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TRAVELS
THROUGH
NORTH AND SOUTH CARO, GEORGIA, EAST AND WEST FLOl^BBSlOT^
THE CHEROKEE COUNTRY,
THE EXTENSIVE TERRITORIES OF THE MUSCOGULGES OR CREEK CONFEDERACY,
AND THE COUNTRY OF THE CHACTAWS.
CONTAINING
AN   ACCOUNT  OF THE   SOIL   AND  NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF  THOSE REGIONSJ
TOGETHER WITH OBSERVATIONS ON  THE  MANNERS OF THE INDIANS,
EMBELLISHED WITH COPPER-PLATES.
By WILLIAM BART RAM.
PHILADELPHIA :   PRINTfcD BY JAMES AND JOHNSON. 1791. LONDON:
REPIilNTED FOR J. JOHNSON, IN ST. PAVL'i CHURCH-YARD.
C   O   N   T   E   Nr   T S,
PAR T I. I N T R O L> V C T I O N.
CHAP. 1.
Tur Author embark:- at Philadelphia—arrives at Charkfbn Page \
CHAP. II.
Kmbarks again for Georgia and arrives at Savanna—proceeds Southward and arrives at Sunbury— obfervations on the town, harbour, and ifland of St. Catharine, its foil and productions—account of the eftablifhmcnt of St. John's diftrift and Midway mceting-houfc—defcription of a beautiful fifti—proceeds for the river Alatamaha, defcription of a tremendous thunder ftorm 4
CHAP. III.
Ci olT<- the river at Fort Barringtnn and arrives at St. Ille—paffes the frontirr fettkmcnts and meets an hoftile Indian—croffes the river St. Mary and arrives at the tiading-houfc, account of the country thereabout, its natural productions, fit the lake Ouaipiaphenogaw, faid to be the l'ourcc of the river St. Mary — returns to rive Alatamaha and thence to Savanna 16
CHAP. IV.
Sets off from Savanna to Avigulla, one hundred fixty-five miles North-Weft from the fta coaft—defcribes the face of the country, the river Savanna, the cataracts and village of Augufta—congrefs with the Indians at St. Augufta—the village of Wrightfborough on Little River—monuments of an ancient Indian town on Little River—Buffaloe Lick—begins the furvey of the New Purchak-— high proof of Indian fagacity—returns to Savanna
CHAP. V.
The Author leaves Broughton lfl.md and afcends the Alatamah.i—-night fcene —a tempetl—defcriptioQ of the river—ruins of an ancient fortification—Indim monuments at the Oakmulgc fields—Creeks, account of their fcttkmcnt in Georgia 47
PART II.
CHAP. I.
Sets off from Savanna to Eaft Florida, proceeding by land to the Alatamaha— dekends that river to Frcderica on the ifland of St. Simon's—defcribes the iiland and the city 55
CHAP. II.
Leaves Fredcrka for the lower trading-houfe on St. Joan's—park: thr*vi^h anJ defcribes the found, &c. 61 CHAP. UL
Leaves Amelia ifland and airives at the Cowford, on the river St. Juau's—proceeds up the river alone in a (mall canoe; fuffcrs by a gale of wind in crown the river; ishofpitably entertained at a gentleman's houfe, where he refits and fail again—defcribes fott Picolata—various productions, viz. Magnolia grandiflora, Tillandfia ufneadfeites, floating fields of the Piftia ftratiots,, the rivci and country, touches at Charlottcville—arrive at the lower tradin^-houfe 6$
CHAP. IV.
Proceeds farther up the river—paffes, by Mount Hop-, and Come to at M Royal—defcribes the mount, Indian highway, fcc„ '• awti&il land* ipe of the vuuntry and profpeft of the lake—enter, Lik<; G'o; k< — deiciiptkn 01 •.»•• !
forced by ftrcfs of weather to put into die beautiful iflc Fdclann, defcription of the ifland, ancient Indian rown, mount and highway—crolfcs over the lake and arrives at the upper trading-houfc 95 C H A P. V.
Provides for continuing his voyage higher up the river*, engages an Indian to afhit in navigating his baik, ^nd fota fail, the Indian becomes tired and icijueflsi to be fet on Ihore—encamps at a delightful Orange grove—continues again alone up the river: defcription of the Palma Elata: enters the Little Cake and comes to camp at an Orange grove—tight of alligators; a battle with them; great em-barrafhncnts with them 5 kills one: vafi aU'cmbla-e of fifh: defcription of live alligator and its neil, &c.—defcribes the Carica papaya—a very curious bird
_;n danger of being taken napping by a huge crocodile—the banks of the riser
admirably ornamented with feftoons and tapeftry, the work of nature—l'epulchrcs of the ancients—a hurricane—vifits a plantation on the banks of the Long Lake; defcription of the lake, a large fulphureous fountain—account of the founding and Bvefcnt Hate of New Smyrna, on the MufquftOt river—returns down the river—
Fait Lake_curious birds and a beautiful fifh—leaves Cedar Point, touches at the
ifle of Palms; robbed by a wolf—arrives at Six Mile Springs —an account of that admirable fountain—delcribcs the Gordonia, Zamia, Cactus opuntia, Erythrina, Cacalia  &c—touches at Rocky Point—arrives again at the lower trading-houfc
112
CHAP. VI.
Proceeds on a journey to Cufcnwilla—defcribes the country and waters—An-riona incana, Annona pygmea, Kalmia ciliata, Lmpetrum album, Andromeda ferruginea, Rhododendron fpurium, Pica glandaria non criftata, Lanius, Lacerta, Snakes, Chionanthus, Andromeda formofilfuna, Cyrilla—encamps at the Half-way Pond —defcribes the pond and meadows, a beautiful landfcapc—pilgrimage of hlh—defcribes various kinds of fifh -great foft Ihellcd tortoife and great land tortoUe—moral reflections and meditations-leaves Half-way Pond and proceeds ;_fituation, qualitTj and furniture of the earth—arrives at Cufcowilla—reception from t'.ie Indian chief: his character—Siminoles predilection for Spanifh cuftorna and civilization—India flavcs, their condition -departs for the Alachua favanna- defcription of the favanna—Siroinoles on horfeback—returns to GuicOr
v,ml_a council and Indian feift—defcription of the town and Cufcowilla lake—
returns to the favanna—glafs fnake—makes the tour of the favanna—veftigei of the ancient Alachua—Orange groves, turkeys, deer, wolves, lavanna crnne—arrives at the great bafoti or fink—defcription of the fink—account of the alligators, incredible number of hfh; their lubterranean migrations—returns—old SfttBffh highway_Indian village—arrives again at the trading-houfc on St. Juan'*— character and comparifon of the nations of the Upper Creeks, and Lower or Siminoles
CHAP. VII.
Sets out again on a journey to Talahafochtc—defcription of the Siminolc horfe —encamps at an enchanting grotto on the banks of a beautiful lake—rocky ridges and defert wilds—engagement between a hawk and the coach-whip fnake —defcription of the fnake—account of the country, grand Pine foreit—encamps *m the borders of an extcnfive favanna—defcription of the favanna crane—comes upon the verge of cxtenfivc favannas, lying on a beautiful lake—the expanfivc fields of Cap 1., ,, ; d with delightful groves—fquadrons of Siminolc horfes— a troop under the conduct and care of an Indian dog—the fields of Capola a delightful region—ferruginous rocks, rich iron ore—arrives at Talahalochte on the river Little St. Juan's—defcribes the town and river—Indian canoes —their voyages and traffic—Indian voyage to Cuba—a filhing party and naval race—an cx-nirfion to the Manatee fpring—defcription of that incomparable nymphaeum—an account of the Manatee — croffes the river to explore the country—Spanifb remains—vaft Cane wildernciTes—ancient Spanilh plantations—Apalachcan old fields—returns to town—White Kiru's arrival—a council and feaft—character
of
CONTENTS. v
of the king—leaves the town on rcfearches, and encamps in the fo.cft-— account of an extraurdiiiary eruption of waters—joins his companion; at camp—entertainment by the White King in Talahafoehtc — Contce, its preparation and ufe — returns to camp—great defert plains—entertainment with a party of young Siminolc warriors—various natural wells and finks; ConjefibMW concerning them— account of the Long Pond, and delightful profpecb adjacent—returns for the trad-jng-houfe on St. |u;i:i's—cmbarraffmcnts occasioned by the wild horfes—encamps at Bird Ifland pond—vafi number of wild fowl tending their nells—engagement with an alligator who furprifed the camp by night.—obfer vat ions on the great A-lachua favanna and its environs—arrival at the trading-houfc 213
chap. via.
The Author makes an excurfion again up St. Juan's to Lake George—revifits Six Mile Springs and IHicium groves, makes collections, and rccroffeB the lake to the t'.aftcm coatl—that ihore more bold and rocky than the oppofite—coalu round that ihore, touching at old def rtcd plantations—Perennial Cotton—Indigo —unpardonable devaluation and neglect of the white fettlcrs, with relpcd to the native Orange groves — returns to the tradmg-houfe a 59
CHAP. IX.
Indian warriors, their frolic—curious conference with the Long Warrior—ludicrous Indian farce relative to a rattle fnake—war farce »53
CHAP. X.
Farther account of the rattle fnake—account and defcription ef other fnakes and animals—catalogue of birds of North America; obfervations concerning their migration, or annual pafiages from North to South, and back again *6a
CHAP. XL
Vifits an Indian village on the river—water melon fcaft—defcription of the bancrueting-houfe—makes an excurfion acrofs the river; great dangers in croffing; lands an the oppofite fhore— dilcovcrs a bee tree, which yielded a gri-at quantity nt honey -returns to the Ihore—embarks forFrcdcrica in Georgia; vifits ihe plantations down the river; enters the found and paffes through; arrives at Frcderica —embarks again- touches at Sunbury—arrives at Charlciton, South Carolina-meditates a journey to the Cherokee country and Creek Nation, in Weft Florida 301
PART III.
CHAP. I.
The Author fcf out for the Cherokee territories—paffes through a fine culti-•vated country—croffes Savanna river and enters the ftate of Georgia—Dirca pa-lurtris—cowpens—civil entertainment at a plantation—pui lues the road to Augufta, and rceroffes the river at Silver Bluff—account of Mr. Golphin's villa and trading (lores, Silver Bluff, tort Mooie, Augufta, Savanna river, mountains of large iofhl oyfter-fhells 306 _ CHAP. H.
Procter for fort James, Dartmouth—curious fpecics of Azah a—croffes Broad llivcr—cflablifhinent of Dartmouth—Indian mount, fcC.—CTOflcs Savann.i river—violent guft of rain—curious fpecics of TEfculus pavia-town of Sinka — fort Prince George, Keowe-dcfcribes the country 3lS
ft        . CHAP. HI-
Ocorc vale—monuments of the ancient town—croffes the mountains—their fitoation, views, and produdtions—refk on the top of Mount Magnolia defcription of a new and beautiful fpecics of Magnolia—cafcades of 1 ailing Creek—thunder itorm—head of Yanafce—vale of Cowe—Indian graves—towns of Echoc, Nucatfee, and Whatoga—nobly entertained by the prince of Whatoga—arriv n at the town of Cowe— makes an excurfion with a Voting trader on the hills of Cowe—inroinpaiable profpe&s—horfe-flamp—difcovers a company of Cherokee nymr.ii, — a Frolic with them—returns, to town 331
C II A P-
vi CONTENT S.
CHAT. IV.
Sets off fiom Whatoga to the Ovorhill towns—Jorc village—Roaring Creek— the Author and his guide part—furprifed V>y an Indian—faint- and pait trienJIy — mountainous vegetable productions— arrival on the top of Jore mountain—fuh-Hme profpeots—Atta-kul-kuUa, grand Cherokee chief— giacious reception -returns to Cove -great cuuncii-houfe—curious Indian dance—returns and (lops at Sirtica—arrives again ac tort James, Dartmouth—1 Lit ot Cherokee towns and tUfiun 357 CHAP. V.
Sets off from Dartmouth to the Upper Creeks and Chaftaws country—Flat R.ock —a curious plan:— Rocky Comfort—Ocone old Town—migration of the Ocones —cr<»ffc> the river— f'»rds the Oakmulye at the Oakmulge fields -Ston< y Creek—i Great and Little Tahofachte—new fpecies of Hydrangia—croffel Flint River—di-fcribes the country—perfecuted by extraordinary heats and incredible numbers of biting flies_Brppobofea and Afilus—extraordinary thundc; guff—croflis Chata Uche
river_defcribes the town—very large and populous—proceeds and arrives at the A-
palachucta town—vifits the old town—extraordinary remains and monuments of the ancients—general face of the country and vegetable productions—new fpeciei efJEfculus 373 CHAP. VI.
Proceeds, and after three days journey arrives at Tallafe, on the Tallapoofe river —Coloome, a handfomc town—great plains—further account of the country— j)og woods—croffes the river Schambc—comes to Tacnfa on the Eaft banks of the Mobile, thirty miles above the city—French inhabitants— patles down the river, arrives at the city of Mobile—Ihort account of the city and fort Conde— returns to Tacnfa, and proceeds up the river as far as the entrance of the Chicafaw branch—floating forefts of the Nympha-a Nclumho—vifits the adjacent lands-returns to Mobile—goes to the river Perdido—continues on to Pcnfacola—cordially received by governor Chefter—fomc account of the town—difcovcrs a new and beautiful fpecics of Sarracenia—returns to Mobile 304 CHAP. VII.
Leaves Mobile for Manchac on the Miffiffippi—proceeds by water to Pearl Ifland —kindly entertained by Mr. Rumfey— defcribes the ifland—large crimfon Plum
i_a delicate fpecics of Mitnofa—panes lake Pontchartvain—touches at the river
Tacnfapaoa_paffes over Lake Maurcpas —proceeds up to Iberville-croffes by land
to Manchac_goes up the Miffiftippi—fcttlcments of New-Richmond—White
Plains_curious mufcle fhells in the river—croffes over to Point Coupe—Spanifh
village and fortrefj—• high cliffs oppofite Point Coupe—returns to the Amite, thence down through the lanks and founds back again to Mobile 41 d
C H A P. VIII.
Leaves Mobile on his return—proceeds with a company of trader, for Creek
nation_his horfe tires—is in great dilhcfs—meets a company of traders, of whom
he purchafes a frelh horfe—Illicium groves—meets a company of emigrants from Georgia—great embarraffmcnt at a large creek fwollcn with late heat V rains— arrives at the banks of the Alabama—croffes it and arrives at Murrhffc—Indiaa
marriagt_fcrious reflections—perilous fituation of the trader of Mucclaffc — let
off for Ottaffe—defcribes the country contiguous to the Tallapoofe river—plantations and towns_Coolome—Tuckabatche—croffes the river and arrives at Ottaffe—rotunda and fquare—black drink—fpiral fire—Sabbath or holy day to the Great Spirit—fets off with a company of traders for Georgia— Chehaw and Vf-feta, Creek towns on the Apalachucla river, almoft join each other, yet the inhabitants (peak two languages radically different—arrives at the Oak mi I —' eroffes the river in a portable leather boat—croffes the river Oconne—head branches of Great Ogeche—arrives at Auguila— takes leave of Augutta and his friend: there, and procetds for Savanna— hit of Mufcogiuge towns and villages— tefljeftttffil concerning the rife of the Mufcogulge eoulejcracy 438 , CHAP.
CONTENTS. vl< CHAP. IX.
Short excurfion in the South of Georgia—makes collections—gathers feed oi two new and very curious Ihrubs 4°S CHAP. X.
Proceeds for Charlefton—Calls at a gentleman's plantation—Adoe—Tannicr— wild pigeons—Alter fruticofus—leaves Charlefton, proceeds on his return home to Pennlylvania—erodes Cooper river, nine miles ai*>\'« the city—Long Bay — reef of rocks—meets a gang of Negroes—paffes the boundary-houfe—large la-vanna—Dionxa mufcipula—old towns—Brunlwick—the Clarendon or Cape-Fear river_North Welt—>Livingftoa ■ Ciilk  WssckamU'W lake—Carver's en ek
_Afhwixid_varies* vegetable productions—cultivated vegetables—defcribes the
face of the country on the banks of the North Weft and the adjacent lands—it rat* of the cut!', or toll—rocks—petrifactions—ancient fubmarinc productions, Jcc.— leaves Aihwood, continues up the river—van trunks of trees with their roots, awl Hump* of limbs, with the bark on, turned into very hard (tone—Rock-hlh creek—Crois Creeks—the rife, progrefs, and prefent ftatc of Cambelton—curious fpecies of fcandent Fern—Deep River - croffes Haw River—Mehcr.cn river in Virginia*- CuCurbita lagenaria—curious fpecie:. of Prinos-—Alexandria-George town—fuddeu fall of fnow—cxticmc cold—croffes the river Sufquehanna Uj m the ke—river Schuylkill—arrives at his father's houfe, within three railtt
of PhUadelphia 467 PART IV. CHAP. I.
Perfons, character, and qualifications of the Aborigines—molt perfect human figure— Uuicagusge women— women of the Chcrokccs—arrogance of the Muf-cogulges, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquilhed enemy 4Is I
C H A P. II.
(I ivernment and civil fociety —conftituti on limply natural—the mico or king
prelidcs in the lenate—elective—yet myftcrious—the next man in dignity and poWct is the great war chief—entirely independent of the mico—his voice in council of the grcatelt weight concerning military affairs—the high prieft a pcrfon of tonfequence, and maintains great influence in their coiiftitution and councils of it.itc—thefe Indians not idolaters—they adore the Great Spirit, the giver and taker away of the breath ot lite, with the moll profound homage and purity—anecdote
49 *
CHAP. III.
Drefs, feafk, and divrrtifements—youth of both fexes arc fond of decorations with refpect to drefs—their ears lacerated—diadem plumes, &c—paint their lkiu—drefs ot the females different from that of the men—great homed owl fkin ihiffed and born about by the pricfh—itifignia of wifdoin and divination—fond of mulic, dancing, and rout.—different claffes of fong,—variety of iteps in their dances—fcnJiblc and powerful effects—ball play—feftival of the Bulk 499
C H A P. IV.
Concerning property, agriculture, arts, and manufactures—private property —produce of their agricultural labours—common plantation—king's crib—public trcalury—women the moil ingenious and vigilant in mechanic art., and manufactures 500 C H A P. V.
Marriages and funeral rites—polygamy—take wives whilft they arc yet young children—adultciy—Mulcogul^es Vury their dead in a fitting pofture—It range ttuftoms of the Chaetaws relative to duties to the deceafed--bonc-houfe—dirges— featl to the dead—method, which the nurfts puilue to flatten the infant's fkull and retain its form 51 %
CHAP. VI.
Language and monuments— Mufcogulge language fpoken throughout the confederacy-agreeable to the ear-Cherokee language loud—pyramid d artificial hilts or mounts, terraces, obelisks—high ways and artificial lake —chunk yards— flavc pulU 5'7
INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
TtlE attention of a traveller mould be particularly turned, in the raft place, to the various works of Nature, to mark the diftincrions of the climates he may explore, and to offer fuch ufeful ocbfervations on the different productions as may occur. Men and manners undoubtedly hold the firft rank—whatever may contribute to our exiftence is alio of equal importance, whether it be found in the animal or vegetable kingdom j neither are the various articles, which tend to promote the happinefs and convenience of mankind, to be difregarded. How far the writer of the following meets has fucceeded in furnifhing information on thefe fubjects, the reader will be capable of determining. From the advantages the journalifV. enjoyed under his father John Bartram, botanifl to the king of Great Britain, and fellow of the Royal Society, it is hoped that his labours will prefent new as well as ufeful information to the botanifl: and zoologift.
This world, as a glorious apartment of the bound-lefs palace of the fovereign Creator, is furnifhed with an infinite variety of animated fcenes, inex-preiTibly beautiful and pleafing, equally free to the mfpec~tion and enjoyment of all his creatures.
Perhaps there is not any part of creation, within the reach of cur obiervations, which exhibits a more glorious difplay of the Almighty hand, than the vegetable world ; fuch a variety of pleafing fcenes, ever changing throughout the leafons, arifing from
various
various caufes, and atTigned each to the ptirpofe and life determined.
It is difficult to pronounce which divifion of the earth, between the polar circles, produces the grcateft variety. The tropical divifion certainly affords thofe which principally contribute to the more luxurious fcenes of ipltndour, as Myrtus communis, Myrt. caryophyllata, Myrt. pimenta, Caryophyllus aromaticus, Laurus cinnam. Laurus camphor. I au-rus Perfica, Nux mofch. Illicium, Camellia, Pu-nica, Caftus melo-ca&us, Caftus grandiflora, Glo-riofa fuperba, Theobroma, Adanfonia digitata, Nyclanthes, Pfidium, Mula paradifica, Mufa fa-pientum, Garcinia mangoftana, Cocos nucifera, Citrus, Citrus aurantium, Cucurbita citrullus, Hya-cinthus, Amaryllis, NarcilTus, Poinciana pulcherri-ma, Crinum, Cactus cochinellifer.
But the temperate zone (including by far the greater portion of the earth, and a climate the moil favourable to the increafe and fupport of animal life, as well as for the exercife and activity of the human faculties) exhibits fcenes of infinitely greater variety, magnificence, and confequence, with refpect to human economy, in regard to the various ufes oi vegetables.
For inftance; Triticum Cereale, which affords us bread, and is termed, by way of eminence, the ftaff of life, the mod pleafant and nourifhing food to all terreftrial animals. Vitis vinifera, whole exhilarating juice is faid to cheer the hearts of gods and men. Oryza, Zea, Pyrus, Pyrus malus, Pru-nus, Pr. cerafus, Ficus, Ne&arin, Apricot, Cydo-nia. Next follow the illuflrious families of foreft-trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora and Quercus fempervirens, which form the venerated groves and folemn fhades, on the MiiTiflippi, Alatamaha and
b Florida;
Florida i the magnificent Cuprefius difticha of Carolina and Florida; the beautiful Water Oak *, whofe vaft hemifpheric head prefents the likenefs of a diftant grove in the fields and favannas of Carolina ; the gigantic Black Oak f, Platanus occi-dentalis, Liquidambar flyraciflua, Liriodendron tu-lipifera, Fagus caftanea, Fagus fylvatica, Juglans nigra, Juglans cinerea, Jttg. pecan, Ulmus, Acer faccharinum, of Virginia and Pennfylvania i Pinus phcenix, Pinus tceda, Magnolia acuminata, Nyfla aquatica, Populus heterophylla, and the floriferous Gordonia lafianthus, of Carolina and Florida; the exalted Pinus ftrobus, Pin. balfamica, Pin. abies, Pin. Canadenfis, Pin. larix, Fraxinus excelfior, Ro-binia pfeudacacia, Guilandina dioica, .flsfculus Vir-ginica, Magnolia acuminata, of Virginia, Maryland, Penniylvania, New Jerfey, New York, New England, Ohio, and the regions of Erie and the Illinois; and the aromatic and floriferous fhrubs, as Azalea coccinea, Azalea rofea, Rofa, Rhododendron, Kalmia, Syringa, Gardenia, Calycanthus, Daphne, Franklinia, Sty rax, and others equally celebrated.
In every order of nature we perceive a variety of qualities diftributed amongft individuals, defigned for different purpol'es and ufes; yet it appears evident, that the great Author has impartially diftributed his favours to his creatures, fo that the attributes of each one feem to be of iufHcient importance to manifeit the divine and inimitable work-manfhip. The pompous Palms of Florida, and glorious Magnolia, iirikes us with the fenfe of dignity and magnificence; the expanfive umbrageous Live Oak J with awful veneration; the Carica
* Qucrxus Hcmifphtfica.    + Quercus tinelyrU.    J C^cretf, fmipervrntis.
6 " papaya,
papaya feems fupercilious with all the harmony of beauty and gracefulnefs; tlie Lilium fuperbum rc-prefents pride and vanity; Kalmia latifolia and Azalea coccinea, exhibit a perfect fhow of mirth and gaiety; the Illicium Floridanum, Crinum Floridanum, Convallaria majalts of the Cherokees, and Calycanthus floridus, charm with their beauty and fragrance.   Yet they are not to be compared for ufefulnefs with the nutritious Triticum, Zea, Oryza, Solanum tuberofum, Mufa, Convolvulus Batata, Rapa, Orchis, Vitis vinifera, Pyrus, Olea ; for clothing with Linum Cannabis, GoiTypium, Morus; for medicinal virtues with HyfTopus, Thymus, Anthemis nobilis, Papaver fomniferum, Quinquina, Rheum rhabarbarum, Pifum, &c.   Though none of thefe molt ufeful tribes are confpicuous for ftatelinefs, figure, or fplendour, yet their valuable qualities and virtues excite love,  gratitude, and adoration to the great Creator, who was pleafed to endow them with fuch eminent qualities, and reveal them to us for our fuftenance, amufement, and delight.
But there remain of the vegetable world feveral tribes that are diftinguifhed by very remarkable properties, which excite our admiration, fome for the elegance, Angularity, and fplendour of their veft-ment, as the Tulipa, Fritillaria, Colchicum, Primula, Lilium fuperbum, Kalmia, &c.: others aftonifh us by their figure and difpofal of their vef-ture, as if defigned only to embellifh and pleafe the obferver, as the Nepenthes diftillatoria, Ophrys infectoria, Cypripedium calceolus, Hydrangia qucr-cifolia, Bartramia bra&eata, Viburnum Canadenfe> Bartfia, &c.
Obferve thefe green meadows how they are decorated; they feem enamelled with the beds of flowers.   The blufhing Chironia and Rhexia, the
b 2 ipii-4
fpiral Ophrys with immaculate white flowers, the Limodorum, Arethufa pulchcrrima, Sarracenia purpurea,  Sarracenia  galeata,   Sarracenia lacunofa, Sarracenia flava.   Shall we analyze thefe beautiful, plants, fince they feem cheerfully to invite us ? How greatly the flowers of the yellow Sarracenia repre-fent a filken canopy ? the yellow pendant petals are the curtains, and the hollow leaves are not unlike the cornucopia or Amalthea's horn j what a quantity of water a leaf is capable of containing, about a pint! tafbe of it—how cool and animating—limpid as the morning dew: nature feems to have fur-nifhed them with this cordated appendage or lid, which turns over, to prevent a too iiidden and copious fupply of water from heavy mowers of rain, which would bend down the leaves, never to rife again; becaufe their ftraight parallel nerves, which extend and fupport them, are fo rigid and fragile, the leaf would inevitably break when bent down to a right angle j therefore 1 fuppofe the waters whicli contribute to their fupply, are the rebounding drops or horizontal ltreams wafted by the winds, winch adventitioiifly find their way into them, when a bJaft of wind fhifts the lid: fee thefe ihort ftiff hairs, they all point downwards, which direct the con-denfed vapours down into the funiculum j thefe (tiff hairs alio prevent the varieties of infects, which are caught from returning, being invited down to fip the mellifluous exudation, from the interior furface of the tube, where they inevitably perifh> what quantities there are of them ! Thefe latent waters undoubtedly contribute to the fupport and refrefhment of the plant: perhaps dengned as a refervoir in cafe of long continued droughts, or other cafualties, fince thefe plants naturally dwell in low favannas liable to overflows, from rain water; for although I am not'
■
of the opinion that vegetables receive their noimfoment only through the afcending part of the plant, as the Hem, branches, leaves, 8tC; and that their defcending parts, as the root and fibres, only ierve, to hold and retain them in their places; yet I believe they imbibe rain  and dews through their leaves, ftems, and branches, by extremely minute pores, which open on both furfaces of the leaves and on the branches, which may communicate to little auxiliary ducb or vefTels; or, perhaps the cool dews and mowers, by contracting thefe pores, and thereby preventing a too free perfpiration, may recover and again invigorate the languid nerves of thofe which feem to fiiffer for want of water, in great heats and droughts; but whether the infects caught in their leaves, and which diiTolve and mix with the fluid, ferve for aliment or fupport to thefe kind of plants, is doubtful.   All the Sarra-cenias are infect catchers, and fo is the DrolTea rotundifolia.
But admirable are the properties of the extraordinary Dionea mufcipula! A great extent on each fide of that ferpentine rivulet is occupied by thofe fportive vegetables—let us advance to the fpot in which nature has feated them.   Aftonifhing production ! fee the incarnate lobes expanding, how gay and fportive they appear ! ready on the fpring to intrap incautious deluded infects! what artifice! there behold one of the leaves jult clofed upon a ftruggling fly; another has gotten a worm; its hold is lure, its prey can never efcape—carnivorous vegetable I Can we after viewing this object, hefitate a moment to confefs, that vegetable beings are endued with fome fenfible faculties or attributes, fimilar to thofe that dignify animal nature j they arc
organical,
b 3
organical, living, and fclf-moving bodies, for we fee here, in this plants motion and volition.
What power or faculty is it, that directs the cirri of the Cucurbita, Momordica, Vitis, and other climbers, towards the twigs of fhrubs, trees, and other friendly fupport ? we fee them invariably leaning, extending, and like the fingers of the human hand, reaching to catch hold of what is nearelr, jult as if they had eyes to fee with; and when their hold is fixed, to coil the tendril in a fpiral form, by which artifice it becomes more elaltic and effectual, than if it had remained in a direct line, for every revolution of the coil adds a portion of ftrength; and thus collected, they are enabled to dilate and Contract as occafion or necelTity requires, and thus by yielding to, and humouring the motion of the limbs and twigs, or other fupport on which they depend, are not fo liable to be torn off by fudden blaits of wind or other alTaultsi is it fenfe or initinct that influences their actions ? it muit be fome impulfc j or does the hand of the Almighty act and perform this work in our fight I ■ s The vital principle or efficient caufe of motion and action, in the animal and vegetable* fyftem, perhaps, may be more fimilar than we generally apprehend. ' Where is the eiTential difference between the feed of peas, peaches, and other tribes of plants and 1 trees, and the eggs of oviparous animals, as of birds, fnakes, or butterflies, fpawn of fifh, &c? Let us begin at the fource of terreftrial cxiitence. Are not the feeds of vegetables, and the eggs of oviparous animals fecundated, or influenced with the vivific principle of life, through the approximation and intimacy of the fexes ? and immediately after the eggs and feeds are' hatched, does not the
'" '     ■ Via. SDonfolia rdaritarum, Amcen. Acad I. n. 12. Linn-
young larva and infant plant, by heat and moifture, rife into exiftence, increafe, and in due time arrive to a ftate of perfect maturity ? The phyfiologifts agree in opinion, that the work of generation in viviparous animals, is exactly fimilar, only more fecret and enveloped. The mode of operation that nature purfues in the production of vegetables, and oviparous animals, is infinitely more uniform and manifeit, than that which is or can be difcovered to take place in viviparous animals.
The molt apparent difference between animals and vegetables is, that animals have the powers of found, and are locomotive, whereas vegetables arc not able to {hift themfelves from the places where nature has planted them: yet vegetables have the power of moving and exercifing their members, and have the means of tranfplanting or coloniling their tribes almoft over the furface of the whole earth i fome feeds, for inftance, grapes, nuts, fmilax, peas, and others, whofe pulp or kernel is food for animals, will remain feveral days without being injured in ttomachs of pigeons and other birds of palTage, by this means fuch forts are dilbibuted from place to place, even acrofs feas; indeed fome feeds require this preparation by the digeltive heat of the ftomach of animals, to dilTolve and detach the oily, vifcid pulp, or to foften the hard fTiells. Small feeds are fometimes furnifhed with rays of hair or down j and others with thin light membranes attached to them, which ferve the purpofe of wings, on which they mount upward, leaving the earth, float in the air, and are carried away by the fwift winds to very remote regions before they fettle on the earth; fome are furniitied with hooks, which catch hold of the wool and hair of animals paffing by them, and are by that means fpread abroad;
b 4 orher
other feeds ripen in pericarpes, which open with elaitic force, and fhoct their feed to a very great difiance round about; fome other feeds, as of the ivlofles and Fungi, are fo very minute as to be in-vifibie, light as atoms, and thefe mixing with the air, are wafted all over the world.
The animal creation alfo excites our admiration, and equaliy manifefts the almighty power, wifdom, and beneficence of the Supreme Creator and Sovereign Lord ot the univcrfe; fome in their vafl-fize and flrength, as the mammoth, the elephant, the whale, the lion, and alligator; others in agility; others in their beauty and elegance of colour, plumage, and rapidity of flight, having the faculty of moving and living in the air; others for their immediate and indifpenfable ufe and convenience to man, in furnilhing means for our clothing and fuitcnance, and adminiftering to our help in the * toils and labours of life; how wonderful is the me-chanifm of thefe finely formed felf-moving beings, how complicated their fyftem, yet what unerring uniformity prevails through every tribe and particular fpecies! the effect: we fee and contemplate, the caufe is invifible, incomprehenfible; how can it be otherwifc? when we cannot fee the end or origin of a nerve or vein, while the divifibiiity of matter or fluid, is inrinite.   VVe admire the me-chanifm of a watch, and the fabric of a piece of brocade, as being the production of art; thefe merit our admiration, and muft excite our efteem for the ingenious artift or modifier; but nature is the work of God omnipotent; and an elephant, nay even this world, is comparatively but a very minute part of his works.   If then the viflble, the mechanical part pf the animal creation, die mere material part, is fo admirably beautiful, harmonious, and incomprehenfible.
henfible, what mull be the intellectual fyftem ? that inexprefiibly more effential principle, which feeretly operates within ? that which animates the inimitable machines, which gives them motion, impowers them to act, fpeak, and perform, this mult be divine and immortal ?
I am fenfible that the general opinion of philo-fophers, has diftinguifhed the moral fyftem of the brute creature from that of mankind, by an epithet -which implies a mere mechanical impulfe, which leads and impels them to neceiTary actions, without any premeditated defign or contrivance; this we term inftinct, which faculty we fuppofe to be inferior to reafon in man.
The parental and filial affections feem to be as ardent, their fenfibility and attachment as active and faithful, as thofe obferved in human nature.
When travelling on the eaft coall of the ifthmus of Florida, afcending the fouth Mufquito river, in a canoe, we obferved numbers of deer and bears, near the banks, and on the iflands of the river; the bears were feeding on the fruit of the dwarf creeping Chamterops; (this fruit is of the form and fize of dates, and is delicious and nouriming food:) we faw eleven bears in the courfe of the day, they feemed no way furprifed or affrighted at the fight of us.   In the evening, my hunter, who was an excellent markfman, faid that he would (hoot one of them, for the fake of the fkin and oil, for we had plenty and variety of provifions in our bark. We accordingly, on light of two of them, planned Our approaches as artfully as poffiblc, by croffing over to the oppofite fhore, in order to get under cover of a fmall ifland; this we cautioufly coalted round, to a point, which we apprehended would take us within fhot of the bears; but here finding
ourfelvcsfc
XViii INTRODUCTION.
ourfelves at too great a diftance from them, and difcovering that we muft openly mow ourfelves, we had no other alternative to effect our purpofe, but making oblique approaches. We gained gradually on our prey by this artifice, without their noticing us: finding ourfelves near enough, the hunter fired, and laid the largeft dead on the fpot where (he flood; when prefently the other, not feeming the lead moved at the report of our piece, approached the dead body, fmelled, and pawed it, and appearing in agony, fell to weeping and looking upwards, then towards us, and cried out like a child. Whilft our boat approached very near, the hunter was loading his rifle in order to (hoot the furvivor, which was a young cub, and the flain fuppofed to be the dam. The continual cries of this afflicted child;, bereft of its parent, affected me very fenfi-bly; I was moved with companion, and charging myfelf as if accelTary to what now appeared to be a cruel murder, endeavoured to prevail on the hunter to fave its life, but to no effect! for by habit he had become infenfible to companion towards the brute creation: being now widiin a few yards of the harmlefs devoted victim, he fired, and laid it dead upon the body of the dam.
If we beftow but very little attention to the economy of the animal creation, we fliall find ma-nifeft examples of premeditation, perfeverance, re-folution, and confummate artifice, in order to effect their purpofes. The next morning, after the (laughter of the bears, whilft my companions were ftriking our tent and preparing to re-embark, I refolved to make a little botanical excurfion alone: crofting over a narrow ifthmus of land hills which feparated the river from the ocean, I paffed over a pretty high hill> its fummit ctefted with a few palm trees,
furrounded
Surrounded with an Orange grove t this hill, whole )aafe was walTied on one fide by the floods of the Mufquitoe river, and on the other fide by the billows of the ocean, was about one hundred yards diameter, and feemed to be an entire heap of fea fhells.   I continued along the beach a quarter of a mile, and came up to a foreft of the Agave vivi-para (though compofed of herbaceous plants, I term it a foreft, becaufe their fcapes or flower-ftems arofe erect, near 30 feet high); their tops re-^ gularly branching in the form of a pyramidal tree, and thefe plants growing near to each other, occupied a fpace of ground of feveral acres; when their feeds are ripe they vegetate, and grow on the branches, until the fcape dries, when the young plants fall to the ground, take root, and fix them-felves in the fand ; the plant grows to a prodigious fize before the fcape moots up from its centre-Having contemplated this admirable grove, I proceeded towards the fhrubberies on the banks of the river, and though it was now late in December, the aromatic groves appeared in full bloom. The broad-leaved fweet Myrtus, Erythrina coralloden-drum, Ca&us cochinellifer, Cacalia fuftruticofa, and particularly, Rhizophora conjugata, which ftood clofe to and in the fait water of the river, were in full bloom, with beautiful white fweet fcented flowers, which attracted to them two or three fpecies of very beautiful butterflies, one of which was black, the upper pair of its wings very long and narrow, marked with trarifverfe ftripes of pale yellow, with fome fpots of a crimfon colour near the body. Another fpecies remarkable for fplendour, was of a larger lize; the wings were undulated and obtufcly cre-nated round their ends, the nether pair terminating pear the body, wk}i a long narrow forked tail; the
ground
ground light yellow, ftriped oblique-tranfverfely, with ftripes of pale celellial blue, the ends of them adorned with little eyes encircled with the fineft blue and crimfon, which reprefented a very brilliant rofary. But thofe which were the molt numerous were as white as fnow, their wings large, their ends lightly crenated and ciliated, forming a fringed border, faintly marked with little black crefcents, their points downward, with a clutter of little brilliant orbs of blue and crimfon, on the nether wings near the body; the numbers were incredible, and there ieemed to be fcarcely a flower for each fly, multitudinous as they were, befides clouds of them hovering over the mellifluous groves. Befides thefe pa-piles, a variety of other infects come in for a fhare, particularly feveral fpecies of bees.
As I was gathering fpecimens of flowers from the fhrubs, I was greatly furprifed at the fudden appearance of a remarkably large fpider on a leaf, of the genus Araneus faliens: at fight of me he boldly faced about, and raifed himfelf up, as if ready to fpring upon me; his body was about the fize of a pigeon's egg, of a buff colour, which, with his legs, were covered with ihort fiiky hair; on the top of the abdomen was a round red fpot or ocelle encircled with black. After I had recovered from the furprife, obferving that the wary hunter had retired under cover, I drew near again, and prefently dif-covered that I had furprifed him on predatory attempts againlt the infect tribes. I was therefore determined to watch his proceedings, I foon noticed that the object of his wiihes was a large fat bomble bee (apis bombylicus), that was vifiting the flowers, and piercing their nectariferous tubes: this cunning intrepid hunter conducted his fubtil approaches with the circumfpection and perfevcrance
of
t)f a Simlnole when hunting a deer, advancing with flow fteps obliquely, or under cover of denfe foliage, and behind the limbs, and when the bee was engaged in probing a flower, he would leap nearer, and then inftantly retire out of fight, under a leaf or behind a branch, at the fame time keeping a fliarp eye upon me.  When he had now gotten within two feet of iiis prey* and the bee was intent on fipping the delicious nectar from a flower, with his back next the fpider, he inflant'iy fprang upon him, and grafped him over the back and moulder, when for fome moments they both difappeared.   I expected the bee had carried off his enemy, but to my fur-prife, they both together rebounded back again, lufpended at the extremity of a ftrong elaftic thread or web, which the fpider had artfully let fall, or fixed on the twig, the inltant he leaped from it: the rapidity of the bee's wings, endeavouring to extricate himfelf, made them both together appear as a moving vapour, until the bee became fatigued by whirl-, ing round, firlt one way and then back again: at length, in about a quarter of an hour, the bee quite cxhauited by his druggies, and the repeated wounds of the butcher, became motionlefs, and quickly expired in the arms of the devouring fpider, who, afcending the rope with his game, retired to feaft on it under cover of the leaves; and perhaps before nighty became himfelf the delicious evening repair, of a bird or lizard.
Birds^ are in general foetal and benevolent creatures; intelligent, ingenious, volatile, active beings ; and this order of animal creation confifts of various nations, bands, or tribes, as may be obferved from their different ftructure, manners, and languages, or voice; t&eh nation, though fubdi-vided into many different tribes, retaining its ge-^ neral
neral form or ftructure, a fmiilarity of cuftoms, anci a fort of dialect or language, particular to that nation or genus from which thofe tribes feem to have riefcended or feparated. What I mean by a language in birds, is the common notes or fpeech, that ther ufe when employed in feeding themfelves and their young, calling on one another, as well as their menaces againft their enemy; for their fongs feem to be mufical compofitions, performed only by the males, about the time of incubation, in part to divert and amufe the female, entertaining her with melody, &c.   This harmony, with the tender fo-Jicitude of the male, alleviates the toils, cares, and diftreffes of the female, confoles her in folitary retirement whilft fitting, and animates her with affection and attachment to himfelf in preference to any other.   The volatility of their fpecies, and operation of their paflions and affections, are particularly confpicuous in the different tribes of the thrufh, famous for fong.   On a fweet May morning we fee the red thruihes (turdus rufus) perched on an elevated fprig of the fnowy Hawthorn, fweet flowering Crab, or other hedge ihrub, exerting their ac-complifhments in fong, ftriving by varying and elevating their voices to excel each other; we obfervc a very agreeable variation, not only in tone but in modulation; the voice of one is fhrill, of another lively and elevated, of others fonorous and quiver* ing.   The mock-bird (turdus polyglottos) who excels, diftinguifhes himfelf in a variety of action a* well as air; from a turret he bounds aloft with the celerity of an arrow, as it were to recover or recal his very foul, expired in the laft elevated ftrain. The high forefts are filled with the fymphony of the fong or wood thrufh (turdus minor).
Both fexes of fome tribes of birds fing equally
finely -f
finely ; and it is remarkable, that thefe reciprocally afliit in their domeftic cares, as building their nefts and fitting on their eggs, feeding and defending their young brood, &c.    The oriolus (icterus, Cat.) is an inftance of this cafe; and the female of the icterus minor is a bird of more fplendid and gay drefs than the male bird.    Some tribes of birds will relieve and rear up the young and helplefs, of their own and other tribes, when abandoned. Anw mal fubftance feems to be the firft food of all birds, even the granivorous tribes.
Having palTed through fome remarks, which appeared of fufBcient confequence to be offered to the public, and which were moll fuitable to have a place in the introduction, I mall now offer fuch ob-fervations as muft neceffarily occur, from a careful attention to, and inveftigation of, the manners of the Indian nations; being induced, while traveling among them, to aflbciate with them, that I might judge for myfelf, whether they were deferving of the fevere cenfure which prevailed againft them among the white people, that they were incapable of civilization.
In the confideration of this important fubject it will be neceffary to inquire, whether they were inclined to adopt the European modes of civil focie-ty ? Whether fuch a reformation could be obtained, without ufing coercive or violent means ? And laltly, whether fuch a revolution would be productive of real benefit to them, and confequently beneficial to the public ? I was fatisfied in difcovering that they were defirous of becoming united with us, in civil and religious fociety.
It may, therefore, not be foreign to the fubject, to point out the propriety of lending men of ability and virtue, under the authority of government,
as
as friendly vifitors, into their towns: let thefe men
he inftructed to learn perfectly their languages, and by a liberal and friendly intimacy become acquainted with their cuftoms and ufages, religious and civil ; their fyftem of legiflation and police, as well as their moft ancient and prefent traditions and hif-tory. Thefe men thus enlightened and initruited would be qualified to judge equitably, and when returned to us, to make true and juft reports, which might aiTift the legiflaturc of the United States to form, and offer to them, a judicious plan for their civilization and union with us.
But I prefume not to dictate in thefe high concerns of government, and I am fully convinced that fuch important matters are far above my ability; the duty and refpect we owe to religion and rectitude, the moft acceptable incenfe we offer to the Almighty, as an atonement for our negligence in the care of the prefent and future wellbeing of our Indian brethren, induce me to mention this matter, though perhaps of greater concernment than we generally are aware.
TRAVELS
TRAVELS
I u
NORTH AMERICA.
.1 ,—rBnM>M,
CHAP. I.
THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM PHILADELPHIA, AND ARRIVES AT CHARLESTON, FROM WHENCE HE BEGINS HIS TRAVELS^
At the requell of Dr. Fothergill, of London, to fearcH the Floridas, and the weftern parts of Carolina and Georgia, for the difcovery of rare and ufeful productions of nature, chiefly in the vegetable kingdom; in April, 1773, I embaiked for Charleston, South Carolina, on board the brigan-tine Charleilon packet, captain Wright,  the brig
--------, captain Mafon, being in company with
us, and bound to the fame port. We had a plea-fant run down the Delaware, 150 miles to cape Hcnlopen, the two veffels entering the Atlantic to* gether. For the firfl: twenty-f>ur hours wc had a profperous gale, and were cheerful ar^J happy in the profpe6t of a quick and pleafant voyage; but, alas! how vain and uncertain are human expectations! how quickly is the flattering fcene changed! The powerful winds, now ruining forth from
B their
their ferret abodes, fuddenly fpread terror and de~-vaftation; and the wide ocean, which, a few moments pad, was gentle and placid, is now thrown into diforder, and heaped into mountains, whole white curling erefts feem to fweep the fkies!
This furious gale continued near two days and nights, and not a little damaged our fails, cabin furniture, and date-rooms, befides retarding our paflage. The dorm having abated, a lively gale from N. W. continued four or five days, when finding to N. and ladly to N. E. on the tenth of our departure from cape Henlopen, early in the morning, we defcried a fail adern, and in a fhort time discovered it to be capt. Mafon, who foon came up with us. We hailed each other, being joyful to meet again, after fo many dangers. Pie raftered greatly by the gale, but providentially made a good harbour within cape Hatteras. As he ran by us, he threw on board ten or a dozen bafs, a large and delicious fifh, having caught a great number of them whild he was detained in harbour. He got into Charledon that evening, and we the next morning, about eleven o'clock.
There are few object's out at fea to attract the notice of the traveller, but what are fublime, awful, and majedic: the feas tliemfelves, in a temped, exhibit a tremendous fcene, where the wind's afferu their power, and, in furious conflict, feem to fet the ocean on fire. On the other hand, nothing can be more fublime than the view of the encircling hor';on, after the turbulent winds have taken their flight, and the lately agitated bofom of the deep has again become calm and pacific; die gentle moon rifing in dignity from the ead, attended by thoufands of glittering orbs; the luminous appearance
pearance of die feas at night, when all the waters feem tranfmuted into liquid filver; the prodigious bands of porpoifes foreboding temped:, that appear to cover the ocean; the mighty whale, fovereign of the watery realms, who cleaves die feas in his courfe; the fudden appearance of land from the fea, the ftrand ltretcliing each way, beyond the ut-moft reach of fight; the alternate appearance and recefs of the coaft, whilft the far diftant blue hills flowly retreat and difappear; or, as we approach the coaft, the capes and promontories firft ftrike our fight, emerging from the watery expanfe, and, like mighty giants, elevating their crefts towards the ikies; the water fuddenly alive with its fcaly inhabitants; fquadrons of fea-fowl fweeping through the air, impregnated with the breath of fragrant aromatic  trees  and  flowers;  the amplitude and magnificence of thefe fcenes are great indeed, and may prefent to the imagination, an idea of the firft appearance of the earth to man at the creation.
On my arrival at Charlefton, I waited on doctor Chalmer, a gentleman of eminence in his profeffion and public employment:!;, to whom I was recommended by my worthy patron, and to whom I was to apply for counfel and afiiflance, for carrying into effect, my intended travels.    I nc doctor received me with perfect politenefs, and, on every occafion, treated me with friendfbip; and by means of the countenance which he gnve me, and the marks of efteem with which he honoured me, I became acquainted with many of the worthy fi mi lies, not only of Carolina and Georgia, but alio in the diftant countries of Florida.
CHAP,
C HAP. II.
Arriving in Carolina very early in the fprrng, vegetaii n was not fufficicntly advanced to invite me into the weltern parts of this fiate; from which circurnft.mce, 1 concluded to make an excurfion into Georgia; accordingly, 1 embarked on board a coafting vcflel, and in twemy-four hours arrived in Savanna, the capital, where, acquainting the governor, Sir J. Wright, with my bufinel^ iiis excellency received me with great politcnefs, (hewed me every mark of efteem and regard, and furnifh-ed me with letters to the principal inhabitants of the (tate, which were of great fervice to me. Another circumftance very opportunely occurred on my arrival: the ailembly was then fitting in Savanna, and feveral members lodging in the fame houfe where I took up my quarters, I became acquainted with feveral worthy characters, who invited me to call at their leats occafionally, as I pafTed through the country; particularly the hon. B. Andrews, efq. a diftinguifhed, patriotic, and liberal character.   This gentleman's feat, and well cultivated plantations, are fituated near the fouth high road, which I often travelled; and I feldom paffed his houfe without calling to fee him, for it was the feat of virtue, where hofpitality, piety, and philofophy, formed the happy family; where the weary traveller and flranger found a hearty welcome, and from whence it mult be his own fault if he departed without being greatly benefited.
^fter
After rcfting, and a little recreation for a few clays in Savanna, and having in the mean time purchafed a good horfe, and equipped myfelf far a journey fouthward, I fat off tarly in the morning for Sunbury, a fea-port town, Ixamii'uiiy ficuated on the main, between Medway and Newport rivers, about fifteen miles fouth of gieat Ogeeche river.   The town and harbour are defended from the fury of the feas by the north and fouth points of St. Helena and South Catharine's iflands; between which is the bar and entrance into the found: the harbour is capacious and fafe, and has water enough for fhips of great burthen.   I arrived here in the evening, in company with a gentleman, one of the inhabitants, who politely introduced me to one of the principal families, where I flipped and fpent the evening in a circle of genteel and polite ladies and gentlemen.   Next day, being defirous of vipting the ifiands, I forded a narrow fhoal, part of the found, and landed on one of them, which employed me the whole day to explore.   The fur-face and vegetable mould here is generally a loofe fand, not very fertile, except fome fpots bordering on the found and inlets, where are found heaps or mounds of fea-fhell, either formerly brought there by the Indians, who inhabited the ifland, or which were perhaps thrown up in ridges, by the beating furfacc of the fea: poflibly both thefe circumftances may have contributed to their formation. Thefe fea fhells, through length of time, and the fubtle penetrating effects of the air, which diffolve them to earth,  render thefe ridges very fertile ; and, when clear of their trees, and cultivated, they become profufely productive of almoft every kind of vegetable.   Here arc alfo large plantations of B 3 indigo,
indigo, corn, and potatoes *, with many other forts of efculent plants. I obferved, amongft the fhells of the conical mounds, fragments of earthen vef-fels, and of other utenfils, the manufacture of the ancients: about the centre of one of them, the rim of an earthen pot appeared amongft the fhells and earth, which 1 carefully removed, and drew it out, almoft whole: this pot was curioufly wrought all over the outfide, repn fenttng bafket work, and was undoubtedly efteemed a very ingenious performance, by the people, at the age of its conftruction. The natural produce of thefe teftaceous ridges, befides many ot lefs note, are, the great Laurel Tree, (Magnolia grandiflora) Pinus taxla, Laurus Bor-bonia, Que reus femperviren , or Live Oak, Prunus Lauro-cerafus, Ikx aqiAfolium, Corypha palma, Juniperus Americana. Hie general furface of the Ifland being low, an 1 generally level, produces a very great variety of trees, fhrubs, and herbaceous plants; particularly the great long-leaved Pitch* Pine, or Broom-Pine, Pinus paluftris, Pinus fqua-moft, Pinus lutea, Gordouia Lafianthus, Liquid am bar (Siyraciflua) Acer rubium, Fraxinus excel-cioT| Fraxinus aqiunca, Quercus aquatica, Quercus phllos, Quercus dentata, Quercus humila varietas, Vacciniu'ii varietas, Andromeda varietas, Prinos varietas, Ilex varietas, Viburnum prunirblium, V. den-tatum, Cornus llorida, C. alba, C. fanguinea, Car-pinus betula, C. oftrya, Itea Clethra alnifolia, H le-fia tetraptera, H. diptera, Iva, Rhamnus rrangula, Callicarpa, Morus rubra, Sapindus, Caftinc, and of fu; i as grow near water-courfes, round about p >nds and favannas, Fothergilla gardini, Myrica ccrifera,   Olea  Americana,   Cyrilla racemiilora,
Convolvulus batata.
Magnolia
Magnolia  glauca, Magnolia pyramidata, Cercis, Kalmia anguilifolia,  Kalmia ciliata, Chionanthus, Cephahnthos, ^Efculus parva; and the intermediate fpaces,  furroimding and lying between the ridges and lavannas, are interfered with plains of the dwarf prickly fan-leaved Palmetto, and lawns of grafs variegated with ftately trees of the great Broom-Pine, and the fprcading ever-green Water-Oak,  either difpofed in chimps,  or fcatteringly planted by nature.   The upper furface, or vegetative foil of the ifland, lies on a foundation, or ftra-tum, of tenacious cineieous-colonred clay, which perhaps is the principal fupport of the vail growth of timber that arifes from the furface, which is little more than a mixture of fine white fand and difTolved vegetables, ferving as a nurfery bed to hatch  or  bring into exiflence  the infant plant, and to fupply it with aliment and food, fuitable to its delicacy and tender frame, until the roots, acquiring fufRcient extent and folidity to lay hold of the clay, foon attain a magnitude and liability diffident to maintain its ftation.   Probably if this clay were dug out, and call upon the furface, after being meliorated by the faline or nitrous qualities of the air, it would kindly incorporate with the loofe fand, and become a productive and lading manure.
The roebuck, or deer, are numerous on this ifland ; the tyger, wolf, and bear, hold yet (bmt polleffion; as alio raccoons, foxes, hares, fquirrels, rats, and mice, but I think no moles. There is a large ground rat, more than twice the fize of the common Norway rat. In the night time it throws out the earth, forming little mounds, or hillocks, opoffums are here in abundance, as alfo polecats, wild-cats, rattle-fnakes, glafs-fnakc, coach-whip fnake, and a variety of other ferpents.
B 4 Here
Here are alfo a great variety of birds, throughout the feafons, inhabiting both fea and land. Firft I fhall name the eagle, of which there are three fpecies. The great grey eagle is the largeft, of great ftrength and high flight ■, he chiefly preys on fawns and other young quadrupeds.
The bald eagle is likewife a large, ftrong, and very active bird, but an execrable tyrant: he fup-ports his aflumed dignity and grandeur by rapine and violence, extorting unreafonable tribute and fubfidy from all the feathered nations.
The laft of this race I fhall mention is the falco pifcatorius, or fifhing-hawk: this is a large bird, of high and rapid flight j h:s wings are very long and pointed, and he fpreads a vaft fail, in proportion to the volume of his body. This princely bird fubfifts entirely on fifh which he takes himfelf, fcorning to live and grow fat on the dear earned labours of another; he alfo contributes liberally to the fupport of the bald eagle.
Water-fowl, and the various fpecies of land-birds, alfo abound, moft of which are mentioned by Catcfby, in his i lift, of Carolina, particularly his painted finch (Kmberiza Ceris Linn.) exceeded by none of the feathered tribes, either in variety and fplendour of drefs, or melody of fong.
Catefby's ground doves are alfo here in abundance: they are remarkably beautiful, about the frze of a fparrow, and their foft and plaintive cooing perfectly enchanting.
How chaflc the dove! '* never known to violate the conjugal
contrail "
She flees the (eats of envy and ftrife, and leeks the retired paths of peace.
The
The fight of this delightful  and productive ifland, placed in front of the rifing city of Sun-bury, quickly induced me to explore it; which I apprehended,' from   former viftts to   this coaft, would  exhibit a comprehenfive epitome of the hiftory of all the fea coaft iflands of Carolina and Georgia, as likewife in general of the coaft of the m.iin. And though I confklered this excurfion along the coaft of Georgia and northern border of Florida, a deviation from the high road of my intended travels, yet 1 performed it in order to employ to the moft advantage the time on my hands, before the treaty of Augufta came on, where I was to attend, about May or June, by defire of the Super-intenciant, J. Stewart, efq. who, when 1 was in Charlefton, propofed, in order to facilitate my travels in the Indian territories, that, if I would be refeiK at the Congrefs, he would introduce my ufinefs to the chiefs of the Cherokees, Creeks, and other nations, and recommend me to their friend-fhip and protection; which promife he fully performed, and it proved of great fervice to me.
Obedient to the admonitions of my attendant fpirit, cuiiofity, as well as to gratify the expectations of my worthy patron, I again fat off on my fouthern excurfion, and left Sunbury, in company with feveral of its polite inhabitants, who were going to Med way meeting, a very large and well contacted place of worfhip, in St. John's parifh, where I affociated with them in religious exercife, and heard a very excellent fermon, delivered by their pious and truly venerable pallor, the Rev.
---. - Ofgood.   This refpectable congregation is
independent, and confift chiefly of families, and
profelytes
profelytcs to a flock, which mis pious man led about forty years ago, from South Carolina, and fettled in this fruitful diitri&.   It is about nine miles from Sunbury to Medway meeting-houfe, which ftands on the high road oppofite the Sun-bury road.   As foon as the congregation broke up, I re-afTumed my travels, proceeding down the high road cowards Fort Barring       on the Alatamaha, palling through a level country, well watered by large ftreams, branches of Medway and Newport rivers, couriing from extenfive fwamps and marines, their  fources:  thefe   fwamps  are daily clearing and improving into large fiuitful rice plantations, aggrandizing the well inhabited and rich diftnct of St. John's parifh.   The road is fttaight, fpacious> and kept in excellent repair by the induilrious inhabitants; and is generally bordered on each fide with a light grove, conMing of the following trees and fhrubs: Myrica Cerifera, Calycanthus, Halefia tetraptera, Itea fiewartia, Andromeda nitida, Cy-rclla racemiflora, entwined with bands and garlands of Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, Lo-nicera fempervirens and Glycene frutefcens; thefe were overfhadowed by tall and fpreading trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora, Liquid ambar, Lirio-dendron, Catalpa, Quercus fempervirens, Quercus dentata, Q^ Phillos; and on the verges of the canals, where   the   road was  caufwaycd, flood the CuprefTus diflicha, Gordonia Lacianthus, and Magnolia glauca, nil planted by nature, and left Handing, by the virtuous inhabitants, to fhade the road, and perfume the fultry air.   The extenfive plantations of rice and corn, now in early verdure, decorated here and there with groves of floriferous and fragrant trees and fhrubs, under the
cover
Cover ami protccTion of pyramidal laurels and plumed palms, which now and then break through upon the fight from both fides of the way as we pafs along; the°eye at intervals Mealing a view at the humble, but elegant and neat habitation, of the happy proprietor," ami'1ft arbours and groves, all day, and moon-light nights, filled with the melody of the cheerful mockbird, warbling nonpareil, and plaintive turtle-dove, altogether prefent a view of magnificence and joy, inexpreftibly charming and animating.
In the evening I arrived at the feat of the Hon. B. Andrews, efq. who received and entertained me in every refpect, as a worthy gentleman could a ftranger, that is, with hearty welcome, plain but plentiful board, free converfation and liberality of fentiments   I fpent the evening very agreeably, and the day following (for I was not permitted to depart fooner): I viewed with pleafure this gentleman's exemplary improvements in agriculture; particularly in the growth of rice, and in his machines for fhelling that valuable grain, which ftands in the water almoft from the time it is fown, until within a few days before it is reaped, when they draw off the water by fluices, which ripens it all at once, and when the heads or panicles are dry ripe, it is reaped and left {landing in the field, in i"mr?ll ricks, until the ftraw is quite dry, when it is hauled, and Hacked in the barn yard.   The machines for cleaning the rice are worked by the force of water. They ftand on the great refervoir which contains the waters that flood the rice fields below.
7'owards the evening we made a little party at fifhing. We chofe a fhaded retreat, in a beautiful grove of magnolias, myrtles, and fweet bay trees,
which
winch were left ftanding on the bank of a fine creek, that, from this place, took a (low fcrpen-tine courfe through the plantation. We prefently took fome fiih, one kind of which is very beau-/ tiful; they call it the red-belly. It is as large as a man's hand, nearly oval and thin, being com pre fled" on each fide; the tail is beautifully formed; the top of the head and back of an olive green, be-fprinkled with ruifet fpecks; the fides of a fea green, inclining to azure, infenfibly blended with the olive above, and beneath lightens to a filvery white, or pearl colour, elegantly powdered with fpecks of the fineft green, rufiet and gold; the belly is of a bright fcarjet red, or vermilion, darting up rays or fiery ftreaks into the pearl on each fide; the ultimate angle of the branchioflega extends backwards with a long fpatula, ending with a round or oval particoloured fpot, representing the eye in the long feathers of a peacock's train, verged round with a thin flame-coloured membrane, and appears like a brilliant ruby fixed on the fide of the fifli; the eyes are large, encircled with a fiery iris; they are a voracious fiih, and are eafily caught with a fuitable bait..
The next morning I took leave of this worthy family, and fat off for the fettlements on the Alatamaha, dill purfuing the high road for Fort Bar-rington, till towards noon, when I turned off to the left, following the road to Darian, a fettlement on the river twenty miles lower down, and near the coaft. The fore part of this day's journey was pleafant, the plantations frequent, and the roads in tolerable good repair; but the country being now lefs cultivated, the roads became bad. I purfued my journey almoft continually through fwamps and creeks, waters of Newport and Sapello, till night,
when
when 1 loft my way; but coming up to a fence, I '   faw a glimmering light, which conducted me to a - houfe, where I flayed all night, and met with very civil entertainment.   Early next morning I fat ofF again, in company with the overfeer of the. farm, who piloted me through a large and difficult fwamp, when we parted ; he in chafe of deer, and I towards Darian.    I rode feveral miles through a high foreft of pines, thinly growing on a level plain, which admitted an ample view, and a free circulation of air, to another fwamp; and crofting a con-fiderable branch of Sapello river, 1 then came1 to a fmall plantation by the fide of another fwamp: the people were remarkably civil and hofpjtable. The man's name was M'littcfh, a family of the firft colony eftablifhed in Georgia, under the conduct of general Oglethorpe.   Was there ever fuch a fcene ofp.imitive SmpUcky, as was here exhibited, fince the days of die good king Tammany! The venerable grey headed Caledonian fmilingly meets me coming up to his houfe.   " Welcome, ftranger; come in, and reft; the air is now very fulcry; it is a very hot day."   1 was there treated with fome excellent veniion, and here found friendly and fecure fhelter from a tremendous thunder liorm, which came up from the N. W. and jfbon after my arrival began to difcharge its fury all around. Stepping to the door to obferve the progrefs and direction of the temped, the fulgour and rapidity of the ftreams of lightning, patting fiom cloud to cloud, and from the clouds to the earth, exhibited a very awful fcene; when inftantly the lightning, as it were, opening a fiery chaim in the black cloud, darted with inconceivable rapidity on the trunk of a large pine tree, that flood thirty or forty yards from me,  and fet it in a blaze.    The flame inftantly 8 afcended
afcended upwards of ten or twelve feer, and continued flaming about fifteen minutes, when it was gradually extmguafhed by the deluges of rain that fell • upon it.
1 faw here a remarkably large turkey of the native wild breed: his head was above three feet from the ground when he flood ere , ; he wa a (lately beautiful bird, of a very -ark dufky brown colour, the tips of the feathers of his neck, breaft, back, and ihovlders, edged with a copper C lour, which in a certain expoftVe looked like burnifhed gold, and he feemed not infcnflble of the fplendid appearance he made, fie was reared from an egg, found in the foreft, and hatched by a hen of the common domeilic fowl.
Our turkey of America is a very different fpecies from the meleagris of Afia and Europe; they are nearly thrice their fize and weight. I have feen feveral that have weighed baween twenty and thirty pounds, and fome have been killed that weighed near forty. I hey are taller, and have a much longer neck proportionally, and likewife longer legs, and ftand more erect; they are alfo very different in colour. Ours are all, male and female, of a dark blown colour, not having a black feather on them; but the male exceedingly fplendid, with changeable colours. In other particulars they differ not.
The tempeft being ever, I waited till the floods of rain had run off the ground, then took leave of my friends, and departed. The air was now coot and falubrious, and liding feven oi eight miles, through a pine foreft, I came to Sapello bridge, to which the fait die flows.   I here flopped, at
Mr.
Mr. Bailey's, to deliver a letter from the governor. This gentleman received me very civilly, inviting me to Hay with him j but upon my urging the ne-ceility of my accelerating my journey, he permitted me to proceed to Mr. L. M'Intofh's, near the river, to whole friendihip I was recommended by Mr. B. Andrews.
Perhaps, to a grateful mind, there is no intellectual enjoyment, which regards human concerns, of a more excellent nature, than the remembrance of real acts of friendihip.   The heart expands at the pleafing recollection.   When I came up to his door, the friendly man, fmiling, and with a grace and dignity peculiar to himfelf, took me by the hand, and accofled me thus: " Friend Bartram, " come under my roof, and I defire you to make my " houfe your home, as long as convenient to your-" felf; remember, from this moment, that you are " a part of my family, and, on my part, I fhall en-" deavonr to make it agreeable," which was verified during my continuance in, and about, the fouthern territories of Georgia and Florida; for I found here fincerity in union with all the virtues, under the influence of religion.   1 fhall yet mention a remarkable inftance of Mr. M'Intofh's friendihip and refpect for me; which was, recommending his eldeft fon, Mr. John M'lntofh, as a companion in my travels.   He was a fenfible virtuous youth, and a very agreeable companion through a long and toil-fome journey of near a thoufand miles.
Having been greatly refrefhed, by continuing a 'few days with this kind and agreeable family, I prepared to profecute my journey foutherly.
CHAP.
CHAP. III.
I sat of? early in the morning for the Indian trading-houfe, in the river St. "Mary, and took the road up the N. E. fide of the Alatamaha to Fort-Barrington. I palled through a well inhabited dif-trict, moflly rice plantations, on the waters of Cathead creek, a branch of the Alatamaha. On drawing near the fort, I was greatly delighted at the appearance of two new beautiful fhrubs, in all their blooming graces. One of them appeared to be a fpecies of Gordonia*, but the flowers are larger, and more fragrant than thofe of the Gordonia Laf-candius, and are fefhle; the feed vefTel is alfo very different. The other was equally diflinguifhed for beauty and fingularityj it grows twelve or fifteen feet high, the branches afcendant and oppofite, and terminate with large panicles of pale blue tubular flowers, fpecked on the infide with crimfon; but, what is lingular, thefe panicles are ornamented with a number of ovate large brafteas, as white, and like fine paper, their tops and verges ftained with a rofe red, which, at a little diftance, has the appearance of duffers of rofes, at the extremities of the limbs: the flowers are of the CI. Pentandria monogynia; the leaves are nearly ovate, pointed and petioled, Handing oppofite to one another on the branches.
After fifteen miles riding, I arrived at the ferry, which is near the fite of the fort. Here is a confi-derable height and bluff on the river, and evident
* FranWini* Alutalunu.
veftigcs
vcftiges of an ancient Indian town may be feen, fuch as old extenfive fields, and conical mounds, or artificial heaps of earth,   I here croffed the river, which is about five hundred yards over, in a good large boat, rowed by a Creek Indian, who was married to a white woman j he feemed an active, civil, and fenlible man.   I law large, tall trees of the Nyfla coccinea, fi. Ogeeche, growing on the banks of the river.   They grow in the. water, near the more.   There is no tree that exhibits a more defirable appearance than this,  in the autumn, when the fruit is ripe, and the tree divefled of its leaves; for then they look as red as fcarlet, with their fruit, which is of that colour alfo.   It is of the fhape, but larger than the olive, containing an agreeable acid juice.   The leaves are oblong lanceolate and entire,  fomewhat hoary underneath; their upper furface of a full green, and fliining; the petioles fhort, pedvmculis multiflOris. The molt northern fettlement of this tree, yet known, is on Great Ogeeche, where they are called Ogeeche limes, from their acid fruit being about the iize of limes, and their being fornetimes ufed in their Head.
Being fafely landed on the oppofite bank, I mounted my horfe, and followed the high road to the ferry on St. Ille, about fixty miles fouth of the Alatamaha, pafiing through an uninhabited wilder-nefs. The fudden tranfition from rich cultivated fettlements, to high pine forefts, dark and graffy favannas, forms in my opinion no difagrecable con-trafts; and the new objects of obfervation in the works of nature foon reconcile the furprifed imagination to the change. As foon as I had loft fight of the river, afcending fome fand-hlUs, x obferved
C a new
x new and. moft beautiful fpecies of Annona, having clufters of large white fragrant flowers; and a diminutive but elegant Kalmia. The Items are very fmall, feeble, and for the moft part undivided, furnithed with little ovate pointed leaves, and terminate with a fimple racemi, or fpike of flowers, falver formed, and of a deep rofe red. The whole plant is ciliated. It growrs in abundance all over the moift favannas, but more efpecially near ponds and bay-fwamps. In fimilar fituations, and commonly a near neighbour to this new Kalmia, is feen a very curious fpecies of Annona. It is very dwarf, the ftems feldom extending from the earth more than a foot or eighteen inches, and are weak and almoft decumbent. The leaves are long, extremely narrow, almoft lineal. However, fmall as they are, they retain the figure common to the fpecies, that is, lanceolate, broadelt at the upper end, and attenuating down to the petiole, which is very fhort; their leaves ftand alternately, nearly erect, forming two feries, or wings, on the arcuated ftems. The flowers, bodi in fize and colour, referable thofe of the Antrilobe, and are fingle from the axilke of the leaves on incurved pedunculi, nodding downwards. I never faw the fruit. The dens, or caverns, dug in the fand-hills, by the great land-tor-toife, called here Gopher *, prefent a very fingular appearance: thefe vaft caves arc their caftles and diurnal retreats, from whence they iffue forth in the night, in fearch of prey. The little mounds, or hillocks of freih earth, thrown up in great numbers in the night, have alfo a curious appearance.
In the evening I arrived at a cow-pen, where
5
* Tcfludu Polyphemus.
there
ri ;>
425303
CP
OC2
there was a habitation, and the people received me Very civilly.   I ftaid here all night, and had for fupper plenty of milk, butter, and very good cheefe of their own make, which is a novelty in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia ; the inhabitants beino- chiefly fupplied with it from Europe and the northern flares.   The next day's progrefe, in general,  prefented fcenes fimilar to the preceding, though the land is lower, more level and humid, and the produce more varied: high open forefts of ftately pines, flowery plains, and extcnfive green favannas, chequered with the incarnate Chironia pulcherrima, and Afclepias fragrans, perfumed the air whilft they pleafed the eye.   I met with fome troublefome cane fwamps,  faw herds of horned cattle, horfes and deer, and took notice of a procumbent fpecies of 1 -Iibifcus, the leaves palmated, the flowers large and expanded, pale yellow and white, having a deep crimfon eye; the whole plant, except the corolla, armed with ftifF hair.   I alfo law a beautiful fpecies of Lupin,  having pale green villous lingulate * leaves; the flowers are difpofed in lon^ erect fpikes; fome plants produce flowers of the fineft celeftial blue, others incarnate, and fome milk white, and though they all three feem to be varieties of one fpecies, yet they afibci-ate in feparace communities, fometimes approaching near each other's border, or in fight at a dif-tance.    Their diftricts are fituated on dry fandy heights, in open pine forefts, .which are naturally thin of undergrowth, and appear to great advantage ; generally, where they are found, they occupy many acres of furface.   The vegetative mould is compofed of fine white fand, mixed, and coloured, with diflblved and calcined vegetable fubftanccs j
* Lupinus breunu, foliis integerimis oblongtl villofis.
C i but
but this flratum is not very deep, and covers one of a tenacious cinereous coloured clay, as we may ob-ferve by the earth adhering to the roots of trees, torn up by ftorms, &c. and by the little chimnies, or air holes of cray-fifb, which perforate the fa van-nas. Turkeys, quails, and fmall birds, are here to be feen ; but birds are not numerous in defert forefts; they draw near to the habitations of men, as I have conftantly obferved in all my travels.
I arrived at St. Ule's in the evening, where I lodged ; and next morning, having crofted over in a ferry boat, fat forward for St. Mary's. The fitua-tion of the territory, its foil and productions, be-tween thefe two laft rivers, are nearly fimilar to thofe which I had palled over, except that the fa-van nas are more frequent and extenfivc.
It may be proper to obferve, that I had now palled the utmoft frontier of the white fettlements oji that border. It was drawing on towards the clofe of day, the Ikies ferene and calm, the air temperately cool, and gentle zephyrs breathing through the fragrant pines; the profpeel around enchant-ingly varied and beautiful; endlefs green favannas, chequered with coppices of fragrant fhrubs, filled the air with the richeft perfume. The gaily attired plants which enamelled the green had begun to imbibe the pearly dew of evening; nature feem-ed filent, and nothing appeared to ruffle the happy moments of evening contemplation; when, on a fudden, an Indian appeared crofting the path, at a confiderable diftance before me. On perceiving that he was armed with a rifle, the firft fight of him ftartled me, and I endeavoured to elude his fight, by (tapping my pace, and keeping large trees between us; but he efpied me, and turning fhort
about.
about, fat fpurs to his horfe, and came up on full gallop.   I never before this was afraid at the fight Of an Indian, but at this time, 1 muft own that my fpirits were very much agitated: I faw at once, that being unarmed, I was in his power; and having now but a few moments to prepare, I refigned myfelf entirely to the will of the Almighty, truft-ing to his mercies for my prefervation : my mind then became tranquil, and I refolved to meet the dreaded foe with refolution and chearful confidence.   The intrepid Siminole flopped fuddenly, three or four yards before me, and iilently viewed me, his countenance angry and fierce, lhifting his rifle from Ihoulder to fhoulder, and looking about inftantly on all fides,   I advanced towards him, and with an air of confidence offered him my hand, hailing him, brother;  at this he nattily jerked back his arm, with a look of malice, rage, and dif-dain, feeming every way difcontented; when again looking at me more attentively, he inftantly fpurred up to me, and with dignity in his look and action, gave me his hand.   Poliibly the filcnt language of his foul, during the moment of fufpenfe (for I believe his defign was to kill me when he firft came up) was after this manner: " White man, thou " art my enemy, and thou and thy brethren may " have killed mine; yet it may not be fo, and even " were that the cafe, thou art now alone, and in " my power.   Live; the Great Spirit forbids me " to touch thy life; go to thy brethren, tell them * thou iaweft an Indian in the forefts, wdio knew <c how to be humane arid companionate."   In line, we fliook hands, and parted in a friendly manner, in the midft of a dreary wildernefs; and he informed me of the courfe and diftance to the traditig-Jwuife, where I found he had been extremely ill-treated the day before.
C 3 I now
I now fat forward again, and after eight or ten miles riding, arrived at the banks of St. Mary's, oppofite the ftores, and got fife over before dark. The river is here about one hundred yards acrofs, has ten feet water, and, following its courfe, about fixty miles to the fea, though but about twenty miles by land. The trading company here received and treated me with great civility. On relating my adventures on the road, particularly the laft with the Indian, the chief replied, with a countenance that at once befpoke furprife and pleafure, u My friend, confider yourfelf a fortunate man: " that fellow," faid he, " is one of the greateft vil-" lains on earth, a noted murderer, and outlawed " by his countrymen. Laft evening he was here, " we took his gun from him, broke it in pieces, " and gave him a fevere drubbing: he, however, " made his efcape, carrying off a new rifle gun, " with which, he faid, going off, he would kill " the firft white man he met."
On ferioufly contemplating the behaviour of this Indian towards me, fo foon after his ill treatment, the following train of fentiments infenfibly crowded in upon my mind.
Can it be denied, but that the moral principle, which directs the favages to virtuous and praife-worthy actions, is natural or innate ? It is certain they have not the afTiftance of letters, or thofe means of education in the fchools of philofophy, where the virtuous fentiments and actions of the moft illuftrious characters are recorded, and carefully laid before the youth of civilized nations: therefore this moral principle muft be innate, or they muft be under the immediate influence and guidance of a more divine and powerful preceptor,
who,
who, on thefe occafions, inftantly infpires them, and as with a ray of divine light, points out to them at once the dignity, propriety, and beauty of virtue.
The land on, and adjacent to, this river, not-withftanding its arenaceous furface, appears naturally fertile?  The peach trees are large, healthy, and fruitful; and Indian corn, rice, cotton, and indigo,  thrive exceedingly.    This fandy furface, one would fuppofe, from its loofe texture, would pofTefs a percolating quality, and fuller the rainwaters quickly to drain off; but it is quite the contrary, at leaft in thefe low maritime fandy countries of Carolina and Florida, beneath the moun-tains; for in the fands, even the heights, where the arenaceous ftratum is perhaps five, eight, and ten feet above the clay, the earth, even in the longeft droughts, is moift an inch or two under the furface; whereas, in the rich tenacious low lands, at fuch times, the ground is dry, and, as it were, baked many inches, and lometimes fome feet deep, and the crops, as well as almoft all vegetation, fuffer in fuch foils and fituations.   The reafon of this may be, that this kind of earth admits more freely of a tranfpiration of vapours, arifing from interline watery canals to the furface; and probably thefe vapours are impregnated with faline or nitrous principles, friendly and nutritive to vegetables; however, ot thefe caufes and fecret operations of nature I am ignorant, and rename again my proper employment, that of difcovering and collecting data for the exercife of more able phyfiologifts.
The favannas about St. Mary's, at this feafon, display a very charming appearance of flowers and verdure; their more elevated borders are varied
C 4 with
with beds of violets, lupins, Amaryllis atamafco, and plants of a new and very beautiful fpecies of Mimofa fenfkiva, which I think as admirable and more charming than the celebrated Mumble p1ant, equally chafte and fearful of the halty touch of the furprifed admirer. The flower is larger, of a bright damaflfi rofe colour, and exceedingly fragrant: the whok- plant is deftitute of prickles, but hairy: it is procumbent,  reclining itfelf upon the green turf, and from thefe trailing branches proceeds an upright peduncle, fix or eight inches high, fupporting an oblong head of flowerets, which altogether, at a fmall diftance, have the appearance of an exuberant field of clover;  and, what is lingular, and richly varies  the   fcene,  there are interfperfed patches of the fame fpecies of plants, having flowers of the finefl golden yellow, and others ihow white; but the incarnate is molt prevalent. Magnolia glauca, I tea Clethra, Chionanthus, Gordonia lafi-ahthus, Ilex anguftifolium, Olea Americana, Ho-pea tinctoria, &c. are feated in detached groves or clumps, round about the ponds or little lakes, at the lower end of the favannas.    I obferved, growing on the banks of this fequeflered river, the following trees and fhrubs: Quercus fempervirens, Q^ aquatica, Q^ Phillos, Q^ dentata, Nylfa aquati-ca, N.fylvatica, N. Ogeeche, fi. coccinea, Cupreff-us diflicha, Fraxinus aquatica, Rhamnus frangula, Piunus laurocerafa,  Cyrilla raceminora, Myrica cerifera, Andromeda ferruginia, Andr. nitida, and the great evergreen Andromeda of Florida, called Pipe-ftem Wood, to which I gave the name of Andromeda formofifTima, as it far exceeds in beauty every one of this family.
The river St. Mary has its fource from a vaft lake, or mai fh, called Ouaquaphenogaw, which lies
between
between Flint and Qakmulge rivers, and occupies a (pace of near three hundred miles in circuit. This vaft accumulation of waters, in the wet feafon, appears as a lake, and contains fome large iflands or knolls, of rich high land; one of which the prefent generation of the Creeks reprefent to be a moft blifstul (pot of the earth: they fay it is inhabited by a peculiar race of Indians, whofe women are incomparably beautiful; they alfo tell you that this terreftrial paradile has been feen by fome of their enterprifing hunters, when in purfuit of game, who being loft in inextricable fwamps and bogs, and on the point of periftiing, were unexpectedly relieved by a company of beautiful women, whom they call daughters of the fun, who kindly gave them fuch provifions as they had with them, which were chiefly fruit, oranges, dates, &c. and lome corn cakes, and then enjoined them to fly for fafery to their own country;  for that their hufbands were fierce men, and cruel to ftrangers: they further lay, that thefe hunters had a view of their fettle -ments, lituated on the elevated banks of an ifland, or promontory, in a beautiful lake; but that in their endeavours to approach it, they were involved in perpetual labyrinths, and, like enchanted land, ftill as they imagined they had juft gained it> it feemed to fly before them, alternately appearing and difappearing.   They refolved, at length, to leave the delufive purfuit, and to return; which, after a number of inexpreflible difficulties, they effected.   When they reported their adventures to their countrymen, their young warriors were en-flamed with an irrefiftible defire to invade, and make a conqueft of, fo charming a country; but all their attempts hitherto have proved abortive, never having been able again to find that, enchanting
chanting fpot, nor even any road or pathway to it; yet they fay that they frequently meet with certain iigns of its being inhabited, as the building of canoes, footfteps of men, Sec.   They tell another ftory concerning the inhabitants of this feqiuftcred country, which feems probable enough, which is, that they are the pofterity of a fugitive remnant of the ancient Yamafes, who efcaped maffacre after a bloody and decifive conflict between them and the Creek nation (who, it is certain, conquered, and nearly exterminated, that once powerful people), and here found an afylum, remote and fecure from, the fury of their proud conquerors.   It is, however, certain that there is a vaft lake, or drowned fwamp, well known, and often vi freed both by white and Indian hunters, and on its environs the moft valuable hunting grounds in Florida, well worth contending for, by thofe powers whofe territories border upon it.   From this great fource of rivers *, St. Mary arifes, and meanders through a vaft plain and pine foreft, near an hundred and fifty miles to the ocean, with which it communicates, between the points of Amelia and Talbert iflands; the waters flow deep and gently down from its fource to the fea.
Having made my obfervations on the vegetable productions of this part of the country, and obtained fpecimens and feeds of fome curious trees and fhrubs (which were the principal objects of this excurfion) I returned by the fame road to the Alatamaha, and arrived fate again at the feat of my good friend, L. M'Jntofh, hiq. where I tarried a few days to reft and refrefh myfelf, and to wait for
* Sr.mre of rivers. It is {Vid, thai St. Illc, Sr. Mary, and the beautiful river Little St. Juan, which difcharges it:, wrattfs into the bay of Apalac hi, at Sr. Mark's, take their rite from this fwamp.
my
my young companion and fellow pilgrim, Mr. John M'Intofh, who, being fond of the enterprife, had been fo active during my abfence, in the necelfary preparations, that we had nothing to wait for now but Mrs. M'lntofh's final confent to give up her fon to the perils and hardfhips of lb long a journey; which difficult point being fettled, we fet off with the prayers and benevolent wiihes of my companion's worthy parents.
CHAP.
C HAP. IV.
Early in the morning, we mounted our horfes, and in two days arrived in Savanna; here we learned that the fuperintendant of Indian affairs had left the capital, and was on his way to Augufta. I remained but one day in Savanna, which was employed in making up and forwarding the collections for Charlefton.
The day following we fet off for Augufta, which is on Savanna river, at leaft an hundred and fifty miles by land from the capital, and about three hundred by water. We followed the courfe of the river, and arrived there after having had a prof-perous journey, though a little incommoded by the heats of the feafon.
As nothing very material occurred on the road, I fliall proceed to give a fummary account of the obfervations I made concerning the foil, fttuation, and natural productions of the country.
In our progrefs from the fea coaft, we rife gradually, by feveral fteps or afcents, in the following manner : Firft, from the fea-coaft, fifty miles back, is a level plain, generally of a loofc fandy foil, producing fpacious high forefts, of Pinus titda, P. lutea, P, fquarrofil, P. echinata, i. Quercus fempervirens, i. Quercus aquatica, 3. Q^ phillos, 4. Q^ tinctoria, 5. Q^dentata, 6. Q. prinos, 7. Q^ alba, 8. Q^ finuata,  9. Q^ rubra, Liriodendron tuli-
1. Live Oak. 2. Dclla-Uavc.l Water Oak. 3. Willow-leaved Oak. 4. Great Black Oak. 5. Narrow leaved Wintergreen Oak. 6. Swamp White Oak. 7. White Oak.   8. Spanilh Oak.   9. Red Oak.
pifera,
pifera,   Ijquidambar   ftyraciflua,   Morus rubra, Cercis tilia, Populus heterophylla, Platanus occi-dcntalis,  Laurus faflafras, Laurus Borbonia, Ho-pea tinctoria, Fraxinus excelfior, NyfTa, Ulmus, Juglans cxakata, Halefa, Stewartia.   Nearly one third of" this vaft plain is what the inhabitants call fwamps, which are the fources of numerous fmall rivers and their branches: thefe they call Lilt rivers, becaufe the tides flow near to their fources, and generally carry a good depth and breadth of water for fmall craft, twenty or thirty miles upwards from the fea, when they branch and fpread abroad like an open hand, interlocking with each other, and forming a chain of fwamps acrofs the Carolina? and Georgia, feveral hundred miles parallel with the fea coaft.   Thefe fwamps are fed and replenilhed conftantly by an infinite number of rivulets and rills, which fpring out of the firft bank or afcent: their native trees and fhrubs are, befides moft of thofe already enumerated above, as follow: Acer rubrum, Nyffa aquatica, Chionanthus, Celtis, Fagus fylvatica, Sarvibricus; and the higher knolk afford beautiful clumps of Azalea nuda and Azalea vifcofa, Corypha palma, Corypha pumila, and Magnolia grandiflora; befides, the whole furface of the ground between the trees and fhrubs appear to be occupied with canes (Anindo gigantea) entangled with feftoons of the floriferous Glycine frutefcens, Bignonia fempervirens, Glycine apios, Smilax, various fpecies, Bignonia crucigera, Bigri, radicans, Lonicera fempervirens, and a multitude of other trees, fhrubs, and plants lets confpicuous; and, in very wet places, Cuprefius difticha.   The upper foil of thefe fwamps is a perfectly black, for.py, rich earth, or ftiff mud, two or three feer deep, on a foundation or ftratum. of calcareous Tofiil,
which
which the inhabitants call white marie; and]this is die heart or ftrength of thefe fwamps: they never wear out or become poor, but, on the contrary, are more fertile by tillage; for when they turn up this white marie, the air and winter frofts caufing it to fall like quicklime, it manures the furface: but it has one difadvantage, that is, in great droughts, when they cannot have water fufficient in their re-fervoirs to lay the furface of the ground under water, it binds, and becomes fo tough as to burn and kill the crops, efpecially the old cleared lands; as, while it was freih and new, the great quantity of rotten wood, roots, leaves, tkc. kept the furface loofe and open. Severe droughts feldom happen near the fea coaft.
Wc now rife a bank of confiderable height, which runs nearly parallel to the coaft, through Carolina and Georgia: the afcent is gradual by feveral flights or fteps, for eight or ten miles, the perpendicular height whereof, above the level of the ocean, may be two or three hundred feet (and thefe are called the fand-hills), when we find ourfelves on the entrance of a vaft plain, generally level, which extends weft fixty or feventy miles, rifing gently as the former, but more perceptibly. This plain is moft-ly a f ireft of the great long-leaved pine (P. paluftris Linn.) the earth covered with grafs, interfperfed with an infinite variety of herbaceous plants, and embellifhed with extenfive favannas, always green, fparkling with ponds of water, and ornamented with clumps of evergreen, and other trees and fhrubs, as Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia glauca, Gordonia, lllcx aquifolium, Quercus, various fpecies, Laurus Borbonia, Chionanthus, Hopea tin ria, Cyrilla, Kalmia anguftifolia, Androfllfi
rieties,
ri cries, Viburnum, Azalea, Rhus vernix, Prinos, varieties, Fothergiila, and a new fhrub of great beauty and iingularity:  it grows erect, feven or eight'feet high; a multitude of erect ftems arife from its root; thefe divide themfelves into afeend-ant branches, which are garniihed with abundance of narrow lanceolate obtufe pointed leaves, of a light green, fmooth and mining.   1 hefe branches, with their many fubdiviiions, terminate in iimple racemes of pale incarnate Bowers, which make a fine appearance among the leaves; the flowers are lucceeded by deficcated triquetrous pericarpi, each containing a fingle kernel.
The low eft fides of thefe favannas are generally joined by a great cane fwamp, varied with coppices and hommocks of the various trees and fhrubs already mentioned.   In thefe fwamps feveral rivulets take their rife, which drain them and the adjoining favannas,  and thence  meandering:  to  the rivers through the forefts, with their br.nks decorated with ihrubs and trees.   The earth under this level plain may be defcribtd after the following manner: the upper furface, or vegetative mould, is a light fandy loam, generally nine inches or a foot deep, on a ftrarum of cinereous coloured clay, except the fand-hills, where rhe loofe fandy furface is much deeper upon the clay; ftone of any fort, or gravel, is feklom feen.
The next afcent, or flight, is of much greater and more abrupt elevation, and continues riling by-broken ridges and narrow levels, or vales, for ten or fifteen miles, when we reft again on another ex^enfive nearly level plain of pine forefts, mixed vim various other foreft trees, which continues weft forty or fifty miles farther, and exhibits much
the
the fame appearance with the great foreft laft mentioned; its vegetable productions nearly the fame, excepting that the broken ridges by which we af-cend to the plain are of a better foil; the vegetative mould is mixed with particles of clay and fmall gravel, and the foil of a duiky brown colour, lying on a ftratum of reddifh brown tough clay. The-: trees and ihnibs are, Pinus taeda, great black Oak, Quercus tinctoria, Q^rubra, Laurus, SafTafras, Magnolia grandiflora, Cornus Florida, Cercis, Halefia, Juglans acuminata, Juglans exaltata, Andromeda arborea: and, by the fides of rivulets (which wind about and between thefe hills and fwamps, in the vales) Styrax latifolia, Ptelea trifoliata, Stewartia, Calycanthus, Chionanthus, Magnolia tripctahi, A zalea, and others.
Thus have I endeavoured to give the reader a jfhort and natural defcription of the vaft plain lying between the region of Augufta and the fea coaft; for from Augufta the mountainous country begins (when compared to the level fandy plain already pafled), although it is at leaft an hundred and fifty miles weft, thence to the Cherokee or Apalachean mountains; and this fpace may with propriety bev called the hilly country, every where fertile and delightful, continually replenillied by innumerable rivulets, either courting about the fragrant hills, or fpringing from the rocky, precipices, and forming many cafcades; the coolneis and purity of which waters invigorate the air of this otherwife hot and fultry climate.
The village of Augufta is fituated on a rich and fertile plain, on the Savanna river; the buildings are near its banks, and extend nearly two miles up to the cataracts, or falls, which are formed by the
firft
firft chain of rocky hills, through which this famous river forces itfelf, as if impatient to repofe on the extcniive plain before it invades the ocean. Vv hen the river is low, which is during the fummer months, the cataracts are four or five feet in height acrofs the river, and die waters continue rapid and broken, rufhing over rocks five miles higher up: this river is near live hundred yards broad at Augufta.
A few days after our arrival at Augufta, the chiefs and warriors of the Creeks and Cherokees being arrived, the Congrefs and the bufinefs of the treaty came on, and the negociations continued undetermined many days; the merchants of Georgia demanding at leaft two millions of acres of land from the Indians, as a difcharge of their debts, due, and of long (landing:  the Creeks, on the other hand,  being a powerful and proud fpirited people, their young warriors were unwilling to fub-mit to fo large a demand, and their conduct evidently betrayed a difpofition to difpute the ground by force of arms, and they could not at firft be brought to liften to reafon and amicable terms; however, at length, the cool and deliberate coun-fels of the ancient venerable chiefs, enforced by liberal prefents of fuitable goods, were too powerful  inducements  (or  them  any  longer to refill,  and finally prevailed.   The treaty concluded  in unanimity, peace, and good order; and the honourable fuperintendant, not forgetting his promife to me, at the conclufion, mentioned my bufinefs, and recommended me to the protection of the Indian chiefs and warriors.   The prefents being distributed amongft the Indians, they departed, returning home to their towns.   A company of fur-
D veyors
veyors were appointed, by the governor and council, to afcertain the boundaries of the new pur-chafe; they were to be attended by chiefs of the Indians, felected and delegated by their countrymen, to aflift, and be witnefXes that the articles of the treaty were fulfilled, as agreed to by both parties in Congrefs,
Col. Barnet, who was chofen to conduct this bufinefs on the part of the Georgians, a gentleman every way qualified for that important truft, in a very friendly and obliging manner, gave me an invitation to accompany him on this tour.
It was now about the middle of the month of May; vegetation, in perfection, appeared with all her attractive charms, breathing fragrance every where; the atmofphere was now animated with the efficient principle of vegetative life; the arbultive hills, gay lawns, and green meadows, which on every fide invert the villa of Augufta, had already received my frequent vifits; and although here much delighted with the new beauties in the vegetable kingdom, and many eminent ones have their fequeftered refidence near this place, yet, as I was never long fatisfied with prefent poiTeflion, however endowed with every poflible charm to attract the fight, or intrinfic value to engage and fix the etteem, I was reftlefs to be fearching for more, my curiofity being infatiable.
Thus it is with regard to our affections and attachments, in the more important and interefting concerns of human life.
Upon the rich rocky hills at the cataracts of Au-guita, I firft obferved the perfumed rhododendron
ferrugineum,
ferrugineum, white-robed philadelphus inodorus, and cerulean malva; but nothing in vegetable nature was more pleafing than the odoriferous pancratium fluitans, which almoft alone poffefles the little rocky iftets which juft appear above the water,
The preparatory bufinefs of the furveyors being now accomplifhed, Mr. J. M'Intofh, yet anxious for travelling, and defirous to accompany me on this tour, joined with me the caravan, confifting of furveyors, aftronomers, artifans, chain-carriers, markers, guides, and hunters, befides a very refpectable number of gentlemen, who joined us, in order to fpeculate in the lands, together with ten or twelve Indians, altogether to the number of eighty or ninety men, all or moft of us well mounted on horfeback, befides twenty or thirty pack-horfes, loaded with provifions, tents, and camp equipage.
The fummer feafon now rapidly advancing, die air at mid-day, about this region, was infufferably hot and fultry.   We fat off from Augufta, early in the morning, for the Great Buffalo Lick, on the Great Ridge, which feparates the waters of the Savanna and Alatamaha, about eighty miles diftant from Augufta.   At this Lick the furveyors were to feparate themfelves, and form three companies, to proceed on different routes.   On the evening of the fecond day's journey, we arrived at a fmall village on Little River, a branch of the Savanna: this village, called Wrightfborough, was founded by Jof. Mattock, efq., of the feci: called quakers. This public fpirited man having obtained for himfelf and his followers a diftrict., comprehending upwards of forty thoufand acres of land, gave the new town this name, in honour of fir James Wright, then governor of Georgia, who greatly promoted D 2 the
the efiablill-inicnt of the fettlement. Mr. Mattock, who is now about feventy years of age, healthy and active, and prefides as chief magillrate of the fettlement, received us with great hofpitality. The diftance from Augufta to this place is about thirty miles; the face of the country is chiefly a plain of high forefts, favannas, and cane fwamps, until we approach Little River, when the landfcape varies prefenting to view high hills and rich vales. The foil is a deep, rich, dark mould, on a deep ftratum of reddifh brown tenacious clay, and that on a foundation of rocks which often break through both ftrata, lifting their backs above the furface. The foreft trees are chiefly of. the deciduous order, as, quercus tinctoria, q. laciniata, q. alba, q. rubra, q. prinus, with many other fpecies; celtis, fagus fylvatica, and, on the rocky hills, figus caftanea, fag. pumila, quercus caftanca; in the rich vales, juglans nigra, jug. cinerea, gleditfia triacanthos, magnolia acuminata, liriodendron, platanus, fraxi-nus excclfior, cercea, juglans exaltata, carpinus, morus rubra, calycanthus, halefia, ajfculus pavia, refc. arborea.
Leaving the pleafant town of Wrightfborough we continued eight or nine miles through a fertile plain and high foreft, to the north branch of Little River, being the largeft of the two, crofting which, we entered an extenfive fertile plain, bordering on the river, and fhaded by trees of vaft growth, which at once fpoke its fertility. Continuing fome time through thefe fhady groves, the fcene opens, and difclofcs to view the moft magnificent foreft I had ever feen. We role gradually a Hoping bank of twenty or thirty feet elevation, and immediately entered this fublime foreft.  The ground is perfectly
a level
a level green plain, thinly planted by nature with the moft ftately foreft trees, fuch as the gigantic black * oak (q. tinftoria), liriodendron, juglans nigra, platanus, juglans exaltata, fagus fylvatica, ulmus  fylvatica,   liquidambar  ftyracitiua, whofc mighty trunks, feemingly of an equal height, appeared like fuperb columns.   To keep within the bounds of truth and reality, in defcribing the magnitude and grandeur of thefe trees, would, I fear, fail of credibility; yet, I think 1 can aifert, that many of the black oaks meafured eight, nine, ten, and eleven feet diameter five feet above the ground, as we meafured feveral that were above thirty feet girt, and from hence they afcend perfectly ftraight, with a gradual taper,  forty or fifty feet to the limbs; but, below five or fix feet, thefe trunks would meafure a third more in circumference, on account of the projecting jambs, or fupports, which are more or lefs, according to the number of horizontal roots that they arife from: the tulip tree, liquidambar, and beech, were equally ftately.
Not far diftant from the terrace, or eminence, overlooking the low grounds of the river, many very magnificent monuments of the power and induftry of the ancient inhabitants of thefe lands are vifible. I obferved a ftupendous conical pyramid, or artificial mount of earth, vaft tetragon terraces, and a large funken area, of a cubical form, cncompalTed with banks of earth; and certain traces of a larger Indian town, the work of a powerful nation, whole period of grandeur perhaps long preceded the difcovci y of this continent.
* Gigantic Hack oak. Querc. tincloria; the bark of this fpecies of oak if found to afford a valuable ycllaw dye. This tree is known by the name ut hjackoak in PointyKania, New-Jcrfey, New-York, and New-England.
D 3 After
After about feven miles progrefs through this foreft of gigantic black oaks, we enter on territories which exhibit more varied fcenes: the land rifes almoft infenfibly by gentle afcents, exhibiting defart plains high forefts, gravelly and ftony ridges, ever in fight of rapid rivulets j the foil, as already defcribed. We then paffed over large rich favannas, or natural meadows, wide fpreading cane fwamps, and frequently old Indian fettlements, now deferted and overgrown with forefts. Thefe are always on or near the banks of rivers, or great fwamps, the artificial mounts and terraces elevating them above the furrounding groves. I obferved, in the ancient cultivated fields, 1. diofpy-ros, 1. gleditfia triacanthos, 3. prunus chicafaw, 4. callicarpa, 5. morus rubra, 6. juglans exaltata, 7. juglans nigra, which inform us, that thefe trees were cultivated by the ancients, on account of their fruit, as being wholefome and nouriihing food. Though thefe are nativesof die foreft*, yet they thrive better, and are more fruitful, in cultivated plantations, and the fruit is in great eftimation with the prefent generation of Indians, particularly juglans exaltata, commonly called ftiell-barkcd hiccory. The Creeks ftore up the laft in their towns. I have feen above an hundred bufhels of thefe nuts belonging to one family. They pound them to pieces, and then eaft them into boiling water, which, after palling through fine ftrainers, preferves the moft oily part of the liquid: this they call by a name which fignifies hiccory milk; it is as fweet and rich as frefh cream, and is an ingredient in moft of their cookery, efpecially homony and corn cakes.
* The Chicafaw plumb I think mull be excepted, for though certainly .-» native of America, yet I never faw it wild in the forefts, but always in oU deferred Indian plantations: T fuppole it to have been brought fvwn tfw S. W. lyyoi;.: the Mil/uipp't, by the Chicafawi.
After
After four days moderate and pleafant travelling, we arrived in the evening at the Buffalo Lick. This extraordinary place occupies feveral acres of ground, at the foot of the S. E. promontory of the Great Ridge, which, as before obferved, divides the rivers Savanna and Alatamaha.   A large cane fwamp and meadows, forming an immenfe plain, lie S. E. from it; in this fwamp J believe the head branches of the great Ogeeche river take their rife. The place called the Lick contains three or four acres, is nearly level, and lies between the head of the cane fwamp and the afcent of the Ridge. The earth, from the fuperficies to an unknown depth, is an almoft white or cinereous coloured tenacious fattiih clay, which all kinds of cattle lick into great caves, purfuing the delicious vein.   It is the common opinion of the inhabitants, that this clay is impregnated with faline vapours, arifing from foflile falts deep in the earth; but I could difcover nothing faline in its tafte, but 1 imagined an infipid fweet-nefs.   Horned cattle, horfes, and deer, are immoderately fond of it, infomuch, that their excrement, which almoft totally covers the earth to fome distance round this place, appears to be perfect clay; which, when dried by the fun and air, is almoft as hard as brick.
We were detained at this place one day, in ad-j lifting and planning the feveral branches of the furvey, A circumftance occurred during this time, which was a remarkable inftance of Indian faga-city, and had nearly difconcerted all our plans, and put an end to the bufinefs. The furveyOr having fixed his compafs on the ftaff, and being about to afcer-tain the courfe from our place of departure, which was to ftrike Savanna river at the confluence of a certain river, about feventy miles diftance from us;
D 4 lu(J
AO •    TRAVELS IN '
juft as he had determined upon the point, the Indian" chief came up, and obferving the courfe he had fixed upon, fpoke, and faid it was not right; but that the courfe to the place was fo and fo, holding up his hand, and pointing. The furveyor replied, that he himfelf was certainly right, adding, that that little inftrument (pointing to the convpafs) told him fo, which, he faid, could not err. The Indian anfwered, he knew better, and that the little wicked inftrument was a liar; and he would not ac-quiefce in its decifions, fince it would wrong the Indians out of their land. This miibke (the furveyor proving to be in the wrong) difpleafed the Indians; the difpute arofe to that height, that the chief and his party had determined to break up the bufinefs, and return the fhorteft way home, and forbad the furveyors to proceed any farther: however, after fome delay, the complaifance and prudent conduct of the colonel made them change their relblution; the chief became reconciled, upon condition that the compafs ihould be difcarded, and rendered incapable of ferving on this bufinefs; that the chief himfelf mould lead the furvey; and, moreover, receive an order for a very conliderable quantity of goods.
Matters being now amicably fettled, under this new regulation, the colonel having detached two companies on feparate routes, Mr, M'lntofh and myfelf attaching ourfelves to the colonel's party, whofe. excurfion was likely to be the moft extenfive and varied, we fit off from the Buffalo Lick, and the Indian chief, heading the party, conducted us on a ftraight line, as appeared by collateral obfer-vation, to the defired place. We purfued nearly a north courfe up the Great Ridge, until we came near the branches of Broad River, when we turned
off
off to the right hand, and encamped on a confi-derable branch of it. At this place we continued almoft a whole day, conftituting furveyors and aftronomers, who were to take the courfe, diftance, and obfervations on Broad River, and from thence down to its confluence with the Savanna.
The Great Ridge conflfts of a continued high foreft j the foil fertile, and broken into moderately elevated hills, by the many rivulets which have their fources in it.   The heights and precipices abound in rock and ftone.   The foreft trees and other vegetable productions are the fame as already mentioned about Little River: I obferved hale-fia, ftyrax, aefculus pavia, adc. fylvatica, robinia hifpida, magnolia acuminata, mag. tripetala, and fome very curious new fhrubs and plants, particularly the phyfic-nut, or Indian olive.   The ftems arile many from a root, two or three feet high; the leaves fit oppofite, on very ftiort petioles; they are broad, lanceolate, entire, and undulated, having fmooth furfaces of a deep green colour. From the bofom of each leaf is produced a fingle oval drupe, Handing erect, on long flender ftems; it has a large kernel, and thin pulp.   The fruit is yellow when ripe, and about the frze of an olive. 1 he Indians, when they go in purfuit of deer, carry this fruit with them, fuppofing that it has the power of charming or drawing that creature to them; from whence, with the traders, it has obtained the name of the phyfic-nut, which means, with .them,  charming,  conjuring, or fafcinating. malva fcandens, filix fcandens, perhaps a fpecies of trichomanes; the leaves are palmated, or radiated; it climbs and roves about, on fhrubs, in moift ground.   A very Angular and elegant plant, of an
unknown
unknown family, called Indian lettuce, made its firft appearance in thefe rich vales; it is a biennial ; the primary or radical leaves are fomewhat fpatuled, or broad, lanceolate, and obtuie pointed, of a pale yellowiih green, fmooth furface, and of a delicate frame, or texture; thefe leaves fpread equally on every fide, almoft reclining on the ground; from their centre arifes a ftraight upright ftem, five, fix, or feven feet high, fmooth and polifhed; the ground of a dark purple colour, which is elegantly powdered with greenifh yellow fpecks; the ftem, three-fourths of its length, is cmbellifhed with narrow leaves, nearly of the fame form with the radical ones, placed at regular diftances, in verticilate order. The fuperior one-fourth divifion of this ftem is formed into a pyramidal fpikc of flowers, rather diffufe; thefe flowers are of the hexandria, large, and expanded; of a dark purple colour, delicately powdered with green, yellow, and red, and divided into fix parts, or petals; thefe are fucceeded by triquetrous dry pericarpi, when ripe.
This great ridge is a vaft extended projection of the Cherokee or Alegany mountains, gradually in-creafing in height and extent, from its extremity at the Lick, to its union with the high ridge of mountains anciently called the Apalachian mountains ; it every where approaches much nearer the waters of the Alatamaha than thofe of the Savanna, At one particular place, where we encamped, on the Great Ridge, during our repofe there part of a day, our hunters going out, underftanding that their route was to the low lands on the Ocone, I accompanied them: we had not rode above three miles before we came to the banks of that beautiful river. The cane fwamps, of immenfe extent, and the oak forefts, on the level lands,
are.
are incredibly fertile; which appears from the tall reeds of the one, and the heavy timber of the other.
Before we left the waters of Broad River, having encamped in the evening on one of its confiderable branches, and left my companions, to retire, as ufual, on botanical refearches, on afcending a fteep rocky hill, I accidentally difcovered a new fpecies of ca-ryophyilata (geum odoratiflimum); on reaching to a fhrub my foot flipped, and, in recovering myfelf, I tore up fome of the plants whole roots filled the air with animating fcents of cloves and fpicy perfumes.
On my return towards camp, I met my philo-fophic companion, Mr. M'lntofh, who was feated on the bank of a rivulet, and whom I found highly entertained by a very novel and curious natural exhibition, in which I participated with high relifti. The waters at this place were ftill and fhoal, and flowed over a bed of gravel juft beneath a rocky rapid: in this eddy fhoal were a number of little gravelly pyramidal hills, whole fummits rofe almoft to the furface of the water, very artfully conftruct:-cd by a fpecies of fmall cray-fiih (cancer macrou-rus) which inhabited them: here feemed to be their citadel, or place of retreat for their young againll the attacks and ravages of their enemy, the gold-fifh: thefe, in numerous bands, continually infefted them, except at fhort intervals, when fmall detachments of veteran cray-fifh fallied out upon them, from their cells within the gravelly pyramids, at which time a brilliant fight prefented : the little gold fiih inftantly fled from every fide, darting through the tranfparent waters like ftreams of lightning; fome even fprang above the furface, into the air, but all quickly returned to the charge, furround-ing the pyramids as before, on the retreat of the
cray-
cray-fiill; in this manner the war fee tried to be continual.
The gold-fifh is about the fize of the anchovy, nearly four inches long, of a neat (lender form; the head is covered with a falade of an ultramarine blue, the back of a reddilh brown, the fides and belly of a flame, or of die colour of a fine red lead; a narrow dufky line runs along each fide, from the gills to the tail; the eyes are large, with the iris like burnifhed gold. This branch of Broad River is about twelve yards wide, and has two, three, and four feet depth of water, and winds through a fertile vale, almoft overfhadowed on one fide by a ridge of high hills, well timbered widi oak, hiccory, liriodendron, magnolia acuminata, pavia fylvatica, and on their rocky fummits, fagus cafta-nea rhododendron ferrugineum, kalmia latifolia, cornus Florida, &c.
One of our Indian young men, this evening, caught a very large falmon trout, weighing about fifteen pounds, which he prefented to the colonel, who ordered it to be ferved up for fupper. The Indian ftruck this fifh, with a reed harpoon, pointed very ftiarp, barbed, and hardened by the fire. The fifh lay clofe under the fteep bank, which the Indian difcovered and ftruck with his reed ; inftantly the fifh. darted off with it, whilft the Indian purfued, without extracting die harpoon, and with repeated ihrufts drowned it, and then dragged it to Ihore.
After leaving Broad River, the land riles very fenlibly, and the country being mountainous, our progrefs became daily more difficult and flow j yet the varied fcenes of pyramidal hills, high forefts, rich vales, terpentine rivers, and cataracts, fully
compenfated
compenfated for our difficulties and delays. I obferved the great aconitum napellus, delphinium peregrinum, tlie carminative angelica lucida*, and cerulean malva.
We at length happily accomplished our line, arriving at the little river, where our hunters bring-in^ in plenty of venifon and turkeys, we had a plentiful feaft at fupper. Next morning we marked the corner tree, at the confluence of Little River and the Savanna; and, foon after, the Indians amicably took leave of us, returning home to their towns.
The rocks and foftils, which conftitute the hills of this middle region, are of various fpecies, as, quartfum, ferrum, cos, filex, glarea, arena, ochra, ftalacfites, faxum, mica, &c. I faw no iigns of marble, plaftcr, or lime-Hone; yet there are, near, Augufta, in the forefts, great piles of a porous friable white rock, in large and nearly horizontal maffes, which feems to be an heterogeneous concrete, confiding of pulverized fea ftielk, with a fmall proportion of fand; it is foft, and eafily wrought into any form, yet of fufiicient confidence for conftrucYing any building.
As for the animal productions, they are the fame which originally inhabited this part of North America, except fuch as have been affrighted away fince the inyafion of the F.uropeans. The buffalo (urus) once lo very numerous, is not at this day to be feen in this part of the country; there are but few elks, and thofe only in the Apalachian mountains. The dreaded and formidable rattle-fnake is yet too common, and a variety of other ferpents abound, particularly that admirable creature the glafs-fnake: I faw a very
* Called nondo in Virgin!*:  by the Credit and Cherokee traders, white root.
3 large
large and beautiful one, a little diftance from our camp. The alligator* a fpecies of crocodile, abounds in the rivers and fwamps, near the fea coaft, but is not to be feen above Augufta. Bears, tygers*, wolves, and wild cats (felis cauda truncata) are numerous enough : and mere is a very great variety of papilio and phalena, many of which are admir J ably beautiful, as well as other infects of infinite variety.
The furveyors having completed their obferva-tions, we fat off next day on our return to Augufta, taking our route generally through the low lands on the banks of the Savanna. We crofted Broad River, at a newly fettled plantation, near its confluence with the Savanna. On my arrival at Augufta, finding myfelf a little fatigued, I ftaid there a day or two, and then fat off again for Savanna, the capital, where we arrived in good health.
Having, in this journey, met with extraordinary fuccefs, not only in the enjoyment of an uninterrupted ftate of good health, and efcaping ill accidents, incident to fuch excurftons, through uninhabited wilderneffes, and an Indian frontier, but alfo in making a very extenfive collection of new discoveries of natural productions; on the recollection of fo many and great favours and Meltings, I now, with a high fenfe of gratitude, prefume to offer up my fincere thanks to the Almighty, the Creator and Preferver.
* This creature is called, in Pennfylvania and the northern State;, panther"; but in Carolina and the fouthcrn States, is called tyger; it is very ftrong, much larger than any dog, of a yellowilh. brown, or clay colour, having a very long tail ; it is a mifthicvoub animal, and preys on calves, young eglts, 6ce.
CHAP.
CHAP. V.
Having completed my Hortus Siccus, and made up my collections of feeds and growing roots, the fruits of my late weftern tour, and fent them to Charlefton, to be forwarded to Europe, I fpent the remaining part of this feafon in botanical excurfions ro the low countries, between Carolina and Eaft Florida, and collected feeds, roots, and fpecimens, making drawings of fuch curious fubjects as could not be preferved in their native ftate of excellence.
During this recefs from the high road of my travels, having obtained the ufe of a neat light cyprefs canoe, at Broughton Ifland, a plantation, the property of the Hon. Henry Laurens, Efq. I ftored myfelf with necefiaries for the voyage, and refolved Upon a trip up the Alatamaha.
I afcended this beautiful river, on whofe fruitful banks the generous and true fons of liberty fe-curely dwell, fifty miles above the white fettle-ments.
How gently flow thy peaceful floods, O Alatamaha ! How fublimely rile to view, on thy elevated ihores, yon magnolian groves, from whofe tops the furrounding expanfe is perfumed, by clouds of incenfe, blended with the exhaling balm of the liquidambar, and odours continually arifing from circumambient aromatic groves of illicium, myrica, laurus, and bignonia.
When wearied with working my canoe againft the impetuous current (which becomes ftronger by
reafon
reatbn of the mighty floods of the river, with Collected force, prefling through the firft hilly afcents, where the fhores on each fide prefent to view rocky cliffs riling above the furface of the water, in nearly flat horizontal mattes, wafhed fmooth by the defending floods, and which appear to be a compo-fition, or concrete, of fandy lime-ftone) I refigned my bark to the friendly current, referving to my-felf the controul of the helm.   My progrefs was rendered delightful by the fylvan elegance of tiie groves, cheerful meadows, and high diftant forefts, which in grand order prefented themfelves to view. The winding banks of the river, and the high projecting promontories, unfolded frefli fcenes of grandeur and fublimity.   The deep forefts and diftant hills re-echoed the cheering focial lowings of do-meftic herds.   The air was filled with the loud and flirill whooping of the wary fharp-fighted crane. Behold, on yon decayed, defoliated cyprefs tree, the folitary wood-pelican, dejectedly perched upon ks utmoft elevated fpire; he there, like an ancient venerable fage, fets himfelf up as a mark of deri-fion, for the fafcty of his kindred tribes. The crying-bird, another faithful guardian, fcreaming in the gloomy thickets, warns the feathered tribes of approaching peril; and the plumage of the fwift failing fquadrons of Spanifh curlews (white as the immaculate robe of innocence) gleams in the cerulean fkies.
Thus fecure and tranquil, and meditating on the marvellous fcenes of primitive nature, as yet unmodified by the hand of man, 1 gently descended the peaceful ftream, on whofe polifhed furface were depicted the mutable fhadows from its penfile banks; whilft myriads of finny inhabitants fported in its pellucid floods.
The
The glorious fovereign of day, clothed in light refulgent, rolling on his gilded chariot, haftened to revifit the weftern realms. Grey penfive eve now admonidied us of gloomy night's hafty approach: I was roufed by care to feek a place of fecure repofe, ere darknefs came on.
Drawing near the high mores, I afcended the fteep banks, where ftood a venerable oak.   An ancient Indian field, verdured over with fucculent grafs, and chequered with coppices of f:\igrant fhrubs, offered to my view the Mytica cerifera, Magnolia glauca, Laurus benzoin, Laur. Borbonia, Rhamnus frangula, Primus Chicafaw,  Prim, lau-rocerafus, and others.   It was nearly encircled with an open foreft of ftately pines (Pinus paluftris) through which appeared the extenfivc favanna, the • fecure range of the fwifc roebuck.   In front of my landing, and due eaft, 1 had a fine profpect ©f the river and low lands on each fide, which gradually widened to the fea coaft,1 and gave me an uncon-fined profpect, whilft the far diftant fea-coait iflands, like a coronet, limited the hoary horizon.
My barque being fecurely moored, and having reconnoitred the furrounding groves, and collected fire-wood, I fpread my fkins and blanket by my cheerful fire, under the protecting fhade of the hof-pitable Live-oak, and reclined my head on my hard but healthy couch. I liftened, undifturbed, to the divine hymns of the feathered fongfters of the groves, whilft the foftly whifpering breezes faintly died away.
The fun now below the weftern horizon, the moon majeftically rifing in the eaft; again the tuneful birds became infpiied: how melodious is the focial mock-bird! the groves refound the unceafing
E cries
cries of the whip-poor-will j the moon about an hour above the horizon; lo! a dark eclipfe * of her glorious brightnefs came flowly on; at length, a filver threat! alone encircled her temples: at this boding change, an univerfal filence prevailed.
Nature now weary, I refigned myfelf to reft; the night paffed over; the cool dews of the morning awoke me; my fire burnt low ; the blue fmoke fcarce rofe above the moiftened embers; all was gloomy : the late ftarry fkies, now overcaft by thick clouds, warned me to rife and be going. The livid purple clouds thickened on the frowning brows of the morning; the tumultuous winds from the eaft now exerted their power. O peaceful Alatamaha I gentle by nature ! how thou wert ruffled ! thy wavy furface disfigured every object, prefenting them obfcurely to the fight, and they at length totally difappeared, whilft the furious winds and fweep-ing rains bent the lofty groves, and proftrated the quaking grafs, driving the affrighted creatures to their dens and caverns.
The tempeft now relaxed, its impetus being fpenr, and a calm ferenity gradually took place; by noon the clouds broke away, the blue fky appeared, the fulgid fun-beams fpread abroad their animating light, and the fteady weftern wind refumed his peaceful reign. The waters were purified, the waves fubfided, and the beautiful river regained its native calmnefs. So it is with the varied and mutable fcenes of human events on the ftream of life. The higher powers and affections of the foul are fo blended and connected with the inferior paffions, that the moft painful feelings are excited in the mind when the latter are crofted: thus in the moral fyftem, which we have
* The n'tr at this time being feicnc, and not a cloud to be feen, I faw this arnual almoft total autumnal eclipfe in its higheft degree of perfection.
planned
planned for our conduct, as a ladder whereby to mount to the fummit of terrellrial glory and hap-pinefs, and from whence we perhaps meditated our flight to heaven itfelf, at the very moment when we vainly imagine ourfelves to have attained its point, fome unforeseen accident intervenes, and furpriies Us; the chain is violently fhaken, we quit our hold and fall: the well contrived fyftem at once becomes a chaos; every idea of happinefs recedes; the fplendour of glory darkens, and at length totally difap-pears; every pleafing object is defaced, all is deranged, and the flattering fcene paffes quite away; a gloomy cloud pervades the underftanding, and when we fee our progrefs retarded, and our belt intentions fruftrated, we are apt to deviate from the admonitions and convictions of virtue, to flnit our eyes upon our guide and protector, doubt of his power, and defpair of his afliitance. But let us wait and rely on our God, who in due time will fhine forth in brightnefs, diflipate the envious cloud, and reveal to us how finite and circumfcribed is human power, when aflfuming to itfelf independent wifdom.
But, before I leave the river Alatamaha, we will proceed to give a further and more particular account of it. It has its fource in the Cherokee mountains, near the head of Tugilo, the great weft branch of Savanna, and, before it leaves them, is joined and augmented by innumerable rivulets;' thence it defcends through the hilly country, with all its collateral branches, and winds rapidly amongft the hills two .hundred and. fifty miles, anil then enters the flat plain country, by the name of the OakmuW ; thence meandering an hundred and fifty miles, it is joined on the eaft fide by the Ocone, which likewife heads in the lower ridges of the mountains. After this confluence, E 2 having
having now gained a vaft acquifition of waters, it affumes the name of Alatamaha, when it becomes a targe majeltic river, flowing with gentte windings through a vaft plain foreft, near an hundred miles, and enters the Atlantic by feveral mouths. The north channel,  or entrance,  glides by the heights of Darieii, on the eaft bank, about ten miles above the bar, and running from thence with feveral turnings, enters the ocean between Sapello and Wolf iilands.    The fouth channel, which is efteemed the largeft and deepeft, after its fepara-tion from the north, defcends gently, winding by M'Intofli's and Broughton iflands; and laftly, by the weft coaft of St. Simon's ifland, enters the ocean, through St. Simon's found, between the fouth end of the ifland of that name ami the north end of Jekyl ifland.   On the weft banks of the fouth channel, ten or twelve miles above its mouth, and nearly oppofite Darien, are to be feen the remains of an ancient fort, or fortification; it is now a regular tetragon terrace, about four feet high, with baftions at each angle; the area may contain about an acre of ground, but the foflTe which furrounded it is nearly filled up.   There are large-Live Oak, Pines, and other trees, growing upon it, and in the old fields adjoining.   It is fuppofed to have been the work of the French or Spaniards. A large fwamp lies betwixt it and the river, and a confiderable creek inns clofe by the works, and enters the river through the fwamp, a fmall diftance above Broughton ifland.   About feventy or eighty miles above the confluence of the Oakmulge and Ocone, the trading path, from Augufta to the Creek nation, croffes thefe fine rivers, which are there forty miles apart.   On the eaft banks of the'Oakmulge, this trading road runs nearly two miles 8 through
through ancient IncUan fields, which are catted the Oakmulge fields-, they are the rich low lands of the river. On the heights of thefe low grounds are yet vifible monuments^ or traces, of an ancient town, fuch as artificial mounts or terraces, fquares and banks, encircling confutable areas. Their old fields and planting land extend up and down the river, fifteen or twenty miles from this fite.
If we are to give credit to the account the Creeks give of themfelves, this place is remarkable for being the tirft town or fettlement, when they fat down (as they term it) or eftabiiihed themfelves, after their emigration from the weft, beyond the Miffifippi, their original native country. On this long journey they fulfered great and innumerable difficulties, encountering and vanquishing numerous and valiant tribes of Indians, who oppofed and retarded their march. Having croffed the river, ftilf pufhing eaftward, they were obliged to make a ftand, and fortify themfelves in this place, as their only remaining hope, being to the laft degree perfected and weakened by their furrounding foes. Having formed for themfelves this retreat, and driven off the inhabitants by degrees, they recovered their fpirits, and again faced their enemies, when they came off victorious in a memorable and decifive battle. They afterwards gradually fubdued their furrounding enemies, ftrcngthening themfelves by taking into confederacy the vanquiihed tribes.
And they fay, alfo, that about this period the Englifh were eftablifhing the colony of Carolina; and the Creeks, underftanding that they were a powerful, warlike people, fent deputies to Charief-ton, their capital, offering them their friendihip and alliance, which was accepted, and, in confequence
E 3 thereof,
thereof, a treaty took place between them, which has remained inviolable to this day. They never ceafed war againfb the numerous and potent bands of Indians, who then furrounded and cramped the Fnglifh plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches, Wapoos, Santees, Yamafees, Utinas, Icofans, Pa-ticas, and others, until they had extirpated them. The Yamafees and their adherents fheltering themfelves under the power and protection of the Spaniards of Eaft Florida, they purfued them to the very gates of St. Auguftine; and the Spaniards refuting to deliver them up, thefe faithful intrepid allies had the cournge to declare war againft them, and inceilantly perfecuted them, until they entirely broke up and ruined their fettlements, driving them before them, till at length they were obliged to retire within the walls of St. Auguftine and a few inferior fortified pofts on the fea coaft.
After a few days I returned to Broughton ifland. The Cherokees and their confederates being yet dif-contented, and on bad terms with the white people, it was unfafe to purfue my travels in the north weftern regions of Carolina. And recollecting many fubjects of natural hiftory, which I had obferved in the fouth of the ifthmus of Florida, when on a journey fome years ago with my father, John Bartram, that were interefting, and not taken notice of by any traveller; and as it was then in the autumn and winter, having rcafon to think that very many curious fubjects had efcaped our refearches; I now formed the refolution of travelling into Eaft Florida; accordingly, I immediately wrote to doctor Fo-thergill, in order that he might know where to direct to me.
PART
PART II.
C HAP. I.
We are, all of us, fubject to croffes and disappointments, but more efpecially the traveller; and when they furprife us, we frequently become reft-lefs and impatient under them: but let us rely on Providence, and by ftudying and contemplating the works and power of the Creator, learn wifdom and underftanding in the economy of nature, and be ferioufly attentive to the divine monitor within. Let us be obedient to the ruling powers in fuch things as regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and all creatures and concerns that are fubmitted to our care and controul.
In the month of March, 1774, I fat off from Savanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Alatamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in fhort excurfions, picking up curiofities, until the arrival of a fmall veffel at Frederica, from Savanna, which was deftined to an Indian trading houfe high up St. John's, in Eaft Florida. Upon information of this veflel's arrival, I immediately took boat and defcended the Alatamaha, calling by the way of Broughton ifland, where I was kindly received by Mr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens's agent. Leaving Broughton ifland in the evening, I continued de-fcending the fouth channel nine or ten miles, when, after crofting the found, I arrived at Frederica, on the ifland of St. Simon, where I was well received and entertained by James Spalding, efq. This gen-
E 4 ' tleman
tleman carrying on a very confiderable trade, and having extenfive connections with the Indian tribes of Halt Florida, gave me letters to his agents rending at his trading houfes, ordering them to furnifh me with horfes, guides, and every other convenient afliftance.
Before the veffel was ready to fail again for St. John's, I had time to explore the ifland. In the cool of the morning early, I rode out of Che town, directing my courfe to the fouth end of the ifland. After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which almoft furrounded the town on the land-fide, fuddenly a very extenfive and beautiful green favanna opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in breadth near a mile, well ftocked with horned cattle, horfes, fheep, and deer. Following an old highway, now out of repair, acrofs the Savanna, I afcended the Hoping green bank, and entered a noble foreft of lofty pines, and then a venerable grove of Live Oaks, under whofe fhady fpreading boughs opened a fpacious avenue, leading to the former feat of general Oglethorpe, but now the property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leaving this town, I was led into a high pine foreft j the trees were tall, and generally of the fpecies called Broom-pine (P. paluftris Linn.) the furface of the ground covered with grafs, herbage, and fome fhrubbery: I continued through this foreft nearly in a direct: line towards the fea coaft, five or fiv halts, when the land became uneven, with ridges of fand-hills, mixed with fea fhells, and covered by almoft impenetrable thickets, confuting of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia), Myrica, Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, CafTine, Sider-oxylon, Ptelea, Haleiia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, entangled with Smilax  pfeudo-china,   and other
fpecies,
fpecies, Bignonia fempervirens, B. crucigera, R ham-mis volubilis, 8tc. This dark labyrinth is fucceeded by a great extent of fak plains, beyond which the boundlefs ocean is feen.   Betwixt the dark foreft' and the fait plains, I crofted a rivulet of frefh water, where I fat down a while to reft myfelf, under the ftiadow of fweet Bays and Oaks; the lively breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of the ftiperb Crinum, called by the inhabitants, White Lib.    This  admirable beauty of the fea-coaft-iilands dwells in the humid fhady groves, where the foil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of fea fhells.   The delicate ftiucture of its fpadix, its green broad leaves, and the texture and whitenefs of its flowers, at once charmed me.   The Euphorbia pitta,  Salvia  coccinea,  and Ipomea electa, were alfo feated in front of my retting place, as well as the Lycium falfum (perhaps L. Afrum I -inn.) a very beautiful ever-green  fhrub,   its cerulean flowers,  and coral  red  berries, always  on its branches, forming not the leaft of its beauties.
Time now admonifliing me to rife and be going, I, with reluctance, broke away from this afiembly of maritime beauties.
Continuing on, fouthward, the fait plains on my left hand infcnfibly became narrower, and I at length reached the ftrand, which was level, firm, and paved with fhells, and afforded me a grand view of the boundlefs ocean.
0 thou Creator fupreme, almighty! how infinite and incomprehcnfible thy works! moft perfect, and every way aftonilhing!
1 continued nearly a mile along this firm fandy beach, the waves of the fea fometimes wafliing my
horfe s
horfe's feet. I obferved a great variety cf fhcll-filb, as Echinitis, Corallinu.% Patella, Medufa, Buccina, Concha venerea, Auris marina, Cancer, Squilla, ike. fome alive, and others dead, having been eaft upon the beach by the feas, in times of tempeft, where they became a prey to fea fowl, and other maritime animals, or periftied by the heat of the fun and burning fands. At length I doubled the utmoft foutli point of St. Simon's, which forms the north cape of the fouth channel of the great river Alatamaha. The found, juft within this cape, forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the fouth end of the ifland, on the oppofite fide of which I beheld a houfe and farm, where I foon arrived. This delightful habitation was fituated in the midft of a ipacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near die ft rand of the bay, commanding a view of the inlet. A cool area furrounded the low but convenient buildings, from whence, through the groves, was a Ipacious avenue into the ifland, terminated by a large favanna; each fide of the avenue was lined with bec-hives, to the number of fifty or fixry; they feemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a lively image of a colony that has attained to a ftate of power and affluence, by the practice of virtue and induftry.
When I approached the houfe, the good man, who was reclining on a bear-fkin, fpread under the fhade of a Live Oak, fmoking his pipe, rofe and falutcd me: " Welcome, ftranger, I am indulging the rational dictates of nature, taking a little reft, having juft come in from the chace and riffling." After fome converfation and reft, his fer-vant brought a bowl of honey and water, a very refiefhing and agreeable liquor, of which I drank. On riling to take my departure, he objected, and
requeued
requeued me to flay and dine with him; and on my pleading, for excufe, the neceiTity of my being at Frederica, " Yet, I pray you, flay a little, I will foon have fome refrefhment for you." Prefently was laid before us a plentiful repaft of vcnifon, Sec. ; our drink being honey and water, flrengthened by the addition of brandy. Our rural table was fpread under the fhadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays, fanned by the lively falubrious breezes wafted from the fpicy groves. Our mufic was the refponfive love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert and gay mockbird; whiift the brilliant hummingbird darted through the flowery groves, fufpended in air, and drank nectar from the flowers of the yellow Jafmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and fweet Azalea.
But yet, how awfully great and fublime is the majeftie fcene eaftward ! the folemn found of the beating furf ftrikes our ears; the dalfiing of yon liquid mountains, like mighty giants, in vain affail the fkies; they are beaten back, and fall proftrate upon the fhores of the trembling ifland.
Taking leave of my fylvan friend, I fat off on my return to the town, where I arrived before night, having obferved, on the way, many curious vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma (or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha repens, frondibus expanfis, nabelliformibus, plica-tis, ftipit. fpinofis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Corypha obliqua, caudice arboreo adfeendente, frondibus expanfis, flabelliformibus, plicatis, ftipit. ferratis, Cyrilla, Tillandfia monoftachya, Till, lingulata, or Wild Pine; both thefe curious vegetables are pa-rafites, living on the fubftance of others, particularly on the limbs of the Live Oak; the latter fpecies
cies is a very large fiouriihing plant, greatly re-fembling, at fome diftance, a well grown plant of the Bromelia Ananas: the large deep green leaves are placed in an imbricated order, and afcendant; but their extremities are reflex, their bafes gibbous and hollowed, like a ladle, • and capable of containing near a pint of water: heavy tempefls of wind and rain tear thefe plants from the trees; yet they live and flourifh on the earth, under the fhadow of thefe great Live Oaks. A very large part of this ifland had formerly been cleared and planted by the Englifh, as appeared evidently to me, by veiliges of plantations, ruins of coflly buildings, highways, c\tc. but it is now overgrown with forefts. Frederica was the firft town built by the Englifh in Georgia, and was founded by general Oglethorpe, who began and eftablifhed the colony. The for-trefs was regular and beautiful, conftiucled chiefly with brick, and was the largeft, moft regular, and perhaps moft coltly, of any in North America, of Britilh conftruction: it is now in ruins, yet occupied by a fmall garrifon; the ruins alfo of the town only remain; peach trees, figs, pomegranates, and other fhrubs, grow out of the ruinous walls of former ipacious and expenfive buildings, not only in the town, but at a diftance in various parts of the ifland; yet there are a few neat houfes in good repair, and inhabited: it feems now recovering again, owing to the public and liberal fpirit and exertions of J. Spalding, efq. who is prefident of the ifland, and engaged in very extenfive mercantile concerns.
CHAP.
CHAP. II.
The vcfTel in which I was to embark for Eaft Florida, being now ready to purfue her voyage, we Hit fail with a fair wind and tide.   Our courfe was fouth, through the found, betwixt a chain of fca-coaft-iflands, and the main.   In the evening we came to, at the fouth end of St. Simon's, having been hindered by the flood tide making againft us. The captain and myfclf, with one of our crew, went on fhore, with a view of getting fome venifon and fea fowl.   We had not the good fortune to fee any deer, yet we were not altogether unfuccefsful, having taken three young racoons (CJrfus Cauda elon-gata) which are excellent meat: we had them for fupper, ferved up in a pillo.   Next morning early, we again got under way, running by Jekyl and Cumberland I (lands, large, beautiful, and fertile, yet thinly inhabited, and confequently excellent haunts for deer, bears, and other game.
As we ran by Cumberland I lie, keeping the channel through the found, we faw a fail a head coming up towards us. Our captain knew it to be the trading fchooner from the ftores on St. John's, and immediately predicted bad news, as fhe was not to fail until our arrival there. As fhe approached us, his apprehenfions were more and more confirmed, from the appearance of a number of paffengers on deck. We laid to, until fhe came up, when we hailed her, "What news?" "Bad; the Indians have plundered the upper ftore, and the traders have efcaped, only with their lives." Upon this both vefTels came to anchor very near each other, when,
• learning
learning the particulars, it appeared, that a large party of Indians had furprifed and plundered two trading hollies, in the ifthmus, beyond the river St. John's; and a third being timely apprifed of their hof-tile intentions, by a faithful runner, had time to carry off part of the effects, which they fecreted in a fwamp at fome diftance from it, covering them with fkins. The upper ftore had faved their goods in like manner; and the lower ftore to which we were bound, had removed the chief of theirs, and depofited them on a fmall ifland, in the river, about five miles below the ftore. With thefe effects was my cheft, which I had forwarded in this veffel, from Savanna, not being at that time determined whether to make tiiis journey by land, or water. The captain of our veffel, refolved to put about and return to Frederica, for frefh inftructions how to proceed; but for my part, I was determined to proceed for the ifland up St. John's, where my cheft was lodged, there being fome valuable books and papers in it, which I could not do well without. I accordingly defired our captain to put me on fihore, on Little St, Simon's, which was not far diftant, intending to walk a few miles to a fort, at the fouth end of that ifland, where fome fifhermen refided, who, as I expected, would fet me over on Amelia Ifland, where was a large plantation, the property of Lord Eg-mont, a Britifh nobleman, whofe agent, while I was at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call on him, as I pnffed toward Eaft Florida; and here I had expectations of getting a boat to carry me to St. John's. Agreeably to my defire, the captain put me on fhore, with a young man, a paffenger, for Eaft Florida, who promifed to continue with me, and fhare my adventures. We landed fafely; the captain wifhing us a profperous journey, returned on
board
board his vefiel, and we proceeded for die fort, encountering fome harih treatment from thorny thickets, and prickly vines. However we reached the fort in the evening. The commander was out in the foreft, hunting. My companion being tired, or indolent, betook himfelf to reft, while 1 made a tour round the fouth point of the ifland, walking the ihelly paved fea beach, and picking up novelties. I had not gone above a mile, bef ire 1 came up to a roebuck, lying ftain on the lands; and hearing the report of a gun, not fir oft', and fuppofing it to be from the captain of the fort, whom I expected foon to return to take up his game, I retired to a little diftance, mounted the fand hills, and fat down, enjoying a fine profpect of the rolling billows and foaming breakers, beating on the bar, and north promontory of Amelia I lie, oppofite to me. The captain of the fort foon came up, with a flain buck on his lhoulders. We hailed each other, and returned together to the fort, where we were well treated, and next morning, at my requeft, the captain obligingly fat us over, landing us fafely 011 Amelia. After walking through a fpacious foreft ot Live Oaks and Palms, and crofting a creek that ran through a narrow fait marfh, I and my fellow traveller arrived fafe at the plantation, where the agent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hof-pitably. This gentleman is a very intelligent and able planter, having already greatly improved the eftate, particularly in the cultivation of indigo. Great part of this ifland confifts of excellent hom-mocky land, which is the foil this plant delights in, as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and almoft every other efculent vegetable. Mr. Egan politely rode with me over great part of the illand, On
Egmont
Egmont eftate are feveral very large Indian tumuli, which are called Ogeeche mounts, fo named from that nation of Indians, who took fhelter here, after being driven from their native fettlements on the main near Ogeeche river. Here they were con-ftantly haralfed by the Carolinians and Creeks, and at length (lain by their conquerors, and their bones entombed in thefe heaps of earth and fhells. I obferved here the ravages of the common grey caterpillar (Phalena periodica), fo deftructive to forefl and fruit trees, in Pennfylvania, and through the northern mates, by {tripping them of their leaves, in the fpring, while young and tender.
Mr. Egan having bufinefs of importance to tranf-act in St. Auguftine, pre fled me to continue with him a f w days, when he would accompany me to that place, and, if I chofe, I ftiould have a paffage, as far as the Cow-ford, on St.John's, where he would procure me a boat to profecute my voyage.
It may be a fubject worthy of fome inquiry, why thofe fine iflands, on the coaft of Georgia, are fo thinly inhabited; though perhaps Amelia may in fome degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fertile ifland, on the north border of Eaft Florida, and at the Capes of St. Mary, the fincft harbour in this new colony. If I fhould give my opinion, the following feem to be the moft probable reafons: the grcateft part of thefe are as yet the property of a few wealthy planters, who having their rcfidence on the continent, where lands on the large rivers, as Savanna, Ogeeche, Alatamaha, St. Ille, and others, are of a nature and quality adapted to the growth of rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon for obtaining ready cam, and purchafing family articles; they fetde a few poor families on their in-
fular eftates, who rear flocks of horned cattle, horfes, fwine, and poultry, and protect the game for their proprietors. The inhabitants of thefe iflands alfo lie open to the invafion and ravages of pirates, and in cafe of a war, to incurfions from their enemies armed veffels; in which cafe they muft either remove with their families and effects to the main, or be ftripped of all their moveables, and their houfes laid in ruins.
The foil of thefe iflands appears to be particularly favourable to the culture of indigo and cotton, and there are on them fome few large plantations for the cultivation and manufacture of thofe valuable articles.   The cotton is planted only by the poorer clafs of people, juft enough for their family confumption: they plant two fpecies of it, the annual and Weft Indian; the former is low, and planted every year;  the balls of this are very large, and the phlox long, ftrong, and' perfectly white; the Weft Indian is a tall perennial plant, the ftalk fomewhat fhrubby, feveral of which rife up from the root for feveral years fucceffively, the ftems of the former year being killed by the winter frofts.   The balls of this latter fpecies are not quite fo large as thofe of the herbaceous cotton; but the phlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, filky, and white.   A plantation of this kind will laft feveral years, with moderate labour and care, whereas the annual fort is planted every year.
The coafts, founds, and inlets, environing thefe iflands, abound with a variety of excellent fiih, particularly Rock, Bafs, Drum, Mullet, Sheeps-head, Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea Trout, [this laft feems to be a fpecies of Cod] Skate, Skipjack, Stingray. The Shark, and great Black Sting-
F ray,
ray, are infatiable cannibals, and veiy troubleiome to the fifhermen. The bays and lagoons are ftored with oyfters, and varieties of other ftiell-fifh, crabs, fhrimp, &c. The clams, in particular, are large, their meat white, tender, and delicate.
There is a large fpace betwixt this chain of fea-coaft-iflmds and the main land, perhaps generally-near three leagues in breadth; but all this fpace is not cove.-ed with water: I eftimate nearly two-thirds of it to confift of low fait plains, which produce Barilla, Sedge, Rufhes, &c. and which border on the main land, and the weftern coafts of the iflands. The eaft fides of thefe iflands are, for die moft part, clean, hard, fandy beaches, expofed to the wafh of tfie ocean.   Between thefe iflands are the mouths or entrances of fome rivers, which run down from the continent, winding about through thefe low fait marfhes, and delivering dieir waters into the founds, which are very extenfive capacious harbours, from three to five and fix to eight miles over, and communicate with each other by parallel fait rivers, or paffes, that flow into the found : they afford an extenfive and fecure inland navigation for moft craft, fuch as large fchooners, Hoops, pettiaugers, boats, and canoes i and this inland communication of waters extends along the fea coaft with but few and ftiort interruptions, from die bay of Chefapeak, in Virginia, to the Miftifippi, and how much farther I know not, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whether this chain of fea-coaft-iflands is a ftep, or advance, vvhich this part of our continent is now making on the Atlantic ocean, we muft leave to future ages to determine.   But it feems evident, even to demon-itration, that thofe fait marines adjoining the coaft of the main, and the reedy and graffy iflands and
marfhes
marfhes in the rivers, which are now overflowed at every tide, were formerly high fwamps of firm land, affording forefts of Cyprefs, Tupilo, Magnolia grandiflora, Oak, Alh, Sweet Bay, and other timber trees, the fame as are now growing on the river fwamps, whofe furface is two feet or more above the fpring tides that flow at this day; and it is plainly to be feen by every planter along the coaft of Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, to the Miflifippi, when they bank in thefe grafly tide marfh.es for cultivation, that they cannot fink their drains above three or four feet below the furface, before they come to ftrata of Cyprefs flumps and other trees, as clofe together as they now grow in the fwamps,
CHAP.
C M A P. III.
Being now in readinefs to profecute our voyage to St. John's, wc fat fail in a handfome pleafure-boat, manned with four ftout negro Haves, to row in cafe of neceflity.   After palling Amelia Narrows, we had a pleafant run acrofs fort George's found, where, obferving the pelicans fiffiing, Mr. Egan fhot one of them, which he took into the boat.   I was greatly furprifed on obferving the pouch or fack, which hangs under the bill: it is capable of being expanded to a prodigious fize. One of the people on board, faid, that he had feen more than half a bufhel of bran crammed into one of their pouches.   The body is larger than that of a tame goofe, the legs extremely fhort, the feet webbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwards like a fcythe, the wings extend near feven feet from tip to tip, the tail is very fhort, the head, neck, and brcafti nearly white, the body of a light bluilh gray, except the quill feathers of the wings, which are black.   They feem to be of the gull kind, both in form and ftru&ure, as well as manner of fifhing. The evening following, we landed on the main. It was a promontory of high land, covered with orange-trees, and projecting into the found, forming a convenient port.   We pitched our tent under the fhelter of a foreft of Live Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays j and having in the courfe of the day, procured plenty of fea fowl, fuch as curlews, willets, fnipes, fand birds, and others; we had them dreifed for fupper, and feafoned with excellent oyfters, which lay in heaps in the water, clofe to our landing-place.
The
The fhrub Capficum growing here in abundance, afforded us a very good pepper: we drank of a well of frefh water juft at hand, amidft a grove of Myrtles (Myrica cerifera.) Our repofe however was incomplete, from the flings of mufquetoes, the roaring of crocodiles, and the continual noife and reft-leffnefs of the fea fowl, thoufands of diem having their roofting-places very near us, particularly loons of various fpecies, herons, pelicans, Spanifli curlews, &c. all promifcuoufly lodging together, and in fuch incredible numbers, that the trees were entirely covered. They rooft in inacceffible iflets in the fait marines, furrounded by lagoons, and fhallow water. Juft without the trees, betwixt them, the water and marffies, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yucca gloriofa) or Adam's needle, which grows fo thick together, that a rat or bird can fcarcely pafs through them; and the flirt leaves of this fword plant, ftand-ing nearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man, or any other animal, as if they were a regiment of grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. The Palmetto royal is, however, a very fingular and beautiful production. It may be termed a tree, from its durability and magnitude, as likewife from the ligneous quality of its ftem, or trunk, when old; yet from its form and texture, I fhould be inclined to rank it amongft the herbaceous plants, for even the glorious Palm, although it rifes to the altitude of a tree, and even tranfeends moft of them, yet it bears the characters of the herbaceous ones: and this, like the Palm tree, rifes with a ftraight, erect ftem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with a beautiful chaplet of fword or dagger-like leaves, of a perfect green colour, each terminated with a ftifF, Sharp fpur, and their edges finely crenatcd. This thorny crown is crefted with a pyramid of fil-
F 3 yet
ver white flowers, each refembling a tulip or Illy. Thefe flowers are fucceeded by a large fruit, nearly of the form and fize of a (lender cucumber, which when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the fkin fmooth and fnining, its pulp foft, very juicy, and of an agreeable aromatic flavour, but rather bitter to the tafte; it is, however, frequently eaten, but if eaten to excefs, proves violently purgative. The feeds are numerous, flat, and lunated.
The plant, or tree, when grown old, fometimes divides into two or three ftems, which feem of equal height and thicknefs, and indeed nearly of the fame thicknefs with the main ftem; but generally, when they arrive to this age and magnitude, their own weight brings them to the ground, where they foon decay, the heart or pith firft, leaving a hollow fibrous reticulated trunk or flceve, which like-wife foon after decays, and in fine, all is again reduced to its original earth, and replaces the vegetative mould. But the deceafed are foon replaced by others, as there are younger ones of all ages and ftature, ready to fucceed their predeceffors, and-flourilh for a time, with the fame regal pomp and fplendor. Thefe plants are fo multitudinous, where-ever they get a footing, that the earth is completely occupied by them, and fcarcely any other vegetable is to be feen, where they are ; yet they are femetimes fcattered amongft other trees and vegetables.
In three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived at the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. John's, about thirty miles above the bar or capes, the river here being above a mile wide.
Mr. Fgan, after procuring a neat little fail-boat
for
for me, at a large indigo plantation near the ferry, and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St. Auguftine, which is on the fea-coaft, about forty-five miles over land.
It was now about the middle of April. Vegetation appearing every where in high progrefs, 1 was anxious to be advancing foutherly ; and having at this plantation ftored myfelf with neceftaries for my voyage, I failed in the morning, wul a fair wind. I was now again alone, for the young man, my fellow traveller, though ftouter and hearder than myfelf, having repented of his promife to accompany me to the Indian trading houfes, I fup-pofe not relilhing the hardships and dangers, v. :ach might perhaps befal us, chofe rather to ftay behind, amongft the icrtlements. His leaving me, however, I did not greatly regret, as I could not conuder it a difappointment much to my difadvantage at the moment. Our views were probably totally oppofite; he, a young mechanic on his adventures, feemed to be actuated by no other motives, than either to eftablifti himfelf in fome well inhabited part of the country, where, by following his occupation, he might be enabled to procure, without much toil and danger, the iicccftarics and conveniencies of life; or by induftry and frugality, perhaps eftablifh his fortune. Whilft I, continually impelled by a reft-kh lpirit of curiofity, in purfuit of new productions of nature, my chief happinefs confifted in tracing and admiring the infinite power, majefty, and perfection of the great Almighty Creator, and in the contemplation, that through divine aid and per-miftion, I might be inftrumental in difcovering, and introducing into my native country, fome original productions of nature, which might become ufeful
F 4 to
to fociety. Each of our purfu'its was perhaps equally laudable; and upon this fuppofition, I was quite willing to part with him upon amicable terms.
My little vefTeJ being furnifhed with a good fail, and having fifhing tackle, a neat light fufee, powder and ball, I found myfelf well equipped for my voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading houfe.
I crofted the river to a high promontory of wood-land, on the weft Ihore, and being ftruck with the magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak, Palms, and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I ftepped on ihore to take a view of the place. Orange trees were in full bloom, and filled the air with fragrance.
It was now paft noon, and this place being about eight miles above the Cow-ford, and the river near three miles in breadth, I wanted to reach a plantation in fight, on the oppofite ihore, in order to get fome repairs, my veftel having fuftained fome damage from the violence of the wind, in crofting over. I arrived late in the evening, and finding a convenient landing-place and harbour, I concluded to remain here till morning, and then coaft it clofe along fhore to the plantation.
It beginning to thunder, I was fufficiently warned to prepare againft a wet night; and obferving a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown down by a hurricane, and offered me a convenient lhelter, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunk a fufficient height from the earth to admit me to fit or lie down under it, I fpread my fail, flanting from the trunk of the tree to the ground, on the
windward
windward fide; and having collected a quantity of wood, iurRcient to keep up a fire during the night, I ftruck one up in front, and fpreading fkins on the ground, and upon thefe placing a blanket, one half I lay down upon, turning the other over me for a covering.
The ftorm came up, with a furious wind and tremendous thunder and lightning, from the oppofite N. W. coaft, but luckily for me, little rain fell, and I refted very well.   But as the wind next morning blew very frefh, right in upon the Ihore, there was no poflibility of moving, with fafety, from my prefent fituation.    I however arofe to reconnoitre the ground round about my habitation, being roufed by the report of a mufket not far ofF,   I had not left fight of my encampment, following a winding path through a grove of Live Oak,  Laurel (Magn. grandiflora) and Sapindus, before an Indian ftepped out of a thicket, and croffed the path juft before me, having a large turkey cock flung acrofs his fhoulders: he faw me, and ftepping up and. fmiling, fpoke to me in Englifh, bidding me good morning.   I faluted him with " It's well, brother," led him to my camp, and treated him with a dram.   This friendly Indian informed me that he lived at the next plantation, employed as a hunter.   I afked him how far it was to the houfe; he anfwered about half a mile by land, and invited me to go there, telling me that his mafter was a very good, kind man, and would be glad to fee me.   I replied, that I would, if my boat and effects in the mean time could be fafe.   He laid that he would immediately return to the houfe, and acquaint his mafter with it, who would fend trufty negroes to bring my veflel round
the
the point, to the landing. I thanked him for his civility, and not willing to be troubleibme, I told him I would leave my boat, and follow after him; lb taking my fufec on my moulder, after dragging my bark as high up on ihore as I could, I followed the Indian, and foon reached the houfe.
The gentleman received me in the moft polite manner; and, after hearing my fituation, he requeued me to make my abode with him a few days, to reft and refreih myfelf. I thanked him, and told him I would ftay a day. He immediately font flaves who brought my boat round; and having carpenters at work on a new building, he fit them about repairing my veifel, which by night was completely refitted.
I fpent the day in the moft agreeable manner, in the fociety of this man of lingular worth. He led me over his extenfive improvements, and we returned in company with feveral of his neighbours. In the afternoon, the moft fultry time of the day, we reared to the fragrant ihades of an orange grove. The houfe was fituated on an eminence, about one hundred and fifty yards from the river. On the right hand was the orangery, confining of many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left ftanding, when the ground about it was cleared. Thefe trees were large, fiourifhing, and in perfect bloom, and loaded with their ripe golden fruit. On the other fide was a fpacious garden, occupying a regular ftope of ground, down to the water; and a pleafant lawn lay between. Here were large plantations of the Indigo plant, which appeared in a very thriving condition: it was then about five or fix inches high, growing in ftrait parallel rows, about eighteen inches apart. The
Corn
Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Convolv. Batata) were greatly advanced in growth, and promifed a plentiful crop. The Indigo made in Eaft Florida is efteemed almoft equal to the beft Spanifh, efpeci-ally that fort, which they call Flora. Mr. Mar-Ihall prefented me with a fpecimen of his own manufacture, at this plantation : it was very little, if any, inferior to the beft Pruftian blue.
In the morning following, intimating my intentions of proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Mar (hall again importuned me to ftay; but I obtained his confent to depart, on my promifing to vilit him at my return to Georgia. After breakfail I therefore - took my leave, attended to the ftiore by feveral Oaves, loaded with ammunition and pro-vifions, which my friend had provided for me. On my exprefting fome difficulty in receiving fo large a fhare of his bounty, he civilly replied, that it was too little to mention, and that, if I had continued with him a day or two longer, he fhould have had time to have ferved me in a much better manner.
Taking my leave of Mr. Marfhall, I again embarked alone on board my little veflel, and blefled with a favourable fteady gale, I let fail. The day was extremely pleafant; the late thunder ftorm had purified the air, by difunking and diftipating the noxious vapours. The falling of heavy fhow-crs, with thunder and brifk winds, from the cool regions of the N. W. contributes greatly towards reftoring the falubrity of the air, and purity of the waters, by precipitating the putrefcent fcum, that rifes from the bottom, and floats upon the furface, near the fhores of the rivers, in thefe fouthern climates, during the hot leafons. The
fhores
fhores of this great river St. Juan are very level and fhoal, extending, in fome places, a mile or two into the river, betwixt the high land and the clear waters of the river, which is lb level, as to be covered not above a foot or two deep with water, and at a little diftance appears as a green meadow, having water-grafs and other amphibious vegetables growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the water.
Having a lively leading breeze, I kept as near the Eaft ihore as poflible, often furprifed by the plunging of alligators, and greatly delighted with the pleafing profpecc of cultivation, and the increafe of human induftry, which frequently flruck my view from the elevated, diftant fhores.
At night I ran in fhore, at a convenient harbour, where I was received and welcomed by the gentleman, who was agent for the plantation, and at whofe pleafant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my quarters for the night.
This very civil man happened to be a perfon with whom 1 had formerly been acquainted in St. Auguftine ; and as he lived about twenty miles diftant from it, I had good reafon to expect that he would be a proper perfon to obtain intelligence from, concerning the difturbances which were thought frill to fubflft, between the Lower Creeks and the white inhabitants of Eaft Florida. Upon inquiry, and conversation with him, I found my conjectures on that head to have been well founded. My friend informed me, that there had, but a few days fince, been a council held at St. Auguftine, between the governor of Eaft Florida and the chiefs of the Lower Creeks.   They had been delegated by their
towns,
towns, to make inquiry concerning the late alarm and depredations committed by the Indians upon the traders; which the nation being apprifed of, recommended thefe deputies to be chofen and lent, as foon as pofiible, in order to make reafonable con-ceifions, before the flame, already kindled, ihould fpread into a general war.   The parties accordingly met in St. Auguftine, and the affair was amicably adjufted, to the fatisfaction of both parties. The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whofe young warriors had committed the mifchief, promiled to indemnify the traders for the lofs of their goods, and rcquefted that they might return to their ftore-houfes, with goods as ufual, and that they mould be fafe in their perfons and property.   The traders at this time were actually preparing to return.   It appeared, upon a ftrict inveftigation of facts, that the affair had taken its rife from die licentious conduct of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole nation, who, imagining themfelves to have been ill treated in their dealings with the traders (which by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this violent method of doing themfelves juftice. The culprits however endeavoured to exculpate themfelves, by affcrting, that they had no defign or intention of robbing the traders of their effects, but meant it only as a threat; and that the traders, from a confeioufneis of tiieir difhonefty, had been terrified and fled, leaving their (lores, which they took pofTer m of, to prevent their being totally loft. This troublefome affair being adjufted, was very agrc.able news to me, as I could now, without ap-prehenfions, afcend this grand river, and vifit its delightful lhores, where and when I pleafed.
Bidding adieu to my obliging friend, I fpread my fail to the favourable breeze, and by noon came to
a-breaft
a-brcaft of fort Picolata; where, being defirous of gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed; but, to my diiappointmcnt, found the fort difmantled and defertcd. This fortrefs is very ancient, and was built by the Spaniards. It is a fquare tower, thirty feet high, inverted with a high wall, without baftions, about breaft high, pierced with loop holes and fur-rounded with a deep ditch. The upper ftory is open on each fide, with battlements, fupporting a cupola or roof: thefe battlements were formerly mounted with eight four pounders, two on each fide.
The works are conftructed with hewn ftone, cemented with lime. The ftone was cut out of quarries on St. Anaftatius Ifland, oppofite St. Auguftine : it is of a pale reddifh brick colour, and a tef-taceous compofition, confifting of fmall fragments of fea-fhells and fine fand. It is well adapted to the conftructing of fortifications. It lies ki horizontal maffes in the quarry, and conftitutes the foundation of that ifland. The caftle at St. Auguftine, and moft of the buildings of the town, are of this ftone.
Leaving Picolata, I continued to afcend the river. I obferved this day, during my progrefs up the river, incredible numbers of fmall flying infects, of the genus termed by naturalifts Ephemera, continually emerging from the fhallow water near fhore, fome of them immediately taking their flight to the land, whilft myriads crept up the grafs and herbage, where remaining for a fhort time, as they acquired fufficient ftrength, they took their flight alfo, following their kindred to the main land. This refurrecTion from the deep, if I may fo ex-, prefs it, commences early in the morning, and ceafes after the fun is up. At evening they are feen in 6 clouds
clollds of innumerable millions, fwarming and wantoning in the dill air, gradually drawing near die river. They defcend upon its furface, and there quickly end their day, after committing their eggs to the deep; which being for a little while toiled about, enveloped in a vifcid fcum, are hatched, and the little Larva defcend into their fecure and dark habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they remain, gradually increafing in fize, until the returning fpring: they then change to a Nymph, when the genial heat brings them, as it were, into exigence, and they again arife into the world. This fly ieems to be delicious food for birds, frogs, and fiih. In the morning, when they arife, and in the evening, when they return, the tumult is great indeed, and the furface of the water along Ihore broken into bubbles, or fpirted into the air, by the contending aquatic tribes; and fuch is the avidity of the fifh and frogs, that they fpring into the air after this delicious prey.
Early in the evening, after a pleafant day's voyage, I made a convenient and fafe harbour, in a little lagoon, under an elevated bank, on the Well ihore of the river; where I fhall entreat the reader's patience, whilft we behold the clofing fcene of the ihort-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each other the reflections which fo fingular an exhibition might rationally fuggeft to an inquifitive mind! Our place of obfervation is happily fituated under the protecting fhade of majeftic Live Oaks, glorious Magnolias, and the fragrant Orange, open to the view of the great river and itill waters of the lagoon juft before us.
At the cool eve's approach, the fweet enchanting
melody
8o
melody of the feathered fongfters gradually ceafes, and they betake themfelves to their leafy coverts for fecurity and repofe.
Solemnly and (lowly move onward, to the river's ihore, the ruffling clouds of the Ephemera, How awful the proceflion! innumerable millions of winged beings, voluntarily verging on to deftruc-tion, to the brink of the grave, where they behold bands of their enemies with wide open jaws, ready to receive them. But as if infenfible of their danger, gay and tranquil each meets his beloved mate in the itill air, inimitably bedecked in their new nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and fluttering on the odoriferous air! With what peace, love, and joy, do they end the laft moments of their exi(fence P
I think we may aiTert, without any fear of exaggeration, that there are annually of thefe beautiful winged beings, which rife into exiitence, and for a few moments take a tranfienc view of the glory of the Creator's works, a number greater than the whole race of mankind that have ever exifted fince the creation ; and that, only from the fhores of this river. How many then muft have been produced fince the creation, when we confider the number of large rivers in America, in comparifon with which, this river is but a brook or rivulet.
The importance of the exiitence of thefe beautiful and delicately formed little creatures, whofe frame and organization are equally wonderful, more delicate, and perhaps as complicated as thofe of the moft perfect human being, is well worth a few moments contemplation; I mean particularly 5 when
when they appear in the fly flate. And if we con-fider the very fhort period of that ftage of exiftence, which we may reasonably fuppofe to be the only ipace of their life that admits of pleafure and enjoyment, what a leffon doth it not afford us of the vanity of our own purfuits!
Their whole exiftence in this world is but one complete year: and at lead three hundred and fixty days of that time they are in the form of an ugly grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under water, and in this condition fcarcely locomotive, as each Larva or grub has but its own narrow folitary cell, from which it never travels or moves, but in a perpendicular progreftion of a few inches, up and down, from the bottom to the furface of the mud, in order to intercept the pafling atoms for its food, and get a momentary refpiration of frefh air; and even here it muft be perpetually on its guard, in order to efcape the troops of fifh and ftirimps watching to catch it, and from whom it has no efcape, but by inftantly retreating back into its cell. One would be apt almoft to imagine them created merely for the food of fifh and other animals.
Having refted very well during the night, I was awakened in the morning early, by the cheering converfe of the wild turkey-cocks (Meleagris occi-dentalis) faluting each other, from the fun-brightened tops of the lofty Cupreftus difticha and Magnolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, and continue till fun rife, from March to the laft of April. The high forefts ring with the rioife, like the crowing of the domeftic cock, of thefe focial centinels; the watch-word being caught and repeated, from one to another, for hundreds of miles •* G around;
TAAVELS IN
around j infomuch that the whole country is for an hour or more in an univerfal ffiout. A little after iumrife, their crowing gradually ccafes, they quit their high lodging places, and alight on the earth, where, expanding their filver bordered train, they ftrut and dance round about the coy female, while the deep forefts feem to tremble with their fluill noife.
This morning the winds on the great river were high and againft me; I was therefore obliged to keep in port a great part of the day, which 1 employed in little excurfions round about my encampment. ..The Live Oaks are of an aftonifhing magnitude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity of timber; yet, comparatively, they are not tall, even in thefe forefts, where growing on ftrong land, in company with others of great altitude (fuch as Fagus fylvatica, Liquidambar, Magnolia grandiflora, and the high Palm tree) they ftrive while young to be upon an equality with their neighbours, and to enjoy the influence of the fun-beams, and of the pure'animating air. But the others at laft prevail, and their proud heads are feen at a great diftance, towering far above the reft> of the forell, which con-fifts chiefly of this fpecies of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus, Acer rubrum, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata, Ilex aquifolium, Olea Americana,- Morus, Gleditfia triacanthus, and, I believe, a fpecies of Sapindus. But the latter fpreads abroad his brawny arms, to a great diftance. The trunk of the Live Oak is generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt, and rifes ten or twelve* feet erect from the earth, fome I have feen eighteen or twenty; then divides itfelf into three, four, or five great limbs,
which
which continue to grow in nearly an horizontal direction, each limb forming a gentle curve, or arch, from its bafe to its extremity. I have ftepped above fifty paces, on a ft rait line, from the trunk of one of thefe trees, to the extremity of the limbs. It is evergreen, and the wood almoft incorruptible, even in the open air. It bears a prodigious quantity of fruit j the acorn is fmall, but fweet-and agreeable to the tafte when roalled, and is food for almoft all animals. The Indians obtain from it a fweet oil, which they ufe in the cooking of hommony, rice, &c.; and they alfo roaft it in hot embers, eating it as we do chehiuts.
The wind being fair in the evening, I fat fail again, a fid crofting the river, made a good harbour on the Eaft fhore, where I pitched my tent for the night. The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen feet perpendicular from its furface, but the afcent gentle. Although I arrived here early in the evening, I found fufficient attractions to choofe it for my lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical employment. It was a high, airy fituation, and commanded an extenfive and varied profpect of the river and its fhores, up and down.
Behold yon promontory, projecting far into the great river, beyond the ftill lagoon, half a mile diftant from me : what a magnificent grove arifes on its banks! how glorious the Palm! how ma-jefticalJy ftands the Laurel, its head forming a perfect cone! its dark green foliage feems filvered over with milk-white flowers. They are fo large, as to be diftinctly vifible at the diftance of a mile or more. The Laurel Magnolias, which grow on this river, are the moft beautiful and tall that I have any where feen, unlefs we except thofe, which (land
G 2 on
on the banks of the Mifhftppi; yet even thefe muft yield to thofe of St. Juan, in neatnefs of form, beauty of foliage, and, I think, in largenef. and fragrance of flower.   Their ufual height is about one hundred feet, and fome greatly exceed that. The trunk is perfectly erect, riling in the form of I I) autiful column, and fupporting a head like an obti fe cone.   The flowers are on the extremities of riie fubdivifions of the branches, in the center of a coronet of dark green, fhining, ovate pointed entire leaves: they are large, perfectly white, and expanded like a full blown Role.   They are poly-petalous, confifling of fifteen, twenty, or twenty-five petals: thefe are of a thick coriaceous texture, and deeply concave, their edges being fomewhat reflex, when mature.    In the center ftands the young c>ne; which is large, of a flefh colour, and elegantly fludded with a gold coloured ftigma, that by the end of fummer is greatly enlarged, and in the autumn ripens to a large crimfon cone or ftrobile, difclofing multitudes of large coral red berries, which for a time hang down from them, fufpended by a fine, white, filky thread, four, fix, or even nine inches in length.   The flowers of dris tree are the largeft and molt complete of any yet known: when fully expanded, they are of fix, eight, and nine inches diameter.   The pericarpium and berries poflefs an agreeable fpicy fccnt, and an aromatic bitter tafle.   The wood when feafoned is of a ft raw colonr, compact, and harder and firmer than that of the poplar.
It is really aflonifhing to behold the Grape-Vines in this place.   From their bulk and ftrength, one would imagine, they were combined to pull down thefe mighty trees'to the earth; when, in fact, 6 amongft
amongft other good purports, they ferve to uphold them. They ave Frequently nine, ten, and twelve inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of the trees, climb to their very tops, and then fpread along their limbs, from tree to tree, throughout the foreft: the fruit is but fmall and ill tafted. The Grape vines, with die Rhamnus volubilis, Bignonia radicans, Bignonia crucigera, and another rambling fhrubby vine, which feems allied to the Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus fcandens, feem to tie the trees together with garlands and feftoons, and form enchanting fhades. The long mofs, fo called, (Tillandfea ufneaoides), is a fingular and furprifing vegetable production: it grows from the limbs and twigs of all trees in thefe fouthern regions, from N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe every where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itfelf, on a limb, or branch, it fpreads into fhort and intricate divarications; thefe in time collect duft, wafted by the wind, which, probably by the moif*. ture it abforbs, fattens the bark and fappy part of the tree, about the roots of the plant, and renders it more fit for it to eftablifh itfelf; and from this fmall beginning, it increafes, by lending downwards and obliquely, on all fides, long pendant branches, which divide and fubdivide themfelves ad infinitum. It is common to find the fpaces betwixt the limbs of large trees, almoft occupied by this plant: it alfo hangs waving in the wind, like ftreamers, from the lower limbs, to the length of fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight, more than feveral men together could carry; and in fome places, cart loads of it are lying on the ground, torn off by the violence of the wind. Any part of the living plant, torn off and caught *n the limbs of a tree, will prefently take root,
G 3 grow,
grow, and increafe, in the fame degree of perfection, as if it had fprung up from the feed. When frefh, cattle and deer will eat it in the winter fea-fon. It feems particularly adapted to the purpofe of fluffing mattrafles, chairs, laddies, collars, &c.; and for thefe purpofes, nothing yet known equals it. The Spaniards in South America and the Weft-Indies, woik it into cables, that are faid to be very ftrong and durable; but, in order to render it ufeful, it ought to be thrown into fhallow ponds of water, and expofed to the fun, where it foon rots, and the outfide furry fubftance is diflblved. It is then taken out of the water, and fpread to dry; when, after a little beating and fhaking, it is fuflicicntly clean, nothing remaining but the interior, hard, black, elaftic filament, entangled together, and greatly re-fembling ho:fe-hair.
The Zanthoxylum clava Herculis alfo grows here. It is a beautiful fpreading tree, and much like a well grown apple tree. Its aromatic berry is delicious food for the little turtle dove; and epicures fay, that it gives their fltfli a fine flavour.
Having finifhed my obfervations, I betook myfelf to reft; and when the plunging and roaring of the crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceafed, I flept very well during the remainder of the night; as a breeze from the river had fcattered the clouds of mufquitoes that at firft infefted me.
It being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I fat fail early, and faw, this day, vaft quantities of the Piftia ftratiotes, a very fingular aquatic plant. It affociates in large communities, or floating iflands, fome of them a quarter of a mile in extent^ which are impelled to and fro, as the wind and current
may
may direct. They are firfb produced on, or clofe to the fhore, in eddy water, where they gradually fpread themfelves into the river, forming moft delightful green plains, feveral miles in length, and in fome places a quarter of a mile in breadth. Thefe plants are nouriihed and kept in their proper horizontal fituation, by means of long fibrous roots, which defcend from the nether center, downwards, towards the muddy bottom. Each plant, when full grown, bears a general refemblance to a well grov.n plant of garden lettuce, though the leaves are more nervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full green colour, inclining to yellow. It vegetates on the furface of the ftill ftagnant water; and in its natural fituation, is propagated. from feed only. In great ftorms of wind and rain, when the river is fuddenly raifed, large maftes of thefe floating plains ate broken loofe, and driven from the fhore:* into the wide water, where they have the appearance of iflets, and float about, until broken to pieces by the winds and waves; or driven again to fhore, on fome diftant coaft of the river, where they again find footing, and there, forming new colonies, fpread and extend themfelves again, until again broken up and dif-perfed as before. Thefe floating iflands prefent a very entertaining profpect; for although we behold an afiemblage of the primary productions of nature Only, yet the imagination feems to remain in fuf-penfe and doubt; as in order to enliven the delufion, and form a moft picturefque appearance, we fee not only flowery plants, clumps of ihrubs, old weather-beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long mofs waving from their fnags, but we alfo fee them completely inhabited, and alive, with crocodiles, ferpents, frogs, otters, crows, herons, curlews, jackdaws, &c, G 4 There
There feems, in fhort, nothing wanted but the appearance of a wigwam and a canoe to complete the fcene.
Keeping along the Weft or Indian fhore, I faw balking, on the fedgy banks, numbers of alligators*,, fome of them of an enormous fize.
The high forefts on this coaft now wore a grand and fublime appearance; the earth rifing gradually from the river weft ward, by eafy fwelling ridges, behind one another, lifting the diftant groves up into the fkies. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the grand laurel magnolia, palma elata, liquidambar ftyraciflua, fagus fylvatica, querci, juglans hiccory, fraxinus, and others.
On my doubling a long point of land, the river appeared furprifingly widened, forming a large bay, of an oval form, and feveral miles in extent. On the Weft fide it was bordered round with low marfhes, and inverted with a fwamp of Cyprefs, the trees fo lofty, as to preclude the fight of the high-land forefts beyond them; and thefe trees, having flat tops, and all of equal height, feemed to be a green plain, lifted up and fupported upon columns in the air, round the Weft fide of the bay.
The cupreflus difticha ftands in the firft order of North American trees. Its majeftic ftature is fur-prifing; and on approaching it, we are ftruck with a kind of awe, at beholding the ftatelinefs of the trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the fkies, and calling a wide fhade upon the ground, as a dark intervening cloud, which, for a time, excludes
* I have made ufc of the terms alligator and crocodile indifcriminatcly forth;:, animal, alligator being the country ium^
the
the rays of the fun.   The delicacy of its colour and texture of its leaves, exceed every thing in vegetation.   It generally grows in the water, or in low flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes, that are covered, great part of the year, with two or three feet depth of water; and that part of the trunk which is fubject to be under water, and four or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged by prodigious buttreifes, or pilafters, which, in full grown trees, project out on every fide, to fuch a diltance, that feveral men might eafily hide themfelves in the hollows between.   Each pilafter terminates under ground, in a very large, itrong, ferpentine root, which ftrikes oft', and branches every way, juft under the furface of the earth: and from thefe roots grow woody cones, called cyprefs knees, four, five, and fix feet high, and from fix to eighteen inches and two feet in diameter at their bales. The large ones are hollow, and lerve very well for beehives; a fmall fpace of the tree itfelf is hollow, nearly as high as the buttreifes already mentioned. From this place, the tree, as it were, takes another beginning, forming a grand ftraight column eighty or ninety feet high, when it divides every way around into an extenfive flat horizontal top, like an umbrella, where eagles have their fecure nefts, and cranes and ftorks their temporary refting places; and what adds to the magnificence of their appearance is the ftreamers of long mofs that hang from the lofty limbs and float in the winds.   This is their majeftic appearance when {landing alone, in large  rice plantations, or thinly planted on the banks of great rivers.
Parroquets are commonly feen hovering and fluttering on their tops: they delight to ihell the
ball;,,
bulls, its feed being their favourite food. Tho trunks of thefe trees, when hallowed out, mak« large and durable pettiaugers and canoes, and afford excellent fhingles, boards, and other timber, adapted to every purpofe in frame buildings. When the planters fell thefe mighty trees, they raife- a fiage round them, as high as to reach above the buttreifes; on this fh.gc, eight or ten negroes afcend with their axes, and fall to work round its iituik. I have feen trunks of thefe trees that would meafure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter, for forty and fifty feet ltraight ihaft.
As I continued coafting the Indian fhore of this bay, on doubling a promontory, I fuddenly faw before me an Indian lettlement, or village. It was a fine fituation, the bank riling gradually from the water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a row, or ftreet, fronting the water, and about fifty yards diftance from it. Some of the youth were naked, up to their hips in the water, nihing with rods and lines; whilft others, younger, were diverting themfelves in fhooting frogs with bov/s and arrows. On my near approach, the little children took to their heels, and ran to fome women who were hoeing corn; but the ftoutcr youth flood their ground, and, fmiling, called to me. As I patied along, I obferved fome elderly people reclined on fkins fpread on the ground, under the cool fliade of fpreading Oaks and Palms, that were ranged' in front of their houfes; they arofe, and eyed me as I paflcd, but perceiving that I kept on without flopping, they refumed their former po-fition. They were civil, and appeared happy in their fituation.
There was a large Orange grove at the upper
end
end of their village j the trees were large, carefully pruned, and the ground under them clean, open, and airy. There feemed to be feveral hundred acres of cleared land about the village; a confiderable portion of which was planted, chiefly with corn (Zea), Batatas* Beans, Pompions, Squafhes (Cucurbita verrucofa), Melons (Cucurbita citrulius), Tobacco (Nicotiana), &c. abundantly fufficient for the inhabitants of the village.
After leaving this village, and coafting a confiderable cove of the lake, I perceived the river before me much contracted within its late bounds, but ftill retaining the appearance of a wide and deep river, both coafts bordered for feveral miles with rich deep fwamps, well timbered with Cyprefs, Afh, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyfta aquatica, Nyfta tupilo, Gordonia lafianthus, Corypha palma, Corypha pumila, 1 /aurus Borbonia, &cc. The river gradually narrowing, I came in fight of Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide, but deep; and as there was a confiderable current againft me, I came here to an anchor. This town was founded by Den. Rolle, efq. and is fituated on a high bluff, on the eaft coaft, fifteen or twenty feet perpendicular from the river, and is in length half a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upper ftratum of the earth confilts entirely of feveral fpecies of frefh water Cochlea?, as Coch. helix, Coch. labyrinthus, and Coch. voluta; the ftcondy of ma-line ihells, as Concha mytulus, Cone, oftrea, Cone, peeton, Haliotis amis marina, Hal. patella, &c. mixed with fea fand ■ and the third, or lower ftratum, which was a little above the common level of the river, of horizontal maffes of a pretty hard rock, compofed almoft entirely of the above fhell, generally whole, and lying in every direction, petrified
trifled or cemented together, with fine white f,-. idj and thefe rocks were bedded in a ftratum of ciay. I law many fragments of the earthen ware of tiie ancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongit the fhells, and mixed with the earth, to a great depth. This high fhelly bank continues, by gentle parallel ridges, near a quarter of a mile bi from the river, gradually diminifhing to the level of the fandy plains, which widen before and on each fide caftward, to a fceminrjly unlimited diftance, and appear green and delightful, being covered with grafs and the Corypha repens, and thinlj lanted with trees of the long leaved, or f^room Pine, and decorated with clumps, or coppices, of floriferous, evergreen, and aromatic fhrubs, and enamelled with patches of the beautiful little Kal ea eiiiata. Thefe Ihelly ridges have a vegetable fill [ace of loofe black mould, very fertile, which naturally produces Orange groves, Live Oak, Laurus B bonia, Pal-ma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, 1 icfuidarnbar, Fraxinus exelfior, Moms rubra, Ulmus, Tilia, Sambucus, Ptelea, Tallow-nut or Y\ ild Lime, and many others. \
Mr. Rolle obtained from the crown a grant of forty thoufand aces of land, in any part of Fall Florida, where the land was unlocated. It feems, his views were to take up his grant near St. Mark's, in the bay of Apalatchi; and he fat fail from England, with about one hundred families, for that place j but by contra.y winds, and ltrefs of weather, he miffed his aim; and being obliged to put into St. Juan's, he, with fome of the principal of his adherents, afcended the river in a boat, and being itruck with it:; majetty, the grand fituations of its batiks, and fertility of its lands, and at the fame time, confidering the extenfive navigation of the
river,
river, and its near vicinity to St. Auguftine, tta capital and feat of government, he altered his views on St. Mark's, and fuddenly determined on this place, where he landed his firft little colony. But it feems, from an ill concerted plan in its infant cftablifliment, negligence, or extreme parfimony in fending proper recruits and' other neceftlirics, together with a bad choice of citizens, the fettle-ment by degrees grew weaker, and at length totally fell to the ground. Thofe of them who efcaped the conftant contagious fevers, fled the dreaded place, betaking themfelves for fubfiftence to the more fruitful and populous regions of Georgia and Carolina.
The remaining old habitations are mouldering to earth, except the manfion houfe, which is a large frame building, of cyprefs wood, yet in tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overfcer and his family-. There is alfo a blackfmith with his fhop and family, at a fmall diftance from it. The moft valuable diftric~l belonging to Mr. Rolle's grant, lies on Dun's lake, and on a little river, which runs from it into St. Juan. This diftricl confifts of a vaft body of rich fwamp land, fit for the growth of rice, and fome very excellent high land furrounding it. Large fwamps of excellent rice land are alfo fituated on the weft fhore of the river, oppofite to Charlotia.
The aborigines of America had a very great town in this place, as appears from the great tumuli, and conical mounts of earth and fhells, and other traces of a fettlement which yet remain. There grew in the old fields on thefe heights, great quantities of callicarpa, and of the beautiful fhrub annona: the flowers of the latter are large, white, and fweet fcented.
Having
Having obtained from the people here directions for difcovering the little remote ifland where the traders and their goods were fccreted, which was about feven miles higher up, I fat fail again, with a fair wind, and in about one hour and an half arrived at the defired place, having fortunately taken the right channel of the river, amongft a multitude of others, occafioned by a number of -low fwampy iflands. But I fhould have run by the landing, if the centinels had not by chance feen me drawing near them; who perceiving that I was a white man, ventured to hail me; upon which I immediately ftruck fail, and came to. Upon my landing they conducted me to their encampment* forty or fifty yards from the river, in an almoft impenetrable thicket. Upon my inquiry, they confirmed the accounts of the amicabie treaty at St. Auguftine, and in confequence thereof, they had already removed great part of the goods to the trading-houfe, which was a few miles higher up, on the Indian Ihore. They fhowed me my cheft, which had been carefully preferved, and upon in-fpeftion I found every thing in good order. Having learned from them, that all the effects would, in a few days time, be removed to the ftore-houfe, I bid adieu to them, and in a little time arrived at the trading-houfe, where I was received with great politenefs, and treated, during a refidence of feveral months, with the utmoft civility and friendihip, by Mr. C. M'Latche, Mefth. Spalding and Kelfall's agent.
The river almoft from Charlotia, and for near twelve miles higher up, is divided into many channels by a great number of iflands.
CHAP.
C HAP. IV.
Having retted myfelf a few days, and by ranging about the neighbouring plains and groves, furround-ing this pleafant place, pretty well recovered my ftrcngth and fpirits, I began to think of planning my future excurfions, at a diftance round about this centre. I found, from frequent conferences with Mr. M'Latche, that I might with fafety extend my journeys every way, and with prudence, even into the towns and fettlements of the Indians, as they were perfectly reconciled to us, and fince rely wifhed for the renewal of our trade.
There were three trading-houles to be eftabliihed this rummer, each of which had its fupplies from the ftore on St. Juan, where I now had my refi-dence, and in which the produce or returns were to centre annually, in order to be fhipped for Savanna or Sunbury, and from thence to Europe.
One of thefe trading-houfes was to be fixed about fixty miles higher up the river, from this place, by the name of Spalding's upper ftore; a fecond at Alachua, about fifty miles weft from the river St. Juan 3 and a third at Talahafochte, a confiderable town of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan, near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred and twenty miles diftance. Each of thefe places I designed to vifit, before the return of the veffel to Frederica in the autumn, that I might avail myfelf of an opportunity fo favourable for tranfport-ing my collections fb far on their way towards < - Helton.
The
The company for Alachua were to fet off in about a month; that to Little St. Juan, in July, which fuited me exceedingly well, as I might make my tour to the upper ftore directly, that part of the country being at this feafon enrobed in its richett and gayelt apparel.
About the middle of May, every tiling being in readincfs to proceed up the river, we fat fail. The traders with their goods in a large boat went a-head, and myfelf in my little veffel followed them; and as their boat was large, and deeply laden, I found that I could eafily keep up with them, and, if I chofe, out-fail them; but I preferred keeping them company, as -well for the fake of collecting what I could from conversation, as on account of my .Safety in eroding the great lake, expecting to return alone, and defcend the river at my own lei Sure.
We had a pleafant day, the wind fair and moderate, and ran by Mount Hope, fo named by my father John Bartram, when he afcended this river, about fifteen years ago. It is a very high fhelly bluff, upon the little lake. It was at that time a fine Orange grove, but now cleared and converted into a large indigo plantation, the property of an Englifh gentleman, under the care of an agent. In the evening we arrived at Mount Royal, where we came to, and ftayed all night: we were treated with great civility, by a gentleman whofe name was ——-Kean, and who had been an Indian trader.
From this place we enjoyed a moft enchanting profpect of the great Lake George, through a grand avenue, if I may fo term this narrow reach of the river, which widens gradually for about two miles,
towards
towards its entrance into the lake, fo as to elude the exact rules of perfpectivc, and appears of an equal width.
At about fifty yards diftance from the landing place, ftands a magnificent Indian mount. About fifteen years ago I vifited this place, at which time there were no fettlements of white people, but all appeared wild and favage; yet in that uncultivated ftate it polfeffed an almoft inexprefiible air of grandeur, which was now entirely changed. At that time there was a very confiderable extent of old fields round about the mount; there was alfo a large orange grove, together with palms and live oaks, extending from near the mount, along the banks, downwards, all of which has fince been cleared away to make room for planting ground. But what greatly contributed towards completing the magnificence of the fcene, was a noble Indian highway, which led from the great mount, on a Straight line, three quarters of a mile, firft through a point or wing of the orange grove, and continuing thence through an awful foreft of live oaks, it was terminated by palms and laurel magnolias, on the verge of an oblong artificial lake, which was on the edge of an extenfive green level favanna. This grand highway was about fifty yards wide, funk a little below the common level, and the earth thrown up on each fide, making a bank of about two feet high. Neither nature nor art could any where prefent a more ftriking contraft, as you approached this favanna. The glittering water.pond played on the fight, through the dark grove, like a brilliant diamond, on the bofom of the illumined favanna, bordered with various flowery fhrubs and plants; and as we advanced into the plain, the
H fight
fight was agreeably relieved by a diftant view of the forefts, which partly environed the green expanfe on the left hand, whilft the imagination was ftill flattered and entertained by the far diftant mifty points of the furrounding forefts, which projected into the plain, alternately appearing and difappearing, making a grand fweep round on the right, to the diftant banks of the great lake. But that venerable grove is now no more. All has been cleared away and planted with indigo, corn, and cotton, but fince de-ferted : there was now fcarcely five acres of ground under fence. It appeared like a defart to a great extent, and terminated, on the land fide, by frightful thickets, and open pine forefts.
It appears, however, that the late proprietor had fome tafte, as he has preferved the mount and this little adjoining grove inviolate. The profpect from this ftation is fo happily fituated by nature, as to comprife at one view the whole of the fublime and pleafing.
At the reanimating appearance of the rifing fun, nature again revives; and I obey the cheerful fum-mons of the gentle monitors of the meads and groves.
Ye vigilant and faithful fervants of the Moft High! ye who worlhip the Creator morning, noon, and eve, in Simplicity of heart! I hafte to join the universal anthem. My heart and voice unite with yours, in fincerc homage to the great Creator, the univejfal fovereign.
O may I be permitted to approach the throne of mercy! May thefe my humble and penitent fuppli-cations, amidft the univerfal fhouts of homage from thy creatures, meet with thy acceptance !
6 And
And nlthough I am fenfible, that my fcrvice cannot increafe or diminifh. thy glory, yet it is pleafing to thy fervant to be permitted to found thy praife; for, O fovereign Lord! we know that thou alone art perfect, and worthy to be worfhipped. O universal Father! look down upon us, we befeech thee, with an eye of pity and companion, and grant that univerfal peace and love may prevail in the earth, even that divine harmony which fills the heavens, thy glorious habitation I
And, O fovereign Lord ! fince it has pleafed thee to endue man with power and pre-eminence here on earth, and eftablilh his dominion over all creatures, may we look up to thee, that our understanding may be fo illuminated with wifdom, and our hearts warmed and animated with a due fenfe of charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will, and perform our duty towards thofe fubmitted to our fervice and protection, and be merciful to them, even as we hope for mercy.
Thus may we be worthy of the dignity and Superiority of the high and diftinguifhed itation in which thou haft placed us here on earth.
The morning being fair, and having a gentle favourable gale, we left our pleafant harbour, in purfuit of our defired port.
Now as we approach the capes, behold the little ocean of Lake George, the diftant circular coaft gradually rifing to view, from his mifty fringed horizon. I cannot entirely fupprefs my apprehen-fions of danger. My veffel at once diminifhed to a nut-Shell on the Swelling Seas, and at the diftance of a few miles, muft appear to the Surprifed
H 2 obferver
obferver as fome aquatic animal, at intervals emerging from its furfice. This lake is a large and beautiful piece of water; it is a dilatation of the river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and generally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, excepting at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar, which carries eight or nine feet water. The lake is beautified with two or three fertile iflands. The firft lies in the bay, as we afcend into the lake, near the weft coaft, about S. W. from Mount Royal, from whence it appears to form part of the weft Shore of the bay. The fecond ifland feems to ride on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile within it. This ifland is about two miles in breadth, and three quarters of a mile where broadeft, moflly high land, well timbered and fertile. The third and laft lies at the fouth end of the lake, and near the entrance of the river; it is nearly circular, and contains but a few acres of land, the earth high and fertile, and almoft an entire orange grove, with grand magnolias and palms.
Soon after entering the lake, the wind blew fo hrifkly from the weft, with thunder-clouds gathering upon the horizon, that we were obliged to feek a flicker from the approaching tempeft, on the large beautiful ifland before mentioned; where, having gained the fouth promontory, we met with an excellent harbour, in which we continued the remaining part of the day and the night. This circum-ftance gave me an opportunity to explore the great-eft part of it.
This ifland appears, from obvious veftiges, to have been once the chofen refidence of an Indian prince, there being to this day evident remains of
a large
a large town of the Aborigines. It was fituated on an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and commanded a comprehensive and charming profpect of the waters, iflands, eaft and weft fhores of the lake, the capes, the bay, and Mount Royal; and to the fouth the view is in a manner infinite, where the fkies and waters feem to unite. On the fite of this ancient town, ftands a very pompous Indian mount, or conical pyramid of earth, from which runs in a ftrait line a grand avenue or Indian highway, through a magnificent grove of magnolias, live oaks, palms, and orange trees, terminating at the verge of a large green level favanna. This ifland appears to nave been well inhabited, as is very evident, from the quantities of fragments of Indian earthenware, bones of animals and other remains, particularly in the ftielly heights and ridges all over the ifland. There are no habitations at prefent on the ifland, but a great number of deer, turkeys, bears, wolves, wild cats, fquirrels, racoons, and opoifums. The bears are invited here to partake of the fruit of the orange tree, which they are immoderately fond of; and both they and turkeys are made extremely fat and delicious, from their feeding on the fweet acorns of the live oak.
There grow on this ifland many curious fhrubs, particularly a beautiful fpecies of lantana (perhaps lint, camerara, Lin. Syft. Veget. p. 473). It grows in coppices in old fields, about five or fix feet high, the branches adorned with rough fer-rated leaves, which fit oppofite, and the twigs terminated with umbelliferous tufts of orange coloured biojloms, which are fucceeded by a clufter of fmall blue berries: the flowers are of various colours, on the fame plant, and even in the fame clufter, as H j crimfon,
crimfon, fcarlet, orange and golden yellow: the whole plant is of a moft agreeable fcent. The orange-flowered fhrub Hibifcus is alfo confpicuoufly beautiful (perhaps Hibifc. fpinifexof Linn.) It grows five or fix feet high, and fubramous. The branches are divergent, and furnifhed with cordated leaves, which are crenated. The flowers are of a moderate fize, and of a deep fplendid yellow. The pe-ricarpii are fpiny. I alfo faw a new and beautiful palmated leaved convolvulus *. This vine rambles over the Shrubs, and ftrolls about on the ground; its leaves are elegantly finuated, of a deep grals green, and fit on long petioles. The flowers are very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate colour, having a deep crimfon eye.
There are fome rich fwamps on the mores of the ifland, and thefe are verged on the outfide with large marfties, covered entirely with tall grafs, ruihes, and herbaceous plants; amongft thefe are feveral fpecies of Hibifcus, particularly the hibifcus coccineus.   This moft ftately of all herbaceous plants grows ten or twelve feet high, branching regularly, fo as to form a Ibarp cone. Thele branches alfo divide again, and are embellifhed with large expanded crimfon flowers.   I have feen this plant of the fize and figure of a beautiful little tree, having at once feveral hundred of thefe fplendid flowers, which may be then feen at a great diftance.    They continue to flower in fucccftion all fummer and autumn, when the ftems wither and decay; but the perennial root fends forth new ftems the next fpring, and fo on for many years. Its leaves are large, deeply and elegantly finuated, having fix or feven very narrow dentated feg-
* Convol. dilTctfus.
ments j
ments; the furface of the leaves, and of the whole plant, is fmooth and polifhed. Another fpecie3 of hibifcus, worthy of particular notice, is like-wife a tall rlourilhing plant; feveral ftrong ftems arife from a root, five, fix, and feven feet high, embellifltied with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered with a fine down on their nether furfaces: the floyrers are very large, and of a deep incarnate colour.
The laft we fhall now mention feems nearly allied to the alcea; the flowers are a fize lefs than die hibifcus, and of a fine damafk rofe colour, and are produced in great profufion on the tall pyramidal ftems.
The lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here, and has a moft Jplendid appearance amidft extenfive meadows of the golden corymbous jacobea (fenecio jacobea) and odorous pancratium.
Having finifhed my tour on this princely ifland, I prepared for repofe. A calm evening had fuc-ceeded the ftormy day. The late tumultuous winds had now ceafed, the face of the lake had become placid, and the fkies ferene; the balmy winds breathed the animating odours of the groves around me; and as I reclined on the elevated banks of the lake, at the foot of a live oak, 1 enjoyed the prof-peel: of its wide waters^ its fringed coafts, and the diftant horizon.
The fquadrons of aquatic fowls, emerging out of the water, and haftening to their leafy coverts on Ihore, clofed the varied fcenes of the paft day, I was lulled afleep by the mixed founds of the wearied H 4 M
furf, lapfing on the hard beaten more, and the tender warblings of the painted nonpareil and other winged inhabitants of the grove.
At the approach of day the dreaded voice of the alligators (hook the ifle, and refounded along the neighbouring coafts, proclaiming the appearance of the glorious fun. I arofe, and prepared to accom-plifli my daily talk. A gentle favourable gale led us out of the harbour: we failed acrofs the lake, and towards evening entered the river on the oppofite fouth coaft, where we made a pleafant and fafe harbour, at a ftielly promontory, the eaft cape of the river on that fide of the lake. It is a moft defirablc fituation, commanding a full view of the Jake. The cape oppofite to us was a vaft cyprefs fwamp, environed by a border of graffy marines, which were projected farther into the lake by floating fields of the bright green piftia ftratoites, which rofe and fell alternately with the waters. Juft to leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the lake is the little round jfland already mentioned. But let us take notice of our harbour and its environs: it is a beautiful little cove, juft within the fandy point, which defends it from the beating furf of the lake. From a Shelly bank, ten or twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we entered a grove of live oaks, palm, magnolia, and orange trees, which grow amongft ftielly hills, and low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground, comprehending the illhmus, and a part of the penin-Sula, which joins it to the graffy plains. This enchanting little foreft is partly encircled by a deep creek; a branch of the river, that has its fource in the high forefts of the main, fouth eaft from us; and winds through the extenfive graffy plains which
furround
furround this peninfula, to an almoft infinite diftance, and then unites its waters with thofe of the river, in this little bay which formed our harbour. This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almoft covered with the leaves of the nymphasa nelumbo: its large fweet-fcented yellow flowers are lifted up two or three feet above the furface of the water, each upon a green ftarol, reprefenting the cap of liberty.
The evening drawing on, and there being no convenient landing place for feveral miles higher up the river, we concluded to remain here all night. Whilft my fellow travellers were employing themfelves in collecting fire-wood, and fixing our camp, I improved the opportunity, in reconnoitering our ground; and taking my fufee with me, I penetrated the grove, and afterwards entered fome almoft unlimited favannas and plains, which were abfolutely enchanting; they had been lately burnt by the Indian hunters, and had juft now recovered their vernal verdure and gaiety.
How happily fituated is this retired fpot of earth! What an elyfium it is! where the wandering Siminolc, the naked red warrior, roams at large, and after the vigorous chafe retires from the fcorching heat of the meridian fun. Here he reclines, and repofes under the odoriferous fhades of Zanthoxy-lon, his verdant couch guarded by the Deity; Liberty, and the Mufes, infpiring him with wifdom and valour, whilft the balmy zephyrs fin him to fteep.
Seduced by thefe fublime enchanting fcenes of primitive nature, and thefe vifions of terreftrial hap-pinefs, I had roved far away from Cedar Point, but
awakening
awakening to my cares, I turned about, and in the evening regained our camp.
On my return, I found fome of my companions nfliing for trout, round about the edges of the floating nymphxa, and not unfuccefsfully, having then caught more man fufficient for us all. As the method of taking thefe filTi is curious and fingular, I fhall juft mention it.
They are taken with a hook and line, but without any bait.   Two people are in a little canoe, one fitting in the flern to fteer, and the other near the bow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, to one end of which is tied a Itrong line, about twenty inches in length, to which are fattened three large hooks, back to back.. Thefe are fixed very fecurely, and covered with the white hair of a deer's tail, lhreds of a red garter, and fome particoloured feathers, all which form a tuft, or tailed, nearly as large as one's fift, and entirely cover and conceal the hooks: this is called a bob.   The fteerfman paddles foftly, and proceeds flowly along fhore, keeping the boat parallel to it, at a diftance juft fuilicient to admit the fiiherman to reach the edge of the floating weeds along more; he now ingeni-oufly fwings the bob backwards and forwards, juft above the furface, and fometimes tips the water with it; when the unfortunate cheated trout inftantly fprings from under the weeds, and feizes the fuppofed prey.   Thus he is caught without a pofti-bility of efcape, unlefs he break the hooks, line, or rod, which he, however, fometimes does by dint of ftrength; but, to prevent this, the nfherman ufed to the fport is careful not to raife the reed fuddenly up, but jerks it inftantly backwards, then fteadily drugs the fturdy reluctant fiih to the fide of the
canoe,
canoe, and with a fudden upright jerk brings him into it.
The head of this fifh makes about one third of his length, and confequently the mouth is very large: birds,' fiih, frogs, and even ferpents, are frequently found in its ftomach.
The trout is of a lead colour, inclining to a deep blue, and marked with tranfverfe waved lifts, of a deep ftate colour, and when fully grown, has a eaft of red or brick colour.   The fins, with the tail, which is large and beautifully formed, are of a light reddilh purple, or fleih colour; the whole body is covered with large fcales. . But what is moft lingular, this fifh is remarkably ravenous; nothing living that he can feize upon efcapes his jaws; and the opening and extending of the branchioftega, at the moment he rifes to the furface to feize his prey, difcovering his bright red gills through the transparent waters, give him a very terrible appearance. Indeed it may be obferved, that all fifh of prey have this opening and covering of the gills very large, in order to discharge the great quantity of water which they take in at their mouth, when they ftrike at their prey.   This fifh is nearly cuneiform, the body tapering gradually from the breaft to the tail, and lightly compreflcd on each fide.   They frequently weigh fifteen, twenty, and thirty pounds, and are delicious food.
My companion, the trader, being defirous of crofting the river to the oppofite fhore, in hopes of getting a turkey, I chofe to accompany him, as it offered a good opportunity to obferve the natural productions of thofe rich fwamps and iflands of the river.   Having crofted the river, which is here
five.
five or fix hundred yards wide, we entered a narrow channel, which, after a ferpcntine courfe for fome miles, rejoins the main river again, above; forming a large fertile ifland, of rich low. land. We landed on this ifland, and foon faw a fine roebuck * at fome diftance from us, who appeared leader of a company of deer that were feeding near him on the verge of a green meadow. My companion parted from me in purfuit of the deer, one way; aad I, obferving a flock of turkeys at fome diftance, on the other, directed my fteps towards them, and with great caution got near them ; when, Angling out a large cock, and being juft on the point of firing, I obferved that feveral young cocks were affrighted, and in their language warned the reft to be on their guard againft an enemy, whom I plainly perceived was induftrioufly making his fub-tile approaches towards them, behind the fallen trunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. This cunning fellow-hunter was a large fat wild cat (lynx): he faw me, and at times feemed to watch my motions, as if determined to feize the delicious prey before me. Upon which I changed my object, and levelled my piece at him. At that inftant, my companion, at a diftance, alfo difcharged his piece at the deer, the report of which alarmed the flock of turkeys; and my ft How-hunter, the cat, fprang over the log and trotted off. The trader alfo milled his deer: thus we foiled each other. By this time it being near night, we returned to camp, where having a delicious meal ready prepared for our hun-r gry ftomachs, we fat down in a circle round our wholefome repaft.
How fupremely bleffed were our hours at this
* Ccrviio Tylvaticus.   The American deer.
time!
time! plenty of delicious and healthful food, our Itomachs keen, with contented minds; under no controul, but what reaion and ordinate paflions dictated, far removed from the feats of ftrife.
Our fituation was like that of the primitive ftate of man, peaceable, contented, and fociable. _ The fimple and neceffary calls of nature being fatisfied, we were altogether as brethren of one family, ftran-gers to envy, malice, and rapine.
The night being over we arofe, and purfued our courfe up the river; and in the evening reached the trading-houfe, Spalding's upper ftore, where I took up my quarters for feveral weeks.
On our arrival at the upper ftore, we found it occupied by a white trader, who had for a companion a very handfome Siminole young woman. Her father, who was a prince, by the name of the White Captain, was an old chief of the Siminoles, and with part of his family, to the number of ten or twelve, was encamped in an orange grove near the ftores, having lately come in from a hunt.
This white trader, foon after our arrival, delivered up die goods and ftore-houfes to my companion, and joined his father-in-law's camp, and foon after went away into the forefts on hunting and trading amongft the flying camps of Siminoles.
He is at this time unhappy in his connexions with his beautiful lavage. It is but a few years fince he came here, I think from North Carolina, a flout genteel well-bred man, active, and of a heroic and amiable dilpofition; and by his induftry, honefty, and engaging manners, had gained the affections of the Indians, and foon made a little fortune by traffic
with
with the Siminoles: when unfortunately meeting' with this little charmer, they were married in the Indian manner. He loves-her fincerely, as fhe pof-feffes every perfection in her perfon to render a man happy. Her features are beautiful, and manners engaging. Innocence, modefty, and love, appear to a Stranger in every action and movement; and thefe powerful graces fhe has fo artfully played upon her beguiled and vanquifhed lover, and unhappy Have, as to have already drained him of all his pof-fethons, which me difhoneftly distributes amongft her favage relations. He is now poor, emaciated, and half diffracted, often threatening to moot her, and afterwards put an end to his own life; yet he has not refolution even to leave her; but now endeavours to drown and forget his throws in deep draughts of brandy. 1 Ier father condemns her dif-honelt and cruel conduct.
Thefe particulars were related to me by my old friend the trader, directly after a long conference which he had with the White Captain on the fubject, his fon-in-law being prefent. The fcene was affecting; they both fhed tears plentifully. My reafons for mentioning this affair, fo foreign to my bufinefs, was to exhibit an inltance of the power of beauty in a favage, and her art and fineffe in improving it to her private ends. It is, however, but doing juftice to the virtue and moral conduct of the Siminoles, and American aborigines in general, to obferve, that the character of this woman is condemned and deteltcd by her own people of both fcxes; and if her hufband fhould turn her away, according to the cuftoms andufages of thefe people, fhe would not get a hufband again, as a divorce feldom takes place but in confequence of a deliberate
rate impartial trial, and public condemnation, and th<E i Ihe would be looked upon as a harlot.
Such is the virtue of thefe untutored favages: but I am afraid this is a common phrafe epithet, having no meaning, or at lean: improperly applied ; for thefe people are both well tutored and civil; and it is apparent to an impartial obferver, who rcfides but a little time amongft them, that it is from the moft delicate fenfe of the honour and reputation of their tribes and families, that their laws and cuftoms receive their force and energy. This is the divine principle which influences their moral conduct, and iblely preferves their conftitution and civil government in that purity in which they are found to prevail amongft them.
chap,
C H A P. V.
Being defirous of continuing my travels and ob-fervations higher up the river, and having an invitation from a gentleman who was agent for, and refident at, a large plantation, the property of an Englifh gentleman, about fixty miles higher Up, I refolved to purfue my refearches to that place; and having engaged in my fervice a young Indian, nephew to the White Captain, he agreed to aflift me in working my veffel up as high as a certain bluff, where I was, by agreement, to land him, on the Weft or Indian Shore, whence he defigned to go in queft of the camp of the White Trader, his relation.
Provifions and all ncceffaries being procured, and the morning pleafant, we went on board and flood up the river. We palled for feveral miles on the left, by iflands of high fwamp land, exceedingly fertile, their banks for a'good diftance from the water, much higher than the interior part, and fuffi-ciently fo to build upon, and be out of the reach of inundations. They conlift of a loofe black mould, with a mixture of fand, (hells, and diftblved vegetables. The oppofite Indian coaft is a perpendicular bluff, ten or twelve feet high, confining of a black fandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of fhelh, chiefly various fpecies of freih water cochlear and mytuli. Near the river, on this high ihore, grew corypha palma, magnolia grandiflora, live oak, callicarpa, myrica cerifera, hybifcus fpinifex, and the beautiful evergreen fhrub. called wild lime or tallow nut. This laft fhrub grows fix or eight feet high, many erect ftems fpring from a root;
the
the leaves are lanceolate and entire, two or three inches in length and one in breadth, of a deep green colour, and polifhed ; at the foot of each leaf grows a Stiff fharp thorn; the flowers are fmall and in clutters, of a greenifh yellow colour, and fweet feen ted; they are Succeeded by a huge oval fruit, of the fhape and fize of an ordinary plumb, of a fine yellow colour when ripe; a (oft fweet pulp covers a nut which has a thin fhell, enclofing a white kernel fomewhat of the confluence and tafle of the fweet almond, but more oily and very much like hard tallow, which induced my father when he firft obferved it, to call it the tallow-nut.
At the upper end of this bluff is a fine orange grove. Here my Indian companion requefted me to fet him on fhore, being already tired of rowing under a fervid fun, and having for fome time intimated a diflike to his fituation. I readily complied with his defire, knowing the impoflibility of compelling an Indian againft his own inclinations, or even prevailing upon him by reafonable arguments, when labour is in the queftion. Before my veffel reached the fhore, he fprang out of her and landed, when uttering a fhrill and terrible whoop, he bounded off like a roebuck, and I loft light of him. I at firft apprehended, that as he took his gun with him, he intended to hunt for fome game and return to me in the evening. The day being exceffively hot and fultry, I concluded to take up my quarters here until next morning.
The Indian not returning this morning, I fat fail alone. The coafls on each fide had much the fame appearance as already defcribed. The palm trees here feem to be of a different fpecies from the cabbage tree; their jCtraight trunks are fixty, eighty, or ninety
1 feet
feet high, with a beautiful taper, of a bright afh colour, until within fix or feven feet of the top, where it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of rich green plumed leaves : I have meafured the ftem of thefe plumes fifteen feet in length, befides the plume, which is nearly of the fame length.
The little lake, which is an expanfion of the river, now appeared in view; on the eaft fide are extenfive marines, and on the other, high forefts and orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vaft cyprefs fwamps, both coafts gradually approaching each other, to the opening of the river again, which is in this place about three hundred yards wide. Evening now drawing on, I was anxious to reach fome high bank of the river, where I intended to lodge; and agreeably to my wtfhes, 1 foon after difcovered on the weft Ihore a little promontory, at the turning of the river, contracting it here to about one hundred and fifty yards in width.   This promontory is a peninfula, containing about three acres of high ground, and is one entire orange grove, with a few live oaks, magnolias and palms.   Upon doubling the point, I arrived at the landing, which is a circular harbour, at the foot of the bluff, the top of which is about twelve feet high; the back of it is a large cyprefs fwamp, that fpreads each way, the right wing forming the weft coaft of the little lake, and the left ftretching up the river many miles, and en-compafling a vaft fpace of low graffy marlhes. From this promontory, looking eaftward acrofs the river, I beheld a landfcape of low country, unparalleled as I think; on the left is the eaft coaft of the little lake, which I had juft pafted; and from the orange bluff at the lower end, the high forefts begin, and increafe in breadth from the fhore of the lake, mak-8 ing
ing a circular fweep to the right, and contain many hundred thoufand acres of meadowand this grand fweep of high forefts encircles, as I apprehend, at lead twenty miles of thefe green fields, interiperfed with hommocks or iflets of evergreen trees, where the fovereign magnolia and lordly palm ftand confpicuous. The iflets are high fhelly knolls, on the fides of creeks or branches of the river, which wind about and drain off the fuper-abundant waters that cover thefe meadows 'luring the winter feafon.
The evening was temperately cool and calm. The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncommon numbers along the fhores and in the river. 1 fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmoft projection of the promontory, under the fhelter of a large live oak, which flood on the higheft part of the ground, and but a few yards from my boat. From this open, high fituation, I had a free prof-peel of the river, which was a matter of no trivial confideration to me, having good reafon to dread the fubtle attacks of the alligators, who were crowding about my harbour. Having collected a good quantity of wood for the purpofe of keeping up a light and fmoke during the night, I began to think of preparing my fupper, when, upon examining my (lores, I found but a fcanty provilion. I thereupon determined, as the moft expeditious way ofp fupply-ing my neceftities, to take my bob and try for fome trout. About one hundred yards above my harbour began a cove or bay of the river, out of which opened a large lagoon. The mouth or entrance from the river to it was narrow, but the waters foon after fpread and formed a little lake, extending into the marfhes: its entrance and fhores with*
I 2 in
in I obferved to be verged with floating lawns of the piftia and nymphea and other aquatic plants; thefe I knew were excellent haunts for trout.
The verges and iilets of the lagoon were elegantly embeilifhcd with flowering plants and fhrubs; the laughing coots with wings half fpread were tripping over the little coves and hiding themfelves in the tufts of grafs j young broods of the painted fummer teal, fkimming the ttiil furface of the waters, and following the watchful parent- unconfeious of danger, were frequently furprifed by the voracious trout; and he, in turn, as often by the fubtle greedy alligator. Behold him ruffling forth from ihe flags and reeds. His enormous body fwells, 1 lis plaited tail brandifhed high, floats upon the lake. The waters like a cataract defcend from his Opening jaws. Clouds of fmokc iflue from his dilated noftrils. The earth trembles with his thunder. When immediately from the oppofite coaft of the lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion. They fuddenly dart upon each other. The boiling furface of the lake marks their rapid courfe, and. a terrific conflict commences. They now fink to the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The water becomes thick and difcoloured, Again they rife, their jaws clap together, re-echoing through the deep furrounding forefts. Again they fink, when the conteft ends at the muddy bottom of the lake, and the vanquifhed makes a hazardous efcape, hiding himfelf in the muddy turbulent waters and fedge on a diftant fhore. The proud victor exulting returns to the place of action. The fhores and forefts refbund his dreadful roar, together with the triumphing fhouts of the plaited tribes around, witneifes of the horrid combat.
My
My apprehenfions were highly alarmed afcer being a fpectator of fo dreadful a battle. It was obvious that every delay would but tend to encreafe my dangers and difficulties, as the fun was near letting, and the alligators gathered around my harbour from all quarters. From thefe confiderations I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the lagoon, in order to take fome fiih. Not thinking it prudent to take my ftifee with me, left I might lofe it overboard in cafe of a battle, which I had every reafon to dread before my return, I therefore furnifhed myfelf with a club for my defence, went on board, and penetrating the firft line of thofe which furrounded my harbour, they gave way; but being purfued by feveral very large ones, I kept ftri6tly on the watch, and paddled with all my might towards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to be fheltered there from the multitude of my allailants; but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attacked on all fides, feveral endeavouring to overfet the canoe. My fituation now became precarious to the laft degree: two very large ones attacked me clofe -ly, at the fame inltant, rufhing up with their heads and part of their bodies above the water, roaring terribly and belching floods of water over me. They ftruck their jaws together fo clofe to my ears, as almoft to ftun me, and I expected every moment to be dragged out of the boat and inftantly devoured. But I applied my weapons fo effectually about me, though at random, that I was fo fuccefsful as to beat them off a little 5 when, finding that they de-flgned to renew the battle, I made for the fhore, as the only means left me for my prefervation; for, by keeping clofe to it, I fhould have my enemies on one fide of me only, whereas I was before furrounded by them j and there was a probability, if pufhed
I 3 10
to the laft extremity, of faving myfelf, by jumping out of the canoe on fhore, as it is eafy to outwalk them on land, although comparatively as Swift as lightning in the water.   I found this laft expedient alone could fully anfwer my expectations, for as foon as I gained the fhore, they drew off and kept aloof.   This was a happy relief, as my confidence was, in fome degree, recovered by it.   On recollecting myfelf, I difcovered that I had almoft reached the entrance of the lagoon, and determined to venture in, if poftible, to take a few fifh, and then return to my harbour, while day-light continued; for I could now, with caution and refolution, make my way with fafety along Ihore •> and indeed there was no other way to regain my camp, without leaving my boat and making my retreat through the marfhes and reeds, which, if I could even effect, would have been in a manner throwing myfelf away, for then there would have been no hopes of ever recovering my bark, and returning in fafety to any Settlements of men.   I accordingly proceeded, and made good my entrance into the lagoon, though not without oppofition from the alligators, who formed a line acrofs the entrance, but did not purfue me into it, nor was I molefted by any there, though there were fome very large ones in a cove at the upper end.   I foon caught more trout than I had prefent occafion for, and the air was too hot and fultry to admit of their being kept for many hours, even though Silted or barbecued.   I now prepared for my return to camp, which I fucceeded in with but little trouble,  by keeping clofe to the fhore; yet I was oppofed upon re-entering the river out of the lagoon, and purfued near to my landing (though not clofely attacked), particularly by an old daring one, about twelve feet in length,
who
who kept clofe after me; and when I ftepped on fhore and turned about, in order to draw up my canoe, he ruined up near my feet, and lay there for fome time, looking me in the face, his head and {boulders out of water. I rcfolved he fhould pay for his temerity, and having a heavy load in my fu-fee, I ran to my camp, and returning with my piece, found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat, in fearch of fifh. On my coming up he withdrew fullenly and flowly into the water, but foon returned and placed himfelf in his former pofition, looking at me, and feeming neither fearful nor any way diflurbed. I foon difpatched him by lodging the contents of my gun in his head, and then proceeded to cleanfe and prepare my fifh for fupper; and accordingly took them out of the boat, laid them down on the fand clofe to the water, and began to fcale them; when, raifing my head, I law before me, through the clear water, the head and fhoulr ders of a very large alligator, moving flowly towards me. I inftantly ftepped back, when, with a fweep of his tail, he bruthed off feveral of my fiih. U was certainly moft providential that I looked up,at that inftant, as the monfter would probably, in lefs than a minute, have feized and dragged me into the river. This incredible boldnefs of the animal dif-turbed me greatly, fuppoiing there could now be no reafonable fafety for me during the night, but by keeping continually on the watch: I therefore, as foon as I had prepared the fifh, proceeded to fecure myfelf and effects in the beft manner I could. In the firft place, I hauled my bark upon the fhore, almoft clear out of the water, to prevent their overfetting or finking her; after this, every moveable was taken out and carried to my camp?
I 4 which,
which was but a few yards off; then ranging fome dry wood in fuch order as was the moft convenient, I cleared the ground round about it, that there might be no impediment in my way, in cafe of an attack in the night, either from the water or the land; for I difcovered by this time, that this fmall ifthmus, from its remote fituation and fruitfulnefs, was re-forted to by bears and wolves. Having prepared myfelf in the beft manner I could, I charged my gun and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the adjacent grounds; when I difcovered that the pe-ninfula and grove, at the diftance of about two hundred yards from my encampment, on the land fide, were inverted by a cyprefs fwamp, covered with water, which below was joined to the fhore of the little lake, and above to the marfhes furrounding the lagoon; fo that I was confined to an iftet exceedingly circumfcribed, and I found there was no other retreat for me, in cafe of an attack, but by either afcending one of the large oaks, or pufhing off with my boat.
It was by this time dufk, and the alligators had nearly ceafed their roar, when I was again alarmed by a tumultuous noife that feemed to be in my harbour, and therefore engaged my immediate attention. Returning to my camp, I found it undif-turbcd, and then continued on to the extreme point of the promontory, where I faw a fcene, new and furprifmg, which at firft threw my fenfes into fuch a tumult, that it was fome time before I could com-preh end what was the matter; however, I foon accounted for the prodigious afiemblage of crocodiles at this place, which exceeded every thing of the kind I had ever heard of.
How fhall I exprefs myfelf fo as to convey an
adequate
adequate idea of it to the reader, and at the fame time avoid railing fufpicions of my veracity. Should I fay, that the river (in this place) from more to fhore, and perhaps near half a mile above and below me, appeared to be one folid bank of fifh., of various kinds, pulhing through this narrow pafs of St. Juan's into the little lake, on their return down the river, and that the alligators were in fuch incredible numbers, and fo clofe together from ihore to ihore, that it would have been eafy to have walked acrofs on their heads, had the animals been harmlefs ? What expreifions can Sufficiently declare the fhocking fcene that for fome minutes continued, whilft this mighty army of fifh were forcing the pafs ? During this attempt, thoufands, I may fay hundreds of thoufands, of them were caught and Swallowed by the devouring alligators. I have feen an alligator take up out of the water feveral great fifh at a time, and juft Squeeze them betwixt his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped about his eyes and lips, ere he had Swallowed them. The horrid noiSe of their clofing jaws, their plunging amidil the broken banks of fifh, and fifing with their prey fome feet upright above the water, the floods of water and blood rufhing out of their mouths, and the clouds of vapour iffuing from their wide noltrils, were truly frightful. This fcene continued at intervals during the night, as the fifh came to the pafs. After this fight, mocking and tremendous as it was, I found myfelf Somewhat ea-Sier and more reconciled to my fituation; being convinced that their extraordinary affemblage here was owing to this annual feaft of fiih ; and that they were fo well employed in their own element, that I had little occafion to fear their paying me a vifit.
5 It
It being now almoft night, I returned to my camp, where I had left my fifh broiling, and my kettle of rice ftewing; and having with me oil, pepper, and fait, and excellent oranges hanging in abundance over my head (a valuable fubftitute for vinegar) I fat down and regaled myfelf cheerfully. Having finilhed my repaft, I rekindled my fire for light, and whilft I was reviling the notes of my paft day's journey, I was fuddenly roufed with a noifc behind me toward the main land.   I fprang up on my feet, and liftening, I diftinctly heard fome creature wading in the water of the ifthmus.   I feized my gun and went cautioufly from my camp, directing my fteps towards the noife: when I had advanced about thirty yards, I halted behind a coppice of orange trees, and foon perceived two very large bears, which had made their way through the water, and had landed in the grove, about one hundred yards diftance from me, and were advancing towards me.   I waited until they were within thirty yards of me: they there began to fnuff and look towards my camp: I fnapped my piece, but it flaftied, on which they both turned about and galloped off, plunging through the water and fwamp, never halting, as I fuppofe, until they reached faft land, as I could hear them leaping and plunging a long time. They did not prefume to return again, nor was I molefted by any other creature, except being occa-fionally awakened by the whooping of owls, fcream-jing of bitterns, or the woocj-rats running amongft the leaves.
The wood-rat is a very curious animal. It is not half the fize of the domeftic rat; of a dark brown or black colour; its tail flender and Shorter in proportion, and covered thinly with fhort hair.
It is fingular with refpect to its ingenuity and great labour in the conftruction of its habitation, which is a conical pyramid about three or four feet high, conftructed with dry brandies, which it collects with great labour and perfeverance, and piles up without any apparent order; yet they are fo interwoven with one another, that it would take a bear or wild-cat fome time to pull one of thefe caftles to pieces, and allow the animals fufficient time to fecure a retreat with their young.
The noife of the crocodiles kept me awake the greater part of the night j but when I arofe in the morning, contrary to my expectations, there was perfect peace; very few of them to be feen, and thofe were afleep on the fhore.   Yet I was not able to fuppicfs my fears and apprehenfions of being attacked by them in future; and indeed yefterday's combat with them, notwithstanding I came off in a manner victorious, or at leaft made a fafe retreat, had left fufficient impreffion on my mind to damp my couragej and it feemed too much for one of my ftrength, being alone in a very fmall boat, to encounter fuch collected danger.   To purfue my voyage up the river, and be obliged every evening to pafs fuch dangerous defiles, appeared to me as perilous as running the gauntlet betwixt two rows of Indians armed with knives and firebrands. I however refolved to continue my voyage one day longer, if I pofhbly could with fafety, and then return down the river, fhould I find the like difficulties to oppofe.   Accordingly I got every thing on board, charged my gun, antl fet fail cautioufly, along fhore.   As I palfed by Battle lagoon, I began to tremble and keep a good look out; when fuddenly a huge alligator rulhed out of the reeds, and
with
with a tremendous roar came up, and darted as fwift as an arrow under my boat, emerging upright on my lee quarter, with open jaws, and belching water and fmoke that fell upon me like rain in a hurricane. I laid ibundly about his head with my club and beat him off; and after plunging and darting about my boat, he went off on a ftraight fine through the water, feemingly with the rapidity of lightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon. I now employed my time to the very bed advantage in paddling clofe along fhore, but could not forbear looking now and then behind me, and prefently perceived one of them coming up again. The water of the river hereabouts was fhoal and very clear; the monfter came up with the ufual roar and menaces, and paffed clofe by the fide of my boat, when I could diftinctly fee a young brood of alligators, to the number of one hundred or more, following after her in a long train. They kept clofe together in a column without draggling off to the one fide or the other; the young appeared to be of an equal fize, about fifteen inches in length, almoft black, with pale yellow tranfverfe waved clouds or blotches, much like rattlefnakes in colour. I now loft fight of my enemy again.
Still keeping clofe along fhore, on turning a point or projection of the river bank, at once I beheld a great number of hillocks or fmall pyramids, refembling hay-cocks, ranged like an encampment along the banks. They flood fifteen or twenty yards diftant from the water, on a high marfh, about four feet perpendicular above the water. 1 knew them to be the nefts of the crocodile, having had a defcription of them before; and now expected a furious and general attack, as I faw feveral large crocodiles
codiles fwimming abreaft of thefe buildings. Thefe nefts being fo great a curiofity to me, I was determined at all events immediately to land and examine them. Accordingly, I ran my bark on fhore ac one of their landing-places, which was a fort of nick or little dock, from which afcended a Hoping path or road up to the edge of the meadow, where their nefts were; moft of them were deferred, and the great thick whitifh egg-fhells lay broken and Scattered upon the ground round about them.
The nefts or hillocks are of the form of an obtufe cone, four feet high and four or five feet in diameter at their bales; they are constructed with mud, grafs, and herbage. At firft they lay a floor of this kind of tempered mortar on the grourid, upon which they depofit a layer of eggs, and upon this a ftratum of mortar Seven or eight inches in thickneSs, and then another layer of eggs, and in this manner one ftratum upon another, nearly to the top. I believe they commonly lay from one to two hundred eggs in a neft: thefe are hatched, I fuppofe, by the heat of the fun; and perhaps the vegetable fub-ftances mixed with the earth, being acted upon by the fun, may caufe a fmall degree of fermentation, and fo increafe the heat in thofe hillocks. The ground for feveral acres about thefe nefts Shewed evident marks of a continual refort of alligators; the grafs was every where beaten down, hardly a blade or Straw was left Standing; whereas, all about, at a diftance, it was five or fix feet high, and as thick as it could grow together. The female, as I imagine, carefully watches her own neft of eggs until they are all hatched; or perhaps while fhe is attending her own brood, fhe takes under her care and protection as many as fhe can get at one time, either
ther from her own particular neft of others: but certain it is, that the young are not left to fhift for themfelves ; for I have had frequent opportunities of feeing the female alligator leading about the fhores her train of young ones, juft as a hen does her brood of chickens; and fhe is equally aftiduous and courageous in defending the young, which are under her care, and providing for their fubfiftence; and when fhe is bafking upon the warm banks, with her brood around her, you may hear the young ones continually winning and barking, like young puppies. 1 believe but few of a brood live to the years of full growth and magnitude, as the old feed on the young as long as they can make prey of them.
The alligator when full grown is a very large and terrible creature, and of prodigious ftrength, activity, and fwiftnefs in the water. I have feen them twenty feet in length, and fome are fuppofed to be twenty-two or twenty-three feet. Their body is as large as that of a horfe; their fhape exactly refembles that of a lizard, except their tail, which is flat or cuneiform, being compreffed on eacli fide, and gradually diminishing from the abdomen to the extremity, which, with the whole body is covered with horny plates or iquamma?, impenetrable when on the body of the live animal, even to a rifle ball, except about their head and juft behind their fore-legs or arms, where it is faid they are only vulnerable. The head of a full grown one is about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly the fame length; their eyes are fmall in proportion and feem funk deep in the head, by means of the prominency of the brows; the noftrils are large, inflated and prominent on the top, fo that the head in  the water refembles, at a diftance, a great
chunk
chunk of* wood floating about/ Only the upper jaw moves, which they raife almoft perpendicular, fo as to form a right angle with the lower one. In the fore-part of the upper jaw, on each fide, juft under the nofti ils, arc two very large, thick, ftrong teeth or tufks, not very fharp, but rather the fbape of a cone : thefe are as white as the fineft polifhed ivory, and are not covered by any fkin or lips, and always in fight, which gives the creature a frightful appearance: in the lower jaw are holes oppofite to thefe teeth, to receive them: when they clap their jaws together it caufes a furprifing noife, like that which is made by- forcing a heavy plank with violence upon the ground, and may be heard at a great diftance.
But what is yet more furprifing to a ftranger, is the incredible loud and terrifying roar, which they are capable of making, efpecially in the fpring fea-fon, their breeding time. It moft refembles very heavy diftant thunder, not only (halting the air and waters, but caufing the earth to tremble ; and when hundreds and thoufands are roaring at the fame time, you can fcarcely be perfuadetl, but that the whole globe is violently and dangeroufiy agitated.
An old champion, who is perhaps abfolute fovereign of a little lake or lagoon (when fifty lefs than himfelf are obliged to content themfelves with fwell-ing and roaring in little coves round about) darts forth from the reedy coverts all at once, on the furface of the waters, in a right line; at firft feem-ingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more flowly until he arrives at the center of the lake, when he flops. He now fwells himfelf by drawing in wind and water through his mouth, which caufes a loud
fonorous
fonorous rattling in the throat for near a minute, but it is immediately forced out again through his mouth and noftrils, with a loud noife, brandifhing his tail in the air, and the vapour afcending from his noltrils like fmoke. At other times, when Swollen to an extent ready to burfr, his head and tail lifted up, he Spins or twirls round on the furface of the water. He acts his part like an Indian chief when rehearfing his feats of war; and then retiring, the exhibition is continued by others who dare to Step forth, and Strive to excel each other, to gain the attention of the favourite female.
Having gratified my curiofity at this general breeding-place and nurfery of crocodiles, I continued my voyage up the river without being greatly disturbed by them. In my way I obferved iflets or floating fields of the bright green Piitia, decorated with other amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Per-ficaria amphibia, Coreopfis bidens, Hydrocotyle flui-tans, and many others of lefs note.
The fwamps on the banks and iflands of the river are generally three or four feet above the furface of the water, and very level; the timber large and growing thinly, more fo than what is obferved to be in the fwamps below lake George; the black rich earth is covered with moderately tall, and very Succulent tender graSs, which when chewed is Sweet and agreeable to the tatle, Somewhat like young Sugarcane : it is a jointed decumbent grafs, fending out radicular at the joints into the earth, and fo Spreads itfelf, by creeping over its furface.
The large timber trees, which poSfefs the low lands, are Acer rubrum, Ac. negundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus fylvatica, Fraxinus excelnor, Frax. aquatica, Ulmus
fuberifer,
fuberifer, Gleditfra monofperma, Gledit. triacan-tlnis, Diofpyros Virginica, NyfJa aquatica, NylTa fylvatica, juglans cinerea, Quercus dentata, Quercus phillos, Hopea tinetoria, Corypha palma, Moms rubra, and many more. The palm grows on the edges of the banks, where they are raifed higher than the adjacent level ground, by the accumulation of land, river-ffiells, &c, I palled along feveral miles by thofe rich fwamps: the channels of the river which encircle the feveral fertile iflands I had palled, now uniting, formed one deep channel near three hundred yards over. The banks of the river on each fide, began to rife and prefent flielly bluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange groves, Laurels and Live Oaks. And now appeared in fight, a tree that claimed my whole attention: it was the Carica papaya, both male and female, which were in flower; and the latter both in flower and fruit, fome of which were ripe, as large, and of the form of a pear, and of a moft charming appearance.
This admirable tree is certainly the moft beautiful of any vegetable production I know of; the towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, indeed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but not in elegance, delicacy, and gracefulnefs. It rifes erect to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, with* a perfectly Straight tapering ftem, which is fmooth and poli flied, of a bright afh colour, refembling leaf filver, curiouliy inferibed with the footfteps of the fallen leaves; and thefe veftiges are placed in a very regular uniform imbricated order, which has a fine effect, as if the little column were elegantly carved all over. Its perfectly fpherical top is formed of very large lobe-finuate leaves, fupported on very long footftalks; the lower leaves are the largeft as well as their petioles the longeft, and make
K a graceful
a-graceful fweep or llourilh, like the long J or the branches of a fconce candleftick. The ripe and green fruit are placed round about the Item or trunk, from the lowermoft leaves, where the ripe fruit are, and upwards almoft to the top ; the heart or inmoft pithy part of the trunk is in a manner hollow, or at beft confifts of very thin porous medullar or membranes. The tree very feldom branches or divides into limbs, I believe never unlets the top is by accident broke off when very young: I faw one which had two tops or heads, the ftem of which divided near the earth. It is always green, ornamented at die fame time with flowers and fruit, which like figs come out fingly from the trunk or ftem.
After refting and refreshing myfelf in thefe delightful fhades, I left them with reluctance. Embarking again after the fervid heats of the meridian fun was abated, for fome time I paffed by broken ridges of fhelly high land, covered with groves of Live Oak, Palm, Olea Americana, and Orange trees; frequently obferving floating iflets and green fields of the Piltia near the fhores of the river and Jagoons.
Here is in this river and in the waters all over Florida, a very curious and handfome fpecies of birds; the people call them Snake Birds; I think I have feen paintings of them on the Chinefe fcreens and other India pictures: they feem to be a fpecies of cormorant or loon (Co]ymbus"Vauda elongata), but far more beautiful and delicately formed than any other fpecies that I have ever feen. The head and neck of this bird are extremely fmall and flender, the latter very long indeed, almoft out of all proportion; the bill long, ftraig'ut, and flender, 3 tapering
tapering from its ball to a fliarp point; all the upper fide, the abdomen and thighs, are as black and gloffy as a raven's, covered with feathers fo firm and elaflic, that they in fome degree refemble fifh-fcales; the breaft and upper part of the belly are covered with feathers of a cream colour; the tail is very long, of a deep black, and tipped with a filvery-white, and when fpread, reprefents an unfurled fan. They delight to fit in little peaceable communities, on the dry limbs of trees, hanging over the ftill waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I fuppofe to cool and air themfelves, when at the lame time they behold their images in the watery mirrour. At fuch times, when we approach them, they drop off the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute or two are not to be feen; when on a hidden, at a vaft diftance,  their long flender head and neck only appear, and have very much the appearance of a fnake, and no other part of them is to be feen when fwimming in the water, except fometimes the tip end of their tail.   In the heat of the day they are feen in great numbers, failing veiy high in the air, over lakes and rivers.
I doubt not but if this bird had been an inhabitant of the Tiber in Ovid's days, it would have furnifhed him with a fubject for fome beautiful and entertaining metamorphofes, I believe it feeds intirely on fifh, for its flefli fmells and taftes intolerably ftrong of it; it is fcarcely to be eaten unlefs conftrained by infufferable hunger.
I had now fwamps and marfhes on both fides of me; and evening coming on apace, 1 began, to look out for high land to encamp on; but the extenfive marfhes feemed to have no bounds, and it was almoft dark when I found a tolerably Suitable place,
K 2 and
and at laft was conflrained to take up with a narrow [trip ot high fhelly bank, on the weft fide. Great numbers of crocodiles were in fight on both fhores. 1 ran my bark on fhore at a perpendicular bank four or five feet above the water, juft by the roots and under the fpreading limbs of a great Live Oak: this appeared to have been an ancient camping place by Indians and ftrolling adventurers, from aih heaps and old rotten fire brands and chunks, Scattered about on the furface of the ground; but was now evidently the harbour and landing place of fome fovereign alligator: there led up from it a deep beaten path or road, which was a convenient" afcent.
I did not approve of my intended habitation from thefe circumftances j and no fooner had I landed and moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than I faw a huge crocodile rifing up from the bottom clofe by me, who, when he perceived that I faw him, plunged down again under my veffel. This determined me to be on my guard, and in time to provide againft a troublefome night. I took out of my boat every moveable, which I carried upon the bank; then ehofe my lodging clofe to mv canoe, under the fpreading Oak, as hereabouts only, the ground was open and cleat of high grafs and bufhes, and confequently I had fome room to ftir and look round about. I then proceeded to collect: firewood, which I found difficult to procure. Here were {binding a few Orange trees. As for provifions, I had faved one or two barbecued trout, the remains of my laft evening's collection, in tolerable good order, though the Sultry heats of the day had injured them ; yet by ftewing them up afrefh with the lively juice of Oranges, they ferved well enough for my flipper, as I had by this time but little reliih or appetite
tite for my victuals; for conftant watching at night againft the attacks of alligators, flinging of muf-quitoes and fultry heats of the day ; together widi the fatigues of working my bark, had almoft deprived me of every defire but that of ending my troubles as fpeedily as poflible. I had the good fortune to collect together a fuffkiency of dry flicks to keep up a light and fmoke, which I laid by me, and then fpread my fkins and blankets upon the ground, kindled up a little fire, and flipped before it was quite dark. The evening was however extremely pleafant; a brifk cool breeze iprang up, and the fkies were perfectly ferene, the ftars twinkling with uncommon brilliancy. I ftretched myfelf a-long before my fire; having the river, my little harbour, and the ftem of my veffel in view; and now through fatigue and wearinefs I fell afleep. But this happy temporary releafe from cares and troubles I enjoyed but a few moments, when I was awakened and greatly furprifed, by the terrifying fcreams of Owls in the deep fwamps around me; and what increafed my extreme mifery was the difficulty of getting quite awake, and yet hearing at the fame time fuch fcreaming and fhouting, which increafed and fpread every way for miles around, in dreadful peals vibrating through the dark extenfive forefts, meadows, and lakes. I could not after this fur-prife recover my former peaceable ftate and tranquillity of mind and repofe, during the long night; and I believe it was happy for me that I was awakened, for at that moment the crocodile was dafhing my canoe againft the roots of the tree, endeavouring to get into her for the fifh, which I however prevented. Another time in the night I believe I narrowly efcaped being dragged into the river by him; for when again through exceffive fatigue I had fallen
K 3 afleep,
afleep, but was again awakened by the Screaming owl, I found the monfter on the top of the bank, his head towards me not above two yards diftant; when ftarting up and feizing my fufee well loaded, v, i,leh I always kept under my head in the night time, he drew back and plunged into the water. After this, I roufed up my fire, and kept a light during the remaining part of the night, being determined not to be caught napping fo again: indeed the mufqukoes alone would have been abundantly fufficient to keep any creature awake that poffefled their perfect fenfes; but I. was overcome and ftu-pified with inceffant watching and labour.   As foon as I difcoyered the firft figns of day-light, 1 arofe, got all my effects and implements on board, and fet fail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the mufquitoes the flip, who were now, by the cool morning dews and breezes, driven to their flicker and hiding places.   I was miftaken however in thefe conjectures, for great numbers of them, which had con-c( aled themfelves in my boat, as foon as the fun arofe, began to revive, and fting me on my legs, which obliged me to land in order to get bullies to beat them out of their quarters.
It is very pleafing to obferve the banks of the river ornamented with hanging garlands, com-pofed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both ihrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green • walls, with projecting jambs, pilafters, and deep apartments, twenty or thirty feet high, and completely covered with Glycine frutefcens, Giyc. apios, Vitis labrufca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Iledera quin-quiFolia, Hedera arborea, Eupatorium (candensj Bignonia crucigera, and various fpecies of Convolvulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this
genus,
genus, or perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very large white Mower, as big as a fmall funnel; its tube is five or fix inches in length, and not thicker than a pipe ilem j the leaves are alfo very large, oblong, and cordated, fometimes dentated or angled, near the infertion of the foot-tlalk; they are of a thin texture, and of a deep green colour. It is exceedingly curious to behold the Wild Squafh* climbing over the lofty limbs of the trees; its yellow fruit, fomewhat of the fize and figure of a large orange, pendant from the extremities of the limbs over the water.
Towards noon, the fultry heats being intolerable, I put into fhore, at a middling high bank, five or fix feet above the furface of the river. This low fandy teftaceous ridge along the river fide was but narrow; the furface light, black, and exceedingly fertile, producing very large venerable lave Oaks, Palms, and grand Magnolias, fcatteringly planted by nature. There being no underwood to prevent the play of the breezes from the river, it afforded a dcfirable retreat from the fun's heat. Immediately at the back of this narrow ridge, were deep wet fwamps, where flood fome aflonifhingly tall and fpreading Cyprefs trees. And now being weary and drowfy, 1 was induced to indulge and liften to the dictates of reafon and invitations to repofe; which consenting to, after fecuring my boat and reconnoitering the ground, I fpread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat, on which I extended myfelf, where, falling to fleep, I inflantaneoufly paffed away the fultry hours of noon. What a blifsful tranquil repofe! Undiflurbed I awoke, refrefhed and Strengthened i I cheerfully ftepped on board again and continued to afcend the river. The,
K 4 af ernoQu
afternoon being cool and pleafant, and the trees very lofty on the higher weftern banks of the river, by keeping near that fhore I pafted under agreeable fhades the remaining part of the day. During almoft all this day's voyage, the banks of the river on both fhores were middling high, perpendicular, and walhed by the brink current: the fhores were not lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics, and confequently not very commodious reforts or harbours for crocodiles; I therefore was not dif-turbed by them, and faw but few, but thofe were very large.   I however did not like to lodge on thofe narrow ridges, invefted by fuch dreary fwamps; and evening approaching, I began to be anxious for high land for a camping place.   It was quite dark before I came up to a bluff, which I had in view a long time, over a very extenfive point of meadows. I landed however at laft, in the beft manner I could, at a magnificent foreft of Orange groves, Oaks, and Palms.  I here, with little labour or difficulty, foon collected a fufficient quantity of dry wood ; there was a pleafant villa of grafs betwixt the grove and the edge of the river bank, which afforded a very convenient, open, airy encamping place, under the protection of fome fpreading Oaks.
This was a high perpendicular bluff, fronting ,*<ore than one hundred yards on the river, the earth black, loofe, and fertile : it is a compofition of river-fhells, fand, &c. At the back of it from the river, were open Pine forefts and favannas. I met with a cir-cumftance here, that, with fome, may be reckoned worthy of mentioning, fince it regards the monuments of the ancients. As I have already obferved, when I landed it was quite dark; and in collecting
wood
wood for my fire, ftrolling in the dark about the groves, I found the furface of the ground very uneven, by means of little mounts and ridges. In the morning I found 1 had taken up my lodging on the border of an ancient burying ground, containing Sepulchres or tumuli of the Yamafees, who were here flain by the Creeks in the laft decifive battle, the Creeks having driven them into this point, between the doubling of the river, where few of them efcaped the fury of the conquerors.   Thefe graves occupied the whole grove, confifting of two or three acres of ground: there were near thirty of thefe cemeteries of the dead, nearly of an equal fize and form, being oblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet in width, and three or four feet high, now overgrown with orange trees, live oaks, laurel magnolias, red bays and other trees and flirubs, compofing dark and folemn Shades.
I here, for the firft time Since I left the" trading houfe, enjoyed a night of peaceful repofe. I arofe, greatly refreflied and in good fpirits, ftepped on board my bark, and continued my voyage. After doubling the point, I paifed by fwamps and meadows on each fide of me. The river here is fomething more contracted within perpendicular banks; the land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing prodigiouily large timber and luxuriant herbage.
The air continued fultry, and fcarcely enough wind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eaftein coaft of the river now opens, and prefents to view ample plains, confifting of graffy marfhes and green meadows, and affords a profpecr. almoft unlimited and extremely pleafing. The oppofite fhore exhibits a fublime contrail:; a high bluff bearing magnificent forefts of grand magnolia, glorious
palms,
palms, fruitful orange groves, live oaks, bays and other trees.   This grand elevation continues four or five hundred yards, dcfcribing a gentle curve on the river, ornamented by a fublime grove of palms, confifting of many hundreds of trees together; they entirely ftiade the ground under them.   Above and below the bluff, the grounds gradually defcend to the common level fwamps on the river: at the back of this eminence open to view expanfive green meadows or favannas, in which are to be feen glittering ponds of water, furrounded at a great diftance by high open pine forefts and hommocks, and iflets of oaks and bays projecting into the favannas.   After ranging about thefe Solitary groves and peaceful fhades, I re-embarked and continued fome miles up the river, between elevated banks of the fwamps or low lands; when on the Eaft fhore, in a capacious cove or winding of the river, were pleafing floating fields of piftia; and in the bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek or branch of the river, which I knew to be the entrance to a'beautiful lake, on the banks of which was the farm I was going to vifit, and which I dc-figned mould be the laft extent of my voyage up the river.
About noon the weather became extremely fultry, not a breath of wind ftirring, hazy or cloudy, with very heavy diftant thunder, which was anfwered by the crocodiles, -fure prefage of a ftorm!
Soon after afcending this branch of the river, on the right hand prefents itfelf to view a delightful little bluff, confifting chiefly of ftiells, and covered with a dark grove of red cedar, Zanthoxylon and myrtle. I could not refill, the temptation to ftop here, although the tremendous thunder all around
the
the hemifphere alarmed me greatly, having a large lake to crofs. From this grove appears to view an expanfive and pleafing profpect. The beauteous Jong lake in front, about Nortli Eaft from me, its moil diftant Eaft fhores adorned with dark, high forefts of ftately trees; North and South almoft cnd-lefs green plains and meadows, embellifhed with iflets and projecting promontories of high, dark forefts, where the pyramidal magnolia grandiflora, palma elata, and fhady oak, confpicuoufly tower.
Being heretofore fo clofely invefted by high forefts and deep fwamps of the great river, I was prevented from feeing the progreis and increafe of the approaching tempeft, die  terrific  appearance of which now at once confounded me.   How purple and fiery appeared the tumultuous clouds, fwiftiy afcending or darting from the horizon upwards! they feemed to oppofe and dafh againft each other; the fkies appeared ftreaked with blood or purple flame overhead, the flaming lightning Streaming and darting about in every direction around, Seemed to fill the world with fire; whilft the heavy thunder kept the earth in a conftant u-etnor.    I had yet Some hopes of crofting the lake to die plantation in fight.   On the oppofite fhore of the creek before me, and on the cape as we enter the lake, flood a large iflet or grove of oaks and palms.   Here I intended to feek fhelter and abide tilt the fury of the hurricane was overpaft, if I found it too violent to permit me to crofs the lake.  In confequence of this precipitate determination, I ftepped into my boat and pufhed off. What a dreadful rufhing and roaring there was every where around me! and to my utter confufion and aflonifhment, I could not find from what particular quarter its ftrongeft current or direc-
14-c* travels in
tion came, whereby I might have a proper chance of taking mcafures for fecuring a harbour or running from it. The high forefh behind me bent to the blaft; and the fturdy limbs of the trees cracked. I had by this time got up abrealt of the grove or hom-mock: the hurricane clofe by, purfuing me, I found it dangerous and imprudent in the highefi degree to put in here, as the groves were already torn up, and the fpreading limbs of the ancient live oaks were flying over my head, and carried about in the air as leaves and ftubble. I ran by and boldly entered the lake (being hurried in by a ftrong current, which feemed a prodigy, the violent wind driving the flream of the creek back again into the lake), and as foon as poflible took fhejter under the high reedy bank of the lake, and made fail my bark to the boughs of a low ihrubby Hickory, that leaned over the water. Such was the violence of the wind, that it raifed the waters on the oppofite fhores of the lake feveral feet perpendicular, and there was a rapid How of water from the creek into it, which was contrary to its natural courfe. Such floods of rain fell during the fpace of half or three quarters of an hour, that; my boat was filled, and I expected every moment when 1 fhould fee her fink to the bottom of the lake; and the violence of the wind kept the cable fo con-ftandy extended, that it was beyond my ability to get to her. My box which contained my books of fpecimens and other collections, was floating about in her; and for a great part of the time the rain came down with fuch rapidity and fell in fuch quantities, that every object was totally obfcured, excepting the continual ftreams or rivers of lightning, pouring from the clouds. All feemed a frightful chaos. When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed to fee the face of nature again appear.
It took me an hour or more to clear the water out of my bark. I then croffed the lake before a brifk and favourable breeze (it was about a mile over), and landed fafely at the plantation.
When I arrived, my friend was affrighted to fee me, and immediately inquired of me in what manner I came there; fuppofing it impoffible (until I had fhowed him my boat) that I could have arrived by water, through fo tremendous a hurricane.
Indeed I faw plainly that they were greatly terrified, having furfered almoft irreparable damages from the violence of the ftorm. All the buildings on the plantation, except his own dwelling-houfe, were laid almoft flat to the ground, or the logs and roof rent afunder and twifted about; the manfion-houfe fhook and reeled over their heads. He had nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almoft ripe for the firft cutting, which were nearly ruined j and feveral acres of very promifing fugar-cane, totally fpoiled for the feafon. The great live oaks which had been left ftanding about the fields, were torn to pieces, their limbs lying fcattered over the ground: and one very large one which flood near his houfe torn down, which could not have been done by the united ftrength of a thoufand men. But what is incredible, in the midft of this devaftation and ruin, providentially no lives were loft; although there were about fixty Negro (laves on the plantation, and moft of them in their huts when the ftorm came on, yet they efcaped with their lives, though feveral were badly wounded.
I continued here three days: indeed it took mod of the time of my abode with him, to dry my books and fpecimens of plants.   But with attention and
care
care I laved the greateft number of them; though fome were naturally lb delicate and fragile, that it was impoftlble to recover them. Here is a vaft body of land belonging to this eftate; of high ridges fit for the culture of corn, indigo, cotton, batatas, &c. and of low fwamps and marfhes, which when properly drained and tilled, would be fuitable for rice. Thefe rich low grounds, when drained and ridged, are as productive as the natural high land, and vaftly more durable, efpecially for fugar-cane, corn, and even indigo; but this branch of agriculture beinn; more expenfive, thefe rich lands are neglected, and the upland only is under culture.   The farm is updated on the Eaft fhore of the beautiful Long Lake, which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad. This lake communicates with the St. Juan, by the little river that I afcended, which is about one mile and an half in length, and thirty or forty yards wide. The river, as well as the lake, abounds with fifh and wild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers, efpecially during the winter feafon, when the geefe and ducks arrive here from the north.
New Smyrna*, a pretty thriving town, is a colony of Creeks and Minorquines, cllablifhed by Mr. Turnbull, on the Mufquito river, and very near its
*■■ New Smyrna Is built on a high ftielly bluff, on the Welt bank of the Smith branch of Mulquito rhcr, about ten miles above the capes of that river, which is about thirty mil" Noith of Cape Canaveral, Lat. zS. I was theie about ten years ago, when the furvcyor run the lines or precincls of the colony, where there was neither habitation nor cleared Held. It was then a famous orange ■ grove, the upper or South promontory of a ridge, nearly half a mile wide, and Ih'etching North about forty miles, to the head of the North branch of the Mufquito, to where the Tomoko river unites with it, nearly parallel to the fea coafl, and not above two miles acrofj to the fea beach. All this ridge was then one entire orange grove, with live oaks, magnolias, palms, red bays, and others: 1 obleivcd then, ne.ir where New Smyrna now Hands, a fpacious Indian mount and avenue, which flood near the banks of tlx river: the avenue ran on a itrait line D3CK, through the groves, acrofs the ridge, and terminated at the verge of .natural lavmiuas and ponds.
mouth;
month j it is about thirty miles over land from this farm.
My friend rode with me, about four miles diftance from the houfe, to fhow me a vaft fountain of warm, or rather hot mineral water, which iflued from a high ridge or bank on the river, in a great cove or bay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek which I afcended to the lake; it boils up with great force, forming immediately a vaft circular bafon, capacious enough for feveral fhallops to ride in, and runs with rapidity into the river three or four hundred yards diftance.   This creek, which is formed inftantly by this admirable fountain, is wide and deep enough for a Hoop to fail up into the bafon. The water is perfectly diaphanous, and here are continually a prodigious number and variety of fifh; they appear as plain as though lying on a table before your eyes, although many feet deep in the water.   This tepid water has a moft difagreeable tafte, braffy and vitriolic, and very offenfive to the fmell, much like bilge water or the waftiings of a gun-barrel, and is fmelt at a great diftance.   A pale bluiffi or pearl coloured coagulum covers every inanimate fubftance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs of trees, &c. Alligators and gar were numerous in the bafon, even at the apertures where the ebullition emerges through the rocks; as alfo many other tribes of fiih.   In the winter feafon feveral kinds of fiih and aquatic animals migrate to thefe warm fountains. The forbidding tafte and fmell of thefe waters feems to be owing to vitriolic and fulphureous fumes or vapours; and thefe being condenfed, form this coagulum, which reprefents flakes of pearly clouds in the clear cerulean waters in the bafon. A charming orange grove, with magnolias, oaks, and palms,
• half
half furroimded this vaft fountain. A delightful Stream of cool falubrious water iflues from the ridge, meandering along and entering the creek juft below the bafon. I returned in the evening, and next day-fat off again down the river.
My hofpitable friend, after fupplying me with ne-ceftaries, prevailed on me to accept of the company and affiftance of his purveyor, one day's voyage down the river, whom I was to fet on fhore at a certain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, but not above one third that diftance by land; he was to be out in the forefts one day, on a hunt for turkeys.
The current of the river being here confined within its perpendicular banks, ran brifkly down: we cheerfully defcended the grand river St. Juan, enjoying enchanting profpects.
Before night we reached the defttned port, at a fpacious orange grove. Next morning we feparated, and I proceeded down the river. The profpeclrs on either hand are now pleafing, and I view them at leifure, and without toil or dread.
Induced by the beautiful appearance of the green meadows, which open to the Eaftward, I determined not to pafs this Elyfium without a vifit. Behold the loud, fonorous, watchful favanna cranes (grus pra-tenfis) with mufical clangor, in detached fquadrons. They fpread their light elaftic fail: at firft they move from the earth heavy and flow; they labour and beat the denfe air; they form the line with wide extended wings, tip to tip; they all rife and fall together as one bird; now they mount aloft, gradually wheeling about; each fquadron performs its evolu-
NORTH  AMERTCU. I45.
tion, encircling the expanfive plains, obferving each one its own orbit; then lowering fail, defcend on the verge of fome glittering lake; whilft other fquadrons, afcending aloft in fpiral circles, bound on interefting difcoveries, wheel round and double the promontory, in the filver regions of the clouded fkies, where, far from the fcope of eye, they carefully obferve the verdant meadows on the borders of the Eaft Lake; then contract their plumes and defcend to the earth, where, after refting a while on fome verdant eminence, near the flowery border of the lake, they, with dignified, yet flow, refpecrful fteps, approach the kindred band, confer, and treat for habitation; the bounds and precincts being fettled, they confederate and take pofleflion.
There is inhabiting the low fhores and fwamps of this river and the lakes of Florida, as well as Georgia, a very curious bird *, called by an Indian name (Ephoufkyca) which fignifies in our language the crying bird. I cannot determine what genus of European birds to join it with. It is about the fize of a large domeftic hen: all the body, above and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather edged or tipped with white, which makes the bird appear fpeckled on a near view; the eye is large and placed high on the head, which is very prominent; the bill or beak is five or fix inches in length, arched or bent gradually downwards, in that refpect to be compared to one half of a bent bow; it is large or thick near the bafe, compreffed on each fide, and flatted at top and beneath, which makes it appear four fquare for more than an inch, where the noftrils are placed, from whence, to their tips, both mandibles are round, gradually leffening or tapering to
* TintAuz puftus.
L
their
their extremities, which are thicker for about half an inch than immediately above, by which the mandibles never fit quite clofe their whole length; the upper mandible is a fmall matter longer than the under; the bill is of a dufky green colour, more bright and yellowifh about the bafe and angles of the mouth; the tail is very fhort, and (he middle feather the longed; the others on each fide fhorten gradually, and are of the colour of the reft of the bird, only fomewhat darker; the two fhorteft or outermoit feathers are perfectly white, which the bird has a faculty of flirting out on either fide, as quick as a fiafh of lightning, efpecially when he hears or fees any thing that difturbs him, uttering at the fame inftant an extreme harfh and loud ihriek; his neck is long and flender; and his legs are alio long and bare of feathers above the knee, like thofe of the bittern, and are black or of a dark lead colour.
There are two other fpecies of this genus, which agree in almoft every particular with the above defcription, except in fize and colour. The firft * of thefe I fhall mention is a perfect white, except the prime quill feathers, which are as black as thofe of a crow; the bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, as alfo a fpace clear of feathers about the eyes. The other fpecies f is black on the upper fide, the breaft and belly white, and the legs and beak as white as fnow. Both thefe fpecies are about half the fize of the crying bird. 1 hey fly in large flocks or fqua-drons, evening and morning, to and from their feeding place or roofts, both fpecies are called Spaniih curlews: thefe and the crying bird feed chiefly on
*: Tantalus albus.   Numir.us albus. Cat.
f Tantalus vcrftcolur.   Nuniinus l'ufcus. Cat.
cray
Cray fifh, whofe cells they probe, and with their ftrong pinching bills drag them out: all the three fpecies are efteemed excellent food.
It is a pleafing fight at times of high winds and heavy thunder Storms, to obferve the numerous Squadrons of thefe Spaniih curlews driving to and fro, turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when by their various evolutions in the different and oppofite currents of the wind high in the clouds, their Silvery white plumage gleams and Sparkles like the brightest cryital, reflecting the Sun-beams that dart upon them between the dark clouds.
Since I have turned my observations upon the birds oS this country I (hall notice another very fingular one, though already molt curioufly and exactly figured by Catefby, which Seems to be nearly allied to thoSe beSore mentioned; I mean the bird which he calls the wood pelican *. This is a large bird, perhaps near three Seet high when Standing erect. The bill is veiy long and ftrong, bending with a moderate curve from the bafe to the tip j the upper mandible is the largeft, and receives the edges of the nether one into it its whole length j the edges are very fharp and firm; the whole of a dark afh or horn colour; the forehead round the bafe of the beak and fides of the head is bare of feathers, and of a dark greenifh colour, in which fpace is placed the eyes, which are very large; the remainder of the head and neck is of a nut brown colour; the back of a light bluifh grcyj upper part of the wings, breaft, and belly, almoft white, with fome flight daihes of grey j the quill-feathers and tail, which are very fhort, are of a dark flate colour, almoft black; the legs, which are very
Tantalus locuiator. Linn.
L 2 long,
long, and bare of feathers a great length above the knees, are of a dark dull greenifh colour: it has a fmall bag or pouch under its throat: it feeds on ferpents, young alligators, frogs, and other reptiles.
This folitary bird does not affociate in flocks, but is generally feen alone; commonly near the banks of great rivers, in vaft marfhes or meadows, efpecially fuch as are caufed by inundations; and alfo in the vaft deferred rice plantations: he ftands alone on the topmoft limb of tall dead cyprefs trees, his neck contracted or drawn in upon his (houlders, and beak refting like a long fcydie upon his bread: in this peniive pofture and folitary fituation, it looks extremely grave, Sorrowful, and melancholy, as if in the deepeft thought. They are never feen on the fait lea coaft, and yet are never found at a great diftance from it. I take this bird to be of a different genus from the tantalus, and perhaps it approaches the neareft to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird yet known.
There are two fpecies of vultures * in thefe regions, I think not mentioned in hiftory: the firft we mail defcribe is a beautiful bird, near the fize of a turkey buzzard f, but his wings are much ihorter, and confequentiy lie falls greatly below that admirable bird in fail. I fhall call this bird the painted vulture. The bill is long and ftraight almoft to the point, when it is hooked or bent luddenly down and iharp; the head and neck bare of feathers nearly down to the ftomach, when the feathers begin to cover the fkin, arid foon become long and of a fort texture, forming a ruff or tippet, in which the bird by contracting his neck ck 1 hide that as
* Vultur facra. f Vultur auxea.
well
well as his head; the baiv fkin on the n^ck appears loofe and wrinkled, and is of a deep bright yellow colour, intermixed with coral red; the hinder part of the neck is nearly covered with fhort, ftiff hair; and the fkin of this part of the neck is of a dun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as it approaches the yellow of the fides and fore part. The crown of the head is red; there are lobed lappets of a reddifh orange colour, which lie on the bafe of the upper mandible. But what is fingular, a large portion of the ftomach hangs down on the bread of the bird, in the likenefs of a fack or half wallet, and feems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is naked and of a reddilh fleih colour; this is partly concealed by the feathers of the bread, urilels when it is loaded with food (which is commonly, I believe, mailed reptiles), and then it appears prominent. The plumage of the bird is generally white or cream colour, except the quill-feathers of the wings and two or three rows of the coverts, which are of a beautiful dark brown; the tail, which is large and white, is tipped with this dark brown or black; the legs and feet of a clear white; the eye is encircled with a gold coloured iris; the pupil black.
The Creeks or Mufcogulges condruct their royal dandard of the tail feather of this bird, which is called by a name fignifying the eagle's tail: this they carry with them when they go to battle, but then it is painted with a zone of red within the brown tips; and in peaceable negociations it is difplayed new, clean, and white: this dandard is held mod facred by them on all occafions, and is condructed and ornamented with great ingenuity. Thefe birds feldom appear but when the deferts are fet on fire {which happens almod every day throughout the year, in
L 3 „ fome
fome part or other, by the Indians, for the purpofe of roufing the game, as alfo by the lightning:) when they are feen at a diftance foaring on the wing, gathering from every quarter, and gradually approaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon the ground yet fmoking with hot embers: they gather up the roafted ferpents, frogs, and lizards, tilling their facks with them: at this time a perfon may ifioot them at pleafure, they not being willing to quit the feaft, and indeed feeming to brave all danger.
The other fpecies may very properly be called the coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants called the carrion crow. As to bulk or weight, he is nearly equal to either of the others before mentioned. His wings are not long and fharp pointed, but broad and round at their extremities, having a clumfy appearance; the tail is remarkably fhort, which he fpreads like a little fan, when on the wing. They have a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings, then fail a little and then flap their wings again, and fo on as if recovering themfelves when falling. The beak is very long and ftraight, until it makes a hidden hook at the point, in the manner of the other vultures.   The whole bird is of a fable or mourning colour; the head and neck down to the breaft is bare of feathers, and the fkin wrinkled s this unfeathered fkin is of a deep livid purple, appearing black and thinly fet with fhort black hair. He has a ruff or tippet of long foft feathers, like a collar, bearing on his breaft, in which he can conceal his neck and head at pleafure.
Having agreeably diverted away the intolerable heats of fultry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, with renewed vigour I again refume my fylvan pilgrimage.
The
north  amerk  ... i 5 i
The afternoon and evening moderately warm, and exceeding pleafant views from the river a nd its varied fhores. I palled by Battle lagoon and the bluff", without much oppofition; but the crocodiles were already affembling in the pafs. Before night I came to, at a charming orange grove bluff, on the Eaft fide of the little lake; and after fixing my camp on a high open fituation, and collecting a plenty of dry wood for fuel, I had time to get fome fine trout for fupper, and joyfully return to my camp.
What a moft beautiful creature is this fifh before me! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the ftill clear waters, with his orient attendants and aftb-ciates : the yellow bream * or fun fifh. It is about eight inches in length, nearly of the fhape of the trout, but rather larger in proportion over the fhoulders and breaft; the mouth large, and the branchioftega opens wide; the whole fifh is of a pale gold (or burnifhed brafs) colour, darker on the back and upper fides; the fcales are of a proportionable fize, regularly placed, and every where variably powdered with red, ruffet, filver, blue, and green fpecks, fo laid on the fcales as to appear like real duft or opaque bodies, each apparent particle being fb projected by light and fhade, and the various attitudes of the fifh, as to deceive the fight; for in reality nothing can be of a more plain and polifhed fm face than the fcales and whole body of the fifh. The fins are of an orange colour; and, like all the fpecies of the bream, the ultimate angle of the branchioftega terminates by a little fpatula, the extreme end of which re prefents a crefcent of the fineft ultramarine blue, encircled with filver and
'* Cypiinus cororufuis.
L 4 velvet
velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a peacock's train. He is a fifh of prodigious ftrength and activity in the water; a warrior in a gilded coat of mail; and gives no reft or quarter to fmall fifh, which he preys upon. They are delicious food and in great abundance.
The orange grove is but narrow, betwixt the river banks and ancient Indian fields, where there are evident traces of the habitations of the ancients, furrounded with groves of live oak, laurel magnolia, zanthoxylon, liquidambar, and others.
How harmonious and foothing is this native fyl-van mufic now at ftill evening! inexpreflibly tender are the refponfive cooings of the innocent dove, in the fragrant zanthoxylon groves, and the variable and tuneful warblings of the nonpareil, with the more fprightly and elevated ftrains of the blue linnet and golden icterus: this is indeed harmony, even amidft the inceflant croaking of the frogs: the fhades of filent night are made more cheerful, with the fhrill voice of the whip-poor-will * and active mock-bird.
My fituation high and airy: a brifk and cool breeze fteadily and inceffantly pafting over the clear waters of the lake, and fluttering over me through the fur-rounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light favannas, while I repofe on my fweet and healthy couch of the foft tillandfia ufnea-adfeites, and the latter gloomy and ftill hours of night pafs rapidly away as it were in a moment.   I arofe, ftrengthen-
* Caprimulgus rufus, called chuck-will's-widow, from a fancied rcfim-hlancc of his notes to thefe words: it inhabits th;1 maritime parts of Carolina and Florida, and is more than twice the fize of the night hawk or whip-poor-will.
ed
Rad . f>lMi>-ri> .niltrvUtiulil
Cauli*- teirl viu/ituilij. KolH a. Liiiniiilim<><>••tiitU l'lorlbua. tamait/it mtfnv arnilfi.r Vub Ti'iuiiffini.
ed and cheerful, in the morning. Having fome repairs to make in the tackle of my veffel, I paid my firft attention to them; which being accomplifhed, my curiofity prompted me to penetrate the grove and view the illumined plains.
What a beautiful difplay of vegetation is here before me ! feemingly unlimited in extent and variety: how the dew-drops twinkle and play upon the fight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green favanna, fparkling as the gem that flames on the turban of the eaftern prince. See the pearly tears rolling off the buds of the expanding Granadilla *; behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixea! what can equal the rich golden flowers of the Canna lutea, which ornament the banks of yon ferpentine rivulet, meandering over the meadows; the almoft endlefs varieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the Swelling green banks, afibciated with the purple Verbena co-rymbofa, Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and filvery Per-dicium ? How fantaftical looks the libertine Clito-ria, mantling the fhrubs, on the viftas Skirting the groves! My morning excurfion finifhed, I returned to my camp, breakfafted, then went on board my boat, gently defcended the noble river, and parTed by feveral openings of extenfive plains and meadows, environing the eaft lake, charming beyond compare. At evening I came to at a good harbour, under the high banks of the river, and refted during the night amidft the flagrant groves, expofed to the conftant breezes from the river: here I made ample collections of fpecimens and growing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me fully employed the greateft part of the day; and in the evening arrived at a charming fpot on the eaft
* PafiifWa incamata, talkd May-Apple.
bank,
bank, which I had marked on my afcent up die river, where I made fome addition to my collections ; and the next day I employed myfelf' in the lame manner, putting into fhore frequently, at convenient places, which I had noticed; and in the evening arrived again at the upper More, where I had the pleafure of rinding my old friend, the trader, in good health and cheerful, and his affairs in a profperous way. There were alfo a fmall party of Indians here, who had lately arrived with their hunts to purchafe goods. I continued a few days at this pofl, fearching its environs for curious vegetable productions, collecting feeds and planting growing roots in boxes, to be tranfported to the lower trading houfe.
Now, having procured neceffaries to accommodate me on my voyage down to the lower ftore, 1 bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job Wiggens, embarked alone on board my little fortunate veffel, and fet fail. I chofe to follow the eaflernmofl channel of the river to the Great Lake, becaufe it ran by high banks and bluffs of the eaftern main the greateft part of the diftance, which afforded me an opportunity of obferving a far greater variety of natural fubjects, than if I had taken the weftern or middle channel, which flowed through fwamps and marfhes.
At evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former fafe and pleafant harbour, at the eaft cape of the Great Lake, where 1 had noticed fome curious ihrubs and plants; here I refted, and on the fmooth and gentle current launch again into the little ocean of Lake George, meaning now, on my return, to coaft his weftern fhores in fearch of new beauties in the bounteous kingdom of Flora.
I was
I was however induced to deviate a little from my intended courfe, and touch at the inchanting little lfle of Palms. This delightful fpot, planted by nature, is almoft an entire grove of Palms, with a few pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden Orange, and the animating Zanthoxylon.   What a beauti-tiful retreat is here! blefled unviolated fpot of earth, riftng from the limpid waters of the lake: its fragrant groves and blooming lawns inverted and protected by encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriofa. A fafcinating atmofphere furrounds this blifsful garden; the balmy Lantana, ambrofial Citra, perfumed Crinum, perfpiring their mingled odours, wafted through Zanthoxylon groves.   I at laft broke a-way from the enchanting fpot, and ftepped on board my boat, hoifted fail, and foon approached the coaft of the main, at the cool eve of day: then traverf-inga capacious femicircular cove of the lake, verged by low, extenfive graffy meadows, I at length by dufk made a fafe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the fea ftiore or ftrand of a bold fandy point, which defcended from the furf of the lake.   This was a clean fandy beach, hard and firm by the beating furf, when the wind fets from the eaft coaft. I drew up my light veffel on the Hoping fhore, that fhe might be fife from the beating waves in cafe of a hidden ftorm of wind in the night.   A few yards back the land was a little elevated, and overgrown with thickets of fhrubs and low trees, confifting chiefly of Zanthoxylon, Olea Americana, Rhamnus frangula, Sideroxylon, Morus, Ptclea, Ha-lefia, Querci, Myrica cerifera, and others. Thefe groves were but low, yet fufliciently high to {belter me from the chilling dews 5 and being but a few yards diftance from my veffel, here I fixed my encampment.   A brifk wind arifing from the lake,
drove
drove away the clouds of mufquitoes into the thickets. I now, with difficulty and induftry, collected a fufhciency of dry wood to keep up a light during the night, and to roaft fome trout which I had caught when defcending the river: their heads I ftewed in the juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, afforded me a wholefome and delicious fupper: I hung the remainder of my broiled fiih on the fhags of fome fhrubs over my head. I at laft, after reconnoitring my habitation, returned, fpread abroad my fkins and blanket upon the clean finds by my fire fide, and betook myfelf to repofe.
How glorious the powerful fun, minifter of the Moft High in the rule and government of this earth, leaves our hemifphere, retiring from our fight beyond the weftern forefts! I behold with gratitude his departing fmiles, tinging the fleecy rofe-ate clouds, now riding far away on the eaftern horizon ; behold they vanifh from fight in the azure fkies!
All now filcnt and peaceable, I fuddenly fell afleep. At midnight I awake; when, raifing my head erect:, I find myfelf alone in the wildernefs of Florida, on the fhores of Lake George. Alone indeed, but under the care of the Almighty, and protected by the invifible hand of my guardian angel.
When quite awake, I ftarted at the heavy tread of fome animal; the dry limbs of trees upon the ground crack under his feet; the clofe fhrubby thickets part and bend under him as he rufhes off.
I rekindle my flecpy fire; lay in contact the exfoliated fmoking brands damp with the dew of heaven.
The
♦
The bright flame afcends and illuminates the ground and groves around me.
When looking up, I found my fiih carried off, though I had thought them fafe on the fhrubs, juft over my head; but their fcent, carried to a great diftance by the damp nocturnal breezes, I fuppofe were too powerful attractions to refift.
Perhaps it may not be time loft, to reft a while here, and reflect on the unexpected and unaccountable incident, which however pointed out to me an extraordinary deliverance or protection of my life, from the rapacious wolf that ftole my fifh from over my head.
How much eafier and more eligible might it have been for him to have leaped upon my breaft in the dead of fleep, and torn my throat, which would have inftantly deprived me of life, and then glutted his ftomach for the prefent with my warm blood, and dragged off my body, which would have made a feaft afterwards for him and his howling aflbciates! I fay, would not this have been a wifer ftep, than to have made protracted and circular approaches, and then after, by chance, efpying the fiih over my head, with the greateft caution and filence rear up, and take them off the fnags one by one, then make off with them, and that fo cunningly as not to awaken me until he had fairly accomplished his purpofe ?
The morning being clear, I fat fail with a favourable breeze, coafting along the fhores; when on a hidden the waters became traniparent, and difcovered the fandy bottom, and the feveral nations of fifh, palling and repairing each other. Foh 6 lowing
lowing this courfe I was led to the cnpe of the little river, defcending from Six Mile Springs, and meandering fix miles from its fource through green meadowy. I entered this pellucid Stream, failing over me heads of innumerable Squadrons of fiih, which, although many feet deep in the water, were diftinctly to be feen. I pafl'ed by charming iflets of ftouriih-ing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Afh, Maple, Nyffa, and others. As I approached the diftant high foreft on the main, the river widened, floating fields of the green Piftia Surrounded me, the rapid Stream winding through them. "What an alluring Scene was now before me! A vail bafon or little lake of cryftal waters, half encircled by Swelling hills, dad with Orange and odoriferous Ulicium groves, the towering Magnolia, itfelf a grove, and the exalted Palm, us if confeious of their tranfeendent glories, tofled about their lofty head:;, painting, with mutable Shades, the green floating fields beneath. The fo-cial prattling coot enrobed in blue, and the fqueel-ing water-hen, with wings half expanded, tripped after each other, over the wateiy mirrour.
I put in at an ancient landing place, which is a Hoping afcent to a level graffy plain, an old Indian field. As I intended to make my moft confiderable collections at this place, I proceeded immediately to fix my encampment but a few yards from my fafe harbour, where I fecurely fattened my boat to a Live Oak which overftiadowed my port.
After collecting a good quantity of fire-wood, as it was about the middle of the afternoon, I re-folved to reconnoitre the ground about my encampment. Slaving penetrated the groves next to me, I came to the open forefts, confifting of exceed-
ingly tall ftraight Pines (Pinus Paluftris) that flood at a confiderable diftance from each other, through which appeared at N. W. an almoft unlimited plain of graffy favannas, embellilhed with a chain of Shallow ponds, as far as the fight could reach. Here is a fpecies of Magnolia that affociates with the (iordonia lalianthus; it is a tall tree, fixty or eighty feet in heighth; the trunk ftraight; its head terminating in the form of a fharp cone; the leaves are oblong, lanceolate, of a fine deep green, and glaucous beneath; the flowers are large, perfectly white and extremely fragrant; with refpect to its flowers and leaves, it differs very little from the Magnolia glauca.   The filvery whitenefs of the leaves of this tree had a Striking and pleafing effect: on the fight, as it flood amidft the dark green of the Quercus dentata, Nyffa fylvatica, Nyf. aquatica, Gordonia faflahthus,   and  many others   of the Same hue. The tall afpiring Gordonia lafianthus, which now flood in my view in all its fplendour, is every way deferving of our admiration.   Its thick foliage, of a dark green colour, is flowered over with large milk-white fragrant bloffoms, on long flender elaf-tic peduncles, at the extremities of its numerous branches, from the bofom of the leaves, and renewed every morning; and that in fuch incredible pro-fufion, that the tree appears filvered over with them, and the ground beneath coveretl with the fallen flowers.   It at the fame time continually pufhes forth new twigs, with young buds on them; and in the winter and fpring, the third year's leaves, now partly concealed by the new and perfect ones, are gradually changing colour, from green to golden yellow, from that to a fcarlet, from fcarlet to crimfon ; and laftly to a brownifh purple, and then fall
to
to the ground. So that the Gordonia lafianthus may be faid to change and renew its garments every morning throughout the year; and every day appears with unfading luftre. And moreover, after the general flowering is pan:, there is a thin fuc-ceflion of fcattering bloflbms to be feen, on fome parts of the tree, almoft every day throughout the remaining months, until the floral feafon returns again. Its natural fituation, when growing, is on the edges of fhaliow ponds, or low wet grounds on rivers, in a fandy foil, the neareft to the water of any other tree, fo that in droughty feafons its long Serpentine roots which run near or upon the furface of the earth, may reach into the water. When the tree has arrived to the period of perfect magnitude, it is fixty, eighty, or an hundred feet high, forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old trees when fawn into plank is defervedly admired in cabinet-work or furniture ; it has a cinnamon coloured ground, marbled and veined with many colours: the inner bark is ufed for dying a reddifli or forrel colour; it imparts this colour to wool, cotton, linen, and drefted deer fkins, and is highly efteemed by tanners.
The Zamia pumila, the Erythryna coralloden-drum, and the Cactus opuntia, grow here in great abundance and perfection. The firft grows in the open pine forefts, in tufts or clumps, a large conical ftrobile difclofmg its large coral red fruit, which appears Angularly beautiful amidft the deep green fern-like pinnated leaves.
The Erythryna corallodendrum is fix or eight feet high; its prickly limbs ftride and wreathe about with fingular freedom, and its fpikes of crimfon flowers have a fine effect amidft the delicate foliage.
The
The Cactus opuntia is very tall, erect, and large, and ftrong enough to bear the weight of a man: fome are feven or eight feet high: the whole plant or tree feems to be formed of great oval comprefTed leaves or articulations; thofe near the earth continually increafe, magnify and indurate as the tree advances in years, and at length lofe the bright green colour and glofly furface of their youth, acquiring a ligneous quality, with a whitifh fcabrous cortex.   Every part of the plant is nearly destitute of aculea, or thofe fafcicles of barbed bridles which are in fuch plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig. The cochineal infects were feeding on the leaves. The female of this infect: is very large and flefhy, covered with a fine white filk or cottony web, which feels always moift or dewy, and feems defigned by nature to protect them from the violent heat of the fun. The males are very fmall in comparifon to the females, and but very few in number: they each have two oblong pellucid wings.   The large poly-petalous flowers are produced on the edges of the laft year's leaves, are of a fine fplendid yellow, and are fucceeded by very large pear-fhaped fruit, of a dark livid purple when ripe: its pulp is charged with a juice of a fine tranfparent crimfon colour, and has a cool pleafant tafte, fomewhat like that of a pomegranate.   Soon after eating this fruit the urine becomes of the fame crimfon colour, which very much furprifes and affrights a ftranger, but is attended with no other ill confequence; on the contrary, it is eftecmed wholefome, though powerfully diuretic.
On the left hand of thofe open forefts and favannas, as we turn our eyes fouth ward, fouth-weft and weft, we behold an endlefs wild defert, the upper ftratum of the earth of which is a fine white fand, with fmall pebbles, and at fome diftance ap-
M pears
pears entirely covered with low trees and fhrubs of various kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf Sweet Bay, (Laurus Borbonia) Olea Americana, Moms rubra, Myrica cerifera, Ptelea, iEfculus pavia, Quercus Ilex, Q^ glandifer, maritima, fbliis cuneiformibus obfolete trilobis minoribus, Q^ pu-mila, Rhamnus frangula, I Ialefia diptera, & terrap-tera, Cafllne, Ilex aquifolium, Callicarpa John-fonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibifcus fpinifex, Zanthoxylon, Hopea tinctoria, Sideroxylum, with a multitude of other flirubs, many of which were new to me, and fome of them admirably beautiful and fingular. One of them particularly engaged m) ' notice, which, from its fructification, I took to be a fpecies of Cacalia. It is an evergreen fhrub, about fix or eight feet high; the leaves are generally fomewhat cuneiform, flefhy, and of a pale whitiih green, both furfaces being covered With a hoary pubefcence and veficuke, that when preffed feels clammy, and emits an agreeable fcent; the afcend-ent branches terminate with large tufts or corymbes of role coloured flowers, of the Same agreeable fcent; thefe chillers of flowers, at a diftance, look like a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flower (Syn-gencfia Polyg. 7El\u\. Linn.), Cacalia heterophylla, foliis cuneiformibus, carnofis, papil, vifcidis.
Here is alfo another fpecies of the fame genus, but it does not grow quite fo large; the leaves are fmaller, of a yet duller green colour, and the flowers are of a pale rofe; they are both valuable evergreens.
The trees and fhrubs which cover thefe extenfive wilds, are about five or fix feet high, and feem to be kept down by the annual firing of the deferts, rather than the barrennefs of the foil, as I faw a few large Live Oaks, Mulberry trees and llicco-
ries,
ties, which evidently have withstood the devouring flames. Thefe adjoining wild plains, forefts, and iavannas, are fttuated lower than the hilly groves on the banks of the lake and river; but what ftiould be the natural caufe of it I cannot even pretend to conjecture, unlefs one may fuppofe that thofe higli hills, which we call bluffs, on the banks of this great river and its lakes, and which fupport thofe magnificent groves and high forefts, and are generally compofed of fhells and fand, were thrown up to their prefent heighth by the winds and waves, when the bed of the river was nearer the level of the prefent furface of the earth; but then, to reft upon fuch a fuppofltion, would be admitting that the waters were heretofore in greater quantities than at this time, or that their prefent channels and receptacles are worn deeper into the earth.
I now directed my fteps towards my encampment, in a different direction. I feated myfelf upon a Swelling green knoll, at the head of the cryf-tal bafon. Near me, on the left, was a point or projection of an entire grove of the aromatic Illi-cium h'ioridanumi on my right and all around behind me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and Magnolias interfperfed; in front, juft under my feet, was the inchanting and amazing cryftal fountain, which incefiantly threw up, from dark, rocky caverns below, tons of water every minute, forming a bafon, capacious enough for large Shallops to ride in, and a creek of four or five feet depth of water, and near twenty yards over, which meanders fix miles through green meadows, pouring its limpid waters into the great Lake George, where they feem to remain pure and unmixed. A-bout twenty yards from the upper edge of the bafon,
M i and
and directly oppofite to the mouth or outlet of the creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where the waters are thrown up in fuch abundance and amazing force, as to jet and fwell up two or three feet above the common furface: white fand and fmall particles of fhells are thrown up with the waters, near to the top, when they diverge from the centre, fubfide with the expanding flood, and gently link again, forming a large rim or funnel round about the aperture or mouth of the fountain, which is a vaft perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged points of which are projected out on every fide. Thus far I know to be matter of real fact, and I have related it as near as I could conceive or exprefs myfelf. But there are yet remaining fcenes iiiexpreffibly admirable and pleafing.
Behold, for inflance, a vaft circular expanfe before you, the waters of which are fo extremely clear as to be abfolutely diaphanous or tranfparent as the ether; the margin of the bafon ornamented with a great variety of fruitful and floriferous trees, fhrubs, and plants, the pendant golden Orange dancing on the furface of the pellucid waters, the balmy air vibrating with the melody of the merry birds, tenants of die encircling aromatic grove.
At the fame inftant innumerable bands of fiih are feen, fome clothed in the moft brilliant colours; the voracious crocodile ftretched along at full length, as the great trunk of a tree in fize; the devouring garfifh, inimical trout, and all the varieties of gilded painted bream; the barbed catfifh, dreaded fting-ray, fkate, and flounder, fpotted bafs, lheeps head and ominous drum; all in their fepa-rate bands and communities, with free and unfuf-
picious
picious intercourfe performing their evolutions: there are no figns of enmity, no attempt to devour each other; the different bands feem peaceably and complaifantly to move a little afide, as it were to make room for others to pafs by.
But behold yet Something far more admirable, fee whole armies defcending into an abyfs, into the mouth of the bubbling fountain: they difappear! are they gone for ever? is it real? I raiie my eyes with terror and aftonifhment; I look down again to the fountain with anxiety, when behold them as it were emerging from the blue ether of another world, apparently at a vaft diftance; at their firft: appearance, no bigger than flies or minnows; now gradually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin to paint the fluid.
Now they come forward rapidly, and inftantly emerge, with the elaftic expanding column of cryf-'talline waters, into the circular bafon or funnel: fee now how gently they rife, fome upright, others obliquely, or feem to lie as it were on their fides, fuffering themfelves to be gently lifted or borne up by the expanding fluid towards the furface, failing or floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether: then again they as gently defcend, diverge and move off; when they rally, form again, and rejoin their kindred tribes.
This amazing and delightful fcene, though real, appears at firft but as a piece of excellent painting; there feems no medium; you imagine the pi&ure to be within a few inches of your^eyes, and. that you may without the leaft difficulty touch any one of the fifh, or put your finger upon the crocodile's eye, when it really is twenty or thirty feet under water.
M 3 And
And although this paradifc of fifti may feem to exhibit a juft reprefentation of the peaceable and happy ftate of nature which exifted before the fall, yet in reality it is a mere reprefentation; for the nature of the fiih is the fame as if they were in Lake George or the river; but here the water or element in which they live and move, is fo perfectly clear and tranfparent, it places them all on an equality with regard to their ability to injure or efcape from one another; (as all river fifh of prey, or fuch as feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldy crocodile, take their prey by furprife; Secreting themfelves under covert or in ambufh, until an opportunity offers, when they rufh fuddenly upon them:) but here is no covert, no ambufh ; here the trout freely paffes by the very nofe of the alligator, and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout.
But what is really furprifing is, that the confeiouf-nefs of each others fafety, or fome other latent caufe, fhould fo absolutely alter their conduct:, for here is not the leaft attempt made to injure ordifturb one another.
The fun paffing below the horizon, and night approaching, I arofe from my feat, and proceeding on arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, flipped and repofed peaceably. Rifing early, I employed the fore part of the day in collecting fpecimens of growing roots and feeds. In the afternoon, I left thefe Elyftan fprings and the aromatic groves, and brifkly descended the pellucid little river, re-entering the great lake. The wind being gentle and fur for Mount Royal, I hoifted fail, and fbccefsfully crofting the N. weft bay, about nine miles, came to at Rocky Point, the weft cape or promontory, as we enter the river descending towards Mount Royal:
thefe
thefe rocks are horizontal (labs or flat mafles, rifing out of the lake two or three feet above its furface, and feem an aggregate compotition or concrete of fand, fhells, and calcareous cement, of a dark gray or dufky colour. The Hones are hard and firm enough for buildings, and ferve very well for light hand mill-Hones; and when calcined afford a coarfe lime: they lie in vaft horizontal maffes upon one another, from one to two or three feet in thicknefs, and are eafily ieparated and broken to any fize or form, for the purpofe of building. Rocky Point is an airy, cool, and delightful fituation, commanding a moft ample and pleafing profpect of the lake and its environs; but here being no wood, I re-embarked and failed down a little farther to the ifland in the bay, where I went on fhore at a magnificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, defir-ous of augmenting my collections. I arofe early next morning, and after ranging the groves and favannas, returned, embarked again, and defending, called at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my collections; and bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady who refided there, and who treated me with great hofpitality on my afcent up the river, arrived jn the evening at the lower trading houfe.
CHAP-
CHAP. VI.
On my return from my voyage to the upper ftore, I underftood from the trading company defigned for Cufcowilla, that they had been very active in their preparations, and would be ready to fet off in a few days. I therefore availed myfelf of the little time allowed me to fecure and preferve my collections, againft the arrival of the trading fchooner, which was hourly expected, that every thing might be in readinefs to be fhipped on board her, in cafe fhe Ihould load again and return for Savanna during my abfence.
Every neceffary being now in readinefs, early on a fine morning we proceeded, attended by four men under the conduct of an old trader, whom Mr. M'Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeeper and other chiefs of Cufcowilla, on the fubject of re-eftablifhing the trade, dec. agreeable to the late treaty of St. Auguftine.
For the firft four or five miles we travelled weft-ward, over a perfectly level plain, which appeared before and on each fide of us, as a charming green meadow, thinly planted with low fpreading Pine trees (P. paluftris). The upper ftratum of the earth is a fine white crystalline fand, the very upper furface of which being mixed or incorporated with the afties of burnt vegetables, renders it of fufficient ftrength or fertility to clothe itfelf perfectly with a very great variety of gralfes, herbage, and remarkably low fhrubs, together with a very dwarf fpecies of Palmetto (Corypha pumila ftipit. ferratis).
6 Of
Of the low fhrubs, many were new to me and of a very pleafing appearance, particularly a fpecies of annona (annona incarna, floribus grandioribus pani-culatis); this grows three, four, or five feet high, the leaves fomewhat cuneiform or broad lanceolate, attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or light green colour, covered with a pubefcence or fhort fine down; the flowers very large, perfectly white and fweet fcented, many connected together on large loofe panicles or fpikes j the fruit of the fize and form of a fmall cucumber, the fkin or exterior furface fomewhat rimofe or fcabrous, containing a yellow pulp of the confidence of a hard cuftard, and very delicious, wholefome food.   This feems a variety, if not the fame that I firft remarked, growing on the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Char-lotia, and many other places in Georgia and Kaft Florida; and I obferved here in plenty, the very dwarf decumbent annona, with narrow leaves, and various flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (annona pigmaea). Here is alfo abundance of the beautiful little dwarf kalmia ciliata, already defcribed. The white berried empetrum, a very pretty evergreen, grows here on fomewhat higher and drier knolls, in large patches or clumps, affociated with olea Americana, feveral fpecies of dwarf querci (oaks), vaccinium, Gordonia lafianthus, Andromeda ferruginea, and a very curious and beautiful fhrub which feems allied to the rhododendron, caffine, rhamnus frangula, Andromeda nitida, &c. which being of dark green foliage, diverfify and enliven the landfcape: but what appears very extraordinary, is to behold here, deprefied and degraded, the glorious  pyramidal  magnolia grandiflora, affociated amongft thefe vile dwarfs, and even fome of them rifing above it, though not five feet high; yet ftill
mowing
mowing large, beautiful and expanfive white fragrant bloflbms, and great heavy cones, on flender procumbent branches, fome even lying on the earth; the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident from the vaft excrdcent tuberous roots, covering feveral feet of ground, from which thefe (lender Ihoots fpring.
In fuch clumps and coverts are to be feen feveraj kinds of birds, particularly a fpecies of jay (pica-glandaria cerulea non criftata): they are generally of an azure blue colour, have no crcft or tuft of feathers on the head, nor are they fo large as the great crefted blue jay of Virginia, but are equally clamorous. The towee birds (fringilla eryrhropthal-r ma) are very numerous, as are a fpecies of bluilh gray butcher bird (lanius). Here were alio lizards and makes. The lizards were of that fpecies called in Carolina, fcorpions: they are from five to fix inches in length, of a flender form; the tail in particular is veiy long and fmall: they are of a yellow-ifh clay colour, varied with longitudinal lines or ftripes of a dufky brown colour, from head to tail: they are wholly covered with very fmall fquamse, vibrate their tail, and dart forth and brandilh their forked tongue after the manner of ferpents, when they are furprifed or in purfuit of their prey, which are fcarabci, loculkc, mufci, and other infects; but I do not learn that their bite is poifonous, yet I have obferved cats to be fick foon after eating them. After palling over this extenfive, level, hard, wet favanna, we crolfed a fine brook or rivulet; the water cool and pleafant; its banks adorned with varieties of trees and fhrubs, particularly the delicate cyrilla racemiflora, chionanthus, clethra, nyfta fylvatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formo-fifiima: and here were great quantities of a very
large
large and beautiful filix ofmunda, growing in great tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet, we palfed over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered with a fine fhort grafs, with abundance of low faw palmetto, and a few fhrubby pine rrecs, quercus nigra, quercus finuata or fcarlet oak: then the path defcends to a wet bay-gale; the ground a hard, fine, white fand, covered with black flufh, which continues above two miles, when it gently rifes the higher fand hills, and directly after paffes through a fine grove of young long-leaved pines. The foil feemed here, loofe, brown, coarfe, fandy loam, though fertile. The afcent of the hill, ornamented with a variety and profufion of herbaceous plants and graffes, particularly amaryllis atamafco, clitoria, phlox, ipo-mea, convolvulus, verbena corymbofa, ruellia, viola, &c. A magnificent grove of ftately pines, fuc-ceeding to the expanfive wild plains we had a long time traverfed, had a pleafing effect, roufing the faculties of the mind, awakening the imagination by its fublimity, and arrefting every active, inquifitive idea, by the variety of the fcenery, and the folemn fymphony of the fteady Weftern breezes, playing inceifantly, rifing and falling through the thick ancj wavy foliage.
The pine groves palled, we immediately find ourfelves on the entrance of the expanfive airy pine forefts, on parallel chains of low Swelling mounds, called the Sand Mills; their afcent fo eafy, as to be almoft imperceptible to the progreflive traveller; yet at a diftant view before us in fome degree exhibit the appearance of the mountainous fwell of the ocean immediately after a tempeft; but yet, as we approach them, they infenfibly difappear, and fcem to be loft; and we fhould be ready to conclude
all
all to be a vifionary fcene, were it not for the fpark-ling ponds and lakes, which at the fame time gleam through the open forefts, before us and on every fide, retaining them in the eye, until we come up with them. And at laft the imagination remains flattered and dubious, by their uniformity, being moftly circular or elliptical, and almoft fur-rounded with expanfive green meadows; and always a picturefque dark grove of live oak, magnolia, gordonia, and the fragrant orange, encircling a rocky ftiaded grotto of tranfparent water, on fome border of the pond or lake; which, without the aid of any poetic fable, one might naturally fuppofe to be the facred abode or temporary refi-dence of the guardian fpirit; but is actually the polleftion and retreat of a thundering abfolute crocodile.
Arrived early in the evening at the Halfway pond, where we encamped and flayed all night. This lake fpreads itfelf in a fpacious meadow, beneath a chain of elevated fand hills: the fheet of water at this time was about three miles in circumference ; the upper end, juft under the hills, furrounded by a crefcent of dark groves, which ftiaded a rocky grotto. Near this place was a Hoping green bank, _ terminating by a point of flat rocks, which projected into the lake, and formed one point of the crefcent that partly furrounded the vaft grotto or bafon of tranfparent waters, which is called by the traders a fink-hole, a fingular kind of vortex or conduit, to the fubterranean receptacles of the waters; but though the waters of thefe ponds, in the fummer and dry feafons, evidently tend towards thefe finks, yet it is fo flowly and gradually, as to be almoft imperceptible.   There is always a
meandering
meandering channel winding through the favannas or meadows, which receives the waters fpread over them, by feveral lateral fmaller branches, flowly conveying them along into the lake, and finally into the bafon, and with them nations of the finny tribes.
Juft by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed our encampment, where I enjoyed a comprehenfive and varied fcene, the verdant meadows fpread abroad, charmingly decorated by green points of graffy lawns and dark promontories of wood-land, projecting into the green plains.
Behold now at ftill evening, the fun yet Streaking the embroidered Savannas, armies of fifh were pur-Suing their pilgrimage to the grand pellucid fountain; and when here arrived, all quiet and peaceable, encircling the little cerulean hemifphere, they defcend into the dark caverns of the earth; where, probably, they are feparated from each other, by innumerable paths, or fecret rocky avenues; and after encountering various obftacles, and beholding new and un-thought of fcenes of pleafure and difguft, after many days abfence from the furface of the world emerge again from the dreary vaults, and appear exulting in gladnefs, and fporting in the tranfparent waters of fome far diftant lake.
The various kinds of fifh and amphibious animals, that inhabit thefe inland lakes and waters, may be mentioned here, as many of them here affem-bled, pafs and repafs in the lucid grotto: firft the crocodile alligator: the great brown fpotted garr, accoutred in an impenetrable coat of mail: this admirable animal may be termed a cannibal amongft fifh, as fifh are his prey; when fully grown lie is
from
from five to fix feet in length, and of proportionable thickncfs, of adufky brov/n colour, Spotted with black. The Indians make ufe of their Sharp teeth to fcratch or bleed themfelves with, and their pointed fcales to arm their arrows. This fifh is fometimes eaten, and, to prepare them for food, they cover them whole in hot embers, where they bake them; the fkin with the fcales eafily peels off, leaving the meat white and tender.
The mud fifh is large, thick or round, and two feet in length; his meat white and tender, but foft and taftes of the mud, and is not much efteemed. The great devouring trout and catfish are in abundance ; the golden bream or funfifh, the red bellied bream, the filver or white bream, the great yellow and great black or blue bream, alio abound here. The laft of thefe mentioned, is a large, beautiful, and delicious fifh; when full grown they are nine inches in length, and five to fix inches in breadth; the whole body is of a dull blue or indigo colour, marked with tranlverfc lifts or zones of a darker colour, fcatteringly powdered with fky blue, gold and red fpecks; tins and tail of a dark purple or livid fiefh colour; the ultimate angle of the branchioftega forming a fpatula, the extreme end of which is broad and circular, terminating like the feather of the peacock's train, and having a brilliant fpot or eye like it, being delicately painted with a fringed border of a fire colour.
The great yellow or particoloured bream is in form and proportion much like the forementioned, but larger, from afoot to fifteen inches in length; his back from head to tail is of a dark clay and dufky colour, with tranfverfe daftics or blotches, of red-difh dull purple, or bluifh, according to different
expofures
expofures to light; the fides and belly of a bright pale yellow; the belly faintly ftained with vermilion red, infenfibly blended with the yellow on the fides, and all garnilbed with fiery, blue, green, gold and filver fpecks on the fcales; the branchioftega is of a yellowilh clay or ftraw colour; the lower edge or border next the opening of the gills, is near a quarter of an inch in breadth, of a fea green or marine blue; the ulterior angle protends backwards to a confiderable length, in the form of a fpatula or feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of a deep black or crow colour, reflecting green and blue, and bordered round with fiery red, Ibmewhat like red fealing wax, representing a brilliant ruby on the fide of the fifh; the fins reddifh, edged with a dove colour: it is defervedly efteemed a moft excellent fifh.
Here are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes, and ponds of Eaft Florida, the great foft fhelled tor-toifes*: they are very large when full grown, from twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extremely fat and delicious, but if eaten to excels, are apt to purge people not accuftomed to eat their meat.
They are flat and very thin; two feet and a half in length, and eighteen inches in breadth acrofs the back; in form, appearance,-and texture, very much ■refembling the fea turtle: the whole back fhell, except the vertebra or ridge, which is not at all prominent, and ribs on each fide, is foft or cartilaginous, and eafily reduced to a jelly when boiled; the anterior and pofterior extremities of the back fhell, appear to be embotfed with round,
* TcftuJo nafn cylindracfo clongato, truncato.
3 horny
horny warts or tubercles j the belly or nether fhell is but fmall and femicartilaginous, except a narrow crofs bar connecting it at each end with the back fhell, which is hard and offeous; the head is huge and clubbed, of nearly an oval form; the upper mandible, however, is protended forward, and truncated, fomewhat refembling a fwine's fnout, at the extreme end of which the noftrils are placed; on each fide of the root or bafe of this probofcis are the eyes, which are large; the upper beak is hooked and fharp, like a hawk's bill; the lips and corners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled, and barbed with long, pointed warts, which he can project and contract at pleafure, which gives the creature a frightful and difagreeable countenance. They bury themfelves in the flufhy bottoms of rivers and ponds, under the roots of flags and other aquatic herbage, leaving a hole or aperture juft fufficient for their head to play through; to fuch places they withdraw themfelves when hungry, and there feize their prey by furprife, darting out their heads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary animal that unfortunately ftrolls within their reach: they can extend their neck to a furprifing length, which enables them to feize young fowl fwimming on the furface of the water above them, which they inftantly drag down. They are feen to raife their heads above the furface of the water, in the depths of the lakes and rivers, and blow, caufing a faint puffing noife, fomewhat like a porpoife; probably this is for paftime, or to charge themfelves with a proper fupply of frefh air. They are carnivorous, feeding on any animal they can feize, particularly young ducks, frogs, and fifh.
We had a large and fat one ferved up for our
fupper,
flipper, which I at firft apprehended we had made a very extravagant wafte of, not being able to con-fume one half of its flefh, though excellently well cooked: my companions, however, feemed regard-lefs, being in the midft of plenty and variety, at any time within our reach, and to be obtained with little or no trouble or fatigue on our part; when herds of deer were feeding in the green meadows before us; flocks of turkeys walking in the groves around us, and myriads of fiih, of the greateft variety and delicacy, fporting in the crystalline floods before our eyes.
The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crooked limbs of the lofty pines, at a little diftance from us, iharpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting to regale themfelves on the offals, after our departure from camp.
At the return of the morning, by the powerful influence of light, the pulfe of nature becomes more active, and the univerfal vibration of life infenfibly and irrefiftibly moves the wondrous machine. How cheerful and gay all nature appears! Hark! the mu-fical favanna cranes, ere the chirping fparrow flirts from his graffy couch, or the glorious fun gilds the tops of the pines, fpread their expanfive wings, leave their lofty roofts, and repair to the ample plains.
From half-way pond, we proceed Weftward, through the high forefts of Cufcowilla.
The appearance of the earth for five or fix miles prefented nearly the fame fcenes as heretofore.
Now the fand ridges became higher, and their bafcs proportionably more extenfive; the favannas
N and
and ponds more expanfive; die fummitsof the ridges more gravelly*; here and there, heaps or piles of rocks, emerging out of the fand and gravel: thefe rocks are the fame fort of concrete of fand and fhells as noticed at St. Juan's and the great lake. The vegetable productions nearly die fame as already mentioned.
We gently defcended again over fand ridges, crofTed a rapid brook, ripling over the gravelly bed, hurrying the tranfparent waters into a vaft and beautiful lake, through a fine fruitful orange grove, which magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to a great diltance on each fide of the capes of the creek. This is a fine fituation for a capital town. Thefe waters are tributary to St. Juan's.
We alighted to refrefh ourfelves, and adjufl our packs. Here are evident figns and traces of a powerful fettlement of the ancients.
Sat off again, and continued travelling over a magnificent pine foreft, the ridges low, but their bafes extenfive, with proportionable plains. The fteady breezes gently and continually riling and filling, fill the high lonefome forefts with an awful reverential harmony, inexpreffibly fublime, and not to be enjoyed any where, but in thefe native wild Indian regions.
Crofling another large deep creek of St. Juan's, the country is a vaft level plain, and the foil good for the diltance of four or five miles, though light and fandy, producing a foreft of ftately pines and laurels, with fome others; and a vaft profufion of herbage, iiich as rudbeckia, helianthus, filphium, polymnia, ruellia, verbena, rhexea, convolvulus, fo-
phora,
phora, glycine, vitia, clitorea, ipomea, nrtica, falvla graveolens, viola, and many more. How cheerful and focial is the rural converfe of the various tribes of tree frogs, whilft they look to heaven for prolific ihowers! How harmonious the thrill tuneful fongs of the wood thrufh, and the foothing love lays of the amorous cuckoo *, feared in the cool leafy blanches of the ftately magnolias and fhadowy elms, maples and liquidambar, together with gigantic fagus fylvatica, which fhade and perfume thefe fequef-tered groves! How unexpected and enchanting the enjoyment, after traverfing a burning fandy de-fert!
Now, again, we behold the open pine forefts, and afcend the fandy hills, which continue for fome milesj then gently defcend again, when a level expanfive favanna plain prefents itfelf to view, which, after entering, and proceeding on, becomes wet and covered by a fine fhort grafs, with extenfive parterres of the dwarf creeping palmetto, its ftipes iharply toothed r or ferrated, together with clumps of low Ihrubs, as kalmia, Andromeda, annona pygmea, myrica ceri-fera, empetrum, vaccinium, and others.
We now afcend a little again, and pafs through a narrow pine foreft; when fuddenly opens to view a vaftly extenfive and fedgy marfh, expanding Southerly like an open fan, feemingly as boundlefs as the great ocean: our road crofting the head of it, about three hundred yards over; the bottom here was hard fand, a foot or more under a foft muddy furface. The traders informed me, that thefe vaft marfhes lie on the bordeis of a great lake, many miles in length,  in  magnitude exceeding Lake
* Cuculus Carol! nienfis.
N i George,
George, and communicating with St. Juan's by a river *j its confluence above the lower it ore at the Little Lake,
Obferved as we palled over the land hills, the dens of the great land tortoife, called gopher: this ft range creature remains yet undefcribed by hifto-rians and travellers. The firft figns of this animal's exiftence, as we travel Southerly, are immediately after we crois the Savanna River. It is to be feen only on the high dry Sand hills. "When arrived at its greateft magnitude, the upper fhell is near eighteen inches in length, and ten or twelve inches in breadth j the back is very high, and the fhell of a very hard bony fubftance, confifting of many regular compartments, united by futures, in the manner of the other ipecies of tortoife, and covered with thin horny plates. The nether or belly fhell is large, and regularly divided tranfverfely into five parts: thefe compartments are not knit together like the futures of the fkull, or the back ftiell of the tortoife, but adhere, or are connected together by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which ferves as hinges for him to fhut up his body within his fhell at pleafure. The fore part of the belly fhell towards its extremity is formed fomewhat like a fpade, extends forward near three inches, and is about an inch and an half in breadth; its extremity is a little bifid; the pofterior divifion of the belly fhell is likewife protended backwards confiderably, and is deeply bifurcated.
The legs and feet are covered with flat horny fquamsj he feems to have no clefts in them or toes, but long flattiih nails or talons, fomewhat la
♦ Crcat Qckli-Wuiia.
refemblance
refemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five on the fore feet; the hind legs or feet appear as if truncated, or as ftumps of feet, armed all round with fharp, flattilh ftrong nails, the number undetermined or irregular; the head is of a moderate fize; the upper mandible a little hooked, the edges hard and fharp j the eyes are large; the nofe picked; the noftrils near together and very minute f the general colour of the animal is a light alh or clay, and at a diftance, unlefs it is in motion, any one would difregard or overlook it as a ftone or an old ftump. It is aftonifhing what a weight one of thefe creatures will bear; it will cafily carry any man Standing on its back, on level ground. They form great and deep dens in the fand hills, cafting out incredible quantities of earth. They are efteemed excellent food. The eggs are larger than a mufket ball, perfectly round, and the ihell hard.
After crofting over this point or branch of the marines, we entered a noble foreft, the land level, and the foil fertile, being aloofe, dark brown, coarfe fandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation: the foreft confifted of orange groves, overtopped by grand magnolias, palms, live oaks, juglans cinerea, mortis rubra, fagus fylvatica, tilia, and liquidambar; with various kinds of fhrubs and herbaceous plants, particularly callicarpa, halefia, fambucus, zanthoxylon, ptelea, rhamnus frangula, rudbeckia, filphi-um, polymnia, indigo fera, fophora, falvia graveo-lens, &c. We were cheerfully received in this hofpitable fhade, by various tribes of birds; their Sprightly fongs feemed a prelude to the vicinity of human habitations. This magnificent grove was a wing of the vaft forefts lying upon the coaft of the great and beautiful lake of Cufcowilla, at no great
N 3 diftance
diftance from us. Continuing eight or nine miles through this fublime foreft, we entered on an open foreft of lofty pines and oaks, on gently Swelling fand hills, and prefently faw the lake, its waters fparkling through the open groves. Near the path was a large artificial mound of earth, on a moft charming, high fituation, fuppofed to be the work of the ancient Floridans or Yamafees; with other traces of an Indian town. Here were three or four Indian habitations i the women and children faluted us with cheer-fulnefs and complaifance. After riding near a mile farther, we arrived at Cufcowilla, near the banks: a pretty brook of water ran through the town, and entered the lake juft by.
We were welcomed to the town, and conducted by the young men and maidens to the chief's houfe, which flood on an eminence, and was diftinguilhed from the reft by its Superior magnitude, a large flag being hoifted oft a high ftaff at one corner. We immediately alighted: the chief, who is called thq Cowkeeper, attended by feveral ancient men, came to us, and in a very flee and Sociable manner, Shook our hands, or rather arms, (a form of falutation peculiar to the American Indians) faying at the fame time, " You are come." We followed him to an apartment prepared for the reception of their guefts.
The pipe being filled, it is handed around; after which a laige bowl, with what they call Ci thin drink," is brought in and fet down on a fmall low table. In this bowl is a great wooden ladle; each perfon takes Up in it as much as he pleafes, and after drinking until Satisfied, returns it again into the bowl, pufhing the handle towards the next perSon in the circle; and So it goes round.
After
After the ufual compliments and inquiries relative to our adventures, &c. the chief trader informed the Cowkeeper, in the prefence of his council or attendants, the purport of our bufinefs, with which he exprefTed his iatisfaction. He was then informed what the nature of my errand was, and he received me with complaifance, giving me unlimited permif-fion to travel over the country for the purpofe of collecting flowers, medicinal plants, &c. Saluting me by the name of Puc Fuggy, or the Flower hunter, recommending me to the friendihip and protection of his people.
The next day being agreed on to hold a council and tranfadl the bufinefs of our embaffy, we acquainted the chief with our intention of making our encampment on the borders of the great Alachua Savanna, and to return at the time appointed to town, to attend the council according to agreement.
Soon after we had fixed on the time and manner of proceeding on the further fettlement of the treaty, a confiderable number of Indians affembled around their chief, when the conversation turned to common and familiar topics.
The chief is a tall well made man, very affable and cheerful, about fixty years of age, his eyes lively and full of fire, his countenance manly and placid, yet ferocious, or what we call favage, his nofe aquiline, his drels extremely Simple, but his head trimmed and ornamented in the true Creek mode. He has been a great warrior, having then attending him as flaves, many Yamafee captives, taken by himfelf when young.    They were dreffed better
N 4 than
than he, and fervcd and waited upon him -with figns of the moft abjed fear. The manners and cuftoms of the Alachuas, and moft of the lower Creeks or Siminoles, appear evidently tinctured with Spaniih civilization. Their religious and civil ufages mani-feft a predilection for the Spaniih cuftoms. There are feveral Chriftians among them, many of whom wear little filver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum collar round their necks, or fufpended by a fmall chain upon their breaft. Thefe are faid to be baptized; and notwithftanding moft of them fpeak and underftand Spaniih, yet they have been the moft bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards ever had. The flaves, both male and female, are permitted to marry amongft them: their children are free, and confidered in every refpect equal to themfelves; but the parents continue in a ftate of flavery as long as they live.
In obferving thefe flaves, we behold at once, in their countenance and manners, the ftriking contrail betwixt a ftate of freedom and flavery. They are the tameft, the moft abject creatures that we can poflibly imagine: mild, peaceable, and tractable, they feem to have no will or power to act but as directed by their mailers; whilft the free Indians, on the contrary, are bold, active, and clamorous. They differ as widely from each other as the bull from the ox.
The rrpaft 19 now brought in, confifting of veni-fon, ftewed with bear's oil, freih corn cakes, milk, and homony; and our drink, honey and water, very cool and agreeable. After partaking of this banquet^ we took leave and departed for the great favanna.
We
We foon entered a level, graffy plain, inter-fperfed with low, fpreading, three-leaved Pine-trees, large patches of low fhrubs, confifting of Prinos glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of feveral fpecies, and many other fhrubs, with patches of Palmetto. We continued travelling through this favanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when the land afcends a little; we then entered a hommock or dark grove, confifting of various kinds of trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma, Citrus Aurantium, Quercus fempervirens, Morus rubra, Ulmus fylvatica, 'i ilia, Juglans cinerea, /Efculus pa-via, Liquidambar, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tincrx>-ria, Cercis, Cornus Florida, Halefia diptera, Ha-lefia tetraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa, Andromeda arborea, Sidcroxylon fericium, Sid. tenax, Vitis labrufca, Hedera arborea, Hedera quinqucfo-lia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunus Carohniana (pr. flor. racemofis, foliis fempervirentibus, lato-Ianceolatis, acuminatis, ferratis) Fagus fylvatica, Zanthoxylon clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Frax-inus excelfior, with many others already mentioned. The land ftill gently (fifing, me i°il fertile, loofe, loamy, and of a dark brown colour. This continues near a mile; when at once opens to view the moft hidden tranfition from darknefs to light, that can poffibly be exhibited in a natural land-fcape.
The extenfive Alachua favanna is a level green plain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in circumference, and fcarcely a tree or bufh of any kind to be feen on it. it is encircled with high, floping hills, covered with waving . forefts and fragrant Orange groves, riling from an exuberantly fertile foil. The towering Magnolia grandiflora and tranfcen-
dent
dent Palm, Hand confpicuous amongft them. At the fame time are feen innumerable droves of cattle ; the lordly bull, lowing cow, and fleek capricious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their cheerful, facial voices. Herds of fprightly deer, fquadions of the beautiful fleet Siminolc horfe, flocks of turkey?, civilized communities of the fo-norous watchful crane, mix together, appearing happy and contented in the enjoyment of peace, till diiiurbed and affrighted by the warrior man. Behold yonder, coming upon them through the darkened groves, fhcakingly and unawares, the naked red warrior, invading the Elyfian fields and green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appearance of the painted, fearlefs, uncontrolled, and free Siminole, the peaceful innocent nations are at once thrown into diforder and difmay. See the different tribes and bands, how they draw towards each other! as it were deliberating upon the general good. Suddenly they fpeed off with their young in the centre; but the roebuck fears him not: here he lays himfelf down, bathes and flounces in the cool flood. The red warrior, whofe plumed head fiafhes lightning, whoops in vain; his proud ambitious horfe Strains and pants; the earth glides from under his feet, his flowing mane whiffles in the wind, as lie comes up full of vain hopes. The bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rifes up, fills aloft his antlered head, erects the white flag *, and fetching a fhrill whiffle, fays to his fleet and free afTociates, " follow;" he bounds off, and in a few, minutes difhnces his foe a mile; fuddenly he flops, turns about, and laughing fays, " how vain ! go chafe meteors in the azure plains above, or hunt butterflies in the fields about your towns."
* Alluding to his tail.
We
We approached the favanna at the fouth end by a narrow ifthmus ©f level ground, open to the light of day, and clear of trees or bufhes, and not greatly elevated above the common level, having on our rtght a fpacious meadow, embelhified with a little lake, one verge of which was not very diftant from us j its more is a moderately high, circular bank, partly encircling a cove of the pond, in the form of a half moon; the water is clear and deep, and, at the diftance of fome hundred yards, was a large floating field (if I may fo exprefs myfelf) of the Nymphrca nelumbo, with their golden bloftbms waving to and fro on their lofty ftems. Beyond rhefe fields of Nymphsea were fpacious plains, encompalfed by dark groves, opening to extenfive Pine forefts, other plains ftill appearing beyond them.
This little lake and Surrounding meadows would have been alone Sufficient to furprife and delight the traveller; but being placed fo near the great Savanna, the attention is quickly drawn off, and wholly engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, varied, and truly aftonifhing native wild fcenes of landfcape and pcrfpeftive, there exhibited: how is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus, as it were, placed on the borders of a new v\ orld ! On the firft view of fuch an amazing difplay of the wifdom and power of the fupreme author of nature, the mind for a moment feems fufpended, and impelled with awe.
This ifthmus being the common avenue or road of Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a fmall diftance from it, on a rifing knoll near the verge of the favanna, under fome fpreading Live Oaks: this fituation was open and airy, and gave us an unbounded profpect over the adjacent plains. Dewy
evening
evening now came on, the animating breezes, which cooled and tempered the meridian hours of this fultry feafon, now gently ceafed; the glorious fovereign of day, calling in his bright beaming emanations, left us in his abfence to the milder government and protection of the filver queen of night, attended by millions of brilliant luminaries. The thundering alligator had ended his horrifying roar j the filver plumed gannet and ftork, the fage and folitary pelican of the wildernefs, had already retired to their filent nocturnal habitations, in the neighbouring forefts; the fonorous favanna cranes, in well difciplined fquadrons, now rifing from the earth, mounted aloft in fpiral circles, far above the denfe atmofphere of the humid plain; they again viewed the glorious fun, and the light of day ftill gleaming on their polifhed feathers, they fung their evening hymn, then in a Straight line majestically defcended, and alighted on the towering Palms or lofty Pines, their fecure and peaceful lodging places. All around being Still and filent, we repaired to reft.
Soon after fun-rife, a party of Indians on horfe-back appeared upon the favanna, to collect together Several herds of cattle which they drove along near our camp, towards the town. One of the party came up, and informed us, the cattle belonged to the chief of Cufcowilla; that he had ordered fome of the beft Steers of his droves to be flaughtered for a general feaft for the whole town, in compliment of our arrival, and pacific negotiations.
The cattle were as large and fat as thofe of the rich grazing paftures of Moyomenfing in Pennfylva-nia. The Indians drove off the lowing herds, and we foon followed them to town, in order to be at council at the appointed hour, leaving two young men of our party to protect our camp.
Upon
Upon our arrival we repaired to the public fquarc or council-houfe, where the chiefs and fenators were already convened; the warriors and young men af-fembled foon after, the bufinefs being tranfacted in public. As it was no more than a ratification of the late treaty of St. Auguftine, with fome particular commercial Stipulations^ widi reSpect to the citizens of Alachua, the negotiations Soon terminated to the Satisfaction of both parties.
The banquet fuccceded; the ribs and choiceft fat pieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued, were brought into die apartment of the public iquare, conftructed and appointed for feafting; bowls and kettles of ftewed rlefti and broth were brought in for the next courfe, and with it a very fingular difh, the traders call it tripe foup; it is made of the belly or paunch of the beef, not overcleanfed of its contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then made into a thin foup, feafoned well with fait and aromatic herbs; but the feafoning not quite ftrong enough to extinguilh its original favour and fcent. This difh is greatly efteemed by the Indians, but is, in my judgment, the leaft agreeable they have amongft them.
The town of Cufcowilla, which is the capital of the Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations, each of which confifts of two houfes nearly the fame fize, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide, and about the fame in height. The door is placed midway on one fide or in the front. This houfe is divided equally, acrois, into two apartments, one of which is the cook room and common hall, and the other the lodging room. The other houfe is nearly of the fame dimensions, ftanding about twenty yards fr om the dwelling houfe, its end fronting 6 the
the door. This building is two ftories high, and constructed in a different manner. It is divided tranA verfely, as the other, but the end next the dwelling houfe is open on three fides, fupported by polls or pillars. It has an open loft or platform, the afcent to which is by a portable itair or ladder: this is a pleafant, cool, airy fituation, and here the mafter or chief of the family retires to repofe in the hot Seafons, and receives his guefts or vifitors. The other half of this building is clofed on all fides by notched logs; the lowed or ground part is a pota-toe houfe, and the upper ftory over it a granary for corn and other provifions. Their houfes are conftructed of a kind of frame. In the firft place, ftrong corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others fomewhat lefs, ranging on a line between; thefe are ftrengthened by crofs pieces of timber, and the whole with the roof is covered clofe with the bark of the Cyprefs tree. The dwelling Hands near the middle of a Square yard, encompaffed by a low bank, formed with the earth taken out of the yard, which is always carefully Swept. Their towns are clean, the inhabitants being particular in laying their filth at a proper diftance from their dwellings, which undoubtedly contributes to the healthinefs of their habitations.
The town Stands on the moft pleafant fituation that could be well imagined or defired, in an inland country; upon a high Swelling ridge of fand hills, within three or four hundred yards of a large and beautiful lake, the circular fhore of which continually wafhes a fandy beach, under a moderately high Hoping bank, terminated on one fide' by extenfive forefts, confifting of Orange groves, overtopped with grand Magnolias, Palms, Poplar, Ti-8 lia,
Ik, Live Oaks, and others already noticed; and the oppofite point of the crefcent, gradually retires witii hommocky projecting points, indenting the graffy marines, and lattly terminates in infinite green plains and meadows, united with the fkies and waters of the lake. Such a natural landfcape, fuch a rural fcene, is not to be imitated by the united ingenuity and labour of man. At prefent the ground betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an open grove of very tall Pine trees, which (landing at a confiderable diftance from each other, admit a delightful profpect of the fparkling waters. The lake abounds with various excellent fifh and wild fowl; there are incredible numbers of the latter, efpecially in the winter feafon, when they arrive here from the north to winter.
The Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town on the borders of the favanna, and built here, calling the new town Cufcowilla: their reafons for removing their habitation were on account of its un-healthinefs, occafioned, as they fay, by the flench of the putrid fifh and reptiles in the fummer and autumn, driven on fhore by the alligators, and the exhalations from marfhes of the favanna, together with the perfecution of the mufquitoes.
They plant but little here about the town j only a fmall garden fpot at each habitation, confifting of a little Corn, Beans, Tobacco, Citruls, &ci Their plantation, which Supplies them with the chief of their vegetable provifions, fuch as Zea, Convolvulus batata, Cucurbita citrulus, Cue. lagenaria, Cue. pepo, Cue. melopepo. Cue. verrucofa, Do-lichos varieties, cVc. lies on the rich prolific lands bordering on the great Alachua favanna, about two miles diftance.   This plantation is one common en-
clufurc,
clofure, and is worked and tended by the whole community; yet every family has its particular part, according to its own appointment, marked off when planted; and this portion receives the common labour and afTiftance until ripe, when each family gathers and depofits in its granary its own proper fhare, fetting apart a fmall gift or contribution for the public granary, which Hands in the centre of the plantation.
The youth, under the fupervifal of fome of their ancient people, are daily ftationed in their fields, and are continually whooping and hallooing, to chafe away crows, jackdaws, black-birds, and fuch predatory animals; and the lads are armed with bows and arrows, and being trained up to it from their early youth, are fure at a mark, and in the courfe of the day load themfelves with fquirrels, birds, &rc. The men in turn patrole the corn lit Ids at night, to protect their provifions from the depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons, and deer; the two former being immoderately fond of young corn, when the grain is filled with a rich milk, as fweet and nourifhing as cream; and the deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.
After the feaft was over, we returned to our encampment on the great favanna, towards the evening. Our companions, whom we left at the camp, were impatient for our return, having been out horfe hunting in the plains and groves during our abfence. They foon left us, on a vilit to the town, having there fome female friends, with whom they were anxious to renew their acquaintance. The Siminole girls are by no means deftitute of charms to pleafe the rougher fex: the white traders are fully lenfible how greatly it is for their advantage
to
to gain their affections and friendihip in matters of trade and commerce ; and if their love and eiteem for each other is Sincere, and upon principles of reciprocity, there are but few inftances of their neglecting or betraying the intereits and views of their temporary huibands; they labour and watch constantly to promote their private interests, and detect and prevent any plots or evil defigns which may threaten their perfons, or operate againft their trade or bufinefs.
In the cool of the evening I embraced the opportunity of making a folitary excurfion round the adjacent lawns. Taking my fuzce with me, I foon came up to a little clump of fhrubs, upon a Swelling green knoll, where I obferved feveral large Shakes entwined together. I Stepped up near them; they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having no inclination to ftrille at any thing, though I endeavoured to irritate them, in order to difcover their difpofition; nor were they anxious to efcape from me. This fnake is about four feet in length, and as thick as a man's wriit; the upper fide of a dirty afh colour; the fquamrc large, ridged, and pointed ; the belly or under fide of a reddiili dull rlefh colour the tail part not long, but flender, like moft other innocent fnakes. They prey on rats, land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them, continuing my progrefs and refearches, delighted with the ample prolpects around and over the favanna.
Stopping again at a natural fhrubbery, on turning my eyes to fome flowering fhrubs, I obferved near my feet the furprifing glafs fnake (anguis fragilis). It feems as innocent and harmlefs as a worm.   It is, when full grown, two feet and
O an
an half in length, and three-fourths of an inch in thicknefs; the abdomen or body part is remarkably fhort, and it feems to be all tail, which, though long, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet not fmall and flender as in fwitch fnakes. The colour and texture of the whole animal is exactly like bluifti green glafs, which, together with its fragility, almoft perfuades a ftranger that it is in reality of that brittle fubftance: but it is only the tail part that breaks off, which it does like glafs, by a very gentle ftroke from a flender fwitch. Though it is quick and nimble in tvvifting about, yet it cannot run faft from one, but quickly fecretes itfelf at the bottom of the grafs or under leaves. It is a vulgar fable, that it is able to repair itfelf after being broken into feveral pieces; which pieces, common report fays, by a power or faculty in the animal, voluntarily approach each other, join and heal again. The fun now low, fhot the pointed' fhadows of the projecting promontories far on the fkirts of the lucid green plain: flocks of turkeys calling upon their ftrolling aflb-ciates, ciicumfpectly marched onward to the groves and high forefts, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve now arrived. I turned about and regained our encampment in good time.
The morning cool and pleafant, and the ikies ferene, we decamped, purfuing our progrefs round the Alachua favanna. Three of our companions Separating from us, went a-head, and we foon loft fight of them: they again parting on different ex-curfions, in quell of game and in fearch of their horfes, fome entered the furrounding groves and forefts, others ftruck off into the green plains. My companion, the old trader, and myfelf kept together, he 3 being
being the moil: intelligent and willing to oblige me. We coLifted the green verge of the plain, under the furrounding hills, occafionally penetrating and crofting the projecting promontories, as the pathway or conveniency dictated, to avoid the waters and mud which ftill continued deep and boggy near the fteep hills, in fpringy places \ fo that when we came to iiich places, we found it convenient to afcend and coaft round the fides of the hills, or ftrike out a little into the favanna, to a moderately fwelling ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delightful green turf, was pleafant travelling; but then we were under the neceflity of fording creeks or rivulets, which are the conduits or drains of the ihal-low boggy ponds or moraffes juft under the hills. This range or chain of morafTes continues round the fouth and fouth-weft border of the favanna, and appeared to me to be fed or occafioned by the great wet bay-gale or favanna Pine lands, which lie immediately back of the high hilly forefts on the great favanna, part of which we crofted in coming from Cufcowilla j which bottom is a flat, level, hard fand, lying between the fand ridge of Cufcowilla, and thefe eminences of the great favanna; and is a vaft receptacle or reiervoir of the rain waters, which being defended from the active and powerful exhalations of the meridian fun, by the fhadow of the Pine trees, low fhrubs, and grafs, gradually filtering through the fand, drain through thefe hills, and prefent themfelves in innumerable little meandering rills, at the bafes of the fhady heights fronting the favanna.
Our progrefs this day was extremely pleafant, over the green turf, having in view numerous herds of cattle and deer, and fquadrons of horfe, peaceably browzing on the tender, fweet grafs, or (trolling
O 2 through
through the cool fragrant groves on the furroundmg heights.
Befide the continued Orange groves, thefe heights abound with Palms, Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquidambar, and Fagus fylvatica of incredible magnitude, their trunks imitating the lhafts of vaft columns: we obferved Caftine, Primus, Vitis la-brufca, Rhamnus volubilis, and delightful groves of /Efculus pavia, and Prunus Caroliniana, a moft beautiful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of fweet, white bloftbms.
Pafting through a great extent of ancient Indian fields, now grown over with forefts of ftately trees, Orange groves, and luxuriant herbage, the old trader, my aflbciate, informed me it was the ancient Alachua, the capital of that famous and powerful tribe, who peopled the hills furrounding the Savanna, when, in days of old, they could alfemble by thoufands at ball play and other juvenile diverftons and athletic exercifes, over thofe, then happy, fields and green plains. And there is no reafon to doubt of his account being true, as almoft every ftep we take over thofe fertile heights, difcovers remains and traces of ancient human habitations and cultivation. It is the moft elevated eminence upon the favanna ; and here the hills defcend gradually to the favanna, by a range of gentle, grafly banks. Arriving at a Swelling green knoll, at fome diftance in the plains, near the banks of a pond, oppofite the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our meeting again together, it being near night, our aftbeiates foon after joined us, where we lodged. Early next morning we continued our tour; one divifion of our company directing its courfe acrofs the plains to the north coaft: my old companion,
with
with my felt" in company, continued our former rout, coafting the favanna W. and N. W.; and by agreement we were all to meet again at night, at the E, end of the favanna.
We continued fome miles crofting over, from promontory to promontory, the moft enchanting green coves and viftas, fcolloping and indenting the high coafts of the vaft plain. Obferving a company of wolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about a quarter of a mile from fhore, we rode up towards them; they obferving our approach, fat on their hinder parts until we came nearly within fhot of them, when they trotted off towards the forefts, but flopped again and looked at us, at about two hundred yards diftance: we then whooped, and made a feint to purfue them; when they feparated from each other, fome Stretching off into the plains, and others Seeking covert in the groves on fhore. When we got to the trees, we obServed they had been feeding on the carcaSe of a horfe. The wolves of Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly black, except the females, which have a white fpot on the breaft; but they are not fo large as the wolves of Canada and Pennfylvania, which are of a yellowifh brown colour. There were a number of vultures on the trees over the carcafe, who, as foon as the wolves ran off, immediately fettled down upon it; they were however held in restraint and Subordination by the bald eagle (falco leu-cocephalus).
On our route near a long projected point of the coaft, we obferved a large flock of turkeys: at our approach they haftened to the groves. We foon gained the promontory. On the afcending hills were veftiges of an ancient Indian town, now overfha-
O 3 dowed
iq3 travels in
do wed witli groves of the Orange, loaded with both green and ripe fruit, and embellilhed with their fragrant bloom, gratifying the tafte, the fight, and the fmell at the fame inftant.   Leaving this delightful retreat, we foon came to the verge of the groves, when prefented to view a vaft verdant bay of the favanna.   We difcovered a herd of deer feeding at a fmall diftance; upon the fight of us they ran off, taking fbelter in the groves on the oppofite point or cape of this fpacious meadow.   My companions being old expert hunters, quickly concerted a plan for their deftruction.   One of our company immediately ftruck off, obliquely crofting the meadow for the oppofite groves, in order to intercept them, if they fhould continue their courfe op the foreft, to the main; and we croffed Straight over to the point, if poftible to keep them in fight, and watch their motions, knowing that they would make a ftand thereabouts, before they would attempt their laft efcape.   On drawing near the point, we Slackened our pace, and cautioufly entered the groves; when we beheld them thoughdefs and fecure, flouncing in a Sparkling pond, in a green meadow or cove beyond the point; Some were lying down on their fides in the cool waters, wliilft others were prancing like young kids; the young bucks in play fome fport, with their fharp horns hooking and Spurring the others, urging them to Splafh the water.
I endeavoured to plead for their lives j but my old friend, though he was a fenfible rational and good forf of man, would not yield to my philofo-phy. He requefted me to mind our horfes, while he made his approaches, cautioufly gaining ground on them, from tree to tree, when they all fuddenly , Sprang up and herded together: a princely buck who headed the party, whittled and bounded off;
his
his retinue followed; but unfortunately for their chief, he led them with prodigious fpeed out to-wards the favanna very near us, and when patting by, the lucky old hunter fired and laid him prof-trate upon the green turf, but a few yards from us. I lis affrighted followers at the inftant fprang off in every direction, flreaming away like meteors or phantoms, and we quickly loft fight of them. He opened his body, took out the entrails, and placed the carcafe in the fork of a tree, cafting his frock or hunting fhirt over to protect it from the vultures and crows, who follow the hunter as regularly as his own Ihade.
Our companions foon arrived. We fet forward again, enjoying the like fcenes we had already paft; obferved parties of Siminole horfes courfing over the plains, and frequently faw deer, turkeys, and wolves, but they knew their fafety here, keeping far enough out of our reach. The wary, fharp fighted crane, circumfpeclly obferved our progrefs. We faw a female of them fitting on her neft, and rhe male, her mate, watchfully traverfing backwards and forwards, at a fmall diltance; they Suffered us to approach near them before they arofe, when they fpread their wings, running and tipping the ground with their feet fome time, and then mounted aloft, foaring round and round over the neft. They fit upon only two eggs at a time, which are very large, long, and pointed at one end, of a pale alh colour, powdered or fpeckled with brown. The manner of forming their nefts and fitting is very fingular: choofing a tuffock, and there forming a rude heap of dry grafs, or fuch like materials near as high as their body is from the ground, when itanding upon their feet, on the fummit of this
O 4 they
they form the neft of fine foft dry grafs. When they cover their eggs to hatch them, they ftand over them, bearing their bodies and wings over the eggs.
We again came up to a long projecting point of the high forefts, beyond which opened to view an extenfive graffy cove of the favanna, feveral miles in circuit. We crofted ftraight over from this promontory to the oppofite coaft, and on the way were con-Strained to wade a mile or more through the water, though at a little diftance from us it appeared as a delightful meadow, the grafs growing through the water, the middle of which, however, when we came up, proved to be a large fpace of clear water almoft deep enough to fwim our horfes; it being a large branch of the main creek which drains the favanna. After getting through this morafs, we arrived on a delightful, level, green meadow, as ufual, Which continued about a mile, when we reached the firm land; and then gradually afcending, we alighted on a hard fandy beach, which exhibited evident figns of being warned by rhe waves of the Sivan-na, when in the winter feafon it is all under water, and then prefents the appearance of a large lake. The coaft here is much lower than the oppofite fide, which we had left behind us, and rifes from the meadows with a gradual Hoping afcent, covered fcatteringly with low fpreading Live Oaks, Ihort Palms, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Cafline, Si-deroxylon, Quercus nigra, Q_ hnuata, and others; all leaning from the bleak winds that opprefs them. About one hundred yards back from this beach, the fand hills gradually rile, and the open Pine forefts appear. We coafted a mile or two along the peach, then doubled a promontory of high forefts, and foon after came to a fwift running brook of
clear
clear water, rolling over gravel and white fand, which being brought along with it, in its defcent clown the ileeper fandy beach, formed an eafy Swelling bank or bar. The waters fpread gready at this place, exhibiting a fhallow glittering Iheet of clear water, but juft fufficient continually to cover the clear gravelly bed, and feemed to be funk a little below the common furface of the beach. This ftream, however, is foon feparated into a number of rivulets, by fmall fandy and gravelly ridges; and the waters are finally ftolcn away from the fight, by a charming green meadow, but again fecretly uniting under the tall grafs, form a little creek, meandering through the turfy plain, marking its courfe by reeds and rulhes, which fpring up from its banks, joining the main creek that runs through the favanna, and. at length delivers the water into the Great Sink. Proceeding about a mile farther, we came up to and crofted another brook larger than the former, which exhibited the like delightful appearance. We next pa (fed over a level green lawn, a cove of the favanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. We alighted in a pleafant vifta, turning our horfes to graze while we amufed ourfelves with exploring the borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group of rocky hills almoft Surrounds a large bafon, which is the general receptacle of the water, draining from every part of the vaft Savanna, by lateral conduits, winding about, and one after another joining the main creek or general conductor, which at length delivers them into this fink; where they defcend by (low degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bowels of the earth, whence they are carried by fecret Subterraneous channels into other receptacles and bafons.
Wc
"Wc afcended a collection of eminences, covered with dark groves, which is one point of the crefcent that partly encircles the fink or bafon, open only on the fide next the favanna, where it is joined to the great channel or general conductor of the waters. From this point over to the oppofite point of the crefcent (which is a fimilar high rocky promontory) is about one hundred yards, forming a vaft fcmi-circular cove or bafon, the hills encircling it riling very fteep fifty or fixty feet, high, rocky, perpendicular and bare of earth next the waters of the bafon. Thefe hills, from the top of the perpendicular, fluted, excavated walls of rock, flant off moderately up to their fummits, and are covered with a very-fertile, loofe, black earth, which nourifhes and fup-ports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of fhrubs and herbaceous plants.   Thefe high foreft trees furrounding the bafon, by their great height and fpread, fo effectually fhade the waters, that coming fuddenly from the open plains, we feem at once Shut up in darknefs, and the waters appear black, yet are clear.   When we afcend the top of the hills, we perceive the ground to be uneven, by round Swelling points and corresponding hollows, overfpread with gloomy made, occafioned by the tall and Spreading trees, fuch as live oak, mortis rubra, zanthoxylon, fapindus, liquidambar,  tilia, laurus borbonia,  quercus dentata, juglans cinerea, and odiers, together with orange trees of remarkable magnitude and very fruitful. But that which is moft lingular and to me unaccountable, is the mfundibu-lifonia cavities, even on the top of thefe high hills, fome twenty, thirty, and forty yards acrofs, at their Superficial rims exactly circular, as if ftruck with a compafs, doping gradually inwards to a point at bottom.
torn, forming an inverted cone, or like the upper wide part of a funnel: the perpendicular depth of them from the common furface is various, fome defending twenty feet deep, others almoft to the bed of rocks, which forms the foundation or nucleus of the hills, and indeed of the whole country of Eaft Florida: fome of them feem to be nearly filled up with earth, fwept in from the common furface, but retain the fame uniformity; though fometimes fo clofe together as to be broken one into another. But asl (hall have occafion to fpeak further of thefe finks in the earth hereafter, I turn my obfervation to other objects in view round about me.   In and about the Great Sink are to be feen incredible numbers of crocodiles, fome of which are of an enormous fize, and view the paftenger with incredible impudence and avidity; and at this time they are fo abundant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over any part of the bafon and the river upon their heads, which flowly float and turn about like knotty chuncks or logs of wood, except when they plunge or fhoot forward to beat off their affociates, prefling too clofe to each other, or taking up fiih, which continually crowd in upon them from the river and creeks, draining from the favanna, efpecially the great trout, mudfifli, catfifh, and the various fpecies of bream: the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough for their throats, efpecially here, where they have a fuperfluous plenty and variety of thofe that are every way preferable: befides, the gar being, like themfelves, a warlike voracious creature, they feem to be in league or confederacy together, to enflave and devour the numerous defenceless tribes.
It is aftonilhing and incredible, perhaps, I may fay, to relate what unfpeakable numbers of fifh repair
pair to this fatal fountain or receptacle, during the latter fummer feafon and autumn, when the powerful fun beams have .evaporated the waters off the lavanna; where thofe who are fo fortunate as to effect a retreat into the conductor, and efcape the devouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar, defcend into the earth, through the wells and cavities or vaft perforations of the rocks, and from thence are conducted and carried away, by fecret fubterra-ncan conduits and gloomy vaults, to other diftant lakes and rivers. And it does not appear improbable, but that in fome future day this vaft favanna or lake of waters in the winter feafon will be difcovered to be in a great meafure filled with its finny inhabitants, who are Strangers or adventurers from other lakes, ponds, and rivers, by fubterraneous rivulets and communications to this rocky, dark door or outlet, whence they afcend to its furface, fpread over and people the winter lake, where they breed, increafe, and continue as long as it is under water, or during pleafure, for they are at all feafons to be feen afcending and defcending through the rocks: but towards the autumn, when the waters have almoft left the plains, they then crowd to the fink in fuch multitudes, as at times to be feen preiling on in great banks into the bafon, being urged by pur-Suing bands of alligators and gar, and when entering the great bafon or fink, are fuddenly fallen upon by another army of the fame devouring enemies, lying in wait for them. Thoufands are driven on fhore, where they perifh and rot in banks, which was evident at the time I was there, the ftench being intolerable, although then early in the fummer. There are three great doors or vent holes through the rocks in the fink, two near the centre and the other one near the rim, much higher up than the other two,
which
which was confpicuous through the clear water. The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick ltrata or laminae, one over the other, where the link holes or outlets are. Thefe rocks are perforated by perpendicular wells or tubes, four, rive, and fix feet in diameter, exactly circular as die tube of a cannon or walled well; many of thefe are broken into one another, forming a great ragged orifice, appearing fluted by alternate jambs and lemicircular perpendicular niches or excavations.
Having Satisfied my curiofity in viewing this extraordinary place and very wonderful work of nature, we repaired to our retting place, where we found our horfes and mounted again; one of the company parting from us for the buck that we had mot and left in the fork of the tree. My friend, the old trailer, led the fhortelt way acrofs the plain, after repairing the wet moraSs which had almoft Swum our horfes in the morning. At evening we arrived at the place of our deftination, where our affociates foon after rejoined us with fome Indians, who were merry agreeable guefts as long as they Itaid. They were in full drefs and painted; but before dark they mounted their horfes, which were of the true Siminole breed, fet fpurs to them, uttering all at once a Shrill whoop, and went off for Cufcowilla.
Though the horned cattle and horfes bred in thefe meadows are large, fleek, Sprightly, and as fat as can be in general, yet they are fubject to mortal difeafes. I obferved feveral of them dreadfully mortified, their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw, and bleeding, which, like a mortification or flow cancer, at length puts an end to their miferable exiftence.   The traders and Indians call this dif-
eaSe
eaft the water-rot or fcald, and fay it is occafionccl by the warm waters of the favanna, during the heats of fummer and autumn, when thefe creatures wade deep to feed on the water-grafs, which they are immoderately fond of; whereas the cattle which only feed and range in the high forefts and pine favannas are clear of this diforder. A facrifice to intemperance and luxury.
We had heavy rains during the night, and though Very warm, yet no thunder and very little wind. It cleared away in the morning, and the day was very pleafant. Sat off for the Eaft end of the favanna, collecting by the way and driving before us parties of horfes, the property of the traders; and next morning fat off on our return to the lower ftore on St, John's, coafting the favanna yet a few miles, in expectation of finding the remainder of their horfes, though disappointed.
We at laft bid adieu to the magnificent plains of Alachua, entered the pine forefts, and foort fell into the old Spanifh highway, from St. Auguftine acrofs the ifthmus of Florida, to St. Mark's in the bay of Apalache. Its courfe and diftance from E. to W. is, from St. Auguftirie to Fort Picolata on the river St. JUan, twenty-feven miles; thence acrofs the rivef to the Poopoa Fort, three miles; thence to the Alachua Savanna, forty-five miles; thence to Talahafochte'on the river Little St. Juan, feventy-five miles; thence down this river to St. Mark's, thirty miles: the whole diftance from St. Auguftine to St. Mark's, one hundred and eighty miles. But this road having been unfrequented for many years paft, fince the Creeks fubdued the remnant tribes of the ancient Floridans, and drove the Spaniards from their fetdements in Eaft Florida into St. Auguftine,
guftine, which effectually cut off their communication between that garrifbn and St. Mark's; this ancient highway is grown up in many places with trees and fhrubs; but yet has left fo deep a track on the furface of the earth, that it may be traced for ages yet to come.
Leaving the highway on our left hand, we afcended a fandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with ftately pines and oaks, of the latter genus particularly q. iinuata, f. flammula, q. nigra, q. rubra.   Faffed by an Indian village fituated on this high airy fand ridge, confifting of four or five habitations; none of the people were at home, they were out at their hunting camps; we obferved plenty of corn in their cribs. Following a hunting path eight or nine miles, through a vaft pine foreft and graffy favanna, well timbered, the ground covered with a charming carpet of various flowering plants, came to a large creek of excellent water, and here we found the encampment of the Indians, the inhabitants of the little town we had palled; we faw their women and children, the men being out hunting. The women pre-lented themfelves to our view as we came up, at the door of their tents, veiled in their mantle, modeftly fhowing their laces, when we ialuted them. Towards the evening we fell into the old trading path, and before night came to camp at the Halfway Pond. Next morning, after collecting together the horfes, fonve of which had Strolled away at a great diftance, we purfued our journey, and in the evening arrived at the trading houfe on St. Juan's, from a fuccefsful and pleafant tour.
On my return to the ftore on St. Juan's the trading fchooner was there; but as fhe was not to return
turn to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had time to purfue my travels in Florida, and might at leifure plan my cxcuriions to collect feeds and roots in boxes, &£.
At this time the talks (or meftages between the Indians and white people) were perfectly peaceable and friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and the Nation or Upper Creeks. Parties of Indians were coming in every day with their hunts; indeed the Mufcogulges or Upper Creeks very feldom difturb us. Bad talks from the Nation are always very fe-rious affairs, and to the utmoft degree alarming to the white inhabitants.
The Mufcogulges are under a more ftricTb government or regular civilization than the Indians in general. They lie near their potent and declared enemy, the Chactaws. Their country having a vaft frontier, naturally acceftible and open to the incur-fions of their enemies on all fides, they find themfelves under the neceflity of aftbciating in large populous towns, and thefe towns as near together as convenient, that they may be enabled to fuccour and defend one another in cafe of hidden invafion. This confequently occafions deer and bear to be fcarce and difficult to procure, which obliges them to be vigilant and induftrious; this naturally begets care and ferious attention, which we may fuppofe in fome degree forms their natural difpofition and manners, . and gives them that air of dignified gravity, fo ftrik-ingly chara&eriftic in their aged people, and that fteadinefs, juft and cheerful reverence in die middle aged and youth, which fits fo eafy upon them, and appears fo natural. For, however ftrangc it may appear to us, the fame moral duties which with us 6 form
form, the amiable, virtuous character, fo difficult to maintain, there, without compulfion or vifible re-ftraint, operates like inftinct, with a furprifing harmony and natural eafe, infomuch that it feems im-poffible for them to act out of the common high road to virtue.
We will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or Siminoles, and the natural difpofition which characterises this people; when, from the ftriking contrail, the philofopher may approve or difapprove, as he may think proper, from the judgment and opinion given by different men.
The Siminoles are but a weak people with refpedl to numbers. All of them, I fuppofe, would not be fufficient to people one of the towns in the Mufco-gulge; for inftance, the Uches on the main branch of the Apalachucla river, which alone contains near* two thoufand inhabitants. Yet this handful of people poiTelfes a vaft territory; all Eaft Florida and the greateft part of Weft Florida, which being naturally Cut and divided into thoufands of iflets, knolls, and eminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, fwamps, vaft favannas and ponds, form fo many fecure retreats and temporary dwelling places, that effectually guard them from any hidden invafions or attacks from their enemies; and being fuch a fwampy, hom-mocky country, furnifhes fuch a plenty and variety of Supplies for the nouriftiment of varieties of animals, that I can venture to affert, that no part of the globe lb abounds with wild game or creatures fit for the food of man.
Thus they enjoy a fuperabundance of the necef-faries and conveniences of life, with the fecurity of perfon and property, the two great concerns of
P mankind,
mankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and wolves, together with honey, wax and other productions of the country, purchafe their clothing, equipage, and domeitic utenfils from the whites. They feem to be free from want or defires. No cruel enemy to dread; nothing to give them dif-quietude, but the gradual encroachments of the white people. Thus contented and undilturbed, they appear as blithe and free as the birds of the air, and like them as volatile and active, tuneful and vociferous. The vifage, action, and deportment of the Siminoles, form the moft ftriking picture of happinefs in this life; joy, contentment, love, and friendihip, without guile or affectation, feem inherent in them, or predominant in their vital principle, for it leaves them but with the laft breath of life. It even feems impofing a conftraint upon their ancient chiefs and fenators, to maintain a neceflary decorum and Solemnity, in their public councils; not even the debility and decrepitude of extreme old age, is fufficient to erafe from their vifages, this youthful, joyous Simplicity; but like the gray eve of a ferene and calm day, a gladdening, cheering blufh remains on die Weftern horizon after the fun is let.
I doubt not but fome of my countrymen who may read thefe accounts of the Indians, which I have endeavoured to relate according to truth, at leaft as they appeared to me, will charge me with partiality or prejudice in their favour.
I will, however, now endeavour to exhibit their vices, immoralities, and imperfections, from my own obfervations and knowledge, as well as accounts from the white traders, who refide amongft them.
The
The Indians make war againit, kill, and deftrcy their own fpecies, and their motives fpring from the fame erroneous fource as they do in all other nations of mankind; that is, the ambition of exhibiting to their fellows a fuperior character of per-fonal and national valour, and thereby immortalizing themfelves, by transmitting their names with honour and luftre to pofterity; or revenge of their enemy, for public or perfonal infults ; or, laft-ly, to extend the borders and boundaries of their territories. But I cannot find, upon the ftricteft inquiry, that their bloody contefts at this day are marked with deeper ftains of inhumanity or favage cruelty, than what may be obferved amongft the moft civilized nations: they do indeed fcalp their flain enemy, but they do not kill the females or children of either fex: the moft ancient traders, both in the Lower and Upper Creeks, afTured me they never faw an inftance of either burning or tormenting their male captives; though it is faid they ufed to do it formerly. I faw in every town in the Nation and Siminoles that I vifited, more or lefs male captives, fome extremely aged, who were free and in as good circumftances as their mafters; and all flaves have their freedom when they marry, which is permitted and encouraged, when they and their offspring are every way upon an equality with their conquerors. They are given to adultery and fornication, but, I fuppofe, in no greater excefs than other nations of men. They punilh the delinquents, male and female, equally alike, by taking off their ears. This is the punifhment for adultery. Infamy and difgrace is fuppofed to be a fufficient punithment for fornication, in either fex.
They are fond of games and gambling, and amufe P 2 themfelves
themfelves like children, in relating extravagant (lories, to caufe furprife and mirth.
They wage eternal war againft deer and bear, to procure food and clothing, and other neceflaries and conveniences; which is indeed carried to an unreasonable and perhaps criminal excefs, fince the white people have dazzled their fenfes wkh foreign fuper-fluities.
CHAP.
C HAP. VIL
On my return to the trading houfe, from my journey to the great favanna, I found the trading company for little Sr_ Juan's preparing for that port.
My mind yet elate with the various fcenes of rural nature, which as a lively animated picture had been prefented to my view; the deeply engraven impreflion, a pleafing flattering contemplation, gave ftrength and agility to my fteps, anxioufly to prefs forward to the delightful fields and groves of Apa-latche.
The trading company for Talahafochte being now in readinefs to proceed for that quarter, under the direction of our chief trader, in the cool of the morning we fat off, each of us having a good horfe to ride, befides having in our caravan feveral pack horfes laden with provifions, camp equipage, and other neceifaries. A young man from St. Auguftine, in the fervice of the governor of Eaft Florida, accompanied us, commiffioned to purchafe of the Indians and traders, fome Siminole horfes. They are the moft beautiful and fprightly fpecies of that noble creature, perhaps any where to be feen; but are of a fmall breed, and as delicately formed as the American roe buck. A horfe in the Creek or Muf-cogulge tongue is echoclucco, that is die great deer (echo is a deer, and clucco is big). The Siminolc. horfes are faid to defcend originally from the
P 3 Andaluftan
Andcilufian breed, brought here by the Spaniards when they firft eftabliihed the colony of Eaft Florida. From the forehead to their nofe is a little arched or aquiline, and fo are the fine Chactaw horfes among the Upper Creeks, which are faid to have been brought thither from New-Mexico acrofs Miflifippi, by thofe nations of Indians who emigrated from the Weft, beyond the river. Thefe horfes are every way like the Siminole breed, only larger, and perhaps not fo lively and capricious. It is a matter of conjecture and inquiry, whether or not the different foil and fituation of the country may have contributed in fome meafure, in forming and eftablifhing the difference in fize and other qualities betwixt them. I have obferved the horfes and other animals in the high hilly country of Carolina, Georgia, Virginia, and all along our fhores, are of a much larger and ftronger make, than thofe which are bred in the flat country next the fea coaft. A buck-fkin of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees will weigh twice as heavy as thofe of the Siminoles or Lower Creeks, and thofe bred in the low flat country of Carolina.
Our firft day's journey was along the Alachua roads, twenty-five miles to the Half-way Pond, where we encamped: the mufquitoes were excef-ftvely troublefome the whole night.
Decamped early next morning, ftill purfuing the road to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cufcowilla; when the road dividing, one for the town, and the other for the great favanna, here our company feparated. One party chofe to pafs through the town, having fome concerns there. I kept with the party that went through the favanna, it being the
bed road, leading over a part of the favanna j when entering the groves on its borders, we travelled feveral miles over thefe fertile eminences, and delightful fhady fragrant forefts j then again entered upon the favanna, and crofted a charming extenfive green cove or bay of it, covered with a vivid green grafiy turf, when we again afcended the woodland hills, through fruitful orange groves, and under fhadowy palms and magnolias. Now the pine forefts opened to view. We left the magnificent favanna and its delightful groves, pafling through a level, open, airy pine foreft, the ftately trees fcatteringly planted by nature, arifing ftraight and erect, from the green carpet, embelliihed with various grafles and flowering plants; then gradually afcending the fand hills, we foon came into the trading path to Talahafochte; which is generally, excepting a few deviations, the old Spanifh highway to St. Mark's. At about five miles diftance beyond the great favanna, we came to camp late in the evening, under a litde grove of live oaks, juft by a group of ihelly rocks, on the banks of a beautiful little lake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks, as ufual in thefe regions, partly encircle a fpacious fink or grotto, which communicates with the waters of the lake: the waters of the grotto are perfectly tranfparent, cool, and pleafant, and well repleniftied with fiih. Soon after our arrival here, our companions who paired through Cufcowilla joined us. A brifk cool wind during the night kept the perfecting mufquitoes at a djftance.
The morning pleafant, we decamped early: proceeding on, rifing gently for feveral miles, over fandy, gravelly ridges, we found ourfelves in an ele-
P 4 vated,
vated, high, open, airy region, fomewhat rocky, on the backs of the ridges, which prefented to view, on every fide, the molt, dreary, folitary, defert walle I had ever beheld; groups of bare rocks emerging out of the naked gravel and drifts of white fand; the grafs thinly fcattered and but few trees; the pines, oaks, olives, and lideroxylons, poor, mifha-pen, and .tattered; fcarce an animal to be feen, or noife heard, lave the fymphony of the Weftern breeze, through the briftly pine leaves, or folitary fand-cricket's Screech, or at beft the more focial convcrfe of the frogs, in folemn chorus with the fwift breezes, brought from diftant fens and forefts. Next we joyfully entered the borders of the level pine foreft and favannas, which continued for many miles, never out of fight of little lakes or ponds, environed with illumined meadows, the clear waters fparkling through the tall pines.
Having a good fpiritcd horfe under me, I generally kept a-hcad of my companions, which I often chofe to do, as circumftances offered or invited, for the fake of retirement and obfervation.
The high road being here open and fpacious, at a good diftance before me, I obferved a large hawk on the ground in the middle of the road: he feemed to be in diftrefs, endeavouring to rife; when, coming up near him, I found him clofely bound up by a very long coach-whip fnake, that had wreathed himfelf feveral times round the hawk's body, who had but one of his wings at liberty: beholding their ftruggles a while, I alighted off my horfe with an intention of parting them; when, on coming up, they mutually agreed to feparate themfelves, each one feeking his own fafety, probably
confidering
eonildering me as their common enemy. The bird rofe aloft and fled away as foon as he recovered his liberty, and the fnake as eagerly made off. I foon overtook him, but could not perceive that he was wounded.
I fuppofe the hawk had been the aggreflor, and fell upon the fnake with an intention of making a prey of him; and that the fnake dexteroufly and luckily threw himfelf in coils round nis body, and girded him fo clofe as to fave himfelf from destruction.
The coach-whip fnake is a beautiful creature.   When full grown it is fix and feven feet in length, and the largeft part of its body not fo thick as a cane or common walking flick; its head not larger than the end of a man's finger; its neck is very flender,  and from the abdomen tapers away in the manner of a fmall fwitch or coach-whip ; the top of the head and neck, for three or four inches, is as black and fhining as a raven; the throat and belly as white as fnow j and the up per fide of the body of a chocolate colour, excepting the tail part, almoft from the abdomen to the extremity, which is black.   It may be proper to obferve, however, that it varies in refpedt to the colour of the body; fome I have feen almoft white or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay colour, but in all, the head and neck is black, and the tail dark brown or black.   It is extremely fwift, feeming almoft to fly over the furface of the ground; and that which is very fingular, it can run fwiftly on  its tail part only, carrying the head and body upright.   One very fine one accompanied me along the road fide, at a little diftance, raifing himfelf erect, now and then looking
4 me
me in the face, although I proceeded on a good round trot on purpofe to obferve how faft they could proceed in that pofition. His object feemed mere curioiity or observation; with refpect to venom it is as innocent as a worm, and feems to be familiar with man. It appears to be a particular inhabitant of Eaft Florida, though I have feen fome in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia, but in thefe regions it is neither fo large nor beautiful.
We afcended again, pafling over fand ridges of gentle elevation, favannas and open Pine forefts. Maffes or groups of rocks prefented to view on every fide, as before mentioned; and with difficulty we efcaped the circular infundibuliform cavities or finks in the furface of the earth. Generally a group of rocks, ftiaded by Palms, Live Oaks, and Magnolias, is fituated on their limb: fome are partly filled up with earth, whilft others, and the greater number of them, are partly filled with tranfparent cool water, which difcovers the well or perforation through the rocks in the centre. This day being remarkably fultry, we came to camp early, having chofen our fituation under fome ftately Pines, near the verge of a fpacious favanna.
After fome refrefhment, our hunters went out into the foreft, and returned towards evening. A-mongft other game, they brought with them a favanna crane * which they fhot in the adjoining meadows. This ftately bird is about fix feet in length from the toes to the extremity of the beak when extended, and the wings expand eight or nine feet; it is above five feet high when Handing erect; the tail is remarkably fhort, but the flag or pendant
* Grus p.
feathers
feathers which fall down off the rump on each fide, are very long and fharp pointed, of a delicate texture, and filky foftnefsi the beak is very long, ftraight and fharp pointed; the crown of the head bare of feathers, of a reddifh rofe colour, thinly barbed with fhort, ft iff, black hair; the legs and thighs are very long, and bare of feathers a great fpace above the knees: the plumage of this bird is generally of a pale afh colour, with fhades or clouds of pale brown and iky blue, the brown prevails on the fhoulders and back; the barrels of the prime quill-feathers are long and of a large diameter, leaving a large cavity when extracted from the wing: all the bones of this bird have a thin fhell, and confe-quently a large cavity or medullary receptacle. When thefe birds move their wings in flight, their ftrokes are flow, moderate, and regular; and even, when at a confiderable diftance or high above us, we plainly hear the quill, feathers, their ftiafts and \vebs upon one another creak as the joints or working of a veffel in a tempeftuous fea.
We had this fowl d re fifed for flipper, and it made excellent foup; nevcrthelefs, as long as I can get any other neceffary food, I fhall prefer their feraphic mufic in the ethereal fkies, and my eyes and under-Handing gratified in obferving their economy and focial communities, in the expanfive green favannas of Florida.
Next morning we arofe early, and proceeding, gradually clefcended again, and continued many miles along a fiat, level country, over delightful green favannas, decorated with hommocks or iflets of dark groves, confifting of Magnolia grandiflora, Moms tilia, Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Side-roxylon, Quercus fempervirens, Halefia diptera, Cal-hcarpa, Corypha palma, &c. There are always groups 6 of
of whitifh teflaceous rocks and finks where thefe hommocks are.   We next crolfed a wet favanna, which is the beginning of a region ftill lower than that we had traverfed; here we crolfed a rapid rivulet of exceeding cool, pleafant water, where we halted to refreih ourfelves.   But it muft be remarked here, that this rivulet, though lively and rapid at this time, is not a permanent ftream, but was formed by a heavy rain that fell the day before, as was apparent from its bed; befides it is at belt but a jet or mere phantom of a brook, as the land around is rocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavities. Soon after leaving the brook, we paffed off to the left hand, along the verge of an extenfive favanna, and meadows many miles in circumference, edged on one border with detached groves and pompous Palms, and embellifhed with a beautiful fparkling lake; its verges decorated with tall waving grafs and floriferous plants; the pellucid waters gently rolling on to a dark fhaded grotto, juft under a femi-circular fwelling turfy afcent or bank, fkirted by grcves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurels, and Palms. In thefe expanfive and delightful meadows were feeding and roving troops of the fleet Siminole horfe. We halted a while at this grotto; and, after refrelhr ing ourfelves, we mounted horfe and proceeded acrofs a charming lawn, part of the favanna, entering on it through a dark grove.   In this extenfive lawn were feveral troops ot horfe, and our company had the fatisfac"tion of obferving feveral belonging to themfelves.   One occurrence remarkable here, was a troop of horfe under the controul and care of a fmgle black dog, which feemed to differ in no refpecl from the wolf of Florida, except his being able to bark as the common dog.   He was very careful and induftrious in keeping them together;
ther; and if any one ftrolled from the reft at too great a diftance, the dog would fpring up, head the horfe, and bring him back to the company. The proprietor of thefe horfes is an Indian in Talaha-Sochte, about ten miles diftance from this place, who, out of humour and experiment, trained his dog up from a puppy to this bufinefs: he follows his mailer's horfes only, keeping them in a feparate company where they range; and when he is hungry or wants to fee his mafter, in the evening he returns to town, but never ftays at home a night.
The region we had journeyed through, fince we decamped this morning, is of a far better foil and quality than we had yet feen fince we left Alachua; generally a dark grayifti, and fometimes brown or black loam, on a foundation of whitifh marl, chalk, and teflaceous limeftone rocks, and ridges of a loofe, coarfe, reddifti fand, producing ftately Pines in the plains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm, Zanthoxylon, tzc. in the homrrfocks, and alfo in great plenty the perennial Indigo; it grows here five, fix, and feven feet high, and as thick together as if it had been planted and cultivated. The higher ridges of hills afford great quantities of a fpecies of iron ore, of that kind found in New-Jerfey and Pennfylvania, and there called bog ore;  it appears on the furface of the ground in large detached mafles and fmaller fragments; it is ponderous and feemed rich of that moft ufeful metal; but one property remarkable in thefe terrigenous Stones is, that they appear to be bliftered, Somewhat refembling cinders, or as if they had fuffered a violent action of fire.
Leaving the charming favanna and fields of Capo-la, we palled ievcral miles through delightful plains
and
and meadows, litde differing from the environs of Capola, diverfified with rocky iflets or hommocks of dark woodland.
We next entered a van: foreft: of the moft ftately Pine trees that can be imagined, planted by nature at a moderate diftance, on a level, graffy plain, enamelled with a variety of flowering fhrubs, viz. Viola, Ruella infundibuliforma, Amaryllis ata-mafco, Mimofa fenfitiva, Mimofa intfia and many others new to me. This fublime foreft continued five or fix miles, when we came to dark groves of Oaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberries, &c. through which proceeding near a mile, we entered open fields, and arrived at the town of Talahafochte, -on the banks of Little St. Juan.
The river Little St. Juan may, with fingular propriety, be termed the pellucid river. The waters are the cleareft and pureft of any river I ever faw, tranfmitting di{jtin£tly the natural form and appearance of the objects moving in the tranfparent floods, or repofing on the filvery bed, with the finny inhabitants fporting in its gently flowing ftream.
The river at the town is about two hundred yards over, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. The great fwamp and lake Oaquaphenogaw is faid to be its fource, which is about one hundred miles by land North of this place; which would give the river a courfe of near two hundred miles from its fource to the fea, to follow its meanders; as in general our rivers, that run any confiderable diftance through the country to the fea, by their windings and roving about to find a paffage through the ridges and heights, at leaft double their diftance.
The Indians and traders fay that this river has no
branches
branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary to it, but that it is fed or augmented by great fprings which break out through the banks. From the accounts given by them, and my own obfervations on the country round about, it feems a probable af-fertion; for there was not a creek or rivulet to be feen, running on the furface of the ground, from the great Alachua Savanna to this river, a diftance of above feventy miles; yet, perhaps, no part of the earth affords a greater plenty of pure, Salubrious waters. The unparalleled tranfparency of thefe waters furnifties an argument for fuch a conjecture, that amounts at leaft to a probability, were it not confirmed by ocular demonftration; for in all the flat countries of Carolina and Florida, except this ifthmus, the waters of the rivers are, in fome degree, turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annual firing of the forefts and plains; and afterwards the heavy rains waftiing the light furface of the burnt earth into rivulets, which rivulets running rapidly over the furface of the earth, flow into the rivers, and tinge the waters the colour of lye or beer, almoft down to the tide near the fea coaft. But here behold how different the appear-rance, and how manifeft the caufe ! for although the furface of the ground produces the fame vegetable iiibftances, the foil the fame, and fullers in like manner a general conflagration, and the rains, in impetuous fhowers, as liberally defcend upon the parched furface of the ground; yet the earth being fo hollow and porous, thefe Superabundant waters cannot conftitute a rivulet or brook, to continue any diftance on its furface, before they are arrefted in their courfe and Swallowed up; thence defcending, they are filtered through the fsnds and
other
other flrata of earth, to the horizontal beds of porous rocks, which, being compofed of thin feparable laminae, lying generally in obliquely horizontal directions over eacli other, admit thefe waters to pafs on by gradual but constant percolation. Thus collecting and aifociating, they augment and form little rills, brooks, and even Subterraneous rivers, which wander in darknefs beneath the furface of the earth, by innumerable doublings, windings, and Secret labyrinths? no doubt in fome places forming vaft refervoirs and Subterranean lakes, inhabited by multitudes of fiih and aquatic animals: and pof-fibly, when collected into large rapid brooks, meeting irrefiftible obstructions in their courfe, they fuddenly break through thefe perforated fluted rocks,-in high perpendicular jets, nearly to their former' level, flooding large districts of land. Thus by means of thofe fubterranean courfes, the waters are purified and finally carried to the banks of great riversy where they emerge and prefent themfelves to open day-light, with their troops of finny inhabitants, in thofe furprifing vaft fountains near the banks of this riverand like wife on and near the ftiores of Great St. Juan, on the eaft coaft of the ifthmus, fome of which I have already given an account of
On our arrival at Talahaibchte, in the evening we repaired to the trading houfe formerly belonging to our chief, where were a family of Indians,-who immediately and complaifantly moved out to accommodate us. The White King with moft of the male inhabitants were out hunting or tending their Corn plantations.
The town is delightfully fituated on the elevated eaft banks of the river, the ground level to near the river, when it defcends fuddenly to the water;
I fuppofe
I iuppofe the perpendicular elevation of the ground may be twenty or thirty feet. There are near thirty habitations conftrucled after the mode of Cufcowilla i bUt here is a more fpacious and neat council-houfe.
Thefe Indians have large handiome canoes, which they form out of the trunks of Cyprefs trees (Cu-prelTus difticha), fome of them commodious enough to accommodate twenty or thirty warriors. In thefe large canoes they defcend the river on trading and hunting expeditions to the fea coaft, neighbouring iflands and keys, quite to the point of Florida, and fometimes crofs the gulph, extending their navigations to the Bahama iflands and even to Cuba: a crew of thefe adventurers had juft arrived, having returned from Cuba but a few days before our arrival, with a cargo of fpirituous liquors, Coffee, Sugar, and Tobacco. One of them politely prefent-ed me with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he told me he had received from the governor of Cuba.
They deal in the way of barter, carrying with them deer (kins, furs, dry fiih, bees-wax, honey, bear's oil, and fome other articles. They fay the Spaniards receive them very friendlily, and treat them with the beft fpirituous liquors.
The Spaniards of Cuba likewife trade here or at St. Mark's, and other fea ports on the weft coaft of the ifthmus, in fmall (loops; particularly at the bay of Calos, where are excellent fiftiing banks and grounds; not far from which is a confiderable town of the Siminoles, where they take great quantities of fi(h, which they fait and cure on Ihore, and barter with the Indians and traders for (kins, furs, &c. and return with their cargoes to Cuba.
CL The
The trader of the town of Talahafochte informed me, that he had, when trading in that town, large fupplies of goods from thefe Spaniih trading vefTels, fuitable for that trade, and fome very effential articles, on more advantageous terms than he could purchafe at Indian ftores either in Georgia or St. Auguftine,
Towards the evening after the fultry heats were paft, a young man of our company, having previously procured the loan of a canoe from an Indian, propofed to me a fifhing excurfion for trout with the bob. We fet off down the river, and before we had patted two miles, caught enough for our houfhoid: he was an excellent hand at this kind of diverftbn: fome of the fifti were fo large and ftrono-in their clement, as to fliake his arms ftoutly and drag us with the canoe over the floods before we got them in. It is in the eddy coves, under die points and turnings of the river, where the fur-lace of the waters for fome acres is covered with the leaves of the Nymphea, Piftia, and other amphibious herbs and grafs, where the haunts and retreats of this famous fifh are, as well as others of various tribes.
Obferving a fifhing canoe of Indians turning a point below and coming towards us, who hailed us, we waited their coming up; they were cheerful merry fellows, and infilled on our accepting of part of their fifh; they having a greater quantity and variety, efpecially of the bream, mv favourite fifh, we exchanged fome of our trout with them.
Our chief being engaged with the chiefs of the town in commercial concerns, and others of our company out in the forefts with the Indians, hunting
Ihg up horfes belonging to the trading company; the young interpreter, my companion, who was obliging to me, and whom our chief previoufly recommended to me as an alfociate, propoled to me another little voyage down the river. This was agreeable to me, being defirous of increafing my obfervations during our continuance at Talahafr ochte; as when the White King mould return to town (which was expected every hour) we intended after audience and treaty to leave them and encamp in the forefts, about fifteen miles diftance and nearer the range of their horfes.
Having Supplied ourfelves with ammunition and provifion, we fet off in the cool of the morning, and defcended pleafantly, riding on the cryftal flood, which flows down with an eafy, gentle, yet active current, rolling over its Silvery bed. How abundantly are the waters replenished with inhabitants ! the Stream almoft as transparent as the air we breathe; there is nothing done in Secret except On its green flowery verges, where nature, at the Command of the Supreme Creator, hath fpread a mantle, as a covering and retreat at fuitable and convenient times, but by no means a fecure refuge from the voracious enemy and purfuer.
Behold the watery nations, in numerous bands roving to and fro, amidft each other; here they feem all at peace; though, incredible to relate! but a few yards off, near the verge of the green mantled ihore there is eternal war, or rather (laughter. Near the banks the waters become turbid, from fubftances gradually diverging from each fide of the Swift channel, and collections of opaque particles whirled to ihore by the eddies, which afford a kind of nurfcry for
Q^2 young
young fry, and its flimy bed is a prolific nidus for generating and rearing of infinite tribes and fwarms of amphibious infects, which are the food of young fiih, who in their turn become a prey to the older. Yet when thofe different tribes of filli are in the tranfparent channel, their very nature feems abfo-lutely changed; for here is neither defire to deftroy nor perfecute, but all feems peace and friendihip. Do they agree on a truce, a fufpenfion of hostilities ? or by Some Secret divine influence, is defire taken away? or they are otherwife rendered incapable of purfuing each other to deftruction ?
About noon we approached the admirable Manate Spring, three or four miles down the river. This charming nymphaeum is the product of primitive nature, not to be imitated, much lefs equalled, by the united effort of human power and ingenuity! As we approach it by water, the mind of the inquiring traveller is previoufly entertained, and gradually led on to greater difcovery; firft by a view of the fublime dark grove, lifted up on Ihore, by a range or curved chain of hills, at a fmall diftance from the lively green verge of the river, on the eaft banks; as we gently defcend floating fields of the Nymphaea nelumbo, interfected with viftas of the yellow green Piftia ftratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of the river oppofite the circular woodland hills.
It is amazing and almoft incredible, what troop* and bands of fiih and other watery inhabitants are now in fight, all peaceable; and in what variety of gay colours and forms, continually afcending. and defcending, roving and figuring amongft one another, yet every tribe aflbciating feparateiy. We now afcended the cryftal ftream; the current fwift:
we
we entered the grand fountain, the expanfive circular bafon, the fource of which arifes from under the bafes of the high woodland hills, nearly half encircling it.   The ebullition is aftonifhing, and continual, though its greateft force of fury intermits, regularly, for the fpace of thirty feconds of time: the waters appear of a lucid fea green colour, in fome meafure owing to the reflection of the leaves above: the ebullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vaft ragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a great depth below the common furface of the bafon, throwing up fmall particles or pieces of white fhells, which fubfide with the waters at the moment of intermiftion, gently fettling down round about the orifice, forming a vaft funnel.   At thofe moments, when the waters rufh upwards, the furface of the bafon immediately over the orifice is greatly fwollen or raifed a confiderable height; and  then it is importable to keep the boat or any other floating veffel over the fountain; but the ebullition quickly fubfides; yet, before the furface becomes quite even, the fountain vomits up the waters again, and fo on perpetually.   The bafon is generally circular, about fifty yards over; and the perpetual ftream from it into the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, and ten or twelve feet in depth; the bafon and ftream continually peopled with prodigious numbers and variety of fifh and other animals; as the alligator, and the manate * or fea cow, in the winter feafon. Part of a fkeleton of one, which the Indians had killed laft winter, lay upon the banks of the fpring: the grinding teeth were about an inch in diameter; the ribs eighteen inches in length, and two inches and an half in thicknefs, bending with a gentle curve. This bone is efteemed equal to ivory.  The flefh of t|iis
* Trichecus naanatus.   Sea cu\y.
Q^3 creature
creature is counted wholefome and pleafant food; the Indians call them by a name which Signifies the big beaver. My companion, who was a trader in Talahafochte laft winter, law three of them at one time in this fpring: they feed chiefly on aquatic grafs and weeds. The ground round about the head of the bafon is generally level, for the diltance of a few yards; then gradually afcends, forming moderately high hills: the foil at top is a light, grayifh, Sandy mould, which continues fome feet in depth, lying on a ftratum of yellowifh clay, then clay and gravel, then fand, and fo on, ftratum upon ftratum, down to the general foundation of teflaceous rocks. In other places a deep ftratum of whitifh, chalky lime ftone. The vegetable productions which cover and ornament thofe eminences, are generally Live Oaks, Magnolia grandiflora, in the Creek tongue, 'Tolo-chlucco, which Signifies the Big Bay, Laurus Borbonia or Red Bay, in the Creek tongue, Eto-mico, that is King's tree, Olea Americana and Liquidambar, with other trees, ihrubs, and herbaceous plants common in Eaft Florida.
The hills and groves environing this admirable fountain, affording amufing Subjects of inquiry, oc-cafioned my flay here a great part of the day j and towards evening we returned to the town.
Next day, early in the morning, we crolfed the river, landing on the other ihore oppofite the town, Swimming our horfes by the fide of the canoe, each of us holding his horfe by the bridle whilft an Indian paddled us over. After crofling, we ftruck off from the river into the forefts, fometimes falling into, and keeping for a time, the ancient Spaniih high road to Penfacola, now almoft obliterated: we palled four or five miles through old Spaniih fields.
4 There
There are to be feen plain marks or velTiges of 'the old Spanifli plantations and dwellings; as fence pofls and wooden pillars of their houfes, ditches, and even corn ridges and Batata hills. From the Indian accounts, the Spaniards had here a rich well cultivated and populous fetdement, and a ftrong fortified polt, as they likewife had at the favanna and fields of Capolaj but either of them far inferior to one they had fome miles farther fouth-wctt towards the Apalachuchla River, now called the Apalachean Old Fields, where yet remain vaft works and buildings, as fortifications, temples, fome brafs cannon, mortars, heavy church bells, cic.
The fame groups of whitifh teflaceous rocks and circular finks, with natural wells, make their appearance in thefe groves and fields, as obferved on the fide of the river oppofite to Capola j and the lame trees, fhrubs, and herbage without variation. Having paffed five or fix miles through thefe ancient fields and groves, the fcene fuddenly changes, after riding through a high foreft of Oak, Magnolia, Fraxinus, Liquidambar, Fagus fylvatica, &c.
Now at once opens to view, perhaps, the mod extenfive Cane-break * that is to be feen on the face of the whole earth; right forward, about fouth-wefl, there appears no bound but the ikies, the level plain, like the ocean, uniting with the firmament, and on the right and left hand, dark fliaded groves, old fields, and high forefts, fuch as we had lately paffed through.
The alternate bold promontories and mifty points advancing and retiring, at length, as it were, infenfi-
* Cane meadows, fo called by ;hc inhabitants of Carolina, fcc
QL4 bly
\
bly vanifhing from fight, like the two points of a crefcent, fottly touching the horizon, reprefent the moll magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps in the whole world. The ground defcends gently from the groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forming a delightful green graffy lawn.   The Canes are ten or twelve feet in height, and as thick as an ordinary walking flaflf; they grow fo clofe together, there is no penetrating them without previoufly cutting a road.   We came up to this vaft plain where the ancient Spaniih highway croffes it to Penfacola: there yet remain plain veftiges of the grand caufe-way, which is open like a magnificent avenue, and the Indians have a bad road or pathway on it. The ground or foil of the plain is a perfectly black, rich, foapy earth, like a ftiff clay or marie, wet and boggy near the fhore, but, further in, firm and hard enough in the fummer feafon, but wet and in fome places under water during the winter.
This vaft plain, together with the forefts contiguous to it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who are fovereigns of thefe realms) to be in pofieffion and under the culture of induftrious planters and mechanics, would in a little time exhibit other fcenes than it does at prefent, delightful as it is; for by the arts of agriculture and commerce, almoft every defirable thing in life might be produced and made plentiful here, and thereby eftablifh a rich, populous, and delightful region; as this foil and climate appears to be of a nature favourable for the production of almoft all the fruits of the earth, as Corn *, Rice, Indigo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Cochineal, and all the varieties of efculent vegetables; and I fuppofe no part of the earth affords fuch end-
lefs range and exuberant pafture for cattle, deer, fheep, &c: the waters every where, even in the holes in the earth, abound with varieties of excellent fifh; and the forefts and native meadows with wild game, as bear, cjeer, turkeys, quail, and in the winter feafon geefe, ducks, and other fowl: and lying contiguous to one of the mpft beautiful navigable rivers in the world, and not more than thirty miles from St. Mark's on the great bay of Mexico, is moft conveniently Situated for the Weft India trade and the commerce of all the world.
After indulging ray imagination in the contemplation of thefe grand diverfitied fcenes, we turned to the right harfd, riding over the charming green terrace dividing the forefts from the plains, and then entering the groves again, continued eight or nine miles up the river, four or fiye miles diftance from its banks; having continually in view, on one fide or other, expanfive green fields, groves, and high forefts; the meadows glittering with diftant lakes and ponds, alive with cattle, deer, and turkeys, and frequently prefenting to view remains of ancient Spaniih plantations.   At length, towards evening, we turned about and came within fight of the river, where falling on the Indian trading path, we continued along it to the landing-place oppofite the town; when hallooing and difcharging our pieces, an Indian with a canoe came prcfently over, and conducted us to the town before dark.
On our arrival at the trading houfe, our chief was vifited by the head men of the town, when inftantly the White King's arrival in town was announced: a meffenger had before been fent in to prepare a feaft, the king and his retinue having killed feveral bears.   A fire was now kindled in the
area
area of the public fquare; the royal Standard wa.? difplayed, and the drum beat to give notice to the town of the royal feaft.
The ribs and the choice pieces of the three great fat bears already well barbecued or broiled, were brought to the banquetting houfe in the fquare, with hot bread; and honeyed water for drink.
When the fealt was over in the fquare (where only the chiefs and warriors were admitted, with the white people), the chief prieft, attended by flaves, came with balkets and carried off the remainder of the victuals, &c. which was distributed amongft the families of the town. The king then withdrew, repairing to the council houfe in the fquare, whither the chiefs and warriors, old and young, and fuch of the whites as chofe, repaired alfo; the king, war chief, and feveral ancient chiefs and warriors were feated on the royal cabins; the reft of the head men and warriors, old and young, fit on the cabins on the right hand of tlie king's: the cabins or feats on the left, and on the fame elevation, are always affigned for the white people, Indians of other towns, and fuch of their own people as choofe.
Our chief, with the reft of the white people in town, took their feats according to order: tobacco and pipes were brought; the calumet was lighted and fmoaked, circulating according to the ufual forms and ceremony; and afterwards black drink conclude the fealt. The king converfed, drank caf-ftne, and' affociated familiarly with his people and with us.
After the public entertainment was over, the young people began their mufic and dancing in the
fquare.
»
fquare, whither the young of both fexes repaired, as well as the old and middle aged: this frolick continued all night.
The White King of Talahafochte is a middle aged man, of moderate itature; and though of a lofty and majellic countenance and deportment, yet I am convinced this dignity, which really feems graceful, is not the effect, of vain fupercilious pride, for his fmilT ing countenance and his cheerful familiarity beipeak magnanimity and benignity.
Next a council and treaty was held. They re-quelled to have a trading houfe again eftablifhed in the town, alfuring us that every poffible means fliould constantly be purfued to prevent any disturbance in future on their part; they informed us that the murderers of M'Gee * and his aifociates were to be put to death, that two of them were already Shot, and riiey were in purfuit of the other.
Our chief trader in anfwer informed them, that the re-cftabliihment of friendihip and trade was the chief object of his vilit, and that he was happy to find his old friends of Talahafochte in the fame good difpolition, as they ever were towards him and the white people; that it was his wilh to trade with them, and that he was now come to collect his pack-horfes to bring them goods. The king and the chiefs having been already acquainted with my bufinefs and purfuits amongft them, received me very kindly; the king in particular complimented me,
* M'Gcc wns the leader of a family of white people from Georgia deftmed anr.fs the iflhmus, to the Mobile rivci : they travelled on horfe-back as far as this town, where they procured canoes of the Indians, continuing their tiavels, deur.idit ig the liver and coafting the main S. W.; but at ni;;ht, when on fhoie hunting proviiions, their camp was lurprifcd and attacked by a predatory band of Indians, who flew M'Gee and the rcfl of the men, and carried off the plunder and u woman to their towns.
faying
faying tliat I was as one of his own children or people, and fliould be protected accordingly, while I remained with them, adding, " Our whole country is before you, where you may range about at pleafure, gather phyfic plants and flowers, and every other production;" thus the treaty terminated friend-lily and peaceably.
Next day early in the morning we left the town and the river, in order to fix our encampment in the forefts about twelve miles from the river; our companions with the pack-horfes went a head to the place of rendezvous, and our chief conducted me another way to (how me a very curious place, called the Alligator-Hole, which was lately formed by an extraordinary eruption or jet of water.   It is one of thofe vaft circular finks, which we beheld almoft every where about us as we traverfed thefe forefts, after we left the Alachua favanna. This remarkable one is on the verge of a fpacious meadow, the furface of the ground round about uneven by means of gentle riling knolls: fome detached groups of rocks and large fpreading live oaks fhade it on every fide: it is about fixty yards over, and the furface of the water fix or feven feet below the rim of the funnel or bafon: the water is tranfparent, cool, and pleafant to drink, and well ftored with fifti; a very large alligator at prefent is lord or chief; many have been killed here, but the throne is never long vacant, the vaft neighbouring ponds fo abound with them.
The account that this gentleman, who was an eye-witnefs of the laft eruption, gave me of its firft appearance, being very wonderful, I proceed to relate what he told me whilft we were in town, which was confirmed by the Indians, and one or more of
out
our companions, who alfo faw its progrefs, as well as by my own obfervations after I came to the ground*
This trader being near the place (before it had any viable exiftence in its prefent appearance), about three years ago, as he was looking for fome horfes which he expected to find in thefe parts, on a hidden was aftoniflied by an inexprelfible ruining noife, like a mighty hurricane or thunder ftorm; and looking round, he faw the earth overflowed by torrents of water, which came, wave after wave, ruihing down a vale or plain very near him, which it filled with water, and foon began to overwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a terrific noife and tremor of the earth. Recovering from his firft furprife, he immediately refolved to proceed for the place from whence the noife feemed to come; and foon came in fight of the incomparable fountain, and faw, with amazement, the floods ruihing upwards many feet high, and the expanding waters, which prevailed every way, fpreading themfelves far and near. He at length concluded (he faid) that the fountains of the deep were again broken up, and that an univerfal deluge had commenced; and inftantly turned about and fled ro alarm the town, about nine miles diftance: but before he could reach it, he met feveral of the inhabitants, who, already alarmed by the unufual noife, were hurrying on towards the place; upon which he returned with the Indians, taking their Stand on an eminence to watch its progrefs and the event.   It continued to jet and flow in this manner for feveral days, forming a large, rapid creek or river, defcending and following the various courfes and windings of the valley, for the diftance of feven or eight miles, emptying itfelf into a vaft favanna, 6 where
2j8 travels in
where was a lake and link which received and gave vent to its waters.
The fountain, however, gradually ceafed to overflow, and finally withdrew itfelf beneath the common furface of the earth, leaving this capacious bafon of waters, which, though continually near full? hath never Xince overflowed. There yet remains, and will, I fuppofe, remain for ages, the dry bed of the river or canal, generally four, five, and fix feet below the natural furface of the land} the perpendicular, ragged banks of which, on each fide, fhow the different Strata of the earth; and at places, where ridges or a Swelling bank crofTed and oppofed its courSe and fury, are vail: heaps of fragments of rocks, white chalk, Stones, and pebbles, which were collected and thrown into the lateral vallies, until the main Stream prevailed over and forced them afide, overflowing the levels and meadows, for fome miles diftance from the principal ftream, on either fide. We continued down the great vale, along its banks, quite to the favanna and lake where it vented itfelf, while its ancient fubterranean channel was gradually opening, which, I imagine, from fome hidden event or caule had been choaked up, and which, we may fuppofe, was the immediate caufe of the eruption.
In the evening, having gained our encampment, on a graffy knoll or eminence, under the cover of fpreading oaks, juft by the grotto or fink of the lake, which lay as a fparkling gem on the flowery bo-fom of the ample favanna; our roving affociates foon came in from the ranging forefts. We continued our encampment at this place for feveral days* ranging around the delightful country to a great diftance,
tance, every day's excurfion prefenting new fcenes of wonder and delight.
Early in the morning our chief invited me with him on a viik to the town, to take a final leave of the White King. We were gracioufly received and treated with the utmoft civility and hofpita-lity: there was a noble entertainment and repaft provided againft our arrival, confifting of bears ribs, venifon, varieties of fiih, roafted turkies (which they call the white man's difh), hot corn cakes, and a very agreeable, cooling fort cf jelly, which they call conte: this is prepared from the root of the China briar (Smilax pfcudo-China; Smilax afpera, frufbu nigra, radice nodofa, magna, laevi, farinacea; Sloan, torn. i. p. 31. t, 14?. f. 1. habit. Jamaica, Virginia, Carolina, and Florida): they chop the roots in pieces, which are afterwards well pounded in a wTooden mortar, then being mixed with clean water, in a tray or trough, they ftrain it through -bankets; the fediment, which fettles to the bottom of the fecond veffel, is afterwards dried in the open air, and is then a very fine reddifti flour or meal: a fmall quantity of this mixed with warm water and fweetened with honey, when cool, becomes a beautiful, delicious jelly, very nourifhing and wholefome. They alfo mix it with fine corn flour, which being fried in frefh bear's oil makes very good hot cakes or fritters.
On our taking leave of the king and head men, they entreated our chief to reprefent to the white people, their unfeigned defire to bury in oblivion the late breach of amity and intermiflion of commerce, which they trufted would never be reflected on the people of Talahafochte; and, laftly, that we
would
would fpecdily return with merchandize as heretofore; all which was cheerfully confented to, affuring them their willies and fentiments fully coincided with our<-.
The chief trader, intending to mow me fome remarkable barren plains, on our return to our encampment, about noon we fat off: when we came within fight of them, I was ftruck with aftonilh-ment at their dreary appearance; the view Southerly feemed endlefs waftes, prefenting rocky, gravelly and fandy barren plains, producing fcarcely any vegetable fubftances, except a few lhrubby crooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of white rocks, which reprefented ruins of villages, planted over the plains; with clumps of mean fhrubs, which lerved only to perpetuate the perfecuting power and rage of fire, and to teftify the aridity of the foil. The fhrubs I obferved were chiefly the following; Myrica cerifera, two or three varieties, one of which is very dwarfifh, the leaves fmall, yet toothed or finuated, of a yellowifh green colour, owing to a farinaceous pubefcence or veficula which covers their furfaces; Prinos, varieties, Andromeda ferruginea, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus fran-gula, Sideroxylon fericium, Ilex aquifolium, Ilex myrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Cafline, and a great variery of fhrub Oaks, evergreen and deciduous, fome of them fingularly beautiful; Corypha repens; with a great variety of herbage, particularly Cacalia, Prenanthus, Chryfocoma, Heli-anthus, Silphium, Lobelia, Globularia, Helenium, Polygala, varieties, Clinopodium, Cactus, various fpecies, Euphorbia, various fpecies, Afclepias car-nofa, very beautiful and fingular, Sophora, Dian-thus, Ciftus, Sifymbrium, Pedicularis, Gerardia,
Lcchca,
Lechea, Gnaphalium, Smilax farfiparilla, Smilax pumila, Solidago, After, Lupinus filifolius, Galega, Hedyfarum, &c. with various fpecies of grades. But there appeared vaft fpaces of gravel and plains of flat rocks, juft even with the furface of the earth, which feemed entirely deftitute of any vegetation, unlefswe may except fome different kinds of moffes of the cruftaceous forts, as lichen, alga, &c. and coralloides. After parting feveral miles on the borders of thefe deferts, frequently alighting on them for obfervation and making collections, they at length gradually united or joined with infinite favannas and ponds, ftretching beyond the fight Southerly, parallel with the rocky barrens; being Separated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge of open groves, confifting of low, fpreading Live Oaks, Zanthoxylon, Ilex, Sideroxylon, &c.; and here and there, (landing cither in groups or alone, the pompous Palm tree, glorioufly erect or gracefully bowing towards the earth; exhibiting a moft pleafing contrail and wild Indian fcene of primitive unmodified nature, ample and magnificent. We at length came abreaft of the expanfive, glittering lake, which'divided the ample meadows, one end of which ftretching towards a verdant eminence, formed a little bay, which was partly encircled by groups of white chalky rocks, ftiaded with Live Oaks, Bays, Zanthoxylon and Palm trees. We turned our horfes to graze in the green lawns, whilft we tra -verfed the groves and meadows. Here the palmated Convolvulus trailed over the rocks, with the Hedera carnofa (fob quinatis incifo-ferratis, perennen-tibus), and the fantaflic Clitoria, decorating the fhrubs with garlands (Clit. caule volubili fol. terna-tis pennatifque, flor. majore caeruleo, vexillo rotun-diore, filiquis longiflimis compreftis).
R Soon
Soon after entering the forefts, we were met in the path by a fmall company of Indians, fmiling and beckoning to us long before we joined them. This was a family of Talahafochte who had been out on a hunt, and were returning home loaded with barbecued meat, hides and honey. Their company confuted of the man, his wife and children, Well mounted on fine horfes, with a number of pack-horfes. The man prefently offered us a fawn-fkin of honey, which we gladly accepted, and at parting I presented him with fome fifh hooks, few-ing needles, &cctj for in my travels amongft the Indians, I always furnifhed myfelf with fuch ufeful and acceptable little articles of light carriage, for prefents. We parted, and before night rejoined our companion at the Long Pond.
On our return to camp in the evening, we were faluted by a party of young Indian warriors, who had pitched their camp on a green eminence near the lake, and at a fmall diftance from our camp, under a little grove of Oaks and Palms. This company confifted of feven young Siminoles, under the conduct: of a young prince or chief of Talahafochte, a town Southward in the ifthmUs. They were all drefted and painted with fingular elegance, and richly ornamented with filver plates, chains, &c. after the Slminole mode, with waving plumes of feathers on their crefts. On our coming up to them, they arofe and ftiook hands; we alighted and 'fat a while with them by their cheerful fire.
The young prince informed our chief that he was in purfuit of a young fellow, who had fled from the town, carrying off with him one of his favourite young wives or concubines. He faid merrily he would have the ears of both of them before
he
he returned. He was rather above the middle ita-ture, and the moft perfect human figure I ever faw; of an amiable engaging countenance, air and deportment ; free and familiar in converfation, yet retaining a becoming gracerulriefs and dignity. We arofe, took leave of them, and croffed a little vale covered with a charming green turf, already illuminated by the foft light of the full moon.
Soon after joining our companions at camp, our neighbours, the prince and his alfociates, paid us a vifit. We treated them with the beft fare we had, having till this time preferved fome of our fpirituous liquors. They left us with perfect cordiality and cheerfulnefs, wifhing us a good repofe, and retired to their own camp. Having a band of mulic with them, confifting of a drum, flutes, and a rattle gourd, they entertained us during the night with their muftc, vocal and inftrumental.
There is a languiftiing foftnefs and melancholy air in the Indian convivial fongs, efpecially of the amorous clafs, irreftftibly moving, attractive, and exquifitely pleafing, efpecially in thefe folitary re-ceftes, when all nature is filent.
Behold how gracious and beneficent fhines the rofeate morn ! Now the fun arifes and fills the plains with light; his glories appear on the forefts, encom-pafting the meadows, and gild the top of the tere-binthine Pine and exalted Palms, now gently ruf-tling by the prefture of the waking breezes: the muftc of the feraphic cranes refounds in the ikies; in feparate iquadrons they fail, encircling their precincts, flowly defcend beating the denfe air, and slight on the green dewy verge of the expanfive take; its furface yet fmoking with the gray af«
R 1 cending
cending milts, which, condenfed aloft in clouds of vapour, are born away by the morning breezes, and at laft gradually vanifti on the diftant horizon. All nature awakes to life and activity.
The ground, during our progrefs this morning, every where about us prefented to view thofe funnels, finks and wells in groups of rocks, amidft the groves, as already recited.
Near our next encampment, one more confpicuous than I had elfewhere obferved prefenttng itfelf, I took occafion from this favourable circumftance of obferving them in all their variety of appearances. Its outer fuperficial margin was fifty or fixty yards over, which equally and uniformly on every fide floped downwards towards the center: on one fide of it was a confiderable path-way or road leading down to the water, worn by the frequent refort of wild creatures for drink, when the waters were fifen even or above the rocky bed, but at this time they were funk many yards below the furface of the earth.   We defcended firft to the bed of rocks, which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, exactly like a walled well, four, five, or fix feet in diameter, and may be compared to cells in an honeycomb, through which appeared the water at bottom: many of thefe were broken or worn one into another, forming one vaft well with uneven walls, confifting of projecting jams, pilaftres, or buttreffes, and excavated femicircular niches,  as if a piece were taken out of a honey-comb: the bed of rocks is from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thicknefs, chough not of one folk! mafs, but of many, generally horizontal, lamina*, or ftrata, of various thick-jiefs, from eighteen inches to two or three feet; which admit water to weep through, trickling down,
drop
drop after drop, or chafing each other in winding little rills down to the bottom. One fide of the vaft cool grotto was fo (battered and broken in, I thought it poflible to defcend down to the water at bottom; and my companion alfuring me that the Indians and traders frequently go down for drink, encouraged me to make the attempt, as he agreed to accompany me.
Having provided ourfelves with a long fnagged fapling, called an Indian ladder, and each of us a pole, by the afTiftance of thefe we both defcended fafely to the bottom, which we found nearly level and not quite covered over with water; on one fide was a bed of gravel and fragments of rocks or (tones, and on the other a pool of water near two feet deep, which moved with a (low current under the walls on a bed of clay and gravel.
After our return to the furface of the earth, I again ranged about the groves and grottos, examining a multitude of them. Being on the margin of one in the open foreft, and obferving fome curious vegetable productions growing on the fide of the doping funnel towards its center, the furface of the ground covered with grafs and herbage; unappre-henfive of danger, I defcended precipitately towards the group of fhrubs; when I was furprifed and providentially (topped in my career, at the ground founding hollow under my feet; and obferving chafms through the ground, I quickly drew back, and returning again with a pole with which I beat in the earth, to my aftoniihment and dread appeared the mouth of a well through the rocks, and I obferved the water glimmering at the bottom. Being wearied with excurfions, we returned to out pleafant fituation on the verge of the lawn,
H 3 Next
Next day we fet off on our return to the lower trading-houfe, propofing to encamp at a favanna, about twelve miles diftance from this, where we were to halt again and ftay a day or two, in order to collect together another party of horfes, which had been ftationed about that range. The young wild horfes often breaking from the company, rendered our progrefs flow and troublefome; we however arrived at the appointed place long before night.
I had an opportunity this day of collecting a var-riety of fpecimens and feeds of vegetables, fome of which appeared new to me, particularly Sophora, Ciftus, Tradefcantia, Hypoxis, Iatropa, Gerardia, Pedicularis, Mimofa fenfitiva, Helonias, Melan-thium, Lilium, Aletris, Agave, Cactus, Zamia, Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c.
Next day, the people being again engaged in their bufinefs of ranging the forefts and plains, in fearch of their horfes, I accompanied them, and in our rambles we again viftted the great favanna and lake, called the Long Pond: the lake is nearly in the middle of the fpacious lawn, of an oblong form; above two miles wide and feven in length; one end approaching the high green banks adjoining the forefts, where there is an enchanting grove and grotto of pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes of fifh, continually afcending and defcending through the clean, white rocks, Hoping from the green verged ihore, by gradual fteps, from fmooth, flat pavements waihed by the Swelling undulations of the waters.
Arrived in the evening at camp, where we found the reft of our companions bufily employed in fe-
curing
curing the young freakflh horfes.   The next day was employed in like manner, breaking and tutoring the young fteeds to their duty.   The day following we took a final leave of this land of meadows, lakes, groves and grottos, directing our courfe for the trading path.   Having traverfed a country, in appearance, little differing from the region lying upon Little St. Juan, we gained about twelve miles on our way; and in the evening encamped on a narrow ridge, dividing two favannas from each other, near the edge of a deep pond; here our people made a large pen or pound to fecurp their wild horfes during the night.   There was a little hom-mock or iflet containing a few acres of high ground, at fome diftance from the iTiore, in the drowned favanna, almoft every tree of which was loaded with nefts of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba, ar. Violacea,  ar. cerulea, ar. ftellaris criflata, ar. ftellaris maxima, ar. virefcens, colymbus, tantalus, mergus and others j thefe nefts were all alive with young, generally almoft full grown, not yet fledged, but covered with whitifh or cream coloured foft down.   We vifited this bird ifle, and fome of our people taking flicks or poles with them, foon beat down, and loaded themfelves with thefe fquabs, and returned to camp; they were almoft a lump of fat, and made us a rich fupper; fome we roafted, and made others into a pilloe with rice: moft of them, except the bitterns and tantali, were fo ex-ceffively fifhy in tafte and fmell, I could not relifh them.   It is incredible what prodigious numbers there were, old and young, on this little iflet, and the confufed noife which they kept up continually, the young crying for food inceflantly, even whilft in their throats, and the old alarmed and difpleafed at our near reftdence, and the depredations we had
R 4 made
made upon them; their various languages, cries, and fluttering caufed an incxpreftible uproar, like a public fair or market in a populous trading city, when fuddenly furprifed by fome unexpected calamitous event.
About midnight, having fallen afleep, I was awakened and greatly furprifed at finding moft of my companions up in arms, and furioufly engaged with a large alligator but a few yards from me. One of our company, it feems, awoke in the night, and perceived the monfter within a few paces of the camp, when giving the alarm to the reft, they readily came to his affiftance, for it was a rare piece of fport. Some took lire-brands and eaft them at his head, whilft others formed javelins of faplins, pointed and hardened with fire; thefe they thruft down his throat into his bowels, which caufed the monfter to roar and bellow hideoufly; but his ftrength and fury were fo great, that he eafily wrenched or twifted them out of their hands, and wielding and brandifhing them about, kept his enemies at a diftance for a time. Some were for putting an end to his life and fufferings with a rifle ball, but the majority thought this would too foon deprive them of the diverfton and pleafure of ex-ercifing their various inventions of torture: they at length however grew tired, and agreed in one opinion, that he had fuffered fufficiently; and put an end to his exiftence. This crocodile was about twelve feet in length: we fuppofed that he had been allured by the nftry fcent of our birds, and encouraged to undertake and purfue this hazardous adventure which coft him his life. This, with other inftances already recited, may be fufficient to j^rove the intrepidity and fubtilty of thofe voracious, formidable animals.
We
We fat off early next morning, and foon after falling into the trading path, accomplished about twenty miles of our journey; and in the evening encamped as ufual, near the banks of favannas and ponds, for the benefit of water and accommodations of paflure for our creatures. Next day we palled over part of the great and beautiful Alachua Savanna, whofe exuberant green meadows, with the fertile hills which immediately encircle it, would, if peopled and cultivated after the manner of the civilized countries of Europe, without crowding or incommoding families, at a moderate eflimation, accommodate in the happieft manner above one hundred thoufand human inhabitants, befides millions of domeftic animals; and I make no doubt this place will at fome future day be one of the moft populous and delightful feats on earth.
We came to camp in the evening, on the banks of a creek but a few miles diftance from Cufcowilla; and two days more moderate travelling brought us fafe back again to the lower trading-houfe, on St. Juan, having been blefled with health and a profperous journey.
On my arrival at the ftores, I was happy to find all well as we had left them; and our bringing with us friendly talks from the Siminole towns, and the Nation likewife, completed the hopes and wifhes of the trading company, with refpect to their commercial concerns with the Indians, which, ?.s the cheering light of the fun-beams after a dark tem-peftuous night, diffufed joy and conviviality throughout the little community, where were a number of men with their families, who had been put out of employment and fubfiftence, anxioufly waiting the happy event.
chap.
CHAP. VIII.
As a loading could not be procured until late in the autumn, for the fchooner that was to return to Georgia, this circumftance allowed me time and opportunity to continue my excurftons in this land of flowers, as well as at the fame time to augment my collections of feeds, growing roots, &c.
I refolved upon another little voyage up the river; and after refting a few days and refitting my bark, I got on board the neceflary itores, and fur-nilhing myfelf with boxes to plant roots in, with my ruzee, ammunition and fifhing tackle, I let fail, and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Next morning, being moderately calm and ferene, I fet fail with a gentle leading breeze, which delightfully wafted me acrofs the lake to the weft coaft\ landing on an airy, fandy beach, a pleafant, cool fituation, where I paffed the night, but not without frequent attacks from the mufquitoes ; and next day vifited the Great Springs, where I remained until the fucceeding day, increaflng my collections of fpe-cimens, feeds and roots; and then reerofted the lake to the eaftern fhore. This fhore is generally bolder and more rocky than the weftern, it being expofed to the lafh of the furf, occafioned by the W. and N. W. winds, which are bride, and conftant from nine or ten o'clock in the morning till towards midnight, almoft the year round; though the S. winds are confiderable in the fpring, and by fhort intervals during the fummer and winter; and the N. E. though fometimes very violent in the fpring and
autumn,
autumn, does not continue long. The day was employed in coafting flowly, and making collections. In the evening I made a harbour under cover of a long point of flat rocks, which defended the mole from the furf. Having fafely moored my bark, and chpfen my camping ground juft by, during the fine evening I reconnoitred the adjacent groves and lawns. Here is a deferted plantation, the property of Dr. Stork, where he once refided. I obferved many lovely fhrubs and plants in the old fields and Orange groves, particularly feveral fpecies of Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former having very large, white, fweet fcented flowers: they are great ramblers, climbing and ftrolling on the fhrubs and hedges. Next morning I re-embarked, and continued traverfing the bold coaft north-eaftward, and fearching the fhores at all convenient landings, where I was amply rewarded for my aftiduity in the fociety of beauties in the blooming realms of Florida. Came to again, at an old deferted plantation, the property of a Britifh gentleman, but fome years fince vacated. A very fpacious frame building was fettling to the ground and mouldering to earth. Flere are very extenfive old fields, where were growing the Weft-Indian or perennial Cotton and Indigo, which had been cultivated here, and fome fcattered remains of the ancient orange groves, which had been left Handing at the clearing of the plantation.
I have often been affected with extreme regret, at beholding the deftruction and devaftation which has been committed or indifcreetly exercifed on thofe extenfive fruitful Orange groves, on the banks of St. Juan, by the new planters under the Britifh government, fome hundred acres of which, at a
3 fingle
{ingle plantation, have been entirely deftroyed, to make room for the indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas, &c. or, as they fay, to extirpate the mufquitoes, al-ledging that groves near the dwellings are haunts and (helters for thofe perfecuting infects. Some plantations have not a fingle tree Handing; and where any have been left, it is only a fmall coppice or clump, nakedly expofed and deftitute; perhaps fifty or an hundred trees ftanding near the dwelling-houle, having no lofty cool grove of expanfive Live Oaks, Laurel Magnolias, and Palms, to lhade and protect them, exhibiting a mournful, fallow countenance; their native perfectly formed and gloiTy green foliage as if violated, defaced and torn to pieces by the bleak winds, fcorched by the burning fun-beams in fummer, and chilled by the winter frofls.
In the evening I took up my quarters in the beautiful ifle in fight of Mount Royal. Next day, after collecting what was new and worthy of particular notice, I fet fail again, and called by the way at Mount Royal. In the evening arrived fafe at the flores, bringing along with me valuable collections,
CHAP.
CHAP. IX,
At the trading-houfe I found a very large party of the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, juft without: the pallifadoes. This was a predatory band of the Siminoles, confifting of about forty warriors deftined againft the Chactaws of Weft Florida. They had juft arrived here from St. Auguftine, where they had been with a large troop of horfes for fale, and furnifhed thernfelves with a very liberal fupply of fpirituous liquors, about twenty kegs, each containing five gallons.
Thefe fons of Mars had the continence and fortitude to withftand the temptation of even tailing a drop of it until their arrival here, where they purpofed to fupply themfelves with neceftary articles to equip them for the expedition, and proceed on directly; but here meeting with our young traders and pack-horfe men, they were foon prevailed on to broacli their beloved nectar; which in the end caufed fome disturbance, and the confump-tion of moft of their liquor; for after they had once got a fmack of it, they never were fober for ten days, and by that time there was but little left.
In a few days this festival exhibited one of die moft ludicrous bacchanalian fcenes that is poftible to be conceived. White and red men and women without diftinction, paffed the day merrily with thefe jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in convivial fongs, dances, and facrifices to Venus, as long as they could Stand or move; for in thefe frolicks both fcxes take fuch liberties with each other, and 8 act,
act, without conftraint or iriamc, fuch fcenes as they would abhor when fober or in their fenfes; and would endanger their ears and even their lives: but at laft their liquor running low, and being moft of them fick through intoxication, they became more fober; and now the dejected life'lels fots would pawn every thing they were in pof-feftion of, for a mouthful of fpirits to fettle their ftomachs, as they termed it. This was the time for the wenches to make their market, as they had the fortitude and fubtilty by diflimulation and artifice to fave their lhare of the liquor during the frolick, and that by a very fingular ftratagem; for, at thefe riots, eveiy fellow who joins in the club, has his own ouart bottle of rum in his hand, holding it by the neck fo fure, that lie never loofes hold of it day or night, drunk or fober, as long as the frolick continues; and with this, his beloved friend, he roves about continually, ringing, roaring, and reeling to and fro, either alone, or arm in arm with a brother toper, prefenting his bottle to every one, offering a drink; and is fure to meet his beloved female if he can, whom he complaifantly begs to drink with him. But the modeft fair, veiling her face in a mantle, refufes, at the beginning of the frolick; but he prelfes and at laft infifts. She being fiirnifhed with an empty bottle, concealed in her mantle, at laft confents, and taking a good long draught, blulhes, drops her pretty face on her bo-fom, and artfully difcharges the rum into her bottle, and by repeating this artifice foon fills it: this fhe privately conveys to her fecret ftore, and then returns to the jovial game, and fo on during the feftival; and when the comic farce is over, the wench retails this precious cordial to them at her own price.
There
There were a few of the chiefs, particularly the Long Warrior their leader, who had the prudence and fortitude to refill: the alluring temptation during the whole farce ; but though he was a powerful chief, a king, and a very cunning man, he was not able to controul thefe madmen, although he was acknowledged by the Indians to have communion with powerful invifible beings or fpirits, and on that account efteemed worthy of homage and great refpect.
After the Indians became fober, they began to prepare for their departure. In the morning early the Long Warrior and chiefs fent a meffenger to Mr. M'Latche, defiring to have a talk with him upon matters of moment: accordingly, about noon they arrived. The conference was held in the piazza of the council houfe: the Long Warrior and chiefs who attended him, took their feats upon a long bench adjoining the fide or front of the houfe, reaching the whole length of it, on one hand; and the principal white traders on the other, all on the fame feat. I was admitted at this conference; Mr, M'Latche and the Long Warrior fat next to each other; my late companion, the old trader, and myfelf fat next to him.
The Long Warrior fpake, faying, that he and his companions were going to fight their enemies the Chactaws; and that fome of his aflbciates being in want of blankets, ihirts, and fome other articles, they declined fupplying themfelves with them at St. Auguftine, becaufe they had rather Hick clofe to their old friend Mr. Spalding, and bring their buckfkins, furs, and other produce of their country (which they knew were acceptable) to
his
his trading houfe, to purchafe what they wanted. But not having the (kins, &c. with them to pay for fuch things as they had occafion for, they doubted not, but that on their return, they fhould bring with them fufficient not only to pay their debts, about to be contracted, but be able to make other confiderable purchafes, as the principal ob]ect of this expedition was hunting on the plentiful 'borders of the Chactaws. Mr. M'Latche hefitating, and expreffing fome diffatisfaction at his requeft; particularly at the length of time and great uncertainty of obtaining pay for the goods; and moreover his being only an agent for Meflrs. Spalding and Co. and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of the Long Warrior's demands; required the company's affent and directions before he could comply with their requeft.
This anfwer difpleafed the Indian chie£ and I obferved great agitation and tumult in his paffions, from his actions, hurry and rapidity of fpeech and exprefTion. The old interpreter who fat by afked me if I fully underftood the debate; I anfwered that I apprehended the Long Warrior was difpleafed; he told me he was fo, and then recapitulated what had been faid reflecting his queltions and Mr, MfLatche's anfwer; adding, that upon his hefitation he immediately replied, in fceming difgult and great expreffions of anger, " Do you prefume to refufe me credit; certainly you know who I am and what power I have: but perhaps you do not know, that if the matter required it, and I pleafed, I could command and caufe the terrible thunder * now rolling in the fkies above, to defcend
* It thundered, lightened, and rained in a violent manner during thefe debates.
upon
upon your head, in rapid fiery iliafts, and lay you proffrate at my feet, and confume your ftorcs, turning them inftantly into duft and allies/' Mr. McLatche calmly replied, that he was fully fenfi-ble that the Long Warrior was a great man, a powerful chief of the bands of the refpectable Siminoles, that his name was terrible to his enemies, but ftill he doubted if any man upon earth • had fuch power, but rather believed that thunder and lightning was under the direction of the Great Spirit; but however, fince we are not difpofed to deny your power, lupernatural influence and inter-courfe with the elements and Spiritual agents, or withhold the refpect and homage due to fo great a prince of the Siminoles, friends and allies to the white people ; if you think fit now in the prefence of us all here, command and caufe yon terrible thunder with its rapid fiery (hafts, to defcend upon the top of that Live Oak* in front of us, rend it in pieces, fcatter his brawny limbs on the earth and confume them to afhes before our eyes, we will then own your fupernatural power and dread your difpleafure.
After fome filence the prince became more calm and eafy, and returned for anfwer, that recollecting the former friendihip and good underftanding, which had ever fubfifted betwixt the white people and red people of the Siminole bands, and in particular, the many acts of friendihip and kindncls received from Mr. M'Latche, he would overlook this affront; he acknowledged his reafoning and expoftulatioris to be juft and manly, that he ihouid fuppiefs his refentment, and withhold his power and vengeance at prefent. Mr. M'Latche concluded by faying, that he was not
* A large ancient Live Oak flood in the yard about fifiv yards diftance. '
S ill
in the leaft intimidated by his threats of destroying him with thunder and lightning, neither was he difpofed in any manner to difpleafe the Siminoles, and fhould certainly comply with his requisitions, as far as lie could proceed without the advice and directions of the company ; and finally agreed to fupply him and his followers with fuch things as they Stood moft in need of, fuch as ihirts, blankets and fome paints, one half to be paid for directly, and the remainder to ftand on credit until their return from the expedition.   This determination entirely Satisfied the Indians.   We broke up the conference in perfect amity and good humour, and they returned to their camp, and in the evening, ratified it with feafting and dancing, which continued all next day with tolerable decorum.   An occurrence happened this day, by which I had an opportunity of obferving their extraordinary veneration or dread of the rattle fnake.  I was in the forenoon bufy in my apartment in the council-houfe, drawing fome curious flowers; when, on a hidden, my attention was taken off by a tumult without, at the Indian camp. I ftepped to the door opening to the piazza, where I met my friend the old interpreter, who informed me that there was a very large rattle fnake in the Indian camp, which had taken poffefiion of it, having driven the men, women and children out, and he heard them faying that they would fend for Puc-Puggy (for that was the name which they had given me, Signifying the Flower Hunter) to kill him or take him out of their camp. I anfwer-ed, that I defired to have nothing to do with him, apprehending fome difagrceable confequenccs; and defired that the Indians might be acquainted that I was engaged in bufinefs that required application and quiet, and was determined to avoid it if
pofliblc.
poffible. My old friend turned about to carry my anfwer to the Indians. I prefently heard them approaching and calling for Puc-Puggy. Starting up to efcape from their fight by a back door, a party confifting of three young fellows, richly drefled and ornamented, ftepped in, and with a countenance and action of noble ftmplicity, amity and complaisance, requefted me to accompany them to their encampment. I defired them to excufe me at this time; they pleaded and entreated me to go with them, in order to free them from a great rattle fnake which had entered their camp ; that none of them had freedom or courage to expel him; and underftanding that it was my pleafure to collect all their animals and other natural productions of their land, defired that I would come with them and take him away, that I was welcome to him.   I at length contented and attended on them to their encampment, where I beheld the Indians greatly difturbecl indeed.   The men with fticks and tomahawks, and the women and children collected together at a diftance in affright and trepidation, whilft the dreaded and revered ferpent leifurely traverfed their camp, vifiting the fire places from one to another, picking up fragments of their provifions and licking their platters.   The men gathered around me, exciting me to remove him: being armed with a lightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who inftantly collected himfelf in a vaft coil (their attitude of defence) I eaft my miftile weapon at him, which luckily taking his head, difpatched him inftantly, and laid him trembling at my feet. I took out my knife, fevered his head from his body, then turning about, the Indians complimented me with every demonftration of fatisfaction and approbation for my heroifm, and friend (hip for them.   I carried oft*
S 2 the
the head of the ferpent bleeding in my hand as a trophy of victory; and taking out the mortal fangs, depofited them carefully amongft my collections. I had not been long retired to my apartment, before I was again roufed from it by a tumult in the yard; and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, I ftarted up, when inftantly the old interpreter met me again,-and told me the Indians were approaching in order to fcratch me. I afked him for what ? he anfwer-* ed for killing the rattle fnake within their camp. Before I could make any reply or effect my efcape, three young fellows finging, arm in arm, came up to me. I obferved one of the three was a young prince who had, on my firft interview with him, declared himfelf my friend and protector, when he told me that if ever occafion fhould offer in hispre-fence, he would rifle his life to defend mine or improperly. This young champion flood by his two aflbciates, one on each fide of him : the two affecting a countenance and air of difpleafure and impor-' tance, inftantly prefenting their fcratching initru-ments,and flourilhing them, fpoke boldly, and faid that I was too heroic and violent, that it would be good for me to lofe fome of my blood to make me more mild and tame, and for that purpofe they were come to fcratch me. They gave me no time to ex-poftulate or reply, but attempted to lay hold on me, which I refitted; and my friend, the young prince, interpofed and puihed them off, faying that I was a brave warrior and his friend; that they fhould not infult me; when inftantly they altered their countenance and behaviour: they all whooped in chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clapped me on the fhoulder, and laid their hands on their breafts in token of fincere friendihip, and laughing aloud, faid I was a fincere friend to the Siminoles,
a wor-
a worthy and brave warrior, and that no one mould hereafter attempt to injure me. They then all three joined arm in arm again and went off, fhouting and proclaiming Puc-puggy was their friend, &c. Thus it feemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce to fatisfy their people and appeafe the manes* of the dead rattle fnake.
The next day was employed by the Indians in preparations for their departure, fuch as taking up their goods from the trading houfe, collecting together their horfes, making up their packs, &c. and the evening joyfully fpent in fongs and dances. The Succeeding morning after exhibiting the war-farce they decamped, proceeding on their expedition againft their enemy.
* Thefe people never kill the ratfle fnake or any other ferpenl, faying if they do fo, the fpirit of the killed fnake will excite or influence his living .kindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done to him yrhvn alive.
CHAP.
CHAP. X.
But let us again reiume the fubjecl: of the rattle fnake; a wonderful creature, when we confider his form, nature and difpofirion.   It is certain that he is capable by a puncture or fcratch of one of his fangs, not only to kill the largeft animal in America, and that in a few minutes time, but to turn the whole body into corruption ; but fuch is the nature of this dreadful reptile, that he cannot run or creep fafter than a man or child can walk, and he is never known to ftrike until he is firft alfaulted or fears himfelf in danger, and even then always gives the earlieft warning by the rattles at the extremity of the tail.   I have in the courfe of my travels in the Southern ftates (where they are the largeft, moft numerous and fuppofed to be the moft venemous and vindictive) ftept unknowingly fo clofe as almoft to touch one of them with my feet, and when I perceived him he was already drawn up in circular coils ready for a blow.   But however incredible it may appear, the generous, I may fay magnanimous creature lay as ftill and motionlefs as if inanimate, his head crouched in, his eyes almoft ilrut. I precipitately withdrew, urilefs when I have been fo (hocked with furprife and horror as to be in a manner rivettcd to the fpot, for a fhort time not having ftrength to go away ; when he often flowly extends himfelf and quietly moves off in a direct line, unlefs purfued, when he erects his tail as fir as the rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm by intervals. But if you purfuc and overtake him with a (hew of enmity, he inftantly throws himfelf into
the
the fpiral coil; his tail by the rapidity of its motion appears like a vapour, making a quick tremulous found; his whole body fwells through rage, continually rifing and falling as a bellows; his beautiful particoloured fkin becomes fpeckledand rough by dilatation; his head and neck are flattened, his cheeks fwollen and his lips conftricr.ed, difcover-ing his mortal fangs ; his eyes red as burning coals, and his brandifhing forked tongue of the colour of the hottefl flame, continually menaces death and deftrucYion, yet never ftrikes unlefs fure of his mark.
The rattle fnake is the largeft ferpent yet known to exift in North America. I have heard of their having been feen formerly, at the firft fettling of Georgia, feven, eight and even ten feet in length, and fix or eight inches diameter; but there are none of that fize now to be feen ; yet I have feen them above fix feet in length, and above fix inches in thicknefs, or as large as a man's leg ; but their general fize is four, five, and fix feet in length. They are fuppofed to have the power of fafci -nation in an eminent degree, fo as to inthral their prey. It is generally believed that they charm birds, rabbits, fquirrels and other animals, and by ftedfaftly looking at them poffefs them with infatuation : be the caufe what it may, the mifcrable creatures undoubtedly ftrive by every poftlble means to efcape, but alas! their endeavours are in vain, they at laft lofe the power of refiftance, and flutter or move flowly, but reluctantly, towards the yawning jaws of their devourers, and creep into their mouths, or lie down and fuffer themfelves to be taken and fwallowed.
S 4 Since,
Since, within the circle of my acquaintance, I am known to be an advocate or vindicator of the benevolent and peaceable difpofition of animal creation in general, not only towards mankind, whom they feem to venerate, but alfo towards one another, except where hunger or the rational and neceifary provocations of the fenfual appetite interfere, I fhall mention a few inftances, amongft many, which I have had an opportunity of remarking during my travels, particularly with regard to the animal I have been treating of. I fhall ftrictly confine myfelf to facts.
When on the fea coaft of Georgia, I confented, with a few friends, to make a party of amufement at fifhing and fowling on Sapello, one of the fea coaft iflands. We accordingly defcended the Alatamaha, crofted the found and landed on the North end of the ifland, near the inlet, fixing our encampment at a pleafant fituation, under the fhade of a irrove of Live Oaks and Laurels*, on the high banks of a creek which we afcended, winding through a fait marfh, which had its fource from a fwamp and favanna in the ifland: our fituation' elevated and open, commanded a comprehenfive landfcape ; the great ocean, the foaming furf breaking on the fandy beach, the fnowy breakers on the bar, the endlefs chain of iflands, checkered found and high continent all appearing before us. The diverting toils of the day were not fruitlefs, affording us opportunities of furnifhing ourfelves plentifully with a variety of game, fifh and oyfters for our fupper.
About two hundred yards from our camp was a cool fpring, amidft a grove of the odoriferous My-
* Magnolia gvandiflora, called by the inhabitants the Laurel.
rica:
rica: the winding path to this Salubrious fountain led through a graffy favanna. I vifited the Spring feveral times in the night, but little did I know, or any of my carelefs drowfy companions, that every time we vifited the fountain we were in imminent danger, as I am going to relate. Early in the morning, excited by unconquerable thirff, I a-rofe and went to the fpring ; and having, thought-lefs of harm or danger, nearly half pall the dewy vale, along the ferpentine foot path, my hafty fteps were fuddenly {lopped by the light of a hideous fer-pent, the formidable rattle fnake, in a high Spiral coil, forming a circular mound half the height of my knees, within fix inches of the narrow path. As foon as I recovered my fenfes and ilrength from fo hidden a furprife, 1 Started back out of his reach, where I Stood to view him : he lay quiet whilft I Surveyed him, appearing no way furprifed or dif-turbed, but kept his half-fhut eyes fixed on me. My imagination and Spirits were in a tumult, almoft equally divided betwixt thankfgiving to the Supreme Creator and preferver, and the dignified nature of the generous though terrible creature, who had differed us all to pafs many times by him during the night, without injuring us in the leafl, although we muft have touched him, or our fteps guided therefrom by a fupreme guardian Spirit. I hastened back to acquaint my affociates, but with a determination to protect the life of the generous ferpent. I prefently brought my companions to the place, who were, beyond expreflion, furprifed and terrified at the fight of the animal, and in a moment acknowledged their efcape from destruction to be miraculous ; and I am proud to aflert,that all of us, except one perfon, agreed to let him lie undifturbed, and
that
that perfon at length was prevailed upon to fufFer him to efcape.
Again, when in my youth, attending my father on a journey to the Catfkill Mountains, in the government of New-york; having nearly afcended the peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous in the purfuit of botanical and novel objects, I had gained thefummit of a fteep rocky precipice, a-head of our guide ; when juft entering a fnady vale, I faw at the root of a fmall fhrub, a fingular and beautiful appearance, which I remember to have inftantly apprehended to be a large kind of Fungus which we call Jews ears, and was juft drawing back my foot to kick it over; when at the inftant, my father being near, cried out, a rattle fnake my fon! and jerked me back, which probably faved my life. 1 had never before feen one. This was of the kind which our guide called a yellow one, it was very beautiful, fpeckled and clouded. My father pleaded for his life, but our guide was inexorable, laying he never fpared the life of a rattle fnake, and killed him; my father took his fkin and fangs.
Some years after this, when again in company with my father on a journey into Eaft Florida, on the banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attending the congrefs at a treaty between that government and the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territory from that people to annex to the new government; after the Indians and a detachment from the gar-rifon of St. Auguftine had arrived and encamped feparately, near the fort, fome days elapfed before the bufinefs of the treaty came on, waiting the arrival of a veffel from St. Auguftine, on board of which were the prefents for the Indians. My father employed this time of leifure in little excurfion s
Boas round about the fort; and one morning, being the day the treaty commenced, I attended him on a botanical excurfion. Some time after we had been rambling in a fwamp about a quarter of a mile from the camp, I being a-head a few paces, my father bid me obferve the rattle fnake before and juft at my feet. I flopped and faw the monfter formed in a high fpiral coil, not half his length from my feet: another ftep forward would have put my life in his power, as I muft have touched if not ftumbled over him. The fright and perturbation of my fpirits at once excited refentment; at that time I was entirely infenfible to gratitude or mercy. I inftantly cut off a little fapling and foon difpatched him : this ferpent was about fix feet in length, and as thick as an ordinary man's leg;.   The rencounter deterred us from proceeding on our refearches for that day.    So I cut off a long tough withe or vine, which faftening round the neck of the ftain ferpent, I dragged him after me, his fcaly body founding over the ground, and entering the camp with him in triumph, was foon furrounded by the amazed multitude, both Indians and my countrymen.   The adventure foon reached the ears of the commander, who fent an officer to requeft that, if the fnake had not bit himfelf] he might have him ferved up for his dinner. I readily delivered up the body of the fnake to the cooks, and being that day invited to dine at the governor's table, faw the fnake ferved up in feveral dimes; governor Grant being fond of the flefti of the rattle fiiake. I tafted of it but could not fwallow it. I, however, was forry after killing the ferpent, when cooly recollecting every circumftance. He certainly had it in his power to kill me almoft inftantly, and I make no doubt but that he was confeious of it.   I pro-mi fed
mifed myfelf that I would never again be acceffary to the death of a rattle fnake, which promife I have invariably kept to. This dreaded animal is eafily killed; a ftick no thicker than a man's thumb is fufficient to kill the largeft at one ftroke, if well directed, either on the head or acrofs the back ; nor can they make their efcape by running off, nor indeed do they attempt it when attacked.
The moccafin fnake is a large and horrid ferpent to all appearance, and there are very terrifying ftories related of him by the inhabitants of the Southern ftates, where they greatly abound, particularly in Eaft Florida: that their bite is always incurable, the flefh for a confiderable fpace about the wound rotting to the bone, which then becomes carious, and a general mortification enfues, which infallibly deftroys the patient; the members of the body rotting and dying by piecemeal: and that there is no remedy to prevent a lingering miferable death but by immediately cutting away the flefh to the bone, for fome diltance round about the wound. In fhape and proportion of parts they much referable the rattle fnake, and are marked or clouded much after the fame manner, but the colours more dull and obfeure; and in their difpofition feem to an-rce with that dreadful reptile, being flow of pro-greilion, and throwing themfelves in a fpiral coil ready for a blow when attacked. They have one pe-culiar quality, which is this, when difcovered, and obferving their enemy to take notice of them, after throwing themfelves in a coil, they gradually raife their upper mandible or jaw until it falls back nearly touching their neck, at the fame time flowly vi-bratingtheirlongpurple forked tongue, their crooked poifonous flings directed right atyou, which givesthe
creature
creature a moil: terrifying appearance. They are from three to four and even five feet in length, and as thick as a man's leg; they are not numerous, yet too common, and a fufficient terror to the mi-ferable naked flaves, who are compelled to labour in the fwamps and low lands where only they abound.
I never could find any that knew an inffance of any perfon's lofing their life from the bite of them, only by hearfay. Yet I am convinced it is highly prudent for every perfon to be on their guard a-gainft them. They appear to be of the viper tribe, from their Swelling of their body and flattening their neck when provoked, and from their large poifon-ous fangs: their head, mouth and eyes are remarkably large.
There is another fnake in Carolina and Florida called themoccaiin, very different from this; which is a very beautiful creature, and I believe not of a deitructive or vindictive nature. Thefe when grown to their greateft fize are about five feet in length, and near as thick as a man's arm; their fkin Scaly but Smooth and mining, of a pale grey and fky colour ground, uniformly marked with tranfverfe un-dulatory ringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown, edged with red or bright Spaniih brown. They appear innocent, very active and Swift, endeavouring to efcape from one ; they have no poifonous fangs. Thefe are feen in high foreft lands, about rotten logs or decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they harbour about old log buildings. They feem to be a Species, if not the very fame fnake which, in Penfyl-vania and Virginia, is called the vvampom fnake; but here in warmer Southern climes they grow to a much larger ilze, and from the fame accident their colour may be more variable and deeper.   They are by
the
the inhabitants aflerted to be dangeroufly venemous, their bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learn an inltancc of their bite being mortal or attended with any dangerous^ conlequence, and have had frequent opportunities of obferving their nature and difpofition, 1 am inclined to pronounce them an innocent creature, with relpeci: to mankind.
The baftard rattle fnake, by fome called ground rattle fnake, is a dangerous little creature: their bite is certainly mortal if prefent medical relief is not adminiftered : they feem to be much of the nature of the alp or adder of the old world.
This little viper is in form and colour much like the rattle fnake, but not fo bright and uniformly marked : their head is broader and ihorter in proportion to the other parts of their body: their nofe prominent and turned upwards: their tail becomes fuddenly fmall from the vent to the extremity, which terminates with three minute articulations, refembling rattles: when irritated they turn up their tail, which vibrates fo quick as to appear like a mift or vapour, but caufes little or no found or noife ; yet it is the common report of the inhabitants, that they caufe that remarkable vehement noife, fo frequently obferved in forefts in the heat of hammer and autumn, very terrifying to ftrangers, which is, probably, caufed by a very fable fmall infect of the genus cicadae, or which are called locufts in America; yet it is poftible I may be miftaken in this conjecture. This dangerous viper is from eight to ten inches in length, and of proportionable thicknefs. They are fpiteful, fnap-pifh creatures; and throwing themfelves into a little coil, diey fwell and flatten themfelves, continually darting out their head ; and they feem capable of t Springing
Springing beyond their length. They feem deftitute of the pacific difpofition and magnanimity of the rattle fnake, and are unworthy of an alliance with him. No man ever faves their lives, yet they remain too numerous, even in the oldefl fettled parts of the country.
The green fnake is a beautiful innocent creature: they are from two to three feet in length, but not fo thick as a perfons little finger; of the fined green colour. They are very abundant, commonly feen on the limbs of trees and fhrubs: they prey upon infects and reptiles, particularly the little green chameleon : and the forked tailed hawk or kite feeds on both of them, matching them off the boughs of the trees.
The ribband fnake is another very beautiful innocent ferpent: they are eighteen inches in length, and about the thicknefs of a man's little finger ; the head is very fmall; the ground colour of a full, clear vermilion, variegated with tranfverfe bars or zones of a dark brown, which people fancy repre-fents a ribband wound round the creature's body : they are altogether inofl'enfive to man, and are in a manner domeflic, frequenting old wooden buildings, open grounds and plantations.
The chicken fnake is a large, ftrong and fwift ferpent, fix or feven feet in length, but Scarcely fo thick as a man's wrift; they are of a cinereous, earthy colour, and ftriped longitudinally with broad lines or lifts, of a dufky or blackifh colour. They are a domeflic fnake, haunting about houfes ami plantations; and would be ufeful to man if tamed and properly tutored, being great devourers of rats,
but
but they are apt to difturb hen roofls and prey upon chickens. They are as innocent as a worm with refpect to venom, are eafily tamed and foon become very familiar.
The pine or bull fnake is very large and inoffen-five with refpect to mankind, but devours fquirrels, birds, rabbits, and every other creature it can take as food. They are the largeft fnake yet known in North America, except the rattle fnake, and perhaps exceed him in length: they are pied black and white : they utter a terrible loud hiffing noife, founding very hollow and like diftant thunder, when irritated, or at the time of incubation, when the males contend with each other for the defired female. Thefe ferpents are alfo called horn fnakes, from their tail terminating with a hard, horny fpur, which they vibrate very quick when difturbed, but they never attempt to ftrike with it; they have dens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitately when apprehenfive of danger.
There are many other fpecies of fnakes in the regions of Florida and Carolina; as the water fnake, black fnake, garter fnake, copper belly, ring neck, and two or three varieties of vipers, befides thofe already noticed in my journal. Since I have begun to mention the animals of thefe regions, this may be a proper place to enumerate the other tribes which 1 obferved during my perigrinations. I ifraU begin with* the frogs (ranae.)
(i) The largeft frog known in Florida and on the fea coait of Carolina, is about eight or nine inches in length from the nofe to the extremity of the toes: they are of a dufky brown or black colour on the upper fide, and their belly or under fide
^vhite, Spotted and clouded with dufky fpots of various fize and figure ; their legs and thighs alfo are variegated with tranfve- fe ringlets, of dark brown or black; and they arc yellow and green about their mouth and lips. They live in wet fwamps and marfhes, on the fhores of large rivers and lakes; their voice is loud and hideous, greatly refembling the grunting of a fwine; but not near as loud as the voice of the bull frog of Virginia and Pcnfylvania : neither do they arrive to half their fize, the bull frog being frequently eighteen" inches in length, and their roaring as loud as that of a bull.
(2) The bell frog, fo called becaufe, their voice is fancied to be exactly like the found of a loud cow bell. This tribe being very, numerous, and uttering their voices in companies or by large districts, when one begins another anfwers ; thus the found is caught and repeated from one to another, to a great diltance round about, caufing a furprifing noife for a few minutes, rifing and finking according as the wind fits, when it nearly dies away, or is foftly kept up by diftant diftricts or communities : thus the noife is repeated continually, and as one becomes familiarifed to it, is not unmufical, though at firft, to Strangers, it feems clamorous and difgufting.
(3) A beautiful greeri frog inhabits the graffy, marfhy fhores of thefe large rivers. They are very numerous, and their noife exactly refembles the barking of little dogs, or the yelping of puppies: thefe like wife make a great clamour, but as their notes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by Separate bands or communities, Sar and near, rifing and falling with the gentle breezes, affords a pleafing kind of mufic.
T (4) There
^4) There is befides this a lefs green frog, which is very common about houfes: their notes are remarkably like that of young chickens: thefe raife their chorus immediately preceding a mower of rain, with which they feem delighted.
(5) A little grey fpeckled frog is in prodigious numbers in and about the ponds and favannas on highland, particularly in Pine forefts: their language or noife is alfo uttered in chorus, by large communities or feparate bands; each particular note refembles the noife made by ftriking two pebbles together under the furface of the water, which when thoufands near you utter their notes at the fame time, and is wafted to your ears by a fudden flow of wind, is very furprifing, and does not ill refemble the ruihing noife made by a vaft; quantity of gravel and pebbles together, at once precipitated from a great height.
(6) There is yet an extreme diminutive fpecies of frogs, which inhabits the graffy verges of ponds in favannas: thefe are called favanna crickets, are of a dark alh or dufky colour, and have a very picked nofe. At the times of very great rains, in the autumn, when the favannas are in a manner inundated, they are to be feen in incredible multitudes clambering up the tall grafs, weed, &c. round the verges of the favannas, bordering on the higher ground; and by an inattentive perfon might be taken for fpiders or other infects. Their note is very feeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds or crickets.
(7) The fhad frog, fo called in Penfylvania from their appearing and croaking in the fpring feafon, at the time the people fifh for fhad: this is a
beautiful
beautiful Spotted frog, of a (lender form, five or fix inches in length from the nofe to the extremities; of a dark olive green, blotched with clouds and ringlets of a dufky colour: thefe are remarkable jumpers and enterprifing hunters, leaving their ponds to a great diftance in fearch of prey. They abound in rivers, fwamps and marfhes, in the Southern regions; in the evening and fultry fummer days, particularly in times of drought, are very noify; and at fome diftance one would be almoft perfuaded that there were affemblies of men in fe-rious debate. Thefe have alfo a fucking or clucking noife, like that which is made by fucking in the tongue under the roof of the mouth. Thefe are the kinds of water frogs that have come under my obfervation ; yet I am perfuaded that there are yet remaining feveral other fpecies.
(8) The highland frogs,commonly called toads, are of two fpecies, the red and black. The former, which is of a reddifh brown or brick colour, is the largeft, and may weigh upwards of one pound when full grown : they have a difagreeable look, and when irritated, they fwell and raife themfelves up on their four legs and croak, but are no ways venomous or hurtful to man. The other fpecies are one third lefs, and of a black or dark dufky colour. The legs and thighs of both are marked with blotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which appear more confpicuous when provoked: the fmaller black fpecies are the. moft numerous. Early in the fpring feafon, they afTcmble by numberlefs multitudes in the drains and ponds, when their univerfal croaking and ffiouts are great indeed, yet in fome degree not unharmonious. After this breeding time they crawl out of the water and fpread themfelves
T 2 all
all over the country. Their fpawn being hatched in the warm water, the larva is there nouriflied, pafling through the like metamorphofes as the water frogs; and as foon as they obtain four feet, whilft yet no larger than crickets,, they leave the fluid nurfery-bed, and hop over the dry land after their parents.
The food of thefe amphibious creatures, when out of the water, is every kind of infect, reptile, &C. they can take, even ants and fpiders; nature having furnilhed them with an extreme long tongue, which exudes a vifcid or glutinous liquid, they being fecreted under covert, fpring fuddenly upon their prey, or dart forth their tongue as quick as lightning, and inftantly drag into their devouring jaws the unwary infect. But whether they prey upon one another, as the water frogs do, I know not.
There are feveral fpecies of the lizard kind befides the alligator, which is by naturalists allowed to be a fpecies of that genus.
The green lizard or little green chameleon is a pretty innocent creature: the largeft I have feen were not more than feven inches in length: they appear commonly of a fine green colour, having a large red gill under their throat: they have the faculty of changing; colour, which, notwithstanding the fpecious reafoning of phyfiologiits, is a very furprifing phenomenon.  The Striped lizard, called fcorpion, and the blue bellied fquamous lizards I have already mentioned.   There is a large copper coloured lizard, and a very flender one of a fine blue colour, and very fwift; the tail of this laft, which is very long and flender, is as fubject to be broken off as that of the glafs fnake.   Thefe two
laft.
laft are become very fcarce, and when feen are difcovered about old log buildings.
Here are feveral fpecies of the tortoife, befides thofe already mentioned; as the fmall land tortoife, already defcribed by every traveller. There is a good figure and defcription of him in G. Edwards's Gl. Nat. Hift. vol. II. p. 205. There are two fpecies of frefh-water tortoifes inhabiting the tide water rivers; one of which is large, weighing ten or twelve pounds, the back fhell of nearly an oval form, and raifed very high, the belly fhell flat and entire, but deeply fcolloped oppofite the legs. The other fpecies are fmall, comparatively, and the back fhell lightly raifed : both fpecies are food for mankind and efteemed delicious.
Of beafts, the otter (hitra) is common, but more fo in Weft-Florida, towards the mountains. The feveral fpecies of muftela are common; as the mink, weafel and polecat (putorius). Racoons and opoffums are in great abundance; thefe animals are efteemed delicious and healthy food. There are two fpecies of wild-rats; but neither of them near as large as the European houfe-rat, which are common enough in the fettlements of the white people. Here are very few mice ; yet I have feen fome, particularly in Charlcfton. I faw two in a little wire cage, at a gentleman's houfe, which were as white as fnow, and their eyes red. There are yet a few beavers in Eaft-Florida and Georgia, but they abound moft in the north of Georgia, and in Weft-Florida, near the mountains. But the mufk-rat (caftor Cauda lanceolata) is never feen in Carolina, Georgia or Florida, within one hundred miles of the fea coaft, and very few in the moft T 3 northern
northern parts of thefe regions; which mull be confidered as a moll favourable circumftance, by the people in countries where there is fo much banking and draining or the land, they being the moft deilruclive creatures to dykes.
The roe-buck I have already mentioned. The bears are yet too numerous: they are a ftrong creature, and prey on the fruits of the country, and will likewife devour young calves, fwine and fticep; but I never could learn a well attefted inftance of their attacking mankind. They weigh from five hundred to fix hundred weight when full grown and fat: their flefti is greatly efteemed as food by the natives.
The wild cat, felis cauda truncata, (lynx) |s common enough; it is a fierce and bold little animal, preying on young pigs, fawns, turkeys, &c. They are not half the fize of a common cur dog, are generaJJy of a greyifti colour, and fomewhat tabbied ; their fides bordering on the belly are varied with yellowifh brown fpots, and almoft black waving ftreaks, and brindled. I have been credibly informed that the wolves here are frequently feen pied, black and white, and of other mixed colours. They afTemble in companies in the night time, howl and bark altogether, efpecially in cold winter nights, which, is terrifying to the wandering bewildered traveller.
The foxes of Carolina and Florida are of the Smaller red fpecics j they bark in the night round about plantations, but do not bark twice in the fame place ; they move precipitately, and in a few minutes are heard on the oppofite fide of the plantation, or at a great diftai.ee : it is faid that dogs are terrified at the noife, and cannot be perfuaded
or
or compelled to purfue them. They commit depredations on young pigs, lambs, poultry, &c.
The mole is not fo common here as in the northern eftates.
The bats of Florida feem to be the fame fpecies of thofe in Penfylvania and Virginia, and very little different from the European.
Here are feveral fpecies of fquirrels, (fciurus) peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime parts of Carolina and the Floridas, and fome of them are very beautiful creatures.
The great black fox fquirrel is above two feet in length from the nofe to the end of the tail, which for about two inches is milk white, as are the ears and nofe. The red fox fquirrel is of the fame fize and form, of a light reddifh brown upper fide, and white under fide, the ears and tip end of the tail white,
The grey fox fquirrel is rather larger than cither of the foregoing; their belly white, as are the ears, nofe, and tip of the tail. Thefe three feem to be varieties of the fame fpecies.
The common grey fquirrel is about half the fize of the preceding.
The black fquirrel is about the fame fize, and all over of a fhining jet black.
The little grey fquirrel is much lefs than either of the preceding fpecies; it is of a brownifh gvey upper fide, and white belly.
T 4 The
The ground fquirrel, or little ftripcd fquirrel of Penfylvania and the northern regions, is never feen here, and very rarely in the mountains north-weft of thefe territories; but the flying fquirrel, (Iciurus volans) is very common.
The rabbit (lepus minor, Cauda abrupta, pupil-lis atris) is pretty common, and no ways differing from thofe of Penfylvania and the northern ftates.
Having mentioned moft of the animals in thefe parts of America, which are moft remarkable or pfefu), there remains, however, yet fome obferva-tions on birds, which by fome may be thought not impertinent.
There are but few that have fallen under my obfervation, but have been mentioned by the zoo-logiits, and moft of them very well figured in Catefby's, or Edwards's works.
But thefe authors have done very little towards elucidating the fubject of the migration of birds, or accounting for the annual appearance and dif-appearance, and vanifhing^ of thefe beautiful and entertaining beings, who vifit us at certain ftated feafons. Catefby has faid very little on this curious fubject] but Edwards more, and perhaps all, or as much as could be faid in truth, by the moft able and ingenious, who had not the advantage and opportunity of ocular oblervation; which can only be acquired by travelling, and refiding a whole year at leaft in the various climates from north to fouth, to the full extent of their peregrinations; or minutely examining the tracts andobfervations of curious and induftrious travellers who have publiftied their memoirs on this fubject. There may perhaps be fome perfons who confider this enquiry not to
be
be productive of any real benefit to mankind, and pronounce fuch attention to natural hiftory merely Speculative, and only fit to amufe and entertain the idle virtuofo ; however the ancients thought other-wife : for with them, the knowledge of the paflfage of birds was the Study of their priefts and philofo-phers, and was confidered a matter of real and in-difpenfaHe ufe to the ftate, next to aftronomy; as we find their fyftem and practice of agriculture was in a great degree regulated by the arrival and disappearance of birds of paflage ; and perhaps a calendar under fuch a regulation at this time, might be ufeful to the hufbandman and gardener.
But however attentive and obfervant the ancients were on this branch of fcience, they feem to have been very ignorant or erroneous in their conjectures concerning what became of birds, after their difappearan< c, until their return again. In the fouthei n and temperate climates fome imagined they went to the moon: in the northern regions they fuppofed that they retired to caves and hollow trees, for fhelter and Security, where they remained in a dormant ftate during the cold SeaSons; and even at this day, very celebrated men have alferted that Swallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter, volunta.ily plunge into lakes and rivers, defcend to the bottom, and there creep into the mud and Slime, where they continue overwhelmed by ice in a torpid ftate, until the returning Summer warms them again into life; when they riSe, return to the fuiface of the water, immediately take wing, and again people the air. This notion, though the lateft, feems the moft difficult to reconcile to reafon and common fenfe, refpecting a bird So Swift of flight that it can with cafe and pleafu; e move through the
air
air even Swifter than the winds, and in a few hours time fhift twenty degrees from north to fouth, even from frozen regions to climes where froft is never feen, and where the air and plains are replenifhcd with flying infects of infinite variety, its favourite and only food.
Penfylvania and Virginia appear to me to be the climates in North-America, where the greateft variety and abundance of thefe winged emigrants choofe to celebrate their nuptials, and rear their offspring, which they annually return with, to their winter habitations, in the fouthern regions of N. America; and moft of thofe beautiful creatures, which annually people and harmonife our forefts and groves, in the fpring and fummer feafons, are birds of paflage from the fouth ward. The eagle, i. e. falco leucoccphalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus, or great grey eagle, falco major cauda ferrugineo, falco pullarius, falco columbarius, ftrix pythaulis, ftrix acclamatus, ftrix aflio, tetrao tympanus, or pheafant of Penfylvania, tetrao urogallus, or mountain cock or grous of Penfylvania, tetrao minor five coturnix, or partridge of Penfylvania, picus, or woodpeckers of feveral fpecies, corvus carnivorus, or raven, corvus frugivora, or crow, corvus glandarius f. corvus criftatus, or blue jay, alauda maxima, regulus atrofufcus minor, or marfh wren, fitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhaps nearly all the land birds which continue the year round in Penfylvania. I might add to thefe the blue bird, motacilla fialis, mock bird, turdus poly-glottos, and fometimes the robin redbreaft, turdus migratorius, in extraordinary warm winters; and although I do not pretend to aflert as a known truth, yet it may be found on future obfervation
that moil; of thefe above mentioned are Strangers; or not really bred where they wintered; but are more northern families, or fojourners, bound Southerly to more temperate habitations; thus pufh-ing each other Southerly, and poffeffing their vacated places, and then back again at the return of fpring.
Very few tribes of birds build; or rear their young, in the fouth or maritime parts of Virginia and Carolina, Georgia and Florida; yet all thefe numerous tribes, particularly of the foft billed kinds, which breed in Peniylvania, pafs in the fpring feafon through thefe regions in a few weeks time, making but very fhort Stages by the way: and again, but few of them winter there, on their return foutherly : and as I have never travelled the continent fouth of New Orleans, or the point of Florida, where few or none of them are to be feen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how far fouthward they continue their route, during their abfence from Penfylvania; but perhaps none of them pafs the tropic.
When in my refidence in Carolina and Florida, I have feen vaft flights of the houfe Swallow (hirur-do pelafgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) paf-fing onward north toward Penfylvania, where they breed in the fpring, about the middle of March, and likewife in the autumn in September or October, and large flights on their return fouthward. And it is obfervable that they always avail themfelves of the advantage of high and favourable winds, which likewife do all birds of pafTage. The pewit, or black cap flycatcher, of Catefby, is the Sir ft bird of paiiage which appears in the fpring h Penfylvania, which is generally about the firft, or
middle
midde of March ; and then wherever they appear, we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds, (vicia fativa) French beans (phafeolus) Tow rad-difties, (raphanus) lettuce, (lactuca) onions, (cepa) paftinaca, daucus, and almoft every kind of ef-cnlent garden feeds, without fear or danger from frofts; for although we have fometimes frofts after their firft appearances for a night or two, yet not fo fevere as to injure the young plants.
In the fpring of the year the fmall birds of paf-fage appear very fuddenly in Pennsylvania, which is not a little furprifing, and no lefs pleafing: at once the woods, the groves, and meads, are filled with their melody, as if they dropped down from the fkies. The reafon or probable caufe is their Setting off with high and fair winds from the fouthward ; for a ftrong fouth and fouth-weft wind about the beginning of April never fails bringing millions of thefe welcome vifitors.
Being willing to contribute my mite towards illustrating the fubjed oS the peregrination of the tribes of birds of N. America, I fhall Subjoin a nomenclature of the birds of paflage, agreeable to my oblervation, when on my travels from New England to New-Orleans, on the Miflifiippi, and point of Florida.
Land birds which are feen in Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, from S. Carolina, Georgia and Florida, N. and the fea coaft Weft ward, to the Apalachian mountains, viz.
* These arrive in Pennfylvania in the fpring feafon from the South, and after building nefts, and rearing their young, return again Southerly in the autumn.
t Thesf;
\ These arrive in Pennfylvania in the autumn, from the North, where they continue during the winter, and return again the fpring following, I fuppofe to breed and rear their young ; and thefe kinds continue their journies as far South as Caroli-lina and Florida.
J These arrive in the fpring in Carolina and Florida from the South, breed and rear their young, and return South again at the approach of winter, but never reach Pennfylvania, or the Northern States.
|| These are natives of Carolina and Florida, where they breed and continue the year round.
f Thefe breed and continue the year round in Pennfylvania.
Strix.   The Owl.
■j- Strix arcticus, capite levi, corpore toto niveo;
the great white owl. €[ Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufo ;
the great horned owl. -j- Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo ;
the great horned white owl. f Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grifeo;
the whooting owl. f Strix peregrinator, capite aurito, corpore ver-
fi colore ; the fharp winged owl. «] Strix affio, capite aurito, corpore ferrugineo ;
the little fcreech owl.
Vultur.   The Vulture.
|| Vultur aura; the turkey-buzzard. || Vultur facra; the white tailed vulture. i| Vultur atratus; black vulture, or carrion crow,
Falco,
F .r CO,   Eagle and Hawk,
t *alis; the great grey eagle,
i phalusj the bald eagle.
* gi pifcatorius; the filhing eagle.
5j F. Aquilinus ; cauda ferrug. great eagle hawk. <J F. gallinarius; the hen hawk. ^[ F. pullarius; the chicken hawk.
* F. columbarius; the pigeon hawk. % F. niger; the black hawk.
* F. ranivorus; the marlh hawk.
* F. fparverius; theleaft hawk or fparrow fpark,
a Milvus.   Kite I lawk.
|| Falco furcatus; the forked tail hawk, or kite. || F. glaucus; the fharp winged hawk, of a pale
fky-blue colour, the tip of the wings black. f| F. fubceruleus; the fharp winged hawk, of a
dark or dufky blue colour. (I Pfittacus Carolinienfis ; the parrot of Carolina,
or parrakeet.
Corvus.   The Crow kind.
* Corvus carnivorus; the raven.
|| C. maritimus; the great fea-fide crow,or rook, ^ C. frugivorus; the common crow, f C. criftatus, f. pica glandaria j the blue jay. f[ C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor; the little
jay of Florida. ^ Gracula quifcula; the purple jackdaw of the fea coaft.
a Kite hawks. Theft an characlcrifcd by having long fharp pointed wings, being of fwift flight, failing without flapping their wings, lean light bodies, and feeding out of their claws on the wing, as they gently fail round and round.
Fica glundaria cerulea non criftata, the little jay of Eaft Florida.
* Gracula purpurea; the letter purple jackdaw,
or crow blackbird.
* Cuculus Carclinienfis; the cuckoo of Carolina.
Picus. Woodpeckers. || Picus principalis; the greateft crafted wood-pecker, having a white back.
* P. peilatus; the great red crefted black wood-
pecker.
* P. erythrocephalus; red headed woodpecker.
* P. auratus; the gold winged woodpecker, f P. Carolinus; the red bellied woodpecker.
f P. pubefcens; the lead fpotted woodpecker. P. villofus; the hairy, fpeckled and crefted
woodpecker, f P. varius; yellow bellied woodpecker. ^[ Sitta Europea; grey black capped nuthatch, •j- S. varia, ventre rubro; the black capped, red
bellied nuthatch, f Certhia rufa; little brown variegated creeper.
* C. pinus ; the pine creeper.
* C. picta; blue and white ftriped or pied creeper.
* Alcedo alcyon; the great crefted king-fifher.
* Trochilus colubris; the humming bird.
* Lanius grifeus; the little grey butcher-bird of
Penfylvania.
* L. garrulus; the little black capped or butcher
bird of Florida.
* L. tyrannus; the king bird,
* Mufcicapa nunciola ; the pewit, or black cap
flycatcher.
* M. criftata; the great crefted yellow bellied
flycatcher.
* M. rapax; the lefier pewit, or brown and
greenifh flycatcher.
* M. fubviridis; the little olive coid. flycatcher.
i * Mufcicapa
* Mufcicapa cantatrix; the   little domeflic fly-
catcher or green wren.
* M. fylvicola; the little red eyed flycatcher.
* Columba Carolinicnfis, the turtle dove, j] C. pafferina; the dove.
jj C. migratoria; the pigeon of paiTage or wild pigeon.
* Alauda magna; the great meadow lark.
-j- A campeftris ; gutture flavo, the Iky lark.
f A. migratoria; corpore  toto  ferrugineo, the
little brown lark, f Tufdus migratorius; the fieldfare, or robin
redbreafl.
* T. rufus ; the great, or fox coloured thrufh.
* T. polyglottos ; the mocking bird.
* T. melodes; the wood thrufh,
* T. minimus, vertice auro; the leafl golden
crown thrufh.
* Oriolus Baltimore; Baltimore bird or hang neft.
* O. fpurtus; the goldfinch or icterus minor.
* Merula flammulaj fand-hill redbird of Carolina.
* M. Marilandica; the fummer red bird.
* Garrulis auftralis ; the yellow breafted chat.
* Lucar lividus, apice nigra; the cat bird, or
chicken bird. Ampelis garrulus; crown bird, or cedar bird.
Granivorous Tribes.
€ Meleagris Americanus; the wild turkey, f Tetrao lagopus ; the mountain cock, or grous. % T, tympanus ; the pheafant of Penfylvania. % T. minor, f. coturnix; the quail or partridge^ f Loxia cardinalis; the red bird, or Virginia
nightingale, f L. roftro forficato ; the crofs beak.
* L. cerulea; the blue crofs beak.
* Emberiza oryzivora; (i) the rice bird.*
+ E. livida; the blue or Hate coloured rice birch
* E. varia ; (2) the pied rice bird.
J Linaria ciris; the painted finch, or nonpareil,
* L. cyanea ; the blue linnet.
% Carduelis Americanus, the goldfinch* -j- C. minus; the leffer goldfinch, f C. pufilns ; the leaft finch.
* Fringilla erythrophthalma, the towhe bird, -j- F. purpurea ; the purple finch.
f F. cannabiria; the hemp bird.
f F. rufa; the red, or fox-coloured ground or
hedge fparrow. f F. fufca; the large brown white throat fparrow.
* Paffer domefticus;  the little houfe farrow
or chipping bird.
* P. paluftris ; the reed fparrow.
* P. agreftis j the little field fparrow-f P. nivalis; the fnow bird.
* Calandra pratenfis; the May bird.
* Sturnus pradatorius; the red winged ftarling,
or corn thief.
* S. ftercorarius; fhe cowpen bird.
* Motacilla fialis; the blue bird. (Rubicula
Americana, Cat.)
* M. fluviatilis ; the water wagtail.
* M. domeftica (regulus rufus); the houfe wren. * M. paluftris; (reg. minor) the marfh wren.
* M. Caroliniana; (reg. magnUs) the great
wren of Carolina, the body of a dark brown, the throat and breaft of a pale clay colour.
* Regulus grifeus; the little bluifh grey wren, t R. criftatus ; the golden crown wren.
■ * (1, 2) Arc generally fuppofcd to be male and female of the fame fpecics '2J    tfte pic4 ri«c bird eke male, and (i) or the yellow, the female.
U t R.
t R. criftatus alter vertice rubinl coloris; the ruby crown wren. (G. Edwards.)
* R. peregrinus, gutture flavo;the olive coloured
yellow throated wren.
* Ruticilla Americana ; the redftart.
* Lufcinia, f .philomela Americana; the yellow-
hooded titmoufe.
* Parus criltatus; bluiih grey crefted titmoufe. ^| P. Europams, the black cap titmoufe.
* P. luteus i the fummer yellow bird.
* P. cedrus uropygio flavo; the yellow rump.
* P. varius; various coloured little finch creeper.
* P. peregrinus; little chocolate breaft titmoufe.
* P. aureus vertice rubro; the yellow red pole.
* P. aureo vertice; the golden crown flycatcher,
* P. viridis gutture nigro;  the green black
throated flycatcher.
* P. alis aureis; the golden winged flycatcher.
* P. aureus alis ceruleis; the blue winged yellow
bird.
* P. grifeus gutture luteo ; the yellow throated
creeper.
* Hirundo pelafgia cauda aculeata ; the houfe
fwallow.
* H. purpurea; the great purple martin.
* H. riparia vertice purpurea; the bank martin.
* H. cerdo ; the chimney fwallow.
J Caprimulgus lucifugus; the great bat, or chuck wills widow.
* c. Americanus; nighthawkjor whip poor will.
Amphibious, or Aquatic Birds, Or fuch as obtain their food, and refide, in and near the water.
Grus.   The Crane. j| Grus clamator, vertice papillofo, corpore ni-
veo remigibus nigris; the great whooping crane. '  • •
G. pratenfis; corpore cinereo, vertice papil-loio ; the great favanna crane.
Ardea.   The Heron. «[■ Ardea Herodias; the great bluifh grey crefted heron. ri.
* A. immp.culata; the great white river heron-
* A. alba minor- the little white heron.
J A. purpurea criftata; the little crefted purple or blue heron.
* A. varia criftata; the grey white crefted heron* J .A. macula ta criftata ; the fpeckled crefte
heron, or crabcatcher.
* A. mugitans; the marfh bittern, or Indian hen.
* A. clamator, corpore fubcreruleo; the quaw
bird, or frogcatcher. J A. fubfufca ftillaqa; the little brownifh fpotted bitern.
J A. violacea; the crefted blue bittern, (callecl poor Job.)
* A. virifcens; the green bittern or poke.
* A. virifcens minor, the lefTer green bittern.
* A. parva; the leaft brown and ftiiped bittern.
* Platalea ajajaj the fpoonbill, feen as far North
as Alatamaha river in Georgia.
Tantalus.   The wood Pelican. ± Tantalus locuiator j the wood pelican. J T. albus; the white Spaniih curlew. J T. fufcusj the dufky and white Spaniih curlew. || T. pichis; (Ephoufkyka Indian) the crying
bird, beautifully fpeckled. || T. Ichthyophagus; the gannet; perhaps little
different from the Ibis. |j Numenius alba varia ; the white godwit. ■ N, pedore rufo; the great red breaftedgodwifi
f N. Americana ; the greater godwit. f N. fluvialis ; the redfhank or pool fnipe. f N. magnus rums; the great fea coaft curlew.
* N. minor campeftris; the lefler field curlew. N. cinereus; the feafide lefler curlew.
* Scolopax Americana rufa; great red woodcock.
* S. minor arvenfis; the meadow fnipe.
* Tringa rufa; the red cootfooted tringa.
T. cinerea, gutture albo; the white throated
cootfooted tringa. T. vertice nigro; black cap cootfooted tringa. % T. maculata ; the fpotted tringa. ^[ T grifea; the little pond fnipe. % T. fufca ; the little brown or afh coloured pool fnipe.
f T. parva; the little tringa of the fea fhore, called fand bird.
* Morinella Americana; the turnftone or dotrel. •f Cygnus ferus ; the wild fwan.
f Anfer Canadenfis; the Canadian goofe.
■} A. alis ca^rulis; the blue winged goofe.
j A. fufcus maculatus; the laughing goofe.
j- A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris; the white brant goofe.
+ A. branta gtifea maculata; the great particoloured brant, or grey goofe.
f Anas fera torquata major, caput et collum viridi fplendentia, dorfum grifeo fufcum, pecliore rufefcente,fpeculumviolaceum; the great wiid duck, called duck and mallard.
f A. nigra maxima; the great black duck.
-j- A. bucephala; the bull neck and buffaloe head.
f A. fubcairulea; the blue bill.
{ A. leucocephala; the black white faced duck.
f A. caudacuta ; the fprig tail duck.
j A. ruftica; the little brown and white duck.
f A. principalis, maculata; the various coloured duck, his neck and breaft as though ornamented with chains of beads.
f A. minor picta ; the little black and white duck called butterback.
QUERQ^TEDULAE Teal.
* Anas fponfa; the fummer duck.
-j- A. difcors ; the blue winged teal.
+ A. migratoria ; the leaft green winged teal,
* A. fiftulofa; whittling duck.
f Mergusmajorpecftore rufb; great ftlhing duck, •f M. cucullatus ; the round crefted duck.
* Colymbus migratorius; the eel crow.
j| C. Floridanus; the great black cormorant of Florida, having a red beak. C. colubrinus, cauda elongataj the fnake bird of Florida.
4J[ C. muficus; die great black and white pied
diver or loon. f Colymbus ar&iais; the great fpeckled diver, f C. auritus et comutus; the little eared brown
dobchick,
ff C. minor fufcus; little creftedbrown dobchick. j Phaasthon aethereus ; the tropic bird. ^ Larus albus; the great white gull. 4 L. grifeus; the great grey gull, j L. albus minor; the little white river gull. || Onocrotalus Americanus; the American fea pelican.
|| Petrella pintada ; the pintada bird. % Rynchops niger; the fhearwateror razor bill, j Pelicanus aquilus; the frigate, or man of war bird.
J P. fula; the booby.
t Sterna ftolida; the fea fwallow, or noddy.
U 3 Charadrus.
Charadrus.   The Plover kind.
* Charadrus vociferus; die kildea or chattering
plover.
* C. maculatus; the great field Spotted plover.
* C. minor; the little feafide ring nec\ "d plover.
* H^matopus oihealcgusi the will willet or
oyfter catcher. || Fulica Floiidan'a j the great blue or flatc co-I loured coot of* Florida.
* Kalius Virginianus; the force bird or little
brown rail, alfo called widgeon in Pennfyk J P.. amiaticus minor; the little daik blue water . ' rail, ,•■>■•
* R. rufus Americanus ; the greater brown rail. || R   major fubcreruleus ; the blue or flatc co-
.   domed water rail of Florida.
* PhoenicopLcrus ruber j the flamingo, feen
about the point of Florida, rarely as far N. as St. Auguftine.
I am convinced there are yet feveral kinds of land birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl, that have not come under my particular notice; there-* fore fhall leave them to the inveftigation of future travelling naturalifts of greater ability and in-duftry.
There yet remain fome obfervations on the paf-fage, and breeding of birds, &c. which may be proper to notice in this place.
I fhall firft mention the rice bird, (emberiza oryzivora.) It is the commonly received opinion that they are male and female of the fame fpecies, i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yel-lowiih clay coloured one the female: the lafl mentioned appearing only in the autumn, when the
oryza
oryza zizania are about ripening; yet in my opinion there are fome ftrong circumftances which feem to operate againft fuch a conjecture, though generally believed.
In the fpring, about the middle of May, the black pied rice bird (which is called the male) appears in Pennfylvania \ at that time the great yellow ephemera, called May fly, and a fpecies of locufta appear in incredible multitudes, the favorite delicious food of thefe birds, when they are Sprightly, vociferous, and pleaftngly tuneful.
When I was at St. Auguftine, in E. Florida, in the beginning of April, the fame fpecies of grafs-hoppers were in multitudes on the fields and commons about the town ; when great flights of thefe male rice birds fuddenly arrived from the South, which by feeding on thefe infects became extremely fat and delicious: they continued here two or three weeks, until their food became fcarce, when they disappeared, I fuppofe purfuing theirjourney North after the locufta and ephemera ; there were a few of the yellow kind, or true rice bird, to be feen amongft them. Now thefe pied rice birds feem to obferve the fame order and time in their migrations Northerly, with the other fpring birds ofpaf-fage, and arc undoubtedly on their way to their breeding place; but then there are no females with them, at leaft not one to ten thoufand of the male colour, which cannot be fuppofed to be a fufficient number to pair and breed by. Being in Charlefton in the month of June, I obferved at a gentleman's door, a cage full of rice birds, that is of the yellow or female colour, who were very merry and vociferous, having the fame variable mufic with the
U 4 pied
pied or male kind, which I thought extraordinary; and obferving it to the gentleman, he aiTured me that they were all of the male kind, taken the preceding fprmg, but had changed their colour, and would be next fpring of the colour of the pied, thus charging colour with the feafons of the year. If this is really the cafe, it appears they are both of the fame fpecics intermixed, fpring and fall. In the fpring they are gay, vociferous and tuneful birds.
Ampelis garrulus; crown bird or cedar bird* Thefe birds feed on various forts of fucculent fruit and berries, aflbciating in little flocks or flights, and are to be feen in all the regions from Canada to New Orleans on the Miffifiippi, and how much farther South and South-Well: I know not, They pblerye no fixed time of appearance in Pennfyl-vania,but are to be feen in a few days every month of the year j fo that it is difficult to determine at what feafon they breed, or where. The longeft period of their appearance in Pennfylvania is in the fpring and firft of June, at the time the early cherries are ripe, when they are numerous; and it) the autumn when the Cedar berries are ripe (Juniperus Americana; they arrive in large flights, and, with the Jpbins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump (parus cedrus) foon ftrip thofe trees of their berries, after which they difappear again; but in November and December they appear in fmaller flights, feeding on the fruir of the Perfimon (Dyofpyros Vir-giniana ;) and fome aie feen till March, fubfifting upon Smilax berries, Privet (Liguftrum vulgare) and other permanent fruits; after which they difappear until May and June. I have been informed by fome people in Pennfylvania, that they have found their nefts at thefe feafons in Pennfylvania.
Lanaria
Linaria ciris (emberiza ciris Linn.) or painted finch* or nonpareil of Catefby, is not feen North of Cape Fear, in North Carolina, and feldom ten miles from the fea coaft, or perhaps twenty or thirty miles, near the banks of great rivers, in fragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium) Zanthoxylon, Laurus Borbonia, Caftlne, Sider-oxylon, &c.
Linaria cyanea (tanagra Linn.) the blue linnet, is fuppofed by fome to be the nonpareil, in an early ftage of life, not being yet arrived to his brilliancy and variety of colours j but this is certainly a mistake, for the blue linnet is longer and of a ftenderer configuration, and their notes more variable, vehement and fonorous. And they inhabit the continent and fea coaft iflands from Mexico to Nova Scotia, from the fea coaft, Weft beyond the Apalachean and Cherokee mountains. The fongs of the nonpareil are remarkably low, foft and warbling, exceedingly tender and foothing,
Catefby, in his hiftory of Carolina, fpeaking of the cat-bird (mufcicapa vertice nigro) fays, " They have but one note, which refembles the mewing of a cat;" a miflake very injurious to the fame of that bird ; he, in reality, being one of our moft eminent fongfters, little inferior to the philomela or mock-bird; and, in fome remarkable inftances, perhaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a buffoon or mimick. He endeavours to imitate every bird and animal, and in many attempts does not ill fucceed, even in rehearfing the longs, which he attentively liftens to, from the fhepherdefs and rural fwain; and will endeavour and fucceed to admiration, in repeating the melodious and variable airs from inftrumental muftc, and this in his wild ftate
of
of nature. They are a kind of domeflic bird during their fpring and fummer refidence in Penfylvania, building their nefts in gardens and (bettering themfelves in groves near the hoiiles. They caufe great trouble and vexation to hens that have broods of chickens, by imit°tiniT their diitrefting cries, in which they feem to enjoy much delight, and caufe fome amufement to perfons who are diverted at fuch incidents. They are the firft bird heard ringing in the morning, even before break of day.
They feem to be a tribe of birds feparated by nature from the motacilke, with which the zoologifts have clafled them, and appear allied to a tribe peculiar to America, to which Edwards has given the name of manakin. In their nature they feem to take place between the thrufh (tardus) and mota-cilla, their beak being longer, ftronger, and ftraighter than the motacilla, and formed for eating fiuit, which is their chief food; yet they will feed on reptile infects, but never attempt to take their prey on the wing.
Catefby is chargeable with the like miftake with refpect to the little thrufh (t. minor) and the fox coloured thrufh (t. rufus) both eminent fingers, and the latter little inferior to the mock-bird. The former for his fbrill, fonorous and elevated ftrains in the high, fhady forefts; and the latter for variety, foftnefs and conftant refporifes in the hedges and groves near houfes.
But yet Catefby has fome right of claim to our excufe and jtillification, for his detraction of the fame due to thefe eminent muficians of the groves and forefts, when we confider that he refided and made his collections and obfervations, in the regions
ons which are the winter retreats and refidence of thefe birds, where they rarely fing; as it is obferva-ble and mod: true, that it is only at the time of incubation, rhat birds fmg in their wild ftate of nature. The cat-bird, great and lefs thrufh and fieldfare, feldom or never build in Carolina beneath the mountains, except the great or fox coloured thrufh in a few inftances, but all thefe breed in Penfylvania.
The parakeets (pfitacus Carolinienfis) never reach fo Ear North as Pennfylvania, which to me is unaccountable, confidering they are a bird of fuch Angularly npid flight, that they could eafily perform ' the journey in ten or twelve hours from North Caro- • lina, where they are very numerous, and we abound with all the fiuits which they delight in.
I was aftured in Carolina, that thefe birds, for a month or two in the coldeft winter weather, houfe themfelves in hollow Cyprefs trees, clinging faft to each other like bees in a hive, where they continue in a torpid ftate until the warmth of the returning fpring reanimates them, when they iffue forth from their late dark, cold winter cloifters. But I lived feveral years in North Carolina and never was wit-nefs to an inftance of it; yet I do not at all doubt but there have been inftances of belated flocks thus furprifed by hidden fevere cold, and forced into fuch flu Iter, and the extraordinary feverity and perfe-veiance of the feafon might have benumbed them into a torpid, fleepy ftate ; but that they all willingly fhould yield to lb difagreeable and hazardous a ft nation does not feem reafonable or natural, when we confider that they are a bird of the fwifteft flight an i impatient of fevere coid. They are eafily amed, when they become docile and familiar, but never ham to imitate the human language.
Both
Both fpecies of the Baltimore bird (oriolus, Linn, icterus, Cat.) are Ipring birds of paffage and breed ill Pennfylvania; they have loud and mufical notes.
The yellow bieafted chat (oenanthe, Cat. mota-cilla tfochilus, Linn.) is in many inftances a very fingular bird, the variablenefs and mimickry of his notes or fpecch, imitating various creatures; and a furprifing faculty of uttering a coarfe, hollow founding noife in their throats or crops, which at times feems to be at a great diftance, though uttered by a bird very near, and vice verfa. They arrive in Pennfylvania from the South, late in the month of May, breed and return again early in autumn.
It is a matter of enquiry, what ftiould have induced the zoologifts to clafs this bird with the motacil-Ije, when they difcover no one characteristic to induce fuch an alliance; this bird having a remarkable thick, ftrong bill, more like the frugivorous tribes: and in my opinion they are guilty of the like overftght in clafiing the fummer red-bird with the mufcicapa, this bird having a thick, ftrong bill, approaching nearer the ftarling (fturnus.)
Thefe hiftorical obfervations being noted, we will again refume the fubject of our journey.
Cf?AP.
CHAP. XI.
After the predatory band of Siminoles, under the conduce of the Long Warrior, had decamped, Mr. M'Latche invited me with him on a vifit to an Indian town, about twelve miles diftance from the trading-houfe, to regale ourfelves at a feaft of Water Melons and Oranges, the Indians having brought a canoe load of them to the trading-houfe the day preceding, which they difpofed of to the traders. This was a circumftance pretty extraordinary to me, it being late in September, a feafon of the year when the Citruels are ripe and gone in Georgia and Carolina ; but here the weather yet continued hot and fultry, and confequcntly this cool, exhilarating fruit was ftill in high relifh and eftimation.
After breakfafting, having each of us a Siminolc horfe completely equipped, we fat off: the ride was agreeable and variously entertaining. We kept no road or pathway constantly, but as Indian hunting tracks by chance Suited our courle, riding through high open, pine forefts, green lawns and flowery favannas in youthful verdure and gaity, having been lately burnt, but now overrun with a green enamelled carpet, chequered with hommocks of trees of dark green foliage, interfered with fer-pentine rivulets, their banks adorned with fhrub-beries of various tribes, as Andromeda formofiftima, And. nitida, And. viridis, And. calyculata, And. axillaris, Kalmia fpuria, Annona alba, &c. About noon we arrived at the town, the fame little village J I paif-
I paffed by on my afcent of the river, on the banks of the little lake below Charlotia.
We were received and entertained friendlily by the Indians, the chief of the village conducting us to a grand, airy pavilion in the center of the village. It was four-fquare ; a range of pillars or polls on each fide fupporting a canopy oompofed of Palmetto leaves, woven or thatched together, whir h fliaded a level platform in the centre, that was afcended to from each fide by two fteps or flights, each about twelve inches high, and fevcn or eight feet in breadth, all covered with carpets or mats, curioufly woven of Split canes dyed of various co-lout's. Here being Seated or reclining ou;iclves, after fmoaking tobacco, bafkets of the choicest fruits were brought and Set before us.
The fields unrounding the towns and groves were plentifully Stored with Corn, Citruels, Pumkins, Squaflier., Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs, Oranges, &C*
Towards evening we took our leave, and arrived at the Stores before night, having in the courfe of the day collected a variety of curious Specimens of vegetables, feeds and roots.
The company being bufily employed in forming their packs of leather and loading the veffel, and I being eager to augment my collections during my flay here, I crolfed the river with a gang of our people, who were transporting a party of horfes to range in the meadows and plains on the fide oppofite to the trading-houfe : we carried them over in a large flat or fcow. The river was here above a mile wide, but divided into a number of Streams by
. numerous
numerous iflands, which occafioned die voyage to be very troublefome, as mod of the horfes were lately taken wild out of their ranges, and many of them young and untutored. Being under the necef-fity of palling near the points of the iflands, they grew reftlefs and impatient to land, and it was with great difficulty we kept them on board ; and at laft, when within a quarter of a mile of the oppofite fhore, pafting between two iflands, the horfes became ungovernable, and moft of them plunged into the river and forced over board one of our people. I being a pretty good iwimmer, in the midft of the buftle, and to avoid being beat over and perhaps wounded, leapt out and caught hold of the dock D' one of the horfes.   We all landed fafe on one of the iflands, about one hundred and fifty yards diftance, and the flat followed us.   After a deal of trouble and lofs of time, we got the horfes again into the fcow, where fecuring them by withs and vines, we again fit off, and foon landed fafe on the main, at a high bluff or bank of the river, where, after turning the horfes to pafture, and refting ourfelves, we fat off on a viflt to a plantation on the river, fix or eight miles diftance. On the wray thither we difcovered a bee tree, which we cut down, and regaled ourfelves on the delicious honey; leaving one of our companions to protect: the remainder until our return with a tub, to collect: it and carry it with us; and in the evening we all returned fafe with our fweet booty to the trading-houfe.
The veffel being loaded and ready to depart, I got all my collections on board. My trufty and fortunate bark I prefented to the old interpreter, Job Wiggens, often my travelling companion,
friend
friend and benefactor; and taking an affectionate" and final leave of the worthy C. M'Latche and the whole trading company, we fet fail in a neat little fchooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the laft of September. We had a pleafant and profperous voyage down the grand river St. Juan's, frequently vifiting the plantations on the banks of the river, efpecially at fuch times as oppofed by contrary winds; and according to promife did not neglect, calling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marfhall who received me fo politely, and treated me with fuch unparalleled friendship and hofpitality, when afcehding the river alone laft fpring.
We never once went out to fea during the voyage for when we had defcended die river below the Cow-ford, we entered the found by a channel between Fort George ifland and the main, through which we paffed, and continued failing between the fea coaft iflands and the main to Frederica on St. Simon's.
On my arrival at Frederica, I was again, as ufuaj, friendlily received and accommodated by the excellent John Spalding, Efq; and here learning that the honourable Henry Lawrens, Efq, had a large Ship loading at Sunburyfor Liverpool, I determined to embrace fo favourable an offer for conveying my collections to Europe ; and hearing at the fame time that Mr. Lawrens was daily expected in a veffel of his own, at his plantations on Broton Ifland and New Hope, in order to rake a loading of rice for the cargo of the fhip at Sunbury, I tranfported my collections to Broton ; where meeting with Mr. Lawrens, he generoufly permitted me to put my things on board his veffel, and gave me room with
himfelf
himfelf in the cabin; and the merchant in Liverpool, to whom the fhip was configned, being his friend and correspondent, and a friend of Dr. Fothergill's, Mr. Lawrens propofed to recommend my collections and letters to his care.
Thcffi favourable circumftances thus co-operating, after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patrons in thefe parts, I embarked on board this vefTel, and after a fhort and pleafant paffage through the found> arrived at Sunbury, from whence, after fhippingmy collections, I fat fail again for Charleflon, South Carolina; where being arrived, I fpent the feafon in Ihort excui ftons until next fpring; and during this time of my recefs I had leifure to plan my future travels, agreeably to Dr. Fothergill's inftruc-tions, and the council and advice of Dr. Chalmers of Charleflon, with other gentlemen of that city> eminent for the promotion of fcience and encouraging merit and induflry.
It was agreed that my future rout mould be directed Weil and South-Weft, into the Cherokee country and the regions of the Mufcogulges or Creeks.
X CHAP.
JOURNAL
OF THE
TRAVELS
CONTINUED.
PART II.
CHAP. I.
A. P R 1 L 2 2d, 1776, I fat off from Charlflon for the Cherokee nation, and after riding this day about twenty-five miles, arrived in the evening at Jackfonfburg, a village on Ponpon river. The next day's journey was about the fame diftance, to a public houfe or inn on the road.
The next day, early in the morning, I fat oft' again, and about noon flopped at a public houfe to dine. After the meridian heats were abated, proceeding on till evening, I obtained good quarters at a private houfe, having rode this day about thirty miles. At this plantation I obferved a large orchard of the European Mulberry tree (Morus alba) fome of which were grafted on flocks of the native Mul • berry (Morus rubra) ; thefe trees were cultivated for the purpofe of feeding filk-worms (phalaena bombyx). Having brcakfaftcd, I fat forward again.
I foon
I foon entered a high foreft, continuing die fpace of fifteen miles to the Three Sifters, a public ferry on Savanna river: the country generally very level j the foil a dark, loofe, fertile mould, on a ftratum of cinereous-coloured tenacious clay; the ground ftiaded with its native forefts, confifting of the great Black Oak, Quercus tincloria, Q; rubra, phellos, prinos, hemifpherica, Juglans nigra, J. ruftica, J. exaltata, Magnolia grandiflora, Fraxinus excelfior, Acer rubrum, Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus hctcrophylla, Morus rubra, Nyffa fylvatica, Platanus occidentalis, Tilia, Ulmus campeftris, U. fubifer, Laurus faffafras, L. Borbonia, Ilex aquifolium, Fagus fylvatica, Cornus Florida, Halefia, /Efculus pavia, Sambucus, Callicar-pa, and Stewartia malachodendron, with a variety of other trees and fhrubs. This ancient fublime foreft, frequently interfected with extenfive avenues, viftas and green lawns, opening to extenfive favannas and far diftant Rice plantations, agreeably employs the imagination, and captivates the fenfes by fcenes of magnificence and grandeur.
The gay mock-bird, vocal and joyous, mounts aloft on filvered wings, rolls over and over, then gently defcends, and prefides in the choir of the tuneful tribes.
Flaving dined at the ferry, I crofted the river into Georgia: on landing and afcending the bank, which has here a North profpect, I obferved the Dirca paluftris, growing fix or feven feet high. I rode about twelve miles further through Pine Forefts and favannas. In the evening I took up my quarters at a delightful habitation, though not a common tavern. Having ordered my horfe a fta-kle and provender, and refrefhed my fjmits with a X 2 draught
draught of cooling liquor, I betook myfelf to contemplation in the groves and lawns. Directing my fteps towards the river, I obferved in a high Pine foreft on the border of a favanna, a great number of cattle herded together, and on my nearer approach difcovered it to be a cow pen j on my coming up I was kindly faluted by my holt and his wife, who 1 found were fuperintending a number of flaves, women, boys and girls, that were milking the cows. Here were about forty milch cows and as many young calves; for in thefe Southern countries the calves run with the cows a whole year, the people milking them at the fame time. The pen, including two or three acres of ground, more or lefs, according to the flock, adjoining a rivulet or run of water, is enclofed by a fence: in this enclofure the calves are kept while the cows are out at range : a fmall part of this pen is partitioned off to receive the cows, when they come up at evening : here are feveral flakes drove into the ground, and therfe is a gate in the partition fence for a communication between the two pens. When the milkmaid has taken her fhare of milk, fhe loofes the calf, who fliips the cow, which is next morning turned out again to range.
I found thefe people, contrary to what a traveller might, perhaps, reafonably expect, from their occupation and remote fituation from the capital or any commercial town, to be civil and courteous j and though educated as it were in the woods, no Arrangers to fenfibility, and thofe moral virtues which grace and ornament the molt approved and admired characters in civil fociety.
After the veffels were filled with milk, the daily and liberal fupply of the friendly kinej and the
good
good wife, with her maids and Servants, were returning with it to the dairy; the gentleman was at lei fure to attend to my inquiries and obfervations, which he did with complaifance, and apparent pleafure. On my obferving to him chat his flock of horned cattle muft be very confiderable to afford fo many milch cows atone time, he anfwered, that he had about fifteen hundred head: " my flock is but young, having lately removed from fome diftance to this place; I found it convenient to part with mofl of my old flock and begin here anew; Heaven is pteafed to blefs my endeavours and in-duflry with fuccefs even beyond my own expectations." Yet continuing my interrogatories on this fubject: your flock I apprehend muft be very profitable, being fo convenient to the capital and fea port, in affording a vaft quantity of beef, butter and cheefe, for the market, and muft thereby contribute greatly towards your emolument: " yes, I find my flock of cattle very profitable, and I conftanly contribute towards fupplying the markets with beef; but as to the articles of butter and cheefe, I make no more than what is expended in my own houf-hokl, and I have a confiderable family of black people, who, though they are flaves, muft be fed, and cared for : thofe I have, were either chofen for their good qualities, or born in the family, and I find from long experience and obfervation, that the better they are fed, clothed and treated, the more fervice and profit we may expect to derive from their labour: in fhort, I find my flock produces no more milk, or any article of food or nouriihmenr, man what is expended to the beft advantage a-Jnongfl my family and flaves."
He added, come along with me towards the river bank, where 1 have fome men at work fquaring
X 3 Pine
Pine and Cyprefs timber for the Weft-India market; I will mow you their days work, when you will readily grant that I have reafon to acknowledge myfelf Sufficiently gratified for the little attention be-ftovved towards them. At yonder little new habitation near the bluff on the banks of the river, I have fettled my eldeft fon; it is but a few days fince he was married to a deferving young woman.
Having at length arrived near the high banks of the majeftic Savanna, we flood at the timber landing : almoil every object in our progrefs contributed to demonttrate this good man's fyftem of economy to be not only practicable but eligible ; and the flaves appeared on all fides as a crowd of witneffes to juflify his induflry, humanity and liberal fpirit.
The flaves comparatively of a gigantic ftature, fat and mufcular, were mounted on the maffrve timber logs; the regular heavy Strokes of their gleaming axes re-echoed in the deep forefts j at the lame time, contented and joyful, the footy fons of Afi-ic forgetting their bondage, in chorus fung the virtues and beneficence of their mafter in fongs of their own compofition.
The log or timber landing is a capacious open area, thexlofty pines* having been felled and cleared away for a confiderable diftance round about, near an almoft perpendicular bluff or fteep bank of the river, rifing up immediately from the water to the height of fixty or Seventy feet. The logs being dragged by timber wheels to this yard, and
• Pinus pahjftrU. Linn, the long leaved Pitch Pine, or yellow Pine.
landed
landed as near the brink of this high bank as pof-fible with fafety, and laid by the fide of each other, are rolled off and precipitated down the bank into the river, where being formed into rafts, they are conducted by flaves down to Savanna, about fifty miles below this place.
Having contemplated thefe fcenes of art and in-duftry, my venerable holt, in company with his fon, conducted me to the neat habitation, which is filiated in a fpacious airy foreft, a little diftance from the river bank, commanding a comprehenfive and varied profpect; an extenfive reach of the river in front; on the right hand a fpacious lawn or favanna ; on the left the timber yard; the vaft fertile low lands and forefts on the river upwards; and the plantations adjoining. A cool evening arrived after a fultry day.   As we approach the door, conducted by the young man, his lovely bride arrayed in native innocence and becoming modefty, with an air and fmile of grace and benignity, meets and falutes us! what a Venus! what an Adonis! faid I in filent tranfport; every action and feature feem to reveal the celeftial endowments of the mind : though a native fprightlinefs and fenfibility appear, yet virtue and difcretion direct and rule. The drefs of this beauteous fylvan queen was plain but clean, neat and elegant, all of cotton, and of her own fpinning and weaving.
Next morning early I fat forward profecuting my tour. I purfued the high road leading from Savanna to Augufta for the diftance of one hundred miles or more, and then recroffed the river at Silver Bluff, a pleafant villa, the property and feat of G. Golphin, efquire, a gentleman of very diftin-X 4 gui flied
gnifhed talents and great liberality, who pofTeffed the moft extenfive trade, connexions and influence, amongft the South and South-Weft Indian tribes, particularly with the Creeks and Chactaws; of whom I fortunately obtained letters of recommendation and credit to the principal traders refiding in the Indian towns.
Silver Bluff is a very celebrated place.   It is a confiderable height upon the Carolina fhore of the Savanna river, perhaps thirty feet higher than the low lands on the oppofite fhore, which are fubject: to be overflowed in the fpring and fall.   This fteep bank rifes perpendicularly out of the river, discovering various ftrata of earth ; the furface for a confiderable depth is a loofe fandy loam, with a mixture of fea fhells, efpecially oftreir ; the next ftratum is clay, then fand, next marl, then clays again of various colours and qualities, which laft infenfibly mix or unite with a deep ftratum of blackifh or dark ftate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, which feems to be of an aluminous or vitriolic quality, and lies in nearly horizontal lamina or ftrata of various thicknefs. We difcovered bellemnites, pyrites, marcafites and fulphureous nodules, fhining like brafs, fome Single of various forms, and others conglomerated, lying in this black flaty-like micaceous earth; as alfo flicks, limbs and trunks of trees, leaves, acorns, and their cups, all tranfmuted or changed black, hard and fhining as charcoal: we alfo fee animal fubflances, as if petrified, or what are called fharks' teeth, (dentes carcharins); but thefe heterogeneous fubflances or petrifactions are the moft abundant and confpicuous where there is a loofer kind of earth, either immediately upon this vaft ftratum of black earth, or in the divilions of
the
the laminae. The furface of the ground upon this bluff, extends a mile and a half or two miles on the river, and is from an half mile to a mile in breadth, nearly level, and a good fertile foil; as is evident from the vaft Oaks, Hickory, Mulberry, Black walnut and other trees and ihrubs, which are left ftanding in the old fields which are fpread abroad to a great diftance; and difcovers various monuments and veftiges of the refidence of the ancients; as Indian conical mounts,terraces,areas, &c. as well as remains or traces of fortrelfes of regular formation, as if conftrufted after the modes of European military architects, which are fuppofed to be ancient camps of the Spaniards who formerly fixed themfelves at this place in hopes of finding filver.
But perhaps Mr. Golphin's buildings and improvements will prove to be the foundation of monuments of infinitely greater celebrity and permanency than either of the preceding eftablifhments.
The place which at this day is called fort Moore, is a Stupendous bluff, or high perpendicular bank of earth, rifing out of the river on the Carolina fhore, perhaps ninety or one hundred feet above the common furface of the water; and exhibits a fingular and pleafing Spectacle to a ft ranger, efpecially from the oppofite fhore, or as we pafs up or down the river, prefenting a view of prodigious walls of party-coloured earths, chiefly clays and marl of various colours, as brown, red, yellow, blue, purple, white, &c. in horizontal ftrata, one over the other.
Waiting for the ferry boat to carry me over, I walked almoft round the under fide of the bluff, betwixt its fteep wall and the water of the river,
which
which glided rapidly under my feet. I came to the carcafe of a calf, which the people told me had fallen down from the edge of the precipice above, being invited too far by grafs and fweet herbs, which they fay frequently happens at this place. In early times, the Carolinians had a fort, and kept a good garrifon here as a frontier and Indian trading poft; but Augufta fuperfeding it, this place was dif-mantled: and fince that time, which probably cannot exceed thirty years, the river hath fo much encroached upon the Carolina fhore, that its bed now lies where the fite of the fort then was : indeed fome told me that the oppofite Georgia fhore, where there is now a fine houfe and corn field, occupies the place.
The fite of Augufta is perhaps the mofl delightful and eligible of any in Georgia for a city. An extenfive level plain on the banks of a fine navigable river, which has its numerous fources in the Cherokee mountains, a fruitful and temperate region, whence, after roving and winding about thofe fertile heights, they meander through a fertile hilly country, and one after another combine in forming the Tugilo and Broad rivers, and then the famous Savanna river; thence they continue near an hundred miles more, following its meanders and falls over the cataracts at Augufta, which crofs the river at the upper end of the town. Thefe falls are four or five feet perpendicular height in the fummer feafon when the river is low. From thefe cataracts upwards, this river with all its tributaries, as Broad river, Little river, Tugilo, &c. is one continued rapid, with fome fhort intervals of ftill water, navigable for canoes. But from Augufta downwards to the ocean, a diftance of near three hundred miles 1 by
by water, the Savanna uninterruptedly flows with a gentle meandring courfe, and is navigable for veffels of twenty or thirty tons burthen to Savanna, where fhips of three hundred tons lie in a capacious and fecure harbour.
Augufta thus feated at the head of navigation, and juft below the conflux of feveral of its moft confiderable branches, without a competitor, commands the trade and commerce of vaft fruitful regions above it, and from every fide to a great diftance; and 1 do not hefitate to pronounce as my opinion, will very foon become the metropolis of Georgia.*
1 chofe to take this route up Savanna river, in preference to the ftraight and Shorter road from Charlefton to the Cherokee country by fort Ninety Six,becaufe by keeping near this great river, I had frequent opportunities of vifiting its fteep banks, vaft fwamps and low grounds; and had the advantage, without great delay, or deviating from the main high road, of obferving the various foils and Situations of the countries through which this famous river purfues its courfe, and of examining their various productions, mineral, vegetable and animal: whereas had I purfued the great trading path by Ninety fix, Ifhould have been led over a high, dry, Sandy and gravelly ridge, and a great part of the diftance an old fettled or reforted part of the country, and confequently void of the varieties of original or novel productions of nature.
Before I leave Augufta, I fhall recite a curious phenomenon, which may furnifh ample matter for
* A few years after the above remark, the feat of government was re-poved i'rum Savanna to Auguita.
philofophical
philofophlcal difculTion to the curious naturalifts. On the Georgia fide of the river, about fifteen miles below Silver Bluff, the high road croffes a ridge of high Swelling hills of uncommon elevation, and perhaps feventy feet higher than the furface of the river. Thefe hills, from three feet below the common vegetative furface, to the depth of twenty or thirty feet, are compofed entirely of foffil oyfter fhells, internally of the colour and confiftency of clear white marble: the fhells are of incredible magnitude, generally fifteen or twenty inches in length, from fix to eight wide, and two to four in thickncfs, and their hollows fufficient to receive an ordinary man's foot: they appear all to have been opened before the period of petrifaction, a tranfmu-tation they feem evidently to have fuffered ; they are undoubtedly very ancient or perhaps antidelu-vian. The adjacent inhabitants burn them to lime for building, for which purpofe they ferve very well; and would undoubtedly afford an excellent manure when their lands require it, thefe hills being now remarkably fertile. The heaps of fnells lie upon a ftratum of a yellowifh fiindy mould, of feveral feet in depth, upon a foundation of foft white rocks, that has the outward appearance of free-ftone, but on ftricr. examination is really a teflaceous concrete or compofition of fand and pulverifed fea fhells: in fhort, this teftaceous rock approaches near in quality and appearance to the Bahama or Bermudian white rock.
Thefe hills are ftiaded with glorious Magnolia grandiflora, Morus rubra, Tilia, Quercus, Ufirms, Juglans, &c. with aromatic groves of fragrant Callicanthus Floridus, Rhododendron ferrugineum, JLaurus Indica, &c, TEfculus pavia, Cornus Flo-3 rida,
rida, Azalea coccinea, Philadelphus inodorus and others; but who would have expected to fee the Dirca paluhYis and Dodecatheon meadea grow in abundance in this hot climate ! it is true they are feen in the rich and deep fhaded vales, between the hills and North expofure ; but they attain to a degree of magnitude and fplendour never feen in Pennfylvania.
CHAP.
CHAP. ir.
After conferring with gentlemen in Augufta^ converfant in Indian affairs, concerning my future travels in thofe diftant, unexplored regions, and obtaining letters to their agents in the Indian territories, I fet off, proceeding for Fort James Dartmouth, at the confluence of Broad River with Savanna, the road leading me near the banks of the river for the diftance of near thirty miles, crofting; two or three of its confiderable branches, befides rivulets and fmaller brooks. The furface of the land uneven, by means of ridges or chains of fwell-ing hills and eorrefponding vales,with level downs ; the foil a loofe, grayifh-brown loamy mould on the hills, but darker and more cohefive and humid in the vales and downs; this fuperficial, vegetative earth, covers a deep ftratum of very tenacious yellowifh clay : the downs afford grafs and various herbage; the vales and hills, foreft trees and fhrubs of various tribes, i. e. Quercus tin&oria, Q^alba, Q^ rubra, Q^ lobata,Acer rubrum, A. Saccharinum, A.glaucum, Morus rubra,Gleditfia triacanthus, Juglans hickory, various fpecies, Quercus phillos, Quer. dentata, L heniifpherica, Quercus aquatica, or Maryland Water Oak, Ulmus fylvatica, Liriodendron, Liquid-amber, Diofpyros, Cornus Florida, Prunus In-dica, Prunus padus and iEfculus pavia ; and, near water courfes in the vales, Stewartia malachoden-dron, Halefia, TEfculus fylvatica, Styrax, Carpinus, Magnolia acuminata, Mag. tripetala, Mag. auri-culata, Azalea, dec. The rich humid lands in the vales bordering on creeks and bafes of the hills, likewife produce various trees, fhrubs and plants, as Cercis,Corylus, Ptelea, Evonimus, Philadelphus
inodorus,
inodorus, Staphylea trifoliata, Chionanthus, Ha-mamelis, Callicarpa, Sambucus, Cornus alba, Viburnum dentatum, Spirea opulifolia, Cornus fan-guinea, Cephalandms, &c. and of herbacere a vaft variety and abundance, as Verbeftna, Rudbeckia, Phafeolus, Tripfacum, Aconitum napellus, Delphinium, Angelica lucida, Tradefcantia, Trillium fef-file, Trillium cernuum, Acfsea, Chelone, Glycine apios, Convalliaria racemofa, Mediola, Carduus, Bidens frondofa, Arum triphyllum, Coreopfis alter-nifolia, Circasa, Commelina, After, Solidago, F.u-patorium, Helianthus, and Silphium, together with a variety of other tribes and fpecies new to me. In the evening I arrived at Little river, and took up my quarters at a public houfe on its banks, near its confluence with the Savanna. This is a beautiful rapid water, about fifty yards over. On a branch of this river is fituatedthe town of W rightfborough.
Near the ford, on the banks of this river, I firft; obferved a very curious fhrub, a beautiful evergreen, which appears to be allied to the Rhododendron, though the feed veffels feem to bear more the charafteriftics of the Kalmia. This fhrub grows in copfes or little groves, in open, high fituat'ions, where trees of large growth are but fcatteringly planted ; many limple ftems arife together from a root or fource erect, four, five and fix feet high; their limbs or branches, which are produced towards the top of the ftems, alfo (land nearly erect, lightly diverging from the main ftems, which are furnilhed with moderately large ovate pointed in-tire leaves, of a pale or yellowilh green colour; thefe leaves are of a firm, compact texture, both fur faces fmooth and Shining, and ftand nearly erect
upon
upon fhort petioles; the branches terminate -with long, loofe panicles or fpikes of white flowers, whofe Segments are five, long and narrow.
I arofe early next morning and continued my journey for Fort James. This day's progrefs was agreeably entertaining, from the novelty and variety of objects and views: the wild country now almoft depopulated, vaft forefts, expanfive plains and detached groves; then chains of hills whofe gravelly, dry, barren Summits prefent detached piles of rocks, which delude and flatter the hopes and expectations of the folitary traveller, full fure of hofpitable habitations \ heaps of white, gnawed bones of the ancient buffaloe, elk and deer, indif-criminately mixed with thofe of men, half grown over with mofs, altogether, exhibit fcenes of uncultivated nature, on reflection, perhaps, rather difagreeable to a mind of delicate feelings and fen-fibility, fince fome of theic objects recognize paft tranfactions and events, perhaps not altogether re-concileable to justice and humanity.
Flow harmonious and Sweetly murmur the purling rills and fleeting brooks, roving along the fliadowy vales, palling throgh dark, Subterranean caverns, or dafhing over fteep rocky precipices, their cold, humid banks condenflng the volatile vapours, which falling coalefce in crystalline drops, on the leaves and elaftic twigs of the aromatic ihrubs and incarnate flowers! In thefe cool, fequettered, rocky vales, we behold the following celebrated beauties of the hills, fragrant Calycanchus, blulh-ing Rhododendron ferrugineuffl, delicate Philadelphus inodorus, which difplays the white wavy mantle, with the fky robed Delphinium, perfumed
Convallaria
Cohvallaria and fiery Azalea, flaming on the af-cending hills or wavy furface of the gliding brooks. The epithet fiery, I annex to this moft celebrated fpecies of Azalea, as being expreflive of the appearance of its flowers, which are in general of the colour of the fineft red lead, orange and bright gold, as well as yellow and cream colour; thefe various fpler/did colours are not only in feparate plants, but frequently all the varieties and fhades are feen in feparate branches on the fame plant; and the clutters of the bloflbms cover the fhrubs in fuch incredible profufion on the hill fides, that fuddenly opening to view from dark fhades, we are alarmed with the apprehenfion of the hill being frt on fire. This is certainly the moft gay and brilliant flowering fhrub yet known: it grows in little copies or clumps, in open forefts as well as dark groves, with other fhrubs, and about the bafes of hills, efpecially where brooks and rivulets wind about them : the bufhes feldom rife above fix or feven feet in height, and generally but three, four and five, but branch and fpread their tops greatly; the young leaves are but very fmall whilft the fhrubs are in bloom, from which circumftance the plant exhibits a greater fliow of fplendour.
Towards evening I croffed Broad river at a good ford, jult above its confluence with the Savanna, and arrived at Fort James, which is a four fquare itockade, with faliant baftions at each angle, mounted with a block-houfe, where are fome fwivel guns, one ftory higher than the curtains, which are pierced with loop-holes, breaft high, and defended by fmall arms. The fortification enclofes about an a-cre of ground, where is the governor's or commandant's houfe, a good building, which is flanked on each fide by buildings for the officers and barracks Y for
for the garrifon, confifting of fifty ranges, including officers, each having a good horfe well equipt, a rifle, two dragoon piftols, and a hanger, befides a powder horn, fhot pouch and tomahawk. The fort ftands on an eminence in the forks between the Savanna and Broad rivers, about one mile above Fort Charlotta, which is fituated near the banks of the Savanna, on the Carolina fide.   Fort James is fituated nearly at an equal diftance from the banks of the two rivers, and from the extreme point of the find that feparates them.   The point or peninfula between the two rivers, for the diftance of two miles back from the fort, is laid out for a town, by the name of Dartmouth, in honour to the earl of Dartmouth, who, by his intereft and influence in the Britifh councils, obtained from the king a grant and powers in favour of the Indian trading company of Georgia, to treat with the Creeks for the ceftion of a quantity of land fufficient to difcharge their debts to the traders, for the fecurity and defence of which territory this fortrefs was eftabliihed.
This territory, called the New Purchafe, contains about two millions of acres, lying upon the head of Great Ogechee, between the banks of the Savanna and Alatamaha, touching on the Ocone, and taking within its precincts all the waters of Broad and Little rivers ; comprehending a body of excellent and fertile land, well watered by innumerable rivers, creeks and brooks.
I made a little excurfion up the Savanna river, four or five miles above the fort, with the furgeon of the garrifon, who was fo polite as to attend me to fhow me fome remarkable Indian monuments, which are worthy of every travellers notice. Thefe wonderful labours of the ancients hand in a level 2 plain,
£lain, very near the bank of the river, now twenty or thirty1 yards from it. They ccnflft of conical mounts of earth and four fquare terraces, The great mount is in the form of a cone, about forty or fifty feet high, and the circumference of its bafe two or three hundred yards, entirely compofed of tlit loamy rich earth of the low grounds: the top or apex is flat: a fpiral path or track leading from the ground up to the top is ftill viftble, where now grows a large, beautiful fpreading lied Cedar ( Ju-niperus Americana): there appear four niches, excavated out of the fides of this hill, at different heights from the bafe, fronting the four cardinal points j thefe niches or fentry boxes are entered into from the winding path, and feem to have been meant for refting places or look-outs. The circumjacent level grounds are cleared and planted with Indian Corn at prefent; and I think the proprietor of thefe lands, who accompanied us to this place, faid that the mount itfelf yielded above one hundred bufhels in one feafon : the land hereabouts is indeed exceeding fertile and productive.
It is altogether unknown to us, what could have induced the Indians to raife fuch a heap of earth in this place, the ground for a great fpace around being fubject. to inundations, at leaft once a year, hom which circumftance we may conclude they had no town or fettled habitations here. Some imagine thefe tumuli were conftructed for look-cut towers. It isreafonable to fuppofe, however, that they were to ferve fome important purpofe in thofe days, as they were public works, and would have required the united labour and attention of a whole Nation, circumftanced as they were, to have conducted one of them almoft in an age.   There are
Y a feveral
feveral lefs ones round about the great one, with fome very large tetragon terraces on each fide, near one hundred yards in length, and their furface four, fix, eight and ten feet above the ground on which they Hand.
We may however hazard a conjecture; that as there is generally a narrow fpace or ridge in thefe low lands, immediately bordering on the river's bank, which is eight or ten feet higher than the adjoining low grounds, that lie betwixt the ftream and the heights of the adjacent main land, which, when the river overflows its banks, are many feet under water, when, at the fame time, this ridge dn the river bank is above water and dry, and at fuch inundations appears as an ifland in the river; thefe people might have had a town on this ridge, and this mount raifed for a retreat and refuge in cafe of inundations, which are unforefeen and furprize them very fuddenly, fpring and autumn.
Having finilhed my collections and obfervations, which were extended to a confiderable diftance in tlie environs of Dartmouth 3 May 10th fat off a-gain, proceeding for Keowe; rode fix or eight miles up the river above the fort; croffed over into Carolina and foon got into the high road ; but had not proceeded far, when I Was furprifed by a fudden Very heavy fhower of rain, attended with terrific thunder, but luckily found prefent fhelter at a farm houfe, where I continued above an hour before its fury abated ; when I proceeded again, and not-Withftanding this detention and obstacles in confe-quence of the heavy rains in raifing the creeks, travelled thirty five miles, and arrived in the evening at Mr. Cameron's, deputy commiffary for Indian affairs for the Cherokee nation, to whom I was recommended
commended by letters from the honourable John Stewart, fuperintendant, rending at Charlefton, mentioning my bufinefs in the Cherokee country.
The road this day had led me over an uneven country, its furface undulated by ridges or chains of hills, fometimes rough with rocks and Hones, yet generally productive of foreits, with a variety of vegetables of inferior growth, i. e. Quercus, various fpecies, Juglans hickory, varieties, Lirioden-dron, Fraxinus, Fagus fylvatica, Fagus caftanea, Fagus pumila, f. Chinkapin, Nyfla Sylvatica, Acer rubrum, /Efculus fylvatica, Magnolia acuminata, Magnolia tripetala, Andromeda arborea, Hopea tincWia,iEfculus pavia, Viburnum, Azalea flammea and other fpecies ; Hydrangea, Calycanthus, &c.
The feafon being uncommonly wet, almoft daily fhowers of rain, frequently attended with tremendous thunder, rendered :ravelling difagrceable, toilfome and hazardous, through an uninhabited wikiernefs, abounding with rivers and brooks. I was prevailed upon by Mr. Cameron to ftay at his houfe a few days, until the rains ceafed and. the rivers could be more eafily forded.
The Angelica lucida or nondo grows here in a-bundance: its aromatic carminative root is in tnfte much like that of the Ginfeng (Panax) though more of the tafte and fcent of Anifc feed: it is in high eitimation with the Indians as well as white inhabitants, and fells at a great price to the Southern Indians of Florida, who dwell near the fea coaft where this never grows fpontaneoufly. I obferved a charming fpecies of Malva, having panicles of large fplendid purple or deep blue flowers; and rn-other fpecies of Malva, very fingular indeed, for Y 3 it
it is a climber; the leaves are broad, which, with the whole plant, are hoary; the flowers are very fmall, and of a greenifh white. Here grows alfo iq abundance a beautiful fpecies of Delphinium; the flowers differ in no refpect from thofe of the common branching Larkfpur of the gardens ; they are of a fine deep blue colour, and difpofed in long iparfed fpikes; die leaves are compound, almoft linear, but the fegments not fo fine cut as thofe of the garden Larkfpur.
The weather now fettled and fair, I prepared to proceed for Fort Prince George Keowc, having obtained of the agreeable and liberal Mr, Cameron, ample teftirnonials and letters of recommendation to the traders in the nation: this gentleman alfo very obligingly fent a young Negro flave to afiift and pilot me as far as Senica,
May 15th I left Lough-abber, the feat of Mr. Cameron. In the courfe of this day's journey I croffed feveial rivers and brooks, all branches of the Savanna, now called Keowe, above its confluence with the Tugilo, the Weft main branch. The face of the country uneven, by means of ridges of hills and water courfes; the hills fomewhat rocky near their fummits and at the banks of rivers and creeks, but very fertile, as there is a good depth of a loofe dark and moft vegetative mould, on a ftratum of reddifh brown tenacious clay, and fometimes a deep ftratum of dufky brown marl. The vegetable productions obferved during this day's progrefs, were generally the fame as already recited fince leaving Dartmouth. The flaming Azaleas abound, and illuminate the hill fides; and a new and fingularly beautiful fpecies of iEfculus pavia, fituated above thcm; towards the fummits of thefe low hills. This
confpicuoufiy
confpicuoufly beautiful flowering fhrub, grows to the height of five or fix feet; many divergent crooked ftems arife together from a root or fource, which dividing their branches, wreath about every way, after a very irregular and free order; the exterior fubdivifions of thefe limbs terminate with a heavy clufter or thyrfis of rofe or pink coloured flowers, fpeckled or variegated with crimfon, larger, more expanfive and regular in their formation than thofe of the Pavia; and thefe heavy fpikes of flowers, charged with the morning dews, bend the flender flexile ftems to the ground : the compound leaves are of the configuration of thofe of the Pavia, but broader and their veins more prominent. The fhrubs growing about the tops of the more barren graffy hills, where large trees are few and fcattered, ftiow themfelves to great advantage, and make a fine appearance.
There are abundance of Grape vines (Vitis vini-fera) which ramble and fpread themfelves over the fhrubs and low trees in thefe fituations, and I was affured produce fruit affording an excellent juice : the giapes are of various colours when ripe, of the figure and about the fize of the European wine grapes. Arrived at Sinica in the evening, after travelling forty five miles through an uninhabited wildernefs.
The Cherokee town of Sinica is a very refpecta-ble fettlemcnt, fkuated on the Eaft bank of the Ke-owe river, though fhe greateft number of Indian habitations are on the oppofite fhore, where like-wife ftands the council-Jioufe, in a level plain betwixt the river and the range of beautiful lofty hills, which rife magnificently, and feem to bend over the green plains and the river: but the chief's houfe, Y 4 witli
•with thofe of the traders, and fome Indian dwellings, are feated on the afcent of the heights on the oppofite Ihore. This fituation in point of profpect far excels the ether, as it overlooks the whole fet-tlement, the extenfive fruitful plains on the river above and below, and the plantations of the inhabitants, commanding a molt comprehensive diversified view of the oppofite elevations.
Sinica is a new town rebuilt fince the late Indian war, when the Cherokees were vanquiflied and compelled to Sue for peace, by general Middleton, commander of the Carolinian auxiliaries acting a-gainft them, when the lower and middle fettlements were broken up : the number of inhabitants are now estimated at about five hundred, and they are able to mutter about one hundred warriors.
Next day I left Sinica alone, and after riding about fixteen miles, chiefly through high forefts of excellent land at a little diftance from the river, arrived in the evening at fort Prince George Keowe,
Keowe is a moft charming fituation, and the adjacent heights are naturally lo formed and difpofed, as with little expence of military architecture to be rendered almoft impregnable. It lies in a fertile vale, at this feafon enamelled with the incarnate fragrant ftrawberries and blooming plants, through which the beautiful river meanders, fometimes gently flowing, but more frequently agitated, gliding Swiftly between the fruitful ftrawberry banks, environed at various diftances by high hills and mountains, fome rifing boldly almoft upright upon the verge of the expanfive lawn, fo as to overlook and ftiadow it, whilft others more lofty, Superb, mifty ?.nd blue, majeltically mount far above.
The.
The evening ftill and calm, all fiknt and peaceable, a vivifying gentle breeze continually wafted from the fragrant ftrawberry fields, and aromatic Calycanthean groves on the furrounding heights; the wary moor fowl thundering in the diftant echoing hills: how the groves and hills ring with the fhrill perpetual voice of the whip-poor-will!
Abandoned as my fituation now was, yet thank heaven many objects met together at this time, ancj. confpired to conciliate, and in fome degree com-pofe my mind, heretofore fomewhat dejected and unharmonized : all alone in a wild Indian country, a thoufand miles from my native land, and a vaft diftance from any fettlements of white people. It is true, here were fome of my own colour, yet they were ftrangers; and though friendly and hofpitable, their manners and cuftoms of living fo different from what I had been accuftomed to, adminifterecj but little to my confolation : fome hundred miles yet to travel; the lavage vindictive inhabitants lately ill-treated by the frontier Virginians ; blood being fpilt between them and die injury not yet wiped away by formal treaty : the Cherokees extremely jealous of white people travelling about their mountains, efpecially if they fhould be feen peeping in amongft the rocks, or digging up their earth.
The vale of Keowe is feven or eight miles in ex-rent, that is, from the little town of Kulfage* about a mile above, thence down the river fix or feven miles, where a high ridge of hills on each fide of the river almoft terminates the vale, but opens again pelow the narrow ridge, and continues ten or twelve
* Sugar Town.
mile?.
miles down to Sinica, and in width one and two miles. This fertile vale within the remembrance of fome old traders with whom I converfed, was one continued fettlement; the Swelling fides of the adjoining hills were then covered with habitations, and the rich level grounds beneath lying on the river, was cultivated and planted, which now exhibit a very different fpeflacle, humiliating indeed to the prefent generation, the pofleriry and feeble remains of the once potent and renowned Cherokees: the vefliges of the ancient Indian dwellings nre yet vifible on the feet of the hills bordering and fronting on the vale, fuch as polls or pillars of their habitations, &x.
There are feveral Indian mounts or tumuli, and terraces, monuments of the ancients, at the old fite of Keowe, near the fort Prince George, but no Indian habitations at prefent; and here are feveral dwellings inhabited by white people concerned in the Indian trade: Mr. D. Homes is the principal trader here.
The old fort Prince George now bears no marks of a fortrefs, but ferves for a trading houfe.
CHAP,
CHAP. III.
I waited two or three days at this poll: expecting the return of an Indian who was ovS hunting. This man was recommended to me as a Suitable perfon for a protector and guide to the Indian fettlements over the hills; but upon information that he would not be in Shortly, and there being no other perfon Suitable for the purpofe, rather than be detained, and perhaps thereby frmtrated in my purpofes, I determined to fet off alone and run all rifks.
I crolTed the river at a good ford juft below the old fort. The river here is near one hundred yards over. After an agreeable progrefs for about two miles over delightful Strawberry plains, and gently Swelling green hills, I began to afcend more Steep and rocky ridges. Plaving gained a very considerable elevation, looking around, I enjoyed a very comprehenfive and delightful view : Keowe which I had but juft loft fight of, appeared again*, and the ferpentine river Speeding through the lucid green plain apparently juft under my feet. After obferving this delightful landfcape, I continued on again three or four miles, keeping the trading path, which led me over uneven rocky land, crofling rivulets and brooks, and rapidly deicending over rocky precipices; when I came into a charming vale, em-bellifhed with a delightful glittering river, which meandered through it, and crolfed my road. On my left hand, upon the graffy bafes of the rifing hills, appeared the remains of a town of the ancients, as
the tumuli, terraces, potts or pillars, old Peach and Plumb or chards, &;c. Sufficiently teftify. Thefe vales and {welling tales of the Surrounding hills, afford vaft crops of excellent grafs and herbage fit for pafturage and hay; of the latter, Plantago Vir-ginica, Sanguiforba, Geum, Fragaria, &c. The Panax quinquefolium, or Ginfeng, now appears plentifully on the North expofure of the hill, growing out of the rich mellow humid earth amongft the ftones or fragments of rocks.
Having crofted the vales, I began to afcend again the more lofty ridges of hills; then continued about eight miles over more gentle pyramidal hills, narrow vales and lawns, the foil exceedingly fertile, producing lofty forefts and odoriferous groves of Calycanthus, near the banks of rivers, with Halefia, Philadelphus inodorus,Rhododendron ferrugineum, Azalea, Stewartia montana*, fol. ovatis acuminatis ferratis, nor, niveo, ftaminum corona fulgida, pericarp, pomum exfuccum,apice acuminatodehifcens, Cornus Florida, Styrax, all in full bloom, and decorated with the following fweet roving climbers, Bignonia fempervirens, Big. crucigera, Lonicera fempervirens, Rofa panicuiata, &c.
Now at once the mount divide ; and difclofe to view the ample Occonne vale, encircled by a wreath of uniform hills ; their Swelling bafes clad in cheerful verdure, over which, iifuing from between the mountains, plays along a glittering river, meandering through the meadows. Crofling thefe at the upper end of the vale, I began to afcend the Occonne mountain.   On the foot of the hills are
* Thif, is a new fpecics of Stcv/arti*, unknown to the European botanifc?, jkr.4 not mentioned in any cm|p|MS.
ruins
ruins of the ancient Occonne town* The firft ftep after leaving the verdant beds of the hills, was a very high rocky chain of pointed hills, extremely well timbered with the following trees : Quercus tindtoria, Qucrc. alba, Qucrc. rubra, Fraxinus ex-celfior, Juglans hickory various fpecies, Ulmus, Tilia, Acer faccharinum, Morus, Juglans nigra, Juglans alba, Annona glabra, Robinia pfeudacacia, Magnolia acuminata, TEfculus fylvatica, with many more, particularly a fpecies of Robinia new to me, though perhaps the fame as figured and flightly defcribed by Catefby in his Nat. Hift. Carol. This beautiful flowering tree grows twenty and thirty feet high, with a crooked leaning trunk ; the branches fpread greatly, and wreath about, fome almoft touching the ground; however there appears a fingular pleafing wildnefs and freedom in its manner of growth; the flender fubdivifions of the branches terminate with heavy compound panicles of rofe or pink coloured flowers, amidft a wreath of beautiful pinnated leaves.
My next flight was up a very high peak, to the top of the Occonne mountain, where I r cited j and turning about, found that I was now in a very elevated fituation, from whence I enjoyed a view in-expreflibly magnificent and comprehenfive. The mountainous wildernefs which I had lately traversed, down to the region of Augufta, appearing regularly undulated as the great ocean after a tempelt; the undulations gradually depreffing, yet perfectly regular, as the fquama of fifh, or imbrications of tile on a roof: the neareft ground to me of a perfect full green ; next more glaucous j and laStly almoft blue as the ether with which the
moli
334
travels in
moft diftant curve of the horizon feemed to fJC blended.
My imagination thus wholly engaged in the contemplation of this magnificent landfcape, infinitely varied, and without bound, I was almoft infenfiWe or regardlefs of the charming objects more within my reach: a new fpecies of Rhododendron fore-moft in the affembly of mountain beauties; next the flaming Azalea, Kalmia latifolia, incarnate Robinia, fnowy mantled Philadelphus inodorus, perfumed Caiycantfius, &C.
This fpecies of Rhododendron grows fix or feven feet high; many nearly erect ftems arife together from the root, forming a group or coppice. The leaves are three or four inches in length, of an oblong figure, broadeft toward the extremitv, and terminating with an obtufe point; their upper furface of a deep green and polifhed; but the nether furface of a rufty iron colour, which feems to be effected by innumerable minute reddifh veficlcs,. beneath a fine fhort downy pubefcence ; the numerous flexile branches terminate with a loofe fpiked raceme, or clufter of large deep role coloured flowers, each flower being affixed in the diffufed clufter of a long peduncle, which, with the whole plant, pofiefles an agreeable perfume.
After being recovered of the fatigue and labour in afcending the mountain, I began again to pro-fecute my talk, proceeding through a fhady foreft; and foon after gained the moft elevated creft of the Occonne mountain, and then began to defcend the other fide; the winding rough road carrying me over rocky hills and levels, fhaded by incomparable forcfts,.*the foil exceedingly rich, and of an excel-
lent quality for the production of every vegetable tinted to the climate, and Teeming peculiarly adapted for the cultivation of Vines (Vitis vinifera), Olives (Olea Europea),the Almond tree (Amyg-dalus communis), Fig (Ficus carica), and perhaps the Pomgranate, (Punica granatum), as well as Peaches (Amyg. Perfica), Prunus, Pyrus, of every variety.   1 palled again fteep rocky afcents, and then rich levels, where grew many trees and plants common in Pennfylvania, New-York and even Canada, as Pinus ftrobus, Pin. fylveftris, Pin. abies, Acer faccharinum, Acer ftriatum, f. Penfylvani-cum, Populus tremula, Betula nigra, Juglans alba, &c. ; but what feems remarkable, the yellow Jef-farnine (Bignonia fempervirens), which is killed by a very {light froft in the open air in Pennfylvania, here, on the fummits of the Cherokee mountains aftbeiates with the Canadian vegetables, and appears roving with them in perfect bloom and gaiety; as likewife Halefia diptera, and Flak tetraptera, mountain Stewartia, Styrax, Ptelea, iEfculus pavia; but all thefe bear our hardeft frofts in Pennfylvania. Now I enter a charming narrow vale, through which flows a rapid large creek, on whofe banks are happily affociated the fhrubs already recited, together with the following; Staphylasa, Euoni-mus Americana, Hamamelis, Azalea, various fpecies, Ariftolochia frutefcens, f. odoratiftima, which rambles over the trees and fhrubs on the prolific banks of thefe mountain brooks.   PafTed through magnificent high forefts, and then came upon the borders of an ample meadow on the left, embroidered by the fhade of a high circular amphitheatre of hills, the circular ridges rifing magnificently one over the other.   On the green turfy bafes of thefe afcents appear the ruins of a town of the ancients.
The
The upper end of this fpacious green plain is divided by a promontory or fpur of the ridges before me, which projects into it: my road led inr up into an opening of the afcents through which the glittering brook which v/atered the meadows ran rapidly down, dafliing and roaring over high rocky fteps. Continued yet afcending until I gained the top of an elevated rocky ridge, when appeared before me a gap or opening between other yet more lofty afcents, through which continued as the rough rocky road led me, clofe by the winding banks of a large rapid brook, which ar. length turning to the left, pouring down rocky precipices, glided oft* through dark groves and high forefts, conveying ft reams of fertility and pleafure to the fields below.
The furface of the land now for three or four miles is level, yet uneven, occafioned by natural mounds or rocky knobs, but covered with a good ftaple of rich earth, which affords forefts of timber trees and ffirubs. After this, gently defcending again, I travelled fome miles over a varied fituation of ground, exhibiting views of grand forefts, dark detached groves, vales and meadows, as heretofore, and producing the like vegetable and other works of nature ; the meadows affording exuberant paf-tufage for cattle, and the bafes of the encircling hills, flowering plants, and fruitful ftrawberry beds; obferved frequently ruins of the habitations or villages of the ancients. Crolfed a delightful river* the main branch of Tugilo,when I began to afcend again, firft over fwelling turfy ridges, varied with groves of ftately foreft trees; then afcending again more deep graffy hill fides, refted on the top of mount Magnolia, which appeared to rrie to be the higheft ridge of the Cherokee mountains, which
feparate
feparate the waters of Savanna river from thofe of the Tanafe or greater main branch of the Cherokee river.  This running rapidly a North-Well: courfe through the mountains, is joined from the North-Eaft by the Holftein; thence taking a Weft courfe yet amongft the mountains, receiving into it from either hand many large rivers, leaves the mountains immediately after being joined by a large river from the Eaft, becomes a mighty river by the name of Hogehege, thence meanders many hundred miles through a vaft country confifting of forefts, meadows, groves, expanfive favannas, fields and fwelling hills, moft fertile and delightful, flows into the beautiful Ohio, and in conjunction with its tranfparent waters, becomes tributary to the fovereign Mifliflippi,
This exalted peak I named mount Magnolia, from a new and beautiful fpecies of that celebrated family of flowering trees, which here, at the caf-cades of Falling Creek, grows in a high degree of perfection: I had, indeed noticed, this curious tree feveral times before, particularly on the high ridges betwixt Sinica and Keowe, and on afcending the firft mountain after leaving Keowe, when 1 obferved it in flower, but here it flourifhes and commands our attention.
This tree,* or perhaps rather fhrub, rifes eighteen to thirty feet in height; there are ufually many ftems from a root or fource, which lean a little, or ftightly tliverge from each other, in this refpect. imitating the Magnolia tripetala; the crooked wreathing branches arifing and fubdiving from the main ftem without order or uniformity,
* Magnolia aurlculata.
z
their
their extremities turn upwards, producing a vepy large roiaceous, perfectly white, double or polype-ralous flower,which is of a moft fragrant fcent; tills fine flower fits in the centre of a radius of very large leaves, which are of a fingular figure, Somewhat lanceolate, but broad towards their extremities, terminating with an acuminated point, and backwards they attenuate and become very narrow towards their bafes, terminating that way with two long, narrow ears or lappets, one on each fide of the in-fcrtion of the petiole ; the leaves have only fhort footftalks, fitting very near each other, at the extremities of the floriferous branches, from whence they fpread themfelves after a regular order, like the fpokes of a wheel, their margins touching or lightly lapping upon each other, form an expanfive umbrella fupetbly crowned or crefted with the fragrant flower, reprefenting a white plume ; the bloflbm is Succeeded by a very large crimfon cone or ftrobile, containing a great number of fcarlet berries, which, when ripe, fpring from their cells and are for a time fufpended by a white filky web or thread. The leaves of thofe trees which grow in a rich, light humid foil, when fully expanded and at maturity, are frequently above two feet in length and fix or eight inches where broadefi. I difcovered in the maritime parts of Georgia, particularly on the banks of the Alatamaha, anodier new fpecies of Magnolia, Whole leaves were nearly of the figure of thofe of this tree, but they were much lets in fize, not more than fix or feven inches in length, and the ftrobile very fmall, oblong, fharp pointed andof aline deep crimfon colour; butl never faw the flower. Thefe trees grow itraight and erect, thirty feet or more in height, and of a fharp conical form, much refembling the Cucumber tree (Mag. acuminata) in figure.
The
The day being remarkably warm and Sultry together with the labour and fatigue of afcending the mountains, made me very thirfty and in fome degree funk my fpirits. Now paft mid-day, I fought a cool (haded retreat, where was water for refrefhment and grazing for my horfe, my faithful (lave and only companion. After proceeding a little farther, defccnding the other fide of the mountain, I perceived at fome diltance before me, on my right hand, a level plain fupporting a grand high foreft and groves: the nearer I approached, my fteps were the more accelerated from the flattering profpect opening to view, I now entered upon the verge of the dark foreft, charming folitude! as I advanced through the animating fhades, obferved on the farther graffy verge a fhady grove; thither I directed my fteps. On approaching thefe ihades, between the ftately columns of the ftiperb foreft trees, prefented to view, rufliing from rocky precipices under the fhade of the penfile hills, the unparalleled cafcade of Falling Creek, rolling and leaping off the rocks: the waters uniting below, fpread a broad, glittering Sheet over a vaft convex elevation of plain fmooth rocks, and are immediately received by a fpacious bafon, where trembling in the centre through hurry and agitation, they gently fubfide, encircling the painted ftill verge ; from whence gliding Swiftly, they foon form a delightful little river, which continuing to flow more moderately, is reftrained for a moment, gently undulating in a little lake: they then pafs on rapidly to a high perpendicular fteep of rocks, from whence thefe delightful waters are hurried down with irre-flftible rapidity. I here feated myfelf on the mofs-clad rocks, under the fhade of fpreading trees and floriferous fragrant fhrubs, in full view of the caf-cades.
At
At tliis rural retirement were affembled a charming circle of mountain vegetable beauties; Magnolia auriculata, Rhododendron ferrugineum, Kalmia latifolia, Robinia montana, Azalea flammula, Rofapaniculata,Calycanthus Floridus, Philadelphus inodorus, perfumed Convalaria majalis, Anemone thalictroides, Anemone hepatica, Erythronium maculatum, Leontice thalictroides, Trillinfn feflile, Trillium cefnum, Cypripedium, Arethufa, Ophrys, Sanguinaria, Viola uvularia, Epigea, Mitdhella e-pens, Stewartia, Halefia, Sty rax, Loniccra, &c. Some of thefe roving beauties ftroll over the mofty, fhelving, humid rocks, or from off the expanfive wavy boughs of trees, bending over the floods, falute their delufive fhade, playing on the furface; fome plunge their perfumed heads and bathe their flexile limbs in the filver ftream; whilft others by the mountain breezes are toffed about, their blooming tufts befpangled with pearly and chryftahne dew-drops collected from the falling mills, gliftening in the rainbow arch. Having collected fome valuable fpecimens at this friendly retreat, I continued mylonefome pilgrimage. My road for a confiderable time led me winding and turning about the fteep rocky hills; the defccnt of fome of which were very rough and troublefome,by means of fragments of rocks, flippery clay and talc: but after this 1 entered a fpacious foreft, the land having gradually acquired a more level furface : a pretty graffy vale appears on my right, through which my wandering path led me, clofe by the banks of a delightful creek, which fometimes falling over fteps of rocks, glides gently with ferpen-tine meanders through the meadows.
After crofting this delightful brook and mead, the land rifes again with fublime magnificence, and.
I am
1 am led over hills and valrs, groves and high forefts, vocal with the melody of the feathered fongfters; the fnow-white cafcades glittering on the fides of the diftant hills.
It was now afternoon; I approached a charming vale, amidft fublimely high forefts, awful fhades ! Darknefs gathers around; far diftant thunder rolls over the trembling hills: the black clouds with auguft majefty and power, move flowly forwards, Ihading regions of towering hills, and threatening all the deftruclion of a thunder ftorm : all around is now ftill as death ; not a whifper is heard, but a total inactivity and ftlence feem to pervade the earth; the birds afraid to utter a chirrup, in low tremulous voices take leave of each other, feeking covert and fafety : every infect is Silenced, and nothing heard but the roaring of the approaching hurricane.   The mighty cloud now expands its fable wings, extending from North to South, and is driven irrefiftibly on by the tumultuous winds, fpreading its livid wings around the gloomy concave, armed with terrors of thunder and fiery fhafts of lightning.   Now the lofty forefts bend low beneath its fury; their limbs and wavy boughs are toffed about and catch hold of each other; the mountains tremble and feem to reel about, and the ancient hills to be fhaken to their foundations: the furious ftorm fweeps along, fmoaking through the vale and over the refounding hills: the face of the earth is obfeured by the deluge defcending from the firmament, and I am deafened by the din of the thunder. The tempeftuous fcene damps my Spirits, and my horfe finks under me at the tremendous peals, as I haften on for the plain.
The ftorm abating, I faw an Indian hunting Z 3 cabin
cabin on the fide of a hill, a very agreeable prof-peer, efpecially in my prefent condition ; I made up to it and took quiet pofTeffion, there being no one to difpute it with me except a few bats and whip-poor-wills,who had repaired thither for fhelter from the violence of the hurricane.
Having turned out my horfe in the fweet meadows adjoining, and found fome dry wood under fhelter of the old cabin, I ftruck up a fire, dried my clothes, and comforted myfelf with a frugal repaft of bifcuit and dried beef, which was all the food my viaticum afforded me by this time, excepting a fmall piece of cheefe which I had furnifhed myfelf with at Charleflon and kept fill this time.
The night was clear, calm and cool, and I retted quietly. Next morning at day break I was awakened and fummoned to refume my daily talk, by the fhrill cries of the focial night hawk and active merry mock bird. By the time the rifing fun had gilded the tops of the towering hills, the mountains and vales rang with the harmonious fhouts of the pious and cheerful tenants of the groves and meads.
I obferved growing in great abundance in thefe mountain meadows, Sanguiforba Canadenfis and Heracleum maximum ; the latter exhibiting a fine fhow, being rendered confpicuous even at a great diftance, by its great height and fpread, vaft pen-natifid leaves and expanfive umbels of fnow-white flowers. The Swelling bafes of the unrounding hills fronting the meadows prefented for my acceptance the fragrant red Strawberry, in painted beds of many acres furface, indeed I may fafely fay, many hundreds.
After
After paffing through this meadow, the road led me over the bafes of a ridge of hills,which as a bold promontory dividing the fields I had juft paffed, form expanfive green lawns.   On thefe towering hills appeared the ruins of the ancient famous town of Sticoe.   Here was a vaft Indian mount or tumulus and great terrace, on which ftood the covin-cil-houfe, with banks encompaffi'ng their circus; here were alfo old Peach and Plumb orchards; fome of the trees appeared yet thriving and fruitful. Prefently after leaving thefe ruins, the vale and fields are divided by means of a fpur of the mountains pulliing forward: here likewife the road forked ; the left-hand path continued up the mountains to the Overfull towns: 1 followed the vale to the light hand, and foon began again to afcend the Hills, riding feveral miles over very rough, (tony land, yielding the like vegetable productions as heretofore; and descending again gradually, by a dubious winding path, leading into a narrow vale and lawn, through which rolled on before me a delightful brook, water of the Tanafe.   I crolfed it and continued a mile or two down the meadows; when the high mountains on each fide fuddenly receding, difcovered the opening of the extenfive and fruitful vale of Cowe, through which meanders the head branch of the Tanafe, almoft from its fource, fixty miles, following its courfe down to Cowe.
I left for a little while, the ftream palling fwiftly and foaming over its rocky bed, lafhing the fteep craggy banks, and then fuddenly funk from my fight, murmuring hollow and deep under the rocky furface of the ground. On my right hand the vale expands, receiving a pretty filvery brook of water
Z 4 which
which came haftily down from the adjacent hills, and entered the river a little diftance before me. I now turn from the heights on my left, the road leading into the level lawns, to avoid the hollow rocky grounds, full of holes and cavities, arching over the river, through which the waters are feen gliding along j but the river is foon liberated from thefe folitary and gloomy receifes, and appears waving through the green plain before me, I continued feveral miles, purfuing my ferpentine path, through and over the meadows and green fields, and crofting the river, which is here incredibly increafed in fize, by the continual acceftion of brooks flowing in from the hills on each fide, dividing their green turfy beds, forming them into parterres, viftas and verdant Swelling knolls, profufely productive of flowers and fragrant ft raw berries, their rich juice dying my horfes feet and ancles.
Thefe fwelling hills the prolific beds on which the towering mountains repofe, feem to have been the common fituations of the towns of the ancients, as appears from the remaining ruins of them yet to be feen, and the level rich vale and meadows in front, their planting grounds.
Continue yet ten or twelve miles down the vale, my road leading at times clofe to the banks of the river, the Azalea, Kalmia, Rhododendron, Philadelphus, &'c, beautifying his now elevated fhores, and painting the coves with a rich and cheerful Scenery, continually unfolding new profpedls as I traverfe the fhores: the towering mountains feem continually in motion as I pafs along, pompoufly raifing their Superb crefts towards the lofty Ikies, traverfing the far diftant horizon.
fhe
The Tanafe is now greatly increafed from the conflux of the multitude of rivulets and brooks, defcending from the hills on either fide, generoufly contributing to eftablifh his future fame, already a ipacious river.
The mountains recede, the vale expands; two beautiful rivulets dream down through lateral vales, gliding in ferpentine mazes over the green turfy-knolls, and enter the Tanafe nearly oppofite to each other. Straight forward the expanfive green vale feems yet infinite: now on the right hand a lofty pyramidal hill terminates a fpur of the adjacent mountain, and advances almoft into the river ; but immediately after doubling this promontory, an expanded wing of the vale fpreads on my right, down which came precipitately a very beautiful creek, which flowed into the river juft before me; but now behold, high upon the fide of a diftant mountain overlooking the vale, the fountain of this brifk-flowing creek; the unparalleled waterfall appears as a vaft edifice with cryftal front, or a field of ice lying on the bofom of the hill.
I now approach the river at the fording place, which was greatly fwollen by the floods of rain that fell the day before, and ran with foaming rapidity; but obferving that it had fallen feveral feet perpendicular, and perceiving the bottom or bed of the river to be level, and covered evenly with pebbles, I ventured to crols over; however I was obliged to fwim two or three yards at the deepeft cha-nel of it, and landed fafely on the banks of a fine meadow, which lay on the oppofite fhore, where I immediately alighted and fpread abroad on the turf my linen, books and fpecimens of plants, &c. to dry, turned out my fteed to graze and then advanced into
Co the itrawberry plains to regale on the fragrant, delicious fruit, welcomed by communities of the Splendid meleagris, the capricious roe-buck, and all the free and happy tribes which poflefs and inhabit thofe prolific fields, who appeared to invite and joined with me in the participation of the bountiful repair prefented to us from the lap of nature.
I mounted again, and followed the trading path about a quarter of a mile through the fields, then gently afcended the green beds of the hills, and entered the forefts, being a point of a chain of hills projecting into the green vale or low lands of the rivers. This foreft continued about a mile, the furface of the land level but rough, being covered with ltones or fragments of rocks, and very large, fmooth pebbles of various fhapes and fizes, fome of ten or fifteen pounds weight: I obferved on each fide of the road many vaft heaps of thefe ltones, Indian graves undoubtedly *.
After I left the graves, the ample vale foon offered on my right hand, through the tall foreft trees, charming views, which exhibited a pleafing contrail, immediately out of the gloomy fhades and fcenes of death, into expanfive, lucid, green, flowery fields, expanding between retiring hills, and turfy eminences, the rapid Tanafe gliding through, as a vaft ferpent ruihing after his prey.
My winding path now leads me again over the green fields into the meadows, fometimes vifiting
* At this place was fought a bloody and decifive battle between thefe Indians and the Carolinians, under the conduO of general Middleion, when a great number of Cherokee warriors were flain, which fhook their power, terrified and humbled them, infomuch that they deferted moil of their fet-rlements in the low countries, and betook themfelves to the mountains as
• l< ceffibfo lothc regular forces of the white people.
the
the decorated banks of the river, as it meanders through the meadows, or boldly fweeps along the bafes of the mountains, its furface receiving the images reflected from the flowery banks above.
Thus was my agreeable progrefs for about fifteen miles, fince I came upon the fources of the Tanafe, at the head of this charming vale: in the evening efpying a human habitation at the foot of the Hoping green hills, beneath lofty forefts of the mountains on the left hand, and at the fame time obferving a man crofting the river from the oppofite ftiore in a canoe and coming towards me, I waited his approach, who hailing me, I anfwered I was for Cowe ; he mtreated me very civilly to call at his houfe, adding that he would prefently come to me.
I was received and entertained here until next day with the moft perfect civility. After I had dined, towards evening, a company of Indian girls, inhabitants of a village in the hills at a fmall diftance, called, having bafkets of ftrawberries; and this man, who kept here a trading houfe, being married to a Cherokee woman of family, was indulged to keep a flock of cattle, and his helpmate being an excellent houfe-wife and a very agreeable good woman, treated us with cream and ftrawberries.
Next morning after t?reakfafting on excellent coffee, reliftied with bucanned venifon, hot corn cakes, excellent butter and cheefe, fat forwards a-gain for Cowe, which was about fifteen miles diftance, keeping the trading path which courfed through the low lands between the hills and the river, now fpacious and well beaten by travellers,
4 but
but ibmewhat intricate to a ftranger, from the frequent collateral roads falling into it from villages Or towns over the hills. After riding about four miles, moftly through fields and plantations, the foil incredibly fertile, arrived at the town of E-choe, confifting of many good houfes, well inhabited. I paffed through, and continued three miles farther to 1 Nucaffe, and three miles more brought me to Whatoga. Riding through this large town, the road carried me winding about through their little plantations of Corn, Beans, &c. up to the council-houfe, which was a very large dome or rotunda, fituated on the top of an ancient artificial mount, and here my road terminated. All before me and on every fide, appeared little plantations ofyoung Corn, Beans, &;c. divided from each other by narrow flrips or borders of grafs, which marked the bounds of each one's property, their habitation Handing in the midfb. Finding no common high road to lead me through the town, I was now at a (land how to proceed farther; when obferving an Indian man at the door of his habitation, three or four hundred yards diftance from me, beckoning me to come to him, I ventured to ride through their lots, being careful to do no injury to the young plants, the rifing hopes of their labour and induftry ; croffed a little graffy vale watered by a filver ftream, which gently undulated through; ^then afcended a green hill to the houfe, where I "was chearfully welcomed at the door, and led in by the chief, giving the care of my horfe to two hand-fome youths, his fons. During my continuance here, about half an hour, I experienced the moft perfect and agreeable hofpitality conferred on me by thefe happy people; I mean happy in their dif-pohtions, in their apprehenfions of rectitude with
regard
regard to our focial or moral conduct. O divine
Simplicity and truth, friendihip without fallacy or
guile, hofpitality difinterefted, native, undented, unmodifyed by artificial refinements!
My venerable hoft gracefully and with an air of refpect, led me into an airy, cool apartmentj where being feared on cabins, his women brought in a re-frefhing repalt, confifting of fodden venifon, hot corn cakes, &c. with a pleafant cooling liquor made of hoinmony well boiled, mixed afterwards with milk, this is ferved up either before or after eating in a large bowl, with a very large fpoon or ladle to fup it with.
After partaking of this fimple but healthy and liberal collation, and the difhes cleared off, Tobacco and pipes were brought; and the chief filling one of them, whofe ftem, about four feet long, was ftieathed in a beautiful fpeckled fnake fkin, and a-dorned with feathers and firings of wampum, lights it and fmoaks a few whiffs, puffing the fmoak firft towards the fun, then to the four cardinal points, and laftly over my breaft, hands it towards me, which I cheerfully received from him and fmoak-ed; when we fell into conversation, He firft enquired if I came from Charleflon ? if I knew John Stewart, Efq. how long fince I left Charleflon ? &c. Having fatisficd him in my anfwers in the beft manner I could, he was greatly pleafed; which I was convinced of by his attention to me, his cheerful manners, and his ordering my horfe a plentiful bait of corn, which laft inftance of refpect is conferred on thofe only to whom they manifeft the higheft efteem, faying that corn was given by the Great Spirit only for food to man.
I ac-
I acquainted this ancient prince and patriarch with the nature and defign of my peregrinations, and that I was now for Cowe, but having loft my road in the town, requefted that I might be informed. He cheerfully replied, that he was pieafed I was come in their country, where I mould meet with friendihip and protection, and that he would himfelf lead me into the right path.
After ordering my horfe to the door, we went forth together, he on foot, and I leading my horfe by the bridle; thus walking together near two miles, we fhook hands and parted, he returning home, and I continuing my journey for Cowe.
This prince is the chief of Whatoga, a man univerfally beloved, and particularly efteemed by the whites for his pacific and equitable difpofition, and revered by all for his exemplary virtues, juft> moderate, magnanimous and intrepid.
He was tall and perfectly formed ; his countenance cheerful and lofty, and at the fame time truly characterise of the red men, that is, the brow ferocious, and the eye active, piercing or fiery, as an eagle. He appeared to be about fixty years of age, yet upright and mufcular, and his limbs active as youth.
After leaving my princely friend, I travelled about five miles through old plantations, now under grafs, but which appeared to have been planted the laft feafon ; the foil exceeding fertile, loofe, black, deep and fat. I arrived at Cowe about noon. This fettlement is efteemed the capital town : it is firu-ated on the bafes of the hills on both fides of the river, near to its bank, and here terminates the great
vale of Cowe, exhibiting one of the moil charming natural mountaneous landfcapes perhaps any where to be feen; ridges of hills rifing grand and fublimely one above and beyond another, fome boldly and majeftically advancing into the verdant plain, their feet bathed with the filver flood of the Tanafe, whilft others far diftant, veiled in blue mifts, fublimely mounting aloft, with yet greater majefty lift up their pompous crefts, and overlook vaft regions.
The vale is clofed at Cowe by a ridge of mighty hills, called the Jore mountain, faid to be the highefl land in the Cherokee country, which crofles the Tanafe here.
On my arrival at this town I waited on the gentlemen to whom I was recommended by letter, and was received with refpect: and every demonftra-tion of hofpitality and friendihip.
I took my refidence with Mr. Galahan the chief trader here, an ancient refpectable man, who had been many years a trader in this country, and is efteemed and beloved by the Indians for his humanity, probity and equitable dealings with them; which, to be juft and candid I am obliged to ob-ferve (and bluih for my countrymen at the recital) is fomewhat of a prodigy; as it is a fact, I am afraid too true, that the white traders in their commerce with the Indians, get great and frequent oc-caftons of complaint of their difhonefty and violence : but yet there are few exceptions, as in the conduct of this gentleman, who furnifhes a living inftance of the truth of the old provetb, that " Ho-uefty is die beft policy;" for this old honeft Hibernian has often been protected by the Indians, when
all
all others round about him have been ruined, their property feized and themfelves driven out of the country or flain by the injured, provoked natives.
Next day after my arrival I croiTed the river in a canoe, on a viiit to a trader who refided amongft the habitations on the other ftiorc.
After dinner, on his mentioning fome curious fcenes amongft the hills, fome miles diftance from the river, we agreed to fpend the afternoon in ob-fervations on the mountains.
After riding near two miles through Indian plantations of Corn, which was well cultivated, kept clean of weeds, and was well advanced, being near eighteen inches in height, and the Beans planted at the Corn-hills were above ground; we left the fields on our right, turning towards the mountains, and afcending through a delightful green vale or lawn, which conducted us in amongft the pyramidal hills, and crofting a brink flowing creek, meandering through the meads, which contiued near two miles, dividing and branching in amongft the hills. We then mounted their fteep afcents, rifing gradually by ridges or fteps one above another, frequently crofting narrow fertile dales as we afcended : the air felt cool and animating, being charged with the fragrant breath of the mountain beauties, the blooming mountain clufter Rofe, bluftiing Rhododendron and fair Lilly of the valley. Having now attained the fummit of this very elevated ridge, we enjoyed a fine profpect indeed; the enchanting Vale of Keowe, perhaps as celebrated for fertility, fruitfulnefs and beautiful prolpecrs as the Fields of Pharfalia or the Vale of Tempe; the town, the elevated peeks of the Jore mountains, a
very
very diftant profpect of the Jore village in a beautiful lawn, lifted up many thoufand feet higher than our prefent fituation, befides a View of many other villages and fettlements on the fides of the mountains, at various diftances and elevations; the filver rivulets gliding by them, and fnow white catarafts glimmering on the fides of the lofty^ hills; the bold promontories of the Jore mountain Stepping into the Tanafe river, whilft his foaming waters rulhed between them. k
After viewing this very entertaining fcene, we began to defcend the mountain on the other fide, which exhibited the fame order of gradations of ridges and vales as on our afcent; and at length refted on a very expanfive, fertile plain, amidft the towering hills, over which we rode a long time, through magnificent high forefts, extenfive green fields, meadows and lawns. Here had formerly been a very flourifhing fettlement; but the Indians deferted it in fearch of frefti planting land, which they foon found in a rich vale but a few miles diftance over a ridge of hills. Soon after entering on thefe charming, fequeftered, prolific fields, we came to a fine little river, which crofting, and riding over fruitful ftrawberry beds and green lawns, on the fides of a circular ridge of hills in front of us, and going round the bafes of this promontory, came to a fine meadow on an arm of the vale, through which meandered a brook, its humid vapours bedewing the fragrant Strawberries which hung in heavy red duffers over the graffy verge. We crofted the rivulet; then rifing a (loping, green, turfy afcent, alighted on the borders of a grand foreft of ftately trees, which we penetrated on foot a little diftance to a horfe-ftamp, where was a large fquadron of thofe
A a ufeful
ufeful creatures, belonging to my friend and companion, the trader, on the light of whom th y if fembled together from all quarters; ibme at a i i; tance faluted him with fhrill neighings of gratitude, or came prancing up to lick the fait out of his hand, whilft the younger and more timorous came galloping onward, but coyly wheeled off, and fetching a circuit flood aloof; but as foon as their lord and mafter Shewed the cryftaline falty bait on the hard beaten ground, they all, old and young, docile and timorous. Soon formed themSelves in ranks and fell to licking up the delicious morfel.
It was a fine fight; more beautiful creatures I never faw; there were of them of all colours, Sizes and difpofttions. Every year, as they become of age, he fends off a troop of them down to Charleflon, where they are Sold to the higheft bidder.
Havin- paid our attention to this ufeful part of the creation, who, if they are under our dominion, have consequently a right to our protection and favour, we returned to our trufty Servants that were regaling themSelves in the exuberant Sweet paltures and Strawberry fields in fight, and mounted again. Proceeding on our return to town, continued through part of this high foreft fkirting on the meadows: began to afcend the hills of a ridge which we were under the neceftity of crofiing; and having gained its Summit, enjoyed a moft enchanting view; a vaft expanfe of green meadows and Strawberry fields; a meandering river gliding through, Saluting in its various turnings the Swelling, green, turfy knolls, embelliihed with parterres of flowers and fruitful ftrawberry beds ; flocks of turkies Strolling about them; herds of deer prancing in the meads
or
or bounding over die hills; companies of young, innocent Cherokee virgins, fome bufy gathering the rich fragrant fruit, others having already filled their bafkets, lay reclined under the fbade of floriferous and fragrant native bowers of Magnolia, A -zalea, Philadelphus, perfumed Calycanthus, fweet Yellow Jeffamine and cerulean Glycine frutefcens, difclofing their beauties to the fluttering breeze, and bathing their limbs in the cool fleeting Streams; whilft other parties more gay and libertine, were yetcollecting Strawberries, or wantonly chafing their companions, tantalifing them, Staining their lips and cheeks with the rich fruit.
The Sylvan fcene of primitive innocence was enchanting, and perhaps too enticing for hearty young men long to continue idle Spectators.
In fine, nature prevailing over realbn, we wifli-ed at leaft to have a more active part in their delicious fports. Thus precipitately refolving, we cautioufly made our approaches, yet undifcovered, almoft to the joyous fcene of action. Now, although we meant no other than an innocent frolic with this gay affembiy of hamadryades, we fhall leave it to the perfon of feeling and fenfibility to form an idea to what lengths our paffions might have hurried us, thus warmed and excited, had it not been for the vigilance and care of fome envious matrons who lay in ambufh, and efpyingus, gave the alarm, time enough for the nymphs to rally and aSTemble together. We however purSued and gained ground on a group of them, who had incautioufly Strolled to a greater diftance from their guardians, and finding their retreat now like to be cut off, took fhelter under cover of a little grove; but on perceiving themfelves to be difcovered by us, kept their Sta-,     A a 2 tion
tion, peeping through the bufhes; when obferving our approaches, they confidently difcovered themfelves, and decently advanced to meet us, half unveiling their blooming faces, incarnated with the modeft maiden blufh, and with native innocence and cheerfulnefs, prefented their little bafkets, merrily telling us their fruit was ripe and found.
We accepted a bafket, fat down and regaled ourfelves on the delicious fruit, encircled by die whole affembiy of the innocent jocofe fylvan nymphs: by this time the feveral parties, under the conduct of the elder matrons, had difpofed themfelves in companies on the green, turfy banks.
My young companion, the trader, by conceflions and datable apologies for the bold intrufion, having compromifed the matter with them, engaged them to bring their collections to his houfe at a fti-pulatcd price : we parted friendly.
And now taking leave of thefe Elyfian fields, we again mounted the hills, which we crofted, and traverfing obliquely their flowery beds, arrived in town in the cool of the evening.
■
CHAP.
CHAP. IV.
After waiting two days at Cowe expecting a guide and protector to the Overhill towns, and at laft being difappointed, I refolved to purfue the journey alone, though againft the advice of the traders; the Overhill Indians being in an ill humour with the whites, in confequence of fome late fkir-mifhes between them and the frontier Virginians, moft of the Overhill traders having left the nation.
Early in the morning I fat off attended by my worthy old friend Mr. Gallahan, who obligingly accompanied me near fifteen miles. We paffed through the Jore village, which is pleafingly fituated in a little vale on the fide of the mountain ■, a pretty rivulet or creek winds about through the vale, juft under the village: here I obferved a little grove of the Cafine yapon, which was the only place where I had feen it grow in the Cherokee country; the Indians call it the beloved tree, and are very careful to keep it pruned and cultivated: they drink a very ftrong infufion of the leaves, buds and tender branches of this plant, which is fo celebrated, indeed venerated by the Creeks and all the Southern maritime nations of Indians.   We then continued travelling down the vale about two miles, the road deviating, turning and winding about the hills, and through groves in lawns, watered by brooks and rivulets, rapidly ruffling from the towering hill on A a 3 every
every fide, and flowing into the Jore, which is a confiderable branch of the Tanafe,
Began now to afcend the mountain, following a fmall arm or branch of the vale, which led to a gap or narrow defile, comprefled by the high pending hills on each fide, down which came rapidly a confiderable branch of the Jore, dalhing and roaring over rocky precipices.
Now leaving Roaring creek on our right, and accomplifhing two or three afcents or ridges, another branch of the trading path from the Overhills to Cowe came in on our right, and here my tran-fitory companion Mr. Galahan parted from me, taking this road back to Cowe ; when I was left a-gain wandering alone in the dreary mountains, not indeed totally pathlefs, nor in my prefent fituation entirely agreeable, although fuch fcenes of primitive unmodified nature always pleafed me.
May we fuppofe that mankind feel in their hearts a predilection for the fociety of each other; or are we delighted with fcenes of human arts and cultivation, where die paflions are flattered and entertained with variety of objects for gratification ?
I found myfelf unable, notwithflanding the attentive admonitions and perfuafive arguments of reafon, entirely to erafe from my mind, thofe im-preflions which I had received from the fociety of the amiable and polite inhabitants of Charlefton i and I could not help comparing my prefent fituation in fome degree to Nebuchadnezzar's, when expelled from the fociety of men, and conltrained to roam in the mountains and wildernefs, there to herd and feed with the wild beatts of the forefts.
After
After parting with my late companion, I went forward with all the alacrity that prudence would admit of, that I might as foon as pofiible fee the end of my toil and hazard, being determined at all events to crofs the Jore mountain, laid to be the higheit land in the Cherokee country.
After a gentle defcent, I entered on an extremely ftony narrow vale, through which coafted fwiftly a large creek, twelve or fifteen yards wide, roaring over a rocky bed, which I crolfed with difficulty and danger, the ford being incommoded by fhel-ving rocks, full of holes and cliffs. After leaving this rocky creek, my path led me upon another narrow vale or glade, down which came in great hafle another noify brook, which I repeatedly crofted and recroffed, fometimes riding on narrow level grafiy verges clofe to its banks; ftill afcending, the vale gradually terminated, being fhut up by ftu-pendous rocky hills on each fide, leaving a very narrow gap or defile, towards which my road led me, afcending the fteep fides of the mountains; when, after rifing feveral wearifome afcents, and finding myfelf over-heated and tired, I halted at a little graffy lawn through which meandered a fweet rivulet. Here I turned my horfe to graze, and fat down to reft on a green bank juft beneath a high frowning promontory, or obtufe point of a ridge of the mountain yet above me, the friendly rivulet making a circuit by my feet; and now a little retted, I took out of my wallet fome bifcuitand cheefe, and a peace of neat's tongue, .compofing myfelf to eafe and refrefhment; when fuddenly appeared within a few yards, advancing towards me from behind the point, a flout likely young Indian fellow, armed with a rifle gun, and two dogs attending.
a a 4 Upon
Upon fightof me he flood, and feemed a litde furprifed, as I was very much; but inftantly recollecting himfelf and affuming a countenance of benignity and cheerfulnefs, he came brifkly to me and fhook hands heartily, and fmilingly inquired from whence I came, and whither going; but fpeaking only in the Cherokee tongue, our converfation was not conti-tinued to a great length. Iprefented him with fome choice Tobacco, which was accepted with courtefy and evident pleafure, and to my inquiries concerning the roads and diftance to the Overhill towns, he anfwered me with perfect cheerfulnefs and good temper. We then again fhook hands and parted in friendihip; he defcended the hills,finging as he went.
Of vegetable productions obferved in this region, were the following viz. Acer ftriatum, Ac, rubrum, Juglans nigra, Jug. alba, Jug. Hiccory, Magnolia acuminata, Quercus alba, tinctoria, rubra, QvprinUs, with the other varieties common in Virginia : Panax ginfeng, Angelica lucida, Convallaria majalis, Halcfia, Stewartia, Styrax>Staphylea, Evo-nimus, Viburnum, Cornus Florida, Betula nigra, Morus, Tilia, Ulmus, Fraxinus, Hopea tinctoria, Annona, Bignonia fempervirens, Ariftolochia frute-fcens, Bignonia radicans, &c. Being now refreih-cd by a Em pie but healthy meal, I began again to afcend the Jore mountains, which I at length ac-complifhed, and retted on the moft elevated peak; from whence I beheld with rapture and aftonifh-ment a fublimely awful fcene of power and magnificence, a world of mountains piled upon mountains. ■ Flaving contemplated this amazing profpect of grandeur, I defcended the pinnacles, and again falling into the trading path, continued gently defending through a graffy plain, fcatteringly planted
with large trees, and at a diftance furrounded with high forefts. I was on this elevated region fenfible of an alteration in the air, from warm to cold, and found that vegetation was here greatly behind, in plants of the fame kind of the country below; for in (lance, when I left Charleflon, the yellow Jafmine was rather paft the blooming days, and here the buds were juft beginning to fwell, though fome were in bloom. Continued more than a mile through this elevated plain to the pitch of the mountain, from whence prefented to view an expanfive profpect, exhibiting fcenes of mountainous landfcape, weftward, vaft and varied, perhaps not to be exceeded any where.
My firft defcent and progrefs down the weft fide of the mountain was remarkably gradual, eafy and pleafant, through graffy open forefts for the diftance of two or three miles ; when my changeable path fuddenly turned round an obtufe point of a ridge, and defcended precipitately down a fteep rocky hill for a mile or more, which was very trouble fome, being incommoded withfliattcrcd fragments of the mountains, and in other places with boggy finks, occafioned by oozy fprings and rills flagnate finking in micaceous earth : fome of thefe fteep foft rocky banks or precipices feem to be continually crumbling to earth; and in thefe mouldering cliffs I difcovered veins or ftrata of moft pure and clear white earth*, having a faint bluiih or pearl colour gleam, fomewhat exhibiting the appearance of the little cliffs or wavy crefts of new fallen fnowdrifts: we likewife obferve in thefe diffolving rocky cliffs,veins of ifinglafs (Mica S. vitrum Muicoviticum), fome
; * Micanitida: fpecimcns of thi? e.irth have Vert exported to England, for the purnofe of making Porcelain v> Chftu ware.
Of
of the flakes or laminae incredibly large, entire and tranfparent, and would ferve the purpofe of lights for windows very well, or for lanthorns; and here appeared ftrata of black lead (ftibium).
At length, after much toil and exercife, I was a little relieved by a narrow graffy vale or lawn at the foot of this fteep defcent, through which courfed along a confiderable rapid brook, on whofe banks grew in great perfection the glorious Magnolia auriculata, together with the other confpicuous flowering and aromatic fhrubs already mentioned j and I obferved here in the rich bottoms near the creek, a new fpecies of Hydraftis, having very large finuated leaves and white flowers ; after this 1 continued feveral miles over ridges and graffy vales, watered with delightful rivulets.
Next day proceeding on eight or ten miles, generally through fpacious high forefts and flowery lawns i the foil prolific, being of an excellent quality for agriculture; came near the banks of a large creek or river, where this high foreft ended on my left hand, the trees became more fcattered and in-fenfibly united with a graffy glade or lawn bordering on the river; on the oppofite bank of which appeared a very extenfive foreft, confifting entirely of the Hemlock fpruce (P. abies), almoft encircled by diftant ridges of lofty hills.
Soon after crofting this large branch of the Tanafe, I obferved, defcending the heights at fome diftance, a company of Indians, all well mounted on horfe back; they came rapidly forward : on their nearer approach 1 obferved a chief at the head of the carravan, and apprehending him to be the Tittle Carpenter, emperor or grand chief of the
Cherokees,
Chcrokees, as they came up I turned off from the path to make way, in token of refpect, which compliment was accepted, and gratefully and magnani-moufly returned; for his highnefs with a gracious and cheerful fmile came up to me, and clapping his hand on his breaft, offered it to me, faying, I am Ata-cul-culla; and heartily fhook hands with me, and afked me if I knew it. I anfwered, that the Good Spirit who goes before me fpoke to me, and laid, that is the great Ata-cul-culla and added, that 1 was of the tribe of white men, of Pennfylvania, who efteem themfelves brothers and friends to the red men, but particularly fo to the Cherokees, and that notwithstanding we dwelt at fo great a diftance, we were united in love and friendihip, and that the name of Ata-cul-culla was dear to his white brothers of Pennfylvania.
After this compliment, which feemed to be acceptable, he inquired if I came lately from Charleflon, and if John Stewart was well, faying that he was going to fee him. I replied, that I came lately from Charleflon on a friendly vifit to the Cherokees ; that I had the honour of a perfonal acquaintance with the fuperintendant, the beloved man, whom, I faw well but the day before 1 fet off, and who, by letters to the principal white men in the nation, recommended me to the friendihip and protection of the Cherokees. To which the great chief was pleafcd to anfwer very refpectfully, that I was welcome in their country as a friend and brother ; and then Shaking hands heartily bid me fare-wel, and his retinue confirmed it by an united voice of aftent. After giving my name to the chief, requeuing my compliments to the fuperintendant, the emperor moved, continuing his journey for
Charleflon;
Charlefton; and I, yet perfilting in my intention of vifiting the Overhill towns, continued on. Leaving the great foreft I mounted the high hills, defcending them again on the other fide, and fo on repeatedly for feveral miles, without obferving any variation in the natural productions fince paffing the Jore : and perceiving the flow progrefs of vegetation in this mountainous, high country j and, upon ferious confide ration, it appearing very plainly that I could not, with entire fafety, range the Overhill Settlements until the treaty was over, which would not come on till late in June ; I fuddenly came to a refolution to defer thefe refearches at this time, and leave them for the employment of another feafon and more favourable opportunity, and return to Dartmouth in Georgia, to be ready to join a company of adventurers who were to let off in July for Mobile in Weft Florida. The leader of this company had been recommended to me as a fit perfon to aftift me on fo long and hazardous a journey, through the vaft territories of the Creeks.
Therefore next day I turned about on my return, proceeding moderately, being engaged in noting fuch objects as appeared to be of any moment, and collecting fpecimens; and in the evening of next day arrived again at Cowe.
Next morning Mr. Galahan conducted me to the chief of Cowe,who during my abfence had returned from the chace. The remainder of this day I fpent in obfervations in and about the town, reviewing my fpecimens, &.C.
The town of Cowe confifts of about one hundred dwellings, near the banks of the Tanafe, on both fides of the river.
i The
The Cherokees conftrucT. their habitations on a different plan from the Creeks; that is, but one oblong four fquare building, of one ftory high; the materials confifting of logs or trunks of trees, ftrip-ped of their bark, norched at their ends, fixed one upon another, and afterwards plaiftered well, both inlide and out, with clay well tempered with dry grafs, and the whole covered or roofed with the bark of the chefnut tree or long broad mingles. This building is however partitioned tranfveriely, forming three apartments,which communicate with each other by infide doors ; each houfe or habitation has befides a little conical houfe, covered with dirt, which is called the winter or hot-houfe ; this ftands a few yards diftance from the manfion-houfe, oppofite the front door.
The council or town-houfe is a large rotunda, capable of accommodating feveral hundred people: it ftands on the top of an ancient artificial mount of earth, of about twenty feet perpendicular, and the rotunda on the top of it being above thirty feet more, gives the whole fabric an elevation of about fixty feet from the common furface of the ground. But it may be proper to obferve, that this mount on which the rotunda ftands, is of a much ancienter date than the building, and perhaps was raifed for another purpofe. The Cherokees themfelves are as ignorant as we are, by what people or for what purpofe thefe artificial hills were raifed; they have various ftories concerning them, the beft of which amount to no more than mere conjecture, and leave us entirely in the dark ; but they have a tradition common with the other nations of Indians, that they found them in much the fame condition as they now appear, when their forefathers arrived
from
from the Weft and poiTefted themfelves of the country, after vanquiftiing the nations of red men who then inhabited it,who themfelves found thefe mounts when they took poffeftion of the country, the former poffeftbrs delivering the fame ftory concerning them : perhaps they were defigned and apropri-ated by the people who conftructed them, to fome religious purpofe, as great altars and temples fimi-lar to the high places and facred groves anciently amongft the Canaanites and other nations of Palestine and Judea.
The rotunda is constructed after the following manner: they firft fix in the ground a circular range of pofts or trunks of trees, about fix feet high, at equal diftances, which are notched at top, to receive into them from one to another, a range of beams or wall plates, within this is another circular order of very large and ftrong pillars, above twelve feet high, notched in like manner at top, to receive another range of wall plates; and within this is yet another or third range of ftronger and higher pillars, but fewer in number, and ltanding at a greater diftance from each other; and laftly, in the centre ftands a very ftrong pillar, which forms the pinnacle of the building, and to which the rafters centre at top; thefe rafters are ftrengthened and bound together by crofs beams and laths,which fuftain the roof or covering, which is a layer of bark neatly placed, and tight enough to exclude the rain, and fometimes they eaft a thin Superficies of earth over all. There is but one large door, which ferves at the fame time to admit light from without and the fmoak to efcape when a fire is kindled ; but as there is but a fmall fire kept, fufficient to give light at night, and that fed with dry
fmall
fmall found wood diverted of its bark, there is but little finoak. All around the infide of the building, betwixt the fecond range of pillars and the wall, is a range of cabins or fophas, confifting of two or three fteps, one above or behind the other, in theatrical order, where the aftembly fit or lean down ; thefe fophas are covered with mats or carpets, very curioufly made of thin fplints of Afti or Oak,woven or platted together; near the great pillar in the centre the fire is kindled for light, near which the muficians feat themfelves, and round about this the performers exhibit their dances and other fhows at public feftivals, which happen almoft every night throughout the year.
About the clofe of the evening I accompanied Mr. Galahan and other white traders to the rotunda, where was a grand feftival, mufic and dancing. This aftembly was held principally to rehearfe the ball-play dance, this town being challenged to play againft another the next day.
The people being aflembled andfeated in order, and the muficians having taken their ftation, the ball opens, firft with a long harangue or oration, fpoken by an aged chief, in commendation of the manly exercife of the ball-play, recounting the many and brilliant victories which the town of Cowe had gained over the other towns in the nation, not forgetting or neglecting to recite his own exploits, together with thofe of other aged men now prefent, coadjutors in the performance of thefe athletic games in their youthful days.
This oration was delivered with great fpirit and eloquence, and was meant to influence the paflions 3 of
of the young men prefent, excite them to emulation, and infpire them with ambition.
This prologue being at an end, the muficians began, both vocal and inftrumental; when prefently a company of girls, hand in hand, drefTed in clean white robes and ornamented with beads, bracelets and a profufion of gay ribbands, entering the door, immediately began to fing their refponfes in a gentle, low, and fweet voice, and formed themfelves in a femicircular file or line, in two ranks, back to back, facing the Spectators and muficians, moving flowly round and round. This continued about a quarter of an hour, when we were furprifed by a Hidden very loud and fhrill whoop, uttered at once by a company of young fellows,who came in brifkly after one another,with rackets or hurls in one hand. Thefe champions likewife were well drefTed, painted, and ornamented with filver bracelets, gorgets and wampum, neatly ornamented with moccafins and high waving plumes in their diadems: they immediately formed themfelves in a femicircular rank alfo, in front of the girls, when thefe changed their order, and formed a Single rank parallel to the men, raifing their voices in refponfes to the tunes of the young champions, the femicircles continually moving round. There was fomething fingular and diverting in their itep and motions, and I imagine not to be learned to exactnefs but with great attention and perfeverance. The Step, if it can be fo termed,was performed after the following manner; firft, the motion began at one end of the femicircle, gently rifing up and down upon their toes and heels alternately, when the firft was up on tip-toe, the next began to raife the heel, and by the time the firft refted again on the heel, the fecond was
on
ttn tip toe, thus from one end of the rank to the other, fo that fome were always up and fome down, alternately and regularly, without the leaft baulk or confufionj and they at the fame time, and in the fame motion, moved on obliquely or fide-"ways, fo that the circle performed a double or complex motion in its progrefiion, and at ftated times exhibited a grand or univerfal movement, inftantly and unexpectedly to the Spectators, by each rank turning to right and left, taking each others places: the movements were managed with inconceivable alertnefs and addrefs, and accompanied with an instantaneous and univerfal elevation of the voice, and thrill fhort whoop.
The Cherokees, befides the ball play dance, have a variety of others equally entertaining. The men efpecially exercife themfelves with a variety of gesticulations and capers, fome of which are ludicrous and diverting enough j and they have others which are of the martial order, and others of the chace; thefe feem to be fomewhat of a tragical nature, wherein they exhibit aftomfhing feats of military prowefs, mafculine ftrength and activity. Indeed all their dances and mufical entertainments feem to be theatrical exhibitions or plays, varied with comic and fometimes lafcivious interludes: the women however conduct themfelves with a very becoming grace and decency, infomuch that in amorous interludes, when their refponfes and geftures feem contenting to natural liberties,they veil themfelves, juft difcovering a glance of their fparkling eyes and blufhing faces, expreflive of fenfibility.
Next morning early I fet oft'on my return, and meeting with no material occurrences on the road, in two days arrived fafe at Keowe, where I tarried
B b two
two or three daysj employed in augmenting my collections of fpecimens, and waiting for Mr. Ga-lahan, who was to call on me here, to accompany him to Sinica, where he and other traders were to meet Mr. Cameron, the deputy commifTary, to hold a congrefs at that town, with the chiefs of the Lower Cherokees, to confult preliminaries introductory to a general congrefs and treaty with thefe Indians, which was to be convened next June, and held in the Overhill towns.
I obferved in the environs of Keowe, on the bafes of the rocky hills, immediately afcending from the low grounds near the river bank, a great number of very fingular antiquities, the work of the ancients; they feem to me to have been altars for Sacrifice or fepulchres: they were conftructed of four flat if.ones, two fet on an edge for the fides, one clofed one end, and a very large flat one lay horizontally at top, fo that the other end was open ; this fabric was four or five feet in length, two feet high, and three in width. I inquired of the trader what they were, who could not tell me certainly, but fuppofed them to be ancient Indian ovens; the Indians can give no account of them : they are on the furface of the ground and are of different dimenfions.
I accompanied the traders to Sinica, where we found the com miliary and the Indian chiefs convened in counfel: continued at Sinica fometime, employing myfelf in obfervations, and making collections of every thing worthy of notice : and finding the Indians to be yet unfettled in their determination, and not in a good humour, I abandoned the project of vifiting the regions beyond the Cherokee mountains for this feafon; fet off for my return to fort James, Dartmouth, lodged diis night
in
in the forefts near the banks of a delightful large creek, a branch of Keowe river, and next day arrived fafe at Dartmouth.
Lift of the towns and villages in the Cherokee nation inhabited at this day, viz.
No.
Echoe Nucafte Whatoga Cowe
5 Ticoloofa
6 Jore
7 Conifca
8 Nowe
Tomothle Noewe Tellico Clennufe Ocunnolufte Che we
15 Quanufe
16 Tellowe
9
10
11
12
13
17 Tellico
18 Chatuga
19 Hiwafle 2,0 Chewafe
21 Nuanha
22 Tallafe
23 Chelowe
24 Sette ,
25 Chote great
26 Joco
27 Tahaffe
! i
r
1
1
On the Tanafe Eaft of the Jore mountains. 4 towns.
Inland on the branches of the Tanafe. 4 towns.
On the Tanafe over the Jore mountains. S towns
Inland towns on the branches of the Tanafe and other waters over the Jore mountains,
5 towns.
Overhill towns on the Tanafe or Cherokee river.
6 towns.
28 Tamahle 1 Overhill towns on the 2g Tufkege Tanafe or Cherokee
30----.BigIfland I river.
31 Nilaque 5 towns.
■72 Niowe
J
Lower towns Eaft of the mountains, viz, No. 1 Sinica
2 Keowe I On the Savanna or
3 Kulfage J  Keowe river.
4 Tugilo 1
5 Eftotowc J On Tugilo river^
6 Qualatche 1
7 Chote f On Flint river.
Towns on the waters of other rivers. Eftotowe great.   Allagae.   Jore.   Nae oche» In all forty-three towns.
CHAP,
CHAP. V.
Being returned from the Cherokee country to Dartmouth, I underftood that the company of adventurers for Weft Florida were very forward in their preparations, and would be ready to fet off in a few weeks, fo that I had but a little time allowed me to make provifton and equip myfelf for the profecution of fo long and hazardous a journey.
Our place of rendezvous was at fort Charlotte, on the oppofite fide of the river Savanna, and about a mile from fort James. I had a defire to make little botanical excurfions towards the head of Broad river, in order to collect fome curiofities which I had obferved thereabouts ; which being accomplifhed,
June 2id fet out from fort Charlotte in company with Mr. Whitfield, who was chief of our caravan. We travelled about twenty miles, and lodged at the farm of Monf. St. Pierre, a French gentleman,who received and entertained us with great politenefs and hofpitality. The manfton-houfe is fituated on the top of a very high hill near the banks of the river Savanna, overlooking his very extenfive and well cultivated plantations of Indian Corn (Zea) Rice,Wheat, Oats, Indigo,Convolvulus Batata,&c. thefe are rich low lands, lying very level betwixt Thefe natural heights and the river j his gardens occupy the gentle defcent on one fide of the mount, and a very thriving vineyard confifting of about five acres is on the other fide.
B b 3 Next
374
TRAVELS
Next morning after breakfaft we fet off again, continuing nine or ten miles farther down the river, when we flopped at a plantation, the property of one of our companions, where we were joined by the refl of the company. After dining here we prepared to depart; and the gentleman of the houfe taking an affectionate leave of his wife and children, we fat off again, and proceeding fix miles farther down the river,we crofted over into Georgia, taking a road which led us into the great trading path from Augufta to the Creek nation. As the foil, fituation and productions of thefe parts, for feveral days journey, differ very little from the Northern diitricts of Georgia, already recited,when on the furvey of the New Purchafe, I apprehend it needlefs to enter again into a detail of particulars, fince it would produce but little more than a recapitulation of that journey.
Early in the evening of the iyth we arrived at the Flat-ro<~k, where we lodged. This is a common rendezvous or camping place for traders and Indians. It is an expanfive clean fiat or horizontal rock, but a little above the furface of the ground, and near the banks of a delightful rivulet of excellent water,which is one of the head branches of Great Ogeche: in the loofe rich foil verging round this rock, grew feveral very curious herbaceous plants, particularly one of fingular elegance and beauty, which I take to be a fpecies of Ipomea (Ipomea, caulc erecto, ramofo, tripedali, fol. radicalibus,pin-natifidis, linearibus, humi-ftratis, florib. incarnatis intus maculis coccineis adfperfo). It grows erect, three feet high, with a ftrong ftem, which is decorated with plumed or pinnatifid linear leaves, fomewhat refembling thofe of the Delphinium or
Ipomea
Ipomea quamoclit; from about one half its length Upwards, it fends out on all fides, afcendant branches which divide again and again ; thefe terminate with large tubular or funnel-formed flowers; their limbs equally divided into five fegments ; thefe beautiful flowers are of a perfect rofe colour, elegantly be-fprinkled on the infide of their petals with crimfon fpecks; the flowers are in great abundance, and together with the branches and delicately 'fine cut leaves, compofe a conical fpike or compound pan-nicle. I faw a fpecies of this plant, if not the very fame, growing on the fea coaft iflands near St. Auguftine. The blue flowered Malva and Delphinium were its affociates about the Flat-rock.
There are extenfive cane brakes or cane meadows fpread abroad round about, which afford the moft acceptable and nourifhing food for cattle.
This evening two companies of Indian traders from Augufta arrived and encamped near us; and as they were bound to the Nation, we concluded to unite in company with them, they generoufty offering us their affiftance, having many fpare horfes and others lightly loaded, feveral of ours by this time being jaded: this was a favourable opportunity of relief in cafe of neceftity.
Next morning as foon as the horfes were packed and in readinefs, we decamped and fet forward together.
I thought it worthy of taking notice of a fingular method die traders make ufe of to reduce the wild young horfes to their hard duty. When any one perfifts in refilling to receive his load, if threats, the difcipline of the whip and other common abufe , B b 4 prove
prove insufficient, afcer being haltered, a pack-horfe-man catches the tip end of one of his cars betwixt his teeth and pinches it, when inftantly the furious ftrong creatine, trembling, ftands perfectly ftill until he is loaded.
Our caravan confifting of about twenty men and fixty horfes, we made a formidable appearance, having, now little to apprehend from predatory bands or out-laws.
This day's journey was for the moft part over high gravelly ridges, and on the moft elevated hills, appeared emerging out of the earth, rocky cliffs of a dark reddiih brown colour; their composition feemed to be a coarfe, fandy, ferruginous concrete, but fo firmly cemented as to conftitutc a perfect hard ftone or rock, and appeared to be excavated or worn into cavities and furrows by the violence of thedafh-ing billows and rapid currents of the ocean, which heretofore probably wafhed them; there were however ftrata or veins in thefe rocks, of a finer com-pofttion and compact confiftence, and feemed ponderous rich iron ore.   A little depth below the fandy gravelly furface, lies a ftratum of very compact reddiih yellow clay and fragments of ochre. The trees and fhrubs common on thefe gravelly ridges are as follows, Diofpyros, Quercus rubra, Q^ nigra, Q^tinctoria or great Black Oak, Q^alba, Qjobata, poft White Oak, Q^incana, foliis ova-libus integerrimis fubtus incanis, Pinus lutea, Pinus taxla, foliis geminatis et trims, ftrobilo ovato bre-vi, cortice rimofo, Pinus paluftris, foliis trinis lon-giflimis, ftrobilo elongata, Cornus Florida, Andromeda arborea, Nyffa fylvatica, Juglans hiccory, Prunus padus, &c. Of herbacea?, Solidago, Eupa-
torium,
torium, Sylphium, Rudbeckia, Gerardia, Afclepias, Agave Virginica, Eryngium, Thapfia, Euphorbia, Polymnia, &x.
In the courfe of this day's journey we croffed two confiderable rivulets, running fwiftly over rocky beds. There is fome very good land on the gradual defcents of the ridges and their bottoms bordering on creeks, and very extenfive graffy favannas and cane meadows always in view on one hand or the other. At evening we came to camp on the banks of a beautiful creek, a branch of Great Oge-che, called Rocky Comfort, where we found excellent accommodations, here being pleafant graffy open plains to Ipread our beds upon, environed with extenfive cane meadows, affording the bell of food for our quadrupeds.
The next day's journey led us over a level dif-trict; the land generally very fertile and of a good quality for agriculture, the vegetable furface being of a dark, loofe, rich mould, on a ftratum of ftiff reddiih brown clay.   Crofting feveral confiderable creeks, branches of the Ocone, North branch of the Alatamaha, at evening, July ift, encamped on the banks of the Ocone, in a delightful grove of foreft trees, confifting of Oak, Afti, Mulberry, Hiccory, Black Walnut, Elm, Saffafras, Gleditfia, cVc. This Jflourifhing grove was an appendage of the high forefts we had paffed through, and projected into an extenfive, green, open, level plain, confifting of old Indian fields and plantations, being the rich low lands of the river, and ftretching along its banks upwards to a very great diftance, charmingly di-verfified and decorated with detached groves and clumps of various trees and fhrubs, and indented on its verge by advancing and retreating promontories of the high land.
4- Our
Our encampment was fixed on the lice of the old Ocone town, which, about fixty years ago, was e-vacuated by the Indians, who, finding their fituation difagrceable from its vicinity to the white people, left it, moving upwards into the Nation or Upper Creeks, and there built a town ; but that fituation not fuiting their roving difpofition, they grew fickly and tired of it, and refolved to feck an habitation more agreeable to their minds. They all arofe, directing their migration South-Ealtward towards the fea coaft; and in the courfe of their journey, obferving the delightful appearance of the extenfive plains of Alachua and the fertile hills environing it, they fat down and built a town on the banks of a fpacious and beautiful lake, at a fmall diftance from the plains, naming this new town, Cufcowilla: this fituation pleafed them, the vaft defarts, forefts, lake and favannas around, affording unbounded range of the belt hunting ground for bear and deer, their favourite game. But although this fituation was healthy and delightful to the utmoft degree, affording them variety and plenty of every defirable thing in their eftimation, ycr troubles and afflictions found them out. This territory, to the promontory of Florida, was then claimed by the Tomocos, Utinas, Calloofas, Ya-mafes and other remnant tribes of the ancient Flo-ridans and the more Northern refugees, driven away by the Carolinians, now in alliance and under the protection of the Spaniards, who affifting them, attacked the new fettlement and for many years were very troublefome ; but the Alachuas or Oco-nes being ftrengthened by other emigrants and fugitive bands from the Upper Creeks, with whom they were confederated,and who gradually eitablifhed other towns in this low country, ftretching a line of fcttlements acrofs the ifthmus, extending from the
i Alatamaha
Alatamaha to the bay of Apalache ; thefe uniting "were at length able to face their enemies and even attack them in their own fettlements j and in the end, with the affiftance of the Upper Creeks, their uncles, vanquifhed their enemies and deftroyed them, and then fell upon the Spanifh fettlements, which alfo they entirely broke up. But having treated of thefe matters in the journal of my travels into Eaft Florida, 1 end this digreftion and proceed again on my journey.
After crofting the Ocone by fording it, which is about two hundred and fifty yards over, we travelled about twenty miles, and came to camp in the evening; paffed over a pleafant territory, prefent-ing varying fcenes of gentle Swelling hills and levels, affording fublime forefts, contrafted by expanfive illumined green fields, native meadows and Cane brakes; the vegetables, trees, fhrubs and plants the fame as already noticed without any material variation. The next day's journey was a-bout twenty miles, having crofted the Oakmulge by fording it three or four hundred yards over. I"his river is the main branch of the beautiful Alatamaha : on the Eaft bank of the river lie the famous Oakmulge fields, where are yet confpicuous very wonderful remains of the power and grandeur of the ancients of this part of America, in the ruins of a capital town and fettlement, as vaft artificial hills, terraces, &c. already particularly mentioned in my tour through the lower diftricTs of Georgia. The Oakmulge here is about forty miles.diftance from the Ocone, the other arm of the Alatamaha. In the evening we came to camp near the banks of Stony Creek, a large rapid water about fix miles beyond the river.
Next
Next day we travelled about twenty miles farther, eroding two confiderable creeks named Great and Little Tobofochte; and at evening encamped clofe by a beautiful large brook called Sweet Water, the glittering waving flood pafling along actively over a bed of pebbles and gravel. The territory through which we palfed from the banks of the Oakmulge to this place, exhibited a delightful di-verfified rural fcene, and promifes a happy, fruitful and falubrious region, when cultivated by induftri-ous inhabitants; generally ridges of low fwelling hills and plains fupporting grand forefts, vaft Cane meadows, favannas and verdant lawns.
I obferved here a very fingular and beautiful fhrub, which I fuppofe is a fpecies of Hydrangia (H. quercifoiia). It grows in coppices or clumps near or on the banks of rivers and creeks; many ftems iifually arife from a root, fpreading itfelf greatly on all fides by fuckers or offsets j the ftems grow five or fix feet high, declining or diverging from each other, and are covered with feveral barks or rinds, the laft of which being of a cinereous dirt colour and very thin, at a certain age of the ftems or flioots, cracks through to the next bark, and is peeled off by the winds, difcovering the under, fmooth, dark reddiih brown bark, which alfo cracks and peels off the next year, in like manner as the former; thus every year forming a new bark; the ftems divide regularly or oppolitely, though the branches are crooked or wreathe about horizontally, and thefe again divide, forming others which terminate with large heavy panicles or thyrfi of flowers; but thefe flowers are of two kinds: the numerous partial fpikes which compofe the panicles and confift of a multitude of very fmall fruitful flowers, terminate
rninate with one or more very large expanfive neutral or mock flowers, Handing on a long, flender, ftiff peduncle ; thefe flowers are compofed of four broad oval petals or Segments, of a dark rofe or Crimfon colour at firft, but as they become older acquire a deeper red or purplifh hue, and laftly are of a brown or ferruginous colour; thefe have no perfect parts of generation of either fex, but difco-ver in their centre two, three or four papilke or rudiments; thefe neutral flowers, with the whole pannicle, are truly permanent, remaining on the plant for years, until they dry and decay: the leaves-which clothe the plants are very large, pinnatifid or palmated, and ferrated or toothed, very much refembling the leaves of fome of our Oaks; they fit oppofite, Supported by flender petioles, and are of a fine, full green colour.
Next day after noon we crofted Flint river by fording it, about two hundred and fifty yards over, and at evening came to camp near the banks of a large and deep creek, a branch of the Flint. The high land excellent, affording grand forefts, and the low ground vaft timber and Canes of great height and thicknefs, Arundo gigantea. I obferved growing on the fteep dry banks of this creek, a fpecies of ftirub Hypericum, of extraordinary ftiow and beauty (Hypericum aureum). It grows erect, three or four feet high, forming a globular top, reprefenting a perfect little tree; the leaves are large, oblong, firm of texture, fmooth and mining; the flowers are very large, their petals broad and confpicuous, which, with their tufts of golden filaments, give the little bullies a very fplendid appearance.
The adjacent low grounds and Cane fwamp afforded
forded excellent food and range for our horfes, who, by tills time, through fatigue of conftant travelling, heat of the climate and feafon, were tired and dif pirited : we came to camp fooner than ufual, and (farted later next day, that they might have time to reft and recruit themfelves. The territory lying upon this creek, and the fpace between it and the river, prefent every appearance of a delightful and fruitful region in fome future day, it being a rich foil, and exceedingly well fituated for every branch of agriculture and grazing, diverfified with hills and dales, favannas and vaft Cane meadows, and watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, all contiguous to the Flint river : an arm of the great Chata Uche or Apalachucla offers an uninterrupted navigation to the bay of Mexico and the Atlantic ocean, and thence to the Weft India iflands and over the whole world.
Our horfes being hunted up and packed, fat forward again, proceeding moderately, afcending a higher country and more uneven by means of ridges of gentle hills; the country however very pleafing, being diverfified with expanfive groves, favannas and Cane meadows, abounding with creeks and brooks gliding through the plains or roving about the hills, their banks bordered with forefts and groves, confifting of varieties of trees, fhrubs and plants; the fummits of the hills frequently prefent-ing to view piles and cliffs of the ferruginous rocks, the fame fpecies as obferved on the ridges between the Flat-rock and Rocky Comfort.
Next day we travelled but a few miles; the heat and the burning flies tormenting our horfes to fuch a degree, as to excite companion even m the hearts of pack-horkmem  Thefe biting flies are
of
of feveral fpecies, and their numbers incredible. We travelled almoft from fun-rife to his fetting, amidft a flying holt of thefe perfecuting fpirits, who formed a vaft cloud around our caravan fo thick, as to obfcure every diftant object ; but our van always bore the brunt of the conflict, the head, neck, and. fhoulders of the leading horfes were continually in a gore of blood : fome of thefe flies were near as large as humble bees; this is the hippobofca. They are armed with a ftrong fharp beak or probofcis, fhaped like a lancet, and flieathed in flexible thin valves; with this beak they inftantly pierce the veins of the creatures, making a large orifice from whence the blood fprings in large drops, rolling down as tears, caufing a fierce pain or aching for a confiderable time after the wound is made. There are three or four fpecies of this genus of lefs fize but equally vexatious, as they are vaftly more numerous, active and fanguineous ; particularly, one about half the fize of the firft mentioned, the next lefs, of a dufky colour with a green head; another yet fomewhat lefs, of a fplendid green and the head of a gold colour; the fling of this is intolerable, no lefs acute than a prick from a red-hot needle, or a fpark of fire on the fkin; thefe are called the burning flies.   Befides the preceding tormentors, there are three or four fpecies of the afilus or fmaller biting flies; one of a grayifh dufky colour; another much of the fame colour, having fpotted wings and a green head; and another very fmall and perfectly black : this laft fpecies lies in ambufh in fhrubby thickets and Cane brakes near water: whenever we approach the cool fhades near creeks, impatient for repofe and relief, almoft finking under the perfections from the evil fpirits, who continually
tinually Surround and follow us over the burning defart ridges and plains, and here are in fome hopes of momentary peace and quietnefs, under cover of the cool humid groves, we are Surprized and quickly invefted with dark clouds of thefe perfecting demons, befides mufquitocs and gnats (cu-lex et cynips).
The next day being in like manner oppreffed and harraffed by the flinging flies and heats: we halted at noon, being unable longer to fupport ourfelves under fuch grievances, even in our prefent fituation charming to the fenfes; on the acclivity of a high Swelling ridge planted with open airy groves of the fuperb terebinthine Pines, glittering rills playing beneath, aud pellucid brooks meandering through an expanfive green favanna, their banks ornamented with coppices of blooming aromatic fhrubs • and plants perfuming the air. The meridian heats juft allayed, the fun is veiled in a dark cloud, riling North-Weftward ; the air ftill, gloomy and fultry; the animal fpirits fink under the conflict, and we fall into a kind of mortal torpor rather than re-frefhing repofe; and ftartled or terrified at each others plaintive murmurs and groans. Now the earth trembles under the peals of inceflant diftant thunder, the hurricane comes on roaring, and I am (hocked again to life : I raife my head and rub open my eyes, pained with gleams and flafhes of lightning; when juft attempting to wake my afflicted brethren and companions, almoft overwhelmed with floods of rain, the dark cloud opens over my head, developing a vaft river of the ethe-rial fire ; I am inftantly ftruck dumb, inactive and benumbed ; at length the pulfe of life begins to vibrate, the animal fpirits begin to exert their powers, and I am by degrees revived.
In
In the evening this furprifingly heavy tempeft pafled off, we had afercne iky and a pleafant cool night; having had time enough to colled; a great quantity of wood and Pine knots to feed our fires and keep up a light in our camp, which was a lucky precaution, as we found it abfolutely neceffary to dry our clothes and warm ourfelves, for all our Ikins and bedding were call over the packs of merchandize to prevent diem and our provifion from being injured by 'he deluge of rain. Next day was cool and pleafent, the air having recovered its elaf-ticity and vivific fpirit: I found myfelf cheerful and invigorated; indeed all around us appeared reanimated, and nature prefented her cheerful countenance ; the vegetables fmiled in their blooming decorations and fparkling cryftalline dew-drops. The birds fung merrily in the groves, and the alert roe buck whiffled and bounded over the ample meads and green turfy hills. After leaving our encampment, we travelled over a delightful territory, presenting to view variable fylvan fcenes, confifting of chains of low hills affording high forefts, with expanfive favannas,Cane meadows, and lawns between, watered with rivulets and glittering brooks. Towards evening we came to camp on the banks of Pintchlucco, a large branch of the Chata Uche river.
The next day's journey was over an uneven hilly country, but the foil generally fertile and of a quality and fituation favourable to agriculture and grazing, the fummits of the ridges rough witli ferruginous rocks, in high cliffs and fragments, fcat-tered over the furface of the ground : obferved alfo high cliff, of ftiff reddifli brown clay, with veins or ftrata of ferruginous ftones, either in detached maftes or conglomerated nodules or hematites with veins or maffes of ochre.
C e Next
Next day, after traverfing a very delightful ter rkory, exhibiting a charming rural fcenery of primitive nature, gently defcendijig and paffing alternately eafy declivities or magnificent terraces fup-porting fublime forefts, almoft endlefs grafly fields, detached groves and green lawns for the diftance of nine or ten miles, we arrived at the banks of the Chata Uche river oppofite the Uche town j where, after unloading our horfes, the Indians came over to us in large canoes, by means of which, with the cheerful and liberal aftiftance of the Indians, ferried over the merchandize, and afterwards driving our horfes altogether into the river (warn them over: the river here is about three or four hundred yards wide, carries fifteen or twenty feet water, and flows down with an active current; the water is clear, cool and falubrious.
The Uche town is fituated in a vaft plain, on the gradual afcent as we rife from a narrow ftrip of low ground immediately bordering on the river: it is the largeft, moft compact and beft fituated Indian town I ever faw; the habitations are large and neatly built; the walls of the houfes are con-ftructed of a wooden frame, then lathed and plaif-tered infide and out with a reddiih well tempered clay or mortar, which gives them the appearance of red brick walls ; and thefe houfes are neatly covered or roofed with Cyprefs bark or fliingles of that tree. The town appeared to be populous and thriving, full of youth and young children : I fuppofe the number of inhabitants, men, women and children, might amount to one thoufand or fifteen hundred, as it is faid they are able to mutter five hundred gun-men or warriors. Their own national language is altogedier or radically different from
the Creek or Mufcogulge tongue, and is called the Savanna or Savanuca tongue; I was told by the traders it was the fame with, or a dialect of, the Shawanefe. They are in confederacy with the Creeks, but do not mix with them; and, on account of their numbers and ftrength, are of importance enough to excite and draw upon them the jealoufy of the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, and are ufually at variance, yet are wife enough to unite againft a common enemy, to fupport the intereft and glory of the general Creek confederacy.
After a little refrefhment at this beautiful town, we repacked and fet off again for the Apalachucla town, where we arrived after riding over a level plain, confifting of ancient Indian plantations, a beautiful landfcape diverfified with groves and lawns.
This is efteemed the mother town or Capital of the Creek or Mufcogulge confederacy: facred to peace ; no captives are put to death or human blood fpilt here. And when a general peace is propofed, deputies from all the towns in the confederacy afiemble at this capital, in order to deliberate upon a fubject of fo high importance for the profperity of the commonwealth.
And on the contrary the great Coweta town, about twelve miles higher up this river, is called the bloody town, where the Micos, chiefs, and warriors aftemble when a general war is propofed ; and here captives and ftate malefactors are put to death.
The time of my continuance here, which was about a week, was employed in excurfions round about this fettlement.   One day the chief trader of Apalachucla obliged me with his company on a C c 2 walk
walk of about a mile and an half down the river, to view the ruins and fite of the ancient Apalachucla: it had been fituated on a peninfula formed by a doubling of the liver, and indeed appears to have been a veiy famous capital by the artificial mounds or terraces, and a very populous fettlement, from its extent and expanfive old fields, ftretching beyond the fcope of the fight along the low grounds of the river.   We viewed the mounds or terraces, on which formerly ftood their town houfe or rotunda and fquare or areopagus, and a little behind thefe, on a level height or natural ftep, above the low grounds, is a vaft artificial terrace or four fquare mound, now feven or eight feet higher than the common furface of the ground ; in front of one fquare or fide of this mound adjoins a very extenfive oblong fquare yard or artificial level plain, funk a little below the common furface, and furrounded with a bank or narrow terrace, formed with the earth thrown out of this yard at the time of its formation : the Creeks or prefent inhabitants have a tradition that this was the work of the ancients, many ages prior to their arrival and pofleffing this country.
This old town was evacuated about twenty years ago by the general confent of the inhabitants, on account of its unhealthy fituation, owing to the frequent inundations of the river over the low grounds; and moreover they grew timorous and dejected, apprehending themfeives to be haunted and pof-feiVed with vengeful fpirits, on account of human blood that had been undeieivedly * fpiit in this old
* About fifty or fixty years ago almoft all The whit* tragic"; then in the nation wcr< m.ifl'acred in this town, whither they had repaired from the different towns, in hopes of an afylum or refuge, in conference ot the alum, having been timely apprized of the hoftile intentions of the Indians by their
temporary
town, having been repeatedly warned by apparitions and dreams to leave it.
At the time of their leaving this old town, like the ruin or difperfionof the ancient Babel, the inhabitants feparated from each other, forming feveral bands under the conduct or aufpices ot the chief of each family or tribe. The greateft number, however, chofe to fit down and build the prefent new Apalachucla town, upon a high bank of the river above the inundations. The other bands purfued different routs, as their inclinations led them, fettling villages lower down the river; fome continued their migration towards the fea coaft, feeking their kindred and countrymen amongft the Lower Creeks in Eaft Florida, where they fettled themfelves. My intelligent friend, the trader of Apalachucla, having from a long refidence amongft thefe Indians acquired an extenfive knowledge of their cuftoms and affairs, I inquired of him what were his fentiments with refpect: to their wandering, unfettled difpofition; their fo frequently breaking up their old towns and fettling new ones, &c. His anfwers and opinions were the neceffity they were under of having frefh or new ftrong land for their plantations, and new, convenient and extenfive range or hunting ground, which unavoidably forces them into contentions and wars with their confederates and neighbouring tribes; to avoid which they had rather move and feek a plentiful and peaceable retreat, even at a diftance, than contend with friends and relatives or embroil themfelves
temporary wives. They all met together in one houfe, under the avowed protection of the chiefs of the town, waiting the event; but whilft the chiefs *vcrc all'embled in council, deliberating on ways and means to protect them, the Indians in multitudes furrounded the houfe and fet lire to it ; they all, £cj the number of eighteen or twenty, perifhed with the houlc in the flames. The trader mowed me the ruins of the houfe wnere they were burnt.
C c 3 in
in deftrucrive wars with their neighbours, when either can be avoided with fo little inconvenience. With regard to the Mufcogulges, the firft object in order to obtain thefe conveniencies was the de-fttuction of the Yamafes, who held the pofleftion of Florida, and were in clofe alliance with the Spaniards, their declared and moft inveterate enemy, which they at length fully accomplilfied; and by this conqueft they gained a vaft and invaluable territory, comprehending a delightful region, and moft plentiful country for their favourite game, bear and deer.   But not yet fatisfied, having already fo far conquered the powerful Cherokees, as, in a manner, to force them to alliance, and compelled the warlike Chicafaws to fue for peace and alliance with them; they then grew arrogant and infatiable, and turned their covetous looks towards the potent and intrepid Chactaws, the only Indian enemy they had to fear, meaning to break them up and poffefs themfelves of that extenfive, fruitful and delightful country, and make it a part of their vaft empire. But the Chactaws, a powerful, hardy, fubtile and intrepid race,eftimated at twenty thoufand warriors, are likely to afford fufficient exercife for the proud and reftlefs fpirits of the Mufcogulges, at leaft for fome years to come; and they appear to be fo equally matched with the Chactaws, that it feems doubtful which of thefe powerful nations'will rife victorious. The Creeks have (worn, it feems, that they never will make peace with this enemy as long as the rivers flow or the fun purfues his courfe through the fkies.
Thus we fee that war or the exercife of arms originates from the fame motives, and operates in the fpirits of the Wild red men of America, as it 2 formerly
formerly did with the renowned Greeks and Romans, or modern civilized nations, and not from a ferocious,capricious delireof fhedding human blood as carnivorous favages: neither does the eager avarice of plunder ftimulate them to acts of mad-nefs and cruelty, that being a trifling object in their eftimation, a duffield blanket, a polifhed ride gun, or embroidered mantle ; no, their martial prowefs and objects of defire and ambition proceed from greater principles and more magnanimous intentions, even that of reuniting all nations and languages under one univerfal confederacy or common wealth.
The vegetable productions in the rich low ground, near the banks of this great river, of trees and fhrubs, are as follow; Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron tulipifera, Populus heterophylla,Laurus faflafras, Laurus Barbonia, Laurus benzoin, Be-tula lenta, Salix fluvialis, Magnolia grandiflora, Annona glabra, Ulmus campeftris, Ulmus fuberifera, Carpinus, Quercus, various fpecies, Juglans, various fpecies, iEfculus pavia, TEfculus fylvatica, f. Virginiana, Morus, Hopea tinctoria, Fagus fylvatica, of furprifing magnitude and comelinefs, &c. The land rifes from the river with fublime magnificence, gradually retreating by flights or fteps one behind and above the-other, in beautiful theatrical order, each ftep or terrace holding up a level plain; and as we travel back from the river, the fteps are higher, and the correfponding levels are more and more expanfive : the afcents produce grand high forefts, and the plains prefent to view a delightful , varied^Iandfcape, confifting of extenfive graffy fields, detached groves of high foreft trees, and clumps of lower trees, evergreen fhrubs and herbage ; green knolls, with ferpentine, wavy, glittering brooks C c 4 courfing
courfing through the green plains ; and dark promontories, or obtufe projections of the fide-long acclivities, alternately advancing or receding on the verge of the illumined native fields, to the ut-moft extent of fight. The fummits of the acclivities afford, befides the foreft trees already recited, Halefia, Ptelea, Circis, Cornus Florida and Amor-pha. The upper mound or terrace holds op a dilated level plain of excellent land, for the diftance of five or fix miles in width, which is a high foreft of the majeftic trees already mentioned, as Quercus tindto-ria, Juglans nigra, Morus, Ulmus, Tilia, Gleditfia, Juglans hiccory, &c. The land after this diftance, though almoft flat and level, becomes leaner ; the vegetative mould or furface is fhallower, on a ftratum of tenaceous humid clay, for the diftance. of fifteen or twenty miles, more or lefs, according to the diftance of the next great river; prefenting to our view a fine expanfe of level graffy plains, detached forefts and groves of Quercus alba, Q^ lobata, Q^phillos, Q^ hemifpherica, aquatica, with entire groves of the fplendid Nyffa fylvatica and perfumed Liquidambar ftyraciflua, vaft Cane meadows, and laftly a chain of graffy favannas. Immediately from this we began to afcend gradually the moft elevated, gravelly and ftony ridge, confifting of parallel chains of broken fwelling hills, the very higheft chain frequently prefenting to view cliffs of the ferruginous rocks and red clay already noticed. This laft mentioned high ridge divides the waters of the great rivers from each other, whence arife the fources of their numerous lateral branches, gradually increafing as they wind about the hills, fertilizing the vales and level plains, by their inundations, as they pour forth from the vaft humid forefts and ftiaded prolific hills,
and
and laftly, flow down, with an eafy, meandering, ffeady courfe, into the rivers to which they are tributary.
Our horfes by this time having recruited themfelves, by ranging at liberty and reeding in the rich young cane fwamps, in the vicinity of Apalachucla, we refumed our journey for Mobile, having here repaired our equipage, and replenilhed ourfelves with freih fupplies of provifions. Our caravan was now reduced to its original number ; the companies of traders who joined us at the Flat-rock, on our arrival at this town feparated from us, betaking themfelves to the feveral towns in the Nation, where they were refpectively bound. I fhall juft mention a very curious non-defcript fhrub, which I obferved growing in the ihady forefts, beneath the afcents, next bordering on the rich low lands of the river.
This ftoloniferous fhrub grows five or fix feet in height; many ftems ufually afcend from one root or the fame fource j thefe feveral ftems diverge from each other, or incline a little towards the earth, covered with a fmooth whitifh bark, divided op-pofitely, and the branches wreath and twift about, being ornamented with compound leaves; there being five lanceolate ferrated leaves, affociated upon one general long flender petiole, which ftand oppositely, on the branches, which terminate with a Spike, or panicle oS white flowers, having an agreeable Scent: from the characters of the flowers, this fhrub appears to be a fpecies of 7Efculus or Pavia, but as I could find none of the fruit and but a few flowers, quite out of feafon and imperfect, I am not certain.
3 CHAP.
CHAP. VI.
July 13th we left the Apalachucla town, and three days journey brought us to TalaiTe, a town on the Tallapoofe river, the North Eaft great branch of the Alabama or Mobile river; having paifed over a vaft level plain country of expanfive favannas, groves, Cane fwamps and open Pine forefts, watered by innumerable rivulets and brooks, tributary to Apalachucla and Mobile. We now altered our courfe, turning to the left hand, Southerly, and defcending near the river banks, continually in fight of the Indian plantations and commons adjacent to their towns. Paffed by Otaffe, an ancient famous Mufcogulge town. The next fettlement we came to was Coolome, where we frayed two days, and having letters for Mr. Germany, the principal trader of Coolome, I meant to confult with him in matters relative to my affairs and future proceedings.
Here are very extenfive old fields, the abandoned plantations and commons of the old town, on the Eaft fide of the river; but the fettlement is removed, and the new town now ftands on the oppofite fhore, in a charming fruitful plain, under an elevated ridge of hills, the Swelling beds or bafes of which are covered with a pleafing verdure of grafs; but the laft afcent is fteeper, and towards the fummit difcovers (helving rocky cliffs, which appear to be continually Splitting and burfting to pieces, Scattering their thin exfoliations over the tops of the graffy [triolls beneath.   The plain is narrow where the
town
town is built: their houfes are neat commodious buildings, a wooden frame with plaiftered walls, and roofed with Cyprefs bark or fhingles; every habitation confifts of four oblong fquare houfes, of one ftory, of the fame form and dimenftons, and fo fituated as to form an exact fquare, encompaftlng an area or court yard of about a quarter of an acre of ground, leaving an entrance into it at each corner.   Here is a beautiful new fquare or areopa-gus, in the centre of the new town; but the ftores of the principal trader, and two or three Indian habitations, ftand near the banks of the oppofite fhore on the fite of the old Coolome town. The Tallapoofe river is here three hundred yards over, and about fifteen or twenty feet deep: the water is very clear, agreeable to the tafte, efteemed falu-brious, and runs with a Heady, active current.
Being now recruited and refitted, having obtained a guide to fet us in the great trading path for Weft Florida, early in the morning we fat off for Mobile : our progrefs for about eighteen miles was through a magnificent foreft, juft without or fkirt-i'ng on the Indian plantations, frequently having a view of their diftant towns, over plains or old fields; and at evening we came to camp under flicker of a grove of Venerable fpreading oaks, on the verge of the great plains; their enormous limbs loaded with Tillandfia ufheadfeites, waving in the winds : thefe Oaks were fome fhelter to us from the violence of an extraordinary filower of rain, which fuddenly came down in fuch floods as to inundate the earth, and kept us Handing on our feet the whole night, for the furface of the ground was under water almoft till morning.   Early next morning, our guide having performed lus duty, took
leave
leave, returning home, and we continued on our journey, entering on the great plains. We had not proceeded far before our people roufed a litter of young wolves, to which giving chafe, we foon caught one of them, it being entangled in high grafs? one of our people caught it by the hind legs and another beat out its brains with the but of his gun,— barbarous fport!—This creature was about half the fize of a fmall cur-dog, and quite black.
We continued over thefe expanfive illumined graffy plains, or native fields, above twenty miles in length, and in width eight or nine, lying parallel to the river, which was about ten miles diftance ; they are invefted by high forefts, extenfive points or promontories, which project into the plains on each fide, dividing them into many vaft fields opening on either hand as we paffed along, which prefents a magnificent and pleafing fylvan landfcape of primitive, uncultivated nature. Crofted feveral very confiderable creeks, their ferpentine courfes being directed acrofs the plain by gently Swelling knolls perceptible at a diftance, but which feem to vanifh or difappear as we come upon them; the creeks were waters of the Alabama, the name of the Eaft arm of the Mobile below the confluence of the Tallapoofe. Thefe rivulets were ornamented by groves of various trees and fhrubs, which do not fpread far from their banks. I obferved amongft them the wild Crab (Pyrus coronaria), and Prunus Indica or wild Plumb, Cornus Florida, and on the graffy turf adjoining grew abundance of Strawberry vines: the furface of the plains or fields is clad with tall grafs, intermixed with a variety of herbage. The moft confpicuous, both for beauty and novelty, is a tall fpecies of Silphium ; the radical
leave?
leaves are large, long and lightly finuated, but thofe which garnifh the ftem are few and lefs finuated; thefe leaves, with the whole plant, except the flowers, appear of a whitifh green colour, which is owing to a fine foft filky down or pubefcence; the flower ftem, which is eight or ten feet in length when Handing erect, terminates upwards with a long heavy fpike of large golden yellow radiated flowers; the ftem isufually feen bowing on one fide or other, occafioned by the weight of the flowers, and many of them are broken, juft under the panicle or fpike, by their own weight, after ftorms and heavy rains, which often crack or fplit the ftem, from whence exudes a gummy or refmous fubftance, which the fun and air harden into femi-pellucid drops or tears of a pale amber colour. This refin poifefies a very agreeable fragrance and bitterifh tafte, fomewhat like frankincenfe or turpentine; it is chewed by the Indians and traders, to cleanfe their teeth and mouth, and fweeten their breath.
The upper ftratum or vegetable mould of thefe plains is perfectly black, foapy and rich, efpecially after rains, and renders the road very flippery: it lies on a deep bed of white, teftaceous, limeftone rocks, which in fome places refemble chalk, and in other places are ftrata or fubterrene banks of various kinds of fea fhells, as oftrea, &c: thefe diffolv-ing near the furface of the earth, and mixing with the fuperficial mould, render it extremely productive.
Immediately after leaving the plains we enter the grand high forefts. There were ftately trees of the Robinea pfeudacacia, Tilia, Morus, Ulmus, juglans exaltata, Juglans nigra, Pyrus coronaria, Cornus Florida, Cercis, &c,   Our road now for
feveral
feveral miles led us near the Alabama, within two or three miles of its banks: die furface of the land is broken into hills  and vales,   fome of them of confiderable elevation, covered with forefts of ftately trees, fuch as already mentioned, but they are of a much larger growth than thofe of the fame kind which grow in the Southern or inhabited parts of Georgia and Carolina.   We now left the river at a good diftance, the Alabama bearing away Southerly, and entered a vaft open foreft which continued above feventy miles, Eaft and Weft, without any confiderable variation, generally a level plain, except near the banks of creeks that courfe through: the foil on the furface is a dufky browniffi mould or fandy loam, on a foundation offtiffclay; and the furface, pebbles or gravel mixed with clay on the fummits of the ridges: the forefts confift chiefly of Oak, Hiccory, Afh, Sour Gum (Nyffa fylvatica), Sweet Gum (Liquidambar ityraciflua), Beech, Mulberry, Scarlet maple, Black walnut, Dog wood, Cornus Florida, ^Efculus pavia, Primus Indica, Ptelea, and an abundance of Chefnut (Fag. caftanea) on the hills, with Pinus tae-da and Pinus luteal.   During our progrefs over this vaft high foreft, we croffed extenfive open plains, the foil gravelly, producing a few trees and fhrubs or undergrowth, which were entangled with Grape vines (Vitis campeftris) of a peculiar fpecies? the bunches (racemes) of fruit were very large, as were the grapes that compofed them, though yet green and not fully grown, but when ripe they are of various colours, and their juice fweet and rich. The Indians gather great quantities of them, which they prepare for keeping, by firft fweating them on hurdles over a gentle fire, and afterwards drying them 0n their bunches in the fun. and air, and (tore them
up for provision. Thefe Grape vines do not climb into high trees, but creep along from one low-Shrub .to another, extending their branches to a great diftance horizontally round about j and it is very pleafing to behold the clufters pendant from the vines, almoft touching the earth; indeed fome of them lie upon the ground.
We now entered a very remarkable grove of Dog wood trees (Cornus Florida), which continued nine or ten miles unalterable, except here and there a towering Magnolia grandiflora; the land on which they Stand is an exact level; the Surface a fhallow, looSe, black mould, on a ftratum of Stiff, yellowifh clay. Thefe trees were about twelve feet high, fpreading horizontally ; their limbs meeting and interlocking with each other, formed one vaft, fhady, cool grove, ib denfe and humid as to exclude the fun-beams, and prevent the intrusion of almoft every other vegetable, affording us a moft deftrable fhelter from the fervid fun-beams at noon-day. This admirable grove by way of eminence has acquired the name of the Dog woods.
During a progrefs of near feventy miles, through this high foreft, there conftantly prefented to view on one hand or the other, fpacious groves of this line flowering tree, which muft, in the fpring feafon, when covered with blofoms, prefent a moft pleafing fcene; when at the Same time a variety of other fweet fhrubs difplay their beauty, adorned in their gay apparel, as the Halefia, Stewartia, TEfculus pavia, Mic. alba, TEfc. Florid, ramis divaricatis, thyr-fis grandis, flofculis expanfis incarnatis, Azalea, cVc, entangled with garlands of Bignonia crucigera,
1%.
Big. radicans, Big. fempervirens, Glycine frute-lcens, Lonicera fempervirens, &c, and at the fame time the fuperb Magnolia grandiflora, Handing in front of the dark groves, towering far above the common level.
The evening cool, we encamped on the banks of a glittering rivulet amidft a fpicy grove of the Illicium Floridanum.
Early next morning we arofe, hunted up our horfes and proceeded on, continuing about twenty miles, over a diftrict which prefented to view another landfcape; expanfive plains of Cane meadows, and detached groves, contrafted by fwelling ridges, and vales fupporting grand forefts of the trees already noted, embellilhed with delightful creeks and brooks, the low grounds producing very tall canes, and the higher banks groves of the Illicium, Callicanthus, Stewartia, Halelia, Styrax and others, particulary Magnolia auriculata. In the evening we forded the river Schambe about fifty yards over, the ftream active but fhallow, which carries its waters into the bay of Penfacola. Came to camp, on the banks of a beautiful creek, by a charming grove of the Illicium Floridanum : from this we travelled over a level country above fifty miles, very gently but perceptibly defcending South-Eaft-ward before us: this diftrict: exhibited a landfcape very different from what had prefented to view fince we left the nation, and not much unlike the low countries of Carolina ; it is in fact one vaft flat graffy favanna and Cane meadows, interfered or vaiioufly fcrolled over with narrow forefts and groves, on the banks of creeks and rivulets, or hommocks and fwamps at their fources ; with long leaved Pines, fcatteringlyplanted, amongft the grafs;
and on the high Tandy knolls and fweiiing ridges> Quercus nigra, Quercus flammula, Quercus incana, with various other trees and Ihrubs as already noted, inhabiting fuch fituations. The rivulets however exhibited a different appearance; they are fhailower, courfe more fwiftly over gravelly beds, and their banks are adorned with Illicium groves, Magnolias, Azaleas, Halefia, Andromedas, &c. The higheft hills near large creeks afford high forefts with abundance of Chefnut trees.
We now approached the bay Mobile, gently af. cending a hilly diftrict, being the higheft foreft adjoining the extenfive rich low lands of the river: thefe heights are fomewhat encumbered with pebbles, fragments and cliffs of rufty ferruginous rocks? the ftones were ponderous and indicated very rich iron ore ; here was a fmall diftrict of good land, on the acclivities and bafes of thefe ridges, and a level foreft below, watered by a fine creek, running into the Mobile. From hence we proceeded, again defcending, and travelled about nine miles generally over a level country confifting of favannas, Cane fwamps, and gentle rifing knolls, producing Pinus taxia, Nyffa fylvatica, Quercus rubra, Fagus cafta-nea, Fraxinus, with other trees.   Arrived at Ta-enfa, a pretty high bluff, on the Eaftern channel of the great Mobile river, about thirty miles above fort Conde, or city of* Mobile, at the head of the bay.
Next day early in the morning I embarked in a boat, and proceeded foi Mobile, along the banks of iflands (near twenty miles) which lay in the middle of the river, between the Eaftern and Weftern fhores of the main: the banks of thefe low flat rich iflands are well cultivated, having on them extenfive D d farms
farms and fome good habitations, chiefly the property of French gentlemcn,who reflde in the city, as being more pleafant and healthy. Leaving thefe iflands, we continued ten or twelve miles between the Eaftern main and a chain of low graffy iflands, too low and wet for cultivation ; then crolfed over the head of the bay, and arrived in town in the evening-
The city of Mobile is fituated on the eafy afcent of a rifing bank, extending near half a mile back on the level plain above; it has been near a mile in length, though now chiefly in ruins, many houfes vacant and mouldering to earth ; yet there are a few good buildings inhabited by French gentlemen, F.nglifh, Scotch and Irifb, and- emigrants from the Northern Britifh colonies. Meffrs. Swanfon and M'Gillivray who have the management of the Indian trade carried on with theChicafaws, Chactaws, Upper and Lower Creeks, &c, have made here very extraordinary improvements in buildings.
The fort Conde, which ftands very near the bay, towards the lower end of the town, is a large regular fortrefs of brick.
The principal French buildings are conftructed of brick, and are of one ftory, but on an extenfive fcale, four fquare, encompaffing on three fides a large area or court yard: the principal apartment is on the fide fronting the ftreet; they feem in fome degree to have copied after the Creek habitation in the general plan : thofe of the poorer clafs are conftructed of a ftrong frame of Cyprefs, filled in with brick, plaiftered and white-wafhed infidc and out.
July 3 ift, 1778, the air being very hot and fultry, thermometer up at 87, we had exceflfve thunder, and
1 repeated
repeated heavy mowers of rain, from morning until evening.
^Not having an immediate opportunity from hence to Manchac, a Britifh fettlement on the Mif-hlfipi, I endeavoured to procure a light canoe, with which I defigned to purfue my travels along fhore to the fettlements about Pearl river.
Auguft 5th, fet off from Mobile up the river ill a trading boat, and was landed at Taenfa bluff, the feat of Major Farmer, to make good my engagements, in confequence of an invitation from that worthy gentleman, to fpend fome days in his family ; here I obtained the ufe of a light canoe, to continue my voyage up the river. The fettlement of Taenfa is on the fite of an ancient town of a tribe of Indians of that name, which is apparent from many artificial mounds of earth and other ruins. Befides Mr. Farmer's dwellings, there are many others inhabited by French families; who are chiefly his tenants. It is a moft delightful fituation, commanding a fpacious profpect up and down the river, and the low lands of his extenfive plantations on the oppofite fhore. In my excurfions about this place, I obferved many curious vegetable productions, particularly a fpecies of Myrica (Myrica 'nodora): this very beautiful evergreen ihrub,which the French inhabitants call the Wax tree, grows in wet fandy ground about the edges of fwamps; it rifes erect nine or ten feet, dividing itfelf into a Multitude of nearly erect branches, which are gar-nifhed with many fhining deep green entire leaves °f a lanceolate figure; the branches produce abundance of large round berries, nearly the fize of bird cherries, which are covered with a fcale or coat of "^hite wax; no part of this plant poifeifes any de-
D d % • grcc
gree of fragrance • It is in high eftimation with the* inhabitants for the production of Wax for candles, for which purpofe it anfwers equally well with bees-wax, or preferably, as it is harder and mofC lading in burning.
Early on a fine morning I fet fail up the river, took the Eaft channel, and paffed along by well cultivated plantations on the fertile iflands, in the river on my left hand : thefe iflands exhibit every fhow of fertility j the native productions exceed any thing I had ever feen, particularly the Reeds or Canes (Arundo gigantea) grow to a great height and thicknefs.
Early one morning, palling along by fome old uncultivated fields, a few miles above Taenia, 1 was ftruck with furprize at the appearance of a blooming plant, gilded with the richeft golden yellow: Stepping on fhore, I difcovered it to be a new fpecies of the Oenothera (Oenothera grandiflora, caule erecto, ramofo, pilofo, 7, 8 pedali, foliis femi-amplexi-caulibus, lanceolatis, ferratodentatis, iloribus magnis, fulgidis, feflllibus, capfulis cylin-dricis, 4 angulis,) perhaps the molt pompous and brilliant heibaceous plant yet known to exiit. It is an annual or biennial, rifing erect feven or eight feet, branching on all fides from near the earth upwards, the lower branches extenfive, and the fuc-ceeding gradually fhorter to the top of the plant, forming a pyramid in figure; the leaves are of a broad lanceolate fhape,dentated or deeply ferrated, terminating with a flender point, and of a deep full green colour ; the large expanded flowers, that fo ornament this plant, are o'f a fplendid perfect yellow colour j but when they contract again, before they drop off, the underfide of the petals next the
c^lyx becomes of a reddiih flefh colour, inclining to Vermillion ; the flowers begin to open in the evening, are fully expanded during the night, and are in their beauty next morning, but clofe and wither before noon. Their is a daily profufe fuccefTion for many weeks, and one Angle plant at the fame in-ftant prefents to view many hundred flowers. I have meafured thefe flowers above five inches in diameter, they have an agreeable fcent.
After leaving thefe fplcndid fields of the golden Oenothera, I paffed by old deferted plantations and high forefts; and now having advanced above ten miles, landed at a bluff, where mooring my bark m a fafe harbour, I afcended the bank of the river, and penetrating the groves, came prefently to old fields, where I obferved ruins of ancient habitations, there being abundance of Peach and Fig trees, loaded with fruit, which affording a very acceptable defert after the heats and toil of the day, and evening drawing on apace, I concluded to take up my quarters here for the night. The Fig trees were large as well as their fruit, which was when ripe, of the fhape of pears, and as large, and of a dark bluifh purple colour.
Next morning I arofe early, continuing my Voyage ; paffed by, on each hand, high forefts and rich fwamps, and frequently ruins of ancient French plantations; the Canes and Cyprefs trees of an aftonifhing magnitude, as were the trees of other tribes, indicating an excellent foil. Came to at hoon, and advancing forward from the river, and penetrating the awful fhades, paffed between the flately columns of the Magnolia grandiflora, and came to the afcents fupporting the high forefts and
e*panfivc plains above-----What afylvan fcene is
D d 3 here \
here ! the pompous Magnolia reigns fovereign of the forefts; how fweet the aromatic Illicium groves! how gaily flutter the radiated wings of the Magnolia auriculata, each branch Supporting an expanded umbrella. Superbly crefted with a Silver plume, fragrant bloitom, or crimfon ftudded ftrobile and fruits ! I recline on the verdant bank, and view the beauties of the groves, JEfculus pavia, Prunus nemoralis, floribus race mo lis, foliis fempervirentjbus, nitidis, JEfculus alba, Hydrangia qucrcifolia, Caftine, Magnolia pyramidata, foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis, baft am iculatis, ftrobilo oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula, Hale-fea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon,with many more,
Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at evening came to, in fight of the confluence or junction of the two large arms of the great Mobile river, i. e. the Tombigbe or Chicafiiw with the Alabama or Coofau. About one hundred and fifty miles above this conflux, at Ft. Thouloufe, the Alabama receives into it from the Eaft the great Talapoofe river, when the former takes the name of Coofau, which it bears to its fource, which is in the So. Weft promontories of the Cherokee or Apalachian Mountains in the Chicafaw territories.
Obferved very large alligators, balking on the fhores, as well as iwimming in the river and lagoons.
Next morning entered the Tombigbe, and afcended that fine river. Juft within its Capes, on the left hand, is a large lagoon, or capacious bay of ftill water, containing many acres in Surface, which at a diftant view prefents a very fingular and diverting fcene j a delufive green wavy plain of the
Nymphasa Nelumbo: the furface of the water is overfpread with its round floating leaves, whilft thefe are fhadowed by a foreft of umbrageous leaves with gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexible Hems, three or four feet high: thefe fine flowers are double as a rofe, and when expanded are feven or eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yellow colour. The feed veffel when ripe, is a large truncated, dry, porous capfule, its plane or difk regularly perforated, each cell containing an oval offeous gland or nut, of the fize of a filbert; when thefe are fully grown, before they become quite hard, they are fweet and pleafant eating, and tafte like chefnuts: I fed freely on them without any injury, but found them laxative. I have obferved this aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eaftern fhores of this continent, in the large rivers and lakes, from New-Jerfey to this place, particularly in a large pond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Carolina, which is about two miles over and twelve feet water, notwithstanding which its furface is almoft covered with the leaves of this plant j it alfo abounds in Wakamaw lake near the fame river, and in Savanna river at Augufta, and all over Eaft Florida.
Proceeding up the river, came to at a very-high fteep bluff of red and particoloured tenacious clay, tinder a deep ftratum of loofe fandy mould: after afcending this fteep bank of the river, I found myfelf in an old field, and penetrating the forefts fur-rounding, obferved them to be young growth, covering very extenfive old plantations, which was evident from the ridges and hillocks which once raifed their Corn (Zea), Batatas, &c. I fuppofe this to be the fite of an ancient fortified poft of the
D d 4      . French,
French, as there appear veftiges of a rampart and other traces of a fortrefs; perhaps fort Louis de la Mobile ; but in all probability it will not remain long vifible, the ftream of the river making daily-encroachments on it, by carrying away the land on which it ftood.
Obferved here amongft other vegetable productions, a new fpecies, or at leaft a variety, of Hale-fia diptera: thefe trees are of the fize and figure of ordinary Mulberry trees, their ftems ihort, and tops regular and fpreading, and the leaves large and broad, in fize and figure refembling thofe of our common wild Mulberry.
Oppofite this bluff, on the other fide of the river, is a diftrict of fwamp or lowland, the richeft I ever faw, or perhaps any where to be feen: as for the trees 1 fhall forbear to defcribe them, becaufe it would appear incredible; let itfuffice to mention, that the Cyprefs, Afh, Platanus, Populus, Liquidambar, and others, are by far the talleft, ftraighteft and every way the moft enormous that I have feen or heard of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fertility of the foil, the reeds or canes (Arundo gigantea) grow here thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as a man's arm, or three or four inches in diameter; I fuppofe one joint of fome of them would contain above a quart of water; and thefe reeds ferve very well for fetting poles, or mails for barks and canoes. Continued yet afcending this fine river, paffing by the moft delightful and fertile fituations : obferved frequently, on bluffs of high land, deferted plantations, the houfes always burnt down to die ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiving little variation in the natural vegetable productions, the current of the river prefling down
with
with increafed force and velocity, I turned about, defending the river, and next evening came to at a large Weil cultivated plantation, where I lodged all night, and the evening following returned to Taenfa.
Next day I felt fymptoms of a fever, which in a few days laid me up and became dangerous. But a dole of Tart. Emet. broke its violence; and care and good attendance, after a few days in fome degree reitored my health, at leaft, fo far as to enable me to rove about the neighbouring forefts; and here being informed of a certain plant of extraordinary medical virtues, and in high eftima-tion with the inhabitants, which grew in the hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river, J refolved to fet out in fearch of it, the Major being fo polite and obliging as to furnifh me with horfes to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take care of me.
Sat off in the morning, and in the courfe of the day's journey crolfed feveral creeks and brooks, one of which fwam our horles. On parting by a fwamp at the head of a bay or lagoon of the river, I obferved a fpecies of Cyprefs j it differs a little from the white Cedar of New-Jerfey and Pennfylvania (Cupreffus thyoides), the trunk is fhort and the limbs fpread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves and the cones larger and of a crimfon or reddifh purple colour when ripe.
After leaving the low grounds and afcending the hills, difcovered the plant I went in fearch oi] which I had before frequently obferved in my de-fcent from the Creek nation down towards Taenfa. This plant appears to be a fpecies of Collinfonia ;
it
it is diuretic and carminative, and efteemed a powerful febrifuge, an infufion of its tops is ordinarily drunk at breakfaft, and is of an exceeding pleafant tafte and flavour : when in flower, which is the time the inhabitants gather it for prefervation and ufe, it poffeffes a lively aromatic fcent, partaking of lemon and anifeed. Lodged this night at a plantation near the river, and met with civility and good entertainment. The man and his three fons are famous hunters. I was allured from good authority that the old gentleman, for his own part, kills three hundred deer annually, befides bears, tygers, and wolves.
Next morning early, fat off again, on my return, and taking a different path back, for the fake of variety, though fomewhat farther about and at a greater diftance from the banks of the river, obferved abundance of the tall blue Sage : it grows fix or feven feet high j many ftems arife from one root or fource; thefe ftems are thick, woody and quadrangular, the angles obtufe : the narrow lanceolate and ferrated leaves are placed oppofite, and are fertile, lightly embracing the branches, which terminate with fpikes of large flowers of a celeftial blue colour.
Thefe ftony gravelly heights produce a variety of herbaceous plants, but one in particular I fhall mention on account of its fingular beauty: I believe it is a fpecies ofGerardea (Gerardea flammea); it grows erect, a fingle ftem from a root, three or four feet in height, branching very regularly from about one half its length upwards, forming a cone or pyramid, profufely garnifhed with large tubular 1 ablated fcarlet or flame coloured flowers, which give the plant a very fplendid appearance, even at
a great
a great diftance. Returned home in the evening fully Satisfied with the day's excurfion, from the difcovery of many curious and beautiful vegetables.
Having advice from Mobile of an opportunity fo Manchac, although my health was not eftablifh-ed, feverifh Symptoms continuing to lurk about me, I reSolved, notwithStanding, immediately to embrace this offer, and embarked again, defcending the river to the city in company with Dr. Grant, a physician of the garrifon, and late in the evening arrived in town, having Suffered a Smart fit of the fever by the way.
In the courfe of conversation with the doctor, I remarked that during my travels fince leaving the Creek nation, and when there, I had not feen any honey bees. He replied, that there were few or none Weft of the Ifthmus of Florida, and but one hive in Mobile, which was lately brought there from Europe, the Englifh fuppofing that there were none in the country, not finding any when they tookpof-feffion of it after the Spaniih and French. I had been affured by the traders that there were none in Weft Florida, which to me feemed extraordinary and almoft incredible, fince they are fo numerous all along the Eaftern continent from Nova Scotia to Eaft Florida, even in the wild forefts, as to be thought, by the generality of the inhabitants, aborigines of this continent.
The boat in which I had taken a paffage to Pearl river, not being in readinefs to depart for feveral days to come, I fought opportunities to fill up this time to the beft advantage poflible j and hearing of a boat going to the river Perdedo, for the purpofe of fecuring the remains of a wreck, I apprehended
hendcd this a favourable time to go and fearch that coaft, the captain civilly offering me a paffage and birth with him in a handfome light failing-boat. Set fail early on a fine morning, and having a brifk leading breeze, came to in the evening juft within Mobile point; collected a quantity of drift wood to keep up a light and fmoke away the mufquitoes, and relied well on the clean fandy beach until the cool morning awoke us. We hoifled fail again, and foon doubled the point or Eaft promontory of the cape of the bay, ftretching out many miles and pointing towards Dauphin ifland, between which and this cape is the fhip channel.
Coafting along the fea-fhore Ealtward, we foon came up to the wreck, which being already Stripped of her fails, &c, our captain kept on for Pen-facola, where we arrived late in the evening.
My arrival at this capital, at prefent the feat of government, was merely accidental and undefigned; and having left at Mobile all my papers and tefti-monials, J defigned to conceal my avocations, but my name being made known to Dr. Lorimer, one of the honourable council, he fent me a very polite invitation, and requeued that he might acquaint governor Chelter of my arrival, who he knew would expect that I fhould wait on him, and would be pleated to fee me. I begged to be excufed, at this time, as the boat would fail back for Mobile in a few hours, in which I was under the necehtty of returning^ muft lofe my paffage totheMiffiflipi; but during this expostulation I received a letter from Mr. Livingtton the fecretary, whom 1 waited upon, and was received very refpectfully and treated with the utmolt politenefs and affability. Soon after, the governor's chariot paffed bv, his excellency returning
ing ftom a morning vifit to his farm a few miles from Penfacola. Mr. Livingfton went with me and introduced me to the governor, who commended my purfuits, and invited me to continue in Weft Florida in refearches after fubjedts of natural hif-tory, &c, nobly offering to bear my expences, and a reftdence in his own family as long as I chofe to continue in the colony; very judicioufly obferving, that a complete investigation of its natural hiftory could not be accomplished in a fhort fpace of time, fince it would require the revolution of the feafons to difcover and view vegetable nature in all her various perfections.
The captain of our fortunate bark by this time being ready to fail, I took leave of his excellency the governor, and bid adieu to my friends Dr. Lo-rimer, Mr. Livingfton, and others : fet fail about noon on our return, and came to again within the capes of Mobile river.
Since 1 have hitherto given a fuperficial account of the towns, ports, improvements and other remarkable productions of nature, and human arts and induftry, during the courfe of my peregrination, I fhall not pafs by Penfacola and its environs. This city commands fome natural advantages, fu-perior to any other port in this province, in point of naval commerce, and fuch as human art and Strength can never fupply. It is delightfully fituated upon gentle rifing afcents environing a fpacious harbour, fafe and capacious enough to Shelter all the navies of Europe, and excellent ground for anchorage; the Weft end ofSt, Rofe ifland ftretches acrofs the great bay St. Maria Galves, and its South-Weft: projecting point forms the harbour of Penfacola,
which,
which, with the road or entrance, is defended by a block-houfe built on the extremity of that point, which at the fame time ferves the purpofe of a fortrefs and look-out tower. There are feveral rivers which run into this great bay from the continent, but none of them navigable for large craft, to any confiderable diftance into the country : the Shambe is the largeft, which admits fhallops fome miles up, and perriauguas upwards of fifty miles. There are fome fpots of good high land, and rich fwamps, favourable for the production of rice on the banks of this river, which have given rife to fome plantations producing Indigo, Rice, Corn, Batatas, &c. Thefe rivers dividing and fpreading abroad their numerous branches, over the expanfive flat low country (between the two great rivers Apalachucla and Mobile), which confifts of favannas and cane meadows, fill them with brooks and water courfes, and render them exuberant pafture for cattle.
There are feveral hundred habitations in Penfacola: the governor's palace is a large ftone building ornamented with a tower, built by the Spaniards. The town is defended by a large ftockado fortrefs, the plan a tetragon with ialient angles at each corner, where is a block-houfe or round tower, one ftory higher than the curtains, where are light cannon mounted : it is conftructed of wood. Within this fortrefs is the council chamber; here the records are kept, houfes for the officers and barracks for the accommodation of the garriiou, nrfcnal, magazine, &c. The fecretai y refides in a Ipacious, neat building: there are feveral merchants and gentlemen of*other profelTipns, who have reij able and convenient buildings in the town.
There
There were growing on the fand hills, environing Penfacola, feveral curious non-defcribed plants; particularly one of the verticillate order, about eighteen inches in height: the flowers, which formed loofe fpikes, were large and of a fine fcarlet colour; but not having time to examine the fructification, or collect good fpecimens, I am ignorant of what order or genus it belongs to.   And in the level wet favannas grew plentifully a new and very elegant fpecies of Saracinia (Saracinia lacuno-fa) j the leaves of this plant, which are twelve or fourteen inches in length, (land nearly erect, are round, tubular and ventricofe—but not ridged with longitudinal angles or prominent nerves, as the leaves of the Saracinia flava are; the aperture at top may be fhut up by a cap or lid, of a helmet form, which is an appendage of the leaf, turning over the orifice in that fingular manner; the ventricofe, or inflated part of the leaf, which is of a pale, but vivid green colour, is beautifully ornamented with rofe coloured ftuds or blifters, and the inner furface curioufly infcribed, or variegated, with crimfon veins or fibres. It was paft the time for flowering, but the plant in any fituation is a very great curiofity.
Next morning early we arofe from our hard fandy fea-beaten couch, being dilturbed the whole night by the troublefome mufquitoes; fet fail, and before night returned fafe to the city of Mobile.
CHAP.
I
chap. vii.
The next day after my return to Mobile, i found myfelf very ill, and not a little alarmed by an exceffive pain in my head, attended with a high fever; this diforder foon fettled in my eyes, nature purfuing that way to expel the malady, caufing a moft painful defiuxion of pellucid, corrofive water ; notwithstanding, i next day fet off on board a large trading boat, the property of a French gentleman, and commanded by him (he being general interpreter for the Chaclaw nation), on his return to his plantations, on the banks of Pearl river : our bark was large, well equipped for failing, and manned with three ftout Negroes, to row in cafe of necef-fity.   We embarked in the evening, and came to about fix miles below die town, at a pleafant farm, the mafter of which (who was a Frenchman) entertained us in a very polite and friendly manner. The wind favourable, next morning early we fet fail again, and having made extraordinary way, about noon came up abreaft of a high fteep bluff, or perpendicular cliff of high land, touching on the bay of the Weft coaft, wiiere we went on fhore, to give liberty to the flaves to reft and refiefh themfelves.   In the mean time i accompanied the captain on an excurfion into the fpacious level forefts, which fpread abroad from the Ihore to a great diftance back $ obferved veftiges of an ancient fortrefs and fettlement, and there yet remain a few pieces of iron cannon; but what principally attracted my notice, was three vaft iron pots or kettles, each of many hundred gallons contents: upon
inquiiy,
inquiry, my affociate informed me they were for the purpofe of boiling tar to pitch, there being vaft forefts of Pine trees in the vicinity of this place. In Carolina the inhabitants purfue a different method ; when they defign to make pitch, they dig large holes in the ground, near the tar kiln, which they line with a thick coat of good clay, into which they conduct a fufficient quantity of tar, and fet it on fire, differing it to flame and evaporate a length of time fufficient to convert it into pitch, and when cool, lade it into barrels, and fo on until they have confumed all the tar, or made a fufficient quantity of pitch for their purpofe.
After re-imbarking, and leaving tins bluff a few miles, we put in to fhore again, and came to a farm houfe, a little diftance from the water, where we fupplied ourfelves with Corn meal, Batatas, bacon, &c. The French gentleman (proprietor of the plantation) was near eighty years old, his hair almoft white with age, yet he appeared active, ftrong and mufcular; and his mother who was prefent, was one hundred and five years old, active and cheerful, her eyes feemed as brifk and fpark-ling as youth, but fhe was of a diminutive fize, not half the ftature and weight of her fon : it was now above fifty years fince fhe came into America from old France.
I embarked again, proceeding down the bay, and in the evening doubled the weft point or cape of the bay, being a promontory of the main, between which and Dauphin ifland, we entered the channel Oleron. From this time, until we arrived at this gentleman's habitation on Pearl river, I was incapable of making any obfervations, for my eyes could not bear the light, as the leaft ray admitted feemed
K e as
as the piercing of a fword : and by the time T had arrived at Pearl river, the excruciating pain had rendered me almoft frantic and ftupified for want of fleep, of which I was totally deprived ; and the corroding water, every few minutes, ftreaming from my eyes, had ftripped the fkin off my face, in the fame manner as fcalding water would have done, I continued three days with this friendly Frenchman, who tried every remedy, that he or his family could recollect, to administer relief, but to no purpofe. My fituation was now become dangerous, and I expected to fink under the malady, as I believe my friends here did. At laft the man informed me, that on Pearl ifland, about twelve miles diftance, refided an Englifh gentleman, who had a variety of medicines, and if I chofe to go to him he would take me there.   I accordingly bid adieu to this hofpita-ble family, and fet off with him in a convenient boat; before night arrived at Mr. Rumfey's, who received me kindly, and treated me with the utmoft humanity, during a ftay of four or five weeks. The night however after my arrival here I fincerely thought would be my laft, and my torments were fo extreme as to defire it: having Survived this tedious night, I in fome degree recovered my fenfes, and allied Mr. Rumfey if he had any Cantha-rides; he foon prepared a Wittering plainer for me, which I directed to be placed betwixt my moulders; this produced the defired relief, and more than an-fwered my expectation, for it had not been there a quarter of an hour before I fell afleep, and remained fo a whole day, when I awoke intirely relieved from pain, my fenfes in perfect harmony-and mind compofed.   I do not know how to exprefs myfelf on this occafion; all was peace and tranquillity: although I had my fight imperfectly, yet my
body
body feemed but as a light fhadow, and my exiftence as a pleafing delirium, for I fometimes doubted of its reality. I however from that moment began to mend, until my health was perfectly reftored; but it was feveral weeks before 1 could expofe my eyes to open day light, and at laft I found my left: eye confiderably injured, which differed the great-eft pain and weight of the difeafe.
' As foon as I acquired ftrength to walk about, and bear the leaft impreffion of open day light on my eyes, I made frequent, indeed I may fay daily excursions in and about this ifland, Strolling through its awful fhades, venerable groves and fublime forefts, confifting of the Live Oaks and Magnolia grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Olea Americana, Fagus fylvatica, Laur. SalTafras, Quercus hemi-Spherica, Tilia, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Morus, Gleditfta, Callicarpa, Halcfia, &c.
The ifland is fix or feven miles in length, and four or five in width, including the fait marfh.es and plains, which inveft it on every fide, I believe we may only except a narrow Strand at the South end of it, wafhed by Lake Borgone at the Regullets, which is a promontory compofed of banks of fea-jfhells and fand eaft up by the force of winds, and the furf of the Lake; thefe fhells are chiefly a fmall fpecies of white clam Shells, called les coquilles. Here are a few Shrubs growing on thefe Shelly heights, viz. Rhamnus ftangula, Sideroxylon, Myrica, Zanthoxylon clava Herculis, Juniperus Americana, Lyfuim falfurri • together with feveral new genera and fpecics of the herbaceous, and fufttuti-co'fe tribes, Croton, Stillingia, &c,, but particularly a-fpecics pf Mimofa (Mimofa vi'rgata), which in refpect of the elegancy of its pinnated leaves, can-E e 2 not
not be exceeded by any of that celebrated family. It is a perennial plant, fending up many nearly erect items from the root or fource ; thefe divide themfelves into many afcendant flender rods like branches, which are ornamented with double pinnated leaves, of a moft delicate formation. The compound flowers, are of a pale, greenilli yellow, collected together in a fmall oblong head, upon a long flender peduncle, the legumes are large, lu-nated arid flat, placed in a fpiralor contorted manner, each containing feveral hard compreffed feeds or little beans.
The interior and by far the greater part of the ifland confilts of high land; the foil to appearance a heap of fea fand in fome places, with an admixture of fea fhells; this foil, notwithstanding its fandy and fteril appearance, when diverted of its natural vegetative attire, has, from what caufe I know not, a continual refource of fertility within itfelf: the furface of the earth, after being cleared of its original vegetable productions, expofed a few feafons to the fun, winds, and triturations of agriculture, appears fcarcely any thing but heaps of white find, yet it produces Corn (Zea), Indigo, Batatas, Beans, Teas, Cotton, Tobacco, and almofl every fort or efculent vegetable, in a degree of Juxuiiancy very furprizing and unexpected, year after year, incef-fantly, without any addition of artificial manure Of compoft: there is indeed a foundation of llrong adhefive clay, confifting of fliata of various colours, which I difcovered by examining a well, lately dug in Mr. Rumfey's yard ; but lying at a great depth under the furface, the roots of fmall ihrubs and herbage, cannot reach near to it, or receive any benefit, unlefs we may fuppofe, that afcending
1 umts
fumes or exhalations, from this bed of clay, may have a vivific nutritive quality, and be received by the fibres of the roots, or being condenfed in the atmofphere by nocturnal chills, fall with dews- upon the leaves and twigs of thefe plants, and there ab-forbed, become nutritive or exhilerating to them.
Befides the native foreft trees and fhrubs already noted, manured fruit trees arrive in this ifland to the utmoft degree of perfection, as Pears, Peaches, Figs, Grape Vines, Plumbs, &c.; of the laft mentioned genus, there is a native fpecies grows in this ifland, which produces its large oblong crimfon fruit in prodigious abundance; the fruit, though of a moft enticing appearance, is rather too tart, yet agreeable eating, at fultry noon, in this burning climate; it affords a moft delicious and reviving marmalade, when preferved in fugar, and makes excellent tarts ; the tree grows about twelve feet high, the top fpreading, the branches fpiny and the leaves broad, nervous, ferrated, and terminating with a fubulated point.
My eyes having acquired fufficient Strength to endure the open day light, I fet off from Pearl ifland, for Manchac on the Miftifiipi, in ahandfome large boat with three Negroes to navigate her. Leaving the friendly Mr. Rumfey's feat on PearJ Ifland, we defcended a creek from the landing near his houfe ; this creek led us about a mile, winding through fait fedgy marfhes, into Lake Pontchartrain, along whofe North fhores we coaft-ed about twenty miles, having low, reedy marflies, on our ftarboard : thefe marfhes were very extenfive between us and the far diftant high forefts on the main : at evening the ihore became bolder, with fandy elevations, affording a few dwarf Oaks, Zan-E e 3 thoxylon,
thoxylon, Myrica and Rham. frangula. We came to in a little bay, kindled a fire, and after flipper betook ourfelves to repofe? our fituation open, airy and Cool, on clean fand banks ? we retted quietly, though fometimes routed by alarms from the crocodiles, which are here in great numbers, and of an enormous bulk and Strength.
Next day early we got under way, purfuing our former courfe, nearly Weftward, keeping the North fhore feveral leagues.   Immediately back of this high fandy ftrand, (which is calt up by the beating furf and winds, letting from feaward, acrofs the wideft part of the lake) the ground fuddenly falls, and becomes extenfive flat Cyprefs fwamps, the fources of creeks and rivers, which run into the lake, or Pearl River, or other places? the high foretts of the main now gradually approaching the lake, advance up to the very more, where we find houfes, plantations and new fettlements: we came to at one of them charmingly fituated, fet fail again, and came up to the mouth of the beautiful Taen-fapaoa, which takes that name from a nation of In-dians,who formerly poffefred the territories lyingon its banks, which are fertile and delightful regions. This river is narrow at its entrance, but deep, and faid to be navigable for large barks and perriauguas upwards of fifty miles: juft within its capes, on the leeward fhore, are heights, or a group of low hills (compofed of the fmall clam fhells, called Jes coquilles), which gradually deprefs as we retreat back from the river, and the furface of the land is more level; thefe fhellsdiffolving and mixing with the furface, render the vegetative mould black, rich, and productive.   Here are a few habitations, and fome fields cleared and cultivated ? but the
inhabitants
inhabitants neglect agriculture, and generally employ themfelves in hunting and fifhing: we however furniihed ouifelves here with a fumciency of excellent Batatas. I obferved no new vegetable productions, except a fpecies of Cleome (Cleome lu-pinifolia) ; this plant pofieftes a very ftrong fcent, fomewhat like Gum Aftafetida, notwkhftanding which the inhabitants give it a place in foups and fauces.
From Taenfapaoa, we ftill coafted Weftward, three or four miles, to the ftraits that communicate with the lake Maurepas; entering which and continu-ingfix or eightmiles, havinglow fwampy land oneach fide, the channel divides, forming an bland in the middle of the pafs: we took the right hand channel, which continues three or four miles, when the channels reunite in full view of the charming lake. We came to at an elevated point, orpromontory, on the ftarboard main fhore, it being the Nortli cape,from whence I enjoyed a very pleafing and complete view of the beautiful lake Maurepas; entering which next morning, a fteady favourable gale foon wafted us nine or ten miles over to the mguth of the river Amite; afcended between its low banks j the land on each fide a level fwamp, about two fet above the furface of the water, fupporting a thick foreft: of trees, confifting chiefly of Fraxirius, Nyfta aquatica, Nyfta multiflora, Cupreffus difticha, Quercus phillos, Acerrubrum, Ac. negundo, Acer glaucum, Sambucus,Laurus Borbonia, Caipinus,Ulmus, and others.   The foil or earth humid, black and rich. There is fcarcely a perceptible current: the water dark, deep, turgid and ftagnate, being from Ihore to ftiore covered with a fcum or pellicle of a green and purplifh eaft, and perpetually throwing up Ee4 from
from the muddy bottom to its furface minute air bladders or bubbles: in fhort, thefe dark loathfome waters, from every appearance, feem to be a ftrong extract: or tincture of the leaves of the trees, herbs and reeds, ariftng from the fhores, and which almoft overfpread them, and float on the furface, infomuch that a great part of thefe Stagnate rivers, during the Summer and autumnal SeaSons, are conftrained to paSs under a load of grafs and weeds ; which are continually vegetating and fpreading over the furface from the banks, until the rifing floods of winter and fpring, ruihing down from the main, fweep them away, and purify the waters.   Late in the evening we difcovered a narrow ridge of land clofe to the river bank, high and dry enough to fufter us to kindle a fire, and fpace fufficient to fpread our bedding on.   But here,fire and fmoke were infuf-hcient to expel the hofts of mufquitoes that invested our camp, and kept us awake during the long and tedious night, So that the aligators had no chance of taking us napping.   "We were glad to riSe early in the morning, proceeding up the Amite. The land now gradually rifes, the banks become higher, the foil drier and firmer four or five feet above the furface of the river ; the trees are of an incredible magnitude, particularly Platanus occidentalis, Frax-inus, ulmus, Quercus hemifpherica, &c. The Canna Indica grows here in furprifing luxuriance, prefenting a glorious ihow; the ftem rifes fix, feven and nine feet high, terminating upwards with fpikes of fcarlet flowers.
Now having advanced near thirty miles up the Amite, we arrived at a very large plantation, the property of a Scotch gentleman, who received me
with
with civility,entreating me to refide with him; but being impatient to get to the river, and pleading the neceffity of profecuting my travels with alacrity, on account of the feafon being fo far advanced, I was permitted to proceed, and fet off next morning. Still afcending the Amite about twenty miles farther, arrived at the forks, where the Iberville comes in on the left hand, afcending which a litde way, we foon came to the landing, where are warehouses fordepofiting merchandize, this being the extremity of navigation up this canal, and here fmall veffels load and unload. From this place to Manchac, on the banks of the Miffiffipi, juft above the mouth of the canal, is nine miles by land ; the road ftraight, fpacious, and perfectly level, under the fhadow of a grand foreit; the trees of the firft order in magnitude and beauty, as Magnolia grandiflora, Liriodendron tulipifera, Platanus, Juglans nigra, Fraxinus excelfior, Morus rubra, Laurus faffafras, Laurus Borbonia, Tilea, Liquidambar Ityraciflua, &c.
At evening arrived at Manchac, when I directed my fteps to the banks of the Miffiffipi, where I flood for a time as it were fafcinated by the magnificence of the great fire* of rivers.
The depth of the river here, even in this feafon, at its loweft ebb, is aftoniihing, not lels than forty fathoms; and the width about a mile or fomewhat lefs: but it is not expanfion of furface alone that ftrikes us with ideas of magnificence ; the altitude and theatrical afcents of its penfile banks, the Steady courfe of the mighty flood, the trees, high forefts, even every particular object, as well as lbcie-
• Which is the meaning of the word Mifliflipi.
ties,
ties, bear the (lamp of liiperiority and excellence ; all unite or combine in exhibiting a profpect of the grand fublime. The banks of the river at Manchac, though frequently overflowed by the vernal inundations, are about fifty feet perpendicular height above the furface of the water (by which the channel at thofe times mud be about two hundred and ninety feet deep); and thefe precipices being an accumulation of the fediment of muddy waters, annually brought down with the floods, of alight loamy confif-tence, continually cracking and parting, prefent to view deep yawning chafms, in time fplit off, as the active perpetual cur: entundermines; and the mighty malTes of earth tumble headlong into the river, whofe impetuous current Sweeps away and lodges them elfewhere. There are yet vifible fome remains of a high artificial bank, in front of the buildings of the town, formerly call up by the French, to refill, the inundations, but found to be ineffectual, and now in part tumbled down the precipice : as the river daily encroaches on the bluff, fome of the habitations are in danger, and mull be very foon removed or Swallowed up in the deep gulph of waters. A few of the buildings that have been eftablifhed by the Englifh, fince taking pofieffion of the colony, are large and commodious, particularly the warehoufes of Meifrs. Swanfon & Co. Indian traders and merchants.
The Spaniards have a fmall fortrefs and garrifon on the point of land below the Iberville, clofe by the banks of the river, which has a communication with Manchac, by a flender narrow wooden bridge acrofs the channel of Iberville, fupported on wooden pillars, and not a bow fliot from the habitations of Manchac.   The Iberville in the fummer
feafon
feafon is dry, and its bed twelve or fifteen feet a-bove the furface of the Mifliflippi; but in the winter and fpring has a great depth of water, and a very-rapid ftream which flows into the Amite, thence down through the lakes into the bay of Pearls to the ocean.
Having recommendations to the inhabitants of Batonrouge, now called New-Richmond, more than forty miles higher up the river, one of thefe gentlemen being prefent at Manchac, gave me a friendly and polite invitation to accompany him on his return home. A pleafant morning? we fat off after breakfaft, well accommodated in a handfome convenient boat, rowed by three blacks. Two miles above Manchac we put in to fhore at Alabama: this Indian village is delightfully fituated on feveral fweiiing green hills, gradually afcending from the verge of the river: the people are a remnant of the ancient Alabama nation, who inhabited the Eaft arm of the great Mobile river, which bears their name to this day, now pofiefied by the Creeks or Mufcogulges, who conquered the former.
My friend having purchafed forne bafkets and earthen-ware, the manufactures of the people, we left the village, and proceeding twelve miles higher tip the river, landed again at a very large and well cultivated plantation, where we lodged all night. Obferved growing in a fpacious garden adjacent to the houfe, many ufeful as well as curious exotics, particularly the delicate and fweetTube-rofe (Polyanthus tuberofa): it grows here in the open garden; the flowers were very large and abundant on the ftems, which were five, fix or feven feet high, but I faw none here having double flowers. In one corner of the garden was a pond or marfti, round about
which
which grew luxuriantly the Scotch grafs (Panianri hirtellum, gramen panicum maximum, fpica divifa, ariftis armatum, Sloan, Jam. Cat. p. 30): the people introduced this valuable grafs' from the Weft-India iflands : they mow or reap it at any time, and feed it green to cows or horfes; it is nourifhing food for all cattle. The Humble plant (Mimofa pudica) grows here five or fix feet high, rambling like Brier vines over the fences and fhrubs, all about the garden. The people here fay it is an indigenous plant, but this I doubt, as it is not feen growing wild in the forefts and fields, and it differs in no refpect from that which we protect in green houfes and ftoves, except in the extent and luxuri-ancy of its branches, which may be owing to the productive virgin mould and temperature of the climate. They however pay no attention to its culture, but rather condemn it as a noxious trou-blefome weed, for wherever it gets footing, it fpreads itfelf by its feed in fo great abundance as to opprefs and even extirpate more ufeful vegetables.
Next day we likewife vifited feveral delightful and fpacious plantations on the banks of the river, during our progrefs upwards : in the evening arrived at my friend's habitation, a very delightful villa, with extenfive plantations of Corn (Zea), Indigo, Cotton and fome Rice.
A day or two after our arrival we agreed upon a vifit to Point Coupe, a flourifhing French fettlement on the Spaniih fhore of the Mifliflipi.
Early next morning we fet off in a neat Cyprefs boat with three oars, proceeding up the river; and by night got to a large plantation near the White
cliffs,
cliffs, now called Brown's cliffs, in honour of the late governor of Weft Florida, now of the Bahama Iflands, who is proprietor of a large diftrict of country, lying on and adjacent to the Cliffs, At the time of my refidence with Mr. Rumfey at Pearl ifland, governor Brown, then on his paffage to his government of the Bahamas, paid Mr. Rumfey a vifit, who politely introduced me to his excellency, acquainting him with my character and purfuits : he defired me to explore his territory, and give him my opinion of the quality of the White plains.
Augufl 27th, 1777, having in readinefs horfes well equipt, early in the morning we fet off for the plains.   About a mile from the river we crofled a deep gully and fmall rivulet, then immediately entered the Cane forefts, following a ftraight avenue cut through them, off from the river, which continued about eight miles, the ground gradually but imperceptibly rifing before us: when at once opened to view expanfive plains,which are a range of native graffy fields of many miles extent, lying parallel with the river, furrounded and interfered with Cane brakes and high forefts of ftately trees; the foil black, extremely rich and productive, but the virgin mould becomes thinner and lefs fertile as it verges on to the plains, which are fo barren as fcarcely to produce a bufti or even grafs, in the middle or higheft parts. The upper ftratum or furface of the earth is a whitifh clay or chalk, with veins of fea fhells, chiefly of thofe little clams called les co-quilles, or interfperfed with the white earth or clay, fo tenacious and hard as to render it quite fteril; fcarcely any vegetable growth to be feen, except ihort grafs, or cruftaccous moffes; and fome places quite bare, where it is on the furface ; but where it
lies
lies from eighteen inches to two or three feet below, it has the virtue of fertilizing the virgin mould above, rendering it black, humid, foapy, and incredibly productive.
I obferved two or three fcrubby Pine trees or rather dwarf bullies, upon the high eft ridge of thefe plains, which arc viewed here as a curiofity, there being no Pine forefts within feveral leagues diftance from the banks of this great river, but, on the contrary, fecmingly an endlcfs wildernefs of Canes, and the raoft magnificent forefts of the trees already noted, but particularly Platanus occidentalis, Liriodendron, Magnolia grandiflora, Liqn dambar ftyraciftua, Juglans nigra, Juglans exaltata, Tilca, Morus rub a, Gleclitfia triacan-thus, Laurus Borbonia, and Laurus fafiafras; this laft grows here to a, vaft tree, forty or fifty feet Straight trunk ; its timber is found to be ufeful, fawn into boards and fcantling, or hewn into pofts for building and fencing.
On the more fertile borders of the plains, adjoining the Surrounding forefts, are Sideroxylon, Pyrus coronaria, and Mrawberry vines (Fraga-ria) but no fruit on them ; the inhabitants affined me they bore fruit in their feafon, very large: of a fine red colour, delicious and fragrant.
Having made our tour and obfervations on the White plains, we returned to the river at the clofe of the day,and next morning fat off for Point Coupe: paffed under the high painted cliffs, and then let our courfe acrofs the Miftiflippi, which is here near two milesover: touched at a large ifland near the middle of the river, being led there, a little out
fouth america.
of our way, in purfuit of a bear croffing from the main, but he out-fwam us, reached the ifland, and made a fafe retreat in the forefts entangled with vines; we however purfued him on fhore, but to no purpofe. After refting a while, we re-embarked and continued on our voyage, coafting the Eaft fhore of the ifland to the upper end ; here we landed again, on an extended projecting point of clean fand and pebbles, where were to be feen pieces of coal flicking in the gravel and fand, together with other fragments of the foflil kingdom, brought down by inundations and lodged there. We obferved a large kind of mufcle in the fand; the fhell of an oval form, having horns or protuberances near half an inch in length and as thick as a crow quill, which I fuppofe Serve the purpofe of grapnels to hold their ground againft: the violence of the current. Here were great numbers of wild fowl wading in the fhoal water that covers the fandy points, to a vaft diftance from the fhores : they were geefe, brant, gannet, and the great and beautiful whooping crane (grus al-ber.) Embarked again, doubled the point of the ifland and arrived at Point Coupe in the evening.
We made our vifit to a French gentleman, an ancient man and wealthy planter, who, according to the hiflory he favoured us with of his own life and adventures, muft have been very aged; his hair was of afdky white, yet his complexion was florid and conftitution athletic. He faid that foon after he came to America, with many families of his countrymen, they afcended the river to the Cliffs of the Natches, where they fat down, being entertained by the natives; and under cover of a ftrong fortrefs and garrifon, eftablifhed a Settlement, and by cultivating the land and forming
i plan-
plantations, in league and friendfhip with the Indians, in a few years they became a populous, rich and growing colony; when through the imprudent and tyrannical conduct of the commandant towards the Natches, the ancients of the country, a very powerful and civilized nation of red men, who were fovcreigns of the foil, and pofTeffed the country round about them, they became tired of thefe comers, and exafperated at their cruelty and licentioufncfs, at length determining to revenge themfelves of fuch inhumanity and ingratitude, fecretly confpired their destruction; and their meafures were fo well concerted with other Indian tribes, that if it had not been for the treachery of one of their princeffes, with whom the commander was in favour (for by her influence her nation attempted thedeitruction of the fettlement,before theirauxiliariesjoined them, which afforded an opportunity for fome few of the fcttlers to efcape), they would have fully accomplished their purpofe.   However the fettlement was entirely broken up, moft of the inhabitants being flaughtered in one night, and the few who efcaped betook themfelves to their canoes, defcencling the river until they arrived at this place, where they etlablifhed themfelves again; and this gentleman had only time and opportunity to take into his boat one heifer calf, which he allured us was the mother of the numerous herds he now poffeffes, confifting of many hundred head. Here is now a very refpedtable village, defended by a ftrong fortrefs and garrifon of Spaniards, the commander being governor of the diftrict.
The French here are able, ingenious and m-duftrious planters: they live eafy and plentifully, and are far more regular and commendable in the
enjoys
North America*
433
enjoyment of their earnings than their neighbours the Englifh: their drefs of their own manufactures, well wrought and neatly made up, yet not extravagant or foppilh; manners and converfa-tion ealy, moral and entertaining.
Next morning we fat on again on our return home, and called by the way at the Cliffs, which is a perpendicular bank or bluff, rifing up out of the river near one hundred feet above the prefent. furface of the water, whofe active current fweeps along by it. From eight or nine feet below the loamy vegetative mould at top, to within four or five feet of the water, thefe cliffs prefent to view ftrata of clay, marie and chalk, of all colours, as brown, red, yellow, white, blue and purple ; there are feparate ftrata of thefe various colours, as well as mixed or particoloured : the lowefi ftratum next the water is exactly of the fame black mud or rich foil as the adjacent low Cyprefs fwamps, above and below the bluff; and here in the cliffs we fee vaft flumps of Cyprels and other trees, which at this day grow in thefe low, wet fwamps, and which range on a level with them. Thefe flumps are found, Hand upright, and feem to be rotted off about two or three feet above the fpread of their roots; their trunks, limbs, 5cc. lie in all directions about them. But when thefe fwampy forefts were growing, and by what caufe they were cut off and overwhelmed by the Various ftrata of earth, which now rife near one hundred feet above, at the brink of the cliffs, and two or three times that height but a few hundred yards back, are enquiries perhaps not eafily anfwered. The fweiiing heights rifing gradually over and beyond this precipice are now adorned with high forefts of ftately Magnolia, Liquidambar, Fagus, F f Quercus,
Quercus, Laurus, Morus, Juglans, Tilia, Ha-lefia, iEfculus, Callicarpa, Liriodendron, &c. Arrived in. the evening at the plantation below the Cliffs, and the next day got fafe back to my friend's habitation.
Obferved few vegetable productions different from what grow in Carolina and Georgia; perhaps in the fpring and early fummer feafon, here may be fome new plants, particularly in the high forefts and ridges, at fome diftance from the river : there is however growing in the rich high lands, near on the banks of the river, which I obferved in the fettlement of Baton Rouge, an ar-borefcent aromatic vine, which mounts to the tops of the highelt trees, by twilling or writhing Spirally round them; fome of thefe vines are as thick as a man's leg, of a foft fpungy texture, and flexible, covered with a Cinnamon coloured bark, which is highly aromatic or fpicy. The large oblong leaves fit oppofite on the branches, and are of a full deep green colour; but its feafon of flowering being paft, and the feed fcatter-ed, I am entirely ignorant to what genus it belongs ; perhaps it is a non-defcript or new genus. Here is likewife a new and beautiful fpecies of Verbena, with decumbent branches and lacerated deep green leaves; the branches terminate with corymbi of violet blue flowers : this pretty plant grows in old fields where there is a good foil.
The fevere diforder in my eyes fubverted the plan of my peregrinations, and contracted the lpan of my pilgrimage South-Weltward.
This
difappointment affected me very fenfibly, but rc-fignation and reafon returning their empire over
my
my mind, I Submitted, and determined to return to Carolina.
Receiving information that the company's Schooner was ready toTail for Mobile, I embarked on board a trading boat for Manchac, where arriving in the evening, I took leave next morning of Mefffs. SwanSon and Co. and Set off Sor the forks of the Amite, and next day fat fail, descending the tardy current of the Amite. Observing two bears croffing the river a-head, though our pieces were ready charged, and the yawl along iide to receive us, we purSued them in vain, they Swam Swiftly acrofs and efcaped in the forefts on the ifland of Orleans. The breeze dying away at evening, we came to anchor, and had variety of amufements at hiking and fowling.
Next day, November 13th, 1777, with a Steady leading breeze, entered and failed over the lake Maurepas, and through the ftreights into the Pontchartrain, and continued under Sail; but at midnight, by keeping too near the Weft fhore, we ran aground on a fand-bar, where we lay heating the hard fandy bottom until morning, and our yawl parting from us in the night, which >ve never recovered, we were left to the mercy of the winds and floods; but before noon the wind coming brifkly from North-Eaft, driving the fea into the lake, we got off", made fail again, and before night paffed through the Regullcts, entering the ocean through the bay of Pearls, failing through the found betwixt Cat ifland and the ftrand of the continent; paffmg by the beautiful bay St. Louis, into which defcend many delightful rivers, which flow from the lower or maritime fettlements ot the Chactaws or Flathead's. Continuing through the found between the oyfter
F f 2 banks
banks and ihoals of Ship and Horn iflands, and the high and bold coaft of Biloxi on the main, got through the narrow pafs Aux Chriftians, and foon came up abreaft of Ifle Dauphin, betwixt whofe Shoals and the Weft Cape of Mobile Bay we got aground on fome ftinken oyfter banks; hut next day a brifk Southerly wind raifed the fea on the coaft, which lifted us off" again, and letting fail, we mot through the Pafs au Oleron, and entering the bay, by night came to anchor fafe again at the city of Mobile.
After having made up my collect.ions of growing roots, feeds and curious fpecimens, left them to the care of Melfrs. Swanfon and M'Gillavry, to be forwarded to Dr. Fothcrgill of London. I prepared to fet off again to Augufta in Georgia, through the Creek Nation, the only practicable way of returning by land, being fruftrated of purfuing my intended rout which 1 had meditated, through the territories of the Siminoles or Lower Creeks, they being a treacherous people, lying fo far from the eye and controul of the nation with whom they are confederate, that there had lately been depredations and murders committed by them at the bay of Apalache, on fome families of white people who were migrating from Georgia, With an intention of fettling on the Mobile. Having to pafs the diftance of near two hundred miles to the firft town of the nation, through a folitary, uninhabited wildernefs, the bloody held of Schambe, where thofe contending bands of American bravos, Creeks and Chactaws, often meet in dire conflict; for the better convenience and fecurity, I joined company with a caravan of traders, now about fet-ting off for the nation.
Obferved
Obferved growing in a garden in Mobile, two large trees of the Juglans pecan, and the Diof-corea bulbifcra : this laft curious plant bears a large kidney fhaped root, one, two or three at the bolom of the leaves, feveral feet from the ground, as they climb up poles or Supports fet by their roots; thefe roots when boiled or roafted are efteemed a pleafant whoh-iome food, and tafte like the ordinary Yam.
Ff3 CHAP-
•
CHAP. VIII.
November 27th, 1777, fat off from Mobile, in a large boat with the principal trader of the company, and at evening arrived at Taenfa, where were the pack-horfemen with the merchandize, and next morning as foon as we had our horfes in readinefs, I took my laft leave of Major Farmer, and left Taenfa. Our caravan confifted of between twenty and thirty horfes, Sixteen of which were loaded, two pack-horfernen, and myfelf, under the direction of Mr. Tap----y the
chief trader. One of our young men was a Muftee Creek, his mother being aChactaw flave, and his father a half breed, betwixt a Creek and a white man. I loaded one horfe with my effects, fome prefents to the Indians, to enable me to pur-t hafe a frefh horfe, in cafe of neceffity ; for my old trufty flavc which had ferved me faithfully almoft three years, having carried me on his back at lcaft fix thoufand miles, was by this time almoft worn out, and I expected every hour he would give up, efpecially after I found the manner of thefe traders'travelling. They feldom decamp" until the fun is high and hot; each one having a whip made of the toughed cow-ikin, they ftarr all at once, the horfes having ranged themfelves in regular Indian file, the veteran in the van, and the younger in the rear; then the chief drives with the crack of his whip, and a whoop or fhriek, which rings through the forefts and plains, fpeaks in Indian, commanding them to proceed, which is repeated by all the company, when wc (tart at once, keeping up a briik and conltant trot, 1 which
which is inccffantly urged and continued as long as the miferable creatures are able to move forward ; and then come to camp, though frequently in the middle of the afternoon, which is the pleafanteft time of the day for travelling: and every horfe has a bell on, which being flopped when we ftart in the morning with a twill of grafs or leaves, foon makes out, and they are never flopped again during the day. The con-ftant ringing and clattering of the bells, fmack-ing of the whips, whooping and too frequent curling thefe miferable quadrupeds, caufe an in-ceffant uproar and confufion, inexpreflibly difa-greeable.
After three days travelling in this mad manner, my old fervant was on the point of giving out, and feveral of the company's horfes were tired, but were relieved of their burthens by the led horfes which attended for that purpofe. I was now driven to difagreeable extremities, and had no other alternative, but either to leave my horfe in the woods, pay a very extravagant hire for a doubtful pailage to the Nation, or feparate myfelf from my companions, and wait the recovery of my horfe alone : the chief gave me no other comfortable advice in this dilemma, than that, there was a company of traders on the road a-head of us from the Nation, to Mobile, who had a large gang of led horfes with them for fale, when they fhould arrive ; and expected from the advice which he had received at Mobile before we fet off from thence, that this company mull be very near to us, and probably would be up to-morrow, or at lcafl in two or three days: and this man condefcended fo far as to moderate a little his mode of travelling, that 1 might have a F f 4 chance
chance of keeping up with them until the even* ing of next day ; befides I had the comfort of obferving that the traders and pack-horfemcn carried themfelves towards me with evident figns of humanity and friendihip, often expreffing fentiments of Sympathy, and faying I muft not be left alone to pcrifh in the wildcrnefs.
Although my apprehenfions on this occafion were fomcwjiat tumultuous, fince there was little hope, on the principle of reafon, fhould I be left alone, of efcaping cruel captivity, and perhaps being murdered by the Cha&aws (for the company of traders was my only fecurity, as the Indians never attack the traders on the road, though they be trading with nations at enmity 1 with them) yet I had fecret hopes of relief ancj. deliverance, that cheered me, and infpired confidence and peace of mind.
Now I am come within the atmofphere of the Illicium groves, how reanimating is the fragrance! every part of this plant above ground poifeffes an aromatic fcent, hut the large ftillated. pericarpe is the moft fragrant part of it, which Continually perfpires an oleagenous fweat, as warm and vivific as cloves or mace. I never faw it grow naturally further North than Lat. 33V on the Mobile river and its branches, and but one place in Eaft Florida near Lake George, Lat. 28".
About the middle of the afternoon, we were joyfully furprifed at the diftant profpect of the trading company coming up, and we foon met, fainting each other feveral times with a general "Indian whoop, or fhout of friendihip ; then each company came to camp within a few paces of
each other; and before night I ftruck up a bargain with them for a handfome ftrong young horfe, which colt me about ten pounds Sterling. I was now constrained to leave my old flave behind, to feed in rich cane paftures, where he was to remain and recruit until the return of his new mafter from Mobile; from whom I extorted a promife to ufe him gently, and if poftible, not to make a pack-horle of him.
Next morning we decamped, proceeding again on my travels, now alert and cheerful. Crofted a brifk rivulet ripling over a gravelly bed, and winding through aromatic groves of the Illicium Floridanum, then gently defcended to the high forefts, leaving Deadman's creek, for at this creek a white man was found dead, fuppofed to have been murdered, from which circumltancc it has its name.
A few days before we arrived at the Nation, we met a company of emigrants from Georgia ; a man, his wife, a young woman, feveral young children, and three flout young men, with about a dozen horfes loaded with their property. They informed us their defign was to fettle on the Alabama, a few miles above the confluence of the Tombigbe.
Being now near the Nation, the chief trader with another of our company fat off a-head for Ins town, to give notice to the Nation, as he laid, of his approach with the merchandize, each of them taking the beft horfe they could pick out of the gang, leaving the goods to the conduct: and care of the young Muftee and myfelf. Early in the evening we came to the banks of a large deep creek, a confiderable branch of the Alabama :
bama : the waters ran furioufly, being overcharged with the floods of rain which had fallen the day before. We difcovered immediately that there was no poflibility of croffing it by fording ; its depth and rapidity would have fwept our horfes, loads and all, inftantly from our fight: my companion, after confideration, faid we muft make a raft to ferry over our goods, which we immediately fet about, after unloading our horfes and turning them out to range.   I undertook to colled dry canes, and my companion, dry timber or logs and vines to bind them together : having gathered the neceffary materials, and laid them in order on the brinks of the river, ready to work upon, wc betook ourfelves to repofe, and. early next morning fat about building olir raft. This was a novel fcene to me, and I could not, until finifhed and put to practice, well comprehend how it could poffibly anfwer the effect: defired. In the firft place wc laid, parallel to each other, dry, found trunks of trees, about nine feet in length, and eight or nine inches diameter; which binding faft together with grape vines and withs, until we had formed this firft floor, about twelve or fourteen feet in length, we then'bound the dry canes in bundles, each near as thick as a man's body, with which we formed the upper ftratum, laying them clofe by the fide of each other and binding them faft: after this manner our raft was conftructed.    Then having two ftrong grape vines, each long enough to crofs the river, we fattened one to each end of the raft; which now being completed, and loading on as much as it would fafely carry, the Indian took the end of one of the vines in his mouth, plunged into the river and fwam over with it, and the vine fixed to the other end was committed to
my
my charge, to fteady the raft and haul it back again after being unloaded.   As foon as he had fafe landed and hauled taught his vine, I pulhed off the raft, which he drew over as quick as pof-fible, I (readying it with my vine : in this manner, though with inexpreffible danger of lofing our effects, we ferried all fafe over.   The laft load, with other articles, contained my property, with all my clothes, which 1 Stripped off, ex-cept my breeches, for they contained matters of more value and confequence than all the reft of my property put together ; befides I did not choofe to expofe myfelf entirely naked to the alligators and ferpents in croffing the flood. Now feeing all the goods fafe over, and the horfes at a landing place on the banks of the river about fifty yards above, I drove them all in together, when, feeing them fafe landed, I plunged in after them, and being a tolerable fwimmer, foon reached the oppofite ihore.   But my difficulties at this place were not yet at an end, for our horfes all landed juft below the mouth of a con ftderablc branch of this river, of fifteen or twenty feet width, and its perpendicular banks almoft as many feet in height above its fwift waters, over which we were obliged to carry every article of our effec~ts, and this by no other bridge than a fiipling felled acrofs it, which is called a raccoon bridge; and over this my Indian friend would trip as quick and light as that quadruped, with one hundred weight of leather on his back, when I was fcarcely able to fhuftle myfelf along over it aftride. At laft having rc-packed and fat off again, without any material occurrence intervening, in the evening we arrived at the banks of the great Tallapoofe river, and came to camp under fhelter of fome Indian cabins, in expanlive
fields,
fields, clofe to the river bank, oppofite the town of Savannuca. Late in the evening a young white man, in great hafle and teeming confu-fion, joined our camp, who immediately related, that being on his journey from Penfacola, it happened that the very night after we had palled the company of emigrants, he mef them and joined their camp in the evening • when, juft at dark, the Chactaws furrounded them, plundered their camp, and carried all the people off captive, except himfelf, he having the good fortune to efcape with his horfe, though clofely purfued.
Next morning very early, though very cold and the furface of the earth as hoary as if covered with a fall of fnow, the trader handing on the oppofite fhore entirely naked, except a breech-clout, and encircled by a company of red men in the like habit, hailed us, and prefently, with canoes, brought us all over with the merchandize, and conducted us fafe to the town of Mucclaffe, a mile or two diftant.
The next day was a day of reft and audience : the following was devoted to feafting, and the evening concluded in celebrating the nuptials of the young Muftee with a Creek girl of Mucclaffe, daughter of the chief and filter to our trader's wife. The trader's houfe and ftorcs formed a compleat fquare, after the mode of the habitations of the Mufcogulges, that is, four oblong buildings of equal dimenfions, two oppofite to each other, encompaffmg an area of about a quarter of an acre; on one fide of this a fence enclofed a yard of near an acre of ground, at one ot the farther corners of which a booth or pavilion was formed of green boughs, having two Laurel trees planted in front (Magnolia i grandi-
grandiflora). This was the fecret nuptial chamber. Dancing, mufic and feafting continued the forepart of the night, and towards morning the happy couple privately withdrew, and continued alone all the next day, no one prefuming to approach the facred, myfterious thalamc.
The trader obliged me with his company on a vifit to the Alabama, an Indian town at the confluence of the two fine rivers, the Tallapoofe and Coofau, which here refign their names to the great Alabama, where are to be feen traces of the ancient French fortrefs, Thouloufe; here are yet lying, half buried in the earth, a few pieces of ordnance, four and fix pounders. I obferved, in a very thriving condition, two or three very large apple trees, planted here by the French. This is, perhaps, one of the moft eligible fitu-ations for a city in the world; a level plain between the conflux of two majeftic rivers, which are exactly of equal magnitude in appearance, each navigable for velfels and perriauguas at leaft five hundred miles above it, and fpreading their numerous branches over the moft fertile and delightful regions, many hundred miles before we reach their fources in the Apalachean mountains.
Stayed all night at Alabama, where we had a grand entertainment at the public fquare, with mufic and dancing, and returned next day to Mucclafle ; where being informed of a company of traders about letting off from Tuckabatche for Augufta, I made a vifit to that town to know the truth of it, but on my arrival there they were gone ; but being informed of another caravan who were to ftart from the Ottaffe town in two
or
or three weeks time, I returned to Mucclaffe in older to prepare for my departure.
On my arrival, I was not a little furprifed at a tragical revolution in the family of my friend the trader, his ftorcs Unit up, and guarded by a party" of Indians: in a few minutes however, the whole affair was related to me. It appeared that this fon of Adonis, had been detected in an amorous intrigue, with the wife of a young chief, the day after his arrival : the chief was out on a hunt, but arrived next day ; and upon information of the affair, the fact being confirmed, he with his friends and kindred refolved to exact legal fatis-laction, which in this cafe is cutting off both ears of the delinquent, clofe to the head, which is called cropping. This being; determined upon, he took the moft fecrct and effectual methods to effect his purpofe. About a dozen young Indian fellows, conducted by their chief (the injured hufband), having provided and armed themfelves with knotty cudgels of green Hiccory, which they concealed under their mantles, in the duik of the evening paid a pretended friendly vifit to the trader at his own houfe, when the chief feigning a private matter of bufinefs, took him afide in the yard; then whiffling through his ringers (the fignal preconcerted) he was inftantly furrounded, knocked down, and then ftripped to his fkin, and beaten with their knotty bludgeons ; however he had the fubtilty to feign himfelf fpeechlefs before they really killed him, which he fuppofed was their intention : when he had now lain for dead, the executioner drew out his knife with an intention of taking off his ears ; this fmall refpitc gave him time to reflect a little ;
when
when he inftantly fprang up, ran off, leaped the fence, and had the good fortune to get into a dark fwamp, overgrown with vines and thickets, where he miraculoufly eluded the earned researches of his enemies, and finally made a Cafe retreat to the houfe of his father-in-law, the chief of the town, throwing himfelf under his protection, who gave his word that he would do him all the favour that lay in his power. This account I had from his own mouth, for hearing of my return, the next morning after my arrival, he lent a trufty meflenger, by whom I found means of accefs to him.   He farther informed me, that there had been a council of the chiefs of the town convened, to deliberate on the affair, and their final determination was that he muft lofe his ears, or forfeit all his goods, which amounted to upwards of one thoufand pounds Sterling, and even that forfeiture would not Save his cars, unlcfs Mr. Golphin interpofed in his behalf; and after all, the injured Indian declares that he will have his life. He entreated me with tears to make what Speed I could to Silver Bluff, rcprefent his dangerous fituation to Mr. Golphin, and folicit that gentleman's moft fpcedy and effectual interference; which 1 allured him i would undertake.
Now having all things prepared for my departure, early in the morning, after taking leave of my diftrefTcd friend the trader of Mucclaffe, I fat off; paffed through continued plantations and Indian towns on my way up the Tallapoofe river, being every where treated by the inhabitants with marks of friendihip, even as though I had been their countryman and relation. Called by the way at the beautiful town of Coolome,
where
where I tarried fome time with Mr. Germany the chief trader of the town, an elderly gentleman, but active, cheerful and very agreeable, who received and treated me with the utmoft civility and friendihip : his wife is a Creek woman, of a very amiable and worthy character and ilifpofition, induftrious, prudent and affectionate * and by her he had feveral children, whom he is defirous to fend to Savanna or Charleflon, for their education, but cannot prevail on his wife to confent to it: this affair affects him very fen-fibly, for he has acumulatcd a pretty fortune by his induflry and commendable conduct.
Leaving Coolome, I re-crofled the river at Tuccabache, an ancient and large town ; thence continued up the river, and at evening arrived at Attaffe, where I continued near a week, waiting the preparations of the traders, with whom I was to join in company to Augufta.
The next day after my arrival, I was introduced to the ancient chiefs, at the public fquare or areopagus ; and in the evening, in company with the traders, who are numerous in this town, repaired to the great rotunda, where were alfem-bled the greatefl number of ancient venerable chiefs and warriors that I had ever beheld : we fpent the evening and greater part of the night together, in drinking Canine and fmoking Tobacco. The great council houfe or rotunda is appropriated to much the lame purpofe as the public fquare, but more private, and feems particularly dedicated to political affairs; women and youth are never admitted ; and I fuppofe it is death for a female to prefume to enter the door, or approach within its pale. It is a vaft conical building or circular dome, capable of
accommo-
accommodating many hundred people ; constructed and furnilhed within, exactly in the lame manner as thofe of the Cherokees already defcribed, but much larger than any I had feen of them : there are people appointed to take care of it, to have it daily Iwept clean, and to provide canes for fuel, or to give light.
As their virgils and manner of conducting their vefpers and myftical lire in this rotunda, are extremely fingular, and altogether different from the cuftoms and ufages of any other people, 1 fhall proceed to defcribe them. In the firft place, the governor or officer who has the management of this bufinefs, with his Servants attending, orders the black drink to be brewed, which is a decoction or infufion of the leaves and tender Shoots of the Cafline ; this is done under an open fhed or pavilion, at twenty or thirty yards distance, directly oppofite the door of the council-houfe.   Next he orders bundles of dry canes to be brought in : thefe are previously Split and broken in pieces to about the length of two feet, and then placed obliquely croflways upon one another on the floor, forming a Spiral circle round about the great centre pillar, rifing to a foot  or eighteen inches in height from the ground ; and this circle fpreading as it proceeds round and round, often repeated from right to left, every revolution encreafes its diameter, and at length extends to the diftance of ten or twelve feet from the centre, more or lefs, according to the length of time the affembiy or meeting is to continue.    By the time thefe preparations are accomplifhed, it is night, and the affembiy have taken their feats in order.   The exterior extremity or outer end of the fpiral circle takes fire
G g and
and immediately rifes into a bright flame fbtrf how this is effected I did not plainly apprehend ; I faw no perfon fet fire to it; there might have been fire left on the earth, however I neither faw nor fmelt fire or fmoke until the blaze inftantly afcended upwards), which gradually and flowly creeps round the centre pillar, with the courfe of the fun, feeding on the dry canes, and affords a cheerful, gentle and fufTicient light until the circle is confnmcd, when the council breaks up. Soon after this illumination takes place, the aged chiefs and warriors are lcatcd on their cabins or fophas, on the fide of the houfe oppofite the door, in three claifcs or ranks, rifing a little, one above or behind the other; and the white people and red people of confederate towns in the like order on the left hand ; a tranfverfe range of pillars, fupporting a thin clay wall about breaft high, feparating them : the king's cabin or feat is in front; the next to the back of it the head warrior's; and the third or laft accommodates the young warriors, &c. The great war chief's feat or place is on the dime cabin with, and immediately to the left hand of the king, and next to the white people ; and to the right hand of the mico or king the moft venerable head-men and warriors are icated. The affembiy being now feated in order, and the houfe illuminated, two middle aged men, who perform the office of flaves or fervants, pro tempore, come in together at the door, each having very large conch fhells full of black drink, and advance with llow, uniform and ftcady fteps, their eyes or countenances lifted up, finging very low but fweetly ; they come within fix or eight paces of the king's and white people's cabins, when they flop together, and each veils his ihell on a tripos
or
or little table, but prefently takes it up again, and, bowing very low, advances obfequioufty, crofting or interfering each other about midway : he who refted his (hell before the white people now ftands before the king, and the other who (topped before the king ftands before the white people; when each prefents his fhell, one to the king and the other to the chief of the white people, and as foon as he raifes it to his mouth, the ftavc utters or lings two notes, each of which continues as long as he has breath ; and as long as thefe notes continue, fo long muft the perfon drink, or at lead keep the fhell to his mouth. Thefe two long notes are very folemn, and at once ftrike the imagination with a religious awe or homage to the Supreme, founding fomewhat like a-hoo—ojah and a-lu—yah. After this manner the whole aftembly are treated, as long.as the drink and light continue to hold out; and as foon as the drinking begins, tobacco and pipes are brought. The fkin of a wild cat or young tygcr fluffed with tobacco is brought, and laid at the king's feet, with the great or royal pipe beautifully adorned; the fkin is ufually of the animals of the king's family or tribe, as the wild-cat, otter, bear, rattle-fhake, &c. A fkin of tobacco is likewife brought and call at the feet of the white chief of the town, and from him it paffes from one to another to fill their pipes horn, though each perfon has befides his own peculiar fkin of tobacco. The king or chief (mokes firft in the great pipe a few whiffs, blowing it oft" ceremonioufty, firft towards the fun, or as it is generally fuppofed to the Great Spirit, for it is puffed upwards, next towards the four cardinal points, then towards the white people in the houfe ; then the great pipe is taken from the G g 2 hand
hand of the mico by a flave, and prefented to the* chief white man, and then to the great war chief, whence it circulates through the rank of head men and warriors, then returns to the king. After this each one fills his pipe from his own or his neighbour's fkin.
The great or public fquare generally hands alone, in the centre and higheft part of the town : it confifts of four-fquare or cubical buildings, or houfes of one ftory, uniform, and of the fame dimenfions, fo fituated as to form an exact tetragon, encompaffing an area of half an acre of ground, more or lefs, according to the Strength or largeneis of the town, or will of the inhabitants : there is a paffage or avenue at each corner of equal width : each building is constructed of a wooden frame fixed Strongly in the earth, the walls rilled in, and neatly plaiftered with clay mortar • clofe on three fides, that is the back and two ends, except within about two feet of the wall plate or eves, which is left open for the purpofe of a window and to admit a free paffage of the air; the front or iide next to the area is quite open like a piazza. One of thefe buildings is properly the council houfe, where the mico, chiefs, and warriors, with the citizens who have bufinefs, or choole to repair thither, affemble every day in council, to hear, decide and rectify all grievances, complaints and contentions, arif-ing betwixt the citizens- give audience to am-baffadors, and Strangers ; hear news and talks from confederate towns, allies or diftant nations ; confult about the particular affairs of the town, as erecting habitations for new citizens, or eftab-lifhing young families, concerning agriculture, &c. This building is fomewhat different from
die other three : it is clofely (hut up on three fides, that is, the back and two ends, and beiides, a partition wail longitudinally from end to end divides it into two apartments, the back part totally dark, only three fmall arched aper* tures or holes opening into it from the front apartment or piazza, and little larger than jutt to admit a man to crawl in upon his hands and knees. This fecluded place appears to me to be defigned as a Sanctuary* dedicated to religion, or rather prieft craft; for here are depofited all the facred things, as the phyfic pot, rattles, chap-lets of deer's hoofs and other apparatus of conjuration; and likewife the calumet or great pipe of peace, the imperial dandard, or eagle's tail, which is made of the feathers of the white eagle's tail 4- curioufly formed and difplayed like an open fan on a fceprre or Staff, as white and clean as poflible when difplayed for peace, but when for war, the feathers are painted or tinged with vermillion. The piazza or front of this building, is equally divided into three apartments, by two cranlverfe walls or partitions, about breaft high, each having three orders or ranges of feats or cabins Stepping one above and behind the other, which accommodate the fenate and audience, in the like order as obferved in the rotunda. The other three buildings which compofe the fquare, are alike furnilhed with three ranges of cabins or fophas, and ferve for a banqueting-houfe, to Shelter and accommodate the audience and Spec-tators at all times, particularly at fcafts or public entertainments, where all claries of citizens refort
* San&orium or facred temple ; and it is faid to be death for any perfon but the mico, war-chief a..d high pried to enter in, and none arc admitted but by pctmillion of the prieft*, who guard it day and night.
•j- Vuli ur fai i i.
G g 3 day
day and night in the fummer or moderate feafon ; the children and females however are feidom or never feen in the public fquare.
The pillars and walls of the houfes of the fquare are decorated with various paintings and Sculptures; which I fuppofe to be hieroglyphic, and as an hiftoric legendary of political and fa-cerdotal affairs : but they are extremely pictu-refque or caricature, as men in variety of attitudes, fome ludicrous enough, others having the head of fome kind of animal, as thofe of a duck, turkey, bear, fox, wolf, buck, &c. and again thofe kind of creatures are reprefented having the human head.   Thefe defigns are not ill executed ; the outlines bold, free and well proportioned. The pillars fupporting the front or piazza of the councihhoufe of the fquare, are ingeniously formed in the likenefs of vaft fpeckled fer-pents, afcending upwards; the Ottafles being of the fnake family or tribe. At this time the town was hiding, taking medicine, and I think I may Say praying, to avert a grievous calamity of ftck-nefs, which had lately afflicted them, and laid in the grave abundance of their citizens. They fail: Seven or eight days, during which time they eat or drink nothing but a meagre gruel, made of a little corn-flour and water; taking at the fame time by way of medicine or phytic, a ftrong decoction of the roots of the Iris veriicolor, which is a powerful carthartic : they hold this root in high eftimation, every town cultivates a little plantation of it, having a large artificial pond, juft without the town, planted and almoft overgrown with it, where they ufually dig clay for pottery, and mortar and platter for their build- ' ings, and I obferved where they had lately been digging up this root. jn
In the midfl of a large oblong fquare adjoining this town (which was furrounded with a low bank or terrace) is (landing a high pillar, round like a pin or needle ; it is about forty feet in height, and between two and three feet in diameter at the earth, gradually tapering upwards to a point; it is one piece of pine wood, and arifes from the centre of alow, circular, artificial hill, but it leans a little to one (ide. I inquired of the Indians and traders what it was deligned for, who anfwered they knew not : the Indians faid that their anceftors found it in the fame fituation, when they firlt arrived and poifdfcd the country, adding, that the red men or Indians, then the polfeffors, whom they vanquifhed, were as ignorant as themfelves concerning it, faying that their anceftors likewife found it (landing fo. This monument, Simple as it is, may be worthy the observations of a traveller, fince it naturally excites at lead the following queries: for what purpofe was it deligned ? its great antiquity and incorruptibility—what method or machines they employed to bring it to the fpot, and how they railed it erect ? There is no tree or fpecies of the pine, whofe wood, i. <. fo large a portion of the trunk, is fuppofed to be incorruptible, expofed in the open air to all weathers, but the long-leaved Pine (Pin. paluftris), and there is none growing within twelve or fifteen miles of this place, that tree being naturally produced only on the high, dry, barren ridges, where there is a fandy foil and graffy wet favannas. A great number of men uniting their ftrength, probably carried it to the place on handfpik.es, or fome fuch contrivance.
pn the Sabbath day before I let off from this G g 4 place,
place, I could not help obferving the iblemnity of the town, the iilence and the retiredneis of the red inhabitants; but a very few of them were to be feen, the doors of their dwellings fhut, and if a child chanced to (tray out, it was quickly drawn in doors again. I aiked the meaning of this, and was immediately anfwered, that it being the white people's beloved day or Sabbath, the Indians kept it religiously facred to the Great Spirit.
Laft night was clear and cold, wind North Weft, and this morning, January 2d, 1788, the face of the earth was perfectly white with a beautiful fparkling fro 11. Sat off for Augufta with a company of traders, four men with about thirty horfes, twenty ol which were loaded with leather and furs, each pack or load fnppofed to weigh one hundred and fifty pounds upon an average. In three days we arrived at the Apalachucla or Chata Uche river • crolfed at the point towns Chehaw and Ulfeta : thefe towns almoft join each other, yet fpeak two languages, as radically different perhaps as the Mufcogulge's and Chinefe, After leaving the river we met with nothing material, or worth particular obferva-tioti, until our arrival at Oakmulge, towards e-vening, where we encamped in expanfive ancient Indian fields, in view of the foaming flood of the river, now raging over its banks. Here were two companies of traders from Augufta, bound to the Nation, confifting of fifteen or twenty men, with feventy or eighty horfes, moft of which had their loads of merchandize : they crolfed the river this morning and loft fix horfes in the attempt; they were drowned, being entangled in the vines under Water at landing. But the river now falling again, wc were in hopes that by next morning
- the waters would be again confined within the banks. We immediately fat about rigging our portable leather boat, about eight feet long, which was of thick foal leather, folded up and carried on the top of a pack of deer-fkins. The people foon got her rigged, which was effected after the following manner. We, in the firft place, cut down a White-Oak iapling, and by notching this at each end, bent it up, which formed the keel, item and ftem poll of one piece; this was placed in the bottom of the boat, and pretty ftrong hoop-poles being fixed in the bottom acrofs the keel, turning up their ends, expanded the hull of the boat, which being fafl-ened by thongs to two other poles bent round, the outfide of the rim formed the gunwhales: thus in an hour's time our bark was rigged, to which afterwards we added two little oars or fculls. Our boat being now in readinefs, and our horfes turned out to pafture, each one retired to repofe, or to fuch exercife as moft effectually contributed to divert the mind. I was at this time rather dejected, and fought comfort in retirement, turning my courfe to the expanfive fields, fragrant groves and fublime forefts. Returned to camp by dufk, where I found my companions cheerful and thoughtlefs rather to an extreme. It was a calm ftill evening and warm; the wood-cock (fcolopax) chirruping high up in the air, gently defcends by a fpiral circular tract, and alights on the humid plain : this bird appears in Pennfylvania early in the fpring, when the Elm and Maple begin to flower; and here the fcarlet Maple, Elm and Elder began tofhow their flowers ; the yellow Jafmin was juft ready to open its fragrant golden.bloffoms, and the gay Azalea alfo preparing to expand its beauties.
The
The morning cool and pleafant : after recon-noitering the fhores of the rivers, and confulting with our brethern in diftrefs, who had not yet decamped, refolving toftayand lend their afuft-ance in palling over this rapid guiph, we were encouraged to proceed; and launching our bark into the raging flood, after many fuccefsful trips ferried over all the goods, then drove in our horfes altogether, and had the pleafure of feeing them ail fafely landed on the oppofite fhore; and laftly I embarked with three of our people, and feveral packs of leather; we then put off from Ihore, bidding adieu to our generous friends left behind, who re-echoed our ihouts upon our fafe lanidng. Weprocecdedagain, crofted the Oconne in the fame manner, and with the like fuccefs, and came to camp in the fertile fields, on the banks of that beautiful river; and proceeding thence next day, in the evening came to camp on the waters of great Ogeche. The following day, after croffing feveral of its confiderable branches, came to camp; and next day crolfed the main branch of that famous river, which being wide and very rapid proved difficult and dangerous fording; yet we croffed without any lofs, but fome of our pack-horfes were badly bruifed, being fwept off their feet and dafhed againft the rocks, my horfe too being carried away with the current, and plunging off fun ken Shelving rocks into deep holes, 1 got very wet, but I kept my feat and landed fafe : however I differed much, it being a cold freezing day.   We came to camp early, and raifing great fires with Pine knots and other wood, we dried ourfelves and kept warm during the long night, and after two days more fcaird travelling we arrived at Augufta.
Being
Being under a neceflity of making two or three days flay here, in order to refit myfelf, for by this time my flock of cloaths was entirely worn out, I took this opportunity of vifiting my friend doctor Wells at his plantations near the city. And now being again new clothed and fur-nilhed with a tolerable Indian poney, I took leave of my hoil and prepared to depart for Savanna.
Soon after I left Augufta, proceeding for Savanna, the capital, a gentleman overtook me on the road, who was a native of Ireland, and had lately arrived in this part of America with a view of fettling a plantation in Georgia, particularly for the culture of thofe very ufeful fruits and vegetables that are cultivated up the Mediterranean, and which fo largely contribute towards Supporting that lucrative branch of commerce, the Levant trade; viz. Vitis vinifera, for wine, Vitis Corinthiaca; for Currants, Vitis Allobrogica, for Raifins, Olives, Figs, Morus, for feeding Silkworms, Amygdalus communis, Piflachia, Cap-paris, Citrus aurantium, Citrus limon, Citrus verrucofa, the great fweet fcented Citron, &x. He was very ingenious, defirous of information, and as liberal and free of communicating his own acquisitions and difcoveries in ufeful fcience, and confequently a very agreeable companion. On our journey down we Stopped a while to reft and refreih ourfelves at the Great Springs, near the road, on our left hand, about midway between Augufta and Savanna.   This amazing fountain of tranfparent cool water, breaks fuddenly out of the earth, at the bafis of a moderately elevated hill or bank, forming at once a bafon near twenty yards over, afcending through a horizontal bed of foft rocks, of a heterogeneous composition,
chiefly
chiefly a teflaceous concretion of broken, entire and pulverifed fea fhells, hind, &c. constituting a coarfc kind of lime-Stone. The ebullition is copious, active and continual, over the ragged apertures in the rocks, which lie feven or eight feet below, fweiiing the furface considerably immediately above it. The waters defcend Swiftly from the fountain, forming at once a large brook, fix or eight yards over, and five or fix feet deep. There are multitudes of fifh in the fountain, of various tribes, chiefly the feveral fpecies of bream, trout, cat-fifh and garr : it was amufing to behold the fifh continually afcending and defending through the rocky apertures. Obferved that we croffed no Stream or brook of water within twelve or fifteen miles of this fountain, but had in view vaft favannas, fwamps and Cane meadows, at no great diftance from our road, on our right hand, which we may prefume were the refources or refervoirs which contributed to the fupplies of this delightful grotto. Here were growing on the afcents from the fountain, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus ■ fempervirens, Callicarpa; at a little diltance, a grove of the Canine ; and in an old field, juft by, are to be feen fome fmall Indian mounts. We travelled feveral miles over ridges of low fweiiing hills, whofe Surfaces were covered with particoloured pebbles, Streaked and clouded with red, white, brown and yellow : they were moitly broken or fhivered to pieces, I believe by the ancients in forming arrow-heads, darts, knives, &c, for I obferved frequently fome of thefe mis-ihapen implements amongft them, fome broken and others fpoiled in the making. Thefe Stones feemed to be a fpecies of jafper or agate.
On
On my way down I alfo called at Silver Bluff', and waited on the honourable G. Golphin, Efq. to acknowledge my obligations to him, and like-wife to fulfil my engagements on the part of Mr.
T----y, trader of Mucclaffe.   Mr. Golphin af-
fured me that he was in a difagrecable predicament, and that he feared the worft, but faid he would do all in his power to fave him.
After five days pleafant travelling we arrived at Savanna in good health.
Lift; of the towns and tribes in league, and which conftitute the powerful confederacy or empire of the Creeks or Mufcogulges.
Towns on the Tallapoofe or Oakfufke river, viz.
Oakfufke, upper. Oakfufke, lower. Ufale, upper. Ufale, lower. Sokafpoge. Tallafe, great, Coolome. GhuaclahatchCi OtalTe. Cluale. Fufahatche. Tuccabatche. Cunhutke. Mucclaffe. Alabama. Savannuca. Whittumke. Coofauda.
Thefe fpeak the Mufco->gulge   or  Creek tongue, called the Mother tongue.
Speak the Stincard tongue„
Speak the Uche tongue, j Speak the Stincard tongue*
Towns on the Coofau river, viz. Abacooche. Speaks a dialect of Chicafaw.
Pocontallahaffe. i g    fc  h   M -
Hiccory ground, (traders' V Ft0, s s
name). J &
Natchc. Speaks Mufcog. and Chicafaw*
Towns
Towns on the branches of the Coofau river, viz, Wiccakaw.
Fifh pond, traders name, i c    ,   . - ,
Hillaba* I Speak the Mufcogulge
K. i \ tongue,
lolege. J to
Towns on the Apalachucla or Chata Uche river, y\z* Apalachucla. Tucpaufka. Chockcclucca. Chata Uche. Checlucca-ninne. Hothletega. Coweta. UlTeta. Uche. Hoofeche. Chehaw. Fchcta. Occone. Swaglaw, great. Swaglaw, little. J
Towns on Flint river, conprchending the Siminoles or Lower Creeks.
Suola-nocha. Cufcowilla or Allachua, Talahafochte, Caloofabatche.
•-Great illand.
-Great hammock.
Speak the Mufcogulge tongue.
Speaks the Savannuca tongue. Speaks the Mufcog. tongue.
1 1
vSpeak the Stincard.
-Capon. -St. Mark's. -Forks.
Traders name-Traders name. Traders name. Traders name. Traders name.
With many others of lefs note.
The Siminoles fpeak both the Mufcogulge and Stincard tongues.
In all fifty-five towns, befides many villages not enumerated \ and reckoning two hundred inhabitants to each town on an average, which
is
is a moderate computation, would give eleven thoufand inhabitants.
It appears to me pretty clearly, from divers circumltances, that this powerful empire or confederacy of the Creeks or Mufcogulges, arofe from, and eftablifhed itfelf upon, the ruins of that of the Natches, agreeably to monfieur Du-prat.   According to the Mufcogulges account of themfelves, they arrived from the South-Welt, beyond the Miffiffipi, fome time before the Englifh fettled the colony of Carolina, and built Charleflon;  and their flory concerning their country and people, from whence they fprang, the caufe of leaving their native land, the progrefs of their migration, &c, is very fimilar to that celebrated hiflorian's account of the Natches. They might have been included as allies and confederates in that vaft and powerful empire of red men.   The Mufcogulges gradually pufhing and extending their fettlements on their North-Eaft border, until the diffolution of the Natches empire ; being then the moft numerous, warlike and powerful tribe, they began to fubjugate the various tribes or bands which formerly confli-tuted the Natches, and uniting them with themfelves, formed a new confederacy under the name of the Mufcogulges.
The Mufcogulge tongue is now the national or fovereign language; thofe of the Chicafaws, Chactaws, and even the remains of the Natches, if we are to credit the Creeks and traders, being dialects of the Mufcogulge : and probably, when the Natches were fovereigns, they called their own the national tongue, and the Creeks, Chicafaws, &c, only dialects of theirs. It is uncertain which is really the mother tongue.
As
As for thofe numerous remnant bands or tribes, included at this day within the Mufcogulge confederacy, who generally fpeak the Stincard language, (which is radically different from the Mufcogulge) they are, beyond a doubt, the fhattered remains of the various nations who inhabited the lower or maritime parts of Carolina and Florida, from Cape Fear, Weft to the Miftiflipi. The language of the Uches and Savan-nucas is a third radically different from the Mufcogulge and Stincard, and feems to be a more Northern tongue ; J fuppofe a language that prevailed amongft the numerous tribes who formerly pofiefied and inhabited the maritime parts of Maryland and Virginia. I was told by an old trader that the Savannucas and Shawanefe fpeak the fame language, or very near alike.
CHAP.
CHAP. XI.
After my return from the Creek nation, I employed myfelf during the fpring and fore part of Summer, in revifiting the feveral diflricls in Georgia and the Eafl borders of Florida, where I had noted the moft curious fubjects; collecting them together, and Hupping them off to England. In the courfe of thefe cxcurfions and researches, I had the opportunity of obferving the new flowering fhrub, refembling the Gordonia*, in perfect bloom, as well as bearing ripe fruit. It is a flowering tree, of the firft order for beauty and fragrance of bloflbms: the tree grows fifteen or twenty feet high, branching alternately; the leaves are oblong, broadeft towards their extremities, and terminate with an acute point, which is generally a little reflexed; they are lightly ferrated, attenuate downwards, and leffilc, or have very Ihort petioles; they are placed in alternate order, and towards the extremities of the twigs are crouded together, but ftand more fparfedly below ; the flowers are very large, expand themfelves perfectly, are of a fnow white colour, and ornamented with a crown or taifel .of gold coloured refulgent Staminas in their centre , the inferior petal or fegment of the corolla is hollow, formed like a cap or helmet, and entirely includes the other four, until the moment of ex-panfion; its exterior furface is covered with a Ihort iilky hair; the borders of the petals are
* On firft obf-rving the fiuctilicit;on arid habit of this tree, J was inclined to believe it a fpeciei of Gordonia; but afterwards, upon ilridcr examin-r.'ion, and comparing its flowers and fruit with thofe of the Gordonia laiian-thus, 1 prefently found ftriking chara&eriftici abundantly lutricient to fo-parate it from that genus, and to cltablifh it the head of a in-w tribe, which wc have honoured with the name of the Uluftrious Dr. Benjamin franklin. FwaMfnia Alatamaha.
H h crifped
crifped or plicated : thefe large, white flowers itand Single and feflile in the boibm oS the leaves, and being near together towards the extremities of the twigs, and ufually many expanded at the fame time, make a gay appearance : the fruit is a large, round, dry, woody apple or pericarp, opening at each end oppofitciy by five, alternate fiffures, containing ten cells, each replete with dry woody cuneiform feed. This very curious tree was firft taken notice of about ten or twelve years ago, at this place, when I attended my father (John Bartram) on a botanical excurfion ; but, it being then late in the autumn, we could form no opinion to what clafs or tribe it belonged.
We never faw it grow in any other place, nor have I ever fince feen it growing wild, in all my travels, from Pennfylvania to Point Coupe, on the banks of the Miffiffipi, which muft be allowed a very fingular and unaccountable circuni-ftancc ; at this place there are two or three acr^s of ground where it grows plentifully.
The other new, fingular and beautiful fhrub*, now here in full bloom, I never faw grow but at two other places in all my travels, and there very Sparingly, except in Eaft Florida, in the neighbourhood of the fea-coaft.
* I gave it the name of Bignonia bratleatc, extempore.
CHAP.
CHAP. X.
Having now completed my collections in Georgia, I took leave ol thefe Southern regions, proceeding on my return to Charleflon. Left Savanna in the evening, in confequence of a preffing invitation from the honourable Jonathan, Bryan, Efq., who was returning from the capital, to his villa, about eight miles up Savanna river; a very delightful fituation, where are fpacious gafd< s, iurnifhed with a Variety of fruit trees and -flowering fhrubs. Obferved in a low wet place at the corner of the garden, the Ado (Arum efculentum) ; this plant is much cultivated in the maritime part: of Georgia and Florida, for the fake of its large Turnip-like root, which when boiled or roafled, is excellent food, and rifles like the Yam ; the leaves of this magnificent plant are very large, and of a beautiful green colour, the fpatha large and circulated, the fpa-dix terminates with a very long fubulated tongue*, naked and perfectly white : perhaps this may be the Arum Colocafia. They have likewife another fpecies of the efculent Arum, called Tannier, which is a large and beautiful plant, and much cultivated and efteemed for food, particularly by the Negroes.
At night, foon after our arrival, feveral of his fervants came home with horfe loads of wild pigeons (Columba migratoria), which it feems they had collected in a fhort fpace of time at a neighbouring Bay fwamp : they take them by torch light: the birds have particular rootling places, where they affociatc in incredible multitudes at evening, on low trees and bufhes, in hommocks or higher knolls in the interior parts of vaft H h a fwamps
fwamps. Many people go out together on this kind of fport, when dark : fome take with them little fafcines of fat Pine Splinters for torches; others lacks or bags; and others furnifh themfelves with poles or (laves : thus accoutered and prepared, they approach the roofts; the hidden blaze of light confounds, blinds and affrights the birds, whereby multitudes drop off the limbs to the ground, and others are beaten off with the flaves, being by the hidden confternation, entirely helpleis, and eafily taken and put into the Sacks. It is chiefly the fweet fmall acorns of the Quercus philips, Quercus aquatica, Quercus fempervirens, Quercus flammula, and others, which induce thefe birds to migrate in the autumn to thofe Southern regions; where they fpend their days agreeably, and feaft luxuriously, during the rigour of the colds in the North, whither they return at the approach of fummer to breed.
Sat off next day, and croffed the river at Zub. ley's ferry, about fifty miles above Savanna, and in three days after arrived at Charleflon.
Obferved, by the way near Jackfonfburg, Pon-pon, After fruticofus, growing plentifully in good moid ground, ufually by the banks of canals. It is a moft charming autumnal flowering fhrub ; it will rife to the height of eight or ten feet, when Supported by neighbouring trees.
After a few days refidence in Charleflon, I fit off on my return to my native land ; crolfed Cow-pcr river, about nine miles above the city, where ■ the water was a mile wide, and the ferry-houle being on the oppofite fhore, i hoifled my travelling blanket on a pole for a fignal, which being white, the people foon came to me and carried i me
me fafe over. In three days more eafy travelling, I croffed Winyaw bay, juft below George town ; and fn two days more, got to the Weft end of Long bay, where I lodged at a large Indigo plantation. Sat off early next morning, and after crofting over the fand ridges, which afford little elfe but Quercus pumila, Myrica cerifera, Caf-fine, Sidcroxylon and Andromeda entangled with various fpecies of Smilax, got on the bay, which is a hard (and beach, expofed for the diftance of fifteen miles to the continual lafh of the Atlantic ocean. At about low water mark, are cliff's of rocks of the helmintholithus, being a very firm concrete or petrifaction, confifting of various kinds of fealhells, fine fand and pulverized fhells: there is a reef of thefe rocks, thirty or forty yards farther out than low water mark, which lift their rugged backs above water, and brave the continual ftrokes of the waves, which, however, aiiifted by the conftant friction of the fands, make continual inroads upon them, and bore them into holes and cavities, when tempeftuous feas rend them to pieces, fcattering the fragments over the fandy fhore. It is pleafant riding on this clean hard fand, paved with fhells of various colours.
Obferved a number of perfons coming up a. head, whom I foon perceived to be a party of Negroes. I had every reafon to dread the confe-quence ; for this being a defolate place, I was by this time feveral miles from any houfe or plantation, and had reafon to apprehend this to be a predatory band of Negroes; people being frequently attacked, robbed, and fometimes murdered by them at this place. I was unarmed, alone, and my horfe tired; thus fituated every way in their power, I had no alternative but to H h 3 be
t
be refigned and prepare to meet them.   As foon as I faw them distinctly a mile or two off, I immediately alighted to reft, and give breath to my horfe, intending to attempt my fafety by flight, if upon near approach they fhould betray hoitile deigns.   Thus prepared, when we drew near to each other, I mounted and rode brifkly up ; and •though armed with clubs, axes and hi t >, they opened to right and left, and let me pals peaceably.   Their chief informed me whom they belonged to, and faid they were going to man a new quarter at the Weft end of the bay; I however kept a fharp eye about me, apprehending that this might poffibly have been an advanced divifion, and their intentions were to ambufcade and furround me ; but they kept on quietly, and I was no more alarmed by them.   After noon, I croffed the fwafh at the eaft end of the bay, and in the evening got to good quarters. Next morning early I fat off again, and foon crofted Little River at the boundary; which is on the line that feparates North and South Carolina : in an old field, on the banks of this river, a little diftance from the public houfe, ftands a fingle tree of the Magnolia grandiflora, which is faid to be the molt northern fettlement of that tree. Paffed this day over expanfive favannas, charmingly decorated with late autumnal flowers, as Helianthus, Rudbeckia, Silphium, Solidago, Helenium, Ser-ratula, Cacalia, After, Lilium Martagon, Gen-tiana camilea,  Chironia,  Gentiana iaponaria, Afclepias cocci nea, Hypericum, Rhexia pul-cherrima, &c. &c.
Obferved likewife in thefe Savannas abundance of the ludicrous Dionaea mufcipnla (Diona?a, Ellis epis. ad LimrcCtirn, miraculum naturae, folia
biloba,
biloba, radicalia, ciliata, condnplicanda, fenfi-bilia, infecta incarcerantia. Syft. vegetab. p. 335).
This wonderful plant feems to be diftinguifhed in the creation, by the Author of nature, with faculties eminently fuperior to every other vegetable production*; fpecimens of it were firft communicated to the curious of the old world by John Bartram, the American botanift and traveller, who contributed as much, if not more, than any other man towapds enriching the North American botanical nomenclature, as well as its natural hiftory.
After traverfing thefe ample favannas, 1 gradtv ally afcended fand hills to open Pine forefts ; at evening got to Old town near Brunfwick, where 1 lodged. Brunfwick is a fea-porttown on the Clarendon, or Cape Fear river, about thirty miles above the capes ; it is about thirty years fince this was the feat of government, when Arthur Dobbs, Efq. was governor and commander in chief of the province of North Carolina. Continued up the Weft fide of North Weft of Cape Fear river, and relied two or three clays at the feat of F. Lucas, Efcp, a fcwmilesabove Livingfton's creek, a confiderable branch of the North Weft. This creek heads in vaft fwamps, in the vicinity of the beautiful lake Wakamaw, which is the fource of a fine river of that name, and runs a South com fe Seventy , or eighty miles, dcliveringits waters into Winyaw bay at George-town. The Wakamaw lake is twenty fix miles in circuit; the lands on its Eaftern fhores are fertile, and the fituation delightful, gradually afcending from pleafing eminences ; bounded on the North-Welt coaft by vaft rich fwamps, fit for the production, of Rice : the lake
* Sec fopic sec aint of it in the introduction. 11 h 4
is twelve miles Weft from--Moore's, Efq.,
whofe villa is on the banks of the North Weft.
Proceeding again up the North Weft, crolfed Carver's creek, and flopped at Alhwood, the ancient feat of Colonel W illiam Bartram. The houfe ftands on the high banks of the river, near feventy feet in height above the furface of the water; this high bluff continues two or three miles on the river, and commands a magnificent profpect of the low lands oppofite, when in their native flatc, prefenting to the view grand forefts and expanfive Cane meadows : the trees which compote thefe forefts are generally of the following tribes, Quercus tinctoria, Querc. alba, Qucrc. phillos, Querc. aquatica, Qucrc. hemifphenca, Fraxinus excelfior, Platanus occidentals, Liriodendron tulipifera, Liquidambar ftyraciflua, Ulmus, Ti-lia, Juglans hiccory, Juglans cinerea, Juglans nigra, Morus rubra, Gleditfia triacanthus, Ho-pea tinctoria, Nyffa aquatica, Nyffa fylvatica, Carpinus and many more; theCuprcffus diflicha as ftately and beautiful as I have feen any where. When thefe lands are cleared of their timber and cultivated, they produce abundantly, particularly, Wheat, Zea, Cotton, Hemp, Flax, with variety of excellent vegetables, This perpendicular bank of the river, by which the waters fwiftly glide along, difcoven at once the various ftrata of the earth of this low maritime country. For the moft part, the upper ftratum confifts of a light, fandy, pale, yellowifh mould or loam, for ten or twelve feet in depth (except the flat level laud back from the rivers, where the clays or marie approach very near the furface, and the ridges of fand hills, where the clays lie much deeper) : this fandy mould or loam lies upon a
deep bed of black or dark Hate coloured faline and fulphureous earth, which is compofed of horizontal rhin flakes or lamina?, leparated by-means of very thin, almoit imperceptible veins or ftrata of fine micaceous particles, which drain or percolate a clear water, continually exuding, or trickling down, and forming little rills and diminutive cataracts, being conducted by perpendicular chinks orfiffures : in fome places, a portion of this clear water or tranfparent vapour, feems to coagulate on the edges of the veins and fiftures, leaving a reddifh curd or jelly-like "fubflance flicking to them, which I (hould fuppofe indicates it to fpring from a ferruginous fource, efpecially fince it difcovers a chalybeate fcent and tafte : in other places, thefe fiffures ihow evidently a crystallization of exceeding fine white (alts, which have an aluminous or vitriolic fcent: they are pyrites, marcafites, or fulphureous nodules, fhining like brafs, of various fizes and forms, fome (ingle and others conglomerated : other places prefent to view, ftrata of heterogeneous matter, lying between the upper loamy ftratum and the bed of black faline earth, confiding of various kinds of fea fhells, fome whole, others broken to pieces, and even pulverized, which fill up the cavities of the entire fhells, and the interfaces betwixt them: at other places wc obferve, two or three feet below the furface or virgin mould, a ftratum of four, five, or fix feet in depth, of brownifhmarie, on a bed of teflaceous rocks; a petrifaction compofed apparently of various kinds of fea fhells, belcm-nitcs, fand, &c, combined or united with a calcareous cement : thefe maifes of rocks are in fome places detached by veins and ftrata of a heterogeneous earth, confifting of fea fhells and other marine productions, as well as terrcftrial, which
feem
feem to be fouile, or in fome degree of petrifaction, or other wife tranfmuted, particularly thole curious productions called birds bills, or (harks teeth (dentes care ha rise), belcmnites, &e>,loofely mixed with a dellccated earth compofed of fand, clay,particlesofmarle,vegetablerubbilh,&c. And again we obferve lbells, marcafites, belemnites, dentes carcharias, with pieces of wood tranfmuted, black and hard as fea coal, fmgly interfperfed in the black vitriolic ftrata of earth : when this black earth is expofed to the fun and dry air, the little thin lamina? feparate, and foon difcover a fine, white cryltallization,, or aluminous powder ; but this very foon difappears, being again incorporated with the general mafs, which gradually dif-folves or falls like quick-lime, and appears then a grayifh, extremely fine, dry micaceous powder, which fmells like gun-powder.
The North Weft of Cape Fear, here at Afh-wood, is near three hundred yards over (when the ftream is low and within its banks), and is eighty or ninety miles above thecapes. Obferved growing hereabouts a great variety of very curious and beautiful flowering and fweet fcented fhrubs, particularly Callicarpa, ^Efcuhis pavia, ftoribus coc-cineis, caule funruticofo, iEfculus fylvatica, flo-ribus ex albo et carneo elegantcr variegatis,.caule arborco, Ptelea trifoliata, Styrax, Stcwartia, Fo-thergilla, Amorpha, Myrica, Stillingia fruiicofa, foliis lanceolatis, utrinque glabris, fructu tricoc-co, Olea Americana, foliis lanceolato-ellipticis, haccisatro-purpureis (Purple berried bay J, Catefby. llexdahoon, CafTine Yapon, Azalea, varieties, Kalmea, Cyrilla, Liquidambar peregrinurhj Sideroxylon, Andromeda lucida, &c.
Reaving Afhwood, and continuing up the Weft
fide of the river, about forty miles, in the banks of a cfc k, five or fix feet below the fandy furface, are to be feen projecting out many leer in length, trunks o. "ecs petrified to very hard ftone ; they lie between , ipper fandy ftratum and the common bed of blac lolic earth; and thefe ftone trees are to the lame fituation, flicking out of the p pendicuiar banks or Bluffs of the river in thi s region : there are feveral trunks of large trees with their bark, (lumps of their limbs and roots, lying petrified on the land hills and Pine fereio, near the road about this creek, not far from the law-mills.
* Cr (fed Rock-ffth, a large branch of the North Weft, near its mouth or confluence, and ar evening arrived at Crofs-Cre^ks, another very confiderable branch of the river, flowing in through its Weft banks. This creek gave name to a fine inland trading town, on fome heights or fwellmg hills, from whence the creek dele .aids precipitately, then gently meanders near a mile, through lower level lands, to its confluence with the river, affording moft convenient mill-feats: thefe pro-fpefts induced active, enterprifing men to avail themfelves of fuch advantages pointed out to them by nature; they built mills, which drew people to the place, and thefe obferving eligible lituitions for other profitable improvements, bought lo,ts and erected tenements, where they exerciied mechanic arts, as fmiths, wheelwrights, carpenters, coopers, tanners, &c. And at length merchants were encouraged to adventure and fettle: in fhort, within eight or ten years, from a grilt-mill, favy-mill, fmith-lhop and a tavern, arofe a ilouriihing commercial town, the feat of government of the county of Cumberland. The leading
men
men of the county, feeing plainly the fuperior advantages of this fituation, on the hanks of a famous navigable river, petitioned the Affembiy for a charter to empower them to purchafe a diftrict, fufficient for founding a large town ; which being granted, they immediately proceeded to mark out its precincts, and named the new city
Cambelton,a compliment to-Cambel, Efq.,
a gentleman of merit, and a citizen of the county. When 1 was here about twenty years ago, this town was marking out its bounds, and there were then about twenty habitations; and now there are above a thoufand houfes, many wealthy merchants, ar.d refpectable public buildings, a vaft rcfort of inhabitants and travellers, and continual briflt commerce by waggons, from the back fettlements, with large trading boats, to and from Wilmington, the feaport and flourifhing trading town on the Clarendon, about forty miles above the capes, which is about one hundred miles below this town. The Clarendon or Cape Fear river has its fource in the Cherokee mountains, where its numerous confederate ftreams unite; after leaving the firft ridges of the mountains, it aftumes ihc name of Haw river, and courling the hilly fertile country, above one hundred and fifty miles, receives through its Weft banks the Weft branch, called Deep River, and after this union, takes the name of the N'orth-Wefl of Cape Fear, from whence down to Cambelton, about eighty miles, it is navigable for perriauguas of confiderable burthen.
Obferved near Cambelton a very curious fcan-dent Fern (Pteris fcandens) rambling over low bullies, in humid lituations ; the lower larger fronds were digitated, or rather radiated, but
towards
towards the tops or extremities of the branches they became trifid, haftated, and laftly lanceolate : it is a delicate plant, of a yellowifh lively green, and would be an ornament in a garden.
Sat off again to Cambelton, continuing yet up the North Weft about fixty miles ; crofted over this branch, and foon after crofted the Roanoke, and then refted a few days at Mr. Lucas's a worthy old gentleman, a planter on Meherren river. Obferved (trolling over his fences and flables, a very fingular and ufeful fpecies of the Gourd (Cucurbita lagenaria) ; its neck or handle is above two feet in length, and not above an inch in diameter;  its  belly round, which would contain about a pint;  it makes excellent ladles, funnels., &c.    At a little diftance from Mr. Lucas's, at the head of a fwamp near the high road, I obferved a very curious fpecics of Prinos, which grows feven or eight feet high, the leaves broad, lanceolate, fharply ferratcd, nervous, and of a deep green colour; but its ftriking beauty con-fifts in profufe clufters of fruit, collected about the cafes or origin of the laft fpring's ihoots; thefe berries are nearly round, about the fize of middling grapes, of a fine clear fcarlet colour, covered or inverted with an incarnate mift or nebula?.
Being now arrived on the South border of Virginia, and the hoary frigid feafon far advanced, 1 ihall pafs as fpeedily as poftible from hence to Pennfylvania, my native country; fince thofe cultivated regions of Virginia and Maryland, through wich I defign to travel, have been over and over explored, and defcribed by very able men in every branch of natural hiitory.
After leaving Meherren., I foon arrived at
Alexandria
Alexandria in Virginia, a fine city on the Weft banks of the Patowmac, about the 26th of December, having had excellent roads, and pleafant, moderate weather, neither fnow nor ice to be feen, except a flight fall of fnow from a flying cloud, the day before I reached this place; but this evening it clouded up from the Weft, the wind North-eaft and cold* Next morning the fnow was eight or ten inches deep on the ground, and the wind fhifting to North-weft, cleared up intenfely cold : I however fat off and crofted the river juft below the falls, and landed at Georgetown in Maryland. The fnow was now deep every where around, the air cold to an extreme, and the roads deep under fnow or ftippery with ice, rendered the travelling uncomfortable.
Being now arrived at Wright's ferry, on the Sufquehanna, 1 began anxiouuy to look towards home, but here 1 found almoft infupcrable em-bar raffments : the river being but half frozen over, there was no poffibility of crofting here; but hearing that people crofted at Andcrfon's, about five miles above, early next morning I fat off again up the river, in company with feveral travellers, fome for Philadelphia : arriving at the ferry, wc were joined by a number of traders, with their pack-horfes loaded with leather and furs, where we all agreed to venture over together; and keeping at a moderate diftance from each other, examining well our icy bridge, and being careful of our fteps, we landed fafe on the oppofite fhore, got to Laneafter in the evening, and next morning flit forward again towards Philadelphia, and in two days more arrived at nry father's houfe on the banks of the river Schuylkill within four miles of the city, January 1 77
AN
ACCOUNT
OF THE1
PERSONS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS AND GOVERNMENT, OF THE
MUSCOGULGES, or CREEKS, CHEROKEES, CHACTAWS, &c.
ABORIGINES OF THE CONTINENT OF
NORTH AMERICA,
by
WILLIAM BARTRAM.
PART
IV.
CHAP.
I.
description of the character, customs AND persons of the american aborigines, from my own observations, as well as from the general and impartial report of ancient, respectable men, either of their own people, or white traders, who have spent many days of their lives amongst them.
1 HE males of the Cherokees, Mufcogulges, Siminoles, Chicafaws, Chactaws, and confederate tribes of the Creeks, are tall, erect, and moderately robuft; their limbs well fhaped, fo as generally to form a perfect human figure; their features regular, and countenance open, dignified and placid ; yet the forehead and brow fo formed, as to ftrike you inftantly with heroifm and bravery ; the eye though rather fmall, yet active and full of fire; the iris always black, and the nofe commonly inclining to the aquiline.
Their countenance and actions exhibit an air of magnanimity, fuperiority and independence.
Their complexion, of a reddiih brown or copper colour; their hair long, lank, coarfe, and black as a raven, and reflecting the like lultre at different expofures to the light.
The women of the Cherokees, are tall, flender, erect and of a delicate frame ; their features formed with perfect fymmetry, their countenance
PERSONS and QUALIFICATIONS.
1 l
cheerful
cheerful and friendly, and they move with a becoming grace and dignity.
The Mufcogulge women, though remarkably fhort of ftature, are well formed ; their vifage round, features regular and beautiful; the brow high and arched ; the eye large, black and languishing, expreflive of modefhy, diffidence, and bafhfulnefs; thefe charms are their defenfive and offenfive weapons, and they know very well how to play them off, and under cover of thefe alluring graces, arc concealed the moft fubtile artifice; they are however loving and affccliionate : they are, I believe, the fmallcft race of women yet known, Seldom above five feet high, and 1 believe the greater number never arrive to that ftature ; their hands and feet not larger than thofe of Europeans of nine or ten years of age : yet the men are of gigantic ftature, a full fize larger than Europeans ; many of them above fix feet, and few under that, or rive feet eight or ten inches. Their complexion much darker than any of the tribes to the North of them that I have feen. This description will I believe comprehend the Mufco-gulges, their conSederates, the Chactaws, and I believe the Chicafaws (though I have never Seen their women), excepting however fome bands of the Siminoles, Uches ahd Savannucas, who are rather taller and ilenderer, and their complexion brighter.
The Cherokees are yet taller and more robuft han the Mufcogulges, and by far ihe largeft race of men 1 have feen* ; their complexions brighter
* There are, however, fome exceptions to this general obfervation, as I have myfelf witnciicd. Their prefent grand chief or emperor (the Little Carpenter, Atta-kul-kulla) is a man of remarkably fmall llature, flender, and of a delicate frame, the only inllancc 1 fvH in the nation : but he is a man of fuperior abilities.
and
and fomewhat of the olive eaft, efpecially the a-dults ; and fome of their young women are nearly as fair and blooming as European women.
The Cherokees in their difpofitions and manners are grave and fteady; dignified and circum-fpect in their deportment; rather flow and re-ferved in converfation; yet frank, cheerful, and humane; tenacious of the liberties and natural rights of man ; fecret, deliberate and determined, in their councils; honeft, juft and liberal, and ready always to facrifice every pleafure and gratification, even their blood, and life itfelf, to defend their territory and maintain their rights. They do homage to the Mufcogulges with reluctance, and are impatient under that galling yoke. I was witnefs to a moft humiliating lafh, which they paflively received from their red maf-ters, at the great congrefs and treaty of Augufta, when thefe people acceded with the Creeks, to the ceflion of the New Purchafe; where were about three hundred of the Creeks, a great part of whom were warriors, and about one hundred Cherokees.
The firft day of convention opened with fettling the preliminaries, one article of which was a demand on the part of the Georgians, to a territory lying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them both, which it feems the Cherokees had, previous to the opening of congrefs, privately conveyed to the Georgians, unknown to the Creeks. The Georgians mentioning this as a matter fettled, the Creeks demanded in council, on what foundation they built that claim, faying they had never ceded thefe lands. The Georgians anfwered, that they bought them of their friends and brothers the Cherokees.   The Creeks nettled and incenfed at
1 i 2 this,
this, a chief and warrior flarted up, and with an agitated and terrific countenance, frowing menaces and difdain, fixed his eyes on the Cherokee chiefs, and aiked them what right they had to give away their lands, calling them old women, and faying they had long ago obliged them to wear the petticoat; a moft humiliating and degrading ftroke, in the prefence of the chiefs of the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, of the Chicafaws, principal men and citizens of Georgia, Carolina, Virginia, Maryland and Pennfylvania, in the face of their own chiefs and citizens, and amidft the laugh and jeers of the aftembly, efpecially the young men of Virginia, their old enemies and dreaded neighbours : but humiliating as it really was, they were obliged to bear the ftig-ma paflively, and even without a reply.
And moreover, thefe arrogant bravos and ufurpers carried their pride and importance to fuch lengths, as even to threaten to diffolve the congrefs and return home, unlefs the Georgians confented to annul the fecret treaty with the Cherokees, and receive that territory immediately from them, as acknowledging their exclulivc right of alienation ; which was complied with, though violently extorted from the Cherokees, contrary to right and fanction of treaties; fince the Savanna river and its waters were acknowledged to be the natural and juft bounds of territory betwixt the Cherokees and Mufcogulges.
The national character of the Mufcogulges, when confidered in a political view, exhibits a portraiture of a great or ilhlftrious heroe. A proud, haughty and arrogant race of men ; they are brave and valiant in war, ambitious of con-qiieft, reftlefs and perpetually exercifing their
arms,
(
arms, yet magnanimous and merciful to a van-quifhed enemy, when lie Submits and feeks their friendihip and protection : always uniting the vanquished tribes in confederacy with them; when they immediately enjoy, unexceptionably, every right of free citizens, and are from that moment united in one common band of brotherhood. They were never known to exterminate a tribe, except the Yamafees, who would never Submit on any terms, but fought it out to the laft, only about forty or fifty of them efcaping at the laft decifive battle, who threw themfelves under the protection of the Spaniards at St. Auguftine.
According to their own account, which I believe to be true, after their arrival in this country, they joined in alliance and perpetual amity with the Britilh colonifts of South Carolina and Georgia, which they never openly violated ; but on the contrary, purfued every ftep to ftrengthen the alliance; and their aged chiefs to this day, fpeak of it with tears of joy, and exult in that memorable tranfaclion, as one of the moft glorious events in the annals of their nation.
As an inftance of their ideas of political impartial juftice, and homage to the Supreme Being, as the high arbiter of human tranfactions, who alone claims the right of taking away the life of man, I beg leave to offer to the reader's confideration, the following event, as I had it from the mouth of a Spaniard, a refpectable inhabitant of Eaft: Florida.
The fon of the Spaniih governor of St. Auguftine, together with two young gentlemen, his friends and  aftbeiates, conceived a deflgn of amufing themfelves in a party of Sport, at hunt* I i 3 i"g
ing and fifhing. Having provided themfelves with a convenient bark, ammunition, fifh ing tackle, &c, they fet fail, directing their courfe South, along the coaft, towards the point of Florida, putting into bays and rivers, as conveniency and the profpect of game 'invited them. The pleafing rural and diverfified fcenes of the Florida coaft, imperceptibly allured them far to the fouth, beyond the Spaniih fortified pott. Unfortunate youths ! regardlefs of the advice and injunctions of their parents and friends, ftill purfuing the de-lufive objects, they entered a harbour at evening, with a view of chafing the roe-buck, and bunting up the Sturdy bear, folacing themfelves with delicious fruits, and repofing under aromatic fhades ; when, alas! cruel unexpected event! in the beatific moments of their ft umbers, they were furrounded, arretted and carried off by a predatory band of Creek Indians, proud of the capture, fo rich a prize ; they hurry away into cruel bondage the haplefs youths, conducting them by devious paths through dreary fwamps and boundlefs favannas, to the Nation.
At that time the Indians were at furious war with the Spaniards, fcarcely any bounds fet to their cruelties on either fide : in fhort, the miserable youths were condemned to be burnt.
But there were Englifh traders in thefe towns, who learning the character of the captives, and expecting great rewards from the Spaniih governor, if they could deliver them, petitioned the Indians on their behalf, expreffing their wifhes to obtain their refcue, offering a great ranfom ; acquainting them at the fame time, that they were young men of high rank, and one of them the governor's ion.
- 2 Upon
Upon this, the head men, or chiefs of the whole nation, were convened, and after folemn and mature deliberation, they returned the traders their final anfwer and determination, which was as follows:
c* Brothers and friends. We have been con-fidering upon this bufinefs concerning the captives—and that, under the eye and fear of the Great Spirit. You know that thefe people are our cruel enemies; they fave no lives of us red men, who fail in their power. You fay that the youth is the fon of the Spaniih governor ; we believe it; we are forry he has fallen into our hands, but he is our enemy : the two young men (his friends) are equally our enemies; we are forry to fee them here; but we know no difference in their fiefti and blood ; they are equally our enemies ; if we fave one we muft fave all three : but we cannot do it; the red men require their blood to appeafe the fpirits of their flain relatives ; they have entrufted us with the guardianlhip of our laws and rights, we cannot betray them.
" However we have a faered prescription relative to this affair, which allows us to extend mercy to a certain degree : a third is faved by lot; the Great Spirit allows us to put it to that decilion; he is no refpecfer of perfons." The lots were eaft. The governor's fon was taken and burnt.
If we confider them with refpect to their private character or in a moral view, they muft, I think, claim our approbation, if we diveit ourfelves of prejudice and think freely. As moral men they certainly ftand in no need of European civilization.
They
They are juft, honeft, liberal and hofpitable to ftrangers; confiderate, loving and affectionate to their wives and relations ; fond of their children ; induftrious, frugal, temperate and perfevering ; charitable and forbearing. I have been weeks and months amongft them and in their towns, and never obferved the leaft ngn of contention or wrangling : never faw an inltance of an Indian beating his wife, or even reproving her in anger. In this cafe they ftand as examples of reproof to the mod civilized nations, as not being defective in juttice, gratitude and a good understanding; for indeed their wives merit their ettecm and the moft gentle treatment, they being induftrious, frugal, careful, loving and affectionate.
The Mufcogulges are more volatile, fprightly and talkative than their Northern neighbours, the Cherokees; and, though far more diftant from the white fettlements than any nation Eaft of the Miffiffipi or Ohio, appear evidently to have made greater advances towards the refinements of true civilization, which cannot, in the leaft degree, be attributed to the good examples of the white people.
Their internal police and family economy at once engage the notice of European travellers, and incontrovertible place thefe people in an illultrious point of view : their liberality, intimacy and friendly intercourfe one with another, without any reltraint of ceremonious formality, as if they were even infenfible of the ufe or ncceftity of affociating the paffions or affections of avarice, ambition or covctoufnefs.
A man goes forth on his bufinefs or avocations ; he calls in at another town ; if he wants
victuals
victuals, reft or focial converfation, he confidently approaches the door of the firft houfe he choofes, laying " i am come;" the good man or woman replies, " You are ; it's well." Immediately victuals and think are read)-; he eats and drinks a little, then fmokes tobacco, and converfes either of private matters, public talks, or the news of the town. He rifes and fays, " 1 go !'' the other a-nfwersj i( You do !" He then proceeds again, ind -eps in at the next habitation he likes, or repairs to the public fquare, where are people s conversing by day, or dancing all night, fome more private aifembly, as he likes; he needs no one to introduce him, any more than the - bird or thruih, when he repairs to the fruitful groves, to regale on their luxuries, and. ente tain the fond female with evening Songs.
It is aftonifhing, though a fad:, as well as a fharp reproof to the white people, if they will allow themfelves liberty to reflect and form a juft eftimate, and I muft own elevates thefe people to the firft rank amongft mankind, that they have been able to refill the continual efforts of the complicated hod of vices, that have for ages over-run the nations of the old world, and fo contaminated their morals; yet more fo, fince fuch vail armies of thefe evil fpirits have invaded this continent, and clofely in veiled them on all fides. Affonifhing indeed ! when we behold the ill, immoral conduct of too many white people, who refide amongft them : notwithstanding which, it feems natural, eligible, and even eafy, for thefe fimple, illiterate people, to put in practice thofe beautiful lectures delivered to us by the ancient Sages and philofophers, and recorded for our inftruction.
I fasv
I faw a young Indian in the Nation, who when prefent, and beholding the fcenes of mad intemperance and folly acled by the white men in the town, clapped his hand to his breaft, and with a (mile, looked aloft as if ftruck with aftoniihment, and wrapt in love and adoration to the Deity ; as who Should fay, " O thou Great and Good Spirit ! we are indeed fenhble of thy benignity and favour to us red men, in denying us the understanding of white men. We did not know before they came amongft us that mankind could become fo bafe, and fall fo below the dignity of their nature. Defend us from their manners, laws and power."
The Mufcogulges, with their confederates, the Chactaws, Chicafaws, and perhaps the Cherokees, eminently deferve the encomium of all nations, for their wifdom and virtue in refitting and even repelling the greatest, and even the common enemy of mankind, at leaft of moft of the European nations, I mean fpirituous liquors.
The firft and moft cogent article in all their treaties with the white people, is, that there fhall not be any kind of fpirituous liquors fold or brought into their towns; and the traders are allowed but two kegs (five gallons each) which is fuppofed to be fufficient for a company, to ferve them on the road ; and if any of this remains on their approaching the towns, they muft fpill it on the ground or fecrete it on the road, for it muft not come into.the town,
On my journey from Mobile to the Nation, juft after we had palled the junction of the Penfacola road with our path, two young traders overtook ps on their way to the Nation.    We inquired
what
what news ? They informed us that they were running about forty kegs of Jamaica fpirits (which by daihing would have made at lead eighty kegs) to the Nation ; and after having left the town three or four days, they were furprifed on the road in the evening, juft after they had come to camp, by a party of Creeks, who difcovering their fpecies of merchandize, they forthwith ftruck their tomahawks into every keg, giving the liquor to the thirfty fand, not tailing a drop of it themfelves ; and they had enough to do to keep the tomahawks from their own fkulls.
How are we to account for their excellent policy in civil government; it cannot derive its influence from coercive laws, for they have no inch artificial fyftem. Divine wifdom dictates and they obey.
We fee and know full well the direful effect* of thjs torrent of evil, which has its fource in hell; and we know furely, as well as thefe lavages, how to divert its courfe and fupprefs its inundations. Do we want wifdom and virtue? let our youth then repair to the venerable councils of the Mufcogulges.
CHAP.
CHAP. II.
Ov THEIR GOVERNMENT ksq crvir, BOCIETY.
The conftittition or. fyftem of their police is Simply natural, and as little complicated as that which is fuppofed to dired or rule the approved economy or the ant and the bee ; and feems to be nothing more than the fimple dictates of natural •reafon, plain to every one, yet recommended to them by their wife and virtuous ciders as divine, becaufe necelfary for fecuring mutual happinefs ' equally binding and effeclual, as being propofed and aifented to in the general combination : every one's conference being a fufficient conviction (the golden rule, do as you would be done by) inftantly prefents to view, and produces a fociety of peace and love, which in effect; better maintains human happinefs, than the moft complicated fyftem of modern politics, or fumptuary laws, enforced by coercive means: for here the people are all on an equality, as to the pofteflion and enjoyments of the common neceffaries and conveniences of life, for luxuries and fuperfluities they have none.
This natural conftittition is limply Subordinate; and the Supreme, Sovereign or executive power refides in a council of elderly chiefs, warriors and others, rcfpectable for wifdom, valour and virtue.
At the head of this venerable fenate, prefides their mico or king, which fignifies a magistrate or chief ruler : the governors of Carolina, Georgia, &c, are called micos; and the king of England is called Ant-apala-mico-clucco% that is the great king, over or beyond the great water.
* Cjjtco fignifies great or excellent.
The
The king, although he is acknowledged to be the firft and greateft man in the town or tribe, and honoured with every due and rational mark of love and efteem, and when presiding in council, with a humility and homage as reverent as that paid to the moft defpotic monarch in Europe or the Eaft, and when abfent, his feat is not rilled by any other perfon, yet he is not dreaded; and when out of the council, he aflbciates with the people as a common man, converies with them, and they with him, in perfect eafe and familiarity.
The mico or king, though elective, yet his advancement to that fupreme dignity muft be understood in a very different light from the elective monarch* of the old worlu, where the progrefs to magistracy is generally effected by fchifin and the influence of n lends gained by craft, bribery, and often by more violent efforts; and after the throne is obtained, by meafnrcs little better than uftirpation, he muft be protected and fupported there, by the fame bafe means that carried him thither.
But here behold the majefty of the Mufcogulge mico! he does not either publicly or privately beg of the people to place him in a fituation to command and rule them : no, his appearance is altogether myfterious; as a beneficent deity he rifes king over them, as the fun rifes to blefs the earth !
No one will tell you how or when he became their king ; but he is univerfally acknowledged to be the greateft perfon among them, and he is loved, efteemed and reverenced, although heal-fociates, eats, drinks and dances with them in common as another man ; his drefs is the fame,
and
and a Stranger could not diftinguifh the king's habitation, from that of any other citizen, by any fort of fplendour or magnificence; yet he perceives they ad as though their mico beheld them, himfelf invifible. In a word, their mico feems to them the reprcfentative of Providence or the Great Spirit, whom they acknowledge to prefide over and influence their councils and public proceedings. He pcrfonally presides daily in their councils, cither at the rotunda or public fquare : and even here his voice, in regard to bufinefs in hand, is regarded no more, than any other chief's or fenator's, no farther than his advice, as being the beft and wifeft man of the tribe, and not by virtue of regal prerogative. But whether their ultimate decisions require unanimity, or only a majority of voices, I am uncertain ; but probably where there is a majority, the minority voluntarily accede.
The moft active part the mico takes is in the civil government of the town or tribe : here he has the power and prerogative of calling a council, to deliberate on peace and war, or all public concerns, as inquiring into, and deciding upon complaints and differences; but he has not the It aft ihadow of cxclufive executive power. He is complimented with the firft vifits of ftrangers, giving audience to ambafladors, with prefents, and he has alfo the difpofal of the public granary.
The next man in order of dignity and power, is the great war chief: he reprefents and exer-cifes the dignity of the mico, in his abfence, in council; his voice is of the greateft weight, in military affairs; his power and authority are entirely independent of the mico, though when a
mico
mico goes on an expedition, he heads the army, and is there the war chief. There are many of thefe war chiefs in a town or tribe, who are captains or leaders of military parties; they are elderly men, who in their youthful days have di-ftinguiuicd themfelves in war by valour, fubtility and intrepidity ; and thefe veteran chiefs, in a great degree, constitute their truly dignified and venerable fenates.
There is in every town or tribe a high prieft, ufually called by the white people jugglers, or conjurers, befides feveral juniors or graduates. But the ancient high prieft or feer, prcfides in Spiritual affairs, and is a perfon of confequence; he maintains and exercifes great influence in the ftate, particularly in military affairs; the fenate never determine on an expedition againft their enemy without his counfel and afliftance. Thefe people generally believe that their feer has communion with powerful invifible fpirits, who they fuppofe have a lhare in the rule and government of human affairs, as well as the elements; that he can predict: the refult of an expedition; and his influence is fo great, that they have been known frequently to flop, and turn back an army, when within a days journey of their enemy, after a march of feveral hundred miles; and indeed their predictions have furprized many people. They fore-tel rain or drought, and pretend to bring rain at pleafure, cure difeafes, and exercife witchcraft, invoke or expel evil fpirits, and even affume the
power of directing thunder and lightning.
i
Thefe Indians are by no means idolaters, unlets their puffing the tobacco fmoke towards the fun, and rejoicing at the appearance of the new
moon,
moon*, may be termed fo. So far from idolatry are they, that they have no images amongft them* nor any religious rite or ceremony that I could perceive ; but adore the Great Spirit, the giver and taker away of the breath of life, with the moft profound and refpectful homage. They believe in a future ftate, where the fpirit exifts, which they call the world of fpirits, where they enjoy different degrees of tranquillity or comfort, agreeably to their life fpent here : a perfon who in his life has been an induftrious hunter, provided well for his family, an intrepid and active warrior, juft, upright, and done all the good he could, will, they fay, in the world of fpirits, live in a warm, pleafant country, where are expanfive, green, flowery favannas and high forefts, watered with rivers of pure waters, replenifhed with deer, and every fpecics of game; a fercne, unclouded and peaceful Iky; in Ihort, where there is fulnefs of pleafure, uninterrupted.
They have many accounts of trances and virions of their people, who have been fuppofed to be dead, but afterwards reviving, have related their vifions, which tend to enforce the practice of virtue and the moral duties.
Before I went amongft the Indians, I had often heard it reported, ihat thefe people, when their parents, through extreme old age, become dc-crepid and helplcfs, in compaftion for their mi-feries, fend them to the other world, by a ftrokc of the tomahawk or bullet. Such a degree of depravity and fpecics of impiety always appeared
* I have obferved the young fellows very m*rry and jocofc, at the appearance of the new moon, faying, ROW ailumed flic looks undcrthe veil, fince lieepir.g with the fun dele tv/a or three nig tat, ihc is afliamcd tjfli'.wher
i to
to me fo incredibly inhuman and horrid, that it was with the utmoft difficulty I afllimed refohi-tion fufficient to inquire into it.
The traders allured me that they knew no in-* fiance of fuch barbarifm; but that there had been inftances of the communities performing fuch a deed at the earned requeft of the victim.
When I was at Mucclaffe town, early one morning, at the invitation of the chief trader, we repaired to the public fquare, taking with us fome prefents for the Indian chiefs. On our arrival we took our feats in a circle of venerable men, round a fire in the centre of the area: other citizens were continually coming in, and amongft them I was ftruck with awe and veneration at the appearance of a very aged man ; his hair, what little he had, was as white as fnow; he was conducted by three young men, one having hold of each arm, and the third behind to fteady him. On his approach the whole circle fainted him, fC welcome," and made way for him : he looked as fmiling and cheerful as youth, yet Hone-blind by extreme old age: he was the moft ancient chief of the town, and they all feemed to reverence him. Soon after the old man had feated himfelf, I diftributed my prefents, giving him a very fine handkerchief and a twirl of choice tobacco, which palled through the hands of an elderly chief who fat next him, telling him it was a prefent from one of their white brothers, lately arrived in the nation from Charleflon: he received the prefent with a fmile, and thanked me, returning the favour immediately with his own ftone pipe and cat fkin of tobacco : and then complimented me with a long oration, the purport of which was the value he fet on the friendihip of
K k the
the Carolinians. He faid, that when he was a young man they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, knives, razors nor guns, that they then made ufe of their own ftone axes, clay pots, flint knives, bows and arrows; and that he was the firft man who brought the white people's goods into his town, which he did on his back from Charleflon, five hundred miles on foot, for they had no horfes then amongft them.
The trader then related to me an anecdote concerning this ancient patriarch, which occurred not long before.
One morning after his attendants had led him to the council fire, before feating himfelf, he ad-drefled himfelf to the people after this manner—
(i You yet love me; what can I do now to merit your regard ? nothing; 1 am good for nothing-I cannot fee to fhoot the buck or hunt up the fturdy bear; I know I am but a burthen to you; I have lived long enough ; now let my fpirit go; I want to fee the warriors of my youth in the country of fpirits : (bareing his breaft) here is the hatchet, take it and ftrike." They anfwered with one united voice, <{ We will not; we cannot ; we want you here,"
CHAF.
CHAP, III.
Of THEIR DRESS, FEASTS and DIVERTISEMENTS.
THE youth of both fexes are fond of decorating themfelves with external ornaments. The men (have their head, leaving only a narrow ere ft or comb, beginning at the crown of the head, where it is about two inches broad and about the fame height, and (lands frized upright; but this crcll tending backwards, gradually widens, covering the hinder part of the head and back of the neck : the lank hair behind is ornamented with pendant filver quills, and then jointed of articulated filver plates; and ufually the middle fafcicleof hair, being by far the longed, is wrapped in a large quill of lilver, or the joint of a fmall reed, curioufly fculptured and painted, the hair continuing through it terminates in a tail or taffel.
Their ears are lacerated, feparating the border or cartilaginous limb, which at firft is bound round very clofe and tight with leather firings or thongs, and anointed with frcih bear's oil, until healed : a piece of lead being faflened to it, by its weight extends this cartilage an incredible length, which afterwards being craped, or bound round in brafs or lilver wire, extends femicircul-arly like a bow or crefcent; and it is then very elaflic, even fo as to fpring and bound about with the leaft motion or flexure of the body : this is decorated with foft white plumes of heron feathers.
A very curious diadem or band, about four inches broad, and mgenioufly wrought or woven, and  curioufly  decorated with  (tones, beads, wampum, porcupine quills, £cc, encircles ihcir Kki temples ;
temples; the front peak of it being embellifhed with a high waving plume, of crane or heron
feathers.
The clothing of their body is very fimplc and frugal. Sometimes a ruffled fhirt of fine linen, next the fkin, and a flap, which covers their lower parts; this garment fomewhat refembles the ancient Roman breeches, or the kilt of the Highlanders ; it ufually confiffs of a piece of blue cloth, about eighteen inches wide ; this they pafs between their thighs, and both ends being taken up and drawn through a belt round their waiff, the ends fall down, one before, and the other behind, not quite to the knee ; this flap is ufually plaited and indented at the ends, and ornamented with beads, tinted lace, 8cc.
The leg is furnilhed with cloth boots ; they reach from the ancle to the calf, and are ornamented with lace, beads, lilver bells, &c.
The ftillepica or moccalin defends and adorns the feet; it feems to be an imitation of the ancient bufkin or fandal, very ingenioufly made of deer (kins, dreffed very foft, and curioufly ornamented according to fancy.
Befide this attire, they have a large mantle of the fined cloth they are able to purchafe, always either of a fcarlet or blue colour; this mantle is fancifully decorated with rich lace or fringe round the border, and often with little round filver, or brafs bells. Some have a fhort cloak, jufl -large enough to cover the (boulders and breaft; this is molt ingenioufly conftructed, of feathers woven or placed in a natural imbricated manner, ulually of the fcarlet feathers of the flamingo, or Others of the ^ayeft colour.
4 The\
They have large filver crefcents, or gorgets, which being fufpended by a ribband round the neck, lie upon the breaft ; and the arms are ornamented with lilver bands, or bracelets, and filver and gold chains, Sec, a collar inverts the neck.
The head, neck and breaft, arc painted with vermillion, and fome of the warriors have the fkin of the breaft, and mufcular parts of the body, very curioufly inscribed, or adorned, with hieru-glyphick fcrolls, flowers, figures of animals, (tars, ci efcents, and the fun in the centre of the breaft. This painting of the flefh, I underhand, is performed in their youth, by pricking the fkin with a needle, until the blood ftarts, and rubbing in a blueiih tinct, which is as permanent as their life. The fhirt hangs loofe about the waift, like a frock, or fplit down before, refembling a gown, and is fometimes wrapped clofe, and the waift encircled by a curious belt or fafti.
The drefs of the females is fomewhat different from that of the men : their flap or petticoat is made after a different manner, is larger and longer, reaching almoll to the middle of the leg, and is put on differently ; they have no fhirt or Ihift, but a little fhort waiftcoat, ufually made of cal-lico, printed linen, or fine cloth, decorated with lace, beads, &c. They never wear boots or ftockings, but their bufkins reach to the middle of the leg. They neyer cut their hair, but plait it in wreaths, which are turned up, and fattened on the crown, with a filver broach, forming a wreathed top-knot, decorated with an incredible quantity of filk ribbands, of various colours, which ftream down on every lide, almoft, to the ground. They never paint, except thofe of a particular clafs, when difpofed to grant certain favours to the other fex.
K k 3 But
But thefe decorations are only to be considered as indulgencics on particular occafions, and the privilege of youth ; as at weddings, fedivaJs, dances, &c, or when the men affemble to act the war farce, on the evening immediately preceding their march on a noddle expedition : for ufually they are almod naked, contenting themfelves with the flap and fometimes a fliirt, boots and moccafins. The mantle is feldom worn by the men, except at night, in the winter feafon, when extremely cold ; and by the women at dances, when it ferves the purpofe of a veiL; and the females always wear the jacket, hap, .^d bufkin, even children as foon or before they can walk ; whereas the male youth go perfectly naked until they are twelve or fifteen years of age.
The junior prieds or dudents condantly wear the mantle or robe, which is white ; and they have a great owl fkin caied and duffed very ingenioufly, fo well executed, as almod to represent the living bird, having large fparkling glafs beads, or buttons, fixed in the head for eyes : this enfign of wifdom and divination, they wear fometimes as a cred on the top of the head, at other times the image fits on the arm, or is borne on the hand. Thcle bachelors are alfo didin-guifhable from the other people, by their taciturnity, grave and foleran countenance, dignified dep, and linging to themfelves fongs or hymns, in a low fweet voice, as they droll about the towns.
Thefe people like all other nations, are fond of mufic and dancing : their mufic is both vocal and indrumcntal; but of the latter they have fcarcely any thing worth the name; the tambour, rattle-gourd, and a kind of flute, made of a joint of reed
m
or the tibia of the deer's leg : on this inftrument they perform badly, and at beft it is rather a hideous melancholy difcord, than harmony. It isonly young fellows who amufe themfelves on this howling inftrument; but the tambour and rattle, accompanied with their fweet low voices, produce a pathetic harmony, keeping exact time together, and the countenance of the mufician,at proper times, feems to exprefs the folemn elevated ftate of the mind : at that time there feems not only a harmony between him and his inftrument, but it inftantly touches the feelings of the attentive audience, as the influence of an active and powerful fpirit; there is then an united univerfal fenfation of delight and peaceful union of fouls throughout the aftembly.
Their mufic, vocal and inftrumental, united, keeps exact time with the performers or dancers.
They have an cndlefs variety of fteps, but the moft common, and that which I term the molt civil, and indeed the moft admired and practifed amongft themfelves, is a flow ihuitling alternate itep ; both feet move forward one after the other, firft the right foot forcmoft, and next the left, moving one after the other, in oppofite circles, i, e. firft a circle of young men, and within, a circle of young women, moving together oppofite ways, the men with the courfe ol the fun, and the females contrary to it; the men ftrike their arm with the open hand, and the girls clap hands, and raife their fhrill fweet voices, anfwering an elevated fhout of the men at (fated times of termination of the ftanzas ; and the girls perform an interlude or chorus feparately.
To .accompany their dances they have fongs, K k 4 "ot
of different claffes, as martial, bacchanalian and amorous; which laft, I muft confers, are extravagantly libidinous ; and they have moral fongs, which feem to be the moft efteemed and practif-ed, and anfwer the purpofe of religious lectures.
Some of their moft favourite fongs and dances, ihey have from their enemies, the Chactaws; for it feems thefe people are very eminent forpoetry and mufic; every town amongft them Strives to excel each other in compofmg new fongs for dances; and by a cutlom amongft them, they muft have at leaft one new fong, for exhibition, at every annual bulk.
The young muft.ee, who came with me to the Mucclaffes Srom Mobile, having Chactaw blood in his veins from his mother, was a fenfible young fellow, and by his father had been instructed in reading,'writing and arithmetic, and could Speak Englifh very well.   He took it into his head to travel into the Chactaw country : his views were magnanimous, and his defigns in the highett degree commendable, nothing leSs than to inform himSelf of every fpecies oS arts and Sciences, that might be of ufe and advantage when introduced into his own country, but more particularly mufic and poetry.   With thefe views he privately left the Nation, went to Mobile, and there entered into the Service of the trading company to the Chactaws, as a white man; his eafy, communicative, active and familiar difpofition and manners, being agreeable to that people, procured him accefs every where, and favoured his fubtilty and artifice : at length, however, the Chactaws hearing of his lineage and confangui-nity with the Creeks, by the father's fide, pronounced him a Creek, and consequently an enemy
my and a fpy amongft them, and fecretly refolved to difpatch him. The young philofopher got notice of their fufpicions, and hoftilc intentions, in time to make his efcape ; though clofcly purfued, he kept a head of his fanguinary puriuers, arrived at Mobile, and threw himfelf under the protection of the Englifh, entered the fervice of the trader of Mucclaffe, who was then fetting off for the Nation, and notwithftanding the fpeed with which we travelled, narrowly efcaped the ardour and vigilance of his purfuing enemies, who furprifed a company of emigrants, in the defarts of Schambe, the very night after we met them, expecting to intercept him thereabout.
The young traveller having learned all their moft celebrated new fongs and poetry, at a great dance and feftival in the Mucclaffe, a day or two after our arrival, the youth preffed him to give out fome of his new fongs * he complied with their entreaties, and the fongs and dance went round with harmony and eclat.   There was a young Chactaw Have girl in the circle, who foon after difcovered very affecting fenfations of affliction and diftrefs of mind, and before thecon-clufion of the dance, many of her companions complimented her with fympathetic fighs and tears, from their own fparkling eyes.   As foon as 1 had an opportunity, I inquired of the young Orpheus, the caufe of that fong being fo diftreff-ing to the young flave.   He replied, that when, flic was lately taken captive, her father and brothers were flain in the conteft, and (he under-ftanding the fenfe of the fong, called to remembrance the tragical fate of her family, and could not forbear weeping at the recital.
The
The meaning of the chorus was.
All men muft furely die, Tho* no one knows how foon, Yet when the time fhall come, The event may be joyful.
Thefe doleful moral fongs or elegies, have $ quick and fenfible effect on their paflions, and difcover a lively affection and fenfibility: their countenance now dejected, again, by an cafy transition, becomes gently elevated, as if in iolcmn addrefs or iupplication, accompanied with a tremulous, fweet, lamentable voice ; a ft ranger is for a moment loft to himfelf as it were, or his mind, affociated with the perfon immediately affected, is in danger of revealing his own diftrefs unawares.
They have a variety of games for exercife and paftime ; fome particular to the men, fome to the female fex, and others wherein both fcxes are engaged.
The ball play is efteemed the moft noble and manly exercife. This game is exhibited in an extenfive level plain, ufually contiguous to the town : the inhabitants of one town play againft another, in confequence of a challenge, when the youih of both fexes are often engaged, and fometimes ftakc their whole fubftancc. Here they perform amazing feats of ftrength and agility. The game principally confifts in taking and carrying off the ball from the oppofite party, after being hurled into the air, midway between two high pillar:;, which are the goals, and the party who bears off the ball to their pillar wins the game ; each perfon has a racquet or hurl, which )g an implement of a very curious construction,
fomewhat
fomewhat refembling a ladle or little hoop-net, with a handle near thiec feet in length, the hoop and handle of wood, and the netting of thongs of raw hide, or tendons of an animal.
The foot ball is likewife a favourite, manly di-verfion with them. Feasting and dancing in the fquare at evening, ends all their games.
They have befides, feaftsor festivals almoft for every month in the year, which are chiefly dedicated to hunting and agriculture.
The bulk, or fealt of firft fruits, is their principal feftival ; this feems to end the laft, and begin the new year.
It commences in Auguft, when their new crops of corn are arrived to perfect maturity : and every town celebrates the bulk feparatcly, when their own harvest is ready.
If they have any religious rite or ceremony, this feilival is us moft folemn celebration.
When a town celebrates the bulk, having pre-vioufty provided themfelves with new cloaths, nevv pots, pans and other houfehold utenfils and furniture, they collect, alt their worn out clothes and other defpicable things, fweep and eleanfe their houfes, fquares, and the whole town, of their filth, which with all the remaining grain and other old provifions, they eaft together into one common heap, and confume it with fire. After having taken medicine, and fafted for three days, all the fire in the town is extinguifbed. During this faft they abftain from the gratification of every appetite and paffion whatever. A general amnesty is proclaimed, all malefactors may return to their town, and they are abfolved from
their
their crimes, which are now forgotten, and they rcftored to favour.
On the fourth morning, the high prieft, by rub^ bing dry wood together, produces new fire in the public fquare, from whence every habitation in the town is fupplied with the new and pure flame.
Then the women go forth to the harveft field, and bring from thence new corn and fruits, which being prepared in the beft manner, in various dilhes, and drink withal, is brought with folem-nity to the fquare, where the people are aflem-bled, apparelled in their new clothes and decor*-ations. The men having regaled themfelves, the remainder is carried off and distributed amongft: the families of the town. The women and children folace themfelves in their feparate families, and in the evening repair to the public fquare, where they dance, ling, and rejoice during the whole night, obferving a proper and exemplary decorum : this continues three days, and the four following days they receive vifits, and rejoice with their friends from neighbouring towns, who have purified and prepared themfelves.
CHAP.
CHAP. IV.
Concerning PROPERTY, AGRICULTURE, ARTS ani> MANUFACTURES.
IT has been faid by historians, who have written concerning the cuftoms and ufages of the aborigines of America, that they have everything in common, and no private property; which are terms in my opinion too vague and general, when applied to thefe people. From my own frequent opportunities of obfervation, and the information of refpectable characters, who have fpent many years amongft them, I venture to fet this matter in a juft view before.my readers.
I fhall begin with the produce of their agricultural labours.
An Indian town is generally fo fituated, as to be convenient for procuring game, fecure from hidden invafion, having a large diftrict of excellent arable land adjoining, or in its vicinity, if poffible on an ifthmus betwixt two waters, or where the doubling of a river forms a peninfula. Such a fituation generally comprifes a fufficient body of excellent land for planting Corn, Potatoes, Beans, Squafh, Pumpkins, Citruls, Melons, &c, and is taken in with a fmall expence and trouble of fencing, to fecure the crops from the invafion of predatory animals. At other times however they choofe fuch a convenient fertile fpot at fome diftance from their town, when circumstances will not admit of having both together.
This
This is their common plantation, and the whole town plant in one vaft field together; but yet the part or fhare of every individual family or habitation, is Separated from the next adjoining, by a narrow Strip, or verge of grafs, or any other natural or artificial boundary.
In the fpring, the ground being already prepared, on one and the fame day, early in the morning, the whole town is fummoned, by the found of a conch fhell, from the mouth of the overfeer, to meet at the public fquare, whither the people repair with their hoes and axes; and from thence proceed to their plantation, where they begin to plant, not every one in his own little district:, affigned and laid out, but the whole community united begins on one certain part of the field, where they plant on until finifhed; and when their rifing crops are ready for dreffmg and cleanfing, they proceed after rhe fame order, and fo on day after day, until the crop is laid by for ripening. After the feaft of the bufk is over, and all the grain is ripe, the whole town again affem-ble, and every man carries off the fruits of his labour, from the part firft allotted to him, which he depofits in his own granary ; which is individually his own.   But previous to their carrying off their crops from the field, there is a large crib or granary, erected in the plantation, which is called the king's crib ; and to this each family carries and depofits a certain quantity, according to his ability or inclination, or none at all if he fo choofes: this ia appearance feems a tribute or revenue to the mico ; but in fact: is defigned for another purpofe, 1. c. that of a public treafury, fupplied by a few and voluntary contributions, and to which every citizen has the right of free
and equal accefs, when his own private {lores are confumed ; to ferve as a furplus to fly to for fuc-cour; to aflifl neighbouring towns, whofe crops may have failed ; accommodate Strangers, or travellers : afford provif ons or fnpplies, when they go forth on hoflile expeditions ; and for all other exigencies of the date : and this treafure is at the difpofal of the king or mico; which is furely a royal attribute, to have an exclusive right and ability in a community to diflribute comfort and bieflings to the necessitous.
As to mechanic arts or manufactures, at prefent they have fcarcely any thing worth obferva-tion, fince they are Supplied with neceffaries, conveniencies, and even fuperfluities by the white traders. The men perform nothing except erecting theit mean habitations, forming their canoes, (lone p. pes. tambiSur, eagles tail or Standard, and fome Other tiifhng matters; for war and hunting are their principal employments. The women arc more vigilant, and turn their attention to various manual employments; they make all their pottery or earthen-ware, moccafins. fpin and weave the cur.ous belts and diadems for men, fabricate laie, fringe, embroider and decorate their apparel, &c. &c.
CHAP.
CHAP. V.
OF their MARRIAGE and FUNERAL CEREMONIES.
AS to their marriage ceremonies, they are very iimple, yet differ greatly in the various nations and tribes. Amongft fome of the bands in the Mufcogulge confederacy, I was informed the myftery is performed after the following manner. When a young man has fixed his affections, and is determined to marry, he takes a Cane or Reed, fuch as they flick down at the hills of their Bean vines for their fupport: with this (after having obtained her parents' or nearcft relations' con-fent) he repairs to the habitation of his beloved, attended by his friends and aflbciates, and in the prefence of the wedding guefts, he flicks his Reed down, upright in the ground ; when foon after his fweet-heart comes forth with another Reed, which fhe flicks down by the fide of his, when they are married : then they exchange Reeds, which are laid by as evidences or certificates of the marriage, which is celebrated with feafting, mufic and dancing : each one of their relations and friends, at the wedding, contribute fomething towards eftablifhing the new family. As foon as the wedding is over, the town is convened, and the council orders or recommends a new habitation to be conftructed for the accommodation of the new family ; every man in the town joins in the work, which is begun and finilhed in a day's time.
The greateft accomplifhments to recommend a young man to his favourite maid, are to prove himfelf a brave warrior, and a cunning, induftri-ous hunter.
They
They marry only for a year's time, and, according to ancient cuftom, at the expiration of the year they renew the marriage : but there is fel-dom an instance of their Separating after they have children. If it fhould fb happen, the mother takes the children under her own protection, though the father is obliged to contribute towards their maintainance during their minority and the mother's widowhood.
The Mufcogulges allow of polygamy in the utmost latitude; every man takes as many wives as he chooSes, but the firft is queen, and the others her handmaids and alfociates.
It is common for a great man amongft them, who has already half a dozen wives, if he lees a child of eight or nine years of age, who pleafcs him, and he can agree with her parents or guardians, to marry her and take her into his houfe at that age.
Adultery is always puniftied with cropping, which is the only corporal puniftiment amongft them ; and death or out-lawry for murder ; and infamy for lefs crimes, as fornication, theft, &c, which produces fuch repeated marks and reflections of ridicule and contempt, that it generally ends in voluntary banilhment; and thefe rene-gadocs and vagabonds are generally the ruffians who commit depredations and murders on the frontiers.
The Mufcogulges bury their deceafed in the earth. They dig a four-fquare deep pit under the cabin or couch which the deceafed lay on, in his houfe, lining the grave with Cyprefs bark, where they place the corpfe in a fitting pofture, as if it were alive; depositing with him his gun, toma-L 1 hawk,
hawk, pipe, and fuch other matters as he had the greateft value for in his life time. His eldett wife, or the queen dowager, has the fecond choice of his pclfcflions, and the remaining effects are divided amongft his other wives and children.
The Chactaws pay their laft duties and refpect to the deceafed in a very different manner. As foon as a perfon is dead, they erect a fcaffold eighteen or twenty feet high, in a grove adjacent to the town, where they lay the corpfe, lightly covered with a mantle ; here It is fuffered to remain, vifited and protected by the friends and relations, until the flefh becomes putrid, fo as ealily to part from the bones ; then undertakers, who make it their bufinefs, carefully (trip the flefh from the bones, walh and cleanfe them, and when dry and purified by the air, having provided a curioufly wrought cheft or coffin, fabricated of bones and fplints, they place all the bones therein ; it is then deposited in the bone-houfe, a building erected for that purpofe in every town. And when this houfe is full, a general folemn funeral takes place ; the nea-eft kindred or friends of the deceafed, on ar day appointed, repair to the bone-houfe, take up the rclpcctivc coffins, and following one another in order of feniorky, the neareft relations and connexions attending their respective corpfe, and the multitude following after them, all as one family, with united voice of alternate Allelujah and lamentation, flowly proceed to the place of general interment, where they place the coffins in order,, forming a pyramid * ;. and laftly, cover
* Sonic ingenious men, whom I have converted with, have given it as their opinion,, that all thole pyramidal artificial hills, ufually called Indian mounts, weie railed on thefe occalicn^, and .ue generally fepulchrcs. However i am ot a different opinion,
all
ill oVer with earth, which raifes a conical hill or mount. Then they return to town in order of folcmn proceflion, concluding the day with a festival, which is called the fealt of the dead.
The Chactaws are called by the traders flats, or flat-heads, all the males having the fore and hind part of their fkulls artificially flattened, or compreffed ; which is effected after the following manner. As foon as the child is born, the nurfe provides a cradle or wooden cafe, hollowed and fafhioned, to receive the infant, lying proftrate On its back, that part of the cafe where the head re-pofes, being fafhioned like a brick mould. In this portable machine the little boy is fixed, a bag of fand being laid on his forehead, which by continual gentle compreflion, gives the head fomewhat the form of a brick from the temples upwards ; and by thefe means they have high and lofty foreheads, Hoping off backwards. Thefe men are not fo neat in the trim of their heads, as the Mufcogulges are, and they are remarkably flovenly and negligent in every part of their drefs; but otherwife they are faid to be ingenious, fenfible and virtuous men ; bold and intrepid, yet quiet and peaceable, and are acknowledged by the Creeks to be brave.
They are fuppofed to be moft ingenious and industrious hufbandmen, having large plantations, or cotintry farms, where they employ much of their time in agricultural improvements, after the manner of the white people; by which means their territories are more generally cultivated, and better inhabited, than any other Indian republic that we know of. The number of their inhabitants is faid greatly to exceed the whole Mufcogulge confederacy, although their tcrri-
L 1 2 tories
tories are not a fourth part as extenfive. It appeared to me from observation, and what information I could get, that the Indians entertain rational notions of the foul's immortality, and of a future ftate of focial exiftence ; and accordingly, in order to inculcate morality, and promote human happinefs, they applaud praife-worthy actions, as commendable and necelfary for the fupport of civil fociety, and maintaining the dignity and ftrength of their nation or tribe, as well as fecuring an excellent and tranquil ftate and degree in the world of fpirits, after their de-ceafe. And they fay the Great Spirit favours all good and brave men.
CHAP.
CHAP. VI.
LANGUAGE and MANNERS.
The Mufcogulge language isfpoken throughout the confederacy, (althoughconfiftingof many nations, who have a fpeech peculiar to themfelves) as alfo by their friends and allies, the Natches. The Chicafaw and Chactaw, the Mufcogulges fay are dialects of theirs.
This language is very agreeable to the ear, courteous, gentle and mufical: the letter R is not founded in one word of their language : the women in particular fpeak fo fine and muiical, as to reprefentthe fingingof birds ; and when heard and not feen, one might imagine it to be the prattling of young children. The men's fpeech is indeed more ftrong and fonorous, but not harfh, and in no inttance guttural, and I believe the letter R is not ufed to exprefs any word, in any language of the confederacy.
The Cherokee tongue, on the contrary, is very loud, fomewhat rough and very fonorous, founding the letter R frequently, yet very agreeable and pleafant to the ear. All the Indian languages are truly rhetorical, or figurative, aflifling their fpeech by tropes; their hands, flexure of the head, the brow, in ihort, every member, naturally affociate, and give their affiftance to render their harangues eloquent, perfuafive and effectual.
The pyramidal hills or artificial mounts, and high-ways, or avenues, leading from them to artificial lakes or ponds, vaft tetragon terraces,
chunk
chunk yards*, and obelifks or pillars of wood, ar© the only monuments of labour, ingenuity and magnificence, that I have feen worthy of notice* or remark.   The region lying between Savanna river and Oakmulge, Eaft and Weft, and from the fea coaft to the Cherokee or Apalacheart mountains, North and South, is the moft remarkable for thefe high conical hills, tetragon terraces and chunk yards.   This region was poflefled by the Cherokees, fince the arrival of the Europeans, but they were afterwards difpoflefled by the Mufcogulges, and all that country was probably, many ages preceeding the Cherokee invafion, inhabited by one nation or confederacy, who were ruled by the fame fyftem of laws, cuftoms and language , but fo ancient, that the Cherokees, Creeks, or the nation they conquered, could render no account for what purpofe thefe monuments were raifed.   The mounts and cubical yards adjoining them, feem to have been raifed in part for ornament and recreation, and likewife to ferve fome other public purpofe, fince they are always fo fituated as to command the moft extenfive profpect over the town and country adjacent. The tetragon terraces feem to be the foundation of a fortrefs ; and perhaps the great pyramidal mounts, ferved the purpofe of look out towers, and high places for Sacrifice.   The Sunken area, called by white traders the chunk yard, very likely Served the fame conveniency that it has been appropriated to it by the more modern and even prefent nations of Indians, that is, the place where they burnt and otherwife tortured the unhappy cap-
* Chunk yard, a term given by the white traders, to the oblong four fquare yards, adjoining the high mounts and rotundas of the modem Indians—In the centre of thefe (tands the obclifk, and at each corner of the farther end; ftands a flave poft or ftroug flake, where the captives that are burnt alive are kound,
tivea
lives that were condemned to die ; as the area is furrounded by a bank, and fometimes two of them, one behind and above the other, as feats, to accommodate the Spectators at fuch tragical fcenes, as well as the exhibition of games, (hows, and dances. From the river St. Juans, Southerly to the point of the peninfula ol Florida, are to be Seen high pyramidal mounts, with fpacious and extenfive avenues, leading from them out oSthe town, to an artilicial lake or pond of water ; thefe were evidently deligned in part for ornament or monuments of magnificence, to perpetuate the power and grandeur of the nation, and not inconfiderable neither, for they exhibit fcenes of power and grandeur, and mull have been public edifices.
The great mounts, highways, and artificial lakes up S. Juans, on the Eaft fhore, juft at the entrance or the great Lake George, one on the oppofite fhore, on the bank of the Little Lake, another on Dunn's Ifland, a little below Charlo'tteville, one on the large beautiful ifland juft without the Capes of Lake George, in fight of Mount Royal, and a fpacious one on the Weft banks of the Mufquitoe river near New Smyrna, are the moft remarkable of this fort that occurred to me; but undoubtedly many more are yet to be difcovered farther South in the peninfula ; however I obferved none Weftward, after I left St. Juans on my journey 10 little St.. Juan, near the bay of Apalache.
But in all the region of the Mufcogulge country, South-Weft from the Oakmulge River quite to the Tallapoofe, down to the city of Mobile, and thence along lhe fea coaft, to the Miffiffipi, J faw no Signs of mountains or highways, except
at
at Taenfa, where were feveral inconfiderable co« nical mountains; and but one instance of the tetragon terraces, which was at the Apalachucla old town, on the Weft banks of that river : here were yet remaining confpicuous monuments, as vail four fquare terraces, chunk yards, &c, almoft equalling thofe eminent ones at the Oakmulge fields; but no high conical mounts. Thofe Indians have a tradition that thefe remains are the ruins of an ancient Indian town and fortrefs. I was not in the interior parts of the Chactaw territories, and therefore am ignorant whether there are any mounts or monuments there.
To conclude this fubject: concerning the monuments of the Americans, I deem it neceffary to obferve as my opinion, that none of them that I have feen difcover the leaft figns of the arts, fciences, or architecture of the Europeans or other inhabitants of the old world ; yet evidently betray every fign or mark of the moft diftant antiquity.
INDEX.
INDEX.
A
A
GAVE vivipara — — xlx
427
Alabama
Alachua favanna                  —               — 18 j
Alatamaha, voyage up the            —            — 47
--account of the            —            — 51
Alligator Hole            —            —            — 236
■              battle with an             — —- 248
Alligators, battle between two            —         — 116
, author attacked by —- 117,123
■--brood of, numerous           —        — 124
--nefts of              —               — 125
,--, old, feed on the young               — ia6
■--defcribed               —               — ib.
Amelia ifland                   —                   — 63
Amite river                —                  — 423
Ampelis garrulus             — —- 296
Angelica lucida                   —                  — 325
Animals and vegetables compared                — xiv
—— general obfervation on             — xvi
■— affections of —-              — xvii
--mental faculties of         —          — xviii
.--remarkable fragility of parts of      — 194, 276
———influence of country on — 214 Annona, new fpecies of — 18,169 Apalachucla — —- — 387 Arum efculentum cultivated for food in Georgia and Florida — — 467 Arundo gigantea — — 408 Afilus, various fpecies of — — 38} Augufta, journey to — — 2S - defcribed — — 32,314 Author attacked by a fever                — 409
.....■-■ ■■.......—violent diforder in the eyes 416, 418
Banks
B
Banks of the river St. Juan higher than the adjacent
plains               —            —            — 163
Battle between cray-fifh and gold-fifh            — 43
.-             ■      two alligators                 — \ 16
Bears                 -—                 — 278
Bees, none in Weft Florida, though plenty in Eaft 411
Birds, obfervations on xxi —— on the migration of              —                 280, 295
m-      of paffage, American                  — 285
—— change their colour — 296 —— wild, fing only at the time of incubation       xxii, 299
Boat, portable                 —               — 457
Bream, golden               — <— 151
■1          great black or blue                  — 174
.--— great yellow, or particoloured             — ib.
Bridge, Indian                  —                  — 443
Brunfwick, town of                  — .— 471
Buffalo, not now to be foiind where once numerous 44
Bull fnake                 —               — 272
Butterflies                        —             — xix
Cacalia heterophylla               —             — 162
Cactus opuntia                —              — 161
Cambelton                    — 476
Cancer macrourus, war of the gold-fifh on the ja
Cane meadows, vaft              — —> 231
Canna Indica                  — —- 424
Carica papaya                  —            — 129
Cat bird —-               — 297
Cattle, dreadful difeafe of                    — 20<;
Cedar bird            — —- 296
Chaftaws —•               — 515
Chameleon               —                  — 276
Charleflon, voyage from Philadelphia to — 1
Charlotta                  —                   — 91
Chat, yellow breafted            —            — 300
Chicken fnake                  —             — 271
Clarendon river                  — _ 476
Clay, fort of, eaten greedily by cattfe — 39
Cleome lupinifolia               — — 423
Cliffs, defcription of the —> 433
Coach whip fnake              — — aij
Cochineal infect                  — — 161
Collinfonia, fpecies of, febrifuge — 409
Colymbus cauda elongata — 130
Convolvulus diffectus <— 10a
Coolome town                    — — 394
Cornus florida —- mm 399
Cowe                    — —                   350, 364
Coweta                  'mm — 387
Cow-pen, account of a —            — 308
Crane, flight of the —            —144
.     — nefts and eggs of the — 190;
,--favanna                   — — 2i8
Creeks, Upper, alliance of, with the Englilh 53
v    — account of the —             ao8,463
■     — Lower, or Siminoles — 209
Crofs-Creeks                  — — 475
Crown bird               ~ — 296
Crying bird                  — i45
Cucurbita lagenaria —         47 j
Cupreflus difticha                   — — 88
..           new fpecies of — 409
Curlews, Spanifh                  — mm 146
Cufcowilla, journey to — 168
■i-             defcription of —- 189
Cyprinus coronarius — 1^1
D
Deer, herd of                 —                 _ 198
Dionaea mufcipula              —            — xiii, 470
Pog brought up to tend horfes ■— 220
Dove, ground              —                 — 8
Pyeing, bark of the gordonia lafianthus ufeful in j6q
E
Eagles, various                     —               — 8
Earth, on the produce of the different zones of the ix
1 ■ ■ - remarks on certain ftrata of             — 433
Elks only to be found in the Apalachean mountains 45
Ernberiza oryzivora                  — 494
Ephemerae
Ephemera — — 78—81
Erythryna corallodendrum — 160
Falco pifcatorius —- 8
Falling Creek                   —                — 339
Fascinating power of the rattlefna'<e —- ' 263 Febrifuge virtues of a fpecies of Collinfonia        — 409
Felis cauda truncata                         — 278
Fern, curious fpecies of                         — 476
Fiih, red-belly                  —                  — 1%
-vaft quantity of, in the river St. Juans 121
«--      of prey and others living peaceably together in pellucid
water              —            —            164, 166, 227
Fifhing, mode of                             — 106
Fiat-rock                 —                     — 374
Flies, various fperies of            —             — 383
Florida, journey to             —                  — 55
--Eaft, very good Indigo made in
——— Weft, journey to                  — 373
Fort Moore                  —                  — 313
James                          —                   — 321
.—— Prince George Keowe               — 328
Fox                       —                       — 278
— fquirrels                  —                  — 279
Fragility, extraordinary in animals         — 194, 276
Franklinla Alatamaha                     — 465
Frederica, town and fort of                   — 60
--voyage to            —                  — 303
French fettlement            —              — 431
--------broken up by the Indians         — 432,
Frogs, various fpecies of            —            — £72
Carr, great brown fpotted — — 173
Georgia, voyage to — —-4
--iflands on the coaft of — 5, 6-j
--—.__--why thinly inhabited 64
Gerardea fiammea — — 410
GJafs-fnake — — 193
Gold fifh, war of, on the cray fifh — 4?
-,-defcribed — — 44
.Gopher — — — 18, 180
Gordonia
INDIX.
Gordonia lafianthus              — — i
Gourd, ufeful fpecies of            — — 477
Grape vines            —            — —         84, 398
Grapes, Indian mode of preferving —         — 398
Grafs, peculiar fpecies ot            — —< 128
Graves, Indian         —           — — 137
Green fnake             —         — ■— 271
Grus pratenfis, flight of the —- — 144
-->--nefts and eggs of the —         — 190,
----defcribed         — — 218
II
Halefia diptera, variety of                  — ^0g
Half-way pond            —            — — jyZ
Hawk, fifhing — — _ g
■-engaged with a fnake — 216
Hibifcus, fpecies of        — —■ 19, 102, 103
■ -cocci nens                — —— i0s
Ilippobofia — — ._ ^83
Honeftv, advantages of .— —
Horn fnake         —         — .— —
Horfes, Siminole, of the Spanifh breed .— 213
--kept by a dog            — —. '222
—--large ftud of —*        — —         3 53
fondnefs of, for fait         — —« 3^4
——— fingular mode of taming — 37^
---— flies extremely troublefome to — 384
Hurricane          —         —            _ 139, 384
Hydrangia quercifolia            — — 380
1
Indian pot, curious               —               — 6
--1 interview with an            —            — 2t
—— remarks on the moral principle of an 2a
■■ . ....... people, a peculiar race of              — 21;
--towns, remains of 37, 196, 343, 388
—-fagacity            —            —            — 39
--mode of killing trout       —            — 44
-village            —            —            — 90
1-wife of a white man, mifconducl: of an 109
.. — deferts the author — — 113 -— cemetery            —           —            — 137
Indian
Indian chiefs — m 183, 235, 3 ft)
.--towns             — 189,327,348,384,394.
----punifhment for adultery —       an, 446, 513
.--public buildings           — 302, 365, 448, 452.
.--antiquities          — 322, 365, 370, 455, 519
-.— feftivals         —         — 233, 367, 449, 507
■          towns and villages, lifts of —          371, 46 c
--languages               — 386, 461, 463, 517
—— wedding             — —              444, 512 chief's revenge on a trader caught in adultery with his
wife            —            — —- 446
.     —ftandard ■— 453
.— painting and fculpure —           — 454
canoes              — —          — 225
-jelly — — — 239
——— mufic — — 243, 503
-—drinking bout — 253
. women, artifice of — — 254
1. games —» — — ijo6
Indians, remarks on the — xxiii, 184, 208
--treaties with the — — 33*235
--food of —* — — 38
*i plunder the ftores — — 61
< ■ ■— matters accommodated with the — 76
———virtues of — 22, 110, 208, 4H8
--veneration of, for the rattlefnake 258
■■—form of Salutation amongft — 182
»rnin — vifit to the — — ib.
« manners and cuftoms of the       182, 184, 189, 207,
349» 367* 44s*
.-— habitations of the 189, 365, 386, 395, 444
----vices of the — — 210
wars of the — — 211,390
<-migration of the — — 37rj
■1 maffacre, of the whites by 388 note
---roving difpofition of the — 389
* carry off a party of emigrants —* 444
— murder fome white travellers — 235
1 hunting party of — — Z42
--1— party of, in purfuit of an adulterer 243
1 j '1 — fondnefs of, for fpirits — -—» 253
——conference with — — 25$
--* perfons and qualifications of the — 4y 1
-government and civil fociety of the 49a
*—• drefs, feafts, and diverfions of — 499
Indians
Indians property, agriculture, arts, and manufactures of the
—             —     .       —             — COCJ
jl.i. .    marriage ceremonies of the —- 5 \%
■   — funeral ceremonies of the           — 5 r -5
Indigo, very good, made in Eaft Florida —1 75-
Ipomea, fpecies of —- — 374 Iron ore — — — 221,376,401 Iflands on the coaft of Georgia             —               t, 65
,-            , , -why thinly inhabited 64
-     —floating            —            —            — 86
--in Lake George            —            — 100
Iile of Palms            —            —            — 155
J
Jelly, Indian            —            —            — a^rj
Jore mountains            —            —            — 360
Journey to Cufcowilla            —            — 168
-Talahafochte            —            — 21 j
-— from Charleflon to the Cherokee country 306
- over the Jore mountain               — 3^7
from Fort Charlotte to Weft Florida 373
1           from Apalachucla to Mobile            — 304
-— Savanna to Philadelphia             — 467
Juglans, manner in which the Indians ufe the fruit of a
fpecies of             —               — 3$
K
Kalmia, new fpecies of            —               _ 18
Keowe            —            — _ 328
L
Lacerta, fpecies of — — 170, 276-
Lake Ouaquaphenogaw              —               — 24
-George         —         —         —         — 0,9
Laittana ramerara         — —•            —~ jot
Laurel magnolia             I—             —             — 83
Lettuce, Indian             —             — —- 42.
Liberty, obfervations on            —            — 184
Lime, wild — — — II3r Lizard, fpecies of            _            — 170,276
Lupin, fpecies of        —          —            — 19
f vnx            —            — —.         — 278
Magnolia,
M
Magnolia, laurel —.            — —
—-peculiar fpecies of             — i^g, 338
--grandiflora            — —■ t6y
•-— auriculata         —             — ~.
Malva, various fpecies of            — —
Manite Spring        —         —         — — 228
Melcagris occidentals            — —            14, 81
Mice, white             —             — — 277
Milk, hiccory            —            — — 3*4
Mimofa fenlitiva, new fpecies of — 24
—--virgata           —            — — 419
■-pudica             —             — — 428
Miffiffippi river         —             — .— 425
Mobile, journey from Apalachucla to —- 394.
--town of            —            — — 402.
Moccafin fnake             —                — 268, 269
Moral principle of an Indian, remarks on the 22
Motacilla trochilus             —                — 300
Mount Royal            —            — — 96
Mudfifh          —          —           — 174
Mufcicapa vertice nigro            — — 297
Mufcle, horned             —             — —        431
Myrica inodora       —            — —            40 3
N
Natural productions, obfervations on — x
New-Smyrna            —            — — 142
Nymphsea nelumbo            — —- 407
Nyfla coccinea            —            ■— — 17
O
Oak, black            —            — — 3^7
Ocean appears to have gained on the land of America 66
Oenothera grandiflora             — — 404
Oil, fweet, obtained from the fruit of the live oak 83
Olive, Indian           —            — — 41
P
Palm tree                            — — 113
Palmetto
Palmetto royal           —           — — 69
Panicum hirtellum            — — 428
Parakeet            —             — — 299
Pearl Ifland            —            — — 419
Pelican defcribed            —          — — 68
'--wood          —             — — 149
Penfacola, account of            — — 413
Petrifactions         —            — —        473, 475
Phyfic-nut                —            — — 41
Pica glandaria cerulea non criftata — 170
Picolata, fort            —            — — 78
Pigeons, mode of catching            — — 467
Pine fnake         —         —           — —■ 272
Piftia ftratiotes          —             — — 86
Pitch, how made from tar             — —          417
Plains, barren         — ■— — 240
Plants various, obfervations on — x
--new — 16,31,393,415,434,465,46b
Plum, new fpecies of             — — 421
Pot, Indian, curious                 — — 6
Prinos, curious fpecies of             — — 477
Pfittacus Carolinienfis             — — 299
Pteris fcandens             —             — — 476
R
Ranae, various fpecies of           — — 272
Rat, large ground ——-- 7
——Wood - -a- 122.
Rattlefnake, veneration of the Indians for the 1^,
——--account of the      ' ■— ■— 262
•——--—fafcinates its prey--, 263
■ ■— does no injury unlefs attacked 262, 264.
---baftard, or ground - 270
Rhododendron, fpecies of            — — 334
Ribband fnake           —            — — 271
Rice, culture of           —            — — it
Rice bird            —            — — 294
River, remarkably clear              — 222
Robinia, fpecies of - —— 333
Rocky point - - ibb
Ruins, Indian -                                 ■ 37, 53
--of a French or Spanifh fort, ■-.     " <j2
S
Sage, tall blue .- .- ^JO
M m Saint
Saint John's, voyage to - 68
■-• Juan, Little, river         — —i 222
-Simon, account of the illand of            — 56
Salt, fondnefsof horfes for          —                _ 3^4.
Sarracenia flava             —             — xii
——-lacunofa               —            — 4^
Savanna, journey from, to Augufta —> 28
Sea cow             —             —— 230
Senfitive plant, new fpecies of         —            — 24
Shells, foffile, hill of           —            — 316
Silphium, fpecies of — — — 396 Siminoles, account of the       —            —         209,436
Sinica, town of            —            —            *-» 327
Sink, Great —•            —            — . 2or
Slavery, obfervations on             —              — 184
Slaves, on the treatment of —. 309
Similax pfeudo-china ufed as food -—         — 239
Snake, conflict of a, with a hawk          —         — 216
Snake bird — — — 130 Snakes, various kinds of — 193,217,262—72 Soils, obfervations on       —      23, 29, 168, 397, 420, 429
Spanifh fettlement, remains of       —         — 231
Squirrel, various fpecies of           —            — 279
Standard, Creek                 —              — 14 j
Stores plundered by the Indians - 61
Storm, thunder — 13, 139, 341, 384
--—advantages of a            — —■ 75
Sun fifh            —            —            — 151
T
Taenfa —*             — —       . — 403
Taenfapao river            — —          — 422
Talahafochte          —         — — 224
Tallow nut             —            — — nz
Tanafe, river           — —            — 337'
Tantalus piftus      —         — —         — 145
—----            albus               — — 146
--verficolor —) —         — ib.
---lo.ulator           — —         — 147
Teftudo plyphemus         — —             18, 180
--— nafo cylindraceo elongato — 175
--various fpecies of — 277
Thunder ftorm         — —               13, 34T
Tillandfia lingulata             — — 59
Tillandfla
Tillandfia ufnerides         — —> 85
Tortoife, gnat lanJ              — — 18,180
---foft fhelled - i75
--------various fpecies of         — — 277
Travelling, mode of      —         — — 438
Trout, American mode of catching .— 106
--------defcribed            — — 107
Turkey, American              — — I4»8i
U
Uche town — — — 386
Verbena, fpecies of —- .— 434 Vultur facra — — — 448 -—a urea            —           — — 150
Wampum fnake               — — 269
Wars of the Indians            — — 211,390
Water, hot mineral            — —                143
---pellucid, curious bafon of —            157, 163
■--fubterranean channels for 204, 223, 244, 343
■--great eruption of — ■— 236
Wax tree - ■, 403
Whatoga, town of               — — 348
White Plains             — ■—             — 429
Wolf, narrow efcape from a —            — 156
1--American             — —             197, 278
Wrightlborough                — — 35
X
Xanthoxylum clava Herculis — 8
y
Yucca gloriofa            — —            — 69
Z
Zamia pumila               — — 1— 160
Directions to the Binder,
Place the Map at the beginning of the work. — Plate i to face ....
---2 to follow -
---- 3 to face -
---4 -
kx&'SAS V0    v>> r^W.'^^