V0k" i
VOYAGE
TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN.
U N D E RTAKE N,
BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY,
FOR MAKING
Difcoveries in the Northern Hemifphere.
to determine
The Position,and Extent of the West Side of North America; its   Distance from Asia ; and the Practicability of a ./^SG&c/- \ Northern  Passage to Europe.
XiYCKAIi   i performed under the direction op
EIBLIOTlIEiy      Captains  COOK,  CLERKE,  and GORE, ^AUYh^y   in his Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY.
In the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1780.
IN   THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. i. and JL written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL. D. and F. R. S.
Illuftratcd With Maps ami Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Henry Roberts, under the Direction of Captain Cook ; and with a great Variety of Portraits of Perfons, Views of Places, and Hidorical Representation! of Remarkable Incidents, drawn by Mr. Webber dining the Voyage, and engraved by the mod eminent Artifts.
Publifhcd by Order of the Lords Commiflioners of the Admiralty.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY  W.  AND A. STRAHAN: FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, IN THE STRAND} AND T. CADELL, IN THE STRAND. MDCCLXXXIV.
CONTENTS
OF THE
FIRST VOLUME.
In rKOuuciioN,
Inscription to the Memory of Captain James Cook, Lift of the Plates.
BOOK I.
Tranfactions from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand.
CHAP. I.
JTAR JO U S Preparations for the Voyage.—Omai's Behaviour on embarking.—Obfcrvations for determining the Longitude of Sheer-7ie/s> and the North Foreland.—PaJJdge of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth,—Employments there.—Complements of the Crews of both Ships, and Names of the Officers.—Obfervations to fx the Longitude of Plymouth.—Departure of the Refolution,
Page i
C II A P. II.
Taffagc of the Refolution to Teneriffe.—Reception there.—Defcription of Santa Cruz Road.—Refrejhments to be met with.—Obfervations
A 2 for
Page i lxxxvii xci
for fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe.—Some Account of the Ifland, —Botanical Obfcrvations.—Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna.— Agriculture.—-Air and Climate.—Commerce.—Inhabitants. 14
CHAP. III.
Departure from Teneriffe.—Danger of the Ship near Bonavifta.—Ifle
of Mayo.—Port Pray a__Precautions againfl the Rain and fid try
weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator.—Pofition of the Coafl of Brazil.—Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfaclions there.—function of the Difcovery.—Mr. Anderfons Journey up the Country.—Agronomical Obfcrvations.—Nautical Remarks on the Paffage from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the Variation. 29
C II A P. IV.
The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope.—Two Iflands, named Prince Edward's, feen, and their Appearance defcribed.—Ker~ guelcns Land vifited.—Arrival in Chrifmas Harbour.—Occurrences there.—Defcription of it. 51
C II A P. V.
Departure from Chrifimas Harbour.—Range along the Coafl, to difco~ ver its Pofition and Extent.—Several Promontories and Bays, and a Peninfula, defcribed and named.—Danger from Shoals.—Another Harbour and a Sound. Mr. Anderfons Obfcrvations on the natural Productions, Animals, Soil, &c. of Kergueleri s Land. >jq
CHAP. VI.
Paffage from Kergueletfs to Fan Diemen's Land.—Arrival in Adventure Bay.—Incidents there.—Interviews with the Natives.—■ Their Perfons and Drefs defcribed.—Account of their Behaviour,— Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation.—Mr. Anderfons Obfcrvations on the natural Productions of the Country, on the Inhabitant s^ and their Language. 9 3
CHAP. VII.
The Pnjfage from Van Diemen's Land to New Zealand.—Employ* ments in Queen Charlotte's Sound.—Tranfaclicns with the Natives there.—Infelligence about the Mafjacre of the Adventures Boat's Crew.—Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occa-fon.—Of the two young Men who embark to attend Omai.—Various Remarks on the Inhabitants.—Agronomical and Nautical Obfervarious. 118
C II A P. VIII.
Mr. Anderforfs Remarks on the Country near Queen Charlotte s Sound, —The Soil.-—Climate. — Weather.—IVinds. — Trees.—Plants.—-Birds.—FifJj.—Other Animals.—Of the Inhabitants—Defcription of their Perfons.—Their Drefs.—Ornaments.—Habitations. —Boats, —Food and Cookery.—Arts. — Weapons.—Cruelty to Prifoners.-— Various Cuftoms .— Specimen of their Language. 145
BO   OK IT.
From leaving New Zealand, to our Arrival at Otaheite^
or the Society Iflands,
CHAP. I.
Profecution of the Voyage.—Behaviour of the two New Zealanders on board.—Unfavourable winds.—An Ifland called Mangeca difcovered.-—The Coaft of it examined.—Tranficlions with the Natives.—An Account of their Perfons, Drefs, and Canoe.—Defcription of the Ifland.—A Specimen of the Language.—Difpofition of the Inhabitants. J 67
CHAP. II.
The Difcovery of an If and called Wateeoo.—Its Coajls examined*—Vifits from the Natives on board the Ships.—Meff. Gore. Barney, and Anderfon, with Omai, fent on Shore. — Mr. Anderfons Narrative of their Reception. — Omai's Expedient to prevent their being detained.—His meeting with fome of his Count, ymen, and their diflrefs-ful Voyage.—Farther Account of Wateeooy and of its Inhabitants. 180
CHAP. III.
Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited.— Account of that Ifland, and of its Produce. Hervey's Ifland, or Teroitgge mou Attooa, found to be inhabited.—Tranfactions with the Natives.— Their Perfons, Drefs, Language, Canoes.—Fruitlefs Attempt to land there—Rea-Jons for bearing away for the Friendly Iflands.—Palmer/Ions IJland touched at.—Defcription of the two Places where the Boats landed. —Refrefl:ments obtained there.—Conjectures on the Formation of fuch low Iflands.—Arrival at the Friendly Iflands. 205
CHAP. IV.
Intercourfe with the Natives of Komango, and other Iflands.—Arrival at Annamooka.—Tranfaclions there.—Feenou, a principal Chief from Tongataboo, comes on a Vifit.—The Manner of his Reception in the Ifland, and on board.—Infances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Natives.—Some Account of Annamooka.—The Paffage from it to Hapaee. 225'
CHAP. V.
Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly* Reception there._Pre-
fents and Solemnities on the Occafwn.—Shiglc Combats with Clubs. —Wrefiling and Boxing-matches.—Female Combatants.—Marines
exercifed.—A Dance performed by Men.—Fireworks exhibited._
The Night-entertainments of finging and dancing particularly defcribed. 242
CHAP. VI.
Defcription of Lefooga.—Its cultivated State.—Its Extent.—Tranfac-tions there.—A Female Ocul'fl.—Singular Expedients for fhaving off the Hair.—The Ships change their Station.—A remarkable Mount and Stone.—Defcription of Hoolaiva.—Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands.—Refpcclful Manner in which he is treated by his People.—Departure from the Hapaee Iflands.—Some Account of Kotoo.—Return of tlye Ships to Annamooka.—Poulaho and Feenou meet.—Arrival at Tongataboo. 256'
CHAP. VIL
Friendly Reception at Tongataboo.—Manner of diflributing a baked Hog and Kava to Poulaho's Attendants.—The Obfervntory, &c. creeled.—The Village where the Chiefs refde, and the adjoining Country, defcribed.—Interviews with Mareewagee, and Toobou, and the King's Son.—A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by Marcewagee.—Exhibition of Fire-works.-— Manner of VVrefling and Boxing.—D'flribution of the Cattle.— Thefts committed by the Natives.—Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that Account.—Poulaho's P refait ^ and Hah a. 278
CHAP. VIII.
Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives.—A fijlnng Party,— A Vifit to Poulaho.—A Fiatooka defcribed.—Obfcrvations on the Country Entertainment at Poulaho s Houfe.—His Mourning Cere-tnony.—Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor.—Account of Onevy, a little Ifland.—One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel.—Meffrs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother.—Their Entertainment.—Another Mourning Ceremony.— Manner of poffing the Night.—Remarks on the Country they paffed through.—Preparations made for failing.—An Eclipje of the Sun, imperfectly obferved.—Mr. Anderfons Account of the Ifland, and its Produtlions, 309
C II A P. IX.
A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son, performed.—The Pnceffions and other Ceremoni's, during the firfl t)ay} defcribed.—The Manner of paffing the Night at the King's Houfe.— Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day.— Conjectures about the Nature of it.—Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooq.—Account of that Ifland, and Tranfactions there. 336
CHAP. X.
Advantages derived from vifiting the Friendly Iflands.—Befl Articles for Traffic.—RefrefJjments that may be procured.—The Number of the I/lands, and their Names—Keppel's and Bofcaweri's Iflands belong to them.—Account ofVavaoo—of Hamoa—of Fcejee.—Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes.—Difficulty of procuring exaSl In-formation.—Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes.—Their Colour. —Difeafcs.—Their general Character.—Manner of wearing their Hair—of puncturing their Bodies.—Their Clothing and Ornaments. ~-Perfonal Cleanlinefs. n(]^
C H A P. XI.
Employments of the Women, at the Friendly Iflands.—Of the Men.— Agriculture.—Conf ruction of their HouJ'es.—'Their working Tools, —Cordage, and fflj'mg Implements.—Muftcal Infiruments.— Weapons.—Food, and Cookery.—Amufements.—Marrige.—Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead.—Their Divinities.—Notions about the Soul, and a future State.—Their Places of WorfJjip.—Government, -r— Manner of paying Obeifance to the King.—Account of the Royal Family—Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.—Nautical and other Obfcrvations. yj0
ERRATUM. ?2£e 206, line 24, for latitude 19° 15' South, rtad latitude 190 51'South.
INTRODUCTION.
H E fpirit of difcovery, which had long animated the
-A- European nations, having, after its arduous and fuc-cefsful exertions, during the fifteenth and fixteenth centuries, gradually fubfided, and for a confiderable time lain dormant, began to revive in Great Britain in the late reign *; and recovered all its former activity, under the cherifhing influence, and munificent encouragement, of his prefent Majefty.
Soon after his acceflion to the throne, having happily clofed the deftructive operations of war, he turned his thoughts to enterprizes more humane, but not lefs brilliant, adapted to the feafon of returning peace. While every liberal art, and ufeful fludy, flouriflied under his patronage at home, his fuperintending care was extended to fuch branches of knowledge, as required diftant examination and inquiry; and his (hips, after bringing back victory and conquefi from every quarter of the known world, were
* Two voyages for difcoverlng a North Weft paffage, through Hudfon's Bay, were then performed; one under the command of Captain Middlcton, in his Majefty's ihips the Furnace, and the Difcovery Pink, in 1741, and 1742. The other under the direction of Captains Smith and Moore, in the ihips Dobbs and California, fitted out by fubferjption, in 1746, and 1747.
Vol. I. a now
I N T R O D U C T I O N.
now employed in opening friendly communications with its hitherto unexplored recelTes.
In the profecution of an object: fo worthy of the Monarch of a great commercial people, one voyage followed another in clofe fucceffion; and, we may add, in regular gradation. What Byron * had begun, Wallis f and Carteret J foon improved. Their fuccefs gave birth to a far more extend ve plan of difcovery, carried into execution, in two fub-fequent voyages, conducted by Cook §. And that nothing might be left unattempted, though much had been already done, the fame Commander, whofe profeflional ikill could only be equalled by the perfevering diligence with which he had exerted it, in the courfe of his former refearches, -was called upon, once more, to refume, or rather to complete, the furvey of the globe. Accordingl)', another voyage was undertaken in 1776; which, though lad in the order of time, was. far from being the lead considerable, with re-fpect to the extent and importance of its objects; yet, {till, far lef3 fortunate than any of the former, as thofe objects
* Captain, now Admiral, Byron, had, under his command, the Dolphin and Tamer.   He failed in June 1764, and returned in May 1766.
f Captain Wallis had, under his command, the Dolphin and Swallow.   He failed in Auguft 1766, and returned, with the Dolphin, in May 1768.
I The Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret, having been feparated from Wallis, and, by keeping a different route, having made different difcoveries, this maybe confidcred as a diftinct voyage. The Swallow returned to England in March 3769.
§ Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, failed in Augufl 1768,  and returned in July 3771.
In his fecond voyage, he had the Refolution and Adventure under his command. They failed from England in July 1772, and returned on the 30th of July 1775.
were
were not accomplifhed, but at the expence of the valuable life of its Conductor.
When plans, calculated to be of general utility, are carried into execution with partial views, and upon interefted motives, it is natural to attempt to confine, within fome narrow circle, the advantages which might have been derived to' the world at large, by an unreferved difclofure of all that had been effected. And, upon this principle, it has too frequently been confidered as found policy, perhaps, in this country, as well as amongfl fome of our neighbours, to affect to draw a veil of fecrecy over the remit of enter-prizes to difcover and explore unknown quarters of the globe. It is to the honour of the prefent reign, that more liberal views have been now adopted. Our late voyages, from the very extenfive objects propofed by them, could not but convey ufeful information to every European nation; and, indeed, to every nation, however remote, which cultivates commerce, and is acquainted with navigation : and that information has moil laudably been afforded. The fame enlarged and benevolent fpirit, which ordered thefe feveral expeditions to be undertaken, has alfo taken care that the refult of their various difcoverics fliould be authentically recorded. And the tranfaetions of the five firil voyages round the world having, in due time, been communicated *, under the authority of his Majefty's naval Minifter; thofe of the fixth, which, befides revifiting many of the former difcovcries in the Southern, carried its opera-
'* The account of the four Rrft of thefe voyages, compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth, from the Journals of the feveral Commanders, was published in 1772, in Three Volumes quarto; and Captain Cook's own account of the fifth, in 1777, in Two Volumes quarto.
a 2 rions
tions into untrodden paths in the Northern hemifphcre, are, under the fame fanction, now fubmittcd to the Public in thefe Volumes.
One great plan of nautical inveftigation having been pur-fued throughout, it is obvious, that the feveral voyages have a clofe connection, and that an exact recollection of what had been aimed at, and effected, in thofe that preceded, will throw conliderable light on our period. With a view, therefore, to a/lift the Reader in forming a juft eftimate of the additional information conveyed by this Publication, it may not be improper to lay before him a fhort, though comprc-henfive, abftract of the principal objects that had been pre-viouily accompliiTied, arranged in fuch a manner, as may ferve to unite, into one point of view, the various articles which lie fcattercd through the voluminous Journals already in the hands of the Public; thofe compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth; and that which was written by Captain Cook himlelf. By thus fhewing what had been formerly done, how much flill remained for fubfequent examination, will be more apparent; and it will be better underftood on what grounds, though the ihips of his Majcfty had already circumnavigated the world live different times, in the courfe of about ten years, another voyage fhould flill be thought expedient.
There will be a farther ufe in giving fuch an abftracT a place in this Introduction. The plan of difcovery, carried on in fo many fucceflive expeditions, being now, we may take upon us to fay, in a great meafure completed; by fumming up the final refult, we mail be better able to do juflice to the benevolent purpofes it was deGgned to anfwer; and a folid foundation will be laid, on which we may build
a fa-
a fatisfactory anfwer to a queftion, fometimes afkcd by peevifli refinement, and ignorant malevolence, What beneficial confequenccs, if any, have followed, or are likely to follow, to the difcoverers, or to the difcovered, to the common interefts of humanity, or to the increafe of ufefui knowledge, from all our boafted attempts to explore the distant receffes of the globe?
The general object of the feveral voyages round the world, undertaken by the command of his Majeily, prior to that related in this work, was to fearch for unknown tracts of land that might exift within the bofom of the immenfe expanfe of ocean that occupies the whole Southern hemi-fphere.
Within that fpace, fo few refearches had been made, before our time, and thofe few refearches had been made fo imperfectly, that the remit of them, as communicated to the world in any narration, had rather fcrved to create uncertainty, than to convey information ; to deceive the credulous, rather than to fatisfy the judicious inquirer; by blending the true geography of above half the fuperficies of the earth, with an endlefs variety of plaufible conjectures, fuggefted by ingenious fpeculation; of idle tales, handed down by obfeure tradition; or of bold fictions, invented by deliberate falfehood.
It would have been very unfortunate, indeed, if five different circumnavigators of the globe, fome of them, at leafl, if not all, in tracks little known, and lefs frequented, had produced no discoveries, to reward the difficulties and perils unavoidably encountered. But the following review will furnifh the moil fatisfactory proofs, that his Majefty's inllructions have been executed with ability;, and that the
repeated
repeated vifits of his fliips to the Southern hemifphere, have very confiderably added to our ftock of geographical knowledge.
I.
The South Atlantic Ocean was the firfl fcene of our operations. Falkland's Iflands had been hitherto barely known to cxift; but their true pofition and extent, and every cir-cumflancc which could render their exiflence of any con-fequencc, remained abfolutely undecided, till Byron vifited them in 1764. And Captain Macbride, who followed him thither two years after, having circumnavigated their coafts, and taken a complete furvey, a chart of Falkland's Iflands has been conftructed, with fo much accuracy, that the coafts of Great Britain, itfdf, are not more authentically laid down upon our maps.
How little was really known of the iflands in the South Atlantic, even fo late as the time of Lord Anfon, we have the mod remarkable proofs, in the Hiflory of his voyage. Unavoidably led into miflake, by the imperfect materials then in the polTcflion of the world, he had confidercd Pcpys's llland, and Falkland Ifles, as diftinct places, diltant from each other about five degrees of latitude *. Byron's refearches have rectified this capital error; and it is now decided, beyond all contradiction, that future navigators will mfpend their time, if they look for Pepys's Ifland in latitude 470; u being now certain, that Pcpys's Ifland is no other than thefe iflands of Falkland *f.
* Sec Lord Anfon's Voyage, quarto edition, p. 91.
I Thefe arc Captain Cook's words, Preface to his Fcyage, p. 14.; and the evidence, on which he forms this judgment, may be met with in Hawkefwoith's Journal .of Byron's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 23, 24,-51, 52, 53, 54.
z Befidcs
Befides the determination of this confiderable point, other lands, fituated in the South Atlantic, have been brought forward into view. If the ifle of Georgia had been formerly fcen by La Roche, in 1675, and by Mr. Guyot, in the ffrip Lion, in 175^, which feems to be probable, Captain Cook, in 1775, has made us fully acquainted with its extent and true pofition; and, in the fame year, he added to the map of the world Sandwich Land, hitherto not known to exilt, and the moft Southern difcovery that has been ever accompli fried *.
II.
Though the Strait of Magalhaens had been frequently vifitcd, and failed through, by fhips of different nations, before our time, a careful examination of its bays, and harbours, and head lands; of the numerous iflands it contains, and of the coalls, on both fides, that inclofe it; and an exact account of the tides, and currents, and foundings, throughout its whole extent, was a tafk, which, if Sir John Narborough, and others, had not totally omitted, they cannot be faid to have recorded fo fully, as to preclude the utility of future inveftigation. This tafk has been ably and effectually performed by Byron, Wallis, and Carteret; whofe tranfactions in this Strait, and the chart of it, founded on their observations and difcoveries, are a moft valuable acceflion to geography.
III.
If the correct information, thus obtained, about every pare of this celebrated Strait, fhould deter future adventurers from involving themfelves in the difficulties and
* See the Chart of Difcoveries in the South Atlantic.   Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii.
P. 210.
cmbarraffments
embarrafTments of a labyrinth, now known to be fo intricate, and the unavoidable fource of danger and delay, we have the Satisfaction to have difcovered, that a fafer and more expeditious entrance into the Pacific Ocean, may be reafonably depended upon. The pafTage round Cape Horn, has been repeatedly tried, both from the Eaft and from the Weft, and ftript of its terrors. We fhall, for the future, be lefs difcouraged by the labours and diftreflcs experienced by the fquadrons of Lord Anfon and Pizarro, when we recollect, that they were obliged to attempt the navigation of thofe fcas at an unfavourable feafon of the year; and that there was nothing very formidable met with there, when they were traverfed by Captain Cook.
To this diftinguifhed navigator was referved the honour of being the firft, who, from a ferics of the moft Satisfactory obfcrvations, beginning at the Weft entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens, and carried on, with unwearied diligence, round Tierra del Fuego, through the Strait of Le Maire, has conftructed a chart of the Southern extremity of America, from which it will appear, how much former navigators muft have been at a lofs to guide themfclves, and what advantages will now be enjoyed by thofe who fhall hereafter fail round Cape Horn.
IV.
As the voyages of difcovery, undertaken by his Majcfty's command, have facilitated the accefs of mips into the Pacific Ocean, they have alfo greatly enlarged our knowledge of its contents.
Though the immenfe expanfe ufually diftinguifhed by this appellation, had been navigated by Europeans for 3 near
near two centuries and a half*, by far the greater part of it, particularly to the South of the equator, had remained, during all this time, unexplored.
The great aim of Magalhaens, and of the Spaniards in general, its firft navigators, being merely to arrive, by this pafTage, at the Moluccas, and the other Afiatic Spice Iflands, every intermediate part of the ocean that did not lie contiguous to their Weifern track, which was on the North fide of the equator, of courfe efcaped due examination; and if Mendana and Quiros, and fome namelefs conductors of voyages before them f, by deviating from this track, and holding a Weftcrly one from Callao, within the Southern tropic, were fo fortunate as to meet with various iflands there, and fo fanguine as to confider thofe iflands as marks of the exiftence of a neighbouring Southern continent; in the exploring of which they flattered themfelves they mould rival the fame of De Gama and Columbus ; thefe feeble efforts never led to any effectual dkclofure of the fuppofed hidden mine of the New World. On the contrary, their voyages being conducted without a judicious plan, and their difcoveries being left imperfect without immediate fet-tlement, or fubfequent examination, and fcarcely recorded in any well-authenticated or accurate narrations, had been almoft forgot; or were fo obfeurely remembered, as only to fervc the purpofe of producing perplexing debates about their fituation and extent; if not to fuggefl doubts about their very exiftence.
* Magalhacns's Voyage was undertaken in 1519*
t See the particulars of their difcoveries in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Collection of Voyages in the South Pacific Ocean.
Vol. I. b It
It teems, indeed, to have become a very early object of policy in the Spanifh councils, to difcontinue and to dif-courage any farther refearches in that quarter. Already mailers of a larger empire on the continent of America than they could conveniently govern, and of richer mines of the precious metals on that continent than they could convert into ufe, neither avarice nor ambition furnifhed rea-fons for aiming at a frefh acceflionof dominions. And thus, though fettled all along the fhores of this Ocean, in a fitua-tion fo commodious for profecuting difcoveries throughout its wide extent, the Spaniards remained fatisfied with a coafling intercourfe between their own ports ; never flretch-ing acrofs the vaft gulph that feparates that part of America from Afia, but in an unvarying line of navigation ; perhaps in a fingle annual fhip, between Acapulco and Manilla.
The tracks of other European navigators of the South Pacific Ocean, were, in a great meafure, regulated by thofe of the Spaniards ; and confequently limited within the fame narrow bounds. With the exception, perhaps, of two in-flances only, thofe of Le Maire and Roggewein, no mips of another nation had entered this fea, through the Strait of Ma-galhaens, or round Cape Horn, but for the purpofes of clan-deftine trade with the Spaniards, or of open hofliliry againft them : purpofes which could not be anfwered, without pre-eluding any probable chance of adding much to our flock of difcovery. For it was obvioufly incumbent on all fuch adventurers, to confine their cruifes within a moderate diftance of the Spanifh fettlements; in the vicinity of which alone they could hope to exercife their commerce, or to execute their predatory and military operations. Accordingly, foon after emerging from the Strait, or completing
pletlng the circuit of Tierra del Fuego, they began to hold a Northerly courfc, to the uninhabited ifland of Juan Fernandez, their ufual fpot of rendezvous and refreshment. And, after ranging along the continent of America, from Chili to California, they either reverfed their courfe back to the Atlantic ; or, if they ventured to extend their voyage, by ftretch-ing over to Alia, they never thought of trying experiments in the unfrequented and unexplored parts of the Ocean ; but chofe the beaten path (if the exprcilion may be ufed)f within the limits of which it was likely that they might meet with a Philippine galleon, to make their voyage profitable to themfelves; but could have little profpect, if they had beendefirous. of making it ufeful to the world, by gaining any acceflion of new land to the Map of the World.
By the natural operation of thefe caufes, it could not but happen, that little progrefs mould be made toward obtaining a full and accurate knowledge of the South Pacific Ocean. Something, however, had been attempted by the induftrious, and once enterprifing Dutch; to whom we are indebted for three voyages, undertaken for the purpofes of difcovery; and whofe refearches, in the Southern latitudes of this Ocean, are much better afcertained than are thofe of the earlier Spanifh navigators above mentioned.
Le Maire and Schouten, in 1616, and Roggewein, in 1722, wifely judging, that nothing new could be gained by adhering to the ufual pafTage on the North fide of the line, traverfed this Ocean from Cape Horn to the Eaft Indies, crofting the South tropic; a fpace which had been fo fcldom, and fo ineffectually vifitcd ; though popular belief, fortified by philofophical Speculation, expected there to reap the richeft harvelt of difcovery,
b 2 Tafman,
Tafman, in 1642, in his extenfive circuit from Batavia* through the South Indian Ocean, entered the South Pacific, at its greateft diflance from the American fide, where it never had been examined before. And his range continued from a high Southern latitude, Northward to New Guinea, and the iflands to the Eaft of it near the equator, produced intermediate difcoveries, that have rendered his voyage memorable in the annals of navigation.
But flill, upon the whole, what was effected in thefe three expeditions, ferved only to fliew how large a field was rcferved for future and more pcrfevering examination. Their refults had, indeed, enabled geographers to diverfify the vacant uniformity of former charts of this Ocean, by the infertion of fome new iflands. But the number, and the extent of thefe infertion s were fo inconfiderable, that they may be faid to appear
Rari, nantes in gurgitc vafto..
And, if the difcoveries were few, thofe few were made very imperfectly. Some coafts were approached, but not landed upon and paflcd without waiting to examine their extent, and connection with thofe that might exift at no great diftance. If others were landed upon, the vifits were, in general, fo tranfient, that it was Scarcely pofllble to build upon a foundation, fo weakly laid, any information that could even gratify idle curiofity; much lefs fatisfy philofo-phical inquiry, or contribute greatly to the fafety, or to the fuccefs of future navigation.
Let us, however, do juftice to thefe beginnings of difcovery. To the Dutch we muft, at leaft, afcribe the merit of being our harbingers, though we afterward went beyond
6 them
them in the road they had firfl; ventured to tread. And with what fuccefs his Majefty's mips have, in their repeated voyages, penetrated into the obfcureft recefTes of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from the following enumeration of their various and very extenfive operations, which have drawn up the veil that had hitherto been thrown over the geography of fo great a proportion of the globe.
1. The feveral lands, of which any account had been given, as feen by any of the preceding navigators, SpanifTi or Dutch, have been carefully looked for; and mofl of them (at lcaft fuch as feemed to be of any confequence) found out and vifited; and not vifited in a curfory manner,
but every means ufcd- to correct former miftakes, and to
fupply former deficiencies, by making accurate inquiries alTiore, and taking fkilful furveys of their coafts, by failing round them. Who has not heard, or read, of the boafted Tierra Auftralia del Efpiriht Santo of Quiros ? But its bold pretentions to be a part of a Southern continent, could not {land Captain Cook's examination, who failed round it, and alligned it its true pofition and moderate bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides
2. Befides perfecting many of the difcoveries of their predecefTors, our late navigators have enriched geographical knowledge with a long catalogue of their; own. The Pacific Ocean, within the South tropic, repeatedly traverfed, in every direction, was found to fwarm with a feemingly endlefs profufion of habitable fpots of land.   Illands fcattered through the amazing fpace :
* Bougainville, in 1768, did no more than difcover that the land here was not connected, but compofed of iflands.   Captain Cook, in 1774, explored the whole group.... See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 96.
of;
of near fourfcore degrees of longitude, feparated at various diftances, or grouped in numerous cluflers, have, at their approach, as it were, ftarted into exiftence ; and fuch ample accounts have been brought home concerning them and their inhabitants, as may ferve every ufeful purpofe of inquiry; and, to ufe Captain Cook's words, who bore fo con-fiderable a (hare in thofe difcoveries, have left little more to be done in that part *.
3. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them contributed toward increafing our knowledge of the iflands that exift in the Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the Southern tropic; but how far that ocean reached to the Weft, what lands bounded it on that fide, and the connection of thofe lands with the difcoveries of former navigators, was flill the reproach of geographers, and remained abfolutely unknown, till Captain Cook, during his firft voyage in 1770f, brought back the moft fatisfactory decifion of this important queilion. With a wonderful perfeverance, antl confum-mate flail, amidft an uncommon combination of perplexities and dangers, he traced this coaft near two thoufand miles from the 30* of South latitude, crofs the tropic, to its Northern extremity, within io°i- of the equinoctial, where it was found to join the lands already explored by the Dutch, in feveral voyages from their Afiatic fettlcments, and to which they have given the name of New Holland. Thofe difcoveries made in the laft century, before Tafman's voyage, had traced the North and the Weft coafts of this iand; and Captain Cook, by his extenfive operations on its Eaft fide, left little to be done toward completing the full circuit of it. Between Cape Hicks, in latitude 38°, where his examination of this coaft began; and that part of Van
• Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239. t See Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. iii#
4 Diemen's
Diemen's Land, from whence Tafman took his departure, was not above fifty-five leagues. It was highly probable, therefore, that they were connected; though Captain Cook cautioufly fays, that he could not determine whether his New South Wales, that is, the Eaft Coaft of New Holland, joins to Van Diemens Land, or no*. But what was thus left undetermined by the operations of his firft voyage, was, in the courfe of his fecond, foon cleared up; Captain Furncaux, in the Adventure, during his feparation from the Refolution (a fortunate feparation as it thus turned out) in 1773, having explored Van Diemen's Land, from its Southern point, along the Eaft coaft, far beyond Tafman's ftation, and on to the latitude 3 8°, where Captain Cook's examination of it in 1770 had commenced f.
It is no longer, therefore, a doubt, that we have now a full knowledge of the whole circumference of this vaft body of land, this fifth part of the world (if I may fo fpeak), which our late voyages have difcovered to be of fo amazing a magnitude, that, to ufe Captain Cook's words, it Is of a larger extent than any other country in the known world, that does not bear the name of a continent %.
4. Tafman having entered the Pacific Ocean, after leaving Van Diemen's Land, had fallen in with a coaft to which he gave the name of New Zealand. The extent of this coaft, and its pofition in any direction but a part of its Weft fide, which he failed along in his courfe Northward, being left abfolutely unknown, it had been a favourite opinion amongft geographers, fince his time, that New Zealand was
* Hawkefworth, Vol. iii. p. 483. t Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 114.. % Hawefworth, Vol, iii. p. 622.
a part
a part of a Southern continent, running North and South, from the 330 to the 64* of South latitude, and its Northern coaft, ftretching crofs the South Pacific to an immenfc diftancc, where its Eaftcrn boundary had been fcen by Juan Fernandez, half a century before. Captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, has totally deftroyed this fuppofi-tion. Though Tafman muft flill have the credit of having firft feen New Zealand; to Captain Cook folely belongs that of having really explored it. He fpent near fix months upon its coafts in 1769 and 1770*, circumnavigated it completely, and afecrtained its extent and divifion into two iflandsf. Repeated vifits fince that, have perfected this important difcovery, which, though now known to be no part of a Southern continent, will, probably, in all future charts of the world, be diftinguifhed as the largeft iflands that exift in that part of the Southern hemifpherc.
5. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea, was a (]iieftion involved in much doubt and uncertainty, before Captain Cook's failing between them, through Endeavour Strait, decided it. We will not hefiratc to call this an important acquifition to geography. For though the great fagacity and extenfive reading of Mr. Dalrymple, had difcovered fome traces of fuch a pafTage having been found before J, yet thefe traces were fo obfeure, and fo little known in the prefent age, that they had not generally regulated the conftrucTion of our charts ; the Prefident De
* From October 6, 1769, to March 31, 1770.
t Its Southern extremity nearly in latitude 470, and its Northern in 35°!. See Captain Cook's chart, in Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. 281.
( See the track of Torre, in one of Quiros's Ihips, in 1606, between New Holland and New Guinea, upon Mr. Dalrymple's Chart of Difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, before 1764.
BrolTes,
BrofTes*, who wrote in 1756, and was well verfed in geographical refearches, had not been able to fatisfy himfelf about them; and Monf. de Bougainville, in 1768, who had ventured to fall in with the South coaft of New Guinea, near ninety leagues to the Weftward of its South Eaft point, chofc rather to work thofe ninety leagues directly to windward, at a time when his people were in fuch diftrcfs for proviftons as to eat the feal-fkins from ofF the yards and rigging, than to run the rifk of finding a pafTage, of the exiftence of which he entertained the ftrongeft doubts, by perfevering in his Wefterly courfe f. Captain Cook therefore in this part of his voyage (though he modcftly difclaims all merit J), has eftablifhed, beyond future controverfy, a fact of ef-fential fervice to navigation, hy opening if not a new, at leaft an unfrequented and forgotten communication between the South Pacific and Indian Oceans.
6. One more difcovery, for which we are indebted to Captain Carteret, as fimilar in fome degree to that laft men-tioned, may properly fucceed it, in this enumeration. Dampier, in failing round what was fuppofed to be part of the coaft of New Guinea, difcovered it to belong to a fepa-rate ifland, to which he gave the name of New Britain, But that the land which he named New Britain, mould be fub-divided again into two feparate large iflands, with many
* M. de BroiTes fays of New Guinea : " C'eft une longue iflc, ou prefqu' ifle, ** fi elle touche a la Nouvelle Hollande."   Navigations aux Terres AujlraUs, Tom. i.
P- 434-
f " Le trifle etat ou nous etions reduits, ne nous permettoit de chcrclier cn faifant ** route a l'oueft, un paflage au fud de la Nouvelle Guinee, qui nous frayat par 1c *l Golfe de la Carpcnterie une route nouvelle & courte aux iles Moluques. Rint " n'etoit a la veriti plus problematique que I'exijltnce de CC pajfagt." Voyngc autour du Monde, p. 259.
% Hawkefworth, Vol. iii. p. 660.
Vol, I. c fmaller
fmaller intervening, is a point of geographical information, which, if ever traced by any of the earlier! navigators of the South Pacific, had not been handed down to the prefent age : and its having been afcertained by Captain Carteret, deferves to be mentioned as a difcovery, in the ftrictefl fenfc of the word ; a difcovery of the utmofl importance to navigation. St. George's Channel, through which his fhip found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, from the Pacific into the Indian Ocean, to ufe the Captain's own words*, *f is a much better and fhorter paffage, whether from the Eaftward or Weftward, than round all the iflanda and lands to the Northward f."
V.
The voyages of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret were principally confined to a favourite object of difcovery in the South Atlantic, and though acceflions to geography were procured by them in the South Pacific, they could do but little toward giving the world a complete view of the contents of that immenfe expanfe of ocean, through which they only held a direct track, on their way homeward by the Eafl-Indies. Cook, indeed, who was appointed to the conduct of the fuccecding voyage, had a more accurate examination of the South Pacific intrufted to him. But as the improvement of aflronomy went hand in hand, in his in-flructions, with that of geography, the Captain's folicitude
* Hawkefworth, Vol. i. p. 563.
t The pofition of the Solomon Iflands, Mendana*5 celebrated difcovery, will no longer remain a matter in debate amongft geographers, Mr. Dalrymple having, 021 the moft fatisfadlory evidence, proved, that they are the cluftcr of iflands which com., prizes what has fmce been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. The great light thrown on that clufter by Captain Carteret's difcovery, is a ftrong confirmation of this.   See Mr. Dalrymplc's Collection of Voyages,. Vol. i. p. 16 — 21.
6 to
to arrive at Otaheite time enough to obferve the tranftt of V-enus, put it out of his power to deviate from his direct: track, in fcarch of unknown lands that might lie-to the South Earl: of that ifland.   By this unavoidable attention to his duty, a very confiderable part of the South Pacific, and that part where the richeft mine of difcovery was fuppofed to exift, remained unvifited and unexplored, during that voyage in the Endeavour.   To remedy this, and to clear up a point, which, though many of the learned were confident of, upon principles of fpeculative reafoning, and many of the unlearned admitted, upon what they thought to be credible tcflimony, was flill held to be very problematical, if not abfolutely groundless, by others who were lefs fanguine or more incredulous ; his Majefty, always ready to forward every inquiry that can add to the flock of interefting knowledge in every branch, ordered another expedition to be undertaken.   The fignal fervices performed by Captain Cook, during his firft voyage, of which we have given the outlines, marked him as the fittcfl perfon to finifh an examination which he had already fo fkilfully executed in part. Accordingly, be was fent out in 1772, with two Ihips, the Refolution and Adventure, upon the moft enlarged plan of difcovery known in the annals of navigation.   For he was inflructed not only to circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in high Southern latitudes, making fuch traverfes, from time to time, into every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as might finally and effectually refolve the much agitated qucftion about the exiftence of a Southern continent, in any part of the Southern hemifphere acceflible by navigation.
The ample acceflions to geography, by the difcovery of many iflands within the Tropic in the Pacific Ocean, in the
c 2 courfe
courfe of this voyage, which was carried on, with fingular perfeverance, between three and four years, have been already Hated to the reader. But the general fearch now made, throughout the whole Southern hemifphere, as being the principal object in view, hath been referved for this Separate article. Here, indeed, we are not to take notice of lands that have been difcovered, but of feas failed through, where lands had been fuppofed to exift. In tracing the route of the Refolution and Adventure, throughout the South Atlantic, the South Indian, and the South Pacific Oceans that environ the globe, and combining it with the route of the Endeavour, we receive what may be called ocular demonftration, that Captain Cook, in his perfevering refearches, failed over many an extenfive continent, which, though fuppofed to have been feen by former navigators, at the approach of his fhips, funk into the bofom of the ocean, and, like the bafelefs fabric of a vifwn> left not a rack behind*.
It
• It muft be obferved, however, that Monficur le Monier, in the Memoirs of the French Academy of Sciences for 1776, pleads for the exiftence of Cape Circumci* fion, feen by Bouvet in 1738, which our Englifh navigator fought for in vain, and fuppofes to have been only an ifland of ice. Mr. Wales, in a paper read before the Royal Society, very forcibly replied to M. le Monier's objections j and the attack having been repeated, he has drawn up a more extended defence of this part of Captain Cook's Journal, which he hath very obligingly communicated, and is here in-ferted.
Arguments, tending to prove that Captain Cook fought for Cape Clrtumcifion under the pro* per Meridian ; and that the Objections which have hen made to his Condutl, in this refpetl, arc not well founded.
In the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris for 1776, printed in 1779, M. Le Monier has made fome remarks, with a defign to fhew that Captain Cook fought the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, in a wrong place j and that, inftead oAooking for it under the meridian of 90 | or jou of Eaft longitude, he ought to have looked for it under a meridian which is only 3°, or 30 \ to the Eaftward of the
meridian,
It has been urged, that the exiftence of a Southern continent is neceflary to preferve an equilibrium between the
two
meridian of Greenwich : and confequently that this land may exift, notwithftanding all that has yet been done to find it. M. Le Monier has alfo two additional Memoirs on the fame fubject, in the volume for 1779, occafroned, as it appears, by fome objections which have been made to his former Memoir before the Academy. For fome reafon or other, the Academy has not thought proper to print the objections which -have bedVi made to M. Le Monicas hypothefis; nor has he been particular enough in his two Memoirs, which reply to them, to enable me to fay of what importance the objections arc. I can only gather, that they contain fome exceptions to the quantity by which M. Le Monier aflerts the variation alters in io° of longitude, under the parallel of 540 South ; and which, I conceive, has little to do in the difpute.
Whether the land, ufually called Cape Circumcifion, exifts or not, is a point of fmall importance to geography ; as the moft ftrenuous aflerters of its exiftence muft: allow it to be a very mmnftderable ifland, and of no ufc. This, therefore, is not, in itfelf, a matter worthy of difpute : but, in affertitfg this, jut. Le Monitr lias, and I am forry to obferve it, with fome afperity too, particularly in his fecond Memoir, endeavoured to cenfure the judgment and conduct of Captain Cook, whofc memory I have every reafon to revere, as well as the judgment of thofe who were with him; and, on this account, I cannot help feeling myfclf called on to explain the motives which induced Captain Cook to place no dependance on the arguments, now adduced by M. Le Monier, in fupport of his fuppofition ; and which, M. Le Monier muft know, were not unattended to, at that time, from what the Captain has faid, p. 236. Vol. II. of his Account of the Voyage. And it may be proper to obferve here, that what fell from Captain Cook, on this fubject, was to fliew that this circumftance was then attended to, and not to throw blame on M. Bouvet, for whofe memory and abilities Captain Cook entertained great refpect: nor is it incompatible with the utmoft: refpect, for a man to have a favourable opinion of his own labours; or to endeavour to fhew why he thinks the difagreement between them and thofe of another perfon, when there is one, does not arife from an error committed by himfelf. There could, therefore, be no occafion for M. Le Monier to exprefs himfelf as he has done in 1 feveral parts of his fecond Memoir.
The fubftance of M. Le Monier's argument is this. In 1739, when M. Bouvet* s difcovery is fuppofed to have been made, the methods for determining the longitude of a fhip at fea were very defective j and, of courfe, the longitude of any land which happened accidentally to be feen by one, was equally uncertain. On a prcfumption that this was the cafe with refpect to Cape Circumcifion, M. Le Mcnicr enquires into the quantity of the variation of the magnetic needle, obferved by M. Bouvet at that place, and alfo into obfcrvations of the fame kind, made at other places in the neighbourhood of it, about the fame time, as well as both before and fince. And by comparing thefe obfervations together, he concludes, that at the time when Captain Cook was
in
two hemifpheres. But however plaufible this theory may feem, at firfl fight, experience has abundantly detected iis
fallacy.
in thefe fcas, the variation of the needle at Cape Circumcifion muft have been io° Wefterly : whereas, in the moft Wefterly point of Captain Cook's tract, where he was fufficiently near the parallel of 540 South, to have feen land fituatcd in it, the variation was 130 £ Wefterly. This difference of 3°!, in the variation, anfwers to ' about 70 of longitude, in this part of the parallel of 540 South: and by fo much did Captain Cook fall in with this parallel to the Eaftward of what he ought to have done to fee the land in queftion. " Hence (M. Le Monier infers), that it is not furpriz-" ing the Eritifh navigator fhould not find Cape Circumcifion under a meridian " which is a8°| to the Eaftward of Ferro, when it is really fituated .ndera meridian " which is but 210 \ to the Eaftward of it,"
In replying to thefe allegations, I fhall, firft, fhew, that, granting the dependence which M. Le Monier fuppofes may be placed on obfervations of the variation made at fea, hehasftatcd the quantity of the variation, obferved on board the Refolution, very erroncoufly.
Secondly, I fhall prove, beyond contradiction, that obfervations of the variation, made at fea, cannot be depended on, for the purpofes to which M. Le Monier has applied them.
And, laftly, that no material error had crept into M. Bouvet's reckoning; but that if any error did exift, it inuft have been of a contrary nature to that which M, Le Monier fuppofes.
That M. Le Monier has not given altogether a true reprefentation of the matter, will appear from hence. On the 16th' of February, at noon *, the Refolution was in latitude 54° 31 % South, which is fufficiently near the parallel of 540 South, to fee high land, the Northern extremity of which lies to the Southward of that parallel ; and at that time we were in 6° Eaft of Greenwich, or 23° ^ Eaft of the ifland of Ferro : that is, 40! lefs than is afligned for our fituation by M. Le Monier. On the evening of the fame day, the fliip being in latitude 540 24', and longitude 6° 30', or 24° \ Eaft of Ferro, the variation was no more than 12° 7 Weft, which alfo is near a degree and half lefs than M. Le Mcnier fays it was, when we firft arrived in a proper parallel for feeing Cape Circumcifion. It is true, the next morning, in latitude 540 a I J' South, longitude 8° 6' Eaft, we had 130 42' Weft variation \ but this was after we had run more than two degrees within light of the parallel of 540 South. It is, moreover, highly probable, that both thefe variations were too great; for, on the 17th, in the evening, latitude 540 25' South, and longitude 90 20' Eaft ; that is, i°£
more
* I here go by the dates in " The Original Agronomical Obfcrvations," printed by order of the-Board of Longitude; which, after the 14th of February 1775, differ one day from Captain Cook's dace,.
fallacy. In confequence of Captain Cook's voyage, now under consideration, we have a thorough knowledge of the
flate
more to the Eaftward, and after we had run 3* f on tne parallel we were then on,, th* variation was no more than 13* 16' Weft. It is alfo worthy of remark, that on the 14th, in the evening, latitude 560 14.Y South, and longitude 40 50' Eaft, which is but i° 10' to the Wcftward of the point, where the Refolution came firft into a proper fituation to fee land, fituated in the parallel of 540 South, the variation obferved was no more than 6° 50' Weft. And we may further add, that on the lft of March, 1774, the Adventure had no more than I2°| Weft variation, though fhe was then confiderably both to the Northward and Eaftward of our fituation on the 17th of February in the morning, on both which accounts the variation ought to have been greater, inftead of a whole degree lefs. From all thefe circumftances, there can ba little doubt but that the two variations, obferved by us on the 16th and 17th of February, were too great ; or that the variation, at the point where the Refolution firft came fufficiently near the uaiaiici uf 5^" South, to fee land, the Northern extremity of which is fituated in that parallel, could not be more than u° £ Weft, inftead of j 3* 1, as M. Le Monier has reprefented it.
Under this head of enquiry I may alfo obferve, that although the Refolution was too much to the Southward of the parallel of 540 South, when fhe crofted the meridian which is 210 \ to the Eaftward of Ferro ; that is, 301 Eaft of Greenwich, the longitude which M: Le Monier affigns for Cape Circumcifion, to fee if it had been in that fituation ; yet her confort, the Adventure, was for feveral degrees on each fide of that meridian ; and especially when fhe had io°| of Weft variation, full as near to the parallel of 54° South, as M. Bouvet was to the land when he faw it * : and on the day that fhe actually paffed that meridian, had fine clear weather f. Hence, therefore, granting M. Le Monier his own arguments, which, however, I have proved to be erroneous j and that obfervations made at fea, for the variation of the compafs, may be depended on for the purpofe of finding the longitude, it is utterly impoflible that both the Refolution and Adventure could have palled Cape Circumcifion without feeing it. But I fhall now fhew, that thefe obfervations. are liable to a much greater error than the whole quantity, fo vigoroufly infilled on by this gentleman.
I will not here run the rifk of incurring M. Le Monier'& difpleafure, by calling the accuracy of M. Bouvet's obfervations in queftion y but will admit every thing that ha himfelf can think due to the inftrumcnts and obfervations of that deferving navigator. It is enough for my argument, and it is but too evident, from the obfervations them-* felves, that ours were by no means capable of determining the variation to fo fmall a
quantity
* See The Original Agronomical Obfervations, p. 185, and Bouvet's Voyage, rubliihci by Mr. Dalrymple, p. 4, and it,
f See the Obfervations, p. zi.8.
ilate of the Southern hemifphere, and can pronounce with certainty, that the equilibrium of the globe is effectually
preferved,
quantity as that which M. Le Monier refts his whole caufe upon ; and if fo, his arguments, which depend wholly on a fuppofition, that not only they, but M. Bouvet's alfo, were capable of determining it with the utmofl exaclnefs, muft fall to the ground.
ift, It appears, from various inftances, that the variations obferved by the fame compafs would differ 30 to 50, 6", and fometimes even io°, from no other caufe whatever, but putting the fhip's head a contrary way *.
2d, That the fame compafs, in the fame fituation in every refpccl, within a few miles, but at two different times of the fame day, would give variations differing from one another, 30, 40, 50, 6°, and even 70 f.
3d, That the fame compafs, on the fame day, and in the hands of the fame obferver, will give variations differing from one another by 50, on board the fame fhip, when under fail, and when at anchor in a road-ftead J.
4th, CompafTes, made by the fame artiff, at the fame time and place, but on board different fhips, differed 30, 40, and even 50 in the variation §.
5th, The fame CompafTes, on board the fame fhip, and within a few miles of the fame fituation, but at different times of our being there, gave variations differing by 40 and 5% or upwards ||.
■6th, Different
* Seethe Original Agronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, March u, 1773, p. 37z- January 24, 1774, p. 375. and July 28, p. 378.
-j- Obfervations in the fecond Voyage, February 2, 1773, p. 371. and January 19, 1775, p. 382. Alfo Obfervations in laft Voyage, July 17, 1776, p. 179. Auguft 30, p. 181. Ja' nuary 24, 1777, p. 192. and September 15, 1778, p. 205.
% Agronomical obfervations of fecond Voyage, July 14, 1775, P* 38S-
§ Compare the Aflronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, Auguftj, and 9, and September 4, 1772, p. 181. with thofe of the fame dates, p. 369. Thofe of January 11, and 14, and February7, 1773, p. 182, with thofe of the fame dates, p. 371. Alio Allronomical Obfcrvations, made in the laft Voyage, of December 27, 1776, p. 191. fe_ bruary 22, 1778, p. 201. May c, and 8, p. 102. July 9, and 24, 1779, p. 2o9. anj January 16, 1780, p. 212. with thofe of the fame dates, p. 291, 293, 294, 297, and 298.
|| Compare Agronomical Obfervations, made in the fecond Voyage, February 10, p. 375. with Obfervations of December 11, 1774, p. 381. Alfo Obfervaticns, made in the laft VoyagMay 3, and June 18, 1779, p. 208,
preferred, though the proportion of fea actually failed through, leaves no fufficient fpace for the correfponding
mafs
6 th, Different compaffes, at the fame time, onboard the fame fhip, and in every refpect under the fame circumftances, will give variations differing from one another, i% 4°, 5% and 6° *.
Thefe differences, feveral of which happened very near the place in qucflion, arc all of them at leafl equal to, moft of them much greater, and fome of them double that which M. Le Monier founds his argument on, even according to his own account of itT which I have already fticwn is by no means admiffible, and, therefore, totally invalidate it. To allege that the inflruments made ufe of in Captain Cook's two voyages were bad, or that the obfervers were not expert in the ufe of them, will anfwer no purpofc : they are the inflruments and obfervers which M. Le Monier's argument muft reft on; and, therefore, let thofe of the French, or any other navigator, have been ever fo much better than theyjwere (which few will be hardy enough to afTcrt, and fewer ftill found wuUuougi, l~ h+Um„.)r ;t wm ava;j nothing to the point in difpute, which muft evidently fall to the ground, if the obfervations made for finding the variation in Captain Cook's voyage are not fufficient to fupport it. What then muft become of it, if M. Bouvet1^ obfervations, of this kind, were liable to an equal, or a greater error ? which, without any reafonable caufe for offence, we might fuppofc they were.
It n not neccnary to account for thefe differences in the obferved variations in this place, nor yet to point out the rcafons why fuch anomalies have not been noticed in obfervations of this kind before. I fhall, however, remark, that I have hinted at fome of the caufes in my introduction to the obfervations which were made in Captain Cook's fecond voyage; and many others will readily offer themfelves to perfons who have had much practice in making thefe obfervations, and who have attentively con-fidered the principles on which the inflruments are conftru&ed, and the manner in which they are fabricated. Nor is-it at all furprifing, that the errors to which the inflruments and obfcrvations of this kind are liable, fhould not have been difcovered before, fincc no navigators before us ever gave the fame opportunity, by multiplying their obfervations, and making them under fuch a variety of circumftances as we did.
Having now fully fhewn, that the circumftances, brought forward by M. Le Monier, in fupport of his argument, are neither fuch as can be depended on, nor yet
fairly
* Obfervations made in the fecond Voyage, February z, 1773, p. 371. March 18, p. 372. and January 24, 1774, p. 37$. See alfo Obfervations made fall Voyage, Auguft 18, 1776, p. 180. October 7, and 14, p. 189, and 190. December \z, p. ibid. January 24, 1777, p. 192. March 10, p. 193. July 9, and 17, 1779, p. 209. January 16, 1780, p. 2I2.  March 24, p. 213, and May 19, p, -14.
Voi. I. d
xxvi
INTRODUCTION;
mafs of land, which, on fpeculative arguments had beer* maintained to be neceilary *.
If
fairly reprefented, I {hall next attempt to demonftrate, that it is utterly improbable M. Bouvet could be out, in his account of longitude, fo much as is here fuppofed, in the fhort run which had been made from the ifland of St. Catherine, the place they took their departure from: on the contrary, that there is fufficient reafon to believe the error, of whatever magnitude it might be, was of a different nature from that contended for, and that the two fhips, inftead of being to the Weftward of their account of longitude, were actually to the Eaftward of it. For, according to their Journals, extracted from the archives of the French Eaft-India Company, by M. D'Apres, printed under his inflection* and publifhcd by Mr. Dalrymple, F. R. S. amongfl other voyages made for the purpofe of examining the Southern parts of the Atlantic Ocean, the longitude, according to the Eagle's run from St. Catherine's, was 260 27', and according to the Mary's, 260 20' Eaft of Teneriff; that is, 90 57', and 90 50' Eaft of Greenwich, or 270 43', and 270 36' Eaft of Ferro. But the Mary, which went to the Cape of Good Hope, made 70 13' Eaft longitude from the land in. queftion, to that place. Confequently the Cape of Good Hope being in longitude 1:83 23' E^ °f Greenwich, Cape Circumcifion will be in n° 10' Eaft of Greenwich, or i° 20' more to the Eaftward than the run by the fame fhip from the ifland of St. Catherine's makes it. Again, the Eagle made the difference of longitude between Cape Circumcifion, and the ifland of R;odrigues, 490 44' j and by the obfervations of M. Pingre, this ifland is in 620 50' of Eaft longitude from Greenwich : Cape Circumcifion is therefore in 13° (1 Eaft of Greenwich, or 20 9' more to the Eaftward than by the Eagle's run from St. Catherine's. Hence, therefore, as the longitude of this land, refulting from acomparifon of that fhewn by each of the fhips,. on their making land at places where the. longitude is exceedingly well determined, is greater than that which refults from their run from St. Catherine's, the longitude of which is not known with certainty within feveral degrees, we may infer, with great fafety, that whatever the quantity of M. Bouvet's error might be, when he is fuppofed to have feen Cape Circumcifion, it muft have been in defect, and not in excefs, as M. Le Monier fuppofes it..
Christ's Hospital, \ W. WALES.
April 20, 1784. j
* The judgment of the ingenious Author of Rethcrches fur les Americains, on this qucflion,. fcems to be very deferving of a place here: 44 Qu'on calcule, commc on *« voudrn, on fera toujours contraint d'avouer, qu'il y a une plus grande portion de « continent fituee dans la latitude feptentrionalc, que dans la latitude auftrale.
*< Ce'ft fort mal a-propos, qu'on a foutenu que ccttc repartition inigale ne fauroit u cxifler, fous pretextc que le globs pcrdroit fon cquilibrcj faute d'un contrepoids fuf-
" .fifant
If former navigators have added more land to the known globe than Captain Cook, to him, at leaft, was referved the honour of being foremoft in difclofing to us the extent of fea that covers its furface. His own fummary view of the tranfactions of this voyage, will be a proper conclufion to thefe* remarks: " I had now made the circuit of the " Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traverfcd it in <c fuch a manner as to leave not the leaft room for there " being a continent, unlefs near the pole, and out of the " reach of navigation. By twice viiiting the Tropical Sea, " I had not only fettled the fituation of fome old difcove-> u ries, but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very little iu be d^nc, even in that part. Thus I flatter " myielf, that the intention of the voyage has, in every rc-" fpect, been fully anfwered; the Southern hemifpherc " fufficiently explored; and a final end put to the fearching " after a Southern continent, which has, at times, engroffed «f the attention of fome of the Maritime Powers for near *' two centuries pad, and been a favourite theory amongfl «« the geographers of all ages*."
Thus far, therefore, the voyages to difclofe new tracks of navigation, and to reform old defects in geography, appear to have been profecuted with a fatisfactory mare of fuc-cefs. A perufal of the foregoing fummary of what had been done, will enable every one to judge what was flill
*4 fifant au pole meridionale. II eft vrai qu'un pied cube d'eau falee ne pcfe pas au-** tant qu'ua pied cube de terre ; mais on aurwit du reflechir, qu'il peut y avoir fous ** l'ocean des lits & des couches de matieres, dont la pefanteur fpecifique varie & " l'innni, & que le peu de profondeur d'une mer, verfee fur una grande furface, con-*f trebnlancc les endroits ou il y a moins de mer, mais ou elle eft plus profonde,** Recherches Pbilofophiques, Tom. ii. p. 375.
* Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 239.
d 2 wanting
wanting to complete the great plan of difcovery. The Southern hemifphere had, indeed, been repeatedly vifited, and its utmoft accefTible extremities been furveyed. But much uncertainty, and, of courfe, great variety of opinion, fubfifted, as to the navigable extremities of our own hemifphere ; particularly, as to the exiftence, or, at leaft, as to the practicability of a Northern paffage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, either by failing Eaftward, round Afia, or We ft ward, round North America.
It was obvious, that if fuch a paffage could be effected, voyages to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the Eaft Indies in general, would be much fhortened; and consequently become more profitable, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. Accordingly, it became a favourite object of the Englifh to effectuate this, above two centuries ago; and (to fay nothing of Cabot's original attempt, in J497> which ended in the difcovery of Newfoundland, and the Labradore coaft) from Frobifher's firft voyage to find a Weftern pafTage, in 1576, to thofe of James and of Fox, in 1631, repeated trials had been made by our enter-prizing adventurers. But though farther knowledge of the Northern extent of America was obtained in the courfe of thefe voyages, by the difcovery of Hudfon's and Baffin's Bays, the wifhed-for paffage, on that fide, into the Pacific Ocean, was ftill unattained. Our countrymen, and the Dutch, were equally unfuccefsful, in various attempts, to find this pafTage in an Eaftern direction. Wood's failure, in 1676, feems to have clofed the long lift of unfortunate Northern expeditions in that century ; and the difcovery, if not abfolutely defpaired of, by having been fo often miffed, ceafed, for many years, to be fought for.
Mr.
Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the probability of a North Wed paffage through Hudfon's Bay, in our owntime? once more recalled the attention of this country to that undertaking ; and, by his active zeal, and perfevering folici-tation, renewed the fpirit of difcovery. But it was renewed in vain. For Captain Middleton, fent out by Government in 1741, and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private focietyr in 1746, though encouraged by an act of Parliament palled in the preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty thoufand pounds to the difcovery of a paffage, returned from Hudfon's Bay with reports of their proceedings, that left the accomplifhment of this favourite object at as great
a diflance as ever.
When refearches of this kind, no longer left to the foli» citation of an individual, or to the fubferiptions of private adventurers, became cherifhed by the Royal attention, in? the prefent reign, and warmly promoted by the Miniftcr at the head of the naval department, it was impofllblc, while fo much was done toward exploring the remoter! corners of the Southern hemifphere, that the Northern paffage mould not be attempted. Accordingly, while Captain Cook was profecuting his voyage toward the South Pole, in 1773, Lord Mulgrave failed with two fhips, to determine hoiv far navigation vuas practicable toward the North Pole. And though his Lordfhip met with the fame infuperable bar to his pro-grefs, which former navigators had experienced *, the hopes of opening a communication between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, by a Northerly courfe, were not abandoned;
* See the Iii (lory of former attempts to fail toward the North Pole, in the Introduction to Lurd Mulgrave's Journal. Mr. Barringion has collected feveral in-ftanc<   .f fhips adt auciflg to very high latitudes,   See his Milcxllanies, p. 1 — 124.
I and
X1Z
INTRODUCTION.
and a voyage for that purpofe, was ordered to be undertaken.
The operations propofcd to be purfued, were fo new, fo cxtcnfivc, and fo various, that the fkill and experience of Captain Cook, it was thought, would be requifite to conduct them. Without being liable to any charge of want of zeal for the public fervice, he might have palled the reft of his days in the command to which he had been appointed in Greenwich Hofpital, there to enjoy the fame he had dearly earned in two circumnavigations of the world. But he cheerfully relinquifhed this honourable ftation at home; and, happy that the Earl of Sandwich had not eaft his eye upon any other Commander, engaged in the conduct of the expedition, the hiftory of which is prefented to the Public in thefe Volumes; an expedition that would expofe him to the toils and perils of a third circumnavigation, by a track hitherto unattempted. Every former navigator round the globe had made his pafTage home to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope; the arduous tafk was now afligned to Cap-tain Cook, of attempting it, by reaching the high Northern latitudes between Afia and America. So that the ufual plan of difcovery was reverfed; and, inftead of a pafTage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to be tried. For it was wifely forefeen, that whatever openings or inlets there might be on the Eaft fide of America, which lie in a direction which could give any hopes of a paffage, the ultimate fuccefs of it would ftill depend upon there being an open fea between the Weft fide of that continent, and the extremities of Afia. Captain Cook, therefore, was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, through the chain of his new iflands in the Southern tropic,
7 and
and having crofled the equator into its Northern Parts, then to hold fuch a courfe as might probably fix many intereft.-ing points in geography, and produce intermediate difcoveries, in his progrefs Northward to the principal fcene of his operations.
But the plan of the voyage, and the various objects it embraced, will bell appear from the Inftructions under which Captain Cook failed ; and the infertion of them here, will convey fuch authentic information, as may enable the Reader to judge with precifion how far they have been carried into execution.
By the Commissioners for executing the OfHce of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, &c.
SECRET INSTRUCTIONS for Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majcfty's Sloop the Resolution.
TTj/yHEREAS the Earl of Sandwich has fignified to us his Majefiy's-p ^ pleafure, that an attempt jhould be made to find out a Northern paffage by fea from the Pacific td the Atlantic Ocean; and whereas we have, in pur-ftiance thereof caufed his Majefly's fioops Refolution and Difcovery to be fitted, in all refpetls, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the purpofe above-mentioned,* and, from the experience we have had of your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, have thought fit to intrujl you with the con-duff of the prefenl intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to command the firfi mentionedfloop, and dirccled Captain Clerke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings-, Tou are hereby required and air eel cd to proceed with the fa id two fioops direftly to the Cape of Good Hope, unlefs you fhall judge it neceffary to flop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary Iflands, to take in wine for the ufe of their companies; in which cafe you are at liberty to do Jo, taking care to remain-there no longer than may be neceffary for that purpofe.
On
On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to Ttfrefh thejloops com" frames, and to caufe theJloops to befupplied with as much prov'ftons and water as they can conveniently fiow.
Ton are, if poffible, to leave the Cape cf Good Hope by the end of OeJober, or the beginning of November next, and proceed to the Southward in Jearch of feme iflands faid to have been lately feen by the French, in the latitude of"48°o' South, and about the meridian of Mauritius. In cafe you find thofe iflands, you arc to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon difecvering one, make the neceffary obfervations to facilitate the finding it again j as a good pert, in that fituation, may hereafter prove very vfeful, although it fhould afford little or nothing more than flicker, wood, and water. You are not, however, to fpend too much time in looking out for thofe iflands, or in the examination of them, if found, but proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Iflles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither, if you fhould judge it neceffary and convenient), and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the fioops companies the refrejhment they may fiand in need cf, before you profecute the farther objett of thefe infiruttions.
Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Ifles, you are to land Omiah at fuch of them as he may choofe, and to leave him there.
You are to diftribute among the Chiefs of thofe iflands fuch part of the pre* fents with which you have been fupplied, as you fljall judge proper, referving the remainder to diftribute among the natives of the countries you may difcover in the Northern Hemifphere: And having refrejhed the people belonging to the fioops under your command, and taken on board fuch wood and water as they may refpeeJively fiand in need of, you are to leave thofe iflands in the beginning of February, or foon er if you fid all judge it neceffary, and then proceed in as direct a courfe as ycu can to the coaft of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude 0/450 o' North ; and taking care, in your way thither, not to lofe any time in Jearch of new lands, or to flop at any^ you may fall in with, unlefs you find it neceffary to recruit your wood and water.
You are alfo, in your way thither, ftritlly enjoined not to touch upon any part of the Spaniftj dominions on the Weft em continent of America, unlefs driven thither by fome unavoidable accident; in which cafe you are to flay no longer there than fall be abfclutely neceffary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or Juljcbls of his Catholic Mcjejiy. And if, in your farther progrefs to the Northward, as hereafter directed, you find any fubjecls of any European Prince or State upon any part of the coaft you may think proper to vifity you are not to difturb them, or give
them
them any jujl caufe of offence, but, on the contrary, to treat them with civility mtd friendjhip.
Upon your arrival on the coaft of New Albion, you arc to put into the firft convenient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure refrcftjmtnts, and then to proceed Northward along the coaft, as far as the latitude cf 650, or farther, if you are not obftrutled by lands or ice-, taking care not to lofe any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get into the before-mentioned latitude of 6$°, where we could wifh you to arrive in the month offline next.   When you get that length, you are very carefully to fearch for, and to explore, fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be cf a con-fiderable extent, and pointing towards Hudfons or Baffin's Bays ; and if, from your own obfervations, or from any information yen may receive from the natives (who, there is reafon to believe, are the fame race of people, and fpeak the fame language, of which you are furnifhed with a Vocabulary, as the Ef-quimauxj, there ftjall appear to be a certainty, or even a probability, of a water paffage into the afore-mentioned days, or either of them,, you are, in fuch cafe, to ufe your utmoft endeavours to pafs through'with one or both of the fioops, unlefs you ftjall be of opinion that the paffage may be effecled with more certainty, or with'greater probability, by fmaller veffels; in which cafe you are to Jet-up the frames of one or both the fmall veffels with which you are provided, and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, ftored, and vielualled, you are to difpatch one or both of them, under the care of proper officers, with a fufficient number of petty officers, men, and boats, in order ' to attempt thefaid paffage j with fuch inftruftions for their rejoining you, if they fhould fail, or for their farther proceedings, if they fhould fucceed in the attempt, as you jhall judge moft proper.   But, neverthelefs, if you ftoallfind.it more eligible to purfue any other meafures than thofe above pointed cut, in order to make a difcovery of the before-mentioned paffage (if any fuch there be), you are at liberty, and we leave it to your difcretion, to purfue fuch meafures accordingly.
In cafe you ftjall be fatisfied that there is no paffage through to the above-mentioned bays, fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, you are, at the proper feafon of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in KamtJ-chatka, or wherever elfe you fhall judge more proper, in order to rcfreft: your people and pafs the Winter; and, in the Spring of the enfuing year lJjS, to proceed from thence to the Northward, as far as, in your prudence, you may think proper, in further fearch cf a North Eaft, or North Weft paffage, from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic Ocean, cr the North Sea ; and if, from
Vol. I, c r your
■f
your own obfervation, or any information you may receive, there fhall appear to be a probability of fuch paffage, you are to proceed as above directed: and> laving difcovered fuch paffage, or failed in the attempt, make the bejl of your iv ay back to England, by fuch route as you may think b eft for the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spithead with both fioops, where they are to remain till further order.
At whatever places you may touch in the courfe of your voyage, where accurate obfervations of the nature hereafter mentioned have not already been made, you are, as far as your time will allow, very carefully to obferve the true fituation of fuch places, both in latitude and longitude; the variation of the needle; bearings of head-lands; height, diretlion, and courfe of the tides and currents; depths and foundings of the fea-, Jhoals, rocks, &c.; and alfo to furvey, make charts, and take views of fuch bays, harbours, and different parts of the coaft, and to make fuch notations thereon, as may be ufeful cither to navigation or commerce. You are alfo carefully to obferve the nature of the foil, and the produce thereof; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it; the fifhes that are to be found in the rivers or upon the coaft, and in what plenty ; and, in cafe there are any peculiar to fuch places, to defcribe them as minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them, as you can: and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable ftones, or any extraneous foffils, you are to bring home fpecimens of each ; as alfo of the feeds of fuch trees, Jhrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to thofe places, as you may be able to collet!, and to tranfmit them to our Secretary, that proper examination and experiments may be made of them. You are likewife to obferve the genius, temper, difpofition, and number of the natives and inhabitants, where yen find any; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friend/hip with them; making them prefents of fuch trinkets as you may have on board, and they may like left; inviting them to traffic ; and /hewing them every kind of civility and regard; but taking care, neverthelefs, not to fufferyourfelf to befurprized by them, but to be always on your guard againft any accidents.
You are alfo, with the confent of the natives, to take p offejfwn, in the name if the King of Great Britain, cf convenient fituations in fuch countries as you may difcover, that have not already been difcovered or vifited by any other European power; and to diftribute among the inhabitants fuch things as will remain as traces and teftimonies of your having been there; but if you find the countries fo difcovered are uninhabited, you are to take p off ejfwn of them for his Majefty, by fetting up proper marks and inferiptions, as firft difcoverers and' poffeffors.
But
But forafmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, feveral emergencies may arife not to be forefeen, and therefore not particularly to be provided for by inftruclions before-hand; you are, in all fuch cafes, to proceed as you ftjall judge moft advantageous to the fervice on which you arc employed.
You are, by all opportunities, to fend to our Secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the furveys and drawings you ftjall have made; and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole courfe of your voyage; taking care, before you leave the floop, to demand from the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they may have kept, and to feal them up for our infpctJion; and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they fhall have permiffion fo to do: and you are to direcl Captain Clerk to do the fame, with refpetl to the officers, petty officers, and crew of the Difcovery.
If any accident fhoulJ l>«ppen to the Refolution in the COUrfe of the Voyage,
fo as to difable her from proceeding any farther, you are, in fuch cafe, to remove yourfelf and her crew into the Difcovery, and to profecute your voyage in her; her Commander being hereby ftritlly required to receive you on bjard, and to obey your orders, the fame, in every refpetl, as when you were actually on board the Refolution: And, in cafe of your inability, by ficknefs or other-wife, to carry thefe Injlruclions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the beft manner he can.
Given under our hands the 6th day of July, 1776,
SANDWICH. C. SPENCER. H. PALLISER.
By command of their Lordjhips,
PH. STEPHENS.
Befides ordering Captain Cook to fail on this important voyage, Government, in earner! about the object of it, adopted a meafure, which, while it could not but have a
e 2 powerful
#xxvi
INTRODUCTION.
powerful operation on the crews of the Refolution and Difcovery, by adding the motives of intereft, to the obligations of duty ; at the fame time encouraged all his Majefly's fubjects to engage in attempts toward the propofcd difcovery. By the act of parliament, palled in 1745 *, a reward of twenty thoufand pounds had been held out. But it had been held out only to the fhips belonging to any of his Majefy's fabjccls, exclufive of his Majefty's own fhips. The act had a ilill more capital defect. It held out this reward only to fuch fhips as fhould difcover a paffage through Hudfonys Bay ; and, as we fhall foon take occafion to explain, it was, by this time, pretty certain, that no fuch paffage cxifled within thofe limits. Effectual care was taken to remedy both thefe defects, by palling a. new law which, after reciting the provifions of the former, proceeds as follows: *f And « whereas many advantages, both to commerce and fcience, 41 may be alfo expected from the difcovery of any Northern u Pnjfa8e *or ve^e^s Dv fea> between the Atlantic and Pacific " Oceans—be it enacted, That if any fhip belonging to any 41 of his Majefly's fubjects, or to his Maje/ly, fhall find out, " and fail through, any paffage by fea, between the Atlan-" tic and Pacific Oceans, in any direction, or parallel of the " Northern hemifphere, to the Northward of the 520 of ■« Northern latitude, the owners of fuch fhips, if belong-*' ing to any of his Majefly's fubjects, or the commander^ qffi-t% cers, and feamen, of fuch jlrip belonging to his Majefy, fhall re-u ceive, as a reward for fuch difcovery, the fum of twenty " thoufand pounds.
u And whereas fhips employed, both in the Spitzbergen *c Seas, and in Davis's Straits, have frequent opportunities
* See the Statutes at Large, 18 George II. chap. 17. I
" Of
INTRODUCTION.
xxxvii
*< of approaching the North Pole, though they have not " time, during the courfe of one fummer, to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean : and whereas fuch approaches may ** greatly tend to the difcovery of a communication between 41 the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, as well as be attended 44 with many advantages to commerce and feience, &c. be Ct it enacted, That if any fhip fhall approach to within i4" " of the North Pole, the owner, &c. or commander, Sec. M fo approaching, fhall receive, as a reward for fuch firfl *« approach, the fum of five thoufand pounds *."
That nothing might be omitted that could facilitate the fuccefs of Captain Cook's expedition, fome time before he failed, in the beginning of the fummer of i776t Lieutenant Pickerfgill* appointed Commander of his Majefty's armed brig the Lion, was ordered " to proceed to Davis's Straits, " for the protection of the Britifh whale fifhers and that firfl: object being fecured, " he was then required and di-44 rected to proceed up Baffin's Bay, and explore the coaffs " thereof, as far as in his judgment the fame could be done " without apparent rifk, taking care to leave the above «f mentioned Bay fo timely, as to fecurc his return to Eng-44 land in the fall of the year j" and it was farther enjoined to him, 4£ to make nautical remarks of every kind, and to 11 employ Mr. Lane (Matter of the veffel under his com-44 mand) in furveying, making charts, and taking views of " the feveral bays, harbours, and different parts of the coaffs «« which he might vifit, and in making fuch notations thereon " as might be ufeful to geography and navigation
* Seethe Statutes at Large, 1776, 16 George III. chap. 6. t From his MS. Inftrucfions, dated May 14, 1776.
Pickerfgill,
Pickerfgill, we fee, was not to attempt the difcovery of the pafTage. He was directed to explore the coaffs of Baffin's Bay, wich a view only to bring back, the fame year, fome information, which might be an ufeful direction toward planning an intended voyage into that bay the enfuing fummer, to try for the difcovery of a pafTage on that fide, with a view to co-operate with Captain Cook, who, it was fuppofed (from the tenor of his inftruc-tions) would be trying for this pafTage, about the fame time, from the oppofite fide of America.
Pickerfgill, obeying his inflructions, at leaft in this in-ftancc, did return that year; but there were fufficient rea-fons tor not fending him out again ; and the command of the next expedition into Baffin's Bay was conferred on Lieutenant Young; whofe Inflructions, having an immediate connection with our voyage, are here inferted.
EXTRACT of INSTRUCTIONS to Lieutenant Young, commanding the Lion armed VeiFel, dated 13th March 1777.
Refolution. TJTfHEREAS, in pursuance cf the King's pleafure, fignified to us by the Dijcovtry. rr j?ari 0jr Sandwich, his Majeflys fioops named in the margin have been Jent out under the command of Captain Cook, in order, during this and the enfuing year, to attempt a difcovery of a Northern paffage, by fea, from the "Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean-, and, for that purpofe, to run up as high as the latitude of 6$° North, where it is hoped he will be able to arrive in the month of June next; and there, and as much further to the Northward as in his prudence he Jhall think proper, very carefully to fearch for and explore fuch rivers or inlets as may appear to be of a conftderable extent, and pointing to Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays, or the North Sea; and, upon finding any paffage
4 through,
through, fufficient for the purpofes of navigation, to attempt fuch paffage with one or both of the fioops ; or, if they are judged to be too large, with fmaller veffels, the frames of which have been fent out with him for that purpofe: And whereas, in purfuance of his Majefty's further pleafure, fignified as afore -faid, the armed vcffel under your command hath been fitted in order to proceed to Baffin's Bay, with a view to explore the Wefiern parts thereof, and to endeavour to find a paffage, on that fide, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and we have thought fit to intruft you with the conducl of that voyage-, Tou are therefore hereby required and direeled to put to fea in the faid armed vcfifef without a moment's lofs of time, and make the befi of your way into Baffin's Bay, andfo ufe your befi endeavours to explore the Weftern fhores thereof, as far as in your judgment the fame can be done, without apparent rifque, and to examine fuch confiderable rivers or inlets as you may difcover; and, in cafe you find any, through which there may be a probability of paffing into the Pacific Ocean, you are to attempt fuch paffage; and if you fucceed in the attempt, and fhall be able to repafs it again, fo as to return to England this year, you are to make the befi of your way to Spithead, or the Nore, and remain there until you receive further order; fending us an account of your arrival and proceedings. But if you Jhall fucceed in the attempt, and ftjall find the feafon too far advanced for you to return the fame way, you are then to look out for the moft convenient place to winter in, and to endeavour to return by the faid paffage as early in the next year as the feafon will admit, and then to make the befi of your way to England, as above dire tied.
In cafe, however, you ftjould not find, or fhould be fatisfied there is-not any probability of finding, any fuch paffage, or, finding it, you fhould not be able to get through in the veffelyou command, you are then to return to England, as before mentioned, unlefs you Jhall find any branch of the fea leading to the Weftward which you Jhall judge likely to afford a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and which you Jhall not be able to explore in the' ccurfe of this year, it being, in that cafe, left to your difcretion to jlay the. Winter in the moft commodious fituation you can find, in order to purfue the difcovery next year, if'you Jhall find it adv fable fo to do; and, having difcovered fuch paffage, or not fucceeded in the attempty you are to make the befi of your way to England, as above direeled.
It.
It was natural to hope, that foniething would have been done in one or other, or in both thefe voyages of the Lion, that might have opened our views with regard to the practicability of a paffage from this fide of America. But, unfortunately, the execution did not anfwer the expectations conceived. Pickerfgill, who had acquired profcilional experience when acting under Captain Cook, juftly merited the cenfure he received, for improper behaviour when intruded with command in Davis's Straits; and the talents of Young, as it afterward appeared, were more adapted to contribute to the glory of a victory, as Commander of a line of battle fhip, than to add to geographical difcoveries, by encountering mountains of ice, and exploring unknown coafts *.
Both Pickerfgill and Young having been ordered to proceed into Baffin's Bay ; and Captain Cook being directed not to begin his fearch till he fhould arrive in the latitude of 650, it may not be improper to fay fomething here of the reafons which weighed with thofe who planned the voyages, and framed the inflructions, to carry their views fo far-Northward, as the proper fituation, where, the pafTage, if it exifted at all, was likely to be attempted with fuccefs. It may be afked, Why was Hudfon's Bay neglected on our fide of America ; and why was not Captain Cook ordered to begin his fearch on its oppofite fide, in much lower lati-
* In the Philosophical Tranfa&ions, Vol. Ixviii. p. 1057, we have the track of PickerkriU's voyage, which, probably, may be of ufe to our Greenland fhips, as it contains many obfervations for fixing the longitude and latitude of the couth in Davis's Straits. But it appears that he never entered Baffin's Bay, the highciV Northern latitude to which he advanced being 68' 14'. i As to Young's proceedings, haying failed abfolutely in making any difcovery, it is of lefs confluence, that no communication of his journal could be procured.
tudes?
lucles ? Particularly, why not explore the (trait leading into the Weftern fea of John de Fuca, between the latitudes of 47° and 480; the Archipelago of St. Lazarus of Admiral de Fonte, between 50° and SS° > ana" tne rivers and lakes through which he found a paffage North Eaftward, till he met with a fhip from Bofton ?
As to the pretended difcoveries of de Fuca, the Greek Pilot, or of de Fonte, the Spanifh Admiral, though they have fometimes found their way into fictitious maps, or have been warmly contended for by the efpoufers of fanciful fyftems; to have directed Captain Cook to fpend any time in tracing them, would have been as wife a meafure as if he had been directed to trace the iituation of LUHput or Brob-dignac. The latter are, indeed, confelTedly, mere objects of imagination; and the former, deftitute of any fufficient external evidence, bear fo many ftriking marks of internal abfurdity, as warrant our pronouncing them to be the fabric of impofture. Captain Cook's inflructions were founded on an accurate knowledge of what had been already done, and of what (till remained to do; and this knowledge pointed out the inutility of beginning his fearch for a paffage till his arrival in the latitude of 650; of which every fair and capable inquirer will be abundantly convinced, by an attention to the following particulars.
Middleton, who commanded the expedition in 1741 and 1742, into Hudfon's Bay, had proceeded farther North than any of his predecelTors in that navigation. But though, from his former acquaintance with that Bay, to which he had frequently failed in the fcrvice of the company, he had entertained hopes of finding out a paffage through it into the Pacific Ocean, the obfervations which he was now
Vol. L f enabled
enabled to make, induced him to change his opinion ; and, on his return to England, he made an unfavourable report. Mr. Dobbs, the patron of the enterprize, did not acquiefce in this ; and, fortified in his original idea of the practicability of the paffage, by the teftimony of fome of Middleton's officers, he appealed to the Public, accufmg him of having mifreprefented facts, and of having, from intcrefted motives, in concert with the Hudfon's Bay Company, decided againft the practicability of the paffage, though the difcoveries of his own voyage had put it within his reach.
Hg had, between the latitude of 650 and 66°, found a very considerable inlet running Weflward, into which he entered with his mips; and, " after repeated trials of the tides, and <c endeavours to difcover the nature and courfe of the open-u ing, for three weeks fucceffively, he found the flood con-i( ftantly to come from the Eaftward, and that it was a large " river he had got into," to which he gave the name of Wager River *.
The accuracy, or rather the fidelity of this report was denied by Mr. Dobbs, who contended that this opening is a Strait^ and not a frefJj water river, and that Middleton, if he had examined it properly, would have found a paffage through it to the Weftern American Ocean. The failure of this voyage, therefore, only ferved to furnifh our zealous advocate for the difcovery, with new arguments for attempting it once more; and he had the good fortune, after getting the reward of twenty thoufand pounds eftablifhed by act of parliament, to prevail upon a fociety of gentlemen and merchants to fit out the Dobbs and California ;
* See the Abftiact of his Journal, publiflied by Mr. Dobbs.
which
which fhips, it was hoped, would be able to find their way into the Pacific Ocean, by the very opening which Middle-ton's voyage had pointed out, and which he was believed to have mifreprefented.
This renovation of hope only produced frefh difappoint-ment. For it is well known, that the voyage of the Dobbs and California, inftead of confuting, ftrongly confirmed all that Middleton had afferted. The fuppofed Strait was found to be nothing more than a frefh water river, and its utmoft "Weftern navigable boundaries were now afcertained, by accurate examination. But though Wager's Strait had thus difappointed our hopes, as had alfo done Rankin's Inlet, which was now found to be a ciofc Buy, and though other arguments, founded on the fuppofed courfe of the tides in Hudfon's Bay, appeared to be groundlefs; fuch is our attachment to an opinion once adopted, that, even after the unfuccefsful iffue of the voyage of the Dobbs and California, a pafTage through fome other place in that Bay was, by many, confidcred as attainable ; and, particularly, Chefter-field's (formerly called Bowdcn's) Inlet, lying between latitude 630 and 64*, fucceeded Wager's Strait, in the fanguine expectations of thofe who remained unconvinced by former difappointmcnts. Mr. Ellis, who was on board the fhips, and who wrote the hiftory of the voyage, holds up this as one of the places where the pafTage may be fought for, upon very rational grounds, and with very good effecls *. He alfo mentions Repulfe Bay, nearly in latitude 67°; but as to this he fpeaks lefs confidently ; only faying, that by an attempt there, we might probably approach nearer to the difcovery f. He had good reafon for thus guarding his expreflion; for
* Ellis's Voyage, p. 328.
f 2
f Ibid. p. 330.
the
the committee, who directed this voyage, admitting the impracticability of effecting a pafTage at Repulfe Bay, had refufed allowing the fhips to go into it, being fatisfed as to that place *.
Setting Repulfe Bay, therefore, afide, within which we have no reafon for believing that any inlet exifts, there remained no part of Hudfon's Bay to be fearched, but Cheflerfield's-Inlet, and a fmall track of coaft between the latitude 62°, and what is called the South Point of Main, which had been left unexplored by the Dobbs and California.
But this laft gleam of hope has now difappeared. The averfion of the Hudfon's Bay Company, to contribute any thing to the difcovery of a North Weft paffage, had been loudly reported by Mr. Dobbs ; and the Public feemed to believe that the charge was well founded. But flill, in juflice to them, it mufl be allowed, that, in 1720, they had fent MefTrs. Knight and Barlow, in a floop on this very difcovery ; but thefe unfortunate people were never more heard of. Mr. Scroggs, who failed in fearch of them, in 1722* only brought back proofs of their fhipwreck, but no frefh intelligence about a paffage, which he was alfo to look for. They alfo fent a floop, and a fliallop, to try for this difcovery, in 1737; but to no purpofe. If obftructions were thrown in the way of Captain Middleton, and of the Commanders of the Dobbs and California, the Governor and Committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, fince that time, we muft acknowledge, have made amends for the narrow
* Account of the Voyage, by the Clerk of the California, Vol. ii. p. 273, Mr. Dobbs himfelf fays, That he thought the paffage would be impracticable, or, at leaflJ %-ery difficult, in cafe there was one farther North than 670.
Account of Hudfon's Bay, p. 99.
prejudices
prejudices of their predecefTors; and we have it in our power to appeal to facts, which abundantly teftify, that every thing has been done by them, that could be required by the Public, toward perfecting the fearch for a North Weil paffage.
In the year 1761, Captain Chriftopher failed from Fort Churchill, in the floop Churchill j and his voyage was not quite fruitlefs; for he failed up Chefterfield's Inlet, through which a paffage had, by Mr. Ellis's account of it, been fo generally expected. But when the water turned brackifh, which marked that he was not in a ftrait, but in a river, he returned.
To leave no room for a variety of opinion, however, he was ordered to repeat the voyage the enfuing fummer, in the fame floop, and Mr. Norton, in a cutter, was appointed to attend him. By the favour of the Governor and Committee of the Company, the Journals of Captain Chriftopher, and of Mr. Norton, and Captain Chriftophcr's chart of the Inlet, have been readily communicated. From thefe authentic documents, it appears that the fearch and examination of Chefterftcld's Inlet was now completed. It was found to end in a frefh water lake, at the diftance of about one hundred and feventy miles from the fea. This lake was found alfo to be about twenty-one leagues long, and from five to ten broad, and to be completely clofed up on every fide, except to the Weft, where there was a little rivulet j to furvey the ftate of which, Mr. Norton and the crew of the cutter having landed, and marched up the country, faw that it foon terminated in three falls, one above another, and not water for a fmall boat over them j and ridges, moftly dry from fide to fide, for five or fix miles higher.
Thus
Thus ends Chefterfield's Inlet, and all Mr. Ellis's expectations of a paflage through it to the Weftern Ocean. The other part of the coaft, from latitude 620, to the South Point of Main, within which limits hopes were alfo entertained of finding a paffage, have, of late years, been thoroughly explored. "It is here that Piftol Bay is fituated; which the author who has writ laft in this country, on the probability of a North Weft paffage*, fpeaks of as the only remaining part of Hudfon's Bay where this Weftern communication may exift. But this has been alfo examined ; and, on the authority of Captain Chriftopher, we can affure the Reader, that there is no inlet of any confequence in all that part of the coaft. Nay, he has, in an open boat, failed round the bottom of what is called Piftol Bay, and, inftead of a pafTage to a Weftern Sea, found it does not run above three or four miles inland.
Befides thefe voyages by fea, which fatisfy us that we muft not look for a pafTage to the South of 6f of latitude; we are indebted to the Hudfon's Bay Company, for a journey by land, which has thrown much additional light on this matter, by affording what may be called demonftra-tion, how much farther North, at leaft in fome part of their voyage, £hips muft hold their courfe, before they can pafs from one fide of America' to the other. The Northern Indians, who come down to the Company's forts for trade, had brought to the knowledge of our people, the exiftence of a river ; which, from copper abounding near it, had got the name of the Copper-mine River*   We read much about
* Printed for Jeffreys, in 1768. His words are, « There remains then to be " fearched for the difcovery of a paflage^ the opening called Piftol Bay, in Hudfon's -*« Bay."   P. 122.
this
this river in Mr. Dobbs's publications, and he confiders the Indian accounts of it as favourable to his fyftem. The Company being defirous of examining the matter with precifion, ordered their Governor of Prince of Wales's Fort, to fend a proper perfon to travel by land, under the efcort of fome truffy Northern Indians, with orders to proceed to this famous river, to take an accurate furvey of its courfe, and to trace it to the fea, into which it empties itfelf. Mr. Hearne, a young gentleman in their fervice, who, having been an officer in the Navy, was well qualified to make obfervations for fixing the longitude and latitude, and make drawings of the country he fhould pafs through, and of the river which he was to examine, was appointed for this fervice.
Accordingly, he fet out from Fort Prince of Wales, on Churchill River, in latitude 580 50', on the 7th of December 1770; and the whole of his proceedings, from time to time, are faithfully preferved in his written Journal. The publication of this would not be an unacceptable prefent to the world, as it draws a plain artlefs picture of the favage modes of life, the fcanty means of fubfiftence, and indeed of the lingular wretchednefs, in every refpect, of the various tribes, who, without fixed habitations, pafs their mi-ferable lives, roving throughout the dreary deferts, and over the frozen lakes of the immenfe track of continent through which Mr. Hearne patted, and which he may be faid to have added to the geography of the globe. His general courfe was to the North Weft. In the month of June 1771 > being then at a place called Conge catha ivha Chaga, lie had, to ufe his own words, two good ob/ervationsi both by meridian and double altitudes, the mean of which determines this place to be in latitude 68° 46' North, and, by account, in longitude 24* 2' 2 Weft
xlviii
INTRODUCTION.
Weft of Churchill River. On the 13th of July (having left Conge cathavuha Chaga on the qd, and travelling flill to the Welt of North) he reached the Copper-mine River ; and was not a little furprized to find it differ fo much from the de-fcriptions given of it by the natives at the fort; for, inftead of being likely to be navigable for a fhip, it is, at this part, fcarcely navigable for an indian canoe ; three falls being in fight, at one view, and being choaked up with fhoals and ftony ridges.
Here Mr. Hearne began his furvey of the river. This he continued till he arrived at its mouth, near which his Northern Indians mafTacred twenty-one Efquimaux, whom
they furprized in their tents. We fhall give Mr. Hearne's account of his arrival at the fea, in his own words. " After «' the Indians had plundered the tents of the Efquimaux of " all the copper, &c. they were then again ready to ailift " me in making an end to the furvey; the fea then in fight " from the North Weft by Weft to the North Eaft, diftant " about eight miles. It was then about five in the morning of " the 17th, when I again proceeded to furvey the river to tl the mouth, flill found, in every refpect, no ways likely, " or a poflibility of being made navigable, being full of " fhoals and falls ; and, at the entrance, the river emptying " itfelf over a dry flat of the fhore. For the tide was then " out, and feemed, by the edges of the ice, to flow about " twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach a little " within the river's mouth. That being the cafe, the wa-" ter in the river had not the leaft brackifh tafte. But I am tc fure of its being the fea, or fome part thereof, by the *' quantity of whale-bone and feal fkins the Efquimaux had " at their tents; as alfo the number of feals which I faw *« upon the ice. The fea, at the river's mouth, was full 3 ? of
*c of iflands and fhoals, as far as I could fee, by the afift* ** ance of a pocket telefcope ; and the ice was not yet broken *f up, only thawed away about three quarters of a mile " from the fhore, and a little way round the iflands and " fhoals.
" By the time I had completed this furvey, it was about fi one in the morning of the 18th3 but in thefe high la-" titudes, and this time of the year, the fun is always a u good height above the horizon. It then came on a thick *' drizzling rain, with a thick fog; and, as finding the river " and fea, in every refpect, not likely to be of any'utility, " I did not think it worth while to wait for fair weather, to " determine the latitude exactly by an obfervation. But, by " the extraordinary care I took in obferving the courfes and u diffances, walked from Congecathawhachaaga, where I had " two good obfervations, the latitude may be depended on, " within twenty miles at fartheft."
From the map which Mr. Hearne conffriicted of the country through which he palled, in this fingular journey, and which we have been permitted to copy upon our general chart, it appears that the mouth of the copper-mine river lies in the latitude 72°, and above 25* Weft longitude from the fort, from whence he took his departure *.
The confequences refulting from this extenfive difcovery, are obvious. We now fee that the continent of North America ftrctches from Hudfon's Bay fo far to the North Weft,
* Mr. Hearne's journey, back from the copper-mine river, to Fort Prince of Wales, lafted till June 30, 1772. From his firft fetting out till his return, he had employed near a year and feven months. The unparalleled hardfhips he fuifered, and the eflcn-tial fervice he performed, met with a fuitable reward from his mafters, and he is now the Governor of Fort Prince of Wales, where he was taken prifoner by the French m j 782 j and laft fummer returned to his ftation,
Vol. I. g that
that Mr. Hearne had travelled near thirteen hundred miles before he arrived at the fea. His moft Weftern diftance from the coaft of Hudfon's Bay was near fix hundred miles *; and that his Indian guides were well apprized of a vaft tract of continent ftretching farther on in that direction, is certain from many circumftances mentioned in his journal; one of which, as befidcs cftablifhing this fact, it presents us with a very ftriking picture of lavage life, has been tranferibed in the following note f.
What
* The Hudfon's Bay company have a trading poft called Hudfoiis Houfc, above Five hundred miles up the country, in lat. 530 o' 32", and in long. 106° 27' 30".
f This day, Jan. 11, 1772, as the Indians were hunting, fome of them faw a ftrange fnow-fhoe track, which they followed, and at a considerable diftance came to a little hut, where they found a young woman fitting alone. They brought her to the tents j and, on examining her, found that flic was one of the Weftern Dog-ribbed Indians, and had been taken prifoner by the Jrat bap efcou.'lnd\:\ns in the fummer 1770 ; and when the Indians,who took her prifoner,were near this pan in the fummer rjji, fhe eloped from them, with an intent to return to her own country; but it being fo far off, and" after being taken prifoner, having come the whole way in canoes, with the winding of rivers and lakes, fhe had forgot the way; and had been in this little hut ever fince the firft fetting in of the fall. By her account of the moons pafr, fince her elopement, it appears to be the middle of laft July when flic left the Arathapefcow Indianr, and had not feen a human face ever fince. She fupported hcrfelf very well by fnarfng of rabbits, partridges, and fquirrcls, and was now in good health and flefh ; and,. I think, as fine a woman of a real Indian, as I have feen in any part of North America. She had nothing to make fnares of but the finews of rabbits legs and Feet, which fhe twifted together for that purpofe ; and of the rabbits fkins had made herfclf a neat and warm winter's clothing. The flock of materials fhe took with her when fhe c!oped, confifted of about five inches of an iron hoop for a knife; a ftone fteel, and other hard ftones as flints, together with other fire tackle, as tinder, Sec. ; about an inch and half of the fhank of the fhoeing of an arrow, of iron, of which flic madj an awl. She had not been long at the tents, when half a fcore of men wroflled to fee who fhould have her for their wife. She fays, when the Arathapefcow Indians took her prifoner, that they ftole on the tents in the night, when the inhabitants were all afleep, and killed every foul except herfclf and three other young women. Her father, mother, and hufband were in the fame tent with her, and they were all killed. Her child, of about five months old, fhe took with her, wrapped in a bundle of her cloth-mg, undifcovcrcd, in the night. But when arrived at the place where the Aratha-jpcilows had left their wives, which was not far oft, it being then day-break, thefe ^ Indian
introduction;
What is now, for the firft time, authentically laid before the Public, with regard to the difcoveries made by the Hudfon's Bay Company, was well known to the noble Lord who prefided at the board of Admiralty, when this voyage was undertaken; and the intimate connection of thofe difcoveries with the Plan of the Voyage, of courfe, regulated the inftruetiono given to Captain Cook.
And now, may we not take it upon us to appeal to every candid and capable inquirer, whether that part of the inflructions which directed the Captain not to lofe tune, in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, till he got into the latitude of 650, was not framed judicioufly; as there were fuch indubitable proofs that no pafTage exiffed fo far to the South as any part of Hudfon's Bay, and that, if a paffage could be effected at all, part of it, at leaft, muft be tra-verfed by the fhips as far to the Northward as the latitude 720, where Mr. Hearne arrived at the fea ?
\Yc may add as a farther confederation, in fupport of this article of the Inilruelions, that Bccring's Afiatic difcoveries, in 1728, having traced that continent to the latitude of 67°, Captain Cook's approach toward that latitude was to be wifhed for, that he might be enabled to bring back more
Indian women immediately began to examine her bundle; and having there found the child, took, it from her and killed it immediately. The relation of this mocking fcene only ferved the lavages of my gang for laughter. Her country is fo far to the JVefhvard, that (be fays file never faw any iron, or other kind of metal, till taken prifoner ; thofe of her tribe making their hatchets and chifels of deers horns, and knives of ftone and bone; their arrows are fhod with a kind of flate, bones, and deers horns; and their inflruments, to make their wood work, are nothing but beavers teeth. They have frequently heard of the ufeful materials the nations to the Eaft of them are fupplied with from the Enalifh ; but., inftead of drawing nGarcr to be in the way of trading for iron work, &c. arc obliged to retreat farther back, to avoid the Arathapefcow Indians, as they make iurprifmg daughter amongfl them every year, both winter and fummer. Hearne's MS. Journal.
er 2 authentic
Iii
INTRODUCTIO N.
authentic information than the world had hitherto obtained* about the relative fituation and vicinity of the two continents, which was abfolutely neceffary to be known, before the practicability of failing between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, in any Northern direction, could be afcertained.
After all, that fearch, in a lower latitude, which they who give credit (if any fuch there now be) to the pretended difcoveries of de Fonte, affect to wifh had been recommended to Captain Cook, has (if that will cure them of their credulity) been fatisfactorily made. The Spaniards, roufed from their lethargy by our voyages, and having caught a fpark of enterprize from our repeated vifits to the Pacific Ocean, have followed us more than once into the line of our difcoveries within the Southern tropic ; and have alfo fitted out expeditions to explore the American continent to the North of California. It is to be lamented, that there fhould be any reafons why the transactions of thofe Spanifh voyages have not been fully difclofed, with the fame liberal fpirit of information which other nations have adopted. But, fortunately, this excefTive caution of the court of Spain has been defeated, at leaft in one inftance, by the publication of an authentic Journal of their laft voyage of difcovery upon the coaft of America, in 1775, for which the world is indebted to the Honourable Mr. Daines Barrington. This publication, which conveys fome Information of real con* fequence to geography, and has therefore been referred to more than once in the following work, is particularly valuable in this refpect, that fome parts of the coaft which Captain Cook, in his progrefs Northward, was prevented, by unfavourable winds, from approaching, were feen and examined by the Spanifh fhips who preceded him; and *he perufal of the following extract from their Journal,
may
may be recommended to thofe (if any fuch there be) who would reprefent it as an imperfection in Captain Cook's voyage, that he had not an opportunity of examining the coaft of America, in the latitude affigned to the difcoveries of Admiral Fonte. «' We now attempted to find out the " ftraits of Admiral Fonte, though, as yet, we had not dif-u covered the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, through which he " is faid to have failed. With this intent, we fearched every " bay and recefs of the coaft, and failed round every head-u land, lying to in the night, that we might not lofe fight " of this entrance. After thefe pains taken, and being favoured " by a North Weft wind, it may be pronounced that no fuch f raits
%i are to be found
In this Journal, the Spaniards boaft of " having reached iv fo high a latitude as 58°, beyond what any other naviga-u tors had been able to effect in thofe feas t-" Without diminifhing the merit of their performance, we may be permitted to fay that it will appear very inconfiderable, indeed, in comparifon of what Captain Cook effected, in the voyage of which an account is given in thefe volumes. Bc-fides exploring the land in the South Indian Ocean, of which Kerguclen, in two voyages, had been able to obtain but a very imperfect knowledge ; adding alfo many considerable accefTions to the geography of the Friendly Iflands j and difcovering the noble group, now called Sandwich Iflands, in the Northern part of the Pacific Ocean, of which not the fainteft trace can be met with in the account of any former voyage ; befides thefe preliminary difcoveries, the Reader of the following work will find, that in
* Journal of a voyage in 1775 by Don Francifco Antonio Maurclle, in Mr. Bar-rington's Mifcellanies, p. 508.
f Ibid. p. 507. We learn from Maurelle's Journal that another voyage had been fome time before performed upon the coaft of America j but the utmoft Northern progrefs of it was to latitude 550,
one
one fummer, our Englim Navigator difcovered a much larger proportion of the North Weft coaft of America than the Spaniards, though fettled in the neighbourhood, had, in all their attempts, for above two hundred years, been able to do ; That he has put it beyond all doubt that Beering and Tfcherikoff had really difcovered the continent of America in 1741, and has alfo eftablifhcd the prolongation of that continent Weftward oppofne Kamtfchatka, which fpcculative writers, wedded to favourite fyftems, had ailecfed fo much to disbelieve *, and which, though admitted by Mullcr, had, ftnee he wrote, been confidered as difproved by later Ruffian difcoveries -|-; That, befides afcertaining the true pofnion of the Weftern coafts of America, with fome inconfidcrable interruptions, from latitude 440 up to beyond the latitude 70°, he has alfo afcertaincd the pofition of the North Eaftern extremity of Afia, by confirming Beering's difcoveries in 1728 and adding extcnfive acceflions of his own ; That he has given us more authentic information concerning the iflands lying between the two continents, than the Kamtfchatka traders, ever fince Beering firft taught them to venture on this fea, had been able to procure $ ; That, by fixing the relative
* Dr. Campbell, fpcaking of Beering's voyage in 1741, fays, " Nothing can be « plainer than this truth, that his difcovery does not warrant any fuch fuppofition, as " that the country he touched at was a great continent making part of North America."
f Sec Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 26, 27, &c. The fictions of fpeculative geographers in the Southern hemifphere, have been continents ; in the Northern hemi-fpherc, they have been feas. It may be obferved, therefore, that if Captain Cook in his firlt voyages annihilated imaginary Southern lands, he has made amends for the havock, in his third voyage, by annihilating imaginary Northern feas, and filling up the vaft fpace, which had been allotted to them, with the folid contents of his new difcoveries of American land farther Wert and North than had hitherto been traced.
J The Ruffians feem to owe much to England, in matters of this fort. It is fin-gular enough that one of our countrymen, Dr. Campbell  [See his edition of Harris's
voyages,
Tative fituation of Afia and America, and difcovcring the narrow bounds of the flrait that divides them, he has thrown a blaze of light upon this important part of the geography of the globe, and folved the puzzling problem about the peopling of America, by tribes deftitUM of the neccifary means to attempt long navigations ; and, la(lly,Thar, though the principal object of the voyage failed, the world will be greatly benefited even by the failure, as it has brought us to the knowledge of the exiftence of the impediments, which future navigators may expect to meet with in attempting to go to the Eaft Indies through Beering's ftrair.
The extended review wc have taken of the preceding
voyages, and the general outline we have fketched out, of the tranfactions of the laft, which are recorded at full length in thefe volumes, will not, it is hoped, be confidercd as a prolix, or unneceffary detail. It will ferve to give a-juft notion of the whole plan of difcovery executed by his Ma jelly's commands. And it appearing that much was aimed at, and much accomplifhed, in the unknown parts of the globe, in both hemifpheres, there needs no other confideration, to give full' fatisfaction to thofe who poflefs an enlarged way of thinking, that a variety of ufeful purpofes muft have been effected by thefe refearches. Ihic
voyages, Vol. ii. p. 1021.] lias prefer ved many valuable particulars of Beering's fhff voyage, of which Muller himfelf, the Hi dorian of their earlier difcoveries, makes no mention ; that it mould be another of our countrymen, Mr. Coxe, who firft publiflicd * fatisfadiory account of their later difcoveries.; and that the King of Great Britain's. Clips fhould travcrfc the globe in 1778, to confirm to the Ruffian empire, the pofiefliou of neat thirty degree?,, or above fix hundred miles of continent, which Mr. Kngel, in his zeal for the practicability of a North Eaft paffage, would prune away from the length/ of Afia to the Eaftward. See his Mcmolrcs Gcograpbiques, kc. Laufannc .1765 ; which,, however, contains much real information j and many parts of which are confirmed by Captain Cook's American difcoveries.
there
there are others, no doubt, who, too diffident of their own abilities, or too indolent to exert them, would wifh to have their reflections aflifted, by pointing out what thofe ufeful purpofes are. For the ufe of fuch, the following enumeration of particulars is entered upon. And if there fhould be .any, who affect to undervalue the plan, or the execution of our voyages, what fhall now be offered, if it do not convince them, may, at leafl, check the influence of their unfavourable decifion.
i. It may be fairly confidcred, as one great advantage accruing to the world from our late furveys of the globe, that they have confuted fanciful theories, too likely to give birth to impracticable undertakings.
After Captain Cook's perfevering and fruitlefs traverfes through every corner of the Southern hemifphere, who, for the future, will pay any attention to the ingenious reveries of Campbell, de Broffes,and de BufTon ? or hope toeftablifh an intercourse with fuch a continent as Maupertuis's fruitful imagination had pictured? A continent equal, at leafl, in extent, to all the civilized countries in the known Northern hemifphere, where new men, new animals, new productions of every kind, might be brought forward to our view, and difcoveries be made, which would open inexhaufliblc trea-furcs of commerce *. We can now boldly take it upon us to difcourage all expeditions, formed on fuch rcafonings of fpeculative philofophers, into a quarter of the globe,
* See Maupertuis's Letter to the King of Pruifia. The author of the Preliminary Difcourfc to Bougainville's Voyage aux Ifies Makubies, computes that the Southern continent (for the exiftence of which, he owns, we muft depend more on the conjectures of philofophers, than on the teftimony of voyagers) contains eight or ten >nillions of fquare leagues.
f where
where our perfevcring Englifh navigator, inftead of this promifed fairy land, found nothing but barren rocks, fcarcely affording fhelter to penguins and feals j and dreary feas, and mountains of ice, occupying the immenfe fpace allotted to imaginary paradifes, and the only treafures there to be difcovered, to reward the toil, and to compenfate the dangers of the unavailing fearch.
Or, if we carry our reflections into the Northern hemi-fpherC; could Mr. Dobbs have made a finglc convert, much lefs could he have been the fuccefsful folicitor of two different expeditions, and have met with encouragement from the le-giflature, with regard to his favourite paffage through Hudfon's Bay, if Captain Chriftopher had previoufly explored its coafts, and if Mr. Hearne had walked over the immenfe continent behind it I Whether, after Captain Cook's and Captain Gierke's difcoveries on the Weft fide of America, and their report of the ftate of Beering's Strait, there can be fuificient encouragement to make future attempts to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean in any Northern direction, is a queflion, for the decifion of which the Public will be indebted to this work.
2. But our voyages will benefit the world, not only by difcouraging future unprofitable fearches, but alfo by lef-fening the dangers and diftreffes formerly experienced in thofe feas, which are wnthin the line of commerce and navigation, now actually fubfifting. In how many inflances have the miftakes of former navigators, in fixing the true fituations of important places, been rectified ? What accef-fion to the variation chart? How many nautical obfervations have been collected, and are now ready to be confultcd, in directing a fliip's courfe, along rocky mores, chrough nar-
Vol, I. h row
lviii
INTRODUCTION.
row ftraits, amidft perplexing currents, and dangerous fhoals? But, above all, what numbers of new bays, and harbours, and anchoring-places, are now, for the firft time, brought forward, where Ihips may be fheltered, and their crews find tolerable refrefhraents ? To enumerate all thefe would be to tranfcribe great part of the journals of our feveral Commanders, whofe labours will endear them to every navigator, whom trade or war may carry into their tracks. Every nation that fends a fhip to fea, will partake of the benefit; but Great Britain herfelf, whofe commerce is boundlefs, muft take the lead in reaping the full advantage of her own difcoveries.
In confequence of all thefe various improvements, leflen-ing the apprehenfions of engaging in long voyages, may we not reafonably indulge the pleafing hope, that freffi branches of commerce may, even in our own time, be attempted, and fuccefsfully carried on ? Our hardy adventurers in the whale-fifhery, have already found their way, within thefe few years, into the South Atlantic; and who knows what frefh fources of commerce may flill be opened, if the profpect of gain can be added, to keep alive the fpirit of enterprize ? If the fituation of Great Britain be too remote, other trading nations will affuredly avail themfelves of our difcoveries. We may foon expect to hear that the Ruffians, now inftrucfed by us where to find the American continent, have extended their voyages from the Fox Iflands to Cook's River, and Prince William's Sound. And if Spain itfelf fhould not be tempted to trade from its moft Northern Mexican ports, by the frefh mine of wealth difcovered in the furs of King George's Sound, which they may tranfport in their Manilla fhips, as a favourite commodity for the
7 Chinefe
Chincfc market; that market may probably be fupplied by a direct trade to America, from Canton itfelf, with thofe valuable articles which the inhabitants of China have hitherto received, only by the tedious and expenfive circuit of Kamtfchatka and Kiachta.
Thefe and many other commercial improvements may reafonably be expected to refult from the Britiiti difcoveries, even in our own times. But if we look forward to future ages, and to future changes in the hiftory of commerce, by recollecting its various pad revolutions and migrations, we may be allowed to pleafe ourfelves with the idea of its finding its way, at laft, throughout the extent of the regions with which our voyages have opened an intercourse» and there will be abundant reafon to fubferibe to Captain Cook's obfervation with regard to New Zealand, which may be applied to other tracks of land explored by him, that ft although they be far remote from the prefent trading u world, we can, by no means, tell what ufe future ages " may make of the difcoveries made by the prefent In this point of view, furely, the utility of the late voyages muft ftand confeffed ; and we may be permitted to fay, that the hiftory of their operations, which will be completed in thefe volumes, has the jufteft pretentions to be called jct^x ic «Y*, as it will convey to lateft pofterity a treafure of intereft-ing information.
3. Admitting, however, that we may have expreffed too fanguine expectations of commercial advantages, either within our own reach, or gradually to be unfolded at fome future period, as the refult of our voyages of difcovery j we
* Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 92.
h 2
may
may flill be allowed to confider them as a laudable effort to add to the flock of human knowledge, with regard to an object which cannot but deferve the attention of enlightened man. To exert our faculties indevifing ingenious modes of fatisfying ourfelves about the magnitude and diftance of the fun j to extend our acquaintance with the fyftem to which that luminary is the common centre, by tracing the revolutions of a new planet, or the appearance of a new comet; to carry our bold refearches through all the immenfity of fpace, where world beyond world rifes to the view of the aftonifhed obferver; thefe are employments which none but thofe incapable of purfuing them can depreciate, and which every one capable of purfuing them muft delight in, as a dignified exercife of the powers of the human mind. But while we direct our ftudies to diftant worlds, -which, after all our exertions, we muft content ourfelves with having barely difcovered to exift, it would be a ftrange neglect, indeed, and would argue a moft culpable want of rational curiofity, if we did not ufe our beft endeavours to arrive at a full acquaintance with the contents of our own planet; of that little fpot in the immenfe univerfc, on which we have been placed, and the utmoft limits of which, at leaft its habitable parts, we poffefs the means of afcer-taining, and defcribing, by actual examination.
So naturally doth this reflection prefent itfelf, that to know fomething of the terraqueous globe, is a favourite object with every one who can tafte the lowed rudiments of learning. Let us not therefore think fo meanly of the times in which we live, as to fuppofe it poflible that full jaftice will not. be done to the noble plan of difcovery, fo fteadily and fo fucccfsfully carried on, fince the acceflion of his Majefty $■.
which.
which cannot fail to be confidered, in every fucceeding age, as a fplendid period in the hiftory of our country, and to add to our national glory, by diftinguifhing Great Britain as taking the lead in the moft arduous undertakings for the common benefit of the human race. Before thefe voyages took place, nearly half the furface of the globe we inhabit was hid in obfeurity and confufion. What is flill wanting to complete our geography, may juflly be termed the minutia of that fcicncc.
4. Let us now carry our thoughts fomewhat farther. It is fortunate for the interefts of knowledge, that acquifitions in any one branch, generally, and indeed unavoidably, lead to acquifitions- in other branches, perhaps of ftill greater confequeuce; and that we cannot even gratify mere curio-fity, without being rewarded with valuable inftruction. This obfervation applies to the fubjed before us. Voyages, in which new oceans have been traverfed, and in which new countries have been vifited, can fcaicely ever be performed, without bringing forward to our view frefh objects of fci-ence. Even when we are to take our report of what was difcovered, from the mere failor, whofe knowledge fcarcely goes beyond the narrow limits of his own profefHon, and whofe inquiries are not directed by philofophical difcern-ment, it will be unfortunate indeed, if fomething hath not been remarked, by which the fcholar may profit, and ufe* f ul acceflions be made to our old ftock of information. And if this be the cafe in general, how much more muft be gained by the particular voyages now under confederation ? Befides naval officers equally fkilled to examine the coafts they might approach, as to delineate them accurately upon 3 sheic
their charts, artifls* were engaged, who, by their drawings might illuftrate what could only be imperfectly defcribed; mathematicians")** who might treafure up an extenfive feries of fcientific obfervations ; and perfons verfed in the various departments of the hiftory of nature, who might collect, or record, all that they mould find new and valuable, throughout the wide extent of their refearches.   But while moft of thefe aflociates of our naval difcoverers, were liberally rewarded by the Public, there was one gentleman, who thinking it the nobleft reward he could receive, to have an opportunity of making the ample fortune he inherited from his anceftors, fubfervient to the improvement of fci-ence, Hepped forward of his own accord, and iubmitting to the hardlhips and dangers of a circumnavigation of the globe, accompanied Captain Cook in the Endeavour. The learned world, I may alfo fay the unlearned, will never forget the obligations which it owes to Sir Jofeph Banks.
What real acquisitions have been gained, by this munificent attention to feience, cannot be better expreffed than in the words of Mr. Wales, who engaged in one of thefe voyages himfelf, and contributed largely to the benefits derived from them.
V That branch of natural knowledge which may be « called nautical ajlronomy, was undoubtedly in its infancy,
* Meif Hedges and Webber, whofe drawings have ornamented and illuftrated this and Captain Cook's fecond voyage.
f Mr. Green, in the Endeavour; Meffrs. Wales and Bayly, in the Refolution and Adventure ; Mr. Bayly, a fecond time, jointly with Captains Cook and King in this voyage; and Mr. Lyons, who accompanied Lord Mulgrave. The obfervations of Meffrs. Wales and Bayly, during Captain Cook's fecond voyage, arc already in the hands of the Public, by the favour of the Board of Longitude ; and thofe of Captains Cook and King, and Mr. Bayly, during this laft, will appear immediately after our Publication.
4* when
<f when thefe voyages were firfl undertaken.  Both inftru-" ments and obfervers, which deferved the name, were very " rare ; and fo late as the year 1770, it was found neceffary, " in the appendix to Meyers Tables, publifhed by the Board " of Longitude, to ftate facts, in contradiction to the after-*« tidns of fo celebrated an aftronomer as the Abbe' de la w Caille, that the altitude of the fun at noon, the eafieft and 5C moft fimple of all obfervations, could not be taken with " certainty to a lefs quantity than five, fix, feven, or even " eight minutes *.   But thofe who will give themfelves the " trouble to look into the agronomical obfervations, made in " Captain Cook's laft voyage, will find, that there were few, 11 even of the petty officers, who could not obferve the " diftance of the moon from the fun, or a ftar, the moft de-u licate of all obfervations, with fufficient accuracy. It u may be added, that the method of making and computing '* obfervations for finding the variation of the compafs, is " better known, and more frequently practifed by thofe " who have been on thefe voyages, than by moft others. " Nor is there, perhaps, a perfon who ranks as an officer,
* The Abbe's words are, " Si ceux qui promettent une fi grande precifion dans « ccs fortes de methodes, avoicnt navigue quelque temps, ils auroient vu fouvent, que *« dans l'obfervation la plus fimple de toutes, qui eft celle de la hauteur du foleil a *« midi, deux obfervations, munis de bons quartlers de reflexion, bien reef ifies, dif-■» ferent entr'eux, lorfqu'ils obfervent chacun a part, de 5', 6', 7', & 8'."
Ephhner, 1755—1765.   IntroduSlion, p. 32.
It muft be, however, mentioned, in juftice to M. de la Caille, that he attempted to introduce the lunar method cf difcovcring the longitude, and propofed a plan of calculations of the moon's diftance from the fun and fixed ftars ; but through the imperfection of his inftrumcnts, his fuccefs was much lefs than that method was capable of affording. The bringing it into general ufe was referved for Dr. M.ifki lyne, our Aftronomer Royal. Sec the preface to the Tables for cameling the'Efteels of.Re-fraclion and Parallax, publifhed by the Board of Longitude, under the Direction of Dr. Shepherd, PJumian Profeflbr of Aftronomy and Experimental Philofophy at Cambridge, in 1772.
" and
" and has been concerned in them, who would not, what-" ever his real fkill may be, feel aibamed to have ir thought 6i that he did not know how to obferve for, and compute ** the time at fea; though, but a fhort while before thefe *' voyages were fet on foot, fuch a thing was fcarcely ever *« heard of amongfl: fcamen; and even firft-rate aftro-" nomers doubted the poflibility of doing it with fufficient u cxactnefs*.
" The number of places, at which the rife and times of " flowing of tides have been obferved, in thefe voyages, is " very great; and hence an important article of ufeful « knowledge is afforded. In thefe obfervations, fome very " curious and even unexpected circumftances have offered
* In addition to Mr. Wales's Remark, it maybe obferved, that the proficiency of our naval officers in taking obfervations at fea, muft ultimately be attributed to the great attention paid to this important object by the Board of Longitude at home; liberal rewards having been given to mathematicians for perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating calculations ; to artifts for conftructing more accurate inflruments for ob-ferving, and watches better adapted to keeping time at fea.    It appears, therefore, that the voyages of difcovery, and the operations of the board of longitude went hand in hand; and they muft be combined, in order to form a juft eftimatc of the extent of the plan carried into execution fince his Majefty's acccftion, for improving aftro-nomy and navigation.   But, befides the eftablifhment of the Board of Longitude on its prefent footing, which has had fuch important confequences, it muft alfo be ever acknowledged, that his prefent Majeuy has extended his royal patronage to every branch of the liberal arts and ufeful fcience.   The munificent prefent to the Royal Society for defraying theexpence of obferving the tranfit of Venus ;-the inftitution of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture; — the magnificent apartments allotted to the Royal and Antiquary Societies, and to the Royal Academy, at Somerfct Place;— the Support of the Garden of Exotics at Kcw, to improve which, Mr. Mafon was fent to the extremities of Africa ; —the fubjiantial encouragement afforded to learned men and learned works, in various departments ; and particularly, that afforded to Mr. Her-fchell, which has enabled him to devote himfelf intirely to the improvement of aftro-nomy; thefe, and many other inftances which might he enumerated, would have greatly diftinguiihed his Majefty's reign, even if he had not been the patron of thofe fuccefsful attempts to perfect geography and navigation by fo many voyages of difcovery.
" them-
" themfelves to our confideration. It will be fufficient to '* inftance the exceedingly fmall height to which the tide * rifes, in the middle of the great Pacific Ocean; where it " falls fhort, two-thirds at leaft, of what might have been ** expected from theory and calculation.
«' The direction and force of currents at fea, make alfo «* an important object. Thefe voyages will be found to <{ contain much ufeful information on this head; as well " relating to feas nearer home, and which, in eonfequencc, '* are navigated every day, as to thofe which are more re-" mote, but where, notwithstanding, the knowledge of thefe u things may be of great fervice to thofe who are deftined " to navigate them hereafter. To this head alfo we may refer " the great number of experiments which have been made " for inquiring into the depth of the fea, its temperature, *' and faltncfs at different depths, and in a variety of places " and climates.
" An extenfive foundation has alfo been laid for improve-w ments in magnetifm, for difcovering the caufe and nature K of the polarity of the needle, and a theory of its varia-** tions, by the number and variety of the obfervations and ** experiments which have been made, both on the variation " and dip, in almoft all parts of the world. Experiments alfo " have been made, in confequence of the late voyages, on
the effects of gravity, in different and very diftant places, *' which may ferve to increafe our flock of natural know-f ledge. From the fame fource of information we have ** learned, that the phenomenon, ufually called the aurora " borealls, is not peculiar to high Northern latitudes, but be-" longs, equally, to all cold climates, whether they be North " or South.
Vol. I. i « But,
" But, perhaps, no part of knowledge has been fo great " a gainer by the late voyages, as that of botany. We «l arc told* that, at leaff, twelve hundred new plants have " been added to the known fyftem; and that very con-" fiderable additions have been made to every other branch ,f of natural hiftory, by the great fkill and induftry of Sir « Jofeph Banks, and the other gentlemen f who have accom-*« panied Captain Cook for that purpofe."
To our naval 'officers in general, or to their learned affo-ciatcs in the expeditions, all the foregoing improvements of knowledge may be traced ; but there is one very lingular improvement indeed, flill behind, for which, as we are folely indebted to Captain Cook, let us ftate it in his own words: «' Whatever may be the public judgment about other mat-" ters, it is with real fa tis fact ion, and without claiming any " merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can con-44 elude this account with an obfervation, which facts en-" able me to make, that our having difcovered the poflibi-M lity of preserving health amongfl a numerous fhip's com-" pany, for fuch a length of time, in fuch varieties of cli-u mate, and amidft fuch continued hardfhips and fatigues, « will make this voyage remarkable, in the opinion of " every benevolent perfon, when the difputes about a South-" ern continent lhall have ceafed to engage the attention, « and to divide the judgment of philofophers J."
* See Dr. Shepherd's Preface, as above.
f Dr. Solander, Dr. Forfler and his fon, and Dr. Sparman. Dr. Forfler has given us a fpecimen of the botanical difcoveries of his voyage in the Charatleres Ge-nerum Plantarum, Sic. and much curious philofophical matter is contained in his "Obfervations made in a Voyage round the World. Dr. Sparman alfo, on his return to Sweden, favoured us with a publication, in which he expatiates on the advantages accruing to natural hiftory, to aftronomy, geography, general phyfics, and navigation, from our South Sea voyages.
% Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p, 29$,
5. But
5- But while our late voyages have opened fo many channels to an increafe of knowledge in the feveral articles already enumerated j while they have extended our acquaintance with the contents of the globe; while they have facilitated old tracks, and have opened new ones for commerce ; while they have been the means of improving the fkill of the navigator, and the fcience of the aftronomer; while they have procured to us fo valuable acceflions in the feveral departments of natural hiftory, and furnifhed fuch opportunities of teaching us how to preferve the healths and lives of fcamcn, let us not forget another very important object of fludy, for which they have afforded to the fpeculative philofopher ample materials : I mean the ftudy of human nature in various fituations, equally interefting as they are uncommon.
However remote or fecluded from frequent intercourfe with more polifhed nations, the inhabitants of any parts of the world be, if hiftory or our own observation fhould make it evident that they have been formerly vifited, and that foreign manners and opinions, and languages, have been blended with their own, little ufe can be made of what is obferved amongfl: fuch people, toward drawing a real picture of man in his natural uncultivated flate. This feems to be the fituation of the inhabitants of moft of the iflands that lie contiguous to the continent of Afia, and of whofe manners and inftitutions the Europeans, who occafionally vifit them, have frequently given us accounts. But the iflands which our enterprifing difcovcrers vifited in the centre of the South Pacific Ocean, and are, indeed, the principal fcenes of their operations, were untrodden ground. The inhabitants, as far as could be obferved, were unmixed with any different tribe, by occafional intercourfe, fubfequent to their
i 2 original
lxviii INTRODUCTION.
original fettlement there ; left intirely to their own powers for every art of life ; and to their own remote traditions for every political or religious cuftom or inflitution j uninformed by fcience ; unimproved by education ; in fhort, a fit foil from whence a careful obferver could collect facts for forming a judgment, how far unaffifted human nature will be apt to degenerate ; and in what refpects it can ever be able to excel. Who could have thought, that the brutal ferocity of feeding upon human flefh, and the horrid fuperftition of offering human facrifices, fhould be found to exift. amongfl the natives lately difcovered in the Pacific Ocean, who, in other refpects, appear to be no firangers to the fine feelings of humanity, to have arrived at a certain flage of focial life, and to be habituated to fubOrdination and government which tend fo naturally to reprefs the ebullitions of wild pafTion, and expand the latent powers of the underflanding ?
Or, if we turn from this melancholy picture, which will fuggefl copious matter for philofophical fpeculation, can wc, without aflonifhment, obferve to what a degree of perfection the fame tribe (and indeed we may here join, in fome of thofe inftances, the American tribes vifited in the courfe of the prefent voyage) have carried their favourite amufements, the plaintive fongs of their women, their dramatic entertainments, their dances, their Olympian games, as we may call them; the orations of their Chiefs j the chants of their priefls the folemnity of their religious pro-cefuons; their arts and manufactures; their ingenious contrivances to fnpply the want of proper materials, and of effective, tools and machines ; and the wonderful productions of their perfevering labour under a complication of difadvantages j their cloth and their mats ; their weapons; their fifh-
ing-inflruments; their ornaments; their utenGls; which in defign and in execution, may vie with whatever modern Europe, or claflical antiquity can exhibit ?
It is a favourite fludy with the fcholar to trace the remains of Grecian or Roman workmanfhip ; he turns over his Montfaucon with learned fatisfaction ; and he gazes with rapture on the noble collection of Sir William Hamilton. The amufemcnt is rational and inflructive. But will not his curiofity be more awakened, will he not find even more real matter for important reflection, by pairing an hour in furveying the numerous ipecimens of the ingenuity our newly difcovered friends brought from the utmoft receffes of the globe, to enrich the Britifh Mufeum, and the valuable repofitory of Sir Afhton Levei ? If the curiofities of Sir Afhton's Sandwich iv.. m alone, were the only acquifition gained by our vifits to the I acific Ocean, who that has tafle to admire, or even eyes to behold, could hefitate to pronounce, that Capram Cook had not failed in vain? The ex-pence of his three voyages did not, perhaps, far exceed that of digging out the buried contents of Herculaneum. And we may add, that the novelties of the Society or Sandwich iflands, feem better calculated to engage the attention of the ftudious in our times, than the antiquities, which exhibit proofs of Roman magnificence.
The grounds for making this remark cannot be better explained, than in the words of a very ingenious writer: " In an age (fays Mr. Warton *), advanced to the higheft w degree of refinement, that fpecies of curiofity com-** mences, which is bufied in contemplating the progrefs of *l facial life, in difplaying the gradation of fociety, and in
* Preface to his Hiftory of Englifh Poetry.
•j- " tracing
" tracing the gradations from barbarifvn to civility. That thefe " fpeculations mould become the favourite topics of fuch a " period is extremely natural. "We look back on the favage ** condition of our ancelfors with the triumph of fuperiority ; 4* and are plcafed to mark the fleps by which we have been " raifed from rudenefs to elegance j and our reflections on " this Subject are accompanied with a confeious pride* ** arillng, in a great meafure, from a tacit comparison of V the infinite disproportion between the feeble efforts of tc remote ages, and our prefent improvements in know-<c ledge. In the mean time, the manners, monuments, ,c cufloms, practices, and opinions of antiquity, by forming " fo flrong a contrail; with thofe of our own times, and " by exhibiting human nature and human inventions in " new lights, in unexpected appearances, and in various " forms, are objects which forcibly flrike a feeling imagi-«• nation. Nor docs this fpcctaclc afford nothing more than " a fruitlefs gratification to the fancy. It teaches us to fet ** a juft cftimation on our own acquifitions, and encourages " us to chcrifh that cultivation, which is fo clofcly connected " with the exiftence and the exercife of every focial virtue." We need not here obferve, that the manners, monuments, onflows, praclices, and opinions of the prefent inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, or of the Weft fide of North America, form the Jircngejl conUafl with thofe of our own time in enlightened Europe ; and that a feeling imagination will probably be more (truck with the narration of the ceremonies of a Natche at Tongataboo, than of a Gothic tournament at London ; with the contemplation of the coloilufcs of Eafter Ifland, than of the myfterious remains of Stonehenge.
Many Angularities, refpecting what may be called the natural hiftory of the human fpecies, in different climates,
will,
§
will, on the authority of our late navigators, open abundant fourccs for philofophical di feu (Hon. One queftion of this fort, in particular, which had formerly divided the opinions of the inquiiitive, as to the exiftence, if not of " giants on the earth," at leaft of a race (inhabiting a di-Uriel: bordering on the North fide of the ftrait of Magal-haens), whofe ftature confiderably exceeds that of the bulk of mankind, will no longer be doubted or difbelieved. And the ingenious objections of the Sceptical author of Rechercbes fur les Americains*, will weigh nothing in the balance again ft, the concurrent and accurate teftimony of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret.
Perhaps there cannot be a more interefting inquiry than to trace the migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled the globe; and in no refpetl have our late voyages been more fertile in curious difcoveries. It was known in general (and I fhall ufe the words of Kaempfer-f-), that the Afiatic nation called Malayans, *' in former times, a had by much the greatcft trade in the Indies, and fre-'* quented with their merchant fhips, not only all the coafts » of Afia, but ventured even over to the coafts of Africa, " particularly to the great ifland of Madagafcar J. The title
* Tom. i. p. 331.
•f Hiftory of Japan, Vol. i. p. 93.
I That the Malayans have not only frequented Madagafcar, but have alfo been the progenitors of fome of the prefent race of inhabitants there, is confirmed to us by the teftimony of Monfieur de Pages, who vifited that ifland fo late as 1774. " lis 44 m'ont paru provenir des diverfes Races ; leur couleur, leurs cheveux,et leur corps cc l'indiquent. Ceux que je n'ai pas cru originaires des anciens naturels du pays, font " petits et trapus; ils ont les cheveux prefque unis, et font olivdtres cotnme les Ma* « layes, avec qui ils ont, en general, une efpece de refemblance"
Voyages des M, des Pages, T. ii. p. 90*
" which
Ixxii
INTRODUCTION.
<c which the king of the Malayans afTumed to himfelf, of " Lord of the Winds and Seas to the Eaft and to the Weft, is an evi-*« dent proof of this ; but much more the Malayan language, ''which fpread mofl all over the Eaft, much after the fame *' manner as formerly the Latin, and of late the French, did " all over Europe."   Thus far, I fay, was known.   But that from Madagafcar to the Marquefcs and Eafter Iftand, that is, nearly from the Eaft fide of Africa, till we approach toward the Weft fide of America, a fpace including above half the circumference of the globe, the fame tribe or nation, the Phoenicians, as we may call them, of the Oriental world, fhould have made their fettlements, and founded colonics throughout almoft every intermediate ftage of this immenfe tract, in iflands at amazing diftances from the mother continent, and ignorant of each others exiftence ; this is an hiftorical fact, which could be but very imperfectly known before Captain Cook's two firft voyages difcovered fo many new inhabited fpots of land lurking in the bofom of the South Pacific Ocean; and it is a fact which does not reft folely on fimilarity of cuftoms and inftitutions, but has been eftablifhed by the moft fatisfaetory of all proofs, that drawn from affinity of language.   Mr. Marfden, who fecms to have confidered this curious fubject with much attention, fays, that the links of the latitudinal chain remain yet to be traced**   The difcovery of the Sandwich Iflands
in
* Archseolog. Vol. vi. p. 155. See alfo his Hiftory of Sumatra, p. j66. from which the following paffage is tranferibed. " Befides the Malaye, there are a va-*' ricty* of languages fpoken on Sumatra, which, however, have not only a manifeft: " affinity among themfclves, but alfo to that general language which is found to " prevail in, and to be indigenous to, all the iflands df the Eaftern feas.; from Ma-«» dagafcar to the remoteft of Captain Cook's difcoveries, comprehending a wider " extent than the Roman or any other tongue has yet boafted. In different places, << it has been more or lefs mixed and corrupted -y but between the moft diflimilar
" branches,
INTRODUCTION,
lxxiii
in this lad voyage, has added fome links to the chain. But Captain Cook had not an opportunity of carrying his refearches into the more Wefterly parts of the North Pacific. The Reader, therefore, of the following work will not, perhaps, think that the Editor was idly employed when he fubjoined fome notes, which contain abundant proof that the inhabitants of the Ladrones, or Marianne iflands, and thofe of the Carolines, arc to be traced to the fame common fourcc, with thofe of the iflands vifited by our fhips. With the like view, of exhibiting a funking picture of the amazing extent of this Oriental language, which marks, if not a common original, at lead an intimate intercourfe between the inhabitants of places fo very remote from each other, he has inferted a comparative table of their numerals, upon a more enlarged plan than any that has hitherto been executed*.
Our Britifh difcoverers have not only thrown a blaze of light on the migrations of the tribe which has fo wonderfully fpread itfelf throughout the iflands in the Eaftern Ocean ; but they have alfo favoured us with much curious information concerning another of the families of the earth, whofe lot has fallen invlefs hofpitable climates. We fpeak of the Efquimaux, hitherto only found feated on the coaffs of Labradore and Hudfon's Bay, and who differ in feveral
«* branches, an eminent famenefs of many radical words is apparent; and in fome *' very diftant from each other, in point of fituation: As, for infiance, the Philip-" pines and Madagafcar, the deviation of the words is fcarcely more than is obferved 44 in the dialects of neighbouring provinces of the fame kingdom."
* We are indebted to Sir Jofeph Banks, for a general out-linc of this, in Hawkef-vvorth's Collection, Vol. iii. p. 777. The Reader will find our enlarged Table at the end of the third volume, Appendix, No. 2.
Vol. I. k charac-
Ixxiv
INTRODUCTION.
characlepiftic marks from the inland inhabitants of North America. That the Greenlanders and they agree in every circumftance of cuftoms, and manners, and language, which are demonftrations of an original identity of nation, had been difcovered about twenty years ago*. Mr. Hearne, in 1772, traced this unhappy race farther back, toward that part of the globe from whence they had originally coafted along in their fkin boats, having met with fome of them at the mouth of the Coppermine River, in the latitude of 720, and near five hundred leagues farther Weft than Pickerf-gill's moft Wefterly ftation in Davis's Strait. Their being the fame tribe who now actually inhabit the iflands and coafts on the Weft fide of North America, oppofite Kamtfchatka, was a difcovery, the completion of which was refcrved for Captain Cook. The Reader of the following work will find them at Norton Sound; and at Oonalafhka, and Prince William's Sound; that is, near 1500 leagues diftant from their nations in Greenland, and on the Labra-dore coaft. And left fimilitude of manners fhould be thought to deceive us, a table exhibiting proofs of affinity of language, which was drawn up by Captain Cook, and is infertcd in this work f, will remove every doubt from the mind of the moft Scrupulous inquirer after truth.
There are other doubts of a more important kind, which, it may be hoped, will now no longer perplex the ignorant,
* Sec Crank's Hiftory of Greenland, Vol. i. p. 262 \ where we are told that the Moravian Brethren, who, with the confent and furtherance of Sir Hugh PalhTer, then Governor of Newfoundland, vifited the Efquimaux on the Labradore coaft, found that their language, and that of the Greenlanders, do not differ fo much as that of the High and Low Dutch.
J See Appendix, No. 6. The Grcen'anders, as Crantz tells us, call thcmfclves Karallt \ word not very unlike Kanagyjl, the name, aflumed by the inhabitants of Kodiack, one of the Schumagin iflands, as Suehlin informs us.
or
or furnifli matter of cavil to the ill-intentioned. After the great difcovery, or at leaft the full confirmation of the great difcovery, of the vicinity of the two continents of Afia and America,' we trud that we fhall not be any more ridiculed, for believing that the former could eafily furnifli its inhabitants to the latter. And thus, to all the various good purpofes already enumerated, as anfwered by our late voyages, we may add this laff, though not the lead important, that they have done fervice to religion, by robbing infidelity of a favourite objection to the credibility of the Mofaic account of the peopling of the earth .
6. Hitherto we have confidcred our voyages as having benefited the dfcovcrcrs. But it will be afked, Have they conveyed, or are they likely ever to convey, any benefit to the difcovered? It would afford exquifite fatisfaction to every benevolent mind, to be indructed in facts, which might enable us, without hefitation, to anfwer this quedion in the affirmative. And yet, perhaps, we may indulge the pleaf-ing hope, that, even in this refpect, our fhips have not failed in vain. Other difcoveries of new countries have, in effect, been wars, or rather maflacres j nations have been no fooner found out, than they have been extirpated; and the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru
* A contempt of Revelation is generally the refult of ignorance, conceited of its poflefling fuperior knowledge. Obferve how the Author of Rccberches Philcfo-phiquii fur les American:^ expreTtes himfelf on this very point. " Ccttc diftance que " Mr. Antermony veut trouvcr ft peu importante, eft a-peu-pres de huh cent lieufy " Gauloifes au travers d'un ocean perUleux*, et impoflible a franchir avec des canotsj ** auffi chetifs ct auffi fragilcs que 1c font, au rapport d'Ylbrand Ides, les chaldupss " des Tungufcs," &c. &c. T. i. p. 156. Had this writer known that the two continents are not ribovc thirteen leagues (inftend of eight hundred) diftant from each other, and that, even in that narrow fpace of fra, there *re intervening ifland, he would not have ventured to urge this argument in opposition to Mr. Bell's notion of the quarter from which North America received its original inhabitants.
k 2 can
can never be remembered, without blufhing for religion and human nature. But when the receffes of the globe are investigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to promote general knowledge; when we vifit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as friends; and wifh only to learn that they exift, in order to bring them within the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect ftate of fociety, by communicating to them our fuperior attainments; voyages of difcovery planned with fuch benevolent views by George the Third, and executed by Cook, have not, we truft, totally failed in this refpect. Our repeated vifits, and long continued intercourfe with the natives of the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Iflands, cannot but have darted fome rays of light on the infant minds of thofe poor people. The uncommon objects they have thus had opportunities of obferving and admiring, will naturally tend to enlarge their flock of ideas, and to furnifh new materials for the exercife of their reafon. Comparing themfelves with their vifiters, they cannot but be ftruck with the deepefl conviction of their own inferiority, and be impelled, by the ftrongeft motives, to ftrive to emerge from it, and to rife nearer to a level with thofe children of the Sun who deigned to look upon them, and left behind fo many fpeci-mens of their generous and humane attention. The very introduction of our ufeful animals and vegetables, by adding frefh means of fubfiftence, will have added to their comforts of life, and immediate enjoyments; and if this be the only benefit they are ever to receive, who will pronounce that much has not been gained ? But may we not carry our wifhes and our hopes ftill farther ? Great Britain itfelf, when firft vifited by the Phoenicians, was inhabited by painted Savages, not, perhaps, bleffed with higher attainments
INTRODUCTION.
lxxvii
merits than are poffeffed by the prefent natives of New Zealand ; certainly lefs civilized than thofe of Tongataboo or Otaheite. Our having opened an intercourfe with them, is the firft ftep toward their improvement. Who knows, but that our late voyages may be the means appointed by Providence, of fpreading, in due time, the bleftings of civilization, amongfl: the numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean; of abolifhing their horrid repafts and their horrid rites; and of laying the foundation for future and more effectual plans, to prepare them for holding an honourable ftation amongft the nations of the earth ? This, at leaft, is certain, that our having, as it were, brought them into exiftence by our extenfive refearches, will fuggeft to us frefh motives of devout gratitude to the Supreme Being, for having bleffed us with advantages hitherto withheld from fo great a proportion of the human race; and will operate powerfully to incite us to perfevere in every feafible attempt, to be his inftruments in refcuing millions of fellow-creatures from their prefent ftate of humiliation.
The feveral topics, which occurred, as fuitable to this general Introduction, being now difcuffed, nothing remains but to ftate a few particulars, about which the reader of thefe volumes has a right to expect fome information.
Captain Cook, knowing, before he failed upon this laft: expedition, that it was expected from him to relate, as well as to execute, its operations, had taken care to prepare fuch a journal as might be made ufe of for publication. This journal, which cxifts in his own hand-writing, has been faithfully adhered to. It is not a bare extract from his logbooks, but contains many remarks which, it appears, had not been inferted by him in the nautical rcgifter; and it is
7 alfo
Ixxvih* introduction;
alfo enriched with confiderable communications from Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon of the Refolution. The confeiTed'abilities, and great afliduity, of Mr. Anderfon, in obferving every thing that related cither to natural hiflory, or to manners and language ; and the defire which, it is well known, Captain Cook, on all occafions, fhewed to have the affiflance of that gentleman, {lamped a great value on his collections. That nothing, therefore, might be wanting to convey to the Public the befi poflible account of the tranfactions of the Voyage, his journal, by the order of Lord Sandwich, was alfo put into the hands of the Editor, who was authorized and directed to avail himfelf of the information it might be found to contain, about matters imperfectly touched, or altogether omitted, in Captain Cook's manufcripr. This tafk has been executed in fuch a manner, that the reader will fcarcely ever be at a lofs to diftinguifh in what inllanocs rccourfe has been had to Mr. Anderfon. To preclude, if poflible, any miflake, the copy of the firfl and fecond volumes, before it went to the printer, was fub-mitted to Captain King; and after it had been read over and corrected by one fo well qualified to point out any inaccuracies, the Earl of Sandwich had the goodnefs to give it a peruial. As to the third volume, nothing more need he faid, than that it was completely prepared for the prefs by Captain King himfelf. All that the Editor of the work has to anfwer for, are the rotes occafionally introduced in the .courfe of the two volumes, contributed by Captain Cook ; and this introduction, which was intended as a kind of epilogue to our Voyages of difcovery. He muff be permitted, however, to fay, that he confiders himfelf as in-titled to no inconiiderable mare of c.-idid indulgence from the Public ; having engaged in a very tedious and trouble-
i fome
fome undertaking upon the mod difinterejled motives; his only reward being the fatisfaction he feels, in having been able to do an eiTential fervice to the family of our great navigator, who had honoured him, in the journal of this voyage, with the appellation of Friend.
They who have repeatedly afked why this publication has been fo long delayed, need only look at the volumes, and their attendant illudrations and ornaments, to be fatisiied that it might, with at leaft equal reafon, be wondered at, that it has not been delayed longer. The Journal of Captain Cook, from the firft moment that it came into the hands of the Editor, had been ready for the Prefs ; and Captain King had left with him his part of the narrative, fo long ago as his departure for the Wed Indies, when he commanded the Refiftance man of war. But much, befides, remained to^be done. The charts, particularly the general one, were to be prepared by Mr, Roberts, who gives an account of his work in the note * ; the very numerous and elegant drawings of
Mr.
* Soon after our departure from England, I was 'inflruclcd by Captain Cook to complete a map of the world as a general chart, from the bed materials he was in pofleffion of for that purpofe ; and before his death this bufinefs was in a great mea-fure accomplifhcd : That is, the grand outline of the whole was arranged, leaving only thofe parts vacant or unfinifhed, which he expected to fall in with and explore. But on our return home, when the fruits of our voyage were ordered by the Lords Commiffioners of the Admiralty to be publifhed, the care of the general chart being configncd to me, I was directed to prepare it from the latefr and befr authorities ; and alfo to introduce Captain Cook's three fucceffive tracks, that all his difcoveries, and the different routes he had taken might appear together j by this means to give a general idea of the whole. This tafk having been performed by me, it is neceffary, for the information of the Reader, to ifate the heads of the feveral authorities which I have followed in fuch parts of the chart as differ from what was drawn up immediately under the infpeclion of Captain Cook: And when the Public are made acquainted, that many materials, neceffary to complete and elucidate the work, were not, at the time, on board the Refolution, or in- his- policfhon, the reafon wili 'appear
Ixxx
INTRODUCTION.
Mr. Webber were to be reduced by him to the proper fize ; artifts were next to be found out who would undertake to
engrave
pear very obvious, Why thefe alterations and additions were introduced contrary to the original drawing.
Firfl then, I have followed cloudy the very excellent and correct charts of the Northern Atlantic Ocean, publifhed by Meflrs. de Verdun de la Crenne, de Borda, et Ptingrc in 1775 and 1776 \ which comprife the coaft of Norway from the Sud Hock, in the latitude of 62 degrees North, to Trelleburg, Denmark, the coaft of Holland, North coaft of Great Britain, Orkneys, Shetland, Ferro Ifles, Iceland, co.ifls of France, Spain, and Portugal, to Cape St. Maria on the coaft of Africa ; including the Azores, Canaries, Cape de Verd, Antilles, and Weft India iflands from Barbadoes to the Eaft end of Cuba j the North part of Newfoundland and the Labradorc coaft, as far as the latitude of 570 degrees North.
Ireland, and part of the coaft of Scotland, is laid down from Mr. Mackenzie's late furvcys; and the Couth coaft of England from a chart publifhed by Mr. Faden in J780, taken from Mr. l'Abbe Dicquemare.
The North part of the coaft of Labradorc, from the latitude of 570 North, to Button's Iflands in the entrance of Hudfon's Strait, is taken from Monfieur Bellin's chart, as is alfo the North coaft of Norway and Lapland, including the White Sea, Gulf of Bothnia, Baltic Sea, and the Eaft coaft of Greenland.
The Gulf of Finland, from a large (MS) chart, now engraving for the ufe of fome private merchants.
The Weft India iflands, from the Eaft end of Cuba to the Weft end, including Jamaica and the Bahama iflands, are from a chart publifhed in London by Sayer and Bennett, in 1779.
The South fide of Cuba from Point Gorda to Cape de Cruz, is laid down from Monfieur Bellin, in 1762.
The coafts of Newfoundland, and the Gulf of St. Laurence, from the furveys made by Captain Cook, and Meffrs. Gilbert and Lane.
Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Ifland of St. John, River St, Laurence, Canada, and New England to the River Delaware, from J. F. W. des Barrcs, Efq; in 1777 and 1778 ; and charts publifhed in France by order of the King, in 1780, intituled, Neptune Americo-Septrentrional, &c. And from thefe charts alfo are taken the coafts of Penfylvania, New Jerfey, Maryland, Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Eaft and Weft Florida, as well as the interior parts of the country to the Eaft fide of Lake Ontario.
The other parts of this lake, as likewife Lakes Eria, Hurons, Michigan, and Superior, were copied from Mr. Green's maps of America : The Northern part of this laft mentioned lake is fixed from the aftronomical obfervations made by order of the Hudfon's Bay Company, at Mifhippicotton Houfc,
The
engrave them ; the prior engagements of thofe artifts were to be fulfilled before they could begin j the labour and fkill
to
The whole of Hudfon's Bay I took from a chart, compiled by Mr. Marley, from all the moft authentic maps he could procure of thofe parts with which I was favoured by Samuel Wegg, Efq; F. R. S. and Governor of that Company, who alfo politely furnifhed me with Mr. Hearne's Journals, and the map of his route to the Coppermine River, which is faithfully infer ted on the chart, together with the furvey of Chefterfield Inlet made by Captain Chriftopher and Mr. Mofcs Norton, in 1762; and the difcoveries from York Fort to Cumberland, and Hudfon Houfes (this laft is the moft Weftern fettlement belonging to the Company), extending to Lake Winipeg, from the drafts of Mr. Philip Turnor, made in 1778 and 1779, corrected by aftronomical obfervations. And from this lake, the difpofition of the other lakes to the Southward of it, and which communicate with it, is formed, and laid down from a map coiiftruftcd by Mr. Spurrel, in the Company's fervice. The Albany and Moofe rivers to Glouccfter Houfe, and to Lake Abbitibbe and Superior, are alfo drawn from a map of Mr. Tumor's, adjuftcd by obfervations for the longitudes,
The Weft coaft of Greenland, as chiefly laid down from the obfervations made by Lieut. R. Pickerfgill in the Lion brig in 1776, which determine the line of the coaft only, as the immenfe quantities of ice choak up every bay and inlet on this coaft, which formerly were, in the fummer feafon, quite free and open.
From the mouth of the Miftifippi River, including its fource, and the other river? branching from it; all the coaft of New Leon to Cape Rozo, and the Weftern coafl of America, from Cape Corricnties to the Great Bay of Tecoantepee, is taken from Monfieur D'Anville.
The Gulf of California I have laid down from a German publication in 177.3" put into my hands by Sir Jofeph Banks, Bart. P. R. S. ; and the Weftern fide of it is brought together from a Spanifh MS. chart with which A. Dalrymple, Efq; F. R. S. obliged me.
The coaft of Brazil from Sera to Cape Frio, is copied from a fmall chart of that part by Mr. Dalrymple,
For the Southern part of Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope to Point Natal, I have taken the authority of the chart of Major J. Rcnnels, F. R. S. fhewing the extent of the bank of Lagullus.
F*or the exiftence of the fmall iflands, fhoals, and banks to the Eaftward of Madagafcar, together with the Archipelago of the Maldive and Laccidive Iflands ; for the coafts of Mallacca, part of Cambodia, and the Ifland Sumatra, I have ufeJ the latin authority' of Monfieur D'Apres de Manncvillette's publications in the Neptune Oriental.
The coafts of Guzerat, Malabar, Coromandel, and the oppofite fhore, containing the Great Bay of Bengal, and the Ifland of Ceylon, and exhibiting the Heads of Vol. I. I the
lxxxii
INTRODUCTION.
to be exerted in finifhing many of them, rendered this a tedious operation; paper fit for printing them upon was to be procured from abroad ; and after all thefe various and unavoidable difficulties were furmounted, much time was neceflarily required for executing a numerous impreffion of the long lift of plates, with fo much care as might do juflice both to Mr. Webber, and to his feveral engravers. When all thefe circumftances are taken into confideration, we trufl; that we fhall hear no more of the delay ; and only be grate-
the Ganges, and Barampootcr or Sanpoo Rivers, are inferred from the work of the ingenious Author of the map of Hindooftan, publifhed in 1782.
The China fea is laid down from the chart publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple ; but the longitudes of Pula Sapata, Pulo Condore, Pulo Timoan, Straits of Banca and Sunda, and the parts we faw are as fettled by us,, together with the Eaft coaft of Niphon, the principal of the Japenefe Iflands.
The Jefo and Kurile iflands, the Eaft coaft of Afia and Kamtfchatka, as well as the fea of Okotfk, and the iflands lying between Kamtfchatka and America that were not feen in the voyage, are taken from a Ruffian MS. chart, got by us at the Ifland of Oonahfhka.
The Northern countries from Cape Kanin, near the White Sea, as far Eaft as 1 the River Lena, I have given from the Great Rufllan Map, publifhed at Peterfburg; in 1776, including the Euxine, Cafpian, and Aral Seas, as alfo the principal lakes to the Eaftward ; the intent of which is to fhew the fource of the large rivers that empty themftlves into the different oceans and feas.
Every other part of the chart not mentioned in this account, is as originally placed by Captain Cook.
The whole has been corre&ed from the latcft aftronomical obfervations, felected from the Tables compiled by Mr. William Waks, F. R. S. and mathematical mafter of Chrift's Hofpital, for the Nautical Almanacs : From thofe in the Mariner's Guide by the Rev. Dr. Mafkclync, F. R. S. and Aftronomer Royal, publifhed in 1763; From the Connoiflance des Temps for 1780 and 1781 ; From ProfeiTor Mayer's Geographical Table; From the Voyages of Meffrs, d'Eveux de Fleurieu, Verdun, de Borda, and Chabet, tkc. ; From the Table lately publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple for the ufe of the Eaft India fhips j From the PhiJofophical Tranfactions of the Royal Society; and from the Obfervations of our late Navigators.
HEN*. ROBERTS.
Shoreham, Svsskx, May 18, 178.1,
ful
INTRODUCTION. Ixxxiii
ful to that munificent Patron of Science, who not only directed the hiftory of the voyage to be publifhed ; but to be publifhed with fuch a fplendid train of ornaments, at the public expence, as will flill add to the merit of having ordered the voyage itfelf to be undertaken.
And here it feems to be incumbent upon us to add, as another inftance of munificent attention, that care has been taken to mark, in the moft fignificant manner, the juft fenfe entertained of the humane and liberal relief afforded to our fhips in Kamtfchatka. Colonel Behm, the commandant of that province, has not been rewarded merely by the pleafure which a benevolent mind feels in reflecting upon the bleff-ings it confers; but has been thanked in a manner equally confident with the dignity of his own fovereign and of ours, to whofe fubjects he extended protection. A magnificent piece of plate was prefented to him, with an infcriptionj worthy of a place in the fame book where the hiftory of his humanity to our countrymen is recorded, and which, while it does honour to our national gratitude, deferves alfo to be preferved as a monument of our national tafte for elegant compofnion.   It is as follows:
Vl r o eg r eg io magno d e B e h m ; qiliy Impcratricis AuglljliJfwKS Catherine aufpiciis, fummdque animi benignitate^fxva, quibus pr&crat, Kamtfchathe lit tor a, navibus nautifque Britannicis, ho/pita przlmit; t'ofquc, in tenninis, ft qui ejfent hnperio RnJJico, frujlra explorandis, mala mult a perpejjbs, iteratd vice excepit, refecit, recreavit, ct commcatu omni cumulate auclos dimifit\ Rei naval is Britannic a: Sep-te.mviri in aliquam bcnevolenti<e tarn infignis memoriam^ amicijJimo\ gratijjinioquc animo, fuo, patr'ueque nomine, D. D. D.
MDCCLXXXh
Thia
lxxxiv INTRODUCTIO N.
This public teftimony of gratitude, reminds the Editor, that there are fimilar calls upon himfelf. He owes much to Captain King for his advice and direction, in a variety of inftances, where Captain Cook's Journal required explanation j for filling up feveral blanks with the proper longitude and latitude; and for fupplying deficiencies in the tables of aftronomical obfervations.
Lieutenant Roberts was alfo frequently confultcd, and was always found to be a ready and effectual afliftant, when any nautical difficulties were to be cleared up.
But particular obligations are due to Mr. Wales, who, be-fides the valuable communications which have been adopted in this Introduction, feconded moft liberally the Editor's views of ferving Mrs. Cook, by cheerfully taking upon himfelf the whole trouble of digefting, from the log books, the tables of the route of the fhips, which add fp greatly to the , intrinfic merit of this publication.
Mr. Wegg, befides fharing in the thanks fo juftly due to the committee of the Hudfon's Bay Company, for their unreferved communications, was particularly obliging to the Editor, by giving him repeated opportunities of con-vcrfing with Governor Hearne, and Captain Chriftopher.
The Honourable Mr. Daines Barrington had the goodnefs to intercft himfelf, with his ufual zeal for every work of public utility, in procuring fome ncccflary information, and fuggefting fome valuable hints which were adopted.
It would be great injuftice not to cxprefs our acknowledgments to Mr. Pennant, who, befides enriching the third volume with references to his ArBlc Zoology, the publication of which will be an important acceflion to Natural Hiftory,
alfo
alfo communicated fome very authentic and fatisfactory manufcript accounts of the Ruffian difcoveries.
The vocabularies of the Friendly andSandwich Iflands, and of the natives of Nootka, had been furnifhed to Captain Cook, by his mofl ufeful aflbciate in the voyage, Mr. Anderfon ; and a fourth, in which the language of the Efquimaux is compared with that of the Americans on the op-pofitc fule of the continent, had been prepared by the Captain himfelf. But the comparative Table of Numerals, which is marked No. 2. in the Appendix, was very obligingly drawn up, at the requeff of the Editor, by Mr. Bryant, who, in his fludy, has followed Captain Cook, and, indeed, every traveller and hiflorian, of every age, into every part of the globe. The Public will confider this Table as a very finking illuftration of the wonderful migrations of a nation, about whom fo much additional information has been gained by our voyages, and be ready to acknowledge it as a very ufeful communication.
One more communication remains to be not only acknowledged, but to be inferted at the clofe of this Introduction. The teftimonies of learned contemporaries, in commendation of a deceafed Author, arc frequently difplayed in the front of his book. It is with the greater! propriety? therefore, that we prefix to this poftluimous work of Captain Cook the teftimony of'one of his own profeflion, not more diflinguiihed by the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. As he wifhes to remain con-cealed, perhaps this allufion, for which we intreat his indulgence, may have given too exact direction to the eyes of the Public where to look for fuch a character. Let us, however, reft fatisfied with the intrinfk merit of a composition,
conveyed
lxxxvi
INTRODUCTION.
conveyed under the injunction of fecrecy; and conclude our long preliminary differtation with expremng a wifh, or rather a well-grounded hope, that this volume may not be the only place where pofterity can meet with a monumental infeription, commemorative of a man, in recounting and applauding whofe fervices, the whole of enlightened Europe will equally concur with Great Britain.
T o
[   Ixxxvit ]
to   the   memory of
Captain   JAMES   COO K,
The ableft and moft renowned Navigator this, or any country hath produced.
raifed himfelf, folely by his merit, from a very obfeure birth, to the rank of Pqfl Captain in the royal navy, and ivas, unfortunately, killed by the Savages of the ifland Owhyhee, on the' i^th of February 1779 ; which if and he had, not long before, difcovered, when profe-cuthig his third voyage round the globe.
He pofpffed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications rcquifte for his profejfton and great undertakings; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the btfl men.
Cool and deliberate in judging : fugacious in determining : aclive in executing : fleady and perfevering in enterprifng from vigilance and unremitting caution: unfubdued by labour, difficulties, and difappoinU ments : fertile in expedients : never wanthig prefence of mind: always poffeffuig himfelf, and the full ufe of a found under/landing.
Mild, jiift, but exacl in difcipline: he was a father to his people, who were attached to him from affecl'iony and obedient from confidence.
His knowledge, his experience, his figacity, rendered him fo hitircly mqjler of his fubjeel, that the greateft olflacles were furmouuted, and the moft dangerous navigations became eafy^ and aim of fafe, under his direction*
Ixi xv iii
INSCRIPTION   TO THE
He explored the Southern hem'ifphere to a much higher latitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal thofe who navigate the coafs of this if and.
By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his fldp^s company, he difcovered and introduced a fyjlem for the prefcrva-tion of the health of feamen in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his fecond voyage round the world, which continued upwards of three years, he lofl only one man by d'flempcr, of one hundred and eighteen, of which his company confftcd.
The death of this eminent and valuable man was a lofs to mankind in general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that refpetls ufeful accomplishments, that honours feience, and loves the benevolent and amiable affeclions of the heart. It is fill more to be deplored by this country, which may jtiftly boqft of having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that farrow is farther aggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not deferved. For, actuated always by the moft attentive care and tender compaffion for the f wages in general, this excellent man was ever afftduoufly endeavouring, by kind treatment, to diffipate their fears, and court their fricndfl.iip; overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interpofng, at the hazard of his life, to protect them from the fltdden rtflntmcnt of his own injured people.
The objeel of his laft mijfion was to difover and afertain the boundet* ries of Afia and America, and to penetrate into the Northern Ocean by the North Eaft Cape of'Afia.
Travcllcr I contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great inafter in his profejfton ; whofe fill and labours have enlarged natural philofphy; have extended nautical feience ; and have difclofcd the long concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation
3 of
of this globe, and, at the fame time, the arrogance of mortals, In pre-fuming to account, by their fpeculatious, for the laws by which he wai pleafed to create it. dt is now difcovered, beyond all doubt, that the fame Great Being who created the univcrfe by his fiat, by the fame ordained our earth to keep a jiifl poife, without a corrcfponding Southern continent—and it does fo ! " lie f retches out the North over the empty " place, and ha?igeth the earth upon nothing.''''   Job, xxvi. 7.
If the arduous but exatl refearches of this extraordinary man have not difcovered a new world, they have difcovered feas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us acquainted with iflands, people and productions, of which we had no conception. And if he has not been fo fortunate as Americas to give his name to a continent, his pretenfwns to fuch a difinclion remain unrivalled; and be vuitt be revered, while there remains u page of his own modefl account of his voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers fljall le inf rutted, by his new map of the Southern hemifphere, to trace the various cottrfes and difcoveries he has made.
df public fervices merit public acknowledgments ; if the man who adorned and raifed the fame of his country is deferviitg of honours, then Captain Co ok deferves to have a monument raifed to his memory, by a generous and grateful nation.
Virtutis uberrimum alimentum eft honos.
Val. Maximus, Lib. i. Cap. 6.
Vol. I.
m
LIST
t   xc* ]
LIST of the PLATES,
"With Directions for placing them.
[As many of the Purchafers of this Work may choofe to preferve the larger-fized Plates in a feparate volume in folio, thefe have been here marked with Afterifks ; and Bookfellers are cautioned not to have them bound up, with the reft of the Plates, in the places of thefe volumes pointed out by the refpective References, unlefs they receive particular directions for that purpofe.]
VOL. I.
Page		Plate N°
i	^General Chart exhibiting Captain Cook's dif-	
	CQveries             -             - -	L
51	Chart of Kerguelen's Land, with a fketch of	
	Prince Edward's Iflands	IF.
61	Sketches of Chriftmas Harbour,   and Port	
	Pallifer in Kerguelen's Land	III.
7*	*View of Chriftmas Harbour in Kerguelen's	
	Land                -            - -	IV.
83	Views on the Coaft of Kerguelen's Land f.	LXXXII.
9i	Chart and Views of Van Diemen's Land	V.
9<5	*A Mar. of Van Diemen's Land	VI.
101	*A Woman of Van Diemen's Land	vir.
too	*An Opoffum of Van Diemen's Land	VIII.
t A few of the Plates are not numbered in the order in which they are to be placed; but no inconvenience can enfue, as the references to the Pages of each Volume will remedy this unavoidable imperfe£ion.
m 2
	LIST   OF   THE PLATES.		
rage			Plate N#
1*7	•Plan of Ad venture Ray, in Van Diemen's Land		IX.
	*The Infide of a Hippah, in New Zeal	and	X.
*73	*A Man of Mangea	-	XL
225	Chart of the Friendly Iflands		xir.
230	•View at Anamooka	-	tin
244	"*The Reception of Captain Cook in Hapaee		XIV.
246	*A boxing match in Hapaee		XV.
249	*A Night Dance by Men in Hapaee	-	XVI.
250	*A Night Dance by Women in Hapaee	-	XVIL
264	•Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands		XVIIL
277	Sketch of Tongataboo Harbour	-	XIX.
312	•Poulaho, King of the Friendly Iflands,	drink-	
	ing Kava	-	XX.
3*4	*A Fiatooka or Morai, in Tongataboo	-	XXI.
337	*The Natche, a Ceremony in honour	of the	
	King's Son, in Tongataboo	-	XXII.
355	A Woman of Eaoo or Eooa	-	XXIII.
VOL. II.
32 51
Sketches of Mangea, Vol. i. p. 170 j—of Wa-teeoo, Vol. i. p. 180;—of Wenooa ette, Vol. i. p. 205 ;—and of Toobouai       - XXIV.
*A Human Sacrifice in a Moral, in Otaheite XXV.
•a young Woman of Otaheite bringing a prefent - - - XXVII.
•The Body of Tee, a Chief, as prcferved after
death, in Otaheite - - XXVI.
*a Dance, in Otaheite - - XXVIII.
*A young Woman of Otaheite, dancing XXIX.
Sketch of two Harbours on the North fide of
Eimeo - - XXX,
Page		Plate Nft
91	*A view of Huaheine •	XXXI.
179	Chriftmas Ifland	XXXII.
200	*A Moral in Atooi	XXXIII.
202	•The Infide of the Houfe in the Moral, in Atooi	XXXIV.
205-	•An Inland View in Atooi	XXXV.
258	Views on the Weft coaft of North America	LXXXVI.
269	•Chart of the North Weft coaft of North Ame-	
	rica, and North Eaft coaft of Afia	XXXVI.
279	Sketch of Nootka Sound	XXXVII.
295	•A Sea Otter	XLIII.
301	*A man of Nootka Sound	XXXVIII.
3°3	•A woman of Nootka Sound	XXXIX.
306	•Various Articles at Nootka Sound	XL.
	1   A bird, made of wood ; hollow, with (tones	
	in the infide, which the Natives fhake when	
	they dance.	
	2   A Seal's head, made of wood, worn upon their	
	heads.	
	3   A bird's head, compofedof wood and feathers,	
	alfo worn upon their heads.	
	4   Another for the fame purpofe, and ornament-	
	ed with green talc.	
3*3	•View of the Habitations in Nootka Sound	XLI.
3X7	•The Infide of a Houfe in Nootka Sound	XLII.
353	Chart of Cook's River, and Prince William's	
	Sound            -            - -	XLIV.
361	•A view of Snug Corner Cove in Prince Wil-	
	liam's Sound	XLV.
3^7	•A Man of Prince William's Sound	XLVI.
369	*A Woman of Prince William's Sound	XLVII.
Page Plate N*
410   Views on the Weft coaft of North America, to
the Wcftward of Cook's River - LXXXVIL
421 *A Man of Oonalafhka - - XLVIII.
422 *A woman of OonalafJhka -        - XLIX.
423 *Canoes of Oonalafhka - L.
424 Sketch of Samganoodha Harbour at the Ifland
Oonalaflika - - LV.
447 *The Tfchuktfchi, or Tfchutfki, and their Habitations - LI.
457   *Sea Horfes - LII.
467   Chart of Norton Sound and Beering's Strait LIIL
471   Views on the coaft of Afia - LXXXIV*
484 ^Inhabitants of Norton Sound, and their Habitations - LIV.
510   *Caps of the natives of Oonalaflika - LVI.
512   ^Natives of Oonalaflika, and their habitations LVII.
514   *The Infide of a Houfe in Oonalafhka      - LVIII.
530   Views of the Sandwich Iflands - LXXXIIl.
V O L. III.
I	Chart of the Sandwich Iflands, and view of	
	Karakakooa Bay	LIX.
13	*An Offering before Captain Cook in the Sand-	
	wich Iflands	LX.
17	*Tereoboo or Terreeoboo, King of Owhyhee,	
	bringing prefents to Captain Cook	LXI.
*7	*A Mac of the Sandwich Iflands, dancing	LXII.
54	*A view of Karakakooa in Owhyhee	LXVIII,
12$	*A young woman of the Sandwich Iflands 1	LXIil.
Page Plate NV 126   *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands,   with his
helmet - - - LXIV.
139 *A Canoe of the Sandwich Iflands, the Rowers
malked - LXV.
140 *A Man of the Sandwich Iflands in a mane LX VI. 151   *Various Articles at the Sandwich Iflands LXVII.
N° 1 A wooden Instrument or Weapon, fet round wiih the teetli of Sharks, with which they cut up their prifoners.
2 Another, for the fame purpofe.
3 A mufical Inflrument; the upper part wicker-
work, covered with feathers ; the bottom part a gourd with ftones in it, which the
dancer fkakes about.—See Plate LXII.
4 An Idol upon wicker-work,   covered with
feathers the eyes mother of pearl, with a black nut-, the mouth fet with teech of dogs.
5 A Bracelet, compofed of the tufks of hogs. *
6 A wooden Dagger called Pabooab.
184   Sketch of Awatfka Bay in Kamtfchatka       - LXIX.
201   *A Man in Kamtfchatka travelling in winter LXX.
2Q2   *A Sledge in Kamtfchatka - - LXXI.
215   * A view at Bolcheretfkoi in Kamtfchatka LXXII.
252   *A white Bear - - - LXXIIf.
282   * A view of the Town and Harbour of St. Peter
and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka   ■        - LXXIV.
313   Views on the coaft of Kamtfchatka - LXXXV.
359 *A Man of Kamtfchatka - - LXXV.
360 *A Woman of Kamtfchatka            - LXXVI. 374   *Summer and Winter Habitations in Kamtfchatka            -            -         - LXXVIL
Page Plate N° 376   *The Infide of a Winter Habitation in Kamtfchatka            -            -            - LXXVIII. 397   Chart of the Coaft of Japan            - LXXIX. 409   Sketch of Sulphur Ifland                        - LXXX. 420   Sketch of the Typa and Macao            - LXXXI.
[N. B. The longitude in thefe volumes is reckoned from the meridian of Greenwich, and after pairing it to the Eaft, in the South Atlantic, is carried on Eafterly beyond the 180th degree, to the utmoft extent of the voyage; and back, to the fame meridian.]
A VOYAGE
VOYAGE
TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN,
BOOK I.
Tranfa£Hons from the Beginning of the Voyage till our Departure from New Zealand.
C II A P. I.
Various Preparations for the Voyage.—Omais Behaviour on embarking.—Obfervations for determining the Longitude of Sheernefs> and the North Foreland—Paffage of the Refolution from Deptford to Plymouth.—Employments there.—Complements of the Crews of both Shipsy and Names of the Officers.—Obfervations to fix tha Longitude of Plymouth.—Departure of the Refolution*
HAVING, on the ninth Day of February 1776, re- 1776.
ceived a commiffion to command his Majefty's floop tFeb™?ry^
the Refolution, I went on board the next clay, Saturday 10, hoifted the pendant, and began to enter men.   At the fame time, the Difcovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was Vol. I,                        B purchafed
1776.
February.
March. Saturday 9.
May. Monday 6.
Thurfday30.
June.
Saturday 8.
purchafed into the fervice, and the command of her given to Captain Gierke, who had been my fecond Lieutenant on board the Refolution, in my fecond voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned.
Thefe two mips were, at this time, in the dock at Deptford, under the hands of the fhipwrights; being ordered to be equipped to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under my direction.
On the 9th of March, the Refolution was hauled out of dock into the River; where we completed her rigging, and took on board the ftores and provifions rcquifite for a voyage of fuch duration. Both fhips, indeed, were fupplied with as much of every neceffary article as we could conveniently flow, and with the beft of every kind that could be procured. And, befides this, every thing that had been found, by the experience acquired during our former extenfivc voyages, to be of any utility in preferring the health of feamen, was fupplied in abundance.
It was our intention to have failed to Long Reach on the 6th of May, when a pilot came on board to carry us thither; but it was the 29th before the wind would permit us to move; and the 30th before we arrived at that flation, where our artillery, powder, fhot, and other ordnance ftores were received.
While we lay in Long Reach, thus employed, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifer, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the laft mark of the very great attention they had all along fhewn to this equipment, paid us a vifit on the 8th of June, to examine whether every thing had been completed conformably to their intentions and orders, and to the fatisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. 4 They,
They, and feveral other Noblemen and Gentlemen their \7?G-
friends, honoured me with their company at dinner on that \-
day; and, on their coming on board, and alfo on their going afhore, we faluted them with feventecn guns, and three cheers.
With the benevolent view of conveying fome permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other iflands in the Pacific Ocean, whom we might happen to vifit, his Majefly having commanded fome ufeful animals to be carried out, we took on board, on the ioth, a bull, Monday io# two cows with their calves, and fome fheep, with hay and corn for their fubfiflence ; intending to add to thefe, other ufeful animals, when I fhould arrive at the Cape of Good Hope.
I was alfo, from the fame laudable motives, furnifhed with a fufficient quantity of fuch of our European garden feeds, as could not fail to be a valuable prefent to ournewly-difcovcred iflands, by adding frefh fupplies of food to their own vegetable productions.
Many other articles, calculated to improve the condition of our friends in the other hemifphere in various ways, were, at the fame time, delivered to us by order of the Board of Admiralty. And both fhips were provided with a proper affortmcnt of iron tools and trinkets, as the means of enabling us to traffic, and to cultivate a friendly intercourfe with the inhabitants of fuch new countries as we might be fortunate enough to meet with.
The fame humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional cloatfung, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews: and nothing was denied to us that could be fuppofed in the leafl conducive to health, or even to convenience.
B 2 Nor
J776*        Nor did the extraordinary care of thofe at the head of the
June. J
i.—naval department flop here. They were equally folicitous to afford us every alfiflance towards rendering our voyage of public utility.   Accordingly, we received on board, next
Tuefday n. day, feveral aflronomical and nautical inflruments, which the Board of Longitude intrufted to me, and to Mr. King, my fecond Lieutenant; we having engaged to that Board to make all the neceffary obfervations, during the voyage, for the improvement of aftronomy and navigation ; and, by our joint labours, to fupply the place of a profeffed obfervator. Such a pcrfon had been originally intended to be fent out in my fhip.
The Board, like wife, put into our pofleflion the fame watch, or time-keeper, which I had carried out in my laft voyage, and had performed its part fo well. It was a copy of Mr. Harrifon's, conftrucfed by Mr. Kendall. This day, at noon, it was found to be too flow for mean time at Greenwich, by fy 31", 890; and by its rate of going, it lofl, on mean time, r", 209 per day.
Another time-keeper, and the fame number and fort of inflruments for making obfervations, were put on board the Difcovery, under the care of Mr. William Bailey; who,, having already given fatisfaclory proofs of his fkill and diligence as an obfervator, while employed in Captain Fur-ncaux's fhip, during the late voyage, was engaged a fecond time, in that capacity, to embark with Captain Clerke.
Mr. Anderfon, my furgeon, who, to fkill in his immediate profeflion, added great proficiency in natural hiftory, was as willing as he was well qualified, to defcribe every thing in that branch of feience which fhould occur worthy of notice. As he had already vifited the South Sea iflands in the fame fhip, and been of ftngular fervice, by enabling me to
enrich
enrich my relation of that voyage with various ufeful re- '/~6-
_  •       * June.
marks on men and things *, I reafonably expected to derive i-
confiderable affiftance from him, in recording our new proceedings.
I had feveral young men amongfl my fea-officers who, under my direction, could be ufefully employed in con-ftructing charts, in taking views of the coafts and headlands near which we fhould pafs, and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which we fhould anchor. A conusant attention to this I knew to be highly requifite, if we would render our difcoveries profitable to future navigators.
And, that we might go out with every help that could ferve to make the refult of our voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as infiructive to the failor and fcholar, Mr. Webber was pitched upon, and engaged to embark with me, for the exprefs purpofe of fupplying the unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling us to prefcrvc, and to bring home, fuch drawings of the mofl memorable fcenes of our tranfactions, as could only be executed by a profeffed and fkilful artifl.
livery preparation being now completed, I received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Difcovery under my command. I accordingly gave Captain Gierke two orders; one to put himfelf under my command, and the other to carry his fhip round to Plymouth,
On the 15th, the Refolution failed from Long Reach, Saturday 1 with the Difcovery in company, and the fame evening they
* The very copious Vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, and the comparative fpecimen of the languages of the feveral other iflands vifited during the former voyage* and publifhed in Captain Cook's account of it, were furniflied by Mr. Anderfon.
anchored
1776'     anchored at the Nore.   Next day the Difcovery proceeded,
June. ' *
i, .-„-. .1 in obedience to my order; but the Refolution was ordered to remain at the Nore till I mould join her, being at this time in London.
As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Iflands, in our way to the intended fcenc of our frefh operations, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one everlikely to happen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, every thing being ready for our de-Monday 24. parture, he and I fet out together from London on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning. We reached Chatham between ten and eleven o'clock ; and, after dining with Com-miflioner Proby, he very obligingly ordered his yacht to carry us to Sheernefs, where my boat was waiting to take us on board.
Omai left London with a mixture of regret and fatisfac-tion. When we talked about England, and about thofe who, during his flay, had honoured him with their protection or friendfhip, I could obferve that his fpirits were fen-fibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But, the inflant the converfation turned to his own iflands, his eyes began to fparkle with joy. He was deeply impreffed with a fenfe of the good treatment he had met with in England, and entertained the higheft ideas of the country and of the people. But the pleafmg profpeet he now had before him of returning home, loaded with what, he well knew, would becflcemed invaluable treafures there, and the flattering hope which the pofleffion of thefe gave him, of attaining to a diftinguifhed fuperiority amongfl his countrymen, were confiderations which operated, by degrees, to fupprefs every uneafy fenfation ; and he feemed to be quite happy when he got on board the fhip.
He was furnifhed, by his Majefty, with an ample provi- jgj
lion of every article which, during our intercourfe with his '—-v-'
country, we had obferved to be in any eftimation there, either as ufeful or as ornamental. He had, befides, received many prefents of the fame nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr.* Banks, and feveral other Gentlemen and Ladies of his acquaintance. In fhort, every method had been employed, both during his abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the inflrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, the moft exalted opinion of the greatnefs and generofity of the Britifh nation.
While the Refolution lay at the Nore, Mr. King made feveral obfervations for finding the longitude by the watch. The mean of them all, gave o° 44' o", for the longitude of the fhip. This, reduced to Shcernefsi by the bearing and eftimated diflance, will make that place to be o° 37' o" Eaft of Greenwich; which is more by feven miles than Mr. Lyons made it, by the watch which Lord Mulgrave had with him, on his voyage towards the North Pole. Whoever knows any thing of the diilance between Sheernefs and Greenwich, will be a judge which of thefe two obfervations is nearcfl the truth.
The variation of the needle here, by a mean of different fets, taken with different compaffes, was 200 37' Weft.
On the 25th, about noon, we weighed anchor, and made Tucfday25> fail for the Downs, through the Queen's Channel, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft.   At nine in the evening we anchored, with the North Foreland bearing South by Eaft, and Margate Point South Weft by South.
* Now Sir Jofeph.
Next
»776-        Next morning, at two o'clock, we weighed and flood
June.
v—u round the Foreland; and when it bore North, allowing for . ne. 26.        varjation 0f tne compafS( the watch gave i° 24' Earl
longitude, which, reduced to the Foreland, will be i° 21' Ea(l. Lunar obfervations made the preceding evening, fixed it at i° 20' Eaft. At eight o'clock the fame morning, we anchored in the Downs. Two boats had been built for us at Deal, and I immediately fent on fhore for them. I was told that many people had affembled there to fee Omai; but, to their great difappointment, he did not land.
Having received the boats on board, and a light breeze at South South Earl fpringing up, we got under fail the next Thurfday27. day at two o'clock in the afternoon. But the breeze foon died away, and we were obliged to anchor again till ten o'clock at night. We then weighed, with the wind at Eaft, and proceeded down the channel.
Sunday 30. On the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Difcovery had arrived only three days before. 1 faluted Admiral Amherft, whofe flag was flying on board the Ocean, with thirteen guns, and he returned the compliment with eleven.
It was the firft object of our care, on arriving at Plymouth, to replace the water and provifions that we had July.     expended, and to receive on board a fupply of Port Wine. Monday i.   This was the employment which occupied us on the ift and
Tuefday 2.     2d of July.
During our ftay here, the crews were ferved with frcfTi beef every day. And I fhould not do juftice to Mr. Omman-ney, the Agent Victualler, if I did not take this opportunity to mention, that he (liewed a very obliging rcadinefs to fur-nifh me with the beft of every thing that lay within his department.
partment.   I had been under the like obligations to him on yjc-
my fetting out upon my laft voyage.   Commiftioner Our- «-i-•
ry, with equal zeal for the fervice, gave us every affiftance that we wanted from the naval yard.
It could not but occur to us as a fingular and affecting circumftance, that at the very inftant of our departure upon a voyage, the object of which was to benefit Europe by making frefh difcoveries in North America, there fhould be the unhappy neceflity of employing others of his Majefty's fhips, and of conveying numerous bodies of land forces, to fecure the obedience of thofe parts of that continent which had been difcovered and fettled by our countrymen in the laft century. On the 6th, his Majefty's mips Diamond, Am- Saturday 6. bufcadc, and Unicorn, with a fleet of tranfports, confuting of frxty-two fail, bound to America, with the laft divifion of the Heflian troops, and fome horfe, were forced into the Sound by a ftrong North Weft Wind.
On the 8th, I received, by exprefs, my inflructions * for Monday s. the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution.  I was alfo directed to leave an order for Captain Gierke to follow us, as foon as he fhould join his fhip; he being, at this time, detained in London.
Our firft difcoverers of the New World, and navigators of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, were juftly thought to have exerted fuch uncommon abilities, and to have accomplifhcd fuch perilous enter prizes, that their names have been handed down to pofterity as fo many Argonauts. Nay, even the hulks of the fhips that carried them, though not converted into conftellations in the Heavens, ufed to be honoured and vifited as facred reliques upon earth.   We, in the pre-
* See the in.ftruir.ions, in the Introduction.
Vol. I. C
fent
fent age of improved navigation, who have been inflructed by their labours, and have followed them as our guides, have no fuch claim to fame. Some merit, however, being flill, in the public opinion, confidered as due to thofe who fail to unexplored quarters of the globe, in conformity to this favourable judgment, I prefixed to the account of my lafl voyage the names of the officers of both my fhips, and a table of the number of their refpective crews. The like information will be expected from me at prefent.
The Refolution was fitted out with the fame complement of officers and men fhe had before; and the Difcovery's eflablifhment varied from that of the Adventure, in the fmgle inflance of her having no marine officer on board. This arrangement was to be finally completed at Plymouth; and, on the 9th, we received the party of marines allotted for our voyage. Colonel Bell, who commanded the divifion at this port, gave me fuch men for the detachment as I had reafon to be fatisfied with. And the fupernumerary feamen* occafioned by this reinforcement, being turned over into the Ocean man of war, our feveral complements remained fixed, as reprefented in the following table :
RESOLUTION.
Officers and Men.
Captain, Lieutenants,
Mafter, Boatfwain, Carpenter, Gunner, Surgeon, Mailer's Mates, Midfhipmen, Surgeon's Mates, Captain's Clerk, Mafter at Arms, Corporal, Armourer, Ditto Mate, -Sail Maker, -Ditto Mate, Boatfwain's Mates, Carpenter's Ditto, Gunner's Ditto, Carpenter's Crew, Cook,
Ditto Mate, -Quarter Mailers, Able Seamen, -
Lieutenant,
Serjeant,
Corporals,
Drummer,
Private,
Total,
Nc
i
i
i
i
i
3 6
i i i i i i i i
3 5
4 i
i
6
45
i i
2 i
15 112
Officers Names.
fames Cook, John Gore. James King. John William Ton. William Bligh. ■ William Ewin. James Clevely. Robert Anderfon. William Anderfon.
Marines. Molcfworth Philips.
DISCOVERY.
1776. July-
N°
4
33
Officers Names.
80
Charles CIcrke. James Burney. John Rickman.
Thomas Edgar. Eneas Atkins. Peter Reynolds. William Peckover. John Law.
C a
jj£       On the 10th, the Commiffioner and Pay Clerks came on *---, board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 20th of laft
Wednef. 10,
month. The petty officers and feamen had, befides, two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter, is no more than what is cuftomary in the navy. But the payment of what was due to the fuperior officers was humanely ordered by the Admiralty, in confideration of our peculiar fituation, that we might be better able to defray the very great cxpence of furnifhing ourfelves with a flock of necef-faries for a voyage which, probably, would be of unufual duration, and to regions where no fupply could be expected.
Nothing now obftructing my departure but a contrary wind, which blew ftrong at South Weft, in the morning of
Thurfdayu. the nth, I delivered into the hands of Mr. Burney, firfl Lieutenant of the Difcovery, Captain Clerke's failing orders; a copy of which I alfo left with the Officer* commanding his Majefty's mips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Captain immediately on his arrival. In the afternoon, the wind moderating, we weighed with the ebb, and got farther out, beyond all the mipping in the Sound; where, after making an unfuccefsful attempt to get to fea, we were detained
PHday i2. moft of the following day, which was employed in receiving on board a fupply of water; and, by the fame veffel that brought it, all the empty calks were returned.
As I did not imagine my flay at Plymouth would have been fo long as it proved, we did not get our inflruments on lhore to make the neceffary obfervations for afcertaining the longitude by the watch. For the fame reafon, Mr. Baily did not fet about this, till he found that the Difcovery would,
• Captain Le Crafs, Admiral Amherft having ftruck his flag fome days before.
4 probably,
probably* be detained fome days after us. He then placed »77& his quadrant upon Drake's Ifland; and had time, before the j-JjJL,^ Refolution failed, to make obfervations fufficient for the purpofe we had in view. Our watch made the ifland to lie 4° 14', and his, 40 13A/, Weft of Greenwich. Its latitude, as found by Meffrs. Wales and Baily, on the laft voyage, is 500 21' 30" North.
We weighed again at eight in the evening, and flood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at North Weft by Weft.
CHAP.
C H A P. II.
J?a[fage of the Refolution to 'teneriffe.—Reception there.— Dejcription of Santa Cruz Road.—Refrepments to he .met ivtth.—Obfervations for fixing the Longitude of Teneriffe.—Some Account of the Ifland—Botanical Obfervations.—Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna.— Agriculture.—Air and Climate.—Commerce.—Inhabitants.
J776-     IT J E had not been long out of Plymouth Sound, before i—IjL—t   \ V   the wind came more wefterly, and blew frefh, fo that we were obliged to ply clown the Channel; and it was Sunday 14.   not till the 14th, at eight in the evening, that we were off the Lizard.
Tuefday 16. On the 16th, at noon, St. Agnes's Light-houfe on the Mcs of Scilly, bore North Weft by Weft, diflant feven or eight miles. Our latitude was, now, 490 53' 30" North, and our longitude, by the watch, 6° n' Weft. Hence, I reckon that St. Agnes's Light-houfe is in 490 57' 30" North latitude, and in 6° 20' of Weft longitude.
wednef. i7.     On the 17th * and iSth we were off Ufliant, and found the Sttt ay 18. iongitU£je Qf tiic ifland to be, by the watch, $° i8' 37" Weft. The variation was 230 o' 50", in the fame direction.
* It appears from Captain Cook's log-book, that he began his judicious operations for preferving the health of his crew, very early in the voyage. On the 17th, the (hip was fmqked between decks with gun-powder. The fpare fails alfo were then ;v/ell aired.
2 With
With a ftrong gale at South, on the 19th, we flood to the yj^-weftward, till eight o'clock in the morning; when, the wind        ^ ' ihifting to the Weil and North Weft, we tacked and ft retch* ed to the Southward.   At this time, we faw nine fail of large mips, which we judged to be French men of war. They took no particular notice of us, nor we of them.
At ten o'clock in the morning of the 22d, we faw Cape Monday 22. Ortegal; which at noon bore South Eaft, half South, about four leagues diftant.   At this time we were in the latitude of 440 6' North; and our longitude, by the watch, was 8° 23' Weft.
After two days of calm weather we paffed Cape Fini-flerre, on the afternoon of the 24th, with a fine gale at wednef. 24. North North Eaft. The longitude of this Cape, by the watch, is 90 29' Weft; and, by the mean of forty-one lunar obfcrvations, made before and after we paffed it, and rev duced to it by the watch, the refult was 90 19' 12".
On the 30th, at fix minutes and thirty-eight feconds pafl Tuefday 39. ten o'clock at night, apparent time, I obferved, with a night telefcope, the moon totally eclipfed. By the ephemens, the fame happened at Greenwich at nine minutes paft eleven o'clock ; the difference being one hour, two minutes, and twenty-two feconds, or 150 35' 30" of longitude. The watch, for the fame time, gave 150 26' 45" longitude Weft; and latitude 310 io'North. No other observation could be niadc on this eclipfe, as the moon was hid behind the clouds the greater part of the time; and, in particular, when the beginning and end of total darknefs, and the end of the eclipfe, happened.
Finding that we had not hay and corn fufficient for the fubfiftence of the flock of animals on board, till our arrival
at
at the Cape of Good Hope, I determined to touch at Tene-riilc, to get a fupply of thefe, and of the ufual refrefhments for ourfelves; thinking that ifland, for fuch purpofes, better adapted than Madeira. At four in the afternoon of the 31ft, we faw Teneriffe, and fleered for the eaflern part. At nine, being near it, we hauled up, and flood off and on during the night.
At day-light, on the morning of the ifl of Augufl, wc failed round the Eaft Point of the ifland; and, about eight o'clock, anchored on the South Eaft fide of it, in the Road of Santa Cruz, in twenty-three fathoms water j the bottom, fand and owze. Punta de Nago, the Eaft point of the Road, bore North 640 Eafl j St. Francis's church, remarkable for its high fleeple, Weft South Weft; the Pic, South 650 Weft; and the South Weft point of the Road, on which Rands a fort or caftle, South 390 Weft. In this fituation, we moored North Eaft and South Weft, with a cable each way, being near half a mile from the more.
We found, riding in this Road, La Bouffole, a French frigate, commanded by the Chevalier de Borda; two brigantincs of the fame nation ; an Englifh brigantine from London, bound to Senegal; and fourteen fail of Spanifh veffels.
No fooner had we anchored, than we were vifited by the Mafter of the Port, who fatisfied himfelf with afking the fhip's name. Upon his leaving us, I fent an officer afhore, to prefent my refpeclis to the Governor; and to afk his leave to take in water, and to purchafe fuch articles as wc were in want of. All this he granted with the greateft politenefs; and, foon after, fent an officer on board, to compliment me on my arrival. In the afternoon, I waited upon him in per-fon, accompanied by fome of my officers; and, before I
returned
returned to my fhip, befpoke fome corn and flraw for the live 1776. flock ; ordered a quantity of wine from Mr, M'Carrick, the u-l^L. contractor, and made an agreement with the mailer of a Spanifh boat to fupply us with water, as I found that we could not do it ourfelves.
The road of Santa Cruz Is fituated before the town of the fame name, on the South Eafl fide of the ifland. It is, as I am told, the principal road of Teneriffe, for fhelter, capacity, and the goodnefs of its bottom. It lies entirely open to the Soutii Eaft and South winds. But thefe winds are never of long continuance and, they fay, there is not an inflance * of a fhip driving from her anchors on more. This may, in part, be owing to the great care they take in mooring them; for 1 obferved, that all the fhips we met with there, had four anchors out; two to the North Eafl, and two to the South Weft; and their cables buoyed up with calks. Ours fullered a little by not obferving this lall precaution.
At the South Well part of the road, a flone pier runs out into the fea from the town, for the convenience of loading and landing of goods. To this pier, the water that fupplies the fhipping is conveyed. This, as alfo what the inhabitants of Santa Cruz ufe, is derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, the greatefl part of which comes into the town in wooden fpouts or troughs, that arc fupportcd by {lender polls, and the remainder doth not reach the fea ; though it is evident, from the fize of the channel, that
* Though no fuch inftance was known to thofe from whom Captain Cook had this information, we learn from Ghis, that feme years before he was at Teneriffe, ahnojl all the foipping in the road were driven on bore. Sec G'las's Hifi. of the Canary Jjjands, p. 235. We may well fuppofe the precautions now ufed, have prevented any more fuch accidents happening.   This will fufficiently juftifv Captain Cook's account.
Vol. I. D fometimes
fometimes large torrents rufli clown. At this time thefe troughs were repairing, fo that frefh water, which is very good here, was fcarcc.
Were we to judge from the appearance of the country in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren fpot, infufflcient to maintain even its- own inhabitants. The ample fupplies, however, which we received, convinced us that they had enough to fpare for vifuors. Befides wine, which is the chief produce of the ifland, beef may be had at a moderate price. The oxen are fmall and boney, and weigh about ninety pounds a quarter. The meat is but lean, and was, at prefent, fold for half a bit (three pence flerling) a pound. i, unadvifedly, bought the bullocks alive, and paid confiderably more. Hogs, fheep, goats and poultry, are likewifc to be bought at the fame moderate rate; and fruits are in great plenty. At this time we had grapes, figs, pears, mulberries, plantains, and mufk melons. There is a variety of other fruits produced here, though not in feafon at this time Their pumpkins, onions, and potatoes, are exceedingly good of their kind, and keep better at fea than any i ever before met with.
The Indian corn, which is alfo their produce, cofl me about three (hillings and fixpence a bufhel j and the fruits and roots were, in general, very cheap. They have not any plentiful fupply of fifh from the adjoining fea; but a very considerable filhery is carried on by their veilels upon the coaft of Barbary ; and the produce of it fells at a reasonable price. Upon the whole, 1 found Teneriffe to be a more eligible place than Madeira, for mips bound on long voyages to touch at; though the wine of the latter, according to my
taftc.
>
THE    PACIFIC   OCEAN. 19 tafte, is as much Superior to that of the former, as ftrong }77&-
. Auguit.
beer is to fmall.   To compenfate for this, the difference of <—*—/ prices is confidcrable; for the befi Teneriffe wine was now fold for twelve pounds a pipe; whereas a pipe of the befi Madeira would have cofl confiderably more than double that fum *.
The Chevalier de Borda, Commander of the French frigate now lying in Santa Cruz road, was employed, in conjunction with Mr. Varila, a Spanifh Gentleman, in making agronomical obfervations for afecrtaining the going of two time-keepers which they had on board their fhip. For this purpofe, they had a tent pitched on the pier head, where they made their obfervations, and compared their watches, every day at noon, with the clock on more, by fignals. Thefe fignals the Chevalier very obligingly communicated to us; fo that we could compare our watch at the fame time. But our flay was too fhort, to profit much by his kindnefs.
The three days comparifons which we made, affurcd us that the watch had not materially, if at all, altered her rate of going; and gave us the fame longitude, within a very few feconds, that was obtained by finding the time from obfervations of the fun's altitude from the horizon of the fea. The watch, from a mean of thefe obfervations, on the iff, 2d, and 3d of Auguit, made the longitude 160 31'
* Formerly, there was made at TenerifTe a great quantity of Canary facie, which the French call V'tn dc Malvcfie ; and we, corruptly after them, name Malmfey (from Malvefia, a town in the Morea, famous for fuch lufcious wine). In the laft century, and itill later, much of this was imported into England ; but little wine is now made there, but of the fort defcribed by Captain Cook. Not moje than fifty pipes of the rich Canary was annually made in Glas's time; and he fays, they now gather the grapes when green, and make a dry hard wine of them, lit for hot climate?, p. 262. ,
D 2 Weft;
Weft; and, in like manner, the latitude was found to be 280 30' ii" North.
Mr. Varila informed us, that the true longitude was i8°35' 30", from Paris, which is only 160 161 30" from Greenwich -a lefs than what our watch gave by 14' 30". But, far from looking upon this as an error in the watch, I rather think it a confirmation of its having gone well; and that the longitude by it may be nearer the truth than any other. It is farther confirmed by the lunar obfervations that we made in the road, which gave 160 37' 10". Thofe made before we arrived, and reduced to the road by the watch, gave i6Q 33' 30": and thofe made after we left it, and reduced back in the fame manner, gave 160 28'. The mean of the three is 16° 30' 40". .
To reduce thefe feveral longitudes, and the latitude, to the Pic of Teneriffe, one of the moft noted points of land with Geographers (to obtain the true fituation of which, I have entered into this particular difcuffion), I had recourfe to the bearing, and a few hours of the fhip's run after leaving Santa Cruz road; and found it to be 12' 11" South of the road, and 29' 30'' of longitude Weft of it. As the bafe, which helped to determine this, was partly eftimated, it is liable to fome error; but I think I cannot be much miftaken. Dr. Mafkelyne, in his Briti/h Mariners Guide, places the Pic in the latitude of 280 12' 54". This, with the bearing from the road, will give the difference of longitude 43', which conflderably exceeds the diftance they reckon the Pic to be from Santa Cruz. I made the latitude of the Pic to be 200 18' North. Upon that fuppofuion, its longitude will be as follows:
By
f The Time-keeper   -    170 o' 30"! A^Jj By ■] Lunar obfervations   -   16° 30' 20" > Weil. <— *Mr. Varila     -       -   160 40' o"3
But if the latitude of it is 28* 12' 54", as in the BritifJj Mariner's Guide, its longitude will be 13' 30" more wefterly.
The variation, when we were at anchor in the road, by the mean of all our compaffes, was found to be 140 41' 20" Weft. The dip of the North end of the needle was 61* 52' 30".
Some of Mr. Anderfon's remarks on the natural appearances of Teneriffe, and its productions; and what he obferved himfelf, or learnt hy information, about the general ftate of the ifland, will be of ufe, particularly in marking what changes may have happened there fince Mr. Glas vifited it. They here follow in his own words:
" While we were (landing in for the land, the weather being perfectly clear, we had an opportunity of feeing the celebrated Pic of Teneriffe. But, I own, I was much difap-pointed in my expectation with refpect to its appearance. It is, certainly, far from equalling the noble figure of Pico, one of the weftern iiles which I have ieen ; though its perpendicular height may be greater. This circumflancc, perhaps, arifes from its being furrounded by other very high hills; whereas Pico Hands without a rival.
Behind the city of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradually, and is of a moderate height. Beyond this, to the South Weftward, it becomes higher, and continues to rife towards the Pic, which, from the road, appears but little higher than the funounding hills. From thence it feems to decreafe, though not fuddenly, as far as the eye can reach. From a fuppofition that we fhould not flay above one day,
I was
21 AVOYAGETO
A'uguft     * was 0u^Sccl t0 contract my excurfions into the country ;
y-' otherwise, I had propofcd to vifit the top of this famous
mountain*.
To the eaftward of Santa Cruz, the ifland appears perfectly barren. Ridges of hills run towards the fea ; between which ridges arc deep valleys, terminating at mountains or hills that run acrofs, and are higher than the former. Thofe that run towards the fea, are marked by impreflions on their fides, which make them appear as a fuccefhon of conic hills, with their tops very rugged. The higher ones that run acrofs, are more uniform in their appearance.
In the forenoon of the iftof Auguft, after we had anchored in the road, 1 went on more to one of thefe valleys, with an intention to reach the top of the remoter hills which feemed covered with wood; but time would not allow me to get farther than their foot. After walking about three miles, I found no alteration in the appearance of the lower hills; which produce great quantities of the euphorbia Cariarienfts. It is furprifing that this large fucculent plant, fhould thrive on fo burm-up a foil. When broken, which is eaiily done, the quantity of juice is very great; and it might be fuppofed that, when dried, it would ihrivel to nothing; yet it is a pretty tough, though foft and light
* See an account of a journey to the top of the Pic of TcnerifFe, in Sprat's Hijlory cf the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. Glas alio went to the top of it. Hijlory of the Canary Jjlands, p. 252 to 259. In the Philofophical Tranfaclions, vol. xlvii. p. — -45b, we have Obfervations made, in going up the Pic of Tencrijfe, by Dr. T. tieber-den. The Doctor makes its height, above the level of the fea, to be 2566 fathom?, or 15,396 Fnglilh feet; and fays, that this was confirmed by two fubfequen't obfervations by himfelf, and another made by Mr. Crofle, the Conful. And yet, I find, that the Chevalier de Borda, who meafured the height of this mountain in Auguft 1776, makes it to be only 1931 French toifes, or 12,340 Knglifli feet. -Sec Dodtor Foriler's Obfervations during a Voyage round the World, p. 32.
wood.
wood. The people here believe its juice to be fo cauftic as to erode the fkin *; but I convinced them, though with v much difficulty, to the contrary, by thrufting my linger into the plant full of it, without afterwards wiping it off. They break down the bullies of euphorbia, and fuffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. 1 met with nothing elfe growing there, but two or three fmall fhrubs, and a few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley.
The bafis of the hills is a heavy, compact, blueifh ffonc, mixed with fome finning particles; and, on the furface, large maffes of red friable earth, or flone, arc fcattered about. I alfo often found  the fame fu bit a nee difpofed in thick jlraia; and the little earth, flrewed here and there, was a
blackifh mould. There were likewife fome pieces of flag; one of which, from its weight and fmooth furface, feemed' almofl wholly metalline.
The mouldering flate of thefe hills is, doubtlefs, owing to the perpetual action of the fun, which calcines their furface. This mouldered part being afterwards wafhed away by the heavy rains, perhaps is the caufe of their fides being fo uneven. For, as the different fubilances of which they are compofed, are more or lets eafily affected by the fun's heat they will be carried away in the like proportions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardefl rock, have flood, while the other parts on a declivity have been dellroyed. As I have ufually obferved, that the tops of mod: mountains that are covered with trees have a more uniform appearance, I am inclined to believe that this is owing to their being fhaded.
* G/as, p. 231, fpeaking of this plant, fays, that he cannot imagine why the natives of the Canaries do not extracl the juice, and ufe it injlead of pitch, for the bottom? of their boats.   We now learn from Mr. Anderfon their reafon for not uiing it.
2 The
The city of Santa Cruz, though not large, is tolerably well built. The churches are nor magnificent without; but within are decent, and indifferently ornamented. They are inferior to fome of the churches at Madeira; but, I imagine, this rather arifes from the different difpofition of the people, than from their inability to fupport them better. For the private houfes, and drefs of the Spanilh inhabitants of Santa Cruz, are far preferable to thofe of the Portuguefe at Madeira ; who, perhaps, are willing to If rip themfeives, that they may adorn their churches.
Almoft facing the ftone pier at the landing-place, is a handfome marble column lately put up, ornamented with fome human figures, that do no difcredit to the artift; with an infeription in Spanifh, to commemorate the occafion of the erection; and the date.
In the afternoon of the 2d, four of us hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna *, fo called from an adjoining lake, about four miles from Santa Cruz. We arrived there between five and fix in the evening; but found a fight of it very unable to compenfate for our trouble, as the road was very bad, and the mules but indifferent. 1 he place is, indeed, pretty extenfive, but fearcely deferves to be dignified with the name of City. The difpofkiori of its ffrecrs is very irregular; yet fome of them arc of a tolerable breadth, and have fome good houfes In general, however, Laguna is inferior in appearance to Santa Cruz, though the latter is but fmall, if compared with the former. We were informed, likewife, that Laguna is declining fa ft ; there being, at
* Its extended name is St. Chriflobal de la Laguna; and it ufed to be reckoned the capital of the ifland, the gentry and lawyer's living there; though the Governor General of the Canary Iflands rciides at Santa Cruz, as being the center of their trade, both with Europe and America.   See Glas's Hljh p. 248.
9 prefent,
prefent, fome  vineyards where houfes formerly whereas Santa Cruz is encreafmg daily.
The road leading from Santa Cruz to Laguna runs up a fleep hill, which is very barren; but, lower down, we faw fome fig-trees, and feveral corn fields. Thefe are but fmall, and not thrown into ridges, as is practifed in England. Nor does it appear that they can raife any corn here without great labour, as the ground is fo encumbered with ffones, that they arc obliged to collect and lay them in broad rows, or walls, at fmall diflances. The large hills that run to the South-weft, appeared to be pretty well furnifhed with trees. Nothing elfe worth noticing prcfentcd itfelf during this excurfion, except a few aloe plants in flower, near the fide of the road, and the chcerfulnefs of our guides, who amufed us with fongs by the way.
Moft of the laborious work in this ifland is performed by mules; horfes being to appearance fcarce, and chiefly referved for the ufe of the officers. They are of a final! fize, but well fhaped and fpirited. Oxen are alfo employed to drag their calks along upon a large clumfy piece of wood; and they arc yoked by the head ; though it doth not feem that this has any peculiar advantage over our method of fixing the harnefs on the fhoulders. In my walks and ex-curfions I faw fome hawks, parrots, which are natives of the ifland, the fea fvvallow or tern, fea gulls, partridges, wagtails, fwallows, martins, blackbirds, and Canary-birds in large flocks. There are alfo lizards of the common, and another fort; fome infects, as locufls; and three or four forts of dragon flies.
I had an opportunity of convcrfing with a fenfible and well-informed gentleman refiding here, and whofe veracity Vol. I. E I have
flood ;
1776. Auguft
}tlh    I have not the lead reafon to doubt.   From him I learnt
Auguit.
—„—j fome particulars, which, during the fliort flay of three days, did not fall within my own obfervation. He informed me, that a fhrub is common here, agreeing exactly with the defcription given by Tournefort and Linnams, of the tea Jbrub\ as growing in China and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and he roots out thoufands of them every year, from his vineyards. The Spaniards, however, of the ifland, fometimes ufe it as tea, and afcribe to it all the qualities of that imported from China, They alfo give it the name of tea ; but what is remarkable, they fay it was found here when the. iflands were firft: difcovered.
Another botanical curiofity, mentioned by him, is what they call the impregnated lemon*. It is a perfect: and diftinct lemon, inclofed within another, differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular. The leaves of the tree that produces this fort, are much longer than thofe of the common one; and it was reprefented to me as being crooked, and not equal in beauty.
From him I learnt alfo, that a certain fort of grape growing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthifical complaints. And the air and climate, in general, are remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in fuch difeafes. This he endeavoured to account for, by its being always in one's power to procure a different tenv perature of the air, by refiding at different heights in the ifland; and he expreffed his furprize that the Englifh phy-ficians fhould never have thought of fending their con-fumptive patients to Teneriffe, inftead of Nice or Lifbon.
* The Writer of the Relation of Teneriffe, in Sprat's Hijlory, p. 207, takes notice ©f this lemon as produced here, and calls it Pregnada, Probably, emprennada, the Spa-niih word for impregnated^ is the name it goes by,
4 How
How much the temperature of the air varies here, I myfelf could fenfiby perceive, only in riding from Santa Cruz up to Laguna; and you may afcend till the cold becomes intolerable. I was allured that no perfon can live comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the Pic, after the month of Auguft *.
Although fome fmoke conffantly iffues from near the top of the Pic, they have had no earthquake or eruption of a volcano fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica, where much of their trade was formerly carried on, was deftroy* ed f.
Their trade, indeed, muff be confidcred as very confider-able ; for they reckon that forty thoufand pipes of wine are annually made; the greatefl part of which is either con-fumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, and fent to the Spanifh Wefl Indies About fix thoufand pipes were exported every year to North America, while the trade with it
* This agrees with Dr. T. Heberden's account, who fays that the fugar-loaf part of the mountain, or la pericofa (as it is called), which is an eighth part of a league (or 1980 feet) to the top, is covered with fnow the greatefl part of the year. See Pbilofo-phical TranfaclionSy as quoted above.
■\ This port was then filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcano j infomuch that houfes are now built where fhips formerly lay at anchor. Sec Glas's Hifl. p. 244.
% Glas, p. 342, fays, that they annually export no lefs than fifteen thoufand pipes of wine and brandy. In another place, p. 252, he tells us, that the number of the inhabitants of TencrifTe, when the laft account was taken, was no lefs than 96,000. We may reafonably fuppofe that there has been a oonfiderable increafe of population fince Glas vifited the ifland, which is above thirty years ago. The quantity of wine annually confumed, as the common beverage of at leaft one hundred thoufand perfons, muft amount to feveral thoufand pipes. There muft be a vaft expenditure of it, by converfion into brandy ; to produce one pipe of which, five or fix pipes of wine muft be diftilled. An attention to thefe particulars will enable every one to judge, that the account given to Mr. Anderfon, of an annual produce of 40,000 pipes of wine, has a foundation in truth,
E 2 was
i776-    was uninterrupted*, at prefent, they think not above half s—^j the quantity.   The corn they raife is, in general, infuffi-cient to maintain the inhabitants; but the deficiency ufed to be fupplied by importation from the North Americans, who took their wines in return.
They make a little filk; but unlefs we reckon the filtering-Hones, brought in great numbers from Grand Canary, the wine is the only confidcrable article of the foreign commerce of Tenet iife.
None of the race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards difcovered the Canaries now remain a diftincl: people *| having intermarried with the Spanifli fettlers; but their defcendants are known, from their being remarkably tall, large-boned, and ftrong. The men are, in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a pale complexion, entirely deftitute of that bloom which diftinguiflies our Northern beauties. The Spanifli cuffom of wearing black clothes continues amongil thcm\ but the men feem more indifferent about this, and, in fome meafure, drefs like the French. In other refpects, we found the inhabitants of Teneriffe to be a decent and very civil people, retaining that * grave eafl which diftinguiflies thofe of their country from other European nations. Although we do not think that there is a great fimilarity between our manners and thofe of the Spaniards, it is worth obferving, that Omai did not think there was much difference. He only faid, that they feemed not fo friendly as the Englifh ; and that, in their perfons, they approached thofe of his countrymen."
* It was otherwife in Glas's time, when a few families of the Guanches (as they are called) remained flill in Teneriffe, not blended with the Spaniards.   Glas, p. 240.
CHAP.
chap. nr.
Departure from Teneriffe.—Danger of the Ship near Bo-navifia.—Ifle of Mayo.—Port Pray a.—Precautions againji the Rain and fultry Weather in the Neighbourhood of the Equator.—Pofition of the Coaft of Brazil.— Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.—Tranfaclions there. —fujiBion of the Difcovery.—Mr. Anderfons four my up the Country.—Agronomical Obfervations.—Nautical Remarks on the Pafjage from England to the Cape, with regard to the Currents and the Variation.
TJAVING completed our water, and got on board every XJL other thing we wanted at Teneriffe, we weighed anchor on the 4th of Auguft, and proceeded on our voyage, Sunday 4. with a fine gale at North Eafl.
At nine o'clock in the evening on the iotli** we faw the Saturday 10. ifland of Bonavifla bearing South, diflant little more than a league; though, at this time, we thought ourfelves much farther off; but this proved a miflake. -For, after hauling to the Eafl ward till twelve o'clock, to clear the funken rocks that lie about a league from the South Eafl point of the ifland, we found ourfelves, at that time, clofe upon them,
* As a proof of Captain Cook's attention, both to the difcipline and to the health of his fhip's company, it may be worth while to obferve here, that it appears from his log-book, be exercij'ed them at great guns and fmall arms, and cleared and fnoked the ftp bJ'Av decks, twice in the interval between the 4th and the 10th of Auguft*
and.
1776".
Auquk\
and did but juft weather the breakers.   Our fituation, for a
\--■ few minutes, was very alarming.   I did not chufe to found,
as that might have heightened the danger, without any poffibility of lcffening it. I make the North end of the ifland of Bonavifla to lie in the latitude of i6a if North, and in the longitude of 220 59/ Weft.
Sunday ii, As foon as we were clear of the rocks, we fleered South South Weft, till day-break next morning, and then hauled to the Weftward, to go between Eonavifta and the ifle of Mayo, intending to look into Port Praya for the Difcovery, as 1 had told Captain Clerke that I fhould touch there, and did not know how foon he might fail after me. At one in the afternoon, we faw the rocks that lie on the South Weft fide of Bonavifla, bearing South Eaft, diftant three or four leagues.
Next morning, at fix o'clock, the ifle of Mayo bore South Monday 12. South Eaft, diftant about five leagues. In this fituation we founded, and found ground at fixty fathoms. At the fame time the variation, by the mean of feveral azimuths taken with three different compafles, v/as <f 32."-' Weft. At eleven o'clock, one extreme of Mayo boreEaft by North, and the other South Eaft by South. In this pofition, two roundifh hills appeared near its North Eaft part; farther on, a large and higher hill; and, at about two-thirds of its length, a fingle one that is peaked. At the diftance we now faw this ifland, which was three or four miles, there was not the leail appearance of vegetation, nor any relief to the eye from that lifelefs brown which prevails in countries under the Torrid Zone that are unwooded.
Here 1 cannot help remarking that Mr. Nichelfon, in his Preface to Sundry Remarks and Obfervations made in a Voyage to
the
the Ea/t Indies *, tells us, that " with eight degrees Weft va-" riation, or any thing above that, you may venture to fail " by the Cape de Verde Iflands night or day, being well " affined, with that variation, that you are to the Eaftward M of them." Such an affertion might prove of dangerous confequence, were there any that would implicitly truft to it. We alfo tried the current, and found one fetting South Weft by Weft, fomething more than half a mile an hour. We had reafon to expect this, from the differences between the longitude given by the watch and dead reckoning, which,, fince our leaving Teneriffe, amounted to one degree.
While we were amongft thefe iflands we had light breezes of wind, varying from the South Eaft to Eaft, and fome calms. This fhews that the Cape de Verde Iflands arc either extenfivc enough to break the current of the trade wind, or that they are fituated juft beyond its verge, in that fpace where the variable winds, found on getting near the line, begin. The firft fuppofition, however, is the moft probable, as Dampier-f found the wind wefterly here in the month of February; at which time the trade wind is fuppofed to extend fartheft towards the equinoctial, 'fhe weather was hot and fultry, with fome rain ; and, for the moft part, a dull whitenefs prevailed in the fky, that fcems a medium between fog and clouds. In general, the tropical regions fcldom enjoy that clear atmofphcre obfcrvable where variable winds blow; nor docs the fun fhine with fuch brightnefs. This circumftance, however, feems am advantage ; for otherwife, perhaps, the rays of the fun, being uninterrupted, would render the heat quite unfup-
* On board his Majefty's fhip Elizabeth, from 1758 to 17643 .by William Ni~ chelfon, Mafter of the faid Ship.   London, 1773. Dampier's Voyages, Vol. iii. p. 10.
portable.
177% portable. The nights are, ncverthelefs, often clear and \-1-' ferene.
Tuefday 13. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 13th, we arrived before Port Praya, in the ifland of St. Jago, where we faw two Dutch Eafl India mips, and a fmall brigan .ine at anchor. As the Difcovery was not there, and we had expended but little water in our paffage from Teneriffe, I did not think proper to go in, but flood to the Southward. Some altitudes of the Sun were now taken, to ascertain the true time. The longitude by the watch, deduced therefrom, was 230 48' Weft; the little ifland in the bay bore Weft North Weft, diftant near three miles, which will make its longitude 230 51'. The fame watch, on my late voyage, made the longitude to be 230 30' Weft; and we obferved the latitude to be 140 53' 30" North.
wednef. 14. The day after we left the Cape de Verde Iflands, we loft the North Eaft trade wind; but did not get that which blows
Friday 30. from the South Eaft till the 30th, when we were in the latitude of 20 North, and in the twenty-fifth degree of Weft longitude.
During this interval *, the wind was moftly in the South Weft quarter. Sometimes it blew frefh, and in fqualls; but for the moft part a gentle breeze. The calms were few, and of fhort duration. Between the latitude of 120 and of f North, the weather was generally dark and gloomy,
* On the 18th, I funk a bucket with a thermometer feventy fathoms below the furface of the fea, where it remained two minutes j and it took, three minutes more to haul it up. The mercury in the thermometer was at 66, which before, in the air, flood at 78, and in the furface of the fea at 79. Tire water which came up in the bucket contained, by Mr. C a vend ifh's table, ~V, 7 part fait; and that at the furface <jf the fea 2'v, 4. As this laft was taken up after a fmart fliowcr of rain, it might be .lighter on that account.   Captain Cook's log-book,
8 with
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 33 with frequent rains, which enabled us to fave as much wa-
L Auguft.
ter as filled molt of our empty calks. <-j
Thefe rains, and the clofe fultry weather accompanying them, too often bring on ficknefs in this paffage. Every bad confcquencc, at leaft, is to be apprehended from them ; and commanders of mips cannot be too much upon their guard, by purifying the air between decks with fires and fmoke, and by obliging the people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. Thefe precautions were conftantly obferved on board the Refolution * and Difcovery; and we certainly profited by them, for we had now fewer lick than on either of my former voyages. We had, however, the mortification to find our fhip exceedingly leaky in all her upper works. The hot and fultry weather we had juft paffed through, had opened her feams, which had been badiy caulked at firft, fo wide, that they admitted the rain water through as it fell. There was hardly a man that could lie dry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their cabbins, by the water that came through the fides. The fails in the fail-room got wet; and before we had weather to dry them, many of them were much damaged, and a great expence of canvas and of time became neceffary to make them in fome degree ferviceable. Having experienced the fame defect: in our fail-rooms on my late voyage, it had been reprefented to the yard officers, who undertook to remove it. But it did not appear to me that any thing had been done to remedy the complaint.
* The particulars are mentioned in his log-book. On the 14th of Auguft, a fire was made in the well, to air the fhip below. On the 15th, the fpare fails were aired upon deck, and a fire made to air the fail-room. On the 17th, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks, and the bread-room aired with fires. On the 21ft, cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks j and on the 22d, the men's bedding was fpread on deck to air.
Vox.. I. F To
Auguft.   To rePair tnefe defects the caulkers were fet to work, as
<—„-/ foon ag we g0t jnto fajr fettled weather, to caulk the decks
and infide weather-works of the fhip; for I would not trufl them over the fides while we were at fea.
Sunda^ber' ^n t^ie **r^ °^ September * we croffed the Equator, in the longitude of 270 38' Weft, with a fine gale at South Eaft by South ; and notwithstanding my apprehenfions of falling in with the coaft of Brazil in ftretching to the South Weft, I kept the fhip a full point from the wind. However, I found my fears were ill-grounded; for on drawing near that coaft, we met with the wind more and more eafterly; fo that, by the time we were in the latitude of io° South, we could make a South Eafterly courfe good.
Sunday 3. On the 8th, we were in the latitude of 8° 57' South; which is a little to the Southward of Cape St. Auguftine, on the coaft of Brafil. Our longitude, deduced from a very great number of lunar obfervations, was 340 16' Weft ; and by the
* The afternoon, as appears from Mr. Anderfon's Journal, was fpent in performing the old and ridiculous ceremony of ducking thofe who had not crofled the Equator before. Though Captain Cook did not fupprefs the cuftom, he thought it too trifling to deferve the leaft mention of it in his Journal, or even in his log-book. Pernctty, the Writer of Bougainville's Voyage to the Falkland Iflands, in 1763 and 1764, thought differently j for his account of the celebration of this childifh feftival on board his fhip, is extended through feventeen pages, and makes thefubjc&of an entire chapter, under the title of Baptemc de la Ligiie.
It may be worth while to tranferibe his introduction to the defcription of it. « Ce'ft ** un ufage qui ne remonte pas plus haut que ce voyage celebie de Gama, qui a fourni " au Camoens le fujet de la Lufi?.de. L'Idee qu'on ne fcauroit etre un bon marin, " fans avoir traverfe PEquateur, 1'ennui infeparable d'une longue navigation, un cer-*< tain cfprit republicain qui regnc dans toutes les petites fociete's, peut-etre toutes ces «* caufes reunies, on pu donner naiflance a ces efpeces de faturnalcs. Quoiqu'il en foit, ** ellcs furent adoptees, en un inftant, dans toutes les nations, & les homm.es les plus i< eclaites furent obliges de fe foumcttre a une coutume dent ils reconnoiflbient l'ab-«* furdite. Car, partout, de< q;je ie peuple parle, it faut que le fage fe niette a Punifon." Hijloire&un Voyage aux IJles Malcuines, p. 107, 108.
watch 3
watch, 340 47'.  The former is i° 43', and the latter 20 14' Sep!t7c^t
more Wefterly than the ifland of Fernando de Noronha, the -*—
fituation of which was pretty well determined during my late voyage *. Hence I concluded that we could not now be farther from the continent than twenty or thirty leagues at moft; and perhaps not much lefs, as we neither had foundings, nor any other figns of land. Dr. Halley, however, in his voyage, publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple, tells us f, that he made no more than one hundred and tivo miles, meridian diflance, from the if and [Fernando de Noronha] to the coafl of Brafil j and feems to think that currents could not be the whole caufe of his making fo little. But I rather think that he was miftaken, and that the currents had hurried him far to the Weftward of his intended courfe. This was, in fome meafure, confirmed by our own obfervations ; for we had found, during three or four days preceding the 8th, that the currents fet to the Weftward; and, during the laft twenty-four hours, it had fet ftrong to the Northward, as we experienced a difference of twenty-nine miles between our obferved latitude and that by dead reckoning. Upon the whole, till fome better aftronomical obfcrvations are made on more on the Eaftern coaft of Brafil, I fhall conclude that its longitude is thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-fix degrees Weft, at moft.
We proceeded on our voyage, without meeting with any oaober. thing of note, till the 6th of October.   Being then in the Sunday 6. latitude of 350 if South, longitude 70 45' Weft, we met with light airs and calms by turns, for three days fucceflively. We had, for fome days before, feen albatroffes, pintadoes, and other petrels; and here we law three penguins, which
* See Cook's Voyage, Vol. II. p. 278. f P. 11.
F 2
occafioncd
outer    occafioned us to found; but wc found no ground with a line
i----' of one hundred and fifty fathoms.   We put a boat in the
water, and fliot a few birds; one of which was a black petrel, about the ftze of a crow, and, except as to the bill and feet, very like one. It had a few white feathers under the throat; and the under-fide of the quill-feathers were of an afh-colour. All the other feathers were jet black, as alfo the bill and legs.
TuefdayS. On the 8th, in the evening, one of thofe birds which failors call noddies, fettled on eur rigging, and was caught. It was fomething larger than an Englifh black-bird, and nearly as black, except the upper part of the head, which was white, looking as if it were powdered; the whitefl feathers growing out from the bafe of the upper bill, from which they gradually affirmed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white fliadc was loft in the black, without being divided by any line. It was web-footed; had black legs and a black bill, which was long, and not unlike that of a curlew. It is faid thefe birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the ftation we were in, than Gough's or Richmond Ifland, from which our diflancc could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. But it muft be obferved that the Atlantic Ocean, to the Southward of this latitude, has been but little frequented; fo that there may be more iflands'there than we are acquainted with.
We frequently, in the night, faw thofe luminous marine animals mentioned and defcribed in my firft voyage * Some of them feemed to be confiderably larger than any I
* Sec Hawkcfworth's Collection of Voyages, Vol. II. p. 15*
had
had before met with j and fometimes they were fo numc- 0'^^. rous, that hundreds were viable at the fame moment. s——»
This calm weather was fuccecdcd by a frefh gale from the North Weft, which faffed two days. Then we had again variable light airs for about twenty-four hours; when the North Weft wind returned, and blew with fuch ftrength, that on the 17th we had fight of the Cape of Good Hope ; Thurify 17. and the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms Friday is. water, with the church bearing South Weft i South, and Green Point North Weft £ Weft.
As foon as we had received the ufual vifit from the Mafter Attendant and the Surgeon, I fent an officer to wait on Baron Plettenbcrg, the Governor; and, on his return, fainted the garrifbn with thirteen guns, which compliment was returned with the fame number.
We found in the bay two French Eaft India Ships; the one outward, and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, another homeward bound Ihip of the fame nation had parted from her cable, and been driven on more at the head of the bay, where (lie was loft. The crew were faved; but the greatefl part of the cargo fharcd the fame fate with the fhip, or (which amounted to the fame) was plundered and ftolen by the inhabitants, either out of the fhip, or as it was driven or carried on more. This is the account the French officers gave to m<;; and the Dutch themfelves could not deny the fact. Bur, by way of excufing themfelves from being guilty of a crime difgraceful to every civilized ftate, they endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in time for a guard.
As
Jl7$;.       As foon as we had faluted, I went on more, accompanied
October. t r
v~—' by fome of my officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieutenant Governor, the Fifcal, and the Commander of the troops. Thefe gentlemen received me with the greatefl civility ; and the Governor, in particular, promifed me every affiftance that the place afforded. At the fame time I obtained his leave to fet up our obfervatory on any fpot I fhould think mofl convenient; to pitch tents for the fail makers and coopers ; and to bring the cattle on fhore, to graze near our encampment. Before I returned on board, I ordered foft bread, frefh meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the fhip's company.
Tuefday 22. On the 22cl, we fet up the tents and obfervatory, and began to fend the feveral articles out of the fhip which I wanted on fhore. This could not be done fooner, as the militia of the place were cxercifing on, or near, the ground which we were to occupy.
WedneC 23. The next day, we began to obferve equal altitudes of the Sun, in order to afcertain the rate of the watch, or, which is the fame thing, to find whether it had altered its rate. Thefe obfervations were continued every day, whenever tire weather would permit, till the time of our departure drew near. But before this, the caulkers had been fet to work to caulk the fhip; and I had concerted meafures with Meffrs. Brandt and Chiron, for fupplying both fhips with fuch provifions as I fhould want. Bakers, likewife, had been ordered, immediately after our arrival, to bake fuch a quantity of bread as I thought would be requifite. s faff as the feveral articles deflined for the Refolution were got ready, they were carried on board.
3
On
On the 26th, the French fhip failed for Europe, and by 0^*r
her, we fent letters to England.   The next day, the Hamp- --'
mire Eaft India fhip, from Bencoolen, anchored in the bay, SwSay a/. ' and faluted us with thirteen guns, which we returned with eleven.
Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31ft, Thurfday3i. when it came on to blow exceftively hard at South Eaft, and continued for three days; during which time there was no communication between the fhip and the fhore.   The Refolution was the only fhip in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors.   We felt its effects as fenfi-bly on fhore.   Our tents and obfervatory were torn to pieces; and our aftronomical quadrant narrowly efcaped irreparable November damage.   On the 3d of November the ftorm ceafed, and the Sunday 3. next day we renamed our different employments.
On the 6th, the Flampfhire India fhip failed for England. Wednef. 6. In her I fent home an invalid, whom Captain Trimble was fo obliging as to receive on board. I was afterwards forry that I had not availed myfelf of this opportunity to part with two or three more of my crew, who were troubled with different complaints; but, at this time, there was fome hope of their health being re-eftablifhcd.
In the morning of the 10th, the Difcovery arrived in the Sunday 10. bay. Captain Clerke informed me that he had failed from Plymouth on the ill of Auguft, and fhould have been with us here a week fooncr, if the late gale of wind had not blown him off the coaft. Upon the whole, he was feven days longer in his paffage from England than wc had been. He had the misfortune to lofe one of his marines, by falling over board ; but there had been no other mortality amongfl his people, and they now arrived well and healthy.
Captain
T77<\-        Captain Clerke having reprcfcnted to me that his (hip was
November.
<—* in want of caulking; that no time might be loft in repair-Monday u. ing this defect, next day I fent all my workmen on board her, having already completed this fervice on board the Refolution. I lent every other afliflance to the Captain to expedite his fupply of provifions and water, having given him an order to receive on board as much of both articles as he could conveniently ftow. I now found that the bakers had failed in baking the bread 1 had ordered for the Difcovery. Thev pretended a want of flour; but the truth was, they were doubtful of her coming, and did not care to begin, till they faw her at anchor in the bay.
I have before made mention of our getting our cattle on more. The bull and two cows, with their calves, were fent to graze along with fome other cattle; but I was advifed to keep our fheep, fixtcen in number, clofe to our tents, where they were penned up every night. During the night preced-Tiiurfdayi4. ing the 14th, fome dogs having got in amongfl them, forced them out of the pen, killing four, and difpcrfing the reft. Six of them were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and two of the fineft ewes in the whole flock, were amongfl thofe miffing. Baron Plettenberg being now in the country, I applied to the Lieutenant Governor, Mr. Hemmy, and to the Fifcal. Both thefe Gentlemen promifed to ufe their endeavours for the recovery of the loft fheep. The Dutch, we know, boaft that the police at the Cape is fo carefully executed, that it is hardly poflible for a flave, with all his cunning and knowledge of th country, to effectuate his efcape. Yet my fheep evaded all the vigilance of the Fifcal's officers and people. However, after much trouble and ex-pence, by employing fome of the meaneft and loweft fcoun-drels in the place (who, to ufe the phrafe of the perfon who 8 recommended
recommended this method to me, would, for a ducatoon, cut their mailer's throat, burn the houfe over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the afh.es), I recovered them all but the two ewes. Of thefe I never could hear the leafl tidings ; and I gave over all enquiry after them, when I was told, that fince I had got the two rams, I might think myfelf very well off. One of thefe, however, was fo much hurt by the dogs, that there was reafon to believe he would never recover.
Mr. Hemmy very obligingly offered to make up this lofs, by giving me a Spanifli ram, out of fome that he had fent for from Lifbon. Cut I declined the offer, under a perfua-fion that it would anfwer my purpofe full as well, to take with me fome of the Cape rams: the event proved, that I was under a miflake. This Gentleman has taken fome pains to introduce European fheep at the Cape ; but his endeavours, as he told me, have been fruflrated by the obfli-nacy of the country people, who hold their own breed in greater eflimation, on account of their large tails, of the fat of which they fometimes make more money than of the whole carcafs befides *; and think that the wool of European fheep will, by no means, make up for their deficiency in this refpecl. Indeed, I have heard fome fcnfiblc men here make the fame obfervation. And there feems to be foundation for it.   For, admitting that European fheep were
* " The moft remarkable thing in the Cape (beep, is the length and thicknefs of their tails, which weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. The fat is not fo tallowifh as that of European mutton, and the poorer fort ufe it for butter." Roller? s Cape of Good Hope [Englfjfh tranflatioa], Vol. II. p. 65. De la Caille, who finds every thing; wrong in Kolben, faya, the weight of the tails of the Cape fheep is not above five or fix pounds. Voyage de la Caille, p. 343. If the information given to Captain Cook may be depended upon, it will prove that, in this inftance at leaft, Kolben is unjuftly accufed of exaggeration.
Vol. I. G to
November to Proc*ucc wo°l oi the fame quality here as in Europe, —ir—* which experience has fhewn not to be the cafe, the Dutch have not hands, at the Cape of Good Hope, to fpare for the manufacturing even their own clothing. It is certain that, were it not for the continual importation of Haves, this fet-dement would be thinner of people than any other inhabited part of the world.
While the fhips were getting ready for the profecution of our voyage, fome of our officers made an excurfion to take a view of the neighbouring country. Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who was one of the party, gave me the following relation of their proceedings *
Saturday 16.    " On the 16th, in the forenoon, I fet out in a waggon,.
with five more, to take a view of fome part of the country. We croflcd the large plain that lies to the Eaftward of the town, which is entirely a white fand, like that commonly found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other fmall plants of various forts.   At five in the afternoon we paffed a large farm-houfe, with fome corn-fields, and pretty, confidcrable vineyards, fituated beyond the plain, near the foot of fome low hills, where the foil becomes worth culti--vating.   Between fix and feven we arrived at Stellcnbofh,. the colony next to that of the Cape for its importance.
The village does not confift of more than thirty houfes, and ftands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains,
* In the Philosophical Tranfa&ions, Vol. lxvi. p. 268^319, is an Account of Three Journies from the CapeTown into the Southern Parts of Africa, in 1772, I773>and 1774 j by Mr. Francis Maflbn, who had been fent from England for the difcovery of new plants, towards the improvement of the Royal Botanical Garden at Kew. Much curious information is contained in Mr. Maflbn's account of thefe journies. M. de Pages, who was at the Gape in 1773, gives fome remarks on the ftate of that fettle-ment, and alfo the particulars of his journey from Falfe Bay to the Cape Town. Voyage vers le Pole du Sucl, p. 17 to 32.
above
above twenty miles to the Eaftward of the Cape Town.  The wS&tt
houfes are neat; and, with the advantage of a rivulet which v—~j
runs near, and the fhelter of fome large oaks, planted at its
firfl fettling, forms what may be called a rural prof peel: in
this defert country.   There are fome vineyards and orchards
about the place, which, from their thriving appearance,
feem to indicate an excellent foil; though, perhaps, they
owe much to climate, as the air here has an uncommon
ferenity,
I employed the next day in fearching for plants and in- Sunday 17, feels about Stcllcnbofh, but had little fuccefs. Few plants are in flower here at this feafon, and infects but fcarce. I examined the foil in feveral places, and found it to confifl of ycllowifh clay, mixed with a good deal of fand. The fides of the low hills, which appear brown, feem to be con-ftitutcd of a fort of Hone marie.
We left Stcllcnbofh next morning, and foon arrived at the Monday is. houfe we had paffed on Saturday; the owner of which, Mr. Clocder, had fent us an invitation, the evening before, to vifit him. This Gentleman entertained us with the greatefl hofpitality, and in a manner very different from what we expected. He received us with mufic; and a band alfo played while we were at dinner; which, confidering the fituation of the place, might be reckoned elegant. He fhewed us his wine cellars, his orchards, and vineyards; all which, I muft own, infpircd me with a with to know in what manner thefe induflrious people could create fuch plenty, in a fpot where, I believe, no other European nation would have attempted to fettle.
In the afternoon we croffed the country, and paffed a few plantations, one of which feemed very confiderable, and was
G 2 laid
'776.     laid out in a tafte fomewhat different from any other we
November. . , r A , .
> faw.   In the evening we arrived at a rarm-houle, which is
the firfl: in the cultivated tract called the Pearl. We had, at the fame time, a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of this country, which lies along by the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and contains feveral farms or plantations, not very extenfive.
Tucfday 19. I went, on the 19th in the forenoon, in qucft of plants and infects, which I found almoft as fcarce as at Stellen-bofh; but I met with more fhrubs or fmall trees, naturally produced, in the valleys, than in any part of the country I had hitherto feen.
In the afternoon, we went to fee a Hone of a remarkable fize, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, cr the Pearl Diamond *. It lies, or Hands, upon the top of fome low hills, at the foot of which our farm-houfe was fituated j and though the road to it is neither very fleep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to ir It is of an oblong fhapc, rounded on the top, and lies nearly South and North.   The Eafl and Weft fides are ftcep, and al-
* In the Philofophical Tranfacf ions, Vol. lxviii. Part I. p. 102. we have a Letter from Mr. Anderfon to Sir John Pringle, defcribing this remarkable ftone. The account fent home from the Cape, and read before the Royal Society, is much the fam® with that now publifhed, but rather fuller. In particular, he tells Sir John, that he went to fee it at Mr. Maffon's defire, who, probably,, had not had an opportunity of fufficiently examining it himfelf. In the account of his journies, above referred to, j>. 270, he only fays, " there are two large folid rocks on the Perel Berg, each of which (he believes) Is more than a mile in circumference at the bafe, and upwards cf two hundred feet high. Their furf aces are nearly fmooth, without chink or fiffures ; and they are found to be a fpecits of granite, different from that which compofes the neighbouring ?nountains;'*'
Mr. Anderfon having, with his Letter to Sir John Pringle, alfo fent home a fpe-cimen of the rock, it was examined by Sir William Hamilton, whofe opinion is, that ** this fingidar, immenfe fragment cf granite, mofl probably has been raifed by a volcanic txphfon, or fome fuch caufe." See his Letter to Sir John Pringle,. annexed to Mr. An y derfon's, in the Philofophical Tranfactions.
4 moll
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 4 moll perpendicular. The South end is likewife fleep, and its
1     r * November.
greatefl height is there; from whence it declines gently to «-*-*
the North part, by which we afcendcd to its top, and had an extenfive view of the whole country.
Its circumference, I think, muff be at leafl half a mile; as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the bad road, and flopping a little. At its highcfl. part, which is the South end, comparing it with a known object, it feems to equal the dome of St. Paul's church.   It is one uninterrupted mafs or flone, if we except fome fiffures, or rather impreflions, not above three or four feet deep, and a vein which runs acrofs near its North end. It is of that fort of flone called, by Mineralogifls, Saxuin conglutinatum, and confifls chiefly of pieces of coarfc quartz and glimmer, held together by a clayey cement.   But the vein which croffes it, though of the fame materials, is much comparer.   This vein is not above a foot broad or thick; and its furface is cut into little fqnares or oblongs, difpofcd obliquely, which makes it look like the remains of fome artificial work.   But I could not obferve whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only fuperficial. In descending, we found at its foot a very rich black mould; and on the fides of the hills, fome trees of a confiderable fize, natives of the place, which are a fpecies of olea %.
In
• It is flrange that neither Kolben nor de la Caille fhould have thought the Tkver cf Babylon worthy of a particular defcription. The former [Vol.11, p. 52,53, Eng-lifh Tranflation] only mentions it as a high mountain. . The latter contents himfelf with telling us, that it is a very low hillock, un tret bas Tnonticule. Voyage de la Caille, p. 34.1. We are much obliged to Mr. Anderfon for his very accurate account of this remarkable rock, which agrees with Mr. Sonncrat's, who was at the Cape of Good liope fo late as 1781. His words are, " La Montague de la Perle, merite d'etre ob~ u fervee.   C'efl un des plus hautes.dcs environs du Cap.   Elle n'eit compofee que
44 d'uu
Wednef. 20.
T '776-        In the morning on the 20th, we fet ont from the Pearl;
November. t °
and going a different road from that by which we came, paffed through a country wholly uncultivated, till we got to the Tyger hills, when fome tolerable corn-fields appeared. At noon, we flopped in a hollow for refreflimcnt; but, in walking about here, were plagued with a vaft number of mufquitoes or fand flies, which were the firft I faw in the country. In the afternoon we fet out again, and in the ■ evening arrived at the Cape Town, tired with the jolting waggon."
Saturday23.     On the 23d, we got on board the obfervatory, clock, &c.
By a mean of the feveral refulcs of the equal altitudes of the Sun, taken with the aftronomical quadrant, the aftrono-mical clock was found to lofe on fidereal time, i' 8",368 each day. The pendulum was kept at the fame length as at Greenwich, where the daily lofs of the clock on fidereal time, was 4".
The watch, by the mean of the remits of fifteen days obfervations, was found to be lofing »*a6i, on mean time, each day, which is i",c>52 more than at Greenwich: and on the 21ft, at noon, fhe was too flow for mean time by 1". 20' 57",66. From this, 6' 48",05'6, is to be fubftracled, for what fhe was too flow on the jith of June at Greenwich, and her daily rate fince; and the remainder, viz, 1 \ 14'. o8",704, or 180 33' io", will be the longitude of t"be Cape Town by the watch. Its true longitude, as found by Meffrs. Mafon and Dixon, is
" d'un feul bloc de granit crevafTc dans pkifieurs endroits." Voyage aux Indesy Tom. II. p. 91.
Mr. Sonnerat tells us, that Mr. Gordon, Commander of the troops at the Cape, had lately made three journies up the country, from which, when he publifhcs his Tournal, we may expecf much curious information,
8 j8°
i8° 23' 1 c7.   As our obfervations were made about half a *776*
*     J November.
mile to the Eafl of theirs, the error of the watch, in longi- «-,—-»
tude, is no more than 8' 25". Hence we have reafon to conclude, that fhe had gone well all the way from England, and that the longitude, thus given, may be nearer the truth than any other.
If this be admitted, it will, in a great meafure, enable me to find the direction and ftrength of the currents we met
•
with on this paffage from England. For, by comparing the latitude and longitude by dead reckoning, with thofe by obfervation and the watch, we mail, from time to time, have, very accurately, the error of the fhip's reckoning, be the caufe what it will. But as all imaginable care was taken in heaving and keeping the log, and every neceffary allowance made for lee-way, heave of the fea, and other fuch circumftances, I cannot attribute thofe errors that did happen, to any other caufe but currents; but more particularly when the error was conftantly the fame way, for feveral days iuccc {lively.
On the contrary, if we find the fhip a-head of. the reckoning on one day, and a-ftern of it on another, we have reafon to believe that fuch errors are owing to accidental eaufes, and not to currents. This feems to have been the cafe in our paffage between England and Teneriffe. But, from the time of our leaving that ifland, till the 15th of Auguft, being then in the latitude of 12° North, and longitude 24° Weft, the fhip was carried i° 20' of longitude to the Weftward of her reckoning. At this ftation, the currents took a contrary direction, and fet to Eaft South Eaft, at the rate of twelve or fourteen miles a day, or twenty-four hours, till we arrived into the latitude of f North, and longitude of 200 Weft; which was our moft Eafterly fituation
1776.     tion after leavine the Cape de Verde Iflands, till we get to
November, 0 1 0
u—v--' the Southward. For in this fituation the wind came Southerly, and we tacked and ftretched to the Weftward; and, for two or three days, could not find that our reckoning was affected by any current. So that, I judged, we were between the current that generally, if not conftantly, fets to the Eaft upon the coaft of Guinea, and that which fets to the Weft towards the coaft of Brafil.
•
This Wefterly current was not confulerable till we got into 20 North, and us° Weft. From this nation, to 30 South and 300 Weft, the fhip, in the fpace of four days, was carried one hundred and fifteen miles in the direction of South Weft by Weft, beyond her reckoning ; an error by far too great to have any other caufe but a flrong current running in the fame direction. Nor did its ftrength abate here ; but its courfe was, afterward, more Wefterly, and to the North of Weft; and off Cape Auguftine, North, as I have already mentioned. But this Northerly current did not exift at twenty or thirty leagues to the Southward of that Cape; nor any other, that I could perceive, in the remaining part of the paffage. The little difference we afterward found between the reckoning and obfervations, might very well happen without the afliftance of currents; as will appear by the Table of Days Works.
In the account of my laft voyage *, I remarked, that the currents one meets with in this paffage generally balance each other. It happened fo then ; becaufe we crolled the line about 200 more to the Eaftward than we did now ; fo that we were, of confequencc, longer under the influence of the Eafterly current, which made up for the Wefterly one.
* Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. I. p. 14.
And
And this, I apprehend, will generally be the cafe, if you «77&
* 0 ' November,
crofs the line io° or 150 to the Eaft of the meridian of St. v_-*— Jago.
From thefe remarks I fhall draw the following concluflon, That, after palling the Cape de Verde Ifland,.if you do not make above 40 or 50 Eafling, and crofs the line in, or to the Weftward of, the meridian of St. Jago, you may expect: to find your fhip 30 or 40 to the Weftward of her reckoning, by the time you get into the latitude of io° South. If, on the other hand, you keep well to the Eaft, and crofs the line 150 or 200 to the Eaft of St. Jago, you will be then as much to the Eaft of your reckoning; and the more you keep to the Eaftward, the greater will be your error; as has been experienced by fome India fhips, whofe people have found themfelves clofc upon the coaft of Angola, when they thought its diftance was above two hundred leagues.
During the whole of our paffage from England, no opportunity was omitted of obferving, witli all the attention and accuracy that circumftances would permit, the variation of the compafs, which I have inferted in a Table, with the latitude and longitude of the fhip at the time of obfervation. As the longitude may be depended upon, to a quarter or half a degree at moft, this Table will be of ufe to thofe navigators who correct their reckoning by the variation. It will alfo enable Mr. Dun to correct his new Variation Chart, a thing very much wanted.
It fcems ftrange to me, that the advocates for the variation fhould not agree amongfl themfelves. We find one *of them telling us, as I have already obferved, that with 8°'Weft variation^ or any thing above that, you may venture to fail by the
* Nichelfon,
Vol. I. H Cape
N177r'ber ^e ^er^e lflands, by night or day, being well ajfurcd, with that
v j * variation, that you are to the Eajlivard oj them. Another, in his Chart lays down this variation ninety leagues to the Weftward of them. Such a difagreement as this, is a ftrong proof of the uncertainty of both. However, I have no doubt, the former found here, as well as in other places, the variation he mentions. But he ihould have confidered, that at fea, nay even on land, the refults of the moft accurate obfervations will not always be the fame. Different compaffes will give different variations ; and even the fame compafs will differ from itfelf two degrees, without our being able to difcover, much lefs to remove, the caufe.
Whoever imagines he can find the variation within a degree, will very often fee himfelf much deceived. For, befides the imperfection which may be in the conftruction of the inflrument, or in the power of the needle, it is certain that the motion of the fhip, or attraction of the ironwork, or fome other caufe not yet difcovered, will frequently occafion far greater errors than this. That the variation may be found, with a fhare of accuracy more than fufficient to determine the fhip's courfe, is allowed; but that it can be found fo exactly as to fix the longitude within a degree, or fixty miles, I abfolutely deny.
* Mr. Dun.
C H A p.
				
				
CHAP. IV.
The two Ships leave the Cape of Good Hope.—Two Iflands, named Prince Edward's, feen, and their Appearance defcribed. — Kergueleris Land vifited.—Arrival in Chrifimas IIarbour.—Occurrences there. —Defcription of it.
AFTER the difafter which happened to our fheep, it ,776. l\ may be well fuppofed I did not truft thofe that re- ,Nov_c^ mained, long on fhore ; but got them, and the other cattle, on board as faft as poflible. I alfo added to my original ftock, by purchafing two young bulls, two heifers, two young ftone-horfes, two mares, two rams, feveral ewes and goats, and fome rabbits and poultry. All of them were intended for New Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring iflands, or any other places, in the courfe of our voyage, where there might be a profpect that the leaving any of them would be ufeful to pofterity.
Towards the latter end of November, the caulkers had finifhcd their work on board the Difcovery, and fhe had received all her prov ifiGns and water. Of the former, both fhips had a fupply fufficient for two years and upwards. And every other article we could think of, neceffary for fuch a voyage, that could be had at the Cape, was procured; neither knowing when, nor where, we might come to a place where we could furnifh ourfelves fo well.
II 2 Having
I776-       Having given Captain Gierke a copy of my inflructions
November. © ° * r' . ' £
-, and an order directing him now to proceed in cafe or fepa-
Saturday 30. ration; in the morning of the 30th, we repaired on board.
At five in the afternoon a breeze fprung up at South Eafl, with which we weighed, and flood out of the bay. At nine it fell calm, and we anchored between Penguin Ifland and the Eafl fhore, where we lay till three o'clock next morning. We then weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze at South; but did not get clear of the land till the morning of the 3d, when, with a frefh gale at Weft North Weft, we flood to the South Eaft, to get more into the way of thefe winds.
December. Sunday i.
Tuefday 3.
Thurfday5.
Friday 6.
Tlwrfdayiz.
On the 5th, a fudden fquall of wind carried away the Refolution's mizen top-maft. Having another to replace it, the lofs was not felt; efpecially as it was a bad flick, and. had often complained. On the 6th, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 390 14.' South, and in the longitude of 230 56' Eaft, we paffed through feveral fmall fpots of water of a reddifh colour. Some of this was taken up; and it was found to abound with a fmall animal, which the micro-fcope difcovered to be like a cray-flfh, of a reddifh hue.
We continued our courfe to the South Eaft, with a very flrong gale from the Weftward, followed by a mountainous fea; which made the fhip roll and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of trouble to preferve the cattle we had on board. Notwithftanding all our care, feveral goats, efpecially the males, died; and fome fheep. This misfortune was, in a great meafure, owing to the cold, which we now. began moft fenfibly to feel.
On the 12th, at noon, we faw land extending from South. Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft.   Upon a nearer ap-4 proach,
proach, we found it to be two iflands. That which lies moft to the South, and is alfo the largcft, I judged to be about fifteen leagues in circuit; and to be in the latitude of 46° 53' South, and in the longitude of 370 46' Eaft. The moft Northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and lies in the latitude of 460 40' South, and in 380 8' Eaft longitude. The diftance from the one to the other is about five leagues.
We paffed through this channel, at equal diftance from both iflands; and could not difcover, with the afliftance of our beft glaffes, either tree or fhrub on either of them. They feemed to have a rocky and bold fhore ; and, excepting the South Eaft parts, where the land is rather low and flat, a furface compofed of barren mountains, which rife to* a confiderable height, and whofe fummits and fides were covered with mow, which in many places feemed to be of a confiderable depth. The South Eaft parts had a much greater quantity on them than the reft; owing, probably, to the Sun acting for a lefs fpace of time on thefe than on' the North and North Weft parts. The ground, where it was not hid by the fnow, from the various fhades it exhibited, may be fuppofed to be covered with mofs, or, perhaps, fuch a coarfe grafs as is found in fome parts of Falkland's Iflands. On the North fide of each of the iflands is a detached rock: that near the South ifland is fhaped like a tower, and feemed to be at fome diftance from the fhore. As we paffed along, a quantity of fea-weed was feen, and the colour of the water indicated foundings. But there was no appearance of an inlet, unlefs near the rock juft mentioned ; and that, from its fmallnefs, did not promife a good anchoring-place.
Thefe
Thefe two iflands, as alfo four others which lie from nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to the Eaft, and nearly in the fame latitude, were difcovered, as I have mentioned in my late Voyage *, by Captains Marion du Frefne, and Crozet, French Navigators, in January 1772, on their paffage in two ihips from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Iflands. As they have no names in the French chart of the Southern hemifphere, which Captain Crozet communicated to me in 1775 t» I fhall diftinguifh the two we now faw, by calling them Prince Edward's Iflands, after his Majefty's fourth fon; and the other four, by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Iflands, to commemorate their difcovcrcis.
We had now, for the moft part, ftrong gales between the North and Weft, and but very indifferent weather; noc better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the very depth of Winter, though it was now the middle of Summer in this hemifphere. Not difcouraged, however, by this, after leaving Prince Edward's Iflands, I fhaped our courfe to pafs to the Southward of the others, that I might get into the latitude of the land difcovered by Monfieur de Kerguelen.
I had applied to the Chevalier de Borda, whom, as I have mentioned, I found at Teneriffe, requeuing, that if he knew any thing of the ifland difcovered by Monfieur de Kerguelen, between the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland, he
* Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 266. Thefe iflands are there fqid to be in the latitude of 480 South ; that is, two degrees farther South, than what here appears to be their real pofition.
t See Cook's Voyage, as above. Dr. Forfler, in his obfervations made during that voyage, p. 30, gives us this defcription of the Chart then communicated by Monfieur Crozet: that it was publified under the patronage of the Duke de Crcye, by Robert de Vaugondy. Captain Cook tells us lower in this Chapter, that it was publifhed in ^773- 5
would
would be fo obliging as to communicate it to me. Accordingly, juft before we failed from Santa Cruz bay, he fent me the following account of it, viz. " That the Pilot of the " Bouflblc, who was in the voyage with Monfieur dc Ker-" guelen, had given him the latitude and longitude of a " little ifland, which Monfieur de Kcrguclen called the " Ifle of Rendezvous, and which lies not far from the great ifland which he faw. Latitude of the little ifle, by " feven obfcrvations, 40*26' South; longitude, by feven ob-" fervations of the diftance of the Sun and Moon, 640 57' " Eafl from Paris." I was very forry I had not fooner known that there was on board the frigate at Teneriffe, an officer who had been with Monfieur de Kerguelcn, efpecially the Pilot; becaufe from him I might have obtained more in-tcrcfling information about this land than the fituation alone, of which I was not before entirely ignorant*.
My
* Captain Cook's proceedings, as related in the remaining part of this Chapter, and in the next, being upon a coaft newly difcovered by the French, it could not but be an object of his attention to trace the footfteps of the original explorers. But no fuperiority of profeffional lkil1r nor diligence in exerting it, could poffibly qualify him to do this fuccefsfully, without pofTeffing, at the fame time, full and authentic intelligence of all that had been performed here by his predecefTors in the difcovery. But that he was not fo fortunate as to be thus fufficiently initruclcd, will appear from the following facts, which the Reader is requcfted to attend to, before he proceeds to the peruial of this part of the Journal.
How very little was known, with any precifion, about the operations of Kerguelcn, vvhen Captain Cook failed in 1776, may be inferred from the following paragraph of his Inflructions : " You arc to proceed in fearch of fome iflands faid to have been lately " feen by the French in the latitude of 480 South, and in the meridian of Mauri-ct tins (a)." This was, barely, the amount of the very indefinite and imperfect information, which Captain Cook himfelf had received from Baron Plettenberg at the Cape of Good Hope, in November 1772 (b) -t in the beginning of which year Ker~ guekn's frfl voyage had taken place.
1776. December.
(.') Sec the Inftniclions ii) the Introduction. (A) Sec Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol, i, p. 16-
The
i77rt-        My inflruc"Hons dircctinc: me to examine it, with a view
■December. J CT
w-v——* to difcover a good harbour, I proceeded in the fearch j and
on
The Captain, on his return homeward, in March 1775* heard, a fecond time, fomething about this French difcovery at the Cape, where he met with Monfieur Crozet, who very obligingly communicated to him a Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, wherein ivere delineated not only his own difcoveries, but alfo that of Captain Kcrguelen (a). But what little information that Chart could convey, was flill neceffarily confined to the operations of the firft voyage j the Chart here referred to, having been publifhed in France in 1773 ; that is, before any intelligence could poffibly be conveyed from the Southern Hemifphere of the refult of Kerguelen's fecond vifit to this new land j which, we now know, happened towards the clofe of the fame year.
Of thefe latter operations, the only account (if that can be called an account, which conveys no particular information) received by Captain Cook from Monfieur Crozet, was, that a later Voyage had been undertaken by the French, under the command of Captain Kcrguelen, which had ended much to the difgrace of that commander (b).
What Crozet had not communicated to our Author, and what we are fure, from a variety of circumftances, he had never heard of from any other quarter, he miffed an opportunity of learning at Teneriffe. He expreflcs his being forry, as we havejuffc read, that he did not know fooner that there was on board the frigate an officer who had been with Kerguelcn, as he might have obtained from him more Interejllng information about this land, than its fituation. And, indeed, if he had converfed with that officer, he might have obtained information more interejllng than he was aware of; he might have learnt that Kerguelcn had actually vifited this Southern land a fecond time, and that the little ifle of which he then received the name and pofition from the Chevalier de Borda, was a difcovery of this later voyage. But the account conveyed to him being, as the Reader will obferve, unaccompanied with any date, or other diflinguifhing cir-cumflance, he-left Teneriffe, and arrived on the coafts of Kerguelen's Land, under a full perfuafion that it had been vifited only once before. And even, with regard to the operations of that firfl voyage, he had nothing to guide him, but the very fcanty materials afforded to him by Baron Plettenberg and Monfieur Crozet.
The.truth is, the French feem, for fome reafon or other, not furely founded on the ■importance of Kerguelen's difcovery, to have bcqn very fhy of publifhing a full and diftinct account of it. No fuch account had been publifhed while Captain Cook lived. Nay, even after the return of his fhips in 1780, the Gentleman who obligingly lent his affiftance to give a view of the prior obfcrvations of the French, and to connect them on the fame Chart with thofe of our Author, though his affiduity in procuring geographical information can be equalled only by his readinefs in communicating it, had not, it fhould feem, been able to procure any materials for that purpofe, but
(u) See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. z66, (/>) Ibid. p. 268.
fuch
on the 16th, being then in the latitude of 480 as', and in the w '776.
0 T December
longitude of 520 Eafl, we faw penguins and divers, and--,—-
rock-weed floating in the fea. We continued to meet with °" ay more or lefs of thefe every day, as we proceeded to the Eaftward; and on the 21ft, in the latitude of 48° 27' South, and Saturda>'2* in the longitude of 65° Eaft, a very large feal was feen. We had now much foggy weather, and, as we expected to fall in with the land every hour, our navigation became both tedious and dangerous.
At length, on the 24th, at fix o'clock in the morning, as Tuefday 24 we were fleering to the Eaftward, the fog clearing away a little, we faw land *, bearing South South Eaft, which,
upon
fuch as mark the operations of the firft French voyage j and even for thefe, he was indebted to a MS. drawing.
But this veil of un neceffary fecrecy is at length drawn afide. Kerguelcn himfelf lias, very lately, publifhed the Journal of his proceedings in two fuccefHve voyages, in the years 1772 and 1773 ; and has annexed to his Narrative a Chart of the coafts of this land, as far as he had explored them in both voyages. Monfieur de Pages, aifo, much about the fame time, favoured us with another account of the fecond voyage, in fome refpects fuller than Kerguelen's own, on board whofe fhip he was then an officer.
From thefe fources of authentic information, we are enabled to draw every nc-cehary material to correct what is erroneous, and to illuftrate what, otherwife, would have remained obfeure, in this part of Captain Cook's Journal. We fhall take occa-fion to do this in feparate Notes on the paflagcs as they occur, and conclude this tedious, but, it is hoped, not unneceflary, detail of facts, with one general remark, fully expreffive of the difadvantages our Author laboured under. He never faw that part of the coaft upon which the French had been in 1772 ; and he never knew that they had been upon another part of it in 1773, which was the very fcene of his own operations. Consequently, what he knew of the former voyage, as delineated upon Crozet's Chart, only ferved to perplex and miflcad his judgment; and his total igno-rr.iice of the latter, put it out of his power to compare his own obfervations with thofe then made by Kerguelcn; though we, who arc betterinftructed, can do this, by tracing the plained marks of coincidence and agreement. ,
* Captain Cook was not the original difcovcrcr of thefe fmall iflands which he now fell ill with. It is certain that they had been feen and named by Kerguelcn, on his fecond voyage, in December 1773.   Their pofition, relatively to each other, and
Vol. I. 1 10
PecembT   lIPon a nearer approach, we found to be an ifland of confi-
<-—t derable height, and about three leagues in circuit *. Soon
after, we faw another of the fame magnitude, one league to the Eaftward-f*; and between thefe two, in the direction* of South Eaft, fome fmaller ones %* In the direction of South by Eaft i Eaft, from the Eaft end of the firft ifland, a third § high ifland was feen. At times, as the fog broke away, we had the appearance of land over the fmall iflands; and I had thoughts of fleering for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, I found this would be a dangerous attempt, while the weather continued foggy. For if there mould be no paffage, or if we mould meet with any fudden danger, it would have been impoffible for us to get off; the wind being right a-ftern, and a prodigious fea running, that broke on all the fhorcs in a frightful furf. At the fame time, feeing another ifland in the North Eaft direction, and not knowing but that there might be more, I judged it prudent to haul off, and wait for clearer weather, left we iliould get intanglcd amongft unknown lands in a thick fog.
We did but juft weather the ifland laft mentioned. It is a highround rock, which was named Bligh's Gap. Perhaps
to the adjoining coafts of the greater land, as rcprefented on the annexed Chart, bears a ftriking rcfemblance to Kerguelen's delineation of them; whofe Chart, however, the Public may be afTured, was unknown in England till after ours had been engraved.
* This is the ifle to which Kerguelcn gave the name of Cray or Crouy. Befides delineating it upon his Chart, he has added a particular view of it, exactly corre-fponding with Captain Cook's account of its being of confiderable height.
f Kerguelcn called this Ifle Rolland, after the name of his own fhip. There is alfo a particular view of it on the French Chart.
% The obfervations of the French and Englifh navigators agree exactly, as to the pofition of thefe fmaller ifles.
| The fituation of Kerguelen's Ifle de Clugny, as marked on his Chart, fhews it to be the third high ifland feen by Captain Cook.
this
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 59 this is the fame that Monfieur de Kerguelen called the Ifle  A w6-
„ ,       • 0 December.
or Rendezvous*; but I know nothing that can rendezvous \-
at it, but fowls of the air; for it is certainly inacceffible to every other animal.
At eleven o'clock the weather began to clear up, and we immediately tacked, and fleered in for the land. At noon, we had a pretty good obfervation, which enabled us to determine the latitude of Bligh's Cap, which is the northernmoft ifland, to be 4S0 29' South, and its longitude 68° 40' Eaft f. We paffed it at three o'clock, Handing to the South South Eaft, with a frefh gale at Weft.
Soon after we faw the land, of which we had a faint view in the morning; and at four o'clock it extended from South Eaft Eaft, to South Weft by South, diftant about four miles. The left extreme, which I judged to be the Northern point of this land called, in the French Chart of the Southern
* This ifle, or rock, was the Angle point about which Captain Cook had received the leaft information at Teneriffe ; and we may obferve how fagacious he was in tracing it. What he could only fpeak of as probable, a comparifon of his Chart with that lately publifhed by Kerguelcn, proves to be certain 5 and if he had even read and copied what his predccefTor in the difcovery fays of it, he could fcarcely have varied his account of its fhape. Kerguelen's words are, " Ijle de Reunion, qui n'eft qu'une «* Roche, nous fcrvoit de Rendezvous, ou de point de ralliement; & reffemble a un *' coin de mire."
f The French and Englifh agree very nearly (as might be expected) in their accounts of the latitude of this ifland; but the obfervations by which they fix its longitude, vary confidcrably.
The Pilot at Teneriffe made it only 64' 57' Eaft from Paris, which is about 670 if/ Eaft from London; or i° 24' more Wefterly than Captain Cook's obfervations fix it.
Monfieur de Pages fays it is 66° 47' Eaft from Paris, that is 690 6' Faft from London, or twenty-fix miles more Eafterly than it is placed by Captain Cook.
Kerguelcn himfelf only fays that it is about 68° of Eaft longitude, par 68° de longitude.
I 2 Hemifphere,
December.
■ccmber I fcniifphere, Cape St. Louis *, terminated in a perpendicular rock of a confiderable height and the right one (near which is a detached rock) in a high indented point |. From this point the coaft feemed to turn Iliort round to the Southward; for we could fee no land to the Weftward of the direction in which it now bore to us, but the iflands we had obferved in the morning; the moft Southerly J. of them lying nearly Weft from the point, about two or three leagues diftant.
About the middle of the land there appeared to be an inlet, for which we fleered; but, on approaching, found it was only a bending in the coaft, and therefore bore up, to go round Cape St. Louis §.   Soon after, land opened off the
* Hitherto, we have only had occafion to fupply defects, owing to Captain Cook's tut Ire ignorance of Kerguelen's fecond voyage in 1773; we mult now correct errors, owing to his very limited knowledge of the operations of the firft voyage in 1772,. The Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, his only guide, having given him, as he tells us, the name of Cape St. Louis (or Cape Louis) as the moft Northerly promontory then feen by the French ; and his own obfervations now fatisfying him that no part of the main land ftretched farther North than the left extreme now before him ; from this fuppofed fimilarity of fituation, he judged that his own pci-pcndicular rock muft be the Cape Louis of the firft difcovercrs. By looking upon our Chart, we fhall find Cape Louis lying upon a very different part of the coaft j and by comparing this Chart with that lately publifhed by Kerguelcn, it will appear, in the clcareft manner, that the Northern point now defcribed by Captain. Cook, is the very fame to. which the French have given the name of Cape Francois.
■\ This right extreme of the coaft, as it now (hewed itfelf to Captain Cook, feems to be what is rcprefenrcd on Kerguelen's Chart under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be proper to obferve here, that all that extent of coaft lying between Cape Louis and Cape Francois, of which the French faw very little during their firft vifit in 1772, and may be called the North Weft fide of this land, they had it in their power to trace the pofition of in 1773, and have affigned names to fome of its bays, rivers, and promontories, upon their Chart. % Kerguelen's Ifle de Clugny. § Cape Francois, as already obferved,
9 Cape,
Cape, in the direction of South 53° Eaft, and appeared to be a jjjj^ point at a confiderable diftance; for the trending of the coaft —*~» from the Tape was more Southerly.   We alfo faw feveral rocks and iflands to the Eaflward of the above directions, the moft diftant of which was about feven leagues from the Cape, bearing South 88c Eaft *.
We had no fooner got off the Cape, than we obferved the coaft, to the Southward, to be much indented by projecting points and bays; fo that we now made fure of foon finding a good harbour. Accordingly, we had not run a mile farther, before we difcovered one behind the Cape, into which we began to ply; but after making one board, it fell calm, and we anchored at the entrance in forty-five fathoms water, the bottom black fand ; as did the Difcovery foon after. 1 immediately difpatched Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, in a boat to found the harbour; who, on his return, reported it to be fafc and commodious, with good anchorage in every part; and great plenty of frefh water, feals, penguins, and other birds on the fhore; but not a flick of wood. While we lay at anchor, we obferved that the flood tide came from the South Eafl, running two knots, at leafl, in an hour.
At day-break, in the morning of the 25th, we weighed Wednef. zi with a gentle breeze at Weft; and having wrought into the harbour, to within a quarter of a mile of the fandy beach at its head, we anchored in eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark fand. The Difcovery did not get in till two o'clock in the afternoon; when Captain Gierke informed me, that he had narrowly cfcaped being driven on the South
* The obfervations of the French, round Cape- Francois, remarkably coincide with Captain Cook's in this paragraph j and the rocks and iflands here mentioned by . him, alfo appear upon their Chart. '
point
point of the harbour, his anchor having flarted before they had time to fhorten in the cable. This obliged them to fet fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up; and then they found one of its palms was broken off.
As foon as we had anchored, I ordered all the boats to be hoifled out; the fhip to be moored with a kedge anchor; and the water-calks to be got ready to fend on lhorc. In the mean time I landed, to look for the molt convenient fpot where they might be filled, and to fee what elfe the place afforded.
I found the fhore, in a manner, covered with penguins and other birds, and feals. Thefe latter were not numerous, but fo infenfible of fear (which plainly indicated that they were unaccuflomcd to fuch vifners), that we killed as many as we chofc, for the fake of their fat or blubber, to make oil for our lamps, and other ufes. Freih water was in no lef^s plenty than were birds; for every gully afforded a large ib earn. But not a fingle tree or fhrub, nor the leaft fign of any, was to be difcovered, and but very little herbage of any fort. The appearances, as we failed into the harbour, had flattered us with the hope of meeting with ibmething confiderable growing here, as we obferved the fides of many of the hills to be of a lively green. But I now found that this was occafioncd by a fingle plant, which, with the other natural productions, fhall be defcribed in another place. Before I returned to my fhip, I afcended the firft ridge of rocks, which rife in a kind of amphitheatre above one another. I was in hopes, by this means, of obtaining a view of the country; but before I reached the top, there came on fo thick a fog, that I could hardly find
3 *ny
my way clown again.   In the evening, we hauled the feinc
at the head of the harbour, but caught only half a dozen '---'
fmall fifh. We had no better fuccefs next day, when we tried with hook and line. So that our only rcfource here, for frefh provifions, were birds, of which there was an in-exhauflible florc.
The morning of the 26th proved foggy, with rain. How- Thurfdayz6. ever, we went to work to fill water, and to cut grafs for our cattle, which we found in fmall fpots near the head of the harbour. The rain which fell, fwelled all the rivulets to fuch a degree, that the fides of the hills, bounding the harbour, feemed to be covered with a meet of water. For the rain, as it fell, run into the fiffures and crags of the rocks that compofed the interior parts of the hills, and was precipitated down their fides in prodigious torrents.
The people having wrought hard the two preceding days, and neaily completed our water, which we filled from a brook at the left corner of the beach, I allowed them the 27th as a day of reft, to celebrate Chriftmas. Upon this in- fcridaya^ dulgencc, many of them went on fhore, and made excur-fions, in different directions, into the country, which they found barren and defolate in the higheft degree. In the evening, one of them brought to me a quart bottle which he had found, fattened with fome wire to a projecting rock on the North fide of the harbour. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following infeription ;
Ludovico
Ludovico XF Galliarum regey et dt * de Boynes regi a Secretis ad res maritimas annis 1772 et
*773-
From this infeription, it is clear, that we were not the firft Europeans who had been in this harbour. I fuppofed it to be left by Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, who went on fhore in a boat on the 13th of February 1772, the fame day that Monfieur de Kerguelen difcovered this land ; as appears by a Note in the French Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, publifhed the following year j\
. As
* The (d)y no doubt is a contraction of the word Domino. The French Secretary of the Marine was then Monfieur de Boynes.
f On perufing this paragraph of the Jcurnal, it will be natural to afk, How could Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an infeription, which, upon the very face of it, commemorates a tranfaclion of the following year ? Captain Cook's manner of exprcfling himfelf here, ftrongly marks, that he made this fuppofi-tion, only for want of information to enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had vifited this land a fecond time; and, reduced to the ncceffity of trying to accommodate what he faw himfelf, to what little he had heard of their proceedings, he confounds a tranfaclion which we, who have been better inftruclcd, know, for a certainty, belongs to the fecond Voyage, with a firnilar one, which his Chart of the Southern Hemifpheve has recorded, and which happened in a different year, and at a different place.
'Fhe bay, indeed, in which Monfieur de Boifguehenneu landed, is upon the Weft fide of this land, confidcrably to the South of Cape Louis, and not far from another more Southerly promontory, called Cape Bourbon ; a part of the coaft which our fhips were not upon. Its fituation is marked upon our Chart ; and a particular view of the bay du Lion Marin (for fo Boifguehenneu called it), with the foundings, is preferved by Kerguelcn.
But if the bottle and infeription found by Captain Cook's people, were not left here by Boifguehenneu, by whom and when were they left ? This we learn moft fatif-faclorilv, from the accounts of Kerguelen's fecond Voyage, as publifhed by himfelf and Monfieur de'Page's, which prefent us with the following particulars: That they arrived on the Weft fide of this land on the 14th of December 1773 j that, fleering to the
North
1776. December.
As a memorial of our having been in this harbour, I DeJ7?6b'er wrote on the other fide of the parchment, *—-v—-*
North Eaft, they difcovered, on the j 6th, the Jfle de Reunion, and the other fmall iflands as mentioned above; that, on the 17th, they had before them the principal land (which they were fure was connected with that feen by them on the 14th), ard a high point of that land, named by them Cape Francois; that beyond this Cape, the coafl took a South Eafterly direction, and behind it they found a bay, called by them Bale de I'Oifeau, from the name of their frigate ; that they then endeavoured to enter it, but were prevented by contrary winds and blowing weather, which drove them off the coaft Eaftward ; but that, at laft, on the 6th of January, Monfieur de Rof-nevet, Captain of the Oifeau, was able to fend his boat on fhore into this bay, under the command of Monfieur de Rochegudc, one of his officers, who took poffeffton of that bay, and of all the country, In the name of the King of France, zulth all the rcquifite formalities."
Here then we trace, by the moft unexceptionable evidence, the hiftory of the bottle and infeription; the leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the rcquifite formalities obferved by Monfieur de Rochegudc on this occafion. And though he did not "land till the 6th of January 1774, yet, as Kerguelen's fhips arrived upon the coaft on the 14th of December 1773, and had difcovered and looked into this very bay on the 17th of of that month, it was with the ftricteft propriety and truth that 1773, and not 1774, was mentioned as the date of the difcovery.
We need only look at Kerguelen's and Cook's Charts, *o judge that the Bale de VOifeau, and the harbour where the French infeription was found, is one and the fame place. But befides this agreement as to the general pofition, the fame conclusion refults more decifivcly flill, from another circumftanee worth mentioning: The French, as well as the Englifh vifiters of this bay and harbour, have given us a particular Plan of it; and whoever compares ours, publifhed in this Volume, with that to be met with in Kerguelen's and de Pages's Voyages, muft be ftruck with a rcfemblancc that could only be produced by copying one common original with fidelity. Nay, even the foundings are the fame upon the fame fpots in both Plans, being forty -five fathoms between the two Capes, before the entrance of the bay ; fixtecn fathoms farther in, where the Chores begin to contract; and eight fathoms up, near the bottom of the harbour. .
To thefe particulars, which throw abundant light on this part of our Author's Journal, I fhall only add, that the diftance of our harbour from that where Boifguehenneu landed in 1772, is forty leagues. For this we have the authority of Kerguelcn, in the following pafTage : ** Monfieur de Boifguehenneu defcendit le 13 de "** Fevrier 1772, dans un baie, qu'il nomme Baic du Lion Marin, & prit pofleflion " de cette terre au nom de Roi ; il n'y vit aucune trace d'habitants. Monfieur de " Rochegudc, en 1774, a defcendu dans un autre baie, que nous avons nomnie " Baie de l'Oifeau, & cette feconde rade eft a quarantcs lieues de la premiere. " 11 en a egalement pris pofleffion, & il n'y trouva egalemcnt aucune trace d'habitants." ■Kerguelcn, p. 92.
Vol. I, K Naves
December. NaVBS RefoluttOfl
—*—J et Difcovery
de Rege Mag?ice Britannice^ Decembris 1776.
I then put it again into a bottle, together with a filver two* penny piece of 1772; and having covered the mouth of the Saturday 28, bottle with a leaden cap, I placed it, the next morning, in a pile of ffones erected for the purpofe, upon a little eminence on the North more of the harbour, and near to the place where it was firft found in which pofition it cannot efcape the notice of any European, whom chance or defign may bring into this port. Here I difplayed the Britifh flag, and named the place Chriftmas Harbour, from our having arrived in it on that feftival.
It is the firft, or northernmoft inlet that we meet with on the South Eaft fide of Cape St. Louis *, which forms the North fide of the harbour, and is alfo the Northern point of this land. The fituation alone is fufficient to diftinguifla it from any of the other inlets j and, to make it more remarkable, its South point terminates in a high rock, which is perforated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a bridge. We faw none like this upon the whole coaft j\ The harbour has another diftinguifhing mark within, from a
fingle
* Cape Francois, for reafons already afligned.
f If there could be the leaft doubt remaining of the identity of the Baie de I'Oifeau, and Chriftmas harbour, the circumftance of the perforated rock, which divides it from another bay to the South, would amount to a ftiicf demonftration. For Monfieur de Pages had obferved this difcriminating mark before Captain Cook. His words are as follows : " L'on vit que la cote de l'l^ft, voifine du Cap Francois, avoit deux baies ; ** ellcs etoicnt fepartes par une pointc tres reconnoillable par fa forme, qui reprefentoit ** une parte cochcre,au travers de laquelle Von voyoit le jour." Voyages du M. de Pages, Vol. ii. p. 67.   Every one knows how exactly the form of a ports cocbere, or arched
gateway,
fingle flone or rock, of a vail fize, which lies on the top of „ *776-
. * December.
a hill on the South fide, near its bottom ; and oppofite ^-—1 this, on the North fide, there is another hill, much like it, but fmaller. There is a fmall beach at its bottom, where we commonly landed; and, behind it, fome gently rifing ground; on the top of which is a large pool of frefh water. The land on both fides of the inlet is high, and it runs in Weft, and Weft North Weft, about two miles. Its breadth is one mile and a quarter, for more than half its length; above which, it is only half a mile. The depth of water, which is forty-five fathoms at the entrance, varies, as we proceed farther in, from thirty, to five and four fathoms, as marked upon the Plan. The mores are ftcep; and the bottom is every where a fine dark fand, except in fome places clofe to the fhore, where there are beds of fea-weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour lies open only to two points of the compafs; and even thefe are covered by iflands in the offing, fo that no fea can fall in to hurt a fhip. The appearances on fhore confirmed this; for we found grafs growing clofe to high-water mark, which is a fure fign of a pacific harbour*.
It
gateway, correfponds with that of the arch of a bridge. It is very fatisfa&ory to find the two navigators, neither of whom knew any thing of the other's defcription, adopting the fame idea; which both proves that they had the fame uncommon object before their eyes, and that they made an accurate report.
* In the laft Note, we faw how remarkably Monfieur de Pages and Captain Cook agree about the appearance of the South Point of the harbour ; I fhall here fubjoin another quotation from the former, containing his account of the harbour itfelf, in which the Reader may trace the fame diftinguifhing features obferved by Captain Cook in the foregoing paragraph.
" Le 6, Ton mit a terrc dans la premiere baie a. l'F.ft du Cap Francois, k Ton prit *' pofleffion de ces contrccs. Ce mouillage confifle en un petite rade, qui a environs " quatres encablures, ou quatre cents toifes de profone'eur, fur un tiers en fus de lar-
K 2 " Scl,r.
_ *?7&    It is higlvwater here, at the full and change days, about ten
December. " . .
^ o'clock j and the tide rifes and falls about four feet.
After I had finifhed this buflnefs of the infeription, I went in my boat round the harbour, and landed in feveral places, to examine what the more afforded; and, particularly, to look for drift wood. For, although the land here was totally deftitute of trees, this might not be the cafe in other parts ; and if there were any, the torrents would force fome, or, at leaft, fome branches, into the fea, which would afterward throw them upon the fliores; as in all other countries where there is wood, and in many where there is none: but, throughout the whole extent of the harbour; I found not a fingle piece.
In the afternoon, I went upon Cape St. Louis*, accompanied by Mr. King, my Second Lieutenant. I was in hopes, from this elevation, to have had a view of the fea-coaft, and of the iflands lying off it. But, when I got up, I found every diftant object below me hid in a thick fog. The Land on the fame plain, or of a greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared naked and defolatc in the higheft
" geur. En dedans de cette rade eft un petit port, dont I'entree, de quatres enca-" blures de largeur, prefente au Sud-Eft. La fonde de la petite rade eft depuis qua-« rante-cinq jufqu'a (rente braflcs ; et celle du port depuis feize jufqu'a huit. Le ** fond des deux eft de fable noir et vafeux. La cote des deux bords eft haute, & par " une pente ties rude; elle eft couverte de verdure, & il y a une quantite prodigieufe « d'Outardes. Le fond du port eft occupe par un monticule qui laifle entre lui, et " la mer une plage de fable. Une petite riviere, de tres bonne eau, coule a la mer " dans cet endroit; & elle eft fournie par un lac qui eft un pcu au loin, au deflus du " monticule. II y avoit fur le plage beaucoup de pinguoins & de lions marins. Ces ** deux efpeces d'animaux ne fuyoient pas, & Ton augura que le pays n'etoit point M habite \ la terrc rapportoitde l'herbe large, noire, & bicn nourrie, qui n'avoit ce-«* pendant que cinque pouccs ou plus de hauteur. L'on ne vit aucun arbrc, ni figne ti d'habitation." Voyage du Monfieur dc Pages, Tom. ii. p. 69, 70. * Cape Francois,
degree;
THE.   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 69 degree; except fome hills to the Southward, which were T77S.
. _  * December.
covered with mow. -r
When I got on board, I found the launch hoifled iitj the Ihips unmoored, and ready to put to fea; but our failing was deferred till five o'clock the next morning, when we Sunday 29, weighed anchor.
C II A P.
CHAP. V.
Departure from Chriftmas Harbour.—Range along the Coaft) to difcover its Pofttion and Extent.—Several Promontories and Bays, and a Pen'ufula, defcribed and named.—Danger from Shoals.—Another Harbour and a Sound.—Mr. Anderfon s Obfervations on the natural Productions, Animals, Soil, &*c, of Kerguelens Land.
A S foon as the fhips were out of Chriftmas Harbour, we l \ fleered South Eaft 4 South, along the coaft, with a fine breeze at North North Weft, and clear weather. This we thought the more fortunate, as, for fome time pall, fogs had prevailed, more or lefs, every day; and the continuance of them would have defeated our plan of extending Kerguelen's difcovery. We kept the lead conftantly going; but fcldom ftruck ground with a line of fifty or fixty fathoms.
About feven or eight o'clock, we were off a promontory, which I called Cape Cumberland. It lies a league and a half from the South point of Chriftmas Harbour, in the direction of South Eaft i South. Between them is a bay with two arms, both of which feemed to afford good flicker for (nipping. Off Cape Cumberland is a fmall but pretty high ifland, on the fummit of which is a rock like a fen-try-box, which occafioned our giving that name to the ifland.   Two miles farther to the Eaftward, lies a groupe of
fmall
1776.
December.
Sunday 29.
fmall iflands and rocks, with broken ground about them : „
0 December.-
we failed between thefe and Sentry-Box Ifland, the chan- —* nel being a full mile broad, and more than forty fathoms deep j for we found no bottom with that length of line.
Being through this channel, we difcovered, on the South lide of Cape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the Weftward. It is formed by this Cape to the North, and by a promontory to the South, which I named Point Pringle, after my good friend Sir John Pringle, Prcfidcnt of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was called Cumberland Bay j and it feemed to be disjoined from the fea, which wafhes the North Weft coaft of this country, by a narrow neck of land. Appearances, at leaft, favoured fuch a conjecture.
To the Southward of Point Pringle, the coaft is formed into a fifth bay; of which this point is the Northern extreme; and from it, to the Southern extreme, is about four miles in the direction of South South Eaft * Eaft. In this bay, which obtained the Name of White Bay, on account of fome white fpots of land or rocks in the bottom of ir, are feveral leffer bays or coves, which feemed to, be flickered from all winds. Off the South point, are feveral rocks which raife their heads above water ; and, probably, many more that do not.
Thus far our courfe was in a direction parallel to the coaft, and not more than two miles from it. Thither our glaffes were continually pointed; and we could eafily fee that, except the bottoms of the bays and coves, which, for the moft part, terminated in fandy beaches, the fhores were rocky, and, in many places, fwarmcd with birds; but the j country
cJce ber coumi7 had mc fame barren and naked appearance as in <—^-—i ihe neighbourhood of Chriftmas Harbour.
"We had kept on our larboard bow, the land which firfl: opened off Cape St. Louis *, in the direction cf South 53* Eaft, thinking that it was an ifland, and that we mould find a paffage between it and the main. We now difcovered this to be a miftakc ; and found that it was a peninfula, joined to the reft of the coaft by a low ifthmus. I called the bay, formed by this peninfula, Repulfe Bay; and a branch of it feemed to run a good way inland towards the South South Weft. Leaving this, we fleered for the Northern point of the peninfula, which we named Howe's Foreland, in honour of Admiral Lord Howe.
As we drew near it, we perceived fome rocks and breakers near the North Weft part} and two iflands a league and a half to the Eaftward of it, which, at firft, appeared as one. I fleered between them and the Foreland f, and was in the middle of the channel by noon. At that time our latitude, by obfervation, was 480 51' South ; and we had made twenty-fix miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis
From this fituation, the moft advanced land to the Southward bore South Eaft •, but the trending of the coaft from the Foreland was more Southerly.   The iflands which lie
• Cape Francois.
| Though Kerguelen's fhips, in 1773, did not venture to explore this part of the coaft, Monfieur de PageVs account of it anfwers well to Captain Cook's. « Du 17 " au 23, l'on ne pritd'autrc connoifTance que celle de la figure de la cote, qui, courant " d'abord au Sud-Eft, & revenant enfuite au Nord-Eft, formoit un grand golfe. II " etoit occupe par des brifans & des rochers ; il avoit auffi une ifle banc, & ailez
etendue, & Ton ufa d'une bien foigncufe precaution, pour ne pas s'affaler dans ce " golfe."   Voyage du M. de Pages, Tom. ii. p. 67.
\ Cape Francois.
3 Off
off Chriftmas Harbour bore North; and the North point of |77£ the Foreland, North Co0 Weft, diftant three miles. The land \—-v— of this Peninfula, or Foreland, is of a moderate height, and of a hilly and rocky fubftancc. The coaft is low, with rocky points fhooting out from it; between which points arc little coves, with fandy beaches ; and thefe, at this time, were moftly covered with fea birds. We alfo faw upon them fome feals.
As foon as we were clear of the rocks and iflands before mentioned, I gave orders to fleer South Eaft by South, along the coaft.   But before thefe orders could be carried into execution, we difcovered the whole fea before us to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, which we knew to be faft to the bottom, and to grow on rocky fhoals.   I had often found a great depth of water on fuch fhoals j and I had, as often, found rocks that have raifed their heads nearly to the furface of the water.   It is always dangerous, therefore, to fail over them before they are well examined; but more especially, when there is no furgc of the fea to difcovcr the danger.   This was the cafe at prefent, for the fea was as fmooth as a mill-pond.   Confequently we endeavoured to avoid them, by fleering through the winding channels by which they were fcparatcd.   We kept the lead continually going; but never ftruck ground with a line of fixty fathoms.   This circumllancc iocreated the danger, as we could not anchor, whatever neccflity there might be for it.   After running in this manner above an hour, we difcovered a lurking rock, juft even with the furface of the fea. It bore North Eaft ^ Eaft, diftant three or four miles, and lay in the middle of one of thefe large beds of weeds. This was a fufficient warning to make us ufe every precaution to prevent our coming upon them.
Vol. I. L We
a
74 AVOYAGETO
1776.       v/c were now crofs the mouth of a large bay, that lies
December. v . 0 J
~*-' about eight miles to the Southward of Howe's Foreland. In
and before the entrance of this bay arc feveral low iflands, rocks, and thofe beds of fea-weed. But there feemed to be winding channels between them. After continuing our courfe half an hour longer, we were fo much cmbarraffed with thefe fhoals, that I refblved to haul off to the Eaftward, as the likclieft means of extricating ourfelves from the danger that threatened us. But fo far was this from anfwering the intended purpofe, that it brought us into more. I therefore found it abfolutcly neceffary to fecurc the fhips, if poflible, in fome place before night; efpccially as the weather had now become hazy, and a fog was apprehended. And feeing fome inlets to the South Weil of us, I ordered Captain Gierke, as the Difcovery drew lefs water than the Refolution, to lead in for the fhore; which was accordingly done.
In Handing in, it was not poflible to avoid running over the edges of fome of the fhoals, on which wc found from ten to twenty fathoms water; and the moment we were over, had no ground at the depth of fifty fathoms. After making a few boards to weather a fpit that run out from an iiland on our lee, Captain Gierke made the fignal for having difcovered an harbour ; in which, about five o'clock, wc anchored in fifteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine dark fand, about three quarters of a mile from the fhore; the North point of the harbour bearing North by Eaft $ Eafl, one mile diflant; and the fmall iflands in the entrance, within which we anchored, extending from Eafl to South Eafl.
Scarcely were the fhips fecured, when it began to blow very flrong; fo that wc thought it prudent to ftrike top-7 gallant
/
gallant yards.   The weather, however, continued fair ; and I7^-
the wind difperfing the fog that had fettled on the hills, it was tolerably clear alfo. The moment, therefore, we had anchored, I hoifted out two boats ; in one of which I fent Mr. Bligh, the Mafcer, to furvey the upper-part of the harbour, and look for wood; for not a fhrub was to be feen from the fhip. I alfo defired Captain Clerke to fend his Mafter to found the channel that is on the South fide of the fmall iiles, between them and a pretty large ifland which lies near the South point of the harbour. Having given thefe directions, I went myfelf, in my other boat, accompanied by Mr. Gore, my firft Lieutenant, and Mr. Baily, and landed on the North point, to fee what 1 could difcover from thence.
From the higheft hill over the point, we had a pretty good view of the fea-coaft, as far as Flowe's Foreland. It is much indented, and feveral rocky points feemed to ihoot out from it, with coves and inlets of unequal extent. One of the latter, the end of which I could not fee, was dif-joined from that in which the ihips were at anchor, by the point we then flood upon. A great many fmall iflands, rocks, and breakers appeared fcattered along the coaft, as well to the Southward as Northward; and I faw no better channel to get out of the harbour, than by the one through which wc had entered it.
While Mr. Baily and I were making the obfervations, Mr. Gore encompaffed the hill; and joined us by a different route, at the place where I had ordered the boat to wait for us. Except the craggy precipices, we met with nothing to obftruet our walk. For the country was, if poflible, mouc barren and defolate than about Chriftmas Harbour. And
L a
yet,
76 avoyageto
1776.     yCt if there be the lean: fertility in any part of this land,
December.    *. / / i »
«—^—t we ought to have found it in this, which is completely flickered from the predominating bleak Southerly and Wcflerly winds. I obferved, with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of any fort; and that, if I left any, they muff inevitably perifh. In the little cove where the boat waited for us (which I called Penguin Cove, as the beach was covered with thefe birds), is a line rivulet of frefh water, that may be eafily come at. Here were alfo fome large feals, fhags, and a few ducks; and Mr. Baily had a tranfient fight of a very fmall land bird; but it flew amongfl: the rocks, and we loft it. About nine o'clock we got on board.
Soon after, Mr. Bligh returned, and reported, that he had been four miles up the harbour, and, as he judged, not far from the head of it. He found that its direction was Weft South Weft; and that its breadth, a little above the fhips, did not exceed a mile; but grew narrower towards the head. The foundings were very irregular, being from thirty-feven to ten fathoms; and, except under the beds of fea-weed, which in many places extended from the fhore near half channel over, the bottom was a fine fand. He landed on both fhores, which he found barren and rocky, without the leaft figns of tree or fhrub, and with very little verdure cf any kind. Penguins, and other oceanic birds and feals, occupied part of the coaft; but not in fuch numbers as at Chriftmas Harbour.
Finding no encouragement to continue our refearches, Monday 30. and, the next morning, both wind and weather being favourable, I weighed anchor and put to fea.   To this harbour I gave the name of Port Pallifcr, in honour-of my worthy
friend
friend Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer.   It is fituated in the lati- D^J,tw,
tudc of 49° 3' South, in the longitude of 69* 37' Eaft, and 1-
five leagues from Howe's Foreland, in the direction of South 250 Eafl. There are feveral iflands, rocks, and breakers lying in and without the entrance, for which the annexed Chart of the coaft, and fkctch of the harbour, may be con-fulted. We went in and out between them and the North head ; but I have no doubt that there are other channels.
As we were Handing out of Port Pallifer, we difcovered a round hill, like a fugar-loaf, in the direction of South 720 Eaft, about nine leagues diftant. It had the appearance of an ifland lying at fome diftance from the coaft; but wc afterwards found it was upon the main land. In getting out to fea, we had to fleer through the winding channels amongfl the fhoals. However, we ventured to run over fome of them, on which we never found lefs than eighteen fathoms, and often did not ftrikc ground with twenty-four; fo that, had it not been for the fea-weed growing upon all of them, they would not have been difcovered.
After we had got about three or four leagues from the coaft, we found a clear fea, and then fleered Eaft till nine o'clock, when the Sugar Loaf hill, above mentioned, which I named Mount Campbell, bore South Eaft, and a fmall ifland that lies to the Northward of it, South South Eaft, diftant four leagues. I now fleered more Southerly, in order to get in with the land. At noon, the latitude by double altitudes was'490 8' South; and we had made eighty miles of Eaft longitude from Cape St. Louis-. Mount Campbell bore South 470 Weft, diftant about four leagues; a low point, beyond which no land was to be feen, bore South
* Cape Francois.
South
1776. South Eafl, at the diftance of about twenty miles; and we L^L!1\ WCrc about two leagues from the fhore.
The land here is low and level *. The mountains ending about five leagues from the low point, a great extent of low land is left, on which Mount Campbell is fituated, about four miles from the foot of the mountains, and one from the fea coaft. Thefe mountains have a confiderable elevation, as alfo moft of the inland ones. They feemed to be compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were capt with mow. Nor did the valleys appear to greater advantage. To whatever quarter we directed our glalfes, nothing but lierility was to be feen.
We had fcarcely finiChed taking the bearings at noon, before we obferved low land opening off the low point juft mentioned, in the direction of South South Eaft, and eight miles beyond it. This new point proved to be the very Eaftcrn extremity of this land, and it was named Cape Digby. It is fituated in the latitude of 49° 23' South, and in the longitude of 700 34' Eaft.
Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the fhore forms (befides the feveral leffer bays and harbours) one irreat bay that extends feveral leagues to the South Weft, where it feemed to lofe itfelf in various arms running in between the mountains. A prodigious quantity of fea-wecd grows all over it, which feemed to be the fame fort of weed that Mr. Banks diftinguifhed by the name of fucus
* This part of the coaft feems to be what the French faw on the 5th of January 1-74. Monfieur de Pages fpeaks of it thus: " Nous reconnumes une nouvelle cote " etendue de toute veu dans l'Eft, & dans le Oueft. Les terres de cette cote etoient ii moinS elevets que ccllcs que nous avions veues jufques icij elles etoient aufli d'un " alpecf moins rude."   De Pages, Tom. ii. p. 68.
giganhus.
ffiganfcui *. Some of this weed is of a moft enormous length, «7?&
Tiin- « December.
though the item is not much thicker than a man's thumb.__,--'
I have mentioned, that on fome of the fhoals upon which it grows, we did not ftrike ground with a line of twenty-four fathoms. The depth of water, therefore, muft have been greater. And as this weed does not grow in a perpendicular direction, but makes a very acute angle with the bottom, and much of it afterwards fprcads many fathoms on the furface of the fea, I am well warranted to fay, that fome of it grows to the length of fixty fathoms and upward.
At one o'clock (having run two leagues upon a South Eafl 4 Eafl courfe, from noon) we founded, and found eighteen fathoms water, and a bottom of fine fand. Seeing a fmall bending in the coafl, on the North fide of Cape Digby, I fleered for it. It was my intention to anchor there, if I fhould find it might be done with fafety, and to land on the Cape, to examine what the low land within it produced. After running in one league, wc founded again, and found thirteen fathoms; and immediately after, faw a flioal right before us, that feemed to extend off from the fhore, from which we were diftant about two miles. This difcovery obliged us to haul off, Eaft by South, one league, where our depth of water encreafed to twenty-five fathoms. We then fleered along fhore, and continued in the fame depth, over a bottom of fine fand, till Cape Digby bore Weft, two leagues diftant, when we found twenty-fix fathoms-
After this wc did not ftrike ground, though wc tried feveral times; but the fhip having a good deal of way, ran
* See Hawkcfworth's Collection of Voyages, Vol. ii. p. 42.
the
1776.     the line out before the lead could reach the bottom ; and
December.
-*—■* being difappointed in my views both of anchoring and of landing, I would not fhorten fail, but pumed forward, in order to fee as much of the coaft as poflible before night. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly South Weft by South for about four or live leagues, or to a low point, to which, in honour of her Majefty, I gave the name of Point Charlotte, and it is*the Southernmoft on the low coaft.
Six leagues from Cape Digby, in the direction of South South Weft 4- Weft, is a pretty high projecting point, which was called Prince of Wales's Foreland; and fix leagues beyond that, in the fame direction, and in the latitude of 490 54' South, and the longitude of 70° 13' Eaft, is the moft Southerly point of the whole coaft, which I diftinguifhed by the name of Cape George, in honour of his Majefty.
Between Point Charlotte and Prince of Wales's Foreland, where the country to the South Weft began again to be hilly, is a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound. It runs in Weft, quite to the foot of the mountains which bound it on the South Weft, as the low land before-mentioned does on the North. There arc iflands lying in the entrance, and others higher up, as far as wc could diftin-guifh. As we advanced to the South, we obferved, on the South Weft fide of Prince of Wales's Foreland, another inlet into Royal Sound ; and it then appeared, that the Foreland was the Eaft point of a large ifland lying in the mouth of it. There arc feveral fmall iflands in this inlet; and one about a league to the Southward of Prince of Wales's Foreland.
All the land on the South Weft fide of Royal Sound, quire to Cape George, is compofed of elevated hills, that rife di-jcctly from the fea, one behind another, to a confiderable 4 height.
height. Moft of the fummits were capt with mow, and they appeared as naked and barren as any we had feen. The fmalleft veftige of a tree or fhrub was not difcoverable, either inland or on the coaft; and, I think, I may venture to pronounce that the country produces none. The low land about Cape Digby, when examined through our glailes, refembled the reft of the low land we had before met with ; that is, it appeared to be partly naked and partly covered with a green turf; a defcription of which fhall be given in its proper place. The more is compofed of fandy beaches, on which were many penguins, and other oceanic birds; and an immenfe number of fhags kept perpetually flying about the fhips as we failed along.
Being defirous of getting the length of Cape George, to be affured whether or no it was the moft Southerly point of the whole land, I continued to ft retch to the South, under all the fail wc could carry, till half an hour paft feven o'clock; when, feeing no likelihood of accomplifhing my defign, as the wind had, by this time, fniftcd to Weft South Weft, the very direction in which we wanted to go, I took the advantage of the fliifting of the wind, and flood away from the coaft.
At this time Cape George bore South 530 Weft, diftant about feven leagues. A fmall ifland that lies off the pitch of the Cape, was the only land wc could fee to the South of it; and we were farther confirmed that there was no more in that quarter, by a South Weft fwell which we met as foon as we brought the Cape to bear in this direction.
But we have flill a ftronger proof that no part of this land can extend much, if at all, to the Southward of Cape George; and that is, Captain Furncaux's track in February
Vol. I. m J773,
A   VOYAGE TO
1773, after his feparation from me during my late voyage. His log-book is now lying before me; and I find from it, that he-eroded the meridian of this land only about feven-teen leagues to the Southward of Cape George; a diftance at which it may very well be feen in clear weather. This feems to have been the cafe when Captain Furneaux paffed it. For his log-book makes no mention of fogs or hazy weather; on the contrary, it exprefsly tells us, that, when in this fituation, they had it in their power to make obfervations, both for latitude and longitude, on board his fhip j fo that, if this land extends farther South than Cape George, it would have been fcarcely poflible that he fhould have paffed without feeing it.
From thefe circumftances we are able to determine, within a very few miles, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies; which does not much exceed one degree and a quarter. As to its extent from Eaft to Weft, that flill remains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 65*; becaufe, in 1773, under that meridian, I fearched for it in vain *..
The French difcoverers, with fome reafon, imagined Cape St. Louis -f to be the projecting point of a Southern continent.
* If the French obfervations, as marked upon Captain Cook's Chart, and ft ill more authentically upon that publifhed by their own difcoverers, may be depended upon, this land doth not reach fo far to the Weft as the meridian of 68°; Cape Louisv which is reprefented as its moft Wefterly point, being laid down by them to the Eaft of that meridian.
f The idea of Cape Louis being this projecting point of a Southern continent, muft have foon vanifhed, as Cape Francois, within a year after, was found, by the fame difcoverer, to lie above one third of a degree farther North upon the fame land. But if Kexguelen entertained any fuch imagination at firft, we are fure that, at prefent,, he thinks very differently. This appears from the following explicit declaration of his fentimcnts, which defcrves to be tranferibed from his late publication, as it does equal a honour
rent.   The Englifh have fince proved that no fuch continent   _ *7?6-
0 * December.
exiits ; and that the land in queftion is an ifland of no great «---'.
extent*; which, from its fterility, I mould, with great propriety, call the Ifland of Defolation, but that I would not rob Monfieur de Kerguelcn of the honour of its bearing his name f.
honour to his candour, and to Captain Cook's abilities. «« La terre que j'ai decou-" verte eft certainement une Ifle; puifque le celebre Capitainc Cook a pane au Sud, " lors de fon premiere voyage, fans rien rencontrer. Je juge meme, que cette ifle n'e/f *' pas blen grande. II y a aufli apparence, d'apres le Voyage de Monfieur Cook, " que toute cette etendue de Mers Mcridionales, eft femee d'Ifles ou de rochers; " mais qu'il n'y a ni continent ni grande terre"   Kerguelcn, p. 92.
* Kerguelen, as we fee in the laft Note, concurs with Captain Cook as to this. However, he tells us, that he has reafon to believe that it is about two hundred leagues in circuit; and that he was acquainted with about fourfcore leagues of its coaft. " J'en connois environs quatre-vingt lieues des cotes ; & j'ai lieu de croire, qu'elle *f a environ deux cents lieues de circuit."   Kerguelen, ibid.
f Some of Monfieur de Kerguelen's own countrymen feem more defirous than we are, to rob him of this honour. It is very remarkable that Monfieur de Pages never once mentions the name of his commander. And, though he takes occafion to enumerate the feveral French explorers of the Southern Hemifphere, from Gonneville clown to Crozet, he affects to pi;eferve an entire filence about Kerguelen, whofe firft voyage, in which the difcovery of this confiderable tracl of land was made, is kept as much out of fight, as if it never had taken place. Nay, not fatisficd with refilling to acknowledge the right of another, he almoft aflumes it to himfelf. For upon a Map of the World, annexed to his book, at the fpot where the new land is delineated, we read this infeription: IJles nonvelles Aujlrales vuees par Monfieur de Pages, en 1774. He could fcarcely have exprefled himfelf in ftronger terms, if he had meant to convey an idea that he was the conductor of the difcovery. And yet we know, that he was only a Lieutenant [Enfeigne de vaifleau] on board one of the three fhips commanded by Kerguelen ; and that the difcovery had been already mada in a former voynge, undertaken while he was adtually engaged in his lingular journey round the world.
After all, it cannot but be remarked, that Kerguelen was peculiarly unfortunate, in having done fo little to complete what he had begun. He difcovered a new land indeed; but, in two expeditions to it, he could not once bring his fhips to an anchor upon any part of its coafts. Captain Cook, as we have feen in this, and in the foregoing Chapter, had either fewer difficulties to ftruggle with, ox was more fuccefsful in fur-mounting them.
M 2 Mr.
Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, who, as I have already mentioned, had made Natural Hiftory a part of his ftudies, loft no opportunity, during the ihort time we lay in Chriftmas Harbour, of fearching the country in every direction. He afterwards communicated to me the obfervations he made on its natural productions; and I fhall infert them here in his own words.
'* Perhaps no place, hitherto difcovered in either hemifphere, under the fame parallel of latitude, affords fo fcanty a field for the naturalift as this barren fpot. The verdure which appears, when at a little diftance from the fhore, would flatter one with the expectation of meeting with fome herbage; but in this we were much deceived. For on landing, we faw that this lively colour was occafioned only by one fmall plant, not much unlike fome forts of faxifrage, which grows in large fpreading tufts, to a confiderable way up the hills. It forms a furface of a pretty large texture, and grows on a kind of rotten turf, into which one finks a foot or two at every ftep. This turf, dried, might, in cafes of neceftity, ferve for fuel, and is the only thing we met with here that could poffibly be applied to this ufe.
There is another plant, plentifully enough fcattered about the boggy declivities, which grows to near the height of two feet, and not much unlike a fmall cabbage, when it has fhot into feeds. The leaves about the root are numerous, large, and rounded ; narrower at the bafc, and ending in a fmall point. Thofe on the ftalks are much fmaller, oblong, and pointed. The ftalks, which are often three or four, all rife feparately from the root, and run into long cylindrical heads, compofed of fmall flowers.   It has not
only
only the appearance, but the watery acrid tafle of the and- De^6b'er
fcorbutic plants, and yet differs materially from the whole ■-—-
tribe; fo that we looked upon it as a production entirely peculiar to the place. We eat it frequently raw, and found it almofl like the New Zealand fcurvy-grafs. but it feemed to acquire a rank flavour by being boiled ; which, however, fome of our people did not perceive, and eflecmcd it good. If it could be introduced into our kitchen gardensi it would, in all probability, improve fo far by cultivation, as to be an excellent pot-herb. At this time, none of its feeds were ripe enough to be prcferved, and brought home* to try the experiment.
Two other fmall plants were found near the brooks and boggy places, which were eaten as fallad ; the one almofl like garden creffes, and very fiery; and the other very mild. This laft, though but fmall, is in itfelf a curiofity; having not only male and female, but what the botanifts call- 4 androgynous plants.
A coarfe grafs, which we cut down for the cattle, grows pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots about the fides of the harbour, with a fmaller fort which is rarer ; and, upon the flat ground, a fort of goofe-grafs, and another fmall plant much like it. In fhort, the whole catalogue of plants docs not exceed fixteen or eighteen, including fome forts of mofs, and a beautiful fpecies of lichen, which grows upon the rocks, higher up than the reft of the vegetable productions. Nor is there even the leaft appearance of a fhrub in the wh<Je country.
Nature has rather been more bountiful in furnifhing it with animals ; though, ftrictly fpeaking, they are not inhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind; and, in
general,
DeI7?ter Scnerai> °nly ufmg the land for breeding, and for a refting-—-—place. The moft confiderable are feals, or (as wc ufcd to call them) fea bears ; being that fort called the urfine feal. Thefe come afhore to reft or breed; but they were not very numerous, which is not to be wondered at, as it is known that thefe animals rather frequent out-rocks, and little iflands lying off coafts, than bays or inlets. They were, at this time, fhedding their hair, and fo tame, that we killed what number we chofe.
No other quadruped, either of the fea or of the land kind, was feen ; but a great number of birds, viz. ducks, petrels, albatrofTcs, fhags, gulls, and fea-fwallows.
The ducks are about the fize of a teal or widgeon; but fomewhat different in colour from either. They were in tolerable plenty about the fides of the hills, or even lower; and we killed a confiderable number, which were good, and without the leaft fiftiy tafte. We met with fome of the fame fort at the ifland of Georgia, in our late voyage.
The Cape petrel, or Pintado bird; the fmall blue one, which is always feen at fea; and the fmall black one, or Mother Carey's Chicken, are not here in great numbers. But we found a ncft of the firft with an egg in it, about the fize of a pullet's ; and the fecond, though fcarce, was met with in fome holes like rabbit-burrows.
Another fort, which is the largeft of all the petrels, and called by the fcamen Mother Carey's Goofe, is in greater numbers; and fo tame, that at firft wc could kill them with a flick upon the beach. They are not inferior in fize to an albatrofs, and arc carnivorous, feeding on the dead carcalTes of feals or birds, that were thrown into the fea.
Their
Their colour is a futty brown, with a erecnifh bill and feet;  _ *776-
J 1 O Decemtv
and, doubtlefs, they are the fame that the Spaniards call \-
quebrantahuejfos, whofe head is figured in Pcrnetty's Voyage to Falkland Iflands *.
Of the albatroffes, none were found on fhore except the grey one, which is commonly met with at fea in the higher Southern latitudes. Once I faw one of thefe fitting in the cliff of a rock, but they were frequently flying about the harbour; and the common large fort, as well as a fmaller with a black face, were feen farther out.
Penguins form, by far, the greatefl number of birds here; and are of three forts : The firfl, or largefl, I have feen formerly at the ifland of Georgia f. It is alfo mentioned by Bougainville J; but it does not feem to be fo folitary as he represents it, for we found confiderable numbers flocking together. The head is black, the upper part of the body a leaden grey, and the under part white, with black feet. It has two broad flripes of fine yellow, that begin on the fides of the head, and defcending by each fide of the neck, meet above its breafl. The bill is partly reddifh, and longer than in the other forts.
The fecond fort of penguin fcarcely exceeds half the fize of the former. The upper part of the body is a blackifh grey, with a white fpot on the upper part of the head, growing broader at each fide. The bill and feet are yel-lowifh. A very accurate figure and defcription, both of this and of the preceding, is given by Mr. Sonnerat §.
* Fig. 3. Plate VIII.
f Pennant's Patagonian penguin.   See his Genera of Birds.   Tab. 14. p. 66.
X Voyage autour du Monde, p. 69.
§ Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee, p. i8r, 182.   Tab. 113. 115.
The
1776.       xhe third fort of penguin met with here, had never been
December. ,
c-—v—j feen by any of us before. Its length is twenty-four inches, and its breadth twenty. The upper part of the body and throat are black; the reft white, except the upper part of the head, which has a fine yellow arch, looking backward, and ending on each fide in long foft feathers, which it can creel; as two crefts.
The two firft forts were found together on the beach; the large ones keeping by themfelves, and walking in fmall flocks amongfl the others, which were more numerous, and were fometimes feen a confiderable way up the fides of the hills. The third fort were only found by themfelves, but in great numbers, on the outer fhores of the harbour. They were breeding at this time ; and they lay, on the bare flones, only one white egg, larger than that of a duck. All the three forts of penguins were fo tame, that we took as many as wc pleafed with our hands.
The fhags of this place are of two forts ; the lefTer corvo-rant or water crow, and another, which is black above, with a white belly; the fame that is found in New Zealand, Terra del Fuego, and the ifland of Georgia.
We alfo met with here the common fca-gull, fea-fwallow, tern, and Port Egmont hen; the laft of which were tame and numerous.
Another fort of white bird, flocks of which flew about the bay, is very lingular; having the bafe of the bill covered with a horny cruft *. It is larger than a pigeon, with the bill black and the feet white, made like thofe of a cur-
* The flicath-bill.   See Pennant's Genera of Birds, p. 43.
3
lew.
lew. Some of our people put it in competition with the D^'hcr duck, as food,
The feine was hauled once; but we found only a few nOi about the fize of a fmall haddock ; though quite different from any wc knew. The fnout is lengthened; the head armed with fome ffrong fpines; the rays of the back-fin long, and very flrong; the belly is large; and she body without fcales. The only fliell fifli are a few limpets and mufclcs; and, amongfl the flones, a few fmall ftar-fiih, and fea-anemonies, were found.
The hills are of a moderate height; yet many of their tops were covered with mow at this time, though anfwer-ing to our June. Some of them have large quantities of flones, irregularly heaped together at their foot, or on their fides. The fides of others, which form ileep cliffs towards the fea, are rent from the top downward, and feem ready to fall off, having flones of a confiderable fize lying in the fiffures. Some were of opinion that froft might be the caufe of thefe fiffures, which I fhall not difpute ; but how others of the appearances could be effected, but by earthquakes, or fome fuch fevere fhocks, I cannot fay.
Ic appears that rain muft be almofl conftant here, not only from the marks of large torrents having rufhed down, but from the difpofuion of the country, which, even on the hills, is almofl an entire bog or fwamp, the ground finking at every ftep.
The rocks, or foundations of the hills, are compofed chiefly of a dark blue, and very hard, flone, intermixed with fmall particles of glimmer or quartz. This fecms to be one of the moft univcrfal productions of Nature, as it conftitutcs whole mountains in Sweden, in Scotland, at the
Vol. I. N Canary
Canary Iflands, the Cape of Good Hope, and at this place , y _^ Another brownifh brittle flone forms here fome confiderable rocks; and one which is blacker, and found in detached pieces, inclofes bits of coarfe quartz. A red, a dull yellow, and a purpliffi fand-flone, are alfo found in fmall pieces; and pretty large lumps of femi-tranfparent quartz, difpofed irregularly in polyedral pyramidal cryflals of long fhining fibres. Some fmall pieces of the common fort are met with in the brooks, made round by attrition ; but none hard enough to refill a file. Nor were any of the other flones acted on by aqua fortis, or attracted by the magnet.
Nothing, that had the leaft appearance of an ore or metal, was feen/*
CHAP.
CHAP. VI.
Paffage from Kerguelen s to Van Diemens Land.—Arrival in Adventure Bay.—Incidents there.—Interviews with the Natives.—"Their Perfons and Drefs defcribed.—■ Account of their Behaviour.—Table of the Longitude, Latitude, and Variation.—Mr. Anderfon s Obfervations on the natural Produ&ions of the Country, on the Inhabitants, and their Language.
FTER leaving Kerguelen's Land, I fleered Eafl by 1776. North, intending, in obedience to my inflructions, to yJcl™-,Zj touch next at New Zealand ; to recruit our water, to take in wood, and to make hay for the cattle. Their number, by this time, had been confiderably diminifhed ; two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and feveral of the goats having of late died, while we were employed in exploring this dcfolate co a ft.
The 31ft, in the morning, being the day after we flood T«efd*y 311 out to fea, wc had feveral obfervations of the fun and moon. Their remits gave the longitude 720 33' 36" Eaft, The timekeeper, in this fituation, gave jz 38' 15". Thefe obfervations were the more ufeful, as we had not been able to get any for fome time before, and they now ferved to allure us that no material error had crept into the time keeper.
On the ift of Tanuarv, being then in the latitude of 480 T777-
J ■> 7 o '   t January.
41' South, longitude 760 50' Eaft, the variation was 30* 39 Wedacf. 1.
N 2 Weft;
HnrtUfuJitipr.
Wed; and the next day, in the latitude of 480 22' South, longitude 8o° 22' Eaft, it was 30° 47' 18" Weft. This was the greateft variation we found in this pafTage ; for afterward it began to decreafe, but fo flowly, that on the 3d, in the evening, being then in the latitude of 480 16' South, longitude 850 Eaft, it was 290 38' Weft.
Thus far we had frefh gales from the Weft and South Weft, and tolerably clear weather. But now the wind veered to the North, where it continued eight days, and was attended with a thick fog. During this time, we ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. Now and then the weather would clear up, and give us a fight of the fun; but this happened very feldom, and was always of fliort continuance. On the 7th, I hoifted out a boat, and fent an order to Captain Gierke, appointing Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of feparation before we arrived in the meridian of that land. But we were fortunate enough, amidft all this foggy weather, by frequently firing guns as fignals, though we feldom faw each other, not to lofe company.
On the 12th, being in the latitude of 48° 40' South, longitude no° 26' Eaft, the Northerly winds ended in a calm; which, after a few hours, was fucceeded by a wind from the Southward. This, with rain, continued for twenty-four hours ; when it frcmened, and veered to the Weft and North Weft, and brought on fair and clear weather.
We continued our courfe to the Eaftward, without meeting with any thing worthy of notice, till four o'clock in the morning of the 19th; when, in a fudden fquall of wind, though the Difcovery received no damage, our forc-top-maft went by the board, and carried the main-top-gallant-maft
with
with it.   This occafioned fome delay, as it took us up the ja\77a7r*y whole day to clear the wreck, and to fit another top-maft. >.——» The former was accomplifhed without lofing any part of it, except a few fathoms of fmall rope.   Not having a fpare main-top-gallant-maft on board, the fore-top-gallant-mall was converted into one for our immediate ufe.
The wind continued Wefterly, blew a frefh gale, and was attended with clear weather; fo that fcarccly a day pafTcd without being able to get obfervations for fixing the longitude, and the variation of the compafs. The latter de-creafed in fuch a manner, that in the latitude of 440 18' South, longitude 1320 1' Eaft, it was no more than 50 34' 18" Weft; and on the 22d, being then in the latitude of 43*27' Wcdnefv 2 South, longitude 1410 50' Eaft, it was i° 24' 15" Eaft. So that we had crofted the line where the compafs has no varir ation.
On the 24th, at three o'clock in the morning, we difco- Friday 24^ vered the coaft of Van Diemen's Land, bearing North 4. Weft. At four o'clock, the South Weft Cape bore North North Weft a Weft; and the Mewflone, North Eaft by Eaft, three leagues diftant. There are feveral iflands and high rocks lying fcattercd along this part of the coaft, the South-ernmoft of which is the Mewflone. It is a round elevated rock, five or fix leagues diftant from the South Weft Cape, in the direction of South 550 Eafl.
At noon, our latitude was 430 47' South, longitude 147* Eafl; and the fituation of the lands round us as follows: An elevated round-topped hill bore North 170 Weft; the South Weft Cape North 74* Weft; the Mewflone Weil | North; Swilly Ifle or Rock South 490 Eaft; and the South Eaft or South Cape North 40* Eaft, diftant near three leagues. The
land
•777-    land between the South Weft and the South Capes is broken
January. 1
<—-v-—' and hilly, the coaft winding, with points fhooting out from if; but we were too far off, to be able to judge whether the bays formed by thefe points were flickered from the fea-winds. The bay which appeared to be the largeft and deepeft, lies to the Weftward of the peaked hill above-mentioned. The variation of the compafs here, was 50 15' Eaft.
At fix o'clock in the afternoon wc founded, and found fixty fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and f hells-The South Cape then bore North 750 Weft, two or three leagues diftant; Tafman's Head North Eaft; and Swilly Rock South by Weft i. Weft. About a league to the Eaftward of Swilly, is another elevated rock, that is not taken notice of by Captain Furncaux. I called it the Eddyftonc, from its very great refemblance to that light-houfe. Nature feems to have left thefe two rocks here, for the fame purpofe that the. Eddyftone light-houfe was built by man, viz. to give navigators notice of the dangers around them. For they are the confpicuous fummits of a ledge of rocks under water, on which the fea, in many places, breaks very high. Their furface is white wuh the dung of fea-fowls; fo that they may be feen at fome diftance, even in the night. On the North Eaft fide of Storm Bay, which lies between the South Cape and Tafman's Head, there are fome coves or creeks, that feemed to be flickered from the fea-winds ; and I am of opinion that, were this coaft examined, there would be found fome good harbours.
Soon after we had fight of land the Wefterly winds left us, and were lucccedcd by variable lit^ht airs and alternate Siuday26.   calms, till the 26th. at noon.   At that time a breeze fprung
7 tip
up and fremened at South En ft, which put it in my power j,Jn7^7ry< to carry into execution the defign I had, upon due confidera- ^—s—' tion, formed, of carrying the mips into Adventure Bay, where I might expect to get a fupply of wood and of grafs for the cattle ; of both which articles we mould, as 1 now found, have been in great want, if I had waited till our arrival in New Zealand. We therefore flood for the bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock in the afternoon, in twelve fathoms water, over a bottom of fand and oufe. Penguin Ifland, which lies clofe to the Eaft point of the bay, bore North 84° Eafl ; the Southernmoff point of Maria's Iflands bore North 76° * Eaft ; and Cape Frederic Henry, or the North point of the bay, bore North 330 Eaft. Our diftance from the neareft fhore was about three quarters of a mile.
As foon as we had anchored, I ordered the boats to be hoifted out. In one of them I went myfelf, to look for the moft commodious place for furnifhing ourfelves with the neceffary fupplies; and Captain Clerke went in his boat upon the fame fervice. Wood and water we found in plenty, and in fituations convenient enough, efpecially the full. But grafs, of which wc flood moft in need, was fcarce, and alfo very coarfe. Neceflity, however, obliged us to take fuch as we could get.
Next morning early, I fent Lieutenant King to the Eaft Monday 27. fide of the bay with two parties; one to cut wood, and the other to cut grafs, under the protection of the marines, whom I judged it prudent to land as a guard. For although, as yet, none of the natives had appeared, there could be no doubt that fome were in our neighbourhood, as we had feen columns of fmokc, from the time of our approaching the coaft; and fome. now was obferved, at no great diftance
up
•777«     up in the woods.   I alfo fent the launch for water: and
January. * '
\——i afterwards vifited all the parties ihyfelf. In the evening, we drew the feine at the head of the bay, and, at one haul, caught a great quantity of fifh. We mould have got many more, had not the net broken in drawing it afhore. Moft of them were of that fort known to feamen by the name of elephant fifh. After this, every one repaired on board with what wood and grafs we had cut, that we might be ready to fail whenever the wind fhould ferve.
Tuefday 28. This not happening next morning, the people were fent on fhore again, on the fame duty as the day before. I alfo employed the carpenter, with part of his crew, to cut fome fpars for the ufe of the fhip; and difpatched Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, in a fmall boat to furvey the bay.
In the afternoon, we were agreeably furprifed, at the place where we were cutting wood, with a vifit from fome of the natives; eight men and a boy. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatefl confidence imaginable ; for none of them had any weapons, except one, who held in his hand a ftick about two feet long, and pointed at one end.
They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; unlefs we confider as fuch, and as a proof of their love of finery, fome large punctures or ridges raifed on different parts of their bodies, fome in ftraight, and others in curved lines.
They were of the common flature, but rather flcndcr. Their fkin was black, and alfo their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they were not diftinguifhed by remarkably thick lips, nor flat nofes. On the contrary, their features were far from being difagree-
able.
able.  They had pretty good eyes; and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty.   Moft of them had their hair v--x—* and beards fmeared with a red ointment; and fome had their faces alfo painted with the fame compofition.
They received every prefent we made to them, without the leaft appearance of fatisfaction. "When fome bread was given, as foon as they underftood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or threw it away, without even tailing it. They alfo refufed fome elephant fifli, both raw and drelfed, which we offered to them. But upon giving fome birds to them, they did not return thefe, and eafily made us comprehend that they were fond of fuch food. I had brought two pigs afhore, with a view to leave them in the woods. The inftant thefe came within their reach, they fei-zed them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately ; with no other intention,, as we could perceive, but to kill them.
Being defirous of knowing the ufe of the flick which one of ourvifiters carried in his hand, I made figns to them to fhew mc j and fo far fucceeded, that one of them fet up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the diftance of about twenty yards. But wc had little reafon to commend his dexterity; for, after repeated trials, he was flill very wide from the object. Omai, to fhew them how much fupcrior our weapons were to theirs, then fired his mufimct at it; which alarmed them fo much, that notwithftandihg all we could do or fay, they ran inflantly into the woods. One of them was fo frightened, that he let drop an axe and two knives, that had been given to him. From us, however, they went to the place, where fome of the Difcovery's people were employed in taking water into their boat.   The officer
Vol. I. O of
of that party, not knowing that they had paid tis fo friendly a vifit, nor what their intent might be, fired a mufquet in the air, which fent them off with the greater! precipitation.
Thus ended our firfl interview with the natives. Immediately after their final retreat, judging that their fears would prevent their remaining near enough to obferve what was palling, I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and fow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I faw them left there, by the fide of a frefh-watcr brook. A young bull and a cow, and fome fheep and goats, were alfo, at firfl, intended to have been left by me, as an additional prefent to Van Diemen's Land. But I foon laid afide all thought of this, from a perfuafion that the nativcs? incapable of entering into my views of improving their country, would deflroy them. If ever they fhould meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. But as that race of animals foon becomes wild, and is fond of the thickefl cover of the woods, there is great probability of their being preferved. An open place mull have been chofen for the accommodation of the other cattle ; and in fuch a fituation, they could not poffibly have remained concealed many days.
The morning of the 29th was ufhered in with a dead calm, which continued all day, and effectually prevented our failing. I therefore fent a party over to the Eafl point of the bay to cut grafs; having been informed that fome of a fuperior quality grew there. Another party, to cut wood, was ordered to go to the ufual place, and I accompanied them myfelf. We had obferved feveral of the natives, this morning, fauntering along the fhore, which aflurcd us, that 7 though
though their condensation had made them leave us fo AUfcy abruptly the day before, they were convinced that we intended them no mifchicf, and were defirous of renewing the intercourfe.   It was natural that I mould wifh. to be prefent on the occafion.
We had not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without exprelfing the leaft fign of fear or diftruft. There was one of this company confpicu-oufly deformed; and who was not more diftinguifhable by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his gef-tures, and the feeming humour of his fpeeches; which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we fuppofed, for our entertainment. But, unfortunately, we could not underftand him ; the language fpoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. It appeared to me, to be different from that fpoken by "the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my firft voyage ; which is not extraordinary, fince thofe we now faw, and thofe wc then vifited, differ in many other refpects *   Nor did they feem to be
* The moft ftriking difference feems to be with regard to the texture of the hair. The natives whom Captain Cook met with at Endeavour River in 1760, are faid, by him, to have naturally long and black hair, though it le univerfdly cropped Jhort. In general it isJlrait, but fometimes it has a flight curl. We faw none that was not matted and fdthy. Their beards were of the fame colour with the hair, and bufly and thick. See Hawkefvvorth's Collection, Vol. iii. chap. 8. p. 632.
It may be neceffary to mention here, on the authority of Captain Kin?, that Captain Cook was very unwilling to allow that the hair of the natives now met with in Adventure Bay was woolly, fancying that his people, who firft obferved this, had been deceived, from its being clotted with greafe and red ochre. But Captain King prevailed upon him afterward, to examine car.:fully the hair of the boys, which was generally, as well as that of the women, i. ic from this dirt; and then he owned himfelf fatisfied that it was naturally woolly. Peihaps wc may fuppotL- it pofiible, that he himfelf had been deceived when he was in Endeavour River, from this very ciicum-flance ; as he exprefsly fays, that they jaw none that ivas not matted and f.'t/.y.
O 2 fuch
llllly **uck m^eraDie wretches as the natives whom Dampicr men--v-^-/ tions to have feen on its weftern coaft *.
Some of our prefent groupe wore, loofe, round their necks, three or four folds of fmall cord, made of the fur of fome animal; and others of them had a narrow flip of the kangooroo fkin tied round their ancles. I gave to each of them a firing of beads, and a medal; which I thought they received with fome fatisfaction. They feemed to fet no value on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the ufe of fifli-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at fome of ours which we fhewed to them.
We cannot, however, fuppofe it to be poflible that a people who inhabit a fea-coaft, and who feem to derive no part of their fuftcnance from the productions of the ground, fhould not be acquainted with fome mode of catching fifh, though we did not happen to fee any of them thus employed; nor obferve any canoe or veffel, in which they could go upon the water. Though they abfolutely rejected the fort of fifh, that we offered to them, it was evident that fir ell-
* And yet Dampier's New Hollanders, on the Weftern coaft, bear a ftriking re-femblance to Captain Cook's at Van Diemen's Land, in many remarkable inftances: jft, As to their becoming familiar with the ftrangers.
2dly, As to their perfons; being ftraight-bodied, and thin ; their flcin black; and black, fhorr, curled hair, like the Negroes of Guinea ; with wide mouths.
3dly, As to their wretched condition ; having no houfes, no garment, no canoes, nd inftrument to catch large fifh ; feeding on broiled mufcles, cockles, and periwinckles ; having no fruits of the earth; their weapons a ftraight pole, fharpencd and hardened at the end, &c. &c.
The chief peculiarities of Dampier's miferable wretches are, ift, Their eye-lids being always half clofed, to keep the flies out, which were excc/Tively troublefome there : and, 2dly, Their wanting the two fore-teeth of the upper jaw, and their having no beards. See Dampier's Voyages, Vol. i. p. 464, &c. There feems to be no reafon for fuppofing that Dampicr was miftaken in the above account of what he faw.
fifh, at leaft, made a part of their food, from the many *T?7^ heaps of mufcle-fhells we faw in different parts near the v~—/, fhore, and about fome deferted habitations near the head of the bay. Thefe were little fheds or hovels built of fticks, and covered with bark. We could alfo perceive evident figns of their fometimes taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees, which had been hollowed out by fire, moft probably for this very purpofe. In or near all thefe habitations, and wherever there was a heap of fhells, there re^ mained the marks of firefi an indubitable proof that they do not eat their food raw.
After flaying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, as I could now be pretty confident that the latter were not likely to give the former any difturbance, I left them, and went over to the grafs-cuttcrs on the Eaft point of the bay, and found that they had met with a fine patch. Having feen the boats loaded, I left that party, and returned on board to dinner; where, fome time after, Lieutenant King arrived.
From him I learnt, that I had but juft left the fhore, when feveral women and children made their appearance, and were introduced to him by fome of the men who attended therm Fie gave prefents to all of them, of fuch trifles as he had about him. Thefe females wore a kangooroo fkin (in the fame fhape as it came from the animal) tied over the moulders, and round the waift. But its only ufe feemed to be, to fupport their children when carried on their backs; for it did not cover thofe parts which moft nations conceal; being, in all other refpedts, as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies marked with fears in the fame manner.   But in this they differed from the men, that though
q their
f777-     their hair was of the fame colour and texture, fome of them
an uary.
—%—-> had their heads completely fhorn or fhaved ; in others this operation had been performed only on one fide, while the red of them had all the upper part of the head fhorn clofe, leaving a circle of hair all round, fomewhat like the tonfure of the Romifli Ecclcfiaftics *. Many of the children had fine features, and were thought pretty; but of the perfons of the women, efpecially thofe advanced in years, a lefs favourable report was made. However, fome of the Gentlemen belonging to the Difcovery, I was told, paid their addrefles, and made liberal offers of prefents, which were rejected with great difdain j whether from a fenfe of virtue, or the fear of difplcafing their men, I fhall not pretend to determine. That this gallantry was not very agreeable to the latter, is certain : for an elderly man, as foon as he obferved it, ordered all the women and children to retire, which they obeyed, though fome of them fhewed a little reluctance.
This conduct: of Europeans amongfl Savages, to their women, is highly blameable; as it creates a jealoufy in their men, that may be attended with confequences fatal to the ■fuccefs of the common enterprizc, and to the whole body
■ Captain Cook's account of the natives of Van Diemen's Land, in this Chapter, no doubt proves that they differ, in many refpecls, as he fays, from the inhabitants of the more northerly parts of the Eaft coaft of New Holland, whom he met with in his firft voyage. It feems very remarkable, however, that the only woman any of his people came clofe to, in Botany Bay, fhould have her hair cropped foort ; while the man who was with her, is faid to have had the hair of his head bujljy, and his heard long and rough. Hawkcfworlh's Collection, Vol. iii. p. 502. Could the natives of Van Die-men's Land be more accurately defcribed, than by faying that the hair of the men's heads is bujhy, and their beards long and rough, and that the xvometis hair is cropped port ? So far North, therefore, as Botany Bay, the natives of the Eaft coaft of New Holland feem to relemblo thofe of Van Diemen's Land, in this circumftancc.
Of
of adventurers, without advancing the private purpofe of ^777u\-
the individual, or enabling him to gain the object, of his 1-*—
wifhes. I believe it has been generally found amongfl: uncivilized people, that where the women are eafy of accefs, the men are the firft to offer them to flrangers; and that, where this is not the cafe, neither the allurement of pre-fents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the dcfired effect. This obfervation, I am furc, will hold good, throughout all the parts of the Sduth Sea where I have been. Why then fhould men act fo abfurd a part, as to rifk their own fafety, and that of all their companions, in pur-fuit of a gratification which they have no probability of obtaining ?
In the afternoon I went again to the grafs-cutters, to forward their work. I found them then upon Penguin Ifland, where they had met with a plentiful crop of excellent grafs. We laboured hard till fun-fet, and then repaired on board, fatisficd with the quantity we had collected, and which I judged fufheient to laft till our arrival in New Zealand.
During our whole ftay, we had either calms or light airs from the Eaftward. Little or no time, therefore, was loft by my putting in at this place. For if I had kept the fea, we fhould not have been twenty leagues advanced farther on our voyage. And, fhort as our continuance was here, it has enabled me to add fomewhat to the imperfect acquaintance that hath hitherto been acquired, with this part of the globe.
Van Diemen's Land has been twice vifited before. It was fo named by Tafman, who difcovered it in November 1642. From that time it had efcaped all farther notice by European navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in
March
«777-     March 1773.   I hardly need fay, that it is the Southern
January. ' ' ° J J
«—v-' point of New Holland, which, if it doth not deferve the
name of a continent, is by far the largefl ifland in the world.
The land is, for the moil: part, of a good height, divcrfificd with hills and valleys, and every where of a grccnifh hue. It is well wooded; and, if one may judge from appearances, and from what we met with in Adventure Bay, is not ill fupplied with water. We found plenty of it in three or four places in this bay. The befi, or what is moft convenient for fhips that touch here, is a rivulet, which is one of feveral that fall into a pond, that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the fea-water; fo that it muft be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire-wood is to be got, with great eafc, in feveral places.
The only wind to which this bay is expofed, is the North Eafl. But as this wind blows from Maria's iflands, it can bring no very great fea along with it; and therefore, upon the whole, this may be accounted a very fafe road. The bottom is clean, good holding ground; and the depth of water from twelve, to five and four fathoms. But the annexed Chart will convey a better idea of every thing neceffary to be known about Adventure Bay, than any defcription.
Captain Furneaux's fketch of Van Diemen's Land, publifhed with the Narrative of my laft Voyage*, appears to me to be without any material error, except with regard to Maria's Iflands, which have a different fituation from what is there reprcfented.   What my idea of them is, will be feen
* Vol. i, p. 115.
in
in the fketch of that coaft here inferted; and I infert it, not as the refult of a more faithful, but merely of a fecond examination. The longitude was determined by a great number of lunar obfervations, which we had before we made the land, while we were in fight of it, and after we had left it; and reduced to Adventure Bay, and the feveral principal points, by the time-keeper. The following Table will exhibit both the longitude and latitude at one view:
Latitude South. Longitude Haft.
Adventure Bay, -      -     430 31'  20"--1470 29' o"
Tafman's Head, -      ~   43 33 c——147 28 o
South Cape,      - 43 42     o-146 56 o
South Weft Cape, -     -   43 37    0-146 7 o
Swilly Ifle,      - -      -   43 55    o-147 6 o
I, _    C Variation of the compafs s° 15' Eaft.
Adventure Bay,-*   .    r .   „    . _  .r r ,0
I Dip of the South End of the Needle 70 ij£f.
WTe had high-water on the 29th, being two days before the laft quarter of the moon, at nine in the morning. The perpendicular rife then was eighteen inches; and there was no appearance of its having ever exceeded two feet and a half. Thefe are all the memorials ufeful to navigation, which my fhort flay has enabled me to preferve, with refpect to Van Diemen's Land.
Mr. Anderfon, my Surgeon, with his ufual diligence, fpent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His account of its natural productions, with which he favoured me, will more than com-penfate for my filence about them: fome of his remarks on the inhabitants will fupply what I may have omitted or re-prefented imperfectly j and his fpecimen of their language,.
Vol. I. * P however
however fhort, will be thought worth attending to, by thofe who wifh to collect materials for tracing the origin of nations. I mail only prcmife, that the tall flraight fore ft trees, which Mr. Anderfon defcribes in the following account, are of a different fort from thofe which are found in the more Northern parts of this coaft. The wood is very long and clofe-grained ; extremely tough ; fit for fpars, oars, and many other ufes; and would, on occafion, make good mads (perhaps none better), if a method could be found to lighten it.
" At the bottom of Adventure Bay is a beautiful fandy beach, which feems to be wholly formed by the particles waflicd by the fea from a very fine white fand-flone, that in many places bounds the more, and of which Fluted Cape, in the neighbourhood, from its appearance, feems to be compofed. This beach is about two miles long, and is excellently adapted for hauling a feine, which both fhips did repeatedly with fuccefs. Behind this, is a plain or flat, with a fait, or rather brackifh lake (running in length parallel with the beach), out of which we caught, with angling rods, many whitifh bream, and fome fmall trout. The other parts of the country adjoining the bay are quite hilly ; and both thofe and the flat arc an entire forcfl of very tall trees, rendered almofl impafl-ablc by fhrubs, brakes of fern, and fallen trees; except on the fides of fome of the hills, where the trees are but thin, and a coarfe grafs is the only interruption.
To the Northward of the bay there is low land, flretching farther than the eye can reach, which is only covered with wood in certain fpots; but we had no opportunity to examine in what refpects it differed from the hilly country.
The
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 107 The foil on the flat land is either fandy, or confifls of a yel- J?71*
J 7 J January.
lowifh mould, and, in fome places, of a reddifh clay.   The «-«-'
fame is found on the lower part of the hills ; but farther up, efpecially where there are few trees, it is of a grey tough eaft, to appearance very poor.
In the valleys between the hills, the water drains down from their ftdes; and at laft, in fome places, forms fmall brooks; fuch indeed as were fufficient to fupply us with
water, but by no means of that fize we might expect in fo
1
cxtenfive a country, efpecially as it is both hilly and well wooded. Upon the whole, it has many marks of being naturally a very dry country; and perhaps might (independent of its wood) be compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, though that lies ten degrees farther Northward, rather than to New Zealand, on its other fide, in the fame latitude, where we find every valley, however fmall, furnifhed with a confiderable ftream of water. The heat too appears to be great, as the thermometer flood at 64, 70, and once at 74. And it was remarked, that birds were feldom killed an hour or two, before they were almofl covered with fmall maggots, which I would rather attribute merely to the heat; as we had not any reafon to fuppofe there is a peculiar difpofition in the climate to render fubftances foon putrid.
No mineral bodies, nor indeed flones of any other fort, but the white fand one already mentioned, were obferved.
Amongfl the vegetable productions, there is not one, that we could find, which afforded the fmalleft fubfiftcnce for man.
The forcft trees are all of one fort, growing to a great height, and in general quite flraight, branching but little,
P 2 till
1777-    till towards the top.   The bark is white, which makes them
January. r
—j appear, at a diftance, as if they had been peeled; it is alfo thick j and within it are fometimes collected, pieces of a red-dilh tranfparent gum or refin, which has an aftringent tafte. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and pointed; and it bears clufters of fmall white flowers, whofe cups were, at this time, plentifully fcattered about the ground, with another fort refembling them fomewhat infhapc, but much larger; which makes it probable that there are two /pedes of this tree. The bark of the fmaller branches, fruit, and leaves, have an agreeable pungent tafte, and aromatic fmell; not unlike peppermint; and in its nature, it has fome affinity to the myrtus of botanifts.
The moft common tree, next to this, is a fmall one about ten feet high, branching pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, cylindrical flower, conftfting only of a vaft number of filaments; which, being fried, leave a fruit like a pine top. Both the above-mentioned trees are unknown in Europe.
The underwood confifts chiefly of a fhrub fomewhat refembling a myrtle, and which feems to be the leptofpermum fcoparium, mentioned in Dr.Forftcr's Char. Gen. Plant.; and, in fome places, of another, rather fmaller, which is a newJpe-cies of the melaleuca of Linnaius.
Of other plants, which are by no means numerous, there is a fpecies of gladiolus, rufh, bell-flower, famphire, a fmall fort of wood-forrel, milk-wort, cudweed, and Job's tears; with a few others, peculiar to the place. There are feveral kinds of fern, as polypody, fpleenwort, female fern, and fome moffes ; but the fpecies are either common, or at leaft found in fome other countries, efpecially New Zealand.
The
a
The only animal of the quadruped kind wc got, was a fort of opoffum* about twice the fize of a large rat; and is, moft probably, the male of that fpecies found at Endeavour River, as mentioned in. Hawkcfworth's Collection of Voyages *. It is of a dufky colour, above, tinged with a brown or rulfy calf, and whitifli below. About a third of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath ; by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs thefe, and lives on berries. Mr. Webber's drawing will give a better idea of it than any defcription. The kan-goorooy another animal found farther Northward in New Holland, as defcribed in the fame Voyage f, without all doubt alfo inhabits here, as the natives wc met with had fome pieces of their fkins; and we. feveral times faw animals, though indiftinctly, run from the thickets when we walked in the woods, which, from the fize, could be no other. It mould feem alfo, that they are in confiderable numbers, from the dung we faw almoff every where, and from the narrow tracks or paths they have made amongfl; the fhrubbcry.
There are feveral forts of birds, but all fo fcarcc and Illy, that they are evidently haraiFed by the natives, who, per* haps, draw much of their fubfiftence from them. In the woods, the principal forts arc large brown hawks or eagles ; crows, nearly the fame as ours in England; yellowim paroquets; and large pigeons. There arc alfo three or four fmall birds, one of which is of the thrufli kind; and another fmall one, with a pretty long tail, has part of the head and neck of a moft beautiful azure colour; from whence we named it motacilla cyanea.   On the fhore were feveral com-
*■ Vol. iii. p. 586.
f Ibid. p. 577.
mora
1"77-    mon and fea gulls; a few black oyfler catchers, or fca-pics;
^l^L^f and a pretty plover of a none colour, with a black hood. About the pond or lake behind the beach, a few wild ducks were feen; and fome (hags ufed to perch upon the high leaflefs trees near the more.
Some pretty large blackifh fnakes were feen in the woods; and we killed a large, hitherto unknown, lizard, fifteen inches long and fix round, elegantly clouded with black and yellow ; befides a fmall fort, of a brown gilded colour above, and ruily below.
The fea affords a much greater plenty, and at leafl as great a variety as the land. Of thefe the elephant fifh, or pejegalto, mentioned in Frczier's Voyage *, are the mod numerous i and though inferior to many other fifh, were very palatable food. Several large rays, nurfes, and fmall leather-jackets were caught; with fome fmall white bream, which were firmer and better than thofe caught in the lake. We likewife got a few foles and flounders; two forts of gurnards, one of them a new fpecies j fome fmall fpotted mullet; and, very unexpectedly, the fmall fifh with a filver band on its fide, called oiherina hepfetus by Haffelquift -f%
But that next in number, and fupcrior in goodnefs, to the elephant fifh, was a fort none of us recollected to have feen before. It partakes of the nature both of a round and of a flat fifh, having the eyes placed very near each other; the fore-part of the body much flattened or depreffed, and the refl rounded. It is of a brownifh fandy colour, with rufly fpots on the upper part, and whitifh below.   From the
* Tom. ii. p. 211. J2mo. Planche XVII, -j- her PaUJimwn.
quantity
quantity of flimc it was always covered with, it feems to live after the manner of flat fifh, at the bottom.
Upon the rocks are plenty of mufcles, and fome other fmall fhell-fifh. There are alfo great numbers of fea-ftars ; fome fmall limpets; and large quantities of fponge; one fort of which, that is thrown on fhore by the fea, but not very common, has a moft delicate texture; and another, is the jpongia dlchotoma.
Many pretty Medufas heads were found upon the beach; and the flinking laplyfia or fea-harc, which, as mentioned by fome authors, has the property of taking off the hair by the acrimony of its juice j but this fort was deficient in this refpect.
Infects, though not numerous, are here in confiderable variety. Amongfl them are grafshoppcrs, butterflies, and feveral forts of fmall moths, finely variegated. There are two forts of dragon-flies, gad-flies, camel-flies; feveral forts of fpiders; and fome fcorpions; but the laft arc rather rare. The mofl troublefome, though not very numerous tribe of infects, are the mufquitoes ; and a large black ant, the pain of whofe bite is almofl intolerable, during the fhore time it lafls. The mufquitoes, alfo, make up the deficiency of their number, by the feverity of their venomous probofc/s.
The inhabitants whom we met with here, had little of, that fierce or wild appearance common to people in their fituation ; but, on the contrary, feemed mild and cheerful, without refcrvc or jcaloufy of flrangers.   This, however, may arife from their having little to lofe or care for.
With
wiry       With refpect to perfonal activity or genius, we can fay
«-i-' but little of" either.   They do not feem to poffcfs the firft in
any remarkable degree; and as for the laft, they have, to appearance, lefs than even the half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have not invention fufficient to make clothing for defending themfelves from the rigor of their climate, though furnhlied with the materials. The fmall ftick, rudely pointed, which one of them carried in his hand, was the only thing we faw that required any mechanical exertion, if we except the fixing on the feet of fome of them pieces of kangooroo fkin, tied with thongs; though it could not be learnt whether thefe were in ufe as fhoes, or only to defend fome fore. It muft be owned, however, tlicy are mafters of fome contrivance, in the manner of cutting their arms and bodies in lines of different lengths and directions, which are raifed confidcrably above the furface of the fkin, fo that it is difficult to guefs the method they ufe in executing this embroidery of their perfons. Their not ex-preffing that furprize which one might have expected from their feeing men fo much unlike themfelves, and things, to which, we were well affurcd, they had been hitherto utter ilrangcrs; their indifference for our prefents; and their general inattention ; were fufficient proofs of their not poffeff-ing any acutenefs of underftanding.
Their colour is a dull black, and not quite fo deep as that of the African Negroes. It fhould feem alfo, that they fometimes heightened their black colour, by fmutting their bodies ; as a mark was left behind on any clean fubftance, fuch as white paper, when they handled it. their hair, however, is perfectly woolly, and it is clotted or divided into fmall parcel?, like that of the Hottentots, with the ufe
of
<©f fome fort of greafc, mixed with a red paint or ochre, tJJJJ;^
■which they fmear in great abundance over their heads, v—v-->
This practice, as fome might imagine, has not the effect of' changing their hair into the frizzling texture we obferved; for, on examining the head of a boy, which appeared never to have been fmearcd, I found the hair to be of the fame kind. Their nofes, though not flat, are broad and full. The lower part of the face projects a good deal, as is the cafe of moft Indians I have feen; fo that a line let fall from the forehead, would cut off a much larger portion than it would in Europeans. Their eyes arc of a middling fize, with the white lefs clear than in us; and though not remarkably quick or piercing, fuch as give a frank cheerful call to the whole countenance. Their teeth are broad, but not equal, nor well fet; and, cither from nature or from dirt, not of fo true a white as is ufual among people of a black colour. Their mouths are rather wide; but this appearance feems heightened by wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in the fame manner as the hair on their heads. In other refpects, they are well-proportioned; though the belly feems rather projecting, this may be owing to the want of compreffion there, which few nations do not ufe, more or lefs. The pofture of which they feem fondeff, is to ftand with one fide forward, or the upper part of the body gently reclined, and one hand grafping (acrofs the back) the oppofite arm, which hangs down by the projecting fide.
What the ancient Poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees, is here realized. Some wretched conductions of flicks, covered with bark, which do not even deferve the name of huts, were indeed found near the fhore in the bay ; but thefe fecmed only to have been erected for tcm-
Vol. I. porary
lUliv    porary purpofes; and many of their largeft trees were con-
—v-' verted into more comfortable habitations.   Thefe had their
trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of fix or feven feet; and that they take up their abode in them fometimes, was evident from the hearths, made of clay, to contain the fire in the middle, leaving room for four or five perfons to fit round it*. At the fame time, thefe places of fhclter are durable; for they take care to leave one fide of the tree found, which is fufficient to keep it growing as luxuriantly as thofe which remain untouched.
The inhabitants of this place are, doubtlefs, from the fame flock with thofe of the Northern parts of New Holland. Though fome of the circumftances mentioned by Dampier, relative to thofe he met with on the Weftern coaft of this country, fuch as their defective fight, and want of forc-tceth, are not found here; and though Hawkcfworth/s account of thofe met with by Captain Cook on the Eafl fide, fhews alfo that they differ in many refpects; yet flill, upon the whole, I am perfuaded that diftance of place, entire feparation, diverfity of climate, and length of time, all concurring to operate, will account for greater differences, both as to their perfons and as to their cufloms, than really exift between our Van Diemen's Land natives, and thofe defcribed by Dampicr, and in Captain Cook's firft voyage. This is certain, that the figure of one of thofe feen in Endeavour River, and reprefented in Sidney Parkinfon's Journal of that voyage, very much rcfcmbles our vifitcrs in Adventure Bay. That there is not the like rcfcmblance in their language, is a cir-cumflance that need not create any difficulty.   For though
* Tafman, when in the bay of Frederick Henry, adjoining to Adventure Bay,, found two trees, one of which was two fathoms, and the other two fathoms and a half in girth, and fixty or fixty-iive feet high, from the root to the branches. See his Voyage, in Harris's Collection, Campbell's Edition, Vol. i. p. 326.
the
the agreement of the languages of people living diftant from r17^
each other, may be affumed as a ftrong argument for their v.,—' having fprung from one common fource j difagreement of language is by no means a proof of the contrary*.
However, we mult have a far more intimate acquaintance with the languages fpoken here and in the more Northern parts of New Holland, before we can be warranted to pronounce that they are totally different. Nay, we have good grounds for the oppofite opinion; for we found that the animal called kangooroo at Endeavour river, was known under the fame name here; and I need not obferve, that it is fcarccly poflible to fuppofe that this was not tranfmitted from one another, but accidentally adopted by two nations, differing in language and extraction. Befides, as it feems very improbable that the Van Diemen's Land inhabitants fhould have ever loft the ufe of canoes or failing veffels, if they had been originally conveyed thither by fea, we rnufl neceffarily admit that they, as well as the kangooroo itfelf, have been ftragglcrs by land from the more Northern parts
* The ingenious Author of Recherches fur les Americains, illuftrates the grounds of this aflertion in the following fatisfa&ory manner : " C'eft quclque chofe de furpre-fi nant, que la foule des idiomcs, tous varies cntr'cux, que parlcnt les naturels de *« l'Amerique Septentrionale. Qu'on rcduife ces idiomes a des racines, qu'on Us fim-«' plific, qu'on en fepare les dialeeles & les jargons derives, il en refulte toujours cinq " ou fix langues-mercs, refpeclivement incomprehenfibles. On a obferve la memo " fingularitc dans la Siberie & la Tartaric, ou le nombre des idiomcs, & des dialecles, cc eft cgalement multiplie j & rien n'eft plus commun, que d'y voir deux hordes voi-" fines qui ne fe comprennent point. On retrouve cette mtme multiplicite de jar-" gons dans toutes les Provinces de l'Amerique Meridionale." [He might alfo have included Africa.] " II y a beaucoup d'apparence que la vie fauvage, cu tlifperfant les *' hommes par petites troupes ifolecs dans des bois cpais, occafone n ccjfairement cette grande " diverfite des langucs, dont le nombre diminue a mefure que la fociete, en lailemblant *' les barbares vagabonds, en forme un corps de nation. Alors Tidiome le plus « riche, ou le moins pauvre cn mots, devient dominant, Sc abforbe les autrcs." Tom. i. p. 159, 160.
Oz of
/777-    of the country.   And if there be any force in this obferva-
January. J *
c—„--i tion, while it traces the origin of the people, it will, at the
fame time, ferve to fix another point, if Captain Cook and Captain Fourneaux have not already decided it, that New Holland is no where totally divided by the fea into iflands, as fome have imagined*".
As the New Hollanders feem all to be of the fame extraction, fo neither do I think there is any thing peculiar in them. On the contrary, they much refemble many of the inhabitants whom I have feen at the iflands Tanna and Manicola. Nay, there is even fome foundation for hazarding a fuppofttion, that they may have originally come from the fame place with all the inhabitants of the South Sea. For, of only about ten words which we could get from them, that which expreffes cold, differs little from that of New Zealand and Otaheite; the firft being Mallareede, the fecond Makkdreede, and the third Ma'reede. The reft cf our very fcanty Van Diemen's Land Vocabulary is as follows:
Quadne,	A woman*
Eve'rai,	The eye.
Muidje,	The nofe.
Ka'my,	The teeth, mouth, or tongue.
Lac'renne,	A fmall bird, a native of the ivoods hern
Koy'gee,	'The ear.
No'ongaa	Elevatedfears on the body.
Teegera,	To eat.
Toga'rago,	I muft be gone, or, / will go.
Their pronunciation is not difagreeable, but rather quick; though not more fo than is that of other nations of the
• Dampier feems to be of this opinion.   Vol. iii, p. 104. 125.
4 South
South Sea; and, if we may depend upon the affinity of lan- Tz777-
'       1 1 4 January.
guages as a clue to guide us in difcovering the origin of <-^
nations, I have no doubt but we fhall find, on a diligent inquiry, and when opportunities offer to collect accurately a fufficient number of thefe words, and to compare them, that all the people from New Holland, Eaftward to Eafter Ifland, have been derived from the fame common root
* Wc find Mr. Anderfon's notions on this fubjecf conformable to thofe of Mr. Marfden, who has remarked, " that one general language prevailed (however muti-" lated and changed in the courfe of time) throughout all this portion of the world, " from Madagafcar to the moft diftant difcoveries Eaftward $ of which the Malay is a " dialeef, much corrupted or refined by a mixture of other tongues. This very ex-<* tenfive fimilarity of language indicates a common origin of the inhabitants ; but «* the circumftances and progrefs of their feparation are wrapped in the darkeft veil of " obfeurity."   Hiftory of Sumatra, p. 35.
See alfo his very curious paper, read before the Society of Antiquaries, ami publifhed in their Archaologia, Vol. vi. p. 155; where his fentiments on this fubjecf arc explained more at large, and illuftrated by two Tables of correfponding Words..
CHAP.
chap. vii.
The Paffage from Vatt Diemens Land to New Zealand.— Employments in ^ueen Charlotte's Sound,—Tranfatlions with the Natives there.—Intelligence about the Maffacre of the Adventure s Boat's Crew.—Account of the Chief who headed the Party on that Occofion.—Of the two young Men who embark to attend Omai.—Various Re-marks on the Inhabitants.—Aflronomical and Nautical ,  , Obfervations.
,777.       A T eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, ^January. ^ J^~\ a light breeze fpringing up at Weft, we weighed an-Thurfday3o. chorj an(i pUt to fea fr0m Adventure Bay.   Soon after, the wind veered to the Southward, and increafed to a per feci: ftorm.   Its fury abated in the evening, when it veered to the Eaft and North Eaft.
This gale was indicated by the barometer, for the wind no fooner began to blow, than the mercury in the tube began to fall. Another remarkable thing attended the coming on of this wind, which was very faint at firft. It brought with it a degree of heat that was almoft intolerable. The mercury in the thermometer rofe, as it were inftantanc-oufly, from about 700 to near 900. This heat was of fo fhort a continuance, that it feemed to be wafted away before the breeze that brought it; fo that fome on board did not perceive it.
We
We puiTued our courfe to the Eaftward, without meeting   „ \7ii-
4 ° February.
with any thing worthy of note, till the night between the ■-
6th and 7th of February, when a marine belonging to the Friday/. Difcovery fell over-board, and was never feen afterward. This was the fecond misfortune of the kind that had happened to Captain Gierke fince he left England.
On the 10th, at four in the afternoon, wc difcovered the Monday 10. land of New Zealand. The part we faw proved to be Rock's Point, and bore South Eaft by South, about eight or nine leagues diftant. During this run from Van Diemen's Land, the wind, for the firft four or five days, was at North Eaft, North, and North North Weft, and blew, for the moft part, a gentle breeze. It afterward veered to South Eaft, where it remained twenty-four hours. It then came to Weft and' South Weft; in which points it continued, with very little deviation, till we reached New Zealand.
After making the land, I fleered for Cape Farewell, which at day-break, the next morning, bore South by Weft, diftant Tucfday \u about four leagues. At eight o'clock, it bore South Weft by South, about five leagues diftant; and, in this fituation, we had forty-five fathoms water over a fandy bottom. In rounding the Cape we had fifty fathoms, and the fame fort of bottom.
I now fleered for Stephens's Ifland., which we came up "with at nine o'clock at night; and at ten, next morning, an- Wcciner. ,^ chored in our old ftation, in Queen Charlotte's Sound *, Unwilling to lofe any time, our operations commenced that very afternoon, when we landed a number of empty water-calks, and began to clear a place where we might fet up
* See the Chart of Queen Charlotte's Sound, in HawkeAyorth's Collection, Vol. ii,
the •
die two obfervatorics, and tents for the reception of a guard, and of fuch of our people whofe bufinefs might make it neceffary for them to remain on fhore.
We had not been long at anchor before feveral canoes, filled with natives, came along-fidc of the fhips; but very few of them would venture on board ; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known to them all. There was one man in particular amongfl them, whom I had treated with remarkable kindnefs, during the whole of my flay when I was lad here. Yet now, neither profeflions of friendfhip, nor prefents, could prevail upon him to come into the fhip. This fhynefs was to be accounted for only upon this fuppofition, that they were apprehcnfive we had revifitcd their country, in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board my fhip now, whom they muft have remembered to have feen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, and whofe firft converfation with them, as they approached, generally turned on that fubjeel, they muft be well affured that I was no longer a ftrangcr to it. I thought it neceffary, therefore, to ufe every endeavour to affure them of the continuance of my friendfhip, and that I fhould not difturb them on that account. I do not know whether this had any weight with them; but certain it is, that they very foon laid afide all manner of reftraint and di ft raft.
On the 13th we fet up two tents, one from each fhip; on the fame fpot where we had pitched them formerly. The obfervatorics were at the fame time erected; and Meffrs. King and Bayly began their operations immediately, to find the rate of the time-keeper, and to make other obfervations. The remainder of the empty water-cafks were alfo fent on
fhore,
1777.
February.
T H E   PACIFIC   O C E A N.
121
iliore, with the cooper to trim, and a fufficient number of '777-
Februar
failors to fill them.   Two men were appointed to brew ^— fpruccbeer; and the carpenter and his crew were ordered to cut wood.   A boat, with a party of men, under the direction of one of the mates, was fent to collect, grafs for our cattle; and the people that remained on board were employed in refitting the fhip, and arranging the provifions. In this maimer, we were all profitably buficd during our flay.   For the protection of the party on fhore, I appointed a guard of ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen ; and Mr. King, and two or three petty officers, con-ftantly remained with them.   A boat was never fent to any confiderable diftance from the fhips without being armed, and under the direction of fuch officers as I could depend upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives. During my former vifits to this country, I had never taken fome of thefe precautions; nor were they, I firmly believe, more neceffary now than they had been formerly.   But after the tragical fate of the Adventure's boat's crew in this found, and of Captain Marion du Frefne, and of fome of his people, in the Bay of Iflands*, it was impoflible totally to diveft ourfelves of all apprehcnfion of experiencing a fimilar calamity.
If the natives entertained any fufpicion of our revenging thefe acts of barbarity, they very foon laid it afide. For, during the courfe of this day, a great number of families came from different parts of the coaft, and took up their re-fid en C€ clofe to us; fo that there was not a fpot in the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed our little en-
Vol. I.
* In 1772. 11
campmcnt.
Febnfar    campment.  This they left us in quiet poifellion of; but
—,-1 they came and took away the ruins of fome old huts that
were there, as materials for their new erections.
It is curious to obferve with what facility they build thefe occafional places of abode. I have feen above twenty of them erected on a fpot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with fhrubs and plants. They generally bring fome part of the materials with them j the reft they find upon the premifes. I was prefent when a number of people landed, and built one of thefe villages. The moment the canoes reached the fhore, the men leaped out, and at once took poffeflion of a piece of ground, by tearing up the plants and fhrubs, or flicking up fome part of the framing of a hut. They then returned to their canoes, and fecured their weapons, by fetting them up againfl a tree, or placing them in fuch a pofition, that they could be laid hold of in an in-ftant. I took particular notice that no one neglected this precaution. While the men were employed in railing the huts, the women were not idle. Some were flationed to take care of the canoes; others to fecurc the provifions, and the few utenfils in their poffeflion ; and the reft went to gather dry flicks, that a fire might be prepared for drefling their victuals. As to the children, I kept them, as alio fome of the more aged, fuflieiently occupied in fcrambling for beads, till I had emptied my pockets, and then I left them.
Thefe temporary habitations are abundantly fufficient to afford fhcltcr from the wind and rain, which is the only purpofe they are meant to anfwer. I obferved that, generally, if not always, the fame tribe or family, though it were ever fo large, affociatcd and built together; fo that we fre-7 quendy
quently faw a village, as well as their larger towns, divided Fe!b^r'y into different diflricts, by low pallifades, or fome fimilar w ^ mode of feparation.
The advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us, was not inconfiderable. For, every day, when the weather would permit, fome of them went out to catch fifh; and we generally got, by exchanges, a good fhare of the produce of their labours. This fupply, and what our own nets and lines afforded us, was fo ample, that we feldom were in want of fifh. Nor was there any deficiency of other refrefliments. Celery, fcurvy-grafs, and portable foup were boiled with the peafc and wheat, for both mips companies, every day during our whole flay; and they had fprucc-beer for their drink. So that, if any of our people had contracted the feeds of the fcurvy, fuch a regimen foon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here, there were only two invalids (and thefe on board the Refolution) upon the fick lifts in both fhips.
Befides the natives who took up their abode clofe to us, we were occafionally vifited by others of them, whofe rcfi-dcncc was not far off; and by fome who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiofitics, fifh, and women. The two firfl always came to a good market; which the latter did not. The feamcn had taken a kind of diflike to thefe people and were cither unwilling, or afraid, to affociate with them; which produced this good effect, that I knew no inuance of a man's quitting his ilation, to go to their habitations.
A connection with women I allow, becaufe I cannot prevent it; but never encourage, becaufe I always dread its confequences.   I know, indeed, that many men are of opi-
R z nion,
nion, that fuch an intercourfe is one of our greater! fecurities amongfl: favages; and perhaps they who, either from nc-cefTity or choice, are to remain and fettle with them, may find it fo. But with travellers and tranfient viflters, fuch as wc were, it is generally other wife; and, in our fituation, a connection with their women betrays more men than it faves. What elfc can be reafonably expected, fince all their views arc felfifh, without the leaft mixture of regard or attachment ? My own experience, at leaft, which hath been pretty extcnfive, hath not pointed out to me one inftance to the contrary.
Amongfl our occafional vifiters, was a chief named Ka-hoora, who, as 1 was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himfelf killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora, by what I heard from many of his countrymen, he feemed to be more feared than beloved amongfl them. Not fatisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, fome of them even importuned me to kill him: and, I believe, they were not a little furprifed that I did not liftcn to them j for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. But if I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole race; for the people of each hamlet or village, by turns, applied to me to deitroy the other. One would have almofl thought it impoftible, that fo ftriking a proof of the divided ftate in which this miferable people live, could have been affigncd. And yet I was fure that I did not mifconceive the meaning of thole who made thefe ftrange applications to me; for Omai, whofe language was a dialect of their own, and perfectly underflood all that they faid, was our interpreter.
3 On
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 125 On the 1 cth, I made an excurfion in my boat to look for   „ lp7*
^ J February.
grafs, and vifited the Hippah, or fortified village at the *--•
1   ur n       ■ r Saturday 15.
South Welt point or Motuara, and the places where our gardens had been planted on that ifland. There were no people at the former; but the houfes and pallifades had been rebuilt, and were now in a flate of good repair; and there were other evident marks of its having been inhabited not long before. It would be unneceffary, at prefent, to give a particular account of this Hippah, fuflicient notice having been taken of it in the Account of my firfl: Voyage, to which I refer*; and to the annexed drawing, which re-prefents part of the infide of the village, and will convey a better idea of it, than any written defcription.
When the Adventure arrived firft at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in 1773 f» Mr. Bayly fixed upon this place for making his obfervations; and he, and the people with him, at their leifure hours, planted feveral fpots with Englifh garden feeds. Not the leaft veftige of thefe now remained. It is probable that they had been all rooted out to make room for buildings, when the village was reinhabited: for, at all the other gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux, although now wholly over-run with the weeds of the country, we found cabbages, onions, leeks, purflain, radifhes, muftard, &c. and a few potatoes. Thefe potatoes, which were firft brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly improved by change of foil; and, with proper cultivation, would be fuperior to thofe produced in moft other countries, though the New Zealanders are fond of this root, it was evident that they had not taken the trouble to plant a fingle one (much lefs any other of the articles which wc had in-
* Hawkefworth.'s Collection, Vol. ii. p. 395, &c. Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 1-20.
troduccd) >
1777-     troduced): and if it were not for the difficulty of clearing
February, ' J °
\-.-1 ground where potatoes had been once planted, there would
not have been any now remaining.
Sunday 16. On the 16th, at day-break, I fet out with a party of men, in five boats, to collect: food for our cattle. Captain Clcrke, and feveral of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the found, and then landed on the Eafl fide, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grafs as loaded the two launches.
As wc returned down the found, we vifited Grafs Cove, the memorable fecne of the Maffacre of Captain Furncaux's people. Here I met with my old friend Pedro, who was almofl continually with me the lafl time I was in this found, and is mentioned in my Hiftory of that Voyage *. Ife, and another of his countrymen, received us on the beach, armed with the pa-too and fpear. Whether this form of reception was a mark of their courtcfy or of their fear, I cannot fay ; but I thought they betrayed manifeft figns of the latter. However, if they had any apprehenfions, a few prefents foon removed them, and brought down to the beach two or three more of the family; but the greatcft part of them remained out of fight.
Whilft we were at this place, our curiofity prompted us to inquire into the rircumftanccs attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen ; and Omai was made ufe of as our interpreter for this purpofe. Pedro, and the reft of the natives prefent, anfwered all the qucltions that were put to them on the fubjecl, without refervc, and like men who
* Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii, p. 15R, 159.
are
are under no dread of punifhment for a crime of which they are not guilty.   For we already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy tranfaclion. They told us, that while our people were fitting at dinner, fur-rounded by feveral of the natives, fome of the latter ftole, or matched from them, fome bread and fifh, for which they were beat.   This being refented, a quarrel enfucd, and two New Zealanders were fliot dead, by the only two mufquets that were fired.  For before our people had time to dif-charge a third, or to load again thofe that had been fired, the natives rufhed in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers^ and put them all to death.   Pedro and his companions, befides relating the hiftory of the maffacre, made us acquainted with the very fpot that was the fcenc of it.   It is at the corner of the cove on the right-hand- They pointed to the place of the fun, to mark to us at what hour, of the day it happened   and, according to this, it muft have been late in the afternoon.   They alfo fhewed us the place where the boat lay; and it appeared to be about two hundred yards diftant from that where the crew were feated. One of their number, a black fervant of Captain Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. -
We were afterward told that this black was the caufe of the quarrel, which was faid to have happened thus: One of the natives ftcaling fomething out of the boat, the Negro gave him a fevere blow with a flick. The cries of the fellow being heard b>y his countrymen at a diftance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people; who, before they had time to reach the boat, or to arm themfelves againft the unexpected impending danger, fell a facrifice to the fury of their favage aifail-ants.
The
The firft of thefe accounts, was confirmed by the teftimony of many of the natives, whom we converfed with, at different times, and who, I think, could have no intercft in deceiving us. The fecond manner of relating the tranfaclion, refts upon the authority of the young New Zealander, who chofe to abandon his country and go away with us, and who, consequently, could have no poflible view in difguif-ing the truth. All agreeing that the quarrel happened when the boat's crew were fitting at their meal, it is highly probable that both the accounts are true, as they perfectly coincide. For we may very naturally fuppofc, that while fome of the natives were ftcaling from the man who had been left in the boat, others of them might take the fame liberties with the property of our people who were on fhore.
Be this as it will, all agree, that the quarrel firft took its rife from fome thefts, in the commiflion of which the natives were detected. All agree, alfo, that there was no premeditated plan of bloodfhed, and that, if thefe thefts had not been, unfortunately, too haftily refented, no mifchief would have happened. For Kahoora's greatefl enemies, thofe who folicited his deftruction moft earneftly, at the fame time confeflcd that he had no intention to quarrel, much lefs to kill, till the fray had actually commenced. It alfo appears that the unhappy victims were under no fort of apprehenfion of their fate ; otherwife they never would have ventured to fit down to a repaft at fo confiderable a diftance from their boat, amongfl people who were the next moment to be their murderers. What became of the boat I never could learn. Some faid fhe was pulled to pieces and burnt; others told us that fhe was carried, they knew not whither, by a party of flrangcrs.
We
Wc flayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the FJjJ£JL
refl of the boats with grafs, celery, fcurvy-grafs, Sec. wc L—«-%
embarked to return to the fhips. We had prevailed upon Pedro to launch his canoe, and accompany us; but we had fcarcely put off from the fhore, when the wind began to blow very hard at North Weft, which obliged him to put back, We proceeded ourfelves, but it was with a good deal of difficulty that we could reach the fhips ; where fome of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the next morning; and Monday 171 it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it afterward blew a perfect ftorm, with abundance of rain, fo that no manner of work could go forward that day. In the evening the gale ceafed, and the wind having veered to the Eaft, brought with it fair weather.
The next day we re fumed our works; the natives ven- Tuefday 13, tured out to catch fifh; and Pedro, with all his family, came and took up his abode near us. This Chief's proper name is Matahouah; the other being given him by fome of my people during my laft Voyage, which I did not know till now. He was, however, equally well known amongfl his countrymen by both names.
On the 20th, in the forenoon, wc had another florm from Thurfdayzo, the North Well. Though this was not of fo long continuance as the former, the gufls of wind from the hills were far more violent, infomuch that we were obliged to ftrike the yards and top-mads to the very utmofl; and, even with all this precaution, it was with difficulty that we rode it out. Thefe norms are very frequent here, and fometimes violent and troublefome. The neighbouring mountains, which at thefe times are always loaded with vapours, not only increafe the force of the wind, but alter its direction in
Vol. I. S fuch
13° AVOYAGETO
*777*    fuch a manner, that no two blafts follow each other from
February.
«—v-' the fame quarter; and the nearer the fhore, the more their
effects are felt.
The next day we were vifited by a tribe or family, con-fifting of about thirty perfons, men, women, and children, who came from the upper part of the Sound. I had never feen them before. The name of their Chief was Toma-tongeauooranuc; a man of about forty-five years of age, with a cheerful open countenance. And, indeed, the reft of his tribe were, in general, the handfomeft of the New Zealand race I had ever met with.
By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had fettled themfelves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the fhips, and the encampment on fhore: but the latter became, by far, the moft favourite place of refort, while our people there were melting fome feal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of train-oil, than our friends here feemed to be. They relifhed the very fkimmings of the kettle, and dregs of the cafks; but a little of the pure ftinking oil was a delicious feaft, fo eagerly de-fired, that I fuppofe it is feldom enjoyed.
Having got on board as much hay and grafs as we judged fufficient to fcrve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood and water of both fhips, on Sunday 23. the 23d we ftruck our tents, and carried every thing off Monday 24. from the fhore; and next morning we weighed anchor, and flood out of the Cove. But the wind not being very fair, and finding that the tide of ebb would be fpent before we could get out of the Sound, we eaft anchor again a little without the ifland Motuara, to wait for a more favourable opportunity of putting into the ftrait.
While
While we were unmooring and getting under fail, To- F*777-matongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many more of the if natives, came to take their leave of us, or rather to obtain, if they could, fome additional prefents from us before we left them. Thefe two Chiefs became fuitors to me for fome goats and hogs. Accordingly, I gave to Matahouah two goats, a male and female with kid ; and to Tomaton-geauooranuc two pigs, a boar and a fow. They made me a promife not to kill them; though I muft own I put no great faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux fent on fhore here, and which foon after fell into the hands of the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but I could get no intelligence about the fate of thofe I had left in Weft Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, when I was here in the courfe of my laft Voyage. However, all the natives, whom I converfed witlr agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove; and I was afterward informed, by the two youths who went away with us, that Tiratou, a popular Chief amongfl them, had a great many cocks and hens in his feparate poffeffion, and one of the fows.
On my prefent arrival at this place, I fully intended to have left not only goats and hogs, but fheep, and a young bull, with two heifers, if I could have found either a Chief powerful enough to protect and keep them, or a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from thofe who would ignorantly attempt to deftroy them. But neither the one nor the other prefented itfelf to me. Tiratou was now abfent; and Tringoboohee, whom I had met with during my laft Voyage *, and who feemed to be a pcr-fon of much confequence at that time, had been killed five
* See Cock's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 157. S 2
months
February   monms a£°» Wltn about feventy perfons of his tribe; and I w—^—/ could not learn that there now remained in our neighbourhood any tribe, whofe numbers could fecure to them a fu-periority of power over the reft of their countrymen. To have given the animals to any of the natives who poffeffed no fuch power, would not have anfwered the intention. For in a country like this, where no man's property is fecure, they would foon have fallen a prey to different parties,, and been either feparated or killed; but moft likely both. This was fo evident, from what we had obferved fince our arrival, that I had rcfolved to leave no kind of animal, till Matahouah and the other Chief folicited me for the hogs and goats.   As I could fpare them, I let them go, to take, their chance.   I have, at different times, left in New Zealand, not lefs than ten or a dozen hogs, befides thofe put on fhore by Captain Furneaux.   It will be a little extraordinary, therefore, if this race fhould not increafe and be preferved here, either in a wild or in a domcftic ftate, or in both.
We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, before three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off to us from the South Eaft fide of the Sound; and a brills: trade wa3 carried on with them for the curiofities of this place. In one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom I have already mentioned as the leader of the party who cut off the crew of the Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had vifited us, without betraying the fmallcft appearance of fear. I was afhore when he now arrived, but had got on board juft as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me* prefently pointed him out, and folicited me to fhoot him* Not fatisfied with this, he addreffed himfelf to Kahoora,
threatening
threatening to be his executioner, if ever he prcfumcd to   _ *W«
" 1 February.
vifit us again. v~—'
The New Zealander paid fo little regard to thefe threats, that he returned, the next morning, with his whole family, TocfifcyajSi men, women, and children, to the number of twenty and upwards.   Omai was the firft who acquainted me with his being along-fide the fhip, and defired to know if he fhould afk him to come on board.   I told him he might; and accordingly he introduced the Chief into the cabin, faying, " There is Kahoora; kill him!"   But, as if he had forgot his former threats, or were afraid that I fhould call upon him to perform them, he immediately retired.   In a fhort time, however, he returned; and feeing the Chief unhurt, he expoftulated with me very earneftly, faying, <c Why do ft you not kill him ?   You tell me, if a man kills another in *{ England, that he is hanged for it.   This man has killed ct ten, and yet you will not kill him ; though many of his u countrymen defire it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though fpecious enough, having no weight with me, I defired him to afk the Chief, why he had killed Captain Furneaux's people ?   At this queftion, Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap: And, I firmly believe, he expected inftant death.   But no fooner was he affined of his fafcty, than he became cheerful.   He did not, however, feem willing to give me an anfwer to the queftion that had been put to him, till I had, again and again, repeated my promifc that he fhould not be hurt.   Then he ventured to tell us, That one of his countrymen having brought a flone hatchet to barter, the man, to whom it was offered, took it, and would neither return if, nor give any thing for it; on which the owner of 8 it
it matched up the bread as an equivalent; and then the quarrel began.
The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair, differed very little from what we had before learnt, from the reft of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow efcapc he had, during the fray; a mufquet being levelled at him, which he avoided by fkulking behind the boat; and another man, who flood clofe to him, was fhot dead. As foon as the mufquet was difcharged, he inftantly feized the opportunity to attack Mr. Rowe, who commanded the party, and who defended himfelf with his hanger (with which he wounded Kahoora in the arm), till he was overpowered by numbers.
Mr. Burney, who was fent by Captain Furneaux the next day*, with an armed party, to look for his miffing people, upon discovering the horrid proofs of their fhocking fate, had fired feveral vollies amongfl the crowds of natives who flill remained affcmblcd on the fpot, and were, probably, partaking of the deteftable banquet. It was natural to fup-pofe that he had not fired in vain ; and that, therefore, fome of the murderers and devourers of our unhappy countrymen had fullered under our juft refentment. Upon inquiry, however, into this matter, not only from Kahoora, but from others who had opportunities of knowing, it appeared that our fuppofition was groundlefs, and that not one of the fhot fired by Mr. Burncy's people had taken effect, fo as to kill, or even to hurt, a fingle perfon.
It was evident, that moft of the natives we had met with fince our arrival, as they knew I was fully acquainted with
* See his Narrative.   Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 255 — 259.
the
the hiftory of the maffacre, expected I fhould avenge it with pjjjjjji
the death of Kahoora.   And many of them feemed not only 1-»—-
to wifh it, but expreffed their furprize at my forbearance. As he could not be ignorant of this, it was a matter of wonder to me, that he put himfelf fo often in my power. When he vifited us while the fhips lay in the Cove, confiding in the number of his friends that accompanied him, he might think himfelf fafe. But his two laft vifits had been made under fuch circumftances, that he could no longer rely upon this. We were then at anchor in the entrance of the Sound, and at fome diftance from any fhore ; fo that he could not have any afliftance from thence, nor flatter himfelf he could have the means of making his efcape, had I determined to detain him. And yet, after his firft fears, on being interrogated, were over, he was fo far from entertaining any uneafy fenfations, that, on feeing a portrait of one of his countrymen hanging up in the cabin, he defired to have his own portrait drawn ; and fat till Mr. Webber had finifhed it, without marking the leaft impatience. I muft confefs, I admired his courage, and was not a little pleafed to obferve the extent of the confidence he put in me. For he placed his whole fafety in the declarations I had uniformly made to thofe who folicited his death, That I had always been a friend to them all, and would continue fo, unlefs they gave me caufe to act otherwifc: that as to their inhuman treatment of our people, I fhould think no more of it, the tranfaetion having happened long ago, and when I was not prefent; but that, if ever they made a fecond attempt of that kind, they might reft affured of feeling the weight of my refentment.
For fome time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expreffed a defire to take one of the natives with him to
q his
',777. his own country. We had not been there many days, bete bruary. ■ '
v.—^i^j fore he had an opportunity of being gratified in this; for a youth about feventccn or eighteen years of age, named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him ; and took up his rcfidence on board. I paid little attention to this at firft, imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he could from Omai. At length, finding that he was fixed in his refolution to go with us, and having learnt that he was the only fon of a deceafed Chief, and that his mother, flill living, was a woman much refpected here, I was apprehenfive that Omai had deceived him and his friends, by giving them hopes and affurances of his being fent back. I therefore caufed it to be made known to them all, that if the young man went away with us, he would never return. But this declaration feemed to make no fort of impreflion. The afternoon before we left the Cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came on board, to receive her laft prefent from Omai. The fame evening, fhe and Taweiharooa parted, with all the marks of tender affection that might be expected between a parent and a child, who were never to meet again. But fhe faid fhe would cry no more; and, fure enough, fhe kept her word. For when flic returned the next morning, to take her laft farewell of him, all the time fhe was on board fhe remained quite cheerful, and went away wholly unconcerned.
That Taweiharooa might be fent away in a manner becoming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his fervant; and, with this view, as we fuppofed, he remained on board till we were about to fail, when his friends took him afhore. However, his place was fupplied, next morning, by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of
age,
age, named Kokoa. He was pre Tented to me by his own FJ^r7u7a* father, who, I believe, would have parted with his dog v—> with far lefs indifference. The very Utile clothing the boy had, he ftript him of, and left him as naked as he was born. It was to no purpofe that I endeavoured to convince thefe people of the improbability, or rather of the impoffibility, of thefe youths ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearefl relations, feemed to trouble themfelves about their future fate. Since this was the cafe, and I was well fatisfied that the boys would be no lofers by exchange of place, I the more readily gave my confent to their going.
From my own obfcrvations, and from the information of Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New Zealanders mufl live under perpetual apprehenfions of being deftroyed by each other; there being few of their tribes that have not, as they think, fuflained wrongs from fome other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. And, perhaps, the defire of a good meal may be no fmall incitement. I am told that many years will fometimes elapfc, before a favourable opportunity happens, and that the fon never lofes fight of an injury that has been done to his father. Their method of executing their horrible defigns, is by Healing upon the adverfe party in the night; and if they find them unguarded (which, however, I believe, is very feldom the cafe), they kill every one indiscriminately ; not even fparing the women and children. When the maffacre is completed, they either fea (I and gorge themfelves on the fpot, or carry off as many of the dead bodies as they can, and devour them at home, with .acts of brutality too mocking, to be defcribed. If they are difcovered before they can execute their bloody purpofe, they generally Ileal off again; and fometimes arc purfucd and
Vol. I. T attacked
attacked by the other party, in their turn. To give quarter, or to take prifoncrs, makes no part of their military law; fo that the vanquished can only fave their lives by flight. This perpetual Mate of war, and deftructive method of conducting it, operates fo flrongly in producing habitual cir-'cumfpection, that one hardly ever finds a New Zealandcr off his guard, either by night or by day. Indeed, no other man can have fuch powerful motives to be vigilant, as the pre-fervation both of body and of foul depends upon it. For, according to their fyftem of belief, the foul of the man whofe flefh is devoured by the enemy, is doomed to a perpetual fire, while the foul of the man whofe body has been refcucd from thofe who killed him, as well as the fouls of all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the Gods. I afked, Whether they eat the flefli of fuch of their friends as had been killed in war, but whofe bodies were faved from falling into the enemy's hands ? They feemed furprifed at the queftion, which they anfwercd in the negative, cxprcfling fome abhorrence at the very idea. Their common method of difpofing of their dead, is by depofit-Jng their bodies in the earth; but if they have more of their flaughtered enemies than they can eat, they throw them into the fea.
They have no fuch thing as morals, or other places of public worfhip; nor do they ever aflemble together with this view. But they have Priefts, who alone addrefs the Gods in prayers, for the profperity of their temporal affairs; fuch as an enterprife againft a hoftile tribe, a fifhing party, or the like.
Whatever the principles of their religion may be, of which we remain very ignorant, its inftructions are very ftrongly
inculcated
inculcated into them from their very infancy.   Of this I    ' p77-
J J February.
faw a remarkable inftancc, in the youth who was firft de- <-r—
ftincd to accompany Taweiharooa. He refrained from eating the greatefl part of the day, on account of his hair being cut; though every method was tried to induce him to break his refolution \ and he was tempted with the offer of fuch victuals as he was known to eflecm the mofl. He faid, if he eat any thing that day, the Eatooa would kill him. However, towards evening, the cravings of nature got the better of the precepts of his religion, and he eat, though but fparingly. I had often conjectured, before this, that they had fome fuperftitious notions about their hair, having frequently obferved quantities of it tied to the branches of trees near fome of their habitations; but what thefe notions arc, I never could learn.
Notwithstanding the divided and hollilc ftate in which the New Zealanders live, travelling ftrangers, who come with no ill defign, are well received and entertained during their flay; which, however, it is expected, will be no longer than is rcquifite to tranfact the bufinef's they come upon. Thus it is that a trade for poenammoo, or green talc, is carried on throughout the whole northern ifland. For they tell us, that there is none of this ftone to be found, but at a place which bears its name, fome where about the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and not above one or two days journey, at moft, from the ftation of our fhips. I regretted much that I could not fpare time fufficient for paying a vifit to the place i as wTe were told a hundred fabulous (lories about this ftone, not one of which carried with it the leaft probability of truth, though fome of their moft fenfible men would have us believe them. One of thefe ftories is, that this ftone is originally a fifh, which they ftrike with a gig
T 2 in
\777-    in the water, tie a rope to it, and drag it to the fhore, to
which they fatten it, and it afterward becomes flone. As they all agree, that it is fifhed out of a large lake, or collection of waters, the moft probable conjecture is, that it is brought from the mountains, and depofited in the water, by the torrents. This lake is called by the natives Tavai Tocnammoo\ that is, the water of Green Talc •, and it is only the adjoining part of the country, and not the whole Southern ifland of New Zealand, that is known to them by the name which hath been given to it on my chart *..
Polygamy is allowed amongfl thefe people; and it is not uncommon for a man to have two or three wives. The women arc marriageable at a very early age; and it fhould feem, that one who is unmarried, is but in a forlorn ftate. She can with difficulty get a fubfiftence ; at leaft, fhe is, in a great meafure, without a protector, though in conftant want of a powerful one.
The New Zealanders feem to be a people perfectly fatif-ftcd with the little knowledge they are matters of, without attempting, in the leaft, to improve it. Nor are they remarkably curious, either in their obfervations, or their inquiries. New objects do not ftrike them with fuch a degree of fur prize as one would naturally expect; nor do they even fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, who was a great favourite with them, would fometimes attract a circle about him ; but they feemed to liften to his fpeeches, like perfons who neither underftood, nor wiihed to under-fland, what they heard.
One day, on our inquiring of Taweiharooa, how many /hips, fuch as ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's
• Sec Captain Cook's chart of New Zealand, in Hawkef. Coll, vol. ii. p. 281.
7
Sound,
Sound, or in any part of its neighbourhood? He began with FeTb7r^;y
giving an account of one absolutely unknown to us. This, he <-r—t
faid, had put into a port on the North Weft coaft of Teerawittc, but a very few years before I arrived in the Sound in the Endeavour, which the New Zealanders diftinguifh, by calling Tupia's fhip. At firft, I thought he might have been miftaken as to the time and place ; and that the fhip in queftion might be either Monfieur Surville's, who is faid to have touched upon the North Eaft coaft of Eaheinomauwe, the fame year I was there in the Endeavour; or elfe Monfieur Marion du Frefne's, who was in the Bay of Iflands, on the fame coaft, a few years after.   But he allured us, that he was not miftaken, either as to the time, or as to the place of this fhip's arrival; and that it was well known to every body about Queen Charlotte's Sound and Teerawitte. He faid, that the Captain of her, during his flay here, cohabited with a woman of the country; and that fhe had a fon by him flill living, and about the age of Kokoa ; who, though not born then, feemed to be equally well acquainted with the flory.   We were alfo informed by Taweiharooa, that this fhip firft introduced the venereal difeafe amongfl the New Zealanders.   I wifli that fubfequent vifiters from Europe may not have their fhare of guilt, in leaving fo dreadful a remembrance of them amongfl this unhappy race.   The diforder now is but too common here ;  though they do not feem to regard it ; faying, that its effects are not near fo pernicious at prefent, as they were at its firft appearance.   The only method, as far as I ever heard, that they make ufe of as a remedy, is by giving the patient the ufe of a fort of hot bath, which they produce by the fleam of certain green plants laid over hot ftones.
I regretted
1^2
A   VOYAGE - TO
_I777-        I regretted much that wc did not hear of this fhip while
February, 0 ■
a,—,------1 we were in the Sound 5 as, by means of Omai, we might
have had full and correct information about her from eye-witncfles. For Taweiharooa's account was only from what; he had been told, and therefore liable to many miftakes. I have not the leaft doubt, however, that his teftimony may fo far be depended upon, as to induce us to believe, that a fhip really had been at Teerawitte prior to my arrival in the Endeavour, as it correfponds with what I had formerly heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the fecond time L vifited New Zealand, during my laft voyage, when we were continually making inquiries about the Adventure, after our feparation, fome of the natives informed us of a fhip's having been in a port on the coaft of Teerawitte. But, at that time, we thought we muft have mifunderftood them, and took no notice of the intelligence.
The arrival of this unknown fhip has been marked by the New Zealanders with more caufes of remembrance, than the unhappy one juft mentioned. Taweiharooa told us, their country was indebted to her people for the prefent of an animal, which they left behind them. But as he had not feen it himfelf, no fort of judgment could be formed from his defcription, of what kind it was.
We had another piece of intelligence from him, more correctly given, though not confirmed by our own obfcrvations, that there are makes and lizards there of an enormous fize. He defcribed the latter as being eight feet in length, and as big round as a man's body. He faid, they fometimes feize and devour men; that they burrow in the ground ; and that they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the holes. We could not be miftaken as to the animal; for, * with
with his own hand, he drew a very good reprcfentation of a lizard on a piece of paper; as alfo of a make, in order to fhew what he meant.
Though much has been faid, in the Narratives of my Two former Voyages, about this country and its inhabitants, Mr. Andcrfon's Remarks, as ferving either to confirm or to correct our former accounts, may not be fuperfluous. He had been three times with me in Queen -Charlotte's Sound, during my laft Voyage; and, after this fourth vifit, what he thought proper to record, may be confidercd as the refult of fufficient obfervation. The Reader will find it in the next Chapter j and I have nothing farther to add, before I quit New Zealand, but to give fome account of the agronomical and nautical obfervations made during our flay there.
The Longitude of the Obfervatory in Ship Cove, by a mean of 103 fets of obfervations, each fet confiding of fix or more obferved diftances, was    - 1740 25'r^" Eaft.
By the time-keeper, at Greenwich rate, it
was       -        -       -      -      -      -       175 26 30
By ditto, at the Cape rate, it was      -       174 56 12
Variation of the compafs, being the mean
of fix needles, obferved on board the fhip    12 40  o Eafl.
By the fame needles on fhore, it was      -   13 53 o
The dip of the South end, obferved on
more, was     -     -     -      -      -     63 42 o
By a mean of the remits of eleven days obfervations, the time-keeper was too flow for mean time, on February 22 at noon, by n h 50' 37",396 ; and fhe was found to be lofing
on
on mean time, at the rate of 2",q13 per day. From this rate the longitude will be computed, till fome other opportunity offers to afcertain her rate anew. The aflronomical clock* with the fame length of pendulum as at Greenwich, was found to be lofing on fidereal time 4o",23Q per day.
It will not be amifs to mention, that the longitude, by lunar obfervations, as above, differs only 6' 45" from what Mr. Wales made it during my laft Voyage ^ his being fo much more to the Weft, or 1740 18' 30".
The latitude of Ship Cove is 410 6' o", as found by Mr.. Wales*
CHAP.
c h a p.   viil
Mr. Anderfons Remarks on the Country near £$ueeu Charlottes Sound.—The Soil.—Climate.— Weather.— Winds.—Trees—Plants.—Birds —Fijh.—Other Animals.—Of the Inhabita?its.—Defcription of their Perfons.—Their Drefs.—Ornaments, —Habitations.—Boats* —Food and Cookery.—Arts.— Weapons. — Cruelty to Prifoners.—Various Cufloms,—Specimen of their Language.
THE land every where about Queen Charlotte's Sound is uncommonly mountainous, riling immediately from the fea into large hills with blunted tops. At confiderable diflanccs are valleys, or rather impreflions on the fides of the hills, which are not deep; each terminating toward the fea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or fandy beach; behind which are fmall flats, where the natives generally build their huts, at the fame time hauling their canoes upon the beaches. This fituation is the more convenient, as in every cove a brook of very fine water (in which arc fome fmall trout) empties itfelf into the fea.
The bafes of thefe mountains, at leafl toward the fhore, are conftittited of a brittle, ycllowifh fand-ftone, which acquires a bluifh eaft, where the fea wafhes it.   It runs, at fome places, in horizontal, and, at other places, in oblique Jiratai being frequently divided, at fmall diftances, by thin Vol, I. U veins
1777.     veins of coarfe quartz, which commonly follow the direction
February. 1 J
^—w—of the other; though they fometimes interfect it. The mould, or foil, which covers this, is alfo of a yellowifh eaft, not unlike marl; and is commonly from a foot to two, or more, in thicknefs.
The quality of this foil is beft indicated by the luxuriant growth of its productions. For the hills (except a few toward the fea, which are covered with fmaller bufties) are one continued fore ft of lofty trees, flourilhing with a vigour almoft fuperior to any thing that imagination can conceive, and affording an auguft profpect to thofe who are delighted with the grand and beautiful works of nature.
The agreeable temperature of the climate, no doubt, contributes much to this uncommon ftrength in vegetation. For, at this time, though anfwering to our month of Auguft, the weather was never difagreeably warm; nor did it raife the thermometer higher than 66°. The winter, alfo, feems equally mild with refpect to cold : for in June 1773, which correfponds to our December, the mercury never fell lower than 480; and the trees, at that time, retained their verdure, as if in the Summer feafon ; fo that, I belicvc0 their foliage is never fhed, till pufhed off by the fuccceding leaves in fpring.
The weather, in general, is good; but fometimes windy, with heavy rain; which, however, never lafts above a day ; nor does it appear that it is ever exceffive. For there are no marks of torrents rufhing down the hills, as in many countries ; and the brooks, if we may judge from their channels, feem never to be greatly increafed. I have obferved, in the four different times of my being here, that the winds
from
from the South Eaftward are commonly moderate, but at- Wfc
1   t      ' 1      1 4 February.
tended with cloudy weather, or rain. The South Weft u—v~-» winds blow very ftrong, and are alfo attended with rain; but they feldom laft long. The North Weft winds are the moft prevailing; and though often pretty ftrong, are almofl: conftantly connected with fine weather. In fhort, the only obftaclc to this being one of the fineft countries upon earth, is its great hillinefs; which, allowing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper for pafturage than flat land; and ftill more improper for cultivation, which could never be effected here by the plough.
The large trees which cover the hills arc chiefly of two forts. One of them, of the fize of our largeft firs, grows much after their manner; but the leaves, and fmall berries on their points, are much liker the yew. It was this which fupplied the place of fpruce in making beer ; which wc did with a ftrong decoction of its leaves, fermented with treacle or fugar. And this liquor, when well prepared, was acknowledged to be little inferior to the American fpruce beer, by thofe who had experience of both. The other fort of tree is not unlike a maple; and grows often to a great fize; but it only ferved for fuel, as the wood, both of this and of the preceding, was found to be rather too heavy for mafts, yards, and other fimilar repairs.
There is a greater variety of trees on the fmall flat fpots behind the beaches. Amongfl thefe are two that bear a kind of plum of the fize of prunes ; the one yellow, called karraca; and the other black, called maltao; but neither of them of a very agreeable tafte ; though the natives cat both, and our people did the fame.   Thofe of the firfl fort grow
U z or*
*#7-     on fmall trees, always facing the fea: but the others belons
—v--' to larger trees that ft and farther within the wood, and which
we frequently cut down for fuel.
A fpecies of Philadelphia grows on the eminences which jut out into the fea ; and alfo a tree bearing flowers almoft like myrtle, with roundifh fpotted leaves of a difagrecable fmelf. We drank the leaves of the Philadelphia as tea ; and found that they had a pleafant tafte and fmell, and might make an excellent fubftitute for the oriental fort *.
Among other plants that were ufeful to us, may be reckoned wild celery, which grows plentifully in almoft every cove; efpecially if the natives have ever refided there before; and one that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs, though entirely different from the plant to which we give that name. This, however, is far preferable to ours for common ufe; and may be known by its jagged leaves, and fmall clufters of white flowers on the top. Both forts were boiled every morning, with wheat ground in a mill, and with portable foup, for the people's breakfaft; and alfo amongfl their peafc-foup, for dinner. Sometimes they were ufed as iallad, or dreffed as greens. In all which ways they are good; and, together with the fifh, with which we were constantly fnpphed, they formed a fort of refrefhment, perhaps little inferior to what is to be met with in places moft noted by navigators for plentiful fupplies of animal and vegetable food.
Amongfl the known kinds of plants met with here, are common and rough bindweed ; night-lhade and nettles, both
* See a reprefentation of this,, Plate N° XXII. in Captain Cook's Account of his Second Voyage, Vol. i. p. 100.
which
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. i4< which qtow to the fize of fmall trees ; a fhrubby fpeedwcll, if?7:
& J    1 February.
found near all the beaches; fow-thiftlcs, virgin's bower, w—v~—' vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, and crane's-bill: alfo cudweed, rufh.es, bull-rufhes, flax:, all-heal, American night-fhade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-bright, and groundfel; but the fpecies of each are different from any we have in Europe* There is alio polypody, fpleenwort, and about twenty other different forts of ferns, entirely peculiar to the place; with feveral forts of moffes, either rare, or produced only here; befides a great number of other plants, whofe ufes are not yet known, and fubjects fit only for botanical books.
Of thefe, however, there is one which deferves particular notice here, as the natives make their garments of it, and it produces a fine fiiky flax, fuperior in appearance to any thing we have; and probably, at leafl, as ftrong. It grows every where near the fea, and in fome places a confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, with fedge like leaves* bearing, on a long ftalk, yellowifh flowers, which are fuc-cecded by a long roundifh pod, filled with very thin fhining black feeds. A fpecies of long pepper is found in great plenty; but it has little of the aromatic flavour that makes fpices valuable ; and a tree much like a palm at a diflance, is pretty frequent in the woods, though the deceit appears as you come near it. It is remarkable that, as the greateft part of the trees and plants had, at this time, loft their flowers, we perceived they Were generally of the berry-bearing kind ; of which, and other feeds, 1 brought away about thirty different forts. Of thefe, one in particular* which bears a red berry, is much like the fuppie-jack, and grows about the trees, ftretching from one to another, in fuch a manner as to render the woods almoft wholly im-paflable.
The
'777-        The birds, of which there is a tolerable flock, as well as
February.
—t the vegetable productions, are almofl entirely peculiar to the place. And though it be difficult to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood, and the climbing plants, that render travelling, for plcafure alone, uncommonly fatiguing, yet a perfon, by remaining in one place, may fhoot as many in a day as would ferve fix or eight others. The principal forts are, large brown parrots, with white or greyifh heads j green parroquets, with red foreheads ; large wood pigeons, brown above, with white bellies, the reft green, and the bill and feet red. Two forts of cuckoos, one as large as our common fort, of a brown colour, variegated with black; the other not larger than a fparrow, of a fplendid green eafl above, and elegantly varied with waves of golden, green, brown^and white colours below. Both thefe arc fcarce; but feveral others are in greater plenty; one of which, of a black colour, with a grecnifh call, is remarkable for having a tuft of white curled feathers hanging under the throat, and was called the Poy bird * by our people. Another fort, rather fmaller, is black, with a brown back and wings, and two fmall gills under the root of the bill. This we called the fmall wattle bird, to diftinguifh it from another, which we called the large one, of the lize of a common pigeon, with two large yellow and purple membranes alfo, at the root of the bill. It is black, or rather blue, and has no-refemblance of the other but in name; for the bill is thick, fhort, and crooked, and has altogether an uncommon appearance. A grofs-beak, about the fize of a thrum, of a brown colour, with a reddifh tail, is frequent; as is alfo a fmall grecnifh bird, which
* See a drawing of this bird, Plate N° LII. in Captain Cook's Account of his Second Voyage, Vol. i. p. 97. It had this name from its tuft of feathers, refembling the white {flower? ufed as ornaments in the ears at Otaheite, and called there Poowa.
2 is
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. iSi is almofl: the only mufical one here, but is fufficient by itfelf '777-
' * J'e binary.
to fill the woods with a melody, that is not only fwcet, but -v— fo varied, that one would imagine he was furrounded by a hundred different forts of birds, when the little warbler is near. From this eircumflance we named it the mocking bird. There are likewife three or four forts of fmaller birds; one of which, in figure and tamcnefs, exactly re-fembles our robin, but is black where that is brown, and white where that is red. Another differs but little from this* except in being fmaller; and a third fort has a long tail, which it expands as a fan on coming near, and makes a chirping noile when it perches. King-nfhers are feen, though rare, and are about the fize of our Englifh ones, but with an inferior plumage.
About the rocks are feen black fea-pies with red bills; and crefled fhags of a leaden colour, with fmall black fpots on the wings and moulders, and the reft of the upper part, of a velvet black tinged with green. We frequently fhot both thefe, and alfo a more common fort of fhags, black above and white underneath, that build their nefls upon trees, on which fometimes a dozen or more fit at once. There are alfo, about the fhore, a few fea-gulls; fome blue herons; and fometimes, though very rarely, wild ducks; a fmall fandy coloured plover, and fome fand larks. And fmall penguins black above, with a white belly, as well as numbers of little black divers, fwim often about the Sound. We like-wife killed tw7o or three rails of a brown or yellowifh colour, variegated with black, which feed about the fmall brooks, and arc nearly as large as a common fowl. No other fort of game wrasfeen, except a fingle fnipc, which was fliot, and differs but little from that of Europe.
The
Februa'r ^*1C PrulclPal ^m wc caught by the Seine were mullets \——yr—J and elephant filh, with a few foles and flounders; but thofe that the natives moflly fupplied us with, were a fort of fea-brcam of a filver colour with a black fpot on the neck, large Conger eels, and a fifh in fhape much like the bream, but fo large as to weigh five, fix, or feven pounds. It is blackifh with thick lips, and called Mogge by the natives. With hook and line we caught chiefly a blackifh fifh of the fize of a haddock, called cole-fifh by the fcamen, but differing much from that known by the fame name in Europe; and another of the fame fize, of a reddifh colour with a Hltie beard, which wc called night walkers, from the greatefl number being caught in the night. Sometimes we got a fort of fmall falmon, gurnards, fkate, andnurfes; and the natives, now and then, brought hake, paracutas, a fmall fort of mackerel, parrot-fifh, and leather-jackets; befides another fifh which is very rare, fhaped almofl like a dolphin, of a black colour, with ftrong bony jaws, and the backfin, as well as. thofe oppofite to it, much lengthened at the end. All thefe forts, except the laft, which we did not try, are excellent to eat; but the Mogge, fmall falmon, and cole-fifh arc fu per tor to the reft.
The rocks are abundantly furnifhed with great quantities of excellent mufcles ; one fort of which, that is not very common, meafures above a foot in length. There are alfo cockles buried in the fand of the fmall beaches; and in fome places oyfters, which, though very fmall, are well tailed. Of other fhcll-fifh there are ten or twelve forts, fuch as peri-<winckles, wilks, limpets, and fome very beautiful fea-ears; alfo another fort which flick to the weeds; with fome other things, as fea-eggs, ftar-fiib, &c. feveral of which are peculiar
culiar to the place. The natives likewifc fometimes brought us very fine cray-fifh, equal to our largefl lobflers, and cuttle fifh, which they eat themfelves.
Infects are very rare. Of thefe, we only faw two forts of dragon-flies, fome butterflies, fmall grafhoppers, feveral forts of fpiders, fome fmall black ants, and vafl numbers of fcorpion flics, with whofe chirping the woods refound. The only noxious one is the fand-fly, very numerous here, and almofl as troublefome as the mufquitoe for we found no reptile here, except two or three forts of fmall harmlefs lizards *.
It is remarkable, that, in this extenfive land, there fhould not even be the traces of any quadruped, only excepting a few rats, and a fort of fox-dog, which is a domcflic animal with the natives.
Neither is there any mineral worth notice, but a green jafper or ferpent-flone, of which the New Zealanders make their tools and ornaments. This is efleemed a precious article by them ; and they have fome fupcrflitious notions about the method of its generation, which we could not perfectly underftand. It is plain, however, that wherever it may be found (which, they fay, is in the channel of a large river far to the Southward), it is difpofed in the earth in thin layers, or, perhaps, in detached pieces, like our flints; for the edges of thofe pieces, which have not been cut, are covered with a whitifh crufl like thefe. A piece of this fort was purchafed, about eighteen inches long, a foot broad, and near two inches thick j which yet feemed to be only the fragment of a larger piece.
* In a feparate memorandum-book, Mr. Anderfon mentions the monftrous animal cf the lizard kind, defcribed by the two boys after they left the ifland.
Vol. I. X The
A   V O YAGE TO
The natives do not exceed the common flature of Europeans; and, in general, are not fo well made, efpecially about the limbs. This is, perhaps, the effect of fitting, for the. moft part, on their hams; and of being confined, by the hilly difpofnionof the country, from ufing that fort of ex-ercife which contributes to render the body flraight and well-proportioned. There are, however, feveral exceptions to this •, and fome are remarkable for their large bones and mufcles ; but few that I have feen are corpulent.
Their colour is of different calls, from a pretty deep black.to a yellowifh or olive tinge ; and their features alfo are various-, fome refembling Europeans. But, in general, their faces are round, with their lips full, and alfo their nofes toward the point; though the firfl are not uncommonly thick, nor the lafl flat. I do not, however, recollect to have feen an in-flance of the true aquiline nofe amongfl them. Their teeth are commonly broad, white, and well fet; and their eyes large, with a very free motion, which feems the effect of habit. Their hair is black, flraight, and flrong, commonly cut fhort on the hind part, with the refl tied on the crown of the head: but fome have it of a curling difpofition, or of a brown colour. In the young, the countenance is generally free or open ; but in many of the; men it has a fe-rious eafl, and fometimes a fullennefs or refervc, efpecially if they are flrangers. The women arc, in general, fmaller than the men ; but have few peculiar graces, either in form or features, to diflinguifh them.
The drefs of both fexes is alike ; and confifls of an oblong garment about five feet long, and four broad, made from the fiiky flax already mentioned. This feems to be their moll material and complex manufacture, which is executed
4 b7
by knotting; and their work is often ornamented with pieces of dog-fkin, or chequered at the corners. They bring two corners of this, garment over the moulders, and fallen it on the breaft with the other part, which covers the body; and about the belly, it is again tied with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with large feathers of birds (wheh feem to be wrought into the piece of cloth when it is made), or with dog-fkin; and that alone we have feen worn as a covering. Over this garment many of them wear mats, which reach from the moulders to near the heels. But the moft common outer-covering is a quantity of the above fedgy plant, badly drelTed, which they faften on a firing to a confiderable length, and, throwing it about the fhoulders, let it fall down on all fides, as far as the middle of the thighs. When they fit down with this upon them, either in their boats, or upon the fhore, it would be difficult to diflinguifh them from large grey flones, if their black heads, projecting beyond their coverings, did not engage one to a ftricter examination.
By way of ornament, they fix in their heads feathers, or combs of bone, or wood, adorned with pearl fhell, or the thin inner fkin of fome leaf. And in the ears, both of men and women, which are pierced, or rather flit, are hung fmall pieces of jafper, bits of cloth, or beads when they can get them. A few alfo have the feptum of the nofe bored in its lower part; but no ornament was worn there that we faw; though one man paffed a twig through it, to fhew us that it was fometimes ufed for that purpofe. They wear long beards, but are fond of having them fhaved.
Some are punctured or ftaincd in the face with curious fpiral and other figures, of a black or deep blue colour;
X 2 but
\777>    but it is doubtful whether this be ornamental, or intended
as a mark of particular diilinction ; and the women, who are marked fo, have the puncture only on their lips, or a fmall fpot on their chins. Both fcxes often befmear their faces and heads with a red paint, which feems to be a martial ochre mixed with greale ; and the women fometimes wear necklaces of mark's teeth, or bunches of long beads, which feem to be made of the leg-bones of fmall birds, or a particular ihell. A few alfo have fmall triangular aprons adorned with the feathers of parrots, or bits of pearl fhells, furnilhed with a double or treble fet of cords to fallen them about the waiit. I have fometimes feen caps or bonnets made of the feathers of birds, which may be reckoned as ornaments; for it is not their cuftom to wear any covering on their heads.
They live in the fmall coves formerly defcribed, in companies of forty or fifty, or more; and fometimes in fingle families, building their huts contiguous to each other; which, in general, are miferable lodging-places. The bed I ever faw was about thirty feet long, fifteen broad, and fix high, built exactly in the manner of one of our country barns. The infide was both flrong and regularly made of fupporters at the fides, alternately large and fmall, well failened by means of withes, and painted red and black. The ridge pole was flrong; and the large bull-rufhes, which compofed the inner part of the thatching, were laid with great exactnefs parallel to each other. At one end was a imall fquare hole, which ferved as a door to creep in at; and near it another much fmaller, feemingly for letting out the fmoke, as no other vent for it could be feen. This, however, ought to be coniidered as one of the bell, and the refidcnce of lome principal pcrfon ; for the greatefl part of
February,
3
them
them are not half the above fize, and feldom exceed four feet in height; being, befides, indifferently built, though proof againft wind and rain.
No other furniture is to be feen in them, than a few fmall bafkets or bags, in which they put their fifhing-hooks, and other trifles; and they fit down in the middle round a fmall fire, where they alfo probably fleep, without any other covering than what they wear in the day, or perhaps without that; as fuch confined places mufl be very warm, though inhabited but by a few perfons.
They live chiefly by fifhing, making ufe either of nets of different kinds, or of wooden fifh hooks pointed with bone; but fo oddly made, that a flrangcr is at a lofs to know how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. It alfo appears, that they remove their habitations from one place to another when the fifh grow fcarce, or for fome other reafon; for we found houfes now built in feveral parts, where there had been none when we were here during our laft voyage, and even thefe have been already deferted.
Their boats are well built, of planks raifed upon each other, and faliened with ftrong withes, which alfo bind a long narrow piece on the outfide of the learns to prevent their leaking. Some are fifty feet long, and fo broad as to be able to fail without an outrigger . but the fmaller fort commonly huve one; and they often fallen two together by rafters, which we then call a double canoe.' They carry from five to thirty men or more ; and have often a large head ingenioufly carved, and painted with a figure at the point, which feems intended to reprefeht a man, with his features diftorted by rage Their paddles are about four or five feet long, narrow, and pointed; with which, when
they
-^^rua'r   *ncy keeP time, tlie boat is pufhcd along pretty fwifrly.
v—-        Their fail, which is feldom ufed, is made of a mat of a
triangular fhape, having the broadefl part above.
The only method of drcfling their fifh, is by roafling, or rather baking; for they are intirely ignorant of the art of boiling. In the fame manner they drefs the root, and part of the flalk, of the large fern-tree, in a great hole dug for that purpofe, which fcrves as an oven. After which they fplit it, and find, within, a fine gelatinous fubftance, like boiled fago powder, but firmer. They alfo ufe another fmaller fern root, which feems to be their fubflitute for bread, as it is dried and carried about with them, together with dried fifh in great quantities, when they remove their families, or go far from home. This they beat with a flick till it becomes pretty foft, when they chew it fufficiently, and fpit out the hard fibrous part, the other having a fweetifli mealy tafte not at all difagreeablc.
When they dare not venture to fea, or perhaps from choice, they fupply the place of other fifh with mufcles and fca-ears; great quantities of the fhells of which lie in heaps near their houfes. And they fometimes, though rarely, find means to kill rails, penguins, and fhags, which help to vary their diet. They alfo breed confiderable numbers of the dogs, mentioned before, for food ; but thefe cannot be confidered as a principal article of diet. From whence we may conclude, that, as there is not the leafl fign of cultivation of land, they depend principally for their fubfiflencc on the fea, which, indeed, is very bountiful in its fupply.
Their method of feeding correfponds with the naflinefs of their perfons, which often fmell difagreeably from the
quantity
quantity of greafe about them, and their clothes never be- FJ£/u7a*ry ing warned.   We have feen them eat the vermin, with v—*—j which their heads are fufficiently flocked.
They alfo ufed to- devour, with the greatefl: eageraefr, large quantities of' flinking train oil, and blubber of feals, which we were melting at the tent, and had kept near two months ; and, on board the fhips, they were not fatisficd with emptying the lamps, but actually fwallowed the cotton, and fragrant wick, with equal voracity. It is worthy of notice, that though the inhabitants of Van Diemen's land appear to have but a fcanty fubfiflence, they would not even tafte our bread, though they faw us eat it; whereas thefe people devoured it greedily, when both mouldy and rotten. But this muft not be imputed to any defect in their fenfa-tions; for I have obferved them throw away things which we eat, with evident difguft, after only fmelling to them.
They fhew as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as any uncivilized nations under fimilar circumftances. For, without the ufe of any metal. tools^ they make every thing by which they procure their fubfiflence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with a degree of neatnefs, ftrength, and convenience for accomplifhing their feveral purpofes. Their chief mechanical tool is formed exactly after the maimer of our adzes; and is made, as are alfo the . duffel and goudge, of the green ferpent-ftone or jafper, already mentioned; though fometimes they are com^ pofed of a black, fmooth, and very folid ftone. But their lnaftcr-piece feems to be carving, which is found upon the moft trifling things; and, in particular, the heads of their canoes are fometimes ornamented with it in fuch a manner, as not only mews much defign, but is alfo -an example of
their
t^tt* tne^r grcat labour and patience in execution. Their cordage u s—' for fifhing-lines is equal, in ftrength and evennefs, to that made by us ; and their nets not at all inferior. But what muft, coft them more labour than any other article, is the making the tools we have mentioned; for the ftone is exceedingly hard, and the only method of fafhioning it, we can guefs at, is by rubbing one ftone upon another, which can have but a flow effect;. Their fubftitute for a knife is a (hell, a bit of flint, or jafper. And, as an auger, to bore holes, they fix a mark's tooth in the end of a fmall piece of wood. It is true, they have a fmall faw made of fome jagged fhnes teeth, fixed on the convex edge of a piece of wood nicely carved. But this, they fay, is only ufed to cut up the bodies of their enemies whom they kill in battle.
No people can have a quicker fenfe of an injury done to them, and none are more ready to rcfent it. But, at the fame time, they will take an opportunity of being infolent when they think there is no danger of punifhment; which is fo contrary to the fpirit of genuine bravery, that, perhaps, their eagernefs to refent injuries is to be looked upon rather as an effect of a furious difpofition than of great courage. They alfo appear to be of a fufpicious or miftruftful temper {which, however, may rather be acquired than natural), for flrangers never came to our fhips immediately, but lay in their boats at a fmall diftance, either to obferve our motions, or confult whether or no they mould rifk their fafety with us. To this they join a great degree of diflionefty; for they Ileal every thing they can lay their hands on, if there be the leaft hope of not being detected; and, in trading, I have little doubt but they would take advantages, if they thought it could be done with fafety; as they not only refufe
to
to truft a thing in one's hand for examination, but exult if they think they have tricked you in the bargain.
Such conduct, however, is, in fome meafurc, to be expected where there appears to be but little fubordination, and confequently few, if any, laws, to punifh tranfgreftions. For no man's authority feems to extend farther than his own family; and when, at any time, they join for mutual defence, or any other purpofe, thofe amongft them who are eminent for courage or prudence, are directors. Flow their private quarrels are terminated is uncertain ; but, in the few we faw, which were of little confequence, the parties concerned were clamorous and diforderly.
Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpetual; for it appears, from their number of weapons, and dexterity in ufing them, that war is their principal profeflion. Thefe weapons are fpears, patoos and halberts, or fometimes flones. The firft are made of hard wood pointed, of different lengths, from five, to twenty, or even thirty feet long. The fhort ones are ufed for throwing as darts. The patoo or emeete is of an elliptical fhape, about eighteen inches long, with a handle made of wood, ftone, the bone of fome fea animal, or green jafper, and feems to be their principal dependence in battle. The halbcrt, or long club, is about five or fix feet long, tapering at one end with a carved head, and at the other, broad or flat, with fharp edges.
Before they begin the onfet, they join in a war-fong, to which they all keep the exacteft time, and foon raife their paftion to a degree of frantic fury, attended with the moft horrid diftortion of their eyes, mouths, and tongues, to ftrike terror into their enemies; which, to thofe who have not been accuftomed to fuch a practice, makes them ap-
Vol. I, Y pear
_ pear more like demons than men, and would almofl chill
February. *
__-* the boldcfl with fear. To this fucceeds a circumflance, almofl foretold in their fierce demeanor, horrid, cruel, and-difgraceful to human nature; which is, cutting in pieces, even before being perfectly dead, the bodies of their enemies, and, after drefllng them on a fire, devouring the flefh, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar fatif-faction.
One might be apt to fuppofe, that people, capable of fuch excefs of cruelty, mufl be deflitute of every humane feeling, even amongfl their own party. And yet we find them lamenting the lofs of their friends, with a violence of exprefhon which argues the mofl tender remembrance of them. For both men and women, upon the death of thofe connected with them, whether in battle or othcrwife, bewail them with the mofl doleful cries ; at the fame time cutting their foreheads and cheeks, with fhclls or pieces of flint, in large gafhes, until the blood flows plentifully and mixes with their tears. They alfo carve pieces of their green flone, rudely fhaped, as human figures, which they ornament with bright eyes of pearl-fhell, and hang them about their necks, as memorials of thofe whom they held mofl dear; and their affections of this kind are fo flrong, that they even perform the ceremony of cutting, and lamenting for joy, at the return of any of their friends, who have been abfent but for a fhort time.
The children arc initiated, at a very early age, into all the practices, good or bad, of their fathers ; fo that you find a boy or girl, nine or ten years old, able to perform all the motions, and to imitate the frightful geflures, by which the more aged ufe to infpire their enemies with terror, keeping 8 the
the flrictefl time in their fong. They likewife ling, with fome degree of melody, the traditions of their forefathers, their actions in war, and other indifferent fubjects; of all which they are immoderately fond, and fpend much of their time, in thefe amufements, and in playing on a fort of flute.
Their language is far from being harfli or difagreeable, though the pronunciation is frequently guttural; and whatever qualities are requifite in any other language to make it mufical, certainly obtain to a confiderable degree here, if we may judge from the melody of fome forts of their fongs.   It is alfo fufficiently comprehcnfive, though, in many refpects, deficient, if compared with our European languages, which owe their perfection to long improvement.   But a fmall fpecimen is here fubjoined, from which fome judgment may be formed.   I collected a great many of their words, both now and in the courfe of our former voyage ; and being equally attentive, in my inquiries, about the languages of the other iflands throughout the South Sea, I have the amplefl proof of their wonderful agreement, or rather identity.   This general obfervation has, indeed, been already made in the accounts of the former voyages *. I fhall be enabled, however, to confirm and flrengthen it, by a frefh lifl of words, felected from a large vocabulary in my poileflion j and by placing, in the oppofite column, the correfponding words as ufed at Otaheite, the curious reader will, at one view, be furnifhed with fufficient materials forjudging by what fubordinate changes the difference of dialect has been effected.
• See Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol, iii. p. 474, 475. and Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 364.
Y 2
Englifli.	New Zealand.	Otaheite.
Water,	Ewy,	Evy.
A tail of a dog,	Wyeroo,	Ero.
Death, dead,	Kaoo, matte,	Matte, roa.
Tofy,	Ererre,	Eraire.
A houfe,	Ewharre,	Ewharre.
To fleep,	Moea,	Moe.
A ffi-hook,	Makoee,	Matou.
Shut,	Opanee,	Opanee.
A bed,	Moenga,	Moera.
A butterfly,	Epaipe,	Pepe.
To chew, or eat,	Hekaee,	Ey.
Cold,	Makkareede,	Mareedc.
To-day,	Agooanai,	Aooanai.
The hand,	Reenga,	Ere ema.
Large,	Keeerahoi,	Erahoi.
Red,	Whairo,	Oora, oora.
We,	Taooa,	Taooa.
Where is it ?	Kahaia,	Tehaia.
A Jlone,	Powhy,	Owhy.
A man,	Tangata,	Taata.
Blacky	Purra, purra	Ere, ere.
White,	Ema,	Ooama.
To refde, or dwell,	Nohoanna,	Nohonoa.
Out, not within,	Woho,	Woho.
Male kind (of any anima	1), Toa,	Etoa.
Female,	Eoowha,	Eooha.
A Jhark,	Mango,	Mao.
To under fand,	Gcctaia,	Eetea.
Forgot,	Warrc,	Ooaro.
Ttferday,	Tacninnahoi,	Ninnahoi.
One,	Tahace,	At aha y.
Englifli. New Zealand. Otaheite.
Two,	Rooa,	Erooa.
Three,	Toroo,	Toroo.
Four,	Faa,	Ahaa.
Five,	Rcema,	Ereema.
Six,	Ono,	Aono.
Seven,	Heetoo,	Aheitoo.
Eight,	Waroo,	Awaroo.
Nine,	Eeva,	Aecva.
Ten,	Angahoora,	Ahooroo.
The New Zealanders to thefe numerals prefix Ma j as>
Eleven, Matahee. Twelve, &c, &c. Marooa, Twenty, Mangahoora.
A
VOYAGE
TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN
BOOK IL
From leaving New Zealand, to our Arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Iflands.
CHAP. I.
Profecution of the Voyage.—Behaviour of the Two New Zealanders on hoard.—Unfavourable Winds.—An If and called Mangeea difcovered.—The Coafl of it examined.—Tranfaflions with the Natives.—An Account of their Perfons, Drefs. and Canoe.— Defcription of the If and.—A Specimen of the Language.—Dtf-poftion of the Inhabitants.
r\N the 25th, at ten o'olock in the morning, a light 1777*
Ci # Fe br u 3 ry
V,/ breeze fpringing up at North Well by Well, we <__1*
weighed, flood out of the Sound, and made fail through rraefday25» the llrair, with the Difcovery in company.   We had hardly got the length of Cape Tierawhitte, when the wind took us aback at South Eaft.   It continued in this quarter till
two
\
*
February   two oc^oc^: tue next rnorning, when wc had a few hours
»-,-' calm.   After which we had a breeze at North ; but here it
wedne. 2 . £xe(j not \ongy before it veered to the Eaft, and after that to ThmUUyzj. the South.   At length, on the 27th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we took our departure from Cape Pallifer, which, at this time, bore Weft, feven or eight leagues diftant. We had a fine gale, and I fleered Eaft by North.
We had no fooner loft fight of the land than our two New Zealand adventurers, the fea ficknefs they now experienced giving a turn to their reflections, repented heartily of the flep they had taken. All the foothing encouragement we could think of, availed but little. They wept, both in public and in private ; and made their lamentations in a kind of fong, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was expreflivc of their praifes of their country and people, from which they were to be feparated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till their fea ficknefs wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to fubfide. Then thefe fits of lamentation became lefs and lefs frequent, and at length entirely ceafed. Their native country and their friends were, by degrees, forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us, as if they had been born amongfl us.
The wind had not remained many hours at South, before it veered to South Eaft and Eaft; and, with this, we flood to Friday 28. the North, till the 28th at noon. Being then in the latitude of 410 17', and in the longitude of 1770 17' Eaft, we tacked and flood to the South Eafl, with a gentle breeze at Eaft North Eaft. It afterward frefhencd, and came about to North Eaft; in which quarter it continued twTo days, and fometimes blew a frefh gale with fqualls, accompanied with fhowers of rain. 3
On
On the 2d of March at noon, beinq; in the latitude of fpt*
& March.
42° 3$' 3°"> longitude 1800 8' Eaft, the wind fhifted to North Weft; afterward to South Weft; and between tins point and un ay *' North it continued to blow, fometimes a ftrong gale with hard fqualls, and at other times very moderate. With this wind we fleered North Eaft by Eaft and Eaft, under all the fail we could carry, till the nth at noon, at which time we Tueftay it. were in the latitude of 390 39', longitude 196* 4 Eaft.
The wTind noW veered to. North Eaft and South Faft, and I flood to the North, and to the North Eaft, as the wind would admit, till one o'clock in the morning on the 16th, Simdnyi6. when having a more favourable gale from the North, I tacked and flood to the Eaft ; the latitude being 33* 40', and the longitude 1980 501 Eaft. AVe had light airs and calms by turns, till noon the next day, when the wind began to Monday 17* frefhen at Eaft South Eaft, and I again flood to the North Eaft. But as the wind often veered to Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, we frequently made no better than a. northerly courfe; nay fometimes to the Weftward of North. But the hopes of the wind coming more Southerly, or of meeting with it from the Weftward, a little without the Tropic, as I had experienced in my former vifits to this ocean, encouraged me to continue this courfe. Indeed it was neceffary that I * fhould run all rifks, as my proceeding to the North this year, in profecution of the principal object of the voyage, depended entirely on my making a quick pafiagc to Otaheite, or the Society Iflands.
The wind continued invariably fixed at Eaft South Eaft, or feldom fhifting above two points on either fide.   It alfo blew very faint, fo that it was the 27th before wc crofted Thurfdnyz;. the Tropic, and then we were only in the longitude of 2010 23' Eaft, which was nine degrees to the Weftward of
Vol. I. Z our
our intended port. In all this run we faw nothing, except now and then a Tropic bird, that could induce us to think we had failed near any land. In the latitude of 340 20', longitude 1090, we paffed the trunk of a large tree, which was covered with barnacles; a fign that it had been long at fea.
Saturdnyz^. On the 29th, at ten in the morning, as we were ft and in g to the North haft, the Difcovery made the fignal of feeing .land. We faw it from the maft-head almoft the fame moment, bearing North Eaft by Eaft by compafs. We foon difcovered it to be an ifland of no great extent, and flood for it till funfet, when it bore North North Eaft, diftant. about two or three leagues.
The night was fpent in Handing off and on, and at day-Sunday 30. break the next morning, I bore up for the lee or Weft fide of the ifland, as neither anchorage nor landing appeared to be practicable on the South fide, on account of a great furf *, which broke every where with violence againft the fhore, or againft the reef that furrounded it.
We prefently found that the ifland was inhabited, and faw feveral people, on a point of the land wc had palled, wading to the reef, where, as they found the fhip leaving, them quickly, they remained. But others, who foon appeared in different parts, followed her courfe ; and fometimes feveral of them collected into fmall bodies, who made a fhouting noife all together, nearly after the manner of the inhabitants of New Zealand.
Between feven and eight o'clock, we were at the Weft North Weft part of the ifland, and, being near the fhore, we
• A very ingenious and fatisfa&ory account of the caufe of the furf, is to be met with in Marfden's Hiflory of Sumatra, p. 29. 32,
could
'777-March.
could perceive with our glafTes, that feveral of the natives, who appeared upon a fandy beach, were all armed with long fpcars and clubs, which they brandifhed in the air with figns of threatening, or, as fome on board interpreted their attitudes, with invitations to land. Molt of them appeared naked, except having a fort of girdle, which, being brought up between the thighs, covered that part of the body. But fome of them had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, flriped, or chequered, which they wore as a garment, thrown about their fhoulders. And almofl all of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not much unlike a turban; or, in fome inflanccs, like a high conical cap. Wc could alfo perceive that they were of a tawny colour, and in general of a middling ilature, but robufl, and inclining to corpulence.
At this time, a fmall canoe was launched in a great hurry from the further end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view to reach the fhip. On perceiving this, I brought to, that we might receive the vifit; but the man's refolution failing, he foon returned toward the beach, where, after fome time, another man joined him in the- canoe ; and then they both paddled toward us. They llopt fhort, however, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addreffed them in the Otaheite language, in fome mcafure quieted their apprehenfions. They then came near enough to take fome beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. They feemed afraid to touch thefe things, and put the piece of wood aude without untying them. This, however, might arife from fuperdition ; for Omai told us, that when they faw us offering them prefents, they alked fome-thing for their Eatooa, or god.   He alio, perhaps imprb-
Z 2 , pcrly,
perly, put the queftion to them, Whether they ever eat human flefli ? which they anfwered in the negative, with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whofe name was Mourooa, being afked how he came by a fear on his forehead, told us that it was the confequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an ifland, which lies to the North Eaftward, who fometimes came to invade them. They afterward took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, who underftood them pretty well, that their countrymen on fhore had given them this caution, at the fame time directing them to inquire, from whence our fhip came, and to learn the name of the Captain. On our part, we inquired the name of the ifland, which they called Mangya or Mangcca ; and fometimes added to it AW, naiy naiiva.   The name of their Chief, they faid, was Orooaeeka.
Mourooa was lufty and well made, but not very tall. His features were agreeable, and his difpofition feemingly no lefs fo; for he made feveral droll gefticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a fhare of humour. He alfo made others which feemed of a ferious kind, and repeated fome words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope at the fhip's ftern ; which was probably to recommend himfelf to the proteftion of fame Divinity. His colour was nearly of the fame eaft with that common to the moft fouthern Europeans. The other man was not fo handfome. Both of them had ftrong, flraight hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore fuch girdles as we had percewed about thofe on fhore, and we found they were a fubflance made from the Morus pafyrifera, in the fame manner as at the other iflands of this ocean.   It was
glazed
glazed like the fort ufed by the natives of the Friendly Iflands; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which is found at Otaheite.   They had on, a kind of fan-dais, made of a grally fubftance interwoven, which wye alfo obferved were worn by thofe who flood upon the beach; and, as we fuppofed, intended to defend their feet againft the rough coral rock.   Their beards were long ; and the infide of their arms, from the fhoulder to the elbow, and fome other parts, were punctured or tatooed, after the manner of the inhabitants of almoft all the other iflands in the South Sea.   The lobe of their cars was pierced, or rather flit, and to fuch a length, that one of them fluck there a knife and fome beads, which he had received from us ; and the fame perfon had two polifhed pearl-ihells, and a bunch of human hair, loofcly twifted, hanging about his neck, which was the only ornament we obferved.   The canoe they came in (which was the only one we faw), was not above ten feet long, and very narrow; but both ftrong and neatly madd   The forepart had a flat board faftened over it, and projecting out, to prevent the fea getting in on plunging, like the fmall Evans at Otaheite; but it had an upright ftern, about five feet high, like fome in New Zealand; and the upper end of this ftern-poft was forked.   The lower part of the canoe was of white wood; but the upper was black, and their paddles, made of wood of the fame colour, not above three feet long, broad at one end, and blunted.   They paddled either end of the canoe forward indifferently; and only turned about their faces to paddle, the contrary way.
We now flood off and on ; and as foon as the fhips were in a proper flation, about ten o'clock I ordered two boat3, one of them from the Difcovery, to found the coaft, and to
endeavour
1777-    endeavour to find a landing-place.   With this view, I went
March. b r
i^-v—^ in one of them myfelf, taking with me fuch articles to give the natives, as I thought might ferve to gain their good-will. I had no fooner put off from the fhip, than the canoe, with the two men, which had left us not long be*-fore, paddled towards my boat; and, having come alongside, Mourooa flept- into her, without being afked, and without a moment's hefitation.
Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire of him, where we could land ; and he directed us to two different places. But I faw, with regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, unlefs at the rifk of having our boats filled with water, or even flaved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our fearch for anchorage ; for we could find no bottom, till within a cable's length of the breakers. There we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over fharp coral rocks; fo that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger than landing.
While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the fhore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the'reef, all armed as above mentioned. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As many of them complied, I judged hemufl be a perfon of fome confequence among them. Indeed, if we underflood him right, he was the king's -brother. So great was the curiofity of feveral of them, that they took to the water, and, fwimming off to the boats, came on board them without referve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out; and flill more difficult to prevent their carrying off every thing they could lay their hands
upon.
THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 175 upon.   At length, when they perceived that we were re- '777-
■        . in- March.
turning to the ihips, they all left us, except our original w~^—' vifiter Mourooa.   lie, though not without evident figns of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on board the fhip.
The cattle and other new objects, that prcfented themfelves to him there, did not ftrike him with fo much fur-prife as one might have expected. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own fafety, to allow him to attend to other things. It is certain, that he feemed very uneafy j and the fhip, on our getting on board, happening to be ftanding off fhore, this circumflance made him the more fo. I could get but little new information from him; and therefore, after he had made a fhort flay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As foon as he got out of the cabin, he happened to ffumblc over one of the goats. His curiofity now overcoming his fear, he flopped, looked at it, and afked Omai, what bird this was ? and not receiving an immediate anfwer from him, he repeated the queflion to fome of the people upon deck. The boat having conveyed him pretty near to the furf, he leaped into the fea, and fwam afhore. He had no fooner landed, than the multitude of his countrymen gathered round him, as if with an eager curiofity to learn from him what he had feen ; and in this fituation they remained, when we loll fight of them. As foon as the boat returned, we hoiflcd her in, and made fail from the land to the Northward.
Thus were we obliged to leave, unvifitcd, this fine ifland, which feemed capable of fupplying all our wants.   It lies in the latitude of ai° 57' South; and in the longitude of Z0l° 53' Eaft-   Such parts, of the coaft, as fell under our 4 ' ■ obfervation,
obfcrvation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the outfide of which the fea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height; though, in clear weather, it may be certainly feen at the diftance of ten leagues; for we had not loft fight of it at night, when wc had run above feven leagues, and the weather was cloudy. In the middle, it rifes into little hills, from whence there is a gentle defcent to the more, which, at the South Weft part, is fteep, though not above* ten or twelve feet high; and has feveral excavations made by the beating of the waves againft a brownifh fand-ftonc of which it is compofed. The defcent here is covered with trees of a deep green colour, very thick, but not high, which feem all of one fort, unlefs neareft the fhore, where there are great numbers of that fpecies of draczna found in the woods of New Zealand, which are alfo fcattered in fome other places. On the North Weft part, the fhore, as we mentioned above, ends in a fandy beech ; beyond which the land is broken down into fmall chafms or gullies, and has a broad border of trees rcfembling tall willows"; which, from its regularity, might be fuppofed a work of art, did not its extent forbid us to think fo. Farther up on the afcent, the trees were of the deep green mentioned before. Some of us fuppofed thefe to be the rima, intermixed with low cocoa palms; and a few of fome other forts. They feemed not fo thick as on the South Weft part, and higher; which appearance might be owing to our nearer approach to the fhore. On the little hills, were fome trees of a taller fort, thinly fcattered ; but the other parts of them were cither bare, and of a reddifh colour, or covered with fome-thing like fern. Upon the whole, the ifland has a pretty afped, and might be made a beautiful fpot by cultivation.
2 As
As the inhabitants feemed to be both numerous and well >777«
March.
fed, fuch articles of provifion as the ifland produces muft be <-<—*
in great plenty. It might, however, be a matter of curiofity to know, particularly, their method of fubliftcnce ; for our friend Mourooa told us, that they had no animals, as hogs and dogs, both which, however, they had heard of; but acknowledged they had plantains, bread fruit, and taro. The only birds we faw, were fome white egg-birds, terns, and noddies; and one white heron, on the more.
The language of the inhabitants of Mangcca is a dialed: of that fpoken at Otaheite j though their pronunciation, as that of the New Zealanders, be more guttural. Some of their words, of which two or three are perhaps peculiar to this ifland, are here fubjoined, as taken, by Mr. Anderfon, from Omai, who had learnt them in his convcrfations with Mourooa. The Otaheite words, where there is any •refemblance, are placed oppoftte.
Englifli.	Mangeea,	Otaheite.
A "cocoa nut,	Eakkaree,	Aree.
Bread-fruit,	Kooroo,	Ooroo.
A canoe,	Fwakka,	Evaa.
Friend,	Naoo, mou.	
A man,	Taata, or Tangata,	Taata.
Cloth, or cloth plant, Taia, taia aoutee,		Eoute.
Good,	Mata,	Myty.
A club,	Pooroohee.	
Tes,	Aee,	Ai.
No,	Aoure,	Aoure.
A fpear.	Fleyhey.	
A fight, or battle,	Etamagec,	Tamace.
A woman,	Waheine,	Waheine.
Vol, I.	A a	
'777- Englifli. Mawseea. Otaheite.
March. & *
A daughter, Maheinc, M ah cine.
The fun, Heetaia matooa.
/, Ou, Wou.
The fiore, Euta, Euta.
What is that ? Ehataiccc ? ,  Owytaiecoa J
There, Oo.
A chief, Ereckee, Erec.
~ r , C Manna (an ad j unci
Great, or powerful, \ ,   , „ ,
1 t    to the laft).
To kifi, Ooma.
The natives of Mangeea feem to refemble thofe of Otaheite and the Marquefas in the beauty of their perfons, more than any other nation I have feen in thefe feas; having a fmooth fkin, and not being mufcular. Their general difpofition alfo correfponds, as far as we had opportunities of judging, with that which diflinguiilics the firft mentioned people. For they are not only cheerful, but, as Mourooa (hewed us, are acquainted with all the lafcivious gefticulations which the Otaheiteans pracTife in their dances. It may alfo be fuppofed, that their method-of living is fimilar. For, though the nature of the country prevented our feeing many of their habitations, we obferved one houfe near the beach, which much refembled, in its mode of conftrucliion, thofe of Otaheite. It was pleafanrly fituated in a grove of trees, and appeared to be about thirty feet long, and feven or eight high, with an open end, which represented an ellipfc divided tranfverfcly. Before it, was fpread fomcthing white on a few bufhes ; which we conjectured to be a fifliing net, and, to appearance, of a very delicate texture.
7 They
>
They falutc flrangcrs much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by joining nofes; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking the hand of the perfon to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it with a degree of force upon their nofe and mouth *.
* The inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands, at the diftance of almoft fifteen hundred leagues from Mangeea, have the fame mode of falutation. " Leur civilite, & la marque de leur refpedl, confiftc a prendre la main " ou le pied de celui a qui ils veulent faire honneur, & s'en frotter doucemcnt tout " le vifage."   Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 208. Edit, 1781.
A a 2
>
CHAP.
C II A P. II.
The Difcovery of an Ijland called IVatecoo.—Its Coafts examined.—Viftts from the Natives on board the Ships. —Mejf. Gore, Burney; and Anderfon, with Omai, fent on Shore.—Mr. Anderfon s Narrative of their Reception.—Omats Expedient to prevent their being detained.—His meeting with fome of his Countryman, and their difrefful Voyage.—Farther Account of Wateeoo, and of its Inhabitants.
A ETE R leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th, jLX, we continued our courfe Northward all that night, and till noon on the 31ft ; when we again faw land, in the direction of North Eaft by North, diftant eight or ten leagues.
Next morning, at eight o'clock, wc had got abreaft of its North end, within four leagues of it, but to leeward ; and could now pronounce it to be an ifland, nearly of the fame appearance and extent whh that we had fo lately left. At the fame time, another ifland, but much fmaller, was feen right- ahead, .We could have foon reached this ; but the largeft one had the preference, as moft likely to furnifh a fupply of food for the cattle, of which we began to be in great want.
With this view I determined to work up to it; but as there was but little wind, and that little was unfavourable,
we
wc were flill two leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the following morning.    Soon after, I fent two armed boats \
from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, under the command of Lieutenant Gore, to look for anchoring-ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the ifland with the mips.
Juft as the boats were putting off, we obferved feveral fingle canoes coming from the fhore. They went firft to the Difcovery, fhe being the neareft fhip. It was not long after, when three of thefe canoes came along-fide of the Refolution, each conducted by. one man. They are long and narrow, and fupportcd by outriggers. The flcrn is elevated about three or four feet, fomething like a fhip's ftern-poft. The head is flat above, but prow-like below, and turns down at the extremity, like the end of a violin. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our vi-fiters ; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our a (king for them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had received from us. For they feemed to have no idea of bartering ; nor did they appear to eftimate any of our prefents at a high rate.
With a little perfuafion, one of them made his canoe faft to the fhip, and came on board; and the other two, encouraged by his example, foon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their cafe, and felt no fort of apprehcnfion of our detaining, or ufing them ill.
After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a prefent to me ; afking for me by name, having learnt it from Omai, who was fent before us in the boat with Mr.
8 Gore.
y7j;     Gore.   In return for this civility, I gave him an axe, and —a piece of red cloth; and he paddled back to the fhore well fatisfied.   1 afterward underflood from Omai, that this prefent had been fent from the king, or principal Chief of the ifland.
Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward us. As they drew near the fhip, they recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus *, one of their number firft ftanding up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finifhed their folemn chant, they came along-fide, and afked for the Chief. As foon as I fliewed myfelf, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the fhip; and the principal perfon in the canoe made me an additional prefent of a piece of matting, as foon as he and his companions got on board.
Our vifiters were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the fhip. Some objects feemed to ftrike them with a degree of furprize ; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horfes ; nor did they form the leaft conception of their nature. But the fheep and goats did not fur-pafs the limits of their ideas ; for they gave us to under-ftand, that they knew them to be birds. It will appear rather incredible, that human  ignorance could ever make fo
* Something like this ceremony was performed by the inhabitants of the Marquefas, when Captain Cook vifited them in 1774. See his Voyage, Vol, i. p. 301. It is curious to obferve, at what immenfe diftances this mode of receiving ftrangers prevails. Padillo, who failed from Manilla in 1710, on a voyage to difcover the Palaos Iflands, was thus received there. The writer of the relation of his voyage-fays, 44 AuflUot qu'ils approcherent de notre bord, ils fc mirent a chanter. Us ** rcgloicnl la cadence, en frappant des mains fur leurs cuiiles."
Lcttrcs Ed'tfiantes & Curicuja, Tom. xv. p. 323.
ftrange
flrange a miftake; there not being the moll diftant fimiii-tude between a fheep or goat, and any winged animal. But thefe people feemed to know nothing of the exiftence of any other land-animals, befides hogs, dogs, and birds. Our fheep and goats, they could fee, were very different creatures from the two firft, and therefore they inferred, that they muft belong to the latter clafs, in which they knew there is a confiderable variety of fpecies. I made a prefent to my new friend of what I thought might be moft acceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he feemed rather difappointed than plea fed. I afterward underftood that he was very defirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this ifland could not boaft, though its inhabitants knew that the race exifted in other iflands of their ocean. Captain Gierke had received the like prefent, with the fame view, from another man, who met with from him the like difappointment.
The people in thefe canoes were in general of a middling fize, and not unlike thofe of Mangeca ; though feveral were of a blacker eaft than any we faw there. Their hair was tied on the crown of the head, or flowing loofe about the fhouldcrs ; and though in fome it was of a frizzling difpofition, yet, for the moft part, that, as well as the flraight fort, was long. Their features were various, and fome of the young men rather hand fome. Like thofe of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt their thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments, compofed of a fort of broad grafs, ftained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night-fhade, were worn about their necks. Their ears were bored, but not flit; and they were punctured upon the legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them appear
j.''77-     pear as if they wore a kind of boots.   They alfo refemblect
*-„.—j the inhabitants of Mangeea in the length of their beards,
and, like them, wore a fort of fandals upon their feet. Their behaviour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal of good-nature.
At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Gore returned with the boat, and informed me, that he had examined all the Well fide of the iiland, without finding a place where a boat could land, or the fhips could anchor, the fhore being every where bounded by a fleep coral rock, againft which the fea broke in a dreadful furf. But as the natives feemed very friendly, and to cxprefs a degree of difappointment when they faw that our people failed in their attempts to land, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that by means of Omai, who could belt explain our rcqueft, they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the furf, fuch articles as wc moft wanted j in particular, the flems of plantain trees, which make good food for the cattle. Having little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was not of any moment; and therefore 1 determined to try the experiment, and got every thing ready againft the next morning.
Thurfday3. Soon after day-break, we obferved fome canoes coming off to the fhips, and one of them directed its courfe to the Refolution. In it was a hog, with fame plantains and cocoa nuts, for which the people, who brought them, demanded a dog from us, and refufed every other thing that we offered in exchange. One of our gentlemen on board, happened to have a dog and a bitch, which were great nuifances in the fhip, and might have been difpofed of on . this occafion for a purpofe of real utility, by propagating a race of fo ufeful an animal in this ifland. But their owner had no fuch views, in making them the companions of his
voyage.
voyage. Plowever, to gratify thefe people, Omai parted with a favourite dog he had brought from England; and with this acquifition they departed highly fatisfied.
About ten o'clock, I difpatched Mr. Gore with three boats, two from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, to try the experiment he had propofed. And, as I could confide in his diligence and ability, I left it entirely to himfelf, to act as, from circumftances, he mould judge to be moft proper. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. The fhips being a full league from the ifland when the boats put off, and having but little wind, it was noon before we could work up to it. We then faw our three boats riding at their grapplings, juft without the furf, and a prodigious number of the natives on the fhore, abreaft of them. By this we concluded, that Mr. Gore, and others of our people, had landed, and our impatience to know the event may be cafily conceived. In order to obferve their motions, and to be ready to give them fuch afliftancc as they might want, and our refpective fnuations would admit of, I kept as near the fhore as was prudent. [ was fenfible, however, that the reef was as effectual a barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and put them as much beyond the reach of our protection, as if half the circumference of the globe had intervened. But the iflanders, it was probable, did not know this fo well as we did. Some of them, now and then, came off to the fhips in their canoes, with a few cocoa nuts j which they exchanged for whatever was offered to them, without fceming to give the preference to any particular article.
/Thefe occaflonal viftts ferved to leflcn my folicitude about our people who had landed.   Though we could get no in-Vol. I. B I) formation
March formation from our vifiters; yet their venturing on board —w—' feemed to imply, at leafl, that their countrymen on more had not made an improper ufe of the confidence put in them. At length, a little before fun-fet, we had the fatisfaction of feeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr. Gore himfelf, Omai, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Burney, were the only perfons who had landed. The transactions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr. Gore ; but Mr. Andcrfon's account of them being very particular, and including fome* remarks on the ifland and its inhabitants, I fhall give it a place here, nearly in his own words.
" We rowed toward a fmall fandy beach, upon which, and upon the adjacent rocks, a great number of the natives had affembicd ; and came to an anchor within a hundred yards of the reef, which extends about as far, or a little farther, from the fhore. Several of the natives fwam oiY, bringing cocoa nuts j and Omai, with their countrymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them feniiblc of our wifh to land. But their attention was taken up, for a little time, by the dog, which had been carried from the fhip, and was juft brought on more, round whom they flocked with great eagcrnefs. Soon after, two canoes came off; and, to create a greater confidence in the iilanders, we determined to go unarmed, and run the hazard of being treated well or ill.
Mr. Burney, the firft Lieutenant of the Difcovery, and I, went in one canoe, a little time before the other; and our conductors, watching attentively the motions of the furf, landed us fafely upon the reef. An iflander took hold of each of us, obvioufly with an intention to fupport us in walking, 7 over
over the rugged rocks, to the beach, where feveral of the others met us, holding the green boughs, of a fpecies of Mimofa, in their hands, and faluted us by applying their nofes to ours.
We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidft a great crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiofity to look at us; and would have prevented our proceeding, had not fome men, who feemed to have authority, dealt blows, with little diflincfion, amongfl them, to keep them off. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms ; and foon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they held on their fhoulders, much in the manner wc reft a mufquet. After walking a little way among ft thefe, we found a perfon who feemed a Chief, fitting on the ground crofs-lcggcd, cooling himfelf with a fort of triangular fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polifhed handle, of black wood, fixed to one corner. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no other mark, or ornament, to diftinguifh him from the reft of the people ; though they all obeyed him with the greateft alacrity. Fie either naturally had, or at this time put on, a ferious, but not fevcrc countenance ; and we were defired to falutc him as lie fat, by fome people who feemed of confequencc.
Wc proceeded ftill amongft the men armed with clubs, and came to a fecond Chief, who fat fanning himfelf, and ornamented as the firft. He was remarkable for his fize, and uncommon corpulence, though, to appearance, not above thirty years of age. In the fame manner, we were conducted to a third Chief, who feemed older than the two
B b 2 former,
1777- former, and, though not fo fat as the fecond, was of a large t, A-PJ-'_f fize. He alfo was fitting, and adorned with red feathers; and after faluting him as we had done the others, he defired us both to fit down. Which we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the exceffive heat we felt amongfl the vafl crowd that fur-rounded us.
In a few minutes, the people were ordered to feparate; and we faw, at the diflance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as the Chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow and ferious air, fung by them all. We got up, and went forward to fee them; and though we muft have been flrange objects to them, they continued their dance, without paying the leafl attention to us. They feemed to be directed by a man who ferved as a prompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make. But they never changed the fpot, as we do in dancing, and though their feet were not at reft, this exercife confifted more in moving the fingers very nimbly, at the fame time holding the hands in a prone pofition near the face, and now and then alfo clapping them together*. Their motions and fong were performed in fuch exact concert, that it fhould feem they had been taught with great care ; and probably they were felected for this ceremony, as few of thofe whom we faw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general, they were rather flout thanflender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were,
* The dances of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, have a great refemblance to thofe here defcribed. Sec Lettres Ed'if. et Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 315. See alfo, in the fame volume, p. 207. what is faid of the finging and dancing of the inhabitants of the Palaos Iflands, which belong to the fame group.
rather,
rather, fuller than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance expreffed a degree of complacency and mo-defly, peculiar to the fex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more confpicuous here, where Nature prefcnted us with her productions in the fulleft perfection, unbiaffed in fentiment by cuftom, or unreftrained in manner by art. Their fhape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their drefs confifled only of a piece of glazed cloth faflened about the waift, and fcarcely reaching fo low as the knees, in many we had an opportunity of obferving every part. This dance was not finifhed, when we heard a noife, as if fome horfes had been galloping toward us ; and, on looking afule, we faw the people armed with clubs, who had been defired, as we fuppofed, to entertain us with the fight of their manner of fighting. This they now did, one party purfuing another who fled.
As we fuppofed the ceremony of being introduced to the Chiefs was at an end, wc began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai; and, though the crowd would hardly fuffer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much incommoded by the number of people as we had been, and introduced in the fame manner to the three Chiefs, whofe names were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweera. Each of thefe expected a prefent; and Mr. Gore gave them fuch things as he had brought with him from the fhip, for that purpofe. After this, making ufe of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the Chiefs with what intention we had come on fhore ; but was given to understand, that he muft wait till the next day, and then he fhould have what was wanted.
They
They now feemed to take fome pains to feparate us from each other; and every one of us had his circle, to furround and gaze at him.  For my own part, I was, at one time, above an hour apart from my friends; and when I told the Chief, with whom I fat, that I wanted to fpeak to Omai, he peremptorily rcfufed my requeft.   At the fame time, I found the people began to fteal feveral trifling things which I had in my pocket; and when I took the liberty of complaining to the Chief of this treatment, he juftified it.   From thefe cir-cumflanccs, I now entertained apprehenfions, that they might have formed the defign of detaining us amongft them. They did not, indeed, feem to be of a difpofition fo lavage, as to make us anxious for the fafety of our perfons; but it was, ncverthelefs, vexing to think, we had hazarded being detained by their curiofity.   In this fituation, I afked for fpmething to cat; and they readily brought to me fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding, which was prefentcd by a woman,   And on my complaining much of the heat, occafioned by the crowd, the Chief himfelf con-defcended to fan me, and gave me a fmall piece of cloth, which he had round his waift.
Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my fufpicions to him ; and, to put it to the teft, whether they were well-founded, wc attempted to get to the beach. But wc were flopped, when about half-way, by fome men, who told us, that we muft go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the fame apprehenfions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reafon for being afraid ; for he had obferved, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating; and he could aflign no other reafon for this, than that they meant to roaft, and eat
us,
us, as is practifed by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went fo far as to afk them the queftion ; at which they were greatly furprifed, afking, in return, whether that was a cuftom with us? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they fhould be thus fufpccted by him ; there having, as yet, been no appearances, in their conduct: toward us, of their being capable of fuch brutality.
In this manner we were detained the greatefl part of the day, being fometimes together, and fometimes feparatcd; but always in a crowd ; who, not fatisfied with gazing at us, frequently defired us to uncover parts of our fkin; the fight of which commonly produced a general murmur of admiration. At the fame time, they did not omit thefe opportunities of rifling our pockets j and, at laft; one of them matched a fmall bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its fheath by his fide. This was represented to the Chief, who pretended to fend fome perfon in fearch of ir. But, in all probability, he countenanced the theft; for, foon after, Omai had a dagger flolen from his fide, in the fame manner; though he did not mifs it immediately.
Whether they obferved any figns of uncaiincfs in up, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendfhip when wc expreffed a defire to go, I cannot tell; but, at this time, they brought fome green boughs, and, flicking their ends in the ground, defired we might hold them as we fat. Upon our urging again the bufinefs wc came upon, they gave us to underftand, that we muft flay and cat with them; and a pig which wc faw, foon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai's apprehenfion of being put into it himfelf; and made us think it might be intended for our rcpaft.   The Chief alfo
pro mi fed
promifed to fend fome people to procure food for the cattle; but it was not till pretty late in the afternoon, that we faw them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boats.
In the mean time, Mr. Burney and I attempted again to go to the beach ; but when we arrived, found ourfelves watched by people, who, to appearance, had been placed there for this purpofe. For when I tried to wade in upon the reef, one of them too\L hold of my clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up fome fmall pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down again ; and, on my refu-fal, they made no fcruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered fome fmall plants ; but thefe alfo I could not be permitted to retain. And they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had received as a prefent on coming afhore. Omai faid, we had done wrong in taking up any thing ; for it was not the cuftom here to permit freedoms of that kind to flrangers, till they had, in fome meafurc, naturalized them to the country, by entertaining them with fcftivity for two or three days.
Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to the place we had left; and they now promifed, that we fhould have a canoe to carry us off to our boats, after we had eaten of a repaft which had been prepared for us.
Accordingly, the fecond Chief, to whom wc had been introduced in the morning, having feated himfelf upon a low broad flool of hjackifh hard wood, tolerably polifhcd, and directing the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made us fit down by him. A confiderable number of cocoa-nuts 9 were
were now brought; and, fiiortly after, a long green bafket, with a fufficient quantity of baked plantains to have ferved a dozen perfons. A piece of the young hog, that had been dreffed, was then fet before each of us, of which wc were defired to eat. Our appetites, however, had failed, from the fatigue of the day ; and though we did cat a little to pleafe them, it was without fatisfaclion to ourfelves.
It being now near fun fet, we told them it was.time to go on board. This they allowed ; and fent down to the beach the remainder of the victuals that had been drefled, to be carried with us to the fhips. But, before wc fet out, Omai was treated with a drink he had been ufed to in his own country; which, we obferved, was made here, as at other iflands in the South Sea, by chewing the root of a fort of pepper. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats; which the natives did, with the fame caution as when wc landed. But, even here, their thievifh difpofition did not leave them. For a pcrfon of fome confequencc among them, who came with us, took an opportunity, juft as they were pufhing the canoe into the furf, to match a bag out of her, which I had, with the greatefl difficulty, prefcrved all the day ; there being in it a fmall pocket-piftol, which I was unwilling to part with. Perceiving him, I called out, cxpreff-ing as much difplcafurc as I could. On which he thought proper to return, and fwim with the bag to the canoe; but denied he had flolen it, though detected in the very act. They put us on board our boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains* and other provifions, which they had brought; and we rowed to the fhips, very well pleafcd that wc had at laft got out of the hands "of our troublefome maftcrs.
Vol. I.
C c
We
We regretted much, that our retrained fituation gave us fo little opportunity of making obfervations on the country. For, during the whole day, we were feldom a hundred yards from the place where we were introduced to the Chiefs on landing; and, confequently, were confined to the furrounding objects. The firft thing that prefcnted itfelf, worthy of our notice, was the number of people; which muft have been, at leaft, two thoufand. For thofe who welcomed us on the fhore, bore no proportion to the multitude we found amongfl the trees, on proceeding a little way up.
We could alfo obferve, that, except a few, thofe we had hitherto feen on board, were of the lower clafs. For a great number of thofe we now met with, had a fuperior dignity in their air, and were of a much whiter eaft. In general, they had the hair tied on the crown of the head, long, black, and of a moft luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were perfect: models in fhape, of a complexion as delicate as that of the women, and, to appearance, of a difpofition as amiable. Others, who were more advanced in years, were corpulent; and all had a remarkable fmoothnefs of the fkin. Their general drefs was a piece of cloth, or mat, wrapped about the waift, and covering the parts which mo-defty conceals. But fome had pieces of mats, moft curi-oufly varied with black and white, made into a fort of jacket without llcevcs; and others wore conical caps of cocoa-nut core, neatly interwoven with fmall beads, made of a ihelly fubftance. Their ears were pierced ; and in them they hung bits of the membraneous part of fome plant, or ftuck there an odoriferous flower, which feemed to be a fpecies of gardenia. Some, who were of a fuperior clafs, and alfo the Chiefs, had two little balls, with a common bafc,
made
THE   PACIFIC   O C E A N. i9: made from the bone of fome animal, which was huncr \77£
• 1 © April.
round the neck, with a great many folds of fmall cord. \--*~—*
And after the ceremony of introduction to the Chiefs was over, they then appeared without their red feathers ; which are certainly confidered- here as a particular mark of distinction ; for none but themfelves, and the young women who danced, affumed them.
Some of the men were punctured all over the fides and back, in an uncommon manner; and fome of the women had the fame ornament on their legs. But this method was confined to thofe who feemed to be of a Superior rank ; and the men, in that caSe, were alSo generally diftinguifhed by their Size and corpulence, unlefs very young. The women of an advanced age had their hair cropped fhort; and many were cut, in oblique lines, all over the fore-part of the body; and fome of the wounds, which formed rhomboidal figures, had been fo lately inflicted, that the coagulated blood ilill remained in them.
The wife of one of the Chiefs appeared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been prefentcd to her hufband ; and feemed to carry it with great tendcrnefs, fuck-ling ic much after the manner of our women. Another Chief introduced his daughter, who was young and beautiful; but appeared with all the timidity natural to the fex ; though fhe gazed on us with a kind of anxious concern, that feenaed to Snaggle with her fear, and to cxprefs her aftonifhmcnt at fo unufual a fight. Others advanced with more firmnefs, and, indeed, were lefs referred than wc expected ; but behaved with a becoming modcfly. Wc did not obferve any perfonal deformities amongfl either fcx ; except in a few who had Scars of broad Superficial ulcers,
C c 2 remaining
remaining on the face and other parts. In proportion to the number of people affcmbled, there appeared not many old men or women; which may eafily be accounted for, by fuppofing that fuch as were in ail advanced period of life, might neither have the inclination, nor the ability, to come from the more diftant parts of the ifland. On the other hand, the children were numerous; and both thefe, and the men, climbed the trees to look at us, when we were hid by the furrounding crowd.
About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and fpears ; and, probably, thefe were only the perfons who had come from a diftance, as many of them had fmall baf-kets, mats, and other things, fattened to the ends of their weapons. The clubs were generally about fix feet long; made of a hard black wood, lance-lhaped at the end, but much broader, with the edge nicely fcollopcd, and the whole neatly polifhcd. Others of them were narrower at the point, much fhorter, and plain; and fome were even fo fmall, as to be ufed with one hand. The fpears were made of the fame wood, fimply pointed; and, in general, above twelve feet long; though fome were fo fhort, that they feemed intended to be thrown as darts.
The place where we were all the day, was under the fhade of various trees ; in which they preferved their canoes from the fun. About eight or ten of them were here, all double ones; that is, two fingle ones fattened together (as is ufual, throughout the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean), by rafters laihed acrofs. They were about twenty feet long, about four feet deep, and the fides rounded with a plank raifed upon them, which was fattened ftrongly by means of withes.  Two of thefe canoes were moft curioufty
flajnfjcfc,
ilained, or painted, all over with black, in numberlefs fmall figures; as fquarcs, triangles, &c. and excelled, by far, any thing of that kind 1 had ever feen at any other ifland in this ocean. Our friends here, indeed, feemed to have exerted more fkill in doing this, than in puncturing their own bodies. The paddles were about four feet long, nearly elliptical ; but broader at the upper end than the middle. Near the fame place was a hut or fhed, about thirty feet long, and nine or ten high; in which, perhaps, thefe boats are built; but, at this time, it was empty.
The greatefl number of the trees around us were cosoa-palms; fome forts of hibifcus\ a fpecies of euphorbia \ and, toward the fea, abundance of the fame kind of trees we had feen at Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa ; and which feemed to furround the fhores of this ifland in the fame manner. They are tall and flender, not much unlike a cyprefs; but with bunches of long, round, articulated leaves. The natives call them etoa. On the ground we faw fome grafs ; a fpecies of convolvulus ; and a good deal of treacle-?nujlard. There arc alfo, doubtlefs, other fruit-trees and ufeful plants which we did not fee. For, befides feveral forts of plantains, they brought, at different times, roots which they call taro (the coccos of other countries); a bread-fruit; and a bafket of roafled nuts, of a kidncy-fhape, in tafle like a chefnut, but coarfer.
What the foil of the ifland may be, farther inland, we could not tell. But, toward the fea, it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or twelve feet high, fleep, and rugged; except where there are fmall fandy beaches, at fome clefts where the afcent is gradual. The coral, though it has, probably, been expofed to the weather for many centuries, has undergone no farther change than becom-z- . ing
ing black on the furface ; which, from its irregularity, is not much unlike large ma Acs of a burnt fubffance. bur, on breaking fome pieces off, we found, that, at the depth of two or three inches, it was juft as frefh as the pieces that had been lately thrown upon the beach by the waves. The rector rock, that lines the fhore entirely, runs to different breadths into the fea, where it ends, all at once, and becomes like a high, fteep wall. It is, nearly, even with the furface of the water, and of a brown or briek colour; but the texture is rather porous, yet fufficient to withftand the waffling of the furf which continually breaks upon it."
Though the landing of our Gentlemen proved the means of enriching my Journal with the foregoing particulars, the principal object I had in view was, in a great meafurc, unattained; for the day was fpent without getting any one thing from the ifland worth mentioning. The natives, however, were gratified with a fight they never before had ; and, probably, will never have again. And mere curiofity feems to have been their chief motive for keeping the gentlemen under fuch reflraint, and for ufmg every art to prolong their continuance amongfl them.
It has been mentioned, that Omai was fent upon this expedition; and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's interpreter was not the only fervice he performed this day. lie was afked, by the natives, a great many queftions concerning us, our mips, our country, and the fort of arms we ufed; and, according to the account he gave me, his anfwers were not a little upon the marvellous. As, for inftancc, he told them, that our country had fhips as large as their ifland ; on board which were inflruments of war (defcribing our guns), of fuch dimenfions, that feveral people might fit within zhem;
i and
and that one of them was fufficient to crufli the whole ifland at one fhot. This led them to inquire of him, what fort of guns we actually had in our two fhips. lie faid, that though they were but fmall, in comparifon with thofe he had juft defcribed, yet, with fuch as they were, we could, with the greateff eafe, and at the diftance the mips were from the more, deftroy the ifland, and kill every foul in it. They perfevered in their inquiries, to know by what means this could be done; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket. Thefe he produced; the balls, and the gunpowder which was to fet them in motion, were fubmitted to inflection ; and, to fupply the defects of his defcription, an appeal was made to the fenfes of the fpectators It has been mentioned above, that one of the Chiefs had ordered the multitude to form themfelves into a circle. This furnifhed Omai with a convenient ftage for his exhibition. In the center of this amphitheatre, the inconfiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected from his cartridges, was properly difpofed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven, where dinner was dreffmg, fet on fire. The fudden blaft, and loud report, the mingled flame and fmokc, that inftantly fucceeded, now filled the whole aflembly with aftonifhment; they no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had faid.
If it had not been for the terrible ideas they conceived of the guns of our fhips, from this fpecimen of their mode of operation, it was thought that they would have detained the gentlemen all night. For Omai affured them, that, if he and his companions did not return on board the fame day, they might expect that I would fire upon the ifland.
And.
And as we flood in nearer the land in the evening, than wc had done any time before, of which pofition of the ihips they were obferved to take great notice, they, probably, thought we were meditating this formidable attack; and, therefore, fullered their guefls to depart; under the expectation, however, of feeing them again on fhore next morning. But I was too fenfible of the rifk they had already run, to think of a repetition of the experiment.
This day, it feems, was dcflined to give Omai more oc-cafions than one, of being brought forward to bear a principal part in its tranfactions. The ifland, though never before vifited by Europeans, actually happened to have other flrangers refiding in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's being one of Mr. Gore's attendants, that this curious circumflance came to our knowledge.
Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, amongfl the crowd there aflcmblcd, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Iflands. At the diffancc of about two hundred leagues from thofe iflands, an immenfe, unknown ocean intervening, with fuch wretched fea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make ufe of, and fit only for a paffage where fight of land is fcarcely ever loft, fuch a meeting, at fuch a place, fo accidentally vifited by us, may well be looked upon as one of thofe unexpected fituations, with which the writers of feigned adventures love to furprife their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deferve to be recorded for their fingularity.
It may cafily be guefled, with what mutual furprife and Satisfaction Omai and his countrymen engaged in conver-fation.   Their flory, as related by them, is an affecting one.
About
About twenty perfons in number, of both fexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to crofs over to the & neighbouring ifland Ulietea.   A violent contrary wind ari-fing, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former.   Their intended paffage being a very fhort one, their flock of provifions was fcanty, and foon cxhaufled. The hardfhips they Suffered, while driven along by the florm, they knew not whither, arc not to be conceived. They paffed many days without having any thing to eat or drink.   Their numbers gradually diminifhed, worn out by famine and fatigue.   Four men only furvived, when the canoe overfet; and then the perdition of this fmall remnant feemed inevitable.    However, they kept hanging by the fide of their velfel, during fome of the laft days, till Providence brought them in fight of the people of this ifland, who immediately fent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and brought them afhore.   Of the four who were thus faved, one was fince dead.   The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giving an account of their almoft miraculous tranfplantation, fpoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with.   And fo well fa-tisfied were they with their fituation, that they refufett the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai's rcqucfl, of giving them a paffage on board our fhips, to reftore them to their native iflands.   The ftmilarity of manners and language, had more than naturalized them to this fpot; and the frefh connexions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, after fuch a length of time, fufficiently account for their declining to reviflt the places of their birth.   They had arrived upon this ifland at leaft twelve years ago.   For I learnt from Mr, Anderfon, that he found they knew no-Vol. I. D d thing
'77j thing of Captain Wallis's vifit to Otaheite in 1765; nor of feveral other memorable occurrences, fuch as the conquer! of Ulietea by thofe of Bolabola, which had preceded the arrival of the Europeans. To Mr. Anderfon I am alfo indebted for their names, Orououte, Otirreroa, and Tavee; the firft, born at Matavai in Otaheite; the fecond, at Ulietea; and the third at Huaheine.
The landing of our gentlemen on this ifland, though they failed in the object of it, cannot but be confidered as a very fortunate circumftance. It has proved, as we have feen, the means of bringing to our knowledge a matter of fact, not only very curious, but very inftructive. The application of the above narrative is obvious. It will ferve to explain, better than a thoufand conjectures of fpeculative reafoners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the iflands of the South Sea, may have been firft peopled; efpecially thofe that lie remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other*.
* Such accidents as this here related, probably happen frequently in the Pacific Ocean. In 1696, two canoes, having on board thirty perfons of both fexes, were driven, by contrary winds and tempeftuous weather, on the ifle of Samal, one of the Philippines, after being toft about at fea feventy days, and having performed a voyage, from an ifland called by them Amorfot, 300 leagues to the Eafl: of Samal. Five of the number who had embarked, died of the hardlhips fuffered during this extraordinary pafl'age. See a particular account of them, and of the iflands they belonged to, in Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. from p. 196. to p. 215. In the fame Volume,, from p. 282. to p. 320. we have the relation of a fimilar adventure, in 1721, when two canoes, one containing twenty-four, and the other fix perfons, men, women, and children, were driven, from an ifland they called Farroilep, Northward to the ifle of Guam, or Guahan, one of the Ladrones or Mariannes. But thefe had not failed fo far as their countrymen, who reached Samal as above, and they had been at fea only twenty days. There feems to be no reafon to doubt the general authenticity of thelc two relations. The information contained in the letters of the Jefuits, about thefe iflands, now known under the name of the Carolines, and difcovered to the Spaniards by the arrival of the canoes at Samal and Guam, has been adopted by all our later writers. See Prefident de Brofle's Voyages aux Terres Jujlrales, Tom. ii. irom p. 443. to p. 490.   See alfo the Modern Univerfal Hi/lory,
This
This ifland is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of ao° i' South, and in the longitude 2010 45' Eaft, and is about fix leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful fpot, with a furface compofed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Our gentlemen found the foil, where they palled the day, to be light and fandy. But farther up the country, a different fort, perhaps, prevails; as we faw from the fhip, by the help of our glaffes, a reddifh eaft upon the rifing grounds. There the inhabitants have their houfes; for we could perceive two or three, which were long and fpacious. Its produce, with the addition of hogs, we found to be the fame as at the laft ifland wc had vifited, which the people of this, to whom we pointed out its pofition, called Owhava-rouah j a name fo different from Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, which wc learnt from its own inhabitants, that it is highly probable Owhavarouah is another ifland.
From the circumflances already mentioned, it appears, that Wateeoo can be of little ufe to any fhip that wants re-frefhment, unlefs in a cafe of the moft abfolute neceflity. The natives, knowing now the value of fome of our commodities, might be induced to bring off fruits and hogs, to a fhip ftanding off and on, or to boats lying off the reef, as ours did. It is doubtful, however, if any frefh water could be procured. For, though fome was brought, in cocoa nut fhells, to the gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a confiderable diftance •, and, probably, it is only to be met with in fome ftagnant pool, as no running flrcam was any where feen.
According to Omai's report of what he learnt in conver-fation with his three countrymen, the manners of thefe
D d 2 illanders,
1777- iflanders, their method of treating flrangers, and their ge-■ ApwnL > neral habits of life, are much like thofe that prevail at Otaheite, and its neighbouring iiles. Their religious ceremonies and opinions are alfo nearly the fame. For, upon feeing one man, who was painted all over of a deep black colour, and inquiring the reafon, our gentlemen were told, that he had lately been paying the lad good offices to a de-ceafed friend j and they found, that it was upon fimilar occafions, the women cut themfelves, as already mentioned. From every circumflance, indeed, it is indubitable, that the natives of Wateeoo fprung, originally, from the fame flock, which hath fpread itfelf fo wonderfully all over the immenfe extent of the South Sea. One would fuppofe, however, that they put in their claim to a more illudrious extraction ; for Omai affurcd us, that they dignified their ifland with the appellation of Wenooa no te Eatooa, that is, A land of gods; efleeming themfelves a fort of divinities, and poffeffed with the fpirit of the Eatooa. This wild en-thuftaflic notion Omai feemed much to approve of, telling us there were inflances of its being entertained at Otaheite; but that it was univerfally prevalent amongfl the inhabitants of Mataia, or Ofnaburg Ifland.
The language fpoken at Wateeoo was equally well un-dcrflood by Omai, and by our two New Zealanders. What its peculiarities may be, when compared with the other dialects, I am not able to point out; for, though Mr. Anderfon had taken care to note down a fpecimen of it, the natives, who made no diftinction of the objects of their theft, flole the memorandum book.
c h a p,
CHAP- III.
Wenooa-ette, or Otakootaia, vifited.—Account of that Ifland) and of its Produce.—Herveys I fand, or Te-rougge 7nou Attooa, found to be inhabited.—Tranfactions with the Natives.—Their Perfons, Drejs, Language, Canoes.— Fruit lefs Attempt to land there.—Rea-Jons for bearing away fur the Friendly If ands.—P aimer ft 071 s If and touched at.—Defcription of the two Places where the Boats landed.—Refreftoments obtained there.—Conjeclures on the Formation of fuch low Iflands, —Arrival at the Friendly Iflands.
TT   IGHT airs and calms having prevailed, by turns, all i77?. JLj the night of the 3d, the Eafterly fwcll had carried the y Apr-fhips fome diftance from Wateeoo, before day-break.   But Friday4. as I had failed in my object of procuring, at that place, fome effectual fupply, I faw no reafon for flaying there any longer.   I, therefore, quitted it, without regret, and fleered for the neighbouring ifland, which, as has been mentioned, wc difcovered three days before.
With a gentle breeze at Eaft, we got up with it, before ten o'clock in the morning, and I immediately difpatched Mr. Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to land, and get fome food for our cattle. As there feemed to be no inhabitants here to obftruct our taking away whatever we might think proper, I was confident of his being able to make amends for our late difappointment, if the landing could 1 he-
I777-     be effec'ccd.   There was a reef here furrouodinff the land.
April.
u^-y—mJ . as at Wateeoo, and a confiderable furf breaking againft the rocks. Notwithstanding which, our boats no fooner reached the lee, or Weft fide of the ifland, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got fafe on fhore. I could, from the (hip, fee that they had fuccecded fo far ; and I immediately fent a fmall boat to know what farther aftiltance was wanting. She did not return till three o'clock in the afternoon, having waited to take in a lading of what ufeful produce the ifland afforded. As foon as fhe was cleared, ihe was fent again for another cargo ; the Jolly boat was alfo difpatched, and Mr. Gore was ordered to be on board, with all the boats, before night; which was complied with.
The fupply obtained here, confided of about a hundred cocoa nuts for each fhip ; and befides this refrefhment for ourfelves, we got for our cattle fome grafs, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees, and of the wharra tree, as it is called at Otaheite, the pandanus of the Eaft Indies. This latter being of a foft, fpungy, juicy nature, the cattle cat it very well, when cut into fmall pieces; fo that it might be faid, without any deviation from truth, that we fed them upon billet wood.
This ifland lies in the latitude of 19* 15' South, and the longitude of 201° 37' Eaft, about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called it Otakootaia; and * fometimes they fpoke of it under the appellation of Wenooa-ette, which fignillcs little ifland. Mr. Anderfon, who was on fhore with our party, and walked round it, gueffed that it could not be much more than three miles in circuit. From him I alfo learned the following particulars. The 2 beach,
beach, within the reef, is compofed of a white coral fand; above which, the land within does not rife above fix or feven feet, and is covered with a light reddifh foil; but is entirely dcflitute of water.
The only common trees found there were cocoa-palms, of which there were feveral clufters; and vaft numbers of the nvharra. There were, likewife, the callophyUum, furiarta, guettarda, a fpecies of tournefortia, and tabcrna montane, with a few other fhrubs; and fome of the etoa tree feen at Wateeoo. A fort of bind>iveed over-ran the vacant fpaces ; except in fome places, where was found a confiderable quantity of treacle-muftardy a fpecies of /purge, with a few other fmall plants, and the morinda citrlfolia ; the fruit of which is eaten by the natives of Otaheite in times of fcarcity. Omai, who had landed with the party, dreffed fome of it for their dinner ; but it proved very indifferent.
The only bird feen arhongfl the trees, was a beautiful cuckoo, of a chefnut brown, variegated with black, which was fhot. Bur, upon the fhore, were fome egg-birds; a fmall fort of curlew ; blue and white herons; and great numbers of noddies •, which laft, at this time, laid their eggs, a little farther up, on the ground, and often refted on the ivharra tree.
One of our people caught a lizard, of a moft forbidding afpeel, though fmall, running up a tree; and many, of another fort, were feen. The bullies toward the fea, were frequented by infinite numbers of a fort of moth, elegantly fpeckled with red, black, and white. There were alfo feveral other forts of moths, as well as fome pretty butterflies ; and a few other infects.
Though
1777- Though there were, at this time, no fixed inhabitants \_ Ap.F-' f upon the ifland, indubitable marks remained of its being, at leaft, occafionally frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. There were alfo feveral large flones erected, like monuments, under the fhade of fome trees ; and feveral fpaces inclofed with fmaller ones; where, probably, the dead had been buried. And, in one place, a great many cockle-fhells, of a particular fort, finely grooved, and larger than the ftft, were to be feen; from which it was reafonable to conjecture, that the ifland had been vifited by perfons who feed, partly, on fhell-fifh. In one of the huts, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and fome nails, to the full value of what we took away.
As foon as the boats were hoifted in, I made fail again to the northward, with a light air of wind Eafterly; intending to try our fortune at Hervey's Ifland, which was difcovered in 1773, during my laft voyage*. Although it was not above fifteen leagues diftant, yet wc did not get fight of Sunday 6. it till day-break in the morning of the 6th, when it bore Weft South Weft, at the diftance of about three leagues. As we drew near, it, at eight o'clock, wc obferved feveral canoes put off from the fhore ; and they came directly toward the fhips. This was a fight that, indeed, furprized me, as no figns of inhabitants were feen when the ifland was firft difcovered ; which might be owing to a pretty brifk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out, as the fhips paffed to leeward ; whereas now we were to windward.
* See Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 19c. where this ifland is faid to be about fix leagdes in circuit.
As
As we flill kept on toward the iiland, fix or feven of the \777-
1 7 April*
canoes, all double ones, foon came near us.   There were, v.—■—-J from three to fix men, in each of them.   They flopped at the diftance of about a Hone's throw from the fhip; and it was fome time before Omai could prevail upon them to come along-fide; but no intreatics could induce any of them to venture on board.   Indeed their diforderly and clamorous behaviour, by no means indicated a difpofition to truft us, or treat us well.   We afterward learnt that they had attempted to take fome oars out of the Difcovery's boat, that lay along-fide, and ftruck a man who endeavoured to prevent them.   They alfo cut away, with a fliell, a net with meat, which hung over that fhip's flern, and abfo-lutcly refufed to reftore it; though we, afterward, pur-chafed it from them.   Thofe who were about our fhip, behaved in the fame daring manner; for they made a fort of hook, of a long flick, with which they endeavoured, openly, to x*ob us of feveral things; and, at laft, actually got a frock belonging to one of our people, that was towing over-board.   At the fame time, they immediately fhewed a knowledge of bartering,  and fold fome fifh  they had (amongfl which was an extraordinary flounder, fpottcd like porphyry; and a cream-coloured eel, fpottcd with black), for fmall nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them goore.   But, indeed, they caught, wiih the greatefl avidity, bits of paper, or any thing elfe that was thrown to them; and if what was thrown fell into the fea, they made no fcruple to fwim after it.
Thefe people feemed to differ as much in perfon, as in difpofition, from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the diftance between the two iflands is not very great. Their colour was of a deeper eaft; and feveral had a fierce, rugged
Vol. I. E e afpccti
afpect, refembling the natives of New Zealand; but fome were fairer. They had ftrong black hair, which, in general,, they wore either hanging loofe about the moulders, or tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Some, however, had it cropped pretty fhort; and, in two or three of them, it was of a brown, or reddifli colour. Their only covering was a narrow piece of mat, wrapt feveral times round the lower part of the body, and which paffed between the thighs; but a fine cap of red feathers was feen lying in one of the canoes. The fhell of a pearl-oyfter polifhed, and hung about the neck, was the only ornamental fafhion that we obferved amongft them; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, fo generally- prevalent amongft the natives of this Ocean, of puncturing, or tatooing their bodies.
Though fmgular in this, we had the moft unequivocal proofs of their being of the fame common race. Their language approached flill nearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. Like the inhabitants of thefe two iflands, they inquired from whence our fhips came ; and whither bound ; who was our Chief; the number of our men on board; and even the fhip's name. And they very readily anfwercd fuch queftions as we propofed to them. Amongft other things, they told us, they had feen two great fhips, like ours, before ; but that they had not fpoken with them as they failed paft. There can be no doubt, that thefe were the Pvefolution and Adventure. We learnt from them, that the name of their ifland is Te-rouggemou Atooa; and that they were fubject to Teere-vatooeah, king of Wateeoo**   According to the account
* The reader will obferve, that this name bears little affinity to any one of the names of the three Chiefs of Wateeoo, as preferved by Mr, Anderfon.
that
that they gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, fifh, and turtle; the ifland not producing plantains, or breadfruit ; and being deftitute of hogs and dogs. Their canoes, of which near thirty were, at one time, in fight, are pretty large, and well built. In the conftruction of the flern, they bear fome refemblance to thofe of Wateeoo - and the head projects out nearly in the fame manner; but the extremity is turned up inftead of down.
Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we drew near the North Weft part of the ifland ; the only part , where there feemed to be any probability of finding anchorage for our fhips, or a landing-place for our boats. In this pofition, I fent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to found and reconnoitre the coaft, while we flood off and on with the fhips. The inftant the boats were hoifted out, our vifiters in the canoes, who had remained along-fide all the while, bartering their little trifles, fufpended their traffic, and, pufhing for the fhore as fall as they could, came near us no more.
At three o'clock, the boats returned; and Mr. King informed me, " That there was no anchorage for the fhips; and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He faid, that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppofe his landing. And yet, when he drew near enough, they threw fome cocoa-nuts to our people, and invited them to come on fhore ; though, at the very fame time, he obferved that the women were very bufy bringing down a frefh fupply of fpcars and darts.   But, as
E e 2 he
he had no motive to land, he did not give them an opportunity to ufe them."
Having received this report, I confidcrcd, that, as the fhips could not be brought to an anchor, we fhould find that the attempt to procure grafs here, would occafion much delay, as well as be attended with fome danger. Befides, we were equally in want of water; and though the inhabitants had told us, that there was water on their ifland, yet wc neither knew in what quantity, nor from what diftance, we might be obliged to fetch it. And, after all, fuppofing no other obftruction, we were fure, that to get over the reef, would be an operation equally difficult and tedious.
Being thus difappointed at all the iflands we had men with, fince our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen circumftances, having unavoidably retarded our progrefs fo much, it was now impof-fible to think of doing any thing this year, in the high latitudes of the Northern hemifphere, from which we were flill at fo great a diftance, though the feafon for our operations there was already begun. In this fituation, it was abfolutely neceffary to purfue fuch meafures as were moft likely to prcferve the cattle we had on board, in the firft place ; and, in the next place (which was ftill a more capital object), to fave the ftores and provifions of the fhips, that we might be better enabled to profecute our Northern difcoveries, which could not now commence till a year later than was orginally intended.
If I had been fo fortunate as to have procured a fupply of water, and of grafs, at any of the iflands we had lately vifited, it was my purpofe to have flood back to the South, till I
had
had met with a Wefterly wind. But the certain confeqnence *7J?£
of doing this, without fuch a fupply, would have been the \-«—
lofs of all the cattle, before we could poffibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage, with regard to the great object of our voyage.
I, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly Iflands, where I was fure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted : and it being neceffary to run in the night, as well as in the day, I ordered Captain Clcrkc to keep about a league ahead of the Refolution. I ufed this precaution, becaufe his fhip could heft claw off the land y and it was very poflible we might fall in with fome, in our paffage.
The longitude of Hervcy's Ifland, when firft difcovered, deduced from Otaheite, by the time-keeper, was found to be 201° 6 Eaft, and now, by the fame time keeper, deduced from Queen Charlotte's Sound, 2000 56' Eaft. Hence I conclude, that the error of the time-keeper, at this time, did not exceed twelve miles in longitude.
When wc bore away, I fleered Weft by South, with a fine breeze Eafterly. I propofed to proceed firft to Middleburgh, orEooa; thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board, for the cattle, to laft till we mould reach that ifland. But, about noon, next day, thofe Monday 7. faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us fo long, again returned; and I found it neceffary to haul more to the North, to get into the latitude of Palmerfton's and Savage Iflands, difcovered in 1774, during my laft voyage*; that, if neceflity required it, we might have recourfe to them.
* See Cook's Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 2, 3.
This
2i4 AVOYAGETO
J777.        This day, in order to fave our water, I ordered the flill to
v—*-1 be kept at work, from fix o'clock in the morning to four
in the afternoon; during which time, we procured from thirteen to fixtcen gallons of frefh water. There has been lately made fome improvement, as they are pleafed to call it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the worfe.
Thmfdayio. * Thefe light breezes continued till the ioth, when we had, for fome hours, the wind blowing frefh from the North, and North North Weft; being then in the latitude of i8° 38', and longitude 198° 24' Eafl. In the afternoon, we had fome thunder fqualls from the South, attended with heavy rain; of which water, we collected enough to fill five puncheons. After thefe fqualls had blown over, the wind came round to.the North Eafl, and North Weft; being very unfettled
Friday ii. both in ftrength and in pofition, till about noon the next day, when it fixed at North Weft, and North North Weft, and blew a frefh breeze, with fair weather.
Thus were we pei fecutcd with a wind in our teeth, whichever way we directed our courfe ; and we had the additional mortification to find here, thofe very winds, which we had reafon to expect 8° or io° farther South. They came too late; for I durft not truft their continuance ; and the event proved that I judged right.
Sunday 13. At length, at day-break, in the morning of the 13th, we faw Palmcrfton Ifland, bearing Weft by South, diftant about five leagues.   However, we did not get up with it, till eight
Monday 14. o'clock the next morning. 1 then fent four boats, three from the Refolution, and one from the Difcovery, with an officer in each, to fearch the coaft for the moft convenient landing-place.   For, now, we were under an abfolute necef-
3 fay
fhy of procuring, from this ifland, fome food for the cattle; othcrvvife we muft have loft them.
What is comprehended under the name of Palmcrfton's Ifland, is a group of fmall iflots, of which there are, in the whole, nine or ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. The boats firft examined the South Eaftcrnmoft of the iflots which compofe this group; and, failing there, ran down to the fecond, where we had the fatisfaction to fee them land. I then bore down with the fhips, till abreaft of the place, and there we kept Handing off and on. For no bottom was to be found to anchor upon; which was not of much confe-quence, as the party who had landed from our boats, were the only human beings upon the ifland.
About one o'clock, one of the boats came on board, laden with fcurvy-grafs and young cocoa-nut trees ; which, at this time, was a feaft for the cattle. The fame boat brought a mcflage from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party, informing me, that there was plenty of fuch produce upon the ifland, as alfo of the ivharra tree, and fome cocoa-nuts. This determined me to get a good fupply of thefe articles, before I quitted this ftation ; and, before evening, I went afhore in a fmall boat, accompanied by Captain Clerkc.
We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a fmall creek, formed by the reef, of fome-thing more than a boat's length in every direction, and covered from the force of the fea, by rocks projecting out on each fide of it. The ifland is fcarccly a mile in circuit; and not above three feet higher than the level of the fea. It appeared to be compofed entirely of a coral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackifh mould, produced from rotten vegetables.
tables.   Notwithftanding this poor foil, it is covered with
April. °
w-v—-J trees and bullies of the fame kind as at Wcnooa-ette, though with lefs variety; and amongfl thefe are fome cocoa palms. Upon the trees or bufhes that front the fea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men of war birds, Tropic birds, and two forts of boobies, which, at this time, were laying their eggs, and fo tame, that they fulfered us to take them off with our hands. Their ncfls were only a few flicks loofely put together ; and the Tropic birds laid their eggs on the ground, under the trees. Thefe differ much from the common fort, being entirely of a mofl fplendid white, flightly tinged with red, and having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimfon or blood colour. Of each fort, our people killed a confiderable number ; and, though not the moft delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us who had been long confined to a fait diet, and who, confe-quently, could not but be glad of the moil indifferent variety. We met with vail numbers of re:l crabs, creeping about, every where amongft the trees; and we caught feveral fifh that had been left in holes upon the reef, when the fea retired.
At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almoft even with the furface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the moft enchanting profpects, that Nature has, any where, produced. Its bafe was fixed to the fhore, but reached fo far in, that it could not be feen; fo that it feemed to be fu-fpended in the water, which deepened fo fuddenly, that, at rhe diftance of a few yards, there might be feven or eight fathoms. The fea was, at this time, quite unruffled ; and the fun, (hining bright, exppfed the various forts of coral, in the moft beautiful order; forac parts branching into the
water
water with great luxuriance ; others, lying collected in round balls, and in various other figures; all which were ^—~j greatly heightened by fpanglcs of the richell colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were everywhere intcrfperfed. But the appearance of thefe was mil inferior to that of the multitude of fifhes, that glided gently along, fecmingly with the moil perfect fecurity. The colours of the different forts were the mofl beautiful that can be imagined; the yellow, blue, red, black, &c. far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Their various forms, alfo, contributed to increafe the richnefs of this fubmarine grotto, which could not be furveycd without a pleafing tranfport, mixed, however, with regret, that a work, fo flu-pendoufly elegant, fhould be concealed, in a place where mankind could feldom have an opportunity of rendering the praifes juflly due to fo enchanting a fcene.
There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here; if we except a fmall piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach ; which, probably, may have drifted from fome other ifland. But, what is pretty extraordinary, we faw feveral fmall brown rats on this fpot; a circumfiance, perhaps, difficult to account for, unlefs we allow that they were imported in the canoe of which we faw the remains.
After the boats were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pafs the night on fhore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning.
That day, being the 15th, was accordingly fpent, as the Tuefday preceding one had been, in collecting, and bringing on board, food for the cattle, confiding chiefly of palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the ivharra tree.   Having got a fufficient fupply of thefe,
Vol. I, F f by
j«$     DY iunfet, I ordered every body on board.   But having lime
«-1-' or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the nexfc
day, by endeavouring to get fome cocoa-nuts for our people, from the next ifland to leeward, where we could obferve that thofe trees were in much greater abundance, than upon that where we had already landed, and where only the wants of our cattle had been relieved.
Wednef. 16.     W'ah this view, I kept Handing off and on, all night;
and, in the morning, between eight and nine o'clock, I went with the boats to the Well fide of the ifland, and landed with little' difficulty. I immediately fet the people with me to work, to gather cocoa-nuts, which wc found in great abundance. But to get them to our boats was a tedious operation ; for wc were obliged to carry them at leafl half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water. Omai, who was with me, caught, with a fcoop net, in a very fhore time, as much fifh as fcrved the whole party on fhore for dinner, befides fending fome to both fhips. Here were alfo great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war antf Tropic birds ;: fo that we fared fumptuoufly. And it is but doing juflice to Omai to fay, that, in thefe cxcurfions to the uninhabited iflands, he was of the greatefl ufe. For he not only caught the fifh, but drefled thefe, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated flones, after the fafhion of his country, with a dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. The boats made two trips, before night;, well laden ; with the laft, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Williamfon, my third Lieutenant, with a party of men, to prepare another lading for the boats which I propofed to lend next morning.
Thurfdayiy.    I, accordingly, difpatched them at feven o'clock, and they returned laden by noon-  No time was loft in fending them
back
back for another cargo; and they carried orders for every body to be on board by funfet. This being complied with, we hoiftcd in the boats and made fail to the Weftward, with a light air of wind from the North.
Wc found this iflot near a half larger than the other, and almoft entirely covered with cocoa-palms; the greatefl part of which abounded with excellent nuts, having, often, both old and young on the fame tree. They were, indeed, too thick, in many places, to grow with freedom. The other productions were, in general, the fame as at the firft iflot. Two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, with an elliptical paddle, were found on the beach. Probably, thefe had belonged to the fame canoe, the remains of which were feen on the other beach, as the two iflots arc not above half a mile apart. A young turtle had alfo been lately thrown afhorc here, as it was flill full of maggots. There were fewer crabs than at the laft place j but we found fome fcorpions, a few other infects, and a greater number of fifh upon the reefs. Amongft thefe were fome large eels, beautifully fpottcd, which, when followed, would raife themfelves out of the water, and endeavour, with an open mouth, to bite their purfucrs. The other forts were, chiefly, parrot-fifh, mappers, and a brown fpotted rock-fifh, about the fize of a haddock, fo tame, that, inftead of fwimming away, it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. Had we been in abfolute want, a fufficient fupply might have been had; for thoufands of the clams, already mentioned, fluck upon the reef, fome of which weighed two or three pounds. There were, befides, fome other forts of mell-fifh; particularly, the large periwinkle. When the tide flowed, feveral fharks '.came in, over the reef, fome of which our people killed ;
F f 2 but
but they rendered it rather dangerous to walk in the waur at that time.
The party who were left on more with Mr. Williamfon, were a good deal peflcred (as Mr. Gore's had been) with mufquitoes, in the night. Some of them, in their excur-fions, fhot two curlews, exactly like thofe of England; and faw fome plovers, or fand-pipers, upon the more; but, in the wood, no other bird, befides one or two of the cuckoos that were feen at Wenooa-ette.
Upon the whole, we did not fpend our time unprofitably at this laft iflot; for we got there about twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which were equally divided amongll the whole crew; and were, doubtlefs, of great ufe to them, both on account of the juice and of the kernel. A fhip, therefore, pafhng this way, if the weather be moderate, may expect: to fucceed as we did. But there is no water upon cither of the iflots where we landed. Were that article to be had, and a paffage could be got into the lake, as we may call it, fur-rounded by the reef, where a fhip could anchor, I fhould prefer this to any of the inhabited iflands, if the only want were refrefhmcnt. For the. quantity of fifh that might be procured, w7ould be fufficient; and the people might roam about, unmoleftcd by the petulance of any inhabitants.
The nine or ten low iflots, comprehended under the name of Palmerfton's Ifland, may be reckoned the heads or Awn* mits of the reef of coral rock, that connects them together, covered only with a thin coat of fand, yet clothed, as already obferved, with trees and plants, mofl of which are of the fame forts that arc found on the low grounds of the high Iflands of this ocean.
There
There are different opinions, amongft ingenious theorifta, concerning the formation of fuch low iflands as Palmer* fton's. Some will have it, that, in remote times, thefe little feparate heads or iflots were joined, and formed one continued and more elevated tract of land, which the fea, in the revolution of ages, has warned away, leaving only the higher grounds; which, in time, alfo, will, according to this theory, (hare the fame fate. Another conjecture is, that they have been thrown up by earthquakes, and are the effect of internal convulfions of the globe. A third opinion* and which appears to me as the moft probable one, maintains, that they are formed from fhoals, or coral banks, and, of confequence, increaftng. Without mentioning the feveral arguments made ufe of in fupport of each of thefe fyftcms, I mail only defcribe fuch parts of Palmerfton's Ifland, as fell under my own obfcrvation when I landed upon it.
The foundation is, every where, a coral rock ; the foil is coral fand, with which the decayed vegetables have, but in a few places, intermixed, fo as to form any thing like mould. From this, a very ftrong prefumption may be drawn, that thefe little fpots of land, are not of very ancient date, nor the remains of larger iflands now buried in the ocean. For, upon either of thefe fuppofttions, more mould muft have been formed, or fome part of the original foil would have remained. Another circumftance confirmed this doctrine of the increafe of thefe iilots. We found upon them, far beyond the prefent reach of the fea, even in the moft violent ilorms, elevated coral rocks, . which, on examination, appeared to have been perforated, in the fame manner that the rocks arc, that now compofe the outer edge of the reef.   This evidently fhews, that the
fea
V77> fea had formerly reached fo far; and fome of thefe pcrfo-—-w—rated rocks were almofl in the centre of the land.
But the ft rouge ft proof of the increafe, and from the caufe wc have afligned, was the gentle gradation obfcrvable in the plants round the fkirts of the iflands ; from within a few inches of high-water mark, to the edge of the wood. Jn many places, the divifions of the plants, of different growths, were very diftinguifhable, efpecially on the lee, or weft-fide. This, i apprehend, to have been the operation ■of extraordinary high tides, occafioned by violent, accidental gales from the Weilward ; which have heaped up the fand beyond the reach of common tides. The regular and gentle operation of thefe latter, again, throw up fand enough to form a barrier againft the next extraordinary high tide, or florm, fo as to prevent its reaching as far as the former had done, and deftroying the plants that may have begun to vegetate from cocoa-nuts, roots, and feed brought thither by birds, or thrown up by the fea. This, doubtlefs, happens very frequently; for we found many cocoa-nuts, and fome other things, juft fprouting up, only a few inches beyond where the fea reaches at prefent, in places where, it was evident, they could not have had their origin from thofe, farther in, already arrived at their full growth. At the fame time, the increafe of vegetables will add faft to the height of this new-created land; as the fallen leaves, anil broken branches, are, in fuch a climate, foon converted into a true black mould, or foil *.
Perhaps
•* Mr. Anderfon,   in  his journal,   mentions the following particulars, relative to Palmerfton's Ifland, which ftrongly confirm Captain Cook's opinion about ,its formation,   *' On the hit of the two iflots, where we landed, the trees, being in
" great
Perhaps there is another caufe, which, if allowed, will accelerate the increafe of thefe iflands as much as any other; and will alfo account for the fea having receded from thofe elevated rocks before-mentioned. This is, the fprcading of the coral bank, or reef, into the fea ; which, in my opinion, is continually, though imperceptibly, affected. The waves receding, as the reef grows in breadth and height, leave a dry rock behind, ready for the reception of the broken coral and fand, and every other depofit neceffary for the formation of land fit for the vegetation of plants.
In this manner, there is little doubt, that, in time, the whole reef will become one ifland; and, I think, it will extend gradually inward, either from the increafe of the iflots already formed ; or from the formation of new ones, upon the beds of coral, within the inclofed lake, if once they increafe fo as to rife above the level of the fea.
After leaving Palmerfton's Ifland, 1 fleered Weft, with a view to make the beft of my way to Annamooka. We flill continued to have variable winds, frequently between the North and Weft, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much rain. During thefe fhowers, which were, generally, very copious, we faved a confiderable quantity of water; and finding that we could get a greater fupply by the rain, in
** great numbers, had already formed, by their rotten parts, little rifings or eminences, M which, in time, from the fame caufe, may become fmall hills. Whereas, on the firft ** iflot, the trees being lefs numerous, no fuch thing had, as yet, happened. Nevcrthc-** lefs, on that little fpot, the manner of formation was more plainly pointed out. " For, adjoining to it, was a fmall ifle, which had, doubtlefs, been very lately formed ; 44 as it was not, as yet, covered with any trees, but had a great many fhrubs, fome *< of which were growing among pieces of coral that the fea had thrown up. There » was frill a more fure proof of this method of formation a little farther on, where M two patches of fand, about fifty yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches high, «* lay upon the reef, but not, as yet, furnifhed with a fingle bufh, or tree."
one
Apni'     0110 nour' tnan we C0U^ get by diftillation in a month, I laid *—v—~> afide the ilill, as a thing attended with more trouble than profit.
The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more difagrecable in this clofe rainy weather ; and, from the moifturc attending it, threatened foon to be noxious ; as the fhips could not be kept dry, nor the fkuttles open, for the fea. However, it is remarkable enough, that though the only refrefhment we had received fince leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that at New Zealand ; there was nor, as yet, a fingle perfon, on board, fick, from the conftant ufe of fait food, or viciflitude of climate.
Thurfday24, In the night between the 24th and 25th we paffed Savage iriday25.    jflan(i which \ had difcovered in 1774*; and on the 28th,
-Monday 28. ' ■ '
at ten o'clock in the morning, we got fight of the iflands which lie to the Eaftward of Annamooka, bearing North by Weft, about four or five leagues diftant. I fleered to the South of thefe iflands, and then hauled up for Annamooka; which, at four in the afternoon, bore North Weft by North, Fallafajeea South Weft by South, and Komango North by Weft, diftant about five miles. The weather being fqually, with rain, I anchored, at the approach of night, in fifteen fathoms deep water, over a bottom of coral-fand, and fhells; Komango bearing North Weft, about two leagues diftant.
* For an account of the difcovery of Savage Ifland ; a defcription of it; and the behaviour of its inhabitants, on Captain Cook's landing, fee his Voyage, Vol. ii» p. 3, to p. 7.
€ H A P.
CHAP. IV.
Intercourfe with the Natives of Komango, and other Ifiands. —Arrival at Annamooka,—TranfaElions there.—Fee-nou, a principal Chief, from Tongataboo, comes on a Vifit. —The Manner of his Reception in the Iftand, and on board.—Infiances of the pilfering Difpofition of the Natives.—Some Account of Annamooka.—The Paffage from it to Hapaee.
s
OON after we had anchored, two canoes, the one with 1777
four, and the other with three men, paddled toward —f*_r
us, and came along-fide without the leaft hefitation. They Monday z8, brought fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and fugar-canc, which they bartered with us for nails. One of the men came on board; and when thefe canoes had left us, another vifited us; but did not ftay long, as night was approaching. Komango, the ifland nearcft to us, was, at leaft, five miles off; which fhews the hazard thefe people would run, in order to poffefs a few of our moft trifling articles. Ikfides this fupply from the fhore, we caught, this evening, with hooks and lines, a confiderable quantity of fifh.
Next morning, at four o'clock, I fent Lieutenant King, Tuefday29. with two boats, to Komango, to procure rcfrefhmcnts ; and, at five, made the fignal to weigh, in order to ply up to Annamooka, the wind being unfavourable at North Weft.
Vol. I. G g It
It was no fooner day-light, than we were vifited by fix or feven canoes from different iflands, bringing with them, befides fruits and roots, two pigs, feveral fowls, fome large wood-pigeons, fmall rails, and large violet-coloured coots. All thefe they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had alfo other articles of commerce j fuch as pieces of their cloth, fifli-hooks, fmall bafkets, mufical reeds, and fome clubs, fpcars, and bows. But I ordered, that no^ curiofities mould be purchafed, till the fhips fhould be fupplied with provifions, and leave given for that purpofe. Knowing, alfo, from experience, that, if all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would enfue, I ordered that particular perfons mould manage the traffic both on board and on fhore, prohibiting all others to interfere. Before mid-day, Mr. King's boat returned with feven hogs, fome fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots for ourfelves, and fome grafs for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not feem to be numerous; and their huts, which flood clofe to each other, within a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from them, was a pretty large pond of frefh water, tolerably good ; but there was not any appearance of a ftream. With Mr. King, came on board the Chief of the ifland, named Tooboulangee; and another, whofe name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a. prefent to me, and promifed more the next day.
As foon as the boats were aboard, I flood for Annamooka;. and the wind being fcant, I intended to go between Anna-mooka-cttc *, and the breakers to the South Eafl of it. But,
* That is, Little Annamooka.
on drawing near, we met with very irregular foundings, j^7-varying, every eafl, ten or twelve fathoms.   This obliged w—~/ me to give up the defign, and to go to the Southward of all ; which carried us to leeward, and made it neceifary to fpend the night under fail.   It was very dark; and we had the wind, from every direction, accompanied with heavy Ihowers of rain.   So that, at day-light the next morning, we found Wednef. $0. ourfelves much farther off than we had been the evening before ; and the little wind that now blew, was right in our teeth.
Wc continued to*ply, all day, to very little purpofe; and, in the evening, anchored in thirty-nine fathoms water; the bottom coral rocks, and broken fhclls; the Weft point of Annamooka bearing Eafl North Eafl, four miles diftant. Tooboulangce and Taipa kept their promife, and brought off to me fome hogs. Several others were alfo procured by bartering, from different canoes that followed us; and as much fruit as. we could well manage. It was remarkable, that, during the whole day, our vifiters from the iflands would hardly part with any of their commodities to any body but me. Captain Gierke did not get above one or two hogs.
At four o'clock next morning, I ordered a boat to be May. hoiftcd out, and fent the Mafter to found the South Weft Thurfday u fide of Annamooka; where there appeared to be a harbour, formed by the ifland on the North Eaft, and by fmall iflots, and fhoals, to the South Weft and South Eaft. In the mean time, the fhips were got under fail, and wrought up to the ifland.
0
When the Mafter returned, he reported, that he had founded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water, the bottom coral
G g 2, fand;
"777*     fand; that the place was very well fheltered from all winds;
May. ' r . J %
—^ hut that there was no frefh water to be found, except at fome diftance inland ; and that, even there, little of it was to be got, and that little not good. For this reafon only, and it was a very fufficient one, I determined to anchor on the North fide of the ifland, where, during my laft voyage, L had found a place fit both for watering and landing.
It was not above a league diftant; and yet we did not reach it till live o'clock in the afternoon, being confiderably retarded by the great number of canoes that continually crowded round the (hips, bringing to us abundant fupplies of the produce of their ifland. Amongft thefe canoes, there were fome double ones, with a large fail, that carried between forty and fifty men each. Thefe failed round us, apparently, with the fame eafe, as if we had been at anchor. There were feveral women in the canoes, who were, perr haps, incited by curiofity to vifit us ; though, at the fame time, they bartered as eagerly as the men, and ufed the paddle with equal labour and dexterity. I came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the bottom coarfe coral fand ; the ifland extending from Eaft to South Weft ; and the Weft point of the Weftcrnmoft cove South Eaft, about three quarters of a mile diftant. Thus I renamed the very fame ftation which I had occupied when I vifited Annamooka three years before*; and, probably, almofl in the fame place where Tafman, the firft difcoverer of this, and fome of the neighbouring iflands, anchored in 1643 K
* See Captain Cook's laft Voyage, Vol. ii. p. 9.
f See Tafman's account of this ifland, in Mr. Dalrymple's valuable Collection of Voyages to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. p. 79, 80. The few particulars mentioned fey Tafman, agree remarkably with Captain Cook's more extended relation.
The.
The following day, while preparations were making for jW" watering, I went afhore, in the forenoon, accompanied by —
.       . Friday 2.
Captain Clerke, and fome of the Oflicers, to fix on a place where the obfervatorics might be fet up, and a guard be Rationed \ the natives having readily given us leave. They alfo accommodated us with a boat-houfe, to ferve as a tenr, and ihewed us every other mark of civility. Toobou, the Chief of the ifland, conducted me and Omai to his houfe. We found it fituated on a pleafant fpot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grafs-plot furrounded it, which, he gave us to undcrfland, was for the purpofe of cleaning their feer, before they went within doors. I had not, before, obferved fuch an inflance of attention to cleanlinefs at any of the places 1 had vifited in this ocean j but, afterward, found that it was very common at the Friendly Iflands. The floor of Toobou's houfe was covered with mats; and no carpet, in the mofl elegant Englifh drawing-room, could be kept neater; While we were on fhore, we procured a few hogs; and fome fruit, by bartering ; and, before we got on board aqain, the ihips were crowded with the natives. Few of them coming empty-handed, every neceffary refreshment was now in the greatefl plenty.
1 landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines; and, at the fame time, the horfes, and fuch of the cattle as were in a weakly flate, were fent on fhore. Every thing being fettled to my fatisfaction, I returned to the fhip ar. funfet, leaving the command upon the ifland to Mr. King. Taipa, who was now become our fa ft friend, and who feemed to be the only active pcrfon about us, in order to be near our party in the night, as well as the day, had a houfe brought, on men's moulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placed clofe to the fhed which our party occupied.
Next,
May'       Next day, our various operations on more began. Some.
-Lj were employed in making hay for the cattle ; others in fill-urday 3* ing our water calks at the neighbouring ftagnant pool; and a third party in cutting wood. The greateft plenty of this laft article being abrcaft of the mips, and in a fituation the moft convenient for getting it on board, it was natural to make choice of this. But the trees here, which our people erroneoufty fuppofed to be manchincel, but were a fpecies of pepper, called faitanoo by the natives, yielded a juice of a milky colour, of fo corrofive a nature, that it raifed blifters on the fkin, and injured the eyes of our workmen. They were, there Fore, obliged to dcfift at this place, and remove to the cove, in which our guard was ftationcd, and where we embarked our water. Other wood, more fuitable to our purpofes, was there furnifhed to us by the natives. Thefe were not the only employments we were engaged in, for Meffrs. King and Bayly began, this day, to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to get the rate of the time-keepers. In the evening, before the natives retired from our poft, Taipa harangued them for fome time. We could only guefs at the fubjecl; and judged, that he was inftructing them how to behave toward us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of the iftand to market. We experienced the good effeefs of his eloquence, in the plentiful fupply of provifions which, next day, we received.
Nothing worth notice happened on the 4th and 5th, except that, on the former of thefe days, the Difcovery loft her fmall bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. This misfortune made it neceffary to examine the cables of the Refolution, which were found to be unhurt.
Sunday 4. Monday 5.
4
On
On the 6th, we were vifited by a great Chief from Tongataboo, whofe name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleafed to introduce to us as King of all the Friendly Iiles. I was now told, that, on my arrival, a canoe had been dif-patched to Tongataboo with the news ; in confequence of which, this Chief immediately paffed over to Annamooka. The Officer on fhore informed me, that when he firft arrived, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, and paid their obeifance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the folcs of which they alfo touched with each hand, firfl with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little room to fufpcct that a perfon, received with fo much refpect, could be any thing lefs than the King.
In the afternoon, I went to pay this great man a vifit, having firft received a prefent of two fifh from him, brought on board by one of his fervants. As foon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European features, than any I had yet feen here. When the firfl falutation was over, I afked if he was the King. For, notwithftanding what I had been told, finding he was not the man whom I remembered to have feen under that character during my former voyage, I began to entertain doubts. Taipa ofhci-oufly anfwered for him, and enumerated no lefs than one hundred and fifty-three iflands, of which, he faid, Feenou-was the Sovereign. After a fhort flay, our new vifirer, and five or fix of his attendants, accompanied me on board. I gave fuitablc prefents to them all, and entertained them in. fuch a manner, as I thought would be moft agreeable.
In the evening, I attended them on fhore in my boat, into which the Chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return
for
J777. for the prcfents he had received from me. I was now in-s.__„—* formed of an accident which had juft happened, the relation of which will convey fome idea of the extent of the * authority exercifed here over the common people. While Eecnou was on board my fhip, an inferior Chief, for what reafon our people on fhore did not know, ordered all the natives to retire from the poft wc occupied. Some of them having ventured to return, he took up a large flick, and beat them mofl unmercifully. He flruck one man, on the fide of the face, with fo much violence, that the blood gufhed out of his mouth and noflrils; and, after lying fome time motionlefs, he was, at laft, removed from the place, in convulfions. The peribn who had inflicted the blow, being told that he had killed the man, only laughed at it; and, it was evident, that he was not in the leaft forry for what had happened. We heard, afterward, that the poor fuffcrer 'recovered.
The Difcovery having found again her fmall bower ail-Wednef. 7. chor, fhiftcd her birth on the 7th ; but not before her befi bower cable had fhared the fate of the other. This day, I had the company of Fcenou at dinner; and alfo the next Thurfday 8. day, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and fome other Chiefs. It was remarkable, that none but Taipa was allowed to fit at table with him, or even to cat in his prefence. I own that I confidered Fcenou as a very convenient gucft, on account of this etiquette. For, before his arrival, I had, generally, a larger company than I could well find room for, and my tabic overflowed with crowds of both fexes. For it is not the cuflom at the Friendly Iflands, as it is at Otaheite, to deny to their females the privilege of eating in company with the men.
The
The firfl: day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the yg7* natives had ftolen, out of the fhip, a large junk axe. I now v.—r~> applied to Fccnou to exert his authority to get it rcflored to me; and fo implicitly was he obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. Thefe people gave us very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were. Even fome of their Chiefs did not think this profeffion beneath them. On the 9th, one of them was Friday^ detected carrying out of the fhip, concealed under his clothes, the bolt belonging to the fpun yarn winch ; for which I fenteneed him to receive a dozen lafhes, and kept him confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. After this, we were not troubled with thieves of rank. Their fervants, or flaves, however, were flill employed in this dirty work; and upon them a flogging feemed to make no greater im-preflion, than it would have done upon the main-maft. When any of them happened to be caught in the a&, their matters, far from interceding for them, would often advife us to kill them. As this was a punifhmcnt we did not choofe to inflict, they generally efcaped without any punifhmcnt at all; for they appeared to us to be equally infen-fible of the fhame, and of the pain of corporal chaflifement. Captain Clcrke, at laft, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, we thought, had fome effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and completely fhaved their heads; thus pointing them out as objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling our people to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a diftance.
Feenou was fo fond of aflbciating with us, that he dined on board every day ; though, fometimes, he did not partake of our fare.   On the 10th, fome of his fervants brought a Saturday 10.
Vol. I, H h mefs,
Sunday ii.
1777.    mefs, which had been drcfled for him on fhore.   It confifted
May.
of fifh, foup, and yams. Inftead of common water 10 make the foup, cocoa-nut liquor had been made ufe of, in which the fifh had been boiled or ftcwed ; probably in a wooden veffel, with hot flones ; but it was carried on board in a plantain leaf. I tailed of the mefs, and found it fo good, that I, afterward, had fome fifh. dreffed in the fame way. Though my cook fucceeded tolerably well, he could produce nothing equal to the diflu he imitated.
Finding that we had quite exhaufted the ifland, of almoft every article of food that it afforded, I employed the nth in moving 01T, from the fhore, the horfes, obfervatories, and other things that wc had landed, as alfo the party of marines who had mounted guard at our flation, intending to fail, as foon as the Difcovery fhould have recovered her beft bower anchor. Fecnou, underftanding that I meant to proceed directly to Tongataboo, importuned me flrongly to alter this plan, to which he expreffed as much averfion, as if he had fome particular intereft to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an ifland, or rather a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying to the North Eaft. There, he affured us, we could be fupplied plentifully with every refrefhment, in the eafieft man-ner; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in perfon. He carried his point with me j and Hapaee was made choice of for our next flation. As it had never been vifited by any European fhips, the examination of it became an object: with me.
The 12th, and the 13th, were fpent in attempting the recovery of Captain Clerke's anchor, which, after much Wednef. 14. trouble, was happily accompiiihed ; and on the 14th, in the morning, we got under fail, and left Annamooka.
^ This
Monday 12. Tuefday 13.
This ifland is fomewhat higher than the other fmall ifles that furround it; but, flill, it cannot be admitted to the rank of thofe of a moderate height, fuch as Mangeea and Wateeoo. The fhore, at that part where our fhips lay, is compofed of a flccp, rugged coral rock, nine or ten feet high, except where there are two fandy beaches, which have a reef of the fame fort of rock extending crofs their entrance to the fhore, and defending them from the fea. The fait water lake that is in the centre of the ifland, is about a mile and a half broad ; and round it, the land rifes like a bank, with a gradual afcent. But we could not trace its having any communication with the fea. And yet, the land that runs acrofs to it, from the largefl fandy beach, being flat and low, and the foil fandy, it is mofl likely that it may have, formerly, communicated that way. The foil, on the rifing parts of the ifland, and efpecially toward the fea, is either of a reddifh clayey difpofition, or a black, loofc mould; but there is, no where, any flream of frefh water.
The ifland is very well cultivated, except in a few places ; and there are fome others, which, though they appear to lie wafle, arc only left to recover the ftrength cxhaufted by conftant culture; for we frequently faw the natives at work upon thefe fpots, to plant them again. The plantations confift chiefly of yams and plantains. Many of them are very cxtenfivc, and often inclofed with neat fences of reed, difpofed obliquely acrofs each other, about fix feet high. Within thefe, we often faw other fences of lefs compafs, funrounding the houfes of the principal people. The breadfruit, and cocoa-nut trees, are interfperfed with little order ; but chiefly near' the habitations of the natives ; and the other parts of the ifland, efpecially toward the fea, and about the fides of the lake, are covered with trees and bufhes of a moft luxuriant growth; the laft place having a
II h 2 great
great many mangroves, and the firfl: a vaft number of the faitanoo trees already mentioned. There feem to be no rocks* or flones, of any kind, about the ifland, that are not coral; except in one place, to the right of the fandy beach, where there is a rock twenty or thirty feet high, of a calcareous ftone, of a yellowifh colour, and a very clofe texture. But even about that place, which is the highed part of the land, are large pieces of the fame coral rock that compofes the fhore.
Befides walking frequently up into the country, which we were permitted to do without interruption, we fometimes amufed ourfelves in fhooting wild ducks, not unlike the widgeon, which are very numerous upon the fait lake, and the pool where we got our water. In thefe excurfions, we found the inhabitants had often deferted their houfes to come down to the trading place, without entertaining any fufpicion, that ftrangers, rambling about, would take away, or deflroy, any thing that belonged to them. But though, from this circumflance, it might be fuppofed that the greater part of the natives were fometimes collected at the beach, it was impoffible to form any accurate computation of- their number ; as the continual rcfort of vifitcrs from other iflands, mixing with them, might eafily miflead one. However, as there was never, to appearance, above a thoufand perfons collected at one time, it would, perhaps, be fufficient to allow double that number for the whole ifland; The place where fuch numbers affembled daily, and the bay where our boats landed, are faithfully rcprefented in a. drawing by Mr. Webber.
To the North and North Eafl of Annamooka, and in the direct track to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, the fea is fprinkled with a great number of fmall ifles.   Amidfl the fhoals and rocks adjoining to this group, I could not be 4 affured
afliired that there was a free or fafc paffage for fuch large jW* ihips as ours; though the natives (ailed through the in- v.—*-—t tervals in their canoes.   For this fubftantial reafon, when we weighed anchor from Annamooka, I thought it neceffary to go to the Weftward of the above iflands, and Wednef. i > fleered North North Welt, toward Kao * and Toofoa, the two molt Wefterly iflands in fight, and remarkable for their great height.   Fcenou, and his attendants, remained on board the Refolution till near noon, when he went into the large failing canoe, which had brought him from Tongataboo, and flood in amongfl the clutter of iflands above mentioned, of which we were now almoft abrcaft; and a tide or current from the Weftward had fet us, fince our failing in the morning, much over toward them.
They lie fcattered, at unequal diftances, and are, in ge- * neral, nearly as high as Annamooka ; but only from two or three miles, to half a mile in length, and fome of them fcarcely fo much. They have either fteep rocky mores like Annamooka, or .reddifh cliffs ; but fome have fandy beaches, extending almofl their whole length. Mofl of them are entirely clothed wiih trees, amongft which are many cocoa palms, and each forms a profpecT like a beautiful garden' placed in the fea. To heighten this, the ferenc weather we now had. contributed very much; and the whole might fupply the imagination with an idea of fome fairy land
* As a proof of the great difficulty of knowing accurately the cxacl: names of the So'uth Sea Iflands, as procured from the natives, I obferve that what Captain Cook calls Aghao, Mr. Anderfon calls Kao ; and Tafman 8 drawing, as I find it lit Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, gives the name of Kaybay to the fame ifland, • Tafman's and Captain Cook's Amattafoa, is, with Mr. Anderfon, Tofoa.< Captain Cook's Komango^ is Tafman's Amango. There is fcarcely an inlrance, in which fuclr variations are not obfervable. Mr. Anderfon's great attention to matters of this fort being, as we learn from Captain King, well known to every body onboard, and admitted always by Captain Cook himfelf, his mode of fpclling has been adopted on the engraved chart of the Friendly Iflands \ which has made it neceffary to adopt it ulfo, in printing the journal.
realized*
mf* realized. It mould feem, that fome of them, at lead, may have been formed, as we fuppofed Palmerfton's Ifland to have been ; for there is one, which, as yet, is entirely fand, and another, on which there is only one bulb, or tree.
At four o'clock in the afternoon being the length of Kotoo, the Wcfternmoft of the above duller of fmall iflands, we fleered to the North, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard, keeping along the Well fide of a reef of rocks, which lie to the Weftward of Kotoo, till we came to their Northern extremity, round which we hauled in for the ifland. It was our intention to have anchored for the night; but it came upon us before we could find a place in lefs than fifty-five fathoms water; and rather than come to in this depth, I chofe to fpend the night under fail.
We had, in the afternoon, been within two leagues of Toofoa, the fmoke of which we faw feveral times in the day. The Friendly Iflanders have fome fupcrftitious notions about the volcano upon it, which they call Kollofeea, and fay it is an Otooa, or divinity. According to their account, it fometimes throws up very large flones ; and they compare the crater, to the fize of a fmall iflot, which has never ceafed fmoking in their memory; nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We fometimes faw the fmoke riling from the centre of the ifland, while we were at Annamooka, though at the diftance of at leaft ten leagues. Toofoa, we were told, is but thinly inhabited, but the water upon it is good.
Thurfttoyi$. At day-break the next morning, being then not far from Kao, which is a vafl rock of a conic figure, we fleered to the Eaft, for the paffage between the iflands Footooha and Flafaiva, with a gentle breeze at South Eaft. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and remained with us all
day.
THE   PACIFIC OCEAN. day.   He brought with him two hogs, and a quantity of J777-
May.
fruit; and, in the courfe of the day, feveral canoes, from \_ the different iflands round us, came to barter quantities of the latter article, which was very acceptable, as our flock was nearly expended. At noon, our latitude was 190 49' 45" South, and we had made feven miles of longitude from Annamooka; Toofoa bore North, 88° Weft; Kao North, 710 Weft; Footooha North, 890 Weft; and Flafaiva South, i2°Weft.
After pafting Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks; and, as there was but little wind, it coft us fome trouble to keep clear of them. This reef lies between Footooha and Neeneeva, which is a fmall low ifle, in the direction of Eaft North Eaft from Footooha, at the diftance of feven or eight miles. Footooha is a fmall ifland, of middling height, and bounded all round by a fleep rock. It lies South 670 Eaft, diftant fix leagues from Kao, and three leagues from Kotoo, in the direction of North 330 Eaft. Being paft the reef of rocks juft mentioned, we hauled up for Neeneeva, in hopes of fmding anchorage ; but were again difappointed, and obliged to fpend the night, making fhort boards. For, although we had land in every direction, the fea was unfathomable.
In the courfe of this night, we could plainly fee flames iffuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, though to no great height.
At day-break in the morning of the 16th, with a gentle Friday 16. breeze at South Eaft, we fleered North Eaft for Hapaee, which was now in fight; and we could judge it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. About nine o'clock, wc could fee it plainly forming three iflands, nearly of an equal fize; and foon after, a fourth to the
Southward
lZ77'    "Southward-of thefe, as large as the others.   Each feemed to
May. °
W—v—be about fix or feven miles long, and of a fimilar height and appearance. The Northernmofl of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the Southernmost Hoo-laiva; but all four are included, by the natives, under the general name Hapaee.
The wind fcanting upon us, we could not fetch the land ; fo that we were forced to ply to windward. In doing this, we once palled over fome coral rocks, on which we had only fix fathoms water ; but the moment we were over them, found no ground with eighty fathoms of line. At this time, tho iiles of Hapaee bore, from North, 500 Eaft, to South, 90 Weft. We got up with the North ernmofl: of thefe ifles by fun fet; and there found ourfelves in the very fame diftrefs, for want of anchorage, that we had experienced the two preceding evenings; fo that we had another night to fpend under fail, with land and breakers in every direction. Toward the evening, Fccnou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Flapaee, and took Omai in the canoe with him. He did not forget our difagreeablc fituation ; and kept vip a good lire, all night, by way of a land-mark.
Saturday 17. As foon as the day-light returned, being then clofe in with Foa, we faw it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running even with the furface of the fea, from the one ifland to the other. I now difpatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was foon found; and wc came to, abreaft of a reef, being that which joins Lefooga to Foa (in the fame manner that Foa is joined to Haanno), having twenty-four fathoms depth of water; the bottom coral fand. In this flation, the northern point of Hapaee, or the North end of Haanno, bore North, 160 Eaft.    The Southern point
of
of Hapaee, or the South end of Hoolaiva, South, 290 Weft; and the North end of Lefooga, South, 650 Eaft. Two ledges of rocks lay without us ; the one bearing South, 500 Weft ; and the other Weft by North ± North, diftant two or three miles. We lay before a creek in the reef, which made it convenient landing at all times; and we were not above three quarters of a mile from the more.
Vol. L
I i
CHAP.
chap. v.
Arrival of the Ships at Hapaee, and friendly Reception there.—Prefents and Solemnities on the Occafon.— Single Combats with Clubs.—Wr eft ling and Boxing Matches.—Female Combatants.—Marines exereifed.—A Dance performed by Men.—Fireworks exhibited.—The Night-entertainments of fnging and dancing particularly defcribed.
1777. Tf3 Y the time we had anchored, the fhips were filled with t ,May* j J3 the natives, and furrounded by a multitude of canoes, Saturday 17. £jje(j ajfQ        therrlt   They brought, from the fhore, hogs,
fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to the people of the ifland, I foon accompanied them on fhore, for that purpofe, landing at the North part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the fhip's flation.
The Chief conducted me to a houfe, or rather a hut, fituated clofe to the fea-beach, which I had feen brought thither, but a few minutes before, for our reception. In this Fccnou, Omai, and myfelf, were feated. The other Chiefs, and the multitude, compofed a circle, on the outfide, fronting us; and they alfo fat down. I was then a Iked, How long I intended to flay ? On my faying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come and fit by me, and pro-7 claim
«claim this to the people.   He then harangued them, in a
fpcech moftly dictated by Feenou.   The purport of it, as I <—v--►
learnt from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that, during my ffay, they muft not Ileal any thing, nor moleft me any other way; and that it was expected, they ihould bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the mips, where they would receive, in exchange for them, fuch and fuch things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finifhed this addrefs to the affembly, Feenou left us.   Taipa then took occafion to fignify to me, that it was necellary I mould make a prefent to the Chief of the iftand, whofe name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this; and gave him fuch articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him brought upon me demands, of the fame kind, from two Chiefs of other ifles who were prefent; and from Taipa himfelf.   When Feenou returned, which was immediately after I had made the laft of thefe prefents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for fuffering me to give away fo much ; but I looked upon this as a mere fineffe; being confident that he acted in concert with the others.   He now took his feat again, and ordered Earoupa to fit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the fame purpofe; dictating, as before, the heads of the fpeech.
Thefe ceremonies being performed, the Chief, at my requeft, conducted me to three ftagnant pools of frefh water, as he was pleafed to call it: and, indeed, in one of thefe the water was tolerable, and the fituation not inconvenient for filling our cafks. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our former ftation, where I found a baked" hog, and fome yams, fmoking hot, ready to be carried on
I i 2 board
board for my dinner. I invited Feenou, and his friends, to partake of it; and we embarked for the fhip ; but none but himfelf fat down with us at the table. After dinner I conducted them on fhore ; and, before I returned on board, the Chief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. Our fupply of provifions was copious; for, in the courfe of the day, we got, by barter, along-fide the fhip, about twenty fmall hogs, befide fruit and roots. I was told, that, on my firft landing in the morning, a man came off to the fhips, and ordered every one of the natives to go on fhore. Probably, this was done with a view to have the whole body of inhabitants prefent at the ceremony of my reception ; for when that was over, multitudes of them returned again to the fhips.
Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who fcarcely ever quitted the Chief, and now flcpt on fhore, came on board The object of the vifit, was to require my prefence upon the ifland. After fome time, I accompanied them; and, upon landing, was conducted to the fame place where I had been feated the day before ; and where 1 faw a large concourfe of people already aflembled. I guefled that fomething more than ordinary was in agitation; but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me.
I had not been long feated, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in fight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-canes. They depofited their burdens, in two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the fide they came from. Soon after, arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the fame kind of articles ; which were collected into two piles upon that fide.   To thefe were tied two pigs* and fix fowls; and to
thofe,
thofe, upon the left, fix pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa feated himfelf before the feveral articles upon the left; and another Chief before thofe upon the right; they being, as I judged, the two Chiefs who had collected them, by order of Feenou, who feemed to be as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka ; and, in confequence of his commanding fuperiority over the Chiefs of Hapaee, had laid this tax upon them for the prefent occafion.
As foon as this munificent collection of provifions was laid down in order, and difpofed to the bctl advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Prefently after, a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. Thefe paraded about, for a few minutes, and then retired; the one half to one fide, and the other half to the other fide ; feating themfelves before the fpectators. Soon after, they fucceifively entered the lifts, and entertained us with fingle combats. One champion, rifing up and flepping forward from one fide, challenged thofe of the other fide, by expreffive gef-tures, more than by words, to fend one of their body to op-pofe him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally the cafe, the two combatants put themfelves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which continued till one or other owned himfelf conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As foon as each combat was over, the victor fquatted himfelf down facing the Chief, then rofe up, and retired. At the fame time, fome old men, who feemed to fit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words;. and the multitude, efpecially thofe on the fide to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired, in two or three huzzas.
This
This entertainment was, now and then, fufpended for a few minutes.   During thefe intervals there were both wreftling and boxing matches.   The firft were performed in the fame manner as at Otaheite ; and the fecond differed very little from the method practifed in England.   But what ftruck us with moft furprife, was, to fee a couple of lufty wenches flep forth, and begin boxing, without the leaft ceremony, and with as much art as the men.   This conteft, however, did not laft above half a minute, before one of them gave it up.   The conquering heroine received the fame applauf'e from the fpectators, which they bellowed upon the fuccefs-ful combatants of the other fcx.  We expreffed fome dif-like at this part of the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lifts. They feemed to be girls of fpirit, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not in-terpofed to part them.   All thefe combats were exhibited in the midft of, at leaft, three thoufand people; and were conducted with the greatefl good humour on all fides; though fome of the champions, women as well as men, received blows, which, doubtlefs, they muft have felt for fome time after.
As foon as thefe diverfions were ended, the Chief told me, that the heaps of provifions, on our right-hand, were a prefent to Omai; and that thofe, on our left-hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it was convenient; but that there would be no occafion to fet any of our people as guards over them, as I might be affured, that not a fingle cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved ; for I left every thing behind, and returned to the fhip to dinner, carrying the Chief with me;
and
and when the provifions were removed on board, in the afternoon, not a fingle article was miffing. There was as much as loaded four boats ; and I could not but be ftrudk with the munificence of Feenou ; for this prefent far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the Sovereigns of the various iflands I had vifited in the Pacific Ocean. I loft no time in convincing my friend, that I was not infen-fible of his liberality ; for, before he quitted my fhip, I bellowed upon him fuch of our commodities, as, I gueffed, were moft valuable in his eftimation. And the return I made was fo much to his fatisfaction, that, as foon as he got on fhore, he left me flill indebted to him, by fending me a frefh prefent, confiding of two larg'e hogs, a confiderable quantity of cloth, and fome yams.
Feenou had expreffed a defire to fee the marines go through their military exercife. As I was defirous to gratify his curiofity, I ordered them all a fhore, from both fhips, in the morning of the 20th. After they had performed various TueWay 2o, evolutions, and fired feveral vollies, with which the numerous body of fpectators feemed well pleafed, the Chief entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactnefs, far furpafling the fpecimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of a dance,, fo entirely different from any thing I had ever feen, that, I fear, I can give no defcription that will convey any tolerable idea of it, to my readers. It was performed by men ; and one hundred and five perfons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an inftrument neatly made, fhaped fomewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a fmall handle, and a thin blade ; fo that they were very light.   With thefe inflruments they made many and
various
1777.
May.
various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a different attitude of the body, or a different movement. At iii ft, the performers ranged themfelves in three lines; and, by various evolutions, each man changed his flation in fuch a manner, that thofe who had been in the rear, came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the fame pofition ; but thefe changes were made by pretty quick tranfitions. At one time, they extended themfelves in one line; they, then, formed into a femicircle; and, laflly, into two fquare columns. While this laft movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me; with which the whole ended.
The mufical inflruments confided of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which fome varied notes were produced, by beating on them with two dicks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the dancers were much aflidcd or directed by thefe founds, but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined at the fame time. Their fong was not deditute of plcafing melody; and all their correfponding motions were executed with fo much fkill, that the numerous body of dancers feemed to act, as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that fuch a performance would have met with univcrfal applaufe on a European theatre ; and it fo far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they feemed to picque themfelves upon the fuperiority they had over us. As to our mufical indruments, they held none of them in the lead edecm, except the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our French horns, in particular, feemed to be held in great contempt; for neither here, nor at any other of the iflands, would they pay the fmallcd attention to them.
3 In
In order to give them a more favourable opinion of Eng-IhTi amufements, and to leave their minds fully imprcllecl w ■■„—./ with the deepefl: fenfe of our fuperior attainments, I directed fome fireworks to be got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the prefence of Fcenou, the other Chiefs, and a vad concourfe of their people. Some of the preparations we found damaged ; but others of them were in excellent order, and fucceeded fo perfectly, as to anfwer the end I had in view. Our water and iky-rockets, in particular, plcafed and aftonifhed them beyond all conception; and the feale was now turned in our favour.
This, however, feemed only to furnifli them with an additional motive to proceed to frefh exertions of their very fingular dexterity; and our fireworks were no fooncr ended, than a fucceflion of dances, which Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As * a prelude to them, a band of mufic, or chorus of eighteen men, feated themfelves before us, in the centre of the circle, compofed by the numerous fpectators, the area of which was to be the fcene of the exhibitions. Four or five of this band, had pieces of large bamboo, from three to five or fix feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a vertical pofition, the upper end open, but the other end clofed by one of the joints. With this clofe end, the performers kept conilantly flriking the ground, though flowly, thus producing different notes, according to the diUcrcnt lengths of the inflruments, but all of them of the hollow or bafc fort g to counteract: which, a pcrfon kept flriking quickly, and with two dicks, a piece of the fame fubitance, fplit, and
* Mr. Anderfon'? account of the night dances being much fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be difplCnfed that it has been adopted.
Vol. L
laid
iSay' *a*^ along the ground, and, by that means, furnifhing a v—* tone as acute, as thofe produced by the others were grave*. The reft of the band, as well as thofe who performed upon the bamboos, fung a flow and foft air, which fo tempered the harfhcr notes of the above inflruments, that no bye-dander, however accuftomed to hear the moft perfect: and varied modulation of fweet founds, could avoid confefP ing the vaft power, and pleafmg effect, of this fimple harmony.
The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered the circle. Moft of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the crimfon flowers of the China rofe, or others; and many of them had ornamented their perfons with leaves of trees, cut with a great deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their faces toward it, and began by finging a foft air, to which refponfes were made by the chorus in the fame tone; and thefe were repeated alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their fong with feveral very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces* and in other directions at the fame time, making conftantly a ftep forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the af-fembly, fung fome time, and retreated ilowly in a body, to that part of the circle which was oppofite the hut where the principal fpectators fat. After this, one of them advanced from each fide, meeting and pafling each other in the front, and continuing their progrefs round, till they came to the reft. On which, two advanced from each fide, two of whom alfo palled each other, and returned as the former j but the other two remained, and to thefe came one, from each
fide,
fide, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed a circle about the chorus.
Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker mcafurc, in which they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and mapped their fingers, repeating fome words in conjunction with the chorus. Toward the end. as the quicknefs of the mufic increafed, their gettures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity; and fome of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent. Though this part of the performance, moft probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to cjifpiay the aftonifh-ing variety of their movements.
To this grand female ballet, fucceeded one performed by fifteen men. Some of them were old ; but their age feemed to have abated little of their agility or ardour for the dance. They were difpofed in a fort of circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the affembly, nor inward to the chorus ; but one half of their circle faced forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary direction. They, fometimes, fung flowly, in concert with the chorus ; and, while thus employed, they alfo made feveral very fine motions with their hands, but different from thofe made by the women, at the fame time inclining the body to either fide alternately, by raifing one leg, which was ftretched outward, and refting on the other; the arm of the fame fide being alfo ftretched fully upward. At other times, they recited fentences in a mufical tone, which were anfwered by the chorus ; and, at intervals, increafed the meafure of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never varied.   At the end, the rapidity of the mufic, and of the
K k 2 dancing,
dancing, increafed fo much, that it was fcarcely poflible to diflinguifh the different movements; though one might fuppofc the actors were now almofl tired, as their performance had lafled near half an hour.
After a confiderable interval, another act, as we may call it, began. Twelve men now advanced, who placed themfelves in double rows fronting each other, but on oppofite fides of the circle; and, on one fide, a man was flationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated feveral fen-tences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied. They then fung flowly ; and afterward danced and fung more quickly, for about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they had fucceeded.
Soon after they had finiflied, nine women exhibited themfelves, and fat down fronting the hut where the Chief was. A man then rofe, and flruck the firfl of thefe women on the back, with both fids joined. He proceeded, in the fame manner, to the fecond and third j but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident or defign I cannot tell, inftead of the back, he flruck her on the breaft. Upon this, a perfon rofe inflantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head; and he was carried off without the leaft noife or difordcr. But this did not fave the other five women from fo odd a discipline, or perhaps neceffary ceremony; for a perfon fucceeded him, who treated them in the fame manner. Their difgrace did not end here ; for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their performance twice difapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that of the firfl women, except in this one circumilance, that the prefent fet, fometimes raifed the body upon one leg,
by
by a fort of double motion, and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept mapping their fingers; and, at the end, they repeated, with great agility, the brifk movements, in which the former group of female dancers had fhewn themfelves fo expert.
In a little time, a perfon entered unexpectedly, and faid fomething in a ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a dance compofed of the men who attended, or had followed, Fcenou. They formed a double circle (i. e. one within another) of twenty-four each, round the chorus, and began a gentle foothing fong, with correfponding motions of the hands and head. This lafled a confiderable time, and then changed to a much quicker meafure, during which they repeated fentences,, either in conjunction with the chorus, or in anfwer to fome fpoken hy that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the women had done, and again advanced, on each fide, in a triple row, till they formed a femicircle, which was done very flowly, by inclining the body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it down. They accompanied this, with fuch a foft air as they had fung at the beginning; but foon changed it to repeat fentences in a harfher tone, at the fame time quickening the dance very much, tiil they finifhed with a general fhout-and clap of the hands. Fhe fame was repeated feveral; times; but, at laff, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning, danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally e.lofed with feveral very dexterous tranfpofitions of the two-circles.
The entertainments of this memorable night concluded' with  a, dance, in  which  the principal  people prefent
exhibited..
exhibited. It refembled the immediately preceding one, in fome refpects, having the fame number of performers, who began nearly in the fame way; but their ending, at each interval, was different. For they increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, making their heads from moulder to moulder, with fuch force, that a fpeetator, unaccuftomed to the fight, would fuppofe, that they ran a rifk of diflo-cating their necks. Thi3 was attended with a fmart clapping of the hands, and a kind of favage holla! or fhriek, not unlike what is fometimes practifed in the comic dances on our European theatres. They formed the triple femi-circle, as the preceding dancers had done; and a perfon, who advanced at the head on one fide of the femicircle, began by repeating fomething in a truly mufical recitative, which was delivered with an air fo graceful, as might put to the blufh our moft applauded performers. He was an-fwered in the fame manner, by the perfon at the head of the oppofite party. This being repeated feveral times, the whole body, on one fide, joined in the refponfes to the whole correfponding body on the oppofite fide, as the femicircle advanced to the front; and they finifhed, by fmging and dancing as they had begun.
Thefe two laft dances were performed with ib much fpirit, and fo great exactnefs, that they met with univerfal approbation. The native fpectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the feveral performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applaufes at fome particular parts; and even a ftranger, who never faw the diverfion before, felt fimilar fatisfaction, at the fame in-ilant. For though, through the whole, the moft ftrict concert was obferved, fome of the gefturcs were fo expreflive, that it might be faid, they fpoke the language that accompanied them ; if we allow that there is any connexion bell tween
twccn motion and found. At the fame time, it fhould be obferved, that though the mufic of the chorus, and that of the dancers, correfponded, conftant practice in thefe favourite amufements of our friends, feems to have a great (hare in effecting the exact time they keep in their performances. For we obferved, that if any of them happened accidentally to be interrupted, they never found the fmallcft difficulty in recovering the proper place of the dance or fong. And their perfect difcipline was, in no inftancc, more remarkable, than in the fudden tranfitions they fo dexteroufly made from the ruder exertions, and harfli founds, to the foftcft airs, and gentlefl movements*.
The place where the dances were performed, was an open fpace amongfl the trees, juft by the fea, with lights, at fmall intervals, placed round the infide of the circle. The concourfe of people was pretty large, though not equal to the number affemblcd in the forenoon, when the marines exercifed. At that time, fome of our gentlemen gueffed there might be prefent about five thoufand perfons;. others thought there were more; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably, came nearer to the truth*
* In a former note, at p. 188. it was obferved, that the fongsand dances of the Caroline Iflandcrs, in the North Pacific, bear a great refemblance to thofe of the inhabitants ef Wateeoo. The remark may be now extended to thofe of the Friendly Iflandcrs, defcribed' at large in this chapter. That the reader may judge for himfelf, I have fekefed the following particulars from Father Cantova's account.   " Pendant la-
nuit, au clair de la lunc, ils s'aUemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter &c danier *4 devant la maifon de leur Taviolc. Leurs danfes fe Font au fon de la voix, car ils " n'ont point dlnftrumcnt tie mufique. La bcautc de la danfe, corifitfe dans Pexaelc 4t uniformito des mouvemens du corps. Les homines, feparcs des femme3, fe portent ** vis-a-vis les uns des autres ; apres quoi, ils remucnt la tete, les bras, les mains, les « pieds, en cadence.—Leur tete eft couvcrte de plumes, ou de fleurs ;—et I'on voit. at-** tachties a leurs oreilles, des feuillcs de palmier tifiues avec aflezd'art.—Lesfemmes, «* de leur cote,—fe regardant les lines )es autre*, commenccnt un chant pathetiquc &r " Vangoureux, accompagnant le fori de leur voix du mouvemcnt cadence de la tete & " des bras."   Lettm Edifitmtes cs' Curieufit, Tom. xv. p. 314. 315.
C II A P.
chap. vi.
Defcription of Lefooga.—Its cultivated State.—Its Extent.—Tranfaflicns there.—A Female Oculifl —Singular Expedients for faving off the Hair.—The Ships ■ change their Station—A remarkable Mount and Stone. —Defcription of Hoolaiva.—Account of Poulaho, King of the Friendly Ifands—Refjpe&Jul Manner in which he is treated by his People.—Departure from the Hapaee Ifands.—Some Account of Kotoo.—Return of the Ships to Annatnooka.—Poulaho and Feenou meet,— Arrival at eTo?igataboo.
May.'     /CURIOSITY, 011 both fides,  being now fufficiently *—*—j-*  V_v* gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertainments I have defcribed, I began to have time to look about Weckief. 2i. me.   Accordingly, next day, I took a walk into the iiland of Lefooga, of which I was defirous to obtain fome knowledge.   I found it to be, in feveral refpects, fuperior to Annamooka.   The plantations were both more numerous, and more cxtenfivc. In many places, indeed, toward the fea, efpecially on the Ealt fide, the country is flill wade ; owing, perhaps, to the fandy foil $ as it is much lower than Annamooka, and its furrounding iiles.   Bur, toward the middle of the iiland, the foil is better ; and the marks of confiderable population, and of improved cultivation, were very confpicuous.   for we met here with very large plantations, X inclofcd
inclofed in fuch a manner, that the fences running parallel to each other, form fine fpacious public roads, that would appear ornamental in countries where rural conveniences have been carried to the greatefl perfection. We obferved large fpots covered with the paper mulberry-trees ; and the plantations, in general, were well flocked with fuch roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the ifland. To thefe I made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of Indian corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. At one place was a houfe, four or five times as large as thofe of the common fort, with a large area of grafs before it j and, I take it for granted, the people refort thither on certain public occafione. Near the landing-place, we faw a mount, two or three feet high, covered with gravel; and on it flood four or five fmall huts, in which, the natives told us, the bodies of fome of their principal people had been interred.
The ifland is not above feven miles long j and, in fome places, not above two or three broad. The Eafl: fide of it, which is expofed to the trade-wind, has a reef, running to a confiderable breadth from it, on which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is not above half a mile diftant; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef, which is then partly dry, from the one ifland to the other. The fhore itfelf is either a coral rock, fix or feven feet high, or a fandy beach; but higher than the Weft fide; which, in general, is not more than three or four feet from the level of the fea, with a fandy beach its whole length.
When I returned from myexcurfion into the country, and went on board to dinner, I found a large failing canoe fall to the fhip's ftern.   In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom
Vol. I. LI I had
J777; I had feen at Tongataboo, during my laft voyage ; and who \—-v~—t was then fuppofed by us to be the King of that ifland. He fat in the canoe, with all that gravity, by which, as I have mentioned in my Journal*, he was fo remarkably diftinguifhed at that time; nor could I, by any intreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the fhip. Many of the iflanders were prefont; and they all called him Areekee, which fignifies King. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Feenou, however extenfive his authority over them, both here, and at Annamooka, had appeared to be; which had, all along, inclined me to fufpccf, that he was not the King; though his friend Taipa had taken pains to make me believe he was, Latooliboula remained under the ftern till the evening, when he retired in his canoe to one of the iflands. Feenou was on board my fhip at the fame times, but neither of thefe great men took the leaft notice of the other.
TWdayza. Nothing material happened the next day, except that fome of the natives flole a tarpaulin, and other things, from off the deck.   They were foon miffed, and the thieves purfued ;
• Sec Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 206, 207. The name of this extraordinary perfonago is there faid to be Kohagee-too Fallangou ; which cannot, by the moft fkil-ful ctymologift, be tortured into the leaft moil diftant refemblance of Latooliboula. It is remarkable, that Captain Cook fhould not take any notice of his having called the fame perfon by two names fo very different. Perhaps we may account for this by fuppofing one to be the name of the perfon, and the other the defcription of his title or rank. This fuppofitlon feems well founded, when we confuler, that Latoo, in the language of thefe people, is fometimes ufed to fignify a Great Chief j and Dr. Poller, in his Obfervations, p. 378, 379. and elfewhere, fpeaks of the fovereign of Tongataboo, under the title of their Latoo. This very perfon is called, by Dr. F oiler, p. 370. Latoo-Nipooroo; which furnifhes a very (hiking inftancc of the variations of our people in writing down the fame word as pronounced by the natives. However, we can cafily tnicc the affinity between Nipooroo and Libouia, as the changes of the confoiiants arc fuch as sure perpetually made, upon hearing a word pronounced, to which our ears have not been aecuftomed. Mr, Anderfon here agrees with Captain Cook in writing Latooliboula.
but a little too late.   I applied, therefore, to Feenou, who, jSft*
if he was not king, was at leafl veiled with the higheft 1-J^-^j
authority here, to exert it, in order to have my things re-flored. He referred me to Earoupa ; who put me off, from time to time; and, at laft, nothing was done.
In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to unmoor, in Friday 23, order to leave the ifland, Feenou, and his prime-minifter Taipa, came along-fide in a failing canoe, and informed me, that they were fetting out for Vavaoo, an ifland, which, they faid, lies about two days fail to the Northward of Hapaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to get for me an additional fupply of hogs, and fome red-feathered caps for Omai, to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high eftecm. Feenou affured me, that he fhould be back in four or five days; and defired me not to fail till his return, when, he promifed, he would accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get fome knowledge of Vavaoo, and propofed to him to go thither with the fhips. But he feemed not to approve of the plan; and, by way of diverting me from it, told me, that there was neither harbour, nor anchorage about it. I, therefore, confented to wait, in my prefent flation, for his return ; and he immediately fet out.
The next day, our attention was, for fome time, taken Saturday34, up with a report, induftrioufly fpread about by fome of the natives, that a fhip, like ours, had arrived at Annamooka fince we left it; and was now at anchor there. The propagators of the report were plcafed to add, that Toobou, the Chief of that iiland, was haftening thither to receive thefe new-comers ; and as we knew that he had actually left us, we were the more ready to believe there might be
i4* 1 2 fome
Ma7/ fome foundation for the flory of this unexpected arrival, x—-v——' However, to gain fome farther information, I went on more with Omai, in quefl of the man who, it was faid, had brought the firfl account of this event from Annamooka. Wc found him at the houfe of Earoupa; where Omai put fuch queflions to him as I thought neceffary; and the an-fwers he gave, were fo clear and fatisfactory, that I had not a doubt remaining. But, juff about this time, a Chief, of fome note, whom we well knew, arrived from Annamooka; and declared, that no fhip was, at that ifland, nor had been, fince our leaving it. The propagator of the report, finding himfelf detected in a falfehood, inflantly withdrew, and we faw no more of him. What end the invention of this tale could anfwer, was not eafy to conjecture; unlefs we fuppofe it to have been artfully contrived, to get us removed from the one ifland to the other.
3anday 2S. hi my walk, on the 25th, I happened to flep into a houfe, where a woman was drefling the eyes of a young child, who feemed blind j the eyes being much inflamed, and a thin film fprcad over them. The inflruments fhe ufed were two flender wooden probes, with which fhe had brufhed the eyes fo as to make them bleed. It feems worth mentioning, that the natives of thefe iflands mould attempt an operation of this fort; though I entered the houfe too late, to defcrihe exactly how this female oculifl employed the wretched tools fhe had to work with.
I was fortunate enough to fee a different operation going on in the fame houfe, of which I can give a tolerable account. I found there another woman fhaving a child's head, with a fhark's tooth, fluck into the end of a piece of flick.   I obferved, that flic firft wet the hair with a rag
r dipped
dipped in water, applying her inflrument to that part which fhe had previoully foaked. The operation feemed to give no pain to the child; although the hair was taken off as clofe as if one of our razors had been employed- Encouraged by what I now faw, I, foon after, tried one of thefe Angular inflruments upon myfclf, and found it to be an excellent fuccedaneum. However, the men of thefe iflands have re-courfe to another contrivance when they fhave their beards. The operation is performed with two fhells; one of which they place under a fmall part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they fcrape that part off. In this manner they are able to fhave very clofe. The procefs is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongfl them who feem to profefs this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to fee our failors go afhore to have their beards fcraped off, after the fafhion of Hapaee, as it was to fee their Chiefs come on board to be fhave d by our barbers.
Finding that little or nothing, of the produce of the iiland was now brought to the fhips, I refolved to change our flation, and to wait Feenou's return from Vavaoo, in fome other convenient anchoring-placc, where refi eflimcnts might flill be met with. Accordingly, in the forenoon of the 26th, Monday *& we got under fail, and flood to the Southward along the reef of the ifland; having fourteen and thirteen fathoms water, with a fandy bottom. However, we met with feveral detached fhoals. Some of them were difcovered by breakers; fome, by the water upon them appearing difcoloured 5 and others, by the lead. At half pafl two in the afternoon, having already paffed feveral of thefe fhoals, and feeing more of them before us, I hauled into a bay, that lies between the South end of Lefooga, and the North end of Hoo-
laiva*
1777-    larva, and there anchored in feventeen fathoms water: the
May.
Myy bottom a coral-fand; the point of Lefooga bearing South Eaft by Eaft, a mile and a half diftant. The Difcovery did not get to an anchor till funfet. She had touched upon one of the fhoals ; but backed off again, without receiving any damage.
As foon as we had anchored, I fent Mr. Bligh to found the bay where we were now ftationed j and myfelf, accompanied by Mr. Gore, landed on the Southern part of Lefooga, to examine the country, and to look for frefh water. Not that we now wanted a fupply of this article, having filled all the cafks at our late flation; but I had been told, that this part of the ifland could afford us fome, preferable to any we had got at the former watering-place. This will not be the only time I fhall have occafion to remark, that thefe people do not know what good water is. We were conducted to two wells; but the water in both of them proved to be execrable ; and the natives, our guides, affured us that they had none better.
Near the South end of the ifland, and on the Weft fide, we met with an artificial mount. From the fize of fome trees that were growing upon it, and from other appearances, 1 guefled that it had been raifed in remote times. I judged it to be about forty feet high ; and the diameter of its fummit meafured fifty feet. At the bottom of this mount, flood a ftone, which muft have been hewn out of coral rock. It was four feet broad, two and a half thick, and fourteen high; and we were told by the natives prefent, that not above half its length appeared above ground. They called it Tangata Arekee *; and faid, that it had been fet up, and the
* Tangata, in their language, is man; Arekee, king.
mount
mount raifed, by fome of their forefathers, in memory of gjj?* one of their kings ; but how long fince, they could not tell.  1-i—9
Night coming on, Mr. Gore and I returned on board ; and, at the fame time, Mr. Bligh got back from founding the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms water; the bottom, for the moft part, fand, but not without fome coral rocks. The place where we now anchored is much better fheltered than that which we had lately come from ; but between the two is another anchoring ftation, much better than either. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are divided from each other by a reef of coral rocks, which is dry at low water; fo that one may walk, at that time, from the one to the other, without wetting a foot. Some of our Gentlemen, who landed in the latter iiland, did not find the leaft mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it; except a fingle hut, the refidence of a man employed to catch fifh and turtle. It is rather extraordinary, that it fhould be in this deferted ftate, communicating fo immediately with Lefooga, which is fo perfectly cultivated. For, though the foil is quite fandy, all the trees and plants found, in a natural ftate, on the neighbouring iflands, are produced here with the greatefl: vigour. The Eaft fide of it has a reef like Lefooga; and the Weft fide has a bending, at the North part, where there feems to be good anchorage. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount, like that at the adjoining ifland, has been raifed upon it, as high as fome of the fur-rounding trees.
At day-break, next morning, I made the fignal to weigh ; Tuefd.iy 27, and, as I intended to attempt a paffage to Annamooka, in my way to Tongataboo, by the South Weft, amongft the intervening iflands, I fent the Mafter in a boat to found before the fhips.   But before we could get under
J777- fail, the wind became unfettled ; which made it un-i—■ „ ,* / fafe to attempt a paffage this way, till we were better acquainted with it. I, therefore, lay fall, and made the fignal for the Mafler to return; and afterward fent him and the Mailer of the Difcovery, each in a boat, with inflructions to examine the channels, as far as they could, allowing themfelves time to get back to the mips before the clofe of the day.
About noon, a large failing canoe came under our flern, in which was a perfon named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both ; who, as the natives then on board told us, was King of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring iflands that we had feen or heard of. It was a matter of furprize to me, to have a flranger introduced under this character, which I had fo much reafon to believe really belonged to another. But they perfifled in their account of the fupreme dignity of this new vifiter; and now, for the firfl time, they owned to me, that Feenou was not the King, but only a fubordinate Chief, though of great power; as he was often fent from Tongataboo to the other illands, on warlike expeditions, or to decide differences. It being my intereft, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, without making inquiry into the validity of their af-fumcd titles, I invited Poulaho on board as I underflood he was very defirous to come. He could not be an unwelcome guefl; for he brought with him, as a prefent to me, two good fat hogs; though not fo fat as himfelf. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the mofl eminent man in that refpect, we had feen ; for, though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almofl fhapelefs with corpulence. He feemed to be about forty years of age, had flraight hair, and his features differed a § good
good deal from thofe of the bulk of his people. I found him to be a fedate, fenfible man. He viewed the fhip, and the feveral new objects, with uncommon attention; and afked many pertinent queflions; one of which was, What could induce us to vifit thefe iflands ? After he had fatisfied his curiofity in looking at the cattle, and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I defired him to walk down into the cabin. To this, fome of his attendants objected, faying, that, if he were to accept of that invitation, it muff happen, that people would walk over his head; which could not be permitted. I directed my interpreter Omai, to tell them, that I would obviate their objection, by giving orders, that no one fhould prefume to walk upon that part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would have fatisfied them, was far from appearing ; but the Chief himfelf, lefs fcrupulous, in this refpect, than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down without any flipulation. He now appeared to be as folicitous himfelf, as his people were, to convince us that he was king, and not Feenou, who had paffed with us as fuch. For he foon perceived, that we had fome doubts about it; which doubts Omai was not very defirous of removing. The clofefl connection had been formed between him and Feenou, in teftimony of which, they had exchanged names; and, therefore, he was not a little chagrined, that another perfon now put in his claim to the honours which his friend had hitherto enjoyed.
Poulaho fat down with us to dinner; but he cat little, and drank lefs. When we rofe from the table, he defired me to accompany him afhore. Omai was afked to be of the party; but he was too faithfully attached to Feenou, to fhew any attention to his competitor; and, therefore, excufed him-
Vol. I. M m felf.
fclf. I attended the Chief in my own boat, having firfl made prefents to him, of fuch articles as, I could obferve, he valued much, and were even beyond his expectation to receive. I was not difappointed in my view of thus fecur-ing his friendfhip; for the moment the boat reached the beach, and, before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and delivered to my people to be conveyed on board. He was then carried out of the boat, by fome of his own people, upon a board refembling a hand-barrow, and went and feated himfelf in a fmall houfe near the fhore ; which feemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his fide; and his attendants, who were not numerous, feated themfelves in a femi-circle before us, on the outfide of the houfe. Behind the Chief, or rather on one fide, fat an old woman, with a fort of fan in her hand, whofe office it was to prevent his being peftered with the flies.
The feveral articles which his people had got, by trading on board the fhips, were now difplayed before him. He looked over them all, with attention, inquired what they had given in exchange, and feemed pleafed with the bargains they had made. At length, he ordered every thing to be reftored to the refpective owners, except a glafs bowl, with which he was fo much pleafed, that he rcferved it for himfelf. The perfons who brought thefe things to him, firfl fquatted themfelves down before him, then they depo-fited their feveral purchafes, and immediately rofe up and retired. The fame refpectful ceremony was obferved in taking them away; and not one of them prefumed to fpcak to him Handing. I flayed till feveral of his attendants left him, firfl paying him obeifance, by bowing the head down to the fole of his foot, and touching or tapping the fame,, £ with
with the upper and under fide of the fingers of both hands. Others, who were not in the circle, came, as it feemed, on lJ^w purpofe, and paid him this mark of refpect, and then retired, without fpeaking a word. I was quite charmed with the decorum that was obferved. 1 had, no where, feen the like, not even amongft more civilized nations.
I found the mafter returned from his expedition, when I got on board. He informed me, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was anchorage, and a palfage for the fhips; but that, toward the South and South Eaft, he faw a number of fmall ifles, fhoals, and breakers. Judging, from this report, that my attempting a paffage that way would be attended with fome rifk, I now dropped all thoughts of it; thinking it better to return toward Annamooka by the fame route, which we had fo lately experienced to be a fafe one.
Having come to this refolution, I fhould have failed next wednef. 2$< morning, if the wind had not been too far Southerly, and, at the fame time, very unfettled.   Poulaho, the king, as I fhall now call him, came on board betimes ; and brought, as a prefent to me, one of their caps, made, or, at leaft, covered, with red feathers.   Thefe caps were much fought after by us; for we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite.  But, though very large prices were offered, not one was ever brought for fale; which fhewed, that they were no lefs valuable in the eftimation of the people here; nor was there a perfon in either fhip, that could make himfelf the proprietor of one, except myfelf, Captain Clerke, and Omai. Thefe caps, or rather bonnets, are compofed of the tail feathers of the Tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parro-quets wrought upon them, or jointly with them.   They are
M m 2 made
^77- made fo as to tie upon the forehead without any crown, and v—-v——' have the form of a femicircle, whofe radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But a drawing which Mr. Webber has made of Poulaho, dreffed in one of thefe bonnets, will convey the befi idea of them. The Chief flayed on board till the evening, when he left us \ but his brother, whofe name was alfo Euttafaihe, and one or two, or more, of his attendants, continued in the fhip all night.
Thurfday2Q. At day-break, the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze, at Eafl North Eafl, and flood to the Weftward, with a view to return to Annamooka, by the track we had already experienced. We were followed by feveral failing canoes, in one of which was the king. As foon as he got on board the Refolution, he inquired for his brother, and the others who had remained with us all night. It now appeared, that they had flayed without his leave ; for he gave them, in a very few words, fuch a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes; and yet they were men not lefs than thirty years of age. He was, however, foon reconciled to their making a longer flay; for, on quitting us, he left Ins brother, and five of his attendants, on board." We had alfo the company of a Chief, juft then arrived from Tongataboo, whofe name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived, he fent his canoe away, and declared, that he and five more, who came with him, would ileep on board; fo that I had now my cabin filled with vifiters. This, indeed, was fome inconvenience; but I bore with it more willingly, as they brought plenty of provifions with them, as prefents to me; for which they always had fuitable returns.
About
About one o'clock in the afternoon, the Eafterly wind was ^77-
May.
fucceeded by a frefh breeze at South South Eaft. Our courfe, '-1—J
now being South South Weft, or more Southerly, we were obliged to ply to windward, and did but juft fetch the North Side of Footooha by eight o'clock, where we fpent the night, making fhort boards.
The next morning, we plyed up to Lofanga, where, according to the information of our friends, there was anchorage. It was one o'clock, in the afternoon, before we got foundings, under the lee or North Weft fide, in forty fathoms water, near half a mile from the fhore; but the bank was fteep, and the bottom rocky, and a chain of breakers lay to leeward. All thefe circumftances being againft us, I ftretched away for Kotoo, with the expectation of finding better anchoring ground under that ifland. But fo much time had been fpent in plying up to Lofanga, that it was dark before we reached the other j and, finding no place to anchor in, the night was fpent as the preceding one.
At day-break, on the 31ft, I flood for the channel which Saturday 3u is between Kotoo, and the reef of rocks that lie to the , Weftward of it; but, on drawing near, I found the wind too fcant to lead us through. I, therefore, bore up on the outfide of the reef, and ftretched to the South Weft, till near noon, when, perceiving that we made no progrefs to windward, and being apprchenfive of lofing the iflands, with fo many of the natives on board, I tacked and flood back, intending to wait till fome more favourable opportunity. We did but juft fetch in with Footooha, between which and Kotoo we fpent the night, under reefed topfails and forefail. The wind blew frefh, and by fqualls, with rain y and we
were
were not without apprehenfions of danger. 1 kept the deck till midnight, when I left it to the Matter, with fuch directions as, I thought, would keep the iliips clear of the fhoals and rocks, that lay round us. But, after making a trip to the North, and Handing back again to the South, our fhip, by a fmall fhift of the wind, fetched farther to the windward than was expected. By this means fhe was very near running full upon a low fandy ifle, called Pootoo Pootooa, furrounded with breakers. It happened, very fortunately, that the people had juft been ordered upon the deck, to put the fhip about, and the moft of them were at their ftations ; fo that the neceffary movements were not only executed with judgment, but alfo with alertnefs; and this alone faved us from deftruction. The Difcovery being aftern, was out of danger. Such hazardous fituations are the unavoidable companions of the man, who goes upon a voyage of difcovery.
This circumftance frightened our paffengers fo much, that they expreffed a ftrong defire to get afhore. Accordingly, as foon as day-light returned, I hoifted out a boat, and ordered the Officer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to found along the reef that fpits off from that ifland, for anchorage. For I was full as much tired as they could be, with beating about amongft the furrounding iiles and fhoals, and determined to get to an anchor, fome-where or other, if poflible. While the boat was abfent, we attempted to turn the fhips through the channel, between the fandy ifle and the reef of Kotoo, in expectation of finding a moderate depth of water behind them to anchor in. But, meeting with a tide or current againft us, we were obliged to defift, and anchor in fifty fathoms water, with the fandy ifle bearing Eaft by North, one mile diftant.
THE   PACIFIC.OCEAN. 271
We lay here till the 4th. While in this flation we lm* were, feveral times, vifited by the king, by Tooboueitoa, u Ju°I', j\ and by people from the neighbouring iflands, who came off to trade with us, though the wind blew very frefh moft of the time. The matter, was now fent to found the channels between the iflands that lie to the Eaftward; and I landed on Kotoo, to examine it, in the forenoon of the 2d.
Monday 2,
This ifland is fcarcely acceffible by boats, on account of coral reefs that furround it. It is not more than a mile and half, or two miles, long; and not fo broad. The North Weft end of it is low, like the iflands of Hapaee ; but it rifes fuddenly in the middle, and terminates in reddifh clayey cliffs, at the South Eaft end, about thirty feet high. The foil, in that quarter, is of the fame fort as in the cliffs; but, in the other parts, it is a loofe, black mould. It produces the fame fruits and roots which we found at the other iflands; is tolerably cultivated, but thinly inhabited. While I was walking all over it, our people were employed in cutting fome grafs for the cattle; and we planted fome melon feeds, with which the natives feemed much pleafed, and inclofed them with branches. On our return to the boat, we paffed by two or three ponds of dirty water, which was more or lefs brackifh in each of them ; and faw one of their burying-places, which was much neater than thofe that were met with at Hapaee.
On the 4th, at feven in the morning, we weighed; and, Wednef.4. with a frefh gale at Eaft South Eaft, flood away for Annamooka, where we anchored, next morning, nearly in the Thtwfday 5; lame flation which we had fo lately occupied.
I went
I went on fliore foon after, and found the inhabitants very bufy in their plantations, digging up yams to bring to market and, in the courfe of the day, about two hundred of them had aflembled on the beach, and traded with as much cagernefs, as during our late vifit. Their Hock appeared to have been recruited much, though we had returned fo foon ; but, inflead of bread-fruit, which was the only article we could purchafe on our firfl arrival, nothing was to be feen now but yams, and a few plantains. This fliews the quick fucceflion of the feafons, at leafl of the different vegetables produced here, at the feveral times of the year. It appeared alfo that they had been very bufy, while we were abfent, in cultivating; for we now faw feveral large plantain fields, in places which we had, fo lately, feen lying wafle. The yams were now in the greatefl perfection; and we procured a good quantity, in exchanges for pieces of iron.
Thefe people, in the abfence of Toobou, whom we left behind us at Kotoo, with Poulaho and the other Chiefs, feemed to be under little fubordination. For we could not perceive, this day, that one man affumed more authority than another. Before I returned on board, I vifited the feveral places where I had fown melon feeds, and had the mortification to find, that moft of them were deflroycd by a fmall ant but fome pine-apple plants, which I had alfo left, were in a thriving flate.
About noon, next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us, that feveral canoes, laden with hogs, and other provifions, which had failed with him from that ifland, had been loft, owing to the late blowing weather j and that every
body
body on board them had perifhed.   This riielancholy tale '777
did not feem to affect any of his countrymen who heard it; ^__»—-'
and, as to ourfelves, we were, by this time, too well acquainted with his character* to give much credit to fuch a ftory.   The truth, probably, was, that he had not been able to procure at Vavaoo the fupplies which he expected ; or, if he got any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way back, and where he could not but receive intelligence that Poulaho had been with us; who, therefore, he knew, would, as his fuperior, have all the merit and reward of procuring them, though he had not any fliare of the trouble.   The invention of this lofs at fea was, however, well imagined.   For there had lately been very blowing weather; in fo much, that the King, and other Chiefs, who had followed us from Hapaee to Kotoo, had been left there, not caring to venture to fea when we did; but defired I might wait for them at Annamooka, which was the reafon of my anchoring there, this fecond time, and of my not proceeding directly to Tongataboo.
The following morning, Poulaho, and the other Chiefs Saturday who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened, at this time, to be afhore in company with Feenou ; who now feemed to be fcnfiblc of the impropriety of his conduct, in afluming a character that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of Tongataboo, and the other iiles; but affected to infill much on it, which, no doubt, was with a view to make amends for his former prefumption. I left him, to viiit this greater man, whom I found fitting with a few people before him. But, every onehaflcning to pay court to him, the circle increafed pretty fall. I was very delirous of obferving Fecnou's behaviour on this occafion ; and had the mofl convincing
Vor-. I. N ii proof
June' Fr0°f °f his Superiority; for he placed himfelf amongft the *—» reft that fat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majefty. He feemed, at firft, rather abafhed ; as fome of us were prefent who had been ufed to fee him act a different part; but he foon recovered himfelf. Some little converfation paffed between thefe two Chiefs, which none of us under-ftood ; nor were we fatisfied with O nai's interpretation of it. We were, however, by this time, fufficiently undeceived as to Feenou's rank. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner; but only the latter fat at table. Feenou, having made his obeifanee, in the ufual way, fa-luting his fovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin *. The king had before told us, that this would happen ; and it now appeared, that Feenou could not even eat nor drink in his royal prefence.
Simday 8. At eight o'clock, next morning, we weighed and fleered for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at North Eaft. About fourteen or fifteen failing veflels, belonging to the natives, fet out with us; but every one of them outrun the fhips confiderably. Feenou was to have taken his pafTage in the Refolution; but preferred his own canoe; and put two men on
* Marks of profound refpedf, very fimilar to thofe paid by natives of the Friendly Iflands to their fovereign, are alfo paid to the principal Chiefs,, or Tamoles of the Caroline Iflands, as appears from father Cantova's account here tranferibed. " Lorf-*' qu'un Tamole donne audience, il paroit affis fur une table elevee : les peuples s'in-«* clinent devant lui jufqu'a terre ^ &' du plus loin qu'ils arrivent, ils marchent Ic *« corps tout courbe, h la tete prefqu'entre les genoux, jufqu'a ce qu'ils foient au-" pres de fa pcrfonne; alors ils s'afleyent a. plate terre; &, les yeux baiffes, ils re-" coivent fes ordres avec le plus profond refpecf. Quand le Tamole les congedie, ils •* fe retirent, en fe courbant de la meme maniere que quand ils font venus, & ne fe ** relevent que lorfqu'ils font hors de fa prefence. Ses paroles font autant d'oracles *l qu'on revere; on rend a fes ordres une obeifTance aveugle ■> enfin, on baife les ** mains & les pieds, quand on lui demande quelque grace."
Leltres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 312, 313.
board*
THE  PACIFIC OCEAN, board, to conduct us to the bell anchorage.  We fleered '?77-
° June.
South by Wefl by compafs. \—
At five in the afternoon we faw two fmall iflands, bearing Wefl, about four leagues diflant. Our pilots called the one Hoonga Hapaee, and the other Hoonga Tonga. They lie in the latitude of 20* 36'; and ten or eleven leagues from the Wefl point of Annamooka, in the direction of South, 46* Wefl. According to the account of the iflanders on board, only five men refide upon Hoonga Hapaee; and Hoonga Tonga is uninhabited; but both of them abound with fea-fowl.
We continued the fame courfe till two o'clock next morn- Monday 9$ ing, when, feeing fome lights ahead, and not knowing whether they were on fhore, or on board the canoes, we hauled the wind, and made a fhort trip, each way, till day-break. We then relumed our courfe to the South by Wefl j and, prefently after, faw feveral fmall iflands before us, and Eooa and Tongataboo beyond them. We had, at this time, twenty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of broken coral and land. The depth gradually decreafed as we drew near the ifles above mentioned, which lie ranged along the North Eafl fide of Tongataboo. By the direction of our pilots we fleered for the middle of it, and for the widefl fpace between the fmall iiles which we were to pafs; having our boats ahead, employed in founding. We were, infenfibly, drawn upon a large fiat, upon which lay innumerable coral rocks, of different depths, below the furface of the water. Notwithflanding all our care and attention to keep the fhip clear of them, we could not prevent her from flriking on one of thefe rocks. Nor did the Difcovery, though behind us, efcape any better. Fortunately, neither of the fhips fluck
N n 2 faff,
1777- fait, nor received any damage. We could not get back with-out increafing the danger, as wc had come in almoft before the wind. Nor could we cad anchor, but with the certainty of having our cables inftantly cut in two by the rocks. We had no other refource but to proceed. To this, indeed, we were encouraged, not only by being told, but by feeing, that there was deeper water between us and the more. However, that we might be better informed, the moment we found a fpot where we could drop the anchor, clear of rocks, we came to; and fent the Mailers, with the boats, to found.
Soon after we had anchored, which was about noon, feveral of the inhabitants of Tongataboo came off in their canoes to the fhips. Thefe, as well as our pilots, aflured us, that we mould find deep water farther in, and a bottom free from rocks. They were not miftaken ; for, about four o'clock, the boats made the fignal for having found good anchorage. Upon this we weighed, and flood in till dark, and then anchored in nine fathoms, having a fine, clear, fandy bottom.
During the night wc had fome fhowers of rain; but toward the morning, the wind fhifted to the South, and South Tucfday to. Eaft, and brought on fair weather.   At day-break we weighed, and, working in to the fhore, met with no obftrutf:ions3 but fuch as were viable, and eafdy avoided.
While we were plying up to the harbour, to which the natives directed us, the king kept failing round us in his canoe. There were, at the fame time, a great many fmall canoes about the fhips. Two of thefe, which could not get out of the way of his royal veffel, he run quite over, with as little concern, as if they had been bits of
wood,
Wasp* .
fcj' Hi Ml \s • •■• <
...... ...... .,    -v        •    *'■'".'I'^'.ji 3
AM
,v /, E T r M
Ton catvhoo Harhoir.
/yy^. ///
a JVenftrt* a i. 1> Station it>. Jafy-
# OMernrtorj I'mni
1 T-trnji- |S4& t6
IixiIiki'uIm
Lj-'mikiivo.
„A.tu
*7)
\ .nil. tn.il..in- '
V:iill<-1..;
£&.\1.lll<:l.o;lll
Mil*s
The fffcfoia /JZ/nn;,/ fa .//"■
wood,   Amongfl: many others who came on board the Re- j?77-
folution, was Otago *, who had been fo ufeful to me whent '-*~"
I vifited Tongataboo during my laft voyage; and one Too-bou, who, at that time, had attached himfelf to Captain Furneaux. Each of them brought a hog, and fome yams, as a teftimony of his friendfhip ; and I was not wanting, on my part, in making a fuitable return.
At length, about two in the afternoon, we arrived at our intended flation. It was a very fnug place, formed by the more of Tongataboo on the South Eaft, and two fmall iflands on the Eaft and North Eaft. Here we anchored in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of oozy fand; diftant from the fhore one-third of a mile.
* See a print of him in Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol, i. p. 197.
CHAP.
chap. vii.
Friendly Reception at 'Tongataboo.—Manner of diflribut-ing a baked Hog and Kava to Poulaho s Attendants.— The ObfervatoryWc. ere tied.—The Village where the Chiefs refde, and the adjoining Coutttry^ defcribed.—* Interviews with Mareewagee, and Toobou, a?id the Kings Son.—A grand Haiva, or Entertainment of Songs and Dances, given by Mareewagee.— Exhibition of Fireworks.—Manner of TVrefling and Boxing.—Diflribu-tion of the Cattle.—Thefts committed by the Natives*— Poulaho, and the other Chiefs, confined on that Account. —Poulaho s Prefent) and Haiva.
,777. POON after we had anchored, having firft dined, I ]"V, O landed, accompanied by Omai, and fome of thq Of-fday 10. £CCT5 we found the king waiting for us upon the beach. He, immediately, conducted us to a fmall neat houfe, fituated a little within the fkirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it. This houfe, he told me, was at my fervice, during our ftay at the ifland; and a better fituation we could not wiili for.
We had not been long in the houfe, before a pretty large circle of the natives were affembled before us, and feated upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought, and laid down before the king, he ordered it to be fplit into pieces, and diftributed to feveral people of both fexes, who began
the
the operation of chewing it; and a bowl of their favourite liquor was foon prepared. In the mean time, a baked hog, and two bafkets of baked yams, were produced, and afterward divided into ten portions. Thefe portions were then given to certain people prefent; but how many were to fhare in each, I could not tell. One of them, I obferved,. was bellowed upon the king's brother ; and one remained undifpofed of, which, I judged, was for the king himfelf, as it was a choice bit. The liquor was next ferved out; but Poulaho feemed to give no directions about it. The firft: cup was brought to him, which he ordered to be given to one who fat near him. The fecond was alfo brought to him, and this he kept. The third was given to me ; but their manner of brewing having quenched my thirfl, it became Omai's property. The reft of the liquor was diftri-buted to different people, by direction of the man who had the management of it. One of the cups being carried to the king's brother, he retired with this, and with his mefs of victuals. Some others alfo quitted the circle with their portions; and the reafon was, they could neither eat nor drink in the royal prefence; but there were others prefent, of a much inferior rank, of both fexes, who did both. Soon after, moft of them wichdrew, carrying with them what they had not eat of their fhare of the feaft.
I obferved, that not a fourth part of the company had tafted either the victuals or the drink ; thofe who partook of the former, I fuppofed to be of the king's houfehold. The fervants, who diftributed the baked meat, and the kava, always delivered it out of their hand fitting, not only to the king, but to every other perfon. It is worthy of remark, though this was the firft time of our landing, and a great many people were prefent who had never feen us before, 8. yet
1777*     yet no one was troublefome; but the greatefl good order ul!!X—i was preferved, throughout the whole afTembly.
Before I returned on board, I went in fearch of a watering place, and was conducted to fome ponds, or rather holes, containing frefh water, as they were pleafed to call it. The contents of one of thefe, indeed, were tolerable; but it was at fome diflance inland, and the fupply to be got from it was very inconfiderable.   Being informed, that the little ifland of Pangimodoo, near which the fhips lay, could better furnifh this neceffary article, I went over to it, next Wednef. i«. morning, and was fo fortunate as to find there a fmall pool, that had rather frefher water, than any we had met with amongfl thefe iflands.   The pool being very dirty, I ordered it to be cleaned; and here it was that wc watered the fhips.
As 1 intended to make fome flay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent, in the forenoon, juft by the houfe which Poulaho had afligncd for our ufe.   The horfes, cattle, and fheep, were afterward landed, and a party of marines, with their Officer, flationed there as a guard.   The obfervatory was then fet up, at a fmall diftance from the other tent; and Mr. King refided on fhore, to attend the obfervations, and to fupcrintend the feveral operations neceffary to be conducted there.   For the fails were carried thither, to be repaired ; a party was employed in cutting wood for fuel, and plank for the ufe of the fhips ; and the gunners of both, were ordered to remain upon the fpot, to conduct the traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part of the iiland, with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce.   In a fhort time, our land poll was like a fair, and the fhips were fo crowded with vifuers, that we had hardly room to flir upon the decks.
Fcenou
Feenou had taken up his refidence in our neighbourhood; but he was no longer the leading man.   However, we flill u—^—' found him to be a perfon of confequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of his valuable prefcnts.   But the king was equally attentive in this refpect; for fcarcely a day paffed, without receiving from him fome confiderable donation.   We now heard, that there were other great men of the ifland, whom we had not, as yet, feen.   Otago and Toobou, in particular, mentioned a perfon named Mareewagee, who, they faid, was of the firfl confequence in the place, and held in great vene- -ration ; nay, if Omai did not mifunderfland them, fuperior even to Poulaho, to whom he was related ; but, being old, lived in retirement; and, therefore, would not vifit us. Some of the natives even hinted, that he was too great a man to confer that honour upon us.  This account exciting my curiofity, I, this day, mentioned to Poulaho, that I was very defirous of waiting upon Mareewagee ; and he readily agreed to accompany me, to the place of his refidence, the next morning.
Accordingly, we fet out, pretty early, in the pinnace; Timrfdayiz. and Captain Clerke joined me in one of his own boats. We proceeded round, that is, to the Eailward of the little ifles that form the harbour, and then, turning to the South, according to Poulaho's directions, entered a fpacious bay or inlet, up which we rowed about a league, and landed amidff a confiderable number of people, who received us with a fort of acclamation, not unlike our huzzaing. They immediately feparated, to let Poulaho pafs, who took us into a fmall inclofure, and fhifted the piece of cloth he wore, for a new piece, neatly folded, that was carried by a young man.  An old woman afFifted in drefling him, and put a
Vol. I. O o mat
mat over his cloth \ as we fuppofed, to prevent its being dirtied when he fat down. On our now afking him where Mareewagee was, to our great furprize, he faid, he had gone from the place, to the fhip, jud before we arrived. However, he defired us to walk with him to a malaee, or houfe of public refort, which flood about half a mile up the country. But when we came to a large area before it, lie hit down in the path, and defired us to walk up to the houfe. We did lb, and feated ourfelves in front, while the crowd that followed us filled up the reft of the fpace. After fitting a little while, wc repeated our inquiries, by means of Omai, Whether we were to fee Mareewagee ? But receiving no fa th. factory information, and fufpecting that the old Chief was purpofely concealed from us, we went back to our boats, much piqued at our difappointment; and when I got on board, I found that no fuch pei fon had been there. It afterward appeared, that, in this affair, we had laboured under ionic grofs mi flakes, and that our interpreter Omai had cither been mifinformcd, or, which is more likely, had mifundcrftood what was told him about the great man, on whofe account wc had made this cxctirfion.
The place we went to was a village, moil delightfully fituated on the bank of the inlet, where all, or mofl of the principal perfons of the ifland refi.de ; each having his houfe in the midit of a fmall plantation, with leffer houfes, and offices for fervants. Thefe plantations are neatly fenced round; and, for the mod part, have only one entrance. This is by a door, fallencd, on the infide, by a prop of wood;, fo that a pei fon has to knock, before he can get admittance. Public roads, and narrow lanes, lie between each plantation ; fo that no one trefpaffeth upon another. Great part of fome of thefe mclofures is laid out in grafs-plots, and
planted
planted with fuch things as feem more for ornament than ufe. Put hardly any were without the kava plant, from which they make their favourite liquor. Every article of the vegetable produce of the ifland, abounded in others of thefe plantations; but thefe, I obferved, are not the refidence of people of the firft rank. There arc fome large houfes near the public roads, with fpacious fmooth grafs-plots before them, and uninclofed. Thefe, I was told, belonged to the king; and, probably, they arc the places where their public affcmblies are held. It was to one of thefe houfes, as I have already mentioned, that we were conducted, foon after our landing at this place.
About noon, the next day, this Mareewagee, of whom Friday 13 we had heard fo much, actually came to the neighbourhood of our poll on fhore; and, with him, a very confiderable number of people of all ranks. I was informed, that he had taken this trouble, on purpofe to give me an opportunity of waiting upon him; having, probably, heard of the difpleafure I had fhewn, on my difappointment the day before. In the afternoon, a party of us, accompanied by Feenou, landed, to pay him a vifit. We found a perfon fitting under a large tree, near the fhore, a little to the right of the tent. A piece of cloth, at leafl forty yards long, was fpread before him, round which a great number of people, of both fexes, were feated. It was natural to fuppbfe, that this was the great man ; but we were undeceived by Feenou; who informed us, that another, who fat on a piece of mat, a little way from this Chief, to the right hand, was Mareewagee, and he introduced us to him, who received us very kindly, and defired us to fit down by him. The perfon, who , fat under the tree, fronting us, was called Toobou \ and, when I have occafion to fpeak of him afterward, I fhall call
O o 2 him
\777-     him old Toobou, to diflinguifh. him from his namefake,
June. . r •
v,—Captain Furneaux's friend. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable appearance. The latter is a flendcr man, and, from his appearance, feems to be confiderably above three-fcore years of age. The former is rather corpulent, and almofl blind with a diforder of his eyes; though not fo old.
Not expecting to meet with two Chiefs, on this occafion, I had only brought on fhore a prefent for one. This I now found myfelf under a neceflity of dividing between them ; but it happened to be pretty confiderable, and both of them feemed fatisfied. After this, we entertained them, for about an hour, with the performance of two French horns, and a drum. But they feemed mofl pleafed with the firing off a piftol, which Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took my leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and, with a few cocoa-nuts, prefented to me.
Saturday i4. The next morning, old Toobou returned my vifit on board the fhip. Fie alfo vifited Captain Clerke; and if the prefent we made to him, the evening before, was fcanty, the deficiency was now made up. During this time, Mareewagee vifited our people afhore; and Mr. King fhewed to him every thing we had there. He viewed the cattle with great admiration ; and the crofs-cut faw fixed his attention for fome time.
Toward noon, Poulaho returned from the place where we had left him two days before, and brought with him his fon, a youth about twelve years of age. I had his company at dinner; but the fon, though prefent, was not allowed to fit down with him. It was very convenient to have him for my guefl. For when he was prefent, which was generally the cafe while wc flayed here, every other native was
excluded
excluded from the table; and but few of them would re- JW
June.
main in the cabin. Whereas, if, by chance, it happened, *—*— that neither he nor Feenou were on board, the inferior Chiefs would be very importunate to be of our dining party, or to be admitted into the cabin at that time ; and then we were fo crowded, that we could not fit down to a meal with any latisfadtion. The king was very foon reconciled to our manner of cookery. But flill, I believe, he dined thus frequently with me, more for the fake of what we gave him to drink, than for what we fet before him to eat. For he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as mofl men, and was as cheerful over it. He now fixed his refidence at the houfe, or Malaee, by our tent j and there he entertained our people, this evening, with a dance. To the furprife of every body, the unwieldy Poulaho endeavoured to vie with others, in that active amufement.
In the morning of the 15th, I received a meffage from Sunday i$* Old Toobou, that he wanted to fee me afhore. Accordingly Omai and I went to wait upon him. We found him, like an ancient patriarch, feated under the made of a tree, with a large piece of the cloth, made in the ifland, fpread out at full length before him; and a number of refpectably looking people fitting round it. Fie defired us to place ourfelves by him; and then he told Omai, that the cloth, together with a piece of red feathers, and about a dozen cocoa-nuts, were his prefent to me. I thanked him for the favour; and defired he would go on board with me, as I had nothing on fhore to give him in return.
Omai now left me, being fent for by Poulaho ; and, foon after, Feenou came, and acquainted me that young Fatta-faihe, Poulaho's fon, defired to fee me. I obeyed the fum-mons, and found the prince, and Omai, fitting under a
large
large canopy of the finer fort of cloth; with a piece of the coarfcr fort, fpread under them and before them, that was feventy-fix yards long, and feven and a half broad. On one fide was a large old boar; and on the other fide a heap of cocoa-nuts. A number of people were fea'ed round the cloth ; and, amongfl them, I obferved Mareewagee, and others of the firfl rank. I was defired to fit down by the prince; and then Omai informed me, that he had been inftruetcd by the king to tell me, that, as he and I were friends, he hoped that his fon might be joined in this friendfhip; and that, as a token of my confenr, I would accept of his prefent. I very readily agreed to the propofal; and, it being now dinner-time, I invited them all on board.
Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, old Toobou, three or four inferior Chiefs, and two refpe'cuble old ladies of the firfl rank, accompanied me. Mareewagee was dreffed in a new piece of cloth, on the fkirts of which were fixed fix pretty large patches of red feathers. This drefs feemed to have been made, on purpofe, for this vifit; for, as foon as he got on board, he put it off, and prefented it to me; having, I guefs, heard that it would be acceptable, on account of the feathers. Every one cf my vifiters received from me fuch prcfents, as, I had reafon to believe, they were highly fatisfied with. When dinner came upon table, not one of them would fit down, or eat a bit of any thing that was ferved up. On expreflingmy furprife at this, they were all taboo, as they faid ; which word has a very comprehenfive meaning-, but, in general, fignifies that a thing is forbidden. Why they were laid under fuch reflraints, at prefent, was not explained. Dinner being over, and, having gratified their curiofity, by fhewing to them every part of the fhip, I then conducted them afhore.
3 As
As foon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou, and I777'
' June.
fome others, inftantly flepped out.   Young Fattafaihe fol- «-1-'
lowing them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid the heir apparent the fame obeifance, and in the lame manner, that I had feen it paid to the king. And when old Toubou, and one of the old ladies, had fhewn him the fame marks of refpect, he was fuffercd to land. This ceremony being over, the old people flepped from my boat, into a canoe, that was waiting to carry them to their place of abode.
I was not forry to be prefent on this occafion, as I was thus furnifhed with the moft unequivocal proofs of the fu-preme dignity of Poulaho and his fon, over the other principal ChLfs. Indeed, by this time, 1 had acquired fome certain information about the relative fuuations of the feveral great men, whofe names have been fo often mentioned. I now knew, that Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of great property in the ifland, and feemed to be in high eftimation with the people; the former, in particular, had the very honourable appellation given to him, by every body, of Motooa Tonga-r that is to fay, Father of Tonga, or of his Country. The nature of his relationfhip to the king was alfo no longer a fecret to us; for we now undcrftood, that he was his father-in-law ; foulaho having married one of his daughters* by whom he had this fon ; fo that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather, roulaho's appearance having fatisfied us, that we had been under a miftake, in confidering Feenou as the fovereign of thefe iflands, wc had been, at firft,. much puzzled about his real rank ; but that was, by this time, afecrtained. Fcenou was one of Marcewagce's fons; and Tooboueitoa was another.
On
On my landing, I found the king, in the houfe adjoining to our tent, along with our people who refided on more. The moment I got to him, he bellowed upon me a prefent of a large hog, and a quantity of yams. About the dufk of the evening, a number of men came, and, having fat down in a round group, began to ling in concert with the mufic of bamboo drums, which were placed in the centre*. There were three long ones, and two fhort. With thefe they flruck the ground endwife, as before defcribed. There were two others, which lay on the ground, fide by fide, and one of them was fplit or fhivered; on thefe a man kept beating with two fmall flicks. They fung three fongs while I flayed; and, I was told, that, after I left them, the entertainment lafled till ten o'clock. They burnt the leaves of the wharra palm for a light; which is the only thing I ever faw them make ufe of for this purpofe.
While I was palling the day in attendance on thefe great men, Mr. Anderfon, with fome others, made an excurfton into the country, which furniflied him with the following remarks: " To the Weftward of the tent, the country is totally uncultivated for near two miles, though quite covered with trees and bullies, in a natural flate, growing with the greatell vigour. Beyond this is a pretty large plain, on which arc fome cocoa-trees, and a few fmall plantations that appear to have been lately made; and, feemingly, on ground that has never been cultivated before. Near the creek, which runs to the Weftward of the tent, the land is quite flat, and partly overflowed by the fea every
* The fame fort of evening concert is performed round the houfe of the Chief, or Tamole, at the Caroline Iflands. " hcTamo/e ne s'endort qu'au bruit d'un concert " de niufique que forme une troupe de jeunes gens, qui s'aflemblent le foir, autour de " fa maifon, & qui chantent, a leur maniere, certaines poe'fies." Lettres Edifiantes & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 314.
tide.
tide. When that retires, the furface is feen to be compofed of coral rock, with holes of yellowifh mud fcattered up and down ; and toward the edges, where it is a little firmer, arc innumerable little openings, from which iflue as many fmall crabs, of two or three different forts, which fwarm upon the fpot, as flies upon a carcafe; but are fo nimble, that, on being approached, they difappear in an inflant, and baffle even the natives to catch any of them.
At this place is a work of art, which fhews, that thefe people are capable of fome defign, and perfevcrance, when they mean to accomplifh any thing. This work begins, on one fide, as a narrow caufeway, which, becoming gradually broader, rifes, with a gentle afcent, to the height of ten feet, where it is five paces broad, and the whole length feventy four paces. Joined to this is a fort of circus, whofe diameter is thirty paces, and not above a foot or two higher than the caufeway that joins it, with fome trees planted in the middle. On the oppofite fide, another caufeway of the fame fort defcends ; but this is not above forty paces long, and is partly in ruin. The whole is built with large coral flones, with earth on the furface, which is quite overgrown with low trees and fhrubs ; and, from its decaying in feveral places, feems to be of no modern date. Whatever may have been its ufe formerly, it feems to be of none now; and all that we could learn of it from the natives was, that it belonged to Poulaho, and is called Etchee."
On the iGth, in the morning, after viuting the feveral Monday 16. works now carrying on alhorc, Mr. Gore, and I, took a walk into the country; in the courfe of which nothing remarkable appeared, but our having opportunities of feeing the whole procefs of making cloth, which is the principal
Vol. I. P p manufacture
\777-    manufacture of thefe iflands, as well as of many others in
June. J
<------this Ocean. In the narrative of my firfl Voyage *, a minute
defcription is given of this operation, as performed at Otaheite ; but the procefs, here, differing in fome particulars, it may be worth while to give the following account of it:
The manufacturers, who are females, take the flender llalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which they cultivate for that purpofe;  and which feldom grows more than fix or feven feet in height, and about four fingers in thicknefs.   From thefe they flrip the bark, and fcrape off the outer rind with a mufcle-fhell.   The bark is then rolled up to take off the convexity which it had round the flalk, and macerated in water for fome time (they fay, a night). After this, it is laid acrofs the trunk of a fmall tree fquared, and beaten with a fquarc wooden inflrument, about a foot long, full of coarfe grooves on all fides; but, fometimes, with one that is plain.   According to the fize of the bark, a piece is foon produced ; but the operation is often repeated by another hand, or it is folded feveral times, and beat longer, which feems rather intended to clofe than to divide its texture.   When this is fufficiently effected, it is fpread out to dry; the pieces being from four to fix, or more, feet in length, and half as broad.   They are then given to another perfon, who joins the pieces, by fmearing part of them over with the vifcous juice of a berry, called tooot which ferves as a glue.   Flaving been thus lengthened, they are laid over a large piece of wood, with a kind of flamp, made of a fibrous fubflancc pretty clofe ly interwoven, placed beneath.   They then take a bit of cloth, and dip it in a juice.
* Hawkefworth's Collection of Voyage9, Vol. ii. p. 210.
3 expreffed
cxprclTcd from the bark of a tree, called kokka, which they
* June.
rub brifkly upon the piece that is making. This, at once, ^——* leaves a dull brown colour, and a dry glofs upon its furface j the ftamp, at the fame time, making a flight irnpref-fion, that anfwers ho other purpofe that I could fee, but to make the feveral pieces, that arc glued together, flick a little more firmly. In this manner they proceed, joining and flaming by degrees, till they produce a piece of cloth, of fuch length and breadth as they want; generally leaving a border, of a foot broad, at the fides, and longer at the ends, unflained. Throughout the whole, if any parts of the Original pieces are too thin, or have holes, which is often the cafe, they glue fparc bits upon them, till they become of an equal thicknefs. When they want to produce a black colour, they mix the foot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe, with the juice of the kokka, in different quantities, according to the propofed depth of the tinge. They fay, that the black fort of cloth, which is commonly moll glazed, makes a cold drefs, but the other a warm one; and, to obtain flrcngth in both, they are always careful to join the fmall pieces lengthwife, which makes it impoflible to tear the cloth in any direction but one.
On our return from the country, we met with Feenou, and took him, and another young Chief, on board to dinner. When our fare was fet upon the table, neither of them would eat a bit; faying, that they were taboo avy. But, after enquiring how the victuals had been dreffed, having found that no avy (water) had been ufed in cooking a pig and fome yams, they both fat down, and made a very hearty meal; and, on being affured that there was no water in the wine, they drank of it alfo. From this wc conjectured, that, on fome account or another, they were, at
P p % this
1777-     this time, forbidden to ufe water ; or, which was more pro-
June.
v—-* bable, they did not like the water we made ufe of, it being taken up out of one of their bathing-places. This was not the only time of our meeting with people that were taboo avy; but, for what reafon, we never could tell with any degree of certainty.
Tuefday 17. Next day, the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagee, for giving a grand Haiva, or entertainment; to which we were all invited. For this purpofe a large fpace had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this Chief, near our poll, as an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning, great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole, about fix feet long, upon his fhoulderj and at each end. of every pole, a yam was fufpended. Thefe yams and poles were depofited on each fide of the area, fo as to form two large heaps, decorated with different forts of fmall fifli, and piled up to the greatefl advantage. They were Marecwagee's prefent to Captain Clerke and me ; and it was hard to fay, whether the wood for fuel, or the yams for food, were of mofl value to us. As for the fifli, they might ferve to pleafe the fight, but were very offenfive to the fmeli; part of them having been kept two or three days, to be prefented to us on this* occafion.
Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which they call mai. The mufic * confided, at firft, of feventy men as a chorus, who fat down ; and amidft them were placed three inflruments, which we called drums, though very unlike them. They are large cylindiical pieces of wood, or trunks of
* Mr. Anderfon's defcription of the entertainments of this day being much fuller than Captain Cook's, it has been adopted as on a former occafion,
trees,
trees, from three to four feet long, fome twice as thick as an ordinary fized man, and fome fmaller, hollowed entirely out, but clofe at both ends, and open only by a chink, about three inches broad, running almoft the whole length of the drums; by which opening, the reft of the wood is certainly hollowed, though the operation muft be difficult. This in-ftrument is called naffa; and, with the chink turned toward them, they fit and beat ftrongly upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of hard wood, about a foot long, and as thick as the wrift; by which means they produce a rude, though loud and powerful found. They vary the ftrength and rate of their beating, at different parts of the dance ; and alfo change the tones, by beating in the middle, or near the end, of their drum.
The firft dance confifted of four ranks, of twenty-four men each, holding in their hands a little, thin, light, wooden inftrument, above two feet long, and, in fhaper not unlike a fmall oblong paddle. With thefe, which are called pagge, they made a great many different motions; fuch. as pointing them toward the ground on one fide, at the fame time inclining their bodies that way, from which they were fhifted to the oppofite fide in the fame manner; then palling them quickly from one hand to the other, and twirling them about very dextroufly; with a variety of other manoeuvres, ail which were accompanied by correfponding attitudes of the body. Their motions were, at firft, flow, but quickened as the drums beat falter; and they recited fen-tenccs, in a mufical tone, the whole time, which were an-fwered by the chorus ; but at the end of a-fhort fpace they all joined, and fmillied with a fhout.
After ceafing about two or three minutes, they began as before, and continued, with fhort intervals, above a quarter
of
\777>     of an hour ; when the rear rank dividing, miffed themfelves
June- 0
v—j very ilowly round each end, and, meeting in the front, formed the firfl rank; the whole number continuing to recite the fentences as before. The other ranks did the fame fucceflively, till that which, at firfl, was the front, became the rear ; and the evolution continued, in the fame manner, till the laft rank regained its firfl fituation. They then began a much quicker dance (though flow at firfl), and fung for about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached, forming a fort of circular figure, which finifhed the dance ; the drums being removed, and the chorus going off the field at the fame time.
The fecond dance had only two drums, with forty men for a chorus ; and the dancers, or rather actors, confifted of two ranks, the foremofl having feventeen, and the other fifteen perfons. Fcenou was at their head, or in the middle of the front rank, which is the principal place in thefe cafes. They danced and recited fentences, with fome very fhort intervals, for about half an hour, fometimes quickly, fometimes more flowly, but with fuch a degree of exaetnefs, as if all the motions were made by one man, which did them great credit. Near the clofe, the back rank divided, came round, and took the place of the front, which again re-fumed its fituation, as in the firfl dance ; and when they finifhed, the drums and chorus, as before, went off.
Three drums (which, at leafl, took two, and fometimes three men to carry them) were now brought in ; and fe-venty men fat down as a chorus to the third dance. This confided of two ranks, of fixtecn perfons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a
fon:
fort of garment covered with red feathers. Thefe danced, fung, and twirled the pagge, as before ; but, in general, much quicker, and performed fo well, that they had the conffant applaufes of the fpectators. A motion that met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the face aiide, as if afhameu, and the pagge before it. The back rank clofed before the front one, and that again re-fumed its place, as in the two former dances; but then they began again, formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the greatefl part of the ground clear. At that inilant, two men entered very haflily, and ex-ercifed the clubs which they ufe in battle. They did this, by firfl twirling them in their hands, and making circular flrokcs before them with great force and quicknefs ; but fo fkilfully managed, that, though Handing quite clofe, they never interfered. They fhifted their clubs from hand to hand, with great dexterity; and, after continuing a little time, kneeled, and made different motions, toffing the clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell; and then went off as haflily as they entered. Their heads were covered with pieces of white cloth, tied at the crown (almofl like a night-cap) with a wreath of foliage round the forehead ; but they had only very fmall pieces of white cloth tied about their waifls; probably, that they might be cool, and free from every incumbrance or weight. A perfon with a fpear, dreffed like the former, then came in, and in the fame haily manner; looking about eagerly, as if in fearch of fomebody to throw it at. lie then ran haflily to one fide of the crowd in the front, and put himfelf in a threatening attitude, as if he meant toflrike with his fpear at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling, as it were with rage. He continued in this manner only a few feconds, when he moved to the
other
1777-     other fide, and having flood in the fame poflurc there,
June. #      0 1
-' for the fame fhort time, retreated from the ground, as fafl
as when he made his appearance. The dancers, who had divided into two parties, kept repeating fomething flowly all this while; and now advanced, and joined again, ending with univerfai applaufe. It fhould feem, that this dance was confidcred as one of their capital performances, if we might judge from fome of the principal people being engaged in it. For one of the drums was beat by Futtafaihc, the brother of Poulaho, another by Feenou, and the third, which did not belong to the chorus, by Mareewagee himfelf, at the entrance of his hut.
The laft dance had forty men, and two drums, as a chorus. It confifted of fixty men, who had not danced before, dif-pofed in three rows, having twenty-four in front. But, before they began, we were entertained with a pretty long preliminary harangue, in which the whole body made re-fponfes to a fingle perfon who fpokc. They recited fentences (perhaps verfes) alternately with the chorus, and made many motions with the pagge, in a very brifk mode, which were all applauded with marccai! and fyfogge! words cxprcfling two dilferent degrees of praife. 1 hey divided into two bodies, with their backs to each other ; formed again, fhifted their ranks, as in the other dances j divided and retreated, making room for two champions, who ex-ercifed their clubs as before; and after them two others: the dancers, all the time, reciting flowly in turn with the chorus ; after which they advanced, and finifhed.
Thefe dances, if they can properly be called fo, lafted from eleven till near three o'clock ; and though they were, doubtlefs, intended, particularly, cither in honour of us, or to fhew a fpecimen of their dexterity, vaft numbers of 4 their
their own people attended as fpectators.  Their numbers j777-
could not be computed exactly, on account of' the inequality \-,—j
of the ground; but, by reckoning the inner circle, and the number in depth, which was between twenty and thirty in many places, we fuppofed that there muff be near four thoufand. At the fame time, there were round the trading place at the tent, and flraggling about, at leafl as many more; and fome of us computed, that, at this time, there were not lefs than ten or twelve thoufand people, in our neighbourhood; that is, within the compafs of a quarter of a mile; drawn together, for the mofl part, by mere curiofity.
, It is with regret I mention, that we could not underfland what was fpoken, while we were able to fee what was acted, in thefe amufements. This, doubtlcfs, would have afforded us much information, as to the genius and cufloms of thefe people. It was obfervablc, that, though the fpectators always approved of the various motions, when well made, a great fhare of the pleafure they received feemed to arifc from the fentimentai part, or what the performers delivered in their fpecches. However, the mere acting part, independently of the fentences repealed, was well worth our notice, both with refpect to the extcnfive plan on which it was executed, and. to the various motions, as well as the exact unity, with which they were performed. The drawings which Mr. Webber made of the performances at Hapaee* and which are equally applicable to thofe exhibited now, will fervc much to illuflrate the account here given of the order in which the actors range themfelves. P>ut neither pencil nor pen can defcribc the numerous actions and motions, the angularity of which was not greater, than Vol. I. Qji was
was the eafe and gracefulnefs with which they were performed.
At night, we were entertained with the bomai, or night dances, on a fpace before Feenou's temporary habitation. They lailed about three hours ; in which time wc had about twelve of them performed, much after the fame manner as thofe at Hapaee. But, in two, that were performed by women, a number of men came and formed a circle within their's. And, in another, confiding of twenty-four men, there wxre a number of motions with the hands, that we had not feen before, and were highly applauded. The mufic was, alfo, once changed, in the courfe of the night; and in one of the dances, Feenou appeared at the head of fifty men who had performed at Hapaee, and he was well dreffed with linen, a large piece of gauze, and fome little pictures hung round his neck. But it was evident, after the diverfions were clofed, that we had put thefe poor people, or rather that they had put themfelves, to much inconvenience. For being drawn together on this uninhabited part of their iiland, numbers of them were obliged to lie down and ileep under the bullies, by the fide of a tree, or of a canoe ; nay many either lay down in the open air, which they are not fond of, or walked about all the night.
The whole of this entertainment was conducted with far better order, than could have been expected in fo large an affcmbly. Amongft fuch a multitude, there muft be a number of ill-difpofed people ; and we, hourly, experienced it. All our care and attention did not prevent their plundering us, in every quarter \ and that, in the moft daring and infolent manner. 1 here was hardly any thing that they did not attempt to ileal; and yet, as the crowd was always fo
great,
great, I would not allow the fentries to fire, left the inno- ITT?'
cent fhould fuiTer for the guilty.   They once, at noon day, *—v-'
ventured to aim at taking an anchor from off the Discovery's bows ; and they would certainly have fucceeded, if the flook had not hooked one of the chain plates in lowering down the fhip's fide, from which they could not difengage it by hand; and tackles were things they were unacquainted with. The only ad of violence they were guilty of, was the breaking the moulder bone of one of our goats, fo that fhe died foon after. This lofs fell upon themfelves, as fhe was one of thofe that I intended to leave upon the ifland; but of this, the perfon who did it, was ignorant.
Early in the morning of the 18th, an incident happened, Wednef. 18. that ftrongly marked one of their cuftoms.   A man got out of a canoe into the quarter gallery of the Refolution, and Hole from thence a pewter bafon.   He was difcovered, pur-fued, and brought along-fide the fhip.   On this occafion, three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud lamentations over the prifoner, beating their breafts and faces in a moft violent manner, with the infide of their fills; and all this was done without fhedding a tear.   This mode of cxpreffing grief is what occafions the mark which almoft all this people bear on the face, over the cheek bones. The repeated blows which they inflict upon this part, abrade the fkin, and make even the blood flow out in a confiderable quantity ; and when the wounds arc recent, they look as if a hollow circle had been burnt in.    On many occafions, they actually cut this part of the face with an inflrument; in the fame manner as the people of Otaheite cut their heads.
This day, I beftowTed on Mareewagee fome prefents, in return for thofe we had received from him the day before;
Q_q z and
and as the entertainments which he had then exhibited for our amufement, called upon us to make fome exhibition in our way, I ordered the party of marines to go through their cxercife, on the fpot where his dances had been performed ; and, in the evening, played off fome fireworks at the fame place. Poulaho, with all the principal Chiefs, and a great number of people, of all denominations, were prefent. The platoon firing, which was executed tolerably well, feemed to give them pleafure ; but they were loft in aftonifhment when they beheld our water rockets. They paid but little attention to the fife and drum, or French horns, that played during the intervals. The king fat behind every body, becaufe no one is allowed to fit behind him; and, that his view might not be obftructed, nobody fat immediately before him; but a lane, as it were, was made by the people from him, quite down to the fpace allotted for the
fireworks.
In expectation of this evening fhew, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged, the greatcft part of the afternoon, in boxing and wreftling; the firft of which exercifes they call fangatooa, and the fecond foohoo. When any of them choofes to wrcftle, he gets up from one fide of the ring, and croilcs the ground in a fort of mea-fnrcd pace, clapping fmartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow found j that is reckoned the challenge. If no perfon comes out from the oppofite fide to engage him, he returns, in the fame manner, and lits down ; but fometimes Hands clapping, in the midft of the ground, to provoke fome one to come out. If an opponent appear, they come together with marks of the greater! good-nature, generally mailing, and taking time to adjuft the piece of cloth which is fattened round the waift. o They
They then lay hold of each other by this girdle, with a hand on each fide; and he who fucceeds in drawing his antagonifl to him, immediately tries to lift him upon his breaft, and throw him upon his back ; and if he be able to turn round with him two or three times, in that pofition, before he throws him, his dexterity never fails of procuring plaudits from the fpectators. If they be more equally matched, they clofe foon, and endeavour to throw each other by entwining their legs, or lifting each other from the ground ; in which flruggles they fhew a prodigious exertion of ftrength, every mufcle, as it were, being ready to burft with ftraining. When one is thrown, he immediately quits the field, but the victor fits down for a few feconds, then gets up, and goes to the fide he came from, who proclaim the victory aloud, in a fentence delivered flowly, and in a mufical cadence. After fitting a fhort fpacc, he rifes again and challenges; when fometimes feveral antagonifts make their appearance; but he has the privilege of choo-fing which of them he plcafes to wrcflle with ; and has, likewife, the preference of challenging again, if he fhould throw his adverfary, until he himfelf be vanquifhed ; and then the oppofite fide fing the fong of victory in favour of their champion. It alfo often happens, that five or fix rife from each fide, and challenge together ; in which cafe, it is common to fee three or four couple engaged on the field at once. But it is aflonifhing to fee what temper they prefcrvc in this exercife ; for we obferved no inftances of their leaving the fpot, with the leaft difpleafurc in their countenances. When they find, that they are fo equally matched as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual ccnlent. And if the fall of one is not fair, or if it does not appear very clearly who has had the advantage*
both
*777<    Tboth fides fing the victory, and then they engage again.
—*-' But no perfon, who has been vanquifhed, can engage with
his conqueror a fecond time.
The boxers advance fide-ways, changing the fide at every pace, with one arm ftretched fully out before, the other behind ; and holding a piece of cord in one hand, which they wrap firmly about it, when they find an antagonift, or elfe have done fo before they enter. This, I imagine, they do, to prevent a diflocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are directed chiefly to the head; but fometimes to the fides ; and are dealt out with great activity. They fhift fides, and box equally well with both hands. But one of their favourite and moft dextrous blows, is, to turn round on their heel, juft as they have ftruck their antagonift, and to give him another very fmart one with the other hand backward.
The boxing matches feldom laft long; and the parties cither leave off together, or one acknowledges his being beat. But they never fing the fong of victory in thefe cafes, unlefs one ftrikes his adverfary to the ground ; which fhews, that, of the two, wreftling is their moft approved divcrfion. Not only boys engage, in both the exercifes, but frequently little girls box very obftinately for a fhort time. In all which cafes, it doth not appear, that they ever confider it as the fmallcft difgrace to be vanquifhed ; and the perfon overcome fits down, with as much indifference, as if he had never entered the lifts. Some of our people ventured to contend with.th.em in both exercifes, but were always worfted; except in a few iriftances, where it appeared, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed more to the victory, than the fuperiority of the perfon they engaged.
f The
The cattle, which we had brought, and which were all \77
T in?
on more, however carefully guarded, I was fenfible, run no <_-v
fmall rifk:, when I confidered the thicvifh difpofition of many of the natives, and their dexterity in appropriating to themfelves by Health, what they faw no profpccl of obtaining by fair means. For this reafon I thought it prudent to declare my intention of leaving behind me fome of our animals; and even to make a diftribution of them previoufly to my departure.
With this view, in the evening of the 19th, I aflembled Thurfd all the Chiefs before our houfe, and my intended prcfents to them were marked out.   To Poulaho, the king, I gave a young Engliih bull and cow; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram, and two ewes; and to Feenou, a horfe and a mare.   As my defign, to make fuch a diftribution, had been made known the day before, moft of the people in the neighbourhood were then prefent. I inftrucled Omai to tell them, that there were no fuch animals within many months fail of their iiland; that we had brought them, for their ufe, from that immenfe diftance, at a vaft trouble and expence; that, therefore, they muft be careful not to kill any of thenv till they had multiplied to a numerous race ; and, laftly, that they and their children ought to remember, that they had received them from the men of Britane,   He alfo explained to them their feveral ufes, and what elfe was ne-ceffary for them to know, or rather as far as he knew; for Omai was not very well verfed in fuch things himfelf. As I.intended that the above prefents fhould remain with the other cattle, till we were ready to fail, I defired each of the Chiefs to fend a man or two to look after their reflective animals, along with my people, in order that they might be better acquainted with them, and with the manner
»777-    of treating them.   The king and Feenou did fo j but neither
<-ii-' Mareewagee, nor any other perfon for him, took the leafl
notice of the fheep afterward; nor did old Toobou attend at this meeting, though he was invited, and was in the neighbourhood. I had meant to give him the goats, viz. a ram and two ewes; which, as he was fo indifferent about them, I added to the king's fhare.
Friday 20. It foon appeared, that fome were diffatisfied with this allotment of our animals ; for, early next morning, one of our kids, and two turkey-cocks, were miffing. I could not be fo fimple as to fuppofe, that this was merely an accidental lofs; and I was determined to have them again. The firfl flep I took was to feizc on three canoes that happened to be along-fide the fhips. I then went afhore, and, having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and fome other Chiefs, in the houfe that we occupied, I immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to underfland, that they muff remain under reflrainr, till not only the kid and the turkeys, but the other things, that had been flolcn from us, at different times, were reflored. They concealed, as well as they could, their feelings, on finding themfelves prisoners; and, having allured me, that every thing fhould be reflored, as I defired, fat down to drink their tdvat feemingly much at their cafe. It was not long before an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to me. In the mean time, fome armed natives began to gather behind the houfe; but, on a part of our guard marching againft them, they difperfed ; and I advifed the Chiefs to give orders, that no more mould appear. Such orders were accordingly given by them, and they were obeyed. On afking them to go aboard with me to dinner, they readily confented. But fome having afterward objected to the king's going, he inflantly rofe up, and declared he
would
would be the firfl man. Accordingly we came on board. I kept them there till near four o'clock, when I conducted th em afhore; and, foon after, the kid, and one of the turkey-cocks, were brought back. The other, they faid, mould be reflored the next morning. I believed this would happen, and releafed both them and the canoes.
After the Chiefs had left us, I walked out with Omai, to obferve how the people about us fared; for this was the time of their meals. I found that, in general, they were at fhort commons. Nor is this to be wondered at, fince mofl of the yams, and other provifions which they brought with them, were fold to us; and they never thought of returning to their own habitations, while they could find any fort of fubfiflence in our neighbourhood. Our flation was upon an uncultivated point of land; fo that thers were none of the iflanders, who, properly, refided withia half a mile of us. But, even at this diftance, the multitude of grangers being fo great, one might have expected, that every houfe would have been much crowded. It was quite otherwife. The families reading there were as much left to themfelves, as if there had not been a fupernumcrary vifiter near them. All the flrangers lived in little temporary fheds, or under trees and bufhes ; and the cocoa-trees were flripped of their branches, to erect habitations for the Chiefs.
In this walk wc met with about half a dozen women, in one place, at fupper. Two of the company, I obferved, being fed by the others, on our afking the reafon, they faid taboo mattes. On farther inquiry we found, that one of them had, two months before, wafhed the dead corpfe of a Chief; and that, on this account, fhe was not to handle any food for five months.   The other had performed the
Vol. I. R r fame
\777-    fame office to the corpfe of another perfon of inferior rank.
Juno. * *
i_ „—»j and was now under the fame reftridtion; but not for fo long a time. At another place, hard by, we faw another woman fed ; and wc learnt, that flie had affifled in warning the corpfe of the above-mentioned Chief.
Saturday 21. Early the next morning, the king came on board, to invite me to an entertainment, which he propofed to give the fame day. He had already been under the barber's hands ; his head being all befmeared with red pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown colour. After break faff, I attended him to the fliore; and we found his people very bufy, in two places, in the front of our area, fixing, in an upright and fquare pofition, thus [ I ° ], four very long pofls, near two feet from each other. The fpace between the pofts was afterward filled up with yams ; and as they went on filling it, they fattened pieces of flicks acrofs, from pott to pott, at the diftance of about every four feet; to prevent the pofts from feparating, by the weight of the inclofed yams, and alfo to get up by. When the yams had reached the top of the firft pofts, they faliened others to them, and fo continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet, or upward. On the top of one, they placed two baked hogs; and on the top of the other, a living one j and another they tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiofity to obferve, with what facility and difpatch thefe two piles were raifed. Had our feamen been ordered to execute fuch a work, they would have fworn that it could not be performed without carpenters; and the carpenters would have called to their aid a dozen different forts of tools, and have expended, at leaft, a hundred weight of nails; and, after all, it would have employed them as many days, as it did
i , thefe
thefe people hours. But feamen, like molt other amphibious animals, are always the moft helplcfs on land. After they had completed thefe two piles, they made feveral other heaps of yams and bread-fruit on each fide of the area; to which were added a turtle, and a large quantity of excellent fifli. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and fome red feathers, was the king's prefent tome; and he feemed to pieque himfelf on exceeding, as he really did, Fecnou's liberality, which I experienced at Hapaee.
About one o'clock they began the mai, or dances ; the firfl of which was almofl a copy of the firfl that was exhibited at Mareewagee's entertainment. The fecond was conducted by Captain Furneaux's Toobou, who, as wc mentioned, had alfo danced there; and in this, four or five women were introduced, who went through the feveral parts with as much cxactnefs as the men. Toward the end, the performers divided to leave room for two champions, who excreifed their clubs, as defcribed on a former occafion. And, in the third dance, which was the laft now prefented, two more men, with their clubs, difplayed their dexterity. The dances were fucceeded by wreftling and boxing ; and one man entered the lifts with a fort of club, made from the flern of a cocoa-leaf, which is firm and heavy, but could find no antagonift to engage him at fo rough a fport. At night we had the bomai repeated ; in which Poulaho himfelf danced, drefled in Englifh manufacture. But neither thefe, nor the dances in the day-time, were fo confiderable, nor carried on with fo much fpirit, as Fcenou's, or Mareewagee's ; and, therefore, there is lefs occafion to be more particular in our defcription of them. •
In order to be prefent the whole time, I dined afhorc. The king fat down with us *, but he neither eat nor drank.
R r 2 I found
I found that this was owing to the prefence of a female,, whom, at his defire, I had admitted to the dining party; and who, as we afterward understood, had fuperior rank to himfelf. As foon as this great perfonage had dined, fhe flepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet; and then fhe retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glafs of wine, and then received the obeifance of all her followers. This was the fingle inflance we ever obferved of his paying this mark of reverence to any perfon. At the king's defire, I ordered fome fireworks to be played off in the evening; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this exhibition did not anfwer expectation.
CHAP.
chap. viii.
Some of the Officers plundered by the Natives.—A fifhing Party,—A Vifit to Poulaho.—A Fiatooka defcribed.— Obfervations on the Country Entertainment at Poulaho s Houje.—His Mourning Ceremony.—Of the Kava Plant, and the Manner of preparing the Liquor.—Account of Onevy, a little If and.—One of the Natives wounded by a Sentinel.—Meffrs. King and Anderfon vifit the King's Brother.—Their Entertainment.—Another Mourning Ceremony.—Manner ojfaffing the Night.—Remarks on the Country they paffed through.—Preparations made for failing.—An Eclipfe of the Sun, imperfe&ly obferved.—Mr. Anderfons Account of the If and, and its Produ&ions.
AS no more entertainments were to be expected, on either fide, and the curiofity of the populace was, by this time, pretty well fatisfied; on the day after Poula-ho's haiva, moft of them left us. We ftill, however, had thieves about us; and, encouraged by the negligence of our own people, we had continual inftanccs of their depredations.
Some of the officers, belonging to both fhips, who had made an excurfion into the interior parts of the ifland, without my leave, and, indeed, without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an abfence of two days. They 9 had
*777-     had taken with them their mufkets, with the neceffary
June. < *
v—v—~» ammunition, ,and feveral fmall articles of the favourite commodities ; all which the natives had the dexterity to Ileal from them, in the courfe of their expedition. This affair was likely to be attended with inconvenient confe-quenccs. For, our plundered travellers, upon their return, without confulting me, employed Omai to complain to the king of the treatment they had met with. He, not knowing what flep I fhould take, and, from what had already happened, fearing left I might lay him again under reflraint,
-Monday 23. went off early the next morning. His example was followed by Feenou; fo that we had not a Chief, of any authority, remaining in our neighbourhood. I was very much difpleafed at this, and reprimanded Omai for having pre-furoed to meddle. This reprimand put him upon his metal to bring his friend Fcenou back j and he fucceeded in the negociation ; having this powerful argument to urge, that he might depend upon my ufmg no violent meafures to oblige the natives 'to rcflorc what had been taken from the gentlemen. Fcenou, truffing to this declaration, returned toward the evening; and, encouraged by his reception, Poulaho favoured us with his company the day after.
Tuefday 24. Both thefe Chiefs, upon this occafion, very juflly obferved to me, that, if any of my people, at any time, wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it; in which cafe they would fend proper people along with them ; and then they would be anfwerablc for their fafety. And I am convinced, from experience, that, by taking this very rcafonable precaution, a man and his property may be as fafe among thefe iflanders, as in other parts of the more civilized world. Though I gave my lei f no trouble about the recovery of the things flolen upon this occafion, mofl
of
of them, through Feenou's interpofition, were recovered; except one mufket, and a few other articles of inferior value. By this time alfo, we had recovered the turkey-cock, and moft of the tools, and other matters, that had been ftolen from our workmen.
On the 25th, two boats, which I had fent to look for a Wednef. 25. channel, by which we might, moft commodioufty, get to fea, returned. The Matters,- who commanded them, reported, that the channel to the North, by which wc came in, was highly dangerous, being full of coral rocks from one fide to the other; but that, to the Eaftward, there was a very good channel; which, however, was very much contracted, in one place, by the fmall iflands; fo that a leading wind would be requifite to get through it; that is, a Wefterly wind, which, we had found, did not often blow here. We had now recruited the fhips with wood and water; we had finifhed the repairs of our fails; and had little more to expect from the inhabitants, of the produce of their ifland. However, as an eclipfe of the fun was to happen upon the 5th of the next month, I refolvCd to defer failing till that time had elapfed, in order to have a chance of ob-fcrving it.
Having, therefore, fome days of leifure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, fet out, early next morning, in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the Thurfday 26V other great men ufually refide. As we rowed up the inlet, we met with fourteen canoes fifhing in company ; in one of which was Poulaho's fon. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between two poles; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and fecurc the fifli. They had already caught fome fine mullets ; and they put about a dozen into
our,
our boat. I defired to fee their method of fifhing ; which they readily complied with. A fhoal of fifli was fuppofed to be upon one of the banks, which they inftantly inclofed in a long net like a feinc, or fet-net. This the fifhers, one getting into the water out of each boat, furrounded with the triangular nets in their hands ; with which they fcooped the fifh out of the feine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. They flic wed us the whole procefs of this operation (which feemed to be a fure one), by throwing in fome of the fifli they had already caught; for, at this time, there happened to be none upon the bank that was inclofed.
Leaving the prince and his fifhing party, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before, on our fruitlefs errand to fee Mareewagee. As foon as we got on fhore, the king defired Omai to tell me, that I need be under no apprehenfions about the boat, or any thing in her, for not a fingle article would be touched by any one; and we afterward found this to be the cafe. We were immediately conducted to one of Poulaho's houfes not far off, and near the public one, or rnalaee, in which we had been, when we firft vifited Mooa. This, though pretty large, feemed to be his private habitation, and was fituated within a plantation. The king took his feat at one end of the houfe, and the people, who came to vifit him, fat down, as they arrived, in a femicircle at the other end. The firft thing done, was to prepare a bowl of kava, and to order fome yams to be baked for us. While thefe were getting ready, fome of us, accompanied by a few of the king's attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, walked out to take a view of afiatooka, or burying-place, which we had obferved to be almoft clofe by the houfe, and was much more exten-
five,
five, and feemingly of more confequence, than any we had feen at the other iflands. We were told, that it belonged to the king. It confided of three pretty large houfes, fituated upon arifmg ground, or rather juft by the brink of it, with a fmall one, at fome diftance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle houfe of the three firft, was, by much, the largeft, and placed in a fquare, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raifed about three feet. The other houfes were placed on little mounts, raifed artificially to the fame height. The floors of thefe houfes, as alfo the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loofe, fine pebbles, and the. whole was inclofcd by large flat flones * of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges j one of which flones mcafured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thicknefs. One of the houfes, contrary to what wc had feen before, was open on one fide; and within it were two rude, wooden bulls of men; one near the entrance, and the other farther in. On inquiring of the natives, who had followed us to the ground, but durft not enter here, What thefe images were intended for? they made us as fenfiblc as we could wifh, that they were merely memorials of fome Chiefs who had been buried there, and not the re-prefentations of any deity. Such monuments, it fhould feem, arc feldom raifed; for thefe had, probably, been erected feveral ages ago. We were told, that the dead had been buried in each of thefe houfes ; but no marks of this appeared. In one of them, was the carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven afhore on their coaft, and depofitcd here. At the foot of the rifing ground, was a large area, or grafs-plot, with different trees planted about
* The burying-placcs of the Chiefs at the Caroline Iflands, are alfo inclofed iu this nv.i.ncr.   See Lctires Edifiantestf Curieu/es, Tom. xv. p.. 309.
Vol. I. S f it;
it i amongft which were feveral of thofe called etoa, very large. Thefe, as they refemble the cyprefs, had a fine effect in fuch a place. There was, alfo, a row of low palms near one of the houfes, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old bafkete. Mr. Webber's drawing of this fiatooka^ will fupply the defects of my defcription.
After dinner, or rather after we had refreshed ourfelves with fome provifions which we had brought with us from our fhip, we made an excurfion into the country, taking a pretty large circuit, attended by one of the king's minifters» Our train was not great, as he would not fuffer the rabble to follow us. He alfo obliged all thofe whom we met upon our progrefs, to fit down, till we had paffed ; which is a mark of refpect due only to their Sovereigns. We found by far the greatefl: part of the country cultivated, and planted with various forts of productions ; and moft of thefe plantations were fenced round. Some fpots, where plantations had been formerly, now produced nothing, lying fallow j and there were places that had never been touched; but lay in a ftate of nature ; and, yet, even thefe were ufeful, in affording them timber, as they were generally covered with trees. We met with feveral large uninhabited houfes, which, we were told, belonged to the king. There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of foot-paths leading to every part of the ifland. The roads being good, and the country level, travelling was very eafy. It is remarkable, that when we were on the moft elevated parts, at leaft a hundred feet above the level of the fea, we often met with the fame coral rock, which is found at the fhore, projecting above the furface, and perforated and cut into all thofe inequalities which are ufually feen in rocks that lie within the wafh of the tide.  And yet thefe
very
very fpots, with hardly any foil upon them, were covered jW" with luxuriant vegetation. We were conducted to feveral -v—■ little pools, and to fome fprings of water ; but, in general, they were either ilinking or brackiih, though recommended to us by the natives as excellent. The former were, moftly, inland, and the latter near the fhore of the bay, and below high-water mark; fo that tolerable water could be taken up from them, only when the tide was out.
When wc returned from our walk, which was not till the dufk of the evening, our fupper was ready. It confided of a baked hog, fome fifli, and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of thefe iflands. As there was nothing to amufe us after fupper, we followed the euflom of the country, and lay down to fleep, our beds being mats fpread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himfelf very happy with fome wine and brandy which we had brought, flept in the fame houfe, as well as feveral others of the natives. Long before daybreak, he and they all rofe, and fat converfmg by moonlight. The converfation, as might well be gueifcd, turned wholly upon us j the king entertaining his company with an account of what he had feen, or remarked. As foon as it was day, they difperfed, fome one way, and fome another; Friday 27. but it was not long before they all returned, and, with them, feveral more of their countrymen.
They now began to prepare a bowl of kava; and, leaving them fo employed, I went to pay a vifit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, who had a houfe hard by, which, for fize and neatnefs, was exceeded by few in the place. As I had left the others, fo I found here a company, preparing a morning draught.   This Chief made a prefent to me of a
S f 2 living
living hog, a baked one, a quantity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. When I returned to the king, I found him, and his circle of attendants, drinking the fecond bowl of kava. That being emptied, he told Omai, that he was going prefently to perform a mourning ceremony, called Tooge, on account of a fon who had been dead fome time j and he defired us to accompany him. We were glad of the opportunity, expecting to fee fomewhat new or curious.
The firfl thing the Chief did, was to If ep out of the houfe, attended by two old women, and put on a new fuit of clothes, or rather a new piece of cloth, and, over it, an old ragged mat, that might have ferved his great grandfather, on fome fuch occafion. His fervants, or thofe who attended him, were all dreffed in the fame manner, excepting that none of their mats could vie, in antiquity, with that of their maffer. Thus equipped, we marched off, preceded by about eight or ten perfons, all in the above habits of ceremony, each of them, befides, having a fmall green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bough in his hand, till we drew near the place of rendezvous, when he alfo put it about his neck. We now entered a fmall inclofurc, in which was a neat houfe, and we found one man fitting before it. As the company entered, they pulled off the green branches from round their necks, and threw them away. The king having firft feated himfelf, the others fat down before him, in the ufual manner. The circle increafed, by others dropping in, to the number of a hundred or upward, moftly old men, all dreffed as above defcribed. The company being completely affembled, a large root of kava, brought by one of the king's fervants, was produced, and a bowl which contained four or five gallons. Several perfons now began to chew the root, and this bowl was made brim ful I of
liquor.
liquor.   While it was preparing, others were employed in »777-
making drinking cups of plantain leaves.   The lirft cup v.. *>
that was filled, was prefented to the king, and he ordered
it to be given to another perfon.   The fecond was alfo
brought to him, which he drank, and the third was offered
to me.   Afterward, as each cup was filled, the man who
filled it, allied, who was to have it \   Another then named the
perfon; and to him it was carried.   As the bowl grew low,
the man who diftributed the liquor feemed rather at a lofs
to whom cups of it fhould be next fent, and frequently con-
fultcd thofe who fat near him.   This mode of diflribution
continued, while any liquor remained ; and though not
half the company had a fhare, yet no one feemed diffatif-
ficd.   About half a dozen cups ferved for all; and each, as
it was emptied, was thrown down upon the ground, where
the fervants picked it up, and carried it to be filled again.
During the whole time, the Chief and his circle fat, as was
ufually the cafe, with a great deal of gravity, hardly fpeak-
ing a word to each other.
We had long waited in expectation, each moment, of feeing the mourning ceremony begin ; when, foon after the kava was drank out, to our great furprizc and difap-pointment, they all rofe up and difperfed ; and Poulaho told us, he was now ready to attend us to the fhips. If this was a mourning ceremony, it was a flrange one. Perhaps, it was the fecond, third, or fourth mourning; or, which was not very uncommon, Omai might have mifunderflood what Poulaho faid to him. For, excepting the change of drefs, and the putting the green bough round their necks, nothing feemed to have paffed at this meeting, but what wc law them practife, too frequently, every day.
" We
ti * \yc jiad recn tjie drinking of kava fometimes, at the other iflands ; but, by no means, fo frequently as here, where it feems to be the only forenoon employment of the principal people. The kava is a fpecies of pepper, which they cultivate for this purpofe, and elfeem it a valuable article, taking great care to defend the young plants from any injury, and it is commonly planted about their houfes. It feldom grows to more than a man's height; though I have feen fome plants almofl double that. It branches con-fidcrably, with large heart-fhaped leaves, and jointed flalks. The root is the only part that is ufed at the Friendly Iflands, which, being dug up, is given to the fervants that attend, who, breaking it in pieces, fcrape the dirt off with a fhell, or bit of flick ; and then each begins and chews his portion, which he fpits into a piece of plantain leaf. The perfon, who is to prepare the liquor, collects all thefe mouthfuls, and puts them into a large wooden dim or bowl, adding as much water as will make it of a proper ftrength. It is, then, well mixed up with the hands; and fome loofe fluff, ■of which mats are made, is thrown upon the furface, which intercepts the fibrous part, and is wrung hard, to get as much liquid out from it, as is poflible. The manner of diflributing it need not be repeated. The quantity which is put into each cup, is commonly about a quarter of a pint. The immediate effect of this beverage is not perceptible on thefe people, who ufe it fo frequently ; but on fome of .-ours, who ventured to try it, though fo haflily prepared, it had the fame power as fpirits have, in intoxicating them ; or, rather, it produced that kind of flupefaction, which is
* The following account of kava, to the end of this paragraph, is infertcd from JYlr, .Anderfon's journal.
f the
the confequence of ufingopium, or other fubftances of that '777-
x °   * June.
kind. It fhould be obferved, at the fame time, that though u—v—* thefe iflanders have this liquor always frefh prepared, and I have feen them drink it feven times before noon, it is, ne-verthelefs, fo difagreeable, or, at leafl, feems fo, that the greatefl part of them cannot fwallow it without making wry faces, and fhuddcring afterward."
As foon as this mourning ceremony was over, wc left Mooa, and fet out to return to the fhips. White wc rowed down the lagoon or inlet, we met with two canoes coming in from fifhing. Poulaho ordered them to be called along-fide our boat, and took from them every fifh and fhell they had got. He, afterward, flopped two other canoes, and fearched them, but they had nothing. Why this was done, I cannot fay; for we had plenty of proviflons in the boat. Some of this fifh he gave to me; and his fervants fold the refl on board the fhip. As we proceeded down the inlet, we overtook a large failing canoe. Every perfon on board her, that was upon his legs when we came up, fat down till we had paffed; even the man who fleered, though he could not manage the helm, except in a Handing poflure.
Poulaho, and others, having informed me, that there was fome excellent water on Onevy, a little ifland, which lies about a league off the mouth of the inlet, and on the North fide of the Eaflern channel, we landed there, in order to tafte it. But I found it to be as brackifh as mofl that we had met with. This ifland is quite in a natural ftate, being only frequented as a fifhing place,. , and has nearly the fame productions as Palmerfton's Ifland, with fome ctoa trees. After leaving Onevy, where we dined, in our way to the fhip, we took a view of a curious coral rock, which feems to have been thrown upon.
the.
\777-     the reef where it Hands.   It is elevated about ten or twelve
June.
u.—(—i feet above the furfaee of the fea that furrounds it. The bafe it refts upon, is not above one-third of the circumference of its projecting fummit, which I judged to be about one hundred feer, and is covered with etoa and pandanus trees.
When we got on board the fhip, I found that every thing had been quiet during my abfence, not a theft having been committed; of which Feenou, and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of his countrymen, boafled not a little. This fhews what power the Chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it; which we were feldom to expect, fince, whatever was flolen from us, generally, if not always, was conveyed to them.
The good conduct of the natives was of fhort duration ; Sawrday 28. for, the next day, fix or eight of them affaulted fome of our people, who were rawing planks. They were fired upon by the fen try ; and one was fuppofed to be wounded, and three others taken. Thefe I kept confined till night; and did not difmifs them without punifhment. After this, they behaved with a little more circumfpection, and gave us much lefs trouble. This change of behaviour, was certainly occafioned by the man being wounded; for, before, they had only been told of the effect of fire-arms, but now they had felt it. The repeated infolencc of the natives, had induced me to order the mufkets of the fentries to be loaded with fmall fhot, and to authorize them to fire on particular occafions^ I took it for granted, therefore, that this man had only been wounded with fmall fhor. But Mr. King and Mr. Anderfon, in an excurfion into the country, met with him, and found indubitable marks of his having 4 been
been wounded, but not dansrerouflv, with a mufket ball.   I 1J77-
' June.
never could find out how this mufket happened to be charged u->^»j with ball; and there were people enough ready to fwcar, that iis contents were only fmall fhot.
Mr. Andcrfon's account of the excurfion, jufl mentioned, will fill up an interval of two days, during which nothing of note happened, at the fhips : " Mr. King and I went, on the 30th, along with Futtafaihe as vifitcrs to his houfe, which Monday 30. is at Mooa, very near that of his brother Poulaho. A fhort time after we arrived, a pretty large hog was killed ; which is done by repeated flrokes on the head. The hair was then feraped off very dextroufly, with the fharp edge of pieces of fplit bamboo; taking the entrails out at a large oval hole cut in the belly, by the fame fimple inftrument. Before this, they had prepared an oven; which is a large hole dug in the earth, filled at the bottom with flones, about the fize of the fill, over which a fire is made till they are red hot. They took fome of thefe flones, wrapt up in leaves of the bread-fruit tree, and filled the hog's belly, fluffing in a quantity of leaves, to prevent their falling out, and putting a plug of the fame kind in the anus. The carcafe was then placed on fome flicks laid acrofs the flones, in a flanding poilurc, and covered with a great quantity of plantain leaves.- After which, they dug up the earth, all round; and having thus effectually clofed the oven, the operation of baking required no farther interference.
In the mean time, we walked about the country, but met with nothing remarkable, except a fiatooka of one houfe, Handing on an artificial mount, at leafl thirty feet high. A little on one fide of it, was a pretty large open area ; and, not far off, was a good deal of uncultivated ground ; which, on inquiring, why it lay waflc ; our guides feemed to fay,
Vol. I. T t belonged
j777-     belonged to the fatooka (which was Poulaho's), and was nor,
—v-' by any means, to be touched.   There was alfo, at no great
diftance, a number of ctooa trees, on which clung vail numbers of the large ternate bats, making a difagreeable noife. We could not kill any, at this time, for want of mufkets ; but fome, that were got at Annamooka, meafured near .three feet, when the wings were extended. On our returning to Futtafaihc's houfe, he ordered the hog, that had been dreffed, to be produced, with feveral baikets of baked yams, and fome cocoa-nuts. But we found, that, inftead of his entertaining us, we were to entertain him ; the property of the feaft being entirely transferred to us, as his gucfts, and we were to difpofe of it as we pleafed. The fame perfon who cleaned the hog in the morning, now cut it up (but not before we defired him), in a very dexterous manner, with a knife of fplit bamboo; dividing the feveral parts, and hitting the joints, with a quicknefs and fkill that furprized us very much. The whole was fet down before us, though at leaft fifty pounds weight, until wc took a fmall piece away, and defired, that they would fhare the reft amongft the people fitting round. But it was not without a great many fcruples they did that at laft; and then they afked, what particular perfons they fhould give it to. However, they were very well pleafed, when they found, that it was not contrary to any cuftom of ours ; fome carrying off the portion they had received, and others eating it upon the fpot. It was with great difficulty, that we could prevail upon Futtafaihe himfelf to eat a fmall bit.
After dinner, we went with him, and five or fix people, his attendants, toward the place where Poulaho's mourning ceremony was tranfacted, the laft time wc were at Mooa; but we did not enter the inclofure.   Every perfon who went
4 with.
with us, had the mat tied over his cloth, and fome leaves !?77-
June.
about the neck, as had been done on the former occafion; ~v— and when we arrived at a large open boat-houfe, where a few people were, they threw away their leaves, fat down before it, and gave their checks a few gentle flrokes with the fill; after which they continued fitting, for about ten minutes, with a very grave appearance, and then difperfed, without having fpoken a fingle word. This explained what Poulaho had mentioned about Tooge; though, from the operation only lading a few feconds, he had not been obferved to perform it. And this feems to be only a continuation of the mourning ceremony, by way of condolence. For, upon inquiring, on whofe account it was now performed; we were told, that it was for a Chief who had died at Vavaoo, fome time ago; that they had pracTifed it ever fince, and mould continue to do fo, for a confiderable time longer.
In the evening, we had a pig, dreffed as the hog, with yams and cocoa-nuts, brought for fupper ; and Futtafaihc finding, that we did not like the fcruples they had made before, to accept of any part of the entertainment, afked us immediately to fhare it, and give it to whom we pleafed. When fupper was over, abundance of cloth was brought for us to fleep in ; but we were a good deal difturbed, by a fingular inltance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge themfelves; that of being beat while they arc a/lcep. Two women fat by Futtafaihe, and performed this operation, which is called tooge tooge, by beating brifkly on his body and legs, with both fids, as on a drum, till he fell afleep, and continuing it the whole night, with fome fhort intervals. When once the perfon is afleep, they abate a little in the ftrength and quicknefs of the beating ; but refume it, if they obferve any appearance of his awaking.   In the morning, we found
T t 2 that
that Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went to ilcep by turns. In any other country, it would be fuppofed, that fuch a practice would put an end to all reft ; but here it certainly acts as an opiate; and is a ftrong proof of what habit may effect. The noifc of this, however, was not the only thing that kept us awake ; for the people, who paffed the night in the houfe, not only converfed amongft each other frequently, as in the day ; but all got up before it was light, and made a hearty meal on iith and yams, which were brought to them by a perfon, who feemed to know very well the appointed time for this nocturnal re-frefhmcnt.
Next morning we fet out with Futtafaihe, and walked down the Eaft fide of the bay, to the point. The country, all along this fide, is well cultivated ; but, in general, not fo much inclofcd as at Mooa ; and amongft many other plantain fields that we paffed, there was one at leaft a mile long, which was in excellent order, every tree growing with great vigour. We found, that, in travelling, Futtafaihe excrcifed a power, though by no means wantonly, which pointed out the great authority of fuch principal, men ; or is, perhaps, only annexed to thofe of the royal family. For he fent to one place for fifli; to another for yams ; and fo on, at other places ; and all his orders were obeyed with the greatefl rcadinefs, as if he had been abfolutc alafter of the people's property. On coming to the point, the natives mentioned fomcthing of one, who, they faid, had been fired at by fome of our people; and, upon our wifhing to fee him, they conducted us to a houfe, where wc found a man, who had been fhoc through the fhouldcr, but not dangeroufly; as the ball had entered a little above the inner part of the collar bone, and paffed out obliquely backward, i , / .We
We were furc, from the (late of the wound, that he was the "777*
July.
perfon who had been fired at by one of the fentinels, three \—. days before; though pofitive orders had been given, that none of them mould load their pieces with any thing but fmall fhot. We gave fome directions to his friends how to manage the wound, to which no application had been made; and they feemed pleafed, when we told them it would get well in a certain time. But, on our going away, they afked us to fend the wounded man fome yams, and other things for food ; and in fuch a manner, that we could not help thinking they confidered it to be our duty to fupport him, till he fhould get well.
In the evening we croffed the bay to our flation, in a canoe, which Futtafaihe had exercifed his prerogative in procuring, by calling to the firfl that paffed by. He had alfo got a large hog at this place and brought a fervant from his houfe with a bundle of cloth, which he wanted us to take with us, as a prefent from him. But the boat being fmall, wc objected ; and he ordered it to be brought over to us the next day."
I had prolonged my flay at this ifland, on account of the approaching eclipfe ; bur, on the yd of July, on looking Wednef. 2 at tire micrometer belonging to the board of longitude, I found fome of the rack work broken, and the inftrumcnt ufelefs till repaired; which there was not time to do before • it was intended to be ufed. Preparing now for our departure, I got on board, this day, all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except fuch as were deftincd to remain. I had dfifigJied to leave a turkey-cock and hen; but having now only two of each 'undifpofed of, one of the hens, through the ignorance of one of my people, was ftrangled,v
and I
and died upon the fpot. I had brought three turkey-hens to thefe iflands. One was killed, as above mentioned; and the other, by an ufelefs dog belonging to one of the officers. Thefe two accidents put it out of my powTcr to leave a pair here ; and, at the fame time, to carry the breed to Otaheite, for which iiland they were originally intended. I was forry, afterward, that I did not give the preference to Tongataboo, as the prefent would have been of more value there than at Otaheite ; for the natives of the former ifland, I am perfuaded, would have taken more pains to multiply the breed.
Timrfday 3. The next day we took up our anchor, and moved the fhips behind Pangimodoo, that we might be ready to take the advantage of the firft favourable wind, to get through the narrows. The king, who was one of our company, this day, at dinner, I obferved, took particular notice of the plates. This occafioned me to make him an offer of one, either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He chofe the firft; and then began to tell us the feveral ufes to which he intended to apply ir. Two of them are fo extraordinary, that I cannot omit mentioning them. He faid, that, whenever he fhould have occafion to vifit any of the other iflands, he > would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as a fort of reprefentative, in his abfence, that the people might pay it the fame obcifance they do to himfelf in perfon. He was afked, what had been ufually employed for this purpofe, before he got this plate j and we had the fatisfaction of learning from him, that this lingular honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he wafhed his hands. The other extraordinary ufe to which he meant to apply it in the room of his wooden bowd, was to d if cover a thief.   He faid, that, when any thing was ftolen, and the
thief
thief could not be found out, the people were all affembled together before him, when he wafhed his hands in water in this veffel; after which it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced, one after another, and touched it in the fame manner that they touch his foot, when they pay him obeifahce. If the guilty perfon touched it, he died immediately upon the fpot; not by violence, but by the hand of Providence; and if any one refufed to touch it, his refufal was a clear proof that he was the man. <
In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipfe, the Saturday^ weather was dark and cloudy, with fhowers of rain; fo , that we had little hopes of an obfcrvation.   About nine o'clock the fun broke out at intervals for about half an hour; after which it was totally obfeured, till within a minute or two of the beginning of the eclipfe.   We were all at our telefcopes, viz. Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, Captain Clerke, Mr. Bligh, and myfelf.   I loft the obfcrvation, by not having a dark glafs at hand, fuitable to the clouds that were continually palling over the fun; and Mr. Bligh had not got, the fun into the field of his telefcope; fo that the commencement of the eclipfe was only obferved by the other three gentlemen ; and by them, with an uncertainty of fe— «. vcral feconds, as follows :
H.   M. S.
By Mr. Bayly, at     11 46 23^
Mr. King, at      11 46 28 [Apparent time. Capt. Clerke, at 11 47 5
Mr. Bayly and Mr. King obferved, with the achromatic telefcopes, belonging to the board of longitude, of equal magnifying powers; and Captain Clerke obferved with one. of the reflectors. The fun appeared at intervals, till about the middle of the eclipfe ; after which it was feen no more
during,
during the day; fo that the end could not be obferved. The difappointment was of little confequence, fince the longitude was more than fufficiently determined, independently of this eclipfe, by lunar obfervations, whicli will be mentioned hereafter.
As foon as we knew the eclipfe to be over, we packed up the inflruments, took down the obfervatories, and fent every thing on board that had not been already removed. As none of the natives had taken the leafl notice or care of the three fheep allotted to Mareewagee, I ordered them to be carried back to the fhips. I was apprchcnfivc, that, if 1 had left them here, they run great rifk of being deflroyed by dogs. That animal did not exifl upon this ifland, when I firfl vifited it in 1773; but I now found they had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by myfelf, and partly from fome, imported fince that time, from an ifland not
very remote, called Fcejee. The dogs, however, at prefent, had not found their way into any of the Friendly Manas, except Tongataboo; and none but the Chiefs there had, as yet, got poffeflion of any.
Being now upon the eve of our departure from this ifland, I fhall add fome particulars about it, and its productions, for which I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon. And, having fpent as many weeks there, as I had done days * when I vifited it in 1773, the better opportunities that now occurred, of gaining more accurate information, and the Jkill of that gentleman, in directing his inquiries, will, in fome meafure, fupply the imperfection of my former account of this ifland.
" Amflerdam, Tongataboo, or (as the natives alfo very frequently called it) Tonga,  is about twenty leagues in
* From the 4th to the 7th of O&obcr.
circuit,
circuit, fomewhat oblong, though, by much, broader! at the Eaft end; and its greatefl length from Eaft to Weft. The South fhore, which I faw in 1773, ^s flraight, and confifts of coral rocks, eight or ten feet high, terminating perpendicularly, except in fome places where it is interrupted by fmall fandy beaches; on which, at low water, a range of black rocks may be feen. The Weft end is not above five or fix miles broad, but has a fhore fomewhat like that of the South fide ; whereas the whole North fide is environed with fhoals and iflands, and the fhore within them low and fandy. The Eaft fide or end is, moft probably, like the South; as the fhore begins to aftiimc a rocky appearance, toward the North Eaft point, though not above feven or eight feet high.
The ifland may, with the greatefl propriety, be called a low one, as the trees, on the Weft part, where we now lay at anchor, only appeared ; and the only eminent part, which can be feen from a fhip, is the South Eaft point ; though many gently rifing and declining grounds are ob-fervable by one wdio is afliore. The general appearance of the country docs not afford that beautiful kind of landfcape that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cafcades; but, at the fame time, it conveys to' the fpectator an idea of the mofl exuberant fertility, whether we refpect the places improved by art, or thofe flill in a natural ftate; both which yield all their vegetable productions witfi the greatefl vigour, and perpetual verdure. At a diftance, the furface feems entirely clothed with trees of various fi/cs ; fome of which are very large. Pmt, above the reft, the tall cocoa-palms always raife their tufted heads; and are far from being the fmallcft ornament to any country that produces them.   The bocgo, which is a
Vol. I. U u fpecies
fpecies 6f fig, with narrow pointed leaves, is the largefl fized tree of the ifland ; and on the uncultivated fpots, efpecially toward the fea, the mofl common bufhes and fmall trees are the pandanus; feveral forts of hiblfcus; the faitanoo, mentioned more than once in the courfe of our voyage; and a few others. It ought alfo to be obferved, that though the materials for forming grand landfcapes arc wanting, there are many of what might, at lead, be called neat pro-fpects, about the cultivated grounds and dwelling-places; but, more efpecially, about the fatookas; where fometimes art, and fometimes nature, has done much to pleafe the eye.
From the fituation of Tongataboo, toward the tropic, the climate is more variable, than in countries farther within that line ; though, perhaps, that might be owing to the feafon of the year, which was now the winter folflice. The winds are, for the mofl part, from fome point between South and Eafl; and, when moderate, are commonly attended with fine weather. When they blow frefher, the weather is often cloudy, though open ; and, in fuch cafes, there is frequently rain. The wind fometimes veers to the North Eaft, North North Eafl, or even North North Wefl, but never lafls long, nor blows flrong from thence; though it is commonly accompanied by heavy rain, and clofe fultry weather. The quick fucceiiion of vegetables has been already mentioned; but I am not certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brought about, are confiderable enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to their method of life, or rather that they fhould be very fenfible of the dilfercnt feafons. This, perhaps, may be inferred from the Hate of their vegetable productions, which are never fo much affected, with refpect to the foliage, as to died i that
that all at once; for every leaf is fucceeded by another, as fad as it falls; which caufes that appearance of univerfal and continual fpring found here.
The bafis of the ifland, as far as we know, is entirely a coral rock, which is the only fort that prefents itfelf on the fhore. Nor did we fee the leafl appearance of any other flone, except a few fmall blue pebbles flrewed about the fmtookas; and the fmooth, folid black flone, fomething like the lapis lyd'ius, of which the natives make their hatchets. But thefe may, probably, have been brought from other iflands in the neighbourhood ; for a piece of flatey, iron-coloured flone was bought at one of them, which was never feen here. Though the coral projects in many places above the furface, the foil is, in general, of a confiderable depth. In all cultivated places, it is, commonly, of a Ioofe, black colour ; produced, feemingly, in a great meafure, from the rotten vegetables that are planted there. Underneath which is, very probably, a clayey jlratum for a foil of that kind is often feen both in the low, and in the rifing grounds; but efpecially in feveral places toward the fhore, where it is of any height; and, when broken off, appears fometimes of a reddifh, though oftener of a brownifh yellow colour, and of a pretty fliff confidence. Where the fhore is low, the foil is commonly fandy, or rather compofed of triturated coral; which, however, yields bufhes growing with great luxuriance; and is fometimes planted, not unfucccfsfully, by the natives.
Cf cultivated fruits, the principal are plantains; of which they have fifteen different forts or varieties; bread-fruit; two forts of fruit found at Otaheite, and known there under the names of jambu and eeevee\ the latter a kind of
' -U u 2 plumb;
plumb; and vaft numbers of {haddocks, which, however, aic iound as often in a natural flatc, as planted.
The roots are yams, of which arc two forts ; one black, and fo large, that it often weighs twenty or thirty pounds; the other white, and long, feldom weighing a pound; a large root, called kdpptj one not unlike our white potatoes, called maivhaha-, the talo, or coccos of other places; and another, named jeejee.
Befides vail numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other forts of palms, two of which arc very fcarce. One of them is called beeoo; which grows almofl as high as the cocoa-trcc, has very large leaves plaited like a fan, and cluflcrs or bunches of globular nuts, not larger than a fmall piflol ball, growing amongfl the brandies, with a very hard kernel, which is fometimes eat. The other is a kind of cabbage-trcc, not diflinguifhabl'e from the cocoa, but by being rather thicker, and by having its leaves more ragged. It has a cabbage three or four feet long; at the top of which arc the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which is fcarcely two inches long, refembling an oblong cocoa-nut, with an infipid tenacious kernel, called, by the natives, neeoogoola, or red cocoa-nut, as it affumcs a reddifh call when ripe. The third fort is called cngo ongo, and much commoner, being generally found planted about their fmtooka^ It feldom grows higher than five feet, though fometimes to eigh't; and has a vail number of oval comprefTed nuts, as large as a pippin, flicking immediately to the trunk, amongft the leaves, which arc not eat. There is plenty of excellent fugar-cane, which is cultivated; gourds; bamboo; turmeric; and a fpecies of fig, about the fize of a fmall cherry, called matte, which, though wild, is fometimes eat. But the catalogue
taloguc of uncultivated plants is too large to be enumerated here. P>efules the pemphis dccifpenmnn^ mallococca, maba, and fome other new genera, defcribed by Dr. Foflcr *, there are a few more found here; which, perhaps, the different feafon s of the year, and his fhort flay, did not give him an opportunity to take notice of. Although it did not appear, during our longer flay, that above a fourth part of the trees, and other plants, were in flower j a circumflance abfolutely neceffary, to enable one to diflinguifh the various kinds.
The only quadrupeds, befides hogs, are a few rats, and fome dogs, which are not natives of the place, but produced from fome left by us in 1773, and by others got from Fcejee. Fowls, which are of a large breed, arc doineflicated here.
Amongfl the birds, arc parrots, fomewhat fmaller than the common grey ones, of an indifferent green on the back and wings, the tail bluilh, and the rcfl of a footy or chocolate brown ; parroqucts, not larger than a fparrow, of a fine yellowifh green, with bright azure on the crown of the head, and the throat and belly red ; befides another fort as large as a dove, with a blue crown and thighs, the throat and under part of the head erimfon, as alfo part of the belly, and the rcfl a beautiful green.
There are owls about the fize of our common fort, but of a finer plumage ; the cuckoos, mentioned at Palmcrflon's Iiland ; king-fdhcrs, about the fize of a thrufh, of a green-ifh blue, with a white ring about the neck; and a bird of the thrufh kind, almofl as big, of a dull green colour, with two yellow wattles at the bale of the bill, which is the only finging one we obferved here; but itcompenfates a good deal
* Sec his Character es Generum Plant arum.    Lond. 1776.
for
for the want of others by the flrength and melody of its notes, which fill the woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather.
The other land birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour, with a rufly neck ; a black fort with red eyes, not larger than a lark; large violet-coloured coots, with red bald crowns ; two forts of fly-catchers ; a very fmall fwallow ; and three forts of pigeons, one of which is le ramier cuivre of Monf. Sonncrat * ; another, half the fize of the common fort, of a light green on the back and wings, with a red forehead ; and a third, fomewhat lefs, of a purple brown, but whitifh underneath.
Of water-fowl, and fuch as frequent the fea, are the ducks feen at Annamooka, though fcarce here; blue and white herons; tropic birds; common noddies; white terns; anew fpecies of a leaden colour, with a black creft; a fmall blu-i(h curlew; and a large plover, fpottcd with yellow. Befides the large bats, mentioned before, there is alfo the common fort.
The only noxious or difgufling animals of the reptile or infect tribe, arc fea makes, three feet long, with black and white circles alternately, often found on fhore; fome fcorpions, and centipedes. There are fine green guanoes, a foot and a half long ; another brown and fpottcd lizard, about a foot long; and two other fmall forts. Amongft the other infects are fome beautiful moths; butterflies; very large fpiders; and others; making, in the whole, about fifty different forts.
The fea abounds with fifli, though the variety is lefs than might be expected.   The mofl frequent forts are mullets;
* Voyage h la Nouvelle Guince, Tab. CI I.
feveral
feveral forts of parrot -fifli; filver fifli; old wives; fome beautifully fpotted foles; leather-jackets ; bonnetos; and albi-cores; befides the eels mentioned at Palmcrflon's Ifland; fome fli arks; rays; pipe-fifh ; a fort of pike ; and fome curious devil-fifh.
The many reefs and fhoals on the North fide of the ifland, afford fhelter for an endlefs variety of fhell-fifh; amongfl which are many that are efteemed precious in Europe. Such as the true hammer oyfler ; of which, however, none could be obtained entire; a large indentated oyfler, and feveral others 5 but none of the common fort; panamas; cones; a fort of gigantic cockle, found alfo in the Eafl Indies; pearl fhell oyilers; and many others; feveral of which, I believe, have been hitherto unknown to the moll diligent inquirers after that branch of natural hiitory. There are, likewife, feveral forts of fea-eggs; and many very fine flar-fifh ; befides a confiderable variety of corals ; amongfl which are two red forts ; the one mofl elegantly branched, the other tubulous. And there is no lefs variety amongfl the crabs and cray fifh, which are very numerous. To which may be added, feveral forts of fponge; the fea hare, holothurl<ey and the like,"
C II A P.
chap. ix.
A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the Kings Sony performed.—The Proceffions and other Ceremonies, during the firfl Day, defcribed.—The Manner of pajfing the Night at the King's Houfe.— Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day.—ConjeElures about the Nature of it.—Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at Eooa.—Account of that Ifland, and Tranf-aclions there.
l777. T tt E were now ready to fail; but the wind being Ea(l-, July' , VV erly, we had not fufficient day light to turn through Sunday 6.    tne narrowSj either with the morning, or with the evening
flood ; the one falling out too early, and the other too late.
So that, without a leading wind, wc were under a necellity
of waiting two or three days.
I took the opportunity of this delay, to be prefent at a public folemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went laft to vifit him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th.   With a view to this, he and all the people of note, quitted our neighbourhood on Monday 7.   thc 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the folemnity was to Tuefday 8*   be exhibited.   A party of us followed them, the next morning.   We underflood, from what Poulaho had faid to us, that his fon and heir was now to be initiated into certain J privileges;
privileges; amongfl: which was, that of eating with his father ; an honour he had not, as yet, been admitted to.
We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, with a large circle of attendants fitting before him, within an inclofure fo fmall and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any fuch could be found in that neighbourhood. They were intent upon their ufual morning occupation, in preparing a bowl of kava. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out to vifit fome of our friends, and to obferve what preparations might be making for the ceremony, which Was foon to begin. About ten o'clock, the people began to aflemble, in a large area, which is before the malacc, or great houfe, to which we had been conducted the firfl time we vifited Mooa. At the end of a road, that opens into this area, flood fome men with fpears and clubs, who kept conflantly reciting, or chanting, fhort fentences, in a mournful tone, which conveyed fome idea of diflrefs, and as if they called for fome-thing. This was continued about an hour; and, in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing a yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down, before the perfons who continued repeating the fentences. While this was going on, the king and prince arrived, and feated themfelves upon the area j and wc were defired to fit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their moulders. After forming themfelves into companies, of ten or twelve perfons each, they marched acrofs the place, with a quick pace ; each company, headed by a man bearing a club or fpear, and guarded, on the right, by feveral others, armed with different weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch, clofed the rear of the
Vol. I. X x proccilion,
proceflion, in which about two hundred and fifty perfons walked.
Omai was defired by me, to afk the Chief, to what place the yams were to be thus carried, with fo much folemnity ? but, as he feemed unwilling to give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the procefllon, contrary to his inclination. We found, that they flopped before a moral or fiatooka * of one houfe Handing upon a mount, which was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they firft aflembled. Here we obferved them depofiting the yams, and making them up into bundles; but for what purpofe, we could not learn. And, as our prefence feemed to give them uneafinefs, we left them, and returned to Poulaho, who told us, we might amufe ourfelves by walking about, as nothing would be done for fome time. The fear of lofing any part of the ceremony, prevented our being long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired me to order the boat's crew not to ilir from the boat; for, as every thing would, very foon, be taboo, if any of our people, or of their own, mould be found walking about, they would be knocked down with clubs; nay mateed, that is, killed. He alfo acquainted us, that we could not be prefent at the ceremony; but that we fhould be conducted to a place, where we might fee every thing that palled. Objections were made to our drefs. We were told, that, to qualify us to be1 prefent, it was neceffary that we fhould be naked as low as the breaft, with our hats off, and our hair untied, Omai offered to conform to thefe requifites, and began toftrip ; other objections were then flatted ; fo that the exclufion was given to him equally with ourfelves.
* This is the fiatooka mentioned above by Mr. Anderfon, p. 321,
% 1 did
T Ii E   PACIFIC   O C E A N.
. I dul not much like this renriction; -and, therefore, Hole our, to fee what might now be going forward. I found very few people flirring, except thofe dreffed to attend the ceremony ; fome of whom had in their hands fmall poles, about four feet long, and to the under-part of thefe were faflened two or three other flicks, not bigger than one's linger, and about fix inches in length. Thefe men were going toward the moral juft mentioned. I took the fame road, and was, feveral-times, flopped by them, all crying-out taboo. However, I went forward, without much regarding them, till I came in fight of the moral, and of the people who were fitting before it. I was now urged, very ftrong I y to go back; and, not knowing what might be the confequence of a refufal, I complied. I had obferved, that the people, who carried the poles, palled this moral, or what I may, as well, call temple; and gueffmg, from this circum-flance, that fomething was tranfacting beyond it, which might be worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing, by making a round, for this purpofe; but I was fo clofely watched by three men, that I could not put my defign in execution. In order to fliake thefe fellows off, I returned to the ma/aee, where I had left the king, and, from thence, made an elopement a fecond time ; but I inllantly met with the fame three men; fo that it feemed, as if ihey had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid no regard to what they faid or did, till I came within fight of the king's principal Jiatooka or moral, which I have already defcribed*, before which a great number of men were fitting, being the fame perfons whom I had juft before feen pafs by the other moral, from which this was but a little diftant. Obferving, that I could watch the proceedings of this company from the
* See p. 313.
X x 2 king's
king's plantation, 1 repaired thither, very much to the fa-tisfaction of thofe who attended me.
As foon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me from the fhips, with what I had feen ; and wc took a proper flation, to watch the refult. The number of people, at the jintooka, continued to increafe for fome time; and, at length, we could fee them quit their fitting poflurc, and march off in proceflion.   They walked in pairs, one after another, every pair carrying, between them, one of the fmall poles above-mentioned, on their moulders-. We were told, that the fmall pieces of flicks, fattened to the poles, were yams ; fo that, probably, they were meant to reprefent this root emblematically.   The hindmofl men of each couple, for the moft part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if, without this additional fupport, it wrere not ftrong enough to carry the weight that - hung to it, and under which they all feemed to bend, as they walked.   This proceffion confided of one hundred and eight pairs, and all, or moft of them, men of rank. They came clofe by the fence behind which wc flood; fo that we had a full view of them.
Having waited here, till they had all paffed, we then repaired to Poulaho's houfe, and faw him going out. We could not be allowed to follow him ; but were, forthwith, conducted to the place allotted to us, which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka where the yams had been depofited in the forenoon. As we were not the only people who were excluded from being publicly prefent at this ceremony, but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of company ; and I obferved, that all the other inciofures, round the place, were filled with 7 people.
people. And, yet, all imaginable care feemed to be taken, that they mould fee as little as poflible; for the fences had not only been repaired that morning, but, in many places, raifed higher than common; fo that the tailed man could not look over them. To remedy this defect in our flation, we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence, with our knives; and, by this means, we could fee, pretty dillinctly, every thing that was tranfacting on the other fide.
On our arrival at our flation, we found two or three hundred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the road that opened into the area of the morai\ and the number continually increafed, by others joining them. At length, arrived a few men carrying fome fmall poles, and branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree; and, upon their firfl appearance, an old man feated himfelf in the road, and, with, his face toward them, pronounced a long oration in a fcri-ous tone. He then retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to erect a fmall fhed ; cm-ploying, for that purpofe, the materials above-mentioned. When they had finifhed their work, they all fquattcd down, for a moment, before it, then rofe up, and retired to the rcfl of the company. Soon after, came Poulaho's fon, preceded by four or five men, and they feated themfelves a little afide from the fhed, and rather behind it. After them, appeared twelve or fourteen women of the firfl rank, walking flowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them, a narrow piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. Thefe marched up to the prince, fquatted'down before him; and, having wrapped fome of the pieces of the cloth they had brought, round his body, they rofe up, and retired in the fame order, to fome diflancc on his left, and there feated themfelves.   Poulaho himfelf foon made his appearance,
preceded
preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreaft, and fat down on his fon's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince, then, quitting his firit pofition, went and fat down under the fhed, with his attendants ; and a confiderable number more placed themfelves on the grafs, before this royal canopy. The prince himfelf fat facing the people, with his back to the moral. This being done, three companies, of ten or a dozen men in each, flarted up from amongft the large crowd, a little after each other, and running haflily to tjie oppofite fide of the area, fat down for a few feconds; after which, they returned, in the fame manner, to their former ftations. To them fucceeded two men, each of whom held a fmall green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the prince, fitting down, for a few feconds, three different times, as they advanced; and then, turning their backs, retired in the fame manner, inclining their branches to each other as they fat. In a little time, two more repeated this ceremony.
The grand procefjlon, which I had feen march off from the other moral, now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made, from the time they had been abfent, it muft have been pretty large. As they entered the area, they marched up to the right of the fhed, and, having proftrated themfelves on the grafs, dcpofitcd their pretended burthens (the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, doling their hands, which they held before them, with the moft ferious afpect, and feated themfelves along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band were coming in, and depofiting their poles, three men, who fat under the fhed, with the prince, continued pronouncing
fcparate
fcparate fentences, in a melancholy tone. After this, a profound filence enfucd, for a little time, and then a man, who fat in the front of the area, began an oration (or prayer}, during which, at feveral different times, he went and broke one of the poles, which had been brought in by thofe who had walked in proceflion. When he had ended, the people, fitting before the fried, feparated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants paffed, and the affcmbly broke up.
Some of our party, fatisfied with what they had already feen, now returned to the fhips ; but I, and two or three more of the officers, remained at Mooa, to fee the conclu-fion of the folemnity, which was not to be rill the next day j being deiirous of omitting no opportunity, which might afford any information about the religious or the political inflitutions of this people. The fmall flicks or poles, which had been brought into the area, by thofe who walked in proceflion, being left lying on the ground, after the crowd had difperfed, I went and examined them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three fmall flicks were tied, as has fjecn related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the natives, who flood near us, that they were young yams ; infomuch that fome of our gentlemen believed them, rather than their own eyes. As I had the demonflration of my fenfes to farisfy me, that they were not real yams, it is clear, that wc ought to have underflood them, that they were only the artificial reprcfentations of thefe roots.
Our fupper was got ready about feven o'clock. It confided of fifh and yams, We might have had pork alfo ; but we did not choofe to kill a large hog, which the king had given to us for that purpofe. He fupped with us, and drank pretty freely of brandy and water j fo that he went to bed
with
'777'     with a fufficient dofe.   We paffed the night in the fame
July. 1 "
v-—m—-> houfe with him, and feveral of his attendants.
Wednef. 9. About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and converfed for about an hour, and then went to fleep again. All, but Poulaho himfelf, rofe at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after, a woman, one of thofe who generally attended upon the Chief, came in, and inquired where he was. I pointed him out to her; and fhe immediately fat down by him, and began the fame operation, which Mr. Anderfon had feen pracTifcd upon Futtafaihc, tapping or beating gently, with her clinched lifts, on his thighs. This, inftead of prolonging his fleep, as was intended, had the contrary effect; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie down.
Omai, and I, now went to vifit the prince, who had parted from us early in the evening. For he did not lodge with the king; but in apartments of his own, or, at leaft, fuch as had been allotted to him, at fome diftance from his father's houfe. We found him. with a circle of boys, or youths, about his own age, fitting before him; and an old woman, and an old man, who feemed to have the care of him, fitting behind. There were others, both men and women, employed about their neceffary affairs, in different departments ; who, probably, belonged to his houfe* hold.
From the prince wc returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and had a crowded circle before him, com-pdfed chiefly of old men. While a large bowl of kava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, fmoking hot, were brought it); the greater! part of which fell to our fhare, and was very acceptable to the boat's crew: for thefe people
eat
cat very little in a morning; efpecially the kava drinkers.
° July.
I afterward walked out, and vifited feveral other Chiefs; u—}—t and found, that all of them were taking their morning draught, or had already taken it.   Returning to the king, I found him afleep in a fmall retired hut, with two women tapping on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe again ; and then fome fifh and yams, which tailed as if they had been flewed in cocoa-nut milk, were brought to him. Of thefe he eat a large portion, and lay down once more to fleep.   I now left him, and carried to the prince a prefent of cloth, beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the fhip for the purpofe.   There was a fufficient quantity of cloth to make him a complete fuit; and he was immediately decked out with it.   Proud of his drefs, he firfl went to fhew himfelf to his father; and then conducted me to his mother; with whom wrere about ten or a dozen other women of a refpectable appearance.   Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me a prefent of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the ifland.   By this time, it was pafl noon, when, by appointment, I repaired to the palace to dinner.   Several of our gentlemen had returned, this morning, from the fhips; and we were all invited to the feafl, which was prefently ferved up, and confiflcd of two pigs and yams.   I roufed the drowfy monarch, to partake of what he had provided for our entertainmcnr. In the mean time, two mullets, and fome fhell-fifh, were brought to him, as I fuppofed, for his feparate portion. But he joined it to our fare, fat down with us, and made a hearty meal. ,
When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would foon begin ; and were flrictly enjoined not to walk out.   I had refolved, however, to peep no longer
Vol. I. Y y from
from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors themfelves, if pofflble.    With this view, I Hole out from the plantation, and walked toward the moral, the fcene of the folemnity.   I was, feveral times, defired to go back, by people whom I met; but I paid no regard to them ; and they fuffered me to pafs on.   When I arrived at the moral, I found a number of men feated on the fide of the area, on each fide of the road that leads up to it.   A few were fitting on the oppofite fide of the area; and two men in the middle of it, with their faces turned to the moral   When I got into the midft of the firfl company, I was defired to fit down ; which I accordingly'did.   Where I fat, there were lying a number of fmall bundles or parcels, compofed of cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to flicks made into the form of hand-barrows.   All the information I could get about them was, that they were taboo.   Our number kept continually im creafing; every one coming from the fame quarter. From time to time, one or another of the company turned himfelf to thofe who were coming to join us, and made a fhort fpecch ; in which I could remark that the word arekee, that is King, was generally mentioned.   One man faid fome-thing that produced burils of hearty laughter from all the crowd; others, of the fpeakers, met with public applaufc. I was, feveral times, defired to leave the place ; and, at laft, when they found that I would not ftir, after fome feeming confutation, they applied to me to uncover my moulders as theirs were. With this requcft I complied; and then they feemed to be no longer uneafy at my prefence.
I fat a full hour, without any thing more going forward, befide what I have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came in, as they had done the day before.   The prince, being placed under the fhed, after
his
his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat, came, repeating fomething ferioufly, and put them about him. The affemblcd people now began their operations; and firft, three companies ran backward and forward acrofs the area, as defcribed in the account of the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men, who fat in the middle of the area, made a fhort fpeech or prayer; and then the whole body, amongft whom I had my place, ftarted up, and ran and feated themfelves before the fhed under which the prince, and three or four men, were fitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the company, who feemed very afliduous to ferve me. By his means, I was placed in fuch a fituation, that, if I had been allowed to make ufe of my eyes, nothing that paffed could have efcaped me. But it was neceffary to fit with down-caft looks, and demure as maids.
Soon after, the proceflion came in, as on the day before; each two perfons bearing on their fhoulders a pole, round the middle of which, a cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. Thefe were depofited with ceremonies fimilar to thofe obferved on the preceding day. This firft proceflion was followed by a fecond ; the men compofing which, brought bafkets, fuch as are ufually employed by this people to carry pro-vifions in, and made of palm leaves. Thefe were followed by a third proceffion, in which were brought different kinds of fmall fifh ; each fixed at the end of a forked flick. The bafkets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the Chief Prieft, and who fat on the prince's right-hand, without the fhed. He held each in his hand, while he made a fhort fpeech or prayer j then laid it down, and called for another, repeating the fame words as before; and thus he went through the whole number of bafkets.   The fifli were
Y y 2 prefented.
prefented, one by one, on the forked flicks, as they came in, to two men, who fat on the left; and who, till now, held green branches in their hands. The firfl fifh they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. When the third was prefented, a flout looking man, who fat behind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and made a match at it ; as alfo did the other two, at the very fame time. Thus they feemed to contend for every fifh that was prefented; but as there were two hands againfc one, befides the advantage of fituation, the man behind got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his hold, till the fifli was torn out of his hand; and what little remained in ir, he fhook out behind him. The others laid what they got, on the right and left alternately. At length, cither by accident or defign, the man behind got poffeflion of a whole fifh, without cither of the other two fo much as touching it. At this, the word mareeai, which fignifies very good, or well done, was uttered in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It feemed, that he had performed now all that was expected from him; for he made no attempt upon the few fifli that came after. Thefe fifli, as alfo the bafkets, were all delivered, by the perfons who brought them in, fitting; and, in the fame order and manner, the fmall poles, which the firfl proceflion carried, had been laid upon the ground.
The laft proceflion being clofed, there was fome fpeak- • ing or praying, by different perfons. Then, on fomefignal being given, we all ftarted up, ran feveral paces to the left, and fat down with our backs to the prince, and the few who remained with him. I was defired not to look behind me. However, neither this injunction, nor the remembrance of Lot's wife, difcouraged me from facing about.
s I now
! now faw that the prince had turned his face to the moral. But this laft movement had brought fo many people between him and me, that I could not perceive what was doing. I was afterward affured, that, at this very time, the prince was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father; which, till now, had never been permitted to him; a piece of roafted yam being prefented to each of them for this purpofe. This was the more probable, as we had been told, before-hand, that this was to happen during the folemnity ; and as all the people turned their backs to them, at this time, which they always do when their monarch eats.
After fome little time, wc all faced about, and formed a femicircle before the prince, leaving a large open fpace between us. Prcfcntly there appeared fome men coming toward us, two and two, bearing large flicks, or poles, upon their moulders, making a noifc that might be called fing-ing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had got clofe up to us, they made a fhew of walking very fad, without proceeding a fingle (lep. Immediately after, three or four men darted up from the crowd, with large llicks in their hands, who ran toward thofe new-comers. The latter inflantly threw down the poles from their moulders, and fcampered off; and the others attacked the poles; and, having beat them mod unmercifully, returned to their places. As the pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is ufual here in wredling; and, not long after, a number of (lout fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. Thefe were oppofed by a party, who came from the oppofite fide almoft at the fame indant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and then retired, each to their own fide. After
this,
this, there were wreftling and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men feated themfelves before the prince, and made fpceches, addreffed, as I thought, entirely to him. With this the folemnity ended, and the whole af-fembly broke up.
I now went and examined the feveral bafkets which had been prefented; a curiofity that I was not allowed before to indulge ; becaufe every thing was then taboo. But the folemnity being now over, they became, fimply, what I found them to be, empty bafkets. So- that, whatever they were fuppofed to contain, was emblematically reprefentcd. And fo, indeed, was every other thing which had been brought in proceflion, except the fifli.
Wc endeavoured, in vain, to find out the meaning, not-only of the ceremony in general, which is called Natche, but of its different parts. We feldom got any other anfwer to our inquiries, but taboo; a word, which, I have before obferved, is applied to many other things. But, as the prince was, evidently, the principal perfon concerned in it; and as we had been told by the king, ten days before the celebration of the Natche, that the people would bring in yams for him and his fon to eat together; and as he even defcribed fome part of the ceremony, we concluded, from what he had then faid, and from what we now faw, that an oath of allegiance, if I may fo exprefs myfclf, or folemn promife, was, on this occafion, made to the prince, as the immediate fucceffor to the regal dignity, to Hand by him, and to furnifli him with the feveral articles that were here emblematically reprefentcd. This feems the more probable, as all the principal people of the ifland, whom we had ever feen, affifled in the proceffions. But, be this as it may, the whole 6 was
was conducted with a great deal of myftcrious folemnity ; and, that there was a mixture of religion in the inflitution, was evident, not only from the place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. Our theft and deportment had never been called in queftion, upon any former occafion whatever. Now, it was expected that we mould be uncovered as low as the waift ; that our hair mould be loofe, and flowing over our fhouldcrs; that we fhould, like themfelves, fit crofs-legged ; and, at times, in the moft humble pofture, with down-caft eyes, and hands locked together; all which rcquifitcs were moft devoutly obferved by the whole aflembly. And, laftly, every one was excluded from the folemnity, but the principal people, and thofe who aflifted in the celebration, All thefe circumftances were to me a fufficient teftimony, that, upon this occafion, they confidcrcd themfelves as acting under the immediate infpection of a Supreme Being.
The prefent Natche may be confidered, from the above acr count of it, as merely figurative. For the fmall quantity of yams, which we faw the firft day, could not be intended as a general contribution ; and, indeed, we wTcre given to un-derftand, that they were a portion confecrated to the Otojat or Divinity. But we were informed, that, in about three months, there would be performed, on the fame account, a far more important and grander folemnity ; on which occafion, not only the tribute of Tongataboo, but that of Hapaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other iflands, would be brought to the Chief, and confirmed more awfully, by facrificing ten human victims from amongft the inferior fort of people. A honid folemnity indeed ! and which is a moft fignificafit inftance of the influence of gloomy and ignorant fupcrfti-tion, over the minds of one of the moft benevolent and humane
mane nations upon earth. On inquiring into the reafons of fo barbarous a practice, they only raid, that it was a neceffary part of the Natche, and that, if they omitted it, the Deity would certainly deflroy their king.
Before the affembly broke up, the day was far fpent; and as we were at fome diftance from the mips, and had an intricate navigation to go through, we were in hafte to fet out from Mooa. When I tooMeave of Poulaho, he pre fled me much to flay till the next day, to be prefent at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother in-law to the king, had lately died ; and her corpfe had, on account of the Natche, been carried on board a canoe that lay in the lagoon. Foulaho told me, that, as foon as he had paid the laft offices to her, he would attend me to Eooa ; but, if I did not wait, that he would follow me thither. I underftood, at the fame time, that, if it had not been for the death of this woman, moft of the Chiefs would have accompanied us to that ifland ; where, it feems, all of them have poffeftions. I would gladly have waited to fee this ceremony alfo, had not the tide been now favourable for the mips to get through the narrows. The wind, befides, which, for feveral days paft, had been very boifterous, was now moderate and fettled j and to have loft this opportunity, might have detained us a fortnight longer. But what wTas dc-cifivc againft my waiting, wc underftood that the funeral ceremonies would laft five days, which was too long a time, as the mips lay in fuch a fituation, that I could not get to fea at pleafure. I, however, affurcd the king, that, if we did not fail, I fhould certainly vifit him again the next day. And fo we all took leave of him, and fet out for the fhips, where we arrived about eight o'clock in the evening.
J had
I had forgot to mention, that Omai was prefent at this fecond day's ceremony, as well as myfelf; but we were not together; nor did I know that he was there, till it was almoft over. Pie afterward told me, that, as foon as the king faw that I had flolen out from the plantation, he fent feveral people, one after another, to defire me to come back. Probably, thefe meffengers were not admitted to the place where I was ; for I faw nothing of them. At laft, intelligence was brought to the Chief, that I had actually (tripped, in conformity to their cuflom; and then he told Omai, that he might be prefent alfo, if he would comply with all the neceffary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required of him, but to conform to the cuflom of his own country. Accordingly, he was furnifhed with a proper drefs, and appeared at the ceremony as one of the natives. It is likely, that one reafon of our being excluded at firfl, was an apprehcnfion, that we would not fubmit to the rc-quifites to qualify us to afllfl.
While I was attending the Natche at Mooa, I ordered the horfes, bull and cow, and goats, to be brought thither; thinking that they would be fafcr there, under the eyes of the Chiefs, than at a place that would be, in a manner, defer ted, the moment after our departure. Befides the above-mentioned animals, we left, with our friends here, a young boar, and three young fows, of the Englifli breed. They were exceedingly defirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve their own breed, which is rather fmall. Fccnou alfo got from us two rabbits, a buck and a doe ; and, before we failed, we were told, that young ones had been already produced. If the cattle fucceed, of which I make no doubt, it will be a vafl acquifition to thefe
Vol. I, Z z iflands;
iflands;  and, as Tongataboo is a fine level country, the v-( horfes cannot but be ufeful.
Thurfdayio. On the ioth, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and, with a Heady gale at South Eaft, turned through the channel, between the fmall hies called Makka-haa and Monooafai; it being much wider than the channel between the laft mentioned ifland and Pangimodoo. The flood fet ftrong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up to the lagoon, where the flood from the Eaftward meets that from the Weft. This, together with the indraught of the lagoon, and of the fhoals before it, caufeth ftrong riplings and whirlpools. To add to thefe dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a cable; fo that there is no anchorage, except clofe to the rocks, where we meet with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark fand. But then, here, a fhip would be expofed to the whirlpools. This fruftrated the defign which I had formed, of coming to an anchor, as foon as we were through the narrows, and of making an excuriion to fee the funeral. I chofe rather to lofe that ceremony, than to leave the fhips in a fituation, in which I did not think them fafe. We continued to ply to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or lofing an inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable flant, we got into the Eaftern tide's influence. We expected, there, to find the ebb to run ftrong to the Eaftward in our favour; but it proved fo inconfiderable, that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed us, that moft of the water, which flows into the lagoon, comes from the North Weft, and returns the fame way. About five in the afternoon, finding that we could not get to fea before it was 4 , dark,
dark, I came to an anchor, under the fhore of Tongataboo, jjj> in forty-five fathoms water; and about two cables length \—>— from the reef, that runs along that fide of the ifland. The Difcovery dropped anchor under our flern ; but before the anchor took hold, fhe drove off the bank, and did not recover it till after midnight.
Wc remained at this flation, till eleven o'clock, the next Friday n. day, when we weighed, and plyed to the Eaftward. But it was ten at night, before we weathered the Eafl end of the iiland, and were enabled to flretch away for Middleburg, or Eooa (as it is called by the inhabitants), where we anchored, at eight o'clock, the next morning, in forty fathoms water, Saturday u« over a bottom of fand, interfperfed with coral rocks \ the extremes of the ifland extending, from North, 4.00 EaH, to South, 220 Weft; the high land of Eooa, South, 45° IJaftj and Tongataboo, from North, 70* Wefl, to North, iQ°Wefl; diftant about half a mile from the fhore ; being nearly the fame place where I had my flation in 1773* and then named by me, Englifi Road.
We had no fooncr anchored, than Taoofa the Chief, and feveral other natives, vifited us on board, and feemed to rejoice much at our arrival. This Taoofa * had been my Tayot when I was here, during my laft voyage ; confequently, we were not ftrangers to each other. In a little time, I went afhore with him, in fearch of frefh water; the procuring of which, was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had been told, at Tongataboo, that there was here a flream, running from the hills into the fea; but this was not the cafe now. I was firft conducted to a brackifli fpring, between Jow and high water mark, amongft rocks, in the
* In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls the only Chief he then met with, at this place, Tioany.   See Vol. i. p. 192.
Z z 2 cove
cove where wc landed, and where no one would ever have thought of looking for what we wanted. However, I believe, the water of this fpring might be good, were it poflible to take it up, before the tide mixes with it. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little way into the ifland; where, in a d$ep chafm, we found very good water; which, at the expencc of fome time and trouble, might be conveyed down to the fhore, by means of fpouts or troughs, that could be made with plantain leaves, and the item of the tree. But, rather than to undertake that tedious tafk, I rcfolvcd to reft contented with the fupply the fhips had got at Tongataboo.
Before I returned on board, I fet on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of the former, we could procure but few ; but, of the latter, plenty. I put afhore, at this ifland, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed of fheep; intrufting them to the care of Taoofa, who feemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had given them, as before-mentioned, flighted the prefent. Eooa, not having, as yet, got any dogs upon it, feems to be a properer place than Tongataboo for the rearing of fheep.
As we lay at anchor, this ifland bore a very different afpect from any we had lately feen, and formed a moft beautiful landfcape. It is higher than any wc had paffed, fince leaving New Zealand (as Kao may juftly be reckoned an immenfe rock), and from its top, which is almoft flat, declines very gently toward the fea. As the other ifles, of this duller, are level, the eye can difcover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rifing gently upward, prefents us with an extenfive profpeet, where groves of trees are only interfperfed at irregular diftances, in
beautiful
Beautiful diforder. and the reft covered with grafs.   Near '777-
.      - July.
the fhore,  again, it is quite fhaded with various trees, 1--—«'
amongft which are the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of our flation, was one of the moft extenfive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever feen.
The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excur- Sunday 13. fion to the higheft part of the ifland, which was a little to the right of our ihips, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up, we crofled a deep valley, the bottom and fides of which, though compofed of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now about two or three hundred feet above the level of the lea, and yet, even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities, which ufually diverfify the furface of this fubftance within the reach of the tide. Indeed, wc found the fame coral, till we began to approach the fum-mits of the higheft hills ; and, it was remarkable, that thefe were chiefly compofed of a yellowifh, foft, fandy ftone. The foil, there, is, in general, a reddiih clay ; which, in many places, feemed to be very deep. On the moft elevated part of the whole ifland, we found a round platform, or mount of earth, fupported by a wall of coral ftones ; to bring which, to fuch a height, muft have coft much labour. Our guides told us, that this mount had been creeled by order of their Chief; and that they, fometimes, met there to drink kava. They called it Etchcc ; by wrhich name, an erection, which we had feen at Tongataboo, as already mentioned, was diftinguifhed. Not many paces from it, was a fpnng or excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running ftream, which, we were told, found its way to the £;:<,, when the rains were copious.   We alfo met
with:
with water, in many little holes; and, no doubt, great plenty might be found, by digging.
From the elevation, to which we had afcended, we had a full view of the whole ifland, except a part of the South point. The South Eafl: fide, from which the higheft hills, we were now upon, are not far diftant, rifes with very great inequalities, immediately from the fea; fo that the plains and meadows, of which there are here fome of great extent, lie all on the North Weft fide ; and, as they arc adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landfcapc, in every point of view. While I was furveying this delightful prof peel:, I could not help flattering myfelf with the pleafing idea, that fome future navigator may, from the fame flation, behold thefe meadows flocked with cattle, brought to thefe iflands by the fhips of England ; and that the completion of this fingle benevolent purpofe, independently of all other confiderations, would fufficiently mark to poflerity, that our voyages had not been ufelefs to the general intercfls of humanity. Befides the plants common on the other neighbouring iflands, we found, on the height, a fpecies of acrojlicum, melajioma, and fern tree; with a few other ferns and plants, not common lower down.
Our guides informed us, that all, or mofl of the land, on this ifland, belonged to the great Chiefs of Tongataboo; and that the inhabitants were only tenants, or vaffals, to them. Indeed, this feemed to be the cafe at all the other neighbouring iiles, except Annamooka, where there were fome Chiefs, who feemed to act with fome kind of independence. Omai, who was a great favourite with Feenou, and thefe people in general, was tempted with the offer of
being
being made Chief of this iiland, if he would have flaid amongfl: them j and it is not clear to me, that he would not have been glad to flay, if the fcheme had met with my approbation. 1 own, I did difapprovc of it; but not becaufe I thought that Omai would do better for himfelf in his own native ifle.
On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, flruck one of their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or, as others faid, fractured his fkull, and then broke his thigh with the fame ; when our men interpofed. He had no figns of life, when carried toa neighbouring houfe; but afterward recovered a little. On my afking the reafon of fo fevere a treatment, we were informed, that he had been difcovered in a fituation rather indelicate, with a woman who was taboo1 d. We, however, underftood, that fhe was no otherwife tabooed, than by belonging to another perfon, and rather fuperior in rank to her gallant. From this circumftance, we had an opportunity of obferving, how thefe people treat fuch infidelities. But the female finner has, by far, the fmaller fhare of pu-nifhment for her mifdemeanor; as they told us, that fhe would only receive a flight beating.
The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and fowed the Monday 14* feeds of melons, and other vegetables in the Chief's plantation. I had fome encouragement, indeed, to flatter my-felf, that my endeavours of this kind would not be fruit-lefs; for, this day, there was ferved up at my dinner, a difh of turnips, being the produce of the feeds I had left here during my laft voyage.
1 had-
1777-       I had fixed upon the 15th for failing, till Taoofa preffed —.j me to flay a day or two longer, to receive a prefent he had a d*j 15. prCparecj for me>   This reafon, and the daily expectation of feeing fome of our friends from Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure.
Wednef, 16.     Accordingly, the next day, I received the Chief's prefent;
confiding of two fmall heaps of yams, and fome fruit, which feemed to be collected by a kind of contribution, as at the other iiles. On this occafion, moil of the people of the ifland had affembled at the place; and, as we had experienced on fuch numerous meetings amongll their neighbours, gave us not a little trouble to prevent them from pilfering whatever they could lay their hands upon. "We were entertained with cudgelling, wreilling, and boxing-matches; and in the latter, both male and female combatants exhibited. It was intended to have finifhed the fhew with the bomaiy or night-dance; but an accident either put a total flop to it, or, at leafl, prevented any of us from flaying afhore to fee it. One of my people, walking a very little way, was furrounded by twenty or thirty of the natives, who knocked him down, and flripped him of every thing he had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately feized two canoes, and a large hog; and infilled on Taoofa's eaufing the clothes to be reflored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The Chief feemed much concerned at what had happened; and forthwith took the neceffary flcps to fatisfy me. This affair fo alarmed the affembled people, that mofl of them fled. However, when they found that I took no other meafures to revenge the infult, they returned. It was not long before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a fhirt and a pair of trowfers
2 re Ho red,
reflored.   The remainder of the flolen goods not coming in before night, I was under a neceflity of leaving them to go ^—-r aboard ; for the fea run fo high, that it was with the greatefl difficulty the boats could get out of the creek with daylight, much lefs in the dark.
The next morning, I landed again, having provided my- ThurA? v -felf with a prefent for Taoofa, in return for what lie had given me. As it was early, there were but few people at the landing-place, and thofe few not without their fears. But on my defiring Omai to affurc them, that we meant no harm; and, in confirmation of this affurance, having reflored the canoes, and releafed the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they refumed their ufual gaiety; and, prefently, a large circle was formed, in which the Chief, and all the principal men of the ifland, took their places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in5 but, as they had been torn off the man's back, by pieces, they were not worth carrying on board. Taoofa, on receiving my prefent, fhared it with three or four other Chiefs, keeping only a fmall part for himfelf. This prefent exceeded their expectation fo greatly, that one of the Chiefs, a vene- * table old man, told me, that they did not deferve it, con-fidcring how little they had given to me, and the ill treatment one of my people had met with. I remained with them, till they had finifhed their bowl of kava; and having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's fervants, by whom I fent, as a parting mark of my cflcem and regard for that Chief, a piece of bar iron ; being as valuable a prefent as any I could make to him.
Vol. F. 3 a Soon>
Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at South Eafl, flood out to fea; and then Taoofa, and a few other natives, that were in the fhip, left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found, that the cable had fuffered conlidcrably by the rocks ; fo that the bottom, in this road, is not to be depended upon. Befides this, we experienced, that a prodigious fwell rolls in there from the South Wefl.
Wc had not been long under fail, before we obferved a failing canoe coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had anchored. Some hours after, a fmall canoe, conducted by four men, came off to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were, flill, at no great diflancc from the land. Thefe men told us, that the failing canoe, which we had feen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the people of Eooa, to furnifh us with a certain number of hogs ; and that, in two days, the king, and other Chiefs, would be with us. They, therefore, defired we would return to our former flation. There was no reafon to doubt the truth of what thefe men told us. Two of them had actually come from Tongataboo, in the failing canoe ; and they had no view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. However, as we were now clear of the land, it was not a fulficient inducement to bring me back; efpecially as we had, already, on board, a flock of frefh provi-fions, fufficient, in all probability, to laft during our paffage to Otaheite. Befides Taoofa's prefent, we had got a good quantity of yams at Eoca, in exchange chiefly for fmall nails. Our fupply of hogs was alfo confidcrably increafed there -, though, doubtlefs, we mould have got many more, if the Chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whofe property they moftly were.   At the approach of night, thefe
men,
men, finding that we would not return, left us; as alfo fome others, who had come ofF in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, and fhaddocks, to exchange them for what they could get; the cagernefs of thefe people to get into their poffefTion more of our commodities, inducing them to follow the fhips out to fea, and to continue their intercourfe: with us to the laft moment.
3 A 0,
C II A P,
chap. x*
Advantages derived from vifting the Friendly Ifands.— Beft Articles for Traffic.—Refrefments that may be procured*—The Number of the Ifands, and their Names. —KeppeT s and Bofcawens Ifands belong to them.—Account of Vavaoo—of Hamoa—of Feejee.—Voyages of the Natives in their Canoes.—Difficulty of procuring exacl Information,—Perfons of the Inhabitants of both Sexes.—Their Colour.—Difeafes.—Their general Character.—Manner of wearing their Hair—of puncturing their Bodies.—Their Clothing and Ornaments.— Perfonal Cleanlinefs,
1 g 1 H U S we took leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their A inhabitants, after a flay of between two and three months; during which time, we lived together in the mofl cordial friendfhip. Some accidental differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propenfity to thieving; but, too often, encouraged by the negligence of our own people. But thefe differences were never attended with any fatal confequences; to prevent which, all my meafures were directed ; and, I believe, few, on board our mips, left our friends here without fome regret. The time, employed amongfl them, was not thrown away. We expended very little of our fea provifions ; fubfifling, in general, upon the produce of the iflands, while we ftaid; and carrying away with us a quantity of refrefhments fufficient
to
T II E   PACIFIC   OC E A N.
to laft till our arrival at another flation, where we could depend upon a frefh. fupply. I was not forry, befides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of thefe good people, by leaving the ufeful animals, before-mentioned, among them ; and, at the fame time, thofe defigned for Otaheite, received frefh ftrength in the paftures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received, by touching here, were very great; and I had the additional fatisfaction to reflect, that they were received, without retarding, one moment, the profecution of the great object of our voyage ; the feafon, for proceeding to the North, being, as has been already obferved, loft, before I took the refolution of bearing away for thefe iflands.
But, befides the immediate advantages, which both the natives of the Friendly Iflands, and ourfelves, received by this vifit, future navigators from Europe, if any fuch fhould ever tread our fleps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philofophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new fltuations, and to fpeculate on Angular, but faithful reprefentations of the perfons, the cuftoms, the arts, the religion, the government, and the language of uncultivated man, in remote and frefh difcovered quarters of the globe, will, perhaps, find matter of amufement, if not of inftruc-tion, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him, concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. I fhall fufpend my narrative, of the progrefs of the voyage, while I faithfully relate what I had opportunities of collecting on thefe feveral topics.
We found, by our experience, that the beft articles for traffic, at thefe iflands, are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets; nails, from the large ft fpikc down to tenpenny
7 ones.;
ones; rafps; files; and knives, are much fought after. Red cloth ; and linen, both white and coloured ; looking-glaffes, and beads, are alfo in eftimation; but, of the latter, thofe that are blue, are preferred to all others; and white ones are thought the leaft valuable. A firing of large blue beads would, at any time, purchafe a hog. But it muft be obferved, that fuch articles as are merely ornaments, may be highly eftecmed at one time, and not fo at another. When we firft arrived at Annamooka, the people there would hardly take them in exchange even for fruit; but when Feenou- came, this great man fet the fafhion, and brought them into vogue, till they rofe in their value to what I have juft mentioned.
In return for the favourite commodities which I have enumerated, all the refreshments may be procured that the illands produce. Thefe are, hogs, fowls, fifh, yams, breadfruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, fugar-cane, and, in general, every fuch fupply as can be met with at Otaheite, or any of the Society Illands. The yams of the Friendly iflands are excellent, and, when grown to perfection, keep very well at fea. But their pork, bread-fruit, and plantains, though far from defpicable, are, ncvcrthelefs, much inferior in quality to the fame articles at Otaheite, and in its neighbourhood.
Good water, which fhips, on long voyages, ftand fo much in need of, is fcarce at thefe iflands. It may be found, it is true, on them all; but, flill, either in too inconfiderablc quantities, or in fituatious too inconvenient, to ferve the purpofes of navigators. However, as the iflands afford plenty of provifions, and particularly of cocoa-nuts, fhips may make a tolerable fhift with fuch water as is to be got; and if one is not over-nice, there will be no want. While we lay at anchor, under Kotoo, on our return from Hapaee,
fome
fome people, from Kao, informed us, that there was a fire am of water there, which, pouring down from the mountain, runs into the fea, on the South Weft fide of the iiland ; that is, on the fide that faces Toofoa, another iiland remarkable for iis height, as alfo for having a confiderable volcano in it, which, as has been already mentioned, burnt violently all the time that we were in its neighbourhood. It may be worth while for future navigators, to attend to this intelligence about the flream of water at Kao; efpecially as we learned that there was anchorage on that part of the coaft. The black flone, of which the natives of the Friendly Illands make their hatchets, and other tools, we were informed, is the production of Toofoa.
Under the denomination of Friendly Illands, wtc mull include, not only the group at Hapaee, which I vifited, but alfo all thofe illands, that have been difcovered nearly under the fame meridian, to the North, as well as fome others that have never been feen, hitherto, by any European navigators; but are under the dominion of Tongataboo, which, though not the largeff, is the capital, and feat of government.
According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extenfive. Above one hundred and fifty iflands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made ufe of bits of leaves to afcertain their number ; and Mr. Anderfon, with his ufual diligence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are faid to be high, or hilly, fuch as Toofoa, and Eooa; and thirty-five of them large. Of thefe, only three were feen this voyage; Ma-pace (which is confidercd by the natives as one iiland), Tongataboo, and Eooa: of the fize of the unexplored thirty-two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they mull 2 be
be all larger than Annamooka; whiclrthofe, from whom we had our information, ranked amongfl: the fmaller ifles. Sonic, or indeed feveral, of this latter denomination, are mere fpots, without inhabitants. Sixty-one of thefe iflands have their proper places and names marked upon our chart of the Friendly Iflands, and upon the fketch of the harbour of Tongataboo, to both which I refer the reader. But it muff be left to future navigators, to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean, the exact fituation and fize of near a hundred more iflands in this neighbourhood, which we had not an opportunity to explore; and whofe exiftence we only learnt from the teftimony of our friends, as above-mentioned. On their authority, the following lift of them was made; and it may fcrve as a ground-work for farther inveftigation.
Names of the Friendly Iflands, and others, in that Neighbourhood, mentioned by the Inhabitants of Annamooka, Hapaee, and Tongataboo*.
Komooefceva,	Noogoofaeeou,	Novababoo,
Kollalona,	Koreemou,	Golabbe,
Felongaboonga,	Failemaia,	Vagaeetoo,
Kovereetoa,	Koweeka,	Gowakka,
Fonogooeatta,	Ko n ookoo nam a,	Goqfooy
Modooanoogoo noo^	-Kooonoogoo,	Mafanna,
goo*	Geenageena,	Kolloooa,
Tongooa,	Kowourogoheefo,	Tabanna,
Koooa,	Kottejeea,	Motooha,
Fonooa eeka,	Kokabba,	Looakabba,
* Thofe iflands, which the natives reprefentcd as large ones, are diftinguifhed in Italics.
Vavaoo,
Vavaoo,	Boloa,	Toofanaetollo,
Koloa,	Toofagga,	Toofanaclaa,
Fafeene,	Loogoobahanga,	Kogoopoloo,
Taoonga,	Taoola,	liavaceeekey
Kobakeemotoo,	Manecnccra,	Tootooeela,
Kongahoonoho,	Fonooaooma,	Manooka,
Komalla,	Fonooonnconne,	Lefiainga,
Konoababoo,	WegafFa,	Pappataia,
Konnctalle,	Fooamotoo,	Loubatta,
Komongoraffa,	Fonooalaiee,	Oloo,
Kotoolooa,	Tattahoi,	Takounove,
Kologobecle,	Latte,	Kopaoo,
Kollokolahee,	Neuafo,	Kovooeea,
Matagcefaia,	Fcejee,	Kongairceh.ee,
Mallajce,	Ooivaia,	Tafcedoowaia,
Mallalahec,	Kongaiarahoi,	Jlamoa,
Gonoogoolaice,	Kotoobooo,	Necootabootaboo,
Toon aba i,	KomottCy	Fotoona,
Konncvy,	Komoarra,	Vytooboo,
Konnevao,	Kolalva,	Lotooma,
Moggodoo,	Kofoona,	Tog gel no,
Looamoggo,	Konnagillclaivoo,	Talava.
I h:.ve not the leafl; doubt, that Prince William's Illands, difcovered, and fo named by Tafman, are included in the foregoing lift. For while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives told me, that, three or four days fail from thence, to the North Weft, there was a cluftcr of fmall iflands, con-filling of upward of forty. This fituation correfponds very well with that afligncd, in the accounts we have of Tafman's voyage, to his Prince William's Iflands *'.
•* Tafman faw eighteen 01 twenty of thefe fmall iflands, every one of which was furrounded with fand:;, flioals, and rocks.    They are alfo called, in fome chart:;, Vol. Ii 3 B Hemjk'wk'i
']J\y' We have alio very good authority to believe, that KeppePs ^—and Bofcawen's Illands, two of Captain Wallis's difcoveries in 1765, are comprehended in our lift; and that they are not only well known to thefe people, bur are under the fame fovercign. The following information feemed to me deci-five as to this. Upon my inquiring, one day, of Poulaho the king, in what manner the inhabitants of Tongataboo had acquired the knowledge of iron, and from what quarter they had procured a fmall iron tool, which I had feen amongft them, when I firft vifited their ifland, during my former voyage, he informed me, that they had received this iron from an iiland, which he called Necootabootaboo. Carrying my inquiries further, I then defired to know, whether he had ever been informed, from whom the people of Nceootabootaboo had got it. I found him perfectly acquainted with its hiftory. He faid, that one of thofe iftanders fold a club, for five nails, to a fhip which had touched there; and that thefe five nails afterward were fent to Tongataboo. He added, that this was the firft iron known amongft them ; fo that, what Tafman left of that metal, muft have been worn out, and forgot long ago. I was very particular in my inquiries about the fituation, fize, and form of the ifland; cxprefling my defire to know when this fhip had touched there; how long ilie itaid ; and whether any more were in company. The leading facts appeared to be frefh in his memory. He faid, that there was but one fhip; that fhe did not come to an anchor, but left the iiland after her boat had been on fhore. And from many circumftances, which he mentioned, it could not be many years fince this
fleemfkirk,s Banks. Sec Dalrymplc's Collection of Voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. p. 83. j and Campbell's edition of Harris's, Vol. i. p. 325.
had
hail happened. According to his information, there are two iflands near each other, which he himfelf had been at. The one he defcribed as high, and peaked like Kao, and he called it Kootahee; the other, where the people of the fhip landed, called Neeootabootaboo, he reprefentcd as much lower. He added, that the natives of both are the fame fort of people with thofe of Tongataboo; built their canoes in the fame manner; that their iflands had hogs and fowls; and, in general, the fame vegetable productions. The fhip, fo pointedly referred to, in this convcrfation, could be no other than the Dolphin; the only fingle fhip from Europe, as far as we have ever learned, that had touched, of late years, at any ifland in this part of the Pacific Ocean, prior to my former vifit of the Friendly Iflands *.
But the moft confiderable iflands in this neighbourhood, that wc now heard of (and wc heard a great deal about them), are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Fecjce. Each of thefe was reprefentcd to us as larger than Tongataboo. No European, that we know of, has, as yet, feen any one of them. Tafman, indeed, lays down in his chart, an ifland nearly in the fituation where I fuppofe Vavaoo to be; that is, about the latitude of 19° f.   But, then, that ifland is there marked
as
• Sec Captain Wallis's Voyage, in Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. i. p. 492—* 494. Captain Wallis there calls both thefe iflands high cues. But the fuperior height of one of them may be inferred, from his faying, that it appears like a fugar-loaf. This ftrongly marks its lefemblancc to Kao. From comparing Poulaho's intelligence to Captain Cook, with Captain WalJis's account, it (certs to be pail all doubt, that Bofcawen's Ifland is our Kootahee, and Keppel's Ifland our Neeootaboo-tr.boo. The lull is one of the large iflands marked in the foregoing lift. The reader, who has been already apprized of the variations of our people in writing down what the natives pronounced, will hardly doubt that Kottijeea and Kootahee are the fame.
•j- Neither Dalrymple nor Campbell, in their accounts of Tafman's vovage, take .any particular notice of his having feen fuch an ifland.   The chart here referred to,
3 B 2 by
as a very fmall one ;  whereas Vavaoo, according to the united teftimony of all our friends at Tongataboo, exceeds the fize of their own ifland, and has high mountains. I fhould certainly have vifited ft; and have accompanied Feenou from Hapaee, if he had not then difcouraged me, by reprefenting it to be very inconfiderable, and without any harbour.   But Poulaho, the king, afterward affured me, that it was a large ifland; and that it not only produced every thing in common with Tongataboo, but had the peculiar advantage of poffeffing feveral flreams of frefh water, with as good a harbour as that which we found at his capital iiland.   He offered to attend me, if I would vifit it; adding, that, if I did not find every thing agreeing with his repre-fentation, I might kill him.   I had not the lead doubt of the truth of his intelligence; and was fatisfied that Feenou,   from fome intereflcd view,   attempted to deceive me.
Flamoa, which is alfo under the dominion of Tongataboo, lies two days fail North Weft from Vavaoo. It was defcribed to me, as the largeft of all their iflands ; as affording, harbours and good water; and as producing, in abundance, every article of refrefhment found at the places we vifited. Poulaho, himfelf, frequently re fides there. It fhould feem, that the people of this ifland arc in high eftimation at Tongataboo; for we were told, that fome of the fongs and dances, with which we were entertained, had been copied from theirs; and we faw fome houfes, faid to be built after their fafhion.   Mr. Anderfon, always inquifitive about fuch
by Captain Cook, is, probably, Mr. Dalrymple's, in his Collection of Voyage?,, where Tafman's track is marked accurately ; and feveral very fmall fpots of land are laid down in the fituation here mentioned.
matters,
matters, learnt the three following words of the dialed: of Hamoa.
Tamolao *, a ch ief m an. Tamaety, a chief woman. Solle, a.common man.
Fccjee,
* In two or three preceding notes, extracts have been made from the Lettres Edi-fantes & Curuufes, as marking a ftrong refemblancc between fome of the cuftoms of the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands, and thofe which Captain Cook defcribes as prevailing at an immenfe diftance, in the iflands which he vifited in the South Pacific Ocean. Poffibly, however, the prefumption, arifing from this refemblancc, that all thefe iflands were peopled by the fame nation, or tribe, may be refifted, under the plauflble pretence, that cuftoms very fimilar prevail amongft very diftant people, without inferring any other common fource, befides the general principles of human nature, the fame in all ages, and every part of the globe. The reader, perhaps, will not think this pretence applicable to the matter before us, if he attends to the following very obvious diftineiion : Thofe cuftoms which have their foundation in wants that are common to the whole human fpecies, and which are confined to the contrivance of means to relieve thofe wants, may well be fuppofed to bear a ftrong refemblancc, without warranting the conclufton, that they who ufe them have copied each other, or have derived them from one common fource ; human fagacity being the fame every where, and the means adapted to the relief of any particular natural want, efpecially in countries fimilarly uncultivated, being but few. Thus the moft diftant tribes, as widely feparated as Terra del Fuego is from the iflands Eaft of Kamtfchatka, may, both of them, produce their fire, by rubbing two fticks upon each other, without giving us the leaft foundation for fuppofing, that either of them imitated the other, or derived the invention from a fource of inftruclion common to both. But this feems not to be the cafe, with regard to thofe cuftoms to which no general principle of human nature has given birth, and which have their eftabliftiment folely from the endlefs varieties of local whim, and national fafhion. Of this latter kind, thofe cuftoms obvioufly arc, that belong both to the North, and to the South Pacific Iflands, from which, we would infer, that they were originally one nation j and the men of Mangeea, and the men of the New Philippines, who pay their refpects to a perfon whom they mean to honour, by rubbing his hand over their faces, bid fair to have learnt their mode of falutation in the lame fchool. But if this obfcrvation fhould not have removed the doubts of the fecptical refiner, probably he will hardly venture to perfift in denying the identity of race, contended for in the prefent inftance, when lie fhall obferve, that, to the proof drawn from affinity of cuftoms, we have it in our power to add that moft unexceptionable one, drawn from affinity of language. Tamoloa, we now know, is the word ufed at Hamoa, one of the Friendly [flands, to fignify a Chief; and whoever looks into the Lettres Erfijjantes cif CurJeufes, »V1!I ice, that this is the very name by which the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands
diftjnguifh
Feejee, as we were told, lies three days fail from Tongataboo, in the direction of North Weft bv Weft. It was de-fcribed to us as a high, but very fruitful ifland ; abounding with hogs, dogs, fowls, and all the kinds of fruit and roots that are found in any of the others; and as much larger than Tongataboo ; to the dominion of which, as was reprefentcd to us, it is not fubjecT, as the other iflands of this archipelago arc. On the contrary, Fccjce and Tongataboo frequently make war upon each other. And it appeared, from feveral circumftances, that the inhabitants of the latter are much afraid of this enemy. They ufed to exprefs their fenfe of their own inferiority to the Fccjee men, by bending the body forward, and covering the face with their hands.   And it is no wonder, that they fhould be under
this dread; for thofe of Feejee arc formidable on account of the dexterity with which they ufe their bows and flings ; but much more fo, on account of the favage practice to which they are addicted, like thofe of New Zealand, of eating their enemies, whom they kill in battle. We were fatisfied, that this was not a mi ire pre fen tat ion. For we met with feveral Feejee people at Tongataboo, and, on inquiring of them, they did not deny the charge.
Now, that I am again led to fpeak of cannibals, let me afk thofe who maintain, that the want of food firft brings men to feed on human fleih, What is it that ihduceth the
diflinguifh their principal men. We have, in two preceding notes, infertcd paftages from Father Cantova's account of them, where their Tamohs arc fpoken of; and he repeats the word at leafl a dozen times, in the courfe of a few page?. Hut I cannot avoid transcribing, from him, the following very decifive teftimony, which renders any other quotation fuperfluous. .«« L'autorkie du Gouvcrnement fe partage entre *« plufieurs families noble?, dont les Chefs s'appellent TamoLs. 11 y a outre cela, i4 dans chaquc province, un principals Tamole, auquel tons les autrcs font foumis."
Lettres Ed'ifiantes & Cur'uufes, Tom. xv, p. 312.
3 Feejee
Feejee people to keep it up, in the* midfl of plenty ? This practice is clctciled, very much, by thofe of Tongataboo, who cultivate the friendfhip of their favage neighbours of Feejee, apparently out of fear ; though they fometimes venture to fkirmifh with them, on their own ground; and cany off red feathers, as their booty, which are in great plenty there, and, as has been frequently mentioned, are in great cftimation amongft our Friendly lflanders. When the two iflands arc at pe ice, the intercourfe between them feems to be pretty frequent ; though they have, doubtlefs, been but lately known to each other ; or wc may fnppofc, that Tongataboo, and its adjoining illands, would have been fupplied, before this, with a breed of dogs, which abound at Feejee, and had not been introduced at Tongataboo, fo late as 1773, when I firfl vifited it. The natives of Feejee, whom we met with here, were of a colour that was a full fhade darker, than that of the inhabitants of the Friendly Illands in general. One of them had his left ear flit, and the lobe was fo dillcnded, that it almofl reached his moulder ; which Angularity I had met with at other iilands of the South Sea, during my fecond voyage. It appeared tome, that the Feejee men, whom we now law, were much rcfpecled here; not only, perhaps, from the power, and cruel manner of their nation's going to war, bur, alfo, from their ingenuity. For they feem to excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in that refpect, if we might judge from feveral fpecimens of their (kill in workmanfhip, which we faw; fuch as clubs and fpears, which were carved in a very mafterly manner; cloth beautifully chequered; variegated mats; earthen pots ; and fome other articles; all which had a eafl of fupcriority in the execution.
I have
I have mentioned, that Feejee lies three days fail from Tongataboo, becaufe thefe people have no other method of meafuring the diftance from iiland to iiland, but by exprcfl-ing the time required to make the voyage, in one of their canoes. In order to afcertain this, with fome precifion, or, at leaft, to form fome judgment, how far thefe canoes can fail, in a moderate gale, in any given time, I went on board one of them, when under fail, and, by feveral trials with the log, found that fhe went feven knots, or miles, in an hour, clofe hauled, in a gentle gale. From this I judge, that they will fail, on a medium, with fuch breezes as generally blow in their fea, about feven or eight m^les in an hour. But the length of each day is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours. For when they fpeak of one days fail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening of the fame day ; that is, ten or twelve hours at moft. And two days fail, with them, fignifies from the morning of the firft day, to the evening of the fecond j and fo for any other number of days. In thefe navigations, the fun is their guide by day, and the ftars by night. When thefe are obfeured, they have rccourfc to the points from whence the winds and the waves came upon the vciTcl. If, during the obfeuration, both the wind and the waves mould fhift (which, within the limits of the trade-wind, feldom happens at any other time), they are then bewildered, frequently mifs their intended port, and arc never heard of more. The hiftory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, leads us to infer, that thofe not heard of, are not always loft.
Of all the harbours and anchoring places I have met with, amongft thefe illands, that of Tongataboo is, by far, the
5 be ft;
beft; not only on account of its great fecurity, but of its capacity, and of the goodncfs of its bottom. The rifk that we ran, in entering it from the North, ought to be a fufficient caution, to every future Commander, not to attempt that paffage again with a fhip of burden i fince the other, by which wc left it, is fo much mere eafy and fafe. To fail into it, by this Eaflern channel, fleer in for the North Eafl point of the ifland, and keep along the North fhore, with the fmall ifles on your flarboard, till you are the length of the Eafl point of the entrance into the lagoon; then edge over for the reef of the fmall ifles; and, on following its direction, it will conduct you through between Makkahaaa and Monooafai, or the fourth and fifth ifles, which you will perceive to lie off the Wefl point of the lagoon. Or you may go between the third and fourth iflands, that is, between Pangimodoo and Monooafai; but this channel is much narrower than the other. There runs a very flrong tide in both. The flood, as I have obferved before, comes in from the North Wefl, and the ebb returns the fame way; but I mall fpeak of the tides in another place. As foon as you are through either of thefe channels, haul in for the fhore of Tongataboo, and anchor between it and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading into the lagoon; into which boats can go at half flood.
Although Tongataboo has the befi harbour, Annamooka furnifhes the befi water j and yet, it cannot be called good. However, by digging holes near the fide of the pond, we can get what may be called tolerable. This ifland, too, is the befi fituated for drawing refrefhments from all the others, as being nearly in the centre of the whole group. Befides the road in which we anchored, and the harbour within the South Wefl point, there is a creek in the reef,
Vol. I. 3 C before
before the Faflern fandy cove, on the North fide of the ifland, in which two or three fhips may lie very fceurcly, by mooring head and flern, with their anchors or moorings faft to the rocks.
I have already defcribed the Hapaee iflands; and fhall only add to that defcription, by mentioning, that they extend South Wefl by South, and North Eafl by North, about nineteen miles. The North end lies in the latitude of iy° 39' South, and 33' of longitude to the Eafl of Annamooka. Between them, are a great many fmall- iflands, fand-banks, and breakers ; fo that the fafeft way to arrive at Hapaee, is either by the courfe I held, or round by the North; according to the fituation of the fhip bound thither. Lefooga, off which wc anchored, is the mofl fertile ifle of thofe that are called Hapaee; and, confequently, is the befi inhabited. There is anchorage along the North Wefl fide of this ifland; but it will be necefTary to examine the ground well before you moor. For, although the lead may bring up fine fand, there arc, neverthelefs, fome fharp coral rocks, that would foon deflroy the cables.
They who want a more particular defcription of the Friendly Iflands, muft have recourfe to the chart that we conflructed. There, every thing is delineated with as much accuracy as circumftances would permit. Recourfe muft, alfo, he had, to the fame chart, for the better tracing the feveral Rations of the Ihips, and their route from the one iiland to the other. To have fwelled my journal with a minute account of bearings, tackings, and the like, would neither have been entertaining nor inilrudtive.
What has been here omitted, concerning the geography of thefe iflands, will be found in the narrative of my
laft voyage*. To that narrative I muft alfo refer f, for fuch particulars concerning the inhabitants, their manners, and arts, as I had obferved then, and about which I faw no reafon to change my judgment. At prefent, I fhall confine myfelf to fuch interefting particulars, as cither were not mentioned in that narrative, or were imperfectly and incorrectly reprefented there ; and to fuch as may fcrvc to explain fome paffages in the foregoing account of our tranfractions with the natives.
It may, indeed, be expected, that, after fpending between two and three months amongft them, I mould be enabled to clear up every difficulty, and to give a tolerably fatisfac-tory account of their cuftoms, opinions, and inftitutions, both civil and religious; efpecially as we had a perfon on board, who might be fuppofed qualified to act the part of an interpreter, by underftanding their language and ours. But poor Omai was very delicienr. For unlefs the object or thing wc wanted to inquire about, was actually before us, we found it difficult to gain a tolerable knowledge of it, from information only, without falling into a hundred miftakes ; and to fuch miftakes Omai was more liable than we were. For, having no curiofity, he never gave himfelf the trouble to make remarks for himfelf; and, when he was difpofed to explain matters to us, his ideas appeared to be fo limited, and, perhaps, fo different from ours, that his accounts were often fo confufed, as to perplex, inftead of inftructing us. Add to this, that it was very rare that we found, amongft the natives, a perfon, who united the ability and the inclination to give us the information we wanted ; and, we found, that moft of them hated to be
Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 211. 213.     f IbiJ. p. 213. 225.
3 C n troubled
troubled with what they, probably, thought idle questions. Our fituation at Tongataboo, where we remained the longeft, was, likewife*, unfavourable. It was in a part of the country, where there were few inhabitants, except fi fliers. It was always holiday with our vifitcrs, as well as with thofe wc vifited ; fo that we had but few opportunities of obferving, what was really the domcflic way of living of the natives. Under thefe difadvanrages, it is not fur-prizing, that we mould not be able to bring away with us fatisfactory accounts of many things; but fome of us endeavoured to remedy thofe difadvantages, by diligent obfcrvation ; and I am indebted to Mr. Anderfon, for a confiderable fliare of what follows, in this and in the following chapter. In other matters, I have only expreffed, nearly in his words, remarks that coincided with mine; but what relates to the religion and language of thefe people, is entirely his own.
The natives of the Friendly Iflands feldom exceed the common flature (though we have mcafured fome, who were above fix feet) ; but are very flrong, and well made ; efpecially as to their limbs. They are generally broad about the moulders j and though the mufcular difpofition of the men, which feems a confequence of much action, rather conveys the appearance of ftrength than of beauty, there are feveral to be feen, who are really handfome. Their features are very various; infomuch, that it is fcarcely poflible to fix on any general likenefs, by which to characterize them, unlefs it be a fullnefs at the point of the nofc, which is very common. But, on the other hand, we met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many genuine Roman nofes, amongft them. Their eyes and teeth are good; but the lafl neither fo remarkably white, nor fo
well
well fee as is often found amongfl Indian nations ; though, to balance that, few of them have any uncommon thick-nefs about the lips, a defect as frequent as the other perfection.
The women are not fo much diftinguifhed from the men by their features as by their general form, which is, for the mofl part, deftitute of that flrong flefhy hrmnefs that appears in the latter. Though the features of fome arc fo delicate, as not only to be a true index of their fex, but to lay claim to a confiderable fhare of beauty and expreflion, the rule is, by no means, fo general as in many other countries. Bat, at the fame time, this is frequently the mofl exceptionable part; for the bodies and limbs of moft of the females are well proportioned; and fome, abfolutely, perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the mofl remarkable dif-tinction in the women, is the uncommon fmallnefs and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with the finefl in Europe.
The general colour is a eafl deeper than the copper brown; but feveral of the men and women have a true olive conr-plexion ; and fome of the laft are even a great deal fairer ; which is probably the effect of being lefs expofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in a few of the principal people, feems to be the confequence of a more indolent life. It is alfo amongft the laft, that a foft clear fkin is moil frequently obferved. Amongfl the bulk of the people, the fkin is, more commonly, of a dull hue, with fome degree of roughnefs, efpecially the parts that are not covered ; which, perhaps, may be occafioncd by fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man and boy at Hapaee, and a child at Annamooka, perfectly white.  Such have been found amongft all
black
black nations; but, I apprehend, that their colour is rather a difeafe, than a natural phenomenon.
There are, ncverthelefs, upon the whole, few natural defects or deformities to be found amongft them ; though we law two or three with their feet bent inward ; and fome afflicted with a fort of blindnefs, occafioned by a difeafe of the cornea. Neither are they exempt from fome other dif-eafes. The moft common of which is the tetter, or ringworm, that feems to affect almoft one half of them, and leaves whitifh ferpentine marks, every where, behind it. But this is of lefs confequence than another difeafe, which is very frequent, and appears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers with thick white edges, difcharging a thin, clear matter; fome of which had a very virulent appearance, particularly thofe on the face, which were fhocking to look at. And yet wc met with fome who feemed to be cured of it, and others in a fair way of being cured; but this was not affected without the lofs of the nofe, or of the befi part of it. As we know for a certainty * (and the fact is acknowledged by themfelves), that the people of thefe illands were fubject to this loathfome difeafe before the Englifli firft vifited them, notwithftanding the fimilarity of fymptoms, it cannot be the effect of the venereal contagion; unlefs we adopt a fuppofition, which I could wifh had fufficient foundation in truth, that the venereal diforder was not introduced here from Europe, by our fhips in 1773. It, affuredly, was now found to exift amongft them ; for we had not been long there, before fome of o.ir people received
* See Vol. ii, p. 20. of Captain Cook's Voyage, where he gives a particular account of meeting with a perfon afHicled with this difeafe, at Annamooka, on his landing there in 1773.
the
the infection; and I had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the care I took, when I firft vifited thefe iflands, to prevent this dreadful difeafe from being communicated to their inhabitants, had proved ineffectual. What is cxiraoi-.unary, they do not feem to regard it much ; and as we faw few figns of its deftroying effects, probably the climate, and the way of living of thefe people, greatly abate its virulence. There are two other difeafes frequent amongft them ; one of which is an indolent firm fwelling, which affects the legs and arms, and increafes them to an extraordinary fize in their whole length. The other is a tumour of the fame fort, in the tefticles, which fometimes exceed the fize of the two Ms. But, in other refpects, they may be confidered as uncommonly healthy; not a fingle perfon having been feen, during our flay, confined to the houfe, by ficknefs of any kind. On the contrary, their ftrength and activity are, every way, anfwerable to their mufcular appearance; and they exert both, in their ufual employment, and in their diverfions, in fuch a manner, that there can be no doubt of their being, as yet, little debilitated by the numerous difeafes that are the confequence of indolence, and an unnatural method of life.
The graceful air and firm ftcp with which thefe people walk, are not the leaft obvious proof of their perfonal accom-plifhmems. They confider this as a thing fo natural, or fo neceffary to be acquired, that nothing ufed to excite their laughter fooner, than to fee us rrcquemly Humbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities of the ground.
Their countenances very remarkably exprefs the abundant mildnefs, or good nature, which they poffieCs ; and are entirely free from that favage kcennefs which marks nations
tions in a barbarous ftate. One would, indeed, be apt to fancy, that they had been bred up under the fevereft reftric-tions, to acquire an afpect fo fettled, and fuch a command of their paflions, as well as fteadinefs in conduct. But they are, at the fame time, frank, cheerful, and good-humoured; though, fometimes, in the prefence of their Chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and fuch a ferious air as becomes flilf and awkward, and has an appearance of referve.
Their peaceable difpofition is fufficiently evinced, from the friendly reception all ftrangers have met with, who have vifited them. Inftead of offering to attack them openly, or clandeftinely, as has been the cafe with moft of the inhabitants of thefe feas, they have never appeared, in the fmalleft degree, hoftile ; but, on the contrary, like the moft civilized people, have courted an intercourfe with their vifiters, by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all nations in a fort of friendfhip. They underftand barter (which they call fukkatou) fo perfectly, that, at firft, we imagined they might have acquired this knowledge of it by commercial intercourfe with the neighbouring iflands ; but we were afterward affured, that they had little or no traffic, except with Feejee, from which they get the red feathers, and the few other articles, mentioned before. Perhaps, no nation in the world traffic with more honefty and lefs diftruft. We could always fafely permit them to examine our goods, and to hand them about, one to another ; and they put the fame confidence in us. If either party repented of the bargain, the goods were re-exchanged with mutual confent and good-humour. Upon the whole, they feem poffeffed of many of the moft excellent qualities that adorn the human mind; fuch as induflry, ingenuity, perfeverance, affability,
and,
and, perhaps, other virtues which our fhort flay with them might prevent our obferving.
The only defect fullying their character, that wc know of, is a propcnfity to thieving ; to which, we found, thofe of all ages, and both fexes, addicted"; and to an uncommon degree. It fhould, however, be confidered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct feemed to exift merely with refpect to us; for, in their general intercourfe with one another, I had reafon to be of opinion, that thefts do not happen more frequently (perhaps lefs fo) than in other countries, the difhoncfl practices of whofe worthlcfs individuals arc not fuppofed to authorize any indifcriminate cenfurc on the whole body of the people. Great allowances fhould be made for the foibles of thefe poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whofe minds we overpowered with the glare of objects, equally new to them, as they were captivating. Stealing, amongft the civilized and enlightened nations of the world, may well be confidered as denoting a character deeply flained with moral turpitude, with avarice unreftraincd by the known rules of right, and with profligacy producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other illands which wc vifited, the thefts, fo frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with us, may be fairly traced to lefs culpable motives. fhey feemed to arife, folely, from an intenfe curiofity or defire to pollefs fomething which they had not been accuftomed to before, and belonging to a fort of people fo different from themfelves. And, perhaps, if it were poflible, that a fet. of beings, feemingly as fuperior in our judgment, as we are'in theirs, fhould appear amongfl us, it might be doubted, whether our natural regard to jufticc would be able to re-
Vol. I. 3 f> ftrain
ftrain many from falling into the fame error. That I have affigned the true motive for their propenfny to this practice, appears from their ftcaling every thing indifcriminately at firft fight, before they could have the leaft conception of converting their prize to any one ufeful purpofe But, I believe, with us, no perfon would forfeit his reputation, or expofe himfelf to punifliment, without knowing, before hand, how to employ the ftolen goods. Upon the whole, the pilfering difpofition of thefe iflanders, though certainly ditagreeable and troublefome to ftrangers, was the means of affording us fome information as to the quicknefs of their intellects, for their fmall thefts were committed with much dexterity; and thofe of greater confequence with a plan or icheme fuited to the importance of the objects. An extraordinary inltance of the fall fort, their attempts to carry away one of the Dilcovery's anchors, at mid-day, has been already related.
Their hair is, in general, flraight, thick, and flrong ; though a few have it bufhy or frizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almoft without exception, is black; but the greatefl part of the men, and fome of the women, have it llaincd of a hi own, or purple colour; and a few of an orange call. The firft colour is produced by applying a fort of plailcr of burnt coral, mixed with water ; the fecond, by the rafpingS of a reddifh wood, which is made up with water into a poultice, and laid over the hair; and -the third is, I believe, the effect of turmeric root.
When I full vifited thefe iflands, I thought it had been an univerfal cuftom for both men and women to wear tl;c hair fhort; bur, during our prefent longer flay, we faw a great many exceptions. Indeed, they are fo whimfical in their fa-
fliions
ihions of wearing it, that it is hard to tell which is moft in vogue. Some have it cut off one fide of the head, while that on the other fide remains long; fome have only a portion of it cut fhort, or, perhaps, fliaved ; others have it entirely cut off, except a fingle lock, which is left commonly on one fide; or, it is fullered to grow to its full length, without any of thefe mutilations. The women, in general, wear it fhort. The men have their beards cut fhort; and both men and women ft'rip the hair from their armpits. The operation by which this la performed has been already defcribed. The men are ftained from about the middle of the belly, to about half way down the thighs, with a deep blue colour. This is done with a flat bone in-flrumcnt, cut full of fine teeth, which, being clipped in the flaining mixture, prepared from the juice of the d'bbe doot, is flruck into the fkin with a bit of ftick; and, by that means, indelible marks are made. In this manner they trace lines and figures, which, in fome, are very elegant, both from the variety, and from the arrangement. The women have only a few fmall lines or fpots, thus imprinted, on the infide of their hands. Their kings, as a mark of diflinclion, are exempted from this cuftom, as alfo from inflicting on themfelves any of thofe bloody marks of mourning, which fhall be mentioned in another place.
The men arc all circumcifed, or rather fupercifed; as the operation confifts in cutting off only a fmall piece of the forefkin, at the upper part ; which, by that means, is rendered incapable, ever after, of covering the gldm This is all they aim at; as they fay, the operation is practifed from a notion of cleanlinefs.
The drefs of both men and women is the fame; and confifts of a piece of cloth or matting (but moftly the
3 D 2 former),
»7?7«     former), about two yards wide, and two and a half long :
July, '
—v—at leail, fo long as to go once and a half round the waill, to which it is confined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down, like a petticoat, as low as the middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, above the girdle, is plaited into feveral folds; fo that, when unfolded, there is cloth fufficient to draw up and wrap round the moulders; which is very feldom done. This, as to form, is the general drefs; but large pieces of cloth, and fine matting, arc worn only by the fuperior people. The inferior fort are fatisfied with fmall pieces; and, very often, wear nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or the maroy which is a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a fafli. This they pafs between the thighs, and wrap round the waifl; but the ufe of it is chiefly confined to the men. In their great haivas, or entertainments, they have various drcflcs made for the purpofe ; but the form is always the fame ; and the richefl dreffes are covered, more or lefs, with red feaihcrs. On what particular occafion their Chiefs wear their large red feather-caps, I could not Icarn. Both men and women fometimes fhade their faces from the fun with little bonnets, made of various materials.
As the clothing, fo arc the ornaments, worn by thofe of both fexes, the fame. The moft common of thefe are necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandaum, and various fwcet-fmelling flowers, which go under the general name of kahulla. Others are compofed of fmall fhells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, mark's teeth, and other things; all which hang loofe upon the bread. In the fame manner, they often wear a mother-of-pearl fhell, neatly polifhed or a ring of the fame fubilancc carved, on the upper part i of
of the arm ; rings of tortoife-lhell on the fingers; and a '77J1 number of thefe, joined together, as bracelets on the <— *-wrifls.
The lobes of the ears (though, mod frequently, only one) arc perforated with two holes, in which they wear cylindrical bits of ivory, about three inches long, introduced at one hole, and brought out of the other; or bits of reed of the fame fize, filled with a yellow pigment. This feems to be a fine powder of turmeric, with which the women rub themfelves all over, in the fame manner as our ladies ufe their dry rouge upon the checks.
Nothing appears to give them greater plcafure than per-fonal clcanlincfs; to produce which, they frequently bathe in the ponds, which feem to fcrve no other purpofe *. Though the water in mofl of them flinks intolerably, they prefer them to the fea; and they are fo fenfible that fait water hurts their fkin, that, when ncceffity obliges them to bathe in the fea, they commonly have fome cocoa-nut (hells, filled with frefh water, poured over them, to wafh it off. They are immoderately fond of cocoa-nut oil for the fame reafon; a great quantity of which they not only pour upon their head and moulders, but rub the body all over, brifkly, with a fmaller quantity. And none but thofe who have feen this practice, can cafily conceive how the appearance of the fkin is improved by it. This oil, however, is not to be procured by every one ; and the inferior fort of people, doubtlcfs, appear lefs fmooth for want of it.
* So at the Caroline Iflands.    " Ils font accoutcmJs a fe batgner trois fois, le ** jour, le matin, a midi, & fur le fuir."
Letircs Ed'ifiantes i$ Curicufes, Tom. xv. p. 314.
C H A I\
chap. xi.
Employments of the Women, at the Friendly Iflands.— Of the Men. — Agriculture.—Co nfi ration of their Houfes, — Their working Tools ---Cordage, and fifhing Implements. — Mufical Inflruments —Weapons.—Food, and Cookery. — //m/fimerits, — Marriage. — Mourning Ceremonies for the Dead—Their Divinities,—Notions about the Soul, and a future State.—Their Piaces of Worfidip.—Government.—Manner cf paying Obstfance to the Kir.g—Account of the Royal Family—Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.— Nautical, and other Obfervations.
rip HEIR domeftic life is of that middle kind, neither Jl fo laborious as to be di(agreeable, nor fo vacant as to fuller them to degenerate into indolence. Nature has done fo much for their country, that the fir If can hardly occur, and their difpofition feems to be a pretty good bar to the laft. By this happy combination of circumftances, their neceffary labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their recreations, in fuch a manner, that the latter arc never interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to the former, till faticty makes them wifh for fuch a transition,
The employment of the women is of the eafy kind, and, for the moft part, fuch as may be executed in the houfe. The manufacturing their cloth, is wholly configned to their
care.
care. flaving already defcribed the procefs, I fhall only add, that they have this cloth of different degrees of fine-nefs. The coarfer forr, of which they make very large pieces, does not receive the imprellion of any pattern. Of the finer fort, they have fome that is flrjpcd, and chequered, and of cipher patterns differently coloured. But how thefe colouis are laid on, I cannot fay, as I never faw any of this fort made. J he clorh, in general, will refill water, for fome time ; but that which lias the flrongelf glaze will refill longefl.
The manufacture next in confequence, and alfo within the department of the women, is that of their mats, which excel every thing I have feen at any other place, both as to their texture and their beauty. In particular, many of them are fo fuperior to thofe made at Otaheite, that they are not a bad article to carry thither, by way of trade. Of thefe mats, they have feven or eight different forts, for the purpofes of wearing or flceping upon ; and many are merely ornamental. 1 he lall are chiefly made from the tough, membraneous part of the flock of the plantain tree; thofe that they wear, from the pan Janus, cultivated for that purpofe, and never fuffered to Ihoot into a trunk ; and the coarfer fort, which they fleep upon, from a plant called evarra. There are many other articles of lefs note, that employ the fparc time of their females; as combs, of which they make vail numbers; and little bafkets made of the fame fubLlance as the mats, and others of the fibrous cocoa-nut hufk, cither plain, or interwoven with fmall beads ; but all, finifhed with fuch neatnefs and tafle in the difpofition of the various part?, that a flranger cannot help admiring their aftiduity and dexterity.
3
The
The province allotted to the men is, as might be expected, far more laborious and extenfive than that of the women. Agriculture, architecture, boat-building, fifhing, and other things that relate to navigation, are the objects of their care*. Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal fupport, this requires their conftant attenrion to agriculture, which they purfue very diligently, and feem to have brought almofl to as great perl eel:ion as circumitances will permit, The large extent of the plantain fields has been taken notice of already; and the fame may be faid of the yams; thefe two together, being, at leaft, as ten to one, with refpect to all the other articles. In planting both thefe, they dig fmall holes for their reception, and, afterward, root up the funounding grafs, which, in this hot country, is quickly deprived of its vegetating power, and, foon rotting, becomes a good manure. The inflruments they ufe for this purpofe, which they call hooo, are nothing more than pickets or flakes of different lengths, according to the depth they have to dig. Thefe are flattened and fharpened to an edge at one end ; and the largcft have a fhort piece fixed tranfverfely, for prcfling it into the ground with the foot. With thefe, though they are not more than from two to four inches broad, they dig and plant ground of many acres in extent, In planting the plantains and yams, they obferve fo much cxactnefs, that, whichever way you look, the rows prefent themfelves regular and complete.
* How remarkably does Captain Cook's account of the employments of the women and nfen here, agree with Father C.mtova's, of the Caroline Illanders f—" La " principale occupation des homines, cit de confrruire des barques j de pecher, cc dc " qultiver la terre. L'affarre des femmcs eft de faire la cuifine, & dc mcttre en ** CEtivre UIJ efpecc de plante fauvage, & un arbre,—pour en faire de la toile."
Lclirci Edifuinta & Curieufes, Tom. xv. p. 313.
The
The cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees are fcattered about, without any order, and feem to give them no trouble, after they have attained a certain height. The fame may be faid of another large tree, which produces great numbers of a large, roundifh, compreffed nut, called eeefce; and of a fmaller tree, that bears a rounded oval nut, two inches long, with two or three triangular kernels, tough and infipid, called mabba, mofl frequently planted near their houfes.
The kappe is, commonly, regularly planted, and in pretty large fpots; but the mauuhaha is interfperfed amongll other things, as the jeejee and yarns are; the laft of which, I have frequently feen, in the interfpaces of the plantain trees, at their common diftance. Sugar-cane is commonly in fmall fpots, crowded clofely together $ and the mulberry, of which the cloth is made, though without order, has fufficient room allowed for it, and is kept very clean. The only other plant, that they cultivate for their manufactures, is the pandanus \ which is generally planted in a row, clofe together, at the fides of the other fields; and they confider it as a thing fo diflinct in this ftate, that they have a different name for it; which fhews, that they are very fcnfible of the great changes brought about by cultivation.
It is remarkable, that thefe people, who, in many things, fhew much tafte and ingenuity, fhould fhew little of cither in building their houfes ; though the defect is rather in the defign, than in the execution. Thofe of the lower people are poor huts, fcarcely fufficient to defend them from the weather, and very fmall. Thofe of the better fort, are larger and more comfortable ; but not what one might expect. The dimenfions of one of a middling fize, are about thirty feet long, twenty broad, and twelve high. Their houfe is, properly fpcaking, a thatched roof or fhed, fup-
Vol. I. 3 E ported
ported by polls and rafters, difpofed in a very judicious manner. The floor is raifed with earth fmoothed, and covered with- flrong, thick matting, and kept very clean. The mofl of them are doled on the weather fide (and fome more than two-thirds round), with flrong mats, or with branches of the cocoa-nut tree, plaited or woven into each other. Thefe they fix up edgewife, reaching from the eaves to the ground ; and thus they anfvver the purpofe of a wall. A thick, flrong mat, about two and one half or three feet broad, bent into the form of a femicirele, and fet upon its edge, with the ends touching the fide of the houfe, in fhape refembling the fender of a fire hearth, inclofes a fpace for the mafler and miftrefs of the family to fleep in. The lady, indeed, fpends moft of her time, during the day, within it. The reft of the family fleep upon the floor, wherever they plcafc to lie down ; the unmarried men and women apart from each other. Or, if the family be large, there are fmall huts adjoining, to which the fervants retire in the night; fo that privacy is as much obferved here, as one could expect. They have mats made on purpofe for llecping on ; and the clothes that they wear in the day, ferve for their covering in the night. Their whole furniture confifts of a bowl or two, in which they make kava; a few gourds; cocoa-nut fhclls ; fome fmall wooden flools, which ferve them for pillows ; and, perhaps, a large ftool for the Chief, or Mailer, of the family to fit upon.
The only probable feafon I can affign for their neglect of ornamental architecture, in the conftruction of their houfes, is their being fond of living much in the open air. Indeed, they feem to eonfider their houfes, within which they feldom eat, as of little ufe but to fleep in, and to retire to in bad weather.   And the lower fort of people, who fpend a great
par:
part of their time in clofe attendance upon the Chiefs, can have little ufe for their own houfes, but in the laft cafe.
They make amends for the defects of their houfes, by their great attention to, and dexterity in, naval architecture, if I may be allowed to give it that name. But I refer to the narrative of my laft voyage, for an account of their canoes, and their manner of building and navigating them.*
The only tools which they ufe, to conftruct thefe boats, arc hatchets, or rather thick adzes, of a fmooth black ftone that abounds at Toofoa; augres, made of fhark's teeth, fixed on fmall handles; and rafps, of a rough fkin of a fifli, faftcned on flat pieces of wood, thinner on one fide, which alfo have handles. The labour and time employed in finifhing their canoes, wdnch are the moft perfect of their mechanical productions, will account for their being very careful of them. For they are built and preferved under fheds ; or they cover the decked part of them with cocoa-leaves, when they are hauled on fhore, to prevent their being hurt by the fun.
The fame tools are all they have for other works ; if we except different fhclls, which they ufe as knives. But there are few of their productions that require thefe, unlefs it he fome of their weapons ; the other articles being chiefly their fifhing materials, and cordage.
The cordage is made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut hufk, which, though not more than nine or ten inches long, they plait, about the fize of a quill, or lefs, to any length
* Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 215, 216. The reader, by comparing that account, with what Cantova fays of the fca-boats of the Caroline [(lands, will find, in this inltance, alfo, the gieatcit fimilarity.   See Lettres Edifiantes 12 Curieufci, p. 286.
3 E 2 that
777« that they pleafe, and roll it up in balls; from which the u—u—j larger ropes arc made, by twifting feveral of thefe together.
The lines, that they fifh with, are as flrong and even as the befi cord we make, refembling it almofl in every refpect. Their other fifhing implements, are large and fmall hooks. The lafl are compofed entirely of pearl-fhell; but the firfl are only covered with it on the back; and the points of both, commonly, of toi toife-fhcll; thofe of the fmall being plain, and the others barbed. With the large ones, they catch bonnctos and albicores, by putting them to a bamboo rod, twelve or fourteen feet long, with a line of the fame length, which rcfts in a notch of a piece of wood, fixed in the ftern of the canoe for that purpofe, and is dragged on the furface of the fea, as fhe rowes along, without any other bait than a tuft of flaxy fluff near the point. They have alfo great numbers of pretty fmall feines, fome of which are of a very delicate texture. Thefe they ufe to catch fifh with, in the holes on the reefs, when the tide ebbs.
The other manual employments, confifl chiefly in making mufical reeds, flutes, warlike weapons, and (tools, or rather pillows, to fleep on. The reeds have eight, nine, or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, but not in any regular progreflion; having the longefl, fometimes, in the middle, and feveral of the fame length ; fo that I have feen none with more than fix notes ; and they feem incapable of play-' ing any mufic on them, that is diftinguifhable by our ears*. The flutes are a joint of bamboo, clofe at both ends, with a hole near each, and four others ; two of which, and one of the firft only, arc ufed in playing.   They apply the thumb
* Sec a draw ing of one of thefe mufical reeds, in Captain Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 221. Plate XXI.
7 of
of the left hand, to clofe the left noflril, and blow into the hole at one end, with the other. The middle finger of the left hand is applied to the firft hole on the left, and the forefinger of the right, to the loweft hole on that fide. In this manner, though the notes are only three, they produce a pleafing, yet fimple, mufic, which they vary much more than one would think poflible, with fo imperfect an inftru-ment. Their being accuftomed to a mufic which confifts of fo few notes, is, perhaps, the reafon why they do not feem to relifh any of ours, which is fo complex. But they can tafte what is more deficient than their own; for, we obferved, that they ufed to be well pleafed with hearing the chant of our two young New Zealanders, which confided rather in mere ftrength, than in melody of expreflion.
The weapons, which they make, are clubs of different forts (in the ornamenting of which they fpend much time), fpcars, and darts. They have alfo bows and arrows; but thefe feemed to be defigned only for amufement, fuch as mooting at birds, and not for military purpofes. The ftools are about two feet long, but only four or five inches high, and near four broad, bending downward in the middle, with four ftrong legs, and circular feet; the whole made of one piece of black or brown wood, neatly polifhed, and fometimes inlaid with bits of ivory. They alfo inlay the handles of fly-flaps with ivory, after being neatly carved ; and they fhape bones into fmall figures of men, birds, and other things, which muft be very difficult, as their carving inftru-ment is only a fhark's tooth.
Yams, plantains, and cocoa nuts, compofc the grcateft part of their vegetable diet. Of their animal food, the chief articles are hogs, fowls, fifli, and all forts of fliell fifh; but the lower people eat rats.   The two firft vegetable articles,
with
with bread-fruit, are, what may be called, the bafis of their food, at different times of the year, with fifh and fhcll-fifli; for hogs, fowls, and turtle, feem only to be occafional dainties, rcferved for their Chiefs. The intervals between the feafons of thefe vegetable productions mult be, fometimes, confiderable, as they prepare a fort of artificial bread from plantains, which they put under ground before ripe, and fuifer them to remain, till they ferment, when they are taken out, and made up into fmall balls ; but fo four and indifferent, that they often faid our bread was preferable, though fomewhat mully.
Their food is, generally, dreffed by baking, in the fame manner as at Otaheite; and they have the art of making, from different kinds of fruit, feveral difhes, which mofl of us cllccmed very good. I never faw them make ufe of any kind of fauccj nor drink any thing at their meals but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut ; for the kava is only their morning draught. I cannot fay, that they are cleanly cither in their cookery, or manner of eating. The generality of them will lay their victuals upon the firfl leaf they meet with, however dirty it may be ; but when food is ferved up to the Chiefs, it is, commonly, laid upon green plantain leaves. When the king made a meal, he was, for the mofl part, attended upon by three or four perfons. One cut large pieces of the joint, or of the fifli; another divided it into mouthfuls; and others flood by with cocoa-nuts, and whatever elfe he might want. I never faw a large company fit down to what we fhould call a fociablc meal, by eating from the fame dim. The food, be what it will, is always divided into portions, each to ferve a certain number ; thefe portions are again fubdivided ; fo that one feldom fees above two or three perfons eating together. The women + are
T
are not excluded from eating with the men; but there are certain ranks or orders amongd them, that can neither eat nor drink together. This diflinction begins with the king ; but where it ends, I cannot fay.
They feem to have no fet time for meals; though it mould be obferved, that, during our flay amongfl them, their domeflic ceconomy was much diflurbed by their con-flant attention to us. As far as we could remark, thofe of the fuperior rank, only drink kava in the forenoon, and the others eat, perhaps, a bit of yam; but we commonly faw all of them eat fomething in the afternoon. It is probable that the practice of making a meal in the night is pretty common, and their reft being thus interrupted, they frequently fleep in the day. They go to bed as foon as it is dark, and rife with the dawn in rhe morning *.
They are very fond of aifociating together; fo that it is common to find feveral houfes empty, and the owners of them convened in fome other one, or, rather, upon a convenient fpot in the neighbourhood, where they recreate themfelves by converting, and other amufements. Their private diverftons are chiefly iinging, dancing, and mufic performed by the women. When two or three women fing in concert, and fnap their fingers, it is called oobal\ but when there is a greater number, they divide into feveral parties, each of which lings on a different key, which makes a very agreeable mufic, and is called heeva, or haiva. In the fame manner, they vary the mufic of their flutes, by playing on thofe of a different fize ;- but their dancing is mnch the fame as when they perform publickly.   The dancing
* Cantova jfeya of hi? ifiander?, " lis prcrmcnt leur repos des que le foleil eft couche,, " & ils fclevent avec l'aurore."   Ltitres Edifiuntcs & Curlcufes, Tom. xv. p. 314.
0§
of the men (if it is to be called dancing), although it does not confift much in moving the feet, as we do, has a thoufand different motions with the hands, to which we are entire ftrangcrs ; and they are performed whh an cafe and grace which are not to be defcribed, nor even conceived, but by thofe wdio have feen them, but I need add nothing to what has been already faid on this fubject, in the account of the incidents that happened during our flay at the iflands *.
Whether their marriages be made lafling by any kind of folemn contract, wc could not determine with precifion; but
* If, to the copious descriptions that occur in the preceding pages, of the particular entertainments exhibited in Hapaee and Tongarabod, wc add the general view of the ufual amufemcnts of the inhabitants of thefe iflands, contained in this paragraph, and compare it with the quotation from the Jefuit's Letters, in a former note (p. 255.), we fhall be frill more forcibly flruck with the rcafonablenefs of tracing fuch fingiihrly refemblmg cuftoms to one common fource. The argument, in confirmation of this, drawn from identity of language, has been already illuftrated, by obferving the remarkable coincidence of the mime, by which the Chiefs at the Caroline Illands, and thofe at Hamao, one of the Friendly ones, are diftinguifhed. But the argument does not reft on a fingle inftance, though that happens to be a very flriking one. Another of the very few fpecimens of the dialecf of the North Pacific Iflanders, prcferved by father Cantova, furnifhes an additional proof. Immediately after the paffage above referred to, he proceeds thus : " Ce divertiflement s'appelle, en leur " langue, tanger ifa'ifil; qui veut dire, la plainte des femmes." Lettres Edijiantes & Cu-rieufes, Tom. xv. p. 315. Now it is very remarkable, that we learn from Mr, An-deifon's collection of words, which will appear in this chapter, that la plainte des femmes, or, in Englifh, the mournful Jong of the women, which the inhabitants of the Caroline 1 Hands exprefs in their language tanger ifaifily would, by thofe of Tongataboo, be expreffed tangee vefatne.
If any one fhould ftill doubt, in fpite of this evidence, it may be recommended to his confjdcratlon, that long feparation, and other caufes, have introduced greater variations in the mode of pronouncing thefe two words, at places confefledly inhabited by the fame race, than fubfift in the fpecimen juft given. It appears, from Mr. An-derfon's vocabulary, printed in Captain Cook's fecond voyage, that what is pronounced tangee at the Friendly Iflands, is taee at Otaheite \ and the vefaine of the former, is the ivabeine of the latter.
it
it is certain, that the bulk of the people fatisfied themfelves with one wife. The Chiefs, however, have, commonly, feveral women * j though fome of us were of opinion, that there was only one that was looked upon as the miftrefs of the family.
As female chaffity, at firft fight, feemed to be held in no great eftimation, we expected to have found frequent breaches of their conjugal fidelity; but we did them great injuftice. I do not know that a iingle inftance happened during our whole ftay f. Neither are thofe of the better fort, that arc unmarried, more free of their favours. It is true, there was no want of thofe of a different character; and, perhaps, fuch are more frequently met with here, in proportion to the number of people, than in many other countries. 'But it appeared to me, that the moft, if not all of them, were of the loweft clafs; and fuch of them as permitted familiarities to our people, were proftitutes by pro-feiTion.
Nothing can be a greater proof of the humanity of thefe people, than the concern they fhew for the dead J. To ufe a common expreflion, their mourning is not in words but deeds. For, befides the tooge mentioned before, and burnt circles and fears, they beat the teeth with flones, ftrike a mark's tooth into the head until the blood flows in ftreams, and thruft fpcars into the inner part of the thigh, into their
* Cantova fays of his Caroline iflandcrs, " La pluralite des femmes eft non " feulcment perniifc a tous ces infulaires, elle eft encore une marque d'honneur & *« de diflindion.   Le Tamole de l'ifle d'Huogoleu en a neuf."
Lettres Edifantes & Cur'teufes> Tom. xv. p, 3ro.
+ At the Caroline Iflands, " Ils ont horreur de l'adultere, comme d'une grand " peche."   Ibid.  Tom. xv. p. 310.
J -How the inhabitants of the Caroline Iflands exprefs their grief on fuch occafions, may be feen, Ibid. Tom. xv. p. 308.
Vol. I. 3 F fides
fides below the arm-pits, and through the cheeks into the mouth. All thefe operations convey an idea of fuch rigorous difcipline, as muft require either an uncommon degree of affection, or the groffeft fuperftition, to exact. I will not fay, that the laft has no (hare in it; for, fometimes, it is fo univerfal, that many could not have any knowledge of the perfon for whom the concern is expreffed. Thus we faw the people of Tongataboo mourning the death of a Chief at Vavaoo; and other fimilar inftances occurred during our flay. It fhould be obferved, however, that the more painful operations arc only pracTifed on account of the death of thofe moft nearly connected with the mourners. When a perfon dies, he is buried, after being wrapped up in mats and cloth, much after our manner. The Chiefs feem to have the fmtookas appropriated to them as their burial-places ; but the common people arc interred in no parti* cular fpot What part of the mourning ceremony follows, immediately after, is uncertain ; but, that there is fome-thing befides the general one, which is continued for a confiderable length of time, we could infer, from being informed, that the funeral of Mareewagee's wife, as mentioned before, was to be attended with ceremonies that were to laft five days ; and in which all the principal people were to commemorate her.
Their long and general mourning, proves that they con-fidcr death as a very great evil.   And this is confirmed by a
* Cantova's account of the practice of the Caroline Liana's is as follows : " Lorf-41 qu'il meurt quelque perfonne d'un rang didingue, ou qui leur c(t chcre par d'autres ** endroits, fes obfeques fe font avec pompe.   II y en a qui renfermcnt le corps du
defunct dans un petit edifice de pierre, qu'ils gardent au-dedans dc leur maifons. 41 D'autres les enterrent loin de leurs habitations."
Lettres Edifront es    Curie ufest Tom. xv. p. 308, 309,
very
very odd cuflom which drey practifc to avert it. When I firft vifited thefe Iflands, during my laft voyage, I obferved that many of the inhabitants had one or both of their little fingers cut off; and we could not then receive any fatisfac-tory account of the reafon of this mutilation*. But wc now learned, that this operation is performed when they labour under fome grievous difeafe, and think themfelves in danger of dying. They fuppofe, that the Deity will accept of the little finger, as a fort of facrifice efficacious enough to procure the recovery of their health. They cut it off with one of their flone hatchets. There was fcarcely one in ten of them whom we did not find thus mutilated, in one or both hands; which has a difagreeable effect, efpecially as they fometimes cut fo clofe, that they encroach upon the bone of the hand which joins to the amputated finger fs
From the rigid feverity with which fome of thefe mourning and religious ceremonies are executed, one would expect to find, that they meant thereby to fecure to themfelves felicity beyond the grave; but their principal object relates to things merely temporal. For they feem to have little conception of future punifhment for faults committed in this life. They believe, however, that they are juttly pu-nifhed upon earth; and, confequently, ufe every method to render their divinities propitious. The Supreme Author of moft things they call Kallafootonga; who, they fay, is a female, rending in the fky, and directing the thunder, wind, rain ; and, in general, all the changes of weather. They
* Sec Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 222.
f It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that it is common for the inferior people to cut off a joint of their little finger, on account of the ficknefs of the Chiefs to whom they belong.
3 F 2 believe,
believe, that when (he is angry with them, the productions-of the earth arc blaftcd; that many things arc dcllroycd by lightning; and that they themfelves are afflicted with ficknefs and death, as well as their hogs and other animals. When this anger abates, they fuppofe that every thing is-reflored to its natural order ; and it fhould feem, that they have a great reliance on the efficacy of their endeavours to appeafc their offended divinity.    They alfo admit a plurality of deities, though all inferior to Kail afoot onga. Amongft them, they mention Toofooa-boolootco, God of the clouds and fog ; Talleteboo, and fome others, refiding in the heavens.   The firft in rank and power, who has the government of the fea, and its productions, is called Fuitafaibe, or, as it was fometimes pronounced, Footafoca; who, they fay, is a male, and has for his wife Fykava kajeea ; and here, as in heaven, there are feveral inferior potentates, fuch as Vahaa Jonooa, Tareeava,  Mattaba, Evaroo, and others. The fame religious fyftcm, however, does not extend all over the cluftcr of the Friendly Ifles; for the fupremc God of Hapaee, for inftancc, is called Ala Alo; and other ifles have two or three, of different names. But their notions of the power, and other attributes of thefe beings, arc fo very abfurd, that they fuppofe they have no farther concern with them after death.
They have, however, very proper fentiments about the immateriality and the immortality of the forth They call ic life, the living principle, or, what is more agreeable to their notions of it, an Ctooa ; that is, a divinity, or invifible being. They fay, that, immediately upon death, the fouls of their Chiefs feparate from their bodies, and go to a place called Boolootoo; the Chief, or god, of which, xsGooleho. This Gookho feems to be a perfonification of death ; for they ufed to fay to us, " You, and the men of Feejee (by this junc-8 " tion,
" tion, meaning to pay a compliment, cxpreflive of their " confeffton of our fupcriority over themfelves), arc alfo " fubject to the power and dominion of Gooleha" His country, the general receptacle of the dead, according to their mythology, was never feen by any perfon ; and yet, it feems, they know that it lies to the Weftward of Feejee; and that they who are once tranfported thither, live for ever; or, to ufe their own cxpreflion, are not fubject to death again ; but feaft upon all the favourite products of their own country, with which this everlafting abode is fuppofed to abound.   As to the fouls of the lower fort of people, they undergo a fort of tranfmigration ; or, as they fay, arc eat up by a bird called hat a, which walks upon their graves for that purpofe.
I think I may venture to affert, that they do not worfliip, any thing that is the work of their own hands, or any vi-fible part of the creation. They do not make offerings of hogs, dogs, and fruit, as at Otaheite, unlefs it be emblematically ; for their morals were perfectly free from every thing of the kind. But that they offer real human facrificcs, is, with me, beyond a doubt. Their morals, or jiatookas (for they are called by both names, but moftly by the latter), arc, as at Otaheite, and many other parts of the world, bu-rying-grounds, and places of worfliip; though fome of them feemed to be only appropriated to the firft purpofe but thefe were fmall, and, in every other refpect, inferior to the others.
- Of the nature of their government, we know no more than the general outline. A fubordination is eftabiifhed among them, that refembles the feudal fyftem of our progenitors in Europe.   But of its fubdivifions, of the conftituent parts,
and
J777*     and in what manner they are connected, fo as to form a body
July. , ,
-1 politic, I confers myfelf totally ignorant. Some of them told
us, that the power of the king is unlimited, and that the life and property of the fubject is at his difpofal. But the few circumftances that fell under our obfcrvation, rather contradicted than confirmed the idea of a defpotic government. Mareewagee, old Tooboo, and Feenou, acted each like petty fovereigns, and frequently thwarted the meafures of the king; of which he often complained. Neither was his court more fplendid than thofe of the two firft, who are the moft powerful Chiefs in the iflands ; and, next to them, Feenou, Mareewagee's fon, feemed to ftand higheft in authority. But, however independent on the defpotic power of the king the great men may be, wc faw inflanccs enough to prove, that the lower order of people have no property, nor fafety for their perfons, but at the will of the Chiefs to whom they refpectively belong.
Tongataboo is divided into many diftricts; of above thirty of which we learned the names. Each of thefe has its particular Chief, who decides differences, and diftributcs juf-tice within his own diftrict. But we could not form any fatisfactory judgment about the extent of their power in general, or their mode of proportioning punifhmcnts to crimes. Moft of thefe Chiefs have pofleffions in other iflands, from whence they draw fupplies. At leaft, wc know this is fo with refpect to the king, who, at certain eftabliuh-ed times, receives the product of his diftant domains at Tongataboo ; which is not only the principal place of his refidence, but, feemingly, of all the people of confequence amongft thefe ifles. Its inhabitants, in common convcrfation, call it the Land of Chiefs while the fubordinate ifles are .diftinguifhed by the appellation of Lands of Servants.
6 Thefe
Thefe Chiefs arc, by the people, flyled not only Lords of the Earth, but of the Sun and Sky ; and the king's family affume the name of Futtafaihe, from the God fo called, who is probably their tutelary patron, and perhaps their common anceftor. The fovcreign's peculiar earthly title is, however, fimply Tooee Tonga,
There is a decorum obferved in the prefence of their principal men, and particularly of their king, that is truly admirable. Whenever he fits down, whether it be in an houfe, or without, all the attendants feat themfelves, at the fame time, in a femicircle before him j leaving always a convenient fpace between him and them, into which no one attempts to come, unlefs he has fome particular bufinefs. Neither is any one allowed to pafs, or fit, behind him, nor even near him, without his order or permiflion ; fo that our having; been indulged with this privilege, was a fignificant proof of the great refpecf that was paid us. When any one wants to fpeak with the king, he advances and fits down before him ; delivers what he has to fay in a few words ; and, having received his anfwer, retires again to the circle. But if the king fpeaks to any one, that perfon anfwers from his feat, unlefs he is to receive fome order; in which cafe he gets up from his place, and fits down before the Chief with his legs acrofs; which is a pofture to which they are fo much accuf-tomcd, that any other mode of fitting is difagrccable to them To fpeak to the king ftanding, would be accounted here as a flriking mark of rudenefs, as it would be, with us, for one to fit down and put on his hat, when he addfeffes himfelf to his fuperior, and that fuperior on his feet, and uncovered.
• '1 'his is peculiar to the men ; the women always fitting with both legs throw/, a little on one fide.   We owe this remark to Captain King
It
It docs nor, indeed, appear, that any of the mofl civilized nations, have ever exceeded this people, in the great order obferved, on all occafions ; in ready compliance with the commands of their Chiefs ; and in the harmony that fubfifls throughout all ranks, and unites them, as if thev were all one man, informed with, and direeled by, the fame principle. Such a behaviour is remarkably obvious, whenever it is rcquifitc that their Chiefs mould harangue any body of them collected together, which is frequently done. The mofl profound filcncc and attention is obferved during the harangue, even to a much greater degree than is prac-tifed amongfl us, on the mod intcrcfling and ferious deliberations of our mod refpectable affemblies. And, whatever might have been the fubject of the fpeech delivered, we never faw an infTance, when any individual prefent, fhewed figns of his being difpleafcd, or that indicated the leafl inclination to difpute the declared will of a perfon who had a right to command. Nay, fuch is the force of thefe verbal laws, as 1 may call them, that I have feen one of their Chiefs exprefs his being aftonifhed, at a perfon's having acted contrary to fuch orders; though it appeared, that the poor man could not poflibly have been informed, in time, to have obferved them*.
Though fome of the more potent Chiefs may vie with the king in point of actual poffcflions, they fall very fhort in rank, and in certain marks of refpect, which the collective body have agreed to pay the monarch. It is a particular privilege annexed to his fovercignty, not to be punctured,
• Cantova gives us the fame account of the profound fubmiiTion of the Caroline 1 flanders, to the orders of the Ta?nole. " Ils reeoivent fes ordres avec le plus pro-l' fond refpect.   Scs paroles font autant d'oracles, qu'on revere."
Lettres Edijiuntes & Curieufes^ Tom. xv. p. 312.
nor
nor circumcifcd, as all his fubjects are.   Whenever he walks out, every one whom he meets* muft fit down till he has palled.   No one is allowed to be over his head ; on the contrary, all muft come under his feet; for there cannot be a greater outward mark of fubmiflion, than that which is paid to the fovereign, and other great people of thefe iflands, by their inferiors.   The method is this; the perfon who is to pay obeifancc, fquats down before the Chief, and bows the head to the fole of his foot; which, when he fits, is fo placed, that it can be cafily come at; and, having tapped, or touched it with the under and upper fide of the fingers of both hands, he rifes up, and retires.   It fhould feem, that the king cannot refufe any one who choofes to pay him this homage, which is called moe moea ; for the common people would frequently take it into their heads to do it when he was walking ; and he was always obliged to flop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had performed the ceremony.   This, to a heavy unwieldy man, like Poulaho, muft be attended with fome trouble and pain; and I have, fometimes, feen him make a run, though very unable, to get out of the way, or to reach a place where he might conveniently fit down.   The hands, after this application of them to the Chief's feet, are, in fome cafes, rendered ufclefs for a time; for, until they be wafhed, they muft not touch any kind of food.   This interdiction, in a country wdierc water is fo icarce, would feem to be attended with fome inconvenience ; but they are never at a lofs for a fuccedaneum; and a piece Of any juicy plant, which they can cafily procure immediately, being rubbed upon them, this ferves for the purpofe of purification, as well as wafhing them with water.   When the hands are in this ftate, Vol. I.' 3 G they
they call it taboo rema. Taboo, in general, fignifies forbidden ^ and rarta is their word for hand.
When the taboo is incurred, by paying obeifance to a great, pcrfonage, it is thus eafdy warned off. But, in fome other cafes, it mud neccflarily continue for a certain time. We have frequently feen women, who have been taboo rema, fed by others. At the expiration of the time, the interdicted perfon wafhes herfelf in one of their baths, which are dirty holes, for the mofl: part, of brackifli water. She then waits upon the king, and, after making her obeifance in the ufual way, lays hold of his foot, and applies it to her bread, moulders, and other parts of her body. He then embraces her on each moulder; after which lhe retires, purified from her uncleannefs. I do not know, that it is always neceffary to come to the king for this purpofe; though Omai alfured me it was. If this be fo, it may be one reafon why he is, for the mod part, travelling from ifland to iiland. I faw this ceremony performed, by him, two or three times ; and once by Fcenou, to one of his own women; but as Omai was not then with me, I could not afk the occafion.
Taboo, as I have before obferved, is a word of an extenfivc iignification, Fluman facrifices are called tangata taboo; and when any thing is forbidden to be eat, or made ufe of, they. Cay, that it is taboo. They tell us, that, if the king fhould happen to go into a houfe belonging to a fubjec"l, that houfe would be taboo, and could never more be inhabited by the owner; fo that, wherever he travels, there are particular houfes for his reception. Old Toobou, at this time, pre-iided over the taboo, that is, if Omai comprehended the matter rightly, he and his deputies infpected all the produce of the iiland; taking care that every man fhould cul-
a tivate
-tivate and plant his quota; and ordering what fhould be eat, and what not. By this wife regulation, they effectually guard againft a famine j a fufficient quantity of ground is employed in raifing provifions; and every article, thus raifed} is fecured from unneceffary waftc.
By another prudent regulation, in their Government, they have an officer over the police ; or fomething like it. This department, when we were amongft them, was admi-niftered by Feenou; whofe bufincfs, we were told, it was, to punifh all offenders, whether againft the ftate, or againft individuals. He was alfo Generaliffimo, and commanded the warriors, when called out upon fervice ; but, by all accounts, this is very feldom. The king, frequently, took fome pains to inform us of Feenou's office; and, among other things, told us, that if he himfelf fhould become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I underftood, by this cxpref-fion of being a bad man, was, that, if he did not govern according to law, or cuftom, Feenou would be ordered, by the other great men, or by the people at large, to put him ro death. 1 here fhould feem to be no doubt, that a Sovereign, thus liable to be controuled, and puniflied for an abufe of power, cannot be called a defpotic monarch.
When we confidcr the number of iflands that compofe this little ftate, and the diftance at which fome of them lie from the feat of Government, attempts to throw off the yoke, and to acquire independency, it fhould feem, might be apprehended. But they tell us, that this never happens. One reafon why they are not thus disturbed, by domeflic quarrels, may be this: That all the powerful Chiefs, as we have already mentioned, refide at Tongataboo. They alfo fecure the dependence of the other iflands, by the celerity cf their operations; for if, at any time, a troublefome and
3 G 2 popular
mf*    popular man mould flart up, in any of them, Feenou, or w~v——> whoever holds his office, is immediately difpatched thither to kill him.   By this means, they crufh a rebellion in its very infancy.
The orders, or claffes, amongft their Chiefs, or thofe who call themfelves fuch, feemed to be almoft as numerous as amongft us ; but there are few, in comparifon, that arc lords of large diftricls j&f territory; the reft holding their lands under thofe principal barons, as they may be called. I was, indeed, told, that when a man of property dies, every tiling he leaves behind him falls to the king ; but that it is ufual to give it to the cldeft fon of the deceafed, with an obligation to make a provifion, out of it, for the reft of the children. It is not the cuftom here, as at Otaheite, for the fon, the moment he is born, to take from the father the homage and title; but he fucceeds to them, at his deceafc ; fo that their form of government is not only monarchical, but hereditary.
The order of fucceffion to the crown, has not been of late interrupted ; for we know, from a particular circumftancc, that the Futtafaihes (Poulaho being only an addition, to dif-tinguifh the king from the reft of his family) have reigned, in a direct line, for, at leaft, one hundred and thirty-five years. Upon inquiring, whether any account had been prcferved amongft them, of the arrival of Tafman's fhips, we found, that this hiftory had been handed down to them, from their anceftors, with an accuracy which marks, that oral tradition may fometimes be depended upon. For they defcribed the two fhips, as rcfcmbling ours ; mentioning the place where they had anchored; their having ftaid but a few clays; and their moving from that flation to Annamooka.   And, by way of informing us how long ago this
had
had happened, they told us the name of the Futtafaihe !777-who was then king, and of thofe who had fucceeded, down u— to Poulaho, who is the fifth fince that period ; the firfl: being an old man, at the time of the arrival of the fhips.
From what has been faid of the prefent king, it would be natural to fuppofe, that he had the higheft rank of any perfon in the iflands. But, to our great furprize, we found it is not fo ; for Latoolibooloo, the perfon who was pointed out to me as king, when I firfl vifited Tongataboo, and three women, are, in fome refpects, fuperior to Poulaho himfelf. On our inquiring, who thefe extraordinary perfonages were, whom they diflinguifh by the name and title of Tammaha* ? we were told, that the late king, Poulaho's father, had a lifter of equal rank, and elder than himfelf $ that fhe, by a man who came from the ifland of Feejee, had a fon and two daughters; and that thefe three perfons, as well as their mother, rank above Futtafaihe the king. We endeavoured, in vain, to trace the reafon of this fingular preeminence of the Tammahas ; for wc could learn nothing befides this account of their pedigree. The mother, and one of the daughters, called Toocela-kaipa, live at Vavaoo. Latoolibooloo, the fon, and the other daughter, whofe name is Moungoula-kaipa, refide at T6ngataboo. The latter, is the woman who is mentioned to have dined with me on the 21ft of June. This gave occafion to our difcovering her fu-pcriority over the king, who would not eat in her prefence, though flic made no fcruplc to do fo before him, and received from him the cuftomary obeifance, by touching her foot.   We never had an opportunity of feeing him pay this
* Tlie reader need not be reminded that Tamoloa, which fignifies a Chief, in the ilialect of Hamao, and Tammaha, become the fame word, by the change of a fingle letter, the articulation of which is not very ilrongly marked.
i "mark
mark of refpect to Latoolibooloo; but we have obferved him leave off eating, and have his victuals put afide, when the latter came into the fame houfe. Latoolibooloo affumed the privilege of taking any thing from the people, even if it belonged to the king; and yet, in the ceremony called Natche, he aflifted only in the fame manner as the other principal men. He was looked upon, by his countrymen, as a madman ; and many of his actions feemed to confirm this judgment. At Eooa, they fliewed me a good deal of land, faid to belong to him ; and I faw there a fon of his, a child, whom they diftinguifhed by the fame title as his father. The fon of the greatefl: Prince in Europe could not be more humoured and careffed than this little Tam~ Miaba was.
The language of the Friendly Iflands, has the grcateft affinity imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea; and, confequcntly, to that of Otaheite, and the Society Iflands. There are alfo many of their words the fame with thofe ufed by the natives of Cocos Ifland, as appears from the vocabulary collected there by Le Maire and Schouten*. The mode of pronunciation differs, indeed, confiderably, in many inftanccs, from that both of New Zealand, and Otaheite; bur, flill, a great number of words
* Sec this vocabulary, at the end of Vol. ii. of Dalrymplc's Collection of Voyages. And yet, though Tafman's people ufed the words of" this vocabulary, in fpeaking to the natives of Tongataboo (his Arnfterdam), we are told, in the accounts of his voyage, that they did not underftand one another. A circumitance worth obferving, as it fliews how cautious we fhould be, upon the fcanty evidence afforded by fuch franflent viftts as Tafman's, and, indeed, as thofe of moft of the fubfequent navigators of the Pacific Ocean, to found any argument about the affinity, or want of affinity, of the languages of the different iflands. No one, now, will venture to fay, that a Cocos man, and one of Tongataboo, could not understand each other. Some bf the words of Horn Ifland, another of Schouten's difcoveries, alfo belong to the riialeer. ©f Tongataboo.   See Dalrymple, as above.
are
arc either exactly the fame, or fo little changed, that their common original may be fatisfactorily traced. The language, as fpoken at the Friendly Iflands, is fufficiently copious, for all the ideas of the people; and we had many proofs of its being eafily adapted to all mufical purpofes, both in fong and in recitative; befides being harmonious enough in common converfation. Its component parts, as-far as our fcanty acquaintance with it enabled us to judge, are not numerous; and, in fome of its rules, it agrees with other known languages. As, for inftancc, we could cafily difcern the feveral degrees of comparifon, as ufed in the Latin; but none of the inflections of nouns and verbs;
We were able to collect' feveral hundreds of the words ; and, amongfl thefe, are terms that cxprefs numbers as far as a hundred thoufand; beyond which they never would reckon. It is probable, indeed, that they are not able to go farther; for, after having got thus far, we obferved, that they commonly ufed a word which expreffes an indefinite number. A fhort fpecimcn, felccted from the larger vocabulary, is here inferted, with the correfponding words, of the fame fignifrcation, as ufed at Otaheite, on the oppofite column ; which, while it will give, as we may fay, ocular demonflration of their being dialects of the fame language, will, at the fame time, point out the particular letters, by the infertion, omiflion, or alteration of which, the variations of the two dialects, from each other, have been effected.
It muff be obferved, however, that our vocabularies, of 1 this fort, muft neceffarily be liable to great miftakes. The ideas of thofe, from whom we were to learn the words,
were
were fo different from ours, that it was difficult to fix them to the object, of inquiry. Or, if this could be obtained, to learn an unknown tongue, from an inftructor who did not know a fingle word of any language that his fcholar was converfant with, could not promifc to produce much. But even, when thefe difficulties were furmounted, there flill remained a fruitful fource of miflake. I mean, inaccuracy in catching, exactly, the true found of a word, to which our ears had never been accuflomcd, from perfons whofe mode of pronunciation was, in general, fo indiflinct, that it feldom happened that any two of us, in writing down the fame word, from the fame mouth, made ufe of the fame vowels, in reprefenting it. Nay, we even, very commonly, differed about confonants, the founds of which arc leafl liable to ambiguity. Befides all this, we found, by experience, that wc had been led into ftrange corruptions of fome of the mofl common words, cither from the natives endeavouring to imitate us, or from our having mifunderftood them. Thus, cheeto was univerfally ufed by us, to exprefs a thief, though totally different from the real word, in the language of Tongataboo. The miflake arofe from a prior one, into which we had run, when at New Zealand, for though the word that fignifics thief there, be abfolutely the fame that belongs to the dialect of the Friendly Iflands (being kacehaa at both places), yet| by fome blunder, we had ufed the word teetc, firft at New Zealand, and, afterward, at Tongataboo, on our arrival there. The natives, endeavouring to imitate us, as nearly as they could, and fo fabricating the word cbecto, this, by a complication of miftakes, was adopted by us as their own. All poflible care has been taken to make the following tabic as correct as poflible :
Englifh.
Englifh. Friendly Iflands.
The fun,	Elaa,
Fire,	Eafoi,
Thunder,	Fatoore,
Rain,	Ooha,
The windy	Matangee,
Warm,	Mafanna,
The clouds,	Ao,
Land,	Fonooa,
Water,	Avy,
Sleep,	Mohc,
A man,	Tangata,
A woman,	Vcfaine,
A young girl,	Tahcinc,
A fervant, or perfon of\	► Tooa,
mean rank, !	
The dawn, or day~break, Alio,	
The hair,	Fooroo,
The tongue,	Elelo,
The ear,	Tareenga,
The beard,	Koomoo,
The fea,	Tahee,
A boat, or canoe,	Wakka,
Black,	Oolc,
Red,	Goola,
A lance, or fpear,	Tao,
A parent,	Motooa,
What is that ?	Kohacca ?
To hold faft,	Amou,
To wipe, or clean any 1	Floro,
thing, j	
Vol. i.	3 H
Otaheite,
Eraa.
Eahoi.
Pateerc.
Eooa.
Mataee.
Mahanna.
Eao.
Fcnooa.
Evy.
Moe.
Faata.
Waheine.
Toonea.
Toutou, or teou.
Aou.
Eroroo.
Ercro.
Tareea.
Ooma.
Taec.
Evaa.
Ere.
Oora, oora. Tao. Madooa. Yahaeea? Mou. •
Iloroee.
Englifli.
Englifli.
Friendly Iflands.
Otaheite.
To rife up,
To cry, ox find tears,
To eat, or cheiv,
Test
No,
Tou9
h
Ten,
Etoo,
Tangee,
Eky,
Ail
Raee,
Koe,
Ou,
Ongofooroo,
Ai. Aee. Oe. Wou.
A too.
Tacc.
Ey.
Ahooroo.
Having now concluded my remarks on thefe iflands and people, I fhall take my final leave of them, after giving fome account of the agronomical and nautical obfervations that were made during our ftay.
And, firfl, I muff take notice, that the difference of longitude, between Annamooka and Tongataboo, is fomewhat lefs than was marked in the chart and narrative of my laft: voyage. This error might cafily arife, as the longitude of each was then found without any connection with the other. But, now, the diftance between them is determined to a degree of prccifion, that excludes all poflibility of miftake ; which the following table will ill u ft rate :
The latitude of the obfervatory at Tongataboo, by the mean of feveral obfervations,      -       -      -   21°   8' 19" South.
The longitude, by the mean of one hundred and thirty one fets of lunar obfervations, amounting' to above a thoufand obferved dif-tances, between the moon, fun, and ftars,      -     -     -     -       184 55 18 Eaft.
The
The difference of longitude, made by the time-keeper, between the above obfervatory, and that at Annamooka,        - o° i(>' o"
Hence, the longitude of Annamo-
ka is - - -        - i$$   11   18 Eafl..
By the time- J Greenwich rate,   -   186   12 27 keeper it is, c New Zealand rate,   184  37 o
Its latitude - 20  15 o
N. B. The obfervatory at Tongataboo was near the middle of the North fide of the ifland ; and that at Annamooka, on its Wefl: fide; but the chart will elucidate this.
The time-keeper was too flow for mean time at Greenwich, on the firfl of July at noon, by 12'' 34™ 33s,2 ; and her daily rate, at that time, was lofing, on mean time, iw,783 per day. This rate will now be ufed for finding the longitude by the time-keeper; and 1840 55' 18", or i2h io,m 41*,2, will be taken as the true longitude of Tongataboo, Eafl from Greenwich.
By the mean of feveral obfcrvations, the South end of the needle was found to dip ^ f Lefooga, one of the Hapaee iflands, 360 $$' i Tongataboo, - 39 i±.
The variation of the compafs was found to be
"Annamooka, on board,   - -   8° 30' 3^" Eafl*
Anchor off Kotoo, between 7 0
L    - 8 12 294 Annamooka and Flapace, \
At ^
Anchor off Lefooga,       -       - 10 11 40
Tongataboo, on board,      -       - 9 44 5'.
Ditto, on fhore,      -      -      - 10 12 58
3 H 2 I can
I can aflign no reafon why the variation is fo much lefs at, and near, Annamooka, than at either of the other two places. I can only fay, that there is no fault in the obfcrvations ; and that the variation ought to be more at Annamooka than the above, as it has been found to be fo to the Northward, Southward, Eaftward, and Weftward of it. But difagreemcnts in the variation, greater than this, even in the fame needle, have been often obferved. And I fhould not have taken notice of this inftance, but from a belief that the caufe, whatever it is, exifts in the place, and not in the needles; for Mr. Bayly found the fame, or rather more difference.
The tides arc more confiderable at thefe iflands, than at any other of my difcoveries in this ocean, that Jie within the tropics. At Annamooka it is high water, on the full and change days, nearly at fix o'clock; and the tide rifes and falls there, upon a perpendicular, about fix feet. In the harbour of Tongataboo, it is high water, on the full and change days, at fifty minutes paft fix. The tide rifes and falls, on thofe days, four feet nine inches; and three feet fix inches at the Quadratures. In the channels between the iflands, which lie in this harbour, it flows near tide and half tide ; that is, the flood continues to run up ne/ir three hours, after it is high water by the fhore; and the ebb continues to run down, after it is flood by the fhore. It is only in thefe channels, and in a few other places near the fhores, that the motion of the water or tide is perceivable ; fo that I can only guefs at the quarter from which the flood comes. In the road of Annamooka, it fets Weft South Weft, and the ebb the contrary; but it falls into the harbour of Tongataboo from the North Weft, 5 paffes
paiTes through the two narrow channels, on each fide of \777*
July.
Hoolaiva, where it runs with confiderable rapidity, and '-»-\
then fpends itfelf in the lagoon. The ebb returns the fame way, and runs with rather greater force. The North Weft tide is met, at the entrance of the lagoon, by one from the Eaft ■, but this, as I have before obferved, was found to be very inconfiderable.
END   OF   THE   FIRST VOLUME*