v. T H E PRESENT STATE O F HUDS O N'S B A Y. O F H U D S O N'S BAY. CONTAINING A FULL DESCRIPTION OF THAT SETTLEMENT, AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY J AND LIKEWISE OF THE FUR TRADE, WITH HINTS FOR ITS IMPROVEMENT, &C. TO WHICH ARE ADDED, REMARKS AND OBSERVATIONS MADE IN THE INLAND PARTS, DURING A RESIDENCE OF NEAR FOUR YEARS i A SPECIMEN OF FIVE INDIAN LANGUAGES; AND A JOURNAL OF A JOURNEY FROM MONTREAL TO NEW-YORK. By EDWARD UMFREVILLE; ELEVEN YEARS IN THE SERVICE OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY, AND FOUR YEARS IN THE CANADA FUR TRADE. LONDON: PRINTED FOR CHARLES STALKER, NO. 4, STATIONERS* COURT, LUDGATE-STREET. MDCCXC. TABLE OF CONTENTS. ADDRESS to the Merchants> Traders> and Manufacturers, of Great Britain - - p. i Prefatory Advertifement - p. 3 Brief Account of the Climate, Soil, &c. of the Country on the Goafts of Hudfon's Bay - p. 11 Extremes of Heat and Cold —Melancholy Effetts of the Cold on three of the Faftory Men ;—State of the Atmofphere during the Winter;—Soil and Climate at Churchill Fort, at York-Fort,' and at Moofe and Albany-Forts. a The ( « ) The Manners and Cuftoms of the Indians near the Coafls - p. 29 Defcription of their Perfons ;—Pernicious Effects of fpirituous Liquors ;—Tragical In-flances of it;—Difcafes incident to the Indians ;—their natural Difpofition ;—Patience under Misfortunes or Fatigue ;—Addicted to Superilition ;—Inftances of it;— Religions Sentiments ;—Nature of their civil and military Subordination j—Account of an Expedition undertaken by forrie Indians againit the Efquimaux ;—Indian Method of dividing Time, and computing Numbers;—The Manner in which they trade at the Forts. A eoncife Account of the Trade to Hudfon's-Bay, with the Method purfued by the Company in carrying it on - - p. 65 Summary of the Charter granted to the Com -pany ;—Laudable Conduct of the firft. Traders and firft Directors, contrafted with the Conduct of the prefent Company;— Rivalled by the Canadian Traders;— Different ferent Methods of carrying on the Fur TradeSuperiority of the Canada Trade j~ Stock of the Hudfon's-Bay Company ;— Lift of the original Proprietors ;—Account of the Exports for ten Years;—Charges, Profits and Dividends, during that Time;— Comparative View of the prefent and former fixpences ;—Account of Imports or Sales for ten Years -y—Prefent State of the feveral Eftablifhments;—Standard of Trade with the Natives ;—Impofitions of the Traders ;—Valuation of Peltry ;—Decay of the Trade at York-Foft, and Caufe thereof ;—Ravages of the Small-Pox among the Indians. Reflections on the Company's Trade, fhewing in what Manner it may be improved to the general Benefit of the Nation - - p. 95 Conduct purfued by the Company ;—Their firft Charter expired ;—Advantages that would arife from an extenfion of the Sea Fifhery;—Means by which the Trade may be extended in the inland Parts;—the Improvement of them neglected. a 2 Some Some Account of the Company's Officers in the Country, as well the Governors, as inferior Servants - - p. 105 The Council, of whom compofed ;—Appointment and Character of the Governors ;—Tyrannical Conduct of one of the Governors ;—Treatment on their return to England;—Engagement of the Servants ;—Circumfpection ufed at their Departure from the Setttlements;—Provifions allowed the Servants ;—Prices of Goods fold them ;—Their ufual Employment j— Unhappy Situation of the Apprentices of the Company. Account of the Taking of the Hud- fon's Bay Settlements by the French in 1783 - p. 124 Taking of York-Fort by Monf. La Peroufe; —Surrendered by the Governor without Oppofition ;—Pufillanimity of the Governor ;—Churchill-Fort unprovided with Men;—Surrendered in the fame Manner. Remarks Remarks and Obfervations made in the inland Parts of Hudfon's-Bay, during a Four Years Reiidence in thofe unknown Regions - p. 143 The Author explores a new paflage into the interior Country ;—Number of Peifons employed in the interior Trade. The Face of the Country, its Soil, Climate, and natural Productions, p. 146 Defcription of a River which falls into Lake Bourbon ;---Coal found on the Banks of it;—The Countiy abounds with Moofe, Beavers, &c.—Fiuits growing here;—Species of Snakes and Frogs ;—Companion, between this Climate and that on the Sea Coafts. Of the Animals of this Country P- *57 1 A Defcription of the Buffalo and Buffalo^ Pound;—Of the Moofe;—The Red Deer; -The Jumping Deer;—The Apis to- chwk- chick-o-lhifh j—Bears, Wolves, Lynxes, Foxes, Wolverins, and Amphibious Animals;--Birds local and migratory j-Fifh, &c. Of the Indians, their Cuftoms, &c. '-'J^^^^^m p* 179 The Nehethawa Indians ;—Afllnne-poetuc Indians j—Fall Indians ;—Sufle Indians •, Black-Feet Indians ;—Paegan Indians ^— Blood Indians ;—Table of five Indian Languages. A Brief Account of the Prefent State of the Trade carried on among the aforefaid Indians - p. 203 Recapitulation of Ctrcumftances before noticed ;—Superior Addrefs of the Canadian Traders counter-balanced by the Honefty and Sobriety of thofe belonging to the Hudfon's-Bay Company ;—The Canadian Servants good Canoemen ;—Succefs of the Canadian Traders;—Oeconomical Expedients pointed out to them;—A Junction between the Canada and Hudfon's-Bay Companies recommended. Journal Journal of a Journey from Montreal to New York in the Year 1788 p. 221 Sets out from Montreal;—Defcription of the Town of St. John's j—Of Lake Cham-plain ;—Ticonderoga ;—Mount Independence i—-Still Water Laughable Appearance of a Regiment of American Militia exercifing;—-Albany ;— Town of Hudfonj Hudfon's River;—Arrives at New York. ^^^^ TO THE MERCHANTS, TRADERS, AND MANUFACTURERS, o P GREAT BRITAIN* ABOUT the year 1749, an effort was made by the late Arthur Dobbs, Efq. and feveral other patriotic gentlemen, to lay open the trade to Hudfon's Bay, fp that the people of thefe kingdoms at large might partake of it. Application was accordingly made to the Houfe of Commons ; and during the investigation of the bufinefs, many petitions were prefented to the Houfe from the trading part of the nation, praying that the exclufive right, held by charter, by the Company, might be annihilated. The at- A tempt ( * ) tempt, however, was not crowned with the fuccefs it deferved. The intereft of the Company unfortunately prevailed, and they have ever fince remained in quiet poneflion of their extenfive territories, to the great injury of this country, its trade, and manufactures. To make good this affertion, I humbly fubmit the following meets to the public; and mall efteem myfelf happy, if my endeavours to promote the general good, by pointing out an avenue to national advantage, which has too long been engroffed by an injurious monopoly, mall procure for me their patronage, and be the means of remedying the evils I have thus made known. EDWARD UMFREVILLE. « JLONfcON, JVNE 17th, 1789* Prefatory Advertifement* IN the year 1771, I entered into the fervice of the Hudfon's Bay Company, in the capacity of writer, at the Salary of fifteen pounds a year; and continued in that employ eleven years. But two of their principal fet-tlements being taken by the French in 1782, when I was made prifoner, and, upon their refloration to the Company, fome difagree-ment arifing in point of falary, I quitted their fervice* Being thus difengaged, in April 1783, I made a voyage to Quebec, with a view of acquiring a knowledge of the manner in which the Fur trade was carried on from that quarter; and here I remained for four years; during Which time I made the flate of the country, and the trade of it, my peculiar ftudy. By fo long a refidence in that part of the World, I natter myfelf I am, in a great mea- A 2 furer fiire, acquainted with every interefting particular relative to it; and lhall lay them before the public with that truth and impartiality which ought to guide the pen of every perfon who attempts to inform. Of all the authors who have wrote on this extenfive country, few have given a jufl and dif-interefted account of it. Some feem to be actuated by prejudice, whilft others, either through want .of good information, or a proper knowledge of the fubject, have led their readers into error, by mifreprefentation. Among the befl writers, we mult rank Ellis and Robfon; the former as a philofopher, and ingenious reafoner; the latter as a candid, true, and impartial writer, and who, by having refided in the country, obtained a fund of knowledge of his fubjecl: which enabled him to inform with confidence. For my part, I lhall only attempt to lay before the public fuch particulars as the above authors had not an opportunity of acquiring a knowledge of, and this I lhall do in a plain anadorned manner, humbly trulting that it will be read with candour, and animadverted on with good nature. The The geographical part of my fubject I lhall touch very lightly on, as the extent of the country and its boundaries are fufficiently known. My intention is to exhibit to the world the value of the fettlements under confederation, and how far they are capable of improvement; pointing out at the fame time, the deftructive effects of a baneful monopoly, which has fubfifted ever fince the year 1670. It is a matter of reproach to the Hudfon's Bay Company, and they have never been able to wipe off thofe fevere cenfures and accufa-tions, which all the writers on this country have fo juflly fixed on them, upon account of it, that they do not augment and make a greater national advantage of their trade, as it is capabable of fo much improvement. At a time when the defection of our American colonies, has put a flop to the confumption of fo confiderable a part of our manufactures, is it not fomewhat extraordinary that no per-fon has yet reprefentei the benefits which would accrue to this country, from exploring and examining the countries about Hudfon's Bay ? The laying open the trade to the induf- A 3 trious rrious adventurers of this nation, would be an act worthy a patriotic administration ; as it would be the means of enriching the commercial interefta of the kingdom, and giving bread to many who are now pining in diflrefs, particularly to that ufeful part of the community, who defend our country from infult, and our property from depredation, and who encounter with fortitude every fpecies of danger for the public good; I mean the Britim Sea^ men, numbers of whom we fee daily pining in diftrefs for want of employment. The Hudfon's Bay Company employ annually two mips and a floop, to take out fun-dry articles of merchandize, and bring home their peltries. The burthen together of thefe three veffels falls lhort of fix hundred tons, having on board about feventy-five men, who together with ^bout two hundred and forty perfons refiding in the country, make the whole number of men in their employ to amount to 315. What an infignificant consideration ! What a pitiful fervice, to be in the hands of a few individuals, by whom others are excluded, that would long fince have have rendered this part of the globe a valuable gem in the Britifh empire;—but fuch is the effect of exclufive monopolies; which, when not eflablifhed on a beneficial foundation, are the bane of national affluence. Though the extent of the* country from North to South is pretty well known, yet to the Weflward we are not fo well informed. I have myfelf travelled as far as 120 degrees of Longitude, from the meridian of London, through many different nations of Indians, and have always found them friendly, and ready to receive our commodities with avidity. In fpeaking of the inland country too much cannot be faid in commendation of it. Everyfpe-fpeciesof food neceffary for the fupport of man, is to be procured in the greatelt plenty. The climate is much milder than on the Sea coaft, and nothing feems to be wanting to the convenience and accommodation of its inhabitants. On the Sea coaft, which the Hudfon's Bay Company folely pofTefs, though nature has been lefs kind, yet the country is not half fb bad as it has been reprefented: the climate, A 4 though though cold, is extremely healthful, and our countrymen ufually enjoy a remarkable good State of health, during their refidence there. I can for my own part aver, that I refided there eleven years without knowing the leaft ailment. If a Stranger was to vifit thefe parts, he would be induced to think, by the debilitated State of the natives, that he was in a country uncommonly unfavourable to the human fpecies : but the ufe of Spirituous liquors, and not the climate, is the caufe of this misfortune: they drink to fuch excefs, that it is rather more furprizing any Should be left alive to tell the tale, than that they Should be found emaciated, decrepid, and Slothful. It is a melancholly reflection that the poor devoted Indians are by this means considerably diminished in number, their minds are debafed, their fpirits dejected, their bodies enervated, and they are thereby rendered unfit to fupport their families, at a time of life when the tender age of their oSFspring Stands in molt need of fupport, I have given an account of the country and its inhabitants on the Sea coaSt, distinct from the the inland territories, not only on account of my having refided there firft, but likevvife, as the climate, foil, and productions are fo dif* ferent. In giving a defcription of the climate on the Sea coaft, I have introduced a journal of an accident which befel three unfortunate men, on their duty at York fort, which will in fome meafure exemplify the feverity of the weather in that country during the winter feafon. A gentleman who refided there in the capacity of Surgeon, gathered the account from the furvivor, at different times, and in confcquence of it, made many ufeful experiments at York, and Albany Forts, which proved highly acceptable to the learned and ingenious. To give a full and comprehenfive account of Hudfon's Bay, particularly the natural hif~ tory thereof, defcribing the animal creation, and the feathered tribes, which are here in great abundance, would require more time than I can poflibly fpare, was I capable of the undertaking. Being under the neceflity of going abroad, I have been obliged to confine myfelf to the ufeful part of the fubjectj in doing ( io ) doing which I have advanced nothing but what I know to be true, either from my own experience, or the narration of fome intelligent perfon whofe veracity I can depend upon. A BRIEF ACCOUNT, 6fo A BRIEF ACCOUNT Of the Cum ate, Soil, &c. of the Country on the Coafls of Hudson's Bay, ccc. YORK FORT, where I refided eight years, lies in the lat. of 57 deg. 2 min. N. long. 93 deg. W. from London, as determined by Mr. Philip Turner, a Gentleman employed by the Company to make aftronomical obfervations within the limits of Hudfon's Bay. The air is very falubrious and healthy, efpecially during the intenfe cold in the winter months; and in the fummer, though we find it much hotter than in England, yet Europeans in general enjoy a ftate of health, unknown to the inhabitants of more temperate climes. The atmofphere is cleareft and moft ferene in the coldeft weather, and the moft piercing cold is felt at fun rifing. A good Fahrenheit's Thermometer frequently ftood at 50 degrees below the cypher in the month of January; whereas in fummer, the mercury would very frequently afcend to 90 deg. above the cypher, making a difference of 140 de^ i 12 ) 140 degrees between the extremities of heat and cold. From November to the Vernal Equinox, Britifh, and even French fpirits, rum, and the like, will freeze to the confidence of honey. When expofed without doors, in the fpace of four hours, Englifli brandy, contained in cafks of no gallons each, will be often found too thick to run through a large brafs cock. We have cellars that are eight or ten feet deep, under the guard-rooms where the people live, and where there is a daily and almofl perpetual fire; yet even in this repofitory, I have Seen the London porter fo frozen, that only a few gallons could be got out of a whole hogf-head j the remainder has been converted to - ice feveral inches thick, which, when thawed, had not the lead: Strength remaining. I have feen a cafk of water put into the open air, and in 48 hours it has burfl the cafk, In an hour's time, the air condenfes fo thick on the windows, that it is impof-fible to difcern an object on the other fide; and it likewife adheres in large quantities to the wainfeotting on the infide, as well as to ' - the cieling of the rooms. The froft is never out out of the ground; even in fummer it is., thawed but about four feet below the fur-face; and in the thick woods, the warmth of the atmofphere gets no lower than two feet. The intenfenefs of the cold is beyond expreflion, and its effects are frequently productive of the moft tragical events. Thet poor natives take every precaution to guard againft its confequences; but notwithstanding their utmoft care, they frequently fall a prey to its feverity. Unhappy, indeed, is the fate of thofe poor creatures, who meet with this kind of death ! After enduring great torment for a confiderable time, the cold at length feizes the vitals, when the unfortunate perfon foon expires. Women have been found frozen to death, with a young infant, likewife frozen, clafping its arms round the mother's neck; others have been found dead, and the babe ftill alive. The firft year I wintered in Hudfon's Bay, afforded an opportunity of defcribing the melancholy effefts of the cold in the perfons of three of our Factory men, whofe names were John Farrant, James Tomfon,and James Rofs. The The following account was gathered at timee from the latter, who furvived his unfortunate companions. On Monday. January the 6th, 1772, thefe three men fet out in the morning in order to hunt partridges, and to collect frefli provifions for the Factory, as is the cuftom of the country. They were to ftay three weeks; at the concluiion of which time they were to return with what they had procured. In the early part of their journey they had a river to crofs, about three miles over, which was not compleatly frozen at the time they reached it. Near this river, they flept the firft night, intending to crofs it the next morning. Tuefday the 7th. About eight or nine o'clock in the morning they proceeded to crofs the river, but they had not walked far on the ice before they perceived the fmoke of open water below them, and that they went very faft down the river; which convinced them that they were adrift. This they found to be the cafe, and that the ice they ( *5 > they were on was a large fmooth field. They had two dogs with fleds with them, and the ebb tide carried them out to fea. Wednefday the 8th. The tide of flood brought them into the fame river, but not fo high as the place from whence they had been firft carried. The weather hitherto had been very mild, and it had fnowed a little during the night. In their baggag* was fome cake they had baked the day before they left the fort, and a bottle with near a quart of gin; of this they took a little now and then. Thurfday the 9th. The weather ftill continued remarkably mild and clear. They were again driven up the river with the flood, .but not fo high as yefterday, as the tides were falling off. As the piece of ice they were upon did not, during its thus driving up and down the river, come near the more, they were obliged to continue on it, and were driven out again with the ebb. The cake and gin was not yet expended, and they flept flept together in a leathern tent upofi tht ice. Friday the ioth. The weather mild as before, with fmall breezes of wind from the S.E. quarter. A little fnow fell in the night. The flood brought them again into the river, and this day they exerted them-felves very much to gain the more. In hopes of doing this Rofs took his gun, powder and mot, blanket, and a little bag containing materials for kindling a fire ; Farrant took only a beaver coat. Tomfon was fo anxious to gain the more that he would flay for nothing. One of the dogs accompanied them, the other flayed with the fleds. After wandering about over the ice with the greateft anxiety for the major part of the day, they found their utmofl endeavours ineffectual; they therefore turned about to go to their fleds; but, to add to their misfortunes, they faw the fleds pafs them on another piece of ice, and the dogs eating and tearing the tent, &c. without their being able to come at them. Their little flock of cake was expended this day. The ebb tide now carried ( i7 ) ried them far out into the bay, fo that they loft fight of the land, and wild geefe and other fea fowls hovered over them in great numbers. Rofs and Tomfon lay under the blanket, and Farrant ufed the beaver coat. Saturday the nth. The weather, though colder than any of the preceding days, was yet very moderate for this frigid time of the year. The wind S.W. a moderate fro ft, the night over-eaft, but the day clear. The* unhappy men had feen land to eaft ward, and again to the northward. When the flood made, they drew nearer to the land, and the ice doling about high water, afforded them hopes of once more getting on more; but the attempt did not fucceed. John Far-rant this day had the misfortune to fall into the water, in Stepping from one piece of ice to another; he was nearly carried under, before his miferable companions could drag him out. Rofs having a clean ihirt in his bag, they put it upon Farrant, and belted the beaver coat about him : afters-wards, being nearly fpent, he lay down, B while while Rofs and Tomfon gathered pieces of Shelving ice, which they placed round him, as a barricade againfl the weather. They had a piece of fugar left, and half of it was all they fubfifled on that day. Sunday the 12th. Though it was very warm all the day, yet it was very difagree-able, as it blew very hard from the N.E. and much fnow fell, which caufed it to drift much during both the day and night. The piece of ice they were upon had grounded before day-break; and when the flood made, the water began to come upon it, fo that they were obliged to call upon Farrant to rife; but death had freed the poor man from his troubles. Rofs and Tomfon continued on or near the fame piece until the water had fallen away. While they fat weeping by the corps, a feal came upon the ice; it did not meddle with the body, but looked very ltedfaftly on them; Tomfon defired Rofs to moot it, but he refufed, faying, *' I myfelf may foon be dead." They afterwards went from piece to piece, but the weather being thick, they knew not what courfe eourfe to take. The fugar which remained was their food this day, and now their whole flock was expended. Monday the 13th. A flifF gale of wind Hill continued from N. to N.N.W. with thick drifting weather; the morning was mild, but as night approached it grew very fharp and cold. Tomfon and Rofs walked again amongfl the rough ice. The hands of the former were fwelled to fueh a fize, that even with the afliftance of his comrade, he could not force them into his mittens; his face was alfo much tumified, and he became delirious ; for on Rofs telling him, that in two days they would reach the Factory, he anfwered, what -, naming a village in the Orkneys, to which he belonged. The flood confined them to the fame piece of ice, and here poor Tomfon died, jufl as the moon funk below the horizon. Tuefday the 14th. The gale was quite abated, but the cold increafed, and though very rimy, yet the fun fhone early in the morning. The water flowed upon the ice B a that ( z° ) that Rofs remained on, and foon after it drove a large piece over Tomfon's body, upon which Rofs with difficulty got. The ebb running out, and the fun becoming vifible, he directed his courfeby it, and after walking all the day over the rough ice, he reached the more at the back of the Factory Ifland, where a path is cut (trait, from high water mark, to the Factory. The unfortunate man imagining himfelf on the eaftern fhore, miftook this opening for fome river or creek on that coaft, fo walked up till he came to a place which he remembered. Here he found his miftake, and returning back immediately, ftruck into a right path. He now broke1 down fome fticks, and endeavoured to kindle a fire, but without effect. In this attempt he froze his fingers; he had benumbed them before in exchanging mittens and aflifting Tomfon : his feet were Ukewife benumbed before he reached the fhore. This night he lay on a few fticks, he had broken down for that pur-pofe. Wednefday Wednefday the 15th. The weather this day was very moderate. He fet out for the Factory, but his extreme weaknefs made him fall feveral times, whi ch filled his mittens with fnow, and froze his fingers folid. Though the distance was no more than four miles at farther!:, it was feven o'clock in the evening when he arrived at the gates, where he fired his gun off to make himfelf heard. The extremity of his nofe was frozen, but he was perfectly feasible on his arrival. One of the dogs came home with him, having ftaid by him all the time. The packet for Churchill went from the Factory but the day before; had the fac -torymen but followed the track of thefe natives, all then would have been well; but the decrees of Providence are unfearch^-able. The other dog was Slightly wounded by a fetting gun on the eaftern fhore. Poor Tomfon declared the day before his death, that he could hav e lived much longer had he had provifions to eat, B 3 The The unfortunate furvivor was obliged to fufFer amputation on moft of his fingers and toes, and his nofe was much mutilated. But Mr. Hutchins, who was then furgeon at York Fort, effected a fine cure by preferving him; and the man now lives comfortably in Orkney, the place of his nativity. On hearing of his misfortune, a fubferip-tion was fet on foot for his fupport at every place in the Company's fettlements. The people liberally contributed according to their feveral abilities ; and the Company, actuated by the laudable example fet by their fervants, allowed him an annuity of 20I. for life. Before I leave the fubject of this unfortunate man, I cannot help remarking, that his ingratitude was confpicuous to a great degree; notwithftanding his mates in the Factory, chiefly his poor countrymen, affected by his misfortunes, had fo liberally contributed towards his fupport, he had not the fenflbility to thank any one of them for their humanity, though the greateft part of his benefactors had no more than 61. a year. In In thecoldeft weather the atmofphere is the moft ferene. Throughout the day the air is generally filled with icy particles, which are fmall beyond conception ; thefe are driven about in the direction of the wind, and adhere to every thing which happens to be in the way of their progrefs. In the evening the ftars begin to (hine with refulgent luftre; and the contemplative mind is ftruck with reverence and awe, to fee the Aurora Borealis darting with inconceivable velocity to all parts of the heavens. Very few winter nights pafs in Hudfon's Bay, without this phenomenon making its appearance; fometimes the irradiations are feen of a very bright red, at other times of a pale milky colour, undulating with every beauty it is poflible to conceive or defcribe. In the winter feafon, it frequently happens that the air is fo full of watery vapours, that the fun will be obfcured for feveral weeks together. This is occasioned by the rime, which afcends from the open fea water, and being condenfed by the cold, is driven by the wind to a considerable dif-B 4 tance. tancc. I have feen the trees, &c. fifty miles off to leeward, covered over with it. During the cold ferene weather in the winter, innumerable ftars fhine forth with inconceivable brilliancy ; and, added to the beautiful appearance of the moon, make a moft reverential and fplendid appearance ; Parhelia likewife become vi-fible, which is a fure indication of intenfe cold ; and Parafelenes or mock moons appear, when the vapours arising from open water become condenfed by the froft. The foil at Churchill Fort, which lies in lat. 59 deg. oo min. is generally rocky near the fea coafts, very dry, and bare of vegetables. There are no woods within feven miles of the fhore, and confequently, the Factory is much expofed to the inclemency of the weather, efpecially in the winter feafon. The woods here are considerably fmaller than at York Fort; the trees of which they cqnfift are junipers, pines, poplars, and willows, but fo insignificantly fmall, that it is with fome difficulty the winters ( *S ) winter's fire-wood is procured for the Factory ; and the farther the traveller proceeds to the Northward, the barer he will find the earth of every kind of vegetable. The inhabitants likewife become fewer; till at length not the leaft herb is to be feen, nor any trace of human fteps obferved, in the frigid wafte. At Churchill the winters are very long, and the cold intenfely fevere. About the latter end of October, the Shortening of the days, the coldnefs of the weather, and other indications, proclaim the proximity of winter; and from that time to the middle of May, this part of the world is buried in froft and fnow. During this period, the utmoft precaution is frequently ineffectual to repel the feverity of the feafon. Many kinds of birds and animals become white; and feveral perfons have unfortunately loft their lives in travelling over thefe unhofpitable regions. Notwithstanding all this, when the genial rays of the fun begin to extend to thefe parts of the globe, vegetation is exceedingly quick. The trees (hoot up with furprizing celerity, and the Factory people are foon able to to gather the produce of a little garden ftufr, put into the ground about the middle of June. Much the fame may be faid of the climate of York Fort, excepting that difference to be expected from a more foutherly fituation. The fun rifes on the fhortefl day at 8h. 48m. 12fec. Very little can be faid in commendation of the foil at the Company's northerly fettlements. It is of fo loofe and clayey a nature, that the banks of the river are continually falling down through inundations and deluges; and it is very unfit for agriculture, even if the climate would admit of it. A tolerable quantity of creffes, radifhes, lettuces, and cabbages, may, however, be procured, with proper cultivation; and, in a favourable feafon, even peafe and beans ; but thefe fo feldom come to any perfection, that they are efteemed a kind of luxury. The face of the country is low and marfhy, and at a little diftance off, feems to prefcnt to the eye a fine profpect of tall pines pines and junipers ; but upon a nearer approach you find yourfelf mod egregioufly deceived. The pine trees, which are of different kinds, are but fmall; near the fea-coafts they generally run knotty, and are unfit to be ufed in the Structure of good buildings. The fame may be faid of the juniper trees, growing in the fame fitua-tion. But on leaving the marfhy ground, and retiring inland to the fouthward, the trees are of a more Stately growth ; and about Moofe and Albany Forts, they are found of all diameters. Here the climate is much more temperate than at York Fort and Churchill Settlement. Potatoes, turnips, and almoft. every fpecies of kitchen garden ituff, are reared with facility; and no doubt corn might be cultivated, if the lords of the foil had patriotifm enough to make this extensive country of any fervice to Great-Britain. But it has been an invariable maxim with them for many years parr, to damp every laudable endeavour in their fervants, that might tend to make thefe countries tries generally beneficial to the Mother Country. This conduct will appear very extraordinary to thofe, who are unacquainted with the felf-interefted views of the Company. They imagine, that if it was known to the nation, that the lands they porTefs were capable of cultivation, it might induce individuals to enquire into their right to an exclufive charter; it is therefore their bufinefs to reprefent it in the worfr. light pofiible, to difcourage an inquiry, which would make the foundation of their beloved monopoly. But to return.—Throughout the woods to thefouthward theground is covered with a very thick mofs, among which grow various kinds of fmall fhrubs, bearing fruit, fuch as goofe-berries, currants, Strawberries, rafberries, cranberries, with many others too tedious to mention. A herb, which the natives call Weefuc a pucka, grows very plentifully in all parts of the country. The Indians make ufe of it by way of medicine; it makes a very agreeable tea, and is much ufed Jiere both by Europeans and natives, not; not only for its pleafant flavour, but for its falutary effects. Its virtues are many; it is an aromatic, very ferviceable in rheumatic cafes, Strengthens the ftomach, relieves the head, and alfo promotes perfpi-ration. Outwardly, it is applied to gangrenes, contulions, and excoriations ; in the latter cafe the powder is made ufe of. Another herb of much utility to the natives grows likewife here; this they call Jack ajh a puck. They mix it with their tobacco to reduce its Strength. The Manners, Cujloms, &c, of the Indians. Having given a brief account of the# climate, foil, &c- of the country, it will not be unfeafonable to fay fomething of the people who inhabit it. The Hudfon's Bay Indians were originally tall, properly proportioned, Strongly made, and of as manly an appearance as any people whatever. This, however, was before their commerce with Europeans had enervated and debafed their minds and bodies, by introducing fpi-rituous liquors among them, and habituating '( 3° > ating them to fevere courfes of drinking. They are naturally much addicted to this fatal cuftom ; but when it is encouraged and enforced by thofe who call themfelves an enlightened people, it certainly is not only bl ameable, but highly criminal. Were common fcnfe but made ufe of to direct the conduct of thofe who are benefited by the trade carried on with the Indians, felf-intereft. and good policy would teach them to difcourage, as much as poflible, a habit fo prejudicial to them, and fatally destructive to thefe miferable people. They are generally of a benevolent difpofition, and eafy to be perfuaded by perfons who underftand their language; but as a moft unconfcionable * gain is got by trading in fpirits with them, it is not to be fuppofed the factors will ever be induced to put a Mop to this unchristian practice. An Indian will barter away all his furs, nay even leave himfelf without a rag to cover his nakednefs, in exchange for that vile unwholefome fluff, called Englifh brandy. If by fuch exceffive intoxication they only irreparably injured their own constitutions, and debilitated their race, the confequences, confequences, though pernicious, would not be fo dreadful as they ufually are ; but during their intoxication not only frefh quarrels enfue, old grievances are alfo renewed, and death is frequently the confequence of former bickerings, which but for this ftimu-lator had been buried in oblivion. The following tragical indances of the baneful effects of thefe poifonous diftilla-tions, happened, among many others, under my own knowledge. Excefs of liquor frequently makes Europeans merry and gay; but with the Indian it has a contrary effect: at this time he recollects his departed friends and relations; he laments their death very pathetically with tears ; and if near the graves of any of them, will fometimes run out and weep at them. Others again will join in chorus in a fong, although unable to hold up their heads; and it is not uncommon for them to roll about the tent jn a fit of frenzy, and frequently into the fire. On thefe occafions fome quarrel is fure to take place, and fome ancient disagreement is revived. They fometimes have the the precaution to order the women to* re* move. all. offensive weapons out of the tent % but as they cannot part with their teeth, it is not unufual to fee fome of them the next morning without a nofe. Sometimes they come off with the lofs of an ear, or joint of a finger. In thefe affrays no regard is paid to relationfhip, brothers and fiflers often engaging each other. After one of thefe rencounters, an Indian entered the Fort one morning, and defired to be admitted to the furgeon; as foon as he got into his apartment, he faluted him in broken Englifh with " Look here, man, here my nofe," at the fame time holding out his hand, with half his nofe in it, which he wanted the furgeon to put on again, for they have a great opinion of the faculty. The man's nephew, it feems, had bit it off, and he declared, that he felt no pain, nor was f.nfible of his lofs, till awaking the next morning he found the piece laying by his fide. A few years fince, a party oF Indians came down to trade, and the firft day of their their arrival, as their invariable cuitoni is; got drunk- In this State of inebriation; as two of them were Struggling together^ one of them finding that he could not dif-engage himfelf from his antagonift, fnatched a bayonet out of its cafe, and Stabbed him in the breaSt. On hearing a noife, fome perfons went into the tent to learn the caufe ; when they foUnd the unhappy mart in a moft. defperate (late, his lungs protruding through the wound, as large as a mark's hand, at each refpiration. A tent was pitched for him within the Factory works, and every afliftance was given him by the Englifh, but he died on the fifteenth day. At another time three Indian men were fent with a packet from York Fort to Churchill River. The firft thing to be done after they arrived at the place of destination, was, as ufual, to get dead drunk. There happened to be an Indian here, who had formerly borne fome animofity to one of thefe packet-men, but which had never been thought of when reafon poffeSTed the C fenfes: SenSes: the fumes of the liquor, however, revived, with peculiar acrimony, the revenge which lay buried in his bofom. After diS-courfing together for fome time, and irritating each other with bitter retorts, the man who fuppofed himfelf injured went into the Factory, and procured a bayonet from the Governor, with which he very foon put a period to the exigence of his unhappy adverfary. The deceafed left a wife and eight children. I could recount upwards of forty instances of a fimilar kind, which occurred to me whilfr, I was in Hudfon's Bay, where revenge, and destruction, marked the Steps of the drunken favage ; but the above instances will Sufficiently lhew the iniquity and evil tendency of fupplying the Indians with Spirituous liquors, and encouraging the immoderate ufe of them. By this diabolical commerce the country is impoverished of inhabitants, the trade of courfe imperceptibly declines, and this extenfive Settlement is in a great meafure prevented from from rivalling many of our other foreign eftablifhments. The natives of Hudfon's Bay are a people of a middle fize, of a copper complexion, their features regular and agreeable, and few distorted of deformed perfons are feen among them. When young they have ex-ceflive large bellies, which is to be attributed to the enormous quantity of food they devour; but as they grow towards puberty this part decreafes to a common fize. Their constitutions are Strong and healthy, and their diforders few ; the chief of thefe is the dyfentery, and a violent pain in the breaft, which the English call the Country Distemper. The latter is fuppofed to proceed from the cold air being drawn into the lungs; which impeding the vef-fels from Spreading throughout that organ, hinders the circulation, and renders re-fpiration extremely painful and difficult ; yet I never heard of any dying of it. The venereal difeafe is alfo very common among them, but the Symptoms are much milder than in Europe, perhaps owing to their C 2 diet, diet, which is void of fpices, or fait, and of Spirituous liquors, when from theFactory. They feldom live to a great age, but enjoy all their faculties to the hit. In their difpofitions they are mild, afFable, and good-natured, when fober; but when intoxicated they are lofi to every focial quality, and difcover the greater!: propenfity to quarrelling, theft, and the worft of vices. When we view the fair fide of their characters, we find them kind, courteous, and benevolent to each other, relieving the wants and neceffities of their diftreffed brethren with the greateft good-nature, either by counfel, food, or cloathing. The good effects of this excellent difpofition are frequently experienced by themfelves ; for, as in their mode of life no one knows how ibon it may be his own fate to be reduced to the verge of extremity, he fecures for himfelf a return of kindnefs, mould he experience that viciffitude. On the other hand, they are fly, cunning, and artful to a great degree ; they glory in every fpecies of furacity and artifice, efpecially when the theft theft or deception has been fo well executed as to efcape detection. Their love to their offspring is carried to a very great height. From the ftate of childhood to maturity they fcldom or never correct their children, alledging, that when they grow up they will know better of themfelves. Neither is this indulgence made a bad ufe of when reflection Succeeds the irregularities of youth; on the contrary, fentirnents of reverence, gratitude, and love, link their affections to the authors of their being ; and they feldom fail to give the utmoft afliflance to their aged parents whenever their imbecility requires it. With refpect to their corporeal abilities, they are almofl: without exception great walkers ; they patiently endure cold, hunger, and fatigue; and bear all misfortunes with admirable fortitude and resignation, which enables them bravely to encounter the profpect of ill, and renders the mind ferene under the prefiure of ad-yerfity. As their country abounds with innumerable herds of deer, elks, and buf-C 3 faloes, faloes, they frequently make great (laughter among them; and upon thefe occafions they have no regard to futurity, or providing for an unfuccefsful day. Whether they happen to be pining under the grafp of pinching necefiity, or enjoying themfelves in all the happinefs of health and plenty, they kill all they can, having an incontrovertible maxim among them, which is, " the more they kill, the more they have to kill :" and this opinion, though diametrically oppofite to reafon or common fenfe, is as pertinacioufly held by them, as his tenets are by the moft bigotted enthufiaft. Indeed, they too frequently find it to their coft to be grounded on folly, as they fometimes fuffer extreme hunger through it; nay, many have been ftarved to death, and others have been reduced to the fad necefiity of devouring their own offspring. As a great part of the Factory provisions confifts of geefe killed by the Indians, the Englifh fupply them with powder and fhot for this purpofe, allowing them the value of a beaver fkin for every ten geefe they Ml"; kill • accordingly, after the Indian has got this fupply, he fets off from his tent early in the morning into the marfhes, where he fets himfelf down, with a degree of patience difficult to be imitated, and being Sheltered by a few willows, waits for the geefe. They fhoot them flying, and are fb very dexterous at this fport, that a good hunter will kill, in times of plenty, fifty or fixty in a day. Few Europeans are able to endure cold, fatigue, hunger, or adveriity in any fhape, with an equal degree of magnanimity and compofure to that Which is familiar to the natives of this country. After being out a whole day on a hunt, expofed to the bleakeft winds and moft penetrating cold, and that without the lead thing to fatisfy the calls of nature, an Indian comes home, warms himfelf at the fire, fmoaks a few pipes of tobacco, and then retires to reft, as calm as if in the midft of plenty ; but if he happens to have a family, he cannot always boaft of this equanimity; when reduced to extremity, his affection for them predominates over his philofophy, if it C 4 might might be fo called, and it gives way to the mod pungent for row. A blind and unconquerable fuperflition bears a principal fhare in the character of thefe unpolifhed Indians. By this he is induced to impute every occurrence of his life to fupernatural caufes. His good or bad fuccefs in hunting, the welfare of his friends and family, his duration in this mortal date, Sec. all depend upon the capricious will and pleafure of fome invifible agent, whom he fuppofes to prefide over all his undertakings: for indance, one man will invoke a con-fpicuous ftar, another a wolf, one a bear, and another a particular tree; which he imagines influences his good or ill fortune in this life. i In the fpring of 1779, fome Indians, who were employed in the vicinity of York Fort in the goofe hunt, were fo influenced by thefe fuperflitious ideas, that they believed the Devil, with hideous howlings, frequented their tent every night. They came to the Factory quite dejected, and told , 1 -* * ( 4i ) told the Governor a lamentable tale, fetting forth, with pathetic energy, the difrreSTes they were expofed to from this vifitation of the Father of Iniquity. So overcome were they by their apprehenfions, that they kept large fires continually burning all night, and fleeping only in the day-tfcpe. One of them declared that he had fired his gun at him, but unluckily miffed him. He defcribed him to be of human fhape, going about with cloaths, and taking prodigious Strides over the fnow. The Indians believed that he came in queft of fome of their families, a part of which muft be facrificed to afTuage his anger. A little brandy, however, properly applied, had a wonderful effect; for after going through a courfe of enebriation for two days, all the fears that the Devil had occasioned were entirely diflipated. It proved afterwards, that the formidable enemy that had caufed fuch a panic among them, was nothing more than a night owl, which had frequented this place. This bird, by the Shrieks and difmal noife which he makes in the night, frequently caufes fuch apprehenfions nons in the minds of the Indians, that it works upon their imaginations to fuch a degree, as to induce them to believe the Devil is really and fubftantially prefent. Exclufive of thefe fuperftitious ideas, the religious fentiments of thefe people, though confufed, are in many refpedts juft. They allow that there is a.good Being, and they fometimes fing to him; but not out of fear or adoration, for he is too good, they fay, to hurt them. He is called Kitch-e-man-e-to, ' or the Great Chief. They further fay, there is an evil Being, who is always plaguing them they call him Whit-ti-co. Of him they are very much in fear, and feldom eat any thing, or drink any brandy, without throwing fome into the fire for Whit-ti-co. If any misfortune befals them, they fing to him, imploring his mercy; and when in health and profperity do the fame, to keep him in good humour. Yet, though obfequious fometimes, at others they are angry with him, efpecially when in liquor; they then run out of their tents, and fire their guns in order to kill him. They frequently perfuade perfuade themfelves that they fee his track in the mofs or fnow, and he is generally de-fcribed in the moft hideous forms. They ' believe that both the good and the bad Being have many fervants; thofe of the former inhabiting the air, but thofe of the latter walking on the earth. They have likewife an opinion that this country was once overflowed ; an opinion founded on meeting with many fea (hells far inland. They have no manner of government or Subordination. The father, or head of a family, owns ho fuperior, nor obeys any command. He gives his advice or opinion of things, but at the fame time has no authority to enforce obedience : the youth of his family follow his directions, but rather from filial affection or reverence, than in confequence of any duty exacted by a fuperior. When feveral tents or families meet to go to war, or to the Factories to trade, they choofe a leader, but it is only voluntary obedience they pay to the leader fo chofen ; every one is at liberty to leave him when he pleafes, and the notion of a commander commander is quite obliterated as foon as the voyage is over. Merit alone gives the title to dittinclion ; and the pofTeffion of qualities that are held in efteem is the only method to obtain refpedt. Thus a perfon who is an experienced hunter; one who knows the communication between the lakes and rivers; one who can make long harangues 3 is a conjurer; or if he has a family; fuch a man will not fail of being followed by feveral Indians, when they happen to be out in large parties ; they likewife follow him down to trade at the fettlements: he is, however, obliged to fe-cure their attendance upon this occafion by promifes and rewards, as the regard paid to his abilities is of too weak a nature to command Subjection. In war a mutual re-fentment againfc their enemies forms their union for perpetrating their revenge. Per-fonal courage, patience under hardships, and a knowledge of the manners and country of their adverfaries, are the qualifications fought after in the choice of a leader. They follow him, whom they have thus chofen, with fidelity, and execute his projects with alacrity; but their obedience obedience does not proceed from any right in the leader to command/ it is folely founded on his merit, on the affection of his followers, and their defire of fubduing their enemies. Thefe Sentiments actuate every breaft, and augment the union; while in more civilized nations fuch a compact is effected by fubmiflion to the laws of government. Some years fince, the Company being informed that the Indians frequently brought fine pieces of copper to their fettlements on Churchill River, they took it into confide-ration, and appointed a perfon, with proper afliftants, to furvey and examine the river where this valuable acquisition was fuppofed , to be concealed. The perfon employed in this bufmefs gives the following account of his expedition, wliich will defcribe the Indian method of going to war. Thefe are his words : H In 62 deg. 57 min. N. (i latitude, and 18 W. longitude, from (C Churchill River, is where we built our ** canoes in 1771; there many Northern " Indians joined us, and finding we were " intended ** intended for the copper mine river, that 49 fummer, between 70 and 80 ftout fellows 49 agreed to accompany us, with no.other *' intent than to kill the Efquimaux. I ufed 99 my bell: endeavours to perfuade them from " this defign, but to no purpofej for, in-" flead of my advice having the defired ef-99 feci, they imputed it to cowardice. That " being a character I always defpifed, I was " obliged to fum up my belt endeavours, to *. - » f river, but the poor Efquimaux were fo ' unacquainted with the nature of guns,, * that when the bullets Struck the rocks, ' they run in bodies to fee what was fent * them, and feemed curious in examin-f ing the pieces of lead they found flat- * tened on the rocks, 'till at laft one man ' was Shot through the calf of the leg, f after which they immediately embarked * in their canoes with their wives and chil- * dren, and paddled to a Shoal in the riverl ( After the invaders had killed every foul * they could get at, they began breaking * the Stone kettles and copper work, which ' the Efquimaux make uSe of inftead of iron. ' When this was done, they aSSembled on ' the top of a high hill, calling out Timay ' Tima, by way of derifion to the furviv- ing Efquimaux. We then went up the river about half a mile, to the place where ' our tents and baggage were, with an in-1 tent to crofs over and plunder the other f feven tents. It taking up a considerable f time for all to crofs the river, and beine 1 entirely under cover of the rocks, the ' poor Efquimaux, whom we left on the D 2 « Shoal, " moal, thought we were gone about out* bufinefs, and had returned to their tents *' again. Accordingly, the Indians ran " on them, but they having their ca-** noes ready, they all embarked, and. " reached the Shoal above-mentioned, ex-" cept one man, who, being over attentive " in tying up his things, he had no time to *f reach his canoe, fo fell a facrifice to their " lavage ferocity, for they made his body *' like a Strainer. After the Indians had " plundered thefe tents of every thing " worth their notice, they threw the tent " poles into the river, broke their Stone kettles, and did all the damage they could, " to diftrefs the poor furvivors. We found .''an aged woman fpearing falmon a Short .«« distance up the river, whom they bar-" baroufly butchered, every man having a ** thruft at her with his fpear.'* Thus finishes this Gentleman's account of the War Expedition of the Indians by whom he was accompanied, which furniih.es us with no bad idea of the manner in which they carry on thefe excursions. I muSt here here obferve, that his abilities were every way adequate to the important undertaking he was engaged in, that of determining the truth of a copper-mine being up the country. He was two years in fearch of this valuable repofitory, which no doubt might prove of great confequence, were it profecuted with a laudable fpirit of induStry; but the Company, I muft again repeat, damp every enquiry tending to exhibit the value of the territories they exclusively enjoy. Their trade, in its prefent Irate, is a matter of fmall confequenee to this nation. Their views are narrow and felfim, and their whole constitution is in-veloped in fecrecy and obfcurity. The Indian's method of dividing the time, is by numbering the nights elapfed, or to come; thus, if he be afked how long he has been on his journey, he will anfwer, " fo many nights." From this nocturnal divifion, they proceed to the lunar or monthly divifion, reckoning twelve of thefe in the year, all of which are expreSlive of fome remarkable event or appearance, that hap-D 3 " pens ( 54 ) pens during that revolution of the moon. For instance- January, They call Kee-Sha-pou-ur-te-can-um, by reafon of the intenfe cold found at this time. February, Sha-pefhem, or the old moon. March, Mee-kee-fu-a-pefhem, or the Eagle-moon ; becaufe thefe birds vifit their coafts in this month. April* Nis-cau-pefhem, or the Goofe moon. May, Atheek-a-pefhem, or the Frog moon. June, Opineou-a-pechem, becaufe moSt birds are now laying their eggs. July, Qpus-cou-a-pefriem, becaufe the geefe are now moulting their feathers. August, Opo-ho-a-pefhem, becaufe the birds are now beginning to fly. Septem* ( 55 ) september,Wuf-ker-ho-a-pemern>becaufc the deer are now fhedding their horns. October, We-fac-a-pefhem, becaufe it is the Rutting feafon with the deer. November, As-kut-ta- te- fu-a- pefliem, this implies that the rivers are now frozen over. December, Pou-watch-e-can-a-fifli-a-pe-fhem, becaufe the feverity of the froil makes the brufh fall from the pine-trees. Their method of computing numbers is rather abftrufe, as they reckon chiefly by decades ; as follows :—Two tens, three tens, Sec. Ten tens, or an hundred tens. A few units over or under, are added or fub-tracted. Thus," 32 in their tongue is ex-preffed, by faying 3 tens and 2 over;—37 would be exprefTed by faying, 3 tens and 7 over, or 4 tens wanting three. If they reckon any large number, a fkin or ftick is laid down for every ten, and afterwards D 4 tied lied in a bundle, for the aggregate of the^ whole. Before the Canadian merchants purfued the Fur Trade with fuch diligence as they now do through the Lakes, and had penetrated into the interior parts of Hudfon's Bay, a great number of Indians ufed annually to come down to the Company's Settlements to trade theirfkins. And though the Company have jiow in a great meafure loft the benefit of this lucrative traffic, it may not be amifs to mention the manner in which the Indians profecute their voyages to the Factories. In the month of March, the Upland Indians affemble on the banks of a particular river or lake, the nomination of which had been agreed on by common con-fent, before they feparated for the winter. Here they begin to build their canoes, which are generally compleated very foorT after the river ice breaks. They then commence their voyage, but without any regularity, all ftriving to be foremoft 3 becaufe thofe who ( 57 ) who are firft have the beft chance of procuring food. During the voyage, each leader canvaffes, with all manner of art and diligence, for people to join his gang; influencing fome by prefents, and others by promifes ; for the more canoes he has under his command, the greater he appears at the Factory. Being come near their journey's end, they all put afhore; the women to go in the woods to gather Pine-brum for the bottom of the tents; while the leaders fmoke together, and regulate the procef-fion. This being fettled, they re-embark, and foon after arrive at the Factory. If there is but one Captain, his fituation is in the center of the canoes; if more, they place themfelves on the wings; and their canoes are diftinguifhed by having a fmall flag hoifted on a ftick, and placed in the ftern. When they arrive within a few hundred yards of the Fort, they difcharge their fowling-pieces, to compliment the Engliftt; who, who, in return, falute them by firing two or three fmall cannon. The leaders feldom concern themfelves with taking out the bundles, but the other men will afiift the women. The Factor being informed that the Indians are arrived, fends the trader to introduce the leaders with their lieutenants, who are ufually their elded fons or neareft relations. Chairs are placed for them to fit down on, and pipes, &c. are introduced. During the time the leader is fmoking, he fays very little, but as foon as this is over, he begins to be more talkative; and fixing his eyes immoveablyoh the ground, he tells the Factors how many canoes he has brought, .what Indians he has feen, afks how the Englishmen do, and fays he is glad to fee them. After this the Governor bids him welcome, tells him he has good goods and plenty, and that he loves the Indians, and will be kind to them. The pipe is by this time removed, and the converfation becomes free. During this vifit, the Chief is dreft out at the expence of the Factory in the follow- ing manner : a coarfe cloth coat, either., red or blue, lined with baize, and having regimental cuffs; and a waidcoat and breeches of baize. The fuit is ornamented with orris lace. He is alfo prefented with a white or check fhirt; his dockings are of yarn, one of them red, the other blue, and tied, below the knee with worded garters -y his Indian flioes are fometimes put on, but he frequently walks in his docking-feet ; his hat is coarfe, and bedecked with three odrich feathers of various colours, and a worded fafh tied round the crown ; a fmall filk handkerchief is tied round his neck, and this compleats his drefs. The Lieutenant is alfo prefented with a coat, but it has no lining; he is likewife provided with a fhirt and a cap, not unlike thofe worn by mariners. The gueds being now equipped, bread and prunes are brought and fet before the Captain, of which he takes care to fill his pockets, before they are carried out to be fhared in his tent; a two gallon keg of brandy, with pipes and tobacco for him-; felf felf and followers, are likewife fet before him. He is now conducted from the fort to his tent in the following manner: Jn the front a halbard and enfign are carried ; next a drummer beating a march ; then feveral of the Factory fervants bearing the bread, prunes, pipes, tobacco, brandy, &c. Then comes the Captain, walking quite erect and ftately, fmoaking his pipe, and converfing with the Factor. After this follows the Lieutenant, or any other friend, who had been admitted into the fort with the leader. They find the tent ready for their reception, and with clean pine brufh and beaver coats placed for them to fit on. Here the brandy, &c. is deported, and the Chief gives orders to fome refpectable perfon to make the ufual distribution to his comrades. After this the Factor takes his leave, and it is not long before they are all intoxicated ; when they give loofe to every fpecies of diforderly tumult, fuch as ringing, crying, fighting, dancing, &c. and fifty to one but fome one is killed before the morning. Such are the fad effects of the vile compofition they ( 6i ) they are furniftied with upon thefe occa-fions. After continuing in a ftate of intoxication, bordering on madnefs, for two or three days, their mental faculties return by degrees, and they prepare themfelves for renewing the league of friendfhip, by fmoaking the calimut. The ceremony of which is as follows : A pipe made of ftone is filled with Brazil tobacco, mixed with a herb fomething like European box. The ftem of the pipe is three or four feet long, and decorated with various pieces of lace, bears claws, and eagles talons, and like-wife with variegated feathers, the fpoils of the moft beauteous of the feathered tribe. The pipe being fixed to the ftem and lighted, the Factor takes it in both his hands, and with much gravity rifes from his chair, and points the end of the ftem to the Eaft, or fun-rife, then to the Zenith, afterwards to the Weft, and then perpendicularly down to the Nadir. After this he takes three or four hearty whiffs, and having done fo, prefents it to the Indian leader, ■ j leader, frotn whom it is carried round to the whole party, the women excepted, who are not permitted to fmoak out of the facred pipe. When it is intirely fmoaked out, the Factor takes it again, and having twirled it three or four times over his head, lays it deliberately on the table; which being done, all the Indians return him thanks by a kind of fighing out the word Ho. Though the above ceremony made ufe of fcy the Indians, in fmoking the calimut, may appear extremely ridiculous and in-comprehenuble> yet when we are made acquainted with their ideas in this refpect, the apparent abfurdity of the cuftom will vanifh. By this ceremony they mean to fignify to all perfons concerned, that whilft the fun {hall vifit the different parts of the world, and make day and night; peace, firm friendfhip, and brotherly love;- fhalt be eftablifhed between the English and their Country, and the fame on their part. By twirling the pipe over the head, they further intend to imply, that all perfons of the two nations, wherefover they may be; mall be included in the friendfhip and brotherhood, now concluded or renewed. After this ceremony is over, and a further gratification of bread, prunes, &c. is prefented, the leader makes a fpeech, generally to the following purport: " You told me laffc year to bring manv " Indians to trade, which I promifed to (e do; you fee I have not lied ; here are a " great many young men come with me; ** ufe them kindly, I fay; let them trade *' good goods ; let them trade good goods, *' I fay ! We lived hard laft winter and " hungry, the powder being fhort meafure ** and bad; being fhort meafure and bad, *' I fay! Tell your fervants to fill the ** meafure, and not to put their thumbs €S within the brim; take pity on us, take " pity on us, I fay ! We paddle a long way €$ to fee you; we love the Englifh. Let *' us trade good black tobacco, moift and 743 - 36i3 13 0 '744 - 4152 16 11 1745 , 3810 5 2 1746 - 339° 8 5 *747 - 3H3 18 4 1748 - 3453 2 7 3°\74» ii 5 FafloryCh. 157,432 14 4 Tra.Goods 36,741 11 5 194.I74 5 9 Com.ann. 19.417 8 6 Amount of the Company*s Exports for Ten Tears. £. s. d. 1739 " 4994 s 10 1740 - 5630 10 ii 1741 - 5622 11 4 1742 . 4007 0 0 1743 - 4894 « 11 1744 - 6736 o 9 1745 - 5462 19 6 1746 - 543I 7 ii 1747 - 458i 8 7 1748 - 5102 ix 3 52,463 9 o ( 8d ) If thefe accounts are faithful, and we ar£ not to fuppofe a fet of gentlemen would attempt to impofe a fallacy on that auguft Affembly, the dividends of the Hudfon's Bay Company mud: have been very fmall indeed ; as will appear from the following recapitulation of expences, &c. from 1739 to 1748 inclufive. Charges of Shipping, Factories, Servants 7 Wages, Sec. in ten years - j Exports in that time £• • 157*432 52,4.63 14 9 J. 4 6 Total Expences Amount of the feveral Sales 209,896 273*542 3 18 4 8 Clear Profits from the Trade in Ten Years 63,646 15 4 Dividends in One Year among 100 Pro- 7 prietors, J 6,364 13 6 For each Proprietor 63 12 it If then they could not afford to divide more than this> in the very zenith of their profperity, how inconiiderable muff, their gains have been of late years, finCe the Canadian traders have penetrated the interior country! Their expences have iricreafed in a threefold proportion, and their importations have ( h ) have decreafed at lead one third fince the above period. By way of. elucidating this aiTertion, I fhail juft ftate the difference of maintaining York Fort at prefent, and the expences attending the fame at the time the above enquiry took place. York Fort at this time has four fubordi-nate fettlements; at which fettlements, conjointly, the Company allow 100 fervantSj whofe wages amount to about 1860I. per annum; befides a floop of 60 tons, that makes a voyage once a year between York Fort and Severn Factories. To difcharge thefe expences, they receive upon an average from them all about 25000 ikins. In the year 1748, the complement of men at that fettlement was no more than twenty-five, whofe wages amounted to 470I. per annum, and the trade then flood at 30,000 ikins one year with another. The other eftablifh-ments which the Company maintain in the Bay, have fuffered the like proportional F change5 change, all decreafing in trade, and bearing additional incumbrances. It muft be obferved, that the calculations in the annexed Table, with many others, were compulfively produced before the Houfe of Commons. It is not the inclination of the Company, that the minuted: matter relating to their trade ihould be expofed to public view. They do not even allow their factors to know what the furs fell for in London, for fear that inquifitivenefs, to which mankind are prone, mould lead them to fpeculate, and draw inferences on matters which the lords of the foil deem their own feparate prerogative. But the ftation I was in while I refided in the Bay, enabled me to know for a certainty, that the quantity of furs imported of late years has fallen very fhort of their former imports j though it is allowed they Tell better now than at a prior period. As it was the ardent wifh of Arthur Dobbs, Efq. and his friends, by inflituting this parliamentary inquiry, to lay the trade open to the nation at large; fo it was equally ihe To face Page $2, Beaver Skins Martins Ot:ers Cats Fcxes "Wo'.vcrias Beais Y/ o'.\ es V/eodfhocks Elks Deer Bed-leathers Caftorum Ivory Whale- fins Minks Whale Oil and Blubber Ennins Raccoons S".airril Wecfuckapuka Deer Skins Gcofe Qm'iIIs jj.i-.ifi-, .i.iiii Bj i^er AN ACCOUNT OF THE IMPORTS OR SALES OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY FOR T£N YEARS. Kinds of Skins, &c. From Michaelmas to 1739. 6991J at 5 15156 6 355 7 1011 15 234 10 853 6 266 12 454 9 51 8 76 7 14 2 79s 1 21 6 42 o 207 2 , d. s|p.& 5 do. 7 do. 2 do. 2J do. lo do. ic^ do. lef do. o do. 0 do. n do. 5 P-!b. 1 do. (>l do. 9i do. Total J £.23,-323 5 To Michaelmas 1740. 518 2 S do" 5 2 4 p /k 30,279 16 6 To Michaelmas 1741. 58664^ 5 18679 6 628 5 743 ^ 512 7 872 7 34° 16 77i 13 49 8 35 7 266 2 2395 1 170 13 7$p.fc 4 do. 5 do. U do-Si do- o do. icj do. 65* do. 2 do. o do. 2 do. if p.lb 2* do. 630 1 iof do 123 Ball.afii/.31jp>t To Michaelmas 174*« 47169 at 5 15886 5 5=9 5 99- 11 419 S 6S5 s 359 13 6S0 12 48 3 439 6 637 2 2908 1 164 11 ip.fk J0. do. do. do. 785 i9 3 To Michasimas 1745- 53506 at 6 18992 5 903 13 1403 15 563 10 760 6 381 24 761 j6 131 10 20 7 3 1 9 261 3845 *79 6$ p.fk ii do 0 do H do. 6| do 7l do. 1 do. 6* do. 5 do. 6 do. 5 do. I p.lb Jo. 302 1 4| Jo. 9 3 3 p.fk 3 tons 10!. js. 628 p.fk 2070 o $ d°" 40 o 2* do. 9:00 -70 M- To Michaelmas .746. s. d. 30,148 6 o 4iP-ik 3i do o do. 4 d). 8 5J do. 5 " + d^ 26 7| do! icOo 14 8 do. 73 »- 0 do. 59 11 320 4 3240 1 295 7 55*71" 5 ,8007 5 1003 10 14 o 13 632 8 S-4 357 7 do. 9 do. 32 do. 3°3 2 p.fk 6 do' To Michaelmas 1747* 39505^7 '°574 5 s54 o i399 >2 380 11 843 6 300 19 1602 9 36 10 29 8 257 4 5433 1 300 7 io| p.fk i| do, 9| do. 1$ do. 7i do 5$ do, 3? do. c| d; o d> 0 do. 2 do c-Jp.lb 1 do 1314 2 3 p.lk 14 4- S do. 6 1 I p.& ^40 20 6 all '30 o 6 J ulfc 1^900 15 6 M. 26.350 5 9 6.2 o p.!k 500 21 6 aii. 12000 18 o M. 52 o 6^ p.fk 24,849 7 a To Michaelmas 1748. s. d. 52716,1/7 6 p.fk 84S5 6 8 do. 1445 9 7l do t'99 10 ic| do 5^7 8 1 i [b. 977 5 o do. 37' 22 1663 9 3= 10 50 6 105 2 5s 1 3 S 6 7 d j. Ci do. 7 do. 7 do. 3 do. 2 p.lb rf do. 126 2 c£;>. fk 33 3 ' d^- 26 1 7 p.fk 43000 15 o M. 268 o 9$ o.fl. 80 ' 1 1 do. 30,160 5 11 ( H ) the defire of the Company ftill to enjoy thofe profits, by which they had benefited them-felves for fo many years. To accomplish this flattering end, they left no flone unturned, no evidence unproduced, which might tend to confirm them in this monopoly. Accordingly, the teftimony of feveral witnefles was not admitted, there being reafon to believe that they had been tampered with by the Company. It is not then to be fuppofed, that any papers were laid before the Committee of the Houfe of Commons, but fuch as helped to fupport thefe pretenfions, invalidate the tefiimony of their opponents, and fcreen from the infpection of the people the evil of their proceedings, as a commercial Company* To exhibit at one view a ftate of their feveral eftablifhments in the Bay at prefent> I fubjoin the following table. fchurchili York Fort Severn Houfe Albany Fort Moofe Fort Eaftmain } 59 o 57 i° 56 12 52 18 51 a 53 * Long.W. 94 3 93 88 57 85 it 5C 478 Tr»de on Average. Indian Settlem Sh'ps con-ligned Co. Sloops In the No. of j Country, j Serv. XO,OOG fhip tons IOt25c /hip tons 10f7O !.s > 25,000 4 | tof25C 11 of 60 100 3 5,60c 2 2 ^ rof2Co 1 of JO 1 of7o 5° 40 2 for fear the fecrets of the Company mould gain admittance into the world; fo that as H it C 1*4 ) •ircbntains a deal of matter, and the Servant probably cannot read, it is impoffible for him to know the fubftance of his agreement one day afterwards. In this contract he is bound to Serve for three, four, or five years, and not to return home until this term is expired, unlefs recalled by the Company. He engages during his return home, though no feafaring-man, to do the duty of watch and ward on board the Ship in which he returns, and that without any pay for the fame. He is further bound, in the moft Solemn manner, not to detain, Secret, harbour, or polTefs any ikin, or part oS a fkin, on any pretence whatever ; but on the contrary, he is to Search after, and detect all perfons that may be diSpofed to engage in this fpecies of peculation. On detecting any fuch he is to expofe their perfons, and inform the Governor of their breach of contract - but if, contrary to their agreement, any perfon mould be found hardy enough to conceal any kind of peltry, or infringe his contract in the fmalleft degree, he or they fo offending are not only to forfeit feit all the wages that may be due to them* but are to pay to the Governor and Company two years pay, or the amount thereof; though all this may be done quite unknowingly by the moft faithful fervant, Urilefs forwarned of it by having a copy of his agreement. When a fervant's rime is expired; and he is returning home; before he be permitted to go on board the fhip, the Governor in perfon fees that every thing is taken out of his cheft, and even his bed examined, for fear it fhould contain any private trade. The fame circumfpection is Ufed when a perfon writes to his friends in England for a few necefTaries which he cannot well do without. In this cafe the box, or package, in which his things are inclofed muft firft be fent to the Hudfon's Bay Houfe, and undergo a careful examination, for fear it jfhould contain any thing ufed in private trade; and I have known more inftances than one or two, where a fervant has been refufed a few fhirts and ftockings, for fear they fhould be converted to this ufe. An An acquaintance of mine had his box loft at the Houfe of the Company, through the 'negligence of the clerks. After it had paffed the ufual examination, it was allowed to be (hipped and fent out. When the owner found it did not arrive, having fufhcient proof of its being loft under their roof, he wrote a fubmiilive letter to the Company, requesting an indemnification for his lofs; but fo far was he from having this reafonable requeft complied with, that one of the gentlemen at the board made the following fig-nificant remark on his letter ; " Damn the fellow, does he think that we want to wear his clothes." An obfervation that would have done little honour to a fifti porter within the purlieus of Billingfgate, During the time any Indians may be at the Settlements trading with their furs, the Factory gates are kept continually fhut; and it is the employment of one perfon to watch that no one goes out, for fear he fhould carry on a private trade with the Indians : fo that all the fervants in the Forts fometimes remain imprifoned like birds in a cage, for a week a week together ■ and even if a perfon withes to take a walk on a Sunday afternoon, when there are no natives trading, he rnuft hrit: go to the Governor, and humbly fupplicate his permirTion, before he can walk one quarter of a mile in order to recreate himfelf. The provifions allowed the fervants are, taken altogether, but of the middling kind -fome of it is very good wholefome food, and other kinds of it are of fo bad a quality, as fcarce to be digeftive on a canine ilomach. Great quantities of venifon and geefe are falted for the ufe of the Factories during the fpring and fall of the year. This provifion will fometimes remain three or four years in the cafks unopened i after which it becomes fo compleatly putrihed, rancid, and devoid of tafte, that a perfon might as well expect nutriment from the fhavings in a carpenter's (hop. So difgufted are the fervants at it when it arrives at this ftate, that by way of contempt they term it f* falted horfe neiiV' Among Among fuch a variety of complaints juftly inftituted againft the Company, and thofe who act under their directions, I arn happy to have it in my power to mention one particular in which they merit commendation • and this is the moderate price they fix on fome European commodities, which they fell to their fervants who, as they have fuch low wages, would not otherwife be able to furnifh themfelves with necelfary conveniences for the climate. The following articles are thus rated : Brafs Kettles, 2s. 6d. per lb.—Soap, is. 6d. ditto.—Sewing twine, is. 6d. ditto, —Tobacco, leaf, is. 6d. ditto.—Tobacco, Englifh roll, 3s. 6d. ditto.—Cloth, 6s. 6d. per yard. — Duffels, 4s. ditto.—Flannel, is. 6d. ditto.—Guns, 30s. each.—Shirts, 4s. 6d. each.—Blankets, 8s. each.—Shoes, 5s. 6. per pair.—Stockings, 3s. per pair.— Writing paper, is. per quire. — Englifh Brandy, 5s. per gallon, &x. The chief employments of the inferior fervants in the Settlements, is carrying logs of wood, wood, walking in fnow-fhoes, fledging the fnow out of the Factory avenues, and hunting; and notwithstanding the inconveniences before recited, after a perfon has been a few years in the fervice, he generally imbibes a love for the country, unlefs difcouraged by the bad ufage of his fuperiors. The hunting part of his duty he generally follows with pleafure and avidity; befides the recreation he receives from the fport on thofe excurflons, he takes delight in being from the Factory during them, as then he becomes his own mafter, and is free from the infpection of a too watchful overfeer. Notwithstanding thecuftoms of this country, as at prefent eftabliihed, are rather forbidding, and feem to difcourage us from wifh~ ing to live in fo frigid a clime, yet, as already obferved, though cold, it is exceeding healthy ; and there have been many who have lived here feveral years not only comfortably, but happy; and have enjoyed a better ilate of health perhaps than they would have done in a lefs inhofpitable country, H 4 I cannot I cannot leave. this Subject without rer prefentihg the loft (rate a youth is in, who is unfortunate enough to be bound apprentice to the Hudfon's Bay Company.—The unfortunate young man is perhaps the only fon of a tender and affectionate parent, who, thinking to forward the happinefs of his child, articles him to this Company for feven years : I have known an inftance where a bqy has been bound for fourteen years. On his arrival in the country, he knows nobody. His mailers who fent him out, and to whom he is to look for fupport, are now many hundreds of miles diltant. The Governor is quite indifferent about him, he having fervants of his own. The confe-quence of this is, the boy affociates with the commpn men, forms connections with them, and becomes habituated to their cuf-toms, which his tender years are not able to guard againft. The education given him by his parents is now foon obliterated; he imbibes frefh vices daily; contracts a love for fmoaking, drinking, and fwearing; and in a word, becomes a reprobate. His employment % ployment confifts in cleaning the Governor s knives and fhoes, running on errands for the cook, and cutting down and carrying heavy logs of wood, m ich b.yond his years and Strength. In the mean time, no care is taken to inculcate the precepts of religion and virtue in his mind, or even preferve thofe principles and knowledge he may have brought in the country. Every flep that would make him a man fit for the world, and a ufeful member of fociety, is totally neglected, I would afk the Hudfon's Bay Company what an apprentice of theirs is fit for, after having ferved themforfeven or fourteen years? whether he has obtained a knowledge of any art or bufinefs that will enable him to get a creditable living in the world, or to fupport himfelf when the flrength and vigour of youth are exhaufted ?—I will defy them to point out any, that has been thus acquired; as his conftant employment has confined of every fpecies of drudgery and fubordinate labour: fo that on his returning home, his indulgent parents, inflead of finding him inftructed inlr.rucr.ed in any thing that is praife-worthy, are lamentably convinced, that he is a proficient in nothing but idlenefs, fwearing, and debauchery. It may be argued by the abettors of the Company, (if they have any) that after the period of the apprentice's indentures is expired, he has an opportunity of riling in their fervice, if by good behaviour he has > merited fo much favour; that from his ap-prenticelhip, he may be made a writer at I rl. per year, from thence be raifed to an affiitant at 25I. per year, afterwards a fe-cond at 40I. per year ; and from thence to the exalted Station of a Governor, at 150I. per year. To this I would reply, that I am enabled to fay, from the eleven years fervice which I palfed through in their employ, that the profpect. of afcending this important ladder is very faint indeed. But even allowing the youth to be fortunate enough, by alliduity or favour, to fucceed to promotion in this fervice, he is not even then exempt from labour and menial duty -y for every perfon in the Factories, except the Governor ( J23 ) Governor and furgeon, mull cjccafionally go to hard work and fhould he'object to this ufage, and beg for milder employment, in the moft fubmifiive terms, it will have no effect on the Governor, who in all probability, will not only increafe the difficulties of the complainant, by every feries of fevers treatment, but fend him home to the Company with a bad character; reprefenting that he is unfit for their fervice, having re-fufed his duty. Such is the ufual progrefs of the fervitudc of their apprentices; and fo little is the probability of the young men reaping any advantage from i$ It ( I24 ) It being fo nearly connected with the Subject I am upon, I lhall fubjoin the following account of the taking of the Hudfon's Bay Company's Settlements by the French, as it was publilhed in the Morning Chronicle of April 1783. " To the Editor of the Morning Chronicle and Daily Advertiser. "SIR, lork Fort. ct As I have not obferved in any of the news-papers an account of the capture of the Hudfon's Bay Company's fettlements, except a tranflation of Monf. La Peroufe's letter to the French Marine Minifter, I am induced to lay before the public the following facts, founded upon truth, and recorded by my own experience. " The firft notice we had of an enemy's being on the coaft, was on the 20th of Au-guft, 1782, in the evening, at which time the Company's fhip was lying in the roads, and and had been there five days, without having the leaft intimation of this event, although Monf. La Peroufe, by his own account, had been founding Port Nelfon river on the 18th. The next day, Auguft 21, the weather being extremely fine and calm, it afforded the enemy an opportunity to land their men with fafety, which they attempted in four-teen boats, provided with mortars, cannon, fcaling ladders, and about three hundred men, exclufive of marines. preffed their forrow by fighs and tears. <£ Whatever opinion the French might entertain of us on account of our timidity, it is but juftice to fay, that they behaved to their eafy acquired prifoners, with that po-litenefs which is peculiar to their nation. Monf. Le Peroufe, the commander of Le Sceptre, was an honour to his nation, and an ornament to human nature. His polite-nefs, humanity, and goodnefs, fecured him the affection of all the Company's officers; and on parting, at the mouth of Hudfon's* ftraits, they felt the fame fenfation which the deareft friends feel in an interview preceding a long feparation. His humane difpolition was more particularly confpicu- ous in leaving a repohtory of ammunition, 6cc. for the poor Indians, who otherwifer muff, have experienced great inconveniences and diftrefs. " Though the French fuftained no lofs from us during their attack of York Fort, yet, through the Severity of the climate, and" theiF ( '35 0 their own inexperience, they loft five large boats, a confiderable quantity of merchandize, and fifteen foldiers, who were drowned in Hay's river, after the place was furren-deredi The Company fuffered great Jofs by the capture of this place ; which had remained in their porTeffion unmolefted fince the peace of Utrechti The whole of the fhip's outward bound cargo was entirely burnt and deftroyed, together with a confiderable quantity of provifions, ftores &c. which had been collecting for about feventy years. *' If the above account finds a place in your entertaining paper, I lhall embrace the firft opportunity of fending you an account of the capture of Prince of Wales Fort." Churchill Churchill River. Mr. Editor, " According to my promife I now fend you the account of the capture of Prince of Wales, or Churchill Fort, on the N. W. coaft of Hudfon's Bay, which I received from a gentleman, who was upon the fpot at the time, and on whofe veracity I can depend. i€ The French vifited this place before York Fort, on account of its Northern fitu-ation, and the general prevalency of winds from that quarter, thinking to take the advantage of them in going to the Southward. Accordingly the three fhips appeared before the Fort on Auguft 8, 1782, at a time when the Governor was very bufy trading with fome Indians who were juft arrived : but the fight of fuch unexpected vifitors did not fail to engage the "attention of the Factory people, who were not ufed to fee fo many flrangers in thefe feas. " At " At this time, which v/as about fix o'clock in the evening, the enemy had eaft anchor within five miles of the Fort, and in a little time afterwards appeared very induftrious in founding the river, even within mufquet fhot of the place; and I have heard the Governor declare, that their officers went about the Factory avenues, fhooting birds, with the greateft indifference; a convincing proof that they did not conceive themfelves to be in much danger. The Fort at this time mounted forty-two cannon, fix, twelve, and twenty-four pounders, was provided with ammunition in great plenty, and the Factory was not in immediate want of provifions of any kind. The ftrength of the Fort itfelf was fuch as would have refilled the attacks of a more confiderable force; it was built of the ftrongefl materials, its walls were of great thicknefs, and very durable, it having been forty years in building, and attended with great ex-pence to the Company. In fhort it was the opinion of every intelligent perfon, that it might have made an obftinate reliftance when attacked, had it been, as well provided J 3 in ( 1)1 ) in other refpects; but through the impolitic conduct: of the Company, every courageous exertion of their fervants mull: have been confidered as imprudent temerity y for this place, which would have required four hundred men for its defence, the Company, in their confummate wifcjom, had garrjfoned with only thirty-nine. About three o'clock in the morning Aug. 9, the enemy began to difembark their troops, at a place called Hare-Point; from whence they marched in a regular manner towards the Factory, until they arrived within about four hundred yards, when they made a halt, and fent two officers from the main body, with a fummons to the Governor to furrender the place. The Governor and two of his officers met them half way, when all difficulties that obftru&ed the negotiation were fpeedily overcome, to the fatisfaction of both parties. In confequence of this verbal agreement, the French, to the amount of about four hundred men entered the Fort, at fix o'clock in the morning, when the Britifh flag ( 139 )-flag was lowered, and a table cloth from the Governor's table hoisted in its ftead. " Every part now exhibited a fcene of devastation and ruin for the licentious foldiery, finding they were not restricted by a capitulation, began to plunder whatever came in their way. It mult, however, at the fame time be acknowledged, that the officers took every opportunity to deprefs this fpirit in the common foldiers, with great humanity and addrefs ; politely fympathjzing with the Sufferers in the inevitable diftreffes attending the fortune of war. The remainder of this, and the following day, were fpent in demo-lifhing the works belonging to the fortifications, Shipping on board fundry articles of ftores, provisions, and a valuable quantity of peltry, which if the Company had received would have indemnified them for all their other lotTes conjointly. " On the nth, the three fhips fet fail for York-Fort; but about five o'clock in the morning, a fail was obferved apparently fleering for Churchill, which was now in flames. I 4 One One of the frigates was .ordered to chace. The experience of her commander was, however, fo inadequate to the tafk of coping with the (kill of theEnglifh Captain, that if hp had perfevered he would probably have been led into fuch 4 labyrinth of fhoal water and rocky ground, as might have made him repent his vifit to Hudfon's Bay. Accordingly the Frenchman gave up the purfuit about feven o'clock in the evening, after firing a bow chace from an eighteen pounder, which he found had no other effect, than, if pofiible, to make the Englishman go falter than before. f' I would juft remark, that Churchill Settlement was by much the bell: ever erected in Hudfon's Bay. The Company ufually have their Factories built with logs of pine, which are fquared, and laid one upon another; but this building was entirely of free-ftone; the artillery was in admirable condition ; and the fortifications were moll Skilfully planned under the, infpection of the ingenious Mr. Robfon, who went out in 1742 for that purppfe. *? While " While the trade of the other fettlements had been upon the decline for fome years, this place had in general held its former medium, and of late years considerably in-creafed. Notwithstanding the advantages of fo flourishing a fettlement to the Company, their extreme parfimony would not permit them to have above one man to a gun, even in the midff of a precarious war. What folly could be more egregious, than to erect a fort of fuch extent, Strength, and ex-pence, and only allow thirty-nine men to defend it ? The force which the French fent into Hudfon's Bay was more than fuf-iicient to reduce every place in the country, weakly defended as they were. This place, in particular, with fo few men, was totally incapable of withstanding the well directed efforts of fo Strong an armanent, efpecially as the depth of water in the river would admit the largeSt Ships to lie very near the Fort; and bombs may be ufed with great effect. *« Notwithstanding the Governor muff, Jiave been fenfible of his inability to make an an obftinate defence, his conduct: was in fome refpeets highly reprehenfible. In the firft place, he fhould have fent an exprefs to York Fort, over land, by the Indians, with information of an enemy's arrival. Had he done fo, the people at that fettlement would have had five days more at leaft. to prepare themfelyes for fo unexpected an event. Secondly, he fhould have deftroyed the papers of the matter of the floop, who was then to the Northward upon a trading voyage. By the poffeflion of thefe papers, the enemy acquired a complete defcription of York Fort, with an account of its weaknefs on the land fide, which induced them to try their fuccefs that way. Thirdly, his timidity in quietly fuffering a known enemy to be founding the river, as it were, under his nofe, without oppofition, was not, I think I may venture to fay, confiftent with that fortitude which ought to actuate a Briton, in the fervice of his country. Remarks Remarks and Observations made in the Inland Parts o/* Hudson's Bay during Four Tears Refidence in thofe Unknown Regions. In June 1783, I landed at Quebec; and in May 1784, I left the city of Montreal, to penetrate into the interior parts. This we did in canoes made of birch-rind, of about four tons burthen each, and navigated by eight Canadians, who are, without doubt, the befl qualified for this very laborious navigation, which is continually obftru&ed by fhoals, rapids, and the moll: tremendous cataracts. In about one month we arrived at the falls of St. Mary, which form a junction of the lakes Superior and Huron. As the fur merchants in Canada began to be alarmed this year, on account of the partition line eftabliihed by the late peace* apprehending that the key of the interior country, fituated on the bottom of lake Superior, perior, would thereby fall within the American boundary, I was pitched upon to pur-fue an unknown tract in order to explore another palfage into the interior country, independant of the old one known by the name of the Great Carrying-Place. I accordingly fat out for that purpofe, and fuc-ceeded in my expedition much to the fatis-faction of the merchants ; but as the Amer ricans have not yet been able to obtain pof-feffion of thofe Weftern pofts on the lakes, ceded to them by the late peace, the traders ftill continue the old route. When the goods arrive at the Great Cai> rying Place, they are embarked in Canoes of fmaller dimeniions, the navigation being ftill more intricate ; and here they meet the winterers who are returning with furs traded in the courfe of the preceding winter. Not lefs than one thoufand Canadians and Europeans are employed by the merchants in this bufinefs, who are incorporated under the firm of the North-Weft Company, befides perhaps as many more who go to Detroit on ;he fur trade, and return to Montreal with beaver beaver fkins, deer fkins, Sec. to a great amount. Upwards of four thoufand packs are produced from the whole trade annually, which confumes a great quantity of Britilh merchandize, of the moft inferior quality, and which perhaps would hardly find a market elfewhere. In the following remarks on the inland parts,agreat fimilarity will be found between the Indians living on the coaft of Hudfon's Bay, and thofe inland, termed the Nehe-thawa Indians: in fact they were originally the fame people, but as numbers have receded from the fea coaft to partake of a more fruitful clime, they have fuffered fome alteration in their manners and cuftoms. Of ( M ) Of the Face of the Country, its Soil* Climate, and Natural Productions* I parled the winters of the years 1784, I785,1786, and 1787, on a large river, which empties itfelf by many branches into that lake which is laid down in maps by the name of lake Bourbon. This lake was improperly fo called by the French, when in polfemon of Canada; but its real name is the Cedar lake, and it is thus named by the Indians, on account of that kind of wood being found thereon. In the year 17 87j when the following remarks were made, I winter'd in the computed latitude of 55 deg. N. and Latitude 120. deg. W. from the meridian of London. I cannot fufficiently lament the opportunity I have loft of giving to a certainty the geographical Situation of the place, for the want of necelfary instruments. As this cannot be repaired, I mult endeavour to compensate for it by communicating fuch facts as as have come to my knowledge, either thro* the channel of perfonal experience, or confidential information. The courfe of the river was nearly eaft, and I wintered about feven hundred miles above its difcharge into the" cedar lake. Its current is very regular, and in the whole difiance, we have but one place where the paffage is in the leaft impeded by rapids; and even this place is very trifling, and eafily paffed with proper care. Every part of this river, where the channel is wide, is much incommoded by fand banks and fhoals. The fhores and bed of it are muddy, and confequently the water is very dirty. What I have often thought worthy of obfervation during my ftay here, has been the very fudden and rapid rife of the water in the river during the fummer months, and this without any apparent caufe, or extraordinary rains. In the Summer of 1786 I obferved the water to rife ten feet perpendicular in the fpace of twenty-four hours; thence it fubfided gradually to its ufual height; and then rapidly rofe as before. This rifing of the water drowns alJ the Country about the bottom bottom of the river, where the banks are uncommonly low; and it frequently happens, that the people who navigate the traders canoes are obliged to ileep in them, for want of a place to put afhore. This river has feveral kind of fifli in it, and Sturgeon in the fpring of the year are in great plenty. Its diftance above Us is not known; but by Indian information, we learn, that it is formed from a great number of fmall rivers which iffue from an extraordinary ridge of Rocks, called the Stony Mountain. This mountain is the mofc. remarkable place in the country, and appears to be the barrier between the Indians that trade with us and thofe who trade with Strangers on the other fide. I have been told that it is feven days journey before you arrive at it. We are unacquainted with its extent at prefent, but it feems to have a North and South direction. It is faid that all the rivers on the Eaft fide of the mountain have an eaft-erly courfe, and thofe on the Weft fide take a weft- a wefterly courfe ; the latter muff evidently fall into the South feas. About two hundred and Seventy miles below where I wintered, or about four hundred and thirty miles from its mouth, two branches unite in one; of thefe one is called the South branch, and the other the North branch. As I am the belt acquainted with the latter, 1 confine myfelf particularly to it in this defcription. I muff not omit one particular relating to this river, which is the great quantity of Coal conveyed down by the current. I am of opinion that abundance of this mineral muft be in the country above us, as a perfon once brought me down a piece he had taken from the earth, where it was piled up in heaps. And it was in every refpecr. fimilar to that brought to London from the North of England and Scotland. He told me that he alked the Indians the ufe of it; and on their expreffing their ignorance, he put fome of it in the fire which burnt violently to their great aftonimment. However plenty it may be inland, it is certain there is K no no want of it near the river, from the great quantity left on the fhoals. What other treafures may be concealed in this unknown repofitory, or what valuable ores may be intermixed with the coal, I will not take upon me to determine. AH the lower country near the river for a confiderable distance, affords no other wood than willows, and a few fmall poplars. The land is exceeding marfhy, and abounds with all kinds of aquatic birds in the fpring and autumn. Higher up, the banks of the river are Steeper, and pines become frequent, which are intermixed with a few infignificant elm and birch trees. All thefe countries are well ftored with moofe, beavers, otters, &c. but the red deer, jumping deer, and buffalo, are not to be found till you are confiderably higher up the river, where the country becomes more open, and fo free from woods, that in many places fcarce a fufficiency can be procured to make a temporary fire for travellers, who are obliged instead thereof to ufe buffalo dung. During the winter, diflant journies become dangerous, as the ( 'S» ) the tempeftupus weather often raifes fnow drifts. Difficulties arifing from thence are not to be obviated by ftrangers, but the natives feldom meet with any accidents through thefe obstructions, their innate knowledge of the country guiding them unerringly to the fpot they would wifh to reach. Many fpacious lakes are to be found in the inland parts. Moft of thefe abound with fifh, efpecially when joined to a river; but the natives feldom or never look after them, and the greater part of thofe Indians who came to our fettlements to trade, will neither eat fifh, water-fowl, nor any amphibious animal. How far the foil of this boundlefs country may be favourable to the culture of vegetables, I am not enabled to advance. Experiments, which mould be our only guide to knowledge in thefe matters, never having been much made ufe of: but if the opinion of an unexperienced perfon, could be of any weight, I think I may venture to fay, that many parts would admit of cultivation. K 2 The The Hudfon's Bay Company fervants have tried Indian corn and barley, by way of experiment, which came to perfection; Potatoes, Turnips, Carrots, Radifhes, Onions, &c. have been lately reared, and found as good as thofe in Canada; and indeed, in forming a comparifon between the two countries, the advantage feems to incline to the one I am defcribing. It is true we are fituated a few degrees more to the Northward, and about fifty degrees to the Weltward of Quebec, but in the four years experience I have had, I have not yet found a winter fo fevere, as one I pafifed near Montreal, where the . weather is generally fomething milder than about Quebec. The cold fets in, and the river ice breaks up, much about the fame time as it does there. The fruits which fpontaneouily fhoot up, are not in fuch great variety in the wil-derneffes of Canada, as in the country I am fpeaking of. The natives collect vaft quantities of a kind of wild cherries and bring them in for fale. The Hudfon's Bay people make an excellent beverage of them, which is grateful to the tafte, and is an excellent antifcorbutic. Rafpberries, ftrawberries, currants, cranberries, and an infinity of other kinds which I know not the names of, are to be found every where. So that a perfon, without the help of ammunition, may in the fummer feafon procure a very comfortable fubfiffence, were he bewildered, and alone. Should any one be in this Situation, almoft every pond of water would furnifh him with eggs of ducks, &c. and every thicket with a fatiety of delicious fruit. In vallies and humid fituations, the grafs grows to a great height, which fattens our horfes in a Short time; but the buffalo ufu-ally makes choice of hilly, dry ground, to feed on, the blades of grafs on which are fmall, fhort and tender. When a numerous herd of thefe animals flay any length of time in one place, the ground is abfolutely barren there for the remainder of the feafon, the grafs being eat off as clofe as if fhaved with a knife. It It may not be amifs in this place, to mention fomething of the makes and frogs, which take up their refidence in the ponds of this country. Thefe ponds become putrid after a long drought. The makes are of a green colour, with longitudinal white lines from the head to the extremity of the tail. They are fo very inoffenfive, that the Indians frequently play with them, and will tie them in knots round their necks. Whether thefe reptiles, like the frogs, lie in a torpid ftate during the winter, I cannot fay, but I have frequently found their Ikins dried by the fun, which were hollow, but in other refpecls they were complete. The frogs refume their existence and faculties in the month of May; when the genial warmth of the fun invigorates them afrem. At this time they vent forth a moft hideous croaking, day and night, and they are particularly chearful in rainy weather. The appearance of the frogs gives name to the month of May among the Nehethawa Indians. The ( 155 ) The climate, is very perceptibly milder here than in the parts on the fea coaft. The fnow is not half fo deep, neither are the hotteft days in fummer fo fultry. On the other hand, the animals in the upper country are not fo liberally Supplied with warm cloathing, as thofe of the lower country. The martins and other peltries of courfe are not fo valuable. Nature, who fupplies all her children according to their feveral necefli ties, makes a wide difference in the covering of the brute creation, proportioning it to the Severity of the weather they have to refift; even the partridge in the lower country is not neglected; his legs and feet being covered with feathers in the fame manner as the body. If a man is frozen in the upper country, it is owing to his not having taken proper care of himfelf; whereas upon the fea coaft, with every neceffary precaution, a man will frequently have his nofe, face, or finger-ends fkinned. The heavens, in cold winter nights, do not exhibit that luminous appearance, which, as before remarked, is obfervable on the fea K 4 coaft; coaft; nor do the Mars fhine with that re-» fulgent luftre. The Aurora Boreal is is not fo common nor fo brilliant; the Parhelia and Parafelenes are lefs frequent. Fogs in the winter, are.unknown ; whereas upon the coaft, the fun will be obfcured for weeks together ; and every tree, &c. to leeward, will be encrufted over with this unwholefome effluvia, which the cold converts into rime. In fhort, the two countries will admit of no comparifon: one is temperate and healthy, the land is dry, pleafant, and fertile in fpontaneous productions, and the animal creation is various and excellent for the fupport of man : in it, a perfon who could live retired, might pafs his days with eafe, content, and felicity, and if he did not enjoy an uninterrupted ftate of health, it would not be the fault of the air he lived in. On the other hand, the lower country is one endlefs bog, where the favage animals themfelves are fometimes conftantly fwampt. The ( W ) The fineft fummer's day will begin with a Scorching heat, and terminate with a cold * eafterly fea fog. The weather ufually incident to autumn and midfummer, is experienced in their different extremes during the fhort fpace of twelve hours. The inhabitants frequently fall a prey to the feverity of the froft. The whole country furnifhes but one fpecies of quadruped fit for the fupport of man; and the Europeans are accurfed with an afflicting epidemical diforder, which they very emphatically term the *'* The Country Diftemper." Of the Animals, &c. of this Country. A Defcription of the Buffalo, and Buffalo Pound. Of all the numerous tribes of quadrupeds in this extenfive country, the Buffalo undoubtedly merits a primary defcription ; not only on account of its being the moll numerous, but likewife for the great utility , every every part of it might be converted to, if ever this tract fhould be eflablifhed. From the nofe to the root of the tail, a full grown male is about ten feet long; the hair on the back is of a brown colour, but on the legs, neck, and head is inclinable to black; from the lower lip, to the breafl, a tuft of hair hangs down about a foot long; on the hinder part of the neck is an exuberance of fiefh, or hunch, which is efleemed the moft delicious part of the animal, and which much augments an appearance that is at beft, moft. hideous. The male Buffalo is exceeding ferocious when wounded, elpecially in the copulating feafon, and frequently proves fatal to the Indians themfelves. They herd together in thofe fpacious plains, which it is probable extend to the South Seas. The female admits the male in July, and brings forth in the month of March or April following. The horns are black, curved inwards, and a-bout a foot long; they fometimes fall off from the old females, but the males retain them them to the lafl. The weight of a full grown male is about one thoufand pounds Englifh, and the flefh, at leafl of the Cows, equally efteemed with our European beef. The old Bulls have no hair on them Summer or winter, for which reafon they feek the woods ; yet are neverthelefs fometimes frozen in fevere feafons. Altogether, the Buffalo is of an appearance truly frightful; the Bulls in particular; which the great quantity of hair about the head, and the hunch contributes much to augment. Should this inland country ever be eflablifhed, and manufacturers fettled therein, every part of this animal would turn to account : as for tallow, hides, hair, horns and hoofs. They might alfo be tamed to the plough; and that with the greatefl facility, by taking them young in the month of April or May, which a man who is fwift of foot may do without the afliflance of a horfe. The The Buffalo Pound. The Indians have various ways of killing the Buffalo ; one of which is by cautioufly approaching them when feeding. The hunter upon this occafion lies on his belly, and will fometimes fire his gun forty or fifty times without railing the herd. They alfo pur-fue them on horfeback, and fhoot them with arrows and guns. But the means by which the greateft numbers are taken, is by making a pound, which is conffxucted in the following manner :— " They are either of a circular or fquare form, and differ according to the manner of the nation by whom they are made. The fquare ones are compofed of trees laid on one another, to the height of about five feet, and about fifty on each fide of the fquare. On that fide at which the animals are intended to enter, a quantity of earth is laid, to the height of the conftru&ion, fo as to form a hill of an eafy afcent of about twenty feet. This done, a number of branches of trees Flaw of a, BuJ'i'doPoaiul. T trees are placed, from each fide of the front, in a Strait line from the raifed hill, for about one hundred feet in length, continually in-crealing in width, fo that though the inward ends of thefe lines of branches are no more more than fifty feet afunder, the exterior end will exceed two hundred feet. After this, a number of poles, nearly fifteen feet long each, are placed at about twelve feet diffance from each other, with a piece of Buffalo dung on the top, and in a Strait line from the boughs abovementioned. At the foot of each pole a man lies concealed in a Buffalo fkin, to keep the animals in a ftrait direction to the pound. Thefe poles are placed alike on each fide, always increafing in breadth from one fide to the other, and decreasing in the fame proportion as the animals approach the pound. Every preparation being now made, three or four men fet off on foot to find a herd of Cows; for the Bulls they think not worth their trouble. Thefe they drive eaiily along, till they arrive within the vicinity of the pound, when one man is difpatched to give notice to the other Indians, who immediately alfemble on horfeback on each fide the herd, keeping keeping a proper distance, for fear of frightening the animals. By this means they arc conducted within the exterior line of poles. It frequently happens that they will endeavour to go out; to prevent which, the men who are placed at the foot of each pole, make their Ikins, which drives the herd to the op-polite fide, where the others do the fame: fo that at laSt they arrive at the pound, and fall in headlong one upon another, fome breaking their necks, backs, &c. And now the confufion becomes fo great within, that though the height of the building lhall not exceed five feet, none will make their efcape. To elucidate this defcription of the Buffalo-Pound, I have roughly fketched the annexed diagram. The Moose. This animal is numerous, according to the Situation of places they frequent; and mountainous land is ufually made choice of by them. The hair is inclinable to black. The Full-grown Moofe, is about the fize of a large horfe, with lofty palmated horns, which fall ( i&3 > fall off in December or January. They engender in the month of September or October, bring forth in May, and have from one to three at a birth. The Moofe eats no grafs, but fubfifts chiefly on the young branches of willows and poplars. They are not very plenty in the parts I have defcribed, and it is but feldom that above two are met with in one place. The meat of the Moofe is juftly efteemed for its excellence. The Red Deer. The Red Deer is next in fize to the Moofe, but it is not equal to it in its delicious flavour, on account of the peculiar quality in the fat, which turns cold fo very fait, that a perfon mult eat it the inftant it is taken from the fire; and even then the mouth is fometimes lined with a greafe of the consilience of tallow. The hair is of a reddiHi colour. The rofe buds are much eiteemed by the Red Deer, which, with young willows, poplars, and grafs, constitute its food. The female receives the male, and brings forth at the fame time with the Moofe, and produces ( i64 ) produces one and fometimes two at a time. The horns are not palmated like that animal, but are round, branched and lofty, and fall off in March.. Thefe animals are very numerous in moft parts of the country, and they affociate in herds ; it is not uncommon to find five or fix hundred in a place, but they are not to be met with in the open fpacious plains where the Buffalos refort. Jumping Deer. This animal, though not half the lize, of the Red Deer, is not the fmallefl of the fpe-cies. The one under defcription receives its name from the lingular manner of its courfe; this is by a continual fucceflion of jumps, which they perform with amazing celerity, Springing at the diftance of fifteen or fixteen feet at each jump. It is a fmall clean-made animal, exceeding lively and gay, and is of a brown colour intermixed with grey hairs. Its food confifts of grafs, of the fallen leaves' of the poplar, the young branches of different kinds of trees, and the mofs adhering to the pines. The horns are about two feet long, and refemble thofe of the preceding animal, animal, except in fize; they fall off in the month of April. This handfome animal ruts in November, brings forth in May, and has one and fometimes two at a birth. It is needlefs to add that the flefh is delicious. There are two kinds of the Jumping Deer, one of which has a very fhort tail like the reft of the fpecies, whereas the other kind has a tail about a foot long, and covered Writh red hairs. Apis-to-chik-o-shtsh. I am- not Sufficiently converfant in the fcience of Zoology to give this beautiful animal its proper name in the Englifli language j perhaps it has never yet been defcribed in natural hiitory. The French people refident in thefe parts, call it the Gu Blanc, from a white mark on its rump. A more-beautiful creature is not to be found in this or perhaps any other country. Extreme delicacy of make, arid exact Similarity of proportion j are obfervable in all its parts. No animal here is fo fwift of foot: not the fleeteft horfe or dog can approach it. They herd together in L large large droves, but fometimes three or four only are found in a place. Its horns are not offified like the other fpecies, nor are they branched. Both male and female have them, but they never fall off: they refemble more the horns of the Goat than thofe of the Deer fpecies. They feed upon moft kinds of grafs, and the tender twigs of trees. The whole length may be about four feet and a half; the legs are white and flender; the reft of the body of a light red, with a white fpace on the rump. At the Stony Mountain and parts adjacent, other cornuted animals are found which are entirely unknown to us here. People that I have converfed with on this Subject, who have been there, defcribe a kind of Goat; and alfo an animal which refembles our Sheep, the horns of the male of which bear a great Similarity to thofe of the Ram. I have feen large ladles made of thefe horns, fome of which would contain two quarts of water. Without doubt, if the inland parts were explored by a perfon of ingenuity, many ufeful difcoveries might be made in every branch of Nature's operations, as well relating tog to the vegetable as the animal world; but unfortunately thofe mercantile gentlemen who have hitherto been fent into this Terra incognita have been fo very intent upon the pecuniary emolument, arifing from the trade they are engaged in, as intirely to neglect every effort to obtain a knowledge of the country and its productions; though fuch an undertaking would be attended with little or no expence, and would certainly redound much to their honour, if not to their profit. Having given a brief account of fuch of the four-footed tribe as contribute to the fupport of the inhabitants of the country, it will be neceffary to mention the carnivorous animals to be met with; as alfo the amphibious ones. Under the former head we have1 Bears, two fpecies of Wolves, Lynxes, Foxes, Wolverins, &c. but as thefe have frequently been very particularly defcribed, I mall give but a concife account of each, viz; Bears are of three kinds;—the black, the red, and the grizzle Bear. The former is me leaft offenfive, and, when taken young, L 2 the the moft docile and fufceptible of kind ufage. As to the other kinds, their nature is favage and ferocious, their power is dangerous, and their haunts to be guarded againft. The numbers of maimed Indians, to'be feen in this country, exhibit a melancholy proof of their power over the human fpecies. A Canadian, laft fummer had his arm lafcerated in a dreadful manner by one of thefe deftructive animals : yet if a man is mounted upon a good horfe, he may attack one with fuccefs ; nor will they always fall on a perfon unprovoked. They feed upon berries, roots and flefh. In fummer they travel about, but in winter they live in a ftate of inanimation in fome re-cefs under ground, and fuftain nature by fucking their paws. » Wolves are exceedingly numerous in this inland country; where they find a plentiful fubfiftence from the carcafes of wounded Buf-falos, and others which are left and killed by the natives. They are taken in traps and mares. The Indians likewife (hoot them in the following manner: A Buffalo being killed, and cut in pieces over night, the Indians ( i«9 ) dians appear at the place the next morning on horfeback, where they find the Wolves lb over-gorged with eating, as to be incapable of retreating, fo that they become an eafy prey to the hunters. The Wolf is very voracious, and will confume an enormous quantity of food in a fhort time; but then he will go a confiderable time without any kind of fubfiflence whatever, The fkin becomes in feafon about the beginning of December; and the winter hair begins to fall off about the latter end of March, after the feafon of copulation is over. They are not fo large as thofe found on the fea fhore at Hudfon's Bay, nor are their fkins fo well covered with a warm fur. The Wolves are polfelfed of much cunning and addrefs in procuring food: in particular they will chace the Red Deer in a direct courfe to a precipice, when that creature being on full fpeed, and not forefee-ing its danger, falls down with great force, and is inevitably killed, or prevented from making his efcape. Lynxes are fometimes met with in the upper country, but fo rarely that I cannot with L 3 any any propriety rank it among the quadruped inhabitants of it. Foxes are not found here in fuch plenty or variety as on the fea coaft, and it is heed-lefs to add, that the fur is of an inferior quality. There is a fpecies of fmall Red Foxes here which is not an inhabitant of thefe frigid regions.. They fubfifl on mice, and any kind of carrion which the fagacity of their fmell may guidekthem to. The fcecun-dity of the Fox is remarkable, notwithstanding which, they are not numerous. Wo l v e r i n s are fcarce in thefe parts. This beaft is as much addicted to peculation and cunning as any of the carnivorous animals whatever. He choofes rather to attempt the destruction of the trap than to enter into it. No Indian hoards of provisions are feeure from his difcovery. He afcends trees with the greateft facility; and if he is not able to deftroy the whole of the repository, he will hide the reft in as many places as there are pieces in the hoard. Ijuft ( 17' ) I juft mention thefe animals, rather to Signify tha* they are natives of this country, than to attempt a defcription of them, which is already well known. For the fame reafon it is neceffary to add, that the Fimer, Martin, Mink, Badger, American and Alpine Hares, Ground and Wood Squirrels, Ermines, Mufk Rats, &c. are found here. The amphibious animals are Beavers and Otters. The ingenuity of the former in building their houfes, flopping the current of rapid Creeks, and felling large trees, cannot be Sufficiently admired. The Beaver is of a very docile difpofition, and when taken young and properly brought up, may be made to difcover a very faithful and affectionate regard for his keeper. I once poffefTed a young male which, after a month's keeping, would follow me about like a dog; and when I had been abfent from him for a couple of hours, he would fhew as much joy at my return as one of the canine fpecies could pof-fibly do. It was embarked on board a fhip jn Hudfon's Bay, and arrived in England; but L 4 was ( ) was foon after killed by an Efquimaux dog, which was likewife fent home as a curiofity. Birds local and migratory. Thofe who winter with' us, are a few fpecies of the Hawk and Owl genus, the Butcher-bird, the Magpye, and Raven, the Pheafant and two kinds of Partridges : but where I wintered we had not any of the Ptarmigans which are fo numerous on the fea-coaft of Hudfon's Bay. A few of them are however to be found more to the fouthward, though of a diminutive fize. The country being fo well ftored with animals of the larger kind, to Supply its inhabitants with food, it is but feldom the feathered game are disturbed. Notwithstanding which they are far from being numerous : and what is very remarkable, and exhibits at once the foitering hand of the God of nature, is—That in thofe parts of the country, where the larger animals are the moSt rare, Partridges, Rabbets, 6cc. are in the greatest, plenty ; whereas in thofe parts where ( m ) the Moofe, Deer, and Buffalo are innumerable, fcarce any are to be found. In the month of April birds of paffage begin to vifit thefe countries. Of the migratory tribe the Eagle is the firffc feen, and from which the month of March takes its name among the Ne-heth-aw-a Indians. There are two fpecies of fwans. Geefe are in all the variety to be found in any other country; as the large Grey-goofe, Canada Geefe, Snow Geefe, Laughing Geefe, &c. Ducks, Loons, and every other kind of aquatic birds that are to be met with in America, are likewife found here. An ornithological defcription of thefe different fpecies would not only intrude upon my daily avocations, but is an undertaking to which I candidly acknowledge my abilities are not adequate. All I have propofed to myfelf in committing thefe remarks to paper, is to inform thofe who wifli to be informed, that the inland parts of Hudfon's Bay is a fine country j-*-is amply Supplied by nature Nature with molt things fufHcient for the fupport of man and beaft, either in a wandering or fettled ft ate,—and that it is a part of the world which has long, too long, been neglected by thofe whofe duty to their country, ought to have urged them to explore it. If this had been done, manifold would have been the advantages which would have re-fulted from their laudable refearches. Had this been done, the diftance to the fouthern ocean long e're this might have been afcer-tained;—alliances have been formed with unknown nations of Indians -y—the productions of the country been known;—and perhaps the certainty of a north-weft palfage developed. Among the birds of pahage, who viiit us in the fpring are many of the fmall vocal kind; which for beauty and diverfity of plumage, and the fweetnefs of their notes, may vie with thofe of more hofpitable climes, many of thefe little fongfters I have never feen any where elfe. I believe we have fe-yeral non-defcripts, and perhaps fome which are peculiar tq this country in the fummer. Among ( *75 ) Among the rarely-found birds here, the Humming Bird deferves a plaec. F I S H. All the fifh we were able to procure in the winter were caught in lakes, but in the fpring of the year, the river is known to a? bound with exquifite Sturgeon. Thofe taken in the lakes were Jack, Guiniads, Perch, and a very bony rim termed by the Englifh in thefe parts a fucker j all which are excellent in their kinds. The method of fiming in the winter feafon, when nature is bound up by the durable chains of intenfe froft, is by letting down a net under the ice, which is done without much difficulty, even though the ice mould be fix feet thick. An excellent fifh in taffe, and in appearance much like a Herring, was caught in the river with a hook and line in great numbers. On the whole, fifh are not fo numerous in the inland parts, as in thofe waters which join to the fea : however, if the finny creation are fcarce, nature has made up for this deficiency ( ) deficiency by Supplying a redundancy of the larger animals, which furnifh both food and raiment for the inhabitants of the country. Oj the Indians, their Cuftoms, &c. The Indians who come to our Trading-houfes in the parts before defcribed, are the only ones we have any acquaintance with, and even our knowledge of thefe, it mufl be owned, is very imperfect. Thofe who have hitherto refided here, have been too much actuated by the impetuous defire of accumulating wealth, to allot a fmall portion of their time to the advancement of ufeful knowledge, and indeed, to fpeak the truth, I have not yet met with one who had any more ingenuity than inclination to apply himfelf to a Subject which had no immediate prof-pedt of advancing his pecuniary concerns. On the other, or western fide of the Stony Mountain are many nations of Indians, utterly unknown to us, except by Indian information, which we cannot enough rely on to to julrify us in advancing for facts, what may, perchance, be founded in error and mifreprefentation. All I can fay for certainty is, that a principal nation of thefe Indians is known to us by the name of the Snake Indians. That all the other Indians we have received an account of go to war againff them every fummer. In thefe war excursions many female flaves are taken, who are fold to the Canadian traders, and taken down to Canada; contrary to the maxims of the Hudfon's Bay people, who never buy them nor give any encouragement to this kind of traffic. It may be faid that this commerce encourages the Indians to make war on each other for the fake of felling the captures : but this is not the cafe. It is no more in the power of the traders to hinder them from going to war, than it is of the Governor of Michilimacinac, who does all in his power annually to prevent it: and as for the captives they are rather happy in the change than otherwife; for if the conquerors had no profpect of making a profit by them, they would be all killed when taken; but by being conveyed to Canada they are taught the the principles of religion, and become ufeful members of fociety. That there are European traders fettled among the Indians from the other fide of the Continent is without a doubt. I myfelf have feen horfes with Roman capitals hurnt in their flanks with a hot iron. I likewife once faw a hanger with Spanilh words engraved on the blade. Many other proofs have been obtained to convince us that the Spaniards on the op-polite fide of the Continent make their inland perigrinations as well as ourfelves; but I have have been told by one of thefe Have women, that it is not peltry they come principally in quell ofi Thofe Indians from whom the Peltries are obtained are known to us by the following names, viz: The Ne-heth-aw~a Indians: The AJjinne-poetuc Indians: The Fall Indians * The Sujfee Indians. The Black-feet Indians* The Paegan Indians. The Blood Indians; Of the Ne-heth-aw-a Indians. This is the name they give to themfelves, and their language. They are fcattered over a very extenfive country, for which reafon they do not appear to be numerous, but were the different tribes to be collected, this nation would hold much greater influence among the others than they feem to do.— I am of opinion, that the Ochipawa Indians, defcribed by Carver, and inhabiting the countries to the fouth-eaflward, fprung from the fame original frock with the Ne-heth-aw-as. The great affinity of their language feems to confirm this conjecture; for a perfon acquainted with the principles of one language, can without difficulty make himfelf underftood to thofe who fpcak the other. Thefe two nations have always been in ftrict alliance with each other, and many of the Ochipawas live in a promifcuous manner among the Ne-heth-aw-as, and upon very friendly terms with them, their country feeing infinitely fuperior to many of their northern neighbours, who inhabit a much colder track, and are poor in the extreme. Of Of all the different nations in thefe parts, whom the Europeans have found out to vend their commodities to, the one under defcription is become the moft familiar. Their country being the loweft down on the river I have mentioned before, they have been the longeft acquainted with us, and confequently they are the moft debauched, inervated, and corrupted. For, as I have more than once obferved, we have hitherto wofully experienced that the favage race have always acquired more bad qualities than good ones from their intercourfe with Europeans.— This nation in particular become annually more difficult to deal with. Fraud, cunning, Indian fineffe, and every concomitant vice, is practifed by them, from the boy of twelve years of age, to the decrepid and infirm old man of four-fcore. Nothing is more applauded by them than fuccefsful peculation. Drunkennefs and theft are diftinguifhed accomplishments among all the nations; but this people ftands foremoft as the moft degenerate. It mult, however, be underftood, that the foregoing general outline of the Indian character racter relates more particularly to their over* reaching in trade; for where that is not concerned, you will find inftances of honefty and fidelity among them which would do honour to a people governed by the wifeft laws, and reft rained from the commiffion of every enormity by the force of religion. If the Savage commits murder, robbery, or any other crime of an injurious nature, the pangs of a guilty confcience may probably Upbraid him with the perpetration of the fact; yet he is fo far from fearing corporal danger from that fociety whofe peace he has disturbed, that he will range through the wild$ of a pathlefs country, and' feek a fubfift ence in whatever part he chodfes, Without fear of retaliation ; for the country being extenfive, he finds out a fpot to live in unmoleftecf, where1 the offended party cannot, or dare not, go in queit of hirm This inftance of Savage liberty is juft mei> tioned to exemplify to us that though the Indian is guilty of taking away the life of a fellow creature, though he glories in the commiffion of dexterous theft, and will with-M out out remorfe cxercife every injustice on his neighbour with impunity; yet, as he is not restrained by divine or human laws from thefe acts of outrage, nor does the idea of temporal and eternal punifhment excite compunction in his mind, furely thefe enormities are not of fo deep a dye as if committed by a man, whofe mind is enlightened, and who is fuppofed to have a more juft fenfe of the claims of fociety and the injunctions of religion. As I cannot too deeply imprefs the idea, I muff again repeat that the greateft pelt ever fent into any country to render miferable its devoted inhabitants, never could exceed the destructive introduction of fpirituous liquors among the Indians. Almolt every imperfection of their natures, and every mifery they undergo, may be traced up to this baneful fountain. It is, during the time of inebriation that the murderer lifts the bloody knife, or tomohawk, againlf the parent or friend; it is, during this temporary madnefs, that long-parfed injuries and forgotten jealoufies are recalled from oblivion; it is during this fatal intoxication, that orphans and widows are ( x83 ) are made friendlefs, and the only fupport of a large family laid low in an inftant. Their unconquerable attachment to fpirituous liquors keeps them in endlefs poverty ; for to obtain it they even fell the miserable cloathing off their backs. It is to be lamented that this evil feems rather to gain ground than otherwife; and can never be effectually remedied, but by the concurrence of the Traders conjointly. It would certainly be a laudable undertaking; and the advantages reverting to themfelves from it would be manifold. Their property and fervants would be more fecure, the Indians by increafing in numbers would procure a greater quantity of fkins, and the wars which ufually fubfifl between the different Tribes, would be lefs frequent and bloody. As a remarkable inftance of the honefty and fidelity which is yearly experienced from thefe Indians, I mention the following.—TheHud-fon's Bay traders who take up goods into the interior parts, annually, have occafion to employ Indians, as well in carrying up the ar- M 2 tides tides they barter with the natives, as in conveying down the furs purchafed the preceding year. An Indian with his wife will embark in his canoe four packs or pieces of fixty or feventy pounds each ; which he takes down through rivers [and lakes unfrequented, and known perhaps only to himfelf. In doing this it often happens that no other canoe is in company, and he confequently has the faireft opportunity poifible of going off with the property committed to his care, which probably would enable him to live in affluence for years to come. Nor would there be any poflibility of the owners difco-vering his retreat if he choofes to abfcond. And yet, notwithffanding the temptation is fo great, after a trial of fifteen years, it is a well-known fact, that not an inftance has tranfpired of any embezzlement being made : on the contrary, the whole of thefe little cargoes are delivered up with as much punctuality, as if their future welfare depended on their honefty. The only reward for this fingular fervice, which is a very confiderable faving to the Company, is the » value ( i8s > value of fix beaver fkins, paid for each pack or piece, and the further gratification of a fmall quantity of Englifh brandy; which they receive on their arrival at the fettlement. The Indians in the interior country are well made, and well featured; they are of a copper complexion, and few distorted or deformed objects are found among them. Their eon-ftitutions are naturally hale and diforders few. The Venereal difeafe is known to them, but the malady is not fo virulent as in our hemi-Sphere; and it is eafily overcome with roots of their own difcovery which they apply them-felves. I have not yet heard of any dying of -the diforder. They are more inclined to be of a lean habit of body than otherwife; a corpulent Indian is a much greater curiofity than a fober one. This may in a great meafure be imputed to the wandering ftate of life they lead, which requires much action, and frequent change of fituation. They are very friendly to thofe who act with propriety towards them; efpecially when far diftant from the Trading-houfes. M 3 Eve<-y Every winter the fervants of the Traders will be fcattered all over the country among different bands, and come in to their employers in the fpring, without the leaft violence being offered to their perfons or effects. An Indian's drefs is compofed of a pair of ftockings made of leather, dreft fine and pliable like fhammy -y a fort of loofe jacket, with fleeves of the fame kind ; and over all he throws a dreft Buffalo fkin or a blanket. The hair of the young men is tied in different forms, and their faces fometimes painted according to their different fancies, but the men advanced in years, feldom paint their face, or tye their hair. The drefs of the women differs not very materially from that of the men. When they can get cloth, they make a pair of fhort ftockings of it, alfo a kind of clofe coat and fleeves of the fame, with a blanket or Buffalo fkin over all. Caps are very feldom worn either by male or female ; but a dreft Fifher or Otter fkin is frequently put round the heads of the men, the major part of which hangs down the back. The young men employ the greater! part of their time in the care of their horfes, and in drefs and play. The country being fo Superabundantly fupplied with animals for food, little of their time is required to procure it. Tn the fummer feafon they either go to make war on their enemies, or ffay at home in a State of eafe and inaction. In their war excurfions, the old men, women and children Stay behind * in a place of fafety ; while the younger part of the tribe cautioufly approach the confines of their enemy's country. During their approach they make no fires, for fear of their adverfaries dif-covcring the fmoke j and they travel more in the night than in the day, that the dark-nefs may favour their attack. When the encampment of the enemy is discovered, they lie in ambufh for the remainder of that day, and whert they fuppofe all wrapt up in fleep, the Slaughter is began with a ferocity that Indian fury could alone infpire. Men, women and children all fall promifcu-oufly to fatiate the warrior's revenge, and M 4 compenfate compenfate the lofs of deceafed friendsj none are fpared but young girls, who are taken captive and fold to the Canadian Traders, and become thereby more happy than their Slaughtered parents had ever been. Notwithstanding the warrior ufes fo much addrefs to find his enemy unprepared, yet it fometimes happens that he is difcovered, and a fafe retreat becomes impracticable. In this dilemma both parties fight with great bravery, each fide being provided with coats of mail, made of many folds of dreft. leather, which are impenetrable to the force of arrows: they have alfo fhields, made of undrefl Buffalo hides, which they fhift about in the time of action with admirable dexterity and fkill. If but one man is killed, the engagement is at an end, and the lohng party betake themfelves to flight, to larnent their lofs at leifure. Some campaigns are wholly employed in Stealing horfes, and in committing depredations on each others property; but the invader often pays with his lif^ for his temerity. ( m ) Their horfes are of great fervice to the Indians in thefe expeditions, and are much efteemed by them. Many of the men mew more affection for their horfes than for their wives. The horfes bred here are varioufly coloured, like our Englifh horfes, and about the fize of thofe found in the north of Scotland and the Scottifh ifles. They were originally imported by the Spaniards on the weftern fide of the Continent, and it is but lately that they have become common among the Nehethawa Indians. Many broils and animofities among the natives, originate from a deiire of being in poffeffion of thefe animals. One party generally commences hoflilities by Stealing the horfes of their ad-verfaries, and they in return retaliate; fo that at length a mutual refentment takes place, and war becomes abfolutely neceffary. The religious ideas entertained by the Indians of thefe parl;s, like thofe before described, appear to be very abftrufe andcon-fufed. They feem to allow of a Supreme Being who dwells above, and whom they {uppofe to be the author of every blefling they they enjoy. They do not however invoke him to protect them, for they fay he is too good to caufe them any harm. On the other hand, the evil fpirit they admit of, is held by them in abhorrence and fear. They imagine that through his malevolence and contrivances, they are perpetually haunted by misfortunes; and they conceive, that he grudges them whatever they enjoy. , They therefore will not partake of any thing they fet a value on, without firft throwing a part into the fire for the evil fpirit. Many other fupernitious ideas are very prevalent amongft them; but they are too fimple to merit notice. The undulating motion of the Aurora Borealis, is fuppofed by them to be their departed friends, who are rejoicing in the regions of the bleffed. From this idea they feem to have apprehenlions of a future ftate. The Nehethawa Indians, like the tribes before mentioned, meafure numbers by de-cads, as one ten, two tens, three tens, 6tc. and 49 would be expreffed by faying 4 tens and 9, or 5 tens wanting one. They divide the year into thirteen moons, which are all expreflive of fome remarkable event at the time. The firft moon in the following lift came in on the 12th of December 1784, and was called by them Pou-arch-e-kin-e-fbim.—It is fo named from the wind blowing the brum from the pine tree. Ke-fha-pemem—or the Old Moon. Me-ke-fu-a-pefhem—or the Eagle Moon ; from thefe birds appearing about this time. Nis-cau-peihem—or the Goofe Moon. A-theck-a-pefhem—or the Frog Moon ; the frogs beginning to croak about this time. O-pin-e- ou-wa-o-pefhem -— fo called on account of birds laying their eggs about this time. O-bas-ka-wa-ho-a-pemem—on account of young birds being fledged at this time. O-pus-ko-a-pefhem—on account of birds molting their feathers. O-po- ho-a-pefhem—on account of birds taking their flight about this time. O-noch- Q-noch-a-ha-ta-a-peihem—on account of all the animals of the deer kind rutting at this time. O -poon-a-ha-to-a-pcffiem—on account of the rutting feafon being over. Cus-cut-ta-no-a-pefhem—on account of the rivers freezing at this time. A-theck-a-peu-a-pefhem—on account of the cold caufing rime to adhere to the trees. This Indian method of computing time is very palpably founded in error, and cannot be made to anfwer to our year, or twelve callender months, which bring round the year exactly. Whereas the Indian computation by moons falls fhort eleven days; confequently the moon which app-ared on the 12th of December 1784, would appear -about the firft of that month in the follow^ ing year, and fo on, having annually a retrograde motion of eleven days. Whether it be to remedy this, or, what is more probable, that they really think the year con-lifts of thirteen lunations, certain it is, they thruft in another moon. They do not, however, however, agree among themfelves, relative to the numbefof days each moon contains. The language of thefe people is concife, fmooth, and infinuating; and fo copious, that by one word, they will exprefs an idea, which would require three or four words to explain it, in the French or Englilh tongues. A Sufficiency is foon acquired to make onefelf understood, but to fpeak it with a fluent propriety, requires time and attention. Juglers and itinerant doctors are held in great reputation and reverence by the Indians, who impute to divine infpiration, the bungling performance of a few legerdemain tricks. It is not uncommon for thefe juglers to pretend to dive into the abyfs of futurity ; to foretel the fuccefs of a war expedition ; and very gravely to point out the place where the enemy are to be found. Thefe gentry are always poifeSfed of more property than the others, every one making them prefents for administering their medicines, which confiSf of a variety of powdered roots, &c. The bag in which the holy medicine medicine is depofited, is held in particular-veneration, and it would be an unpardonable facrilege for any woman to touch it ; for which reafon the men in their journies bear themfelves the facred repofitory. Some of thefe curious performers of deception will pretend to lay eggs, and fwal-low wooden pipe items, as large as walking fticks. They will tell you very feriouily, that they are able to make rum, tobacco, cloth, &c. but whenever we put their dexterity to the trial, we always difcovered the deception. We took care always not to let them know that we had done fo, for fear of lowering them in the eiteem of their credulous followers, which would have been very mortifying to the ingenious performer. It is now time to fry fomething of the other nations in the lift; but the account I have to give mult be very concife, as we are almoft unacquainted with their cuStoms constitutions', &c. Our knowledge of the Nehethawas, as I hinted before, being the moft perfect, the preceding account is more particularly ( '95 ) particularly applied to that nation. The whole of the information 1 have been able to obtain in regard to the reft, is too fuper-ficial to induce me to attempt a minute defcription of them. ASSINNEE PoETUC. This nation is thus named by the preceding one, which fignifies in their language, the Stone Indians. In the maps of North America, where the refidence of thefe incognita is faid to be, a nation of Indians is marked down, called the Aflinncboils; and this is the name by which the Canadian French, ftHl continue to call them. But it is a certain fact, that when the French porTeffed Canada, they never named any nation of Indians with propriety. The laft defcribed people they termed Crees 5 but their reafon for doing fo is only known to them-felves, unlefs it was from the Ochipewas calling them Criftineaux which may probably be the cafe. The nation under defcription is a detached tribe from the Naudawilfees on the river Mitfiffippi, mentioned in Carver's Travels, who anciently feparated from the general flock, on account of fome intelf ine commotion. At prefent thefe tribes are declared enemies to each other; yet their language, from the be(f information, has undergone no material alteration. The Aflinee Poetuc are pretty numerous, and are fcattered over a great extent of country. They bring many peltries to the traders, and are a principal fupport to the commerce. A large party of thefe Indians ufed to go down annually to York Fort on the coaft of Hudfon's Bay; but fince the Hudfon's Bay and Canada traders have penetrated fo far inland, they are too Well fupplied with the things they want, oft the fpot, to perform a Voyage fo long, anc/attended with fo many ihconveni-encies. In thofe days, however, they were much better off than they are at prefent; as they, like too many other tribes, are degenerating daily, through the frequent ufe of fpirituous liquors, and other debaucheries. Thefe ( *"97 ) Thefe Indians have always been in ftrict alliance with the Nehethawas. Fall Indians. This nation is thiis named by us, and by the Nehethawa Indians, from their inhabiting a country on the Southern branch of the river, where the rapids are frequent. As they are not very numerous, and have a harili, gutteral language peculiar to them-felves, I am induced to think they are a tribe that has detached itfelf from fome diftant nation, with which we are not as yet acquainted. In this people another in(iance occurs of the impropriety with which the Canadian-French name the Indians. They call them gros ventres, or big-bellies; and that without any reafon, as they are as comely and as well made as any tribe whatever; and are very far from being remarkable for their corpulency. N They They feem not yet to be initiated into the manner of hunting beavers, dreffing the fkins, and killing the fmall peltries, for they bring nothing to us but wolves, which they take by a variety of contrivances. Though we have interpreters for all the other Indian languages, none as yet have been able to attain a competency of this to make themfelves understood -y and the general method of converting, is by fpeaking the Black-foot tongue, which is agreeable, and foon acquired. The Susee Indians. Though this nation have a language in-tirely to themfelves, and which no others can learn, they are very few in number, being no more than a fmall tribe which has feparated from the main body, and now harbour in fome country about the Stony Mountain, where they keep to themfelves, for not many have as yet appeared at any of the trading-houfes. Thofe who occafionally vifit us are a crafty crafty deceiving fet, much given to theft and intoxication. Though their tribe is fmall; they cannot live in amity with their neighbours ; for the laft fummer, a number of* them fell upon an encampment of Blood Indians, whom they were at peace with, and moft of the men being abfent, they inhumanly butchered feveral women and children, which it was expected would be fcverely revenged the firft opportunity. Thefe Indians are lazy and improvident; they bring us very few peltries, and thofe ill dreft; Wolves fkins are their chief com-modity. Their women are the moft ordinary of any I have feen, but they are all liberal of their favours, when a perfon has wherewithal to pay for them. They retain a clofe alliance with the Nehethawas, rather to profit by their protection; than for any mutual efteem, fubfifting between them. Their language is equally difagreeable and difficult to learn; it rather refembles the confufed cackling of hens, than the ex-pretfion of human ideas; yet one of our interpreters has attained a fufficiency of it N 2 ttf to anfwer the purpofe of trading with them. The Black-foot, Paegan, and Blood Indians. Thefe Indians, though divided into the above three tribes, are all one nation, fpeak the fame language, and abide by the fame laws and cuftoms. For what reafon they are thus denominated, I have not been able to difcover, but they go by no other name among the Nehethawas. They are the moft numerous and powerful nation we are acquainted with; and by living on the borders of the enemies country, are the principal barrier to prevent their incurfions. War is more familiar to them than the other nations, and they are by far the moft formidable to the common enemy of the whole. In their inroads into the enemies country, they frequently bring off a number of horfes, which is their principal inducement in going to war. Thefe people are not fo far enervated by the ufe of fpirituous liquors, as to be flaves to it; when they come to trade they drink moderately, and buy themfelves necefTaries for war, and domeftic conveniences. They annually bring a good quantity of fkins to the traders, but a greater number by far of wolves. All thefe tribes have a cuftom peculiar to themfelves, which is the cutting off the joints of their ringers, beginning with the little finger, and taking off a joint as often as fuperftition prompts them. I have not been able to learn for certain the caufe" of this fingular cuftom, nor did I ever obferve any but the old men, that had their fingers thus mutilated. They behave very friendly to thofe of our people who pafs the winter with them, and none of them have as yet received any injury under their protection either in their perfons or effects. The people of this nation will eat no kind of water-fowl, amphibious animal, or fifh. Their chief fub-fiftance is the flefh of buffaloes, the deer fpecies, and likewife vegetables. Their lan-N 3 guage guage is not very grateful to the ear ot a granger, but when learnt, is both agreeable and exprefiive. I have been at fome pains to procure a Specimen of the languages of the aforementioned nations, and have fucceeded in all, except that of the Snake-Indians. The annexed table may perhaps be acceptable to thofe who are curious in that line. The exact orthography of the words, according to an Englishman's pronunciation, may be depended on, having received them with great care, from the mouths of the natives themfelves. It Strikes me as a matter of no fmall cu-riofity to obferve the multiplicity of genuine Indian languages to be met with in this western hemifphere; perhaps not half of them are mentioned in the given fpecimen. I know of other tribes to the fouth-eartward and northward of us, who fpeak other languages, but have not been able to obtain certain intelligence of them. Before To face Page 202. A SPECIMEN of fundry Indian Languages fpoken in the Inland Parts of HUDSON's BAY, between that Coaft and the Coaft of CALIFORNIA. Lnglifli Names. An Eye A Pair of Stockings A Shirt A Knife A Tobacco-pipe A Hat A Pair of Shoes Tobacco A Rabbit A Gun Brandy or Rum Gunpowder Ball A Hatchet A File A Dog Fire An arrow A Bow A Pot Beads Cloth A Horfe A Kettle Shot An Ice Chizzel A Handkerchief A Scraper A Comb A Pair of Mittins Paint, i.e. Vermillion An Awl Rings A Powder Horn One Two Three four five Six Seven Nine Ten Ne-heth-a-wa, or Ka-lif-te-no. Ske-fliic Yle-tas ?au-pau-ke-wi-an-a-fau-gi Mo-co-man Wuf-pwog-an ra-tuf-tin Mef-ke-fin-er Sheef-tem-mou Wau-pus Paf-ke-fa-gan Sku-ta-wap-pue Kaf-ka-tew Aflo-fwor-finnee Chic-a-ka-gan Kii-kim-man At-tim Scu-ta At-tuce-er Au-chap-pey Min-ne-quog-an Me-ke-fuc Man-ne-to-a-gan Mif-tut-tim Uf-keek Af-fm-nce Af-fif-wy Tap-pif-cog-gan Man-ne-twc-as Sic-co-hoan Ef-tif-uc O-thum-min Uce-katch-ic At-chan-is-uc Pe-che-pe-quon Pi-ac Ne-fhu Nif-to Na-ou Ne-an-an Un-coot-a-wafh-ic Ta-pu-co J-ay-nan-na-ou Ke-cat-me-tar-tuc Metartut Af-iin-e-po-e-tuc, or Stone Indians. Ifter Uce-ker TJ-ke-no-f:s-o-bun Meen Chan-nobe Wap-pau Hump Chan-dee VI uf-tinge Chu-tung Min-ne-wong Chock-ney Jan-jude Oce-o-pa Yume Shong Pate Wau-hin-dip In-tar-feep Emin-e-ar-ta-ki O-ay Shin-nunte Shu-gar-tung Cha-ger Mug-ga-chude Pit-ta-hay Nump-imb Wau-hin-dig Im-bar-gidge Nvm-pin-dib Wau-fhus Tar-hifp Num-fo-kin-dar Tau-hay O-jin Nomb Yar-min Tope Starpt Sharp Shar-co Shark-noh Nam-pe-chonk Wee-kee-chem Fall Indian?, Nun-nec-fo-on Nun-nor-tor Ne-weed-thu-it Warth Pe-chou-on I'i-u-it-te-ter Nub-o-on-er Cheef-ou-on Cutf-i-er Nuts Hidth-er Cutf-i-er-notce Oh-cn-orce Oh-er-er Hudth-er U-fit-ter Utce-ee Bart In-au-im Can-ar-ti-u Nau-odth-i-u Wau-ce-hoth Ma-ja-a-tian-au Cha-chu-chi-o-noche Thou-wau Same as fhirt Won-ut Char-i-uh-ay Node-thoth Na-olth-i-er-in-o Bay Tha-ith-e-te-an Ne-nis Kar-ci Neecc Narce Ne-an Yau-tune Ne-te-ar-tuce Ne-far-tuce Nar-fwar-tuce An-har-be-twar-tuce Met-tar-tuce Elack Foot Indians. Snake Indians. Wap-pif-pey At-chis E-ftoke-fo-char-fira Ef-to-un Ar-qui-in-e-man Af-clie-mo-gan Atch-ee-kin Pif-tar can Au-chif-tau Nar-mi O-key Chatch-o-patch Au-wauk-fo-bun Kuk-far-keen She-fhar-ne-ter Ame-tou If-chey Ap-pif-fey Kitf-nar-mi Meek-fhim-no-coce Com-on-e-crif-to-man Shic-a-pif-chey Pin-ne-cho-me-tar If-key Ar-fope-fey Sum-mo-to-ke-mar-chis No-kin Match-ee-cun Mar-ke-kin-arch No-chich-ey Au-fun Mo-kis Sap-pe-kin-if-cho-fm Utf-kin-ner Tokef-cum Nar-tokef-cum No-hokes-cum Ne-fwe-um Ne-fit-twi Nay Kitf-ic Nar-ne-fwe-um Pick-fee Kee-pey Suffee Indians. Se-nou-woh Sift-ler Si-cho-we-cher Warm Mif-tu-tey Sif-cau Me-cut-chin-er Til-te-tha To Til-te-the-tuf-er Til-the-the-tan-ny Chilthe Til-te-the-te-co-fey T/ey Coo Hil-tun-ney Tar-ney • Qce-chit-ler Che-we-fey Che che-nun-to-er Uf-faw Seef-ul-er U-wil-twey Char-uc-ee-chey Se-ut-ee-fer U-ti-el-ee-cher Chalthe See-lar-o-tar-ny * • 1 Ut-te-gar Uk-kc-er Tau-key Ta-chey Cu-cel-ter Uce-tim-nee Che-che-ta Tar-titch-ey Ke-cutch-ee-gar Cu-necfc-nun-nee Before the fatal attack of the fmall pox, which broke out in trie year 1781, all thefe nations of Indians were much more numerous than they are at prefent. By this dreadful vintation, which, as before obferved, was general throughout the Indian country, it is computed that at lealf one half of the inhabitants were fwept off by it. A brief Account of the prefent State of the Tr ade, carried on among the afore-Jaid Indians, Trade with the beforementioned Indians, is carried on by the fervants of the Hudfon's Bay Company, and alfo by feveral merchants from Canada. The extraordinary perfeverance of the latter, through numberlefs difficulties, augmented by continual carrying-places, ex-tenfive lakes, and rapid rivers, have penetrated into this diflant country in order to fupplant the Hudfon's Bay Company, who formerly divided very confiderable profits from the N 4 cxclufiye exclufive monopoly of this lucrative branch of trade. At prefent thefe profits are considerably diminished j for while their expences are augmented in a ten-fold proportion, upon an average of former years, their imports of furs are considerably lelfened, and their exports of fundry articles of merchandize are increafed, they being obliged to trade upon a higher Standard than heretofore, to keep pace with their opponents, who would otherwife outfell them. In entering on this account it will be needful to repeat many circumstances that have already been noticed. But as the further elucidation of the fubject requires it, I hope the apparent tautology will be excufed. Twenty years ago the Governor of York-Fort,which was the Company's principal establishment in the Bay, annually fent home at leaft thirty thoufand Skins, and maintained no more than twenty-five men, at very low wages; at prefent that place has upwards of one hundred men at it, who have increafed falaries, and it fends home no more than twenty twenty thoufand fkins, upon an average, from itfelf and four fubordinate fettlements ; and thefe are procured at an expence, which a few years back would have been looked upon as next to an annihilation of their commercial existence. It is an uncontrovertable fact, that fince the French have evacuated Canada, the fur trade from the inland parts of Hudfon's Bay, has been carried on to a greater extent than ever it was before; for the Company, who till then confined themfelves to the fea-fhore, knew nothing of the numerous nations inland ; and thefe again knew as little of them: that the Company, notwithstanding they had obliged themfelves by their charter to explore the whole of their territories, confined themfelves within a fmall circle. They confequently did not exert their influence to procure peltries, or to augment the consumption of BritiSh manufactures, by any other methods than through the channel of a very few Indians, comparatively fpeaking. Thefe Indians however, brought down enough tp enrich a few individuals, whofe intereft intereir. it was to prevent too great an influx of furs, which would not only lower the price at market, but probably open the eyes of an injured commercial people. In the days I am alluding to, the port of York Fort was furrounded with nations of Indians entirely unknown to the traders of the Company; and they would have remained in the fame ftate of ignorance to this day, had they not been awakened from their reveries by the unfurmountable perfeverance of a few Canadian merchants, who found them out, through obftacles and impediments attended with more danger and per-fonal hazard than a voyage to Japan. Since that time their affairs have undergone a material change in thefe parts.- The Canada merchants annually fend into the interior country, for the Indian trade, about forty large canoes of about four tons burthen each, a confiderable part of which goods are conveyed to thofe Indians who ufed to fend their furs down to Hudfon's Bay, by the Indian carriers, which did not amount to half the quantity at prefent procured. So that by this inteferenceof the Canada traders, it it is evident, that many more peltries are procured and imported into England, and a greater quantity of its manufactures con-fumed than heretofore ; and when it is further confidered, that thefe goods are of a very inferior quality, which perhaps would hardly find a fale elfewhere, this extenfion of the trade will appear an object not very inconfiderable. By the profecution of this commerce from Canada, the Hudfon's Bay Company found themfelves effectually fupplanted on the fea-more, the natives being fupplied inland with every conveniency for war and domeftic ufes. This induced the Company, in the year 1773, to begin their inland voyages, fo that the Canadians from Canada and the Europeans from Hudfon's Bay met together, not at all to the ulterior advantage of the natives, who by this means became degenerated and debauched, through the excefiive ufe of fpirituous liquors imported by thefe rivals in commerce. it It however muff be owned, that the Hudfon's Bay traders have ingratiated themfelves more into the efteem and confidence of the natives than the Canadians. The advantage of trade is evidently on their fide; their men, whofe honefty is incorruptible, being more to be depended upon. In proportion to the goods imported, the Company export a greater quantity of furs, and thefe In. better prefervation, and confequently more valuable. Their unfeafonable parfi-mony has hitherto been proved very favourable to their Canadian Opponents j as the accumulated expences attending fo dif-tant an undertaking would overbalance the profits of the latter, if the exertions of the Company were adequate to the value of the prize contended for. The Hudfon's Bay fervants being thus more in poffefiion of the efteem of the natives, they will always have the preference of trade as long as this conduct continues. Another great advantage in their favour is, that the principal articles of their trading goods are-of a fuperior quality to thofe imported ported from Canada. I would not by this insinuation infer,that the goods fent inland from Canada are not good enough for the Indian trade; no, I well know that the worft article imported is good enough ; but while they have to contend with people who fend goods of a fuperior kind, they evidently lie under a difadvantage, and it is my opinion, that it would be for the mtereft of the Canada merchants to fupply goods of an equal if not fuperior quality to their adverfaries, at every poif where they have thefe formidable rivals to oppofe them. The great imprudence, and bad way of living of the Canadian traders have been an invincible bar to the emolument of their employers. Many of thefe people, who have been the greateif part of their lives on this inland fervice among favages, being devoid of every focial and benevolent tie, are become flaves to every vice which can corrupt and debafe the human mind; fuch as quarrelling, drunkennefs, deception, &c. From a confirmed habit in bad courfes of this nature, they are held in abhorrence and and difguft, even by the Indians, who finding themfelves frequently deceived by fpecious promifes, never intended to be performed, imagine the whole fraternity to be impregnated with the fame failing, and accordingly hold the generality of the Canadian traders in deteftation and contempt. On the contrary, the fervants of the Hudfon's Bay Company, imported principally from the Orkney Ifles, are a clofe, prudent, quiet people, ffridfly faithful to their employers, and fordidly avaricious. When thefe people are fcatterred about the country in fmall parties among the Indians, the general tenor of their behaviour is conducted with fo much propriety, as not only to make themfelves efteemed by the natives, and to procure their protection, but they alfo employ their time in endeavouring to enrich themfelves, and their principals, by their diligence and unwearied afliduity. By this prudent demeanor among the Indians, notwithstanding they have annually expofed themfelves to all the dangers incident to the trade, for fifteen years paft, they have not not fuffained the lofs of a man; and the principal advantage of the Company over the Canadian traders, is more to be attributed to the laudable efforts of their fervants, than even to the fuperior quality of their goods. While the Canadian fervants are fo far from being actuated by the' fame principles, that very few of them can be truffed with a fmall affortment of goods, to be laid out for their matters profit, but it is ten to one that he is defrauded of the whole by commerce with Indian women, or fome other fpecies of peculation. By this and various other means which lower them in the eyes of the natives, as before obferved, they are become obnoxious to the Indians, their faith is not to be relied on, nor their ho-nefty confided in; fo that fcarce a year elapfes, without one or more of them falling- victims to their own imprudence, at a time when fatal experience fhould teach them, that a conduct guided by caution and difcretion ought to be the invariable and uniform rule of their behaviour. - It It mull be owned, that many of thefe people are pofiefied of abilities capable of aggrandizing their matters, and promoting their own welfare. They are very apt at learning the Indian languages, and acquiring a knowledge of the necefTary Indian ceremonies, as well as cuftoms to be obferved in profecuting the trade ; but in the whole courfe of my obfervation, I have fcarcely found one of them, who, for his abilities, honelfy, integrity, and other necefTary qualifications, could be intitled to the denomination of a good and faithful fervant. It cannot, however, be denied, but that they are excellent canoemen, and labour with furprizing dexterity, and inimitable patience, in their long inland voyages; and even when their provisions fail them, they bear their misfortunes with fortitude. But at the fame time it muff not be admitted that they are the only people on the face of the earth, who are capable of performing thefe voyages and undergoing the fatigues of them. Though fuch may be the fentiments of their employers, let thefe gentlemen for a while look look round them, and furvey without prejudice the inhabitants of our own hemisphere, and they will find people who are brought up from their infancy to hardships, and inured to the inclemency of the weather from their earlieff days; they will alfo find people, who might be trufted with thoufands, and who are too much familiarized to labour and fatigue to repine under the preffure of calamity as long as their own and their matters benefit is in view. I will further be bold to fay, that the prefent fervants of the Hudfon's Bay Company may be led as far inland as navigation is practicable, with more eafe and fatisfaction to the owners than the fame number of Canadians. The former would be always honefr, tractable, and obedient, as well from inclination, as from fear of lofing their pecuniary expectations ; whereas the latter being generally in debt, and having neither good name, integrity, nor property to lofe, arc always neglectful of the property committed to their charge, and whenever difficulties arifc there is never wanting fome among them to impede the undertaking. Q I have I have been led into the foregoing digref-fion, from the frequent encomiums I have heard paffed on the Canadians, as the only people for this bufinefs but having had four years experience of the general tenor of their conduct, I thought myfelf entitled to give my fentiments on the fubject, and to lay fomething in regard to thefe MeJJieurs Voyagews. The Canadian merchants have formed themfelves into a United Company, and carry on a very extenfive bufinefs over an unlimited extent of country, among Indians, who are hoftile and declared enemies to each other; and this branch of the Canada trade is by no means the leaft valuable appendage to that province. This Company alone, without counting thofe adventurers who trade in the parts which be adjacent to tbe MiffifTipi, &c. annually procure above one thoufand packs of fine peltry, each weighing ninety pounds. They find employment^JP for a great number of men under the denomination of guides, voyagers, clerks, interpreters, &c.; befides which, they give bread ( 215 ) bread to a number of neceffitous artifts and labouring people about Montreal, who fubfift principally by the continuation of this commerce. In the year 1787 they obtained out of this river three hundred and three packs. During the fame year the Hudfon's Bay traders had twenty canoes of twelve packs each - 240 And twenty Indian canoes carrying four packs each, at feventy pounds 80 Which were equal to two hundred and forty-nine French. So that if the Canada traders had the Commerce of this river entirely to themfelves, they would draw as much from it, as would be equal to one half of their prefent returns. The fame year the Canada merchants tranf-ported into the fame river fix hundred pieces of goods about ninety pounds each ; whereas the Hudfon's Bay people fent no more than two hundred and forty pieces of about feventy pounds each; which plainly points out to us O z the the great ceconomy which is ufed on one fide, and the enormous expenditure on the other. It may be urged that the plan purfued by the Canada merchants, requires a great part of their goods for the ufe of the men. This appears an argument of confequence; yet to obviate it, we muft confider, that the difference in the force of Englifh brandy, and what is called high wines, will more than overbalance the reduction advanced to the men ; for a keg of Britifh fpirits, when adulterated for fervice, will only make three kegs, whereas a keg of high wines when mixed for the Indian trade, will make five kegs; fo that what it requires to mix thirty kegs' for them, we with ours can have fifty kegs. Since I have embarked in the Canadian employ I have frequently obferved a profufe expenditure of goods made to Indians, for very frivolous ends, or more properly for no end at all; which to my certain knowledge is not practifed in the other fervice. This practice is productive of nothing, but the corruption of the Indians, and the tempo- porary porary flattering promifes of thofe who receive them; for, as I have already obferved, the advantages of trade annually preponderates on the fide of the Hudfon's Bay Company. Thofe who feel the weight of this expensive undertaking, muff certainly join with me in acknowledging, that a frugal ceconomy is not only commendable," but neceffary, in the expenditure of their property; perhaps had this plan been purfued, fome of thofe gen^-.tlemen who ftill continue the bufinefs, might at this day have enjoyed their eafe and independence, by the fruits of a commerce, which has obtained for the Hudfon's Bay Company the reputation of being one of the richeft incorporated bodies in England, The maxim of fuffering the Canadian traders to run fo deeply in debt, appears to be founded in error, and prejudicial to the affairs of their employers. Thefe fellows, who are loft to every principle of moral rectitude, become loofened from all attachment to the fervice $ they are intent on nothing but their own peculiar eafe and convenience; O 3 they they are earelefs of the property entrufted to them, unambitious in the performance of their duties, impatient of all order and decorum, difobedient to the instructions, and infulting to the perfons, of thofe who employ them. They cannot be trufted in any trading party, for they will expend the goods they have with them on women and trifles, imagining themfelves out of the reach of all law ; and there feems to be very few worthy of truft among them, but fuch as have wages in their employers hands. My good wifhes for the profperity of the Canadian fervice is fuch, that I cannot help fubmitting with all due »deference to fuperior abilities, the following expedients which occur to me, but which, moft probably may never be put in execution. To make the Company truly refpectable, and at the fame time to put in it their power to render the province of Canada of greater confideration to the mother country than if is, they mould be legally admitted to the rights, immunities, and privileges of a chartered tered Company ; and if it were practicable, they mould be united with the prefent Hudfon's Bay Company, as we have feen an old and new Eaif India Company united and incorporated in one joint body of merchants. And perhaps fuch a junction might not be unacceptable to the Hudfon's Bay Company, who, for fo many years, have tailed the fweets of monopoly. I am fully perfuaded that nothing is required but interefl and proper application to bring about fome plan of this nature. The magnitude of the object would juftify the experiment ; and I have no doubt but that many xeipectable perfons would be found to patronize an adventure, which would put the proprietors in pofTeilion of a greater extent of territory than what is inhabited by all the Christian States in Europe. I again repeat, that great improvements are to be made, and much wealth acquired from the feas about Hudfon's Bay; and likewife that full as much remains to he done inland; but while affairs are carried on in thofe parts of the globe, upon the fame footing they O 4 are are at prefent, there is a probability that all thefe countries will remain as utterly unknown to the world, for ages to come, as the regions within the Polar Zones. I am Sufficiently aware of the interest, application, time, perfeverance, and expence necefTary to bring about a matter fo difficult and complicated in all its parts, as the important matter above hinted at; but a thing once begun is more than half compleated; and it behoves thofe who are peculiarly concerned therein, and know the utility of the object, to make that beginning. No period, in my opinion, can be more favourable than the prefent. When fo many fair provinces have been wrefted from the mother country, ©n the fame continent, it is our duty to point out every feafible method by which the parent State may cherifh and bring to perfection the remainder. Journal Journal of a Journey from Montreal to New York, in the year 1788. On the 14th of May, 1788, I left my wintering ground, where I had been about four years; on the 8 th of July arrived at the Great Carrying-place on Lake Superior; on the 15th of September reached Montreal j and on the 25th of the fame month I took my departure from that city to travel to New York. September 25, 1788, I left Montreal, in company with a gentleman defirous of pur-fuing the fame rout. About four in the afternoon we traverfed over to La Prairie, a fmall village about two miles above Montreal. 26th, Hired a cart and two faddle horfes, to proceed with our baggage towards St. John's, through a wretched country, the roads being very bad, and the land very un-promifing. The town of St. John's, which is is eighteen miles diflant from La Prainc, makes a very formidable appearance. Here were to be feen a ihip of eighteen guns, and another of twenty-two, with feveral other fmall craft, which were employed in Lake Champiain during the late war. A Ship called the Washington, of 16 guns, alfo lies here, and which was taken from a part of the American army under" the command of General Arnold. The fame day we took boat, and proceeded about five miles on the lake* 27th. The wind being unfavourable, we went but fifteen miles, and then made for the more, and put up at the houfe of a Mr. Barran, a ferjeant in the 44th regiment. His houfe was very prettily fitted up in the Englifh ftile, and is by much the neateft I have feen among the country fettlers, 2 8 th. Left the houfe of our very hofpitable landlord, but the wind being Still contrary, we did not proceed above Six miles, 29th, 29th. The wind becoming favourable, we made a good If retch ' in the Lake untill twelve at night, which brought us to Ti--ponderoga. We had palled by Crown Point in the night. 30th. From Ticonderago we proceeded about thirty miles farther to Skeeniborough, the eitate of General Skeene, which he was obliged to abandon on account of his adherence to the royal caufe. Here a faw-mill and four houies are erected. Lake Champlain is about one hundred and fifty miles in length from St. John's to Skeenf-borough. Its direction isaboutN.W.andS.E. and it is feldom above two miles wide, except at the widen: part, the middle of it, which is computed to be twenty miles over. About twenty-eight miles from St. John's is the extent of the Britim territories in this quarter; all the remainder of the lake belongs to the United States.* At fourteen miles from St. John's is Ifle au Noix, a fmall illand, very well adapted to command the channel of the lake, but it is at prefent in a ruinous ft ate. It ff ill however retains retains a fmall garrifon, part of the 6oth regiment, for the fake of regulating the trade between Canada and the United States. Exclusive of this garrifon, there is a brig, mounting eight carriage guns. Stationed within the American lines for the fame purpofe. As we -parfed Crown Point in the night I can fay nothing of that ancient French fortrefs. Ticonderoga is a rocky point, and by its Situation effectually commands the pafTage of the lake. It appears to have once been a place of confiderable Strength, but it is at this time much neglected. Immediately oppofite is Mount Independence ; a lofty point, where fome fortifications have formerly been erected. Between thefe two forts the Americans built a temporary bridge to impede the pahage of the King's troops from Canada; but the forts being evacuated on the approach of the troops, the bridge was fawn very leifurely in pieces. A traveller in palling thro' lake Champlain, is rather diftreffed, when he lands, with the variety ( 225 ) variety of currency in the country ; for on the Canada end of the lake the dollar is valued at five (hillings; on the North fide, which is in the if ate of New York, it is reckoned at eight millings ; and on the South fide, which is in the ffate of Vermont, at fix millings. October i. Agreed with a Mr. M'Kinly, for the ufe of his waggon from hence to Albany, being feventy four miles, for eight dollars. We went from Skeeniborough to Fort Ann, through the woods, on horfe-back, a tract: of twelve miles, where we found our waggon ; and proceeded the fame day to Fort Edward, twelve miles farther, through a very good road. 2d. Continued our route, and put up at Still Water. Had there good accommodations, and a civil, agreeable landlady. , 3d. About nine in the morning we arrived at Albany, through a molt agreeable country. From Skeenfborough to Fort Ann, the road is exceeding bad, and leads through a tract very little cultivated. The peafants are are very intelligent and improve their farms with apparent induftry. The land produces in great abundance Indian corn, potatoes, water melons, pumkins, 6cc. and the fineft timber I ever beheld. As we advanced towards Albany the roads became better, the ground more cultivated, and the buildings made a more refpeclable appearance. From Fort Edward towards Still Water the appearance of every thing ftrikes the eye of a ftranger with pleafure, as he beholds a beautiful country under the hand of improvement; a Briton, however, in palling, cannot but fympathize with the unfortunate General Burgoyne, and his. brave followers, who unhappily became captives at Saratoga. At Still Water we faw a regiment of Ame--rican militia manoeuvring, to the apparent fatisfaction of their officers, but in our opinion they cut a forry appearance indeed ! Their guns were old and * nifty, and the cloathing of this motly troop, confifted of every fhape and colour, that wras ever known or invented. Some wore cocked hats, fome flapped flapped hats,and fome no hats at all. The major part of them,being juft taken from the plough, Stooped down as though they were admiring their fhoe-Strings. Some were clad in waift-coats without ileeves; but by much the greater part of them had their carcafes inclofed in horfeman's coats, limilar to thofe worn by Hackney-coachmen. We paifed the houfe and mills of General Scuyler. They have been lately rebuilt, having formerly been destroyed by General Bur-goyne's army. The water of Hudfon's river was very low, and we croffed it four times in our waggon, between Albany and the New City. Albany is computed to contain five hundred houfes, moftly of brick, fome of which are tolerably well built. The greater part of the inhabitants are low Dutch. It has an Englim church, a prefbyterian meeting houfe, and another for the Dutch. It is but a folitary place, and the people do not feem to be very fociable. At the time I was there, no hard money was to be got; and paper money fuffers a difcount of eight per cent, all over the province. Odober October 4. Wc left Albany and embarked on board a floop configned to New York, but had not continued the voyage above three miles, before the veflel got aground on the ifioals, where we remained four days in much diitrefs, Striving every tide to difengage our-felves without effect. 7th. We left the veffel, and embarked on board another, called the Arabia, - Wyncoop, mafler. 8th. We this day paffed the new Town of Hudfon, about thirty miles below Albany. This town is a Handing monument of human induflry, being entirely built fince the conclusion of the war. It is beautifully Situated on an elevated Situation, has many excellent buildings, and bids fair to rival Albany for trade, in a few years , particularly on account of its being fituated below the Shoals. It cannot contain lefs than two hundred houfes, the firft Stone of which was laid in 1784. A very excellent floating machine is erected for the purpofe of drawing up the fand from the the bed of the river, but the contractor for the job has made very little progrefs, notwithstanding it is two years Since the commencement of the undertaking. The famous Hudfon's river, which we find fo much extolled in defcriptions of this country, appears to me not to merit the praife given of it. The distance from New York to Albany is one hundred and Sixty miles, and no farther is this river navigable for velfels of any burthen : and even in this diitance, veffels drawing eight foot water meet with much difficulty in certain places. 8th. and 9th. We had light airs, which prevented us from making much way. The country is all along beautifully fettled, and make's a pretty appearance from the water. Chefnuts, walnuts, and apples, are fo plenty, that travellers help themfelves enpqffantwith-out ceremony. Cyder is the ufual drink among the country people, but I cannot fay much in its commendation. The peafantry,. as I remarked before, are hofpitable, intelligent, and inquiiitive, but are rather grip- ( 23° ) ing on travellers, particularly the Low Dutch. ioth. This day we had a fine breeze of wind which foon conveyed us to the city of New York; a place too well known to require any defcription here. FINIS. BOOKS printed for C. Stalker. Ii A INS WORTH's Latin and En-lilh Dictionary, 4m. Jl\^ A new edition, with great addiiions and amend-rnents, il. 7s. 2. Ainfworth's ditto, 8vo. 9s. bound. 3. johnfon's Britilh Foets, 68 vols, with copper plate?, with preface?, iol. 4s. 4. Johnfon's Dictionary, in 1 vol. 8vo. 8s. bound. 5. 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