t OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A TOUR FROM BENGAL to PERSIA «\lN THE YEARS 1786-7. JLAlft^v5r he remains OF THE CELEBRATED PALACE OF PERSEPOLISi AND OTHER INTERESTING EVENTS. By WILLIAM FRANCKLIN, ensign on the hon. company's bengal establishment j lately returned from persia. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND, M i>CC to the richt honourable CHARLES EARL CORNWALLIS, knight of the most noble order of the garter> governor-general op india, &c. &c. &c. THIS WORK is respectfully dedicated, BY his lordship's most obedient, and most humble servant, CALCUTTA, November 13, 1788. « THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. HE Author of the following Pages being a fupernumerary Officer on the Bengal Eftablifli-ment, and defirous of employing his leifure time, by improving himfelf tin the knowledge of the Perfian language, as well as to gain information of the hiftory and manners of the nation, obtained a furlough for that purpofe; from which circumftance thefe O b s e rv-Ations arofe. The The advantages he obtained during a refidence of eight months at Shirauz, by being domefticated with the natives, and living entirely as one in a family, will, he hopes, make this attempt acceptable to his readers, and gratify their curiofky with refpect to many of their manners and cuftoms, which have not heretofore been fo fully made known by other Euro*-pean travellers. The ideas contained in that part of the Work relative to the celebrated ruins of Perfepolis, arofe to the Author as he viewed them:—a much more perfect and accurate account might have been given-of them, had his fituation afforded him him the means of procuring the necefTary implements, and aflift-ance, for taking views, and raea-furements upon the fpot. The latter part of his Remarks, containing the Revolution at Buf-fora, and the Tranfadtions relative to the fituation of Perfia from the deceafe of Nadir Shah until the present year, will probably be deemed moft interefting to the Public, as they ferve in fome meafure to fill up a chafm in the hiftory of Perfia from that period. This confidera-tion, added to the requeft of many of his partial friends, firft fuggefted to him the idea of a publication, and gave him confidence that it would prove acceptable to his country- countrymen. Should it be fo fortunate as to meet with their approbation, the author will deem him-felf amply repaid for the fatigue, and other inconveniencies he has experienced in the courfe of the expedition. WILLIAM FRANCKLIN. OBSERVATIONS MADE' ON A TOUR FROM BENGAL to PERSIA. In the Years 1786-7* /"\N the 17th of February 1786, I embarked on board the fhip Yarmouth, Captain Greenly commander, for Bombay, in my way to Perfia, having obtained a furlough from the Council, for three years. On the 7th of March we left the Sailed, pilot.—2 2d March made the land, about 12 o'clock P. M.—ran paft our port in the night about twelve B miles: miles23d, all day nearly becalmed ; anchored at fix in the evening :—24th, at day light, made fail; at feven faw the flag-ftaff at Point de Galle ; at twelve, went on more. Point de Galle is a fmall fort, fituated on the fouth-weft fide of the ifland of Ceylon, belonging to the Dutch Haft India Company, and has a commandant and a fmall military force ; the commandant is fubjedl to the orders of the governor of Columbo, the chief refidency on the fame ifland; the inhabitants, excepting the Dutch, are a mixture of Malabars and native Portuguefe; but great numbers of the latter, efpecially of the lower clafs of people. There is a tolerable tavern here, the only one in the place; 6 the the living very cheap. Here is little trade at this place, excepting on account of the Dutch Company. Topazes, amethyfls, and other precious Hones, are found on the ifland of Ceylon, and brought here for fale; but it is dangerous to purchafe them, when fet, without being fkilled in thofe commodities ; the people who fell them being very expert in making the falfe (tones appear like true ones, by colouring them at the bottom. No kind of fpice, nutmegs, or any other rarities for which this ifland is fo celebrated, are to be met with at this place; nor did we, on our approach to the ifland, perceive any of thofe odoriferous gales defcribed by travellers, as exhaling from the cinnamon and other fpices with B 2 which which this ifland abounds. The harbour is circular; at the entrance of it lie many rocks, jufl above the furface of the water, which make it very dangerous for ltrange fhips to go in, without a pilot; the waves beat with amazing violence againft the fortifications. Along, and almofi all around the harbour, are the country-houfes of the inhabitants, which have a pleafing effect to the eye; the road to thefe, by land, is through a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which forms an agreeable made. However, this place mufl be very unhealthy, as very high hills lie clofe behind the houfes, and exhale noxious vapours both morning and evening, which make it very precarious to the inhabitants in point of health ; they are are in general fickly, but particularly Europeans. I obferved, in the courfe of a few hours flay on more, feveral people whofe legs were fwelled in a moft extraordinary manner; this the natives account for, from the badnefs of the water, and the vapours which arife from the adjoining hills. I have heard that the inhabitants of Malacca are liable to the fame difeafe, and from fimilar caufes. Fifh is to be had here in great plenty; poultry of all kinds is very fcarce; the fruits are chiefly plantains, pine apples, and pumple nofes; the cocoa nuts are alfo in great plenty and very good; the bread is tolerable, but the butter execrable, it being little better than B 3 train train oil; and indeed this is the cafe in all the Dutch fettlements, and moft other foreign ones, the French and Englifh excepted.—We flept on more that night; and, not being able to fell any part of the cargo, the next morning went on board, and failed immediately.—On the 29th faw the land a little to the eaftward of Cape Comorin, and the 31ft of March came to anchor in the roads of Anjengo, where we found the Company's fhip the Duke of Mont-rofe, waiting for a cargo of pepper. —On the 1 ft of April went on fhore at day-light, and returned on board in the evening. Anjengo is a fmall fort and Eng-lifh refidency, the firft that you arrive at upon the Malabar coaft from Cape Cape Comorin: the inhabitants are Malabars and native Portuguefe, mixed. It is reported to be one of the firft places in India for intelligence, and the Englifli have received great fervice from it in that refpect during the late war; it would be ftill more advantageous if the road to Europe by way of Suez was open, but that has been for fome time mut up, on account of fome unhappy differences. At Anjengo there is a pod to feveral parts of India; this is but lately efta-blifhed.—On the 2d of April, failed; 6th, faw a fhip at anchor in Cocheen roads, which we could not enter, being driven off by the mofl violent gale of wind I ever experienced; it lafled fix and thirty hours without ceffation, the fea running moun-B 4 tains tains high. Fortunately, the fhip received no damage, excepting the lofs of the main yard, which was broken in two. On the 8th we found ourfelves, by obfervation, to the northward of our port: on the 9th, came to anchor in Cocheen roads, and went on more immediately. Cocheen is a large fettlement belonging to the Dutch Eaft India Company. It is very populous, and a place of great trade; the inhabitants are a mixture of a variety of Eaflern nations, being compofed of Malabars, Armenians, Perfians, Arabians, Jews, Indians, and native Portuguefe. The Jews occupy a whole village, a little to the weftward of the town ; they live feparate from the the reft of the inhabitants : I went into feveral of their houfes, and could not help obferving, in this people, a ftriking peculiarity of features, different from any 1 had ever feen; a refemblance feemed to run through the whole, as if they were all of one family: they feldom or ever marry out of their own tribe, by which the likenefs is pieferved, from father to fon, for a long time. I am told there is the fame fimilarity of features to be obferved amongft the Jews of Amflerdam in Holland, and other parts of Europe. This certainly ferves to diflinguifh them more as an original people than any other. They have a good fynagogue here, and are lefs opprefTed, and have more liberty, than in mofl other parts of the Eaft. The rajah Of of Cocheen refides here, but lives in an indifferent ilate, being fo much opprefled by the nabob Tippoo on the one hand, and the Dutch on the other, as to have little or nothing left for himfelf. He is a Gentoo. Cocheen, in former times, was a' place of confiderable celebrity, and was one of the places pitched upon by the firfl Portuguefe fettlers in the Eaft, after the difcovery of the paffage round the Cape of Good Hope by Vafco de Gama ; but that people have now very little left of the vaft wealth and power they formerly enjoyed; a revolution of three centuries has reduced them below mediocrity in the general fcale of European adventurers. The fort is a very large one, and very well fortified on the land fide ; towards wards the fea not fo well, but it is fecured by a very dangerous bar, which will not admit of mips coming nearer the more than three or four miles. There are fome regular Dutch troops in the garrifon, and a few native militia; there was alfo here part of a French regiment, which the Dutch borrowed during the late war. Provifions of every kind are to be had here in the greateft' plenty. The ioth failed; on the 15th, we came to anchor in Tellicherry roads ; 16th, having received a very polite invitation from my friend and fchool-fellow Mr. Ince, I went on more, and fpent fe-veral very pleafant days with him. Among other places I faw in and about Tellicherry, I had a view view of the fortifications, or rather of the regular lines drawn round Tellicherry, for the defence of the place againft the Nabob Hyder Ali, during the late war. Thefe lines are exceedingly ftrong; they take in a fpace of about three miles and a half in circumference, and are well defended by batteries and redoubts; a river runs parallel to the weftern angle, which breaking off from thence runs among the hills: here the Englifh troops fuftained a fevere liege for feveral years, againft the army of Hyder, under the command of Sadik Khan; however, on the arrival of Major Abingdon with a reinforcement from the Bombay fettlement, the garrifon made a moft fpirited and fuccefsful fally, in which having defeated the enemy and and killed great numbers of them, they at length compelled them to raife the fiege; obtaining, at the fame time, a confiderable booty of horfes, tents, and elephants. The General of the enemy was danger-oufly wounded and taken prifoner, and died a few days after, of that and a broken heart, at Tellicherry. I am informed that if he had lived and returned to the prefence, he would have been cafhiered, as the Nabob Hyder had fet his heart on the reduction of the place. He lies buried clofe to the fort of Tellicherry; a tomb has been erected to him, in which lamps are continually burning, which many Muflulmen vifit out of refpect to the memory of the deceafed. The lines in fome parts appear rather out out of order, as they have not been thoroughly repaired fince the fiege of the place, and I am inclined to think a great number of troops would be requilite for their defence againft a refolute enemy, owing to their great extent; they are now repairing throughout, as the government entertain an idea of the importance of the place, which is certainly confiderable, in cafe of a war with Hyder, as by his being in pofleflion of it he might greatly injure the other fettlements of the Englifh on the Malabar Coaft. The garrifon of Tellicherry con-fifts generally, in time of peace, of one battalion of fepoys, a company of artillery, and fometimes a company of European infantry; they are are alfo able to raife about three thoufand native militia. The view of the country round Tellicherry is very pleafant, confifting of irregular hills and vallies. The boundaries of the Englifh are terminated by the oppofite fide of the river, and at a very little diftance is a ftrong fortrefs of the Nabob Hyder; if the lines were once to be forced, the place would foon fall, the fort of Tellicherry itfelf having no kind of defence. Tellicherry is efteemed by all who refide there, to be one of the healthieft places in India, Europeans feldom dying there; it is alfo much reforted to by conva-lefcents: the fea produces plenty of very fine oyfters, and provifions of all kinds are to be had in abundance. I ob- I obferved, in the Company's garden, the pepper vine, which grows in a curious manner, and fomething fimilar to the grape; the pepper on it, when fit to gather, appears in fmall bunches; it is in fize fomething larger than the head of a fmall peas the pepper, however, for the Company's mips cargoes, is brought from fome diflance in the country. Tellicherry alfo produces the coffee tree. On the 28th in the evening we failed, and on the 29th we anchored in the roads of Goa, off the Fort Alguarda* Goa is a large city, and was once populous; it is the capital of the Portuguese fettlements on this fide the the Cape of Good Hope; it is the refidence of a Captain General lent from Portugal, who lives in great fplendour. The city ftands upon the banks of a river of the fame name, about twelve miles diftant from the entrance of the harbour: the view up this river is truly delightful, the banks on either fide are adorned with churches, and country feats of the Portuguefe, inter-fperfed with groves and vallies; the river has feveral pleafing openings as it winds along, its banks are low, but the hills behind rife to an amazing height, and add grandeur to the fpectacle, greatly tending alfo to beautify the pro-fpect. The city of Goa itfelf is adorned with many fine churches, magnificently decorated; and has C feveral feveral handfome convents; the church of Saint Auguftine is a noble ftructure, and is adorned in the infide by many fine pictures; it Hands on the top of a hill, from whence you have an extenfive view of the city and adjacent country: it is a circumflance that has always been obferved, and very juftly, that the Portuguefe have ever chofen the fpots for their convents and churches in the moft delightful iituations. I have obferved it in the Brazils, and the inhabitants of Goa have by no means failed in attention to this point, all their public buildings being well fituated. The body of this church is fpacious, and the grand altar-piece nnifhed in the mod elegant flyle. The building of the choir is of Gothic archi- architecture, and therefore of antiquity. This church has a convent adjoining to it, in which live a fet of religious monks, of the order of St. Auguftine: fome of the brothers of this convent have given popes and cardinals to the Roman See, as appears by their portraits which are hung up in a neat chapel dedicated to St. Auguftine, the patron of the order. Adjoining to this church is a convent of religious women, who have taken the veil, and are therefore prohibited from all kind of intercourfe with the world: thefe chiefly confift of the daughters and nieces of the Portuguefe inhabitants of the place; and a fum of money is generally given with them, on their entrance into the convent. A little lower, on the C 2 declivity declivity of the hill, (lands another church, dedicated to the Bon Jefus, in which is the chapel of Saint Francifco de Xaviere, whofe tomb it contains: this chapel is a mofl Tomb of St. fuperb and magnificent place; the Francifco de Xaviere. tomb of the faint is entirely of fine black marble, brought from Lif-bon ; on the four fides of it the principal actions of the life of the Saint are mod elegantly carved in baflb relievo; thefe reprefent his converting the different nations to the Catholic faith: the figures are done to the life, and mofl admirably executed: it extends to the top in a pyramidical form, which terminates with a coronet of mother-of-pearl. On the fides of this chapel are excellent paintings, done by Italian mafters; the fubjecls chiefly from from fcripture. This tomb, and the chapel appertaining to it, muft have coft an immenfe fum of money; thePortuguefejuftlyefteem it the greater! rarity in the place. In the valley below is another convent for young ladies who have not taken the veil; out of this convent the Portuguefe and others who go there may marry: fome of the ladies have fmall portions, others none. As far as I could learn, the ceremony obferved on taking out one of thefe ladies is as follows: When a gentleman, after vifiting often at the grate, (hall have chofen one to whom he wifhes to pay his addrefTes, an exchange of rings between the parties is firft. made; after which the lover is permitted to vifit his millrefs in the C 3 convent, convent, in the prefence of one of the matrons; then if he Hill holds his purpofe, he is obliged to make a folemn promife of marriage, in the prefence of the archbiihop of the place; which being done, he may take her away whenever he pleafes: after which the archbiihop marries them. It is, however, to be obferved, that the lover, whoever he is, muft firil make profef-lion of the Roman Catholic per-fuafion, otherwife no connection would be allowed. I faw three of the young ladies, who were really fine girls, and could not help making fome reflections on their unhappy fituation ; fhut up in a wretched convent, where they mud pine away their youth, unlefs capricious chance mould befriend 6 them them in the appearance of a huf-band: and being deprived of the company of men, for whom they were formed to grace fociety and create affection, they muft, if capable of reflection, think them-felves moft unhappy.* The Captain-General of Goa is alfo Commander in Chief of all the Portuguefe forces in the Eaft Indies. They have here two regiments of European infantry, three legions of fepoys, three troops of native light horfe, and a militia; in all, about five thoufand men. Goa is at prefent on the decline, and in little or no eftimation with the country powers; indeed their bigotry and fuperftitious attachment to their faith is fo general, that the C 4 in- inhabitants, formerly populous, are now reduced to a few thinly inhabited villages; the chief part of whom have been baptized; for they will not fufFer any MufTulman or Gentoo to live within the precincts of the city; and thefe few are unable to carry on the huibandry or manufactures of the country. The court of Portugal is obliged to fend out annually a very large fum of money, to defray the current ex-pences of the government; which money is generally fwallowed up by the convents and foldiery. If other meafures are not purfued, Goa muft, in a very few years, fink to nothing: though it is evident that the internal decay of the government has been occafioned by the opprefllon and bigotry of the priefts. priefts, and the expulfion of fo many ufeful hands ; yet the court of Portugal cannot be prevailed upon to alter its meafures, although the nourifhing fituation of the Eng-lifh and other European Settlements (and of which one caufe is certainly the mild and tolerant principles adhered to in points of religion, provided it interferes not with the affairs of government) is continually before their eyes. The Nabob Tippo has lately fhewn an inclination to attack them, but was fuddenly called off by the Mar-ratas: the Portuguefe much fear he will return ; and mould he, there is little doubt but that the place will furrender to him. The glorious times of Albuquerque are now no more; power and wealth have have long fince taken their flight from the difcoverers of the Eafl! There was formerly an inquifition at this place, but it is now abolifh-ed; the building Hill remains, and by its black outfide appears a fit emblem of the cruel and bloody tranfactions that pafTed within its walls! Provifions are to be had at this place in great plenty and perfection; the Captain General lives in great flate; he is a well-bred man, and fond of the company of the Englifli, whom he treats with great hofpitality.—24th, failed; May 13th faw the light-houfe at Bombay, about nine in the morning. The ifland of Bombay is in the pofTeflion of the Englifh Eafl India Com- Company; it is fituated on the Coafl of Conkan, in Lat. .9 North, and Long. 72. 38. Eafl; it was granted, as part of the marriage portion with the Infanta of Portugal, to Charles II. The harbour is capable of containing three hundred fail of fhips, with the greatefl fafety: there is alfo a moll excellent dock, in which fhips of his Majefly's fqua-dron, and others, are repaired, refitted, and completely equipped for fea. They build alfo here all forts of vefTels; and the workmen in the yard are very ingenious and dexterous, not yielding to our befl fhip-wrights in England. This ifland is very beautiful, and as populous for its fize as any in the world; merchants and others coming to fettle here from the different parts parts of the Deckan, Malabar, and Coromandel; as well astheGuzerat country: amongft thofe of the latter place, are many Perfee families; thefe are defcended from the remains of the ancient Gubres, or worfhippers of fire: mofl of the country merchants, as well as the menial fervants of the ifland, are of this faith. They are very rich, and have in their hands the management of all mercantile affairs. Their religion, as far as I could gain any information, is much corrupted from the ancient worfhip; they acknowledge that feveral Hindoo forms and ceremonies have crept in amongft them, probably in compliance to the natives, in order to conciliate their affections. I have heard it obferved, however, that the the Hindoo religion does, in itfelf, bear fome analogy to the ancient Perfian worfhip: it feems their The facred book, the Zend, which is faid to have fjeen written by their celebrated prophet Zerdufht (called by us Zoroafter), is at prefent only a copyofafewcenturies; which mult, of courfe, invalidate its authenticity; as that prophet, according to the Perfian hiflorians, lived more than three thoufand years ago; and indeed it is an indifputable fact, that what religious books were in being at the time of the Grecian con-quefts of that country, were carefully collected and burnt, by the exprefs orders of Alexander, and were totally deftroyed at the fubfe-quent conquefts of that country by the Saracens: at which period alfo alfo happened the introduction of the Mahomedan religion. By thefe means their religion and language underwent a total change, the very traces' of both which have long fince difappeared, as is evident by the many fruitlefs efforts made to decypher thofe inscriptions flill discernible on the walls of Perfepolis, bearing not the leafl analogy to any character now exifting. Hence it may be inferred, that what is now given as the ancient character and language of this celebrated people, is no more than an invention of a later date, and there remains not a probability that their real Zend will ever beknown. The ifland of Bombay is about eight miles in length, and twenty in circumference: the mofl remarkable able natural curiofity the ifland produces is a fmall fifli; this fifli, according to the description of a gentleman who has feen it, and from whom I received my information, is in form fomewhat like a mufcle, about four inches long, and has upon the top of its back, and near the head, a fmall valve, on the opening of which you dif-cover a liquor of a flrong purple colour, which, when dropped on a piece of cloth, retains the hue. It is found chiefly in the months of September and October; and it is obferved the female fifli has not this valve, which diftinguiflics the fexes. It is not improbable to fup-pofe that this fifli is of the fame nature as the ancient Murex or fhell fifl), by which the Romans attained attained the art of dyeing to fuch perfection; and is iimilar to that found formerly on the coafls of Tyre. The Company's forces at this Prefidency confiil of eight battalions of fepoys, a regiment of European infantry, and a corps of European artillery and engineers. During the late long and very fevere war, the Bombay troops have diftinguifhed themfelves in a peculiar manner, and the campaign of Bedanore, and the lieges of Tellicherry and Mangalore, will long remain teflimonials of high military abilities, as well as of their bravery and patience under fevere duty. The breed of flieep on this ifland is very indifferent, and all the necefTaries of life are much dearer than in any other part of India. India. A work on this ifland is worthy of obfervation; it is a caufeway on the fouthern part, about a mile in length, and forty feet in breadth, eight of which on each fide are of folid ftone ; the remainder in the centre is filled up with earth, a cement of clay, and other materials; the whole forming fuch a body as will endure for many ages. This work keeps up the communication with the other parts of the ifland during the fea-fon of the Monfoon, which would otherwife overflow it, and caufe infinite damage. Dec. 13th, after being detained feven months at this ifland, for want of a paflage, I at length embarked on board an Arabian fhip, D bound bound for Buffora, in company with Captain Mitchell and Lieuts. James and Curry, of the Madras military eftablifnment, who were on their way to Europe over land. We had on board an exact epitome of Afia, being a collection of Armenians, Perfians, Arabians, Ethiopians, Jews, Greeks, and Indians, who created as much confufion of tongues as at the building of the tower of Babel. On the 24th, in the evening, we faw Cape Rofal-gate j and on the ift of January, 1787, came to anchor in the harbour of Mufcat: the entrance into this harbour is truly pic-turefque; it has a bold more, with a range of high mountains extending about fixty miles in length from Cape Rofalgate (which is oppofite the the Scindian Gulph), to Mufcat, and forms a very grand natural profpect; the ruggednefs of the rocks marking very characterifti-cally the country of Arabia. The inner harbour is guarded by two forts, very indifferently fituated. Mufcat itfelf is a place of confider-able trade, as well with the Arabian and Perfian Gulphs, as with Surat, Bombay, and the Coafts of Malabar and Coromandel. The town, as is ufual in mod Eaftern countries, is badly built, and the ftreets very narrow; they have, however, a good and well furnifh-ed bazar, roofed at the top; the ilreets crofs each other at right angles, and to each is allotted its particular merchant!ife for fale. Mufcat lies in lat. 23. 15. N. oppo-D 2 fite fite to the Gulph of Ormuz, and is governed by an Iraaura, or independent prince, over the province of Oman, of which Mufcat is the capital. This province of Oman is a part of Yemen, or Arabia Felix; the Imaum refides at a diflance of two days journey inland, where he lives in fplendour; his VakeelSheick Khulfaun received us with great civility. The whole country round this place is one continued folid rock, without a blade of grafs, or any kind of verdure to be feen; but this barrennefs the natives affirm to be amply recompenfed by the fertility and beauty of the inland country; as indeed it ought to be. The reflection of the fun from thefe rocks muft necefTarily caufe intenfe and almofi infupportable heats, 6 which which during the fummer feafon are fo great, that all the natives, who are able, retire inland as foon as they commence; this, added to the fatal effects of the fmall-pox, for which they have no cure, being ignorant of the application of medicine, caufes the people in general to be afflicted with diforders in their eyes; fo much fo, that you Scarcely meet one perfon out of three, who has not vifibly fuffered from either of the caufes above mentioned.—Several Gentoo merchants refide here, for the convenience of trade; alfo a broker on the behalf of the Englifh Eafl India Company; but the government will not admit (though often urged to it) of any European factory being efta-blifhed. The police in Mufcat is D 3 excel- excellent.—On the 25th of January, Captain James Mitchell, our fellow-paflenger, died, to the great grief of us all: we interred him the fame day, on more, at Mufcat; a Dutch fhip lying in the harbour, commanded by Captain Stewart, faluted the corpfe on going on more with nine guns, as did alfo an Engliili fnow, there at the fame time. His funeral was as decently conducted as circumftances would admit, and every attention pofhble was paid to his remains. On the 26th we failed for Buflbra. On the 4th of February, we alfo loft Lieutenant Thomas James, another of our companions; whofe body we committed to the deep. Shortly after, Mr. Curry and myfelf, who were the only two remaining, fell fick of violent fevers, which which lafted near a month, and reduced us fo much, that we had reafon to expect the fame fate. On the 28th of February, arrived at Abu Shehr. Lieutenant Curry and myfelf went on more, where we were received by Mr. Galley, the Company's refident at that place. Abu Shehr is a fmall fea-port town on the coaft of Perfia, and is under the government of a Sheick, who is tributary to Shirauz. The Engliili Eafl India Company have a factory here, but I believe little bufinefs is carried on, owing to the ruinous date of Perfia; caravans come frequently to this place from Shirauz, and bring the commodities of that city, which are exported to different parts of India. On the 9th of March, my good friend, D 4 Lieutenant Lieutenant Curry, quitted me, and proceeded to Buflora: our parting was painful to us, as we had lately experienced many trying fcenes together, which cemented our friendfhip; but our Separate destinations made it ne-cefTary.—An opportunity offering Shortly afterwards of proceeding to Shirauz, I eagerly embraced it, although not yet quite recovered from my fever, and accordingly determined to Set out with a cafila or caravan, juft then on the point Set out for of departure. On the 15th of March, Shirauz. ■, ^ m -i I left Abu Shehr: our cafila con-fifted of about thirty mules, and twenty or thirty horfes ; thefe and camels being the only mode of travelling made ufe of in this country : cur firft day's march was about four four furfengs, or Sixteen Englifh miles ; the road at Setting out lay over a barren plain, but the latter part of the way coming to Some verdure, we halted at a place called Checanduck. The Perfian furfeng is the irctfoHTcu/yx Parafanga of the Greeks, and is equal in measurement to nearly four Englifh miles. The 16th, we travelled four furfengs, the mofl part in the night, and arrived about eight o'clock in the morning, near Berazgoon, a con-fiderable and populous village, fur-rounded by a brick wall, and flanked with turrets; under the dominion, and dependent of, Shirauz.—Halted that day and the next, for the pur-pofe of Shoeing the horSes and mules belonging to the cafila, preparatory to our aScending the moun- mountains, which we were now approaching. 18th, Moved at four in the morning, and about eight encamped near the village of Dow-lakie, diftance three furfengs. 19th, Moved at four in the morning, and a little after fix entered the narrow pafs which is the road to the four mountains, and is exceedingly difficult, from the great number of loofe ftones. At nine encamped at fome diftance on the other fide of the village of Dowlakie, at the foot of the firft mountain. We reckoned this day's journey three furfengs. The heat of thefe three laft days was exceflive; but they told me it would foon be changed to a piercing cold. 20th, Marched at four in the morning, and began to to afcend the firft mountain, which is very high, and the road almofi impaflablc, from the vafl number of large loofe Hones that had fallen down on each fide in the way: near two miles of the latter part of the afcent is almofi perpendicular, and fo very narrow as only to admit of one perfon or beaft of burden palling at a time: the fcene was truly difagreeable and even dangerous, from the fleep precipices, and frequent flipping and falling of the horfes and mules ; our only means of fafety on one fide depending on a fmall parapet wall, about three feet high ; on the other the mountain towering up into the clouds flrikes the beholder with an awful dread; a broad and rapid river runs at the bottom, which by its roaring adds adds to the terrific grandeur of the fcene. Having at length attained the fummit, we were furprifed by the appearance of a level extenlive plain; whereas, after climbing fuch a height, we might naturally have expected a defcent. This plain is about four furfengs, or fixteen miles, in extent; it is fituated between the mountains, and abounds in game,particularly thered-legged partridge, which we faw in great abundance.—A little after nine we encamped at the village of Khiflit; we here began to experience a fen-fible alteration in the weather. At Dowlakie, in the valley below, we were almofi fcorched to death with heat; whereas the air on the top of this mountain, and the plain of Khiflit, is very fharp and piercing; diftance diftance three furfengs. 21 ft, Being the Perfian feftival of the Nooroze, or New Year's Day, we halted. In the ancient times of Perfia this day ufed to be celebrated with great joy and feftivity throughout the empire, and has fince been kept as fuch under the Mahomedan government. The people of the cafila made themfelves as merry as their circumftances would admit of; and although in general the food of thefe people is no more than a few dates and butter-milk, yet on this occafion, the Cheharwadar, or maf-ter of the cafila, fent to the neighbouring village, and procured fome mutton, which he gave to his men, and partook with them of a comfortable pilau. 22d, Moved at four in the morning ; about fixafcended the the fecond mountain, which is {till higher than the former, but the road not fo dangerous: we arrived, about nine, at the village of Coma-rige: at this place the Rah Dar, or toll-gatherer, demanded one toman (about thirteen rupees), as a toll, although the cuftom for every paf-fengcr, whether European, Jew, or Armenian, is only one piaftre, which is equal to one rupee. He alleged that I was a Feringy (Chriftian), and therefore ought to pay more: as I had no refource, I mould have been obliged to comply, had not the mafter of the cafila oppofed the impofition, and threatened to complain on our arrival at Shirauz; on which the toll-gatherer defifted. This day we travelled three furfengs. 23d, Moved at four in the morning; about about nine arrived at the city of Kazeroon, diftance five furfengs. 24th, Proceeded at five, and at half paft eight arrived at the foot of the third mountain, fituated on the confine of the plain, where the city of Kazeroon is built; diftance three furfengs. 25th, Moved at four in the morning, and began to afcend the third mountain, which although not fo high and fteep as the two former, yet is fufficiently fo to make the afcent uneafy and difficult; a great part of the road on one fide is made of mafons work entirely, the materials hewn out of the mountain : it has a parapet wall of about three feet high, like the former: its afcent is winding. About eight o'clock we arrived in a moft delightful valley, by an eafy and gentle gentle defcent; entirely covered with a fpecies of the oak and birch, which being Situated between two high mountains, is extremely plea-fant; the air began now to be piercing cold, and we perceived the fnow lying very thick on the mountain before us, which we were to pafs the next day; proceeded on through the valley, and encamped about nine o'clock at the foot of the fourth and laft mountain, in our journey to Shirauz; diftance travelled this day three furfengs. 26th, Marched at two in the morning, and began to afcend the mountain, which thq Perfians call the Peera Zun, or the old woman, by way of distinction. This is higher than all the former, and near twelve miles in length; we were near five hours in in gaining the fummit, when a profpedt opened to our light, Scarcely to be equalled in beauty, nor can imagination well conceive a more delightful one; although we beheld it whilft the ruggednefs of winter was not yet well worn ofF, Hill the great quantity of wood on its fide denoted it to be a mofl delightful place for a fummer relidence ; the view from the top is mofl Strikingly romantic, the three preceding mountains feeming beneath your feet; the fummit is covered with fnow, and in many places where the rain had fallen, was ice of confiderable thicknefs. Below, on each lide, we beheld the vallies all opening to the beauties of fpring, well watered by running llreams, the great lake on the plain of Ka-E zeroon zeroon appearing in its full extent. I cannot but confefs, that the fatigues of the former part of the way were amply made up by the de-lightfulnefs of this profpedt, the fharp clear air giving an increafe of cheerfulnefs and hilarity to my fpi-rits. By a fleep defcent we gained the plain below in about half an hour, and at nine o'clock encamped near the village of Defterjin.—This day we travelled four furfengs and a half. 27th, Moved at four in the morning; at a little after eight, arrived at the village of Khoon Zine-oon 1 near this village runs a very pleafant river, which extends to Shirauz. Mr. Niebuhr has laid this down as the Rodheuna, probably from the people who gave him his information, calling it Rood Rboona, as that that name in Perfian implies a iftream, or river ; the natives of the place mentioning it by the appellation of Rood Khoona Zineoon, or the river of Zineoon. 28th, Moved off at four, and at half paft nine arrived at a caravanferai in ruins, near the village of Chinar Rehadar. This day we travelled four furfengs. 29th, Moved a little after five, and at nine arrived in fafety, by the bleffing of God, at the city of Shirauz, the place of my destination, four furfengs. Shirauz, the capital of Farfiftan, shirauz. or Perfia Proper, is Situated in a valley of great extent and furprifing fertility; this valley is twenty-fix miles in length, and twelve in breadth, and is furrounded on all E 2 fides fides by very high mountains: it lies, according to Mr. Niebuhr, in Latitude. 290 30' 31", about a hundred and ninety-fix miles to the North Eafl of Abu Shehr. The purity of the air of thjs place has at all times been celebrated, and with great juftice. The city in circumference is one furfeng and fixty meafured paces; the fortifications, confidering the country, are tolerably good; a wall extends quite round the city, five and twenty feet high, and ten thick, with round towers at the diftance of eighty paces from each other. Shirauz has a mofl excellent dry ditch around it, the work of the late Vakeel Kerim Khan; it is fixty feet in depth, and twenty in breadth, and would alone, ex-clufive of the other works, enable the the cicy to hold out a long time againft any power in Perfia, where artillery is but little known, and lefs ufed. The city of Shirauz has fix gates, of which the following are the names: ift, Derwaza Bag Shah; 2d, Derwaza Shah Meerza Hamza; 3d, Derwaza Sadi, fo called from its leading to the tomb of that celebrated poet; 4th, Derwaza Cuf-fub Khlna, adjoining to the nefh-market; 5th, Derwaza Shadai'e ; 6th, Derwaza Kazeroon, leading to that city: each of thefe gates has an appointed guard allotted to it, of one hundred men ; and four Khans or officers, who every morning and evening attend at the citadel in order to pay their compliments to the Khan, or in his abfence to the Beg-lerbcg. It is the duty of thefe E 3 guards guards to prevent all perfons departing from the city who have not permiulon fo to do ; and if any perfon, obnoxious to government, efcapes, the officer's head anfwers for it. I was frequently flopped by them in going out, before I obtained an order from the government to have free egrefs and regrefs whenever I pleafed. The gates of the city are fhut at funfet, and opened at funrife, during which periods no perfon is permitted to pafs in or out. Within the city, at the upper end, nearer! to the gate Bag Shah, {lands the Citadel, which is built of burnt brick, and is a fquare of eighty yards circumference, flanked with round towers, and encompaffed with with a dry foSTe of the fame breadth and depth as that of the city; this is called by the Perfians the Ark, and is alfo the work of Kerim Khan; here Jaafar Khan, the pre-fcnt pofTeiTbr of Shirauz, refides ; it alfo ferves occafionally as a ftate prifon. At the door of the Ark is a painting, done in very lively colours, reprefenting the combat between the celebrated Perfian hero Roftum, and Deeb Sifeed, or the White Demon. The ftory is taken from Ferdoufi's Shah Nama, and the figures are at full length, but ill proportioned. Oppofite to the citadel, in a large handfome fquare, is a gallery where the Khan's mu-lic, confiding of trumpets, kettle drums, and other indruments,plays regularly at funrife and funfet. E 4 When When the Khan is in camp, or on a journey, thefe are always placed in a tent near him: one fide of this fquare leads to the Dewan Khan, or chamber of audience, and the other opens into a ftreet which leads up to the great mofque. The Dewan Khana is a very handfome building, fituated at the upper end of a large garden, to which you are conducted through an avenue, planted on each fide with the Perfian Chinar tree, a fpecies of the fycamore. Chamber of This chamber is a large building, Audience. , , r . , of an oblong form, with an open front; the infide, about one-third up the wall, is lined with white marble from Tauris, and the ceiling and other parts are ornamented with a beautiful gold enamelled work, in imitation of the Lapis Lazuli; Lazuli: there are feveral pictures in it; two of which, representing the late Vakeel Kerim Khan, and his eldeft fon Abul Futtah Khan, are tolerably well executed; and I was told by the natives that they were good refemblances. In front there are three handfome fountains, with flone bafons, which are constantly playing. In the great fquare before the Citadel is the Tope Khana, or park of artillery: Artillery, it confifls of feveral pieces of cannon mounted on bad carriages, mofl of the guns (which are Spa-nifh and Portuguefe, excepting two Englifh twenty-four pounders) are fo dreadfully honeycombed, that they would certainly burft on the firft difcharge. Shirauz Shirauz has many good bazars and caravanferais : that diftinguifh-ed by the appellation of the Vakeel's bazar (fo called from its being built by Kerim Khan), is by far the handfomeft j it is a long ftreet, extending about a quarter of a mile, built entirely of brick, and roofed fomething in the ftyle of the Piazzas in Covent Garden; it is lofty and well made ; on each fide are the fhops of the tradefmen, merchants, and others, in which are expofed for fale a variety of goods of all kinds: thefe fhops are the property of the Khan, and are rented to the merchants at a very eafy monthly rate. Leading out of this bazar is a fpacious cara-vanferai, of an octagon form, built of brick j the entrance through a hand- liandfome arched gate-way: in the centre is a place for the baggage and merchandife, and on the fides above and below commodious a-partments for the merchants' and travellers; thefe are alfo rented at a moderate monthly fum. About the centre of the above-mentioned bazar is another fpacious caravan-ferai, of a fquare form, the front of which is ornamented with a blue and white enamelled work, in order to reprefent China ware, and has a pleafing effect to the eye. This building is larger than the former, and is. chiefly reforted to by Armenian and other Chriftian merchants ; there are befides fepa-rate bazars in Shirauz, for the different companies of artificers, fuch as goldfmiths, workers of tin, dy-6 ers, ers, carpenters, joiners, hatters, and Shoemakers; thefe confift of long Streets, built very regularly, and roofed, The Jews at Shirauz have a quarter of the city allotted to themfelves, for which they pay a considerable tax to government, and are obliged to make frequent prefents: theSe people are more odious to the Persians than thoSe of any other faith; and every opportunity is taken to oppreSs and extort money from them; the very boys in the ftreet being accuftomed to beat and inSult them, of which treatment they dare not complain. The Indians have a caravanferai allowed them in another quarter of the city, for which they are alfo under contribution. tribution. There is a mint at Shirauz where money is coined in the name of Jaafar Khan, the prefent pofTeiTor, the procefs of which is very fimple, like moft in other places of the Eaft, the gold or filver being laid in a dye fitted for the purpofe, and ftruck with a large hammer, which completes the operation. Here alfo the public Serafs (or money-changers) fet and regulate the exchange of gold and filver. Shirauz is adorned with many Mofque of n r . , , , KerimKhan- fine mofques, particularly that built by the late Kerim Khan, which is a noble one: being very well dif-guifed in my Perfian drefs, I had an opportunity of entering the building unobferved; it is of a fquare fquare form; in the centre is a ftone refervoir of water, made for performing the neceilary ablutions or warnings, previous to prayer; on the four fides of the building are arched apartments allotted for devotions, fome of the fronts of which are covered with China tiles; but Kerim Khan dying before the work was completed, the remainder has been made up with a blue and white enamelled work of the kind before defcribed. Within the apartments, on the walls, on each fide, are engraved various fentences from the Koran, in the Nufkhi character; and at the upper end of the fquare, is a large dome with a cupola at top, which is the particular place appropriated for the devotion of the Vakeel; this is lined throughout out with white marble, ornamented with the curious blue and gold artificial lapis lazuli, and has three large filver lamps fufpended from the roof of the dome: here mullahs or priefts are conftantly employed in reading the Koran. This mofque has very good detached apartments, with places for ablutions and other religious ceremonies; at a little diftance, on the outfide, the late Vakeel had laid the foundation for a range of very handfome buildings, which he defigned to have been occupied by mullahs, der-vifties, and other religious men ; but, dying before the work was brought to perfection, the troubles in Perfia fince that period have prevented any other perfons from fi-nifhing them, and in this imperfect feci: ftate they remain at prefent, much to be regretted; as it would have added greatly to the beauty of the whole. In the centre of the city is another mofque, which the Musjidi Perlians call the Musjidi Nod, or the new mofque; but its date is nearly coeval with the city itfelf, at leaft fince it has been inhabited by Mahomedans: it is a fquare building of a noble fize, and has apartments for prayer on each fide; in them are many infcriptions in the old Cufick character, which of themfelves denote the antiquity of the place; in the centre of the fquare is a large terrace, on which the Perfians perform their devotions, both morning and evening; this terrace is capable of containing upwards of two hundred perfon s, fohs, and is built of flone, raifed two feet and a half high from the ground; there are here two very-large cyprefs trees of an extraordinary height, which the Perfians affirm to have flood the amazing length of fix hundred years: they are called AaftiukMaamiika,or the lover and his miftrefsj and are held by the people in great veneration. The mofque has a garden adjoining to it, and places neceffary for performing ablutions.—In another quarter of the city is a fquare building of a very large fize, formerly a college of confiderable note, where the arts and Sciences were taught; and is the fame as that mentioned by Sir John Chardin, who vifited this city in the lafl century. It is now, however, decaying very fad, but £ there there are Hill mullahs and religious men refiding in it; at pre-fent it goes by the name of Mud-ruffa Khan, or the Khan's college; but literature and the fciences have long Since been neglected at Shirauz, and the prefent fituation of the country does not feem to pro-mife a fpeedy revival. There are places in Shirauz dif-tinguiftied by the name of Zoor Khana, the houfe of Strength or exercife; to which the Perfians refort for the fake of exercifing themfelves. Thefe houfes confifl of one room, with the floor funk about two feet below the Surface of the earth, and the light and air are admitted to the apartment by means of feveral fmall perforated apertures apertures made in the dome. In the centre is a large fquare terrace of earth, well beaten down, fmooth, and even; and on each fide are fmall alcoves raifed about two feet above the terrace, where the muficians and fpectators are feated. When all the competitors are afiembled, which is on every Friday morning by day-break, they immediately flrip themfelves to the waift; on which each man puts on a pair of thick woollen drawers, and takes in his hands two wooden clubs of about a foot and a half in length, and cut in the fliape of a pear; thefe they refl upon each ihoulder, and the mu-fic ftriking up, they move them backwards and forwards with great agility, {lamping with their feet F 2 at at the fame time, and ftraining every nerve, till they produce a very profufe perfpiration. After continuing this exercife about half an hour, the mailer of the houfe, who is always one of them, and is diflinguifhed by the appellation of Pehlwaun, or wreftler, makes a lignal, upon which they all leave off, quit their clubs, and, joining hands in a circle, begin to move their feet very brifkly in union with the mulic, which is all the while playing a lively tune. Having continued this for a conli-derable time, they commence wrell-ling; but before the trial of fkill in this art begins, the mailer of the houfe addrefTes the company in a particular fpeech, in part of which he informs the candidates, that as thev m they are all met in good fellowfhip, fo ought they to depart, and that in the conteft they are about entering into, they mould have no malice or ill-will in their hearts; it being only an honourable emulation, and trial of ftrength, in which they are going to exert themfelves, and not a contentious brawl; he therefox^e cautions them to proceed in good humour and concord: this fpeech is loudly applauded by the whole affembly. The wreftlers then turn to their diverfion, in which the matter of the houfe is always the challenger; and, being accuftomed to the exercife, generally proves conqueror, by throwing each of the company two or three times fuccemvely. I have fometimes, however, feen him meet with his F 3 . equal. equal, efpecially when beginning to grow fatigued. The fpecfators pay each a Shahee, in money, equal to three-pence Englifh, for which they are refrefhed during the diverlion with a calean and coffee. This mode of exercife, I mould fup-pofe, muff contribute to health, as well as add ftrength, vigour, and a manly appearance to the frame. It ftruck me in its manner of execution to bear fome refemblance to the gymnaftic exercifes of the ancients. The Baths in Perfia are very commodious, and well worthy the attention of a flranger; they generally confift of two large apartments, one of which furnifhes an accommodation for undrefling, the other is the bath j on the fides of the firff. are benches benches of ftone, raifed two feet from the ground, on which are fpread mats and carpets, where the bathers fit to undrefs, and from thence they proceed to the bath through a long narrow paflage. The bath is a large room of an octagon form, with a cupola at top, through which the light and air are admitted; on the fides of this room are fmall platforms of wood raifed about a foot from the ground, on which the people who enter to bathe perform their devotions, a ceremony the Perfians always previoufly obferve: at the upper end of the room is a large bafon or refervoir of water, built of ftone, well heated by means of ftoves made at the bottom, with iron gratings over them; and adjoining is another refervoir F4 of of cold water, of either of which the-bather has his choice. When he comes out of the hot bath, which is generally in the fpace of ten or twelve minutes, the people of the houfe ftand ready to perform the operation of rubbing, and to effect this he is laid at full length on his back, with a pillow to fupport his head; a brum made of camel's hair is then ufed, which completely rubs off all the dirt the body has contracted. After rubbing fome time, they rinfe the whole body with feveral bafons of warm water, and the perfon is reconducted to the drefling apartment, where he fhifts and dreiles at leifure, receiving a calean to fmoke. The Per-fians are much more Scrupulous fhan any other Eaftern nation in per. permitting foreigners to go into their baths, which if attempted with their knowledge, they prevent. By means however of a fmall prefent, and on account of my living in a Perfian family, and going privately at night, I had always free accefs; although Mr. Jones, a gentleman of the Buffora factory, then rending at Shirauz, going one night, after he was undrefled, was informed by the keeper of the houfe, who underftood he was an European, that he muft drefs him-felf immediately, and quit the place; alleging in excufe, that if it was known he had admitted a Feringy, he mould lofe both his cuftom and reputation, as the bath would thereby be deemed polluted. This is very remarkable, as I am informed that that in Turkey it is quite the contrary, foreigners of all denominations being there allowed to ufe any of the baths whenever their inclinations lead them. During the fpring, the baths in Perfia are decorated in great finery, a cuftom diftinguiihed by the natives The Gui under the name of Gul Reazee (or Reazee, or . ' • Scattering of the Scattering of roles), from the vaft rofes. quantity of thofe flowers ftrewed in the apartments; this ceremony continues a week or ten days, during which time the guefts are entertained with mufic, dancing, coffee, fherbet, &c. and the drefling apartment is decked out with paintings, looking-glafies, Streamers, and other ornaments, at the ex-pence of the matter of the humaum, who who compliments his curtomers on the occafion, though a fmall pre-fent is generally made by them to the muficians. The baths are ufed alternately by men and women every other day, but each fex generally ufe them once a week, or in every ten days at farthefl. The bath built by Kerim. Khan is particularly beautiful; it has for the outer apartment a large hand-fome octagon, to which light is conveyed from the top; on the fides are platforms of ftone, raifed three feet from the ground, each of which has a fquare refervoir of water, and a large fountain, which, by conflantly playing in the centre of the room, renders the place very cool and agreeable; the fides are adorned with pictures and tape- flry; ftry; the inner apartment is lined throughout with Tauris marble, and the dome and fides ornamented with the imitation of the lapis lazuli. To this bath none are admitted but thofe of a higher rank, it being chiefly ufed by the principal Khans, or officers of the army, and their families. In the centre of the city, adjoining to the mofque called Musjidi Nob aforementioned, is a building of a very large fize, which is called by the Perfians the ShahCheraug,or the king's lamp, and is confidered as a place of the greatefl fanctity about Shirauz, being the maufoleum of the brother of one of their Imaums, or heads of the faith; this place is of confiderable antiquity, nor is the exact date of its foundation afcer- afcertained ; but by an extract I procured from the chronicles of the place, it appears to have been repaired by the celebrated Prince Azzud ad Dowlah, Deilemee of the family of Buy ah, who was Ameer al Umrah to one of the Caliphs of the houfe of Abbas, and was a prince of great abilities, learning, and piety. He reigned in the fourth century of the Mahomedan Hijra. Having with great difficulty procured an extract from the chronicles of the place, which are kept in the Mofque, I fhall here infert a tranllation of them ; and it will appear by this extract, that the building was formerly magnificent, but is now going to ruin. The lafl perfon who repaired it was Kerim Khan, Khan, who gave it a complete new covering, but fince his time it has been neglected, and has Suffered much by the rain and other accidents, owing to the very great age of the building; however, there are at prefent fome of the Imaums Zadas, or defcendants from their Imaums, reiiding in it, who are fupported by what little remains of the former ample revenues of the place. Extract from the Adfar Ahumudi, or Chronicles of the Shah Cberag> the Sepulchre of Ahumud Ibn Moufa. " It is related, from the regifter of u moil refpectable chronicles, that