A -»

Brief Account

O F SOME

In divers Parts of

Viz.

HVNGARIA,
SERKI A,
BV LG A RIA,
MACEDONIA,
THESSALT,

AVSTRIA,

S TTRIA,

■ C A RIN T HI A,
CARNIOLA,
and FRIDLI.

Through a grčat part of

GERMANY,

AND

The Lovp-Countries.  Through Marca Trevtfana,  and
Lombardy  on both Iidcs the Po.

With fome Obfervations on the Golti, Silver, Copper, Quick-filver Mine s t
and the Baths  and Mineral Waters  in thofe Parts.

AS A L S O,

The Defcription of many Antiquities, Habits, Fortifications and Remarkable Places.

The Sccond Edition with many Additions.

By  EDWARD  B  RO  IV  N,  M.  D.

LONDON,

Printcd for Benj. Tool?,  at the Sign of the Shif  in St BauFs
Church-yard, MDCLXXXV.


A  Gr e at part of thefe Paper s vere Printed eight years
fince, and fome of them have feen the light no lefs
than tvpelue : But ftnce that the Copies have been
Jifpofed of, and the Impreffions fold, the  Bookfcllcr hath
thought fit to Reprint them together. In order to vphicb,
vrhilft he gave me the Opportunity to read them over, I
could not omit the makfng of d iver s Additions, and adjoyn-
ing another Journey through the delightful Country of
Lombard/ : Calling to mind the Magnificence of fome
Roman Antiquities, and the Remarkable Aflions of great
Men in thofe Ojiarters. Whereby I might give a fhort Ac¬
count of the ftrange Fate and various Revolutions of divers
of their ancient Cities. As to the natural Curiofities and
Obfervations in the firji parts, it v>ould be unneceffary to
make any IntroduFion, they having nov run through fo ma-
ny hands. I can only fay, that what you had in fcattered
parts before, are here compacled together in one intire Po¬
lurne , and hope for the farne kind Acceptance. The num-
ber of the Cut s are increafed, and the Figures of divers
Habits , Medals and Anticpiities, added: The Particular
Defcription of vhich, in this  Preface vould prevent the fa-
iisfabiion of confidering them in their proper places । to
vhich I Jhali refer you, vi/hing you the farne pleafure in
viemng them there, that I have had formerly in beholding
them in their due Situations, and in the Cont.mplation and
Defcription of them aftervpards.

£dward Brown.

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/ . • ■ /

T H E

General Defcription

O F

HUNGARV

r  O W far H7J N G A R IA  exceeds other Countrics of
Europe  in Mineš. Batbs and Mineral-vvaters; becaufe I
have elfewHere given a particular account of fuch Sub-
ječts, Ifhall at prefent omit their repetitions, and at
this time add fome other Confiderables; and in the
firft plače fay, That it aboundeth not only in thofe,

but is alfo the beft Rivered Country in Evrope: nor doth any Region
thereof aflord fo many noble and ufeful Streams.

On the Eaft fide it is wafhed with that Noble and Navigable River
Tibifcus,  or the Tciffe,  arifing in the Country of Maromorus,  at the foot
of the high Carpathian  Hills: which, having received the Marijcus  or
Marija,  and many Rivers into it, runneth into the Danube,  between
Varadine,  St. Peter  and Belgrade.  By this River comes down the
great <piantity of natural Stone-falt, brought from many Salt-mines
in Huiiaary  and Eranfylvania ; vvhereof a great part is brought up the
Danube  to ali Placesi as far as Presburg; Q  it being prohibited to be car-
ried any higher ) leaft it fhould hinder the fale of the Ausirian  Salt,
upon which the Emperor hath an Impoft, and no fmall quantity alfo
down the Danube,  and aftervvards up the River Morava  into Servia  and
neighbouring Countrics.

On the Weft fide runs the River Arabo  or Ral,  rifirig in Styria,  and
running into the Danube  by Javrinum  or Rab.  A confiderable River
receiving the Lauffnitz, Pinca, Guncz,  and other Rivers into it. - And
now l.itely more famous for the defeat of the Turks,  under Achmet  the
Grand Eifier ,  by the Imperial Forces, at St. Gothard,  nigh this River.
The difcourfe hereof was frefh, when I was at the City of Rab : and ma-
ny I found, who faw the Corps of Men and Horfes floating in that
Stream. .. i, 'J

Upon the Southern Parts are confiderable, the River Dravus  or Drau,
which arifing in the Territory of Saltzlurpland,  a part of old Noricam,
runs a long courfe through Carinthia  and Hun^ary,  and falls inttf
the Danube  neir Er d d,  or old Teutobur^jum*  after it hath pafled from
its head about three hundred Miles. About its entrance into Hunpa*
ry,  it receiveth into it the long River Mur  ; and, far above this, nearer
its original I found it a confiderable Stream : having pafled the farne
by a good Bridg as htgh as Eillach  or Nillaco,  and between Cla<penfort
and Mount LeuPeS  in Carinthia,  I pafled the farne alfo by two long
Wooden Bridges, and an Ifland in the middle between them.

B

The General Defcription  of  Hungaiy.

On the farne fide is alfo the noble River Savus,  or the Sau ;  vvhich a-
rifing in Carinthia,  entreththe Danube  at Belgrade ;  continuing a long
courie of about three hundred Miles, and fwelling by the acceflion of
many good Rivers. Being at Carnodunum  or Crainburg^  an handfom
Town, not far diftant from the Head, it appeared a confiderable Streafa;
which is afterwards fo enlarged, as to have remarkable Iflands in it, as
that of Metubaris,  to the Weft of old Sirmium,  and that of Segeffica  or
Sijfieck,  by Zagrabia,  containing of old a ftrong and famous Town ;
unto which the old Romam  brought their Commodities Swa\Aquileia^
and fo by Land to Labach  cr Nauportus ; from thcnce unto Šege klica,
and forwards, for the fupply of thofe Provinces and their Garrifonš
and Forces in them. Between thefe two noble Currents of the Dravus
and the Savus,  lyeth a fair and long Inter-amnian  Country, wherein
Solyman  the Magnificent chofe a fafe retreat, until he came to Bel
grade : when, with about four hundred thoufand Men, which he
brought to take Pienna,  he dared not to meet the Forces of Charles,  the
Fifth, thcnencamped before that City.

Upon the North part of Hangary,  are the Rivers arifing from the
Carpathian  Mountains, which divide Poland  and Hungary; more  parti-
cularly the River Gran,  which runs into the Danube,  over againft
Strigonium  or G ran-,  and alfo the River Waag  or Pcgus,  vvhich comes
in aboVe C omar a : which Stuckius,  an ocular Witnefs, conceiveth to e-
qual the Po  in Italy.  I am fure, at Freifiat,  above hfty Miles, before
it difchargeth into the Danube,  it is a very large Stream, and hath
a long Bridge over it; part whereof was broken down by the Icc, the
farne year when I was there. And far above it, nearer the head, there
is alfo a confiderable Bridge at Z/r»/rZw,afair Town, which gives the
name unto that Country, and much reforted unto for its hot Baths and
Mineral Waters; having no lefs than thirty two plentiful Springs.

The great Danubius  or Fhonau  continues its Stream quite tjirough
Hungary  ; and no one Province hath a larger fliare of it; for account-
ing from the City of TJ Ime  in Swabenland  or Suevia,  where it begin -
neth to be Navigable, it continues a long courfe, paffing by Ingolfiad v
Ratisbone, Straubing, Pafiau, Lintz  and Pienna  unto Preslurg ; from
whence through Hungary  it makes a courfe of above three hundred
Miles, before it pafles by Belgrade : To omit the long Stream thereof
in its farther progrefs, when having wafhed the Shoars (fiServia, Bul-
garia, Wallachla  and Moldavia,  with many mouths it entreth the Eu-
xine  or Bla k-Sea : having in this long paflage drank in above fixty con¬
fiderable Rivers; and in fober account performed a courfe of above
fifteen hundred Miles. Whereby it may tolerably admit the double
name of Danubius  and Isier,  properly applyed unto diftinčt Parts
thereof.

So that, altho I have feen the Danubius, .  for about feven hundred
Miles; yet cannot teli, whether I may certainly fay, that I have feen a-
ny part of Ikier.  For Stralo  aferibes that name unto it, below its
Catarad,  or great fall, which happenes about Axiopolis,  in Mcefia  in-
ferior, or Bulgaria.  But Appianus,  and later Account, define it to be¬
gin at its concurrence with the Savus  at Belgrade :  and if fo, yet we
had but a ihort fight of the Ifier;  vvhich travelling more up into Ser-
via,  we were fain to leave at Hijjargich.  And of this Ifier  or lovver
part of the River, many things are fpoken and related by the Ancients,
which are not fo plainly verifiable of Danubius.

Befides

Tbe General Defcripižon of  Hungarv.

Befides thefe large Rivers above named, there are fone others, taken
notice ofulfo by F/žyy; and efteemed Huvii non ignobiles.  The Sar-
vizza  or Orpanas,  arifmg near VejpriAum,  and pafling by Alba Regalis,
runs into the Da rde ,  wiiich I pafled over at Jeni,  or nova Palan-
ka.  The River Walpo  or Tulpanus,  arifmg above the Town of Walpo,
vvhich was taken by Sobpian,  in his march to Alba Regalis,  or Stull-
Weiffenlwg  We pafled over it by IValcovan,  and the River Bojneth  or
Bacun.hus,  which runs into the Savus,  not far from oid Strmi-
um

Tis this Country excels in Rivers, fo has it alfo many confidera-
b!e and long Bridges. There is a long Bridge of Boats over the Danube,
betvveen Strigonium  and Barchan,  vvhich is the firft Bridge on this Ri-
Ver, vvhich we meet with from the great Wooden Bridge at Tienna,
vvhich takes above ttvo thoufand Trees to plancher it. Upon the Ihoar
of St. Andrevds Ifland  by Virouichitz, I  tcok notice of a ruine of Stoncs,
Where the Turks  told us, there had been formerly a Stone Bridge: but
the Tu'ki  in thefe Parts, think it beft to make Bridges of Boats; vvhich
they lo handfomly contrive, as to open a paflage fbr Boats and Veflels
of burthen to pafs; fo that he that beholds thofe in thefe Parts, will
not vvonder at the Bridges of Boats at Rouen,  and Grenoble  in France.
Between Buda  and Pest,  there is a Bridge of Boats over the Danube,
vvhcre it runs ali in one Stream, of above half a Mile long, the beft
1 have l^n of this kind; and if ^igifmund  had lived to eflečt his De-
ftgn, ofmaking a notable Stone Bridge in this Plače, there had proba-
bly been no bridge in Eur.pe  to compare vvith it. There is alfo a
Bridge at Calocza,  formerly an Archbijbop\  Sea, and a hahdfome and
vvell-contrived Bridge, by Walcovar  over the River Walpo.  But that
of Effeck,  or Murfa  of old, is fcarce to te parallefd vvith anv other;
built partly over the Dravus,  and partly over the Fot, vvhich are often
overflovved. The Bridge is five Miles at leaft in length, having Tovvers
built upon it at the diftance of every quarter of a Mile : It ishand-
lomly railed oneach fide, and fupportcd by great Trees, ereded under
it; nirieor ten in a rank, unto each Arch. That part of the Bridge,
vvhich was built over the Dr^vus,  vvas burnt down by Count Nicholas
Berin  in the Ute lurki/b  Wars betvveen Leopoldus  the Firft, Emperor
of Germany,  and Sultan Mahomet  the Fourth : and is now fupplyed
by a Bridge pf Boats, fbmevvhat b low the former ; vvhich I pafled o-
ver in September,  1669. The Turks  did not rebuild it in the farne
plače, becaufe the Supporters belovv the Water, vvhen the fireciafed,
were fo flrongly faftned and hard, that it would have coft thcm tco
great a labour to get thern up. By this Bridge the Turkifh  Forces pafš
into Hungary.  and at this plače the unfortunate King Ludovicus
thought to have ftopped the Tur ki/h  Army vvhich marched under So-
lyman.  And lately Count Serini  undertook a long March to burn the
famg, to prevent Supplies from coming to the ITfier,  who was vvith his
Army. in other pyts of Hungarp.

Atjd as there are Rili many Bridges over the upper Danube,  fo have
there alfo been in Old time upon the loiver, or IJlrian  part thereof.
Darius  King of Perjia  made a Bridge of Boats over that Mouth of the
PJter  called cJUum Sacrum. Nicephorus  relates, that Conjlantine  built
a Stone Bridge over it. But the moft remarkable and admirable Bridke
was that, built by the Emperor Adrian,  and defcribed by Dion  the Hi-
ftorian : vvhereof there are ftill lome Ruines, not far from Severin  a-

‘ J  2. b ou g

4  The  General  Defcription  of  Hungary.

bout twenty Hungarian  Miles from Belgrade.  This Bridge confifted
of twenty Piles of fquare Stone of an hundrcd foot high, befides the
Foundation : of fixty foot in breadth, and the diftance between each of
them one hundred and feventy foot; and conjovned by Arches, upori
the which was this Infcription,

PRO VI DENTIA AUG.

VERE PONTIFICIS VIRTUS ROMANA
QU ID NON DOMAT? SUB JUGUM ECCE

RAPITUR ET DANUBIUS.

And, as a Memorial hereof, many Roman  Coins wcre ftamped, and
fome in Silver, not yet rare among us, with this Infcription, D A N U-
VI US.

No River aflbrdes fo large and peopled Iflands. Between Vicegrad
and f^acia,  there is a fair and large Ifland, called St. Andreas  Ifland.
Another a little below Buda,  againft the Weft fide of which ftands
Adom,  extending forty Miles; and exceeds that of the Ifle of Man,
containing many Villages in it; upon part whereof the Turkifb  For-
ces encamped, when they came to raife the Chridian  Siege at Buda,
and was the great omiflion and error of the Chriftians, that they for-
tified not in that Ifland. Another againft Mohatch : another^about the
entrance of the Dravus : and a new one hard by Belgrade,  made by
the fettling of the Silt  or Oufe  brought down by the Savtu  and the
D antike ; where  thirty five years ago there was no face of an Ifland,
but is now full of Trees; how this may advantage or difadvantage
Belgrade,  future times may fliew. But the Turks  are fo fecure and
fearlefs of any Forces, that may ever hurt them in thefe Parts, that
they have no conflderation of fuch things. And allowing the River
Leyta  to be the boundary of Ausiria,  the Ifland of Schut,  or Inf ul a Cž-
tuorum,  will prove moft confiderable of any; containing many good
Towns, as Comora, Samarien  ; befides very many Villages. And paf-
fing through it, I found it well peopled and ordered againft Incurfi-
ons; vvherein there have been divers, formerly made by Tur kr, Tar-
tar s,  and rebellious Ferces.

No River whatfoever, fo far from its difcharge into the Sea, af-
fordes more Naval Veflels of ftrength and fufficiency forFight ; nor  hath
any aflorded the like fignal Engagements and Encounters, at this di-
ftance from the Sea. The Emperor hath fome Veflels of War handfom-
ly built, like Gallies at Tienna, Preshurg  and Comora  ; and an Arfenal
for provifion of many upon occafion. The Turk  at Strigonium, Buda,
Belgrade,  and other places below.

At the Siege of Belgrade, Mabomet  the great brought two hundred
Ships and Gallies, well appointed, up the Stream. And the Hungarians
THrkiP>msiory.  f e nt fo many down the Stream, from Buda,  that after a iharp encoun-
ter, they took twenty of the Turkifo  Veflels, and forced the reft on
Shoar near the Čamp ; fo that, to prevent falling into the Enemies
hand, Mahomet  was fain to caufe them to be fet on fire. The Cbrifti-
ans  had a great Fleet at the Siege of Buda,  when ali mifcarried under
T «rl<ifh  Q, unt  Regenfdorff.  For the Hiftory delivers, that the Cbriftian  Fleet
confifted of four and twenty Galliots, about fouffcore fmall Pinnaces,
and little lefsthan an hundred Ships of Burthen, and other great Boats.

By

The General Defcription of  Hungarp. 5

By the help of fuch Naval Veflels fflblfgandus Pio d de r  did a good
piece of Service, when Solyman  befieged Pienna;  for he came out of'
Preslurg  with armed Veflels, and funk the Veflels fent from Buda.
vvith the great Ordnance, to batter the Walls of Pienna.

And as this Country aboundeth in Rivers, fo  is it not without'f»me
notable Lakes, as the Lake Bal at on  or Platfee,GY Polca a  of old, extend-
ing a great length betvveen Pefprinium  and the Dravus,  with fome
flrong Forts upon it This Lake put a ftop unto the cruelty of Soly-
mans  Souldiers, vvho deflroyed ali from Buda  unto the Lake
Balaton.  And fince it lyeth on the Eaft of the River Leyta,  we
may alfo reckon in the Newfidler Sen,  a pleafant Lake, feven
German  Miles long, and three broad: fo called from Neivjidel,
a fmall Town, ofone ftreet and fome backward Houfes, vvith afmall
fquare Caftle upon an Hill by it, from whence I had a good profpečt o-
ver ali the Lake. In the Commotions of Botfcay,  fourteen Villages a-
bout this Lake were burnt by Turks, Tartars  and rebellious Heyducks.
The Hungarians  call it Terteu  and Pliny, Peifo.  It is in the middle
way betvveen Pienna  and Salaria,  the birth-place of Saint Martin.
The long extended plain of Pampus,  in Paraguay  in America,  exceeds
ali others, as being two thoufand Miles in length. And I have
heard that famous Navigator, Captain Narborough,  fay, who not long
flnce, 'was Commander of the Siveepflakes,  and made a Voyage in her
into the South-Sea,  that there is ali low Land from the River of Plate,
unto the middle of the Straights of Magellan. Mofcovia  and Poland have
long Plains, but many of them Woody, and obfcured by Trees; but
none more open and clear Plains than this Country. The greateft
Plains I have obferved in England,  are thofe of Salisbury, Lincoln  and
New-Market.  But thefe are but long Walks, compared vvith thofe of
Hangary\  and are exceeded by the Plains of Auftria,  from Pienna  unto
Mount Simmeren,  unto the Borders of Styria.  And though the Z>pper-
Hungary  be hilly and plentiful in Wood ; yet are there large Plains
below. I travelled from Pienna  to Belgrade  four hundred Miles,
upon continued and not interrupted Plains; vvhichoften appeared like
the Sea, without any vifible Eminencies, only a fhort and plain Wood,
by Bacna,  and Shillerg,  beyond Dotis;  and if we reckon the full of
this Plain, it will prove much longer, extending from Mount Kalenlerg
or Cetius,  two German  Miles Weft-ward of Pienna,  and fo beyond Bel-
grade,  ftill along the North fide of the D amil e,  unto the Borders of
VPalachia ;  which will make a larger extent, than the famous long
Walk from Agra  to Labor  in India.  This plainnefs of the Country,
aflbrds an handfome way of Travelling in open Chariots, carrying
one or two Men with a Charioter, dravvn by two or three, fometimes
four Horfes a Breaft; and room enough to lye down. In this man-
ner I travelled from Buda  to Belgrade,  over fair large Plains; and ma¬
nj^ Miles upon Green-Svvarthc and unvvorn Wayes; efpecially in the
County of Sibmium  or Schremnia,  as they now call it.

No Country hath fo large a fliare of Capital Cities  upon the Da-
nule ; for whcreas from thecourfe thereof, from TJ Ime  unto Belgrade,
there are reckoned Ten’very confiderable ones,there are no lelš than four
thereof, that is Preslurg, Strigonium, Buda  and Belgrade,  accounted
unto PIungary  ; ,and Buda,  vvith the addition of Peft,  on the otherfide
the Water, feems to be the largeft of them ali; and I believe the lar-
geft alfo of any upon that Stream.

And

The  General  Defcrrption cf  Hungarv.



And as this Country excels in Rivers,  fo is it very abundant in
Fifres..  The libifrus  or Teiffe,  isefteemed the mofl Fifhy River in
Euripe,  if not in the World; infomuch, that they have a common fay-
ing, That it ccnfijls of tveo parts o£Watcr y  and one of Fifh.  And the
River Bodrack  which runs into the Tibifcus,  not far from Tokay,  is fo re-
plcniflied with Fijh, that in the Summer when the River is low,the Peo-
ple fay the Water fmells of Fifli. And this is no fmali River, but as 1 had
the account from aCommander who purpofely madeit for
me when he pafled it, was thirty Fathoms broad, and % S
eight and an half deep, but being of this Figure it could \ /
not be well Filhed ,with Nets. Which exceeding fertility,
if any will afcribe unto Saline Tindures, both of its own Stream, and
otliers acceflionary into it,which lickthe many natural Salt-Mines un-
der ground, and fo may carry with them, or at leaft promote fome
Principles of foecundity, may admit of confideration. The Danube
aboundeth in many good Fifas;  as Trouts, Percbes,  large and delici-
ous Cirpes,  exceeding any I have feen ; and befides many otliers, a
Fifh called Coppen,  a kind of Capito;  a Bifcurne,  or kind of Lamprey ,
a Griindef  or fpotted kind of Cobites,  with fix Beards, two /hort, and
four longer; a large 1 ilh much exceeding a Pike,  called Scherden, a
Silurus GefnerD.  and above ali, there is at fome Seafons grčat flore of
Rfufones,  called by them Haufons : vvhereof fome are twenty foot long •
efteemed a very good difli, and fomevhat like Sturgeon.  There are’
fet Fdhing-places and Store-houfes upon the fide of the Danube ; vvhere-
of the highcft is above Como a,  upon Schut-Ifland,  but the greateft
Fifliing is about Kilia  in Walachia‘,  vvhere they falt them, and fend
them into other Parts: they come out of the Rutine  Sea.

As the Rivers are full of Fifli, fo are they covered with Foivl,  in the
Winter ; Swans  I obferved none in the Danube,  but many other Fow Is *
and fome Pelicans,  not far from Belprade.

As the VVaters are alfofruitful in Fifli. fo the Land aboundeth in o-
ther Frovifions ; and very eminently in the two fupporters of Life,
Bread  and Wine : their Bread is hardly exceeded by any in Europe;
vvorked up and kneaded with long continued labour; and fo made
light, wholfome, and well tafled; and at fo cheap a rate, that for two j
pencc as much is aflorded there, as twelve pence with us in England.
And indeed in ali the Turkijb Dominions,  where I travelled, I met vvith
fo good and well tafled Bread, that with Wine, it was a Feaft; and
vvith Water a fuflicient Repaft. Grapes  $hey have very delicious and
large ; thole at Firouichitz  by Facia,  areof eminent Note; Wines  alfo
of a generous and noble fort; the Wines*pf Tokay  are highly eftecm-
cd ; the Sžrw/^;Wines are very rich and pleafant, in the South part
of Hungary,  in which Province the Emperor Probus  is faid to have
planted Vines, about Mount Almus  or Arpataro.  In many other pla-
ces the Wines are very noble; and fome brought unto Fienna,  wh< re
there are above thirty forts of Wines to be fold, brought from feveral
Parts.

And as the ground is not unfruitful in its own Nature ?  fo they ar e
not vvithout the pračtife of Good-I~Iusbandry,  both in their Arable and
P fture Grounds: cfpecially in Z>pper-IRunpary y  and Parts not fubje-
čted to the Turks.  I being there, about the end of Felruary,  faw evc-
ry night ali the Country about us on fire, occafioned, by burning the
Stubble and Grafs and Herbs; vvhich aftcrvvards, atofe with plenty
again. Rape

The General Defcription of  Hungarr. 7

Sape etiam Jlerileis incendere prof uit agros,
At^ue levem ftipulam crepitantibus ur er e flammis.

To fet their Fields on fire, and Stubble burn
With crackling Flames, does to their profit tura.

They ufe not Barnes or Stackes of Corn; but have many deep and
large Caves under Ground, wherein they lay it up fafe, both from Rob-
bers and fudden incurfion of Enemies. At Clefch  near Toopolchan y
when the Purks  and Tartars  made their Inroads in the laft Wars,
the People retired, and hid themfelvesin fuch Cavities; but fomeZarh,
fpeaking told them that theCoaft was clear, and the Ene-

my gone; and fo tempting them out of their Holes, they were unfor-
tunately deceived into Captivity, and carried away into remote Coun-
treys. never to be heard of again.

There is alfogreat plcnty of Deer, Hares,  ali forts of Poultrey, Par-
tridges  and Pheafants  ; great flore of Sheep,  which in divers places,
have long Spiral Horns, and very long curled Wooll. And Oxen  irt
great numbers, vvhereof tis thought they fend an hundred thoufand
yearly into Italy,Germany,  and other Parts; and it is commonly faid,
they have enough to ferve a great part of Europe.  They are ofa kind
of Mopfe-colour ;  and the Eaflern Ctmpany  at Vienna  hath the privilegc
to bnng them, to furnifli that City. There are alfo Buffelos  where"
of they make no fmall advantage, in ploughing of their Lands, efpe-
cially in fome fliff Grounds, where they muft elfe ufe five Yoaks of
Vxen  to a Plough; and one in my company told me that he had been
fain to make ufe of fix Buffelo  s to draw a light Calleche,  or Chariot
through fome Grounds. Not far from Botefech,  there are Horfes  alfo
in very great number, fome large, many but fmall, yet fvvift. I faw a
thoufand of them belonging to the Peafants at Sone, Sene  or Senia, a
Village upon the Danube,  in the Contribution Country, nor far from
Comara.

As they exceed in many things, fo they are peculiar in fome others ;
particularly in their Language,  which is proper to themfelves, and dif-
ferent from any other. I went to a Church at Bitcbka,  where the
Minifter Prayed and Preached; and though there were a very good
Linguift with me, who fpake Schlavonian, German, Turkijb, FuFat
Greek  and Italian ■  yet could he make nothing of it, or find’ affinity
in it, with any other Language he knew. A Specimen hereof is fet
down by Megiferus,  of the Lords Prayer,  in that Language. Mi At-
tyanck Ky vagy az meniegle, m gh Szentel Tejfeck az te newed. &€. In
the like manner we were confounded by the Language of Alhania  on
the Northvvard part of Epirus,  and Wefl of Macedonia.  We made ufe
of fome of that Countrey in paffing the Mountains, w'ho were able to
fpeak fome Schla^onian : But as for Albanefe,  or their own Language
vvherein they were delighted to fing Day and Night, as they travelled
with us,our beft Linguifts,both Turks ^Chriftians^n^ikood  nothing

In fome parts of Hungarj,  many fpeak Schlavonian,  at Freiflat,  which
the Hangar ia ns  Ga Il Colgotz.  I obferved, that at the Church, the Ser-
mon vas m Schlavonian;  but at the Francifcans  Church, in Hunvarian
This incommunication in Speeeh, makes them to leara otherLangua-

ges

8 ’ The  General Defcription of  Hungarv.

ges, and efpecially the Latin,  which very great numbersfpeak,efpeci-
aily the Gentry and Souldiers,and  I fcarce met with any elfewhere, who
fpake it more ready,than the Noble Graff Sacchyfinvernonr  of Dotis,and
his Lieutenant Elvedy.  I have alfo met with Coachmen, VVatermen,
and mean Perfons, who could make themfelves underftood thereby.

The Latin-Tongue  is very ferviceable in Hungaria  and Lranfylvania:
butbelow Belgrade  oflittle help unto a Traveller,where that far extend«
ing Language.rhe Scklavonian, prevails. And indeed,with the help of two
Languages, German  and Schlavonian,  a Man may make a fhift to Tra-
vel tirom Hamburg  to the Boders of Tartary,  and to Conftantinople.
f  nd. I have heard that the Schlatvonian  alone is underftood from Mock-
elberg  in Germany  to the Cafpian  Sea. And before we come to Belgrade,
the Schlavonian  cnters again; which is alfo fpoken in Servia, Bulgaria
Komama,  and a great partof Macedonia"  and in fo many other Coun-
trys, that with this Language a Man may make a ihift to be under¬
ftood from the Adriatick-Shore  of Dalmatia,  unto the FartarianOcean.
For we read in Purchas,  that when the Hollanders  returned from Nova
Aembla ;  the Inhabitants not very far off could fay, Dobre,  and Nich
Dobre ;  that is, Good,  and not Good;  which are exprefllons of approv-
ing  or difapprovng,  in the Schlavonian  ftanguage.

■ The Turki/b  Power fo much prevailing or threatning in thefe Parts •
it is in vain, to expedt any great Vniverfuy  beyond l tenna.  Nor do I
find that there hath been any very confiderable ones in this Cduntrey;
andthough they have had many Bijhops  and learned Men; yet they
have had their Kducation many of them out of Hungary As  had alfo
of old St. Jerom  and St. Martin.  And the prefent Hungarians,  v/hich
addičt themfelves unto Learning, efpecially thofe of Quality, do com-
monly Study at Dienna, Prague  or Brefiaw;  a fmall Univerfity. or pub*
lick Study there is at prefent at Schemnitz.

But the Hungarians  may juftly boaft of early helps unto learning,
and a very noble Library  ereded at Buda,  by their King Matthias Cor-
vinu.s,  Son of the famous Hunniades,  about two hundred years ago;
confifting of fome thoufands of Books, efpeciall) Greek  and Latine  Ma-
nufcripts not to be' met with or Purchafed elfcwhere; part vvhereof
was difperfed into the Turkijh Domimons,  when S«>/y»?<7«furpri2eJ that
City; and a choice part thereof procured aftervvards, for the Imperial
Library  at D.ienna,  when Cufpinianus  was Keeper thereof, divers where-
of are marked with the Armes of Corvinus, a Croiv bearing a Gold King
in his Beak ;  vvhich with many fucceeding additions, made by Busle-
quius, Wotfgargus, Lazius, Fugger,  and cthers; together with the
choiceft Manufcripts , brought from the Ambrafian Library  near
hfpruch,  by the Learned Petrus Lambecius,  the prefent Library
Keeper, make up the fourfcore thoufand Volumes, now contained in
the F.mperors Libran  at VPnna,  by the efpecial Favour of which wor-
thy Perfon, I had the honour, not only to fee many of the choiceft
and moft fpccious thereof, together with many Noble Rarities in that
Plačebut to have any ufeful Book unto my privatc Lodgings. And
at my coming away, he gave me a Catalogue  of fome hundreds of Al-
chymtcal Manufcripts,  which are in that Library, which I prefented to
the Royal Society,  from him ; with leave to have any of them brought
into England,  or to be Tranfcribed at Vienna,  if they pleafed. And if
the three moft admirable Brafs Statuds  of Hercules, Apollo  and Diana,
vzhich were placed at the entrance of Corvinus  his Palače in Buda,
had

The General Vefcription of  Hungar/.

had not been carried away by Solpman,  and caft into Ordnance  at Con-
ftantinople;  it is not improbable, they had been by this time at Fienna.
About four hundred Books, the Reliques and refufe of the Library at
Budapvvce.  lately remaining there; where it was no eafie matter to have
a fight of them; yet ib carelefly kept by the Turks,  that Worms, Mice
and Rats were like to have the Spoil thereof. But the Fire  at Buda
1669,  hath now confumed them ali.

And as their Language is peculiar, fo is the Opinion of their Crown •
of which they have the greateft efteem of any other Nation. This
they commonly believe to have been brought by an Angel from Hea-
ven unto St. Stephen,  their King: and have fohigh an eflimation there¬
of, that they think, the Right and Fatc of the Kingdom goeth with
the pofleflion thereof. Which makes them very wary in the Cuflody
of it, and in ali Adverfities to fecure it. And the Turk  hath been al-
ways induftrious to obtain it. It was formerly kept in the Caftle of
Vicegrad;  but at prefent in that of Preslurg.

And this opinion is probably founded upon the Tradition or Story, out c£
how they came unto it; which is thus delivered. King Stephen  inten- CrcmerM -
ding to fettle the Chriftian Government in his Kingdom, appointed two
Arch-Bi(hops Sees ; Strigonium,  which was the plače of his Nativity,
and Colocza;  and fent 4/^^Bilhop of Colocza,  to the Pope,to confirm
the farne, together with his Kingdom, and to fend him a Crovvn, and
other Royal Ornaments. At the farne time it fell out, that Mifca,  King
of Polonia,  fent about the farne Errant: and a Crown vvas providing
for him. But Pope Benediki  the Eight, in the mean time was vvarned
by an Angelical Apparition,  to fend the Cro\f n unto King Stephen;
which accordingly he did, which probably begot that great Venerati-
on and high Opinion, they have ever fince had of it.

The Crown it felf is alfo fingular in its Faihion and Figure; for it is
a low Crown, with a Crofs upon it, with four Leaves or Turnings up
about it; one whereof is as large as the other three, at leaft as two
thereof. It is no eafie Favour to obtain a view of this Crown at Pres-
lurg,  but I faw a Model of it in the Treafure of the prefent Emperor
Leopoldus;  vvhich was a Crown of Gold, adorned with many precious
Stones, exačtly made after the faihion of the Hungarian  Crown, and
perhaps richer than the exemplar.

Though the Hungarians  want not Ingenuity, Induftry, and fufficient
parts for Learning, and liberal Arts; yet have they been more addičted
unto Martial affairs,  than unto deep Learning : Even the Bifhops  and
Clergy-men  proving ftout Soldiers; and no lefs than fix Bifhops  were
ilain, with their King Ludovicus,  in that fatal Battel of Mohatch.

Some report, and others believe, that the famous Poet, Ovid  dicd,
and was buried in Hungarj  at Salaria,  feated at the confluence of the
Rivers Guntz  and Regnitz  before they run into the Ral.  Where it is
reported, that he having been banilhed unto Tomos,  near the Euxine
Sea,  was at laft recalled, and in his return tovvards Italy  died at Salaria.
Where kis faid his Tomb was found with this Epitaph ,  made by
himfelf:

/lic fitus efi Vates, quetn Divi  Crefaris Ir a
Augufti patrih, cedere jujjit humo.

Stepe mifer voluit patriis occumlere terris,
Sed frujlra, hunc illi fot a de dere locum.

C Before

!  o The  General  Defcriptibn  of  Hungary.

Beibrc I came into Hunyary,  I obferved no lhadow or ihcvv of the
old Pyrrhical Saltation,  or VVarlike way of Dancing, which the Hey-
ducks  pračtice in this Country. They dance with nakpd Swords in
their hands, advancing, brandilhing and clafhing the lame ; turning,
winding,elevating, and deprefling their bodies with ftrong and ačlive
motions; finging vvithal unto their meafures, after the manner of the
Greeks.

The migbty A&s of Attila  , King of this Country , together with
the numerous Forces he brought out of thefe and the neighbouring
parts, are very remarkable 5 whereby he over-ran a confiderable part
of Germany,  and a great part of Italy :  Sacked and Burnt Aquileia ;
and fought that memorable Battel with /Etiiu,  the Roman  General, in
Campis Catalonicis,  near Tkoloufe  ; wherein ’tis laid were ten Kings  pre-
fent, and about two hundred thoufand flain: and , which is alfo ob-
fervable, the Generals on both fides were of thefe Parts; for Attila
■Jmumdes.  was a Hame  , and /Etius  a Mrzfian ,  or Servian,  of the neighbour
Country. -And in fucceeding Ages, how far and widely the Kings of
Hu.nga.ry  enlarged their Dominions, befidesmany Hiftorical Accounts,
is teftified at their Coronation , by ten Banners  carried by Great Per-
Monfieur de  f ons ; wherein were reprefented ten Provinces  of that Kingdom ; that
F««;«. j s , Dalmatia, Croatia, Schlavonia, Galifia, Rajcia, Servia

Bulgaria, Bofnia, zv^Ludomiria.

This Country has given the longeft ftop unto the Turkijb  Conguefts,
and farther intrufton into the Weftern Parts of Earope.  For moft,
which they have already obtained, has becn upon the advantage of the
Hungarian  Divifions,- and their own fubtilty and falfe pračtifes; and
Solyman,  by fuch falfe and low dealings, furprized the Capital City of
Buda.  And although the Turk  has now obtained the beft part of the
Country 5  yet almoft a third part remains out of his Power, and in
obedience to the Emperor, as King of Hungaria:  as almoft ali Vpper
Hungary,  from Preskurg  unto Tokay,  and A at m ar.  And there are yet
out of their hands the three notableft Bulwarks of Chriflendom ; Ra& t
Komar a, zn&Leopoldftadt ; ali which I had the advantage tofee. This
laft has been erečbed fince the lofsof Neivheufell;  and made much after
the farne manner ; confifting of Six regular Bafiions revefiues.  It is
feated on the Weft fide of the River Waag,  over againft Freiftadt, not
far from the plače where the Tartan  pafled over in the laft VVar, and
deftroyed a great part of the Country, and carried away many Cap-
tives from thofe Parts, and out of Mor avla.  This Fortification was be¬
gun in the year i66y, and was well advanced , but not finilhed when
I was there, 1669. Count Souches  the younger was then Governor
thereof; from whom I received great Civility in that plače; and a
Guard ofFoot Soldiers,to convoy me through the Contribution Golta¬
ta, towards Schemnitz, Cremnitz,  and the other Mine-Towns.

Many Roman Emperor$  have honoured thefe Quarters with their Pre-
fence, Birth, Dcath, or great A&ions. For (to cmit Trajan, Caracalla,
G ali e mu, Conftanthu,  and many more) the Emperors Aurelianus,Prol?us,
Gratianus, Maximianm,  had their Nativities at Sirmium  ; z and Clauditu
Gothiciu  died in it, or near it. ^ovianus,  and Valentinianus  were Born
in Pannonia. Ingenuus,  Governor of Pamonia,  was faluted Emperor by
the Moefian  Legions. Vet rani o  likewife~, in the farne Country. And at
Sirmium  was held a General Council> when Photiniu  was Bilhop of that
plače. The

The  General  Defiripiibn  of  Hungarr.  i  i

The Roman  Armies being much in this Country, no vvonder it is,
that fo many Coins  of Copper, Golci.,  and Silv er  are to be found in it:
Whereofl obtained no finali number at Petronell,  or Oid Carnuntum,
vvhieh was a Part of Pannonia.  And at Sene ,  or Senia  , fituated near
the Danube,  I met vvith very many. They are alfo to be found atOld
Buda,wc. Sicamlria ; at Old Sirmium  in the Country,now called Schrem^
nia^  at Murfa,  or EJJeck,  and many other Parts. An Armenian  Mer¬
chant, in whofe Houfe I lodged at Belgrade,  undertook to provide me
vvith Roman  Coins againft my return: vvhieh he might well do about
thofe Parts, as at Sirmium, Samandria,  and other places. And not far
from thence Lyjimachus,  Kingof Macedon  and Thrace ,  is conceived to
have kept his abode, at a Cžftle or Palače near Deva-,  where that un-
parallefd mafsofGo/z/ Medals  was found, as is particularly deliveredby
Monfieur Fumee,  in his Account of the Wars of Hwgary. ,

Near the Town of Deva  or Devas,  vvas found great flore of Treafure,
by the Peafants of the Country, under an Ancient Caflle or Palače, ali
rui ed and decayed. The Rain continuinga longtime, and theWa-
ter running with a forcible current, therewas difcovered an infinite
company of Golden Medals:  upononefide of vvhieh vvas Coined the
Image of LyCimachus,  on the other fide a Vičtory; every one vveighing
two or three Crovvns. The Storm and rage of water being paft, and
the Sun fhining on thefe, made a marvellous glittering; vvhieh per-
ceived by the Peafants , they remained raviflied vvith joy; and taking
them up, they alfo found a Golden Serpent:  vvhieh aftervvards Gene¬
ral Cajlalde  fent unto Ferdinand,  vvith a part of thefe Ancient Medals.
This being an ancient Cuftom vvith thofe vvho buried their Treafure,
to plače Serpents  there, in token of a Faithful kceper. After the Pea¬
fants had taken, no man knevv what, others took from thence more
than T wenty thoufand Ducat s.  And the report vvas, that they might
have taken an hundred Thoufand. For that had fometimes been the
abode of King Lyfimachus.  Whereof Ferdinand  had a Thoufand, and
Cajlalde  three Hundred. Which Coin remained in this plače from
Lyjimachus’s  time. Among other notable Antiquities, there vverealfo
found two Medals  of Gold,  the one of Ninu s,  the other of Semiramis,
vvhieh vvere fent to the Emperor Charles  the Fifth.  And there
vvas not any JMan in ali that Province, of vvhat Authority or repu-
tation foever, vvho had not fome of thefe Medals fo infinite vvas
found this Sum to be.

In the Old Roman  Tovvns, through vvhieh I pafied, thePeople,
upon notice given, vvould bring vvhat Coins they had, called by
them Heathen-money.  In the Countries of Servia  and 'Bojna,  the
Armenians  and Jeivs  make Collečlions , and fend them to Raguji ;
from vvhence the greateft part is carried into Italj.  I mufi not omit
one Copper  Coin of the Emperor Julius Philippus,  vvhieh I found
common in thofe Parts, and very rare in others; il hath on the
Obverfe, the Head of Philippus,  vvith this Infcription, IMF. C. M.
JV L. P EIILIPPVS AVG.  on the Reverfe, a ffloman  betvveen
a Lyo«and a Buli,  vvith the Infcription, P.M.S. COL. VIM- ANMJI-
vvhieh may be Provincice Moejlce Superioris Colonia Fiminačium Annona
Septimo data.

Viminacium  was a Roman  Colony in Mae/ia  Superiour, riovv Ser«
via  5 and conceived to be Singidunum,  or Senderin  upon the Danube

C ž ait -

i  2  The  General  Defcriftion cf  Hungary.

at the entrance of the River Mojchius  or Morava ; by the Lyon  and
the Buli,  might be declared the goodnefs  of the Soil,  fit for Agricul-
ture, and the JMlour  and Couragc  of thePeople; and by thofe fierce
Animals fitting fo quietly together, that, by the Prudence cf Phi-
l/ppus, Agriculture  vventon, and none found oppofition from the £$<&,
or force of others.

AnnonaSeptimo Jata-,  The Seventh time of thediftribution of Coni
under Pbilippus.  The Legio decima fexta frumentaria ,  which was
quartercd m that plače, having the Charge of the condutting  thcreof;
as the Learned Priftan  has conječlured.

This is the Habit of an Ilungarian " f  which is found to be fo
fit and convenient for ali fort of Exercife, efpecially on Horfe-
back, and in War, that it is made ufe of alfo by the Croatians,
Schtavonians, and other Nations, and by the Turks  themfelves
who live near the Frontiers ; although otherwife they feldom
change their own Habits. The Hungaricvs  delight moft in Co-
lours, wearing Blew, Ye!low> Green, and Purple Cloth; and it is
rare

The General Defcription of  Hungary.


rare to fee any one in Black; the Priefts them.felves being habited in
long Purple Garments. The Hun^aria-as  ufually carry in their hands,
a Club, or Iron Mače, of which they have two forts, a Cat-
ft>an y  and a Delta,  or Balta  as they pronounce it. The Catjhan
hath a globular Iron hcad with furrovvs in it, and fpaces cut away
to render it more light, and eafie to be handled ; this is exprefled
in the Figure of the Hungarian  Habit: the DtIta  hath a head fome«
what like a Hammer, but broader, and at the end makes tke fbapc
of thatLetter. A

i4

JOURNEY

FROM

Vienna in Auftria,

T O

Lariffa in Theffalia.

H A VIN G paffed the Winter in the Imperial City cf
VIEVNA^  I took a Journey into FIunpary  , to view
the Copper, Silver,  and Gold  Mineš in thofe Parts«
And not long after, although I had already had a fair
fight of Italy\  made a Journey unto VENICE,  pafling,
through Auftria y Styria, Garinthia, Carniola^  and Friulif
and fbon after my return to Vienna,  I met with an opportunity, vvhich
carried me unto the Ottoman  Court, which then, and a long time be-
fore, refided at the famous Old City of LARISSA  in Theflaly.  You
are not to expečt the Names of ali Places, which I pafled ; yet divers
you will find mentioned, which are not to be found in Mapps; except
you have fome more exačt, than any I have met with-

Between Vienna.  and Presburg , abovc the confluence of the River
Marek  with the D amile,  Lcould not but take notice of the Town of
Petronell,  and Hapmlurg  Hill and Caflle. Petronell  is conceived to have
been Old Carnuntum, a ftrong Hold of the Pannonians , in vain at-
t mpted by the Romans^n  Hundred and feventy years before the Incar-
nation ; but was afterwards fubdued, in the time of Auzu/hts,  made a
Roman  Colony ; and the Station of the Legio decima quarta gernina,
and the Claffis IJirica ; and in procefs of time fo enlarged, that it be-
came the chief City of Pannonia  Superior, and comprehended that
trači on the South Bank of the D amil e,  wherein now fland Haymlurg,
Dutch Altcnlurg,  and St. Petronell.

I had been formerly at Petronell , to inform my felf in the noble
Ruines and Antiquities thercof; where I met with variety of Me dal s,
Infcriptions,  remainders of a noble AquttduH ,  and the Remains of a
goodly Fabrick, which I thought might be the ruine of a Tcmple
ol Januš,  but it is conceived to have been a Triumphal Arch, erečted
in Memory of a great Vi£tory over the Pannonians ,  and Dalmatians,
by Tilerius,  in the Ninth year of our Lord. My noble Friend, Petrm
Lambecitis,  hath fet fbrth the Figure of one ftdethereof (in theSecond
part

The General Defcription of  Hungary. 15

part of his Defcription of the Imperial Libraryf)  and of thc back part
I took a Draught my felf. This, and other Carnuntine  Antiquities
may be fecn in the farne Author; and more may be expcded,
when that Worthy Perfon ihall pleafe to Publifh his Carnuntum re-
divivnm.

In this plače, the Emperor Antoninus Philofophus  , in ordcr to his
Wars with the Marcomanni f  now Moravians,  refided the fpace of Threc
years, and died at Vindobona,  now Pisma :  and herc Severus  was
elefted Emperor by the German  Legions. But this Noble and Ancient
City was ruined, in after-times, by Attila  the Hume,  in his Incur-
fions intothefe Parts: Yet thereareftill remaining many marks of
its Ancient Greatnefs. And though Grafs now grows where Old
Camuntum  ftood; yct by an obferving Eye, the Foundations of their
Houfes, and their Streets are ftill difcoverable: and fuch great quan-
tities of Roman  Coins have been of a long time, and are flih found
there, that the Boors  are comrnonly well furniftied with them ; of
whom I purchafcd a grčat number: and Mr. Donellan,  an Irifh  Gen-
tleman, who then travclled with me, and was walking in my Com-

P«ny,

i 6 The General Defcription of  Hungary.

pany, vieu ing thefe Old Remains of fortner Greatnefs, by chance ftrook
vvith his foot a Silver  Coin out of the Earth.

Presburg, Pofonium, Pijcnium,  and by fomc thought to be Flexum,
is a pleafant City feated on the North fide of the Danube,  ten German
miies Eaftvvard from Fienna ,  the clikfCity of Hungaria  in the Impe-
perial Dominions  thereof; fince thelofs of Buda,  the plače of Conven-
tion for the EJlates  ; and fince the lofs of Strigonium ,  the Metropoli¬
tan City.  The City  is pleafant • the Cafi le  is ftately , beautiful, and
.vvell fituated on the top of a Hill, and built of White Stone; herein is
kept the fo highly efteemed Crown of Hungary,  commonly believed
to have been brought by an Angel  from Heaven, unto St. Stephen  their
King 5  and is of a different figure from other Crovvns, The Garden
of the Arck-Bijbop  is very fair; the W'alks,  the Grottes , the figure of
Jeronima,  the Labirynth, Fi/h-ponds,  and Fountains  are Noble. In the
Dome,  or Cathedral Church , lieththe Body of St. Johanne; Eleemofpna-
rius,  Bilhop of Alexandria.  The Jefuits  have a part of the farne Church,
and a noble Apothecaries  Shop, lull of Rarities. The Lutherans  have
alfo a fair Church  here.

Rab,  or Jazrinum,  a City  feated at theccnfluence of the Rivers Rak
Rabnitz,  and the Danube :  and a ftrong Frontier Bulwark againft the
Turk.  It hath tvvo Bridges,  one over a double Ditch, leading tovvards
Auftria ; and another tovvards Alba Regali;,  or Stulhveiffenlurg.  It
hath feven large Bajlions,  and four Cavalliers,  or high Mounts vvhich
over-look them. The firft is the Caftle Bajlion,  upon vvhich ftands
the Caftle or Palače of the Governour. The fecond is the Water Ba¬
ftion,  lying tovvards the Danttbe.  The third is the Baftion of the holy
Hill,  under vvhich when the Turk;  fprang a Mine, a Horfeman vvas
blovvn offfrom the top of it into the Danube,  vvithout any hurt to him-
' felf or his Horfe. The fourth is the middle Baftion, tovvards the Land
Eaftvvard. The fifth is the nevv Baftion. The fixth is the Imperial, or
Emprefs Baftion. And the feventh is the Hungarian  Baftion, lyingnext
the River Rab,  vvhere the Turkijh  Governor vvas killed when the Tovvn
was furprifed in the Night by the Chriftians. TheCountry is ali plain
about, and there is nothing vvhich feems to command it, but a imall
Hill at fome diftance, vvhich is undermined, and may be blovvn up
upon any occafion ; beyond vvhich there is alfo a Tovver or Spy in the
open Ficlds, to difcover the approach of the Enemy. It vvas Befieged
by Sinan Bafla,  in the Reign of Sultan Amurah  the Third; vvhere he
loft many Men, and at one atfault Tvvelve thoufand ; but at laft vvas
Surrendred, by the Treachery of Count Hardeck ,  the Governor ;
vvhich cofthim his Head at Fienna;  vvhere, upon a Scaffold covered’
vvith black Velvet, kneeling by the fide of a Table covered vvith a
black Velvet Carpet, he laid his Hand upon the Table, and theExecu-
tioners at the farne inftant ftruck off both his Head and his Hand. In
a fevv years after, it was recovered, by a notable furprife, ačted by
Count Sivartzenburg  , and Count P alfi,  vvith a great ilaughter of the
Turks.  I favv a part of the Gate, vvhich vvas then broken by a Petard,
the farne being ftill kept for a Memorial, in a part of the Cathedral
Church. While this plače vvas in the Turks  Pofleftion, they made a
Dungeon for ChriftianPrifoners, vvherein there is no light, but what
enters by a Grate upon the ground in the Market-plače. But this is
now feldom empty of Turks,begging  the Charity of Pallers-by»and felling
neat Whips vvhich they make in this their fad reftraint. He

A Jourrieff from  Vicnna to  Lariffa. 17

He that would take a view of vvarlike Engines and Inftruments, is
not like to hat e better fatisfaiftion any where, than at Ral  and K oma¬
ra,  where he may take notice of one, called a morning Star, ufed by
the Sentinels, and at an aflault, defence ofa breach, or entrance into a
Town ; of earthen Pots to throtv amongft the Enemies, filled with
fticking and burning materials. There he may alfo fee a Lehn Bradi r,
orplank fet with hooks , to be placed on the out-fide of the vvorks,
covercd lightly with earth ; whereby thofe, who ftortn are wounded,
and ihtangled. 21 werf Kugel, of inftrument filled with wild fire, and
combuftible matter, tobe throvvn by the hand, it fticketh faft and
burneth. A Spannifche Ritter  or Cheval de Frife,  to be laid in the
way, to keep out the Horfe; divers forts of Chain-lhot, and the
like.

General Montecuculi  was the Governour of Raal y  whofe Pafs I had
the ad.vantage of in the former vear, to trave! by thefe parts unto the
Mine-Towns. The Emperour being vvearied with Chiaufes, and ordi-
nary Envoys, vvhich fd often came to Pienna  from the Vifier of Buda,
and expečted prefents at their return ; hath takcn order, that, vvithout
efpecial Licence, they fhall come no further than Raal*  but there re-
ceive their difpatches.

Komora, Gomora, Crumenum  or Comaronlum,  a large and firong Town
at the Eaft-end of the Ifland of Schitt-,  looking over the Danule  and
Waag,  ftrongly fbrtified, and well mannd. Colonel Hoffkircher  was
then Governour: the ftrongeft plače is the Torteife  Fort; lo called,front
fome refemblance it hath to a Tortoife  This Town, after the taking of
Raal,  was befieged by Sinan Baffa,  with fixty Ships, and a great num-
ber of Turks  and Tartars ;  but in vain, and to the great flaughter of the
Tartars.  Although the Baffa  omitted nothing tovvards the gaining it,
but employed treachery as well as force, and under colour ofa Parley,
fent five Turks  to the Governour,Baron 5r«?w,who had then received a
great vvound upon his right Knee, to try ifhe could by any meansbe
wrought upon to deliver up the City And the Governour ga ve them
the hearing till they had declared their whole treachery ; but then pre-
fently čommanded four of their Heads to be ftruck ofT,  and to be fet
upon long Pikes upon one of the Bulwarks, for the Baffa  to look upon;
and fent the Fifth back to the Baffa  to teli him that although he found
dne in Ral  to ferve his turn hevvas much deceived, if in him he thought
to find Count Hardeck,  and to aflure him that he vvould never betray
a City committed to his charge, but rather wilhed to dye the Empe-
rors true and faithful Servant imbrewed in the Blood of the Turks.

In the inward Caftle I obferved three old Tombs, which had been
formerly brought thither from Sene  or Senia,  a plače of Antiquity, not
farr off Some in the Caftle obferving me to write out their Infcrip-
tions, were very inquifitive, and obliged me to leave a copy of them in
the Caftle; and if, upori after-con fideration, I Ihould find them tobe
of importance, required a promife of me, to fend them an account
thereof: The Infcriptions were thefe.

D

On

x 8 A Journeji from  Vienna to  Larifla.

On one of them

MEMORIAE J VLIA E EMERIT A E QV A E
VIKITAN 9S&VALERIAMASCLENIA
FILI AEPIISSIME
And on the Cover

D. M.

The Infcription upon another was this,

MVALVALERIANI’LEGIIIIFLVIXITAN

XLIIETMVALVLPIOEQPVBL’FILVIXIT
ANVIIISIMCONDITISVLPIAPARATIANE
MARITOETVLPIAVALERIAFILIA
H.REDESTS.

D. M.

And on the top or Cover, this following,
ITAAMTPI6TETX6IMGTATIATPOC.

The third Tomb was of the farne Figure, but without any Infcrip¬
tion. I could not omit to fct down thefe, becaufe they are not to be
met with in that great Volume of Infcriptions of Gruter.

Gomora  hath been of late more ftrongly fortified, and a greater com-
pafs of ground is taken in, by a line drawn from the Waa%  to the Da-
nube,  and fortified with four new Baftion«.

Of fome other places, near unto thefe already named, and whereof
I took notice the year before, I Ihall make but fliort mention ; as parti-
cularly of NenheivfeH,  by the Hun^arians  called Vywar,  feated by the
River Neutra,  not far from Nitrza,  a ftrong plače, and Bilhops See, taken
by Count de Součke s  in the laft wars. Newhau/l  is a ftrong Hold, re-
gularly fortified with fix large Baftions, which makes it lie in the form
of a Star, it was furrendred after fix florms unto the grand Fifi er ;
who prefently befieged it, after that Count Forchatz,  the Governour,
had raflily lofl: a great part of his men at the Battel of Barchan •  where
th-bonesof the Slain lie yet in the Field. The Turkifb Baffa  lives in
the Palače, vvhich belonged to the Arch-biihop of tresburg,  and has
converted the Church into a Mofihea.  The Baffa  growing teo fami-
liar with the neighbour Governour of Komar a,  wasjealoufly lookcd on
by the Grand Sezgnior,  who fent one to take of his head, and put ano¬
ther into this Government. This plače commands contribution from
a good part of the Country betvveen the River Waag  and the Kent ra,
and betvveen the Neutra  and the River Gran : and in places, where we
lodged in thofe parts, the Mafter of the houfe told us, he was obliged to
give notice unto the Turks,  who, and how many wcre in his houfe;
vvhereof we were not unvvilling, refolving to be gone, before the ac-
count thcreof could come unto them. If the Fifier  had n©t fpent time
about

The General Defcription of  Hungaty. i

about the fiege of Neivheivfell,  but marched into Aufiria,  vvhen the
Emperour was yet unprovided, the Auxiliary forces farr off,  and Tienna,
and ali the Country about in great fear, he might have probably lelt
fad cflečts in thofc parts; butattempting fome time after, to break into
'AufiriaGj  Saint Godard,  vvhen the Irnperial forces were in readinefs,
and the grčat bodics of Auxiliaries of Germani  and French  came up, he
was repulfed with'great lofs of his befl Soldiers, and readily claptupa
peacc, which kept thefe parts in quiet for many years.

Sene, S one  or Senia,  a V il la ge near the D anale,  and remar kable plače
for varietv of Antiquities, where, by the help of the Bjro  or Judge  of
the Town, 1 met with divers Coins, and fome of Gold, fome Intaghds,
and asthey called it, a Heatben  or R man  Key. Whereof I preiented
fome unto Petrus Lamhecias,  who Ihevved them unto the Emperor.
This plače, bcing in the contribution Country to the Turki,  hath been
little enquired into ; and therefore the Antiquities thereof were the
more vvelcome. Amongft ali the Infcriptions of Gruter,  1 find but one
or two of Senia.  The People fay, this plače was formerlv called Apolio-
nia,  but vvithout any good ground.

Paffing from Raal  to Doris,  St. Martinslerg  oflers it felf to view; an
handfome Town, and ftrong Hold, upon the top of a high Hill, over-
looking ali the Country. This is ftill in the Chnflians hands, though it
hath fofmerly been taken by the Tarks,  once in Amurath  the thirds
time.

Dotis, Tata,  or Theodata,  about twelve Englifb  miles from Gomora,
where there is a Caftle with a Ditch about it, and alfo fomeNatural
Baths near it. It hath been often taken and retaken: Graj} Tački,  a
Noble Hungarian,  was then Governor ,, vvhofe fingular CivilitiesI
muft always acknovvledge ; and indeed in thefe parts,I was at beft con-
tent in the company ofSouldiers, for they commanded ali, and were
generous and free hearted Perfons, and could commonly fpeak cither
'Latine, High-Dutcb,  or Italian  my company was the more accepta- 5
ble to them, becaufe I had feen many parts of Europe  before,which they
would much enquire after.

But to return into the road  again ; we parted from Comora,  being
tovved by a Saick  of twenty four oars. The Hungar.ians  rowing up¬
on one fide, and the Germans  on the other, they faluted the Fortrefst
with two fmall Guns, which they carried at the head of the Saick,  and
fo we pafled by Sene, Nefmil, Rodivan,  and came to Motch,  the. exačt
plače of the Frontiers. Here we expeded a Turkifo  Convoy ; which
Corning betimes in the morning, we made ready for them ; their Offi-
cers w.errt firft on flioar, then our Deyda  or Tepuod  with the Interpre-
ter, and chiefeft of the company, both partieš walking flowly, and at
meeting gave hands to one another, then we delivered our Boat unto
the Turks.  which they faftned to their Saick , and fent one i' to our Boat
to fteer it: and rurning about, faluted the Chriftians with one Gun,
and then with leighteen Oars rowcd down the Danule,  we carrying
the Eagle  in our Fiag,  they the Doulle Sword, Star,  and Halj-
Moon.

The Turkijb Saick  convoyed us to Strijsnium ot G ran,  and fet our
Boat on ihoar in the Tovvn, and fo left us ; the Governor alfo took no
notice of us, either in hopes ofa prefent, or fome private intereft; bat
an Aga,  who came with four troops of Horfe from Newbewfell,  being

D 2. coihe

20 The General Defcription of  Hungary.

cotfie iflto the Caftle, asket! the Governar ( as we vvere informcd by a
Turk,  that cartie unto us) what he meatied to have fo little čare of his
head, to deal tfith us after this manner ? who vvere not fcnt to him,
or to a BaJJa,  or a Pifier,  but to the Sultan,  and no doubt had a Pre-
fent for him: whereupon we were footi difpatched.

This City of Gran, Strigonium  or OJlrogon,  is feated on the South-
fide of the Danube  near the Confluence with the River Gran,  divided
into the upper and lovver, and both walled ; the lowcr Wall  doth well
commatid the Danube.  St. Thomas Hill,\MX&  by the Town,is alfo vvalled,
becaufe it commandeth the Town : There are in this plače Natural
Baths of a moderate heat. This hath been the Metropolitan City of
Hungary,  where St. Stepten,  the firft Chriftian King of Hungary,
was born; and King Stephen  the third buried.

Scarce any plače has fuflered more ftrong and notable Sieges; be-
fieged in Vairt by John,  King of Hungary,  taken by Solyman,  recover-
ed by Cotmt Mansfelt  for Matthias,  the ArchDuke ; befieged again in
vain, but taken in the time of Sultan Achmet,  by the mutinous bafe-
nefs of the Chriftian Defendants, who Ihutting up Count Dampier,  the
Governor, delivered the plače unto Aly-Beg  the Turkijb  General; but
after many years it was taken again by the Chriftians under the Duke
of Lorraine,  in the year i68y Over againft Strigonium  lieth Barchan ;
betvveen thefe two places there is a Bridgeof Boats.

' From Strigonium  we pafled to Picegrade  or Pizzegrade:  The upper
Caftle of this plače is feated upon a very high Rock, where theCrovvn
of Hungary  hath been formerly kept: the lower Caftle hath been fair;
there is alfo a handfome Fabrick of fquare Stones, and Arches, the ruines
vvhercofdo ftill remain: this plače was retaken from the Turks  by the
Forccs of the Arch-Duke Matthias,  in the time of Mahomet  the Third,
but betrayed, and delivered up by the Treachery of the Heyducks  in
the Reign of Sultan Achmet. Charles  King of Naples,  and fworn King
of Hungary,  VVas ivounded on the head by Forchatz ; and being carried
iftto the Caftle, under pretence of laying a Plafter on his head, was
ftrangled. This plače yielded to the Duke of Lorraine,  1684.

O ver againft Pizzegrade  lieth 2%tm,where there is a largeChurch;
and the plače having voluntarily fubmitted unto the Turks,  the Chri-
ftiaiis paying a ftnall Tribute, lived under no great oppreflion. Be-
10w this Towft, the Danube  divides, and makes a fair large Ifland,
Called St. Andrews  Ifland, ftill rowing down, by which we pafled by
Piriruichitz,  a notcd phce for pleafant Vineyards andgood Grapes, and
art Old ruineof Stone,upon the IhoarofSt. Andreas  Ifle,where the Turks
told us, there wasformerlya Stone Bridge, we came to Pacia,  infor-
iftčr tiftiesa Bifhop See,which hath now two Mojches&nti  one Chriftian
Church vvithout the Wall. This plače was feized upon, facked and
burni by the Turks,  15'41. but taken by the Emperors Forces, under
theCommand of the Dukeof Lorraine,  in the Year 1684. after he
had overthrovvn the Turks  in Battel near the ToWn, but was quitted
again at the latter end of the Ant umu,  there being a ridge of Hills near
it which over-look the Town, and render it not eafie to be dcfended.

Here changed our Convoy again, and pafled unto Buda,  the
Capital City, and Royal Seat of the Kings of ddungaria,  and the refi-
dence of a Turkijb Pijier,  who hath divers BaJJas  under him. It is a
large Gity, and of a pfealant fituation; divided into the upper and
lovver

The General Defcription of  Hurtgary. 21

lower Town, whercin are fome ruines, and reliques of Magnificent
Strudtures, rai$’d by the Hungarian  Kings, efpecially Matthias Corvi-
nus,  whofe Palače the Eifier  poflefled. But much abating of its anci-
ent glory. There are alfo fome fair Mofches, Caravanfaras,  and very
Magnificent Baths.  There is alfo a high Hill called St. GerarcTs  Mount,
which hath a Fort on the top, and ovcr-looks the Town and Coun-
try.

The natural Baths of Buda  are efteemed the nobleft of Europe,  not
only in refpečt of the large and hot Springs, but the Magnificence of
their Buildings. For the Turk s  bathe very much, and though little cu-
rious in moft of their private houfes, yet are they very fumptuous in
their publick Buildings, as their Chanes<x Caravanfaras, Mofches,
Bridges,  and Baths  declare.

There are eight Baths, whereof I had opportunity to take notice
during my ftay at Buda,  three tovvard the Eaft  and South-Eafi  part of
the City, in the way leading tovvards Conftantinople,  and five towards
the en J of the Town, in the way tovvards old Offen,  and Stri-

gonium.

The firft is a large open Bath at the foot of a high rocky Hill, cal¬
led Purga tory, whereof the People have fome odd and fcrupulous Ap-
prehenfions.

The fecond is covered with a Cupola,  and ftands nigh the farne Hill,
but more into the Town, and near a plače where they ufe Tanning.

The third is called the Bath  of the green Pillars, though at prefent
they be of a red colour, it ftands over againft a Caravanfara.  The
Water is hot but tolerable tvithout the Addition of cold water, it is
impregnated vvith a petrefiing Juyce, which difcovers it felf on the fides
of the Bath,  upon the Spouts, and other places, and makesa grey
Stone: The Exhalation from the Bath  reverberated by the Cupola  by
the Irons extended from one Column to another, and by the Capital«
of the Pillars forms long Stones like IJicles,  which hang to ali thefe
places.

The Water is let out at night, when the Women have done bathing,
who often ftay late. The Bath  is round, tet about with large Pillars
fupporting a Cupola,  which hath openings to let out the Steam, and
yet the whole Room continues to be a hot Stove.

The Baths  of the Weft  end of the Town are firft, Tačldli,  or the
Bath  of the Table, a fmall Bath  covercd: the Water white, and of a
Sulphureous Imeli; they drink of this as well as bathe in it; what they
drink they receivefrom a Spout, bringing the Watef into this plače.
I delivered a five-Sols piece to a Turk,  who was tathing in it, to gild for
me, which he did in half a Minute, by rubbingit between his fingers,
while the hot Water fell from the Spout upon it.

The fecond is Barut Degrimene,  or the Bath of the Powder-Mill, it
nfes in an open Pond near the High-way, and mixes with the freffi
Springs, which makes the Pond of a whitilh colour in one part, and
clear in the other ;■ as alfo cold and hot in feveral parts. This convey-
cd crofs the High-way into a Powder Mili, becomes ufefal in making
of Gun-powder.

The third is Cuztfculfge,  the little Bath, or the Bath' of the SaiHt,
for vvhich name the Turks  give a fuperftitious reaibn : It is kept by
Turki/h  Monks. The Bath where the Springs arife, is Ib hot as fcarce

tO

22 The General Defcription ofHungMy.

to be endured ; but being let out into another bathing plače at fome
diftance, it becomes tolerable and fit for ufe. This Water hath neither.
colour, fmell,nor tafte different from common VVater, and depofeth no.
fediment, only the fides of the Bath are green, and have a fungous fub-
ftance ali over.

The fourth is Caplikfi  very noble Bath, but part of the Buiklings was
confumedthis year, 1669. by a great Fire that happened in Buda,  but
is fince repaired by the Eurks.  The VVater is very hot, not vvithout a
petrefying Juyce in it. The Building about is eight fquare, vvith a
noble Bath in the middle, vvith a Circle of a Trench of VVater about
it for the bettcr Ornament, to bathe the feet in ; on every fide it
hath a N/c^,wherein is a Fountain; in the middle of the Anti-Chamber,
vvhere they leave their Cloths, there is al.o a fair Stone Bafon and a
Fountain.

The fifth is the Bath of Z>elibey,  which hath a flrong fulphureous
fraell; and a petrefying Juyce in it,and is fo hot,that to make it tolerable
it rcquires the addition ofcold VVater; this is the nobleft of ali. The
Anti-Chamber is ve y large,the Bath-Room capacious, and high-Arch-
ed, adorned vvith five C upala s ; one a very fair one over the grčat
round Bath in the middle; and one lefler over each of the four corners,
vvhere are either Baths, or Bath-ftoves for private ufe: in thefe the’
Turks  take ofFthe hair of their Bodies by a Bfilotbrum  mixt with Soap
it being not their Cuflom to have any hair, except their Beards.
Tvvelve Pillars fupport the great Cupola,  between eight vvhereof are
Fountains of hot VVater, and betvveen the othersare places to fit down,
vvhere the Barbers and Bath-men attend ; and each of thefe places has
two Cifterns of Free-ftone,  in to which are let in hot Bath vvater, and al¬
fo cold VVater, to be mixed and tempered as every one pleafeth.

Men bathe in the Morning, and VVomen in the Afternoon. When
any man intends to bathe, having entred the firft Rooms, he finds
there divers Servants attending, who furnifh him with a Cloth and
Apron. Then he puts off his Cloths and having put on the Apron,
he enters the fecond Room, vvherein is the great Bath, and fits on the
fide of the Bath, or betvveen the Pillars near a Fountain, where the
Barber firongly rubs him vvith his hand opened, ffretching out his
Armes, and lifting them up; after vvhich the Pai ty bathes. Then if
he be a Subječt of the grand Seigniors,  or it bc the Cuftom of his
Country, he hath his head fhaved, and if a young man,his beard, ex-
cept the upper Lip ; next the Barber rubs his Breail,Back, Armes, and
Legs, vvith an hair Cloth, while he either fitteth, or liethvrithhis face
dovvnvvard, then wafhes his head vvith Soap,  and after throvvscold VVa¬
ter upon him, ali over his Body, and then he vvalks in the fteam of
the Bath for a time.

The Germans  call this City Offen,  and fome vvill have it founded
by Buda,  the Brother of Attila,  the Famous King of the Hunnes-.
And to fpeak the truth among ali the numerous Countries, and Places
Conquered by that VVarlike Nation, they could not choofe out indeed
a nobler Seat to build a City in, where, befides the advantage of their
natural Baths and Stoves, this being placed upon the Banks of the
greateft River in Europe-,  where it runs in one entire Stream, and the
City rifing up by degrees to the top of Hills,iflording from moli Streets
of the Town, a Prolpečt of twenty Miles or more, on the other fide of
the

A r journeyfrom  Vienna to  Lariffa.

the Danube,  as far as ones eye can rcach, with the view of Peki,  and
the long Bridge of Boats, and the beautiful fruitful Country about it,
renders it moft exquifitely pleafant and delightful, and vrasthe Royal
Seat of the Hungarian  Kings and Queens, till that Solyman  the Mag-
nificent, entered it with his Sons Selimus  and Bajazet,  on the Thir-
teenth of Auguft,  in the Year One Thoufand Fivp.Hundred Forty One,
and made a Decree that Buda  ihould be from that day kept by a Gar-
rifbn of Turks,  and the Kingdom converted into a Province of the Tur¬
ki fipsr\\b\r e.,  and the Queen and heryoung Son, be fent into the Coun-
try of Lip pa,  be} ond the River Tibifius,  at a little diftance from Buda
or Offen  : there is another Plače called old Offen^  conceived to be Si-
cambria  of old, where the Sicambrian  Souldiers quartered 5  in the
time of the Romans:  and fome Antiquities and Infcriptions have been
taken notice of in that plače.

Over againft Buda,  upon the Eafiern-Jboar  of Danulius , ftands
the City Pefi,  being Quadrangular and feated upon a Plain : and by
reafon of its Wall, and the Tovvers of the Mnfihes,  makes a handfom
lhow from Buda.  It gives the name unto the County or Comi-
tatus Pefihienfis: Hungaria  being divided into Counties, like England',
between this plače and Buda,  the handfom Bridge of Boats, is above
half a Mile long.

The habit of the Turkifh  Women feemed new and ftrange to me :
Breeches almoft to their feet, a kind of Smock over them, and then
a long Gown with their Head-drefs, which fetches about, covering
their face, except their eyes, and makes them look like Penitents :
but it was not unpleafant unto me, as taking away the occafion of
Pride and Folly : though otherwifeit can have no good grace in a llran-
ger s fancy.

During our Stay at Buda,  we vvent into a Turkifh  Convent, where
the Prior or Superior called julpapa,  or Father of theRo/e, withfome
of his Brethren brought us into a large Room like a Chappel, and en-
tertained us with Melons and Fruit: at parting, we gratified them
with fome pieces of Silver, which were kindly accepted. The Julpapa
had his Girdle or Ceinture embofled before with a whitifh Stone, big-
ger than the palm of my hand, vvhich vzsGalatiites  or Milk-fione;
vrhereof they have a great opinion, becaufe in their belief, Mahomet
turned a vvhole River in Arabia  into this kind of Stone.

We lodged at an old Rafcians  heufe, where vre were well accom-
modatcd; having from it a fair Profpečt over the Danube,  the long
Bridge  and Peki,  and a good part of the Country. Divers Turks  and
fomeChiaufes  reforted unto us, where they were treated to their con-
tent. The Mafter of the Houfe was thought to hold fecret corre-
fpondence with a Franafan  Friar of Pefi,  and to give intelligence of
Occurrences unto the Miniftersof State at Gomora,Rab,Vienna-,  he
prevailed with me to pena Letter in Latin  and Italian-  vvherein I
was not unvviiling to gratifie him, becaufe it contained nothing, be-*
fides an account of fome Prifoners, and the encroachment of the Ar-
menian  Merchants upon the Trade.

As we vere riding in the City, divers of the common Turks  murmu-
red, that vre ihould. ride, whcre they went on foot. But I vvaspleafed
to fee many Turks  to falote Seiginor Gabriel,  the Emperors Courrier, in
our Corapany, and to take his hand, and put it to their foreheads,
but

24 A  Journey from  Vienna to  Larifla.

but was much more delighted with the courteous entertainment of Mor-
tizan Ephendifi.  perfon of note, and who had been an Envoy extraordi-
nary at ViennaPte  received us in an handfom large Room,and treated us
with great kindnefs ; faying, that he defired our company, not to any
leaft, but to aTreat of Affečtion and Refpečt; fuch as might declare,
that we had converfed like friends, and eat and drunk together ; he
called for a ftool, that I might fit down, it being then uneafie to me
to fit crofs-legged , and asked me, whether I would learn the Turkijb
Language, or whether I would go to the Port, and how I liked Buda,
and among other queftions, asked, what was the King of Poland'3
name ? and when I told him, Michael fflifnoivitski;  his reply was
f mewhat ftrange unto‘ me; faying, Michael,  thats a good name,
thafs the name of the greateft Saint in Heaven, except Mary;  and fo
having entertained us,he difmifled us with good vviihes. At our return
to this plače, after two days ftay, the Governor fent us with four and
twentyHorfe Souldiers into Chriftendom again, thefe guarded us with
great čare, a day and a night, till they faw us fafe at Dot is.

But now leaving Buda,  we travelled by Land Eaftward; and
pafling bythe ruinesof the King of Hungarys  Mint-houfe, by Ham
'Zaiti Palanha,  and by Erzin,  we came to Adom,  in Turkih, Tzan
Kurteran,  or anima literata,  fo named by Scljman  the Magnificent;
becaufe, in his hafty retreat from Vienna,  he firft made a quiet ftop
at this plače, and there could think himfelf fecure from any purfuit of
the Imperial Forces. This plače was afterwards taken by Graffpalfi,
from thence we came to Pentole  or Pentolen Palanka.  This or Adom
is conceivcd to be the dd P otentianayN\xe.re.  the Hunnes,  invading thofe
parts, fought a bloody Battel with the Romans,  under the condučt of
Macrinus  and Tetricus,  but were overthrovvn.

From hence to Fodtvar,  in fight of Colocza,  feated on the other
fide of the Darule,  in the road to Temefivar,  formerly an Arch-Bilhops
See ; vvhereof Tomoreus  was Bifliop, whofe raflinefs conferred much
unto the lofs of Hungary,  at the Battel of Mohatz.  Then by T<?vor
Paxi  unto Tolna,  formerly Altinum  or Altinium,  wherc the Hunnes
being recruited, fought a fecond Battel, obtained the Vidtory, and
expulfed the Romans,  though not without the lofs of forty thoufand
of their own men. This hath been a very great plače, but burnt by
the Chriftians. The Hungarians  and Rajcians,  who inhabit here, li-
ving in no good agreement.

Thence to Jeni Palanka,vA\<zse  we pafled the River Sarvizza,£oxmer-
ly TJ rp anus,  a handfom River, arifing near Vejprinium,  and pafling
Ali a Rega lis,  or St ulhveiffenlurg,  the ancient plače of Sepulture of the
Hungarian  Kings, which makes a triangle with Buda  and Strigonium,
and running into the Danule  below. From thence by Setzwar  to Bo-
tojeck,  where we travelled by night, and had a Horfe-guard of Spahies,
till we came to Setz,  a large Town; where I obferved the ruines of an
old Caftle, and a round Palefado upon the Hill.

Here is alfo a new Chan  or Carauanfara  ; then to Mohatz.  Before
we came to this plače, we pafled by a fmall Bridge over the Brook Cu-
raje  which, upon great rains, over-flows the Neighbour parts ;
near which Ludcvicus  the unfortunate King of Hungary  periihed, be¬
ing ftifled in a muddy plače, where his Horfe plunged, after the Battel
fought with the Forces of Solyman,  on the other fide of the Town.

We

A  Jowmey  from  Vientla  to  LariH& 25

We went to fee the plače, wherefb noble a Prince loft hislife, and an
inconfiderate Battel loft the Crowh of Hungarj.  This Battel was
fought the apth day of Oftoler,  in the Year 1526. Cotrifcas,  who
was near the King s Perfon when he was drowned, related the manner
of it to the Hungarians,  and fhewed them the plače where he fell in,
from whence the King’s Body was aftervvards taken up entire, and
carried to Alba Regalis,  vvhere with great Solemriity it was buried
among the Sepulčhres of the other Kings of Hungary,  his Prede-
ceflbrs.

Hereab uts we met with a Caravan of two or three hundred Per-
fons, fome going to a plače of Devotion, and having Janizaries  with
them, to guard them: others intending, by permiflion, to feat them-
felves in other parts of Hnngary-  And in divers places I met with
numerous droves of Oxen, driven towards Vienna,  upon the account
of the Eaflern Company of that City, who furnifli that plače and
Country about,and are permitted to pafs free by the Grand Seignior.TMis
_day we left Quinqy.e Ecclefice,  and Zigeth  on the right hand, thislaft
is_ a flrong plače feated by the fide of a Fenn, in which there is an
Ifland, and beyond that a Caflle. Count S er eni  defended this Plače
againft the Tv.rks,  with unparalleled Bravery, and when he had loft
4heTown, retired into the Ifland, and laft of ali into the Caflle, and
when there were but four and twenty of them left alive,they ali Sallied

< out together,choofing rather to die every man,than to give Solyman  the
Magnificent, who befieged them, any pretence to the Town, by their
Surrender; and Soljman  himfelf died likevvife in the Čamp, and hath
a Sword hanging by his Tomb in Conjlantinople,  as a peculiar honour
to him, in n.gard that he did not only fpend a great part of his life,
but alfo died in War.

From hence by Barinovaar Darda  or Draža  unto Efeck  or OJJecfc,
conceived to be old Marja,  or not far from it. It is feated low, and
the Streets are planked with Trees. Upon one fide of the Gate
is part of a Roman  Infcription. M. /E LIAN, &c. on the other fide, a
Maids head in a Stone; there is alfo a Dyal, which is not ordinary,
brought from Serimvar;  and the greateft piece of Ordnance, which
I faw in ali thofe parts, not lying upon a Carriage, but upon Bodies of
Trees. But that which is moft remarkable here, is the well contrived
Bridge of Wood, made partly over the River 'Dravns,  and partly over
the Fenns adjoyning, being five Miles long : being rayled, and having
Towers at eVery quarter of a Mile : that part over the River Dravas,
was burnt down by Count Nicolas Serini,  in the laft Wars, and ano-
ther built fince. He that beholds this Bridge, the Towers of Wood
upon it, the ftrong rayles and floar, and the numerous fupporters of it,
cannot but wonder, howthey fliould be fupplied with Wood to build
it, or maintain it. But hereof I fpeak elfewhere, this is the greateft
Paflage in Hungary,  from Servia,  and the Turkijb  Dominions. Had
this been well defended, when Solyman  ifivaded Hungary,  he had not
probably obtained fo eafie a March unto Buda.  And to hinder the
Supply of the Grand Ptjiers  Army from other parts of Turky,  Count
Brini  burne 1 down that part, which was built over the Dravus •  and
in his return burnt Quinc{ue Ecolejice  or the City of five Churche-s,
which lieth Weftward from EJJeck.

E From

A Journey front  Vienna to  Larifla.

From thence we came to Valcovar,  where there is a handfom wood-
en Bride over the River Walpo  or Palpanus,  plentiful of Fifli; and upon
which, to the Weftward, ftands the Town of Walpo,  taken by the
Turks  in the Year 15’45'. by the Treachery of the Dependants, after
that it held out thrce Months under the Command of Perennus’s  Lady
and Friends, and the Garrifon was notwithftanding put to the Sword.
Then by Sotzin Palanka,  and Tomarnick  or Talornick,  to Metrouitza  a
large Town, and a great plače for a Fair, ftrengthned by the adjacent
Lake. So to Simonoajitz^  leaving at a good diftance on the right hand
the famous old Sirmium,  now an inconfiderable plače, whereof I have
alfo faid fomewhat elfevvhere. They call this Country Schremnia;  and
that, more near the Dravus, Boffega.

In this Country many Families, and the Inhabitants of divers little
Towns, live ali under ground. I had formerly read of Troglodjtes  and
fubterraneous JsJations, about PEgypt;  butl was much furprized to fee
the like in this plače, and could not but fay unto my felf:

Noiv I bePieue the  Troglodytes of old,
Whereof  Herodotus and  Strabo told;
Since every where^ about thefe pa ts, in koles,
Cunicular men Ifind, and humane Mole s.

Near thefe Habitations are Wells, to fupply them with Water ; which
they draw up, like Dyers and Brewers: and Dogs come out upon
Strangers. A.s we travelled by them, the poor Chriftians would be-
take themfelvesto their holes, like Conies. So that to fatisfie our curi-
ofities, we were fain to alight, and enter their houfes, which we found
better than we expečted, divided into partitions, with Wooden Chim-
neys, and a Window at the farther end , a little above the ground :
and ali things as neatly difpofed, as in other poor houfes al ove ground;
although but meaniy, after the falhion of thofe parts. Their Speech
is a Dialečt of the Schlavonian.  Then travelling on between the Danu-
lius  and the 5a^«r,we came to Zemlin  upon the Davit;  from vvhence
We had a fair Profpečt of Belgrade,  into the Caftle of 'Z.emlrn, Ste-
phen,  the ufurping Ring, retired, and died. From hence we pafled by
Water unto Belgrade. Belgradeflaurunum,Alba Graca,Greek-Weifienburg.,
or Nandor Alba,  as the JMungarians  call it, it is a large, ftrong, popu*
lous, and great TradingCity, in Servia,  or Mcefia  Superior, feated at
the Confluence of the River Savus,  and Danubius : having the firft
on the Weft, the other on the North. The Danubius  is here very
broad, runs furioufly, and feems to cut off the Savus,  as the Rhofne
doth the Soane,  by Lyon  in France.

The Water of the Danule  feems more white and yellow, troubled,
and more confufed.

Turlidus & volvens flaventeis Ijler arenas.

That of the Savus,  darker, greenifti and clear; at the entrance of the
Savus,  there is an Ifland, on which there is now much Wood, although
it be not older than live and thirty years; about which time, fince the
filt of both ftreams fo fettled, as to appear firft above Water.

Arriving

A ]ourney  /mv Vicnna  to  Larifla, 27

Arriving it Belgrade,  I pafled by the Water Caftie, and aftersvards
by the uppfer Caftie, both large, and having many Towers; The
Streets, vvhere the greateft Trade is driven, are covered over vvith
Wood, as in divers other Trading Places; fo that they are not oflended
yvith the Sun, or Rain. They confift commonly of Shops, vvhich
are but finali; and no other, than a Taylors Shop-board, placed lovv;
upon vvhich, after the farne manner, the Shop-keeper fits, and felleth
liis vvares to his Chapman vvithout, fevv or none entring in. I favv alfo
two large places built of ftone, like unto the Exchange, with tvvo
rovvs of Pillars over one another ; but they vvere fo fuli of Merchants
Goods, that tl\ey loft much of their beauty. There are alfo tvvo large
Bttzejiens,  or places, vvhere the richeft Commodities are fold. They
are built in the form of a Cathedral Church, and vvithin are like to
|he old Exchange, above ftairs. The Grand Vlfier  hath built a noble
Caravanfara  in this City, vvith a Fountain in the Court, and near unto
it a Mofchea,  vvith a Fountain before it: vvhich vvas the firft Mofchea,
vvhich I had the opportunity to fee vvithin-fide. He hath alfo built a
Metre/eck  or College for Students, I favv aStulent habited in green,
and vvearing a Turbant vvith four Corners, different from others,
vvhich is a peculiar diftinčtion. Although near to moft Towns there
be Sepulchres to be feen, yet I obferved them to be moft numerous at
Belgradeps.  being very populous.and the Plague havingbeen lately in it.

We lodged at an Armenian  Merchants houfe, vvhere vve vverehand-
fomly accommodated. And vve vifited divers others, vvho had built
them fair houfes; one, in vvhich there was a Fountain and handfom
Bath, and Stoves, vvhere vve vvanted not Coffee, Sherbet,  and excellent
Wines; fuch as the Neighbour Country affords. Thefe Armenians
are difperfed into allTrading Places,and havea Church here at Belgrade,
and fcem to be more plain dealing, and reafonable men to buy any
thing of, than either Jeivs  or Greeks.

The Countriesabout have a great Trade unto this plače: the Raguje-
ans  Trade here, and the Eaftern Merchants of Vienna  have a Fačtory in
this City. And furely Belgrade  is as vvell feated for Trade, as any in-land
plače in Europejov  being fituated upon the Confluence of the Danubius,
and the Savus,  having the great River tibifeus  running into the Danule
near it • the Dravus  not very far from it, and the River Morava  not far
below it; the Danube  alfo flovving forvvard unto the Euxine  Sea,it may
hold no uneafie Commerce vvith many remote parts. And Servia  being
a fruitful and plcafant Country confifting of Plains, Woods, and Hills,
vvhich might afford good Metals, not vvithout ftout Men, good Horfes,’
Wines and Rivers,if it vvere in the Chriftians hands ofthe temper of thofe
in the Weftern part of Europejc  might make a very flourilhing Country.*

This plače hath formerly been the Bulvvark of Huugarj,  in vain be-
fieged by Amurath  the fecond, and again by Mahomet  the Great, vvho
vvas repulfed by the valour of Hunniades,  and the Auxiliaries, raifed by
Friar Capifiranus;  vvhen Hunniades  ifluing forth, and encamping out of
the City, beat avvay the Turki[h  Forces vvith great flaughter: vvhere
Mahomet  himfelf vvas vvounded in the breaft, loft his Ordnance, and
tvvo hundred Ships vvere overthrovvn, by a Fleet, vvhich came from
Buda ; but, being unprovided, it vvas fince taken by Sol^man  the Mag-
nificent, in the fecond Year of his Reign,in the Year ofour Lord 1521.
and in no likelihood to be recovered.

E x Leavirig

2 8 ]ourney from  Vienna to  LarifTa.

Leaving Belgrade,  we proceeded in Servla,  and pafled by a very
high Hill, called Havilleck,  on the South or right hand, where areftill
the ruines of an old Monaftery, and came unto Hiffafgick,  nigh the
Danule;  which, in Maps, is commonly placed too far from it. Here
we took leave of that noble River, vvhich by this time hath run a long
coutfe ; and from Vlme^  in Sdn»abenlandt s  where it begins to be navi-
gable, about nine hundred Miles: but more from its firft fource and
orignal ; and hath a long fpace yet to run, before it enters the Eux-
im.  Next to Collar,  not far from Samandria,  an old habitation and Ro¬
man  Colony, but now- a plače of no great remark. It fell into the hands
of the Turks  in the time of Amiratb  the firft, and was given to the
Chriftians again by his Son Sultan Bajazet,  for Lazarus Defpot cS Ser-
■vla  being flain in Battel, left a mournful Widow. Stephen  his Eldeft
Son, and a fair Daughtcr, and their Family being then in great diftreiš,
they fent Ambaffadors to Sultan Bajazet,  vvith rich Prefents and
great Oflčrs which pleafed him well, but above ali he was marvelloufly
faken with the incomparable beauty of the fair Defpoina,  at the farne
time prefented to him by her Mother the Defpotin,  who had formerly
promifed her to him, upon which he not orily granted them peace for
the prefent, but iti return thereof beftowed upon them the pleafant
City di Sebiandria.  The beautiful Defpoina  after this when Bajazet
was overthrown, and ihut up in an Iron Cage, was fuddenly taken
Prifoner in the City of Prufa  in Ajia Minorbj Axalla,  one of the Gene-
rals to Tanter lane,  and carried far away, into the Eaftern Parts of the
World, but hcroevcr it came to pafs She was afterwards brought back
again, and now lies buried by the Tomb of Sultan Bajazet  at Brufia :
From hence to Hfan Baffa Palanka,  about forty Englijb  miles from
Belgrade :  perhaps fo called from Haffan Bafjaz  famous Turkijh  Gene¬
ral Here I could not but take notice of an handfome Antiquity in
Stone, of a Lyon worrying a Wolf.

From thence to Baditzna,  where the Worttens drefs began to change,
and was fbmeUhat odd unto me. They wear a kind of Canopy on
their heads; which is iet about, as alfo their foreheads, with ali forts of
mony, tvhich they can get of Strangers. We left fome fmall pieces a-
mong them, to add unto that curiofity : in this kind of Ornament I
ha ve feen fome Gmcian IVornen  very rich,and fomewhat after this fafhi-
on but their head-drefs notraifed fo high, having their foreheads co-
vered with Ducats of Gold, and Pearl.

we

A Journejrfrom  Vicnna /o Lariflk

We pafled on to Jagodna,  pleafantly fcated, and in a fair Čountry,
whence fetting forwards, aftcr a few hours we turned Southvvard, and
foon after, upon the fide of an Hill, upon the right band, I faw the
Tomb of a Tur kiji  Saitit, about four yards long, and a fquare covered
plače by it: here our Chiaus  alighted, and performed his devotions in
prayer, then we travelled on, through great Woods, dangerous for
Wolves and Thieves, by Cbifflick,  where there is a CaravanfaraT  but
notalways fafe: fo as we refrelhed our felVes in a large Farmlibpfe,
not far from thence, belonging to a rich Wine-Merchant of Belgrade.
From hence we travelled by Night to the noted River Morava  or Mof-
chius,  the chief River of this Country ; which arifing above in thb
Mountains in two flreams, ihe one named Morava di Bulgaria,  the p-
ther Morava di Servia,  after uniting, runs into the Danube^  at Žen*
derin  or Singidunum,  oppofite to the Rafcian  Ihoar : v e pafled tliis
River at a plače vvhich was broad, fomcvvhat deep, and rapid, and
therefore not without fome fear, and the continued loud prayer of the
Chiaus  in Turkijb^  and of the Couriers Ora pro ncbis.  Tliis paflage put

A Journey from  Vienna to  LanlLi.

me inmind ofthe fvvift River Var us,  in the Confines of Pr cvetice  and
Italy,  which I pafied on Horfe-back, with two men going by me, on
the lovver fide ihoving upmy Horfe left the current ihould bear him
down. By this River Morava,  the commodities of Servia,  and part of
Bulgaria,  are brought into the Danule,  and fo difperfed ; and up the
current of the farne River are brought Salt and other commodities,
from Hungary, Auftria,  and the neighbour Countreys. Not far from
this River, wasthat great flaughter of the Turks  by Hunniades ; vvho,
with ten thoufand Horfe, fet upon the Turkifb  Čamp by Moon-light,
flevv tbirty thoufand, and took four thoufand Prifoners, vičtoricufhre-
turning unto his Čamp. Where he left Vladiflaus  and George Defpot  of
Servia.  We arrived at length at Halli Jahifar,  or Crujhovatz  in Bulga-
rian  ; a confiderable plače, vvhere there is an handfom Church, vvith
tvvo fair Tovvers. Then travelling the whole day through Hills and
Woods, we came to Procupie,  vvhich fome will ha ve to be V/Ha Froco-
piana,  in Turkijh  called TJrchup.  Here vve ftayed till the next day, be-
ing lodged in a Ragufean  Merchants houfe, vvhere vve were vvell enter-
tained. The Prieft, being of the Roman  Church, fpake Latine,  vvhich is
a Language not ordinary in thefe parts; and enquiring of me after La¬
tine Books, I prefented him vvith one, called Manuduilio ad coelum,
vvhich he kindly accepted, and gaveme a vvrought-colourcd Handker-
chief, and fome little things of thofe parts. They had alfo a Phvfician,
who had fome knovvledge of Simples and ordinary Compofitions. His
manner was to go into the Market-place every morning, and invite ali
perfons, who ftood in need of his afliftancej to refort unto him

From hence vve came to Lefcoa,  or Lefcovia,  vvhere I could obferve
little, befides a large Tovver, which feemed to be ancient, but vvithout
Infcription. We pafied much of our time at a great Fair, vvhich hap-
pened tobe atthat time kept in a large enclofed plače, vvith great refort
of People; vvhere I thought it feafonable, to prefent the Chiaus  vvith a
Feather; he having loft his the daybefore, and vvefound fomevvant
thereof, for hereby vve travelled vvith more Authority through ali
places. This Tovvn is feated upon the remarkable River Lyperitza,
vvhich may vvell be called the Meander  of Majla-,  for it runs fo
vvinding and crankling betvveen the Hills, that in t e fpace of lefs than
tvvelve hours, vve pafied it ninety times. This called to my mind the.
River Taro  in ltaly,  vvhich, parting from the Dominions of Parma,  I
pafied forty times, before I came to Fornovo.

The next day vve travelled over the Mountain cliffitra,  one of the
Spurs or Excurfions of Mount Hcemus.  We vvere much furprifed at
the gallant appearance thereof, for the Rocks and Stones of this Moun¬
tain ihine like Silver,and by the light of Sun and Moon,ffor I pafied it
once by day and another time by night) affbrdeda pleafant glittering
Ihovv, as confifting of Mufcovia  glafs, vvhereof I brought fome home
with me. This Mountain furely cannot be much unlike that mention-
ed by Olearius  in his Travels into Perfia,  betvveen Permeras  and Sca-
machia,  vvhere he relates that he favv a Mountain of Lapis Specularis,
vvhich vvhen the Sun Ihined upon it,looked like a heap of Diamonds.VVe
defcended in a narrovv rocky way by the ftrong Caflle of Kolombotz,
or Gelobotz,  and came unto TJrania,  feated at the bottom of the Moun¬
tain cbffura,  this is a ftrong Pafs, vvhich the Caftle commands, and
locks up the paflage.

The

A  ]ourney  from  Viennd to  Latilfa. gt

The Hills bettveen Serviet  and Macedonia,  are a part of Mount Hce-
mu$  • which, under feveral names,is thought to 6Xterid from the Adria-
tičk  to the Euxine  Sea; admitting of feveral paflagcs, which Philip,
King of Macedon  took a fpecial čare to ihut up againft the Neighbour-
ing Nations. Which when he had done, hethought himfelf lecure:
and that from thenče no Enemies could come at him, cxcept they drop-
ped out of the Clouds. Some have thought, that from the middle
Peaks of Hcemtts  a man might fee both the Euxine  and Adriatick Seas;
and King Philip  made tryal of it: but we find not, that he fatisfied
his curiofity therein ; nor do I think any hath done it. Being upon
high Mountains, and more inclining to the Adriatick  Sea, I vieued ali
about; but found, that the high Allanian  Hills did cut off ali long
Profpcčt.

From TJrania  we pafled to which there is flill a Greek

Monaftery, upon the fide of the Hills. From thence to Kajdanlih  br
Tigres  Town ; but why fo callcd, I could not learn. Then to Kupru-
lih  or Bridge-Tomn,  where there is a confiderable Rivernamcd Pjtnia,
and a good Bridge built overit. ThisTown was cafually fet on tire,
while we were in it, and a grčat part ofit burnt down; the tire enčrea-
fing much before we got out ofit. Herc wemetwith many perfons,
who brought the Tribute, and a Prefent of Hawks out of \Vallachia  unto
the Grand Seignior,then  refiding at Larifla.

from hence, by IJlar,  we came to Pjrlipe,  firft paffing the high
Mountains of Pjrlipe  in Macedonia,  which litine like Silver, as thofe of
Clifiura;  and, befide Mojcovia  Glafs, may contain good Minerals in
their bowels. The Rocks of this Mountain are the moli craggy that I
have feen ,• and mafly Stones lye upon ilones, vvithout any Earth about
them, and upon a ridge of a Mountain, many Steeples high, flands
the ftrong Caftle of Marco Crollowitz,  a man formerly famous in thefe
Parts.

Then through a Plain Country we came to Monafler  or 7Wž, a great
Plače, w.ell peopled, and pleafantly Seated. Here the Sultana,  who was
great with Child at Larijfa,  was defigned to be delivered, and lye in.
Ali accommodations being ordcred to that purpofe, vvhere I afterwards
heard Ute was delivered of a Daughtcr, who livcd not longafter. The
Turks,  who have a high opinion of Ak^ander  the Great, would have
been glad to have had a Son of the Empire born in Macedonia.

From hence to Filurina,  and Ecciffb V er leni,  vvhere there are Ati-
dulce  of good efleem, the Springs large, and plentiful. Before we de-
fcended the Hill, which leads to this Town, we had a fight before uš
of the famous Mount Oljmpus,  about Seventy miles off;  and ort the left
hand we faw theLakes (APetriski,  and Ofirma;  they have a Tradition,
that one of thefe Lakes was made, by taking great Ilones out of the fide
of the Hills,whereby the Subterraneous water,finding včnt, over-flo\ved
the Neighbour Plaines.

We came afterwards to Egrilugia,  where we again left the Plairis,'
and travelled over high rocky Hills to Sariggjole.  .W hence paiTing
through the River Injecora,  we came to Sarvitza,  a noted Plače, built
partlyupon an Hill,and partly in the Plain. The Chtiftians live moil
in the upper part, the Turks  in the lower : there is alfo a Caflle upon
a very high Rock: not far from hence we went through a palfage, cut
through the Rocks, like to a great Gate, and a finali River pafling alfb
through

32

A  ]ourney  from  Vienna to  LarifTa.

through it, which makes a faft Pafs, and commands the paflage
of this Country,which put me in mind of la Chiufajn  the Julian Alpes,
betvvecn Venjone  and Ponteva ; which paflage the Venetiaus  fhut up
every night, we took notice alfo in our Journey, of the firft Turkijb
Mofchea,  which was built in thefe parts, upon that plače vvhere the
Turks  firft refted, after they had taken the ftrong Caftle and Paflage of
Šarvitza.  Here we alfo pafled by a Hill of a fine red Earth, vvhereof
they make Pots and Veflels, like thofe of Portugal  Earth, which are of
efteem ali about thefe Parts. We proceeded over dangerous Rocks, in
narrovv hanging ways ftill on Horfe-back ; although we had little
pleafure to look dovvn the Precipices on one hand, and fee the Carkaf-
fes of Horfes in fome places, vvhich had fallen dovvn and broke their
necks. Afterwards we had the Mount Oljmpus  on our left hand, till
we came to AleJJbne  or Alefian,  a confiderable plače; vvhere there is
a Greek  Monaftery, and Monks of the Order of St. Bajil.  The Mo-
naftery was of a different kind of building from any I had then feen.
From hence pafling over a River, we entered ihto a round Plain, of
about five Miles over; with divers Tovvns pleafantly featcd in it.
Then over an Hill again, which is a Špur of Mount Oljmpus ;  upon
the top whereof an old Man ftood beating of a Drum, to give notice
unto Paflengers on both fides, that thofe parts were free from Thieves.
From this Hill as we defcended, vve had a good Profped of the Plains
of Theflalj ;  and at the foot of it we turned to the left, and pafled over
phariinf.  a  River, which runs from under a rocky Mountain, not in fmali

Springs, but the whole body of the River together; and then through
Vineyards, and Cotten Fields, to Tomovo,  and from thence to Lariffa,
vvhere the Ottoman Court*  refided .• of which places vve fliall fpeak more
hereafter.

In our return, we left the road, about Kaplarlih,  and turned unto
Skopia,  a City of great Trade, and the largeft in thefe parts. Scopia
or S c upi  of Ptolomy,  named Z>fcopia  by the Turks , is feated in the re-
moteft parts of Mtejia  Superior, or the Confines of Macedonia,  at the
foot of Mount Orlelus,  upon the River Vardar,  or Axius,  in a plea-
fant and plentiful Country, feated partly on Hills, and partly on Plains.
It vvas firft a Bifhops, aftervvards an Arch BifhopsSee ; ftill a pleafant
and populous plače. There are feven hundred Tanners in it, and they
Tann in great long Troughs of Stone, and make excellent Leather,
wherewith they furnifh other parts.There are fome handfom Sepulchral
Monuments,and many fair Houfes, as that of the (Wž£,and that belong-
ing to the Emir,  or one of Mahomets  Kindred, vvhofe Father was of
great efteem in thefe parts. In the Court-yard of the Emir s  Houfe,
ftands a remarkable and peculia ly contrived Fountain, in manner of a
Caftle, fet round with many Tovvers, out of the tops vvhereof the
Water fprings forth. '-Their beft Houfes are furnifhed vvith rich Car-
pets to tread upon: and the Roofs divided in to Trian-les, Quadrangles,
and other Figures fairly gilded, and painted vvith feveral Colours, but
vvithout any Imagery or Reprefentation, either of Animal or Vegeta-
ble. Here is alfo a fair Bezejlan,covered  vvith Lead ; many Streets co-
vered over vvith Wood; and divers places are fair both vvithin and
vvithout the Tovvn , being fet off by Trees and pleafant Hills and
Dales.

There are a great number of Mofcheds  or Turki [h  Churches. The
faireft

A Jouvney fr&»  Vienna to  L-aft£& - —— z'Z'

faireft is on a Hill, and hath a 'farse 'fw co  before it, fupported by four
Marble Pillars; near vvhich is d  Tdvvefr of Wood with a Clock and a
Bell in it; Jrom vvhen e 1, had a mod Prpfpečtof tkc^Čitv. f .T^grgjš
alk) art Arch, vvhich fofcms.to.be Ancient, and ai-riv^l^ rumiin^uncfcr
it .4 hhge Stone alfo vvhich feemA tgbfc^parro^Ji fillar^vv^h tllis
InfcnptionmS H A N C. A Httle way out of the Cuy7 tnere is a no-
ble A^uedubt  of Stone, vvith about uto hundred Arčhes, made froni one
Hill to another, over the lower ground or ValleV bctvVeen, vvhich is a
handfome Antiguity, and adds to the honour of this plače. VVhcn
Malibrnet  thd Firft corlquered this City, he placed a Cofcnv of A(iafycks
in it, vvhicK hiškes it the more Turkifb.  Grčat Atrions have ličen
pjerforihed hereaboutsji in the tiibeofthe Rotnans^  |articulai ly by;A’e-
ffllianus ;  as is teftifieaby Trebellius Tollio-,  tirat he vvoh to many Bat-
tles, and carried on fuch mightv tljings at Scupi,  that he deferved a
Triumph. Hereabouts alfo ftodd Pdrteccpolis,  and Z/lpianum.

The Sanziack  of this Plače is under the Bepleile^  of Rutnelia  or Grm¬
ela. A  Trade išdrivciifrom lience tb Bel^ade^  ahd to Theffatotoca  or
SalonichL  and mahy otlfo,r placeš, I Kave been rrtoro'particular con-
cernihg-th-is City, beeftufe Rdcofcraphebs  pafsit over in a fevv vvords; and
1 could never meet vvith any, vvho had becn at it.

From hence vvetravelled to C at (banic h &  Fortrefs that commands the
paflage b tvvecn the Mills*; ahd ifkrvvards advanced folar, as to enter
the famotts Plains of Bulgarba ; vvhich ibmt take tobe Caifyus

RleridiZ,  a Pfaifi not very much exb€eding Liriridn Heuih,  vet the
iStage of pretit Ačtioris. HCrč the gfifattft' Chriftian Army, tFafvvas
ever brotight intothe Ficki in Europe,  čbnfifting of five hundred thou-
frmd mbfl; hiider LaiKHtf be/pot  ’of 6’ A^ia y  Jbught vvitlr the Forces
lif AdjuriibtViS  firft, afid loft the In vvhich’Battle' Lazar us  vvas
flain : ahd Ai-niirah,  vfevifing the dfetid bOclies, was ftabbed*.by Michael

Sduldiet, ifeft for dead in the Field. Aimirah
hath in thbfe Plains 1  a M&ifofial dM&Atffient 'unto this day; and that
part is called the Field of the Sepulchre: in the farne Plains vvas
allbfqu®Tft i tilAt remarkwW^'Battle bef^veen'Z7«wwžizd<rj and Mahomet^  for
thrtfc dlVš' fogether ; 77w^/<s;/ej,having ver'y uneguai Forces,vvas
at laft bVefi-tlffb^fi. ■ ' \ :  '

We ptecfctedbd fbrVviftl to Preflina^ K-  gobd Teavn/and where we ex-
]?edtl‘d gdbd atboitimodafton 1 ; but Imvihg enteted into a 1 fair Room,
We feurid a ihah lying rfdwh in it ftcfr' of the PlagiSt. 6o’we confiilred
our fafety, and ftayed not long ; and having a Gjpfie  to our Guide, vve
travelied‘ttft'69gh a Gotihffp tlfinly‘Wabil5žU, but^fruitful and pleafant
aiid-vve^ifftieh refrčfhetMith fair ■ Vvhich grew plentifuliy

in the wys : ? hč palftd alfo by ah liot B’ath, a little on the ri^lvthind.
The Bdth is A ! fi atčhed Rdoiir vveljbuilt, and very refrefbing unto Tra-
veHferš. It-bate a red Sediment, and tfetapfčgnated Vvith a juccus lapide-
fcens,  and makes a grav Stone. Itis vvithin tvvo hours going of !&p2/j-
chdi^Uii  br Edir^mnb,  vvhere 1 dbfiMbd a Cdnvent and an old Clrurfh
vvith tvVo Hihdfdm Tovveri;: front vvhence pafiing over the Hill Ja/ne-
lafe,Etik  carrfe tb- E/b^l/^ckbetwcen  the tvvo Morava^ and fo by aCaftle
u^bn a Hill, nea'r unto vvhich is a noted Convcnt, vvherein is kept the
body of Rettc-z Ltizarus,  dnd the body of St. Rvmanus^  and fo proceed-
e& -bftrt-Fi^Sft-mbr forgft- to 4-tv femething of Lariffa.

coou

F

THE

34

AND

THE

DESCRIPTION

OF

THESSALT.

L A RIS S A  is the chief City of Thefialy,  feated by the River
Peneu^  the chief River of that Country. Upon the North
it hath the Famous Mountain Olympus y  and on the South a
Plain Country. It is now inhabited by Chriftians, Tur h  and
3ew,  hath fair Btzeftens,  divers Turkijk Mofcheds,  and Chriftian
Churches in it. It is pleafantly feated, and upon a rifing ground : on
the upper part whereof ftands the Palače of the Grand Seignior,  which
he hath made ufe of during hiš refidence in this plače : it is contrived
with jetting large Windows, on four fides, near which he took his rc-
paft, and pafs-time, according as the Wind fcrved, or afforded the beft
ventilation.

It is alfo an Arch-Bifliop’s See, having divers Suftragan Bifhops under
it. The Reverend Father Dionyjius  was then Arch-biihop. The Church
ofSt. Achilleus  is the Cathedral, where I heard Divine Service, the
Arch-bilhop being prefent, and ftanding in his Throne in his Epifcopal
habit, and his Crofier in his hand; when three or four of us Strangers
came into the Church, he fent one to fume us with Incenfe and lweet
Odours.

The Grand Seignior  kept his Court in this plače for fome years, in or-
der to his Affairs in Candia,  and for the great conveniencc of Hunting
and Hawking, wherein he exceedingly delights. When I came away,
it was faid, that he would go to Negroponte ; but he remained at La¬
ri fia  fome months after, until he removed to Salonichi,  and aftervvards
to Adrian ople.

In the hot and dry Summer 1669. the Grand Seignior  pafled above
two months of that Seafon upon the Neighbouring Mount Olympus y
partly that he might have a large Profpečt over the Plains, and a part
of the TEgaan Sea,  and partly to enjoy frefli Air, and be removed from
the choaking hcat of the Valleys; but this humour proved deftručiive
to fomehundreds of thofe, vvhich attended him; for it became fo cold

upon


The Defcripiion  of  Larifla  and  The(faly.  35

upon the Hill, that many, who reforted unto hirt), being over-heated
by afcending the Mountain, and then pierced by the cold Air above;
fell fick, and dyed ; and often in fuch places, where there was fcarce
Etrth enough to bury them. The Sultan  himfelf fell alfo into a diflem-
per, but it lafled but thrce or four days: of Horfes and Camelš not a
few perilhed. The Sultan,  who is a dcfperate rider, killed one of his
beft Horfesj by forcinghim up a noted Peak of the Mountain, called
Pythagon  or Kifiagon,  vvhere few or none could follow him; he was alfo
fo daring, that he would have leaped on Horfcback ovcr a Fiflure or
Cleft in the Rocks in a bravery; and was fcarce with-held from that
bold attempt, by the prayersand importunity of his chr.feft followers.
Many alfo perifhed by drinking of a Spring of a vvhitifh colour upon
the Hill, in their Heats and Thirft, contračbed by afcending the Moun¬
tain ; they complaining of a coldnefs and heavinefs at their Stomach for
three or four days before they dyed.

The Greeks {  who are fbrtvard to magnifie the Concerns of their
Country,) fpeak highly of Mount Olpmpus  : and Homer  would have it
to be the habitation of Jupiter.px\&  theGods,and tobe without Clouds;
but unto me fome part of the Alpes  feem much higher ; and I have
leen Clouds above it; ahd in September  there appeared no Snow tipen
it, which the high Peaks in the Alpes, Pyrentean  and Carpathian  MoUri-
tains, befides many others in Europe,  are never without. And Olympus
alfo waš plentifully fupplied uith it upon the firft Rain that fell in that
Country; it not being unknown to you, I fuppofe, that when it rains
upon the Valleys, at the farne time it fnows upon high Mountains;
and this Hill I mufi confefs to be vifible at a great diftance; for I be-
held it from Ecciffb Verbeni  in Macedonia,  feventy miles from it ; and
it confifl s not of one rifing Peak, as it is fometimes deferibed, but is
alfo extended a great way in length, and makes good the Epithete of
Homer, Longum tremere fecit Olympum.  If the word be there taken,not
onely for high, but long.

This Hill chiefly extending from Eafl to Wefl,makes the Inhabitants,
at the foot of the Nortli and South fideš, to have a diflerent temper of
Air, as if they lived in Climes much diflant; which makes the expref-
fion of Lučan  very Emphatical:

Nec metuens imi  Borean habitator  Olympi,
Lucent em totis ignorat notlibut  Arčton.

Paulus LEmylius,  the Roman  Conful, vvinding about this Hill, by the
Sea-fide, overcame King Perfeus,  and fo conquered Macedonia.  When
King Antiochus  befieged Larifia, Appius Claudius  raifed the Siege, by
g, eat fires, made upon part of Mount Olympus ; the King apprehending
thereby, that the whole force of the Romans  werc coming upon him.
But the Exp!oit of the Conful Martius  upon this Hill was mofl remark-
able, and unparallel’d by any fince; who being fent againfl King Phi¬
lip,  the laft of that Name, brought his Souldiers over Glympus,  by paf-
fages unknown, and fuch difficult ways, that his men were fairi to wal- $•
low, and make hard fhift down ; and his Elephants, by flrange contri-
ved Engines, fomewhat like dravv-Bridges, one under another, were

F let

The  Defcription of  LarifTa  and  Thcllalf.

let down into the Plains ; as Sir Walter Raivleigh  hath more largely
defcribed the farne.

' And as the Grand Seigmor  hath honoured Larifia  by a long aboad in
pd 9 lybiw.  it; fo King Philip  of Macedon,  the laft ofthatName, did the like : for
we find he pafled the Summer at Larifia,  the farne Year, when Han-
nilal  took Saguntus  in Spain.  Whether Xerxes  were here, when his
great Army pafled through Thefialp  towards Thermopylie,  Hiftories do
not declare. But King Philip,  Father unto Alexander  the Great, after
he had quieted the lllyrians,3xsA Pannonians,  bent his mind upon Greece;
in order vvhereto he took the City Larifia  upon the River Peneus,  and
thereby got fo good footing in Theffalj,  that he made great ufe of the
Theffalians,  in the following Wars with Greece.

Bcfore the Battle of Pharfalia,  as Cie far  delivers, Scipio  lay with a
Legion in this City; and this was the firft plače, unto which Pompej
retired, after his Overthrow ; according to that of Lučan.

Vidit prima ture teflis  Larifia ruinie.
Nobile, ne c vibium f'at is caput.

And not ftaying there, he went along the River ; and taking Boat,
went out to Sea, and was taken in by a great Ship,then ready to weigh
Anchor.

The River Peneus,  which runs by Larifia,  is the chiefeft in Thefi
faly,  and into which moft of the other Rivcrs run ; arifing from Mount
Pindus  ; and running into the Sinus Thermaicus,  or Gulf of Salonichi,
pafling by thefamous Valley of Tempe,  and running between Mount
Ofimpus  and into the Sea.

In that famous Expedition againft the Gracians, Xerxes  would have
made his entrance by this way: for Herodot us  delivers, that he fail-
ed from Therma,  now Salonichi,  unto the mouth of the River Peneus;
to obferve, if there were any paflage, or any could be made, to enter
into Theffaly ; and finding, upon enquiry, that the River had no other
paflage, and that it could not be turned : he faid, That the TheJJa-
lians  had done wifely to yield, and make their peace with him ; for,
by fiopping of the River Peneus, Theffaly  might have been drowned.

I found the Epithete of Homer  very agreeable unto this River, for it
hath a clear flream and bottom, and the Fable of Apollo,  and Daphne,
the Daughter of Peneus,  who was turned into a Bay-Tree, had a pro-
per Scene in this plače : for on the Banks of the River, Bay-trees grow
plentifully unto this day.

There is an handfome Stone-Bridge over this River, confifting of
Nine Arches; and peculiarly contrived with holes and paflages in the
folid parts betvveen the Arches, to aflord fome paflage unto the water,
when it is high; and hinder the bearing down of the Bridgejin high wa-
ters, and great floods.

The City being full, many Turks  had their Tents in the Fields, by
the River fide, and lower Grounds, which being of various colours, and
not far from a large Mofcbea,  and the City, aflbrded a pleafant Pro-
fpečt The Sails of their Tents were fo ordered, that they came not
within a yard of the ground: fo that the Air might freely enter into
them;

The Defcription of  Larifla and  Theftaty. 3 7

them; where they commonly remained paffing a great part of the day
in Drinking Sherbet  and Coffee.

The neareft confiderable Port unto Lariffa,  is that of Vodo,  or old
Pagafa,  in the Sinus Pagaficus^  or Demetriacus,  or Gulf of A mir o  : not
far from whence ftood old Argo s Pelafgicum;  from which plače the
Argonatits  firft fet fail, in that famous Voyage !br Colchosfjj  which way
the Grand Seignior  received intelligence from Candia,  and his Afian  and
Afričan  Dominions. And not far from hence, at the Promontory Se-
pias, there happened the greateft Shipwrack we read of; when Xerxes
ioft five hundred Sail by a Tempeft from an Eaft-wind.

It was no hard matter to have a fight of the Grand Seignior^  at this
plače ; for he rode out often, for his recreation of hunting and hawk-
ing, with great number of Attendants, and Huntfmen, and Falconers,
in their proper habits : and alfo went frequently to the great Mofchea.
I had a Hill view of him, as he came out of his Palače, to go unto his
devotiotl. Before he came out, divers brave Horfes richly caparifoned,
were mounted by divers of his Attendants, nobly attired, and rode
about the Court-yard;fo that he looking out of the window,made choice
of which he liked beft,and would then make ufe of.

At his firft appearance abroad, great acclamations were made, low
bowings from ali, both near and at a diftance; tlje Streets u ere made
clean, and a Janizary  was placed at every corner, to provide,that there
might be no hinderance in the way. The Chiaufet  rode before, the
Shatters, or great Courtiers, about Twenty four followed on foot.; and
immediately, on each fide of his Horfe, walked two chief Janizaries,
with white Feathers, fet in an hollow Pipe before their Caps, very
large, and fpread,’ and about a fathom high; which fhaking as they
vvalked, were high enough, both to fhade and fan his face as he rode.
Many brave Horfes were led after him, and divers perfons followed,car-
rying Culhions and Pillovvs to the Mofchea.  Before he came out of his
Palače, I obferved many gallant Perfons in the Porch,which the Chiaus,
who walked with me, told me, were perfons of the greateft quality in
Turky.

The GrandSeignior  then under Thirty yearsof age,well fet,fome-
what fhort neckcd, inclining to fatnefs, his compfexion fallow naturally,
and much heightned by frequent riding about in thofe hot Countrys.
He hath a very ftrong body, and liealthful, and is a hard rider ; hath a
ftern look, and yet would fpeak kindly unto perfons, and encourage the
people abroad to approach him, taking no delight in the cryes, and
frights, and flying away of the Inhabitants at the fight of him, or any of
his Officers. The Grand Vifier  carricd divers Chriftian Chyrurgeons
with him to C«w^,but I heard of noPhyfician ofNotaabout theGr^rf'
Seignior.  The Sultan  took great liking to a private Turkijb Priejl^hom
he met withal by chance in Theffaly,  and made him his Chaplain; but
the report was, that a famous Prieft vvas coming to him.

Achmet y  the Prime Vifier.,  being abfent, the Chaymacham,  or Deputy
pGfier,  difpatched ali Aflairs of State here, and had the beft Houfe in'
theCity. The Emperour s Refidenthad three Interprctcrs, who, upon
ali occafions, were made ufe of in Addrefles unto him, and by whom vve
were informed of the moft confiderable Occurrencies; they being civil
perfons, and good Linguifts.-

The

5  8 The Defcription of  LarifTa and  Theflaly.

The Sultana  vas alfo at Lariffa  much beloved by the SultanJoj  birth
a Candiot,  little of ftature, fomevhat marked vith the Srnah Pox; ihe
vasthen vith child, and vas to go to lye-in at Monajter,  a great and
pleafant Tovn in Macedonia ; vhich being a plače we were to pafs
proved a great convenience unto us ; for, in order to her better Jour-
ney, the High-vays vere plained, Hills made paflable, vith Broad-
ways and Bridges over Rivers, to the great labour of the Inhabitants •
who notvithftanding were not unready, to make a Bridge fbr fuch great
Ones to pafs out of their Country; for at the firft approach of the Grand
Seignior,^.  great number of the Greeks  forfook their habitations, for fear
of him and his Attendants, and left them unto the Turks-,  but vere re-
called again by his command.

The e>rand Seigniors  Son vas alfo with him there, about Six years
old.

I vent vith Ofman Chiaus  to fee the Chaymachams  houfe,but efpecially
to hear his Mufick, which was accounted the beft in Turky.  Where I
heard the loudeft,yet not unpleafant Mufick, I ever met with; ten men
at once playing in an open high Room upon large Wind-Inftruments
vhich they mifs not to do at certain hours of the day.

In the Tovn I alfo heard fome Turkijh  Songs, but efpecially concern-
ing Sabata Sevi,  the famous Jeivijb  Impoftor, who had made a great
noife in the World, and how CuJJum Bajka  fo handled him,that he was
glad to turn Turk.  This Cufium Bajka,  is a perfon much honoured by
the Turks,  and cryed up for his great Škili and Pračtice in Phyfick • an
Art not much known amongft them. He is nov Vifier ok Er zrum  in
Afia-,  is married to one of the GrandSeigniors  Sifters, and lives with
her;  and vas formerly Eifier  of Buda,  and upon« that account well
knovn to the Germans.  Here I met alfo with a French  Book, concern-
ing Michael Cikala,  another Impoftor, vho had deceived the Em-
perour, and the King of France,  and other Chriftian Princes. Which )
the Interpreter to the Refident told me, the Turks  very much laugh-
ed at; and that he was a Grascian  born, and not a Wallachian,  Of
Faddre Ottomanno,  who vas thought to be the Grand Seigniors  Bro-
ther, nov a Dominican  Frier, and whom I had feen at Turina,  I could
hear nothing.

There were many Thoufand Souldiers, andHorfes, in and about the
City, and Five thoufand Camels for the Service of the Grand Sežgnior,
which being of different magnitudes, ages, and the bunches on their
backs of different fhapes, and in fome variety of colours, and treading-
foft. and with little noife, afforded me a pleafant fight, when they were
led by my lodging to watering at the River.

When ve read, that Mardonius,  the Perjian  General of the great Ar-
Sir Walter  my of JTerxes,  vintered in Theflalj;  It is no fmall Teftimony of the
Ravleigh.  fruitfulnefs of that Country; and though the number of men vas here
very great at this time, yet vas there no vant ofprovifion, butali
. very cheap; in a Vičtualling houfe, I could Dine vithroaftand boy-
led, and Sherbet, for the value of Six pence, and at an eafie rate could
oblige Turks  and Chriflians  with a meal, vhich they would take very
kindly.

The Plače vas alfo extraordinary populous: there being at that time
fuch a mixed multitude in it. Tet vas the City in very good order,
and

• - ....--—

The Defcription of  Laritfa and  Theffalv. 39

and guietnefs. An Oflicer with a Club in his Hand, accompapied
with about t ven ty Perfons, walking about thc Streets, and punifning
ali Perfons drunk, quarelling, clamorous, oračting any thing againfl
goodManners. t  ,

When I vas there in September  1669. it vas very hot VVeather, and
masiy were fick of Fevers and Agues; as they. vere at,that tirne jn
mod Parts of Europe,  and at my return into England  I found many
languilhing under Quartan Agues, who had beep taken therevith a ;
bout that time. They vere then alfo in. their Vintage, and we had
the opportunity of tafting their Mufi and Nev tVine; and the ftrider
Turk;;,  w ho vould not be tempted vith Wihe> vould Le mučil dchgh-
ted, to take a little in the Muft.

During the hbt fveating Seafon, we werit often to the Barber, vho
vould handfomely perform his Wofk, an<f rriuch to our refreihment;
trimming every Man according to the faihion of hjs Country.

The Greeks  have a plače, of thc bredth of a Dollar, left bare upon
the top of their Crowns ; and then let the Hair grov round it the
bredth of tvo Fingers, more or lefs; after vhich they fhave ali the refc
of their Head, and vear it bare.

The Croatian,  hath one fide of his Head Ihorn, and the other fide is
neither fhorn nor cut, but the Hair is let to grow as long as it vili.
The Hur.garian  fliaves his whole Head, except his Fore-top The
Polander,  vears his Hair fhort cut, fo as it comes dovn to
the middle of his Fore-head, and the middle of his Ear. The Turk
fhaves his vhole Head, except a Lock upon his Crovn. The Trancks
fhave not their Heads, but wear their Hair long, as with us, only for
the more amicable converfe, and that nothing about them might be of-
fenfive to thofe, whom they live amongft, they often tuck it up under
their Caps. The Greek  Priefts, alfo neither fliavc nor cut their Hair,
but wear it as long as it vili grov; and many of them have thick heads
of Hair; but thofe, that have leaft,reteivc mod refreflutient here. The
Party to be fhavcd, fits lov; and the Barber has the better advan-
tage, to fhave much at one flroke, he lays on very much Soap, and
holds his Rafor as a Knife, and in a fev ftrokes fihifhes his Work.
There is a Veflel of VVater vith a Cock hanging over their Heads,
which the Barber opens as he pleafes, and lets fall the VVater on
them.

In one of thefe Barbers fhops in the City of Lariffa  T lav ari ancient
large Tomb of Rone of zjafpis  green colour, a nobleMonument, but ta¬
ken little notice of there,and the Barber had caufed a holc to be digged
thro.igh the top flone, and put Water into it, and made it to lerVe
him for a Ciflern.

I was in fome doubt, hov ve fliolild be acčorrimodated for the ex-
change of our Ducats, Dollars, and other moncy ve brought
vith us; but ve found ready accommodation therein from Money-
changers, vho fit in the Market-place for ftich purpofes, to čhange
them into Medines, Afpers, and five  fols Piečeš, vhereof there vas
plenty in thofe Parts.

The great trading Streets vere cOvered, as iri other great Turkifb
Tovns; the Shops are fmall, but Veli filrriiflied; vherein iiang ali
Commodities, which may be had ih a larger manner, if' defired; The
Shop-keeper fits like a Taylor in his Shop, and fo fells hfe Commodi-

fie. 1 ?

4.0 The  'Defcriftion  o/LarifTa <WThe(Taly.

ties unto hisChapman,who commonly ftands in the Street. ’ er cther
Commodities,a man riding through the Streets cri.es them, and givesno¬
tice where, and at vvhat rate they may be had.

Though I have been much pleafed at the fight of the fine Stables of
Horfes of many Princes in Chriflendom.,  as at that or the Lou-vre  in
Pariš.  The Vice-Roy’s of Fhples.  The Duke of Saxwys  noble
Stable at Drefden,  and Count Wallejleyne's  at Pragtte  in the laft of
which each Horfe hath a Marble Pillar by him, eats his ProVender out
of a Manger of polifhed Marble upon a Pedeflal of the farne, placed in
a N/ccbio,  in which hangS alfo his račk of hamniered Steel, and over
hishead on one fide his Pičture as big as the life. Vet thofe gal-
lant Horfes, I beheld at LariJJa  were furprizing unto me, chofen from
ali parts of the Turki fh  Empire • which were fo richly equipped with
Bridles and Saddles fet with precious Stones,and vvithal fo tender mouth-
■ ed and tračfable, that it was a great delight to behold them. I faw
fome Tartarian  Horfes, which are of fingular efteem, for hardinelš,
lafting, and fwiftnefs, but unfightly, and promife little, and when Cha
Gagi ^ a ’  AmbafTador from the Cham  of Tartary y  prefented fome of
them to the Emperor of Germany,  at firft fight I thought them but a pi-
tlful prefent.

The Greek  Merchants fome of them learh the Ttalian  Tongue,
in order to their Commerce: which makcs that Language of
good ufe unto a Traveller in thefe parts, vvhere Prench  and Latine  are
in a manner ufelefs. The Jews  fpeak commonly Spaniflp.,  as they
do in Macedonia^ Seruia,  ahd Eulgdria ; and Eligb-Dutch  in Huli¬
gana.

I ivas in Theflalj  at a very dry fiafori, and fome confiderable Rivers
were low, and fmall ones dry, yet one I obferved about feven Miles on
this fide Tomovo,  to flow plentifully from under a rocky Mountain ;
hot in finali fprings or ftreams• but the whole bodyof the River
čarne from under the Hill. The Country hovvever in general was ve-
ry hot and dry,and I could not but tliink, what a differcnt face it now
h'ad, from that, in the time of Deucalion,  King of The^alyy  vvhen that
rnemorable deluge happened in tfiis Cqunt'ry, which fome affinji, to
havelafled a whole Winter; occafioried by fomeftopping ofrijeRiver
PtineuP,  ihd its current into the Sea ; into which River moft of the
others run, and fo an inundation mufi follovv in fuch a Country as
Phe(paly z  which is plain, and cncompalfed with Hills. And fome alfo
conceive, that in the firft fim.es ali this Country was under vvater, till
an Earthquake divided the Mduntaihs of OJpa  and Olympus r  and made
a free pafiage for Peneus,  to pafs oy Tempe  into the Sea. In Macedo-
nia,  between Comenava  and Filurina^.  at a plače called Ecciffb Verbeni^
where I faw “plentiful Springs of Mineral waters, I had alfo a Profpečt
oftwo great Lakes; one vvhereof the People^ have a Tradition, that
it firft happened by taking great ftones out of the fide of a Mountain ;
vvhereupon there ifiiied out fuch a flood of vvater, as todrovvn the
Cotintry about, and to caufe a Lake.

As I travelled in Macedonia^  the Chiaus  told me, that vvithin two
days he would fhoiv me TT-e^ men, whergby he'meant the Country
People of Thejfdly t  from'fome likenels of their Caps with fmall brims,
to the little Hats lately 'in fafliion.

The

The Defcription  o/LarifTa and  ThelTalv. 41

The Theffalians  have been a warlike Nation, andl are ftill a ftout Peo¬
ple. I heard the Turks  complain of them, as a fturdy and dcfpe-
rate People ; and Men,. who, if injured, vvould find opportunity to be
revenged : and that divers of the Turks  had been furprized, and had toft
their lives by them.

The Country of Theffalj  feemed the more confiderable to me, in rc-
gard that it hath formerly been the Seat of great Ačhbns, and prodi*-
ced many worthy Perfons ; and particularly, becaufe the-famous Jdip*
pocrates,  the Father of Phyficians lived and pračtifed bere, as may be
collečted from theOration of hisSon TA?$iZz«,and the Narration of his
Life by Soranus,  annexed to his Works; vvherein it is dclivered That he
lived in Theffalj,  and was warned by a Dream to abide in that Coun-
try. That the Princes and Rulers of the Barbarous Nations about ZA
lyria  and P e oni a,  fent hither to him; as alfo the King of Macedonia.
That he dyed in, or about Larifla.  That he was buricd between La¬
rina  and Gjrton,  and it may 'be obferved in the Epidemies or Bookš
of Hippocrates : vvherein he fets down the Particulars of the Difeafes
of his Patients, together with their Names and Places of Habitation.
That a great number of his Patients were of the City of Lariffa.

Many famous Battles have been fought in the Plains c>iTbejJ'aly.',  and
a greater than any there might have been, if the Gracians  had accep
ted of the Challenge of Mardonius, th&Perjian  General, whenhefent
unto them, to come out of their faft Places, and fight with them in
Thetfalj,  wherc there were Plains and open Places enough, vvherein to
fliow their Valour. 4

The Theffaliatts  are an handfom race of People, having black Hair,
black Eyes, and their Faces of a frelh and florid fmguine, much like
our frelh Complexions in England : fo that Strangers much admired
the Women, and fpoke often of the lel fangue de Greti,  or fair blood
of the Gracians.  The Macedonians,  who live in hilly Countries, are
of a coarfer Complexion: and the Moreans  or Pelopannefians,  who live
more South-vvard, inclineunto a fvvarthinefs.

They have always had the name of good Horfe-men, and the Coun-
try ftill abounds in good jHorfes. They have alfo great Bujfalds,
efteemed the largeft in Greece,  except thofe of Santa Mavra  in Epp-
rus.  There are alfo large and well-coloured Tartoifes,  of a fine yeb
lovv and black; and efteemed very good meat. But the Turks  laugh-
ed at the Chriftians, for -feeding on fuch Food, where they might have
Mutton, Pullets and Partridges.

The Country produces very large, fair, and delicious Figs, Water-
melons, the largeft and moft pleafant Ihavetafted; which werevery
refreihing unto us ; as alfo fair and delicate Pomegranates, Orainges,
Limons and Cjtrons, Vines, which are lovv, like thofe about Mont¬
pellier^  and not fupported ; but the Branches and Clufters great, and
the Grapes as big as good Damafens,and of a delicious taftc. The Wine
of the Country is rich, but much thereof hath a refinous tafte or tang of
the Boracho.

Theyplant Tabaco, and efteem it better, than what is brought
from other Parts, as.being more ftrong and pungent. The Fields are
fpread vvith Sejam um  and Cotton Trees$  but the Trees grow lovv, yet
make a fair lhow. The Country abounds in Almonds and Olives; and
the Greeks  delight moft in the ripe Olive pickled, as we in the greeri.

G The

_II- . II *•* 11' I.

42 The Defcription of  Larifla and  Thcffaljr.

The Gourdes in the Hedges, with their large yellow Flowers, and
the many forts of green ThornSj and ever green Oaks, make the ways
pleafant.

The Ilex coccifera,  and Chermes-berry, or the Excretion, ferving for
dying, and making the Confedion of silchermes  grows plentifully in
thefe Countries ; and with this AEgeus  in old Time tinged the Sails,
which he prefented to Thefeus  upon his Voyage to Crete  ; ordering
him, if he overcame the- Minotaure,  and returned fortunately, to make
ufe of thefe Sails beautifully coloured in token of Vidory. Upon the
high Hills grow Afclepias  and Helleborus ; in the ftony Plains Carduus
globojus, Cyfius ,' Lavender, Marjoram •> Rofemary, and other fweet
fmelling Plants. The P lat anus  or Plain-tree grows moft fair, large
and well fpread in Macedonia,  aflbrding a refrefhing Ihade; fo that it
is lefs to be vvondred at, that Hippocrates  found Democriius  fitting un-
der a Plain-tree at Abdera  in Macedonia.  Some*of the feeds and tufts I
brought with me into England.

They ufe much Garlick in moft of their Diflies, and their Onions are
extraordinary, as large as two or three fair ones with us, and of a far
better tafte; being fharp, quick, and pleafantly pungent, and without
any offenfive fmell. Though I were no lover of Onions before, yet
I found thefe exceeding pleafant and comfortable to the Stomach. They
are ufed at moft Collations, and eaten with B ead in good quantity.
I asked a Chiaus,  then with us, who had travelled through moft of the
Turkijb  Dominions, whether he had any where met with fo good O-
nions, as thefe of Theflalj;  who anfwered me, that the Onions of
dEgypt  were better, which was the firft tirne I fenfibly underftood the
cxpreflion in Scripture, and ceafed to wonder,why the IJraelites  lingred
after the Onions of that Country.

'.Valainfana.  They ha ve a Fruit which they call P at le jan  or Melanzan,  between
a Melon and a Cucumber; out of which they make a very pleafant
Difh, by taking out the middle or feeds ofit, and filling.it up with the
meat of Sawfages, and then pare it, and boyl it.

Of the Agents of foreign Gountries, there attended on the Grand
Seignior,  the Refident of the Emperor of Germany ;  the Ambafiador of
Raguji-,  and another of Wallachia,  which are Ambaffadors of the Con-
fines; the Ambafladors for Trade, refiding about Conftantinople,  and
not obliged to keep clofe unto the Sultan. Larijfa  being full and pe-
ftered with People, the Emperors Refident defired of the Sultan  leave
to abide in fome Neighbour Town ; who bade him to make choice of
any Plače, or any Houfe he liked; which conceffion moved him to
caft his Eye upon Tornovo,  a large and pleafant City of Theffaly,  about
ten Miles Weft-ward from Larifia,  and feated near the Hills;
where moft of the Inhabitants are Chriftians, there being only three
Mofcheas,  but eighteen Churches of the Greeks;  whereof the chiefeft,
which I obferved, were thefe: the Cathedral Church of St. John,  the
Church of St. Demetrius, o^Cofmus  and Damianus,o^  the Nativity ofthe
blefled Virgin; of St. Elias  (this is the Habit of their Monks. ) (where
there is alfo an adjoyning Monaftery, feated on the fide of the Hill )
of St. Anaffajius,  of the tvvelve Apoftles, of St. Nicholas, ( with a Con-
vent alfo,) and of St. Antfronj  the Hermite. The Bilhop hereofis under
the Arch-bilhop of Lariffa.

And

’ ..... .. , t  JUH I. ...

The Defcription of  Lariffa and  Theflaly. 43

And I could not but take notice how thefe Eaftern Parts of Europe
abounded with Chriftians of the Greek  Church beyond my expečtati-
on, and fince they are thus to be found in many large Countries. In
Grzcia,  and the Greek  Iflands, in the Turkifb  Parts of Dalmatia  and
Croatia,  in Rafcia, Bofnia, Senia, Thracia, Sagora, Bulgaria, Sirfa,
Beffarahia^ Coffackia^ Podolia, Moldavia  and Wallachia^  and the vaft
Dominions of the Emperor of Ruffia,  they mufi: needs make a notable
part of Chriftendom, and put me more fenfibly in mind of an Expref-
fion ofa learned Writer. Ifwe fbould colleft and put■ together ali ^e Brerev/ood ,
Christian Regions in  Europe, which are of the  Greek Communion, and en^tries.
tompare tkem with the Parts profejfing the  Roman Religion in  Europe, we
fbouldfind the Greek far to exceed.

In the Weftern Parts of Europe , in many Churfhes the Fonts are
ilately, raifed high from the Ground, and to be afcended unto by di-
vers Steps,- fometimes covered with large Canopies, or with high Pa-
vilions handfomly carved a$d adorned. But in the Greek  Churches

G x the

The Defcription  o/Lariffa. «WThe(ialy.

_i„ . . .. . —.— --—-—  _
the Font or Bafon is generally made of plain Stone, and placed low
upon the Floor of the Church; and this is more convenient fbr them,
in their baptizing of Infants. For they put the Child into the Water,
and are notcontented with a meer fprinkling upon theFore-head ofit.
But the Prieft, after he hath blefled the Water, and dipped a Cruci-
fix into it three times, he takes the naked Child by one Arm, and fets
it into the Font up to the Waft, and with his other Hand laves the
Water thrice over its Head; and this hath been their Way of bapti¬
zing for many hundred Years. Nor couldthat otherwife have happen-
ed, vvhich is reported of the Emperor, Conjlantine  the fixth, Conftanti-
nus fextus, dicliu Copronjmus, quod Infans dum baptizaretur aquam Ja-
eram ventris Jblutione maculajjet.  The dipping of the naked Body in
Water being apt to move it. I faw fome of their Children baptized be-
fore the Navel ftring was fallen off.

The Fields about this Plače are planted vvith A z žw<?j, Cotton  and Se-
famum.  The Emperors Refident Illujlrijfimo Signore dl Cafa nova,  was
vvell accommodated here vvith a fair Houfe, and had thirty Tur Is  and
Chriftians in his Family, and tvvo Janizaries  attertding at the Gate,
good humored and fair conditioned Men, as could be vvilhed. The Re¬
fident vvas a Milane /?by birth, a grave and fober Perfon, fomevvhat
melancholy, much addičted to his Book and reading, but very civil
and courteous. He dined and fupped alone by himfelf; his Secreta-
ry, Interpreters, and others of his Family, had another Plače of repaft,
and vvere alvvays vvell provided, and ierved after the Turkijb  man-
ner.

The Ambaflador alfo of Ragufa  made choice of the farne Town; and
their followers often met each other, and many courteous falutes paf-
fed between them; but they were only by civil Meflages, for they ne-
ver met, upon a punttilio,  vvhich kept them afunder; the Raguja
Ambaflador pretending a right to take the firft plače, he being in the
quality of an Ambaflador, the other but of a Refident; although he
vvere much defpifed for it by the German^  and his Mafters looked up¬
on, but as Gentlemen of the Sette Bandiere,  or Perfons that vvere
and had been Subječts and Tributaries under feven Mafters, or Sove*
reign Princes.

I muft not forget Demetrius,  a Greek  Merchant of Tomovo,  in. vvhom
I thought I beheld the Humor of the old Greeks,  we vvere divers
times entertained at his Houfe with much generofity, and hearty free-
dom. He defired us to enjoy his Houfe freely, and to be merry after
the Mode of our ovvn Countries: and, asan efpecial favour, brought
his tvvo Daughters to bid us welcome: and we took the libcrty, after
the Cuftom of France, Holland  and Bngland,  to fahite them • they
vvere handfomly attired, after the manner of their Gountry ; their
Hair brayded and hanging dovvn their back; their Shooes or Sfip-
pers painted, their Natis coloured of a reddifh colour vvith Cna  or
Alcanna ; the Leaves of vvhich Plant, povvdred and fteeped in VVatef
and Wine, and layed a Night upon their Nails, leaves this Tinčhire,
and is much ufed in Turkej;  vvhere fome delight alfo to colour the
Mains and Tails of their Horfes. The Gracians  of Selo  alfo, vvho
wear Gloves (it being a' rare thing to fee any here j do colour their
Gloves alfo upon thofe Parts vvhich cover their Nails. C na  is a great
Commodity in the Turkifb  Dominions, brought out of AraJia  and

111  h  ,.l . . ■ ..-j a ■

The Defcription of  LarifTa and  ThcfTalv.


4$

EEgypt,  and to be bought in every good Town or Fair. I brought
a Pound of it Home u ith me, which loft not its tinčluring Qua-
lity.

The Grcecian  Countries, which I pafled, are extremely altered from
that State, whereof we read in, ancient Hiftory : _as having fuffered
fpoiling Incurfions from many Nations, and a fatal Congueft by the
Turks;  who utterly deftroyed many Towns and famous Places, and
changed the Names of moft; not leaving the old Appellatiohs unto
Rivers, which moft laftingly maintain their ancient Names. I paft
fed moft of the great Rivers in Macedonia,  the Axius v  Erlgonus  and
Aliacmon^  which have now Names of no afiinity unto them. The Ri-
ver Peneus,  fo famous in the old Poets, hath loft its name, together
with Apidanus., Enipeus,  and others, that run into it. The Turks  call
Larijfa, Jeni-Sahar;and Theflalj,. Comenolitari.

, ' ,.i r r n ।

mi.

SOME

--———

J 3.

kfi-7 . -«'r .. >•' "-I ■ -*-.--- -

4* _■_;__

SOME

OCCURRENCIES

AND

OBSERVATIONS

IN THIS

JOURNEY-

I T is no unpleafant fight to behold a new Scenfc of the World, and
unknown face of things, in Habits, Diet, Manners, Cuftoms and
Language. A Man feems to take leaveof pur World, when he
hath pafled a Days journey from Ral  or Comorra  : and, before he
comes to Buda,  feems to enter upon a new Stage of the World, quite
diflerent from that of thefe Weftern Countries: for he then bids adieu
to Hair on the Head, Bands, Cufls, Hats, Gloves, Beds, Beer: and en¬
ter« upon Habits, Manners and courfe of life; which with no great va-
riety, but under fome conformity, extend unto China,  and the utmofl;
Parts of Afia.

Though we were pretty well fecured by Authority for fafe Travel,
yct we were not vvithout fear of the Hufiars,  till we came to Effeck
Bridge, over the River Dravus  : for they are ačtive Perfons; and un-
derftanding the Language, will boldly range about for Booty, as far
as that noted Pafs; and, knowing ali By-ways, will rob and fpoil whom
they meet, efpecially the Turkijh  Subječfs.

Nor were we vvithout fear alfo of Gy/>Jies,  who are ftout and bold,
and fome ofthem have been noted Robbers. There are many of them
in Hun^aria, Servža, Bulgarža, Macedonia ; and fome I favv at Lariffa,
and other Parts of Thefialj.  They are in moft Towns, and live by la-
bour, and handy-craftTrades; many of them colour their Hands and
Feet of a reddifh colour, with Cna,  and think thofe Parts fuffer lelš
from the Cold thereby. Some Gypfy  Women colour the ends of their
Hair alfo. Though they be remotely difperfed, yet they are thought
to have had their beginning about VPallachia,  and the adjoining Parts,
many of them are conceived to be Spies unto the Z 'trk.  A little be¬
fore I čarne to Leopoldfiadt,  by Freijladt,  a grčat drove of them appear-
ed in thofe Parts; which the People fufpcčted to be Spies of the Fifi er
of Buda,  to take notice of the State of thofe Parts, and how that Fort
proceeded.

Travel-

The Defcription of  Lariffl and  ThdTahh

Traveliing from Belgrade  into Serviet,  we were in fome dan^er of
being robbed: for we perceived three Horfe-meh to ride very fail af<
ter us; and,  when they had over-taken us, they rode about us, wav-
ing their Lances, and difeharged their Piftols; but the Chiaus  perceiv-
ing them to be Spahies,  Ihmved his Feather, and faid to me, difehat^e
one of your Piftols at random, and let them knoiv, we are not unarni*
ed; at which they went ofl^ and we faw them rio more.

Caravanfards, Chans,  or Places of publick Lodging, btiilt by Bene-
fačtors, we liked not fo vvell as private Houfes; and therefore, being
but few in Company s  feldom lodged in them , for they are wide
Rooms, and we muli provide for our felves thetein / and fometimes
they are dangeroufly feated, fo that it was not fit toadventure our felves
therein, for fear of being robled ; for though Robberies be feverely
puniihed, y'et arethey frequently committed; and Gypfies  are well ver-
fed in that Trade; and therefore, in order to the fafety of Travellers
Drummers are appointed in dangerous Paflages; and in Mače doma,  in’
a narrow Pafs, I faw an old Man beating a Drum upon the ridge of a
Hill; whereby we had notice, that the Paflage wasclear and free from
Thieves.

We had the advaritage of good Ačdommodation for Travel, for par-
ting from Comora,  our Boat was towed by a Saick  of twenty fouf
Oars; Hitngarians  rowing upon one fide, and German s  on the other ;
till we came to Motcb,  the Frontier Tovvn, where we had a Turkijb
Convoy; who faftning our Boat to their Saick  with eighteen Oars,
rowed down the Danube,  we carrying the Eagle on our Flag, and the
Turks  the double Sword and Half-moon, and pafled by divers remark-
able Places to Buda,  from whence we had good Accommodatiori for
TraveUo Belgrade,  by open Chariots, with two, three or four Horfes
on breaft; which with great fpeed conveyed us through that pleafant
plain Country, and from thence through Servia,  and other Provinces
we were furnilhed with very good Horfes, which would travel at a
good rate twenty Miles in a Stage, and were very fure of foot; where-
of I had good experience, when in fome Parts we travelled over great
Hills, unegual and craggy Places, and over the bare Rocks. They
are very free, and therefore the Ownersof the Horfes took acceptions
at our Spurs, which are feldom ufed by them, and the Turks
none, but what we brought, and gave them. They are very traftable
and tender mouthed; and when we mounted or alighted would hnnd
fomly a PP ly themfelves to fuch Places ; and when vve walked fome
of them would follotv us Without leading. They have a lighter and lef-
fer Shooe tharl our Horfes; and when they have Ihod one foot, they
take up the foot againft it, and fetting the other upon a Block of three
inches high, they pare it.

They have very good Horfes in moft of thefe Countrys and very
flcet, but they never dock them, but their Tails grovv out at length
žnd fometimes they handfomly make them up : and in their Journevš
they often alight from them, and ftrongly puli at their Fore-top or
iorchead-lock, and think that doth much refrefh them whtch the
Strangers who travel here call Croatian  Provender.

The of T’mejwar  prefented Ragptzi  with a Horfe, which Ra^

gotzi  flightmg cut on the Horfe s Ears, Main and Tail, and fent hirft’

^8 The  Defeription  o/Larifla rWThdialy.

back again. This perhaps would have been thought an Ornament to
an Horfe in England : but the Bafia  took it as fuch an aflront to his,
that he never ceafed from ftirring up the Sultan,  and other Princes a-
gainft him, and never forgave the Injury, but by the help of the Turk,
1 ar tar, Emperor, Poles  and Ragotzis  own Country-men alfo, he
wrought at laft his Ruine.

For their feeding, they make no high Mangers or Racks, to puli
down thir Food; but, obferving the Rule of Nature, lay their Hay Iow
before them, and almoft even with the Ground; which in long neck-
ed Animals, may be the moft commodious way, they are lodged hard,
and often with little covering. At Lariffa,  where the Town was pe~
flered with Horfes and Camels: the Yards of the Houfes were full
of them, and Places made at the bottom of the Wall for their
Food.

In Caravanfards  the Horfes are tyed to a ringle, faftned unto the
fide of a long Plače, a little elevated, upon which the Travellers take
their reft ; and the Hay was laid a little below our feet, whereon the
Horfes feed.

They plow more with Oxen than Horfes, and efpecially with Buf*
felds ;  and have great variety of Ploughs and Carts; fome whereof I
could not but take notice of. in Macedonia,  made with Wheels, not
confifting of Spoaks, but of folid Wood, in the who!e piece; whether
fo contrived for ftrength, in thofe rocky Countries, where they muli
ftrike and force upon fuch inequalities, I cannot teli.

We were furnilhed with fmall things to oblige the People where we
pafled: and in Houfes where we entred, many would welcome the
Emperor’s Courier, and ask him what he had brought for them. We
pleafed them with Sciffors, Knives; and they would be content, if we
gave a Glove to one, and the fellow to another. To the Women we
gave fmall pieces of European  Coines; and I was much thanked by
a Bulgarian  Woman, for a bright cinq fols  piece, which fhe added to
the drefs of her Head, over her Fore-head, with other Coins flie had
there before; fome of them wearing Duckets of Gold, and Pearl, and
Stones of value upon that Part, which make no unhandfom lhow.

Being only careful to keep our felves from Thieves, we expečted
no fuch trouble, as we found from Wolves and Dogs, in our Journey
about the Mountains in Servia;  and efpecially in large Woods, we
were continually alarmed by Wolves, efpecially in the Night; when
they feldom ceafed to howl in great numbers, and not far from us ; fo
that wc werc forced to be folicitous in our Guard, and to keep clofo
together. And as the Wolves were troublefome, fo alfo the great
number of Dogs in thofe Parts were very offenfive to us. As foon as
we came near any Town, or left it, they came out, running at us,
barking and biting the Horfes Icgs, and in Houfes would be barking
and fnarling, fo that without a Cudgel it was not fafe going into the
Yard. And it feems impoflible, that thefe Tovvns Ihould be furprized
by the moft filent Enemy, without having good notice thereofby
Dogs: and fure, they are kept to this intent. For as foon as the Sun
fets they begin to bark ?and ceafe not till the Morning. The Town
of St. Malo s  in France  is alfo guarded fomewhat after this manner,where
they turn the Dogs out of the Town at Night,and are as fecure there-

Defeription of  Larifla and  Theifalp; 4

by, as if they had an army of Watchmen to guard them. Some fuch
trouble from Dogs I remernbred, that I had met with at the ftrong
Town of Komar a,  when I came into the Town about Midnight, vvhich
was fo full ofDogs fiercely barking and running upon us, tliat tofave
our felves, we werefain to take fhelter in the Corps de guard,  till a lodg-
ing was providcd for us.

I could not but pity the poor Chriftians, feeing under what fear
they lived in thofe Parts; whenlobferved them to make a way, as
foon as they perccived us coming towards them. In Macedotia  the
Men and Women would betake themfelvesinto the. Woods to avoid
us; and we took the pains fometimes torideaftcr them, to.undeceive r
them of their folty and needlefs Frights. ■

But that which moved me mofft was the: pitiful Spečtacle ofCap-
tives and Slavcs, which are often met with in, thofe Countries; toge-
ther with the variety of their hard F.ates and Accotints, how they iell
into that Condition ; fome by Treachery, fome by Cliance of War ;
others by Plagiary and Man-ftealing Tartars,  who plentifully furnifh
the Turkifb  Dominion ; fome fixed to one Mafter, others having been
fold unto many, and at diftant Places. But their Condition is moft
defperate, who are Slaves to the Court, and belongto the Grand Sei-
ignior-.  for they are never to be rcdeemed. Of which kind I met vvith
one at Egribugia  in Macedonia ,  attending ,a§ the Poft-houfe; who
though he had no hard Office; yet was extrcmely deječted upon this
misfortunc of Non-rtdemption. ' n t  ,

In Theffalj  alfo I met with one Sigifmund,  who had been a Slave, to
feveral Perfons, and in feveral Countries.? He was an Hungarian,  bom
at Gran,  and taken at the Battle of Baracban,  under Count Forcbati*
in the taft Wars; firft fervcd a Turk,  then fold to a Jew,  vvhoproved a
hard Mafter, then ta an Armenian ; under whpm he fo well acquitted
himfelf, that his Mafter gave him his freedQm,.qfld.he made a ihift to
come to Larilfa  where the Emperočs Refident entertained him. I was
very much pleafed with hisConv.erfation, being a worthy, honeft and
good natured Man ; and had maintained his Chriftianity in his feveral
Fortunes. He fpoke Hungarian, Solavoman, Tur kiji), Armenian and La¬
tin-.  ffiew’d me the Draughts of many Monaftejies, Abbies, Mofcheds r
and confiderable Buildings in Armenia-> Perfia.  and Turkej  : and I hope
by this time he is in his own Country.

The Turks,  who are well acquainted with the.Captivps of feveral Na-
tions, make obfervations of them : fo they fay, a Ruflian  is beft for the
Oar, a Georgian  makes a good Courtier 4  and an Albanian^  a good Coun-
fellor. A Turk  in our company, obferving a Georgian  Captive much
deječted at his Condition, encouraged him, and bid him be of gqod
cheer; telling him he might come to be a great Man, and one of the
beft in Turky.

The firft time I went to have a fight of the Grand Seignior, Ofmund
Chiaus  made no great hafte forward, and when I asked him the reafon,
he replied, I take no great pleafure to be too near him: and afterwards
when he talked of fome A«^k-’j,who had been ftrangled, and I added,
that in this refpečt lie lived more ltappily than any Bafia  : he laid,
fuch thiogs muft be patiently put up, ali our Lives are m the Sultan s
hands: in your pettyfKingdoms and States, Men are Tryed and Convi-

H eted,

$0

The Defiripticn of  Larifla and  TbcHalv.

čted, but our great Empire cannot be fo maintained, and if the Sultan
Ihould now fend for my Head I muft be content to lay it dcvvnpati-
ently, not asking wherefore[: and I remember his Words were that in
this Country we muft have, patienza fin a perder la tefia, e potpatien-
za,  patience even to the lofs of our Heads, and patience after
that.

We had frequent Memento^s of Mortality, by Graves and Sepui¬
chres, as we paffed ; efpecially near Belgrade.  For the Turks  are com-
monly buried by the High-ways: yet their Tombs are not ordinarily
fplendid, confifting only of a Stone erečted at the Head and at the
Feet: yet fome fet up Stones of two, three or four yards high. Some
have a Turbant carved upon the Stone, at the Head ; and others
fet up tvvo Pillars of Stone; fome proceed farther, and raife
the Sepuichres, as vvith us, and afterwards plače two Pillars upon
them, one at the Head, and another at the Feet. At Scopia  I faw
fair ones, after this manner, and two Sepuichres in one of them : but
the beft way I obferved in thefe Parts, is by building a Pavillion fup-
ported by four Pillars. As we trave! led to the South from Jagodna  in
Servia,  I faw upon the fide of a Hill, a large Turkijh  Tomb, about
four yatds long, and a fquare plače covered by it, which the Cfriaus
told me was the Tomb of one of their Saints, and accordingly perform-
ed his Devotions at it, and at other Places: on ,Thurfday Nights and
Friday’s, I obferved the Women to vifit the Sepuichres, and pay their
Devotions at the Tombs of their dead Friends.

This Gigantick Saint that lay buried here, was certainly a fit Man
in his time to wield the holy Club, with ,which the Turk  does propo-
gate his Religion and Dominion, and if he were as long as his Tomb,
he was as formidable a Perfon as any of the Patagonian  Gyants painted
upon the Southern Part of divers Maps of America  with long Arrovvs
in their Throats. I muft confefs it feems ftrange to me that the Sta¬
tute of Man Ihould be extended to that height. Mr. Wood,  an ingeni-
ous Perfon, who hath made very fair and accurate Maps ofthe Streights
of Magellan,  the Iflands therein, and the Coaft from the River of P late
to Baldivia,  in the South-fea, told me that he had feen divers Graves
in the Southern Parts of America  near four yards long, which lurpri-
zed him the more, becaufe he had never feen any American  that was
two yards high, and therefore he opencd on® of thefe long Sepuichres
from one end to the other, and found in it a Man and a VVoman, fo
placed, that the Wbmans head lay at the Mans feet, and fo might rea-
fbnably require a Tomb of near that length.

But to return into the rode for our diverfion, we fometimes met
with Turkifi  Fairs, which are ordinarily kept in fome large ground,
encloled and divided into Streets and Pafles, according to the variety
of Commodities to be fold, vvhere a Man may recreate himfelf with
multiplicity of Fripperies, and things diflerent from thofe of our Parts,
and cannot want variety of Mufick ; which, though but mean, proved
fome diverfion unto us. The firft Fair we met with, was at Leficoa  or
Lefcovia,  upon the River Liperizza  in Servia.

It was no fmall comfort to us, to find the Country fo free from the
Plague, which we only met wjth at Preftina,  a large Town, on part of
the Plains of Cofibva,  when We came into that Plače, we were enter-
taihed in a very good Houfe, and brought into a large Room, well ac-
commodated

A Journejf  /rm Vienna /o Larina. / . $ i

commodated with Carpets and other Ornaments; where we found a
Turk  lying fick of the Plague. The Chiaus,  after the Turkijh  Humor,
made nothing of it; but fome others werenot id contented; and there-
fore we removed and travelled in the Night, ti!I we came to a Gypr
fes  Houfe amongft the Hills, whcre we were, well accommoda-
ted. . : 1

The Tur k s  were much pleafed to fec me write; when I came into a* ■
ny Houfe, I pulled out my Paper-book to fot down what I obierved ;
vvhich when they perceived, they would come about me, taking no¬
tice of the Paper, and binding of the Book, wondring to fceme write
ib faft, and with fuch a Pen, which was made. of a Goofe Quill, they
ufually writing with a hard Reed,cut like our Pens. Many earry about
them an handfome brafs Ink-horn, which they hang by their fides;
their Ink is good, Paper fmooth and polilhed; whereon they will write
very fairly, as I have to fhow in the Sultan s  Palš, which I brought home
with me.

When I found occafion, I ufed to look upon fome Maps, whk?h I
carried with me: whereat Ofman Chiaus  fmilcd, iaying, there is no de-
pcnding upon Maps 5 they fet down only great Towns, and often falfe-
ly. Cbiaufes  are able to make the beft Maps, whe» pafs their Days
in travelling Countries; and take notice of ali Places, and know their
Turkijh  Names; and in many particulars I found fome truth in his
Words; for the Maps of Huugary  are not exačt ; thoft of Servia, Bul-
garia, Macedonia  and Thejfaly  very imperfečt In upper Hungary,
imny Towns are omitted, many illplaced; in the fower alfo not a
few. The Danuhe  fcems to feteh about too much to the South-weft,
before the Tihifats  enters into it. In Servi#, Hijfargick  is placcd too
far from the Danule,  which runnes by it. I find no mention of Pro-
cupra  or 7Jrete o op,  of Lefcoa  or Lefceuia,  conflderable Towns; the lafl
upon the winding Rivcr Liperizza : nor of Kapi akt p  or Tigris  Town,
in Macedonia ; norof Kupruly  or Bridge-Tcmn',  norof Vtam<t,tyrtyc->
Cemonava, Ecciffo VerlenP,  nor of the Lake Petnski  and Ofr«^ r  not
farfrom it; nor of Egribugia, Sariggiole, Sarvizza-,  nor of theRiver
Injecara  near it; nor of Aleffon,  nor Tomova  in Thejfalj,  a handfome
conflderable City. And he that travels in MacedauM,  will never be a-
ble to reconcile the Pofitions of Rivers and Towns to their ufoal Pe-
fcriptions in Maps, although not long agp there have been large orjes
publiihed of Greece.

I took great pleafure to converfe with Chiaufes,  efpecially if they
were of any years; for they fpeak divers Languages, and have foen
much of the World; are commonly good Company, and able to give
account of many things. Ofman Cbiaus,  who travelled wjth u$, was a-
bout fifty years of Age, fpakc Turkijh, Sclavonlan  and Italian : a ftont
and faithful honeft Perfon, very cleanly and neat .• he told me he had
travelled the greateft partof Turky,  and growingold feated himfolf
in Buda,  as a Chiaus  to the Vifter *,  which pfec? pleafed him bettqr
than any in Turky.  he took a civil farewel of me. at Buda,  bringingme
outof the Gates, and vvith many a Dios  wiflud me a happy return
into my Country;and indeed,in allmy Journcy I met with fair
and civil ulage; when I came into any Room where the Turkp  were
fittiog, they vvould falute me, andtouching my band, require me to'

H x fc

The Defcriftitin  of LarifTa  and  Thcilalr.

fitdovrn with them, thcn offer me Coffee,  and fometimes Tabaco,  and
at Meals invite me to eat heartily; only in fome places, the Boys, and
meaner fort of People would call me Safbtlu gaur,  or haired Infidel.
And a Jen  at Lariffa,  whom Ihad employed to buy fome little things
for me; and I faying, they were too dear, gave me fome ill Language,
which fo difpleafed fome that were by, that if the Grand Seignior  had
not been in perfon in the Town, they would have taught him other
manners.

The Turks  took much Tabaco in the Countries which I pafled, and
many carried little bags thereof by their fides, which they take in pipes
of an ell long, made of an hard reed, and an earthen head at the end,-
laying one end on the ground, and holding the other in their moutheg.
I did feldom take any; but to comply with their kindnefs, I would not
refufe it; and by reafon of the length of the pipe, it was cool, and lefs
difturbing ; they take it alfo often in fnuff. Seignior Gabriel,  the Erhpe«
rofs Courier would teli them many ftories; and while he was fpeaking,
they would come about him, and liften very attentively ; and he would
puli out his fnuffbox, and put fnuff-powder into their nofes, vvhich
they would take very kindly. They would be always gazing upon
the Emperors Armes cut ina Stone, which he wore upon his breaft;
whereupon he would take occafion to magnifie the Emperor, defcribe
fhcmultitude of Provinces fubječt unto him; andany thing that might
confer unto his honour, whereof they would take great notice.

I liked well the neatnefs and cleanlinefs of the Turk s,  whieh we con-
verfed with, and their walhing of their feet, hands, and faees, though
they had fome purifying conceit thereof; while we traveiled, the
Chiatu,  at the fight of a Spring, or clear water, would often alight,
and wafh himfelf; and every morning was very eurious in winding
up his Turbant, and combing of his beard; and would ask me, whe-
ther it were well 'done. When they go to the houfe of office ,
they carry a pitcher of water with them; they affedt privacy
when they make water; vvhich they perform, refting upon one knee,
and ftretching out the other leg. Walking in Lariffa  with the Cbiaiis,
the Streets being narrow, and full of people, and remembring the fad
fate of Vincent le Blanc,  who loft his liberty, befides other mislortunes,
for pifling over a Turkifb  Saints head, who lay interred in a plače, he
little fufpcded ; I asked him, where I might make water vvithout of-
fence,who anfwered me grumblingly at firft,but aftervvards dire&ed me
to a plače, and ftood at a little diftance, to fecure me from any affront.
And at another time while I traveiled in an open Calefche  or Chariot
by Moon-light, I made water over one fide thereof, to avoid being
troublefome to the reft in ingaging them to ftay for me till I alighted
and wentafide or retard their journey in the night; but one who layed
down by my feet took notice of it to me with a great dealofregret, and
and though out of the refpečt he profefled to bear me, he was refolved
not to divulge it. Yet he wondered I would venture the lofs of my
credit in fuch a matter.

Some experience we had in our return of the Turkifb  Juhice, at E-
gribugia,  in Macedonia  ; for travelling from Sariggiole  over high Rocks,
we met with a Turkijh Aga  before our arrival; who, having a nume-
rous train, had taken up ali the Horfes at Egribugia ; fo that we could
not be readily fupplied ; and therefore intended to ride our Horfes
another

The Vefcrijhibntf^ $3

another Stage, the vvay laying now in the Plain, and our Horfes ftrohg
and able , we fet fortvard on the lame Horfes ,- btlt before we were
got out of the Town, we were ftopped, and carried before the Cadih,
by the Poft-mafter; whoalledged agairjft us, that we were injuriouS
unto him, ih that we paiTed by, without taking Horfes at his Houfe ;
he being allowed by the Grand Seignior,  whofe Servant he is, fo much
for every Horfe he provides; and that none was fo provide Horfes in
that plače, but himfelf; fo  that he was damnified and had no profit
coming unto him.

The Cadih  therefore confidering of the bufinefs, and fitting crofs-
legged upon his Carpet, and leaning his. elbovv upon four or five Folio
Books, which he had by him fcommanded his Servants to fill every
one a difh of Coffee-  The Chiaiu,  in our defence, urged, that we had
bufinefs of concern; that we had the Chaymacham’s  Letters; and were
•employed from the Granci Seignior  to the Emperor of Germanj',  thathe
himfelf was a Chiaiu  to theAT/fer of Buda,  uhither he was tocondučt
jUs, and that no man could or ought to Hop him; whereupon the Ca¬
dih  faid, the Chiaiu  mufi not be hindred in his journey, nor the Poft-
mafter be unconfidered; and fo prefently called for the Poft-mafters
Book, and with his pen, made of a reed, fet down a Sultanine  to be al-
lowed him in his accounts to the Tefterdar,  and bade us good morrow,
and wifhed us a good journey.

In the European Turkifh  Dominions, which I pafled, I could not but
take notice of the great number of Chriftians; for, excepting great Ci-
ties, or where the Souldierp  refide, they are generally ali Chriftians ;
whereof the great body is of the Greek  Church, who live patiently un-
der the Turkijh  toleration. If there fliould happen any confiderable
commotion among the Turkifh  powers; it is highly probable, they
would fit ftill, and be little ačtive; and if any Forces of the Latine
Church fliould attem.pt the Conquefts of thefe £arts, in ali probability
they would find very little afliftance from them, and I fear they would
rather adhereunto their Turkifh  Mafters.

Though Auguftiu  thought it a point of wifdom, to put fome limit
unto the Roman  Empire, yet I do not find the Turks  are of his judg- -
ment, but ftill endeavour to enlarge their Dominions, and when Iconfi-
der that people, their hardy education, fober courfe of life, and obe-
dience to their Superiors ; that no Baffa  can eafily intend a revolt, but
fome others will difcover him, in hope to obtain his plače,or fome great
preferment; and that they fo punčtually obferve the duty of their
Čharges; I am apt to think, or fear, if he, who puts bounds to the
Sea, and faith hither thou flialt come and no further, doth not, out of
his great mercy, put a ftop to their further incurfions, they may pro-
bably obtain and conferve a far larger Empire, and even ali Europe,  un¬
to the Weftern Ocean.

Certain it is that they are unfatisfied with their prefent bounds and
look beyond Hungaria,  and I have heard them fay, we muft in due
time come to Beatch,  for fo thev call Eienna,  and try our fortunes
'Sgain. ■ '- - •--—-.

At this day the Star and Half-moon are atove the Crofs, upon the
Steeple of the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen,  in the Emperor of Ger-
many  his Imperia’ City of Vienna  .- and it grieved me to  fee in ali the
Confines a fort of Crofs tfhich our Heralds do not dream of, vvhich is

a

54 4 Jottrneji from  Vienna to  Lanffa.

aCrofs Lunated after tbis manner, wbcreby the Inhabitantsas they te*
ftifie thcir Chriftianity, fp thcy acknovvkdge the Turkifh  power.

A Crofs with Half-moons fet over the Churches in the Country
which pa\ eth contribution to the Turks  in Hungary.

The Star and Half-moon upon the Steeple of St Ste^hens  Church
at Fiettna.


55

AND FROM THENCE TO

B EIN G at Komar 4, and having iatisfied my curiofity as far that
way as the Chriftian Dominions extended. I purfued my in-
tention of leeing the Copper, Silver and Gold Mineš in Hun-
gary;  and being unwilling to return again to Presburg  fo far
about to get into the road towards them; I attempted a nearer paflage,
although there be few who go that vvay. And thercfore I travelled
along the North fhoar of the Ifland of Sahut^tAl  I came to the Con-
fltiehce of the River Waag  and Danube,  and then pafled over to a For-
tification raifed fince the lafl War, called Gutta ;  it lies in a Mariih
grourid between a branch of the Danube,  the Waag,  and the Snartz,
within a mile of Newheufel ; which ue plainly faw from the Steepleof
the Church at Gutta.,  and could diftinguifli the buildings within it; as
the Baffas  Palače formerly belonging to the Arch Bifhop of Presburg;
The Church in the middle of the Town; the Tower to the J/^<?,and
others. But this neariiefs to tieivheufel  proved not only dangerous,
but dcflručtive to it in the beginning of the year i68y. after that the
Tur k s  had fent great Recruits from Buda&rt  the Count of Zabor  having
burnt the Suburbs of Neivheujel  and taken feveral Prifoners; the Turks
to rcvenge it madean escurfion, and burnt the Town of Gutta,  and
put

A Journey from  Kom  ara to tbeMine-Tovns in  Hungar/.

put ali the Inhabitants to the Sword. Their Boats here are of one piece
ofwood,in which notwithftanding,they venture themfelves,and pafs the
greateft Rivers with them; in «ns Fort were i p men commanded
by Captain Matthjas Fjuhvurdt.  From hence by Forchatz  we came
to Schellu^h&ie.  there isanother Fort bujft to hinder the Tarks  from
pafling the Rivar IThcg, for hereabouts t\^-Tqrtars  broke over, »burned
and ruined the whole Country about in the late war, in fuch manner,
that it remains Rili defolate j at fialf a miles diftance from this plače is
a hole in the Earth which burns like Solfaterra  by Najdeš.  From hence
we went to Schinta  alargeFort andbuilt Ion g fin ce to"command the
River and the Country about. There is a Tower in the middle, four
Baftions anrfm’any good piečes of Carihon; At the entrance there
hanges a great Rib, a Thigh-bone and a Tooth, vvhich I judged to be -
of an Elephant, having feen the Skeleton  of one : and alfo fuch bones
as theli hang upTfcgfore tke Emperor’s Houfcat Laxaml>ourg ;  thofe
bearing the name 3f the bones of a great Heathen Virgin ; and thefe
of a Gyaht. We came after\Vards to Leopblftadt;  a noble regular For-
tification with fix Baftions, where the Young Count de Souches  com¬
manded, to whom I delivered Letters, and received many favours from
him. Aftervtardsl pafted the River and came to Frelfiat,  alarge fair
Town but lately burhed by th'e Turk.  Count Fcrchatz  hath a handfome
Caftle here, and a large Houfe in the Town, vvhereof I took the
draught.

The Lutherans  had alfo a School or CoUege here, but ruined with
the reft of the Buildings. They are Tributaries to the Turk,  paying
yearly eight Hungarifche,  almoft four pence of our money, for every
head, vvhether of Man, Woman, Children, Sheep, Oxen, or Horfes.
The Children ate educated to hardlhip, and the Women feldom marry
tvvice. They bathe much, and ufe fweating naked in Stoves, holding
their feet in warm water. Theyufe Cupping-glaftes alfo very much
and fcarifidations. In the Convent of the Francifcans  were onely
twelve £riars left; and the Roman  Chriftians in thefe parts have few
other Priefts but Monks.

Two Hungariah  miles from Friefiat  lies Banca,  where in a low
ground near the River are fiftecn Baths; into three of vvhich the River-
water is riow entred,the River Waag  continually vvearing out its banks
by reafon of its rapid courfe. Twenty years fince there were alfo hot
Baths on the other fide of the River, but are now covered with the
cold ftream. Thefe Baths leave a white fediment in ali places, and
tinge Copper and Silver immediately as black ''as Ink : Hard by thefe
Baths is a Quarry of Stone, and fome Veins ofChalk, vvhich were ve-
ry pleafing to behold, the Chalk being of ali colours except green, and
the colours fo finely mixed, as a painting or marble Paper doth not
equal it.

We being here upon the 18 of Mar oh,  and the vveather very cold,
had no thoughts of bathing in fo open a plače; though in lome of
them we faw Women and Children; and the Huffar  who drove our
Chariot hither, after we had fupped, Went out, and in a very hard froft
pulled offhis clothes in the open Meadovv at midnight,and bathed him-
felf in one of thofe Baths.

March

„1. J^oate c ut o ut o C one Irce muc h ulee) m jCim/ciria. C^roaticc. Ca/'mo la./Selanonm.

A  Journej  from  Komara  to  the  Mine-Totvns  in  Hungary,

March  the zi. GraffSouches  fent us German  Mufqueteers to convoy
us through the Contribution Country, and defend us in our travels • wc
pafled by Ri/nich,  and a Caftle at Docatzi,  belonging to Baron Berrint,
and čarne atnight toTopolchan  upon the River N it ra,  where the Town
with the Church were burnt in the laft war, and had not well recover-
ed it felf again. A mile from hence at Bellitz  are alfo hbt Baths. The
next day by Clefih,  the Inhabitants of vvhich plače were ali carried a-
way Captives in the laft Wars ; and through a great wood by Hoch-
w/ j e  vvhere the Inhabitants were moft German s.  We came to Serno-
»z?z feated upon the River Gran,  where is a Caftle upon a Rock, but
the Tovvn is Tributary to the Tv.rks,  and they often vifit it. March z%.
We pafled the River Gran  early in the Morning, and came among the
Hills to Hodrytz,  by vvhich Town runs a fwift ftream very fervi-
ceable to them, which helps to move their Engines employed in the
pounding, wafhing and melting of the Silver-ore. We travelled over
a Mountain called Hell,  and came to Sckemnitz,  the greateft of the
Mine-tovvns in Hungary : and where great quantity of Silver-ore is eve-
ry day digged. The^f own is well built, hath three fair Churches in
it, the greateft part of the Inhabitants are Lutherans. There are alfo
three Caftlcs here ; the old Caftle in the Tovvn, where there is Wind-
Mufick at fix every morning, and at tvvelve, and at fix at night. z.
The New- Caftle, built by a Lady, who removed the Gibbet from this
Hill, and left a fair building in lieu of it. The third is on a high peak,
vvhere there is a continual vvatch kept to difcover the approach of the
Turks,  who immediately give notice of it by the ihooting off a Culve-
rin. The Streets lie up and down Hill, the Country hereabouts being
ali very uneven.

There are very many Mineš here, and many adventurers are induced
to try their fortunes by the good fuccefs fo many have had: for if they
find a Vein of Ore in any reafonable time, before they have quite fpent
their Stocks in digging, they may probably expečt great profit.

Thefe Mineš amongft others are very remarkable; the Windfchacht-
Mine,  the Trinity,  that of St. Benedift,  St. John, Matthias,  and one
called the three Kings  ,* but the chiefeft and moft vvrought are thofe
of Windjchacht  and Trinity. Trinity-Mine  is feventy fathoms deep,
built and kept open with under-work at a great expence, much of this
Mine being in an earthy foil. The Ore -of it is much efteemed, and
is commonly of a black colour covered with a vvhite Earth or CIay ;
Ib that the ftreams where they work it, become milky and whitifli,and
is that fubftance I fuppofe vvhich is called Lac Lame,  or the Milk of the
Moon or Silver. Divers Veins in this Mine lieNorth, and otherrich
Veins run to the North-Eaft. When tvvo Veins crolš one another they
efteem it fortunate; fo that ali Veins of Ore keep not the lame point
even in the farne Mine, vvhich vvould be an help to difcover them; but
they have no certain way to know either which vvay they run,or where
they are, till by induftrious perfevering in the labour of the Mineš they
are at laft found out. They ufe not the Virgula. divina,  or forked
Hazel-ftick to direčt them, having no opinion of it (as I obferved thcy
had at the Silver Mine at Frilur^  in Mifnia,  where I alfo learned the ufe
thereof) but dig alwayes as the Adventurers defire. They Ihew’d me
one plače, vvhich they had digged ftreight on fix years, when the Ore
wis but tvvo fathoms diftant from the plače vvhere they firft began:

I and

A Journey from  Komata to the Mine-Towns in  Hungary.
and in another plače they digged twelve years outright, and atlaft
found a Vein vvhich in a fliort time paid their charges. I was in many
parts of this Mine, and went fo far, that at length I pailed quite under a
Hill, and came out on the other fide.

In Windfchacbt-Mine  vvherein I alfo defcended as far as the vvater
would then permit me, defctnding thrice almoft perpendicularly about
three hundred large fteps or ftairs of a Ladder. I obferved a large
Wheel deep in the Earth, of tvvelve yards Diameter; turned about by
the fall of fubterraneous Waters. This Wheel moves Engines Vvhich
pum p out the vvater from the bottom of the Mine, up to the cavity
vvherein this Wheel is placcd. The water vvhich moves this Wheel
falls no lovver into the Mine, but pafles away through a Cuniculus
made on purpofe, through vvhich both this and the other water pump-
ed from the deepeft parts of the Mine, do run out together at the foot
of an Hill. Befides this Wheel there is another above ground vvhich
lies Horizontally, drawn about continually by tvvelve Horfes, vvhich
ferves alfo to pump out much of the water of this Mine; about ali the
Works whereof, I was informed that there vvereno lefš than two thou-
fand men employed.

In fome places of the Mine it is very cold, and in others fo hot, that
to refrelh my felf I was conftrained to go vvith my breaft naked ; al-
though I had only linen Cloths on. Where they work it is always
hot, fo  that they labour naked for eight hours if they are able,and then
reft eight hours more.

In this Mine they flievved me a plače vvhere five men and a Perfon
of quality were deftroyed by aDamp, for which reafon they have now
placed a Tube there, the like they plače over ali doors, and over ali
ways vvhere they dig right on for a great fpace, and have no pafiage
through ; whereby the air is let in, let out, or carried round, and the
Miners under-ground ventilated vvith it.

The blackilh Ore is efleemed the beft ; much of it hath a mixture
of a Ihining yellow fubftance or Marchajite,  which if it be not in too
great a quantity is not unvvelcome, by reafon that it difpofes the Ore
to fluidity, or renders it more eafie to be melted ; but if it be in too
great a proportion, they are of opinion, that it preys upon the Silver in
the Mine; and in the Furnace carries it away vvhile it melts, by
over-volatilizing it; and therefore they term it a Robber, as a fubftance
vvhich fpoyls and takes away the richnefs of the Ore.

There is often found a red fubftance vvhich grovvs to the Ore called
Cinnalar  of Silver, vvhich being grinded vvith Oyl makes a Vermilion
equal to, ifnot furpaffing the Cinnalar  made by fublimation.

There are alfo found in thefe Mineš, Cnftals, Avnethjfts,  and Ame-
thyftine  mixtures in the clefts of the Rocks, and fometimes nigh or
joyned to the Ore ; as alfo Vitriol naturally cryftal|iz’d in the Earth in
divers of thefe Mineš; and particularly in a Mine in Paradife Hill',
vvhich then belonged to Mr. Jacobus SclvoiMa,  an Apothecary, at
vvhofe Houfe I lodged, and who prefented me vvith many curious Mine-
rals.

And as there is great yariety in the Silver-Ore, as to its mixtures vvith
Earth,Stones, Marcbajite, Cinnahar, Vitriol,f$ c.  So alfo in its richnefs,-
fome holding a great proportion of Silver in refped of others. An hun¬
dred pound vveight of Ore fometimes yields but half an ounce or an
ounce

A Journey from  Komata to the Mineffotfns.in Hungarv. gjf
of Silver ; fometimes two ounces, three.fouf, five, and unto twenty
ounces ; what is richer is very tare, yet fome hath Leen fouhd to hold
half Silver, and I have feen of it Ib rich, as to be čut wtth a knife.

A Specimen of each fort of Ore vvhich they dig out of the Miries is
cafried up n its firft being difcovered to an Officer ealled the Erobie-
rer,  who is to provc and judge of its richnelš; which he doth in this
manner. Of ali forts of Ores he takes the farne quantity, the Ores
being firft dryed, burned, and pounded, he gives an equal proportion
of lead to ali, melts and purifies them, and then by exačt Scales
takes notice of the proportion betvveen the Ore and Metal contained in
it, and reports it to thofe emploved in the great melting Furnaces; who
accordingly add or diminifh the quantities of thofe fubftances vvhich
are to be mixed with the Ores to melt them in the melting Furnace ;
as for example, to an hundred centen or ten thoufand pound vveight of
Silver-Ore, vvhich holds above tvvo ounces and an halfof Silver in an
hundred pounds weight, thcy add forty centen of Leich,  vvhich is Ore
pounded and walhed ; tvvo hundred centen of fren-Stone, vvhich is not
Iron-Ore, but a Stone found in thofe Hills, df vvhich the liver colour-
ed is the beft. A q antity of Azr, or a fort of Pjrites^  according as the
Ore is mixed vvith Marchajite^  and of Slačken  as much as they pleafe.
This laft is the fcum or cake taken ofT from the top of the Pan into
which the Metds run, and is a fubftance made out of the former men-
tioned, by fufion.

Whatfoever is melted in the melting Furnace, is let out through an
hole at the bottom thereof into the pan, vvhičh is placed in the Earth
before it; and thus expofed, it immediately acguires an hard fcum, drofs,
loaf or cake, vvhich being continually taken avvav, the Metal remain-
ing becomes purer; to  vvhich is added lead vvhich carrietll ali the Sil¬
ver dovvn to the bottom vvith it, and after fome time the melted Metal
is taken out; then being again melted in the drivlng 1 urnace’,- the
lead or vvhat elfe remains mixt vvith the Silver 'is driven dff’by the
blowing of tvvo great bellovvs; and runs over from the melted Silver
in form of Litharge.  That wliio 7 a firft čomes over,fis the vvhite and
that vvhich comes laft, being lon^čr in the fire, is the red, not that rt is
Litharge of Gold, both being driften off from the f me Metal.

Moft of the Schemnitz  Silver-G»re holds fome Gold vvhich they fepa¬
rate by melting the Silver, then granulating it, and aftervvards by dif-
folving it in Aqua fortis  made out of a peculiar Vitriol prepared at
Chremnitz,  vvhereby the Gold is left at the bottom and is aftervvards
melted; the Aqua fortis  is diftilied from the Silver, and ferves again
for ufe. But it vvould be too tedious to deferibe ali the vvorks of thefe
Mineš vvhich do well deferve as accurate Defcriptionš as thofe df Miji
nia,  and other parts, of vvhich Agricola  hath vvritten kirgelv, and very
vvcll in his Books De re Metallica & defojftlibus. Lerijs  alfb ofMirieral
vvorks is efteemed, and Lazar us Er ker  hath handfomblV defčr-iiedthe
principal Ores and Mineral bodies. But certainiy- thefe are few plaees
in the World to be compared vvith this, vvhere Art-and Nature ftrive to
ihow their utmoft force and riches. "

They work in this Country much after the manrifer they didjn the
Emperour Rudolphus  -his time; who vfhs a great undertaker and en-
courager of Mine-works; but, manyef their InftiunierftSand Efiginos
are much improved.

I Notwith-

A Journey  /row Komata to tbeMine-Tovpns  in  HungarV.

Notvvithftanding the great quantity of Silver made every week at
Schemnitz  and carried away in Carts, I found fome difficulty to pro-
cure the leaft piece there, and fcarce any one in the Town could fur-
nifh me with any that was pure, for the Money of the Country is mix-
ed with abpve halfCopper; and being defirous to fee what alteration
divers of thofe Mineral-vvaters in that Country, would make upon
Metals, for vvant of other Silver, I was forced to make ufe of filver
Crofles, Crucifixes and Medals, which I borrovved.

Near unto Schemnitz,  where old Schemnitz  ftood, is an high Perpen-
dicular Rock, part ofvvhich from the bottom to the top is naturally
tindured with fhining fair blue, fome green, and fpots of yelloW in it.
At firft fight I was much furprized with the beauty of it, and could fan-
fy nothing like it, but a whole Rock of polifhed Lapi s Lazuli : and I
have heard from a Spaniard,  who lived long in the Wejl-Indies,  that
there is alfo a Rock like this nigh to the Silver Mineš in Peru.

At Glafs-Hitten,  an Hunparian  mile, or about feven Englifh  miles
from Schemnitz,  there was formerly a rich Gold Mine, but it is loft,
no man knovving vvhere the entrance was fince the time that Bethlem
Gabor  Prnice of Tranfjlvania  over-ran that Country, and the Inhabi-
tants fled away. The Owner notwithftanding left fome marks and di-
rečtions whereby they might difcovcr ir, with the Figures of his In-
ftruments upon the Barks of Trees j which Inftruments tbey have
already found by digging in the Earth, and thus much is intimated to
them, that where they find a Stone, on which a Face is carved, they
are at it,and are onely to remove part of a Rock with which the Ovvner
ftopped up the Mine.

This plače is much frequented by reafon of its natural hot Baths, of
which there are five very convenient, with handfome defcents into
them, and covered over with large high Roots. The Springs are ve-
ry clear, the Sediment is red and green, the wood and feats of the Baths
uijder water are incruftated with a ftony fubftance, and Silver is gil-
ded by being left in them: But the moft remarkable of thefe Baths, is
that which iscalledthe fvveating Batb whofe hot Springs drain througli
an Hill, and fall into a Bath built to rt :eive them ; at one end of vvhičh
by afcending I vvent into a Cave whk j is made a noble Stove by the
heatof thefe Therma,  andfo ordered with Seats, thatevery one who
fits in it, either by choofing an higher or a lower feat, may regulatc his
fvveating, or enjoy what degree of heat he defires. This Cave, as alfo
the fidesef the Bath are covered by the continual dropping of thofe hot
Springs, with a red, white, and green fubftance, very fair and pleafing to
the eye.

Bathing my felf in the largeft of thefe Baths when there were a great
many Men and Women in it; an adive man to divert the Company,
had privately conveyed himfelfto the top of the Houfe which covered
the Bath, and on a fuddain caft himfelf down into the water, and by
taking hold upon the bottom of the Seats kept himfelf under water
for fome time ; aftervvards a Serpent coming into the Bath through
a channtl which 'conveyed the water into it, many of the women
were afrighted at it. He ftill to continue his fervice and good vvill
tp the Company, was the firft that vvould encounter it, and deliver
the Damfels; which he did in a fliort time, fo fuccefcfully, that he
caught the Serpent in both his hands, and holding it out of the vvater,

I put

A ]otirneyfrom  Komara to the Mine-Tovpns in  Hungarv. 6 1
put it into his mouth, and bit the head off Being taken with his good
humour, 1 aftervvards fent for him into the Stove ; and finding
that he had been employed in the Mineš, I asked him among other
things, whether he had feen any natural Vitriol, and vvhere, in the
Mineš, cryftalližed in lumps, pure and ready forule, which he laidhe
had in many places, but in the greateft quantity, in a Mine now given
over; by reafon that in fome places the Earth was fallen in,which was
near to Schemnitz :  And accordingly two or three days after he came
to fee me at Schemnitz y  brought me Lamps and Mine-mens habits for
my felf, and two Friends more; and we went with him under ground,
til! I came where he fliew’d me great quantities of it, much to my fatis-
fačtion: the Vitriol there fhooting upon the Stones and Earth, upon
the floor and fides of the pafiages, as it doth by art in the Pans, and
about the flicks, not hanging from the top, as in many other places I
have feen it, like to Ice-icles.

Glafs-Hitten  belonges to the Cpunt of Lippey,  of vvhofe Family was
the Learned Pohcarpus Procopius Bocanus,who  was fent fome time paft
by the Arch-Bifnop of Presburg  to give an account of the rarities of
thefe Countries; but his death hindrcd the publiflhing of his obferva-
tions.

Eifenbach  about four Englifb  miles from Glafs-Hitten,  and five or fix
from Schemnitz,  hath alfo hot Baths; the Sediment of which is red,
and turnes intoftone ; fo that I brought away with me pieces ofit of
five or fix inches diameter: I took alfo a large piece of this water petre-
fied as it fell from a fpout in which the waves of it are to be feen; but
the fpout it felf, although made of Wood, was not at ali changed, as ly-
ing under it. However, thofe Trees with which they built the fides of
the Bath were fo petrefied, that thofe which lay next above the water,
were intirely turned into Stone. And it was not unpleafant to ob-
ferve how nature did here afEift art, and out of the body of a Firr-Tree
frame a Column of Stone. Nor is it much to be wondred at, that the
wood under the water ihould remain unaltered whilft that above fufler-
ed fo great a change. Thefe vvaters are hot, and part of whatfoever is
contained in them is fufficiently Volatilized to be carried up with the
ileam of the Bath, and I remember in the Bath of the Green Pillars
at Buda,  I took notice, that the exhalation from the Bath reverbera-
ted by the high Cupola  built over it, and by the Irons extended from
one Column to another, and by the Capitals of the Pillars was for-
med into long Stones like Ice-icles,  which hang to ali the faid places,
fuch as may be obferved in many fubterraneous Grottds,  and particu-
larlyin En^landva.Okey-hole'm Somerfet-Jbire y zn.& Pooles-hole  in Dar-
ly-Jhire. Sulphur  alfo which is in great quantity in many hot Springs
flyeth away continually, and is not to be found in them, if you boyl
or evaporate the Bath water: artd therefore to difcover it, I thought
it more rational to look out of the water than into it; neither was I.
more deceived in my conječture, than he who looked towards the
Weft, rather than towards the Eaft to fee the rifing of the Sun. For
upon man/ places which were over the Baths, and received the
fteams of the hot water, I have feen Sulphur  to ftick ; and to fatisfie
my curiofity further herein,! caufed once a Pipe to be opened at Baden
in Auftria,  through which the hot water continually ran, and took with
my hand from the upper part of the Pipe,divers Boxesfull ofafubftancc

fcarce

6 2 A Journej from  Komara to the Mine-Tovns in  Hungary.

fcarce to be diftinguifhed from Flovver of Brimftone. Walking about
alfo one day in the Soiver Bath  at Baden,  and leaning over the Balli-
ftres to talk with fome Friends, who vvere then bathing themfelves, I
perceived that my Buttons and what elfe I vvore of filver, were ali
turned yellow of a fair Gold colour, although I were at fome diflance
from the water. Which made me try this experiment alfo, vvhich
vvas to hang money over the Bath at a foot diftance, or at a greater,
to fee what alteration it would make, and how foon ; which it co-
lourcd in a minutes time, and that vvhich vvas nearer in half a mi¬
nute.

But to return to Eifenbadiphete.  are tvvo convenient Baths much fre-
quented,and a third which is made by the water let out of the former,
called the Snakes-batb,  from the number of Snakes coming into, and
delighting in it vvhen it is filled with thefe warm vvaters.

March  the thirtieth, I travelled from Sthemnitz  by Glafs-Hitten,
and Apfelsdorjf,  where there is a Houfe of the Arch-Biihop of Pres-
burg;  and aftervvards pafled the River Gran  and came in betvveen
the Hills; vvhere in one plače they have throvvn up the Earth , and
made a work from one ridge of the Hills to the other, to defend the
Country ; and hinder the Turkijh  Excurfions towards Chremnitz :
Aftervvards we proceeded by that Golden River and yellow Stream
vvhich vvalhes ali the Ore above till vve came to the Tovvn.

Chremnitz  is a finali Tovvn, but hath large Suburbs, and lies
high. St. Johns  Church at fome diftance from it, is thought to ftand
upon the higheft ground in Hungarj.  This is the oldcft Minc-Tovvn,
and the richeft in Gold of ali the feven in thefe parts, vvhich ar®
thefe, Schemnitz, Chremnitz, Neivfol, Koningsberg, Bochantz, Libeten  and
Tilu.

They have vvorked in the Gold-Mine at Chremnitz  nine hundred
and fifty years ; the Mine is about nine or ten Engl>Jb  miles in length,
and there is one Cuniculus  or Horizontal paflage vvhich is eight hun¬
dred fathoms long, called the Erbslall.  The depth of it is above
one hundred and feventy fathoms; they do not ufe Ladders to
defcend into this Mine, but are let dovvn at the end of a Cable,
unto vvhich is faftned a fling, or fcat of Leather ; the Lcather being
broad, and divided ordinarily into two or three parts, fo that it is
to be ihifted or changed as you find convenience, and affords no
uneafie feat, even to fuch as are not ufed to it. And in this manner,
vvhofcever cnters the Mine is let dovvn. Through one of the Scha-
chts  or perpendicular Pits, of vvhich there are fix. i. That of Rodol-
phus. 2,.  Queen Arine.  3. Ferdinand.  4. Matthias. 5. Windfcbacht,mA
6. Leopold.  I vvent dovvn by the Pit of the Emperour Rodolphus,
gently defcending by the turning about of a large vvheel to vvhich the
Cable is faftned, one hundred and eight. fathoms deep into the Earth ;
and after many • hours being in the Mine, .vvas dravvn out again by
Leopoldi Schacht,  or Leopoldi  Pit, or Shalt, ftreight up above one
hundred and fifty fathoms; a heigfrtfurpafling that of the Pyramids
by a third part., At the bottom of vvhich Schacht  I -vvas not difcouraged
to find my lelf fo deep in the earth, for confidering that I vvas yet above
three thoufand miles from tire Center, I thought my ftlf but in a Well.
It is built on ali fides Vvith Firr-Trees, one laying upon another
on fourTides from the bottom- to the top, and after the farne man¬

ner

A  Journej  from  Komata  to  the  Mine-Tovpns  in  Hungary;  6”  3
ner ali thefe MineS are kept open where they have not a Rock on ali
fides.

Many Veins of the Ore rim to the Notth, and to tke Eaft ; They
work alfo towards one, two, or three of the clock, as they fpeak ; for
the Miners diredt themfelves under-ground by a Compalš not of thirty
two points (Jfuch as is ufed at Scah but by one of twenty four, which
they dividc as we do the hours of the day 'into twice twelve. Of the
Gold-Ore lome is white, fome black, fome of it red, and fome yellow.
That with black fpots in white is efteemed ;  thb beft, as alfo the Ore
which lieth next to the black Veins. This Ore is ribt rich enough to
fuffcr any proof in fmall parcels, like thatof other Mineš, whereby to
knovv vvhilt proportion of Metal is cortfain’diri it f  but they pound a ve-
ry great quantity tlihreof, and wafli it in a little River which runs near
the Town .• The whole River being divided and admitted into di-
vers cuts, runs over the Ore continually, and fd wafhes away the
earthy parts from the MetalHn,  and from a clear River above the
Town,by its running through fo many works,and over fo much pounded
Ore,it becomes be!ow the Town a dark yellow Stream, of the colour of
the Earth of thofe Hills. Unlefs it be upon fix days of the year ; two
at Chritimas,  two at Eafter,  and two at Whitfunt ide , when the River
it felf as well as the Mine-men ceafeth from working, and is perrhitted
to flow clear within its own Banks.

There have been piečes of pure or Virgin Gold found in this Mine,
fome of which I have feen in the Empcrour’s Treafury, and in the
Elečtor of Saxonys  Repofitory, one piece as broad as the palm of
my hand, and others lefs; and upon a white Stone many pieces of
pure Gold ; but thefe are very rare.

The common yellow Earth of the Country ndar Chremnitz,  efpeci-
ally of the Hills tovvards the Wcft, although it be not efteemed Ore,
aftords fome Gold. And in one plače I faw a great part of an Hilli
digg’d away, which hath been caftinto the works, vvaflied and
wrought in the farne manner , as pounded Ore with confiderable pro¬
fit. ‘

Matthias Ddlinger  the chief Officer at Chremnitz  for the Mine-work,
hath alfo lately invented a Mili to pound the Ore- finer than it was
before; and by this invention hath obtained a confiderable quantity
of Gold out of that Ore whieh othervvife would have yielded none ;
in his Houfe J faw many forts of Minerals, and was vcry kindty en-
tertained by him ; and when I was at the bottom of the Gold-Mine
he fent me down a prefent of excellent Wine to drink the Emperour’s
health.

Some paflages in this Mine cut through the Rock and lohg difufed,
have grown up again ; and I obferved the fides of fome which had
been formerly wide enough to carry their Ore through, to approaeh
each other; fo as we pafied with difficulty; this happens moft in moift
places, the pafiages unite not from the top to the bottom, but from one
fide to another.

They carry their Ore under ground from one plače to another; or
to the bottom of the Pit whence it is drawn out, in a Box or Chefl
which they call a Hundt or Dog ; this runs upon four whe.fr, it is high-
er behind than before, and hath a tongue of Iron at the bottom,.
which being fitted into a channel of wood framed ih the middle of

the

A Jottrneji  /iwKomara to the Mine-Tonns  in  Hungarv.

the bottom of each pafTage, it can no ways deviate, but keeps alwayes
in the middle ; and by this means a little Boy will run full fpeed with
three or four hundred pound weight of Ore or Earth before him,
vvherever you command him, without any light, through thofe dif-
mal dark paflages of the Mine : and it was very new to me to hear the
rattling they make in the Mine, and the alteration of the fpund as
they are nearer or further from us; and to fee  them come wi|th that
fwiftnefs out of the Rocks, overturn their little Charriot, where they
are to leave their Ore, then turn again and enter thofe dark Caves with
fuch a force and fwiftnefs.

Not much unlike this is another inftrument they have to bring the
Ore from the mouth of the Mine, or from the Hills down to the
B*chworke,  where they pound it and waih it; but inftead of a tongue
it hath eight vvheels or four rowlers and four wheels, and the way is
made with Firr in fuch manner and at fuch a diftance that the row-
lers rowl upon the wood of the Firr-trees. And thefe rowlers and
wheels are fo contrived, that thefe Chefts can never overturn nor go
out of the way, and a child draws them, and fometimes a dog ferves
the turn. To one Buchivorke  alone, they carry every week three or
four hundred of thefe Chefts full, and each Cheft holds four hundred
pound weight.

There were two very bad ftrong damps in this Mine when I was
there and divers others that had not the like force to fufiocate in fo
fmalfa time. One of thefe Damps was in a Schacht P ut e us  or Pit, and
the other in a Stali, or right-on paflage; no Lamps would burn in either
ofthem,yet the Miners would venture into them for fome fhortfpace
of time: and we let one man down ,into that Damp which was in the
Pit five or fix times; but pulled him up again as foon as ever we faw
his Lamp go out; this plače is moft poyfonous when the water is high,
the vapour then arifing more ftrongly,the other Damp in the Cuniculus
they hope to remedy, by perflation, and making or digging another
paflage into it.

I was informed that there had been twenty eight men killed at one
time, by Damps in four Cuniculi^  feven in each ; and in the finking
of Leopoldi  Pit, they were much troubled with Damps, which they
remedied in this manner.

They fixed to the fide of the Schacht  or Pit a Tube from the top to
thebottom; and that not provingfufficient they forced down a broad
fiat board which covered pr ftopped the Pit, or couched very near
the fides of it on ali fides, but where the Tube was: and fo forced
out ali he Air in the Pit through the Tube; vvhich work they were
forced often to repeat. And now they having divers other paflages
into it, the Air is good and fufficient, and I was drawn up through it
vvithout the leaft trouble in breathing.

Altermans  Fore-ftall, a Cuniculus  five hundred fathoms long, was
burned in the year 1641. by the carelefnefs of a boy wiping the
fnuff of a Lamp upon the vvood; and fifty men fmothered in it ;
they were ali taken out except one, who was aftervvards found to be
diflolved by the fliarp waters of the Mine, nothing efcaping either of
flelh or bones, but only fome of his cloths

There is Vitriol in this Mine, white, red, blue and green ; and alio
Vitriolat waters. There is a fubftance found, which fticks to the

Gold

A Journejfrom  Komara to the Mine-Towns in  Hungary.

Gold-Ore of finali pointed parts like needlts, of a purple colour, and
ihining, the mother of vvhich is yellow like brimftone, it is called by
them Antimony of Gold. There are Cryftžls found here, and fome
tinčbured yellow.

There is a Vitriol-Mine in thefe Hills nigh the Gold-Mine, about
eighty fathoms deep. The Earth or Ore vvhereof is reddilh, apd
fometimes greenilh. This Earth is infufed in vvater, and after three
days the vvater is poured of^ and boyled feven days in a leaden Veflel,
till it comes to a thick granulated vvhitiih fubftance, vvhich is  after-
vvards reduced toaCalx-in an Oven, and ferves in the making of
Agua fortis^  or the feparating vvater ufed at Schemnitz.

Where they pound the Gold-Ore, they lay a foundation three yards
deep of wood, upon which they plače the Ore, over vvhich there
are four and twenty Beams armed at the bottom vvith Iron, vvhich
break and grind the Ore, it being covered ali the while vvith water.
Thefe Beams are moved by four Wheels, one Wheel to fix Beams, the
vvater vvhich comes out from the pounded Ore, is let into little Pits
br Chefts commbnly feven or eight one after another; and aftervvards
into a large Pit of almoft half an Aker of ground, and then after fet-
ling let out.

The Gold-Ore in povvder or pounded is called Slicti,  of vvhich that
is the richeft vvhich is neareft to the Beams vvhere it is firft pounded.
They work thus day and night continually. The Candles vvhich they
make ufe of are of Firr or fome Refinous vvood.

They take the Slich  vvafhed fo long as perhaps in an hundred pound
Vveight, there may be half an ounce or an ounce of Gold and Silver,
the greateft part ordinarily <GoId, tvvo thirds generally, (Tor the Chrem-
nitz  Gold-Ore is feldom vvithout fome tinkture of Silver, andthebeft
of the Schemnitz  Silver-Ore yields an eighth part of Gold in pro-
portion to the Silver;} to this Slich  they add Limeftone and Slacken,
and melt them together in the melting Furnace.

This firft melting produces a fubftance called Lech;  this Lech
they burn vvith Charcoal to make it lighter, to open its body and
rcnder it porous, and then it is called Roji.

To the Roji  they add Sand as they fee occafion, and melt it again
tn the melting Furnace ;■ then let it out into the Pan, and proceed
as in the melting of Silver.

They have divers other ways to get the Gold out bf the pounded
Ore, and I cannot omit to fet down this one, in vvhich they proceed
vvithout Lead.

They vvafli the pounded pre often, and lay it in povvder upori
Cloths, and by the gentle oblique defcending of the vvater over it,
. and their continual ftirring it, the earthy, clayilh, and lighter parts
are vvaflit avvay, vvhile the heavier and metalline remain in the Cloth:
not much unlike to this proceedingis that vvith Sheep-skins and Wooll,
vvhich they plače either in the vvater vvhich comes from the vvorks, or
in rivulets vvhich have their Heads hid in Hills and Mountains rich in
Gold ; fo that vvhile the vvater and fluid parts pals through or ove 5
them, the more folid, heavy and metalline are infnared ; by this
vvay fome have obtained the Golden Fleece. But to continue the man-
ner of vvorking vvith cloths, they vvafli the cloths in vvhich the Ore
doth ftick in feveral Tubs, and the vvater after fome fetling is pour’d

K ofT

66 A Journey froni  Komara to the Mine~Twpns in  Hungaiy.

ofFfrom its Sediment ; which Sediment is again vvaflit and ftirr’d up
in feveral Veflels and Troughs, till at length they fprinkle Quick £11-
ver upon it, and knead it vvell together for an hour or two ; and then
vvaflring it again in a vvoodcn Veflel, after the feparating of much of
it, vvhich the Quick-filver touches not, by ftriking this Veflel againft
their leg, they bring the Gold and Quick-filver together in an Amal¬
gama,  to one corner ofit. From this Amalgama  they flrain as much of
the Quick-filver as they can through courfe cloths firft, and then
through fine. They put the Mafs remaining upon a perforated Plate,
which they fet over a deep Pan placed in the Earth ; in the bottom of
which Pan they alfo put Quick-filver : This Pan they cover, and Jute
the cover well, and then make a Charcoal fire, upon it, and drive down
the Quick-filver yet remaining in the Gold to the reft in the bottom of
the Pan ; and then taking out the Gold, they caft it into the fire that
it may ftill become purer.

After fome few days having feen the moli remarkablc curiofitieš of
Chremniiz,  I vvent to Neufol;  pafling thofe Hills vvhich lie on the
Eaft-fide of Chremnitz,  upon the top of one of vvhich lies a vaft Stone
or Rock alone by it felf, near the way-fi.de ; thefe Hills aflord wood
for the Service of the Gold-Mine. Pafling on further we vvere not far
from Lila,  a Village, where they find Quick-filver ; and after we had
travelled over the Quick-filver Hills, we came again to the River
Gran,  upon vvhich Neivfol  ftands; there is a-Bridge ofvvood to pafs
the River at this Town, and an handfom building of Piles fhoring crofs
the River to Rop the wood throvvn into this River, ten miles higher,
vvhere the Country is very full ofvvood : and by this Artifice vvith-
out Jabour or charge, it is conveyed to Neivfol,  to be ufed in the work-
ing of the Copper-Ore,and in the burning, melting, cafting, hammering
of the Copper.

Netvfolis  an handfome Town, and hatha large Piazza,  at the upper
end vvhereof ftands a fair Tower. The Caftle alfo is vvorth the fee-
ing, in vvhich is the Church covered over vvith Copper; vvithin the
Church there are many Figures of carved Wood, and fome Relicjues :
but being in the pofleflion of the Lutherans  they are not much re-
garded, though carefully preferved. As I alfo obferved in fome £«-
theran  Churches in Germanj,  as at Nuremlerg,  and Magdelurg,  vvhere
fome Reliques had been left,- which they have not parted vvith, but ftill
keep as rarities.

At thisTovvn, and near unto it, are the grcateft Copper-works in
Hungarj.,  the body of the Copper being very ftrongly united to its
Stone, Bed, or Ore, the feparation of it is eflečted with great la-
bour and difticulty; for the Copper-Ore taken out of the Mine is
burned and melted fourteen times before that it becomes fit for ufe;
and firft it is melted with a Stone vvhich they call Llufs-tlein,  and its
own drofs, and vvith Kis  or a fort of Pjrites.  It is aftervvards carri-
ed to the Roft-hearth,  vvhere it is laid upon great ftacks or heaps
of Billets, and thofe fet on fire under it; by vvhich means it is bur¬
ned into a fubftance called Rofi,  and this is repeated feven or eight
‘ times; aftervvards it is melted again in the melting Furnace, and at
two Furnaces more at Mifmills,  and tvvice at the Hammer.

Here they alfo melt Kis  vvhich is brought hither from Jefina,  vvhich
fubftance melted is ferviceable in the melting of Sil ver.

At

A Journey from  Komora to the Mine-Towns in  Hungarv.

At Mifmills  not far from hence they get Silver out of Copper,
Which they feperate thus: They add Lead to the Copper wlr n it is
melted, and take out the Metals melted together in Spooris or Iron
Dilhes. When it is cold they give it a ftrong fire aigain as it lies
upon crofs Bars, untill the Silver and Lead melts and falls through.
When the Copper hath pafled its laft melting and is fit for ufe, they
cut it in pieces, with great Hammers which are iharp, to 'move every
one of which there is a Mili on purpofe, which with great force lift-
eth up the Hammer : and to Ihape and form it into Veflels or Plates,
they have other Hammers, which are fiat or round according as they
intend to frame the Copper^

The Governor of thefe Works at Neivfol  was highly obliging, and
befides the giving us opportunity of feeing every thirig we defired, he
lent me a handfom prefent of Wine and Fowls, and wrote a Letter to
the Prccfečt of the Copper Mine at Herrn-grundt  to lhew meevery
thing that was curious and obfervable in that Mine.

Herrn-Grundt  is a little Town feated very high between two Hills,
upon a part of Land of the farne name, an Hungarian  mile diftant from
Memfol.  The Country about was then ali covered with Snow after we
came to fuch a heighth, but in the Valleys, and in our journey from
ideivfol  hither we met with none ; fo that we found the Air very
piercing as we pafled towards the entrance of the Mine in Miners ha*
bits; which habit confifts of a Linen Coat and Drawers, a LtifTround
Cap, like the crown of a Hat, a leather Apron turned behind, and two
pieces of Leather tyed to the Knees, to defend thofe parts againft any
fudden ftriking againft the Rocks, or the fall of Earth upon them. Iri
the Mine we were warm enough.

I went into this Mine through a Cuniculus  called Tachfioln^  and con-
tinued divers hours in the Mine, and vifited many of the moft remar-
kable places in it. The fleep defcents in this Mine are made by Lad-
ders or Trees fet upright, with deep notches or ftayers cut in them to
ftay the foot upon: They are not troubled with water, the Mine lying
high in the Hill, fo that the vvater may drain away; but they are mo-
lefted with duft, which is choaking and fretting, and alfo with pernici-
ous damps.

In one plače of the Mine thcy lhewed me the manrier how they
had lately cured a very bad Damp by a great pair of Bellows, which
were blown continually for many days ; and in divers other places the
Damps were fo ftrong as to hinder the Work-men very much in their
Jabour, and thefe Damps are not only tnet with in places where the
Earth is full of Clay or the like fubftances, but alfo where it is rocky,
and one plače they lhewed me where there had been a perhicious
Damp, and yet the Rock fo hard, that it could not be broken by their
InftrumentS; but the defcent was ali made by the meahs of Gun-povv-
der ramm’d into long holes in the Rock, and fo blovvn up.

Much of this Mine lies in the Rocks wherc they have no need of
Wood-work to keep it open, and fomfc pafiages lie between the Rock
and the Earth, fo that they are kept open upon one fide by Firr-Trecs,
and on the other fide with Stone, the paffages alfo are not fo regular as
at Chremnitz,  for many here are neither horizontal, nor near to a per-
pendicular, but moderatcly inclining up and down, and there are many
large Cavities within. In one plače vvhere we defccnded obliquely to.

K Z CTQ

£8 A Journej front  Komara to the Mine-Tovns in  Hungarv,
go to a remarkable part of the Mine, we found that the Earth had fal-
len infcnd ftopped up the paflage, but one of our Guides unwilling to
go about, and the Earth being yet loofe, he made a Burrough into ir
and digged his way through, although the Earth continually fell upon
him and covered him; and got at length through and tumbled down
amongft the Work-men below, with a great quantity of Earth after
him j 'with which they fo fpeedily laded their Barrows and Hundts, of
which I fpake before, and the Boys ran away with them with fuch fwift-
nefs, that in a (hort time he made the paflage clear again up to the plače
vvhere he had left us.

The Veins of this Mine are very large, many of them, fuch as are
termed cumulata,  and the Ore is very rich, in an hundred pounds of
Ore they ordinarily find twenty pounds of Copper, fometimes thirty,
forty, half Copper, and even to fixty in the hundred. Much of the
Ore is joyned fo faft to the Rock, that kis feparated with great diffi-
culty, and in many places the Ore and the Rock are one Continued
Body or Stone, onely with this diflerence that one part of the Rock
will yield Copper, the othcr none ; which is knovvn and diftinguilhed
by the colour, and eafily at firft fight, the Copper-Ore being for the
inoft part, efpecially the beft ofit,either yellow or black: The yelloW
is pure Copper-Ore, the black contains alfo a proportion of Silver.

There are divers forts of Vitriol found in this Mine, vvhite, green,
blue, and a red cl ar trahfparent. There is alfo a green Earth or Sedi¬
ment of a green Water, called Berg-Grun,  ufed by tbePainters; there
are likewife Stones found of a beautiful green and blue colour, and one
fort upon which Tttrcoifes  have been found, and therefore called the
Mother of the Turcois.

There are alfo two Springs of a Vitriolat Water which turn iron in¬
to Copper, called the old and the new Ziment ; thefe Springs lie very
deep in the Mine, and the Iron is ordinarily left in the water fourteen
days. Thefe Waters are yery profitable, feeing that the worft fort of
Iron, and ufelefs old Iron is hereby turned into the pureft fort of Cop¬
per, which hath this commendation above other Copper to be more
dučtile, malleable, and eafily melted ; and I have melted it vvithout the
addition of any other fubftance, vvithout difficulty. Whilft the Ore of
Copper mufi: run through many Fires and Furnaces to be brought to
ahy thing. Of this fort of Copper I took a good quantity out of the
old and I took alfo a piecc of Copper of the Figure of a Heart
which had been layed in it eleven or twelve days beforehaving the
farne Figure, but as perfečtly Iron then, as it is at this day Copper.
Some will not have this to be a Tranfmutation of one Metal into ano-
ther, but that this Water of the Ztment  being laturated with a Vitrio-
lum Vener is,  and meeting w.ith fuch a body fo ready to receive it as
Mars,  itdepofes Venus,  who immediately infinuates her felf fofar
into Mars,  that ihe doth divi dere & imperare,  and at laft Ihe fubfti-
tiites her own body, and precipitates that of Mars.

In the changing oflron into Copper in thefe Springs, many parts
are indeed often feparated, and lie at the bottom in powder, but thefe
parts are not Iron but Copper ; and I have taken of this powder out
of the Sppng, and melted it into esedlent Copper ,* fo that if the Iron
be not changed, I know not what becomes of it. This Operatioiji
vvhich

A Journey from  Komata totbe Mine~Tovpns in  Hlmgarv. 6^
which nature fo'curioufly performs in the Mine, I have finCefeen at-
tempted to be imitated by Art; and in myjudgment fuccefsfully.

After that I had fecn many of the moft remarkable places in the
Mine, I returned to the Pervalter  of Herrn-Grundt  his Houfe, and put
my clothes on again in the Stove : vvhere we were afterwards very
kindly entertained. He fhewed me a Map of that Mine wherein we
had fpent moft part ot that day ; and the delineations of ali thofe
places we had been at, with a Scale to meafure the lengths and diftan-
ces of ali Pafiages and Places in the Mine; and it was very delightful
to fee fo large a Draught or Pičture of fo fair a Subterraneous City: nor
can I term it lefs, in which there is more building than in many. The
extent furpafles moft, and the numberof the Inhabitants are confide-
rable, their Order admirable, their Watches exačt, their Reft undi-
fturbed, grateful after Labour and refrefhing, they repofing themfelves
eight hours in the hollow of a Rock after the farne time fpent in labour;
befides this Map, he fhew’d me many curious Minerals taken out of
that Mine, and by heating the Copper-Ore, and cafting it into vvater,
made the water like fome natural Baths which arife near thefe Hills,
And upon my commending the Ziment  water and its ftrange Opera-
tion upon Iron, he prefented me with divers fair pieces, and a chain
of Copper tranfmuted in thofe Springs. They make alfo very hand-
fome Cups and Veflels out of this Ibrt of Copper, and we drank out of
one of them which was gilded over, and had a rich piece of Silver-
Ore faftned in the middle of it; and this Infcription graved on the
outfide:

■ , ' , : '1' • ‘ it' ■

Eifen vare ich, Kupfer lin icb

S liber trag ich, Goldt bedeekt mich.  i. e.

Copper I am, but Iron was of old,

Silver I carry, coverd am with Gold,

The profit which the Emperor mafces, by his Mineš, is reckoned to
amount to an hundred and twenty Thoufand pounds fterlln^  yearly;
But when they come to deal with deeper and richer veins of Ore, and
that there finali be by degrees more of thefe Vitridlate Copper fprings
difcovered, this revenue will then be eričrcafed. And it is more than
probable that time will bring more of them to light; for at Zolnock^rA
other places near the Carpathian  Hills there dre divers of the farne
fprings already made ufe of. But if ftirthermore, čorifidering the no-
blenefs of thefe fprings, containing in them the true mature Salt of Ee-
n us,  fome Perfons hereafter fhall be fo fortunate, as nforeover to dif--
cover and experimentally improve the ufe of Springs and Fountains
faturated with a Vitriolum Lunre,  and Ičarn perfečtly how tb adapt
Metalline Bodies to the ad^quate energy, and ačtivity of fuch waters;
The improvemerit by tranfmutation as it is at prefent more tfian teh to
one, fo it will in thofedayes amdtint to : above ahtindred to ofite,ahd
the ufe of thefe Mineš and MetalHrič Idboil^ rifž^ hci'eby ctfeiftually
prove in times to come one of tlfo Richeft Jewels in tfie" Impdrral
Crown.

From Herrn-Grundi  we ca me to Stubn,  a Town thrče ' E^in^tridn
miles diftant from Nevfol,  and two from chremnltz;  vvhere near unto

a

7© A Joutney  /ro^Komara to the Mine-Tovpns  in  Hungarv.

a Rivolet there are divers hot Baths of great efteem, and much fre-
duented ; the water whereof is very clear and fmells of Stilphur,  the Se¬
diment green; it colours the wood over it green and black, but doth
not change the colour of Metals fo foon as moft others ; I left money
in it a whole night, which was yet but faintly coloured. The Springs
arife underneath, and pafs through the holes in the plancher of the
Baths.

The heat of thefe is anfvverable to that of the Kings-Bath in Eng-
land;  there are feven in number: The firft is the Noblemans Bath,
the fecond the Gentlemans, the third the Country-mans, the. fourth
the Country-womans, .the fifth the Beggars Bath/the fixth for fuch as
are infečted with the Lues Venerea,  the feventh the Bath of the Gjpfies.
Thefe Baths are in a Plain encompafled on ali fides with Hilfs,' the
nigheft unto them are tovvards the Eaft; and it is the farne ridge of
Hills which on the other fide are fo rich in Metals. I tath’d in one
of thefe and met good company that I was detained too long, and
received fome inconvenience from the heat of the Bath, nor could I
commend their cuftom of eating, drinking, and fleeping much while
they bathed.

From StuPn Bad  we went to Boinitz^  crofling the Rivcr Nitra  and
leaving Privitz,  a large Town on the left hand. At Boinitz  there are
alfo five natural Baths of a moderate gentle heat delightful to bath in,
being much beautified by Count P alfi  Palatine of Hungarj,  and ali of
them covered under one large roof. The firft is the Noblemans Bath
built of Stone, defcended into on ali fides by Stone ftairs; the other
four are of wood, very handfomely and well built, where it was a plea-
fure to us to fee the Boys and Girls dive fo finely for any thing that
we caft in. About this part of the Country there groVvs very much
Saffron.

From Boinitz  we went to Wefionitz y  two Uungarian  miles, and front
ffieflonitz  the nextday, we arrived at Trenfchin^  which they count four
Hunparian  miles j but fuch long ones they are, that we were travelling
from before Sun-rifing till eight of the Clock at night, before we could
come to our journeys end.

Trenjcbin  is a handfome Town feated upon the River Waag, over
which there is a Bridge of wood; the Piazza  is fair, the Jefuites
Church handfome, the Caftle feated very high, eafily difcernable at
twenty Englifh  miles diftance, and belonged to the Graff Jellhafep.
There are two warm Baths a mile from the Town, and a great num¬
ber of Springs of Mineral vvaters in the Country about. Here we met
with Count Rothall  going from the Emperor to treat with Alaffi  Prince
of Eranfijlvania  his Commiflioners at Eperies,  where I engaged fome
of his Attendants to make enquiry into the Salt-Mines of that plače,
or any other, according to the inftručtions I left with them, and after-
wards I received an Account to this effečt.

Half an hours going from the City of Eperies  in upper Hungary,
there is a Salt-Mine of great note from the firft plače of defcent unto
the bottom, it is about one hundred and fourfcore fathoms deep. Into
this the Miners defcend firft by Ropes, and at laft by Ladders unto the
lpwer parts. The Mine is for the moft part in an Earthy, and not a
Rocky ground.

A  Journey  front  Komata  to  the  Mine-Tovns  in  Hungary.  71

The Veins of Salt are large, and there are pieces to be found of ten
thoufand pound weight: they commonly hew out the Salt into long
fquare pieces of two foot in length, and one in thicknels, and for ufe it
is broken and grinded between two Grind ftones.

The Mine is cold and moift, but the Salt being a Stone fak, is not
eafily diflblved, or atleaft in any great quantityby dampnefs or moi-
flure ; yet much of the water of the Mine is impregnated with fak,
in fuch fort that being drawn out in large buckets, and aftervvards
boyl’d up, it affbrds a blackiih Sak, which they give to their Cattle in
that Country.

The colour of the ordinary Stonc-fak of this Mine is not very white,
but fomewhat grey: yet being broken and grinded to powder, it be-
comes as white as if it were refined, and this Salt confifts of pointed
parts or foflets. Another fort of Sak there is alfo, which confifls of
Squares and Tables; and a third to be found of fomewhat ftirious or
long fhoots.

Nor is ali the Sak of this Mine of one colour, but of divers; that
which is found grofly mixt with the Earth receives fome colour from
it; and even that which is moft pure and refembles Cryftal, doth
. often receive tinčtures of feveral colours; in the middle of a Cryftal-
falt with long flioots, I have feen a delicate blue ; and at Count Ro¬
tha!!  his Houfe at Vienna y  I faw a large piece of a fair tranfparentyellow.
There are alfo fome pieces fo clear and hard, that they carve them into
divers Figures, as if they were Cryftal it felf. Of ali thefe forts men-
tioned I alfo obtained fome pieces, and brought them with me into
England-

But it is time to conclude this long difcourfe of Mineš and Minerals,
which mayfeem oflittle concernunto many; yet for the fatisfačtion
of the more curious in fo confiderable a piece of Naturals, in places lit-
tle known unto us; and withal, undeferibed by any Englifb  Pen that 1
know; I would not omit this particular account thereof.

I continued my journey near to the River Wdag y  and came to Nove
Mnejlo,  and from thence the next day to Tirnaiv,  a City feated upon a
Plain, and to be feen at a great diftance; it hath almoft recovered it
felf out of the Aflies that it was reduced into fix years before : the day
following we got to the Dami e  again, and lodged that night at Pres-
lurg y  whereof I have fpdken ellevvliere ,* and then pafling the Danule
in two Ferry-boats, we travelled by Hcmlurg  Tower, by Haimlerg
Hill, by the Town of Haimler^  by Regelslrun y  Nifchet  and Sivechet,
and came to Vienna.

A great part of thefe Countries of upper Hangaria y  through which
I travelled, had a diflerent face from that of Auflria y  and from what
they had formerly been. For fome places had been burnt or plundred
by the Tartan  and Turks  in the late war, and divers pay contribution
to them, fo that many live warily and meanly to become lefs noted :
And in divers places their Houfes are bare and unfurnilhed ; and it is
well if they have any other Bed than one for the man of the Houfe
and his Wife. Even in parts of the Country better provided, and un-
der the Emperor, a great part of the people being of the Lutheran y  or
the reformed Religion, are under fuch hard meafure and fears that they
live in little content, and being of a ftout and perfevering temper, they
may in time become fo defperate, that if the Turk  Ihould break power-
fully

72 A Jo7trney fromKomata. to the Mine-Towns in  Hungarv.

fully in, ’tis probable they would not fight ib heartily againft him as in
times paft. There are many Calvinifis^  many Lutherans.  They were
formerly almoft ali Lutherans  in the Mine-Towns, but now the Offi-
cers are of the Roman  Church. At Schemnitz  a very fair Church was
lately taken from the Lutherans-,  and they told me that at Boinitz,  and
the Country about , Count P'alfi  caufed ali his Lutheran  Tenants to
change. or at leaft to declare the change of their Religion, or elfe to part
with their Houfcs and Lands: There are alfo many Analaptifts  up and
down }  more obferved for their neat working in Mother of Pearl than
any thing elfe. The Vnitarii  live in the farther parts of upper Hunpa-
ry  towards Tranffi/vania,  and have the commendation to fpeak general-
ly Latin,  even the Hungarian  Catholicks are much diflatisfied at the
intrufion of the Germans,  and their encroaching upon them, they look
jealoufly upon the Court at fiienna,  think themfelves not regarded ac-
cording to their merits or ability of their Services, nor the Hangar lan
Privileges well obferved, fo that they can fcarce diflemble their Dif-
contents, which may in time prove of very bad confequence.

1 N T O

ŠTYRIA, CARINTHIA,
CARNIOLA, FRIULI;

Unto the ftrange Lake of Zirchnitz^  to the Quick-filver
Mineš at Idria^  and to other remarkable placcs in the
Alpes.

T8? r H IL E I remained at PiemaiJ  took. the pains to fee di-
% Z % / vers  places not far diftant from it, as Peugelau, Kalen-

^ er gt doji er, Neiderg, Itzing, Bajen, Laxamlnrg,New-

’ ’ fidler-See,  with others ; and aftertvards made a jour--

ney unto Penice,  not by the Stage-Coaches which keep one conflant
road, but chofe rather to perform it by Horfe whereby I might flay irt
any plače, or go out ©f the road at pleafure.

The firft confiderable plače we faw was Baden,  about four Germa*
miles from Pienna,  a pretty walled Town feated near a part of Mount
Cetius,  which divided Noricam  from Pamtonia; a Rivolet named Sive-
cket  pafles by it, which afterwards enlarges and runs^ into the Da-
nule  about a German  mile from Pienna,  there are tllree Churches, that
of the Bugujiiners,  of our Lady, and S. Stephen ;  but this plače is mofk,
remarkable for its Baths which are much frequented from Pienna  and
thefe parts. The Springs being numerous and aflbrding nine conveni-
ent Baths, two within the Town, five without the Wall, and twobe-
yond a Rivolet called Snechet.

Tire Dukes-Bath is the largefl, about twenty foot fquare, in the mid-
dle of a Houfe of the farne Figure, built over it. The vapour pafles
through a tunnel of Wood. at the top: and the Water is conveved into
the bottem of the Bath, at one corner through wooden pipes and Trees,
under the Town-wall, from the Springhead, v hich rifes at a little
diilancc VVeflua-rd. The Springs of the reft of the Baths rjle under
them, and let in through holes of the Planeher, for ali the Baths are
Vi ainfcoted, the Seat s,- Sides, and Bottom being made of pirr. The VVa;
ter for the moft part is clear and tranfparent, yet fome^ hat blewifli f
and makes thejSkin appear pale. in it,m the lame manner as the Smoak of
v.. • . ’ *  L  Brimftone/

'jAf A ]otirney from  Vicnna into  Styria, Čarinthia,CarnioIa,Friuli.

Brimftone, it coloureth Metals (except Gold, the colour of vvhich it
alfo heightens) turning them black in a few minutes. The Coyn of
this Country, vvhich is mixed ofCopper and Sil ver, (having ofSil-
vcr, and T ’ T  of Copper} is in a minutes time turned from a white into
a dark yellovv, and foon after becomes black. It gives a fine green
colour to the Mofs and Plants vvhich it vvalhes, and leaves often a
fcum upon them of a purple, mixed with vvhite As it runs from the
Spring-head, it fomevvhat refembles the Sulphur River in the vvay from
Tivoli  to Rome,  but is not fo ftrange or ftinking nor doth it incruftate
it» banks.

The Spring head is alfo confiderable, in regard that it rifes under
a rocky Hill, at fome diftance from the entrance, and I pafled to it a-
bout the length of forty yards, through an Arched paflage cut in the
Rock, vvhich is alfo a natural Rove, (as that of Tritola  and £az^)made
by the hot Bath vvater running under it, moli part of the top of this
Cave is incruftated vvith a vvhite fubftance vvhich tovvards the mouth
becomes harder and ftony. I caufed fome of the Pipes through vvhich
the Bath vvater runs to be opened,and from the upper part of the Pipe.
I took fome quantity of the Sulphur in povvder, it teing very like
flovvers of Brimftone, this being as it v ere fublimed from the M ater and
not depofed, it being found in the upper part of the Pipe, oleum Sulphu-
risper campanum  dropped into this vvater, is received into it quietly,
Oleum Tar tari per deli<[uium  caufes an ebullition as in the making of •
Tartarum Vitriolatum.

The Second Bath vvithin the Wall is our Lady’s Bath, about tvvelve
foot broad and tvventy four foot long.One end of this is under a Church
of the farne name. This is fuller of Sulphur than the reft,and more blevv,
and leaves a yellovv flower upon the boards, as the others do a
vvhite.

The Third is the Nevv Bath, vvithout the Tovvn near the Gate,vvh«i

I favv it, it was full of People vvho vvere making merry and finging.

The Fourth is the Jevvs Bath, this hath a partition in the middle, to
feparate the Men from the Women.

Tfte Fifth is St. John  s Bath of a triangular Figure.

The Sixth is the Beggars Bath, alwayes fliallovv fo as they lie dovvn
in it.

The Seventh is the Bath of the holy Crofs, about tvvo fathoms fquare,
chiefly for the Clergy.

The Eighth is St. Peter s  Bath, this is greener than the reft.

The Ninth is the Sovver-Bath, this is fet about vvith ftone Balaftres,
and covered vvith a handfome Cupola and a Lanthorn, the Water is ve-
ry clear, in the ftream of this Bath I have often coloured Money black
vvithout touching the Water; yet the Water it felf being once cold
changes not the colour of Metals, although they be boyled in it.

The hotteft ofthefe Baths have not the heat ofthe Queens Bath at
Bathe  in En^bnd.  They ufe no Guides as vvith us, but direčt them'
felves vvith a ihort turned Staff

Here vve met vvith very good Company, and ali kind of accommo-
dation at no dear rate. A Captain ofthe Emperours whomI had ac-
companied to thefe Baths as a token of his love ga ve me a Gempskugel
vvfeh is faid to be an excrefcence upon the Liver of a vvild Goat of
Tyrol,  and highly cryed up in Germanj  for a ftgnal remedy againft thžs
difeafes

A Joumej from  Vienna into  Styria, Carinthia, Carmola,Friuli. y5
difeafes of the Liver, malignant Fevers and the Plague,and many are fo
obllinately credulous as to think that vvhofoever takes it becomes in-
vulnera-bfe for twcnty four hours after.

Having bathed in the Baths, and taken a draught of the Town, I
left Buden,  and the next confiderable plače vvas Neivttad,  one of the
chiefeft Cities in Auftria',  it is of a fguare Figure vvitli a Piazza  in the
middle of it, two fides vhereof are arched and fupportid with Pillars:
there are four Gates, three whereof are to be feen from the Piazza; St.
Jacobs  is the chiefeft Church,which hath two Steeples in the Front. The
Emperor hath a Palače here of a fguare Building with four Towers,
which are to be feen a great way off,  as is alfo moft part of the Town,
as lying in a Marifh Ground, and in a plain Country; it is encompaf-
fed with a Ditch and two Walls, the one very low, the other feems not
llrong; yet as they told me, at one time the Turk  could not take it,
but left it upon condition that they might take fomething out of the
Town ; which being granted, they took the P ranger  or Whipping-
2’of?,and carried it unto Conftantinople;  and at another time in the Year
1519. Solywian  the Magnificent llormed it feven times in oneday,
and waseverytime rcpulfed. At this plače Count Peter Serini  and
Frangipani  were beheaded, as being chief Contrivers in the Huvgarian
Revolt.

From hence through the Plains we came to Mount Simertn  pafling
by Neivkirckel,  where there is a Chappel with a Jittle red Pinnacle
which they fay was built by an Englift  King; I fuppofeby King Richard
the firft, who vvas kept Prifoner in Auftria  in his return from the Holy
Land, whofe Ranfom built the old Walls of Vienna.  Mount Simeren.
is a part of Mount Cetiui  upon the top vvhereof lies an heap of Stones
which make the boundary betvveen Auftria  and Styria;  the afcent of
the Hill is fteep and ftony; fo that fometimes it takes twenty four Hor-
fes or Oxen to draw up a Cart or Coach.

We lodgedat Schotwien  or Schadtivien,^  ftrange Town feated betvveen
Rocks upon the paflage of the Hills, the Houfes upon the fides of the
Rocks are inacceflible but from the Top of the Hills,and looking over the
Plains, ferve forWatch-Towers; thisisaclofe llrong plače, andcalled
by fome Clauftra Auftria  ; having the Mountainson each hand, and
fliut up with a Gate at each end; a fmall current coming down from the
Hills, is admitted into the Town under the Wall, wbich put me in
mindof thePičtureof the Wall to the Kingdom of China,  wherein is
exprefled the manner of the Rivers running into China,  the Wall being
flilleontinued over them. From hence I came to Mehrzufchlag,  the
plače wherc they beat out the Iron into Bars; foto Keimburg  pafling
by a fwift fmall River named Murt,z,  then travelledby aCaftle belong-
ing to the Family of Stulnberg,  which is efteemed one of the Ancienteft
in Gerunany,  and came to Prug,  feated upon the River Mur  or Muer,  a
fvvift large River, but not navigable, although after it hath pafled by
Gratz  and Rakenlurg  it enlarges. Prug  or Muripons  is not ill built
confidering the Country, and hath a fair Piazza.  Another Town of
this name I had feen before feated upon the River Leyta,  and for di-
ftinčtion called Prug  upon the Leyta,  fo forvvard by Luheim  where the
Staple of Iron is. I came to Knitelfeldt  and Judenburg  Hill nigh to the
River Afer, the next day to Hundtsmark  and Neivmark,  then to Frei-
fach,  which fome think to havebeen Pirunum,  others Vacoriumftn.  fight

L z

y6 A Joumej front  Vicnna into  Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuii.
of Altenhofn,  the Caftle of Itrovcitz,  and the Caftle of Tettenlrun,  which
belongs to the Arch-bifliop of Saltzbur^.

Then to -St. Veit  or St. F'aith , formerly the chief City of Carinthia,
.. feated upon the Confluence of the River G lan  and fflunich,  it is walled
about, hath fix Churches in it, a Piazza  alfo, and in the farne a remar-
kable Fountain with a La ver or Bafon of white Marble made out of one
Stone, which was five of my fathoms in circumference : this noble An-
tiquity was brought from Saal  or Zvlfeldt,  a plače not far off,  and
abounding with Romun  Anticjuities.

In fight of Vitopdis or St. Veit,  there are four remarkable Hills, as
the Hill of St. Veit,  St. Ztlrick,  St. Laurence,  and St. Helena,  with a
Chappel uponeach of them, to ali thefe upon one day in the year the
Inhabitants go in devotion on foot, although to performthe fante they
muft travel above thirty Englifh  miles.

We ftayed at St. Veit,  and had the divertifement of a Latine  Come-
dy at the Francifcan  Convent, it was in May  when the higher Hills
were covered with fnow, but the Iower were ali green, full of Firr
, and

A  Jo/trnej/  from  Vicnna  into  Stxria o Carinthia^amiolajFriuii.  77

and Larch-trees, it thundred and lightned very much, and as fbon as
it began they rung their Beliš. , Many herc, have great throats, fome as
big as their heads, many arcblind, divers dumband foolsvvithal; with-
out the Town there is an Hofpital fbr fuch as have loft their 'voice, their
wits, or are othervvife opprefled by their great throats, manj- 6f the ni
cover their throats, which othervvife are very ill complexioned in cold
weather. Men and Wbmen have them, the better fort of People,which
live well,drink wine and good beer, are lefs fiibječt to them. I faw big-
ger throats in thefe parts, than any I had obferved in the Alpine  parts
of Sanoy.

St. Keit,  vvhofe name this plače bears, was a zealous Chriflian vvho
labouredmuch in the Converfion of thefe parts, and was perfecuted
under Diodefian.  Many Churches and Towns do carry hisname.in
other parts of Europe,  and the People have an opinion of St. Keit  in the
curing of that dacing difeafe called Chorea Sandi Kiti.

From hence we travelled to Saal,crSolua,  anciently a Roman  Colonyi
and fet down in the Map of PFolfgangus Lazius  |jy the name of Cdonia
Soluenfis; a Field near unto it, is called Ager Soluenfis  or Zolfeldt,  a
plače very fruitful in Antiquities, many vvhereof have been carried into
other parts: in this Field I faw that much fpoken of Antiquity of the
Kings Chair ; it is made of Stone fet together in the form oftwo Elbovv-
Chairs turned back to back. Upon three of the Stones there are Infcrip-
tions, but furely more ancient thap the Chair. At the inflalling ofthe
Duke of Carinthia,  whether he be King, Prince, or Emperor; either
he himfelf or h is Subftitute fits in one part of the Chair tovvards the
Eaft, and a Baur or Country-man in the other part of the Chair toward
theWeft; andamong other Ceremonies, the Country-man rifesup
and prefents the Duke with a fat and -lean Ox ; the Duke is obliged
to take the lean and return the fat one, and aftervvards to receive a
gentle box on the ear from the Countiy -man, and fo after this manner
is inftalled.

The Church of Saal  is very ancient, and hath efcaped the fury of the
Barbarous Nations; herein I faw the Tomb of Modedus  a Companion
of S. Keit,  it is a plain Monument, and they have a Tradition here,
that the Tomb hath removed it felf about a yard nearer unto the
Altarthan vvhereit wasfirft placed. On the Church Walls aremany
old Roman  Antiquities of good Bajjo relievo,  which werefirft taken
out of Zolfeldt-,  thofe vvhich I chieflly obferved were thefe. A
Chariot nitb two Horfes. A Chariot and a man in it. A Wolf
licking of fr uit fallen from a Tree. Hedor fadned unto the Cha¬
riot of  Achilles as h e was drami about  Troy. Four fair Heads
unto the middle. Two fflolves, each holding a Horn and a C up be-
tuieen them, out of ivhich Jhoots a Kine with Leaves and Grapes,  this is
over the Porch. VVithin the Porch is a Cupid  holding of a bunch of
Grapes. Romulus  and Remus  fucking of a Wolf. Two figures over
the Crucifix by S. Chrifiopher,  with fome others, ali vvhich Zolfeldt
aflorded ; where I alfo faw many Infcriptions, one upon a ftone on the
South* fidc of the Church was this,

hercvu

78  A  Journej  from  Vienna  into  Styria,  Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli

By rEnsai
Sjlvius.

HERCVL1. E

E P O N A E. A V G.

P RO SAltfT E. 1MP.

C A E S. M. A V R.

ANTONIJI. Ph. FE
LICIS. INVICTI.

alfo divers Roman  Coinš of Copper and Silver found in thefe parts. afldt
I brought away a Medal of Trajan s  in Gold.

From thence vre carrfe to Clagerfurt  or Claudia  of old, vvhich is at
prefent the chief Town ih Carinthia y  a  fair four fquare Towti enclofeet
with an bandfom Wall; the Rampart is very broad; at each corneF
there is a Baftion, and one in the middle of each Curtain; the Streets
are ftrait and uniform as well as the Works; there is allo a very fair
Piazza  in the middle. For the beauty of this plače they ate behold-
en to the Induftrious Lutherans  vvhile they held this Country : The
Piazza  is adorned witha Column of Marble, and a Statue of the Vir¬
gin u pon it, alfo with a Statue of the Enaperorj but abovte ali with a
noble Fountain in the middle, Over which is a large prodigious Drft-
gon made out of one Stone, Hercules  with a Club ftanding before it,
which the people thifik to be the Statue of a Baur which killed this
Dragon in thefe parts. Th is was alfo brought from the above mention-
ed Field of Saal.  There are three noble Mafly Fountains obferVabfe
in thefe hilly parts, thefe twoof St. Veit  and Clagenfurt y  and another
of white Marble at Saltzlurg.

Among the odd Cuftoms of Čarinthia  there is an old one delivered
of this plače, that if a man tvere vchemently fufpeded 6f theft, they
hanged him, and three days after judged of the Faft; if he were
found guilty they kt his body hang till it was corrupted, if otherwife,
they took down the body, buried it upon thepublick account, and
faid prayers for his fbul. Clagenfurt  was then full of Souldiers, where
I had the honour to fee Count Leflej  the chief Commander, Baron la
Hay,  and my Lord Peaflj  who had a Company in the Town, whofe
fingular civilities and faVours I cannot fufficiently acknowlfedge, they
obliged me tobe at their Table while I flayed, and one day my Lord
Lefley  carried me in his Barge through a handfom ftreight cut intd
the Werd-Sea or Lake of Clagenjurt  toa houfe of pleafure called Loretto y
finely feated,and which hath aChappel in it,built after the lame manner
with that of Loretto  in ZWy,whichhaving formerly feen, I <was the bet-
ter able to confirm the exačb imitation of it. Count Lefltj  is related
to Montecuculi,  and fo was pleafed to givc me Letters to Vienna y  and
to other parts: The honour I had to know the right honourable the
Earl of Plorwich y  Earl Marlhal of Englcmd y  did much encreafe my kind
reception among them, whofe worthy name I found not oniy knovvn
in the Dominions of the Empire, but aftervvards alfo in Turky.

Leaving Clagenfurt,  I continued my Journey Southward, and rff-
tet a. Herman  mile and half croiTedthe River Dravus  where I found it
already a large fwift River, palfing over two long Bridges of Wood,
and an Illand in the middle ; and after an hour or two I began to enter
betvveen the Hills at a plače called the Hamrner,  where the Iron is bea-
ten out, and proceeded in order to my pailage over Mount Luilel.


A Jomiiey fromVitnnainio  Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli

In a Ihort tirne entring intoas odd a defert of Rocks as may be feen,
where th re is a great Cafe at a or  fall of waters, and the water hath fo
vvorn the Rocks that ali feems to be artificial: the way up is made
with Walls, turning backward and forward with great pains, and grea-
ter Art than I could have expečted in this Country. And in this manner
vve vvent on winding backward and fonvard till we rcached the higheft
pallage of the great Mountain Luibel,  which is part a of the Carnick
Alpe s , dividing Carinthia  ; nd C ar ni ola,  and one ot the moft remark-
able Hills I ever faw; for having pafied up as high as the fleep Rocks
and Peaks would permit, we turned fidesvife by a made way \vhich
led us into a hole or pafiage cut quite through the Mountain, imita-
ting the famed Grotto  of the Hill Panfilipo,  by Naples :  there is a
Roof of Wood-work in the middle, which is continued unto the
Carniclian  fide ; the Roof of this pallage is high, the lenghth of it is
15-6 yards, and it is four yards broad.

The manner of palling through this Hill was furprizing unto me,
having never read nor heard hereof before, I thought it might be lome
work of the old Romans,  but I was afterwards informed that it was
much later, and that in former time there was no pallage into Carntolct
this way, but they went about by Pillach.  At firft fight of this hole
whcn I was far below it, I conječtured it might be the habitation or
Chappel of fome Hermit, but could not imagin how he ihould come
Unto it, till at laft by the winding and turning of the way up the Hill,
I did not onely pafs through it my felf, but met with divers Paflengers
who came out of Carniola,  and it is fo well contrived, that the Country
carriages and Carts pafs through it every day.

In afcending this Hill we had bad veather, rain and Herce hail, and
and the fnow laid ftill by the way-fide; and being fo high at the time
of a ftorm, I had an opportunity to fee the Clouds dcfcend, and after it
was paft to afcend again fo high, as to get over part of the Mountain,
and a ftream of them pafied through the hole out of Carniola  into Carin¬
thia,  oppofitely unto us who pafied out ol Carinthia  into Carniola,  or
out of Karnten  into Craen.

This noble pafiage being already fo well contrived^nd in the Country
of a laborious and mduftnous people,islike tobe continued,vvhoremove
the fnow with great pains in the VVinter, and keep the way paflable,
and as wc continually afcended till we came to this Grotto, fo  when we
werc once got through it we always defcended,& čarne firft toS.Anna,
two Enghjb  miles downward, then to Neivjiattel  a German  mile and
half further Hill defcending, and proceeded forvvard till we came to
Crainburg^  vvhich is thought to have been formerly Carnodunuwi.fr  good
Town feated upon the River Saaaus,  from vvhence through a fair Plain !
four German  miles long, we came to Labach  or Lubiana  the chief City
of Carniola;  the River Labach  runs through it, which falls after-
wards into the Savus.  It is an handfome City with a Caftle feated up¬
on an Hill which over-looks two l'arge Valleys to the North and
South, and hath a fair Profpečt of many Hills and Caftles, but being
commanded by another Hill not far from it, it is neglečfed, althougte
we find that it hath endured a ftrong Siege, for while the Emperor Pre-
derick  was receiving the Crown at Aken,  his Brother Albert us  and
Count Vlrick  took the advantage to befiege it, but it made fo good re-’
fiftance that the Emperor had time to raife the Siege and deitrov the

Army.

So A Jcurnej from  Vienna into  Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli’

Army. At Labach  I happily met vvith Mr. 7p/Z»  a Scotcb  Apothecary
in that Tovvn, who was very civil unto me, informing me of the places
about, and ftievving me many Curiofities, and the feveral Minerala of
thofe pirts.

This plače is conceived to be old Nauportus  famous for the landing
of the Argonautes,  who fetting forth from Ar gos Pelafgicum  in 7 hejja-
ly  failed unto Colchos  on the Eaft fide of the Euxine Sea,  but being
purfued by the King of Colchos  his Veflels difpatched after them, they
declined returning by the Hellefpont,  but bearing Northvvard entred
the mouth of Ifier  or Danubius,  and pafied up the River till they came
to the concurrence of the Danubius  and the Saxus^  and taking up the
Savus  they came to the River Labach^  and vvent up that River landing
about this plače anciently called Nauportus,  and then travellcd to tl te
Adriatick Sea  and returned unto Greece. So  that in my travels I had
been near their fetting out in Eheffalj,  and at the plače of their landing
in Carniola.

From hence we travelled tovvards the Aircknitzer-See,  or famous
ftrangc Lake of Airchnitz  having the Marlhes on our right, hand,and
theHillson our left; till vvecame to Brounitza,  and then pafling over
them we came to Žirchnitz,  a Town of about three hundred Houfes,
vvhich gives the name unto the Lake, here I applyed my felf unto An¬
dreas Wifer  the Richter  or Judge of the Tovvn vvho affbrded me di-
rečtionsand accommodations for the viewing of the Lake ; and  vvent
dovvn to Seedorff^  Village half a mile nearer the Lake, and then to Ni-
derdorff,  where I took Boat and fpent fome time upon the Lake.

This Lake is about two German  miles long, and one broad, encom-
pafled vvith Hills at fome diftance, and upon the South-fide lies a
Foreft part of Birnbaumer  Foreft, vvhich extends a great way, where-
in are many Dear, vvild Boars, Foxes, Wolvcs and Bears.

Every year in fome part of the Month of June,  the watcr of this
Lake defcends under-ground through many great holes at the bot-
toms i  and in the Month of September  returns again by’ the farne
holes; and vvith a fpeedy afcent, fpringing and mounting up to the
heighth of a Pike, and foon covering that tračt of ground again. When
the vvater is under-ground, the Earth makes a fpeedy produčtion of
of Grafs yielding food for Cattel in the VVinter, and at the farne time,
Hares, Deer and Boars refort to this plače out of the Country, and the
fore-mentioned Foreft, and are often taken by the people.

The Lake affords plenty of I ifli, but they filh but by permiffion,
for the Prince of Eckenberg  is Lord thereof, and a good part of the
Country about, but upon the going avvay of the vvater, ali have liber-
ty to take Fifli, vvhich they do by ftanding in the vvater by the holes,
and fo intercepting their paflage take great plenty of them, vvhich o-
thervvife vvould follovv the vvater under-ground, and not returns again
until September.  I could not hear that any unknovvn Fiflies vvere
brought up by the vvater, but thofe vvhich come up are of the fame
kind vvith thofe vvhich vvent dovvn, vvhich are a kind of Carp, Tench,
Eels, and fuch as are common in other Lakes; and they are rather
gainers than Loofers hereby, vvhen they come up, for the Fifh having
fpavvned before, the fry that goes dovvn hath had about three months
grovvth under ground vvhen they are brought up again.

The

A Journejfronz  Vienna into  Styria,Carinthia, Garmola^Fnuli. 81

The Ground under the Lake is very unequal, and the vvater not near
of the farne deprh, but in fome places four fbot, and then fudderily again
twenty yards deep: and becaufe the Fifli frequent the Valleys or deep-
er places, more than the Hills or eminent parts, the Fiihermen who
know the plače wet and dry, have given unto feven of thefe Valleys
peculiar names, which in the Sclavonian,  the Language of that Coun-
try,are thefe,

fodanas.

Refbetu.  u. .:

S it ar za. \ :

Ribi[hkiama± ; ■ ;

Naknifhu.

Levijbe.

KotteL

I pafied over the five firft mentioned Valleys,and went to a rioted
Stone called the Filhers Stone, by the appearance whereof they čari
conjedure how foon the water will defcend, and by ari Hill, which
when the vvater is high becomes a pleafant Hland, and then return-
ed.

They can give no account that this Lake hath failed any year td
defcend and arife again, or have any tradition how long this property
of the Lake hath been obferved. Some Lakes have been made by
Earth-quakes,but it is more probable that this hath been from ali Anti-
quity, and according to the beli conjedu res, this is the Luge a P altu  of
Strabo,  and therefore more ftrange that the Ancients are filent in this
remarkable account.

The neareft Sea unto this Lake is the Sinus Tergeftinus,  and Sinus
flanaticus,  the Gulf of Triefie,  and the Gulf of Ogevero.  And not ma-
ny miles from hence are the Heads of divers confiderable Rivers, as
that of Labach^  the Corcoras  or Gurk z  the C olupi s  or Culp,  which run
into the Savus.  The Kipao  or amn/s frigdus  which runs into Ly-
fonfo  by Goritia,  and divers more, but vvhither thefe Rivers arife where
the Lake falls, I could notlearn.

The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and full of Ca-
verns, and I obferved many Caverns and deep holes in other parts of
Camiola  fomevvhat like unto Elden  hole in Darbjfrire,  and I was in-
formed by the moft confiderable perfons at Zirchnitz  that the Prince
of Eckenberg  had the curiofity to go into one of them, and came out
again upon the fide of an Hill.

I was upon confideration vvhether I fltould go from hence unto Ter-
geftum  now Triefie^  a Port-Town of the Emperors in the Adriatick-
Sea,  and then by Ship to Penice^  but having been in many Mineš be-
fore I had a defirc alfo to fee the famous Quick-filver Mine at Idria  in
the County of Goritia;  and parting from 'Zirchnitz  I pafled by Lovecq t
and travelled over Mountainous parts tilll came to Idria,  which isen-
compafled with Hills on ali fides, and a River of the farne name runs
by it, which although Leandro Alberti  terms fuperbijfimo fiume dTdria,
yet I found it fmall and fliallow at the time when I was there, upon
plentiful rains howfoever it proves fufficient to convey down the Firr-
trees, and other wood required in the building of the Mineš, and alfo

M for

82 A Jour7iey from  Vicnna  into  Styria,Cannthia,Carniola,Friuli.

for fuel neceflary in the fervice pf them; and to this end there is an
handfome work of Piles made flopeing a-thwart the River, (after the
farne manner as I obferved at Neivjol  in upper Hwigary  crofs the River
G ran)  to ftop the Trees which are cut down and caft into the River
above this plače.

What is cbiefly confiderabje in this Town are the Ouick-filver Mineš,
very well known to the neighbouring parts, and exceeding ufeful to
many at greater diftance.

The entrance into thefe Mineš is not high or upon an Hill, but in
the Town it felf, whereby they are fomewhat the. more troubled with
vvater, againft which they are provided with many excellent Engines
and Devices, as at other deep Mineš ; the deepeft part of the Mine
from the entrance is between one hundred and twenty, and one hun¬
dred and thirty fathoms. ■ ’

Of the Quick-filver of this Mine they have two forts, the one call-
ed "junrfran,  that is virgin Quick-filver, the other plain Quick-filver,
Virgin Mercury they call that which difcovers it felf Uithout the help
of fire, and is either plainly to be feen in the Earth or Ore, or falls
down’in little dropsin the Mine, and fcmetimes flreams out in good
quantity ; as about feven years ago it ran out of the Earth at firft in a
ftream as’fmall as a thred, and afterwards as big as a Pack-thred, but
ceas’d in three or four days, .

That alfo is accounted virgin Quick- filver, which having no need to
pafs the fire, is feparated by water firft in a Sieve, and aftervvardsin a
long Trough, having very fmall holes at one end, fo that there is in a
manner two forts of Virgin Mercury ; the one running out and dif-
covering it felf without labour, the other requiring fome way of extra-
čtion and feparation, though not fo high an one as by fire.

Plain Quick-filver they name that which is not at firft perceived by
the eye, or falls from the Ore, but is forced out by fire, and this they
obtain out of the Ore, or out of the natural Cinnabar of Mercury
which they dig out of this Mine. The Ore is of a dark colour mixed
with red,but the beft is a hard Stone which they commit not prefentlyto
the fire, but povvder it grofly and work it by the fieve, that fo if any
Virgin Quick-filver be found in it, it may be feparated in this manner,
and^vhat doth not pafs the fieve,may be feparated by fire in Iron Fur-
naces, fifty of them in a fire. .

The Oiiick-filver-Ore of this Mine is the richeft of ali Ores I have
yet feen, for ordinarily it contains in it half Quick-filver, and in two
parts of Ore one part of Quick-filver, and fometimes in three parts of
Ore, two parts cfOuick-filver.

I went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agatha,  and came up again
by that of St. Barbara,  defcending and afcending by Ladders ; I alcen-
ded at one of fix hundred and thirty nine ftaves, or eighty nine fa¬
thoms. Sijerus  in Kirchers Mundus fobterraneus  makes fuch a dread-
ful defcription of this Mine,that it might difcourage any from attempt-
ing the defcent, which makes. me doubt, whether he had been in any
other Mine, efpecially where the defcent is made by Ladders.

In a Laboratory,where the Quick-filver is feparated by nre, I fa\v
an heap oj fiKteen thou&nd retorts of Iron, every one of which cofts
a Crown at the beft hand from the Iron Furnaces in Carinthia’.  here-
in are alfo at one time eight hundred retorts, and as. many recipients
emp]oyed

A ]ourneyfrom  Vienna into  Styria, Carinthia, Carniola,Friuli. S
emploved together in drawing over the Quick-fllver in fixteen Furna-
ces, fifty in each Furnace, twenty five of a fide, twelve above, and
thirteen below of each fide.

Jane  iz. 1669. When I was there they carried out forty laumes of
Quick«filver into Foreign parts, each faume containing three hundred
and fifteen pound weight to the value of four thoufand Ducatsof Gold,
though the conveyance be not eafie, for it is carried upon Horfes
backs, two fmall Barrels upon each Horfe, yet fome is fent as far as
Chremnitz  in Hungarj  for the ufe of the Gold Mine, and fome into Swe-
den,  and other remote parts.

In the Caftle I faw three thoufand faumcs of Quick filver together in
Barrels. the Quick-filver being firft made up in double Leather; and in
another Houfe as much rich Ore as can be deftilled in two years, except
they have great plenty of rain to bring down the wood, but the Hills
being high about thcm, it fnows at the tops of them oftner than it
rains.

Thofe Strangers who come into the Caftle of Z/r/<j,have their names
fet down in a Regifter-Book, with the Country of which they are Na-
tives, and the Catalogue is large, but of Englifh  men there are few; of
late years onely Mr. Eveljn  and Dr. Pope,  with their Company, of
whofe obfervations there is an handfome account in the Philofophical
Tranfa&ions fome time fince. This plače is the more grateful to Stran¬
gers in refpečt that it being a Frontier Town, and bordering upon di-
vers Nations, many Languages are underftood + he're,and I obfervcd that
there vvere five fpoken freely by the Officers and better fort of People,
befides French  which was not excluded from this plače, though not fo
efteemed or defired. viz. Friulian, Sclavonian, German, Latin  and Ita-
lian.

Leaving Idria  I pafled over Smartzenlerg  or the. black Mountain, and
defcended about ten miles through a ftony Country far worfe than the
Crau  or ftony Plain in Provence,  and came to Adofhini,  and then to Go* Gorj[ja
ritia  or Noreja  of old, the chiefeft plače of the Country of Goritia ,well
feated and over looking a fair Plain to the South-Weft. The Empe-
rors Governour of this Country lives in the Caftle, and hath had of
late a Guard granted unto him, having bcen let upon by. a Gentleman
of the Country, who for that facT vvas banilhed , and his Houfe
rafed. x

Travelling in the night, we had fometimes about us a great niimber
of large Glow-worms, which put into papers ga ve a dim light; and in
fome places in the Plains the Air was full of flaming flies affording lome
delight to us.

The Carniolians  fpeak a Dialedt of the Sclavonian,  but in thefe parts
they have a Language called Lingua Fullana,  or Friulana; he that
fpcaketh Italian  may underftand much thereof. The Lords Prayer in
that Language begins thus, Pari Neftri eh’ ees in Cijlfee Santificaat
tutonom,^c.

That neat kind of Acer whereof Violins and Mufical Inftruments
are made, profpers well in thefe parts, as alfo in Carniola  and Saltzburg-
landt,  where they make Trenchersand Tables of it, and at an eafie rate;

I brought fome ofthe fair broad Leaves from thence. '

Leaving Goritia  I pafled the River Sontius  or Lijonzo  which arifing
in the Hills above runs into the Adriatic k  Sea. Near this River, Odoacer

M z  who

84  A  Jvurney  from  Vidina  im  o  Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli.

who had made himfelf.King of Italy,  was ilain in a Battel by Theodorick
King of the Goths.  And hither the Turki  came under the command
of Afa-Beg  in the year 1-177. the ti me  °f Mahomet  the Greagover-
threw ^erommus Novello  Count of Verona  and a famous Commander
ofthofe times, flew him in Battel, together with his Son and moft of
his Commanders, deftroyed a Party of three thoufand Venetians\  and
fet a hundred Villages on Fire. Aftervvards travelling on through Mea-
dows, I came unto the ilrong and well fortified City of Palma Neva,
buiit fince to hinder the like incurftons.

Ali this long Circuit until we came within a mile of Palma Nova  we
were in the Emperors Dominions, which are much larger than com-
monly apprehended, and having fooner or later feen the greateft part
thereof, I cannot but be of that opinion, for he pcfleffes ali Auftria,
Styria, Carintbia, C ar viola,  part of Črtatia, Iftria,  and Friuli,  part of
Alfatia,  the large County of Tirolii,  the large Country of Bohemia,
Moravia, Silefia,  and fome part of Lufatia,  and a confiderable part of
Hungaria;  from Preslourg  to Tockaj  and Zathmar,  above two hun¬
dred and fifty miles, and the Inhabitants df thefe Countries being an
hardy ftout and valiant People, I cannot but think him a great and
powerful Prince^ and an happy Bulwark of Chriftendom againft the
Turks. - -

p  n  Palma Nova  in Friuli  is the largeft regulan Fortification I have ob-
* ma  <n<a.  f ervC( ^ n i ne  Baftions, bearing the names of fome noble Vene-
tiam,  which have littlekoVe excepted againft but their round ears, on
each Curtain there are two Cavalliers, the Rampart is much higher
than the Wall, upon whivh there are planted a hundred good Guns,
and many more rtady upon ali occafions, the Ditch is thirty paces
broad, and twelve deep ; it  is kept dry to render the Town more
healthful, but may be filled with water upon. occafioh, as that of Vien-
na,  much vvhereofis kept dry leaft it fliould injure their deep Cellars;
there are three Gates, Poriv Mar it ima, Porta di Cividal,  and Porta di
Z>dine.  Between the Porta Maritima,  and the Pbrta di Vdine  lie thele
three Baftions Fofcarini, Savorgnan  and Grimani.  Betwecn the Porta
di Vdine  and Porta di Cividal  are three others named Barbaro, Dona
and Monte.  And between the Porta di Cividal  and the Porta Mariti¬
ma  are thefe three. Garzoni, Contarini  and VillaCbiara.  They were
then making one fair Half-Moon belbre each Gate: In the Center of
the City is fixed a Standard over a Triple Well, in the middle of a
Sexangular Piazza,  from whence a man may fee the three Gates and
ftx Streets quite through the Town. The Piazza.  is beautified with the
Front of the Domo  Church, divers Statues, and an Obelisk much gib
ded.

In the middle of the Bridge there is a Draw-bridge made with fuch
Artifice, that the sehtinel difcovering any force approaching, may by
onely touching a certain Iron with his foot draw up the Bridge; many
handfom contrivances for Draw-bridgcs I had feen in other parts,
fometimes many upon one Bridge, and not onely one after or behind
another, but alfo fometimes two or three on a breft, the outermoft ones
ferving for the retreat of the foot, that in the middle for the Horfe and
Carriages. Some Draw-bridges are ndt to lift up, but to be drawn on
one fide, arid fo by ohely turning of it like to the opening of a Gate PaP
fengers are conveyed over the Moft and landed j but thofe which
pleafed

A Jouriiey front  Vienna into  Styria, CArinthia,CarriioIa,Friuli. 8 5
pleafed me moft wOre the Draw-bridgeS at Ahfter.ddfn,  which part in
‘ the middle, and a Veflel though under fail may pafs them, without
the help ofany one on fhoar, for the Maft, head, or break-water of
the Ship, bearing againfl the Bridge in the middle, opens it.

At Palma tiova  the Penetians  have made a cut from the Sea to the
Town capable of good Vcflels,and broad and deep enough to bring pro-
vifions and fupplies upon occafion to this plače.

This is at ptefent efteemed one of the nobleft Fortifications in Europe,
begun by the Venetians  1594. and is a notable Bulwark of their State
and Italy, for this way the Hans  and barbarous Nations pafled into Tta-
Zy, and this way the Turks  have formerly made in-roads almoft as far as
/revijo.

Having feen many of the chief Fortifications in Europe,  I had the
greatef defire to take a view of this, becaufe it carries fo great a farne,
and is faid to have been contrived by Miiitary advice from ali parts,
and as alfo becaufe the 1'enetians  would have it believed to be the no-
bleft Fortification, not onely in Europe,  but in the World; I heartily
wifh they may never know a complete Turkifh  Army before it, efpe-
cially when ever they are in no good condition to relieve it. If the
Emperor,through whofe Countries the Turks  muft pafs to come to this
plače, and the Repubhck hold firm, it will be hard for the Turk  to
come unto it, and' if the Turk  flrould be at fuch a peace with thč Fene-
tians  as may bind up their Fleet from affifting the other parts of Italy,
he fhall not need to attempt it or make his Way into Italy  by tliat
plače, for whether the Naval Forces of Italy  without the afliftance of
the Venetians,  be able to refift a complete Turkijb  Fleet, fo as to hinder
landing and falling upon that Country fome other way ’ is much to be
doubted.

From Palma nova  I went to Maran  St. Tito,  a Poft Towri of the Te¬
net ians  in Friuli^  fo named from St. Tito,  who is faid to have been bu-
ried in this plače.

At this To\vn we took a Felluca,  and fayling by the fhoar of Frluli
or Patria,  we pafled by Porto di Taiamento,  and came to Cahorle.  In
this Ifland there is a Church dedicated to the Blefled Virgin feated up¬
on the Sea-fhoar nigh the Waves, yet faid never to be overflowed by
the Sea, being as it were the Halcjon  Neli of its Patronefs, and a
plače of remarkable devčtion. On this fhoar |ve refrefhed our felves
and were divertifed at Sea in feeing them take Shell-fifh, and then paf-
fing by toew?4,where the Sea came formerlv up as high as Opiter&um,
and afterwards by Porto di Piave,  I arriVed at Penice  eiitring by the
Porto de Cajielli  paffing by the Carthujians  Convent, and Idnded at the
Piazza  of St. Mark.

Here I found the whole City higbly concerned for the Hazardous
State of Candia,  which wasloft foon after, Dominico Cdritarini  the pre-
fent Duke was fedulous in that affair. The Voyage Gbiron Erancifid
Marchefe Tilla,  General of the Infantry of Candia,  with a joumal of a
Siege had been lately publiihed, and Was in many harids.

There was alfo a fupply of Auxiliafies in good readinefs; it Wa s at
that time a more than ordinary hot Seafon, and lome of our Engllfr
Sea  Captains and Mafters told me, that they had feldorh met tvith
fuch hot weather cven between the Tropicks.

Having

8 G A Journey from  Vienna into  Styria, Carinthia ? Čarniola,Friuli.

Having formerly had a view of Rome., Naples, Florence,  and thc
great Cities of Italy,  and pafled fome time at Padoa  a few years before,
I madebuta {hoit ftay about Penice,  ard having reviewed what was
moft confiderable, and renewed my acquaintance with fome worthy
courteous Friends at Penice  and Padoa,  Mr. Hales  the Conful, Mr. Hob-
fon,  Dr. Cadined,  and others. I difpofed my aflair for my return to
Pienna  the ordinary way.

In order thereto I took Boat at Penice  and lan ded at Meftre  a pret-
ty Town, and the beft plače for accommodation for fuch as travel into
Germany  by Tiral,  or into Auftria  by Friuli;  from hence I travelled
ten miles through a pleafant plain Cquntry till I came to Trevifo  or
Tarvifium,  which gives the name unto the Country about, La Marca
Trevigiana,  a handf 'me City adorned with good Houfes, Churches,
Towers and Fountains. The clear River Sile  or Silo  runs through
it, and afterwards into the Sea between Meftre  and Morano ■>  it aboun-
ds in good Wines and Fruit, and was a chiefSeat of the Lombar ds  in
thefe parts. This old City,after having run various fortunes and been
under the fubjedion of the Hans,  and other conquering Nations, and
fometimes obeyed the Sigiori della Scala,  and the Carrare/  was United
to the State of Penice  in the year 1388. It was converted to the Chri-
ftian Faith by Profdochimus  a follower of St. Peter.  Eight miles from
hence ftood the Ancient City Altinum  founded by Antenor,  and de-
ftroyed by At tila.

From thence I came to Lovadina,  and crofled the great River Piave,
Plaviš,  or Anajftus,  which arifing in the Mountains, padeš by the Ci¬
ties of Belluna  and Feltre,  then to Concian  or Coni^lian,  and next to Sa¬
dile  or Sacillum,  formerly a Bifhops See under the Patriarch of A^uileia,
a pleafant and well-built plače efteemed the Garden of the Republick,
and feated by the River Livenza  or Liquenfia,  which palfing by Motta
runs into the Gulf of Penice.

Here I took a guide to condud me through the Plams and Mea-
dows, and came to 6/z7žwZfrgo,where I again took a Guide to crofs the
fwift River Taiamento  or Tiliaventum •  this is efteemed the greateft Ri¬
ver in Fr tuli,  arifing abovc in the Julian Alpes,  and running down into
the Adriatick  Sea, and often over-flowing a great part of the plain
Country Thisfwift River put a ftopto the incurfion of the Turks
vjtenScander Bafta  of Illyria  broke into Friuli  with twelve thoufand
Horfe and deftroyed ali before him, in the Reign of Sultan Bajazet  the
Second.

Not far from Spilimbergo,  I pafled a neat River or notable Cut cali-
ed r.a Brentella,  fixteen miles long, made by the Penetians  for the bet-
ter bringing down of wood from the Mountains to be ufed in the
making of Glafles at Muran;  it is ali paved with a good Stone, bottom
and fides, the bottom is round, fo that it is fomewhat like a Tube
opened or fplit in two.

Then I pafled by St. Daniel  feated upon an Hill by Hofpitaletto,
and came to Penfone,  a Town feated at the beginning ofthe Hills, and
formerly the limit of the Penetian  Dominions; thence by Rej ut a  to La
Chiufa,  a plače remarkable for the ftreight paflage of the Alpes,  where
the Penetians  keep a guard,and Ihut up the paflage every night; from
thence I came to Ponteba  or Ponte Fella  upon the River Fella,  the ex-
ad Confines between the Penetian  and Imperial Dominions, and
furcly

-AJournej  from  Viennazzzfo  Styria,Carinthia,Carniola,Friuli.  87

furely a man can feldom pafs more clearly.and diftindly from one
Country unto another than in this Town ; on one fide of the Bridge
live Italians,  Subječts unto the State of P'enice,  on the other fide Ger~
mans,  Subječts unto the Emperor. Upon the one fide their Buildings,
their manner ofliving, their empty Rooms, large Windows, Iron Bed-
fteads fhow them to be It alians: On the other fide immediately their
Stoves, higher Bed-fteads, Feather-beds one over another, fquare Ta-
bles, and their Bafon and Cloth by the Wall declare them to be Ger*
nians ;  the Bridge it felfis alfo hal It ali an,  half Dutch,  one part being
built of Stone, and the other of great Treeslaid over after the German
fafliion of making bridges. Betvveen Penjene  and Phnteba  there are
many great Cafcata's  or falls of waters; but of fc-veral paftages of the
Alpes  this feemcd unto me thebeft and moft eafie.

In thefe Mountainous places I was entertained with ftrange ftories
of theSnow uhich covers thefe Hillsin the Winter, as how many
pikeslength the Snovv was deep in fome places, how round the Coun-
try would look when ali the craggy Rocks were covered, how a Snow~'
ball thrown down from a Mountain would fo gather and augment in
the fall, as to do great mifchief in the Valley,. and that if the fmalleft
Bird ihoijld but fcrape with her foot at the edge of an high Hill, that
little beginning might fo encreafe in the defcent, upon a thaugh, as to
over-whelm an Houfe at the bottom. j  ■: c <

From hence by Penis,  and Piri,  unto Villach,  of Villack.  an hand-
fom,e Town, and one of the chiefeft in Carinthia;  but before I came to
Villach  I went to fee the Natural Baths which were not much out ofthe
way at the foot of an Hill about an Englijh  milefrom the To\vn and in
good efteem. There are two clear Sulphureous.Baths, but very gent-
Iy warm, and have an acid and no unpleafanttafte ; the bottom is not
planchered nor paved, but hath its own natural Spring and Settlement
with it ; yet into one there is a hot Spring let in which arifes by it;
they are large and have ftairs to defcend into them, with little Rooms
of wood about them for accommodation, they are covered over, and
they bathe in them cloathed with fhirt and dravers as in Auftria.'

Not far from hence is a Lake called the Offiacker See,  from 'Offiack  a
Town upon the fide thereof, and is one of the moft čonfideraBle Lakes
in Carinthia,  there being befides it, thefe which are remarkable, the
White Lake,  the Millftatter,  the VPerd,  and the Forchten ; this Lake
dothnotonely abound in Filh, but affords great plenty of Offiacker
Nuts, which the pcople eat, and fome make Bread of; vvhich not\vith-
ftanding upon examination I found to be no other than very large Seeds
of Pribidus Agaaticus, or \va.ter Gallthorps.

From Pillach  I foon came to the Werd See,  and keeping it continual-
ly on my right hand, I travelled by the fide of it till 1 came to Cla^enfur-
te,  and then pafled again to St. Peits,  where I met Mr. Donellan,  from
whom,Upon my former defires to him, I received an account of the
great Lead Mineš in upper Carinthia  at Blejberg,  where they have
vvorked eleven hundred years, and the Pits are deep; Federnus Stollen
or Cuniculus  is an hundred and ten fathoms deep in the Earth, and the
Hills fo high about it, that upon the melting of the Snow in the Spring,
there is often much fturt done, the Snow rowling and falling in fuch
vaft heaps that nothing is able to refift it, fo that in the year 16^ 4. it
ftll fo vehemently that it deftroyed and carried away fixteen Houfes.

Hc

88 A Journey from  Vienna into  Styria, Carinthia,Carniola,FriulL

He prefented me alfo with many handfome natural Curiofities collečt-
ed by him in thofe parts, one of which among the reft I cannot but
mention which was a rich large fair piece of natural Cinnabar  found in
Cremalt,  or in the Foreft of Cre,  two German  miles from St. Veit  s in
the Lordihip of Oojlermitz,  where there hath been great quantities
found out, for the Herr von Staudach  above thirty years ago, as he
was hunting in this Foreft, being thirfty and laying down to drink
out of a little ftream which runs from the top of the Hill, he per-
ceived the ftream to be full of Cinnabar,  but fince it hath been fo dili-
gently fearched after, that without working and digging for it, there is
little to be found.

From St. Peitz  I continued my journey \>yFriefacb,  where formerly
there was a Gold Mine, and then by Nemmark, Hundtsmark, Peltfolz^
Knitelfeldt, Luibm, P rug, Keimberg, Mehrz-u-Schlag, Schadtwien, Nem-
kirckel, Neudladt, Solinam, Frafkirchel, Nemdorff,  to VPien.

This my return from Penice  to Pienna,  about three hundred and fif-
ty Italian  miles, was the moft quiet journey I ever made, for not meet-
ing with good Company I performed it alone, and upon one Horfe ;
and although there are feveral Nations,and no lefs than four Langauges
fpoken upon this road, yet I met with no difturbance from any, nor
did any one ask from whence I came, or whither I would go, no trou-
bleas to Bills of health, and good accommodation in the Inns at an ea-
fie rate, they are for the moft part a plain People, make good Souldi-
ers, little mutinous, but obedient to commands, and hardy, and are of
good ufe and fervice unto the Emperor.

In my travels in German]  I feldom failed to meet with Jews,  but in
this journey I met with none, or fuch as I could not well diftinguifh,
for though there vvere then whole Villages of Jems  in Auflria,yet  they
Vere prohibited in Styria,  and feverely baniihed out of Carintbža, fo
that for thofe Jems  who travelled between Penice  and Pienna ;  the
Emperor difpčnces with them as to their RuffJ and the Penetians  as
to their red Hat.

To fay any thing of Pienna  may feem fuperfluous, divers having
vritten thereof, and it might fallbetter in, if ever I fhould defcribe my
journey from the Low Countries to Pienna,  and from Pienna  by the
way of Moravia, Bobemia, Mifnia, Saxonia  unto Hamburg;  mean
vhile I would no longer defer to give fome account of places lefs
knovvn or lefs defcribed in Pannonian, Dacian, Miefian, Gracian, Nori¬
cam,  and lllyrian  Countries, which in their proper order are delivered
in this Work.

In my Travels through Hungaria  and the Imperial Provinces, I
could not but take notice of fome Aflertions which I could not veri-
fie.

Belgrade  is commonly counted to be in Hungaria,  and fo defcribed
by fome Authors, but if ftričtly confidered it is feated in Servia,  or
plafia  Superior, beyond the bounds of Hungaria.

That St. Jerome  was a Pannonian  may be granted, but that he was a
Native of Hungaria,  ftrickly taken may be doubted, for he was born in
Stridon,  now conceived to be Stredon  or Streyna,  on the inward or
Weftern fide of the River Mjir,  beforc it runs into the Dr anus,  and is
accounted in Steirmark.

It

A Journejfrom  Vienna into  Styria, Carinthia,Camiola,Friuli». 8p

It is faidby Plime Carjiu Savi  iyo. mille pajfaum, tkat  the courfe
of the Savus  is an hundred and fifty miles, which if accounted from
the head is much too fliort, and not much more then half the meafure
thereof. ' . ■ ■ -•

That the River Savus  runs into the Dravus,  feems aflirmed by
Strabo, Vitinus Nauporto fluvim e(t Corcaras qui merces accipit, hic. in
Savum influit, Savus in Dravum,x\\M.  is, Not iar from NauportUs  is the
River Corcoras  or the Gurk  which receives the Merchandifes, this runs
into the Savus,  and the Savus  into the Dravus,  whereas the Savus
never runneth into the Dravus,  and when it enters the Danube  at Pek
grade  is about an hundred miles from it.

The diftance which Strabo  makes between Aguileia  and Nauportas
or Labach  of four hundred furlongs or fifty miles, though fomewhat
too fliort, may be fairly tolerated, but what he delivers of the fpace
between Tergefium  or Triefte,  and the Danube  not to be made out. It er
a Tergefio ad  Danubium, Stadiorum tir cit er mille & ducenta,  that the 7<
journey from Triefte  to the Danube  was about one thoufand and two
hundred furlongs, or an hundred and fifty miles, which is too fliort a
meafure unto the neareft part of the Danube,  which will make about
two hundred and fifty miles; but the Ancients might eafily err here-
in, fince fome of them were miftaken in the true courfe of the Danube,
vvhich they conceived to have one branch to run into the Adriatick
Sea.

I went this Journey when the Sun was in Cancer,  in the hotteft time
of the year, and the heat was very offenfive to me in the great Plairis
of Friuli,  and Aujlria ;  but in the Alp e s  it was much more moderat^
and the Country was ali green, and pleafant; when on the contrary
ali the Grafs in Aufiria  was burned up by the Sun, and if there were
not a contintjal breeze about the middle of the day upon ali great
Plains, efpecially in Southern Countries,the heat would be intolerable:
and I could not but take notice how pleafantly the poor Peafantsin the
Alpine  Countries divertifed themfelves in the Fields, and after their la-
bour would be lively and brisk, fometimes play at Cards, with Cards
of a fpan long, fuch as they have in thofe Countries, while the rich
Country-men in Auftrta  were Jaint and gafping for breath, nor did it
any thing avail them that Auftria  was more Northern then Stjria  or
Carinthia,  for there may be as much difference as to the temperature of
the Air, and as to heat and cold in one mile, as in ten degrees of Lati-
tude, and he that would cool and refrefli himfelf in the Summer, had
better go up to the top of the next Hill, than remove into a far more
Northern Country. I have been ready to freeze on the top of a Hill,
and in an hours time after have fuffered as great inconvenience from
the heat of the Valley; at the rifing of the Sun I have been upon a
Hill with a clear sky, and good vveather, and have feen a Valley in-
compafled with Mountains and covered ali over with Clouds much be-
low us, the Sun fliining upon the upper part of the Clouds made them
appear like fine Down or Wooll, and made the fofteft fveetcft hghts
and lhadows imaginable ; afterwards when we defcended into this
Valley under the Clouds we had no fuch pleafant Profpečt, but were
rained upon the moli part of the day. In that hot Country of Arabia
Travellers complain moft of the cold they fuffer in pafling the Hills.
The Mountains in Italy  and Spain  are fome of them covered with Snow

N and

po A ']ourney from  Vienna into  Styria,Carinthia,  Camiola,Friuli.

and Ice ali the Summer long. I have beard that Mount Atlas  is fo alfo,
from Dr. Butler  who lately travelled in thofe parts, and from others;
when in Great Britain  there is no fuch thing. At London  we have
Winters for the nfloft part favourable, when Captain James  who went
to difcover the North-weft paflage, and to fearch if there were any
communication between the Atlantick  Ocean and the South Sea in the
Northern part of America,  as there is in the Southern, fuflered more
hardfhip in the farne degree of Latitude then the nine Englijb  men
who were left ali the Winter in Greevland,  and Baffm,  on the contrary,
upon the farne defign had a pleafant Voyage in an open Sea, and met
with Inhabitants upon the Shoar, till he came within nine degrees of
the Pole. But I fhall wander too far out of the way, and therefore will
put an end to this Difcourfe.

A

COLEN

I N
GERMANA.

J the year 1668. I left the large and pleafant City of
Norivich,  and went by land to Tarmouth,^  Port Town
in Norfolk,  at the mouth of the River Hierus  or Tare ;
large, fairly built and populous, very confiderable for
the great Herring fifliing in the Autumn, and the
Commerce it maintains in the Streights; Baltiok,
Britifh  and German  Seas : With It alians, French,

Spaniards, Dutch, Danes,  and Sivedes.  I was here nobly entertained
by that worthy and obliging perfon, Sir James Johnfon,  who alfo fur-
nilht me with Lettersof Credit, to Amfterdam, Franckfort, Nemce  and
Nienna ;  Whereby I wasreadily and handfomely accommodated in ali
Parts where I had afterwards occafion to travel.

Augtdl  the 14. about fix a Clock at Night I went aboard the Angel-
Ketch  in Tarmouth  Road, a Vtflel of about 55 Tuns, and we imme-
diately fet fayl for Rotterdam ;  we left St. Nicholas-Sand  on the Lar-
board, and after that the Noales,  a new Sand, not taken notice of to
be raifed above twclve years before. We kept our courfe ali night,
Eaft and by South, and Eaft South-Eaft. The Sea burned at the head
of the Ship at the beginning of the night, but the Moon rifing there
appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we difcovered Gravefandt
Steeple. It is the cuftom upon ali this coaft to fend out Pylot-boats
continually to meet ali Ships at Sea, and furniih them with Pylots to
bring them through the fands, and no Ship is to refufe one: Having
taken in our Pylot, we foon difcovered Goree  Steeple, and then the
Briel. 'Ns  entred the River Mofa,  or Maes,  a Large and noble Stream,
which arifing in the Mountains of Fauge,  or Fogefus,  paffing by Fer-
N z dun,

jz A Journey from  Norwich to  Colen.

~  . , . ---------- . .■ -J

Dinant, Namur, Lie<te, Maeftricht, Ruremond, Eenlo,  and many
confidetable Places, doth here fall into the Ocean, we had a very plea-
fant paflage up the River,fayling by many neat Villages, as Maefe-(luys,
Schedam, Deifshaven,  and handfome rowcs of Trees upon the fliore,
and arrived at Rotterdam  about fix at night. This is one of the three
chief pailages by Sea into Holland,  the other being by Flufiing  and
the Texel.  The neareft cut out of Enklav d  into Holland  is from Lai-
fioffe  Point to Gravefandt,  which is x8 Leagues, and the deepeft part
of the Sea is about 2,8 Fathoms. There lay two of the greateft Ships
Rotterdam,  in Holland  at that time near Rotterdam,  the C rane  and the fflaffenaer;

this latter built in licu ofthat in which Admiral Opdam  was blown up,
fighting againft his Royal Highnefs the Duke of 7'ork,  now King of
Great Brttain, France  and Ireland, &c.  who thus early expofed his life
to thefe extream hazards for the fafety of England  and his other King-
doms. The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the Town by
vvater are handfome, and Ships of great burden are received into the
middle of divers ftreets without difficulty, (their Charinels being deep
and large) the houfes are well built, and the Town populous, they have
an Exchange or plače for Merchants to meet at, the ftreets are fo clean
that the Women go about in vvhite Slippers, they being paved with
Bricks laid edgewife. The Landthuife  hath a fair front. In the great
Church the Organs, the Tower and the Monument of De wit upon
the Bridge the Statue of Erafmus,  as alfo the houfe where he Was born,
and the Pleafure boats of the States are worth the feeing. It being
then the time of their Kermis  or Fair, there were PIayes adted and
many rarities flievvn, as Lions, Leopards,  &c. and a great noife was
madc about a tali VVoman to be fhewn of feven foot high ; but the
Boor of Leckerkirk,  not far from this Town, was higher. Parfons  and
Evans,  Porters to King Charles  the firft, did alfo exceed her, The Irijb
Youth who hath not yet done growing by divers years, fhown in ma-
ny places, is already Seven Foot and feven Inches high, but I have fel-
dom heard ofany that was taller than Martin VFerjkiz  Polander,\vho
at the age of forty two years was prefented to the Emperor Maximi-
lian  the fecond, as a rarity pf nature, and was full eight foot high,
vvhofe Pičture, as big as the life, I faw, near to the Francifcans  Cbnvent
at Fienna  in Auftria.

Fifi.  From Rotterdam  I pafled by Overfchee  to Delft,  by the Powder-
boufe, which is a handfome one, built now at fome diftance from the
Town to prevent the like accident which befel when the former took
fire and blew up part of the Town. The Piazza  or market-place is a
very fair one, having the front of the Town houfe at one end of it, and
the high Steeple of the new Church at the other. In the old Church,
Fan-Trornps  Tomb is very well carved upon the fideof the VVall, him-
felf lying upon a Canon encompafted with Arms and trophies. In the
middle Ifle of the new Church there is a noble monument, the Tomb
of Wdliam  of Naffaiv  Prince of 0 range,  together with his Wife and Son,
Prince Maurice',  his Statua  is in armour with his Dog at his Feet, and
four Obelisks are fupported by ten Marble pillars. In a houfe of this
Town there were fliewn me in a VVall the marks of the bullets Ihot at
Prince tfiUiam,  who was thereby murthered 1^84. and in another
Church vvhich was broad and fpacious I faw a handfome Tomb for Sir
Charles Morgans  Lady, and the Monument of Peter Hein  the Admiral,
who took the Spanijb  Silver-fleet. The

I

A Journey from  Nbrwich to  Colcrk 

The Hague, Mapa Comitis,  the ancient plače of Refidence of the
Counts of Holland,  and now of the States general; is about an hours
going diftant from Delfi;  in which paflage, at fome diffance, we had
a fight of two of the Prince of' Oranpe s  houfes. This plače is well
built ; the princes Court handfbme ; T he Piažza  by it full of green
Trees; many fair Houfes- The Courfe where the Coaches meer, the
Pall-mall, the Wood, the Park, do much beautifie it, and the way from
hence to Schevelinp,  from whence bis late Majefty King Charles  the
Second returned into Enfiand,  is very remarkable, it being a flreight
way cut through the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles,
havingon each hand four or fivc rows of Trees, and Schezieling  Steeple
at the end of it.

The Flapue  and Madrid  in Spah  are accounted the greateft Villa-
ges, or open unvvalled places, in Europe,  and the Hollanders  have
thought it more honour to be Mafters of the greateft Village, than of
a plače which, if it were walled, would come fhort of many Cities ;
but this may prove a dangerous refolution, for formerly upon this ad-
vantage, Martin -van Roflem,  Captain to the Duke of Gueldres,  facked
the Hague;  and it was lately m the like danger when the French
Forces lay at Utrecht  and fflerdeth  if they had forced a paflage into
that part of Holland.

Leiden  is three hoUrs or three Dutch  miles from the Hague,  at pre- Le/dm.
fent one of the neatefl Towns in Europe;  Well built, hath divers large
Streets, beautified with rows of Trees, and the water pafling through
the middle of them, and alfo well fortified after the modern way ; I
took notice of that Antiquity called Henfifi  Caflle, or the Berg,  faid
to be built by Henfift  the Saxon,  and went up to the top thereof: Up¬
on the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maže or Labyrinth round it,
and a Well, out of which, they told us, they took a Fifh alive when
the Town was almoft famiflied during the Siege, which was fhevved to
the Enemy over the Wall, endeavcuring to make their condition to
appear better than it was, and to difhearten the befiegers. There are
now handfbme flairs from the top to the bottom, and a good houfe
built by it, where they have their publick fales and entertainments.
But a nobler Antiq ity lies under the Sea, than any above ground ;
not far from hence near Catwyck  is a fquare fortrefs called Arx Britan-
nica,  built by Caligula ;  in the declining of the Roman  Empire ruined
in part by the Normans,  and aftervrards negledted, and overtvhelmed
by the Sea. But in fomč years, and great retire of the Sea, the ruines
have been difcovered, and many noble Antiquities brought from it,
lome having this infeription Ex.Ger. Inf. ex Germania Infiriori-  The
Stadthulfe  hath a fair front towards the Street. In the Anatomy
Schools are a very great number of Skeletons.  Two legs of an Ele-
phant.  The Skeleten  of a young Whale,  of a Florfe, Deer, Coiv, Cat,
Fox,  and many other Animals ; divers Skeletons  of Men and Women,
fome bodies preferved with their Mufcles, and one intire, the flefli, skia
and ali parts defended from corruption. I faw alfo bere what Mon-
fieur de Bils  pretended towards the prefervation of Bodies, but more
accurately aftervvards at Dr. Ruifch  his houfe at Amfterdain.  The Phy-
fick-garden, although but finali, is vreli filled with Plants, where are
alfo many other both natural, and artificial Curiofities to be feen, and
many forts of Optick-glaffes.  Near the garden are the Schools built of

Brick

A Journep from  Norwich to  Colcn.

Brick with the Gfficina Elzeviriana  on the top. In the ChurchesI faw
the Monuments of many famous men, in the Frencb  Church is the
Tomb of Jofeph Scaliger,  with a large Infcription upon it, and thefe
few words which he himfelf defired might be placed there.

JofephusJuJlus Scaliger
Jul. C&f. Pil.

Hic expetto Rejurrečlionem.

As alfo the Tomb of Carolus Clufius  the great Herbarift

Omnia N at ur te qui tnunera peli or e clufit
Clujius-) herbifero clauditur hoc tumulo.

And witk this following ;

Non potuit plures bele quterere Clujius herlas:
Ergo nouas campis quatrit in Elpjiis.

i. e.

Clujius  view’d ali the Plants that this Earth yields,
And now is fimpling in the Eljfian  Fields.

There is a Pidure in the Chamber for the Burgermafters, repre-
fenting the day of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Lejden,  fo
much efteemed that, it is laid, the Emperor Rudolphus  would have gi-
ven for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The
Table alfo upon which John  of Leyden  vvrought whilft he was a Tay-
lor, is a Curiofity, becaufe he proved aftcrwards fo confiderable a di-
fturber of Germany,  and came to be King of the Anabaptids.

This City endured a hard fiege by the Spanifh  forces, and they were
reduced unto great extremity, but they faved themfelves by overflow-
ing the Country, and fo torcing the enemies to make away with
great lofs,- and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medal with this in-
ferption.

7Jt Senacherib a  Jerufalem, Jic Hifpani it Leyda noclu fugerunt.
fiaerlem.  From Lejden  I came to Uaerlem,  a neat City, pleafantlv fcated and
having a Grove near it. The great Church is efteemed the largeft in
Holland^  with a very high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many In-
feriptions and Monuments, moft of which are tranferibed and fet down
in Gotfr. Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum.  In the Prince’s houfe are
ali the Earls of Ho Hanci  Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in
the Summer-houfe, the Pičture of Laurentius Cojterus,  who is laid to
have firft invented theart of Printing in this Town ; but others attri-
bute it to Johannes Gottenlerg,  a German.  On the other fide there is a
Pičhire of a Ship with Saws, in memory of the manner how Damiata
in Egypt  was formerly taken by thofe of this Town, who, as they re-
port, accompanied Frederick Barbarojja  in an expedition againft the
Saracens^  and when the men of P'elujium  or Damiata  had chained up
their Port, by this invention of faftning ftrong Sawsto the keels of their

■ ■ - Ships,

!

j r—m m ■■■■*■■ ———   mn   mu li m. m u  ■■r i n i    i n.. ...

A  ]ourney  from  Nonvich’ to  Cokn.

Ships, they cut the chains in funder, and fo took  the Town. In the
rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk^  and Goltzius,  as his Pro-
metbeus  and other Peeces ; but Corneiius vati Hderlem  moft delighted
me, in his peeces of Herods  killing the Innocent Children’; his feaft of
the Gods, in vvhich Pulcans foot  is efteemed at a grčat rate; and ano-
ther Pičture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation, not inferiour to thy
reft, among many Epitaphs in the great Church,there is this Dutch  ohe ?
for a Man and his Wife.

Laet lope n Pie lopen lufie

Onfe tiit is ver lope n ivy lepjpen bier in ruji e.

Let them run, that run will
Our times run out, and vve lye flill.

The old Mens hode, or an Hofpital for fixty aged perfons, is large
and handfome ; having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it. The
Hofpital alfo for the fick is very čleanly kept,

Here I firft faw the manner of punilhing Malefačtors by whipping
them with rods, vvhich is more fevere than I imagined; theyleadthem
to a Poft upon a Scaffold, their hands tyed apd by a Pully dravvn up
as high as can be extended, and then an Iron faflned about their waft
to keep t .em fteady ; in vvhich ftretched-out poflure they receive fome-
times fifty or fixty ftripes or more, according to the merit of their of-
fence.

Not far from this plače there is a great Water, or noted Lake called
Haerlem Meere  about twenty Miles in length, vvhich is frožen over in
hard Winters i  and men fwiftly travel over it by fliding or in fleds.
When Haerlem  befieged there was a Naval fight upon it; The
Dutch  having about an hundred and fifty Veflels, and the Spaniards
not many fevver. The Town was afterwards taken by Compofition,
but fuch Cruelty was ufed by tho Spaniards  that they have not} et
forgOt it. Amfterdarr.,

From Haerlem  I went to Amsterdam,  a City at prefent for Riches,
Trade, Shipping, fair Streets, and pleafant habitations, fcarce yielding
to any other of the World. It is feated upon the River 7e, and hath
its name, as ’tis reported, from a Callle appertaining long fmce to the
Lords of Amslel,  to vvhom this plače alfo belonged: At the begin-
ning, thefeat of afew Filhermen ; but aftervvards increafing,. if re-
ceived many Privilcdges from the Counts of Holland^  and was made a
Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters. In the year
1470.it was vvalled about with a Brick-wall, to defend it againft the
Citizens of 7Ptrecht y  they having been in great danger to have fallen in-
to their hands, if thofe of Zrtrecht  had purfued their Vičtories. In
few Monthsafter alfo, the whole Town was almoft reduced to Afhesby
fire, but by the increafe of their Traffick they eafily overcame their
lofles, waded through ali difficulties, and rendred good Services to
their Counts, and received the honour aftervvards from Maximilian
the Emperor to have the Iraperial Crown over their Armes, vvhich are
three Croffes  on a Pale.

About the year 1515'. Gelen>  fent from the new King of Munller y
pafled through Friefland  and came to this City; vvhere having made a

Party,

$6 A Journej from  Nonvich to  Colcn.

Party, and communicated his defign,he refolved to furprize the Towrt
by night, at the time of the founding of the Bell; to which intenc
they were already entred the Market plače, had fet upop the Town-
houfe: and cut in pieces thofe who refifted them. When by great
providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away; the Magi-
ilrates had notice of it, and caufed ali the Streetsand Avenues leading
to the Market-plače to be ftopped up with Wool-facks and Hop-facks,
whereby they were hindred in their defign of taking the Town by
night, and the next morning their number being difcovered to be in-
confiderable, they were fet upon, driven into the Stadthuis,  and de-
feated.

Oflate years this City is mightily eecreafed and encompafled with
a new Wall, and fortified after the modern way. The ne\v Streets
are large and uniform: and the whole Town being in a low Marfhy
ground, the water is let in through ali the confiderable Streets. The
River Amftel  pafles through the City, being let in under a handfome
well contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is fo built as to make
part of the Wall and Rampart, and is paces broad. The udiole
Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicu-
larly into the Earth fo thick together, that nothing more can be forced
in between them: And by this means they build Houfes in the Sta,
and lay Foundations ffrong enough to fupport the geateft Buildings
vvhatfoever, in places where no folid bottom is to be found. But they
muft needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the
firft Stone: And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is
confiderable; fince for the Foundation of one Tower or Stecple alone,
over againfl the Church of St. Katherine,  Mr. J. de Panrall^  who
vvrote Les Delices de la Hollande,  reckons that there was rammed
into the ground a Forefl,  as he calls it, of Six thoufand three hundred
andthirty four great Trees Aboutthis manner of vvork, for the fix-
ing their Foundations, I faw them employed in divers places, parti-
cularly at the Eaft-India-houfe  and at a plače vvhere a Lutheran  Church
was then defigned to be built, So that it was not improbably faid, That
if fl man could fee ali under this City, he could hardly behold a greater
Foreft.

The Stadthuis  or Totin-hoifre,  is the nobleft Building in ali thefe
Countries. A Pile of Freeftone of an hundred and teh paces in Front,
being larger than the Magnified Front of the Churchof St. Peter sat
Rome,  and eighty one paces deep, or on the fides. The Chambers in
it, the Pičtures and Statues, are worthy to be feen and admired. The
firft Room on the right hand, or Judgment-haff,  where the Malefačtors
receive their Sentence, is adorned with large Statues, hanging down
their heads in mournful poftures, as if concerned or grieving at what
was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble ; the Roofs are rich-
ly gilt and painted. Upon the top of ali itands Atlas  or Columbus,
holding a Globe upon his Shoulder made of Copper, of about ten foot
Diameter, which is as large perhaps as any Bali or Globe. whatfoever
employed to this ornamental ufe. That upon St. Peter s  at Rome,  as
having been in it, 1 judge to be lefs; as likevvife that at Florence-  The
Turki fr  Ornament to the Tower of their Mof^ues,  is three Balls one
above another, and an half Moon over them, but they are lefs by far,
at leaft fuch asi have feen : and by relation from Eye-witnefles, thč
largeft

A Journey /roz# Norwich to  Colcn.

largeft of the three noble gilded Balls at Morocco  are inferiour to this.
But I will fay nothing more of this grčat building, the Stadthuis,  fince
there is a peculiar delcription of it in Folio, with Cuts and Figures of
the moft remarkableCuriofitiesin.it. The Excharige\s  fair and large,
and above it are Shops : it is very well freguented, and he that comes
aftcr tu clve pavcth fix ftivers.

Divers of their Churches are fair : In the new Chiirch, the partition
with Ballifters of Brafs, and the carved Pulpit, are noble. In the old
'Church the Tomb of Van Htilfe  and ‘Heemskerk  are remarkable.
Heemskerk  d id his Country great Services in their firft attemptsupon
India  : for the King of Spain,  having confifcated fome of the Hollan-
ders  Ships, who traded to his Dominions, which wcre then the Staple
for the India  Trade, It was refolved by the permifllon of Prince Mau~
rice  and the States, to fet out a Fleet of eight Ships for the Indies;  four
of which were to pafs by the way of the Atlantick  Ocean,and the Cape
of Good-lope : And the other four were to fearch a paflage tovards the
Kingdoms of r Catbay aa&CEir.a  by the North-eaft, whereby the paflage-
alfo into thofe parts might be expe<fted much flioiter than that vvhich
vvas kriown to the Spaniards.

To this intent thefe four laft veflels failed out of the Texel. June
15-94. and rcturned in Septevnler,  notbeing able to proceed byreafon
ofthe Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenfon i
there vere tvo other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla ;  in the
laft of vvhich they wintered there, and Barenfon  loft his lile. Heems-
kerk  was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habita-
tion, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the VVinter,
wliere he had becn twice, and aftervvards made ttvo rich Voyages into
India.  Upon whofe happy returns the Holland Eafi India  Company
was firft eftablilhed, and a prohibiton m:de for any other ofthat Coun-
try to trade thither for the fpace of One and twenty years.

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this Ciry. The Tuch-
thuis  or Rafpelhuis,  or Houfe of Correčtion for debauched young men;
fuch as are incorrigible and difobedient to Parentsor Laws, hath at the
entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a propei^ Emblem, vvith this
Infcription, Virtvrtis efl domare cuntti pa-vent.  This was formerly
a Monaftefy belonging to the Nuns of the Order ofSt. Clare,  and con-
verted to.this ufe 1595. who are  P uC in ’ are  f° rced  to vvork and
gain their Bread with hard labour. I faw thofe who rafped Brazil,
having a ccrtain task fet them every day, vvork fo hard, that being
naked and in a ftveat, and the duft of the Brazil  wo :d flying upon
them, they vere ali over painted of a beautiful red colour, Which odd
ftght made me call to mind the Fancy of my Lady Marchionefs of
Newcaftle >  of a Nation \vherein the People vvere of Orange-tawny co-
loiir, and the King of Purple.

They told us that fome that were committed to their charge, and
not to be brought to work by blows, they placed in a large Ciftern,
and let the water in upon them, placing only a Pump by them for their
relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free
themfelves frorri drowning. One vre faw put into a narrovv Dungeon,
and kept from meat. ■ Some are put into this Houfe for a longer time,
fome for a Ihorter. It hath been a punilhment for fuch as have drawn
their Daggers, or oflered to ftab any one. And fome Citizens, though

O able

p 8 A Journey from  Norwieh to  Colen.

able and rich enough, contrive it fo, that vvhen their Sons are extrava*
gant and mafterlefs, the Officers feize upon them, and carry them into
this Houfe, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in
till they fee fufficient figns of amending their life.

This way of Correčtion may feem fevere to many, yet is not com-
parable to that which is faid to have been formerly ufed in Germany.
Particularly ztColen,  in the fflhite Tower,at  the North end of the Town,
near the Rbine  ; where it isreported, that fuch Vouths, \Vhowere not
othervvife to be reclaimed, werein a barbarous tnanner fliut up in the
White Tower.  The height and thicknefs of the Walls fecured them from
efcaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was
placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the laft remedy againft flar-
ving,which while their bold neceffity forced them to reach at, they exe-
cuted their laft fentence upon themfelves, and miferably brake their
own necks.

Somevvhat like the Rafpelbuis  is the Spinbuis,  or Houfe of Correčti¬
on, for the young women, who live loofely, are taken in the night, or
can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain
time, according as their fault merits, and are bound to make lace,
few, or employ their time perpetually in fome honeft labour.

Thofe of the better fort are permitted to have Chambers apart. In
one large Room I faw about an hundred of them, and fome very well
drefled and fine, which was an unexpečted fight to me,and wouldfure
be more ftrange to behold in France  and England.

The ffleejbuis,  or Hofpital for Children, where there are Six hun¬
dred Orphans carcfully looked after, and well educated.

The Dolhnis,  or a Houfe for fuch as are Delirious, Maniacal, or Me-
lancholical ofboth Sexes.

The Gafihuis,  or Hofpital for the Sick, being large, and hath a great
Revenue.

The Mannenbuis,  or Hofpital for old Men, and fuch as are no longer
able to labour towards their own fupport.

Befides ali which, there are great Sums of money collečted for the
poor, fo that there is not a Beggar to be feen in the Streets, and upon
ali aflignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern, or elfewhere,
and upon many other occafions, whofoever fails to come at the exačt
time, forfeits more or lefs to the ufe of the Poor-

The Eaft-India-boufes  are remarkable, and the great Stores of their
CommoditieŠ, Cinnamon, Green-ginger,Campbire, Pepper, Calecuts, Indi-
co, &c.  The Ships are of a great burden : their Houfe was then en-
larging, although it was great before; and a perfečt Town for ali
Trades within it felf.

The Admiralteyt,  or Admiralty where their Stores for War and
Shipping are laid up, is encompaffcd with water; near to it there lay
then 7iMenofWar. In the Houfe we faw their Cables, Grapling-
irons, Pullies, Oars, Charges for Powder, Lanthorns for Ships, &c.  At
the entrance of the Gate hangs upa Canoe  which feems to have a
man in it, dryed up, fo as to be preferved from corruption, and a Paddle
in his hand: enclofed up to the waft in the Canoe,  in fuch fort, as the
Filh-skins, which were the cover to it, being fo fewed together that
no vvater could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greateft Storms
without danger. The top of this Houfe, as of divers others alfo in this

City,

A  Jc«m^/žowNorwich to  Colcir

City, is a Refervatory for Rain-vvater, vvhich they have the more need
of, becaufe they have little good vvater hereabouts.

The faireft Streets in the Tovvn are Harlem-jlreet,  the Cingel, Prin¬
ces Grafi, Kaifirs Grafi,  and the New Buildihgs in the liland tovvards
G^ttenburg.  And if they continue to build vvith Freeftone, they vvill
ftill furpafs thefe, vvhich, 1’11 aflure you, are in no fmall meafure beau-
tiful.

I favv a Globe to be fold, made by Vinglomes,  betvveen fix and feven
foot Diametcr, valued at Sixteen thoufand Guldens r The Meridian a-
lone, being of brafs, cofi a thoufand Guldens. The Globe is made of
Copper-plates excellcntly vvcll paintcd,vvith ali the new Difcovefies in it,
as that of Anthony Van Dimons  Land, found out 1641. in 41 degrees of
Southern Latitude,and 170 of Longitude, thofe tovvards the North-vveft
of Japan,  and thofe places both about Nova Zembla ,  and alfo in the
Tartarian  Sea beyond the Streights of Voygats, New-Holland, We(F
Frifiland, Cape d' Hyver, &c.  but I have fince met vvith a Book,vvhich'
doth fomevvhat con tradičl this; cntituled A Voyage into the Northern
Countries by Monpeur  Martiniere, vvho vvent in one of the three Shipš
belonging to the Northern Companv of Copenhagen,  in the year 1673.'
and by that means had occafion to converfe with the Nonvegians, Ijlan*
ders, Laplanders, Kilops, Borandians, Silerians, Zemllians,  and Samo-
jedes,  who are Neighbours to the Far tar s  and Tingorfes,  in his 46 Chap-
ter he exprefTes himfelf after this manner. There having fallen into
my hands feveral Geograpbical Charts of fundry eminent and much
celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to fee how they are miftaken
in the pofition of Zembla,  vvhich they plače much nearer the North
Polethan really it is; they divide it likevvife by the Sea from Green-
land,  and plače it far diflant from it, vvhen as indeed thofe tvvo Coun¬
tries are Contiguous, the Coaftsof Greenland  butting upon the Coafts
of Zemlla,  fo as did not the great quantity of Snovv, and the violence
of the cold render thofe Borders uninhabitable, the paflage vvould be
very eafie by Land from Greenland  to ZemblapsA  from Zemlla  pafling
the Pater-nojier  Mountains to enter into Samojedia,  from thence into
Tartary  or Mnfcovy,  as one pleafed : I was amazed likevvife to fee they
had deferibed the Štreight called F<9yg^,not a bo ve ten 'French Leagues
in length, vvhereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues,
vvhich is fix times as much Again, they vvould perfvvade us that
through that Štreight our fliips might pafs into the great tartarian
Ocean, vvhich is a miftake. And although they indeed do affirm that
in the time of Prince Maurice  of Nafiaiv,  a Dutch Veflel pafled that
vvay into that Ocean, yet it is a manifeft error, that Štreight being
bounded, as I faid before, by the Pater-noder  Mountains, vvhičh are
half a League high, and the tops of them covered vvith perpetual Snovv,
vvhich never diflolvcs. And of this I can give a pofitive teftimony, ha¬
ving been my felf in that Štreight under thofe Mountains in the Dog-
days, vvhich is the hottefl time of the year.

From the Steeple of the old Church of Amfterdam,  I had a good
Profpečtof the Tovvn, and the great number of Ships lying upon one
fideof it, like a Wood; and ali the Tovvns about it. The Roofs ofthe
Houfes being fharp,it is a moft uneven Tovvn to be looked upon dovvn-
vvard,asitis a handfome one to be looked on upward;and is not fo diver-
tifing or pleafing to the fight, as fome Tovvns in France  and Italy,  vvhich

O 2. have

100

A Journej /?wNorwich to

have flatter Roofs, or elfe are 'covered with a fine black Slat or Ardoife.
Upon this, and ali other Tovvers of the Town, a Trumpct is iounded
at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at fix a Clock night and
morning. At eleven a Clock, the time of goirig on to the Exchange,
there is good Mufick at the Stadthuis,  given by the Earl of Leieejier.
They make good Harmony alfo every hour in playing upon 'their
Chimes and Beliš in moft Steeples. .And there is a Mufick-houfe or
Entertaining-houfe, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears moft
forts of Mufick, fees many good Water- works, and divers motions by
Clock-work, Pičhires, and other Divertifcments.

During my ftay at dmfterdam,  I had the opportunity of feeing di¬
vers Learned Men, and Perfons of Note. Dr. Rui/b  ihewed us many
Curiofities in Anatomy, as the Skeletom  of young Children, and Fatus s
of ali Ages, neatly fet together, and very white; the Lywphatick wf-
fels  fo preferved, as to fee the values  in them. A Liver excarnated,
lhowirg the Minute veflels, ali ihining and clear. Tite Mufcles of Chil¬
dren diflečted and kept from ccrruption : entire Bcdies preferved ; the
face of one was very remarkable, without the leaft fpot or change of
coloutr or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expe<fted
immediately after death: he had then kept it two years, and hoped
it would fo continue. Dr. Sivammerdam  fhewed us divers of his Ex-
periments vvhich he hath fet down in his Treatife De Refpiratione ;
and a very fair Collečtion of Infecfts brought from feveral Countries; a
Stagg-fiy  ofa very great bignefš; an Indian Scolopendrla,  or Forly-foot^
a fly called Ephemeron,  and many other Curiofities. Old Glaivber  the
Chymift fhewed.us his Laboratory: And we received much civility
from Blajius  the Phyfick Profefibur vvho hath wrotea Comment upon
Veflingtus. D ' ' -■ r

The Jews live more handfomly and fplendidly here, than in any
otherplače: Their chief Synagogue is l^rge, adorned with Lamps of
Brafsand Siiver. We hhppened to be there at the Feaft of their New-
year ; fb that there blowing of Hofns,.'fhouting and finging was not
omitted : Some of them underftand divers Languages. I faw one
Mofes dt P.as,  a Learned. young Mari, and Orobio,  a Phyfician of Note.
And I was forry to fee divers here to ptrofefs themfeJves publickly Jews,
who had lived at leaft reputed Chriftians, for a long time in other
places : One who had been a Francijo an  Friar thirty years ; and ano-
ther who had been Profefibur fome. years at Uolouze,  and beforethat
Phyfician to the King of Spain. Juda Leo,-%.]cw,  hath taken grčat
pains in making a Model of the Templeof Salomon,  of Salomon?,  Houfe,
the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernaele, the Ifraelites encamping, and
other -Curiofities. I was prefent at the Circumcifion of a Child; vvhich
is performed by thrufting a Probe in betvveen the G lam  and PratputD
um,  and feparating it, or dilating the Praputium,\o  astheinvvard Skin
may be drawn forvvard as well as the outvvard ; then by applying an
Inftrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a Sečtor, the Skin is
held faft beyond the Glam,  and with a broad -Incifion-knifc, or Cir-
cumcifion-knife, the Foreskin is cut ofif clofe to the Inftrument; and
what remains of Skin is immediateiy put back, the blood ftopped
with Powders, and a Pdaifter applyed'; the Relations and Acquain-
tance finging ali the while, wherehy the cries of the Infant are lefs
heard; ." :

Cokn.

A  Journe?  from  Nonvich  to  Cokn. idi

Leaving Atnjlerdant,  I pafled by a pcculiar Burial-place of the Jews,
who are not ptrmitted to interr their dead vvithin the Walls, by Overs-
kerk, Bamlurg,  and in fix or feven hours arrivedat ZJtretcht,  in a Boat
dratvn with Horfes through artificial Curs of Water, uhich is the way
of Travelling in Holland, Vtretcht,  and divers other Provinces of the
Loiv-Countries.

Vtrecht  is an ancient, large, handfome City, and chief of the Pro- Utrecht,
vince of the lame name, cailed formcrly Antonina,  and afterwards VI-
trajeAum.  Long famous for its Epifcopal See founded by Dagolert,
King of France,  who endowed it richly with Lands and Poflellions :
Wtllelald,  or PFillelrede,  an Englifliman, was their firft Biihop, who
converted thefe Countries unto Chriftianity ; and the following Bi-
fhops grew fo povverful, that they were able to bring many thoufand
men into the field, and to wage great Wars againft the Counts of Hol-
land:  Their Succeffion alfo contmued for above Nine hundred years.
It is now an Univerfity, founded by the States in the Year 1639. I fbali
not trouble you with the Namcs of the Profeflbrs ; the Learned Mr.
Ray,  whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad, having
already caufed to be printed the Series Lellionum  of this and many o-
ther Univerfities in the Low-Countries, Gerwtary,  and Italy,  in his Ob-
fervatiors Topo^rapJjical, Moral, Phyfiolttgjcal,  fet forth 167?. Tile
great Church hath a vcry high Tower, or three Stceples one above ano-
ther : From the higheft of which I had not only a good fight of the
Town it felf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many
others alfo ; Vtretcbt  being in a plain -fiat Country, and fo well featcd,
and encompafled with fo populous a Country, that in a days Journey
a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Tovvns and Ci-
ties. The En^lifb  Church here is an ancient Building ; the Pillar in
the middle of it, whofe Foundation could not be laid but upon Biills-
hides, is much taken notice of: It was built 1099. and hath the Picture
of a Buli upon it with this Infcriptipn ;

Accipe Pojleritas quod fer itta Jdctda narres,
Taurinis čutil us fundo Jeli dat a cclumna ejt.

There is.an old Library belonging to this Church, which contains
divers old Books and Manufcripts. A large Bilk in fix Volumes,
painted and gilded after a very ancient manner : Two Idols, taken (m
time of War 3 long fince in 'Germany,  and given to this plače by -the
Emperor Henry  the i ourth, are worth the fecing, -not fo much for
their neatnefs, as their Antiquity and odd ihape: As alfo a Horn made
out of a Tooth, laid to be given at the farne time. There are alfo three
Vniccrns  Horns, little difiering in length ; the longeft being five foot
and an half: I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp’d with
Silver, and made hollow to ferve for a Cup. Thefe were of the Sea-
Vnicorn,  or the Horn or long vvreathed Tooth of fome Sea-Animal
much like it, taken in the Northern Sea ; of which I have feen many,
> both in Publick Repofitories, and in Private Hands. Two f uc h as
thefe, the one Ten foot long, were prefented not many years fince to
the King of Denmark,  being taken near to Nova 'Zemlda  and I have
feen fome full fifteen foot long; fome vvreathed very thick, fome not
fo much, and others almoft plain : Some largefl: and thickeft at the

End

io2 A Journey  from  Norwich to  Colcn.

End near the head ; others are largeft at fome diflance from the Head:
Some very fharp at the end or point, and others blunt. My honoured
Father Sir Thomas Broun  had a very fair piece of one which was for-
meriy among the Duke of CurlanTs  Rarities, bot after that he was ta-
ken Prifoner by Douglas  in the Wars between Sueden  and Poland,  it
came into the hands of my Unckle Colonel Hatcher,tf  whom my Fa¬
ther had it, he had alfo a piece of this fort of VJnicorns  Horn burnt
black, out of the Emperor of RuJJids Repojitorie,  given him by Dr. Ar¬
thur Dee,  who was Son to Dr. John Dee,  and alfo Phyfician to the
Emperor of Ruffia,  when hisChambers were burned, in vvhich he pre-
ferved his Curiofities. I have feen a walking Staf£ a Scepter, a Scab-
bard for a Sword, Boxes, and other Curiofities made out of this Horn
but was rever fo fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medica!
Efficacy againft Poifons, contagious Difeafes, or any other evident ef-
fečt ofit, although I have known it given feveral times, and in great
quantity, Mr. Charlton  hath a good Vnicorns  Horn, Sir Jofeph William-
fon  gave one of them to the Royal Society. The Duke of Flor ene e  hath
a fair one. The Duke of Saxony  a ftrange one, and befides many o-
thers, I faw eight of them together upon one Table in the Emperors
treafure, and I have one at prefent that for the neat tvreathing and
Elegant fhape gives plače to none. But of thefe Vnicorns  Horns no
man fure hath fo great a Collečtion as the King of Denmark ; and his
Father had fo many, that he was able to fpare a great number of them,
to build a Magnificent Throne out of Vnicoms  Horns.

I had the honour to fee divers Perfons of Note in this City; as D. Cy-
prianus ah Oefterga,  Dr. Regius, Doetius,  the only Member then left
■ alive of the Synod of Dort  and others; but mifled the fightof the learn-

ed Anna Maria Skurman,  who vvas then gone out of Town, and was
forced to content my felf with beholding her Pifture, vvell drawn by
her own hand, with this Infcription of hers under it:

Cernitis hic pida noflros in Imagine zultus,
Si negat a s J or mam gr ati a vejlra dah it.

The Painters Hall isconfiderable, vvherein are many good pieces to
be feen of feveral Mafters: Amongft which there are good Heads by Pan
Colen  and Tuart ; Land-skips by Soft-lever ;  and good Drapery, efpe-
cially in fome Turkilh Habits, by Pander Mere.

This Town is alfo beautified with a fair'Piazza or Market-place, di¬
vers long Streets, and a Pall-mall  with five rows of Trees on each fide.
In the Church of St. Katherine  is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge.
Though I had feen France  and Italy,  and the Noble Cities thereof,
which are worthily admired by ali, yet I was much furprized upon the
firft fight of the Ztnited Provinces,  efpecially of Holland,  and the ad-
joyning places. He that hath obferved the eafre accomodation for Tra¬
ve! therein, bothby Land and Water, their excellent order and regular
courfe in ali things; the number of Learned Men: the abundance of
Varieties in ali kinds ; the indu(lry, frugality and vvealth of the Peo-
ple; their numerous good Tovvns; their extraordinary neatnefsin their
Buildings and Houfes ; their proper Lavvs and adminiftration of
Juftice; and their incredible^numberof Shipping and Boats, will think
it an omiflion to reft in the fight of other Countries without a view of
this.

A Jouvnej from  Norwich ib  Cokn. 103

this. A Country of little extent, and foon travelled over, but fo re-
plenifhed vvith People, vvith good Cities, fair Tovvns and Villages, as
not to be met vvith upon fo little a compafs of ground, except perhaps
in China.

From Utrecht,  in tvvo hours, I came to Frifmick,  and pafled over the
River Leck  to V lanen,  vvhere there is little remarkable befides the
Houfe and Gardens of Count Brederode,  one of the Ancient Nobility of
Holland,  or according to common bftečm, of ihž moft Noble Family
of ali; the Family of the Egmonds  being formerly efteemed the Rich-
eft; the iVaffenaeFs  the moft andient, and the Brederodes  the Nobleft.
The Mount in this Garden ferves for the Rampaft to the Tovvn, and
on a round Bullwark\xt  diversfmallbrafs Gtms pfefited. The Statua’s
of the twelve Cajars,  of Ariftotle,  the Pyramids and Partitions, vvith
the Paintings upon the wall, are the reft ofits‘ Ornaments.

From hence I pafled ftill by Boat through the Landof Arkel,  lome
fay, derived from Hercules;  belonging formerly to the Lords of Gor-
chom  and Arkeland,  till by Mary,  daughter to the laft Lord of Arkeland,
it fell to John  Lord of Egrnond,  and vvas aftervvatds fold to WiUlawi,
the fixth Earl of Holland.  I arrived this night at Gorchom,  a Tovvn
well feated, near three Rivers, the Ling,  the Wael,  and. the Maes.
The Market-plače is fair; the Stadthuis  is lunk fomevvhat oh one fide.
T he Governour hath a good Houfe, and the Church a very high thjck
Steeple: the VVorks are of Earth : the Water-gate is handfome, and
overit in Great Letters in this inferiptioh ; ^i'

Civitas in qu& maxlrrd Cives legilus y ar eni, & in
pace b e ata, bedo invi&a. r6jz.

. . ' • '■ "t ’•* ‘ 'f ■ v

The more remarkable becaufe it made good its Infcription in the
year 1672.  When Louis  the Fourteenth, King of France,  came dovvn
vvith fo povverful an Army into the Loivlčountries,  that in that Sum-
mers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities, this Wa-
tergate being the Limit to his Conquefts this’ way, beyond whiclr
his Forces were not able to attempt any thing. (  j

Leaving Gorcum,  I pafled by Worcumyyc\  tlieidther fide of the River,
and then by the Caftle of Lovefte ih ftxong\y  feated and tvell fortified j
and therefore hath been often triade ufe of to fecure Perfons of Note.
Sir George Afcue  of late yeurs fuflered his Imprifonment herein, and' ,
formerly Barnevelt ; upon vvhich occafion this Caftle hath been much
fpokenof, and hath given the name to that whole party who fided
vvith him, well known at prefent by fhe name of the Lovejtein
Fačtion. Pafllng on further by the Maes,  I left Troye  oni the left
hand, and Etuefden  on the right, and the next day morrling arrived at
the Bofche.

Hertogen Bofche^ Spiva Ducis, Bofcum Ducis^ Boifleduc, Bolduc , The
takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant.
It is a ftrong pleafant City, feated upon the River Dija  or Deefe,,  tvhich
enters the Maes,  about two Leagues below it; one of the greateft
Cities in Brabant;  and for its ftrength, for vvhich ’«$ behotden
both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Vnited Provinces
poflefs not any one more confiderable, and is a vefy good
Frontier againft ali Enemies on this fide: It is encompafled on

ali


104

Breta.

A Journej from  Nonvich to  Colen.

ali fides with Fens and Marlhy Grounds. The Anetiues  to it are by
narrow Caufeys, made turning and winding, to be commanded in ali
places by one or other of the fix Sconces or Forts built at fome di-
ftance without the Town for its greater Security. Befides which, the.
Hollanders  having fomereafon to bejealous of the Inhabitants, whofe
affečtions might incline them tovvards the neighbouring Princes, of
whofe Religion moft of them are,they have built a Cittadel within the
Town, a Briel or pair of Spe&acles to look more accurately into their
Affairs. It is a handfom regular Fort of dve Baftions, each Curtain is
84 ordinary paces long ; the Faces of each Baftion and the Flank
or Neck 24- There is a handfome Houfe of Stone for the Centry at
the point of each Baftion, and the middle of each Curtain, every one of
whicb cofi Seven hundred Guldens. Here is alfo a Field Canon of an
extraordinary length, faid to be able tolling a Bullet almoft as far as
Bomrnel.  The Piazza in this Town is Triangular.

This City was made an Epifcopal See, 1559. The Cathedral is De-
dicatedto St. John.  In’the Quire are painted the Arms of many of
the Knights of the Golden Fleece.  And ov.er the upper Stališ or Seats,
an Infcription in Frencj^  which contains the Hiftory of the .ftrft Infti-
tution, and Model of this Order, by the moft High and mighty Prince
Philip  the Good, Duke of Burgiindj, Lorain,  and Brabant,  in the year'
1429, who then nam^d four and twenty Knights, befides the head of
the Order, to whomJie gavp a Chain of Gold, and a Goldert Fleece;
for vvhich this Infcription was thqught fit to beplaccd up. n hiš Tomb’,

Four mainbenir leplife
Qui efi de Uietf Maifon,
Fay mis Jus le nolle Or dre-,
' Ofoon nonime le To fon.

Befides divers Statua’s and Pillars. There are alfo feveral Monuments
of the Biihops of Bofohe  and others.

This Town was taken »from the King bfSpain  by the Forces of the
Confederatc Eftates, in the;year 1628. after a long and chargeable ■
Siege T rin which the littlfc Sconce, one of the Forts tovvards the South,
did excellent Service.

Divers of the Nuns wcre ftill alive in this Tovvn, but at ZJtrecht  they
were ali dead. ; i ' ,

From the Bofohe  we travelled through a plain Country, fomevvhat
Sandy, to Breda  upon the River Merck: A plače very confiderable,
pleafantly feated. and wcll-fortified. It hath formerlyhad more Out-
works than at prefent .• For they have taken away the Crown-works;
and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works, and Conferves or Con-
tregards about the Half moons. There is a large Ditch of VVater round
the Counterfcarp, and a fmall Ravelin between each Baftion, joyned to
the Rampart vvithin fide of the Ditch. There is alfo a double Hay or
Quickfet-hedge almoft quiteround theTown,befides Palifados. The
Parapet  is very thick, and ftrengthned with a row of Elms, and fecond-
ed with another row at three or four yards diftan^e, round the Tovvn;
the bodies of the Baftions  are funk down or hollowed away, and filled
vvithathicket ofElms. The Half Moons are the like svithout the

Tovvn,

A  Journey  fr  cm  Nonvich  to  Colcn.  105

To wn, and after ali, a breft-work between the Town ahd the Baftions;

and Cavaliers upon fevcral places of the Rampart.

This Town belongs unto the Prince of O range,  unto whom it hath
defcended by the right of the houfe of Najfaiv,  by the Marriage of£«-
gelbert  the feventh Earl of that houfe, with Marj  daughter and Heir of
Philip  the laft Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by the
Spaniards  in the beginning of the Low Country Wars, attd was after-
wards furprized by the Dutch,  by a ftratagem performed by eighty
men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf, and let into the Caftle. Iri
the year 1615'. the Spaniards took  it again, as by Infcriptions and
Chronograms  are to be feen in divers places, as that over the door of the
Church.

aMlrofl fpInoLre VIgILantla breDa eXpTJgnata.

As alfo this,

FhILIppTJs hlfpanlre reX gVbernante IfabeLLa C Lar a BVgenla In-
fanta, olfIDente fplno La JVaternls reglbVs frZjlra ConTVrantlbVs
breDa VlCtor potltVr.

Aftervvards it was befieged and taken by Frederick Hendrick  Prince
of 0 range,  as an infcription at the Weft end of the Church fets it
down.

'Auxilio folius Dei, Aufpiciis confoederati Belgtj, Ferdinando Aufriaco
Hifpanice Inf ant at cum ingenti exercitu fruftra fuccurrente, a Lulij ob¬
je (fam ad  iy Augufti oppugnatam. Fredericus Henricus Princeps ara?J-
flVs breDaMeXpVgnat feXta QCt obris.

The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments, as Renejfes
Tomb ; a Monument for Sir Thomas Alifburj  fet up by the Lord
Chancellor Hide;  an old Tomb erečted 1349. for John  Lord of Lech
and Breda;  the Tomb of Grave Engleber^ Van Najav  and his family
on the fide of the Wall; the Here Van Horne  and his three Wives ;
but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Najav,
vvhofe Armour is fupported by four Warriers upon their Knees; he
built the Caftle of Breda,  which is at prefent both ftrong and beau=
tiful: I obferved the plače wherethe Turf-Boat came in,and where the
Prince came over into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, the
Walks, and Dials are ivorth the feeing, the Town is handfomly built,
populous, and generally hath a great Garfifon in it.

Leaving Breda  we foon came by Land to St. Gertrujdenberg, Genru^enier^
laft Town on the North of Brabant,  where it joyned to the Pro¬
vince of Holland,  a fmall plače, but a good Town for fifhing, lying
upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert,  made by the
falling of the Mae s  and many other Rivers into it. This Town is
fortified and Garrifoned. The Church and Stceple have been Large
and fair, and the ruines of the Latter are obfervable, in regard that this
Steeple was fliot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange,  while
the Governor and chief of the Town vvere upon it, to obferve a falfe
alarm in the Prince’s Čamp, and fo loft themfelves and the Town.

?  We

i o6 A Jburney from  Notwich to  Colcn.

We pafled from hence overa large Water whicli hath ov'erffow’d a great
part of the Country upon one fide of it, riolefs thari feventy two Pa-
riflies being drowned at once,the Village of Ramfdun  only cfčapirig,and
fo by an old Tower called the houfeof MurkieffiS  the Maiden  Tovvnof
Dori,  or Dordrecht. ■

Dordracum,  fo called by fome from Duri  or Dureti forum, at  prefent
Dori,  being feated in the Waves of thofe great Lakes made by the Mae s
and VPaal,  is not unaptly from its fituation compared to a Swans neft,
it is reckoned the firft and chief Town of South Holland,  ih refpečt of
its antiquity, as having ferved to fectire Odocef  in his retreat almoft
eight hundred yeats fince, and alfo in refpečt of its Privileges in ha¬
ving the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rhenilh wine and Englifh
Cloth.

In this Town are many fair houfeš and pleafant Gardens. The great
Church is large, the Steeple 312, fteps high; the top thereof being
made of four large Dyalls. There is alfo an Exchange or Plače for
Merchants to meet. The Englifh  have two Churches, and the French
one. The Key or Head to the water fide is handfome, and the Coun-
try about very pleafant; we faw the Chamber vvherein the Synod  of
Dori  was aflemblcd 1611. a large fair room; and took a collation in'
the farne houfe, in a high turret ovcrlooking the Town and Country :
Our feats Moving round about the Table continually; fo as the diVcr-
fity of the profpečt made it more delightful. The great Vefiels round-
bellied, which trade betwcen Čoln  and this City feemed ftrange; as alfo
the long Luyck  or ZJcge-boats; and the numfer of Pepple that conti-
nually live in them. At my going away from hence I embarked in a
Veflel bound for the Ifland of Walcheren,  fayling by moft of the Iflands
of Zealand  and in fight of divers good Towns, as Willemftadt, Zdrick-
zee,Tergpes ;  obferving in fome places where the Sea had overflow’d the
Land; and in others where the Induftry of the Inhabitants ftill.keep
it out, by keeping up their banks, and thatching the Shoars of the Sea.
'sr-Vere.  \y e  Landed at Fer-Fere,  where there is a good Haven and Harbour for
Ships, the Walls were built in the year 13j7,towards the Sea are round
towers. The Piazza  is long. The Scotch  have had a Fačtory here for
above two hundred years, and the Marquifs  of this Plače did formerly
make one of the three States, by which Zealand  was Governed. The
Abbot of St Nicholas  in Middlelurg  reprefenting the Ecclefiaftical ju-
rifdičtion, and the Towns of Middlelur^Zirickze, Fer-Vere,Fluffing,
Polen, Martins-dike, Romerfmal  and Fergoes , fupplying the Third :
over againft this plače where a Town had formerly funk into the Sea,
the Steeple only remains to be feen. From hence to Middlelurg  the
way is Paved with Brick; as it is alfo from Town to Town in moft pla¬
ces of Holland,

Middleburg. Middleburg  is the chief Town in the Ifland Walachria,  feated almoft
in the middle of it, being well built, large rich, and Populous, it is the
fourth Port for the Eaft-India  trade : hath a large, broad Water with-
in the Town, and a ftreight cut through the Land to carry Veflels out
to Sea, the whole is very well Fortified, the OfHcers here are chofen
by ftrangers or Foreigners, the Churches are many and remarkable,the
new Church is of an eight-fquare figure with a Cicpola,  the Tower of
the old great Church very high, the Stadthuife  with the old ftatuas
about it, the round Piazza,  and many private buildings are Confidera-

A jcurnej Norwicli to  Colcn. 107

ble, and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into
Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pompions,  or Grain
and Fruits. The Zealanders  are generally addičted to the intereft bf
the Prince of Qrange,  and great Lovers ofhis Perfon. I found them
not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them fome days
before and was made Premier  Noble, or chief of the States of
Zealand •  which was chiefly brought about, as I was informed, by
Penfioner Hubert, le Sage, Duvelaer  and Vriebergen,  formerJy no
great friends to the Prince, efpecially Vriebergen ,■  who was the
moft earneft of any to bring him in, in defpite to the Hollanders,  for
General VPorts  his fake, who being fet over the Zealand  forces by
thofe of Amsterdam  lately affronted Eriebergens  Son,who was a Colo-
nel at the Head of his Regiment. I was entertained at Middleburg  very
courteoufly by Mr. Hill  the Minifter, who alfo fent his Kinfman with
me to Flujling. Fliffinga  or Vluffing  hath Stone-Walls tovvards the Sea,
and Mudworkstowards the Land; a very good Port,and aftrongTown-
the waves of the Sea wafliing it walls ; it was one of the firft TownS
which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards  in the year 157%,
and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth  together with Rammaki
ns  and the Brlel.  1 ^85’. The renowned Sir. Philip Sidney\se\rrg  the firft
Governor of it, and furrendered by King James  to the United ftates,
1616. The Sea fhoar here abouts is not oniy faced with rufhes, flaggs
and reeds ftaked down as high as the Tide ufually arifes, but it is alfo
ftrongly bound over with Ofiers and hurdles and great Pofts driven
in to break the force of the Water, and fecure the Piles which make the
Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-houfe is handfomly built,
ftanding in the Piazza,  having three rows of Pillars in the Front one
above another; the Lower Dorick,  the fecond lonick,  and the higheft
Corinthian ;  and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Difcover
ftips at Sea. This is the third Port for the Eaft-jWžz? trade ; Amster¬
dam  and Rotterdam  being the firft and fecond : here lay many great .
fliips in the middle of the Town, and confiderable men of War, as the
St. Patrick,  and the Admiral of Zealand :  vve faw them alfo building
of divers ihips, and when the Prince was here they lanched one to di-
vertife him, to which he gavethe name of VVilliam Frederick , they alfo
prefented him with a Golden Bottle; that being the Arms ofthe Town:
the Prince Landed at Armuyden;  and went from thence to Tergoes,and
therice to Breda;  they reported his entertainment in Walcheren  a-
mounted to fifty thoufand Guldens.  The Women in this Ifland wear
moft of them red Cloth and ftraw-Hats; ifa Man dies a grčat bundle of
Straw is laid at the Door, if a Boy, a little onejfa Woman, the ftraw lies
bn the left fide of the Door: when any woman is brought to bed, they
faften a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door, and make it
up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in fuch manner, as to
diftinguilh of what fex the young Child is.

Returning to Middleburg  by Land I obferved there Was a row of
Trees round the Town betwetn the moat and rampart, where ordina¬
rij there is only a breaft-work or a hedge, and embarked at Middle¬
burg  again, and pafled down the River by the fort Rammakins,  and fo
for the Schelde, Sayling up that noble River till we had pafled the Fort,
Frederick Henrick,  and came to Lillo ;  where we ftayed till the Vef-,

P z ftl

io8

/lntwerp.

A Journey  /rowNorwich to  Colcn.

„• Lin ... . I - UL- w.  i. i - 1 ' — »■" ■ .. .—— -■ —- - -. ■■■■K .i. nu-I-L T , WM | „, , M ,n i —■■■ ■ ...— -*•

fel was fearched. Over againft Lillo,  lies another Fortification, call-
ed Lifgens boek;  the Fort de la croix  is the laft that belongs to the
Hollanders,  and lies on the North fide of the River; the Banks are
cut nigh to it, and the Country drowned for its greater Security. The
Spanifh  Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the Rbilip,  the
Bearl,  and the Maria.

The River Scaldis  or Scbeld  mentioned by Cafar  is a gallant River,
affbrding plenty of Filh, and convenience for Navigation and pallage
unto feveral noted places: It arifes in the Country of Permandois,  paf-
fing to Cambray, Palencienne,  fo to Tournaj  or Dornickftudenard, Gaunt,
Rupelmond  and Antiverp,  and purfuing its courfe is afterwards divided
into two ftreams, whereot the Southern is cailed the Mont ; the other
runs by Bergen ap 'Zome,  and aftenvard into the Sea between the Ifles
of Zealand.

The nest day morning we went on our Voyage Hill up the Scaldis
or Sebe Ide,  and arrived at Antwerp.  Where I had the good fortune to
fee Mr. Hartop ;  one very vvell known in ali thofe parts, and of high
efteem for his perfonal ftrength and valour. A Gcntleman alfo fo'
courteous that he makes it his bufinefs to oblige ftrangers; he lhew’d
memany curiofities in this City, carrying me with him in hisCoach.

The Walls of Antiverp  are very large, faced with Brick and Free-
ftone, having divers rows of Trees upon them, broad walks, and con-
veniences for the Coaches, to make their tour upon. The Baftaom  are
not fo large as generally they build now a dayes, yetafter the moderna
way. The Ditch is very broad and deep, the Country about it, ali
Gardens. The Cittadel  is a regular Fortification of five Baftions,  where-
in lies always a Garrifon of Spanifh  Souldiers : upon every-curtain
there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below, a rov
of building or lodgings for the Souldiers; the ears of the Baftions  are
cut down, and Cafamates  made or Cafe matte,  and Palifados fet round
upon the Efplanade;  the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and
Stone, nor is there any vhere a more regular beautiful Fortification of
five Baftions  that is finifhed : it commands the City, the River and
the Country: befides this Cittadel  there is another Fort vvithin the
Town near the Scbelde,  to command the River, having eight Guns in
it, cailed St. Laur ene e  Fort.

The Exchange is handfome, fupported by 36 Tillars, every one of a
different carving, four flreets lead unto it, fo that llanding in the mid-
dle we fee through every one of them. The Meer  or Largeft ftreet is
confiderable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of
Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the ftreets
of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end ofit flands a
large Brafs Crucifix upon a Pedeftal of Marble. The fefaites  Church
goes far beyond any of that bignefs that I have feen out of Italp.  The
Front is noble, with the Statua of Ignatius Lopala  on the top- A great
part of the infide of the Roof was painted by Rv.lens,  and fome of it
by Pan Dyke:  there be many Excellent peices of flowcrs done by Se-
gers  a 'ftefuite;  the Carving and gilding of ali the works is exquifite :
The Library of the College is great, and the Books difpofed handfome-
ly into four Chambers: the Founder hereof was Godpridus Houtappel,
whofe Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth

the

A  Joumey  from  Norvich to  Colen. rog

the feeing,in a  Chappel ori the South fide of this Church. In the Church
of the C ar vneli tes  is a large Silver Statua ofour Lady, and models of Ci-
ties in ftone. Onfer Lieven  F' ?owen Kerck,  or the Church of our Uefe d
Lady  is the greateft in the City; and the Steeple one of the fairefl in
World, five hundred foot high: one of their feet is eleven of our inches;
fo as it is 45 - 9 of our feet: In this Church there is much carving, and
a great number of Pičtures highly efteemed; among which one piece
is much taken notice of, drawn by Quintin,  at firft a Smith, whomade
the neat Tron work of the VVell before the Well door; and afterwards
to obtain his Miftrefs, he proved a famous Painter; his head is let up
ih Stone at the entrance ofthe Church, with an infeription and this
verfe;

Connulialis amor de Mulcilre fecii Apellem.

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael,  pleafa‘ntjy feated upon the
Schelde-,  where,among other curiofities, I faw aglafs,which reprefented
the Pičtures of our Saviour  and and the Virgin Mary,  collečied from
the putting together of divers other heads: One was reprefented from
a Pičture wherein were thirteen faces, and another from one of twelve:
over the blelied Virgin was this infcription,-

Diva nitet naris expreffa Maria Figur is.

The Countefs of Bral ant s  Tomb, who was drowned, and her Sta¬
tua,  as alfo the Monument of Qrtelius,  are herc fhbwh. Marcaritcs Si-
rno^eus  was then Abbot, the Monks 6$. Near unto the Wharf-gate is
the Church of St. Walburgis,^x\  Englifh Saint,who contributed much to-
wards the converfion of theie Countries.

The Town-houfe is fair, the Houfe built for the Eaft-country Mer-
chants is very flately and large, but funs now to ruine, in this
I faw, among other curiofities, divers ftrange Mufical inftruments,
which at prefent are not underftood, or at leaft not rnade ufe of: The
Heffen  houfe hath been alfo formerly confiderable, The water which
they make ufe ofin Brewing, is brought by an Aquedučt from Heren-
tallAtovti  thirty miles diftant from hence; and is conveyed into the
Town by a large Channel, peculiarly vvalled in by it felf where it paf-
fes the Ditch; in this City are many good collečtions of Pičtures both
Ancient and Modem, and excellent Miniature or"Liming by Gonfoh,
one fine piece. which I faw was peculiarly remarkable,it being the work
of h  feveral Maflers.

From Antiverp,  Ipafied to Bruffels  by water changing Boats five Bnjjels;
times and going through divers locks, by reafon the Country is fo much
higher about Bruffels,  and the water above two hundred foot lower at
Ant merf.  At Fontaine  a league and half from Bruffels,  three Rivers
crofs one another: one of them being carried over a bridge. The Piaz^
za  of Bruffels  is fair, and oblong in figure; upon one of the longeft fides
ftands the Tovvn-houfe, and over againft it the Kings-houfe, where up¬
on a Scafiold hanged with Velvet, Count, Egmond  and Morile  were
beheaded, the whole Piazza  being hanged with Black Cloth. Upon
the top of the Town-houfe, ftands St. Michael,  the Patron of the City,
in

11 o A Journey from  Norwich to  Colcn.

in Brafs, Count Marfins  houfe formerly belcnging to the Prince pf
O range  , hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good part of the City, but
a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunderbolt or Stone
which they affirm to have effečted it, is bigger than t\vo Mens heads,
and hangs up upon the door at the entrance. The Jefuites  Church is
handfom, and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the
top. The Carmelites  Church hath a noble Altar, and near unto the
Church is the Statua  of a pifling boy, which is a continual Conduit.
The Armory vvas well furnifhed as wc were informed, before the Go-
vernors of the low Countries fold the Arms; and Caffel Roderigo,  the
Governor, left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charles  the
fifth,ofDuke Albert,ot  the Prince of Parma,Er ne Pl us,  and of the Duke
d’Alva,  and of the Duke Allerts  horfe,who being fhot faved his Mafter,
and died the farne day twelve month ; Spears for the hunting the wild
Boar, one with two Piflols; The Armour of Cardinal Irfante,  and of an

King; A Foliji: mušket which carriesfa hundred paces; Charles
the Fifths Svvord for the making the Knights-of the Gclden Fleece,  and
Henry  the Fourtlfs Sword fent to declare war; Good Bucklcrs for De-
fence,and fome well wrought; efpecially one with the Battcl of Pjrrhus
and his Elephants ; and banners taken with Francis  King of France,  at
the Battel of Pavia.

Somevvhat like Godfrej  of Bouillons  fhooting tire three Pigcons
near the Tower of David,  is the lliot which Infanta IJalella  made,
when with an Arrow Ihe killed a Bird., in memory whereof, a Bird
pierced with an Arrpw is fet upon the top of a Tower in the Court,
which islarge; and if the New Buildingsand Defign were continued,it
wouldbevery handfome Before the Court ilands five  brafs Statues.The
Park is pleafant, with Trees fet in order, and adorned with Grottos,
Fountains, and Water-works, which come very near the Italian;  one
piece fomewhat imitating Frajcati,  in vvhich ali Mufical Inftruments
are imitated, and a perpetual motion attempted : and on the Front of
the Buildings ftand the Cajars  heads. But the Echo is moft remarka-
ble ; vvhich may perfedly be diftinguifhed to ten or twelve Replies*
The greateft Church is that ofSt. Gudula-,  in vvhich is her Statua,
the Devil ftriving to blovv out the Light of her Lanthorn. The two
Chappels therein are:remarkable; the one built by Leopoldu,  very fair
on the out-fide: the other totvards the No: th, hath been vifited by five
Kings; in vvhich is the Hoft vvhich bled being flabbed by the Jevvs. In
the Dominican  Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve  and his
Dutchefs, in Corinthian  brafs. But ,for a Nevv Church that of the Be-
gennes,  or Pious Maids, is very confiderable; there being Eight hun¬
dred of them in this City,who have a particular plače allotted tothem,
where they have built this milk-white Church. The Plague vvas much
in this plače at that time, three hundred Houfes being fhut,up and Gar-
lands placed on the doors, in the middle of vvhich

t

was vvritten I H S. I favv the Englifb  Nunnery, and other confidera¬
ble Buildings. And after I had refreflied my felf at the Fifh-Tavern,
vvhich is worth the feeing, efpecially for two Rooms in it,furniflied from
top to bottom with very good Pidures, I returned to Antvcerp.

A Journej  /rtwzNonVich to  Cokn. m

Otlol.g.  I travelled through an open Country, and lodged at Molin
Irufle.  The Špani [h  Souldiers met us uponthe Roadthisday, fome of m ^‘
them well mounted and armed, and begged ofus, and were well fatisfi-
ed witha fmall Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country
o'f Liege,  and pafled great Heaths, and on the Sixth, iri the morning ar-
rived at Maeftreicht.

Trajeftum ad Mofam,  or Maeftreicht,  is a ftrong Town, feated upon Maejtreichm
the Maes,  four Leagues belovv Liege.  The Out-works are very con-
fiderable ; the Wall is old. Tovvards the South-eaft lies a Hill ,
which arifes gently, and overlooks part of the Town. Under this
Hill is one of the nobleft Quarries of Stone in the World. To feCure
the Town from the difadvantage it might receive from this Hill,there •
was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long Fince flighted;
and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-fhot of it, and
the Baftion anfvvering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On
the other fide of the River ftands fFzde, very well fortified alfo, and
rather ftronger than Mieftreicht,  into which they might retire if the
Town ihould be taken by Storm, it being United to Maeftreicht  by a
handfom Bridge over the Maes,  confifting of Nine Arches. Ali about
Wicke  the Country is fiat: there are many Inhabitants in it, and a
handfom Glafs-houfe.

The private Houfes of Maeflreicbt  are generally covered with a
black Slat, or Ardoife, otherwife not very beautiful. The Towm
houfe is fair, feated in one of the Piazza s,  built of white Stone; it
hath Nine large Windows in a row on each fide , and vvithin is very
yvcll painted by Theodorus 'van der Schuer ,  who was Painter to
the Queen of Svaeden.  In another Piazza  is a Fountain , rows of
Trees, and the great Church. This Town waš befieged and takert
from the King of Spain  by the Confederate States in the year
1631.

Ottoler  the Seventh I dined at Gollop,  a fmall plače, and came that
night to Aken, Aix la Chapelle,  or Aquifgrane,  an ancient noble City,
the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reafon of its hot
Baths, of which I Ihall fpeak more particularly in my Journey from
Colen  to London.  Leaving Aken  I travelled towards juliers  or G«-
lick,  but it being late before we arrived, the Gates were ihut up, fo
as we went only under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near
unto Gulick  runs a lhallow fwift River, called the Roer.  At the
Mouth of it, where it falls into the Mdes,  is feated a confiderable
Town, called Roermonde,  through which I pafled in theyear 1673.
when Sir Lionel Jenkens  and Sir Jofeph Willamfton  were fent Plenipoten-
tiaries to Cologne,  in our Journey from Antiverp  to that City. We then
pafled the Country of Brahant,  by the way oiThornhaut, Weert, Rber-
monde,  and the next Night pafling by Erkelens,  lodged at Caftro,  or
Cafi er,  in Gulickland,  where there are flill the remains of an old Caftle,
formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country. Roermon-
de  is feated upon a rifing Hill, near the River Roer,  hath a Colledge
of Jefuits in it, a handfome Piazza,  and an old Abby vvith divers Mo-
numents

5 ■■

112

A  7o«rw^/?ož»Norwich to  Colcn.

numents very ancient, founded by Gerard  Earl of Guelderland.  From
this Town their Excellencies were faluted with the Guns from their
Walls, charged with Bullets. The Sfaniards  in moft places ftriving to
exprefs the higheft of their refpe&s.

From Gulick  I travelled to Celotne  , where I arrived Ottoler  the
1668.

1

A

I

FROM •‘'■•I® 1
i rfV  ?,rfl io -

Colu,  or Colonia Agrifpina,  was ancieirt(yiijhie'Ca-
P*M Chy of the G'Zyz, a people who weie at firft pof-
xZof the Cpuntrics now called Ber^  ahd Martin,
M but over-run by the Germans  next <tb, tlren\

J&jp&h  .Liputcnant ;of Ga^i,  received; titem inčo
^ ^ ^853^^ proteČTon, and; plaoed {hcm- upen this fide of the \Ro~
man  ihmr of the: llkiK^  vvfere they buiJt.titE plaC-c,
and callcd it Opldum Ziliormn,  apd the Roma*s  fcating, thettifelves herfe
for the defence of ,the Country, in Honpur of AgripfiiKa,  dtfiighttT to
Germanicus^  and wife to Claud-MS,  whofe Birth-plače it wte) gave it af-
tervvardsthe Name of Colonla-Agri^ina.  .prefent'ojtc of the

largefl, if not the greateft, of any City in Gčr^rf^JecuredJtowftrfš the
Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trcpci^s^and towards-the’Water
by a Wall of Stone The R^ine.  rendcrs it deligh-tfill tipen ope fide-and
divers rows ofTreeš enclofe the Town tovvardsthe Tan,d... >Tl«sy haVe
fome Out-works, as Ha]f-mooi.is ; and ; R^vtlinsj.huJ;thcir beft ;  fefcurit^ is
in the grčat numher ofmurvvhich they; are a‘ble to raife within thefai-
felves. Manv of the Strcc^s are broajh and pa ved with broad ftones.

Itreceived the Chrjftian Faith ycry-€ar^y,-. and wasthcir

Bilhop above r 35:0 years finc.es w ho fubfcribed, amongft others,- to the
Council of Arks.  They have a-grc-at number of Chufčh^rand weli
endowed, which take up a great part ofthe Toiv.n ; the Prcbends and
Canons Houfes having in many places Vineyards, and. largti Gardens
adjoyning. Tovvards the North end of the Tdw.fi, the Churth bf St.
Kunibald  is confiderable- The, Convent of the Domimcansm  fait, ind
newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and ;  ali the Chambers uni¬
form. The Jefuites Church is ^ell buik and flOred with rich Cnpes
Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Ghutch of St. 'Genotip  a
Saint of grčat name here, martyred about Colen  in the tiliife'of
miattus^  are about a thoufand Sainte heads, and on each bde of the Al-
tar a large Statua, whereof one ijs of a Moor; -and undcr th^Onipcano
ther Church. The Convent of the is alfo, ti^fidčfable,

O. whe’reih

114

A ]ourney from  Colcn to  Vienna.

vvherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it,
though with no fuccefs, in the year 167?. In the Church of St. Vrfula
is her Tomb, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thoufand Virgins,
mar ty red by the Hans.  Upon the Monument of St. Z>rfilla  is this In>
fcription; , T  «• ,»-•-<

Sepulchrum San Hrt Vrfultf indicio Col umi te dčtettum.

Upon many of the Tombs which are old, are Crofles and Lamps. Ma-
ny Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are alfo kept in this Church. The
Cathedral isdedicated to St. Peter,  and is very large, but notfinilhed.
The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it. The
Quire is handfome and very high: behind it are believed to be the
Tombs of the three Wife men which came from the Eaft to worlhip our
Saviour, or the Kings of Aralia,  of whom it was prophefied that they
fhould bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of Colen: Mel-
chior,  who oflered Gold, Gafpar  Frankincenfe, and Balthafar  Myrrh.
Their Bodies, as the account goes, were firft removed to Conftantino-
ple  by Helena,  the Mother of Conftantine  the Great; then to Milan  by
Eujlorfius  Bilhop thereof; and they have now refted at O/^for above
five hundred years, being tranflated from Milan  hither by Rainoldus
Bilhop of Colen,  in the year 1164. There 'are alfo divers other Monu-
ments of Bilhops, and Noble Perfons in Brafs and Stone, and one in the
Ihape of a Caftle with fix Towers. The Canons of this Church are ali
Noblemen; among whem the Duke of Neivlurg,  who ordinarily refides
at Dujfeldorff,  about twenty Englifb  miles belovv this City, upon the
Rhine,  hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to ali the Apoflles, they
lhew us a Tomb,which being opened by Thieves,intending to plunder
it, the Woman buried in it arofc up and vrent home, and lived with
her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Toucr, or
rather one Tower uporianother, which feems to be ancient, notv made

* a Prifon. Upon another Ruine alfo in the Streets lies a Tomb made
out of one Stone ; of which fort of Tombs there are many in this City
and other places; but the greateft number of them I ever faw was at
Arles  in Provence.

The Senate Houfe is Noble, having a fair Tower upon it, from
whence there is a good profped over the City. Upon the Front of
the Senate Houfe is a Man in Baffb relievo,  fighting with a Lyon, who,
as it was related to me, was formerly one of the Confuls, who having
had a conteft with fome Clergy-men about the Government of the Ci-
ty, on a fuddain they caufed a Lyon to be let in upon him: upon
which occafion he behaved himfelf fo well, as he delivered himfelf, and
flew the Lyon.

The Eledor or Archbifliop of Colen  hath two Places in the Clty,
but by agreement betvveen him and the Town, he is not to ftay
here above three days together. Only this prefent Archbifliop, upon
the coming down of the Imperial Forces, and his lofs of Bonna,  took
Sanduary here in the Convent of St. Pantaleon,  where he continued
a great while.

The City is Imperial and Free,and yet it doth Homage to the Eled¬
or, much after this Form: We free Citizens of  Colen premije to tke
Archbifhop, to be faithful and favouralle unto him as long as he preferves
- us

A  Journeyfrom  Colen to  Vienna.

& ‘ . ■ _  —  .   .   .

tu in Right and Flonour, and in our ancient Piuileges, Z>s^ dur VVives,
our Children, and our City of  Coleh. Moft of the City are Of the Ro¬
man  Church,and the vvhole Town fo ftill of Convents,Chiirches,Church-
men and Reliqueš, that it is not tindefervedly ftyled the Rome  of Ger-
wany.  The Lutheruns  havfc alfo a Church within the Wa!ls, and the
Calvinifis  at Mtilheim,  half a League down the ftteam on the other fide
of the Rhine.

Over againft Čolen  lieš Dutz,  a fmall Village, inhabited čhiefly by
Jews. The Veflels which come out of the Loiv-Countries  hither are
long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the
Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them,
into which they may be drawn,and efcape the Injurieš they \vould other-
wife fufler by the Ice in VVinter.

Befides the rich Clergy, there are many Wealthy Citižens and Mer-
Chants bere, and they maintain a Tiaffick and Correfpondence with
divers Countries, efpecialiy by the conveniehce of the' Rhine.  They
fpeak not the beft High-diitch • but Latin  and Fr ene h  are underftood
By many : Divers Hoftš in Inns fpeak Latin,  and the Servants Erenčh  j
which proves a good help unto Travdlers. It was made an Univerfity
about the year 1388. Befides the General Hofpitals for young and old
perfons, there are two fon tbe Sick, and well acCommodated. They
have a Pharmacopiea Colonienfs,  or a Difpenfatory  proper to the plače,
whereby Apothecari.es  compound their Medicinesv I was acquainted
with one of the beft, Mr. Elburg,  a 'kaowing and obliging perfbn,who
was his Late Majefty King Charles  the Second’s Ap thecary while he
refided at Colen,  and whommy hondure<3 Friend Sir Alexavder Ffafer,
his Majeffies chief Phyfician, made' ufe of, who ‘lived in great reputa-
tion in this City. ■

Two hundred years fince Atneas Sfhvias  left an high exprefiion con-
cerning this plače, Coldnia quat de c Claudii matre  Neronis, A-
grippina diltdepi, fe* ttium Magorum^ ojjibus illufrdta, nihil magnificen-
i-ius, nihil ornatiuš\ tota  Europa reperiasG  which though, if ftridly
conftrued, will hardlv be admitted by any wh<E-hath beheld Pariš, Na-
ples, Venice,  &c.- yet doth it decla^e ^hchoblenefs Of this City, even in
forrner times. ■ 3  ' ;

We left Colen  about four a Clodt in the Afttrffoon, bfeing dfawn up
the Stream with Horfeš, they being made faft by a Very lotig Rope to'
the Maft ; we lodged in a fmall Village,' havihgiliad a good profpečt
of Colen  ali this Everiing irom off thš> watbr. NeaPto this Plače Julius
Ccejar  made his Bridge oVer the Rhihe.  The ^ekt day We came to
J?čw/the Seat of the prefent Archbifhop and Elcčfor of Colen, Maximi-
liantis  //fzrržcz«, Duke of Bavaria,  Bifhop of Hildijheim  and Zžegf,and
Arch-Chancčllor of thb Empire throughout Italy.  This plače was for--
mer!y cilfed Bonna,  or Cajtra Bonnenfia,  the vvintering plače, in the
tirhe of FaeltMs,  of the- fixth Legion. It was not long fince very well
fortiHed by the order of the prefent Archbifhop, and thfe direčlion of
Colonel Bifor,  a blind man, having C at ar alt s  in both his eyes. The
Archbifhops Palače is Very Noble, and there is a Chamber feated a good
way into the Rhine,  to which they pafs thorow a Gallery. This Nigltt.
we lodged at-the foot of the higiieft of the feven Hills by the Rhine,
which are feen at a great diflance ; and upon divers of them ftaffd old
ruined Caftles. On the i^th  we pafled by a pleafant Ifland witha

O, z  Convent

. —-ml;-..

A Journey from  Colcn to  Vienna.

AntlefMcb.

Coilent^.

Il6

Convent in it: at Remagen  is alfo a Convent upon a Rock, fbrtified
with round Towers. In the Evening we lodged near to a Caftle, ruin-
ed four years before by the Elečtors of Triers  and Colen,  it belonging
at that time to the Duke of Lorrain.  On the i6th  early in the Morn-
ing we came to Andernach,  where the Plague vvas very much at that
time, and they kept a great many of their flck in Boats upon the
Rhine.

Andernach,  of old Antenacum,  was one of the Roman  Fortrefles. Up¬
on this River, fome think that Caligtda  was born, and that Talentinian
was buried thereabouts. Near unto this plače are alfo Mineral Springs,
well frequented, and much made ufe of. The Town is encompaffed
with an old Wall; and the Gates were Ih ut up by reafon of the Plague:
Notvvithftanding, there being divers Friars in our Company, feveral of
the Towns-men fent out dilhes of Meat to them, which we eat in the
Field upon Trees vvhich were laid along near the Town. This day the
paflage by water feeming tedious to us, Mr. M ulji r oh,  a worthy Ger-
man  Gentleman, with whom Itravelled as far as Sptre,wzs x\ iHing we
fliould hire a Coach together, vvhich we did, and invited the Iriars
with whom we had breakfafted, to go along with us in it to Collentz.
We pafled through a very pleafant Country, between rovvs of Walnut-
trees,  in fight of two of the Elečtor of Triers  Houfes,and near to a Houfe
belonging to the Count de Wert.

We pafled the Mofella  over a handfome Stonc-bridge of thirteen Ar-
ches, built by Archbilhop Baldus^  or Balduimu,  in the year i 344. and
Corning into the Town, we went to the Dominican  Convent, which is
pleafantly feated near the Banks of the River Mofella ;  but the Prior
of the Convent, whom we had brought with us, was fo.obliging, that
he would not part with us that night; and we were very civilly enter-
tained by him in his Lodgings: Hi invited alfo fome of the Convent
to bear us company; and after a handfome Supper, with plenty of cx-
cellent Mofella  Wine, we went to bed betvveen two Feather-beds.

Collentz,  or Confluentia,  is a Town of a Triangular Figure, feated at
the meeting of two great Rivers, the Rhine  and the Mofella,  vvhich.
make two Fides thereof, and th e  «hird; is made by a Line drawn from
one River to the other ; which is now well fortified after the moft re-
gular Modern way. The Wall vvithin thefe Works had many old high
Towers; and formerly there was another ftill nearer to the upiting of
the Rivers, and confequently containing a lefs fpace of ground: i his
Tovvn is under the Elečtor and Archbilhop of Triers., CarolusC-afpar,.Qi,
the Noble Family of the Lejen,  Arch-Chancellor for the Empite in GaT
Ha Belgica,  and the Kingdom of Arles.  It was given to, the Church
of Triers  when Medoaldus  was Archbilhop, above a thoufand years
fince, in the time of King Dagobert.  The Situation is pleafant and -
convenient, and lies over againft the Caftle of Hermanjlein,<yc E hren,
breifein,  that is, The Stone of far extended Honour;  at the foot of
vvhich Caftle, upon the Ihoar of the Rhine,  under a great Rock, ftands
a very Noble Palače of the Elečbors, two large Wings and the Front
with five Pavilions ftanding tovvards the River,and from it a fong Bridge
of Boats over the Rhine  to Collentz  .• when any great Veflel pafles by,
they let (lip three Boats, whereby the paflage lies open, and make them
faft again afterwards. In the German  Wars the Spaniards  thruft in a
Garrilon into this Tovvn; vvhich was aftervvards beatep out by the

Rhinegraaje

■ t , ‘-—- _; _ L  I ' ....

A  fournej frcni  Colen to  Vienna. 117

Rhinegrave  for the King of Sweden ; and the ftrong Caftle of E hren-
Ireit/iein  being put into the hands ofthe Fnench,  the Emperours Fotces
leized upon the Archbilhop of Triers,  who then Was Philippiu Chrijio-
phorus,  and carried him away to Vienna. \

In places where the Rhine  runs through a low Couhtry and a fat
Soyl, it wafhes away the Banks: to fecure whičh, in divers places
they have made great Works of Wood, and alfo to fecure Veflels from
thedanger of the Ice. And I remember, riding near the Banks of the
River Loire  in France,  I obferved them in fome places to be handfome»
ly defended for a long way together with Freeftone.

Near unto Coblentz,  upon a Hill, is a Convent of Carthufians. Oflo-
ber the tythwe  went up the Rhine  to Boppart,  a walled Town, upori
the weftern bank, where Van Trump  was at that time : It is a very old
Town, one of the Roman  Fortrefles againft the Germans,  called ahciently
Bodobriga ; fome  would have it called Bopport  from Beauport, FaiF
Raven,  or Bonport,  a good convenient plače for Veflels to retire into, or
to ride in.

On the i8rZ? we dined at St. Guer,  a pleafant Town belonging to the
Landt^rave  of Heffe,  who hath a Caftle here. Corning on flioar we
met with an cdd cuftom : for upon the Wall fide there is faftned a
Collar of Brafs at prefent, but was formerly of Lead, and given by
Charles  the Fifth ; into this moft Strangers that come put their Necks,
at which time they ask them, fflhether they ivill be fprinkled ivith wa~
ter, or drink mine  ? and if they choofe the latter, they give an enter-
tainmt nt of VVinetothe Company.The Queen of Siveden  pafling by this
plače, gave a great Siiver Cup, out of which they now drink at this
Ceremony. We lodged this night at VVefel,  a Town fituated between
a high Hill and the River, belonging to the Archbifhopof Triers. Here
in the Market-place they fliew’d us the print of St. Huberti  Horfes foot
in a Free-ftone. k

On the i^th  we came to Baccharach,  or ad Bacchiaras,  belonging
to the Elečtor Palatine ;  a plače famous for excellent Wines. We
pafled by an old Caftle feated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine,
being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts,  where formerly the Prince pfaittcajk.
Palatines  of the Rhine  were born, the Princefles being fent hither to be
brought to Bed. W e  came this night to Dreickfbaufen;  the next day
we went by a dangerous Paflage, there being many Rocks under wa-
ter, which caufe the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little
above this w e came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the Rhine,  called
the Moufe-to\ver,  biiilt by Hatto  Archbifhop of Mentz,  in the year 900. Mau P- T <mer.
who, as the Story goes, in a time of great Scarcity, pretending to re-
lievethe poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn,
u here he burnt them ali, faying, They mere like the Rats and Mice
mhich mottld deuour the Corn.  After which he was fo perfecuted with
Rats and Mice, that to avoid them he caufed this Tower to be built in
the middle of the Rhine,  which did not avail fiim, for they followed
him thither alfo, and at laft devoured him. A little above this lies
Bing  upon the VVeftern ihoar; a confiderable Town, belonging to the
Elečtor of Mentz : here our Boat ftayed to pay Cuftom, as it had
done alfo at Bonna, Liutz, Hammerfiein, Andernacb, Coblentz, Lode-
Jheim, Bopport,  St. Goiver, Cub,  and Baccarach.  For the trade of the
Rhine  being great, Princes and Lords, who haveTowns upon it, make

ufe

118 A Joumey from to  Colen Vienna.

ufe of that advantage, vvhich, though it abates the gains of the Mer¬
chant, brings confiderable profit to themfelves.

Blng-,  or Birgium,  was an old Roman  Fortrefs upon the Rhine.  where
the River Navus  or Naw  enters into it; over whičh latter there is a
liandfome Stone-bridge : In this Town were many of the Duke of Lor-
rains  Army fick and vvounded, who three vveeks before had maintain-
ed a fight againft the Forces of the Eiečtor Palatine,  near this plače.
From Bingvie  continued our Journey to Mentz : at Rndefl:eim  in Rhine-
gaiv,  a plače noted for good Wine, they lhewed us a Boy, whofe hair
was thickand woolly, like to the Afričan  Moors, but of a fine white
colour, vvhich being fomevvhat an odd fight, I took away fome of his
hair with me.

Ment?. Mentz, Moguntia, Moguntiacum,  and by the French Mayence,  Is feated
over againft the Confluence of the River Main,  with the Rhine,  or ra-
ther a little below it; in a fertile Country, abounding in ali Provifions
and good Wine ; it lies at length, and ismoft extended tovvards the
River; and that part excels the other tovvards the Land, vvhich is-
not fo populous or well-builtIt is a ftrong plače, and well guarded ;
it hath many Churches and Monafteries, and fome fair Buildings* efpe-
cially thofe of publick concern, as the Palače of the Elečbor, and others:
But jthe narrownefs of the Streets, and many old Houfes, take away
mudi from the beautv of the City. Itisan UnLverfity, begun about-
the. year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This plače alfo chal-
Jenges the Invention of Printing, or at leaft the firft promotion or
perfečtion thereof: And the Territory about it is famous for the de-
flručtion of the Roman  Legions under Par us,  by the Germans. ,GuJla-
fus Adolphus,  King of Stveclen,  was wonderfully pleafed upon the tak-
ing of this City, 1631. entring into it in State.upon the i^th bf De¬
cember,  it being his Birth-day, vvhich bega n the 38^ year ofhis Tife,
and kept his Court and Chriftmas  here ; vvhere at one time there wer'e
with him fix chief Printes of tile Empire, tvvclve Ambafladors of Kings,
States, Elečtors, and Princes,; befides Dukes and Lords, and the Mar-
tial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town, thcyfound
great flore of Ordnance and Povvder-; and the’ City redeemed it felf
from Pillage by giving the King a Ranfom of Eighty thoufand Dollars-
and the.Clergy and Jewsgave TWo and twenty thoufand more • of-
vvhich the Jews paid Eighteen thoufand ; Archbifhop JTh^eA/faving'
himfelf upon the Rhine,  and retiring to Colen..  The King caufed'alfo
tw.o great Bridges to be made, one over the Main,  founded upon flfteen
great fiat bottom’d Boats, the refl being built upon great Piles of Wood:
Afiothcr over the- Rhine  fupported by fixty one great Bat Boats, each
fving the diftance of an Arch from one another ; and many Fairiiliešof
people living fometimes in the Boats under the Bridge. The Bridge
over the Main  is taken away; but that over the Rhine  is flill continu¬
ed : Upon vvhich I faw the prefent Elečtor pafling in his Coach; a Per-
fon of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, baving long grey Hair, and
was very Princely attended ; his Name is Joahnes Philippui  of theNo-
ble Family of Szhoenlurg,  Elečtor and Archbilhop of Mentz,  Biihop of
fVurtzlarg,  and Bifhop of Wcrms,  Arch-Chancellor of the Empire for
ali Germany ;  the firft of the EleRioral College ; in ali publick Con-
ventions he fits at the right hand of the Emperor, and is a Succefibr of.
the famous Bomface,  an Englifh.  man, Biihop of Mentz,  who very much
promoted

A Journey from  Colen to  Vienria. iiy

promoted the Chriftian Religion  in thefe parts. But though his Digni~
ty and Plače excel the two other Eccleiiaftical Elečtors of Cole n
and triers,  yet his Territories come Ihort,- and they lienot together,
but fcatteringly with thofe of the Palatinate, Spier, Franckfort,  and
divers places in Franccnia.  'But of late he hath much encreafed his
Power, by feizing the great City of Erfurdt  in Turingia,  which hehath
fince much beautified and ftrengthned by a Cittadel built upon St. Pe-
ters-hill.

In the year One Thoufandone hundred and fourteen, theEmperor
Henry  the Fourth fent an Ambaflador to the King of England, Henry
the Firft, requefting that Maude  the Kings daughter whom he had for-
merly efpoufed by Proxy, might now, being Marriage-able, be fent to
him : to which requeft the King moft willingly condefcended,andthe
Princefs was prefently condučted by his greateft Peers into Germany,
and at Mentz  was married to Henry  the Fourth, and there Crowned

his Emprefs. .

From Mentz  I pafTed by water up the River Main,  to Franckfort,  a
free City of the Empire, called Trajettum Franconum,  a Paflage or Ford
of the Franks,  as ferving them for a Retreat, when they entred or re-
turned from Gaul’,  at prefent Franckford  upon the Main,  to difierence
it from Franckford  upon the River Oder,  which is an Univerfity : It is
a large Town, divided into two parts by the River ; the lefler called
Saxcnhaufen,  or Saxon-houfes,  united to the other by a Stone-bridge
over the Main,  of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a plače of good
Trade, and well feated for it, as having the advantage of the River
Main  which padeš by Bamberg, Schvoeinfurt, Wurtzburg, Guemund,  or
Gaudia mundi • and alfo the Taulerj&b  other Rivers running into it, af-
fords conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia-,
and the Main  running into the Rhine,  makes a large communication
both up and down that Stream. . ,

But this plače is moft remarkable for the Eledion of the Emperor,
which, by the Laws of the Gdden Buli,  ihould be in this City, as alfo
for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March  and September’,  at which
times there is an extraordinary concourfe of people from remote parts,
in order to buying and felling of feveral Commodities, efpecially fot
Books, as tfell printed here as in other parts, whereof they afiord two
Catalogues every year, and have no fmall dealings that way, by the
Fačtors of the Germans, Hollanders, It alians, French,  and Englifh : al-
though at other times their trading in Books feems not great; for
when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the Stationers  Shops
being fhut up, made but a dull ihow. Here are alfo a great number
of good Horfes bought and fold : and on the North-fide of the Citv
there is a fpacious plače for a Horfe-Fair. The City iš ftrong and well
fortified ; and moft part of the Town are Lutherans.  In the German
Wars, the King of Smeden  having taken Hanam,  fent a Meflenger to
Franckfort  to know vvhether the City vvould peaceably and
fet open their Gates unto him, and accept fairly of a Garrifon, or  ftand
to the hazard of a Siege: And although they were unwilling to' pcld,
yet for fearof the worft, they confented, That the King ihould have
free paflage for his Army through the City; and that for the better al-
furance of it, fix hundred of his men Ihould bc r čeived for a Garrifon
into Saxonhaufen;  and alfo that the Magiftrates eand People Ihould take

! 2  o A Journej from  Čelen to  Vlenna.

an Gath unto his Majefly. So that upon the. ijth  of November,  1631.
th.e King s Army pailed through Saxonkaufen  over the Bridge, quite
through the Tovvn. Co\ond Pitztbumb  was teft Governour in ,&««>»*
■haufen;  and, the King himfelf .rode bare headed through the Streets:
and by his obliging behaviour did gener.aUy win the amkSaons of the
■Hdiolders; and three days after returned.thithcr again with the Landt-
grave  of Heffen-Caffell,  and the Landtgrave  of HeffenrDarmfiadt,
vvhere they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw,  or Veteravia,  and
yverc feafled in the farne room vvhere the Emperors attheir Coronation
ufe to be entertaioed.

Irt Saxorrhaufen  there is aHoufe anciently.belonging untothe Knights
of the Teutonick  Order, vvhich hath the 'privilege ofa^ančtuary for
Mati-flayers and Bankrupts; but it is a fecuriity but for fourteen days.
Upon this fide th re is the Jargeft portion of Land belonging to Franck-
for.ti  on the otherfide very little.

This being a trading plače, it is no vvonder that there are fo  many
J.ews in it; for a diflihčiion they wear great Rufls, their Sons Bonnets,
and their Wives a peculiar drefs of their Head.

The Collegiate Ghurch ofSt. Bartholomeu,  vvhere many of the Em¬
perors havebeen crovvned, islarge, hath ahighSteep!e,and isbuilt of a
red. (Ione. There are divers bandfome Fountains in the Tovvn, and
good Houfes; in one of the beft of vvhich live Monfieur Pierre Neuf-
ville , a great Merchant, and a civil worthy perfon vvell knovvn in moli
places of Commerce;. vvho obliged me vvith Lctters to Penice,  and other
places. ' • ■ ' t

Damjladt.  From Franckfort  I continued my Journey through the Bergflraes,
■pafling by Darmfiadt,  vvhich belongs to one of the Brothers of the
Houfe of Fdejjen,  commonly knovvn by thenarne of the Landtgrave
of Hejjen Darnifiadt ; and aftervvards through a fruitful plain Coun-
try, in the fight of Hills, and fometimes near them: the vvhole Coun-
try planted vvith Walnut-trees, Vines, Cern, and in fome places vvith
Tabaco ; till larrived at Heidelberg.

In coming into this Tovvn vve pafled over the River Neccar, Nicer,ov
Necarus,  upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another, with a
large Roof of Wood: in the farne manner is the long Bridge covered at
the entrance of the City of AleJJandria della paglia  in I't'aly.

The River Neccar  arifes near the Spbva Martiana,  now Swartzwald,
The River Nec- or  jglack Forejt,  and pafling through the Territories of the Duke of Wit-
tenberg,  runs into the Rhine  at Manheim :  This, though none of the
greateft, yet is a confiderable River of Germany,  and hath diversgood
Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz^ Tubingen, Wirtingex, Effingen^ Stut~
gard, Caujlat, Lauffen, Hallbrun, Heidelberg.

There being Wars at that time when I was in this Country, betvveen
the Eledor Palatine  and the Duke of Lorrain:  The Elečtor refided for
the rpoft part at Frankendale,  to be near his Forces.

ha e er^. Heidelberg  is feated on the South-fidc of the River Nece ar,  betvveen
it and a ridge of high Hills, fo as it cannot well admit of a modern
Fortfficatiori, or hope to be extraordinary flrong, as being over- looked
tte adjatent Mountains : Itlies moft at length from Eaft to Wefl:
It hath been an Univerfity fince theyear 1346. at which time it was
begun by Rupertus,  Count Palatine,  and at prefent is much frequent~
ed.. In the great Church was kept the famous Librarv, \vhich, after
n*; that

A fournej from  Colen /0 Vienita. i 2 j!

thit the Spaniards  had taken this Tovvn 1620. vvas cafried to Rome,
ahd addedto the Vatican,  vvhere I favv it in the year 1664.  being pla-
ced Upon one fido of a very Ion,g Gallery belonging to the Eatican  Li-
brary*; and the Duke of Vrlins  Library placed on the otherfide, over
againft it: both vvhich made a notable addition to the Papal Library.
In this Church and the Church alfo of St. Peter,  are divers Monu-
ments of Princes of the Palatine  Family, and ofLearned and Famous
Men. The French  have a Church here, and the prefent Eledor is of
the Order of the Holy-Gboft ;  and his Son a Marefchal of France :  and
good French  and High-dutcb  are both generally fpoken here. The
Lutherans  have alfo a Church in this Town, by the favour of the pre¬
fent Eledor; although he himfelf be a Calvinifi  : and to exprefs his
generous kindnefs the higher in this point, the firft Stone vvas Jaid by
himfelf and his Son ; and it is callcd the Church of Providence,  accor-
ding to the Eledors Motto, Dominus Providebit.

Upon the Tovvn-houfe is a Clock vvith divers Motions, and wheh
the Clock flrikes, the figure of an Old man pulfc offhis hat, a Cook
crOvvs, and ihakes his wings, Souldiers fight vvith one another, and the
/like. The Prince’s Stables for above a hundred Horfes are feated upon
the River vcry conveniently, but vvere fairer formerly, above half
thereof having been ruined by the Imperalifls; as alfo divers of the
Statues on the out-fidc of the Caftle, vvhich is feated high above the
Tovvn.

The prefent Eledor is Carolus Ludovicas,  Son to the King of Bobe-
vnia, Frederick  the Fifth ; he vvas born in the year 1617. and pailed
his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Eledorate : and at
the pacification,at Prague  1635-. he vvas excluded from any reftitution
to be made to him.. But at length in theTreaty of Munfter  1648. he
was reftored to the lovver Palatinate^nd 1657  returned to the pofleflion
ofhis Fortunes : a highly accomp.ifhed Prince, much honoured and
beloved by his Subjeds. Tn the year 1650. he married Cbarlotta,
Daughter to VVilliam  the Fifth Landgrave,  and to the famous AmeHa
Elizabeth, Landgravefi oiHaffia-,  by vvhom he had the Cbur  Prince,
or Eledoral Prince Charles,  and a Daughter,the Princefs Charlotta Eli¬
zabeth a ; but upon fotne difcontent the Princefs Eledrefs fince returned
to herovvn Friends and Country. This Eledor is alfo Knight of the
moft Noble Order of the Garter, Great Treafurer of the Em pire,
and together vvith the Eledor of Saxony,  Vičar of the Empire,

In his Palače or Caftle at Heidelberg,  are divers things remarkable *
'a very great Tovvcr to be equalled by very fevv ; within which is a'
Theatre for Comedies This was,formerly called Trutzkaifar,  or the
Tower thatbad Defiance, or threatned the Emperor; but fince the'
Reftauration of the Eledor, there are fome Works dravvn about it in the
figure of a Star,and the olddifobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden
to be continued, and it is at prelent called Sternfcbanz,  or the Star-
fort.  By it is a handfom Garden ; in the Ditch vvhereof there was’
then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto’s and Wa-
ter-works are very handfom :*they vvere alfo making divers others,-
having the advantage of the fide of the Hill to bring down the r
Water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongft other
Fountains, that of the Lions head vvith a Frogjn his Ear, is taken no¬
tice of. The Ccllars are very large jand cooi, filled vvith Vefielsof no

R ordinary

122 A Journey from  Colcn to  Vienna.

ordinary fize; yet inconfiderable, if compared to the great Tun kept
in a great Building joyning to the Cellars; it was built by this prefent
Elečtor’s Orders, 1664. andgoesfar beyond any madebefore: It con-
tains 204 Faiders and odd meafure, or about tvvohundred Tuns: in-
ftead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber, like the ribs of a
Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Infcriptions upon
them, and fupported by carved Pedeftals. Upon one fide of it is a
handfom Stair-cafe to afcend to the top of the Veflel; upon the top of
which is a Gallery fet round with Ballifters, three and forty fteps high
from the ground.

About an Mile from Heidelberg,  between the Hills, is a fo-
litary plače, where three large Streams or Springs gulh out of the Moun-
tain, and prefently fill five Ponds, have three handfom Cafcates or
Falls, and after run into the Plain, and are ftrong enough in a fmall
fpace to turn four Mills; this is called Wotfsbrun,  or the fflolfs Foun-
tain,  from a Princefs who formerly retired into a Cave in this delert
plače, and was here devoured by a Wolf.

While I was at Heidelberg,  two Englijh  men came kindly to me,
Mr. Filter s,  and Ttmothy Middleton^ziGngmg  to Lobensfeldr Cloifter,  a
Convent formerly of the Jefuites,  but fince let out to about an hun-
dred who left their Country 1661. came tip the Rhine,  and

by the permiflion of the Elečtor, fettled themlelves a few Miles from
hence, living ali together, Men, VVomen, and Children, in one houfe;
and having a Community cf many things: They are of a peculiar Re-
ligion, calling themfelves Chriftian Jews; and one Mr. Foole,  former-
Jy Jiving at Nonvichjs  their Head. They cut not their Beards, and ob-
ferve many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think
themfelves obliged to from fome Expreffions in the old Teilament, or
from fome New Expofition of their Leaders.

From Heidelbhrg  I made an excurfion,and had a fight of -S^z/^feated
in aPlain, on the Weft-fide of the Rhine-,  a plače of Antiquity, con-
ceived to be 7/rbs Ne me tam  of old; a large plače and populous. The
King.of Siveden  in the German  Wars demoliflied the Works about it,
not willing to fpare fo great a number of his Souldiers as was re-
tjuired to Garrifon it, and make it good. It is an Epifcopal See
under, the ArchrBilhop of Mentz: there are many fair Houfes
in it, divers Ghurches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large
Tovvers. The Romanifis,  the Lutherans  and Calvinifts  preach in it at
feveral hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of
good quality, by reafon of the concourfe of perfons from other parts
of Germany,  for the decifion of Law Suits: For here the Imperial
Chamber is held, and many differences which arife in the Empire are
determined, and the Elečtors and other Princes, in fome Tryals at
Law,may be called hither. It is a fettled Court, which Maximilian  the
Firft, for the better eafe of ali perfons, placed firft at Worms,  and not
long after it was fixed at Spire,  from whence it cannot be now remo~
ved, but by the confent of ali the Eftates. Things Cognofcible in this
Court are determined by an Imperial Judge, and fealed with the Em-
perours Arms, fo that there lies no appeal unto the Emperor.

Another day 1 went to Manheim,  formerly a Village, feated at the
Confluence of the Rhine  and Neccar ; but walled about by the Elečtor
Frederick  the Fourth, and fince is much encreafed; ali the Streets
being

>x« -snr;

 A  Journey  from  Golen  to  Vienna.  125
being large and uniform, and a Noble Cittadel built; within which,
over againft the Gate, the Elečtor defigns a Palače, the Model of which
I faw : and at prefent, on the right band, there are three Pavilions of
Lodgings: in one of which lodges the Elečtor Palatine-,  in another
the Prince his Son ; and in the third the Princefs his Daughter: behind
thefe there is a handfome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen,
the Churfurfts  Miflrefs. Here are fome good Pičtures, as a Head of
Plans Holben,  and a Landskip with the Story of the Union of the
Smifters.  The Bridge over the Moat of the Cittadel into the To\vn, is
alfo remarkable, as having fix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones,
and three fmall ones on the fide There are Palifados ali along the
bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and without upon the EJpla-
nade.

From Heidelberg  I travelled to Nurnberg  in the Company of Cap*
tain Wagenfeyl,  ,who had been in the Polifh  and Hungarian  VVars, and
was employed a little before in blowing up the Caflle of Launfteyn,  be-
longing to the Elečtor Palatine,  to prevent its furprifal by the Duke of
Lorrain.  He was then employed to raife a Companv at Nurnberg,  for
the Service of the Elečtor Palatine.  I had a good advantage in my Jour-
ney by his Company; for he travelled with Authority, and was a ge-
nerous, knovving, and courteous perfon.

The firft day we travelled near to the Neccar^  in flony and rocky
way 5 and it being dark before we came to Mofpach,  the Peafants con«
dučted us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw.

The next day we came to Poxberg y  where there is an old Caflle,and
in the aftcrnoon reached Morkenthaf  or Mergetheim,  the Seat of the
Grand Mafler of the Herrhn Deutchern,  or the Teutonick Order.  The
Town is well built, hath a fair Piazza,  with a large Fountain in it, and
a Statue of one of the Grand Mafters, with a long Corridore  from his
Palače. This Order hath been of great Farne, and hath had large Pof-
fclfions, as may be feeri in the exačt Account of the Teutonick Knights
of Prujfia,  made out from the beft Authors, by my worthy honoured
Friend Mr. Ajhmole,  in his Noble Defcription of the Order ofthe Gar-
ter ; and as Lemis du Mpy,  Counfellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg^
hath fet it down. For the Knights Ternplers and of St.  John, having
fought profperoufly againft the Infidels, raifed an Emulation in fome  Ger¬
man Gentlemen, who voaited upon the Emperor  Frederick the Firjf in
his Expedition to the  Holy Land, to take the  Croifado. And lecaufe
they mere inftalled in the Church and Hofpital of  Sr.Mary at  Jerufalem,
they mere called  3 Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from thofe
above-mentionedbat in the form and colcur of their Crofs, and ivas ap-
proved by Pope  Celeflin the Third. Aftermards mhen  Jerufalem mas
taken by  Saladin, thofe Knights betook themjelves to  Ptolemais, from
ivhence the Emperor  Frederick the Second^fent them back into  Germany,
and emploptd them againft the  Pruffians and  Livonians, who at that time
v>ereftillpagaifs. But by the Falpur and Piety of thofe Knights., t^r
Souls mere brought intp Jubjection to Chriftg and their Bodies to the Or¬
der mhich began that War in theyear  12.2,0. a little mhile after thefe
Knights found themfpltes Mafters of a Country of very large Extent t
mhich obeyed the Order, till the year 15x5. at mhich time  Sigifmond,
King of  Poland, gave the inveftiture of  Profila unto  Albert Marcptefs of
Brandenburg. In the y e ar 1^6^. the Great Mafter k e čarne Secttlar a^

2,

I 24

Nurenberg.

A journey from  ‘Coleri to  Vierina.

and fook a part of the Lands fubjett to the Order, wiih the name of
Dake  o/Curland. And  Livonia havmg leen the Subjekt and Theatre of
r>iany Wars 'betxveen the  Polanders, Mufcovites, and  Swedes ; thefe taft
did at length become Mafters of it, and have it in poffeffionfiill. So that
t ‘ ere is no more remaining of the  Teutonick Ordcr, bat /orne Comman-
deries fcattered h:re and there in  Germany. And the Great Mafier hath
his Seat and Refilence at  Mergenthal.

They vvear on a white Mantle a plain black Crofs. The Dignity
of Grand Mafter is generally held by fome Great and Honourable Per¬
lon ; and in the Great Aflembly he takes plače of al Bifliopš The
prefent is the Baron of Amring; and the Grand Mafier bcfore him
was Leopold William,  only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand  the
Third.

From hence we travelled to Lauterbach,  near which we pailed
thrbugh a Wood, and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high
Hill, vvhich being much frequentcd by Pilgrims,they have made hand-
fome Rone Stairs from the bottom to the top : then to Rotenburg,  ancj
lodged at Burgperner,  and the next day by Schantzbach  we came to Fu-
rcnberg. Rotenburg  is an Imperial City, which fome have likened
unto Jerufalem  for its Situation upon hillv places and many Turrets in
it. It is Situated near the head of the River Fauber,  which may be
accounted the fecond River of Francoma,  paffing by Rottingen, Lun¬
der,  and Werthaim,  where it runs into the Main.

Nurenberg  is the faireft. City that 1 faw in Germany ;  the Houfes
moli of thena of Free-ftone, very high; and divers of them painted on
the outfide, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top; many are of fix
or feven Stories high. D,er Herr Leiler  hath one of the faireft. The
City is very populous and full of Trade, although it ftands in a barren
Country, and vvants a Navigable River. The three beft Churches are
the Hofpital Church,  lately 'built very fair; St. Laurence,  which is very
large, wi.th‘ two high Steeples in the Front; and St. Sebald  the beft of
the tliree. The Body of St. Sebald  being laid upon a Cart dravvn with
0x60; in that plače where the Oxen flocd Rili, they buried the Body,
and efečted this Church in his Memory. In t.his Church is a Crucifix
of VVbod, very well carved, and efteemed at a high rate. The Crucifix
withcut the Church is very great, and of a black colour : and fome
fancy that the Raht Herrnct  Magiftrates ofthe Town, have repofited
a Treafure within it. The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the
whole Church fo fta‘tely, that it may pafs in the firft rank of Lutheran
Churches ; that Religion being bere pračtifed in its fplendour. The
Pricft every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour,
or preaches a Sermon. The Town-houfe is well foorth the feeing :
In it the Hall is fpacious, as alfo the Chambers, and furnifhed with good
Pi&ures, and Stoves well gilded and painted with white and gold,green
and gold, dark coloured and gold, and the like. There is one Pičture
of moft of the Great Perfons in Germanj  entertained in the Great Hall;
another of the three Brothers of.^o^; one of an Elephant as big as
the life ; a piece of St. John  and St. Mark,  and another of St. Teter  and
St. Faul,  both by Albert Dur er : but the moli rare piece is that cfiAdam
and E-ve,  by the farne Mafter, with this Infcription.

Albert us Dur er Almang faciebat pofi Virgi ni s part um, s g 07.

Another

A  Journey  from  Colen  to  Vicnna,

Another excellent one is thar of St. Luke  dravving the Pičture of our
Saviour and the blefled Virgin: Over the Gate at the entrance ofthe
Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood, and painted over, with this
Infcription:

Omnia halent ortiis fuaque ircrementa^ fed ecce
Quem cernis, nuncpuam Bos fuit hic, V'it ul im.

The Caftle ftand upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes
a handfome fhow : In it are oblervable a very deep well, the Empe-
rors Chappel, his Pičfure, and the Pidures of the Eledors; good Night
pieces; and one of a man behind a white Curtain tranfparent, very
well exprefled. The Armour of Hellele van Gailbnghen  the great Sor-
cerer is here fliown ; and in the Wall of the Caftle the marks of his
Horfes feet, when he leaped from thence over the Torni ditch.

The new Fountain was not then finiflred; but the Statua’s in Brafs
made for it were excellent; the Sea-Horfes large, the Sea-Nymphs
much bigger than the life ; and Neptunept/ho  was to ftand on the top,
is above three ya>ds and a halfhigh.When I came firft into this plače, I
was not a little furprized to behold the fairnefs of the Hcufes, hand¬
fome Streets, diflerent Habits, induftricus People, and neatnefs in ah
things, more than I had obferved in German  Cities before; and no
plače hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brafs, Ivory,
Wood, vvherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate ; and there
are OfHcers to infped and enquire into the works of Artificers, that
they be true, perfed and vvithout fraud : they make ftrong and hand¬
fome Clock-work. The King of Poland  prefented the Grand Seignior
with a very noble Clock, who took fo much delight in it, that when it
required fome mending (the Turks  being ignorant in Clock-work)
he fent it from Adrianople  as far as Nurenluig  to befet in order a-
gain.

Guflavus Adolphus,  King of 5»e/ew,^asmore magnificently receivcd
and entertained in this City, than in any other of Germanj ;  which fo
jncenfed Wallenfteyn,  that he aftenvards encamped before their Town,
and did great. fpoil upon their Territories: But the King of Siveden^
marchcd thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutzen,
whe.re in a bloody Battel he loft his life.

The River Pepnitz  runnes through Nurnberg,  and hath divers Stone
Bridges over it; and Jbelow the Town, joyning with the River Red-
nitz , runs into the River Mam  at Bamberg;  and the Maiit  runs
at laft into the Rbine.  The Red uh z  arifes at Weifienberg,  and is not
far from tire River Altpiul,  which runs into the Danubtp  tovvards
Regenflurg.  Upon this convenience, Charles  the great defigned to
make a Communication of paflage between the D amil e  and the Rbine ;
and made a CanaL  thirty paces abroad betveen the Rednitz  and the
Altmul,  tojoyn thofe Streams for the commodity of Paflage by Boat,-
but after he had prooceeded two German  miles in this work, Boggs,
Rains, and his warlike Diverfions made him give over that noble De-
fign, whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the
Low Ceun-ries  to rienna^  and even unto the Euxine Sea.

The Roman  Lieutenant in Nero’s  time, had a defire to unite the Ri¬
ver Soane  and the .Mofella and to make a paflage between the Medi-
terranean

<

1 A Journej from  Colcn to  Vicnna.

terranean  and the German  Ocean ,* having bcen at the mouth of the
frlofella  by Coblentz , and pafled from Chaakn  upon the foft
and noble River Araris  or Soane  unto Lyon y  I cannot but think
thefe very goodly Streams, and fit tor fuch a purpofe. The prefent
King of France  hath a defign to unite the River Ande  with the Ga-
ronne,  and fo to have a paflage by Boat from the Mediterranean Se a  by
Jkoloufe  and Bourdeaux,  into the Ocean. When I travelled in thofe
parts, vievving the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult
wofk, and fo it proves: but the King hath proceeded already very far
therein.

About four Leagues from Nurnberg  lies Altdorff,  belonging unto
it, made an Univerfity in the year 1613. containing when I was there,
about 1 p Scholars. The Phyfick Garden is handfome, and well
ftocked with Plants, to the number of two thoufand. Dr Hoffman
the Botznick  and Anatomick Profeffour,  fhew’d me many of the moft
rare of them ; .and prefcnted me divers. The Anatomj  School
is not large ; yet the only one in thofe parts of Germany :  And they
have divers curiofities preferved in it, as the Skele ton  of a Hart, of a
Horfe, of a Man, of a Bear bigger than a Horfe : And fome Pičhires,
as one of a Ninivite,  and another of Mofes y '  which theytaketo
be Ancient. Dr. F'Fagenfeyl y  Profeffour ofLaw and Hiftory, brother
to Captain Wagenfeyl,  who travelled with me from Heidelberg,  invited
us to lodge at his Houfe, and lhew’d me his Library, and ali his Rareties
andCoyns, vvhereof he hath a good Collečtion, having lived in moft
places of Europe,  and fpeaks many Languages well; he gave me a piece
of the firft money that was cpined in Germany.  In the Univerfity Li-
brary I faw a fair Flor t us Eyjletenfis,  and Toungermans  Collečtion of
Plants by his own hand.

At Numberg  I met with the Son and the Secretary to the Holland
Ambaflador in Turky y  who had travelled hither over-land from Con-
ftantinople  in their return into the Low-Coimtries t  travelling in Greek
Habits.

From hence I went to Nemmark,  a good Town in the upper Palati-
nate  belonging to the Duke of Bavaria,  and the next day through
Heinmavo,  fubječt to the Duke of ifavberg,  to Regensburg.

Ratifbona, Regenfburg, Augujla Tiberii, Colonia Quaitanorutn y  the
chief plače of the Ramans  in tbis limit of the Empire,where the fourth
Jtalick  Legion had a conftant ftation ; was made a Colony by Tiberi-
us  in the year, as fome conceive, of the Paffion of our SaViour. It was
mucmaugtnented andadorned by the Emperour Amulphus^  who had
a great aflečtion for this plače, fo pleafantly feated, and in a good Coun-
try. Here the River Regen  runs into the Danube ;  from whence it
was called Regenjlurg.  There are two Bridges,one of wood below the
Town, and another Bridge of Rone of about fifteen Arches ; vvhich iš
the faireft Rone Bridge over the Danule.  It is an Imperial City, but
not without fome acknovvledgement to the Duke of Banana : And al-
though it be ftrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Sivedes  in the
German  wars. There are many fair buildings in it, both private and
publick ; and though I am not able to confirm what fome report, that
there as aremany Churches andChappels in this City,as there are days in
the year; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents: As the Ca-
thedral of St.Peter,on  the South-fide of vvhich is the Pifture of St. P e ter

in

A Joumey from  Golen to  Vienna. 127

in a Ihip; andon the North anotherof the Apbftles firft Miffion. In
the Piazza  ftands a tičat little Chiir6h x  the CdfiVeht. Of St:
•founded bySt. 0 r e^a^^lOidp ^ : dfthiSplace;tE€€6nveift : 6FSt. Eme-
rammus  Bilhop of Rat/.tpft»e, a SaiM  of gteat. Vcnbraticm Ifofč; though ^>tuhne f
but of little fflention op

Afogz«4f,Bifhop of this plače,hath alfoadded untp the/anfe^f^b^^^.

But that which chidly promotcs ’ its luftrčTis v 'tIi^ Gehcrhl Tret or
Parliament, \vhich is often hcld in tlfis Cityy ahd is^hOT tb^bč chlled in
aW partout of German} ;  and thb pkiee-rt ftdfifinflflfort^adčdfnmo-
dation of .fach a -noble Gonvetitibn,'aš are thč EfUtčs 1  č$'Germany.  The
Vice-MaWllal takes cake to provide 'Lodgingsf ■ their

perfons, and fees that '411 thirigš ; te brdught’ffiher/^nd iH juft ptice ;
that the Hall or Plabe of Affembly feTdtoilhdd/arAl-adorhedfuitabIy to
the dignitv of the Perfons cOnvebed, and hath ! |rti tc ^ečihl eyc and fe-
gard to\vards the Publiofc-fafetjG T$, tiiis; Cbnjrendon-''t^ie great Čon-
cerns of GermcM/^k  much fecdfedfaftel fhHf^d£lfo4dd'guiet Eftaiblifh-
ed. Wherein Ger^anj  ftferfis td !; fev%P& fettdr adVafiiage than ltaly•
For Italy  beinglifcwtfe divided intd ihžh|iDdrnifiidris^nd Pfirrcipalities
hath no Common Diet or Great Council, wherebjy to proceed fop their
Publick fafety : VVhichmakes them often fo divided in the^ čotnmon
Concerns in times ofDanger,and whenthey moftdted a joynt Com-
bination. ' :  *

I entred the notable River Danulitis  at thi§ plače, whičh hath ah
ready run a good‘eourfe, and pafted 'by ftianv fair Towfis or Citičs ♦
as the large City of ZJlme  in SivalenHand^  vvhfefe ft begins to be Na-
vigable • as alfo Donaivert, NeiA>nry y  and In^olJPadt^  and hath alrcady
received the confiderable River of Licus  or Lečk  Ghereby the' Cbm-
modities of that great trading City of arč' brouglit hlto it.

Whert I firft embarked at Regenfburg^.  thought I jnight have talferileave
of the Eanule  not far below : Eienna^sbx.  an oppprtunity made ideTee this
great Stream beyond Belgfade^l  Kave dečlareftin iahother Accdunt'  of
my Tiavels. . ' /

The firft day we pafted -by T‘honawfleyn^  'dherc there.is a Caftlc
feated upon a high Rock, and came to P'f 'eter  or Estera Caftr,a cA  old,
now but an ordinarv plače. Tile Boatš upOrf the byniiPe'^re  gerfcfally
painted black and vvhite, are fiat botrom?., and broad dt the Head atfd
Štern • there is a Chamber built ih flae middfe';' tod the Ruddet is vd*
ry large, to be able to command the Boat wli^re tHe River is fapid, and
of a Swift Courfe.

- "The next day we came to Strattling-,  a handfdtfre' idailed Town,
longing to the Duke of Bavaria ^  the Strcets are ftreight') and there
is a' Tower in the Mafket^place, painted'ali ovefwith grecn and gold
colour : There is alfo a Bridge of wood over the‘ Dan id e:  We pafted
by Sivartz  in the Afternoon, where the Chiirch is feated upon a Hill,
and isfrequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckettdarff,  there
is another Bridge. Near this Town comes ihto' the Ddtnile  that con¬
fiderable River IJer^  or IJara-,  having pafted by divers confiderable
Tovvns; as Land/liut, Fnjuig^  and Munchen,  the Seat of Ferdinandu^
Maria,  Elečtor of Bavaria,  Great Steward of the Empire, and at pre-
fent the firft of the Secular Elečtors, and he is to take plače immedi-
ately after the King of Bohemia,  it being to concluded on at the
Treaty of IdunFter y  where Maximilian  Duke of Bavaria  was allowed

to

, r —— v ■ m |- ■ ‘---.ij-- —     _ _ _ . , - , :

i2 8 A Jwrney from  Golen to  Vicnna<

to hold the Elečtorlhip, which was confirmed upon him by the Empe-
ror Ferdinand  tbe Second, when hp cjmluded Frederick  the Fifth,Count
Talatine,  and in lieu hereof there vvas.an eight Electorlhip crečted for
the Paiatinate  Family, who alfo, if the Bavarian  branch doth fail, are
to re-qnter into their ancient Elečtorfhip and the other ne\vly erečted
is to beaboliflred,

Tktirfday, Novemler  .the fifteenth, we came by IFil/hoven toPaffiiiv,
Patavia,  or Bvodurum',  a long and noble City in the lower Bavaria,
or Bayern,  madeup of three Towns, lltzjladt Paffasv,  and Innftadt,zt
the concurrenče, of the River Inn’.,  the Danule,  and theyZfz. As
Towns ,^re commonly of great Antiquity whieh are built at the Con-
fluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and conveni-
ence qf Commerce ;'fo is this accounted ancient, as being a Rcman  Co-
lony, and the plače of the Ca/ira Batava  in o|d time.

The Church of Št. Stepken  is ftately, befides other fair Churches.
The Bifhop, who is Lord of the City, hath aflrong Palače upon a Hill ;
his Revenues are large,and befides what he poflefles hereabouts, he
hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg  in Ca-
rinthia.  This plače h.ad lately fuflcred much by fire; but a good part
tvasrebujlt, and very fairly ^ftcr the Italian  manner: So thatthis may
well be recKoned as one of-the ten confiderable Citics, which are upon
the Danubi,  accounting from Vime  unto Belgrade,  as Vime, Ingoljladt,
Bati slone, Paffaiv, LpntZ) F tern a, Preslurg, Strigonium, Buda, Belgrade^
dl which from Ratislone  I had the opportunity to fee before the endof
my Journey. Near toji Wall oyer againft the great Church at Paffam,
which was then repairing, I faw .a vali: Head cut in Rone, the Mouth
whe^eofwas two fpans wide, and the reft proportionable. The River
7/fz,’whicliruns in here from the North, is confiderable for the Pearls
vvhich are found in it; and .the noble River Inne  or Oenus,  from the
South, is the greateft River vvhich hath yet entred the Danule ; having
pafled by ‘Inflrug,  and taken in the River Saltz,  upon vvhich flands
S alt zlu'g',  and arifing ih the Alpe s  in fuch a high Country as Ti roli s,
it runs in here with a great force, ^and c *adds much unto the fsviftnefs
of the Danule.

Upon the Sixteenth we came to Lintz,  the chief City in the higher
Auktria.,  not very great, but as neat and handfome a City as moft in
Germanj.  There is in i.t a very great Market-place, with never a bad
Houfe in it, the vvhole Town built of a very white Free-ftone; and the
Caftle upon the Hill is of Mordern Building, and very large. There is
alfo a Bridge over the Danule.  The Impenal Forces rendezvoufed here
when Scljman  came to Vienna.  This was alfo befieged by the Peafants
of Auflria  in the time of Ferdinand the Second; they having got a Bo-
dy together of Forty thoufand men, and many piecesof Ordnance, but
were ftoutly repulfed after many Aflaults, and at laft overcome by Pa-
penheim.  Not far below Lintz  the River Draun  enters the Danuhe •  this
comes from the Gemundner Sea,  or Lacus Felicis,  pafling by Lampack,
tfeltz,  and other Towns ;  and hath a noted Cataract or Fali of Waters.

The

«t i ' a '

A Journey from  Colcn to  Vienna, 12^

The = voole in the Danvbe, I Olu> a r  77

The next day we pafled by Ens, Anifa,  upon the River Anifius,  or
Onafus,  which taking its original in thc Borders of Saltzlur^land  runs
into the Danule,  and divides the higher from the lower z?«//rzb,having
receivedinto it felf the River Salt-za,  upon which ftands Cell,Qr
Maria Celi,  a plače of the greateft Pilgrimage in Auflria.  Near this
Town are many Roman  Coyns and Antiquities found, and Lauriacum
ftood of old, a Roman  Garrifon, and afterwards a Biihop s See: we came
to a Village on the North ihoar of the Danule,  called Greim,  where
the Graff uon Leichtenffeyn  hath a Houfe. A little below this are two.
dangerbus paflages in the River; the one called the Stradel,where  the
River running amongft vaft Rocks,fome under vvater, and fome above,
the waves are broken with great force, and the Current is rapid,
foaming, and troublefome ; and fome škili is required to paiš between
the LedgesofRocksvvhich are under water, and when the water is

S low

A Journey from  Colen to  Vienna.

low the paflage is very dilHcult- The other is the VVurlel,  or a kind
of Whirlpool, vvhere the vvater turns about with great force, being
hindred in its direčt Courfe by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high
craggy Rock ftands a large Crofs, and at the foot a little Church
dedicated to St. Nicholas,  who is Patron of this dangerous plače, and
is believed to take peculiar čare of fuch as pafs this way, and therefore
a little Boat comes to you as foon as you are out of danger, and re-
cieves vvhat Acknovvledgment you pleafe, or vvhat perhaps you may
have promifed to give, when you vvere in fome fear. This night
we lodged at Ipfium,  or llifta,  a Tov n on the South-fide of the
Danule  : over againft it lies Befenleug,  or Tjftlium Ptdomai.  Two
German  miles belovv Ips  ftands Pechlarn,  conceived to be Arlape  in
former times; and here the River Erlaph  enters the Danule  : A mile
and a half belovv this lies Mehke, Nomale,  or Me a dialečta,  in former
days the Seat of the Marquefles of Auftria,  until St. Leopold  removed
to Kalenlerg,  and his Succeflours to Vienna.  The Tovvn lies at
length upon the South-fide of the River; but the noble Cloifter of
Benediftines,  which takes plače of any other in Avftria,  ftands upon
a Hill vvhich over-looks the Tovvn, the River, and the Country about;
is richly endovved, and remarkable for the Monuments of many great
Pcrfons ;  and the Tomb of St. Colman,  much honoured in thele parts.
We dined at Stepn,  vvhere there is a Bridge over the Danule.  Near to
this lies Crembs,  another vvalled Tovvn; and over the vvater Mautern;
and not far from it the rich Convent of Ketmein  ; Afrer this the River
Traifn,  or Lragifama,  comes in from the South. Having pafled by
the ncted Tovvn St. Pold,  or St. Hippolitus,  we lodged this Night at
Sr. Eldorff.  and the next day pafled by Thuln, Stockerau,  and Cloifter
Neuhirg.to Vienna.

I E NN\A, or Wien,  whichtlle7h/G call P.eacN,
is the Čhief

eight Degrees, twenty Minutes,. 'not. rhuch 'diftering
from the Latitude of Pariš.  The old Seat df the
Dukcsof Anjina,  and Tor a loiig time 'of thfeRmpe-
ro rs of GTrwd«y.AcCording to ančienf accouut it.fhtnds .
in pMtmia Juperior,  tile Bouhds of ‘Pimnona dkfend-

ing unto Kakmber^,  or Moni Citius,  five or (iX.Mi!es We$Wardof
JLenna-,  beyond which ftill Weftward ali that lies hctvvecn that Hill
and thegreat River Oenus,  or Inne,  which runs iji^tlie franule  at 3^/-
faw,  or Cajlra Batava,  was anciently ! called Nor Pum.

It was an ancient plače of Habitafiori in the time of the Romans,
tfa&C&\o&Pindol><rtiA->  as the Learned Petrus IJambeciuš  hathat large
declarcd, where the C/tf/j IJlrica  fothetimes lay, and the tenth Ger¬
man Legi on  had its ftarion ; dll this fhoar or fide of thd L) amil e  beihg fa-
mousforthe A&ions of Roman  Emperors againfl the 'Marcomanni  and
Quadi,  who poflefied the Cbuhtry ori the dther fide ofthe RiVer, and
efpecially fot the Warš of Marcus Aurelius Anioninus PbilofoplM y  \vho
notably defeated thofe Nations, and who, as ''Aiirtliih Vittof (  who
wasGovernor of Sirmiufri  in Panrionid inferior,  in the time of Conftan-
tius'}  affirms, fell fick at Carmmtum,  ndw Petronel 9  and died at
Nindolona,  now Vien^a.  And to confirm the Antiquity hereof, befides
what Woifgangm Lazius  hath delivertd, not many years fince fome
Antiouities were fotind. For in the year i66x. when a WaH dig-
ged up near the old Palače,"the Workmen diggtng ftill on below the
Foundation, found a Stone Trough of Coffiff, containing hard Earth
and Bončs, with a finali Gold Coyn, a Glafs Urn ehclofed in a Brafs
one, an Iron Knife like a Sicefirita,  or Knife ufed aboiit Sacrifices, a lit-
tle Roli or Scroll of pure Gold, fhut up with a Golden cover at both
ends, wherein was an Infcription in ftrange Charačters: Not far from
the Sepulchral Monument were found a Head in Brafs, a Brazen Pate-
ra,  Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other Veflels, and a Copper Coyn of
Antoninus Caracalla.  The vvriting in the Golden Scroll, which no
man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambeciiu  to be the
old Pannontan  Charačter, and that this might be the Monument ot
fome Pannonian  Prieft in the days of Caracalla^  who, as good Authors
deiiver, fpent fornc time about thefe parts.

•* A° • -

S z

It

1^2 dl Defcription of  Vienna.

It is feated on the South-fide of the Danv.be,  on the ripa Roman a,
that fide neareft to Rome,  and many Roman  Colonies, according to the
ufual pofition of Roman  Stations, both upon this River and the Rhine,
as may be exemplified in Colen, Bonna, Andarnach, Coblentz, Ments,
Wormes, Spier,  and Strafburg.  And in like manner in the old Roman
Stations, on the South or Roman  fide of the Danube,  which were in no
fmall number in or near the Auftriah  ihoar, as Carnuntum,  or Petronel,
Vifchmund,  or Aquinoftium, Eberjdorff,  or Ala Nova, Melck,  or No-
male, Arlape,  or Pechlarne, Lentia,  dr 'Lintz ; for hereby they better
fecured their Conguefts, and hindred the incurfions of the Barbarians
before them. . ; . • "

It is not feated upop the main Itream of the Danube^M.  by a branch
thereof; for the River running through a lo\vCouritry ; it is divided
into feveral Streams, and makes many Iflands. A fmall River named
Wien  runs by the Eaft part of this City, and enters the Danube,  below
it, which upon fioods doth often much hurt, yet fometimes low and
very ihallow, fo as F have ftepped oyer it; fome will have it to ghfe
the Name urtto this City: it divides part of the Suburbs from it, and
hath divers Bridges oyer it. For that vve may have a diilinčb appre-
henfion of Pienna,  we mufi: confider theCityand Suburbs thereof^
the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houfes, Gardens,
Walks and ali Accorpmodations at large.

The City it felf is that walled and fbrtified part, defigned not only
for convenience of Habitation, but alfo to fufiain a Siege, or any At-
tack from the Turi,  and is now feparatcd from the Suburbs by a fair
Efplanade,  jor open Grouhd, above a Mušket fliot over. The Houfes
near the w.all were pulled down fince the laft Fortification in the Turkifb
war,w.hcn they were in fome fear that the Turkifb  Forces about Gran
and Nerv-hufel,  would move toivards them. It is fortified a la moder¬
na,  with ten Baftions tovvards the Land, and a very deep Ditch, into
which they can let the Danube  : and with two other Bafiions tovvards
the water, on that part of the River which lies on the North-fide of
the Town. Thefe two latter are called the Works of Gonzaga. The
Baftions are large; upon one of them I faw Count Souches  mufter a
good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep,
into'which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept
dry, left they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two
vvalls, the one old and invvard, little confiderable at prefent, built at
firft with the ranfom of our King Richard  the Firft, who in his return
from the Holy War, was detained Prifoner by the Duke of Auflria
upon the zof h  of December,  1191. The Aujlrians  pretending they had
received fome affront from the King at Joppa,  and that he had taken
down the Enfign and Banner of Duke Leopold  in a contemptuous way.
The other outvvard of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with
Brick, edged with Free-ftone, fo  well built, as to render this City one
of the moft confiderable fortified places in Europe.  The Efplanade
gently defcends from the Town for three hundred Paces; there are
very few Outworks.

It is very uncertain who was the firft Builder of Tienna,  and after it
had been long built it ran to decay again for Four hundred*years toge-
ther, till Henry  the Firft, Duke of Aujtria,  in the year 1158. did much
repairit; and the ranfom afterwards of King Richard  beautified it.

. / The

A Vefcriptioti  cf Vienna.

The whole compafs, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Cir¬
cuit, but the City it felf, which is walled in, may be about three mileš
in Circumference, and is exceeding populous, as full of People, fdr the
bignefs of the plače, as moli of the great Cities; And I could not but
take delight to behold fo many Nations in it, as Turks, Tartdrs, Gra-
cians, Tranjflvanians, Selakom ant, Hungarians, Croatidns^ Spaniardsj
Itahans, 'FreM, Germans, Polanders, &c.  ali in their proper Habits.

The chiefGates are fix : i. Stubnthor,  or the Stuben G at e  tovvardš
the Eaft. a. Karntertbor,  or the G at e of C ar Mia  tovvards the South.
3. Burg hor,  the Town Gate,  or Cafi le Gate. 4. Schottenthbr,  or the
Scotch Gate. 5. Neivthor,  or the Neagate;  thefe two laft tovvards the
Weft: And 6.  the Gate of the red Tower  towards the North, which
leads unto the Bridge over the Danube : and tovvards the water-fide
there is alfo a Port by the Emperors palače,and a Cloyftcr or Nunne-
ry in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port,  Or the
Gate of Heaven.  The five firft of thefe Gates are vaulted and arched
with long paflages through the Town-wall, and have good Bridges of
Wood, with Dravv-bridges to pafs over the Town ditch : The fixth is
under a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danule : For that Rivef
runs bere in a fiat low Country,divides its ftreams, fo that to palš it
cjuite over, there are at prefent ieven long Bridges made up of rtiany
thoufand Trees laid one by another, after their way of making Bridges.
There is alfo a Bridge vvithin the City of Vienna,  called the Hochbrug,
or High-bridge,  which is made by the croiling of two Streets at equal
Angles; the ground of one ftreet being as high as the tops of
the Houfes of the other, fo th t to continue it,they were forced tobuiid
a Bridge or Arch in the Loiver flreet,  to let the upper to pafs over
it.

The City is fairly built of (Ione, and well paved ; many Houfes are
of fix ftories high ; they are fomewhat fiat roofed after the Italian
way ; the Streets are not narrow, but the compafs of ground will not
admit them to be very broad ; and their Buildings are remarkable both
above and below ground; their Cellars are very deep. To fatisfie my
curiofity, l went into fome of them, and found four Cellars one undet
another; they were arched, and had two pair of Stairs to defčend into
them. Some have an open fpace in the middle of each roof, to let the
Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the loweft an adit  or tu¬
be  unto the top,to let the Air in and out from the ftrcet, fomewhat af--
ter the manner of the Mineš.

PEnaas Sjlvius,  about two hundred years fince, commending the
City of Nurnburg,  among other expreffions lets fall this: Cuperent Sco-
torum Reges  tam egr egi e quam mediocres Cives  Norinbergenfes habitare.
The Kings of the Scott  would be content to dwell fo well as the mid¬
dle forts of Citizens of Nurnburg.  I muft confefs, when I firft entred
Nuritburg,  1 was much furprized to fee fuch a noble, large, fpruce,rich,
and well built City: but Pienna  doth alfo deferve the comraendation
which he affords it: Vbi Palatia digna Regibus, ® Templa qu<£ mira*
ri  Italia poffit.  Where there are Palaces fit for Kings, and Churches
which ltaly  may admire. And this being fpoken fo long ago, is now
better verified of it. . . . < r -n.

The Imperial Palače is very Noble, Subftantial,and Princely iurnilh-
«d, confifting chiefly of two Courts; the one very large,the other lef-

A De/criptivn  of Vicnna.

fr

v

im .

...

0301 bfI3’Ji
tifiJ jsl Oj

fg4

ter,* whefem tihe -Emperor lodges. At the Entrance over the Gate, are
fet dfl Capi tab Letders the five Vowels, AjE,  Z, O, V >,  vvhereof th®
Phancicjof men make various interpretations. That tvhich was told
me; w«S .this,: Aitfiritf efir /mperare Orli Ž/itititrfo; or, Alles Erdreich
IJi .QfterreichVnterthan-, i. e.  AH the VVorld is lubječt to Auftria.  Al-
though I could hardly believe this was the fitftintended meaning. Be*
Fidesthefe tvvo Courtsis another fmall one, \vhcre fome of the Pages
fodge. /: I took notice ofa large rough JaJpis  flone lying upon the
grottnd, little regarded or obferved : it is about nine foot Diameter; it
pttfented unto the Eraperor by the Archbifhop cf Salizlar&whofe
Country affbrds notable Quarries, and ftones ofmany forts; a little
piece of. it polifotd, -hflbrds fine yellow, red^ black, and white Veins.
The Palače of the Count/•/<? Draun,  and that u hich Count Rotbalhtth
lately built and nobly furnifhed, ure very confiderable ; with many
others. / . !•

Therp are alfo many fair Churches, rich Convents, and Conventual
Churehes; as that of the Carmelites^  of the Francifcans,  of the Be*e-
diHiner^  of St- FUcbolas ;  In this Church I could not but take notice
of the late Sepulchral Monuments of Count Strozzi  and Cardinal Ha'
racin  The Dcminican  Convent is very fair. The Augaftines  have a
large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after
the manner of the Hoiy Houfe at Loretto;  upon the top ofvvhich
bang the Colours taken from the Turks  and Tartars^  many of which
Enfigns are not fquare like ours, but made Efcucheon-wife, fome filled
With Gireles, wherein are expreiled halfMoons. The Jefuites  Colleges
arelirge, who feldom fail of noble Convents, efpecially in places where
tbey InVt fo good fcotingas in tliis. The Front of one of their Colleges
opens into a fair Piazza,  in the middle whereof flands a large and
high compolite Gokton of Copper upon a Pedeftal of vvhite done, with
fouf Angels with Efciicheons, and on the top the blefled Virgin ; Im
fcriptlbns alfo, ita hich the Emnerotr dedicates Auffria  unto her Patro-
nag® artdTuition. ■’-> ■

 A D&firipi'07i of  Vienna.

C o himne
Colleae. i

lohn Oliuer (Fec it

In another Market-place, where the Town-houfe is, there is a handfome
Statua  of Juftice in Copper.

I could not but obferve the Scotch  Church and Cloifter, which gave
alfo the nameunto the Scotch  Gate of the Qity, becaufe I fomewhat
wondred hov/ the Scots  in old time fhould be fo confiderable in this
plače ;but I found by Information, and the Account of Lazim  and Mat~
thcEus Merian  in /Ligh-dutcb^  that this Convent was in former times a
great Receptacle for the Scots  in their long Pilgrimage unto JeruJalem,
founded

rr\

6 A Defcription of  Vienna.

founded and endowed by Duke Henry  the Firft, in memory of St. Gre-
gory  : and it may feem lefs ftrange that the Scots  fhould have a Con-
vent here, and be numerous in thefe parts in former Ages, if we confider
that St.Colman,one  of the Saints of the greateft Veneration in this Coun-
try,was a Scotchman,  and faid to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland^cho
in his paflage to 'derufalem  was murdered by the Baurs  or Country
people at Stdckerau,  four German  miles from Fienna,  and hanged on a
Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorrupted for a
year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken
down, and honourably interred near Stockerau;  but by Megtnhard
Billiop of Aichšiadt  it was tranflated unto Melk,  and aftervvards fent
into Hungary,  and his Head kept a long time at Stullmeiffenlurg,  or
Alba Regalis,  according to the Account which is here given of this
Saint.

The Church of St. Peter  is alfo confiderable, not for its Splendor but
Antiquity, as being accounted the oldeft in the City, ftanding in a plače
where in old time there ftood an Altar in honour of Domitian,  called
Ara Plaviana.  In this Church lies the Body of that famous and learn-
ed Pcrfon Wolfgangus Lazius,  v ith this Epitaph or Infcription .-

Magnifico Nalili Clariffimo atque fumma eruditione ornatijfimo <vi ro
Domino  Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philofcphice atque Medicina Dottori &
Profeffori Primario^ Celelerrimi Archigymnafii  Viennenfis Reclori &
Superintendenti  C^fareo, ® ejujdem Sacra  Čsfareas Majeft.  Ferdinandi
Sanfltijjimte memoria Confiliario & Hiftorico Peritiffimo defantto Anno
Domini  M D LXXXVI. •' ‘

In the Church of the Capucines  Convent, are interred the Emperor
Matthias  and his Emprefs, and the Emprefs Maria.,  wife to Ferdinand
the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, chofe to be buri-
ed in a Church of this poor Order. And the Capucines  not admitting
of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of
other Orders, no Tombs are erečted worthy fo great an Emperor, and
fuch Emprefles. s

But the Cathedral Church of St. Steplen,  contains divers Monu-
ments of many Princes and Great Perfons, and is a large ftately Build-
ing, but fomevvhat dark by reafon of the thick painted Glafs : not co-
vered with Lead, but with Tiles of wood, which is the only blemifh
thereof, yet makes a good fhow. The Steeple and Spite are . very re-
markable, as being high, large, ftrong, and handfome. On the top or
Weather-cock-plače of the Spire ftands a Crofs under a Star and half
Moon, according to the Figure I have elfewhere fet down, which the
People think to be of Gold, or at leaft very well gildcd : and in the
time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitifh.

They have this Account how thefe came firft fo be fet up in this
plače: That when Solyman  the Magnificent ftefieged Fienna,  percei*
ving the Forces in>BelCtty’ ra' be dbftinate, lie had an inteht to bat-
ter the StcepleabaUt their ettrs > But fome of the and J
great Commandm, advertifing; him how unprofitable ž bufineft it
would prove, and withd when he took the Čity, what an honour it
would be unto him to have fuch a Noble Pyramid in his Dominions:
He ftnr word into the.Tovvn, That he was v^illfiftg toff»are fW Steeple,

U p rn .

A  Defcription  o/Vienna.


upon condition that they would fet up the half Moon and Star (the
Turkijl  Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned Anfvver that
they would,if he would fend the farne unto them ;which he did 3 and they
placed it where it ftands.

This Spire hath the largeft Crockets I have obferved in any, they
being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spite
of Land/bute  in Bavaria,  is accounted the higheft in Gerwtany ;  that of
Strasburg,  the neateft and faireft; and this of Viema  the largeft and
ftrongeft. And thercfore it is no wonder,that when the Ambafladors
of Bojna  formerly came unto Vienna,  they fo often viewedand admired
this Fabrick, and plainly faid,That ali the mony in their Country was
not fufficient to have built it.

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred fiXty and five foot
high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight fteps.
Befides other Hills, I could fee Haimlurger  Hill within two miles of
Presburg,  and a great part of Auftria,  which the long Courfe of the
Danube  rendred very pleafant and delightful into the eye. In the
Chamber or Roorri from whence I had this profpečt, there is a Clock,
vvhofe Cafe being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning, and
therefore there is water always kept in this plače to extinguilh the fire,
and a man continually vvatches in the plače where the Beliš hang.
There is alfo an Inftrument of wood, or wooden Beliš or Hammers,
which they make ufe of from Good~Friday  till EaJler-fundaj,  ali the
time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permit

no Beliš to ring.

Ai

t’fo?bmrl :

: '. -h

J b

i 3 8

A Defcription  o/Vienna.

At one of the doors of the Church tliere is a done placed in the
wall, which is generally conceived to be one of the flones wherewith
St. Stephen  was ftoned. Ic feemed to me fome kind of pebble, and
is worn and polifhed by the hands of the people, who when they enter
at that door, do touch it with their fingers I was alfo lhewed one
of the ftones which killed St. Stephen  at St. Sernine^  or St. S at urn in e s
Church in Tholoufe  in France^  which is a Church abounding vvith Re-
liqup-Rareties, and where thcy alfo thinkthey have the Bodies of fe-

ven

A Defcription of  Vicnnd. 

Ven of the Apoftles, of St. George,  of our King St. Edmund,  and of for-
ty Saints.

In this Church of St. Stephen,  befides many Monuments of great
Princes and famotis Perfons, divers learned meri haVe Sepulchral In-
ftriptions ; as Johannes Faler,BiJbop of Nienna ; Johannes Čufpinianuš,
and Sebajlianus Tengnagelius,  formerly Library-keeper, Hiftoriogra-
pher, and Councellor to the Emperour, an extraordinary learned man,
and skilful in fifteen Languages,as the Infcription delivers; as Helreiv,
Syriack, Chaldee, Perjian, Arabick, Turkijb, AEthiopick, Greek, Latin,
Italian, Frencb, Spani(h, German, Belgick,  and Englijh.

The Univerfity of Flenm  is alfo remarkable, if wc confider the An-
tiquity thereof, the numberof Scholars tličir courfe of Studies, their
accommodations, privileges and advancements. This is faid to have
been begun by Albertin  the Third, above three hundred years part ;
and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have beeri borrowed from the
Univerfity of Pariš,  and the Studerits vVere dirtinguifhed into four
Divifions or Nations ; who, befides the General, have their particular
Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the Clajjis  of Au-
jlrians,Nit\or\so[  the Rbine, Hungarians,  and Saxons.

In tiie Aujlrian  Divifion were contained the Frmlians,  ali of the Dio-
cefe dsTrent,  ali Italj,  with the other Provinces beyond the Moun-
tains.

In the Clajjis  of the Rhine  vvere comprehended Suevians, Alfatians,
Franconians, Hajjians ;  alfo ali the Provinces to the South-vveft, as
France, Spain, Navarre, FF lland, Brabant.

In the third Clajjis, m Natio Hungaria:  contained Hungarians,

Bokemians, Polonians, Moravians,Sclavonians,z\\  that fpeak the Sclavo-
nian  Tongue, and alfo Germans.

To the Clajjis  or Natio Saxonum,  vvcre reduced SaxonsjVeftpbalians,
Frijlanders, Turingians, Mifnians, Brandenburgers,PrujJians, Livonidns,
Lufatiahs, Pomeranians,  with the TJltrflmarine  Kingdoms df E^gland,
Scotland, Ireland, Siveden, Noriva},  and Denmark.

Thefe Divifions take up ali the Nations of Europe ; and indeed
there are Students here of many Nations: and upon Conteritions and
Differences the fcveral Claffes  \vill hold unto their o\vn, and take parts,
and bandy againft each other, but will ali unite and hold together in
differences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen fometimes
unto an high degrce.

Theyfollow here the old beaten Way of Knowledge : and I met
with few wllo had any good infight in new Phildfopby;  but there are
rriany good Philologers,  and are well verfed in Languages, Hiftory and
Antiquity : and there are mariy Learned Meri either educated here,
or come from other parts.. Some who had taken notice of the Royal
Societj  in London,  werfe very inquifitive after it; and when I had fa-
tisfied them in ali particulars, were very much pleafed therewith. If
they Ihould fall into the way of Experimental Philofophy,  being Very
induftrious, ’tis vefy probable they may do much therein,and they were
fure to have the countenance of the Emperor. I found them alfo
much affečted with the Englifb  Socicty in other parts of Germany.  At
the Univerfity of Altorjf  l was much enquired of čoncerning it: and
a Magiftrate of Nurnburg,  who had got a Tilejcope  from London,  invi-
ted me to bis Houfe, to pradice the wy of ufing it. Der Herr voh

T z - Adlerjbeln.č

140

A Defcription  o/Vicnna.



Alderffelmc  of Leipfick,  a Perfon of great Curiofitv, was vcry inquifi-
tive after the farne S'dety.  And of late years the Curiofi  of Germany
have held Learned Conventions and Correfpondence,and printed their
Olfervations  at Leipfick.  And fince my Return into England,  I have
been follicited from Caffovia  in Ztppcr Hungary,  to fond the Tranfattions
into thofe Parts.

During my ftay at Vienna,  I went unto a publick Anatomy of a
Woman that was behcadcd : the Le el ure la sl e d  fo long, that the Body
was Nineteen days unburied. It was performed by a Learned Phyfi-
cian, Dr. Wolfftregel,  who read in Latin  to the fatisfačlion of ali per-
fons. W.hat I moft particularly obfcrved therein was this, The Pyra-
midal Mufcles  very plain and large ; the TJterus  larger than is ufuallv
obferved ; the Cartilago Enfiformis  double; the Lungs  very black;
the Eye  was vcry well fhown ; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory,
and another large one of Paftbcard and Paper, contrived and made by
himfelf; the Mufcles  of the Pharynx i  Larynx, Os Flvoides,  and the
Tongue,  after their diflečtion, he reduced very handfomly into their
proper places again to lhew their natura! fituation and pofition. The
Ana , omy-fheatre  was of capacity to receive above an hundred perfons;
but of Anatomy-Eheatres,  until of late, there have been few in Ger-
many,  or none. And when I was in the Anatomy-School  at Altorffpt^
Nurenlurg,  that learned civil Profeflbr, Dr. Mauritius Hoffman ^,told
me that the farne was the Firft in Germany.

Paulus de Sorlait,  Prime Profeflbr, Phyfician unto Eleonora  the Em-
prefs Dowager, and Knight of Hungarp,  was the Retior Magnificus.
Zivelfer,  who writ Animadverfions upon the DifpenPatory of Aushurg,
was in great repute in Vienna,wd  had built for himfelf a Noble Houfe
in the City, but he died fome time before my coming thither.

In fine, the Univerflty is noble, their Advancements confiderable,
their Privileges great, and they have the power of life and death,
from Ancient and later Conceflions of their Dukes and Empe-
rors.

But the greateft luflre unto ffienna  is the Refidence of the prcfent
Emperor Leopoldus  he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto
the Emperor Ferdinand  the Third ; he was baptized by the Names of
Leopoldus, Jgnatius, Francifcus, Balthazar, Jofephus, Felicianus.  His
eldeft Brother Ferdinand.,  King of the Romans,  died of the Small Pox
in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus Jofephus,  Mafter of the
feutonick Order,  dyed 1662. He married Margareta  Infanta of Spain y
daughter unto King Philip  theFourth, whofe Children diedlnfants;
avertuous, aflable, grave and worthy Prince, and feemed to me to
live very happily here, in the love and honour of his People, Soul-
diers, and Clergy.

His Perfon is grave and graceful; he hath the Auftrian  Lip re-
markably, his Chin long, which is taken for a Good Phyflognomical
mark, and a fign of a conftant, placid, and little troubled mind. He is
conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of fcur of his Predecef-
fours, that is of Rudolphus  the Firft, of Maximilian  the Firft,of Charles
the Fifth, and Ferdinand  the Firft. He was very affečtionate unto his
Emprefs, who, though but young, was a modeft, grave Princefs,
had a good afpečt, was zealous in her Religion, and an Enemy unto
the Jcws. He fliewed alfo great refpečt and obfervance unto the

Emprefs

A  Defcription  of  Vienna. 141

Emprefš Dowager Eleonora,  who was a fobcr and prudent Princefs,
well skilled in ali kind of curious Works, and delighted, fometimes to
fhoot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coacb.
He was alfo very loving unto his Sifters, beautiful and good Princefles ;
vvhereof one, the eldeft, was fince married unto that Noble Prince
Michael Wifnowitzski,  King of Poland.  And afterwards to Charles
Duke  of Lorain.

He fpeaks four Languages, German, It altan, Spanifb,  and Latin.  He
is a grčat Countenancer of Learned Men, and delights to read, and
when occafion permits, will pafs fome hours at it. The worthy Pe¬
trin Lambecius,his  Library Keeper, and who is in grčat efteem with
him, will ufually find out fome Books for him which he conceives
may be acceptable. While I was there he recommended a Tranfla-
tion of Religto Medici  unto him, wherewith the Emperor was exceed-
ingly pleafed, and fpake very much of it unto Lambecius,  infomuch
tjiat Lambecius  asked me vvhethcr I knew the Author, he being of my
6wn name, and vvhether he were living: And when he underftood
my ncar Relation to him, he bccame more kind and courteous than
ever, and defired me to fcnd him that Book in the Original Englifh,
which he vvould put into the Emperors Library : and prefented
me with a neat little Latin  Book, called Princeps in Compendio,  writ-
ten by the Emperors Father, Ferdinandus  the Third.

He is alfo sldlful in Mufick, compofes well, and delighted much in
it, both at his Palače and the Church, which makes fo many Mufici-
ans in Vienna ;  for no plače abounds more with thcm ; and in the E-
vening we feldom failed of Mufick in the Streets, and atour Windows:
And the Emperors delight herein makes the Church-men take the
greater čare to fet ofF their Church-Mufick, for he goes of-
ten to Church, and not to one, but divers, cfpecially the beft Conven-
tual Churches: and in his own Chappel fome of his own Compofiti-
ons are often play’d. He hath alfo excellent Mufick in his Palače,
both Vocal and Inftrumental ; and his private Chappel is well ferved,
where befides the excellent Mufick, there are always eight or ten
Counts, Pages to the Emperor, who ferve at the Altar with white wax
Torches in their hands; and after the manner of the Italian  Princes,
divers Eunuchs  to fing.

For his Recreations abroad, he delights much in Hunting, efpecially
of the wild Boar in due feafons; I have known him bring home fiK
Boars in a morning. Some flout perfons, particularly count Nicholai
Strini,  would cncounter a wild Boar alone, but at laft he unfortu-
nately perilhed by one, which hath made others more wary fince ;
and thereforc when the Boar is at aBay, the Huntfmen fo Band about
him, that the Emperor, or other great perfons, may more fafdy make
ufe of their Boar-fpears upon him.

Surelv there are great numbers of them about the Country, for
they are no unufual or extraordinary Difh in the City, though of a de-
licious and pleafing tafte. They feed upon Acorns, Beeci.-majt,  and
Chefnuts,  upon the fpring or Iprout of Broom, Juniperj  and Shrubs,
and upon theroots of Fern,  and wijl range into Corn-fields, and come
out of Forefts into Vineyards. The Huntfmen are notably verfed and
skilful in that Game ; for though they fee it not, they will diftinguilb.
a wild from a comnion Sfrine, and guefs whether Čhst which they hunt

142

A Defcription  ofVicnha.

be Male or Female, old or young, large or finali, fat or lean ; and this
they chiefly coriječhire from their tread or foot, and the čafting their
hindfeet out of the track of their forcfeet.

The Emperor being Ib good a Huntfinatf,it iš the lefs wonder that he
is efteemed a good Horfeman. Certain it is, that he hath a very noble
Stable of Horfes, procured from ali parts, Turk fh, Tartarian, Polonian,
Tranfylvanian,Sax on,Bohemian, Hangar'tAn,Naples,  and they are well

managed ; and they ride them to the fatisfačtion of the Beholders.

Having feen the Arfenal  at Venice,  the Stores  .at Chatham,  and thež
Naval TTovifions  at Amfterdam,  I am not like to admire any
other, efpecially fo far from the Sea, and looked for nothing of that
nature in this plače Notvvithftanding I found an Arfenal,  and plače
for Naval Vefteis to be fet out upon occafiori, and fome thereof were
employed in the laft Turkfh  war, when they attempted to deftroy the
Bridge of Boats which the Turks  had triade over the O anale,  a little a-
bove Gran  and Barchan.  They are built fomevvhat Jike Galle^s,  carry
great Guns,and a good numberof Souldiers, and tfrill make a fight upon
the broad deep ftream of the Danu.be,  and may be handfomly brought
into the Town behind one ofthe Baftions,\vhen the River is high: and
hercof thefe are fome at Bab  and Komora  as 1 have dec'ared elfevvhere.

The Emperor hath many Counfellors, great Souldiers and Courti-
ers about him ; among which thefe feeemed of greateft Note.

Eufebius fflerceflaus  Duke de Sagan,  Prince Lobroivitz,  Prime Coun-
fellor, Hoff-meijler,  of the Order of the Golden Fleece,  a perfon of a
grave and fober Afpečt, fomewhat blunt in converfation, but of a
generous temper, and frce from ali covetoufnefs, who fpent his Reve-
nues nobly, and unto his great reputation : He was chief favorite un-
to the Emperor; and though fome had no great opinion of his Abilities,
yet he was the firft that difčovered the laft Hungarian  defečtion and
revolt, whereby thofe Noble Perfons, Count Peter Serini  and Nadajli
(hvhom I faw at Nmnna)  were brought unto their ends.

Henrlcus Gulielmus,  Count of Stahrenberg, Ober-boff-Marefchal,  or
Lord Marfbal of the Court.

Johannes Maximilianus,  Count of Lamlurg, GlerjlKammer-Herr , or
Chief of the Chamler,  a Perfon of great efteem- The Gentlemen of
the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary; there
may be an hundred of them, ali Barons  and Counts.  Every one of
them vvears a Golden Key before his Breft; and the Grooms of the bed-
chamber wear one of Steel: T\vo of each attend every Night-

Gundakeru^  Count Dietrichftein, Ober-Stall-Me/Jler, or Chief Maji er
of the Horfe.

Thefe are the Chief. Thefe following are alfo confiderable.

Count Sinzendorff, OlerJle-Jag-MeiJier, Grand Neneur,  or Hunts-
Majler,  a Perfon in good favour with the Emperor, who very much de-
lights in Hunting, as have moft of his Predecefibrs.

The Count of Aversbergflberfii-Falken-Meifler, Chief Falconer^vtho
hath twelve Falconers under him.

The Count of Paar, Chief Maji er of the Em Jer or s Poji.

Leojoldus Wilhelmus,  Marquis of Saden, Cajtain  of an hundred
Hartfhires,  who are the Hofe-guard,  and ride with Pijlols  and Čara-
hnes  out of the City ; but vvithin Eienna  they carry Launces  and Ja-
njelins  with broad points.

Francifais

A Defcription of  Viefina. 143

ofthe Foot-guardjJz  good Perfonage,and well efteemed ofby the Em-
ptrour.

Sixty, or more,P^g«; for the number, is uncertain, and not limited ?
moft of them Counts  and Barons-

Rajmundus,  Count de Montecuculj  was his General,  Prefident of the
Council of War, Governour of Rab  and the Confines about it, and of
the Order  of the Golden Fleece ;  a tali Perfon, (dmcvvhat lean, but
hath a fpirit in his look : he is one of the oldeft Commanders in Eu-
rope,  and performed good Service in Poland, Huijarj, Germanj
in many places, and is efteemed a prudent, valiant,and luccefsful Com-
mander.

The Count de Soucbes  was alfo a Commander  of great Fame, and in
high efteem vvith the Emperor. He was a Native of Rocbelle  : he firft
ferved the Sivedes  in the German  wars, and vvas a Colonel, but upoil
lome difguft he forfook the Sivedes,  and ferved the Imperialifts,  and
vvas made Governor of Brin,  the fecond Tovvn in Mcravia.  After the
taking of Crembs  in Aujlria  General Torjlenfon,  bčfieged Brin,  and
fent vvord unto the Governor de Soucbes,  That if he relufed to delivec
up the Tovvn, he vvould give him no quarter. Who anfvvcred him,
That he vvould not ask any, and alfo give none: and dtftnded the
plače vvith fuch refolution, that aftcr many Aflaults Underminings,and
Attempts by Granado s, Torjlenfon  was forced to rife, after a Siege of
four months, vvhich was fo advantageous unto Aujlria  and the Impe-
rial  affairs, that the Emperor took efpecial notice of him made him
a Baron,  and of his Privj-Council.  He commanded alfo ali the For-
ces in Vienna,  and did notable Service in the laft TurkiJh  wars. Hd
took the City of tditra,  or Nitria,  not far frorri Stripjnium  or Gran  j
and took and flevv ftx thoufand Turks  vvhich were fent by the Vizi’
er  of Buda  againft him : a worthy Perfon, and of a good Afpedt
Count Soucbes  the younger, his Son, an Heroick Commander, is Go¬
vernor, of the ftrong fortified plače Leopoldffadt  by Freijladtfi  Perfon
of grčat Givility, unto whom 1 vvas much obliged.

Count £efly,  Nephevv unto Count Leflj,  vvho vvas fent Ambafladoi*
to Conjlantmople  to the Sultan  from the Emperor, is a Commander
worthy of that efteem he hath vvith the Emperor ; a Perfon of great
Courage, Civility and Humanity, vvhich I muft ever acknovv-
ledge.

The Courts of the Emprefs, and of the Emprefs Dovvager, are filled
vvith Perfons of Note; and there are a great number of Souldiers in
this plače of great Fame, as the Marquifs Pio, Spork, Cop ,  and many
more. Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning,are in good efteem
vvith the Emperor; but the JčJuites Moelner  and B ccabella,  are his
near Favorites. Many Strangers both Souldiers and Scholars, have
built their Fortunes here. And furely Strangers of parts and induftry,
fo they be of the Roman Cburch,  are not like to raife their Fortunes any
where better than in thefe parts.

Though the Emperor goes not to war in Perfon, yet hath he been
fuccefsful in his wars, efpeciallv in the Battel vvith the Turks  at Sr. Go-
dart,  vvhere the bufinefs was handfomly and ačtively managed, to fct
upon the body of the Turks,  which had pafled the River Rab,  befote
the vvhole Forces of the Vizi er  eould come over^ to the great
llaughter of the JaniJaries  and Turks,  vvho fought ftoutly, and
vvere

144

A Defcription  o/Vicnna.

were firft put to a Rctreat by the French  Cavalry.For at firft the Turks
feemed to prevail, and had flain a great part of two Regiments of the
A*xHiarrs  which came out of Franconia,  and after their cuftom, had

cut off their Heads.

But his later wars hdvc been ftill more fortunate, wherein he hath
not only relieved Vienna,  and taken divers citifes from the Turks  ; but
remains ftill Mafter of the Field in Hunga y.  Among the many no-
table things in Ftenna,  the Imperial  Library is very rcmarkable. He
who hath feen the Bodleian  Library at Cxjord,  and the Patican,  at
Rome,  would be much furprized to find fuch a notable one here,as may
compare with them; efpccially upon the extreme Bordersofthe Learn-
ed part of Evropa

The number and noblenefs of the Books doth much exceed the re-
ceptacle or plače which contains them,as makingno fair lhew at the en-
trance,and fomewhat wanting lighr. But as lor the number and value of
the Books, they are of opinion here that it viclds unto none,but rather
excels any other Library in Europe.  There was a plače defigned for
the building of a fit receptacle for them; but, 1 know not how, a Thea-
tre for Comedies is now built in that plače.

It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms,which are To well fil led,
that many Books are fain to lic upon the Floor ; and the Shelves ftand
fo clofe, that there is but juft room to pafs between them. The Ma¬
nufcripts, ftand diftindt from the printed Books,according to their Lan-
guages, being divided into fix Claffes, Theological, Jurirdcal, Medical,
philojophical, Hiftorical, P hilological.  There can fcarce be a more ad-
mirable Coltečtion than the Manufcripts in part of the firft Chamber,
of iv, Syriack, Arabick,Turkijh, Armenian, FEthiopick,  and Chi~
veje  Books.

It \vas begun, at leaft the Books began to beplaced in this recepta¬
cle, by the Firft, but hath been much encreafed by fuc-

ceeJing Emperors, moft of them, fince Rodolphus  the Firft, being much
addičfed unto Learning, there having been large acceffions from many
noble Libraries, and moft upon the coft of the Emperors. Thechoi-
ceft Books in the famous Library of Buda,  of Ring Matthias Corvinus,
bon unto Huniades,  are now in it. The notable Library of ffbifgan-
gus Lazim,  who was Library-Keeper, was brought hither, and
Three thoufand Books of Johannes Sambucus  are now in this Repofi-

t°ry.

Augerius Buslepuius,  fometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much
ftnto it; and in his two Turkifh  Embafties procurcd a great number of
noble Greek  Manufcripts at. Conflantinople,  which are infcribed with
his own hand, Aug. de Bufbeck. emit Conftantžnopoli.  A great many
were added from the Library of the Lcarned Johannes Cufpinianus*
Library Keeper, and Councellor unto the Emperor. The notable Li¬
braries and Mathematical Inftruments of Tjcho Brahe y  Kepler,  and
GaJJendus,  were purchafed for it. But the largeft acceflion was made
by the noble Library of Count Fugger,  which confifting of fixteen
thoufand Volumes,was purchafed by Ferdinand  the Third. Many were
brought, fortie few years paft, from the Ambrafian  Library by Infpruck,
by the Learned Pet rus Lambecius,  Library-keeper, Hiftoriogra-
pher, and Councellor unto the prefent Emperor • who hath alfo an ex-
cellent Library which is like to be added unto the ImperfaL  He then
reckoned

A Defmftion of  Vienna.

rbckohed the Volumes in this great Libra ry to amount at leaft to
Fourfcore thoufand; and b'y this time that number may be irirreafed,
for he adds farne yearly. And the number might almoft be end-
fefs, ifthey would make ufe of their privilege, for the Emperor biith.
a right to have tvvo Books of ali that are printed in Germany.

They have alfo a great advantage at Vienna,  to acquire good Manu¬
fcript s  from the Turkifo  Dominions-, for the Emperor is obliged to have
a Refident with the Grand Seipnior  vvherefoever he moves or orders
him to be; 'even at the laft fight of St. Godart,  the Emperor’s Re¬
fident was in the litrkijh  Čamp. And when I was at Larfa,  in Thef-
faly,the  Refident Šigrrdr de Cafa Nov a,  was inquifitive after Books to
be fbund among the Greeks  in Monafteries and other places. And this
Emperor, like his Father, will fpare no coft tovvard fuch Acquiries.

By the efpecial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius,  I went many
tiines into this Library, and he was fo courteous as to let me have what
Books I defired unto my private Lodging: He would fhew me divers
BooFn upon what Subječt 1 required, and offered me a fight of what
Books he thought rare and eftimable; and amongft others I could not
but take notice of thefe follovving :

A Letter  of the prefent Emperor of China,  in the Chinefe  and Tar*
■tatian  Languages, unto the prefent Emperor of Gerwany,  vveaved in
a very fine Roli.

Another old Roli  vvritten in unknovvn Letters^ yet a little reiembling
the Greek.

A. Book in  the Runick  Language.

A very fair Manufcript  of Ptoloyry,  with the Maps drawn in Colotirs.

The oldeft Manufcript  and true Ebcemplar  of Livy,  in large Letters,
without diftinčtion Of Words  or Sentences,  very uneafic to be read, a
thoufand years old, and brought, not many years fince, from the Library
near Infpruck.

An old fair Greek Manufcript  of Diofcorides,  written eleven hundred
years fince, in very large Letters,  without diftance of Words,or dccents,
wherein ali the Plants  are lively painted; alfo the Piftures  of Diofco¬
rides, Galen, Pamphilus, Cratevas,  and other ancient TWcM»y,bought
of a Jew  at Conftantinople  for an hundred Ducats,  by Busbequius.

A Book  of Geometrical, Propoftions  demonftrated in the China  Lan¬
guage.

Another fair one in the China  Tongue \vith Pidures.

A noble old Greek Manufcript  in great uhcial Letters,  without ftops,
points, or diftance of words.

An ancient Greek Manufcript  of the Book  of Genefis,  in large Letters,
vithout diftance or accents, tfiirteen hundred years ago; wherei,n are
Fotty eight P/llures  or 'Draughts  in Miniature  or Water-colours,  iiiuch
conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits,Ph&  manner NiFeaftin^,
poftures at Meals,  vvaiting of Servants  and Mufical Instruments : Where-
in I could not but take notice of the Golden Spotvcpon JofepFs  breaft;
and the manner of the Execution  of Pbat aoh  s Baker, his head being
put thrbugh a forked piece of wood, and hiš IN and s  tyed behind
him. / ’ ' 7

A fair Book o( dltert Durer, whcrein are vnra.^y. Ane Paintings in
Miniature  or Limning ;  as alfo a- Sphere,  and within itaG/^ carved
and painted by him.

U A

145

A Defcription of  Vienna.

A fair Book  of Michael Angelo,  wherein, befides many rare things in
Architefiure,  are ali the paintings  and dejigns  of the Belvedere,  in lit-
tle.

A fair Alcoran  in Arabick,  interlined with the Turkijb  to explain
it.

The Bille  in the Coptick,  and Berfian  Languages.

Luther s  own Bille,  marked with his own Hand,  and interlined by
him with Notes  in many places.

A fair Greek Manufcript  of the Nem Tejlamentffitevn  hundred years
ago written in Let ter s  of Gold  upon Purple.

There was alfo a Magical Glafs,  obtained by the Emperor Rodolphus,
whereby to fee ApparitRns,  and converfe with Spirits ;  which fome
conceive to be the farne, or of the like nature with that ufed by k  ci¬
lj •

Of ancient Greek, Roman,  and Gotbick Medals  and Coyns,  in Gold,
Silver,  and Copper,  to the number of fixteen thoufand. Among the
Copper Coyns  they pretend to have two of the Emperor Marc^s  0-

I let fall fome Drops  into this Ocean,  adding fome Coyns, Intaglids,
and Infcriptions  not to be found in thatjarge woi;k of Gruterus  ; which
having found in the Emperors furtheft Dominions and Turkijb  parts,
longout ofhis poflefTion, where there had been no great enquiry af-
ter them ; were fhewed unto his Imperial Majefty by Petrus Lambeci-
us,  and fo well accepted by him, that he faid I might have the ufe
of what Books I defired : and at my return into Englandhe  gave me a
formal Pafs in Latin  for my fafe Travel, and that my Trunks or Goods
might not be fearched,which takes off a great deal of trouble in pafling
fo many Principalites  and free Cities,  Commanding ali in his own Do¬
minions, and Requefting ali Princes in Germany  to favour me, and per-
mit me to pafs freely without moleftation: It was thus Subičri-
bed,

Leopoldus

Leopoldus Gulielmus
Comes in Kinigseggs.

Ad mandatum Sacr. Caf
Majeftatis proprium

Beuer.

■ • ■

The Rareties  of the great Duke of fufcany,  The Treafure  of Loretto,
St Mark,  St. Denis  in France-,  of the Duke of Saxony  at Drefden,  and
others, were very fatisfad:ory to me. Vet having a fair opportunity,
I would not leave Vienna  vvithout a fight of the moft noble Treafury  or
Repofttory  of his Imperial Majefty • efpecially having heard fo mučh
thereof, and knovving it to be the Collefiion  of many fucceeding Em¬
perors. 1 therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it,
and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curiofi-
ties thereof. To fet down aU I faw, were a work too large for this
Volume; and the Catalogue of them, which is kept in this plače,

D takes

-■ A De/criftiMi ff Vicnna.  ‘147

takes up a large Vohtme ih Foltoi ;  I ihall therefore ordy mention
thefe following, whereby fcme conječture may be made of the reft.

In the firft Cufiloard  or Cafe  weremany noble Vefiels, turned and
Ihaped out of Mrv, a Cup  turned by the Emperors own Hand j dno-
ther turned by FerdFanfus  the Third. trlllant Cups of Amber; Spoods
andFefelFof Mother ofPe&rl : mdrty nbble works ih Coral j a hrte
Gulley  in Ivory,  and Ctips  made out čfRhinocerof's  horn.

in the fecond,
t c;!a > 'n.>  dm.n, u'T .

An Ele phani  of Ivory  with a Caftlif^on  his back, and over the Cafi le
a Skifi,  with much otfier fine wdrk in the farne piece. Two fair
Pillars  of Ivory ; gooABaffo Relievovn. Ivory ; a fair Craniumor Deatbs-
bead,  and much other variety of Ivory  work. A Pdb.re  in Oyl  of Ga-
ftymede,  by Corregio.

In the third,

7 ■ , j . • .1 :

A  fine P Ul ur e,  of an old Man s head  ih Oyl  by Albert Dttrer  : great
Variety of Watche$  and Clock~work  in Silver : a fine Centaur  in SiF
ver  Which is a curious Watch.

In the fourth,

/ < •tr/.' ( v. 3 bnB. e l\v >  D t V ■. >. :  f

More katehet  and Clock-work ;  a gallant Sbifi of Silver, ^.fritim-
phal Chariot,  a Turk  riding and attended, a Globe  and, a Sfihere
in Silver,  a curious Landskip  in Oyl  by Corregio,  a Cufiid  by the lam©*
hand, with a fine Copy of it.

In the fifth,

'IY- O  t • ( »\‘i ••■ i- . f,. ‘ j,  -.v

A curious Filegrane Pfandkerchief,  and two fair Filegrane Plates
brought out of Sfiain  by the Emprefs Margarita; an Indian Bas-
ket  of an Indian  fortof Filegrane  mixed with Birds; a Bafon of A~
gate  fincly wrought with filver Crawf]les  in it.

In the fixth,

’ ‘ F , ‘ '■ :■ i i .. ’

Is contained.a ftrange Colleflion  of Intaglie  and old Roman Stones.pA-
mirable for their work and largenefs, A large Agate  whereon is wrought
the Hiftory of that Viblory  which Auguslus Coefar  obtained over the
Dalmatians  and Pannoniansjn.  the ninth year of out Lord; about five in
ches long, and four broad, highly valued .• An exačt Cut df which is
here inferted.

An Onyx  with the Head  of Ale bander,  and Olymfiia.

A Shell  with a Bat tel  carved in it.

* A Chain  with the Heads of  ali the Atiftrian  Family.

A Dog  in a very large Sardonyx.

‘ i j . ' \ ' ,

In the feventh,

A noble Head  in Oyl  by Hans van Acb.  Tite Headof Maximilia-
nus  the Firft in Plaifter,  with a lock  of his own Hair. Mother of P e ari

U x in

148 A Defcription of  Vienna.

in many fhapes. Fine Baskets,  and the twelve Ctefars  Heads.

In the eight, moft of CrjFlal,

- z- ■ ■.  ■ rr* ■ ' . '; .

A noble r^/about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of
Cryftal.  An Vrne.  The Head  of the Emprefs. A fair Dragon.  The
Head  of the Queen-Mother of France.  A Chrjftal  in which the Pic¬
ture  of our Saviour  may be feen thrice one way, and once another
way.

The ninth of Crjflal  alfo,

' !  ■

A noble Eiver.  A fair Eeffel  of very clear Cryftal,  lately bought.
A large Head. VairCroffes,  and other Varieties.

The tenth of Gold  and precious S toneš.

Five Crotvns.  The Imperial Croivn ; rich in Jewel$,  and hath a ve-
ry large blew Saphir  on the top. A Model  of that Crown  with which the
Emperor  is crowned, much richer than the Original. A Paragon Dia¬
mond  of feventeen Čarat s  and a half. Very large Rubies. A Scepter
of Vnicorns  horn, fet with rich Stones.  A Locket  of the greateft Dia-
monds.  A magnificent Scepter, Globe, Crofs,  and Crovcn,  which cofi
feven hundred thoufand Crowns. An Opal  biggcr than my hand, as it
was taken out of the Mine;  and many other fair Opals.  A very large
Emerald.  A Ship  in an Emerald.  A fair Ring-Dial.

The eleventh of Gold.

“ ‘ : F ’ i * < I• '

A noble Bafon  ufed at the Baptifm  of the Auslrian Family. Scepters,
Scimeters, Knives,  and other rich Prejentt  from the Turk.  Three rich
Dog-Collars,  fent by King Charles  the Second u ith three Dogs,  out of
England,  with this Mark on them jC f)C. A large lump of pure Gold,
as it was taken out of the Mine,  as broad as my hand. A fair piece of
Gold Or e,  wherein the pure Gold fhooteth  upon a ivbite Stone.  Divers
great Bafbns  of Gold  and Coral.

In the twelfth,

Eeffels cfijajpis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Granates. €ups  of
Onyx, Sardonyx.  Large ones of Lapis Nephriticus  : and a great one of
an Amethysl.

In the thirteenth,

A large high Etffel  of Bohemian Topaz. Flovcers  well made out of
precious Stones. A. C up  ofan Hungarian Diamond.  A piece of Amber-
griece  as big as a mans head, fent from the GrandSeignior.  A no¬
ble Jafpis-Jlone.  A large Stone  of Agate  on the outfide, and a bed of
large Amethy!is  naturally in it in the middle, which is an extraordina-
ry and pleafant Rarety.

In

A Defcription of  Vienna. 14^

In the reft,

Noble Chryfolites, Jacynths, Criental Granate;, Beryls  or Atjuamari-
nes.  The notable rich Smaragdu;,  or Emerald,  or a Cup,  out of that
Stone.  Three great ones having been already taken out, valued ar
three hundred thoufand Crovvns. A Pifture  in Oyl  of the little King
Ziladijllaus Lokeli,  King of Hunary.  Ten rich Turkijh Saddles,  with
Furniture;  for Horfes,  fet with fair Turcois Stone;.  A great numberof
Gol i Peffel;  and fine Figure;  in CoraJ Turkijh Knive;, Gauntlets,  and
Takle mened. Gold.  Delicate Pittures  in Wax.  Very large Bezoar
Jtones- Indian golči, C ar d;  and Counter;.  A vaft Me dal  of the Em-
perods Arms,  vveighing two thoufand two hundred Ducat;,  or a thou¬
fand pounds Englijb. At Cup  out of Solomods Temple.  Fair Amber.
Rare Inlaying,  in /Food. Bacchus  and other Statuds  out of a very high
Rhinocerods  horn. A fine Piklure  of the Mountain Vefuvius. Jeivels
with black Feafhers  given by the Turkijh AmbaJJador ; Piclure

ofa lean Skeleton Priefl,  who lived fo four years. A notable Cabinet-
clock  with large motions. A fair Bafon  and Eiver  of carved Ivory.  King
Philip  the Second of Spain  in Diamond  Armour, let in Gold.  A neat
Piclure  of an old Man  courting zyoung Woman,  \virh this Motto:

1 .

Ar el um Annulum ne geji ato.

A Knife  fwallowed by a Peafant  near Prague,which  was nine months
in his Stomach,  and fafely cut out i6ox. The like happened alfo to a
perfon in Prujjia,  of which Daniel Becker  hath written a peculiar
Traki  under this Title,Z)<? Cultrivoro PruJJiaco.  A fair Crucifix  of P earl.
Jndian Piclures  made of Featlers.  The King of Sweden, Gustavu; A-
dolphuss Buff-coat  in which he was killed at the Battel of Lutzen. Til*
lys  Sword. An Angel  in Ivory  with Hair and Clothes of Filegrane  of
Gold,  A neat CrucifixcdWood\yy Albertu; Durer.  Two very large
Looking-glaJJe;  with the Frame;  of Sil ver. Ali the Gofpel;  vvritten and
painted. Many brave Statua’;  and Picture;  every where. The Head
of Charles  the firft King of England, mwhite Marble. A Ped Jlal  of
Amber,  over which a Crojs.  The Mead  of St. Falerius  Biihop of Tri-
er s.  The P iti ur e  of St. CaLerine  of Sienna,  drawn by Sigijmund  King
of Poland.  A Pičture of the Emperor  as he gives Audience,  to be
looked upon through a little round hole. A neat Tabl  of InlaidStone
made by the prefent Emprefs Dowager Eleonora.  A Nail  of our Savi*
our s Crojs  almoft a foot long; our Saviours Blood;  and two Thorns
ofhisCmv«, the one whiter than the other. Priejls Garments  cover-
ed ali over with large Pearl.  The great and high efteemed Agate
Dijh,  between three and four fpans Diameter with XRISOS naturalljf
in it. Unto which one a pplied that of St. Luke, Dico vobis guia Ji hi
tacuerint, lapide\ clamabunt.

Unto which magnificent Rareties there is one more added, the noble
Chain  of Pearl  of eight yards long taken from the GraffTeokeoly  in the
late Tlungarianwax  underftand fince my Return.

I went unto divers noted Places about Fienna  : I walked unto the
Hill of Vienna,  two Engtijh  miles diftant from the Tovvn, going up ali
the way by an eafie Afeent; from whencel had a profpečt of the Ci-
ty, and the Compagnia about it, together with the high Mountains in

St e ir-

150 A Defcriptžon of  Vicnna.

Steirmark  covered vvith Snovv: and in myreturn fawthe Palače of
the Emprefs Dowager vvithout the Town, called la Favorita^  and pafled
by the Convent of the Paulini. . . ■<'."> |, . ’

About two En&lifo  miles Eaftvvard from Pienna^  there is a very no-
ble Garden-place belonging to the Emperor, built by Rodolphtu  the Se-
cond, which hath been formerlv well furnifhedj and provided vvith
Plants, but now feems to be neglečted, and fotiievvhat ruinouš. It
confifts of an inward and an outvvard fquare Garden : The inward
is two hundred ordinary paces fquare, about the farne bignefs with the
Plače Royal at Paris : It hath a Portico  or CloyPier y  fupported by Forty
Pillars of white Stone on each fide, and is covered yvith Copper; as are
alfo the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Befides
this, there is an handfom rovv of Buildings well feated,called Neiv*gal>au,
in vvhich at prefent are many wild Beafts kept. Lions and Tigres breed
here, and have young ones. Some fay this vvas the plače of Solyman
the Magnificent’s Tent vvhen he befieged Pienna.  But it is rather the
Figure of his Pavilion which was placed on the other fide of the City.

There is alfo, about two or three miles from Pienna^  a noted plače
of Devotion, called Arnols y  much frequented, efpecially in Lent,  divers
carrying Crofles very heavy ali the way upon their fhoulders. There
is here a little Houfe built exačtly after that of the Sepulchre at Jeru-
falem ;  and alfo a handfom Copy of the Pičture of our Saviour and the
Virgin Mary,  vvith their exačt heights. That of our Saviour is about
two yards high; that of the blefled Virgin three or four fingers breadth
lovver : Thefe are taken from the Original in St. John de Lateran  at
Rome.  H ither the Emprefs defired togo one morning from her own
Palače on Foot, out of Devotion, vvhich ihe performed, though with a
great deal of diffi£ulty, Ihe being not ufed to walk, and the way vvas
dufty. The Emperor accompanied her and ali the Court follovved on
foot, vvhich made a handfome lhew.

Nearer unto Fienna  there is alfo a remarkable plače for Devotion,
called Itzin^  : and in the vvay from Vienna  unto it, the twelve Stati-
ons of the Crofs are marketi out in imitation of what is obferved near
Jerufalem,  in the Pia Crucis,  or Dolorofa,  in our Savioufs proceeding
from the City unto Mount Calvary ; the  the Figures thereof are print-
ed, and the feveral paces betvveen every Station fet down. The Empe¬
ror hath a handfom Park near Vienna,  called the Brater,  vvherein I
beheld the effečts of the great Lightning and Thunder vvhich happen-
ed three days before, upon many great Trees vvhich vvere torn, fplit, or
,twifled. There is a Houfe of Pleafure in it, vvhere among other things,
I could not but take notice of a Mufical Inftrument vvhich I had not
feen before, a Seat  or Cheftdrum;  it hath a Cord like that ofa Sea-trum'
pet,  but founds like a Kettle-drum.

I went alfo unto Laxamhurg,  vvhither the Emperor often retires;
he  hath a Houfe in this plače, but it is old, and not large. There is
alfo a Houfe of Pleafure in the Mote, into vvhich there is no other paf-
fage but through a high Corridore.  Tne Caftle is commodioufly feat-
ed for the Emperors recreation; and there is an eight-fquare Houfe in
the Marjh,  from vvhich the Nobility and the Emprefs Dovvager fome-
times Ufed to fhoot, flie being very expert therein. Over the Gate of
the Emperors Houfe hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, vvhereof I
could get no better account, than they vvere the Rib and Javv-bone of

a

A Defcription  o/Vienna. 15 

a heathen maid. They feemed to me tp be Bones of an Elephant.  But
many things that are old or obfcure, they call, in this Country, Hea¬
then : as Roman  Coyns, they call Heathen money. And the Peafants
brought me, in a plače which had been formerly an old Roman  Station,
part of the bit ofaBridle digged up, which they concluded tobea
Heathen Key.

From hence I went unto Mannerfdorff,  feated not far from the River
Lej ta,  where there is a natural hot BatE,  called the VFildebath •  it ari-
fes undcr a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head.
The water of it is but Luke-warm,and therefore when they defire it
hotter, they boyl it, and fo bathe in Tubs in a large room. From
that Subftance vvhich fticks to the fides of the Coppers in the boyl-
ing of it, they judge it to be impregnated with Sulphur, Salt-peter,  and
Chalk.  The water colours the ftones,and makes them look,when wet,
like fine Turquoifa.  And the vapour of the Bath hanging upon the
Mofs on the fides, gives it an Amber or Gold colour. The Phyficianš
of Eiema  have givcn a good aecount concerning the ufe of thefe Baths
in High-dutch.  Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone, out of
which a great part of Fienna  is built. The Stones are large and they
cut, and lquare them at the Quarry.

From hence I proceeded to the N'ewfidler fea  or Lake, fo  called from
Newfidle,  which is a Town feated upon the Northern part of it, con-
fifting of one ftreetand fome back-houfes, and a finali, fquare, old Caftle
upon a Hill, from vvhence I had a good profpečt over the Lake. It is
about three German  miles broad, and feven miles long. The faireft
Lake in thefe parts aflording plenty of Fifh ; encompafled and thickly
fet about with fmall Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at leaft
not confiderable, running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate
of Nevofidle  they dig out a black earth, out of which they make Salt-
peter.  In this Journey, not far from Himburg,  we pafled by a plače
called Rauckvoard,  vvhich, though it feems not high, looks over a great
part of Auftriajmd  as far as Brin-,  the fecond City of Mor avla,  a part alfo
of the Kingdom of Ro^e^r^.and a part of the Kingdom of Hnniaria,  I
went afterwards four Englifh  miles up the Stream of the Danube,  to fee
a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg.  The beds, rows,
or cafes of the Stones lie not horizontally, but rather elevated North-
ward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always fo re-
gularly placed, but rather follovv the Ihape of the Hill, and according
to that are diflerently fituated. Here I alfo obferved a Subftance be-
tween a Clay and a flone called Leberftein,  or Liver(ione;  and upon
many of thefe Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves, though
not fo deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence; yet very  prettily
marked, and often with broader Leaves,than I had elfevvhere obferved*
I pafled forward to Clofler-tdeuburi^  a Town moft of it belonging to
that notable rich Monaftery feated here, founded by St. Leopoldu^
Marquefš of Auftria,  and fince much enriched by fucceeding Dona-
tions.

Matthceui Merian  hath a good cut of the Profpečt of the Danube
. hereabouts, and in what manner it pafles downwards betvveen the
two great Hills of Kalenberg  and Bifnberg.  Upon one Peak of Kalen*

breglive divers Catnaldrlenjef,  of an Order the moft fevere ofany,li-
ving moft upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites.  Near
their

I$2

crifttion

their Celiš they had paved the ground with thofe Stones I mentioned,
vvhich were naturally marked vvith the Shapes of Trees and
Plants.

After an open Autumn there follovved a fharp Winter at Eienna,  in
the roonths of December  and January.  The branches of the Datoubt
vere foon frozen over. The main Stream, by reafon of its fwift Cur-
rent, held out longer, but was afterwards alfo frozen. Some have
thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And vve
read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen ;
but I could not make any regular Obfervation thereof. This hard
vveather, the ground being covered vvith Snovv, afforded handfom Re-
creations unto men, and fome unto the Ladies, in runniag Courfes in
handfom Sleds and Devices upon the Snovv. Their Sleds vvere well
contrived in the Ihape of Griffins, Tiger s, Šivan s, Scallop Shells, Dol-
phins, Peacocks,  and the like Curiofities, carved, painted, and gilded.
The Lady fits in one of thefe, richly habited in Velvetdined vvith ričh
Furrs, fet ofT vvith Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Cap 'med vvith Sables.
The Sled is drawn by a Horfe, drefled up vvith Feathers ofall cclours,
and Beliš hanging about him, a pair of Stags borns behind his head,
Ribbons and other Ornaments: one or more Pages ride by on Horfe-
back vvith Torches in their hands. And after this manner they per-
form their Courfe upon the frozen Snow about the ftreets of Viemi'^
in the night, vvith good fpeed one after another. A Gentleman fits
behind the Lady and guides the Horfe. But the Froft brcaking up
put an end to thefe Recreations. The Froft began and ended here the
farne day that it began and ended in England.

The Feftivity of Chriftmas  vvas obferved much after the farne Man¬
ner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities, as in Italy.  On Chrišimas-day  the
Emperor dined publickly, attended vvith many Nobles and great Per-
fons, and three remarkable lovv Dvvarfs. Upon St. Stephens  day he
vvent to the Cathedral of St. Sr«y>£e«,and vvent up to the Altar,kneeled,
and kifled the Fiate vvhereon the Hoslia  had lain. At the Epiphany
or Tdelfth-tide,  the old cuftom of choofipg King and Queen vvas ob¬
ferved at Court. Count Lefty  happened to be King, the Emperor laid
the Cloth, and the Emprefs filled out Wine, together vvith other old
Cuftoms, Fetched perhaps in part from ancienter times, Saturnalium
dielus, mos Ror/iams,pr čeber e Jervis conureium fic ut ipfi officia feruorum
obirent.

Before Chriftmas  there vvas extraordinary mirth and jollity at the
Court upon occafion of a Marriage : For Count Serau r  Governor of
Gratz  in Styria,  married a natural Daughter of Philip  the Four.th, King
of Spain,  which vvas obferved vvith many noble Solemnities and Bra-
veries. And the Nobility and Ladies vvere fo fubftantially fp!eridid,that
I vvas much furprized thereat.

This vvas follovved by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun,
vvho vvas Colonel of the Forces in Eienna^  and vvho had one of the no-
bleft Houfes in the Čity; his Corps vvas brought out of Italy,  and in-
terred in the Dominican  Church, vvhere he formerly built a very fair
Altar; there vvas raifed for him a Caftrum Dolores,  handfomly contrived
and fet round vvith vvhite Wax Torches and Candles.

Whilelwas in Eienna,  the Emprefs Margarita  vvas deliveredofa
Daughter, vvhich vvas Chriftned by the name of Maria, Antonina, J oje-

A Defcription of  Vienna. i  5  3

Jofepha,Bene dieta., Rofalia,Petronel?a,  but fhe lived not many months.
When the Emprefs čarne abroad, fhe brought the Child to the Augu-
ftines  Church, vvhere Cardinal Carlo Caraffa,  the Pope’s Nuncio, recei-
ved it, blefled it, and la id it upon the Altar.

During my ftay here, the Elečtion vvas in readinefs for a King of Po*
land,  after the voluntary refignation of that Crown by King Ca/imir ;
and Couriers often pafled betvveen that Country and this. There vvere
Competitors the Czar  of Mufc(rvys  Son, the Duke of Neivlurg,  and the
Prince of Lorrain.  The Fr meh  moved ačtively for the Duke of Neiv-
burg,  the Emperor for the Prince of Lorrain,  who was then at Cz nna,
in great favour with the Emperor, vvho greatly promoted his intereft;
a Perfon of great efteem, and who if General Lubomirtki  had been li-
ving, who vvas his intimate Friend, in ali probability might have ob-
tained the Crovvn ; and thereupon it vvas conceived that he fhould
■have married the Emperor’s Sifter.But the Poles  made choice of one of
their ow ; n Country, who vvas no Competitor, Michael VVifnoivitski  de-
ceafed, vvho alfo married the Sifter of the Emperor.

When I was here, there vvere many Ambafladours ofNote, DcnBal-
thafar de la Cueva,  Marquifs of Malsgon,  and Brother to the Viceroy
of Naples,  was Ambaflador for Spain.  Cardinal Carlo Caraffa  vvas the
Popes Nuncio. The Penetia  Ambaflador Extraordinary,lollicited for
afliftance for Candia,  and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia  under
Marquis Pio.  Count Souches  the younger, vvho vvas Governor of Leo*
p Idjladt,  and many noble and valiant Souldiers vvere preparing for
that Expedition.The Turks  gave aflurančeofthe GrandSeigniors intenti-
on to maintain the Peace inviolably ; and requefted the Emperor not
toaflift the Penetians,  or Tranfylvan'ans,  nor to promote, but rather
hinder, the Elečtion of the Emperor of Mufcovjs Son to the  Crovvn of
Poland.  The Bifliop of Beziers,  fent by the King of France  to the E-
Jedtion of the King of Poland,  came not hither, but pafTed through Nu-
renburg,  vvhere I lodged at the farne Inn : They vvere generally here a-
gainft the French  Intereft, and fo vvere a great part of the Polijh  No-
bility. An Ambaflador came alfo from the Cham  of Tartarp,  to con-
firm a Peace, and aflord mutal Afliftance upon occaflon. Cha Gagi
Ara  vvas the Ambaflador,vvho brought a Prefent of the beft Tartariari
Horfes, vvhich are of high efteern for fvviftnefs, hardinefs, boldnefs in
pafling frozen Rivers, and taking and fvvimming over great Streams.
He vvas difmifled vvith noble Prefents of Plate. The Emperor prefent-
ed the Cham  of Tartary vvith a fair Silver Bafon and Evver, and a curi-
ous Watch ; and fent Prefents unto the Chammine  his Wife ; and alfo
to his Sifter and four Brothers. His Follovvers vvere ftout men, of
good ftature, coarfc Complexions, vvearing long furr’d Vefts and Cal-
packs, or furr’d Caps. Some of them had filver Rings vvith the farne'
Signatures of the Turkifo  Seals.They took much Tabaco in very long
Pipes.Their Tabaco is not in Rolls,but in Leaves,& dry.They vvent about
vvandring and gazing at moft things, as Churches, Houfes, Shops : And
took much delight to be in the Fair, vvhere they vvould take much
notice of fmall trifles. Yet thefe are the men that make fuch fad In-
curflons into the Eaftern parts of £^r.y»?,and carrying away fo many
thoufands, fell them to the 7«rEr,and fo repair the detečt of People in
Turkp.  And novv after the Confumption of men in Conjlantmople,
and the Countrv about by the Plague, are like to be ačtive in that

X , Trade,

_ A Defcription.  o/Vienna.

Trade, lioping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and Depreda-
tions. .

Tliere are divers Gregks,  who trače to Fiema,  and many live in the
Town, among which I met with three confiderable pcrfons. !  One a
grave Abbof, who was 'lorced from hisConvent by the Turk,  upon fuf-
picion that he correfponded with tholč of Candnn.  Another,who vvent
by the name of Conjlantinus Cdtacjizenvs.,  and.vvas; of the Blood Royal
ofthe Catacuzeni.  The third was ' Jeremiai  a Greek  Priefl, who had
traVelled through Iialy  and France-.  into England,  and from thence
through the Ltnv-Countries  and G,ermany tdpientia,  and intended for
Conjbantinople.  He came into England  to enquire after a.young man
v/ho was in a Ship which was firft taken by t an ■ Algerine,  and. aiter-
wards by an Englifb  man of war in the Levam.  He u as very kind!y
ufed in England,  and particularly it Cambridge.  He did a great deal
of honour at Tienna,  unto the Erglffa  Natiotfodeclaring that they werei
the moft civil, gcnerdus, and learncd prople he had met with in ali his
Travels, and that he.notvhere found fo many \vho could fpeak or um
derftand Greek,  or who gaVe himfogood fatisfadion in.ail parts of
Knowledge : And as a>teftimqny bf hiš refped and gratitude,-requeft-
ed me to enclofe a G.r&ek  Letter unto Dr. Pierfcn,  now Lord Bifliop of
Chetier,  and Dr; Barroiv  Mafler of Trinity College  in Cambridge.

M 11 men live here plentifully, there being. abundancc ofall provi--
fion. They have great quantity of Corn, vvhich upon Scarcity, by
the help of the Danule,  miglit be brought to them from remoter parts,
The Country aflords fuch plenty of wine, that they fend a confidera¬
ble quantity up the River. They have alfo rich \vines outof Hungary ■
and Italy,  anil fuch variety, that there are more than thirty feveral
forts of Wine tobe fold in Vienna.  They are not alfo without good
Beer. Halšbadtm Aujiria  aflords them Salt, whcre they make it
by' letting in watcr into the hollow parts of a Mountain,where it drinks.
m the Salt of the Earth, and is aftervvards let out and boiled up. This
aflords great profit to the Emperor, and therefore the Hun-
garian  ialt is not permitted to be brought higher than Prefburg.,
They have alfo plenty of Sheep and Oxen ; but for Oxen at prefent
they are alfo fupplied from Hungarj,  nor only from the Countries in
the Emperors Dominions. but from the Turkiili parts, by permiffion
of the Grand Seignior;  and they are brought hither by the Eaftern Com-
pany of Vienna.  They eat much wild Boar, whereof the Fat is deli-
cious, like that of Venfion with us. They want not Hares, Rabbets,
Partridges, Pheafants. A Foul callcd Hafenhendal,  or Gallina Corylo-
rum,  is much efteemed by them, which made me the more wonder
to meet with fome odd difhes at their Tables ; as Guiny-Pigs,  divers
forts of Snails,  and Tortoifes.

The Danube,  and many Rivers which run into it, aflbrd them plen-
ty of Fifh, extraordinary Carfs, Trouts, Tenches, Pikes, Eels,  le.veral
forts of Lampret r, and many fiflies finely coloured ; the vvhite Fifh,
Crevijjes  very large ; the beft come out of the River Sivecbet,  not far
from Tienna.  They have alfo that Subftantial large fifh, called Scbei-
den,  or Silurus Gefneri,  larger than Pike, Salmon,  or any of our River
Fiflies; but the great Fiflies called Haufons,  or Hufones,  in Johnjtonus^
for largenefš exceed ali others; fome being twenty foot long. Some
think this to- be the farne Fifb which AElian  names Antacetus,  and
fpeaks

A Defcription of Vicnna. 155

fpeaks largely of the fifliing for them in IPter.  I was at the fifliing
places for Haufons  in S chut  Ifland, betuecn Preflurg  and Komar a,
for they come not ufaally higher, efpecially in flioals,- and it is mucli
that they come fo high, for they' are conceived to come out of the
Euxinefea,  and fo up the ftream. They eat them both frefli and falt-
ed; they tafte moft like Sturgeori.  It is a Cartilagineous Fifli, cortfift-
ing of griftles ■> and they have a hollow nervous chord ali down
the back, which being dried ferves for a whip. When they fifli for
them they blow a Horn or Trumpet and know where they go by the
moving of the water. From Menice  they are fupplied with Oyfters,with
falt Sturgeon^  and fometimes with red Herrings,  and great variety of
other Fiflies pickled up : as alfo with Oranges, Lnnons,  and other Fruits.
Obferving much freedom, mufick, and jollity in the City. I won-
dered how they could content themfelveš without Plays,for there tvere.
few while I was there, till the P!ayers came hither out of <£7x007,and a-
čfed here for a time. The Jefuites Would fometimes entertain the
Emperor and Emprefs with a Comedy at thcir College; andlhad
once the favour to be at one vvhen they vvere prefent.

Butthey have Dancing and Fencing often, andevery Holy-day&
ter dinner, the people flock to fome Inns where. there is Dancing in
the inward Rooms, and Fencing and Playing of Prizes upon a -Stage in
the Yard ; and at the Windows, or from the Galleries, they behold the
Fencers playing at feveral VVeapobs ; and commorily pafs the reft ofthe
day in delights and merry Company. ■ ; 5  '

In Treafon and high Crimes they cut ofTthe riglft Hand of the Ma-
lefačtor, and his Head immediately aftcr. I faw a Woman Eeheaded
fitting in a Chair, the Executioner ftriking ofF her Head with a Fore-
blow, flie behaved her felf well, and was accompanied unto the Mar¬
ket plače by the Confraternity of the Dead,  avho' have a charitable
čare of fuch Perfons, and are not ofany ReligioudOfder, but La)-men ;
among whom alfo in this plače thcmare many.Fraternities and Orders,
as of the Holy Mtrgin^  of the Holy CrofazvA  otherfc Another perfon
alfo executed after the farne manrier; as foon as his head fell to the
ground, while the Body was in the Cbair, a man. run fpeedily with a
Pot in his hand, and filling it vvith the Blood, yet fpouting out of his
Neck, he prefently drank it ofT,  and ran away 5 and this he did as a
Remedy againft the Fal/ing-Sicknefs...  I have read of fome who have
approved the farne Medicine; and heard of othcrS who have done the
like in Germany.  And Celjus  takes notice, that in his time fome
Epilcptfcal perfons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours.  But many
Phyficians have, in ali times, abominated that Medicine. Nor did I
ftay aftcrvvards folong astoknow the eflečt thereof,as to the intendcd
cure. But moft men looked upon it as of great uncertainty : and of
ali men the Jews, who fufler no Blood tp come into their Lips, muft
moft diflike it.

At P ref kur g  they have a ftrange way of Execution, ftill ufed at
Metz.,  and fome other places, by a Maid, or Engine like a Maid finely
drefled up with her hands before her. The Malefačtor falutes her
firft, and then retires. But at his fecond falute flie opens her hands
and cuts his Heart in Tunder.

Though the Winter was lharp, yetthe advantage of Stoves and Iv¬
ino- betvveen two Feather-beds made it tolerable: For they ufe Stoves

X % ’ here

156’ A Defcription of  Vienna.

here as in other parts of Germanj,  where they lodge and eatin Stoves;
and great Perfons have Stoves in the Church, or fuch as look in to the
Church. There are Stoves alfo in the publick Schools where Ledures
are read. And this way of lying between two Feather-beds, witha
neat laced fheet fpread over, is more convenient in a cold Country,
than moft othe-rs they make ufe of. For in the common Inns in Ger-
many  they generally fleep upon Straw, and alfo in Hungary  almoft eve-
ry where ; and more Eafterly upon the ground, fpreading a Car pet or
Saddle-cloth under them: and more Northerly they content them-
felves with the SkinsofBeafts, Bear s., Elks,  or the like; upon which
they fleep in the night. Thofe that fleep loweft are cooleft in a Stove;
thofe that lie upon Tables, Benches, or higher, are more expofed to
the heatTheCitizens of Eienna  are well attired,and ufe Furs very much
The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet, lined or faced therewith.
The Plače feemed to be healthful • but they fpeak much of the Golica
Auširiac-ajs  an Endemical and Local Difeafe,very hardly yielding unto
good Medic Ines.  They fpeak good German  at the Court and in the Ci-
ty; but theCommon & Country people-feemed to fpeak grumblingly,
and befides their accent, have divers words difterent from other parts.

They have a Cuftom upon St.!dicholas-day  to putfome fmall Gift into
the Cluldrens fliooes; among other things they put in Medals and Dol-
lars made of paper and flour,gilded and filvered over, yet fcarce vvorth
a penny. They fell Troehies  or Tddlets  in the markets, made of the
pulp of the Fruit of Hip-lriar y  made fharp witli Špirit  of Sulphur^
very refrefhing. Some carry about them a Thtlnder-sdone  as a defence
againft Thunder : and they rub their-ChildrehsGums with a Wblfs
tcoth inftead of Coral.

When I was at 'Fenice,  in the time of the Carnival,  I obferved many
Recreations and Shews, as Rope-dancing, flying down the Rdpe, cut-
ing offBulls-necks withSwords,andmany other. But -ziViema  a nota-
ble trick which I[faw there, pleafed me much: A man of a middle Sta-
ture laid.dovvn upon his back, and a heavy An vil was placed upon his
Breafl, as much as two men could well lift, then two other men
with great Hammers laid on, until 'they had given almoft an hun-
dred blows, and cut in funder a great Horlhooe of iron, about half an
inch thick.

Here is no Chriftian Religion publickly permitted but the Ro-
man,  and therefore thofe of the Protefian',  and Rej'or m eri Religion  are
fain to refort to Prefburg,  Forty miles off for which they have fome
convenience by the Danule  , and a Coach  which goes every day.
In the time of Ma&imilian  the Second, they were permitted tile Ex-
ercife of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Grof s,  in the Ci-
ty of Fienna.  But afterwards were prohibited by Rodvlphus  the Se¬
cond. The Emperor Matihias  gave them perffliflion to meet at F/er-
nals,  a little more than an Englijh  mile from Vienna;  and gave leave
to their Minifiers  to come into the City, and there to chrijien, mar-
ryJsaptizepMX& vifit  the fick.From which time they encreafed very much,
till Ferdinand  the Second, returning from the Battel of Prague,  ba-
nilhed their Minister  from Vienna^  and Arnolds,;  fent the Frejberr
Jorger,  to whom the Caftle of Arnolds  belonged, Prifoner unto Lintz ;
and never gave over till he had taken away their Privileges and Free-
dom of meeting publickly in any part of loiver Auftria.

But

A Defcription ofVizrim.  157

But here are no finali number of Jeivs,  who ha ve a diftinčt Habita-
tion affigned them over the VVater. They have alfo a Street allowed
them in the City for the day time, but they muft ali depart at night be-
yond the River into the Suburbs.

They are much diftafted by the Citizens and Tradefmen, and the
Scholars agree but ill with them. While I was at rienna  there was a
quarrel between them to an high degree. For the Scholars  aflaulted
the Jeivs  Town, beat, vvounded, and threvv divers of them into the Ri¬
ver. Divers Scholars  vvere wounded, fome killed, and alfo fome Soul-
diers, who were commanded out to compofe the Fray: and the Jeivs
Towfi was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City. Thiš
begot fuch ill Blood, and Complaints, that a good number of the
Jeivs  were to be banifhed at a certain day. The Jeivs,  to ingratiate
ivith the Emprefs, then with Child, prefented her with a noble Silver
Gradient  ihe would not receive it; and there Was great danger of the
general banifhment ofthem when I left that City,which was aftertvards
effečted, they being feverely prohibited from living, not only at Fien-
na,  but in any part of Auflria,  where there were formcrly whole Vil-
lages ofthem, ib as they were forced to betake themfelves into the Do-
minions of the. 7W,unto Trno?,into Poland  and Bohemia.  They being
not permittedto dvvell in the Neighbour Countries of Zfog«ry,fubječt
to the Emperor, Styria,  or Carinthia.  But many of them vvent to Buda
and were befiegedthere in the year i684.and becoming obftinate haters
of the Germansy\sey  affifted the Turks  with their PurfeS and vvith vvhat
elfethey were able to maintain the Town againft the Imperial Forces.

I muft confefs they feemed ufeful. to Vienna  fdr ready accommodati-
on of any thing, either by fale or exchange, but the people looked
vvith an ill eye upon them, as takihg away much of their Trade and
Employment. They alfo looked upon them as ufelefs to them in war
for the defence of the plače as Souldiers ; and wcre not without fome
jealoufie that they held Correfpondence vvith the Turki,  and gave
them Intelligence of their Affairs. Vet the Souldiery dcalt much
vvith them, and Captains for the fuddain habiting, furnifhing, and ac-
commodating of their Companies. And dining one day vvith a
Commander at a Jeivs  Houfe,amongft other Difcourfe,I asked thejfejp
concerning the ten Tribes,  and vvhere they vvere ? He faid they ivere
far off in  Afia, b yond a great Lake ivhich ivas continually fiormy, anl
fcarce pad'able, but upon their Sabbath-day, upon ivhich days the Jeivs
do not willingly tratel.

I have feen their Circumcifon  at Rome, Padua,  and other parts.
Their Phyficians,  ordinarily profefs great škili in Vrineš ;  and the com-
mon people refort unto them rather than unto Chrisiians,  and are fo
ctedulous, and have fuch an opinion of them, thatthey might be made
to believe they have fome old Receipts  of King Solomun.

There are many Jeivs  in Ita'y,  yet they feem to me to be in greater
numbers in Germany.  In Amsterdam  they are alfo grovvn very nu-
merous. At Franckfurt  they told me there were feven thoufaod of
them, vvhich feemed fcarce credible. At Colen  they are in great num¬
bers : at Hamburg,  not a few. But the greateft number furely is in
Rrague.

v  Though they be permitted in many Countries, yet divers Chriflian
Princes  and States  have affigned them fome mark in their Habitt,

to

A Defcription  o/Vienna.

to diftinguifh them. In Avignon  their Hats arčyellow.  In haly  their
Hats  are covered over with Taffate.  In Germany  they wear Ruffs  and
Gowns  with great Capes.  In Holland  I obferved no diftinčtion. But
the Jevos  there, moft of them having come out of Portugal,  there may
be fome fufpicion of them from their complexion.

Laftly, when I confider the old ilrength of jdienna,  confifting in
an old reali  and a deep Ditch,  I cannot much vvonder that. Matthias
Corvlnus,  King of Hungary,  took this City. And I muft afcribe it,
under God, unto the fingular.valour and rcfolution of the Defendants,
that Solpman  the Magnificent, with two hundred thoufand men, was
not able to take it, and though he made large breaches, could never
enter it, but loft fome thoufands at an Aflault, and departed at laft
with the lofs of a great part of his Army. But this plače is now in a
far better condition flrongly fortified , and able to refift the greateft
Forces of Turky.  The houjes  are cleared from the wall  ; and yet for
better fecurity, when I was there, Count Souches  advifed the Emperor
to puli down part of the Sulurbs  upon the other fide of the neareft
branch of the Danule,  left the Turks  might take advantage to play up¬
on the two Baftions  on that fide.

It wouldbeafad lofs for Chrtftendom,  if this plače vvere in the
hands of the Turk ; and no man knovvs where he would reft. If he
Ihould begin with this plače, and take it, the ftrong holds of Ral, Ko¬
mar  <7,and Leopoldftadt  vvould want their fupport,and foon fall into his
Fcflefllon; and if he were Lord (fiAuftriafi  great part of Germanj  wou!d
lie bare unto him : and probably it \vould not be long before he vifi-
ted Italy,  into which Country he would then find many ways. Vet
this hath fince been attempted, with great force, apd violence; when
in the year one thoufand fix hundred and eighty three-The Grand Seig-
nior  fent Kara Muftapha Bajja,  with an army ofan hundred and fcur-
fcore thoufand men into Auftria,  who befieged, afifaulted, and ftor-
med this plače for two months together, till fuch time as the Chrifti-
ari Army came do\vn and relieved it. For the Garrifon  under the
Command of Count Stahremlerg  having behaved themfelves moft cou-
rageoully, and dayly fhown much valour and Bravery, in fuch fort,
that before the Seventh of September  they had deftroyed fifty thou¬
fand of the Turks;  The King of Poland,  the Elečtor of Saxony,  the
Elečtor of Bsudria,  came five days after, ali at the head of their own
forces. The Duke of Loraine,  the Duke of Saxen-Lawenlurg,  the two
Marquifles of Baden,  the Prince de Croy,  and the Emperprs Generals,
and Colonels, Caprara, Leflye, Rahhata, Dumvald, Pa ! fy,  Baron M.ercy,
Halvoeil, Diepenthal,  and others. And thus United, totally routed the
Tu kipi  army,and made the Grand Vizier, Kara Muftapha,  fly before
them andleave alf his .provifion, Ammunition and Riches behind him,
having nothing left him, but a fad repentance for his rafh attempt,
and time to confider how little he was like to be beholden to thofe who
emploved him, wilhing to himfelf, no doubt, by this time that the
Ottoman.  family had never come to this greatnefs as to be able to com¬
mand him, and fo many thoufand more to run their heads, to no
purpofe, againft the ftrong walls of Beatch.  And would then have been
well fatisfied, that old Ertogrul,  and Dunler  had ali ah ng continued
Shepherds. intheEaft, Like many of th ir tam Jv before them ra-
iher tbao ever to have attempted to march Wcd~vtard, or that Baja,
zedi

I

-

A Defcr/ption  o/Vienna. 15^

zet s  hawk had never flown crofs the Hellefpont ,to difcover Countries
that muft thus prove burial places to the Mufulman.  However to
Belgrade  he was forced to fly, and tltere, for ali his painsand labour,
dye by the lofs of his head, which he, yielded quietly .to an of
the Janifaries,  ferit on purpbfe to reccive it, Qhly with this intima-
tion,That the Sultan  had* promifed-hira-othertvife. Thbfe at Fienna y
in the mean time, giving God thanks, rejoycing, triumphing, and
covning Medals in memory of dieir 'dellverance, two ofwhich, of
Gold, 1 have here inferted.

.'," z ~ f"' Tf .

The ftrft hath on the obverfe the’ head of the prefent Emperor Leo¬
poldu  encompafled and fupported with arms,and Trophies; with this
Infcription;

Irnp. Ctefar, Leopold.  i. .F. F. Augpf. P. P.

Imperator C ref ar Leopold m Primat Paus F<zlix Augufut Pater P at rite.

JP S. ■ Jr A  K :

And on the reverfe an Arm coming out of a Cloud, over the City.
of Pienna,  which fupports the Imperial Crown, Sword> Scepter, and
Globe with this Infcription ;

Confilio et Induliria.

' The Second Medal hath high putch  Infcription?. On the obverfe
the Seige  of Pienna^  with this about it ;

■. ftoi :  .,

Fhis is the Finger of God. ;

And on the reverfe this Infcription j ,

Tke Tur kifb pride which slreightnedTttnm^fror/i the fourteenth of
July, to the tivelfth of  September, 1683. masthat day totally dejlroy*
e d by the band of the Lord.

To tliefe, I have alfo addedanoble Gold Medal of the Emperor
Ferdinand  the fecond. Thefe are ali delineated bigger than they real-
ly are, that they might appear the more plainly; yet this laft weighs
above fixtcen Guinney$ y  and is no ordinary Piece,

i6o

Cornenbuvg.

Aking a farewel of the Imperial City  of Vienna,  I or-
dered my J<urney  for Prague  in Bohemia^  vvhich is
SfeS ufually fixdays Journey by Coach in the Summer
an d eight in the Winter.  I went over the great
S Bridge dbVie wM,upon thejlarge Stream ofthe Danube
pa ^ ln 8 ^- v  ChappeloiSt. Bridget^dt  an eight-
fquare Figure.This Bridke  is a very great and maflv
Work. fupported Vy many high Zr^crand Pimber^  and hath between
two and three thoufand Trees  laid upon it crofs,or fide by fide,from one
fide of the Bridke  to the other, for the paflage over it after the German
manner of making Bridges.  At Ratisbone  there is a handfbme Stone-
bridge  over the Danube,  and bctvveen that plače and Vienna,  divers of
WMd;but fromPGenna  to Belgrade  I obferved none but what were made
with Boats.

Having pafled the River,  I entred into the Tranf-Danubian Auflria
or that part of Auflria  vvhich lies betvveen the Danube  and the Ri¬
ver Theya,  and came unto Corneuburg,  a pretty Town, about vvhich
plače the Emperor often hunts; it is near the Hill Bifneberg,  vvhich
is oppofite unto Kalenberg.  The Sivede*  advanced far when theV
took this placc in the laft wars, and held it fo well, that they were not
eafily forced out of it. From thence I came to Stockerau^  near the
mouth of the River Mida^  vvhere it runs into the Danube.  A plače
much noted for the death of St. Colman,  a Scotch  Saint, highly honour-
ed in thefe parts. From thence to Gunterfdorff,  fo to Colnedorff  or Kol-
dorff y  which although it be on.the South of the River Theya,  is ac-
counted the firft Village  of Aboravia,  and then came unto Žnaim. ,

In

A  Journey  from  Vienna  to  Hamburg. 16T

In ali this part of Aufiria,  \vhich extends a great length on the
Nprth fide of the Danube,  conceived to hav$ been anciently inhabited
by the Marcomanni  and £^W/,there are fevv or no Tomns  of antiguity,
largene/s , or note ;  for the Romans  made their Stations and Colonies
upon the South-fide of the Danube ;  but the Country is full of Vil-
lages, and popfulous. One of the chiefeft Towns is Crembs,  which
forne call Cremona Auftriee,  which I faw as I čame down the Danube.
A great part-of this Country was notably harrafled and pliindered by
the Smedes.  The Soji  is light and eafie to be ploughed.

Zanim  is a handfome plače, with many Painted Houfes in it, and ac- Znaim
counted the fourth chief Tomn  in Mahren,ov Moravia', (fi)lmutz,Br'un,
and Iglam  being the other three) this plače is famous for the death
of the Emperor Sigifmund.  It is feated by the River Theya,  vvhich
divides Moravia  from Aufiria  and running atlaft into the River Marek,
aflbrds accommodation of paflage into the Danube.

■ From thence we pafled by Vlverskirken, Paulitz,  and Moravian j, 1m
Budmeifie,  to Zimmaiv,  and by Byrnitz  came to Igla,or Iglau,  upon the
River Igla,  which at laft runs into the great River Marek,  a very plea-
fant plače, feated upon a Hill, on the Frontiers of Bohemia.  It is
well fomfied a la moderna,  upon one fide, and hath one of the largeft
Piazza\  that I ha ve feen.

Moravia,  is a pleafantand fruitful Country affording plenty of ne-
ceflaries for life ; the people are plain dealing, flout, and make good
Souldiers.. It is commodioufly furnilhed with Rivers, the greateft
whereof is the Mora  or Marek,  vvhich arifing ih the Northern part
thereof, runs quite through the Country, and enters the Donatv  by
Teben  not far from Prefburg.  The other confiderable Streams are the
Tkeya  or Thaifa,  the Sivarta,  the Schmitta,  vvhich run into the Marek.
In the laft Turkifh  wars the Tartars  having pafled the Wag  in Munga-
ria,  made incurfions into Moravia,  and carried away fome thoufands
of the Inhabitants.

Leaving Igla,  wee foon came into Bohemia, coming intč Steck-
en,  then to Teutehin Broda  by the River 5jc2«dt,formerly a ftrorig plače
taken by Zifca,  the famous Bohemian General,  who then forced the
Emperor Sigifmund  to fly out of Bohemia  by the way of Igla.  From
thence \ve came to Haberne,  and fo to Janikam  : At this plače, upon
the zyth  of February,  1643. was fought that memorable Battel be-
tween the Smedes,  commanded by Lconard TorFtenfon,  and the Impe-
rialifis  under Count Hatzfield, Goetz,  and other Commanders.  The
Imper.ialifts  had the better at firft; but fallingupon the Enemies Bag-
gage, and being two greedy of Booty, they were defeated, three
thoufand flain, iour thouland taken prifoners, with their General Hatz¬
field,  and fix or feven Colonels. The fuccefs hereof gave the Smedes
advantage to proceed further , and into Silefia  and Auffria.  In
this Tovvn meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schdclitz,
vvhich is not far from the Rifgelurg,  or Mountain of Gya;ts,  about the
Head ofthe River Elbe,  I enquired of him concerning the fpirit Ri-
benfal,  which is faid to ihfeft that Country, but he could fay no-
thing therein ofhis own knowledge; and though he was confidenr
that there was fuch a Špirit, yet he confefled that for tvvelve years
it had done no hurt. In Hills, Moumains,  and placesof Mineš  fuch
reportsareordinary. R is reported that a Špirit haunts the Silver

Y Mineš

1^2


ffottenlierg.

Prague.

A  ]oitrney  from  Vicnna  to  Hamburg.



Mineš  of Brunfivick :  and another to be in the Tina Mine  of Slacken-
walde  in this Country of Bohemia,  and to vvalk in the fhape of a Mvnk,
who ftrikes the Miners,  fings and plays on the Bag-pipes,  and doth
inany fuch Tricks. And Agri cola  in the latter end of his Sixth Book
De re M tallica,  gi’> es this fbr one reafon why Mineš,  or pajjages  in
Mineš,  are given over.

From Janikaiv  I travelled to Czaflavo,  a good Town, and the chiefeft
in the Czaflaiver  Circle: In this plače they fay that iZifca  was buried,
that famous Bohemian General ; he loft one Eye by an Arroiv,  and was
at length blind of both,yet gave not over the war, and proved fuccefs-
ful in it. He wilhed his Friends  to make a Dr um  of his S k in,  which
fliould ferve to fright away their Enemies. And though he cared not
for any Sepulchral Monument, yet he had one in this plače.

From Czaflam  we came to Guttenberg,  or Cottenberg,  about eight
Bohemian  miles from Prague,  every mile being five or fix Englijh
miles. A large Town, and much frequented, not far from the River
Albis  or Elbe,  of efpecial note for the Silver Mineš  about it : The
Hills  near it are not high, and confequently the Mineš are not fo
deep as thofe of Hungary,  and fome others in Germany*  yet fome are
above feventy or eighty Fathoms.  They have wrought at thefe Mineš
feven hundred years, and there are about thirty of them. I went
down into that which was firft digged, but afterwards left for a long
time, but they work there now again, it is called the Cotna,  or Auf~
der Cotten,  upon the Cotten,  or Coat-hill;  and as the Story goes a
Monk  vvalking over this Hill found a kind of a Silver Tree  fticking to
his Garment, which was the occafion that they afterwards digged and
built thefe Mineš,  and the plače retains the name of Cottenberg.

The Mine  into which I defcended near the Town, is but nineteen
Fathoms  deep ; the chief Vein  of the Or e  runs South, and is about
a foot in breadth : the Ore  holds or contains in it Silver  and Cop-
per,  fo that out of an hundred pound weight of Ore,  they ordinarily
get an Ounce of Silver,  and eight, nine, or ten ounces or mere of
Copper,  even to pounds, but it is not vvell known, for the Copper-uorks
are the Emperors. The Vndertakers  get out what Silver  they can,
and afterwards fell the Ore,  unto the Empero, s Officers; but fome Ore
is fo rich as to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver.  A blew Eartb
vvhich they meet with in digging, affords the beli hopes of Ore.  Two
men lately perifhed in this Mine,  having made a fire in it, being either
choaked with the fmoak, or, as they thought, by the poyfonous ex-
halations forced out of the Minerals by the fire. I have read that
Libufla  the Princefs, and reputed Sorcerefs of Bohemia,  foretold many
things concerning thefe Mineš;  but certain it is, that for the advan-
tage and profit thefe bring, the Town hath fuflered much in many
wars. The Emperor Sigifmund  made haft out of it upon the ap-
proach of Zifca,  and feeing he could not hold it,burntthe Town ;but
it was foon rebuilt and poflefled by Žifca,  whofe party called it the
Purfe of Antichrifi.

Leaving Cottenberg,  I came to Colline  and to Bohemian Broda, fo
ilamed to diflirguifh it from Dutch  or Teutonick Broda  before menti-
oned, a confiderable good Town, and from thence came to Prag, or
Prague,  the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia.  The
PPalls  of this City feem to enclofe the greateft Circuit of ground of
/ any

'  A  Journey  from  Vienna  to  Hamburg*  163

any I have feen in Germany  but the Hills and void fpaces within if
take up a large Tračf,and therein it is like the City of Ay<?«in France  f
it is feated upon the River Muldau,  by the Bohemians  named Vltaue,  a
large rapid River, arifing in the South part of Bohemia,  and before it
arrives at Prague,  receives the’ River Sarfua  and the Watta  into it ;
and Northvvard of Prague  the River Egra,  and joyns with the
Elbe.

Thisgreat plače confifts of thrce TovvnS, named the OZ/, the A T <?;^
and the Kleine Seitten,  or leffer Toren.  The old Toren  lies upon the
Eaft ofthe River M.uT ! au,  is very populous, full of Buildings, private
and publick. Very confiderable in this part is alfo the Univerfity,where> i
in are great numbers of Students and Scholars, there being but one
Univerfity in Bohemia  ; many perfons alfo reforting thither from o-
ther Countries. It is fcarce credible what is reporred of the num-
ber of Scholars in Prazne  in former Ages, as hath been delivered by
divers Authors. And Leivis du M.ay,  Councellor unto the Duke
' of Wirtenburg,  affirms, That there are at prefent fcarce fo many
Students in ali Germany  as there wereat Prague  in the year 1409.
when they reckoned above Forty thoufand under the Rettor/hip  of
John Hffs. Charles  the Fourth Emperor, and King of Bohemia,
founded the VnrverJitj  of Prague,  giving equal privileges to the
Bohemians, Polanders,  and Germans : and when he would retrench
his favours towards Strangers, there wcnt out of the Town in a
weeks time twenty four thoufand Scholars, and a little after, fixteen
thoufand, whereby. we mayjudge there were more Scholars in Pra¬
gue  than other perfons in fome great Citi s. There are alfo in this
old Toren AiversColleges  and Cloffiers.  The Jefuites  have a fair hand-
fom College,  near unto the Bridke,  but the Buildings  of the old Toivn
are inferiour to thofe of the leffer Toren.

The neve Toren  is large, and together with the River, encompafičd
the old,  and is divided from it by a large Trench  or Ditch,  into which
they can let in the River. The Irifh  have a Cloffler  of Francifcans
near unto an old Tover  in the Wall  of the old Toren.  The Jefuiteš
have alfo begun a large Cloyjler,  which, if finifhed according to its
beginning and defign, vvill be very fpacious and noble. They are
now making Baslions  about the Toivn  at one end thereof there is al¬
fo a Citadel,  but not finifhed, at Wifferaht,  or ITiffegrade,  formcrly The Princdt
the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia,  and alfo of the famous Princefs Libu Jl a ‘
Libuffa,  the Daughter of Crocus,  and Wife unto Primiflaus.

The Kleine Seitten,  or leffer Prague,  far exceeds the other for plea-
fantnefs and beauty of Buildings and fair PalaceS. This part lies
Weflward of the River Muldau,  which between this and the old Toren,
is paflable by a ftrong Stone-bndge,  confifting of fixteen great Arches,
being about Seventeen hundred ioot long, and Thirty five foot broad,
and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end.
A great part of this Town lies high, and upon the Hill ftands Hrat-
fchin  or Zipper Prague,  and a Summer Houfe of the Emperors, befides
a Magnificent Palače of the Emperors, as King of Bohemia ; and by
it a fair Cathedral Church  dedicated to St. Veit,  firft built by St. Wen-
ceflaus,  Dukeof Bohemia,  923. from whence the Town and River is
bed viewed. In this Church are divers old Monuments  for great Per¬
fons ; as for Pogiebrachius,  g Bohemian  King, VPencfflaus ,Rodolphus  the

Y 2, Second,

A Journey from  Vienna to  Hamburg.



Second, Charles  the Fourth, Ladifl.m, Maocimilian  the Second, and
other Arch-Dukei  and Ernperors.  There are alfo many Hou fes of the
Nobilitj  in this part of the City. The Palače ard Garden of Colare-
do  is exceeding neat, though fmall. But I was moft pleafed with the
Palače of Count Wallenfieyn,  Duke of Friedland>  General unto the Em-,
peror Ferdinand  the Second, who being fufpeded to Ufurp tkat King-
dom, was afterwards killed at Egra.  This Palače was built iipon the
Ruins of an hundred Houfes, purpofely plucked down to make room
for it ; vvherein the Hall is large,the Garden handfom ; upononefide.
whereof there is a plače to manage Horfcs,and near unto it a Filh-pond;
in another part there is a noble Aviary  with a Garden and Trces in it,
after the manner of the A.viary  of Prince Doria  at G<?wrf,which is eight-
paccs long,and eighteen broad. The Stable is large, and worth the
leeing, wherein there is a M-.rble Eillivt  betvveen each Horfe, and for e-
very Horfe there is piaced in a niche of the Wall a Račk of' Steel, and
Manger of Marble, and over his Head liangsa Pičiure of the Horfe,
as big as the Life, with hisName under it. Among tiie reft; I obfcrved
that aBay-horfe had for his Name Mmte d^ropAMat^Bt/a donnaps\Q-
ther EjpagnolettapmA  his moft beloved Horfe was named Mas Quyridc.

Some have thought that the beft bigb German  is fpokeii in this part
of Prague  ; and there living fo many oftlie Nobility and great Per-
fons,it is not to be \yondred at,that their Language is better than ordinac¬
ijo But the common Language of Bohemia  is a Dialečb of the Sclap
vonjan,  though v.cry many fpeak alfo Fligb duteb,  as we found in ali
our paflage through that Ccuntry. Koningfmark  being vvith his For r
ccs on the Frontiers of Bohemia^  a difcontented Colonel of the Impe-
rial/Jts,  came unto him, making it probable that he might furprize
Hratfcbin,  and the leller fide of Pr^g»e,which he fuddainly attempted^
and fo fuccefsfully, that he furprized many Officers, and old Cofa
redo  in his Bed, getting fo grčat a Booty, that he could fcarce carry it
away.

A Part of Prague  is inhabited by Jews, and called the Jeivs Toivn ■
there are no fmall number of them, and many rich, as trading in ali
Commodities, and have good škili in Jewels, and feveral forts of Stones
digged out of the MPes  in Bohemia  : I bought fome Bob mian Topazes
of them, neatly cut and well-figured, and fome which were very large
and clear, werc at the rate cf feven or cight Dollars.  During my
ftay herc, I had a great defire to have faluted Jobannes Marciu Marci.,
a famous Phyiician and Philofopher of Prague,  and alfo to have indu-
ccd him to a Correfpondence with the Royal Society,  but I underftood
that he had left this'World, to the great grief of Learned Men in thefe
and other parts.

Many here do fpeak ftill of John Hufs,  and Jerome  of Prague,  and I
have feen Silver Medals  of them. They were furely very notable
men ; and I lhallonly fet dovvn what AEneas Sylvius^  or Pope Pius  the
Second faid of them. Johannes retate major  (s authpritate, dodrinli,
(d facundia (uperior Hiero :ymus, pertulerunt ambo conslanti animo ne¬
čem, & quafi ad Epalum insjitati^admcendium properarunt, nullam emit-
tentes aiocem qu£ miferi animi poflet ferre ind cium : ubi ardere cepe-
runt, hymium cectnere quem uix flamma fragor ignis intercipere po-,
tuit, nemo Philofopborum tam for ti animo m> tem pertuliffe t radii ar
quam ijii incendium. In Hifi. Bobemica. John  was of greater years
' and

A  Jouxney from  Vienna  to  Hamburg;  165

and authoritv, jerome  -'of more E!pquenče and Learning: both of t em
endurcd-their Death’witli great conftancy,-and went unto the fire as
though invited to a Bariquet: whcn they began to burn, the} 7  fung an
Hymn, which the flame and fire could fcarce intercept. Noneol the
old Philofophers endurcd their death with fuch a courageous mind as
thefc the ftre.

The lame Author compares Prague  unto the City of Florence  in
7«/Č4wy,whercfore having foen both places, I canričt omit to fay fcme-
thing, I had a view of the City of 'Florence  from the top of the Do¬
ma.,  or Čathedral,  and of Prague  from the Church of St Veit,  upori
the Hill in the lefler Town : Prague  feemed to my eye to contain
a far greater Circuit thari Florence;  it feemed alfo more populous,and
to exceed it verv much in the number of Pcople, the Streets larger,
and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houfes being of Glafs, lookcd
not fp ta.tt<‘r’dly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence.  The Ri-
ver A^,-whioh runs through Florence js  not to bc ccmpared vvith the
Muldau  at- -Prague,  having run about an hundrcd miles from its Head.
The large, 'mafly, long-Srone-Bridge exceeds any of, if not ali, the four
Bri 'gos 'of -Florence.  The Emperors Palače alfo upon the Hill is very
ftately : Butasfor the wcll-paved Streets of Florence,  the Damo,  or
Čathedral  with black and white Marble, with a Cupola,  fecond only to
that of'St. Peten  of Rome,  for the incomparable Chappe l  of St. Lau-
rence,  and the Dukes Gallerj  and Rareties,  I mufi cOnfefs I fivv not any
tbing in -Prague  which anftvered them. At ffliffenberg,  or the fflhite
Hill  near Prague,  that dcciding Battel was fought Novemb.  8. i6zo.
betweeii -Frederick,  Prince Palatine  of the Rbine,  elečted King of Bo¬
ke min,  and the borces of the Emperor Ferdinand  the Second, vvhich
gave fuch a deep blow unto the Proteftant Party,  vvherein fo many
of FredericPs  Forccs wcre flain and drovvned in the River in their
flight, vvherein alfo that famous Commander Papenheim  was found
lying among the dead, who notvvithftanding died not ofhis vvounds,
but waS relerVed to end hisdays vvit-h the King of Siveden  in the me-
morablc Battei of Lutzen.

From Prague  I defigned to pafsby water dovvn the Muldau,  \vhich
unites with the Elbe  about Melnick,  and fo down the AVZcunto Ham-
lurg.  But the Winter advanemg, and the VVeather proving cold, the
Boats did not go as in Summcr, and therefore 1 took my Jourhey by
La-nd, and leavmg Pralne  and thc -Muldau  on the right liand I pafled
the firft day to Zayythal,  the next to Weluerne,  and fo to Budin
and Labajitz  upon the Elle.  Havmg pafled over the Egra,
a confidcrable Ri-ver-,-arifing not far from the City of Egra,  and at laft
running into the -Elle;  the ne\t by the Caflle of Kriefflein,  or Warre-
sfone,  feated upon a high fleep Rock, I came toAufig,  a fmall City not
far from the Elbe, having little remarkable in it, like many other fmall
Cities ofRo/^^ža.and fo tbrvvard to Nolndorff,  where we lodged upon
Mount 7ftf/^erg,thedayafter vveentred into Afz/«/^.paliing by Peter-
faald  and Hellenporff  the firft Village in Mifnia,  and #z/fZč-Z,where are
Iron Mineš  about eighteen Fathomsdeep, and Ir on ivorks.

We novv underftood that- Bohemia  was a larger Countrv than tve
expečted it lies round, and fome fay it is three days poftage over ;
dthers that the Diameter extends two hundred miles. From Igla  upon
the Confmes unto Hellendorff,  it took me nine days Jourrey in No-
“ -■ i icnibef

A Journey from  Vicnna to  Hamburg.

vember  by Coach.  not reckoning the time I ftaid at Prague.  In many
places there are very ill Paflages, and fo rudely mended with great
Trees, laid fidc by fide, that they are often very troublefome to
pafs.

We travelled aftcrtvards totvards Drefden,  in a fruitful Country,
wherein were many Peer  in moft parts of the way, in fight of ihe
Caftle of Pilnitz,  a ftrong plače, and feated high. I could not but
caft an eve on the Rocks  behind us in the Foreft of Bobemia,  vvhich
looked like the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclofed Bohemia,
which Country is defcribed with a Foreft or Woods round about it.

But I confefs I did not reallv perceive that there was fuch a Wood
round about it as is commonly fet forth in Map p s  ; only both within,
and alfo in many parts of the Borders, there are great Woods which
are conceived to have bcen part of the Hercinian Foreft.

The Bohemians  are a ftrong, ftout, and hardy People, make good
Souldiers, and have made wars both at home and abroad ; and Hifto-
ries  are full of their warlike Exploits. The chief Magazine  of the
King is at Egra.  a ftrong City, accounted the Second of Bohemia.
The Country affords allo lufty and ftrong Horfes. The common
fort of People are boyfterous, rough, and quarrelfome, efpecially in
drink, whereto they are too much addičted. The Nobility and Gen-
try are civil and kind unto Strangers. There are many great Fami-
lies of the Nobility, among which that of Rofenberg  and Popelis  an-
cient, and of high eftcem. Since theunhappy accepting of the Crown
by Frederick  Count Palatine,  and the ill fuccefs upon it, there hath
been a great alteration in this Country, both as to People and their
Manners; for thereupon many thoufands left the Kingdom, and many
who remained, turned their Religion. And the Emperors have ufed
the like feverity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions.

Vrefden.  The next confiderable plače we came unto was Drefden  in Mifnia,
as Well worth the feeing. as almoft any Town in Germany. Drefden  is
the Seat and Refidence of the Elečtor of Saxony,  feated upon the River
£/A?,overwhich there is a very noble Stone-bridge ofSeventeen Ar-
ches. The City is very well fortified after the Modern way, the
Baftions  covered or lined with Brick, and in each BaPtion  a Cavallier :
It hath alfo a large Trench  or Ditch  about it, in fome places double;
and the River Elbe  adds unto its ftrength. The Walls are very
ftrong : and they fay, that vvhen the firft Stone vvas laid to build
them, there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup  gilded, a Bock  of
the Laivs,  and another of Coyns,  and three Glaftes  filled with tbine.  It
hath alfo three Gates. The places moft worth the feeing are thefe :
The Italian  Garden in the Suburbs; the Hunt er s Houje  in the old.
P oven  beyond the River  ; the Eletlors Palače;  his Houfe  for voild
Beafts;  his Stable-hcufe  and Arjenal,  of which I ihall fet down fome
things obfervable in their kind. In the Eletlors Palače,  the Hall  is
very large, and handfomly painted with Cities, Gyants, and the Ha-
bits of feveral Nations, and fet out with feven large branched Can-
dlefticks: But that which affords the greareft delight is his Kunftkam-
mer. Art-Chamber,  or Colletlion of Rareties,  both of Art  and Nature.
In the firft Partition are to be feen ali manner of well made Inslru¬
men' s  belonging to moft Trad.es,  as Joyners, Turners, Barbers, Smitbs,
Chirurgeons,  and other Artiftcers : Iftlruments  to force open Doors,

CbtftS)

I'

A  Journey  from  Vienna  to  Hamburg;  187

Chefts, &c.  In the other Chambers thefe and the like are obferva-
ble.

A Tube-glafs  four Ells long. A large llem Turkifh-glafs.  Variety
bf C oral  and artificial VVorks  of it, Fowls  made out of Mother of Pearl.
DrinkingCups  in the fliape o^Dragons, Elephants, &c. Caftles  of Gold
and Mother of Pearl.  Many Fowls  and Cups  made out of Nautili,  and
other Shells,  and out of Oefirich-eggt.  A fine Oeslrich  made out of itš
with the Feathers  of Gold.  A Cup  made out of the Bali  takeri
but of an Oxes Stomach,  richly fet, about a foot long. A Stone  as big
as my fift, like a Bezoar-ftone,  taken out of a Morje.  A Purfe  made
out of the Linum Incomluflibile. Silver Ore  from the Mineš  of Frei-
lerg,  almoft pure, in Jlrings  and fhoots.  A Natural Crofs  of Silver
Ore.  One hundred and twenty one Heads  carved on the outfide of
a Cherry~ftone.  A Religious Man  or Friar  of Japan  carved in Box.  A
Chryslal Calinet,  fold by Oliver Crormvell,  wherein is kept a Ring
Which hath Stones  in it in the fliape of a Caftle.  His Majefly King
Charles  the Second on Horfe-back, carved out of Iron.  A Head  of
King Charles  the Firft. A Glafs Organ. Topaze s  unpolifhed, ten Inches
in Diameter.  A Cup  out of a Topaze. Emeralds  an inch in Diame-
ter,  as they grow in the Rock,  refembling the Vitriolum Nativum,  as I
faw it in Paradife-hill  by Schemnitz  in Hungary. Stones  named Thun-
der-Ftones,  fmelling of Fire. Rocks  made out of ali forts of Ore,  and
the name s  of the places written upon them from whence they were
digged.

The Figures of Fifbes  in Stones  out of Mansfield;  the Stones  are
dark-coloured, but the Fifhes  of a Gold or Copper colour. Ali forts
of Stones  which are to be found about Saxcny  and Mifnia  polifhed.
Two large pieccs of purfe Virgin Gold  out of the Mine.  A Calinet  of
ali forts of Apothecaries Injlruments  and chief Druggs.  A Hart  with a
Calinet  made in his fide, containing ali Medicines taken from a Hart.
A vohite Hart  as big as the Life,  made out of the Jhavings  and filings
of Harts-horn,  and looking like PlaiFter. Figures  printed in Trees. A
Špur  in part of a Tree. Horns  in Trees.

A Chamber of ali mahner of Mathematical Inftruments  and Charts.
A good Lilrarj  of Mathematical Books.  An ZJnicorns-horn,  which they
will ha ve to be of a Land Vnicorn,  being neither wrtathed nor hollow.
A Dart of Vnicorns-horn.  Among the Pili ur e s  in the farne Chambers
thefe feemed remarkable : A Pici ur e  by Colier,  of the Siege of Jerufa-
lem,  with great number of Figures,  and highly efteemed. Four Heads
of the Elements  made but of the Creatures  which belong to them in
Caricatura.  A painting of Merchant s Letters  ftuck behind green Tap\
A Storm  by Rulens.  Two Nuns  by Lucas van Leyden.  A P id ur e  of
Dr. Luther  in the Cloyfter,  in his Gbwn,  and after his Death.  There is
alfo great variety of excellent Clockmork,  and an attempt for a perpetu-
almotion\yf %rowling lullet.  A Cuckom  fings by Clockivork,  a Horfe-
man  rids, a Ship  iails, an old Woman  walks, a Centaur  runs
and ihoots, a Cral  creeps upon a Table fo well as to amaze and
delight; but among ali, the Cral  feems to be moft naturally imi-
tated. .

In the Stalle-houfe,  befides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horfes,
vvherein every Harfe  eats out of a Račk  of Iron,  and Manger  of Copper*,
and on a Pillar  by him his Coml, Bridle  and Saddle,  and other Necel-

s, faries;

i68 A Journey  from  Vicnna  to  Hamburg.

faries, hang ; befides a handfome Window with a Curtain before him.
There are obfervable a very fair Fountain  and pond  fet about vvith
handfome Ballifiers,  where the Horfies  are watered. A long walk  ar-
ched and painted with Herfies; over which is a Gallery  with the Pi¬
ti ur e s  of ali the Duke s  and Elecl or s  of Saxony,  both in their Milit ar  y
and Ete florah  Habits. Two Bed s  of Marbte.  Drinking Cups  vvhich
feem not great, yet fo cor trived as to hold divers quarts. A Spring
vvhich caufes a Horfemanva Silyer  to come riding in,bringing a Cup of
Wine  in his hand. A pair of noble P iti o Is  with ali the Stories  of the
New  and Old Testament  upon them. A Glafs Gun.  A Gun  vvhich
fnoots offForty tmes without charging again. A Piece  vvhich Ihevvs
the manner of the firft invehtion of firiking Fire  in Gun s. KLock
vvithout a cock.

A Chamber of rich Sleds  for Horfies,  made ufe ofin Jollity and pom-
pous Courfes upon the Snoiv.  A white Bears skin  fiuffcd. Tiger s  and
Lyons  Skins. A Cafioivares  Skin. Good Armour  for Men  and Horjes.
Many forts of Indian Money, Duntans,  and other forts. A Piflure  of
Laplanders  and their C udoru s.  A Lapland D rum  with Figures  to con-
jure by. A Chamber of ali Hunting Ar m s  and Ncejaries.

The Armamentarium-Armory  or Arfienal,  'is a long, fquare Buildirg,
wherein are about Four hundred brafis Pieces  of Ordnance,  great num-
ber of Muskets  and Armour  in the upper. Room, Si Iver Coats  of Male,
pieces o£ Ordnance  to be charged behind. Retoris  and Alembicks  in
the fhape of Granados.  The Steeple  ofthe chief Church  was lately burr.t
by Lightning, and the Can n  melted vvhich were upon it.

In the Hunting-houfie,  in the old Torni,  are fifteen Bears  very vvell
provided for and looked unto. They have Fountains  and Ponds  to walh
themfelves in, vvherein they much delight: And nearto the Pondsx&
high ragged Pojiš  or Treesfa.  up for the Bears  to climb up, and Scafi-
jplds  made at the top to fun and dry themfelves; whcre they vvill alfo
fieep, and come and go as the IT eper  calls them. The Hom Gallery  is
. alforemarkable in this plače, out of vvhich there are three C hambers ;

one painted vvith feveral forts di Hunt ing ;  another with ali forts of
Fowl;  and a third with great variety of Beafis.

In the Houfie  for wild Beafis  I took notice of a Marian,  which is a
four-footed Beaft, that hangs upon Trees  by the Tail.  Alfo a wild  or
Mountain-Cat  of a large fize. \dtyoung Bears.  Five old hlačk Bears.  A
white Bear  very large; the feet,  the head,  and the neck  are longer than
thofe of the hlačk,  but not fo thick. Two Lyons.  Ten Luekfies;  very
fine Beafi',  in bignefis, colour,  and Jhape  betvveen a Tyg r  and a wild Cat;
the tipsof their Ears  and Tails  are hlačk,  their Eyes  lively, their Skin
Lyon*coloured, and fpotted, efpecially about their Eyes.

The Italian Garden  and Summer-houfe,  in the Suburhs  is very noble,
vvherein are two Ohelisks,  two gallant Fountains,  a Theatre  and good
Landskips.  This Garden  and Summer-boufe  were built by two of the
Prince Elečtor’s Eunuchr,  and aftervvards fold unto the Prince for fix
and twenty thoufand Dollars.

Drefden  is but a late City, and was formerly a Village. The Chur-
furkl,  or Eletlor,  was not in the Town ; but the Chur-prince  his Son
vvas there: A Perfon rather of low- than middle S tat ur e,  his Hair long
and yellow, his Face ruddy, his Body well fet and adive, and he is
very vvell beloved. The prefent Elcdor of Saxony,  is John George  the

* ; ■ Second,

A  Joumey  from  Vicnna  to  Hamburg.  i6y

Second, Grand Marfhal  of the Empire,  a great and povverful Prince,
who keeps a Royal Court  and Attendance,  having his Guards  and Officers
after the inanner of AVtfgf. His Dominions  lic in Mifnia, Thuringia,
Eoytland,  and part of Lufatia.  His Revenues  are large, from Impofiti-
ons  upon Commodities.  His Profit  great, from the Tax upon Beer,
which arifes to no fmall fum, efpecially in Wittenberg,Fo r ga,^nA Leip-
fick.  And his Silver Mineš  are confiderable. And the Funeralot
the laft Elečtor, foannes Georgius  the Firft, was very magnificent 1657.
at which there were twenty four Horfes  of State  covered with Z/W-,and
the Elečtoral Efcutcheon  embroydered thereon, and every one led by
two Gentlemen, and three thoufand five hundred perfons in mourii-
ing-

Dr. Luther s  HoTiday was kept when I was there. The chief Church
is very fair: They preach every morning at feven a Clock. The Lu-
theran  women mourn in white,  as others do in Black ;  and the woman
of the Houfe doth ordinarily iay Grace inftead of the man. The beli
High-dutch  is fpoken in this plače, and other parts of Mifnia,  which
is a very pleafant fruitful Country , and full of good Towns and
Villages.

Leaving this noble plače, I took not the neareft Road,but turned out
of the way unto Freiberg,  a plače noted for Silver Mineš ;  vvhereof I PMber^
had read fomething in Agricola,  and heard very much in thefe parts.
About an Englijh  mile or two from Freiberg,  there are many remarka-
ble Mineš.  I took notice of three of them : One called Auff denhohen
lerg,  or upon the hžgh Hill,  which is the deepeft in thefe parts, as being
leventy feven of their Fathoms  deep; each of their Fathoms  contains
tvvelve of their Ells,  and three of their ATA makes one of our Fa¬
thoms. So  that the depth of this Mine  exceeds any of thofe wherein
I was in Hungary.  There is another Mine  called Himmelfurft,  or the
Prince of Heaven,  wherein not long fince there was Ore  found fo rich,
as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty
Marks oi Silver,  or fixty five pounds in the hundred, but there was
not much of it.- And where the Eeins  are richeft, they are obferved to
be thinneft, about two fingers broad; but the ordinary Ore  is but
poor, holding an ounce, or an ounce and half, in an hundred pounds
weight; and ifit holds butjialf an ounce they work it. Nor is this
much to be wondered at, for in the vaft rich Mineš ofiPeru  and Chili,
they will work the Silver Ore  which cdntains four or five ounces in a silver Mineš-,
hundred pound weight; and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate
of the common Ore  of that rich Mountain of Potoji,  out of which
Hill alone, if we believe Albero Alonfo Barba,  Curate of the Parilh of St.
Bernard  in that City, there hath been more Silver  taken than would
cover ali Mifnia  over and over : For thus he faith, Potofi hath already
jielded between four andfive hundred Millions of pieces of Eight. A
quantity fufficient to make fuch another Hill of Silver : It is hard to
form a conception equal unto fo exorbitant a heap of Riches; but the
better to help our imagination herein,! know, that if the Ground were
covered with fo many pieces of Eight, laid as clofe to one another
as is poffible, they would take up the fpace of fixty Leagues fquare.

Here at Freiberg.  they have many ways to open the Ore  whereby it
may be melted ; as by Lead  and a fbrt of Silver Ore  which holds
Lead  in it. They have alfo Sulphur Ore  found here, which after it is

Z burned,

170  A  Joumey from  Vienna to  Hamburg.

-—-------——  -

Brimfione
Mm/,

burned, doth help much towards the fufion of Metals  : And befides
thefe, Slich,  or pounded and waihed Ore ; and Slacken,  which is the
Drofs or Cake, or Skum taken out of the Fortiegel,  or Pan  which re-
ceives the melted Miner als,  let out at the bottom of the melting Furnace.
Their Treibfhearthjvt driving Furnace,where the Litharge  is driven of£
agrees better with the Figure of it in Agricola,  than thofe of
Hungary : Some of the Litharge  is green : Their Buck-ivork  and their
Engines  which pound the Ore,  the Coal,  and Clay,  are alfo very neat.
Much of their Ore  is walhed, efpecially the pooreft, and that which is
tnixed with ftones, quarts, orfparrs.

This is peculiar in their working, that they burn the pounded and
wafhed Ore  in the Roajlhearth,  before they melt it in the Smeltzoven,ev
melting Furnace. ’ '

At thofe Mineš  of Hungary  where I was, they ufed not the Firgula
divina,  or forked Hazel,to find out Silver Ore  or fcidden Treafure in°the
Earth ; and I ihould little depend thereon : but herc they have an e-
fleem of it. And I obferved the ufe thereof, and the manner how they
did it. But I fliall omit the Defcription of it, becaufe it is fet down
in divers Books. and it cannot be fo well defcribed as lhown to the
Eye. •

I faw alfo another Mine,  called Auff der Halflrucker,  about eighty
ofour Fathoms  deep,and much worked : They have divers forts of Ore ■
but they contain either Silver  and Copper, Silver  and Lead,  or ali
three ; but they work them only for Silver.  Thcy have divers damps
in thefe Mineš,  where it is deep. The Mineš  are cold where the out-
ward Air comes in ; but where not, Warm. Thcgreateft trouble they
have is by duft, which fpoils their Lungs  and Stomachs,  and frets their
Skins.  But they are notfo much troubled with water ; and have ve-
ry good Engines  to draw the water out.

The Sulphur  or Brimflone Ore  which is fbund here, is alfo rich; it is
hard and fb'ny, as other Ores  are; that which hath red fpets  is ac-
counted the beft. They ufe a peculiar Furnace  to melt the Brimflone
from the Ore ;  f< me vvhereof yields three pounds of Sulphur,  out of an
hundred weight of Ore,  which as it melts,runs out of the Furnace  into
water, or the Exhalations from the Ore  near or in the Fire, are con-
denfed into Brimflone  by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it;
this isonce again melted and purified. Some of the Brimflone Ore
contains Silver ,  fome Copper,  and fome both in a fmall proporti-

on.

After the Sulphur  is melted from the Ore,  the remaindcr ferves for
two ufes; that is, either for the melting of Silver,  or for the ma¬
king of Fitriol : To the former only thus; A proportion is caft into
the melting Furnace  of the Silver,  to this end, to ufe the Miner s  ex-
preflion to make the Silver  which is hard,fluid.

The other ufe, and which is more coofiderable, is for the making of
Fitriol,  or Copperofe  in this manner : They take the Ore,  out of which
the Brimflone  hath been already melted, and burn it once again, or
let it flill burn in the open Air ; then putting it into a large Fatt,they
pour water upon it, fo as to imbibe and drink in the Fitriol ; this Wa-
ter is aftervvards boyled to a fufficient height, and let out into the
Coolers, where fticks are fet in it, as in the making of Sugar Candy ;
The pureft Cryftallized Fitriol  fticks unto the wood, the reft to the
fides

Two

f’ 1 P- 0

p m a


retort Juca as are vfed at
the cjuickfdver ivorke atldna.

.MineJV trt their habito

A  Journey  from  Vienna  to  Hamburg.

i/i

fides and bottom. Thus the.Sulpbur Or e,  after the Sulphur  is taken out
of it, Rili vvorks upon the Silver Ore,  and opens the Body of it in the
Fire; but when this Ore  is alfo deprived of its Eitriol,  it vvorks no
more upon Metals.

Frilerg,  is a round vveH-vvalled City j hath handfom Strects, a Piaz-
za,  the Eledor’s Caflle, and five Gatcs. The Church of St. Peter  is
fair, vvhere many of the Dukes and Ducal Fami!y h^ve been Buried,and
have fair Monuments; efpeciallv Duke Mauritius  Elečtor of Saxony,
whofe Monument in hlačk Marlle  is raifed threč piles high, adorned
with many fair Statva^  in Alaha (ter  and white Marlle , and efteemed
one of the nobleft, if not the beft, in Germahy.  And vvhen this
Tovvn was furrendered unto Holck  and Gallas, Ctftob. 5. i6^z.  the
Duke of Saxcny  paid 80000 Dollar-s  to fave the Monuments of hls
Predeceflburs frpm being ranfacked and defaced, it Being the fafhion
of divers German  Princes to be buried in their 7?p'/«,with their Enfigns
of Honour, Rings. Jewel$,zr\d  the like, vvhich vvoiild havebečn booty,
and probably have run the farne fortune as the Cloijht tf Ma'ilton,\vith-
in t wclve Englifb  miles of Nurenlerg  vvhere fome of the Marquifles of
Onfpach,  who are of the Elcdoral Houfe of Brtydenfyarg,  lie entomb-
ed, vvhere Tilly s Souldi^rs brake ope-n the Vatdf,  and robbed the dead
Corpfes  of the Marquiflčs, George Frederick,  and Jdachim Ernbjl,  of.the
Jewels, Rings  and other rich Ornament s  vvith vvhich they were entom-
bed.

There are fome Vaults and Subtcrraneous Cavines in the City, by
which there are paflages into the Mineš.  THis plače wasformcrly
ftreightly befieged by the Emperor 'Adoljhus\  for the fpace of a year
and »a month, and at laft betrayed by a FugitiVe,  who let in a
party of the Emperors into the Tovvn by'a Subtcrraneous Paflage near
St. Donats  Gate, and upon the contirruaTBatteries rnade at the TovVn,
a id concuflion of the Earth about it,’the ‘ Earth funk dovvn fn mahy
places,and (vvallovved great numbers of the Emperors Army.

Thefe Mineš  afford great benefit urtftPthe City, and alfo unt.o the
Elečtor; They are faid to have been fdund out in the year 1180. But
there have been other Silver Mineš  difcovercd finbe; as at Sclsneeberg,  5

at Annelerg and Jat J-oackžms Dale, 1

Having pafifing fome time at /^rž^rgjordered my Journey for Leip-
Jick,  and travelling by Waltbeim  and Coldick,  came unto it.

Leipfick  is feated upon the River ElPler,  vvhich arifing in Vojtland, Le, ^ ,c ^
or Terra Advocatorum,  padeš by it, and aftervvards runs into the River
Sala.  It is a rich and great trading City ; hath three Marts  in the
year, and great refort unto it from many parts r it is well built, and
divers Eloufes  are feven ftories high. The Ca§ile\s  ftričbly guarded,
and hath in it a ftrong white Tower. But the Works about the
Town are not very confiderable, although they might be made
llrong.

The Church of St.Nichclas  is well adorned,and hath the name to be
the faireft vvithin fide ofany Lutberan  Church in Germanj;  they have
alfo a remarkable Rurial-plače  or Godtfaker,  vvalled about, and cloy-
Rered near the Wall ?  vvherein the better fort are buried, as the reft
in themiddle and open part. VVhich put me in mind of that noble
Burial-place,vj\\ich  I faw at Pifa  in TuTcany,  called II campo Santo,  be-
caufe the Earth vvhich the Emperor Frederick Barbaroma  brought
Z z fronj

172 A }curney from  Vienna to  Hamburg.

froin the Holy Land,  for the Ballaft of his Ships, was laid upon that
Ground.

Leipfick  is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it, in the
laft S vedi [h  wars ; one between Gujlavus Adolphus,  King of Siveden,
and Count 7z/Zy,General of the Imperialijls,  1631. wherein the Sivedes
obtained a great Vidory. Tilly  was vvounded, fled and lived not long
after. Another fome years after in the farne plače, vvherein Leonard
Tor/lenfon the Švede, overcame  Arch-duke Leopoldus Gtdielmus,  and
Ociazio Piccolomini,  Generals of the Imperial Army.  And about a
mile and a half from hence,at Lutzen, another great Battel was fought,
i6^Z’  between the King of Sveden  and the Imperial Army,  command-
ed by Albert Wallenfleyn  Duke' of Friedlani,  u herein the Svedes  ob¬
tained the Vičtory, but the King of Sveden  was flain; and on the Im¬
perial  fide that famous Commander, Godfrey  Count of Pappenheim.

There is alfo an Vniverfitp  ar Leipfick,  firft occafioned by the Ger¬
man  Scholars of Pralne,  who in the troubles of the Hujfites  came hi-
ther, to the number of Two thoufand in one day ; and is ftill one of
the Ihree Vnruerfities  in the Elečtors Dominions; the other being Je¬
na  by the River Sala,  and. VPittenberg  upon the Elbe.  In this Z/niver-
fity  they are much addičted to the ftudy of the Lav,  but there are alfo
Learned men in other Faculties.

The Magiftrates of Leipfick  are alfo confiderable. Der herr von Ad¬
ler fielme  was the Burgomafier,  a courteous Learned Perfon, and great
Fzrr«^,-whohad cpllečted and obfcrved many things: He hath had
\ five fair Daughters brought up in ali commendable ways of working,
Draiving, Painting, Inlaying  With AWrf,with Mother  of Pearl, S toneš,
and other pretty Works.  And they fpake divers Languages,  which
they learned at a School in .JFolland-.  So that his houfe harh a great
deal of e^cellent Furniture ofhis Childrens work,and is one of the moft
confiderable Curiofities to be fcen in Leipfick.  His Summer-houfe  is
handfom, painted both vvithin and without: And in the Water about,
are Mufcovy Ducks, Indian Geefie,  and divers rare Foivls.  In his Cham-
ler cd Rareties  there are many things confiderable : But having feen
divers of them in other places, and lately fet down fome Varieties  of
the Elečlor of Saxony,  I ihall mention but a few.

An Elephands Head  with the dentes molares  in it. An Animal  like
» an Armadillo,  but the Scales are much larger, and the Tail broader.

Very large flydg Fljbes.  A Seadjorfe. Bread  of Mount Lilanus.  A
Cedar-branch  with the Fr uit  upon it. Large Granates  as they grow in
the Mine.  A Sirens hand.  A Chameleon.  A piece of Zro«,which feems
to be the head  of a Spear,  found in the Tootb  of an Elephant,  the Tooth
being grown about it. The Ifle  of Jerjey  drawn by our King Charles
the Second. A piece of VFood  with the Blood  of King Charles  the Firft
upon it. A Greenland Lance  with a large Bell  at the end of it. Much
Japan  painting, vvherein their manner of hunting  and vorking  may be
obfcrved. A Pifture  ofour Saviour,the Hatches  of which are vvriting,
or vvritten, and contain the Ftory  of his Pajfivn. Bevers  taken in the
River Elbe. A Pilture  of the murther of  the Innocents,  done by Albert
Durer. Pittures  of divers ftrange Fovls.  A Greenland Boat.  The
Skins of white, Bears, Tigres, Wolves,  and other Beoflt.  And I muft:
not omit the Garter  of an Englijh Bride,  with the ftory of it; of the
Fafhipn in England  for the Bridemen to take it ofT, and vv-ear it in their

" Hat >

A Joicrne) from  Vienna to  Hamburg. T

Hat, whtch feemed fb ftrange to the Gerir.ans,  that I was obhgtd to
confirm it to them, by alfuring them that I had divers tiihes w ore fučll a
Garter  my felf.

Leaving this bufy and trading City of Leipfick,  i direded m£ Jour*
ney unto Magdeburg,  and travelled through a plain Country, betvveen
the River Sala  and the Elbe,  by Landfbet‘£,  nigh to Peterfdorff  vvhcre
there is a fmall Hill vvhich overlooks ali the Country,rtext to 7iWA^ 5 the
Refidence of the Prince of Anhalt,  then to Caln,  and overthe River Sa-
7?,before it runs into the £//<?, vvhich arifing at Mount Ficbtelberg,r\ow
haftens tovvards it. Fichtelberg  is a confiderable Mountai g near vvhich
are divers Mineš, Baths,  and Mineralov at er s,  of vvhičh Gafpar B ujcbi-
us  hath vvritten a Defcription.And from it arife four Rivers,running to
the four quarters of the World. The Maine  or Matnus,  tovvards the
Weft ; the Nab  or tSabus,  tovvards the South ; the sEger  tovvards the
Eafl; and the forementioned Sala  tovvards the North. Thefe four af-
terwards fall into the three greateft Rivers of Getmanp,  the Danube,  the
Rbine,  and the Elbe.  Then to Sals  or Saltz, &  plače noted for ialt-
fprings, and that night to Magdeburg.

Parthenopolis,  or Magdeburg,  is feated by the River Elle s  forfflerly Magdchrt.
the Metropolitan City of German),  novv under the Marquifs of Bran¬
denburg,  of very great Circuit, but little more than half biiilt again,
fince it was facked and burnt by Tilly,  and Thirty fix  thoufand perfons
put to theSvvord and deftroyed. I could not but obferve the ruinous
and deftručtive efJečts of  the Jate vvars in many parts of Germany,  but
not in any fo great and flouriihing a plače as this : And a man might
think, that after this great deflrudion of Houfes and People, this
plače Ihould not be ablc to iland a Siege ,• yet a fcw years afterjt vvas
befieged by General Hatzfield,  unto vvhom (Banmer  the Sivede  not
being able to relieve it} it vvas yielded. The Cathedral Church  is ve-
ry fair, and built like ari Enghjb  one, by the Emperor Gtho  the Firft,
and his Emprefs Editha,  an Englijb  Woman. Daughter unto King Ed-
mund,  vvhofe Effigtes  in Stone I favv in the Church, vvith nineteert Tuns
of Gold\ay  her, vvhich ihegave thereto. And to fay the truth, Eng-
lifb  money hath done great things in Germany, for  hereby, or vvith a
good part thereof, this Church vvas built or endovved. Leopoldus,
Duke of Auftria,  built the okl Walls  of Vienna  vvith the ranfom of
King Richard  the Firft, vvhom he detained in his return through Au¬
ftria  from the Holy Land.  King Edward  the Firfl: fent a great Sum
of Money unto the Emperor Adolphusjor  the raifing of Souldiers in
Germany,  vvhich the Emperor employed in purchafmg a great part of
Mifnia  for himfelf.

The Lutheran  Churches are handfom, and their Pulpits are extra^
ordinary noble, and richly fet off as I obferved, through ali Saxonyi
Norimberg,  and vvhere they are Mafters of the Places, and have not
their Churches only by permiHion; here they Ihcvved me in the Ca j
the d ral Church  of St. Maurice,  the S tat ud’s  of the Jide wije Virgins  fmil-
ing, and of the five foolijh Virgins  lamenting, vvhich are very vvell ex-
prefled : They lhewed me allb two odd Reliques, vvhich they ftill
kept as Rareties ;  that is, the Bafon  vvherein Pilate  vvalhed his hands,-
vvhen he declared himfelf free from the Blood of our Saviour;  and
the Ladder  vvhereon the Cock  ftood vvlien he crovved after St. Peter s
denying of Chrift.

_ A Journey from  V icnna to  Hamburg.

_ In the Butneš  of the Cloifter  of the Auguflines-,  there is ftill to be
feen Luther s Chamber  his Bedfiea^  and Table,  and upon the Door
are thele German  Verfes.

D is ivar  Lutheri Kamrnerlin,
Wan er in s Clofter kam herin;
Gedachnis halb ivird noch itzund
Herin gejehen fein Bettefpund.

i. e.

Luther  did lodge vvitbin this little Room,
When firft he did into the Cloifter come’;

In memory whereof we ftill do kcep
The Bedilead within which he us’d to fleep.

Ilodged at Magdeburg,  in an old man’s Houfe, who would teli me
many ftories of the burmng  of the Toivn,  the cruelties  and bloody ufage
of the people,  who were deftroved jvithout exception : The Nuns,  ma-
ny of them being drovvned in the River Elbe.  After which fome ob-
fervcd that Count Tilly  never profpered in his Wars. He told me al¬
fo that Dureus  lodged with him, who was employed by King Charles
the Firft, to endeavour a reconciliation betu cen the Lutherans  and
Calvini/ls  in Germany,  and to unite them if pofiible. We vvere now
in the Territory of tbe Elcčtor of Brandenburg. Fridericus Wilbelmiu,
Great Chamberlain of the Empire, uho is in eflečt poflefTed of Mag¬
deburg,  and next unto the Auftrian Eamily,  is the moft potent Prince
in German},  being able to raifc grčat Armies,  and his Dominions Ib
large, that they are reckoned to extend tu o hundred German  miles in
length, from the further part of Prufia  unto Cleve,  but they lay not
together, but interfperied with many other Princes Countries : How-
foever, a Horfe-man may fo order his Journey, a^ to lie every night in
one of the Elcčtors Towns, in travelling from one end of his Tcrrito-
ries to another.

I had now left the pure German Language  bchind me, for at Magde¬
burg  comes in another kind of German,  called Plat-Peutch, Broad-
Dutch, Niderjachftfche,  or the La gu a ge of lower Saxony ;  a great I^an-
guage,  fpoken in the North part of German} :  They ipeak it at Pdarn-
burg, Lantzick, 1 ubeck. and many  great Cities: But they can con-
vcrfe with the other Higb-dutcb,  and with fome difficulty alfo with
the Netherldnders ;  the one fpeaking in his Language,  and the other
replying in his.

At this Cityof Magdeburg  was performed the-firft Turnament  that
was in Germanf  uhich was opened in the ye r 6^.  by the Emperor
He»ry,  Surnam-d ihe Eouler,  u ho coming from the War of Hungary,
exceedingly fatisbed with the NoliHty,  would obiige them to exercife
themfelves in handling their Arms,  and managi g their Horfes,  and
thcrefore inftituted thele Šport s,  whcreby the Noliliiy  was powerfully
attračfed to 1'alvur  and Gallantry,  and iijduced to perfečt and accom-
plifh themfelves in ali kind of Chevalry.  No new Fob 'dity,  no Bajlard,
no Tjurper,  none guilty of Higb Treajon,  no Oppref lr  of IPidoivs  and
Orphans,  none born of ents  vvhereor one was of' bafe Extrablion  and

Pgnoble,

A Journey from  Vienna to  Hamburg.

Ignoble,  no Heretike,'Murderer, Traytor,  no Coivard  that had run a-
way froni the Battel,  nor indifcreet perfon  that had given offence  to
Lada S  by voord  or deed,  were admitted to this Honour,  nor above Qne
of the lame Family  at a time. Princes  came into the Lisi s  with four
Squries  a piece, Counts  and Barens  witH three,  a Knight  with two,  and a
Gentleman  with one.

The hour and plače for the Tur namen',  being appointed, he that
had a defire to break a Lance  there, came to the Prefident's Lodgings
to have his Name  written down, which was done in the prefence of
three Heralds,  to whom the Champion  delivered his Helmet  and
Sword,  and after he had been at confeffion, prefented himfelf in the
Lifts  with one or more Squires,  according to his quality. The Hor-
fes  of the Combatants  were to be without fault or exception; the Ca-
parijons  and Fumiture  fuch as gave no offence ; their Saddles  without
any extraordinary rifingbefore and behind, and ali thingsequal. Af¬
ter which they performed allkind of Exercifes  oh Horje back  : and
after the Joufts  were en ded, every man repaired to the Prefident  of
his Nation,  to wait for the Sentence  of the Judg^s ;  and he that beft
deferved the Frize.,  received it either from the hand of fome Lady,  or
from the Prince  that gave it.

Thefe Paftimes  were afterwards difufed, upon the Emulation it cau-
fed between the Princes  and Nobility,  who ftrove to outvy one ano-
ther; or upon wars, in which there was no leifure for fuch Exercifes-
or perhaps upon confideration that divers brave men  loft their lipe s  in
thefe Encounters-.  and no lefs a Prince  than Henry  the Second,King of
France,  negiečting to wear his Beaper  down, was flain in a Eurnament.
And ztDarmftadt  alfo, in the ycar 1403. at the Three and twentieth
Furnament  which was held in Germany,  the Gentlemen of Francoma
and thofeof Heffe,  drew fo much blood upon one another, that there
remained dead upon the plače feventeen of the former,and nine of the
latter.

The Winter  grovving on called me to make hafte to Hamburg,  from
whence I intended to pafs by Sea into England,  and therefore-I took
the advantage of the Stage-Coaches  at Magdeburg,  and in four days
came to Hamburg.  I travelled through a Country for the moft part
barren, of little accommodation, or fcarce any thing very remarkable,
through part of the Elečtor of Brandenburg,  and then through, thb
Duke of Lunenburgs  Country, paffing by the City (A Lunenburg,z  hand-
fom wal!ed City, beautified with divers fair Cburches,  with high Spires.
The Church  of St. Lambert,  the Toivn-houfe,  and the Duhe’s Palače,  are
fair. Here are falt-fprings  in the Tw>n,  very beneficial to the plače,
and fupplying the neighbour Countries.  The Town  is commanded by
a Hill  near to it, called Kalkberg,  vvhich lies on the North-fide.

In this Road through lower Saxony,  I could not but take notice of
many Barroivs  or Mo um s  of Earth,  the burial Monuments  of great and
famous Men,  to be often obferved alfo in open Countries in Eng¬
land,  and fometimes rows of great S tone s,  like thofe in iVormiiu  his Da-
nijh Antiquities : And in one plače I took more particular notice of
them, where three mafly S toneš  in the middle, were encompaded in a
large fquare by Other large Stone s  fet up on end.

Hamburg  is a fair City,  and one of the grčat ones in Germany ;  it is
feated in a Flain,  being populous, rich and remarkably flrong: It is
fortified

A  ]ourney  from  Vienna  to  Hamburg.


fortified according to the modern manner, much after the way of
Holland,  with nor k s  of earth,  but in no plače yet covered or faced with
brick  or fione  : The Territory  belonging to it is but fmall; it is divi-
ded into the new  and the old Tomi.  There are five Gates  : The S fone
gate,  leading towards Lubeck;  the Dome-gate ;  the Alten-gate,  or
which leads unto Altenaw,  a plače near the Torni,  belonging to the
King of Denmark,  where the Romanifts  and Calvimsis  have their
Churches the Bridge-gate  ; ^nd the Dike-gate.  The Buildings  of this
City are handfom, and commonly have a fair entrance into
them. The Senate-houfe  is noble, adorned with carved Statuas  of the
Nine Worthies.  The Exchange  or plače of meeting for IhlerchantspNos
then enlarging, it being too fmall to receive thofe Numbers  which fre-
guented it. Many of their Churches  are very fair, with high Steeples,
covered with Copper.  The Front of St. Katherines  is beautiful. The
Steeple  of St. Nicholas  is fupported vvith great gilded Globes.  The o-
ther great Churches,  are the Dome-Church,  St. Peters,  St. Jacob,  the
greater and lefs, St. Michael,  the Neiv-Church,  in the Neiv toivn.  The
lefier Churches,  are St. Ge rt rude,  St. Mary Magdalen,  ar d the Hc-
ly Ghofl.  They have a Sermon  every day, as in other Lutheran  Ci-
ties.

The River Alsier  runs through it into the Elbe,  and turns many
Mills : and the Tide  comes up into divers Streets through Channels,
although it be dillant eighteen German  miles from the Sea,  or Mouth
of the Elbe.  This plače abounds with fhipping, and many of gocd
Burden, and is well feated for Trade,  as having an open paffage  into
the Ocean, and being but a day s Journey from Lubeck  on the Baltick Sea,
and being feated upon the long River Elbe,  the third great River of
Germanj,  whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that
Country, and as far as Bohemia.

Hamburg  is full of Strangers  and Merchants  of feveral, Countries.
The Englijh Company  have good P rivilege s  and a rich Trade, and Ships
come laden thither with Cloth  to the value of an hundred thoufand
pounds flerling;  and they live here in good Reputation,and to the ho-
nour of their Country : they are Perfons  of worth,courtejie,a.r\d ci-uility;
and I heartily wifh them ali fuccefs in their Affairs.  I mufi not o-
mit the acknovvledgment of my particular Obligation to that learned
and worthy Perfon,  Mr. Griffiri,  Preacher uhto the Company, Mr. Free,
the Treafurer, Mr. Banks,  who hath been in many places of Natolda,
and the Moly Land,  Mr. jenkinfon,  and my very obliging Friends Mr.
Catelin  and Mr. Townly.

This plače hath the happinefs to be quiet when the great Princes of
Europe  are at war; for it defires to hold a ftričt Amity  with Princes,
and declines ali DiJJention  with them.

I found a Ship at Hamburg  bound for London,  and while it Was fit-
ting for Sail, I made a fhort excurfion  into part of the King of Den-
marks  Country; and returning to Hamburg  again, I ordered my af¬
fairs for England  upon the firlt wind, and hoped the next Tide  to get
over the Altenamfand,  and to pafs the Blancknejs,  but a crofs vvind
prevented, fo that I left not Hamburg  till the tenth of December,  and
then I had the good company of Mr. Hoyle,  who came from Narva,
and fet Sail in a. new Ship; but the days being at the Ihorteft, and
the nights dark in the Neiv-Moon,  the Tide  failing alfo in the day time,

A Journey from  Vienna to  Hamburg. I 77

we were able to get no further the firft day thanSta?/-, or Stoade,  upon Sta &’
the River Zivingh,^  ftrong belonging to the King of Siveden,  where

the Ships that come up the River«pay Cuftom,and vvhere thzEngl/fb  Mer-
chants had formetly their Refidence,  when they left Hamburg  upon a
Difcontent. .

December  the i i th.  we came by Gluckfadfi,  belonging to the King o f
Denmark,  where the Cafile,  the Kings Palače,  and the Charch  are
handfom, and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River Oa/l,
which arifes in Bremerland,  and falls into the Elbe  a mile from Brunf-
buttel,  on the other Holfatian  flioar.

'December  the nth.  \ve loft fightof theNorthernfhoar,andpaflčd
CooEs Haven,  in full hopes to put out to Sea that night; but about
Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below
it,where we were forced to come to an Anchor again,left the ftrong Eb-
le  ftiould fet us on ground among the Sands : we lay that night
betvveen Fhickfand  on the North, and Netiark  on the South, right over
againft a Light-boufe.

December  the 13//?. the wind turning Wefterly, and blowing hara,
we returned to Cook’s Haten,  and came to Anchor. Here I came a-
fhoar, and went up the Land to the Fort in this plače belonging to the
City of Hamburg:  It is a high fguare tVblk, with a double Ditch,and
and fome Pefiels  come up to the Fort; but the Ditcbor channel  vvhich
comes thither out of the Elbe,  is dry at low vvater. The town  is cal-
4ed Reutfbu.ttel,v\Gt  far from the Lands end. Two or three days after,
with a cold North-Eaft-wirid, we fet fail for England.  Corning out of
the Elbe,  we were ali the Afternoon in fight of an Illand, called Hei-
lige-landt,  or Holj-land,  belonging to the Duke of Holfiein,  which
being very high Land, is to be feen at a good diftance, and is ofexcel-
lent ufe to direčl and guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe,  with-
6ut which they would be at a great lofs, the Country about that Ri-
vers Mouth being ali very low Land.

Heiligeland  is a fmall Ifland,  having about two thoufand Inhabi-
tants,  and fix or feven fmall Deficit  belonging to it, which are imploy-
ed a great part of the year in bringing Lobfiers  and other Fifih to Lon¬
don  or Ouinborpugfi,  the Inbabitants  living moft upon Fifih.  VVe bore
out to Sea ali night, and the next day made towardsthe Land again,
and failed in fight of Scbiemonieheoghe, Amelandt,  and Schelling :  in
the Evening we faw the Lights at the l 7 ly  and Texel*,  when we were
near the Land, we were much troubled with the Froft and Cold Wea-
ther,and lefs \vhen we vvereofFat Sea.The next day we had a fair wind,
and made fuch way,that in the Evening we took dowri our Sails, and
let the Eefifiel  drive, not being willing to deal with the fhoar in the
night. The next morning we fbon difcovered the Nortbforeland covered
with Snow ; and came to an Anchor in AfargareARoad, vvhere the wind
grovring very high, we rode it out for tvvo days and two nights,and
Came fafe on fhoar (praifed be God) upon Cbriflmas-daj  morning.

Novv having made fo long a walk in Germanj,  I muli confefs I re-
turned with a better opinion of the Country, than I had before of it ;
and cannot but think it very confiderable in many things. The Ri-
vers thereof are noble, and feem to exceed thofe of France  and Italj.
Of the Rivers of Italj,  the Padus  or Po,  is the moft confiderable,which-
f]ofwithflanding, bath no very long courfe, before it runs into the

A a Adriatick

178 A Joumey from  Vicnna to  Hamburg,

Adriatick Sea.  And Ita!y  being divided by the Appennine-kills,  run-
ing from Weft to Eaft, the Rivers which arife from either fide, cannot
be long, neither on the South-fide, before they run into the Mediter-
ranean,  as the Arno, Garigliano,  and others : Nor on the North fide,
before they run into the Adriatick^  or the Po.

The chief Rivers of France,  as the Loyre,  the Seine,  the A/^e,and
the Garonne,  I cannot but highly commend, having pafled upon them
for divers days. There are alfo four great Rivers in Germanj ■  the
Danube,  the Rhine,  the Elbe,  and the Oder,  but none of France  feem
čomparable unto the Rhine  and Danube. France  having the Sea upon
the North, the Weft, and the two large Provinces of Languedoc,  and
province  upon the Mediterranean Sea,  hath the opportunity of Noble
Cities and Seaports: But fome doubt may be made, VVhether any
thereof do exceed Hamburg, Luleck,  and Dantzick.

The great number of populous, large, and handfome Cities, doth
affbrd gfeat content unto a Trave H er  in Germanj;  for befides about
Sixty fix free Imperial Cities, there are many more of goed note be-
longing to particular Princes, and divers highly priviledged. And fure-
ly a true Eftimation of the Cities and Tovvns of thefe days, cannot be
duly made from the Accounts and Defcriptions thereof left an hundred
years fince or more, for fince thofe times, Buildings have been better
modelled and ordered ; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly
contrived; Convents and Publick Houfes more neatly and commodi-
oufly built; and the fair Colleges and Churches of the Jefuites,\vhich
are now to be feen ifi moft, do much fet off the Beauty of great Places.
Every where we meet with great and populous TounsVillages,Cdftles,
Sr at s  of the Nobilitj, Plains, Forefis,  and pleafant tfbods.  And be¬
fides the fatisfačtion'we may have from Obječh above ground, we
may find no fmall content in the vvonders thereof under it,in Mine^Mi-
ilerals^^G^\\{Q^,^Gold,Silver,Copper,Iron,Tinn,Lead,Qjyickfilver,
Antiinony 1  Coal,Salt,Su!phur, Cadmia,  and others, where there are alfo
fingular Artificers  and Workmen,  in the feveral Artifices thereof. Con-
verfation with the People is eafie, they behaving themfelves vvithout
much Formality, and are plain dealing and trufty, fo tkat a Traveller
needs not to be fo follicitous and heedful of what he hath, as in fome
other Countries, vvhičh are efteemed of greater Civility. The Wometr
are generally well-complexioned, fober, and grave, and they have not
yet learned the cuftom of their Neighbours of France  and Holland,  to
admit of being falutčd by Men : faithful to their Husbands, and careful
in the affairs of their Houfes.

They make good provifion againft the cold of their Country, by
flcepingbetween two Feather-beds and Stoves.

The common Stoves  ih Inns,  tvherein there are for the moft part
feveral Companies eating, drinking, and in the night fleeping, are con-
venient, confidering the great cold, or at leaft tolerable ; but they be¬
ing rooms clofe fliut up, the fmell of the meat, and efpecially of Cab-
lape,  an ufual Dilh amongft them, makes them unpleafant, fo that
fometimes I preferred the courfe ofhot Countries, white I called to
mind,that in P tov incesti Italy  we drank frozen 'julebs,  which we
diflblved with the heat ot our hands; flept upon a Ihcet, on the outiide
of the Bed, with ali the Windows of the Chamber open ; and as we
feteat dinner, there was a Fann in the middle of the Room, hanging.

over

A Journef  from  Vicnha  to  Hamburg.

over our Heads, about two yards broad, which with a llring vvaspull-
ed backward and forvvard.to cool us, and divers had Pans filled vvith
Snow, to cool the Iheets wheh they went into their Beds.

Germany  is a great Hive  of men, and the jrtjighty deflručtion of meri
made by the laft German  wars, and by the PlagUe is fo repaired, that it
is fcarce difcernible. They are fruitful, and full of Childrcn : They
are not exhaufled by Sea,  Colonies fent forth, or by peopling American
Countries • but they have fome confumption by wars abroad, when
they be at peace at home : fetV wšfs beirig made in other parts of Eu~
rope,  wherein there are not fome Regiments of Germans ; the People
being haturally Martial, and perfons well defcended, very averfe from a
Trading courfe of Life.

Whi!e I read in tacitus  of the old barbarous and rude State of Ger¬
mans,  how poorly they lived, that they had their Houfes at a diftance
from one another; how ignorant they were in Arts ; and it waš
doubted whether their Gountry aflbrded Mineš;  that tliey lived by ex-
change of things, makirig little or no ufe of mdney, and the like, I may
juftly Wonder to behold the prefent advance and improvement in ali
commendable Arts, Learning, Civility, fplendid and handfome Cities
and Habitations, and the general face of things incredibly alteredfince
thofe ancient times; and cannot but SpproVe the expreflion of a
Learned Man, though long fihce, That if  Arioviftus, Civilis, and thofe
old famous men of  Germany, Jhotdd revive in their Countrp again, and
look up to Heaven, beholding the Conftellations of the Bear s, and other
Starš, they rnight prolally acknoivledge that theje were the farne Starš
vbhich they iver e ivont to lehold; but if they fhould look dovonvoard, and
iv e U view the face of ali t hings, they would imagine themfelves to le in.
a neiv World, and mater acknoivledge this to have le en their Country.

iSo

JhIms,,

n £S*pUringthe Treaty ofPeaceat Colen  in the year 167?.

between the United States  of the Netherlands,  the •
Sre King of Great Britain,  and the French  King; many
O JF Gentlemen having accompanied their Excel-

Iencies,the Lords Ambafladors and Plenipotentiaries in
!P||| their Journey, had a defire alfo to View fome of the

Neighbouring Territories,and to divertife themfelves
during the heat of the Summer^t  the Spaa, the Baths  of ^^w,and other
places. Having therefore, in order to our Journey, obtained a Pafport
for our Safety from Count Blondel,  one of the Spanifb Plenipotentia¬
ries,  and from their Excellencies  Sir Jofeph Williamfon,  and Sir Leoline
Jenkins,  we left Cole n  on Monday  the Fourth of jWy,and upon the Road
overtook my Lord of Peterlorow$,  who had been at Dufleldorp  at the
Duke of Newlt.tr f s  Court,and went aftenvards into Italj  to Modena,
and brought over the prefent Queen of England.  We dined at a fmall
walled Town  called Berckem,  which fome think to be a name cor-
rupted from Tiberiacum,  where we llayed a great part of the Afrernoon,
to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened: A Seru ant  of
one of the Enplifb Gentlemen  having cafually ihot a Horfe,  which be-
•longed to a Commander  under the Duke of Netvburg,  lying at that time
with a party of Horfe  at this fown,  fo that we travelled in the Even-
ing through the Woods,  and came late to a plače called Steinftrajfe,  and
the next day morning we went to Juliers.

Gulick,  or Juliers,  is a fmall Town  by the River Roer,  but very arci-
ent, and called by the Romans, Juliacum,  conceived to have been foun-
ded by Julius C ref ar ; the Seat  fometimes of the Dukes of Gulick,  be-
fore the uniting hereof with Cleue ;  and fince the diflblution of that
Eftate, poilefled by the United Province? ;  and then again by the Spa-
niards ;

A Journey from  Colen in  Gcrmany to  London, j 8 i
niards;  but at prefent is in the hands of the Duke of Neivburgc.  It be-
ing agreed at the conclufion of Peace  between the Spaniards  and the
Hollanders,  That the Marquefs of Brandenburg  ihould have Marek  and
C lev e,  and the Duke of Netvburg, Gulick  and Berg.  This is a hand-
fome well fortified Town,  the Street s  ftreight, and the Houfes  of Bric k.
The Cittadel  confifts of four Bafiions,  of a regular Fortification;  with-
in which is the Princes Palače.  The Piazza  in the Foton  is handfome;
and the whole confiderable for its leautj  and ftrength.

July  the $th.  we came to Aken,  or Aquifgranum,  five Leagues diftant
from Gulick;  the French  call it Aix la Chapelle,  from a Chappel  in the A ^ K '
great Church,  much vifited by Pilgrims  from many parts; and famous
for the great number of Reliptes  preferved therein. When the Roman s
rriade War upori the Germans,  they poflefled themfelves of divers places
betvveen the Rhine  and Maes.  And Grantu,  a noble Roman,  being fent
into thefe parts of Gallia Belgica,  about the year of our Lord Fifty
three, difcovered among the iVoods  and Hills  thefe hot Springs,  which
to this day are highly celebrated in many parts of Europe;  who after-
wards made ufe of theirij and adorned them after the manner of the
Roman Baths,  and built a noble Habitation  near them; part of which
the Inhabitants  would have ftill to be ftanding, retaining the name of
Turris Grant,  an old Tower  at the Eaft-end of the Toivn-houfe;  a noble
Antiquity : But the manner of its building  gives fufpicion it cannot be
fo old. Hence thefe Thermte  from their Difcdverer have been named
Aquce Granite,  and came to be frequented ; and the Foton  of Aquifgrane
built and flouriihed, till Attila,  the King of the Plans,  or Hangartans,
deftroyed it

About four hundred years after, Charles  the great riding out a hunt-
ing  in thefe parts,as he pafled through the W0ods,h\$  Horfes Foot ftrook
into one of thefe Hot~fprings,  near which he alfo took notice of the
Ruines  of ancient Palaces  and Bv.il dings  long before forfaken ; and be¬
ing ftill more and more delighted with the pleafarit Situation of the
plače, and conveniency of thefe hot Rivolets,  he renetved and adorned
the Baths,  built his Ropal Palače  near them : and appointed that the
King of the Romans  ihould be crowned with an IronCrown  here as with
a Stlver  one at Milan,  and a Gold  one at Rome.  He alfo built a noble
Collegiate Church,  dedicated toPazbleffed Virgin,  iri the prefence of
many Princes  and Bifhops,  in the year 804, and endovved it with Re~
venues  for the maintainance of ‘ Canons,  who lived together in a College
at firft, but at prefent feparately in the manner of Prebends.  He built
alfo the old  or imvard Wall  of the C’tj, fo  that it flouriihed till the
year 881. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Nor-
mam,  and the Emperors Palače  burnt to the ground. This Czfy,befides
thefe Devaftations from the Irruptioris of the Hv.ns  and Normam,  hath
been divers times fince deftroyed by Fire ;  as in the year 1146. which
fofejt ovcrcame in fueh manrier, that Twenty fix years after, it reco-
vered not only its former greatnefs, but was fo much increafed,that the
large ouimard VVall  was built by the command of theEmperor Frederick
the Firft.

In the year 1114. happened another great Fire,  in which, not only
the Baildings,  but many of the Inhabitants  perifhed. And the Roof  of
the Church  was burnt in another Fire  1136. And now of late, for it is
hot long fince, it hath recovered its loflesby the Fire  in the year 165$.

• -'• whuj

A  Journey  from  Colen  in  Germany  to  London.

182

when twenty Churches  and Chappels,  and about five thoufand private
Houfes  were dcftroyed.

. The Tomtdcioufe,  or Senate-houfe,  was built 135-3. being ali of Free-
JI one,  handfomly adorned with the Statues  of' the Emperors.  The
frsl  and fecond Story  of this Building  is divided into Chambers  ; but
the higheft is ali one entire Room  or Hall,  161 Foot long, and 6q  Foot
broad. It is well painted  in divers parts by Amifaga,: Two Pieces
of whofe draving  are much efteemed herc; one of the Rejurrettion,  and
another of Charles  the Great, giving the Charter  to the City  of Aken.
Here the Emperors,  at the time of their Coronation,  ufed to keep their
/?^?r,together with the Eleftours &  other Princes.  The Roofis  fuppor-
ted by four Pillars;  through the middle of which, the fmoak  of ali the
Chimneys  of this Building,  is by a handfom contrivance conveyed away.

Over againft this Houfe,  in the middle of the Piazza,  is a Fountain,
confiderable both for largenefs  and neat JI rutture,  contrived by a great
Artift, Gerard Coris : where four Springs  perpetually empty themfelves
from above into a large Bafon  of Copper ,of thirty Foot Diameter;  from
whence again it defcends by fix Pipes  into a Ciftern  of Stone,  hand-
fomly engraved, and paflcs to many other Fountains  in the Town.  On
the top of this Fcuntain  flands a large Status  of Charles  the Great, Pa-
tron  of this City,  made of brafs,  and gilded over. H e is in Armour,  and
looks towards Germany.  About the edges of the great brafs Bafon  is this
Infcription.

Ulč dquis per  Granum Principem quendam  Romanum, Meronis
Agrippx imientis, calidcrum fontium  Thermte, a Principio con-
Jtr uche. Pojlea vero per D.  Carolum Magnum Imp. conjlituto ut locus
hic fit caput  Ča repni fedes trans  Alpes, renotiatte funt, quilus  Thermis
hic gelidus fons injiuxit olim cpuem nune demumhoc ceneo vaje illusiravit
S. P. Cf.  Aquifgranenfis, Anno Domini  1610.

The Church  of our Lady,  built by Charles  the Great, > is of an odd
Figure.  At the Weft-cnd is a Steeple  adorned with divers Pyramids  j
and on the top a large Globe  and Crofs.  From hence, higher much
than the Church,  pafles a Gallery,  fupported by a large Arch,  to a Cupola
near the middle of the Church.  At the-Eaft-end is alfo a fmall Tur ret
or Lanthom..  The infide of the whole is adorned with Marble Pillars
of divers forts, Pillars  of brafs,  gilded with Statues, brafs Doors  and
Partitions,  and much Mofaick  work.

In the middle of the Church,  where Charles  the Great was -buried,
hangs a very large Crown,  given to this Church by the Emperor Fre-
derick  the Firft. This Croivn  is made of fihier  and brafs  gilt, adorned
with fixtecn little Tovoers,  and eight and forty Statues  of filver,  of a-
bout a Foot high, and thirty two which are lefler. Between thefe
ftand eight and forty Candlejlicks  to receive the Lights  burnt here uppn
Feffrvals.

Of thefe large Crowns  1 have feen at Colen,  and other parts; and it
hath bcen an ancient Ornament in Churches.  The Greeks  have a
Crown,  or large Circle  much like this, in the middle of moft of their
beft Churches  on vvhich they hang many Ceširich  Eggs, and the Pi*
ctures  of the Apojlles  and Saints.  The Turks  do likevvile imiate this in
their ld.ofqu.es,  but inftead of Picture s,  plače Lamps.

Fredehck

A Jourhey frotfi  Čelen  ih  Gcrmany  'to  Londori;

Frederick  the Firft took up the Body  of Charles  the Great out of its
Sepulchre  in the middle of the Church,  and aftervvards buried it -again ;
partly in a filver C o fin  under the Alt ar  of the Quire,  and partly°near
the Wall  of the old Building,  covering it with the farne Tdml-ftone,  as
before ; which is here reported to bave been firfl takcn from the Tomi
of Julitts C ref ar.  It is of robite Marlle,  and hath the Figure  of Projer-^ 1 ^'
pina  upon it. Out of this Tomi  of Charles  the Great, were taken up
a great number of/te/^m and confiderable Rareties,  which he had
got together in his life time fome of them given him by Aaron  King
of Perfia,  by the Patriarch  of Conllantinople,  and others; divers of
which are (lili preferved here : and thefe following we had the oppor-
tunity to fee. Some of the blefled Virijns hair.  One ring  or link  of
the Chain  with wbich St. Peter  was chained in Prifon.  The Headcf
Charles  the Great. The lones  of his Ar m.  His Svoord  which the Em-
perors wear at the time of their Coronation.  The Picture  of the Vir¬
gin Mary,  with our Saviour  in her Arms,  embofled upon a Jafpis,  done
by St. Luke,  hanged about the Fleck  of Charles  the Great,and fo found
in his Tomi.  A Noble Manufcript  of the Gofpels  found in the farne Tomi.

Charles  the Great’s Hom  which he ufed when he went ahunting.His Cru-
cifix  made oiit of the wcod  of the Crofs.  Our Saviours Girdle  of Leather,
with the Seal  of Conflantinefhz  Great at each end. A piece of the true
J/z?w/(7.Some ofthe Bones  and Bloo l ofSt. Stephen  richly enchafed,upon
VVhich the Emperors are fworn at their Inauguration.B.  piece of one of the
Nails  of the Crofs.  An Agnus Del  fent from the Pope  to Charles  the Great;
& many other Reliques.  Here is alfo the Tomi  ofthe Emperor Otho  the
Third,in llack Marllep^ho  in the year iooo,firft conftituted the Elečtors
of Germahy. . , .

Near to this City  are many forts of Minerals  found; as Lead-ore,  the J? e ma ™’ nn j
Sulphur,  and VitriolSione, Ir on, Coal,  and Cadmia,  or Lap is Calamina- Erafi, ' nS  °
ris:  With this latter we faw them make Brafs  or multiplv Copper,  in
this mianner. They take calcined Cadmia,  or Calmey,  as they call it,
Copper  from &p?</<?»,and the rhelted drofs of both; to twenty eight pounds
of Copper  they put*an hundred pound <diCalmey:  They put firft into ve-
ry large C r učil le s,(orne  old pieces of Irafšand flacken, r x  the droiš,and af-
terwards the Calmey  and Copper,and let them ftand in the Furnače tvvelve
hours; after which,fhey puteight Ctucilles  full into one, and let what
vvill run over,the beft fmking always to the bottom; and then caft it
into a Frame made offtonč,bordered with barsoflron ; and run it into
brafs Plates/which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Ciffors.

The hot Baths,  are very rtiuch frequented at prefent. VFithin the™f„ B “ hs
inward Walls are thrce čonvenient ones: The Emperors Bath,  the Lit-
tle Bath,  and the Bath  of St. Quirinus.  The Emperors Bath  is in the
farne plače, and fed With the farne Springs with thatih \vhich formerly
Charles  the Great took mtich delight, and frequently ufed to fwim
therein; in vvhich exercife few were more expert than himfelf; and
fpent the latter end of his days here, and wouid often invite to the
Bath,  not only his Sons, but his Nobles, his Friends andGuards; fo as
it was cuftomary to Bath a hundred together in thofe days. But now
they are divided into lefler Partitions. The Emperors Bath  having five

, Bathing Rooms; and the Little Bath  \vhich comesoutof it, three;
Thefe are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureous;  and arife fo hot, that they
let them cool twelve hours before they ufe them. From under a.

great'

A  Journey from  Colen  in  German/ to  London 

great round Stone which covered a Well, in vvhich there were fome of
thefe Hot Springs,  I faw Brimjlo'.e,  hard, above an inch thick, and
Salt-peter,  and a petrefied Subftance finely variegated, taken out.

Befides thefe, near unto the inward Wall of the City,there are Baths
vvhich are not fo hot as the former, efteemed to be Sulphureo-nitrous •
The fmell of them is fome-what offenfive, and the water in the Cifierns
not tranfparent. The firft is the Bath  of St. Comelius,  vvhich hath two
Receptacles. The fecond the Rofe Bath,  fo called from Mr. Rofe,  a
The hot Fm- Citizen oM&?»,who builtit. The third Compus Badt,  or the Poor
tlin. ' nians Bath.  Of this fort of vvarm Water there is alfo a 2^«»r<7Ž»,much
reforted to, and drank of every morning in the Suvnmer  fbr many Chro-
. nical Difeafes.  About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken,  is a

Ior/er. B lt 15  ° f  Village called ? ur četam,  or Borfet,  from the great number of vvild
Hogs,  vvhich formerly frequented that plače ; in vvhich are many Hot
Springs  upon both fides of a little Rpuolet,  and let into HoufesjVthvte
they are diftributed into feveral Baths  of Stene.  There are-fourteen of
thefe Houfes,  and twenty eight Baths;  the Baths  holding ordinarily
about fifty Tuns of Water, each of them : the Water is clear and plea-
fant, vvithout any offenfive fmell; exceffive hot when it comes firft
out of the Ground, hotter than the hotteft of Aken,  and is left to
čool about eighteen hours before they ufe it. They ufe alfo an Inftru-
ment of Wood pierced vvith many holes,to help to cool them fooner,or
to ftir the Water when any one goes in, whereby he is not fo fenfible
of the heat. There are many Cold Springs  rile near thefe hot oncs,
whereby they might be tempered ; and furely the quantity of the hot
Water being fo great, no plače might be made more delightful, nor no
Baths  more Noble. The Turks  in our times, do moli of any Nation
beautifie their Baths,  and render them ferviceable to their Health and
pleafure.

In Auflria  at Baden,  the SaiverBath  is built after the Turki [h  manner,
with a Cupola  over it: and if any one hereafter fhall build or beautify
thefe, they vvill yield to very fevv in Europe.  At prefent moft of them
are of a fquare Figure, of about five or fix yards over; and the Houfes
in vvhich they are, very near one another. The firft Hoiifc hath the
name of the Ladies Bath ; the fec >nd is the Snake  ; the third and
fcurth the Stvord ;  the fifth the Golden Mili;  the fixth the Fool;
the  feventh the Cock;  the eight the Great Bath;  the ninth the Fomn-
tain;  the tenth the Crab ; the eleventh the World Inverted-,  the tvvelfth
the Glafs;  the thirteenth the Angel ; and the fourteenth the Rofe.
There is alfo another in the open Air, called the Roor man s Bath.  In
the Street is a Well  or Fountain  of thefe Hot-fprings,  of as great a heat
as any I have feen ; pcrpctually boyliog or bubling. But of ali thefe
Baths  Dr. Blondeltsx\&  Dr. Didier  have vvritten fo particularly, as I
a  Mine of La-  nee d not to  add any thing more,and particularly of their Ufes.
ju caUmina-  Within two Leagues of Aken,  in the Country of Limbourgjs  a Mine
of Lapis Calaminaris,  vvhich vve went to fee having a Corporal  and.
eight Mufquetiers  for our Security to pafs the Wood.  This Mine  lies
over againft the Caftle of Einenberg.  As foon as I had delivered a
Letter  to Mr. John Franck,  Comptroller of the Mine  for his Catholick
Majefty,  he went along vvith us, to Ihevv us the manner hovv the Cad-
mia  grows in the Earth, and other Curiofities. This Mine  having been
vvrought Three hundred years, and being one of the moft remarkable
of

A  Journey  from  Colen  in  Gcrimnv  to  London. 1

ofthat kind, it may not be impertinent to fet down fome partictilars
concerning it. it is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms  deep,lying ali
open like a Chalk Mine.,  of an Oval Figure ; they digg at prefent in fe- .
veral places, and the beft Calmey  lies betwcen the Rocfajn  the deepeft
part of the Mine  : They have now fbund an excellent V e in  fo placed,
ofeleven or twelve Foot thick, which they digg out with Pick-axes,
with fome difficulty,by reafon that the Lapis Calaminaris  is very bard.
The colour of  this Stone  is of a dark yellow  and red,  and hath Veins  of
natural Brimftone  mixed thinly in it. The Veins.  of the Lapis Cala-
minaris,  being fo large, they follovv them not only in one plače, but
digg over one anothers hea'ds,and frame their work into the fhape of
large Stayrs,  and one throws up what another diggs, and fo upward
till they lade the Carts  with it. Some of the Cadmia  is blackifh and
dark brown ; and there are Fluor es  between the Cavities of the Stone
handfom!y iigured, but moft ofa blackijb colour.  The morks  about
the Mine  the moli remarkable, are thefe: i. An 0-jerjhoi-wheel  in the
Earth, which moves the Pumps  to pump out the mater ;  and this not
placed in the Mine  but on one fide of it, and a paffage  cut out of the
Mine  to the bottom of it, by which the Mine  is drained ; and another
paffage  or cunicttlus,  out of the plače where the mbeel  is turned, which
lets out the mater  which turns the mheel,  and alfo the mater  u-hich
comes out of the Mine  into the Neighbouring Valley.  a. The majbing
of the Or e  or Stone,  which they perform, as at other works, by letting
the mater  over it, and ftirring it; and this they do vvherefoever they
begin to work near the Superffcies  of the Earth,  for there the Calmej  is
lefs, and more mixed with Clay  and Earth  : but the mod: remarkable
mor k  is the calcining  ofthe Or e  /Tor ali our Lapis Calaminaris  of the
Shops  is the calcined Calmeff)  and it is vvorth the feeing; for they plače
Faggots  in a handfome order firft, and cover a large round Area  with
them, of about Forty or Fifty yards Biameter,  upon which they plače
Charcoal  in as good. an order, till ali be covered and filled up a yard
from the ground; then they plače ranks of the largeft Stones  of Calmey,
and after them fmaller,till they hivelaid ali on ; and then by fettingffre
to the bottom,  the fire  comes to each Piane,  and ali is handfomly calci¬
ned.  They make Calmey  alfo about two Engliff  miles from Bleyberg
in Carinthia,  They make it after this manner, They take the Ore  out
of the Mine,  fometimes they walh it, and fometimes not, they burn it as
they do Roli. Then they take it, and beat it in piecestwith a mallet;
They choofe the beft of it, and tbrovv away rthe drofš, the vvhiteft is
commonly the beft. From hence we went to Limburg,  meeting with
AivvtsSouldiers  upon the Road,who  defired money of us, but did not at-
tempt any thing againft us, we being many ofus together in Compa-

ny-

Eimburgis  feated upon a high 2W,which overlooks ali the Coun-z/,«^.
try, and a little River  runs almoft round it at the bottom.  The Avenue
to the Eomn  on the North-fide is difficult ali alo 'g upon the edge ofthe
Rock ; and the Gate  of the Eovon,  over which is the Governors Hoafe,
fpreads it felf from one fide of the Rock  to the other, and locks up the
paffage.  Here we flievv our Paffports  from the Spdniff  Plenipotentia-
ries; and in the Afternoon had a pleafant Journey to the Spaa.  In the
way we faw where the Frencb  Army had pafled the Country towards

0 b Metali


186 A Journey from  Colcn in  German/ to  London.

Metz-,  having lain about a Fortnight at Kichet,  after the taking of Mae-
šlreicht.

S{d ' Spa  is a neat Village  in the Foresl  of Ardenna,  feated in a bottom,

encompafled on ali Fides with Hills,  and on the North with fteep
Mountains.  So that it happening to rain  while we were there, the
plače was, in fome hours time filled with mater,  the Hay  walhed out
of the Meadoms,  the falls  in the Rover  made even, and Pohunt,  one
of the MineralFountains,  was drowned. There was not much Com-
pany when we were there, although it were in the hottefl time of
the year, which is moft feafonable for drinking the ivaters;  by reafon
ofthe wars, and the danger of coming through the Country to them.
But in Spa  it felf ali people are free from danger,  ali the Neighbouring
Princes  protečting it, and would count it very dilhonourable to difturb
a plače, which by the virtue  ofits Mineral Springs,  is fb benefičial to
Mankind.  Thefe ffaters  are not only drunk upon the plače, but are
alfo fealed up in Bottles,  and fent into many parts of Europe.  And Mr.
Coguelet,  at whofe Houfe  we lodged, told me that he fent it as far as
Saragofa  in Spain : and that he had at that time Thirty thoufand Bot¬
tles  empty, and waited for a good feafon to fill them, vvhich is the
hotteft, drjefi  time of the Summer,  and the hardejl Froft  in oVinter ;  at
vvhich times the mater  is ftrongej, Fparkling,  and brisk.  The chiefeft
of thefe Mineral Fountains  are thefe, Geronjler, Saviniere, Tonnelet,  and
Pohunt.

Gmnjter. Geronjler  is in the middle of a thick Wood,  about an Englifb  mile
and a half Southward of the Spa •  it is the ftrongeft of any, and the
beft adorned, being built up with slone,  and a Pavilion  over it, fup-
ported with four handfom fione Pillars.  There is a green plače clear-
ed in the Wood  near to it, and a little Houje  for the Patients  to warm
themfelves in, early in the morning,  or m cold iveather-  The Arms  of
Sr. Conrade Bourgsdorff,\v\\Q  adonted this Fountain,  are placed ovcr,
on two fides: and on the other’two this Infcription  in French,  and
High-dutch,  in a handfom Oval.

i U * L . '.i. ..x..

Le Reverendiffime & Excellentifime Sr Sr  Conrade Bourgfdorff,
Grand Chamberlan, & premier Confeiller d’Ejiat, Colonel & Gouverneur
General de tous-les Fort s & Fort er ef'e s du SereniJJime Elecleur deBran-
debourg dans fon Ešlat Elebioral, Grand Prevoji des Eglifes Cathedra-
les  <7’Halberftadt ® Brandebourg, Chevalier de 1’Ordre de St.  Jean, &
Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow,degroš  Machenau, Golbeck, Bouc-
kow, Oberftorff, &c.&c.&c.

This Fountain  fmells very flrong of Brim[lone,  and caufes vomiting
in a great many, yet palles chiefly by Vrine,  as they do ali; and
ftrikes a purple  with Nut-galls  more inclining to red,  than the voaters
efi.Fiinbridge.  The Sediment  is ofa light bleivin  the Fountain,  but of
a dark, dirty red  every where elfe. Not far from this is another
large S pr ing  in the Wood  much like it,but not as yet built and beautifi-
ed. ,

saviniere^ Saviniere  is another Fountain,  almoft as far from the Spa  Eaftvvard,
and built after the manner ofa Fovoer : the Acidula  are not fo ftrong
as the former. There is another Fountain  hard by this, alrnoft the
farne, held to be particularly good for the Stone  and Gravel.

The

A  Jburne)  from  Colen  in  Germany  to  Londoii. i  S

The.third is Tonnelet,  arifing in the Meadovo,  and built up vvith r ° nne!et -
[ione : But being there are no Trees  nor Shades  about it, it is not fo de-
lightful as the others. And Henričus ab Heers  in his Spadacrene  faitll
that thiš is more nitrous  than the reft, and caufes fuch a coldhefs in the
month  and ftomach,  that fevv can drink of it.

The fourth is Pohunt,  in the middle of the Town,  from vvhence moft pohuf.
of the mater  is dravvn vvhich is fent abroad,if no particular one be fent
for. This Vvas beautified vvith handfome Stone-mOrk,  by the Bifliop of
Liege.,  to whom this plače belongs, and this Efcription  fet over it, Sa-
nitati Sacrum.  It is alfo called the Fountain of St. Remaclus,  to whom
it vvas dedicated ; and thefe Ferfes  are likevvife engravea upon it :

Bbftrudum referat, durum terit, humida ficcat
Debili fortificat,fi tam e n ar te bibd.

Being at the Spa,  vve vifited Francbifriont  one Afternoon • pafilng
througha thick there is an old Caftle, and good Brimfione  and Themakingof
Fitriol morks,  the farne Stone  affbrding both ; and I prefume tiiay alfo Brimjione. "
make the Spa-mater  under ground, or at leaft be a principal Ingredient
in it. We faw the manner here hovv they melted, and caft their Brim-
ftone  firft into grčat Pails,  the florid and clear parts remaining at the
top and middle, the thick and more obfcure fubfiding and adhering to
the bottom and fides, and is that vvhich is fold for Sulphur Fivum.  We
favv alfo the manner of cafting the Britnftone  into Rolls,or Magdaleons :
And near unto this plače a fmoaking, burning,little Hill,  vvhich is thus
čaufed :  They throvv out the burnt Pprites,  out of vvhich BrimPlone
hath been diftilled, and the Fitriol drawn out by infufion, Upon this
Hill;  vvhich confifts ali of the farne matter, and ferments in time,
grovvs hot, fmoaks and burns perpetually, and vvithal drinks in a nevv
Fitriol  into its felf.

From the Spa  vve crofled over to Frapont,  a Fillage  feated upon the
pleafant River V ta,  or Ourte,  vvhere we took Boat and vvent dovvn a
rapid Stream,  yet one of the pleafanteft I ever favv,winding and turning
betvveen many green Hills, in part of the Fdrefl  of Arduenna.  We de-
fcended aftervvards thirty or forty fmall Falls in a long Boat made on
purpofe. The Bar  or Paddle  being only a fquare piece of Board  fix-
ed to the end of a 7We,thc Pole  ftanding petpendicularly in the middle
ofit. The delightful River Fefa, or  the fflefdret,  foon met us, and joyn-
ing together,we fell dovvn vvith them into the Maes  near £ž<?g<?.Upon
the Banks of thefe Rivers ali the Arms, Guns,  and other Infiruments  are
made,for vvhich the Country of Liege  is remarkable.

Liege, Luick, Leodium,  or Augujta Eburonum •  Leatried Men tliink
this City to be feated near that Fally,  vvherein two Legionš of Julius
Caf ar,  under Sabinus  and Coita,  vvere dellrojed by Ambiorix,  chief
Commander of the Eburones.  It is feated upon the River Mofa,  vvhich
entring vvith two Streams,  makes fome pretty Iflands.  Three other
fmall Rivers arifing in the Foreši,  of Ardenna,  are alfo' here received
into the Maes,  whereby they have plenty of Fifh and other Convenien-
cies. The City is very populous, and fo it hath been in former
Ages,when as Charles  Duke of BurgundpfssAi^  it,and deflroyed an huh-
dred thoufand of the people.

B b x It

18*8 A Journey from  Cokn in  Germany to  London.

It abounds with fair Churches,  ftafely Convents,  and Religious  Foun-
dations, richly endowed, fo that it hath been called the Paradife of
P rieft s,  and is in that kind the moft notable in ali thefe parts. The
Palače of the Bilhop is a noble Fabrick, built by Cardinal Erardus,
Bilhop of Liege.  The Cathedral  bears the Name of St. Lambert,  who
being Bilhop of Maeftreicht  was murdered by Dodo  and others, about
the year 6iz. The Sea was afterwards tranflated unto Liege  by Hu-
bertus,  as it had been formerly from Tongres  to Afje/?mcZtf,and the Bo-
dy of St. Lambert  removed unto this Church, vvhich is at prelent very
noble, being built of a reddifh Stone, very much carved without, and
handfomly adorned within. Between the Quire  and Sacrijly,  is this
Injcription  in very large Letters:

D. 0.  M

Intemeratce Fiigini  Marise, Saneh  Lamberto, Ecclefive ® Patria
Drviš Eutelaribus,  Maximilianus Henricus utriuftue  Bavariae Dux, Ar-
chiepifcopus & EltEhr  Colonienfis, Epifcoptu  C? Prmceps  Leodienfis,
Ernefti & Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum, Epifcoporum & Principum  Leo-
dienfium Nepos & Sucejfor, in fui & Predecefforum memoriam Ponehat.
MDCLVIII.

The Canons here are of grčat riches and power,and have the Elečbi-
on of the Bilhop and Prince, who hath alfo had the Titles of Duke of
#0«ž#ow,Marquifsof w»^,and Counr of Zc^/zand Hafbania.  In
the Coin of Maximilian,  the prefent Elečtor of Cohen  and Bilhop of
Liege,  I find this Infcription.

k

Maximilianus Henricus Dei gr at iti Archiepifcopus  Colonienfis, Epif-
copus & Princeps  Leodienfis,S«/>mw Bulloncnfis Dux t

Speutus  the Bilhop of Zz’fge,bought the Principality of Liege  of God-
frey  of Bouillon,  when he went to the Holy Land : And in the Treaty
cdCambray, 1559.  th® pofleflion of Bouillon,  and precedency of Ti; le,
was granted to the Bilhop of Liege,  although at this time alfo the
Houfes of La Four  and Mark  do bear the farne.

Of the Parilh Churches that of St. John,,  ard of St. Servajius  are
fair. Of the Abbeys that of St. Jacob  within the Town, and of St.
Lanrence,  built by Bilhop Raginardus  upon an Hill out of the Town,
are noble. There is alfo a Collcge of Englifh  Jefuites, well-feated upon
a Hill, where the Garden is handfom, and the Dyals, made by Francif-
cus Linus,  are worth the feeing: And an Englijb  Nunnery handfom-
ly built. In the Church of the Gulielmites,  out of the Town,lies the
Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville,  who, after he
had travelled through many parts, took an affe&ion unto this plače,
and here pafled the remainder of his life, and whofe Epitaph, and fome
Rareties of his, are Hill to be feen.

Bilhop hdotger,  who was confecrated by St. Gereon,  Arch-bilhop of
Colen,  and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City, and be¬
ing Tutor to Otho  the third, he found means very much to beautifie it,
to repair and build divers Churches, and endow them with rich Reve-

nues,

A ]ourney from  Colen in  Germanp to  London. 18<?

nues, and let the River Mae s  into the Town, which before ran upori
one fide of it.

As their Churches are fair and numerous, fob are their Beliš and
Chimes remarkable. In the Cathedral of Št. Lami er t  there are eight
large Beliš, and twelve lefler; and there is one fo great, as it is faid to
require Twenty four men to ring it. In the Church of St. Paul  the
Beliš and Chimes are confiderable ; as alfo at St. Lanrence  and the
croffed Friars.  It is alfo an Univerfity, and was fo famous in former
Ages,that they Hill take notice that at one time there have been Nine
Sons of Kings, Twenty four Dukes Sons, Twenty nine of Counts, be-
fides many of great Barons Students therein.

Their Speech here, as alfo at Spaw,  is called Roman,  and is a kind of
old French,  or Dialečt ofthat Languag% a great part of vvhich ismade
up of Latin,  or Roman  vvords : and they call the Neighbouring Lan-
guage of the Dutch, Tuifcon.  But many fpeak very good French.
They have fome Vineyards aflbrding a fmall Wine. The .Hillsabout
furnilh them with Quarries of good Stone, and of feveral kinds. They
have alfo divers Mineš and Minerals, and great quantity of Pit-coal for
Fire, in fome places fetched deep out of the Earth, in others nearer the
Surface: and in one plače J favv them beginning to dig where they im-
mediately found CoaL Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the
Water, are very confiderable at thefe Mineš; in fome places moved by
Wheels,at above a Furlongs diftance, to which they are continued by
ftrong Wood-work, which moves backwards and forwards continu-
ally.

The Cittadel  ftands upon a Hill, and is of great Strength; It was
builtto keep the City of Liege  under SubjeAion. For 1649. there
being fome difturbances in the City, Ferdinand,  the Elečtor of Colen,
offering to come into the Town to appeafe it, was oppofed by the Con-
ful, Jacolus Hennet,  who was foon after furprized and behcaded, toge-
ther with Bartholomceus Rclandus;  the Conful having fworn the E-
lečbor Ihould never come in whilft he were alive. And the Cittadel
foon after was ordered to be built. The Bridges are handfom: that
over the great Stream of the Maes  is very broad and fair, and hath
large ArcheS. Frbm hence we could read theElečbors name upon the
Cittadel, Mabeimilianui,  although it were at a very great diftance, the
Letters were fo  large.

From Liege  we had a pleafant pafiage down the Water to Mae-
ftreicht,  paffing by ^rgentau,  a Caflle feated upon a high Rock on the
right fide of the River, belonging then to the King of Spain,  aftenvards
by Vichet  in the half way, and then by Navagne,  a ftrong Fort in the
Maes,  which commands the River, and at that time did the Spa-
niard  fervice ; then by pleafant Rocks on our left hand, wherein many
Cuts and paftages have been digged till we came in fight of Maeflreicht.

This Town having been a httle before taken from the Vnited States
by a iharp Siege, was full of French,  and had a Garrifon in it of about
ten Thoufand men; and in the Market-plače  ftood about TwO hun-
dred large Fieldpieces. We faw the places where they made their
Batteries and their Mineš, the Out-works were very numerous, and
many of them undermined. Colonel Stbrff  Ihew’d us a handfom
Draught of ali the Works, Approaches and Manner of taking of the
Town.

About

A  Jmirney  from  Colen  in  Germany  to  London.

a  nobie Qu<ir-  About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great
of Stone ' Quarry of Stone, which is one of the nobleft fure in the World. Be-
tweeri Padoa  and Ficenza  I had formerly feen the famous Ca ve of Cu-
ftoza,  or Cubola,  faid to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth, and
Seven hundred in length, but this doth far furpafs it: the Roof is very
high and ftately in moft places, the Pillars not to be numbred,all very
large; we pafled two miles under ground amongft them : No Lau¬
rinih  con trived more intricate, and yet ali parts are uniform.

The Floor  ali in a le vel, and the Roofm  moft places of the farne height,
and fo much hath that uniform rule, which I fuppofe was fet to thofe
who firft digged, and fo hath fucceflively been obferved, added to the
beauty of this plače, that there is fcarce any thing more noble. It put
me in rnind of the hundred Chambers of Nero,  which he caufed to be
made under Ground in the Rocks  at Baite.  And the Mater  which we
met with in one plače, made me think of L\e.rds  admirable Fift-pond,
built in the like manner vvithin the Earth.  We came out again near
to a Conveht  Upon the Banks  of the River,  and returned by water to
Maeftreicht. .

The next day we parted Company. Mr. Neivton,  Mr. Ettrick,  Mr.
G rove,  Mr. C ar It on,  and Mr. Newcomb  went for Aken  and Colen  ; Mr.
Bates  and Mr. Dafton  went up the River  again to Liege,  at which
plače, ftaying a day or two to find a convenience to pafš to Brujfels,
we were nobly entertalned at a Dinner with Fenifon, Mild-boar,  and
other Difhes,  by that worthy Perfon and Learned Mathematician
Francifcus Slufius,  one of the great Canons  of Liege,  who alfo continued
his high Civilities  to us to the laft Minute  we ftayed in Fown.

Leaving Liege  we foon came in fight of Fongres,  or Fungrorum o-
tmsrei. pidum,Pae  moft ancient plače in ali thefe Countries. Ortelius  would
have it to be called of old Atuatuca :  It was a ftrong hold before the
coming of Julius Cte/ar  into Gaul,  and was afterwards made a Roman
Statiom,  and in procefš of time became fo great, that Attila  the Hun  de-
flroyed an hundred Churches  in it, it being at that time a Bijhops See,
which in the year 498 St. Servaftus  removed unto Maeftreicht,  Many
old Coins  and Antiquities  are ftill found here; and part of an old Chap-
pel,  faid to be built by St. Maternus,  Difciple to St. Peter,  is ftill re-
maining. When the King of France  made his great inroad into the
Low-Countries,  167Z. he borrowed this Town ofthe Elečtor of Cologne,
and then pafied on to Mafeick,  where croffing the Country to the
Rhtne,  by the fides of thefe great Rivers, Rhine  and Maes,  he made
that notable Incurfion,  and quitted not Fongres  till he had taken Mae¬
ftreicht  the year following. We dined this day at Borchloe,  and lodg-
ed at St. Fruyn,  or Sr. Fruden,  a handfome little Fown,  fo called from a
Church  and Abbep  herein dedicated to that Saint.

The next day we dined at Fienen,  or Filmont,  on the little River
Geet,  once one of the chief Towns in Brabant,  but long fince decay-
ed. In thefe Plain Countries,  in many places we faw finali Hills,  or
Sepulchral Eminences  of the Ground : And near unto the Malls  of Fie¬
nen,  are three very remarkable ones, faid to be the Fombs  of great Com-
manders.  In the Evening we came to Lovain.

imnin. Lovain  is the chief City  of that quarter of Brabant,  which compre-
hendeth Arfchot, Halen,  and Judoigne ;  an ancient and large City,
pleafantly feated upon the River Dele ;  it is of great Circuit,  and the
compafs

A  Journep  from  Colen  in  Germany  to  London.  i  y  i
compafr  of the ivall accounted above/^r m ile s  about: but there are ma-
ny void Spaces, Hills, Fields,  and Gardens  vvithin it, which m a kes it
very pleafant and delightful. There are herein divers gocd Buildin^s,
Convents,  and Churches: the chief vvhereof is the ftately Church  of St.
Peter,  the Convent  of the Carthufians,  the Hoftital.  The publick Pa¬
lače  or Senate-houfe  is alfo Noble.

It is the great Z>nrverfity  of thefe parts, faid to ha ve had its beginning
about 926. but endowed by John  the Fourth, Duke olBrabant,  and
confirmed by Pope Martin  the Fifth, 142$. There are forty three Col-
leges  in it ; whe:eof the four chief are l.tlium, Fa'co, Caftrum, Forcus.
Goropius Becanus,  a Learned Man, and Native of Bruffels ,  affirms,
That no TJnbverfitp  in Italy, France, Germany,  or Spain,  is to be compa-
red unto it for its elegant and pleafant Situation. The Vniverfitj  is un-
der the Government ofa A<?/?or,who is in great efteem and honour a-
mong them. This Vn'rverfity  hath produced many Learned Men .•
But neither the Buildinpp  of the Colleges,  nor their Endomments  do e-
qual thofe of our Vni-uerfities,  and the Situation thereof feems not to
exceed that of Oxford.

We travelled from hence to Bruffels,  being moli part of the way in
the fight of the very high Tower of the Church  of St. Romlald  at Mach-
lin.

Count Monterei  was then Governour ofthe Low-Coun’ries,  and re-
fided at Bruffels,  the ordinary Seat of the Governours  of the Spanifh
Netherlands ;  which City  he had taken čare to fortifie, and to make it
more tenable, if it fhould be attempted by the French.

From Bruffels  we pafled to Antiverp,  where we vvere handfomely
treated by Mr. ffiauters  and Mr. H ar top,  and having vifited fome ofour
Friends, the next day we pafled the River Schelde,  and took Coach in
the morning, travelling through a fruitful, plain, fiat Country, fet with
rows of Trees  in moli places, and arrived in the evening at Ghent.

Gaunt, Gandavum,  or Ghent,  is efteemed to be the greateft City,  not Gtah
only of Flanders,  but of ali the Low-Countries,  and challenges a plače
amongft the greateft in Europe;  but at prefent it decreales and de-
cays rather than encreafes. And if Charles  the Fifth were now alive,
he could not put Pariš  into his Gant,  a greater Glove would not fit that
City, whičh is fo much increafed fince his time. In Ghent  are many
noble Convents,  among which the Jefuites  is one of the faireft : There
is a Cloifler  alfo of Englifh Huns.  The Cathedral  is ftately, and the
Tower  belonging to it being very high, gives a profpečt of a pleafant
and fruitful Country round about it. There are divers Piazzds,  large
and fair ; in one of which ftands a large gilded Statva  of Charles  the
Fifth, Emperor and King of Spain,  who was born in this City. The
whole7cw«is generally well built, and the Street s  are fair and clean,
The Inhabitants  hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly gi-
ven to Sedition,  and for their fakes a great many other Cities  in
rope  are punilhed, and have in a manner totally loft their Lilerties:
For the Spaniards,  to curb the Seditious hufflour of the People of Ghent,
were putupon the Invention of building Cittadels  in Cities, \\BvcCcy  a
few Souldiers  are able to fupprefs any Commotion, cyt  beat down the
Tctvn,  ib that here I faw the firft Cittadel  that was built in Europe  by
Charles  the Fifth:"It is not large, and the Baslions  little, and thoughof

1^2 A Journep front  Golen in  Germany to  London.

a Regular Figure, yet not fo convenient as thofe of latter days, fin.ce
that Art hath been improved.

From Ghent  we pafled by water about Twenty Englijh  miles to
Ar«g?r, a very elegant large City, and formerly a plače of vcry great
Trade, being within three Leagues of the Sea; fo that from the tops of
their higheft Buildings,  the Ships under Sail are vifible, and at the
farne time a Fleet of Ships, and a large Territory of a fruitful, pleafant
Country, comes’ under your eye. It is fortified with Works of Earth
and deep Ditches.  The Convents  are numerous: The artificial Cuts
of Water  from this Town to ali places, makes it of cafie accefs; and
though it hath no E ort,  the Pajjage  from hence to Oslend  by veater  is
fhort: And they are at prefent upon a Defign of bringing Ships up to
this City.

ofand, Ojlend  is about Ten E«glifo  miles from Bruges,  feated upon the
waves of the German  Ocean, which wafh it continually on one fide:
And they ha ve now contrived it fo, as to let the Sea in almoft round
the Town fora greatfpace, whereby it isbecome much more flrong
and defenfible than before. For when I looked upon it, and confidered
what it was when it was befieged by Arch-duke a  Ibertus,  and taken by
Marquifs Ambrofius Spincla,  1604. with an honourable Surrender af-
ter three years Siege, I cannotbut aferibe vtry much unto their Sup- '
plies from Engjand,  and the obftinate Valcur of the Defendants, efpe-
cia!ly the Englifb  under Sir Francis Dere. Sluys  being in the hapds of
the States  of the Tdnited Provinces,  and Dunkirk  under the French.
The Spaniards  poflefs no other Fort  in Flanders  but this and Nenport •,
and this being the moft confiderable they are now making the Haven
large, and are upon a confiderable Work in order to the carrying of
their Ships over in to that Cut vvhich goes from Oftend  to Bruges,  out
of their Harbour, by the means of a very great Lock  or Receptacle of
fflater,  which is to communicate with both ; which, when it is finifli-
ed, may be very advantageous to the Traffick,  of the Spanijh Nether-
lands.  This Town  ftands J’ er y l°w, but the Streets  are ilraight, large,
and uniform

From hence I went ali along upon the Sea-lhoar to Nervport,  a hand-
fom Toivn,  with large fair Streets,  but low built There vvere then a
great number of fmall Ships in the Harbour.  This plače is famous for
the Battel of Neivport,  fought here by Albertus,  and Count Maurice,
wherein the Spanijh  Forces loft the day, and much of the honour of
the Field was due unto the Englijh  under Sir Francis Vere ;  fince which
time,alt hough there hath been much bloud Ihed in thefe Quarters, yet
there hath not been fo confiderable a Battel ever fince, although the
Englijh  had alfo the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight
called the Battel of the Sandhili,  when a part of the Army of French
and Englijh,  vvhich befieged Dunkirk,  fought widi the Spanijh  Forces
by Neivport,  and overthrew them.

From Newport  we put to Sea, failing out of the Harbour, and inten-
ding for England;  but the wind being very high and contrary, after
having been at Sea ali the night, and had leifure to take notice of the
great rumber of Sands  upon that Coaft, in tlte morning we put into
Mardike,  where at prefent there is only a Fort of Wood juft above the
High-vvater mark, with fome few Guns mounted. The other Fort,
more into the Land, being demoliflied.

Dunkirk

A  Joumey  from  Colen  in  German/  to  London.  1^3

Dunkirk,  is much increafed of late, and the King of France  hath not
fpared money, to render it confiderably ftrong. He hath very near
iiniihed a noble Cittadel,  begun by the Englijh  while this Town was
in their pofTeflion, wl)ich hath the Sea  on one fide of it, the Haven  on
another, and the Sandhdlf  towards’the Land, which when the wind
is at South-weft, doth fomewha£ annoy it: To prcvent which, the
French  have made divers Cuts and Channels through the Sands,  into
which the Sea entring, doth moifljen and fix  the Sand, fo as they are
not fo apt to fly. And every Bajllon  is fprucely kept and covered with-
in with green Turf. Beyond the old W.all of the Town, there are now
great Works drawn, which encompafs fo large a fpace of Ground, that
the Town is made bigger by half: And in this part ftands the Enplifb
Nunnery, and many handfbm Buildings. The new Fortificationš are
very large; and the Baftion towards the North the moft ftately. The
Port is large and capable of receiving a .great number of Ships, but at
Iow water it is almoft dry; and there are fo many Sands before it, that
at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it.

From Dunkirk  we travelled by Land to Graveling,  where the Works
are of Earth, large and high, the Church ftately, the Streets broad, but
the Houfes low, and at prefent not populous. The Marquis de Bel—
fond s  with the French  and my Lord Ruterford  with his Scotch,  and
En^lifh,  came before Graveling,  upon the (kteenth of Auguft,  165-8. and
■carried the plače in tvvelve days time; Don Ckriflopher de Manguez
vielding it upon the twenty eight, on the farne terms that it was deli-
vered up by the French  to the Špani ar ds  1651.

From Gravelini  I came to Calais,  from whence fetting Sail in the
morning, we came to Dover,  and the farne day to London*



Travelled fome years fince, betvveen Penice  and Genoa,
g through many Countries of early Civility, feafed ih
the middle of fhe temperate Zone, in a fruitful and
happy Climate ; affbrding plentifully ali Neceflaries
for Life; and through Countries vvhich have not only
been confiderable for their copious produčtion pfCorn,
Fruit, Silkj Wine_andOyl, but alfo for having been
very fortunate in ali Ages, for bringing into the World Perfons of great
Farne and Renown, who have rendred this Trači of Earth more than
ordinarily remarkable for great Ačlions in ali times. The memory of
which is Hill preferved not only in their Writings, but alfo in their
fplendid Buildings, and Antiquities ; though no parts have tafted more
deeply of the dangcrous variety of fortune, thefe having fuflered the
frequent Incurfions of many fierce and warlike Nations. Having
therefore formerly enjoyed fuch variety of obfervable Obječts, I could
not remember this Journey without fome confiderable fatisfačtipn, ef-
pecially having at the farne time had thegood luckto travel a great
part of it with my worthy friends, Sir William Trumbull,  Mr. Soames,
Dr. Palman,  Dr. James,  and Mr. Dafoivood,  vvhich makes me bold,
upon the opportunity of this fecond Impreflion, to add further this
Ihort Account.

■ We pafled from Penice  to PaJoa  by water up the flream of the
pleafant River Brent,  having ali day long Houfes of Pleafure, and well
built Palaces on each band of us. We entered this River near Lizafti-
fina,  five Miles from Penice ; where formerly a Wheel, or Engine was
placed, to convey the Veffels into the River. The Venetians  having
long fince ftopped up the entrance of the Brenta,  left that by the con-
tinual Defcent of the Water, the Stream, and Channel mightbe di-
minifhed, loft, or altered ; and the pafEges for their Veffels rendred
dangerous, or inconvenient; but this is othenvife contrivcd at prefent,
and fbur large Locks or Soffegni  are made ufe of, both to keep up the
Water, and to facilitate the paffage of the Veffels. Thefe are placed at

Stra,

A Journey from  Vcnicc to  Genoa.

Stra, Dolo, Mira,  and Moranzan,  and are very remarkable, confidering
that the River in thefe places is locked up, and the Veflels vvhich are
to pafs are brought in between great Gates; and the vvater let in or out,
as they have occafion to pafs up or down the River.

The landing-place at Padoa\s  handfomly fet ofF With Rone fteps,
continued for a long Race, along the fide of the River, after the
manner of the landing-place at Ghenh,  and fome otherelegant Cities of
the Low Countries.  The outward Wall is ftrong, being weft iortified
according to the Modern Rules of Fortification. in the time of Leonar¬
do Loredaro,  Duke of Venite;  and to render it more flrong, the Ri-
vers of Brenta  and Bacchiplione  are let into the Town Ditch. The in-
ward Wall is now moli confiderable for its Antiquity, and for retain-
ing the name of its Founder; it being Rili called Antenors  Wall: It
containsa far lefs fpace of ground than the former, Padoa  being buik
in this refpečt like to the City of Aix la Chapelle, or Aken,  havkig
own Town vvithin another.

That Patavium,  or Padoa  is one of the oldeft Cities of Europe,  built
prefently after the Trojan  War, is confefled by Ancient Writers ;  and
fo generally believed of old, that Livy  lays it down for the Ground-
work of his Hiftory ; beginning in this manner, Jam primum omhium
fatis conftat, Troja capta,  &c. i. e.

In the firft plače it is fufficiently manifeft that Troy  being taken, the
Grecians  executed the utmoft of their rage upon the Trojans, /Ene as
and Antenor  only excepted, by reafon of their ancient friendlhip with
the Greeks ; and in refpečt that they had alwaysendeavoured to make
Peace, and reftore Helena.  After various fortunes, Antenor  brought
a great Number of the Heneti,  who having loft their King, Pylemon
at the Wars of Troy,  and being driven out of Faphlaponia,  by a Fa-
čtion, were now feeking new Seats and a Captain to lead them ; and
came along with them to the bottom of the Adriatick  Gulf, drove out
the Eupenians  who inhabited between the Sea and Alpes,  and eftablifh-
ed the Trojans  and the Heneti  in thofe Countries.

Martial  alfo faluting Flaccus,  a Padoan  Poet, calls him,

Flacce, Antenorei [pes & Alumine L$ris.

' o’ > - ' • i " : '•  J 1  . ' G. f T■" - A ‘ .«

And that you may more firmly give credit to it, you may further
alfo have the authority of a Goddefs for it; for Tenus  is introduced
expoftulating in thefe terms with Jupiter,  in the behalf of /Eneas.

Quem das finem, Rex m apne, malorum ? y

Antenor potuit, mediis elapfus Achivis,  i.

Illjricos penetrare finus, atque intima tutus

Repna Liburnorum, et fontem fuperare Timavi ;

Zinde per ora novem vajio cum murmure montis
It mar e p r or up t um, et pelapp premit arva fionanti:
Hic tamen ille ur lem Patavi,fiedefque locavit
Teucrorum, et penti nomen dedit, armague fixit.

i. e.

C c 2

A  Jourtiej froni  Venice to  Genoa

i. e.

What time, great King, {hali terminate our woes ?

Safe could Antenor  break through ali his foes,
Pierce to the bottom of the Illjrian  bay,
View Kingdoms, where Lilurman  Princes fway ;
Pafs the nine mouths of herce Tima-uus  vvaves,
Which rores upon the hills and o’er the valleys raves,
And there could hx; and on that foreign ground,
Great Padods  tow’rs, for after ages found ;

New name the people, and free from ali alarms
Hang up, in peace, his confecrated arms.

In thofe days when the art of Navigation was but in its infancy,and
the Mariners very unwillingly parted with the hght of land, Antenor
was forced to keep dole, and creep along the Coaft of Peloponnefas,
and £/>zr zzr,. and then lail by the Illjrian,  and Liburnian  Shoars, vvhich
are very uneven and troublefom to deal with, being full of Creeks, un-
fafe Bays, and Rocks; behdes very many Iflands of various fhapes:
Whereas if he had crofled over to the It altan  coaft,he had had a nearer
voyage, and fayled with pleafure ali along an even, bold, brave
Ihoar,

The people of Padoa-ste  well pleafed with the thoughts of their An-
cient fpunders and Progenitors, and they ftill preferve the tomb of An¬
tenor,  near to which at prefent ftands the Church of Saint Lawrence,
and in their publick fhows they will ftill be reprefentirg fomething of
Troj,  and the old Tcpjam,  and in one plače I faw a horfe of wood, a«.
bout twenty foot fiigh, in imitation of the old Trojan  horfe ; but, I
fuppofe,nothing near fo big as the firft original: Yet when I conhder
that above eleven hundred years after the deftručtion of Troj,  when
Tovvns and Buildings were very much amplihed and improved, Pom-
pey  coming in Triumph, could not enter even the gfeat Triumphal
gates of Rome  it felf in a chariot drawn by Elephants, an Animal that
feldom or never comes to be fo bigh as this Horfe, it may well be fup-
pofed that they could not have received, even this poor model of the
firft great one into the old town of Troj  without pulling down their
walls.

The City of Padoa  was always a friend to the Romans,  and did them
great fervice in their wars again ft the Galli, Senones,  the Z>mbrians,
Boians, hfulres, Cimbrians  and Carthaginians,  and - ftuck clofe to their
Intereft till the time of the declination of the Roman  Empire ; When
Attila  the powerful King of the Huns  with fire and fword deftroyed
it; and when after divers years it was rebuilt by the favour of Narfes,
the Eunuch, General to the Emperor Jtdjinian,  it was again lamenta-
bly ruined by the Longolardian  Princes, who by fhooting arrows, with
firebrands fixed to them, fet the City on fire, and took it. But under
the Empire of Charles  the great, and his fucceffors, it arofe out of its
afhes again, and flourifhed for a long time; being governed firft by
Confuls, and then by a Podefta, untill the time of their dreadful Ty-
rant Ezzellin,  who harrafled, banifhed, tormented, and maflacred the
Inhabitants, cramming their own Wells vvithin the City,full with their
mangled

।  A  Journey  from  Vcnice to  Gcnoa. 197

mangled bodies, and amongft other feverities, upon an angry diilail,
againfl them, flew ten thoufand of them in one day at Verona.  But
notwithflanding thefe cruelties, they recovered their liberty again after
the death of Ezzellin,  and by degrees bčcame very powerful, having
under their jurifdičfion, Vicenza, Verona, 7‘rent, Trezifo, Feltre, Beliti-
no, Ceneda, Seravalla, C h oza, Baffano,  with its terfitories, ali tlie Pole-
fine  or P emnfula,%x\&  the greateft part of Friuli,  with other important
Places ; when in the end ;  Marfilio di Carrara  made himfel \ Capitamo
or Governor of the City. This noble Family of the Carrarefi,  very
povrcrful in thefe parts, came from their Caftle of Baffano, and 'fived in
Padna.  where they became very ccnfiderable and fiding with tl e Pope
againft the Emperor Frederick  the fecond, they \vere driven out by
Ezzellin,  but when upon the fuccefsful attempts ofthe Roman  Legate,
An/edin,  a commander under Ezzellin,  was overthrovrn, they were
again reilored, dignified, and ellabliihed in the goverhment oiPadoa ;
which they poflefled, with fome variety of Fortune, from one to ano-
ther in their own Family, for 'about an hundred Years’, in the conclu-.v
/ion of which, they were feized on by the Venetians,  who thought fit
to put Francifco Novello,  and his Sonsto death in the year 1405-. And
after this manner, by having totally extinguiflied the noble Family of
the Carrarefi,  vvithout fear of any further claim,or difpute,they pofle/E
ed themfelves of the City of Padoa,  and hold it in their hands to this
day.

The Buildings at Padoa,  both publick, and private, are very confide-
rable ; for mofl of the City is built upon Arches, making handfom
Porticds  or cloyflers on eachfideof the ftreet; after the manner of the
houfes in the Piazza of Convent Garden, which at ali times hfford
a good defence againil the Sun, and Rain,and many of the hotiles are
painted on the outfide,with Very goodl<Hiftory-Painting in Frefco;  their
Churches are fair,and divers veli adorned ; The Domo, or Cathcdral
Church is large, feated near the .middle of the City ; endowed, and
mightily enriched by the Emperor Henry  the fourth; whofe Emprefš
Berta  lies buried here. TheRevenues of this Church at prefent are
reckoned to amount to a hundred thoufand Crdvvns a Year; and be-
fides the Monuments of many eminent perfbns, they preferve here
the body of St. Daniel,  of Cardinal PilRo da Pratta,  Ind of Cardinal
Francejco 'Aalarella.

Tite Church of St. Antonio  is vifited by perfons far and near, and Su
the exquifite Defign, artificial Carving in Marble, the handfom Quire Church at p&
and rich Ornaments make it worth the feeing. The top of the Church doa '
is made up of fix Cupolds  čovered with lead ; the Chappel of St. Anto¬
nio  is nobly let out with twelve marble pillars,and a rich roof. Betvveen
the Pillars are carved the miracles of this'Saint, who lies interred un¬
der the Altar, upon which fland feven Figures made by Titian Afpetti,.

a good flatuary'of Padoa,  and behind the Altar there is a moft excel-
lent Baffo relievo  done by Sanfovinus, Eullius Lombardus,  and Cam-
pagna Veronenfis.  Over againil the Chappel of St. Antonio  ftands the
Chappel of Saint F<zlix ; and his tomb nobly wrought, with coloured
marble, and the whole fplendidly adorned, with the paintings of the
highly celebrated Giotto.  The chief Reliques in this Church are, the
Tongue and Chin of St Antonio,  a Cloth dipped in the blood of our
Saviour, Three thorns ofhis Crown, and a piece of the wood of the

Crofs,

'  A  Journey  from  Vcnice  to  Genoa.

Crofs, fome of the hair and milk of the blefled Virgin,and fome of the
blood of the marks of St. Francis.  Before the Front of the Church
thcre is a handfom brafs Status on Horfe-back, reprefenting- the great
Venetian  General Gattemela.  St. Antcnio,  lived fix and thirty years,dy-
ed upon the thirteenth of Jun?, ix;i,  and was canonized by Pope
Gregory  the ninth in the City of Spoleto,  1x37.

The convent of the black Monks of St. Benedikt  may compare with
moft in Italy;  and their Church dedicated to Santa Giujlina,  built by
Palladio,  is one of the faireft in 'Europe.  Saint Giujlina  was a Virgin,
and Martyr, daughter to V it alian o  of this City; ihe fuffered Martyr-
dom in the time of Maximianus  the Emperor. In this Church there are
Hill preferved, as they fay, the body of St. Luke,  the Evangelifi, of St.
Matthias,tte  Apoftle, of two of the innocem Children,of Profdochimus,
the converter of thefe Countries to the Chriftian Faith,and firft Bifhop,
of Padoa ; of Maximus  their fecond Bilhop, and of Santa Giujlina.
The Front of this Church looks into a fpacious plače called Prato del-
la Valle,  wherc the Gentlemen meet in their Coaches in the Evening,
for their pleafure. In a handfom room or burying plače on the South-
fide of this Church is a round old red marble Bone, upon which the
headsof many Martyrs were cut off; and near to it a line vvhite mar¬
ble Well, called Pozzo d’ Martiro,  or the Martyrs  WelJ, a plače of great
Devotion.

Where the Temple of Jun o  ftood in old time, there is now built a
handfom Church, dedicated to St. Auguftin,  wherein are divers Mo-
numents of the Family of Carrara,  the Tomb of Charlotta,  daughter
to James  King of Cyprus,  and of Petrus Aponenfis,  a great Philofopher.

II Pont e Molino,  vvhere there are thirty Water-Mills together, and
the Caftello delle munitioni,  both built by Ezzellin,  are vvorth the fee-
ing. La Corte del Capitanio  is fplpndid, and was the Palače of the
Carrarefi.  The Palazzo della Ragione,  ,where the Courts of Juftice are
held, is very large, beautiful, and highly confiderable, both without,
and vvithin; being built of Marble with rows of Pillars without, and
. vvithin there are Heads and Infcriptions for divers eminent Perfons of
this City ; the length hereof is 25-6 Foot, and the breadth 86 vvithout
any Pillar or fupport in the middle.

The Univerfity of Padoa,  was founded in the Year 12x0. by the
Emperor Frederick  the Second ; and the Schools are fair, and large,
containing one Quadrangle, with rows of Pillars above and below;
and befides handfom Schools on every fide, there is a very convenient
Anatomical Theater. The Phyfick Garden is large, of a round Figure,
walled about, and well ftored with Plants. The Prefečts hereof have
been Men of Note, as Aloyfius Mundella, Al<yfim Anguillara, Melchior
Guilandinus,JacoLus Antonius Cortufus,Projper Alpinus,zn^ Joannes Fef-
lingius.

The Arena,  or old Amphitheater at Padoa,  is an Antiquity very
remarkable; and the remains of fome of the Arches are to be feen
Hill in the Gardcns bačkvvard {  but the Arena  it felf, and the whole
Podturn,  are preferved intire,frce, and empty : And at one end thereof,
there is built a handfom Palače, the Front of which looks direčtly into
the open Amphitheater, and is a portion of an Oval Figure, and the
whole area,  or Arena  of the Amphitheater ferves for the court to it, in
fuch manner, that the entrance being now at the end, diredly oppo-
fite

A  Joume}  front  Vehice  to  Geriča.

__ _ _ _ ._ ■  __■—•
fite to the houfe, the handfome profpečt ofit, and the clear Avenue td it,
is extraordinarily furprizing, and extreamly noble,arid I could not ima-
gine that any Gentlemah would ever defire to have a fairer Court-yard
to his houfe,than the fpacious plairi A fena  of an oJd Roman Amphithea-*
ter,nor a better Wall than a high intire handfom JW/«?w,the'like to which
perhapsis not at thisday any vvhereelfe tobe feen. And I mufi freelv
confefs, That of the RemainS and Ruines of t vrel ve old Amphitheatersj
which I have feen my ielf, I have not met with any one that comes near
it • for ih the Amphitheater at Done  in Poiclou,  which is cut out of a
Rock, and being of a fmaller dimenfion, and part of the bottom being
filled up, there is no vifible beauty of the Podiam,  the like may be faid
alfo of that at Nizza,  near the river Farm,  and that at Puzzuolo.  That
at Nifmes  is filled up with dwellihg Ildufes, in fuch manncr that the
upper feats only are diftinčtly vifible. The Amphitheaters of Bourde-
aitx, JCainttes, Arles, Garigliano,  that at Rome  near to the Church of
Santa Croce  in Gierufalemme,  and others are at prefeht fo much ruined,
that nothing of this nature diftinguilhable is to be expečted ; nay oven
about the Arena  at Perona,  and the great Čoliffeo,  or Domitian  s Am~
phitheater at Rome.,  the grouhd iš notv rifeh fo high, that the Podl¬
im  is at prefent either buried, or diffigured. But as the Arena  at Pa-
doa  is clear, and eviderit in this part; fo is it vvantirig in ali the reft :
and he that defires at this day to view ali the Parts of an Amphithea¬
ter, muft not fce one, but many; and by joyriing them together in
his thoughts he may collečt the figure, proportion, and dimenfions
df this fumptuous fort of building of the old Romani.

From the Walls of Padoa,  there is a plealant Profpečt of a plain
Country to the North, Eaft, and South; and of the Euganean  Hills to
the Weft, vVliich fupply the To V n tvith variety of Plants, and great
Number of Vipers. At a few Miles diftance are the hot Baths of
Alano,  and the Mineral drinking VVaters of Mont e Ort one,  as alfo Mar-
chefeObizzi s Country Houfe, which we faw with great delight, it be¬
ing welldefigned, and accommodatcd with a geod Armory, a Theater
for Conaedies, hdndfbm Stables, and a Tennis-court. and nobly parni-
čd both vvithiri, and vvithotit, by that great Mafter, Pavlo Peronefe.

Leaving the Ancient City of Padoa,  in the Two Thoufand, SeVen
Hundred and Eighty Fifth Year after its firft Foundation, according to
theit own compute, and Travelling Eighteert Miles thrdugh a fruitful
Country, we came to tile pleafant City of Picenža;  a plače worth the eicen^t
feeiog, by reafon that Palladius  hath hete ihown great škili in Archi-
tečiure ih his Rotunda,  in imitation of the Pantheon  at Rome,  in his
Theater exačtly proportioned to the ftrid Rules of Building, and other
fair Houfes in the Town. There are alfo two Arches worth the ob-
fCrving, one near the Gate, behind which there is a noble afcent up to
Santa Maria del Monte,  and another in campo Martio.  This City is
filled vvith Nobility and Gentry, and drives a great Trade in making
Silk, but is not ofany confiderable Strength.

The Piazza della Signoria  is as beautiful a plače, as can well be čon-
trived, and befides its being large enough to receive ali the Gentry in
an Evening, and to ha Ve Tilting, and Turnaments performed in it, it is
beautified with the exquifite Front of the Palazzo della Ragione,  of the
Capitanio's  Palače, and alfo with the Buildings of the Monte della Pie-
where Money is lent out without ufe to the poorčr fort.

A Journey  from  Venice to  Genoa.

Vicenza  is a rich Biihoprick efteemed at twelve thouland Ducats a
Year, and in the Cathedral, befides other Reliques, are preferved the
Bodies of Carpophorus,  and Leontius,  Martyrs of this Plače; but the
moft celebrated Relique of ali, is kept in the Church of the Santa
Corona,  belonging to the Dominicans :  It is one of the Thorns of our
Savioufs Crown, given by Saint Lem is,  King of France,  to Bartola-
meo Breganza,  a native and Bilhop of Vicenza.

The City of Vicenza,  or Vicentia,  is watered with the River Bac-
chiglione,and Perone,or Eretenus, befides two other pretty Streams called
the Aftichello,  and Seriola,  which highly confer to its delightful Situ-
ation, and Convenience: but by reafon that tbere are divers Hills
very near, it can never be made ftrong, or able to make any fignifi-
cant Refiftance ; and to fpeak the truth, it hath really been forced fo
many times, by every next bold Intruder, that few Cities,of this beau-
ty, and perfečtion, have been oftner ravifhed. It is thought to have
been built by the Galli Senones,  in the time of F ar (pitnim Prifcus ;  but
moft Authors reckon it to be more Ancient, and will have it to be
one of the twelve Cities built beyond the Apenninesfcj  the old Fuf-
cans;  and that the Gauls  poflefled it not, till the Tufcans  were driven
out. Thefe in procefs of time yielded it to the Romans,  who enjoyed
it long, even till the Corning of Attila  the Hun,  who notably lack-
ed, and plundered it. The next to thefe that were Lords and Mafters
of Vicenza,  were the OJirogotbs ; and after them the Lombar ds  : Till
the time that De/iderius,  the laft of the Lomlardian  Kings, having left
his fon Aldigier  in this City, was taken prifoner by Charles  the great;
and when it had ferved Charlemaigne,  and his Succeflbrs with various
fortune, in time it recovered its Liberty, and fet up for a free City ;
till the Emperor Frederick  coming upon it of a fudden, took,and burnt
it. Next to him Ezzellin  ruled over it; then the Padoans ; then Mafti-
no della Scala  firft Signore di Ver ona,and  his Family after him, till Gio-
•vanni Galeazzo Vifconte,  the firft Duke of Milan,  feized upon it, whofe
Dutchefs Catharina,  after the death of her husband, fet them again at
Liberty, and abfolved them from their Oath of Allegiance, when upon
Various Confultations in what manner they fliould govern themfelves
for the future and whether or no,they fhould unite with the Swiz-
zers ; Henrico Caprajdvus  Party prevailed, who perfuaded them to
give themfelves Voluntarily to the Venetian;  by means of which free
confent of their s, at laft they enjoy at prefent greater immunities, and
privileges than moft of their neighbouring Cities.

From Vicenza  we went to Verona,a  noble,ancient,fpacious City,ofabout
fix Miles round, well built, and now handfomly fortified by the Vene-
tians  with great Baffions.  It hath three Caftles, or Forts; two upon
the hill, and one by the River fide ; many ancient and many hand-
fom Churches,ftately Conventsand Buildings, both publick and private,
and is very well watered with the pleafant River Aiche  or Etjbe, Athe-
Ji s, Adige, or Adice.

The River Atbejis  is a noble River, which arifing above in
the high Rhatian Alpes  and pafling ali along through the Vallis Venu-
Jta,  comes rouling down by Trent,  and then vvinds, and turns,
within the City of Verona  5 and aftervvards, pafling through the
Fens near the Po,  enters the Adriatick  Sea; and many Authors
report,That the great Incurfion of the Ctmlrians,  was made by the
fides

A  Journey  from  Venicc  to  Gcnoa. 20 _l

fides ofthis River; which is alfo confirmed by Hermannus CruJeAus,
Gulielmus Xylander,  by the Bilhop of Auxerres  and divers other good
Tranflators of Plutarch,  as alfo that Catulus  laid encamped upon this
River,to hioder their further Invafion ; nay fome proceed to mentiori
a triumphal arcli crcčtcd at Verona  for Caius Marius  his Vičforv, in
thefe quarters: For Catulus  the Conful, Collegue with Caius MaritV,
vvho marched againlt the Cimbri,  defpairing of being able to defend
the tops of the Alp s;  where, being compellcd to divide hiš Forces in-
to feveral Parties, he might very much weaken himfelf, returned pre-
fentlv into Italy,  and placed his Army by the River Athejis,  fay they ;
vvhere clofing up the paffages o i bolh fides of the River, with ftrong
FortificatipnSjhe made a bridge whereby he might affift thofe on either
fide, if the Enemies, having forced tlie narrow Paflages, ihould invade,
and ftorrn them. But the Cimlrians  čeme on vvith fuch Boldnefs,
and Contempt of their Enemies, that mccrly to fhow their
Strength, and Couragc, rather than out of Necefiity, they went nakcd I>Iutarc,%
in the Shovvres of Snow; and through the ice, and deepSnow, climb-
ed up to the top of the Mountains, and from thence, placing their
broad Shields under their bodies, thcy' let themfelves flide from the
higheft precipicesdovvn thofe vaft Defcents; and when they had pitch-
ed their Čamp at a little diftance from the River, and furveyed the
Paflage,they begun to pour in upon the Romans;  and Giant-Iike, tearing
up the neighbouring Hills, and pulling up Trees by the Roots, and
great Trees tco, ,

Quales Aeria liquentia Jlumina circum,

Sive Padi ripis, Athejtn feu p rop’er amoenum,
Conjurgunt ge mina: Quercus, intonfaque Ccelo  v * r S- ^ nt

Attolunt capita, et fublimi verlice nutant.

Such overtopping,uncut Oakes as grow .

By pleafant Athejis,  or th’ liquid Streams of Po;

.And higher than the clouds, their Iofty heads do throvv,
Which feem to ftrike at Heaven, and nod at us below.

And throwing in heaps of earth, and great Corners of Rocks vvhere-
by to turn the courfe of the River, and heaving in huge mafly floats,
which beat againft the fide of the Bridge, and broke dovvn the fuppor-
ters,the Roman  Souldiers Ipft their Čamp,and fled ; yet nottvithftanding
ali this,there may fome doubt be made,whether they entred /tafy  by the
fides of this River,and Plutarch  himfelf doth not call the River, near
vvhich the Cimbrians  defcended, the River Athejisfaut w km<mva, orvm-
pgv •,  the River Atijo,  or Toja;  a River, which is at a great diftance from
any part of the Athejis ; and arifing in the Alpes,  runs evidently into
the Lago m aggior e,or Lacus V er b anus  ; and is next to the River Lejia.pt
Lefitis,  vvhich pafles by Vercelh,  and falls aftervvards into the Po :
and when Batorix,  King of the Cimbrians,  challenged the Roman  Ge-
nerals to fight, and bid them appoint their time, and placc, Caius Ma*
rius  returned this a-nfwer, that although it were not the Cuflom of
the Romans  to let their Enemies know,where and when,they intended to
give battel; yet he would at this time accept of his challenge, and ap-
pointed to meet him, in three days after, in the plains near Vercellij

D d where

A Journey from  Vcnicc to  Gcnoa.

where there was fpace enough for both Parties to iliow their valour ;
and to determine this Controverfy in a fair, and open field; and
where’he gave a total overthrovv to one of the greateft Armies per-
haps that ever invaded /taly ;  and hereby it feems to me,that this great
drove of Cimbrians,  or a good part of them, pafled over Mount Šam¬
pion,  or Mons Sempronius;  from which mountain the River Atifo  takes
its rife ; and the Defcription of the vaft Precipices, and fliding down
in their Shields, as it were a la ramaffe,  is by no means agreeable, nor
can it any ways be allowed for a tolerable Delineation of the paflage
into Italy  by Trent,  where the road doth no vvhere lye over any
fuch vaft Mountain; butthe terrible defcription by Mr Ra)mund,^d
Mr Lajfels,  ofthe bad way, and ill paflage benveen Briga,  and Domo,
over Mount Šampion  is very fuitable to the ancient account.

As the pleafant River Athefis  is very ferviceable to Verona, fo  the
four handfom Bridges over it, in this Town, are both ufeful, and orna-
mental; and the Walls about it, in a great meafure, remarkable ;
though Verona  being now very ancient, there is no good account at
this day, to be found; who was the founder of them, or by vvhom, or
at what time, they were firft built, it is manifeft hovvever, that they
long fince did good fervice, and that in the civil wars of the 'Com^s,
between Cafar,  and Pompey ; Auguslas,znd Antonius; Vitellius,  and
Vefpajian; Severus,  and Jalian  ; and others; this was a confideral Je
plače of ftrength, and fided with Caf ar  againft Pornpeypx>o\t AugdfiiaPs
part againft Marctu Antonius,  was for Vitellius  againft Vefpafiah,
& long after held out for fome time for Maxentius  againft Conftantine  the
great. The Emperor Gallienus  took fuch particular čare in fortifying
Verona,  tirat he left his name to the To n, and divers Infcriptions upon
the wall; for the Roman  Empire being much divided in his time, and
the force of the foreign Nations encreafing in many parts, he exprefly
commanded, to render the walls of this plače ftrong, which being
feated in the jaws of the Alpes,w^  more likely to be fwallowed firft
by the Northern Nations. Iheodoricus Amalus,  that great Conqueror,
and excellent King of the Gotbs  was in fucceeding times, marvelloufly
pleafed with Verona,  amplified and adorned it, rebuilt and fortified ire
vvalls, which were rendred, notwithftanding, in after ages, more con-
fiderable, by the Emperor Charles  the great,and his Son, King Pippin-
who made this the head City of Italy.  In latter times, Albertu* Sca-
liger,  brother to Mafiinus Scaliger,  the firft Soveraign Lord of Verona,
and his Son, Canis Grandis  more fully enlarged and fortified Verona,
againft the Incurfions of the Germans : And the Venetians,  laft of ali
have built large Baftions about itftrongly faced with Brick.

The City vvithin is convenient and beautiful, the Piazza a hand-
fome long Square, the Streets large, and the Town being built part up¬
on tl ePlain, and part upon Hills, makes the variety of the Prof-
petft more pleafing, looking fomevrhat lik« the beautiful City of Lyi>n
in France.  There are many-good Houfes; Conte Auguftino Giuslds  Pa¬
lače is particularly fair, and his Gardens delightful, in which I faw the
Aloe  Plant in Stem and Seed, the Stem or Stalk being about twenty
Foot high; the Churches are beautiful, among which Saint Anašiafius
is one of the faireft ; and the Cathedral and many others of them are
antient, this City being converted to the Chriftian Faith-by Saint Eu-
prepius,  their firft Bilhop, Seventy years after Chrift. St. Ženo,  their

Eighth

A  Journey  frcni  Venice  to  Genoa. 203

Eighth Bifliop, is their Patron, vvho lived in the time of Gallienus,  and
Four and Thirty of their Bifliops befides are Canonized. Teter Martyr
vvas alfo Born in Verona,  vvho vvas aflaffinatcd betvveen M-lan  and Co-
mo,  vvas Canonized by Pope Innocent  the Fcurth, and lies fplendidlv
Entombed in Milan.  Befides thefe great Religious Men, others, though
not fo Famous for Piety, have, notwithftanding been living ornaments
to their City ; among vvhich the excellent Poet C. Valerius Catullus  is
one of the firit, vvhom Ovid  mentions.

Mantua Virgilio gaud  Z, Verona Catulh.

And Martial  complements in this manner.

Tantum magna fuo debet Verona Catulio,
Ouantum parna fuo Mantua Virgilio.

C. Cornellas Nipos,  vvas alfo born in the territories of Verona,  to
vrhom Catullus  gives his Book.

C ni dono lepidum wrvum libellum,
Arido modo pumice expolitum,
Corneli  ? Zz/z, namipie tu jolebas
Me as ejje alii/uid putare nugas.

Corndius Nepos,  excellently skilled in Antiquity is faid to have vvrit-
ten a Chroniclc of the Koman  Aflairs, and other vvorks, and the Lives
of Illullrious perfons, among vvhich the life of Pomponius At tir us  is on-
lyextant.

C. VEmilius Macer,  a good Poet,vvas alfo of Verona. He  lived in tke
time of Auguslus Ctefar,  and vvrote of Plants,Birds and čerpents.

Srepe fuas 'volucres kgit miki grandiof AEvo,
Quieque noret ferpens, qure juvat herba, Marcer.

The next is Lucius Vitruvius, a  great Architečl and vviiofe Statue
vvith other famous men of this City is fet over the Court. The more
knovvn Marcus Vitruvius,  vvho vvrote the ten Books of Architečfure,
vvas of Kome.

Calus Plinius Secundus  vvas alfo an honour to this City; and of lat-
ter days many learned men by being born and living herc, have added
much to its credit,as Torello Sarayna,&c Onupht us Panvinius, who vvrote
exprefly of the Antiquities of their own City. Jeronimus, Fracaftori-
us, Joannes Baptijla Montanus, Antonius Fumanedus, Alexander Bene-
dictus, Gabriel Aerbus, Joannes Arculanus  vvho lived a hundred years
here, Guarinus, Joannes Antonius P ant he us, Joannes Baptijta Bagolinus,
and the admired learned Lady, Ifbta,Nogarola^\\o  among other trea-
tifes vvrote a dialogue, in vvhich fhe ingenioufly difcourfes vvho finned
firll, Adam  or Ei>e.

The Emperor Philippus  vvas flain at Verona,  by his ovvn Souldiers.
There vvas a Colony'fetlcd here by Pompey ; and one Pompeianus  held
out the Tovvn againft Conllantine  the great in the year The Em¬
peror Valentinian^tcr  that he made his Brother Valens  partner vvith.
him in the Empire and placed him in the Eaft, vifited this City, and

, D d 2, Theodofick- f

204

A Journey from  Venice to  Genoa.

Theodorick,the  Conqueror of Italy  and great King of the Goths  lived long
here.TZaczz/za, daughter of Valentinian,  the third, and of Eudoxia,  lived
the latter part of her time,dyed herc and was buried in the Church of St.
Steph  »,which vvas formerly their Cathedral in vvhich Church lye alfo
buried one and twenty Bilhops of Verona,  forty Martyrs put to death
in Dioclejtans  Perfecution, and four of the Innocent Children. But
there are other things vvhich ftill add to the beauty of this City.

TJrlibus Italice prasflat Verona fuperlis,
EEdibusJngenio, F lamine, Mont e, Lacu.

i. e.

Hills, Rivers, Lakes, Buildings and Artsdo grace
Noble Verona  above any plače.

The Lacus Benacus,  or Lago dl Garda,  is a very confiderable Lake,
near this plače, vvhich ftretches it felf from Pefchiera,  on the South,
Thirty five It altan  Miles to the North, and is in fome places Fourteen
Miles broad, and the Winds often blowing fiercely from the Neigh"
bouring Hills, make it rough, and troublefome, like a Sea.

Flublilus & fremitu, affurgens, Benace, marino.

Cleopatra  had once a defign to carry her Ships and Veflels crofs the
Country through /Egypt,  out of the Mediterranean  into the Red-Sea,
over that Iffhmus,  or neck of Land, vvhich divides Africa  from ^fia,
vvhich vvould have been a notable exploit: yet confidering that /Eg\pt
is a fiat Country, vvhich renders the defign more feafible, and that the
Territory about this Lake is very Hilly, it is an ačtion no lefs to be ad-
mired, which the Venetians  effečtually performed, when they brought
their Ships and Galleys out of the Adriatick  over Land into the Lago
di Garda,  to engage in a Naval Fight. upon this notable Lake, vvith
Filippo Vifconte,  Commander of the Milan  Forces.

There are divers handfom Tovvns and Villages upon the fide of the
Lacus Benacus,  as Lacifium, Baraolinum,  famous for the pleafant Bar-
dolin  Figgs, Garda,  vvhich gives it the modcrn name, Malfefenum, Ripa,
'Tufculanum,  vvhere there are ftill fome remains of old Benacus,  vvhich
gaveit the ancient appellation Maternum, Salodium, Defentianum,  a po-
pulous Plače, and of good Accommodation, Pifcheria,  through which
the River Mincius  paftes, and Iaftly the ruines of old Sirmio,  upon a
neck of Land, vvhich runs into the Lake, vvhere ftood formerly the be-
loved pleafing Villa  of Catullus.

Peninfularum Sirmio, Infularum([ue

Ocelle,  &c.

The beft Fifh in this Lake, are the Eels, the Trouts, and a Fifh pe-
culiar to it, calleda Carpione,  vvhich is thought to delight in fome par-
ticular Earth, Soyl, or Mineral at the bottom thereof, leeing that it will
not eafily live, and thrive in any other plače.

After the negligent reign of Gallienus,  vvhen the Thirty Tyrants
fprung up, and the remote Provinces of the Empire had taken the li¬
ber ty

A  Journey from  Vienna  to  Gcnoa. 205

berty to do tvhat they pleafed, the Almans  made ufe of this feafonable
Opportunity, and breaking into Itdy,  with an Army of tvvo hundred
thoufatld men, the fucceeding Emperor, Flavms Clavdius,  made a
ftout refiftance, and at length overthrevv them totally hear this lake of
Benacus. '

Mons Baldus,  or Mont e Baldo  near Verona,  is efteemed the jriofl Mount eMm-
confiderable Hill for Plants,and Medicinal Herbs of ali the Alpes  ; and
the Calderian  Baths are a further Eafe and Convenience to this an-
cient City.

Verona  is called Verona Volile,  and Verona Antiča,  and very ancient
it is vvithout doubt ; for Jujlin  fays exprefly, That the old Ganit
built Milan, Como, Brefeia, Verona, Bergamo, Trent,  and Vicenza;
and Livy  rnofl particularly, That the Gauls  polfefled themfelves of
thofe places where BrefeianrA Verona  ftand at prefengbutour Modern
Italian  Writers vvho are very unvvilling that thefe fpruce, polite Cities
fhould ovve their beginnings to any rough tramonrane Nation,are very
eager in aflerting, That they were built long before that time by the
ancient Tufcans,  but allow that they were afterwards poflefled, and en-
larged by the Gauls,  and that Vera,  a noble old Tidcan,  laid the firft
Foundation of this plače, and called it Verona,  after his own Name.
It vvas long after this, tfnder the Romans,  in the heighth and glory of
their Empire ; and in the declination of it,this City fhifted indiflerentlp*
till Attila  took and facked it; and when divers others fet themfelves
up for Emperors,and Sovereign Commanders,as Glybrius, Glycerius,Au-
gujlulus  and Odoacer,  King of the Heruli,  and Turingi,  it ferved
firft one, and then another, till Ženo  the Emperor, fent that renowned
Chriftian Prince, Theodorick,  King of the Goths,  into ltaly,  vvho con-
quered and poflefled it, as the due revvard of his valour ; and by this
means Verona  came to ferve the Goths, till Totilas,  and Te',as,  the Jaft
of their Kings were overthrovvn and flain by Narfes,  the Eunuch,who
not long after called in the Lombar ds,  being diiobliged by the Em-
prefs Sophia,  vvho endeavoured much to ha ve 'him rccalledj inftigated
her hulband, the Emperor Juftinian,  againft him, and fent him vvord
after ali his glorious Vičtories, and Services for them, That ihe would
make him come home, like an Eunuch as he vvas, and Spin amongft
her Maids ; to vvhich Narfes  returned this Anfvver,That hedid intend
it, as foon as might be, and that he vvould Spin her fuch a Web,
that ihe, nor ali her Maids together ihould never be able to unra-
vel; and immediately fent to alboinus,  the Valiant King of the Lom«
bards,  who had lately overthrovvn Cunimundas,  King of the. Gepidar,
and had taken his fair daughter Rofamund  to wife, but vvithal had
Slain the King her Father, and made a drinking Cup of his
Skull. Alboinus  vvas at that time poflefled of Pannonia;  but upon
the invitation of Narfes  came into Italy  vvith his vvhdle Force and
Attendants, and took ali the Country called formerly Gallia Cifalpina,
and began the Longobardian  Kingdom, vvhich prevailed in Italy  for
about tvvo hundred Years. This Alboinus  being exceflively merry,and
pleafant at Verona,  vvh re he had placed the chief feat of his new
Kingdom, amongft other Frolicks, he made poor Queen Rofamund,
one day, drink out of her Fathers Skull, vvhich fo digufted her,that
ihe perfvvaded Helmichild  to aflift her in the murder of her hufband,
for the reward of vvhich ačtion ihe promifed herfelf in marriage to

2o6  -4  Journey from  Vcnice to  Genoa.

him with the Kirigdom of Lombar dy  : but as fbon as it vvas performed,
they had hereby rendred themfelves fo intolerably odious to the Lon-
gobar dlan  nobles, and people ; that they were forced to fly away to
Longinus  the Exarch of Ravenna,  who being at the firft fight wonder-
fully enamoured with the exquifite beauty of Queen Rojamund,  per-
fvvaded her to difpatch Helmichild  and accept of him, to which in this
necefiitous condition, fhe foon agreed, and when Helmichild  was Corn¬
ing out of a Bath, and called for-drink, fhe had prepared fuch a high
poyfonous draught for him, that beforp he had drunk half of it,he was
fenfible of what was done, and Iaying hold of her, forced her to drink
the other half, whereby they both dyed together. After the Lom¬
bar ds, Charles  the Great, Pipin,  and the Berengarii,  and others placed
their Royal Seats here; and in the time of Otho  the firft, it became a
free City. Then Ezzelln  came in, and tyrannized over them.
Next to him, the Ancient Family of the Scaligers,  who for two hun-
dred years together had lived here in credit and repute,and were at
length advanced to the dignity of Sovereign Lords of Verona,  which
they held between two and three hundred years longer, and di-
vers of their high raifed Monuments are ftill to be feen m the ftreets
of this City. Antonio  the laft of tliis Family that reigned here, was
driven out by Giouanni Galeazzo Vifconle,  after him came Francifco
di Carrara,then  the Venetiansp^hn  loft it again to the Emperor Maxi-
milian^hnt  in Conclufion,in tke year, 1517. this City gave it felf up
totally to the State of Venice  under which they live happily at pre-
fent.

fheate A a mp /e' But  S reatc ^' remarkable curiofity, and the moft noble antiquity
mrt. ter at e ' hnVerona,  is the old Roman  Amphitheater-, the moft intire within fide,
of any now ftanding, and one of the firft Magnitude when it vvas built,
thedefcriptionofwhich dcfervesa Vohune by it felf, the Building be¬
ing beyond, imagination glorious and whoever enters it at this day is
prefently furprized with its magnificent Stručfure, I have here inferted
a Cut of it, as it may be imagined to have fhown it felf, when it was
firft built and intire; which if it had been then divided into two parts,
and one half removed from its Bafes, the infide of the other half would
have appeared in this manner. It is called at prefent the Arena,  it was
alfo formerly named Amphitheatram  and fometimes Cavea*

Prud.

Quidpulvis Caveac femper funebris, & lila
Amphitheatralis fpebtacula triftia pompre ?

A.  Is the Altar placed in the middle of the Arena,  in tke perfečt
Center of the Amphitheater, a facred bufinefs.

-Qu 'id fanclius ara
Ona lilit egeftum per mpjlica tela cruorem ?

This holy Altar drinks of blood,
By Myftick VVeaponsfpilt, a flood.

This was dedicated to Diana Scythica,  to Saturn  or to Mars ;  Dei-
ties that delighted in the fpilling of Human Blood, or to Jupiter Lati-
ar is  or Stygtus.

H te


A  Journey from  Venice  to  Genoa.  207

Ha funt delicia JoAs infernalis

B. B. B.  Is the sirena  properly fo called, or the fandy floor of the The Aren ^
Amphitheater, upon which the combatants fought: It was covered
with fand to fuck up the B!ood,for if it had becn paved with Stone or
plaftered, upon great effufion ofBlood, the Gladiators would have
been apt to have flipped or fallen down,- butbeing of Sand, or Gra-
vel , it was eafie to be turned, or raked away, vvhich it feems they
did fometimes ; and this Martial  mentions, fpeaking of a Lyon that
broke out of his Den and killed two Vouths.

Nam duo de tene ra ju-venllia c orpor a turla,
Sanguineam rali ris qua renovalat hftrnum,
Savus et infelix furiah dente peremit.

Martia non vidit majaš Arena nefas.

Two tender Striplings of the younger band,
As they were raking up the blood fand,
A Lyon f!ew, a fight more cruel ne’er
Was feen in Mars's  Amphitheater.

They fometimes alfo made ufe of Stone duft ; but the extra vagant
Emperors, Callgula,  and Nero,  caufed the Arena  to be ftrowed with
Vermilion, and Gold duft, or with the duft of a Mineral, which refem-
bled Gold- The Figure ofthe Arena  is Oval. In pacing it from one ex-
treme to the other, I found, it to be ninety paces long ; two of my
paces make five foot; and this is agreeable to the meafure of Monfieur
Defgodetz,  and Joannes Carotusfae  Painter of the Antiguities of Pero¬
na,  who reckons it to be two hundred and tvventy four foot long, and
one hundred and thirty five foot broad; but the Arena  of Domitians
Amphitheater at Rome,  is a hun lred and fifty of my paces long, or
three hundred and feventy five foot.

The Arena  is walled about with a wall of thirtecn or fourteen foot
high,in which there are divers Bor tula,C.C C.  or little Gates,orDoors,
belonging to the inward Cavesand Dens, from whičh the wild Beafts
ufually come out with Svviftnefs, Force, and Violence into the Arena,
and when the fights are over, thpfe vvhich are left alive are driven
back again into their Dens, with feveral Wheels and Engines,-

Cttrricull rotarumque verfata facles Leonem fedigit in Cavram.

Nor is it to be much admired, that the force of the, Rota,  and,
Axis,  vvhieh is able to remove any thing, fhould be povverful enough
to drive back a Lyon. This device, at prefent, being much improved
at Florence,  where they plače a man within a Monftrous green Dra-
gon movel upon wheels, vvhieh runs upon the wild Beafts, and
drives them back : and vvhileft the Lyons fometimes turn, and ftare
upon this formidable machine, the man vvithin thrufts two lighted
Torches, out ofthe eyes of the Dragon, able to out ftare any Beaft 4
and to Ihine more flaringly than the bright'Golden Iris  in the Lvons 1
Eye. In the hunting and baiting of Lyons, in former ages,they made

hfe

♦

a

208

The Podium

Suggujtum
Imperatoris;

The Seats.

A  Journey from  Venice to  Gcnoa.

ufe of great Oval fiat Shields, which covered their whole body ; and
in this pofture came on unfeen ; and if the Lyon Were ftill fo bold, as’
to advance againft this movifig wood, as he would fometimes, and
overthrow one of the hunters, yet ftill the Huntfman kept himfelf
covered vvith his Shield, and the Lyon was fatisfied with leaping upori
him , and pawing the Shield, whileft the man laid in fafety un-
der it. And the manner ofthis hunting of Lyons is finely exprefied,
in Paihting, in the Sepulchre of the Najonian  Family, lately difcover-
ed in the Campania di Roma,  whereby we may mderftand in what
high value, and delight,the Old Rcmans  held thefe huntings and fight-
ings vvith Beafts, vvhileft they Painted them in their Tombs, to recre-
ate the Shades below , and thought them fports worthy to be exerci-
fed and continued in the Elyfian  fields. In another part of the farne
Sepulchre there is painted the manner of the hunting efTigres which
is performed by the huntfmen uniting their Shields together, and bear-
ing up againft him, vvhileft one lifts up a lance above the Shields, and
vvounds the Beaft, or elfe by placing a looking-glafs in a wood, vvhich
the Tigre fpying, comes to it, and as he regards,and admires his own
ihape in the glafs, a Hunfman placed above, wounds him vvith a Spear
or Javelin.

Thefe Caves are now clearlieft to be feen in the Amphitheater of
Nizza, Arles,  and Doue.

D. D.  The rop of this Wall makes the Podturn,  behind vvhich the
firft row of feats begins.

This part of the Amphitheater vvas fometimes richly gilded
and adorned, and the Figures of Vičtory placed upon it, and Statues
handfomly contrived to throvv forth tinged, and perfumed liquors to
fprinkle and refreih tlie Knights, and Senators; and upon the outfide
of the Podium,  there vvere placed nets, and loofe rowlers, vvhich tur-
ned upon an axis,  to hinder the vvild Beafts from climbing up, and
whereby the Lyons, Tigers, Leopards, vvhen they leaped up ofaSud-
dain, by the quick turning about of thefe rovvlers, they immediately
fell down again.

E.  Is the Suggesium Imperatoris,  the Pulpit,Seat, or Throne of the
Emperor, a little Chamber, or Box, built for the Emperor’s perfon, in
vvhich he might either fit privately, and fee throtigh lattices, or have
the forepart of it open upon the Podturn.  This vvas firft caufed to be
made by Jttlius Ctefar,  and is mentioned by Suetonius  among other
exceflive honours which he received, and which were thought too
great by fome, that is, that he permitted his Statue to be fet up a-
mongft the Kings, and a Throne,to be built for him in the chi’ef plače
of-the Amphitheater, and when in NčtVs  time by the help of Ma¬
chines,they attempted to ačt Icarus,  the poor fellovv that vvas to fly
crofs the Amphitheater, fell dovvn near the Emperors throne, and im-
brued it vvith his blood : But Trajan  had the loweft Seats of the Thea-
ters, Amphitheaters, and Circuss  made plain, and equal, as at firft ;
vvhere the People vvere highly pleafed to fee, not the Box, as
formerly, vvhcrein Great Ctefar  fat, butto fee him in perfon fitting e-
qua|Iy with the reft of the Nobility.

The feats of the Amphitheater are next to be confidered, vvhich in
this at Verona,  at firft, vvere five and forty; but thftfe of the lovveft
rovvs are novv under ground. There remain vifible at prefent, ali of

good

T^/ie o u fil.de fi-' the . Imphithcatcr at ^Afifirnes
'Rounč) edusut tehich there are one hundred and b^entp odrčke s and as rnanp 'Ptllars, fitsstip in tke upjs er rouse

G

A Journey from  Vcnicc to  Genoa.

good Stone, forty two, each of them about half a yard high.

F. F.  are the lower Seats, appointed for the Senators, and Vcfial
Virgins; for the Emperor Nero  confidering, That the Virgins devotcd
to the Goddefs Cere s,  vvere invited to the Oljmpian  games, made a n
order, That the Veftal Virgins fliould alfo be alloted feats in the Orehi-
ftra,  or moft honourable places of the Amphitheater.

G. G.  are the EtjueJlria,  the middle places, for the Equites Romani^
the Seats appointed for the Roman  Knights, and Gentlemen; and
there vvere Officers on purpofe to plače every one in his due Rank, and
thefe vvere called Dijfignatores^  and Tribuni "joluptatum.

H. H.  are the Popularia,  the Places for the Cpmmon People, for
the ordinary fort of both Sexes, and vvhere the Women fate, whom
their Husbands could not keep at home, and vvho vvould flock in fuch
numbers as to fill the Amphitheaters up to the top, and bring Chairs
and Stools to fet upon the top of ali, and in the Porticds  and Galleries
above.

Venimus ad Jede s, ulipulla fordida veFle
Inter famineas fieclabat turba CatEedras.

L I. I.  are the Vomitoria,  or fquare holes, or entrances, through
vvhich tlie Spečtators čarne pouring in, to take their places for con-
ildering that the Amphitheaters vvere Buildings capable of receiving
vafb numbers of People, (tirat of Tifus  at Rome  being able to contain
fourfcore thoufand perfons conveniently} it vvas neceflary alfo that
the Entrances fhould be numerous, that the fpedators might come in
and out vvithout confufion, in this Amphitheater of Verona  in every
ninth and tenth row of feats, there are rovvs of Vomitoria,  every one
at an equal diftance from one another, eighteen in a row, vvhich make
feventy tvvo diftind en rances,to evcry one of vvhich there is a peculi-
ar Stair-cafe, coming out from vvithin the Arches, vvhich fupport the
Amphitheater; befide ali otherStairs.and Paflages vvithin, and Afcents
from one ftory to another, vvhich alone is enough, to fhovv, that thefe
vvere vaft extraordinary Buildings.

L. L. L.  are the rovvs of Arches vvithin, built round the Amphi*
theater to fupport the Seats and upper Buildings.

M. M.  is the Crenaculam^or  upper Gal!ery,built for the Strength and
ornament of the vvhole, into vvhich they might retire, and vvalk, and
refrefli themfelves. This part is found but in fevv Amphitheaters, and
in thofe only of the larger kind, and there is but little remaining of it
at prefent in this, moft of it being throvvn down by a great Earth-
quake in theyeareleven hundred eighty three,as the Annals  of Verona
declare.

N. N. N.  are the holes left in the building of the outvvard vvall of
the Amphitheater to ftick mafts into, for the better faftning of the
Ropes, Sayls, and Curtains to Iliade the Spedators; for the Romans
not wearing hats with brims when they fate long in thefe open places,
were often injured by the Sun, vvhich forced fome to make ufe of Thef-
filian  Caps and DmbreUd^  till that at length Catullus  brought in
the Mode of ufing Sayl-cloths and Coverings of Linen to ihade
the Seats, vvhich julius Crefar,  according to his fplendid humour,
caufed to be madc of-Silk of various colours, ofTellovp, Red, and

E e  Crimfon,

2 0^

2io ]ourney from  Venice to  Genoa.

Črimfon, and yet was exceeded herein by the Emperor Nero,  who or-
dered his own pičture to be embroidered in thefe coloured Silks, in the
pofture of Apollo  driving the Chariot of the Sun,and round about him
the Starš, and Conftellations in Gold ; and Lucretius  takes notice of
the graceful,beautiful fhades, which thefe coverings made fomevvhat
after this manner.

When purple Coverings, Yellow, or deep Red,

Over the Amphitheater are fpread,

Which mighty Mafts, and fturdy Pillars bear;

And the loofe Curtains wanton in the Air,

Whole Streams of colours from the top mufi flow,
And with diffufed beams ftayn ali bclow.

The more the Curtains fpread, the more the Dye
Rides ore the Silver Air, and courts the Eye.
Rich colours fpread themfelves o’er every thing.
Eacb mans asglorious as a purpleKing.

But the outfide of the Amphitheater of Verona,  was as fplendid
as the infide, though at prefent a Portion of it only remains, as much
as between, 0, and P.  By this fmall part however the vvhole is
eafily known, efpecially in fo uniform a building as this. The outr
fide therefore being ali of marble, about a hundred and twenty
foot high, confifted of three rows of Pillars and Arches , one over
another, which opened into large walks, and fpacious Porticos  vvith-
in,» quite round the Building• and above thefe three rows of Ar¬
ches, there was a handfom vvall with Windows over every Arch, and
Pilafters over every Pillar beneath; each row confifted of feventy two
Arches,and feventy two Pillars of a great height; the upper rovv moreover
is faid to have been adorned with excellent Statues. But the outfide of
the Amphitheater at Nifmes,  being the moft entire of any now ftand-
ing, I have alfo inferted a Cut of it, that nothing might be vvanting to
the clear underftanding of the manner of thefe buildings: and as t! at
at Verona,  hath three rows of Pillars, and a wall above them, this at
ppfmes  hath only two rows of Pillars on the outfide, and the fcats
vvithinfide reach up to the top of it, and it hath no Galleries above.
To fupply this Amphitheater at Ntfmes  with water fufficient to repre-
fent naval fights therein, the great Pont du Gard  was built, which
fupports an Aquredučt pafting from one Mountain to another, a Cut
vvhereof is alfo inferted, it being one of the moft magnificent Roman
Antiquities now ftanding in purope.

Thefe wonderful Stručtures were firft raifed by the Romans,  for the
more convenient exhibiting of Shovvs and Fights to the People ; and
thefe Fights were either between Beafts and Beafts, Men and Beafts, or
between Men and Men. The Fights betvveen Beafts and Beafts are ftill
continued; for the Gentlemen of Verona  take that čare of this Ancient
Venerable Building, that there is not at prefent one Stone vvanting of
ali the Seats within; and vvhen they would fee any ftrange hunting,
fighting,or baiting o. Beafts, they prefently enter their own old Amphi¬
theater, where at this time, three or four and twenty thoufand Per-
fons may fit and fee diftinčtly every Ačtion, and pafs away part of the
day in pleafure and delight.

But



Mlini 1 '




cagues. o F ^A r i/nicj in Lan^uedoc.a

-*** v

--r-—-~~—

A fournej from  Vemce to  Gcrioa. ....... 211

But thefe Sports were purfued vvith much more eagernefs in the
time of the old Romans,  who brought ftrange Beafts from ali Parts of
the known World to fight before them, in thefe publick places; in con-
fideration vvhereof, upon the fuccefsful Atchievements of Syllain Afri-
ca.  the People of Rome  were not fo much pleafed with his making their
inveterate Enemy King Jugurtha  hisPrifoner, as they were infinitely
delighted vvith the thoughts of the great familiarity, that Sylla  had
with Bocchus,  King of bcetulia,  whereby they hoped, that he might
obtain moli ftrange unheard of Afričan  Monfters of Beafts, to be
ihewn in their Amphitheaters ; and Rbmpep  the Great moft wonderfully
gratified the inclinations of hisfellovv Citizens, when he firft brought
a great Rhinoceros  to Rome  ; After him Auguftia Cafar  brought another,
and follovving Emperors the like. This Beaft,as it is reported.performed
ftrange things there ,• and when irritated, vvould with his great ftrong
Horn, prefently throvv up ali other combatant Beafts to the Skies, and
a Buli could not tofs upa Bali higher than he would tofsup Bullsand
Bears together.

grauem gemino cornu fic extulit Wrfam,

J alt at ut impofitas Taurua in afira pilas. Martla!,

And again;

O quam terrililes exarfit pronns in ir as !

Ouantus er at Corku, cui pila Taurus er at J

The Fights between Men and Beafts vvere more unegual for the moft
part performed by Sla ves, Captives, and Condemned Perfons, yet
fome of good quality have alfo polluted themfelves with thefe Brutilh
Sports, and acguired the true title of Beftiarij.  That which happened
to Androdus  a Dacian,wpon  this occafion is vvellknovvn now, butvvas
furprizing at firft, who ftanding ready in the Arena,  and’havinga
Lyon let out upon him, received no hurt; for the Lyon came gently
to him, carefled and favvned upon him, and he likevvifc ftroaked and
made much of the Lyon; and after the loud ihouts of the People, be¬
ing asked how this came to pafs, he let them know, That being with
his Mafter in A fr/ca,to  get rid of his hard fervice,he had fled into a Ca ve
vvhither this Lyon came vvith a Splinter in his Foot, and held up his’
wounded Pavv to him to cure; vvhich having performed and free’d his
Foot from the fplinter and healed it, the Lyonkept him,and provided
meat for him threeyears, and vtfhen hfccame away the Lyon followed
him fo far, that he vvas alfo taken and brought to Rome,  and that by the
further cruelty of his old Mafter he vvas novv condemned to the Beafts
vvhere thcy found him; vvhereupon his liberty Was granted him, and
tnc Lyon given him for his pains, with vvhich he aftervvards got his li-
ving every one being defirous to fee the Lyon that vvas the mans Hoft,
and the man that vvas the Lyons Surgeon.

The Fights betvveen Men and Men, vvere of divers kinds, for thev
fometimes fought on Horfe-back,as the Andabatce,  fometimes ih Cha-
riots, as the Effedarij,  afid fometimes in Ships and Vefiels, and this ei-
ther in the Amphitheaters, (the Arena beingfilled with tvater) or
in a Building made on purpofe, called a Naumachia  or in artificial

E e x  Ponds,

2i2 d Journey from  Venice to  Genoa.

Ponds, and cutsoutof Rivers; and the Emperor Claudius  exhibited a
Naval Fight upon the Fuclne  Lake,the Logo di Celano,ov lacus Fucinus,^
days Journey from Rome,  vvhere at his firit appearance both Flcets falu-
ted him with an Ave, Ccefar, morituri te falutant.

But the greateft number of their Fights was performed by G ledini or s
Retiarius.  on foot, of which there were alfo divers forts; as firft, the Retiarius,
who was armed with a Trident in one hand, and held a Net in the
other, with which he entangled.and caught his Enemy ; or othervvife,
if he mified of his foe, he then fled fwiftly away;

Tota fugit agnofcendus arena.

Through ali the Amphitheater he flies

Like lightning through the Azureskies.

Untilfuch time as he could gather up his Net again & preparc for ano-
ther encounter.The whole habit and way of fight is exačtiy dcfcribed by
Juvnal,  in the eighth Satyr,where he reprehends a noble Roman,one  of
the greatFamily ofthe Gracchi,£or  taking upon himfelf this kind of gla*
diatura.lt  was thought to be brought in faihion firft,in imitation of Pit-
tac us,one  ofthe wife Men ofGreco?,who being challenged by Phryno,caxno
into the field like a fiflterman, and involving his Enemy in his Net,flew
him with his Trident and Dagger; but fome were delighted to fee
thefe Gladiators flayn, fbr being that they fought u ithout Armour,
only in a fliort coat and bare-faced, they might the better take no¬
tice of the laft Motions of their Limbs, and the Alterations of their co-
l° ur Ji neaments  and features in their dyingagonies: And I have feen the
prefcrved in Statue ofa dying Gladiator in Luduvijus  Gardens at Rome, fo  well re-
Rome.  prefented, and lo exquifitely carved that it may compare with the Fi-
gures of the moft famous Statuaries in any age ; fince  it is thought
meet to be numbred in the firft tank with the works of Phydias,  and
Praxiteles,  and is not lefs efteemed than the wonderful Statue of Py-
ramus  in the farne gardens, nor Farnefes Hercules  made by Glycon  the
famous Greek,  nor theold PEgjptian Terme-,  Nay the beautiful ftatues
of Antinous,  and Apollo Pjthian,  in Beluedere,  the garden to the Va-
tican,  are not at this day more to be admired. Nor the rare Figure
of Fenus  her felfin Medici s  Palače; nay furthermore the Grecian  Sta¬
tue of Peace, and the Greek Shepherdefs  that holds up her garments, to
lhow her due proportions, are no ways alhamed to be ranked with him,
who by good Artifts is held in the farne efteem with Farnefe’s  buli,
and the never to be out-done Laocoon  and his Sons, the joynt work
of the rare ancient Mafters, Agefander, Polydore,  and Athenodorus.
This whole order of the Retiarij  was devoted to Teptane,and  generally
fought againft a party, who were followers of Tulcan,  fire and water
not being like to agree. Thefe were called Secutore.

j tnenal  Cum Graccho juflus pugnare Secutor.  , j

. . .. <7 .noM ‘

Secutor.  The Secutor  was guarded with a Shield, which he carried high, to
hinder his head from being catched in the Net, and with a Spear or
longSword.

Altius

A Journej from  Venicc to  Genoa. 215

Altius imprejfo dum palpitat enfe Secutor. p d

Thefe fought, and follovved after the Retiarii,  and other Gladiators,
with fiercenefs and courage,and were favoured by divers Emperors,who
hkcd this way of fighting; and when five Retiarij  had yielded to five
Secutores,  and thrown down their weapons, the Emperor Caligula,com-
manded the Secutores  to kili them ; which they did to the laft man,
who becoming defperate took up his fork again, and flew ali the five
conguering/m^r«, and this Jofs of hisdear fricnds was bemoaned by
the Emperor in a publick Edičh, with the exclufion of thofe who en-
dured to fee it, from being prefent, for the future at any facred rite.
But the Emperor Commodus  not only encouraged thefe Gladiators, but
took their parts in his own perfon alfo, and fought along with them
in the Areta;  and when the flattering Romans  cryed him up for a
Hercules,  a Mars,  and fhouted out that he fought like a God of war,
he thought that they mocked.and laughcd at him,and immediately cal-
led to his marine Legion, that were tending the Ropes and Sayl cloths,
come down, and kili the Spedators.

Another order of Gladiators imitated the Thracians  in their fights,
and bearing a fmall P ar mula,  or little plain Thracian  lhield,but trufting
chiefly to their broad ftrong Šwords with their points turning upward,
like the prefent Turkifb,or Perfian  CimitarS.They were called Threces, Threces.
or Thraces, and were terrible flafhing, Cutting Swords-players, and de-
rived this cuftom, manner, and occafion of fight, from the old Thra¬
cians ;  even before the time of Herodotus,  when they fought with the
farne weapons for prizes and rewards at the funcral, and tombš of
their great men in Thrace  ; and thefe Fencers fought eithcr againft one
another. or againft other Gladiators.

A Myrmillo  was a notable Sword-player and fought after the Gal- MpmMmes.
lick  way, dopping, and fquatting low and frisking about, and covering
himfelf with his great oval fhield, and had his head armed with a
ftrong Helmet, upon the Creft of which was the Figure of a Fifli;
and when his Enemy lay bare, or gave any occafion of a thruft, he
would leapup briskly of a fudden, and run him through and through
with his fharp pointed Sword. Who could contraft with fuch a cun-
ning, ftrong, and ačfive combatant ?

Quis Myrmilloni componitur ce^uimanus ? Tt:rax.

The Thracian  fighter would often engage with him, and the Retia-
rius  many a time,and would come up to him with his Net in his hand,
finging this;

Non te peto, pifcem peto,

_ Quid me fugi s, Galle i*

Another fort of Gladiators were named Samnites,  whofe armour is
defcribed by L'ray.  Their fhields were inlayed, engraven,and imbof-
fed with Silver, and with Gold : One end of their fhield, with which
they guarded their breaft,was fiat,broad, ftreight, and even ; the other
end next their fhoulder, was narrower, that it might be turned and
moved

214

Dimachdiri.

Laq«earij.

AferidiAni.

Statiur.

tffrtdot!.

A Journey from  Venice to  Genoa.

moved with more eafe; befides which, they had a long ftrong Svvord,
a Breaft-plate, a Helmet with Feathers upon the Creit, and a Boot
upon their left leg.Thefe Gladiators were in great requeft in Čampama,
from whence the Romans  learned many of their Amphitheatrical fports,
and exercifes; and they fought againft the Pihnirapi,  and the Prouo-
catores.

Befides thefe, there were others called Dimachairi  who fought with
two Svvords, and others named La([uearii y thefe were dangerous fellows
that fought with Sword and Halter, and had two ways with them to
entangle, and deftroy their Enemies.

The Meridiani  were a bold defperate Crew, who came rufhing into
the Amphitheater at Noon, when the Gladiators  had concludedT and
the Spcčhtors were difmifled, and with their drawn Swords ran at one
another without Order, Art, or Armour, and feorning to make ufe of
Head-pieces, Shields, and fuch like Hindrances and Delays of Death,
butchered one another prefently.

But that which is ftill more ftrange, the tender Female Sex was not
cxemptcd from thefe fharp, rude exercifes.

Elos intkr fremiltts hovofif lufus
Stat Sekus rud is itifciiife ferri,
Et pugnas capit improbus viriles.

Theypicked out the moft beautiful, comely,Iovely young Women
that could be found, and put them to School to a Limfa,  or Mafter of
Defence, to be inftručted in the Art of Fighting; where a tender
young Gentlewoman that had fcarce ftrength enough to exercife at a
carVing School, muft be fencing every Morning with a great Fellow,
and be fet fuch rude Leflbns as thefe :

None of your fhifting Gallick  play,

Great Caf ar  likes the Samnite

Come clofe, ftrike home, and you’ll one day
Bear your Foes life and Farne away.

And if you mifs of Vičtory,
In graceful pofthres learh to dye.

For thofe who were put to a Lanifta  in the moft fevere way, were
bound to be burnt, whipped, and fall by the Sword.

Igiie liri, virgis cadi, ferrotp, hecari.

Now to fee one of thefe fine young Women fight, well drefied, with
her golden Shield, and hcr fair Plume of Feathers, the Emperor him-
felf could not forbear commending, and crying out fometimes, Well
played fair Lady; or as Xerxes  faid when he beheld from a high Hill
the Sea-fight at S alarm s, and Artemifia  had funk one of his
6wn Šhips inftead of one of the Enemies, well fought Queen Artemifia y
my Wofrien fight like Men,and my Men like Wemcn.Howevcrwe have
very gobd Authority to aflure us that the Wbmen fought ftoutly.

To

A Journey from  Venicc to  Gcnoa.

Š15

To fee ere of thofe fpruce Dames Iay it on

Like any right bred raging Amazon,

You’d think your felf near to Herce Tb er mod on.

Credas ad Fanaim jerttmcp, Pbafim

Therniodontiacas calere tv.rbas. Stat.

And that they generally fought after the manner bf the Samnites
we may learn from Juvenal y  where he takes notice, what a fine Cre-
dit it would be for a man to cry out at a publick Šale of his Wives
Goods; who gives moft for my Wives Boots ? who bids Money for
her Corfelet, Helmet, GaUhtlets ?

Quale decus y  rerum fi conjugis auPlio fiat,

BaltheusfiS Manica y  & Crifia? y  Crurifif, fini širi

Dimidium tegmen ?

But Domitian  the Emperor went ftill beyond this, when he fet his
Gladiators together in the night, and made his Dwarfs fight, thofe lit-
tle Pjgmaan  Creatures: But we need fay no more of them, for it may
be thought by fome that

U hether they flew, or whether they were flaln
They’d both make but one Morfel for a Crane.

And indeed it is high time to leave this omnium Dremonum templum,
as Tertullian  calls it altogether, and pafs forward to more pleafing
obječts. Parting therefore from Ferona  in the Morning, we travelled
through a delightful plain Country 14 Miles, and came early in the
Afternoon to Mantua.

Mantua  is pleafant!y feated in a Lake like to the Defcription of the mmom,
fituation of the great City Mexico.  This ;Lake of aboiit five Miles
Jong, is made by the opening of the River Mincius,  or Mentzo  a de¬
lightful ftream, which runs flowly, fpreads it felf wide, and bears its
name high amoogft the noted Floods of this Region.

Frondentibus humida ripis

Colla levant p'deber FicinusfiŠ Addua vifu

Carulus y  velox Atbefis y  tardujfi me atu

MineiUt. Mnciuts

And again j

Folucres quas excipit amne quieto

Mineius.

This River runs into the P Oy  and rifes out of the Lacus Benacus,  and
is Ib full of Reeds in many places, efpecially near Mantua y  that I can-
not omit Fir&Ps  proper elegant way of mentioning his own Country
Rivers.

H in a

2i 6 A Journey from  Venice to  Gcnoa.

Hinc quoque quingentos in fe Mezentlus armat,
Quos patre Benaco velatus arundine glauca
Mincius infefta ducebat in tzquora pinu.

The entrances into Mantua  over the lake are made good by ftrong
Caufeys, of five or fix hundred paces long, having Draw-bridges at
each end ; and that over which we paffed, called Ponte di St. Gtorgio,
hath a covered Bridge for a great fpacc together,and a Tower in the
middle. The Ponte de Molini  hath twelve Mills in the Arches, called
the twelve Apoftles, which aflbrd the Duke a confiderable Reve-
nue. The Streets are large, ftrait, and clean. Here are eight Gates,
eighteen Parifhes, and forty Monafteries. The Domo  or Cathedral is
built after the defign of Giulio Romano,  theRoofof which is painted
with Azure and Gold ; in this Church they preferve the Body of St.
Anfe Im,  Bifhop of Luca  ; in the Church of St. Andrewjs  the Body of
St. Longinus  the Martyr, together with fome drops of the Blood of
our Saviour, vvhich are faid to be brought hither by thatholy man.
The Duke’s Palače is ffately and magnificent, and was the beft furnifh-
ed of any in Italy,  till the Imperial Army plundered it, in the time of
the Empercr Ferdinand the Second ; in the year 1630. There are three
Suburbs vvhich appear like to fo many dillinčt littlc Towns, Porto
Forteze, Borgo di St. Giorgio,  and II Te.  The Duke hath alfo divers
Country Houfes,as that of Marmirola,  in the way to Verona,  vvhich is
nobly furnilhed, hath Royal Apartments, good Gardens, Fcuntains,
and Water-works. La Favorita  is upon the fide of the Lake, and hath
about ahundred Rooms in it. La P irgi liana  is another pleafant Coun-
try Houfe with a Farm adjoyning to it, called thus, by reafon that it is
near to the Vilhge of Petola,  formerly called Andes  where Virgil  was
born. '

■Manina Mafarum domus, atque ad fidera cantu

Andino evettns.

Manina  the Mufes dwelling ali along,

But rais’d up to the Starš by th’ Andine  fong.

The Palazzo del Te,  at no great diflance from one of the gates of
the City, is well worth the feeing, vvhere the hali is painted vvith the
hiftory of the Gyants ftorming of heaven,and fo artificially roofed,and
vaulted, that it makes a double vvhifpering plače, where, at the oppo-
fite corners of the room, every little fight and vvhifpering is diftindly
heard, and in no other plače; and he that flands betvveen hears no-
thing of it. I had formerly been in whifpering places at Padoa, Mont¬
pellier,  and elfevvherc; but thofe were fingle ones, made by the contri-
vance of the roof,upon this rule,That the Angle of Incidence,is always
equal to the Angle of Reflečtion, and the vvhole top of the room fo
proportioned as to reflečt ali to one point, that comes from another
oppofite to it ; but thefe far exceed them ali, being contrived vvith a
double and crofs Arch, and make a large double crofs vvhifpering
plače.

Threefcore

. --iwrMfl|NiwwMi l inai rMMMMMfbit .irtMiMnaiifflBi i»iTiWTWii iMihiaa »Mi । ,.,

4 Journey from  Venice to  Genoa. 217

Threefcore years before the Trojan  war £rčWt?i,and Polynices,fox\s  to
Oedipus,  King of Thebes,  contending for the Soveraignty,that City was
invaded,befieged,and ruined by the Greeks,when the great The-
lan  Sorcerefs,feeing that her Country was deftroyed,fled firft into Ajia,
where Ihe built a Temple,and dedicated it to Apotlo,  then fayled into I~
taly,awd  went to Tyberinus,  King of the Tufcans^sj  whom fhe had a Son
named Ocnas,who afterwardspafied the Apennines,& the Po, &  built this
City,and called it after his Mothers name,according to theMantuan  Poet.

Ule etiam patriis agmen ciet Ocnus ab oris,
Fatidicte Mantbus et Tufci filius amnis,
Qui mo.ro s matrif^ue ded it, ti bi Mantua nomen.

The Galli  č>»ow<w,afterwards beat out the Tujcans,  and made Reto
fly  into that part of the mountains fince called the Rhetian Alpes.  The
Romans  overthrew the Gauls,  and Mantua  followed the various Fortune
of the Weftern Empire till the Emperour Otbo,  the fecond ,
gave it to Tedaldo,  Count of Canoffa. Boniface  fucceeded, and Beatrix
his Countefs; then the Countefs, Mathildis,  who made great wars
in Italy,  fided with the Pope againft the Emperor, and left
large pofleflions, and revenues to the Church. The Family of the
Bonacolfi;  in procefs of time,obtiined the Lordfhip of this City,Pajfavi-
no  the laft of that ftock was flain in the market plače by the people
in the year 1318 under the command of Lodovico dl Gonzaga,  the
firft Lord of Mantua  of this Family that reigns at prefent. Frederick,
the fecond of this line, was made Duke of Mantua,  by Charles  the
fifth, and Vincent  the firft was afterwards created Duke of Montfer-
rat.  The prefent Duke is Carolus Ferdinandu^ G on žaga,  Duke of
Mantua,  and Montferrat,  and of Niveronis,  and Retelois  in France,  per-
petualPrince and Vičar of the holy Empire, Marquefs ofGonzaga, Vlada¬
na, Gazelo,and Dozolo,  Count of Rodigajhord  of Luzar a,  and chief of the
order of the Knights of the Blood of Chrift, which order was infiituted
in the year 1608, by Vincent,  Duke of Mantua,  who had been three
times in Hunyary, Aujl r ia,and Croatia,  in the wars againft the Turks.

From Mantua  we travelled to the great River Er id anus, Padus, EridMUi>
or the To,Which arifes from mount Vifo, or Mons Vefulus,Que  of the high-
eft mountains of the Alpes  towards France,  and rowling down in di-
vers branches at firft, without any fixed channel unites at the foot of
the mountain, and falls under ground, and after a mile or two appears a-
gain, and running with afwiftcourfethrough Lombar dy, after it hathre-
ceived thirty Rivers more which fall from the Alpes & Apennine ,difchar-
ges it felf by diversmouths into the Adriatic k  fea, and this being by far
the greateft River in Italy,  it is mightily magnified by the Latin  Poets
tvho would have it no lefs than the Nile,  and the Danube,  and mention
it by the name of the King of Rivers,and the greateft in the world. And
it muft be confefled,that it is a noble flood, and that it is the onlyRiver
that hath a plače in Heaven : or that hath the glory to be made a con-
ftellation, and placed in the Ghambers of the South, near to the ftormy,
tempeftuous Orion ;  andfince that it is adorned vvith thirty eight ftars,
which ftiine vifibly in the Firmament, to be called Starry’and Celeftial,
are but its due Terms of honour: but fure there are many Rivers upon
earth in Europe, Afia, Africa,  and America  that far exceed it.

The Po  being very fwift we pafied it by boat, not without fome

F f pecu-


218 A Journej from  Venice to  Gcnoa.

peculiar Contrivances, and Engines, and the kind afliftance the
fifters of Phaeton,  who mourn here for the difmal fall of their Bro-
ther, when Jupiter  ftruck him down from Heaven into the Po,

Excipit Efidanus fumantiaque alluit or a.

Efidarius  did his Limbs imbrace

And wafli 1 d his fmoaking Sun-burnt face.

And having ftood fo long by thebanks of this River,they may be
thottgh to be more converfant with its Courfe and Paflages. They tye
ropes in this Country to the tops of high Poplars, one end on one fide
of the River, and the other on the other, or build high Beacons, or
Poftslike thofe made ufe of in the Strapado-,  on each fide of the River:
and upon a line fixed to them, they put a running Pully, to which
they fix another long rope, and to the further end of this rope
the boat is tyed, and by fteering the head of the boat obliquely crofs
the River, the force of the Stream makes the pully run from one fide
to another; by which means we pafled it without labour or trou-
ble.

Ovid, Sine Remigis ittu

Concava TrajeElo Cjmba. rudente nehit.

A rope drawn through a Pully foon convey’d
Us crofs the Po,  vvithout the Rowers aid :
And a fmall boat, without broad fayls and oars,
Did gently waft us to the neighbouring fhores.

I had formerly pafled the 7’p, as high as Turin , and at another
time went by boat through a cut made out of the Po  into the A-
thefit,  and once I travelled forfome fpace together on horfe-back at
the bottom of a branch of this River, where the banks being broken
down it had forfaken its channel-

Guaflala,  The next town  wc came to was Guaflala,  belonging to a Soveraign
Prince, the Duke of Guaflala ;  a handfom fmall Town at prefent, but
formerly larger, and more confiderable when there were two General
Councils held here, one under Pope Vrban  the fecond, and another un-
der Pope Pafcal  the fecond.

Brefceib.  From Guaflala  we travelled by Gualtea,  to Brefcello  or Brixellum,  a
compačt clofe flrong Town, fortified after the modern way, upon the
fide of the Po-.  An old Roman  plače ofhabitation, wherethe Emperor
Oiko  ftaid in his journev againft Titellius,  when after the confličt at
Labinta,  then called Bebriacum,  he took a refolution of difpatching
himfelf, not out of any defpair of overcoming ali difficulties, but
rather out of his modefty, as Suetonius  relates it, and unwilling-
nefs to feize upon, and continue fo great an Empire, with the ha¬
zard of fo many brave mens lives that ferved him, and therefore
early in the morning after a draught of cold Water he ftabbed him¬
felf with a dagger under the left Pap,inthe ninety fifth day of hi$ reign,
and the thirty eight year of his life. This town hath at prefent about
three or four thoufand Inhabitants, and a good Garrifon belonging to
the Duke of Medena,  it being near to the (late of Milan, Mantua,  and
Parma.  The Spanifh  Troops, under the command of the Matquifc  of

Carracena,

A Journe^  from  Vcnicc  to  Genoa


Carracena,  attempted to furprize it in the year, i6yj, but vvere ref ul-
fed by the Duke o Modends  forces. Having pafled Brifcello  vve crof-
fed the River Nicia,  novv Lenza,  and fbon came to Parma.

The Dukedom of Parma,  is guarded by the Apennine  mountains andf.«^,
divers Rivers,and is a very fruitful Country,affbrding plcnty pfexčellent
vvines.and fome good Mufcatelli.faMsof  various forts,rich paftures plen-
tyof Cattel.the beft Cheefein ZtaZp.great flore ofCheflnuts,and Tartufa-
li Truffes, Tulera terra,  Rcots vvithout Stems, or Plants grovving
from them, vvhich they hunt after vvith a pig vvhich fmells them. out,
and difcovers where they are ; thefe are agreat difh in 7/^and though
they feem to have no grčat nourilhment in them are efteemed to be
prGvocative. And befldes thefe, this Country aflords fome mineš
of Copper and Silver, and very'fine Wool,

Vellerllus primis Apulia, Parma fecundis
JAobilis.

The City of Parma  is very ancient, inhabited long flnce by the Fuf-
cans,  then by the Boli,  next by the Romans ;  a Colony being fent hi-
ther from Rome  about a hundred and eighty two years before the
coming of our Sa\ iour ; and another in the time of Augujlus CcefarBut
upon the deciining of the Roman  Empire it ran through divers fortunes,
ferved fometimes Fenice,  and fometimes Milan,  till it was conquered
by Pope Julius,  the fecond, and given by Paul  the third to his Son
Petro Luigi Farnefe,  about a hundred and thirty five years flnce, in
vvhofe Family it ftill continues.

It is a Delightful, Airy, vvell feated City, the Houfes being lovv,
the Streets broad, and the River Parma  running betvveen the City
and the Suburbs, both of vvhich are vvell fortified vvith good Baflions
and a broad Ditch. It hath three handfom bridges over the River.
The Dukes Palače isfplendid, his Coaches extremely rich, his Gar-
dens worth the feeing vvith the Grottds,  Fountains, Water-works, and
Bovvs of Orange Trees. The lodgings are furnilhed vvith exccllent
pičtures, vefiels of Porphyry, A gath, and Jafpis.

The Cathedral is fair and ftatcly; In the Capucines  Church is the
tomb of Alexander Farnefe&Ase.  of Parma,  one of the greateft com-
manders of his time, and of his Dutchefs Maria  of Portugal.  The
Church of St. John  is large, and beautiful, and adorned vvith the
paintings of thofe great Maflers, Corregio,  and Parmegiano,  and the Be-
nediEtin  Convent adjoyning is one of the largefl and faireft of the or-
der. This City vvas formerly befieged for tvvo y@ars together by the
Emperor Frederick Barbaroma,  vvho in hopes to make himfelf Mafler
of it built another Tovvn ncar to it called Ficloria,  but thofe of Par¬
ma  behaved themfelves fo floutly,that they freed themfelves, and rui-
ned his nevv Tovvn of FiEtorp.

From Parma  vve went to For nov o  ten miles from thence, feated Fornava,
upon the fvvift River Taro,  and reodred remarkable by the battel gain-
ed here by Charles  the eight, King of France,  againft the confederate
Princes oiltaly  in the year 1494 in hisreturn from the congueft of Nh-
pies.The  River Taro  is a remarkable River,vvhich runs and plays about
the plains, before it falls into the Po,  and is very fvvift, although it
be not flreighgbut notably vvinding and turning. At firfl fight I con-

Ffj

ječtured

220 dl  Journey  from  Veniee to  Genoa.

ječtured that itwould prove a troublefome River, when it vvasfhut up
between the Hills: and fo we fbund it ; for as foon as we had left
the open fpacious plain Country in which we had travelled with plea-
fure from Padoa  hither, and had gor in between the fpurs bf the A-
pennine,  and entered the Val di Taro,  the valley in vvhich this River
runs, we were forced to travel many times inconveniently upon the
fides of the hills, on the right hand, and on the- left; and furthermore
to crofs the River it felf above forty times, and in one paflage, one
Gentlemans Mule fell down with him in the middle of the River ,
but after we ca me paft Borgo di Valle  the River was lefs, and \\ e
turred more to the right hand, and climbed up the Apennine  Moun-
tains.

di Val- Borgo,  or Borgo di Valle  is a wai!ed Town at the upper end of this
le ' valley, upon the fide of the hills, where we fhew our bills of health,
and where the Duke cd Parma  keeps-a Garrifon. The Banditi  appear-
ing in thefe parts the day before, the Governor fent a guardof Muh
queteers with us to convoy us with fafety over the hills into the State of
Genoa.

The a  The ‘‘ty ent, i ne  ’ s a row  Mountains of many hundred miles long,
Mountam”. W ” ?  beginning at-the Alpes,  continued from one end of Italy  to the other,
and ending by Reggio,  or Rhegium  upon the Sicilian  Sea, and in fome
places are more tban a hundred miles broad, and by this means take
up the greateft part of Italy,  and render it a Mountainous Country,
and though there be many valleys bitween, yet the hills do really
reach, and extend themfelves from the Tyrrhene  to the Adriatic k,
from the lower to dre upper fea, conformable to the defcription of them
by Lučan.

Hinc Tyrrhena cjado frangentes tetpuora Pifat,
Illinc Dalmaticis olnoxia JiuBihus Ancon.

And this makes the travelling in Italy  to be generally on Horfe-
back, or upon Mules ; whereas in France  one may travel five hun¬
dred miles together in Coaches, and in Germany  ali over the Coun-
try; and if it were not for Campania fcelix,  and the great continued
plain Country betvveen the Alpes  and Apennine, halj  could never
make good the high Charačter it has.

Ovid  mentions the Airy Alpes,  and cloudy Apennine,  and moft
Mountains have clouds about them and in the evening the Clouds,
floating in the Air after Sun fet flip away towards the next high hills,
and take up their reft in the hollow fpaces of the Mountains, and
when the Sun rifes next day, and warms the Air, the clouds dif-
lodge again, rife up,and wander through the Skies; but the Apenni-
nes  are more cloudy generally than other hills, vvhether for having
the Seas on both fides of them, or for other reafons, I leave to the
more accurate fearchers into nature to judge, and we have travelled
for many days together in the Countries of the Apennine  Mountains
with the Clouds continually about us, either a little over us, under us,
or paffmg through them, not vvithout admirable variety of profpečt
and from the top of a Mountain to fee a valley with Houfes, and
Towns in it, and then the clouds creeping over the next hill toco-
ver

A  Joume>y  fronz.  Vcnice ta  Genoa. 221

-■Vertte 'vdbole vallev .betvveen them, and make it look likč a lake,
■and the'top of the dlouds gently waving, and to. d'efcribe the Suns,
rifing, and coming to fliine upon tfte upper parts of them, and to beau-
■tifle. and :gild them ali, js beyond tile expreflion .ofi words. ; '; fr:.

Vifpfil namrtng the ■ -Ap&iniines,  ranks them vvith Mount Erix
and Mount Athos  in Greece. - : y

Great as Mount Athos.  or high Erix  crown’d

With thofe grcen Oakes, vvhofe Ihaking boughs refound,
Or Father Apennine,veho  loves to rife

And lift his Snovvy head up to the Skies.

And indeed many of the Peaks of the Apennines  are very high, and
fome of them covered vvith fnow ; and others are rocky, but in gene¬
ral they are earthy, muddy, or full of clay ; whereby they ftain and
tinčlure the Ttber  and many other Rivers vvhich flovv through them,
and give an umber, brovvn, or dirty yellow colour to thofe ftreams,
which being alfo for the moli part very fvvift, the Apennine  Rivers
hereby lofe much of their grace and beauty, and become alfo lefs
ferviceable ; and to fpeak the truth, not navigable vvith any pleafure :
And this tinčlure vvhich is communicated to them is of fo deep
a Dve in manv places, that it is nor eaiily altered or diluted, and I have
feen divers Rivers run down from theApennie  vvith that force into
the Adriatick,  that the ffream or colour of them is perfečtly diftiri-
guilhed a mile or tvvo into the Sea, as if the Gulf of Venice  vvere
painted in thofe places vvith a ftreight yellow Uroke for tvvo miles
together.

We vvere told that the name of the hill vvhich vve here pafled o-
ypr vvas called, The Mountain of the Holy Crojs,  but the Mountain of
'the Grofe, La montagne de la croix,  much fpoken of in the South part
of France  is one of the great Hills in the maritime Alpes,  in one of
the paflages from Provence  into Itab).  The higheft Mountain in the
Apennine  that .1 pafled over, betvveen Rome,  and Loretto,  vvas Mount
Soma  in Vmbda  5 and the paflage vvhich pleafed me moft, vvas in the
road from Turin,  betvveen Otagio  and Genoa ;  vvhere after fome difli-
culty having got up to the top of the Mountains,vve favv Genoa,  and the
beautiful fuburbs of St. Pietro di Arena  under us at nine miles di-
flance, and a vaft trači of Sea before us, the Eaftern Coaft on the left
hand,and the Weftern on the right, and defcended by a broad way,
and by large Windings and Turnings, upon the bare marble rock,
meeting great numbers of Mules, and Mulets tofllng up their Nets
•about their nofes, vvhich ali together aflbrded an eX'traordinary pro-
fpečt. But this Mountain of the Holy Crofs is not rocky but ali
green, and it being the latter cnd of April  vve defcended vvith eale
and pleafure, and a good part of the way upon the grafs, till vve came
to the Sea-fide in the Evening, to Sejlri  or Sestro  called by Daute
in his Purgatory , Sifteri,  formerly Segefta,  at prefent Sefiri di
Levante,  to diftinguiih it from Sejlri di ponente,  betvveen Genoa  and
Savana : for the vvhole Coaft of Genoa  being divided into the Eaft
and the Weft, that vvhich lyes betvveen Genoa  and Legorn  is called
La Riviera di Levante,  and that betvveen Genoa,  and Provence, La
Riviera di Ponente.

We

222 A Journey from  Venice to  Genoa.

We hired a Felluca  , at Seflri,  and with the help of our Sayl
and Oars, had a quick paflage , Croffing firft Porto Fin,  and
then keeplng ali along within half a mile of the Shoar, we en-
tered the noted Port of Genoa,  between tbc new Mole, on the right
hand, and the old Mole, and Fanale  or watch tower on the left,
and went on Ihoar not far from the foot of the new Mole.

A Table.

c.

B.

D

Buda

Buffalos
Bulgarian  habit.

172

14

i8i

2,®9
a©6

95

33

116

196

196

108

220

IJO
200

10

I46

2

41

29

181

41

62

88

100

78

57

30

116

11;

67

160

33

x6z

79

88

9

14

162

Anubius ’

Darmlladt
Delta.,  a n Hungarian
Delfi

Dejpoina  of Servia
Dotis

Dort

Drefden

C Admia,  or CalmeJ
Camaldulenfes

Carolus Clufius

Carrarefi

Cafa Nova,  a Baron

A Chappel  in Au,
Edvvard  the firft

Charles  the great

Chermef-berrj

Chremnitz

Cinnabar

Circumcifion

Clagenfurt  or Claudi a

Clefch

Cliffura  a ihining mountain

Coblentz

Colen

Copper Mineš

Corneuburg

Coffova

Cottenberg  in Bohemia

Crainburg

Creivaldt

Croivn  of Hungarj

Curafe,  a brook

Czaflaiv

A Dlerfhelme

Adom

Aken  or Aix la Cbapelle

Altdorff

Amphitheater  at Nifmei

Amphitheater  at Ner on a

Amfterdam

Amurah  the firft flain

Andernach

Antenors  Tomb

St. Antonio^  Church

Antvoerp

Apennine  mountains

Arnols

Athefis

Attila  King of the Hunnes

Augujius Ca?far s  Jewel

184
151
94
197

44
luflria  built by King
firft 7y

1  ' ♦ • M K •

r -

IZO

Mače 1 z

T

; 9*

18

19

106

166
Dunkirck

I

A TABLE.

F1NIS.

i

A


Catalogue of [orne Books printed for  BENJAMIN
T O O K E at the  Ship in St.  Paul’i Church-j/ard.

FOLZO.

Erodoti Hallearnajjai Hiftoria-
r.um Libri  9. Gr. Lat-

Francija Suar.ez. Trači at us de Legibits,
ac Deo Legijlatpre.

The Works of the moft Reverend
Father in God, John Bramball D. D.
late Lord Arch-Bilhop of Armagh,
Primate and Metropolitan of ali
Ireland.  Vi/ith his Life.

IVatJhh  Hiftory of the Irijh  Remon-
ftrance.

A Colkčtion of ali the Statutes now
in force in the Kingdom of Ireland.

§Ir Richard Baker s  Chronicle of the
Kings of England.

Eilhop Sander (on  s Sermons.

Sir Hum. IVjncTs  Book of Entries.

Skinneri Etymologicon Lingua Aaglicana.

M. T. Ciceronis Opera omnia, cum de-
cem Ldijibus.  2. Kol.

HeylynJ.  Cofmography, in 4. Books.
Matth. Pariš Hiftoria Anglia.

Dr. Nalfan\  Impartial Collečtions
from the beginning of the late Re-
belliop to the murther of K. Charles
the I. 2. Kol.

Heraclitus Ridens,  or a Dialogue be-
tween jeft and Earneft concerning
the tiraes, compleat or any of them
fingle.

A R BO.

S Eparation of Churches from Epif-
copal Government, as praftifed
by the prefent Np.nconformifts ,
Schifmatical.By Henry Dodvoel M. A.

Dumoul™ s Vindication of the Prote-
ftant Religion.

Phocena,  or the Anatomy of a Porpefs
diflečted at Gre/^^-College.

The Trne Widow,a Comedy. By Tho.
Shadv>el.

TheBeauty ofUnity, in a Sermon
preached at Preftonbj Rich. VKroe
B. D.  Chaplain to the Lord Bilhop of

The Vanity of the Diflenters Plea for
their Separation. A Scnnon preach¬
ed before the King at Windfor. By
Rob. Chreighton  D. D.

Of Perjury, a Sermon preached at the
Aflizes at Chefter..  By John Allen
M. A.  Fellovv of Trinity College
in Cambridge,  and Chaplain to the
Lord Biflrop of Chefter.

A Sermon preached before the Hon.

Houfe of Commons, Nov.  5. 168 Oo
By Henry Dove  D. D. Chaplain in
ordinary to his Majefty.

A Sermon preached before the Lord
Mayor of the City of London  on the
Feaft of St. Michael.  By Henry Dove
D. D. Chaplain in ordinary to hiš
Majefty.

A Sermon preached before the King
^tWhite-hall(Jan.2^.i62y  being the
feaft of St. Pand 's Converfion. By
Henry Dove D. D.  Chaplain in or-
dinary to his Majefty. Publifhed by
his late Majefty’s fpecial command.

The prefent miferies and mifchiefs of
fin, difcourfed in a Sermon before
the Lord Mayor of London.  By Rob*
bert Wenjely,  Vičar of Cheftlunt.

A  difcourfe concerning the Devotions
of the Church of Rome,  efpecially
as compared with thole of the
Church of England.

Oratio Anniverjaria hahita in Theatro
Coli. Med. Lond. ft Georgio Rogers,
ejufdem Collegi Socio.

A Collečtion of Cafes and other Dif-
courfes lately vvritten to recover
Diflenters to the Coramunion of the
Church of England.  By fome Di-
vines of the City -of London.  In two
Volumes.

Čanja Keteris Epitaphiam. Accedit Cauf.
Ja Ketus conclamata.

Concavnm Cappo-cloacorum,  or a view
in little of the greatWitand Hone-
Ity contained under a brace of Caps.

A Sermon preached at the Funeral of
Sir Roger ‘Bradjhaigh  Knight and
Baronet. By Richard IKroe  B. D.

A Sermon preached before the King at
Winchefter, Sept. 9.  1683. By Fran~
cis Turner  D. D. Dean of fflindfor.

A Sermon preached before Sir Hen-
ry Tulfe  Lord Mayor of the City of
London, the Court of Aldermen,
at St. Bridgets,  on Eafter Manday
1684. By Francis  Lord Bilhop of
Rochefter  & Almonerto his Majefty.

A Sermon preached before the King
at Whitchall, Tftov. 5.  1684. B Y
Francis  Lord Bilhop of Ely  and Al-
moner to his Majefty.

The New Teftament ip the Irifti
Tongfie and Charader.

The Works of the Reverend and
Learned Mr. John Gregorp  Mi A-
©f


A Cata/ogue.

of Chrifts Church in Oxon. In two
parts.

A Brief Account of Ancient Chur ch
Government, with a Refleftion on
feveral modem vvriters of the Pref-
bytefians.

Ogygia f etl rerum  Hibertficarum Chrono-
logia : ex pervetufiis monumentis f.de-
liter inter je collatis eruta,atque exfa-
cris ac prophanis Literis prim ar um
orbit gentium tam Genealogicis quam
chronologicis fujfiaminata prafidijs,  &c.
cum Cataloao Kegum in Britannia Seo-
torum.Authore Roderico O Flat er ly Ar-
rnigero.

A  Difcourfe concerning a Guide in mat-
ters ofFaith.

A Difcourfe concerning Invocation of
Saints.

A Difcourfe concerning the Unity of
the Catholick Church, maintained
in the Church of England.

A Liifcourfe concerning Articular
Confelfion,as it is prcfcribed by the
Council of Trent,  and pračtifed in
the Church of Rome.

Očtavo and Tvvelves.

T vvo Letters of Advice. i. For the
fufceptionofHoly Orders. 2. For
Studies Theological. With a Cata-
logue of the Chriftian Writers and
Genuin Works that are extant of
the firft three Cenurys. 8vo.

Some Confiderations of Prcfent Con-
cernment,how far the Romanifts may
be trufted by Princes of another
perfualion, &c. 8vo.

A Reply to Mr. Baxter$  pretended
Confutatibn of a Book entitled, Se-
paration of Churches from Epijcopal
Government,  &c. proved Schifmati-
cal. Tovvhicljare added threeLet-
ters vvritten to hina in the year
1573. 8vo.

A Difcourfe concerning the One Al-
tar and the One Priefthood, infifted
on by the ancients in their Difputes
againft Schifm. 8vo.

Dijfertationes Cyprianica.  8vo.

Tvvo (hort Difcourfes againft the Ro¬
manifts. 12 0 . Thefe fix vvritten by
Henry Dodvoell M. A.  late Fellovv
of Trinity College in Dublin.

Navigation and Commerce their Ori¬
ginal and Progrefs. By John Evelyn
Efquire- 8vo.

Of Gifts and Offices in the publick
Worklhip of God. In three parts.
By Edtvard bVetenhall, D. D.  Lord

Bilhop of Gorke.

The Sceptical Chymift. By Robert
Boyle  Efquire.

The Degrees of Confanguinity and
Affinity. By Robert Dixon D. D.  8vo.

Elenchus &4ntiquitatnm Albienenfium.

Per Dan.Langhornium, S. T. B.  8vo.
Chronicon Regam Anglorum ab Hengifto,
ufque ad Heptarchia finem. Per Dan.
Langhornium.  8vo.

Poems and Songs. By Thomas Flatman.
4th  Edition. 8vo.

Poems vvritten on feveral Occalions.
By' N. Tate. zd  Edition. 8vo.

The French  Gardinar, out of French.

By John Evelpn  Efquire. 8vo.

^Ataxia Obftaculum.  8vo.

Gardinerus de Trinitate contra Sandium.

The Catechifm of the Church of Eng¬
land,  vvith Marginal Notes. By Ed¬
vard Wetenhal D. D.  Lord Biftiop of
Corke.

Phadri Tabula ex recenfione Chr. Wafe.

The Country Perfons advice to his
Farifhoners. 8vo.

Des Cartes'$  Metaphyfical Meditations,
vvith his Life. By tfilliam Moly-
neux  Efquire.

The Life of the Bilhop of Munfter.

The Aerial NoEiilura.  8vo.

Ne\v Experiments and Obfervati-
ons made upon the Icy No&ilitca,
both by Robert Boyle  Efquire. Ide m
Latin.  12 0 .

7 healma & Clearchus,^  Paftoral Hiftory.
Cooper's Grammatica Lingua Anglicana.
Vulgar Errors in Divinity removed.
A Manual of Examples for School Ex-
ercife. ... ।

Of the Subjeft of Church Povver in
vvhom it refides. By Simon Lotrth,
Vičar of Cofmns-Blene,\R  the Dio-
cefe of Canterbury.

Di&ionarium  7 rilingue fecundum Losos
Communes, nominibus ufitatioribus An-
glicis, Latinis, Gracis. Opera Johan¬
ni; Raij M. A. et Societatis Regin So-
dalis.  8vo.

Relicjula Wbttoniana.  8vo.

Herberti  Country Perfon. 12°.

The Form of found Words. By Rob¬
ert Wenfefy,  Vicarof Chefilunt,  12°.

An Enquiry into the Miniftry of the
Presbyterians. 12 0 .

Aero-Chalinos: or a Regifter of the
Air. By N. Henjhato M. D.

Lingard'i  Letter of Advice to a young
Gentleman. 12°.

NARODNA IN UNIVERZITETNA
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Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica
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