i t i I /.,„/,', fut-ft s//,;/ . /.finar* t ".'ti;,:i, r, /i,/'fii/f//>.<. Wrrr-/h'/f/ç'r .S'ffrct X.:/rSr.,l,-t.,\>-: Jtr.vfl TRAVELS ISTRIA AND DALMATIA, DRAWN UP FROM THE ITINERARY L. F. CASSAS, AUTHOR AN7> KDITQI OF THE PICTURISQUB TRAVELS !N SYRIA, PUESECIA, PAI.ESTIHK, A.NÜ LOWER EGYPT. JOS KP II LAVALLEE, MEMBER OF TUE POLYTECHNIC SOCIETY, OF T II K SOCIETY OF arts and sc I B V C KS OK PARIS, OF t II E AOIUCCLTORAL SOCIETY OF THE SEINE AND MAHN E, iv.'C. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. LONDON: printed for RICHARD PHILLIPS, 71, sr. paul's church YARD, By Barnard 8f SuUzer, Wutcr Lam, I'kct Streci. I 805• 5 / ?40 8S z PREFACE. 1 HE motives which gave rise to the travels of M. CassaB being stated hi the second part of this work, it would he superfluous here to repeat them ; but the Translator cannot refrain from offering a few remarks on the utility of publishing the researches of men of learning and talents, in countries once inhabited bv people, the results of whose character and actions w ill be felt by the latest posterity. The monuments which have been respected for ages, and • whose fragments cover the soil of Italy, afford a sublime subject for meditation. Such remains of antiquity may be compared to the history of great men who have paid the debt of nature ; and at the expiration of twenty centuries, afford examples to succeeding generations, of the vices which disgraced them, or of the virtues by which they have been immortalized. On considering the state of the inhabitants who now occupy the scites of these celebrated ruins, we shall find a subject for reflcc-tion of no inferior importance. The inquisitive mind will derive pleasure* from examining in what degree the present race; of men resemble their celebrated predecessors ; what may have bce'ii the causes of their degradation, or how far their manners, customs, internal policy, or even prejudices, may resemble those of the? nations whom they have succeetled :—in short, by such comparisons it will be ascertained whether the modern inhabitants peissess, as strangers or as heirs, those remains of ancient grandeur by which they are surroundeel. In this respect travels in Istria and Dalmatia cannot fail to be peculiarly interesting.—On the one side these countries present, as it were, the skeletem e>f the Roman empire*; on the Other, particularly in Dalmatia, they exhibit a wandering and pastoral IV PREFACE. horde, who perhaps have sunk progressively from an enlightened to a savage slate. In one part, for example, we behold the splendid remains of the masters of the world; in another a few ignorant tribes, living in obscurity and indigence. Here we see the mouldering columns of the palaces of the Caesars; there the smoaky hut of the tasteless Haiduck ; the spacious baths once appropriated to the use of beauty, and the infectious pallet of straw on which the debased Dalmatian reposes, a stranger to the endearments of Conjugal affection. In the course of his travels Mi Cassas made notes of every remarkable circumstance which came under his observation; and these beiug arranged, corrected, and perhaps enlarged by the French Editor, form the literary part of the present volume. This task, as appears by the title-page, which contains the only information the translator possesses on the subject, devolved on M. Joseph Lavaliee, well known in the annals of modern French literature, and a member of the Polytechnic Society of Paris. rI lie Translator thinks it necessary to state that the Editor of the original volume have made a very considerable addition to the. literary part, by an historical account of the countries through which M. Cassas travelled,—but as this is in a great degree a compilation, and has no reference to the Itinerary, it has nol been ■ included in the present translation, though some interesting passages have been selected from it, relative to the manners and customs of the inhabitants : these however, were drawn up from the notes of M. Cassas, and compared with the accounts of those learned travellers, Spon and Fortis, with which they were found iu substance to correspond. F. W. 1?. IV PREFACE. horde, who perhaps have sunk progressively from an enlightened to a savage state. In one part, for example, we behold the splendid remains of the masters of the world; in another a feu ignorant tribes, living in obscurity and indigence. Here we see the mouldering columns of the palaces of the Caesars; there the smoaky hut of the tasteless Haiduck ; the spacious baths once appropriated to the use of beauty, and tin1 infectious pallet of straw on which the debased Dalmatian reposes, a stranger to the endearments of conjugal affection. In the course of his travels M. Cassas made notes of every remarkable circumstance which came under his observation; and these being arranged, corrected, and perhaps enlarged by the French Editor, form the literary part of the present volume. This task, as appears by the title-page, which contains the only information the translator possesses on the subject, devolved on M. Joseph Laval lee, well known in the annals of modern French literature, and a member of the Polytechnic Society of Paris. The Translator thinks it necessary to state that the Editor of the original volume have made a very considerable addition to the literary part, by an historical account of the countries through which M. Cassas travelled,—but as this is in a great degree a compilation, and has no reference to the Itinerary, it has not been -included in the present translation, though some interesting passages have been selected from it, relative to the manners and customs of the Inhabitants : these however, were drawn up from the notes of M. Cassas, and compared with the accounts 6f those learned travellers, Spon and Fortis, with which they were found in substance to correspond. V. W. is. TRAVELS, IN ISTRIA AND DALMATIA. PART I. PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE ANCIENT AND MODERN HISTORY OF THOSE COUNTRIES, ELUCIDATORY OF THE ORIGIN, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS, OF THEIR r R E s E N T INHABIT AN T S. I STRIA and Pahnalia are in many respects deserving of the serious attention of philosophers and lovers of the arts; and perhaps they have reason to lament the degree of obscurity in which those countries have hitherto been involved. The writers who have touched upon them are known but to very few persons; and the indifference which prevails With regard to their works, doubtlessly arises from the dryness of their details, from the absence of a love of human nature, an essential qualification in a writer who travels through the world for his own instruction, and that of his fellow-men ; and from that deficiency of judgment which neglects the investigation of interesting subjects, in consequence of an attachment to minute and uninteresting description. But our enlightened progress has demonstrated this great truth,—that a book Can only be useful when it has attractions mr the heart; and that, to effect the continuance of a subject Upon the mind of man, it must be founded upon sentiment It is, perhaps, from a want of the knowledge of this fact, that education has so long been rendered difficult, laborious, and unsuccessful, and so many books have been condemned to remain like fixtures on the shelves of libraries ; for there is no one in whom a love for study may not be excited if an appeal be made to the heart; nor is there any science, however abstract, which is not attached to sensibility.— It remains only for genius to discover the thread of attachment, and to employ it with propriety. Istria is a peninsula, the entrance to which advances into the north part of the Adriatic Sea.—Its longitude, from the meridian of Paris, is between 11 degrees 15 min. and 12 degrees 30 mi- cassas-] II a CASSAs's TRAVELS mites; and its latitude is between 44 degrees 55 minutes, and 45 degrees 50 minutes. Dalmatia, by comprising the little isles dependent upon il, forms with different neighbouring parts of Hungary and Turkey, what is called lllyria, an ancient name which the Austrian government has in modern times revived. On the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea, it extends from 12 degrees 10 minutes, to \6 degrees 40 minutes of longitude ; and from 42 degrees 25 minutes, to 45 degrees 5o minutes of latitude. But this apparent extent is subjected to many irregularities, and consequently does not comprise an extensive square surface; though it is more considerable than that of Istria. The latter, of winch we shall first give some idea, projects between tin1 Gulph of Trieste, Sinus TagesliiiHs, and the Gulph of Garnero. It was divided into two parts : the Venetian part to the west, and that of Austria on the east. This last is also called the Littoral, and is under the jurisdiction of the Circle of Austria. —The former has been re-united to Austria by the treaty of Cam-po-Formio, which likewise* ensures to the Emperor the possession of Dalmatia and other principal parts of the State of vehice. Some of the ancient geographers asserted that Istria or Histria formed a part of the ancient lllyria, while others propose, as the limits of those two countries, the river Arsia, now called Arsa, According to these writers, the principal towns of Istria were; Tergeste, /Kgida, Purentium, and Pola, now known by the names of Trieste*, Capo d'Istria, Parenzo, and Pola. Those who give to ancient lllyria a greater extent, comprise Liburnia and Dalmatia. On recurring to ancient times, it is supposed to be discovered, that the Colchidians, who were detached in pursuit of the famous conquerors of the golden fleece, not being able to conic up with them, and apprehending that they would be punished if they returned to their country, (Usembarkeel on the coast, of I stria, fixed their residence there, and formed the* port of Pola ; which name it afterwards bore instead of that of Julia Pietas, by which it was for some time known under the Caesars. It is possible that the religion of [sis, which the Romans found to prevail in istria when they conquered that country, between ihe first and second Punic war, may have given rise, to this pretc l)d< d origin. It is, however, generally agreed, on the authority of Herodotus, that Sesostris penetrate el into Colchis, and, after having subdued it, founded colonies therein. Hence, doubtless, the Colques, or Colches, or Colchidians, might, with the manners, customs, and laws, of the Egyptians, likewise adopt some of their divinities, for example*, Isis. On finding ibis religion established in Istria, it might have; awakened in the Romans the remembrance of the gods of Egypt and Colchis; and the IN I STRIA AND DA LM ATI A. fallacies of fabulous times being called to the aid of minds unaccustomed to the research of truth, might have given rise to the opinion of the above-mentioned expedition of the Colques in pursuit of the Argonauts ; and it might have appeared probable, that they stopped in a place when; the mildness of the climate, the convenience of the port, and the possibility of establishing commercial communications with Greece and Italy, would have afforded them great advantages. However this may have been, the early fate of Istria and Dal-matia does not begin to be elucidated by history till towards the year of the world :)77(>, or 521 after the foundation of Rome. At that period, the Roman Republic made a prelude to universal empire by tin; consolidation of its power in Italy. The siege of Prepane, and the naval victory gained at the Egatian isles by the Consul Lulatius, put an end to the fust Punic war. The necessity, or it may be rather said the ambition, to try their strength with Carthage, had emboldened the Romans to contend for the freedom of the seas : a brilliant degree of success had just crowned the first attempts of Duilius, and victory had steeled their legions against the vicissitudes and dangers of an element so new to them. An advantageous and glorious treaty of peace, by putting a stop to the exertions and courage of Amilcar, terminated a war of twenty-four years ; and the most formidable of any which Rome had sustained since its foundation. Iliero, under the dreaded protection of the Capitol, reposed in peace at Syracuse; Sardinia was subjugated ; the genius of the arts, and of letters, began to display his treasures on the banks of the Tiber; Lucius Andronicus, and soon altci-wards Ma-vius, laid the foundation of that theatre which Terence was destined to erect, and the temple of Janus had just been shut for the second time. Such was the situation of Rome, when the countries in question appeared for the first time in the chain of historic events. From this period, little is known of Istria and Dahnatia till the conquest of the latter country by the legions of L. Canal ins Metellus; at which time the pride of the Republic had so far increased, by the magnitude of its conquests, as to deteriorate insensibly the virtues of the ancient Romans, while the puerile ambition of their descendants gave rise to many unjust wars and easy conquests. But as the proceedings of the ancient republicans in Istria and Dahnatia are sufficiently detailed in history, it would be foreign to the object of this work to enter into a minute account of them. Those countries were successively the theatre of heroism and crimes under Lucullus, Sylla, Marius, China, Carbo, Pom-\Hy, Caesarj and Octavius; till at length, on the division of the b 2 4 CASSAs's TRAVELS Provinces of the Empire, made by Augustus with the Senate, )abnatia was amongst those which fell to the share of the latter. After the translation of the seat of government to Constantinople, Dalmatia became the prey, of the lluns, Goths, Bulgarians, and other hordes; when on the ascent of Jleraclius to the imperial throne, finding himself not sufficiently powerful to de-. liver Dalmatia, he abandoned it partly to the Croatians and partly to the Servians, on condition that they would expel the Huns. Thus the Croats had Liburnia, and that part of Dalmatia which extends as far as the Cettiua, while the Servians obtained possession of the rest; Heraclius retaining only some places which formed what was called the Theme of Dalmatia. These Croats inhabited the mountains of Crapack, which separate Hungary from Poland. At the commencement of the seventh century a party of them, conceiving their limits to be too confined, emigrated as far as the borders of the Adriatic gulph. It was to these people, unknown before in that country, that He-raclius ceded Liburnia ami a part of Dalmatia. The part which they occupied, and from which they expelled the lluns, extended along the coasts of Istria, Liburnia, and Dalmatia, as far as the river Cettina ; and in breadth as far as the Save and the Unn; while they left to the Creek emperors Trau, Spalatro, and some little isles. Being at first governed by live brothers, the son of one of them succeeded to their power under the title of Ban, and commenced the long dynasty of the Bans of Croatia and Dalmatia, whose obscure' reign has pvefl rise to a multitude of contradictions amongst ignorant writers, and produces an inextricable labyrinth to the truth. It is, however, known, that they made a war for seven years against the Franks, who had gained possession of Macedonia, and whence they finally expelled them, under the reign of the Ban Cres<•imir. The Servians or Sclavouians, who are amongst the present inhabitants of these countries, likewise derive their origin from the mountains of Crapack ; and by the concession of Heraclius, they founded a monarchy which extended from the coasts of Dalmatia to the Save and the Danube. But their history is as obscure as that of the Croatians. The Venetians afterwards made some figure in Istria and Dalmatia ; and in 1(2fi<) an aristocratic government was founded by the Doge Peter Gradeuigo, which lasted till 1797-—In this period, however, many wan and insurrections occurred, which, in the minute history of the country, are of much interest, and .some importance.—It will be here, however, necessary to mention, the subjugation of the kingdom of Servia, bv the Bulgarians, as it was by the way of Bosnia in Servia, that the Turks entered Dalmatia, as also to give the readers some idea of the Lscoques, a banditti who are not descended from any particular nation, and in 1stria and d a lm ati a. 5 can be considered only as a body of pirates, who were long the most implacable enemies of the Mussulmans and Venetians.—For upwards of BO years they were subjected to all kinds of oppression and misfortunes, which could be invented by Venetian malignity, and Mahomedau barbarity ; but after they had established themselves at Clissa, they made such well combined and successful sorties, as procured them ample revenge. It appears, from the most authentic accounts of these countries, that the tyranny of the different rulers was always so excessive, from the time of Constantino, that every person in authority became an object of terror to the unfortunate inhabitants, and induced them to emigrate from town to town, till the fugitives became so numerous as to form a distinct class of people in Dal-matia, where they received a particular denomination. Scoco, the real signification of which is emigrant, was the appellation which they acquired; and which, by a corrupt pronunciation, or by translation into other tongues, formed that of Uscoque. These people, as might be expected, bore an implacable enmity against their persecutors ; and when they had assembled together, their numbers became sufficiently formidable to avenge themselves on their tyrants, the Turks, whose territory they constantly ravaged, carrying off their cattle, and committing the most shocking excesses, by way of retaliation for the cruelties exercised upon them when they were dispersed over the country. Such are now the principal inhabitants of Dahnatia ; and although they have for ages been stigmatized as banditti, it will appear, upon philosophical examination, that they are far less criminal than the various nations who have been their oppressors. They have, indeed, been celebrated for their courage ; but it should rather be called Hardihood or audacity ; for the means they employ are not those of valiant warriors.— Their weapons, when they attacked the Turks or Venetians, consisted of a hatchet, a very light musket, and a poinard,or stilletto :—the stillotto for unexpected attacks upon their enemies ; and the hatchet for cutting down those who might fall into their power.—Their great talent was in way-laying or surprising those with whom they contended, and they rarely made a stand against any considerable force ; but were as expert in flight as other troops are in their evolutions. They abhorred both the Turks and Venetians ; and never presented themselves in a body to risk a general action with their troops; but when the latter approached, they concealed themselves, and, after their departure, came out from their retreats. Their expeditions were always determined by their numbers ; and whenever the Emperors employed them either in their armies, or in the defence of the towns, the signal for flight or defection con slantly came from their commander. d CASSAs"s: TRAVELS' The Unfortunate state ofaffairs which desolated Istria and Daf-matia, in 1597, "when the Turks gained possession of Chssa, the fust town whore the Uscoques had fixed, their abode, waster-minated by the Treaty of Madrid, in 16is, between die Emperor Matthias, the King of Spain, Philip 111., and the Republic of Venice ; when each family had a different place of residence assigned to it ; and from that time, the propensity for pillage? c asi d amongst them; in short, after eighty years of disasters they became a tranquil body of people. There is another class of savage people in Dahnatia, called Morlachians, with whom it is very remarkable that the Uscoquesj in all their expeditious, never had the least intercourse. Some writers have supposed that the Moi laehiaus Were originally natives of Albania, and wen- therefore odious to the Uscoques ; because the Albanians Were formerly their greatest enemies, the Venetian army having been principally composed from amongst them; while others attribute their enmity lo a wish on the part of the I s( (nie.es to keep all the spoil amongst themselves. It was, however, fortunate for the Venetians that such an union never took plat e, as the two parties would thus have* become a more terrible* nation of pirates in theGulph of the Adriatic than those of Algiers and Tripoli are* in the Mediterranean. By the dialect of the Morlachians it appears as if they were nearer allied to tin* Bulgarians than to the* inhabitants of Albania ; and it is therefore impossible le> ascertain their real origin, which so'ins lost, in the obscurity of ages. Although a district of Croatia> which borderson the southern part of the Gulph of Venice, between Istria and Dahnatia, bears the name of Morlachia; it is not to be supposed that tins was the proper country of the Morlachians :—They are dispersed generally throughout Dahnatia, and principally on the mountains in the' interior of that country.—They occupy the valleys of Kotar, the banks of the rivers of Kerka, Cettiua, and Nareola, and extend towards Germany, Hungary, and even Greece. But though thesi people inhabit Dahnatia, their manners and language, of which the- Abbe lortis has treated at great length, and whose observations have been compared with those of M. Cassas, prove- that they are a tlistinct nation from the natives of the country ; and it is easy to perceive that they have been forced thither by some great political event, of which no trace is to lee found in history. Every circumstance, on the other hand, tends lo shew that the real Dalmatians are the posterity of the Romans, while' the race of ancient or aboriginal inhabitants has entirely disappeared, either by war, oppression, or the innumerable* intermixtures arising from different incursions. There even exists between the Italian Dalmatians and the Morlachians, a sort of hatred, and a kind of reciprocal contempt, which IN ISTRIA AND DALMAT1A. 7 clearly proves that they have not proceeded from one common origin- The Morlachiaus, have also experienced different modifications in their individual features, as well as in their national character, and these they have doubtless acquired by the difference of the soil on which they have taken up their residence. The Morlachiaus of the plains of Scign and Knin, and of the delightful vallies of Kotar, are affable, hospitable, mild, humane, and submissive to legislative discipline. They are robust, but not tall: their eyes are blue; their hair light; their faces broad ; and their noses flat; while their complexion is generally more clear and animated than that of the other Dalmatians. The Morlachiaus of Douari, and of the mountains of Vergoraz, on the contrary, are ardent, ferocious, proud, rash and active. Their form is slender ; their limbs are nervous ; their eyes and hair are dark and brown; they have long faces, of a vcllow or bilious complexion; and their looks are haughty. From inhabiting the mountains their life necessarily becomes more savage and laborious ; because, being surrounded by sterility, their necessities are more imperious, and excite in them a violent passion for rapine, which is not suppressed by am liar of chastisement, from which they are secured by the difficulty of approaching their retreats. Some learned writers have been of opinion that they might have descended from the Ardti I arnica, mentioned by Strabo, who resided along the river Narona ; and whom the Romans expelled from the shores of the sea, in order to deter them from their customary system of plunder. These Morlachians 6f Vergoraz prefer on their plundering excursions to commit depredations on the Turks rather than on the Christians, and they only attack the latter at the last extremity. They are, nevertheless, faithful to their promises ; sensible of any confidence which may be reposed in them ; never plunder the traveller who puts himself under their protection; and a person may, with safety, traverse their country, if he take the precaution to be accompanied by some of these individuals; but if he omit such a measure, their propensity for thieving is extreme. Thev prefer cunning to open force, and have a marked repugnance to the shedding of blood. If by chance they .should be surprise*] in the act of thieving, and the object is recovered by the owner, the coolness of their answers', and the firmness with which they persist in a lie are astonishing. A Mor-lachian will untie your horse, and steal it even 111 your presence: he will spring upon the animal, and when you would wish to take it again, he will insist, without being in the least disconcerted, that it is his property, lie will enter upon tin- genealogy of the horse, the history of the person from whom he bought it, the 8 Cassar's travr.i.s description of the fair where he made the purchase, and will call a hundred witnesses who will prove his assertions, because they all understand each other;—in short he will ride away on the horse, ridiculing your carelessness, by which he had an opportunity of stealing it. If a traveller repose at the foot of a hill, he is eased of his sabre, least it should incommode him:—two Morlachians approach towards him, and while one of them engages him in conversation, the other adroitly purloins the sabre, leaving the belt at his side; after which, he very composedly joins in the talk. In a short time, the traveller wishing to proceed, finds that his sabre is stolen. " That is a pity,"answers the thief:—" Why did not you take the same precaution as I do? I always keep mine in my hand." He then takes his leave.—Similar examples of roguery might be cited without number. Nevertheless, when we compare with this vice the sincerity, the confidence, and even the probity of these men, not only in the actions of their private life, but also in general affairs, we would be almost induced to believe that they have far different notions of propriety from those which prevail amongst more civilized people; that the act of thieving partakes of this disinterested-' ness, which makes them consider every thing as the common property of them all; and that they have only attained this unchangeable effrontery by their long communication with the Italians, and by the duplicity, of which they are so often the victims. It must not, however, be supposed, that tin; whole of the robberies committed in the mountains of Morlachia are to be attributed to the Morlachians:—the people called Haiducks claim a great portion to their own share; and this mixture perhaps only increases the propensity for pillage, which, amongst the Morlachians might, doubtless, be checked by the operation of a few mild laws. The Haiducks also should not be regarded, as some vvriters have been of opinion, as a distinct nation, of which that word is the generic name. The word Haiduck, which generally signifies chief, or captain of a party, and which is still used in Trans) ivania to designate: the head of a family, means in Dalmatia, an injury : it is also the appellation given to an assassin or highway-robber; or rather under this denomiiration are comprised all criminals and refugees. It IS consequently probable that, amongst these Haiducks who are intermixed with the Morlachians, there may be found a good number of the descendants of the Uscoqucs already mentioned. In general, the life of the Haiducks is infinitely more miserable than that of the Morlachians; being mostly exiles from society, on account of the crimes they have committed, they carry ■with them the apprehension of chastisement, and this idea increases their timidity. They inhabit only inaccessible rocks, or unknown precipices. In these retreats they are exposed to all the torments in istima and dalmatia. g of conscience, pursued by remorse; the fear and certainty of constant banishment; a prey to all the intemperance of the seasons, and the gloomy horrors of the caverns which they occupy; and to the continual cravings of hunger, which cannot alawys be satisfied;—not daring to approach inhabited places, except like wild beasts, in the obscurity of night. Thus they climb to the summits of the steepest mountains, to discover at a distance the traveller whom chance rarely conducts into these desert regions; and, tormented by necessity, and the hope of committing outrages, they often wait for months without finding an opportunity of allaying the anxiety which devours them; till at length, driven to desperation by their distresses, they rush into the plains, fall upon the flocks, drive them to their caverns, and feed upon their flesh; after which, they make their skins into shoes and clothes. On these occasions their courage is excessive; their timidity gives way to the imperious calls of want; and nature, in despair, encounters with violence the starvation which attends them. Hence no obstacle can check them; no daugercause in them alarm. Their motto is " Food or Death;" and in this crisis, four or live Haiducks will not hesitate to attack twenty or thirty Turks, whom they often repulse, and seize their caravan. The manners of these Haiducks prove, that there is no similarity between them and the Morlaehiaus; for though the latter have no distinct notions of right or wrong; and though their propensity to thieving seems to indicate that they possess no very accurate ideas, as to the right of property; since, if an object please their fancy, it is a sufficient inducement for them to steal it; yet it is certain, that there may be found amongst them many traits of candour; of antique manners, and particularly of that innocent liberty jvvhich has ever been peculiar toa pastoral people. Theirfriend-Jy disposition is peculiarly remarkable; for many of them never assemble at any public festival, at a market, or in a chinch, without giving the most striking instances of sensibility. All the men, women, girls, youths, and old people, as they arrive, embrace each other tenderly; it might be said, that they were all members of the same familv, who had met with each other after a long ab-sencc. A young Morlachian girl, on meeting one of her country people, whom she may never before have seen, will lavish upon him without diffidence the most tender caresses. At the celebration of fetes, these liberties are often carried to a greater extent j and v hat a refinement in manners would cause to be considered as indecency, passes amongst them as proceedings which are natural, and of no consequence. In this manner, their amours generally commence; nevertheless, there is scarcely an example of a young man dishonouring a girl; for the latter being naturally courageous, would make her seducer pay dear for such an atfrout. But when she makes choice of one from amongst her numerous lovers, cass as.] c 10 C ASS As's Til AVELS whose hopes she inspires &y receiving from them presents of a (riding nature; such as necklace's of heads, brass rings, knives, small glasses, is.*-.; she then deigns to seize a favourable place and opportunity, where she may permit him to "ratify his wishes; and these elopements are always succeeded by marriage'. They (any the virtue of hospitality to excess. It Is only necessary for a stranger to possess the slightest recommendation, to be received by a Morlachian as his brother. lie not only lavishes upon him every article which his house contains; but if he be informed of his approach, he will send a horse and an escort to meet him; and on Ins departure, will load him with provisions for his journey, and cause him to be accompanied to a certain distance, by his servants and his own children. The same reception is given to a stranger by tin- poor as by the rich: it only differs in the value of what is offered. This hospitality is carried to a still greater extent between the people themselves. Winn one Morlachian arrives at the residence of another, the mother of the family, her eldest daughter, or she who may have been last married, goes and embraces him; a favour which is not shewn to a stranger; it being cusloniarv for the girls to remain concealed daring his stay in the house. YV hen a Morlachian has a good stock of provisions, he shares them with his neighbours, who do the like by him in their turn. A Morla-ohiaii, therefore, is never reduced to lug: he enters the cottage' of his neighbour, seats himself at his table, lakes his repast, and remains 1 here' as long as he' pleases; and never experiences a want of cordiality from the owner. The slightest event is for them a subject of rejoicing or conviviality. They consequently disburse with their friends, in a single day, without the least regard for the next, as great a quantity of |amisions as wetuld serve their family for several months. It even frequently happens that shepherds, harvesters, and labourers e>f every description, will voluntarily present to travellers their whole day's provisions. Indeed it seems as if they knew no eeeonoiuy, hut in respect of their (lollies ; in Which they may be considered ridieulous and puerile, ll they have tO cross a slough, they will lake' off the ir shoe's, that they may ue>t soil them; anel, if they be' caught in a storm, they will pull off their coats and Caps, in order to keep them dry. To this admirable disinterestedness in their character, they add an uncommon degree of loyalty and fidelity to their promise's and engagements'. The won! of a Morlachian is sacred; and his violation of it is without example If by chance he contract a debt, anei at the stipulateel period he be'unable' to discharge it, he never fails to eatory to his creditor somepreserit, of a value equivalent to what he owes; and it is not to be presumed, that such a pre sent is intended as a liquielalion of the elebt; but simply as a sort of ex* IN IST1UA AND T) A LM ATI A . i i cuse for the delay to which the creditor has been subjected;—;a kind of grateful compensation for his patience. This.-present is repeated as often as the debtor is unable to discharge the debt, at the return the period agreed on; so that it is not unusual for a debtor to pay, in this manner, live or six times as much as he owes. I Jul, if they be faithful in this way, in matters of interest, they are enthusiastically so in their friendship- This noble and generous sentiment is, amongst them, a sort of religions rite; and »s Consecrated by particular ceremonies:—two voung men, or girls, associate together; and their union is consolidated bv a common education, custom, uniformity of character, and sometimes by those unforeseen and sudden emotions of sympathy, which often arise in the human breast. When two young persons agree to live in this kind of harmony, they repair to the church, accompanied by their relations; and the priest offers a benediction on the union, which becomes inviolable. Two girls joined in this manner, are called poseslrhnt", and tv\o men, pohral'nni. They are then inseparable for the rest of their lives : every circumstance has a common interest between them; pleasures, chagrin, dangers, injuries, and reverse of fortune; all, in short, is divided between the po-bratimi afld his comrade; and the poses/ rime and her friend. Even the sacrifice of life has often signalised these anient attachments; ami, if two pebratimi should happen to dissolve their union, the event is regarded as a public calamity, and as the forerunner ol some great misfortune, with which the nation is threatened. Formerly, sueh all incident was without example; but, during (lie l;i>t two or three ages, their too frequeul connections with the Italians have effected some alteration in the purity of their manners; vanillic introduction of strong liquors amongst them, has necessarily induced drunkenness, and, consequently, quarrels; and in this state of morals, there is little opportunity to distinguish the pOr bratimi from another man. But, if their friendship afford .such striking; trails of constancy ;md devotion, their enmity is equally permanent. Amidst such a number of admirable sentiments, one is Struck with astonishment, to see them carry to excess the most shocking passion with which man is afflicted::—namely, vengeance. A Morlacbian is an irre-concileable enemy; and nothing can satisfy him, but the death of the object of his hatred. It must not, however, be supposed, that simple word;, or trivial injuries, are the origin of sueh inveterate enmity; on the contrary, it must be excited by extraordinary motives, sueh as the assassination of u relative, a father, brother, or friend. This hatred, Or desire of vengeance, is then transmitted from father to son, as an inheritance; audit has been known to run through several generations, before it has been sa- 10 CASSAs's TI5 At ELS whose hopes she inspires In receiving from them presents ofatrt* thug nature; such as necklaces of beads, brass rings, knives, .small glasses, &e.; she then deigns to seize; a favourable place and opportunity, where she may permit him to gratify his wishes ■ and these elopements are' always suce-cedcd by marriage. They earn the* virtue of hospitality te> exce'.ss. 11 Ls only necessary for a stranger to possess the slightest ivcoinniendation, to be received by a Morlaehian as his brother. He not otUy lavishes upon him every article which his house contains; but if he be informed of his approach, he v\ ill send a horse and an escoft to meet him; and on Ins departure, will load him with provisions for his journey, and cause him to hi1 accompanied to a certain distance, by his servants and his own children. The same reception is given to a stranger by the poor as by the rich: it only differs in the value of what is offered; This hospitably is carried to a still greater extent between tin; people themselves. When one Morlaehian arrives at the residence of another, the niotlu'r of the family, her eldest daughter, or she who may have been la^t married, goes and embraces him; a favour whieh is not shewn to a stranger; it being customary for the girls to remain concealed during his stay in the house. When a Morlaehian has a good stock of provisions, he shares them with his neighbours, who elo the like by him in their turn. A Morlaehian, therefore, is never reduced to beg: lie enters the cottage of his neighbour, scats himself at his table, takes hisrepasl, and remains there' as long as he' pleases; and never experiences a want of cordiality from tin owner. The slightest event is for them a sub*. jeet of rejoicing or conviviality. They consequently disburse with their friends, in a single day, Without the least regard for the m\l, as great a quantity Of provisions mi'would-serve their family for several months. It even frequently happens that shepherds, harvesters, and labourers object of his hatred. It must not, however, be supposed, that simple words, or trivial injuries, are the origin of such inveterate enmity; on the contrary, it must be excited by extraordinary motives, smh as the' assassination of a relative, a father, brother, or friend. This hatred, or desire of vengeance, is then transmitted bom father to son, as an inheritance; audit has been known to run through several generations, before; it has been sa- c 2 v.: CASSAs/s Til AV els tiatcd;—indeed, a reconciliation is without example. They have1 tiever been known to pardon such enemies; and their favourite proverb is, " He who does not avenge his wrongs, is not to be forgiven." In the case of a murder, the bloody shirt, or clothes of the deceased, are preserved by his family, and are shewn to the children, who are informed of the name of the family of the assassin. Against this family they are irritated by every method which can excite resentment in their young minds, and inspire horror towards his race. But the most remarkable circumstance in their method of considering that species of justice, which they conceive to be a duty that rests with themselves, is, that whether their vengeance be suddenly executed, or not satisfied during a long Succession of years, there the enmity terminates; so that the family on whom a Morlachian has avenged himself, does not perpetuate the hatred, by wishing, in its turn, to avenge the death of him who was sacrificed to the resentment of a former iujury; on the contrary, from the moment of the first vengeance, the two families resume their friendship, and afterwards live together as if nothing had ever divided them. In some particular cantons, however, it often happens, that these divisions have a less tragical termination; but then, it is necessary that the murderer should be alive; for if he be dead before a reconciliation has taken place, then the children of the person assassinated must have blood; but if the murderer should exist long enough to amass a considerable sum, or be able to procure it, by selling a part of his property, he. may offer the money, by mean? of mediators, to the family of the deceased. If the negotiation he accepted, the two families are collected, and the murderer is permitted to come forward:—he is then obliged to wear, suspended from his neck, the arms with which he committed the crime; and, on entering the- assembly, he is forced to draw himself prostrate along the ground, in which position he remains, till Ids fate is decided on. While he remains in this humiliating situation, several relations of the deceased make separate funereal orations; and woe be to the criminal, if their eloquence should make a deep impression upon the auditors, as he is then indanger of being immediately sacrificed to their vengeance! But if he escape this ordeal, and they afterwards accept the money which he has ottered, then every thing is buried in oblivion, and the ceremony terminate? in festivities, which he is too happy to object to pay for. A part of the Morlachians follow the Greek rites; others the Roman religion; but the priests of both sects are equally fraudulent and ignorant; and, instead of checking the superstition of those; simple people-, thev take every means to promote it. There are, amongst the Morlachians, three classes of magicians, or swindlers who levy contributions on their credulity. The tirst are IN ISTTUA AND DAI.MAT1A. T3 those who pretend to have influence with the Devil: they cause the appearance of spectres aiid ghosts; practice witchcraft; predict future events, and tell fortune*:—these arc called Sorceresses, as they are generally women. There are others, whose art consists iu preventing the mischiefs caused by the former, and v\ho are, called Enchanters; and the priests have; likewise their charms:— they sell small talismans, amulets, and the names of saints, written in a hieroglyphical manner, to preserve the purchasers from thunder, fevers, mad dogs, &.c. This brief sketch will suffice to shew the deplorable abuses committed by the impostors upon the credulity ofthe natives; and 1 shall not tire the reader, by recounting the absurd tales which the Morlachians relate of the power of these sacred and profane sorcerers. The wretched people add to such torments of the imagination the folly of believing iu the existence of hobgoblins; and the precautions which they lake on the death of a man, whom they suspect to be under the influence of those spirits, are truly extravagant. Before the funeral, they cut the hamstrings of tlie corpse, and mark certain characters upon the body, with a hot iron; they then drive nails or pins into different parts of it, and die sorcerers finish the ceremony, by repeating certain mysterious words; after which, they rest confident, that the deceased cannot return to the earth, to shed the blood of the living. Some of them pretend to have the presentiment, that they shall become hobgoblins after their death, and decree, by their will, that their bodies shall be submitted to this species of purification. In other respects, the power of the sorcerers, whom they call Ujtstize and JU//to~ mi if, remains amongst the Morlachians; while the priests, more adroit and avaricious, have discovered the art of rendering their amulets or zapiz more interesting; not only to the Morlachians, but even to their neighbours, the Turks, who come from a considerable distance to procure them, and pay for them at an exorbitant rate. They are likewise so superstitious, as to attach pre-si rvative virtues to certain medals of the emperors; a superstition, however, which was prevalent amongst the Christians ofthe primitive Church, who attributed a powerful intlueiice to the medals of Augustus. The marriages are not always made by that permission, which, as has been already mentioned, a girl gives to her lover to carry her off; for young men will frequently observe the formality of demanding a girl iu marriage, by the medium of some common friend. They attach much value to an alliance with a numerous family; and particularly, if it have produced courageous men;— cofetge, amongst them, being equivalent to an illustrious title. If die suitor do not select from a family the girl whom he would prefer, his father, mother, or a friend,—but always, au old person demands, oil his \r,\rt, the daughter of a family. .All the girl.s aré then presented to him, from whom be chooses according to his fancy; and it often happens that he will prefer the eldest* As they hold the women but in slight esteem, the latter seldom make main, enquiries about the qualifications OÍ" rank of their suitor; and il he be only a simple domestic, he rarely experiences a refusal. The girl, however, before she gives her word, has the right to \isit the house and family of her future husband, to ascertain if thev be suitable to her wishes; and if she be satisfied, she brings with her the young man and his parents to the house of her father, or the head of her family, and the marriage is con eluded. Hie marriage-ceremonies are attended with many ludicrous circumstances which merit detail. On the day agreed upon, all the relations of both families meet together, and on these Occasions bear the generic: name of sr/ttt; the most considerable ■mongst them is called the Start Svctfi, and it is he who presides at the festival. His lieutenant is denominated the StackeZ> and his office is to receive and execute the orders of his superior. Two young people must incessantly accompany die newly-married woman, and these are called the 'divert: there are several other subordinate oilieers, particularly the master of tin; ceremonies called ('hi/tons. lie is armed with a mace, which "is a distinctive mark of his employment; and distributes the guest! in their respective places, According to their rank, lie always leads the van, and precedes die retinue; and by a singularity worth) of remark, he accompanies all his functions with a song, in which he constantly repeats the names of the ancient divinities of the Morlachians; which proves that Christianity has not yet struck such deep root amongst these people as might be supposed; and that a secret inclination still prevails amongst them for the gods of their fathers. All the avati or people at the wedding are armed front head to foot, a vestige of the ancient rudeness of their manners,as the marriage-ceremonies were in former times frequently interrupted by the jealousy of some slighted lovers, or by the cupidity Of some neighbours whose avarice was stimulated by the hope of a large boot). At the house, when the young couple are to be conducted to church, the wait mount on horseback to accompany them, and thev march as it were in order of battle, under protection of two oí" die guests, ceiled the jutrr'umz and tin: bariacter, who bear standards of silk attached to a lance, the gilt head of which is terminated liv an apple or ball:—the yóung bride remains veiled during the whole of the ceremony. On their return the greatest confusion prevails in the procession: the srttli discharge their fire-arms several times; and sing without order, or rather IN ISTTtIA AND DALMATIA. 15 make a kind of howl, expressive of the joy which animates them: tin v, in slant, abandon themselves to a sort of savage vivacity, which they express by acute and forcible shouts; and this kind of tumult certainly hears some resemblance to the manners of the barbarous ages. Frota church they bring the young girl either to the house of her husband or to that of her father, that which is nearest to the church being always preferred; and this distance alone determines the place at which the festivities are to be celebrated. As soon as they return from church, they sit down to table. Ibil before the party dismount from their horses, the dotncichifim or chief of the family of the bridegroom, comes to his daughter-in-law and presents her with a child, which is generally chosen from amongst the relations, neighbours, or friends, and which she is obliged to caress. She then descends from her horse, falls on her knees and kisses the threshold of the oWJ and her mother-in-law approaches and places in her hands a Sieve, as an emblem of the labour to which a woman ought to devote herself; in the same manner as at Rome, the newlv married woman in ancient times was made to sit upon a sheep's skin with its wool, to indicate that her days would henceforward be consecrated to domestic occupations. The sieve is tilled with almonds, nuts and fruits, which the young bride throws behind her to the smli, as an indication that it is by the labour of the woman that abundance is spread through the family. < >n the da\ of the wedding the young Couple do not eat together:—the woman sits at a private table With her two diéeri, or brides-bóys, and the stachez, or lieutenant:—the husband takes hi* place at the general table, amongst the svttti; but on this day he is not permitted to cut am thing, nor to untie an* string; it being the office of the kuum to Cut the bread, meat, and fruits, and to undress the bridegroom. They first bring the bukakra, a large cup filled with wine, the d&matlún imites them to empty it by drinking to the prosperity of all; it is then passed round the table. The dinner commences with fruits, the second course is meat, and afterwards soup. The women do not assist at this repast, but eat at a table by themselves. At these festivities the greatest abundance prevails; and not only the relations "lake the most sumptuous arrangements, but each of the sra/i brings provisions, and prides himself upon the profusion of his presents. Amusements follow the dinner, and the day is closed With supper, after which the kuum conducts the bride to her nuptial chamber, which is either the cellar or the stable, and, after having undressed her and her husband, retires; but he remains some time listening at the door, and at length fires a pistol, which is answered by a general discharge from the si uti! 16 CASfAs'g TRAVELS If tlio husband shoidd not be satisfied with the virtue of his wife, the fete is disturbed, and woe be to the mother of the bride! The celebration of ¡1 marriage usually lasts a week or longer, according to the fortune of the parents or the generosity of the n/ati. The father of the bride gives her nothing but her clothes and a cow; but she has a right to present a plate every morning to hi r guests, each of whom is obliged to put in a piece of silver: and this is not the. only contribution to which they are forced to submit; for when the bride has deprived them of their jewels or their clothes, they are obliged to redeem them, and the company in general determines the sum which they must give. The sr/fti also are obliged to make individually a present to the bride. These ceremonies prevail not only in the interior countries of the Mor-lachians; but also on the coast and in the isles of Istriuand Dal-matia, with little variation. In a short time after their marriage these women abandon themselves to a degree of misconduct almost without a parallel, but this is absolutely the fault of their husbands: for it is rare that women seek to please those by whom they are despised, and the Morlachians carry their contempt to an extent unknown amongst other nations. In fact there is no condition more pitiable than that of a Morlachian woman; she never partakes of the bed of her husband, and is obliged to sleep constantly on the floor. The most disgusting employment and painful fatigues fall to her lot; and even the sacred moments of maternal suffering do not excite any greater attention from her unfeeling husband. Nothing, in short, lightens the burthen which she is obliged to bear till the last period of her time, and it often happens that these women wiihout assistance, and in the middle of a field, give birth to the innocent creatures of their womb. As soon as a Morlachian woman has delivered herself, she takes up her child, washes it in the first spring in her way, carries it home, and the next day recommences her labours. They take no care of their children ; and if perchance the mother should become again pregnant in a short time, she ceases the suckling of her infant; but if on the contrary, several years should elapse before she is in that state, she continues to give the breast to her child, so that it often happens that the children suck till a very advanced age- Thcv are abandoned from their birth, with no other covering than a simple shirt. At the end ol two or three months they begin to make some voluntary movements, and crawl about the house on their hands and knees ; their strength thus insensibly accumulates, and they walk and run about the fields almost in a state of nakedness, and equally regardless of the most ardent heat or rigorous cold: thus they acquire that agility and vigorous constitution peculiar to the Morlachians, IN ISTfcIA AND DALMAT1A. 17 Notwithstanding the degraded state of the Morlachian women, a sort of coquetry is nevertheless perceptible in their dress, but much more so in that of the girls, because custom allows them to enjoy a sort of licentious liberty which the married women must not exhibit. For instance the former load their heads with scarlet cloth, ornamented with glass beads, shells, and sometimes with valuable medals, as well as with feathers of various colours, under which they fasten the tresses of iheir hair; while the married women are only permitted to wear a white or coloured handkerchief negligently tied, and must let their hair fall over their shoulders, or tie it under the chill. The girls also add to their dress ear-rings of glass or coloured shells, rings of fillagree, or silver chains, intermixed with pieces of glass of various colours, brass or silver rings, and bracelets of leather, ornamented with copper. On the celebration of festivals their dress is subjected to many variations of a superior kind. The priest of each parish has a right publicly to tear from a girl, whose conduct is reproachable, her cap and veil, and one of her parents is allowed to cut off her hair. It is easy to conceive the abuse which the priests may make of this privilege, and how much it is calculated to favour licentiousness or resentment /or the refusal of liberties. The girls, however, in general, do not submit to this dishonourable ceremony; but after voluntarily depriving themselves of their caps and veils, quit the country. The dress of the men is more simple: a large pair of white serge breeches, which are fixed above the hips by strings, and descend to the ancles, where they are joined by brodequius of wool, with leather soles, similar to those of the women; a sort of doublet of coarse cloth is the only vestment which they wear above the shirt, except in winter, when they add a cloak of red cloth. Their greatest luxury is their waistbands or girdles, winch are made of a sort of Levant net-work of red silk. In this belt they place their arms, and at their sides, behind the other weapons, their pistols; more in front is a large cutlash, which they call hauzar, supported by a chain of brass or silver, which passes spirally round the belt. The blade is inclosed in a metal sheath, which is almost always polished and ornamented, as well as the handle, with metallic, plates, and false jewellery. They also affix to their girdle a box containing fat, which is used to preserve their arms from rust, and to dress such wounds as they may happen tO receive while hunting or travelling; and they likewise carry in the" same manner a purse containing their money, a flint and a steel. Their tobacco, preserved in a prepared bladder, they keep in the folds of their girdle. Altogether their dress, of which their arms constitute a part, is more or less rich, according to their circumstances, and a Mor- cassas.] a CASSAS's TRAVELS lachian never leaves Iris home without bearing his musket on his shoulder. Their houses,or rather their cots or huts, are rendered quite black on the inside by the smoke, which rises from the hearth in the centre, and has no passage except by the door. Their furniture is rude and simple: the richest amongst them seldom possesses a bed ; so that they lie almost always on straw, wrapped in thick quilts of Turkish manufacture : but the women lie invariably on the floor. It frequently happens that a whole family, after having supped round the tire, fall asleep and pass the night without stirring from their places. In summer they sleep in the open air. They generally share their lodging with their cattle, from whom they are only separated by a partition of reeds. The walls of the cabin are constructed of the dung of the cattle, and large stones, badly hewn. They do not use oil for their lamps, but butter, the smoke of which is thick and fetid; and their clothes, persons, and even aliments, exhale the smell of this smoke, which to strangers is insupportable. Their bread consists of a sort of cakes, made with the flour of maize, barley, or millet, and baked upon heated stones. Their common drink is milk, and it is particularly palatable to them when it is separated from the serous part by means of vinegar. Garlic, eschalots and cabbages, some particular kinds of roots which grow spontaneously in the fields and woods, are to them the greatest delicacies. They eat their meat no other Way dressed than roasted. Some writers have said much of the vigorous health of these people and the longevity to which they aitam, bv aiiribiiting these effects to the quantity of garlic they consume. I am, however, of opinion that the principal causes of their health and vigour are the vegetables on which they feed, the milk which is their constant beverage, the absence of strong drinks, which are only allowed on their days of rejoicing, and particularly their repugnance to boiled meats, which, by being deprived of their nutritive juices, afford only a weak and indigestible aliment. As the JVIorlachians abound in health and vigour, their diversions are of that appropriate kind which consists in the development of their strength and agility: such as leaping over a very high obstacle, running with uncommon swiftness, or throwing to a distance a stone which other men could .scarcely lift. In short a Morlaehiau sixty years of age would excel in such execrcises, the young men of our climates. Dancing, however, takes precedence of all their amusements, and forms their favourite pleasure, in which they engage to excess. A harsh bagpipe, or simply the voice, animates them to tins exer-rv-v, which is not distinguishable tor complex or particular figures, but by extravagant and ludicrous jumps, in consequcuce of lhetr IN 1 stria AND dalmatia. 19 love for violent exertions. Even the fatigue of a long journey, or of hard labour, cannot restrain their ardour for dancing, at which they continue lor many hours when they appear to be more in need of repose. Under such favourable circumstances they hav e few diseases, and consequently have no occasion for physicians. Fevers, which are in general peculiar to robust constitutions, and inflammations, the common result of violent exercises, are almost the only acute maladies with which they are attacked. As to chronic diseases, they know of none but the rheumatism, the natural consequence of sleeping in the open air during summer* in a climate where the dews fall in abundance. With them, as is the case with all people where civilization has made no great progress, violent remedies are those only in which they confide. In general, pepper and gun-powder, infused in brandy, compose their panacea for iuilammatory disorders; and it will scarcely be believed, that this remedy is often attended with success :—perhaps, however they are indebted for their cure to the abundant perspiration which this medicine induces. Wine and pepper, in large doses and taken at certain periods, also form a febrifuge which they employ with success. External friction, or the application of a heated stone wrapped in damp linen, are the methods by which they cure rheumatisms. They are also acquainted with the use of leeches for swellings. Red ochre, mixed with fat substances, is the only ointment they apply to wounds and contusions ; and it is a fact, that, from the experience of the Morlachians, some men of science have obtained from this ointment, in similar circumstances, the most favourable results. Without any knowledge of anatomy or osteology, they are most of them extremely adroit in setting dislocated or fractured limbs. For phlebotomy they do not employ lancets, but steel fleams, nearly similar to those used for horses; and this operation is always performed without dangerous consequences. But at length, like all other men, they pay the debt of nature; and the instant a Morlachian has breathed his last, preparations are made for his funeral. Women who are lured to cry, place themselves in the apartment where the corpse is exposed, and join in the lamentations of those united to the deceased by consanguinity and friendship. The body remains for some days thus exposed; it is placed on the ground, upon the cloak worn during life, and the face is uncovered. By the corpse are laid the belt, arms, pipe and purse of the deceased; and during this period all the relations are obliged to visit it: this duty is never dispensed with, except in the case of a voyage or journey, when the nearest relation is obliged to entreat the deceased to accept of such an excuse. It is also the custom for each of the relations anil lYw\"\> of the deceased seriously to address the corpse, as if it were D2 capable of hearing and answering their speeches- This custom also prevails amongst several of the savage tribes of Africa and North America. The wishes of the Morlachians are to know for what reason the deceased has quitted this life? Who is the friend with whom he could not live, and whal was his subject of complaint ? They then entreat him to take charge of their commissions, which are commonly to report their news to their parents and friends, and announce their prosperity or misfortunes: to entreat them to secure for them a place by their side, and a number of other similar requests. After these visits are finished, the corpse is covered with white linen, and the procession moves towards the church, amidst the groans of the women and relations, the former of whom chaunt the principal events of its life. They afterwards return to the house, with the priests who presided at the religious ceremonies, and the funeral is succeeded by a repast, at which the behaviour of the guests forms a striking contrast with the howling of the women and the praying of the priests. The chaunting of the women at the funerals is extempore, and proves that they are not unacquainted with the genius of poetry, These people have doubtless bad their bards; an incontestible proof that the nation formerly enjoyed, by its courage, a rank amongst the barbarous people of Germany:—I say by its courage, for cowardly people were never known to have poets. Amongst the Morlachians, there is never a fete or assembly without a chaunter. The songs, which are in the lllyriau idiom, but corrupted by their transmission through a number of ages, describe the history of some Sclavonian heroes, or relate of sonic tragical event; the time of which is forgotten. This he-roical song is grave, heavy, and monotonous. The instrument with which it is accompanied, is but little calculated to give it animation: it is a miserable irtonOchord guitar; the sound of which is dull, and without modulation. The poetry, however, is not without energy: it does not possess the savage wildness of that of Ossian; but sometimes has that august kind of simplicity, which penetrates to the soul. If a Morlachian travel by night amongst the mountains, he generally sings; and these antique poems are always the songs which he prefers. A long exclamation, or rather a barbarous and prolonged cry, precedes each strophe. It often happens, that this song is heard a-far off by some other Morlachian, who never fails to repeat, in the samt; tone, the couplet which the other has ehaunted; and, they thus answer each other, as long as they can be heard. It is impossible to describe the species of sadness, or melancholy, which this kind of musical dialogue spreads through the soul, the doleful expression of which, is prolonged in echos by the desart moun* tains, amidst the profound silence and solitude of night. i N J STRIA AND dalma11a. The other inhabitants of Dalmatia and [stria* though eon-founded with the Morlachians, do not bear to them the least ami-logy: they are, in fact, two nations, perfectly distinct from each other, which has been fully verified by the observations of M. Cassas, during his journey. The real Dalmatians are Italians, and particularly Venetians, in the fullest acceptation of the word: —thev speak the language, have the same manners, customs, and religion; the same servility and craftiness as those people; while the vicinity of Germany and the Austrian government, even in those parts which were formerly under its dominion, they have undergone but a very slight alteration in tb. fr g< oeral physiognomy* Hence we find the inhabitants of those countries to consist of Italians, in the towns and burghs on the coast; Morlachians in some isles, and in the vallies ; and Haiducks in the mountains and deserts; and these form the present population of a territory where* two thousand \ears ago, a poweitul queen insulted the pride of the Roman senate, and whose fate proclaimed this striking truth that an unjust monarchy will always fall before the energy of irritated virtue. The different tribes, however, who form the present population of Dalmatia, afford a great scope for the reflections of the philosopher. It is here that two extremes have met,and remain together; that is to say, the last of the pigmies who bore the Roman name, and the images of those ancient giants—the barbarians of the North. Thus, we see that no human efforts can restore a power, which has been gradually undermined by the corruption of its morals; and that the long progression of centuries causes no improvement in the civilization of men, whose ancestors were rude and barbarous, unless they be assisted by a superior energy. These two facts are strikingly engraven on the soil of Dalmatia. The Morlachians of the present day are such as were formerly the Sclavonians; and in the Dalmatians we discover all the littleness of the courts of Home and Byzantium. In their irresolute manner, their habitual politeness, their ambiguous gait, and general timidity, we discover a people, long disheartened by conquest; and whose defeats have frequently changed their appearance. We also discover amongst them, that spirit of intrigue, that appendage of debilitated governments, that evident duplicity, which is a proof of the exile of patriotism; that innate servility, which will advance to individual fortune over the rums of public prosperity; and that tortuous restlessness, which is to be supported only In cabals, falsehoods, invidious rivalry, and affected religion;—in short, it may be said, that we find here Rome under Augustus, and Byzantium under Andronicus, and now, after fourteen hundred years, however trivial our observation, if we proceed, as it Were, with history iu our hands, and take trouble to study the men capable of hearing and answering their speeches. This custom also prevails amongst several of the savage tribes of Africa and North America. The wishes of the Morlachians are to know for what reason the deceased has quitted this life? Who is 1 he friend with whom he could not live, and what was his subject of complaint ? They then entreat him to take charge of their commissions, which are commonly to report their news to their parents and friends, and announce their prosperity or misfortunes: to entreat them to secure for them a place by their side, and a number of other similar requests. After these visits are finished, the corpse is covered with white linen, and the procession moves towards the church, amidst the groans of the women and relations, the former of whom chaunt the principal events of its life. They afterwards return to the house, with the priests who presided at the religious ceremonies, and the funeral is succeeded by a repast, at which the behaviour of the guests forms a striking contrast with tjic howling of the women and the praying of the priests. The chaunting of the women at the louerais is extempore, and proves that they are not unacquainted with the genius of poetry. These people have doubtless had their bards; an incomestible proof that the nation formerly enjoyed, by its courage, a rank amongst the barbarous people of Germany:—i say by its courage, for cowardly people were never known to have poets. Amongst the Morlachians, there is never a fête or assembly without a chaunter. The songs, which are in the Illyrian idiom, but corrupted by their transmission through a number of ages, describe the history of some Sclavonian heroes, or relate of some tragical event; the time of which is forgotten. This heroica I song is grave, heavy, and monotonous. The instrument with which it is accompanied, is but little calculated to give it animation: it is a miserable monochord guitar; the sound of which is dull, and without modulation. The poetry, however, is not without energy: it does not possess the savage wildness of that of Ossian; but sometimes has that august kind of simplicity, which penetrates to the soul. If a Morlachian travel by night amongst the mountains, he generally sings; and these antique poems are always the songs which he prefers. A long exclamation, or rather a barbarous and prolonged cry, precedes each strophe. It often happens, that this song is heard a-far oft by some other Morlachian, who never fails to repeat, in the same tone, the couplet which the other has chaunted; and, they thus answer each other, as long as they can be heard. It is impossible to describe the species of sadness, or melancholy, which this kind of musical dialogue spreads through the soul, the doleful expression of which, is prolonged in echos by the desart mountains, amidst the profound silence and solitude of night. IN JSTRIA and DALMAT1A. SI The other inhabitants of Daltnalia and I stria, though con^ founded with the Morlachians, do not hear to them the least analogy : they are, in fact, two nations, perfectly distinct from each other, which has been fully verified b) tin- observations of M. Cassas, during his jouiney. The real Dalmatians are Italians, and particularly Venetians, in the fullest acceptation of the word: —they speak the language, have the same manners, customs, and religion; the same servility and craftiness as those people; while the vicinity of Germany and the Austrian government, even in those parts which were formerly under its dominion, they have undergone but a very slight alteration in their general physiognomy. Hence we find the inhabitants of those countries to consist of Italians, in the towns and burghs on the coast; Morlaclnans in some isles, and in the vallies; and Haiducks in the mountains and deserts; and these form the present population of a territory where* two thousand years ago, a powerful queen insulted the pride of the Roman senate, and whose fate proclaimed this striking truth,— that an unjust monarchy will always fall before the euergv of irritated virtue. The different tribes, however, who form the present population of Dtihnatia, afford a great scope for the reflections of the philosopher. It is here that tw < i extremes have met, and remain together; that is to say, the last of the pigmies who bore the Roman name, and the images of those ancient giants—the barbarians of the North. Thus, we see that no human efforts can restore a power, which has been gradually undermined by the corruption of its morals; and that the long progression of centuries causes no improvement in the civilization of nun, whose ancestors were rude and barbarous, unless they be assisted by a superior energy. These two facts are strikingly engraven on the soil of Dalmatia. The Moilachians of the present day are such as were formerly the Sclavonians; and in the Dalmatians we discover all the littleness of the courts of Rome and Byzantium. In their irresolute manner* their habitual politeness, their ambiguous gait, and general timidity, we discover a people, long disheartened by conquest; and whose defeats have frequently changed their appearance. We also discover amongst them, that spirit of intrigue, that appendage of debilitated governments, that evident duplicity, which is a proof of the exile of patriotism; that innate Servility, which will advance to individual fortune over the rums of public prosperity; and that tortuous restlessness, which is to be supported only" by cabals, falsehoods, invidious rivalry, and affected religion;—in short, it may be said, that we find here Home under Augustus, and Byzantium under Andronicus, and now, after fourteen hundred years, however trivial our observation, if we proceed, as it Were, with history in our hands, and take trouble to study the men CASSAS'S TRAVELS whom we meet with in Dalmatia, we shall find them to be exactly what we have been taught to consider the Romans, at the last period of their degradation; while in theMorlachians we shall discover such people as must formerly have been the Barbarian founders of some of the great empires of Europe, which now appear in so high a state of civilization. There are none of the ancient Dalmatians to be found here; and the Moderns are, like all the people of Italy, only a mixture of the Roman blood with that of the numerous emigrant nations who contributed to their destruction. The small number of Haiducks dispersed amongst the mountains, are the refuse of this mixture; while the Morla-chians appear to have remained unaltered, amidst this vast confusion. It is a body of these people who may be said to have established themselves, from the mouths of the Danube to the Atlantic ocean. They have not become civilized, because they are not yet sufficiently numerous; or perhaps, because they have not yet found a space sufficiently large, to form the outlines of an empire:—in short, they have been the sufferers, rather than the protected. Their manners have received little impression from the neighbouring powers; because it was in their primitive nature to give the impulse, and not to receive it; inasmuch, as Utey participated in the great shock experienced by the northern people; and they have remained without any very striking marks of urbanity; because the action of the impulse that was given, prevailed with less force upon them; and consequently they possessed neither sufficient energy to govern, nor sufficient weakness to submit:— in a few words, they only changed their climate, and they have remained the same, as were those great people just mentioned, who changed their climate for the purpose of conquest; and who, having conquered, were obliged to submit to a social organization, as a means of preservation. This organization required rules,—the rules a discipline,—and the discipline laws. The physiognomy was the first to alter, for it is the laws which make nations polished ; and the Morlachians have only customs and traditions. SOCIETY of admirers of the fine arts, including beautiful views from nature, and pompous remains of antiquity, had conceived the project of causing designs to be made of some of the most striking scites in the environs of Trieste, which were to be engraved at Vienna, under the patronage of the emperor JosephII. This society, in the year 1782, fixed upon M. Cassas, who was then PART II. THE JOURNAL OF M. CASSAS. IN ISTItt Y AND DAI.MATIA. £3 at Rome, as a proper person to execute their plan. In consequence of this appointment, he, on the 10th of May, in the same year, left Rome for Trieste, and on the loth arrived at Ancona: the next day he embarked at Pesaro, and having a favourable wind, he reached Venice on the 17th. In consequence of the unfavourable weather, the ceremony of the liucentaur had been deferred; and for nine days, during which our traveller was forced to remain at Venice, to make' the final preparations for his voyage, he witnessed this fete, which is certainly the most pompous of am that are celebrated in that republic, and the most puerile in its nature, as its object is the marriage of the Doge with the Sea. Every year, the Doge, accompanied by the senate, proceeds in a grand galley, beyond the rock of Lido, about the distance of a mile :—his vessel is ornamented with ruddy sculptured figures, covered with gold, and the cabin of which is overspread with a large crimson velvet carpet, bordered with broad gold galloon and fringe of the same kind. He is attended by three of the galleys of the Republic, and by two or three thousand gondolas, which may be said to supply the place of private carriages. On arriving at the appointed spot, the Doge, with a ludicrous kind of gravity, throws a ring into the sea, and emphatically pronounces these words, w Sponsamm te, marc, in ngttUM veri et pcrpetui dominii." The patriarch, in order to render this ceremony the more impressive in the eyes of the people, then gives the nuptial benediction to the bride and brick groom, accompanied by the tiring of cannon, mortars, and musqueli v. The whole of the company next repair to hear mass at Lido; and as there can be no good festivals without feasting, the Doge, on his return, gives a splendid repast to the senators and procurators of St. Mark. The origin of this ceremony is traced from the Pontificate of Alexander III. who, according to some writers, permitted the Venetians to enjoy the advantages of the Adriatic sea. The aris-tocratical pride of the senate, however, would not agree to the privilege, and pretended that the Pope had only to confirm the possession ; which ceremony was afterwards renewed every year. One cannot but smile, on observing men thus sanctify their usurpations, and appropriate to themselves, in the name of God and of justice, what they know belongs no more to them, than to any nation on the Earth. Pope Julius II. was one day joking with a Venetian ambassador, named Jerome Domat, on the marriage of his Doge to the sea, and asked him where were to be found the titles or justificatory authorities for this marriage-contract. The ambassador answered, that these titles w ere to be found at the back of the original Act of the Donation, made by the emperor 24 CASSAs's TRAVELS Constantino to pope Sylvester:—thus do these men ridicule each other on their usurpations. The ideas of an artist are generally greater than those of the jncn who have recourse to his talents. It was at first only proposed, that he should make some drawings of Trieste; but M-Cassas, finding the coasts of lstria and Dahnatia to abound in rich remains of antiquity, perceived the advantage which he might render to the arts, and perhaps to society, by not confining himself within the narrow circle which had been marked out for him. Simple drawings of landscapes, appeared to him of infinitely less comparative importance, than that which might be derived from his Ira',els, if they should be pursued to a greater extent. He therefore resolved to visit the different places in the above-mentioned vicinity, which are known to abound in monuments left by the Romans; and to render a service to archeology, by transmitting Faithful views, executed with scrupulous attention. He imparted his project to some Frenchmen and Milanese of his acquaintance, whom he met at Venice, Messrs. Daehe, Barthe, Layed de Becheville of Boulogne, Bonclli, Visconti, and others, who, struck with the charms of such a journey, proposed to bear him company; and being themselves accustomed to travel, they saw few obstacles to their wishes; but this first ardour was soon extinguished, and a few days afterwards, they left one artist to pursue his generous enterprise alone. They hired a small felucca; supplied it with provisions, and on the 27th of May embarked at the Piazetta, when, having a favourable wind, they traversed, during that day and the following night, the gulph of Venice. At day-break, on the next morning, they discovered the coasts of lstria, and the high mountains of the Tirol; and in the evening they entered the port of Trevigno, or Kovigno, a pretty town, situated on a rock, in a peninsula, on the western coast of lstria. This town is well built, and contains about 10,000 inhabitants. It is natural that its edifices should be solidly constructed, and that their architecture should announce a sort of elegance, since the quarries which it possesses are those, from whence are extracted all the llene for the buildings in Venice; and this circumstance, besides proving a source of constant opulence to the town, likewise attracts thither, for the purpose of examining the stones, the most skilful architects of the capital, whose residence there is testified by its buildings. The cathedral is a line, large, gothic ediiice; and stands majestically in the most elevated part of the town. This building is particularly remarkable, by the height and beauty of its steeple, which appears to have been built on the same plan as that of St. Mark at Venice. t a, fi i.fi Trav elf. fiai IN istk1a AND DALMATIA. 25 After stopping a few hours at Roviguo, M. Cassasand his companions re-embarked for Pola, and sailed along theCOe.stot Islna. The and and uncultivated soil in this quarter generally presented a Wild aspect; and, on approaching Pola, they frequently met with a number of islets, which rendered ihe navigation very dangeious. These little islands are barren ; and the roads of Pola are known by numerous shoals and points of rocks. The town is situated at the bottom of the harbour, which is spacious and convenient: it is a large bason, completely land-locked, so that slops find shelter in it during the most violent storms, in all seasons. On entering tins bay, one is ago eablv surprised, by tin ^ view of a magnificent amphitheatre, which is one of the most complete and beautiful mouuim uts of antiquity. Tim m »,esiy of this colossal mass ; the delightful verdure of the coast which it seems to crown; the cam state of the water, which almost washes its walls, and which relh (:U its august figure; the religious veneration arising from the view of structures which have braved the efforts of time: all conspire to give to the mind a dcligiuiul sensation of pleasure and melancholy, which it is difficult to describe. As they advanced in die road, and on doubling a point, or small cape, they at length discovert d the walls of Pola, and the citadel whichc.o inmands the town. Our voyagers entered the port; but before they, were suffered to land, thev were conducted to an office of health) in order to ascertain, by the examination of their p. p is, whether they had come from the l^evant. The extreme rigour, how ever, of these examination docs not prevent the plague from making considerable ravages ; for which it is not the officers who are to blame, but the weakness of the V enetiali police, which does not make sufficient exertions to expel from the desert isles and the coasts of lsti ia and Dalmatiu the banditti, or pirates, who make them their places of refuge; and who, in their nocturnal expeditions, when they capture baiksconnng from the Archipelago, or Greece, carry the booty which they fmd in them to the interior of the country, 01 tolhelittleaudobscme towns on the coast, where they are less liable to be discovered; and where they dispose of it without any precaution: thus facilitating the propagation of pestilential diseases,! if which such merchandizes have the faculty ot containing and developing the latent germs. ■Next to /Egida, or Capo d'istria, ot which we shall speak hereafter, Pola was the most considerable town of lstria. It has, however, preserved many more traces of its ancient grandeur than die former. If wo were to beiieve, not only the poet Calli-'nachus, but even the assertion of Sti;.bo, Pola was die residence u* the Colchuliaus, after their expedition The first-mentioned writer was the author of that fiction, and is not of sufficient <-'ASSAS.J li C ASS A s\s TR AVF.LS authority todemand attention; but Strabo supports the idea, by assert-hie, that,in tbr Golchidianlanguage, Pola signifies Hani shed People. The opinion of some authors, who maintain that the name of istria is derived from that of the Colehes, who, before their disemharkation at Pola, arrived at the Danube, which was then called fster, is equally ridiculous; for. as Spon has justly observed, they must have been obliged, if they had come to the Danube, to carry their vessels on their shoulders, before they could disembark at Pola; that river having no communication with the Adriatic Sea. Tt is, however, certain, that this town long held a considerable rank amongst those of the district in question; even at the time when it was conquered by the Pomans, as they deemed the inhabitants worthy of the title of Roman citizens, and of municipal privileges; a favour, which they did not indiscriminately confer. It is not very far from the promontory of Istria, known in ancient geography by the name of Po/aticum Prumon for nun, which is at the entrance of the gulph, called by Pomponius Mela, Polatieus This town was uncommonly flourishing, when the Romans surrounded it v\ ith their omnipotence; and, under the emperor Severn*, it proudly assumed the title of republic, llespubliea Polemis, as is evident from the inscription found on one of the sides of the base of a statue, raised in honour of that emperor, and which may still be seen at the entrance of the church of Pola;—but its splendour was eclipsed, as well as the glory of its masters; and it now contains only between six and seven hundred inhabitants, dispersed within the walls of a town, near which is still admired an amphitheatre capable of containing many thousands of spectators. Its only defence is, a ruinous citadel with four bastions, which was begun by the Venetians, who left it imperfect: a detachment of fifteen or twenty men was the only garrison they maintained. Tbe mere fees of the governor whom they kept there, amounted to more in one month than the annual pay of the whole garrison. Ilns governor was a personage of no use, in a town where the military force was of such little importance; but it was an additional place for a noble Venetian. The walls of the amphitheatre are still entire; its form is like that of all structures of a similar kind. It is generally supposed, that the stones, of which it was constructed, were taken from the quarries in Istria; but although they are very fine, and still un-decayed, they do not appear to be of the kind which are called, in the arts, Istria blocks; as these are a sort of marble or granitic stone, extremely scarce; and of which the French Central Museum of the Arts only possesses a few columns. This amphitheatre has three stories, each of which contains seventy-two arcades; making in all two hundred and sixteen. There remains is 1 st r I A and da1.mat1a. '11 only the shell of this edifice, which four spurs, placed ut the four angles of a supposed square, distinguish from other buildings of the same kind, as in this respect it deviates from their general style. This circumstance alone gives rise to uncertainty, as well v. ith regard to the period when it was built, as to the persons who built it. A part of the steps must have been cut out of the solid rock; and it is probable, that the soil, as it has accumulated, lias covered them: the rest of the steps were of wood,and from every appearance they must either have been carried off or burnt; or perhaps they may have rotted by age, as the places which they occupied are tilled with dust. At the time of which we have spoken, this theatre was appropriated to various sports, and its walls resounded with the noisy acclamations of the spectators. It is now the abode of dtaH and melancholy. What deep reflections arise on entering this edifice, and how eloquent is the solitude with which one is surrounded! We may imagine that we hear the peroration of the history of empires. Where is the seat of Augustus? where are those flowers, those myrtles and laurels which hung in festoons oyer the heads of the haughty Romans? All has disappeared, the Ciesars who made nations tremhle, the lions who disputed with the criminal the period of his existence, the actor who recited the verses of Sophocles and Terence, the heroes covered with triumphal purple, and the people who in the- enjoyment of the games of the circus forgot their state of bondage! In this field of antiquity there now remain nothing but ruins. Ambitious man, wander amongst them: they will remind thee of the grave! This amphitheatre is not the only piece of antiquity in Pola: the town contains a temple dedicated " to Rome and to Augustus," as is evident from the inscription on its facade. This kind of divine association between Augustus and Uome is met with in other parts, and can only surprize those who are not familiar with history. It is known that Augustus was for a length of time pressed by his flatterers to permit them to erect temples to him during his life: at ivtt he refused with a sort of obstinacy; but the sycophants were so ardent in their object, that at length he consented that they should erect altars to his honour. The city of Rome was alone, excepted from this favour; and he only granted it to the other towns of the empire on condition that Home should always enjoy a moiety of the worship that was rendered to him, and that fhe tQtive inscriptions on the temples, should every where be, ' " o iioMii, and to at oust us," &c. That of Pola is one ot those which the provinces undertook to raise; and the inscrip-which M. Cassas has ascertained to have been exactly quoted l,i Spon, leaves no doubt on this point. The erection of this e 3 I C ASSAs's Tit .WEI.S temple must have taken place soon after the conclusion of the war excited by the insurrections, which took place in these countries, a.s recorded in history; and it is not unlikely, that this was one of the means employed by the people, who had submilted to the yoke, to gain the favour of the Kmperor. The ar DA LM \ 1 I V. nun. One morning, being more occupied wilh tin-charms ot poetiv, than with the cans of his govern incut, or his personal sufctv, he walked out from tin'town m his moi niug-'jou n: and, anwatjd by tin1 agreeable dreams of his imagination, Ii« * lui not recollect himself, till he fell in with a partv o| banditti: they hu-mediately began to rob him; and perhaps intended to inflict a punishment still mor« disastrous, when one of them iecogni/«d him, and named him to his companions. Thev were all instantly so .-.truck wilh respect, that thev fell at his bet, to implore pardoll for the injury thev had intended todo him; and selecting an escort, thev re-conducted luni tO the town, assuring lu„,t t lut t thev made a distinction between the great pod and the governor; and that il was to Ariosto thev delighted in rendering homage. Thus it is evident, that his works were known even to robbers; and it may not be impossible, that SOflUOÍ the^eimn, Mtiacled to ihr coa»ts of Dalmatia, as to places which had become, b) a com ;tt. naliou of circumstances, the metropolis of banditti, bent their course to l>ola, anil there took up theii residence; that in their slate of ignorance, the appearance of some of the old towers, which still remain on the ancient walls,0Í tbil town, might have re* uiinded them of the fictions of Ariosto; and the palaces and magic caslies, which he has depicted w ith Mich giaiideiir of di -scriptiou, might have induced them to say, " Here is a similar edifice; lure are Mich towers as we read of in ( Mando. Hence, when thev v\ ished to speak of Tola, or to take up their residence in any uninhabited ruin, in order to divide their spoil, thev might have «iid, " We »Judi assembla iu the Orlaudinu, or the cattle of Orlando." This idea may have spread abroad; the people in the environs of Pola may have heard it;—it may have taken root amongst them; and the tradition may have effected tue rest. Some ruins, to which the peop'e also give the name of the palace ol Julia, are likewise involved in an obscurity, which it is diftieult to clear up, if one would know to what Julia this pakae belong, d. k cannot be attributed to Julia, the sister of Julius (Jasir, and matt real grandmother of Augustus; nor to Julia, the daughh r of the same C'a;sai, and wife of Pomp, y. History interne- us that both died at lióme, which capital thi v never quitt« d. Neither can it be supposed to have belong, d to the tvvo.lu'.us, the daughter and grand-daughter of Augustus. Though the form« r was married to Tibi rius; and though this prince made a long ctay ui Istria and Dahnatia; vet it is known, that he was only ambitious o| a cominai.d in those provinces, iu order that he might separate h ii i im; h' bom his wife, whose conduct caused him to bludi; and «'"nsrmietitly s¡u. did not follow hiui. As to the latter, she had •n ver «piiiti.il Kome before she wa- condemned to exile ; and 30 CASSAs's TRAVELS though the place of her banishment was a small isle in the sea which was afterwards called the Adriatic, il is not to be supposed, that she left that spot to reside at Beta; nor that she possessed the means of building a palace. Two other Julias were equally famous; one, the sister of Caligula, who was banished to the isle of Ponce; the other was the niece of Domitian, Mho prostituted herself to that monster, and died in die imperial palace at Home, in consequence of taking a potion to conceal her pregnancy from the public. If, therefor*', it were a Julia, who had resided some time in these countries, and who had a palace, it could only be Julia Domna, the second wife of the emperor Septimus Severus. He had been, for a longtime, governor of lllyria, when he succeeded to the empire; and it is known that he went to seek Julia Domna in Syria, because an oracle bad predicted that the empire would fall to the man whom she might espouse. He brought her home with him ; and some time afterwards, he was proclaimed by the legions of lllyria; while the whole of that part of Europe, from the Danube to the (.inlph, acknowledged his authority, and he marched at the head of his armv to Home, against Didius Juliauus. It might also be presumed, that, considering the uncertainty of success in such an enterprise, totally military; and in which, in order more than ever to gain the love of the soldiery, he affected to march on foot, and to abolish all the pomp of sovereign power, he would not permit his wife to follow him, but left her in lllyria. Jt is natural, therefore, to suppose, that she made choice of Pola, as the place of her residence during the absence of her husband; that being the most convenient spot for her to receive news from him with dispatch ; while, by its contiguity to the sea, it afforded greater facility for escape, if fortune should prove uupropitious. It likewise appears, by the [vedestal of a statue of Severus, which was found at Pola, that this emperor had some predilection for that town; that he resided there, or that at least the inhabitants had some attachment towards him; all which reasons might have induced Julia Domna so take up her residence in the same place. —Thus, on comparing the different historical accounts, if it be true that a Julia had a palace at Pola, it was Undoubtedly the latter, who gave rise to the tradition which seems to be preserved amongst the people. I low ever this may be, the only remains of the palace in question, are a few scattered stones; to winch little attention would be paid, if the name given to the place which they occupy, did not excite some curiosity; and as there is no longer any of the architecture to be discovered, it is not possible to come to any decision as to the period when it was built; the style being totally effaced. PH IN ISTItlA AND DAI.MATIA. 31 But this is not the case with the triumphal arch, which is in perfect preservation; and which is now considered as one of the gates of the town, under the name of Porta A urea. This fine monument consists of a large single arch, ornamented with Corinthian columns, which support the entablature;—it is not one of those specimens of the homage rendered to great men, at the ex pence of the public treasury, so general in the early ages; hut, it is simply a testimony of affection on the part of a w ife, towards her husband. 'Hie inscription announces, that Salvia Posluma, at her OWfl expence, caused it to be erected to Serghis Lapidus, edile, and military trihuneof the twenty-ninth legion. Atthetop may be seen three bases, on which statues, or busts, were formerly placed; and to judge from the inscriptions, on that in the middle formerly stood the bust or figure of the Roman, to whom the monument was consecrated. To the right was that of his father, Lucius Sergius, edile and duumvir; and to the left, that of his uncle, Cneius Sergius, who was likew ise edile and duumvir for five years. It is on the interior front, towards the town, that these inscriptions are perceptible; and on this side, the architecture is entirely exposed; and a correct opinion may be formed of it. The external facade, that is to say, the front on the country side, must have been equally rich; but, it is obstructed by the old wrills of the town, which were built at a later period; so that there are only distinguishable, the capitals of the columns, and a pait of the arch. This structure exhibits a striking proof of the power of a people, amongst whom private individuals could raise such splendid monuments to the memory of their relatives! The church of Pola, which, according to the Italian custom, is called // Ditomo, (The Dome, or Cathedral,) apparently occupies the spot, on which stood some ancient temple; for, at every step in its environs, we found the ruins of columns, capitals, frizes, pedestals, tombs, and inscriptions. The latter have been described by Spoil, with great accuracy, so that it is useless here to repeat them ; but we shall refer the reader, with confidence, to his account of them. It was not in his first journey to Pola, that M. Cassas drew the views of the various monuments: his companions being more anxious to see than to investigate, surveyed them with that sort of curiosity, which soon becomes weary when it is not supported by a love of research; and they speedily pressed him to depart. They therefore re-embarked; and returning the way they had come, passed before Rovigno, where they were obliged to bring to, by the contrary wind known in the Mediterranean by the bottle of the Sirocco. When it had ceased, they found themselves becalmed in front of the little town of Pirano. It is built on a peninsula, formed by the gulph of Lagona and that of Trieste. CASSAS'S TRAVELS Its appearance is very picturesque; a tolerably extensive range ui houses, elegantly built, runs along the shore, ami ase washed hi the waves; while on a hillock, almost in the centre of the town, the church makes a majestic appearance; having a tower or steeple of a considerable elevation, terminating in a point, and detached from the body of the building. The g<'thic walls of an old castle are also perceptible to the left, on the summit of a higher inoimlani, the steep declivity of which extends to the ex* treinity of the town. The curtains and embattled towers of this ;:nc'en1 fortification have a strikiugeffect on the landscape. The top of this hill contains an agreeable mixture of trees of a beautiful green colour, interspersed amongst the ruins and rocks. A large1 chain of much higher and barren mountains,of a greyish colour, terminate the. horizon; and by their roughness, give additional interest to the plains in the fore ground The wind having sprung up, our voyagers continued their route, and landed at Capo d'lstrnr, where they stopped a few hours. This town was known in the earliest ages by the name of .Egida ; am! is supposed, as well as Pola, to have been founded by the Col-chidians. Pallas was its protecting divinity. In the course of time, it abandoned the name ofxEgida, and assumed that of Ju.s-tiuopoiis, because it is said iheemperor .Justin,or,I ustiuus. improved it. J une!., however, confess, that 1 have; much diilicultv to con-ct i\e, by vslml predilection Justin could havte been the In nelactor of this town. When he reigned in the east, the western empire had become extinct in the person of Augustulus. The successors of Udoacer reigned i'1 Italy.; and it was only under the empire of Justinian, the nephew of Justin, that .N arses and lielisarius re-eon-queietl the last-mentioned country and its isles; it therefore ap-p. ars tome much more probable, that .Kgidawas indebted for its embellishments, to the emperor Justinian, rather than to Justin. Having been born ru the country of Thrace, of low parents, Justin could have had no motive for embellishing a town, so very distant from the place of his birth ; and to which he could not give his name, because it did not belong to him; while, on the contrary, Jus-, tiuiaii might have taken pride in embellishing his conquests; ami history informs us that, having restored, by the power of his arms a momentary splendour to the Empire, he delighted in improving many towns in Europe and Asia. Besides, Justinian, was born in Dardaniu; but it is not precisely known, whether this event occurred in the J)ardauÍa, which formed a part of Asia-JVlinor ; in Dardania in Europe, which was part of I ' pper Meesia; ur ill another 1 )ardania which was situated in Dabnatia, and which, consequently, was more nearly connected with the ./Egida of Istria. Erocopius, in the first chapter of the fourth book of bis ki Treatise on Edifices," informs us, that, in European IN ISTRIA AND DALMATIA. Dardama, Justinian caused a town to be repaired, called Clpiana; and that he founded another in its vicinity, which he called Justinopolis, from the name of Justin, his uncle, which may be supposed to be the Justinopolis in question; and in this respect the testimony of Procopius ought to have much weight, since he wrote during the reign of Justinian, was honoured with the particular friendship of this prince, and was secretary to Belisai ins. Bui Olivier is the only writer who has asserted, that this tow u owed its name to the emperor Justin; and he rests his opinion upon an inscription, which, he says, seems to indicate this fact; hut of which no one knows any thing except himself The name of Justinopolis, however, has been totally abandoned, for that of Capo d'lstria, which precisely indicates the situation of that town; it being on the very spot on which stood the ancient iEgida. It is one of the largest places in that part of Istria which formerly belonged to Venice. It stands upon an isle, which has been united to the continent by a causeway half-a-mile in length. The Venetians took it by assault, in Q3£j but, in the 14th century, the Genoese recaptured it;—at length, in 1478, it was restored to the I republic of St. Mark, from which it has not since been separated. It is a bishopric, dependent upon the archbishopric of Udina; and, notwithstanding its small extent, it contains forty churches or chapels, exclusive of the cathedral, and has thirty convents. Its salt-pits and vineyard furnish the most considerable articles of its commerce : and its air, though not very salubrious, is less dangerous to health, than that of the other maritime towns of Istria. The impatience of M. Cassas and his companions to arrive at Trieste> prevented them from making a long stay at Capo d'lstria; and, though the passage from one place to the other be inconsiderable, the calm detained them for some time, so that they could not enter the port of Trieste, till two o'clock on the morning of the 1st of July. They did not land till seven; at which hour, the Office of Health was opened, and their papers were examined. M. Cassas repaired to the baron de I'illoni, the lieutenant-general of the police, to whom he had letters of recommendation, in which that officer was desired to afford him every accommodation for taking views in the port and its vicinity, without interruption. This magistrate gave him the most distinguished reception, lavishing upon him all the politeness which a well-informed man shews with so much pleasure to persons of genius. At Trieste, the companions of his voyage quitted M. Cassas, as their affairs required their presence at V (nice; but our artist, from a conviction of the utility of his journey, if he could visit Hahnatia, endeavoured to find, and easily nut with new associates: he consequently deferred taking the views of Trieste till hi* cassas.] I;' 34 Casras's tbavi.is return; arid having persuaded M. Hertrand, then French consul, the sen of the prince of I'mis, who was post-master general, and M. Urappin, an advocate and man of letters, lo in f dfupaisj him, he re-embarked at the expiration of three dam :—but in order to avoid a repetition of the same subject, we shall here give an account of the observations which were made by our travellers al a subsequent period, as well as the remarks which relate In Tola. The House of Austria, as w as observed at the commencement of this work, possessed apart of Istria ; while the I'epuhlic of Venice held under its dominion the major part of the maritime coast. Trieste is the most considerable town in this Austrian part, which is more frequently called the Littoral. It succeeded the ancient Tergcste; or rather the edifices, by being renewed in the progress of ages, have gradually replaced those of the ancient city. It is therefore not a modern town, rebuilt on the scite of an ancient city, which had been destroyed by some terres-tnal revolution' or political event. It rise's in an amphilhentrical form to the summit of a mountain, the base of which is washed by the sea. A citadel, built on this summit, commands the whole city, which is divided into the upper and the lower town. The harbour of Trieste, which is situated at the bottom of the gulph thai bears its name, was for a length of turn only :i simple an-thorage place. The court of Vienna, amidst the numerous views it continually had for its aggrandizement, always was most anxious to acquire importance amongst the maritime powers; and cult queiitly wished to possess a sea-port. The empress Maria Theresa, embracing still more ardentlv a project, of which her predecessors had only a presentiment of thr utilitv, without putting it in execution, resolved to avail horaoii of the favourable situation of Trieste; and to make it an important point, where the advantages of COmmerte might be united with those of an imperial navy. In the year 17.">0, the plans were formed, and the works commenced. Favourable situations were selected for the construction of vessels, and (locks were speedily established; magazines were also built, for various concomitant purposes, and these were succeeded by rope-walks, forges, &c. In short, Maria Theresa neglected nothing which might insure with rapidity to this new establishment all the splendour which she had designee! it to enjoy; and shortly after, the' Austrian Hag appearing for the first time- at sea, apprised Lureq>e of the existence of Trieste. The empress, however, would have but imperfectly fulfilled, the object she had in view, if she had ne>t directed lowards this place1 the channels of commerce. She' therefore; te>e>k care te> be--stou upon it the most liberal privileges; and particularly, to declare IN I STRIA AM) 1) A L M A TIA. the port to be bee bom all duties. To facilitate its connection with tin; Tevanl, she, nineteen years afterwards, caused to be built, a vast and commodious Lazaretto, where the crews of the ships might be under quarantine. She also gradually encouraged those trades and arts, which are more intimately connected with navigation. There were formed in Trieste, manufactories of cables, sail-cloth, anchors, and all kinds of arms, founderies for cannon, balls, fcc. Magazines, for the production of articles purely commercial, were also established; such as velvet, wax-candles, soap, &c; liqueurs also became aii important branch of trade; and the number of bottles now exported, annually, is supposed to amount to f)00,000. In 1707, an iusurancc-companv was formed there, the capital of which was estimated at 300,000 florins; and in 1 770, there were supposed to be upwards of :J0 first-rate who'esale commercial houses. With respect to its territorial productions, Trieste has nothing to be proud of, except its white-wines; the quality of which is esteemed, and the purchase easy; but this article, as well as iruits, walnuts, chesnuts, oranges, lemons, figs, &,c. which the country produces in abundance, form only a trivial portion of its trade; which rests more1 essentially upon its manufactures, or on the foreign merchandizes for which it is the depot. It was thus, that Trieste arose from the obscurity in which it had been plunged, particularly during the time that it especially belonged to the bishops, whose authority may be traced to as early a peiiod as the sixth century. They were suffragans of Aquileia, when istria entirely belonged to the patriarch of that metropolis. Nevertheless, Lothaire, king of Italy, deprived the patriarch of Trieste and gave it with its territory, in full sovereignty, to his private bishop, together with the right of coining money. Afterwards, the- bishops sold to the inhabitants their jurisdiction, or legal authority, for .500 silver marks: at length, after having formed for sometime, a part of Carniola, it was separated from it; and now, its bishops, who take the title of counts, a re suffragans of the archbishop of Coertz. 'Lie inhabitants of the environs of Trieste have not, in general, the same propensity to idleness, as those of Venetian Istria. Being less Italian, tiny partake more of the manners and physical constitution of the people of Carniola; among whom thev are indeed placed by several geographers, who consider Austrian Tstria as the fifth division of the dutchy of Carniola. They possess the robustness and manners of mountaineers; and, in fact, all this ;part is replete with mountains of an enormous size, the summits ol which are covered with snow throughout the year. These men are strong and vigorous; formed to be supported by gross and frugal nutriment, and accustomed to sleep on the ground,. r 2 36 CVssA.s's TUAVKLS they pass without inconvenience, from the excessive cold whirli resigns on the mountains, to the suffocating heat which prevails in the vallies. They go with the breast exposed, the feet naked'; and yet, brave the chilling cold ami the asperities of the rocks. Tin- mountains are either covered with fine woods, or are entirely barren, according to their situations; but the vallies are Constantly so fertile, that they afford two harvests in a year; so that after a crop of wheat, rye, or barley, they sow buckwheat, which ripens before winter, as well as millet, which they gene-i:i 11\ cultivate on the lauds that have produced hemp. Besides these crops,which abundantly supplv the consumption of Trieste, the) also rear a great number of cattle on the excellent pasturage of their vallies; while the territory irt general furnishes had, steel, iron, and copper for the navy; honey, vipers, 8tc. for pharmacy, and numerous cargoes of oils, resin, and cheese. Thiscountry, from the variety of steep mountains, inh rseetcd by deep and delightful vallies; and the union of savage nature in all her honor, with civilized nature resplendent in agriculture and the arts, presents the traveller, at each step, with scites wonderfully picturesque, as may be imagined from the plates given with this volume; though, to form a just conception of the involuntary astonishment, terror, and admiration,as well as of the pleasure which the traveller derives from the contemplation of such vast objects, it would be necessary to have ocular evidence of the immensity of those lofty mountains, to observe their rude fractures, their gigantic masses, and enormous projections; the points of which, curvated and suspended in the air, Beem to threaten, every instant, to fall into the abysses; and, nevertheless, stand for ages in their motionless state of terrific equilibrium. It would be necessary also to examine those profound grottoes and caverns, into which the rays of the sun never penetrate ; to cast the glare of llambi aux over the limpid brilliancy of the innumerable sta-lactitics, with which their paths and vaults are embellished; to hear the formidable roar of those torrents and rivers, which fall from the tops of the mountains; and, rolling like thunder over 1 lie broken precipices, rebound, collect, and precipitate themselves into the abuses and gulphs, in which they are lost; and above all to behold the precipice, whence the liuecea darts its foaming waves, iu a perpendicular direction, to the depth of 600 feet, before they descend into the cavities of the globe. Let us add to these landscapes, which sometimes agreeably permit the view to filtrate, if we may so express ourselves, across the vast chasms iu the rocks, and then to be lost in the distant vapours of the vallies of (Joricia, or beneath the azure horizon of the Adriatic sea ; or which, on other occasions, more gravely retain it captive IN I3TR1A AND DALMATIA. §7 before those vast and sombre draperies of pines and oaks, which have for ages covered the summits of the mountains; let us, I say, add to the richness of these views the singular contrast of the mouldering towers of sonic Teutonic castles, the antique towers of which extend to the clouds, with the villa of the peaceable merchant, the elegant architecture of which seems, at the bottom of the valley, only to domineer over the (lowers that grow ai'ound it. Let us also add, the astonishing alliance of an eternal spring, whose breath caresses the enamelled hillocks, with the rigorous winters, whose icy sceptre- presses on the summits of the menui-tains; the; delightful voice e)f the nightingale, concealed in the orange tree, with the acute accent of tlm eagle, which proudly soars thtbugh the currents of the'air; themonotony of the echos which repeat the bleating of the gnats on the rocks, and the- dull towihg of'the bull on the banks of the silver nvidets; and after all these comparisems, however insensible may be the mind of tht traveller to the beauties of nature, and though, corrupted by the habits of polished life, he may observe almost with indifference the majesty of the Creator, as revealed in these grand and extraordinary e-iiTumstauees, ye-t he- will be struck with pity for the man who can be so blind to happiness as to confine his pleasures within the narrow anel peurile circle- e)f palaces, while the earth invites him to enjoyments, at the magnificent theatres of her sublime irregularities :—enjov'incuts which are far more appropriate to the dignity Of his nature-. In general the industry of the inhabitants of Trieste is not equalled amongst those in the country part of Venetian [stria. Trie tatter are excessively idle. The soil seems only desirous of offering its produce; and one cannot but lament the apathy e>f the people, on observing them refuse- the invitations of nature. The fecundity of the sea, which would appear to be reserved only for nations who do not share the- bounties of the earth, here; affords an unusual abundance, and furnishes an agreeable nutriment to the lazy devourers, who obtain it without fatigue, since their fishermen nee-el scarcely depart from the shores in pursuit of their avocation. Hence oil and wine are." the only articles which man requires from the soil in those? cantons, ami these it affords him with prodigality. Both are held in much esteem : the wines are of a particularly excellent quality, ha\e ati agri-cable taste, and possess an unusual degree of strength; while their low price renders them attainable by all classes of Society, and the people often avail themselves of this facility by drinking them to excess. The abuse of these excellent wines, and the repugnance of the- Italians of Istria to all kinds of exercise, cause them to be afflicted with the gout at an early period of their lives; and if SB CASSASP TRAVELS many lame persons be observable, this malady is simply to be attributed to the immoderate use of spirituous liquors, and not, as .some persons have supposed, to a mal-conformation peculiar amongst them. One of the greatest advantages of Istria, is its valuable forests. From these the republic of Venice derives the greater part of its timber for ship-building; but their extent, perhaps, contributes to the general unhealthiness of the whole of this country, particularly the Venetian part. It is supposed that this kind of vegetable wall clunks the progress of the currents of air from the east-miilb-east, and from the north-north-east, and prevents the dispersion of the unwholesome exhalations which arise from the marshy grounds, that run along the sea-shores, and far into the country. These malignant vapours which are constantly disengaged by the heat of the climate, supposing even that they are agitated by the south and south-west winds, and driven towards the interior of the continent, vet as they do not rise far above the soil, they cannot pass the barriers formed against them by the forests, and consequently become stagnant in the vallics. Here it must be admitted they increase the fertility of the ground, but they likewise diffuse the germs of disease. In order, however, to render these districts valuable in every point of view, it would perhaps only be necessary to decree, upon principle. of philosophy and humanity, the destruction of all the forests; or, instead of cutting them promiscuously, as has hitherto been the practice, th y might be regularly hewn, and a passage opened for the currents of air, which would expel the miasmata of the marshes towards the Adriatic (Julph. From such precaution it may be presumed that this country would derive material benefit, anil its condition might be still further ameliorated by the attentive observations of active philosophers. It has been remarked, that in different parts of Europe, where tire people have complained of the unhealthiness of the climate, their complaints diminished in proportion as they demolished their surrounding woods, or when circumstances compelled them to effect their entire destruction. The climate of Istria, however, is not so fatal to the native inhabitants as it is to foreigners ; for amongst the former we frequently meet with old men: and if an almost invincible propensity to idleness did not. take possession of them; if labour were to assist and develope the vigorous faculties of their well-formed frame; if agriculture, by receiving greater attention, were to afford them more wholesome nutriment; if, like all la/y people, they were not to accustom themselves to the use of spirituous liquors; in short, if the police, by preventive regula- IN ISTRIA AND DALMATI A, 39 tious, were to check so pernicious a propensity, there is no doubt that their endemic diseases would gradually disappear, and that even by the little attention that has hitherto been paid to their extirpation they would no longer be considered as incurable. M. Cassas, as has been already observed, left Trieste with the French Gm.sul, M. Bertram!, the sou of the Prince of Pars, and M. Grappin.—The latter, however, was the only companion whose constancy did not fail, and he attended our artist into .Dalmatia. The two first-mentioned became fatigued by their voyage at sea, and, finding themselves obliged to renounce their enterprise, they separated at Fiume, and took the road for Trieste bv land. On quitting Trieste, our traveller took his direction a second time towards Pola, which his new companion had a desire to see, and sailing along the coast of Istria with an excellent wind, they soon arrived at Citta-Nuova, a small and inconsiderable town in the Venetian part. It is very unhealthy and not populous. It is a suffragant bishopric of Aquileia. He only stopped here a short time, to see the bishop, with whom he was on friendly terms, and who undertook to give him recommendations to some learned men in Dalmatia, as well as to his uncle, who resided at Zara. The wind continuing favourable he, embarked in haste, repassed llovigno, where were lying four galleys belonging to the Serene Republic, and by six in the (-veiling he again reached Pola, after having coasted in less than seventeen hours upwards of eighty Italian miles, the distance between this town and Trieste. The advocate Barbota, to whom he had letters of introduction, received him in a manner which reflected equal honour on his politeness and his love for the arts. UN J. Cassas employed the remainder of the day in shewing his companion the antiquities of Pola, and the next morning, at four o'clock, he re-embarked. On leaving the harbour the pilot pointed out the wreck of a Venetian vessel which had been lost a tew days before on the shoals, tvlth which this coast abounds, a melancholy example to mariners of the danger which here attends them. The wind, which had hitherto been so favourable, now became adverse, and it was necessary to tack a long time before they could double tin- promontory; indeed it was not without infinite fatigue that our voyagers succeeded in entering the dangerous gulph of Camera or Tiume, which some geographers spell Quarnero :—This is the gulph which Pliny calls Sums Vlana-firtts. But scarcely had they doubled the promontory, before tl" \ were assailed by a terrible storm, the gusts of which came 40 CASSAs's TRAVELS so rapidly upon them, that they were in imminent danger of foundering, not having time to lull" up the sadlaj and finding it impossible to gam the small creeks on their left. They Mere consequently obliged to abandon themselves 1o all the fury of the sea, upder the conduct of a captain, whose ignorance and alarm rendered their situation still more critical ; and it was not till they had passed the day in a state of the utmost anxiety, that they succeeded in taking refuge in the little port of St. Marie, where they thought themselves happy in being enabled to pass the night in some miserable iishermi us huts. These kmd of storms or hurricanes frequently occur in the (iidph ol Carnero. The mountains of the Friule, intersecting the peninsula of Istria, terminate at the promontory which is situated at the entrance of the Culph. They also oppose a barrier to the north winds, which, striking against them diagonally, acquire by tin resistance, a more considerable refractive force, and, thus passing obliquely into the Culph of Caruero, where they meet with no opposition, they burst forth with all their vioh lice. The frequency of these occurrences has rendered this sea so terrible to the mariners of the coast, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring countries have been so often witnesses of their fatal effects, that their credulity induces them to account for the causes of such physical intemperance, by the most ridiculous tales, According to these people the storms are excited by sorcerers ; and in this respect, each individual has his own story. That which most generally prevails is, that the sorcerers when they are enraged, which, it appears, often happens, kindle great fifes in their caverns in the mountains, and that die earth, from the pain occasioned by them, becomes aillicted, and raises such COmt motions in the air, as cause the destruction of those against whom the wrath of the magicians is directed.—But as there are no direct proofs that these gentry bore such ill-will ton aids M. Cassas, the reader can attach what credit he may please to the above explanation of the tempest; of Carnero. < )ur travellers were detained by the bad weather at port St. Marie, all night and the following day. The guards of a neighbouring fort would not, without .much difficulty, permit them to land, under the pretext that they had no certificates of health, but they found that this was only an artifice usually adopted to extort money from stisingers : a few sequins, therefore, soon abated their rigour, and they even undertook to go to the huts of the peasantry in the environs, and procure them provisions, which, without the assistance of these men, it would have been impossible for them to obtain in an arid and almost uninhabited country. in istria and dalmatia. 41 On the second day, the tempest having subsided, they re-embarked, but were obliged to tack continually, being always in sight of Mont Mayor or Mount Major. After beating for a long time ofTthe coast of the isles of Ossuero and Cherso, on the starboard side, they entered a small gulph, dependent upon the latter isle, and cast anchor in the cre< k of Forana, in which position they remained the whole of the next day; and it was only with infinite trouble that they succeeded in obtaining, by dmt of money, a little wine from a convent of Franciscans, the only respectable place in these cantons, where the natives are almost savages. At length the wind having become more moderate, tin - were fortunate enough to drop out of the channel in which they had suffered so much since they entered the Gulph of. Carnero, and at six o'clock ill the evening they lauded at Fiume. the isle of Cherso, at which they made a short stay, belongs to the Venetians, and gives its name to the capital town. It is remarkable for the extreme smailness of its horses, which, however, are not deficient in vigour or Spirit, and are ot a graceful and delicate form. It is one of the largest isles of the Archipelago which extends along the coasts of Dahnatia as far as Ragusa. It is a hundred and fifty Italian miles in circumference, and its climate is wholesome. The soil, though uncommonly stony, is very fertile, and is watered by a number of rivulets. It produces no wheat, but its cattle, wine, honey, and oils, are much esteemed, and in these respects it, was a very important place to the Republic of Venice. In the isle there is a lake of a con-siderable size, being seven miles in circumference, and the inhabitants assured our travellers that it abounded in fish, and that amongst the rest, it contained certain families of the finny tribe, which seemed to belong more particularly to the sea, which gives rise to the opinion that it has a subterraneous communication with the salt water. Fiume belongs to the House of Austria: the governor of this place received M. Censas with great attention. A large road which the Emperor Charles VI, caused to be made from Carlstadt to this town, has rendered it extremely flourishing, by making it the staple of all the productions of Hungary, which are exported by sea. It formed a part of Cunióla; but about the middle of the seventeenth century, it was divided from that duchy, and became a separate government. It is situated at the mouth of the Fiumara, and the narrow valley, at the commencement of which it stands, is particularly fertile in wines and excellent fruits, amongst which its figs hold a distinguished rank, it is agreeably built, and has a numerous population. Its churches are magnificent, and its port is well frequented. There is a sugar-refinery here, which supplies the whole of the Austrian States with that t'ass as.] g CASSAS*S TRAVELS article. Its wax-nlanufactory is equally remarkable ; and these two important establishments occupy many hands. It also contains several considerable commercial houses, and, in short, it is so valuable to the court of Vienna, that the government has lavished on it all kinds of e^mptioris. It was here that the Consul Bertrand and the son of the Prince of Pars separated from M. Cassas, to return to Trieste :—the adventures at Camero having disgusted them with a maritime excursion. As to our artist, his love for the arts rendered him above fear for his personal safely ; and having hired an armed boat vvidi three vigorous seamen, he left Finnic in company with M. Grappin, on the 11th June, and after a voyage of five hours, they stopped to dine al a convent in the isle of Veglia, or Vcggia-M. Cassas did not find that this isle corresponded with the praises bestowed on it by different geographers, and particularly with the account given of it in the Encyclopaedia. Tar from being as rich as they have represented it, the territory appeared to be dry, rocky, badly cultivated, and interspersed only with shrubs; ami though it produces wines and silk, the quantity is far short ofwnat has been stated. The only town here bears the same name as the ide. Its port is tolerably commodious, and the galleys from Venice generally belay m it- It was here that 1VI. Cassas first heard tin-Illyrian dialect spoken ; and he observed, that the breviaries of the priests were written in that language. The name which the Sclavonians give to this isle is Kar, and the authors of the (Trench) Encyclopaedia suppose it to be the Curica of Ptolemy and Pliny. It is the same isle which Strabo has denominated Cyracliea, and is remarkable inasmuch as it has torn nil for a long time a separate state. Count John Frangipani ceded it in the fifteenth century to the Republic of Venice. After passing the heat of the day at Veglia, our two voyagers, left it ami proceeded, having on their right the isles of Urbo, Selva, Melado, sometimes called Zapuntello, and Uglinn: to their left were the isle of Pago, the Punta Dura, fee. These isles, according to Constantine Porphyrogcnetus, wet* formerly inhabited : at present some people reside in them ; but notwithstanding their exertions to cultivate them, their produce is insignificant. The soil is so stony, and water so scarce, that corn will not thrive there ; the olive-trees can scarcely take root, and the grapes are rare and meagre on the vines. There is found here an abundance of the .same marble which is contained in the high mountains of Italy, principally at Terracina, Piperna, and the environs of Caserta. It is hard, whitish, calcareous, and splits in the mortar like Hint, It is but slightly affected by the artificial acids. When polished, the impression of the air acts but slowly on its surface, and it is only after many centuries that IN 1st ll i A A N i> 9 A i. m \ V 1 A, it becomes rough,and that the grains of which it is composed are distinguishable. The learned Fortis supposes that the Dalmatian isles are the melancholy remains of a country which was once tormented and partly destroyed by some great terrestrial commotions; and he believes that he can recognize iu the ostracites which he has observed, the matter which composes those extensive strata of calcareous stone, which he considers as the foundation of all the isles iu question, particularly as the osLracites do not belong to the present seas in this quarter, but could only have been deposited by an extensive aud different ocean, that at one period covered the soil. The most fertile spot amongst them is undoubtedly that of Tglian, or Isola Crossa. It would produce every thing in abundance, if it were not, like the rest, unprovided with water. The inhabitants have none but what they collect in cisterns; and the richer or more delicate individuals, who cannot accustom themselves to this kind, are obliged to send for it from the Continent, The Ugliauites are distinguished from the other insular inhabitants by their mild and amiable manners, their caudour, and their hospitable character. The Italian maimers have taken less root in the isle than on the coasts of the Continent. Even the costume has little resemblance to that of the other Venetian possessions ; that of the women is in some degree analagous to the dress of the Morlachiau females, which have already been described. .Notwithstanding the dryness of the land, the winged insects are so numerous, as to be insupportable, aud it is diffudt to protect the'fruits and other productions of the earth against their ravages. The lllyrian snails, mentioned by Pliny, and which the Romans considered as one of the most delicate luxuries of their tables, are found here in great abundance. It is known that Fulvius Hcrpinus had at hie country-seat several reservoirs, or beds, in which he reared these species of insects for the purpose alluded to. Most of the passages to these isles contain numerous rocks, which render, their navigation difficult and dangerous : but what is even worse, these rocks afford refuge to the banditti who infest the seas iu this region, and who conceal themselves in the recesses during the day, in order to avoid the search made after them by the Venetian gallies, while at night they board and capture such barks as risk the navigation of the channel without being armed. Our travellers were alarmed lest they should have woeful experience of the audacity of these marauders. We have already said that, iu order to avoid the heat of the day, they did not quit Yeglia till seven o'clock in the 6V( ning. Those who are unacquainted with the beauty of the evenings in Italy, can form no idea of the spectacle afforded by nature in Ci 'I these regions, when the sun has sunk beneath the horizon. Tlie absence of this luminary causes a cessation of heat; the calorific clouds disperse, the sea and the mountains towards the west are deprived of their purple tinge, and the sky exhibits nothing but one vast expanse of azure, beneath which innumerable zephyrs gently move; while every thing adds to the majestic silence of night, as it gradually advances, embalmed with the odour of delicious flowers. At this charming period every thing tends to produce the most pleasing and voluptuous sensations, and the expanded mind gratefully contemplates the magnificence of the universe. At such a time, it seems scarcely possible that wicked men should be employed in preparing to commit their crimes; but the human heart is corrupt, and this painful reflection deprived our travellers, in a great degree, of the pleasure they would have derived from such an evening as that which we have depicted. In the midst of the most sublime spectacle of the omnipotence of the Creator, they were obliged to recollect that they wue men, and to think about their personal security. They accordingly put into a small creek, formed by rocks, where they landed; and, tearing off a number of branches from some contiguous trees, they spread them over their boat, which, by this means, together with the obscurity afforded by the shade of the rocks, was rendered scarcely perceptible. They then retired to a short dis* tame, and concealed themselves amongst some bushes. It was now eleven o'clock, and the pale light of the moon had succeeded to the mild darkness of the evening, which slowly approaches towards the west, where the twilight continues to linger till a late hour. All nature was enveloped in silence, and one might figuratively be said to hear the approach of night. Even the tide only transmitted, at long intervals, a few gentle waves towards the chasms in the rocks, and the monotonous harmony of their motion was almost lost in the immensity of space ; when suddenly a faint noise was heard at a distance, which excited the vigilance, of our travellers, who soon ascertained that it was occasioned by regular strokes of the oar. The sound gradually increased, as did the alarm of our party, who knew not whether those who approached were friends or enemies. At fust they were in hopes that the strangers would pass, but they were deceived, for the bark approached nearly alongside of their own, though it was not perceived by the crew: at length they landed, and began to pry about them, while their arms Struck against the hospitable bush which concealed our adventurers. Their sensations may be more easily conceived than described; —the slightest motion, sigh, or inspiration, might cause their destruction. In a short time they heard the banditti swearing at each other; fi They are not here," said the plunderers," they hu\ e. IN 1 S t111 A AND DAI MATI A. 45 gjoifte farther on, -ami we hare missed them." They, in this strain, regretted the loss of their prey, and that they had not befell able to shed Mood; they accused each other <0f tardiness and negligence, and each endeavoured to acquit himself of blame, on such a noble occasion: indeed, it was a chance that a civil war had not broken out amongst them, because thev had lost the opportunity of committing a Crime, while our travellers were the un-forrunale objects of their search; and, at this instant, they were close against them! At last, they resolved to put off again in pursuit of the fugitives, expressing their hopes that thev should overtake them; and vowing vengeance against them for the fatigue thev had experienced. With this intent they n-embar.< ! ; and the friendly oar soon dissipated the fears of our party, and delivered them from any farther information of the projects of the banditti. This adventure was sufficient to disgust them with nocturnal navigation; "while it tended to deter them from passing" the night at a distance from inhabited places: they, therefore, impatiently waited for the return of day; and, as soon as it appeared, they gladly quitted a rock, at which they had run a chance of terminating their adventures. They continued, during the day, to crui/e along the coast, the aspect of which was as wild and desolate as can be conceived, till they arrived at Zara. Itocks prOJ< ciing at intervals barren and shapeless thickets, no soil nor cultivation, the heavy verdure of aromatic plants, mastic shrubs, fennel, hemlock, and rue; a burning sun, producing a degree of heat almost insupportable, and the remembrance of the dangers they had escaped ovcrJ night ;—such were the subject and the reflections which, during fourteen hours fatigued their eyes, their senses, and their itua; 'nation. At length, they reached Zara, where they waited upon Dr. Stratico and Captain Gerousi, two enlightened and amiable men; who, by the most affable reception, endeavoured to m ■■ them forget tlie storms of Carnero, and the pirates of the Puuta Dura. Zara is the most considerable place which was possessed by the Venetians on the Continent, and it is a bulwark, against which, the Turks have Often made violent, though useless; efforts. The nearer you approach to this town, the more distant seem the isles which skirt the coast; the channel becomes wider, and the navigation less dangerous, particularly for large vessels. It was known to the Romans by the name of Jadera. According'to Pliny and Ptolemy it was a Roman colony, and the c atal of Laburnia, that is to say, of that space of country comprised between the rivers of Zermagne and Kerka, called by them, the 'Jfdattius and the Tttius. In the middle age it bore the name of Diadora, and it is the only town which has survived both the hand of time, and the wars which so long ravaged these unfortunate countries• M. Castas dots not coincide with the opinion of Fortis, who asserts, that in the progress of centuries it has rather risen to prosperity than continued to decline; for, on the contrary, every thing indicates that it was once more considerable than it is at present, but particularly the ruins of certain public monuments, which, from their nature, must have been situated within the town, though their remains now lie at a distance without the walls; which are not more than two miles in circumference, and contain scarcely five thousand inhabitants. But however this may be, Zara, hy its situation, is a town of the first importance. It is built on a tongue of land, or peninsula, which was only attached to the Continent by an isthmus of about 30 paces in width, and which is now intersected by ditches; so that Zara no longer has any communication with the main land, except by draw-bridge!!, and is entirely ¿111-rounded by sea-water. At the head of the bridge* just mentioned is a fort, which renders the approach difficult. Its citadel, the fosses of which are cut in the rock, is excellent; and there have been added three bastions, which are countermined, lined with fret-stone, and covered with counterscarps. The curtains are defended with excellent ravelins or half-moon*.-; and the whole is surrounded with covered ways ami glaccs. This fortification was the residence of the supcrintendant-general of Dal-matia. The Venetians acquired the above-mentioued town at the beginning of the lath century, at the time of the fraudulent negotiation, which was entered into with them by Ladislas, king of Naples, who likewise pretended to be king of Hungary, hi 1498, Bajazet, emperor of the Turks, attacked it with success; but the Venetians soon re-took it, since which time it has been subject to their dominion. In 1154 its bishopric was changed into an archbishopric, whose suffragans are the bishops of Arbe, Vegia, and Ossuero. Our readers are, dmibtless, surprised to hear of bishops in such little isles as those in question; but no one is ignorant with what prodigality such dignities were formerly lavished in Italy. The public buildings in Zura are. mostly magnificent, particularly the arsenals on land and water, the magazines or warehouses on the quuv, the civil and military hospitals, the barracks, and the palaces of the superintcudaut, who lias two; one in the town, and the other in the citadel already mentioned, iu which last, he chieily resides. The port is tolerably large, affords a convenient anchorage for vessels, and is defended by strong butteries. * IN ISTRIA AND D A LM ATI A« 47 Amongst a great number of churches at Zura, the cathedral is almost the only one which deserves attention; but there is scarcely one of them which the best painters of the Venetian school did not think worthy of decorating with the masterpieces of their art. The cathedral Contains two pictures; one by Tintoret, and the other by the elder Pahna. There is another by the last-mentioned master, at St. Dominick's. The organs of this church were painted by S< hiavoni. The church of Santa Maria is still more richly decorated: besides a picture by the elder Pahna, it has a virgin, by Diamantini; a St. Francis, by Tintoret: and a St. Anthony, by Padua: but, at St Catherine's, one is particularly struck with a magnificent picture, by the celebrated Titian. There is, likewise, in this tower, a great object of admiration for devotees. It is the entire corpse of a Holy Jew, and not of a Holy Catholic; for it is the body of old Simeon, who was so famous for singing the Nunc dimiith, in Latin, in the Temple of Jerusalem, where they Were always accustomed to sing in Hebrew* It is not known who conveyed him from Judea to Zar.t; but it is certain that he did come, for the priests and the people say so!—and why not? If a connoisseur in sanctified relics were able to distinguish the body of old Simeon amongst the rubbish of a town which Vespasian and Titus laid in ruins, I know no reason why he might not have sent it into Dahnatia. The one cucumstance is not more difficult to believe than the other. However, this skeleton is inclosed in a fine case, the pannels of which are of crystal, with those who know not what crystal is; and of Venice glass, with those who leave good eyes. These namels are in silver-gilt frame-work. The body is exposed to the devotion of the multitude on certain days in the year, after which it is carefully concealed. Except on the festivals, it is never shewn to any persons but the supreme magistrates of Venice, or to sovereign princes who may come to Zura. is this done to improve the princes, or to benefit the 'saint? Perhaps both; but the canons and sextons certainly derive most advantage from the exhibition. The environs of Zara arc in a tolerable state of cultivation. Formerly, no person was permitted to plant trees in teas than the radius of a league from the fort; but since the incursions of the Turks have become less frequent, and the alarm of the Venetian Republic has in this respect ceased, the decree in question is not regarded; and several of the inhabitants have their country-houses, With very agreeable gardens. Society here is regulated by that of Venice, they have the same manners, the same etiquette, and the same luxuries. Literature, also, is not unknown in this town, Which has an academy, amongst the members of which are 4S CASSAS'S TB A V ELS several distinguished men of science; and we must do them the justice to say, that they bestow much pains in acquiring a proper knowledge of their country, while, in almost every other part of th»: world, the learned men know every thing, except what relates lo their native land. A few years ago, Messrs. Stratico and Xhdio honored this town with their presence. The Roman antiquities have not been so much respected at Zara as at i'ola; and though it was evidently as rich in monuments as the latter town, there now remain but few of their Vestiges. \ye perceive, for instance, no traces of its amphitheatre, which was totally destroyed at the time of constructing the fortifications.—The scite is at present occupied with a ravelin. The antique monument which is in the best preservation, is the triumphal arch that now forms the gate called St. Chry-sogone. It was, like Porta Aurea, at Pola, a testimony of af-fci tiou from a woman, to the memory of her husband; and we learn, by the inscription, that her name-was Mc/ia-liiniana; that of her husband, Lapicws Bassus. The word emporium, which app< ;ns in the inscription) would seem to indicate, that this arch decorated a market or other public place. There are, likewise, near the church of St. ilelia, two magnificent tinted columns, of the Corinthian order, and of which the architrave, capitals, plinth, and pedestals, are in the best style. An inscription discount at no great distance from this spot, and which has been removed to the eh inch of St. Donatius, gives ire to the opinion, that these columns belonged to a temple of Juno. This inscription is a dedication to the August Juno, (Junpni August^) by a woman of the name of Jputeia Quintu, the daughter of Marcus, in her name and that of her son, Lucius Titrpilius Brocchus Licijiius. These, however, are not the only inscriptions which were pointed out to M. Cassas, by the learned men who gave him such a handsome reception. They shewed him one which appeared to indicate that the religion of Isis and of Scrapis was cultivate d at Jadera or Zara; and which will be found to coincide with history, which states that when the Romans penetrated, for the first time, into Ulvria, they found the religion of Isis established in that countiy. In another inscription, Augustus Ca;sar Is de scribed as the founder of the colony of Jadera; and as having built the walls, to which some towers were afterwards added by one Vihetim Julius Optatus. M. Cassas also observed in a private house an inscription likewise consecrated to the Emperor Tiberius, b) the eleventh legion and Publius Cornelius J)ulubella. It is much to be regretted, that the various monuments to which these inscriptions were annexed, have been destroyed; as 1 N I ST 11 î A AMI PAttJMATIA. 4t fIiov might throw some light upon <■< jt;tin obscure parts of history. Itj tor example, one could now behold that which contained the inscription relative to I sis and Seiapis, whether it were a temple, altars, or statues, it may be presumed, thanks to the progress which has been made in the science of antiquities, that some information might be acquired as to the origin of the Dalmatians. The sane may be observed with regard to thosa that allude to Augustus and Tiberius, which must certainly have been posterior to the famous Dalmatian war; so that, if theSQ monuments were in exigence, they might afford tt&vtf inductions relative to that great event, of which history appear* to have neglected various important details. it is, however, doubtful, whether this loss could be repaired by digging, as it is probable that a part, at least, of the destroy* d monuments were situated in iront of Zara; and that the sea, which gains so rapidly oil this coast, may have covered them. Tort is bus ascertained that the ancient pavements of this place are now far below tin; general level of the waler; and, a short time ago, on clearing a part of the port, ihe ruins of some considerable edifices were discovered. If this observation be true, there is still less reason to expect that any of the monuments of Zara can be recovered, as it is well known that the Romans, in imitation of the decks, generally delighted in building, in their maritime towns, the finest edifices on the sea-shore; and it is proved, that the sea daily encroaches upon the scite of the auch nt. town in question. lb nee, those of Zara are lost beneath the waters, and buried, perhaps for ever, from the curiosity and investigation of the learned. One of the greatest privations experienced by the inhabitants of Zara, is that of water, which is extremely scarce; and some remains of an aqueduct which M. Cassas visited in the environs, prove, that in ancient times they were under the necessity of employing extraordinary means to procure it. The origin of this aqueduct: is attributed to Trajan; but it is a question, whether it was not constructed before h:s time; and some antiquaries think that it is only indebted to him for repairs. But there is still less coincidence: of opinion, with respect tb the extent of this aqueduct, and the place at which it received the water, to tfahsilllt it to Zara. Several writers .have supposed that it came from the river Kerka; and, amongst others, Simon Glinbavaz, and (Giovanni Luciaj quoted by the Abbé Fortis; but this learned author elearly demonstrates that they are nnstuken. However, the remains of this aqueduct are still to be seen at a short distance from Zara; and by the direction of the arches, it appears, that it ran to some distance along the se.i-shoro ; it is, afterward.*, again perceived in the woods of Tustiza, whence it maybe traced CASSAS.] it tASSAS'S TRAVELS as far as Tore.etta, at which place it serves as a path for pedestrian travellers, and beasts of burthen. Some fragments of it are likewise apparent near San Filippo and Giacorito, as well as at Zura-Vecchia; but beyond tins spot it is entirely lost. At present, and, doubtless, for many preceding centuries, the in-habitants of Zara, being deprived of this aqueduct, have no alternative but drinking cistern-water, the unhealthiness of which, as well as of the air, is a subject of general complaint in this district, particularly in summer. It may reasonably be supposed that these two eircuinstauc.i |, together with the extinction of the Roman Empire, the ravages of the Barbarians, the wars with the Turks, and the diminution of commerce, which has almost entirely centered in Venice, have contributed, in no ordinary degree, to the depopulation of Zara, which, at present, contains only 5000 inhabitants, a number which bears no proportion to thai formerly contained within its walls. Amongst the men in this town, distinguished by their learning and urbanity, and who were indefatigable in their attention to M. Cassas, he mentions Doctor Antonio Danieli, a professor of medicine, and an esteemed antiquarian. He possesses one of the most curious cabinets in these countries; and he took much pains in exhibiting it to our traveller. The ornaments of his house are sufficient to shew his love for the arts. Surrounded, as we may say, by the ruins of Roman grandeur, he has zealously and tastfulry collected them, as an offering to the study and admiration of the curious. He has, in particular, obtained an abundance of relics front the ruins of Nona, at a short distance from Zara. The latter town, which, in antient times, was called /F.?/'»iat or Mncnum, is now nothing but a miserable village, inhabited by five or six hundred persons, though the toil contains all the vestiges of its antient splendour. It is situated on a little isle in the middle of a port, which was formerly the resort of numerous fleets; but the shoals which have been formed by the inn.I deposited by a rivulet, which here disembogues itself, have totally blocked up the entrance; so that the port is now only an infectious swamp. Here, however, resided not only those haughty Romans, who despoiled the world; but, after them, those Sclavonian kings, so pompous in their vain shew and pageantry. But now, of all their grandeur, there remain only reptiles, mud, and stones! This ruined town has made ample returns for the considerable sums disbursed by Dr. Danieli, in causing excavations to bo made in search of monuments, by affording him several very rare spt cue.cns, amongst which are four antique Colossal statues of saline marble, which form a part of the decorations of his house. He possesses a vt ry fine collection of Roman medals, and IN 1stria AM) dalmat1a. 51 three Greek tables, which lie procured from the Isle of Lissa: these were seefl.by Fortis, who supposed them to have formed part of some decree, and to be the fragments of the signatures of the senators. He also has a line collection of stones, which belonged to various ancient monuments; and which he has obtained from different parts of Dalmatia: amongst them is an inscription which was seen by Spon at the house of M, Tom-masouij and which, doubtless, has since been acquired by M -Danieli. It is that which was consecrated to Tiberius by the eleventh legion, and by the care of Publius Cornelius DolabcIIa, lieutenant of the Pnetor. M. Cassas also observed at Zara an urn, likewise found amongst the ruins of Nona, it appears, farther, that one of the finest gates at Zara, called the gate of San Gringona, or Saint Chrysogone, ami which leads to the port, was constructed of the ruins of a triumphal arch at Nona. The cornice of this gate is not supported by two columns, as Spon has represented it, but by two pilasters of the Corinthian order, the lower part of which is entire!} wanting ; and they appear truncated nearly at the commencement of the arch; so that they not only want about two-thirds of their length, but also the whole of the bases; the capital, detached, and a part of the shafts, being all that remain. Although the country in which Zara is situated,is only known to the Venetians, and, in general, to the Italians, by the name of The County of Zara; yet the native inhabitants have preserved Its ancient name of Kotar. 'Die County of Zara, however, properly so called, is more contracted than was the ancient Kotar, which extended as far as the banks of the river Cettina, which is evidenced by a stanza of an old lllyrian song, quoted by Fortis. This fragment of versification proves that the ancient people here had their poets or their bards ; and it were to be wished, that some of them could be collected and translated. By such means we might form an idea of the poetical genius of those people: perhaps, it might be found analogous to the poetry of Ossian, with which our modern bards are so much delighted; and thus we might make some discoveries, or at least form some conjectures, relative to the origin of these people. It appears that the lllyrian song, of which Fortis has translated a fragment* described the misfortunes of some king. The following is the quotation, as he has written it: " Ustanise, Kraglhi Radoslate, Zktgp lcL.ua, i Zoriczu Zaspfl. Odbixete biika, i Karbava Rauni Kotar uu voda CVtutia,'' M fi CASSAs's TRAY E t.S Which he has tints translated ! « Awake, O King Radosfes; fate pursues thee, even when" thou In.st down to sleep, till the return of morning, Korbaxia and Licha have reyottcd against thee, and the plains of Kotar, as far as the waters of Ccttiua/' Though these phrases, doubtless, present few ideas; vet one cannot help remarking a sort of melancholy, which is a peculiar character in those songs of Ossian lately alluded to. But it is not from a few words that we ought to form the smallest comparison. The district of Kolar, or County of Zura, is tolerably well cultivated; but it is very unhealthy, particularly during summer. This season is here remarkable Pot its intense heat; and the exhalations from the mud and swamps diffuse an insupportable stench, and occasion violent fevers, v\hich, in a few days, either terminate the life of the patient, or they degenerate into the intermittent, and always obstinate, kind. On travelling through Dalmatia, and particularly in the County of Zara, one is often astonished at observing, not only such a ntimDe.r"bJ tOWUS, which were formerly celebrated, though now in ruins, but also to perceive that there is scarcely any of them in which the population has survived the destruction of the monuments. This, is a kind of phenomenon, which the ravages of time, and the desolation of war, do not sufficiently explain. Such are Nona, lately mentioned; such are likewise Biograd, or Alba Maritima, I tana Asscria, and several others. One circumstance in particular, though not peculiar to this country, but to the powers fey which it was conquered, may have given rise tp this depopulation: it would appeal eMiaoidiuniy if we were to consider, thai the interest of all conquerors is to destroy the walls, to abolish the authorities, to mutilate the Jaws, but to preserve the people, that they may profit by their slavery and industry: but the surprise will cease, when we examine which were the powers who disputed the possession of these places; and, setting aside the Barbarians, whose incursions certainly did not contribute to the preservation of the people, it will suffice, simply,to see the Venetians ami the Turks engaged in their various contests for dominion. When victory decided in favour of the latter, they always found that, these countries were too far from the centre of their empire, to afford them the hope of long retaining their conquests; and hence, their Only care vrRS to despoil them of all the treasures they possessed; which were carried off, together with the greater part of the cattle, and the men conveyed away as slaves. Thus, the fields being deprived of the aid of the labourer, and the shores deserted h\ ships and commerce, misery IV ISTTttA ASD OAI.MATIA. 53 iootl opened her tomb for the feeble remnant of the population, which had escaped the desolation of war and. the gullies of the pirates. If, on the contrary, the efforts of the Venetians were crowned with success, this new power, which might be said to be then confined within the wails of a flourishing capital, but without dependent slates, experienced the mania which afflicts all commercial people; namely, that of judging of their prosperity, / rather by the view, than by the employment of their riches. The people of Venice, at the comin&ncementof its grandeur^ may be compared to the merchant, who first occupies himself with filling his magazines, and then with contemplating the bales he has assembled, instead of reflecting that the advantage of his commercial speculations is far less in the goods which surround him, .than hi the returns which he will derive from their future and distant circulation. Thus, the Venetian people, at the beginning of their rise, attached no farther importance to their conquests, than what resulted from the greater or less portion of spoil which flow, d from them into their city; and thus Dahnatia, whether it was in the power of the Turks, or fell into the bauds of the Venetians, was equally depopulated, plundered, and laid waste; because the empire of the former was too extensive to allow them to retain it, and that of the latter too contracted to permit them to protect it. In cither situation, if the unfortunate remains oi the people in that country existed, for a short time, without oppressors, they also lived without resources ; and oftentimes parties of banditti,"the impure remnant of the armies, the scum of the human race, dispersed in the forests, but who were always foreigners, either to the Turks, the Venetians, or the neighbouringtribes :—these hordes would frequently rush into the towns, and almost deserted villages, massacring the few inhabitants who. remained, or forcing them to combine with themselves. Such outrages drew down, either the vengeance of the Ottomans, or of the Venetians : tire and the .swore! again followed in their train, anp the destruction*of the people was complete; because it was necessary to treat as robbers and outlaws those whom they had not been politic enough to consider either as subjects or as slaves. M. Cassas, having resolved not to prolong his journey beyond a certain period which he had fixed on, only made a short stay at Nona and Zara-Vecchia. This town, which is now entirely ruined, Was once a considerable city, called Blaildona; and which, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is placed between Jadera and Arauna, another town, situated, in the time of the Romans, on the seashore, before you arrive at Salona. In the course of ages Blan-dona became the residence of some Croatian kings; and this circumstance procured it the name of Biograd, or Belgrade, a •pedal denomination, which all the Sctavohian people gave to CASSASTS TRA V i: 1.5 Which he has thus translated ; "Awake, O King Radoslas ; fate pursues ihee, even when thou liest down to sleep, till tne return of morning. Kdrbakiet fetq'd Lkhn have- revolted against thee, and the plains of Kotar, as far as the waters of Cettina." Fhough these phrases, doubtless, present few ideas; yet one cannot help remarking a sort of melancholy, which is a peculiar character in those songs of Ossian lately alluded to. I hit it is not from a few words that we ought to form the smallest comparison. The district of Kotar, or County of Zara, is tolerably Well cultivated; but it is very unhealthy, particularly during summer. This season is here remarkable for. its intense heat ; and the exhalations from the mud and swamps diffuse an insupportable stench, and occasion violent fevers, which, in a few days, either terminate the life of the patient, or they degenerate into the intermit tent, and always obstinate, kind. On travelling through IXdmatia, and particularly in the County of Zara, one is often astonished at observing, not only such a number of towns, which were formerly celebrated, though now in ruins, hut also to perceive that there is scarcely any of them in which the population has survived the destruction of the monuments. This is a kind of phenomenon, which die ravages of time, and the desolation of war, do not sufficiently explain. Such are Nona, lately mentioned; such are likewise Biograd, or .Alba Maritima, Crana Asseria, and several others. One circumstance in particular, though not peculiar to this country, but to the powers by which it was conquered, may have given rise to this depopulation: it would appear extraordinary if we were to consider, that the interest of all conquerors is to destroy the walls, to abolish the authorities, to mutilate the laws, bu! to preserve the people, that they may profit by their slavery and industry: but the surprise will cease, when we examine which were the powers who disputed the possession of these places; ami, setting aside the Barbarians, whose incursions certainly did not contribute to the preservation of the people, it will suffice, simply,to see the Venetians and the Turks engaged in their various contests for dominion. When victory decided in favour of the latter, they always found that these countries were too far from the centre of their empire, to afford them the hope of long retaining their conquests; and hence, their only care was to despoil them of all the treasures they possessed; which were carried off, together with the greater part of the cattle,and the men conveyed awaj as slaves. Thus, the fields being deprived of the aid of the labourer, and the shores deserted by ships and commerce, misery ftMiii opened her tomb for the feeble remnant of the population, which had escaped the desolation of war and the gallics of the J urates. If, Oh the contrary, the efforts of the Venetians were crow tied with success, this new power, which might be said to be then confined within the walls of a flourishing capital, but without dependent slates, experienced the mania which afflicts all commercial people; namely, that of judging of their prosperity, » rather by the view, than by the employment 6f their riches. The people "* Venice, at the commencement of its grandeur, may be compared to the merchant, who first occupies himself with"filling his magazines, and then with contemplating die hales he has assembled, instead of reflecting that the advantage of his commercial speculations is far less in the goods which surround him, l&an in the returns which he will derive from their future and distant circulation. Thus, the Venetian people, at the beginning of their rise, attached no farther importance to their conquests, than what resulted froui the greater or less portion of spoil which flowed from diem into their city; and thus Dahnatia, whether it was in the power of the lurks, or fell into the bauds of the Venetians, was equally depopulated, plundered, and laid waste; because, the empire of the former was too extensive to allow them to retain it, and that of die latter too contracted to permit them to protect it. In cither situation, if the unfortunate remains of the people in that country existed, for a short time, without oppressors, they also lived without resources ; and oftentimes parties of banditti," the impure remnant of the armies, the scum of the human race, dispersed in the forests, but who were always foreigners, either to the Turks, the Venetians, or the neighbouring tribes:—these hordes Wpiild frequently iush into the towns, and almost deserted villages, massacring the few inhabitants who remained, or forcing them to combine with themselves. Such outrages drew down, either the vengeance of the Ottomans, or of the Venetians : fire and the sword again followed in their train, anp the destruction,of the people was complete; because it was necessary to treat as robbers and outlaws those whom they had not been politic enough to consider either as subjects or as slaves, M. Cassas, having resolved not to prolong his journey beyond a certain period which he had lived on, only made a short stav at Nona and Zara-Vecchia. This town, which is now entirely ruined, was once a considerable city, called Blaikfona; and which, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is placed between Jadera and Arauna, another town, situated, in the time of the Romans, on the seashore, before you arrive at Salona. In the course of ages Blaa-dona became the residence of some Croatian kings; and this circumstance procured it the name of Biograd, or Belgrade, a •pecial denomination, which all the Sclavonian people gave to €ASSA5,\s TRAVELS Which lie has thus translated : "Awake, O King Radoslas; fîfte pursues ffkêé, even when thou licst down to sleep, till the return of morning. Korhavia :ir not sufficiently explain. Such are Nona, lately mentioned*: sue h are likewise Biograd, or Alba Maritima, I rami Asscria, and several others. One circumstance in particular, though not peculiar to this country, but to the powers by which it Was conquered, may have' given rise te> this depopulation : it would appear extraordinary if we were to consider, that the interest of all conquerors is to destroy the walls, to abolish the authorities, to mutilate the laws, but to preserve the people, that they may profit by their slavery and industry: but the surprise will cease.', when we examine whieh were' the powers who disputed the possession of these places; and, setting aside the Barbarians, whose incursions certainly elid not contribute to the preservation of the people, it will suffice, shnpiV)to see the Venetians and the Turks engaged in their various contests tor dominion. When victory decided in., fevour of/the latter, they always found that these' countries were' toe) far fretin thé centre of their empire, to afford them the hope of long retaining their conquests; and heme, their only care was to despoil them of all the treasures they possessed; which were carried off, together with the greater part of the cattle, and the men conveyed awav as slave's. Thus, the' fields being deprived of the aid of the labourer, and the shores deserted b\ ships anel commerce, misery 1\ ISTTilA AND DAI.MATtA. 33 soon opened her tomb for the feeble remnant of the peculation, which had escaped the desolation Of war and the gallics of the pirates. If, on tlie contrary, the efforts bf the Venetians were crowned with success, this new pt>wcr, which might be said to be then confined within the wails of a nourishing capital, hut Without dependent states, experienced the mania which afflicts all commercial people; namely, that of judging of their prosperity, * rather by the view, than by the employment of their riches. Hie people Q? Venice, at the commencement of its grandeur, may be compared to the merchant, who first occupies himself with filling his magazines, and then with contemplating the bales he has assembled, instead of reflecting that the advantage of his commercial speculations is far less in the goods which surround him, .than in the, returns which he will derive from their future and distant circulation. Thus, the Venetian people, at the beginning of their rise, attached no farther importance to their conquests, than what resulted from the greater or less portion of spoil which flowed from them info their city; and thus Dahnatia, whether it was in the power of the Turks, or fell into the hands e>l the Venetians, was equally depopulated, plundered, and laid waste; because the empire of the former was too extensive' to alleivv them to retain it, anil that of the latter too contracted to permit them te> protect it. in cither situation, if the unfortunate' remains of the people in that country existed, for a short time, without Ojp-pressors, they also live d without, resource* ; and oftentimes parties of banditti, the impure remnant of the armies, the- scum of the human race, dispersed in the- forests, but who were always foreigners, either to the Turks, the Venetians, or the neighbouring tribes:—these hordes would frequently tush into the towns, and almost deserted villages, massacring the lew inhabitants who. remained, or forcing them to combine with themselves. Such outrages drew down, cither the vengeance of the Ottomans, or of the Venetians : fire ami the sword again followed in their train, anp the; destruction,of the people was ceimplete; because it was necessary to treat as robbers and outlaws those whom they had not been politic enough to consider eider as subjects or as slaves, M.Cassas, having resolved not to prolong his journey beyoud a certain period which he had fixed on, only made a short stay at Nona and Zara-Vecchia. This town, which is now entirely ruined, was once a considerable city, called Blandona; and which, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is placed between Jadera and Arauna, another town, situated, in the lime of the Romans, on the seashore, before you arrive at Salona. In the course of ages Blandona. became the residence of some Croatian kings; and this circumstance procured it the name' of Biograd, or Belgrade, a special denomination, which all the Selavonian people gave to the towns inhabited by their sovereigns. According to some pef* sons, it was mined, as were many other towns ph this coast, by Attila; but we know for certain, that it was complete!) destroyed by the Doge Ordelaio Faliero, at the time of the fatuous war or the Venetians against the Hungarians ; and, as we lately observed, when investigating the causes of the depopulation of these countries, some banditti intermixing themselves amongst the very small number of inhabitants who had survived the military destruction, KOOh effected a change in their manners ; when, in order to check their excesses, the republic caused a gem ral massacre of the robbers, of and the ancient inhabitants, with'whom'they were con-fouuded. If, however, Biograd be sometimes called Alba Ma-ritima, it is, literally, because these two words are. the Latin translation of the Sclavonian name Biograd, which means white, and to which has been added the epithet maritime, to distinguish it from other places of the same name. If, likewise, the Italians have given it the name of Zara-Ycechia, tills must have arisen from the false opinion which some learned men have entertained, that it was tht: ancient Jaclera; but it is now no longer to be doubted, that Jadcra was situated on the spot wInch now contains Zara. It is from some inscriptions found in this place, that we discover Zara-Vecchia to have been the ancient Blan-dona. vrana, or liana, which is not far from Zam-\ ecchia, is likewise a town in an entirely ruined state, being one vast mass of walls and demolished buildings: it is ah additional monument of the ravages of war, and the vindictive fury of tbe Venetians. Here, however, there is no doubt whether it Wag a town of antiquity, for nothing indicates that it existed in the time of the Romans. It was, however; a possession of some consequence to the unfortunate Templars, and the residence of a grand-prior of this order. It also appears that the Turks had possession of it for some time, and that some of their goat men thought it worthy of their residence. There may still be seen the remains of the gardens of a Turkish individual, \ hose riches, apparently, rendered him so famous, that his gardens have been described by historians. His name was Hali-Bcg, or Ali-Bcy, and the cottage, in which resides the priest of the few unfortunate inhabitants, who may be said to vegetate, rather than to live, amongst the ruins, is built on a spot, which still bears the name of All-Bey's Gardens* Bijt, in vain, do historians celebrate these gardens for their extent, the magnificence of their cascades, their fountains, their reservoir?, their shady boweis; or beautiful cypresses, whose sombre verdure is so pleasant to Eastern nations. It is now impossible to Iblin a single idea of their ancient splendour. Every thing is confounded, overthrown, destroyed: rushes and weeds cover eVeTy-Sfpot; and, the waters having runoff from their broken channels, have been absorbs! by the soil, or remain stagnant in the vailies: the pavilions and the trees have disappeared, and melancholy and misery now pn y ti] on the seites winch were formerly occupied by voluptuousness and luxury* The Curavanseray, though long since deserted, is, uev: rthel «*, in a good state of preservation: one may, at least, distinguish its form and size; audit would be evon now complete, if the neighbouring Morlachi ins had not been si iff, red to demolish some parts of it, in order to employ the materials for building their shapeless houses. Few persons are unacquainted with tlieu*e Of these sort f edifices, which, in Eastern countries, display the magnificence and hospitality of princes; and, amongst the Turks, the latter quality is not only a moral virtue, but a religious precept, which is rigorously observed towards, men and aninuds. But these c iin m'.eravs are generally confounded with the Mm or hham, though the word cnracti>t*a'a>f seems in indicate, more plainly, the purpose of the former ; and, in fact, the caravanseraysj particularly at the time of their origin, were built in desert places, where' the distance from large towns caused inconveniencies, and the want, of shelter to travellers and caravans; while the khans, which are most frequently built in town*, are made use of by foreign merchants, who travel from commercial motives, anil are large enough to afford, not only a lodging for themselves, but magazines for their merchandize. Tim ,, for example, by a private convention with the Ottoman Boric, the French had their own khans, which they alone occupied at ' Aleppo, at Syria, and Smyrna. From what has been said, and from the situation of the buildings alluded to, we may suppose, that the one in question was rather a khan than a caravanseray, since it was in a town near to the sea, and not in a road frequented by caravans. Nevertheless, the term caruvf rocks of every form, whose rugged summits sometimes rise 40, 50, and even 100 feet above the water, while others are scarcely on a level with the surface. Amongst this crowd of isles, some, uncultivated, sterile, and sandy, calcined by a burning sun, and presenting a perfect image of the Deserts of Atrica, are contrasted by others possessing the most delightful vegetation, shaded by magnificent trees, enamelled with flowers, aud watered by silver springs, such as were frequented by the Naiads and Sylvans of Romance, and whose appearance recalls to the imagination all the fables of die bowers of Ti mpe. On the other side are the vast mountains of the Continent, the enormous bases of which extend to the sea-shore, or are sometimes protracted inland by fertile plains : while their distant and blueish summits seem to cut the horizon. Here, amongst the huts of the Barbarians may be seen, occasionally, high columns, the proud and solitary remains of majestic antiquity ; there, are large-ponds, motionless amidst the cultivation which surrounds them, and reflecting in their sombre waters the obscure appearance of the extensive forests : or the sea, the earth, the air, filled with birds, some apparently floating on the waves, others slumming the surface of the lakes, or rising above the highest tops of the mountains; while now and then the eye is agreeably relieved by hen is of cattle, a few labourers, monks, sbirri, &c. movng under the most beautiful sky. Such is a faithful representation of the eon-slant and interesting appearance of the coasts of Dahnatia, and that immense Archipelago, in which we have traced the voyage of M. Cassas from Pola to Zara; and in which we have still to accompany him from Zara to Spalatro. The first port at which our voyagers stopped, was Sebenico. To arrive at this fortress, you cease to coast along the shore, and enter a very narrow canal, which you follow for some tune between a rather high mountain on the left, which forms a kind of promontory at the entrance of the canal; and a flat country on the right, which extends as far as Vergolia. At the upper extremity of the canal, and at the bottom of a small gulph, striking in-land on the right, and receiving, on the left, the waters of the Kerka, is Sebenico. This town is the strongest place in Dalmaiia : it has four citadels, all of which are excellent. One of them bears the name of St. Nicholas, and is situated on an isle, which has thence received the name of SanNicolo di Sebenico. This isle is the most considerable of any of the county in question ; and it |ias been joined to the main land by a causeway or jettee. Spon, when speaking of Sebenico, means the citadel to include the works which form the enclosure of what is properly called the town ; but which, at the present day, should rather be called the body of the place ;—for two of the citadels are built upon two neighbouring eminences which command the town and port. These two are called St. André and the Baron. According to the calculations of Spon, the population of Se-benico amounts to no more than seven or eight thousand souls, ; l>ut he asserts, that, before it was desolated by the plague, the number of inhabitants was nearly twenty thousand. In the l 2 opinion of M. Cassas, during- his short stay in this town, the number has not increased since the time that Spon visited these regions. V\ Jth respect to the origin of St-1m nico, opinions are extremely diIf' rent. Those whose enthusiasm for the Romans leads them to belr^ve lh.it they v.ere the founders of all the antieut towns, and whose error may appear very excusable, when we consider the great number of houses which they inhabited or embellisher! in this part of Fair-ope, pretend, also, that they laid the foundation of the one in question, and seem to think that it owed its commencement to a colony of Veterans, whom the Emperor Claudius sent thither. They support their hypothesis upon a passage of Pliny the elder, which is as follows : 'i'ragurimn, civiiuu K6-mrjnoriim mar-more ri')tum\ Sir am, in nuctv locum divus Claudius / etefaftSi misit." They have, evidently, been seduced, by the connection between Traguriitm and Sicum ; and as it is indubitable that Tragiii'ium, so famous amongst the Romans for its marble, is Trau, of which we shall speak hereafter, they have concluded that Sicum must have been in the same neighbourhood, and they only found Scbcnico, to which they could apply this antient name, together with what, has be en said by Pliny relative to the Veterans sent thither by Claudius. It. is, however, certain, as the Abbe f'orti.s has justly remarked, that the Table1 of Peutingcr relative' to Dalmatia, mentions no place, the name of which bears any resemblance to Sicum, unless it be SidlS, which it places Ik 'tween Trait and Salona, whither we shall shortly attend M. Cassas. it should bfe here observed, with regard to the 'Table of Pcutiu-ger, that all teamed men are acquainted with this production; but as 1 ha-,; already had occasion to mention it, there will be no itn-propriety in saying a few Won Is respiting it, for the information of such readers as may not be deeply versed in geographical knowledge. Conrad Peutinger was a h annul man of the fifteenth century: he was born at .Augsburg in \4(>.>, ami was equally Celebrated for his domestic virtues and his talents. lie studied in the most celebrated universities of Italy, was afterwards secretary to the Se'uate of Augsburg, and at length obtained the con-tie I < nee of the Emperor Maximilian. The Table in ejneslion only bears his name, because he first published it; and it is a kind of iiinerary of the Roman armies, or rather a sort of map of the military routes of the Empire, prepared under the reign of tlie Emperor Theodosius the Great. One Conrad Celtes discovered it in the archives ed'a monastery in (iermany, and presented it te> Peu-tinger, who gave' it publicity: but the least scientific observer will easily perceive that it is not the work of a geographer. The auk- ix istrta and nWLMATIA. 6l Ward configuration of dm lands and .shore* has sometimes amused the superstitious; and has led some to believe, that these irregularities concealed sortie mystery: the truth, however, is, that it was the production of an officer] not very well informed; or, perhaps, even of a private soldier, who amused himself with inserting correctly certain names, hut without precision as to their situation, of the different places throtiv.li which he passed, or in which he rested or encamped in the Empire. In the first-men-tiom d point of view, it is an useful work, as it serves to clear up some: doubts respecting certain contradictions' that prevail amongst the antient authors ; but, in the second, it is an mnvstematic pfo-ductidh. A superb edition of it was printed at Vienna, in 17J3, nmh'r the superintendanee of Fiamis Chrisleqiher de Scheib, whieh is* e'vniehe'd with very hmneil notes' and elisse i tations: To return from this digte'ssion, vve must .observe, that some me>elern writers are inclined Id think, that Sebeuico was built by the Croats, about the: period e>f the decline of the Roman Empire : but the most rational opiniein is that which F'ortis has qudted frbtrt J. R. (iimuiuiauo, who Wrote" about a huud.ed ye art before him ; and whieh, fdf this very reason, will he, fe>tmd to remie in aret te) the truth ; because He liveel not so long after tlie time, when llx.ukii appeared, whom he considers as the' real founders of Sebi nico. (.jimstihiano attribute's the foundatiem ot this town to the llscoqueiSj Uscoc'ums or Sclavonians, whose character has been briefly describeel in a pre ceding part of this work. This tow li," says he-, " waS (>ui!t by the bauehtti galled U.ieoques, of SHavonia, who, before »be-y fcttfl tfttfcfed it, lived upon the- rock on whieh the citadel now stands. When they y< reeived vessels from this elevated spot, thev d.'<:•:,!, d from their haunts, and sallied out to attack in their barks, whieh they kept cemcealed at the foot of the rock, under cover of the woods, in the course of time: tlmy began to erect a few < abins, which were surroufrtded by poles called Sifnec; a word, from winch the town derived its name: of Scbenico. Ry the union of these corsairs, the toWfi gradually increased. It is also supposed, that after the reduction of Scardoua, many of its inhabitants retried to Se benico, whieh, having acquired the title of town, formed itself into a republic, without acknowledging any other sovereign power. Its liberty, however, was not of long nutation ; for the' King Of Hungary, who was at that time master- of JDaimalia, took possesion of it, ami govt rmd it in a very tyrannical maimer; anel the inhabitants of Se■beuico, being uuabie: to bear the insolence of the Hungarians, came to the resolution of delivering themselves ft&tti the yoke, anel tb "surrender their town to the Republic of Venie•*' i tfeej executed their intention on the 12thof July, t412, Under the tei|n of the Doge- Michael Steno." If, however, the total absence of all vestiges of antiquity whatever do not afluid sufficiently strong proofs, that Sebeuico is a modern town ; it rmist, nevertheless, be admitted, that of all the opinions relative to its founders, that 06 Giustiniano is the least repugnant to reason: the choice of the place coincides with the manners of the people whom he describes as having fixed themselves in it; its situation is suitable to their wants and their mode of satisfying them ; its increase is conformable to the events of history, and its name resembles a familiar word in the language of the native inhabitants. Sebeuico, however, such as it remains at present, is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on the declivity of a hill; behind which, ii.as a chain of mountains called the Tartari. The different kinds of marble, which are very common in all this part of Dalmalia, likewise enter into the composition of these mountains; but it is not very valuable. It is a brecchia, of which the colours are false and dull, extremely gravelly, consequently harsh under the chisel, and not susceptible of a polish. Sebeuico, next to Zara, is the most agreeable town in Dahuatia. It is inhabited by a great number of noble families, whose palaces are rich and elegant. An architect, or engineer, named Sam-mecheli, who is celebrated in Italy by several tine works, directed the construction of the citadel, or fortress, which defends the entrance to the port ; and there may be observed here, amongst other things, a gate, built upon the plan of that, by the same architect, which is so much admired at Verona. The Dome, or cathedral, is a curious monument, on aecounl of its strength and Gothic appearance; but it is not so mm h admired for the richness of the inside, where profusion is displayed without order or taste, as it Is for certain parts of its architecture. The roof, for instance, is a work, truly extraordinary, being formed of large blocks of marble joined together with so much art and precision, that the lines of separation are: scarcely perceptible. Some individuals e>f the- seventeenth century did honour Se b<>-nico by their talents in the arts and sciences. AnUnne Veranzio, Archbishop of Gran, afterwards cardinal, and Michael, his brother, d7>, was regarded as a public calamity. Martin Rota, of Sebenico, was both a poet and a painter. Few of his pictures remain; and it appears that he was most partial to engraving. In Italy, and particularly in Dal-matia, many of his prints are to be met with : the descendants of Cardinal Veranzio above-mentioned, have three portraits of that learned man, which were engraved by Rota. As at thai period the art of engraving was not divided into distinct classes, M. Rota did not disdain to execute maps, several of which are yet extant. They are considered as not very correct; but the reproach does not attach to him, but to the geographer who prepared them. Sebenico was also the native country of a man who holds the first rank in painting. Andrew Schiavoni, or, as be is commonly called by way of distinction, The Schiavoni, was born there in 1582, and was one of the most expert masters of the Venetian school. His parents were in low circumstances; in his youth, his poverty marie him neglect some parts of the charming art, to which he had attached himself; and the necessity of wo)king with rapidity, in order to procure himself the means of existence, did not allow him to attain to perfection in his designs; but this defect was compensated by so many other line qualities, that he was considered as one of the'lirst painters pf the age iti which he lived;—an age so fertile in men of genius. Titian, Georgian, and Parmesan, in particular, were the mas- ters under whom he studied. He was uncommonly successful in painting women; and his heads of old men are highly spoken of. His strokes are easy, spirited, and graceful; all his attitudes are well chosen and contrasted ; his draperies tastefully disposi d, and all producing an admirable otíecl. To so many qualifications he added a gift, which Nature dots not grant to every painter; and which she re ('uses, sometimes, even to the greatest masters;—a gift, which can never he acquired by study, and for which nothing can be a substitute. The colouring of Schiavoui was excellent ; and it is asserted, that Tiutoret, on many occasions, had a picture of Schiavoui before him, while he was executing his own. IVmg sprightly, well-informed, and of an agre* able disposition, he reckoned amongst the number of his friends the famous Aretiu ; and to this connection he was indebted for a variety of ingenious ideas, of which he availed himself m his compositions. If we like to have a sort of analogy between the virtues of men, or nations, who exist at a great distance from each'other, it is equally interesting to imagine, occasionally, a kind of resemblance bciui en then follies. Those who are acquainted with the history of the Galilean cathedrals, and have sometimes smiled at the details of those ridiculous festivals, which, bs the ignorance and licentiousness of the barbarous ages, werecombincd with the gravity of religions ceremonies: those, in short, who know, that for a length of time, there were celebrated in ,arious churches in France, the festival of the election of the King and the Bishop of Fools; at others, that of the Abbot of the district; and m some parts, even the Festival of the Ass:—those, I say, who remember that these ridiculous anniversaries were celebrated in the churches, will feel their curi< sily excited by the discovery, in Se-benico on*: of the links of this chain of absurdities, forgi d by our credulous ancestors ; and the only en*' wbc h, perhaps, has hitherto escaped the attention of the inquisitive. It was, in general, from Christmas to the Epiphany, that the people in Fiance abandoned themselves to llu.se indecent .Bacchanalian rites; the cathedrals of Dijon, of Autun, of \ ivius, and twenty other places, were the theatre s in which such scenes were exhibited. It was, also, :it Christmas, that they annually elected a King at Sebenico, whose reign last* d u /oí Ini^/it. For a length of time, this pan-tomimical king was chosen IVem amongst the nobles ; but, at present, lh*\ think it beneath them to amuse themselves with such buflooncn ; and this thimeiical crown has, therefor", devolved to what is called, in Italy, a man from the dregs of the people. M. Cas.sas, who was at S< benico only in th*: summer season, was-not, consequently, witness to tins ceremony; but Fortis assert* IN ISTKlA AND DAI.MAT1A. fJ5 that this notwithstanding the short duration of his authority, enjoyed several prerogatives of sovereignty; such, for example, as that of keeping the keys of the town, of having a distinguished place in the cathedral, and of deciding upon all the difficulties or disputes which arise amongst those who compose his court. The tOWn is obliged to provide him with a house suitable to the dignity of his elevated situation. When he leaves his house', he is always forced to wear a crown of wheat-ears; and he cannot appear in public without a robe of purple or scarlet cloth, and surrounded by a great number of officers. The governor, the bishops, and other dignitaries, are obliged to give him a feast; and all who meet him must salute him with respect. When the fortnight is at an end, the king quits his palace, strips off his crown and purple, dismisses his court, and returns to his hovel. On considering this ceremony, in a certain point of view, its folly might seem to have a philosophical end: it might furnish an annua] type of the instability of human grandeur; but it is doubtful whether those who instituted it had such an idea in view. One circumstance, extremely ludicrous, and which proves that pride is intimately connected even with fooleries, is, that two of the suburbs of Sebenico, one called di Terra Firtitn, and the other, di Marina, have each, at the same period, their particular king ; but being kings of suburbs, they appear to be sovereigns of subordinate rank, and dare not enter the town without the permission of their superior. Poets have sung of this custom, as well of others no less laughable ; but which have now fallen into disrepute. On this subject, Fortis quotes some Latin verse.:, by one .John Nardino, bishop of Zagrat: they make mention, not only of the annual election of tins ephemeral king, but also of another custom, which was, doubtless', practised in his time:—it is a monument of the vulgarity of the people of those countries, and deserves no reflection. The following are the lines alluded to: Sic Trino (iicatn Deo dum frsta refulgent, t'ivis in line seeptrum nobilfc urbe te»et. Hie prius ostenstJ eelebral ii<>v;i imp'a friupo jCunnubium, etaocuts porrigit iwie maiius. The gulph, or, as it should rather be called, the lake in which Sebenico is situated, is the depository of the waters which form the lake of Scardoua, before they reach the sea. Three rivers empty themselves into the last-mentioned lake ; they are the Ker-ka, the Goduchia, and the Jujossa. This lake runs into that of Sebenico, by a canal, nearly three leagues in length ; and that of Sebenico, communicates with the sea, by another, which is called CAIUI,] K the canal of St. Antonio. It was the latter whitth M. Casia» ascended, on his way to Scbcnico, before he reached Scardona, for the purpose of visiting the cascade of the Kerka. These lakes, and, generally speaking, the three rivers just mentioned, abound in fish, principally eels and trout, which are held in high estimation. They also afford a great number of crabs, of which the natives of the couutiy make much use, and the flesh of which is peculiarly delicate. These crabs are about the breadth of one's hand; and the Dalmatians call them schilloni. The tunny also appears here at a certain period every year; but the inhabitants on the banks and shores are so idle, that they derive little advantage from the riches which are thus offered to them by Nature ; and all the produce of the fisheries is consumed at the tables of the few great men who reside amongst them. Agriculture is equally negleeled, though the two lakes arc surrounded by hillocks, which require only the plough. The same deplorable idleness causes the numerous and excellent quarries o| marble to remain unexplored ; though, if they were in the hands of a more intelligent people, they would be made highly productive, líut I shall not continue my observations on this subject, as natural history is foreign to the object of the presen; v, ork | aád as the interesting production of bonis may be consulted for such a purpose* I cannot, however, but remark, that one great source of riches to this country, if the inhabitants knew how to appreciate it, would be, two sorts of manna: one of which is acquired from the ash-tree, by means of incision, as is practised in Tuscany and Calabria; the other, which is merely a sort of farinaceous grain, is collected from a species of grass, such as views in the environs of Cracow in Poland. Before arriving at Scardona, there may be seen on the shore, between the two rivers of Goduchia and Jujossa, some vestiges of iionian monuments :—there are, likewise, some remains of a Mosaic pavement, and the ruins of an ancient temple. Many more important fragments of antiquity might, doubtless, be perceived, if they were not buried beneath the water, which has indubitably risen in this vicinity, ns is proved by the dike that formerly joined the tongue of land which separates the mouths of tie: two rivers, at a rock called Si^tipanaz, and oh which the temple stood; for this dike is now entirely covered by the water, and is no longer perceptible ; though its existence in its entire state may still be ascertained, by sounding. M. CassaS made but a short stay at Scbcnico. Having resolved to visit the famous cascade of the Kerka, it was necessary that he should proceed farther towards the interior of the country, lie therefore rc-embaikid, a^ain ascended th* I \ 1 8TB | A A N D DA !M ATI A. fi7 Cnnal which separates the lake of Sebcnico from that of Star-dona ; and slioitlv arund at the last-mentioned town. Scardona, which by tin- Turks is called Skardin, was considered as a pari of Turki v in Kurope, and is actuated marlv at lha mouth of tin- Ivtrka; not exactly on the Adriatic gulph, hut on the lake width bean the nana- of this town; or from which, ■ perhaps, it derives its own. It was once a celebrated place ; hut is now of little consequence : it is, how ever, surrounded b\ walls, and defended by two small forts. In 11V.0, the' bishopric of Jadera was transferred hitlur; and since that time, it lues always been the see of a bishop, who is the suffragan of Spalatro. TheTufkfl and Venetians have constantly disputed the possession of this place. The former took it in I.Jo'2, and kept it for 170 years. In l&Qlg, they lost it in their turn; but soon retook it, though some tune afterwards, the Venetians again expelled them; and thus it has been alternately in the possession of these masters. It is indebted to these military and Inn barons events, as well as to the ignorance in which its inhabitants have remained for so many centuries, for the abject state to which it has now fallen, as its population is extremely thin. The fine monuments, which had been left in it by the Ancients,are entirelv destroy d: and it cannot, at the present day, be conceived, that this was the beautiful town of Liburnia, and the plate at which the States of that pn>\unassembled. Nevertheless, it would only require an enlightened government* to restore it, in a short time, to its former prosperity. Its soil is excellent; ami it is famous for the good quality of its iigs, the delicacy of its wine*, and the abundance of its pasturage. The river which contains the magnificent cascade, that excited }he curiosity of our author, is that called by the ancients the Titiut, and which formerly separated Liburnia from Dalmatia. The present inhabitants call it Keika, or karka. The learned Terlis, who suffered no kind of fatigue to overcome his anxiety forreseaich, proceeded as far as die source ot this river; and ascertained that it was not only less distant in-land, than had always been supposed, but also, that the best geographers have always confounded this river with a torrent which descends from the mountains called Jleisowaz, and which is Old) suppliid by the waters that arise from storms. The following circumstance has occasioned the errors of geographers: The upper bed of the torrent is more than a hundred feet above the grotto whence the Kerka taktf its source; hence, when it if swelled by the waters of storms, or the solution of snow, it i.s precipitated v.ith violence from this great elevation, and may be said to fall j*t the very plate whence the Kerka originates. It v\ ould appear as if tin bed of this aver was onlv die couimiation of the K 8 torrent, or that the torrent is only the origin of the Kerka itself: hut this is not the ease; as it is easy to he convinced on this point, when, in summer, the torrent is dried up, and its hid, which is nearly thirty feet wide, exposed to view; for then, there b no cascade at this place, and the Kerka Is perceived flowing grand and majestically from its grotto. It is, however, certain, that the name of springs may be given to the waters which issue from this grotto; and, perhaps, it would be more correct to say, that the subterraneous r,\ir hen-begins to see the light; at least it is certain, that its course is even here wide and deep, since Tortis attempted to ascend it for some distant < . by the aid of flambeaux. If lie had been in a strongei boat, and had taken proper precautions for securing his lights from the drops of water which filtrated in abundance from the rock, he is of opinion, that he might have advanced much farther, notwithstanding the resistance Opposed to his progress by the rapidity of the current, and the embarrassment often occasioned by the stalactites, or by a species of sand-stone very common in these districts. Though this is generally called Kerka-stone, it is not its waters which contribute to such kinds of lapidial productions, but the higher currents; and amcu»st others, those of the torrent lately mentioned. This kind of stout 1- BUCCeSS-fully employed here, for the construction of houses: the blocks are easily hewn, are extremely light, and, consequently of great value for arched -v\orks or vaults, JVl. CassaS had not sufficient time to proceed as far as the source of the kerka; but before we speak of the beautiful cascade of Scardona, it will be necessary to give an idea of the river, lowhuh it is indebted for its origin; and for this purpose, to consult the works of such modern travellers as have described it. The cascade of Scardona, the only one which was seen by our artist, is the fifth and last formed by this river iif its course: it is also the largest and most majestic; although that of iWhislap, which precedes it by some miles, is likewise Worthy of notice; and it is to be regretted, that his time was not sufficient to allow him to proceed as far as that fall, because We should have been indebted to him for an account of it, as well as for some ideas relative to the ancient Burnum, or Liburnia, of the Romans; for writers vary, as to the name of thi.> town. The ruins consist of stones, dispersed along the road which borders on tin kcrka ; man) of them are often found w ithin the fpOCtJ of a mile, and several still bear inscriptions, though they are extremely decayed. In such a great extent of land, there is only one edifice which remains standing: it is composed of three IN I STRIA AND D ATM ATI A. m ■arches, one of Which is much higher -and larger than the other two; and is twenty-one feet in diameter. As the highest i>f these arches does not separate the smaller ones, it is easy to remark, that on the opposite side there must have been others similar to those last-mentioned; which is farther proved, by the appearance of the origin of the arch, at the external facade of one of the supporting walls of the great arch. But it is not so easy to ascertain, whether these arcades were more than five in number; and hence arises an uncertainty, as to the real intent of this structure. Its thickness will not admit it to be considered as a bridge; and its form does not corrrespond with that of an aqueduct; for, in this case, it must be supposed, that considerable masses of building must have been raised above the small arches, in order to maintain a 'eve! with the larger kind. The question then arises, whether it could have been tin; entrance to a temple, or the portico of some palace? But this is equally difficult to discover; and if this obscurity be not cleared up bv some inscriptions, which might be obtained by digging, it is presumable that no information will be acquired on the subject. Some mih's beyond these ruins, between the Convent of St. Archangeio and Kochialap, is the cascade which bears the latter name, if its fall bo not so great as that of Scardona, its appearance, though of a different character, is not less striking. The river is here of a considerable width. A bridge of sixty arches, an ancient work of the Turks, some mills, and several cottages, Bffe the picturesque objects, with which art has enriched the landscape. A considerable number of islets divide the bed of the river into canals, which are shaded by high trees in a vigorous state of vegetation. The cascade does not possess t^e monotony of great cataracts; it is not an enormous mass 01 water, which is precipitated entire into an abyss; but consists of twenty rivulets, which differ in their form, width, and the rapidity of their fall. Some of them dart proudly above the summits of the rocks, and display them to the eye, beneath the parabola described by their form; others stream lightly through chasms of rock, which have been polished by the friction of thehr waters, whose course has continued for centuries; others rudely strike against the projecting fragments, COver them with their snow-white foam, abandon them with a roaring noise, pass from one obstruction to another, fall from Considerable heights, rise again, and liually descend, and are lost m one general bed; others again, still more gentle in their progress, and obscure in their fugitive course, have wrought themselves a passage through the vast body of the mountains, whence they WOwly arrive at the lower bed of the river, and add their placid and langi!id waves to the impetuosity of tho.se from the more elevated cascades. But, if this cataract, by the agreeable variety of its numerous incidents, present a striking appearance to travellers, it must be admitted, that its cmums are effaced by the imposing and majestic aspect of that of Scardona; and, perhaps, there is no similar scene in the world, except the falls qf the .Niagara, that can be compared widi it in magni-ittence... „ This inimitable scene made such a deep impression upon *>nr truveikj, ami so greatly excited his admiration, that we shall eudeavfMU to describe it according to his own account, and thus enable the nailer to conceive himself situated at the distance of .fmn i„ jive fathoms from, and in trout of, one of the most superb (Spectacles in the, .world, " At die place where I shall suppose our small boat to be anchored, the Kctka is widest. Its calm and limpid water may be said to slide, rather than roll, over a bottom of mud, reflecting on iu surface the vacillating corn which ornaments its banks. The- almost imperceptible confines of the river, permit the eye to wander to a distance over the meadows, or to rest upon the vetflai't p'mns, enamelled with flowers, whose brilliant colour render;,.¡111010 wild and picturesque the greyish slopes of the jocks and other barren eminences, the. unequal sides of which form die escapement, of the valley. The white triangular sail, scarcely swelled by the zephjrs, conveys gently along the crystal stream the frail bark, conducted by the spiritless and enervated Dalmatian, wJ10.se idle oar rarely disturbs the smoothness of the current., A mild and soothing melancholy here prevails. The tones of.tiie shepherd, who, in some cavity of the rocks, breathes forth Ins JJb/rian .ditty, which his memory inherits from that of his ancestors, plaintively vibrate along the sides of the mountains..-^. The awful noise of the cataract is always the same, except its bfing,diniinil^4.tMy.;W^Dpe.i but being continually alike,-.without, any variation in Us mquotony, it does not seem to disturb'the geueral solitude. " x\s fhe narrow valley, through which the Kerka passes, sinks diagonally to, the light, the, mountains .which border on the two banks, appeal; to join behind the cascade, or to inclose it in a semicircular .form, ;.tThe bushy trees, the willows, and poplars, which, embellish thi; front of the scene, and rise above the dikes or terraces, parallel to the degrees to which the water of the cascade: descends, do not allow the eye to observe the course of the river, before it arrives at the spot whence it falls; but it 11 lay easily be conceived .from a bluish cloud, or rather a kind of luminous vapour, which fhe huqudiiess of the water, contracted b. n;lq JudJ Mm bmitiyvh aHj \o bod u/o.d -nil h: ayitur-^twoJtt IN ISTHlA AND I> A L M A T1 A. 7) with the celestial azure, reflects,'.horizontally, along the bases of the mountains. Above the beautiful verdure of the trees which are elegantly grouped, and profusely dispersed over the wide and rugged gluci.; vouch crosses the valley, are a number of large hills, whose barrenness and grey appearance form a striking contrast to the vigorous and brilliant colouring with which the fore-ground is decorated. At the left, and highest extremity of this glacis, is seen the solitary turret of a small end modest oratory, comtiu'ted by some ingenuous devotees. It must be confessed, that the appearance Of this little chapel produces a grateful sensation in the heart of the wise man. Yes, indeed, it is here that man can form the most sublime idea of die Almighty :—the great events of nature are the primary apostles of the divinity; for human agency could not have forced a river to surmount rocks, which seem to have been raised to oppose its progress. Art, it is true, may produce, in a garden, the captive waves of a few timid Naiads, and coniidc to the obedient marble the cure of dispersing them in reservoirs of alabaster; but (.iod alone taught the river to dart through these green and bushy masses of tree.-, whose majestic front shades and conceals from the eye the long chain of rocks which dispute its passage. The effect appears to be produced by magic: it seems as if the great number of streams proceeded from, or were propelled by, the tops of the trees, as their elastic foam apparently rolls along the roof of the forest. To the left of this sublime scene, the river appears entire, disdaining, as it Were, to collect the immense number of streams, which have deserted from it in the valley. It is here, that iu all its power and majesty it descends from three distinct and successive eminences. The surface of the water, which may be said to receive a higher polish from the velocity of its fall, rivals the purest crystal, and turns off at the angles of the long degrees assigned to it by nature. One would imagiue, from a distance, that they were enormous cylinders which alternately gave out, and received, the silvery gauze with which they were enveloped. f At the foot of these "three li.rst shelves or steps, the united summits of a few trees, whose trunks are concealed by a variety of objects in the fore-ground, intersect with a verdant line, the whole width of the cascade ; but as the river approaches, the surface of file water becomes still wider : a semicirculer terrace prolong* M* colossal propulsion over the abyss which receives it, by which its velocity is curbed. Its immense body of water lills the noble fiontour of the long and heavy terrace ; the land seems to tremolo from a distance by the weight of its fall; the air, on being displaced by the water, seems, at first, to hiss or sigh, which, at length, increases, till the noise is so terrific, that the ear i* to<4 able to su-tam it, the eye to comprise the extent of CASS Afj's- Tft A VR!,» the view, or.tlie mind to admire the awful appearance of the whole. u Hut, if the traveller feel inclined to take a more distinct view of the cascade, and tor this purpose approach nearer to thi.« gnat work of nature, then all the circumstances, which acquired a sort of harmony by the distance from which they were beheld, and the order, arrangement, and unity which seemed to prevail when the minute parts could not be inspected—all are changed, and nothing prevails hut confusion, chaos, or the most shocking distraction! There are then no longer to be Seen that uniformity of masses, that grace in the groups, that majesty in the combination; but you behold innumerable rocks, broken, ft; fctured, precipitated, and dispersed, presenting frightful points, which appear tb be rising from behind the Water and the tn es. It is no longer a river, but an ocean which roars, and rushes-with fury against the shapeless blocks which impede its passage. These, always attacked, and always capable of resistance, seem to have begun their struggle with the commencement of the world, and to hate continued in furious battle for ages, while their terrible and fugitive conqueror strikes and overcomes them, then passes away and buries himself in the sea, whence, arising in vapour, be swells the clouds, which form tempests, and, by conveying him again to the earth, enable him, perhaps after centuries, to re-commence his indefatigable career. " J3ut, however magnificent such a spectacle may appear, then* are times and circumstances under which its pomp is subject to variation: for example, when, by the return of spring, the snow is dissolved, and swells the bed of the river; or when, in the course of the summer, the waters are augmented by some accidental storm. On such occasions, the cascade entirely changes its character, and no longer presents that incalculable number of varieties, the aspects of which give it so many graces and embellishments; but it then becomes more grave, or, if 1 may be permitted to say so, more immense ; and perhaps, on this account alone, more noble, but less attractive. At such a period, the enormous mass of water partly conceals the rocks which compose the bar, and even the trees, which, at other times, seemed to sport amidst their acute summits :—sometimes evert all these objects are entirely concealed by the vastness of the inundation. The river then Occupies the whole width of the valley, and no longer suffers itself to be divided into streams, but rolling over the rocks, seems to bury them in its bowels. The weight is then increased a hundred-fold, the fall is terrible, and the noise incessant, the current carries away in its course, trees, which it has torn up by the roots, the ruins of cottages, and the carcases of animals, which have been destroyed by its sudden and unexpected fury. Tims the pleasure of the spectator is not so great but that his terror is far greater; he becomes sorrowful by the monotony of the picture, and the idea of a general destruction prevents those delightful sensations, which would otherwise be excited on beholding this grand master-work of Nature. JV1. Cassas, after having staid as long as possible at this spot to satisfy his curiosity , again descended the Kerka to regain his boat, which he had left at anchor at Sebenico, and in which he was to continue his voyage to Spalatro. Before rc-embarking, however, he took a cursory inspection of the valley and burgh of Slosella, which lies to the right on entering the bay and canal of Sebo-nico. The valhy of Slosella is a peninsula or long tongue of land, which advances between the canal of Zara and the lake of Vraiia, and is finally attached by an extremely narrow isthmus to the high mountain which is situated to the right of the bay of Sebe-nieo. The appearance of this valley is frightful, from the aridity of the mountains, their deep fractures, and the barrenness of the small portion of laud, or lather of the dust collected hi their chasms. In this obscure comer of the world live a horde, the most savage, or rather the most weak and brutal of any in Dal maiia, or perhaps even on all the Continent. This truly degraded race has no other instinct than that of destruction. In these districts there are to be found neither corn, useful plants, lives, nor fruits ; antl the wretched people tear up, without reason or prudence, all that the land attempts to bring forth for their support. But their inconceivable ignorance may be imagined, when it is known, that while they actually root up trees, grain, and even grass, they respect rushes, broom, and thorns! Having by such madness become unworthy of finding proper food to support their mis-! able existence, they are obliged to subsist Upon shell and other lish, which the sea deposits on the sands, or which the pity of some fishermen from ihe neighbouring countries grants to the relief of their disgusting indigence. Without care, energy, industry, or even ideas, they remain all day silting before the doors of their miserable hovels, or on the rocks which sir -round them: their physiognomy is wan, shrivelled up by the sun, and disgusting by filth; their looks are ghastly; their hair bla k and stringy; their body is meagre; their limbs are dishrevelle I, Juid (heir stature is disproportioned. They are more timid th m ^ieked, more brutal than ferocious J they do not appear to be ' ' ptible of the most simple ideas; they are equally dull in comprehension, retention, and imitation ; and they seem to have 110 conception that, the world is capable of affording any thini, either useful, convenient, or agreeable. CASSAS.] J. 74 CASÍAS'S TRAVELS Jf we wore to describe these people as savages, it would be an insult to the human race ; for ihey have neither the candour, thé affecting èimplicfty, the pride nor the. independence of the latter. Savages aie the first link of the chain of human nature : these people appear to be the last. Their origin is unknown ; but it is pretended that they formerly rendered themselves terrible to the Turks. Pi maps, if One wen; permitted to stop at conjectures, this circumstance, which doubtless derives its origin from seme obscure traditions, would lead us to suppose that these people are the Unfortunate remains of the Uscoques or Sclavo-riiáhs already mentioned, who, under the oppression to which they have been subjected, have lost for ever, not merely the dignity, but even the intelligence and reason of human nature. These observations of our traveller agree with the opinion of the celebrated Fortis, who, when speaking of the natural history of this part of the county of Sebenico, and of the vast quantity of fish which arrive in all seasons in the environs of Slosclla, says, '* Notwithstanding the abundance and variety of these fish, the lazy inhabitants of Slosclla neglect all the advantage to lu; derived from them ; they pass the whole day in the open air, and devour, without broad, anil often without cooking, all the fish they can procure. In the spring, these indolent peasants live entirely upon euttfe-fish, Which they catch by immerging in the rivers the branches of frees, to which this fish adheres for the purpose of spawning. If a more difficult method were necessary to procure this kind of food, they would, I firmly believe, rather starve than resort to it. They are the enemies of their own welfare, as w^ell is of that of others ; for, in order to oppose the introduction of drag-nets, which had been attempted by their lord, the Abbé Jerome Draganjch Varenzio, they threw large stones into the ponds, rivers, and about the shores, though that method et scito-f/ccrmo." This fragment eontaried the Feast of Trimalcion, such as appears in modem editions. The manuscript, or rather the copy of the manuscript of the author, if it be true that this fragment was written by Petronius, is not now at Trau, and Fortis did not see it. According to Spon, the writing was fine, and very legible : all the pieces contained in the collection were done by the same hand ; and the heads of the chapters and poems wen- written with blue or red ink. There is cer-tainlv no doubt that this is a manuscript of the fifteenth century; but does this prove that it is a copy made from the original, or from a copy itself, so ancient as to be contemporary with the time of Petronius, and thus to remove all doubt relative to the subjectP However this may be, the discovery of the manuscript in question is generally attributed to Doctor Pierre Petit, physician, of Paris, who successfully devoted himself to the cultivation of Latin poetry, and was one of the sewn who formed what was then called the Latin Pleiade of Paris. He died in IfiS". It was in \(j()5 that he found at Trau the manuscript alluded to; it was printed in 1666 at Padua and at Paris ; and then began the literary warfare, which ceased on the manuscript being deposited m the library Of Paris, where it still remains. Equal success, however, did not attend other1 fragments of the same author which, it was pretended, were afterwards discovered at Belgrade. IN 1 STRIA AND DALMATlA . The isle of Bua, under the Empire, bore the name of Boas, and was rendered of importance by the exile of several celebrated personages, if those persons should be called celebrated, who, by theological disputes, which were termed heretical, disturbed men's consciences, and excited doubts, which are always more fatiguing than absolute belief, or negative incredulity; and who, by their vain subtleties, infused discord in states, and fanaticism in parties. The agreeable situation of the place, however, and the mildness of its climate, did not render their exile rigorous. It is highly favoured by nature1, since it produces the fruits bath of Europe and Asia, while the palm-trees of the burning soil of Africa are naturalized in it with success: the dates, however, do not attain that maturity which is necessary to make them valuable. The isle of Bua furnishes that precious bitumen, known to naturalists by the uame of asphaltes, and which it is asserted was employed by the Egyptians for embalming the remains of their kings. Trau, as well as Bua, is sedulously cultivated, hut principally along the shore, to the width of about a quarter of a French league inland; because the hills of the internal parts present many obstacles to a more enlarged cultivation. Trau gives its name to a county, whose extent is not simply confined to the isle in question, but comprises a considerable part of the continent in front of it.—It was there that our traveller saw the fine plain of ( at Padua and at Paris ; and then began the literary warfare, which ceased on the manuscript being deposited in the library of Paris, where it «,till remains. Equal success, however, did not attend other fragments of the same author which, it was pretended, were afterwards discovered at Belgrade. The i.slc of I3ua, under the Empire, bore the name of Boas, and was rendered of importance by the exile of several i it.—It was there that our traveller saw the fine plain of Cas-(vlH, so greatly extolled by all authors who have written upon Ulyria, and which extends from Trau as far as the ruins of the ancient Salona. It may be truly said, that in no other country is the art of cultivating the vine and olive-tree carried to greater perfection; for there are exported annually from the little county of Trail 13,000 barrels of excellent oil, and ¿0,000 hogsheads of very fine wine : figs and ahnontls are also amongst the number of itsr»chesj but it does not furnish wheat in proportion. But amidst so many agreeable circumstances, Providence has "cut a plague, which is unfortunately indestructible ;—it is that of insects. The temperature and short duration of winter, Jrhich is in general very mild, and ill all the low parts of this eountry is scarcely felt for two months in the year, preserves them from death, though iheir delicacy would prove their destruction, if they were subjected for two or three days to even a BUght frost. All the grain is generally infested by a destructive £Orm, which is here called MflgnftCOZ. These little insects blast the hopes of the most abundant harvests; and perhaps the impossibility of opposing J^aeir ravages is partly the cause that the illustrious agriculturist prefers the culture of the vine and olive to "'■at of wheat, which would succeed SO we'll on account of the general fertility of the soil. But the existence of man being here. < AS,s.\_s..] M attacked, by trie destruction of the articles necessary- for his «ntp-port, is only an inferior misfortune: his very life is every instant in danger, from the assaults of two species of venomous tarantula. These insects are known in the Illyrirm dialect hy the ge-r neric name of Panic, which is applied to all species of spiders ; hut one of then! is the real tarantula, so well known, and justly dreaded, in Calabria. The other is the Corsican Tarantula, known in that island under the name of Malmignutn ; and which differs from the fust by having shorter legs: but they both have the common properly with those of Naples, of being hairy and speckled ; while, if any variety be perceptible, it is only in the colours. These odious insects, whose very appearance is disgusting; do not possess the timidity of other kinds, who flee from the sight and approach of man ; but tin y are at once mischievous, impudent, and ferocious. The) bite, not for the purpo-e of defending themselves, or of procuring food, but from an evident wish to do injury ; and it is only by continual vigilance, that those whose labours keep them in the fields the whole ol the summer, can secure themselves from their attacks; and their precautions are often unavailing. What they are particularly obliged to avoid, is sleeping in the open air, either in meadows, at the foot of trees, or on the stacks of grain which are got in. Fortunately, these insects seldom penetrate into the houses; so that the fields are the theatre of iheir animosity. Their bile produces In re the same effect, as in Calabria and Corsica; and their poison is communicated to the blood with dreadful rapidity. The most effectual reim dy is to cut. off immediately the pieceof flesh which has received the impression of their teeth, or to cauterize the wound with burning charcoal, or a hot iron : the least delay often proves fatal; a heaviness is then speedily felt over the whole frame ; the circulation is checked ; the blood coagulates; drowsiness succeeds, and is attended with convulsions and delirium, which terminate in death. A violent agitation is the only means of preserving the patient from the destruction which threatens him ; and it is the acknowledged necessity of this agitation which has given rise to the opinion, that the venom of the tarantula is to be expelled by unis'c. It is how ever certain, that in the county of Trau they do not have recourse to music, but exercise the patient violently, and for a long time, in a kind of swing:—this produces abundant transpiration, and sometimes nausea, which saves the person's life, by diminishing the mass of venom absorbed, and restoring the blood to its proper circulation. But although life is thus preserved, it is, unfortunately, but very seldom that the fibres of the brain are unaffected; so that the patient often loses his senses. IN ISTRIA ANfi DAtMATIA, 83 Alter taking* a r-apitl glance over the. isles of Trail and Bua, M. Cassas doubled the most eastern point of the latter; and his pilot leaving the cape to the north, he was soon in sight of Spalatro, which is situated at the bottom of a bay of the same name. To the left, and before entering this bay. that is, on arriving from the sea? there is a deep gulph, closed to the south, by the coasts of the isle of Una ; to the: north, by the shore which extends from the Puuta di San Stephauo to San George; on the west, by the coast of the continent; while to the east is the opening by which this gulph empties itself into thcVanal of lhasa. On proceeding westwards, up this gulph, you find in the north angle the channel of Salona, where the river of that name discharges itself; but, in order to discover it, it is necessary to seek for it in the extremity of the gulph; because, being in an angle, it seems in the perspective, as if the coast of Spalatro adhered to that of the continent, though it is on the opposite side of the canal of Salona. On arriving from the sea you find the bay of Spalatro. closed on one side by a tolerably high cape, called Puuta di San Stephauo ; and on the other by a kind of promontory, on which are still perceptible the ruins of a fortification, called the fortress .Delle Holui'lle. This fort defended the isthmus, by which the promontory is attached to the Continent; and as the fortified part commands the land, it seems to have been Constructed for preventing the enemy, in case of a siege, from occupying this position, by which they might be able to cut off the Communication between Spalatro and the sea. The fortifications, however, were inconsiderable, and they derived their principal advantage from their elevated situation, whence they could tire down upon the plain that separates the promontory from the high mountain, on which is built the fort of la Crippe, which we shall presently speak of, They consisted of a single wall, flanked by two irregular, ami two demi-bastions. At the entrance of the bay you discover Spalatro, and nothing is more interesting than this perspective. The first range of buildings which strikes the eye, are the high and long walls which inclose the Lazaretto: at one end they reach to the great mole which encircles the port; and at the other they join the fortifications of the town, and seem, of themselves, an immense and formidable rampart, with which an attempt had been made to cover this part of Spalatro. la front, and on the edge of the quay, which extends along the port, inclosed between the great and small mole, there appears, with such majesty as is undescriba-ble, the august remains of the long and stupendous colonnade which decorated the maritime facade of the palace of Diocletian: it immediately gives an idea of this Colossus of architecture, particularly to those who know that this colonnade occupies only one H 2 of tin' narrow facrs of the parallellogram which formed the palace. Beyond this colonnade von perceive, with some difficulty, the roofs of the modern buildings, constructed within the walls of the palace; but the eve is delighted to behold, rising from the midst of this prodigious mass of ruins, a square tower, five stone* high, and decorated with different orders of architecture. It is that of the Cathedral, or Duoiim, which is likwise inclosed within the Walls of this palace; while at one of the angles of these mural stiuctures, rise the thick sides of another gloomy and embattled lower, the gothic aspect of which excites a melancholy recollection of those barbarous Vandals who effaced as it were from the earth the sovereign people of the world, as well as of those great monarchs the Cu-sars, who, even iu the midst of disgrace were able to lay the foundation of monuments Which empires could scarcely raise in the midst of their splendour. To the left the town is more exposed, and sinks beneath the view, while the appearance of the modest rools of the simplo citizens tends to console the mind for the melancholy impression it has received from viewing the ruins of the imperial palace, the lazaretto and the feudal towers, those mute evidences of the most fatal plagues of mankind, pestilence, war, and pride! But while through the trees with which the ramparts are shaded, you distinguish the walls which form the defence of Spalatro, and the two extremities of which terminate on the shore, ihe view which clears this warlike cincture extends agreeably across the irregularly united houses, which compose on one side the suburbs of Lucio,and on the other of Borgu-Grande. It is there that in the trees which crown them, in the chearful opulence of the orchards, and iu the verdure of the gardens, we are charmed on beholding the beauty of nature in a picPUre from which, in all ages, the arts appear to have been inclined to banish it, though in vain. Here nature is still great, even by the side of all in which man has endeavoured to appear greater. \\ hat, in short, are the gigantic ruins of Spalatro, when compared to the Mount of Ma-rigliana, the feet of which seem to repel the waves of the bay. while its summit defies the tempest ? What is Spalatro itself at the base of this enormous mountain, on whose top the defiance and fury of man have built the bulwarks of war, and deposited the apparatus of battle ! How does that pyramid appear which was erected by the art of man at a prodigious expeiice to decorate the temple of the gods, when il is seen from the prodigious range of steep rocks, of mountains heaped upon mountains, which bound the horizon, and form the frame-work of that incommensurate colisaMun, in the centre of which Spalatro, notwithstanding ita magnificence, may be said to disappear. Hence, on entering the bay, the high mountain of Marighano, or Maigliano, on oua JN ! STRIA A"N T) l)Ai,MA71 A. side, on die odier the promontoiy and its esearpement ; farther Dili the rock which supports the fort oí hi Grippe ; in the valley, Spalatro, its lazaretto, ruins, and steeples ; at the horwon a chain of the mountains of Morhichia :—such are the masses which at once strike the eye, and remind the observer of the perishable state of his power, the indefatigable destruction of time, and tht "boldness of savage nature. Spalatro is one of the keys of Venetian Dalmatia. in the hi;*-torical monuments, whose date may be traced for five or six centuries, it is called Spalatum, Spalctum, and Aspalatmn. I have jus! observed, that these monuments are live or six hundred years old, and in this respect I shall appear to contradict the Statements of our Encyclopaidia, which stales their antiquity to be only four hundred years: but 1 must observe, that on ibis oc-casinu, the cfhunsof the Encyclopaedia appear to have literally Copied the words of Spon. Ñow, Spon wrote, or travelled in Ki74, the Eucyclopa'dia did not appear till a hundred years alter him, and consequently the date, according to his statement, must now be five hundred years. Jf this little inaccuracy were to be imitated, and if in several centuries hence, for example, when writing about Spalatro, one were to copy from the Eucyclopa'dia and Spon, without quoting the authority, it might happen that the reader, either from inattention or want of information, would attribute the date of these monuments even to the time when those who wrote about them, were considering them to be four hundred years old ! 1 may even add, that perhaps the uncertainty which prevails in generalas to dates, in historical accounts, mayi have arisen from such kind of negligence, and that historians, on Copying chronicles or memoirs, which were several centuries anterior to their labours, forgetting to take into their calculation the periods when they wrote, have transferred themselves imperceptibly to those when the materials were produced, which theyha\e consulted. Hence, what in the tune of Spon composed a period of four hundred years, and which should have been calculated at five hundred by the editors tí the Encyclopedia, ought to be reckoned by me at from five to six hundred. Of the various denominations abovementioned, Spon prefers the name of Spafato as most conformable to the original, in pre> fci 'encelo that of Spalatro, which, however, has prevailed. He 'tipposes that the various names Spaktum, Spalatum, and Js-Pvlatum, which have since been converted by the Italians into BftfJato or Spalatro, are derived from the Latin Paiatittm, which Was given to that place in particular, on account of the palace of Ibuejetian, which, as we learn from local traditions, as well as from the Writings of Constantino Porphyrogeuelus, was distant *JJly one league bom Salona, the native towu of that emperor- CASS ASS TT!Arr.T,» This opinion is supported fay the exactness of the distance which is to fie proved correct, even at the present day ; and it refutes the error of those learned men who have pretended that Spalatro v.as the ancient Eju'lium, while it certifies that the ruins of the latter are seven miles distant, and may be seen at the mouth of the little river of Zavnovissa. In a commercial point of view, Spalatro was a town of great importance, to the Republic of Venice. It was the staple of the trade which was carried on by land with the Turks ; and all the caravans which came, from Turkey proceeded thither, where they deposited their merchandizes, which were afterwards conveyed by sea to Venice, while this capital dispersed them throughout Europe; These caravans did not merely secure to it the commerce of, and communication with, the continent; but the s:;h ty and convenience of its port, permitted the largest merchant ships to anchor in it, and thus to procure it the most advantageous export trade with the islands of Greece, the Archipelago, Egypt, and the whole of the Levant. Hence it was this perpetual intercourse between the Oriental people and inhabitants of Spalatro, which determined the latter to build the Lazaretto, certainly one of the finest edifices of the kind in any of the maritime towns of Europe; The commission or staple trade of this town comprehends a vast number of articles which are received principally from Turkey, but likewise from Bosnia, Croatia, Sec.—Amongst other manufactures are those of iron, copper utensils, a very coarse kind of cloth, elastic woollens, leather, cotton, wheat, silk, or- i)iment, wax, dried fruits, and several kinds of pulse. For h ong time, not only Venice, but all the other Republics ami Stales of Italy, the Barbary Powers, and even the French and Spaniards came to this port to take in cargoes of those various goods; and till the middle of the 1 1th century, there arrived in crowds, the vessels of the Genoese, Tuscans, Tunisians, Mar-scillois, &c; but the discovery of the New AVorld, and the voyage to India by way of the Cape of Good Hope, having imperceptibly increased commercial speculations, and given a new direction to navigation, the trade of Spalatro was affected by the change. But this was gradually diminished without being M&thely destroyed, and it is even now, if we except Trieste, ot all the maritime towns on this coast, that which possesses the jnosl extensive Commercial intercourse. The opulence which ifffeu s from an extensive commerce, has a sensible enact Upon manners, which consist of a combination of luxury, urbanity, and politi ness. The inhabitants of Spalatro are obliging, a liable, and hospitable to strangers, and appear to attach much value to the labours which curious, well-informed IN ISTRTA AND DA LM ATI A. 87 travellers and artists are inclined to undergo in examining the monuments of their town. They are phased when speaking of the magnificence of these relics, and seem anxious to explain the nio.'t minute particulars, in their conversation of) ibis subject they appear like men who have a perfect knowledge of history. They may be said to have a little of that boasting manner which distinguishes the Ciceroni of Italy ; but injustice it must also be added, that they cannot be reproached with the ignorance of the latter. They have made enquiries with respect to most subjects, have few doubts which they cannot cJear up, and hear few objections which they do not discuss in an erudite manner. It must be understood, that 1 speak only of that class of men, who have received a liberal education j for the people, who are more la borious here than in any other part of Dahnatia, devote themselves entirely to trade, general industry, and maritime occupations ; and their information is consequently limited to the mean which are absolutely necessary for their existence : but the uniform politeness of the inhabitants of Spalatro is in a great degree owing to their continual communication with foreigners. The majority of the opulent individuals send their children to be educated at Venice, Rome, Padua, Vienna, and even to Güttingen and Holland : hence they receive at an early period not only the first rudiments of general knowledge under distinguished professors, but likewise ideas of the manners of different nations; ideas which it is useful for all men to acquire in their youth, because they tend to abolish national prejudices, while they enrich the juvenile mind with what is necessary to be known with respect to others, and teach it, by objects of comparison, to value in their own country that only which is founded on good principles. These various qualities are, however, if I may so express myself, washed over with a sort of Venetian varnish, which is rather injurious to their candour, and imparts to them a kind of tinsel ornament or affected uniformity which disparages them, particularly in the eyes of a Frenchman. Their ceremonious behaviour is extreme; their etiquette fatiguing, and their expressions of respect iu-f xhaustible; and it is well known that the manners of capitals degenerate in provinces irJfO ridiculous affectation. W ith the exception however of this trivial inconvenience, 1 found here all the wisdom and firmness of mind which distinguished the ancient government of the Republic of V/ice//tj: it is the last-mentioned part that you pass, to reach the ancient fort Delie Boticelle, already alluded to, and to ascend by a path cut with much art in tin !orm of steps, to the citadel called the fort La Grippe. This 1 tadej, as wtll as tin town, has no external works: it consist* of a wall, ilaukcd with IN TSTltlA AND DALMATIA. 9* five irregular bastions; on the inside is a second wall, or rather a sort of redan, of winch the gorge is open. Its southern angle is defended by a small bastion ; aud the branches of its curtains end in two square, hut unequal, towers, [t may be seen, that there is nothing to be dreaded from this citadel ; as the only advantage it derives is from its situation. As for the town, it is commanded from almost every point; aud could with difficulty be secured from a coup de main. These various modern fortifications are the work of the Chevalier Vernede. If, generally speaking, the greater part of the merchants reside in the second moiety of the town, me finest edifices are, nevertheless, built in mat contained within the walls of the Palace of Diocletian. Hen; are situated the cathedral, the palace of the archbishop, and several other considerable structures. The market, the hospiud, and several convents, are situated in the Other part of the town. The government of Venice supported here only a feeble garrison, which was at most composed but of a few companies of cavalry and infantry, and were intended merely for the police of the place. It was at the fortress of Clissa that the V 6* netians generally kept the forces which they stationed in this part of Dahnalia, because it defends the defiles through which the Turks, the only enemies they have long had to fear in this country, would be obliged to pass before they could arrive at Spa-latro. Though there still exists in this town a prodigious quantity of the remains of the magnificent palace of Diocletian, one of the greatest fragments of antiquity in Europe, it is impossible not to regret, that the inhabitants are allowed to construct modern buildings in the inside of this palace; for, besides that this practice obtrudes infinite impediments to those researches, which would conduce to determine its ancient and earliest compartments, it is also evident, that its superb materials have been applied to the formation of recent habitations; and it is not to be doubted, that fhe ruin of monuments, which, for centuries yet to come might have attracted the admiration of travellers, and served for the study of historians and antiquaries, has been facilitated by the proceedings of avarice aud ignorance. But who would believe that the ^habitants of Spalatro arc not contented with despoiling the pa; '■'<<■ of Diocletian, bul they have likewise seized upon all the "U< st remains of Salona to build houses, and even to make simple enclosures. c A few hours before arriving at Spalatro, M. Cassas fell in with four beautiful Venetian gallics. The Republic often sent these vessels in time of war towards those countries, where they rf,maincd to cruize for the protection of commerce from the attempts of the pirates, who, as has been already observed, frequent V 8 the seas in this region, and would infest them to a still greater extent, hut for this precaution of the government. These four galleys cast anchor at Spalatro almost at the same instant that our traveller arrived there. On lauding, his taste, as much as the object of his voyage, guided him immediately towards that part of the town contained within the walls of the palace of Diocletian; and he took up his lodging at an inn, situated between the columns of the great vestibule. He devoted the first evening to rest, which was necessary after the fatigue he had experienced in visiting the cascade of Scardona, and in the passage from Sebe-nico to Spalatro. The next day he delivered letters of recommendation to several inhabitants of this town ; and they procured him the acquaintance of His Excellency Count Peruta, the Arch-* bishop Caraguini, Count Cambi, the Chancellor, M. liorgu-. tti-chi, a learned antiquarian, and several other individuals of high respectability : the whole of his subsequent employment was visiting the ruins; but, before we follow him in his vicious visits to them, we shall attempt to give an idea of that magnificent palace, such as it was when inhabited by Diocletian. We have already observed that its figure was a parallelogram; jit was 630 feet long, by 510 in width. Its principal facade*» supposed to be that which looked towards the sea. It was this which was decorated by the superb colonnade that still remains almost entire, and which consisted of fifty columns ; at present only forty-two arc standing. This colonnade formed a gallery twenty-five feet in width ; while its length occupied, the whole of the f cade : and ill the interior of this gallery were the apartments exclusively inhabited by the Emperor. The entrance to this amazing palace was, and still is, by three principal gates. The first is at the north front, and is called l:orla A urea, or the Gojden Gatej the two others are at the east and west facades ; their particular denomination, if they had any, has not been transmitted to posterity. Each of these gates had two octagonal tow-' : , whose height did not exceed that of the edifice in general. There was also a square tower at each angle of the palace. Each of these towers was eighteen feet higher than the walls. Two of them contained four stories, while the others had only three; this difference arose from the elevation of the facade with the colonnade being seventy-four feet; while the three other fronts were only iiftv-live; so that the two towers that corresponded with the two ends of the colonnade were of necessity cai-ried higher than those which were built at the opposite angles ; lastly, m the interval between the octagonal towers of the gates and the towers of the angles there was an additional square-tow i r, but the height of which, did not exceed that of the wall:—» the total number of these various towers was sixteen, because the ('a.vri.* Travels //l'r //tftt //.,> //f( /J*ff/tnr Cjf C v"'c^//rr/t, f//, tfïf/r//'(> . IN 1STRTA AND DALMAT1A. facade of the colonnade had no others than those which corresponded with its two extremities. A large portico was erected on the inside, along the wall of the north, east, and west facade ; and was only interrupted by the massy sides of the three gates, on the reverse of which were the stairs which communicated with the upper apartments. On entering by the Golden Gate, then1 appeared in front a hirge street, formed by a vast portico, and which extended as far as the peristyle of what was properly called the Palace, or the part which was inhabited by Diocletian. This street was intersected at a right-angle, ami nearly in the centre of the whole edifice, by another street of equal width, and likewise decorated with a portico, which extended from the eastern to the western gate. Hence on entering, for example, at the Golden Gate, you had on the right and left two large ranges of building, equal in proportion, bat not so in point of interior arrangement: they were surrounded at two of their faces by the portico lately mentioned ; while the two other faces which looked towards the external walls of the edi-fice, were separated by large courts, which were formed between these buildings and the general portico. Of these two buildings, that on the right was appropriated to the women, while that on the left was occupied by the principal officers in the service of the Emperor. After passing these buildings and quitting the transverse street, you found yourself in a superb colonnade, which was terminated by the steps and facade of the peristyle. Between the columns there appeared on one side the Temple of Ksculapius, and on the other the Temple of Jupiter:—as both of these are still entire, we shall speak of them hereafter. To enter the grand building, or the part of the palace inhabited by Diocletian, you ascended the peristyle just mentioned, by a flight of steps : the front of this peristyle was supported by four columns; and it led to a magnificent circular vestibule, admirably proportioned, which derived the light from its cupola ■ it was decorated with four niches, which contained statues. In front: of the door leading to this vestibule, was that through which vou arrived at the principal hall of the palace. This apartment was ninety-five feet long, by seventy-five wide; to the right and left six columns, of a prodigious elevation, supported the vault or deling of this hall, leaving on each side, between them and the wall, a Jctnd of sjde-way, or walk, not quite so long- as the hall; and at the end of which were two flights of spiral stairs, which led to the subterraneous parts, and the back-door of the palace, which opened on the sea-shore. This grand hall had a large and majestic door, by which you entered the great gallery already mentioned: the hall was denominated Atrium. 14 cassas's TitAvra.s All the palaces of the Romans contained halls of this kind, and which bore a similar name. Writers differ in opinion as to the nature of those apartments ; but they all agree, that the Atrium was situated at the entrance of the palaces and great houses.— Some, however, think that it was a kind of court which preceded the vestibule, while others consider it as the vestibule itself 5 and lastly, several assert it to be the hall which succeeded the vestibule, as for example.—Martial, when speaking of the Atrium of the celebrated palace of Nero, seems to indicate, that it was placed in the same situation as Ave have described that to be in the palace of Diocletian. " It was in the Atrium," says he, " that 3011 saw the colossus of Nero, and the machines which belonged to the theatre, Pegmaia" He denominates it Atria regis, while Suetonius seems to cast some obscurity on this definition, by calling I eslihuliim, what Martial denominates Atrium. It cannot, however, be doubted, that they both mean the same place, since Suetonius says, " Vestibulum ejus fait in quo colos&m" &c. It is nevertheless certain, that the Atrium differed from the courts, inasmuch a,s it was covered in, and was situated at the entrance of the mansions. When the virtues were, however, honoured in the Republic, the mothers of a family, the Roman ladies, frequently passed their time in this hall, where they employed themselves amidst their numerous domestics, and attended at. once to their children and their houshold affairs. During winter the Atrium was heated by chafing dishes, and fires plated in tripods. In process of time, and when luxury had made that alarming progress which led Rome to slavery and destruction, the Atrium was abandoned to the vassals, and they attended in it to receive the orders of their masters. It was here that the crowd of clients, Avho served in the streets as a retinue to the consuls, senators, magistrates, and tribunes, assembled to await their egress. The emperors came into the Atrium to give audience to the ambassadors of foreign kings and princes; and the haughty patricians decorated it with the images of their ancestors ; the generals, with the trophies of their victories; and the pro-consuls, with the spoils of provinces, and the fruit of their rapine. In general, the cielijigs were hung with purple, and the columns which sustained it, were of porphyry, granite, or other marble still more valuable. In short, the pomp or the simplicity of the Atrium, was a sure token of the vices or the virtues of the master of the palace, and on entering this part of the building, one might preconceive a tolerably just idea of his pride, his simplicity, or his avarice. We may judge, for example, by the gigantic proportion of that of the palace we are describing, of the means which Diocletian took to preserve the remembrance of the colossal power he bad enjoyed, as well as of the invincible propensity IN lSTltlA AND DALMATlA. which accompanied him throughout his life for grand and majestic monuments, the last remains of winch now form at Spalatro the subject of wonder and admiration. The two parts of the palace which were on the right and left of the Atrium, were exactly similar in their distribution ; and from this •ircumstauce it may be supposed that the emperor occupied each division alternately, perhaps according to sonic etiquette founded upon the change of seasons ; from some prejudice which prevailed in those distant ages, or from a religious practice relative to the worship of the gods, with the ceremonies of which we are unacquainted. This last motive may reasonably he imagined, since one of the divisions contained the temple of Esctf-lapius, and the other the temple of .Jupiter, while the interior apartments led through each other immediately to those temples. May it not be asserted, as a reason for this extraordinary resemblance in the arrangement of the two parts, that Diode*-tian might have presumed, that Maximian Hercules, his colleague in the empire, and whose abdication, which was solicited by (Valerius, was of the same date as his own, might come to visit him in his retreat; that he might be anxious to give him the same ac^ commodation in his palace as he enjoyed himself, without the most minute difference ; or that his intention might be that there should always prevail between them in their private life that amicable equality which was never altered by the division of the sovereign power ? It will, however, be sufficient to give a description of one of these two parts, since the other was exactly similar in form, the only difference being in the names given to the apartments, which doubtlessly corresponded to the uses to which they were devoted. It would appear from the distribution of this palace, that the architects of the early ages did not attach the same merit as we do to those majectic communications between the large divisions of an edifice, and which at the present day we distinguish by the Trench appellation of enfilades. It is, however, certaiu, that if the entrance were by means of handsome lateral doors, from the halls on each side, the magnificence of the view would be increased : on the contrary, in order to arrive at those halls or chambers, they passed from the Atrium into two very narrow corridors, which were besides so aukvvardly placed, that, of the three doors in which they terminated, and which opened into three magnificent halls, whether to the right or to the left of the Atrium, two of the doors were situated in the angles of these halls. Of the two parts of the edifice, which on each side of the Atrium were parallel to the great gallery, the first was appropriated to concerts and theatrical representations, and the second to certain regular festivals: they were eighty-five feet long by fifty-eight wide, and their ridings were supported by eighteen columns. The distance between these columns and the walls \vas ten feet in every part, so that.there was a suffice nt space for walking round the hill, or lor placing rows of seats for the accommodation of the spectators, while the middle remained entirely free for the amusements. That which was destined for the festivals was not, however, the only one appropriated to that purpose : in om half of the two first-mentioned halls there were also two other smalller ones, though these were of a very considerable size, ami served only for repasts. They were distinguished by the epithets Corinthian and Cizician, and they ■derived these names from their decorations or from the nature of the festivities which took place within them. But even these were not sufficient, for there were on the sides of the latter two other tetrastyle halls, which were likewise appropriated to feasting ; and as they were nearest to the two temples, they doubtless served for the repasts which followed the sacrifices. Beyond the halls or chambers just mentioned, were the hot-baths. They were large and commodious, and the descent to them was by steps constructed at the four angles. Three chambers were attached to these baths. The first was the Apodi/te-rion, the use of which, as well as its name, was derived from the Greeks : it was either the place where the hot water was prepared, or that used for wrestling or gymnastic exercises. The Romans frequently called it by the generic name Ap<,i'.(<>- ■<*"■' IN 1STRIA AND DAT.MATIA. 101 Jupiter: in fact it is not known on what circumstance this opinion is founded. The surname of Jovius, which was assumed by Diocletian, while his colleague Maximian took that of Jlerculiux, mav perhaps have given rise to it: the bas-reliefs, however, with which the interior frize is oruumcntcd, and which represents Hunting Genii, as well as the busts in modillions which appear between tlum, w ou.ld afford much greater reason to suppose that this Corinthian temple was dedicated to Diana. The scale of this monument of antiquity, is considerable. Its external height, from the pavement of the gallery which surrounds it, to the top of the roof, is fifty-three feet and a half, and sixty-three, including the base of the colonnade. Each face of the OCtagOtJ is tv enty-tive feet and a half in the interior of the edifice, and thirty-five feet and a half at the external gallery. The height of the columns, including their bases and capitals, is iiim U en feet, by two in diameter; their base is two feet, and their entablature seven. It was toppc.il with statues larger than life; but tin v have disappeared. The elevation of the octagonal roof, winch covered the interior arch, or dome, was twenty-two feet. This g.;v bo the whole edifice, from the soil to the summit, u height of eighty-live fee t. This monument is internally of a circular form, and presents a fine rotunda, the diameter of which is forty-two feet. < Its h. tgbt, from the ground to the origin of the dome, is forty-five, not including that of the cupola itself; eight Corinthian columns of thl proportion of twenty-four feet support an entablature, of which the architrave, frizes", and cornices, are extremely rich in fi::'; true; and this is followed by a second composite order, en re/i oil, on which rests the dome. These composite columns are twf uiv-.'wo feet high, including their capitals. The dome, which is ail a brick-vwrk, is in a good state of preservation, and there ni;;. in s im< places be perceived the morter, or stucco with which it wa- coien I'.and on which there were iSoubiiess either of fresco dec nations, or paintings. Eight niches, of which four are square, and four semicircular, surmounted by arcades with imposts, are made in the walls around the rolunda. Although tins cibiice must be allowed to possess some dignity, and that its inside has a grand and magnificent appearance, it must nevertheless he admitted, that its style is not pure : the jut-tings of the cornices of the twp orders, the columns surmounted by others, the excessive h< :>vines of the entablatures, and several other defects of a similar nature, produce a disagreeable appearance to the eye ; and it may easily be discovered, that at this period architecture had made rapid progress towards its decline. It is to be attributed to the false taste which pomp and riches, always eager for ornaments, had forced the architect!? of that period to adopt; and it may readily be supposed that 102 CASS ASS TRAVELS prince), who, like Diocletian, had quilted the Roman toga for the costume and luxuries of Asiatic sovereigns, were incased to value every decoration, not in proportion to its beauty, but its richness, for when we Consider the pure style of the door of this temple, and of the external gallery, it is easy to be convinced (hat the architects of that period were still sensible of die beauties of the antique, and that they knew how to study them with advantage. Of this gajteiv there still remain some very considerable fragments; and several large portions of the cieling are to be met with. Nothing is at once more noble, grand, and simple ; and if the ruins still excite so much respect, if the involuntary melancholy which tin- mind experiences on viewing these colossal remains, the destruction of which reminds one of that terrible decree of fate attached to the works of man, that all. shall perish ; if these reflection.--, cannot prevent the admiral on of the beholder, what must it have been when this superb portico appeared as it came from the hands of the architect, in all its harmonious unity and indescribable splendour. According to the custom of the ancients, this temple received no light; but since it has been converted into a church, windows have been opened in it. A great part of the external colonnade still remains; and the only parts that are entirely wanting, are the three faces or fronts ot the edifice which looked towards the southern points; while, from the arrangement ot the modern buildings, which on this side stand quite close to the temple, it is very probable that they have been voluntarily destroyed by ignorance. At the five other fronts all the columns are preserved; but the communication is here and there interrupted by unseemly houses, which have been made to rest against the walls of the temple. There are, consequently, only the facades which are contiguous to the door that have been left free; though here also there have been placed, between the columns, huge sarcophagi; some antique, and others of the ear-fust ages of the church, which, not having been made for their present situation, produce a disagreeable effect, and give to those fine ruins'va clnuacter which is totally foreign from their object, j On standing in the centre of the rotunda, and turnn g towards the grand door, von perceive an opening which has been effected by < banco rather than taste, between the buildings that encumber the great portico which precedes the vestibule of the palace, and whit h is called, as i have already observed, the Place of the Cathedral. This opening exposes to view in the distance the facade of the Temple of Esculapius. The perspective certainly has in it something grand and theatrical: the profound silence of the IN I ST It I A AND DAT.MATIA. r'clifice in which the spectator is placed; the majestic height of die columns which serve as the avenue ; the immense number of arcades and pilasters, between which is the distance which separates you from the Temple of Esculapius ; this tempi* itself, whose facade is of the finest style, but much decayed, forces the imagination hack to times of antiquity, as its position withdraws it in the perspective. This union of harmony, and combination of grave and mute subjects, the witnesses of past centuries, excite a sort of admiration,—I had almost said of religious awe, of which it is difficult to divest oneself. It might be observed, that the compass which describes around us the circle of life, is opened in the hands of Nature, and that the mind can no longer attain the extremity of the line. It seeks in the immense space for man, but finds only the works of his genius; vet what remains of his understanding ?--Nothing but the filiation of ideas of the divinity. Every thing is dead, except the sentiment of immortality ! The Temple of Esculapius was much less in size than that of Jupiter or Diana, which we have just described. It was internally not more than twenty-four feet long, by sixteen wide. The order of its architecture was Corinthian; its lateral walls, which were six feet thick, were without any ornament on either side, but within, a beautiful cornice, richly sculptured, ran all round, and the coverings of the cieling were also of a tine sculpture ; while on theoutside four fine pilasters supported die frize which crowned the whole circumference. A beautiful peristyle of four columns occupied me facade by which was the entrance to the temple, and the ascent to it was by a flight of fifteen steps. The pediment of this peristyle occupied the whole width of the facade : the columns, including their capitals and bases, were twenty-two feet high, and the entablature eight feet. It does not appear that any inscription has existed on the architrave, or in the tympan. 'The door was sixteen feet high: it was of a square form, and decorated with a rich entablature, supported by brackets. At present, this line and simple ornament has almost entirely disappeared; the four columns of the peristyle have been overthrown; their entablature and pediment no longer exist; the vast flight of steps is partly demolished, leaving only a narrow and difficult ascent. The door and the two Corinthian pillars at the angles of the edifice are yet standing. At the left, on quitting the temple, a column which still sustains a portion of the arcade, ;md against: which have been erected some wretched huts, the parfttion-walla of which are of planks or beams, is the only vestige or indication of the portico that led to it. They have converted this temple into a small oratory, and above it has been ere* ted a miserable square tower, with fronts of an aukward and irregtfhtr sue, ami 104 CASSAS'S TRAVELS terminated with a bad roof of tiles ; while the important necessity of adding bells to a church, determined them to disgrace one of the finest Specimens of antiquity in Europe, and to destroy by this ugly structure the beautiful harmony which resulted from the systematic proportions of the various parts of the edifice. By the decay which has taken place, the foundation and subterraneous parts of the Temple are exposed to view; but these degradations enable us to form an idea of the solidity which the ancients gave to their buildings. The hewn stones, truly enormous in their size, which are employed for these foundations, are placed de champ, a circumstance which is rare to be met with. Such is nearly the state of the still subsisting ruins of the beautiful palace of Diocletian, which, in point of magnificence, surpassed all that can be exhibited by the pomp of the cities of modern Europe, with the exception of our colonnade of the I .ouvre, which rivals every thing that could have been produced by the splendour of Palmyra or Balbcok. It only remains for me to say a word on the principal external gate called Porta Jurca, and on some bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and sarcophagi, found at Spa* Jatro, which some preceding travellers have either not explained or misinterpreted. This gate lias nothing which in any respect entitles it to the name of Porta /lurm : and it is tar from possessing any thing like the beauty of architecture in that which bears the same name at Pola, as has been already mentioned. A circumstance very remarkable is, that the stones of the arch are mortised into each other,—a kind of building which is sometimes discoverable in ancient monuments, and which was employed by the architects as being a more solid method, particularly for arches. Whether this gate be viewed from the interior of the palace, or from without the circumference, it seems to exhibit nothing remarkable, except the thickness of its walls Two niches, not very tastefully executed, accompany the arcade, and were doubtless intended to receive statues; above them may still be seen, as well within as without, some arched windows, which indicate, as has been before observed, that an upper floor or story was built all round the walls, On the country-side the soil has risen, and the gate is no longer m proportion : on the inside, however, this increase of the earth is not so perceptible. A guard-house has been established at this gate : it. is preceded by a small square court, formed of columns which ap]•■ ar to have belonged to some apart" merit inside of the palace, because '.hey are of a middling height. In front of this guard-house is a large mast, exactly similar to those which are to be seen in St. Mark's Place, at Venice, and which is doubtless employed for hoisting the Venetian Standard on particular occasions: it is fixed in a round pedestal. IN ISTRI A AN D DALMAT1A. 105 Venetian Lion is represented rampant on this pedestal, and enclosing in his paws the main part of the mast. I sliall not here quote the inscriptions which Spoil has collected, because they are sufficiently known. There arc two upon the front of the steeple, which are in a good state of preservation: they both relate to the Emperor Tiberius; and are the pledges of public gratitude, for the orders he had given for the repair of certain roads. They prove, in an irrefragable manner, that the materials employed in this steeple or tower of the cathedral were not taken from the ruins of the palace of Spalatro, the construction of which was long posterior to the reign of Tiberius; but that these, among other inscriptions, must have been brought from Salona, since they relate to the roads in the vicinity of that town. But though even flattery might not have introduced into the Roman Empire the custom of celebrating b) pompous inscriptions the acts of the emperors, particularly when of such trivial importance as that alluded to, which related only to one of the most common acts of an ordinary administration, it nevertheless is not astonishing that it should be found in 1)ahnatia. No one can have forgotten the great authority which Tiberius exercised there, that that place was one of the principal theatres of his military exploits, and that he took up his residence there during several years : it is likewise well known how much a vanquish* d people, and more particularly those who submit to the yoke after a valiant resistance, which was the case with the Dalmatians, are puerile in their servility, as is also the minute attl ntion which they pay to render immortal the smallest benefits bestowed upon them by their conqueror, in order to appear favourable in his eyes, h is very seldom that people do not degrade themselves by the means they take to efface the recollection ot an unfortunate revolt, and that degradation docs not obtain the ascendancy over every other method which they may adopt. The various inscriptions mentioned by Spon relate to private families; but there are some others found at Spalatro, which, in nil probability, Spou never saw, as he docs not mention them, though they are rendered worthy of attention by historical circumstances, or by their relation' to the manners of the Romans. M, CassaS noticed with care and accuracy the monuments in which they belonged: and in my revision of his itinerary 1 |;a\-consulted, with respect to these inscriptions, the learned Yisconti, whose opinion I shall give.— I shall first speak of three sepulchral cippi. The first belongs to q veteran: the frize is ornamented with trophies ; underneath, lions' gules, which bear rings between their lips, indicate the door of the sepulchral chamber: this ornament is frequently met with in antique cippi. The bust of the warrior » Ass as.] r 106 CAsSAS's TflAVELS- ¡8 represented in the dress of a citizen, that is, covered with the toga; he holds in his hands a roll or volume, of which the following is the inscription : L. CAESIUS. L. F. CAM. BASSUS DOMO PISAVRI VET. LEG, VII. C. P. F. AN. LIII. STIP. XXXII. II. S. E,T. 1 . I.H.I*. IN. r. P. VI. IN. A. P. X. This interesting inscription should be read as follows; " Lucius Ca?sius, I audi filius Camilla (tr/hu) Bassus Domo Pisauri Vetcranus Legiouis VII. Claudia; V\x fidelis Annorum LIII. Stipendiorum XXXII. heic situs est. Titulum fieri jussit lneris posuit in frontc pedes VI. in agro pedes X." This monument serves to explain a disputed point in history, relative to the Cam. Camilla, or Camilha. This inscription proves that it was not in the number of those tribes formed by the Italians when they rose in insurrection at the tune of the Social War, and which disappeared at the time of the re-establishment of peace : this is, however, what has been hitherto believed of the tribe Camilla. The marble in question announces a period far posterior, both by the title of Claudia, given to the seventh legion, and by tin beard which is perceptible on the chin of the portrait, which indicates the second century of the vulgar aera, that is, of the times which are not anterior to the reign of Adrian. As to the title of Claudia, applied to the letter C, it is confirmed to the seventh legion by imperial medals. The second monument represents the images of four persons, whose mortal remains it Without doubt contained ; but the inscriptions arc so much defaced that they are illegible. 'The third is curious, as it relates to two women : the following is the inscription: PROSTINIA. C. F. PROCVLA. V. F. SIBl. ET FAVENTlNiE DELI CAT7E DEFVNCT7E ANNORUM XXI. IN I9TRIA AND J) A L M A T1 A. 107 This inscription must be read us under : " Prostinia Caii filia Procula vivens fecit sibi, et Faveutiua; deli ■ Catae detune he. Aunorum XXI." At Rome they gave the titles of delicali and delicata to slaves, or freed people, of both sexes, whose beauty or talents Inn I ex-Cited tlie esteem or affection of their masters : they were their favourites ; and the epithet given to them proves that their masters experienced elelight in them. In general their education was more carefully attended to than that of the other slaves, and they were instructed in every accomplishment which could add to the charms of society. We Jind no example of this kind in the days when republican" virtue was at its height: corruption alone introduced the custom of these kind of domestics, and the institution must be sought for in the ages of luxury and the voluptuous effeminacy of Roman manners. M. Cassas, who, throughout the whole of his journey, displayed considerable sagacity in the choice of die monuments which he examined, found at Spalatro, in the great number of cippi, tombs, and sepulchral stones, covered with inscriptions, only the three just mentioned which appeared to him to be worthy of the attention of the learned. He was less eager after bas-reliefs; but the remarkable subjects, as well as the fine state of preservation of those which he particularly noticed, will induce me to mention them in a cursory manner. I have already spoken of those which belonged to the frize of the Temple of Jupiter, and the figures and attributes of which, gave the learned Visconti reason to think that this temple was dedicated to Diana, and not to the King of the Gods : I shall add that this opinion seems to be confirmed by the Table of Peu. lingerj and 1 cannot conceive why the place which it indicates by these words, ** ad Dianam," is applied to a church of St, George, which is situated in the western extremity of Spalatro, towards the [tort, and where nothing proves the existence id' an antique temple, while at four paces from thence we find thatun question, the allegorical figures of which are still discernible, and all bear a direct reference to the worship of that goddess. Is it not more reasonable to suppose, and much more probable to assert, that it is the pretended Temple of Jupiter, to which the Table of Peutinger makes allusion by the words u ad Dianam" rather than the church of St. George; and is not the extreme proxi- v $ t'ASSAs's TRAVELS' mity of one place to the other, an indication of the same circumstance ? I shall not dwell any longn upon these bas-reliefs of the temple of Spalatro, because all argument must be reduced to this explanation, that they could not have belonged to a temple of Jltpiter, and that the ancients were not accustomed to anachronisms of this nature-. Tint I shall simply call the attention of the reader for a moment to some other bas-reliefs which were discovered by M. Castas. Of these there were three, tin1 largest of which is susceptible of a double interpretation, under the idea that it belonged to a SSJCOphagUS, or that it formed part of the decoration of a monument of another kind. If we were to stop at the first idea, that is, if we were to agree that it formed part of a sarcophagus, an opinion towards which the learned Viseonti appears to incline, then it may be said that this bas-relief was intended to commemorate the exploits of some governor of a. frontier province of the Roman Empire. In this case he would be. represented in his car, accompanied by armed cavaliers, and repelling an incursion of the Barbarians; by Roman citizens in their togas, by their children, by young girls playing on a kind of drum or tambourine, and by young men, also playing on a kind of hunting-horn, who would appear to be issuing from the town, before the conqueror. The various circumstances combined in the bas-relief can only relate to some military expedition. After the epoch of the Antontnes, the incursions of the Barbarians became so frequent, and the unfortunate events which followed them multiplied to such a degree, that the sculptors employed themselves in preparing bas-relii Is of this kind before hand, in order to apply them to tombs, or to have them in perfect readiness for the death of the Roman governors of provinces. They were always sure to dispose of them, because, in the state to which things had arrived, it rarely happened that public gratitude had not some homage of this kind to pav to the memory of its governors; or, even in the contrary case, servility was so general, that flattery always found pretexts for consecrating monuments to the memory of men in power, though they were little deserving of this honour. Rut, on supposing that the bas-reliefs in question did not form part of a sarcophagus, and that, from being discovered at Spalatro. if may have s< rved for the decoration of the palace of Diocletian, then the principal personage must be the emperor himself, received in triumph in some town of the empire, after a fortunate expedition against the Barbarians, whom, in the course of his reign, he had often an opportunity of lighting and conquering. The oriental dress worn by the hero, far from operating against this explanation, will increase its probability, since, as I have IN ISTR1A AND DAI.MATIA. (Op already remarked, and as all Ids biographers agree in asserting, Diocletian had abandoned the Roman costume, and adopted thatof the eastern nmnarchs: tin n the little couching figures that are perceived at the bottom of the bas-relief, between the legs of the horses belonging to die ear of the hero, and those of the warriors who follow him, might be easily explained : they might represent the nymphs or genii of the rivers, forests, and mountains,' which Mere the theatre of those exploits, the memory of which tin; artist wished to transmit to posterity; and they may be considered as applicable, either to the sanguinary expedition of Diocletian against Achilles in Egypt, or to his victories in Ifhatia and P;)n-noiiia over the Germans, the Sarmatians, the Juthongtans, the CaspianS, and the Goths. With respect to the other two bas-reliefs, the sculptor has, in the first, made choice of a subject strictly poetical, and which can have no reference to the history of Diocletian : it represents a combat of the Centaurs against the Lapithiaus, a warlike people OfThessaly, and who were celebrated in the tables and poems of antiquitv. which had for their subject the adventures of Theseus. "According to all -appearance this bas-relief, which is pure!] decorative in its nature, must have belonged to some hall in the palace, each of which, as has been already shewn, had a particular destination. .... The second appears to represent some divinities, and, perhaps, may bear some reference to the reign of Diocletian ; but either from the figures being so much decayed as not to render their distinctive characters perceptible, or from their being at tor, great a distance from the observer, M. Cassaa could not pi,,, perly understand them; but he thinks that their denominations cannot be completely discovered, either from their attitudes or their attributes. 7\1! that he suggested is, that the two principal figures, who are crowned by \ ictory, are Hercules and .Jupiter, the tutelary divinities of Diocletian, who took the surname of Jovius, and of Maximian, his friend and colleague, who called himself Hercules. Hence it might be supposed, that the two other male figures, who appear in the bas-relief, are those of the two Ctesars, who were partners in the empire, while those of the two women were meant as allegories of the two parts of the world, the East and the West, over which they extended their power. There are also, several others, which are equally worthy of attention. Some fragments, consisting of figures, undoubtedly belonged to the same monument, and there is no doubt that this monument was a sarcophagus. The personage whose remains it contained, was undoubtedly a sportsman. The custom of representing upon the bas-relief the figure entombed, is very an- 110 CASSAs'.S TRAVELS cientj and was introduced in Grecian sculpture many ages before the time of Diocletian. Lysippus represented the friends of Alexander as sportsmen, and Philostratus, in his Life of the celebrated sophist Herod Atticus, informs us, that this extraordinary man had caused to he executed in sculpture, in the hunting costume, almost all his friends. The custom of representing as hunters the most distinguished persons amongst the Romans, was continued till the decline of the arts ; and we find an instance not only in the hunter of the capitol at Rome, which is known to he the portrait of a Roman of the third century of the vulgar sera, but there is another equally interesting, namely, the celebrated engraved saphire, in the cabinet of Iviuuccim, at Flor ence, which represents the Emperor Constance, son of the Emperor Constautine the Great, in the act of irritating an enormous wild boar in the forest of Cappadqcia ; and the real intention of the engraver of this saphire cannot be doubted. The Greek inscription legible upon this valuable jewel, fully proves its authenticity. The personage for whom the abovemcnttoned sarcophagus was executed, was certainly a Roman; but if this were to be doubled, some figures covered with the toga, which are to the left of the bas-relief, and in company with the hero, would tend to prove it: in this piece, which according to every appearance w as placed in the principal front of the sarcophagus, the Bcuiptor lias represented the chace of the wild boar; the artist has given to his figures the heroic costume. The three other bas-reliefs, which ornamented the remaining three; faces of die sarcophagus, exhibit the preparations for the chace. Another piece of marble is a fragment of bas-relief which probably decorated the palace appropriated to festivities or pleasure : it relates to the vintage. The Nymphs and Genii of Bacchus are loading an ass with grapes, which they are in the act of plucking from an arbour. There is another bas-relief which is scarce and interesting.— , In this three Water Nymphs are represented, as m almost all the monuments dedicated to Naiads ; each of these divinities carries the emblem of a reed, a plant which delights in the environs of rivers and springs: by their side is the1 god Pan, in his ordinary figure, with his shepherd's crook in his hand, and holding a goat by the horns, while a hemnd is couchant at 'is feet. It is not a matter of surprise to find Pan in this bas-relief. This rustic deity is often represented in monuments in company with the goddesses of woods and fountains; and 1 am indebted fortius remark to the learned Visconti, whose intelligence has been of much service to me in the examination of these fragments. In the MoniunciLla P^loponnctilitiQ is a bas-relief which bears mud* IN ISTRIA AND DAL MATT A. in resemblance to tliat we are describing, but the former is embellished with a Greek inscription, uhile the latter bears a Latin one, of which there only remain the letters CA.L. POS. This inscription is only a fragment; the name of the woman who had consecrated this sculpture, was probably engraved on the upper frixe, which is destroyed : there remains only the last syllable C A, which had projected at the bottom of the bas-relief. These examples are very frequent. As to the following letters L. IJ O S. they signify the formule, IHnra poSlftY, which was used in all monuments or other objects consecrated to the gods. M. Cassas after having taken sufficient time to examine, admire, and make drawings of tin; magnificent remains of the palace of Diocletian, would not take his final leave of the country without visiting the remains of Salona, win re that emperor was born, the fortress of Clissa, formerly Jndetrtum, so famous for its celebrated siege under Augustus, at the time of the revolt in Dalmatia, and lastlv, the admirable fall of the river Cortina, formerly called Titiirus, which is one of the finest spectacles that Nature! in her romantic mildness, presents amongst the numerous phenomena of these mountainous regions. There are still to be seen between Spalatro and Salona several arches of the aqueduct, which supplied the first-mentioned town with water; it may he presumed that this was another of the magnificent works of Diocletian, since there were no habitations of consequence at Spalatro, before his palace was built there. It is known that after his abdication at Nicomedia, he immediately set off for Salona, the place of his nativity, and that he resided in that town during the time his palace was building. Doubtless nothing that could render his resilience agreeable was omitted ; the want, of water must have been one of the first objects on which the architects employed themselves; and every thing indicates that the construction of the aqueduct must have preceded that of the palace. There remain only some fragments of the aqueduct, but these are very considerable, and m several parts still present long rows of arches in a good state of preservation, and from the irregularity of the soil, many of them have been el vated upon piers. The wnoley bjowever, is entirely barren and exposed, and not only have the upper canals disappeared, but also tin- masonry which supported them, so that the tops of the arches arc entirely bare, and the stones of which they are formed, exposed to the action of the air, which cannot fail to hasten the destruction of this beautiful building. The road from Spalatro to Salona crosses it, and in this part it forms a very impressive addition to the landscape. On the left it seems as if it issued out of a very high mountain, while on the right it passes through a thick wood in the valley, where its arches, pro- jeering far above the summits of the trees, form a commanding and majestic appearance. Salona, or it should rather be said, the place winch was once occupied by this celebrated town, is only four miles from Spalatro. If we may believe an inscription found by (outer, it was called Colonic martin, Julia Salona. Spdn has justly observed, that it was built in a fine plain, or circle, formed by the high mountains, the passages to which are defended four miles farther by the fortress of Clissa, and which afterwards extend to Bosnia. Salona was a maritime town, situated on the lake or canal of the same name, and the mouth or bay of which, so difficult to be found by mariners, is. as I have before observed, at one of the angles of the gulph of Spalatro, or to speak still more exactly, at one of the angles of a kind of inlet, formed by the canal of Bra/a, between the isle of BUS, the Continent, and the coast of Spalatro, and which cannot be perceived while landing at the latter town. Those who wish to enter it, must therefore seek for it some leagues to the west of Spalatro ; but these directions are at present of no great importance, as the entire ruin of Salona has for ever stopped the trade that once enlivened its flourishing banks. 1 cannot help remarking, that it seems to me, that of all beings, man alone retains after his death, something of that majesty which accompanied him during his existence. When an animal expires, death reigns over it in triumph ; but on the forehead of man, dignity resists the injury of his decease j with the former, death is absolute; with the latter, it is only conditional. Mo, the level of equality is not between animals which are no more, and man who has only ceased to exist. If we cast our eyes on a field of battle, man, though his life is extinguished, still threatens; his blood is chilled, but his courage respires from his motionless limbs. Disgust makes us cpiit the remains of animals; but if we meet with those of man, his dignity seems to fne.aud command us to stop, while we are detained by veneration near his coffin. That affection for tombs so rooted, and general amongst all the people of the earth, is, perhaps,indebted for its origin much less to the memory of our relatives, to our regard for our own feelings, or lolhe noble sentiment of gratitude inwards our patrons, than it is to a respect for certain iueifaccahIn traces which follow man to his sepulchre. What a spectacle is afforded by the place which contained the splendid Salona\ It once gave masters to the universe, and now it scarcely affords grass for the support of reptiles ! a superficies of the extent of two miles, covered with broken pillars, capitals, and Sepulchral Stones, scattered at random; such is the depl enable state of one of the finest towns of antiquity. A small riVcf IN 1stria AND 1j A LM ATI A. 113 rum through these ruins, and empties itself in the gulpli; it still ■abounds with those excellent trout which thi Romans were so fond of, and procured at a great expense. When calumny makes choice of a victim, it varies its language according to the understanding <>f those whom it addresses : hence for example, while it borrowed that of humanity to gain belief for Kit persecutions of which it accused Diocletian, that of modesty When imputing to him disgusting debaucheries, and a thousand other similar sub* terfuges to dishonour his memory in future ages, it also adopted the tone of sobriety when reproaching him for fixing his retreat at Spalatro, with the addition, that he abdicated the empire in order to live more at his ease, and gratify his appetite with the trout of Sahara! If we compare the present state of the ruins of Salona, or even that in which thev were when observed bv Spon, about a hundred and thirty years ago, with the account given of them by the Senator John Baptist Giustiniani, in a valuable manuscript, With which FOrtis was acquainted, and which was written in 15.30, it is indisputable that their destruction has advanced with ten times greater rapidity in two centuries, than it had in the space of fourteen preceding. The following is the account of them, to which 1 have alluded :— "The size and magnificence of the ancient town of Salona, mav be discovered by the rums which at present remain; namely, bv the vaults and arches of a wonderful theatre, by large blocks of the finest marble, which lie scattered over the fields; by a fine pillar composed of three pieces of marble, and which is still erect, in a spot extending towards the -ea, where it is asserted the arsenal was formerly situated; by several admirable arches, over which passes an aqueduct that conducts the water from Salona to Spalatro; there may also be seen the ruins of great palaces, and ancient epitaphs upon many handsome stones; but the soil which gradually increases and rises, has buried the most ancient and valuable relics." If this account be true, which will scarcely admit of -A doubt, since it was written by an ocular witness, and a man whose birth and employment rendered that country familiar to him, it maybe presumed that the encroachment of the soil of which he complains, has enormously encreased since the period when be visited these regions: for not only have the vaults and arches of this theatre disappeared, but at the present day, it is impossible to ascertain the spot which it occupied. Some of the large blocks of marble, alluded to in the above-mentioned account, are still to be seen above: ground; but the line column which pointed out the arsenal, is no longer visible. I have ( ASSAS.J Q "114 C ASSAs's TK A \ EIjS spoken of the ruins of the aqueduct; bat its nrehc* are now totally bare; the free-stone blocks, of which its piers consisted, are completely exposed to the air, and there does not remain a single vestige of those line columns of maible, with which they were formerly embellished. There are no walls now standing, which can impart the idea of their having belonged to great palaces, temples, or porticos, and the numerous materials with Which the sod is encumbered, are dispersed promiscuously, and whoever attempts to assign to them their original rank, undertakes a task which he can never accomplish. With respect to the inscriptions which were seen there by Giustiniani, the learned Fortis asserts, that an industrious inhabitant of Spalatro had made an extremely curious collection of them ; but this learned individual, being either jealous of his labour, or subject to some inconsistency from which even men of talents are not always free, constantly refuses to communicate his discoveries, and his treasure will consequently be lost to the scientific world, till some fortuitous event shall bring them from their obscurity. Fortis, also, has not published those which he transcribed on the spot, but announces that he preserves them for one of his friends. Count Jerome Silvestri de llovigo. It can, therefore, only be by excavating that we can succeed in the recovery of some of the beautiful remains of this town ; and by this means, the arts would doubtless receive the addition of some tine pieces of architecture, valuable statues, vases, and bas-reliefs, and perhaps, likewise, some paintings ; a desirable circumstance which would tend to decide ,tbe doubts we entertain with respect to the stale of perfection to which the ancients had arrived in this art. There might, likewise, be. discovered the manuscripts of some works, which arc unknown to us, or with which we are acquaint* d only by some fragments. But to effect this object, it would be necessary that the governments should attempt to overcome the repugnance of the natives to permit these researches, and to oppose all the obstacles which ignorance, prejudice, and particularly cupidity, may throw in the way of general discovery. By means of a few thousand francs or florins, which the French and Austrian governments might disburse amongst the peasantry, they might even be induced to assist in this deterraf on, and the advantage that might be derived from it for the advancement of archadogical knowledge would be incalculable. And it should be considered, that there would not here be the opposition of private interest, as at SpaUitro, Pola, and Zara; because, to make excavations at those places, it would be necessary to sacrifice; or injure the habitations of individuals ; but in the vast extent of the spot in question, there are only a few miserable huts, and a small church, while the whole IN ISTRIA AND DALMATIA. 115 collection can scarcely be called a village ; and as long as three caves were respected, which the inhabitants consider as the tombs of St. Dominick, St. Athauasius and St. Rainier; whom they assert to have been bishops of Salona, and which places thev never fail to shew to travellers as worthy of veneration, they would voluntarily permit researches to he made, particularly if thev were to receive any trivial recompense. On expresssing my wish to see these researches carried into effect, my readers will perhaps be surprised that 1 have intimated, that the French and Austrian governments ought to bear the expense: I might with equal propriety mention (•very other government in Europe; for I do not acknowledge the right which this or that people arrogate to themselves of possessing the remains of antiquity. No, the monuments which it has left us belong to no one nation any more than another. A people whose time is come to submit to the law, which decrees that all things shall have an end, can leave no privileged heirs to the conceptions of their genius. They leave the soil which they occupied either to the conquerors who deprived them of it, or to nature who reclaims it; and it is repeopled or remains desert, according as human interests ordain. But whatever may be the fate reserved for the place which a nation lias occupied upon the globe, the monuments which they have erected are the inheritances of no one, because they belong to all mankind. Works of genius are left for general instruction, as virtues are left by reason to be a guide to man; and a nation has no more right to say, 1 inherit the monuments of the one which has preceded me, than it has to say, 1 alone will enjoy all the advantage of the laws which it adopted. People whom victory or chance places around the monuments of exterminated nations, have only the light to preserve them : when they watch over them, they do their duty; when the) secret'.' them, they act like robbers, and become criminal. It is bom a love for the arts, that we experience that melancholy sentiment which arises from the appearance of monuments dilapidated by the axe of barbarians: if we go a step further, we shall discover that this sentiment owes its origin to the wound made in what is a general property. The Russian, like the Japanese, if he be will Informed, will feel that the monuments of Rome and Pcr-sepolis belong to him. Though time Or distance ,Uav s,,j);it;it,, individuals, human knowledge is indivisible; and what does it signify that such or such stones were collected under the reign of Pharamond or Marcellus? This is effected mere!) by the met chanism of strength, but knowledge' alone directed die collection to be made; and in this respect, the man of the present age may be with as much propriety said to have built the monuments as he who existed three thousand years ago. 13ut there will arrive a lame* when these greal monuments will behold in their turn destruction approach towards them, the mighty hand of centuries v\ ili ju v upon tinm, their joints, if I may use the expression, will give way, nd the earth, our common parent, will receive and envelope them in its bowels. Fo.'is, with his usual sagacity, observes, that the text ed'Ca-sar must have been conupted, as he describes Salona to be situated on a rising hill J '* Sulo/ta in cdilu colic" It is not to be supposed, says he, that he was unacquainted with the real scile of such a well known place; 1 am of the same opinion. Ca-sar must have alluded to Aiidcrium, which was in the vicinity of Salona, and his ignorant or careless copyists confounded one phu e with the other. !>ut errois with respect to the geographical posil .on of ancient iowns are ''ten met With, particularly of such as stood in this part of Europe • It was the riyader, which runs near Salona, and lakes its source m the mountain of Clissa, whose waters abounded with those delicious trout which we're held in such esteem by the llomans. Fortis mentions that he read a Work, the' author of which asserts that the motive of Diocletian for retiring to this town, was to enjoy the luxury of this exquisite fish. 1 do not know who is the author to wbom Fortis alludes, but 1 pity the men who attempt to write; history,and are so little acquainted With the character of the princes of whom they presume to Speakj I, however, pity their reach rs still more. Tin. road which leads from Salona to Clissa bore the name of I ia didtiniit; an inscription which Spoil discovered, makes mention of this circumstance. I have already remarked that the distance from Spalatro to Salona, is equal with that from Salons to Clissa. M. Cassas did not extend his journev to this fortress, on the extreme boundary of the Venetian States, which Pliny calls Mtouh triimi, Ptolemy Ane-ks is so vertical, that they appear to have been cut by the hand of man, and this steepness is every where alike, however various may he the lines which they follow in their superposition; but what adds still morete) their singularity, is their summits, Which are cut with a sort of symmetry, and appear like so many square towers, that command and seem to defend those gigantic walls, or they might rather be taken for battlements. IN ISTRIA AND PALM ATI A 123 At the base, that is to say, in the almost unfathomable abyss formed by these natural ramparts, the Ruecca winds and runs with a sort of majestic slowness, seeming to disdain the opposition of the blocks with which its bed is every where interspersed, till it suddenly arrives at an immense cavity, the frightful and sombre peristyle of a subterraneous gallery, of which tire terrified imagination can n* ither guess nor measure the depth. In fact this gulph may be described as an enormous and inconceivable precipice, in which the waters of the Ruecca fall, with a tremendous noise, and are lost from the observance of man; but whither they go, to what depth they fall, or how long they have disappeared in this receptacle, be has never been ablt; to ascertain, during thousands of generations, and many ages will doubtless yet pass away before this mystery will be discovered. No one can conceive the dreadful and incessant roaring of the waves, in the deep cavities of this impenetrable abyss, nor the terror which seizes on the spectator, at his first view of the gulph. It is here, by his Unexpected humiliation, that man is compelled to acknowledge the limited extend of his mind; aud though every where else he may be proud to think and act like a Cod, he here, perhaps for the first time, perceives his information to be only that of a subordinate creature. But this is not all, for die traveller, if he proceed no further, will have but an incomplete idea of the singular destiny of the Ruecca; he must, if possible, pass this mountain, or rather this gigantic Wall, the fractured sides of which absorb the river. The other side affords a spectacle not less extraordinary, and perhaps still more wild; the same ruggedness and nudity in the rocks, but more disorder aud coufusiou: the masses, which are equally vertical here, obstruct, intersect and pass each other in various directions, while the summits frequently come in contact, and at other times appear at a considerable distance from each other; in short, the whole presents the most hapeless and terrific chaos. It is in the midst of these numerous blocks, that the Ruecca, after meandering through the bowels of the mountain, issues violently from a deep aud narrow fissure, and disgorges itself.into a large bason, GOO feet below the level of San-Canciano, which is SO shaded by the elevation of the rocks, that it is c(instantly iuacessible to the rays of the sun. It is even pretended, that all attempts to ascertain its depth by sounding have proved ineffectual. In fact, this may be considered as the tomb of a river, so remarkable for its adventures: the threads of water which trickle from the overflowing or the bason, after having run for some time across the rocks that lie dispersed below this kind of crater, diminish till they at length hecome imperceptible, and thus the Ruecca disappears for ever. At this spot the object of M. Cassas's journey was at an end; and when the fatigues inseparable from a tour of live or six hundred leagues are considered, it will be admitted, that he deserves the gratitude of every admirer of the arts. Few men, perhaps, were more capable of executing such a task, and none could have delineated with more grace or exactness the singular and interesting objects afforded by nature or art, in a country so worthy of attention, though now so little known. It would perhaps have been highly gratifying if M. Cassas had united to his excellent skill as an artist, the talent of political and general observation; the reader would then, to the satisfaction of learning the present state of the vestiges of antiquity in those regions, have added the pleasure of ascertaining more intimately the manners, customs, laws and origin of the various tribes with which they are at present inhabited. But this was not the object of the journey of M. Cassas; it only remained for him to fulfil the duty imposed on him, aud of this he has satisfactorily acquitted himself, At the end of August he left Trieste on his return to Venice, and thence to Home, where he resided some time in order tu arrange the materials, which were the result of his journey. TilE END. Description of the Plates given with this Translation, and Directions to the Binder for placing them. Page. 1. General Map of Istria and Dalmatia, to face the title. f> B« View of the Amphitheatre at Pola 25 III. General views of the town of Trieste, thegulph of Capo d'lstria, and of the coasts of Istria, as far as Pirano, which is perceptible in the back ground, at the extremity of the Promontory - .....3,3 s IV. View of the triumphal Arch, called Porta Aurea, at Pola 31 V. General view of the Palace of Diocletian, from the sea [YZ , VI. Outside of the Temple of Jupiter in the Palace of Diocletian, at Spalatro - - - -- -- -- 10Q VU. External view of the Tpemple of &sculapiu* at ditto \03 NfiRGDNft IN UNIVERZITETNA KNJIŽNICA GS I 710 852 200913305 COBISS a 200913305