k ft. A V O Y A G TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. UNDERTAKEN, BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FOR MAKING Difcoveries in the Northern Hemifphere. Vo DETERMINE The Position and Extent of the West Side of North America i jjrfbfr^VJta Distance from Asia ■„ and the Practicability of a I J£^fij5 K \ Northern Passage to F^uropb. ft ,TXl^ UlUUiv^ . c .ns COOK) CLER K E, and GORE, SJ2S3p!frWf Majesty's Ships th« RESOLUTION and DISCOVER Y. In the Years .1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780. T N THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F. R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL. D. and F. R. S. tlluftrated with Maps and Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the Direction of Captain Cook ; and with a great Variety id Portraits of Pcribns, Views of Plates, ;md Hiltorical Representations of Remarkable Incidents, drawn by Mr, Webber dining the Voyage, and engraved by the nioft eminent AiLilts. Publifhed by Order of the Lords Commiflioners of the Admiralty. VOL. III. LONDON: PRINTED BY VV. AND A. STRAIIAN: FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, IN THE STRAND» AND T. C A DELL, IN THE STRAND. MDCL'I-XXXIV. CONTENTS OFT II E THIRD VOLUME, BOOK V. Captain King's Journal of the Tranfactions on returning to the Sandwich Iflands. CHAP. I. jpyEfiriphon of Karakakooa Bay.—Vafl Concourfs of the Natives.— Power of the Chiefs over the inferior People.—Vifit from Koah, a Priefi and Warrior.—The Moral at Kakooa defcribed.—Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook.—Obfervatories creeled.—Powerful Operation of the Taboo.—Method of falting Pork in tropical Climates. —Society ofPriefis difcovcred.—Their Hofpitality and Munificence. —Reception of Captain Cook.—Art'fee of Koah.—Arrival of'/er-reeoboo, King of the //land.—Singular Ceremony .—Vift from the King.—Returned by Captain Cook. ^aSe 1 A 2 CONTENTS. CHAP. II. Farther Account of TranfaBions ivith the Natives.—Their HoffAta-lity.—Propenflty to Theft.—Defcription of a Boxing Match.—Death of one of our Seamen.—Behaviour of the Briefs at his Funeral.— The Wood Work and Images on the Mcrai pur chafed.—The Natives inquifitive about our Departure.—Their Opinion about the Defgn of our Voyage.—Magnifcent Prefents of Terreeoboo to Captain Cook.—■ The Ships leave the {/land.—The Refolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return. 20 C II A P. III. Sufpicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return to IZarakakooa Bay. —Theft on board the Difcovery, and its Confequences.—The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to quit her.—Captain Cook's Obfervations on the Occafion.—Attempt at the Obfervatory.—The Cutter of the Difcovery fllolcn.—Mei/u*es taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery.— Goes on Shore, to invite the King on board.—The King being flopped by his Wife, ana the Chiefs, a Contcfl arifes.— News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People. —Ferment on this Occafion.—One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is pot by him.—General Attack by the Natives.—Death of Captain Cook.—Account of the Cafjtains Services^ and a fetch of his Characler. 35 CH A P. IV. TranfacTons at Owhyhee, fubfequent to the Death of Captain Cook.— Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.—Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Moral.-—Bravery of one of the Natives.— Confutation refpecling future Meafures.—Demand of the Body of Captain Cook—Evafve and infidious Conducl of Koah, and the Chiefs.—Infoleut Behaviour of the Natives.—Promotion of Officers. —Arrival of two Priefls with Part of the Body.—Extraordinary 2 Behaviour Behaviour of tvuo Boys.—Burning of the Village of Kakooa.<—Un-fortunate Dflruclion of the Dwellings of the Briefs.—Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure from Karakakooa Bay. 53 CHAP. V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of an Harbour on the South Eaft Side of Mowee.—Driven to Leeward by the Eafterly Winds and Current.—Bafs the Ifland of Tahoorowa.—Defcription of the South Weft fide of Moivee.—-Run along the Coafls of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.—Defcription of the North Eaft Coafl of WoahoQ—TJn-fuccefsful Attempt to water.—P affage to Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay.—Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.-—Civil Diffentions in the Iflands.—Vifit from the contending Chiefs.— Anchor off Oneeheow. — Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands. . 83 C II A P. VI. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands. Their Number, Namesy and Situation.—Owhyhee.-//j Extent, and Diviflon into Dif-tricTs.—Account of its Coafls, and the adjacent Country .—Volcanic Appearances.—Snowy Mountains.—Their Height determined.—Account of a Journey into the interior Parts of the Country.—Mowee. —Tahoorowa.—Morotoi.—Ranai— Woahoo.—Atooi.— oneeheow.~oreehoua.^tahoora.^C/iw^.~/FzW;.--- Currents.—Tides.—Animals and Vegetables—Aflronomical Obfervations. 100 CHAP. VII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued.—Of the Inhabitants.—Their Origin—Perfons—Pernicious Effetts of the Ava.— Numbers.—Difpofltion and Ma?mers.—Reafons for fuppofmg themnot Cannibals.—Drefs and Ornaments.—Villages and Houfes.—Food.— Occupations and Amufements.—Additted to Gaming.—Their extraordinary ordinary Dexterity in Swimming.—Arts and Manufactures,—Curious Specimens of their Sculpture.—Kipparee, or Method of painting Cloth.—Mats.—Fiflnng Hooks.—Cordage.—Salt Pans.—Warlike L'frumen ts. 124 G II A P. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued.— Government.— People divided into three Clajfes.—Power of Eree-taboo.—Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee.—Power of the Chiefs. — State of the inferior Oafs.—PunifJjment of Crimes.—Religion.— Society of Priejls.—The Or0110.—Their Idols.—Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.—Human Sacrifices.—Cuftom of knocking out the fore Teeth.—Notions with regard to a future State.— Marriages.—Remarkable Iflance of Jealonfy. •—Funeral Rites. BOOK VI. Tranfactions during the fecond Expedition to the North, by the Way of Kamtfchatka ; and on the Return Home, by the Way of Canton, nnd the Cape of Good Hope. C II A p. I. Departure from Oneeheow.—Fruitlefs Attempt to difcover Modoopa-pappa.—Ccurfe fleered for A-zvatfka Bay.—Occurrences during that Paffage.—Sudden Change from Heat to Cold.—Dif refts occaftoned by the leaking of the Refolution—View of the Coafl of Kamtfchatka, —Extreme Rigour of the Climate.—Lofe Sight of the Difcovery.— The Refolution enters the Bay of Awatfka.—Prof peel of the Town of St. Peter and St. Paul.—Party fent afloorc.—Their Reception by the Commanding Officer of the Port.—Mefftage difpatched to the Commander at Bolcheretfti.—Arrival of the Difcovery,—Return of 8 the the Meffengers, from the Commander.—Extraordinary Mode of travelling,—Ft/it from a Merchant, and a German Servant belonging to the Commander. iji CHAP. ir. Scarcity of Provifions and Stores at the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.—A Party fit out to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk» —Pafjage up the River Awatfka.—Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karat chin.—Description of a Kamtfchadale Drefs.f— Journey on Sledges.—Defcription of this Mode of Travelling.— Arrival at Natcheekin.—Account of hot Springs.—Embark on the Bolchoireka.—Reception at the Capital.—Generous and hofpitablc Qmduc~l of the Commander and the Garrifon. —Defcription of Bof-chcretf.—Prefents from the Commander.—Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing.—A feeing Departure from Bolcheretfi.—Return to St. Peter and St. Paul's, accompanied by Major Behw, who vifits the Sh'ips.—Gcnerojity of the Sailors.—Difpatches fent by Major Behm to.Peter/burg.—His Departure and Characlcr. iq6 c h a p. nr. Continuation of' Tran/dclious in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. —Abundance of FfJ?.—Death of a Seaman belonging to the Refolution—The Ruffian Hojpital put under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons.—Supply, of Flour and Cattle. — Celebration of the King's Birth-day.—Difficulties in falling out of the Bay.—FWuption of a. Volcano i—Steer to the. Northward.—Checpoonfhol Nojs.—Errors of tjbe Ruffian Charts.—Kamtfchatjkoi Nfts. - Oluhrfai Nofs.—Tfchu-htfl'.oi Nofs.— Ifland of St. Laurence.—View, from the fame Point, of the Coifs of /fa and America, and the IJlands of St. Dlomcdc.— Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents. —ObJhiU'ted by impenetrable. Ice--Sea-horfes and white Bears hill'd.—C apt au\. Clerk's Determination, and future Deftgns.. 22$ CHAP. IV. Fruittefs attempts to penetrate through the Ice to the North Weft*—• Dangerous Situation of the Difcovery.—Sea-horfcs killed.—Frefh Ob/lrudlions from the Ice.—Report of Damages received by the Difl covery.—Captain Clerke s Determination to proceed to the Southward.—Joy of the Ship's Crews on that Occafion.—Paft Serdze Kamen.—Return through Bee rings Straits.—Inquiry into the Extent of the North Eaft Coafl of Aft a.—Reafons for rej ceding Mutter's Map of the Promontory of the Tfchutfki.—Reafons for believing the Coaft does not reach a higher Latitude than yo° i North.—General Obfervations on the Impracticability of a North Eaft, or North Wefl Paffage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean.—Comparative View of the Progrefs made in the Tears iyyS and 1779.—Remarks on the Sea, and Sea-coafls, North of Beerings Straits— Iliftory of the Voyage refumed.—Pafs the Ifland of St. Laurence.— The Ifland of Mednoi.—Death of Captain Clerke.—Short Account of bis Services, 255 C II A P. V. Return to the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.—Promotion of Officers.—Funeral of Captain Clerke.—Damages of the Difcovery repaired—Various other Occupations of the Ships Crews.—Letters from the Commander.—Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot.—Account of an Exile.—Bear-hunting and FifJj-ing Parties.—Difgrace of the Serjeant.—Celebration of the King's Coronation Day, and Vifit from the Commander.—The Serjeant rein-fated.—A Ruffian Soldier promoted at our Reqiufl.—Remarks on the Dfcipline of the Ruffian Army.—Church at Paratounca.—Method of Bear-hunting.—Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfcha-dales.—Infcription to the Memory of Captain Clerke.—Supply of Cattle.—Entertainments on the Emprefs's Name Day. — Prefent from from the Commander\—Attempt of a Marine to defert.—Work cut of the Bay.—Nautical and Geographical Defcription of Awatfka Bay* ■—Aftronomieal tables, and Obfervations. 283 CHAP. VI. General Account of Kamtfchatka.—Geographical Defcription—Rivers. —Soil.—Climate.—Volcanos.—Hot Springs.—Produclions. —Vzge-ta bles. —Animals.—Birds. —Fifth. 325 CHAP. VII. General Account of Kamtfchatka continued.—Of the Inhabitants.—-Origin of the Kamtfchadale s,—Difovercd by the Ruffians.—Ab-ftracl of their Hi/lory.—Numbers.—Prefent State.—Of the Ruffian Commerce in Kamtfchatka —Of the Kamtfchadale Habitations and Drefs.—Of the Kurilc Iflands.—The Koreki.—The Tfchutfki. 359 CHAP. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings.—Courfe to the Southward, along the Coajl of Kamtfchatka.—Cape Lopatka.—Pafs the Iflands Shoomfka and Paramouftr.—Driven to the Eajlward of the Kurilcs.—Singular Situation with rcfprcl to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navigators.—Fruit lefs Attempts to reach the If ands North of J a-pan.—Geographical Concluftons.—View of the Coaft of Japan.—Run along the Eaft Side.—Pafs two Japanefe Veffels.—Driven off the Coaft by contrary Winds.—Extraordinary EffeB of Currents.—Steer for the Bafhees.—Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone.—Difco-ver Sulphur Ifland.—Pafs the Pratas.—Iftes of Lema, and Ladron I/land.—Chinefe Pilot taken on board the Refolution.—Journals of the Officers and Men fecured. 384. CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao.—A Chinefe Comprador.—Sent on Shore to v/ftt the Portuguefe Governor.—Effecls of the Intelligence we received Vol. III. a from from Europe.—Anchor in the Typct.—Pajfage up to Canton.—Bocca Tygris.—Wampu.—Defcription of a Sampane.— Reception at the Engiifj Factory.—Infance of the fufpicious Character of the Chinefe. —Of their Mode of trading.—Of the City of Canton.—Its Size__ Population.—Number of Sampanes.—Military Force.—Of the Streets and Houfes.—Vifit to a Chinefe.—Return to Macao.—Great Demand for the Sea-otter Skins. —Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Wefern Coafl of America, and profecuting further Difcove-ries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.—Departure from Macao,— Price of Provifions in China. 419 CHAP. X. Leave the Typa.—Orders of the Court of France refpecling Captain Cook.—Refolutions in confequence thereof—Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield Banks.—Pafs Pulo Sapata.—Steer for Pulo Condore. —Anchor at Pulo Condore.—Tranfaclions during our Stay.—Journey to the principal Tovun.—Receive a Vifit from a Mandarin.—■ Examine his Letters.—RefrefJjments to be procured.—Defcription, and prefent State of the Ifland.—Its Produce.—An Affertion of M, Sonnerat refuted.—Afronomical and Nautical Obfcrwt'wns* 447 CHAP. XL Departure from Pulo Condore.—Pafs the Straits of Banca.—View of the Ifland of Sumatra.—Straits of Sunda.—Occurrences there.—Defcription of the Ifland of Cracatoa.—Prince's Ifland—-Eff"eels of the Climate of Java.—Run to the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfaclions there.—Defcription of Falfe Bay.—Pajfage to the Orkneys.—General Reflections. 465 APPEN- APPENDIX. No. I. Tables of the Route of the Refolution and Difcovery, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. 403 II. A comparative Table of Numerals, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to prevail in all the I/lands of the Eaflern Sea, and derived from that fpoken onths Continent of Afia, in the Country qf the Malayes. fronting 53P III. Vocabulary of the Languages of the Friendly Iflands. 531 IV, Vocabulary of the Language of Nootka, or King George's Sound. 54* V. Vocabulary of the Language of Atooit one of the Sandwich Iflands. 549 VI. Table to Jhew the Affinity between the Languages fpoken at Oonalaflhka and Norton Sounds and thofe of the Green-landers and Efquimaux. 554 VII. Table of the Variations of the Compafs, obferved by Captain Cook during his paffage from England to the Cape qf Good Hope, See Vol. I. p. 49. 556 ERRATUM. P^e 13, for Plate No. LXI. rta4 No. LX. VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK V, Captain King's Journal of the Tranfa&ions on returning to the Sandwich Iflands. C H A P. I. Defcription of Karakakooa Bay.—Vajl Coneourfe of the Natives.—Power of the Chiefs over the iiiferior People.— Vifit from Koahy a Priejl and Warrior.—The Moral at Kakooa defcribed.—Ceremo?ties at the Landing of Captain Cook.—Obfervatories ereBed.—Powerful Operation of the Taboo.—Method of falting Pork in tropical Climates,—Society of Priejls difcovered.—Their Hofpi-tality and Munificence.—Reception of Captain Cook.— Artifice of Koah.—Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of the Ifland.—Singular Ceremony.—Vifit from the King.— Returned by Captain Cook, TTARAKAKOOA Bay is fituated on the Weft fide of the 1779. Jn^ ifland of Owhyhee, in a diftrict called Akona. It is J^^ffl about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low Snnday points of land, at the diftance of half a league, and bearing South South Eaft and North North Weft from each other. Vol. III. B On *779< On the North point, which is flat and barren, ftands the January, * v—' village of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more confiderable fize, called Kakooa: between them, runs a high rocky cliff, inacceflible from the fea more. On the South fide, the coafl:, for about a mile inland, has a rugged appearance; beyond which the country rifes with a gradual afcent, and is overfpread with cultivated inclofures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations of the natives are Scattered in great numbers. The fhore, all round the bay, is covered with a black coral rock, which makes the landing very dangerous in rough weather; except at the village of Kakooa, where there is a fine fandy beach, with a Morai, or burying-place, at one extremity, and a fmall well of frefh water, at the other. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the mips, and lay in an additional fupply of water and provifions, we moored on the North fide, about a quarter of a mile from the fhore, Kowrowa bearing North Weft. As foon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the fhore in aflo-nifhing numbers, and exprcflcd their joy by fingingand (homing, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant geftures. The fides, the decks, and rigging of both mips were foon completely covered with them; and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came fwim-ming round us in fhoals; many of whom, not finding room on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Refolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom we foon perceived to be aperfon of great authority. On prefenting himfelf to 2 Captain Captain Cook, he told him, that he was Jakanec * to the king *?79-of the ifland, who was at that time engaged on a military c an office, or fome degree of affinity, we could never learn with certainty, B 2 Kancena '779- Kaneena took him up in his arms, and threw him into the anuary. —-—* fea. Both thefe chiefs were men of ftrong and well-proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleating. Kancena efpecially, whole portrait Mr. Webber has drawn, was one of the fine'Il men I ever faw. He was about fix feet high, had regular and expreflive features, with lively, dark eyes ; his carriage was eafy, firm, and graceful. It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruize off this ifland, the inhabitants had always behaved with great fairnefs and honefty in their dealings, and had not fhewn the flightefl propenfity to theft; which appeared to us the more extraordinary, becaufc thofe with whom we had hitherto held any intercourfe, were of the loweft rank, either fervants or fifhermen. We now found the cafe exceedingly altered. The immenfe crowd of iflanders, which blocked up every part of the fhips, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering without rifk of difcovery, but our inferiority in number held forth a profpecl: of efcaping with impunity in cafe of detection. Another cir-cumflance, to which we attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the prefence and encouragement of their chiefs ; for generally tracing the booty into the poflTeflion of fome men of confequence, we had the flrongeft reafon to fufpecl: that thefe depredations were committed at their infligation. Soon after the Refolution had got into her flation, our two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a prieff, and had been, in his youth, a dift.inguifh.ed warrior, He was a little a little old man, of an emaciated figure; his eyes exceed- ja7u7a9ry. ingly fore and red, and his body covered with a white le- v—*— prous fcurf, the effects of an immoderate ufe of the ava. Being led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his fhoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him. Then ftepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a fmall pig, which he held in his hand, whilfl he pronounced a difcourfe that lafted for a confiderable time. This ceremony w'as frequently repeated during our flay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, from many circumftances, to be a fort of religious adoration. Their idols we found always arrayed with red cloth, in the fame manner as was done to Captain Cook; and a fmall pig was their ufual offering to the Eatooas. Their fpeeches, or prayers, were uttered too with a readincfs and volubility that indicated them to be according to fome formulary. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook, eating plentifully of what was let before him; but, like the reft of the inhabitants of the iflands in thefe Seas, could fcarccly be prevailed on to tafte a fecond time our wine or fpirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myfelf, accompanied him on fhore. We landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who carried wands tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, i Pr°nouncing with a loud voice a fhort fentence, in which we could only diflinguifh the word Qron**. The crowd, * Captain Cook generally went by this name amongft the natives of Owhyhee j but we could never learn its precife meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invisible be»ng, who, they faid, lived in the Vavcns. We alio found that it was a title belonging to a perfonage of great rank and power in the ifland, who refemblcs pretty much trie Delai Lama qf the taiiatt, and the ecclefiaftical emperor of Japan. which which had been collected on the fhore, retired at our approach ; and not a perfon was to be feen, except a few lying proflrate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining village. Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal ifland, it will be neceflary to de-fcribe the Moral, fituated, as I have already mentioned, at the South fide of the beach at Kakooa. It was a fquare folid pile of flones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paved, and fur-rounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the fculls of the captives, facrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area, flood a ruinous old building of wood, connected with the rail, on each fide, by aflone wall, which divided the whole fpace into two parts. On the fide next the country, were five poles, upward of twenty feet high, fupporting an irregular kind of fcaffold ; on the oppofite fide, toward the fea, flood two fmall houfes, with a covered communication. We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile by an eafy afcent, leading from the beach to the North Wefl corner of the area. At the entrance, we faw two large wooden images, with features violently diflorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, rifing from the top of their heads; the reft was without form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man with a long beard, who prefented Captain Cook to the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of the Moral, where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them them were twelve images ranged in a femicircular form, and before the middle figure, flood a high fland or table, exactly refembling the Whatta* of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces of fugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, breadfruit, plantains, and fweet potatoes. Koah having placed the Captain under this fland, took down the hog, and held it toward him ; and after having a fecond time addrefled him in a long fpcech, pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the fcafTolding, which they began to climb together, not without great rifk of falling. At this time we faw, coming in folemn procefTion, at the entrance of the top of the Moral, ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being advanced a few pace% they flopped, and proftratcd themfelves; and Kaireckeea, the young man above-mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the Captain, and afterward offered him the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeca with the fame ccremonv. Whilft Captain Cook was aloft, in this aukward fituation, fwathcd round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his hold amongft the pieces of rotten fcaffolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting fometimes in concert, and fometimes alternately. This lafted a conlidcrable time; at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain defcended together. He then led him to the images before Mentioned, and having faid fomething to each in a fneer-lng tone, mapping his fingers at them as he pafled, he DI>ought him to that in the center, which, from its being * See Captain Cook's former Voyage. covered covered with red cloth, appeared to be in greater eflimation than the reft. Before this figure he proftrated himfelf, and kifled it, defiring Captain Cook to do the fame; who fuffered himfelf to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the orher divifion of the Moral, where there was a fpace, ten or twelve feet fquarc, funk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we defcended, and Captain Cook was feated between two wooden idols, Koah fupporting one of his arms, whilft I was defired to fupport the other. At this time, arrived a fecond proceffion of natives, carrying a baked hog, and a pudding, fome bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put himfelf at their head, and prelenting the pig to Captain Cook in the ufual manner, began the fame kind of 'chant as be. fore, his companions making regular refponfes. We ob-ferved, that after every refponfe, their parts became gradually fhorter, till, toward the clofe, Kaireekeea's confifted of only two or three words, which the reft anfwered by the word Orono. When this offering was concluded, which laflcd a quarter of an hour, the natives fit down, fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts; whilft others employed themfelvcs in brewing the ava; which is done, by chewing it in the fame manner as at the Friendly Iflands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the Captain's face, head, hands, arms, and moulders. The ava was 7 then then handed round, and after we had tafted it, Koah and W( Pareea began to pull the flefh of the hog in pieces, and to i—„—i put it into our mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his perfon; but Captain Cook, who was fervcd by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not fwallow a morfel; and his reluctance, as may be fuppofed, was not diminifhcd, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this lafl ceremony was finifhed, which Captain Cook put an end to as foon as he decently could, we quitted the Moral, after diftributing amongft the people fome pieces of iron and other trifles, with which they feemed highly gratified. The men with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating the fame words as before. The people again retired, and the few that remained, proftrated themfelves as we palled along the more. We immediately went on board, our minds full of what we had feen, and extremely well fatisfied with the good difpofitions of our new friends. The meaning of the various ceremonies, with which we had been received, and which, on account of their novelty and angularity, have been related at length, can only be the fubject of conjectures, and thofe uncertain and partial: they were, however, without doubt, cxpreilive of high re-fpect on the part of the natives; and, as far as related to the perfon of Captain Cook, they feemed approaching to adoration. The next morning, I went on fhore with a guard of eight Mond«) is. marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to ercet the obfervatory in fuch a fituation as might bcfl enable me to fuperintend and protect the waterers, and Vol. III. c the '779 the other working parties that were to be on fhore. As '-1—j we were viewing a fpot conveniently fituated for this pur- pofe, in the middle of the village, Pareea, who was always ready to fhew both his power and his good will, offered to pull down fome houfcs that would have obftructed our obfervations, However, we thought it proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of fweet potatoes adjoining to the Moral, which was readily granted us; and the priefls, to prevent the intrufion of the natives, immediately confe-crated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was inclofed. This fort of religious interdiction they call taboo; a word we heard often repeated, during our flay amongft thefe iflanders, and found to be of very powerful and cxtenfive operation. A more particular explanation of it will be given in the general account of thefe iflands, under the article of religion ; at prefent it is only neceffary to obferve, that it procured us even more privacy than we defired. No canoes ever prefumcd to land near us; the natives fat on the wall, but none offered to come within the tabooed fpace, till he had obtained our permiffion.. But though the men, at our requeft, would come acrofs the field with provifions, yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach us. Prefents wrere tried, but without effect; Pareea and Koah were tempted to bring them, but in vain ; we were invariably anfwered, that the Eatooa and Terreeoboo (which was the name of their king) would kill them. This circumflance afforded no fmall matter of amufement to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them alrnofl every hour to clear the veffel, in order to have room room to do the neceflary duties of the fhip. On thefe oo jjJJJ^ cafions, two or three hundred women were frequently made i—* to jump into the water at once, where they continued fwim-ming and playing about, till they could again procure admittance. From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us Tuefday I9. to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on fome other part of the ifland, nothing very material happened on board. The caulkers were fet to work on the fides of the fhips, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The faking of hogs for fea-flore was alfo a conflant, and one of the principal objects of Captain Cook's attention. As the fuccefs we met with in this experiment, during our prefent voyage, was much more complete than it had been in any former attempt of the fame kind, it may not be improper to give an account of the detail of the operation. It has generally been thought impracticable to cure the flefh of animals by faking, in tropical climates; the pro-grefs of putrefaction being fo rapid, as not to allow time for the fait to take (as they exprefs it) before the meat gets a taint, which prevents the effect of the pickle. We do not find that experiments relative to this fubject have been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain Cook. In bis fail trials, which were made in 1774, during his fecond voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the fuccefs he met with, though very imperfect, was yet fufficient to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As the voyage, in which he was now engaged, was likely to be protracted a year beyond the time for which the fhips had been victualled, he was under the neceflity of providing, by fome fuch means, for the C 2 fubxiflence fubfiftence of the crews, or of relinquishing the further profecution of his difcoveries. He therefore loft no opportunity of renewing his attempts, and the event anfwered his molt fanguine expectations. The hogs, which we made ufe of for this purpofe, were of various fizes, weighing from four to twelve ftone *. The time of flaughtering was always in the afternoon ; and as foon as the hair was fcalded off, and the entrails removed, the hog was divided into pieces of four or eight pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out; and* in the larger fort, the ribs alfo. Every piece then being carefully wiped and examined, and the veins cleared of the coagulated blood, they were handed to the falters, whilft the flefh remained ftill warm. After they had been well rubbed with fait, they were placed in a heap, on a ftage raifed in the open air, covered with planks, and prefled with the heavier! weights we could lay on them. In this fituation they remained till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the fufpicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of ftrong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken the fair, which was readily difcovered by the fmell of the pickle, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the found pieces put to frefh pickle. This, however, after the precautions before ufed, feldom happened. After fix days, they were taken out, examined for the laft time, and being again flightly preffed, they were packed in barrels, with a thin layer of fait between them. I brought home with me fome barrels of this pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in January 1779, and was tafted * 141b, by by feveral perfons in England about Chriftmas 1780, and j-^Sy. found perfectly found and wholefome *. I mall now return to our tranfactions- on fhore at the obfervatory, where we had not been long fettled, before we discovered, in our neighbourhood, the habitations of a fo~ ciety of priefts, whofe regular attendance at the Moral had excited our curiofity. Their huts flood round a pond of water, and were furrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut trees^ which feparated them from the beach and the reft of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquainting Captain Cook with thefe circumftances, he refolved to pay them a vifit; and as he expected to be received in the fame manner as before, he brought Mr. Webber wih him to make a drawing of the ceremony f. On his atrival at the beach, he was conducted to a facred building called Harre-no-Orono, or the houfe of Oronoi and feated before the entrance, at the foot of a wooden idol, of the fame kind with thofe on the Moral. I was here again made to fupport one of his arms, and after wrapping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priefts, * Since thefe papers were prepared for the prefs, I have been informed by Mr. Vancouver, who was one of my Midihipmen in the Difcovery, and was afterward appointed Lieutenant of the Martin floop of war, that he tried the method here recommended, both with Englifh and Spanifh pork, .during a cruize on. the Spantfh Main, in the year 1782, and fucceeded to the utmoft of his expectations. He alfo made the experiment at Jamaica with the beef ferved by the victualling office to the fhips, but not with the fame fuccefs, which he attributes to the want of the neceflary precautions m killing and handling the beafts ; to their being hung up and opened before they had fufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-vefl*els were expofed to the air, and the blood condenfed before it had time to empty itfelf; and to their being hard driven and bruifed. He adds, that having himfelf attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken on board the Martin, he falted a part of it, which at the end of the week was found to have taken the fait completely, and he has no doubt would have kept for any length of time ; but the experiment was not tried. + See Plate, Number LXI. 1 made: I4 AVOYAGETO ,779- made an offering of a pig with the ufual folemnities. The January. * ° C—pig was then flrangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into the embers, and after the hair was ftnged off, it was again prefented, with a repetition of the chanting, in the manner before defcribed. The dead pig was then held for a fhort time under the Captain's nofe; after winch it was laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet, and the performers fat down. The ava was then brewed, and handed round ; a fat hog, ready dreffed, was brought in ; and we were fed as before. During the refl of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on more, he was attended by one of thefe priefls, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to pro-flrate themfelves. The fame perfon alfo conflantly accompanied him on the water, flanding in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left off paddling, and lay down on their facestill he had paffed. Whenever he flopped at the obfervatory^ Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. and prefented them with the ufual folemnities. It was on thefe occafions that fome of the inferior chiefs frequently re-quefled to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this was granted, they prefented the hog themfelves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances; whilfl Kaireekeea and the priefls chanted their accullomcd hymns. The civilities of this fociety were not, however, confined to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on fhore received 7 , from TAE- PACIFIC OCEAN. *J from them, every day, a conflant fupply of hogs and vege- «7T^ tables, more than fullicient for our fubfiftance; and fe- -(—»■ veral canoes loaded with provifions were fent to the ihips with the fame punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or even hinted at in the moftdiftant manner. Tneir prefents were made with a regularity, more like the difcharge of a religious duty, than the effect: of mere liberality ; and when we enquired at whofe charge all this munificence was dif-played, we were told, it was at the expence of a great man called Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, and grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was at that time abfent attending the king of the ifland. As every thing relating to the character and behaviour ©f this people muft be interefling to the reader, on account of the tragedy that was afterward acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we had not always fo much reafon to be fatisfied with the conduct of the warrior chiefs or Earees, as with that of the priefts. In all our dealings with the former, we found them fufficiently attentive to their own interefts; and befides their habit of ftealing, which may admit of fome excufe, from the univerfality of the practice amongft the illanders of thefe feas, they made: lafe of other artifices equally difhonourable. 1 fliall only mention one inftance, in which we difcovered, with regret, °ur friend Koah to be a party principally concerned. As the chiefs, who brought us prefents of hogs, were always fent back handfomely rewarded, we had generally a greater fup-Pty than we could make ufe of. On thefe occafions, Koah, who never failed in his attendance on us, ufed to beg fuch as we did not want, and they were always given to him. It one day happened, that a pig was prefented us by a man whom Koah himfelf introduced as a chief, who was dc- January &l0US °^ PavmS ms refpects, and we recollected the pig *—i-' to be the fame that had been given to Koah juft before. This leading us to fufpect fome trick, we found, on further inquiry, the pretended chief to be an ordinary perfon; and on connecting this with other circumftances, we had reafon to fufpect, that it was not the firft time we had been the dupes of the like impofition. Sunday 24. Things continued in this ftate till the 24th, when we were a good deal furprized to find that no canoes were fuffered to put off from the fhore, and that the natives kept clofe to their houfes. After feveral hours fufpence, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourfe with us interdicted, on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As we had not fore-feen an accident of this fort, the crews of both fhips were obliged to pafs the day without their ufual fupply of vege- Monday 25. tables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, both by threats and promifes, to induce the natives to come along-fide; and as fome of them were at laft venturing to put off, a chief was obferved attempting to drive them away. A mufquet was immediately fired over his head, to make him defift, which had the defired effect, and refreshments were foon after purchafed as ufual. In the afternoon, Terreeoboo arrived, and vifited the fhips in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He flaid on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. Tuefday 26. The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, let out from the village, and paddled toward the fhips in great ftate. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the firft canoe was Terreeoboo and his chiefs, dreffed in their rich feathered clokes .and helmets, and armed with long fpcars and daggers; in the the fccond, came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the ^ priefts, and his brethren, with their idols difplayed on red cloth. Thefe idols were bufts of a gigantic fize, made of wicker-work, and curiouily covered with fmall feathers of various colours, wrought in the fame manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oyfters, with a black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were fet with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the reft of their features, were ftrangcly diftorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and various forts of vegetables. As they went along, the priefts in the centre canoe fung their hymns with great folemnity; and after paddling round the fhips, inftead of going on board, as was expected, they made toward the fhore at the beach where we were flationed *. As foon as I faw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to receive the king; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on fhore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the fame time. We conducted them into the tent, where they had fcarcely been fcated, when the king rofe up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the Captain's fhoulders the cloak he himfelf wore, put a feathered helmet upon his head, and a curious fan into his hand. He alfo fpread at his feet five or fix other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greateft value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with fugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceremony was concluded by the king's exchanging names with^Captain Cook, which, amongft all the iflanders of the Pacific Ocean, is * This curious ceremony is rcprcfented in the annexed print, made to Captain Cook after he went on fhore. Vol. HI. d The prefents were efteemed '2 efleemed the ftrongeft pledge of friendfhip. A proceffion oi** v , ■„> priefts, with a venerable old perfonage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train of men leading large, hogs, and others carrying plantains, fweet potatoes, See. By the looks and geflures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priefts before, mentioned, on whofe bounty we had fo long fubfifted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped, round Captain Cook's moulders, and afterward prefented. him with a fmall pig in the ufual form. A feat was then, made for him, next to the king, after which, Kaireekeea and his followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs joining in the refponfes. I. wa$ furprized to fee, in. the perfon of this king the fame, infirm and emaciated old man, that came on board the Refolution when wc were off the North Eaft fide of. the ifland of Mowee ; and we foon discovered amongft his attendants? moft of the perfons- who at that time had remained with us all night. Of this number were the two younger fons. of the king, the eldcft of whom was fixtccn years of agc,„ and his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at firft wc had fome. difficulty in recollecting, his hair being plaftered over with, a dirty, brown pafte and powder, which was no mean heightening to the moft ravage face I ever beheld. As foon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Refolution. They were re* ccived with every mark of refpect that could be fhewn them ; and Captain Cook, in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen fhirt on the king, and girt his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, and about half a dozen more old chiefs, 8 remained remained on fhore, and took up their abode at the priefls 1779-houfes. During all this time, not a canoe was fecn in J^ZLj. the bay, and the natives either kept within their huts, or lay prodratc on the ground. Before the king left the Refolution, Captain Cook obtained leave for the natives to come and trade with the fhips as ufual; but the women for what rcafon we could not learn, flill continued under the effects of the taboo; that is, were forbidden to fHr from home, or to have any communication with us. CHAP, CHAP. II. Farther Account of TranfaSiions with the Natives.—Their Hofpitality.—Propenfty to Theft.—Defcription of a Boxing Match.—Death of one of our Seamen.—Behaviour of the Priefls at his FimeraL—The Wood Work a7td Images on the Morai purchafed.—The Natives in-quiftive about our Departure.—Their Opinion about the Defgn of our Voyage.—Magnificent Prefents of Terreeoboo to Captain Cook,—The Ships leave the Ifland.—• The Refolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return. 1779. January. H E quiet and inoffenfive behaviour of the natives JL having taken away every apprehcnfion of danger, we did not hefitate to truft ourfelves amongft them at all times, and in all fituations. The Officers of both mips went daily up the country, in fmall parties, or even fingly, and frequently remained out the whole night. It would be endlcfs to recount all the inflances of kindnefs and civility which we received upon thofe occafions. Wherever we went, the people flocked about us, eager to offer every afliftance in their power, and highly gratified if their fervices were accepted. Various little arts were practiced to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran before, as we walked through their villages, and flopped us at every opening, where there was room to form a group 5or dancing. At one time, wc were invited to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or fome other refreshment under under the fhade of their huts; at another, we were feated within a circle of young women, who exerted all their fkill and agility to amufe us with fongs and dances. The fatisfaction we derived from their gentlenefs and hofpitality, was, however, frequently interrupted by that propenfity to ftcaling, which they have in common with all the other iilanders of thefe feas. This circumftance was the more diftrefling, as it fometimes obliged us to have re-courfe to acts of fevcrity, which we mould willingly have avoided, if the ncceflity of the cafe had not abfolutely called for them. Some of their moft expert fwimmers were one day difcovercd under the fhips, drawing out the filling nails of the fheathing, which they performed very dexteroufly by means of a fliort flick, with a flint flone fixed in the end of it. To put a flop to this practice, which endangered the very exiftencc of the veffels, we at firft fired fmall fhot at the offenders; but they eafily got out of our reach by diving under the fhip's bottom. It was therefore found neceffary to make an example, by flogging one of them on board the Difcovery. About this time, a large party of gentlemen, from both mips, fet out on an excurfion into the interior parts of the country, with a view of examining its natural productions. An account of this journey will be given in a fubfequent part of our narrative. It is, therefore, only neceffary at pi c-fent to obferve, that it afforded Kaoo a frefli opportunity of ihewing his attention and generofity. For as foon as he was informed of their departure, he fent a large fupply of pro vifions after them, together with orders, that the inhabitants of the country through which they were to pafs, mould give them every ailiftance in their power, And, to complete January. ^e delicacy and difmtcrcfledncfs of his conduce, even the •1779. J —„-' people he employed could not be prevailed on to accept the fmalieft prefent. After remaining out fix days, our Officers returned, without having been able to penetrate above twenty miles into the ifland ; partly from want of proper guides, and partly from the impracticability of the country. Weducf. The head of the .Refolution's rudder being found ex- ceedingly fhaken, and moft of the pintles either loofe or broken, it was unhung, and fent on fhore, on the 27th in the morning, to undergo a thorough repair. At the fame time, the carpenters were fent into the country, under conduct of fome of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the the head rail work, which was alfo entirely decayed and rotten. Tharfday*a* On the 28th, Captain Gierke, whofe ill health confined him, for the moft part, on board, paid Terreeoboo his firft vifit, at his hut on fhore. He was received with the fame formalities as were obferved with Captain Cook; and, on his coming away, though the vifit was quite unexpected, he received a prefent of thirty large hogs, and as much fruit and roots as his crew could confume in a week. As we had not yet fecn any thing of their fports or athletic cxercifes, the natives, at the rcqueft of fome of our Officers, entertained us this evening with a boxing-match. Though thefe games were much inferior, as well in point of folemnity and magnificence, as in the fkill and powers of the combatants, to what we had feen exhibited at the friendly Iflands; yet, as they differed in fome particulars, it may not be improper to givcafhort account of them. We found a vaft concourfe of people affembled on a level fpot of ground, at a little diftance from our tents. A long fpace was was left vacant in the midft of them, at the upper end of J which fat the judges, under three flandards, from which hung flips of cloth of various colours, the fkins of two wild gcefc, a few fmall birds, and bunches of feathers. Wheri the fports were ready to begin, the fignal was given by the judges, and immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward flowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing their hands along the folcs. As they approached, they frequently eyed each other from head to foot, in a contemptuous manner, calling feveral arch looks at the fpectators, draining their mufcles, and tiling a variety of affected gcflures. Being advanced within reach of each other, they flood with both arms held out ftraight before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed. They flruck, in what appeared to our eyes an awkward manner, with a full fwing of the arm; made no attempt to parry, but eluded their adverfary's attack by an inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was quickly decided ; for if either of them was knocked down, or even fell by accident, he was confidered as vanquished, and the victor exprcfled his triumph by a variety of geflures, which ufually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among the fpectators. He then waited for a fecond antagonifl; and if again victorious, for a third, till he was, at laft, in his turn defeated. A Angular rule obferved in thefe combats is, that whilfl any two arc preparing to fight, a third perfon raay flcp in, and choofc either of them for his antagonifl, when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or four followed each other in this manner, before the match "was fettled. When the combat proved longer than ufual, or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally flopped in, and ended it by putting a flick between the combatants- The 1779- The fame good humour was prefervcd throughout, which we —v—before fo much admired in the Friendly Iflanders. As thefe games were given at our defire, we found it was univerfally expected, that we fhould have borne our part in them > but our people, though much prehed by the natives, turned a deaf ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they got at the Friendly Iflands. This day died William Watman, a fcaman of the gunner's crew; an event which I mention the more particularly, as death had hitherto been very rare amongft us. He was an old man, and much refpected on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. He had formerly ferved as a marine twenty-one years; after which he entered as a fea-man on board the Refolution in 1772, and ferved with Captain Cook in his voyage toward the South Pole. At their return, he was admitted into Greenwich hofpital, through the Captain's intereft, at the fame time with himfelf 3 and being refolved to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, he alfo quitted it along with him, on his being appointed to the command of the prefent expedition. During the voyage, he had frequently been fubject to flight fevers, and was a convalescent when we came into the bay, where being fent on fhore for a few days, he conceived himfelf perfectly recovered, and, at his own defire, returned on board; but the day following, he had a paralytic ftroke, which in two days more carried him off. At the requefl of the king of the ifland, he was buried on the Morai, and the ceremony was performed with as much folemnity as our fituation permitted. Old Kaoo and his brethren were fpectators, and prefervcd the mofl profound filence and attention, whilft the fervice was reading. When When we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with W>» great reverence, threw in a dead pig, fome cocoa-nuts, and »- plantains j and, for three nights afterward, they furrounded it, facrificing hogs, and performing their ufual ceremonies of hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break. At the head of the grave, we erected a port, and nailed upon it a fquare piece of board, on which was inferibed the name of the deceafed, his age, and the day of his death. This they promifed not to remove? and wc have no doubt, but that it will be fuffered to remain, as long as the frail materials, of which it is made, will permit. The fhips being in great want of fuel, the Captain de-fired me, on the qd of February, to treat with the priefls, for Tuefday*, the purchafc of the rail> that furrounded the top of the Morai. I mult confefs, I had, at firft, fome doubt about the decency of this propofal, and was apprehenfive, that even the bare mention of it might be confidcred, by them, as a piece of mocking impiety. In this, however, 1 found my-felf miflaken. Not the fmallefl furprize was expreffed at the application, and the wood was readily given, even without flipulating for any thing in return. Whilfl the failors were taking it away, I obferved one of them carrying off a carved image ; and, on further inquiry, I found, that they had conveyed to the boats the whole * femicircle. Though this was done in the prefence of the natives, who had not Ihewn any mark of refentment at it, but had even aflifled them in the removal, I thought it proper to fpeak to Kaoo, on the fubject; who appeared very indifferent about the matter, and only delired, that W£ would reflore the centre * See defcription of the Morai, in the preceding Chapter. Vol. III. E image, image, I have mentioned before, which lie carried into one of the priefVs houfcs. Terreeoboo, and his Chiefs, had, for fome days paft, been very inquifnive about the time of our departure. This cir-cumflancehad excited in me a great curiofity to know, what opinion this people had formed of us, and what were their ideas refpecting the caufe and objects of our voyage. I took fome pains to fatisfy myfclf on thefe points j but could never learn any thing farther, than that they imagined wTe came from fome country where provifions had failed ; and that our vifit to them was merely for the purpofe of filling our bellies. Indeed, the meagre appearance of fome of our crew, the hearty appetites with which we fat down to their frefli provifions, and our great anxiety to purchafe, and carry off, as much as we were able, led them, naturally enough, to fuch a conclufion. To thefe may be added, a circum-fiance which puzzled them exceedingly, our having no women with us j together with our quiet conduct, and unwar-like appearance. It was ridiculous enough to fee them flroking the fides, and patting the bellies, of the failors (f\\ho were certainly much improved in the fleeknefs of their looks, during our fhort flay in the ifland), and telling them, partly by figns, and partly by words, that it was time for them to go; but if they would come again the next bread-fruit feafon, they fhould be better able to fupply their wants. We had now been fixteen days in the bay; and if our enormous confumption of hogs and vegetables be con-lidered, it need not be wondered, that they fhould wifh to fee us take our leave. It is \ery probable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view, in his inquiries, at prefent, than a defire of making fufficient preparation for difmifling OS. us with prefents, fuitablc to the refpedt and kindnefs with l779> .... . . . February. which he had received us. For, on our telling him we «-„-f fhould leave the ifland on the next day but one, we obferved, that a fort of proclamation was immediately made, through the villages, to require the people to bring in their hogs, and vegetables, for the king to prefent to the Orono, on his departure. We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the buffooneries of one of the natives. Fie held in his hand an inflrumcnt, of the fort defcribed in the lafl volume*; fome bits of fea-weed were tied round his neck; and round each leg, a piece of flrong netting, about nine inches deep, on which a great number of dogs' teeth were loofely fattened, in rows. His flyle of dancing was entirely burlefque, and accompanied with flrange grimaces, and pantomimical diftortions of the face; which though at times inexpreilibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without much meaning, or expreflion. Mr. Webber thought it worth his while to make a drawing of this perfon, as exhibiting a tolerable fpecimen of the natives; the manner in which the maro is tied; the figure of the inftrument before mentioned, and of the ornaments round the legs, which, at other times, wc alfo faw ufed by their dancers. In the evening, we were again entertained with wreflling and boxing matches ; and wc difplayed, in return, the few fireworks wc had left. Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration of thefe inlanders, and to imprefs them with an idea of our great fuperiority, than an exhibition of this kind. Captain Cook has already defcribed the extraordinary effects of that which was made at Flapacc; • Sec Vol. ii. p. 236, E 2 s and FeKary anc* tnou£n me prefent was, in every refpecl, infinitely in-v—' ferior, yet the aftonifhment of the natives was not lefs. I have before mentioned, that the carpenters, from both mips, had been fent up the country to cut planks, for the head rail-work of the Refolution. This was the third day fmce their departure; and having received no intelligence from them, we began to be very anxious for their fafety. We were communicating our apprehenfions to old Kabo, who appeared as much concerned as ourfelves, and were concerting meafures with him, for fending after them, when they arrived all fafe. They had been obliged to go farther into the country than was expected, before they met with trees fit for their purpofe; and it was this circumflance, together with the badncfs of the roads, and the difficulty of bringing back the timber, which had detained them fo long. They fpoke in high terms of their guides, who both fup-plied them with provifions, and guarded their tools with the utmofl fidelity. The next day, being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo Wcdnef. 3. invited Captain Cook and myfelf to attend him, on the 3d, to the place, where Kaoo rcfided. On our arrival, we found the ground covered with parcels of cloth j a vail quantity of red and yellow feathers, tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut hufks; and a great number of hatchets, and other pieces of iron-ware, that had been got in barter from us. At a little diftance from thefe, lay an immenfe quantity of vegetables, of every kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. At firft, we imagined the whole to be intended as a prefent for us, till Kaireekeea informed me, that it was a gift, or tribute, from the people of that diflrict: to the king ; and, accordingly, as foon as wc were featcd, they brought all the bundles, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 bundles, and laid them feverally at Terrecoboo's feet; fpread- _ V7» ' 1 rebruary. ing out the cloth, and difplaying the feathers, and iron- '-,--1 ware, before him. The king feemed much pleafcd with this mark of their duty j and having felected about a third part of the iron-ware, the fame proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of cloth, thefe were fet afide, by themfelves ; and the remainder of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were afterward prefented to Captain Cook, and myfelf. We were ailonifhed at the value and magnitude of this prefent, which far exceeded every thing of the kind we had feen, cither at the Friendly or Society Iflands. Boats were immediately fent, to carry them on board ; the large hogs were picked out, to be faked for fea-flore; and upward of thirty fmaller pigs, and the vegetables, were divided between the two crews. The fame day, we quitted the Morai, and got the tents and agronomical inftruments on board. The charm of the taboo < was now removed; and we had no fooner left the place, than the natives rufhed in, and fearched eagerly about, in expectation of finding fomething of value, that we might have left behind. As I happened to remain the laft on fhore,., and waited for the return of the boat, feveral came crowding about me, and having made me fit down by them, began to lament our feparation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty, I was able to quit them. And here, I hope I may be permitted to relate a trifling occurrence, in which I was principally concerned.. Having had the command of the party on more, during the whole time we were in the bay, "1 had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being better known to them, than thofe whole duty required them to be generally on board. As I had every reafon to be fatisfied with their kindnefs, in general, , FcVru9' nera^ 1 cannot too often, nor too particularly, mention <—,—1/ the unbounded and conftant friendship of their priefts. On my part, I fpared no endeavours to conciliate their affections, and gain their efteem ; and I had the good fortune to fucceed fo far, that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was ftrongly folicited to remain behind, not without offers of the moft flattering kind. When I excufed myfelf, by faying, that Captain Cook would not give his content, they propofed, that I fhould retire into the mountains j where, they faid, they would conceal me, till after the departure of the mips ; and on my farther affuring them, that the Captain would not leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whofe fon they fuppofed I was, with a formal requeft, that I might be left behind. The Captain, to avoid giving a pofitive re-fufal, to an offer fo kindly intended, told them, that he could not part with me, at that time, but that he fhould return to the ifland next year, and would then endeavour to fettle the matter to their fatisfaction. Thurfday4. Early in the morning of the 4th, we unmoored, and failed out of the bay, with the Difcovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's de-fign was to finifh the furvey of Owhyhee, before he vifited the other iflands, in hopes of meeting with a road better flickered, than the bay wc had juft left; and in cafe of not fuccecding here, he purpofed to take a view of the South Eaft part of Mowee, where the natives informed us we mould find an excellent harbour. Friday 5. We had calm weather all this and the following day, which made our progrefs to the Northward very flow. Wc were accompanied by a great number of the natives in their their canoes; and Terreeoboo gave a frefh proof of his fricndfliip to Captain Cook, by a large prefent of hogs, and v.—-vegetables, that was fent after him. In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, we made fome way to the Northward ; and in the morning of the 6th, having paffed the Wefternmoft point of the Saturday6Y ifland* we found ourfelvcs abreaft of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes, that this bay would furnilh us with a fafc and commodious harbour, as we law, to the North Eaft, feveral fine ftreams of water ; and the whole had the appearance of being well fheltcred. Thefe obfervations agreeing with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment to us, into Eritannee, the pinnace was hoifted out, and the Matter, with Britannee for his guide, was fent to examine the bay, whilft the fhips worked up after them. In the afternoon, the weather became gloomy, and the guffs of wind, that blew off the land, were fo violent, as to make it neceffary to take in all the fails,and bring to, under the mizen flay-fail. All the canoes left us, at the beginning of the gale; and Mr. Bligh, on his return, had the fatisfaction of faving an old woman, and two men, whofe canoe had been overfet by the violence of the wind, as they" were endeavouring to gain the fhore. Belides thefe dif-treffed people, we had a great many women on board, whom the natives had left behind, in their hurry to fhift for themfelves. The Matter reported to Captain Cook, that he had landed at the only village he faw, on the North fide of the bay, where he was directed to fome wells of water; but found, 3 they Z2 AVOYAGETO '779- they would by no means anfwer our purpofe ; that he after i_____ward proceeded farther into the bay, which runs inland to a great depth, and ftretches toward the foot of a very con-fpicuous high mountain, fituated on the North Wefl end of the ifland ; but that inftead of meeting with fafe anchorage, as Britannee had taught him to expect, he found the fhores low and rocky, and a flat bed of coral rocks running along the coaft, and extending upward of a mile from the land; on the eutfide of which, the depth of water was twenty fathoms, over a fandy bottom j and that, in the mean time, Britannee had contrived to flip away, being afraid of returning, as we imagined, becaufe his information had not proved true and fuccefsful. In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again made fail; but about midnight it blew fo violently, as to fplit both the fore and main topfails. On the morning of Sunday 7. the 7th, we bent frefh fails, and had fair weather, and a light breeze. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 200 i' North, the Weft point of the ifland bearing South, 7* Eaft, and the North Weft point North, 38" Eaft. As we were, at this time, four or five leagues from the fliore, and the weather very unfettlcd, none of the canoes would venture out, fo that our guefts were obliged to remain with us, much indeed to their diflatis faction ; for they were all fea-fick, and many of them had left young children behind them. In the afternoon, though the weather was ftill fqually, we flood in for the land, and being about three leagues from it, we law a canoe, with two men paddling toward us, which wc immediately conjectured had been driven off the fhore, by the late boifterous weather j and therefore flopped the \ the fhip's way, in order to take them in. Thefe poor ?JjJJ* wretches were fo entirely exhauftcd with fatigue, that had «—*—J not one of the natives on board, obferving their weaknefs, jumped into the canoe to their affiftance, they would fcarccly have been able to fallen it to the rope wc had thrown out for that purpofe. It was with difficulty we got them up the fhip's fide, together with a child, about four years old, which they had lafhed under the thwarts of the canoe, where it had Iain with only its head above water. They told us, they had left the fhore the morning before, and had been, from that time, without food or water. The ufual precautions were taken in giving them victuals, and the child being committed to the care of one of the women, wc found them all next morning perfectly recovered. At midnight, a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to double reef the topfails, and get down the top-gallant yards. On the 8th, at day-break, we found, that the fore- Monday %. mafl had again given way, the fifties, which were put on the head, in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coaft of America, being fprung, and the parts fo very defective, as to make it abfolutely nccelTary to replace them, and, of courfe, to unftcp the maft. In this difficulty, Captain Cook was for fome time in doubt, whether he fhould run the chance of meeting with a harbour in the iflands to leeward, or return to Karakakooa. That bay was not fo remarkably commodious, in any refpect, but that a better might probably be expected, both for the purpofe of repairing the mails, and for procuring refreshments, of which, it was imagined, that the . neighbourhood of Karakakooa had been already pretty well drained. On the other hand, it was confidered as too great a rifk to leave a place,-that was tolerably fheltered, and which, once left, could not be rc- Vol. III. F gained, '7 9- gained, for the mere hopes of meeting with a better; the February. . '-i—* failure of which might perhaps have left us without refource. We therefore continued (landing on toward the land, in order to give the natives an opportunity of relcafing their friends on board from their confinement; and, at noon, being within a mile of the fhore, a few canoes came off to us, but fo crowded with people, that there was not room in them for any of our gucfls; we therefore hoi fled out the pinnace to carry them on more j and the Mafler, who went with them, had directions to examine the South coalls of the bay for water j but returned without finding any. The winds being variable, and a current fetting flrong to the Northward, we made but little progrefs in our return; Tuefday 9. and at eight o'clock in the evening of the 9th, it began to blow very hard from the South Eaft, which obliged us to clofe reef the topfails \ and at two in the morning of the Wednef. 10. ioth, in a heavy fquall, we found ourfelvcs clofe in with the breakers, that lie to the Northward of the Wed point of Owhyhee. We had juft room to haul off, and avoid them, and fired fevcral guns to apprize the Difcovery of the danger. In the forenoon, the weather' was more moderate, and a few canoes came off to us, from which we learnt/ that the late florins had done much mifchicf; and that feveral large canoes had been loft. During the remainder of the day, we kept beating to windward; and, before night, we were within a mile of the bay, but not choofing to run on, while Thurfdayn. it was dark, we flood off and on till day-light next morning, when we dropt anchor nearly in the fame place as before, o C H A P, C II A P. III. Sufpicious Behaviour of the Natives, on car Return to Karakakooa Bay—Theft on board the Difcovery, and its Confequences\—The Pinnace attacked, and the Qrew obliged to quit her.—Captain Cook's Obfervations on the Occafion,—Attempt at the Obfervatory.—The Cutter of the Difcovery folen.—Me a fur es taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery.—Goes on Shore, to invite the King on board, —The King being flopped by his Wife, and the Chief, a . Contefl arifes.—News arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed, by one offur People. — Ferment on this Oc-cafioni—One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is fhot by him.—General Attack by the Natives.—Death of Captain Cook. — Account of the Captains Services, and a Sketch of his CharaEler. \X J E were employed the whole of the nth, and part of Fc'b7r^y ▼ V the 12th, in getting; out the forcmaff, and fending —-- to ° & Tliurfday i it, with the carpenters, on fhore. Befidcs the damage Friday 12. which the head of the mail had fuflaincd, we found the heel exceedingly rotten, having a large hole up the middle of it, capable of holding four or five cocoa-nuts.- It was not, however, thought necclTary to fhortcn it; and fortunately, the logs of red toa-wood, which had been cut at Eimeo, for anchor-flocks, were found fit to replace the fprung parts of the fifties. As thefe repairs were likely to F 2 0 ' take take up feveral days, Mr, Bayly and myfelf, got the aftro-nomical apparatus on more, and pitched our tents on the Moraii having with us a guard of a corporal and fix marines. We renewed our friendly correfpondence with the priefts, who, for the greater fecurity of the workmen, and their tools, tabooed the place where the maft lay, flicking their wands round it, as before. The fail makers were alfo fent on fhore, to repair the damages which had taken place in their department, during the late gales. They were lodged in a houfc adjoining to the Morai, that was lent us by the priefts. Such were our arrangements on fhore. I ihall now proceed to the account of thofe other tranfactions with the natives, which led, by degrees, to the fatal cata-flrophe of the 14th. Upon coming to anchor, we were furprized to find our reception very different from what it had been on our firft arrival j no fhouts, no buftle, no confufion ; but a folitary bay, with only here and there a canoe ftealing clofe along the fhore. The impulfe of curiofity, which had before operated to fo great a degree, might now indeed be fuppofed to have ecafed; but the hofpitable treatment we had invariably met with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us fome reafon to expect, that they would again have flocked about us with great joy, on our return. We were forming various conjectures, upon the occafion of this extraordinary appearance, when our anxiety was at length relieved by the return of a boat, which had been fent on fhore, and brought us word, that Terreeoboo was ab-fent, and had left the bay under the taboo. Though this account appeared very fatisfactory to moft of us ; yet others were of opinion, or rather, perhaps, have been led, by fub- fecruent fcquent events, to imagine, that there was forflethios;, at _1779* 10 0 February. this time, very fufpicioua in the behaviour of the natives -> — and that the interdiction of all intercourfc with us, on pretence of the king's abfence, was only to give him time to confult with his Chiefs, in what manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether thefe fufpicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was the truth, we were never able to afcertain. For though it is not improbable, that our fudden return, for which they could fee' no apparent caufe, and the neceflity of which we afterward found it very difficult to make them comprehend, might occafion fome alarm ; yet the unfufpicious conduct: of Terreeoboo, who, on his fuppofed arrival, the next morning, came immediately to vifit Captain Cook, and the confequent return of the natives to their former friendly intcrcourfe with us, arc flrong proofs, that they neither meant, nor apprehended, any change of conduct. In fupport of this opinion, I may add the account of another accident, precifely of the fame kind, which happened to us, on our firft vifit, the day before the arrival of the king. A native had fold a hog on board the Refolution, and taken the price agreed on, when Pareea, paffing by, advifed the man not to part with the hog, without an advanced price. For this, he was fharply fpoken to, and pufhed away ; and the taboo being foon after laid on the bay, we had at firft no doubt, but that it was in confequencc of the offence given to" the Chief. Both thefe accidents fcrve to fhew, how very difficult it is to draw any certain eonclufion from the actions of people, with whofc cuftoms, as well as language, we arc fo imperfectly acquainted j at the fame time, fome idea may be formed from them, of the difficulties, at the firft view, perhaps, not very apparent,. which 1779. which thofe have to encounter, who, in all their tranf- Februarv. w—,-t actions with thefe (Irangcrs, have to fleer their courfe amidfl fo much uncertainty, where a trifling error may be attended With even the moft fatal confequences. However true or falfe our conjectures may be, things went on in their ufual Saturday 13. qUjC|; courfe, till the afternoon of the j3ill. Toward the evening of that day, the officer who commanded the watering-party of the Difcovery, came to inform mc, that fever a] Chiefs had affcmblcd at the well near the beach, driving away the natives, whom he had hired to ailift the failors in rolling down the cafks to the lhorc. He told mc, at the fame time, that he thought their behaviour extremely fufpicious, and that they meant to give him fome farther difturbance. At his rcqtiefl, therefore, 1 fent a marine along with him, but fuffercd him to take only hisfidc-arms. In a fhort time, the officer returned, and on his acquainting me, that the iflanders had armed tlicmfelves with Hones, and were grown very tumultuous, I went myfelf to the fpot, attended by a marine, with his mufquet. Seeing us approach, they threw away their ltones, and, on my fpeaking to fome of the Chiefs, the mob were driven away, and thofe who chofc if, were fullered to aflifh in filling the cafks. Having left things quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I faw coming on fhore, in the pinnace. I related to him what had juft palled; and he ordered me, in cafe of their beginning to throw ftones, or behave info-lently, immediately to fire a ball at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal, to have the pieces of the fcntinels loaded with ball, inflead of fmall fhot. Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued fire of mufquets, from the Difcovery, which we obferved obferved to be directed at a canoe, that wc faw paddling r\779' r ^ ° February, toward the fliore, in great hafte, purfued by one of our v—v- fmall boats. We immediately concluded, that the firing was in confequencc of fome theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to fcize the people, as they came on fhore. Accordingly we ran toward the place where we fuppofed the canoe would land, but were too late j the people having quitted it, and made their efcape into the country before our arrival. We were at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already reflored ; and as we thought it probable, from the circumftanccs we had at firft obferved, that they might be of importance, were unwilling to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore inquired of the natives, which way the people had fled, wc followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourfelvcs to be about three miles from the tents, and fufpecting, that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in the purfuit, were amufing us with falfe information, we thought it in vain to continue ' our fearch any longer, and returned to the beach. During our abfencc, a difference, of a more ferious and unplcafant nature, had happened. The officer, who had been fent in the fmall boat, and was returning on board, with the goods which had been refiorcd, obferving Captain Cook and me engaged in the purfuit of the offenders, • thought it his duty to fcize the canoe, which was left drawn up on the fhore. Unfortunately, this canoe belonged to Fareea, who arriving, at the fame moment, from on board the Difcovery, claimed his property, with many protcftations of his innocence. The officer refufing to give it up, and being being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a fcufile enfucd, in which Pareea was knocked down, by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. The natives, who were collected about the fpot, and had hitherto been peaceable fpectators, immediately attacked our people with fuch a fhower of flones, as forced them to retreat, with great precipitation, and fwim o{f to a rock, at fome diftance from the fhore. The pinnace was immediately ranfacked by the iflanders ; and, but for the timely in-terpolition of Pareea, who feemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the fame inflant, would foon have been entirely dcmolifhed. Having driven away the crowd, he made figns to our people, that they might come and take poffeffion of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a mid-fhipman's cap, and fome other trifling articles of the plunder, and, with much apparent concern at what had happened, afked, if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day? On being alfurcd, that he fhould be well received, he joined nofes (as their cuflom is) with the officers, in token of friendihip, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. When Captain Cook was informed of what had palled, he cxpreffed much uneafinefs at it, and as we were returning on board, " I am afraid," faid he, " that thefe people will oblige me to ufe fome violent mcafures; for," he added, " they muff not be left to imagine, that they have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take any ftcps this evening, he contented himfelf with giving orders, that every man and woman on board fhould be immediately turned out of the fhip. As foon as this order was was executed, I returned on fhore; and our former confidence in the natives being now much abated, by the events of the s-—*>—« day, I ported a double guard on the Moral, with orders to call me, if they faw any men lurking about the beach. At about eleven o'clock, five iflanders were obferved creeping round the bottom of the Morai \ they feemed very cautious in approaching us, and, at laft, finding themfelves discovered, retired out of fight. About midnight, one 'of them venturing up clofe to the obfervatory, the fcntinel fired over him j on which the men fled, and we paffed the remainder of the night without farther diflurbance. Next morning, at day-light, I went on board the Refolu- Sunday 14.. tion for the time-keeper, and, in my way, was hailed by the Difcovery, and informed, that their cutter had been flolen, during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board, I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilft I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night, he interrupted me, with fome eagernefs, and acquainted me with the lofs of the Difcovery's cutter, and with the preparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his ufual practice, whenever any thing of confequence was loft, at any of the iflands in this ocean, to get the king, or fome of the principal Erees, on board, and to keep them as hoft-ages, till it was reftored. This method, which had been always attended with fuccefs, he meant to purfue on the prefent occafion ; and, at the fame time, had given orders to flop all the canoes that fhould attempt to leave the bay, with an intention of feizing and deftroying them, if he could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accord-Vol. Ill, Q ingly* ingly, the boats of both mips, well manned and armed, were flationed acrofs the bay ; and, before I left the fhip, fome great guns had been fired at two large canoes, that were attempting to make their efcape. It was between feven and eight o'clock when we quitted the fhip together Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips, and nine marines with him; and myfelf in the fmall boat. The latl orders I received from him were, to quiet the minds of the natives, on our fide of the bay, by alluring them, they mould not be hurt; to keep my people together; and to be on my guard. We then parted j the Captain went toward Kowrowa, where the king refided; and I proceeded to the beach. My firfl care, on going afhore, was to give ftrict orders to the marines to remain within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Afterward I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo, and the priefls, and explained to them, as well as I could, the object of the hoftile preparations, which had exceedingly alarmed them. I found, that they had already heard of the cutter's being flolen, and I affured them, that though Captain Cook was refolved to recover it, and to punifh the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on our fide, need not be under the fmalleft apprehenfion of fullering any evil from us. I defired the priefls to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo afked me, with great earneflnefs, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt ? I affured him, he was not; and both he and the refl of his brethren feemed much fatisfied with this affurance. In the mean time, Captain Cook, having called off the launch, which was flationed at the North point of the bay, and 4 taken taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed p^JS' with the Lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately v—v-/ marched into the village, where he was received with the ufual marks of refpect; the people proftrating themfelves before him, and bringing their accuftomed offerings of fmall hogs. Finding that there was no fufpicion of his de-fign, his next Hep was, to inquire for Terreeoboo, and the two boys, his fons, who had been his conftant guefts on board the Refolution. In a fhort time, the boys returned along with the natives, who had been fent in fearch of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the houfe where the king had flept. They found the old man jufl awoke from fleep ; and, after a fhort converfation about the lofs of the cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in no wife privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and fpend the day on board the Refolution. To this propofal the king readily confented, and immediately got up to accompany him. Things were in this profperous train, the two boys being already in the pinnace, and the reft of the party having advanced near the water-fide, when an elderly woman called Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears, and entreaties, befought him not to go on board. At the fame time, two Chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and infilling, that he fhould go no farther, forced him to fit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the fhore, and had probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns, and the appearances of hoftility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. In this fituation, the Lieutenant of marines, obferving that his men were huddled clofe G 2 together together in the crowd, and thus incapable of ufing their arms, if any occaiion fhould require it, propofed to the Captain, to draw them up along the rocks, clofe to the water's edge ; and the crowd readily making way for them to pafs, they were drawn up in a line, at the diflance of about thirty yards from the place where the king wa3 fitting. All this time, the old king remained on the ground, with the ftrongeft marks of terror and dejection in his countenance; Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on more, continuing to urge him, in the moft prefling manner, to proceed ; whilff, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him> the Chiefs, who flood round him, intcrpofed, at firft with prayers and entreaties, but afterward, having recourfe to force and violence, and infilled on his flaying where he was. Captain Cook therefore finding, that the alarm had fpread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off, without bloodflied, at laft gave up the point; obferving to Mr. Phillips, that it would be impoffible to compel him to go on board, without the rifk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprize, which had carried Captain Cook on fhore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his perfon did not appear to have been in the lead danger, till an accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, which had been flationed acrofs the bay, having fired at fome canoes, that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a Chief of the firft rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was, juft as he had left the king, and was walking flowly toward the Ihore. The ferment it occafioned was very confpicuous j the the women and children were immediately fent off; and *779' J February. the men put on their war-mats, and armed themfelves with - fpears and flones. One of the natives, having in his hands a flone, and a long iron fpike (which they call a fahooa) came up to the Captain, flourifhing his weapon, by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the flone. The Captain defired him to dcfift; but the man perfifting in his infolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of fmall-fhot. The man having his mat on, which the fhot were, not able to penetrate, this had no other effect than to irritate and encou.-rage them. Several flones were thrown at the marines; and one of the Ere.es attempted to flab Mr. Phillips with his pahooa; but failed in the attempt, and received from him.a blow with the but end of his mufquet. Captain Cook now-fired his fecond barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremoft of the natives. A general attack with flones immediately followed, which was anfwered by a difcharge of mufquetry from the marines, and the people in the boats. The iflanders, contrary to the expectations of every one, flood the fire with great firmnefs ; and before the marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful; fhouts and yells. What followed was a fcene of the utmoft horror and confufion. Four of the marines were cut off amongft the rocks in their retreat, and fell a facrifice to the fury of the enemy ;. three more weredangeroufly wounded; and the Lieutenant, who had received a flab between the fhoulders with a pahooa, having fortunately referved his lire, fhot the man who had wounded him juft as he was going to repeat his blow. Our unfortunate Commander, the lafl time he was feen diflinctly, was flanding at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to ceafe firing, and to pull in. If it be true, as fome of: of thofe who were prefent have imagined, that the marines and boat-men had fired without his orders, and mat he was defirous of preventing any further bloodfhed, it is not improbable, that his humanity, on this occafion, proved fatal to him. For it was remarked, that whilft he faced the natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he was {tabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On feeing him fall, the iflanders fet up a great fhout, and his body was immediately dragged on fhore, and furrounded by the enemy, who matching the dagger out of each other's hands, fhewed a favage eagernefs to have a fhare in his deftruction. Thus fell our great and excellent Commander! After a life of fo much diflinguifhed and fuccefsful enterprize, his death, as far as regards himfelf, cannot be reckoned premature ; fince he lived to finifh the great work for which he feems to have been defigned j and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cutoff from the acquifition, of glory. Flow fincerely his lofs was felt and lamented, by thofe who had fo long found their general fecurity in his fkill and con-duel:, and every confolation, under their hardfhips, in his tendernefs and humanity, it is neither neceffary nor poflible for me to defcribe; 'much lefs fhall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were flruck, and the univerfal dejection and ciifmay, which followed fo dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The reader will not be difpleafed to turn from fo fad a fcene, to the contemplation of his character and virtues, whilft I am paying my laft tribute to the memory of a dear and honoured friend, in a fhort hiftory of his life, and public ferviccs. Captain ♦ Captain James Cook was born near Whitby, in York- Feb7rJ^ mire, in the year 1727; and, at an early age, was put ap- <■—-—-> prentice to a fhopkeeper in a neighbouring village. His natural inclination not having been confulted on this occafion, he foon quitted the counter from difguft, and bound himfelf, for nine years, to the mailer of a veffel in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war in 1755, he entered into the king's fervice, on board the Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterward by Sir Hugh Pallifcr, who foon discovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. In the year 1758, we find him mailer of the Northumberland, the flag (hip of Lord Colville, who had then the command of the fquadron flationed on the coafl of America. It was here, as I have often heard him fay, that, during a hard winter, he firft read Euclid, and applied himfelf to the fludy of mathematics and aftronomy, without any other afliftance, than what a few books, and his own induftry, afforded him. At the fame time, that he thus found means to cultivate and improve his mind, and to fupply the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in moft of the bufy and active fcenes of the war in America. At the fiege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of fervices, of the firft importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the, attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham; examined the paffage, and laid buoys for the fecurity of the large fhips in proceeding up the river. The courage and addrefs with which he acquitted himfelf in thefe fervices, gained him the warm friendfhip of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, who continued to patronize him, during the reft of their lives, with the grcateft zeal and affection. T779. feet ion. At the conclufion of the war, he was appointed, through the recommendation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Pa-Mi fer, to furvey the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coafls of Newfoundland. In this employment he continued till the year 1,67, when he was fixed on by Sir Edward Hawke, to command an expedition to the South Seas; for the purpofe of obierving the tranfit of Venus, and profecuting discoveries in that part of the globe. From this period, as his fervices arc too well known to require a recital here, fo his reputation has proportionably advanced to a height too great to be affected by my pane-gyrick. Indeed, he appears to have been moft eminently and peculiarly qualified for this fpecies of enterprize. The carlieft habits of his life, the courfe of his fervices, and the conflant application of his mind, all confpired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree of profeflional knowledge, which can fall to the lot of very few. The conftitution of his body was robufl, inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the fevered hanifhips. His flo-mach bore, without difficulty, the coarfeft and moft ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance in him was fcarcely a virtue ; fo great was the indifference with which he fub-mittcd to every kind of felf-denial. The qualities of his mind were of the fame hardy, vigorous kind with thofe of his body. His underftanding was flrong and perfpicacious. His judgment, in whatever related to the fervices he was engaged in, quick and fure. His defigns were bold and manly ; and both in the conception, and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable prefence of mind in the moment of 6 danger, danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. His '77& O * t February. temper might perhaps have been juftly blamed, as fubjeet <—-v-—' to haffinefs and paflion, had not thefe been difarmcd by a difpofition the moll benevolent and humane. Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its moftdiftinguifhing feature was,that unremitting perfeve-rance in the purfuit of his object, which was not only fuperior to the oppofition of dangers, and the prelTure of hardfhips, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, his eagernefs and activity were never in the lead abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment; even thofe intervals of recreation, which fometimes unavoidably occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that perfons, who have experienced the fatigues of fervice, will readily excufe, were fubmitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not be employed in making further proviffon for the more effectual profecution of his defigns. It is not neceffary, here, to enumerate the inflances in which thefe qualities were difplayed, during the great and important enterprizes in which he was engaged. I (hall content myfelf with flaring the refult of thofe fervices, under the two principal heads to which they may be referred, thofe of geography and navigation, placing each in a feparate and diflinct point of view. Perhaps no fcience ever received greater additions from the labours of a fingle man, than geography has done from thofe of Captain Cook. In his firft voyage to the South Seas, he difcovered the Society Iflands ; determined the in-fularity of New Zealand j difcovered the ftraits which fepa- Vol. III." H rate *J79- rate the two iflands, and arc called after his name; and February. t~—v-—t made a complete furvey of both. He afterward explored the Eaftern coafl of New Holland, hitherto unknown ; an extent of twenty-feven degrees of latitude, or upward of two thoufand miles. In his fecond expedition, he refolved the great problem of a Southern continent; having traverfed that hemifphere between the latitudes of 400 and 700, in fuch a manner, as not to leave a poffibility of its exigence, unlefs near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During this voyage, he difcovered New Caledonia, the large!! ifland in the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand ; the ifland of Georgia; and an unknown coafl, which he named Sandwich Land, the thule of the Southern hemifphere ; and having twice vifited the tropical feas, he fettled the fimations of the old, and made feveral new difcoverics. But the voyage we are now relating, is diftinguifhedp above all the reft, by the extent and importance of its dif-covcries. Bcfides feveral fmaller iflands in the Southern Pacific, he difcovered, to the North of the equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich Iflands; which, from their fituation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object of confequence, in the fyftem of European navigation, than any other difcovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had hitherto remained unknown of the Wcftern coaft of America, from the latitude of 430 to 700 North, containing an extent of three thoufand five hundred miles; afcertaincd the proximity of the two great continents of Afia and America ; paffed the ftraits between them, and fur-vcyed the coaft, on each fide, to fuch a height of Northern latitude, as to demonftrate the impracticability of a paiFage, 3 in THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 51 in that hemifphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, r ' February. either by an Eaftern or a Wcftern courfe. In fhort, if wc v.— except the fea of Amur, and the Japanefe Archipelago, which ftill remain imperfectly known to Europeans, he has completed the hydrography of the habital ] globe. As a navigator, his fervices were not perhaps lefs fplendid; certainly not lefs important and meritorious. The method which he difcovered, and fo fucccfsfully purfucd, of pre-fcrving the health of feamcn, forms a new sera in navigation, and will tranfmit his name to future ages, amongft the friends and benefactors of mankind. Thofe who are converfant in naval hiftory, need not be told, at how dear a rate the advantages, which have been fought, through the medium of long voyages at fea, have always been purchafed. That dreadful difordcr which is peculiar to this fervice, and whofe ravages have marked the tracks of difcoverers with circumftances almoft too mocking to relate, muft, without exercifing an unwarrantable tyranny over the lives of our feamcn, have proved an in-fupcrable obilacle to the profecution of fuch enter prizes. Ic was referved for Captain Cook to fhew the world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the un-ufual length of three or even four years, in unknown regions, and under every change and rigour of climate, not only without affecting the health, but even without di- 0 minifhing the probability of life, in the fmallcft degree. The method he purfued has been fully explained by himfelf, in a paper which was read before the Royal Society, in the year 1776*; and whatever improvements the experience * Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was adjudged to him, on that occafion. H 2 Of February °^ Pre*"ellt v°yaSe aas fuggefted, are mentioned in their *—i proper places. With refpect to his profeffional abilities, I fhall leave them to the judgment of thofe who are beft acquainted with the nature of the fervices in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge, that to have conducted three expeditions of fo much danger and difficulty, of fo unufual a length, and in fuch a variety of fituation, with uniform and invariable fuccefs, muft have required not only a thorough and accurate knowledge of his bufinefs, but a powerful and comprehenfive genius, fruitful in refources, and equally ready in the application of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the fervice required. Having given the moft faithful account I have been able to collect, both from my own obfervation, and the relations of others, of the death of my ever honoured friend, and alfo of his character and fervices ; I fhall now leave his memory to the gratitude and admiration of pofterity; accepting, with a melancholy fatisfaction, the honour, which the lofs of him hath procured me, of feeing my name joined with his; and of teftifying that affection and refpect for his memory, which, whilft he lived, it was no lefs my inclination, than my conftant ftudy, to fhew him. CHAP, CHAP. IV. Tranfaclions at Owhyhee, fubfequent to the Death of Captain Cook — Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines. — Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai, — Bravery of one of the Natives.—Confutation refpefting future Meafures.—Demand of the Body of Captain Cook.—Evafive and infdious ConduB of Koahy and the Chiefs.—Infolent Behaviour of the Natives.— Promotion of Officers.—Arrival of two Priefis with Part of the Body.—Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys.—Burning of the Village of Kakooa,—Unfortunate Deflruclion of the Dwellings of the Priefls.—Recovery of the Bones of Captain Cook.—Departure from Karakakooa Bay. IT has been already related, that four of the marines, pj7gy who attended Captain Cook, were killed by the iilanders on the fpot. The reft, with Mr. Phillips, their Lieutenant, threw themfelves into the water, and efcaped, under cover of a fmart fire from the boats. On this occalion, a remarkable inftance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, was fhewn by that officer. For he had fcarcely got into the boat, when, feeing one of the marines, who was a bad fwimmer, ftruggling in the water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the fea to his aftiftance, though much wounded himfelf; and i after i—.— Sunday 14, 54 A V OYAGE TO w >779* after receiving a blow on the head from a flone, which had February. —s-' nearly fent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him fafe off*. Our people continued for fome time to keep up a conftant fire from the boats (which, during the whole tranfaction, were not more than twenty yards from the land), in order to afford.their unfortunate companions, if any of them fhould ftill remain alive, an opportunity of efcaping. Thefe efforts, feconded by a few guns, that were fired at the fame time, from the Refolution, having forced the natives at laffc to retire, a fmall boat, manned by five of our young mid-fhipmcn, pulled toward the more, where they faw the bodies, without any figns of life, lying on the ground; but judging it dangerous to attempt to bring them off, with fo fmall a force, and their ammunition being nearly expended, they returned to the fhips, leaving them in pofleflion of the iflanders, together with ten Hands of arms. As foon as the general confirmation, which the news of this calamity occafioncd throughout both crews, had a little fubfidcd, their attention was called to our party at the Morai, * From the annexed plate, the reader will be enabled to form a very clear and diiUnct idea of the fituation of the feveral places mentioned in this and the three laft chapters. On the fartheft point of land, beyond the fhips, to the left, is fituated the village of Kovvrowa, where Captain Cook was killed. The pile of, flones, with a building on the top, at the other extremity of the plate, reprefents the Morai, where the obfervatories were creeled. Behind the grove of cocoa-nut trees, flood the cloiftcrs of the priefts. To the left of thefe, is part of the village of Kakooa, which was burnt down on the 17th of February; and, farther on, arnongil the rocks, at the end of the beach, is the well where we watered. The fleep high ground, above the beach, is the hill from which the natives annoyed the watcrcrs, by rolling down flones. In the fore ground, a native is fwimming on one of the boards, as defcribed in the feventh chapter. The canoes, and the general air of the people, are reprefented with the greateft truth and fidelity. where where the mad and fails were on more, with a guard of pJ only fix marines. It is impofliblc for mc to defcribe the v-emotions of my own mind, during the time thefe tranf actions had been carrying on, at the other fide of the bay. Being at the diftance only of a fhort mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could fee diftinctly an immenfe crowd collected on the fpot where Captain Cook had jufl before landed. We heard the firing of the mufquetry, and could perceive fome extraordinary buttle and agitation in the multitude. We afterward faw the natives flying, the boats retire from the fhore, arjd paffing and rcpailing, in great flillnefs, between the fhips. I mufl confefs, that my heart foon mifgave me. Where a life fo dear and valuable was concerned, it was impofliblc not to he alarmed, by appearances both new and threatening. But, befides this, I knew, that a long and uninterrupted courfe of fuccefs, in his transactions with the natives of thefe feas, had given the Captain a degree of confidence, that I was always fearful might, at lome unlucky moment, put him too much off his guard ; and I now faw all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without receiving much confolation from con-fidering the experience that had given rife to it. My firft care, on hearing the mufquets fired, was, to allure the people, who were affembled in confidcrable numbers, round the wall of our confecrated field, and feemed equally at a lofs with ourfelves how to account for what they had feen and heard, that they fhould not be molefted; and that, at all events, I was defirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them. We remained in this pofture, till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Clerke, obferv-ing> through his telefcope, that we were furrounded by the natives, and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two two four-pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately thefe guns, though well aimed, did no mifchief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party of them were fitting; and the other fhivered a rock, that flood in an exact line with them. As I had, ju(l before, given them the flrongeft affurances of their fafety, I was exceedingly mortified at this act of hoftility; and, to prevent a repetition of it, immediately difpatched a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that, at prefent, I was on the moft friendly terms with the natives; and that, if occafion fhould hereafter arife for altering my conduct toward them, I would hoift a jack, as a fignal for him to afford us all the afliftance in his power. We expected the return of the boat with the utmoft impatience ; and after remaining a quarter of an hour, under the moft torturing anxiety and fufpence, our fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to ftrike the tents as quickly as poftible, and to fend the fails, that were repairing, on board. Juft at the fame moment, our friend Kaireekeea having alfo received intelligence of the death of Captain Cook, from a native, who had arrived from the other fide of the bay, came to me, with great forrow and dejection in his countenance, to inquire, if it was true ? Our fituation was, at this time, extremely critical and important. Not only our own lives, but the event of the expedition, and the return of at leaft one of the fhips, being involved in the fame common danger. We had the maft of the Refolution, and the greateft part of our fails, on fhore, under the protection of only fix marines: their lofs would have have been irreparable ; and though the natives had not as pJg7* yet fhewn the fmalleft difpofition to molcft us, yet it v/as v— impofliblc to anfwer for the alteration, which the news of the tranfaction at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore thought it prudent to difTemble my belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to defire Kaireekeea to difcourage the report j left either the fear of our refentment, or the fuc-cefsful example of their countrymen, might lead them to feize the favourable opportunity, which at this time offered itfelf, of giving us a fecond blow. At the fame time, I ad-vifed him to bring old Kaoo, and the reft of the priefts, into a large houfe that was clofe to the Morai; partly out of regard to their fafety, in cafe it fhould have been found neceffary to proceed to extremities ; and partly to have him near us, in order to make ufe of his authority with the people, if it could be inftrumental in preferving peace. Having placed the marines on the top of the Morai, which formed a ftrong and advantageous poft, and left the command with Mr. Bligh, giving him the moft pofitive directions to act entirely on the defenfive, I went on board the Difcovery, in order to reprefent to Captain Clerke the dangerous fituation of our affairs. As foon as I quitted the fpot, the natives began to annoy our people with flones; and I had fcarcely reached the fhip, before I heard the firing of the marines. I therefore returned inftantly on fhore, where I found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and putting on their mats ; . and their numbers increafed very faft. I could alfo perceive feveral large bodies marching toward us, along the cliff vvhich feparates the village of Kakooa from the North fide of the bay, where the village of Kowrowa is fituatcd. Vol. III. I They '779' They began, at firft, to attack us with flones, from behind February. . the walls of their inclofures, and finding no rcfiftance on our part, they foon grew more daring. A few refolute fellows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, Suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the Morai, with a defign, as it feemed, of ftorming it on the fide next the fea, which was its only acceflihle part; and were not diflodged, till after they had flood a confiderable number of fhot, and fecn one of their party fall. The bravery of one of thefe affiilants well deferves to be particularly mentioned. For having returned to carry off his companion, amidft the fire of our whole party, a wound, which he received, made him quit the body and retire; but, in a few minutes, he again appeared, and being again wounded, he was obliged a fecond time to retreat. At this moment I arrived at the Morai, and faw him return the third time, bleeding and faint; and being informed of what hat! happened, I forbad the foldiers to fire, and he was fuf-fercd to carry off his friend i which he was juft able to perform, and then fell down himfelf, and expired. About this time, a flrong reinforcement from both mips having landed* the natives retreated behind their walls; which giving me accefs to our friendly priefts, I fent one of them to endeavour to bring their countrymen to fome terms, and to propofc to them, that if they would defift from throwing itones, I would not permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and we were fullered to launch the mail, and carry off the fails, and our agronomical apparatus, unmo-lefled. As foon as we had quitted the Morai, they took poffeffion of h, and fome of them threw a few ftones; but without doing us any mifchicf. It It was half an hour pari eleven o'clock, when I got on board the Difcovery, where I found no decifive plan had c been adopted for our future proceedings. rI lie reftitution of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook were the objects, which, on all hands, we agreed to infill on ; and it was my opinion, that fome vigorous (leps fhould be taken, in cafe the demand of them was not immediately complied with. Though my feelings, on the death of a beloved and honoured friend, may be fufpectcd to have had fome fharc in this opinion, yet there were certainly other reafons, and thofe of the moft ferious kind, that had confiderable weight with me. The confidence which their fuccefs in killing our Chief, and forcing us to quit the fhore, muft naturally have inipircd ; and the advantage, however trifling, which they had obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, encourage them to make fome further dangerous attempts; and the more efpecially, as they had little reafon, from what they had hitherto feen, to dread the effects of our fire-arms. Indeed, contrary to the expectations of every one, this fort of weapon had produced no figns of terror in them. On our fide, fuch was the condition of the fhips, and the ftate of difcipline amongft us, that had a vigorous attack been made on us, in the night, it would have been impoffible to anfwer for the confequences. * In thefe apprehenfions, I was fupported by the opinion of moft of the officers on board; and nothing feemed to mc fo likely to encourage the natives to make the attempt, as the appearance of our being inclined to an accommodation, which they could only attribute to weaknefs, or fear. I 2 In *7/o. In favour of more conciliatory meafures, it was juflly urged, J.^^ that the mifchief was done, and irreparable ; that the natives had a ftrong claim to our regard, on account of their former friendfhip and kindnefs; and the more efpecially, as the late melancholy accident did not appear to have arifen from any premeditated clelign : that, on the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his readinefs to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his having actually fent his two fons into the boat, muff free him from the fmalleft degree of fufpicion: that the conduct of his women, and the Erees, might eafily be accounted for, from the appre-henfions occafioned by the armed force with which Captain Cook came on fhore, and the hoflile preparations in the bay; appearances fo different from the terms of friendfhip and confidence, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the natives was evidently with a defign torefift the attempt, which they had fome reafon to imagine would be made, to carry off their king by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and attachment to their Chiefs. To thefe motives of humanity, others of a prudential nature were added; that we were in want of water, and other refrefhmcnts: that our foremaft would require fix or eight days work, before it could be ftepped: that the fpring was advancing apace; and that the fpeedy profecution of our next Northern expedition ought now to be our fole object: that therefore to engage in a vindictive contefl with the inhabitants, might not only lay us under the imputation of unneceffary cruelty, but would occafion an unavoidable delay in the equipment of the fhips. In this latter opinion Captain Clerke concurred; and though I was convinced, that an early difplay of vigorous refentment refentment would more effectually have anfwercd every object both of prudence and humanity, I was not forry, that the meafures I had recommended were rejected. For though the contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their fub-fcquent oppofition to our neceffary operations on fhore, arif-ing, I have no doubt, from a mifconftruction of our lenity, compelled us at lafl to have recourfe to violence in our own defence ; yet I am not fo fure, that the circumftances of the cafe would, in the opinion of the world, have juilified the ufe of force, on our part, in the firft inftance. Cautionary rigour is at all times invidious, and has this additional objection to it, that the feverity of a preventive courfe, when it bed fucceeds, leaves its expediency the leaft apparent. During the time we were thus engaged, in concerting fome plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourfe of natives (till kept poffcflion of the fhore ; and fome of them came off in canoes, and had the boldnefs to approach within piftol-ihot of the fhips, and to infult us by various marks of contempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could reflrain the failors from the ufe of their arms, on thefe occafions ; but as pacific meafures had been rcfolved on, the canoes were fuffered to return un-molefled. In purfuance of this plan, it was determined, that I fhould proceed toward the fhore, with the boats of both fhips, well manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if poffible, to obtain a conference with fome of the Chiefs. If this attempt Succeeded, I was to demand the dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook j to threaten them 779- them with our vengeance in cafe of a refufal; but, bv no ebruary. 0 J means, to fire unlefs attacked; and not to land on any account whatever. Thefe orders were delivered to me before the whole party, and in the moft pofitive manner. I left the fhips about four o'clock in the afternoon; and, as we approached the fhore, I perceived every indication of a hoflile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion ; the women and children retiring; the men putting on their war mats, and arming themfelves with long fpears and daggers. We alfo obferved, that, fmcc the nifining, they had thrown up flone bread-works along the beach, where Captain Cook had landed ; probably in expectation of an attack at that place; and, as loon as we were within reach, they began to throw flones at us with flings, but without doing any mifchief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain, unlefs I fird gave them fome ground for mutual confidence ; I ordered the armed boats to dop, and went on, in the fmall boat, alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general cry of joy from the natives, 1 had the fatisfacfion to find was indantly underdood. The women immediately returned from the fide of the hill, whither they had retired; the men threw off their mats; and all fat down together by the water-fide, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on fhore. Though this behaviour was very expreflive of a friendly difpolition, yet I could not help entertaining fome fufpicions of its fincerity. But when I faw Koah, with a boldnefs and aflurancc altogether unaccountable, fwimming off toward ,the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought it neceffary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore received him into the boat, though armed; a circumflance which which did not tend to IcfTen my fufpicions. I muft confefs, pJ2r3iy. 1 had long harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. L—v-f, The priefts had always told us, that he was of a malicious difpofition, and no friend of ours; and the repeated detections of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the truth of their reprefentations. Add to all this, the fhocking tranfacYion of the morning, in which he was feen acting a principal part, made me feel the urmoft horror at finding, myfelf fo near him ; and as he came up to me with feigned tears, and embraced mc, I was fo diftruftful of his intentions, that 1 could not help taking hold of the point of the fahooah, whicn he held in his hand, and turning it from me. I told him, that I had come to demand the body of Captain Cook ; and to declare war againft them, unlefs it was inftantly reftored. He affured me this fhould be done as foon as poflible ; and that he would go himfelf for that purpofe ; and, after begging of me a piece of iron, with much afFurance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped into the fea, and fwa:m athore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour, with great anxiety for his return ; during which time, the reft of the boats had approached fo near the fhore, as to c.i.er into converfation with a party of the natives, at fome diftance from us; by whom they were plainly given to undeiftand, that the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country; but of this circumilance I was not informed, till our retur.n to the fhips. I began now to exprcfs fome impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the Chiefs preffed me exceedingly to come on fhore j alfuring me, that if I would go myfelf to Terreeoboo, 2 the the body would certainly be rcftorcd to mc. When they found they could not prevail on me to land, they attempted, under a pretence of wifhing to converfe with more cafe, to decoy our boat among feme rocks, where they would have had it in their power to cut us off from the reft. It was no difficult matter to fee through thefe artifices; and I was, therefore, ftrongly inclined to break off all further communication with them, when a Chief came to us, who was the particular friend of Captain Clerke, and of the officers of the Difcovery, on board which fhip he had failed, when we la ft left the bay, intending to take his paffage to Moivce. He told us, he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint us, that the body was carried up the country ; but that it fhould be brought to us the next morning. There appeared a great deal of fincerity in his manner; and being afked, if he told a falsehood, he hooked his two fore-fingers together, which is underftood amongft thefe iflanders as the fign of truth ; in the ufe of which they are very fcrupulous. As I was now at a lofs in what manner to proceed, I fent Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Captain Clerke with all that had pafTed ; that my opinion was, they meant not to keep their word with us, and were fo far from being forry at what had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full of fpirits and confidence on account of their late fuccefs, and fought only to gain time, till they could contrive fome Scheme for getting us into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for me to return on board; having firft given the natives to underftand, that, if the body was not brought the next morning, the town fhould be deftroyed. When they faw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us by the moft infulting and contemptuous gef-tures. Some of our people faid, they could diftinguifh feve-7 ral ral oF the natives parading about in the clothes of our un- 'J- fortunate comrades; and, among them, a Chief brandifhing '- Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the fcabbard. Indeed, there can be no doubt, but that our behaviour had given them a mean opinion of our courage ; for they could have but little notion of the motives of humanity that directed it. In confequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, of what I conceived to be the pre,fent temper and difpofuion of the iilandcrs, the mod effectual meafures were taken to guard againfl any attack they might make in the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; additional fentinels were poflcd on both fhips; and guard-boats were flationed to row round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the cables. During the night wc obferved a prodigious number of lights on the hills, which'made fome of us imagine, they were removing their effects back into the country, in confequence of our threats. But I rather believe them to have been the facrificcs that were performing on account of the war, in which they imagined themfelves about to be engaged; and moil probably the bodies of our flain countrymen were, at that time, burning. We afterward faw fires of the fame kind, as we palled the ifland of Morotoi; and which, we were told by fome natives then on board, were made on account of the war they had declared againfl a neighbouring ifland. And this agrees with what we learned amongfl the Friendly and Society Iflcs, that, previous to any expedition againfl an enemy, the Chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame the courage of the people by feafls and rejoicings in the night. We remained the whole night undifturbed, except by the bowlings and lamentations which were heard on fhore: Vol, III. K and *779- and early the next morning, Koah came along-fide the Re-February. , Solution, with a prefent of cloth, and a fmall pig, which he Monday 15, defired leave to prefent to me. I have mentioned before, that I was fuppofed, by the natives, to be the fon of Captain Cook; and as he, in his life-time, had always fullered them to believe it, I was probably conlidered as the Chief, after his death. As foon as I came on deck, I questioned him about the body ; and, on his returning me nothing but evafive anfwers, I refufed to accept his prefents; and was going to difmifs him, with fome expreffions of anger and refentment, had not Captain Clerke, judging it heft, at all events, to keep up the appearance of friendfhip, thought it more proper, that he fhould be treated with the ufual refpect. This treacherous fellow came frequently to us, during, the courfe of the forenoon, with fome trifling prefent or other; and as I always obferved him eyeing every part of the fhip with great attention, I took care he fhould fee we were well prepared for our defence. He was exceedingly urgent, both with Captain Clerke and myfelf, to go on fhore, laying all the blame of the detention of the bodies on the other Chiefs; and alluring us, that every thing might be fettled to our Satisfaction, by a per-fonal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his conduct was too fufpicious to make it prudent to comply with this re que ft; and indeed a fact came afterward to our knowledge, which proved the entire falfehood of his pretenfions. For we were told, that, immediately after the action in which Captain Cook was killed, the old king had retired to a cave in the fleep part of the mountain, that hangs over the bay, which was acceffible only by the help of ropes, 1 and and where he remained for many days, having his victuals „ *JT* * * 0 February. let down to him by cords. «-1— When Koah returned from the fhips, we could perceive that his countrymen, who had been collected, by break of day, in vafl crowds on the fhore, thronged about him with great cagernefs; as if to learn the intelligence he had acquired, and what was to be done in confequence of it. It is very probable, that they expected we fhould attempt to put our threats in execution ; and they feemed fully refolved to fland their ground. During the whole morning, wc heard conchs blowing in different parts of the coafl; large parties were feen marching over the hills ; and, in fhort, appearances were fo alarming, that we carried out a flream anchor, to enable us to haul the fhip abreafl of the town, in cafe of an attack; and flationed boats off the North point of the bay, to prevent a furprife from that quarter. The breach of their engagement to reflore the bodies of the flain, and the warlike poflure, in which they, at this time, appeared, occafioned frefh debates amongfl us concerning the meafures next to be purfued. It was, at laft, determined, that nothing fhould be fuffered to interfere with the repair of the mall, and the preparations for our departure; but that we fhould, neverthelefs, continue our negociations for the recovery of the bodies. The greateft part of the day was taken up in getting the fore-maft into a proper fituation on deck, for the carpenters to work upon it; and in making the neceffary alterations in the commiffions of the officers. The command of the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed on board the Refolution, appointed Lieutenant Gore to be Captain of the Difcovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a mid- K 2 fhipman, '779- fhipnian, who had been with Captain Cook in his two lad February. . . . i ~,—/ voyages, to the vacant Lieutenancy. During the whole day, we met with no interruption from the natives; and, at night, the launch was again moored with a top-chain; and guard-boats flationed round both fhips as before. About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling toward the fhip; and as foon as it was feen, both the fentinels on deck fired into it. There were two perfons in the canoe, and they immediately roared out " Tmnee," (which was the way in which they pronounced my name), and faid they were friends, and had fome thing for me belonging to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themfelves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them was the perfon, whom I have before mentioned under the name of the Taboo man, who con-flantly attended Captain Cook with the circumflances of ceremony I have already defcribed; and who, though a man of rank in the ifland, could fcarcely be hindered from performing for him the loweil offices of a menial fervanr. After lamenting, with abundance of tears, the lofs of the Orono, he told us, that he had brought us a part of his body. He then prefented to us a fmall bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm; and it is im> poflible to defcribe the horror which feized us, on finding in it, a piece of human flefh, about nine or ten pounds weight. This, he faid, was all that remained of the body; that the reft was cut to pieces, and burnt; but that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the poffeflion of Terreeoboo, and the other J&ecs -that what we faw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of ^ the he priefts, to be made ufe of in fome religious ceremony j jJj^JJ)-, and that he had fent it as a proof of his innocence and at- *-—' tachment to us. This afforded an opportunity of informing ourfelvcs, whether they were cannibals; and we did not neglect it. We firft tried, by many indirect queftions, put to each of them apart, to learn in what manner the reft of the bodies had been difpofed of; and finding them very conftant in one flory, that, after the flefh had been cut off, it was all burnt; we at laft put the direct qucftion, Whether they had not eat fome of it ? They immediately fhewed as much horror at the idea, as any European would have done; and afked, very naturally, if that was the cuftom amongft us? They afterward afked us, with great carneftnefs and apparent apprehenfion, u When the Orono would come again ? and what he would do to them on his return?" The fame inquiry was frequently made afterward by others; and this idea agrees with the general tenour of their conduct toward him, which fire wed, that they confidered him as a being of a fuperior nature. We prefledour two friendly vifitcrs to remain on board till morning ; but in vain. They told us, that, if this tranfaction fhould come to the knowledge of the king, or Chiefs, it might be attended with the moft fatal confequence's to their whole fociety ; in order to prevent Which, they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark and that the lame precaution would be neceffary in returning on fhore. They informed us farther, that the Chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their countrymen ; and, particularly, cautioned us againft trufting Koah, who, they faid, was our mortal and implacable enemy; and defired nothing more ardently, than an February an °PPortumty °f fighting us; to which the blowing of w—*—t the conchs, we had heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge. We learned from thefe men, that feventeen of their countrymen were killed in the firft action at Kowrowa, of whom five were Chiefs; and that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they faid, were killed at the obfervatory; three of whom were alfo of the firft rank. About eleven o'clock, our two friends left us, and took the precaution to defire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had paffed the Difcovery, left they fhould again be fired upon, which might alarm tljeir countrymen on fhore, and expofe them to the danger of being difcovered. This requeft was complied with; and we had the fatisfaction to find, that they got fafe and undifcovered to land. During the remainder of this night, we heard the fame loud howling and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Tuefday 16. Early in the morning, we received another vifit from Koah. I muft confefs, I was a little piqued to find, that, notwith-ftanding the moft evident marks of treachery in his conduct, and the pofitive teftimony of our friends the priefts, he mould flill be permitted to carry on the fame farce, and to make us at lead appear to be the dupes of his hypocrify. Indeed our fituation was become extremely awkward and unpromifing ; none of the purpofes for which this pacific courfe of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been in the lead forwarded by it. No Satisfactory anfwer whatever had been given to our demands ; we did not feem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the iftanders; iflanders ; they mil kept in force on the fhore, as if determined to refill any attempts we might make to land ; and yet the attempt was become abfolutely neceffary, as the completing our fupply of water would not admit of any longer delay. However it mufl be obferved, in jufticc to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great numbers of the natives, and from the refolution with which they feemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made without fome danger j and that the lofs of a very few men might have been feverely felt by us, during the remaining courfe of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of our threats, though, on the one hand, it leffened their opinion of our prowefs, had the effect of caufing them todifperfe, on the other. For, this day, about noon, finding us perfift in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and ufing every mode of defiance, marched off, over the hills, and never appeared afterward. Thofe, however, who remained, were not the lefs daring and infolent. One man had the audacity to come within mufquet-fhot, a-head of the fhip; and, after flinging feveral flones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilft his countrymen on fhore were cxult-ing» and encouraging his boldnefs. Our people were all in a flame at this infult, and coming in a body on the quarterdeck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with thefe repeated provocations ; and rcquefted me to obtain permiffion for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themfelves of the firft fair occafion of revenging the death °f their Commander. On my acquainting him with what was palling, he gave orders for fome great guns to be fired »t the natives on fhore; and promifed the crew, that if they fhoulrl 1779. fliould meet with any moleftation at the watering-place, the February. J or* «-next day, they fhould then be left at liberty to chaflife them. It is fomewhat remarkable, that, before we could bring our guns to bear, the iflanders had fufpected our intentions, from the flir they faw in the fhip, and had retired behind their houfes and walls. We were therefore obliged to fire, in fome meafure, at random; notwithftanding which, our fhot produced all the effects that could have been dented. For, foon after, we faw Koah paddling toward us, with ex-* treme hafle, and, on his arrival, wc learned, that fome people had been killed, and amongft the reft, Maiha-maiha, a principal Chief, and a near relation of the king*. Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys fwam off from the Morai toward the fhips, having each a long fpear in his hand ; and after they had approached pretty near, they began to chant a fong, in a very folemn manner; the fubject of which, from their often mentioning the word Orono, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous difafter. Having fung in a plaintive ftrain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the Difcovery, and delivered their fpears ; and, after making a fhort flay, returned on fhore. Who fent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. At night, the ufual precautions were taken for the fecu-rity of the fhips; and as foon as it was dark, our two * 1 he word matee, is commonly ufed, in the language of thefe ifland*, to exprefs cither killing or wounding; and we were afterward told, that this Chief had only received a flight blow on the face from a flone, which had been flruck by one of the balls. friends, friends, who had vifited us the night before, came off again. p^JJJ* They allured us, that though the effects of our great guns, *-' this afternoon, had terrified the Chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid afide their hoflile intentions, and advifed US to be on our guard. The next morning, the boats of both fhips were fent Wednef. 17. afhore for water; and the Difcovery was warped clofe to the beach, in order to cover that fervice. We foon found, that the intelligence which the priefls had fent us, was not without foundation; and that the natives were refolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much rifle. Throughout all this group of iflands, the villages, for the moft part, are fituatcd near the fea ; and the adjacent ground is inclofed with flone walls, about three feet high. Thefe, we at firft imagined, were intended for the divifion of property ; but we now difcovered, that they ferved, and probably were principally defigned, for a defence againfl in-vafion. They confift of loofe flones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in fluffing them, with great quicknefs, to fuch fituations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the fides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have alfo little holes, or caves, of confiderablc depth, the entrance of which is fecured by a fence of the fame kind. From behind both thefe defences the natives kept perpetually harafling our waterers with flones; nor could the fniall force we had on fhore, with the advantage of mufquets, compel them to retreat. In this expofed fituation, our people were fo taken up in attending to their own fafety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was there- Vol. III. L fore fore impoffible to perform this Service, till their affailants were driven to a greater diflance, the Difcovery was ordered to difiodge them, with her great guns ; which being effected ' by a few difcharges, the men landed without moleflatiom However, the natives foon after made their appearance again, in their ufual mode of attack; and it was now found abfo-lutely neccilary to burn down fome ftraggling houfes, near the wall, behind which they had taken fhelter. In executing thefe orders, I am forry to add, that our people were hurried into acts of unneceffary cruelty and devaflation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their rcfentment of the repeated infults, and contemptuous behaviour, of the iflanders, and to the natural defire of revenging the lofs of their Commander. But, at the fame time, their conduct: ferved flrongly to convince me, that the utmofl precaution is neceffary in trufling, though but for a moment, the discretionary ufe of arms, in the hands of private feamen, or Soldiers, on fuch occafxons. The rigour of difcipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough to conceive, that whatever they have the power, they have alfo the right to do. Actual difobedience being almoft the only crime for which they are accuitomed to expect punifhment, they learn to confider it as the only meafure of right and wrong ; and hence are apt to conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may do with juflice and honour. So that the feelings of humanity, which ate infeparable from us all, and that generofity toward an unrefifling enemy, which, at other times, is the diftinguifhing mark of brave men, become but weak reflraints to the cxercife of violence, when oppofed to the defire they naturally have of ihewing their own independence and power. I have I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to ' burn only a few ftraggling huts, which afforded fhelter to u the natives. We were therefore a good deal fur prized to fee the whole village on fire; and before a boat, that was fent to flop the progrefs of the mifchief, could reach the fhore, the houfes of our old and conflant friends, the priefls, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illnefs, that confined me on board this day. The priefts had always been under my protection; and, unluckily, the officers who were then on duty, having been fcldom on fhore at the Morai, were not much acquainted with the circumftances of the place. Had I been prefent myfelf, I might probably have been the means of faving their little fociety from deftruction. Several of the natives were fhot, in making their efcape from the flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor iflander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was fhot at by one of the marines. The ball ftruck his calibafh, which he immediately threw from him and fled. He was purfued into one of the caves I have before defcribed, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fiercenefs till at laft, after having kept two of our people at bay for a confiderable time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this accident, that firft brought us acquainted with the ufe of thefe caverns. At this time, an elderly man was taken prifoner, bound, and fent on board in the fame boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never faw horror fo ftrongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor fo violent a tranfition to L 2 extravagant extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told he might go away in fafety. He fhewed us he did not want gratitude, as he frequently afterward returned with prefents of provifions ; and alfo did us other fervices. Soon after the village was deftroyed, we faw, coming down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, plantains, &c4 in their hands. I knew not how it happened, that this peaceful embafly, as foon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not flop them. They continued their proceffion, and the officer on duty came up, in time, to prevent a fecond dif-chargc. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our rnuch-eftccmcd friend Kaireekeea, who had fled on our firft fetting fire to the village, and had now returned, and defired to be fent on board the Refolution. When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him underftand the neceflity we were under of fetting fire to the village, by which his houfe, and thofe of his brethren, were unintentionally confumed. He expoftulated a little with us on our want of frienduhip, and on our ingratitude. And, indeed, it was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us, that, relying on the promifes I had made them, and on the affuranccs they had afterward received from the men, who had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their effects back into the country, with the reft of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a houfe clofe to the Morat, where they had the mortification to fee it all fet on fire by ourfelves. 5 On On coming on board, he had feen the heads of his coun- peJJJJi trymcn lying on the deck, at which be was exceedingly Sr mocked, and defired, with great earneflnefs, that they might be thrown over-board. This requefl Captain Clerke inftant-ly ordered to be complied with. In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no farther interruption. We pafled a gloomy night*, the cries and lamentations we heard on fhore being far more dreadful than ever, Our only confolation was, the hope that wc fhould have no occafion, in future, for a repetition of fuch feverities. It is very extraordinary, that, amidfl all thefe diflurbances, the women of the ifland, who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor difcovered the fmallcft apprehenfions either for themfelves or their friends afhore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that fome of them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, feemed to admire the fight, and frequently cried out, that it was maitai* or very fine. The next morning, Koah came off as ufual to the fhips. Thurfday-8. As there cxiflcd no longer any necemty for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the fide of the fhip, finging his fong, and offering me a hog, and fome plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones, left his life mould pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promifc. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on fhore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the watercrs with flones. The body of' the young man, who had been killed the day before, was found this T779- this morning, lyinn; at the entrance of the cave ; and fome February. i i u ■ a £ i____,___t or our people went, and threw a mat over it. Soon after which they faw fome men carrying him off on their fhoul-ders, and could hear them ringing, as they marched, a mournful fong. The natives, being at lafl convinced that it was not the want of ability to punifh them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, defiffed from giving us any farther moleffation; and, in the evening, a Chief called Eappo, who had feldoni vifited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very firft confequence, came with prefents from Terreeoboo to fue for peace. Thefe prefents were received, and he was difmiffed with the fame anfwer which had before been given, that, until the remains of Captain Cook fhould be reftored, no peace would be granted. We learned from this perfon, that the flefh of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt j that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongft the inferior Chiefs ; and that thofe of Captain Cook had been difpofed of in the following manner : the head, to a great Chief, called Kahoo-opeon ; the hair to Maia-maia; and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables; and we alfo received two large prefents of the fame articles from Kaireekeea. Hiiday ig. The 19th was chiefly taken up in fending and receiving the meilagcs which paffed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very prcfling, that one of our officers fhould go on fhore ; and,-in the mean time, offered tore-main as an hoflage on board. This requefl, however, it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a promife of bringing the bones the next day. At 2 the the beach, the waterers did not meet with the lead oppofi- F^r7ul'Tyt tion from the natives; who, notwithftanding our cautious —x—' behaviour, came amongft us again, without the fmalleft appearance of diffidence or apprehenfion. Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the fatisfaction Saturdayzo, of getting the fore-ma ft ftepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty, and fome danger; our ropes being fo exceedingly rotten, that the purchafe gave way feveral times. Between ten and eleven o'clock, we faw a great number of people defcending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of proceftion, each man carrying a fugar-cane or two on his fhoulders, and bread-fruit, taro, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-fide, fat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while thofe who had followed them, advanced, one by one; and, having depofked the prefents they had brought, retired in the fame order. Soon after, Eappo came in fight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing fomething with great folemnity in his hands; and having placed himfelf on a pock, he made figns for a boat to be fent him. Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himfelf in the pinnace to receive them ; and or-•lercd me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the Captain the bones wrapped up in a large quantity ot fine new cloth, and covered with a fpotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterward attended us to the Reiolution; but could not be prevailed upon to go on board j So A V O Y AC E T O ,177;« board; probably not choofing, from a fenfe of decency, to February. i-a-' be prefent at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable fear on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; the fkull, but with the fcalp Separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the fcalp, with the hair upon it cut fhort, and the cars adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the ffein of the fore-arms hanging to them; the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flefh left upon them, and were cut in feveral places, and crammed with fait, apparently with an intention of preferving them. The fcalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the fkull was free from any fracture. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had been feized by different Chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was ufing every means to recover them. Sunday si. The next morning, Eappo, and the king's fon> came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook j the barrels of his gun, his fliocs, and fome other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himfelf were moft heartily dcfirous of peace; that they had given us the moft convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving it fooner by the other Chiefs, many of whom were flill our enemies. He lamented, with the grcateft forrow, the death of fix Chiefs we had killed, fome of whom, he faid, were amongft our belt friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Parcea's Parcea's people ; very probably in revenge for the blow that p1^79*,. had been given him j and that it had been broken up the <—-v— next day. The arms of the marines, which we had alfo demanded, he affured us, had been carried off by the common people, and were irrecoverable ; the bones of the Chief alone having been prefcrved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the Erces. Nothing now remained, but to perform the laft offices to our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dif-miffed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and, in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the fer-vice read over them, they were committed to the deep with the ufual military honours. What our feelings were on this occafion, I leave the world to conceive ; thofe who wTere prefent know, that it is not in my power to exprefs them. During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was feen Mondays paddling in the bay ; the taboo, which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our requeft, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We affured him, that we were now entirely fatisfied; and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of what had paffed was buried with him. We afterward defired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known, that the people might bring their provifions as ufual. The fhips were foon furrounded with canoes, and many of the Chiefs came on board, expreffing great forrow at what had happened, and their fatisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not vifit us, fent prefents of large hogs, and other provifions. Amongtl the reft came the old treacherous Koah, but was refufed admittance. Vol. III. M As fe"779' As we had now every thing ready for fea, Captain Clerke u, ,-"1 L> imagining, that, if the news of our proceedings fhould reach the Iflands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About eight in the evening we difmiffed all the natives ; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately weighed, and flood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the fhore in great numbers; and, as we paffed along, received our laft farewels with every mark of affection and good will. CHAP. CHAP. V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of an Harbour on the South Eafl Side of Mowee,—Driven to Leeward by the Eaflerly Winds and Current.—Pafs the If and of Tahoorowa.—Defcription of the South Wefl Side of Mowee.—Run along the Coafls of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.—Defcription of the North Eafi Coafl of Woahoo.—Unfuccefsful Attempt to water.—Pajfage to Atooi.—Anchor in Wymoa Bay.—Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Shore.—Civil Dijfentions in the Iflands.—Vifit from the contending Chiefs,—Anchor off Oneeheow.—Final Departure from the Sandwich Iflands. WE got clear of the land about ten ; and, hoifting in ,779. the boats, flood to the Northward, with an inten- Jf^f^'^ tion of fearching for an harbour on the South Eafi fide of Monday« Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next morning we found ourfelvcs driven to Tuefday 2; leeward by a heavy fwell from the North Eafi; and a frefh gale, fpringing up from the fame quarter, carried us flill farther to the Weflward. At midnight we tacked, and flood to the South for four hours, in order to keep clear of the land ; and, at day-break, we found ourfelvcs Handing to- Wednef, 2 ward a fmall barren ifland, called Tahoorowa, which lies feven or eight miles to the South Wefl of Mowee. M 2 All ,779- All prof peel: of examining more nearly the South Earl cbruary. * 1 " J —parts of Mowee being now deftroyed, we bore away, and ran along the South Eail fide of Tahoorowa. As we were fleering clofe round its Weflern extremity, with an intention of fetching the Well fide of Mowee, we fuddenly flioaled our water, and obferved the fea breaking on fome detached rocks, almoft right ahead. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we again fleered to the Northward j and, after palling over a bank, with nineteen fathoms water, flood for a paifage between Mowee and an ifland called Ranai. At noon, the latitude was, by ob-fcrvation, 20° 42' North, and the longitude 2030 22' Eafl ; the Southern extremity of Mowee bearing Eafl South Eaft, quarter Eaft; the Southern extremity of Ranai Weft North Weft, quarter Wefl; Morotoi, North Weft and by North j and the Weflern extremity of Tahoorowa, South, by Eaft, feven miles diftant. Our longitude was accurately deduced from obfervations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by a great many diflances of the moon from the fun and ftars, which were alfo obferved the fame day. In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the Wefl, we flood on to the North North Weil; but, at fun-fct, obferving a flioal, which appeared to flretch to a confiderable diflance from the Weft point of Mowee, toward the middle of the paffage, and the weather being un-lettlcd, we tacked, and flood toward the South. The South Weft fide of this ifland, which we now had palled without being able to get near the more, forms the fame diftant view with the North Eaft, as feen on our return from the North, in November 1778; the mountainous parts, a which. which are connected by a low, flat ifthmus, appearing at firft pJgjJjjL like two feparate iflands. This deception continued on the v—*— South Weft fide, till we approached within eight or. ten leagues of the coaft, which, bending inward, to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The Wefternmoft point, off which the fhoal we have juft mentioned runs, is made remarkable by a fmall hillock, to the Southward of which there is a line fandy bay, with feveral huts on the fhore, and a number of cocoa-nut trees growing about them. During the courfe of the day, we were vifired by feveral of the natives, who came off to fell provifions ; and we foon found, that they had heard of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the particulars, from a woman who had concealed herfelf on board the Refolution, in order to take her paffage to Atooi; inquiring eagerly after Pareea, and fome other Chiefs, and appearing much fhocked at the death of Kaneena, and his brother. We had, however, the fatisfaction to find, that, in whatever light the woman might have represented this bu-finefs, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and fubmifllve. The weather continued variable, during the night; but in the morning of the 25th, having the wind at Eaft, we ran Tharfaay***-along the South fide of Ranai, till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we fleered, with'a light Eafterly breeze, for the Weft part of Morotoi. In the courfe of the day, the current, which, from the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had fet from the North Eaft, changed its direction to the South Eaft. During the night, the wind was again variable ; but early Friday?ift next morning, it fettled at Eaft, and blew fo frefh, as to oblige "779* oblige us to double-reef the topfaiis. At feven, on hauling February. i. round the Weft point of Morotoi, we opened a fmall bay, at the diftance of about two leagues, with a fine fandy beach; but feeing no appearance of frefh water, we flood on to the North, in order to get to the windward of Woahoo, an ifland which wc had feen at our firft vifit, in January 1778. At two in the afternoon, we faw the land, bearing Weft by North, eight leagues diftant; and having tacked as foon as it was dark, we again bore away at day-light on the Saturday^. 27th ; and at half paft ten, were within a league of the fhore, near the middle of the North Eaft fide of the ifland. The coaft, to the Northward, is formed of detached hills, riling perpendicularly from the fea, with ragged and broken fummits; the fides covered with wood, and the vallies between them of a fertile and well cultivated appearance. To the Southward, we faw an extcnfivc bay, bounded by a low point of land to the South Eaft, which was covered with cocoa-nut trees ; and off it flood a high infulated rock, about a mile from the fhore. The hazinefs of the weather prevented our feeing diftinctly the land to the Southward of the point; we could only perceive that it was high and broken. As the wind continued to blow very frefli, we thought it dangerous to entangle ourfelvcs with alee-fhore; and therefore did not attempt to examine the bay, but hauled up, and fleered to the Northward, in the direction of the coaft. At noon, we were abreaft of the North point of the ifland, about two leagues from the land, which is low and flat, and has a reef ilretching off it to the diftance of near a mile and a half. The latitude, by obfervation, 210 50' North, longitude 2020 15' Eaft; the extreme parts of the ifland in fight, fight, bearing South South Eaft, quarter Eaft, and South Fij779v Weft by South, three-quarters Weft. &—-' Between the North point and a diftant head-land, which we faw to the South Weft, the land bends inward confider-ably, and appeared likely to afford a good road. We therefore dheeled our courfe along the fhore, at the d.fiance of about a mile, carrying regular foundings from twenty to thirteen fathoms. At a quarter paft two, the fight of a fine river, running through a deep valley, induced us to come to an anchor in thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bottom ; the extreme points of the bay bearing South Weft by Weft half Weft, and North Eaft by Eafl three-quarters Eaft; and the mouth of the river South Eaft half Eaft, one mile diftant. In the afternoon, I attended the two Captains on fhore, where we found but few of the natives, and thofe moftly women; the men, they told us, were gone to Morotoi to fight Tahyterree ; but that their Chief Perreeoranee, who had flayed behind, would certainly vifit us, as foon as he heard of our arrival. We were much difappointed to find the water had a brackifh tafte, for two hundred yards up the river, owing to the marfhy ground through which it empties itfelf into the fea. Beyond this, it was perfectly frefh, and formed a fine running ftrcam, along the fide of which I walked, till I came to the conflux of two fmall rivulets, that branched oft to the right and left of a remarkably fteep and romantic j mountain. The banks of this river, and indeed the whole vve faw of the North Weft part of Woahoo, are well cultivated, and full of villages; and the face of the country is uncommonly beautiful and picturefque. 3 As 1779* As the watering at this place would have been attended February. • 1 n 1 y with great labour, I was fent to examine the coalt to leeward ; but not being able to land, on account of a reef of coral, which flretchcd along the fhore to the diftance of half a mile, Captain Gierke determined, without farther lofs of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning, we weighed, and flood to the Northward, till day-light on the Sunday 28. 28th, when wc bore away for that ifland, which we were in fight of by noon; and about funfet, were off its Eaftern extremity, which fliews itfelf in a fine, green, flat point. It being too late to run for the road, on the South Weft fide of the ifland, where we had been the laft year, we March paffed the night in plying on and off, and at nine the next Monday 1. morning, came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored with the heft bower in thirty-eight fathoms, the bluff-head, on the Weft fide of the village, bearing North Eaft by North three-quarters Eaft, two miles diftant; the extremes of the ifland, North Weft by Weft three-quarters , Weft, and South Eaft by Eaft half Eaft ; the ifland Oneheow Weft by South half Weft. In running down to the road, from the South Eaft point of the ifland, we faw the appearance of fhoal water, in feveral places, at a confiderable diftance from the land ; and when we were about two miles to the Eaftward of the anchoring-place, and two or three miles from the fhore, we got into four and half fathoms water, although our foundings had ufually been feven and eight fathoms. We had no fooner anchored in our old ftation, than feveral canoes came along-fide of us; but we could obferve, that they did not welcome us with the fame cordiality in their manner, and Satisfaction in their countenances, as when we were were here before. As foon as they got on board, one of the ^9-men began to tell us, that we had left a diforder amongft ^——*—' their women, of which feveral perfons of both fexes had died. He was himfelf afflicted with the venereal difcafe, and gave a very full and minute account of the various fymptoms with which it had been attended. As there was not the flighteft appearance of that diforder amongft them on our firft arrival, I am afraid it is not to be denied, that ■ we were the authors of this irreparable mifchief. Our principal object here was to water the fhips with the utmoft expedition; and I was fent on fhore early in the afternoon, with the pinnace and launch laden with cafks. The gunner of the Refolution accompanied me to trade for provifions ; and we had a guard of five marines. We found a confiderable number of people collected upon the beach, who received us at firft with great kindnefs; but as foon as we had got the cafks on fhore, began to be exceedingly troublefome. Former experience having taught me how difficult it was to reprefs this difpofttion, without having recourfe to the authority of their Chiefs, I was very forry to find, that they were all at another part of the ifland. Indeed we foon felt the want of their affiftance; for it was with great difficulty I was able to form a circle, according to our ufual practice, for the convenience and fecurity of the trading party ; and had no fooner done it, and polled guards to keep off the crowd, than I faw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the foldicrs mufquets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them, the native let go his hold and retired; but returned in a moment, with a fpear in one hand, and dagger in the other; and his countrymen had much ado to reftrain him from trying his prowefs with the foldier. This Vol. III. N tray * fray was occafioned by the latter's having given the man a llight prick with his bayonet, in order to make him keep without the line. I now perceived, that our fituation required great circum-fpection and management; and accordingly gave the ftricteft orders, that no one mould fire, nor have recourfe to any other act of violence, without pofitive commands. As foon as I had given thefe directions, I was called to the afliftance of the watering party, where I found the natives equally inclined to mifchief. They had demanded from our people a large hatchet for every calk of water; and this not being complied with, they would not fuffer the failors to roll them down to the boats. I had no fooner joined them, than one of the natives advanced up to me, with great infolcnce, and made the fame claim. I told him, that, as a friend, I was very willing to prefent him with a hatchet, but that I fhould certainly carry off the water, without paying any thing for it; and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in their bufinefs, and called three marines from the traders to protect them. Though this fliew of fpirit fuccecded fo far as to make the natives defifl from any open attempt to interrupt us, they It ill continued to behave in the moft tearing and provoking manner. Whilft fome of them, under pretence of a {lifting the men in rolling down the cafks, turned them out of their courfe, and gave them a wrong direction; others were Healing the hats from off the failors heads, pulling them backward by their clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd, all this time, fhouting and laughing, with a ftrange mixture of childifhnefs and malice. They afterward found found means to Ileal the cooper's bucket, and took away jjggi. his bag by force ; but the objects they were moil eager to <---' poffefs themfelves of, were the mufquets of the marines, who were, every inflant, complaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands. Though they continued, for the mofl part, to pay great deference and refpect to me, yet they did not fuller me to efcape without contributing my mare to their flock of plunder. One of them came up to me with a familiar air, and with great management diverted my attention, whilft another, wrenching the hanger, which I held carclefly in my hand, from mc, ran off with it like lightning. It was in vain to think of repelling this infolcncc by force; guarding therefore againfl its effects, in the beft manner we were able, we had nothing to do but to fubmit patiently to it. My apprehenfions were, however, a little alarmed, by the information I foon after received from the ferjeant of marines, who told mc, that, turning fuddenly round, he faw a man behind me holding a dagger in the pofition of linking. In this he might pofTibly be miftaken ; yet our fituation was certainly alarming and critical, and the fmalleft error on our fide might have been fatal to us. As our people were Separated into three fmall parties, one at the lake, filling cafks ; another rolling them down to the fhore; and the third, at fome diftance, purchafmg provifions ; it had once occurred to mc, that it might be proper to collect them all together, and to execute and protect one duty at a time. But on fecond thoughts, I judged it more advifcablc to let them continue as they were. In cafe of a real attack, our whole force, however advantageoufty difpofed, could have made but a poor refinance. On the other hand, I thought it of fome confequence to fhew the natives, that we were N z under under no fears; and, what was ftill more material, the crowd was, by this means, kept divided, and a considerable part of them fully employed in bartering provifions. It is probable, that their dread of the effects of our arms, was the principal caufe of their backwardnefs in attacking us ; and indeed the confidence we appeared to place in this advantage, by oppofmg only five marines to their whole force, muff have raifed in them a very high idea of our fu-periority. It was our bufinefs to keep up this opinion as much as poffible; and in juflice to the whole party, I mull obferve, that no men could poflibly behave better, for the purpofe of flrengthening thefe impreflions. Whatever could be taken in jeff, they bore with the utmofl temper and pa-, tience; and whenever any ferious attempt was made to interrupt them, they oppofed it with bold looks and menaces. By this management, we fucceeded fo far, as to get all the cafks down to the water fide, without any material accident. While we were getting them into the launch, the natives., perceiving the opportunity of plundering would foon be over, became every moment more daring and infolent. On this occafion, I was indebted to the ferjeant of marines for fuggefling to mc, the advantage that would arife from fending off his party firft into the boats ; by which means, the mufquets of the foldiers, which, as I have already mentioned, were the objects the iflanders had principally in view, would be removed out of their reach; and in cafe of an attack, the marines themfelves might be employed more effectually in our defence, than if they were on fhore, Wc had now got every thing into the boats, and only Mr. Anderfon the gunner, a feaman of the boat's crew, and myfelf, myfelf, remained on fhore. As the pinnace lay beyond the ^arch. furf, through which we were obliged to fwim, I told them c— to make the beft of their way to it, and that I fhould follow them. With this order I was furpri?,ed to find them both refufe to comply ; and the confequence was a contctl amongft us, who fhould be the laft on fhore. It feems, that fome hafty wo'-ds I had juft before ufed to the failor, which he thought reflected on his courage, was the caufe of this odd fancy in him ; and the old gunner, finding a point of honour ftarted, thoughr he could not well avoid taking a part in it. In this ridiculous fituation we might have remained fome time, had not our difpute been foon fettled by the flones that began to fly about us, and by the cries of the people from the boats, to make hafle, as the natives were following us into the water with clubs and fpears. I reached the fide of the pinnace firft, and finding Mr. Anderfon was at fome diftance behind, and not yet entirely out of danger, I called out to the marines, to fire one mufquet. In the hurry of executing my orders, they fired two; and when I got into the boat, 1 faw the natives running away, and one man, with a woman fitting by him, left behind on the beach. The man made feveral attempts to rife, without being able and it was with much regret, I perceived him to be wounded in the groin. The natives foon after returned, and furrounded the wounded man, brandiihing their fpears and daggers at us, with an air of threatening and defiance j but before we reached the ihips, we faw fome perfons, whom we fuppofed to be the Chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the fhore. During our abfence, Captain Gierke had been under the greater! anxiety for our fafcty. And thefe apprehenfions were 1779, were considerably incrcafed, from his having entirely mif- Mirch. J . v~^# taken the drift of the convcrfa-tion he had held with fome natives who had been on board. The frequent mention of the name of Captain Cook, with other ftrong and circum-Aantial defcriptions of death and deflrucfion, made him conclude, that the knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had reached them, and that thefe were what they alluded to ; whereas all they had in view was, to make known to him the wars that had arifen, in confequence of the goats that Captain Cook had left at Onecheow, and the flaughter of the poor goats themfelves, during the druggie for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying this earncftnefs of converfation, and thefe terrible representations, to our calamitous tranfactions at Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, kept his telefcope fixed upon us, and the moment he faw the fmoke of the mufqucts, ordered the boats to be manned and armed, and to put off to our affi fiance. Tuefday 2. The next morning, I was again ordered on fhore, with the watering party. The rifk we had run the preceding day determined Captain Clerke to fend a considerable force from both fhips for our guard, amounting in all to forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was now unnecef-fary; for wc found the beach left entirely to ourfelvcs, and the ground between the landing place and the lake, tabooed with fmall white flags. We concluded, from this appearance, that fome of the Chiefs had certainly vifitcd this quarter; and that, not being able to flay, they had kindly and confiderately taken this flep, for our greater fecurity and convenience. We faw feveral men armed with long fpears and daggers, on the other fide of the river, on our right; but they did not offer to give us the leaft moleftation. Their women THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 women came over, and fat down on the banks clofe by us, J179- 1 March, and at noon we prevailed on fome of the men to bring hogs <——' and roots for our people, and to drefs them for us. As foon as we had left the beach, they came down to the fea-fide, and one of them threw a flone at us ; but his conduct fcem-ing to be highly difapproved of by all the reft, we did not think it proper to fliew any refentment. The next day, we completed our watering, without meet- WWhdC 3. ing with any material difficulty. On our return to the mips, we found that feveral Chiefs had been on board, and had made excufes for the behaviour of their countrymen, attributing their riotous Conduct to the quarrels which fub-flfted at that time amongft the principal people of the ifland, and which had occafioned a general want of order and fub-ordination amongft them. The government of Atooi was in difpute between Toneoneo, who had the fupremc power when we were here laft year, and a boy named Teavee* They are both, by different fathers, the grandfons of Per-recorannee, king of Woahoo, who had given the government of Atooi to the former, and that of Oncehcow to the latter. The quarrel had arifen about the goats we had left at Oneeheow the laft year; the right of property in which was claimed by Toneoneo, on the pretence of that ifland's heing a dependency of his. The friends of Teavce infilling on the right of poiTeflion, both parties prepared to maintain their pretentions by force; and, a few days before our arrival, a battle had been fought, in which Toneoneo had been worried. The confequence of this victory was likely to affect Toneoneo in a much deeper manner than by the* mere lofs of the objects in difpute ; for the mother of Teavee, having married a fecond hufband, who was a Chief of Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he -1- thought \ March thought that the prefent opportunity was not to be neglected, v—-v—.-/ of driving Toneoneo entirely out of the ifland, and of advancing his fon-in-law to the government. I have already had occafion to mention, that the goats, which had increafed to the number of fix, and would, probably, in a few years, * , have flocked all thefe iflands, were deftroyed in the conteft. SWfday^ On the 4th, the mother and filler of the young prince and his father-in-law, with many other Chiefs of that party, came on board the Refolution, and made feveral curious and valuable prefents to Captain Clerke. Amongft the former, were fome fifh-hooks, which they affured us were made of the bones of our old friend Terreeoboo's father, who had been killed in an unfuccefsful defcent upon the ifland of Woahoo; and a fly flap, prefented to him by the prince's fifter, the handle of which was a human bone, that had been given her as a trophy by her father-in-law. Young Teavee was not of the company, being engaged, as we were told, in performing fome religious ceremonies, in confequence of the victory he had obtained, which were to laft twenty days. Friday s. This, and the two following days, were employed on Saturday 6. ^Qve^ -m completing the Difcovery's water ; and the carpenters were bufy on board, in caulking the fhips, and in making other preparations for our next cruife. The natives dcfifted from giving us any further difturbance; and we procured from them a plentiful fupply of pork and vegetables. At this time, an Indian brought a piece of iron on board the Difcovery to be fafhioned into the fhape of a palbooa. It was carefully examined both by the officers and men, and appeared to be the bolt of fome large fhip timbers. 2 They They were not able to difcovcr to what nation it belonged; Wfy but from the pale colour* of the iron, and its not corrc- \—«*—j fponding in fhape to our bolts, they concluded that it certainly was not Englifh. This led them to make a ftrict inquiry of the native, when and where he got it ; and if they comprehended him right, it had been taken out of a piece of timber, larger than the cable bit, to which he pointed. This piece of wood, they farther underftood from him to have been driven upon their ifland, fince we were here in January 1778. On the 7th, wc were furprized with a vifit from Toneo- Sunday 7, neo. When he heard the dowager princefs was in the fhip, it was with great difficulty wc could prevail on him to come on board, not from any apprehenfion that he appeared to entertain of his fafety, but from an unwillingnefs to fee her. Their meeting was with fulky and lowering looks on both fides. He flaid but a fhort time, and feemed much dejected ; but we remarked, with fome furprize, that the women, both at his coming and going away, proftrated themfelves before him; and that he was treated by all the natives on board with the refpect ufually paid to thofe of his rank. Indeed, it muft appear fome what extraordinary, that a perfon, who was at this time in a ftate of actual hoflility with Teavee's party, and was even prepared for another battle, mould trull himfelf almoft alone within the power of his enemies. It is, therefore, to be obferved, that the civil diffentions, which are very frequent throughout all the South Sea Iflands, feem to be carried on without much acrimony or bloodfhed ; and that the depofed governor ftill continues to enjoy the rank of an Eree, and is left to make * It was evident, that the iron we found in pofleflion of the natives at Nootka Sound, and which was moftly made into knives, was of a much paler fort than ours. Vol. III. O ufe March n^e °^ ^UC^1 means as ma3' anfe for the regaining his loll i \j confequence. But I fhall have occafion to fpeak more particularly on this fubjccl: in the next chapter ; in which the befl account will be given, .which we were able to collecT, of the political flate of thofe countries. Monday 8, Qn tjlc gtn? at nme }jj tne rnorning, we weighed, and failed toward Oneeheow ; and, at three in the afternoon, anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the fame fpot as in the year 1778. We moored with the other anchor in twenty-fix fathoms water. The high bluff, on the South end of the ifland, bore Eafl South Eafl; the North point of the road, North half Eafl; and a bluff head to the South of it, North Eafl by North. During the night, we had a flrong Tuefday 9. gale from the Eaftward ; and, in the morning of the 9th, found the fhip had driven a whole cable's length, and brought both anchors almofl ahead. We fhortcned in the befl bower cable; but the wind blowing too frefh to un- wednef. 10. rnoor, we were obliged to remain this and the two follow- Thurfdayu. ° ing days, with the anchors ft ill ahead, Friday 12* On the 12th, the weather being moderate, the mafter was fent to the North Weft fide of the ifland, to look for a more convenient place for anchoring. He returned in the evening, having found, clofe round the Weft point of the road where we now lay, which is alfo the Wcdcrnmoit point of ,the ifland, a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen fathoms water, a clear fandy bottom, not a mile from the beach, on which the furf beats, hut not fo as to hinder landing. The direction of the points of the bay were North by Eaft, and South by Weft; and, in that line, the foundings feven, eight, and nine fathoms. On the North fide of the bay was a fmall village; and a quarter of a mile to the the Eaflward were four fmall wells of good water: the *779; March road to them level, and fit for rolling cafks. Mr. Bligh u—y— went afterward fo far to the North as to fatisfy himfelf, that Orcehoua was a feparate ifland from Oneeheow; and that there was a paffage between them; which, before, we only conjectured to exift. In the afternoon we hoifled in all the boats, and made ready for going to fea in the morning* C li A too AVOYAGETO March. CHAP. VI. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands.—Their Number, Names, and Situation.—Owhyhee,—Its Extent, and Divifion into Difrifls.—Account of its Coafs, and the adjacent Country. —- Volcanic Appearances. — Snowy Mountains.—Their Height determined\—Account of a ^Journey into the interior Parts of the Country.—Mowee, —Tahoorowa. —Morotoi. — Ranai. — Woahoo.—■ Atooi.—Oneeheow.—Oreehoua.—Tahoora.—Climate.—Winds.—Currents.—Tides.—Animals and Vegetables .—Aftr07i omical Obfervations. 1779; A S we are now about to take our final leave of the Sand-ii wich Iflands, it will not be improper to introduce here fome general account of their fituation and natural hiflory, and of the manners and cufloms of the inhabitants. This fubject has indeed been, in fome mcafure, preoccupied by perfons far more capable of doing it juflice, than I can pretend to be. Had Captain Cook and Mr. An-derfon lived to avail themfelves of the advantages which we enjoyed by a return to thefe iflands, it cannot be quef-tioned, that the Public would have derived much additional information from the ikili and diligence of two fuch accurate obfervers. The reader will therefore lament with me our common misfortune, which hath deprived him of the labours of fuch fuperior abilities, and impofed on me the tafk of preferring him with the bed fupplementary account the various duties of my flation permitted me to furnifli. This This group confifts of eleven iflands, extending in lati- 'W tude from iB°54' to 220 15' North; and in longitude from -v— J99°36' to 2050 06'Eafl. They are called by the natives; 1. Owhyhee. 2. Mowee. 3. Ranai, or Oranai. 4. Moro-tinnee, or Morokinnee. 5. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa* 6. Morotoi, or Morokoi. 7. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 8. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi, and fometimes Kowi *. 9. Neeheehow, orOneeheow. 10. Oreehoua, or Reehoua; and, 1 r. Tahoora; and are all inhabited, excepting Morotinnee and Tahoora, Befidcs the iflands above enumerated, wc were told by the Indians, that there is another called Modoopapapa-f, or Ko-modoopapapa, lying to the Wefl South Weil of Tahoora, which is low and fandy, and vilited only for the purpofe of catching turtle and fea-fowl; and, as I could never learn that they knew of any others, it is probable that none cxifl in their neighbourhood. They were named by Captain Cook the Sandwich Ijlands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, under whofe adminhlra-lion he had enriched geography with fo many fplendid and important difcoveries; a tribute juflly due to that noble perfon for the liberal fupport thefe voyages derived from his power, in whatever could extend their utility, or promote their fuccefs; for the zeal with which he feconded the views of that great navigator; and, if I may be allowed to add the voice of private gratitude, for the generous protection, which, fince the death of their unfortunate commander, he has afforded all the officers that ferved under him. Owhyhee, the Eaflernmofl, and by much the largefl, of thefe iflands, is of a triangular fhape, and nearly cquilate- * It is to be obferved, that, among the windward Iflands, the I- is ufed inflead of the r, as Morokoi inftead of Morotoi, &c. t Modoo fignifics ifland; papapa, flat. This ifland is called Tammatapnppa, by Captain Cook, vol, II. p. 222, rah *779. ral. The angular points make the North, Eaft, and South March. or A- -*—t extremities, of which the Northern is in latitude 20* 17/ North, longitude 2040 02' Eaft : the Eaftern in latitude 19° 34/ North, longitude 2050 06' Eaft; and the Southern extremity in latitude 180 54' North, longitude 204* 15' Eaft. Its great-eft length, which lies in a direction nearly North and South, is 28^- leagues ; its breadth is 24 leagues; and it is about 255. geographical, or 293 Ehglifh miles, in circumference. The whole ifland is divided into fix large diftricts ; Amakooa and Aheedoo, which lie on the North Eaft fide; Apoona and Kaoo on the South Eaft ; Akona andKoaarra on the Weft* The diftridfs of Amakooa and Aheedoo are feparated by a mountain called Mouna Kaah (or the mountain Kaah), which rifts in three peaks, perpetually.covered with mow, and may be clearly feen at 40 leagues diftance. To the North of this mountain the coaft confifts of high and abrupt cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cafcades of water. We were once flattered with the hopes of meeting with a harbour round a blufF head-, in latitude 200 10' North, and longitude 2040 26' Eaft: but, on doubling the point, and Handing clofe in, wc found it connected by a low valley, with another high head to the North Weft. The country rifes inlnnd with a gentle afcent, is interfected by deep narrow glens, or rather chafms, and appeared to be well cultivated andfprinkled over with a number of villages. The fnowy mountain is very deep, and the lower part of it covered with wood. The coaft of Aheedoo, which lies to the South of Mouna Kaah, is of a moderate height, and the interior parts appear more even than the country to the North Weft, and lefs broken by ravines. Off thefe two diftricts we cruized for al- 2 moft moft a month: and. whenever our diftance from more _J779* 9 1 March, would permit it, were fure of being furrounded by canoes <-y-' laden with all kinds of refreshments. We had frequently a very heavy fea, and great fwell on this fide of the ifland, and as we had no foundings, and could obfervc much foul ground off the fhore, we never approached nearer the land than two or three leagues, excepting on the occafion already mentioned. The coaft to the North Eaft of Apoona, which forms the Eaftern extremity of the ifland, is low and flat; the acclivity of the inland parts is very gradual, and the whole country covered with cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. This, as far as we could judge, is the fineft part of the ifland, and we were afterward told that the king had a place of refidence here. At the South Weft extremity the hills rife abruptly from the fea-fide, leaving but a narrow border of low ground toward the beach. We were pretty near the fhore at this part of the ifland, and found the fides of the hills covered with a fine verdure; but the country feemed to be very thinly inhabited. On doubling the Eaft point of the ifland, we came in fight of another fnowy mountain, called Mouna Roa (or the extenfive mountain), which continued to be a very confpicuous object all the while we were failing along the South Eaft fide. It is flat at the top, making what is called by mariners table-land: the fummit was conftantly huricd in mow, and we once faw its fides alfo flightly covered for a confiderable way down ; but the grcatcft part of this difappcarcd again in a few days. According to the tropical line of fnow, as determined by Mr. Condamine, from obfervations taken on the Cordilleras, this mountain muft be at lcaft iG,o2o feet high, which exceeds ceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden's computation, or 3680, according to that of the Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high; and as they are entirely covered with fnow, the altitude of their fummits cannot be lefs than 18,400 feet. But it is probable that both thefe mountains may be conftderably higher. For, in infular fituations, the effects of the warm fea air muff neceffarily remove the line of fnow, in equal latitudes, to a greater height than where the atmofphere is chilled on all fides by an immenfc tract of perpetual fnow. The coafl of Kaoo prefents a profpect of the moft horrid and dreary kind : the whole country appearing to have undergone a total change from the effects of fome dreadful convulfion. The ground is every where covered with cinders, and interfered in many places with black flreaks, which feem to mark the courfe of a lava that has flowed, not many ages back, from the mountain Roa to the fhore. The Southern promontory looks like the mere dregs of a volcano. The projecting head-land is compofed of broken and craggy rocks, piled irregularly on one another, and terminating in fharp points. Notwithftanding the difmal afpect of this part of the ifland, there are many villages fcattcrcd over it, and it certainly is much more populous than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is this circumftance hard to be accounted for. As thefe iflanders have no cattle, they have confequently no ufe for pafturage, and therefore naturally prefer fuch ground, as either lies more convenient for fifhing, or is beft fuited to the cultivation of yams and plantains. Now amidft thefe ruins, there are many patches of rich foil, which are care-3 fully fully laid out in plantations, and the neighbouring fea abounds with a variety of moft excellent fi(h, with which, as well as with other provifions, we were always plentifully fupplied. Off this part of the coaft we could find no ground, at lefs than a cable's length from the fhore, with a hundred and fixty fathoms of line, excepting iii a fmall bight to the I aftward of the South point, where we had regular foundings of fifty and fifty-eight fathoms over a bottom of fine fand. Before we proceed to the weflern diftricts, it may be neceffary to remark, that the whole coaft fide of the ifland, from the Northern to the Southern extremity, does not afford the fmalleft harbour or fhelter for fhipping. The South Weft parts of Akona are in the fame ftate with the adjoining diftrict of Kaoo; but farther to the North, the country has been cultivated with great pains, and is extremely populous. In this part of the ifland is fituated Karakakooa Bay, which has been already defcribed. Along the coaft nothing is fecn but large maffes of flag, and the fragments of black fcorch-ed rocks; behind which, the ground rifes gradually for about two miles and a half, and appears to have been formerly covered with loofe burnt flones. Thefe the natives have taken the pains of clearing away, frequently to the depth of three feet and upward; which labour, great as it Is, the fertility of the foil amply repays. Here, in a rich afhy mould, they cultivate fweet potatoes, and the cloth-plant. The fields are inclofed with ftone-fences, and are in-terfperfed with groves of cocoa-nut trees. On the rifing ground beyond thefe, the bread-fruit trees are planted, and flourifh with the greatcft luxuriance. Vol. III. P Koaara '779' Koaara extends from the Wefternmoft point to the Nor-v ~t thern extremity of the iiland ; the whole coaft between them forming an cxtenfive bay, called Toe-yah-yah, which is bounded to the North by two very confpicuous hills. Toward the bottom of this bay there is foul, corally ground, extending upward of a mile from the fhore, without which the foundings are regular, with good anchorage, in twenty fathoms. The country, as far as the eye could reach, feemed fruitful and well inhabited, the foil being in appearance of the fame kind with the diftrict of Kaoo j but no frefh water is to be got here. 1 have hitherto confined myfelf to the coafts of this ifland, and the adjacent country, which is all that I had an opportunity of being acquainted with from my own obfervation. The only account I can give of the interior parts, is from the information I obtained from a party, who fct out, on the afternoon of the 26th of January, on an expedition up the country, with an intention of penetrating as far as they could; and principally of reaching, if polTible, the fnowy mountains. Having procured two natives to ferve them as guides, they left the village about four o'clock in the afternoon, directing their courfe a little to the Southward of the Eaft. To the diftance of three or four miles from the bay, they found the country as before defcribed ; the hills afterward* rofc with a more fudden afcent, which brought them to the cxtenfive plantations, that terminate the view of the country, as feen from the fhips. Thefe plantations conftft of the * tarrow or eddy roor, and the fweet potatoe, with plants of the cloth-tree, neatly fet * Both the fweet potatoes, and the tarrow, are here planted four fc*t from each other ; the former was earthed up aim oft to the top of the flalk, with about half a bufhei. fet out in rows. The walls that feparatc them arc made of *779/ * March. the loofe burnt flones, which are got in clearing the ground; -.y../ and, being entirely concealed by fugar-canes, planted clofe on each fide, make the mod beautiful fences that can be conceived. The party flopped for the night at the fecond hut they found amongft the plantations, where they judged themfelves to be about fix or feven miles from the fhips. They defcribed the profpect from this fpot as very delightful ; they faw the fhips in the bay before them; to the left, a continued range of villages, interfperfed with groves of cocoa-nut trees, fprcading along the fea-fhorc; a thick wood ftretching out of fight behind them; and to the right, an ex- ' tent of ground laid out in regular and well cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach. Near this fpot, at a diftance from any other dwelling, the natives pointed out to them the refidence of an hermit, who, they faid, had formerly been a great Chief and warrior, but had long ago quitted the fhores of the ifland, and now never ftirred from his cottage. They proftrated themfelves as they approached him, and afterward prefented to him a part of fuch provifions as they had brought with them. His behaviour was cafy and cheerful; he fcarce fhewed any marks of aftonifhment at the fight of our people, and though preffed to accept fome of our curiofitics, he bufhcl of lit -lit mould ; the latter is left bare to the root, and the mould round it is made in the form of a bafon, in order to hold the rain-water, as this root requires a certain degree of moifturc. It has been before obferved, that the tarrow, at the Friendly and Society Iflands, was always planted in low and moift fituations, and, generally, when? iherc was the conveniency of a rivulet to flood it. It was imagined that this mode of culture was abfolutely neceflary ; but we newfound, that, with the precaution above mentioned, it fuccceds equally well in a drier fituation : indeed, we all remarked, that the tarrow of the Sandwich Iflands is the beft we had ever tafted. The plantains are Jiot admitted in thefe plantations, but grow amongft the bread-fruit trees. P 2 'declined zwiarcis declined tae 0n~er> and ibon withdrew to his cottage. He u^v-^j was defcribed as by far the oldeft perfon any of the party had ever feen, and judged to be, by thofe who computed his age at the loweft, upward of i oo years old. As our people had imagined the mountain not to be more than ten or twelve miles from the bay, and confequently, that they fhould reach it with eafe early the next morning, an error into which its great height had probably led them, they were now much furprifed to find the diftance fcarce perceptibly diminifhed. This circumftance, together with the uninhabited ftate of the country they were going to enter, made it neceffary to procure a fupply of provifions ; and for that purpofe they difpatched one of their guides back to the village. Whilft they were waiting his return, they were joined by fome of Kaoo's fervants, whom that benevolent old man had fent after them, as foon as he heard of their journey, laden with refrefhments, and authorized, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand and take away whatever they might have occafion for. Our travellers were much aftonifhed to find the cold here fo intenfc; but having no thermometer with them, could . judge of it only by their feelings; which, from the warm atmofphere they had left, muft have been a very fallacious mcafure. They found it, however, fo cold, that they could get but little fleep, and the natives none at all; both parties being difturbed, the whole night, by continued coughing. As they could not, at this time, be at any \ery confidcrable height, the diftance from the fea being only fix or feven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate afcent, this extraordinary degree of cold muft be afciibed to the eafterly wind blowing frefh over the fnowy mountains. Early THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 109 i * Early on the 27th, they fet out again, and filled their ca- ^9-libafhes at an excellent well about half a mile from their <_ hut. Having paiTed the plantations, they came to a thick Saturday *7* wood, which they entered by a path made for the convenience of the natives, who go thither to fetch the wild or horfc-plantain, and to catch birds. Their progrefs now became very flow, and attended with much labour; the ground being either fwampy, or covered with large flones; the path narrow, and frequently interrupted by trees lying acrofs it, which it was neccfTary to climb over, the thicknefs of the under-wood, on both fides, making it impofliblc to pafs round them. In thefe woods they obferved, at fmall dif-tanccs, pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, which they fuppofed to be land-marks for the divifion of property, as they only met with them where the wild plantains grew. The trees, which are of the fame kind with thofe we called the fpice-trec at New Holland, were lofty and ftraight, and from two to four feet in circumference. After they had advanced about ten miles in the wood, they had the mortification to find themfelves, on a fudden, within fight of the fea, and at no great diflance from it; the path having turned imperceptibly to the Southward, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was their object to reach. Their difappointment was greatly increased by the uncertainty they were now under of its true hearings, fince they could not, at this time, get a view of it from the top of the highefl trees. They, therefore, found themfelves obliged to walk back fix or feven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left three of the natives, and two of their own people, with the fmall flock that remained of their provifions. Here they fpent the fecond nigfu; and the air was fo very fharp, and fo little to the 5 likinS liking of their guides, that, by the morning, they had all taken themfelves off, except one. The want of provifions now making it neceffary to return to forne of the cultivated parts of the ifland, they quitted the wood by the fame path they had entered it; and, on their arrival at the plantations, were furrounded by the natives, of whom they purchafed a frefh flock of ncceflaries ; and prevailed upon two of them to fupply the place of the guides that were gone away. Having obtained the befl in-formation in their power, with regard to the direction of their road, the party being now nine in number, marched along the fkirts of the wood for fix or feven miles, and then entered it again by a path that bore to the Eaflward. For the firft three miles, they palled through a foreft of lofty fpice-trecs, growing on a flrong rich loam ; at the back of which they found an equal extent of low fhrubby trees, with much thick underwood, on a bottom of loofe burnt flones. This led them to a fecond foreft of fpice-trecs, and the fame rich brown foil, which was again fucceeded by a barren ridge of the fame nature with the former. This alternate fucceflion may, perhaps, afford matter of curious fpecula-tion to naturalifls. The only additional circumftance I could learn relating to it was, that thefe ridges appeared, as far as they could be fecn, to run in directions parallel to the fea-lhorc, and to have Mouna Roa for their centre. In paffing through the woods, they found many canoes half-fmifhed ; and, here and there, a hut; but faw none of the inhabitants. Having penetrated near three miles into the fecond wood, they came to two huts, where they flopped, exceedingly fatigued with the day's journey, having walked not lefs than twenty miles, according to their own computation. As they had met with no fprings, from the time they they left the plantation-ground, and began to fuller much from the violence of their third, they were obliged, before '- the night came on, to fcparate into parties, and go in fearch of water; and, at laft, found fome, left by rain in the bottom of an unfinifhed canoe ; which, though of the colour of red wine, was to them no unwelcome difcovery. In the night, the cold was ftill more intenfe than they had found it before; and though they had wrapped themfelves up in mats and cloths of the country, and kept a large fire between the two huts, they could yet fleep but very little ; and were obliged to walk about the greatefl part of the night. Their elevation was now probably pretty confidcr-able, as the ground on which they had travelled had been generally on the afcent. On the SKjth, at day-break, they fet out, intending to make their laft and utmoft effort to reach the fnowy mountain ; ■ but their fpirits were much depreflcd, when they found they had expended the miferable pittance of water they had found the night before. The path, which extended no farther than where canoes had been built, was now at an end; and they were therefore obliged to make their way as well as they could; every now and then climbing up into the higheft trees, to explore the country round. Ac eleven o'clock, they came to a ridge of burnt flones, from the top of which they faw the fnowy mountain, appearing to be about twelve or fourteen miles from them. It was here deliberated, whether they fhould proceed any further, or reft fatisfied with the view they now had of • Mouna Roa. The road, ever fince the path ceafed, had become exceedingly fatiguing j and, every moment they advanced, was growing ftill more fo. The deep chinks, with 'which the ground was every where broken, being flightJy covered covered with mofs, made them flumble at almoft every ftep; and the intermediate fpace was a furface of loofe burnt flones, which broke under their feet like potfherds. They threw flones into feveral of thefe chinks; which, by the noife they made, feemed to fall to a confiderable depth, and the ground founded hollow under their feet. Befides thefe difcouraging circumftanccs, they found their guides fo averfc to going on, that they believed, t whatever their own determinations might have been, they could not have prevailed on them to remain out another night. They, therefore, at laft agreed to return to the fhips, after taking a view of the country, from the higheft trees which the place afforded. From this elevation they faw themfelves furrounded, on all fides, with wood toward *:he fea; they could not diftingutfh, in the horizon, the fky from the water; and between them and the fnowy mountain, was a valley about feven or eight miles broad, above which the mountain appeared only as a hill of a moderate fize. They reded this night at a hut in the fecond wood, and on the 50th, before noon, they had got clear of the firft, and found themfelves about nine miles to the North Eaft of the fhips, toward which they directed their march through the plantations. As they paffed along, they did not obferve a finglc fpot of ground, that was capable of improvement, left implanted; and, indeed, it appeared, from their account, hardly pofliblc for the country to be cultivated to greater advantage for the purpofes of the inhabitants, or made to yield them a larger fupply of ncccftaries for their fubfift-ence They were furprized to meet with feveral fields of hay; and on inquiring to what ufes it was applied, were told, it was defigned to cover the young tarrow grounds, in order order to prefervc them from being fcorched by the fun. They faw a few fcattered huts amongft the plantations, which ferved for occafional fhelter to the labourers; but no villages at a greater diftance than four or five miles from the fea. Near one of them, about four miles from the bay, they found a cave, forty fathoms long, three broad, and of the fame height. It was open at both ends*, the fides were fluted, as if wrought with a chiffel, and the furfacc glazed over, probably by the action of fire. Having given this account of the moft material circumftanccs that occurred on the expedition to the fnowy mountain, I fhall now return to the other iflands that remain to be defcribed. The ifland next in fize, and neareft in fituation, to Owhyhee, is Mowee ; which lies at the diftance of eight leagues North North Weft from the former, and is 140 geographical miles in circumference. A low ifthmus divides it into two circular peninfulas, of which that to the Eaft is called Whamadooa, and is double the fize of the Weflern pen in* fula called Owhyrookoo. The mountains in both rife to an exceeding great height, having been feen by us at the diftance of upward of thirty leagues. The Northern fhores, like thofe of Owhyhee, afford no foundings ; and the country prefents the fame appearance of verdure and fertility. To the South Eaft, be tween this and the adjacent ifles, we had regular depths with a hundred and fifty fathoms, with a fandy bottom. From the Weft point, which is low, runs a fhoal, ftretching out toward Ranai, to a confldcrable diftance; and to the Southward of this, is a fine fpacious bay, with a fandy beach, fhaded with cocoa-nut trees. It is probable that good anchorage might be found here, with fhel- Vol. III. tcr *779- tcr from the prevailing winds, and that the beach affords a March. • i r i t i ii.-. i . __' convenient place for landing. The country behind prefents a moft romantic appearance. The hills rife almoft perpendicularly, in a great variety of peaked forms; and their flecp fides, and the deep cfiafms between them, are covered with trees, amongft which thofe of the bread-fruit were obferved particularly to abound. The tops of thefe hills arc entirely bare, and of a reddifh brown colour. We were informed by the natives, that there is an harbour to the Southward of the Eafl point, which they affirmed to be fuperiour to that of Karakakooa; and we were alfo told, that, on the North Wefl fide, there was another harbour, called Keepoo-keepoo. tahoorowa is a fmall ifland lying off the South Wefl part of Mowee, from which it is diftant three leagues. This ifland is deflitute of wood, and the foil fecms to be fandy and barren. Between Tahowrowa and Mowee lies the fmall uninhabited ifland Morrotinnee. Morotoi is only two leagues and a half from Mowee to the Wefl North Wefl. The South Weflern coafl, which was the only part near which we approached, is very low; but the land rifes backward to a confiderable height; and, at the-diflance from which we faw it, appeared to be entirely without wood. Its produce, we were told, confifls chiefly of yams. It may, probably, have frefh water, and, on the South and Wefl fides, the coafl forms feveral bays, that pro-mifc good flicker from the trade winds. Ranai is about three leagues diflant from Mowee and Morotoi, and lies to the South Wefl of the paffage between thefe iflands. The country, to the South, is high and craggy; but the other parts of the ifland had a better af- 8 pcc% peel, and appeared to be well inhabited. We were told that it produces very few plantains, and bread-fruit trees; but that it abounds in roots, fuch as yams, fweet potatoes, and tarrow. Woahoo lies to the North Well of Morotoi, at the diflance of about feven leagues. As far as we could judge, from the appearance of the North Eafl and North Well parts (for we faw nothing of the Southern fide), it is by far the finefl ifland of the whole group. Nothing can exceed the verdure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and rich cultivated vallics, which the whole face of the country dif-played. Having already given a defcription of the bay, formed by the North and Wefl extremities, in which wc came to anchor, I have only to obferve, that in the bight of the bay, to the South of the anchoring-placc, wc found rocky foul ground, two miles from the fhore. Should the -ground tackling of a fhip be weak, and the wind blow llrong from the North, to which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumflance might be attended with fome danger ; but with good cables there would be little rifk, as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is oppofitc to the valley through which the river runs, to the North point, is a fine fand. Atooi lies to the North Well of Woahoo, and is diftant from it about twTenty-five leagues. The face of the country, to the North Eaft and North Weft, is broken and ragged; hut to the South it is more even ; the hills rife with a gentle flope from the fca-fide, and, at fome diflance back, are covered with wood. Its productions are the fame with thofe of the other iflands • but the inhabitants far, furpafs all the neighbouring iilanders in the management of their plant- Q^2 ations. ^779- ations. In the low grounds, adjoining to the bay where we v.—v—-j lay at anchor, thefe plantations were divided by deep and regular ditches ; the fences were made with a neatnefs approaching to elegance, and the roads through them were thrown up and finifhed, in a manner that would have done credit to any European engineer. Oneeheow lies five leagues to the Weflward of Attooh The Eaflern coafl is high, and rifes abruptly from the fea, but the refl of the ifland confifts of low ground; excepting a round bluff head on the South Eafl point. It produces abundance of yams, and of the fweet root called lirj but we got from it no other fort of provifions. Oreehoua, and Tahoora, are two fmall iflands in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow. The former is a fingle high hummock, joined by a reef of coral rocks to the Northern extremity of Oneeheow. The latter lies to the South Eafl, and is uninhabited. The climate of the Sandwich Iflands differs very little from that of the Wefl India Iflands, which lie in the fame latitude. Upon the whole, perhaps, it may be rather more temperate. The thermometer, on fhore in Karakakooa Bay^ never rofe higher than 88°, and that but one day ; its mean height, at noon, was 830. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at noon was 760, and when out at fea, 750. The mean height of the thermometer at noon, in Jamaica, is about 86% at fea 8o°. Whether they be fubject to the fame violent winds and hurricanes, we could not difcover, as we were not there in any of the flormy months. However, as the natives gave us no pofitive teflimony of the fact, and no traces of their effects were any where viable, it is probable that, in this refpect, refpect, they refemble the Society and Friendly Iflands, ^779-which are, in a great meafure, free from thefe dreadful vi- v.—.—' rotations. During the four winter months that we remained amongft thefe iflands, there was more rain, efpccially in the interior parts, than ufually falls during the dry feafon in the iflands of the Weft Indies. Wc generally faw clouds collecting round the tops of the hills, and producing rain to leeward -but after they are feparated from the land by the wind, they difperfe, and are loft, and others fucceed in their place. This happened daily at Owhyhee: the mountainous parts being generally enveloped in a cloud; fucceflive fhowers falling in the inland country; with fine weather, and a clear fky at the fea-more. The winds in general were, from Eaft South Eaft to North Eaft; though this fometimes varied a few points each way to the North and South; but thefe were light, and of fhort duration. In the harbour of Karakakooa, we had a conftant land and fea-brecze every day and night. The currents feemed very uncertain; fometimes fetting to windward; and, at other times, to leeward, without any regularity. They did not appear to be governed by the winds, nor any other caufe that I can aflign : they frequently fet to-windward again ft a frefh breeze. The tides are very regular, flowing and ebbing fix hours each. The flood comes from the Eaftward ; and it is high "water at the full and change of the moon, forty-five minutes paft three, apparent time. Their greater! rife is two feet feven inches; and we always obferved the water to be *our inches higher when the moon was above the horizon, than when it was below, 7 The The quadrupeds in thefe, as in all the other iflands that have been difcovered in the South fea, are confined to three forts, dogs, hogs, and rats. The dogs arc of the fame fpc-cics with thofe of Otahcitc, having fhort crooked legs, long backs, and pricked ears. I did not obferve any variety in them, except in their fkins; fome having long and rough hair, and others being quite fmooth. They are about the fize of a common turnfpit; exceedingly fluggifli in their nature; though perhaps this may be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to any natural dif-poiition in them. They arc, in general, fed, and left to herd, with the hogs; and I do not recollect one inflance in which a dog was made a companion in the manner we do in Europe. Indeed, the cuflom of eating them is an infu-perable bar to their admiflion into fociety, and as there are neither beafts of prey in the ifland, nor objects of chacc, it is probable, that the focial qualities of the dog, its fidelity, attachment, and fagacity, will remain unknown to the natives. The number of dogs in thefe iflands did not appear to be nearly equal, in proportion, to thofe in Otahcitc. But on the other hand, they abound much more in hogs; and the breed is of a larger and weightier kind. The fupply of provifions of this kind, which wc got from them, was really aflonifhing. Wc were near four months, cither cruifing off the coafl, or in harbour at Owhyhee. During all this time, a large allowance of frefh pork was conftantly ferved to both crews: fo that our confumption was computed at about fixty puncheons of five hundred weight each. Befides this, and the incredible waflc which, in the midfl of fuch plenty, was not to be guarded againfl, fixty puncheons more were .faked for fea ftore. The greatcfl part of this fupply was drawn drawn from the ifland of Owhyhee alone, and yet wc could *j]7gj not perceive that it was at all drained, or even that the abun- i—.—' dance had any way decreafed. The birds of thefe iflands are as beautiful as any wc have' fcen during the voyage, and are numerous, though not various. There arc four, which fcem to belong to the trochlll, or honey-fuckers of Linnceus ; one of which is fomething larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a fine gloffy black, the rump-vent and thighs a deep yellow. It is called by the natives Ijoo/joo. Another is of an exceeding bright fcarlet colour; the wings black, and edged with white ; and the tail black; its native name is , eeeere. A third, which feems to be either a young bird, or a variety of the foregoing, is variegated with red, brown, and yellow. The fourth is entirely green, with a tinge of yellow, and is called akdiearooa. There is a fpecies of thrufh, with a grey breaft; and a fmall bird of the flycatcher kind j a rail, with very fhort wings and no tail, which, on that account, we named rallus ecau-dotus. Ravens are found here, but they are very fcarce; their colour is dark brown, inclining to black; and their note is different from the European. Here arc two fmall birds, both of one genus, that are very common; one is red, and generally feen about the cocoa-nut trees, particularly when they are in flower, from whence it feems to derive great part of its fubfiflencc; the other is green; the tongues of both arc long and ciliated, or fringed at lhe tip. A bird with a yellow head, which, from the firufture of its beak, we called a parroquet, is likewife veOr common. It, however, by no means belongs to that tnbe, but greatly refembles the lexia favieans, or yellowifh <*ofs-bill of Linnxus. Here 1779- Here are alfo owls, plovers of two forts, one very like March. r ' J ^—„_j the whittling plover of Europe ; a large white pigeon; a bird with a long tail, whofe colour is black, the vent and feathers under the wing (which is much longer than is ufually feen in the generality of birds, except the birds of paradife) arc yellow; and the common water or darker hen. Their vegetable productions are nearly the fame with the reft of the South-fea iflands* I have before mentioned, that the tarrow root is much fuperiour to any we had before tatted, and that we attributed this excellence to the dry method of cultivating it. The bread-fruit trees thrive here, not in fuch abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the fame height, but the branches begin to ttrike out from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxuriance. Their fugar-canes are alfo of a very unufual fize. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, meafuring eleven inches and a quarter in circumference ; and having fourteen feet eatable. At Oneeheow they brought us feveral large roots of a brown colour, fliapcd like a yam, and from fix to ten pounds in weight. The juice, which it yields in great abundance, is very fweet, and of a pleafant tafle, and was found to be an excellent fubftitutc for fugar. The natives are very fond of it, and ufe it as an article of their common diet • and our people alfo found it very palatable and wholefome. We could not learn to what fpecies of plant it belonged, having never been able to procure the leaves ; but it was fuppofed, by our botanifts, to be the root of fome kind of fern. Agreeably Agreeably to the practice of Captain Cook, I fhall fubjoin an abftract of the agronomical obfervations which were >—-v—' made at the obfervatory in Karakakooa Bay, for determining its latitude and longitude, and for finding the rate and error of the time-keeper. To thefe are fubjoined the mean variation of the compafs, the dip of the magnetic needle, and a table of the latitude and longitude of the Sandwich Iflands, The latitiut of the obfervatory, deduced from meridian zenith diflances of the fun, eleven ftars to the South, and four liars to the North of the zenith 190 28' o" North. The longitude of the obfervatory, deduced from 253 fets of lunar obfervations; each let confifling of fix obferved diflances of the fun from the moon, or liars; 14 of the above fets were only taken at the obfervatory, 105 fets being taken whilft cruizing off Owhyhee ; and 134 fets, when at Atooi and Oneeheow; all thefe being reduced to the obfervatory, by means of the time keeper - - 2040 o' 0" Eaft, The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the 19th January 1779. according to its rate, as found at Greenwich - 2140 7' 15" Eaft. The longitude of the obfervatory, by the time-keeper, on the 19th January *779> according to its rate, corrected at different places, and laft at Samga-noodha Harbour, in Oonalafchka - 203* 37' 22" Eaft. Vol. III. K The J779* March, y----t The daily rate of the time-keeper lofing on mean time, was 9", 6 ; and on the 2d February 1779, it was 14" 41' 1" flow for mean time. The variation of the compafs, by azimuths obferved on fhore, with four different compaffes The variation of the compafs, by azimuths, obferved on board the Refolution, with four different compaffes - 8* 6' o" Eafl. f 32' o" Eaft. Dip of the North pole of the magnetic needle, on fhore, with Dip of the North pole of the magnetic needle on board, with Balanced needle") 40 Unbalanced or plain needle 22' 30" 40 41' Balanced needle? 410 50' Unbalanced needle) 40* 30' 15". 45 A Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Sandwich Iflands, Latitude. Longitude. 1 'The North point - 20° 17' 204* 2.' Owhyhee ( South point Eaft point - '8° 54' - 19° 34' 204° 15' 2050 -6' Karakakooa Bay - 19" 28' 3040 o' 1 ' Eafl point 0 / - 20 50 2040 4' Mowee ' < South point - 20° 34' 203° 48' I Wefl point - $4 203° 24' Morokinnce — — - 20° 39' 2°3° 33' Tahoorowa — ~ - 20° 38' 2030 27' Ranai. South point - 20° 46° 2030 8' Morotoi. Weil point - 21° 10' 202° 46' Woahoo. Latitude. Longitude. Woahoo. Anchoring-place - 21° 43' «02° 9' Atooi. Wymoa Bay - 21° si 2 GO* 2o' Oneeheow. Anchoring-place - 21° 5°' 199* 45' Oreehoua - 22° 2.' 199° 52' Tahoora r ** - - - 2!° 43' 199° 3^ \ CHAP, CHAP. VH. General Accou?tt of the Sandwich Iflands continued.—Of the Inhabitants.—Their Origin.—Perfons.—Pernicious Ef-fetls of the Ava.—Numbers.—Difpoftion and Manners. —Reajons for fuppoflng them not Cannibals.—Drefs and Orna?nents.—^Villages and Houfes.—Food.—Occupations and Amufements.—AddtEled to Gajning.—Their extraordinary Dexterity in Swimming.—Arts a?id Manufactures.—Curious Specimens of their Sculpture —Kipparee, or Method of painting Cloth.—Mats.—Fifing Hooks. —Cordage.—Salt Pans.'—Warlike Inflruments. THE inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands are undoubtedly of the fame race with thofe of New Zealand, the Society and Friendly Iflands, Eafter Ifland, and the Marque-fas; a race that poffeffes, without any intermixture, all the known lands between the latitudes of 470 South, and 200 North, and between the longitudes of 1840 and 2600 Eaft. This fact, which, extraordinary as it is, might be thought fufficicntly proved by the ftriking fimilarity of their manners and cuftoms, and the general refemblance of their perfons, is eftablilhed, beyond all controverfy, by the abfolute identity of their language. From what continent they originally emigrated, and by what fleps they have fpread through fo vaft a fpace, thofe who are curious in difquifitions of this nature, may per-3 haps Iiaps not find it very difficult to conjecture. It has been already obferved, that they bear flrong marks of affinity to fome of the Indian tribes, that inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline Iflands; and the fame affinity may again be traced amongft the Battas and the Malays. When thefe events happened, is not fo eafy to afcertain; it was probably not very lately, as they are extremely populous, arid have no tradition of their own origin, but what is perfectly fabulous ; whilfl, on the other hand, the unadulterated flate of their general language, and the fimplicity which flill prevails in their cufloms and manners, feem to indicate, that it could not have been at any very diftant period. The natives of thefe iflands are, in general, above the middle fize, and well made j they walk very gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of bearing great fatigue; though, upon the whole, the men are fome what inferior, in point of ftrength and activity, to the Friendly iflanders, and the women lefs delicately limbed than thofe of Otaheite. Their complexion is rather darker than that of the Otaheite-ans, and they are not altogether fo handfome a people *. However, many of both fexes had fine open countenances; and the women, in particular, had good eyes and teeth, and a fweetnefs and fenfibility of look, which rendered them very engaging. Their hair is of a brownifh black, and neither uniformly ftraighr, like that of the Indians of America, nor uniformly curling, as amongft the African negroes, but varying, in this refpect, like the hair of Europeans. One ftriking peculiarity, in the features of every part of this great nation, I do not remember to have feen any * The annexed print of a man of Sandwich Iflands^ was taken from a portrait of our friend Kancena, where where mentioned; which is, that, even in the handfomeft faces, there is always a fulnefs of the noftril, without any ilatnefs or fpreading of the nofe, that diftinguiih.es them from Europeans. It is not improbable that this may be the effect of their ufual mode of falutation, which is performed by prefling the ends of their nofes together. The fame fuperiority that is obfervable in the perfons of the Erees, through all the other iflands, is found alfo here. Thofe whom we faw were, without exception, perfectly well formed; whereas the lower fort, befides their general inferiority, are fubject to all the variety of make and figure that is feen in the populace of other countries, lnftances of deformity are more frequent here, than in any of the other iflands. Whilft we were cruifing off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board, one an old man, four feet two inches high, but exactly proportioned, and the other a woman, nearly of the fame height. We afterward faw three natives, who were hump-backed, and a young man, born without hands or feet. Squinting is alfo very common amongft them ; and a man, who, they faid, had been born blind, was brought to us to be cured. Befides thefe particular imperfections, they are, in general, very fubject to boils and ulcers,-which we attributed to the great quantity of fait they eat with their flefh and fifth. The Erees are very free from thefe complaints; but many of them fufter ftill more dreadful effects from the immoderate ufe of the ava* Thofe who were the moft affected by it, had their bodies covered with a white fcurf, their eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, the whole frame trembling and paralytic, accompanied with a disability to raife the head. Though this drug does not appear univerfally to fhorten life, as was evident evident from the cafes of Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and fome other JJ79; - March, Chiefs, who were very old men; yet it invariably brings on *->-» an early and decrepid old age. It is fortunate, that the ufe of it is made one of the peculiar privileges of the Chiefs. The young fon of Terreeoboo, who was about twelve years old, ufed to boafl of his being admitted to drink ava, and fhewed us, with great triumph, a fmall fpbt in his fide that was growing fcaly. There is fomething very Angular in the hiftory of this pernicious drug. When Captain Cook firft vifited the Society Iflands, it was very little known among them. On his fecond voyage, he found the ufe of it vety prevalent at Ulietea; but it had ftill gained very little ground at Otaheite. When we were laft there, the dreadful havock it had made was beyond belief, infomuch that the Captain fcarce knew many of his old acquaintances. At the Friendly Iflands, it is alfo conftantly drunk by the Chiefs, but fo much diluted with water, that it does not appear to produce any bad effects. At Atooi, alfo, it is ufed with great moderation, and the Chiefs are, in confequence, a much finer fet of men there, than in any of the neighbouring iflands. We remarked, that, by difcontinu-ing the ufe of this root, the noxious effects of it foon wore off. Our good friends, Kaireekeea and old Kaoo, were perfuaded by us to refrain from it; and they recovered amazingly during the fhort time we afterward remained in the ifland. It may be thought extremely difficult to form any probable conjectures refpectiiig the population of iflands, with many parts of which we are but imperfectly ac-2 quainted. quainted. There are, however, two circumftances, that take away much of' this objection; the firft is, that the interior parts of the country are entirely uninhabited; fo that, if the number of the inhabitants along the coaft be known, the whole will be pretty accurately determined. The other is, that there are no towns of any conftder-able fize, the habitations of the natives being pretty equally difperfcd in fmall villages round all their coafls. It is on this ground that I mail venture at a rough calculation of the number of perfons in this group of iilands. The bay of Karakakooa, in Owhyhee, is three miles in extent, and contains four villages of about eighty houfes each; upon an average, in ail three hundred and twenty; befides a number of draggling houfes which may make the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. From the frequent opportunities I had of informing myfelf on this head, I am convinced, that fix perfons to a houfe is a very moderate allowance ; fo that, on this calculation, the country about the bay contains two thoufand one hundred fouls-To thefe may be added fifty families, or three hundred perfons, which I conceive to be nearly the number employed in the interior parts of the country amongft their plantations; making in all two thoufand four hundred. If, therefore, this number be applied to the whole extent of coaft round the iftand, deducting a quarter for the uninhabited parts, it will be found to contain one hundred and fifty thoufand. By the fame mode of calculation, the reft of the iflands will be found to contain the following numbers : Owhyhee, Owhyhee, 150,000 Mowee, 65.400 Woahoo, 60,500 Atooi, - 54) °oo Morotoi, 36,000 Oneeheow, 10,000 Ranai, 20,4x0 Oreehoua, 4,000 Total of inhabitants, 400,000 I am pretty confident, that, in this calculation, I have not exceeded the truth in the total amount. If we compare the numbers fuppofed to be in Owhyhee, with the population of Otahcitc, as fettled by Dr. Forffer, this computation will be found very low. The proportion of coafl, in the latter ifland, is, to that of Owhyhee, only as one to three: the number of inhabitants in Otahcitc he ilatcs to be one hundred and twenty-one thoufand live hundred; though, according to his own principles, it fhould be double that amount. Again, if we compare it with the medium population of the countries in Europe, the proportion will be in favour of the latter nearly as two to one. Notwithstanding the irreparable lofs we fuffered from the fudden refentment and violence of thefe people, yet, in juftice to their general conduct, it mufl be acknowledged, that they are of the mofl mild and affectionate difpofition; equally remote from the extreme levity and ficklcnefs of the Otaheitcans, and the diftant gravity and rcfervc of the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands. They appear to live in the utmoft harmony and friendfhip with one another. The women, who had children, were remarkable for their tender and conftant attention to them ; and the men would often Vol. III. S lend '779; lend their affiftance in thofe domeflic offices, with a willinqr- March. 0 —nefs that docs credit to their feelings. It muff, however, be obferved, that they fall very fhort of the other iftanders, in that befl teft of civilization, the refpect paid to the women. Here they are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the men, but the befl forts of food are tabooed, or forbidden them. They are not allowed to eat pork, turtle, feveral kinds of fifli, and fome fpecics of the plantains; and we were told that a poor girl got a terrible beating, for having eaten, on board our fhip, one of thefe interdicted articles. In their domeflic life, they appear to live almofl entirely by themfelves, and though we did not obferve any inftances of perfonal ill-treatment, yet it was evident they had little regard or attention paid them. The great hofpitality and kindnefs, with which we were received by them, have been already frequently remarked ; and indeed they make the principal part of our tranfactions with them. Whenever we came on fhore, there was a con-ftant flruggle who fhould be mofl forward in making us little prefents, bringing refreshments, or Ihewing fome other mark of their refpect. The old people never failed of receiving us with tears of joy j feemed highly gratified with being allowed to touch us, and were conflantly making com-' parifons between themfelves and us, with the ftrongeft marks of humility. The young women were not lefs kind and engaging, and, till they found, notwithstanding our utmoft endeavours to prevent it, that they had reafon to repent of our acquaintance, attached themfelves to us without the lcaft refervc. In juftice, however, to the fex, it muft be obferved, that thefe ladies were probably all of the lower clafs of the people j people; fori am flrorigly inclined to believe, that, excepting the few, whofe names are mentioned in the courfe of our narrative, we did not fee any woman of rank during our flay amongfl them. Their natural capacity feems, in no refpect, below the common flandard of mankind. Their improvements in agriculture, and the perfection of their manufactures, are certainly adequate to the circumflances of their fituation, and the natural advantages they enjoy. The eager curiofity, with which they' attended the armourer's forge, and the many expedients they had invented, even before we left the iflands, for working the iron they had procured from us, into fuch forms as were befl adapted to their purpofes, were flrong proofs of docility and ingenuity. Our unfortunate friend, Kaneena, poffefTed a degree of judicious curiofity, and a quicknefs of conception, which was rarely met with amongfl thefe people. He was very inquifi-tive after our cufloms and manners; afked after our King; the nature of our government; our numbers; the method of building our fhips ; our houfes ; the produce of our country ; whether we had wars; with whom ; and on what occafion s; and in what manner they were carried on; who was our God j and many other queflions of the fame nature, which indicated an underflanding of great compre-henfion. We met with two inflanccs of perfons difordered in their minds, the one a man at Owhyhee, the other a woman at Oneeheow. It appeared, from the particular attention and refpect paid to them, that the opinion of their being infpired by the Divinity, which obtains among moil of the nations of the Eafl, is alfo received here. S 2 Though Though the cuftom, of eating the bodies of their enemies be not known, by pofitive evidence, to exift in any of the South Sea Iflands, except New Zealand, yet it is extremely probable, that it was originally prevalent in them all. The facrificing human victims, which feems evidently to be a rclickof this horrid practice, ftill obtains univerfally amongft thefe iflanders; and it is eafy to conceive, why the New Zealanders fhould retain the rcpaft, which was probably the laft act of thefe fhocking rites, longer than the reft of their tribe, who wcrcfituated in more mild and fruitful climates. As the inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands certainly bear a nearer refcmblance to thofe of New Zealand, both in their perfons and difpolition, than to any other people of this family, fo it was ftrongly fufpected, by Mr. Anderfon, that, like them, they ftill continue to feaft on human flefh. The evidence, on which he founds this opinion, has been ftated very fully in the tenth chapter of the third book * ; but, as I always entertained great doubts of the juftice of his con-clufions, it may not be improper to take this occafion of mentioning the grounds on which I venture to differ from him. With refpect to the information derived from the natives themfelves, I fhall only obferve, that great pains were taken, by almoft every officer on board, to come at the knowledge of fo curious a circumftance; and that, except in the twTo inftances mentioned by Mr. Anderfon, we found them invariably denying the exiftence of any fuch cuftom amongft them. It muft be allowed, that Mr. Anderfon's knowledge of their language, which was fupcrior to that of any other perfon in either fhip, ought certainly to give his opinion great weight j at the fame time, I muft beg leave to *• See Vol. II. p. 209, 210—214. remark remark, that, being prefent when he examined the man who had the fmall piece of falted flefh wrapped in cloth, it ftruck me very forcibly, that the figha he made ufe of meant nothing more, than that it was intended to be eat, and that it was very pleafant or wholcfome to the flomach. In this opinion I was confirmed, by a circumftance which came to our knowledge, after the death of my worthy and ingenious friend, viz. that almofl every native of thefe iflands carried about with him, either in his calibafh, or wrapped up in a piece of cloth, and tied about his waift, a fmall piece of raw pork, highly falted, which they confidcrcd as a great delicacy, and ufed now and then to tafle of. With refpect to the confufion the young lad was in (for he was not more than iixteen or eighteen years of age), no one could have been furprized at it, who had feen the eager and earneft manner in which Mr. Anderfon queflioned him. The argument drawn from the inflrumcnt made with mark's teeth, and which is nearly of the fame form with thofe ufed at New Zealand for cutting up the bodies of their enemies, is much more difficult to controvert. I believe it to be an undoubted fact, that this knife, if it may be fo called, is never ufed by them in cutting the flefh of other animals. However, as the cullom of offering human facri-ficcs, and of burning the bodies of the flain, is flill prevalent here, it is not improbable, that the ufe of this inftru-nicnt is retained in thofe ceremonies. Upon the whole, I am flrongly inclined to think, and particularly from this lad circumftance, that the horrid practice, in qucftion, has but lately ceafed amongft thefe and other iflands of the South Sea. Omai, when preffed on this fubject, confeffed, that, in the rage and fury of revenge, they would fometimes tear the flefh of their enemies, that were flain, with their teeth ; 5 bur i77> but pofitively denied that they ever eat ir. This was cer- iaich. , _r tainly approaching as near the fact as could be; but, on the other hand, the denial is a ilrong proof that the practice has actually ceafed; fincc in New Zealand, where it flill cxifts, the inhabitants never made the fmalleft fcruple of confefTing it. The inhabitants of thefe iflands differ from thofe of the Friendly Iflcs, in fuffering, almofl univerfally, their beards to grow. There were, indeed, a few, amongfl: whom was the old king, that cut it off entirely; and others that wore it only upon the upper lip. The fame variety, in the manner of wearing the hair, is alfo obfervable here, as among the other iflandcrs of the South Sea; befides which, they have a fafhion, as far as we know, peculiar to themfelves. They cut it clofe on each fide the head, down to the ears, leaving a ridge, of about a fmall hand's breadth, running from the forehead to the neck ; which, when the hair is thick and curling, has the form of the crefl of the ancient helmet. Others wear large quantities of falfe hair, flowing down their backs in long ringlets, like the figure of the inhabitants of Horn Ifland, as feen in Dalrymple's Voyages; and others, again, tic it into a fingle round bunch on the top of the head, almofl as large as the head itfelf; and fome into five or fix diflinct bunches. They daub their hair with a grey clay, mixed with powdered fhells, which they keep in balls, and chew into a kind of foft pane, when they have occafion to make ufe of it. This keeps the hair fmooth ; and, in time, changes it to a pale yellow colour. Both fexes wear necklaces, made of firings of fmall variegated fhells; and an ornament, in the form of the handle of of a cup, about two inches long, and half an inch broad, made of wood, flone, or ivory, finely polifhed, which is hung about the neck, by fine threads of twilled hair, doubled fometimes an hundred fold. Inilead of this ornament, fome of them wear, on their brcafl, a fmall human figure, made of bone, fufpended in the fame manner. The fan, or fly-flap, is alfo an ornament ufed by both fexes. The mofl ordinary kind are made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, tied loofe, in bunches, to the top of a fmooth polifhed handle. The tail-feathers of the cock, and of the tropic-bird, are alfo ufed in the fame manner ; but the mofl valuable arc thofe which have the handle made of the arm or leg bones of an enemy flain in battle, and which are pre-ferved with great care, and handed down, from father to fon, as trophies of ineftimable value. The cuftom of tattoiving the body, they have in common with the reft of the natives of the South Sea Iflands j but it is only at New Zealand, and the Sandwich Iflands, that they tattow the face. There is alfo this difference between the two laft, that, in the former, it is done in elegant fpiral volutes, and in the latter, in ftraight lines, crofting each other at right angles. The hands and arms of the women are alfo very neatly marked, and they have a lingular cuftom amongft them, the meaning of which we could never learn, that of tattowing the tip of the tongues of the females. From fome information we received, relative to the cuftom °f tattoivino^ we were inclined to think, that it is frequently intended as a fign of mourning on the death of a Chief, or any other calamitous event. For we were often told, that 8 fuch 1 I3<5 '779- fuch a particular mark was in memory of fuch a Chief; and March. 1 ' v_,—^ fo of the reft. It may be here, too, obferved, that the lowed clafs are often tat towed with a mark, that diflinguifhcs them as the property of the feveral Chiefs to whom they belong. The drefs of the men generally confifls only of a piece of thick cloth called the mdrdf'about ten or twelve inches broad, which they pafs between the legs, and tie round the waifh This is the common drefs of all ranks of people. Their mats, fome of which are beautifully manufactured, are of various lizes, but modly about five feet long, and four broad. Thefe they throw over their fhoulders, and bring forward before ; but they are feldom ufed, except in time of war, for which purpofe they feem better adapted than for ordinary ufe, being of a thick and cumberfome texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a flone, or any blunt weapon. Their feet arc generally bare, except when they have occafion to travel over the burnt flones, when they fecurc them with a fort of fandal, made of cords, twilled from the fibres of the cocoa-nut. Such is the ordinary drefs of thefe iflandcrs; but they have another, appropriated to their Chiefs, and ufed on ceremonious occafions, confiding of a feathered cloak and helmet, which, in point of beauty and magnificence, is perhaps nearly equal to that of any nation in the world. As this drefs has been already defcribed with great accuracy and minutcnefs, I have only to add, that thefe cloaks are made of different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the wearer, fome of them reaching no lower than the middle, others trailing on the ground. The inferior Chiefs have alfo a fhort cloak, refembling the former, made of the long tail-feathers of the cock, the tropic and man of war birds, with a broad border of the fmall red and yellow t yellow feathers, and a collar of the fame. Others again are made of feathers entirely white, with variegated borders. The helmet has a flrong lining of wicker-work, capable of breaking the blow of any warlike inftrumcnt, and feems evidently defigncd for that purpofe. Thefe feathered dreffes feemed to be exceedingly fcarcc, appropriated to perfons of the highcfl rank, and worn by the men only. During the whole time we lay in Karakakooa Bay, we never faw them ufed but on three occafions; in the curious ceremony of Terreeoboo's firft vifit to the fhips ; by fome Chiefs, who were feen among the crowd on fhore, when Captain Cook was killed ; and, afterward, when Eappo brought his bones to us. The exact: refcmblance between this habit, and rhe cloak and helmet formerly worn by the Spaniards, was too linking not to excite our curiofity to inquire, whether there were any probable grounds for fuppofing it to have been borrowed from them. After exerting every means in our power, of obtaining information on this fubject, we found that they had no immediate knowledge of any other nation whatever; nor any tradition remaining among them of thefe iflands having been ever vifited before by fuch fhips as ours. But notwithlfanding the remit of thefe inquiries, the uncommon form of this habit appears to me a fufficient proof of its European origin; efpecially when added to another circumftance, that it is a lingular deviation from the general refemblance in drefs, which prevails amongft all the branches of this tribe, difperfed through the South Sea. We were driven indeed, by this conclufion, to a fuppofition of the fhipwreck of fome Buccaneer, or Spanifh fhip, in the neighbourhood of thefe iflands. But when it is recol-Vol. III. T lected, Mareh k&ed, mat the courfe of the Spanifli trade from Acapulco ^—to the Manillas, is but a few degrees to the Southward of the Sandwich Iflands, in their pafTage out, and to the Northward, on their return, this fuppoution will not appear in the leaf! improbable. The common drefs of the women bears a clofe refem-blance to that of the men. They wrap round the waifl a piece of cloth, that reaches half way down the thighs ; and fometimes, in the cool of the evening, they appeared with loofe pieces of fine cloth thrown over their fhoulders, like the women of Otaheite. The pan is another drefs very frequently worn by the younger part of the fex. It is made of the thinnefl and finefl fort of cloth, wrapt feveral times round the waifl, and defcending to the leg; fo as to have exactly the appearance of a full fhort petticoat. Their hair is cut fhort behind, and turned up before, as is the fafhion among the Otaheiteans and New Zealanders ; all of whom differ, in this refpect, from the women of the Friendly Iflands, who wear their hair long. We faw, indeed, one woman in Karakakooa Bay, whofe hair was arranged in a very lingular manner -r it was turned up behind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, fo as to form a fort of fhade to the face, like a fmall bonnet. Their necklaces are made of fhells, or of a hard, mining, red berry. Befides which, they wear wreaths of dried flowers of the Indian mallow j and another beautiful ornament, called trait, which is generally put about the neck, but is fometimes tied like a garland round the hair, and fometimes worn in both thefe ways at once, as may be feen in the print of the woman of the Sandwich Iflands. It i3 a ruff of the thick- ' nefs of a finger, made, in a curious manner, of exceedingly fmali fmall feathers, woven fo clofe together as to form a furface as fmooth as that of the richefl velvet. The ground was generally of a red colour, with alternate circles of green, yellow, and black. Their bracelets, which were alfo of great variety, and very peculiar kinds, have been already defcribed. At Atooi, fome of the women wore little figures of the turtle, neatly formed of wood or ivory, tied on their fingers in the manner we wear rings. Why this animal is thus particularly diflinguimed, I leave to the conjectures of the curious. There is alfo an ornament made of Ihells, faflened in rows on a ground of flrong netting, fo as to ilrike each other, when in motion ; which both men and women, when they dance, tie eithet round the arm or the ankle, or below the knee. Inflead of fhells, they fometimes make ufe of dogs teeth, and a hard red berry, refembling that of the holly. & There remains to be mentioned another ornament (if fuch it may be called), the figure of which may be better conceived from the annexed print, than any written defcrip-' tion. It is a kind of mafk, made of a large gourd, with holes cut in it for the eyes and nofe. The top was ftuck full of fmall green twigs, which, at a diflance, had the appearance of an elegant waving plume; and from the lower part hung narrow flripes of cloth, refembling a beard. We never faw thefe mafks worn but twice, and both times by a number of people together in a canoe, who came to the fide of the fhip, laughing and drolling, with an air of mafquerad-ing. Whether they may not likewife be ufed as a defence for the head againfl flones, for which they feem befl de-figned, or in fome of their public games, or be merely in- T 2 tended Jgjgj tended for the purpofes of mummery, we could never in-}« y * form ourfelves. It has already been remarked, in a few inuances, that the natives of the Sandwich Iflands approach nearer to the New Zealanders, in their manners and cuftoms, than to either of their lefs diftant neighbours of the Society or friendly Iflands. This is in nothing more obfervable, than in their method of living together in fmall towns or villages, containing from about one hundred to two hundred houfes, built pretty clofe together, without any order, and having a winding path leading through them. They are generally flanked, toward the fea, with loofe detached walls, which probably are meant both for the purpofes of inciter and defence. The figure of their houfes has been already defcribed. They are of different fizes, from eighteen feet by twelve, to forty-five by twenty-four. There are fome of a larger kind ; being lifty feet long and thirty broad, and quite open at one end. Thefe, they told us, were defigned for travellers or ftrangers, who were only making a fhori: flay. In addition to the furniture of their houfes, which has been accurately defcribed by Captain Cook, I have only to add, that at one end are mats on which they fleep, with wooden pillows, or fleeping flools, exactly like thofe of the Chinefe. Some of the better fort of houfes have a courtyard before them, neatly railed in, with fmaller houfes built round it, for their fervants. In this area they generally eat, and fit during the day-time. In the fides of the hills, and among the fteep rocks, we alfo obferved feveral holes or caves, which appeared to be inhabited ; but as the entrance was defended with wicker-work* and we alfo found, in the- only only one that was vifited, a flone fence running acrofs it J779; , • i r March. within, we imagine they are principally defigned for i_-y-places of retreat, in cafe of an attack from an enemy. The food of the lower clafs of people confifls principally of fifh, and vegetables; fuch as yams, fweet-potatoes, tarrow, plantains, fugar-canes, and bread-fruit. To thefe, the people of a higher rank add the flefh of hogs and dogs, dreffed in the fame manner as at the Society Iflands. They alfo eat fowls of the fame domeflic kind with ours ; but they are neither plentiful, nor much eflcemed by them. It is remarked by Captain Cook, that the bread-fruit and yams appeared fcarce amongfl them, and were reckoned great rarities. We found this not to be the cafe on our fecond vifit; and it is therefore mod probable, that, as thefe vegetables wcie generally planted in the interior parts of the country, the natives had not had time to bring them down to us, daring the fhort flay we .made in Wymoa Bay. Their fifh they fait, and preferve in gourd-fhells ; not, as we at firft imagined, for the purpofe of providing againfl any temporary fcarcity, but from the preference they give to falted meats. For we alfo found, that the Erees ufed to pickle pieces of pork in the fame manner, and efteemed i: a greac delicacy. Their cookery is exactly of the fame fort with that already defcribed, in the accounts that have been publifhed of the other South Sea iflands ; and though Captain Cook complains of the fournefs of their tarrow puddings, yet, in juftice to the many excellent meals they afforded us in Karakakooa Bay, I muft be permitted to refcue them from thia general cenfure. and to declare, that I never eat better even in the Friendly Iflands* It is however remarkable, that they had. net not got the art of preferving the bread-fruit, and making the four pafte of it called Maihee, as at the Society Iftands ; and it was fome fatisfaction to us, in return for their great kind-nefs and hofpitality, to have it in our power to teach them this ufeful fecret. They are exceedingly cleanly at their meals; and their mode of dreiiing both their animal and vegetable food, was univerfally allowed to be greatly fupe-rior to ours. The Chiefs conftantly begin their meal with a doze of the extract of pepper-root, brewed after the ufual manner. The women eat apart from the men, and are tabooed, or forbidden, as has been already mentioned, the ufe of pork, turtle, .and particular kinds of plantains. However, they would eat pork with us in private ; but we could never prevail upon them to touch the two laft articles. The way of fpending their time appears to be very fimple, and to admit of little variety. They rife with the fun ; and, after enjoying the cool of the evening, retire to reft a few hours after fun-fet. The making of canoes and mats forms the occupations of the Erees; the women are employed in manufacturing cloth; and the* Toivtnvs are principally engaged in the plantations and fiuhing. Their idle hours are filled up with various amufements. Their young men and women are fond of dancing; and, on more folemn occa-fions, they have boxing and wreftling matches, after the manner of the Friendly Iftands; though, in all thefc re-fpects, they are much inferior to the latter. Their dances have a much nearer refemblance to thofe of the New Zealande,rs, thar* of.the Otaheiteans oy Friendly iftanders. They are prefaced with a flow, folemn fong, in which all the party join, moving their legs, and gently linking their breads, in a manner, and with attitudes, that are perfectly perfectly eafy and graceful; and fo far they are the fame with the dances of the Society Iflands. When this has laded about ten minutes, both the tune and the motions gradually quicken, and end only by their inability to fupport the fatigue; which part of the performance is the exact counter-part of that of the New Zealanders; and (as it is among them) the perfon who ufes the mod violent action, and holds out the longed, is applauded as the bed dancer. It is to be obferved, that, in this dance, the women only take a part, and that the dancing of the men is nearly of the fame kind with what we faw of the fmall parties at the Friendly Iflands; and which may, perhaps, with more propriety, be called the accompaniment of fongs, with correfponding and graceful motions of the whole body. Yet as we were fpectators of boxing exhibitions, of the fame kind with thofe we Were entertained with at the Friendly Iflands, it is probable that they had likewife their grand ceremonious dances, in which numbers of both fexes aflifled. Their mufic is alfo of a ruder kind, having neither flutes nor reeds, nor indrumems of any other fort, that we faw3 except drums of various fizes. But their fongs, which they fung in parts *, and accompany with a gentle motion of the arms, * As this circumftance, of their fmging in parts, has been much doubted by Perfons eminently flailed in mufic, and would be exceedingly curious if it was clearly afcertuined, it is to be lamented that it cannot be more pofitively authenticated. Captain Burney, and Captain Phillips of the Marines, who both have a tolerable knowledge of mulic, have given it as their opinion, that they did fing in parts j that 15 to fay, that they fung together in different notes, which formed a pleafing harmony. Thefe gentlemen have fully teftified, that the Friendly Ifianders undoubtedly ftudied their performances before they were exhibited in public ; that they had an *ka, of different notes being ufeful in harmony; and alfo, that they rehearfed their 1779- arms, in the fame manner as the Friendly Iflanders, had a March. * —v-» very pleafing effect:. It is very remarkable, that the people of thefe iflands are great gamblers. They have a game very much like our draughts; but, if one may judge from the number of fquares, it is much more intricate. The board is about two feet long, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight fquares, of which there are fourteen in a row, and they their compofitions in private, and threw out the inferior voices, before they ventured to appear before thofe who were fuppofed to be judges of their fkill in mufic. Iti their regular concerts, each man had a bamboo, which was of a different length, and gave a different tone: thefe they beat againfl the ground, and each performer, aififted by the note given by this inftrument, repeated the fame note, accompanying it by words, by which means it was rendered fometimes fliort, and fometimes long. In this manner, they fung in chorus, and not only produced octaves to each other, according to their different fpecies of voice, but fell on concords, fuch as were not difagreeable to the ear. Now, to overturn this fact, by the reafoning of perfons who did not hear thefe performances, is rather an arduous tafk. And, yet, there is great improbability that any uncivilized people fhould, by accident, arrive at this degree of perfection in the art of mufic, which we imagine can onlybe attained by dint of fhidy, and knowledge of the fyftem and theory upon which mufical compofition is founded. Such miferable jargon as our country Pfalm-fingers praclife, which may be juftly deemed the lowed clafs of counterpoint, or finging in feveral paits, cannot be acquired in the coarfe manner in which it is performed in the churches, without confidcrable time and practice. It is, therefore, fcarcely credible, that a people, femi-barbarous, mould naturally arrive at any perfection in that art, which it is much doubted whether the Greeks and Romans, with all their refinements in mufic, ever attained, and which the Chinefe, who have been longer civilized than any people on the globe, have not yet found out. If Captain Burney (who, by the teftimony of his father, perhaps the greateft mufical theoriil of this or any other age, was able to have done it) had written down, in European notes, the concords that thefe people fung ; and if thefe concords had been inch as European ears could tolerate, there would have been no longer doubt of the fact : but, as it is, it would, in my opinion, be a rafh judgment to venture to urlirm that they did or did not underftand counterpoint 5 and therefore I fear that this curious matter mull be confidered as ftill remaining undecided. 2 make make ufe of black and white pebbles, which they move from fquare to fquare. There is another game, which confills in hiding a flone under a piece of cloth, which one of the parties fpreads out, and rumples in fuch a manner, that the place where the flone lies is difficult to be didinguifhed. The antagonifl, with a flick, then flrikes the part of the cloth where he imagines the flone to be; and as the chances are, upon the whole, confiderably againft his hitting it, odds, of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the fkill of the parties, are laid on the fide of him who hides. Befides thefe games, they frequently amufe themfelves with racing-matches between the boys and girls; and here again they wager with great fpirit. I faw a man in a mofl violent rage, tearing his hair, and beating his bread, after lofing three hatchets at one of thefe races, which he had jud before purchafed from us, with half his fubdancc. Swimming is not only a neceffary art, in which both their men and women are more expert than any people we had hitherto feen, but a favourite diverfion amongd them. One particular mode, in which they fometimes amufed themfelves with this exercife, in Karakakooa Bay, appeared to us mod perilous and extraordinary, and well deferving a didinct relation. The furf, which breaks on the coad round the bay, extends to the didance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the fhore, within which fpace, the furges of the fea, accumulating from the fhallownefs of the water, are dafhed againd the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from dormy weather, or any extraordinary fwell at fea, the impetuofity of the furf is increafed to its utmod height, they Vol. HI. U choofe choofe that time for this amufcment, which is performed in the following, manner: Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, fet out together from the fhore. The firft wave they meet, they plunge under, and fuffering it to roll over them, rife again beyond it, and make the bell of their way, by fwimming, out into the fea. The fecond wave is encountered in the fame manner with the firft; the great difficulty confiding in feizing the proper moment of diving under it, which, if miffed, the perfon is caught by the furf, and driven back again with great violence; and all his dexterity is then required to prevent himfelf from being dallied againd the rocks. As foon as they have gained, by thefe repeated efforts, the fmooth water beyond the furf, they lay themfelves at length on their board, and prepare for their return, As the furf conlids of a number of waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the others* and to flow higher on the fhore, the red breaking in the intermediate fpacc, their fird object is to place themfelves on the fummit of the largcd furge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity toward the fhore. If by midake they fhould place themfelves on one .of the fmaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or fhould not be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the fwell, they are left expofed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are obliged again to dive and regain the place, from which they fet out. Thofe who fucceed in their object of reaching the fhore, have dill the greateft danger to encounter. The coad being guarded by a chain of rocks, with, here and there, a fmall opening between them, they are obliged to deer their board through one of thefe*, or, in cafe of failure, to quit it, before they reach the 4 rocks, rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the befl of their way back again. This is reckoned very difgraceful, and is alio attended with the lofs of the board, which I have often feen, with great terror, dafhed to pieces, at the very moment the iflander quitted it. The boldnefs and ad-drefs, with which we faw them perform thefe difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altogether aflonifhing, and is fcarcely to be credited *. An accident, of which I was a near fpectator, fhews at how early a period they are fo far familiarized to the water, as both to lofe all fears of it, and to fet its dangers at defiance. A canoe being overfet, in which was a woman with her children, one of them an infant, who, I am convinced, was not more than four years old, feemed highly delighted with what had happened, fwimming about at its eafe, and playing a hundred tricks, till the canoe was put to rights again. Befides the amufcments I have already mentioned, the young children have one, which was much played at, and fhewcd no fmall degree of dexterity. They take a fhort flick, with a peg fharpencd at both ends, running through one extremity of it, and extending about an inch on each fide; and throwing up a ball made of green leaves moulded together, and fecured with twine, they catch it on the point of the peg ; and immediately throwing it up again from the peg, they turn the flick round, and thus keep catching it on each peg alternately, without miffing it, for a confider-ablc time. They are not lefs expert at another game of the fame nature, tolling up in the air, and catching, in their * An amufement, fomewhat fimilar to this, at Otahcitc, has been defcribed, Vol. II. p. I5o. U 2 turns, March turns» a number of thefe balls ; fo that we frequently faw u. -v~—j little children thus keep in motion five at a time. With this latter play the young people likewife divert themfelves at the Friendly Iflands. The great refernblance which prevails in the mode of agriculture and navigation, amongfl all the inhabitants of the South Sea iflands, leaves me very little to add on thofe heads. Captain Cook has already defcribed the figure of the canoes wc faw at Atooi. Thofe of the other iflands were prccifely the fame j and the largefl we faw was a double canoe belonging to Terreeoboo, which meafured feventy feet in length, three and a half in depth, and twelve in breadth ; and each was hollowed out of one tree. The progrefs they have made in fculpture, their fkill in painting cloth, and their manufacturing of mats, have been all particularly defcribed. The mofl curious fpecimens of the former, which we faw during our fecond vifit, are the bowls, in which the Chiefs drink ava. Thefe are ufually about eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and beautifully polifhed. They are fupported by three, and fometimes four fmall human figures, in various attitudes. Some of them refl on the hands of their fupporters, extended over the head; others on the head and hands ; and fome on the fhoulders. The figures, I am told, are accurately proportioned, and neatly finifhed, and even the anatomy of the mufcles, in fupporting the weight, well expreffed. Their cloth is made of the fame materials, and in the fame manner, as at the Friendly and Society Iflands. That -which is defigned to be painted, is of a thick and flrong texture, feveral folds being beat and incorporated together; I after after which it is cut in breadths, about two or three feet ^779^ wide, arid is painted in a variety of patterns, with a cornpre- w.—1-> henfivenefs and regularity of defign, that befpeaks infinite tafte and fancy. The exactnefs with which the moif intricate patterns are continued, is the more furprizing, when we confider, that they have no flamps, and that the whole is done by the eye, with pieces of bamboo cane dipped in paint; the hand being fupported by another piece of the cane, in the manner practifed by our painters. Their colours are extracted from the fame berries, and other vegetable fubflances, as at Otaheite, which have been already defcribed by former voyagers. The bufinefs of painting belongs entirely to the women, and is called kipparee; and it is remarkable, that they always gave the fame name to our writing. The young women would often take the pen out of our hands, and fhew us, that they knew the ufe of it as well as we did ; at the fame time telling us, that our pens were not fo good as theirs. They looked upon a fheet of written paper, as a piece of cloth flriped after the fafhion of our country, and it was not without the utmoft difficulty, that we could make them underff and, that our figures had a meaning in them which theirs had not. Their mats are made of the leaves of the pandanus; and, as well as their cloths, are beautifully worked in a variety of patterns, and flained of different colours. Some have a ground of pale green, fpotted with fquares, orromboids, of red ; others are of a flraw colour, fpotted with green ; and others are worked with beautiful flripes, either in flraight or waving lines of red and brown. In this article of manufacture, whether we regard the ftrength, finenefs, or beauty, they certainly excel the whole world. Their Their fifliing-hooks are made of mother-of-pearl, bonej or wood, pointed and barbed with fmall bones, or t.ortoi fe-fliell. They are of various fizcs and forms ; bu; the moft common are about two or three inches long, and made in the fhape of a fmall fifh, which ferves as a bait, having a bunch of feathers tied to the head or tail. Thofe with which they fifh for fharks, are of a very large fiae, bemg generally fix or eight inches long. Confidering the mare-rials of which thefe hooks are made, their flrength and neatnefs are really aflonifiring ; and in fact we found them, upon trial, much fuperior to our own. The line which they ufe for fifhing, for making nets, and for other domeflic purpofes, is of different degrees of fine-nefs, and is made of the bark of the touta, or cloth tree, neatly and evenly twilled, in the fame manner as our common twine; and may be continued to any length. They have a finer fort, made of the bark of a fmall fhrub called areemah; and the fincfl is made of human hair; but this laft is chiefly ufed for things of ornament. They alfo make cordage of a flronger kind, for the rigging of their canoes, from the fibrous coatings of the cocoa-nuts. Some of this we purchafed for our own ufe, and found it well adapted to the fmaller kinds of running rigging. They likewife make another fort of cordage, which is flat, and exceedingly flrong, and ufed principally in lafhing the roofing of their houfes, or whatever they wifh to fallen tight together. This laft is not twilled like the former forts, but is made of the fibrous firings of the cocoa-nut's coat, plaited with the fingers, in the manner our failors make their points for the reefing of fails. The gourds, which grow to fo enormous a fize, that fome of them are capable of containing from ten to twelve gallons, Ions, are applied to all manner of domeflic purpofes; and in order to fie them the better to their refpective ufes, they have the ingenuity to give them different forms, by tying bandages round them during their growth. Thus, fome of them are of a long, cylindrical form, as belt adapted to contain their fifhing-tackle; others are of a difh form, and thefe ferve to hold their fait, and falted provifions, their puddings, vegetables, 8tc. which two forts have neat clofe covers, made likewife of the gourd; others again are exactly the fhape of a bottle with a long neck, and in thefe they keep their water. They have likewife a method of ■fcoring them with a heated inftrument, fo as to give them the appearance of being painted, in a variety of neat and elegant defigns. Amongft their arts, we muft not forget that of making fait, with which we were amply fupplied, during our flay ac thefe iflands, and which was perfectly good of its kind. Their falt-pana are made of earth, lined with clay ; being generally fix or eight feet fquare, and about eight inches deep. They are railed upon a bank of flones near the high water mark, from whence the fait water is conducted to the foot of them, in fmall trenches, out of which they are filled, and the fun quickly performs the neceffary procefs of evaporation. The fait wc procured at Atooi and Oneeheow, on our firft vifit, was of a brown and dirty fort; but that which we afterward got in Karakakooa Bay, was white, and of a moft excellent quality, and in great abundance. Besides the quantity we ufed in faking pork, we filled all our empty calks, amounting to fixtcen ptmcheons, in the Refolution only. Their inflruments of war are fpears; daggers, called pa-koo$ti clubs; and flings. The fpears are of two forts, and; made m\779' made of a hard folid wood, which has much the appear- March. . ■ ■ _ rr i,..-y- -j ance of mahogany. One fort is from fix to eight feet in length, finely polifhed, and gradually increafing in thicknefs from the extremity till within about half a foot of the point, which tapers fuddenly, and is furnifhed with four or fix rows of barbs. It is not improbable, that thefe might be ufed in the way of darts. The other fort, with which we • faw the warriors at Owhyhee and Atooi moilly armed, are twelve or fifteen feet long, and, inflead of being barbed, terminate toward the point, like their daggers. The dagger, or fahooa, is made of heavy black wood, refembling ebony. Its length is from one to two feet, with a firing paffmg through the handle, for the purpofe of fuf-pending it to the arm. For its fhape, I muft refer the reader to figure 6, in Plate LXVII. The clubs are made indifferently of feveral forts of wood. They are of rude workmanfhip, and of a variety of fhapes and fizes. The flings have nothing fingular about them ; and in no refpect differ from our common flings, except that the flone is lodged on a piece of matting inflead of leather. CHAP. CHAP. VIII. General Account of the Sandwich Iflands continued.—■ Government.—People divided into three Claffes.—Power of Eree-taboo.—Genealogy of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee.—Power of the Chiefs.—State of the inferior Clafs.—Punifljment of Crimes.—Religion.—Society of Priefls.—The Orono.—Their Idols.— Songs chanted by the Chiefs, before they drink Ava.—Human Sacrifices. *—Cuflom of knocking out the Fore-teeth.—Notions with regard to a future State. — Marriages. — Remarkable Inflance of Jealoufy.—Funeral Rites. THE people of thefe iflands are manifeftly divided ^77^ into three clafles. The firft are the Erees, or Chiefs, of \—-„—~> each diffrict; one of whom is fuperior to the reft, and is called at Owhyhee Eree-taboo, and Eree Moee. By the firft of thefe words they exprefs his abfolutc authority; and by the latter, that all are obliged to proftratc themfelves (or put themfelves to fleep, as the word fignifies) in hi? prefence. The fecond clafs are thofe who appear to enjoy a right of property, without authority. The third are the towtows, or fervants, who have neither rank nor property. It is not poffible to give any thing like a fyftematical account of the fubordination of thefe claffcs to each other, without departing from that ftrict veracity, which, in works of this nature, is more fatisfactory than conjectures, however ingenious. I will, therefore, content myfelf with relating fuch facts, as we were witnefles to ourfelvcs, and fuch Vol. III. X accounts i779« accounts as we thought could be depended upon; and fhall — ~.\_r leave the reader to form, from them, his own ideas of the nature of their government. The great power and high rank of Terreeoboo, the Eree-taboo of Owhyhee, was very evident, from the manner in which he was received at Karakakooa, on his firft arrival. All the natives were feen proftrated at the entrance of their houfes; and the canoes, for two days before, were tabooed, or forbidden to go out, till he took off the reftraint. He was, at this time, juft returned from Mowee, for the pof-feflion of which he was contending in favour of his fon Tcewarro, who had married the daughter and only child of the late king of that ifland, againfl Tahecterree, his furviving brother. He was attended, in this expedition, by many of his warriors; but whether their fervice was voluntary, or the condition on which they hold their rank and property, we could not learn. That he collects tribute from the fubordinate Chiefs, we had a very ftriking proof in the inftance of Kaoo, which has been already related in our tranfactions of the 2d and 3d of February. 1 have before mentioned, that the two moft powerful Chiefs of thefe iflands are Terreeoboo of Owhyhee, and Perreeoran-nee of Woahoo; the reft of the fmallcr iilcs being fubject to one or other of thefe; Mowee, and its dependencies, being, at this time, claimed, as we have juft obferved, by Terreeoboo for Tcewarro his fon and intended fucceffor; Atooi and Oneeheow being governed by the grandfons of Perreeorannee. The following genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee kings, which 1 collected from the priefts, during our rcfi-. dence at the Morai in Karakakooa Bay, contains all the in-2 formation formation I could procure relative to the political hiflory of thefe iflands. This account reaches to four Chiefs, predeceubrs of the prefent; all of whom they reprefent to have lived to an old age. Their names and fuccefhons are as follow: Firft, Poorahoo Awhykaia was king of Owhyhee, and had an only fon, called Neerooagooa. At this time Mowee was governed by Mokoakca j who had alfo an only fon, named I', pikaneeou. Secondly, Neerooagooa had three fons, the cldcft named Kahavee; and Papikaneeou, of the Mowee race, had an only • fon, named Kaowreeka. Thirdly, Kahavee had an only fon, Kayenewce a mum-mow ; and Kaowreeka, the Mowee king, had two fons, Maiha maiha, and Taheeterree; the latter of whom is now, by one party, acknowledged Chief of Mowee. Fourthly, Kayenewce a mum mow had two fons, Terreeoboo and Kaihooa ; and Maiha maiha, king of Mowee, had no fon, but left a daughter, called Roaho. Fifthly, Terreeoboo, the prefent king of Owhyhee, had a fon named Tcewarro, by Rora-rora, the widow of Maiha maiha, late king of Mowee ; and this fon has married Roaho, his half filter, in whofe right he claims Mowee and its appendages. Taheeterree, the brother of the late king, fupported by a considerable party, who were not willing that the poffeflions fhould go into another family, took up arms, and oppofed the rights of his niece. When we were firfl off Mowee, Terreeoboo was there with his warriors to fupport the claims of his wife, his fon, and X 2 daughter- daughter-in-law, and had fought a battle with the oppofite party, in which Taheeterree was worried. We afterward underflood, that matters had been compromised, and that Taheeterree is to have the polfellion of the three neighbouring iflands during his life ; that Teewarro is acknowledged the Chief of Mowee, and will alfo fucceed to the kingdom of Owhyhee on the death of Terreeoboo; and alfo to the fovercignty of the three iflands, contiguous to Mowee, on the death of Taheeterree. Teewarro has been lately married to his half After; and fhould he die without iffue, the government of thefe iflands defcends to Maiha maiha, whom we have often had occafion to mention, he being the fon of Kaihooa, the deceafed brother of Terreeoboo. Should he alfo die without iffue, they could not tell who would fucceed ; for the two youngeft fons of Terreeoboo, one of whom he appears to be exceedingly fond of, being born of a woman of no rank, would, from this circumftance, be debarred all right of fucceflion. We had not an opportunity of feeing queen Rora-rora, whom Terreeoboo had left behind at Mowee; but we have already had occafion to take notice, that he was accompanied by Kanee Kaberaia, the mother of the two youths, to whom he was very much attached. From this account of the genealogy of the Owhyhee and Mowee monarchs, it is pretty clear that the government i3 hereditary; which alfo makes it very probable, that the inferior titles, and property itfelf, defcend in the fame courfe. With regard to Perreeorannee, we could only learn, that ha is an Erce Taboo ; that he. was invading the poffeflion of Taheeterree, but on what pretence we were not informed * and that his grandfons governed the iflands to leeward. The power of the Erees over the inferior claffes of people appears to be very abfolute. Many inftances of this occurred curred daily during our flay amongfl them, and have been already related. The people, on the other hand, pay them «--*—-» the mod implicit obedience; and this flate of fervility has manifeflly had a great effect in debafmg both their minds and bodies. It is, however, remarkable, that the Chiefs were never guilty, as far at leafl as came within my knowledge, of any acts of cruelty or injuftice, or even of infolent behaviour toward them ; though, at the fame time, they exercifed their power over one another in the mofl haughty and oppreflive manner. Of this I fhall give two inflances. A Chief of the lower order had behaved with great civility to the mafler of the fhip, when he went to examine Karakakooa bay, the day before the fhip firft arrived there ; and, in return, I afterward carried him on board, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who invited him to dine with us. While we were at table, Pareea entered, whofe face but too plainly manifeftcd his indignation, at feeing our gueft in fo honourable a fituation. He immediately feized him by the hair of the head, and was proceeding to drag him out of the cabin, when the Captain interfered ; and, after a great deal of altercation, all the indulgence we could obtain, without coming to a quarrel with Pareea, was, that our gueft fhould be fuffered to remain, being feated upon the floor, whilft Pareea filled his place at the table. At another time, when Terreeoboo firft came on board the Refolution, Mai-ha-maiha, who attended him, finding Pareea on deck, turned him out of the fhip in the moft ignominious manner ; and yet Pareea, we certainly knew, to be a man of the firft confequence. How far the property of the lower clafs is fecured againft the rapacity and defpotifm of the great Chiefs, I cannot fay. but it fhould feem, that it is fufflciently protected againft 3 private March Prrvate theft, or mutual depredation. For not only their i-*-~-> plantations, which are fpread over the whole country, but alfo their houfes, their hogs, and their cloth, were left unguarded, without the fmalleft apprehenfions. I have already remarked, that they not only feparate their poffef-fions by wails in the plain country, but that, in the woods likewife, wherever the horfe-plantains grow, they make ufe of fmall white flags, in the fame manner, and for the fame purpofe of discriminating property, as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. All which circumflances, if vhey do not amount to proofs, are flrong indications that the power of the Chiefs, where property is concerned, is not arbitrary; but, at leafl, fo far circumfcribed and afcertained, as to make it worth the while for the inferior orders to cultivate the foil, and to occupy their pofleflions diftinct from each other. With reject to the administration of juftice, all the information we could collect was very imperfect and confined. Whenever any of the loweil clafs of people had a quarrel amongft themfelves, the matter in difpute was referred to the decilion of fome Chief, probably the Chief of the diftrict, or the perfon to whom they appertained. If an inferior Chief had given caufe of offence to one of a higher rank, the feelings of the latter at the moment feemed the only meafure of his punifhment. If he had the good fortune to efcape the firft tranfpons of his fuperior's rage, he generally found means, through the mediation of fome third perfon, to compound for his crime by a part or the whole of his property and effects. Thefe were the only facts that came to our knowledge on this head. The religion of thefe people refembles,in moft of its principal features, that of the Society and Friendly Iflands. Their Their Morals, their Whattas, their idols, their Sacrifices, and their facred fongs, all of which they have in common with each other, are convincing proofs, that their religious notions are derived from the fame fource. In the length and number of their ceremonies, this branch indeed far exceeds the reft; and, though in all thefe countries, there is a certain clafs of men, to whofe care the performance of their religious rites is committed ; yet we had never met with a regular fociety of priefts, till we difcovered the cloifters of Kakooa in Karakakooa Bay. The head of this order was called Orono ; a title which we imagined to imply fomething highly facred, and which, in the perfon of Omeeah, was honoured almofl to adoration. It is probable, that the privilege of entering into this order (at leafl as to the principal offices in it), is limited to certain families. Omeeah, the Orono, was the fon of Kaoo, and the uncle of Kaireekeea; which laft prefided, during the abfence of his grandfather, in all religious ceremonies at the Morai. It was alfo remarked, that the child of Omeeah, an only fon, about five years old, was never furfered to appear without a number of attendants, and fuch other marks of care and folici-tude, as we faw no other like inftance of. This feemed to indicate, that his life was an object of the greateft moment, and that he was deftined to fucceed to the high rank of his father. It has been mentioned, that the title of Orono, with all its honours, was given to Captain Cook ; and it is alfo certain, that they regarded us, generally, as a race of people fupe-rior to themfelves ; and ufed often to fay, that great Eatooa dwelled in our country. The little image, which we have before defcribed, as the favourite idol on the Moral in Karakakooa Bay, they call Koonooraekaiee, and faid it was was Terreeoboo^ God; and that he alfo refided amongft lis. There are found an infinite variety of thefe images, both on the Morals, and within and without their houfes, to which they give different names; but it foon became obvious to us in how little eftimation they were held, from their frequent expreffions of contempt of them, and from their even offering them to fale for trifles. At the fame time, there feldom failed to be fome one particular figure in favour, to which, whilft this preference lafted, all their adoration was addrefled. This confifted in arraying it in red cloth; beating their drums, and finging hymns before it; laying bunches of red feathers, and different forts of vegetables, at its feet; and expofing a pig, or a dog, to rot on the whatta that flood near it. In a bay to the Southward of Karakakooa, a party of our gentlemen were conducted to a large houfe, in which they found the black figure of a man, refting on his fingers and toes, with his head inclined backward ; the limbs well formed and exactly proportioned, and the whole beautifully polifhed. This figure the natives called Mace; and round it were placed thirteen others of rude and diftorted fhapes, which they faid were the Eatooas of feveral deceafed Chiefs, whofe names they recounted. The place was full of vohattas, on which lay the remains of their offerings. They likewife give a place in their houfes to many ludicrous and fome obfeene idols, like the Priapus of the ancients. It hath been remarked, by former voyagers, that both among the Society and Friendly Iflandcrs, an adoration is paid to particular birds; and I am led to believe, that the fame cuftom prevails here ; and that, probably, the raven is the the objects of it, from feeing two of thefe birds tame at the M7J9- village of Kakooa, which they told mc were Eatooas; and, '-u-' refuting every thing I offered for them, cautioned me, at the fame time, not to hurt or offend them. Amongft their religious ceremonies, may be reckoned the prayers and offerings made by the priefts before their meals. Whilft the ava is chewing, of which they always drink before they begin their repafl, the perfon of the higheit rank takes the lead in a fort of hymn, in which he is prefently joined by one, two, or more of the company j the reft moving their bodies, and ftriking their hands gently together, in concert with the fingers. When the ava is ready, cups of it are handed about to thofe who do not join in the fong, which they keep in their hands till it is ended j when, uniting in one loud refponfe, they drink off their cup. The performers of the hymn are then ferved with ava, who drink it after a repetition of the fame ceremony; and, if there be prefent one of a very fuperior rank, a cup is, laft of all, prefented to him, which, after chanting fome time alone, and being anfwered by the reft, and pouring a little out on the ground, he drinks off. A piece of the flefh that is dreffed, is next cut off, without any felection of the part of the animal; which, together with fome of the vegetables, being depofited at the foot of the image of the Eatooa, and a hymn chanted, their meal commences. A ceremony of much the fame kind is alfo performed by the Chiefs, whenever they drink ava, between their meals. Human facritices are more frequent here, according to the account of the natives themfelves, than in any other iflands we vifited. Thefe horrid rites arc not only had re-courfe to upon the commencement of war, and preceding Vol. III. y great great battles, and other fignal enterprizes; but the death of any confiderable Chief calls for a facrifice of one or more Toivtoivs, according to his rank; and we were told, that ten men were destined to fuller on the death of Terreeoboo. What may (if any thing poflibly can) leffen, in fome fmall degree, the horror of tins practice, is, that the unhappy victims have not the moft diftant intimation of their fate. Thofe who are fixed upon to fall, are fet upon with clubs wherever they happen to be; and, after being difpatched, are brought dead to the place, where the remainder of the rites are completed. The reader will here call to his remembrance the fkulls of the captives, that had been facri-ficed at the death of fome great Chief, and which were fixed on the rails round the top of the Moral at Kakooa. We got a farther piece of intelligence upon this fubject at the village of Kowrowa j where, on our inquiring into the ufe of a fmall piece of ground, inclofed with a flone fence, we were told that it was an Hercreere, or burying-ground of a Chief; and there, added our informer, pointing to one of the corners, lie the tangata and *waheene taboo, or the man and woman who were facrificed at his funeral. To this clafs of their cuftoms may alfo be referred that of knocking out their fore-teeth. Scarce any of the lower people, and very few of the Chiefs, were feen, who had not loft one or more of them; and we always understood, that this voluntary punishment, like the cutting off the joints of the finger at the Friendly Iflands, was not inflicted on themfelves from the violence of grief, on the death of their friends, but was defigncd as a propitiatory facrifice to the Eatooa, to avert any danger or mifchief to which they might be expofed. 6 We We were able to learn but little of their notions with re- March. gard to a future llatc. Whenever we afked them, whither w— the dead were gone ? we were always anfwered, that the breath, which they appeared to confider as the foul, or immortal part, was gone to the Eatooa; and, on pufhing our inquiries farther, they feemed to defcribe fome particular place, where they imagined the abode of the deccafed to be; but wc could not perceive, that they thought, in this ftate, cither rewards or punifhmcnts awaited them. Having promifed the Pveader, in the firft Chapter, an explanation of what was meant by the word taboo, I fhall, in this place, lay before him the particular inftanccs that fell under our obfervation, of its application and effects. On our inquiring into the reafons of the interdiction of all in* tcrcourfc between us and the natives, the day preceding the arrival of Terreeoboo, wTe were told, that the Bay was tabooed. The fame reftriction took place, at our rcqucft, the day we interred the bones of Captain Cook. In thefe two inflances the natives paid the moft implicit and fcrupulous obedience ; but whether on any religious principle, or merely in deference to the civil authority of their Chiefs, I cannot determine. When the ground near our obfervatories, and the place where our malts lay, were tabooed, by flicking fmall wands round them, this operated in a manner not lefs efficacious. But though this mode of confecration was performed by the priefts only, yet flill, as the men ventured to come within the fpace, when invited by us, it fhould fecm, that they were under no religious apprehensions ; and that their obedience was limited to our rcfufal only. The women could, by no means, be induced to come near us ; but this was probably on account of the Morai adjoining; which they are prohibited, at all times, and in all the Y 2 iflands M779j iflands of thofe feas, from approaching. Mention hath been *—-v-—i already made, that women are always tabooed, or forbidden, to eat certain kind of meats. We alfo frequently faw feveral at their meals, who had the meat put into their mouths by others ; and on our afking the reafon of this Angularity, were told, that they were tabooed, or forbidden, to feed themfelves. This prohibition, we underflood, was always laid on them, after they had affifled at any funeral, or touched a dead body, and alfo on other occaftons. It is neceffary to obferve, that, on thefe occaftons, they apply the word taboo indifferently both to perfons and things* Thus they fay, the natives were tabooed, or the bay was tabooed, and fo of the reft. This word is alfo ufed to exprefs any thing facred, or eminent, or devoted. Thus the king of Owhyhee was called Eree-taboo ; a human victim, tangata taboo ; and, in the fame manner, among the Friendly lflanders, Tonga, the ifland where the king refides, is named Tonga-taboo. Concerning their marriages, I can afford the reader little farther fatisfaction, than informing him, that fuch a relation or compact exifts amongft them. I have already had occafion to mention, that at the time Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora Rora at Mowee, he was attended by another woman, by whom he had children, and to whom he was very much attached \ but how far polygamy, properly fpeaking, is allowed, or how far it is mixed with concubinage, either with refpect to the king, the Chiefs, or among the inferior orders, too few facts came to our knowledge to juftify any conclufions. It hath alfo been obferved, that, except Kainee Kabarcea, and the wife of the Orono, with three women whom I mall have occafion hereafter to mention, we never Caw any female of high rank. From what I had an opportunity tunity of obferving of the domettic concerns of the lowed clafs, the houfe feemed to be under the direction of one man and woman, and the children in the like ftate of fubordina-tion as in civilized countries. It will not be improper, in this place, to take notice, that we were eye-witnefTes of a fact, which, as it was the only in-dance we faw of any thing like jealoufy among them, fhews, at the fame time, that not only fidelity, but a degree of rc-ferve, is required from the married women of confequence. At one of the entertainments of boxing, Omeah was obferved to rife from his place two or three times, and to go up to his wife with flrong marks of difpleafure, ordering her, as it appeared to us from his manner, to withdraw. Whether it was, that being very handfomc, he thought fhe drew too much of our attention, or without being able to determine what other reafon he might have for his conduct., it is but juftice to fay, that there exided no real caufe of jealoufy. However, fhe kept her place ; and when the entertainment was over, joined our party, and foliciting fome trifling prefents, was given to undcrdand, that we had none about us ; but that if fhe would accompany us toward our tent, fhe fhould return with fuch as fhe liked bed. She was accordingly walking along with, us; which Omeah obferving, followed in a violent rage, and feizing her by the hair, hegan to inflict, with his fids, a fevere corporal punifhment. This fight, efpecially as we had innocently been the caufe of it, gave us much concern; and yet we were told, that it would be highly improper to interfere between man and wife of fuch high rank. We were, however, not left without the confolation of feeing the natives at laft interpofe;. and had the farther fatisfaction of meeting them together the next day, in perfect good-humour wTith each other; and' 4 what what is ftill more lingular, the lady would not fuiFer us to remonftratc with her hulhand on his treatment of her, which we were much inclined to do, and plainly told us, that he had done no more than he ought. Whilft I was afhore at the obfervatory at Karakakooa Bay, 1 had twice an opportunity of feeing a confiderable part of their funeral rites. Intelligence was brought me of the death of an old Chief in a houfe near our obfervatories, foon after the event happened. On going to the place, I found a number of people ailembled, and feated round a fquare area, fronting the houfe in which the deceafed lay, whilft a man, in a red feathered cap, advanced from an interior part of the houfe to the door, and putting out his head, at almoft every moment uttered a moft lamentable howl, accompanied witli the moft fingular grimaces, and violent diftortions of his face, that can be conceived. After this had pa (fed a fhort time, a large mat was fpread upon the area, and two men and thirteen women came out of the houfe and feated themfelves down upon it, in three equal rows; the two men, and three of the women, being in Front. The necks and hands of the women were decorated with feathered ruffs; and broad green leaves, curioufly Scolloped, were fpread over their moulders. At one corner or this area, near a fmall hut, were half a dozen boys waving fmall white banners, and the tufted wands, or taboo flicks, which have been often mentioned in the former chapters, who would not permit us to approach them. This led me to imagine, that the dead body might be depofited in this little hut; but I afterward underftood, that it was in the houfe where the man in the red cap opened ihe rites, by playing his tricks at the door. The company juft mentioned, being feated on the mat, began to fing a melancholy tune, tune, accompanied with a flow and gentle motion of the *77& body and arms. When this had continued fome time, they w—i^-raifed themfelves on their knees, and, in a pofture between kneeling and fitting, began by degrees to move their arms and their bodies with great rapidity, the tunc always keeping pace with their motions. As thefe laft exertions were too violent to continue long, they relumed, at intervals, their flower movements ; and, after this performance had laftcd an hour, more mats were brought and fpread upon the area, and four or five elderly women, amongft whom, I was told, was the dead Chief's wife, advanced flowly out of the houfe, and feating themfelves in the front of the firft company, began to cry and wail moft bitterly ; the women in the three rows behind joining them, whilft the two men inclined their heads over them in a very melancholy and pcnfive attitude. At this period of the rites, I was obliged to leave them to attend at the obfervatory; but returning within half an hour, found them in the fame fituation. 1 continued with them till late in the evening, and left them proceeding with little variation, as juft defcribed; refolving, however, to attend early in the morning, to fee the remainder of the ceremony. On my arrival at the houfe, as foon as it was day, I found to my mortification, the crowd dif-perfed, and every thing quiet; and was given to underftand, that the corpfe was removed ; nor could I learn in what manner it was difpofed of. I was interrupted in making farther inquiries for this purpofe, by the approach of three women of rank, who, whilft their attendants flood near them with their fly-flaps, fat down by us, and, entering into converfation, foon made me comprehend, that our prefencc was a hindrance to the performance of fome neceflary rites. I had I had hardly got out of fight, before 1 heard their cries and lamentations^ and meeting them a few hours afterward, I found they had painted the lower part of their faces perfect black. The other opportunity 1 had of obferving thefe ceremonies, was in the cafe of an ordinary perfon; when, on hearing fome mournful female cries iiTne from a miferable looking hut, I ventured into it, and found an old woman with her daughter, weeping over the body of an elderly man, who had but juft expired, being ftill warm. The firft step they took, was to cover the body with cloth, after which, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over themfelves, and then began a mournful kind of fong, frequently repeating, Azve/j mcdoaah I Awch tancc I Oh my father! Oh my hufband! A younger daughter was alfo at the fame time lying proftrate, in a corner of the houfe, covered over with black cloth, repeating the fame words. On leaving this melancholy fcenc, 1 found at the door a number of their neighbours collected together, and listening to their cries with profound filence. I was refolved not to mifs this opportunity of feeing in what manner they dif-pofe of the body; and therefore, after satisfying myfelf, before I went to bed, that it was not then removed, I gave orders, that the fentries fhould walk backward and forward before the houfe, and, in cafe they fufpected any meafures were taking for the removal of the body, to give me immediate notice. However, the fentries had not kept a good look-out, for in the morning I found the body was gone. On inquiring, what they had done with it ? They pointed toward the fea; indicating, moft probably, thereby, that it had been committed to the deep, or perhaps that it had been carried beyond the bay, to fome burying"ground in another another part of the country. The Chiefs are interred in the Morals y or Heree-erees, with the men facriflced on the occafion, by the fide of them ; and we obferved, that the Morai, where the Chief had been buried, who, as I have already mentioned, was killed in the cave, after fo flout a refinance, was hung round with red cloth. Vol. III. Z A VOYACE VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN BOOK VI. Tranfa&ions during the fecond Expedition to the North, by the Way of Kamtfchatka ; and on the return Home, by the Way of Canton, and the Cape of Good Hope. CHAP. I. Departure from Oneeheow.—Fruitlefs Attempt to difcover Modoopapafpa.—Courfe fleered for Awatfka Bay.—Occurrences during that Pajfage.—Sudden Change from Heat to Cold.—Diflrefs occajioned by the leaking of the' Refolution,—View of the Coafl of Kamtfchatka,—Extreme Rigour of the Climate.—Lofe Sight of the Difcovery.—The Refolution enters the Bay of Awatfka.— ProjpeEl of the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul— Party fint ajhore.—Their Reception by the Commanding Officer of the Port,—Mejfage dif patched to the Commander at Bolcheretjk.—Arrival of the Difcovery.— Z 2 Return' Return of the Meffengers, from the Commander* — Extraordinary Mode of travelling. — Vifit from a Merchant, and a German Servant belonging to the Commander. March (~\ ^ tne °^ March, at leven in the morning, wc >---• vJ weighed anchor, and palling to the North of Tahoora, Monday 15. ftQQfi on to tjle South Welt, in hopes of falling in with the ifland of Modoopapappa, which, we were told by the natives, lay in that direction, about five hours fail from Tahoora. At four in the afternoon, we were overtaken by a flout canoe, with ten men, who were going from Oneeheow to Tahoora, to kill tropic and man-of-war birds, with which that place was faid to abound. It has been mentioned before, that the feathers of thefe birds are in great requeft, being much ufed in making their cloaks, and other ornamental parts of their drefs. At eight, having feen nothing of the ifland, we hauled the wind to the Northward, till midnight, and then tacked, and flood on a wind to the South Eaft, till day-light next Tuefday 16. morning, at which time Tahoora bore Eaft North Eaft, five or fix leagues diftant. We afterward fleered Weft South Weft, and made the Difcovery's fignal to fpread four miles upon our flarboard beam. At noon, our latitude was 21" 27', and our longitude 198° 42'; and having flood on till five, in the fame direction, we made the Difcovery's fignal to come under our flern, and gave over all hopes of feeing Modoopapappa. We conceived, that it might probably lie in a more Southerly direction from Tahoora, than that in which we had lteered; though, after all, it is poflible, that we might have palled it in the night, as the if landers defcribed it to to be very fmall, and almofl even with the furf ace of !779- J March. the fea. v.—_* The next day, we fleered Wefl; it being Captain Clerke's Wednef. 17. intention to keep as near as poflible in the fame parallel of latitude, till we fhould make the longitude of Awatfka Bay, and afterward to fleer due North for the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in that bay; which was alfo appointed for our rendezvous, in cafe of feparation. This track was chofen on account of its being, as far as we knew, unexplored ; and we were not without hopes of falling in with fome new iflands on our paffage. We had fcarcely feen a bird, fince our lofing fight of Tahoora, till the 18th in the afternoon, when, being in the ThurfdayiS. latitude of 210 12', and the longitude of 1940 45', the appearance of a great many boobies, and fome man-of-war birds, made us keep a fharp look-out for land. Toward evening, the wind leffened, and the North Eaft fwell, which, on the 16th and 17th, had been fo heavy as to make the fhips labour exceedingly, was much abated. The next day, we Friday 19. faw no appearance of land; and at noon, we fleered a point more to the Southward, viz. Weft by South, in the hopes of finding the trade winds (which blew almofl invariably from the Eaft by North) frefher as wc advanced within the tropic. It is fomewhat fingular, that though we faw no birds in the forenoon, yet toward evening we had again a number of boobies and man-of-war birds about us. This feemed to indicate, that we had paffed the land from whence the former flights had come, and that we were approaching fome other low ifland. The wind continued very moderate, with fine weather, till the 23d, when it frefhened from the North Eaft by Eaft, Tuefday 23. and *779- and increafcd to a ftrone gale, which fplit fome of our old March. ... . fails, and made the running rigging very frequently give way. This gale laflcd twelve hours; it then became more Thurfdayzj. moderate, and continued fo, till the 25th at noon, when we entirely loft it, and had only a very light air. F-iday26, On the 26th in the morning, we thought we faw land to the Weft South Weft, but, after running about fixteen leagues in that direction, we found our miftake and night coming on, we again fleered Weft. Our latitude, at this time, was 190 45', which was the greateft Southing we made in this run; our longitude was 183*, and variation 120 45' Eaft. We continued in this courfe, with little M t alteration in the wind, till the 29th, when it fhifted to the Monday 29. r South Eaft and South South Eaft, and, for a few hours in the night, it was in the Weft; the weather being dark and cloudy, with much rain. We had met, for fome days paft, feveral turtles, one of which was the fmalleft I ever faw,. not exceeding three inches in length. We were alfo accompanied by man-of-war birds, and boobies of an unufual kind, being quite white (except the tip of the wing, which was black), and eafily miftaken, at firft fight, for gannets. The light winds which we had met with for fome time paft, with the prefent unfcttlcd ftate of the weather, and the little appearance of any change for the better, induced Captain Clerke to alter his plan of keeping within the tropical latitudes; and accordingly, at fix this evening, we began to fleer North Weft by North, at which time our latitude was 200 23', and our longitude 180* 40'. During the continuance of the light winds, which prevailed almofl conftantly ever fince our departure from the Sandwich Iflands, the weather was very clofe, and the air hot and fultry fultry; the thermometer being generally at 8o\ and fome- ^77> times at 83*. All this time, we had a considerable fwell l.— from the North Eaft; and in no period of the voyage did the fhips roll and ftrain fo violently. . April. In the morning of the ill of April, the wind changed Thurfdayi. from the South Eaft to the North Eaft by Eaft, and blew a frefh breeze, till the morning of the 4th, when it altered Sunday 4. two points more to the Eaft, and by noon increafed to a ftrong gale, which lafted till the afternoon of the j'th, at- Monday 5. tended with hazy weather. It then again altered its direction to the South Eaft, became more moderate, and was accompanied by heavy mowers of rain. During all this time, we kept fleering to the North Weft, againft a flow but regular current from that quarter, which caufed a conflant variation from our reckoning by the log, of fifteen miles a day. On the 4th, being then in the latitude 260 17', and longitude 173* 30', we paffed prodigious quantities of what failors call Portuguefe men-of-war (holothuria phy-falis), and were alfo accompanied with a great number of fea birds, amongft which we obferved, for the firft time, the albatrofs and fheerwater. On the 6th, at noon, we loft the trade wind, and were Tuefday 6. fuddenly taken a-back, with the wind from the North North Weft. At this time, our latitude was 290 50', and our longitude 1700 1'. As the old running ropes were conftantly breaking in the late gales, we reeved what new ones we had left, and made fuch other preparations, as were neceffary for the very different climate with which we were now fhortly to encounter. The fine weather we met with between the tropics, had not been idly fpent. The carpenters found fuflicient employment in repairing the boats. The bell bower cable had been fo much damaged 4 by 177?; by the foul ground in Karakakooa Bay, and whilft we were April. <-,—at anchor off Oneeheow, that we were obliged to cut forty fathoms from it; in converting of which, with other old cordage, into fpun-yarn, and applying it to different ufes, a confiderable part of the people were kept conftantly employed by the boatfwain. The airing of fails and other flores, which, from the leakinefs of the decks and fides of the mips, were perpetually fubject to be wet, had now become a frequent as well as a laborious and troublefome part of our duty. Befides thefe cares, which had regard only to the fhips themfelves, there were others, which had for their object the prefervation of the health of the crews, that f urnifhed a conftant occupation to a great number of our hands. The Handing orders, eftablifhed by Captain Cook, of airing the bedding, placing fires between decks, warning them with vinegar, and fmoking them with gunpowder, were obferved without any intermifHon. For fome time paft, ever* the operation of mending the failors old jackets had rifen into a duty both of difficulty and importance. It may be neceffary to inform thofe who are unacquainted with the difpofition and habits of feamen, that they are fo accuf-tomed in fhips of war to be directed in the care of themfelves by their officers, that they lofe the very idea of fore-fight, and contract the thoughtleffncfs of infants. I am fure, that if our people had been left to their own discretion alone, we fhould have had the whole crew naked, before the voyage had been half finifhed. It was natural to expect, that their experience, during our voyage to the North laft year, would have made them fenfible of the ne-ceflity of paying fome attention to thefe matters ; but if fuch reflections ever occurred to them, their impreflion was fo o tranfitory, that, upon our return to the tropical climates, *W9* their fur jackets, and the reft of their cold country clothes, <-<■-' were kicked about the decks as things of no value; though it was generally known, in both mips, that we were to make another voyage toward the pole. They were, of courfe, picked up by the officers j and, being put into cafks, reftorcd about this time to the owners. In the afternoon, we obferved fome of the fheathing floating by the fhip ; and, on examination, found that twelve or fourteen feet had been warned off from under the larboard-bow, where we fuppofed the leak to have been; which, ever iince our leaving Sandwich Iflands, had kept the people almofl conftantly at the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. This day we faw a number of fmall crabs, of a pale blue colour ; and had again, in company, a few albatroffes and fheerwaters. The thermometer, in the night-time, funk eleven degrees; and although it ftill remained as high as 590, yet we fullered much from the cold ; our feelings being, as yet, by no means, reconciled to that degree of temperature. The wind continued blowing frefh from the North, till the eighth, in the morning, when it became more moderate, ThurfdayS, with fair weather, and gradually changed its direction to the * Eaft, and afterward to the South. On the ninth, at noon, our latitude was 32° 16'; our Friday9. longitude 1660 40'; and the variation 8° 3c/ Eaft. And on the tenth, having crofted the track of the Spanifh gal- Saturday 10, leons from the Manillas to Acapulco, we expected to have fallen in with the Ifland of Rica de Plata, which, according to De Lille's chart, in which the route of thofe fhips is laid down, ought to have been in fight ; its latitude, as there Vol. III. A a given, A»779> given, being 330 30' North, and its longitude 1660 Eafl. Not- »-/ withflanding we were fo far advanced to the Northward, we faw this day a tropic bird, and alfo feveral other kinds of fea-birds ; fuch as puffins, fea-parrots, fhcerwaters, and al-batroffes. Sunday 11, On the eleventh, at noon, we were in latitude 350 30', longitude 1650 45'; and during the courfe of the day, had fea-birds, as before, and palled feveral bunches of fea-weed. About the fame time, the Difcovery palled a log of wood; but no other iigns of land were fcen. Monday 12. The next day the wind came gradually round to the Eafl, and increafed to fo flrong a gale, as obliged us to ftrikc our top-gallant yards, and brought us under the lower fails, and the main top-fail clofe reefed. Unfortunately we were upon that tack, which was the moft difadvantageous for our leak. But, as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it gave us no great uneafinefs, till Tuefday 13. the 13th, about fix in the afternoon, when we were greatly alarmed by a fudden inundation, that deluged the whole fpace between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a fufticient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a moment fet every thing afloat. Our fituation was indeed exceedingly diftrefl-ing; nor did wc immediately fee any means of relieving ourfelvcs. A pump, through the upper decks into the coalhole, could anfwer no end, as it would very foon have been choaked up by the fmall coals; and, to bale the water out with buckets, was become impracticable, from the number of bulky materials that were warned out of the gunner's ftore-room into it, and which, by the (hip's motion, were tolfed violently from fide to fide. No other method was therefore THE PACIFIC O C E A N. 179 therefore left, but to cut a hole through the bulk-head (or ,779- ... *" _ April. partition) that fcparated the coal-hole from the fore-hold, <—C-' and by that means to make a palfage for the body of water into the well. However, before that could be done, it was neceffary to get the cafks of dry provifions out of the fore-hold, which kept us employed the greateft part of the night; fo that the carpenters could not get at the partition till the next morning. As foon as a paflage was made, the greatefl Wednef. 14. part of the water emptied itfclf into the well, and enabled vis to get out the reft with buckets. But the leak was now fo much increafed, that we were obliged to keep one half of the people conftantly pumping and baleing, till the noon of the 15th. Our men bore, with great chcerfulnefs, this ex- Thurfdiyij; ccflive fatigue, which was much increafed by their having no dry place to flecp in ; and, on this account, we began to ferve their full allowance of grog. The weather now becoming more moderate, and the fwell lefs heavy, we were enabled to clear away the reft of the cafks from the fore-hold, and to open a fufheient paffage for the water to the pumps. This day we faw a grecnifh piece of drift-wood, and fancying the water coloured, wre founded, but got no bottom with a hundred and fixty fathoms of line. Our latitude, at noon this day, was 41° 52', longitude 161° 15'; variation 6° 30' Eaft; and the wind foon after veering to the Northward, we altered our courfe three points to the Weft. On the 16th, at noon, we wTcre in the latitude of 42* 12', Frid&j 16. and in the longitude of 160*5'; and as we were now approaching the place where a great extent of land is faid to have been feen by De Gama, we were glad of the opportunity which the courfe we were fleering gave, of contributing to remove the doubts, if anv fhould be ftill en- A a 2 tertained, ^779. tcrtained, refpecting the falfehood of this pretended difco-v—;—^ very. For it is to be obferved, that no one has ever yet been able to find who John de Gama was, when he lived, or what year this pretended difcovery was made. According to Mr, Mullcr, the firft account of it given to the Public was in a chart publifhed by Texeira, a Portu-gucze geographer, in 1649, who places it in ten or twelve degrees to the North Eafl of Japan, between the latitudes of 440 and 45°; and announce it to be landfecn by John de Gama9 the Indian, in a voyage from China to New Spain. On what grounds the French geographers have fmce removed it five degrees to the Eaflward, does not appear; except we fuppofc it to have been in order to make room for another difcovery of the fame kind made by the Dutch, called Company's Land* of which we fhall have occafion to fpeak hereafter. During the whole day, the wind was exceedingly un-fettled, being feldom flcady to two or three points; and blowing in frefh guffs, which were fucceeded by dead calms. Thefe were not unpromifmg appearances; but, after Handing off and on, the whole of this day, without feeing any thing of the land, we again fleered to the Northward, not thinking it worth our while to lofc time in fearch of an object, the opinion of whole exilic nee had been already pretty generally exploded. Our people were employed the whole of the 16th, in getting their wet things to dry, and in airing the mips below. We now began to feel very fharply the incrcafing inclemency of the Northern climate. In the morning of Sunday is. the 18th, our latitude being 45* 40', and our longitude 160* 25', we had fnow and fleet, accompanied with flrong gales from the South Wefl. This circumftance will appear pear very remarkable, if wc confuler the feafon of the '779 * ' April year, and the quarter from which the wind blew. On the v— 19th, the thermometer, in the day-time, remained at the Monday freezing point, and at four in the morning fell to 29/, If the reader will take the trouble to compare the degree of heat, during the hot fultry weather we had at the beginning of this month, with the extreme cold which we now endured, he will conceive how fevcrely fo rapid a change muft have been felt by us. In the gale of the 18th, wc had fplit almofl all the fails wc had bent, which being our fecond befl fuit, we were now reduced to make ufe of our laft and befl fet. To add to Captain Clcrkc's difficulties, the fea was in general fo rough, and the mips fo leaky, that the fail-makers had no place to repair the fails in, except his apartments, which, in his declining ftate of health, was a fcrious inconvenience to him. On the aoth, at noon, being in latitude 49° 45' North, Tuefflay and longitude 1610 15' Eafl; and eagerly expecting to fall in with the coafl of Afia, the wind fhifted fuddenly to the North, and continued in the fame quarter the following day. However, although it retarded our progrefs, yet the fair weather it brought was no fmall refreshment to us. In the forenoon of the 2ill, wc faw a whale, and a land- Wednef. bird ; and, in the afternoon, the water looking muddy, wc founded, but got no ground with an hundred and forty fathoms of line. During the three preceding days, we faw large flocks of wild fowl, of a fpecies refembling ducks. This is ufually confidcred as a proof of the vicinity of land; but we had no other figns of it, fince the 16th ; in which time we had run upward of an hundred and fifty leagues. On ^779- On the 22o\ the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, attended . Jri-Q with mifty weather. The cold was exceedingly fevcre, and ll,rtHyz2, the ropes were fo frozen, that it was with difficulty we could force them through the blocks. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 510 38', longitude 160° 7'; and on comparing our prefent pofition with that given to the Southern parts of Kamtfchatka, in the Ruffian charts, Captain Clerke did not think it prudent to run on toward the land all night. We therefore tacked at ten; and, having founded, had ground agreeably to our conjectures, with feventy fathoms of line, rriday 23. On the 23d, at fix in the morning, being in latitude 52° 09', and longitude 1600 07', on the fog clearing away, the land appeared in mountains covered with fnow ; and extending from North three quarters Eafl, to South Well, a high conical rock, bearing South Well, three quarters Weft, at three or four leagues diftance. We had no fooncr taken this imperfect view, than wc were again covered with a thick fog. Being now, according to our maps, only eight leagues from the entrance of Awatfka Bay, as foon as the weather cleared up, wc flood in to take a nearer view of the land ; and a more difmal and dreary profpect I never beheld. The coaft appears ftraight and uniform, having no inlets or bays ; the ground, from the fhore, rifes in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges of mountains, whofe fummits were loft in the clouds. The whole fecne was entirely covered with fnow, except the fides of fome of the cliffs, which rofe too abruptly from the fea for the fnow to lie upon them. The wind continued blowing very ftrong from the North Eaft, with thick hazy weather and fleet, from the 24th till the 28th. During the whole time, the thermometer was never higher than 30^°. The {hip appeared to be a com-3 plete Saturday 24. plctc mafs of ice; the fhrowds were fo incrufted with it, as j»77«« April. to meafure in circumference more than double their ufual 1-«—-f fize; and, in fhort, the experience of the oldeft feaman among us, had never met with any thing like the continued fhowers of fleet, and the extreme cold, which we now encountered. Indeed the fevcrity of the weather, added to the great difficulty of working the fhips, and the labour of keeping the pumps conftantly going, rendered the fervice too hard for many of the crew, fome of whom were froft-bitten, and others laid up with bad colds. We continued all this time Handing four hours on each tack, having generally foundings of fixty fathoms, when about three leagues from the land; but none at twice that diflance. On the 25th, we had a tranfient view of the entrance of Awatfka Sundiyaj. Bay ; but, in the prefent flatc of the weather, we were afraid of venturing into it. Upon our (landing off again, we loft fight of the Difcovery; but, as we were now fo near the place of rendezvous, this gave us no great un-eafinefs. On the 28th, in the morning, the weather at laft cleared, Wci«vr. z%, and the wind fell to a light breeze from the fame quarter as before. We had a fine warm day; and, as wc now began to expect a thaw, the men were employed in breaking the ice from off the rigging, mails, and fails, in order to prevent its falling on our heads. At noon, being in the latitude of 520 44, and the longitude of 1590, the entrance of Awatfka Bay bore North Well, diftant three or four leagues; and, about three in the afternoon, a fair wind fprung up from the Southward, with which we flood in, having regular foundings, from twenty-two to feven fathoms The AP7di Tlic momn of mc DaY °pens in a North North Weft di- <-;-» rection. The land, on the South fide, is of a moderate height; to the Northward, it rifes into a blufThead, which is the highclt part of the coaft. In the channel between them, near the North Eaft fide, lie three remarkable rocks; and, farther in, near the oppoiite coaft, a fingle detached rock of a confiderable fize. On the North head there is a look-out houfe, which, when the Ruffians expect any of their fhips upon the coaft, is ufed as a light-houfc. There was a flag-ft a If on it; but wc faw no fign of any perfon being there. Having paffed the mouth of the bay, which is about four miles long, we opened a large circular bafon of twenty-five miles in circumference; and, at half paft four, came to an anchor in fix fathoms water, being afraid of running foul on a fhoal, or fome funk rocks, which are faid by Muller*, to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loofe ice, drifting with the tide; but the fhores were ftill entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild-fowl were fcen of various fpecies ; likewife ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. We examined every corner of the bay, with our glaflcs, in fearch of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul; which, according to the accounts given us at Oonalafka, we had conceived to be a place of fome ftrength and con-fidcration. At length we difcovered, on a narrow point of land to the North North Eaft, a few miferable log-houfes, and fome conical huts, railed on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their fituation, notwithftanding all the refpect we wifhed to entertain for a Ruffian ofirog, * Voyages made by the Ruffians from Alia to America, &c, translated from the German ; by T. Jefferys, p. 37. 7 we we were under the neceflity of concluding to be Petro- j77^ paulowfka. However, in juftice to the generous and ho- '-*---' fpitable treatment wc found here, I fhall beg leave to anticipate the reader's curiofity, by alluring him, that our disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a fcri-ons nature. For, in this wretched extremity of the earth, fituated beyond every thing that we conceived to be moft barbarous and inhofpitable, and, as it were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricaded with ice, and covered with fummer fnow, in a poor mifcrable port, far inferior to the meaneft of our fifhing towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a grcatnefs of mind, and elevation of fen-timcnt, which would have done honour to any nation or climate. During the night, much ice drifted by us with the tide, and at day-light I was fent with the boats to examine the Thurfday*?, bay, and deliver the letters we had brought from Oona-lafhka to the Ruffian Commander. Wc directed our courfe toward the village I have juft mentioned, and having proceeded as far as we were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which extended near half a mile from the fhore. Mr. Webber, and two of the feamcn, accompanied me, whilft the Mafter took the pinnace and cutter to finifh the furvey, leaving the jolly-boat behind to carry us back. I believe the inhabitants had not yet feen either the fhip or the boats ■, for even after wc had got on the ice, we could not perceive any figriS of a living creature m the town. By the time we had advanced a little way on the ice, wc obferved a few men hurrying backward and forward, and prcfently after, a fledge, drawn by dogs vyith one of the inhabitants in it, came down to the tea-fide, oppofite to us. Vol. III. 13 b Whilft Whilft wc were gazing at this unufual fight, and admiring the great civility of this ftranger, which we imagined had brought him to our affitlance, the man, after viewing us for fome time very attentively, turned fhort round, and went off, with great fpeed, toward the ojlrog. We were not lefs chagrined than difappointcd at this abrupt departure, as we began to find our journey over the ice, attended not only with great difficulty, but even with danger. We funk at every ftep almofl knee deep in the fnow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom, yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were conftantly ex-pofed to the rifk of breaking through it. This accident at laft actually happened to myfelf; for ftepping on quickly over a fufpicious fpot, in order to prefs with lefs weight upon it, I came upon a fecond, before I could flop myfelf, which broke under me, and in I fell. Luckily, I rofe clear of the ice, and a man that was a little way behind with a boat-hook, throwing it to mc, I laid it acrofs fome loofe pieces near me, and, by that means, was enabled to get upon firm ice again. As we approached the fhore, we found the ice, contrary to our expectations, more broken than it had been before. Wc were, however, again comforted by the fight of another fledge coming toward us, but inflead of proceeding to our relief, the driver flopt fhort, and began to call out to us. I immediately held up to him Ifmyloff's letters ; upon which he turned about, and fet off back again full fpeed; followed, I believe, not with the prayers of any of our party. Hcing at a great lofs what conclufions to draw from this unaccountable behaviour, we continued our march toward the ojlrog, with great circumfpection, and when we had arrived within a quarter of a mile of it, we perceived a body i* of of armed men marching toward us. That we might give them as little alarm, and have as peaceable an appearance as poflible, the two men who had boat-hooks in their hands, were ordered into the rear, and Mr. Webber and myfelf marched in front. The Ruffian party, confiding of about thirty foldiers, was headed by a decent looking perfon, with a cane in his hand. He halted within a few yards of us, and drew up his men in a martial and good order. I delivered to him IfmylofF's letters, and endeavoured to make him underftand, as well as I could (though I afterward found in vain), that we were Englifh, and had brought them papers from Oonalafhka. After having examined us attentively, he began to conduct: us toward the village, in great filence and folemnity, frequently halting his men, to form them in different manners, and make them perform feveral parts of their manual exercife, probably with a view tofhew us, that if we had the temerity to offer any violence> we mould have to deal with men who were not ignorant of their bufinefs. Though I was all this time in my wet clothes, fhivering with cold, and furliciently inclined to the moft unconditional fubmiilion, without having my fears violently alarmed j yet it was impoftible not to be diverted with this military parade, notwithftanding it was attended with the moft unfeafonable delay. At length, wc arrived at the houfe of the Commanding Officer of the party, into which we were ufhered ; and, after no fmall ftir in giving orders, and dif-pofmg of the military without doors, our hoft made his appearance, accompanied by another perfon, whom we un-derftood to be the Secretary of the port. One of Ifmyloif's letters was now opened, and the other fent off, by a fpecial meffenger, to Bolcheretfk, a town on the Weft fide of the 13 b 2 peninfula pcriirifula of Kamtfchatka, where the Ruffian Commander ' of this province ufually rcfidcs. It is very remarkable, that they had not feen the fhip the preceding day, when we came to anchor in the bay, nor indeed this morning, till our boats were pretty near the ice. The panic with which the difcovery had flruck them, we found, had been very confiderablc. The garrifon was immediately put under arms. Two fmall field-pieces were placed at the entrance of the Commander's houfe, and pointed toward our boats ; and fhor, powder, and lighted matches were all ready at hand. The officer, in whofe houfe we were at prefent entertained, was a Serjeant, and the Commander of the ojirog. Nothing could exceed the kindnefs and hofpitality of his behaviour, after he had recovered from the alarm occafioncd by our arrival. Wc found the houfe infufferably hot, but exceedingly neat and clean. After I had changed my clothes, which the Serjeant's civility enabled me to do, by furnifh-ing me with a complete fuit of his own, wc were invited to fit down to dinner, which I have no doubt was the bell he could procure; and, confidcring the fhortnefs of time he had to provide it, was managed with fome ingenuity. As there was not time to prepare foup and bouilU, we had, in their Head, fome cold beef fliccd, with hot water poured over it. We had next a large bird roafted, of a fpecies with which I was unacquainted, but of a very excellent tafle. After having eaten a part of this, it was taken off, and wc were ferved with fifh dreffed two different ways ; and, foon after, the bird again made its appearance, in favory and fweet pates. Our liquor, of which I fhall have to fpeak hereafter, was of the kind called by the Ruffians quafs, and was was much the worft part of the entertainment. The Ser- l???* 1 ( April. jeant's wife brought in feveral of the difhes herfelf, and was c—„—~> not permitted to fit down at table. Having finifhed our re-pafl, during which it is hardly neceffary to remark, that our converfation was confined to a few bows, and other fignsof mutual refpect, we endeavoured to open to our holt the caufe and objects of our vifit to this port. As IfmylofF had probably written to them on the fame fubject, in the letters we had before delivered, he appeared very readily to conceive our meaning; but as there was unfortunately no one in the place that could talk any other language except Ruffian or Kamtfchadale, we found the utmoll difficulty in comprehending the information he meant to convey to us. After fome time fpent in thefe endeavours to understand one another, we conceived the fum of the intelligence wc had procured to be, that though no fupply, either of provifions or naval flores were to be had at this place, yet that thefe articles were in great plenty at Bolcheretfk. That the Commander would, mofl probably, be very willing to give us wThat we wanted; but that, till the Serjeant had received orders from him, neither he nor his people, nor the natives, could even venture to go on board the fhip. It was now time for us to take our leave; and, as my clothes were ftill too wet to put on, I was obliged to have recourfe again to the Serjeant's benevolence, for his leave to carry thofe I had borrowed of him on board. This requeft was complied with very cheerfully, and a fledge, drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was immediately provided for each of our party. The failors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyance ; and what diverted them ftill more was, that the two boat-hooks had alfo a fledge appropriated to themfelves. Thefe fledges arc fo light, and their con's (l ruction flruction fo well adapted to the purpofes for which they are <--v--> intended, that they went with great expedition, and perfect fafety, over the ice, which it would have been impofllble for us, with all our caution, to have paffed on foot. On our return, we found the boats towing the fhip toward the village ; and at feven we got clofe to the ice, and moored with the fmall bower to the North Eafl, and befl bower to the South Wefl; the entrance of the bay bearing South by Eafl, and South three-quarters Eafl; and the oftrog North, one quarter Eafl, diftant one mile and a half. The Friday 30. ncxt morning, the calks and cables were got upon the quartcr-deck, in order to lighten the fhip forward; and the carpenters were fet to work to flop the leak, which had given us fo much trouble during our laft run. It was found to have been occafioncd by the falling of fome fheathing from the larboard-bow, and the oakum between the planks having been wafhed out. The warm weather wc had in the middle of the day, began to make the ice break away very fall, which, drifting with the tide, had almofl filled up the entrance of the bay. Several of our gentlemen paid their vifits to the Serjeant, by whom they were received with great civility j and Captain Clerke fent him two bottles of rum which he understood would be the mofl acceptable prefent he could make him, and received in return fome fine fowls of the groufe kind, and twenty trouts. Our fportfmen met with but bad fuccefs; for though the bay fwarmed with flocks of ducks of various kinds, and ' Greenland pigeons, yet they were fo fhy, that they could not come within fhot of them. May. In the morning of the ill of May, feeing the Difcovery Gaturnay u g^jj^g ulto tac kaVj a boat was immediately fent to her afliitance; THE PACIFIC OCEAN. ipt afliftance; and in the afternoon, flic moored clofe by us. T"9- 7 May. They told us, that after the weather cleared up on the &8th, *—v-—» the day on which fhe had parted company, they found themfelves to leeward of the bay, and that, when they got abreaft of it, the following day, and faw the entrance choaked up with ice, they flood off, after firing guns, concluding wc could not be here ; but finding afterward it was only loofe drift-ice, they had ventured in. The next day, Sunday*, the weather was fo very unfcttled, attended with heavy fhowers of fnow, that the carpenters were not able to proceed in their work. The thermometer flood at 280 in the evening, and the froft was exceedingly feverc in the night. The following morning, on our obferving two Hedges Monday%. drive into the village, Captain Clerke fent me on fhore, to inquire whether any meffage was arrived from the Commander of Kamtfchatka, which, according to the ferjeant's account, might now be expected, in confequence of the intelligence that had been fent of our arrival. Bolcheretfk, by the ufual route, is about one hundred and thirty-five Englifh miles from Saint Peter and Saint Paul's. Our dif-patches were fent off in a fledge drawn by dogs, on the 29th, about noon. And the anlwer arrived, as we afterward found, early this morning; fo that they were only a liti !e more than three days and a half in performing a journey of two hundred and feventy miles. The return of the Commander's anfwer was, however, concealed from us for the prefent; and I was told, on my arrival at the ferjeant's, that we fhould hear from him the next day. Whilfl I was on more, the boat, which had brought me, together with another belonging to the Difcovery, were fet fafl in the ice, which a Southerly wind had driven ifta A VOYAGE TO 4 j779. driven from the other fide of the bay. On feeing them cn-<-„-- tangled, the Difcovery's launch had been fent to their afliftance, but foon fhared the fame fate; and, in amort time, the ice had furrounded them near a quarter of a mile deep. This obliged us to flay on fhore till evening, when finding no profpect of getting the boats off, fome of us went in Hedges to the edge of the ice, and were taken off by boats fent from the fhip, and the reft ftaid on fhore all night. It continued to freeze hard during the night; but, before Tuefday 4. morning, on the 4th, a change of wind drifted away the floating ice, and fet the boats at liberty, without their having fuftained the fmallcft damage. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, we faw feveral fledges driving down the edge of the ice, and fent a boat to con-duel the perfons who were in them on board. One of thefe was a Ruffian merchant from Bolcherctfk, named Fedo-iitfeh, and the other a German, called Port, who had brought a letter from Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, to Captain Clerke. When they got to the cclgcof the ice, and faw diftinclly the fize of the fhips, which lay within about two hundred yards from them, they appeared to be exceedingly alarmed; and, before they would venture to embark, defircd two of our boat's crew might be left on fhore as hoftages for their fafety. We afterward found, that Ifmyloff, in his letter to the commander, had mifreprcfented us, for what reafons we could not conceive, as two fmall trading boats, and that the fcrjeanr, who had only fcen the fhips at a diftance, had not, in his difpatches, rectified the miftake. When they arrived on hoard, wc ftill found, from their cautious and timorous behaviour, that they were under fome unaccountable apprehenfions; and an uncommon degree gree of fatisfaction was vifible in their countenances, on the German's finding a perfon amongft us, with whom he could converfe. This was Mr. Webber, who fpoke that language perfectly well; and at laft, though with fome difficulty, convinced them, that we were Englishmen, and friends. Mr. Port being introduced to Captain Gierke, delivered to him the Commander's letter, which was written in German, and was merely complimental, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretfk, to which place fhe people, who brought it, were to conduct us. Mr. Port, at the fame time, acquainted him, that the Major had conceived a very wrong idea of the fize of the fhips, and of the fcrvice we were engaged in ; Ifmyloff, in his letter, having reprefented us as two fmall Englifh pacquet boats, and cautioned him to be on his guard ; infinuating, that he fufpected us to be no better than pirates. In confequence of this letter, he faid, there had been various conjectures formed about us at Bolche-rcrik: that the Major thought it moft probable we were on a trading fcheme, and for that reafon had fent down a merchant to us; but that the officer, who was fecond in command, was of opinion we were French, and come with fome. hoitile intention, and were for taking meafures accordingly. It had required, he added, all the Major's authority to keep the inhabitants from leaving the town, and retiring up into the country j to fo extraordinary a pitch had their fears rifen, from their perfuafion that wc were French. Their extreme apprehcnfions of that nation were principally occafioned, by fome circumftances attending an infur-rection that had happened at Bolcheretfk, a few years before, in which the Commander had loft his life. We were informed, that an exiled Polifh officer, named Beniowfki, taking advantage of the confufion into which the town was Vol. III. C c thrown, thrown, had fcized upon a galliot, then lying at the entrance of the Bolfchoirceka, and had forced on board a number of Ruffian failors, fufficient to navigate her: that he had put on fhore a part of the crew at the Kourilc Iflands ; and, among the reft, Ifmyloff, who, as the reader will recollect, had puzzled us exceedingly, at Oonalafhka, with the hiftory of this tranfaetion ; though, for want of understanding his language, we could not then make out all the circumflances attending it: that he paffed in fight of Japan ; made Luco-nia; and was there directed how to fleer to Canton: that, arriving there, he had applied to the French, and had got a paflage in one of their India fhips to 1 ranee: and that moft of the Ruffians had likewife returned to Europe in French fhips; and had afterward found their way to Peterfburg. We met with three of Beniowfki's crew in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; and from them we learnt the circumflances of the above ftory. On our arrival at Canton, we received a farther corroboration of the facts, from the gentlemen of the Englifh factory, who told us, that a perfon had arrived there in a Ruffian galliot, who faid he came from Kamtfchatka; and that he had been furnifhed by the French factory, with a paflage to Europe *. We could not help being much diverted with the fears and appiehenfions of thefe good people, and particularly with the account M. Port gave us of the ferjeant's wary proceedings the day before. On feeing me come on fhore, in company with fome other gentlemen, he had made him and the merchant, who arrived in the fledges we had feen come * It hath fmce appeared, from the account of Kerguelen's Voyage, that this extraordinary perfon, who had entered into the French fcrvice, was commander of a new fettlement at Madagafcar, when Kerguelen touched there in 1774. 7 in in the morning, hide themfelves in his kitchen, and liflen to our converfation with one another, in hopes, that by this means, they might difcover whether we were really Englifh or not. As wc concluded, from the commiilion and drefs of M. Port, that he might probably be the Commander's fecretary, he was received as fuch, and invited, with his companion, the merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke : and though we foon began to fufpect, from the behaviour of the latter toward him, that he was only a common fervant, yet this being no time to facrifice our little comforts to our pride, we prevented an explanation, by not fuffering the queftion to be put to him; and, in return fbr the fatisfaction we reaped from his abilities as a linguifl, we continued to let him live on a footing of equality with us. Cc % CHAP, CHAP. II. Scarcity of Provifions and Stores at the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. —A Party fet out to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk.—Pajfage tip the River Awatfka. —Account of their Reception by the Toion of Karatchin. — Defcription of a Kamtfchadale Drefs. — Journey on Sledges. — Defcription of this Mode of Travelling.—Arrival at Natcheekin.—Account of hot Springs.—Embark on the Bolchoireka.—Reception at the Capital.—Generous and h of pi table ConduEi of the Commander and the Garrifon. — Defcription of Bolcheretfk.— Prefents from the Co?nmander.—Ruffian and Kamtfchadale Dancing. — AffeEling Departure from Bolcheretjk.—Return to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, accompanied by Major Behrn, who vifits the Ships.—Ge-nerofity of the Sailors.—Dif patches fent by Major Behm to Peterjburg.—His Departure and CharaSler. BEING now enabled to converfe with the Ruffians, by the aid of our interpreter, with tolerable facility, our firft inquiries were directed to the means of procuring a fupply of frefh provifions, and naval ft ores ; from the want of which latter article, in particular, we had been for fome time in great diftrefs. On inquiry, it appeared, that the whole flock of live cattle, which the country about the bay £ could THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *97 ould furnifh, amounted only to two heifers j and thefe the \779* 1 * May. ferjeant very readily promifed to procure us. Our applica- '- tions were next made to the merchant, but wc found the terms, upon which he offered to ferve us, fo exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it neceffary to fend an officer to vifit the Commander at Bolcheretfk, and to inquire into the price of flores at that place. As foon as this determination was communicated to Mr. Tort, he difpatched an exprefs to the Commander, to inform him of our intentions, and, at the fame time, to clear us from the fufpicions that were entertained with refpect to the defignation and purpofes of our voyage. Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for Tuefday 4. this fervice, I received orders, together with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany me as interpreter, to be ready to fet out the next day, It proved, however, too ftormy, as did W«dnefLj. alfo the 6th, for beginning a journey through fo wild and Thurfday6. defolate a country 5 but, on the 7th, the weather appearing trida^. more favourable, we fet out early in the morning in the fhip's boats, with a view to reach the entrance of the Awatfka at high water, on account of the fhoals with which the mouth of that river abounds: here the country boats were to meet us, and carry us up the flream. Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Meffrs. Port and Fedofitfch, with two coflacks, and were provided, by our conductors, with warm furred clothing; a precaution which wre foon found very neceffary, as it began to fnow brifkly juft after we fet out. At eight o'clock, being flopped by fhoal water, about a mile from the mouth of the river, fome fmall canoes, belonging to the Kamtfchadales, took up us and our baggage, and carried carried us over a fpk of fand, which is thrown up by the rapidity of the river, and which, they told us, was continue ally fhifting. When we had croffed this ihoal, the water again deepened ; and here we found a commodious boat* built and fhaped like a Norway yawl, ready to convey us up the river, together with canoes for our baggage. The mouth of the Awatfka is about a quarter of a mile broad; and as we advanced, it narrowed very gradually. After we had proceeded a few miles, we palled feveral branches, which, we were told, emptied themfelves into other parts.of the bay; and that fome of thofe on the left-hand, flowed into the Paratounca river, hs general direction from the bay, for the firft ten miles, is to the North, after which it turns to the Weitward: this bend excepted, it preferves, for the moft part, a ftraight courfe ; and the country, through which it flows, to the diftance of near thirty miles from the fea, is low and flat, and fubjccT: to frequent, inundations. We were pufhed forward by fix men, with long poles, three at each end of the boat; two of whom were coffacks, the others Kamtfchadales; and advanced, againft a flrong ftream, at the rate, as well as I could judge, of about three miles an.hour. Our Kamtfchadales bore this fevere labour, with great ftoutnefs, for ten hours; during, which we flopped only once, and that for a fhort time, whilft they took fome little refrefhment. As we had been told, at our firft fetting out in the morning, that we fhould eafily reach an Oftrog, called Karatchin, the fame night, we were much difappointcd to find ourfelvcs, at fun fet, fifteen miles from that place. This we attributed to the delay oc-cafioned in palling the fhoals we had met with, both at the entrance of the river, and in feveral other places, as we proceeded up it: for our boat being the firft that had paffed up the the river, the guides were not acquainted with the fituation of the fhifting fand-banks, and unfortunately the fnow not having yet begun to melt, the fhallownefs of the river was at its extreme. The fatigue our men had already undergone, and the difficulty of navigating the river, which would have been much increafed by the darknefs of the night, obliged us to give up all thoughts of continuing our journey that evening. Having therefore found a place tolerably fheltered, and cleared it of the fnow, we erected a fmall marquee, which we had brought with us; and, by the afTitlancc of a brink fire, and fome good punch, pafled the night not very un-pleafantly. The only inconvenience we laboured under was, the being obliged to make the fire at fome diflance from us. For, although the ground was, to all appearance, dry enough before, yet when the fire was lighted, it foon thawed all the parts round it into an abfolute puddle. We admired much the alertnefs and expedition with which the Kamtfchadales erected our marquee, and cooked our provifions ; but what was mod unexpected, we found they had brought with them their tea-kettles, confidering it as the greateft of hardfhips not to drink tea two or three times a day. We fet out as foon as it was light, in the morning, and had not advanced far, before we were met by the To ion, or Chief of Karatchin, who had been apprized of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river. A commodious velTel, confiding of two canoes, lafhed clofe together with crofs fpars, lined with bear-fkins, and fur-uilhed with fur cloaks, was alfo provided for us. We now went May* wcnt on veiT rapidly, the Toioris people being both flout and —v-' frefh, and remarkable for their expertnefs in this bufinefs. At ten we got to the OJlrog, the feat of his command, where we were received at the water-fide by the Kamtfchadale men and women, and fome Ruffian fervants belonging to Fedo-litfch, who were employed in making canoes. They were all dreffed out in their befl clothes. Thofe of the women were pretty and gay, confiding of a full loofe robe, of white nankeen, gathered clofe round the neck, and fadened with a collar of coloured filk. Over this they wore a fhort jacket, without ileeves, made of different coloured nankeens, and petticoats of a llight Chinefe filk- Their fhifts, which had ileeves down to the wrifls, were alfo of filk; and coloured filk handkerchiefs were bound round their heads, concealing entirely the hair of the married women, whilfl thofe who were unmarried, brought the handkerchief under the hair, and fuffered it to flow loofe behind- This oftrog was pleafantly fituated by the fide of the river; and confided of three log-houfes; three jowts, or houfes made under ground j and nineteen balagans, or fummer habitations. We were conducted to the dwelling of the Toion, who was a plain decent man, born of a Ruflian woman, by a Kamtfchadale father. His houfe, like all the refl in this country, was divided into two apartments. A long narrow table, with a bench round it, was all the furniture wc faw in the outer; and the houfchold fluff of the inner, which was the kitchen, was not lefs fimple and fcanty. But the kind attention of our hod, and the hearty welcome we received, more than compenfated for the poverty of his lodgings. His His wife proved an excellent cook; and ferved us with fifh and game of different forts, and various kinds of heath-berries, that had been kept fince the laft year. Whilft wc were at dinner in this mifcrable hut, the guefts of a people, with whofe exiftencc we had before been fcarce acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a folitary, half-worn pewter fpoon, whofe fhape was familiar to us, attracted our attention ; and, on examination, we found it ftamped on the back with the word London. I cannot pafs over this circumftance in filence, out of gratitude for the many pleafant thoughts, the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances it excited in us. Thofe, who have experienced the effects that long abfence and extreme diftance from their native country produce on the mind, will readily conceive the pleafure fuch trifling incidents can give. To the philo-fopher and the politician they may perhaps fuggeft reflections of a different nature. We were now to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on fledges; but the thaw had been too powerful in the day-time, to allow us to fet out, till the cold of the evening had again made the fur face of the fnow hard and firm. This gave us an opportunity of walking about the village, which was the only place we had yet feen free from fnow fince we landed in this country. It flood upon a well-wooded flat, of about a mile and a half in circumference. The leaves were juft budding, and the verdure of the whole fcene was ftrongly contrasted with the fides of the furrounding hills, which wTcre ftill covered with fnow. As the foil appeared to mc very capable of producing all the common forts of garden vegetables, I was greatly furprifed not to find the fmalleft fpot any where cultivated. If to this we add, that none of the inhabitants were pofleffed of cattle of any fort, nothing can be well conceived more Vol. III. D d wretched wretched than their fituation mud be during the winter months. They were at this time removing from theirjourts into their balagans, which afforded us an opportunity of.examining both thefe forts of habitations; and they will be hereafter more particularly defcribed. The people invited us into their houfes with great good humour; a general air of chcerfulncfs and content was every where vifible, to which the approaching change of feafon might probably not a little contribute. On our return to the Toion9s> we found fupper prepared for us, which differed in nothing from our former rcpaft; and concluded with our treating the Toion and his wife with fome of the fpirits, we had brought with us, made into punch, Captain Gore, who had great generofity on all ocr caflons, having afterward made them fome valuable prefents, they retired to the kitchen, leaving us in poffcffion of the outward room, where, fpreading our bear-fkins on the benches, we were glad to get a little repofe, having fettled with our conductors to rcfume our journey, as foon as the ground fhould be judged fit for travelling, About nine o'clock, the fame evening, we were awakened by the melancholy howlings of the dogs, which continued all the time our baggage was ladling upon the fledges ; but, as foon as they were yoked, and we were all prepared to fet out, this changed into a light cheerful yelping, which intirely ceafed the inilant they marched off. But, before we fet out, the Reader may expect to be made more particularly acr cjuainted with this curious mode of travelling. The figure of the Hedges will be bed conceived by the annexed engraving, which was taken from one 1 brought over with me, that is now in the poffeflion of Sir Afhton Lever. The body is about four feet and a half long, and a foot wide, made in the form of a crefcent, of light tough 2 wood, wood, ftrongly bound together with wicker work ; which in thofe belonging to the better fort of people is elegantly flamed of a red and blue colour, and the feat covered with bear-fkins, or other furs. It is fupported by four legs, about two feet high, which reft on two long flat pieces of wood, live or fix inches broad, extending a foot at each end beyond the body of the fledge. Thefe are turned up before in the manner of a fkate, and fliod with the bone of fome fea animal. The fore-part of the carriage is ornamented with thongs of leather and taffels of coloured cloth j and from the croft bar, to which the harnefs is joined, are hung links of iron, or fmall bells, the jingling of which they conceive to be encouraging to the dogs. They are feldom ufed to carry more than one perfon at a time, who fits afide, refting his feet on the lower part of the fledge, and carrying his provifions and other neceffarics, wrapped up in a bundle, behind him. The dogs are ufually five in number, yoked two and two, with a leader. The reins not being faflcned to the head of the dogs, but to the collar, have little power over them, and are therefore generally hung upon the fledge, whilft the driver depends entirely on their obedience to his voice for the direction of them. With this view, the leader is always trained up with a particular degree of care and attention ; fome of them riling to a moil extraordinary value on account of their docility and fleadinefs ; infomuch, that for one of* thefe, I am well affured, forty roubles (or ten pounds) was no unufual price. The driver is alfo provided with a crooked flick, which anfwers the purpofe both of whip and reins; as by ftriking it into the fnow, he is enabled to moderate the fpeed of the dogs, or even to flop them entirely ; and when they are lazy, or othcrwife inattentive to his voice, he chaf-tifes them by throwing it at them. Upon thefe occafions, their dexterity in picking it up again is very remarkable, D d 2 and and forms the principal difficulty of their art. But it is indeed not furprifing, that they fhould labour to be fkil-ful in a practice upon which their fafety fo materially depends. For they fay, that if the driver fhould happen to lofe his flick, the dogs will inflantly perceive it; and unlefs their leader be of the mofl fober and refolute kind, they will immediately run a-head full fpeed, and never flop till they are quite fpent. But as that will not be the cafe foon, it generally happens, that either the carriage is overturned, and dafhed to pieces againft the trees, or they hurry down fome precipice, and are all buried in the fnow. The accounts that were given us of the fpeed of thefe dogs, and of their extraordinary patience of hunger and fatigue, were fcarcely credible, if they had not been fupported by the befl authority. We were indeed ourfelves witneffes of the great expedition with which the meffenger, who had been dif-patched to Bolcheretfk with the news of our arrival, returned to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, though the fnow was, at this time, exceedingly foft. But I was informed, by the Commander of Kamtfchatka, that this journey was generally performed in two days and a half; and that he had once received an exprefs from the latter place in i w c n t y-1hrec hou r s. The dogs are fed, during the winter, on the offals of dried and finking fifh ; but are always deprived of this mi-forablc food, a day before they fet out on a journey, ana" never fuffered to cat before they reach the end of it. We were alio told, that it was not unufual for them to continue thus fading two entire days, in which time they would perform a journey of one hundred and twenty miles *. Thefe dogs * ICxtraorcnnary as this may appear, KrafchininiJcoiT, whofe account of Kamt-khatka, from every t&ng that I faw, and had an opportunity of comparing it with, feems dogs are, in thape, fome what like the Pomeranian breed, but confiderably larger. As we did not choofe to trull to our own fkill, we had each of us a man to drive and guide the fledge, which, from the ftate the roads were now in, proved a very laborious bulinefs. For, as the thaw had advanced very confiderably in the vallies, through which our road lay, we were under the neceflity of keeping along the fides of the hills j and this obliged our guides, who were provided with fnow-fhoes for that purpofe, to fupport the fledges, on the lower fide, with their moulders, for feveral miles together. I had a very good-humoured Coffack to attend me, who was, however, fo very unfkilful in his bufinefs, that we were overturned almofl every minute, to the great entertainment of the reft of the company. Our party confided, in all, of ten fledges. That in which Captain Gore was carried, was made of two lafhed together, and abundantly provided with furs and bear-fkins ; it had ten dogs, yoked four abrcaft; as had alfo fome of thofe that were heavy laden with baggage. When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to lain; which, added to the darknefs of the night, threw us all into confufion. It was at laft agreed, that we fhould remain, where we were, till day-light; and accordingly we came to anchor in the fnow (for I cannot better exprefs the manner in which the fledges were fecurcd), and wrapping kerns to me to deferve entire credit; and whofe authority /foall, therefore, frequently have recourfe to; relates inftances of this kind, that are much more furprifing. " Travelling parties," fays he, " are often overtaken with dreadful dorms of fnow, .-■ on the approach of which, they drive, with the utmo/i precipitation, into the near eft' " wood, and there are obliged to ftay, till the tcmpeft, which frequently lafts fix or " feven days, is over ; the dogs remaining all this while quiet and inoftenftvej ex-" cept that, fometimes, when prcft by hunger, they will devour their reins, and the " other leathern parts of the harnefs." Hijiory and Dtf rift ion of Kamtfchatka, by Krafchiniuihjf. i ourfelvcs ©urfelves up in our furs, waited patiently for the morning. About three o'clock we were called on to fet out, our guides being apprehenfive, that if we waited longer, we might be Hopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed, nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were principally occafioned by the bad condition of the road, at two in the afternoon, we got fafe to an ofirog, called Nat-cheekin, fituated on the fide of a fmall flream, which falls into the Bolchoireka, a little way below the town. The diflance between Karatchin and Natcheekin is thirty-eight wafts (or twenty-five miles); and had the hard froft continued, we fhould not, by their account, have been more than four hours in performing it; but the fnow was fo foft, that the dogs, almoft at every flcp, funk up to their bellies; and I was indeed much furprifed at their being at all able to overcome the difficulties of fo fatiguing a journey. Natcheekin is a very inconfiderable cftrog, having only one log-houfe, the refidcnce of the Town; five balagans, and one jourt. We were received here with the fame formalities, and in the fame hofpitable manner, as at Karatchin ; and in the afternoon we went to vifit a remarkable hot fpring, which is near this village. We faw, at fome diftance, the fleam rifing from it, as from a boiling caldron; and as wc approached, perceived the air had a ftrong fulphureous fmell. The main fpring forms a bafon of about three feet in diameter ; befides which, there are a number of leflcr fprings, of the fame degree of heat, in the adjacent ground; fo that the whole fpot, to the extent of near an acre, was fo hot, that wc could not fland two minutes in the fame place. The water flowing from thefe fprings is collected in a fmall bathing pond, and afterward forms a little rivulet; which, at the diftance of about an hundred and fifty yards falls into the river. The bath, they told us, had wrought great cures cures in feveral diforders, fuch as rheumatifms, fwelled and '779- May. contracted joints, and fcorbutic ulcers. In the bathing- ^—j place the thermometer flood at ioo°, or blood heat; but in the fpring, after being immerfed two minutes, it was 1 above boiling fpirits. The thermometer in the air, at this time, was 340; in the river 40°; and in the Toiorfs houfe 64*. The ground where thefe fprings break out, is on a gentle afcent; behind which there is a green hill of a moderate fize. I am forry I was not fuflicicntly fkilled in botany to examine the plants, which feemed to thrive here with great luxuriance ; the wild garlic, indeed, forced itfelf on our notice, and was at this time fpringing up very vigoroufly. The next morning, we embarked on the Bolchoireka in Monday 1^. canoes ; and, having the flream with us, expected to be at our journey's end the day following. The town of Bolcheretfk is about eighty miles from Natcheekin; and we were informed, that, in the fummer feafon, when the river has been full and rapid, from the melting of fnow on the mountains, the canoes had often gone down in a fingle day ; but that, in its prefent flate, we fhould probably be much longer, . as the ice had broken up only three days before we arrived; and that ours would be the firft boat that had attempted to pafs. This intelligence proved but too true. . We found ourfelves greatly impeded by the mallows; and though the flream, in many places, ran with great rapidity, yet every half mile, we had ripplings and fhoals, over which we were obliged to haul the boats. The country, on each fide, was very romantic, but unvaried ; the river running between mountains of the molt craggy and barren afpect, where there was nothing to divcrfify the fcene; but now and then the fight of a bear, and the flights of wild-fowl. ♦So uninterelting a paffage leaves me nothing farther to fay, . than , 1779- than that this, and the following night, we flept on the May. «-i-» banks of the river, under our marquee; and fuffered very Tuefday ii. from tne feverity of the weather, and the fnow, which ftill remained on the ground. wednef. 12. At day-light on the 12th, we found we had got clear of the mountains, and were entering a low extenfive plain, covered with fhrubby trees. About nine in the forenoon, we arrived at an oftr,gt called Opatchin, which is computed to be fifty miles from r atcheekin, and is nearly of the fame fize as Karatchin. We found here a ferjeant with four Ruffian foldiers, who had been two days waiting for our arrival; and who immediately difpatched a light boat to Bolcheretfk, with intelligence of our approach. Wc were now put into the trammels of formality; a canoe, furnifhed with fkins and furs, and equipped in a magnificent manner, was prepared for our reception, in which we were accommodated much at our eafe, but to the exclufion of the refl of our fellow-travellers. It was with much regret we found ourfelvcs obliged to feparate from our old companion Monfieur Port, whom we had obferved to grow every day more fhy and diftant, as we drew nearer the end of our journey. Indeed, he had himfelf told us, before we fet out, that we paid him a refpect he had no title to; but as we found him a very modeft and difcrect man, we had infilled on his living with us during the whole of our journey. The remainder of our paflage was performed with great facility and expedition, the river growing more rapid, as we de-feended, and lefs obftructed by fhoals. As we approached the capital, we were forry to obferve, from an appearance of much ftir and buftle, that wc were 10 be received in form. Decent clothes had been, for fome time, time, a fcarce commodity amongft usj and our travelling dreffes were made up of a burlefque mixture of European, Indian, and Kamtfchatdale fafhions. We therefore thought it would be too ridiculous to make a parade in this trim through the metropolis of Kamtfchatka; and as we faw a crowd collected on the banks of the river, and were told the Commander would be at the water-fide to receive us, we flopped fhort at a foldier's houfe, about a quarter of a mile from the town, from whence we fent Port with a melTagc to his Excellency, acquainting him, that the moment we had put off our travelling drefles, we would pay our refpects to him at his own houfe ; and to beg he would not think of waiting to conduct us. Finding, however, that he pcrftfled in his intentions of paying us this compliment, we loft no farther time in attiring ourfelves, but made all the hafle in our power to join him at the entrance of the town. I obferved my companions to be as awkward as I felt myfelf, in making our firft falutations ; bowing and fcraping being marks of good-breeding that we had now, for two years and a half, been totally unaccuftomed to. The manner in which we were received by the Commander, was the moft engaging that could be conceived, and increafed my mortification, at finding, that he had almofl entirely forgot the French language ; fo that the fatisfaction of converting with him was wholly confined to Mr. Webber, who fpoke the German, his native tongue. In company with Major Behm, was Captain Shmaleff, the fecond in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They conducted us to the Commander's houfe, where we were received by his lady with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared for us. After the firft compliments were Vol. III. E e over, over, Mr. Webber was defired to acquaint the Major with the object of our journey, with our want of naval ffores, flour, and frefh provifions, and other neceffaries for the fhips crews; and at the fame time to affure him, that we were fenfible, from what we had already feen of the condition of the country about Awatfka Bay, we could not expect much afliftance from him in that quarter ; that the impof-fibility of fending heavy flores acrofs the peninfula, during the prefent feafon of the year, was but too apparent, from the difficulties we had met with in our journey; and that, long before any material change could take place, wc fhould be under the necefTity of proceeding on our voyage. We were here interrupted by the Commander, who obferved, that we did not yet know what they were capable of doing; that, at lcaft, it was not his bulinefs to think of the difficulties of fupplying our wants, but only to learn what were the articles wc flood in need of, and the longcft time we could allow him, for procuring them. After exprefling our fenfe of his obliging difpofition, we gave him a lilt of the naval flores, the number of cattle, and the quantity of flour, we were directed to purchafe, and told him, that we purpofed recommencing our voyage about the 5th of June. Our convcrfation afterward turned upon different fubjects; and it will naturally be fuppofed, that our inquiries were principally directed to the obtaining fome information rc-fpecting our own country. Having now been abfent three years, we had flattered ourfelvcs with the certainty of receiving intelligence from Major Behm, which could not fail of being interefling; and 1 cannot cxprefs the disappointment wc felt, on finding, that he had no news to communicate nicatc of a much later date than that of our departure from England. About feven o'clock, the Commander, conceiving we might be fatigued with our journey, and defirous of taking fome repofc, begged he might conduct us to our lodgings. It was in vain that we protcfted againfl a compliment which we had certainly no title to expect, but that of being (hangers; a circumftance which feemed, in the opinion of this generous Livonian, to counterbalance every other confederation. In our way, wc paffed by two guard-houfes, where the men were turned out under arms, in compliment to Captain Gore; and were afterward brought to a very neat and decent houfe, which the Major gave us to underftand was to be our refidence, during our flay. Two fentinels were polled at the door; and in a houfe adjoining, there was a ferjeant's guard. Having fliewn us into our apartments, the Major took his leave, with a promife to fee us the next day; and we were left to find out, at our leifure, all the conveniencies that he had mofl amply provided for us. A foldier, called a putpropcrfckack> whofe rank is between that of a ferjeant and corporal, along with our fellow-traveller Port, were appointed to be our male domeftics; befides whom, there was a houfe-keeper and a cook, who had orders to obey Port's directions in dreffing us a fupper, according to our own mode of cookery. Wc received many civil meffages, in the courfe of the evening, from the principal people of the town, purporting, that they would not add to our fatigues, by paying their refpects to us at that time, but would wait on us in the morning. Such well-ftipportcd politencfs and attention in a country fo defolate and uncultivated, formed a contrail exceedingly favourable to its inhabitants; and to finifh the piece as it began, at fun-fct the E c 2 ferjeant May' ferjeant came with the report of his guard to Captain i—Gore. Thurfdayi3. Early in the morning, we received the compliments of the Commander, of Captain Shmaleff, and of the principal inhabitants of the town, who all honoured us with vilits foon after. The two firft having fent for Tort, after we were gone to reft, and inquired of him, what articles we feemed to be moft in want of on board the mips ; we found them prepared to infift on our fharing with the garrifon under their command, in what little flock of provifions they had remaining. At the fame time they lamented, that we had arrived at a feafon of the year, when there was always the greatell fcarcity of every thing amongft them; the floops not being yet arrived, with their annual fupply, from Okotfk. We agreed to accept the liberality of thefe hofpitable flrangers, with the befl grace we could; but on condition, that we might be made acquainted with the price of the articles we were to be fupplied with ; and that Captain Clerke fhould give bills to the amount, upon the Victualling Office in London. This the Major pofitivcly refufed ; and whenever it was afterward urged, flopped us fhort, by telling us, he was certain, that he could not oblige his Miftrefs more, than in giving every aftiftance in his power to her good friends and allies the Englifh; and that it would be a particular fatisfaction to her, to hear, that in fo remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief to fhips engaged in fuch fervices as ours ; that he could not therefore act fo contrary to the character of his Emprefs, as to accept of any bills; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare atteftation of the particulars, with which which we might be furnished ; and that this he fhould »779- r May. tranfmit to his Court, as a certificate of having performed i- his duty. I fhall leave (he continued) to the two Courts, all farther acknowledgments ; but cannot confent to accept any thing of the kind alluded to. When this matter was adjufted, he began to inquire about our private wants ; faying, he fhould confuler himfelf as ill ufed, if we had any dealings with the merchants, or applied to any other perfon except himfelf. In return for fuch lingular generofity, we had little to beflow but our admiration and our thanks. Fortunately, however, Captain Clerke had fent by me a fet of prints and maps, belonging to the laft voyage of Captain Cook, which he defircd me to prefent in his name to the Commander; who being an enthufiafl in every thing relating to difcove-ries, received it with a fatisfaction which fhewed, that, though a trifle, nothing could have been more acceptable. Captain Clerke had likewife intrufled me with a dilcrction-ary power of mewing him a chart of the difcoveries made in the prefent voyage ; and as I judged, that a perlbn in his fituation, and of his turn of mind, would be exceedingly gratified by a communication of this fort, though, out of delicacy, he had forborn to alk more than a few general qucflions on the fubject, I made no fcruple to repofe in him a confidence, of which his whole conduct fhewed him to be deferving. I had the plcafurc to find, that he felt this compliment as I hoped he would, and was much ftruck at feeing, in one view, the whole of that coafl, as well on the fide of Alia as on that of America, of which his countrymen had been fo many 7 years years employed in acquiring a partial and imperfect knowledge*. Excepting this mark of confidence, and the fet of prints I have already mentioned, we had brought nothing with us that was in the lead worth his acceptance; for it fcarce defervcs noticing, that I prevailed on his fon, a young boy, to accept of a filvcr watch I happened to have about me; and I made his little daughter very happy wiih two pair of ear-rings, of French pafle. Befides thefe trifles, I left with Captain Shmaleff the thermometer I had ufed on my journey ; and he promifed mc, to keep an exact: regifter of the temperature of the air for one year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. Muller, with whom he had the plcafure of being acquainted. We dined this day at the Commander's, who, fludious on every occafion to gratify our curiofity, had, befides a number of difhes dreffed in our own way, prepared a great variety of others, after the Ruffian and Kamtfchadale manner. The afternoon was employed in taking a view of the town, and the adjacent country. Bolcheretfk is fituated in a low fwampy plain, that extends to the fea of Okotfk, being about forty miles long, and of a confiderable breadth. It * On this occafion, Major Bchm permitted us to examine all the maps and charts that were in his polTeflion. Thofe relating to the peninfulaof the Tfchutfki, were made in conformity to the information collected by Plcnifimcr, between the years 1760 and 1770. As the charts of Plenifliner were afterward made ufe of, according to Mr. Coxe, in the compilation of the General Map of Ruffia, publifhed by the Academy in 1776, it may be ncccflary to obfervc, that we found them exceedingly erroneous; and that the compilers of the General Map feem to have been led into fome miftakes on his authority. Thofe, in which the iflands on the coaft of America were laid down, we found to contain nothing new, and to be much lefs accurate than thofe we faw at Oonalaflika. lies lies on the North fide of the Bolchoi-reka (or great river), ^79- between the mouth of the Gottfof ka and the Biftraia, which 1-„—-j here empty themfelves into this river j and the peninfula, on which it Hands, has been feparated from the continent by a large canal, the work of the prefent Commander; which has not only added much to its flrength as a fortrefs, but has made it much lefs liable, than it was before, to inundations. Below the town, the river is from fix to eight feet deep, and about a quarter of a mile broad. It empties itfelf into the fea of Okotfk, at the diflance of twenty-two miles; where, according to Kralheninicoff, it is capable of admitting veffels of a considerable fize. There is no corn, of any fpecies, cultivated in this part of the country ; and Major Behm informed me, that his was the only garden that had yet been planted. The ground was, for the mofl part, covered with fnow; that which was free from it appeared full of fmall hillocks, of a black turfy nature. I faw about twenty or thirty cows; and the Major had fix flout horfes. Thefe, and their dogs, are the only tame animals they pof-fefs; the neceflity they are under, in the prefent ftate of the country, of keeping great numbers of the latter, making it impoffible to bring up any cattle, that are not in fize and flrength a match for them. For, during the fummer fca-fon, their dogs are entirely let loofe, and left to provide for themfelves; which makes them fo exceedingly ravenous, that they will fometimes even attack the bullocks. The houfes in Bolcheretfk are all of one fafhion, being built of logs, and thatched. That of the Commander is much larger than the rell, confiding of three rooms of a confidcrable fize, neatly papered, and which might have been reckoned handfomc, if the idle with which the win-3 dows 1779- dows were covered, had not given them a poor and dif- —=-1 agreeable appearance. The town confifts of feveral rows of low buildings, each confiding of five or fix dwellings, connected together, with a long common paflage running the length of them ; on one fide of which is the kitchen and llore-houfe ; and on the other the dwelling apartments. Befides thefe, are barracks for the Ruffian foldiers and Cof-facks ; a well looking church; and a court-room j and at the end of the town a great number of Balagans, belonging to the Kamtfchadales. 'fhe inhabitants, taken all together, amount to between five and fix hundred. In the evening, the Major gave a handfome entertainment ; to which the principal people of the town, of both fexes, were invited. day 14. The next morning we applied privately to the merchant Fedofitfch, to purchafe fome tobacco for the failors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all our other tranfactions of the fame kind, came immediately to the Major's knowledge ; and we were foon after furprifed to find, in our houfe, four bags of tobacco, weighing upward of a hundred pounds each, which he begged might be prefented, in the name of himfelf, and the garrifon under his command, to our failors. At the fame time, they had fent us twenty loaves of fine fugar, and as many pounds of tea, being articles they underflood we were in great want of, which they begged to be indulged in prefenting to the officers. Along with thefe, Madame Behm had alfo fent a prefent for Captain Clerke, confiding of frefli butter, honey, figs, rice, and fome other little things of the fame kind, attended with many wifhes, that, in his infirm date of health, they might be of fervice to him. It was in vain wTe tried to oppofe this profufion of bounty, which I was really anxious to redrain, being being convinced, that they were giving away, not a fhare, but almoft the whole flock of the garrifon. The conflant anfwcr the Major returned us, on thofe occafions, was, that we had fu fife red a great deal, and that we mufl needs be in diftrefs. Indeed, the length of time we had been out, fince we touched at any known port, appeared to them fo very incredible, that it required the teflimony of our maps, and other corroborating circumflances, to gain their belief. Amongfl the latter was a very curious fact which Major Behm related to us this morning, and which, he faid, but for our arrival, he fhould have been totally at a lofs to account for. It is well known, that the Tfchutfki are the only people, of the North of Afia, who have maintained their independence, and refilled all the attempts that have been made by the Ruffians to reduce them. The laft expedition againfl them was undertaken in the year 1750, and terminated, after various fuccefs, in the retreat of the Ruffian forces, and the lofs of the commanding officer. Since that time, the Ruffians had removed their frontier fortrefs from the Anadyr to the Ingiga, a river that empties itfelf into the Northern extremity of the fea of Okotfk, and gives its name # to a gulf, fituated to the Wefl of that of Penfhinfk. From this fort, Major Behm had received difpatches the day of our arrival at Bolcheretfk, containing intelligence, that a tribe, or party, of the Tfchutfki, had arrived at that place with propofitions of friendfhip, and a voluntary offer of tribute ; that on inquiring into the caufe of this unexpected alteration in their fentiments, they had informed his people, that toward the latter end of the laft fummer they had been vi-fited by two very large Ruffian boats that they had been Vol. IH. F f treated treated by the people, who were in them, witli the greatefl kindnefs, and had entered into a league of friendfhip and amity with them; and that, relying on this friendly dif-pofition, they were now come to the Ruffian fort, in order to fettle a treaty, on fuch terms as might be acceptable to both nations. This extraordinary hiflory had occafioned much fpeculation, both at Ingiginfk and Bolcheretfk; and, had we not furnifhed them with a key to it, mufl have remained perfectly unintelligible. We felt no fmall fatisfaction in having, though accidentally, fhewn the Ruffians, in this inftance, the only true way of collecting tribute, and extending their dominions ; and in the hopes that the good underflanding, which this event hath given rife to, may re-fcue a brave people from the future invafions of fuch powerful neighbours. We dined, this day, with Captain ShmalelT, and in the afternoon, in order to vary our amufements, he treated us with an exhibition of the Ruffian and Kamtfchadale dancing. No defcription can convey an adequate idea of this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the Ruffian dance was much like thofe of our hornpipes, and was danced either fingle, or by two or four perfons at a time. Their ileps were fhort and quick, with the feet fcarce raifed from I the ground; the arms were fixed clofe to the fides ; the body being all the while kept upright and immoveable, excepting when the parties paffed each other, at which time the hand was railed with a quick and awkward motion. But if the Ruffian dance was at the fame time both unmeaning and ridiculous, the Kamtfchadale joined to the latter quality the mod whimfical idea that ever entered into any people's heads. It is intended to reprefent the awkward and clumfy 1 geflurcs geflures of the bear, which thefe people have frequent op- portunities of obfcrving in a great variety of utuations. It <-r—-j will fcarcely be expected that I mould give a minute defcription of all the ffrange poflurcs which were exhibited on thefe occafions; and I fhall therefore only mention, that the body was always bowed, and the knees bent, whihl the arms were ufed in imitating the tricks and attitudes of that animal. As our journey to Bolcheretfk had taken up more time than we expected, and we were told that our return might prove ftill more difficult and tedious, we were under the ne-ceffity of acquainting the commander, this evening, with our intention of fetting out the next day. It was not without the utmofl regret we thought of leaving our new acquaintance ; and were therefore mofl agreeably furprifed, when the Major told us, that if we could flay one day longer, he would accompany us. He had, he faid, made up his difpatches, and refigned the command of Kamtfchatka to his fucceflbr Captain Shmaleff, and had prepared every thing for his departure to Okotfk, which was to take place in a few days; but that he fhould feel great pleafure in putting off his journey a little longer, and returning with us to Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, that he might himfelf be a witnefs of every thing being done for us, that it was in their power to do. In return for the few trifles I had given to the children of Major Behm, I was, next morning, the 15th, prefented, by Saturday his little boy, with a mofl magnificent Kamtfchadale drefs? which fhall be defcribed in its proper place. It was of the kind worn by the principal Toions of the country, on occa- F f 2 fions May* nons °f great ceremony; and, as I was afterward told, by u.—Fedofitfch, could not have been purchafed for one hundred and twenty roubles. At the fame time I had a prefent from his daughter, of a handfomc fable muff. We afterward dined with the Commander, who, in order to let us fee as much of the manners of the inhabitants, and of the cuftoms of the country, as our time would permit, invited the whole of the better fort of people in the village to his houfe this evening. All the women appeared very fplendidly dreffed, after the Kamtfchadale fafhion. The wives of Captain ShmalcfF, arid the other officers of the gar-rifon, were prettily dreffed, half in the Siberian, and half in the European mode ; and Madame Behm, in order to make the ftronger contrail, had unpacked part of her baggage, and put on a rich European drefs. I was much flruck with the richnefs and variety of the filks which the women wore, and the Angularity of their habits. The whole was like fome enchanted fcenc in the midil of the wildefl and mod dreary country in the world. Our entertainment again confided of dancing and ringing. The next morning being fixed for our departure, we retired early to our lodgings, where the firft things \Ve faw were three travelling dreiles, made after the fafliion of the country, which the Major had provided for us, who came himfelf to our houfe foon after, to fee all our things packed up, and properly taken care of. Indeed, what with his liberal prefents, and the kindnefs of Captain ShmalcfF, and many other individuals, who all begged to throw in their mite, together with the ample dock of provifions he had fent us for our journey, we had amaffed noinconfidcrable load of baggage. 5 Early Early in the morning, every thing being ready for our l779« , m May. departure, we were invited to call on Madame Behm, in <--- our way to the boats, and take our leave of her. ImprelTed, Sundayi6 as our minds were, with fentiments of the warmed gratitude, by the attentive, benevolent, and generous treatment we had met with at Bolcheretfk, they were greatly heighten* ed, by the affecting fccne which prefented itfelf to us, on leaving our lodgings. All the foldiers and Coflacks, belonging to the garrifon, were drawn up on one hand, and the male inhabitants of the town, dreffed out in their bed clothes, on the other; and, as foon as we came out of the houfe, the whole body of the people joined in a melancholy fang, which, the Major told us, it was ufual, in that country, to fmg on taking leave of their friends. In this manner we marched down to the Commander's houfe, preceded by the drums and mufic of the garrifon, where we were received by Madame Behm, attended by the ladies, who were dreffed in long filk cloaks, lined with very valuable furs of different colours, which made a mod magnificent appearance. After partaking of fome rcfrefhmcnt, that was prepared for us, we went down to the water-fide, accompanied by the ladies, who now joined the fong with the red of the inhabitants , and as foon as wc had taken leave of Madame. Behm, and affured her of the grateful fenfe we fhould ever retain of the hofpitality of Bolcheretfk, we found ourfclves too much affected, not to haflen into the boats with all the expedition wc could. When we put off, the whole company gave us three cheers, which we returned from the boat; and, as we were doubling a point, where for the lad time we faw our friendly entertainers^ they took their fare-wcl in another cheer. We 222 AVOYAGETO 1779- We found the flream, on our return, fo exceedingly rapid May. 0 J *■ y-i-' that notwithstanding the CofTacks and Kamtfchadales ufed their utmoft exertions, we did not reach the firft village, Monday 17. Opatchin, till the evening of the 17th, which was at the rate of about twenty miles a day- We got to Natcheekin on the wednef. 19. jgth; and, on the 20th, we croffed the plain to Karatchin* Thurfday2o. We found the road much better than when we had paffed it before, there having been a fmart frofl on the night of Friday 21. the iotli. On the 2 lit, we proceeded down the Awatfka River j and, before it was dark, got over the fhoals which lie at the entrance of the bay. During the whole courfe of our journey, we were much plealed with the great goodwill with which the To ions, and their Kamtfchadales, afforded us their afliflance, at the different ojlrogs through which we paffed; and I could not but obferve the pleafure that appeared in their countenances, on feeing the Major, and their flrong expreilions of forrow, on hearing he was fo foon going to leave them. We had difpatched a meflenger to Captain Clerke, from Bolcheretfk, with an account of our reception, and of the Major's intention of returning with us ; at the fame time, apprizing him of the day he might probably expect to fee us. We were therefore very well plcafcd to obferve, as we approached the harbour, all the boats of the two fhips coming toward us, the men clean, and the officers as well dreffed as the fcarcity of our clothing would permit. The Major was much ftruck at the robuit and healthy appearance of the boats crews, and flill more at feeing molt of them without any other covering than a fhirt and trowfers, although at the very moment it actually mowed. As T H E P A C I F I C O C E A N. 223 As Major Behm had expreffed his intentions of vifiting the fhips before he landed, as foon as we arrived off the \—-J-—» town, I defired to receive his commands ; when remarking, that from the account we had given of the very bad ftate of Captain Clerke's health, it might be imprudent to difturb him at fo late an hour (it being now paft nine o'clock), he thought it, he faid, moft advifeable to remain that night on fhore. Accordingly, after attending him to the ferjeant's houfe, I took my leave, for the prefent, and went on board to acquaint Captain Clerke with my proceedings at Bolcheretfk. It was with the utmoft concern I found, that in the fortnight we had been abfent, this excellent officer was much altered for the worfe, inflead of reaping that advantage we flattered ourfelves he might, from the repofe of the harbour, and the milk and vegetable diet with which he was fupplied. As foon as I had difpatched this bufinefs, I returned to the Saturday2Z* Major, and the next morning conducted him to the fhips ; where, on his arrival, he was faluted with thirteen guns, and received with every other mark of diftinction, that it was in our power to pay him. He was attended by the Commander of one of the Ruffian galliots, the mailer of a floop that lay in the harbour, two merchants from Bolcheretfk, and the prieft of the neighbouring village of Para-tounca, for whom he appeared to entertain the highelt refpedt, and whom I fhall hereafter have occafion to men-tion, on account of his great kindnefs to Captain Clerke. After vifiting the Captain, and taking a view of both the fliips, he returned to dinner on board the Refolution ; and, in the afternoon, the various curiofities we had collected in the courfe of our voyage, were fhewn him, and a complete affortment ailbrtmcnt of every article prefented to him by Captain Clerke. On this occafion. I muft not pafs over an infiance of great generofity and gratitude in the failors of both (hips • who, when they were told of the handfome prefent of tobacco that was made them by the Major, defired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be flopped, and their allowance of fpirits prefented, on their part, to the garrifon of Bolcheretfk, as they faid they had reafon to conclude that brandy was fcarce in the country, and would be very acceptable to them, fince the foldiers on fhore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. We, who knew how much the failors always felt, whenever their allowance of grog was flopped, which was generally done in warm weather, that they might have it in a greater proportion in cold, and that this offer would deprive them of it during the inclement feafon we had to expect in our next expedition to the North, could not but admire fo extraordinary a facrifice; and that they might not miter by it, Captain Clerke, and the refl qf the officers fubflituted in the room of the very fmall quantity the Major could be prevailed on to accept, the fame quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and fuch other little prefents as were in our power to bellow, were accepted in the mofl obliging manner. The next morning the tobacco was divided between the crews of the two fhips, three pounds being allotted to every man that chewed or fmoked tobacco, and one pound to thofe that did not. I have before mentioned, that Major Behm had refigned the command of Kamtfchatka, and intended to fet out in a fhort time for Peterfburg; and he now offered to charge himfelf with any difpatches we might trufl to his care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected ; and accordingly Captain tain Clerke acquainted him, that he would take the liberty of fending by him fome papers relating to our voyage, to 1— be delivered to our Ambaffador at the Ruffian court. Our firft intentions were to fend only a fmall journal of our proceedings 5 but afterward, Captain Clerke being perfuaded that the whole account of our .difcoveric^ might fafely be truflcd to a perfon who had given fuch finking proofs both of his public and private virtues; and confidering that we had a very hazardous part of the voyage ftill to undertake, determined to fend, by him, the whole of the journal of our late Commander, with that part of his own, which completed the period from Captain Cook's death, till our arrival at Kamtfchatka ; together with a chart of all our discoveries. Mr. Bayly, and myfelf, thought it alfo proper to fend a general account of our proceedings to the board of longitude ; by which precautions, if any misfortune had afterward befallen us, the Admiralty would have been in poffef-fion of a complete hiftory of the principal facts of our voyage. It was alio determined, that a fmaller pacquet fhould be fent by an exprefs from Okotfk, which, the Major faid, if he was fortunate in his paflage to that port, would reach Peterfburg by December; and that he himfelf fhould be there in February or March. During the three following days, the Major was entertained alternately in the two fhips, in the befl manner we were able. On the 25th, he took his leave, and was falutcd Thurfday2$. with thirteen guns; and the failors, at their own defire, gave him three cheers. The next morning, Mr. Webber, wednef, 26. and myfelf, attended him a few miles up the Awatfka River, where we met the Ruffian prieft, his wife and children, who were waiting to take the laft farewel of their commander. Vol. III. G g It It was hard to fay, whether the good pried and his family, or ourfelvcs, were moft affected on taking our leave of Major Behm. Short as our acquaintance had been, his noble and diiinterefled conduct had infpircd us with the high-eft refpect and efleem for him; and we could not part with a perfon to whom wc were under fuch obligations, and whom we had little profpect of ever feeing again, without feeling the moil tender concern. The intrinfic value of the private prefents we received from him, exclufive of the flores which might be carried to a public account, muft have amounted, according to the current price of articles in that country, to upward of two hundred pounds. But this generofity, extraordinary as it mull appear in itfelf, was exceeded by the delicacy with which all his favours were conferred, and the artful manner in which he endeavoured to prevent our feeling the weight of obligations, which he knew we had no means of requiting. If we go a flop further, and confider him as fupporting a public character, and maintaining the honour of a great Sovereign, we fhall find a Hill higher fubject of admiration, in the juft and enlarged fentiments by which he was actuated. '* The fervicc in " which you are employed," he wrould often fay, " is for <* the general advantage of mankind, and therefore gives M you aright, not merely to the offices of humanity, but to «■ the privileges of citizens, in whatever country you may be thrown. I am fure I am acting agreeably to the wifhes *4 of my Miflrefs, in affording you all the relief in our " power; and I cannot forget cither her character, or my own honour, fo much, as to barter for the performance 44 of a du'y." At other times, he would tell us, that he was particularly defirous of fetting a good example to the Kamtfchadales, who, he faid, were but juft emerging from a flate a ftate of barbarifm; that they looked up to the Ruffians as their patterns in every thing ; and that he had hopes they might, in future, look upon it as a duty incumbent upon them to aflifl ftrangers to the utmoft of their power, and believe, that fuch was the univerfal practice of civilized nations. To all this muft be added, that, after having relieved, to the utmoft of his abilities, all our prefent diftreffes, he fhewed himfelf not much lefs mindful of our future wants ; and, as he fuppofed it more than probable we fhould not difcover the paffage we were in fearch of, and therefore fhould return to Kamtfchatka in the fall of the year, he made Captain Clerke give him a lift of what cordage and flour we fhould want, and promifed they fhould be fent from Okotfk, and wait our arrival. For the fame purpofe, he gave Captain Clerke a paper, enjoining all the fubjeets of the Emprefs, whom we might happen to meet, to give us every affiftance in their power. Gg 2 C H A P. CHAP. III. Continuation of TranfaBions in the Harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul.—Abundance of Fijh.—Death of a Seaman belonging to the Refolution.—The Ruffian Hofpitalput under the Care of the Ship's Surgeons.—Supply of Flour and Cattle.—Celebration of the King's Birth-day.— Difficulties in failing out of the Bay.—Erupt io?i of a Volcano.—Steer to the Northward.—Cheepoonfkoi Nofs. —Errors of the Ruffian Charts.—Kamtjchatfkoi Nofs. —Olutorfkoi Nofs.—TJchukotJkoi Nofs.—Ifland of St. Laurence.—View, from the fame Point, of the Coafls of Afa and America, and the Iflands of St. Diomede.— Various Attempts to get to the North, between the two Continents.—Obfrubied by impenetrable Ice.—Sea-horfs and "white Bears killed.—Captain Clerke s Determination, and future Defgns. TJAVING concluded the laft chapter with an account of JLjL our return from Bolcheretfk, accompanied by Major Behm, the Commander of Kamtfchatka, and of his departure; I fhall proceed to relate the tranfactions that palled in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul dining our abfencc. On the 7th of May, foon after wc had left the bay, a large piece of ice drove acrofs the cut-water of the Refolution, and brought home the fmall bower anchor. This obliged them to weigh the other anchor, and moor again. The carpenters, carpenters, who were employed in flopping the leak, were jryp- obliged to take off a great part of the fheathing from the 1- bows, and found many of the trunnels fo very loofe and rotten, as to be eafily drawn out with the fingers. On the nth, they had heavy gales from the North Eaft, Tuefday u. which obliged both the fhips to flrike yards and topmafts ; but in the afternoon the weather being more moderate, and the ice having drifted away as far as the mouth of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, they warped clofe to the fhore for the greater convenience of watering and wooding, and again moored as before; the town bearing North half Weft, half a mile diftant, and the mouth of the bay, fliut in by the Southernmoft point of Rakowina harbour, South. The next day a party was fent on fhorc to cut wood, but Wedncf. 12. made little progrefs on account of the fnow, which ftill covered the ground. A convenient fpot was cleared away abreaft of the fhips, where there was a fine run of water ; and a tent being creeled for the cooper,- the empty cafks were landed, and the fail-makers fent on fhore. On the 15th, the beach being clear of ice, the people were Saturday 1?. fent to haul the feine, and caught an abundant fupply of fine flat fifh for both the fhips companies. Indeed, from this time, during the whole of our flay in the harbour, we were abfolutely overpowered with the quantities of fifh which came in from every quarter. The Ttions, both of this town, and of Paratounca, a village in the neighbourhood, had received orders from Major Behm to employ all the Kamtfchadales in our fervice ; fo that we frequently could not take into the fhips the prefents that were fent us. They confined, in general, of flat fifh, cod, trout, and herring. Thefe laft, which were in their full perfection, and of a delicious delicious flavour, were exceedingly abundant in this bay. The Difcovery's people furrounded, at one time, fo great a quantity in their fcine, that they were obliged to throw a vail number out, left the net fhould be broken to pieces; and the cargo they landed was afterward fo plentiful, that, befides a fuflicient ftore for immediate ufe, they filled as many calks as they could fpare for falling; and, after fending to the Refolution a fuflicient quantity for the fame purpofe, they left feveral bufhels behind on the beach. The fnow now began to difappear very rapidly, and abundance of wild garlic, celery, and nettle tops were gathered for the ufe of the crews; which being boiled with wheat and portable foup, made them a wholefome and comfortable breakfaft; and with this they were fupplied every morning. The birch-trees were alfo tapped, and the fweet juice, which they yielded in great quantities, was conftantly mixed with the men's allowance of brandy. The next day, a fmall bullock, which had been procured for the fhips companies by the ferjeant, was killed; and weighed two hundred and feventy-two pounds. It was ferved out to both crews for their Sunday's dinner, being the firft piece of frefh beef they had tafted fince our departure from the Cape of Good Hope in December 1776, a period of near two years and a half. This evening died John Macintofh, the carpenter's mate, after having laboured under a dyfentery ever fince our departure from the Sandwich Iflands: he was a very hard working quiet man, and much regretted by his mefs-mates. He was the fourth perfon we loft by ficknefs during the voyage ; but the firft who could be faid, from his age, and the conftitutional habits of his body, to have had, on our t fetting letting out, an equal chance with the reft of his comrades: Watman, we fuppofed to be about fixty years of age ; and Roberts, and Mr. Anderfon, from the decay, which had evidently commenced before we left England, could not, in all probability, under any circumflances, have lived a greater length of time than they did. I have already mentioned, that Captain Clcrke's health continued daily to decline, notwithstanding the falutary change of diet, which the country of Kamtfchatka afforded him. The priefl of Paratounca, as foon as he heard of the infirm ftate he was in, fupplied him every day with bread, milk, frefh butter, and fowls, though his houfe was fixtecn miles from the harbour where we lay. On our firft arrival, we found the Ruffian hofpital, which is near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, in a condition truly deplorable. All the foldicrs were, more or lefs, affected by the fcurvy, and a great many in the laft flage of that diforder. The reft of the Ruffian inhabitants were alfo in the fame condition; and we particularly remarked, that our friend the ferjeant, by making too free with the fpirits wc gave him, had brought on himfelf, in the courfe of a few days, fome of the moft alarming fymptoms of that malady. In this lamentable ftate, Captain Clerke put them all under the care of our furgcons, and ordered a fupply of four krour, and malt, for wort, to be furniflicd for their ufe. It was aflonifhing to obferve the alteration in the figures of almofl every perfon we met on our return from Bolcheretfk ; and I was informed, by our furgeons, that they attributed their fpeedy recovery principally to the effects of the fweet wort. On \779- On the ift of Tune we got on board two hundred and fifty June. , «—v—t poods, or nine thoufand pound weight of rye flour, with which Tuefday i. ^ were fupplied from the flores of St. Peter and St. Paul's; and the Difcovery had a proportional quantity. The men were immediately put on full allowance of bread, which they had not been indulged in fince our leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The fame day, our watering was completed, having got on board fixty-five tons. Friday 4. &n die. 4th, we had frefh breezes, and hard rain, which difappointed us in our delign of drcfling the fhips, and obliged us to content ourfelves with firing twenty-one guns, in honour of the day, and celebrating it in other refpects in the befl manner we were able. Port, who was left with us on account of his fkill in languages, behaved himfelf with fo much modefly and difcretion, that, as foon as his mafter was gone, he was no longer Jean Port, but Monfieur Port, the interpreter; and partook, as well as the ferjeant (in his capacity of commander of the place), of the entertainment of the day. Our worthy friend, the pricft of Para-tounca, having got intelligence of its being our king's birth day, gave alfo a fumptuous feaft; at which fome of our gentlemen were prefent, who feemed highly delighted with their entertainment, which confifted of abundance of good eating and drinking, together with dancing. Sunday 6. On the 6th, twenty head of cattle were fent us by the Commander's orders from the Verchnei oftrog, which isfitu-ated on the river Kamtfchatka, at the diftance of near a hundred miles from this place, in a direct line. 1 hey were of a moderate fize ; and, notwithstanding the Kamtfchadales had been feventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, arrived in good condition. The four following days s were were employed in making redely for fea ; and, on the nth, 1^79-at two in the morning, we began to unmoor; but, before ^id^T* we had got one anchor up, it blew fo If rong a gale from the North Ealt, that we kept fall, and moored again; conjecturing, from the pofition of the entrance of the bay, that the current of wind would fet up the channel. Accordingly, the pinnace being lent out to examine the paffage, returned with an account, that the wind blew flrong from the South Eaft, with a great fwell, fetting into the bay, which would have made any attempt to get to fea very hazardous. Our friend Port now took his leave of us, and carried with him the box with our journals, which was to go by the Major, and the pacquct that was to be fent exprefs. On the 12th, the weather being moderate, we began to unmoor Saturday 12. again ; bur, after breaking the meffenger, and reeving a running purchafe with a fix inch hawfer, which alfo broke three times, we were obliged, at laft, to heave a ftrain at low water, and wait for the flowing of the tide to raife the anchor. This project fucceeded ; but not without damaging the cable in the wake of the hawfe. At three, we weighed the bed bower, and fet fail; and, at eight, having little wind, and the tide making againft us, we dropped anchor again in ten fathoms, off the mouth of Rakowina harbour; the oftrog bearing North by Eaft half Eaft, two miles and a half diftant; the needle rocks on the Eaft fide of the paffage South South Ealt half Eaft; and the high rock, on the Weft fide of the paffage, South. On the 13th, at four in the morning, we got under way Sunday 13, with the ebb tide ; and, there being a dead calm, the boats were fent ahead to tow the mips. At ten, the wind fpringing up from the South Eaft by South, and the tide Vol. III. H h having '779- having turned, wc were again obliged to drop anchor in i^JZ^—j feven fathoms ; the Three Needle Rocks bearing South half Eaft; and the oftrog North half Eaft, at the diftance of one mile from the neareft land. After dinner, I went, with Captain Gore, on fhore on the Eaft fide of the paflage, where we faw, in two different places, the remains of extenlive villages ; and, on the fide of the hill, an old ruined parapet,, with four or five embrafures. It commanded the paffage up the mouth of the bay; and, in Beering's time, as he himfelf mentions, had guns mounted on it. Near this place, were the ruins of fome caverns under ground, which we fuppofed to have been magazines. At fix in the afternoon we weighed with the ebb tide, and turned to windward; but, at eight, a thick fog arifing, we were obliged to bring to, as our foundings could not alford us a fufficient direction for fleering between feveral funk rocks-, which lie on each fide of the paffage we had to make. In Monday i+ the morning of the 14th, the fog clearing away, we weighed as foon as the tide began to ebb ; and, having little wind, fent the boats ahead to tow; but, at ten o'clock, both the wind and tide fet in fo ftrong from the fea, that we were again obliged to drop anchor in thirteen, fathoms, the high rock bearing Weft one quarter South, diftant three quarters of a mile. Wc remained fall for the reft of the day, the wind blownng frefh into the mouth of the bay ; and, toward evening, the weather had a very unufual appearance, being exceedingly dark and cloudy, with an unfettled fhifting wind. Tuefday 15. Before day-light, on the 15th, we were furprifed with a rumbling noife, refembling diftant hollow thunder; and, when the day broke, we found the decks and fides of the 7 fhips fhips covered with a fine dufl like emery, near an inch "Jg* thick. The air, at the fame time, continued loaded and '-»-' darkened with this fubflance ;- and, toward the volcano mountain, fituated to the North of the harbour, it was fo thick and black, that we could not diftinguifh the body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and, during the afternoon, the explofions became louder, and were followed by fhowers of cinders, which were, in general, about the fize of peas ; though many were picked up from the deck larger than a hazel nut. Along with the cinders fell feveral fmall flones, which had undergone no change from the action of fire. In the evening we had dreadful thunder and lightning, which, with the darknefs of the atmofphere, and the fulphurcous fmell of the air, produced altogether a mod awful and terrifying effect. We were, at this time, about eight leagues from the foot of the mountain. On the i6ch, at day-light, we again weighed anchor, and wednef. 16. flood out of the bay; but the ebb-tide fetting acrofs the paffage upon the Eaflern fhore, and the wind falling, we were driven very near the Three Needle Rocks, which lie on that fide of the entrance, and obliged to hoifl out the boats, in order to tow the fhips clear of them. At noon we were two leagues from the land, and had foundings with forty-three fathoms of line, over a bottom of fmall flones, of the fame kind with thofe which fell on our decks, after the eruption of the volcano, but whether they had been left there by the laft, or by fome former eruptions, we were not able to determine. The afpect of the country was now very different from what it had been on our firft arrival. The fnow, excepting what remained on the tops of fome very high mountains, had FI h 2 difappeared ; difappeared; and the fides of the hills, which, in many parts, were well wooded, were covered with a beautiful verdure. As it was Captain Clerke's intention to keep as much in fight of the coaft of Kamtfchatka as the weather would permit, in order to determine its pofition, we continued fleering to the Nonh North Eafl, with light and variable winds, till the. 18th. The volcano was ftill feen throwing up immenfe volumes of fmoke; and we had no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms, at the diflance of four leagues from the fhore. On the 18th, the wind frefhening from the South, the weather became fo thick and hazy, as to make it imprudent to attempt any longer to keep in fight of the land. But that we might be ready to refumc our furvcy, whenever the fogs fhould difperfe, we ran on in the direction of the coafl, as laid down in the Ruffian charts, and fired fignal guns for the Difcovery to fleer the fame courfe. At eleven o'clock, juft before we loft fight of the land, Cheeponfkoi Nofs, fo called by the Ruffians (a defcription of which, as well as the coafl between it and Awatfka Bay, will be given hereafter), bore North North Eafl, diftant feven or eight leagues. On the 20th, at three in the morning, the weather having cleared up, we flood in toward the land; and in an hour's time faw it ahead, extending from North Wefl to North North Eaft, diftant about five leagues. The North part we took to be Kronotfkoi Nofs; its pofition in the Ruffian charts agreeing nearly with our reckoning as to its latitude, which was 540 4-'; but, in longitude, we differed from them considerably, they placing it i° 48' Eaft of Awatfka j whereas, our our reckoning, corrected by the time-keepers and lunar ob-fcrvations, makes it 3* 34 Eaft ward of that place, or 162° 17' «—~v~> Eaft from Greenwich. The land about this cape is very high, and the inland mountains were ftill covered with fnow. The fhore breaks off in fleep cliffs, and the coaft is without any appearance of inlets or bays. We had not been long gratified with this fight of the land, when the wind frefhen-ed from the South Weft, and brought on a thick fog, which obliged us to fland off to the North Eafl by Eaft. The weather clearing up again at noon, we fleered toward the land, expecting to fall in with Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, and had fight of it at day-break of the 21 ft. Monday zu The Southerly wind was foon after fucceeded by a light breeze blowing off the land, which prevented our approach*. ing the coaft fufliciefltly near to defcribe its afpect, or atcer-tain, with accuracy, its direction. At noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 55* 52', and longitude (deduced from a comparifon of many lunar obfervations, taken near this time, with the time-keepers), 1630 50'; the extremities of the land bearing North Weft by Wefl, three quarters Weft, and North by Weft three quarters Weft, the nearcft part about eight leagues diftant. At nine o'clock in the evening, having approached about two leagues nearer the coaft, we found it formed a projecting peninfula, extending about twelve leagues in a direction nearly North and South. It is level, and of a moderate height, the Southern extremity terminating in a low Hoping point; that to the North forming a fleep bluff head; and between them, about four leagues to the Southward of the Northern Cape, there is a confiderable break in the land. On each fide of this break the land is quite low; beyond the opening rifes a remark -4 able ■779' able faddle-like hill ; and a chain of hicrh mountains, co- Junc. ° ~v—* vcrcd with fnow, ranges along the back of the whole pen-in ful a. As the coaft runs in an even direction, we were at a great lofs where to place Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, which, according to Muller, forms a projecting point about the middle of the peninfula, and which certainly does not cxift; but I have fince found, that, in rhe general map publifhed by the academy of Peterfburg in 1776, that name is given to the Southern cape. This was found, by feveral accurate obfervations, to be in latitude 560 3', longitude 1630 20'; the difference in longitude, from the Ruffian charts, being the fame as at Kronotfkoi Nofs. The variation of the compafs at this time was io° Eaft. To the Southward of this peninfula the great river Kamtfchatka falls into the fea. As the fcafon was too far advanced to admit of our making an accurate furvey of the coaft of Kamtfchatka, it was Captain Clerke's plan, in our run to Beering's Straits, to determine principally the pofitions of the projecting points of the coaft. We, therefore, directed our courfe acrofs an ex-tenfive bay, laid down between Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs and Olutorfkoi Nofs, intending to make the latter ; which, according to the Ruflian geographers, terminates the peninfula called Kamtfchatka, and becomes the Southern boundary of the Koriaki country. Tuefday 22. On the 22d, we paffed a dead whale, which emitted a horrid flench, perceivable at upward of a league's diftance ; it was covered with a great number of fea-birds, that were feafting on it. Thurfday24. On the 24th, the wind, which had varied round the compafs the three preceding days, fixed at South Weft, and brought brought clear weather, with which wc continued our courfe V79' to the North Eaft by North, acrofs the bay, without any land .i in fight. This day we faw a great number of gulls, and were wit-neffes to the difgufting mode of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it the name of the parafite, and which, if the reader is not already acquainted with it, he will find in the note below*. On the 25th, atone o'clock in the afternoon, being in lati- F.iday2;. tude S9° 12> longitude 1680 35', the wind frefhening from the fame quarter, a thick fog fucceeded ; and this unfortunately juft at the time we expected to fee Olutorfkoi Nofs, which, if Muller places it right in latitude 590 30', and in longitude 1670 36', could only have then been twelve leagues from us; at which diltance, land of a moderate height might eafily have been feen. But if the fame error in longitude prevails here, which we have hitherto invariably found, it would have been much nearer us, even before the fog came on; and as we faw no appearance of land at that time, it mult either have been very low, or there mult be fome miftake of latitude in Muller's account. We tried foundings, but had no ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. The weather ftill thickening, and preventing a nearer approach to the land, at five we fleered Ealt by North, which is fomewhat more Eafterly than the Ruffian charts lay down the trending of the coaft from Olutorfkoi Nofs. The next Saturday day, we had a frefh gale from the South Weft, which lafled * This bird, which is fomewhat larger than the common gull, purfues the latter kind whenever it meets them ; the gull, after flying for fume time, with loud fcreams, and evident marks of great terror, drops its dung, which its purfuer immediately, darts at, and catches before it falls into the fea. til] j77<> till the 27th at noon, when the fogs clearing away, we flood —x.--1 to the Northward, in order to make the land. The latitude day ~7' at noon, by obfervation, was S9° 49» longitude 1750 43'. Notwithstanding we faw fhags in the forenoon, which are fuppofed never to go far from land, yet there was no appearance of it this day; but on the 28th, at fix in the morning, we got fight of it to the North Weft. The coaft fhews itfelf in hills of a moderate height; but inland, others arc feen to rife confiderably. Wc could obferve no wood, and the fnow lying upon them in patches, gave the whole a very barren appearance. At nine, we were about ten miles from the more, the Southern extremity bearing Weft by South, fix leagues diftant, beyond which the coaft appeared to trend to the Weftward. This point being in latitude 6i° 48', longitude 174° 48', lies, according to the Ruffian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. At the fame time, the Northern extreme bore North by Weft; between which and a hill bearing North Weft by Weft a quarter Weft, and at this diftance appearing to us like an ifland, the coaft feemed to bend to the Weil ward, and form a deep bay. About eight miles from land, we perceived ourfelvcs in a ftrong rippling; and being apprehenfive of foul ground, we bore away to the North Eaft, along the fhore; notwithstanding, on heaving the lead, we found regular foundings of twenty-four fathoms, over a gravelly bottom ; from whence we concluded, that this appearance was occafioned by a tide, at that time running to the Southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing Weft South Weft three-quarters Wefl, and North North fall three-quarters Eafl, diftant from the nearell fhore four leagues, we were abrcafl of the low land, which we now perceived to join the two points, where we had before expected to find a deep bay. The coait bends a little THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 241 a little to the Weftward, and has a fmall inlet, which may »779' ' ' Jtinu. probably be the mouth of fome trifling flream. Our lati- wv—-/ tude, by obfervation, was 6i° 56', and longitude 1750 43', and the variation of the compafs 170 30' Eafl. We continued, during the afternoon, to run along the fhore, at the diflance of four or five leagues, with a moderate Wefterly breeze, carrying regular foundings from twenty-eight to thirty-fix fathoms. The coaft prefented the fame barren afpecT as to the Southward; the hills riling confiderably inland, but to what height, the clouds on their tops put it out of our power to determine. At eight in the evening, land was thought to have been feen to the Eaft by North, on which we fleered to the Southward of Eaft ; but it turned out to be only a fog bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing North Eaft a quarter Eaft, we fuppofed it to be Saint Thadeus's Nofs; to the Southward of which, the land trends to the Weftward, and forms a deep bight, wherein, according to the Ruffian charts, lies the river Katirka. On the 29th, the weather was unfcttled and variable, Tuefday 29. with the wind from the North Eaft. At noon of the 30th, Wednef. 3°-our latitude, by obfervation, was 6i° 48', and longitude i8-j° o'l at which time Saint Thadeus's Nofs bore North North Weft, twenty-three leagues diftant, and beyond it we obferved the coaft ftretching almofl directly North. The moft Eafterly point of the Nofs is in latitude 6*° 50', and longitude 1790 o', being 31° more to the Eaft, than what the Ruffians make it. The land about it muft be of a confuler-able height from its being feen at fo great a diftance. During the two laft days, we faw numbers of whales, large feals, and fea-horfes; alfo gulls, fca-parrots, and alba- Vol. III. 1 i trdffes. 1779- trofles. We took the advantage of a little calm wea- June, <—v—j ther to try for filh, and caught abundance of fine cod. The depth of water from fixty-fivc to feventy-five fathoms. j0iy. On the id of July at noon, Mr. Bligh having moored a Thuddayi. fmau wjth tiie deep.fea iead, in feventy-five fathoms, found the fhip made a courfe North by Eafl, half a mile an hour. This he attributed to the effect of a long Southerly fwell, and not to that of any current. The wind frcfhen-ing from the South Eafl toward evening, we fhaped our courfe to the North Eafl by Eaft, for the point called in Beer-ing's chart, Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, which wc had obferved on the 4th of September laft year, at the fame time that we faw, to the South Eaft, the ifland of Saint Laurence. This Cape, and Saint Thadeus's Nofs, form the North Eaft and South Weft extremities of the large and deep Gulph of Anadir, into the bottom of which the river of that name empties itfelf, dividing, as it paffes, the country of the Koriacs from that of the Tfchutfki. Saturday 3. On the 3d at noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 6f 33', and the longitude 1860 45'; half an hour after which we got fight of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, bearing North half Weft, thirteen or fourteen leagues diftant, and at five in the afternoon faw the ifland of Saint Laurence, bearing Eaft three-quarters North j and another ifland a little to the Eaft-ward of it, which we fuppofed to be between Saint Laurence and Anderfon's Ifland, about fix leagues Eaft South Eaft of the former. As we had no certain accounts of this ifland, Captain Clerke was defirous of a nearer profpect, and immediately hauled the wind toward it; but, unfortunately, we were not able to weather the ifland of Saint Laurence, and and were therefore under the neceiTity of bearing up again, vjw and palling them all to the leeward. <-^l^j We had a better opportunity of fettling the longitude of the ifland Saint Laurence, when wc laft faw it, than now. But feeing it at that time but once, and to the Southward, we could only determine its latitude fo far as we could judge of diflances \ whereas now the noon obfervations enabled us to afcertain it correctly, which is 630 47'. Its longitude was found to be 188° 15-', as before. This ifland, if its boundaries were at this time within our view, is about: three leagues in circuit. The North part may be feen at the diftance of ten or twelve leagues j but as it falls in low land to the South Eaft, the extent of which we could not fee, fome of us conjectured, that it might probably be joined to the land to the Eaftward of it; this, however, the hazinefs of the weather prevented our afecrtaining. Thefe iflands, as well as the land about the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, were covered with fnow, and prefented us with a moft dreary picture. At midnight, Saint Laurence bore South South Eaft, five or fix miles diftant; and our depth of water was eighteen fathoms. We were accompanied by various kinds of fea fowl, and faw feveral fmall crefted hawks. The weather ftill continuing to thicken, we loft all fight of land till the 5th, when it appeared both to the North Eaft Monday 5. and North Weft. Our latitude, by account, was, at this time, 650 24', longitude 189* 14'. As the iflands of Saint Diomede, whicli lie between the two continents in Bcer-ing's ftrait, were determined by us laft year to-be in latitude &5° 48', we could not reconcile the land to the North Eafl, with the fituation of thofe iflands. We therefore flood toward the land till three in the afternoon, when we were 1 i 2 within July.' within four miles of it, and finding it to be two iflands, !-.—-> were pretty well fatisfied of their being the fame; but the weather flill continuing hazy, to make fure of our fituation, we flood over to the coafl of Afia, till feven in the evening; at which time we were within two or three leagues of the Eaft Cape of that continent. This Cape is a high round head of land, extending four or five miles from North to South, forming a peninfula, and connected with the continent by a narrow neck of low land. Its fhore is bold, and off its North part are three high, detached, fpiral rocks. At this time it was covered with fnow, and the beach furrounded with ice. We were now convinced, that we had been under the influence of a flrong current, fetting to the North, that had caufed an error in our latitude at noon of twenty miles. In paffing this flrait the laft year, we had experienced the fame effect. Being at length fure of our pofition, we held on to the North by Eafl. At ten at night, the weather becoming clear* we had an opportunity of feeing, at the fame moment, the remarkable peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coaft of America, and the Eaft Cape of Afia, with the two-connecting iflands of Saint Diomede between them. Tuefday 6. At noon on the 6th, the latitude, by account, was Gy° North, and the longitude ioi° 6' Eafl. Having already paffed a considerable number of large maffes of ice, and obferved, that it ftill adhered in feveral places to the fhore on the continent of Afia, we were not much furprized to fall in, at three in the afternoon, with an extenfive body of it,, ftretching away to the Weftward. This fight gave great dif-couragemcnt to our hopes of advancing much farther Northward this year, than we had done the preceding. Having Having little wind in the afternoon, we hoiflcd out the boats in purfuit of the fea-horfes, which were in great numbers on the detached pieces of ice; but they foon returned without fuccefs ; thefe animals being exceedingly Illy, and before they could come within gun-fhot, always making their retreat into the water. At feven in the evening, wc hoiflcd in the boats, and the wind frefhening from the Southward, wc flood on to the North Ealt, with a view of exploring the continent of America, between the latitudes of Gb° and 6<,f, which, owing io the foggy weather 1 a 11 year, we had not been able to examine. In this attempt we were again in part difappointed. For, on the 7th, at fix in the morning, we were flopped by a large field of ice, flretching from North Wed to South Eafl; but foon after, the horizon becoming clear, we had fight of the coaft of America, at about ten leagues diilance, extending from North Eaft by Fail to Fait, and lying, by obfervation, between the 68° and 68* 20' of latitude. As the weather was clear, and the ice not high, we were enabled to fee over a great extent of it. The whole prefented a folid and compact furfacc, not in the fmalleft degree thawed j and appeared to us likewife to adhere to the land. The weather foon after changing to hazy, we faw no more of the land; and there not remaining a poffibility of approaching nearer to it, we flood to the North North Weft, keeping the ice clofe on board, and got round its Weflern extremity by noon, when wc found it trending nearly North. Our latitude at this time was, by account, 68° 22', and longitude 1920 34'. We continued our courfe to the North North Eaft, along the edge of the ice, during the remaining part of the day, pafling through many loofe pieces that y79- had been broken off from the main body, and againfl which, v-' notwitliflanding all our caution, the fhips were driven with great violence. At eight o'clock in the evening, we paffed fome drift wood; and at midnight the wind fhifted to the North Wefl; the thermometer fell from 38" to 31% and we had continued fhowers of fnow and fleet. ThUrfday8. On the 8th, at five in the morning, the wind coming flili more to the Northward, we could no longer keep on the fame tack, on account of the ice, but were obliged to fland to the Weftward. At this time our foundings had decreafed to nineteen fathoms, from which, on comparing it with our obfervations on the depth of water laft year, we concluded, that we were not at a greater diltance from the American fhore than fix or feven leagues ; but our view was confined within a much fliorter compafs, by a violent fall of fnow. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 6 July. 67 49', and longitude 1880 4.7'. <—~v— On the 12th, we had light winds, with thick hazy wea- Monday 1*. ther; and, on trying the current, we found it fet to the North Well, at the rate of half a knot an hour. We continued to fleer Northward, with a moderate Southerly breeze, and fair weather, till the 13th, at ten in the forenoon, when Tuefday 13. we again found ourfelvcs clofe in with a folid field of ice, to which we could fee no limits from the mail head. This, at once, dafhed all our hopes of penetrating farther; which had been confiderably raifed, by having now advanced near ten leagues through a fpace, which, on the 9th, wc had found occupied by impenetrable ice. Our latitude, at this time, was 690 37'; our pofition nearly in the mid channel between the two continents; and the field of ice extending from Eafl North Eafl, to Wefl South Well. As there did not remain the fmallcfl profpect of getting farther North in the part of the fea where we now were, Captain Clerke rcfolved to make one more, and final attempt on the American coafl, for Baffin's Bay, fince we had been able to advance the farthefl on this fide lafl year. Accordingly, we kept working, the remaining part of the day, to the windward, with a frefh Eafterly breeze. We faw feveral fulmars and arctic gulls, and paffed two trees, both appearing to have lain in the water a long time. The larger was about ten feet in length, and three in circumference, without either bark or branches, but with the roots remaining attached. On the 14th, we flood on to the Eaftward, with thick and Wednef. 14. foggy weather, our courfe being nearly parallel to that we fleered the 8th and 9th, but fix leagues more to the North- Vol. III. K k ward. »779- ward. On the 15th, the wind frcfhcncd from the Weftward Ju'y- . * --• and having, in a great mcafurc, difpcrfcd the fog, we irft- ihu!javi5, me(jjatejy ftO0([ to the Northward, that we might take a nearer view of the ice ; and in an hour were clofe in with it, extending from North North Well, to North Eaft. We found it to be compact and folid ; the outer parts were ragged, and of different heights; the interiour furface was even; and, we judged, from eight to ten feet above the level of the fea. The weather becoming moderate for the remaining part of the day, we directed our courfe according to the trending of the ice, which in many parts formed deep bays. Jrkluy 16. In the morning of the 16th, the wind frefliened, and was attended with thick and frequent fhowcrs of fnow. At eight in the forenoon, it blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South Weft, and brought us under double-reefed top-fails; when, the weather clearing a little, we found ourfelves embayed; the ice having taken a fudden turn to the South Eaft, and in one compact body furrounding us on all fides, except on the South quarter. We therefore hauled our wind to the Southward, being at this time in latitude 70° 8' North, and in twenty-fix fathoms water; and, as we fuppofed, about twenty-five leagues from the coaft of America. The gale kicreafing, at four in the afternoon we clofe reefed the fore and ma in-top-fails, furled the mizen top-fail, and got the top-gallant-yards down upon deck. At eight, finding the depth of water had decreafed to twenty-two fathoms, which wc confidered as a proof of our near approach to the American coaft, we tacked and flood to the North. We had blowing weather, accompanied with fnow, through the Saturday 17. night; but nest morning, it became clear and moderate; and, at eight in the forenoon, we got the top-gallant yards acrofs, acrofs, and made fail with the wind ftill at Weft South Weft. July. At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 690 55-', longi- \—- tude 1940 30'. Toward evening, the wind ftackened, and at midnight it was a calm. On the 18th, at five in the morning, a light breeze fprung Sunday 18. up from the Eaft North Eaft, with which we continued our courfe to the North, in order to regain the ice as foon as pof-fible. We paffed fome fmall logs of drift-wood, and faw abundance of fea-parrots, and the fmall ice-birds, and like-wife a number of whales. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 700 26', and longitude 1940 54'; the depth of water twenty-three fathoms; the ice ftretched from North to Eaft North Eaft, and was diftant about three miles. At one in the afternoon, finding that we were clofe in with a firm united field of it, extending from Weft North Weft to Eaft, we tacked, and, the wind coming round to the Weftward, flood on to the Eaftward, along its edge, till eleven at night. At that time a very thick fog coming on, and the water fhoaling to nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the South. The variation obferved this day was 310 20' Eaft. It is remarkable, that though we faw no fea-horfes on the body of the ice, yet they were in herds, and in greater numbers on the detached fragments, than we had ever obferved before. About nine in the evening, a white bear was feen fwimming clofe by the Difcovery; it afterward made to the ice, on which were alfo two others. On the 19th, atone in the morning, the weather clearing Monday 1$. up, we again fleered to the North Eaft, till two, when we were a fecond time fo completely embayed, that there was no opening left, but to the South; to which quarter we accordingly directed our courfe, returning through a remark- K k 2 ably ably fmooth water, and with very favourable weather, by v—k--' the fame way we had come in. We were never able to pe- netrate farther North than at this time, when our latitude was 700 33'; and this was five leagues fhort of the point to which we advanced laft feafon. We held on to the South South Welt, with light winds from the North Welt, by the edge of the main ice, which lay on our left hand, and ftretched between us and the continent of America. Our latitude, by obfervation at noon, was 700 n', our longitude 196° 15', and the depth of water fixteen fathoms. From this circumftance, we judged that the Icy Cape was now only at feven or eight leagues diftance; but, though the weather was in general clear, it was at the fame time hazy in the horizon ; fo that we could not expect to fee it. In the afternoon, wc faw two white bears in the water, to which we immediately gave chace in the jolly boat, and had, the good fortune to kill them both. The larger, which probably was the dam of the younger, being fhot firft, the other would not quit it, though it might cafdy have cfcaped on the ice, whild the men were reloading, but remained fwimming about, till, after being fired upon feveral times, it was fhot.. dead, The dimenfions of the larger were as follow: From the fnout to the end.of the tail. From the fnout to the moulder-bone Height of the moulder Circumference near the fore-legs Breadth of the fore-paw Feet. Inches.. 7 2 2 3 4 3 4 10 lb. Weight of the four quarters - 436 Weight of the four quarters of the fmalleft 256 6 On On comparing the ditnenfions of this with Lord Mul- r ° [uly. grave's white bear, they were found almofl: exactly the fame, <——-except in the circumference, where our's fell exceedingly fhort. Thefe animals afforded us a few excellent meals of frefh-meat. The flefh had indeed a ftrong fifhy taflc, but was, in every refpect, infinitely fuperior to that of the fea-horfe; which, neverthelefs, our people were again per-fuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their falted' provifions. At fix in the morning of the 20th, a thick fog coming on; Tuefday 20s we loft fight of the ice for two hours; but the weather clearing, we faw the main body again to the South South Eaft, when we hauled our wind, which was Eafterly, toward it, in the expectation of making the American coaft to the South Eaft, and which we effected at half pait ten. At noon, the latitude, by account, was Gif 33', and longitude 1940 53', and the depth of water nineteen fathoms. The land extended from South by Ealt, to South South Weft half Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues, being the fame we had feen laft year; but it was now much, more covered with fnow than at that time; and, to all appearance, the ice adhered to the fhore. We continued, in the afternoon, failing through a fea of loofe ice, and Handing toward the land, as near as the wind, which was Eaft South Eaft, would admit. At eight, the wind leffening, there came on a thick fog; and, on perceiving a rippling in the water, we tried the current, which we found to fet to the Eaft North Eaft, at the rate of a mile an hour, and therefore determined to fleer, during the night, before the wind, in order to Item it, and to oppofe the large fragments of loofe ice, that were fetting fetting us on toward the land. The depth of the water, at midnight, was twenty fathoms. * At eight in the morning of the 2iff, the wpid frefhening, and the fog clearing away, wc faw the American coaft to the South Eaft, at the diftance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were flopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the Weftward, along the edge of it. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 690 34', and longitude 193 °, and the depth of water twenty-four fathoms. Thus, a connected, folid field of ice, rendering every effort we could make to a nearer approach to the land fruit-lefs, and joining, as we judged, to it, we took a laft far ewe 1 of a North Eaft paffage to Old England. I fhall beg leave to give, in Captain Clerke's own words, the reafons of this his final determination, as well as of his future plans; and this the rather, as it is the laft tranfaction his health permitted him to write down. " It is now impoilible to proceed the lcaft farther to the st Northward upon "this coaft (America); and it is equally of the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, notwitliflanding there are others of a more doubtful kind, which we have from the fame authority, and which now remain to be confidered. " To " go," fays DefhnefF in another account, " from the Ko-'** vyma, to the Anadyr, a great promontory muft be doubled, " which ftretches very far into the fea;" and afterward, " this promontory ftretches between North and North Eaft." It was probably from the expreflxons contained in thefe palTages, that Mr. Muller was induced to give the country of the Tfchutfki the form we find in his map; but had he been acquainted with the fituation of the Eaft Cape, as ascertained by Captain Cook, and the remarkable coincidence between it and their promontory or iflhmus (for it muft be obferved, that DefhnefT appears to be all along fpeaking of the fame thing), in the circumflances already mentioned, I am confident, he would not have thought thofe cxpreftions, merely by themfelves, of fuflicient weight to warrant him in extending the North Eaftern cxtremify of Afia, either fo far to the North or to the Eaftward. For, after fmall iflands lying between them, probably for the conveniency of fifhing, or in purfuit of furs. It appears alfo from PopofPs depofition, which I (hall have occafion to fpeak of more particularly hereafter, that the general refcmblance between the people, who arc feen in thefe iflands, and the Tfchutfki, was fufficient to lead DefchnefFinto the error of imagining them to be the fame. " Oppofitc to the Nofs," he fays, " is an ifland of moderate fize, without trees, whofe inhabitants refcmble, in their exterior, the Tfchutfki, although they are quite another nation ; not numerous indeed, yet fpeaking their own particular language." Again, " One may go in a baidare from the Nofs to the ifland in half a day : beyond is a great continent, which can be difcovered from the ifland in ferene weather. When the weather is good, one may go from the ifland to the continent in a day. The inhabitants of the continent are fimilar to the Tfbutfti, excepting that they fpeak another language" Vol. III. M m all, all, thefe expreftions are not irreconcileable with the opinion we have adopted, if wc fuppofe DefhnefF to have taken thefe bearings from the fmall bight which lies to the Weftward of the Cape. The depofition of the Coffac Popoff, taken at the Anadir-fkoi oftrog, in the year 1711, feems to have been the next authority on which Mr. Muller has proceeded; and belide thefe two, I am not acquainted with any other. This Coffac, together with feveral others, was fent by land to demand tribute from the independent Tfchutfki tribes, who lived about the Nofs. The firft circumftance, in the account of this journey, that can lead to the fituation of Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, is its diftance from Anadirfk; and this is flated to be ten weeks journey, with loaded rein-deer; on which account it is added, their day's journey was but very fmall. It is impoflible to conclude much from fo vague an account; but, as the diftance between the Eaft Cape and the oftrog is upward of two hundred leagues in a ftraight line, and therefore may be fuppofed to allow twelve or fifteen miles a day ; its fituation cannot be reckoned incompatible with Pop-off 's calculation. The next circumftance mentioned in this depofition is, that their route lay by the foot of a rock called Matkol, fituated at the bottom of a great gulf. This gulf Muller fuppofes to be the bay he had laid down between latitude 66° and 720; and accordingly places, the rock Matkol in the center of it ; but it appears equally probable, even if we had not fo many reafons to doubt the exiftence of that bay, that it might be fome part of the gulf of Anadir, which they would undoubtedly touch upon in their road from the oftrog to the Eaft Cape. But what feems to put this matter beyond all difpute, and to prove that the Cape vifited by Popoff cannot be to the 3 , North- Northward of 6cf latitude, is that part of his depofition, which I have already quoted, relative to the ifland lying, off the Nofs, from whence the oppofite continent might be feen. For as the two continents, in latitude 69°, have diverged fo far as to be more than three hundred miles diftant, it is highly improbable, that the Afiatic coaft fhould again trend in fuch a manner to the Eaflward, as to come nearly within fight of the Coaft of America. If thefe arguments fhould be deemed conclufive againfl the exittence of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, as laid down by Muller, it will follow, that the Eafl Cape is the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs of the * more early Ruffian navigators ; and, confequently, that the undefcribed coafl, from the latitude of Gcf to the mouth of the river Kovyma, mull uniformly trend more or lefs to the Weftward. As an additional proof of this, it may be remarked, that the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs is always reprefented as dividing the fea of Kovyma from that of Anadir, which could not be the cafe, if any confiderable cape had projected to the North Eaft in the higher latitudes. Thus, in the depofitions taken at Anadirfk, it is related, " that oppofite the Nofs, on both fides, as well v in the fea of Kovyma, as in that of Anadir, an illand is faid " to be feen at a great diflance, which the Tfchutfki call a " large country ; and fay, that people dwell there who have " large teeth put in their mouths, that project through their " cheeks." Then follows a defcription of thefe people and their country, exactly correfponding with our accounts of the oppofite continent. * I mention the more early Ruffian navigators, becaufe Beering, whom we have alfo followed, and after him all the late Ruffian geographers, have given this name to the South Eaft Cape of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, which was formerly called the Anadirfkoi Nofs. M m 2 The The laft queftion that arifes is, to what degree of Northern latitude this coaft extends, before it trends more directly to the Weftward. If the fituation of the mouth of the Kovyma, both with refpect to its latitude and longitude, were accurately determined, it would perhaps not be very difficult to form a probable conjecture upon this point. Captain Cook was always ftrongly of opinion, that the Northern coaft of Afia, from the Indigirka eaftward, has hitherto been generally laid down more than two degrees to the Northward of its true pofition; and he has, therefore, on the authority of a map that was in his poffeflion, and on the information he received at Oonalafhka, placed the mouth of the river Kovyma, in his chart of the North Weft coaft of America, and the North Eaft coaft of Afia, in the latitude of 68°. Should he be right in this conjecture, it is probable, for the reafons that have been already ftated, that the Afiatic coaft does not any where exceed yo° before it trends to the Weftward; and confcquently, that we were within i° of its North Eaftern extremity. For, if the continent be fuppofed to ftretch any where to the Northward of Shelat-ikoi Nofs, it is fea reel y poftible, that fo extraordinary a circumftance fhould not have been mentioned by the Ruffian navigators; and we have already fhewn, that they make mention of no remarkable promontory between the Kovyma and the Anadir, except the Eaft Cape. Another circumftance, related by Dcfhncff, may, perhaps, be thought a further confirmation of this opinion, namely, that he met with no impediment from ice in navigating round the North Eaft extremity of Afia; though he adds, that this fea is not always fo free from it; as indeed is manifeft from the failure of his firft expedition, and, fince that, from the un-i fuccefsful fuccefsful attempts of Shalauroff, and the obftacles we met with, in two different years, in our prefent voyage. The continent, left undetermined in our chart, between Cape North, and the mouth of the Kovyma, is, in longitudinal extent, one hundred and twenty-five leagues. One third, or about forty leagues, of this diflance, from the the Kovyma Eaflward, was explored in the year 1723, by a Sinbojarjkoi of Jakutz, whofe name was Fcdot AmofToff; by whom Mr. Muller was informed, that its direction was to the Eaflward. It is faid to have been fince accurately fur-veyed by Shalauroff, whofe chart makes it trend to the North Eafl by Eafl, as far as the Shelatfkoi Nofs, which he places about forty-three leagues to the Eaflward of the Kovyma. The fpace between this Nofs and Cape North, about eighty-two leagues, is therefore the only part of the Ruffian empire that now remains unafcertained. Bin if the river Kovyma be erroneoufly fituated with refpect to its longitude, as well as in its latitude, a fuppofition for which probable grounds are not wanting, the extent of the unexplored coafl will become proportionably.diminifhed. The reafons which incline me to believe, that the mouth of this river is placed in the Ruffian charts much too far to the Weftward, are as follow : Firft, becaufe the accounts that are given of the navigation of the Frozen Sea from that river, round the North Eaft point of Afia, to the gulf of Anadir, do not accord with the fuppofed diftance between thofe places. Secondly, becaufe the diflance over land, from the Kovyma to the Anadir, is reprefented by the early Ruffian travellers as a journey eafily performed, and of no very extraordinary length. Thirdly, becaufe the coaft from the Shelatfkoi Nofs of Shalauroff* feems to trend directly South • See Chart in Coxc's Account of Ruffian Difcoveries, Eaft Eafl to the Eafl Cape. If this be fo, it will follow, that, as we were probably not more than i° to the Southward of Shelatfkoi Nofs, only fixty miles of the Afiatic coafl rem in unafcertained. Had Captain Cook lived to this period of our voyage, and experienced, in a fecond attempt, the impracticability of a North Eafl or North Weft paffage from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, he would doubtlefs have laid before the Public, in one connected view, an account of the obftacles which defeated this, the primary object of our expedition, together with his obfervations on a fubject of fuch magnitude, and which had engaged the attention, and divided the opinions of philofophcrs and navigators, for upward of two hundred years. I am very fenfible how unequal I am to the tafk of fupplying this deficiency ; but that the expectations of the reader may not be wholly difappointed, I muft beg his candid acceptance of the following obfervations, as well as of thofe I have already vemured to offer him, relative to the extent of the North Eafl coall of Afia. The evidence that has been fo fully and judicioufly flated in the introduction, amounts to the highell degree of probability, that a North Weft paffage, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, cannot exift. to the Southward of 65* of latitude. If then there exifts a paffage, it muft be either through Baffin's Bay, or round by the North of Greenland, in the Weflern hemifphere; or elfc through the Frozen Ocean, to the Northward of Siberia, in the Eaftern ; and on whichever fide it lies, the navigator muft ncceflarily pafs through Beering's Straits. The impracticability of penetrating into the Atlantic on either fide, through this ftrait, is therefore all that remains to be fubmitted to the confidera-tion of the Public. As As far as our experience went, it appears, that the fea to the North of Beering's ftrait, is clearer of ice in Augufl than in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may be flill more free. But after the equinox, the days fhorten fo faff, that no farther thaw can be expected; and we cannot rationally allow fo great an effect to the warm weather in the firft half of September, as to imagine it capable of difper-fing the ice from the mofl Northern parts of the American coafl. But admitting this to be poflible, it mufl at leafl be granted, that it would be madnefs to attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay (a diflance of four hundred and twenty leagues), in fo fhort a time as that palTage can be fuppofed to continue open. Upon the Afiatic fide, there appears flill lefs probability of fuccefs, both from what came to our own knowledge, with refpect to the flate of the fea to the Southward of Cape North, and alfo from what we learn from the experience of the * Lieutenants under Beering's direction, and the journal of Shalauroff, in regard to that on the North of Siberia. The voyage of DefhnefF, if its truth be admitted, proves undoubtedly the poflibility of pafFing round the North Eafl point of Afia ; but when the reader reflects, that near a century and a half has elapfed fince the time of that navigator, during which, in an age of great curiofity and enterprizc, no man has yet been able to follow him, he will not entertain very fanguine expectations of the public advantages that can be derived from it. But let us even fuppofe, that m fome lingularly favourable {eD.l'on a fhip has found a cldfr paffage round the coafl of Siberia, and is fafely arrived at the mouth of the Lena, flill there remains the Cape of Tai- * See Gmelin, pages 369. 374. mura, mura, flretching to the 78° of latitude, which the good fortune of no fingle voyager has hitherto doubled. It is, however, contended, that there are flrong reafons for believing, that the fea is more free from ice, the nearer we approach to the pole; and that all the ice we faw in the lower latitudes, was formed in the great rivers of Siberia and America, the breaking up of which had filled the intermediate fea. But even if that fuppofition be true, it is equally fo, that there can be no accefs to thofe open feas, unlefs this great mafs of ice is fo far diffolved in the fum-mer, as to admit of a (hip's getting through it. If this be the fact, we have taken a wrong time of the year for attempting to find this paffage, which fhould have been explored in April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But how many reafons may be given againfl fuch a fuppofition. Our experience at Saint Peter and Saint Paul enabled us to judge what might be expected farther North; and upon that ground, we had reafon to doubt, whether the continents might not in winter be even joined by the ice; and this agreed with the flories we heard in Kamtfchatka, that on the Siberian coafl, they go out from the fhore in winter, upon the ice, to greater diflances than the breadth of the fea is, in fome parts, from one continent to the other. In the depofitions referred to above, the following remarkable circumftance is related. Speaking of the land feen from the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, it is faid, " that in hammer time they fail in one day to the land in baidares, a fort of velfcl conflructed of whale-bone, and covered with feal-fkins; and in winter time, going fwift with rein deer, the journey may likewife be made in a day." A fuflicient proof, proof, that the two countries were ufually joined together by the ice. The account given by Mr. Muller, of one of the expeditions undertaken to difcover a fuppofed ifland in the Frozen Sea, is flill more remarkable. " In the year 1714, a new " expedition was prepared from Jakutzk, for the fame " place, under the command of Alexei Markoff, who was " to fail from the mouth of the Jana; and if the Schitiki " were not fit for fea voyages, he was to conflrucr, at a pro-" per place, veffels fit for profecuting the difcoveries with-" out danger. " On his arrival at Uil-janfkoe Simovie, the port at which c< he was to embark, he fent an account, dated February 2, " 1715, to the Chancery of Jakutzk, mentioning, that it " was impoffible to navigate the fea, as it was continually " frozen, both in fummer and winter; and that, confe-" quently, the intended expedition, was no othervvife to be " carried on, but with fledges drawn by dogs. f In this ** manner, he accordingly fet out, with nine perfons, on " the 10th of March the fame year, and returned on the " 3d of April, to Ufl-janfkoe Simovie. The account of " his journey is as follows: that he went feven days, 11 as faft as his dogs could draw him (which, in good t( ways and weather, is eighty or a hundred werfls in a " day) directly toward the North, upon the ice, without " discovering any ifland: that it had not been pofliblc for " him to proceed any farther, the icq riling there in ttie fea " like mountains : that he had climbed to the top of Ionic " of them, whence he was able to fee to a great dillance i4 round about him, but could difcerm no appearance of Vol. III. N n « land : " land: and that, at laft, wanting food for his dogs, many " of them died, which obliged him to return/' Befides thefe arguments, which proceed upon an admif-fion of the hypothcfis, that the ice in thofe feas comes from the rivers, there are others which give great room to fufpect the truth of the hypothcfis itfelf. Captain Cook, whofe opinion refpecting the formation of ice had formerly coincided with that of the thcorifts we are now controverting, found abundant reafon, in the prefent voyage, for changing his fentiments. We found the coaft of each continent to be low, the foundings gradually decreafing toward them, and a ftriking refemblance between the two ; which, together with the defcription Mr.Hearne gives of the copper-mine river, afford reafon to conjecture, that whatever rivers may empty themfelves into the Frozen Sea, from the American continent, are of the fame nature with thofe on the Afiatic fide *, which are reprefented to be fo fhallow at the entrance, as to admit only fmall veffels ; whereas the ice we have feen, rifes above the level of the fea to a height equal to the depth of thofe rivers; fo that its entire height muft be at lead ten times greater. The curious reader will alfo, in this place, be led naturally to reflect on another circumftance, which appears very incompatible with the opinion of thofe who imagine land to be neccifary for the formation of ice; I mean the different ftate of the fea about Spitfbergen, and to the North of Beering's Straits. It is incumbent on them to explain how it comes to pafs, that in the former quarter, and in the vicinity of much known land, the navigator annually penetrates to near 8o° North latitude ; whereas, on the other fide, his utmoft mofl efforts have not been able, to carry him beyond 710; where, moreover, the continents diverge nearly Eafl and Wefl, and where there is no land yet known to exifl near the pole. For the farther fatisfaction of the reader on this point, I fhall beg leave to refer him to Obfervations wade, during a voyage round the world, by Dr. Forller, where he will find the queftion of the formation of ice, fully and Satisfactorily difcuffed, and the probability of open polar feas difproved by a variety of powerful arguments. I fhall conclude thefe remarks with a fhort comparative view of the progrefs we made to the Northward, at the two different feafons we were engaged in that purfuit, together with a few general obfervations relative to the fea, and the coafl of the two continents, which lie to the North of Beering's Straits. It may be obferved, that in the year 1778, wc did not meet with the ice, till we advanced to the latitude of 700, on Augufl 17th j and that then we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part or the whole was moveable, fince, by its drifting down upon us, we narrowly efcaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After experiencing both how fruitlefs and dangerous it would be to attempt to penetrate farther North, between the ice and the land, wc Hood over toward the Afiatic fide, between the latitude 69° and 700, frequently encountering, in this tract, large and extenlive fields of ice; and though, by reafon of the fogs, and thicknefs of the weather, we were not able abfolutcly and entirely to trace a connected line of it acrofs, yet we were fure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of 700, whenever we attempted to fland to the Northward. On the 26th of Au- N n 2 gufl> guft, in latitude 69£s and longitude 184°, we were obftrucled? by it in fuch quantities, as made it impoffible for us to pafs cither to the North or Weft, and obliged us to run along the edge of it to the South South Weft, till we faw land, which we afterward found to be the coaft of Afia. With the feafon thus far advanced, the weather fetting in with fnow and fleet, and other figns of approaching winter, we abandoned our cnterprize for that time. In this fecond attempt, we could do little more than confirm the obfervations we had made in the firft; for we were never able to approach the continent of Afia higher than the latitude of 67°, nor that of America in any parts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 68° and 68° 20', that were not feen the laft year. We were now obftructcd by ice 30 lower, and our endeavours to pufh farther to the Northward, were principally confined to the mid-fpace between the two coafts. We penetrated near 30 farther on the American fide than on the Afiatic, meeting with the ice both years fooner, and in greater quantities, on the latter coaft. As we advanced North, we ftill found the ice more compact and folid ; yet as, in our different traverfes from fide to fide, we paffed over fpaccs which had before been covered with it, we conjectured, that moft of what we faw was moveable. Its height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the highcfl to have been fixtcen or eighteen. Wc again tried the currents twice, and found them unequal, but never to exceed one mile an hour* By comparing the reckoning with the obfervations, we alfo found the current to fet different ways,yet more from theSouth Welt than any other quarter; but whatever their direction might be, their effect, was fo trifling, that no conditions, refpecting fpecting the exiftence of any paffage to the Northward, could jg9-be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be in- 1—-v—~* finitely colder than that of Augulf. The thermometer in July was once at 280, and very commonly at 30° * whereas the laft year, in Auguft, it was very rare to have it fo low as the freezing point. In both feafons, we had fome high winds, all of which came from the South Welt. We were fubject to fogs, whenever the wind was moderate, from whatever quarter, but they attended Southerly winds more conftantly than contrary ones. The (traits, between the two continents, at their neareft approach, in latitude 66°, were afcertained to be thirteen leagues,, beyond which they diverge to North Ealt by Eaft and Weft North Welt; and in latitude 6^*, they become 140 of longitude, or about one hundred leagues, afunder. A great fimilarity is obfervablc in the appearance of the two countries, to the Northward of the (traits. Both are defti-tutc of wood. The (hores are low, with mountains rifing to a great height farther up the country. The depth of water, in the mid-way between them, was twenty-nine and thirty fathoms, decreafing gradually as we approached either continent, wTith the difference of being fomewhat ihoalcr on the American than on the Afiatic coaft, at the fame diftance from land. The bottom, in the middle, was a foft (limy mud ; and on drawing near to either (hore, a brown fand, intermixed with fmall fragments of bones, and a few fhells. We obferved but little tide or current; what there was, came from the Weftward. But it is now time to refumc the narrative of our voyage,' which was broken off on the 31ft of July, on which day at noon wc had advanced eighteen leagues to the Southward of the Eaft Cape. 7 We 1779. We had light airs from the South Weft, till noon of the Augult. 0 *—-j i ft of Auguft, at which time our latitude, by obfervation, was 640 23', longitude 1890 15', the coaft of Afia extended from North Weft by Weft to Weft half South, diftant about twelve leagues ; and the land to the Eaflward of Saint Lau- .Monday 2. rence bore South half Weft. On the 2d, the weather becoming clear, we faw the fame land at noon, bearing from Weft South Weft half Weft to South Eaft, making in a number of high hummocks, which had the appearance of fe-•^arate iflands; the latitude, by obfervation, was 640 3', longitude 189* 28', and depth of water feventeen fathoms. We did not approach this land fuflicicntly near to determine, whether it was one ifland, or compofed of a duller together. Its Wefternmoft part we paffed July 3d, in the evening, and then fuppofed to be the ifland of Saint Laurence ; the Eaflernmoft we ran clofe by in September laft year, and this we named Gierke's Ifland, and found it to confift of a number of high cliffs, joined together by very low land. Though we miftook, the laft year, thofe cliffs for feparate iflands, till we approached very near the more, I fhould flill conjecture, that the ifland Saint Laurence was diftirict from Clerke's Ifland, fince there appeared a confiderable fpace between them, where we could not perceive the ■fmalleft rifing of ground. In the afternoon, we alfo faw what bore the appearance of a fmall ifland, to the North Eaft of the land, which was feen at noon, and which, from the hazinefs of the weather, we had only fight of once. We cdimated its diftance to be nineteen leagues from the ifland of Saint Laurence, in a North Eaft by Eaft half Eaft Tuefday 3. direction. On the 3d, we had light variable winds, and directed our courfe round the North Weft point of the ifland Wednef. 4. of Saint Laurence. On the 4th, at noon, our latitude, by ^account, account, was 64" 8', longitude 1880; the Ifland St. Lau- rencc bearing South one quarter Eaft, diftant feven leagues. '---' In the afternoon, a frefh breeze fpringing up from the Eaft, we fleered to the South South Weft, and foon loft fight of St. Laurence. On the 7th, at noon, the latitude, Saturday 7. by obfervation, was 590 38', longitude 183*. In the afternoon, it fell calm, and we got a great number of cod in feventy-eight fathoms of water. The variation was found to be 190 Eaft. From this time, to the 17th, we were making the befl of our way to the South, without any occurrence worth remarking, except that the wind coming from the Weflern quarter, forced us farther to the Eaflward than we wifhed, as it was our intention to make Beering's ifland. On the 17th, at half paft four in the morning, we faw Tuefday 1-. land to the North Weft, which wc could not approach, the wind blowing from that quarter. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 530 49', longitude 1680 5', and variation io° Eaft. The land in fight bore North by Weft, twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. This land we take to be the ifland Mednoi, laid down, in the Ruffian charts, to the South Eaft of Beering's Ifland. It is high land, and appeared clear of fnow. We place it in the latitude 540 28', longitude i6y° 52'. We got no foundings with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. Captain Clerke was now no longer able to get out of his bed ; he therefore defired, that the officers would receive their orders from me, and directed that wc fhould proceed, with all fpeed, to Awatfka Bay. The wind continuing Wefterly, we flood on to the South, till early on the morning of 2 the the 19th, when, after a few hours rain, it blew from the Eaflward, and frefhened to a ftrong gale. We accordingly made the mofl of it whilft it lafted, by Handing to the Weftward, under all the fail we could carry. On the 20th, the wind fhifting to the South Weft, our courfe was to the Weft North Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 530 7', longitude 162°^'. On the 21ft, at half paft five in the morning, we faw a very high peaked mountain on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, called Chccpoonfkoi Mountain, from its lying behind the Nofs, bearing North Weft by North, twenty-five or thirty leagues diftant. At noon, the coaft extended from North by Eaft to Weft, with a very great ha-zinefs upon it, and diftant about twelve leagues. We had light airs the remaining part of this and the following day, and got no foundings with one hundred and forty fathoms of line. 1* On the 22d of Auguft, 1779. at nine o'clock in the morning, departed this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eighth year of his age. lie died of a confumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object: to his friends; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the conftant flow of good fpirits, which continued to the laft hour, and a cheerful refignation to his fate, afforded them fome confolation. It was impoflible not to feel a more than common degree of companion for a perfon, whofe life had been a continued fcenc of thofe difficulties and hardfhips, to which a feaman's occupation is fubject, and under which he at laft funk. He was brought up to the Navy from his earlieft earliefl youth, and had been in feveral actions during the war which began in 1756, particularly in that between the Bellona and Courageux, where being flationed in the mizen-top, he was carried overboard with the mafi, but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was Midfhipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Commodore Byron, on her firfl Voyage round,the world, and afterward ferved on the American ftation. In 1768, he made his fecond voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as Mailer's Mate, and by the promotion, which took place during the expedition, he returned a Lieutenant. His third voyage round the world was in the Refolution, of which he was appointed the Second Lieutenant t and foon after his return, in 1775, he was promoted to the rank of Mailer and Commander. When the prefent expedition was ordered to be fitted out, he was appointed to the Difcovery, to accompany Captain Cook; and, by the death of the latter, fuc-ceeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. It would be doing his memory extreme injuflice not to fay, that during the fhort time the expedition was under his direction, he was moll zealous and anxious for its fuccefs. His health, about the time the principal command devolved upon him, began to decline very rapidly, and was every way unequal to encounter the rigours of a high Northern climate. But the vigour and activity of his mind had, in no fhape, fuffered by the decay of his body: and though he knew, that by delaying his return to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the laft degree, that a regard Vol. III. O o to to his own fituation fhould never bias his judgment to the prejudice of the fervice, he perfevered in the fearch of a paffage, till it was the opinion of every officer in both fhips, that it was impracticable, and that any farther attempts would not only be fruitlefs, but dangerous. CHAP. CHAP. V. Return to the Harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul.— Promotion of Officers.—Funeral of Captain Clerke.— Damages of the Difcovery repaired. —Various other Occupations of the Ships Crews.—Letters from the Commander.—Supply of Flour and Naval Stores from a Ruffian Galliot.—Account of an Exile.—Bear-hunting and Fi/hing Parties.—Dif grace of the Serjeant.—Celebration of the Kings Coronation Day, and Vifit from the Commander.—The Serjeant reinftated.—A Ruffian Soldier, promoted at our Requefi.—Remarks on the Dif cipline of the Ruff an Army.—Church at Paratounca.— Method of Bear-hunting.—Farther Account of the Bears and Kamtfchadales.—lnfcripiion to the Memory of Cap- j* tain Clerke.—Supply of Cattle.—Entertainments on the Emprefs's Name Day.—Prefent from the Commander* —Attempt of a Marine to defert.—Work out of the Bay. — Nautical and Geographical Defcription of Awatfka Bay. — Afironomical Tables, and Obfervations. IS E NT Mr. Williamfon to acquaint Captain Gore with i779. the death of Captain Clerke, and received a letter from , him, ordering me to ufe all my endeavours to keep in com- Sund*y2--pany with the Difcovery; and, in cafe of a feparation, to O o 2 make 1779- make the bed of my way to the harbour of St. Peter and Augult. J J *-„-1 St. Paul. At noon, we were in latitude 530 8' North, longitude 1600 40' Ealt, with Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bearing Weft. We had light airs in the afternoon, which lafted through Monday 23. forcnoon 0f tne 23d. At noon, a frefh breeze fpringing up from the Eaflward, we flood in for the entrance of Awatfka Bay ; and at fix in the evening, faw it bearing Wefl North Wefl half Wefl, diftant five leagues. At eight, the light houfe, in which we now found a good light, bore North Weft by Wefl, three miles diftant. The wind about this time died away ; but the tide being in our favour, we fent the boats ahead, and towed beyond the narrow parts of the entrance; and, at one o'clock in the morning of the Tuefday24. 24th, the ebb tide fetting againfl us, we dropped anchor. , At nine, we weighed, and turned up the bay with light airs, and the boats flill ahead till one; when, by the help of a frefh breeze, we anchored, before three in the afternoon, in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, with our enfign half flaff up, on account of our carrying the body of our late Captain ; and were foon after followed by the Difcovery. We had no fooner anchored, than our old friend, the .Serjeant, who was flill the Commander of the place, came on board with a prefent of berries, intended for our poor deccafed Captain. He was exceedingly affected when we told him of his death, and fhewed him the coffin that contained his body. And as it was Captain Gierke's particular rcqueft to be buried on fhore, and, if poffible, in the church of Paratounca, we took the prefent opportunity of explaining this matter to the Serjeant, and confulting with him about the proper ftcps to be taken on the occafion. In the courfe of our converfation, which, for want of an interpre- 6 ter, ter, was carried on but imperfectly, we learned that Pro-feiTor de L'Ifle, and feveral Ruffian gentlemen, who died here, had been buried in the ground near the barracks, at the oftrog of St. Peter and St. Paul's; and that this place would be preferable to Paratounca, as the church was to be removed thither the next year. It was therefore determined, that we fhould wait for the arrival of the Pried of Paratounca, whom the Serjeant advifed us to fend for, as the only perfon that could fatisfy our inquiries on this fubject:. The Serjeant having, at the fame time, fignified his intentions of fending off an exprefs to the Commander at Bolcheretfk, to acquaint him with our arrival, Captain Gore availed himfelf of that occafion of writing him a letter, in which he rcquefled that fixteen head of black cattle might be fent with all poffible expedition. And becaufe the Commander did not underffand any language except his own, the nature of our requefl was made known to the Serjeant, who readily undertook to fend, along with our letter, an explanation of its contents. We could not help remarking, that, although the country was much improved in its appearance fince we were laft here, the Ruffians looked, if poffible, wor'fe now than they did then. It is to be owned, they obferved, that this was alfo the cafe with us ; and as neither party feemed to like to be told of their bad looks, wc found mutual confolation in throwing the blame upon the country, whofe green anc? lively complexion, wc agreed, eaft a deadnefs and fallow-nefs upon our own. The irruption of the volcano, which was fo violent when we failed out of the bay, we found, had done no damage here, notwithstanding flones had fallen at the oftrog, of the fize ij79- fize of a goofe's egg. This was all the news wc had to in- Auguft. ° 00 c—^—1 quire after, and all they had to tell; excepting that of the arrival of Sopofnikoff from Oonalafhka, who took charge of the pacquet Captain Cook had fent to the Admiralty, and which, it gave us much fatisfaction to find, had been forwarded. Wedncf. 25. in the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commiffions, in confequence of Captain Clerke's death ; appointing himfelf to the command of the Refolution, and me to the command of the Difcovery; and Mr. Lanyan, mailer's Mate of the Refolution, who had ferved in that capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant Lieutenancy. Thefe promotions produced the following farther arrangements: Lieutenants Burney and Rickman were removed from the Difcovery, to be Firft and Second Lieutenants of the Refolution ; and * Lieutenant Williamfon was appointed Firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery. Captain Gore alfo permitted me to take into the Difcovery, four Midfhipmen, who had made themfelves ufeful to me in agronomical calculations, and whofe af-fiftance was now particularly necelfary, as we had no ephe-meris for the prefent year. And, that altronomical obfervations might continue to be made in both fhips, Mr. Bayley took my place in the Refolution. The fame day we were vifited by the Pope Romanoff Vcrefhagcn, the worthy Prieft of Paratounca. He expreffed his forrow at the death of Captain Clerke in a manner that did honour to his feelings, and confirmed the account given by the Serjeant, refpecting the intended removal of the church to the harbour; adding, that the timber was actually preparing, but leaving the choice of either place entirely to Captain Gore, 5 The The Difcovery, as has been mentioned, had fullered great damage from the ice, particularly on the 23d day of July; v.—«—J and having, ever fince, been exceedingly leaky, it was imagined that fome of her timbers had ffarted. Captain Gore therefore fent the carpenters of the Refolution to aflift our own in repairing her ; and accordingly, the forehold being cleared, to lighten her forward, they were fet to work to rip the damaged fheathing from the larboard bow. This operation difcovered, that three feet of the third flrake, under the wale, were ffaved, and the timbers within ffarted. A tent was next erected, for the accommodation of fuch of our people as were employed on fhore; and a party were fent a mile into the country, to the Northward of the harbour, to fell timber. The obfervatories were erected at the Wefl end of the village, near a tent, in which Captain Gore and myfelf took up our abode. The farther we proceeded in removing the fheathing, the ThurfdayzG. more we difcovered of the decayed ftate of the fhip's hull. The next morning, eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be fo exceedingly rotten, as to make it neceffary to lhift it. This left us for fome time at a fland, as nothing was to be found, in either fhip, wherewith to replace it, unlefs we chofe to cut up a top mart; an expedient not to be had recourfe to, till all others failed. The carpenters were therefore fent on fhore in the afternoon, in fearch of a tree big enough for the purpofe. Luckily they found a birch, which I believe was the only one of fufficient fize in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which had been fawed down by us when we were laft here ; fo that it had the advantage of having lain fome time to feafon. This was fhaped on the fpot, and brought on board the next morning. As •779- As the feafon was now fo far advanced, I was fearful left Auguu. \—-v-—j any delay or hindrance fhould arife, on our parts, to Captain Gore's farther views of difcovery, and therefore gave orders that no more fheathing fhould be ripped off, than was abfo-lutely neceffary for repairing the damages fuflained by the ice. This I did, being apprehcnfivc of their meeting with more decayed planks, which, I judged, had much better remain in that flate, than be filled up with green birch, upon a fuppolition that fuch was to be had. All hands were, at prefent, bulily employed in feparate duties, that every thing might be in readinefs for fea, againfl the time our carpenters mould have finifhed their work. We fet apart four men to haul the feine for falmon, which were caught in great abundance, and found to be of an excellent quality. After fupplying the immediate wants of both mips, wc falted down near a hogfhead a day. The invalids, who were four in number, were employed in gathering greens, ± and in cooking for the parties on fhore. Our powder was alfo landed, in order to be dried; and the fea-horfe blubber, with which both fhips, in our paffage to the North (as has been before related), had flored themfelves, was now boiled down for oil, which was become a neceffary article, our candles having long fince been expended. The cooper was fully engaged in his department: and in this manner were both fhips companies employed in their feveral occupa- Saturday 28. tions, till Saturday afternoon, which was given up to all our men, except the carpenters, for the purpofe of waffling their linen, and getting their clothes in fome little order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sun--day. Sunday ?9, In the afternoon of that day, we paid the lafl offices to Captain Clerke. The officers and men of both fhips walked in THE P A C I FT C OCEA N, 280 in proceflion to the grave, whilft the fhips fired minute- guns j and the fervice being ended, the marines fired three •> vollies. He was interred under a tree, which ftands on rifing ground, in the valley to the North fide of the harbour, where the hofpital and ftore houfes are fituated ; Captain Gore having judged this fituation moft agreeable to the laft wifhes of the deceafed, for the reafons above-mentioned and the Pricft of Paratounca having pointed out a fpot for his grave, which, he faid, would be as near as he could guefs, in the centre of the new church. This reverend Pallor walked in the proceflion, along with the gentleman who read the fervice; and all the Ruffians in the garrifon were affcmbled, and attended with great refpect: and fo- lemnity. On the 30th, the different parties returned to their refpec- Monday 30. tive employments, as mentioned in the courfe of the preceding week; and on the qd of September, the carpenters ThurfdUyT. having fhifted the rotten and damaged planks, and repaired and caulked the fheathing of the larboard bow, proceeded to rip off the fheathing that had been injured by the ice, from the flarboard fide. Here, again, they difcovered four feet of a plank, in the third ftrake under the wale, fo fhaken, as to make it neceffary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and the fheathing repaired on the 3d. Friday 3-In the afternoon of the fame day, we got on board fome ballad, unhung the rudder, and fent it on fhore, the lead of the pintles being found entirely worn away, and a great part of the fheathing rubbed off. As the carpenters of the Refolution were not yet wanted, we got this fet to rights the next day, but finding the rudder out of all proportion heavy, even Saturday 4. heavier than that of the Refolution, we let it remain on fhore, in order to dry and lighten. Vol. III. P p The The fame day, an enfign arrived from Bolcheretfk with a letter from the Commander to Captain Gore, which we put into the Serjeant's hands, and, by his affiflance, were made to underfland, that orders had been given about the cattle ; and that they might be expected here in a few days; and, moreover, that Captain ShmalefF, the prefent Commander, would himfelf pay us a vifit immediately on the arrival of a floop which was daily expected from Okotzk. The young officer, who brought the letter, was the fon of the Captain Lieutenant Synd, who commanded an expedition on difcovery, between Afia and America, eleven years ago, and rc-fided at this time at Okotzk *. He informed us, that he was fent to receive our directions, and to take care to get us fup_ plied with whatever our fervice might require ; and that he fhould remain with us, till the Commander was himfelf able to leave Bolcheretfk ; after which he was to return, that the garrifon there might not be left without an officer. On the 5th, the parties that were on fhore returned on board, and were employed in fcrubbing the fliip's bottom, * See all that is known of his voyage, and a Chart of his difcoveries, in Mr. Coxc's Account of Rujfxan Difcoveries between Afta and America. We were not able to learn, from the Ruffians in Kamtfchatka, a more perfect account of Synd than we now find is given by Mr. Coxc; and yet they feemed difpofed to communicate all that they really knew. Major Behm could only inform us, in general, that the expedition had mifcarried as to its object, and that the commander had fallen under much blame. It appeared evidently, that he had been on the coaft of America to the Southward of Cape Prince of Wales, between the latitude of 64° and 650; and it is moft probable, that his having got too far to the Northward to meet with fea-otters, which the Ruffians, in all their attempts at difcoveries, feem to have principally in view, and his returning without having made any that promifed commercial advantages, was the caufe of his difgrace, and of the great contempt with which the Ruffians always fpokc of this officer's voyage. The clufter of iflands, placed inSynd's chart, between the latitude of 6i° and 650, is undoubtedly the fame with the ifland, called, by Becring, St. Laurence's, and thofe we named Clerke's, Anderfon's, and King's Iflands j but their proportionate fize, and relative fituation, arc exceedingly erroneous. 3 and and getting in eight tons of mingle ballad. We alfo got up SeJ^er two of our guns, that had been flowed in the fore-hold, and ^—_* mounted them on the deck, being now about to vifit nations, our reception amongfl whom might a good deal depend on the refpectability of our appearance. The Refolution hauled on fhore on the 8th, to repair fome wedncf. 8. damages, which fhe had alfo received among the ice, in her cutwater; and our carpenters, in their turn, were fent to her affiflance. About this time we began to brew a flrong decoction of a fpecics of dwarf-pine that grows here in great abundance, thinking that it might hereafter be ufeful in making beer, and that we fhould probably be able to procure fugar or melaffes to ferment with it at Canton. At all events, I was fure it would be ferviceable as a medicine for the fcurvy; and was more particularly defirous of fupply-ing myfelf with as much of it as I could procure, becaufe moil of the preventatives we had brought out, were either ufed, or fpoiled by keeping. By the time we had prepared a hogfhead of it, the fhip's copper was difcovered to be very thin, and cracked in many places. This obliged me to defift, and to give orders, that it fhould be ufed as fpa-ringly, for the future, as poffible. It might, perhaps, be an ufeful precaution for thofe who may hereafter be engaged in long voyages of this kind, either to provide themfelves with a fpare copper, or to fee that the copper ufually furnifhed be of the flrongeil kind. The various extra-fervices, in which it will be found neceffary to employ them, and efpccially the important one of making antifcorbutic decoctions, feem abfolutely to require fome fuch provifion; and 1 fhould rather recommend the former on account P p 2 of of the additional quantity of fuel that would be confumed in heating thick coppers. In the morning of the 10th, the boats from both fhips were fent to tow into the harbour a Ruffian galliot from Okotzk. She had been thirty-five days on her paffage, and had been feen from the light-houfe a fortnight ago, beating up toward the mouth of the bay. At that time, the crew had fent their only boat on fhore for water, of which they now began to be in great want; and the wind frefhening, the boat was lofl on its return ; and the galliot, being driven out to fea again, had fuffered exceedingly. There were fifty foldiers in her, with their wives and children; and feveral other paffengers, befides the crew, which confifled of twenty-five; fo that they had upward of an hundred fouls on board. A great number for a veffef of eighty tons ; and that was alfo heavy laden with flores and provifions. Both this galliot, and the floop we faw here in May, are built like the Dutch doggers. Soon after fhe had come to anchor, we received a vifit from frFut-parouchicb, or Sub-lieutenant, who was a paffenger in the galliot, and fent to take the command of this place. Part of the foldiers, we underflood, were alfo defigned to reinforce the garrifon ; and two pieces of fmall cannon were landed, as an additional defence to the town. It mould feem, from thefe circumflances, that our vifit here had drawn the attention of the Ruffian Commanders in Siberia to the defencelefs fituation of the place ; and I was told by the honeft Serjeant, with many fignificant fhrugs, that, as we had found our way into it, other nations might do the fame, fome of whom might not be altogether fo welcome. 5 Next Next mornino; the Refolution hauled off from the more, „ I179* September. having repaired the damages fhe had fuftained by the ice; <-.-' and, in the courfe of the day, we got from the galliot a fmall Saturday quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine ; canvafs was the only thing we afked for, with which their fcanty ffore did not put it into their power to fupply us. We alfo received from her an hundred and forty fkins of flour, amounting to 13,782 pounds Englifh, after deducting five pounds for the weight of each bag. We had a conflant courfe of dry weather till this day, when there came on a heavy rain, accompanied with ilrong fqualls of wind, which obliged us to flrike our yards and topmafls. The 12th, being Sunday, was kept as a day of refl; but Sunday iu the weather unfortunately continuing foul, our men could not derive the advantage from it wc wifhed, by gathering the berries that grew in great quantities and varieties on the coafl; and taking other paflime on fhore. The fame day, Enfign Synd left us to return to Bolcheretfk with the remainder of the foldiers that came in the galliot. Fie had been our conflant guefl during his flay. Indeed, we could not but confider him, on his father's account, as, in fome meafure, belonging to us, and entitled, as one of the family of difcoverers, to a fhare in our affections. We had hitherto admitted the Serjeant to our tables, in confideration of his being Commander of the place j and, moreover, becaufe he was a quick, fenfible man, and comprehended better than any other the few Ruffian words we had )earned. Enfign Synd had very politely fuffered him to enjoy the fame privileges during his flay; but, on the arrival of the new Commander from Okotzk, the Serjeantr for „ 1779- for fome caufe or other, which wc could not learn, fell into September. «-y-' difgrace, and was no longer fullered to fit down in the company of his own officers. It was in vain to think of making any attempt to obtain an indulgence, which, though it would have been highly agreeable to us, was doubtlcfs incompatible with their difciplinc. Wcdaef.is. On Wcdncfday wc had finifhed the ftowage of the holds ; got on board all our wood and water ; and were ready to put to fea at a day's notice. It is however neceffary to obferve, that though every thing was in this degree of readinefs on board, the cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei; and as frefh provifions were the mofl important article of our wants, and in a great meafure neceffary for the health of the men, we could not think of taking our departure without them. We therefore thought this a favourable opportunity (efpecially as there was an appearance of fine weather) of taking fome amufement on fhore, and acquiring a little knowledge of the country. Accordingly, Captain Gore propofed a party of bear-hunting, which wre all very readily came into. Friday i7. We did not fet out on this expedition till Friday the 17th, in order to give a day's reft to the Hofpodin Ivafkin, a new acquaintance, that was to be of our party, and who came down here on Wednefday. This gentleman, who, we un-derflood, ufually rcfides at Verchnei, had been defired by Major Behm to attend us on our return to the harbour, in order to be our interpreter; and the accounts wc had heard of him, before his arrival, had excited in us a great curiofity to fee him. He is of a confiderable family in Ruffia. His father was a General in the Emprefs's fervice; and he himfelf, after having THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 295 having received his education partly in France, and partly _ 17?9; 0 1 * 1 * September. in Germany, had been page to the Emprefs Elizabeth, and \---* an Enfign in her guards. At the age of fixteen he was knowted, had his note flit, and was banifhed firft to Siberia and afterward to Kamtfchatka, where he had now lived thirty-one years. He was a very tall thin man, with a face all over furrowed with deep wrinkles; and bore, in his whole figure, the flrongeft marks of old age, though he had fcarcely reached his fifty-fourth year. To our very great difappointment, he had fo totally forgotten both his German and French, as not to be able to fpeak a fentence, nor readily to underfland what was faid to him, in either of thefe languages. Wc found ourfelvcs thus unfortunately deprived of what we flattered ourfelvcs would have turned out a favourable opportunity of getting farther information relative to this country. We had alfo promifed ourfelvcs much pleafure from the hiftory of this extraordinary man, which he probably would have been induced to relate to flrangers, who might perhaps be of fome little fervice to him, but who could have no inducement to take advantage, from any thing he might fay, to do him an injury. No one here knew the caufe of his banifhment; but they took it for granted, that it muft have been for fomething very atrocious; particularly, as two or three Commanders of Kanuf hatka hive endeavoured to get him recalled, fince the pref Eitiprefs's reign ; but far from fucceeding in this, they /e not beei . cn able to get the place of his banifhnu n: changed. le told us, that, for twemv years, he had not called brea , nor had been allowed fubliftence of any kind what foe ver j but that, during this period he had lived anion- he Karri (cludales, on what his own activity and toil in tl chace had furnifhed. That afterward terward he had a fmall penfion granted; and that fince Major Behm came to the command, his fituation had been infinitely mended. The notice that worthy man had taken of him, and his having often invited him to become his gueft, had been the occafion of others following his example ; befides which, he had been the means of getting his penfion increafed to one hundred roubles a year; which is the common pay of an Enfign in all parts of the Em-prefs's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of all the officers is double. Major Behm told us, that he had obtained pcrmiffion to take him to Okotzk, which was to be the place of his refidence in future ; but that he fhould leave him behind for the prefent, on an idea, that he might, on our return to the bay, be ufeful to us as an interpreter. Having given orders to the Firft Lieutenants of both fhips, to let the rigging have fuch a repair as the fupply of flores, we had lately received, would permit, we fet out on our hunting party, under the direction of the corporal of the Kamtfchadales, intending, before we began to look for our game, to proceed flraight to the head of Behm's Harbour. It is an inlet on the Weft fide of the bay (which we had named after that officer, from its being a favourite place of his, and having been furveyed by himfelf), and is called by the natives Tareinfka. In our way toward this harbour, we met the Town of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in a canoe, with his wife and two children, and another Kamtfchadale. He had killed two feals upon a round ifland, that lies in the entrance of the harbour, with which, and a great quantity of berries that he had gathered, he was returning home. As the wind had veered to the South Weft, we now changed our route, by , his his advice: and, inflead of going up the harbour, directed . *779 ... , Septem our courfe to the Northward, toward a pool of water that ^—/ lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the bears. We had fcarcc landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the Eaflward, and a fecond time deflroyed all hopes of coming up with our game; for the Kamtfchadales affured us, that it was in vain to ex-peel; to meet with bears, whilfl we were to the windward ; owing to their being poffeffed of an uncommon acutenefs in fecnting their purfuers, which enabled them, under fuch circumflances, to avoid the danger, whilft it is yet at a very great diflance. We returned therefore to the boat, and paffed the night on the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpofe ; and the next day, by the advice of our Saturday guides, croffed the bay, and went to the head of Rakoweena Harbour. Having here fecurcd the boats, we proceeded with all our luggage on foot, and, after a walk of five or fix miles, came to the fea-fide, a league to the Northward of the Light-houfe Head. From hence, as far as we could fee toward Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, there is a continued narrow border of low level ground adjoining to the fea, which is covered with heath, and produces great abundance of berries, particularly thofe called partridge and crow berries. We were told, we fhould not fail to meet with a number of bears, feeding upon thefe berries; but that the weather being Ihowery, was unfavourable for us. Accordingly, we directed our courfe along this plain; and though we faw feveral bears at a diflance, wc could never, with all our management, contrive to get within ihot of them. Our diverfion was therefore changed to fpearing of Vol. III. Q^q falmon, September ^amion' which we faw pufhing, in great numbers, through v-—the furf into a fmall river. I could not help obferving, how much inferior our Kamtfchadales were at this method of fifhing, to the people at Oonalalhka; nor were their inftru-ments, although pointed with iron, near fo good for the purpofe, nor to be compared in neatnefs, to thofe of the Americans, though pointed only with bone. On inquiring into the reafon of this inferiority, I was informed by the corporal, who had lived many years amongfl the Americans, that formerly the Kamtfchadales made ufe of the fame kind of darts and fpears with the Americans, headed and barbed with bone, and were not lefs dexterous in the management of them than the latter. We could not underfland one another fufticicntly for me to learn the caufe of this change; probably it was one of the not unufuai effects of a forced and imperfect ffate of improvement. It fell out very opportunely, that the water afforded us a little prey ; for befides our ill fuccefs in the chace by land, we had alfo been disappointed in our expectations of fhooting wild fowl, on a fupply of which we had in fome meafure depended for our fubfiflence; and on its failure, began to think that we had been full long abfent from head-quarters. Our Kamtfchadales now difcovered, that the want of fuccefs, in not meeting with game, was owing to the party being too large, and to the unavoidable noife that was the confequence of it. We therefore agreed to feparate; Iva-Ikin, the corporal, and myfelf, forming one party ; Captain Gore, and the reft of the company, the other. Accordingly, after pafnng the night under our tent, we Sunday i9. fet out on the morning of the 19th, by different routes, meaning to take a circuit round the country, and meet at Saint Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The party to which I belonged, „ l77^ * ° September. took the courfe of the river, at the mouth of which we had ■_-v—* fifhed for the falmon; and, after being thoroughly foaked by the heavy rains that fell all the morning, wc came about three in the afternoon to fome old balagans, where a Kamtfchadale village had been formerly lituated, without meeting with a fingle bear during the whole of a long and tedious walk. It was our firfl intention to have remained here all night, in order to have refumed our chace early the next morning ; but the weather clearing, and at the fame time , a frefh breeze fpringing up from a quarter unfavourable to our defigns, the Hofpodin, whom former fufferings had made very unfit to bear much fatigue, and who feemed, at prefent, more particularly diftreflcd from having emptied his muff-box, began to be very importunate with us to return home. It was fome time before the old corporal confented, alleging, that we were at a great diflance from the harbour; and that, on account of the badnefs of the way, the night would probably overtake us before we reached the end of our journey. At length, however, he yielded to Ivafkin's intreaties, and conducted us along the fide of a number of fmall lakes, with which the flat part of this country feems much to abound. Thefe lakes are from half a mile to two miles in length, and about half a mile broad ; the water is frefli and clear, and they are full of a red coloured fifh, refembling, both in fliape and fize, a fmall falmon ; of which a more particular defcription will be given hereafter. The banks of thefe lakes were covered with the fragments of fifh. that the bears had half eaten, and which caufed an intolerable flench. Wc often came upon the fpots which the bears had juft left, but were never able even to come within fight of them. Q^q % It I779- It was nidn before we reached the fhips, and we had Septeinber. 0 r >—-v~-> then been twelve hours upon our legs. Poor Ivafkin found himfelf exceedingly tired and overcome with fatigue; probably, he was more fenfible of it, for want of a fupply of muff; for, every ftep he took, his hand dived mechanically into his pocket, and drew out his huge empty box. We had fcarccly got into the tent, when the weather fet in exceedingly rough and wet. We congratulated ourfelvcs, that we had not ftayed out another day, the Hofpodin's box was re-plenifhed, and we forgot the fatigues and ill fuccefs of our expedition over a good fupper. Monday 20. I was exceedingly forry, on being told the next day, that our friend the ferjeant had undergone corporal punifh-mcnt, during our abfence, by command of the old Put-pa-rouchick. None of our people had been able to learn what was the caufe of his difpleafure; but it was imagined to have arifen from fome little jealoufy fublifting between them, on account of the civility which we had fhewn to the former. However, having every reafon to believe, that the offence, whatever it might be, did not call for fo difgraceful a chaflifement, we could not help being both forry and much provoked at it, as the terms on which we had lived with him, and the intercft we were known to take in his affairs, made the affront in fome meafurc perfonal to ourfelvcs. For it has not yet been mentioned, that we had con-fulted with the late worthy Commander, Major Behm* who was alfo his friend, by what means we might be moft likely to fucceed in doing him fome fervice, for the good order he had kept in the ojlrog during our flay, and for his readinefs, on all occaftons, to oblige us. The Major ad-vifed a letter of recommendation to the Governor General, which Captain Clerke had accordingly given him, and which, which, backed with his own reprefentations, he had no *779« doubt would get the ferjeant advanced a ftep higher in his tSepte^"ber; profeflion. We did not choofe to make any remonllrance on this fubject, till the arrival of Captain Shmaleff. Indeed our inability, from the want of language, to enter into any difcuf-fion of the bufinefs, made it advifable to come to this determination. However, when the Put-parouchick paid us his next vifit, we could not help teffifying our chagrin, by receiving him very coolly. The 22d, being the anniverfary of his Majefly's corona- Wcdnef. as.-, tion, twenty-one guns were fired, and the handfomeft feafl our fituation would allow of was prepared, in honour of the day. As we were fitting down to dinner, the arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced. This was a moll agreeable furprize ; in the firft place, becaufe he arrived fo opportunely to partake of the good fare and feflivity of the occafion; and, in the next, becaufe, in our lafl accounts of him, we were given to undcrftand, that the effects of a feverc ill-nefs had made him unequal to the journey. We were glad to find this had been merely an excufe; that, in fact, he: was afhamed of coming empty-handed, knowing we mull be in great want of tea, fugar, &ct <&c.; and that therefore, he had deferred his fetting out, in daily expectation of the. floop from Okotfk; but having no tidings of her, and dreading left we fhould fail, without his having paid us a vifit, he was determined to fet out, though with nothing better to prefent to us, than apologies for the poverty of Bolcheretfk. At the fame time, he acquainted us, that our not having received the fixteen head of black cattle, we had defired might be fent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at t '779- at Verchnei, which had prevented their fetting out. We September. ' r t> «—-» made the bed anfwer we were able, to fo much politenefs and generofity; and the next day, on coming on board the Refolution, he was faluted with eleven guns. Specimens of all our curiofities were prefented to him ; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch, and a fowling-piece. Saturday 2;. The next day, he was entertained on board the Difcovery; and on the 25th, he took leave of us to return to Bolcheretfk. He could not be prevailed on to lengthen his vifit, having fome expectations, as he told us, that the Sub-governor General, who was at this time making a tour through all the provinces of the Governor General of Jakutfk, might arrive in the iloop that was daily expected from Okotfk. Before his departure, and without any interference of ours, he re-inflated the Serjeant in the command of this place, having determined to take the Put-parouchick along with him ; at the fame time, wc undcrflood that he was highly difpleafcd with him, on account of the punifhment that had been inflicted on the Serjeant, and for which there did not appear to be the flightefl grounds. Captain Shmaleff's great readinefs to give us every pof-fible proof of his defire to oblige us, encouraged us to afk a fmall favour, for another of our Kamtfchadale friends. It was to requite an old foldier, whofe houfe had been, at all times, open to the inferior officers, and who had done both them, and all the crew, a thoufand good offices. The Captain mofl obligingly complied with our requefl, and dubbed him (which was all he wifhed for) a corporal, upon the fpot; and ordered him to thank the Englifh officers for his great promotion. It may not here be improper to ob-3 ferve, ferve, that, in the Ruffian army, the inferior clafs of officers r ln%- ' ' ". " September. enjoy a degree of pre eminence above the private men, with 1-i-' which wc, in our lcrvice, are in a great meafure unacquainted. It was no fmall aftonifhment to us, to fee a Serjeant keep up all the ftate, and exact all the refpect, from all beneath him, belonging to a field officer. It may be farther remarked, that there are many more gradations of rank amongft them, than are to be met with in other countries. Between a ferjeant and a private man, there arc not lefs than four intermediate fleps j and I have no doubt, but that the advantages arifmg from this fyftem are found to be very confiderable. The falutary effects of little subordinate ranks in our fea-fervice, cannot be queflioncd. It gives rife to great emulation, and the fuperior officers are enabled to beftow, on almofl every pofliblc degree of merit, a reward proportioned to it. Having been incidentally led into this fubject, I fhall beg leave to add but one obfervation more, namely, that the dif-cipline of the Ruffian army, though at this diflance from the feat of government, is of the ftricteft and fevcrefl kind; from which even the commilfioned officers are not exempt. The punifhment of the latter for fmall offences is imprisonment, and a bread and water diet. An Enfign, a good friend of ours at this place, told us, that for having been concerned in a drunken nor, he was confined in the black hole for three months* and fed upon bread and water; which, he faid, fo fhattered his nerves, that lie had never fmce had ipirits for a common convivial meeting. I accompanied Captain Shmaleff to the entrance of Awatfka River, and, having bid him farewel took this opportunity of paying 4 vilit to the Prieil of Purutounca* On ounday the September 26th, I attended him to church. The congregation con-v-—„—^ lifted of his own family, three Kamtfchadale men, and three Sunday 26, hoys, who afllfled in fmging part of the fervice; the whole of which was performed in a very folemn and edifying manner. The church is of wood, and by far the befl building cither in this town, or in that of St. Peter and St. Paul. It is ornamented with many paintings, particularly with two pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul, prefented by Beering ; and which, in the real richnefs of their drapery, would carry oif the prize from the firft of our European performances; for all the principal parts of it arc made of thick plates of folid fdver, faliened to the canvafs, and fafhioned into the various foldings of the robes with which the figures were •clothed. Monday27; The next day, I fet on foot another hunting party, and put myfelf under the direction of the Clerk of the parifh, who was a celebrated bear-huntcr. We arrived, by fun-fet, at the fide of one of the larger lakes. The next ftep was to conceal ourfelvcs as much as poflible; and this wc were able to do very effectually, among fome long grafs and brufh-wood, that grew clofe to the water's edge. We had not lain long in ambufli, before we had the pleafure to hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us j and our expectations were foon gratified, by the fight of one of them in the water, which feemed to be fwimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon, at this time, gave a confiderable light; and when the animal had advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it, pretty ■nearly at the fame time. The beaft immediately turned fhort on one fide, and fet up a noife, which could not properly be called roaring, nor growling, nor yelling, but was a mixture a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond defcription. Wc plainly faw that it was fevercly wounded, and that with difficulty it gained the bank, and retreated to fome thick bufh.es at a little diftance. It flill continued to make the fame loud and terrible noife ; and though the Kamtfchadales were perfuaded it was mortally wounded, and could get no farther, yet they thought it moll advifcable not to rouic it again for the prefent. It was, at this time, pall nine o'clock; and the night becoming ovcrcail, and threatening a change of weather, we thought it mofl prudent to return home, and defer the gratification of our curiofity till morning, when we returned to the fpot, and found the bear dead in the place to which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common fize. As the account of our firfl hunting party will be apt to give the reader a wrong idea of the method in which this fport is ufually conducted ; it may not be amifs to add a few more words on the fubject; and which I am the better able to do fince this laft expedition. When the natives come to the ground frequented by the bears, which they contrive to reach about fun-fct, the firfl flcp is to look for their tracks, to examine which are the frefheft, and the bed fituatcd with a view to concealment, and taking aim at the bead, cither as he is paffing by, or advancing in front, or going from them. Thefe tracks are found in the greatcfl numbers, leading from the woods down to the lakes, and among the long fedgy grafs and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of ambufcade being determined upon, the hunters next fix in the ground the crutches, upon which their firelocks are made to reft, pointing them in the direction they mean to make their Vol. III. R r fhot. fhot. This done, they kneel or lie down, as the circumflances of the cover require; and, with their bear-fpears by their fide, wait for their game. Thefe precautions, which are chiefly taken, in order to make fure of their mark, are, on feveral accounts, highly expedient. Tor, in the firfl place, ammunition is fo dear at Kamtfchatka, that the price of a bear will not purchafe more of it than is fuflicient to load a mufket four or five times; and, what is more material, if the bear be not rendered incapable of purfuit by the firfl mot, the confequences are often fatal. He immediately makes toward the place from whence the noife and fmoke iffue, and attacks his adverfaries with great fury. It is im-pofllble for them to reload, as the animal is feldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards diflance, when he is fired at: fo that, if he does not fall, they immediately put themfelves in a pofture to receive him upon their fpears; and their fafety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal flab, as he firfl comes upon them. If he parries the thrufl (which, by the extraordinary flrength and agility of their paws, they are often enabled to do), and thereby breaks in upon his adverfaries, the conflict: becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone fufhee to pay the forfeit. There are two feafons of the year when this diverfion, or occupation, as it may be rather called, is more particularly dangerous: in the fpring, when the bears firfl come forth, after having fubfifled, as is univerfally afferted here, on fucking their paws through the winter; and efpecially if the froll happen to be fevere, and the ice not to be broken up in the lake at that time, by which means they are deprived of their ordinary and expected food. Under thefe circumflances, they foon become exceedingly famifhed, and 4 fierce fierce and ravage in proportion. They will purfue the na- Se1™^ tives by the fcent ; and, as they now prowl about out of »——f their ufual tracks, frequently come upon them unawares; and when this happens, as the Kamtfchadales have not the fmalleft notion of mooting flying, nor even at an animal running, or in any way except with their piece on a reft, the bear-hunters often fall a facrifice to their hunger. The other feafon in which it is dangerous to come in their wayi is at the time of their copulation, which is generally about this time of the year. An extraordinary inftance of natural affection in thefe animals hath been already mentioned. The chace affords a variety of a fimilar nature, and not lefs affecting; many of which were related to me. The Kamtfchadales derive great advantage in hunting, from this circumftance. They never venture to fire upon a young bear, when the mother is near' for, if the cub drop, fhe becomes enraged to a degree little fhort of madnefs ; and if flie get fight of the enemy, will only quit her revenge with her life. On the contrary, if the dam be fhot, the cubs will not leave her fide, even after fhe has been dead a long time; but continue about her, fhewing, by a variety of affecting actions and geftures, marks of the dcepefl affliction, and thus become an eafy prey to the hunters. Nor is the fagacity of the bears, if the Kamtfchadales are to be credited, lefs extraordinary, or lefs worthy to be remarked, than their natural affection. Of this they have a thoufand ftories to relate. I fhall content myfelf with mentioning one inftance, which the natives fpeak of as a well-known fact; and that is, the flratageni they have rccourfe to, in order to catch the bareins, which are confiderably Rrs too too fwift of foot for them. Thefe animals keep together in large herds; they frequent moflly the low grounds, and love to browfe at the feet of rocks and precipices. The bear hunts them by fcent, till he come in fight; when he advances warily, keeping above them, and concealing himfelf amongfl the rocks, as he makes his approaches, till he gets immediately over them, and nigh enough for his purpofe. He then begins to pufh down, with his paws, pieces of the rock amongfl the herd below. This manoeuvre is not followed by any attempt to purfue, until he find he has maimed one of the flock, upon which a courfe immediately enfues, that proves fuccefsful, or otherwife, according to the hurt the barcin has received. I cannot conclude this digrefhon, without obferving, that the Kamtfchadales very thankfully acknowledge their obligations to the bears for what little advancement they have hitherto made, either in the feiences or polite arts. They confefs that they owe to them all their fkill both in phyfic and furgery; that by remarking with what herbs thefe animals rub the wounds they have received, and what they have recourfe to when fick and languid, they have become acquainted with mofl of the fimples in ufe among them, cither in the way of internal medicine, or external application. But what will appear fomewhat more fingular, is, they acknowledge the bears likewife for their dancing mailers. Indeed, the evidence of one's fenfes puts this out of difpute; for the bear-dance of the Kamtfchadales is an exact counterpart of every attitude and geflure peculiar to this animal, through its various functions; and this is the foundation and ground-work of all their other dances, and what they value themfelves mofl upon. i I re- THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 3 i returned to the fhips on the 28th, very well pleafed with 1779- m • Septemb my cxcurfion, as it had afforded me an opportunity of fee- u—.— ing a little more of the country, and of obferving the man- Tuef ay ners and behaviour of the Kamtfchadales, when freed from that conflraint, which they evidently lie under in the company of the Ruffians. No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, r\w^y when Captain Gore went to Paratounca, to put up in the church there an efcutcheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, with an infeription upon it, fetting forth Captain Clerke's age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at the time of his deceafe. We alfo affixed to the tree, under which he was buried, a board, with an infeription upon it to the fame effect. Before his departure, Captain Gore left orders with me to get the fhips out of the harbour into the bay, to be in rcadi-nefs to fail. We were prevented from doing this, by a violent gale of wind, which lafled the whole day of the firfl of oaobe October. However, on the 2d, both fhips warped out of l^^' the harbour, clear of the narrow paffage, and came to anchor in feven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the oftrog. The day before we went out of the harbour, the cattle arrived from Verchnei; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this capital and much-longed-for fupply, by eonfuming it frefli, Captain Gore came to a determination of flaying five or fix days longer. Nor was this time idly employed. The boats, pumps, fails, and rigging, of both fhips, thereby received an additional repair. And Captain Gore, fparing me fome molofles, and the ufe of the Refolu-tion's copper, I was enabled to brew a fortnight's beer for the the crew, and to make a farther proviiion of ten puncheons of flrong fpruce effence. The prefent fupply was the more acceptable, as our laft calk of fpirits, except a fmall quantity left in referve for cafes of neceffity, was now ferving out. The 3d was the name-day of the Emprefs; and we could want no inducement to ihew it every pollible refpect. Accordingly Captain Gore invited the Prieft of Paratounca, Ivafkin, and the Serjeant, to dinner; and an entertainment was alfo provided for the inferior officers of the garrifon, for the two Towns of Paratounca, and St. Peter and St. Paul, and for the other better fort of Kamtfchadale inhabitants. The reft of the natives, of every defcription, were invited to partake with the mips companies, who had a pound of good fat beef ferved out to each man; and what remained of our fpirits was made into grog, and divided amongft them. A falute of twenty-one guns was fired at the ufual hour; and the whole was conducted (confidering the part of her dominions it was in) in a manner not unworthy fo renowned and magnificent an Emprefs. On the 5th, we received, from Bolcheretfk, a frefh fupply of tea, fugar, and tobacco. This prefent had met Captain Shmaleff on his return, and was accompanied by a letter from him, in which he informed us, that the floop from Okotfk had arrived during his abfence, and that Madame Shmaleff, who was entirely in our interells, had loft no time in difpatching a courier, with the few prefents, of which our acceptance was requefted. The appearance of foul weather, on the 6th and 7th, prevented our unmooring; but on the morning of the 8th, we failed out toward the mouth of the bay, and hoifted in ail the the boats; when the wind, veering to the Southward, '779- f October, flopped our farther progrefs, and obliged us to drop anchor v_*.—* in ten fathoms ; the qfirog bearing due North, half a league diftant. The weather being foggy, and the wind from the fame quarter during the forenoon of the 9th, we continued in our Saturday?, ftation. At four in the afternoon, we again unmoored; but whilft we were, with great difficulty, weighing our laft anchor, I was told that the drummer of the marines had left the boat, which had juft returned from the village, and that he was laft feen with a Kamtfchadale woman, to whom his meffmates knew he had been much attached, and who had often been obferved perfuading him to flay behind. Though this man had been long ufelefs to us, from a fwelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, yet this made me the more unwilling he fhould be left behind, to become a miferable burthen, both to the Ruffians and himfelf. I therefore got the ferjeant to fend parties of foldiers, in different directions, in fearch of him, whilft fome of our failors went to a well known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him with his woman. On the return of this party, with our deferter, we weighed, and followed the Refolution out of the bay. Having at length taken our leave of St. Peter and St. Paul, I fhall conclude this chapter with a particular defcription of Awatfka bay, and the coafl adjoining; not only becaufe (its-three inlets included) it conflitutes perhaps the moft exten-five, and fafeft, harbour that has yet been difcovered ; but becaufe it is the only port in this part of the world, capable of admitting fhips of any confiderable burthen. The term. Bay, indeed, is perhaps not applicable, properly fpeaking, to to a place fo well flickered as Awatfka ; but then if muft be obferved, that from the loofe, undiftinguifhing manner, in which navigators have denominated certain fituations of fea and land, with refpect to each other, bays, roads, founds, harbours, &c. we have no denned and determinate ideas affixed to thefe words, fuflicient to warrant us in changing a popular name, for one that may appear more proper. The entrance into this bay, is in 520 51' North latitude, and 1580 48' Eafl longitude, and lies in the bight of another cxteriour bay, formedjjy Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, to the North, and Cape Gavareea to the South. The former of thefe headlands bears from the latter North Eafl by North, three quarters Eaft, and is diftant thirty-two leagues. The coafl, from Cape Gavareea to the entrance of Awatfka Bay, takes a direction nearly North, and is eleven leagues in extent, It confiRs of a chain of high, ragged cliffs, with detached rocks frequently lying off them. This coafl, at a diflance, prefents, in many parts, an appearance of bays or inlets, but on a nearer approach, the head lands were found connected by low ground. Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bears from the entrance of the bay, Eafl North Eaft a quarter Eafl, and is feventeen leagues diftant. On this fide, the fhore is low and flat, with hills riling behind, to a confiderable height. In the latitude of Cape Gavareea, there is an error of twenty-one miles in the Ruffian charts; its true latitude being zi'. This flriking difference of the land on each fide Awatfka pay, with their different bearings, are the heft guides to fleer for it, in coming from the Southward: and, in approaching it from the Northward, Cheepoonfkoi Nofs will make \'J+:*VX on At Coai\ »/• JdAITSVU^TKA KnliiiH-e ,y .VW.VTSKA .) iniii;-- ,0/>,iiil ntww t'i tl/' vrsi.TS.KA Bay wJkm (/„■ light-Houf<» on North Head tore s H""' ' "<<<<■ 7364 96 make itfclf very confpicuous; for it is a high projecting head-land, with a confiderable extent of level ground, lower than the Nofs, uniting it to the continent. It prefents the fame appearance, whether viewed from the North or South, and will warn the mariner not to be deceived, in imagining Awatfka Bay to lie in the bight, which the coafl forms to the Northward of this Nofs; and which might be the cafe, from the finking refemblance there is between a conical hill within this bight or bay, and one to the South of Awatfka Bay. I have been thus particular, in giving a minute defcription of this coafl, from our own experience of the want of it. For had we been furnifhed with a tolerable account of the form of the coafl, on each fide of Awatfka Bay, we mould, on our firfl arrival upon it, have got fafely within the bay two days before we did, and thereby have avoided part of the ftormy weather, which came on when we were plying off the mouth of the harbour. Befides, from the prevalence of fogs, in thefe feas, it muft frequently happen, that an obfervation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be got; to which we may add, that the deceptive appearances land makes, when covered with fnow, and when viewed through an hazy atmofphcre, both which circumflances prevail here, during the greateft part of the year, render the knowledge of a variety of difcriminating objects the more neceffary. Should, however, the weather be clear enough to admit a view of the mountains on the coafl in its neighbourhood, thefe will ferve to point out the fituation of Awatfka Bay, with a great deal of precifion. For to the South of it are two high mountains; that which is ncareft the bay, is Vol. ill. S f fhaped fhapcd like a fugar-loaf; the other, which is farther inland, does not appear fo high, and is flat at the top. To the North of the bay, are three very confpicuoirs mountains ; the Wcflcrnmoft is, to appearance, the higheft; the next is the volcano mountain, which may be known from the fmokc that iffues from its top, and likewife from fome high table-hills connected with it, and flretching to the Northward : thefe two are fomewhat peaked. The third, and the molt Northerly, might perhaps be more properly called a clufter of mountains, as it prefents to the fight feveral flat tops. When the navigator has got within the Capes, and into the outward bay, a perpendicular headland, with a light-houfe erected upon it, will point out the entrance of the bay of Awatika to the Northward. To the Eaflward of this head-land lie many funken rocks, flretching into the fea, to the diflance of two or three miles ; and which will fhew themfelves, if there be but a moderate fea or fwell. Four miles to the South of the entrance lies a fmall round ifland, very diflinguifliable from being principally compofed of-high pointed rocks, with one of them flrikingly remarkable, as being much larger, more peaked and perpendicular, than the reft. It is no way neceffary to be equally particular in the defcription of the bay itfclf, as of its approaches and environs;, fince no words can give the mariner fo perfect, an idea of it,, as the annexed plan. From this it will appear, that the entrance is at firfl near three miles wide, and in the narrow-eft part one mile and a half, and four miles long, in a* North North Well direction. Within the mouth is a noble bafon of twenty-five miles circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tarcinfka to the Wefl, of Rakoweena to the Eaft, Eafl, and the fmall one of St. Peter and St. Paul, where we lay, to the North. Tarcinfka harbour is about three miles in breadth, and twelve in length; it ftretches to the Eaft South Eaft, and is fcparated from the fea, at the bottom, by a narrow neck of land. The road into this harbour is perfectly free from rocks or fhoals. We had never lefs than feven fathoms water, as far as our furvey extended ; for we were not .able to get to the bottom of the harbour on account of the ice. The harbour of Rakoweena would defervc the preference over the other two, if its entrance were not impeded by a ihoal lying in the middle of the channel; which, in general, will make it neceffary to warp in, unlefs there be a leading wind. It is from one mile to half a mile in width, and three miles long, running at firft in a South Eaft, and afterward in an Eafterly direction. Its depth is from thirteen to three fathoms. xSt. Peter and St. Paul's is one of the moft convenient little harbours I ever faw. It will hold conveniently half a dozen ihips, moored head and ftcrn ; and is fit forgiving them any kind of repairs. The South fide is formed by a low fandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the oftrog is built; and whofe point may almofl be touched by fhips going in ; having three fathoms water clofe in with it. In the mid channel, which is no more than two hundred and feventy-eight feet ac.ro fs, there is fix fathoms and a half; the deepcfl water within is feven fathoms; and in every pare over a muddy bottom. We found fome inconvenience from the toughnefs of the ground, which conflantly broke the meffenger, and gave us a great deal of trouble in getting up S fa the the anchors. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour. The plan will likewife point out the fhoal that is to be avoided, lying off the Eaflern harbour, as well as the fpit within the entrance, flretching from the South Wefl fhore; and over which there is only three fathoms water. In order to fleer clear of the latter, a fmall ifland, or perhaps it may rather be called a large detached rock, lying on the Well fhore of the entrance, is to be fhut in with the land to the South of it j and, to fleer clear of the former, the Three Needle Rocks, which lie on the Eafl fhore of the entrance near the light-houfe head, are to be kept open with the head-lands (or bluff-heads) that rife to the Northward of the firfl fmall bay, or bending, obfervable on the Eafl fide of the entrance. When arrived to the North of the North head-land of the Eaflern harbour, the fhoal is pafl. In failing into the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, and approaching the village, it is neceffary to keep in clofe to the Eaflern fhore, in order to avoid a fpit, which runs from the head-land to the South Wefl of the town. Before I proceed to give a table of the refult of our aflrono-mical obfervations at this place, it may be proper to acquaint the Reader, that the time-keeper we had on board the Refolution, which was an exact copy of that invented by Mr. Har-rifon, and executed by Mr. Kendal, flopped on the 27th of April, a few days before we firfl came into Awatfka Bay. It had been always kept with the mofl fcrupulous care during the voyage, having never been trufled for a moment into any other hands than thofe of Captain Cook and mine. No accident could, therefore, have happened to it, to which wc could attribute its flopping j nor could it have arifen 1 from from the effects of intenfe cold, as the thermometer was ■ TT9> Oflobcr. very little below the freezing point. As foon as the difco- i-H— very was made, I confulted with Captain Clerk, what courfe it was befl to purfue j whether to let it remain as it was, intirely ufelefs to us, for the purpofe of fatisfying the curious at home, where it was fure of being examined by proper judges, or fufTer it to be infpected by a feaman on board, who had ferved a regular apprenticefhip to a watchmaker in London; and appeared fuffieiently knowing in the bufinefs, from his fuccefs in cleaning and repairing feveral watches fince we had been out. The advantages we had derived from its accuracy made us extremely unwilling to be deprived of its ufe during the remaining part of the voyage; and that object appeared to us of much greater importance than the fmall degree of probability, which we underflood was all that could be expected, of obtaining any material knowledge refpecting its mechanifm, by deferring the inflection of it. At the fame time, it .fhould be remembered, that the watch had already had a fuflicient trial, both in the former voyage, and during the three years we had now had it on board, to afcertain its utility. On thefe con-fiderations, we took the opportunity of the firft clear day, after our arrival in Awatfka Bay, of opening the watch, which was done in the Captain's cabin, and in our prcfence. The watchmaker found no part of the work broken ; but, not being able to fet it a-going, he proceeded to take off the cock and balance, and cleaned both the pivot-holes, which he found very foul, and the reft of the work rather dirty i he alfo took off the dial-plate; and, between two teeth of the wheel that carries the fecond-hand, found a piece of dirt which he imagined to be the principal caufe of its flopping. Having afterward put the work together, and oiled it oti7:ber n as *ParulSty as pofllble, the watch appeared to go free —r~-~> and well. Having received orders the next day to go to Bolcheretfk, the time-keeper was left in the care of Mr. Bayly to compare it with his watch and clock, in order to get its rate. On my return, I was told it had gone for fome days with tolerable regularity, lofmg only from fifteen to feventeen feconds a-day, when it flopped a fecond time. It was again opened, and the caufe of its flopping appeared to be owing to the man having put fome part of the work badly together when he firfl opened it. Being again adjufled, it was found to gain above a minute a day; and, in the attempt to alter the regulator and balance-fpring, he broke the latter. He afterward made a new fpring; but the watch now went fo irregularly, that we made no farther ufe of it. The poor fellow was not lefs chagrined than we were, at our bad fuccefs; which, however, I am convinced was more owing to the miferable tools he was obliged to work with, and the fliffnefs his hands had contracted from his ordinary-occupation, than to his want of fkill. For the fatisfaction of thofe who may wifh to have a general view of its rate of going, I have added the following table. The firft and fecond columns .contain the dates when, and the names of the places where, its rate was obferved. The third column contains the daily error of its rate, fo found from mean time. The fourth column has the longitude of each place, according to the Greenwich rate \ that is, calculated on a fuppofition that the time-keeper had not -varied its rate from the time it left Greenwich. But as wc had frequent opportunities of afecrtaining the variation of 2 its its daily error, or finding its new rate, the fifth column has the longitude according to its laft rate, calculated from the true longitude of the place laft departed from. The fixth is the true longitude of the place deduced from aft.ro-nomical obfervations made by ourfelvcs, and compared' with thofe made by others, whenever fuch could be obtained. The feventh column fhews the difference between the fourth column and the fixth in fpace ; and the eight the fame difference in time. The ninth fhews the number of months and days in which the error, thus determined, had been accumulating. The difference between the fifth and! fixth columns is found in the tenth, and fhews the error of the time-keeper, according to its rate laft found, in fpace; and the eleventh, the fame error in time. The twelfth contains-the time elapfed in failing from the place where the rate was laft taken, to the place whofe longitude is' laft determined. The thirteenth and fourteenth contain the ftate of the air at the time of each obfervation. As perfons, unaccuftomed to calculations of this fort, may find fome difficulty in comprehending the nature of the table, the two following inftances will more clearly explain it.. Thus, on the 34th October, 1776 (firft column), at the Cape of Good Hope (fecond column), we found the daily error in the rate of its going, to be 2",26 (third column). The longitude of that place calculated on a fuppofition, that the rate of the time-keeper had continued the fame from the time of our leaving Greenwich, that is, had a regular daily error of i">2ii is found to be 180 26' 30" Eaft (fourth column)., And as its rate at Greenwich is, in this inftance, its latcft rate, the longitude thus found is the fame (fifth column),. Th.o The true longitude of the place is i8° 23' 15" (fixth column). From whence it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to the Cape, the watch would have led us into an error only of 3' 15" (feventh column), or three miles one quarter; or had varied 13" of time (eighth column), in four months twenty-three days (ninth column), the period between our leaving Greenwich and our arrival at the Cape. As the Greenwich is the lateft error, the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth columns will be the fame with the feventh and ninth. But, on the 22dof February, 1777 (firfl column), at Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand (fecond column), the daily error of its rate was found to be 2",qi (third column). The longitude of this place, according to the Greenwich rate, is 1750 25' (fourth column). But having found, at the Cape, that it had altered its rate from a daily error of i',2i, to 2',26, the longitude corrected by this new rate is found to be 1740 54' 23" (fifth column). The true longitude of the place being 1746 23' 31" (fixth column); it appears, that, in our run from Greenwich to New Zealand, the error would have been only i° 1' 29" (feventh column), or fixty-one miles and a half, even if we had not had an opportunity of correcting its daily error ; or, in other words, that the watch had varied 4' 6" (eight column), in eight months eleven days (ninth column). But the longitude as given by its new rate, leaves an error of only 30' 54" (tenth column), near thirty-one miles, or, in time, a' 6 (eleventh column); which has been accumulating during our run from the Cape to New Zealand, or in three months, 280 (twelfth column). The thirteenth, and fourteenth columns require no explanation. TABLE TABLE of the Rate and Error of Mr. KendaPs Watch, on board the Refolution. TIME. 1776, June 11. Oft. 24 1777-Feb. 22. Mav 7, June 7, July I, Sept. 1. oa. i7, Nov. 7, 1778. April 16. Oft. 14. 1779* Feb. 2 May 1 PLACE. Greenwich -Cape of Good ) Hope ) Queen CharO lotce's Sound, > New Zealand j Anamooka - Anamooka - Tongataboo - Otaheite - Huaheine Ulietea Nootka - -Samganoodha Owhyhee SaintPeterand") Sai'.t Paul, / Kamtfchat- ( ka J ill. Error cf daily Rate. — J ,2 I — 2,26 — 2,9" + 0,52 0,54 1,78 - 7> ° - 8, 9 - 9, t T. k. ftopt iv. Longitude by Greenwich Rate. Longitude by new Rate. 9 1 11 o o oE, 18 26 30 «7S 25 0 186 13 26 186 8 28 185 48 50 211 41 26 2]0 14 52 209 42 54 235 3J 45 197 44 15 ZI4 7 35 i73 36 0 O f It o o oE 18 26 30 i74 54 25 vi. True Longitude, 186 186 184 53 210 39 208 50 08 zz 13 15 «2 43 24 22 233 56 o 193 12 35 203 37 22 i$9 20 o o 0 oE 18 23 15 »74 2J 3' 185 11 18 1S5 11 18 184 55 18 210 22 28 208 52 24 208 25 22 233 17 8 193 31 20 204 o o 158 43 16 vii. viii. Accumulated Error by Greenwich Rate, Space. + 0 3 IS 2 9 in Time. H. ' ix. Length of Time. Mo.Da o o 13,0 4 23 o 4 5>3 2 80 57 io|o 51 32 18 58 22 28 l? 32 2 15 27 4 I* 55 7 35 10 »4 52 44 8»5 48,6 34*1 29,8 10,1 09 i,8 o 16 51,6 0 4° 3°>3 34 14 ° 59 3°>9 37 18 9 4 11 22 12 25 13 21 15 27 17 17 18 10 24 2 30 15 x. xi. Error by new Rate, Space. + 031 + o 30 54 + i 4- 1 — o + 0 — o o 1 57 1 2 2 18 16 40 2 o o o Time. o o 13,0 xil Length of Time. Mo.Da 4 23 2 3,64 9 7 5.6 9'2 6,6 8,0 0,0 4- o 28 42 o 234 — o 18 450 1 15,0 — o 22 38 — o 36 44 o 1 30,5 18 3 0 24 2 6 1 18 o 21 5 20 6 13 3 27 o 2 16,93 4 xiii. Thermome-ter. Gr. I Leaii Height. 84 73 83 79 85 90 9°i 92 65 57 88 o'Sr From this view of the time-keeper it appears, that, for —near two years, it altered its rate very inconfiderably, and therefore, that its error, according to the Greenwich rate, if we had had no opportunities of correcting it, would have amounted only to 2^'. That afterward, at King George's Sound, or Nootka, it was found to have varied exceedingly; of courfe, the longitude, by its Greenwich rate, was becoming confiderably erroneous. About this time, it mould be remarked, the thermometer was varying from 650 to 41°. The greater! alteration we ever obferved in the watch was* during the three weeks we were cruizing to the North ; in which interval, it gave the longitude of the Eafl: Gape with a difference of twenty-eight miles. I have marked the longitude of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, as given by the time-keeper, notwithstanding it flopped a few days before we arrived there ; this I was enabled to do, from comparing the longitude it gave the day before it flopped, with , ( that given by Mr. Bayiey's watch, and allowing for the error of the latter. The ufe of fo accurate a meafure of time is fufficiently evident, from its furnifhing in itfelf the means of approximating to the longitude at fea, as may be feen in the above table. But, befides this, we were enabled, by the fame means, to give a degree of accuracy to the lunar obfervations, which they cannot otherwife pretend to; and, at the fame time, by reducing a number of thofe obfervations to one time, obtain refults approaching Hill nearer the truth. In furveying coafls, and afcertaining the true pofnions of capes and head-lands, it reaches the utmoft degree of practical exactnefs. On the other hand, it is to be obferved, that lunar obfervations, in their turn, are abfolutely neceffary, in order to reap the greater! pofhble advantages from the timekeeper 1 keeper j fince, by afcertaining the true longitude of places, they difcover the Sfror of its rate. The original obfervations, that were made in the courfe of this voyage, have been publifhed by order of the board of longitude, and to thofe I muft refer the reader, for his further information on this fubject. N. B. The obfervatories were placed on the Weft fide of the village of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Latitude deduced from meridian zenith diflances of the fun, and of five ftars to the South, and five to the North of the zenith - - -53° °' 3$" North* Longitude deduced from one hundred and forty-fix fets of lunar obfervations - - - i58° 43' 16" Eaft. Longitude by time-keeper, according to its Greenwich rate - - I730 36' G" Longitude by time-keeper, according to its rate found at Owhyhee - 1590 20' o" Variation of the compafs, by azimuths taken with three compaffes, made by Knight, Gregory, and Martin - 6° 18' 40" Eaft, Dip of the North pole of the magnetic needle, being a mean of the obfervations taken in 'June and September - - 630 5' o" It was high water, on the full and change of the moon, .at thirty-fix minutes paft four, and the greateft rife was T t % five five feet eight inches. The tides were very regular every twelve hours. On the coaft, near the bay, the flood came from the South, and the time of high-water was near two hours fooner than in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, CHAP, CHAP. VI. General Account of Kamtfchatka.—Geographical Defcription. — Rivers* — Soil. — Climate. — Volcanos. —Hot Springs.—Productions.—Vegetables.—Animals.—Birds'. —Fift. KAMTSCHATKA is the name of a peninfula fituated 1779-on the Eaflern coafl of Afia, running nearly North * -L- >■ and South, from 520 to 6i° North latitude ; the longitude of its Southern extremity being 156° 45' Eafl. The iflhmus* which joins it to the continent on the North, lies between the Gulf of Olutorfk and the Gulf of Penfhinfk. Its Southern extremity is Cape Lopatka* a word fignifying the blade-bone of a man, and is fo called from its fuppofed refemblance to it. The fhape of the whole peninfula is not unlike that of a flioe, widening from the toe (which we may fuppofe to be Gape Lopatka) toward the middle, and narrowing again toward the heel, the neck of land above-mentioned connecting it with the continent. Its greater breadth is from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of Kamtfchatka, and is computed to be two hundred and thirty-fix miles, from whence it narrows very gradually to-* ward each extremity. It is bounded on the North by the. country of the Ko-riacks; to the South and Eafl, by the North Pacific Ocean j and to the Wefl, by the fea of Okotfk. A chain of hrgh mountains ftretches the whole length of the country, from North. oaober North to South, dividing it nearly into two equal parts, from ^—%—-j whence a great number of rivers take their rife, and empty themfelves, on each fide, into the Pacific Ocean and the fea of Okotfk. There are three rivors of much greater magnitude than the refl; the Bolchoireka, or great river, fo called from boh choia, which fignifies great, and rekay a river; the river Kamtfchatka, and the Awatfka. The firfl empties itfelf into the'fea of Okotfk, and is navigable, for the Ruffian galliots, upward of five leagues from its mouth, or within nine miles of Bolcheretfk, a town fituated at the conflux of the Goltfoffka and the Biflraia, which here lofe themfelves in the Bolchoireka. The Biflraia itfelf is no inconfiderable river. It derives its fource from the fame mountain with the river Kamtfchatka, and, by taking a direct contrary courfe, affords the Kamtfchadales the means of tranfport-ing their goods by water, in fmall canoes, almofl acrofs the whole peninfula. The river Kamtfchatka, after maintaining a courfe of near three hundred miles from South to North, winds round to the Eaflward, in which direction it empties itfelf into the ocean, a little to the Southward of Kamtfchatkoi Nofs. Near the mouth of the Kamtfchatka, to the North Wefl, lies the great lake called Nerpitfch, from nerpi, a Kamtfchadale word fignifying a fcal, with which this lake abounds. About twenty miles up the river, reckoning from the mouth of the lake, is a fort called Nifhnei Kamtfchatfka oftrog, where the Ruffians have built an hofpital and barracks, and which, we were informed, is become the principal mart in this country. The river Awatfka arifes from the mountains fituated between the Bolchoireka and the Biflraia, and running, from £ North North Weft to South Eaft, a courfe of one hundred miles, falls into the bay of Awatfka. The Tigii is likewife a river of confiderable fize, rifing amidft fome very high mountains, which lie under the fame parallel with Kamtfchatkoi Nofs, and running, in an even courfe from South Eaft to North Weft, falls into the fea of Okotfk. All the other rivers of this peninfula, which are almofl infinite in number, are too fmall to deferve a particular enumeration. If I may judge of the foil, from what I faw of its vegetable productions, I fhould not hefitate in pronouncing it barren in the extreme. Neither in the neighbourhood of the bay, nor in the country I traverfed on my journey to Bolcheretfk, nor in any of our hunting expeditions, did I ever meet with the fmalleft fpot of ground that refembled what in England is called a good green turf; or that feemed as if it could be turned to any advantage, either in the way of pafturage, or other mode of cultivation. The face of the country in general was thinly covered with flunted trees, having a bottom of mofs, mixed with low weak heath. The whole bore a more finking refemblance to Newfoundland, than to any other part of the world I had ever feen. ; It muft however be obferved, that I faw at Paratounca three or four flacks of fweet and very fine looking hay j and Major Behm informed me, that many parts of the peninfula, particularly the banks of the river Kamtfchatka and the Biflraia, produce grafs of great height and flrength,. which they cut twice in the fummer; and that the hay is of a fucculent quality, and particularly well adapted to the fattening of cattle. Indeed it fhould appear, from the fize and fatnefs of the thirty-fix head that were fent down to us> from the Verchnei oftrog, and which, we were told, were bred bred and fattened in the neighbourhood, that they rnuft have had the advantage of both good paftures and meadows. For it is worth our notice, that the firft fupply we received, confiding of twenty, came to us juft at the clofe of the winter, and before the fnow was off the ground, and therefore probably had tafted nothing but hay for the feven preceding months. And this agrees with what is related by Krafcheni-nicoff, that there is no part of the country equal in fertility to that which borders on the iliver Kamtfchatka ; and that to the North and South it is much inferior both in point of jbil and climate. He relates, that repeated experiments have been made in the culture of oats, barley, and rye, in different quarters near this river, which have generally fuc-ceeded that, in particular, fome perfons belonging to the convent of Jakutfk, who had fettled in that part of the country, had fown barley there, which had yielded an extraordinary increafe; and he has no doubt but that wheat, in many parts, particularly near the fource of the Biflraia and Kamtfchatka, would grow-as well as in the generality of countries fituated in the fame latitude. Perhaps the fuperior fertility of the country here fpoken of may, in a great mea-furc, be accounted for, from its lying in that part of the peninfula, which is by much the wideft, and confequently fartheft removed from the fea, on each fide. The moiit chilling fogs, and drizzling weather, which prevail almoft perpetually along the coaft, muft neceffarily render the parts adjacent very unfit for all the purpofes of agriculture. It is natural to fuppofe, that the feverity of the climate muft be in due proportion to the general fterility of the foil, of which it is probably the caufe. The firft time wc faw this country was in the beginning of May, 1779, when the whole face of it was covered with fnow, from fix to eight feet deep. On On the 6th, we had fnow, with the wind from the North „ l779- Ottobcr. Eafl. On the 8th of May, at noon, the thermometer flood —.-' at 3?/; and, the fame day, fome of our men were fent on fhore to try to cut wood; but the fnow was flill fo deep on the ground, as to render all their attempts fruitlefs. Nor was it found practicable to proceed in this neceffary bufinefs, with all the eirons of a very flout party, till the 12th, at which time, the thaw began to advance gradually. The fides of the hills were now in fome places free from fnow; and, by the beginning of June, it was generally melted from the low lands. On the 15th of June, the day we failed out of the harbour, the thermometer had never rifen higher than 580, nor the barometer than 300 04'. The winds blew almofl invariably from the Eaflward during our flay, and the South Eaft was more prevalent than any other. On our return, the 24th of Augufl, the foliage of the trees, and all other forts of vegetation, feemed to be in the Utmofl flatc of perfection. For the remainder of this month, and through September, the weather was very changeable, but in no refpect fevcre. The winds, at the beginning of the month, were, for the mod part, Eafterly, after which they got round to the Weft. The greateft height of the thermometer was 650, the loweft 400. The barometer's greateft height 300; its loweft 290 3'. So that, upon the whole, during this month, an equal and moderate degree of temperature prevailed. But at the beginning of October, the tops of the hills were again covered with new-rallen fnow, the wind continuing Wefterly. In computing the feafons, the fpring ought certainly not to be taken into the account. From the middle of June, to the middle of September, may be properly faid toconftitute Vol. III. U u the «77* the fummer, October may be confidered as an autumnal Oftobcr. J u—%—t month, from thence, till the middle of June, it is perfect winter. It was toward the end of May that we made our journey, between Bolcheretfk and Awatfka, over the fnow in fledges. It is faid that the climate, in the country adjoining to the river Kamtfchatka, is not lefs ferene and temperate, than in many parts of Siberia that are under the fame latitude. This variation is probably owing to the fame caufes, to which the fuperior fertility of the foil in thofe parts has been before attributed. But it is not in the flerility of the ground alone that the Kamtfchadales feel the unfavourable temperature of their climate. The uncertainty of the fummer fea-fon fometimes prevents their laying up a fuflicient flock of dried fifh for their winter's provifion, and the moiflure of the air caufes worms to breed in them, which not unfre-quentjy deflroy the greateft part. I do not remember that we had either thunder or lightning during our flay, excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano; and, from the account of the inhabitants, they are very feldom troubled with ftorms of this kind, and never but in a flight degree. The general feverity of the winter, as well as the dreadful hurricanes of wind and fnow that feafon brings along with it, cannot be queflioned, from the fubterraneous habitations the natives are under a neeef-lity of retiring to, for warmth and fecurity. Major Behm told us, that the cold and inclemency of the winter of ijyg was fuch, that, for feveral weeks, all intercourfc between the inhabitants was intirely flopped, every one being afraid to ftir even from one houfe to another, for fear of being froft-bitten. This extraordinary rigour of climate, in fo low a la- a latitude, may be accounted for, from its being fituated to q£$L the Eaft of an immenfe uncultivated tract of country, and '-*~> from the prevalence of the Wefterly winds, blowing over fo extenfive and cold a continent. The extraordinary violence and impetuofity of the winds, is attributed to the fubterra-neous fires, the fulphureous exhalations, and the general volcanic difpofition of the country. This peninfula abounds in volcanos, of which only three have, for fome time paft, been fubject to eruptions. We have already mentioned that which is fituated in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. Befides this, there are others not lefs remarkable, according to the account given of them by Krafcheninicoff. The volcano of Tolbatchick is fituated on a neck of ground between the River of Kamtfchatka and Tolbatchick. The mountain, from the fummit of which the eruptions proceed, is of a confiderable height, and terminates in pointed, rocks. In the beginning of the year 1739, there iilued from it a whirlwind of flames, which reduced to allies the forefls of the neighbouring mountains. This was fuccecdcd by a cloud of fmoke, which fpread over, and darkened the whole 'Country, till it was diflipated by a iliowcr of cinders, that covered the ground to the diftance of thirty miles. Mr. Krafcheninicoff, who was at this time on a journey from Bolchoireka to the Kamtfchatka oftrog, at no great diftance from the mountain, relates, that the eruption was preceded by an alarming found in the woods, which he thought the forerunner of fome dreadful ftorm or hurricane, till three fhocks of an earthquake, at about a minute's interval each, convinced him of its real caufe; but that he was hindered from approaching nearer the mountain, by the cin- U u 2 ders ders that fell, and prevented him from proceeding on his journey. The third volcano is on the top of the mountain of Kamtfchatka, which is mentioned as by far the higher! in the peninfula. A thick fmoke never ceafes to afcend from its fummit, and it has frequent eruptions, of the mod violent and dreadful kind, fome of which were much talked of, and feemed to be frefh in the memories of the Kamtfchadales. The country is likewife faid to contain numerous fprings of hot water. The only one that I had an opportunity of feeing was at Natchikin oftrog, and hath been already defcribed. Krafcheninicoff makes mention of feveral others, and alfo of two very extraordinary pits or wells, at the bottom of which the water is feen to boil as in a caldron, with prodigious force and impetuofity; at the fame time a dreadful noife iffues out of them, and fo thick a vapour, that a man cannot be feen through it. Of the trees which fell under our notice, the principal are the birch, the poplar, the alder (with the bark of which they flain their leather), many fpecies of the willow, but all fmall; and two forts of dwarfifh pines or cedars *. One of thefe grows upon the coafl, creeping along the ground, and feldom exceeds two feet in height. It was of this fort we made our effence for beer, and found it excellent for the purpofe. The other grows on the mountains, to a greater height, and bears a fmall nut or apple. We were told by the old Tolon at St. Peter and St. Paul, that Beering, during * Krafcheninicoff fays, that the tree here fpoken of, is a dwarf cedar, for that there is not a pine iu the peninfula,. i the the time he lay in that harbour, firfl: taught them the ufe of the decoction of thefe pines, and that it had proved a mofl excellent remedy for the fcurvy; but, whether from the great fcarcity of fugar, or from what other caufe, we could not learn, we were forry to find, that it was no longer in ufe amongfl them. The birch was by far the mofl common tree we faw ; and of this we remarked three forts. Two of them fit for timber, and differing only in the texture and colour of the bark; the third of a d War fifh kind. This tree is applied to a great variety of ufes by the inhabitants. The liquor which, on tapping, it yields in great abundance, they drink without mixture, or any preparation, as wc had frequent opportunities of obferving, upon our journey to Bolcheretfk; and found it, ourfelvcs, pleafant and refrefhing, but fomewhat purgative. The bark they convert into veffels, for almofl all their domeflic and kitchen purpofes; and it is of the wood of this tree the fledges and canoes are alfo made *. The birch, and every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of the bay, were fmall and flunted; and they arc obliged to go many miles up into the country, for wood of a proper fize to work into canoes, for the principal timbers of their balagmu, and the like ufes. Befides the trees above mentioned, Krafcheninicoff relates, that the larch grows on the banks of the River Kamtfchatka, and of thofe that fall into it, but nowhere elfc; and that there are firs in the neighbourhood of the River Bere- * Krafcheninicoff fays, that the natives likewife convert the bark into a pleafant wholcfome food, by (tripping it off whilft it is young and green, and cutting it into long narrow ftripes, like vermicelli, drying it, and ftewing it afterward along with their caviar. zowa; zowa ; that there is likewife the fervice-tree (padus foliis annuls) ; and two fpecies of the white-thorn, one bearing a red, the other a black berry. Of the fhrub kind, as junipers, the mountain-afh, wild rofe-trees, and rafberry-bufhes, the country produces great abundance ; together with a variety of berries ; blue-berries of two forts, round and oval; partridge-berries; cran-berries; crow-berries, and black-berries. Thefe the natives gather at proper feafons, and prefcrve, by boiling them into a thick jam, without fugar. They make no inconfidcrable part of their winter provifions, and are ufed as fauce to their drieo\ and fait fifh; of which kind of food they are unqueftion-ably excellent correctives. They likewife cat them by themfelves, in puddings, and various other ways, and make decoctions of them for their ordinary liquor. We met with feveral wholefome vegetables in a wild flatc, and in great quantities, fuch as wild celery, angelica^ chervil, garlic, and onions. Upon fome few patches of ground in the vallies, we found excellent turnips, and turnip-radifhes. Their garden cultivation went no farther; yet from hence I am led to conclude, that many of the hardy forts of vegetables (fuch at leaf! as pufh their roots downward), like carrots, parfnips, and beet, and perhaps potatoes, would thrive tolerably well. Major Behm told me, that fome other forts of kitchen vegetables had been tried, but did not anfwer; that neither any of the cabbage or lettuce kind would ever head ; and that peafe and beans fhot up very vigorous flalks, flowered and podded, but the pods never filled. He likewife told me, that in the experiments made by himfelf at Bolcheretfk, with different forts of farinaceous grain, there generally came up a very high 4 and and drong blade, which eared, but that the ears never yielded flour. This fhort account of the vegetable productions reaches to fuch parts of the country only as fell within our notice. In the neighbourhood of the Kamtfchatka River, where (as has been obferved) both the foil and climate is by much the bell in the whole peninfula, garden culture is attended to, and probably with great fuccefs, as appears from our having received at the fame time, with the fecond drove of cattle from Verchnei, a prefent of cucumbers, of very large fine turnips, celery, and fome other garden-fluff, of which I do not recollect the kinds. There are two plants, which, from the great ufe made of them, merit a particular mention and defcription. The firft is called by the natives the farana ; and by botanifls, Lilium Kamtjkatienfe flare atro rubentc *. The flem is about the thick-nefs of that of the tulip, and grows to the height of five inches, is of a purple colour toward the bottom, and green higher up, and hath, growing from it, two tier of leaves of an oval figure, the lower confiding of three leaves, the up-permod of four, in the form of a crofs : from the top of the dalk grows a fingle dower, of an exceedingly dark red colour, in fhape refembling the dower of the narciffus, only much fmaller: from the centre of the dower, rifes a dyle of a triangular form, and obtufe at the end, which is furrounded by fix white Jlamina, whofe extremities are yellow. The root is of the bulbous kind, and rcfembles, in lhape, that of garlic, being much of the fame fize, but rounder, and having, like that, four or five cloves hanging together. The * Gmelin, p. 41. Steller enumerates five different fpecics of this plant. plant plant grows wild, and in confiderable abundance: the women are employed in collecting the roots at the beginning of Auguft, which arc afterward dried in the fun, and then laid up for ufe. On our fecond arrival, this harvefl was juft over, and had fallen much fhort of its ufual produce. It is a common obfervation, amongft the Kamtfchadr es, that the bounty of Providence never fails them, for that fuch feafons as are mofl hurtful to the farana, are always the molt favourable for fifhing ; and that, on the contrary, a bad liming month is always made up by the exuberance of the farana harvefl. It is ufed in cookery in various ways. When roaflcd in embers, it fupplies the place of bread, better than any thing the country affords. After being baked in an oven, and pounded, it becomes an excellent fubftitute for flour and meal of every fort, and in this form is mixed in all their foups, and mofl of their other dilhes. It is eueemed extremely nourifhing; has a pleafant bitter tarte, and may be eaten every day without cloying. We ufed to boil thefe roots, and eat them as potatoes, cither alone, or with our meat, and found them very wholefome and pleafant. It has been already mentioned, that this ufeful plant grows alfo at Oonalafhka, where the roots of it are ufed, and conflitute a confiderable part of their food, in like manner as in Kamtfchatka. The other plant alluded to is called the fweet graft \ the botanical defcription is Hcracleum Sibericumfoliis pinnatis, foHolis quints, intermediis fefftlibus, corollidls uniformibus. Hort. Upfal, 65. The time, I took particular notice of it, was in May, when it was about a foot and a half high, had much the appearance of fedgc, and was covered with a white down, or duff, which looked exceedingly like the hoar-frofl hanging upon it, it, and might be rubbed off: it tafled as fweet as fugar; but was hot and pungent. The ffalk is hollow, and confifts of three or four joints; from each of which arife large leaves, and, when at its full growth, is fix feet high. This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in the cookery of mofl of the Kamtfchadale diflics; but fmce the Ruffians got poffeffion of the country, it has been almofl intirely appropriated to the purpofe of diftillation. The manner in which it is gathered, prepared, and afterward diflilled, is as follows: having cut fuch flalks as have leaves growing on them, of a proper age (the principal flem, by the time the plant has attained its full growth, having become too dry for their purpofe), and fcraped off with fhells the downy fubflance on their furface, they are laid in Frriall heaps, till they begin to fweat and fmell. On growing dry again, they put them into facks made of matting; where, after remaining a few days, they arc gradually covered with a fweet faceharinc powder, which exudes from the hollow of the flalk. From thirty fix pounds of the plant, in this Rate, they obtain no more than a quarter of a pound of powder. The women, whofe province it is to collect, and prepare the materials, are obliged to defend their hands with gloves whilft they are fcraping the flalks, the rind they remove being of fo acrid a quality, as to bliftcr, and even ulcerate whatever it touches. The fpirit is drawn from the plant in this ftate by the following procefs. After fleeping bundles of it in hot water, they promote its fermentation in a fmall veiled, by the help of berries of thegimohfi *, or of the gohibitSa f, being careful * Loniccrapedunculls bijloris, fioribm infundib'dl formis, baud folltaria, oblonga, an-gulefa. GmeH Flor. Sib. | MyrtiUus grand; s cevr ulcus. Vol. III. X x to 1779- to clofe up well the mouth of the veffel, and to keep it in a October. » r w—1 ^ warm place whilft the fermentation is going on, which is generally fo violent as to occafion a confiderable noife, and to agitate the veffel in which it is contained. After drawing off this firft liquor, they pour on more hot water, and make a fecond in the fame manner. They then pour both liquor and herbs into a copper ftill, and draw off the fpirit after the ufual method. The liquor, thus obtained, is of the flrength of brandy; and is called by the natives raka. Two pood (feventy-two pounds) of the plant yield generally one vedro (twenty-five pints) of raka. Steller fays, that the fpirit diflilled from this plant, un-fcraped, is exceedingly prejudicial to the health, and produces the moft fudden and terrible nervous effects. Befides thefe, Krafcheninicoff mentions a variety of other plants, from whence the inhabitants prepare feveral decoctions; and which being mixed with their fifh, make palatable and wholefome ragouts. Such as the kipri*t with which is brewed a pleafant common beverage; and, by boiling this plant and the fweet herb together, in the proportion of one to five of the latter, and fermenting the liquor in the ordinary way, is obtained a flrong and excellent vinegar. The leaves of it are ufed inflead of tea ; and the pith is dried and mixed in many of their dimes; the morkevai-\> which is very like angelica; the kotkorica%, the root of which they eat indifferently, green or dried; the ikoum\\ the utchichlci\\, which is much eaten with fifli -with many others. * Epilobium. f Chcerophyllum feminibus levibus. X Tradefcantia frutlu molli edu/o. § B'tjlorta foil"is uveitis, oblongis, accuminat'is, \ Jacobea foliis cannabis. Steller. It It is faid, that the Kamtfchadales (before their acquaintance with fire-arms), poifoned their fpears and arrows with the juice of the root of the zgate*; and that wounds inflicted by them are equally deflructive to land and marine animals. The Tfchutfki are reported to ufe the fame drug for this purpofe at prefent. I fhall conclude this part of the natural hiflory of Kamt- . fchatka with an account, from the fame author, of three plants, which furnifh the materials of all their manufactures. The firfl is the triticum radice perenni fpiculU binis la-mtginofis f, which grows in abundance along the coafl. Of the flraw of this grafs they make a flrong fort of matting, which they ufe not only for their floors, but for facks, bed-cloths, curtains, and a variety of other domeflic purpofes. Of the fame materials they alfo make very neat little bags and bafkets, of different forms, and for various ufes. The plant called bolotnaia, which grows in the marines, and refembles cyperoides, is gathered in the autumn, and carded like wool, with a comb made of the bones of the fea-fwallow; with this, in lieu of linen and woollen clothes, they fwath their new-born infants, and ufe it for a covering next the fkin whilft they are young. It is alfo made into a kind of wadding, and ufed for the purpofe of giving additional warmth to various parts of their clothing. There remains ftill a vulgar and well-known plant, which, as it contributes more effectually to their fubfiftence than all the reft put together, muft not be paffed over in filence. This is the nettle ; which, as the country produces neither hemp nor flax, fupplies the materials, of which are * Anetnonoides et ranunculus. t Gmel. Sib. Tom. i. p. 119. Tab. XXV. X x 2 made 'I??; made their fifhine-nets ; and without which they could not October. 0 J J <■—K—■~/ poffibly fubfift. For this purpofe they cut it down in Auguit; and, after hanging it up in bundles in the fhade, under their balagans, the remainder of the fummer, treat it like hemp. They then fpin it into thread with their fingers, and twift it round a fpindle ; after which they twine feveral threads together, according to the different purpofes for which it may be dcfigned. Though there is little doubt but that many parts of this peninfula would admit of fuch cultivation as might contribute confiderably to the comfort of the inhabitants, yet its real riches mull always confill in the number of wild animals it produces ; and no labour can ever be turned to fo good account as what is employed upon their furrieries. The animals, therefore, which fupply thefe, come next to be confidered : and thefe are the common fox j the float, or ermine; the zibeUnc, or fable j the i/atz's, or a relic fox ; the varying hare ; the mountain rat, or earlefs marmot; the weafel; the glutton, or wolverene ; the argali, or wild fheep; rein-deer ; bears;. wolves ; dogs. The fox * is the mofl general object of the chace ; and they are found in great numbers, and of variety of colours. The mofl common is the fame in fpecies with the European, with this variation, that the colours are more bright and mining ; fome are of a dark chefnut, others are flriped with dark-coloured bars ; others have the belly black, and the reft of the body of a light chefnut. Some again are of a very dark brown ; fome black 5 others of a flone colour; and there are a few quite white; but thefe laft are very fcarce. Their fur is exceedingly thick and fine, and of a * Cam's vulpet, quality quality much fuperior to thofe either of Siberia or America. A variety of artifices are made ufe of by the hunters to catch this animal, which, in all climates, feems to preferve the fame character of craftinefs and cunning. Traps of different forts, fome calculated to fall upon them, others to catch them by the feet, others by the head, are amongft the moft common ; to which may be added, feveral ingenious contrivances for taking them in nets. Poifoned baits are likewife in ufe ; and the nux vomica is the drug principally employed for this purpofe. Before their knowledge of the Ruffians, by which they became acquainted with fire-arms, they alfo carried bows and arrows to the chace. But fince that period, almofl every Kamtfchadale is provided with a rifle-barrel gun; and, though far from being dextrous in the ufe of it, its fuperiority over the former inftruments he is ready to acknowledge. The fables* of Kamtfchatka are faid to be confiderably larger than thofe of Siberia, and their fur much thicker and brighter, though not of fo good a black as thofe in the neighbourhood of the Olekma and the Vitime^ a circumftance which depreciates their value much more than their fuperiority in other refpecls enhances it. The fables of the Tigil and Ouka are counted the befl in Kamtfchatka; and a pair of thefe fometimes fell for thirty roubles (five pounds fler-ling). The worft are thofe of the Southern extremity. The apparatus of the fable hunters confift of a rifle-barrel gun of an exceedingly fmall bore, a net, and a few bricks: with the firft they fhoot them when they fee them on the trees; the net is to furround the hollow trees in which, when pur- * Mujlela zibellina. \ Rivers emptying themfelves into the Lena, near its fource. fued, filed, they take refuge ; and the bricks are heated, and put into the cavities, in order to fmoke them out. I muft refer the Reader for an account of the ifatu *, or arctic fox, to Mr. Pennant's Arctic Zoology, as I never faw either the animal or the fkin, which I underftand they fet no value upon. The varying hare •f is alfo neglected on the fame account. They are in great abundance ; and, as is always the cafe with this fpccies, turn quite white during the winter. Our mooting parties faw feveral of this colour the beginning of May, but found them fo fhy, that they were not able to get within gun-mot. The mountain-rat, orearlefs marmot f, is a beautiful little animal, confiderably fmaller than a fquirrel, and, like it, feeds upon roots, berries, the cedar-apple, &c. which it eats fitting upon its hind-legs, and holding them up to its mouth with the paws. Its fkin is much valued by the Kamtfchadales, is both warm and light, and of a bright fhining colour, forming, like the plumage of fome birds, various colours when viewed in different lights. The float, or ermine §, is here held in no eftimation, and, confequently, never engages the attention of the hunters, becaufe, as I have heard, its fur is of an ordinary kind. I faw many of thefe little animals running about; and we bought feveral of their fkins, which were of a bad white, and of a dirty yellow toward the belly. The common weafel || is alfo neglected, and for the fame reafon. On the contrary, the fkin of the glutton, or wolverene If, is here in the higheft repute; infomuch, that a Kamtfcha- * Cants cafopus. § Mujitla erminia. f Lfpus timidus. \\ Mujlela nivalis. t Mus citellus. U Urfus /ufcus. dale dale looks upon himfelf as mofl richly attired, when a fmall quantity of this fur is feen upon him. The women adorn their hair with its pats, which are white, and con-fidered as an extraordinary piece of finery; and they have a fuperflitious opinion, that the angels are clad with the fkins of thofe animals. It is faid, that this creature is eafily tamed, and taught a number of pleafant tricks*. Having already had occafion to fpeak as fully as my own knowledge enables me of the bears, and the method of killing them, I fhall only here obferve, that all thofe I faw were of a dun brown colour; that they are generally feen in companies of four or five together; that the time they are mofl abroad is during the feafon that the fifh (which is their principal food) are pufhing up from the fea into the rivers, and that they are feldom vifible in the winter months f. Their fkins are exceedingly ufeful. They make both excellent warm matraffes, and coverings for their beds j comfortable bonnets and gloves, and good collars for the dogs harnefs. Their flefh, and particularly the fat, is confidered as great delicacies. The wolves are only feen in the winter; at which feafon they prowl about, as I was told, in large companies, in fearch of prey. * Krafcheninicoff relates, that this fmall animal frequently deftroys deer, and the wild mountain-flieep, in the following way: they fcatter at the bottom of trees bark and mofs, which thofe animals are fond of; and whilft they are picking it up, drop fuddenly upon them, and fattening behind the head, fuck out their eyes. t The Koriacks make ufe of a very fimple method of catching bears. They fuf-pend, between the forks of a tree, a running noofe, within which they faften a bait, which the animal, endeavouring to pull away, is caught fometimes by the neck,, and fometimes by the paw. 6 There There are rein-deer, both wild and tame, in feveral parts of the peninfula, but none in the neighbourhood of Awatfka. It is fomewhat fingular, that this nation mould never have ufed the rein-deer for the purpofes of carriage, in the fame manner as their neighbours, both to the North and the Eaflward. Their dogs, indeed, feem fully fuflicient for all the demands of the natives in their prefent flate ; and the breed of Ruffian horfes will, probably, increafe with the future neceflitics of the country. But when it is recollected, that the ufe of dogs, in a great meafure, precludes them from the advantage of bringing up any other domeflic animals, it will appear the more extraordinary, that they fhould not have adopted the fervices of an animal fo much more gentle as well as powerful. The argali, or wild mountain-fheep *, an animal, I believe, unknown in Europe (except in Corfica and Sardinia), is here in great plenty. Its fkin is like the deer's, but in gait and general appearance, it partakes more of the goat. It has two large twilled horns, fometimes weighing, when at full growth, from twenty-five to thirty pounds, which, in running, it refls upon its back. Thefe creatures are exceedingly nimble and fwift, haunt only the mofl craggy and mountainous parts, and make their way among the fleepefl rocks with an agility that is aflonifhing. The natives work their horns into fpoons, and fmall cups and platters ; and have frequently one of a fmaller fize hanging to a belt, which ferves them to drink out of in their hunting expeditions. This animal is gregarious. I frequently tailed the flefh of them, and thought it had a very fweet and delicate flavour j but never had an opportunity of feeing one * Capra amnion. 3 alive. alive. I muft, therefore, refer the Reader for a particular *779- October. defcription of this beautiful animal (for fuch it is faid c—.v—u to be), to the Memoirs of the Academy of Peterfburg, Tom. iv. tab. xiii. I have already obferved, that the dogs of this country are, in fhape and mien, exceedingly. like the Pomeranian, with this difference, that they are a great deal larger, and the hair fomewhat coarfcr. They are of a variety of colours; but the moft general is a light dun, or dirty cream-colour. Toward the end of May, they are all turned loofe, and left to provide for themfelves through the fummer, being fure to return to their refpective homes wbed the fnow begins to fall. Their food, in the winter, confifts intirely of the head, entrails, and back bones of falmon ; which are put afidc, and dried for that purpofe; and with this diet they are fed but fparingly. The number of dogs muft needs be very great, fince five arc yoked to a fledge, and a fledge carries but one perfon; fo that, on our journey to Bolcheretfk, we required no fewer than an hundred and thirty-nine, at the two ftages of Karatchin and Natchikin. It is alfo to be remarked, that they never make ufe of bitches for the draft, nor dogs, but thofe that are cut. The whelps are trained to this bufincfs, by being tied to flakes with light leathern thongs, which are made to ftretch, and having their victuals placed at a proper diftance out of their reach ; fo that, by conflantly pulling and labouring, in order to come at their food, they acquire both the flrength of limbs, and the habit of drawing, that are neceffary for their future deftination. The coafl and bays of this country are frequented by almoft every kind of Northern fea-fowl; and amongft the Vol. III. Y y refl- *779- reft are the fea-eagles, but not, as at Oonalafhka, in great October- . v—j numbers. The rivers inland (if I may judge from what I faw in our journey to Bolcheretfk), are ftored with numerous flocks of wild-ducks of various fpecies ; one kind of which, in particular, has a moft beautiful plumage, and is called, by the natives, a-an-gitche, a word intended to exprefs its cry, which is not lefs lingular than agreeable, confifting of three diftincl: notes, rifmg, at equal intervals above each other *. There is another fpecies called the mountain-duck f, which, Steller fays, is peculiar to Kamtfchatka. The drake is covered with plumage of extraordinary beauty. Befides thefe, we obferved a variety of other water-fowl, which, from their fize, feemed to be of the wild-goofe kind. In the woods through which we paffed, were feen feveral eagles of a prodigious fize ; but of what fpecies they were, I cannot pretend to determine. Thefe are faid to be of three different forts; the black eagle, with a white head, tail, and legs X > of which the eaglets are as white as fnow ; the white eagle, fo called, though, in fact:, it is of a light grey; and the lead, or flone coloured eagle §, which is the moft common ; and probably thofe I faw were of this fort. Of the hawk, falcon, and buftard-kind, there are great numbers. * Mr. Steller has made the following fcale of its cry : Hv--1 —~~|—;~ --1 ---- --- -"3 a - an - gitche a - an - gitchc For a further account of this bird, I muft refer the Reader to KrafchcninicofT, Vol. ii. part 4. } Anas picla, caplte pulchre fafciatQ. Steller. I Fako Icucocephalus. § Vultur albiulk. This This country likewife affords woodcocks, fnipes, and two T?79« October. . forts of groufc, or moor-game. Swans are alfo faid to be v.—^—t in great plenty; and, in their entertainments, generally to make a part of the rcpafl, though I do not remember to have feen one on any occafion. The vail abundance of wild-fowl, with which the country is flored, was manifefl from the numerous prefents we received from the Tivm of St. Peter and St. Paul; and which fometimes confuted of twenty brace. We met with no amphibious fea-animals on the coafl, except fcals, with which the bay of Awatfka fwarmed ; as they were, at this time, in purfuit of the falmon that were collecting in fhoals, and ready to afcend the rivers. Some of them are faid to purfue the fifh. into the frefli water, and to be found in mofl of the lakes which communicate with the fea. The fca-otters * are exactly the fame with thofe we met with at Nootka Sound, which have been already fully defcribed, and where they are in great plenty. They arc alfo faid to have been formerly in equal abundance here; but, fince the Ruffians have opened a trade for their fkins to China, where they arc fold at a price much beyond that of any other kind of fur, they have been hunted almofl intirely out of the country. Amongfl the Kurile iflands they are flill caught, though in no great numbers ; but are of a fu-perior quality to thofe of Kamtfchatka, or the American coafl. We are informed, that, on Mednoi and Beering's Ifland, fcarce a fea-ottcr is now to be found; though it appears * Mujicla lutris. Y y 2 from *779- from Muller*, that, in his time, they were exceedingly October. • 1 ° J -—plentiful. The Ruffian voyagers make mention of a great variety of amphibious fea-animals, which are faid to frequent thefe coafls: the reafon why wc faw no other kinds might be, that this was the feafon of their migration. Not having it in my power to treat thefe articles more fully, I conclude them with the lefs regret, fince the ingenious Mr. Pennant, has a work, almolt ready for publication, intitlcd, Arctic Zoology; in which the learned will receive full information concerning the animals of this peninfula. This Gentleman has very obligingly communicated to mc his Catalogue of Arctic Animals, with references to his Work, and pcrmifllon to infert it. It will be found at the end of this Chapter ; and I feci myfelf extremely happy in laying it before the Reader, and thereby pic-fenting him with what could have been furnifhed from no other quarter, one intire view of Kamtfchadale zoology. Fifh may be confidcred as the (laple article of food with which Providence hath fupplied the inhabitants of this peninfula ; who, in general, mull never expect to draw any confiderable part of their fuftenance either from grain or cattle. It is true, the foil, as has been remarked, affords fome good and nourifhing roots, and every part of the country abounds in berries; but though thefe alone would be infulficicnt for the fupport of the people, yet, at the fame time, they are neceffary correctives of the putrefcent quality of their dried fifh. In fhort, fifh may, with much greater juftice, be here called the ft a IF of life, than bread * Englifli Translation, p. 59. is is in other countries; fince it appears, that neither the in- cf|o!ir. habitants, nor the only domeflic animal they have, the dog, *-'—- could exifl without it. Whales are frequently feen, both in the fea of Okotfk, and on the fide of the Eaflern ocean, and, when caught, are turned to a variety of ufes. Of the fkin they make the foles of their fhoes, and flraps and thongs for various other purpofes. The flefh they cat, and the fat is carefully flored, both for kitchen ufe, and for their lamps The whiikers are found to be the bell materials for fewing together the feams of their canoes; they likewife make nets of them for the larger kind of fifh; and with the under jaw-bones their fledges are fhod. They likewife work the bones into knives; and formerly the chains with which their dogs are tied, were made of that material, though at prefent iron ones arc generally ufed. The interlines they clean, then blow and dry like bladders, and it is in thefe their oil and grcafe is flored ; and of the nerves and veins, which are both flrong, and flip readily, they make excellent {hares; fo that there is no part of the whale which here does not find its ufe. From the middle of May, till our departure on the 24th of June, wc caught great quantities of excellent flat fifh, trout, and herrings. Upward of three hundred of the former, befides a number of fea-trout, were dragged out at one hawl of the feinc, the 15th of May. Thefe flat fifh are firm, and of a good flavour, ftudded upon the back with round prickly knobs, like turbot, and flreaked with dark brown lines* running from the head toward the tail. About the end of May the firft herring fea fon begins. They approach in great great fhoals, but do not remain long on the coafl:. They had intirely left the bay before we failed out of it the firft time, but were beginning to revifit it again in October. It has been already mentioned, that the herrings were remarkably fine and large, and that we filled a great part of our empty cafks with them. The beginning of June, large quantities of excellent cod were taken ; a part of which were likewife falted. Wc caught too, at different times, numbers of fmall fifh, much refembling a fmelt, and once drew out a wolf-fifh. Notwitliflanding this abundance of flat-fifh, cod, and herring, it is on the falmon fifhery alone that the Kamtfchadales depend for their winter provifions. Of thefe, it is faid, by naturalifts, there are to-be found, on this coaft, all the different fpecies that are known to exift, and which the natives formerly characterized by the different months in which they afcend the rivets. They fay too, that though the flioals of different forts are feen to mount the rivers at the fame time, yet they never mix with each other that they always return to the fame river in which they were bred, but not till the third fummer j that neither the male nor female live to regain the fea j that certain fpecies frequent certain rivers, and are never found in others, though they empty themfelves nearly at the fame place. The firfl flioals of falmon begin to enter the mouth of the Awatfka about the middle of May ; and this kind, which is called by the Kamtfchadales Tchavitft, is the largeft and mofl valued. Their length is generally about three feet and a half: they are very deep in proportion, and their average ■weight is from thirty to forty pounds. The tail is notforked, 6 but but ftraight. The back is of a dark blue, fpotted with black : *779-in other refpects they are much like our common falmon. u. -y —» They afcend the river with extraordinary velocity, infomuch that the water is fenfibly agitated by their motion; and the Kamtfchadales, who are always on the watch for them about the time they are expected, judge of their approach by this circumftance, and immediately let drop their nets before them. We were prefented with one of the firft that was caught, and given to underftand that it was the greateft compliment that could be paid us. Krafcheninicoff relates, that formerly the Kamtfchadales made a point of eating the firft fifh they took, with great rejoicings, and a variety of fuperftitious ceremonies; and that after the Pvuffians became their maftcrs, it was for a long time a conflant fub-jeel: of quarrel between them, to whom the firft fhould belong. The fcafon for fifhing, for this fpecies, lafts from the middle of May till the end of June. The other fort is of a fmaller kind, weighing only from eight to fixtcen pounds; they are known by the general name of the red fifh, and begin to collect in the bays, and at the mouths of the rivers, the beginning of June; from which time, till the end of September, they are caught in great quantities both upon the Eaflern and Weflern coaft, where any frefh water falls into the fea, and likewife all along the courfe of the rivers, to their very fource. The manner in which they draw their nets within the bay of Awatfka, is as follows: They tie one end of the net to a large flone at the water's edge, they then pufii off in a canoe about twenty yards in a right line, dropping their net as they advance, after which they turn and run out the remainder of the net in aline parallel to the fhore ; in this pofition o^okr P0^1011 tneY wait, concealing themfelves very carefully in «-' the boat, and keeping a fharp look-out for the fifh, which always direct their courfe clofe in with the more, and whole approach is announced by a rippling in the water, till they find that the fhoal has advanced beyond the boat, when they moot the canoe to fhore in a direct line, and never fail of inclofing their prey. Seldom more than two men are employed to a net, who hawl with facility, in this manner, fetries larger than ours, to which we appoint a dozen. We at firfl met with very poor fuccefs in our own method of bawling; but after the Kamtfchadales had very kindly put us in the way, wc were not lefs fuccefsful than themfelves. In the rivers, they fhoot one net acrofs, and hawl another down the flream to it. The lakes that have a communication with the fea, which was the cafe of all thofe that I law, abound with fifh, that have very much the refemblance of fmall falmon, and arc from four to fix pounds weight. I could not underiland that the inhabitants thought it worth their while tofiQi for them. As thefe lakes are not deep, they become an cafy prey to the bears and dogs during the fummer; and if I might judge from the quantity of bones to be feen upon the banks, they devour vaft numbers of them. rlhe inhabitants, for the mofl part, dry their falmon, and fait very little of it. Each fifh is cut into three pieces, the belly-piece being firfl taken off, and afterward a flice along each fide the back-bone. The former of thefe are dried and fmoked, and eflcemed the fincfl part of the fifh, and fold, when we were at St. Peter's and St. Paul's, at the rate of one hundred for a rouble. The latter are dried in the air, air, and either eaten whole as bread, or reduced to powder, 0^707b9e*r of which they make parte and cakes, that are not unplea- «-1— fant to the tafte. The head, tail, and bones, are hung up and dried for winter provifion for the dogs. Lift of the Animals foitnd in Kamtfchatka^ communicated by Mr. Pennant*, Argali, wild fheep, Arc!. Zool. 7 _ vol. i. p. 12.5 ^ra ammon>Lin- syft- 97- > Ibex, or wild goat 16. Capra ibex 90. ## Rcia 22. Cervus tarandus 93- ## Wolf 38. Cams lupus ## Dog 40. *# Arctic fox 42. Cams lagopus ~ 59- #* European fox 45- Cants vulpes 59- a. black 46. b. crofs ib. ## Polar bear, in the Frozen fea 7 JJrfus arelos only 55) ** Bear 57- JJrfus arclos ## Wolverene 66. JJrfus lufcus 71- *# Common weafel 75- Mufela nivalis 69. ** Stoat, or ermine ibid, Mitfcla crminea 68. ## Sable -r 79- Mufela Awatfka 422. XVII. Marili titmoufe 427. Farus palujlris 34*- XVILI. Chimney fwallow 429. Hirundo rujlica 343. Z z 2 Martin Martin - 430, Hirundo urbica - 344* Sand martin - 430. Hirundo riparia - 344. XIX. European goatfucker 437. Caprimulgus Etiropeus 346. Water Fowl. Cloven-footed Water Fowl. Great tern No. 448. Sterna hirundo Kamtfchatkan P. 525. A. Black-headed gull No. 455. Larus ridibundus 225. Kittiwake gull No. 456. Larus rlffa 224, Ivory gull No. 457. Arctic gull No. 459. Tarrock P. s^^.Y). Larus tridaclylus 224. Red-legged p- 533- E. Fulmar petrel No. 464. Proccllaria glaciahs 213. Stormy petrel No. 464, Proccllaria pclagica 212, Kurile petrel P. 536. A. Blue petrel*. Preface Goofander merganfer No. 465, Mergus merganfer - 208. Smew No. 468. NLergus albcllus 209. Whiffling fwan No. 469. Anas Cygnus ferns 194. A. Great goofe P. 570. Chinefe goofe P. S7*< Anas cygnoides 194. B. Snow goofe No. 477. Brent goofe No. 478. Anas hcrnicla 198. Eider duck No. 480. Anas mollijfma 198. Black duck No. 483. Anas fpeclab'dis *95- Velvet duck No. 481. Anas fufca 196. Shoveler No. 485. Anas clypeata 200. * I never £iw this, but it is mentioned by Mr. Ellis. I had omitted it in my zoologic part. Golden Golden eye No. 486. Anas clangula 201. Harlequin No. 490. Anas hijlrionica 204. Mallard No. 494. Anas bofchas - 205. Weftern No. 497. Pintail No. 500. Anas acuta 202. Longtailed No. 501. Anas glactalis 203. Mouillon P. 573. F. Anas glaucion 2or. Shieldrake P. $j2.D.Anas tadorna Tufted P. $y$,G.Anas fullgula 207, Falcated P. 574.L Garganey - P. sjG.O.Anas qucrquedula - 263, Teal P. 577. P. Anas crecia 204. Corvorant No. 509. Pckcanus carvo 216. Violet Corvorant - P. 584.B. Red-faced corvorant P. 384.C. Crane P. 45 3. A. Ardca\ grus 334- Curlew P. ^Gi.A.Scolopax arquata 242. Whimbrcl P. 462. B. Scolopax phaopus 243« Common fandpipcr No. 388. Triuga by pole a cos 250. Gambet No. 394. Tr'inga gambetta - 248. Golden plover No. 399. Cbaradrius pluvialis 254. Pied oyfter-catcher No. Hcematopus ojlralcgus 257- With pinnated Feet. Plain phalarope With webbed Feet. Wandering albatrofs No. 423. Diomedca exulans 214. Razor-bill auk. No. 425. Ale a tor da 210. Puflin No. 427. Alca arclica 211. Antient No. 430. Pygmy No. 431. Tufted Tufted - - No. 432. Parroquet - No. 433.. Grefled - - No. 434.. Dufky - - No. 435. Eoolifh guillemot - No. 436. Black guillemot - No. 437. Marbled guillemot No. 43S. Imber diver - No. 440. Speckled diver - No. 441. Red-throated diver No. 443. Colymhus troillc - 220. Colymbus grylle - . 220. Colymhus immcr - 22 2. Colymhus ftptentrionalls 22Q, C II A P. CHAP. VII. Drefs.—Of the Kurile Iflands.—The Koreki.—The FI E prefent inhabitants of Kamtfchatka are of three 1 forts. The natives, or Kamtfchadales. The Ruffians and CofTacks: and a mixture of thefe two by marriage. Mr. Steller, who refided fome time in this country, and feems to have taken great pains to gain information on this fubjecf, is perfuaded, that the true Kamtfchadales are a people of great antiquity, and have for many ages inhabited this peninfula; and that they are originally defended from the Mungalians, and not cither from the Ton-gufian Tartars, as fome, or the Japanefe, as others have imagined. The principal arguments, by which he fupports thefe opinions, are : That there cxills not among them the trace of a tradition of their having migrated from any other country : that they believe themfelves to have been created and and placed in this very fpot by their god Koutkou: that they are the moft favoured of his creatures; the moft fortunate and happy of beings; and that their country is fuperior to all others, affording means of gratification far beyond what are any where elfe to be met with: that they have a perfect knowledge of all the plants of the country, their virtues and ufes, which could not be acquired in a fhort time: that their inflruments and houfehold utenfils differ greatly from thofe of any other nation, and are made with an extraordinary degree of neatnefs and dexterity, which implies that they are both of their own invention, and have been long in ariving at fo great perfection: that antecedently to the arrival of the Ruffians and Coffacks among them, they had not the fmallcft knowledge of any people, except the Koreki: that it is but of late they had an intercourfc with the Kuriles, and flill later (and happened by means of a veffel being fhipwrecked on their coafl) that they knew any thing of the Japanefe; and, laflly, that the country was very populous, at the time the Ruffians firfl got footing in it. The reafons he alleges for fuppofing them to be originally defcended from the Mungalians are: That many words in their language have terminations fimilar to thofe of the Mungalian Chinefe, fuch as, o?jg, mg, oing, tching, tcba, tchoing, kfi) kfitng, &c.; and moreover, that the fame principle of inflexion or derivation obtains in both languages: that they arc in general undcr-fizcd, as are the Mungalians : that their complexions, like theirs, is fwarthy: that they have black hair, little beard, the face broad, the nofc fhort and flat, the eyes fmall and funk, the eye-brows thin, the belly pendant, the legs fmall; all which are peculiarities that are to 7 be be found among the Mungalians. From the whole of which he draws this conclufion, that they fled for fafcty to this peninfula, from the rapid advances of the Eaflern conquerors ; as the Laplanders, the Samoides, &c. were compelled to retreat to the extremities of the North, by the Europeans. The Ruffians having extended their conquefls, and efta-blifhed polls and colonies along that immenfe extent of coafl of the frozen fea, from the Jenefei to the Anadir, appointed commiffaries for the purpofe of exploring and fub-jecting the countries flill farther Eaflward. They foon became acquainted with the wandering Koriacs inhabiting the North and North Eafl coaft of the fea of Okotfk, and without difficulty made them tributary. Thefe being the immediate neighbours of the Kamtfchadales, and likewife in the habits of bartering with them, a knowledge of Kamtfchatka followed of courfe. The honour of the firfl difcovery is given to Feodot Alcxeieff, a merchant, who is faid to have failed from the river Kovyma, round the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, in company with feven other veffels, about the year 1648. The tradition goes, that being feparated from the reft by a florm, near the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs, he was driven upon the coafl of Kamtfchatka, where he wintered ; and the fummer following coaflcd round the promontory of Lopatka, into the fea of Okotfk, and entered the mouth of the Tigil; but that he and his companions were cut off by the Koriacs, in endeavouring to pafs from thence by land to the Anadirfk. This, in part, is corroborated by the accounts of Simeon DefhnefF, who commanded one of the feven yeffels, Vol. III. 3 A and and was thrown on more at the mouth of the Anadir. Be this as it may, fince thefe difcoverers, if fuch they were, did not live to make any report of what they had done, Volodi-mir Atlaffoff, a CofTack, ftands for the firfl acknowledged difcovcrer of Kamtfchatka *. This perfon was fent, in the year 1697, from the fort Ja-kutfk to the Anadirfk, in the quality of commiffary, with inftruclions to call in the affiflance of the Koriacs, with a view to the difcovery of countries beyond theirs, and to the fubjecling them to a tribute. In 1699, he penetrated, with about fixty Ruffian foldiers, and the fame number of Cof-facks, into the heart of the peninfula, gained the figil, and from thence levying a tribute in furs, in his progrefs croflld over to the River Kamtfchatka, on which he built the higher Kamtfchatka oftrog> called Verchnei, where he left a garrifon of fixteen Coffacks, and returned to Jakutfk in 17 o, with an immenfe quantity of rare and valuable tributary furs. Thefe he had the good fenfe and policy to accompany to Mofcow, and, in recompence for his fervices, was appointed Commander of the fort of Jakutfk, with farther orders to repair again to Kamtfchatka, having firfl drawn from the garrifon at Tobolfk a reinforcement of a hundred Coffacks, with ammunition, and whatever elfe could give efficacy to the completion and fettlement of his late difcoveries. Advancing with this force toward the Anadirfk, he fell in with a bark on the River f Tungufka, laden with * It is proper to remark, that Atlaflbff fent an advanced party, under the command of a fubaltern, called Lucas MolofkofF, who certainly penetrated into Kamtfchatka, and returned with an account of his fuccefs, before AtlaflbfF fet out, and is therefore not unjuftly mentioned as the Difcoverer of Kamtfchatka. f This River empties itfelf into the Jenefei. Chinefe Chinefe merchandize, which he pillaged; and in confequence of a remonftrance from the fulTerers to the Ruffian court, he was feized upon at Jakutfk, and thrown into prifon. In the mean time, Potop Serioukoff, who had been left by Atlaffoff, kept peaceable poffcflion of the garrifon of Verchnei; and though he had not a fuflicient force to compel the payment of a tribute from the natives, yet by his management, and conciliating difpofition, he continued to carry on an advantageous traffic with them as a merchant. On his return to the Anadirfk, with the general good-will of the natives of Kamtfchatka, himfelf and party were attacked by the Koriacs, and unfortunately all cut off. This happened about 1703 ; and feveral other fucceflive commiffaries were fent into Kamtfchatka, with various fuccefs, during the difgrace and trial of Atlaffoff. In 1706, Atlaffoff was reinflated in his command, and appointed to conduct a fecond expedition into Kamtfchatka, with inductions to gain upon the natives by all peaceable means, but on no pretence to have recourfe to force and compulfion: but, inflead of attending to his orders, he not only, by repeated aets of cruelty and injuflice, made the natives exceedingly hoflile and averfe to their new governors, but likewife fo far alienated the affections of his own people, that it ended in a mutiny of the Coffacks, and their demand of another commander. The Coffacks having carried their point, in difplacing Atlaffoff, feized upon his effects; and, after once tailing the fweets of plunder, and of living without difcipline or controul, in vain did his fuc-ceffors attempt to reduce them to military difcipline and fubjection. Three fucceffive commanders were affaffinated 3 A 2 in *779- in their turn ; and the Coffacks, being thus in open rebel- —y-' Hon to the Ruffian government, and with arms in their hands, were let loofe upon the natives. The hiflory of this country from that period, till the grand revolt of the Kamtfchadales in 1731, prefents one unvaried detail of maf-facres, revolts, and favage and fanguinary rencounters between fmall parties, from one end of the peninfula to the other. What led to this revolt, was the difcovery of a paffage from Okotfk to the Bolchoireka, which was firft made by Cofmo Sokoloff, in the year 1715. Hitherto the Ruffians had no entrance into the country, but on the fide of Anadirfk ; fo that the natives had frequent opportunities of both plundering the tribute, as it was carried by fo long a journey out of the peninfula, and haraffing the troops in their march into it. But by the difcovery of this communication, there exifled a fafe and fpeedy means, as well of exporting the tribute, as of importing troops and military flores into the very heart of the country; which the natives eafily faw gave the Ruffians fo great an advantage, as muft foon confirm their dominion, and therefore determined them to make one grand and immediate ftruggle for their liberty. The moment refolved upon, for carrying their de-figns into execution, was when Beering fhould have fet fail, who was at this time on the coafl with a fmall fquadron, and had difpatched all the troops that could well be fpared from the country, to join Powloutfki, in an expedition againfl the Tfchutfki. The opportunity was well chofen; and it is altogether furprizing, that this confpiracy, which was fo general, that every native in the peninfula is faid to have had his mare in it, was at the fame time conducted with with fuch fccrecy, that the Ruffians had not the fmalleft fufpicion that any thing hoflile to their interefis was in agitation. Their other meafures were equally well taken. They had a flrong body in readinefs to cut off all communication with the fort Anadirfk; and the Eaflern coafl was likewife lined with detached parties, with a view of feizing on any Ruffians that might by accident arrive from Okotfk. Things were in this flare, when the commiffary Cheek-haerdin marched from Verchnei with his tribute, efcorted by the troops of the fort, for the mouth of the Kamtfchatka River, where a veffel was lying to convey them to the Anadir. Befides waiting for the departure of Beering, the revolt was to be fufpended till this veffel fhould be out at fea, notice of which was to be given to the different Chiefs. Accordingly, the moment fhe was out of light, they began to maffacre every Ruffian and Coffack that came in their way, and to fet fire to their houfes. A large body afcended the River Kamtfchatka, made themfelves mailers of the fort and oftrog the commiffary had juft quitted, put to death all that were in it, and, except the church and the fort, reduced the whole to allies. Here it was that they firfl learned that the Ruffian veffel, in which the commiffary had embarked, was flill on the coafl, which determined them to defend themfelves in the fort. The wind fortunately foon brought the veffel back to the harbour ; for had fhe proceeded in her voyage, nothing probably could have prevented the utter extirpation of the Ruffians. The Coffacks finding, on their landing, that their houfes had been burnt to the ground, and their wives and children either maflacred or carried off prifbners, were enraged to madnefs. They marched directly to the fort, which they attacked with great fury, and the natives as refolutely defended, till at -\ length length the powder-magazine taking fire, the fort was blown up, together with moll of thofe that were in it. Various rencounters fucceedcd to this event, in which much blood was fpilled on both fides: At length, two of the principal leaders being flain, and the third (after difpatching his wife and children, to prevent their falling into the enemy's hand) having put an end to himfelf, peace was eftabliihed. From that period every thing went on very peaceably, till the year 1740, when a few Ruffians loft their lives in a tumult, which was attended wjth no farther confequences; and, except the infurrecfion at Bolcheretfk in 1770 (which hath been already noticed), there has been no difturbance fince. Though the quelling the rebellion of 1731 was attended with the lofs of a great number of inhabitants, yet I was informed, that the country had recovered itfelf, and was become more populous than ever, when, in the year 1767, the fmall pox, brought by a foldier from Okotfk, broke out among them for the firft time, marking its progrefs with ravages not lefs dreadful than the plague, and feeming to threaten their entire extirpation. They compute, that near twenty thoufand died of this diforder in Kamtfchatka, the Koreki country, and the Kurile Iflands. The inhabitants of whole villages were fwept away. Of this we had fuflicient proofs before our eyes. There are no lefs than eight oftrogs fcattercd about the bay of Awatfka, all which, we were informed, had been fully inhabited, but are now entirely dc-folate, except St. Peter and St. Paul j and even that contains no more than feven Kamtfchadales, who are tributary. At Paratounca oftrog there are but thirty-fix native inhabitants, 4 men, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 367. men, women, and children, which, before it was vifited by l77?- * Ottobcr. the fmall-pox, we were told, contained three hundred and '-■-* fixty. In our road to Bolcheretfk, we palled four extenfive oftrogs, with not an inhabitant in them. In the prefent di-minifhed ftate or the natives, with frefli fupplies of Ruffians and Coffacks perpetually pouring in, and who intermix with them by marriage, it is probable, that in lefs than half a century there will be very few of them left., By Major Behm's account, there are not now more than three thoufand who pay tribute, the Kurile iflanders included. I underflood that there are at this time, of the military, in the five forts of Nichnei, Verchnei, Tigil, Bolcheretfk, and St. Peter and St. Paul, about four hundred Ruffians and Coffacks, and near the fame number at Ingiga, which, though 10 the North of the peninfula is, I learned, at prefent under the Commander of Kamtfchatka; to thefe may be added the Ruffian traders and emigrants, whofe numbers" are not very confiderable. The Ruffian government, eftablifhed over this country, is mild and equitable, confidered as a military one, in a very high degree. The natives are permitted to choofe their own magiflrates from among themfelves, in the way, and with the fame powers they had ever been ufed. One of thefe, under the title of To ion, pre fides over each oftrog ; is the referee in all differences ; impofes fines, and inflicts punifliments for all crimes and mifdemeanors ; referring to the governor of Kamtfchatka fuch only as he does not choofe, from their intricacy or heinoufnefs, to decide upon himfelf. TheToion has likewife the appointment of a civil officer, called a Corporal, who afliits him in the execution of his office, and in his abfence acts as his deputy. '779- By an edict of the prefent Emprefs, no crime whatfo-v—tf—j ever can be punifhed with death. But we were informed, that in cafes of murder (of which there are very few), the punifhmcnt of the knout is adminiflered with fuch feverity, that the offender, for the mofl part, dies under it. The only tribute exacted (which can be confidcred as little more than an acknowledgment of the Ruffian dominion over them) confifts, in fome diflricts, of a fox's fkin, in others of a fable's, and in the Kurilc ifles of a fea otter's; but as this is much the moft valuable, one fkin ferves to pay the tribute of feveral perfons. The Towns collect the tribute in their refpective diflricts. Befides the mildncfs of -their government, the Ruffians have a.claim to every praife for the pains they have bellowed, and which have been attended with great fuccefs, in converting them to Chriflia-nity, there remaining, at prefent, very few idolaters among them. If we may judge of the other miffionaries, from the hofpitable and benevolent paflor of Paratounca (who is a native on the mothers fide), more fuitable perfons could not be fet over this bufmefs. It is needlefs to add, that the religion taught is that of the Greek church. Schools arc likewife eftablifhed in many of the ojlrogs, where the children of both the natives and Coffacks arc gratuitoufly indructed in the Ruffian language. The commerce of this country, as far as concerns the exports, is intirely confined to furs, and carried on principally by a company of merchants, inilituted by the prefent Emprefs. This company originally confided of twelve, and three have been lately added to it. They are indulged with certain privileges, and dillinguifhed by wearing-a golden medal, medal, as a mark of the Emprefs's encouragement and protection of the fur trade. Befides thefe, there are many inferior traders (particularly of the Coffacks) fcattercd through the country. The principal merchants, for the time they arc here, refidc at Bolcheretfk, or the Nifhnci oftrog, in which two places the trade almofl wholly centers. Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on in the way of barter, but of late years every article is bought and fold for ready money only; and we were furprized at the quantity of fpecic in circulation in fo poor a country. The furs fell at a high price, and the fituation and habits of life of the natives call for few articles in return. Our failors brought a great number of furs with them from the coafl of America, and were not lefs aflonifhed than delighted with the quantity of filver the merchants paid down for them ; but on finding neither gin fhops to rclort to, nor tobacco, or any thing elfe that they cared for, to be had for money, the roubles foon became troublefome companions, and I often obferved them kicking them about the deck. The merchant I have already had occafion to mention, gave our men at firfl thirty roubles for a fea-otter's fkin, and for others in proportion; but finding that they had considerable quantities to difpofe of, and that he had men to deal with who did not know how to keep up the market, he afterward bought them for much lefs. The articles of importation are principally European, but not confined to Ruffian manufactures; many are Enghfli and Dutch ; feveral likewife come from Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They confifl of coarfe woollen and linen clothes, yarn flockings, bonnets, and gloves; thin Perfian filks; cottons, and pieces of nankeen, filk and rotton handkerchiefs; brafs coppers and pans, iron Roves, Vol. III. 3 B files, files, guns, powder and fhot; hardware, fuch as hatchets,, bills, knives, fciffars, needles, looking-glafTes; flour, fu* gar; tanned hides, boots, £tc. Wc had an opportunity of feeing a great many of thefe articles in the hands of a merchant, who came in the Emprcfs's galliot from Okotfk ; and' I fhall only obferve generally, that they fold for treble the price they might have been purchafed for in England. 'And though the merchants have fo large a profit upon thefe imported goods, they have a flill larger upon the furs at Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them. The befl fea-otter. fkins fell generally in Kamtfchatka, for about thirty roubles apiece. The Chinefe merchant at Kiachta purchafes them at more than double that price, and fells them again at Pekin at a great advance, where a farther profitable trade is made with fome of them to Japan, If, therefore, a fkin is worth thirty roubles in Kamtfchatka, to be tranfported firft to Okotfk, thence to be conveyed by land to Kiachta, a diflance of one thoufand three hundred and fixty-four miles, thence on to Pekin, feven hundred and fixty miles more, and after this to be tranfported to Japan, what a prodigioufly advantageous trade might be carried on between this place and Japan, which is but about a fortnight's, at moft, three weeks fail from it ? All furs exported from hence acrofs the fea of Okotfk, pay a duty of ten per cent, and fables a duty of twelve. And all forts of merchandize, of whatever denomination, imported from Okotfk, pay half a rouble for every pood *. * Thirty-fix pounds Englifh. 2 The The duties arifing from the exports and imports, of which I could not learn the amount, are paid at Okotfk: but the tribute is collected at Bolcheretfk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten thoufand roubles annually. There are fix veffels (of forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by the Emprefs between Okotfk and Bolcheretfk ; five of which are appropriated to the tranfporting of flores and provifions from Okotfk to Bolcheretfk ; except that once in two or three years, fome of them go round to Awatfka, and the Kamtfchatka River; the fixth is only ufed as a packet boat, and always kept in readinefs, and properly equipped for conveying difpatches. Befides thefe, there are about fourteen veffels employed by the merchants in the fur trade, amongfl the iflands to the Eaflward. One of thefe we found frozen up in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was to fail on a trading voyage to Oona-lafhka, as foon as the feafon would permit. It is here to be obferved, that the moft confiderable and valuable part of the fur-trade is carried on with the iflands that lie between Kamtfchatka and America. Thefe were firfl difcovered by Beering, in 1741, and being found to abound with fea-otters, the Ruffian merchants became exceedingly eager in fearching for the other iflands feen by that navigator, to the South Eafl of Kamtfchatka, called, in Muller's Map, the Iflands of Seduction, St. Abraham, &c. In thefe expeditions they fell in with three groups of iflands. The firfl about fifteen degrees to the Eafl of Kamtfchatka, in 530 North latitude ; the fecond about twelve degrees to the Eaflward of the former; and the third, Oona-lafhka, and the iflands in its neighbourhood. Thefe trad- 3B 2 ing ing adventurers advanced alfo as far Eafl as Shumagin's Iflands (fo called by Beering), the largeft of which is named Kodiak. But here, as well as on the continent at Alafka, they met with fo warm a reception in their attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward ventured fo far. However they conquered and made tributary the three groups before mentioned. In the Ruffian charts, the whole fea between Kamtfchatka and America is covered with iflands ; for the adventurers in thefe expeditions frequently falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the fituation of other laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it mufl be a new difcovery, and reported it as fuch on their return; and fince the veffels employed in thefe expeditions were ufually out three or four years, and oftentimes longer, thefe miftakes were not in the way of being foon rectified. It is however now pretty certain, that the iflands already enumerated are all that have yet been difcovered, by the Ruffians, in that fea, to the Southward of Go° of latitude. It is from thefe iflands that the fea-otter fkins, the mofl valuable article of the fur trade, are for the mofl parr drawn \ and as they arc brought completely under the Ruffian dominion, the merchants have fettlements upon them, where their factors rcfidc, for the purpofe of bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increafe and cxtenfion of this trade, that the Admiralty of Okotfk fitted out an expedition for the purpofe of making difcoveries to fhe North and North Eaft of the iflands above-mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already obferved, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his courfe courfe too far to the Northward, failed in the object of his »779-voyage; for, as we never faw the fea-otter to the North- —L-> ward of Briifol Bay, it feems probable, that they fhun thofe latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious fea-animals abound. This was the laft expedition undertaken by the Ruffians for profecuting difcoveries to the Eaflward; but they will undoubtedly make a proper ufe of the advantages we have opened to them, by the difcovery of Cook's river. Notwitliflanding the general intercourfe that, for the lall forty years, hath taken place between the natives, the Ruffians, and Coffacks, the former are not more diftin-guifhed from the latter by their features and general figure, than by their habits and eaft of mind. Of the perfons of the natives, a defcription hath been already given, and I fliall only add, that their flature is much below the common fize. This Major Behm attributes, in a great meafure, to their marrying fo early; both fcxes generally entering, into the conjugal flate at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their induilry is abundantly confpicuous, without being contrafted with the lazinefs of their Ruffian and Coffack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them, and, as it fhould feem, for no other reafon, but that they may be fupported in floth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed thofe dreadful fcorbutic complaints, which none of them efcape; whilft the natives, by conflant exercife and toil in the open air, arc intirely free from them. Referring the reader for an account of the manners, cuf-toms, and fuperftitions of the Kamtfchadales, at the time the Ruffians became firft acquainted with this country, to i Krafcheninicoff). Krafcheninicoff, I fhall proceed to a defcription of their habitations and drefs. The houfes (if they may be allowed that name) are of three di ft in (51 forts, jcurts, bo-lagans, and loghoufes, called here ijbas. The firft are their winter, the fecond their fummer habitations; the third are altogether of Ruffian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier fort. The jourts, or winter habitations, arc conflructed in the following manner: An oblong fquare, of dimenfions proportioned to the number of perfons for whom it is intended (for it is proper to obferve, rhat feveral families live together in the fame jourt) is dug in the earth to the depth of about fix feet. Within this fpace, flrong polls, or wooden pillars, are fattened in the ground, at proper diflances from each other, on which are extended the beams for the fup-port of the roof, which is formed by joifts, refting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the other. The interfliccs between the joifts are filled up with a flrong wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; fo that a jourt has externally the appearance of a round fquat hillock. A hole is left in the center, which ferves for chimney, window, and entrance, and the inhabitants pafs in and out by means of a flrong pole (inflead of a ladder) notched juft deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewife another entrance in the fide, even with the ground, for the convenience of the women ; but if a man makes ufe of it, he fubjects himfelf to the fame difgrace and de-rilion, as a failor would, who defcends through lubbers-hole. The jourt confifts of one apartment, of the form of an oblong fquare. Along the fides arc extended broad platforms forms made of boards, and raifed about fix inches from the ground, which they ufe as feats, and on which they go to reft, after flrewing them with mats and fkins. On one fide is the fire-place, and the fide oppofite is entirely fet apart for the ftowage of provifions and kitchen utcnfils. At their feafts, and ceremonious entertainments, the hotter the jourt* are made for the reception of the guefts, the greater the compliment. We found them at all times fo hot, as to make any length of flay in them to us intolerable. They betake themfelves to x\\c jourts the middle of October; and, for the moft part, continue in them till the middle of May. The balagans are raifed upon nine polls, fixed into the earth in three rows, at equal diflances from one another, and about thirteen feet high from the furface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters arc paffed from poll to poll, and firmly fecured by flrong ropes. On thefe rafters are laid the joifts, and the whole being covered with turf, conftitutes the platform or floor of the balagan. On this is raifed a roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, faflened down to the rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and thatched over with flrong coarfe grafs. The balagans have two doors placed oppofite each other, and they afcend to them by the fame fort of ladders they ufe in the jourts. The lower part is left in-tirely open; and within it they dry their fifh, roots, vegetables, and other articles of winter confumption. The proportion of jourts to balagans, is as one to fix; fo that fix families generally live together in one jourt. The loghoufes (ijbasJ are raifed with long timbers piled-horizontally, the ends being let into one another, and tho fcams. ■77* feams caulked with mofs. The roof is doping like that of Ottober. , j ■ T \__,—i our common cottage-houfes, and thatched with coarfc grafs or rufhes. The infide confifls of three apartments. At one end is what may be called the entry, which runs the whole width and height of the houfe, and is the receptacle of their fledges, harnefs, and other more bulky gears and houfe-hold fluff. This communicates with the middle and befl apartment, furnifhed with broad benches, for the purpofe, as hath been above mentioned, of both eating and fleeping upon. Out of this is a door into the kitchen, one half of which is taken up by the oven or fire-place, fo contrived, by being let into the wall that feparates the kitchen and the middle apartment, as to warm both at the fame time. Over the middle apartment and kitchen are two lofts, to which they afcend by a ladder placed in the entry. There are two fmall windows in each apartment, made of talc, and in the houfes of the poorer fort, of fifh fkin. The beams and boards of the cieling are dubbed fmcoth with a hatchet (for they are unacquainted with the plane), and from the effects of the fmoke arc as black and fhining as jet. A town of Kamtfchatka is called an ojlrog, and confifls of feveral of the three forts of houfes above defcribed; but of which balagans are much the mofl numerous; and I mufl obferve, that 1 never met with a houfe of any kind detached from an ojlrog. Saint Peter and Saint Paul confifls of feven loghoufes, or i/bas, nineteen balagans, and three jourts. Paratounca is of about the fame fize. Karatchin and Natchekin contain fewer loghoufes, but full as many jourts and balagans as tne former; from whence I conclude, that fuch is the ufual iizc of the ojlrogs. Having THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 377 Having already had occafion to mention the drefs of the "779- 1 i/i 111 ^ Oaober. Kamtfchadale women, 1 mall here confine myfelf to a de- «____*—t fcription of that of the men. The outermofl garment is of the fhape of a carter's frock. Thofe worn in fummer are of nankeen ; in winter they are made of fkins, moft commonly of the deer or dog, tanned on one fide, the hair being left on the other, which is worn innermofl. Under this is a clofe jacket of nankeen, or other \ cotton fluffs, and beneath that a fhirt of thin Perfian filk, of a blue, red, or yellow colour. The remaining part of their drefs confifls of a pair of tight trowfers, or long breeches, of leather, reaching down to the calf of the leg of a pair of dog or deer fkin boots, with the hair innermofl; and of a fur cap, with two flaps, which are generally tied up clofe to the head, but in bad weather are let to fall round the moulders. The fur drefs prefented to me by a fon of Major Behm (as already mentioned) is one of thofe worn by the Toions, on ceremonious occafions. The form exactly refembles that of the common exterior garment juft defcribed. It is made of fmall triangular pieces of fur, chequered brown and white, and joined fo neatly as to appear to be one fkin. A border of fix inches breadth, wrought with threads of different coloured leather, and producing a rich effect, fur-rounds the bottom, to which is fufpended a broad edging of the fea-otter fkin. The fleeves are turned up with the fame materials ; and there is likewife an edging of it round the neck, and down the opening at the bread. The lining is of a fmooth white fkin. A cap, a pair of gloves, and boots, wrought with the utmoft degree of neatnefs, and made of the fame materials, conflitute the remainder of Vol. Ill, 3 C this this fuir. The Ruffians in Kamtfchatka wear the European drefs j and the uniform of the troops quartered here, is of a dark green, faced with red. As the people fituated to the North and South of this country are yet imperfectly known, I fhall conclude the account of Kamtfchatka with fuch information concerning the Kurile Iflands, and the Koreki and Tfchutfki, as I have been able to acquire. The chain of iflands, running in a South Wefl direction from the Southern promontory of Kamtfchatka to Japan, extending from latitude $i° to 450, are called the Kuriles. They obtained this name from the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who being themfelves called Kuriles, gave their own name to thefe iflands, on firfl becoming acquainted with them. They are, according to Spanberg, twenty-two in number, without reckoning the very fmall ones. The Northcrnmofl, called Shoomfka, is not more than three leagues from the promontory Lopatka, and its inhabitants are a mixture of natives and Kamtfchadales. The next to the South, called Paramoufir, is much larger than Shoomfka, and inhabited by the true natives j their anceflors, according to a tradition among them, having come from an ifland a little farther to the South, called Onecutan. Thofe two iflands were firfl vifited by the Ruffians in 1713, and at the fame time brought under their dominion. The others in order, are at prefent made tributary down to Oofhefheer inclufivc, as I am informed by the worthy Paflor of Paratounca, who is their Miffionary, and vifns them once in three years, and fpcaks of the iflanders in terms of the higheft commendation, reprefenting them as a friendly, hofpitable, generous, humane race of people, 5 and and excelling their Kamtfchadale neighbours, not lefs in *779-the formation of their bodies, than in docility and quick- L— nefs of underflanding. Though Oofhefheer is the Southern-mod ifland that the Ruffians have yet brought under their dominion, yet I underfland that they trade to Ooroop, which is the eighteenth \ and, according to their accounts, the only one where there is a good harbour for fhips of burthen, Deyond this, to the South, lies Nadcegfda, which was repre-fented to us by the Ruffians, as inhabited by a race of men remarkably hairy, and who, like thofe of Ooroop, live in a Rate of entire independence *. In the fame direction, but inclining fomewhat more to the Weftward, lie a group of iflands, which the Japanefeb call Jefo; a name which they alfo give to the whole chain of iflands between Kamtfchatka and Japan. The Southern-moll, called Matmai, hath been long fubject to the Japanefe, and is fortified and garrifoned on the fide toward the continent. The two iflands to the North Eaft of Matmai, Kuna-chir, and Zellany, and likewife the three ftill farther to the North Eaft, called the Three Sifters, are perfectly independent. ■"* Spanberg places the ifland here fpoken of in 430 50" North latitude, and mentions his having watered upon it j and that this watering party brought off eight of the natives ; of whom he relates the following circumflances : That their bodies were covered all over with hair; that they wore a loofe ftriped filk gown, reaching as low as their ankles; and that fome of them had filver rings pendant from the ears : that, on fpying a live cock on deck, they fell on their knees before it; and likewife, before the prefents that were brought out to them, clofing and flretching forth their hands, and bowing their heads, at the fame time, down to the ground j that, except the peculiarity of their hairinefs, they refemblcd the other Kurile iflanders in their features and figure, and fpokc the fame language. The journal of the fhip Caitricom alfo mentions this circumftance of the inhabitants of the country difcovered by them, and called Jefo, being hairy all over the body. 3 c 2 A trade A trade of barter is carried on between Matmai and the iflands laft mentioned; and between thofe again and the Kuriles, to the Northward; in which, for furs, dried fifh, and oil, the latter get filk, cotton, iron, and Japanefe articles of furniture *. The inhabitants of as many of the iflands as are brought under the Ruffian dominion, are, at prefent, converted to Chriftianity. And probably the time is not very diftant, when a friendly and profitable intercourfe will be brought about between Kamtfchatka and the whole of this chain of iilands; and which will draw after it a communication with Japan itfelf. This may eventually be greatly facilitated by a circumftance related to me by Major Behm, that feveral Ruffians, who had been taught the Japanefe language, by two men belonging to a veffel of that nation, which had been f fhipwrecked on the coaft of Kamtfchatka, had been fent among thofe iflands. The * This accounts for what KrachcninicofT fays, that he got from Paramoufir a japanned table and vafc, a fcymeter, and a filver ring, which he fent to the cabinet of her Imperial Majefty at Peterfburg. And if what Mr. Steller mentions, on the authority of a Kurile, who was interpreter to Spanberg in his voyage to Japan, is to be credited, that nearly the fame language is fpoken at Kunafhir and Paramoufir, it cannot be queftioned, that fome intercourfe has always fubfiftcd between the inhabitants of this extenfive chain of iflands. f The vcflel here fpoken of was from Satfma, a port in Japan, bound for another Japanefe port, called Azaka, and laden with rice, cotton, and filks. She failed with a favourable wind ; but, before file reached her destination, was driven out to fea by a violent fturm, which carried away her marls and rudder. On the florin's abating, not one of the crew, which confifted of feventeen (having probably never made other than coalling voyages), knew who they were, or what courfe to freer. After remaining in this fituation fix months, they were driven on fhore near the promontory Lopatka; and having eaft out an anchor, began to carry on fhore fuch articles as were necclfary to their exiftence. They next creeled a tent, and had remained in it twenty-three days, without feeing a human being ; when chance conducted The advantages that would accrue to the Ruffians by an »779- ° 3 October, immediate trade to Japan, have been already adverted to, u and are too many, and too obvious, to need infilling upon. The Koreki country includes two diftinct nations, called the Wandering and Fixed Koriacs. The former inhabit the Northern part of the iflhmus of Kamtfchatka, and the whole coafl of the Eaflern Ocean, from thence to the Anadir. The country of the Wandering Koriacs ftretches along the North Eafi of the fea of Okotfk to the river Penfkina, and Weftward toward the river Kovyma. conducted a Coflack officer, called Andrew ChinnikofT, with a few Kamtfchadales to their habitation. The poor unfortunate Japanefe, overwhelmed with joy at the fight of fellow-creatures, made the mofl fignifrcant tenders, they were able, of friendfhip and affection j and prefented their vifiters with filks, fabres, and a part of whatever clfc they had brought from the (hip. The treacherous Chinnicoft" made reciprocal returns of kindnefs and good-will ; and, after remaining with them long enough to make fuch obfervations as fuited his defigns, withdrew from them in the night. The Japanefe finding that their vifiters did not return,, knew not what courfe to take. In defpair they manned their boat, and were rowing along the coaft in fearch of a habitation, when they came up with their vefTel, which had been driven afhore; and found Chinnicoff and his companions pillaging her, and pulling her in pieces for the fake of the iron. This fight determined them to continue their courfe, which Chinnicoff perceiving, ordered his men to purfue and maflacre them. The unfortunate Japanefe, feeing a canoe in purfuit, and which they could not efcape, apprehended what was to follow. Some of them leaped into ths fea ; others, in vain,, had recourfe to prayer-and intreaties. They were all maflacred but two, by the very fabres they had prefented to their fuppofed friends a few days before. One of the two was a boy about eleven years old, named Gowga, who had accompanied his father, the fhip's pilot, to--learn navigation ; the other was a middle-aged man, the fupcrcargo, and called Sofa, Chinnicoff foon met with the punifhmcnt due to his crimes. The two ftrangcrs were conducted to Peterfburg, where they were fent to the academy, with proper in-ftrudfors and attendants; and feveral young men were, at the fame time, put about them for the purpofe of learning the Japanefe language. They were thrown on the coaft of Kamtfchatka in 1730. The younger furvived' the abfence from his country five, the other fix years. Their portraits are to be feen in the cabinet of the emprefs at Peterfburg. Vid. Krafcheninicoff, Vol. ii. part 4. Fr. Y.d. The The Fixed Koriacs have a flrong refemblance to the Kamtfchadales j and, like them, depend altogether on Cfiling for fubfiflence. Their drefs and habitations are of the fame kind. They are tributary to the Ruflians, and under the diflricl: of the Ingiga. The Wandering Koriacs occupy themfelves intiicly in breeding and pafluring deer, of which they are faid to poflefs immenfe numbers ; and that it is no unufual thing for an individual Chief to have a herd of four or five thoufand. They defpife fifh, and live intirely on deer. They have no bakgdns; and their only habitations arc like the Kamtfchadale jourts, with this difference, that they are covered with raw deer-fkins in winter, and tanned ones in fummer. Their fledges are drawn by deer, and never by dogs; which, like the latter, are likewife always fpaved, in order to be trained to this bufinefs. The draft deer pafture in company with the others ; and when they are wanted, the herdfmen make ufe of a certain cry, which they inftantly obey, by coming out of the herd. The prieflof Paratounca informed me, that the two nations of the Koriacs, and the Tfchutfki fpeak different dialecls of the fame language ; and that it bears not the fmalleft refemblance to the Kamtfchadale. The country of the Tfchutfki is bounded on the South by the Anadir, and extends along the coaft to the Tfchutfkoi Nofs. Like the Wandering Koriacs, their attention is principally confined to their deer, of which their country affords great numbers, both tame and wild. They are a flout, well-made, bold, warlike race of people; redoubtable neighbours to both nations of the Koriacs, who often feel the effects of their depredatory incurfions. The Ruflians have, have, for many years, been ufing their endeavours to bring them under their dominion ; and, after lofing a great many men in their different expeditions for this purpofe, have not been able to effecl: it. I fhall here conclude this article, fince all we can fay of this people, on our own knowledge, hath been laid before the Reader in the preceding Volume. C II A P. CHAP. VIII. Plan of our future Proceedings.—Courfe to the Southward\ along the Coafl of Kamtfchatka.—Cape Lopatka.-—■ Pafs the I/lands Shoomfka and Paramoufir,—Driven to the Eaflward of the Kuriles.—Singular Situation with refpetl to the pretended Difcoveries of former Navigators.—Fruit lefs Attempts to reach the Iflands North of Japan.—Geographical Conclufons.—View of the Coafl of Japan.—Run along the Eaft Side.—Pafs two Japanefe Veffels.—Driven off the Coafl by contrary Winds. —Extraordinary Effecl of Currents*—Steer for the Bafljces.—Pafs large Quantities of Pumice Stone.— Difcover Sulphur Ifland.—Pafs the Pratas.— Ifles of Lema> and Ladron Ifland.—Chinefe Pilot taken on board the Refolution.—Journals of the Officers and Mm fecured. OUR inflructions from the Board of Admiralty having left a difcretionary power with the commanding Of-Saturday 9. ficcr 0f tne expedition, in cafe of failure in the fcarch of a paffage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England, by whatever route he (hould think belt for the farther improvement of geography; Captain Gore demanded of the principal officers their fentiments, in writing, refpecting the manner in which thefe orders might 2 mod: 1779. mofl effectually be obeyed. The refult of our opinions, JFgv which he had the fatisfaction to find unanimous, and in- <-,— tirely coinciding with his own, that the condition of the fhips, of the fails and cordage, made it unfafe to attempt, at fo advanced a feafon of the year, to navigate the fea between Japan and Afia j which would otherwife have afforded the largefl field for difcovery; that it was therefore ad-vifeable to keep to the Eaftward of that ifland, and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles, and examine more particularly the iflands that lie nearefl the Northern coafl of Japan, which are reprefentcd as of a confiderable fize, and independent of the Ruffian and Japanefe governments. Should we be fo fortunate as to find in thefe any fafe and commodious harbours, we conceived they might be of importance, either as places of fhelter for any future navigators, who may be employed in exploring the feas, or as the means of opening a commercial intercourfe among the neighbouring dominions of the two empires. Our next object was to furvey the coafl of the Japanefe Iflands, and afterward to make the coafl of China, as far to the Northward as we were able, and run along it to Macao. This plan being adopted, I received orders from Captain Gore, in cafe of feparation, to proceed immediately to Macao ; and at fix o'clock in the evening of the 9th of O6I0- Saturday 9. ber, having cleared the entrance of Awatfka Bay, we fleered to the South Eafl, with the wind North Wefl and by Wefl. At midnight we had a dead calm, which continued till noon of the 10th; the light-houfe, at this time, bearing Sunday 10. North half Wefl, diflant five leagues, and Cape Gavareea South by Wefl half Wefl. Being luckily in foundings of fixty and feventy fathoms water, we employed our time very profitably in catching cod, which were exceedingly Vol. III. 3 D fine '779- fine and plentiful: and at three in the afternoon, a breeze October. r ' i-j-i fprung up from the Wefl, with which we flood along the coafl to the Southward. A head land, bearing South by Wefl, now opened with Cape Gavareea, lying about feven leagues beyond it. Between them are two narrow but deep inlets, which may probably unite behind what appears to be an high ifland. The coafl of thefe inlets is fleep and cliffy. The hills break abruptly, and form chafms and deep vallies, which are well wooded. Between Cape Ga-vereea (which lies in latitude 520 21', longitude 1580 38') and Awatfka Bay, there are appearances of feveral inlets, which at firft fight may flatter the mariner with hopes of finding fhelter and fafe anchorage: but the Ruffian pilots affured us, that there are none capable of admitting veffels of the fmallefl fize, as the low land fills up the fpaces that appear vacant between the high projecting head-lands. Toward evening, it again became calm \ but, at midnight, we had a light breeze from the North, which increafed gradually Monday n, to a flrong gale; and at noon, the next day, we found ourfelvcs in latitude 520 4', longitude 158° 31', when Cape Gavareea bore North by Well one quarter Wefl; the South extreme South Well half Weft. We were at this time diflant from the nearcfl fhore about three leagues, and faw the whole country inland covered with fnow. A point of land to the Southward, which we place in latitude 510 54', formed the North fide of a deep bay, called Achachinfkoi, in the diflant bottom of which we fuppofed a large river to empty itfelf, from the land behind being fo unufually low. South of Achachinfkoi Bay, the land is not fo rugged and barren as that part of the country which we had before paffed. 2 During During the night we had variable winds and rain i but at Jg?9* • it October. four in the morning or the 12th, it began to blow fo flrong, ■-*~—* from the North Eaft, as to oblige us to double-reef the top- Tuefday I2' fails, and make it prudent to ftand more off the fhore. At fix, the weather becoming more moderate and fair, we again made fail, and flood in for the land. At noon, our latitude was 51° o', longitude 157° 25'. The Northernmofl land in fight, being the point we have mentioned as firfl opening with Cape Gavareea, bore North North Eafl. A head-land, with a flat top, which is in latitude 510 27', and makes the South point of an inlet, called Girowara, bore North one quarter Eafl, and the Southernmofl land in fight Weft three quarters North, diftant fix leagues. At this time we could jull perceive low land flretching from the Southern extreme; but the wind veering round to the North Weft, we could not get a nearer view of it. At fix in the afternoon, we faw, from the mart head, Cape Lopatka, the Southernmofl extremity of Kamtfchatka. It is a very low flat Cape, Hoping gradually from the high level land that we law at noon, and bore Wefl half North, about five leagues diftant; and the high land North Wefl by Wefl half Wefl. As this point of land forms fo marked an object in the geography of the Eaflern coafl of Afia, we were glad to be able, by an accurate obfervation, and feveral good angles, to determine its precife fituation, which is in latitude 510 o', longitude 1560 45'. To the North Wefl of it we faw a remarkable high mountain, the top of which lofes itfelf in the clouds; and, at the fame time, the firfl of the Kurile Iflands, called Shoomfka, appeared in fight, bearing Wefl half South. The paffage between this illand and Cape Lopatka, the Ruflians defcribe as being three miles broad, and very dangerous, on account of the rapidity of the tides, 3D? and oaobcr ancl fun^ tock$ that are off the Cape. From Cape Ga-v—vareea to Lopatka, the coaft trends South Eaft. South of Achachinfkoi, the land is not fo high and broken as between that Bay and the mouth of Awatfka, being only of a moderate elevation toward the fea, with hills gradually rifmg farther back in the country. The coaft is fteep and bold, and full of white chalky patches. At noon, the weather falling again to a calm, afforded us an opportunity of catching fome fine cod. We were, at this time, in forty fathoms water, and about five or fix leagues from Cape Lopatka. Both in the fore and afternoon, we had obfervations, with different compaffes, for the variation, and found it to be 50 20' Eaft. We flood on all night, under an eafy fail, to the South South Weft, having the wind Wefterly. At midnight, we founded, and had fixty fathoms; and, at day-break of the Wednef.13. 13th, we faw the fecond of the Kurile Iflands (called by the Ruflians Paramoufir), extending, from North Weft by Weft, to Wefl half South. This land is very high, and almofl intirely covered with fnow. At noon, the extremes bore from North North Weft half Weft, to Weft North Weft half Weft; and a high peaked mountain, from which fome thought they faw fmoke iffuing, North Weft by Wefl half Wefl, about twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. At this time our latitude, by obfervation, was 49* 49', and our longitude 1570 o'. In the courfe of the day we faw many gulls and albatrofles, and feveral whales. Paramoufir is the largefl of the Kuriles under the dominion of Ruflia, and well deferves a more accurate furvey, than we were at this time allowed to take. For, in the afternoon, the gale increafing from the Weft, we were never able able to approach it nearer than we had done at noon ; and were, therefore, obliged to be contented with endeavouring <-1-» to afcertain its fituation at that diftance. We place the South end of the ifland in latitude 490 58' j the North end in latitude 50* 46', and in longitude io' Weft of Lopatka; and as this pofition is found not to differ materially from that given by the Ruflians, it is probably very near the truth. Whilft we were abreaft of this ifland, we had a very heavy fwell from the North Eafl, though the wind had, for fome time, been from the Weftward; a circumftance which we have already remarked more than once during the courfe of our voyage. In the night we tried for foundings, but found no ground with fifty fathoms of line. On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing fleadily and frefh ThiirfeUyi*. from the Weftward, we were obliged to fland to the South- Frida> ward; and confequently hindered from feeing any more of the Kurile iflands. At noon of the 16th, the latitude, by Saturday is. obfervation, was 450 27'; the longitude, deduced from a number of lunar obfervations taken during the three days paft, 1550 30'. The variation 40 30' Eafl, In this fituation, we were almofl furrounded by the fuppofed difcoveries of former navigators, and uncertain to which we fhould turn ourfelves. To the Southward and the South Wefl were placed, in the French charts, a groupe of five iflands, called the Three Sifters, Zellany and Kunafhir. We were about ten leagues, according to the fame maps, to the Weftward of the land of De Gama, which we had paffed to the Eaflward in April laft, at a diftance rather lefs than this, without feeing any appearance of it; from which circumftance we may now conclude, that, if fuch land exift at all, it mull be an ifland of a very inconfiderable q fize* oaober ^ize** ®n tnc 0t^^r hand, if we give credit to the original *—-v-—i pofition of this land, fixed by Tcxiera f, it lay to the Wefl by South; and as the Company's LandJ, Staten Ifland §, and the famous land of Jefo||, were alfo fuppofed to lie nearly * From Muller's account of the courfe fleered by Captain Spanberg, in his route from Kamtfchatka to Japan, it appears, that he muft alfo undoubtedly have feen De Gama's Land, if it really has the extent given it in Mr. d'Anville's maps. Walton, who commanded a veflcj in the fame expedition, feems alfo to have looked in vain for this land on his return from Japan ; and three years afterward, on account of fome doubts that had arifen refpecting opanberg's courfe, Beering went directly in fearch of it, as low as the latitude of 46'. See Voyages et Decouvertes, &c. p. 210, & feq. f See Book VI. Chap. i. p. 149. £ This land was feen by the Dutchmen who failed in the Caftricom and Brelk.es, and imagined by them to be part of the continent of America. There now remains fcarce any doubt of its being the iflands of Ooroop and Nadeegfda. See the Journals of the Caftricom and Brefkes, publifhcd by Wetzer. § This land was alfo difcovered by the Caftricom ; and, from its fituation, as defcribed in the journal of that veflel, it appears to be the iflands of the Three Sifters. j| The country of Jefo, which has fo long been a ftumbling-block to our modern geographers, was firft brought to the knowledge of Europeans by the Dutch veflcls mentioned in the preceding notes. The name appears, from the carlieft accounts, to have been well known, both to the Japanefe and the Kamtfchadales; and ufed by them, indifcriminatcly, for all the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and Japan. It has fince been applied to a large imaginary ifland, or continent, fuppofed to have been difcovered by the Caftricom and Brefkes ; and it may not, therefore, be improper to confidcr the grounds of this miftake, as far as can be collected from the. Journals of this expedition. The object of the voyage, in which thofe fhips were engaged, was to explore the Eaftcrn fhore of Tartary ; but, being fcparated by a ftorm off the South Eaft point of Japan, they failed in different tracks along the Eaft fide of that ifland ; and, having palled its Northern extremity, proceeded fingly on their intended expedition. The Caftricom, commanded by De Vries, fleering Northward, fell in with land on the third day, in latitude 42'"*. lie failed along the South Eaft coaft about fixty leagues in a confront fog j and having anchored in various places, held a friendly intercourfe with the inhabitants. Thus far the Journal. Now, as the iflands of Matimai, Kunaftiir, and Zellany appear, from Captain Spanberg's Difcoveries, to lie exactly in this fituation, there can be no doubt of their being the fame land ; and the circumftance of the fog fufficicntly accounts for the error of De Vries, in imagining them nearly in the fame direction, together with the group firft mentioned, according to the Ruffian charts, we thought this coaft deferved the preference, and accordingly hauled round to the Weftward, the wind having fhifted, in the afternoon, to the Northward. During this flay we faw large flocks of gulls, feveral albatrofTes, fulmars, and a number of fifh, which our failors called grampufes; but, as far as wc could judge, from the appearance of thofe that paffed clofe by the fhips, wc imagined them to be the kafatka, or fword-fifh, defcribed by Krafcheninicoff, to whom I refer the Reader, for a curious account of the manner in which they attack the whales. In the evening, a vifit from a fmall land-bird, about the fize of a gold-finch, and refembling that bird in fhape and plumage, made us keep a good look-out for land. However, at midnight, on trying for foundings, we found no ground with forty-five fathoms of line. them to be one continent; without having- rccoiirfe to the fuppofition of an earthquake, by which Mr. Muller, from his defire to reconcile the opinion generally received, with the later Ruffian difcoveries, conceives the feveral parts to have been feparated. The Journal then proceeds to give an account of the difcovery of Staten Ifland and Company's Land, of which I have already given my opinion, and fhall have occafion to fpeak hereafter. Having pafled through the Straits of De Vries, fays the Journal, they entered a vaft, wild, and tempeftuous fea, in which they fleered, through milts and darknefs, to the 480 latitude North ; after which they were driven by contrary winds to the Southward, and again fell in with land to the Weftward, in latitude 45% which they unaccountably ftill imagined to be part of the continent of Jefo; whereas, whoever examines Janfen's map of their difcoveries (which appears to be exceedingly accurate, as far as his information went), will, I believe, have no doubt, that they were, at this time, on the coaft of Taitary. Having traced this land four degrees to the Northward, they returned to the Southward through the Straits they had pafled before. It is not ncceflary to trouble the Reader with the Journal of the Brefkes, as it contains no new matter, and has been already republifhed, and very fatisfaclorily animadverted upon by Mr. Muller. Voyages from Afia to America, &c. Englifh Translation, p. 78. On '779- On the 17th, at noon, we were in latitude as0 7', by ob- October. t ' J *-——1 fervatiom longitude i54°o'. The wind now again coming " iy I7' to the Weftward, obliged us to fleer a more Southerly courfe; and, at midnight, it blew from that quarter a frefli gale, accompanied with heavy r,ain. In the morning, we faw another land-bird, and many flocks of gulls and peterels bending their courfe to the South Wefl. The heavy North Eafl fwell, with which we had conflantly laboured fince our departure from Lopatka, now ceafed, and changed Monday 18. fuddenly to the South Eaft. In the forenoon of the 18th, we paffed great quantities of rock-weed, from which, and the flights of birds above mentioned, we conjectured we were at no great diflance from the Southernmofl: of the Kuriles; and, at the fame time, the wind coming round to the South, enabled us to fland in for it. At two, we fet fludding-fails, and fleered Weft; but the wind incrcaling to a gale, foon obliged us to double reef the topfails; and, at midnight, we judged it neceffary to try for foundings. Accordingly wc hove to-, but, finding no bottom at feventy-five fathoms, we were encouraged to perfevere, and again bore away Weft, with the wind at South Eaft. This courfe we kept Tuefday 19, till two in the morning, when the weather becoming thick, we hauled our wind, and fleered to the South Wefl till five, when a violent florm reduced us to our courfes. Notwitliflanding the unfavourable ftate of the weather left us little profpecr. of making the land, we ftill kept this object anxioufly in view ; and, at day-light, ventured to fleer Weft by South, and continued to fland on in this direction till ten in the forenoon, when the wind, fuddenly fhifting to the South Weft, brought with it clear weather. Of this we had fcarcely taken advantage, by fetting the top-fails, and letting out the reefs, when it began to blow fo flrong flrong from this quarter, that we were forced to clofe-reeve again; and, at noon, the wind fhifting two points to the Weft, rendered it vain to keep any longer on this tack. We therefore put about, and fleered to the Southward. At this time, our latitude, by obfervation, was 44° 12', and longitude 1500 40'; fo that, after all our efforts, wc had the mortification to find ourfclves, according to the Ruffian charts, upon a meridian with Nadeegfda, which they make the Southernmofl of the Kurilc iflands, and about twenty leagues to the Southward. But, though the violent and contrary winds we had met with during the laft fix days, prevented our getting in with thefe iflands, yet the courfe we had been obliged to hold, is not without its geographical advantages. For the group of iflands, confining of the Three Sifters, Kunafhir and Zel-lany, which, in D'Anville's maps, are placed in the track we had juft croffed; being, by this means, demonftratively removed from that fituation, an additional proof is obtained of their lying to the Weftward, where Spanberg actually places them, between the longitude 142" and 1470. But as this fpace is occupied, in the French charts by part of the fuppofed land of Jefo and Staten Ifland, Mr. Muller's opinion becomes extremely probable, that they are all the fame lands; and as no reafons appear for doubting Spanbcrg's accuracy, we have ventured, in our general map, to re inflate the Three Sifters, Zellany, and Kunafhir, in their proper fituation, and have entirely omitted the reft. When the Reader recollects the manner in which the Ruffians have multiplied the iflands of the Northern Archipelago, from the want of accuracy in determining their real fituation, and the defire men naturally feel of propagating new difcoveries, he will not be furprized, that the fame caufes mould produce the Vol. III. 3 E fame o2?V **ame cflTefts. It is thus that the Jefoian lands, which ap~ ^-Iv—Jj pear, both from the accounts of the japanefe, and the earliefl Human traditions, to be no other than the Southern Kurile iflands, have been fuppofed diftincl: from the latter. The land of De Gama is next on record ; and was originally placed nearly in the fame fituation with thofe juft mentioned; but was removed, as has been already fuggeft-ed, to make room for Staten Ifland, and the Company's Land ; and as Jefo, and the Southernmofl of the Kuriles, had alfo pofleifion of this fpace, that nothing might be loft, they were provided for, the former a little to the Weftward, and the latter to the Eaflward. As the iflands of Zellany and Kunafhir, according to the Ruffian charts, were ftill to the Southward, we were not without hopes of being able to make them, and therefore kept our head as much to the Weftward as the wind would WeJnef. 2C, permit. On the 20th, at noon, we were in latitude 430 47', and longitude 1500 30'; and, fleering Weft by South, with a moderate breeze from South Eaft, and probably not more than twenty-four leagues to the Eaflward of Zellany, when our good fortune again deferted us. For, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the wind veering round to the North Weil, began to blow fo flrong, that we were brought under our forefail and mizen (lay-fail. We had very heavy Ujualls, and hard rain during the next twenty-four hours ; iiier which, the horizon clearing a little, and the weather growing moderate, we were enabled to fet the topfails; but the wind, ftill continuing to blow from the North Well, bafllcd all our endeavours to make the land, and obliged us, at Lift, to give up all further thoughts of difcovery to the North of japan. We fubmittcd to this difappointment with the greater reluctance, as the accounts that arc given of the inhabitant' THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 395 inhabitants of thefe iflands, mentioned at the end of the '77L9* October. lafl Chapter, had excited in us the greater curiofity to vifit \—-v~-/ them. In the afternoon, the leach-rope of the Rcfolution's fore-top-fail gave way, and fplit the fail. As this accident had often happened to us in Captain Cook's life-time, he had ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the topfails to be taken out, and larger fixed in their ftead ; and as thefe alfo proved unequal to the flrain that was on them, it is evident, that the proper proportion of flrength between thofe ropes and the fail is exceedingly mifcalculatcd in our fervice. This day a land-bird perched on the rigging, and was taken; it was larger than a fparrow, but, in other refpects, very like one. The gale now abated gradually ; fo that, in the morning of the 22d, we let out the reefs of the topfails* and made Friday 22. more fail. At noon, we were in latitude 400 58', and longitude 1480 17' j the variation 30 Eaft. In the afternoon, another little wanderer from the land pitched on the fhip, and was fo worn out with fatigue, that it fuffered itfelf to he taken immediately, and died a few hours afterward. It was not bigger than a wren, had a tuft of yellow feathers on its head, and the reft of its plumage like that of the linnet. The fparrow, being ftrongcr, lived a long time. Thefe birds plainly indicating, that wc could not be at any great diftance from the land, and the wind, after varying a little, fixing in the evening at North, our hopes of making the land again revived, and we hauled up to the Weft North Weft, in which direction, the Southernmofl iflands, feen by Spanberg, and faid to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the diftance of about fifty leagues. But the wind not keeping 3 E 2 pace 1779. Oftober. Saturday 23. Sunday 24. Monday 15, pace with our wiihes, blew in fuch light airs, that we mack little way, till eight the next morning, when wc had a frefli breeze from the South South Weft, wTith which we continued to fteer Weft North Weft till the evening. At noon, we were in latitude 40" 35', longitude 1460 45'; the latter deduced from feveral lunar obfervations taken during the night. The variation of the needle we found to be 17' Eaft. In the evening, we had ftrong fqually gales attended with rain, and having paffed, in the courfe of the day, feveral patches of green grafs, and feen a fliag, many fmall land birds, and flocks of gulls, it was not thought prudent, with all thefe figns of the vicinity of land, to fland on during the whole night. We therefore tacked at midnight, and fleered a few hours to the South Eaft, and at four in the morning of the 24th, again directed our courfe to the Weft North Weft, and carried a prefs of fail till feven in the evening, when the wind fhifted from South South Weft to North, and blew a frefli gale. At this time we were in the latitude of 40° 57', and the longitude of 1450 20'. This fecond difappointment, in our endeavours to get to the North Weft, together with the boifterous weather we had met with, and the little likelihood, at this time of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our views, were Captain Gore's motives for now finally giving up all farther fearch for the iflands to the North of Japan, and for fliap-ing a courfe Weft South Weft, for the North part of that ifland. In the night, the wind fhifted to the North Eaft, and blew a frefli gale, with hard rain, and hazy weather, which, by noon of the 25th, brought us to the latitude of 400 18', in the longitude 1440 o'. To-day wc faw flights of wild ducks, a pigeon lighted on our rigging, and many birds, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 397 birds, like linnets, flew about us with a degree of vigour jrfa ° 0 Oclober. that feemed to prove, they had not been long upon the <-g-* wing. We alfo palled patches of long grafs, and a piece either of fugar-cane or bamboo. Thefe figns, that land was at no great diflance, induced us to try for foundings ; but we found no ground with ninety fathoms of line. Toward evening, the wind by degrees fhifted round to the South, with which wc flill kept on to the Well South Wefl; and at day-break of the 26th, we had the pleafure of defcrying Tuefday 26. high land to the Weftward., which proved to be Japan. At eight, it extended from North Weft to South by Weft, diftant three or four leagues. A low flat cape bore North Weft three-quarters Weft, and feemed to make the South part of the entrance of a bay. Toward the South extreme, a conical fhaped hill bore South by Weft three-quarters Weft. To the Northward of this hill there appeared to be a very deep inlet, the North fide of the entrance into which is formed by a low point of land, and", as well as we could judge by our glaffes, has a fmall ifland near it to the Southward. We flood on till nine, when wc were within two leagues of the land, bearing Weft three-quarters Southland had foundings of fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom of very fine fand. We now tacked and flood off; but the wind dying away, at noon we had got no farther than three leagues from the coaft, which extended from North Weft by North three-quarters Weft, to South half Eaft, and was, for the moft parr, bold and cliffy. The low cape to the Northward bore North Weft by Weft, fix leagues diftant; and the North point of the inlet South, three-quarters Weft. The latitude, by obfervation, was 400 5', and longitude 142° 28'. The Northcrnmoft land in fight, we judged to be the Northern oSer Northern extremity of Japan*. It is lower than any other «-part; and, from the range of the high lands that were feen over it from the mad-head, the coaft appeared evidently to incline round to the Weftward. The North point of the inlet we fuppofed to be Cape Nambu, and the town to be fituated in a break of the high land, toward which the inlet feemed to direct itfelff. The country is of a moderate height, confifls of a double range of mountains ; it abounds with wood, and has a pleafing variety of hills and dales. We law the fmoke of feveral towns or villages, and many houfes near the fhore, in pleafant and cultivated fituations. During the calm, being willing to make the befl: ufe of our time, we put our fifhing lines overboard, in ten fathoms water, but without any fuccefs. As this was the only amufement our circumflances admitted, the difappoint-ment was always very fenfibly felt, and made us look back with regret to the cod-banks of the dreary regions we had left, which had fupplied us with fomany wholefome meals, and, by the diver Hon they afforded, had given a variety to the wearifome fucceflion of gales and calms, and the tedious repetition of the fame nautical obfervations. At two in the afternoon, the breeze frefhened from the Southward, and, by four, had brought us under clofe-reefed topfails, * The only authentic furvey of the Eaflern coafl of Japan, with which I am acquainted, is that publifhcd by Janfen in his Atbs, and compiled with great accuracy from the clu.rts and journals of the Caftricom and Brafkes. I have therefore adopted, wherever the Identity of the fituations could be nearly afcertained, the names given in that map to the corresponding points and head-lands feen by us along the coafl. Janfen places the Northern extremity of Japan) in latitude 40° 15'. The point feen by us was in latitude 40^ 27'. ■j- This town is called by Janfen, Nabo. and and obliged us to (land off to the South Eaft. In confe- ,7"° ° • , October. quencc of this courfe, and the hazinefsof the weather, the ^______/ land foon difappeared. We kept on all night, and till eight the next morning, when the wind coming round to the Wednef. 27. North, and growing moderate, wc made fail, and fleered Weft South Wefl, toward the land ; but did not make it till three in the afternoon, when it extended from North Weft half Weft to Weft. The Northernmoft extreme being a continuation of the high land, which was the Southcrnmoft we had feen the day before ; the land to the Weft we conceived to be the Hofc Tafel Berg (the High Table Hill) of Janfen. Between the two extremes, the coaft was low and fcarccly perceptible, except from the maft-head. Wc flood on toward the coaft till eight, when we were about five leagues diftant; and having fhortened fail for the night, fleered to the Southward, founding every four hours j but never found ground with one hundred and fixty fathoms of line. On the 28th, at fix in the morning, we again faw land, Thurfdayz*.. twelve leagues to the Southward of that feen the preceding day, extending from Weft South Weft to Weft by North. We fleered South Weft obliquely with the more; and, at ten, faw more land open to the South Weft. To the Weftward of this land, which is low and flat, are two iflands, as we judged, though fome doubts were entertained, whether they might not be connected with the adjacent low ground. The hazy weather, joined to our diftance, prevented us alfo from determining, whether there are any inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which fcem here to prcmife good fhelter. At noon, the North extreme bore North Wefl by North, and a high peaked hill, over a fteep head-land, Weft by North, diftant live leagues. Our latitude at this time, by obfervation, was 380 16', longitude 1420 9'. The 1 mcaiii l?79- mean of the variation, from obfervations taken both in the October. t.—w—fore and afternoon, was i* zo Eaft. At half pad three in the afternoon, we loft light of the land; and, from its breaking off fo fuddenly, conjectured, that what we had feen this day is an ifland, or, perhaps, a chiller of iflands, lying off the main land of Japan ; but as the iflands, called by Janfen the Schildpads, and by Mr. D'Anville Matfima, though laid down nearly in the fame fituation, arc not equal in extent to the land feen by us, we muft leave this point undecided. Having kept a South Weft courfe during the remaining part of the day, we found ourfelvcs, at midnight, in feventy fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark brown fand. We therefore hauled up Friday z9. to tnc Eaflward, tiU morning, when we faw the land again, about eleven leagues to the Southward of that which we had feen the day before; and at eight, we were within fix or feven miles of the fhore, having carried in regular foundings from fixty-five to twenty fathoms, over coarfe fand and gravel. Unluckily there was a haze over the land, which hindered our diftinguifhing fmall objects on it. The coaft is ftraight and unbroken, and runs nearly in a North and South direction. Toward the fea the ground is low, but rifes gradually into hills of a moderate height, whofe tops are tolerably even, and covered with wood. At nine o'clock, the wind miffing to the Southward, and the fky low-ring, we tacked and flood off to the Eaft, and foon after, we faw a veffel, clofe in with the land, Handing along the fhore to the Northward, and another in the offing, coming down on us before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging to a country fo famous, and yet fo little known, it will be eafily conceived, muft have excited a general curi- 7 ofity,' ofity, and accordingly every foul on board was upon deck ^779. in an inflant, to gaze at them. As the veiTel to windward -—,——t approached us, fhe hauled farther off fhore ; upon which, fearing that we fhould alarm them by the appearance of a purfuit, we brought the fhips to, and fhe paffed ahead of us, at the diftance of about half a mile. It would have been eafy for us to have fpoken with them ; but perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened, Captain Gore was not willing to augment their terrors ; and, thinking that we fhould have many better opportunities of communication with this people, fullered them to go off without interruption. Our diflance did not permit us to remark any particulars regarding the men on board, who feemed to be about fix in number, efpecially as the hazinefs of the weather precluded the ufe of our glafles. According to the befl conjectures we were able to form, the veffel was about forty tons burthen. She had but one mail, on which was hoifled a fquare fail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked forward. Half-way down the fail, came three pieces of black cloth, at equal diflances from each other. The veffel was higher at each end than in the midfhip; and we imagined, from her appearance and form, that it was impoffible for her to fail any otherwife than large. At noon, the wind frefhened, and brought with it a good deal of rain; by three, it had increafed fo much, that we were reduced to our courfes; at the fame time, the fea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to have feen it. If the Japanefe veffels are, as Kazmpfer defcribes them, open in the flcrn, it would not have been poflible for thofe we faw, to have furvived the fury of this florm; but as the appearance of the weather, all the preceding part of the Vol. III. 3 F day, oHobvx f°ret0^ *ts coming, and one of the floops had, not- withilanding, flood far out to fea, wc may fafely conclude, that they are perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Spanberg indeed defcribes two kinds of Japanefe veffels; one anfwering to the above defcription of Kxmpfer; the other, which he calls buffes, and in wdiich, he fays, they make their voyages to the neighbouring iflands, exactly correfponds with thofe we faw *. At eight in the evening, the gale fhifted to the Wefl, without abating the Ieaft in violence, and by railing a fudden fwell, in a contrary direction to that which prevailed before, occafioned the fhips to flrain and labour exceedingly. During the florm, feveral of the fails were fplit on board the Refolution. Indeed they had been fo long bent, and were worn fo thin, that this accident had of late happened to us almofl daily, in both fhips; efpecially when being fliff and heavy with the rain, they became lefs able to bear the fhocks of the violent and variable winds we at this time experienced. The gale at length growing moderate, and fettling to the Wefl, wc kept upon a wind to the Southward j Saturday 30. and at nine in the morning of the 30th, we faw the land, at the diflance of about fifteen leagues, bearing from Wefl by North to North Wefl one quarter Wefl. It appeared in detached parts; but whether they were fmall iflands, or parts of Japan, our diflance did not enable us to determine. At noon, it extended from North Wefl to Wefl, the nearefl land being about thirteen leagues diflant, beyond which the coafl feemed to run in a Weflerly direction. The latitude, by obfervation, was 360 41', longitude 142* 6'. The point to the Northward, which was fuppofed to be near the * Vide Muller, Fr. ed. page 215, Southernmofl Southernmoft land feen the day before, we conjectured to »77Q- October. be Cape de Kcnnis, and the break to the Southward of this--„-* point, to be the mouth of the river on which the town of Giffima is faid to be fituated. The next cape is probably that called in the Dutch charts Boomtje's Point, and the Southernmofl, off which we were abreaft at noon, we fup-pofe to be near Low Point*, and that we were at too great a diflance to fee the low land, in which it probably terminates, to the Eaflward. In the afternoon, the wind veering round to the North Eafl, we flood to the Southward, at the diflance of about eighteen leagues from the fhore, trying for foundings, as we went along, but finding none with one hundred and fifteen fathoms of line. At two the next morning, it fhifted to Sunday 31. Weft, attended with rain and lightning, and blowing in heavy fqualls. During the courfe of the day, we had feveral fmall birds of a brown plumage, refembling linnets, flying about us, which had been forced off the land by the flrong Wefterly gales; but toward the evening, the wind coming to the North Weft, we fhaped our courfe, along with them, to Weft South Weft, in order to regain the coaft. In the morning of the 1 ft of November, the wind again fhifted to South November. Eaft, and bringing with it fair weather, we got forty-two Monday u fets of diflances of the moon from the fun and flars, with four different quadrants, each fet confiding of fix obfervations ; thefe agreeing pretty nearly with each other, fix our fituation at noon the fame day, with great accuracy, in longitude 1410 32', the latitude, by obfervation, was 35° 17'. We found an error of latitude, in our reckonings of the preceding day, of eight miles, and in this day's of feventeen; * Lagt Hncky or Low Point, is placed by Janfen in latitude 360 40'. 3 F 2 from *779i from whence, and from our being; much more to the Earl-November. ° *—' ward than we expected, we concluded, that there had been a flrong current from the South Weft. At two in the afternoon, we again made the land to the Weftward, at the diftance of about twelve leagues; the Southernmoft land in fight, which we fuppofed to be White Point*', bore Weft South Weft half Weft ; a hummock to the Northward, which had the appearance of being an ifland, bore North North Weft half Weft, within which we faw from the maft-head low land, which we took to be Sand-down Pointf. We flood in toward the land, till half paft five, when we hauled our wind to the Southward. At this time we faw a number of Japanefe veffels, clofe in with the land, feveral feemingly engaged in fifhing, and others fland-ing along fhore. We now difcovered to the Weftward a remarkably high mountain, with a round top, riling far inland. There is no high ground near it, the coaft being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as we could judge, from the hazinefs of the horizon, much broken by fmall inlets. But jo the Southward of the hummock ifland before mentioned, there appeared, at a great diftance, within the country, a ridge of hills, flretching in a direction toward the mountain, and probably joining with it. As this is the moft remarkable hill on the coaft, we could have wifhed to have fettled its fituation exactly; but having only had this fingle view, were obliged to be contented with fuch accuracy as our circum-ftances would allow. Its latitude therefore we conceive to be 350 20', its longitude, eftimated by its diftance from the fhips, at this time fifteen leagues, 1400 26', * JViite Hoick, placed by Janfen in latitude 350 24v \ Sanchiynege Hoick, in latitude 55'. Janfen, i As THE PACIFIC OCEAN. #h Ag the Dutch charts make the coaft of Tapan extend about 1779- " 1 November. ten leagues to the South Weft of White Point, at eight we *--—> tacked, and flood off to the Eaflward, in order to weather the point. At midnight, we again tacked to the South Weft, expecting to fall in with the coaft to the Southward, but were furprized, in the morning at eight, to fee the Tuefday 2. hummock, at the diflance only of three leagues, bearing Weft North Weft. We began, at firft, to doubt the evidence of our fenfes, and afterward to fufpect fome deception from a fimilarity of land ; but, at noon, we found ourfelvcs, by obfervation, to be actually in latitude 350 43', at a time when our reckonings gave us 34* 48'. So that, during the eight hours in which we fuppofed we had made a courfe of nine leagues to the South Weft, we had in reality been carried eight leagues from the pofition we left, in a direction diametrically oppofite ; which made, on the whole, in that fhort fpace of time, a difference, in our reckoning, of feventeen leagues. From this error, we calculated, that the current had fet to the North Eaft by North, at the rate of at leaft five miles an hour. Our longitude, at this time, was 1410 16'. The weather having now the fame threatening appearance as on the 29th of October, which was followed by fo fudden and fevere a gale, and the wind continuing at South South Eaft, it was thought prudent to leave the fhore, and fland off to the Eaflward, to prevent our being entangled with the land. Nor were we wrong in our prognoftica-tions; for it foon afterward began, and continued till next day, to blow a heavy gale, accompanied with hazy and rainy weather. In the morning of the 3d, we found our- Wedn»£ felves, by our reckoning, upward of fifty leagues from the land 3 which circumftance, together with the very extraordinary Kr }779- dinary effect of currents we had before experienced, the n»—w—-/ late feafon of the year, the unfettled ftate of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made Captain Gore refolve to leave Japan altogether, and profe-cute our voyage to China ; hoping, that as the track he meant to purfue had never yet been explored, he fhould be able to make amends, by fome new difcovery, for the dif-appointments wre had met with on this coaft. If the reader fhould be of opinion that we quitted this object too haftily, in addition to the facts already ftated, it ought to be remarked, Kcempfer defcribes the coaft of Japan as the moft dangerous in the whole world*; that it would have been equally dangerous, in cafe of diflrefs, to run into any of their harbours; where we know, from the beft authorities, that the averfion of the inhabitants to any intercourfe with ftrangers, has led them to commit the moft atrocious barbarities ; that our fhips were in a leaky condition; that our fails were worn out, and unable to withftand a gale of wind; and that the rigging was fo rotten as to require conflant and perpetual repairs. As the flrong currents, which fet along the Eaflern coaft of Japan, may be of dangerous confequence to the navigator, who is not aware of their extraordinary rapidity, I fhall take leave of this ifland, with a fummary account of their force and direction, as obferved by us from the ill to the 8th of November. On the ill, at which time we were about eighteen leagues to the Eaflward of White Point, the current fet North Eaft and by North, at the rate of three miles an hour; on the qd, as we approached the fhore, we * See Kasmpfer's Hifh of Japan, Vol. I. p. 92, 93, 94, and 102. found THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 407 found it continuing in the fame direction, but increafed in *779- 0 r November,. its rapidity to five miles an hour; as we left the fhore it 1-j again became more moderate and inclined to the Eaflward; on the 3d, at the diflance of fixty leagues, it fet to the Eafl North Eafl, three miles an hour; on the 4th and 5th, it turned to the Southward, and at one hundred and twenty leagues from the land, its direction was South Eafl, and its rate not more than a mile and half an hour j on the 6th and 7th, it again fhifted round to the North Eafl, its force gradually diminishing till the 8th ; when we could no longer perceive any at all. During the 4th and 5th, we continued our courfe to the Thurfday^ South Eafl, having very unfettled weather, attended with Fnday 5* much lightning and rain. On both days we paffed great quantities of pumice flone, feveral pieces of which we took , up and found to weigh from one ounce to three pounds. We conjectured that thefe flones had been thrown into the fea, by eruptions of various dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. At the fame time, wc faw two wild ducks, and feveral fmall land birds, and had many porpuffes playing round us. On the 6th, at day-light, we altered our courfe to the Saturday c. South South Wefl; but at eight in the evening, we were taken back, and obliged to fleer to the South Eafl. On the 7th, at noon, we faw a fmall land bird, our latitude, by Sunday? obfervation at this this time, being 33* 52', and longitude 148° 43'. On the 9th, we were in latitude 310 46', longitude Tuefday 9. 1460 20', when wc again faw a fmall land bird, a tropic bird, porpuffes, flying fillies, and had a great fwcil from the Eafl South Eafl. We continued our courfe to the South Wefl, having the winds from the Northward, without any 1 remarkable 4.o3 A V O Y A G E T O 1779; remarkable occurrence, till the 12th, when we had a moll November. ^rrp——' violent gale of wind from the fame quarter, which reduced n ay ,2' us to the fore-fail, and mizen flay-fail; and, as the weather was fo hazy, that we were not able to fee a cable's length before us, and many fhoals and fmall iflands are laid down in our charts, in this part of the ocean, we brought to, with our heads to the South Wefl. At noon, the latitude, by account, was 270 36', longitude 1440 25'. In the morning of Saturday 13. tne 13th, the wind fhifting round to the North Weft, brought with it fair weather; but though we were at this time nearly in the fituation given to the ifland of St. Juan, we faw no appearance of land. We now bore away to the South Weft, and fet the top-fails, the gale flill continuing with great violence. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 26* o', longitude 143° 40', and variation 3* 50' Eaft. In the afternoon, we faw flying fifh, and dolphins, alfo tropic birds, and albatroffes. We ftill continued to pafs much pumice flone : indeed, the prodigious quantities of this fub-fiancc, which float in the fea, between Japan and the Bafhee Iflands, feem to indicate, that fome great volcanic convul-fion muft have happened in this part of the Pacific Ocean; and, confequently, give fome degree of probability to the opinion of Mr. Muller, which I have already had occafion to mention, refpecting the feparation of the continent of Jefo, and the difappearance of Company's Land, and Statcn Maud. At fix in the afternoon, we altered our courfe to the Weft South Weft, Captain Gore judging it ufelefs to fleer any longer to the South South Weft, as we were near the meridian of the Ladrones, or Marianne Iflands, and at no great diflance from Sunday 14 ihe track of the Manilla fhips. In the morning of the 14th, the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 40c the weather became fine, and the wind, which was mode- _ 1779« November. rate, gradually drifted to the North Ealf, and proved to be L— the trade wind. At ten, Mr. Trevencn, one of the young gentlemen who came along with me into the Difcovery, faw land appearing, like a peaked mountain, and bearing South Weft. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 240 37', longitude 1420 2'. The land, which wre now difcovered to be an ifland, bore South Wefl half Well, diflant eight or ten leagues; and at two in the afternoon, we faw another to the Well North Well. This fecond ifland, when feen at a diftance, has the appearance of two; the South point confifting of a high conical hill, joined by a narrow neck to the Northern land, which is of a moderate height. As this was evidently of greater extent than the ifland to the South, we altered our courfe toward it. At four, it bore North Weft by Weft ; but, not having day light fuflicient to examine the coaft, wc flood upon our tacks during the night. On the 15th, at fix. in the morning, wc bore away for the Monday 15. South point of the larger ifland, at which time we difcovered another high ifland, bearing North three quarters Weft, the South ifland being on the fame rhomb line, and the South point of the ifland ahead, Weft by North. At nine, we were abrcaft, and within a mile of the middle ifland, but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without fome danger from the great furf that broke on the more, kept on his courfe to the Weftward. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 240 50', longitude 140* 56' Eaft. This ifland is about five miles long, in a North North Eaft, and South South Weft direction. The South point is Vol. III. 3 G a high '779; a high barren hill, flattifh at the top, and when feen from November. 0 * u., -v—the Well South Weft, prefents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or fand, for it was not eafy to diftinguifh of which its furface is compofed, exhibited various colours, and a confiderable part we conjectured to be fulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and the flrong fulphureous fmell which we perceived, as we approached the point. Some of the officers on board the Refolution, which paffed nearer the land, thought they faw fleams rifing from the top of the hill. From thefe circumflances, Captain Gore gave it the name of Sulphur Ifland. A low, narrow, neck of land connects this hill with the South end of the ifland, which fpreads out into a circumference of three or four leagues, and is of a moderate height. The part near the iflhmus has fome bufhes on it, and has a green appearance, but thofe to the North Eaft are very barren, and full of large detached rocks, many of which were exceedingly white. Very dangerous breakers extend two miles and a half to the Eaft, and two miles to the Weft off the middle part of the ifland, on which the fea broke with great violence. The North and South iflands appeared to us as fingle mountains, of a confiderable height; the former peaked, and of a conical fhape; the latter more fquare and flat at the top. Sulphur Ifland we place in latitude 240 48', longitude 1410 12'. The North ifland in latitude 25* 14', longitude 141° 10'. The South ifland in latitude 240 22', and longitude 141° 20'. The variation obferved was 30 30' Eaft. Captain Gore now directed his courfe to the Weft South Weft, for the Bafhee Iflands, hoping to procure, at them, fuch THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 411 fuch a fupply of refrelhments as would help to fhorten his _ "779» rr J 1 November. flay in Macao. Thefe iflands were vifited by Dampier, «---* who gives a very favourable account, both of the civility of the inhabitants, and of the plenty of hogs and vegetables, with which the country abounds: they were afterward feen by Byron and Wallis, who paffed them without landing. In order to extend our view in the day time, the fhips fpread between two and three leagues from each other, and during the night, we went under an eafy fail; fo that it was fcarcely poflible to pafs any land that lay in the neighbourhood of our courfe. In this manner we proceeded, without any occurrence worth remarking, with a frelh breeze from the North Eafl, till the 22d, when it in- Monday22; creafed to a flrong gale, with violent fqualls of wind and rain, which brought us under clofe reefed top-fails. At noon of the 23d, the latitude, by account, was 210/, Tuefday zy. and longitude 1230 20'; at fix in the evening, being now only twenty-one leagues from the Bafhee iflands, according to the fituation in Mr. Dalrymple's map, and the weather fqually attended with a thick haze, we hauled our wind to the North North Weft, and handed the fore top-fail. During the whole of the 34th it rained inceffantly, and Wednef.24. the wind ftill blew a ftorm; a heavy fea rolled down on us from the North, and in the afternoon we had violent flaihes of lightning from the fame quarter. Wc continued upon a wind to the North North Weft till nine o'clock, when wc tacked, and flood to the South South Eaft, till four in the morning of the 25th, and then wore. During the night, Thurfdayas-there was an eclipfe of the moon, but the rain prevented 3 G 2 our our making any obfervation ; unfortunately, at the time of the greateft clarkncfs, a feaman, in flowing the main top-mafl flay-fail, fell overboard, but laying hold of a rope, which providentially was hanging out of the fore-chains into the water, and the fhip being quickly brought in the wind, he was got on board without any other hurt than a flight bruife on his fhoulder. At eight, the weather clearing, we bore away, but the wind blew flill fo flrong, that we carried no other fail than the fore-fail, and the main top-fail clofe reeft. About this time we faw a land bird refembling a thrufh, and a fugar cane; at noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 210 35', and longitude 1210 35'. As our fituation in longitude was now to the Wefl of the Bafhee, according to Mr. Dalrymple's maps, I perceived that Captain Gore was governed, in the courfe he was fleering, by the opinions of Commodore Byron and Captain Wallis, with whom he failed when they paffed thefe iflands. The former placing it near four degrees to the Weflward, or in longitude n3° 14'. In confequence of this opinion, at two, we flood to the Southward, with a view of getting into the fame parallel of latitude with the iflands, before we ran down our longitude. At fix, wc were nearly in that fituation, and consequently ought to have been in fight of land, according to Mr. Wajlis's account, who places the Bafliees near three degrees more to the Eaflward than Mr. Byron. The gale, at this time, had not in the leafl abated j and Captain Gore, flill conceiving that the iflands mufl undoubtedly lie to the Weflward, brought the fhips to, with their heads to the North Wefl, under the fore-fail and baU lanced mizen. At At fix in the morning of the 26th, the wind having con- *7jj* fiderably abated, we bore away Weft; fet the top-fails, and ^^-^ let out the reefs. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation^ Fnday z6' was 21° 12', and longitude 120° 25'. We faw, this day, a flock of ducks, and many tropic birds, alfo dolphins and porpuffes, and ftill continued to pafs feveral pumice flones. We fpent the night upon our tacks, and, at fix in the morning of the 27th, again bore away Weft in fearch of the Saturdays Balhees. I now began to be a little apprehenfive, left in fearching-for thofe iflands, we fhould get fo much to the Southward as to be obliged to pafs to leeward of the Pratas. In this cafe, it might have been exceedingly difficult for fuch bad failing fhips as ours to fetch Macao, particularly fhould the wind continue to blow, as it now did, from the North North Eaft and North. As I had fome doubts whether Mr. Dalrymple's charts were on board the Refolution, I made fail and hailed her; and having acquainted Captain Gore with the pofition of thefe fhoals, and my apprehenfions of being driven to the Southward, he informed me that he fhould continue on his courfe for the day, as he was ftill in hopes of finding Admiral Byron's longitude right; and therefore ordered me to, fpread a few miles to the South, At noon, the weather became hazy ; the latitude, by reckoning, was 21° 2', and longitude 11B0 30'; and at fix, having got to the Weftward of the Bafhees, by Mr. Byron's account, Captain Gore hauled his wind to the North Weft, under an eafy fail, the wind blowing very flrong, and there being every appearance of a dirty boiftcrous night. At four in the morning of the 28th, we faw the Refolution, then Sun%2s. half a mile ahead of us, wear, and immediately perceived breakers l779; breakers clofe under our lee. At day-light, we faw the November. . v-—ifland of Prata; and at half pafl fix we wore again, and flood toward the fhoal, and finding we could not weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As we paffed the South fide, within a mile of the reef, we obferved two remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. At noon, the latitude found by double altitudes was 200 39', longitude 116° 45'. The ifland bore North three quarters Eafl, diflant three or four leagues. On the South Wefl fide of the reef, and near the South end of the ifland, we thought we faw, from the mail head, openings in the reef, which promifed fafe anchorage. The Prata fhoal is of a confiderable extent, being fix leagues from North to South, and flretching three or four leagues to the Eaflward of the ifland; its limit to the Weftward we were not in a fituation to determine. The North Eafl extremity we place in latitude 200 58', and longitude 1170; and the South Wefl in latitude 200 45', and longitude 116° 44'. For the remaining part of the day we carried a prefs of fail, and kept the wind, which was North Eafl by North, in order to fecure our paffage to Macao. It was fortunate, that toward evening the wind favoured us, by changing two points more to the Eafl; for had the wind and weather continued the fame as during the preceding week, I doubt whether we could have fetched that port, in which cafe we muft have born away for Batavia; a place we all dreaded exceedingly, from the fad havoc the unhcalthinefs of the climate had made in the crews of the former fhips that had been out on difcovery, and had touched there. In In the forenoon of the 29th, we paffed feveral Chinefe fifh- XT !779- November. ing boats, who eyed us with great indifference. They fifh 1--j with a large dredge-net, fhaped like a hollow cone, having Monday 29* a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its mouth. The net is made faff with cords to the head and flern of the boar, which being left to drive with the wind, draws the net after it, with the iron part dragging along the bottom. We were forry to find the fea covered with the wrecks of boats that had been loft, as we conjectured, in the late boifterous weather. At noon, we were in latitude, by obfervation, 22* i', having run one hundred and ten miles upon a North Weft courfe fince the preceding noon. Being now nearly in the ' latitude of the Lema Iflands, we bore away Weft by North,, and, after running twenty-two miles, faw one of them nine or ten leagues to the Weftward. At fix, the extremes of the iflands in fight bore North North Wefl half Wefl, and Weft North Weft half Weft; diftant from the neareft four or five leagues; the depth of water twenty-two fathoms, over a foft muddy bottom. We now fhortened fail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. By Mr, Bayly's time-keeper, the Grand Lema bore from the Prata Ifland, North 6o° Weft, one hundred and fifty-three miles ; and by our run, North 5/ Weft, one hundred and forty-fix miles. In the morning of the 30th, we ran along the Lema Ifles, Tuefday 3c* which, like all the other iflands on this coaft, are without wood, and, as far as we could obferve, without cultivation. At feven o'clock, we had precifely the fame view of thefe iflands, as is reprefented in a plate of Lord Anfon's voyage. At nine o'clock, a Chinefe boat, which had been before with the Refolution, came along-fide, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which however we declined, as it was 4 our our bufmefs to follow our confort. We foon after patted the rock marked R, in Lord Anfon's Plate; but, inflead of hauling up to the Northward of the grand Ladrone Ifland, as was done in the Centurion, wc proceeded to leeward. It is hardly necelTary to caution the mariner not to take this courfe, as the danger is fufliciently obvious ; for fhould the wind blow flrong, and the current fet with it, it will be extremely difficult to fetch Macao. Indeed we might, with great fafety, by the direction of Mr. Dalrymplc's map, have gone either intirely to the North of the Lema iflcs, or between them, and made the wind fair for Macao. Our fears of miffing this port, and being forced to Batavia, added to the flrong and eager defires of hearing news from Europe, made us rejoice to fee the Refolution foon after fire a gun, and hoifl her colours as a fignal for a pilot. On repeating the fignal, we law an excellent race between four Chinefe boats ; and Captain Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived firfl, to carry the fhip to the Typa, for thirty dollars, ferft me word, that, as we#could eafily follow, that expence might be faved to us. Soon after, a fecond pilot getting on board the Refolution, infilled on conducting the fhip, andV^vithout further ceremony, laid hold of the wheel, and began to order the fails to be trimmed. This occafioned a violent difpute, which at lafl was compro-mifed, by their agreeing to go fhares in the money. At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was 21° 57' North, and longitude 1140 2' Eafl; the grand Ladrone ifland extending from North Wefl half North, to North half Weft, diftant four miles. The land of which the bearings are here given, we conceived to be one ifland; but afterward found the Weflern part to be the ifland marked z in Mr. Dalrymple's 6 chart chart of part of the coafl of China, &c. which, at that time, we unfortunately had not on board. < In obedience to the inflructions given to Captain Cook by the Board of Admiralty, it now became neceffary to demand of the officers and men their Journals, and what other papers they might have in their poffcflion, relating to the hiflory of our voyage. The execution of thefe orders feemed to require fome delicacy, as well as firmnefs. I « could not be ignorant, that the greateft part of our officers, and feveral of the feamen, had amufed themfelves with writing accounts of our proceedings for their own private fatisfaction, or that of their friends, which they might be unwilling, in their prefent form, to have fubmitted to the infpection of flrangers. On the other hand, I could not, confiflently with the inftructions we had received, leave in their cuilody papers, which, either from careleffnefs or de-fign, might fall into the hands of printers, and give rife to fpurious and imperfect accounts of the voyage, to the dif-credit of our labours, and perhaps to the prejudice of officers, who, though innocent, might be fufpected of having been the authors of fuch publications. As foon, therefore, as I had affembled the1 fhip's company on deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, and the reafons which, I thought, ought to induce them to yield a ready obedience. At the fame time, I told them, that any papers which they were defirous not to have fent to the Admiralty, fhould be fealcd up in their prefence, and kept in my own cuilody, till the intentions of the Board, with regard to the publication of the Hiflory of the Voyage, were fulfilled; after which, they fhould faithfully be rc-ftored back to them. Vol. III. 3 H It It is with the greateft fatisfaction I can relate, that my propofals met with the approbation, and the cheerful compliance both of the officers and men; and I am perfuaded, that every fcrap of paper, containing any tranfactions relating to the voyage, were given up. Indeed it is doing bare juftice to the feamen of this fhip to declare, that they were the moft obedient, and the belt, difpofed men I ever knew, though almofl all of them were very young, and had never before ferved in a fhip of war. CHAP. CHAP. IX. Working up to Macao.—A Chinefe Comprador.—Sent on Shore to vifit the Portugueze Governor.—Effe&s of the Intelligence we received from Europe.—Anchor in ti'je a.—Pajfage up to Ca7?ton.—Bocca lygris.—TVampiu —Defcription of a Sampane.— Reception at the Engli/h Fatlory.—Injia?tce of the fufpicious Chara&er of the Chinefe.—Of their Mode of trading,—Of the City of Canton.—Its Size.—Population.—Number of Sam-panes.—Military Force,—Of the Streets and Floufes. —Vifit to a Chinefe.—Return to Macao.—Great Demand for the Sea-otter Skins.—Plan of a Voyage for opening a Fur Trade on the Weftern Coaft of America, and profecuting further Difcoveries in the Neighbourhood of Japan.—Departure from Macao.—Price of Provifions in China. ^ITJE kept working to windward till fix in the evening, NJJ^*er w V when we came to anchor, by the direction of the '—->-' Tuefday 30. Chinefe pilot on board the Refolution, who imagined the tide was fetting againft us. In this, however, he was much deceived; as we found, upon making the experiment, that it fee to the Northward till ten o'clock. The next morn- December, ing he fell into a fimilar miltake ; for, at five, on the ap- Wedncf-pearancc of Hack water, he gave orders to get under way; but the ignorance he had difcovered, having put us on our 3 II 2 guard, 1779; euard, we chofe to be convinced, by our own obfervations, December. 0 . 1-v-' before we weighed; and, on trying the tide, we round a flrong under-tow, which obliged us to keep fall till eleven o'clock. From thefe circumflances it appears, that the tide had run down twelve hours. During the afternoon, we kept flanding on our tacks, between the ifland of Potoe, and the Grand Ladrone, having paffed to the Eaflward of the former. At nine o'clock, the tide beginning to ebb, we again came to'anchor in fix fathoms water j the town of Macao bearing North Wefl, three leagues diflant; and the ifland of Potoe South half Wefl, two leagues diflant. This ifland lies two leagues to the North North Wefl of the ifland marked Z in Mr. Dal-rymple's chart, which we, at firfl, took to be part of the Grand Ladrone. It is fmall and rocky j and off the Wefl end there is faid to be foul ground, though we paffed near it without perceiving any. Thurfdayz. In the forenoon of the 2d, one of the Chinefe contractors, who are called Compradors, went on board the Refolution, and fold to Captain Gore two hundred pounds weight of beef, to* gcthcr with a confiderable quantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. A proportionable fhare of thefe articles was fent to the Difcovery; and an agreement made with the man to furnifh us with a daily fupply, for which, however, he infilled on being paid before-hand. Our pilot, pretending he could carry the fhips no farther, Captain Gore was obliged to difcharge him, and we wer^e left to our own guidance* At two in the afternoon, the tide flowing, we weighed, and worked to windward; and, at feven, anchored in three 3 and and a half fathoms of water, Macao bearing Weft, three miles diftant. This fituation was, indeed, very ineligible, y,_^ being expofed to the North Eaft, and having fhoal water, not more than two fathoms and a half deep, to leeward > but as no nautical defcription is given in Lord Anfon's voyage of the harbour in which the Centurion anchored, and Mr. Dalrymple's general map, which was the only one on board, was on too fmall a fcale to ferve for our direction, the mips were obliged to remain there all night. In the evening, Captain Gore fent me on fhore to vifit the Portugueze Governor, and to requeft his afliffance in procuring refrefhments for our crews, which he thought might be done on more reafonable terms than the Comprador would undertake to furnifh them. At the fame time, I took a lift of the naval flores, of which both veffels were greatly in want, with an intention of proceeding immediately to Canton, and applying to the fervants of the Eaft India Company, who were, at that time, refident there. On my arrival at the citadel, the fort-major informed me, that the Governor was fick, and not able to fee company; but that we might be affured of receiving every alliftance in their power. This, however, I undcrftood would be very incon-fiderable, as they were intirely dependent on the Chinefe, even for their daily fubfiftence. Indeed, the anfwer returned to the firft requeft I made, gave me a fuflicient proof of the fallen ftate of the Portugueze power; for, on my acquainting the Major with my defire of proceeding immediately to Canton, he told me, that they could not venture to furnifh me with a boat, till leave was obtained from the lloppo, or officer of the cuftoms ; and that the application for this purp°fe muft be made to the Chinefe government at Canton.. Tlvr The mortification I felt at meeting with this unexpected delay, could only be equalled by the extreme impatience with which we had fo long waited for an opportunity of receiving intelligence from Europe. It often happens, that in the eager purfuit of an object, we overlook the eafiefl and mofl obvious means of attaining it. This was actually my cafe at prefent •, for I was returning under great dejection to the fhip, when the Portugueze officer, who attended mc, allied mc, if I did not mean to vifit the Englilh gentlemen at Macao. I need not add with what tranfport I received the information this queftion conveyed to me; nor the anxious hopes and fears, the conflict between curiofity and apprehenfion, which palled in my mind, as we walked toward the houfe of one of our countrymen. In this ftate of agitation, it was not furprifing, that our reception, though no way deficient in civility or kindnefs, fhould appear cold and formal. In our inquiries, as far as they related to objects of private concern, we met, as was indeed to be expected, with little or no fatisfaction ; but the events of a public nature, which had happened fince our departure, and now, for the firft time, burfl all at once upon us, overwhelmed every other feeling, and left us, for fome time, almofl without-the power of reflection. For feveral days we continued qucftioning each other about the truth of what we had heard, as if defirous of leeking, in doubt and fufpencc, for that relief and confolation, which the reality of our Calamities appeared totally to exclude. Thefe fenfations were fucccedcd by the mofl poignant regret at finding ourfelvcs cut off, at fuch a diflance, from the fcene, where, we imagined, the fate of fleets and armies was every moment deciding. The The intelligence we had juft received of the ftate of af- „ '779- . ^ Decerns fairs in Europe, made us the more exceedingly anxious to 1-w—. hallen our departure as much as poiliblc; and I, therefore, renewed my -attempt to procure a paiTage to Canton, hue without effect. The difficulty arifing from the eftablifhed policy of the country, I was now told, would probably be much increafed by an incident that had happened a few weeks before our arrival. Captain Pan ton, in the Seahorfc, a fhip of war of twenty-five guns, had been fent from Madras, to urge the payment of a debt owing by the Chinefe merchants of Canton to private Britifh fubjeets in the Eail Indies and Europe, which, including the principal and compound intcreft, amounted, I underftood, to near a million fterling. For this purpofe, he had orders to infill on an audience with the Viceroy of Canton, which, after fome delay, and not without re courfe being had to threats, was, at length, obtained. The anfwer he received, on the fubject of his million, was fair and fatisfactory ; bur, immediately after his departure, an edict was fluck up on the houfes of the Europeans and in the public places of the city, forbidding all foreigners, on any pretence, to lend money to the fubjects of the emperor. This meafure had occafioned very ferious alarms at Canton. The Chinefe merchants, who had incurred the debt, contrary to the commercial laws of their own country, and denied, in part, the juftice of the demand, Were afraid that intelligence of this would be carried to Pekin ; and that the Emperor, who has the character of a juft and rigid prince, might punifh them with the lofs of their fortunes, if not of their lives. On the other hand, the Select Committee, to whom the caufe of the claimants was ftrongly recommended by the Prefidency of Madras, were extremely ap~ | prehenfive, "779- prehcnfrve. left they mould embroil themfelves with the December. 1 J «-w-' Chinefe government at Canton ; and, by that means, bring, perhaps, irreparable mifchief on the Company's affairs in China. For I was further informed, that the Mandarines were always ready to take occafion, even on the flighted grounds, to put a flop to their trading; and that it was often with great difficulty, and never without certain ex-pence, that they could get fuch reftraints taken off. Thefe impofitions were daily increafing ; and, indeed, I found it a prevailing opinion, in all the European factories, that they fhould foon be reduced either to quit the commerce of that country, or to bear the fame indignities to which the Dutch arc fubjected in Japan. The arrival of the Refolution and Difcovery, at fuch a time, could not fail of occafioning frefh alarms; and, therefore, finding there was no probability of my proceeding to Canton, I difpatched a letter to the Englifli fupcr-cargoes, to acquaint them with the caufe of our putting into the Tygris, to requeft their affiflance in procuring me a palfport, and in forwarding the flores we wanted, of which I fent them a lift, as expeditioufly as pofliblc. Friday 3. The next morning I was accompanied on board by our countryman, who pointing out to us the fituation of the Typa ; we weighed at half paft fix, and flood toward it; but the wind failing, we came to, at eight, in three and a half fathoms water; Macao, bearing Weft North Weil, three miles diftant; the Grand Ladrone South Eaft by South. The Refolution here faluted the-Portugueze fort with eleven guns, which were returned by the fame number. Early on Saturday 4. the 4th, we again weighed, and flood into the Typa, and moored with the flream anchor and cable to the Weflward. The The Comprador, whom we at firft engaged with, having D difappeared with a fmall fum of money, which had been ^—* given him to purchafe provifions, wc contracted with another, who continued to fupply both fhips, during our whole ftay. This was done fecretly, and in the night time, under pretence, that it was contrary to the regulations of the port; but we fufpected all this caution to have been ufed with a view either of enhancing the price of the articles he f urnifhed, or of fecuring to himfelf the profits of his employment, without being obliged to fhare them with the Mandarines. On the 9th, Captain Gore received an anfwer from the Thurfday9. Committee of the Englifh Supercargoes at Canton, in which they affured him, that their bed endeavours fhould be ufed to procure the fupplies we flood in need of, as expeditioufly as poflible ; and that a paffport fhould be fent for one of his officers, hoping, at the fame time, that wc were fufliciently acquainted with the character of the Chinefe Government, to attribute any delays, that might unavoidably happen, to their true caufe. The day following, an Englifh merchant, from one of our Friday 10, fcttlements in the Eaft-Indies, applied to Captain Gore for the affiflance of a few hands to navigate a veffel he had purchafed at Macao, up to Canton. Captain Gore judging this a good opportunity for me to proceed to that place, gave orders that I fhould take along with me my Second Lieutenant, the Lieutenant of marines, and ten feamcn. Though this was not precifely the mode in which I could have wifhed to vifit Canton, yet as it was very uncertain when the paffport might arrive, and my prefence might contribute materially to the expediting of our fupplies, I did not hefitate to put myfelf on board, having left orders with Mr. Vol. III. 3 I Williamfon, Williamfon, to get the Difcovery ready for fea as foon as poflible, and to make fuch additions and alterations in her upper works, as might contribute to make her more defensible. That the feries of our ailronomical obfervations might fuffer no interruption by my abfence, I intruded the care of continuing them to Mr. Trevenen, in whofe abilities and diligence I could repofe an intire confidence. We left the harbour of Macao on the nth of December, and failing round the South Eadern extremity of the ifland, we decred to the Northward, leaving, as we pafTed along, Lantao Lintin, and feveral fmaller iflands, to the right. All thefe iflands, as well as that of Macao, which lie to the left, are intirely without wood j the land is high and barren, and uninhabited, except occafionally by nfhermen. As we approached the Bocca Tygris, which is thirteen leagues from Macao, the Chinefe coad appears to the Eadward in fleep white cliffs; the two forts, commanding the mouth of the river, are exactly in the fame date as when Lord Anfon was here ; that on the left is a fine old caftlc, furrounded by a grove of trees, and has an agreeable romantic appearance. We were here vifitcd by an ofliccr of the cudoms ; on which occafion the owner of the veffel, being apprehenfive that, if we were difcovered on board, it would occafion fome alarm, and might be attended with difagreeable confe-quenccs, begged us to retire into the cabin below. The breadth of the river above thefe forts is variable, the banks being low and dat, and fubject to be overflowed by the tide to a great extent. The ground on each fide is leveh and laid out in rice fields; but as we advanced, it rofe gradually into hills of confiderable declivity, the fides of which are are cut into terraces, and planted with fweet potatoes, fugar- w& * December. canes, yams, plantains, and the cotton-tree. We faw many 1-' lofty pagodas, fcattered over the country, and feveral towns at a diflance, fome of which appeared to be of a confiderable fize. We did not arrive at Wampu, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca Tygris, till the 18th, our progrefs having Saturday is. been retarded by contrary winds, and the lightnefs of the veffel. Wampii is a fmall Chinefe town, off which the fhips of the different nations, who trade here, lie, in order to take in their lading. The river, higher up, is faid by M. Sonnerat not to be deep enough to admit heavy laden veffels, even if the policy of the Chinefe had fullered the Europeans to navigate them up to Canton; but this circum-flancc I cannot take upon me to decide on, as no flranger, I believe, has been permitted to inform himfelf with certainty of the truth. The fmall iflands, that lie oppofite to the town, are allotted to the feveral factories, who have built warehoufes for the reception of the merchandize that is brought down from Canton. From Wampu, I immediately proceeded in a fampane, or Chinefe boat, to Canton, which is about two leagues and a half higher up the river. Thefe boats are the neatefl and mofl convenient for pafTcngers I ever faw. They are of various fizes, almofl flat at the bottom, very broad upon the beam, and narrow at the head and flern, which are raifed and ornamented; the middle, where we fat, was arched over with a roof of bamboo, which may be raifed or lowered at plcafure; in the fides were fmall v/indows with mutters, and the apartment was furnifhed with handfome mats, chairs, and tables. In the flern was placed a fmall 3 I 2 waxen waxen idol, in a cafe of gilt leather, before which (food a pot containing lighted tapers made of dry chips, or matches, and gum. The hire of this boat was a Spanifh dollar. I reached Canton a little after it was dark, and landed at the Englifh factory, where, though my arrival was very unexpected, I was received with every mark of attention and civility. The Select Committee, at this time, confifled of Mr. Fitzhugh the Prefident, Mr. Bevan and Mr. Rapier. They immediately gave me an account of fuch flores as the India fhips were able to afford us ; and though I have not the fmallefl doubt, that the Commanders were defirous of aflifling us with every thing they could fpare, confidently with a regard to their own fafety, and the intered of their employers, yet it was a great difappointment to me to find in their lid fcarcely any articles of cordage or canvafs, of both which wc dood principally in need. It was, however, fome confolation to underdand, that the dores were in readinefs for fhipping, and that the provifions wc required might be had at a day's notice. Wifhing therefore to make my day here as fhort as poflible, I requeded the gentlemen to procure junks or boats for me the next day, with an intention of leaving Canton the following one; but I was foon informed, that a buunefs of that kind was not to be tranfacted fo rapidly in this country; that leave mud be firfl procured from the Viceroy ; that the Hoppo, or principal officer of the cudoms mud be applied to for chops, or permits ; and that thefe favours were not granted without mature deliberation; in fhort, that patience was an indifpenfable virtue in China ; and that they hoped to have the pleafure of making the factory agreeable to me, for a few days longer than I feemed willing to favour them with my company. Though Though I was not much difpofcd to relifh this compliment, yet I could not help being diverted with an incident that occurred very opportunely to convince me of the truth of their representations, and of the fufpicious character of the Chinefe. The reader will recollect, that it was now about fifteen days fince Captain Gore had written to the factory, to defire their affiflance in procuring leave for one of his officers to pafs to Canton. In confequence of this application, they had engaged one of the principal Chinefe merchants of the place, to intereil himfelf in our favour, and to folicit the bufinefs with the Viceroy. This perfon came to vifit the Prcfident, whilft we were talking on the fubject, and with great fatisfaction and complacency in his countenance acquainted him, that he had at laft fuccecded in his applications, and that a paffport for one of the officers of the Ladrone fhip (or pirate) would be ready in a few days. The Prefident immediately told him not to give himfelf any farther trouble, as the officer, pointing to me, was already arrived. It is impoffible to defcribe the terror, which feized the old man on hearing this intelligence. His head funk upon his brcaft, and the fofa on which he was fitting fhook, from the violence of his agitation. Whether the Ladrone fhip was the object of his apprehenfions, or his own government, I could not difcover; but after continuing in this deplorable ftate a few minutes, Mr, Bevan bade him not de-fpair, and recounted to him the manner in which 1 had palfed from Macao, the reafons of my journey to Canton, and my wifhes to leave it as foon as poffible. This laft circumftance feemed particularly agreeable to him, and gave me hopes, that I fhould find him equally difpofcd to haften my departure ; and yet, as foon as he had recovered the courage to fpeak, he began to recount the unavoidable delays that s would „ x779- would occur in my bufmefs, the difficulty of gaining admit- December. J - . . . v.**w—> tance to the Viceroy, the jealoufies and fufpicions of the Mandarines, refpecting our real deligns, which had rifen, he faid, to an extraordinary height, from the flrange account we had given of ourfelvcs. After waiting feveral days, with great impatience, for the event of our application, without undcrftanding that the matter was at all advanced toward a conclufion, I applied to the Commander of an Englifh country fhip, who was to fail on the 25th, and who offered to take the men and flores on board, and to lie to, if the weather fhould permit, off Macao, till we could fend boats to take them out of his fhip. At the fame time he apprized me of the danger there might be of his being driven with them out to fea. Whilft I was doubting what meafures to purfue, the Commander of another country fhip brought me a letter from Captain Gore, in which he acquainted me, that he had engaged him to bring us down from Canton, and to deliver the flores we had procured, at his own rifk, in the Typa. All our difficulties being thus removed, I had lcifure to attend to the pur-chafe of our provifions and flores, which was completed on the 26th; and the day following, the whole flock was fent on board. As Canton was likely to be the moft advantageous market for furs, I was defired by Captain Gore to carry with me about twenty fea-otters fkins, chiefly the property of our deceafed Commanders, and to difpofc of them at the befl price I could procure ; a commiffion, which gave me an opportunity of becoming a little acquainted with the genius of the Chinefe for trade. Having acquainted fome of the Englifh fupercargoes with thefe circumflances, I defired 2. them them to recommend me to fome Chinefe merchant of credit _ J779- December. and reputation, who would at once offer me a fair and rea- •--r~* fonable price. I was accordingly directed to a member of the Hong, a fociety of the principal merchants of the place, who being fully informed of the nature of the bufincfs, appeared fenfiblc of the delicacy of my fituation; affured me, I might depend on his integrity \ and that, in a cafe of this fort, he fhould confidcr himfelf merely as an agent, without looking for any profit to himfelf. Having laid my goods before him, he examined them with great care, over and over again, and at laft told mc, that he could not venture to offer more than three hundred dollars for them. As I knew from the price our fkins had fold for in Kamtfchatka, that lie had not offered me one half their value, I found myfelf under the neceflity of driving a bargain. In my turn, I therefore demanded one thoufand ; my Chinefe then advanced to five hundred; then offered me a private prefent of tea and porcelain, amounting to one hundred more; then the fame fum in money; and, laflly,rofe to feven hundred dollars, on which I fell to nine hundred. Here, each fide declaring he would not recede, we parted ; but the Chinefe foon returned with a lift of India goods, which he now-' propofed I fhould take in exchange, and which, I was afterward told, would have amounted in value, if honeftly delivered, to double the fum he had before offered. Finding I did not choofe to deal in this mode, he propofed as his ultima* turn, that we fhould divide the difference, which, being tired of the contcft, I confented to, and received the eight hundred dollars. The ill health, which at this time I laboured under, left mc little reafon to lament the very narrow limits, within which the policy of the Chinefe obliges every European at Canton _I779- Canton to confine his curiofity. I mould otherwife have felt December. ' '-exceedingly tantalized with living under the walls of fo great a city, full of objects of novelty, without being able to enter it. The account given of this place by Peres le Comte and Du Halde, are in every one's hand. The authors have lately been accufed of great exaggeration by M. Sonncrat; for which reafon the following obfervations, collected from the information with which I have been obligingly furnifhed by feveral Englifh gentlemen, who were a long time refident at Canton, may not be unacceptable to the Public. Canton, including the old and new town, and the fub-urbs, is about ten miles in circuit. With refpect to its population, if one may judge of the whole, from what is feen in the fuburbs, I mould conceive it to fall confiderably fhort of an European town of the fame magnitude. Le Comte eflimated the number of inhabitants at one million five hundred thoufand ; Du Halde at one million ; and M. Son-nerat fays he has afecrtained them to be no more than feventy-five thoufand •: but, as this gentleman has not favoured us with the grounds on which his calculation was founded j and, befides, appears as defirous of depreciating every thing that relates to the Chinefe, as the Jefuits may be of magnifying, his opinion certainly admits of fome doubt. The following circumflances may perhaps lead the reader to form a judgment with tolerable accuracy on this fubject. * J'ai verifie moi-mcme, avec plufieurs Chinois, ]a population de Canton, de la ville de Tartare, k de celle de Battaux, kc. Voyage aux Jndesy tstc. Par M. Sonncrat, Tom. II. p, 14. A Chinefe A Chinefe houfe, undoubtedly, occupies more fpace than is umally taken up by houfes in Europe : but the proportion fuggefted by M. Sonnerat, of four or five to one, certainly goes much beyond the truth. To this fhould be added, that a great many houfes, in.the fuburbs of Canton, arc occupied, for commercial purpofes only, by merchants and rich tradefmen, whofe families live intirely within the city. On the other hand, a Chinefe family appears to confid, on an average, of more perfons than an European. A Mandarine, according to his rank and fubflance, has from five to twenty wives. A merchant, from three to five. One of this clafs at Canton, had, indeed, twenty-five wives, and thirty-fix children ; but this was mentioned to me as a very extraordinary inflance. An opulent tradefman has ufually two; and the lower clafs of people very rarely more than one. Their fervants are at leatf double in number to thofe employed by perfons of the fame condition in Europe. If, then, we fuppofe a Chinefe family one-third larger, and an European houfe two-thirds lefs, than each other, a Chinefe city will contain only half the number of inhabitants con-rained in a European town of the fame fize. Acccording to thefe data, the city and fuburbs of Canton may probably contain about one hundred and fifty thoufand. With rcfpccl to the number of inhabited Sampancs, I found different opinions were entertained; but none placing them lower than forty thoufand. They are moored in rows clofe to each other, with a narrow paflage, at intervals, for the boats to pafs up and down the river. As the Tygris, at Canton, is fomewhat wider than the Thames, at London; and the whole river is covered in this manner for the extent of at leafl a mile ; this account of their number docs not appear tome, in the leafl, exaggerated; and if it be allowed, Vol. III. 3 K the „ '"79- the number of inhabitants in the Sam panes alone (for each December. 4 tv—~v—t of them contains one family), mull amount to nearly three times the number fuppofed by M. Sonnerat to be in the whole city. The military force of the province, of which Canton is the capital, amounts to fifty thoufand men. It is faid that twenty thoufand are flationed in and about the city; and, as a proof of this, I was affured, that, on the occafion of fome diflurbance that had happened at Canton, thirty thoufand men were drawn together within the fpace of a few hours. The dreets are long, and mofl of them narrow and irregular ; but well paved with large Hones; and, for the mod part, kept exceedingly clean. The houfes are built of brick, one flory high, having generally two or three courts backward, in which are the ware-houfes for merchandize, and, in the houfes within the city, the apartments for the women. A very few of the meaneft fort are built of wood. The houfes belonging to the European factors, are built on an handfome quay, with a regular facade of two flories toward the river, and difpofed, within, partly after the European, and partly after the Chinefe manner. Adjoining to thefe are a number of houfes, belonging to the Chinefe, and hired out to the commanders of fhips, and merchants, who make an occafional Hay. As no European is allowed to bring his wife to Canton, the Englifh fupercargocs live together, at a common table, which is kept by the company, and have each a feparate apartment, confiding of three or four rooms. The time of their refulence feldom exceeds eight months annually; and as they are pretty con-dantly employed, during that time, in the fervice of the company, company, they may fubmit, with the lefs regret, to the re-flraints they are kept under. They very rarely pay any vifits within the walls of Canton, except on public occafions. Indeed, nothing gave me fo unfavourable an idea of the character of the Chinefe, as to find, that amongfl fo many perfons of liberal minds, and amiable manners, fome of whom have refided in that country for near fifteen years together, they have never formed any friendfhip or focial connection. As foon as the lad fTiip quits Wampu, they are all obliged to retire to Macao; but, as a proof of the excellent police of the country, they leave all the money they poffefs ia fpecie behind them, which, I was told, fometimes amounted to one hundred thoufand pounds flerling, and for which they had no other fecurity than the feals of the merchants of the Hong, the viceroy, and Mandarines. During my flay at Canton, I was carried, by one of the Englifh gentlemen, to vifit a perfon of the firfl confequence in the place. We were received in a long room or gallery, at the upper end of which flood a table, with a large chair behind it, and a row of chairs extending from it on each fide down the room. Being previoufly inflructcd, that the point of civility confifled in remaining as long unfeated as poflible, I readily acquitted myfelf of this piece of etiquette; after which we were entertained with tea, and fome prefervcd and frefli fruits. Our hofl was very far, with a heavy dull countenance, and of great gravity in his deportment. He fpoke a little broken Englifh and Portugueze; and, after we had taken our refrefhment, he carried us about his houfe and garden; and having fhewed us all the improvements he was making, we took our leave. 3 K 2 Having „ |779- Having procured an account of the price of provifions at v.—v-^w Canton, as fettled for the year 1780, which the reader will find at the end of this Chapter, I have only to obferve, that the different articles are fuppofed to be the bed of the kind; and that the natives purchafe the fame for nearly one-third lefs than the price, which in the lift is fixed only for flrangcrs. I had hitherto intended, as well to avoid the trouble and delay of applying for paffports, as to favc the unneceffary expence of hiring a Sampane, which I underftood amounted at leafl to twTelve pounds flerling, to go along with the flores to Macao, in the country merchant's fhip I have before mentioned: but having received an invitation from two Englifh gentlemen, who had obtained paffports for four, I accepted, along with Mr. Philips, 'their offer of places in a Chinefe boat, and left Mr, Lannyon to take care of the men and flores, which were to fail the next day. In the evening of Sunday 26. the 26th, I took my leave of the fupercargoes, having thanked them for their many obliging favours ; amongft which I muft not forget to mention an handfome prefent of tea, for the ufe of the fhips companies, and a large collection of Englifh periodical publications. The latter we found a valuable acquifition, as they both ferved to amufe our impatience, during our tedious voyage home, and enabled us to return not total ftrangers to what had been tranfacting in our native country. At one o'clock, the next Monday 27. morning, we left Canton, and arrived at Macao, about the Tuefday 28. _ fame hour the day following, having pailed down a channel, which lies to the Weftward of that by which we had come up. During During our abfcncc, a brifk trade had been carrying on t779; ° jo December. with the Chinefe, for the fea-ottcr fkins, which had, every <-,-» day, been rifing in their value. One of our feamcn fold his flock, alone, for eight hundred dollars ; and a few prime fkins, which were clean, and had been well prefervcd, were fold for one hundred and twenty each. The whole amount of the value, in fpecie and goods, that was got for the furs, in both fhips, I am confident, did not fall fhort of two thoufand pounds flerling; and it was generally fuppofed, that at leafl two-thirds of the quantity we had origi-. nally got from the Americans, were fpoiled and worn our, or had been given away, and othcrwife difpofcd of, in Kamtfchatka. When, in addition to thefe facts, it is remembered, that the furs were, at firfl, collected without our having any idea of their real value ; that the greateft part had been worn by the Indians, from whom wc purchafed them; that they were afterward prefcrved with lit, tie care, and frequently ufed for bed-clothes, and other purpofes, during our cruize to the North ; and that, probably, we had never got the full value for them in China ; the advantages that might be derived from a voyage to that part of the American coaft, undertaken with commercial views, appear to mc of a degree of importance fuflicient to call for the attention of the Public. The rage with which our feamcn were poflfefled to return to Cook's River, and, by another cargo of fkins, to make their fortunes, at one time, was not far fhort of mutiny; and I mull own, I could not help indulging myfelf in a project, which the difappointment we had fullered", in being obliged to leave the Japanefe Archipelago, and the Northern coaft of China unexplored, firft fuggefted*; and, by what I conceived, that object might ftill be happily accomplished,. 3 through December. tlirough means of the Eaft-India Company, not only with-^—v—^ out expence, but even with the profpeel: of very confiderable advantages. Though the fituation of affairs at home, or perhaps greater difficulties in the execution of my fcheme than I had fore feen, have hitherto prevented its being carried into effect, yet, as I find the plan in my journal, and Hill retain my partiality for it, 1 hope it will not be intircly foreign to the nature of this Work, if I beg leave to infert it here. I propofed then, that the Company's China fhips fhould carry an additional complement of men each, making in all one hundred. Two veffels, one of two hundred and the other of one hundred and fifty tons, might, I was told, with proper notice, be readily purchafed at Canton; and, as victualling is not dearer there than in Europe, I calculate, that they might be completely fitted out for fea, with a year's pay and provifion, for fix thoufand pounds, including the purchafe. The expence of the neceffary articles for barter is fcarcely worth mentioning. I would, by all means, recommend, that each fhip mould have five ton of unwrought iron, a forge, and an expert fmith, with a journeyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forge fuch tools, as it fhould appear the Indians were mofl; defirous of. For .though fix of the fineft fkins purchafed by us, were got for a dozen large green glafs beads, yet it is well known, that the fancy of thefe people for articles of ornament, is exceedingly capricious ; and that iron is the only fure commodity for their market. To this might be added, a few grofs of large pointed cafe-knives, fome bales of coarfe woollen .cloth Jinenthey would not accept of from us), and a barrel {ox two of copper and glafs trinkets. I have ITiavc here propofed two fhips, not only for the greater Dl?7Jfc fecurity of the expedition, but becaufe I think fingle fhips _^ ought never to be fent out on difcoveries. For where rifks are to be run, and doubtful and hazardous experiments tried, it cannot be expected that fingle fhips fhould venture fo far, as where there is fome fecurity provided againft an untoward accident. The veffels being now ready for fea, will fail with the firfl South Wefterly monfoon, which generally fets in about the beginning of April. With this wind they will fleer to the Northward, along the coaft of China, beginning a more accurate furvcy from the mouth of the river Kyana, or the Nankin River, in latitude 300, which I believe is the utmoft limit of this coafl hitherto vifited by European fhips. As the extent of that deep gulf called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, is at prefent unknown, it muft be left to the difcretion of the Commander, to proceed up it as far as he .may judge prudent; but he muft be cautious not to entangle himfelf too far in it, left he fhould want time for the profe-cution of the remaining part of his enter prize. The fame difcretion muft be ufed, when he arrives in the Straits of Tcffoi, with refpect to the iflands of Jefo, which, if the wind and weather be favourable, he will not lofe the opportunity of exploring. Having proceeded to the latitude of 51° 40', where he will make the Southernmoft point of the ifland of Sagaleen, beyond which the fea of Okotfk is fuffiiciently known, he will fleer to the Southward, probably in the beginning of June, and endeavour to fall in with the Southernmoft of the Kurile iflands. Ouroop or Nadefchda, according to the accounts of the Ruflians, will furnifh the fhips with a good 2 harbour, harbour, where they may wood and water, and take in fuch other rcfrefhments as the place may aiTord. Toward the end of June, they will fhape their courfe for the Shum-magins, and from thence to Cook's River, purchafing, as they proceed, as many fkins as they are able, without lofing too much time, fince they ought to fleer again to the Southward, and trace the coafl with great accuracy from the latitude of 56° to 500, the fpace from which we were driven out of fight of land by contrary winds. . It fhould here be remarked, that I confuler the purchafe of fkins, in this expedition, merely as a fecondary object, for defraying the expence ; and it cannot be doubted, from our experience in the prefent voyage, that two hundred and fifty fkins, worth one hundred dollars each, may be procured without any lofs of time; efpecially as it is probable they will be met with along the coafl to the Southward of Cook's River. Having fpent three months on the coafl of America, they will let out on their return to China early in the month of October, avoiding in their route, as much as pofliblc, the tracks of former navigators. 1 have now only to add, that if the fur trade fhould become a fixed object of Indian commerce, frequent opportunities will occur of completing whatever may be left unfinifhed, in the voyage of which I have here ventured to delineate the outlines. The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinefe for our fea-otter fkins, had produced a very whimfical change in the drefs of all our crew. On our arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the younger officers and feamcn ; for, as our voyage had already exceeded, by near a twelvemonth, the time it was at firft imagined we fhould remain at fea, almoft the whole of of our original flock of European clothes had been long D worn out, or patched up with fkins, and the various manufac- 1 tures we had met with in the courfe of our difcoveries. Thefe were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiefl fdks and cottons of China. On the 30th, Mr. Lannyon arrived with the flores and Friday 3*. provifions, which were immediately flowed in due proportion on board the two fhips. The next day, agreeably to a bargain made by Captain Gore, I fent our fheet anchor to the country fhip," and received in return the guns, which fhe before rode by. Whilfl we lay in the Typa, I was fhewn, in a garden belonging to an Englifh gentleman at Macao, the rock, under which, as the tradition there goes, the poet Camoens ufed to fit and compofe his Lufiad. It is a lofty arch, of one folid flone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rifing ground behind it. The rock is overfhadowed by large fpreading trees, and commands an extenfive and magnificent view of the fea, and the interfperfed iflands. On the nth of January, two feamen belonging to the l7*°-Refolution found means to run off with a fix-oared cutter, WeSTi. and notwithflanding diligent fearch was made, both that and the following day, we were never able to learn any tidings of her. It was fuppofed, that thefe people had been feduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune, by returning to the fur iflands. As we heard nothing, during our flay in the Typa, of the meafurement of the fhips, it may be concluded, that the point fo flrongly contefled by the Chinefe, in Lord Anfon's time, has, in confequence of his firmnefs and refolution, never fince been infilled on, Vol. III. 3 L The 17so, fhe folio wing nautical obfervations were made while wc January, 0 i. j lay here t Harbour of Macao, - Lat. 220 12' o" North. Long, 1130 47' o" Eafl. Anchoring-place in the Typa. Lat. 220 9' 20" North. Long. 1130 48' 34" Eafl. Mean dip of the North pole of 7 0 , h the magnetic needle - J Variation of the compafs - - o° 19' o" Weft. On the full and change days it was high water in the Typa at 5* 1 and in Macao harbour at 5* 50". The greater! rife was fix feet one inch. The flood appeared to come from the South Eaflward; but we could not determine this point with certainty, on account of the great number of iflands which lie off the mouth of the river of Canton. Prices of Provifions at Canton, 1780. a fcore. ft J. Ananas 0 4 0 Arrack 0 0 8 Butter 0 2 Beef, Canton 0 0 Ditto, Macao 0 0 5i Birds-ncfts - 3 6 8 Bifcuit 0 0 4 Beache de Mar 0 2 0* Calf 1 6 ft Caravances, dried - 0 0 each. per catty. * A catty is 18 oz. —a pecul 100 catty. Cabbage, Cabbage, Nankeen Curry fluff Coffee Cocoa-nuts Charcoal Coxice Canton nuts Chefnuts Cockles Ducks Ditto, wild Deers finews Eels Eggs Fifh, common Ditto, befl Ditto falted, Nankeen, Fruit Ditto, Nankeen Frogs Flour Fowls, capons, £ft. Fifh maws Geefe Greens Grafs Grapes Ham Hartfhom Hogflard Hog, alive o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o i i o 3 i o o o o i 2 o 2. o o o o 2 o o o 2 o o o i i i o o d. 4 4 4 4 4 4 3^ °i 6t o 9t per catty. each. per pecul. per catty. 1780. January. t-„-9 each. per catty. per hundred. per catty. T 6 7t 4 W 4J per bundlfli per catty. 3L 2 Kid 444 AVOYAGETO 1780. January. £- s. d. Kid, alive , - 0 0 44 per catty. Limes 0 0 <4 Litchis, dried 0 0 Lockfoy 0 0 6* Lobchocks 0 0 Si Lamp oil 0 0 54 Lamp wick 0 0 8 Melons 0 0 44 each. Milk 0 0 it per catty. Ditto, Macao 0 0 34 Muftard feed 0 0 Mufhrooms, pickled 0 2 8 Ditto, frelh 0 i 4 Oyflers 0 3 4 per pecul, Onions, dried 0 0 *4 per catty. Pork 0 0 7f Pig 0 0 54 Paddy 0 0 <4 Pepper 0 1 °4 Pheafants 0 S 4 each. Partridges 0 0 94 Pigeons 0 0 51 Pomegranates 0 0 24 Quails 0 0 li Rabbits 0 1 4 Rice - 0 0 2 per catty. DittOj red - 0 0 Ditto, coarfe 0 0 it Ditto, Japan 0 0 8 Raifins 0 2 0 Sheep - - - 3 6 8 each. d. Snipes o o K per catty. Sturgeon o 4 9t Ditto, fmall o 2 4t Sugar o o 3* Salt o o '4 Saltpetre 0 2 't Soy 0 o Spices 0 16 8 Sweet-meats o o 6$ Sago o 0 34 Sallad - o o *r Sharks fins - 0 2 14 Samfui foy o o 24 Teal o o 64 each. Turtle o o 94 />*r catty.. Tea 0 2 0 Turmerick o 0 2* Tamarinds o o 8 Vinegar 0 0 i4 Vermicelli o o 34 Wax candles 0 3 o Walnuts 0 0 44 Wood o i 4 per pecul. Water o 6 8 per too B\ 1780. January. Rent of Poho Factory 400 o o per annum. -of Lunfoon - 316 13 4 Servants rice - 080 per month. Ditto, wages - o 19 2.* per month for refiants* Servants Doll. Servants wages for? 2Q the feafon - 1 Stewards wages - 80 per annum. Butlers ditto - 80 Prices of Labour. £. s. d. A coolee, or porter - o o 8 per day. A taylor - -005 and rice. A handicraftfman -008 A common labourer, from 3d. xo$d. A woman's labour confiderably cheaper. 1780. January. CHAP CHAP. X. Leave the Typa.—Orders of the Court of France refpeSiing Captain Cook.—Refolutions in confequence thereof.— Strike Soundings on the Macclesfield Banks.—Pafs Pulo Sapata.—Steer for Pulo Condore.—Anchor at Pulo Co?tdore.—Tranjatlions during our Stay.—Journey to the principal Town.—Receive a Vifit from a Mandarin. —Examine his Letters.—Refrefhments to he procured. Defcription, and prefent State of the Jfiand.—Its Produce.—An Ajfertion of M. Sonnerat refuted.—Aflrono-mical and Nautical Obfervations. ON the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, we unmoored, i7so. and fcaled the guns, which, on board my fhip, now t ^""'"y*y amounted to ten ; fo that, by means of four additional ports, iWfiiayi** we could, if occafion required, fight feven on a fide. In like manner, the Refolution had increafed the number of her guns from twelve to fixteen ; and, in both fhips, a flout barricade was carried round their upper works, and every other precaution taken to give our fmall force as refpectable an appearance as poflible. We thought it our duty to provide ourfelves with thefe means of defence, though wc had fome reafon to believe> that the generofity of our enemies had, in a great rneafure, rendered them fuperfluous. We were informed at Canton, that 1780. lnat tne public prints, which had arrived laft from Eng- january. * .* 0 <-,-' land, made mention of inftruclions having been found on board all the French fhips of war, captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in cafe of falling in with the fhips that failed under the command of Captain Cook, to fuffer them to proceed on their voyage without moleftation. The fame orders were alfo faid to have been given by the American congrefs to the veflels employed in their fervice. As this intelligence was farther confirmed by the private letters of feveral of the fupercargoes, Captain Gore thought himfelf bound, in return for the liberal exceptions made in our favour, to refrain from availing himfelf of any opportunities of capture, which thefe might afford, and to preferve, throughout his voyage, the ftricteft neutrality. At two in the afternoon, having got under fail, the Refolution faluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was returned with the fame number. At five, the wind dropping, the fhip miffed flays, and drove into fhallow water ; but, by carrying out an anchor, fhe was hauled off without receiving the fmalleft damage. The weather continuing calm, we were obliged to warp out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock, and Friday 13. }ay there till nine the next morning; when, by the help of a frefli breeze from the Eaft, we flood to the Southward between Potoe and Wungboo. At noon, we were faluted by a Swedifh fhip as fhe paffed us on her way to Europe. At four the Ladrone bore Eaft, diftant two leagues. We now fleered South half Eaft, with a frefh breeze from the Eaft North Eaft, without any occur-Sunday 15. rence worth remarking, till noon of the 15th j when, being 4 in in latitude i8° 57', and longitude 1140 13', the wind veering j^v'y to the North, we directed our courfe half a point more to <—-*--* the Eaflward, in order to ftrike foundings over the Macclef-ficld Bank. This we effected at eight in the evening of the 16th, and found the depth of water to he fifty fathoms, Monday 16. over a bottom of white fand and fhells. This part of the Macclesfied Shoals wc placed in latitude 150 51', and longi, tudcii40qo'; which agrees very exactly with the pofition given in Mr. Dalrymple's map, whofe general accuracy, if it flood in need of any fupport, was confirmed, in this inftance, by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had an opportunity of making every day fince we left the Typa. The variation was found to be, in the forenoon, o° 39' Weft. On the 17th, we had heavy gales from the Eaft by North, Tuefday 17. with a rough tumbling fea, and the weather overcaft and boifterous. On the 18th, the wind ftill continued to blow Wcdncf. 13. flrong, and the fea to run high, we altered our courfe to South Weft by South ; and, at noon, being in latitude 120 34', longitude 132°, we began to fleer a point more to the Weftward for Pulo Sapata, which we faw on the 19th, at four in Thur&ayio, the afternoon, bearing North Weft by Weft, about four leagues diftant. This fmall, high, barren ifland is called Sapata, from its refemblance of a flioc. Our obfervations, compared with Mr. Bayly's time-keeper, place it in latitude io° 4' North, longitude \oc. Le petit Mandarin, porteur de cet e'erit, efl veritablement Envoye de la cour a Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaiileau European qui auroit fa deflination d'ap-procher ici. Le Capitainc, en confequence, pourroit fe fier ou pour conduire le vaiffeau au port, ou pour faire palfer les nouvellcs qu'il pourroit croire ne'eeffaire. A Sai-Gon, PIERRE JOSEPH GEORGE, lod'Aout 1779. v a_ _ i»a 1 1' * Eveque d Adran. We returned the paper, with many proteflations of our being the Mandarin's good friends, begging he might be informed that we hoped he would do us the favour to vifit the fhips, that we might convince him of it. We now took our leave, well fatisfied, on the whole, with what had pafled, but full of conjectures about this extraordinary French paper. Three of the natives offered their fervices to accompany us back, which wc readily accepted, and returned by the way wc came. Captain Gore felt peculiar fatisfaction at feeing us; for, as we had exceeded our time near an hour, he began to be alarmed for our fafety, and was> was preparing to march after us. He and his party hads during our abfence, been profitably employed, in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds in this bay. Our guides were made exceedingly happy, on our prefenting them with a dollar each for their trouble, and intrufling to their care a bottle of rum for the Mandarin. One of them chofe to accompany us on board. At two in the afternoon we joined the mips, and feveral of our mooting parties returned about the fame time from the woods, having had little fuccefs, though they faw a great variety of birds and animals, fome of which will be hereafter noticed. At five, a proa, with fix men, rowed up to the fhip, from the upper end of the harbour, and a decent looking perfon-age introduced himfelf to Captain Gore with an cafe and good breeding, which convinced us his time had been fpent in other company than what this ifland afforded. He brought with him the French paper above tranferibed, and faid he was the Mandarin mentioned in it. He fpoke a few Portugueze words, but as none of us were acquainted with this language, wc were obliged to have rccourfe to a black man on board, who could fpeak the Malay, which is the general language of thefe iflanders, and was underflood by the Mandarin. After a little previous converfation, he declared to us, that he was a Chriilian, and had been baptized by the name of Lucoj that he had been fent hither in Augult lafl, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had fince waited in expectation of fome French fhips, which he was to pilot to a fafe port, not more than a day's fail hence, upon the coafl of Cochin China. We acquainted him, that we were not French, butEnghfh, and afked him, whether whether he did not know, that thefe two nations were now at war with one another. He made anfwer in the affirmative i but, at the fame time, fignified to us, that it was indifferent to him to what nation the fhips he was inftructed to wait for belonged, provided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin China. He here produced another paper, which he defired us to read. This was a letter fealed, and directed " To the Captains of any European velfels that may touch at Condore." Although we apprehended that this letter was defigned for French fhips in particular, yet as the direction included all European Captains, and as Luco was delirous of our perufing it, wc broke the feal, and found it to be written by the Bifhop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were as follows : " That having reafon to expect, by fome late intelligence from Europe, that a veffel would foon come to Cochin China, he had, in confequence of this news, got the Court to fend a Mandarin (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait its arrival; that if the veffel fhould put in there, the Commander might either fend by the bearer an account to him of his arrival, or trufl himfelf to the Mandarin, who would pilot him into a wcll-fhcltercd port in Cochin China, not more than a day's fail from Condore ; that mould he choofe to remain in Condore, till the return of the meffenger, proper interpreters would be fent back, and any other affiflance, which a letter fhould point out, be furnifhed ; that it was unneceffary to be more particular, of which the Captain himfelf muft be fenfible." This letter had the fame date as the certificate, and was returned to Luco again, without any copy being taken. From this letter, and the whole of Luco's convcrfation, there remained little doubt, that it was a French fhip he was to expect j at the fame time we found he would be glad Vol. III. 3 N not i7so. not iQ loft. njs errand, and had no objection to become our January. * ^—j pilot. We could not difcover from the Mandarin, the exact object and bufmefs which the veffel he was waiting for, intended to profecute in Cochin China. It is true, that our interpreter, the black, was extremely dull and flupid, and I fhould therefore be forry, with fuch imperfect means of information, to run the rifk of mifleading the reader by any conjectures of my own, refpecting the object of Luco's vifit to this ifland. I fhall only add, that he told us the French fhips might perhaps have put into Tirnon, and from thence fail to Cochin China; and, as he had received no intelligence of them, he thought this moll likely to have been the cafe. Captain Gore's inquiries were next directed to find out what fupplies could be obtained from the ifland. Luco faid, that he had two buffaloes of his own, which were at our fervice ; and that there were plenty on the ifland, which might be purchafed for four or five dollars a head; but finding that Captain Gore thought that fum exceedingly moderate, and would willingly give for them a much greater, the price was afterward raifed upon us to feven and eight dollars. Sunday 23. Early in the morning of the 23d, the launches of both fhips were fent to the town, to fetch the buffaloes which we had given orders to be purchafed ; but they were obliged to wait, till it was high-water, as they could at no other time get through the opening at the head of the harbour. On their arrival at the village, they found the furf breaking on the beach with fuch force, that it was with the utmolt difficulty each launch brought a buffaloe on board in the evening, and the officers, who were fent on this fervice, gave it as 1 their their opinion, that between the violence of the furf, and Tx78°- r ' ' " . January. the fiercenefs of the buffaloes, it would be extremely irri- v--,---/ prudent to attempt bringing any more off in this way. We had purchafed eight, and were now at a lofs in what manner to proceed to get them on board. We could kill no more than was juft neceffary for the confumption of one day, as in this climate meat will not keep till the next. After confulting with Luco, it was concluded, that the remainder fhould be driven through the wood, and over the hill down to the bay, where Captain Gore and I had landed the day before, which being fheltered from the wind, was more free from furf. This plan was accordingly put in execution; but the untractablenefs and prodigious flrength of the buffaloes, rendered it a tedious and difficult operation. The method of conducting them was, by palling ropes through their noflrils, and round their horns; but having been once enraged at the fight of our men, they became fo furious, that they fometimes broke the trees, to which we were often under the neceflity of tying them; fometimes they tore afunder the cartilage of the noflril, through winch the ropes ran, and got loofe. On thefe oc-cafions, all the exertions of our men, to recover them, would have been ineffectual, without the afllflance of fome young boys, whom thefe animals would permit to approach them, and by whofe little managements their rage was foon ap-peafed. And when, at length, they were got down to the beach, it was by their aid, in twilling ropes round their legs, in the manner they were directed, that we were enabled to throw them down, and by that means to get them into the boats. A circumftance, refpecting thefe animals, which I thought no lefs lingular than this gentlencfs toward, and, as it fhould fcem, affection for little children, 3 N 2 was, 1780- was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, January. ' y 1 -v—-j before they became the tamed of all creatures. I kept two of them, a male and female, for a confiderable time, which became great favourites with the failors, and, thinking that a breed of animals of fuch flrength and fize, fome of them weighing, when dreffed, feven hundred pounds weight, would be a valuable acquifition, I was inclined to have brought them with me to England ; but my intention was fruflrated by an incurable hurt that one of them received at fea. Friday 28. jt was not till the 28th, that the buffaloes were all got on board; however, there was no reafon to regret the time taken up by this fervice, fince, in the interim, two wells of excellent water had been difcovered, of which, as alfo of wood, part of the fhips companies had been employed in laying in a good fupply ; fo that a fhorter flop would be neceffary, for replenifhing our flock of thefe articles, in the Strait of Sunda. A party had likewife been occupied in drawing the feine, at the head of the harbour, where they took a great many good fifh.; and another party, in cutting down the cabbage-palm, which was boiled and ferved out with the meat. Befides this, having been able to procure only a fcanty fupply of cordage at Macao, the repairing of our rigging, was become an object: of conflant attention* and demanded all our fpare time. Pulo-Condore is high and mountainous, and furrounded by feveral fmallcr iflands, fome of which are lefs than one, and others two miles dillant. It takes its name from two Malay words, Pulo fignifying an ifland, and Condore a cala-bafli, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the form of a crefcent, extending near eight miles from the 4 Southernmofl Southernmoft point, in a North Eaft direction; but its 1780. breadth no where exceeds two miles. From the Weftern- * J*Q***Y*m moft extremity, the land trends to the South Eaft for about four miles ; and oppofite to this part of the coaft there is an ifland, called, by Monfieur D'Apres *, Little Condore, which runs two miles in the fame direction. This pofition of the two iflands affords a fafe and commodious harbour, the entrance into which is from the North Weft. The diftance between the two oppofite coafls is three quarters of a mile, exclufive of a border of coral rock, which runs down along each fide, extending about one hundred yards from the fhore. The anchorage is very good, from eleven to five fathoms water, but the bottom is fo foft and clayey, that we found great difficulty in weighing our anchors. Toward the bottom of the harbour there is mallow water for about half a mile, beyond which the two iflands approach fo near each other, as to leave only a paffage at high water for boats. The moft convenient place for watering is at a beach on the Eaflern fide, where there is a fmall flream which furnifhed us with fourteen or fifteen tons of water a day. This ifland, both with refpect to animal and vegetable productions, is confidcrably improved fince the time when Dampier vifited if* Neither that writer, nor the compiler of the Eafl: India Directory, make mention of any other quadrupeds than hogs, which are faid to be very fcarce^ lizards, and the guanoes; and the latter, on the authority of Monfieur Dedier, a French engineer, who furveyed the ifland about the year 1720, fays, that none of the fruits, and efculent plants, fo common in the other parts of India* * Neptune Oriental.. are are to be found here, except water-melons, a few potatoes, fmall gourds, chibboh (a fmall fpecies of onion), and little black beans. At prefent, befides the buffaloes, of which we undcrflood there were feveral large herds, we purchafed from the natives fome remarkably fine fat hogs, of the Chinefe breed. They brought us three or four of a wild fort; and our fportfmen reported, that they frequently met with their tracks in the woods, which alfo abound with monkics and fquirrels, but fo fhy, that it was difficult to fhoot them. One fpecies of the fquirrel was of a beautiful fhining black colour; and another fpecies flriped brown and white. This is called the flying-fquirrel, from being provided with a thin membrane, refembling a bat's wing, extending on each fide the belly, from the neck to the thighs, which, on flretching out their legs, fprcads, and enables them to fly from tree to tree, at a confiderable diftance. Lizzards were in great abundance; but I do not know that any of us faw the guano, and another animal defcribed by Dampier* as refembling the guano, only much larger. Amongfl its vegetable improvements, I have already mentioned the fields of rice we paffed through ; and plantains, various kinds of pompions, cocoa-nuts, oranges, fhaddocks, and pomegranates, were alfo met with; though, except the plantains and fhaddocks, in no great abundance. It is probable, from what has been already faid, relative to the Ihfhop of Adran, that the French have introduced thefe improvements into the ifland, for the purpofe of making it a more convenient refrefhing flation for any of their fhips that may be bound for Cambodia, or Cochin China. * Vid. Dampier, Vol. i. p. 392. Should Should they have made, or intend to make, any fettlement i78°- ' * January. in thofe countries, it is certainly well fituated for that pur- v.—^--j pofe, or for annoying the trade of their enemies, in cafe of war. Our fportfmen were very unfuccefsful in their purfuit of the feathered game, with which the woods are well flocked. One of our gentlemen had the good fortune to fhoot a wild hen; and all the mooting parties agreed that they heard the crowing of the cocks on every fide, which they defcribed to be like that of our common cock, but fhriller; that they faw feveral of them on the wing, but that they were exceedingly fhy. The hen that was fhot was of a fpeckled colour, and of the fame fhape, though not quite fo large, as a full grown pullet of this country. Monfieur Sonnerat has entered into a long differtation, to prove that he was the firft perfon who determined the country to which this mofl beautiful and ufeful bird belongs, and denies that Dampier met with it here. The land in the neighbourhood of the harbour is a continued high hill, richly adorned with a variety of fine tall trees, from the fummit to the water's edge. Among others, we obferved what Dampier calls the tar-tree*; but obferved none that were tapped, in the manner he defcribes. The inhabitants, who are fugitives from Cambodia and Cochin China, are not numerous. They are of a fhort fla-ture, and very fwarthy, and of a weak and unhealthy afpccl; but, as far as wc could judge,of agentle difpofition. We remained here till the 28th of January; and, at tak- Friday 2ft ing leave of the Mandarin, Captain Gore, at his own requefl, * Dampier, Vol. i. p. 390.. gave '78o- gave him a letter of recommendation to the Commanders January. 0 v—v-< of any other fhips that might put in here; to which he added a handfbme prefent. He likewife gave him a letter for the Bifhop of Adran, together with a telefcope, which he begged might be prefented to him as a compliment for the fervices he had received, through his means, at Condore. The harbour at Pulo Condore is in latitude 8Q 40' 00" North. Longitude, deduced from agreatnum } , _ . , r . >ioo 10 40 bait, ber of lunar obfervations, 3 Dip of the North pole of the magnetic 7 0 , needle, 3 Variation of the compafs, - o" 14' Weft. High water, at the full and change J , ,„ ® , to V 4h i6m apparent time, of the moon, - - J rr From this time the water continued for twelve hours, without any vifible alteration, viz. till i6h ij"1 apparent time, when it began to ebb; and at 22h t$* apparent time, it was low water. The change, from ebbing to flowing, was very quick, or in lefs than 5" The water rofe and fell feven feet four inches perpendicular; and every day the fame whilft we continued there. CHAP. CHAP. XI. Departure from Pulo Condore.—Pafs the Straits of Banca. —View of the If and of Sumatra.—Straits of Sunda. —Occurrences there.—Defcription of the If and of Cra-catoa.—Prince's If and.—Effetls of the Climate of Java. —Run to the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfatlions there. —Defcription of Falfe Bay.—Ptxffage to the Orkneys. —General Reflections. N the 28th day of January 1780, we unmoored ; and, "r8^ as foon as we were clear of the harbour, fleered South «. -.-_[/ South Wefl for Pulo Timoan. On the 30th, at noon, the sundYy^o. latitude, by obfervation, being 50 o' North, and longitude 104° 45' Eafl, we altered our courfe to South three quarters Well, having a moderate breeze from the North Eafl, accompanied by fair weather. At two in the morning of the 31II, wc had foundings of forty-five fathoms, over a Monday 31. bottom of fine white fand ; at which time our latitude was 4° 4' North, longitude 104.0 29' Eafl, and the variation of the compafs o° 31' Eafl, Atone in the afternoon, we faw Pulo Timoan; and, at three, it bore South South Wefl three quarters Wefl, diflant ten miles- This ifland is high and woody, and has feveral fmall ones lying off to the Weflward. At five, Pulo Puif-fang was feen bearing South by Eafl three quarters Eafl; and, at nine, the weather being thick and hazy, and hav- Vol III. 3 O ing ing out-run our reckoning from the effect of fome current, we were clofe upon Pulo Aor, in latitude 2° 46' North, longitude 1040 37' Eaft, before we were well aware of ir, which obliged us to haul the wind to the Eafl South Eafl. We kept this courfe till midnight, and then bore away South South Eafl for the Straits of Banca. On the ill of February, at noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was i° 20' North, and the longitude, deduced from a great number of lunar obfervations taken in the courfe of the preceding twelve hours, ioj0Eaft. At the fame time, the longitude, by Mr. Bayly's time-keeper corrected, wTas 105015' Eafl. We now fleered South by Eafl; and, at fun-fet, having fine clear weather, faw Pulo Panjangj the body of the ifland bearing Well North Wefl, and the fmall iflands, lying on the South Eafl of it, Wefl half South, feven leagues diflant. Our latitude, at this time, was o° 53' North. On the 2d, at eight in the morning, we tried for foundings, continuing to do the fame every hour, till we had paffed the Straits of Sunda, and found the bottom with twenty-three fathoms of line. At noon, being in latitude, by obfervation, o° 22' South, longitude 1050 14' Eafl, and our foundings twenty fathoms, we came in fight of the little iflands called Dominis, which lie off the Eaflern part of Lingcn ; and which bore from North 620 Weft, to North, 8o° Wefl, five leagues diflant. At this time we paffed a great deal of wood, drifting on the fea ; and, at one o'clock, we faw Pulo Taya, bearing South Well by Wefl, diflant feven leagues. It is a fmall high ifland, with two round peaks, and two detached rocks lying off it to the Northward. When abreafl of this ifland, we had foundings of fifteen fathoms. During this and the preceding day, we faw great quantities s of of a reddifli coloured fcum or fpawn, floating on the water, n ]7?'°- 10 February. in a Southerly direction. ^-—<-—t At day-light, on the 3d, wc came in fight of the Three Thurfdayj. Iflands j and, foon after, of Monopin Hill, on the ifland of Banca. At noon, this hill, which forms the North Eafl point of the entrance of the Straits, bore South Eafl half South, diflant fix leagues ; our latitude, by obfervation, being i°48' South, and longitude 1050 3' Eafl, the foundings feventeen fathoms, and no perceivable variation in the compafs. Having got to the Weflward of the fhoal, called Frederick Endric, at half paft two we entered the Straits, and bore away to the Southward; and, in the afternoon, Monopin Hill bearing due Eafl, we determined its latitude to be 20 3' South, the fame as in Monf. D'Apres' map, and its longitude 1050 18' Eafl. At nine, a boat came off from the Banca fhore, and having rowed round the fhips, went away again. We hailed her in the Malaye tongue to come on board, but received no anfwer. At midnight, finding a flrong tide againfl us, we anchored in twelve fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing North 29° Wefl. On the 4th, in the morning, after experiencing fome dif- Friday 4. ficuhy in weighing our anchors, owing to the fliff tenacious quality of the ground, we proceeded with the tide down the Straits; the little wind we had from the Northward dying away as the day advanced. At noon, there being a perfect calm, and the tide making againfl us, wc dropt our anchor in thirteen fathoms water, about three miles from what is called the Third Point, on the Sumatra more ; Monopin Hill bearing North 540 Wed. The latitude, by obfervation, was 20 22' South, longitude 105° 38' Eafl. At three, in the afternoon, wc weighed and flood on through the Straits With a 3 O 2 light Feb/ltry ^S^* DreezeJ and, at eight, were abreaft of the Second Point, v—' and paffed it within two miles, in feventeen fathoms water, a fufficient proof, that this point may be bordered upon with fafety. At midnight, we again came to anchor, on account of the tide, in thirteen fathoms, Mount Permiffang, on the ifland of Banca, bearing North f Eafl, and the Firfl Point South 54* Eafl, diflant about three leagues. Saturday 5. In the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and kept on to the South Eafl; and, at ten, paffed a fmall fhoal, lying in a line with Lufepara and the Firfl Point, at the diflance of five miles from the latter. At noon, the ifland of Lufepara, bearing South, 570 7 Eafl, four miles diflant, we determined its latitude to be 30 io't South, and longitude ic6° 15' Eafl. The difference of longitude between the ifland Lufepara, which lies in the South entrance of the Straits of Banca, and Monopin Hill, which forms one fide of the entrance from the North, we found to be 55', which is only two miles lefs than what is given in D'ApreV chart. In pafling thefe Straits, the coafl of Sumatra may be approached fomewhat clofer than that of Banca. At the diftance of two or three miles from the fhore, there are ten, eleven, twelve, or thirteen fathoms, free from rocks or flioals j however, the lead is the furefl guide. The country is covered with wood down to the water's edge, and the fhores arc fo low, that the fea overflows the land, and wafhes the trunks of the trees. To this flat and marfhy fituation of the fhore, we may attribute thofe thick fogs and vapours, which we perceived, every morning, not without dread and horror, hanging over the ifland, till they were difperfcd by the rays of the fun. The fhores of Banca are much bolder, and the country inland rifes to a moderate 1 height, height, and appears to be well wooded throughout. We rr*°- often faw fires on this ifland during the night-time; but ___la none on the oppofite fhore. The tide runs through the Straits at the rate of between two and three knots an hour. In the morning of the 6th, we paffed to the Weflward of Sunday 6* Lufepara, at the diflance of four or five miles ; generally-carrying foundings of five and fix fathoms water, and never lefs than four. We afterward fleered South by Eafl; and having brought Lufepara to bear due North, and deepened our water to feven fathoms, we altered our courfe to South by Wefl, keeping the lead going, and hauling out a little, whenever we fhoaled our water. The foundings on the Sumatra fide we flill found to be regular, and gradually fhoal in g, as we approached the fhore. At five in the afternoon we faw the Three Sifters, bearing South by Wefl half Weil; and, at feven, we came to an anchor in ten fathoms, abouE eight miles to the North of the iflands. The weather was clofe and fultry, with light winds, generally from the North Wefl; but fometimes varying round as far as the North Eafl; and, during the night, we obferved much lightning over Sumatra. We weighed, the next morning at five, and at eight were Mandaf 7, clofe in with the Sifters. Thefe are two very fmall iflands, well covered with wood, lying in latitude 5* o'f South, longitude 1060 12' Eafl, nearly North and South from each other, and furrounded by a reef of coral rocks y the whole circumference of which is about four or five miles. At noon we got fight of the ifland of Java to the Southward ; the North Wefl extremity of which (Cape St. Nicholas) bore South; North Ifland, on the Sumatra fhore, South 270 Wefl, and and the Sifters North. 270 Eaft, diftant four leagues; our February. fc> > *-' latitude was 50 21' South, longitude 10 f S71 Eaft- At four in the afternoon, we faw two fail in the Straits of Sunda ; one lying at anchor near the Mid-channel Illand; the other nearer the Java fhore. Not knowing to what nation they might belong, we cleared our fhips for action ; and at fix came to an anchor in twenty-five fathoms, four miles Eaft by South from North Ifland. Here wc lay all night, and had very heavy thunder and lightning to the North Weft; from which quarter the wind blew in light breezes, accompanied with hard rain. Tuefday s. At eight o'clock the next morning, we weighed, and proceeded through the Straits, the tide fetting to the Southward, as it had done all night; but about ten the breeze failing, we came to again in thirty-five fathoms; a high ifland, or rather rock, called the Grand Toque, bearing South by Eaft. Wc were, at this time, not more than two miles from the mips, which, now hoifting Dutch colours, Captain Gore fent a boat on board for intelligence. The rain ftill continued with thunder and lightning. Early in the afternoon, the boat returned with an account that the large fhip was a Dutch Eaft-Indiaman, bound for Europe; and the other a pacquet from Batavia, with orders for the feveral fhips lying in the Straits. It is the cuftom for the Dutch fhips, as foon as their lading is nearly completed, to leave Batavia, on account of its extreme unwhole-fomenefs, and proceed to fome of the more healthy iflands in the Straits, where they wait for the remainder of their cargo, and their difpatches. Notwitfthanding this precaution, the Indiaman had loft, fince her departure from Batavia, tavia, four men, and had as many more whofe recovery FJjjJjL was defpaired of. She had lain here a fortnight, and was i—H—j now about to proceed to water at Cracatoa, having jult received final orders by the pacquet. At feven in the morning of the 9th, wc weighed, and Wedncf. 9. flood on through the Straits to the South Weft, keeping pretty clofe in with the iflands on the Sumatra fhore, in order to avoid a rock near Mid-channel Ifland, which lay on our left. At half after ten, I received orders from Captain Gore to make fail toward a Dutch fhip which now hove in fight to the Southward, and which we fuppofed to be from Europe; and, according to the nature of the intelligence wc could procure from her, cither to join him at Cracatoa, where he intended to flop, for the purpofe of fupplying the fhips with arrack ; or to proceed to the South Eafl end of Prince's Ifland, and there take in our water, and wait for him. s I accordingly bore down toward the Dutch fhip, which, foon after, came to an anchor to the Eaflward; when the wind flackening, and the current flill fetting very flrong through the flrait to the South Well, we found it impollible to fetch her, and having therefore got as near her as the tide would permit, we alfo dropt anchor. I immediately difpatched Mr. Williamfon, in the cutter, with orders to get dh board her if poffiblc ; but as fhe lay near a mile off, and the tide run with great rapidity, we foon perceived, that the boat was dropping fall aflern. We therefore made the fignal to return, and immediately began to veer away the cable, and fent out a buoy aflern, in order to affifl him in getting on board again. Our poverty, in the article of cordage, was here very confpicuous j for we had not a fingle coil „ coil of rope, in the (lore-room, to fix to the buoy, but were 1 epruary. 1 * ' v-—v—f obliged to fet about unreeving the ftudding-fail geer, the topfail-halliards, and tackle-falls, for that purpofe; and the boat was at this time driving to the Southward fo fall, that it was not before we had veered away two cables, and almofl all our running rigging, that fhe could fetch the buoy. Thmfd»yio. 1 was now under the necellity of waiting till the flrength of the tide mould abate, which did not happen till the next morning, when Mr. Williamfon got on board the fhip, and karnt, that fhe had been feven months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope ; that before fhe failed, France and Spain had declared war againfl Great Britain ; and that fhe left Sir Edward Hughes, with a fquadron of men of war, and a fleet of Eafl-India mips, at the Cape-Mr, Williamfon having, at the fame time, been informed, that the water at Cracatoa was very good, and always preferred, by the Dutch fhips, to that of Prince's Ifland, I re-folved to rejoin the Refolution at the former place; and a fair breeze fpringing up, we weighed and flood over toward the ifland, where we foon after faw her at anchor; but the wind falling, and the tide fetting flrong againfl us, 1 was obliged to drop anchor, at the diflance of about five miles from the Refolution, and immediately fent a boat on board, to acquaint Captain Gore with the intelligence we had received. As foon as the Refolution faw us preparing to come to, ihc fired her guns, and hoiflcd an Englifh jack at the enfign flail, the iignal at fea to lead ahead. This we afterward underflood was intended to prevent our anchoring, on account of the foul ground, which the maps fhe had on board placed placed here. However, as we found none, having a muddy p"z*^ bottom, and good holding ground, in fixty fathoms water, <-,—a we kept faff till the return of the boat, which brought orders to proceed the next morning to Prince's Ifland. We were at this time two miles diflant from the fhore; the peak of Cracatoa bore North Wefl by North ; Bantam Point Eafl North Eafl half Eaft; Prince's Ifland South Weft by Wefl. The ifland of Cracatoa is the Southernmofl of a group fituated in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda. It has a high peaked hill on the South end *, which lies in latitude 6° 9' South, and longitude 105" 15' Eafl; the whole circuit of the ifland is not more than three leagues. Off the North Eafl end lies a fmall ifland, which forms the road where the Refolution anchored ; and within a reef that runs off the South end of the latter, there is good fheker againft all Northerly winds, with eighteen fathoms water near the reef, and twenty-feven in the mid-channel. To the North Wefl, there is a narrow pafs for boats between the two iflands. The fhore, which forms the Weflern fide of the road, is in a North Wefl direction, and has a bank of coral flretching into the fea, about one third of a cable's length, which makes the landing difficult for boats, except at high water ; but the anchoring ground is very good, and free from rocks. The place where the Refolution watered is a fmall fpring, fituated abreafl of the South end of the fmall ifland, at a fhort diflance from the water-fide. A little to the Southward, there is a very hot fpring, which is ufed by the natives as a * The ifland of Tamarin, or Sambouricou, which lies about four leagues to the North of Cracatoa, may be eafily miftaken for the latter, having a hill of nearly the fame fize and form, fituated alfo near its Southern extremity. Vol. III. - 3 P bath. 780. bath. Whilft we were lving off the South end of this ifland, February. * 0 * \-^—» we fent a boat with the Mafter on fhore, to look for water ; but after having landed with fome difficulty, he returned unfuccefsful. Cracatoa is efleemed very healthy, in comparifon of the neighbouring countries. It confifls of high land, riling gradually on all fides from the fea; and the whole is covered with trees, except a few fpots which the natives have cleared for rice fields. The number of people on the ifland is very inconfiderable. Their Chief, as are thofe of all the other iflands in the Straits, is fubject: to the King of Bantam. The coral reefs afford plenty of fmall turtles ; but other re-frefhments are very fcarce, and fold at an enormous price. Latitude of the road where the Refolution anchored - - 8a 6' South. Longitude, by Mr. Bayly's time-keeper - 1040 48' Eaft. Ditto, by obfervation - - 105* 36' Eaft. Dip of the South end of the magnetic needle 260 3' Variation of the compafs - - i° o' Weft. On the full and change days, it is high-water at yh in the morning. The water rifes three feet two inches perpendicular. At eight o'clock in the evening, it began to blow frefh from the Weflward, with violent thunder, lightning, and Friday u. rain •, and at three the next morning, we weighed and flood over for Prince's Ifland, but the Wefterly wind dying away,, was fucceeded by a breeze from the South Eaft, and, at the fame time, a iirong tide fetting to the South Weft prevented our fetching the ifland, and obliged us, at two in the afternoon, to drop anchor in fixty-five fathoms, over a muddy bottom, bottom, at three leagues diftance from it; the high hill F bearing South Weft by South, and the peak on Cracatoa —-v-North by Eaft. We had light airs and calms till fix next morning, when we weighed and made fail, having, in our Saturday endeavours to heave the anchor out of the ground, twice broken the old meffenger, and afterward a new one, cut out of our bed hawfer. This, however, was intirely owing to the wretched ftate of our cordage, as the ftrain was not very confiderable, and we had befides aflifted the cable in coming in, by clapping the cat-tackle on it. The wind continuing fair, at noon we came to an anchor off the South Eaft end of Prince's Iiland, in twenty-fix fathoms, over a fandy bottom ; the Eaft end of the ifland bearing North North Eaft, the Southernmoft point in fight South Weft by South, the high peak North Weft half Weft, diftant from the nearefl fhore half a mile. As foon as we had come to anchor, Lieutenant Lannyon, who had been here before with Captain Cook, in the year 1770, was fent along with the Mailer, to look for the watering-place. The brook from which, according to the befl of his recollection, the Endeavour had been fupplied, was found quite fait. Further inland, they faw a dry bed, where the water feemed to have lodged in rainy feafons; and, about a cables length below, another run, fupplied from an extenlive pool, the bottom of which, as well as the furface, was covered with dead leaves. This, though a little brackifh, being much preferable to the other, we began watering here early the next morning, and finidied the Sunday 1 fame day. The natives, who came to us foon after we anchored, brought a plentiful fupply of large fowls, and fome turtles j 3 P 2 but 476 AVOYAGETO 1780. but the laft were for the moft part very fmall. In the courfe February. '*>**■'■'■•■* 111 • , a 1 1 *_v-' or the night, we had heavy rain ; and on the 14th, at day-Monday 14. |-g]ltj we faw tjie i{ef0iution to the Northward, ftanding toward the ifland, and at two in the afternoon, flic dropt anchor clofe to us. In the courfe of the day, we heeled the fhip, and fcrubbed and hogged her bottom, which was very foul; and got ready for fea. Tuefday 15. The next day, Captain Gore not having completed his flock of water at Cracatoa, fent his men on more, who now found the brook that was firft mentioned, rendered perfectly fweet by the rain, and* flowing in great abundance. This being too valuable a trcafure to be neglected, I gave orders, that all the cafks we had filled before fhould be flarted, and replenifhed with the frefh water, which wasao Wcdnef. 26. cordingly done before noon the next day; and in the evening, we cleared the decks, and both fhips were ready for fea. Friday 18. In tne forenoon of the 18th, we had heavy rains, and variable winds, which prevented our getting under way till two in the afternoon, when a light wind fprung up from the Northward; but this foon after leaving us, we were obliged to drop our anchor again, at eight o'clock that night, in fifty fathoms water, and wait till the fame hour Saturday 19. the next morning. At that time, being favoured by a breeze from the North Weft, we broke ground, to our incxpreflible fatisfaction, for the laft time in the Straits of Sunda, and the next day, had intirely loft fight of Prince's Ifland. This ifland having been already defcribed by Captain Cook, in the hiflory of a former voyage, I fhall only add, that wc were exceedingly ftruck with the great general refemblance of the natives, both in figure, colour, manners, and THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 477 and even language, to the nations we had been fo much _ '780* " ° Jbebruary.. converfant with, in the South Seas. The effects of the Ja- v-—»—-» vanefe climate, and I did not cfcape without my full fhare of it, made me incapable of purfuing the comparifon fo minutely as I could have wifhed. The country abounds with wood to fuch a degree, that notwithstanding the quantity cut down every year by the fhips which put into the road, there is no appearance of its diminution. We were well fupplied with fmall turtle, and fowls of a moderate fize; the laft were fold at the rate of ten for a Spanifh dollar. The natives alfo brought us many hog-deer, and a prodigious number of monkeys, to our great annoyance, as mofl of our faiiors provided themfelves with one, if not two of thefe troublefome animals. As we mould have met with fome difficulty in finding the watering-place, if Mr. Lannyon had not been with us, it may be worth while, for the ufe of future navigators, to dc-fcribe its fituation more particularly. The peaked hill on the ifland, bears from it North Wefl by North ; a remarkable tree growing upon a coral reef, and quire detached from the neighbouring fhrubs, flands juft to the Northward ; and clofe by it, there is a fmall plot of reedy graft* the only piece of the kind that can be feen hereabout. Thefe marks will fhew the place where the pool empties itfelf into the fea; but the water here is generally fait, as well as that which is in the pool. The cafks muft therefore be filled about fifty yards higher up; where, in dry fea fons, the frefli water that comes down from the hills, is loft among the leaves, and muft be fearched for by clearing them away. ; The 1780. *rnc latitude of the anchoring:-place at February. 0 r *—v-—' Prince's Ifland was - 6° 36' 15" South. Longitude - - 1050 1/ 30" Eafl. Dip of the South pole of the magnetic needle - - - 2 8° 15' o" Variation of the compafs - o° 54' o" Wefl. Mean of the thermometer - - 830 From the time of our entering the Straits of Banca, we began to experience the powerful effects of this peftilen-tial climate. Two of our people fell dangeroufly ill of malignant putrid fevers ; which however we prevented from fpreading, by putting the patients apart from the reft, in the moft airy births. Many were attacked with teazing coughs ; others complained of violent pains in the head; and even the healthieft among us felt a fenfation of fuffocat-ing heat, attended by an infufferable languor, and a total lofs of appetite. But though our fituation was for a time thus uneafy and alarming, we had at laft the Angular fatisfaction of efcaping from thefe fatal feas, without the lofs of a fingle life; a circumftance which was probably owing in part to the vigorous health of the crews, when we firft arrived here, as well as to the flriet attention, now become habitual in our men, to the falutary regulations introduced amongft us by Captain Cook. On our leaving Prince's Ifland, and during the whole time of our run from thence to the Cape of Good Hope, the crew of the Refolution was in a much more fickly ftate than that of the Difcovery. For though many of us continued, for fome time, complaining of the effects of the noxious climate we had left, yet happily wc all recovered from them. i . Of Of the two who had been ill of fevers, one, after bein^ feized with violent convulfions, on the 12th of February, -M—-/ which made us defpair of his life, was relieved by the application of blifters, and was foon after out of danger. The other recovered, but more flowly. On board the Refolution, befides the obftinate coughs and fevers under which they very generally laboured, a great many were afflicted with fluxes, the number of whom, contrary to our expectations,, continued increafing till our arrival at the Cape. Captain Gore attributed this difference in part, and probably with fome reafon, to the Difcovery having her fireplace between decks ; the heat and fmoke of which he conceived might help to mitigate the bad effects of the damp night air. But I am rather inclined to believe, that we efcaped the flux by the precautions that were taken to prevent our catching it from others. For if fome kinds of fluxes be, as I apprehend there is no doubt they are, contagious, it is not improbable, that the Refolution caught this diforder from the Dutch fhips at Cracatoa. In order to avoid this danger, when Mr. Williamfon was fent to the India-man in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda, he had the flricteft orders not to fuffer any of our people, on any account whatever, to go on board ; and whenever we had afterward occafion to have any communication with the Refolution, the fame caution was conftantly obferved. We were no fooner clear of Prince's Ifland, than we had: a gentle breeze from the Wefl North Well; but this did not laft longj for the following day the wind became again Sunday variable, and continued fo till the noon of the 25th, when it grew fqually, and blew frefh from the North, On 1780. February. Tuefday 22. Friday 25. On the 23d at noon, being in latitude 10*28' South, and longitude 104014', we faw great quantities of boobies, and other fowls, that feldom go far from land ; from which we conjectured, that wc were near fome fmall unknown ifland. In the evening of the 25th, the wind changed fuddenly to the Southward, accompanied with heavy rains, and began to blow with great violence. During the night, almofl every fail we had bent gave way, and mod of them were fplit to rags; our rigging alfo fuffered materially, and we were, the next day, obliged to bend our laft fuit of fails, and to knot and fplice the rigging, our cordage being all expended. This fudden ftorm wc attributed to the change from the monfoon to the regular trade-wind ; our latitude was about 130 io' South, and we had made by our reckoning about 40 7 of longitude Weft from Java head. From the 26th of this month to the 28th of March, we had a regular trade-wind from the South Eaft to Eaft by South, with fine weather; and being in an old beaten track met no occurrence that deferved the fmalleft notice. In the morning of the 28th of March, being in latitude 31° 42' South, and longitude 350 26' Eaft, the trade-wind left us in a violent thunder ftorm. From this time to the 3d of April, when our latitude was 350 1' South, and longitude 26° 3' Eaft, the winds were moderate, and generally from the South quarter. A frefli breeze then fprung up from the Eaflward, which continued till the afternoon of the Tuefday4, 4th ; after which we had a calm that laftcd the two following days. It had hitherto been Captain Gore's intention to proceed directly to St. Helena, without flopping at the Cape ; but 4 the Saturday 26. March. Tuefday 28. April. Monday 3. the rudder of the Refolution having been, for fome time, Wftr . April, complaining, and, on being examined, reported to be in a ^—-1 dangerous ftate, he refolved to fleer immediately for the Cape, as the moft eligible place, both for the recovery of his lick, and for procuring a new main-piece to the rudder. . From the 21ft of March, when we were in latitude 270 22' South, longitude 520 25' Eaft, to the 5th of April, when WC Wedncf. c. had got into latitude 360 12' South, longitude 220 7' Eaft, we were ftrongly affected by the currents, which fet to the South South Weft, and South Weft by Weft, fometimes at the rate 'of eighty knots a day. On the 6th, having got Thurfday*. under the lee of the African coaft, we loft them intirely. In the morning of the 6th, a fail was feen to the South Weft Handing toward us; and, as the wind foon after rofe from the fame quarter, we cleared our mips for action. We now difcovered, from the mad-head, five fail more on our lee-bow, Handing to the Eaflward; but the weather coming on hazy, we loft fight of them all in an hour's time. Our latitude at noon was 35" 49' South, longitude 210 32' Eaft. At feven o'clock the next morning (the feventh), we made Friday 7. the land to the Northward at a confiderable diftance. On the 8th, the weather was fqually, and blew frefli from Saturday 9. the North Weft; the following day it fettled to the Weft, Sunday 9. and we paffed pretty clofe to the fail feen on the 6th, but did not hail her. She was clumfy in figure, and, to appearance, unfkilfully managed; yet fhe out-failed us exceedingly. The colours which fhe hoifted were different from any we had feen; fome fuppofed them to be Portugueze, others Imperial. At day-light, the next morning, the land again appeared Monday 10., to the North North Weft j and, in the forenoon, a fnow was Vol. III. 3 feen April' **een kearing down to us, which proved to be an Englifh u—y*L.j EafWndia packet, that had left Table Bay three days before, and was cruizing with orders for the China fleet, and other India fhips. She told us, that, about three weeks before, Monf.Trongoller's fquadron, confining of fix fhips, had failed from the Cape, and was gone to cruize off St. Helena, for our Eafl-India fleet. This intelligence made us conjecture, that the five fail we had feen Handing to the Eaflward mufl have been the French fquadron, who, in that cafe, had given over their cruize, and were probably proceeding to the Mauritius. Having informed the packet of our conjectures, and alfo of the time we underflood the China fhips were to fail from Canton, we left them, and proceeded toward the Cape. In the evening of the 10th, the Gunner's Quoin bore North by Eafl, and Falfe Cape Eafl North Eafl; but the wind being at South Wefl, and variable, prevented our getting Wednef. 12. mt0 Fa^e Bay, till the evening of the 12th, when we dropt anchor abreafl of Simon's Bay. We found a flrong current fetting to the Weflward, round the Cape, which, for fome time, we could but juft flern, with a breeze that would Thurfdayi7, j^ve catTied us four knots an hour. The next morning, we flood into Simon's Bay; and at eight came to anchor, and moored a cable each way; the befl bower to the Eafl South Eafl, and fmall bower Wefl North Wefl; the South Eafl point of the bay bearing South by Eafl, Table Mountain North Eafl half North; diflant from the nearefl fhore one-third of a mile. We found lying here, the Naffau and Southampton Eafl-Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The Refolution faluted the fort with eleven guns, and the fame number was returned. Mr. Mr. Brandt, the Governor of this place, came to vifit us, 7Eo- 1 April. as foon as we had anchored. This gentleman had con- 1——t ceived a great affection for Captain Cook, who had been his conflant guefl, the many times he had vifited the Cape; and though he had received the news of his melancholy fate fome time before, he was exceedingly affected at the fight of our fhips returning without their old Commander. He appeared much furprized to fee our crew in fo flout and healthy a condition, as the Dutch fhip that had left Macao, on our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape fome time before, reported, that we were in a mofl wretched flate, having only fourteen hands left on board the Refolution, and feven on board the Difcovery. It is not eafy to conceive the motive thefe people could have had for propagating fo wanton and malicious a falfehood. On the 15th, I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town ; Saturday 15, and, the next morning, we waited on Baron Plettenberg, Sunday l6' the Governor, by whom we were received with every pof-fible attention and civility. He had alfo conceived a great perfonal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highefl admiration of his character, and heard the recital of his misfortune, with many expreffions of unaffected forrow. In one of the principal apartments of the Governor's houfe, he fhewed us two pictures, of Van Trump and De Ruyter, with a vacant fpace left between them, which he faid he meant to fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook; and, for that purpofe, he requefled our afliilance when we fhould arrive in England, in purchafing one for him, at any price. We were afterward informed by the Governor, that all the powers ac this time at war with England had given 3 0^2 orders '7Sn- orders to their cruizers to let us pafs unmolefled. This, as April. r u-—far as related to the French, we had fuflicient reafon to think true ; as Mr. Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore, a letter from Mr. Stephens, inclofing a copy of Monf. de Sartine's orders, taken on board the Licorne. With refpect to the Americans, the matter flill relied on report; but Baron Plettenberg affured us, that he had been exprefsly told, by the Commander of a Spanifh fhip, which had touched at the Cape, that he, and all the officers of his nation, had received orders to the fame effect. Thefe afTur-anccs confirmed Captain Gore in the refolution he had taken, of maintaining, on his part, a neutral conduct; and accordingly, when, on the arrival of the Sybil, to convoy the India fhips home, it was propofed to him to accompany them on their paffage, he thought proper to decline an offer, the acceptance of which might, in cafe wc had fallen in with any of the enemies mips, have brought him into a very difficult and embarrafling fituation. During our flay at the Cape, wc met with every proof of the moft friendly difpofition toward us, both in the Governor and principal perfons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. At our firft arrival, Colonel Gordon, the Commander of the Dutch forces, with whom, on our former vifit here, I had the happinefs of being on a footing of intimacy and friendfhip, was abfent on a journey into the interior parts of Africa, but returned before our departure. He had, on this occafion, penetrated farther up the country than any other traveller had done before him, and made great additions to the valuable collection of natural curi-ofitics with which he has enriched the Mufeum of the Prince of Orange. Indeed, a long refidencc at the Cape, and the 2 powerful powerful affiflance he has derived from his rank and fituation there, joined to an active and indefatigable fpirit, and an eager thirft after knowledge, have enabled him to acquire a more intimate and perfect knowledge of this part of Africa, than could have fallen to the lot of any other perfon: and it is with great pleafure I can congratulate the Public on the information I have received of his intentions to give the world, from his own hand, a hiflory of his travels. Falfe Bay, fituated to the Eaflward of the Cape of Good Hope, is frequented by fhipping during the prevalence of the North Well winds, which begin to blow in May, and make it dangerous to lie in Table Bay. It is terminated on the Wefl by the Cape of Good Hope, and on the Eaflward by Falfe Cape. The entrance of the Bay is fix leagues wide, the two Capes bearing from each other due Eafl and Wefl. About eleven miles from the Cape of Good Hope, on the Wefl fide, is fituated Simon's Bay, the only convenient flation for fhips to lie in; for although the road without it affords good anchorage, it is too open, and but ill circumflanced for procuring neceffaries, the town being fmall, and fupplied with provifions from Cape Town, which is about twenty-four miles diflant. To the North North Eafl of Simon's Bay, there are feveral others, from which it may be eafily diflinguifhed, by a remarkable fandy way to the Northward of the town, which makes a flriking object. In fleering for the harbour, along the Well more, there is a fmall fiat rock, called Noah's Ark, and about a mile to the North Eafl of it, feveral others, called the Roman Rocks. Thefe lie one mile and a half from the anchoring place j and either be twee a between them, or to the Northward of the Roman Rocks, there is a fafe paflage into the Bay. When the North Well gales are fet in, the following bearings wTill direct: the mariner to a fafe and commodious birth : Noah's Ark, South 51* Eafl, and the centre of the hofpital South 530 Well, in feven fathoms. But if the South Eafl winds have not done blowing, it is better to flay further out in eight or nine fathoms. The bottom is fandy, and the anchors fettle con-lidcrably before they get hold. All the North part of the Bay is low fandy land, but the Eafl fide is very high. About fix miles Eaft of Noah's Ark lies Seal Ifland, the South part of which is faid to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with fafety, nearer than in twenty-two fathoms. Off the Cape of Good Hope are many funk rocks, fome of which appear at low water; and others have breakers conftantly on them. The latitude of the anchoring-place in Simon's Bay, by obfervation - - 340 20' South. The longitude - - - 180 29' Eaft. Dip of the South end of the magnetic needle 460 47' Variation of the compafs - - 220 16' Weft. On the full and change days, it was high-water at sh 55™ apparent time ; the tide rofe and fell five feet five inches ; at the neap tides, it rofe four feet one inch. From the obfervations taken by Mr. Bayly and myfelf, ' on the nth of this month, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due Weft, we found its latitude to be 340 23' South, which is 4' to the Northward of its pofition, as determined by the Abbe de la Caille. Having Having completed our victualling, and furnifhcd our- '780. 0 May. felves with the necelTary fupply of naval flores, we failed 1--— out of the Bay on the 9th of May, and on the 14th, we got Tuefday 9 into the South Eafl trade-wind, and fleered to-the Weflward of the iflands of St. Helena and Afcenfion. On the 31ft, being Wednef. 3 in latitude 120 48' South, longitude 150 49' Well, the mag- Sunda>rli netic needle was found to have no dip. On the 12th of June, we paffed the equator for the fourth June-time during this voyage, in longitude 260 16' Well. We Mondiy 1 now began to perceive the effects of a current fetting North by Eafl, half a knot an hour. It continued in this direc-tion till the middle of July, when it began to fet a little tO Saturday the Southward of the Wefl. On the r2th of Augufl, we made the Weflern coafl of Ire- Auguit. land, and after a fruitlefs attempt to get into Port Galway, Saturdax1 from whence it was Captain Gore's intention to have fent the journals and maps of our voyage to London, we were obliged, by flrong Southerly winds, to fleer to the Northward. Our next object was to put into Lough Swilly; but the wind continuing in the fame quarter, we flood on to the Northward of Lewis Ifland ; and on the 22d of Augufl, Tuefday 2 at eleven in the morning, both fhips came to an anchor at Stromnefs. From hence, I was difpatched by Captain Gore, to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with our arrival; and > »i 1 1 r\ • 1 r* r 1 October, on the 4th day of October the fhips arrived fafe at the wednef. 4 Nore, after an abfence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. On quitting the Difcovery at Stromnefs, I had the fatisfaction of leaving the whole crew in perfect health; and at the fame time, the number of convalescents on board the Refolution, did not exceed two or three, of whom only one was incapable of fervice. In the courfe of our voyage, the 1 Refolution Refolution loft but five men by ficknefs, three of whom •were in a precarious ftate of health at our departure from England ; the Difcovery did not lofe a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations eftablifhed by Captain Cook, with which the world is already acquainted, may be juftly confidered as the principal caufe, under the bleffing of Divine Providence, of this fingular fuccefs. But the baneful effects of fait provifions might perhaps, in the end, have been felt, notwithftanding thefe falutary precautions, if we had not affifted them, by availing ourfelvcs of every fubfti-tute, our fituation at various times afforded. Thefe frequently confifting of articles, which our people had not been ufed to confider as food for men, and being fometimes exceedingly naufeous, it required the joint aid of perfuafion, authority, and example, to conquer their prejudices and difgufts. The preventives we principally relied on were four krout and portable foup. As to the antifcorbutic remedies, with which we were amply fupplied, we had no opportunity of trying their effects, as there did not appear the flighteil fymptoms of the fcurvy, in either fhip, during the whole voyage. Our malt and hops had alfo been kept as a re-fource, in cafe of actual ficknefs, and on examination at the Cape of Good Hope, were found intirely fpoiled. About the fame time, were opened fome cafks of bifcuir, flour, malt, peafe, oatmeal, and groats, which, by way of experiment, had been put up in fmall cafks, lined with tin-frail, and found all, except the peafe, in a much better ftate, than could have been expected in the ufual manner of package. I cannot neglect this opportunity of recommending to the ^onfideration of Government, the neceflity of allowing a fuflicient cient quantity of Peruvian bark, to fuch of his Majcfty's mips as may be expofed to the influence of unvvholcfome climates. It happened very fortunately in the Difcovery, that only one of the men that had fevers in the Straits of Sunda, flood in need of this medicine, as he alone confirmed the whole quantity ufually carried out by Surgeons, in fuch veffels as ours. Had more been affected in the fame manner, they would probably all have perifhed, from the want of the only remedy capable of affording them effectual relief. Another circumftance attending this voyage, which, if wc confider its duration, and the nature of the fervice in which we were engaged, will appear Scarcely lefs Angular than the extraordinary healthinefs of the crews, was, that the two mips never loft fight of each other for a day together, except twice; which was owing, the firft time, to an accident that happened to the Difcovery off the coaft of Owhy-. hec; and the fecond, to the fogs we met with at the entrance of Awatfka Bay. A ftronger proof cannot be given of the fkill and vigilance of our fubaltern officers, to whom this mare of merit almofl intirely belongs. Vol. III. APPENDIX, APPENDIX. APPENDIX, No. L TABLES of the ROUTE of the RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. N. B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is, in general, fet down; and the Variation, as it was obferved, either in the Morning or Evening of the fame Day, or both. Therefore, the Tables do not contain the exact Place where the Variation was obferved; but the Difference is fo little, that it can make no material Error. T ABLE I. From the Cape of Good Hope to Kerguelen's Land. Time. i776 Dec. Noon Latitude South. 34 32 43b 48 538 21 6 38 59 740 03 841 942 04 27 Longitude Eaft. J7 59 l1 19 2 i 23 36 °5 23 29 2S 25 28 5 3° 7 Variation Weft. bd 59 64 60 .' 22 00 22 30 23 00 59 23 33 63 58*- 24 00 47, I54i Inches. 30,03 29>75 2 9,5 9 29,48 29»37 29>47 29,81 29,80 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. £ Wefterly. Moderate wind and cloudy £ weather. j Northerly. Light winds, and cloudy. I N. W. Frefh gale, and cloudy. i W. N. W. A Itrong gale, and cloudy. I Variable. Squally, with rain. )W. S. W. Biifk wind, thunder, light. ( ning, and rain. W. S. W. Squally, with hail and rain. W. S. W. Strong gales, and cloudy. TABLE I. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Cape of Good Hope to Kerguelen's Land. Time. 1776. Dec. 1 o 11 12 3 47 1447 1 16 1 1 1 20 21 22 2j 24 548 Latitude South. 43 56 45 37 46 20J *5 46 24' |j 42 28 351 26 48 27. 48 27 48 18 48 36 48 24 48 41 748 848 948 Longitude Eaft. Variation Weft. H K o 3 32 13 04 4J 34 31 i25 00 44? 37 g I26 00 (38 40 48 44 *5 48 16J 52 j 1 56 6 56 40 59 20 62 43 65 53 66 20 67 26; 68 35 69 11 26 15 31 op 27 44 3«1 4'i 42! 41 42 42 45 44 46 43* 40; 43 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ji Northerly. Moderate wind, and driz-29»34 1J zling rain. 29,21 ( Wefterly. A frefli gale, and cloudy. \ S. W. Squally. Showers of hail and fnow. I Saw fea-birds, and fea-weed. !W. S. W. Strong gale and fqually, with fnow. In the evening failed between P. Edward's Iflands. \ Wefterly. Gentle breezes, and hazv 3°>02) weather. 7 SN. E. Frefli gales, and cloudy. Rock-wee cl. rN. N. E. Strong wind, and cloudy. Pen-29>/° ^ guins, whales, &c. ( Variable wrind and weather. AlbatrofTes 29>97 ^ penguins, &c. JVariable, moderate, and cloudy. Penguins, whales, &c. r Wefterly. Foggy, with fome rain. Rock-29>97 j weed. Few birds. , \ N. W. Moderate and hazy. Rock-weed. 29>9<5 j Few birds. (N. W. b. W. A frefh gale, and foggy. 29>77 \ Very few birds. \ Wefterly. Light winds, and gloomy 29,97 \ weather. Birds. 29,58 I N. E. Mod. wind, rain. Many birds. ( Northerly. Frefh gale, and cloudy. Saw 29>72 I land. ' N. W. Moderate and hazy. In Chrift- 29>95 \ mas Harbour, Kerguelen's Land. TABLE II. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Kerguelen's Land to Van Diemen's Land. Time. 1770. Dec. 2948 51 3° 49 8 '777« Jan. Latitude South. Longitude Eaft. 49 l9 48 37 48 20 348 I? 448 9 548 4 23 1645 12 1744 18 18 44 23 j j 12 69 39 7° 34 73 16 77 41 80 50 84 14 88 30 91 25 93 59 95 28 99 21 02 36 06 14 09 6 10 26 12 3 15 28 20 7 24 29 28 12 31 28 Variation Weft. 28 28 30 24 3° 47 3° J4 25 29 24 7r 23 37 7 34 9 o 6 o 44 4 45 40 38 4^ 46 474 48; 47 47: 48 48: 48-; 49 49 49 5fJ 54I .><>; 55 w o 3 Inches. 29,71 2944 2 9,54 3°>°5 3°523 3°>T5 30,28 29,78 29,70 29,68 29,86 29,67 29,78 29,70 29,66 29,20 29.36 29o"o 29,70 29,87 290 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S. E. Frefh gales, and fair weather. N. W. Frefh gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. W. S W. Squally, with fleet. SW. S. W. Moderate wind, and fair weather. IN. W. Ditto, ditto. No birds. |N. W. Frefli gales, and foggy. JN. W. b. N. Gentle breezes, and hazy I weather. C Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy, 5 with rain. ( Eafterly. Light breezes, and foggy ; rain J at times, rNorth.- Moderate wind, and thick fog. I Few birds. I N. N. E. Frefh breezes, and foggy, j Ditto. Frefli breezes, and foggy ; writh \ rain at times. (Ditto. Moderate wind, and hazy. Por-1 poifes, and fome birds. 5' Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy. Some birds. r Variable. Moderate wind, and foggy. I Birds, and porpoifes. t Wefterly. Frefh gales, and hazy. Pafled 1 rock-weed. fW. N. W. Ditto, and fome rain. Many I blue peterels. ] N. W. Briik wind, with drizzling rain. rN. W. Frefli gales, and cloudy wea-| ther. f N. b. E. Moderate wind, with clouds 1 at times. TABLE II. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Kerguelen's Land to Van Diemen's Land. Time. «777-Jan. i 943 22 Latitude. South. 5' °43 33V 43 23 43 3ll Longitude Eaft. r34 39 138 19 141 16 143 1 2343 4iji44 27 2443 47 2543 42i 2643 33" 147 o 147 24 147 42 Variation Weft. Eaft. I O 5 15 10 8 561 56 61 60: 55 58; 67 \ Indies. 29>55 29,40 29>95 30,09 30,02 30,26 3°'3° 3001 ther. J N. W. b. N. Gentle gale, and fair wea-/ ther ; fome lightning, r Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fan 29,95 < weather. Saw two turtle, and feveral [ logs of wood. Southerly. Squally and unfettled weather. Pafled feveral logs of wood. At half paft four P. M. faw New Zealand, S. E. IVariable. Light winds, and fair weather. A very heavy dew. Cape Farewell, in New Zealand, S. 64* W. and Murderer's Bay S. 34" E. 30,20 ' Vol. Hi. 3 S TABLE IV. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time, 1777. Feb. 264 27 4* 43 28 March 1 4* *7f 42 35 42 351 24 342 Latitude South. l8 ' 44 5 39 639 7 39 .1 io: 5°: 10 S39 939 1039 11 12 1435 17 24 3°* 26 39 5° 38 4*: 59i" ; 28 34 6; Longitude Ealt. 76 49 77 J7 78 43 80 8i 82 36 S5 5 87 26 89 21 91 J3 92 52 94 10 95 22 96 4 96 11 97 3° 98 43 98 97 Variation Eaft. 12 237 13 23 1 J3 10 49 10 18 63* 63f 64 58* 63I 60 64 6ot 66 68 69? 68 69 68; 68-66 68.; 69 tel. 3 3 Inches. 29>97 30,00 3°>°9 29>85 29,91 29.53 29.52 29,80 29.97 3°>I7 3°>3° 30,32 30,12 30,02 29,98 29,94 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ^Variable. Moderate wind, and fome-i times cloudy. Ditto, Moderate wind and cloudy weather. Eafterly. Moderate breeze, and fome clouds. N. E. Moderate wind, and fome rain. Many albatrofles. N. E. Light breezes, and fine weather. Egg birds. A fwel! from N. E. Variable. Brifkwiiid; fqually with rain at times. Saw a Port Egmont hen. Wefterly. Brifk wind, and fine weather PafTed rock-weed. S. W. Frefh gale, and fine weather. A S. W. fwell. Weed, &c. Wefterly. Frefli breeze, and fine weather. Whales. The fwell gone. N. b. W. Frefh breezes, and line weather ; fome ftiowers. N. b. W. Gentle breezes, and fine wea ther. A copious dew. N, b. W. Gentle breezes, and cloudy. A heavy dew. N. N. W. Gentle breezes, and fine weather. A ftrong dew. Northerly. Light airs, and fine weather. A heavy dew. Variable Light airs, and fair weather. Many porpoifcs. S. F. b. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy ; fome rain. Many porpoifes. S. E, Frefti breezes, and fqually; fome rain. Few birds. Eafterly. Frefli gales, and ftiowcry weather. TABLE IV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time. »777- March 1633 40 Latitude South. 33 H 1832 4 1930 29 20 29 4 1 27 44 2 26 52 325 59 25 22i 24 26^ 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° 23 40 23 7 22 44 22 13 21 541 20 26; 19 5*i Longitude Eaft. 199 6 199 19 200 14 200 54 201 15 201 30 201 34 201 8 201 30; 201 23 201 23 201 23 201 12 20i 40 201 49 201 34 202 50 Variation Eaft. 10 19 9 39 8 37 8 45 S 33 72 74 751 73* 731 75i 77\ 767 78 78 80 82' 79-; 80: 81 82 Inches Winds, Weather, and P.cmarks. j Northerly. Light winds, and drizzling 3°?°° I rain. {Variable. Small breezes, and cloudy weather. ("E. b. S. Moderate wind, and cloudy, 3°>10 \ with rain at times. 29,99 Latterly. Moderate wind, with fhowers. 29,97 I Latterly. Moderatebreezes,withmowers. I Eafterly. Gentle breezes, with cloudy 29,94 I weather. ^ JE. b. N. Light breezes, and clear. Egg -9»97 l and Tropic birds. S Eafterly. Light breezes, and clear wca-29>93 I t]lcr. Flying fifli. {E. N. E. Light breezes, and clear weather. Sharks, dolphin, and flying fifh. VE. N. E. Light breezes, and clear wea- 30.01 1 tiier< Tropic birds. I Eaft. Ditto weather. Some lightning. 30,03 ^ Saw Tropic birds, and caught two I fharks. 1 [ Eafterly. Light breezes, and fair wca-3°>00 I ther. Saw feveral dolphins. 30.02 j N. F*. Little wind, and mollly cloudy. 5 Eafterly, Light breezes, and line wea- 29>99 I ther. Saw land. ("Eafterly. Squally, with rain at times. 29.96 "j A large ifland, moderately high, S. Wj L three or four miles. Moderate wind, and fine wea- 29.97 \ oaw land, which proved to be fE. N. E. Moderati ,97 I ther. Saw land, L two iflands. f E. N. E. Little wind, and fine weather. 29>93 1 £reater ^an<^ oore S. 8o° EJ L diflant about four miles. 3 S 2 TABLE IV. Continued. ^oute of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand, to the Friendly Ifles. Time. ]777- April Latitude South. Longitude La It. Variation Eaft. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. § o 3 Inches. ■ E. N. E. Little wind and fine weather. \ 201 41 | 8 21 83^-30,02 i The larger illand, N. 700 E. diftant two miles. 3 Plying off the iflands of Watccoo, and Waiua-etc. Little wind, and fair weather. 9»9°~ I Eafterly. Little wind, and fine weather. 30,00 I E. N. E. Light airs, and cloudy. f Eafterly. • Little wind, with fhowers. 30,00 I Harvey s Ifle, S. \ E. diftant two miles. 29,98 j Ditto. Little wind, and variable weather. 29,91 Ditto. Light airs, and clear weather. 29,83 I Ditto. Almoft calm, with fhowers, {Variable. Squally. Thunder and lightning, with rain, f Ditto. Moderate wrind. Ditto weather. 29>b3 j Collecled five puncl leons of rain-water. f N. W. Moderate wind, and cloudy 29>°3 j with lightning. C Variable, Squally. Some lightning. 29'97 j Heavy rain. N. Eafterly. Little wind,, and rainy 29,90weather. Palmerfton's Ifland, N. b. E [ two or three miles. (Northerly. Light breezes, and fine wea-29>92 \ ther. A fwell from the S. 29,88 J Ditto, Light breezes, with fhowers. 0 \ N. W. Moderate wind, and fhowers. 29>b2 I Fifh and birds. P VN. W. Frefli-gales, and fhowers. Much 29>83 l fifh, and many birds. 29,96 j Variable. Little wind, with rain. {Ditto. Moderate wind. Thunder, lightning, and rain. C Ditto. Squally unfettled weather. Saw 29>94 j Savage Ifle. 29,90 1 Ditto. The fame weather. A '9 5i id .32 i3 1 5 19 16: 201 28 6 19 16 201 0 32T 19 27; 199 58 8 19 7 199 32 83 9 <8 57 199 12 7 16: 10 18 39: 198 24 825 11 18 20 197 20 81 12 18 10 197 20 81 l3 18 7 197 7 81 18 8J. I96 35 83 18 ii 4l 196 10 83! *9 ^95 9 80 2c 18 8 *93 59 83I 2 1 >8 37: 192 42 79 22 :f* 35 192 21 79 2; \'iB 51 191 0 79 2/ 19 25- 189 40 10 33 76 2 < ■ 19 47 188. 44 75 T A B L E IV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Queen Charlotte's Sound. New Zealand, to the Friendly Jfles. Time. Latitude South. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. Therm. Barom. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. '777-April 26 27 28 29 0 t 20 II* 20 38 20 28* i8°7 44 186 35 185 36 185 21 0 / 74* 76 8 if 80 Inches. 29,88 29,94 J 29,85 | 3°>°5 | Variable. Squally, with rain. "Ditto. Little wind and cloudy, with 1 rain. 'Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy. \ Saw the Friendly Ifles. "Ditto. Moderate wind, with fhowers. Annamooka; N. W. b. W. diftant about three leagues. T A B L E V. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Friendly Ifles to Otaheite. Time. Latitude South. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. Therm. Barom. 1777. ;-July 18 22 ' 7 0 *«5 10 0 / ro 0 Inches. 29>93 l9 22 26; 186 9t 8 42 69 3°>°3 20 22 28 186 41 7° 30,10 2 I 22 59^ 187 3 71 3°»I]t 22 24 4 187 59 72 30,12 23 24 5° 189 41 74 30,02 24 25 n 191 J9 73 i 30,03 25 25 45 192 21 8 47 74 30,20 26 26 87 *93 46 80 30,16 27 26 51; 194 45 7 S2 in 30,20 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Eaft. Brifk wind, and fqually, with rain. C Variable. Moderate wind, and fair 1 weather. SS. E. Light winds, and cloudy. Saw many dolphins. !Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair weather. Dolphins, j N. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. 5N. E. Moderate wind, and dark cloudy weather. !N. N. E. Moderate wind, and hazy, with rain. Saw a gannet. f N. N. \. Moderate wind, and fine I weather. jN. b. E. Moderate wind, and drizzling I rain at times. 1 N. N. E. Squally, with fhowers. TABLE V. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Friendly Ifles to Otaheite. Latitude 00 U til. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. H jj- bo to Time. « *» -1 3 -i o 3 1777 28 27 36 l95 55 8 l3 0 Inches. 3^13 29 28 7 l97 11 70 29,70 r 3° 28 6 198 55 6it 29>54 j 31 27 53 200 37 637 29,92 | Auguft 1 27 49 202 nt 7 44 67 30,00 | 2 27 28 203 50 7 8 697 3o,i3 { 3 27 43t 204 0 7*7 3°>l6 ! 4 27 337 205 35 67; 30,00 1 5 26 51 206 29 67; 30,u 6 25 537 207 40 ?i 30,21 7 25 9 208 58 7 37t 68t 30,25 j| S 23 56 210 *7t 7 21 66 30,22' 9 23 77 210 44 71 30,20 10 21 12 211 12 72 30,16 11 19 Hf 211 43 77 30,16 . 12 17 46 81 ' 3°>I7' i * i r Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. N. E. Brifk wind, and fair weather. Ditto. Brifk wind, and fhowers. Northerly. Strong gales, and fquall with rain. S. W. Moderate wind, and flying clouds. Swell from the S. S. W. refterly. Brifk wind, and fqually, wi fhowers. Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy, with fome rain. ram. S. W. Gentle breezes, and fine weather. S. W. Gentle breezes, and fome fhowers. S. W. A gentle breeze, and fine weather, mtherly. weather. Saw land (Toobouai) bearing N. N. E. S. E. E. b. S. A gentle breeze, and fine weather. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. Eafterly. Light winds, and fhowers. Oheitepeha Bay, in Otaheite, W. 7 S. diftant two or three leagues. TABLE VJ. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Society Ifles to Chriftmas Ifland. Time. 1777- Decern. 9 10 11 12 l3 16 *7 18 *9 20 21 22 2-3 24 25 26 Latitude South. '3 1 57t Longitude Ealt. 42t 207 41 32 207 34 45 207 7 1 206 20 l7 205 58 3 205 54 59 205 23 57 205 5 3° * 204 29 24 207 !9 561 204 9 32 203 39 203 9 34& 202 57 45N- 202 3B 202 33 202 34 Variation Eaft. 5 45 5 35 5 2i 5 5«4 5 19 5 7" 4 54 5 21 5 29 5 44 6 49 6 20 82 85 83 85 83; 83^ 84 84 85 84-; 83-: 82; 82^ 82 83 79 80 tti ft o 3 Inches. 29>97 29>93 29,92 30,00 29>93 29,91 29,90 29>83 29,88 29,88 29,90 29,88 29,91 29,93 -,0,07 30,08 29>99 30,09 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. E. b. N. Moderate wind, and fhowers. E. b. N. Gentle breezes, and pleafant weather. Squally, with fhowers. A light breeze, and fair Gentle breezes, and fair N. E. b. E. N. E. b. N. weather. N. E. h. E. weather. E. N. E. A frefli gale, and fome rain. Eaft. A frefh breeze, and fair weather. E. b. N. A light breeze, and clear. E. N. E. A frefh breeze, and fine weather. Tropic birds, egg-birds, and fheerwaters. Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fine wea* ther.' Many birds. E. b. N. A frefh breeze. Many birds. Eafterly. A frefh breeze, and palling clouds. Few birds, except terns, and egg-birds. E. b. N. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers. A few egg-birds. Eaft. A frefli breeze, and fine weather. Men-of-war, terns, and tropic birds. Eaft. Moderate wind, and fine weather. Many birds. E. S. E. Moderate wind. Chriftmas Ifle E. S. E, four miles. Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fine weather. Plying off the Ifle. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fine weather. At anchor off the. Weft fide of the ifland.. TABLE VII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Chriftmas Ifland to Sandwich Ifles. Time. Jan. i778. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. n 3 2 27 3 22 0 ' 202 36 202 35 4 4 8 202 45 5 4 56 203 O 6 5 48 203 12 5 53 7 6 43 203 54 8 7 45 205 0 6 46 9 812 205 12 6 47 10 9 3° 205 O ti 10 44 204 49 12 12 17 204 14 13 14 12 2 03 3 !4 is 58 202 8 15 16 17 40 19 0! 201 29 200 58 17 20 25 200 38 18 2 1 12 [ 200 41 19 2 1 50- 200 39 i H n 82, 83 78 S02 4 77 78, 82 83 i 83 79^ 79; 78 79; 78 77 o 3 Inches. 29>97 29>97 29,90 29,90 29,87 29>85 29,96 29>93 29,90 29,89 29>95 30,04 29,95 30,00 3°>»9 30,03 3°,I5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 79 3°,21 E. S. E. A frefli gale. Eafterly. Moderate wind ; fome rain. Ditto. Moderate breeze, and fair weather. Ditto. Light winds, and drizzling rain. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and fhowers. Many birds. Eafterly. A gentle breeze, and fome rain. Saw birds and drift-wood. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome rain. Strong current fetting N. E. Ditto. Light airs, and fine weather. E. N. E. Gentle breezes, with fhowers. Some birds. Eafterly. Light breezes, and fine weather. Saw a turtle. E. N. E. Gentle breezes, and fine weather. Many turtle, and birds. N. E. b. E. Frefli breeze, and fair weather. Ditto. A frefh gale, and fome fhowers. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto. N. E, b. E. A frefli gale, with fome rain. E. N. E. A frefli gale. Eafterly. A gentle gale, and fair weather Two iflands feen one bearing N. E. E and the other N. h. W. f W. Variable. Light airs, and fine weather. the extremes of the fecond ifland N. 7*W. and N. 8T ; W. Oft' fhore about two leagues. Route of the George's TABLE VIII. Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to King or Nootka Sound, on the Weft Coaft of America. Time. Feb. 2 I 323 1 83 10 11 12 Latitude North. 24 31 26 7; 27 41* 728 56 o 18 930 * 3 <.> H31 35 1532 29 l633 47 56 23 7 34 836 20 21 22 59 31 2*4 3° 58 3° "3 121 J937 25 38 7-1 39 6 40 iSi 2341 6i 2441 441 Longitude Ealt. 199 30 r99 37 199 26 199 44 200 19 200 6 01 3 202 5 203 14 205 22 206 19 206 o 2°5 59 205 24 205 24 205 24 2°5 59 206 16 207 31 209 41 212 14 2I4 59 217 10 Variation Eaft. II 21 12 IO l3 59 11 13 6 16 41 17 2 17 36 '8 59 77^ 78 76 77f 79 72" 731 63 58 59 591 62* 59 57 58 S5i 5^ 56.; 55t 56 53 54 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. 30,08 30,13 3°,J9 ' 3°,27 3°,29 30,26 3°,27 3°,3r 30,52 30,51 3°>46 30,45 30,46 30,46 30,58 30,59 30,48 30,35 30,20 3o,35 3o,37 Eafterly. Frefli breezes, and fair weather. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome rain. E. b. N. Frefh breezes ; fome rain. Paffed through the rippling of a current. I Eaft. A frefh gale, and fair weather, r Eafterly, A gentle breeze, and fome I rain. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers. Ditto. A frefli breeze, and fair weather. S. S. E. A light breeze, and drizzling i| rain. Saw a grampus. Variable, Moderate wind, and fhowers. SNortherly. Brifk wind. Cold, and cloudy weather. f N. N. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy, with ') ihowers. 1 E. N. E. Moderate wind, and dark gloomy j weather. rN. E. Light breezes, and cloudy wea-| ther. i'N. E. b. E. Light breezes, and fome mowers. Some birds. 1 Eafterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy, j E. N. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. !' E. S. E. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers, , f Southerly. Light winds, and fine wea-I ther. j Ditto. Gentle breezes, and cloudy. I S. S. E. Frefh gales, and fine weather. 5Ditto. Gentle gale, and clear weather. A ftrong dew. I Ditto. Gentle gale, and hazy. - Vol. Ill hp 3 1 TABLE VJII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to King George's or Nootka Sound, on the Weft Coaft of America. Time. Latitude North. 25-12 3li 2643 T7 2743 48 2844 1.7J Longitude Laft. March 144 49 2 44 54 3 44 32i 444 5 5 43 45 644 10 744 33\ 844 27-I-943 55 10 11 12 13 13 4° 13 44 13 6 I2 47 1443 l7 15 16 42 4oi 43 4 1,7:43 56 18)44 50 219 21 222 16 224 55 226 22 228 2 228 14 229 7 231 8 232 45 234 20 2 35 28 235 21 2 34 44 2 34 47 235 21 235 o 233 27 233 43 231 45 232 45 233 52 234 8 Variation Eaft. 20 33 20 17 18 49; 17 32* 17 43 567 5i7 49 49* 49T 44* 46 >L 5° 48 } 47; 43; 44a 42; 38; 38 40 n-1 * 46 47 46' 46, bd -t o 5 Inches. 30,28 3°>3J 3°>29 333 3°>34 30,00 29,86 29,98 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 3°>27 3?>\ 7 30,12 29,91 29,70 29,86 30,16 29,86 30,04 30,00 30,22 3°>°7 yS. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and hazy. Pafled a log of wood. _ S. S. E. Frefli breeze, and cloudy. S. E. b. S. Frefli breeze, and cloudy. i[ Pafled more wood. 1 Ditto. Gentle breezes, and cloudy weather. S. E. b. E. Moderate breeze, and cloudy. Variable. Light airs, and cloudy. N. N. E. Gentle breeze, and cloudy. North. A frefli gale, and flying clouds. Northerly. Moderate wind, and flying clouds. !N. W. Light airs, and hazy. Saw whales, i'eals, and drift-wood. Northerly. Light airs, and fair weather. Saw the coaft of America from N. N. E. to S. E. I E. about eight leagues off. Wefterly. Squally, with rain at times. \ W. N. W. Squally, with hail and rain t at times. JW. N. W. Very unfettled weather. I Hail, rain, and fleet. I N. W. Unfettled weather. Hail,rain, &c. {Wefterly. Very flrong gales, with hail, rain, and fleet. J"N. N. W. Frefli gales, and cloudy. 1 Snow and fleet. ( Wefterly. Squally weather. Hail, rain, [ and fleet. VN. W. b. N. Strong gales of wind, with \ fqualis of fnow and fleet. I N. W. Moderate wind ; fome rain. W. N. W. Moderate wind ; fome rain.. j Wefterly. Moderate wind ; fome rain. APPENDIX, No. I. 5° 7 TABLE VIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to King George's or Nootka Sound, on the Wefl Coafl: of America. Time. 1778 March 1944 56 204 1 45 51 22 Latitude North. 47 23 23 47 56 2447 41 48 30 2648 214, 47 56 2848 56 2949 29 d 19 36 Longitude Eaft. 233 58 234 6 234 8 235 5 234 17 234 7 232 41 232 28 231 24 232 12 233 26-J 233 18 Variation Eaft. l7 52 l6 41; 19 27 -T 3 46; *9.i 45i 44i 15 43 45 45 15 49 46; 45 a o 3 Inches (Variable. Light winds, and moftly 30>3* { cloudy. 30,17 1 Ditto. Light winds, and fair weather. (Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy ; fome 3°>°2 ' rain. "Ditto. Moderate wind, moftly cloudy ; 30,00 \ fome rain. Saw the land from N. b. I W. to E. b. S. (Wefterly. Strong gales, and unfettled 29>»5 I weather. f Ditto. Frefli gales, and rather unfettled 30»f7 I weather. (Variable. Frefh gales, and fqually, with 29»°3 j fleet at times. . \N. Wefterly. Frefli gales, and fqually; -9*9l I hail, rain, and fleet. 5Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy weather. 30,15 j Wefterly. Frefli gales, and cloudy. {Ditto. Light breezes, and fair wTea-ther. (N. W. b. \V. Light airs, and fine T O 2 I s <* * I weather. TABLE IX. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from King George's or Nootka Sound to Prince William's, along the Weflern coaft of America. Time. i778. April May 27 28 Latitude North. 49 39 50 295* 54 3°53 22t 1 54 43 256 50 358 17 458 22 5 53 4° 659 8 759 27 8 959 31 10 11 12 *3 59 11 59 51 59 33i 61 nl 60 49 Longitude Ealt. I460 19 231 31 229 26 226 54 225 14 224 44 224 6 222 14 220 45 220 5.8 220 19 219 7 217 41 217 o 215 56i 215 21 213 28 213 7 213 7 Variation Eaft. 21 12 24 19 24 II 26 I I 23 10 24 26 22 47 27 35 H 3 o 51 53 44i 45: 44 43-; 46 53 M j* &i 551 48 45 49 be o s Winds, Weather, and Remarks. inches, 29,40 29o4 29,38 29,40 29,62 30,08 29,94 29,96 30,16 3°>°4 29,96 29,88 29,86 29,58 29,60 29^52 29,92 29,80 J Eafterly. Strong gales, and thick wea-l ther. f S. Eafterly. Heavy fqualls, and fliowery I weather. I Ditto. Squally, with rain at times. ] Southerly. Ercfti gales, rain at times. ! S. Eafterly. Gentle gales, with fhowers. I E. S. E. Frefli gales ; fqually with rain. (Variable. ' Frefli gales, flying clouds, and ( fome rain. I N. W. Light airs, and fine weather. ;W. N. W. Light breezes, and fair weather. C Variable. Light airs, and pleafant wea I ther. 5Northerly. Light airs, and clear weather. {Variable. Light breezes, and clear weather. I Ditto. Light airs, and fine weather. {Ditto. Light breezes, and fine clear weather. Ditto. Light breezes, and fine weather. Eafterly. Light breezes, and cloudy. 'Ditto. Frefh breezes, and gloomy wea-• i ther. :S. Eafterly. Frefli gales, and thick foggy weather, with rain. At anchor in Prince William's Sound. TABLE X. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Prince William's Sound to Cook's River, along the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. Latitude Nor tli. Longitude Eaft, Variation Ealt. Therm. Barom. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1778. May 18 l9 20 11 22 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° 31 June 1 0 / 60 30 60 3 Go 0 59 3°t 58 22 59 9 5$ Hi 58 4** 59 9i 59 20 59 5°i 60 8 60 37 61 11 61 57 0 ✓ 2 12 211 212 12 2 11 40 210 6 208 42 208 47 207 59 207 39 206 50 207 20 207 24 207 36 208 3 208 45 209 24 0 ✓ 23 37 23 42 0 5° 4^: 41 41-; 44 41, 44* 44 44 46: 42 46 47 Inches. 29,71 ! 29,67 ■ 29,72 29,92 30,12 3°>25 3I7j 29,98 29,77 29,72 29,57 1 N. W. A gentle breeze, and clear weather. 'Variable. Light breezes and fair wea-| ther. Ditto. Light airs, and thick weather. Ditto. Moderate wind, and fair weather. Wefterly. Frefh gales, and fair weather. Ditto. Frefh gales, and fair weather. Ditto. Light breezes, and fair weather. Northerly. Frefli gales. Variable. Frefh gales. N. W. Strong gales, and thick hazy [ weather, with rain. Latterly. Light breezes, and hazy wea-[ ther. Variable. Frefh gales, and drizzling rain. Northerly. Light winds. Ditto. . Light winds, and drizzling rain. Calm, with fair weather, and drizzling I rain alternately. . APPENDIX,- No. I. T ABLE XI; Route of the Resolution and Dilcovery from Cook's River to Samga noodha Harbour, in the ifland Gonalafhka. Time. 1773. June '7 8 Latitude North. 53 5 57 52; 9 57 42 10 11 12 57 20 57 5 57 J3 56 49 1456 22^ J55<5 23 16 17 1 20 21 22 24 2 5 26 27 28 J* 5 55 33 55 25 18 9 55 54 44 54 17' 53 5 s 23 53 54 *3 54 4 53 46 53 51 53 55 Longitude Eaft. 207 45 207 54 207 39 207 25 207 33 206 12 205 40 205 27 202 51 201 10 200 48 200 42 99 16 97 29 97 11 96 34 95 5° 95 14 94 59 94 1 93 35 93 28 Variation Eaft. to 31 20 22 22 32 47t 5° 46 46 45 48; 491 49~ 45 44 44* 47 47 48 5° 53 5° 47 45 46 43 Inches. 3°>32 3°>23 30,17 3°»TI 29»97 30,02 29,98 29,50 29,91 3°>°7 30,06 29>85 29,81 29,72 29,68 29,52 29,80 29>75 29,80 29,80 29,70 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and fair weather. iS. E. b. S. Moderate wind, and drizzling rain, jS. E. b. S. A gentle breeze, and mifly \ weather. JS. E. Moderate wind, drizzling rain, I and thick foggy weather. J Southerly. Moderate breeze, and foggy, 1 with drizzling rain. I W. S. W. Frefli breezes, and hazy weather. {Ditto. Frefli breezes, and clofe cloudy weather. !Southerly. Frefli gales, and foggy ; rain at times. !Variable. Frefh gales, and foggy, rain at times. Weflerly. Light winds, and clear weather. Variable. Light wii.ds, and fine weather. Ditto. Light winds, and fine weather, i N. E. Light breezes, and fair weather, f N. W. b. N, Light breezes, and fair l weather. 1 Wdterly. Light airs, and line weather, 5 Variable. Light winds, and hazy ; fome t rain. ) W. S. W. A frefli gale, and cloudy j fome I rain. 1 Variable. Light winds, and hazy weather. { Eafterly. Light winds, and thick foggy I weather, J S. S. E. Frefli gales, and foggy. iNortherly. Light breezes. Came to an anchor off Samgauoodha Bay. -_— ■---t—■—■-i TABLE XII. Route of the Refoluiion and Difcovery from Samganoodha Bay to Brifto! Bay, along the Weftern Coafl: of America. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Variation Eait. Therm. —- to » •1 0 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 177H. July 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 !3 14 15 16 *7 18 J9 0 , 54 J9 55 12 55 49i 5<> 3° 56 55 57 61 57 16 57 497 58 i8i 58 0 53 1*7 53 I3t 58 12 58 22 58 28 58 54 59 *7 59 3° * l93 33 195 24 *97 5 *98 43 199 36 200 16 200 48 201 42 200 39 200 34 200 33 199 0 198 56 *98 39 197 46 r97 25 197 36 197 45 0 / 26 13 22 49 22 32 47 46 44 42i 42 5° 47 44 5i 48 51 50 52 52 52; 55 54 63 Inches. 3°>24 29,78 29,67 -29,68 29>73 ; 30,01 29,98 3°>J3 30,11 ! 30,16 | 30,10 < 30,10 3o»17 30,28 3°>3° 30,17 29,85 j 1 E. S. E. Light airs, and fine weather. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. 'Southerly. Moderate wind, and thick [ weather. Eafterly. The fame weather. ' Variable. Light winds, and foggy, with 1 rain. Northerly. Light winds, and hazy. Variable. Light winds, and fine weather. Ditto. Light winds, and line weather. "Ditto. A gentle breeze, and fair weather. ' Southerly. Light winds, and foggy, with drizzling rain. "Variable. Light winds, and hazy; thunder and lightning. Wefterly. Light winds, and fine weather. Wefterly. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. Light winds, and foggy at times. Variable. Light airs, and fine weather. Ditto. The fame weather. S. W. Light winds, and fair weather. At anchor oft* Cape Newnham. 512 APPENDIX, No, I, Route of the T A B L E XIII. Refolution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. i778. July Aug. 3° 31 Latitude North. 2358 43 2458 7 2558 25-*-2658 37 2759 11 2859 55 2960 21 60 21 61 ii 61 57* 61 55 3^2 34 4<53 53 5 $4 3° 664 39 764 48 865 o 965 48 Longitude Lait. 96 45 94 22 92 13 91 36 90 57 90 o 87 35 88 11 89 22 90 47 91 44 92 20 94 0 93 48 93 1 92 42 92 30 91 42 Variation Eaft. 18 40 53 49-r 50; 53 5i 54 48 55 4.6 54 495 55 52 50, 49 |8 JO w o s "Winds, Weather, and Remarks. laches. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. 29,73 'j Cape Newnham N. 390 E. diftant about ten leagues. > JE. N. E. Moderate wind, and mifty ^ I weather. r~ J Northerly. Moderate wind, and thick 29> J fog. 86 \ ^a^-er^* Little wind, and thick fog. 29> j Many whales, and birds. q C Northerly. Little wind, and foggy. 9> 4 1 Many birds, and feals. SN. Eafterly. Light winds, and foggy weather. f Northerly. Light winds, and foggy, 29>54 j with rain. Many birds. 29,64 j Ditto. Light winds, and moftly foggy. Q ("Variable. Little wind, and foggy wea-2^>5b { ther. ~ J Eafterly. Light winds, and cloudy: -/' 3 J fome rain. {Variable. Light winds, and cloudy, with rain. oqi j Ditto. Light breezes, and cloudy : fome ram. 30,00 i Eafterly. Moderate wind, with rain. r f Variable. Moderate wind, and foggy, ( with rain. n^ J Southerly. Moderate breeze, and foggy, 29>,o j with rain. o r J Wefterly. Little wind, and thick mifty \ weather. _ J Variable. Little wind, and foggy, witl 29,/° 1 rain. !N. Eafterly. Frefh breeze, and foggy fome rain. TABLE XIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft, Therm. 1778. 0 , 0 Aug. iq 65 36 18915 27 22 45 11 66 5i 1,91 19 46 12 66 20' 191 6 30 41 51 «3 66 32^ 192 0 27 *5i 50 14 67 28 l94 33 45i *5 68 18 x93 1 48 16 69 57 x93 41 35 32 42 l7 7° 33 *97 35 35 1 35 18 70 44 198 24 33t »9 70 6 196 32 33t 20 70 4 196 0 38; 21 69 32 -95 48 31 3 42 22 69 34 194 42 44 23 69 33t 194 20 44 24 69 30 190 23 35 25 69 38 187 30 21 44 40 26 69 36 184 0 23 20 371 27 69 33* 183 30 4U 28 69 17 182 40 25 56 35 £ 5 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. - (Northerly. Frefh gales, and fair wea-3°>°6 \ ther. {Southerly. Light winds, and fine wea-ther. 7 : SVariable. Light winds, and fair weather. !Northerly. Light breezes, and fine weather. JS. Eafterly. A frefh breeze, and hazy; °'18 I fome rain. {Southerly. Frefh gales, and foggy, with rain. 29,85 1 Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy weather. {Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy 3°>I01 weather. {Ditto. Frefh gales, and foggy; with fnow and fleet, f Ditto. Frefh gales, and hazy j with fnow 3°>°7 1 and fleet. J Ditto. Frefli breezes, and foggy wea-ther. 29,76 i Northerly. Light winds, and thick fog. I Variable. Light breezes, and foggy 29>73 I weather. 29,57 1 E^tt0' Light breezes, and thick fog. 30 10 Y^' ^e^erty* Moderate wind, and foggy; 2 8 J Wefterly. Frefh gales, with fhowers of 9* 0 l fnow and rain. Vol. III. fome fnow. refterly. fnow an< - I Ditto. Frefli breezes, and cold raw '9>9 I weather. r S Variable. Frefh gales, and cloudy; cold, 29>oe> I and fome rain. , I Ditto. Light winds, and mifty weather; 29>9<> j fome rain._ 3 u' T A B L E XUI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Briftol Bay to Norton Sound, on the Weftern Coaft of America. Time. 1778. Aug. 29 Sept. 3° 31 1 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 Latitude North, 68 49 68 li-j 65 6 67 30 66 377 65 28 464 38; 64 8 63 55*- 64 16 64 27 64 341 64 33 Longitude Eait. 81 26 82 32 85 39 87 i5 89 20 89 5 88 15 89 57 93 3° 94 20 96 3 97 4i 97 3° Variation Eait. 27 57* 24 53 26 53 25 59 HI n ~. 3 37 33 35 35 34 44 39 391 43 46 45! 46,' 3 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 0 (Variable. Frefli breezes; hazy: fome 29>89| rain. (N. Wefterly. Frefli breezes, and foggy 3 3°>10 [ with much fnow. !N. W. b. N. Moderate wind, and hazy fome fnow. Moderate wind, with fnow and and much (North. °>2°i fleet. (N. N. W. Light winds, 3°i°7 I fnow. J N. N. W. Moderate wind ; fhowers of 9>97 1 fnow. r (Northerly. Light winds, and fine wea-29'76 I ther. 7 „ (N. N. W. Light winds : the air dry 29>84| and cold. r, tN. N. W. Light winds, and fairw ca-3>66i ther. 29,84 I Variable. Light airs, and fine weather. 30,00 I Wefterly. The fame weather. !S. Wefterly. Frefli breezes, and fojrgy ; iome rain. {Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. In Norton Sound. TABLE XIV. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Norton Sound to the Iiland of Oonalafhka. Time. 1778. Sept. 17 ib 19 20 21 Latitude North. Longitude Eait. 64 10 C)3 37 63 43 63 37 62 58 2261 45 23 24 25 26 2/ 28 29 3° 1 60 214 59 53 31 53 3^ 53 36 58 2 57 0 96 30 55 29 54 2t 53 59 98 30 97 45 96 12 92 12 90 17 89 o 87 30 39 5 9° 5^ 89 15 39 43 90 28 92 2 92 50 93 0 92 27 Variation Eaft. n 3 22 23 l9 59 46: 42: 49 38 39 39 40 40 44 441 45t 49 50 So 47 45 47 CO o 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. 29,78 Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather 29,90 Ditto. Light winds, and fine weather. 'Variable. Moderate wind, and fair wea-29'97\ th«r. 29,73 | N. Eafterly. Frelh gales, and palling clouds. r j Northerly. Frefli gales, with fhowers of 29>°7 I fnow. 5N. Wefterly. Gentle gales, with fhowers of fnow. IN. W. A frefli breeze, and cloudy cold 29>95 I weather. ?Variable. Moderate wind, and dry cloudy weather. {Southerly. Strong gales, and cloudy, hut mild weather. !S. S. E. Frefli gales, and hazy weather; fome rain. f S. S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy : s> j ^ lome rain. ? Southerly. Light winds, and moftly fair 9>4* j weather. S. W. Frefli gales, with fhowers of fleet and rain. 29,69 j {Variable. Light winds, and fome fhowers. Many whales. 29,77 ! Wefterly. Light airs, and fome fhowers SWefterly. Light airs, and fhowery weather. Wefterly. Light breezes. Standing into 30,47 « Samganoodha harbour, in the ifland of Oonalafhka. TABLE XV. Route of the Refolution and Difcc ;iy from Oonalafhka to Sandwich Ifle:. Time. Latitude North. >a. 2754 s 2853 59 2953 52 3°53 45 3*52 1 '49 55 248 31 348 1 4 45 44; 544 31 642 294 741 10 840 38 9 39 36 10 11 12 Longitude Eaft, 39 10 33 38 3814 1336 6 H34 39 r533 33 191 41 194 5<5 196 2 197 10 198 28 «W 51 200 36 201 27 202 2 202 17 202 36 203 16 205 o 206 17 206 33 206 46 206 57 Variation Eaft. l9 59 17 *5 16 5 43; 44 39 33 39 41 43 46 49 5° 55 59 58 64 65 67 62 63 69 u pi o 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30,01 I Variable. Strong gales, with rain, ^o 5 S. Wefterly. Strong gales, with hail and 29> 0 1 rain. \ Variable. Very ftrong gales, with hail 3°>°5 l and rain. (Weft. Strong gales, with fhowers of 29>5° 1 fnow and ram. ( Weft. Strong gales in fqualls, with fnow 3°>4° I and fleet. !Wefterly. Strong gales, with hail, fnow, and fleet. r Ditto. Frefh gales, with thick rainy ~9>95 j weather. 29?5° I Southerly* Strong gales, with rain. ( W. b. S. Strong gales, with fhowers of 9>92 \ hail. 29,40 I Variable. Frefli gales, and rainy weather. {N. W. Moderate wind, and foggy weather. { S. W. Light winds, and fome rain. Saw 3°>25 I a fhagg. 30,21 1 Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. 30,17 j North. Light winds, with rain. {-Variable. Light winds, with flying 3°>36 j clouds. f South. Moderate wind, and moftly 3°>48 j cloudy, r South. Moderate wind, and moftly 3°>3I ] doudy, rWefterly, Frefli gale, and hazy, with 3°'33 j fbme rain. {N. b. E. Light winds, and cloudy wea-ther. {E. N. E. Light winds, and moftly cloudy. _ TABLE XV. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Oonalafhka to Sandwich ifles. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. H n § cd w 0 0 3 Inches. 3°>35 | 3°,45 3°,32 3°>r5 30,17 1 30,21 -30,31 30,30 30,26 30,22 30,16 | Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 177B-Ncv. 16 18 l9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 32 47 32 26 32 41 32 27 3° 23 27 53 26 r|t 24 49 22 36 20 577 20 57 0 s 206 57 206 51 207 52 206 44 205 5* 206 28 206 25 206 0 205 30 204 38 203 28 0 / 11 57 0 69 76 74 71 65 67 68» 78 81; 8ii N. Eafterly. Light winds, and cloudy. Several dolphins. Eafterly. Light winds, and fine weather. S. S. E. Moderate wind, and fine weather. Southerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Variable. Strong gales, with rain. Northerly. Strong wind, and fhowery weather. North. Light winds, with fhowers. Northerly. Light winds, and fine weather. E. N. E, A frefli breeze, and line weather. Eafterly. Frefh gales with fhowers. Ditto. Frefh breeze, and fine weather. Sandwich Ifles, from E. by the S. to W. TABLE XVf. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul in Kamtfchatka. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. Variation Eaft. O e 10 4 9 10 H O 1 3 fcd -t 0 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks* »779-March 15 16 18 JS 2C 0 ' 21 47 2 I 27 21 18 21 12 21 II 20 52 0 / *99 37 198 50 197 2 195 26 194 28 193 22 0 75 74 fSi 77 741 75-: Inches. 3°>x5 ' 30,17 3°»2o 3°>2i " 3°>l6 | 30,12 | 1 Oneeheow, from N. E^v E. to Eaft ; and TBahoora, S. W. L W. about three leagues diftant. Eafterly. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. E. N. E. Freih breezes, and fair weather. N. E.. b. E- Moderate wind, and fair weather. N. Eafterly. Moderate wind* and faii\ Many boobies* N, N. E, Light wind, and fair weather. Many iharks.. i T A B L E XVI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, in Kamtfchatka. Time. "779* March 21 22 23 24 25 26 April 28 Latitude North. Longitude Eaft. 20 37 20 27 19 56 19 53 19 4b 719 49'; 20 6 29 3° 31 1 2 n 10 20 16 20 21 20 35 21 14 22 36 24 3^ .426 21 528 33 30 13 73° H B 30 39 932 16 33 3o\ 92 13 90 44 88 22 86 o 84 12 8;, 9 82 29 8l 23 80 59 80 25 79 47 79 31 77 20 75 21 73 36 71 47 70 13 68 15 67 4 66 39 66 o Variation Eaft. i i 26 II 5I I i 14 12 8 II 21 9 9 77 77 78 81 73 85: 83 78 80^ 79 76 75: 73 71 69 59 62 67 ^3 Indies. 30,2 1 3°>24 30,21 30,18 30,16 30,10 30,06 30,00 30,00 3°>°7 30,10 30,20 30,21 30,12 29,98 3°>24 3°>42 3°>42 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. J E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fair wea-l ther. Several bonctos about. E. b. N. Moderate wind, with fome rain. N. E. b. E. Frefli breezes, with rain. E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fome rain. I Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair wrea-[ ther. Several men-of-war birds, ji Eafterly. Light winds, and fair weather. I Tile birds remain with us. j Eaft. Light winds, and fine weather, \ E. N. E. Light winds, and line weather. \ Many men-of-war birds, f Eafterly. Light winds, and fine weather, t Boobies, and men-of-war birds. J Southerly. Light winds, and fome rain. I Porpoifes, dolphins, and birds. ? Southerly. Light airs, and hot fultry \ weather, SEafterly. Light winds, and cloudy. Dolphins, and men-of-war birds. (N. Eafterly Frefli gales, and fcjually f weather. Palled a turtle. I N. Eafterly. Frefli gales, and cloudy, JE. N. E. Frefh gales, and hazy, with I rain ; fome lightning, j Eafterly. Frefti gales, and hazy, with rain. I Variable. Frefti gales, with rain. jN. b. W. Frefti gales, and fqually, with I rain. Saw an albatrofs. {N. Eafterly. Frefti breezes, and cloudy ; fome rain. }' S. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair weather. r Variable. Light winds, and cloudy ; ) fome rain. T ABLE XVI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Sandwich Ifles to the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, in Kamtfchatka. Time. >779- April 11 I 2 Latitude North. 37 IO 21 22 l3 39 3° J44° 53 J54x 52 1642 12, r743 18 18 46 9 1948 40 2049 48 5° 25i 5i 38 ^2 11 Longitude HalL 52 30 24 25 52 4° 26 52 35 27 2852 45 45 65 3° 64 34 63 20 62 13 60 42 59 4i 60 o 60 48 61 14 61 30 61 48 60 7 59 37 59 40 59 3° 59 43 59 43 160 o Variation Eaft. H Br 6 20 9 331 62 50 49 45 42 41 4i 37 31 32 36 30 30 3° 3o; 29* 29 + 34 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. inches. SSoutherly. Frefh breezes, and fqually ; fome rain. J Variable. Frefli gales, and hazy ; fome 3°'42 I rain. Birds. V Eafterly. Frefli gales, and hazy, with J »33 ( rain. Some divers. 29,94 I ^' Strong wind, with rain and hail. 30,30 j N. Eafterly. Strong gales, and cloudy. - (Northerly. Light winds, and cloud) 3°,3» I weather. f Northerly. Moderate wind, and clouds 3°'3J I weather. 29,67 I Variable. Frefli gales, with rain. 29,80 Southerly. Frefli gales, with fnow. 29,83 j S. W. Moderate wind, and fnow at times f Northerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy 3°»°5 j with fhowers of fnow. 30,16 j N. Eafterly. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. (" N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. 3°»I7 j Saw the continent of Alia. N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy, with fleet. 30,55 j N. E. Frefli gales, and hazy, with fleet 29,90 I N. E. Frefh gales, with much fnow. ;N. Eafterly. Frefh gales, and foggy, with fnow. f N. N. E. Moderate breezes, with fleet. I The North point forming the entrance 3°jix <> juto t}ie j™ Gf Sfc Peter and Paul, bore N. 490 Weft, diftant about three leagues. 3fM3 j TABLE XVII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that Place. Time. Latitude North. Longitude Eait. Variation La it. Therm. '779- 0 / 0 , 0 ✓ 0 June 17 52 46 159 ii 7 59t 49t 18 52 39 159 42 8 59 42; 19 53 59 l6l 17 46 .20 54 53l l62 48 45 21 55 5*1 163 42 47: 22 56 48 164 45 52 23 57 11 165 47 48T 34 58 i9t 167 20 13 Mi 461 *5 59 8 168 16 13 10 5o1 26 59 27 170 46 44i 27 59 52 *75 44 13 3o 43 28 61 56 176 2 17 19 5oi 29 62 4 178 24 44: 3° 61 49 180 17 4i; July 1 62 10 181 13 44 2 62 38 182 49 45 3 *>3 35 186 57 44 1 64 33 188 51 26 53 42 5 65 42 189 47 42; 6 67 0 191 34 40 td &> o 3 Inches. 29 29 29 2 2 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. {Variable. Light winds, and hazy, with fome rain. JS. E. b. E. Light winds, and foggy 9>92 I weather. $ S. S. W. Light winds, and thick foggy 29^95 \ weather. [ S. b. W. Frefh gales, and foggy weather. 9>97 I Many birds. J Variable. Moderate wind, and hazy 3°>°3 I weather. 29,75 Variable. Moderate wind, and fome rain. 30,03 Variable. Light winds, and foggy. f S. S. W. Moderate wind, and foggy at 9>9*{ times. 1 f Southerly. Light winds, and foggy at >0j0e> \ times. rS. W. b. S, Moderate wind, and very 30,07 l foggy. VS. W. Frefh gales, and foggy. Many '96 I gulls. , j S. W. Moderate wind, and hazy. Birds ' 0 1 and drift-wood. (Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy ; 9»43 l fome rain. f Ditto. Light breezes, and hazy wea-,her. {Variable. Light winds, and foggy; fome rain. 29,82 i Southerly. Light winds, and thick fog. 30,09 j S. E. Moderate wind, and moftly foggy. 30,16 ; S. E. Light winds, and foggy, at times. ("Southerly. Light airs, and foggy. Many 3°s°7 j whales and birds. q JS. b. F^. Moderate wind, arl hazy. Met * 7 { with ice. 29 TABLE XVJI. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that Place. Time. 1779' July 7 8 9 10 11 12 «3 15 16 *7 18 l9 20 21 22 25 26 Latitude North. 68 22 69 25 69 11 68 1 67 5* 68 41 69 29 69 37 69 36 69 55 69 55 70 26 o 11 69 37 69 37 69 27 2 #9 3 2468 51 68 38 67 59 Longitude Laft.. 92 l8 92 39 88 54 88 50 89 21 89 o 88 10 89 4 90 17 93 7 95 H 96 18 97 4 95 1 93 7 88 35 87 29 88 37 90 2 88 27 Variation Eaft. 27 22 21 39 29 28 27 32 26 10 35 37 31 20 28 59 21 48 37 32 32 39 38 37 36 41 35 32 36i 37 37 41 44 48 37 37 35' 39 Ctf o 3 Inches. 29 29 2 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Southerly. Moderate wind, and foggy; ith rain. Sea-horfes. ' r ' fSoutl '67{ wi !Variable. Light winds, and foggy, with fnow and rain. !N. b. W. Frefh gales, and hazy, with fnow, and cold weather. {N. W. Light winds, and foggy, with 9>52 I fnow. a CN. Eafterly. Light winds and foggy, 9>4 I with fnow and fleet. 29,18 I Northerly, Light winds, rain and fleet 29,78 j Variable. Moderate wind, rain and fleet. r f Eafterly. Light wrinds, and foggy, with 9' 7 I rain and fleet. {Variable. Light winds, and thick foggy weather. * r JS. Wefterly. Strong wind and foggy. >00 i wi 29 with fnow and fleet. Vol. III. V S. Wefterly. Frefli gales, with fnow and 29>5° i fleet. 2c 80 loanable. Light winds and foggy, with 9y I fnow and fleet. {Ditto. Light winds, and thick foggy weather. 29,90 ( Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy. !Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy weather. 29,46 i Eafterly. Frefli gales, with rain. f Eafterly. Moderate wind, and foggy 1 weather. {Variable. Moderate wind, and foggy ; fome rain. 29,97 t S. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and foggy o \ Southerly. Frefh gales and cloudy 29»?b I ther._ . 3 X wea- TABLE XVII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul toward the North, and back to that place. Variation Eaft. Therm. Barom. o , 0 Inches. 37 29,80 43 29,86 42 29,80 42 29,60 22 $1\ 42 29,82 I9 47 40 29>79 24 38 47 29>73 45 29,61 41 29>57 4^f 29,46 43 29>75 18 25 44 45 2 9.5° 48 28,95 48 28,94 i1 34 49» 29^5 11 11 51 29,40 5° 29)77 48 29.93 48 51 29,96 29,84 Time. Latitude North. ^779' July 2767 47 28 67 9 2966 50 3° 31 Aug. 9 10 11 12 13 66 20 65 5 64 25I 64 1 364 5 464 o 562 18 660 47 759 35 8 59 5 '58 49 58 26 57 25 96 28 J5 23 Longitude Eaft. M54 50 15 54 10 , 16(54 22 I 88 27 89 46 90 52 91 20 89 20 89 45 89 57 89 26 88 11 86 1 84 31 83 3° 80 42 77 4 74 18 72 41 71 46 70 50 71 26 71 14 70 40 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. rain. rS. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair SNortherly. Moderate wind, and foggy: fome rain. [ Variable. Light winds, and foggy wea-) ther. { ther. I Southerly. Light winds, and foggy. (Northerly. Frefh gales, and hazy, with rain. !Wefterly. Frefti gales, and hazy: fome rain. !Ditto, Moderate wind, and hazy : fome rain. j Southerly. Frefli gales, and fair weather. autherly. Frefti gales, and foggy : with rain. amble. Moderate wind ; fome rain. J Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy; foinc rain. Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy weather. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy fome rain. T A B L E XV] I. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Patil toward the North, and back to that place. Longitude Eait. Variation Eait. Therm. 168 ig 9 55 » 50 167 50 52 165 21 49» 162 40 52 16.38 57 160 36 6 18 57 160 10 6 12 56 ■58 4;,-; 6 20■ 57 Time. 1779. Aug- 1753 48 Latitude North. l%* 38 >MJg> 3s 20 53 7 53 45 53 8 23 52 46 2452 52 21 22 w u -t o 3 Inches. 30,02 3°>°5 20,66 3°>°3 29,90 29>97 29,92 30,13 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. | N Wefterly. Moderate, and fair weather, f Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fair 1 weather. {Southerly. Frefli gales, and cloudy, with rain. {Variable. Frefti gales, and cloudy weather. f S. W. Moderate wind, and hazy wea-[ ther. {Variable. Light winds, and cloudy; fome rain. I Wefterly. Light winds, and cloudy. N. W. b. N. Moderate wind, and fair weather. In the bay of St. Peter and Paul. TABLE XVIII. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul to Macao in China, Time. '779- Oft. 10 11 12 Latitude North. 52 38 52 5 51 o *349 49 4 48 5 46 J7 31 Longitude Eaft. 158 37 I58 30 I57 22 J5<> 47 l5S 3° i55 20 Variation Eaft. 6 20i 6 3 5 17 4 49 5 14 60 47 46 42 43 44 o b Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. Q I N. W. b. N. Light winds, and fine wea-29>7y j ther. 29,93 ] Variable. Moderate wind, and cloudy, j Northerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy; 3 I lbme rain. iVariable. Moderate wind, and fine wea ther. 0 { Wefterly. Moderate wind, and line wea-29>8ol ther. 30,09 i Ditto. Moderate wind, and fome fhowers 3 X z TABLE XVIII. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul to Macao in China. Time. 1779. Od. 16 Latitude North. Nov. 4-5 27 45 7 44 28 *944 *5 J7 18 Longitude Eait. £043 47 2142 40 2240 59 23 24 25 26 27 28 4° 35 40 48 40 25 40 5 39 l6t 38 15 29 3° 31 1 37 45 36 41 35 33 35 J7 2J35 43 336 29 435 4? J 5 35 ?5 r55 23 153 47 152 46 150 36 150 24 149 20 148 o 39 145 3° 144 2 142 25 H3 2 142 6 141 50 !42 3 H2 3 141 29 144 48 H6 33 147 18 Variation Eaft. 4 39 4 54 2 27 o 49 ° J5 1 17 1 20 1 41 3 H H 2 cW 47 48 5° 5° 49 45 44 S* 59 53 i 62 62 62 64 60 63 69 71 73 75 70 td -1 o 3 Inches. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. !' Wefterly. Moderate wind, and fine wea-ther. (N. Wefterly. Light winds, and fine 3°>x4 j weather. - I Wefterly. Moderate wind, and cloudy; 3°>2 J with fhowers. {Southerly. Strong gales, and cloudy; fome rain. !Ditto. Moderate wind, and thick hazy weather. 29,92 j Variable. Strong gales, with rain. i N. Wefterly. Frefti gales, and fair wea-30>!5 I ther. 30,36 I Variable. Light winds, and cloudy. 29,96 S. Wefterly. Frefh gales, with rain. fVariable. Frefh gales, and hazy: fome 10voo 1 0 J I rain. {Variable. Moderate wind, and fair weather. Saw the coaft of Japan. Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy. Saw Eaft coaft of Japan. f Ditto. iI4 29,78 29,68 29,80 29,40 29,81 3°,°5 30,18 33I 3°>34 30>24 30,16 30.10 3°>°4 29,91 29>99 30,01 30,08 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. I Variable. Moderate wind, and fome 1. fhowers. 1 Ditto, Frefh breezes, and fair weather. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. I Northerly. Light winds, with rain. 5Ditto. Frefh gales, and thick rainy weather. !Ditto. Frefli gales, and dark rainy weather. !N. N. E. Strong gales, and thick rainy weather. {N. W. Strong wind, and foggy, with rain. {Northerly. Moderate wind, and fine weather. j Ditto. Moderate wind, and fine wea-1 ther. 5Eafterly. Moderate wind, and line weather. {Variable. Moderate wind, and fine C weather. I Northerly. Frefti gales, and cloudy. {N. E. b. N. Frefh gales, and cloudy, with fhowers. I E. N. E. Frefti gales, with fome fhowers. I F. N. JE. Moderate wind, with fhowers. ; N, E. Frefti gales, with rain. !N. E. Strong gales, and rainy weather. j N. E. Frefti gales, and much rain, j N. N, E. Strong wTind, with rain. !N. N. E. Frefti gales, and cloudy; fome rain. !Northerly. Frefh gales, and hazy; fome rain. _ ■ T A B L E XVII I. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from the Bay of St. Peter and Paul, to Macao in China. Time. Latitude Ncrth. Longitude EaiL Vacation EaiL H h i a t> ►1 0 •3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. »779-Nov. 28 0 t 20 42 I l6 42 0 / Inches. 3°**4 | N. N. E. Frefli gales, and cloudy; fome rain. 29 3° 21 58; 21 57 115 54 114 9 71 69 30,15 30,20 ' N. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy. N. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy ; fome rain. Dec. 1 ^7 3°>27 j N. b. E. . Frefli breezes, and cloudy ; fome rain. 2 22 8 "3 43 O 32W. 66 3o»3o | Variable. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. At anchor at Macao. TABLE XIX. Route of the Pvefolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. Jan. 13 H 15 16 1 18 l9 20 Latitude North. 20 34 18 57 16 39 39 714 12 32 10 22 8 46 Longitude EaiL Variation Wefl. 13 53 14 3 !4 5 13 13 12 o 09 43 06 45 0 394 1 24^- 68 72 69; 73 75 73 73 Inches. 30,26 3°»23 30,15 30,17 30,10 30,25 30,26 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. C The Typa diflant three miles. The Grand 1 Ladrone E. diftant five or fix miles. !N. Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fair weather. !E. N. E. Moderate wind, and fair weather. CN. Eafterly. Brifk wind, with fome J rain. I Ditto. Frefti gales, and cloudy ; fome [ rain. J N. E. b. N. Frefli gales, and cloudy ; I fome rain. !N. N. E. Frefh gales, and fqually weather. 1 N. E. Frefh gales, and fair weather. TABLE XIX. Continued. . Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. [an. 21 29 3° 31 Feb. Latitude North. 8 39 6 53 5 2 3 18 I 2 1 0 25 S, 1 48 2 22 3 9 4 33 5 21 Longitude Eaft. 06 30 °5 35 °4 45 04 29 05 J5 05 15 °5 3 05 38 06 12 06 15 06 o Variation Weft, o 30 o 26J-E. 8 5 38 io5 45 78 J9 7 32 105 10 80; 20 8 30 io5 4 82 21 9 23 104 48 82; 22 10 31 104 24 82; 23 11 47 193 46 80 24 13 5 103 10 82 75 79 78 78 78t 80 81 83 81 8i4 Inches 3°>I9 1 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. b. W. Frefli breezes, and hazy weather. From this day to the 28th, at anchor at Pulo Condore. JN. E. b. E. Frefh breezes, and fair 3°>10 I weather. {N. E, Moderate wind, and cloudy weather. V N. E. b. N. Moderate breezes, and fine 3°>°7 I weather. !N. b. E. Frefli breezes, and clear wea-then ^0,00. I North. Light winds, and clear. !N. N. E. Light winds, and clear. Lightning, S. W. JN. Eafterly. Light breezes, and fair; 30,09 j fomfe lightning. {Northerly. Light breezes, and fair wea- 1°>°° 1 the* SNortherly. Light breezes, and fair weather. J Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy ; fome 29>97 { lightning. I Ditto. Light winds; thunder, light-1 ning, and rain. From this time to the 29>9° j 18th, at Prince's Ifland, in the Strait:. [ of Sunda. 29,96 i W. N. W. Light airs, and cloudy. JN. Wefterly, Moderate wind, and ~9>93 j cloudy; fome rain. 29,90 j Wefterly. Light airs, and hazy.. fi j W. N. W. Moderate wind, and cloudy, 29> 9 > with fhowers. \ Northerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy, '-'9>9°j wiltnun. 20,86 | Variable. Frefli gales, with rain. TABLE XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. Feb. 25 13 24 March 26 27 28 29 1 2 Latitude South. *3 35 J3 57 H 56 15 53 16 52 17 12 !7 59 418 25 519 2 19 14 719 40 20 1 20 23 20 39 20 49 6 ic 11 12 *3 H 1 < if 1 - Longitude EaiL 2 1 2 1 28 22 2 22 37 '4 *4 101 31 IOO o 99 20 97 43 94 5° 92 11 89 35 87 33 84 24 83 12 81 11 78 49 76 58 75 Jo 73 20 71 47 69 22 67 2 64 58 62 56 61 28 59 53 Variation Weft. 2 47 sr 3 to Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Inches. 3 11 8 57 79 78 81 79 79 79 78 79 78i 78 79 784 84 81 81 82 81 80!- 80 81 80 81 30,07 I Variable. Frefh gales, with much rain. {Southerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy weather. n (S. Eafterly. Light airs, and pleafant J Ditto. Moderate wind, and cloudy, with 3°>I5 { fhowers. {S. S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy, with fhowers. 30,10 I S. E. A frefh gale, and clear weather. f S. E. b. E. A frefli gale, and fair wea-3°»,9{ ther. 5Eafterly. Moderate wind, and fine wea-ther. 30,16 1 S. E. Moderate wind ; fome rain. S. Eafterly. Frefh gale, and fair wea-3°'l7 i ther. [ E. S. E. Moderate wind, and moftly f * ii rainy. 3° 3° {E. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudy; fome rain. 30,14 Eaft. Moderate wind, and fair weather. 30,13 E. S. E. Moderate wind ; fome rain. 30,19 I E. S. E. Moderate breezes; fome rain. ;o,i8 1 S. E. b. E. Frefh breezes, with rain. !E. S. E. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. !E. S. E. Moderate breezes, and fine weather. 30,21 I lS. E. Brifk wind, with fome rain. 30,21 I S. E. Moderate wind, and fair weather. 5E. S. E. Moderate wind, and fair wea-ther. 5S. F. b. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy ; fome rain. _ 3° TABLE XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. 1780. March 18 J9 20 21 22 April Latitude South. 25 9 26 7 26 36 27 19 23 6 2328 267 24 29 6 25^9 39 2630 26 2731 3 2831 42 2931 24 3031 6 31 31 20 32 11 33 24 34 24 ?5 23 536 *3 6 35 49 735 H 34 57 8 Longitude Kaft. 53 50 56 40 54 48 52 35 49 47 46 30 43 4° 41 o 3 8 47 37 20 35 J9 34 20 33 3° 32 10 3° 37 23 57 26 12 24 4 22 17 21 41 20 7 20 21 Variation Weft. 9 O 21 27} ,6 31 79 77 77 77: 75 76 76 76 75 77 73 76 /3 7' 76 78 76 73 74 70 67 w o 3 Inches. 3°>29 3°>25 30,22 30.30 30,27 3°»x9 30.36 30,25 30,19 3°>°9 29,86 30,21 30,23 30,28 30,27 30,17 50,08 3°>I4 3o,24 $0,26 29,98 50,00 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S. E. b. E. Moderate wind, and hazy. S. T. b. S. Frefh breeze?, and cloudy, j S. E. Moderate wind, and cloudy. !E. S. E. Moderate wind,and fair weather. I S. b. E. Fjrefh gales, and cloudy. fS. E. Frefh gales, and cloudy; rain at { times. J S. E. b. E. Strong wind, with rain at I times. I S. F. Moderate wind, and fine weather. SS. Eafterly. Moderate breezes ; fome rain. { Ditto. Moderate wind, and fine wca-) ther. {Variable. Moderate wind ; thunder lightning, and rain. I Ditto. Light winds ; fome rain, f S. Wefterly. Moderate wind, and cleaij 1 weather, f Southerly, Light winds, and fair wea-{ ther. j Eafterly. Light winds, and hazy. I South. Moderate wind, and cloudy, r Eaft. Moderate wind, and fine wea-j ther. r Variable. Light winds, and hazy ; fome j rain. !S. S. W. Light winds, and pleafant weather. r Southerly. Light airs, and clear wea-| ther. I S. W. Light winds, and hazy. SWefterly. Moderate wind, and hazy ; rain at times. Vol. III. 3 Y T A B L E XIX. Continued. Route of the Refolution and Difcovery from Macao in China to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. Latitude South. Longitude LatL Variation Weft. Therm. Barom. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. i/bo. April 9 io 11 35 7 34 31 34 36 o ✓ 19 5° 18 40 18 20 0 / 0 67 69 67 Inches. 3°>°5 ■ 30,06 j 30,25 < ■ Southerly. Moderate wind, and cloudy; t fome rain. : Variable. Frefli gales, and fqually ; fome rain. -Wefterly. Moderate wind,. and*cloudy. At noon, the Cape of Good Hope N. b. W. and the Table Mountain , N. b. E. t E. APPENDIX, No. 11. A comparative TABLE of NUMERALS, exhibiting the Affinity and Extent of Language, which is found to prevail in all the Iflands of the Eaflern Sea, and derived from that fpoken on the Continent of Afia, in the Country of the Malayes. [N. B. The Malajre being confidered as the root, three fpecimens of its Numerals (land feparate, at the top of the Table. The derivative branches are ranged and numbered, according to the longitudinal fituation of the feveral places, proceeding from Madagafcar, the moft Weftern boundary, Eaftward to Eafter Ifland. In the inftances marked with a Star, liberty has been taken to feparate the Article from the Numeral.] Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven, Eight, Nine, Ten, Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven, Eight, Nine, Ten, One, Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven, Eight, Nine, Ten, Madagafcar. lilee, or EiTa -Rooe Tulloo, or Tailloo Efax, or Eftur Lime, or Leman -One, or Aine Heitoo, or Petoo Balloo -Seeva - Foroo, and Fooloo Parkinfon, p. 205. XIV. Ijle of Savu. l^e, or ufle Rooe Tulloa Uppa Lumee Unna Petoo A roo Saio Singooroo Parkinfon, p. 170. xxvir. New Zealand, Ka Tahe - -Ka Rooa Ka Tarroa Ka Wha -Ka Rcema -Ka Onoo Ka Wheetoo Ka Warroo Ka Leva Kaca Haowroo Parkinfon, p. 128. it, Madagafcar, Efer Rooa Talu Eftutchi Dee me Fanning Feeto Varlo Seve Folo - -Drury, p. 457. XV. Ijland of Savu, or Savoo. Ufle Lhua Tullu Uppa Lumme Unna Pedu Arm Saou Singooroo Lieut. Cook, Haiuktf. Vol. iii. xxviii. Nfw Zealand, Taliai Rooa Xoroa T'Fa Reema Honnoo Widdoo Warroo Hceva ill. Madagafcar, Iflb - Tone Telio Efiad Fruto Woubla Sidda Foulo v • M.ilo Nel Herlert, p. 22. xvi. Ifle of Ccram. O Eeuta Kj ju»Cv>3 • O Toloo O Patoo -O Lee ma O Loma O PeetO O Aloo O Tceo O Pboloo Parkinfon, p. 200. XXIX. Horn Iflands. 1616. Tacij, or Taci Loua, or Loa Tolou Fa, and DTa Lima IIouw Anga Horro - Onge Foula Forjhr, p. 284. Mala)\ Malay at Sumatra, Malay, One, Satu, Satoo, Sa. Two, Dun, Duo, Dua. Three, Tiga, - Teego, Teega. Four, En pat, Ampat, Ampat. Five, Lyma, Nam, - Leemo, Lee ma. Six, - A nam, Nam, and Anam. Seven, Toufou, Toojoo, Toojoo. Eight, l)c-lappan, Slappan, Delapan. Nine, Sainbalan, Sambilan, - Sambelan. Ten, Sapola, Sapooloo, - Sapooloo. Herbert, p. 368. Mar/den, p. 168. Forjlers Obfervations,^, 284. IL-ri era, from Le Maire, p, 81. iv. Madagafcar. Ifle Rica Tcllou Effats Li mi Ene Titou Walou Sivi Tourou Sir Jofeph Banks, in Hawkefjuorth, Vol. iii. p. 777. xvn. IfccfMfs.ibid. Kaou Kya ToJou Wati Rima Eno Lvijtfou Eialou Siwa Sanga Poulo Ht>rrera, from Le Maire, p. 82. XXX. Ijle of Cocos. Anno 1616. Taci Loua Tolou Fa Lima Houno Fitou Walou Ywou Ongc Foula Herrera, from Le Maire, p. 81. Acheen, in Sumatra. Sah Dua Tloo Paat Leemung Nam Too-joo D'Lappan Sakoorang Sapioo Ma>y"den, p. 16S. Xvf;i. New Guinea. Anno 1616. Tika Roa Tola Fatta Lima, or Liman Wamma Fita Wala Siwa Sanga Foula Herrera,from Le Maire, p. 81. xxxi. Friendly Iflands, A Tahaw Looa Toloo TT.i Neema Vano Fidda Varoo Hceva Ongofooroo Fsrjlers Obfer-vut. p. 284, vr. Lampoon, in Sumatra* Sye , -Rowah Tulloo Ampah Lecmah A imam Peetoo Ooalloo See wall Pooloo Maryrden, p. 168. XIX. Pappua cf New Guinea. Ofer Scrou Kior Tiafc Rim Onim Tik War Siou Samfoor ForejVs Voyage, p. 402. XXXH. Ifland of Amjler-dam. Tahae Eoda Too roa A Faa Neema VII. Batta, in Sumatra. Sidah Duo Toloo Opat Lecmah Onain Paitoo Ooalloa Seeah Sapooloo Marfden, p. 168. xv. Tierra del Efpiritu Santo. K u 3 w " § 3 o -n 1 H o " 2 3. 2 Cock, Vol. p. 9I. II. XXXIIT. Sandwich Iflands. o 8 1 o ft viii. Rejang, in Sumatra. Do Dooy Tcllou M-pat Lema Noorn Toojooa De-fapoon Sembilan De Pooloo Marfden, p. 168. xxr. New Caledonia. ♦Wag Eeaing Wa Roo Wat Eeen Wat Bacek Wan Nim Cock, Vol ii. 364- Anderfon''s Vocabulary, in this Appendix, Cook, Vol, ii. P- 36r- XXXIV. Otaheite. Tohe Rooa Torhoa Ha II Lemi Whaine Hitoo Wallhoa Iva Hoolhoa Parkinfon, p, 6^, IX. Princes Ifland. Hegie Dua Tollu Opat Li mah Gunnap Tudju - Delapan Salapan Sapoulo Sjr Jofeph Banks, in hlawkefworth, Vol. iii. p. 777. xxi. New Caledonia. ♦Par Ai Par Roo Par Ghen Par Bai Pa Nim Forjhr, p. 284. xxxv. Otaheite. *A Tahay E Rooa To roo A Haa E Reema A Ono A Heitoo A Waroo A Ecva A Hooroo Cook, Vol. ii, p. 346. x. Java. Sigi Lorou Tullu Pappat Limo Nunnam Petu Wolo Songo Sapoulo Sir Jofeph Banks, in Ilaivkefworth, Vol. iii. p. 777. xxnr. Malicolo. *Tfee Kace E-Ry - -E-Rei E-Bats E-Reem XT. Tagales of Leuco-nia, or Manilla. Yfa Dalava, or Dalova Tatl, or Ytb - Apat Lima Anim Pi to Valo Si yam Polo and Pobo -Forjler's Obfervations, p. 284. xxiv. Tanna. *Rct Tee Car Roo Ka Har Ka Fa Ka Rirrom - Cook, Vol. ii. 364- XXXVT. Afar qui fas. *A Tahaee A Ooa A Toroa A Faa A Acema A Ono A Wheetoo -A Waoo A Feva C Whannahoo, and £ (_ Whanuahooe. $ Cook, Vol. ii. p. 364. Forjlcr, p. 284. xxxvii. Alarquifas. Bo Dahai Bo Hooa Bo Dooo Bo Ha Bo Hecma Bo Na Bo H.ddoo -Bo Wahoo Bo Heeva Bo Nah00 Farfter** Ob fir. rations, p. 284. XT*. Pampangos, or Philippine. Ifa, Metong Ad-dua At-lo Apat Lima Anam Pitu Valo Siam Apalo Forjlers Obfervations, p. 284. XXV. Tanna. *Rcc Dee Ka Roo Ka Har -Kai Phar K' Reerum - Cook, Vol, it. P- 36+' XXXVIII. Eajler Ifland. Kat Tahaee Rooa Toroo Haa, and Faa Rcema Honoo Pleedoo - Varoo Hceva Atta Hooroo Anna Hooroo Cook, Vol. jj p. 364. XT IT, Mindanao* Ifa Daua Tula Apat Lima Anom Petoo Wala Seaow Sanponlu Forefl's Voyage, P- 399- xxvr. New Zealand* Tehat Rua Torou Ha Rema Ono Etu Warou Iva Anga Hourou Lieut. Cook, 1770. Hawhf. Vol. iii. P- 475- XXXIX. Eajler Ifland, ko Tahai Rooa Toroo H.:a Rcema Hono Hidiloo Varoo Hecva Ana Hooroo For/ler's Obfervations, p. 284. [To front p. 530. Vol. III. ] [ 53i ] APPENDIX, No. III. VOCABULARY of the LANGUAGE of the FRIENDLY ISLANDS, May, fife. 1777. Friendly IJles. Ve faine, Make, FukkatQLi, Woa, My, fogge, Attahoa, Englifh. A woman* Bread-fruit. Barter. Admiration, Good. A bead *, a necklace. Kochaa, crKohaeea? What is that? or what is the name of it ? M.igoo, Give me, Le laiec, Good. Ho 11, Come here. Morec, A paddock. Omee, Give me. Hobba, A fort of plantain. Koajee, or Kaoojce, Done ; finified. Koeea, Tes ; it is fo. Amou, Get j to hold faft. Horo, horo, A handkerchief, or wiper. Ongofooroo, Ten. Geliai, or geefai, There \ and that. Kato, A baflet. EgeeaFj A mat they wear round them. Friendly IJles. Englifh. Fooroo, or fooloo, Flair. Fooce vy. The leg. Tooa vy, Upper part of the font. Foo!oo,foolooJmatt3,,7li ring. wear. Wae, (Calling to one, per- Kleethak, A bears fin. haps) you ! Klochim me, Mufcles. Weekeetateefh, Sparkling fand, which Ohkullik, A wooden box they hold they JprinLle on their things in. faces. H'flaiakafl, or flai- Chauk, Water. kalizth, Coarfe mats of bark. Pacheetl, or pachatl, To rivet Five me. Eefee, An infrumcnt of bone tj Hawed ft b, cr ha- beat bark. walth, Frienafhip, friend. Chapitz koole, The model of a car.ee* Kleefeetl, To paint, or mark with Klapatuketeel, A bag made of mat. a penciL Tahmin, To fpit \ fpit tic. Abeetfzle, To go away, or depart. Waiuklheet, To cough. Sheefookto, To remain or abide. Poop, Common mofs. Steaik, A Jtone w apon, with a Ckumha, The wind. fquare point. L hutzquabeelO, A bag made of fealjk'.nl Suhyaik, A fpear, poin'ed with Konneeemis, A kind of fea weed* bone. Quaookl, or took- Taak, Ihe wood cf the de- peetl, To fit down. pending pine. Klukt-elzthl, or quo- Lukfheet, or luk- eelfzchr, To rife up. fheetl, To dru.k. Tfookeeats, To walk. Soochis, A tree, a wood. Kummmchchutl, To run. Haiccaipt, A broad leaf, jlrub, or Klutlklaee, To flrike, or beat* underwood. Teeihcheetl, To throw a flone. TccIlzdiccCp 544 A P P E N D I X, No. IV, Nootka* Englifli. Nootka. Englili, Teelfzthtee, To rub, or Jharpen Wamuhte, Twifled thongs and Si- metal. news, worn about Tfook, To cleave, or Jlrike their ankles. hard. Kutfeeoatah, Feins under the Jkin. Mahkatte, A fmall liliaceous root Tookquuk, The fkin. which they eat. Mufzthfle, Pain. Eumahtame, Fur of a fea otter. Waeetcb, To fleep. Cheemaine, Their largeft fijhhg Sikfaimaha, To breathe, or pant. hooks. Tuhfheetl, To weep. Mooftatte, A bow. * Matfkoot, Afly. Kahfheetl, Dead. Matook, To fly. Kleemfheetl, To fioot with a bow. Kooees, or quoees, Snow, or hail. Tfeehatte, An arrow. Aopk, To whiflle. Katfhak, A flaxen garment, worn Aflieeaikfheetl, To yawn. as their common Elfthltleek, An inflrument of two drefs. flicks flanding from Htflicheene, A plain Venus Jhell. each other, with Koohminne, A bag rattle. barbs. Akeeuk, A plain bone point for Cheeeeakis, A fear of a wound. flriking feats with. Tchoo, Throw it down, or to Kaheita, A barbed bone point for me. ditto. Cheetkoohekai, cr \A wooden in ft'rumen t Cheetakulheivvha, Bracelets of white bugle Cheetkoaik, * with many bone teeth, beads. to catch fmall flflj Mittemulfzfth, 1 hongs of flin worn with. about the wrifl and Kaenne, cr Koenai, A crow, a bird. neck. Keefapa, A fifh ; a white bream. Iaiopox, Pieces of copper worn Klaamoo, A bream flriped with in the ear. blue and gold co- Neefkfheetl, To fneeze. lours. Suchkas, A comb. Taawetfh, or Tfuf- lA flone weapon, or Seehl, Small feathers which keeah, ' tomahawk, with a they Jlrew on their • wooden handle. heads. Kamaifthlik, APPENDIX, No. IV. 545 Ncotka. Englifli. \ Nootka. Englifli. Kamaiflhlik, A kind cf fnare, to Aeea, A fardine. catch jifh cr other Koeetfak, A wolf fin drefs. animals with. Keepfleetokfzl, A woollen garment. Klahma, Wing feathers of a red IfTeu, Fine bark. bird. Wanfhee, Wild cat fin (lynx Seetfaennuk, Anger; folding. brunneus). Heeeai, or Heeeee, A brown Jlrcakcd fnake. Chaftimmetz, A common, and alfo Klapiffime, A racoon. pine martin. Owatinne, A white-headed eagle. Ookoomillfzthl, A little, round, wooden Kluhmifs, Train oil; a bladder cup. filled with it. Kooomitz, A human full. Onkkooma, Large carved- wooden Keehlwahmoot, A fin bladder ufed in faces. fifing. Kotyook, crhotyok, A knife. Tfeeapoox, A conic cap made of See eema, A fifhing net. mat, worn on the Weena, A fir anger. Summeto, head. Quahrnifs, Fifh roe firewed upon A fquirrel; they alfo pine branches and fea called a rat by this weed. name-. Kaatl, Give me. Maalfzthl, A deer's horn. Hookfquaboolflhl, A whale harpoon and Jakops, A man, or male. rope. Kolfheetl, or Kol- Komook, Chimera monflrofa. fheat, To [up with a fpoon. Quotluk, or quot- Achatla, or Achak- lukac, A fea otter's Jkin. lak, What is your name ? Maafenulfthl, An oblong wooden wea- Achatlaha, 1 khat is his name ? pon, two feet long. Akasflieha, or -t What is the name of Hokooma, A wooden majk of the akafTche, I that ? human face. Haifmufiik, A wooden fabre. Tooquacumilflhl. A feal Jkin. Maeetfalulflhl. A bone weapon, like the Cha, Let me fee it. Pa too. Sooma, A kind of haddock, of Kookelixo, Afifljfin; the hand. a red dif j brown co- Natcha, Afiflj tail. lour. Vol. III. 4 A Klihkleek, 546* Ncotka. Klihkleek, Klaklafm, Ko, Nahei, or naheis, Teelfthoop, Pachas, Quaeeaitfaak, Atchakoe, Aheita, Kifhkilkup, Akhmupt, Klaiwahmifs, Mollfthapait, Taeetcha, Kaaitz, TahooquolTIm, Moo w ate he* Mamat, Klaokotl* PalllzthpatJ* APPEND Englifh. The hoof of an animal, A bracelet. An article, to give flrength of expreflion to another word. Friendfhip. A large cuttle fifh. He gave it me. A yellow, or red fox. A limpet. A fweet fern root they eat. The flrawberry plant, A narrow grafs that grows on the rocks. A cloud. A feather. Full,fatisfied with eating. A necklace of fmall volute fhells. A carved human head cf wood, decorated with hair. A carved wooden vizor, like the head of a Quebrentahueffos. A black linnet, with a white bill. Give me fomething. Glimmer (fheet), I I X, No. IV. Nootka. Englifh, Eineetl, The name they apply to a goat; probably of a deer. Seeta, The tail of an animal. Seehfheetl, To kill. Ooolfzth, A fand piper. Sacemitz, Chequeredflrawbafkets. Chookwak, To go up, or awayk.. Kloofafht, Smoked herrings. Keetfma, Pttncluration. Mikeellzyth, To foften, or tie a thing. Cheeteeakamilzfth, White beads. Kakkumipt, A fea weed, or grafs, on which they jlrew fifh roe. EifTuk, A fort of leek j allium! triquetrum. Kutfkufhilzfth,, To tear a thing, Mitzfleo, A knot. Mamakeeo, To tie a knot. Klukfilzfth, To loofen, or untie. Klakaikom, The leaf of a plant. Safinne, or fafin, A humming bird. Koohquoppa, A granulated lily root they eat. Seeweebt, Alder tree. Kaweebt, Rafierry bufh. Kleehfeep, The flower of a plant. Klumma, Large wooden images placed at one end of their houfes. Aiahtoop, or aiah- toopfh, A porpoife. Tofhko,, APPEND I X, No. IV. 547 Nootka. Englifh. | Nootka, Englifli. Tofhko, A fmall brown fpotted Aminulfztb, Afip. cod. Natchkoa and \ The particular names of Afzlimupt, cr ulfz- ? Flaxen fluff, of which Matfeeto, f two of the monfrou,' thimipt, J they make their gar- images ealled$lumna. ments. Houa, To go that way. Wakafh, An expreffion of appro- Achichil, What does he fay ? bation, or fricndjhip. Aeek, The oval part of a whale Kullckaca, Troughs out of which Aptfheetl, dart. they cat. To feal. Kaots, A twig bafket. Quoeeup, To break. Sllook, The roof of a houfe ; Uhfhfapai, To pull. boards. Tfeehka, A general fong. Eilfzthmukt, Nettles. Apte, or appe, 2'ou. Koeeklate, A wooden ft age, or Kai, Thanks. frame, on which the Kotl, Me , /. ffh roe is dried. Punihpunih, A black beating font. Matlieu, A withe of bark for fafening planks. Nootka, The name of the bay or found. Nahafs, A circular hole that ferves as a window. Yatfeenequoppe, % Kakallakeehee- , The names of three men, Neetfoanimme, Large planks, of which their houfes are built. look, Nololoktirn, Chaipma, Straw. Satfuhcheek, The name of a woman. Haquanuk, A chef, or large box. Chahkots, A fquare wooden bucket, Names of different Parts of Chahquanna, to hold water. A fquare wooden drink- the Body. ing cup. Oooomitz, The head. Klennut, A wooden wedge. Apfoop, The hair of the head. Kplkolfainum, A large cheft. Uhpeukel, or up Klieutiunnim, A board to kneel on up pea, The forehead. when they paddle. Cheechectfh, The teeth. Tfeelfzthook, A frame of fquare poles. Choop, The tongue. 4 A 2 Kuflee, Nootka. Englifh; KuiTee, cr kaffee, The eye* Neets, The nofe. Papai, The ear. Aamifs, The cheek. Eehthlux, The chin. Apuxim, The beard. Tfeekoomitz, The neck. Seekutz, The throat. Eflulizth, The face. Eethluxooth, The lips. Kloofhkooah, klah, tamai, The noflrils. Aeetchfe, The eye-brow* Nootka. Englifh. Aapfo, The arm. Aapfoonilk, The arm-pit. Eneema, The nipple. Kooquainux, or Kooquainuxoo, The fingers. Chufhchuh, Nail of the finger. Kleafhklinne, The thighs and leg. Klahtimme, The foot. Aiahkomeetz, The thumb. Kopeeak, The fore finger. Taeeai, The middle finger. Oatfo, or akhukluc, The ring finger. Kaflcka, The little finger. APPENDIX, No. V. VOCABULARY of the one of the SANDWICH Atooi, Englifli. Tchaia, Where* Mahaia, Ditto. Aorre, or Aoe, No. He oho, The hair. E poo, The head. Papaiee aoo, The ear. Heraee, The forehead. Matta, The eye. Pappareenga, The cheek. Haieea, Fifh. Eeeheu, The nofe. Oome oome, The beard. Haire, To go. Erawha, Tears of joy. Aee, The neck. Poheeve, The arm. Ooma ooma, The brcafi. Heoo, The 7iippie. Peeto, The navel. Hoohaa, The thigh. He, wawy, The leg. Eroui, Wait a little. 5 LANGUAGE of ATOOI, ISLANDS, January, 1778. . Atooi. Englifh. Areea, Wait a little. Myao, Finger and toe nails. Eeno, Bad. Hootee, hootee, To pluck up, or out. Tooanna, A brother. Teina, A younger brother. Otooma heeva, A man's name. Nanna, Let me fee it. Noho Toft. Hoe, To go. Hooarra, Sweet potatoes. E Taeeai, Calling to one. Waheine, A woman. Teeorre, To throw away a thing. He, aieeree, The Jkin. Ma, ty ty, To look at, or furvey a thing. Tommomy, Come here. Erooi, T0 retch, to puke. Too, Sugar cane. Maa mona, Sweet or favoury food. Toohane, 55° A P P E N Atooi. Englifh. Tooharre, To fpit. Matou, J, firfl: perfon fingular. My, ty Good. Otaeaio, ■> Names of two cbkfs. Terurotoa, \ Oome, A great number. Poc, Tarc pudding. Oohe, Tarns. Booa, A hog. Eeneeoo, Cocoa nuts. Ono, To underfland. Eetee, To under/land, or know. Otae, A man's name. Maonna, Ful(, fatisfied with eat- ing. Owytooehainoa, What is your name? Tanata, A man. Tangata, Ditto. Pahoo, A drum. Ehoora, A Und of dance. Maro, A narrow ftripe of cloth they wear. Hoemy ; harremy, To come. Eroemy, Fetch it here. Taooa, Wc, firft perfon plural. Toura, A rope. Ooroo, Bread fruit. Etee, Dracaena. Appe, Virginian Arum. Matte, Dead. Aoonai, In a fort time i pre- fent ly. Paha, Perhaps. D I X, No. V. Atooi. Englifh. Ai, Tes. Ateera, Done ; at an end. Hevaite, To unfold. Noona, Above. Tapaia, To abide; to keep cr refrain from going. Poore, A prayer. Tahouna, A prieft, A tee, To ftch, or bring. Meeme, To make water. Ehaia, Where. Poota, A hole. Mao, That way. Mareira, This place. Eeo, There. Evaa, A canoe. Touroonoa, A man's name. My ty, Let me look. Aieeboo, A veffel of gourd fell. Ahewaite, Mullus cretaceus. O poo re, Sparus parvus puntla- tus. Taee, The fea. Evy, Frefh water. Aiva, A harbour. Eerotto, Within, into. Owyte eree, What is the chief's name ? Toneoneo, A chief's name. Motoo, To tear, or break. Toe, A ftone adze. Vaheeo, Let it lie, or remain. Haieehe, A barbed dart. Hooroo manuo, Birds feathers. Motoo, A P P E N D I X. No. V. A^oi, Motoo, Hamoea, Worero, Acenoo, Tehaia, orooa, Ou, Eunai, Pororee, Hereema, Mee re, meere, Moa, Manoo, Dirro, Modooa, tanne, Modooa, waheine> Naiwe, nawie* Hai, raa, Hairanee, A bo bo, Heaho, Tereira, Pymy, Ewououtte, Moe, Nooe, Poowha, Ahaia, Wehai, Tooto, Eaha, nai, Maeea, Englifh. An ifland. A ceremony of clapping the hands to the head, andprofirating themfelves to the chief. Loft flole. To drink. Where are you, ? 1, firftperfbn lingular. Here at this place. Hunger; hungry. A fpecies of Sida. To look at, or behold. A fowl. A bird. Below. Father. Mother. Pleafant j agreeable. The fun. The fky. To morrow. A fmall rope. There; that way. Throw it here. Morus Papyri/. To fleep. Large. To yawn. When ; at what lime. To uncover and undo a thing. A /mall flraw rope. What is this? Plantains, Atooi. Parra, Toe, toe, Matanee, Etoo, Hairetoo, Hoatoo, Eeapo, Eahoiahoi> Oora, Tee he, Herairemy, Henananoo, Hereeere, Eteepappa,, Marre, EI arte pahoo Heneene, Heho, Eatooa, Tangaroa, None, Hereanee, Englifh. Ripe •, as, ripe fruit. Cold. The wind. To rife up. To go there. To give. Flight. Evening. Red feathers. A prefent of cloth. A place on which fruit is laid as an offering to God. A /quare pile 0/ wicker work, or religion: obelifk. A burying.ground. The infde 0/ a burying- ground. A hou/e. A drum-houfe in a bu» rying-ground. A wall, the wall of a burying-ground. A fone fet up in a bit* rying-ground con]V- crated to the-Deity. A god. The name of the god of the place we were at. Morinda citrifolia.. Small twig things in a burying-ground. He Atooi. Ilemanaa, 1 lerooanoo, Tooraipe, Eahoi,. Pohootoo noa, Poota paire, Eonnotaine, Ottahoinoo, Epappa, Oneete, Heorro taire, Taa, Epoo, Eou, Tearre, Heoudoo, Eeorre, Ehooo, Epaoo, or ooapa, Matou, Englifli. A houfe, or hut, where they bury their dead. Wooden images in a bu- rying-houfe. A kind of head-drefs, or helmet on an image. Hire. A cream-coloured whet-fone. A diftricl at the Weftern part of the ifle. A fort cloak of black and white feathers. One article, or thing. A board ufed to fwim upon. A kind of cloth. A fmall fear let bird, or merops fcarlatina. An interjetlion of ad- miration. A bracelet cf a Jingle fell. To fwim. Gardenia, or Cape Jaf-mine. A refufal; I will not do it, or take that for this. A rat. A gimblet, or any in* ftrument to bore with. There is no more ; it is done, orfnifed. A particular fort of ff-hook. Atooi. Erahoi, dehoi, Englifli. Thin; as, thin cloth, board, &c, Pattahaee, or he roul, Afort ofmufcal inftru-ment or rattle, orna-mented with red feathers. A plume of feathers they wear. The Cordia febeftina. To break. Tes; /'/ is fo. Afong. A wooden bowl. A fallotv ivooden difh they drink ava out of. A particular fort of cloth. Ootee, Vol. III. APPEND Englifh. Any thing net to be touched, as being forbid. This is an example that flows the tranfmutalion of the II, F. and B. into each ether. Thus at Otaheite yams are oohe, at Tonga oofe, at New Caledonia oobe, and here taboo is tafoo. I, firfl perfon fingular. Little rods, about five feet long, with a tuft of hair on the fmall end. Salt. A round pearl fljell. The cold ariflng from being in the water. The fenfe of tafle. A loufe. To falute by applying one nooe to the other. Ehogge at New Zealand, and Ehoe at Otaheite. A fore of any kind. Cured-, recovered; aline; welL AJharL The. I X, No. V. SSI Atooi. Englifli. Heneeoohe,. An inflrument made of a Jhark's tooth fixed on a wooden handle,. to cut with. Eea* An adjuncl, as at Ota- heite, to giveflrengtlr to an expreffwn. Paoo roa, Quite done ; finifhed.. Ee, At. Taira,. Ihat j the other. Ahoo aura^ Red cloth. Henaror Ehateinoa* What is the name of that ? Heweereweere, An outrigger of a canoe. Mawaihe, The fail of a canoe. Eheou,. 7he mofl of a canoe. Hetoa, 1he yard of a fail. Ooamou, Fafl ; fecure ; found whole. Hono, To go ; to move. Matou, Fear. Pooa, An arrow. Teeto, A bow. Epaee,, Wooden bowls made from the Etooo. Ohe, Bamboo. Henaroo,. The fzvell cf the fea* Motoo, Land. Ehetoo, A flar. Marama, The moon. Ouameeta, A man's name. Numerals to Ten, as at Otaheite, 4B APPENDIX, No. VI. TABLE to iliew the Affinity between the Languages fpoken at Oonalashka and Norton Sound, and thofe of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Englifh. Ooonalajhka. Norton Sound. Greenland. From Crantz. Efquimaux. A man, Chengan - Angut A woman, Anagogenach The head, Kamcak - ... • ■ - - Ne-aw-cock The hair, Emelach - Nooit - New-rock The eye-brow, Kamlik Kameluk - Coup-loot The eye, Dhac Enga Ehich The nofe, A notch e • Ngha Cring-yauk The cheek, Oolooeik - Oollooak - Ou-lu-uck-cur The ear, Tootoofh - Shudeka Se-u-teck The lip, Adhce Hafhlaw The teeth, Agaloo The tongue, Agonoc The beard, * Engelagoong Oongai The chin, Jfmaloch - Tamluk Taplou The neck, Ooioc - - . Coon-e-foke The breajt, Shimfen - ] m m Suck-ke-uck The arm, Toolak Dallek m Telluck The band, Kedhachoonge Aifhet - Alguit The finger, Atooch The nails, Cagelch - Shetooe Ihe thigh, Cachemac - Kookdofhac The leg, Ketac Kanaiak - Ki-naw-auk The foot, Ooleac 4 Etfcheak E-te*ket The APPENDIX, No. VI. 5SS Englifh. Oonalafoka. Norton Sound. Greenland. From Crantz* Efquimaux, The fun, Agadac - Maje - Suck-ki-nuch The moon. Toogedha - Tac-cock The fly, - Enacac 0 A cloud. Aiengich The wind. Caitchec The fea, Alaooch - Emai - Ut-koo-tuk-lea Water, Tangch - Mooe Fire, Keiganach E-ko-ma Wood, - Hearach A knife, Kamelac A houfe, Oolac - Iglo - Tope-uck A canoe, Eakeac Caiac - Kaiak Kirock A paddle, Chafec - Pangehon Pautik Pow Iron, Comeleuch Shawik - Shaveck A bow, Seiech - Petick fie Arrows, Agadhok v|*: - Caukjuck Darts, Ogwalook 1 . Aglikak A fifh-hook, Oochtac No, - Net Ena Nag Tes, or yea, - Ah Eh - - Ulifve One, - Taradac - Adowjak Attoufek - • Attoufet Two, Alac Aiba Arlak - Mardluk Three, Canoogn - Pingafliook - Pingajuah - Pingafut Four, - Sechn Shetamik Sifiarnat - Si (Tarnat Five, - Chang Dallamik Tellimat' - Tellimat Six, Atoo In counting more Arbanget Seven, - Ooloo - than five, they C Arbanget repeat the Jame v Attaufek Eight, Kamching words over, again. Arbanget mardlik Nine, Seching - Rollin illoet Ten, - Hafc •• • Kollit. 4B Z APPENDIX, No. VII. A TABLE of the Variations of the Compass, obferved by Captain Cook during his paffage from England to the Cape of Good Hope. See Vol L p. 49. 1776. Latitude. Longitude. 0 July 14 0 8 N. 4 40 w. % 18 48 44 5 20 1 22 48 35 5 36 44 17 8 18 23 43 55 8 28 8 24 43 40 8 33 K 25 42 5? 9 34 ? 26 40 38 10 7 D 29 33 5l 14 32 3° 33 4 i4 53 32 4 '5 4 3i TO 15 27 At anchor in the Road of St. Cruz in Tenenffc 5! Auguft 7 23 54 18 36 ? 9 20 29 19 56 '9 41 20 29 1 12 '5 34 23 10 $ 14 13 49 23 23 M 12 21 23 34 ? 16 11 5i 24 2 D ■9 9 47 22 52 8 55 22 39 22 6 33 20 51 ? 23 6 29 21 2 6 9 20 59 D 26 4 23 21 12 Variation. 22 23 23 22 18 T9 18 14 15 14 '3 9 9 9 8 9 9 10 11 10 9 18* c4 20 23 25 4 22 42 W. 26 i44 I4i 5^ 31 3* 24 18* 41> 1 4« 28 48 2lr 2 51 16.-. *3 19 5 Time. Evening. Ditto. Mornirg, Ditto, Evening. Ditto. Ditto. pitta Morning. Evening. Morning. Evening. Ditto. Ditto. Morning. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Evening. Morning. Ditto. Evening, Morning. Ditto. APPENDIX, No. VII. 557 1776. Latitude. Longitude. Variation. Time. 9 9 1 34 >4 0 iB| E. Evening. 9 35 34 29 0 6| E. Morning, livening. 10 10 4 34 l9 0 40 W. 11 1 - 34 »9 0 6* E. Morning. 11 12 40 34 >9 0 4i| E. Ditto, U 1 2 13 23 34 18 0 40^ E. Evening. 14 1 i 34 2 0 164 E. Morning, ? '3 '4 47 34 4 1 8 E. Evening amplitude. 15 33 34 16 1 20 E. Morning. T? 16 12 34 2o 1 23I & Evening* 16 5« 34 55 2 3o| E, Morning, O >7 40 35 8 2 11 E. Ev( ning. Morning. 18 30 35 26 2 16I I 16 20 8 3.i 49 4 af Ditto. * *7 20 46 35 53 2 43 t Evening. 21 37 35 42 2 44t Morning. 18 2 2 '7 35 41 2 33* P.vcning, ¥ 20 2 5 54 34 37 3 Ditto. 26 47 33 55 3 i6f Morning. 21 27 14 33 26 3 51 Evening. 27 44 32 35 2 23! Morning. 0 22 28 «9 3» 51 2 i| Ditto. APPENDIX, No. VII. 1776. Latitude. Longitude. Variation. Time. D September 23 28 36 s. 31 5 W. 0 2 3*4 & Evening. 2Q 12 29 59 i Morning. 3° 33 48 16 7 4 454- Evening. 33 56 15 28 4 45* Morning. 51 O&ober 2 34 16 120 7 1 Evening. 34 16 10 2 7 *3t Morning. ? 4 34 45 8 58 6 32 Evening. Amplitude. 7 52 Ditto. 35 37 9 4 6 94 Morning, * 5 35 35* 9 12 6 Evening. 35 49 8 49 7 Morning. Evening. f 3 35 19 7 45 8 47 59$ Amplitude. 6 Ditto. 35 30 7 35 9 12 Morning. » 9 35 17 7 5 8 45t Evening. 6 59t Ditto. n 10 35 39 3 47 W. 11 56 Morning. 34 57 8 40 E. x9 26^ Evening. At the Cap e of Good Hope, ' V 1 22 5&* 144 On board. On fhore. THE END, This Day are publijkcdy I. An Account of the VOYAGES undertaken by the Order of his prefent Majesty, for making DISCOVERIES in the NORTHERN HEMISPHERE. And fticceflively performed by Commodore Byron, Captain Wallis, Captain Carteret, and Captain Cook. in the Dolphin, the Swallow, and the Endeavour. Drawn up from the Journals which were kept by the feveral Commanders, and from the Papers of Joseph Banks, Efq. By JOHN H A WKES WORTH, LL. D. IN THREE VOLUMES. Illuftrated with CUTS, and a great Variety or CHARTS and MAPS relative to Countries now firft difcovered, or hitherto but imperfectly known. II. A VOYAGE towards the SOUTH POLE, and round the WORLD. Performed in his Majefty's Ships the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE, In the Years 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. Written by Captain JAMES COOK, Commander of the Resolution In which is included Captain Furneaux's Narrative of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation of the Ships. IN TWO VOLUMES. Illuftrated with Maps and Charts, and a Variety of Portraits of Perfons, and Views of Places, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. Hodges, and engraved by the moft eminent Madera. Complete Sets may be had in Eight Volumes Quarto. «