VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. UNDERTAKEN, BY THE COMMAND OF HIS MAJESTY, FOR MAKING Difcoveries in the Northern Hemifphere. to determine 'he Position and Extent of the West Side of North America ; its Distance from Asia ; and the Practicability of a K \ Northern Passage to Europe. I/VC.EAL 1 liiHl WTUFIvi performed under the direction of £ Vi> ^/ Captains COOK, C L E R K E, and GORE, f\J4n his Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY, In the Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, 1780. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. and II. written by Captain JAMES COOK, F.R.S. VOL. III. by Captain JAMES KING, LL. D. and F.R.S. Illuftrated with Maps and Charts, from the Original Drawings made by Lieut. Henrv roberts, under the Direction ofCaptain Cook ; and with a great Variety of Portraits of Perfons, Views of Places, and Hirtorical Representations of Remarkable Incidents, drawn by Mr. Webber during the Voyage, and engraved by the molt eminent Aitiits. Published by Order of th'e Lords Coinmiflioners of the Admiralty. V O L. II. LONDON: PRINTED BY W. AND A. STRAHAN: FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER to HIS MAJESTY, IN THE strand) AND T. C A DELL, IN THE STRAND. mdcclxxxiv. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. BOOK III. Tranfa&ions at Otaheite, and the Society Iflands; and Profecution of the Voyage to the Coaft of North America. CHAP. I. jfNEclipfe of the Moon cbferved.—The Ifland Toobouai difcovered, —Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance.*—~Intercourfe with its Inhabitants. — Their Perfons, Dreffes, and Canoes, defcribed,— Arrival in Oheitepeha Bay at Otaheite.—Omais Reception, and imprudent Conduci.—Account of Spanijh Ships twice viftting the Ifland.—Interview with the Chief of this Diftricl.—The Olla, or God of Bolabola,—A mad Prophet,—Arrival at Matavai Bay, Page i CHAP. II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Ifland,—Imprudent Conduci of Omai.—Employments on Shore.-^Europe an Animals landed.—Particulars about a Native who had vifited Lima.-—Abmt Oedidec, —A Revolt in Eimeo.—tWar with that I/land determined upon, in A 2 a Council d Council of Chiefs.—A human Sacrifice on that Account.—A par* ticular Relation of the Ceremonies at the great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered.—Other barbarous Cufloms of this People. 21 CHAP. III. Conference with Towha.—Heevas defcribed.—Omai and Oedidee give Dinners.—Fireworks exhibited.—A remarkable Prefent of Cloth.—Manner of preferving the Body of a dead Chief—Another human Sacrifice.—Riding 011 Horfeback.—Otoo*s Attention to fupply Provifions, and prevent Thefts —Animals given to him.—Etaryt and the Deputies of a Chief have Audiences.—A Mock-fight of two War Canoes.—Naval Strength of thefe Iflands.-—Manner of conduci ing a War, 46 CHAP. IV, The Day of failing fixed.—Peace made with Eimeo.—Debates about it, mid Otnas Conduci blamed.—A Solemnity at the Morai on the Occqjion, defcribed by Mr. King.—Obfervations upon it.—Inflmice of Otoo's Art.—Oma'Cs War Canoe, and Remarks upon his Behaviour.—Oiods Prefent, and Meffage to the King of Great Britain. —Refieclions on our Manner of Traffic, and on the good Treatment we met with at Ot ah cite.—Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards.—Their Ficlions to depreciate the Englifh.—Wifl^es ex-preffed that no Settlement may be made.—Omais fealoufy of another 'Traveller. 61 CHAP. V. Arrha/ at Eimeo.—Two Harbours there, and an Account of them.— Vijit from Maheirte, Chief of the I/land.—His Perfon defcribed.— . A Goat fiolen, and font back.with the Thief—Another Goat Jiolcn% and fecreted.—M'afures taken on the Occa/ion.—-Expedition crofs the I/land.—Houfes and Canoes burnt.—The Goat delivered up, and Peace refiored.—Some Account of the Ifland, &c. 79 CHAP. VI. Arrival at Huabcine.—Council of the Chiefs.—Omai's Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs.—His Ffiabllfhment in this [/land agreed to, —A Houfe built, and Garden planted for him.—Singularity of his Situation —Meafures taken to infure his Safety.—Damage done by Cock-roaches, on board the Ships.—A Thief detected andpuriifhed, —Fire-works exhibited.—Animals left with Omai.—His Family.— Weapons.—Inscription on his Houfe.—His Behaviour on the Ship's leaving the Ifland.—Summary View of his Conduci, and Character. —Account of the two New Zealand Youths. g i CHAP. VII. Arrival at Ulietea.—Aftronomical Obfervations.—A Marine deferts, and delivered up.—Intelligence from Omai.—Infiruclions to Captain Clerke.—Another Defrtion of a Midjhipman and a Seaman.— Three of the Chief Perfons of the If and confined on that Account. —A Dcf-'ii cu fcUc Captains Cook and Gierke, difcovered.—The two Deferters brought back, and the Prifoners releafcd.—The Ships fiul.—Refrefilj?nents received at Ulietea.—Prefent and former State of that Ifland.—Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of Huabcine. « 11 % C II A P. VIII. Arrival at Bolabo?a.—Interview with Opoony.—Reafons for pur-chafing Monfeur de Bougainville's Anchor,—Departure from (he Society Iflands.—Particulars about Bofabola.—Hiflory of the Con-queft of Otaha and Ulietea.~~High Reputation of the Botabola Man. —Animals left there, and at Ulietea.—Plentiful Supply of Provi-fions, and Manner of fait ing Pork on board.—Various Refections relative to Otahcite, and the Society Iflands.—Af.ronomical and nautical Obfervations made there. izj- C H A P. IX. .Accounts of Otaheite fill imperfecl.—The prevailing Winds.—Beauty of the Country.—Cultivation.—Natural Curioftties.—The Perfons of the Natives.—Difeafes.—General Character.—Love of Plea-fure.—Language.—Surgery and Phyfc.—Articles of Food.—Ef-feels of drinking Ava.—Times and Manner of Eating.—Conneclions vuith the Females.—Circumcifon.—Syjlem of Religion.—Notions about the Soul and a future Life.—Various Super/lit ions,—Traditions about the Creation.—An hifiorical Legend.—Honours paid t» the King.—Diflinclion of Ranks.—Punifhment of Crimes.—Peculiarities of the neighbouring Iflands—Names of their Gods.—Names of Iflands they v fit.—Extent of their Navigation. 144 C PI A P. X. Progrefs of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Iflands.—Chri/l mas If and difcovered, and Station of the Ships there—JJoats fent affjore.—Great Succefs in catching Turtle.—An Eclipfe of the Sun . obferved.—Dijirefs of two Seamen, who had loft their Way.—In- fcription left in a Bottle.—Account-of the Ifland.—Its Soil—'Trees and Plants.—Birds.—Its Size.—Form.—Situation.—Anchoring- ground. 170 C H A P. XI. Some Iflands difcovered.—Account of the Natives of Atooi, who come off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on board.—One of them killed.—Precautions ufed to prevent Intercourfe with the Females.—A Watering-place found.—Reception upon landing.—Ex-curfon into the Country.— A Morai vifited and dfcribed.—Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human Sacrifices, there buried.—Another Ifland, called Oneehow, vifited.—Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to the Ships.—Reafons for believing that they are Cannibals.—A Party fent affjore, who remain two Nights.—-Account of what paffd on landing.—The Ships leave the Iflands, and proceed to the North. ] iqo CHAP. XII. The Situation of the Iflands novo difcovered*—Their Names.—Called' the Sandwich Iflands.—Atooi defcribed.—The Soil.—Climate__Vegetable Productions.—Bints,—Fifh.—Domcfic Animals.—Perfons of the Inhabitants.—Their Dfpofition.—Drefs,—Ornaments.—Habitations.—Food.—'Cookery.—Amufements.—Manufaclures.—Working-tools.—Knowledge of Iron accounted for.—Canoes.—Agriculture. —Account of one of their Chiefs.—Weapons.—Cufoms agreeing with thofe of Tongataboo, and Otaheite.—Their Language the fame.— Extent of this Nation throughout the Pacific Ocean.—Reftecllons on the ufeful Situation of the Sandwich Iflands. 221 CHAP. XIII. Obfervations made at the Sandwich Iflands, on the Longitude, Variation of the Compafs, and Tides,—Profecution of the Voyage,—Remarks on the Mildnefs of the Weather, as far as the Latitude 44° North.—Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern Ilemifphere,— Small Sea Animals defcribed,—Arrival on the Co^Ji of America,--- Appearance of the Country,—Unfavourable Winds, and boiferous Weather,—Remarks on Martin de Aguillar's River, and Juan de Fuca*s pretended Strait.—An Inlet difcovered, where- the Ships anchor*—Behaviour of the Natives, 253 BOOK IV, Tranfadtions amongft the Natives of North America; Difcoveries along that Coaft and the Eaftern Extremity of Afia, Northward to Icy Cape; and Return Southward to the Sandwich Iilands, CHAP. I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.—Inter courfe with the Natives.—Articles brought to barter.—Thefts committed.—The jf Obferva- Obfervatories creeled, and Carpenters fet to work.—fealoufy of the Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other Tribes having Inter courfe with the Ships.—Stormy and rainy Weather.—Progrefs round the Sound.—Behaviour of the Natives at their Villages.—Their Manner of drying Fifh, &c\—Remarkable Viftt from Strangers, and intro-dutlory Ceremonies.—A fecond Viftt to one of the Villages.—Leave to cut Grafs j pur chafed. — The Ships fail.—Prefents given and received at parting. 269 chap. 11. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for failing into it.—Account of the adjacent Country.—Weather.—Climate.—Trees—Other vegetable Productions.— Quadrupeds, whofe Skins were brought for Sale.—Sea Animals.—Defeription of a Sea Otter.—Birds—Water Fowl—Fflj.—Shellfflo, &c—Reptiles.—Infeels.—Stones, &c— Perfons of the Inhabitants.—Their Colour.—Common Drefs and Ornaments. — Occafional Drejfcs, and monfrous Decorations of wooden Majh.—Their general Difpofitions.—Songs—Mufical In-* Jlruments.—7"heir Eager-nefs to pojjefs Iron and other Metals. 288 chap. iii. Manner of building the Houfes in No:—Charts of the Ruffian Difcoveries, communicated by Mr. Ifmyloff, Their Errors pointed out.—Situation of the Iflands vifited by the Ruffians.—Account of their Settlement at Oonalafljka.*—Of the Natives of the Ifland.—Their Perfons—Drefs.—Ornaments.—Food,— Houfcsy and domeftic XJtenfils.—Manufactures.—Manner of pro**-ducing Fire.—Canoes.*—Fifhing and hunting Implements.—Fifijes, and Sea Animals__Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.—Land Animals and Vegetables.*—Manner of burying the Dead.—Rcfem-blance of the Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Efquimaux.—Tides,—Obfervations for determining the longitude of Oonalafljka, 488 c ii a p. xii. Departure from Oonalafljka, and future Views.—The Ifland Amoghta. —Situation of a remarkable Rock.—The Strait between Oonalafljka and Oonella repaffed.—Progrefs to the South.—Melancholy Accident on board the Difcovery —Mowce, one of the Sandwich Iflands, difcovered.—Inter courfe with the Natives.—Viflt from Tcrreeoboo.—Another Ifland, called Owhyhee, difcovered._ The Ships ply to Windward to get round it.—An Eclipfe of the Moon obferved.—The Crews rcfufe to drink Sugar-cane Beer.— Cordage deficient in Strength.—Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee__The Refolution gets to Windward of the Ifland.—Her Progrefs down the South Eafl Coajl.—Views of the Country, and Viflts from the Natives.—The Difcovery joins.—Slow Progrefs Weflward.—Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr. Bligh,—Vaft Con-courfe of the Natives.—The Ships anchor in the Bay. 525 ERRATA. ?age 190. For CHAP. X. rratt CHAP. XI. — ill. For CHAP. XI. read CHAP. XII. VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK III. Tranfaftions at Otaheite, and the Society Iflands } and Profecution of the Voyage to the Coaft of North America. C H A P. I. An Eclipfe of the Moon obferved.—The IfandToobouai difcovered.—Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance,—Inter-couife with its Inhabitants.—Their Perfons, Drejfes, and Canoes, defcribed..—Arrival in Qheitepeha Bay at Otaheite.—Omais Reception, and imprudent Conduct.—Account of Spanifj Ships twice vifiting the If and.—Interview with the Chief of this Difricl,—The Olla, or God, of Bolabola.—A mad Prophet.—Arrival in Matavai Bay. n -ttAVING, as before related*, taken our final leave i777. -1 of the Friendly Iflands, I now rcfume my narra- ^J^Il_r w JL tivc of the voyage. In the evening of the 17th Thurfdayi?. of July, at eight o'clock, the hody of Eaoo bore North Eaft by North, distant three or four leagues. The wind was now . * See the conclufion of Chap. IX. Book II. Vol. II. m B at 1/ at Eaft, and blew a frcfh gale. With it i ftood to the South, July. 0 k^-^^j till half an hour paft fix o'clock the next morning, when myi ' a fudden fquall, from" the fame direction, took our fliip aback; and, before the fhips could be trimmed, on the other tack, the main-fail and the top-gallant fails were much torn. The wind kept between the South Weft, and South Eaft, Saturday 19. on the 19th and 20th; afterward, it veered to the Eaft, Sunday 20. North Eaft, and North. The night between the 20th and Monday 21. 2ift, an eclipfe of the moon was obferved as follows j being then in the latitude of 22* $7r South, Apparent time, A, M. H. M. S. Beginning, by Mr. King, at o 32 50I Mr. Bligh, at o 33 25^Meanlong. 1860 57! Myfelf, at o 33 35) End, by Mr.King, at 1 44 56*} _ , 0-0 0f, tv/, i,r S * r Mean long. 186 28^.'. Mr.Bhgh, at 1 44 6L , b * it-rAc \ r (Time keep. 1860 58^. Myfelf, at 1 44 56J r J 1 The latitude and longitude are thofe of the fhip, at 8" 56* A. M. being the time when the fun's altitude was taken for finding the apparent time. At the beginning of the eclipfe, the moon was in the zenith; fo that it was found moft convenient to make ufe of the fextants and to make the obfervations by the reflected image, which was brought down to a convenient altitude. The fame was done at the end; except by Mr. King, who obferved with a night telefcope. Although the greateft difference between our feveral obfervations, is no more than fifty feconds, it, neverthelefs, appeared to me, that two obfervers might differ more than double that time, in both the beginning and end. And, 8 though though the times are noted to fcconds, no fuch accuracy jg£ was pretended to. The odd feconds, fet down above, arofe x-ir- by reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent time. I continued to ftretch to the Faft South Eaft, with the wind Monday at North Eafl and North, without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till fcven o'clock in the evening of the 29th; Tuefday when we had a fudden and very heavy fquall of wind from the North. At this time, we were under fingle reefed top-fails, courfes, and flay-fails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces; and it was with difficulty that we favcd the other fails. After this fquall, we obferved feveral lights moving about on board the Difcovcry; by which we concluded, that fomething had given way ; and, the next morning, we wodnef. faw that her main-top-mart had teen loft. Both wind and weather continued very unfettled till noon, this day, when the latter cleared up, and the former fettled in the North Weft quarter. At this time, wc were in the latitude of 28° 6 South, and our longitude was 1980 23' Eaft. Here we faw fome pintado birds, being the firft fince we left the land. On the 31ft, at noon, Captain Gierke made a fignal to ThwHa fpeak with me. By the return of the boat, which I fent on board his fhip, he informed me, that the head of the main-maft had been juft difcovered to be fprung, in fuch a manner, as to render the rigging of another top maft very dangerous ; and that, therefore, he mufl rig fomething lighter in its place. He alfo informed me, that he had loft his main-top-gallant-yard ; and that he neither had another, nor a fpar to make one, on board. The Resolution's fprit-fail top-fail-yard, which I fent him, fupplicd this want. The Augu next day, he got up a jury top-matt, on which he fet a mizen- Friday 1 top-fail j and this enabled him to keep way with the Refolu-tion. B 2 The 4 avoyageto 1777. The wind was fixed in the Weflern board: that is, from Au£uft. v„—the North, round by the Weil to South, and I fleered Eafl North Eafl, and North Eaft, without meeting with any thing Friday 8. remarkable, till eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th of Augufl, when land was feen, bearing North North Eaft, nine or ten leagues diitant. At fiift, it appeared in detached hills, like fo many feparate iflands; but, as we drew nearer, we found, that they were all connected, and belonged to one and the fame illand. I (leered directly for it, with a fine gale at South Eafl by South j and, at half pad fix o'clock,, in the afternoon, it extended from North by Eafl, to North North Eafl I Eafl, diflant three or four leagues. The night was fpent (landing off and on; and, at day-Saturday 9. break:, the next morning, I fleered for the North Weft, or lee fide, of the ifland; and, as we ftood round its South or South Weft part, we faw it every wherifi guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending, in fome places, a full mile from the land, and a high furf breaking upon ir. Some thought that they faw land to the Southward of this ifland ; but, as that was to the windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we faw people on fevcral parts of the coaft, walking, or running along fhore; and, in a little time, after we had readied the lee-fide of the ifland, wc faw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled toward us. I now fhortencd fail, as well to give thefe canoes time to come up with us, as to found for anchorage. At the diflance of about half a mile from the reef, wc found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fa rid. Nearer in, the bottom was flrcwcd with coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the diflance of a piflol- fhot {hot from the (hip, there flopped. Omai was employed, as ffl he ufually had been on fuch occafions, to ufe all his elo- «-r quence to prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no intreaties could induce them to trufl ihcmfelves within our reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the lliore, with their paddles, and calling to us to go thither; and fe-veral of their countrymen, who flood upon the beach, held up fomething white, which we confidered alfo as an invitation to land. We could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without the reef, and a break or opening in ir, from whence the canoes had come out, which had no furf upon it, and where, if there was not water for the fhips, there was more than fuilicicnt for the boats. But I did not think proper to rifk lofmg the advantage of a fair wind, for the fake of examining an ifland, that appeared to be of lktle confequence. We flood in no need of refrefh-ments, if 1 had been fure of meeting with them there ; and having already been fo unexpectedly delayed in my progrefs to the Society Iflands, I was dcfirous of avoiding every poflibility of farther retardment. For this reafon, after making fevcral unfuccefsful attempts to induce thefe people to come along-fulc, I made fail to the North, and left them; but not without getting from them, during their vicinity to our fliip, the name of their ifland, which they called Too-bouai. Tt is fituatcd in the latitude of 23* 2/, South ; and in no 37', Eafl longitude. Its grcatcfl extent, in any direction, cxclufive of the reef, is not above five or fix miles. On the North Weil fide, the reef appears in detached pieces, between which, the fea feems to break upon the fhore. Small as the ifland is, there are hills in it of a confiderablc elevation. At the foot of the hills, is a narrow border of flat land,., Auguft kmd» running quite round it, edged with a white fand —beach. The hills are covered with grafs, or fome other herbage, except a few fleep, rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interfperfed to their fummits. But the plantations are more numerous, in fome of the vallies ; and the flat border is quite covered with high, flrong trees, whofe different kinds we could not difcern, except fome cocoa-palms, and a few of the ctoa. According to the information of the men in the canoes, their ifland is flocked with hogs and fowls j and produces the fevcral fruits and roots that are found at the other iflands in this part of the Pacific Ocean. We had an opportunity, from the converfation we had with thofe who came oil' to us, of fatisfying ourfelves, that the inhabitants of Toobouai fpeak the Otaheite language; a circumflance that indubitably proves them to be of the fame nation. Thofe of them whom we faw in the canoes, were a flout copper-coloured people, with flmight black hair, which fome of them wore tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and others, flowing about the moulders. Their faces were fomewhat round and full, but the features, upon the whole, rather flat; and their countenances fecmed to exprefs fome degree of natural ferocity. They had no covering but a piece of narrow fluff wrapped about the waifl, and made to pafs between the thighs, to cover the adjoining parts j but fome of thofe whom we faw upon the beach, whereabout a hundred perfons had aflembled, were • entirely clothed with a kind of white garment. We could obferve, that fome of our vifiters, in the canoes, wore pearl fhells, hung about the neck, as an ornament. One of them kept blowing a large eonch-fhell, to which a reed, near two feet long, was fixed ; at ilrft, with a continued tone of the fame fame kind; but he, afterward, converted it into a kind of mufical inftrument, perpetually repeating two or three notes, with the fame flrength. What the blowing the conch portended, I cannot fay; but I never found it the meffenger of peace. Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and two feet above the furface of the water, as they floated. The fore part projected a little, and had a notch cut acrofs, as if intended to reprefent the mouth of fome animal. The after-part rofc, with a gentle curve, to the height of two or three feet, turning gradually fmaller, and, as well as the upper part of the fides, was carved all over. The reft of the fides, which were perpendicular, were curioufly incruft-ated with flat white fhelis, difpofed nearly in concentric femicircles, with the curve upward. One of the canoes carried feven, and the other eight men ; and they were managed with fmall paddles, whofe blades were nearly round. Each of them had a pretty long outrigger; and they fometimes paddled, with the two oppofi.te fides together fo clofe, that they feemed to be one boat with two outriggers; the rowers, turning their faces occafionally to the ftern, and pulling that way, without paddling the canoes round. When they faw us determined to leave them, they ftood up in their canoes, and repeated fomething, very loudly, in concert j but we could not tell, whether this was meant as a mark of their friendfhip or enmity. It is certain, however, that they had no weapons with them; nor could we perceive, with our glalTes, that thofe on more had any. After leaving this ifland, from the difcovery of which, future navigators may poffibly derive fome advantage, I fteered to the North, with a frefh gale at Eafl by South, and, at »777; at day-break, in the morning of the isth, we faw the ifland Auguft. J ° —--' of Maitca. Soon after, Otaheite made its appearance ; and, u c l cl n. v 12 # at noon, it extended from South Weft by Weft, to Weft North Weft j the point of Ohcitepcha Bay bearing Weft, about four leagues diftant. I fleered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what refrefhments I could from the South Eafl part of the ifland, before I went down to Matavai; from the neighbourhood of which nation I expected my principal fupply. We had a frefh gale Eafterly, till two o'clock in the afternoon; when, being about a league from the bay, the wind fuddenly died away, and was fuccecded by baffling, light airs, from every direction, and calms, by turns. This lafted about two hours. Then we had fudden fqualls, with rain, from the Eaft. Thefe carried us before the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and attempted, in vain, to work in, to gain the an-choring-placc. So that, at laft, about nine o'clock, we were obliged to fland out, and to fpend the night at fea. When we firft drew near the ifland, fevcral canoes came olT to the fhip, each conducted by two or three men. But, ' as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They did nor, even, feem to perceive, that he was one of their countrymen, although they converted with him for fome time. At length, a Chief, whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this coi;ner of the ifland, and three or four more perfons, all of whom knew Omai, before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing cither tender or flriking in their meeting. On the contrary, there feemed to be a perfect indifference on both fides, till Omai, having taken his brctther down into the cabin, opened the drawer where 6 he he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being prefently known, amonglt the reft of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was intirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly fpeak to Omai before, now begged, that they might be tayos*, and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a pre fent of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, fent afhore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but his property, they were in love with. Had he not fhewn to them his treafurc of red feathers, which is the commodity in greateil cftimation at the ifland, I qucftion much whether they would have beftowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's fir ft reception amongfl his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be othcrwife ; but, flill, I was in hopes, that the valuable cargo of prefents, with which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would be the means of railing him into confcquencc. and of making him refpected, and even courted, by the fir It perfons throughout the extent of the Society Iflands. This could not but have happened, had he conducted himfelf with any degree of prudence. Bur, inftcad of ir, I am forry to fay, that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice ol thofe who wifhed him well, and fufFercd himfelf to be duped by every deftgning knave. From the natives who came off to us, in the courfe of this day, wc learnt, that two (hips had twice been in Oheitepeha Bay, fince my laft vifit to this iiland in 1774, and that they had left animals there, fuch as we had on board. But, on farther inquiry, we found, they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and the male of fome other animal, which, from Vol. If, * Friends. c the Augui tne imPerr"C(^: defcription now given us, we could not find out. v—J They told us, that thefe mips had come from a place called Rcema j by which we guelTcd, that Lima, the capital of Peru, was meant, and that thefe late vifiters were Spaniards. We were informed, that the fir ft time they came, they built a houfe, and left four men behind them, viz. two priefts, a boy or fervanr, and a fourth perfon, called Mateema, who was much fpoken of at this time; carrying away with them, when they failed, four of the natives; that, in about ten months, the fame two mips returned, bringing back two of the iftanders, the other two having died at Lima ; and that, after a fhort ftay, they took away their own people; but that the houfe, which they had built, was left ftanding. The important news, of red feathers being on board our fhips, having been conveyed on fhore by Omai^s friends, Wednef. 13, day had no fooner begun to break, next morning, than we were furrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people, bringing hogs and fruits to market. At firft, a quantity of feathers, not greater than v/hat might be got from a tom-tit, would purchafe a hog, of forty or fifty pounds weight. But, as almoft every body in the fhips was pofTefTed of fome of this precious article of trade, it fell, in its value, above five hundred per cent, before night. However, even then, the balance was much in our favour, and red feathers continued to preferve their fuperiority over every other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unlefs they received an axe in exchange ; but nails, and beads, and other trinkets, which, during our former voyages, had fo great a run at this iiland, were now fo much defpifed, that few would deign fo much as to look at them. There t. There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine »777i o'clock before we could get to an anchor in the bay; where \---* we moored with the two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's filler came on board to fee him. I was happy to obferve, that, much to the honour of them both, their meeting was marked with expreflions of the tenderer!: affection, eafier to be conceived than to be defcribed. This moving fcene having clofed, and the fliip being properly moored, Omai and I went afhore. My firfl object was to pay a vifit to a man whom my friend reprefented as a very extraordinary perfonage indeed, for he faid, that he "was the god of Bolabola. We found him feated under one of thofe fmall awnings, which they ufually carry in their larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lofl the ufe of his limbs; fo that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. Some called him Olla, or Orra, which is the name of the god of Bolabola ; but his own proper name was Etary. From Omai's account of this perfon, I expected to have feen fome religious adoration paid to him. But, excepting fome young plantain trees that lay before him, and upon the awning under which he fat, I could obferve nothing by which he might be diflinguifhed from their other Chiefs. Omai prefented to him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a fmall flick; but, after a little converfation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the filler of his mother. She wTas already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady, in the midfl of a number of people, who had gathered round him, and went to take a view of the houfe, faid to be built by the flrangers who had lately been here. I found it Handing at a fmall diflance C 2 from >777j from the beach. The wooden materials, of'which it was Attgllfti Till u—„—-> compofed, fcemed to have been brought hither, ready prepared, to be fet up occafionally ; for all the planks were numbered. It was divided into two fmall rooms ; and in the inner one were, a bed Read, a table, a bench, fome old hats, and other trifles, of which the natives feemed to be very careful, as aifo of the houfe itfelf, which had fullered no hurt from the weather, a ihed having been built over it. There were feutties all around, which fcrved as air holes; and, perhaps, they were alfo meant to fire from, with mufquets, if ever this mould have been found necefTary. At a little diilancc from the front, flood a wooden crofs, on the tranf-verfe part of which was cut the following infeription: Ch'xjiui i*7& *37* & 1 777-The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the crofs, the grave of the Commodore of the two fhips, who had died here, while they lay in the bay, the firft time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Orcede. Whatever the intentions of the Spaniards, in vifiting this iiland, might be, they feemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate them-felves with the inhabitants; who, upon every occafion, mentioned them with the flrongcft exprefhons of € flee m and veneration. 8 I met I met with no Chief of any confiderable note on this 0C-cafion, excepting the extraordinary perfonage above dc- ^—*— fcribcd. Wahciadooa, the fovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the ifland is called), was now abfentj and, I afterward found, that he was not the fame perfon, though of the fame name with the Chief whom I had feen here during my laft voyage; but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had fucceeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months before our arrival. We alfo learned, that the celebrated Obcrea was dead j but that Otoo, and all our other friends, were living. When I returned from viewing the houfe and crofs erected by the Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was with fome difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on board ; where I had an important affair to fettle. As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring iflands, could furnifh us with a plentiful fupply-of cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an excellent fuccedaneum for any artificial beverage, I was delirous of prevailing upon my people to confent to be abridged, during our flay here, of their flatcd allowance of fpirits to mix with water. But as this flop-page of a favourite article, without aiTigning fome reafon, might have occafioned a general murmur, I thought it moft prudent to afiemble the fhip's company, and to make known to them the intent of the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. To induce them to undertake which, with < heerfulnefs and pcrfeverance, I took notice of the rewards offered, by Parliament, to fuch of his Majcfly's fubjeets as (hall firft difcovcr a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the Northern '777- em hemifphere; and alfo to fuch as fliall fir ft penetrate be-Aogttft. 1 1 v.—^_* yond the 89111 degree of Northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I fhould find them willing to co-operate with me in attempting, as far as might be pof-fible, to become intitled to one or both thefe rewards ; but, that to give us the beft chance of fucceeding, it would be neceiTary to obferve the utmoft ceconomy in the expenditure of our ftores and proviftons, particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a fupply, any where, after leaving thefe iflands. I ftrengthencd my argument by reminding them, that our voyage muft laft at leaft a year' longer than had been originally fuppofed, by our having already loft the opportunity of getting to the North this fummer. I begged them to confidcr the various obftruc-tions and difficulties we might flill meet with, and the aggravated hardfhips they would labour under, if it fhould be found necelTary'to put them to fliort allowance, of any fpecics of provifions, in a cold climate. For thefe very fub-ftantial reafons, I fubmitted to them, whether it would not be better to be prudent in time, and rather than to run the rift of having no fpirits left, when fuch a cordial would be moft wanted, to confent to be without their grog now, when we had fo excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts to fubflitute in its place; but that, after all, I left the determination entirely to their own choice. 1 had the fatisfaction to find, that this propofal did not remain a fmgle moment under confideration; being unani-moufly approved of, immediately, without any objection. I ordered Captain Gierke to make the fame propofal to his people ; which they alfo agreed to. Accordingly, we flopped ferving grog, except on Saturday nights; when the companies companies of both fhips had full allowance of it, that they ^*777> might drink the healths of their female friends in England ; i-„-t left thefe, amongft the pretty girls of Otaheite, fhould be wholly forgotten. The next day, we began fome neccflary operations; to Thurfdayu-infpect the provifions that were in the main and fore hold; to get the cafks of beef and pork, and the coals, out of the ground tier ; and to put fome ballaft in their place. The caulkers were fet to work to caulk the fliip, which flic ftood in great need of; having, at times, made much water on our paffage from the Friendly Iflands. I alfo put on fhore the bull, cows, horfes, and fheep, and appointed two men to look after them while grazing; for I did not intend to leave any of them, at this part of the iiland. During the two following days, it hardly ever ceafed rain- i<,iday ing. The natives, neverthelefs, came to us from every Saturday 16. quarter, the news of our arrival having rapidly fpread. Waheiadooa, though at a diftance, had been informed of it; and, in the afternoon of the iGth, a Chief, named Etorea, under whofe tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as a prefent from him ; and acquainted me, that he himfelf would be with us the day after. And fo it proved ; for t received a melTagc from him the next morning, notifying Sunday 17. his arrival, and defiring I would go afhore to meet him. Accordingly, Omai and I prepared to pay him a formal viftt. On this occafion, Omai, aflifted by fome of his friends, dreffed himfelf; not after the Englifh fafhion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the drefs of any country upon earth; but in a ftrange medley of all that he was pofTefred of. 6 Thus Thus equipped, on our landing, we full vifited Etaryi who, carried on a hand-harrow, attended us to a large houfe, where he was fet down; and wc fcated ourfelves on each fide of htm. I caufed a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be fpread out before us, on which I laid the prcfents I intended to make. Prefcntly the young Chief came, attended by his mo.her, and fevcral principal men, who all feated themfelvcs, at the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who (at by me, made a fpeeeh, confiding of fliort and feparate fentences ; part of whieh was dictated by thofe about him. IJe was anfwered by one from the oppofite fide, near the Chief. Etary fpokc next; then Omai; and both of them were anfwered from the fame quarter. Thefe orations were entirely about my arrival, and connections with them. The perfon who fpokc laft, told me, amongft other things, that the men of Recma, that is, the Spaniards, had defired them not to Aider me to come into Oheitepeha Bay, if I fhould return any more to the ifland, for that it belonged to them ; but that they were fo far from paying any regard to this requelt, that he was authorized now to make a formal furrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks very plainly, that thefe people arc no ftrangers to the policy of accommodating themfelvcs to prefent circuniflanccs. At length, the young Chief was directed, by his attendants, to come and embrace me ; and, by way of confirming this treaty of friend-ihip, we exchanged names. The ceremony being clofcd, lie and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Omai had prepared a thah, compofed of red and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole ifland; and, confidcring where wc were, it was a prefent of of very great value. I faid all that I could to perfuade him gg^ not to produce it now, wifhing him to keep it on board till an »-,—*> opportunity fhould offer of prcfenting it to Otoo, with his own hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honelly and fidelity of his countrymen to take wiy advice. Nothing would ferve him, but to carry it afhore, on this occafion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the royal maro. He thought, by this management, that he mould oblige both Chiefs; whereas he highly difobligcd the one, whofe favour was of the mod confequence to .him, without gaining any reward from the other. What I had forefeen happened. For Waheiadooa kept the maro for himfelf, and only lent to Otoo a very fmall piece of feathers; not the twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent prefent. On the 19th, this young Chief made me a prefent of ten Tuefday 19-or a dozen hogs, a quantity of fruit, and fome cloth. In the evening, we played off fome fireworks, which both ado. nifhed and entertained the numerous fpcclators. This day, fome of our gentlemen, in their walks, found, what they were pleafed to call, a Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed, from their account, this was not to be doubted; for they defcribed the altar, and every other conflituent part of fuch a place of worfhip. However, as they mentioned, at the fame time, that two men, who had the care of it, would not fufTer them to go in, I thought that they might be miflaken, and had the curiofity to pay a vifit to it myfelf. The fuppofed chapel proved to be a toopapaoo, in which the remains of the late Waheiadooa lay, as it were, in flate. It was in a pretty large houfe, which was inclofed with a low pallifade. The toopapaoo was uncommonly neat, and refembled one Vol. II. D of of thofe little houfes, or awnings, belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps, it had originally been employed for that purpofe. It was covered, and hung round, with cloth and mats of different colours, fo as to have a pretty effect. There was one piece of fcarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length, confpicuous among!! the other ornaments; ■Which, no doubt, had been a prefent from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few taflels of feathers, which our Gentlemen fuppofed to be fdk, fuggefted to them the idea of a chapel; for whatever elfe was wanting to create a refem-blance, their imagination fupplied ; and if they had not previoufly known, that there had been Spaniards lately here, they could not poflibly have made the miflake. Small offerings of fruit and roots feemed to be daily made at this fhrine, as fome pieces were quite frefli. Thefe were depo-fited upon a ivhatta, or altar, which flood without the palli-fades; and within thefe we were not permitted to enter. Two men conflantly attended, night and day, not only to watch over the place, but alfo to drcfs and urtdrefs the toopapaoo. For when I firfl went to furvey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled up ; but, at my requefl, the two attendants hung it out in order, firfl drefling themfelves in clean white robes. They told me, that the Chief had been dead twenty months. Having taken in a frefli fupply of water, and fmifhed all our other necelfary operations, on the 22d, I brought olf the cattle and fheep, which had been put on fhore here to graze; and made ready for fea. In the morning of the 23d, while the fhips were unmooring, Omai and I landed, to take leave of the young Chief. V/hile we were with him, one of thofe cnthufiaflic perfons, 5 whom whom they call Eatooas, from a perfuauon that they are polfeffed with the fpirit of the divinity, came and flood before us. Fie had all the appearance of a man not in his right fenfes; and his only drefs was a large quantity of plantain leaves, wrapped round his waifl. He fpoke in a low, fqucaking voice, fo as hardly to be underilood ; ,at leail, not by me. But Omai faid, that he comprehended him perfectly, -and that he was advifing Waheiadooa not to go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never heard that he intended, nor had I ever made fuch a propofal to him. The Eatooa alfo foretold, that the fhips would not get to Matavai that day. But in this he was miftaken *, though appearances now rather favoured his prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. While he was prophefying, there fell a very heavy mower of rain, which made every one run for flicker, but himfelf, who feemed not to regard it. He remained fqucaking, by us, about half an hour, and then retired. No one paid any attention to what he uttered ; though fome laughed at him. I afked the Chief, what he was, whether an Earce, or a Tow tow ? and the anfwer I received was, that he was taata eno; that is, a bad man. And yer, notwithftanding this, and the little notice any of the natives feemed to take of the mad prophet, fuperflition has fo far got the better of their reafon, that they firmly believe fuch perfons to be polfc'ifcd with the fpirit of the Eatooa. Omai feemed to be very well inflructcd about them. He faid, that, during the fits that come upon them, they know nobody, not even their moll intimate acquaintances ; and that, if any one of them happens to be a man of property, he will very often give away every moveable he is poffefied of, if his friends do not put them out of his reach ; and, when he recovers, will inquire what had D 2 become AugS become of thofe very things, which he had, but juft before, > v ' diflributed, not feeming to have the lead remembrance of what he had done, while the fit was upon him. As foon as I got on board, a light breeze fpringing up at Eaft, we got under fail, and fleered for Matavai Bay*; where the Refolution anchored the fame evening. But the Sunday 24. Difcovery did not get in till the next morning ; fo that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled. * See a plan of this bay, in Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. ii. p. 248. CHAP. CHAR II. Interview with Otoo, King of the If and.—Imprudent Con-duct of Omai.—Employments on Shore.—European Animals landed.—Particulars about a Native who had vifited Lima.—About Oedidee.—A Revolt in Eimeo.— War with that Ifland determined upon, in a Council of Chiefs.—A human Sacrifice on that Account.—A par-. ticular Relation of the Ceremonies at the great Moral, where the Sacrifice was offered.—Other barbarous Cuf-toms of this People. ABOUT nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the King 1777. of the whole iiland, attended by a great number of v_Auf1' -> canoes full of people, came from Oparre, his place of re- Sunday 24' fidence, and having landed on Matavai Point, fent a mef-fage on board, exprcfling his defirc to fee me there. Accordingly I landed, accompanied by Omai, and fome of the officers. We found a prodigious number of people af-fembled on this occafion, and in the midfl of them was the king, attended by his father, his two brothers, and three fillers, I went up, firfl, and falutcd him, being followed by Omai, who kneeled and embraced his legs. He had prepared himfelf for this ceremony, by dreffing himfelf in his very beflfuit of clothes, and behaved with a great deal of refpect and £777^ and modefty. Ncverchelefs, very little notice was taken of —ir—' him. Perhaps, envy had fome fhare in producing this cold reception. Pie made the Chief a prefent of a large piece of red feathers, and about two or three yards of gold cloth; and I gave him a fuit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, fome tools, and, what was of more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers, and one of. the bonnets in ufe at the Friendly Iflands. After the hurry of this vifit was over, the king, and the whole royal family, accompanied me on board, followed by fevcral canoes, laden with all kind of provifions, in quantity fuflicicnt to have feryed the companies of both fhips for a week. Each of the family owned, or pretended to own, a part; fo that I had a prefent from every one of them ; and every one of them had a feparate prefent in return from me ; which was the great object in view. Soon after, the king's mother, who had not been prefent at the firfl interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity of provifions and cloth, which fhe divided between me and Omai. For, although he was but little noticed, at firfl, by his countrymen, they no fooner gained the knowledge of his riches, than they began to court his friendfhip. I encouraged this as much as I could; for it was my wifh to fix: him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my European animals at this iiland, I thought he would be able to give fome inflruction about the management of them, and about their ufe. Bcfidcs, I knew and faw, that the farther he was from his native ifland, he would be the better refpettcd. But, unfortunately, poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himfelf in fo imprudent a manner, that he foon loft the friendfhip of Otoo, and of every other perfon of note in Otaheite. He aflbciated with none but vagabonds and flrangcrs, ftranjjfffft, whofe fole views were to plunder him. And, if AB7i&. I had not interfered, they would not have left him a tingle v~—' art; worth the carrying from the ifland. This neceffarily drc pon him the ill-will of the principal Chiefs; who four hat they could not procure, from any one in the (hips, j :h valuable prcfents as Omai bellowed on the lowed of the people, his companions. As foon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with us the poultry, with which we were to (lock the idand. They confided of a peacock and hen (which Lord Befborough was fo kind as to fend me, for this purpofe, a few days before I left London); a turkey cock and hen ; one gander, and three gecfe ; a drake, and four ducks. All thefe I left at Oparre, in the polfeffion of Otoo; and the geefe and ducks began to breed, before we failed. We found there, a gander, which the natives told , us, was the fame that Captain Wallis had given to Oberea ten years before ; feveral goats; and the Spanifli bull, whom they kept tied to^a tree, near Otoo's houfe. I never faw a finer animal of his kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Ohcitepcha to this place, in order to be fhipped for Bolabola. But it paffes my comprehenfion, how they can contrive to carry him ;n one .of their canoes. If we had not arrived, it would have been of little confequence who had the property of him, as, without a cow, he could be of no ufe ; and none had been left with him. Though the natives told us, that there were cows on board the Spanifli fhips, and that they took them away with them, I cannot believe this; and fhould rather fuppofe, that they had died in the paflage from Lima. The next day, I Monday 25. fent the three cows, that I had on board, to this bull; and the 1777; the bull, which I had brought, the horfe and marc, and Augult. J ^—,--1 fhcep, I put afhore at Matavai. Having thus difpofcd of thefe paffengers, I found myfelf lightened of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation that attended the bringing this living cargo thus far, is hardly to be conceived. But the fatis faction that I felt, in having been fo fortunate as to fulfil his Majedy's humane defign, in fending fuch valuable animals, to fupply the wants of two worthy nations, fufliciently recompenfed me for the many anxious hours I had patted, before this fuInordinate object of my voyage could be carried into execution. As I intended to make fome flay here, we fet up the two obfervatories on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them, two tents were pitched, for the reception of a guard, and of fuch people as it might be ncceffary to leave on more, in different departments. At this flation, I intruded the command to Mr. King; who, at the fame time, attended the obfervations, for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper, and other purpofes. During our day, various ncceflary operations employed the crews of both fhips. The Difcovery's main-mail was carried afliore, and made as good as ever Our fails and water-cafks were repaired ; the fhips were caulked; and the rigging all overhauled. We alfo infpected all the bread that we had on board in cafks; and had the fatis-faction to find, that but little of it was damaged. Tuefdayz©". On the 26th, I had a piece of ground cleared, for a garden, and planted it with fevcral articles; very few of which, I believe, the natives will ever look after. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple plants, were in a fair way way of fuccceding, before we left the place. I had brought, from the Friendly Iflands, feveral fhaddock trees. Thefe I »--#, alfo planted here ; and they can hardly fail of fucccfs, un- lefs their growth fhould be checked by the fame premature curiofity, which deftroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A number of the natives got together, to tafte the firfl: fruit it bore; but, as the grapes were ftill four, they con- fidercd it as little better than poifon, and it was unanimoufly determined, to tread it under foot. In that ftate, Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the difcovery. For he had a full confidence, that, if he had but grapes, he could eafily make wine. Accordingly, he had feveral flips cut off from the tree, to carry away with him; and we pruned, and put in order, the remains of it. Probably, grown wife by OmaPs inftructions, they may now fuffer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pafs fo hafty a fentence upon it again. We had not been eight and forty hours at anchor in Matavai Bay, before wc were vifited by all our old friends, whofc names are recorded in the account of my laft voyage. Not one of them came empty handed ; fo that wc had more provifions than we knew what to do with. What was ftill more, wc were under no apprehenfions of exhaufting the ifland, which prefented to our eyes every mark of the moil; exuberant plenty, in every article of refrefhment. Soon after our arrival here, one of the natives, whom the Spaniards had carried with them to Lima, paid us a vifit; but, in his external appearance, he was not diftinguifhable from the reft of his countrymen. However, he had not foigot fome Spanifh words which he had acquired, though he pronounced them badly. Amongft them, the molt frequent were, fi Scnnor- and, when a ftranger was introduced Vol. II. E to AugS t0 n*m> ne ^ not t0 r^e UP anc* acco1^ mm) as well as \——' he could. We alfo found here, the young man whom we called Oedidee, but whofe real name is Hcete-heete. I had carried him from Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774; after he had vifited the Friendly Iflands, New Zealand, Eaftcr Ifland, and the Marquefcs, and been on board my fhip, in that extenfive navigation, about feven months. He was, at leaft, as tenacious of his good breeding, as the man who had been at Lima; and yes, Sir, or if you pleafer Sir, were as frequently repeated by him, as ft Sc/mor, was by the other. Heete-heete, who is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in Otaheite, about three months before; with no other intention, that we could learn, than to gratify his cu> riofity, or, perhaps, fome other favourite paflion; which are, very often, the only objects of the purfuit of other travelling gentlemen. It was evident, however, that he preferred the modes, and even garb, of his countrymen, to ours. For, though I gave him fome clothes, which our Admiralty Board had been pleafed to fend for his ufe (to which I added a cheft of tools, and a few other articles, as a prefent from myfelf), he declined wearing them, after a few days. This inflance, and that of the perfon who had been at Lima, may be urged as a proof of the ftrong prc-penfity natural to man, of returning to habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by accident. And, perhaps, it may be concluded, that even Omai, who had imbibed almoll the whole Engliili manners, will, in a very {hort time after our leaving him, like Oedidee, and the vi-fiter of Lima, return to his own native garments. Wednef. 27. In the morning of the 27th, a man came from Oheite-peha, and told us, that two Spanifli fhips had anchored in that that bay the night before j and, in confirmation of this intel- ^Wgj. ligcncc, he produced a piece of coarfe blue cloth, which, s-^ri—-> he faid, he got out of one of the mips ; and which, indeed, to appearance, was almofl quite new. He added, that Ma-teema was in one of the fhips ; and that they were to come down to Matavai in a day or two. Some other circum-flances which he mentioned, with the foregoing ones, gave the flory fo much the air of truth, that I difpatched Lieutenant Williamfon in a boat, to look into Oheitcpeha bay; and, in the mean time, I put the fhips into a proper pofture of defence. For, though England and Spain were in peace when I left Europe, for aught I knew, a different fcene might, by this time, have opened. However, on farther inquiry, we had reafon to think that the fellow, who brought the intelligence, had impofed upon us; and this was put beyond all doubt, when Mr. Williamfon returned next day ; Thurfdayi*. who made his report to me, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no fhips were there now, and that none had been there fince we left it. The people of this part of the ifland, where we now were, indeed, told us, from the beginning, that it was a fiction invented by thofe of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we were at a lofs to conceive, tmlefs they fuppofed, that the report would have fome effect in making us quit the iiland, and, by that means, deprive the people of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might reap from our mips continuing there; the inhabitants of the two parts of the iiland being inveterate enemies to each other. From the time of our arrival at Matavai, the weather had Friday ig, been very unfettled, with more or lefs rain every day, till the 29th; before which we were not able to get equal altitudes of the fun for afcertaining the going of the time- E 2 keeper. 1777* keeper. The fame caufe alfo retarded the caulking, and _f other neceilary repairs or the mips. In the evening of this day, the natives made a precipitate retreat, both from on board the fhips, and from our flation on fhore. For what reafon, wc could not, at firfl, learn ; though, in general, we guefled it arofe from their knowing that fome theft had been committed, and apprehending pu-nifhment on that account. At length, I underftood what had happened. One of the furgeon's mates had been in the country to purchafe curiofities, and had taken with him four hatchets for that purpofe. Having employed one of the natives to carry them for him, the fellow took an opportunity to run off with fo valuable a prize. This was the caufe of the fudden flight, in which Otoo himfelf, and his whole family, had joined; and it was with difficulty that I flopped them, after following them two or three miles. As I had refolvcd to take no meafures for the recovery of the hatchets, in order to put my people upon their guard againft fuch negligence for the future, I found no difficulty in bringing the natives back, and in refloring every thing to its ufual tranquillity. jd Hitherto, the attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to us; but, next morning, a new fcene of bufi-nefs opened, by the arrival of fome meffengers from Eimeo, or (as it is much oftener called by the natives) Morea*, with intelligence, that the people in that ifland were in arms; and that Otoo's partizans there had been worfled, and obliged to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between, the two iflands, which commenced in 1774, as mentioned in * Morea, according to Dr, Forfar, is a diftrict in Eimeo. See his Obfervations. p. 217. the the account of my laft voyage, had, it feems, partly fub- Auguft. lifted ever fince. The formidable armament which I faw, 1 » at that time, and defcribed % had failed foon after I then left Otaheite ; but the malcontents of Eimeo had made fo ftout a refiftance, that the fleet had returned without effecting much ; and now another expedition was neceffary. On the arrival of thefe meffengers, all the Chiefs, who happened to be at Matavai, alfembled at Otoo's houfe, where I actually was at the time, and had the honour to be admitted into their council. One of the mefTengers opened the bufmefs of the affembly, in a fpeech of confidcrablc length. But I underftood little of it, befides its general purport, which was to explain the fituation of affairs in Eimeo; and to excite the affembled Chiefs of Otaheite to arm on the occafton. This opinion was combated by others who were againft commencing hoftilities; and the debate was carried on with great order; no more than one man fpeaking at a time. At laft, they became very noify, and I expected that our meeting would have ended like a Polifli diet. But the contending great men cooled as faft as they grew warm, and order was foon rcflored. At length, the party for war prevailed; and it was determined, that a ftrong force fhould be fent to affift their friends in Eimeo. But this refolution was far from being unanimous. Otoo, during the whole debate, remained fdent; except that, now and then, he addreffed a word or two to the fpeakers. Thofe of the council, who were for profecuting the war, applied to me for my afli(lance; and all of them wanted to know what part I would take. Omai was fent for to be my interpreter ; but, as he could not be found, I was obliged to» i'peak for myfelf, and told them, as well as I could, that as f See Cook's Voyage, Vol. i. p. 34.7, bV. I was T was not thoroughly acquainted with the difputc, and as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think myfelf at liberty to engage in hoftilities againft them. With this declaration they either were, or feemed, fatisfied. The affcnibly then broke up j but, before I left them, Otoo defired me to come to him in the afternoon, and to bring Omai with me. Accordingly, a party of us waited upon him at the appointed time i and we were conducted by him to his father, in whofe prefence the difputc with Eimeo was again talked over. Being very defirous of devifing fome method to bring about an accommodation, I founded the old Chief on that head. But wc found him deaf to any fuch propofal, and fully determined to profecute the war. He repeated the folicitations which I had already refilled, about giving them my affiftance. On our inquiring into the caufe of the war, we were told, that, fome years ago, a brother of Wahea-dooa, of Tieraboo, was fent to Eimeo, at the requeft of Ma-heine, a popular Chief of that ifland, to be their king ; but that he had not been there a week before Maheine, having caufed him to be killed, fet up for himfelf, in oppofition to Tierataboonooe, his fiftcr's fon, who became the lawful heir j or clfe had been pitched upon, by the people of Otaheite, to fucceed to the government on the death of the other. Towha, who is a relation of Otoo, and Chief of the diftricl: of Tettaha, a man of much weight in the iiland, and who had been Commander in Chief of the armament fitted out againft Eimeo in 1774, happened not to be at Matavai at this time ; and, confequently, was not prefent at any of thefe confutations. It, however, appeared that he was no ftranger to 6 what tvhat was-tranfadted; and that he entered with more fpirit ^Wjjj^ into the affair than any other Chief. For, early in the morn- jr~?~—' * J Monday I, ing of the ift of September, a meffenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo, that he had killed a man to be facrificcd to the Eatooa, to implore the afhflance of the God againft Eimeo. This act of worfhip was to be performed at the great Moral at Attahooroo; and Otoo's prefence, it feems, was abfolutcly neceffary on that folemn occafion, That the offering of human facrifices is part of the religious infthutions of this iiland, had been mentioned by Monf. de Bougainville, on the authority of the native whom he carried with him to France. During my laft vifit to Otaheite, and while I had opportunities of converting with Omai on the fubject, I had fatisfied myfelf, that there was too much reafon to admit, that fuch a practice, however inconfiftent with the general humanity of the people, was here adopted. But as this was one of thofe extraordinary facts, about which many are apt to retain doubts, un-lefs the relater himfelf has had ocular proof to confirm what he had heard from others, I thought this a good opportunity of obtaining the higheft evidence of its certainty, by being prefent myfelf at the foicmnity; and, accordingly, propofed to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany him. To this he readily confented ; and wTe immediately fet out in my boat, with my old friend Potatou, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Webber; Omai following in a canoe. In our way we landed upon a little iiland, which He3 off Tettaha, where we found Towha and his retinue. After fome little converfation between the two Chiefs, on the fubject of the war, Towha addreffed himfelf to me, aiking my aftiftance. When I excufed myfelf, he feemed angry; thinking re7ember **^> ^ranSc» ^iat wno nac^ always declared myfelf to be ^-r~—> the friend of their ifland, would not now go and fight againft its enemies. Before wc parted, he gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, tied up in a tuft; and a lean half-ffarved dog was put into a canoe that was to accompany lis. We then embarked again, taking on board a prieil who was to aflifl at the folcmnity. As foon as we landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o'clock in the afternoon, Otoo cxprelTed his defire that the feamen might be ordered to remain in the boat; and that Mr. Andcrfon, Mr. Webber, and myfelf, might take off our hats, as foon as we fhould come to the morai, to which we immediately proceeded, attended by a great many men, and fome boys; but not one woman. We found four priefls, and their attendants, or afliflants, waiting for us. The dead body, or facrifice, was in a fmall canoe that lay on the beach, and partly in the wafli of the fea, fronting the morai. Two of the priefts, with fome of their attendants, were fitting by the canoe; the others at the morai* Out-company flopped about twenty or thirty paces from the priefls. Here Otoo placed himfelf; we, and a few others Handing by him; while the bulk of the people remained at a greater diflance. The ceremonies now began. One of the priefl's attendants brought a young plantain-tree, and laid it down before Otoo. Another approached with a fmall tuft of red feathers, twifled on fome fibres of the cocoa-nut hufk, with which he touched one of the king's feet, and then retired with it to his companions. One of the priefls, feated at the morai, facing thofe who were upon the beach, now began a long prayer; and, at certain times, fent down young plan- tain- tain trees, which were laid upon the facrifice. During this Se prayer, a man, who Hood by the officiating pried, held in his hands two bundles, feemin^ly of cloth. In one of them, as we afterward found, was the royal maro; and the other, if I may be allowed the expreffion, was the ark of the Eatooa. As foon as the prayer was ended, the priefls at the moral, with their attendants, went and fat down by thofe upon the beach, carrying with them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers; during which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at different times, from off the facrifice ; which was partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and fmall brandies. It was now taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach, with the feet to the fea. The priells placed themfelvcs around it, fome fitting and others flanding; and one, or more of them, repeated fentences for about ten minutes. The dead body was now uncovered, by removing the leaves and branches, and laid in a parallel direction with the fea-fhore. One of the priells then, flanding at the feet of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was, at times, joined by the others; each holding in his hand a tuft of red feathers. In the courfe of this prayer, fome hair was pulled off the head of the facrifice, and the left eye taken out; both which were prefented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not, however touch it; but gave, to the man who prefented it, the tuft of feathers, which he had received from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, was carried back to the prieils. Soon after, Otoo fent to them another piece of feathers, which he had given me in the morning to keep in my pocket. During fome part of this laft ceremony, a king-fifher making a noife in the trees, Otoo turned to me, faying, " That is the Eatooa and feemed to look upon it to be a good omen. Vol. II, p The '777- The body was then carried a little way, with its head toward September. ' J i--,-. tjie mrait and laid under a tree ; ne,ar which were fixed three broad thin pieces of wood, differently, but rudely, carved. The bundles of cloth were laid on a part of the moral; and the tufts of red feathers were placed at the feet of the facrifice ; round which the priefls took their flations; and we were now allowed to go as near as we plea fed. He who feemed to be the chief pricfl fat at a fmall diflance, and fpoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and geflures; fo that he feemed often to cxpoflulate with the dead perfon, to whom he constantly addrclTed himfelf; and, fomctimcs, afked feveral qucflions, fcemingly with re-fpecf to the propriety of his having been killed. At other times, he made feveral demands, as if the deceafed either now had power himfelf, or interefl with the Divinity, to engage him to comply with fuch requefls. Amongfl which, wc underflood, he afked him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the hogs, women, and other things of the ifland, into their hands ; which was, indeed, the exprefs intention of the facrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which laft-cd near half an hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, accompanied by two other priefls; and in which Potatou, and fome others, joined. In the courfe of this prayer, fome more hair was plucked by a pricfl from the head of the corpfe, and put upon one of the bundles. After this, the chief pricfl prayed alone, holding in his hand the feathers which came from Towha. When he had finifhed, he gave them to another, who prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of feathers were laid upon the bundles of cloth; which clofed the ceremony at this place. The corpfe was then carried up to the mofl confpicuous part of the moral, with the feathers, the two bundles of J cloth cloth, and the drums; the lad of which beat Howl v. The . l]tT-feathers and bundles were laid againft the pile of ftones, ^—*—' and the corpfe at the foot of them. The priefts having again feated themfelves round it, renewed their prayers ; while fome of their attendants dug a hole about two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over with earth and ftones. While they were putting him into the grave, a boy fqueaked aloud, and Omai faid to me, that it was the Eatooa. During this time, a fire having been made, the dog, before mentioned, was produced, and killed, by twilling his neck, and fuffocating him. The hair was finged off, and the entrails taken out, and thrown into the fire, where they were left to confumc. But the heart, liver, and kidneys were only roafted, by being laid on hot Hones for a few minutes ; and the body of the dog, after being befmeared with the blood, which had been collected into a cocoa-nut (hell, and dried over the fire, was, with the liver, &c, carried and laid down before the priefts, who fat praying, round the grave. They continued their ejaculations over the dog, for fome time, while two men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud; and a boy fcreamed, as before, in a loud, fhrill voice, three different times. This, as we were told, was to invite the Eatooa to feaft on the banquet that they had prepared for him. As foon as the priefts had ended their prayers, the carcafc of the dog, With what belonged to it, were laid on a ivhatta, or fcaffold, about fix feet high, that Hood clofe by, on which lay the remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had * lately been facrificed, and, at this time, emitted an intolerable flench. This kept us at a greater diflance, than would, otherwifc, have been required of us. For, after the victim was removed from the fea-fidc toward the morai, we were Y 2 allowed 36 AVOYAGETO S'pttmbcr a^0WCC^ t0 approach as near as we pleafed. Indeed, after w-v,—t that, neither ferioufnefs nor attention were much obferved by the fpectators. When the dog was put upon the ivhatta, the priefts and attendants gave a kind of fhout, which clo/ed the ceremonies for the prefent. The day being now alio clofed, we were conducted to a houfe belonging to Po-tatou, where we were entertained, and lodged for the night. We had been told, that the religious rites were to be renewed in the morning; and I would not leave the place, while any thing remained to be fcen. Tuefdayz. Being unwilling to lofe any part of the folemnity, fome of us repaired to the fcene of action pretty early, but found nothing going forward. However, foon after, a pig was facrificed, and laid upon the fame ivhatta with the others. About eight o'clock, Otoo took us again to the moral, where the priefts, and a great number of men, were, by this time, affembled. The two bundles occupied the place in which we had fecn them dcpofited the preceding evening ; the two drums ftood in the front of the moral, but fome what nearer it than before; and the priefls were beyond them. 'Otoo placed himfelf between the two drums, and defired me to ftand by him. The ceremony began, as ufual, with bringing a young plantain-tree, and laying it down at the king's feet. After this a prayer was repeated by the priefts, who held in their hands feveral tufts of red feathers, and alfo a plume of oflrich feathers, which 1 had given to Otoo on my firfl arrival, and had been confecrated to this ufe. When the priefts had made an end of the prayer, they changed their ftation, placing themfelvcs between us and the moral; and one of them, the fame pcrfon who had acted the principal part part the clay before, began another prayer, which lafled gJ^jj^ about half an hour. During the continuance of this, the —*—~* tufrs of feathers were, one by one, carried and laid upon the ark of the Eatooa. Some little time after, four pigs were produced; one of which was immediately killed ; and the others were taken to a fly, hard by, probably referved for fome future occa-fion of facrifice. One of the bundles was now untied ; and it was found, as I have before obferved, to contain the maro, with which thefe people invcfl their kings; and which feems to anfwer, in fome degree, to the European cnfigns of royalty. It was carefully taken out of the cloth, in which it had been wrapped up, and fpread, at full length, upon the ground before the priefls. It is a girdle, about five yards long, and fifteen inches broad ; and, from its name, feems to be put on in the fame manner as is the common maro, or piece of cloth, ufed, by thefe people, to wrap round the waifl. It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers ; but moftly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon the ifland. The one end was bordered with eight pieces, each about the fize and fhape of a horfe-fhoe, having their edges fringed with black feathers. The other end was forked, and the points were of different lengths. The feathers were in fquare compartments, ranged in two rows, and, othcrwife, fo difpofed as to produce a pleafmg effect. They had been lirfl palled or fixed upon fome of their own country cloth ; and then fewed to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis had difplayed, and left flying afhore, the firfl time that he landed at Matavai. 1 his was what they told us ; and we had no reafon to doubt it, as we could eafily trace the remains of an Englifh pendant. About fix or eight inches fquare of the maro was unorna- mented; merited; there being no feathers upon that fpace, except a few that had been fent by Waheadooa, as already mentioned. The priefls made a long prayer, relative to this part of the ceremony ; and, if I miflook not, they called it the prayer of the maro. When it was fmifhed, the badge of royalty was carefully folded up, put into the cloth, and de-pofitcd again upon the morau The other bundle, which I have diftinguifhcd by the name of the ark, wTas next opened, at one end. But we were not allowed to go near enough to examine its myfle-rious contents. The. information we received was, that the Eatooa, to whom they had been facrificing, and whofe name is Ooro, was concealed in itj or rather, what is luppofed to reprefent him. This facrcd repofitory is made of the twifted fibres of the hufk of the cocoa-nut, fhaped fomewhat like a large fid, or fugar loaf; that is, roundifh, with one end much thicker than the other. We had, very often, got fmall ones from different people, but never knew their ufe before. By this time, the pig, that had been killed, was cleaned, and the entrails taken out. Thefe happened to have a con-fitlcrable mare of thofe convulfive motions, wlnich often appear, in different parts., after an animal is killed ; and this was confidercd by the fpectators as a very favourable omen to the expedition, on account of which the facrificcs had been offered. After being expofed for fome time, that thofe who chofc, might examine their appearances, the entrails were carried to the priefls, and laid down before them. While one of their number prayed, another in-fpc as tncY now have of feeding, corporeally, on V—\—-j human flefh themfelvcs. And, yet, we have great reafon to believe, that there was a time when they were cannibals. We were told (and indeed partly faw it), that it is a necef-fary ceremony, when a poor wretch is facrificed, for the prieft to take out the left eye. This he prefents to the king, holding it to his mouth, which he defires him to open ; bur, inftead of putting it in, immediately withdraws it. This they call " eating the man," or 11 food for the Chiefand, perhaps, wc may obferve here fome traces of former times, when the dead body was really feafted upon. But not to infill upon this; it is certain, that human facrifices are not the only barbarous cuflom we find ftill prevailing amongft this benevolent, humane people. For, be-fidcs cutting out the jaw-bones of their enemies ftain in battle, which they carry about as trophies, they, in fome meafure, offer their bodies as a facrifice to the Eatooa. Soon after a battle, in which they have been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands, and bring them to the moral, where, with a great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole, and bury them all in it, as fo many offerings to the gods; but their fculls are never after taken up. Their own great Chiefs, that fall in battle, are treated in a different manner. We were informed, that their late king Tootaha, Tubourai-tamaidc, and another Chief, who fell with them in the battle, fought with thofe of Tiaraboo, and were brought to this moral, at Attahooroo. There their bowels were cut out by the priefts, before the great altar; and the bodies afterward buried in three different places, which were pointed out to us, in the great pile of ftones, that compofe the mod confpicuous part of this moral. And their common men, who alfo fell in this battle, were all 4. buried buried in one hole, at the foot of the pile. This, Omai, who September, was prefent, told me, was done the day after the battle, ~-~ ' with much pomp and ceremony, and in the midft of a great concouife of people, as a thankfgiving offering to the Eatooa, for the victory they had obtained ; while the van-quifhed had taken refuge in the mountains. There they remained a week, or ten days, till the fury of the victors was over, and a treaty fet on foot, by which it was agreed, that Otoo fhould be declared king of the whole ifland ; and the folemnity of inverting him with the maro, was performed at the fame morai, with great pomp, in the pre fence of all the principal men of the country. CHAE CHAP. III. i Conference with Towha.—Heevas defcribed.—Omai and Oedidee give Dinners.—Fireworks exhibited.—A re-markable Prefent of Cloth.—Maitner of preferving the Body of a dead Chief. — Another human Sacrifice. — Riding on Horfeback,—Otoos Attention to fupply Provifions, and prevent Thefts.—Animals given to him.—* Etary, and the Deputies of a Chief have Audiences.— A Mock-fight of Two War Canoes.—Naval Strength of thefe Iflands.—Marnier of conducting a War. r~VT^ H E clofe of the very lingular fcene, exhibited at the JL moral, which I have faithfully defcribed in the laft Chapter, leaving us no other bufinefs in Attahooroo, we embarked about noon, in order to return to Matavai j and, in our way, vifited Towha, who had remained on the little ifland, where we met him the day before. Some converfa-tion pafTed between Otoo and him, on the prefent pofture of public affairs ; and then the latter folicitcd me, once more, to join them in their war againft Eimeo. By my pofitive re-fufai I entirely loft the good graces of this Chief. Before we parted, he afked us, if the folemnity, at which we had been prefent, anfwered our expectations; what opinion we had of its efficacy; and whether wTe performed fuch acts of worfhip in our own country ? During the celebration of the horrid ceremony, we had prefervcd a profound filencc; filence ; but as foon as it was clofed, had made no fcruple in exprefling our fentiments very freely about it, to Otoo, and thofe who attended him ; of courfe, therefore, I did not conceal my dcteftation of it, in this convcrfation with Towha. Befides the cruelty of the bloody cuftom, I ftrongly urged the unreafonablenefs of it; telling the Chief, that fuch a facrifice, far from making the Eatooa propitious to th eir nation, as they ignorantly believed, would be the means of drawing down his vengeance; and that, from this very circumftance, I took upon me to judge, that their intended expedition againft Maheine would be unfuccefsful. This was venturing pretty far upon conjecture; but flill, I thought, that there was little danger of being miflaken. For I found, that there were three parties in the ifland, with regard to this war; one extremely violent for it; another perfectly indifferent about the matter; and the third openly declaring themfelvcs friends to Maheine, and his caufe. Under thefe circumflances, of difunion diffracting their councils, it was not likely that fuch a plan of military operations would be fettled, as could infure even a probability of fuccefs. In conveying our fentiments to Towha, on the fubject of the late facrifice, Omai was made ufe of as our interpreter; and he entered into our arguments with fo much fpirit, that the Chief feemed to be in great wrath; efpeCially when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he had done here, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged for ir. Upon this, he exclaimed, mac-no! viae no! [vile I vile'] and would not hear another word. During this debate, many of the natives yere prefent, chiefly the attendants and fervants of Towna himfelf; and when Omai be-£an to explain the punifliment that would be inflicted in S England, September ^gfetid, upon the greater! man, if he killed the meaneft v_v-* fervant, they feemed to liflen with great attention ; and were, probably, of a different opinion from that of their mailer, on this fubjccl:. After leaving Towha, we proceeded to Oparre, where Otoo preffed us to fpend the night. We landed in the evening ; and, on our road to his houfe, had an opportunity of obferving in what manner thefe people amufe thcmfelves, in their private heevas. About a hundred of them wTere found fitting in a houfe ; and in the midfl of them were two women, with an old man behind each of them, beating very gently upon a drum ; and the women, at intervals, finging in a fofter manner, than I ever heard at their other diver-fions. The affembly liflened with great attention; and were, fecmingly, almofl abfbrbed in the pleafure the mufic gave them; for few took any notice of us, and the performers never once Hopped. It was almofl dark before we reached Otoo's houfe, where we were entertained with one of their public heevas, or plays, in which his three fillers appeared as the principal characters. This was what they call a heeva raci, which is of fuch a nature, that no body is to enter the houfe or area, where it is exhibited. When the royal fillers are the performers, this is always the cafe. Their drefs, on this occafion, was truly picturefque and elegant; and they acquitted themfelves, in their parts, in a very diflinguifhed manner; though fome comic interludes, performed by four men, feemed to yield greater pleafure to Wednef. 3. the audience, which was numerous. The next morning we proceeded to Matavai, leaving Otoo at Oparre ; but his mother, fillers, and feveral other women, attended me on board, and Otoo himfelf followed foon after. While While Otoo and I were abfent from the fhips, they had Sc been but fparingly fupplied with fruit, and had few vifucrs. -—> After our return, we again overflowed with provifions, and with company. On the 4th, a party of us dined afhorc with Omai, who Thurfday 4-gave excellent fare, confiding of fifh, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner, I attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his houfe, where I found all his fervants very bufy, getting a quantity of provifions ready for me, Amongft other articles, there was a large hog, which they killed in my prefence. The entrails were divided into eleven portions, in fuch a manner, that each of them contained a bit of every thing. Thefe portions were diflributed to the fervants, and fome drclfed theirs in the fame oven with the hog, while others carried off, undreffed, what had come to their fhare. There was alfo a large pudding, the whole procefs in making which, I faw. It was compofed of breadfruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus nuts, each rafped, fcraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itfelf. A quantity of juice, expreffed from cocoa-nut kernels, was put into a large tray, or wTooden veffel. The other articles, hot from the oven, were depofited in this veffel; and a few hot floncs were alfo put in, to make the contents fimmer. Three or four men made ufe of flicks to ftir the feveral ingredients, till they were incorporated one with another, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil j fo that the whole mafs, at laft, became of the confiftency of a hafty-pudding. Some of thefe puddings are excellent; and few that we make in England equal them. I feldom, or never, dined without one, when I could get it, which was not always the cafe. Otoo's hog being baked, and the pudding, which I have defcribed, being made, they, together with Vol.11, H two 1777. September. Friday Sunday 7. Monday 8. two living hogs, and a quantity of bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe, and fent on board my fhip, followed by myfelf, and all the royal family. The following evening, a young ram, of the Cape breed, that had been lambed, and, with great care, brought up on board the fhip, was killed by a dog. Incidents are of more or lefs confequence, as connected with fituation. In our prefent fituation, defirous as I was to propagate this ufe-ful race, amongft thefe iflands, the lofs of the ram was a ferious misfortune ; as it was the only one I had of that breed ; and I had only one of the Englifh breed left. In the evening of the 7th, we played off fome fireworks before a great concourfc of people. Some were highly entertained with the exhibition j but by far the greater number of fpectators were terribly frightened; infomuch, that it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to keep together, to fee the end of the fhew. A table-rocket was the laft. It flew off the table, and difperfed the whole crowd in a moment j even the moft refolute among thetn fled with precipitation. The next day, a party of us dined with our former fhip-mate, Oedidee, oniifh and pork. The hog weighed about thirty pounds; and it may be worth mentioning, that it was alive, dreffed, and brought upon the table, within the hour. We had but juft dined, when Otoo came, and afked me, if my belly was full? On my anfwering in the affirmative, he faid, " Then, come along with me." I, accordingly, went with him to his father's, where I found fome people employed in drefiing two girls with a prodigious quantity of fine cloth, after a very lingular fa(hion. The one end of each piece of cloth, of which there were a good many, was hclcl up up over the heads of the girls, while the remainder was Scp\7e7Jber. wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits. Then the v—' upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground, over the other, fo as to bear fome refemblance to a circular hoop-petticoat. Afterward, round the outfide of all, were wrapped feveral pieces of differently coloured cloth, which confiderably increafed the fize ; fo that it was not lefs than five or fix yards in circuit, and the weight of this lingular attire was as much as the poor girls could fup-port. To each were hung two taames, or brealt-plates, by way of enriching the whole, and giving it a picture fque appearance. Thus equipped, they were conducted on board the fhip, together with feveral hogs, and a quantity of fruit, which, with the cloth, was a prefent to me from Otoo's father. Perfons, of either lex, dreffed in this manner, are called atee; but, I believe, it is never practifed, except when large prefents of cloth arc to be made. At leaff, I never faw it practifed upon any other occafion ; nor, indeed, had I ever fuch a prefent before; but both Captain Clei ke and I had cloth given to us afterward, thus wrapped round the hearers. The next day, 1 had a prefent of five hogs, and Tuefday?. fome fruit, from Otoo; and one hog, and fome fruit, from each of his filters. Nor were other provifions wanting. For two or three days, great quantities of mackerel had been caught by the natives, within the reef, in fcines ; fome of which they brought to the fhips and tents, and fold. Otoo was not more attentive to fupply our wants, by a fuccellion of prefents, than he was to contribute to our amufemcnt, by a fucceflion of diverfions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre, on the ioth, he treated us Wednef. i with what may be called a play. His three fillers were the aetreffes; and the dreifes, that they appeared in, were new H 2 and and elegant; that is, more fo than we had ufually met with at any of thefe iflands. But the principal object I had in view, this day, in going toOparre, was to take a view of an embalmed corpfe, which fome of our gentlemen had happened to meet with at that place, near the refidence of Otoo. On inquiry, I found it to be the remains of Tee, a Chief well known to me, when I was at this ifland, during my laft voyage. It was lying in a toopapaoo, more elegantly conftructed than their common ones, and in all refpects fimilar to that lately feen by us at Oheitepeha, in which the remains of Wahea-dooa are depofited, embalmed in the fame manner. When we arrived at the place, the body was under cover, and wrapped up in cloth, within the toopopaoo ; but, at my defire, the man who had the care of it, brought it out, and laid it upon a kind of bier, in fuch a manner, that we had as full a view of it as we could wifh ; but we were not allowed to go within the pales that inclofed the toopapaoo. After he had thus exhibited the corpfe, he hung the place with mats and cloth, fo difpofed as to produce a very pretty effect;, We found the body not only entire in every part; but, what furprized us much more, was, that putrefaction feemed icarcely to be begun, as there was not the leaf! difagreeable fmell proceeding from it; though the climate is one of the hotteff, and Tee had been dead above four months. The only remarkable alteration that had happened, was a llirink-ing of the mufcular parts and eyes ; but the hair and nails were in their original ftate, and ftill adhered firmly; and the feveral joints were quite pliable, or in that kind of re* laxed ftate which happens to perfons who faint fuddenly. Such were Mr. Anderfon's remarks to me, who alfo told me, that, on his inquiring into the method of effecting this preservation of their dead bodies, he had been informed, that, foon foon after their death, they are difembowellcd, by drawing Se^7e7mber. the inteftines, and other vifcera, out at the anus; and the —«—' whole cavity is then filled or fluffed with cloth, introduced through the fame part; that when any moiflure appeared on the fkin, it was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterward rubbed all over, with a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut oil; which, being frequently repeated, preferved them a great many months ; but that, at laft, they gradually moulder away. This was the information Mr. Ander-fon received ; for my own part, I could not learn any more about their mode of operation, than what Omai told me, wTho faid, that they made ufe of the juice of a plant which grows amongfl the mountains; of cocoa-nut oil ; and of frequent wafhing with fea-water. I was alfo told, that the bodies of all their great men, who die a natural death, are preferved in this manner ; and that they, expofe them to public view for a very confiderable time after. At firfl, they are laid out everyday, when it does not rain; afterward, the intervals become greater and greater; and, at laft, they are feldom to be feen. In the evening, wc returned from Oparre, where we left Ctoo, and all the royal family -, and I faw none of them till the 12th;.when all, but the Chief himfelf, paid me a vifit. F4d*y"*» He, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, to aflifl, this day, at another human facrifice, which the Chief of Tiara-boo had fent thither to be offered up at the moral. This fecond inftance, within the courfe of a few days, was too melancholy a proof, how numerous the victims of this bloody fuperflition are amongfl this humane people. I would have been prefent at this facrifice too, had I known of it in time; for, now, it was too late. From the very fame caufe, I miffed being prefent at a public tranfaetion, i which ^ejtember wn*cn nac* palTed at Oparre the preceding day, when Otoo, v.—,--/ with all the folemnitics obferved on fuch occalions, reflored to the friends and followers of the late kinv Tootaha, the lands and pofleflions, which had been wi hheld from them ever fince his death. Probably, the new facrifice was the concluding ceremony of what may be called the reverfal of attainder. Saturday 13. The following evening, Otoo returned from exercifing this Sunday 14. moll difagrccable of all his duties as fovereign ; and, the next day, being now honoured with his company, Captain Clerke and I, mounted on horfeback, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very great furprizc of a great train of people who attended on the occafion, gazing upon us, with as much aftonifhment as if we had been centaurs. Omai, indeed, had, once or twice, before this, attempted to get on horfeback; but he had as often been thrown off, before he could contrive to feat himfelf; fo that this was the full time they had fecn any body ride a horfe. What Captain Clerke and I began, was, after this, repeated every day, while we ft aid, by one or another of our people. And yet the curiofity of the natives continued flill unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with thefe animals, after they had fecn the ufe that was made of them ; and, as far as I could judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatnefs of other nations, than all the other novelties, put together, that their Furopean vifuers had carried amongfl them. Both the horfe and mare were in good cafe, and looked extremely well. Monday 15. The next day, Etary, or Olla, the god of Bolabola, who had, for feveral days pail, been in the neighbourhood of , Matavai, removed to Oparre, attended by feveral failing canoes. Wc were told, that Otoo did not approve of his being 3 lb io near our flation, where his people could more eafdy in- s'JSiJ^ vade our property. I mull: do Otoo the julticc to fay, that ——* he took every method prudence could fugged to prevent thefts and robberies ; and it was more owing to his regulations, than to our own circumfpection, that fo few were committed. He had taken care to creel a little houfe or two, on the other fide of the river, behind our pod; and two others, clofe to our tents, on the bank between the river and the fea. In all thefe places fome of his own people con-ilantly kept watch ; and his father generally refided on Matavai point; io that we were, in a manner, furrounded by them. Thus flationcd, they not only guarded us in the night from thieves, but could obferve every thing that palled in the day ; and were ready to collect: contributions from fuch girls as had private connections with our people; which was generally done every morning. So that the mcafures adopted by him to fecure our fafety, at the fame time fcrved the more effential purpofe of enlarging his own profits. Otoo informing me, that his prefence was neceffary at Oparre, where he was to give audience to the great per-fonage from Bolabola ; and a (king me to accompany him, I readily confented, in hopes of meeting with fomething worth our notice. Accordingly I went with him, in the morning of the i6ch, attended by Mr. Anderfon. Nothing, however, TuefJay ,6„ occurred on this occafion, that was cither interelting or curious. Wc faw Etary and his followers prefent fome coarfe cloth and hogs to Otoo ; and each article was delivered with fome ceremony, and a fet fpeech. After this, they, and fome other Chiefs, held a confultation about the expedition tOjFijnaep, AEtary, at firll, feemed to difapprove of it ; bur, at lalt, his objections were over-ruled. Indeed, it appeared, , | next J^Tft: next day, that it was too late to deliberate about this mca- Scptember. * *—i—-/ furc; and that Towha, Potatou, and another Chief, had already gone upon the expedition with the fleet of Attahoo- ■Rtdncf. t7« too. For a mefTengcr arrived in the evening, with intelligence that they had reached Eimeo, and that there had been fome fkirmifhes, without much lofs or advantage on either flue. W^gCi»fi$» In the morning of the 18th, Mr. Andcrfon, myfelf, and Omai, went again with Otoo to Oparre, and took with us the fhcep'which I intended to leave upon the iiland, con-fifting of an Englifh ram and ewe, and three Cape ewes ; all which I gave to Otoo. As all the three cows had taken the bull, 1 thought I might venture to divide them, and carry fome to Ulietea. With this view, I had them brought before us, and prcpofed to Etary, that if he would leave his bull with Otoo, he fhould have mine, and one of the three •cows; adding, that I would carry them for him to Ulietea; for I was afraid to remove the Spanifh bull, left fome accident fhould happen to him, as he was a bulky fpirited beaft. To this propofal of mine, Etary, at firft, made fome objections ; but, at laft, agreed to it ; partly through the perfua-fion of Omai. However, juft as the cattle were putting into the boar, one of Etary's followers valiantly oppofed any exchange whatever being made. Finding this, and iufpecling that Etary had only confented to the propofed arrangement, for the prefent moment, to pleafe me ; and that, after 1 was gone, he might take away his bull, and then Otoo would not have one, I thought it beft to drop the idea of an exchange, as it could not be made with the mutual content of both parties; and finally determined to leave them all with Otoo, ftriclly injoining him never to fuller them to be removed from Oparre, not even the Spanifh bull, bull, nor any of the fhecp, till he mould get a flock of young g^jg*^ ones; which he might then difpofc of to his friends, and —.—f. fend to the neighbouring iilands. This being fettled, we left Etary and his party to ruminate upon their folly, and attended Otoo to another place, hard by, where we found the fervants of a Chief, whole name I forgot to afk, waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, as a prefent from their maffer to the fovereign. Thefe were delivered with the ufual ceremonies, and with an harangue in form, in which the fpcaker, in his mailer's name, enquired after the health of Otoo, and of all the principal people about him. This compliment was echoed back in the name of Otoo, by one of his minifters; and then the difputc with Eimeo was difcufled, with many arguments for and againft it. The deputies of this Chief were for profecut-ing the war with vigour, and advifed Otoo to offer a human facrifice. On the other hand, a Chief, who was in conftant attendance on Otoo's perfon, oppofed it, feemingly, with great flrength of argument. This confirmed mc in the opinion, that Otoo himfelf never entered heartily into the fpirit of this war. He now received repeated meffages from Towha, ftrongly foliciting him to haften to his afliftance. We were told, that his fleet was, in a manner, furrounded.by that of Maheine; but that neither the one, nor the other, durft hazard an engagement. After dining with Otoo, we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Opavrc. This day, and alio the 19th, wc were very fiity 19. fparingly fupplied with fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached himfelf to Captain Gierke, came from Oparre, between nine and ten o'clock in the evening, with a large fupply for both fhips; This marked his humane attention more ftrongly, than any thing he had Vox,. II. 1 hitherto September. hithert0 done for us. The next day, all the royal family J—«-' came with prefents; fo that our wants were not only relieved, Saturday 20. - , , J but we had more provifions than we could confume. Having got all our water on board, the fhips being caulked, the rigging overhauled, and every thing pur in order, 1 began to think of leaving the ifland, that I might have fufficient time to fpare for vifiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view, we removed from the fhore our obferva-tories, and inflruments, and bent the fails. Early the next Sunday 2i. morning> Otoo came on board to acquaint me, that all the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other diftricts adjoining, were going to Oparre, to join thofe belonging to that part of the ifland ; and that there would be a general review there. Soon after, the fquadron of Matavai was all in motion ; and, after parading a while about the bay, af-fembled afhorc, near the middle of it. I now went in my boat to take a view of them. Of thofe with flages, on which they fight, or what they call their war canoes, there were about fixty ; with near as many more of a fmaller fize. I was ready to have attended them to Oparre; but, foon after, a refolution was taken by the Chiefs, that they fhould not move till the next day. I looked upqn this to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded me a good opportunity to get fome infight into their manner of fighting. With this view, I expreffed my wifh to Otoo, that he would order fome of them to go through the ne-ceffary manoeuvres. Two were, accordingly, ordered out into the bay; in one of which, Otoo, Mr. King, and myfelf embarked ; and Omai went on board the other. When we had got fufheient fca-room, we faced, and advanced upon each other, and retreated by turns, as quick as our rowers could paddle. During this, the warriors on the flages flou- 3 rifhed 1 II E PACIFIC OCEAN. 59 rifhed their weapons, and played a hundred antic tricks, Sep7e^ber. which could anfwer no other end, in my judgment, than to ^—■-1 work up their pallions, and prepare them for fighting. Otoo flood by the fide of our ftage, and gave the neceffary orders, when to advance, and when to retreat. In this, great judgment, and a quick eye, combined together, feemed requifitc, to feize every advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving any advantage to the advcrfary. At laft, after advancing and retreating to and from each other, at leaft a dozen of times, the two canoes clofed, head to head, or ftage to ftage; and, after a fhort conflict, the troops on our flage were fuppofed to be all killed, and we were boarded by Omai and his affociates. At that very inftant, Otoo, and all our paddlers leaped over-board, as if reduced to the ne-ceftity of endeavouring to fave their lives by fwimming. If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval engagements are not always conducted in this manner. He told me, that they fometimes begin with lafhing the two veffcls together, head to head, and then fight till all the warriors are killed, on one fide or the other. But this clofc combat, I apprehend, is never practifed, but when they are determined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other mull happen ; for all agree, that they never give quarter, unlefs it be to refervc their prifoncrs for a more cruel death the next day. The power and ftrength of thefe iflands lie entirely in their navies. I never heard of a general engagement on land -, and all their decifive battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of conflict are fixed upon by both parties, the preceding day and night are fpent in divcrfions and feafling. Toward morning, they launch the canoes, put every thing in order, and, with the day, begin the I 2 battle 5 '777- battle j the fate of which generally decides the difpute. The ptembcr. ° J * —^-' vanquifhed fave themfelvcs by a precipitate flight; and fuch as reach the (hore fly, with their friends, to the mountains; for the victors, while their fury lafts, fpare neither the aged, nor women, nor children. The next day, they affemble at the moral, to return thanks to the Eatooa for the victory, and to offer up the ilain as facrifices, and the prifoners alfo, if they have any. After this, a treaty is fet on foot; and the conquerors, for the moftpart, obtain their own terms; by which particular didriets of land, and, fome-times, whole iflands, change their owners. Omai told us, that he was once taken a prifoner by the men of Bolabola, and carried to that ifland, where he and fome others would have been put to death the next day, if they had not found means to cfcape in the night. As foon as this mock-fight was over, Omai put on his fuit of armour, mounted a flagc in one of the canoes, and was paddled all along the fhore of the bay ; fo that every one had a full view of him. His coat of mail did not draw the attention of his countrymen fo much as might have been expected. Some of them, indeed, had feen a part of it before ; and there were others, again, who had taken fuch a diilike to Omai, from his imprudent conduct at this place, that they would hardly look at any thing, however Angular, that was exhibited by him. CHAP. CHAP. IV. The Day of failing fixed.—Peace made with Eimeo.—Debates about it, a?id Otoos Conduct blamed.—A Solemnity at the Morai on the Occafion, defcribed by Mr. King.—Obfervations upon it.—Inflame of Otoo s Art. —Omais War Canoe, and Remarks upon his Behaviour. —Otoos Prefent, and Mcjfage to the King of Great Britain —Reflections on our Maimer of Trafific, and on the good Treatment we met with at Otaheite.—Account of the Expedition of the Spaniards.—Their Fictions to depreciate the Erglijh.—Wijhes expreffed that no Settlement may- be made. — Omais yealoify of another Traveller. E ARLY in the morning of the 22c!, Otoo and his fa- . I77?: «-» ' September. ther came on board, to know when I propofed failing. For, having been informed, that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, I had told them, that I fhould viiit that ifland on my way to Huahcine ; and they were deftroUs of taking a palfage with me, and of their fleet failing, at the time, to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name the day; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon; when I was to take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in ffiort, the whole family. Thefe points being fettled, I propofed fetting out immediately for Oparre, Where all the fleet, fitted out for the expedition, was to affemble this day, and to be reviewed. I had Monday 22. . '777* I had but iult time to get into my boat, when news was oeptcutber. J o j »-w-' brought, that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further proceedings, in the military way, quite unneceflary ; and the war canoes, inflead of ren-dezvoufing at Oparre, were ordered home to their refpective did riots. This alteration* however, did not hinder me from following Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr. King and Omai. Soon after our arrival, and while dinner was preparing, a mefTenger arrived from Eimeo, and related the conditions of the peace; or rather of the truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms were difadvantageous to Otaheite ; and much blame was thrown upon Otoo, whofe delay, in fending reinforcements, had obliged Towha to fub- * mit to a difgraceful accommodation. It was even currently reported, that Towha, relenting his not being fupported, had declared, that, as foon as I fhould leave the ifland, he would join his forces to thofe of Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo at Matavai, or Oparre. This called upon me to declare, in the moft public manner, that I was determined to efpoufe the interell of my friend, againfl any fuch combination; and that whoever pre fumed to attack him, fhould feel the weight of my heavy difpleafure, when I returned again to their ifland. My declaration, probably, had the defired effect ; and, if Towha had any fuch hoflile intention at firfl, we foon heard no more of the report. Whappai, Otoo's father, highly difapproved of the peace, and blamed Towha very much for concluding it. This fenflble old man wifely judged, that my going down with them to Eimeo muft have been of Angular fervice to their caufe, though I fhould take no other part whatever in the quarrel. And it was upon this that he built all his arguments, and maintained, that Otoo Otoo had acted properly by waiting for me ; though this ^ had prevented his giving afliflance to Towha fo foon as he w expected. Our debates at Oparre, on this fubject, were hardly ended, before a meffenger arrived from Towha, defiling Otoo's attendance, the next day, at the morai in Attahooroo, to give thanks to the Gods for the peace he had concluded; at lead, fuch was Omai's account to me, of the object of this folemnity. I was afked to go; but being much out of order, was obliged to decline it. Defirous, however, of knowing what ceremonies might be obferved on fo memorable an occafion, I fent Mr. King, and Omai, and returned on board my (hip, attended by Otoo's mother, his three fillers, and eight more women. At fir ft, I thought that this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other view than to get a pafTage to Matavai. But when we arrived at the (hip, they told me, they intended palling the night on board, for the exprefs purpofe of undertaking the cure of the diforder I complained of; which was a pain of the rheumatic kind, extending from the hip to the foot. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed fpread for them upon the cabbin floor, and fubmitted myfelf to their directions. I was defired to lay myfelf down amongfl them. Then, as many of them as could get round me, began to fqueeze me with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flefh became a perfect mummy. In fhort, after undergoing this difciplme about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to fubmit to another rubbing-down before I went to bed; and it was fo effectual, that I found myfelf pretty eafy all the night September n'l$n ^fter. My female phyficians repeated their pre fen p-TJleSa'T nCXt mornm£> before they went afhore, and again, in the evening, when they returned on board ; after which, I found the pains entirely removed-, and the cure being Wednef. 24. perfected, they took their leave of me the following morning. This they call romee\ an operation which, in my opinion, far exceeds the ilefh-brufli, or any thing of the kind that wc make ufe of externally. It is univerfally practifed amongfl thefe iflanders \ being fomctimes performed by the men, but more generally by the women. If, at any time, one appears languid and tired, and fits down by any of them, they immediately begin to practifc the romee upon his legs ; and I have always found it to have an exceedingly good effect *. Thurfday =5. Jn the morning of the 25th, Otoo, Mr. King, and Omai, returned from Attahooroo; and Mr. King gave me the following account of what he had feen: " Soon after you left me, a fecond mciTengcr came from Towha to Otoo, with a plantain tree. It was funfet when wc embarked in a canoe and left Oparre. About nine o'clock wc landed at Tcttaha, at that extremity which joins to Attahooroo. Before we landed, the people called to us from the fhorc ; probably, to tell us that Towha was there. The meeting of Otoo and this Chief, I expected, would afford fome incident worthy of observation. Otoo, and his attendants, went and featcd themfelvcs on the beach, clofe to the canoe in which Towha was. He was then afleep; but his fervants having awakened" him, and mentioning Otoo's name, immediately a plantain-tree and a dog, were laid at * Sec Captain Wallis's account of the fame operation performed on himfelf, and his firft Lieutenant, in Haw&efwdtthy$ CctkXisii, Vol. i. ;>. 4O3. t Otoo's Otoo's feet; and many of Towha's people came and talked Sc*l7J^er. with him, as I conceived, about their expedition to Eimeo. *~ f After I had, for fome time, remained fcatcd dole to Otoo, Towha neither fUrring from, his canoe, nor holding any converfation with us, I went to him. Fie afked me if Toote was angry with him. 1 anfwered, No: that he was his taio\ and that he had ordered me to go to Attahooroo to tell him fo. Omai now had a long converfation with this Chief; but I could gather no information of any kind from him. On my returning to Otoo, he feemed defirous,* that I fhould go to eat, and then to lleep. Accordingly, Omai and I left him. On queflioning Omai, he faid, the reafon of Towha's not flirring from his canoe, was his being lame; but that, pre-fently, Otoo and he would convcrfc together in private. This feemed true■> for in a little time, thofe we left with Otoo came to us ; and, about ten minutes after, Otoo himfelf arrived, and we all went to ileep in his canoe. The next morning, the ava was in great plenty. One man drank fo much that he loll; his fenfes. I fhould have fuppofed him to be in a fit, from the convulftons that agitated him. Two men held him, and kept plucking off his hair by the roots. I left this fpectacle to fee another that was more affect ing. This was the meeting of Towha and his wife, and a young girl, whom I underftood to be his daughter. After the ceremony of cutting their heads, and difcharging a tolerable quantity of blood and tears, they wafhed, embraced the Chief, and feemed unconcerned. But the young girl's fufferings were not yet come to an end. Tcrridiri* arrived; and fhe went, with great compofure, to repeat the fame ceremonies to him, which fhe had juft performed on meeting her father. Towha had brought a * Terridiri is Obcrea's Ton. See an account of the royal family of Otaheite, in JLnvh-/worth's Colhtihn, Vol. ii, p. 154. Vol. II, K large \W< large war canoe from Eimeo. I enquired if he had killed September. " , A i-^-w the people belonging to her j and was told, that there was no man in her when fhe was captured. We left Tettaha, about ten or eleven o'clock, and landed, clofe to the moral of Attahooroo, a little after noon. There lay three canoes, hauled upon the beach, oppofite the moral, with three hogs expofed in each : their fheds, or awnings, had fomething under them which I could not difcern. Wc expeef ed the folemnity to be performed the fame afternoon; but as neither Towha nor Potatou had joined us, nothing was done. A Chief from Eimeo came with a fmall pig, and a plantain-tree, and placed them at Otoo's feet. They talked fome time together \ and the Eimeo Chief often repeating the words, Warty, ivarry, " falfe," I fuppofed that Otoo was relating to him what he had heard, and that the other denied it. The next day (Wednefday) Towha, and Potatou, with about eight large canoes, arrived, and landed near the moral. Many plantain-trees were brought, on the part of different Chiefs, to Otoo. Towha did not flir from his canoe. The'deire-mony began by the principal pricfl bringing out the maro, wrapped up; and a bundle, fhaped like a large fugar-loaf. Thefe were placed at the head of what I undcrflood to be a grave. Then three priefls came, and fat down oppofite, that is, at the other end of the grave; bringing with vhem a plantain-tree, the branch of fome other tree, and the fheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut tree. The priefls, with thefe things in their hands, feparately repeated fentences; and, at intervals, two, and fometirries all three fung a melancholy ditty, little attended to by the people. This praying and finging continued for an hour. Then, after a fhort prayer, the principal pricfl uncovered 4 the the maro 5 and Otoo rofe up, and wrapped it about him, Sep\7c7mt>er. holding, at the fame time, in his hand, a cap or bonnet, \—-%-' compofed of the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird, mixed with other feathers of a dark colour. He flood in the middle fpace, facing the three priefts, who continued their prayers for about ten minutes -, when a man, ftarting from the crowd, faid fomething which ended with the word heiva! and the crowd echoed back to him, three times, Earee! This, as I had been told before, was the principal part of the folemnity. The company now moved to the oppofite fide of the great pile of ftones, where is, what they call, the king's morai; which is not unlike a large grave. Here the fame ceremony was performed over again, and ended in three cheers. The maro was now wrapped up, and encreafed in its fplendor by the addition of a fmall piece of red feathers, which one of the priefts gave Otoo when he had it on, and which he ftuck into it. From this place, the people went to a large hut, clofc by the morai, where they fcated themfelvcs in much greater order than is ufual among them. A man of Tiaraboo, then made on oration, which laftcd about ten minutes. He was followed by an Attahooroo man ; afterward Potatou fpokc with much greater fluency and grace than any of them ; for, in general, they fpokc in fhort, broken lentenccs, with a motion of the hand that was rather awkward. Tooteo, Otoo's orator, fpoke next; and, after him, a man from Eimeo. Two or three more fpceches were made; but not much attended to. Omai told me, that the fpceches declared, that, they fhould not light, but all be friends. As many of the fpeakers exprefled themfelvcs with warmth, poflibly there were fome K 2 recrimi- ■W recriminations and protestations of their good intentions. September. r t i i —In the midft of their fpcaking, a man of Attahooroo got up, with a fling fattened to his waift, and a large ftone placed upon his fhoukler. After parading near a quarter of an hour, in the open fpace, repeating fomething in a finging tone, he threw the ftone down. This (tone, and a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, were, after the fpeeches ended, carried to the moral; and one of the priefts, and Otoo with him, faid fomething upon the occafion. On our return to Oparre, the fea breeze having fet in, we were obliged to land; and had a pleafant walk through almofl the whole extent of Tettaha to Oparre. A tree, with two bundles of dried leaves fufpended upon it, marked the boundary of the two diftricts. The man who had performed the ceremony of the ftone and fling came with us. VVith him, Otoo's father had a long converfation. He feemed very angry. I underftood, he was enraged at the part Towha had taken in the Eimeo bufinefs." From what I can judge of this folemnity, as thus defcribed by Mr. King, it had not been wholly a thankfgiving, as Omai told us j but rather a confirmation of the treaty ; or, perhaps, both. The grave, which Mr. King fpeaks of, feems to he the very fpot where the celebration of the rites began, when the human facrifice, at which I was prefent, was offered, and before which the victim wras laid, after being removed from the fea fide. It is at this part of the moral, alfo, that they firft inveft their kings with the maro. Omai, who had been prefent when Otoo was made king, defcribed to me the whole ceremony, when we were here ; and I find it to be almoft the fame, as this that Mr. King has now defcribed, though wc underftood it to be upon a very different occafion. The plantain tree, fo often mentioned, ;is always the the firfl thing introduced, not only in all their religious ce- §c^J^Ttt remonies, but in all their debates, whether of a public or *—r—* private nature. It is alfo ufed on other occafions ; perhaps many more than we know of. While Towha was at Eimeo, one or more meiFengers came from him to Otoo every day. The meiTenger always came with a young plantain tree in his hand, which he laid down at Otoos feet, before he fpokc a word; then featcd himfelf before him, and related what he was charged with. I have feen two men in fuch high difpute that I expected they would proceed to blows; yet, on one laying a plantain tree before the other, they have both become cool, and carried on the argument without far^ ther animofity. In Ihoit, it is, upon all occafions, the olive-branch of thefe people. The war with Eimeo, and the folemn rites which were the confequence of it, being thus finally clofed, all our friends paid us a viftt on the 26th ; and, as they knew that Friday 26* we were upon the point of failing, brought with them more hogs than we could take off their hands. For, having no fait lefr, to preferve any, we wanted no more than for prefent ufe. The next day, I accompanied Otoo to Oparre ; and, before Saturday I left it, I looked at the cattle and poultry, which I had con-figncd to my friend's care, at that place. Every thing was • in a promifing way; and properly attended unto. Two of the gecfe, and two of the ducks were fitting; but the pea and tuikey hens had not begun to lay. I got from Otoo four goats; two.of which I intended to leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced ; and the other two, I propofed to referve for the ufe of any other iflands I might meet with, in my paffage to the North, * A circunih A circumftance which I (hall now mention of Otoo, will —w—fliew, that thefe people are capable of much aridrefs and art, to gain their purpofes. Amongfl other things, which, at different times, I had given to this Chief, was a fpying-glafs. After having it in his poffeilion two or three days, tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no ufe to him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him, that, as he had been his very good friend, he had got a prefent for him, which he knew would be agreeable. " Buty fays-Otoo, you mufl not let Toote know it, becaufe lie wants it, and I woufd not let him have it." He then put the glafs into Captain Clerke's hands ; at the fame time, affuring him, that he came honeftly by it. Captain Clerke, at firfl, declined accepting it ; but Otoo infilled upon it, and left it with him. Some days after, he put Captain Clerke in mind of the glafs ; who, though he did not want it, was yet de-firous of obliging Otoo; and thinking, that a few axes would be of more ufe at this ifland, produced four to give him in return. Otoo no fooncr faw this, than he faid, " Toote offered me five for it." " Well, fays Captain Gierke, if that be the cafe, your friendfhip for me fhall not make you a lofer, and you mail have fix axes." Thefe he accepted; but defired again, that I might not be told what he had done. Our friend Omai got one good thing, at this ifland, for the many good things lie gave away. This was a very fine double failing canoe, completely equipped, and fit for the fea. Some time before, I had made up for him, a ftiit of Englifli colours ; but he thought thefe too valuable to be ufed at this time; and patched up a parcel of colours, fuch as flags and pendants, to the number of ten or a dozen, which he fpread on different parts of his veiled, all at the fame fame time; and drew together as many people to look at gj^jjfiir, her, as a man of war would, drcfled, in a European port. *-—«-" Thefe ftreamers of Omai were a mixture of Englifh, French, Spanifh, and Dutch, which were all the European colours that -he had fecn. When I was lalt at this iiland, I gave to Otoo an Etiglifli jack and pendant, and to Towha a pendant; which I now found they had preferved with the greatefl care. Omai had alfo provided himfelf with a good flock of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better, at Otaheite, than at any of the Society Iflands ; infomuch, that they are articles of trade. Dmai would not have behaved,fo incontinently, and fo much unlike himfelf, as he did, in many inftances, but for his Mer and brother-in-law, who, together with a few more Of their acquaintance, engroffed him entirely to them-tfel, fhewr themfelvcs in that ifland, while I remained in the neighbourhood; and they knew me too well not to comply. On the 28th,'Otoo came on board1, and informed me, that sum'ayzs. he had got a canoe, which he defired I would take with me, and carry home, as a prefent from him to the Earee rahie no Vretone; it being the. only thing, he faid,. that he could fend „ '777; fend worth his MaieftVs acceptance, I was not a little September. J * 1 \ \_.-v-^ pleafed with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude. It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the leaft hint about it; and it mewed, that he fully underftood to whom he was indebted for the moft valuable prefents that he had received. At firft, I thought, that this canoe had been a model of one of their veffels of war; but I foon found, that it was a fmall ivahah, about fixteen feet long. It was double, and feemed to have been built for the purpofe ; and was decorated with all thofe pieces of carved work, which they ufually fix upon their canoes. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank him for his good intention ; but it would have pleafed him much better, if his prefent could have been accepted. We were detained here fome days longer than I expected, by light breezes from the Weft, and calms by turns ; fo that wc could not get out of the bay. During this time, the fhips were crowded with our friends, and furrounded by a multitude of canoes ; for not one would leave the place, till we were gone. At length, at three o'clock in the afternoon Monday 5. of the 29th, the wind came at Eaft, and we weighed anchor. As foon as the mips were under fail, at the requeftof Otoo, and to gratify the curiofity of his people, I fired feven guns, loaded with fhotj after which, all our friends, except him, and two or three more, left us with fuch marks of affection and grief, as fufficiently mewed how much they regretted our departure. Otoo being defirous of feeing the fhip fail, I made a ft retch out to fea, and then in again ; when he alfo bui us farewell, and went afhore in his canoe. The frequent vifrs we had lately paid to this iiland, feem to have created a full perfuafion, that the intercourfe will not be difcondnued. It was ftnetly enjoined to me by Otoo, to to rcqueft, in Ins name, the Earee rahie no Prctanc, to fend s^J^Tt him, by the next (hips, red feathers, and the birds that pro- *---*--* tlucc them ; axes j half a dozen muikets, with powder and mot ; and, by no means, to forget horfes. I hive occafionally mentioned my receiving confiderable prefents from Otoo, and the red of the family, without fpc-cifying what returns 1 made. It is cuflomary for thele people, when they make a prefent* to let us know what they expect in return ; and we find it neceflary to gratify them ; fo that, what we get by way of prefent, comes dearer than what we get by barter. But as we were fometimcs prclTed by occafional fcarcity, wc could have rccourfc to our friends for a prefent, or fupply, when wc could not get our wants relieved by any other method; and, therefore, upon the whole, this way of traffic was full as advantageous to us as to the natives. For the mod part, I paid for each feparate article as I received it, except in my intercourfe with Otoo. His prefents, generally, came fo fall upon me, that no account was kept between us. Whatever he afked for, that I could fpare, he had whenever he alkcd for it; and I always found him moderate in his demands. If I could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himfelf at Otaheite, I fhould not have left it fo foon as I did. For there was not a probability of our being better or cheaper fupplicd with refrefhmcnts at any other place, than we continued to be here, even at the time of our leaving it. Befide?, fuch a cordial friendfhip and confidence fubfiilcd between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected any where elfe ; and, it was a little extraordinary, that this friendly intercourfe had never once been fufpended, by any untoward accident; nor had there been a theft committed Vol. II. L that 74 AVOYAGETO ' ,7/7- that dcfervcs to be mentioned. Not that I believe their mo- September. ^—w--> rals, in this refpect, to be much mended ; but am rather of opinion, that their regularity of conduct: was owing to the fear, the Chiefs were under, of interrupting a traffic which they might confidcr as the means of fecuring to themfelvcs a more confiderable fhare of our commodities, than could have been got by plunder or pilfering. Indeed, this point I fettled at the firft interview with their Chiefs, after my arrival. For, obferving the great plenty that was in the ifland, and the eagernefs of the natives to poffefs our various articles of trade, I refolved to make the mofl of thefe two favourable circumdances, and explained myfelf, in the mofl decifive terms, that I would not fuffcr them to rob us, as they had done upon many former occafions. In this, Omai was of great ufe, as I inflrueted him to point out to them the good confcqucnccs of their honed conduct: j and the fatal mifchiefs they mud expect: to fuffer by deviating from it. It is not always in the power of the Chiefs to prevent robberies j they are frequently robbed themfelvcs; and complain of it as a great evil. Otoo left the mod valuable things he had from me, in my pofrefTion, till the day before wc failed ; and the rcafon he gave for it was, that they were no where fo fafe. Since the bringing in of new riches, the inducements to pilfering mud have increafed. The Chiefs, fenlible of this, are now extremely defirous of cheds. They feemed to fet much value upon a few that the Spaniards had ^ left amongfl them; and they were continually afking us for fome. I had one made for Otoo, the dimenfions of which, according to his own directions, were eight feet in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts were not a fufficient fecurity ; but it mud be large 5 enough enough for two people to ileep upon, by way of guarding Sep7e7^bCr. it in the night. v~—«-' It will appear a little extraordinary, that we, who had a fniattcring of their language, and Omai, befides, for an interpreter, could never get any clear account of the time when the Spaniards arrived, how long they flayed, and when they departed. The more we inquired into this matter, the more wc were convinced of the inability of moll of thefe people to remember, or note the time, when pall events happened; efpecially if it exceeded ten or twenty months. It, however, appeared, by the date of the inferip-tion upon the crofs, and by the information we received from the mofl intelligent of the natives, that two fhips arrived at Oheitepeha in 1774, foon after I left Matavai, which was in May, the fame year. They brought with them the houfe and live flock, before mentioned. Some faid, that, after landing thefe things, and fome men, they failed in quell of me, and returned in about ten days. But I have fome doubt of the truth of this, as they were never feen, cither at Huaheinc, or at Ulietea. The live flock they left here, confiiled of one bull, fome goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of fome other animal; which we afterward found to be a ram, and, at this*time, was at Bolabola, whither the bull was alfo to have been tranfported. The hogs are of a large kind; have already greatly improved the breed originally found by us upon the ifland; and, at the time of our late arrival, were very numerous. Goats arc, alfo, in tolerable plenty, there being hardly a Chief of any note who has not got fome. As to the dogs that the Spaniards put afhore, which are of two or three forts, I think they would have done the ifland a great deal more fervicc, if they had hanged them all, inflead of leav- L 2 ing September tncm llPon lt- iC was to one or* them, that my young »-1- ram fell a victim. When thefe mips left the iiland, four Spaniards remained behind. Two were priefts, one a fervant, and the fourth made himfelf very popular among the natives, who dif-tinguifh him by the name of Matcema. He feems to have been a perfon who had ftudied their language'; or, at leaft, to have fpokcn it fo as to be underftood ; and to have taken uncommon pains to imprefs the minds of the iftanders with the moll exalted ideas of the greatnefs of the Spanifh nation, and to make them think meanly of the Englifh. He even went fo far as to allure them, that wc no longer cx-ifled as an independent nation ; that Pretane was only a fmall ifland, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely de-ftroyed ; and, for me, that they had met with me at fea, and, with a few (hot, had fent my fhip, and every foul in her, to the bottom ; fo that my vifiting Otaheite, at this time, was, of courfe, very unexpected. All this, and many other improbable falfchoods, did this Spaniard make thefe people believe. If Spain had no other views, in this expedition, but to depreciate the Englifh, they had better have kept their fhips at home; for my returning again to Ota* heitc, was confulcred as a complete confutation of all that Matcema had faid* With what defign the priefts flayed, we can only guefs. If it was to convert the natives to the catholic faith, they have not f ucceedecl in any one inftance. But it does not tip* pear, that they ever attempted it; for, if the natives are to he believed, they never converfed with them, either on this, or on any other fubject. The priefls refided conftantly in the houfe at Oheitepeha ; but Matcema roved about, vifiting moft parts of the ifland. At length, after he and his com-6 pan ions panions had Maid ten months, two fhips came to Oheitepeha, Sep,7/m7^r„ took them on board, and failed again in five days. This *—*-1 hafty departure (hews, that, whatever defign the Spaniards might have had upon this ifland, they had now laid it afide. And yet, as I was informed by Otoo, and many others, before they went away, they would have the natives believe, that they ftill meant to return, and to bring with them houfes, all kinds of animals, and men and women who were to fettle, live, and die, on the ifland. Otoo, when he told me this, added, that if the Spaniards fhould return, he would not let them come to Matavai Fort, which, he faid, was ours. It was eafy to fee, that the idea plcafed him; little thinking, that the completion of it would, at once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their liberties. This fhews with what facility a fettlcmcnt might be made at Otaheite ; which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will never happen. Our occafional vifits may, in fome re-fpects, have benefited its inhabitants; but a permanent cflablifhment among If them, conducted as moll European eftablifhmems amongft Indian nations have unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them juft caufe to lament, that our fhips had ever found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely, that any meafurc of this kind mould ever be fieri— oufly thought of, as it can neither ferve the purpofes of public ambition, nor of private avarice; and, without fuch-inducements, I may pronounce, that it will never be undertaken. I have already mentioned the vifit that I had from one of the two natives of this ifland, who had been carried by the Spaniards to Lima. I never faw him afterward; which I rather wondered at, as I had received him with uncommon civility. I believe, however, that Omai had kept him at a d.i ftan.ee „ I777- diflance from me, by fome rough ufa?e ; jealous, that there September. ' c' ° w-v—' mould be another traveller upon the ifland, who might vie with himfelf. Our touching at Tencriffc was a fortunate cir-cumflance for Omai; as he prided himfelf in having vifited a place belonging to Spain, as well as this man. I did not meet with the other, who had returned from Lima; but Captain Clerke, who had fecn him, fpokc of him as a low-fellow, and as a little out of his fenfes. His own countrymen, I found, agreed in the fame account of him. In fhort, thefe two adventurers feemed to be held in no efleem. They had not, indeed, been fo fortunate as to return home with fuch valuable acquifitions of property, as we had bellowed upon Omai ; and with the advantages he reaped from his voyage to England, it mutt be his own fault, if he fhould fink into the fame Hate of infignificancc. CHAP. C H A P. V, Arrival at Eimeo.—Two El arbours there, and an Account of them.—Vifit from Maheine, Chief of the If and.— His Perfon defcribed.—A Goat flolen, a?id fent back with the Thief.—Another Goat fiolen and fecreted—. Meafures taken o?i the Occafion.—Expedition crofs the If and.—Houfes and Canoes burnt.—The Goat delivered up, and Peace reflored%—Some Account of the If and, Wc. A S I did not give up my defign of touching at Eimeo, 1777 at day-break, in the morning of the 30th, after leav- v. September. ■—' ing Otaheite, I flood for the North end of the ifland; the harbour, which I wifhed to examine, being at that part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before us, had taken fome neceffary meafures to fhew us the place. However, wc were not without pilots, having feveral men of Otaheite on board, and not a few women. Not caring to trufl entirely to thefe guides, I fent two boats to examine the harbour; and on their making the fignal for fafe anchorage, we flood in with the fhips, and anchored clofe up to-the head of the inlet, in ten fathoms water, over a bottom of foft mud, and moored with a hawfer fafl to the fhorc. This harbour, which is called Taloo, is fituated upon the North fide of the ifland, in the diftricl: of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. Tuefday 30* i*77* Poonohoo. It runs in South, or South by Eail, between September. . , r c_-v—/ the hills, above two miles. For fecurity, and goodneis or its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour that 1 have met with at any of the iflands in this ocean; and it has this advantage over moll of them, that a fhip can fail in and out, with the reigning trade wind; fo that the accefs and recefs are equally eafy. There are feveral rivulets that fall into it. The one, at the head, is fo confiderable as to admit boats to go a quarter of a mile up, where we found the water perfectly frefli. Its banks arc covered with the pooroo tree, as it is called by the natives, which makes good firing, and which they fet no value upon ; fo that wood and water arc to be got here with great facility. On the fame fide of the iiland, and about two miles to the- Eaftward, is the harbour of Parowroah, much larger within than that of Taloo ; but the entrance, or opening in the reef (for the whole ifland is furrounded by a reef of coral rock) is confiderably narrower, and lies to leeward of the harbour. Thefe two defects are fo finking, that the harbour of Taloo mull always have a decided preference. It is a little extraordinary, that I fhould have been three times at Otaheite before, and have once fent a boat to Eimeo, and yet not know, till now, that there was a harbour in it. On the contrary, I always underftood, there was not. Whereas, there arc net only the two above mentioned, but one or two more, on the South fide of the ifland. But thefe laft are not fo confiderable as the two we have jufl defcribed, and of which a fketch has been made for the ufe of thofe who may follow us in fuch a jvoyage. We had no fooner anchored, than the.fhips were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiofity alone brought on board; board; for they had nothing with them for the purpofes of qUI^ barter. But, the next morning, this deficiency was fup- — plied ; feveral canoes then arriving from more diftant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. Thefe they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads; for red feathers were not fo much fought after here as at Otaheite. The (hip being a good deal peft-ered with rats, I hauled her within thirty yards of the fhore, as near as the depth of water would allow, and made a path for them to get to the land, by fattening hawfers to the trees. It is laid, that this experiment has fometimes fucceeded; but, I believe, wc got clear of very few, if any, of the numerous tribe that haunted us. In the morning of the 2d, Maheine, the Chief of the TWJay ifland, paid me a vifit. He approached the fhip with great caution, and it required fome pcrfuafion to get him on board. Probably, he was under fome apprchenfions of mif-chicf from us, as friends of the Otaheiteans; thefe people, not being able to comprehend, how we can be friends with any one, without adopting, at the fame time, his caufe againft his enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who, as I was informed, is Mer toOamo, of Otaheite, of whofe death we had an account, while we were at this iiland. I made prefents to both of them, of fuch things as they feemed to fet the higheft value upon ; and after a ftay of about half an hour, they went away. Not long after, they returned with a large hog, which they meant as a return for my prefent; but I made them another prefent to the full value of it. After this, they paid a vifit to Captain Clerke. This Chief, who, with a few followers, has made himfelf, in a manner, independent of Otaheite, is between forty and Vol. II. M fifty fifty years old. He is bald-headed; which is rather an October. c—v—^ uncommon appearance in thefe iflands, at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and feemed afhamed to fliew his head. But, whether they themfelvcs confidered this deficiency of hair as a mark of difgrace, or whether they entertained a notion of our confidering it as fuch, I cannot fay. We judged that the latter fuppofition was the truth, from this circumflancc, that they had feen us lhave the head of one of their people, whom we had caught Healing. They, therefore, concluded, that this was the punifhment ufually inflicted by us upon all thieves; and one or two of our gentlemen, whofe heads were not over-burthened with hair, we could obferve, lay under violent fufpicions of being tetos. In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horfeback, and took a ride along the fhore to the Eafl ward. Our train was not very numerous, as Omai had forbid the natives to follow us ; and many complied ; the fear of giving offence, getting the better of their curiofity. Towha had flationeel his fleet in this harbour ; and though the war laftcd but a few days, the marks of its devaftation were every where to be feen. The trees were dripped of their fruit; and all the houfes in the neighbourhood, had been pulled down or burnt. Having employed two or three days in getting up all our fpirit calks, to tar their heads, which we found neceffary, to fave them from the efforts of a fmall infect to deflroy them, Monday6, We hauled the fhip off into the ftream, on the 6th in the morning, intending to put to fea the next day; but an accident happened that prevented it, and gave me a good deal of trouble. Wc had fent our goats afliore, in the day time, to graze, with two men to look after them ; notwithflanding which which precaution, the natives had contrived to Meal one of *tt7> 1 October. them this evening. The lofs of this goat would have been '--—- of little confequencc, if it had not interfered with my views of flocking other iflands with thefe animals ; but this being the cafe, it became ncceffary to recover it, if pof- fiblc. The next morning, we got intelligence, that it had Tuefday7« been carried to Maheine, the Chief, who was, at this time, at Parowroah harbour. Two old men offered to conduci: any of my people, whom I might think proper to fend to him, to bring back the goat. Accordingly, I difpatched them in a boat, charged with a threatening menage to Maheine, if the goat was not immediately given up to me, and alfo the thief. It was only the day before, that this Chief had requeued me to give him two goats. But, as I could not fpare them, unlcfs at the cxpence of other iflands, that might never have another opportunity to get any, and had, befides, heard that there were already two upon this ifland, I did not gratify him. However, to fhew my inclination to affift his views in this refpecf, I defired Tidooa, an Otaheite Chief, who was prefent, to beg Otoo, in my name, to fend two of thefe animals to Maheine ; and, by way of infuring a compliance with this rcquefl, I fent to Otoo, by this Chief, a large piece of red feathers, equal to the value of the two goats that I required. I expected that this arrangement would have been fatisfactory to Maheine, and all the other Chiefs of the iiland j but the event mewed that 1 was miftaken. Not thinking, that any one would dare to Real a fecond, at the very time 1 was taking meafures to recover the firfl, the goats were put afhore again this morning; and in the M ft evening 1777- evening a boat was fent to brins; them on board. As our October. ° ° ,-1 people were getting them into the boat, one was carried off undiscovered. It being immediately miffed, I made no doubt of recovering it without much trouble, as there had not been time to carry it to any confiderable diflance. Ten or twelve of the natives fet out, foon after, different ways, to bring it back, or to look for it ; for not one of them would own that it was Rolen, but all tried to perfuadc us, that it had ft rayed into the woods; and, indeed, I thought fo myfelf. I was convinced to the contrary, however, when I found that not one of thofe who went in purfuit of it, returned ; fo that their only view was to amufe me, till their prize was beyond my reach ; and night coming on, put a flop to all farther fearch, About this time, the boat returned with the other goat, bringing alfo one of the men who had ftolen it; the firfl inflance of the kind that I had met with amongfl thefe iflands. Wcdnef. 8. The next morning, I found that mofl of the inhabitants in the neighbourhood, had moved off; carrying with them a corpfe which lay on a toopapaoo oppofitc the fhip; and that Maheine himfelf had retired to the mofl diflant part of the ifland. It feemed now no longer doubtful, that a plan had been laid to fleal what I had refufed to give ; and that, though they had reflored one, they were refolvcd to keep the other; which was a fhc-goat, and big with kid. I was equally fixed in my refolution that they fhould not keep it. I, therefore, applied to the two old men who had been in-ftrumental in getting back the firfl. They told me, that this had been carried to Watea, a diflrict on the South fide of the ifland, by Hartioa, the Chief of that place; but that, if I would fend any body for it, it would be delivered up. They offered to conduct fome of my people crofs the ifland; but on on my learning from them, that a boat might go and re- '777* ° tj u October. turn the fame day, I fent one, with two petty officers, Mr. <-„—* Roberts and Mr. Shuttleworth ; one to remain with the boat, in cafe fhe could not get to the place, while the other fhould go with the guides, and one or two of our people. Late in the evening, the boat returned, and the officers informed me, that after proceeding as far in the boat as rocks and fhoals would permit, Mr. Shuttleworth, with two marines, and one of the guides, landed and travelled to Watca, to the houfe of Hamoa, where the people of the place amufed them for fome time, by telling them, that the goat would foon be brought, and pretended they had fent for it. It however never came; and the approach of night obliged Mr. Shuttleworth to return to the boat without it. I was now very forry, that I had proceeded fo far; as I could not retreat with any tolerable credit, and without giving encouragement to the people of the other iflands we had yet to vifir, to rob us with impunity. I afked Omai and the two old men, what methods I fhould next take ; and they, without hefitation, advifed me to go with a party of men into the country, and moot every foul I fhould meet with. This bloody counfel I could not follow; but I refolved to march a party of men crofs the ifland; and, at day-break Thurfday 9. the next morning, fet out with thirty-five of my people, accompanied by one of the old men, by Omai, and three or four of his attendants. At the fame time, I ordered Lieutenant Williamfon, with three armed boats, round the Weflern part of the ifland, to meet us. I had no fooner landed with my party, than the few natives who ftill remained in the neighbourhood, fled before us. The firfl man that we met with upon our march, run fome rifk of 3 his 1777. his life ; for Omai, the moment he faw him, afked me if he October. v—%—-j mould flioot him; fo fully was he perfuaded, that I was going to carry his advice into execution. 1 immediately ordered both him and our guide to make it known, that I did not intend to hurt, much lefs to kill, a fmgle native. Thefe glad tidings flew before us like lightning, and flopped the flight of the inhabitants ; fo that no one quitted his houfe, or employment, afterward. As we began to afcend the ridge of hills over which lay our road, we got intelligence, that the goat had been carried that way before us and, as wc underftood, could not, as yet, have paffed the hills; fo that we marched up, in great filencc, in hopes of furprifmg the party who were bearing off the prize. But when we had got to the upper-mofl plantation on the fide of the ridge, the people there told us, that what we were in fcarch of had, indeed, been kept there the firfl night, but had been carried, the next morning, to Watea, by Hamoa. We then croffed the ridge without making any further inquiry, till we came within fight of Watea, where fome people fhe wed us Ilamoas houfe, and told us, that the goat was there; fo thfFt I made no doubt of getting it immediately upon my arrival. But when I reached the houfe, to my very great furprize, the few people wc met with denied that they had ever feen it, or knew any thing about it; even Hamoa himfelf came, and made the fame declaration. On our firfl coming to the place, I obferved feveral men running to and fro in the woods, with clubs and bundles of darts in their hands; and Omai, who followed them, had fome Hones thrown at him; fo that it feemed as if they had intended to oppofe any Hep I fhould take, by force; but on feeing feeing my party was too ftrong, had dropped the defign. I &Pfar was confirmed in this notion, by obferving, that all their v_—» houfes were empty. Afer getting a few of the people of the place together, I defired Omai to expoftulate with them on the abfurdity of the conduci: they were purfuing; and to tell them, that, from the teflimony of many on whom I could depend, I was well affured, that the goat was in their poffcflion; and, therefore, infilled upon its being delivered up, otherwife I would burn their houfes and canoes. Bur, notwithflanding all that I or Omai could fay, they continued to deny their having any knowledge of it. The con-fequence was, that I fet fire to fix or eight houfes, which were prcfently confumed, with two or three war-canoes that lay contiguous to them. This done, 1 marched off to join the boats, which were about feven or eight miles from us; and, in our way, we burnt fix more war-canoes, without any one attempting to oppofe us ; on the contrary, many aflift-ed, though, probably, more out of fear than good-will. In one place, Omai, who had advanced a little before, came back with information, that a great many men were getting together to attack us. We made ready to receive them ; but, inflead of enemies, we found petitioners with plantain-trees in their hands, which they laid down at my feet, and begged that I would fpare a canoe that lay clofe by ; which I readily complied with. At length, about four in the afternoon, we got to the boats, that were waiting at Wharraradc, the diftrieT belonging to Tiarataboonoue; but this Chief, as well as all the principal people of the place, had fled to the hills ; though I touched not a fingle thing that was their property, as they were the friends of Otoo. After refling ourfelves here about an hour, we fet out for the fhips, where we ar- 5 rived SS AVOYAGETO 1777. rived about eight o'clock in the evening;. At that time, no w-' account of the goat had been received; fo that the operations of this day had not produced the defired effect. Fnday 10. Early next morning, I difpatched one of Omai's men to Maheine, with this peremptory meffage, that, if he perilled in his refufal, I would not leave him a fmgle canoe upon the ifland, and that he might expect a continuation of hofti-litics as long as the flolcn animal remained in his poffef-fion. And, that the meflenger might fee that I was in carnell, before he left me, I fent the carpenter to break up three or four canoes that lay afhore at the head of the harbour. The plank was carried on board, as materials for building a houfe for Omai, at the place where he intended to fettle. I afterward went, properly accompanied, to the next harbour, where we broke up three or four more canoes, and burnt an equal number; and then returned on board about feven in the evening. On my arrival, I found that the goat had been brought back, about half an hour before; and, on inquiry, it appeared that it had come from the very place where I had been told, the day before, by the inhabitants, that they knew nothing of it. But in confequence of the meffage I fent to the Chief in the morning, it was judged prudent to trifle with me no longer. Thus ended this troublefomc, and rather unfortunate, bu-finefs ; which could not be more regretted on the part of the natives, than it was on mine. And it grieved me to reflect, that, after refufmg the pre fling felicitations of my friends at Otaheite to favour their invafion of this ifland, I mould, fo foon, find myfelf reduced to the ncceffity of engaging in hoflilities againfl its inhabitants, which, perhaps, did them more mifchief than they had fullered from Towha's expedition. The The next morning, our intercourfe with the natives was renewed; and fevcral canoes brought, to the fhips, bread- *——' fruit and cocoa-nuts to barter; from whence it was natural "auiul) 1 for mc to draw this conclufion, that they were confeious it was their own fault, if I had treated them with feverity ; and that the caufe of my difpleafurc being removed, they had a full confidence that no further mifchief would enfue. About nine o'clock, we weighed with a breeze down the harbour; but it proved fo faint and variable, that it was noon before we got out to fea, when I fleered for Huahcine, attended by Omai in his canoe. He did not depend entirely upon his own judgment, but had got on board a pilot. I obferved, that they fhaped as direct a courfe for the ifland as I could do. At Eimeo we abundantly fupplied the fhips with firewood. Wc had not taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have been very inconvenient; there not being a tree at Matavai, but what is ufeful to the inhabitants. We alfo got here good flore of refreshments, both in hogs and vegetables; that is, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts ; little elfe being in feafon. I do not know that there is any difference between the produce of this ifland and of Otaheite ; but there is a very flriking difference in their women, that I can by no means account for, Thofe of Eimeo are of low flature, have a dark hue; and, in general, forbidding features'. If we met with a fine woman amongfl them, we were fure, upon enquiry, to find that flic had come from fome other iiland* The general appearance of Eimeo is very different from that of Otaheite. The latter rifing in one flcep hilly body, has little low land, except fome deep valleys ; and the flat bor- Vol.41. N der der that Surrounds the greatcfl part of it, toward the fea. Eimeo, on the contrary, lias hills running in different directions, which, are very ftecp and rugged, leaving, in the interfpaces, very large valleys, and gently-rifing grounds about their fides. Thefe hills, though of a rocky difpofition, are, in general, covered, almoil to their tops, with trees ; but the lower parts, on the fides, frequently only with fern. At the bottom of the harbour, where we lay, the ground rifes gently to the foot of the hills which run acrofs nearly in the middle of the ifland ; but its flat border, on each fide, at a very fmall diflance from the fea, becomes quite fleep. This gives it a romantic eafl, which renders it a profpecT fuperior to any thing we faw at Otar heite. The foil, about the low grounds, is a ycllowifh and pretty fliff mould; but, upon the lower hills, it is blacker and more loofe: and the ftone that compofes the hills is*, when broken, of a blueifh colour, but not very compact texture, with fome particles of glimmer interfperfed. Thefe particulars feem worthy of obfervation. Perhaps the reader will think differently of my judgment, when I add, that, near the flation of our fhips, were two large floncs, or rather rocks, concerning which the natives have fome Super-flitious notions. They confider them as Eatooas, or Divinities ; faying, that they are brother and fjfler, and that they came, by fome Supernatural means, from Ulietea. C II A P. c n a p. vi. Arrival at Huaheine.—Council of the Chiefs.—Omais Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs.—His Eflablifj-mcnt in this If and agreed to.—A Houfe built, and Garden planted for him.—Singularity of his Situation, —Meafures taken to infure his Safety.—Damage done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships.—A Thief detected and pun fed.—Fire-works exhibited.—Animals left with Omai.—His Family.—Weapons.',—Infcription on his Houfe.—His Behaviour on the Ship's leaving the Ifland.—Summary Fiew of his Conduct and Character. —Account of the two New 7*ealand Youths. H AVING left Eimeo, with a gentle breeze and fine ° Odobcr. weather, ,at day-break, the next morning, we faw Huaheine, extending from South Weft by Weft, half Weft, to Weft by North. At noon, we anchored at the North entrance of Owharre harbour *, which is on the Weft lide of the ifland. The whole afternoon was fpent in warping the fhips into a proper birth, and mooring. Omai entered the harbour juft before us, in his canoe, but did not land. Nor did he take much notice of any of his countrymen, though many crowded to fee him; but far more of them came off to the fhips, infomuch that we could hardly work on account of their numbers. Our paffengcrs prc- * See a plan of this harbour in Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. ii. p. 248. N 2 fently Sunday 12. 92 AVOYAGETO oaober U2nt^y acquainted them with what we had done at Eimeo, »->—j and multiplied the number of houfes and canoes that we had deflroycd, by ten at lead. I was not forry for this exaggerated account; as I faw, that it made a great impref-fion upon all who heard it; fo that I had hopes it would induce the inhabitants of this ifland to behave better to us, than they had done during my former vifits. While I was at Otaheite, I had learned that my old friend Orcc was no longer the Chief of Huaheine; and that, at this time, he rcfidcd at Ulietea. Indeed, he never had been more than regent during the minority of Taireetareea, the prefent Earee rahle; but he did not give up the regency, till he was forced. His two fons, Opoony and Towha, were the jirft who paid me a vifit, coming on board before the fhip was well in the harbour, and bringing a prefent with them. Our arrival brought ail the principal people cf the ifland Monday 15. to our fhips, on the next morning, being the 13th. This was jufl what I wifhed, as it was high time to think of fettling Omai; and the prefence of thefe Chiefs, I guefTed, would enable me to do it in the mofl Satisfactory manner. He now feemed to have an inclination to eflablifh himfelf at Ulietea; and if he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing that plan to bear, I fhould have had no objection to adopt it. His father had been difpoffeffed by the men of Bolabola, when they conquered Ulietea, of fome land in that iiland; and 1 made no doubt of being able to get it reflored to the fon in an amicable manner. For that purpofe it was ncceffary, that he fhould be upon good terms with thofe who now were mailers of the ifland ; but he was too great a patriot to liflen to any fuch thing \ and was vain vain enough to fuppofe, that I would reinflatc him in his ^tf* forfeited lands by force. This made it impoffible to fix him *—-v——* at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine as the proper place. I, therefore, refolvcd to avail myfelf of the prefence of the chief men of the ifland, and to make this propofal to them. After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal -vifit to Taireetareca, meaning then to introduce this bufinefs. Omai dreffed himfelf very properly on the occafion ; and prepared a handfome prefent for the Chief himfelf, and another for his Eatooa. Indeed, after he had got clear of the gang that furrounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with fuch prudence as to gain refpect. Our landing drew mofl: of our viliters from the fhips; and they, as well as thofe that were on more, aiTcmbled in a large houfe. The concourfe of people, on this occafion, was very great ; and, amongfl: them, there appeared to be a greater proportion of perfonable men and women than wc had ever feen in one aflembly at any of thefe new iflands. Not only the bulk of the people feemed, in general, much ftouter and fairer than thofe of Otaheite, but there was alfo a much greater number of men who appeared to be of confequence, in proportion to the extent of the ifland ; mofl of whom had exactly the corpulent appearance of the Chiefs of Wateeo. We waited fome time for Taireetareca, as I would do nothing till the Earce rahic came ; but when he appeared, I found that his prefence might have been difpenfed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who -Hood at a little diflance from this circle of great men, began with making his offering to the Gods, confiding of red feathers, cloth, &c. Then followed another offering, which was -to be given to the Gods by the Chief j and, after that, £ feveral feveral other fmall pieces and tufts of red feathers were pre- fented. Each article was laid before one of the company, who, I underlined, was a pried, and was delivered with a fet fpecch or prayer, fpoken by one of Omai's friends, who far by h m, but motlly dictated by himfelf. In thefe prayers, he did not forget his friends in England, nor thofe who had brought him Safe back. The Earee rahie no Tretanc, Lord Sandwich Toote, Tatee*, were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's offerings and prayers were fmifhed, the pricfl took each article, in the fame order in which it had been laid before him, and after repeating a prayer, fent it to the moral; which, as Omai told us, was at a great diflance, otherwise the offerings would have been made there. Thefe religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai fat down by me, and we entered upon bufmefs, by giving the young Chief my prefent, and receiving his in return ; and, all things confidcrcd, they were liberal enough, on both fides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, as to the manner of carrying on the intercourfe betwixt us ; and I pointed out the mifchicvous confequences that would attend their robbing us, as they had done during my former vifits. Omai's eflablifhmcnt was then propofed to the af-femblcd Chiefs. He acquainted them, " That he had been carried by us into our country, where he was well received by the great King and his Earees, and treated with every mark of regard and affection, while he ftaid amongfl us; that he had been brought back again, enriched, by our liberality, with a variety of articles, which would prove very ufeful to his * Cook and Clerke. 7 country- countrymen ; and that, befides the two horfes which were October. to remain with him, fevcral other new and valuable ani- -1—- mals had been left at Otaheite, which would foon multiply, and furnifh a fufficicnt number for the ufe of all the iflands in the neighbourhood. He then fignified to them, that it was my. carncft requcft, in return for all my friendly offices, that they would give him a piece of land, to build a houfe upon, and to raife provifions for himfelf and fervants ; adding, that, if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchafe, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." Perhaps I have here made a better fpeech for my friend; than he actually delivered; but thefe were the topics I dictated to him. I obferved, that what he concluded with, about carrying him to Ulietea, feemed to meet with the ap^ probation of all the Chiefs ; and I inflantly faw the reafon. Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered himfelf, that I meant to ufe force in reftoring him to his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly, and with* out any authority from me, on this fubject, to fome of the prefent aflembly; who dreamed of nothing lefs than a hof-tile invalion of Ulietea. and of being affiiled by me to drive the Bolabola men out of that ifland. It was of confequence, therefore, that 1 mould undeceive them ; and, in order to this, I fignified, in the mofl peremptory manner, that I neither would alM them in fuch an enterprize, nor fuffer it to be put in execution, while. I was in their fcas; and that, if Omai fixed himieif in Ulietea, he muft be introduced as a friend, and not forced upon the Bolabola men as their conqueror. This declaration gave a new turn to the fentiments of the council. One of the Chiefs immediately expreffed himfelf to (\-iobcr to tnis Ci^^ : " T*iat me wnole ifland of Huaheine, and v—every thing in it, were mine; and that, therefore, 1 might give what portion of it I pleafed to my friend." Omai, who, like the reft of his countrymen, feldom fees things beyond the prefent moment, was greatly pleafed to hear this; thinking, no doubt, that I fhould be very liberal, and give him enough. But to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I confidercd as offering nothing at all; and, therefore, I now defircd, that they would not only aflign the particular fpot, but alfo the exact quantity of land, which they would allot for the fettlcment. Upon this, fome Chiefs, who had already left the afiembly, were fent for ; and, after a fhort confutation among themfelvcs, my requeft was granted by general confent; and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the houfe where our meeting was held. The extent, along the fhore of the harbour, was about two hundred yards ; and its depth, to the foot of the hill, fomewhat more; but a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. This bufinefs being fettled to the fatisfaction of all parties, I fet up a tent afhore, eftablifhed a poll, and erected the obfervatorics. The carpenters of both fhips were alfo fet to work, to build a fmall houfe for Omai, in which he might fecurc the European commodities that were his property. At the fame time, fome hands were employed in making a garden for his ufe, planting fhaddocks, vines, pine-apples, melons, and the feeds of feveral other vegetable articles; all of which 1 had the fatisfaction of obferving to be in aflou-rifhing ftate before I left the ifland. Omai now began feriouily to attend to his own aftairs.5 .and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. Otaheite. He found at Huaheine, a brother, a filter, and a brother-in-law ; the filler being married. But thefe did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. I was forry, however, to difeover, that, though they were too honell to do him any injury, they were of too little con-Sequence in the ifland to do him any pofuive good. They had neither authority nor influence to protect his perfon, or his property ; and, in that helplcfs fituation, I had reafon to apprehend, that he run great rifk of being flripped of every thing he had got from us, as foon as he mould ceafe to have us within his reach, to enforce the good behaviour of his countrymen, by an immediate appeal to our irre-iifliblc power. A man who is richer than his neighbours is fure to be envied, by numbers who wifli to fee him brought down to their own level. But in countries where civilization, law, a; d religion, impofc their restraints, the rich have a reafon-ablc ground of fecurity. And, bcfulcs, there being, in all fuch communities, a diffufion of property, no fingle individual need fear, that the efforts of all the poorer fort can ever be united to injure him, exclufively of others who are equally the objects of envy. It was very different with Omai. He was to live amongfl thofe who arc ltrangcrs, in a great meafurc, to any other principle of action befides the immediate impulfe of their natural feelings. But, what was his principal danger, he was to be placed in the very lingular fituation, of being the only rich man in the community to which he was to belong. And having, by a fortunate connection with us, got into his poflcflion an accumulated quantity of a fpecics of trcafure which none of his countrymen could create by any art or induflry of their own; while all coveted a fhare of this envied wealth, it Vol. II. O. was o'°7o7ber was natura^ t0 apprehend, that all would be ready to join in -n-1 attempting to ftrip its folc proprietor. To prevent this, if poilible, I advifed him to make a proper distribution of fome of his moveables, to two or three of the principal Chiefs j who, being thus gratified themfelvcs, might be induced to take him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries of others. He promifed to follow my advice; and I heard, with fatisfaction, before 1 failed, that this very prudent Hep had been taken. Not trufling, however, entirely to the operations of gratitude, I had recourfe to the more forcible motive of intimidation. With this view, I took every opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, that it was my intention to return to their iiland again, after being abfent the ufual time; and that, if I did not find Omai in the fame State of Security in which I was now to leave him, all thofe whom I mould then dif-cover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel the weight of my refentmcnt. This threatening declaration will, probably, have no inconfidcrable effect. For our fuccef-five vifus of late years have taught thefe people to believe, that our fhips are to return at certain periods; and while they continue to be imprefTed with fuch a notion, which I thought it a fair Stratagem to confirm, Omai has fome profpect of being permitted to thrive upon his new plantation. While we lay in this harbour, we carried afliore the bread, remaining in the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roaches that infeiled the fhip, at this time, is incredible. The damage they* did us was very confiderable ; and every method devifed by us to deflroy them proved ineffectual. Thefe animals, which, at firft, were a 7 nuifancc, nuifance, like all other infects, had now become a real pefl; JJ7J< 1 October. and fo destructive, that few things were free from their ra- >—„-vages. If food of any kind was expofed, only for a few minutes, it was covered with them ; and they foon pi.crced it full of holes, refembling a honeycomb. They were particularly deltrudrive to birds, which had been Huffed and preferved as curiofnies; and, what was worfe, were uncommonly fond of ink ; fo that the writing on the labels, fattened to different articles, was quite eaten out; and the only thing that preferved books from them, w».s the clofenefs of the binding, which prevented thefe devourers getting between the leaves. According to Mr. Andcrfon's obfervations, they were of two forts, the blatta orient alls, and ger~ manica. The flrtt of thefe had been carried home in the fhip from her former voyage, where they withflood the Severity of the hard winter in 1776, though fhe was in dock all the time. The others had only made their appearance Since our leaving New Zealand ; but had increafed fo fait, that they now not only did all the mifchief mentioned above, but had even got amongfl the rigging; fo that when a fail was loofened, thoufands of them fell upon the decks. The orient ales, though in infinite numbers, fcarcely came out but in the night, when they made every thing in the cabins feem as if in motion, from the particular noife in crawling about. And, befides their difagreeable appearance, they did great mifchief to our bread, which was fo befpattcrcd with their excrement, that it would have been badly rclifhed by delicate feeders. The intercourfe of trade, and friendly offices, was carried on, between us and the natives, without being diflurbed by any one accident till the evening of the 23d, when a man Wedoef, 22. found means to get into Mr. Bayly's obfervatory, and to O 2 carry '777- carry ofT a fextant, unobfcrvcd. As foon as I was made ac- October. * v—-v-—' quainted with the theft, I went afhorc, and got Omai to apply to the Chiefs, to procure reftitution. He did fo; but they took no Heps toward it, being more attentive to a beeva, that was then acting, till I ordered the performers of the exhibition to defift. They were now convinced, that I was in earned, and began to make fome enquiry after the thief, who was fining in the midft of them, quite unconcerned, infomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the guilty pcrfon ; efpecially as he denied it. Omai, however, alluring me that lie was the man, I fent him on board the fhip, and there confined him. This raifed a general ferment amongfl the aflembled natives; and the whole body fled, in fpite of all my endeavours to flop them. Having employed Omai to examine the prifoner, with fome difficulty he was brought to confefs where he had hid the fextant; bur, as it Thorrjay23. was now dark, we could not find it till day-light the next morning, when it was brought back unhurt. After this, the natives recovered from their fright, and began to gather about us as ufual. And, as to the thief, he appearing to be a hardened fcoundrel, I punifhed him more feverely than I had ever done any one culprit before. Beiides having his head and beard fhaved, I ordered both his ears to be cut off, and then difmifled him. This, however, did not deter him from giving us farther Saturday 1$, trouble; for, in the night between the 24th and 25th, a general alarm was fpread, occafioned, as was faid, by one of our goats being flolcn by this very man. On examination, we found, that all was fafe in that quarter. Probably, the goats were fo well guarded, that he could not put his defign in execution. But his hoililitics had fucceeded againfl another object; and it appeared, that he had deflroyed and carried carried ofF feveral vines and cabbaee-plants in Omai's 1777- & * Oftober. grounds j and he publicly threatened to kill him, and to *-u— burn his houfe, as foon as we mould leave the ifland. To prevent the fellow's doing me and Omai any more mifchief, I had him feized, and confined again on board the fhip, with a view of carrying him off the ifland ; and it feemed to give general fatisfaction to the Chiefs, that I meant thus to difpofe of him. He was from Bolabola; but there were too many of the natives here ready to affift him in any of his defigns, whenever he ihould think of executing them. I had always met with more troublefome people in Huaheine, than in any other of the neighbouring iflands; and it was only fear, and the want of opportunities, that induced them to behave better now. Anarchy feemed to prevail amongfl them. Their nominal fovereign the Earee rahic> as I have before obferved, was but a chiW ; and I did not find, that there was any one man, or fet of men, who managed the government for him ; fo that, whenever any mifunderftanding happened between us, I never knew, with fuflicient preci-fion, where to make application, in order to bring about an accommodation, or to procure redrefs. The young Chief's mother would, indeed, fometimes exert herfelf; but I did not perceive that fhe had .greater authority than many others. Omai's houfe being nearly finifhed, many of his move--ables were carried afliore on the 26th. Amongfl a variety of Sunday 26. other ulclcfs aiticlcs was a box of toys, which, when ex-pofed to public view, feemed greatly to pleafe the gazing multitude. But, as to his pots, kettles, dimes, plates, drink-ing-mugs, glaffes, and the whole train of our domeftic accomodations, hardly any one of his countrymen would fo much as look at them. Omai himfelf now began to think - that J27« tnat tncT were of no manner of ufe to him ; that a baked October. * \—.%-1 hog was more favory food than a boiled one ; that a plantain-leaf made as good a difh or plate as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut fhell was as convenient a goblet as a black-jack. And, therefore, he very wifely difpofcd of as many of thefe articles of Englifh furniture for the kitchen and pantry, as he could find purchafers for, amongfl the people of the mips; receiving from them, in return, hatchets, and other iron tools, which had a more intrinfic value in this part of the world, and added more to his diftinguifhing fuperiority over thofe with whom he was to pafs the remainder of his days. Tuefday z8. In the long liil of the prefents bellowed upon him in England, fire-works had not been forgot. Some of thefe we exhibited, in the evening of the 28th, before a great concourfe of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleafure and fear. What remained, after the evening's entertainment, were put in order, and left with Omai, agreeably to their oiiginal deflination. Perhaps we need not lament it as a ferious misfortune, that the far greater fhare of this part of his cargo, had been already expended in exhibitions at other iflands, or rendered ufelefs by being kept fo long. tfWifeno;. Between midnight and four in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola man, whom I had in confinement, found means to make his cfcape out of the fhip. He carried with him the fhackle of the bilboo-bolt that was about his leg, which was taken from him, as foon as he got on fhore, by one of the Chiefs, and given to Omai; who came on board, very early in the morning, to acquaint me that his mortal enemy was again let loofe upon him. Upon enquiry, it appeared, that not only the fentry placed over the prifoncr, but the whole watch, upon the quarter deck where he was confined, had laid themfelvcs down to flcep. He feized the opportunity THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 103 nity to take the key of the irons out of the binnacle-drawer, *HJ: J J October. where he had feen it put, and fet himfelf at liberty. This »—*—-' efcapc convinced me, that my people had been very remifs in their night-duty ; which made it neceftary topunifh thofe who were now in fault, and to eflablifh fome new regulations to prevent the like negligence for the future. I was not a little pleafed to hear, afterward, that the fellow who efcaped, had tranfported himfelf to Ulietea; in this, fecond-ing my views of putting him a fccond time in irons. As foon as Omai was fettled in his new habitation, I began to think of leaving the iiland; and got every thing off from the fhore, this evening, except the horfe and mare, and a goat big with kid; which were left in the poffeffion of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. I alfo gave him a boar and two fows of the Englifh breed; and he had got a fow or two of his own. The horfe covered the mare while we were at Otaheite; fo that I confider the introduction of a breed of horfes into thefe iflands, as likely to have fucceeded, by this valuable prefent. The hiflory of Omai will, perhaps, interefl a very numerous clafs of readers, more than any other occurrence of a voyage, the objects of which do not, in general, promife much entertainment. Every circumflance, therefore, which may ferve to convey a Satis factory account of the exact fituation in which he was left, will be thought worth preferving ; and the following particulars arc added, to complete the view of his domeflic eftablifhment. He had picked up at Otaheite four or five Toutous; the two New Zealand youths remained with him; and his brother, and fome others, joined him at Huaheine : fo that his family confided already of eight or ten perfons ; if that can be called a family, to which which not a Tingle female, as yet, belonged; nor, I doubt, was likely to belong, unlefs its matter became lefs volatile. At prefent, Omai did not feem at all difpofed *to take unto himfelf a wife. The houfe which we erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen ; and ten feet high. It was com poled of boards, the fpoils of our military operations at Eimeo; and, in building it, as few nails, as poiliblc, were ufed, that there might be no inducement, from the love of iron, to pull it down. It was fettled, that immediately after our departure, he mould begin to build a large houfe after the fafhion of his country; one end of which was to be brought over that which we had erected, fo as to enclofe it entirely for greater fecurity. In this work, fome of the Chiefs promifed to aflift him; and, if the intended building mould cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as large as mofl upon the iiland. His European weapons confided of a mufker, bayonet, and cartouch-box; a fowling-piece; two pair of pidols; and two or three fwords or cutlalfes. The po He Hi on of thefe made him quite happy ; which was my only view in giving him fuch prefents. For I was always of opinion, that he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European weapons, than with them ; as fuch implements of war, in the hands of one, whole prudent ufe of them I had fome grounds for midruding, would rather encrcafe his dangers than edablilh his fuperiority. After he had got on more every thing that belonged to him, and was fettled in his houfe, he had mod of the officers of both fhips, two or three times, to dinner ; and his table was always well fup-plied with the very bed provifions that the idand produced. Before Before I failed, I had the following infeription cut upon qW* the outfide of his houfe: ^—« Georglus Tertius, Rex, 2 Novemhrh, 1777. KRefolutlon, Jae. Cook, Pr. I Difcovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. On the fecond of November, at four in the afternoon, I November, took the advantage of a breeze, which then fprung up at Sunday 2' Eaft, and failed out of the harbour. Mod of our friends remained on board till the fhips were under fail; when, to gratify their curiofity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then all took their leave, except Omai, who remained till we were at fea. Wc had come to fail by a hawfer faflencd to the fhore. In calling the fhip, it parted, being cut by the rocks, and the outer end was left behind; as thofe who call it off, did not perceive that it was broken ; fo that it became neceflary to fend a boat to bring it on board. In this boat, Omai went afhorc, after taking a very affectionate farcwel of all the officers. He fuflaincd himfelf with a manly refolution, till he came to me. Then his utmoll efforts to conceal his tears failed; and Mr. King, who went in the boat, told me, that he wept all the time in going a fhore, It was no fmall fatisfaction to reflect, that wc had brought him fafc back to the very fpot from which he was taken. And, yet, fuch is the flrange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a lefs dcfirablc fituation, than he was in before his connexion with us. I do nor, by this, mean, that, becaufc he has tafled the fwcets of civilized life, he mull become more mifcrable from being obliged to abandon all thoughts of continuing them. I confine myfelf totliis finglc difdgiccablc circumflancc, that the advantages Vol. II. ' P he \c6 AVOYAGETO l7??i he received from us, have placed him in a more hazardous November* < —. m fituation, with refpect to his pcrfonal fafety. Omai, from being much careffed in England, loft fight of his original condition j and never coniidercd in what manner his ac-quifitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be cfti-matcd by his countrymen, at his return ; which were the only things he could have to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could build either his future greatnefs or happinefs. He feemed even to have miftaken their genius in this reflect; and, in fome meafure, to have forgotten their cuftoms; otherwife he muft have known the extreme difficulty there would be in getting himfelf admitted as a perfon of rank, where there is, perhaps, no inftance of a man's being raifed from an inferior ilation by the greateft merit. Rank feems to be the very 'foundation of all diftinction here, and, of its attendant, power; and fo pertinacioufly, or rather blindly adhered to, that, unlcfs a perfon has fome degree of it, he will certainly be defpifed and hated, if he affumes the appearance of exercifing any authority. This was really the cafe, in fome meafure, with Omai; though his countrymen were pretty cautious of exprefling their fentiments while we remained amongfl: them. Had he made a proper ufe of the prefents he brought with him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by travelling fo far, might have enabled him to form the mofl ufeful connections. But we have given too many inflances, in the courfe of our narrative, of his childifh inattention to this obvious means of advancing his intcrefl. His fchemcs, feemed to be of a higher, though ridiculous nature ; indeed, I might fay, meaner; for revenge, rather than a defire of becoming great, appeared to actuate him from the beginning. beginning. This, however, may be excufed, if we confider that !"77- it is common to his countrymen. Mis father was, doubtlefs, a man of confiderable property in Ulietea, when that ifland was conquered by thofe of Bolabola ; and, with many others, fought refuge in Huaheine, where he died, and left Omai, with fome other children; who, by that means, became totally dependent. In this fituation he was taken up by Captain Furneaux, and carried to England. Whether he really expected, from his treatment there, that any affift-ance would be given him againft the enemies of his father and his country j or whether he imagined that his own per-fonal courage, and fupcriority of knowledge, would be fuf-ficient to difpoflefs the conquerors of Ulietea, is uncertain; but from the beginning of the voyage, this was his con-ftant theme. He would not liflen to our remonflrances on fo wild a determination; but flew into a pafTion, if more moderate and reafonable counfels were propofed for his advantage. Nay, fo infatuated and attached to his favourite fcheme was he, that he affected to believe thefe people would certainly quit the conquered ifland, as foon as they mould hear of his arrival in Otaheite. As we advanced, however, on our voyage, he became more fenfible of his error; and, by the time we reached the Friendly Iflands, had even fuch apprehenfions of his reception at home, that, as I have mentioned in my journal, he would fain haveflaid behind at Tongataboo, under Feenou's protection. At thefe iflands, he fquandcrcd away much of his European treafure very unnecelTarily and he was equally imprudent, as I alfo took notice of above, at Tiaraboo, where he could have no view of making friends, as he had not any intention of remaining there. At Matavai, he continued the fame incon-fiderate behaviour, till I abfolutely put a flop to his profu- P 2 fion; fion ; and he formed fuch improper connections there, that Otoo, who was, at firfl, much difpofed to countenance him, afterward openly exprefTed his diilikc of him, on account of his conduci:. It was not, however, too late to recover his favour ; and he might have fettled, to great advantage, in Otaheite, as he had formerly lived feveral years there, and was now a good deal noticed by Towha, whole valuable prefent, of a very large double canoe, we have feen above. The objection to admitting him to fome rani: would have alfo been much leffened, if he had fixed at Otaheite; as a native will always find it more difficult to accomplifh fuch a change of flate amongfl his countrymen, than a flranger, who naturally claims refpect. But Omai remained undetermined to the laft, and would not, I believe, have adopted my plan of fettlemcnt in Huaheine, if I had not fo explicitly refufed to employ force in refloring him to his father's polfeflions. Whether the remains of his European wealth, which, after all his improvident wafle, was flill confiderable, will be more prudently adminiflered by him, or whether the fleps I took, as already explained, to infurc him protection in Huaheine, fhall have proved effectual, mufl be left to the decifion of future navigators of this Ocean ; with whom it cannot but be a principal object of curiofity to trace the future fortunes of our traveller. At prefent, I can only conjecture, that his greatefl danger will arife from the very impolitic declarations of his antipathy to the inhabitants of Bolabola. For thefe people, from a principle of jealoufy, will, no doubt, endeavour to render him obnoxious to thofe of Huaheine; as they are at peace with that ifland at prefent, and may eafily effect their defigns, many of them living there. This is a circumflance, which, of all others, he might, the mofl cafily, have avoided. F'or they were not s only only free from any avcrfion to him, but the perfon, men- „ 1777: ' 3 71 November. tioned before, whom we found at Tiaraboo as an ambaf- «--v-—* fador, pried, or God, abfolutely offered to rcindate him in the property that was formerly his father's. But he refilled this peremptorily; and, to the very lad, continued determined to take the fir ft opportunity that offered of fatisfying his revenge in battle. To this, I guefs, he is not a little fpur-red by the coat of mail he brought from England ; clothed in which, and in pofleflion of fome fire-arms, he fancies that he mall be invincible. Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were more than overbalanced by his great good nature and do-file difpofition. During the whole time he was with me, I very fcldom had reafon to be ferioudy difplcafed with his general conduct. His grateful heart always retained the highed fenfe of the favours he had received in England; nor will he ever forget thofe who honoured him with their protection and friendfhip, during his day there. He had a tolerable fhare of undcrdanding, but wanted application and pcrfeverance to exert it; fo that his knowledge of things was very general, and, in many indances, imperfect. He was not a man of much observation. There wrcrc many ufeful arts, as well as elegant amufemcnts, amongd the people of the Friendly lilands, which he might have conveyed to his own; where they probably would have been readily adopted, as being fo much in their own way. But I never found that he ufed the lead endeavour to make himfelf madcr of any one. This kind of indifference is, indeed, the characteridic foible of his nation. Europeans have vifited them, at times, for thefe ten years pad; yet We could not difcovcr the flighted trace of any attempt to profit by this intercourfe; nor have they hitherto copied after 1777. November. after 113 in any one thing. We are not, therefore, to expect that Omai will be able to introduce many of our arts and cufloms amongfl: them, or much improve thofe to which they have been long habituated. I am confident, however, that he will endeavour to bring to perfection the various fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no fmall acquifition. But the greater! benefit thefe iflands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be in the animals that have been left upon them; which, probably, they never would have got, had he not come to England- When thefe multiply, of which I think there is little doubt, Otaheite, and the Society Iflands, will equal, if not exceed, any place in the known world, for provifions. Omai's return, and the fubflantial proofs he brought back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer them-fclves as volunteers to attend me to Pvetane. I took every opportunity of expreffing my determination to reject all fuch applications. But, notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, being afraid left I might be prevailed upon to put others in a fituation of rivalling him, frequently put me in mind, that Lord Sandwich had told him, no others of his countrymen were to come to England. If there had been the moft diftant probability of any fhip being again fent to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youths of that country home with me ; as both of them were very defirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eldeft, was an exceedingly well difpofed young man, with flrong natural fenfe, and capable of receiving any in-ftruction. He feemed to be fully fenfible of the inferiority .of his own country to thefe iflands, and refigncd himfelf, 6 though though perhaps with reluctance, to end his days, in cafe NoTv7e^,;^ and plenty, in Huaheine. But the other was fo ftrongly at- v.—i—• tached to us, that he was taken out of the fhip, and carried afhore by force. He was a witty, fmart boy ; and, on that K account, much noticed on board. CHAP. C H A P. VIE Arrival at Ulietea.—Agronomical Obfervations.—A Marine defer is, and is delivered up.—Intelligence from Omai. —InflruSiions to Captain Clerke.—Another Dcjertion of a Midlhiptnan and a Seaman.—Three of the chief Perfons of the If and confined on that Account.—A Defign to feize Captains Cook and Clerke, difcovered. — The two Deferters brought back, a?id the Pr if oners releafed.—The Ships fail.—Refrefhments received at Ulietea,— Prefent and former State of that Ifiand.—Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of Huaheine. ♦777- rpHE boat which carried Omai afhorc, never to join us November. « ... i i n ■ • i ^\ • again, having returned to the imp, with the remainder of the hawfer, we hoiflcd her in, and immediately flood over for Ulietea, where I intended to touch next. At ten o'clock at night, wc brought to, till four the next morning when we made fail round the South end of the ifland, for the harbour of Ohamancno*. • We met with calms and light airs of wind, from different directions, by turns ; fo that, at noon, we were ftill a league from the entrance of the harbour. While wc were thus detained, my old friend Oreo, Chief of the iiland, with his fon, and Pootoc, his fon-in-law, come off to vifit us. * Sec a plan of this harbour, in Hawkcfwoith's Coilc&ion, Vol. ii. p. 248. Being THE PACIFIC OCEAN. t!j Being rcfolved to pufh for the harbour, I ordered all the *7ty- ° 1 November. boats to be hoiflcd out, and fenr them a-head to tow, being *-;--* aflilled by a flight breeze from the Southward. This breeze failed too foon, and being fucceeded by one from the Eafl, which blew right out of the harbour, wc were obliged to come to an anchor, at its entrance, at two o'clock, and to warp in, which employed us till night fet in. As foon as we were within the harbour, the fhips were furrounded with canoes filled with people, who brought hogs and fruit to barter with us for our commodities; fo that, wherever we went, wc found plenty. Next morning, being the 4th, I moored the fhip, head Tuefday*. and flern, clofe to the North more, at the head of the harbour ; hauled up the cables on deck; and opened one of the ballad-ports. From this a flight flage was made to the land, being at the diflance of about twenty feet, with a view to get clear of fome of the rats that continued to infefl us. The Difcovery moored along-fide the South fhore for the fame purpofe. While this work was going forward, 1 re- * fc turned Oreo's vifit. The prefent I made him, on the occafion, confided of a linen gown, a fhirt, a red-feathered cap from Tongataboo, and other things of lefs value. I then brought him, and fome of his friends, on board to dinner. On the 6th, we fet up the ohfervatorics, and gor the neccf- ThurALiy 6. fary indruments on fhore. The two following days, we obferved the fun's azimuths, both on board and afliore, with all the cornpaffes, in order to find the variation ; and in the night of the latter, obferved an occultation of g Caprkor.i:, by the moon's dark limb. Mr. Bayly and I agreed in fixing the time of its happening, at fix minutes and fifty-four fe-conds and a half, pad ten o'clock. Mr. King made it half a fecond fooner, Mr. Bayly obferved with the achromatic tele- Vol. II. feope November *'c0Pe belonging to the Board of Longitude; Mr. King, with 1-*-' the reflector belonging alfo to the Board; and I made ufe of my own reflector, of eighteen inches. There was alfo an immerfion of Capricomi behind the moon's dark limb, fome time before ; but it was obferved by Mr. Bayly alone. 1 attempted to trace it, with a fmall achromatic ; but found its magnifying power not fufficicnt. Nothing worthy of note happened, till the night between Wednef. 12. the 12th and 13th, when John Harrifon, a marine, who was Thurfdayi3. femjnci at t]lc obfervatory, defertcd ; carrying with him his mufquet and accoutrements. Having in the morning got intelligence which way he had moved off", a party was fent after him ; but they returned in the evening, after an inef-iTkiay i4. fectual enquiry and fcarch. The next day, I applied to the Chief to intcreft himfelf in this matter. He promifed to fend a party of his men after him, and gave me hopes that he fhould be brought back the fame day. But this did not happen; and I had rcafon to fufpecf, that no flcps had been taken by him. We had, at this time, a great number of the natives about the mips, and fome thefts were committed; the confequence of which being dreaded by them, very few Saturday 15. vifitcrs came near us the next morning. The Chief himfelf joined in the alarm, and he and his whole family fled. I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to deliver up the defcrter; and having got intelligence that he was at a place called Hamoa, on the other fide of the iiland, I went thither with two armed boats, accompanied by one of the natives; and, in our way, we found the Chief, who alfo embarked with me. I landed about a mile and a half from the place, with a few people, and marched brifkly up to it, left the fight of the boats fhould give the alarm, and allow the man time to efcape to the mountains. But this precaution tion was unnecefTary; for the natives there had got in- , xrn- J c November. formation of my coming, and were prepared to deliver v_—,— him up. I found Harrifon, with the mufquct lying before him, fitting between two women, who, the moment that I entered the houfe, rofe up to plead in his behalf. As it was highly proper to difcourage fuch proceedings, I frowned upon them, and bid them begone. Upon this they burft into tears, and walked off. Paha, the Chief of the diftrict, now came with a plantain tree, and a fucking pig, which he would have prefented to me, as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of my fight; and having embarked, with the deferter, on board the firft boat that arrived, returned to the fhips. After this, harmony was again reftored. The fellow had nothing to fay in his defence, but that the natives had enticed him away ; and this might in part be true, as it was certain, that Paha, and alfo the two women above-mentioned, had been at the fh.ip the day before he defcrted. As it appeared, that he had remained upon his poll, till within a few minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved, the puniflmient that I inflicted upon frim was not very fevere. Though we had feparated from Omai, we were flill near enough to have intelligence of his proceedings; and I had defired to hear from him. Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea, he fent two of his people in a canoe ; who brought me the fatisfatfory intelligence, that he remained undiflurbed by the people of the iiland, and that every thing went well with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. He accompanied this intelligence, with a rcquelt, that I would fend him another goat, and Qj* . two n6 AVOYAGETO 1777* two axes. Beinc? happy to have this additional opportunity November. ° 1 1 J rr J \—-^—' of ferving him, the meflengers were fent back to Huaheine, Tuefdayis. on the 18tli, with the axes, and two kids, male and female,, which were fpared for him out of the Difcoycry. Wednef. 19. The next day, I delivered to Captain Clerke inftructions how to proceed, in cafe of being feparated from me, after leaving thefe iflands; and it may not be improper to give them a place here. By Captain James Cook, Commander of his Majefys Sloop the Refohttion. ' " WHEREAS the paffage from the Society Iflands, to the Northern coafl of America, is of confiderable length, both in diflance and in time, and as a part of it mufl be performed in the very depth of winter, when gales of wind and bad weather mufl be expected, and may, poflibly, occafion a fcparation, you are to take all imaginable care to prevent this. But if, notwithflanding all our endeavours to keep company, you mould be feparated from me, you arc firft to look for mc where you lafi faw me. Not feeing me in five days, you arc to proceed (as directed by the inftructions of their Lordfhips, a copy of which you have already received) for the coaft of New Albion ; endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude of 45°. In that latitude, and at a convenient diflance from the land, you are to cruize for me ten days. Not feeing me in that time, you are to put into the firfl convenient port, in or to the North of that latitude, to recruit your wood and water, and to procure refrefhments. During your flay in port, you are conftantly to keep a - good look-out for me. It will be neceffary, therefore, to make make choice of a nation, fituatcd as near the fca-coart as is XT • Novemb poflible, the better to enable you to fee me, when I mall--— appear in the offing. If I do not join you before the id of next April, you are to put to fea, and proceed Northward to the latitude 560; in which latitude, and at a convenient diftance from the coaft, never exceeding fifteen leagues, you arc to cruize for me till the 10th of May. Not feeing me in that time, you are to proceed Northward, and endeavour to find a paffage into the Atlantic Ocean, through Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the above-mentioned inftructions. But if you fhould fail in finding a paffage through either of the faid bays, or by any other way, as the feafon of the year may render it unfafe for you to remain in high latitudes, you are to repair to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka, in order to refrefh your people, and to pafs the winter. But, nevcrthelefs, if you find, that you cannot procure the neceffary refrefhments at the faid port, you are at liberty to go where you fhall judge mofl proper; taking care, before you depart, to leave with the Governor an account of your intended dcflinarion, to be delivered to me upon my arrival: And in the fpring of the enfuing year, 1779, you are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, endeavouring to be there by the 10th of May, or fooner. If, on your arrival, you receive no orders from, or account of me, fo as to juftify yourpurfuing any other meafures than what are pointed out in the before mentioned inflructions, your future proceedings are to be governed by them. You '777- You arc alio to comply with fuch parts of faid inflruc- Novcniber. 1 J 1 »—y-' tions, as have not been executed, and are not contrary to thefe orders. And in cafe of your inability, by ficknefs or othervvife, to carry thefe, and the inftructions of their Lord-fhips, into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the bell manner he can. Given under my hand, on board the Rcfolution, at Ulietea, the iSth Day of November 1777. J. C O O K." " To Captain Charles Clerke, Commander of his Majefys Sloop, the Difcovery" While we lay moored to the fhore, wc heeled, and fcrub-bed both fides of the bottoms of the fhips. At the fame time, wc fixed fome tin-plates under the binds; firfl taking off the old fheathing, and putting in a piece unfilled, over which the plates were nailed. Thefe plates I had from the ingenious Mr. Pclham, Secretary to the Commiflioncrs for Victualling his Majefty's Navy; with a view of trying whether tin would anfwer the fame end as copper, on the bottoms of mips. Monday 24, On the 24th in the morning, I was informed that a mid-fhipman, and a feaman, both belonging to the Difcovery, were milling. Soon after, we learnt from the natives, that they went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and were, at this time, at the other end of the ifland. As the midfhipman was known to have expreffed a defire to remain at thefe iflands, it feemed pretty certain, that he and his companion had gone off with this intention; and Captain Gierke fet out in quefl of them with two armed boats, and a party of marines. His expedition proved fruitlcfs ; for he 6 returned returned in the evening, without having got any certain ^JJ^ intelligence where they were. From the conduct: of the na- v—%—-» tives, Captain Clerke feemed to think, that they intended to conceal the deferters; and, with that view, had amufed him with falfe information the whole day, and directed him to fearch for them in places where they were not to be found. The Captain judged right; for, the next morning, we were told, that our runaways were at Otaha. As thefe two were not the only perfons in the mips who wifh-cd to end their days at thefe favourite iflands, in order to put a flop to any further defertion, it was neceflary to get them back at all events ; and that the natives might be convinced that I was in earnefl, I refolvcd to go after them myfelf; having obferved, from repeated inflances, that they feldom offered to deceive me with falfe information. Accordingly, I fet out, the next morning, with two arm- Tuefday 2> ed boats; being accompanied by the Chief himfelf. I proceeded, as he directed, without flopping any where, till wc came to the middle of the Eafl fide of Otaha. There wc put afhore ; and Oreo difpatched a man before us, with orders to feizc the deferters, and keep them till we mould arrive with the boats. But when we got to the place where we expected to find them, we were told, that they had quitted this ifland, and gone over to Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow them thither; but returned to the fhips ; fully determined, however, to have recourfe to a meafure, which, 1 guelfed, would oblige the..' natives to bring them back. 1777* November. In the night, Mr. Bayly, Mr. King, and myfelf, obferved an immerfion of Jupiter's third fatellite. It happened, by the obfei vation of Wednef. 26. Mr. Bayly, at 2* 37- 54M Mr. King, at 2 37 24 j. in the morning. Myfelf, at 2 37 - 44 j Mr. Bayly and Mr. King obferved, with Dollond's three and a half feet achromatic telefcope, and with the greater!; magnifying power. I obferved, with a two-feet Gregorian reflector, made by Bird. Soon after day-break, the Chief, his fon, daughter, and fon-in-law, came on board the Refolution. The three laft I refolved to detain, till the two deferters mould be brought back. With this view, Captain Clerke invited them to go on board his fhip; and as foon as they arrived there, confined them in his cabin. The Chief was with mc when the news reached him. He immediately acquainted me with it, fuppofing that this flep had been taken without my knowledge, and consequently without my approbation. I in-flantly undeceived him ; and then he began to have appre-henfions as to his own fituation, and his looks exprefled the utmoft perturbation of mind. But I foon made him cafy as to this, by telling him, that he was at liberty to leave the fhip whenever he pleafed, and to take fuch meafures as he mould judge bell calculated to get our two men back; that, if he fuccccded, his friends on board the Difeovery mould be delivered up; if not, that I was determined to carry them away with me. 1 added, that his own conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in not only ailifting thefe two 7 men •'the pacific ocean. 121 men to efcape, but in being, even at this very time, afli- , •I"77- j ... . Novcmb duous in enticing others to follow them, would juflify any 1-y— flep i could take to put a flop to fuch proceedings. This explanation of the motives upon which i acted, and which we found means to make Oreo and his people, who were prefent, fully comprehend, feemed to recover them, in a great meafure, from that general conflernation into which they were at firfl thrown. But, if relieved from ap-prehenfions about their own rarefy, they continued under the deepeft concern for thofe who were prifoncrs. Many of them went under the Difcovery's flern in canoes, to be* wail their captivity, which they did with long and loud exclamations. Pocdooa! for fo the Chief's daughter was called, rcfounded from every quarter; and the women feemed to vie with each other in mourning her fate, with more fignificant cxprcflions of their grief than tears and cries ; for there were many bloody heads upon the occafion. Oreo himfelf did not give way to unavailing lamentations, but, inflantly, began his exertions to recover our deferters, by difpatching a canoe to Bolabola, with a meffage to Opoony, the fovereign of that ifland, acquainting him with what had happened, and requeuing him to fcize the two fugitives, and fend them back. The meffengcr, who was no lefs a man than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's fon-in-law, before he fet out, came to receive my commands. i flrict-ly enjoined him not to return without the deferters ; and to tell Opoony, from me, that, if they had left Bolabola, he mufl fend canoes to bring them back; for i fufpedled that they would not long remain in one place. Vol. ii. R The The confequence, however, of the prifoners was fo great, that the natives did not think proper to trull to the return of our people for their releafe j or, at leafl, their impatience was fo great, that it hurried them to meditate an attempt which might have involved them in flill greater diftrefs, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between five and fix o'clock in the evening, I obferved that all their canoes, in and about the harbour, began to move off, as if fome fudden panic had feized them. I was afliore, abreafl of the fhip, at the time, and enquired, in vain, to find out the caufe; till our people called to us from the Difcovery, and told us, that a party of the natives had feized Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the fhips. Struck with the boldnefs of this plan of retaliation, which feemed to counteract me fo effectually in my own way, there was no time to deliberate. I indantly ordered the people to arm; and, in lefs than five minutes, a flrong party, under the command of Mr. King, was fent to refcue our two gentlemen. At the fame time, two armed boats, and a party under Mr. Williamfon, went after the flying canoes, to cut off their retreat to the fhore. Thefe fevcral detachments were hardly out of fight, before an account arrived that we had been mifinformed ; upon which I fent, and called them all in. It was evident, however, from feveral corroborating cir-cumilances, that the defign of feizing Captain Clerke had really been in agitation amongft the natives. Nay, they made no fecretin fpcakingof it the next day. But their firfl and great plan of operations was to have laid hold of me. It was my cullom, every evening, to bathe in the frefh water. Very often I went alone; and always without arms. Ex-j pecting peeling me to go, as ufual, this evening, they had deter- N ,J7 mined to feize me, and Captain Clerke too, if he had ac- 1-- ■companied me. But I had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myfelf in their power; and had cautioned Captain Clerke, and the officers, not to go far from the fhips, In the courfe of the afternoon, the Chief afked me, three feveral times, if I would not go to the bathing-place; and when he found, at lad, that I could not be prevailed upon, he went off, with the reft of his people, in fpite of all that I could do or fay to flop him. But as I had no fufpicion, at this time, of their defign, I imagined that fome fudden fright had feized them, which wTould, as ufual, foon be over. Finding themfclves difap-pointed as to me, they fixed on thofe who were more in their power. It was fortunate, for all parties, that they did not fucceed; and not lefs fortunate, that no mifchief was done on the occafion. For not a mufquet was fired, except two or three, to flop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, Mcffrs. Clerke and Gore owed their fafety * ; for, at that very inftant, a party of the natives, armed with clubs, were advancing toward them; and on hearing the report of the mufquets, they difperfed. This confpiracy, as it may be called, was firfl difcovered by a girl, whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. She, overhearing fome of the Ulieteans fay, that they would feize Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, ran to acquaint the firfl of our people that fhe met with. Thofe who were charged with the execution of the defign threat- * Perhaps they owed their fafety, principally, to Captain Clerke's walking with a piftol in his hand, which he once fired. This circumftance is omitted both in Captain Cook's and in Mr. Anderfon's journal; but it is here mentioned on the authority of Captain King. R 2 encd '777- ened to kill her, as foon as we fhould leave the iiland, for November. i-1-' difappointing them. Iking aware of this, we contrived that her friends mould come, fome days after, and take her out of the fhip, to convey her to a place of fafety, where fhe might lie concealed, till they mould have an opportunity of fending her back to Huaheine. Thmrjay27. On the 27th, our obfervatories were taken down, and every thing we had afhorc carried on board ; the moorings of the fhips were call off; and we tranfported them a little way down the harbour, where they came to an anchor again. Toward the afternoon, the natives began to make off their fears, gathering round, and on board, the fhips, as ufual; and the awkward tranfacfion of the day before feemed to be forgotten on both fides. Friday 28. The following night, the wind blew in hard fqualls from South to Eafl, attended with heavy mowers of rain. In one of the fqualls, the cable, by which the Refolution was riding, parted, juft without the hawfe. We had another anchor ready to let go; fo that the fhip was, prefent-ly, brought up again. In the afternoon, the wind became moderate ; and we hooked the end of the belt fmall bower cable, and got it again into the hawfe. Oreo, the Chief, being uneafy, as well as myfelf, that no account had been received from Bolabola, fet out, this evening, for that ifland, and dcfired me to follow down, the next day, with the mips. This was my intention ; but the wind would not admit of our getting to fea. But the fame wind which kept us in the harbour, brought Oreo back from Bclabola, with the two deferters.. They had reached Otaha, the fame night they deferted ; but, finding it impoffible to get to any of the iflands to the I alb-1 ward THE PACIFIC' OCEAN. 125 ward (which was their intention), for want of wind, they XT 1777-had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the fmall —,—it ifland Toobaee, where they were taken by the father of Pootoe, in confequence of the firfl mcflage fent to Opoony. As foon as they were on board, the three prifoners were re-leafed. Thus ended an affair, which had given me much trouble and vexation. Nor would I have exerted myfelf fo refolutely on the occafion, but for the reafon before mentioned, and to fave the fon of a brother officer from being lofl to his country. The wind continued conflantly between the North and De.ember. Well, and confined us in the harbour, till eight o clock in Suntlay7-morning of the 7th of December'; when we took the advantage of a light breeze which then fprung up at North Eafl, and, with the afliflance of all the boats, got out to fea with the Difcovery in company. During the lafl week, we had been vifited by people from all parts of the ifland, who furnifhed us with a large flock of hogs and green plantains. So that the time we lay wind-bound in the harbour was not entirely lofl; green plantains being an excellent fubflitute for bread, as they will keep good a fortnight, or three weeks. Befides this fupply of provifions, we alfo completed our wood and water. The inhabitants of Ulietea feemed, in general, fmaller and blacker than thofe of the other neighbouring iflands ; and appeared alfo lefs orderly, which, perhaps, may be con-fidcred as the confequence of their having become fubject to the natives of Bolabola. Oreo, their Chief, is only a fort of deputy of the fovereign of that ifland; and the conquell feems to have leffened the number of fubordinate Chiefs rcfident among them ; fo that they are lefs immediately under '777- under the infpeetion of thofe whofe intereft it is to enforce December. r s—^-' due obedience to authority. Ulietea, though now reduced to this humiliating ftate, was formerly, as we were told, the mod eminent of this clufter of iflands; and, probably, the fir ft feat of government; for they fay, that the prefent royal family of Otaheite is defcended from that which reigned here, before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch of Ulietea, was ftill alive, when we were at Huaheine, where he refides, a royal wanderer, furniih-ing, in his perfon, an inftance of the inftability of power; but, what is more remarkable, of the refpecf paid by thefe people to particular families, and to the cuftoms which have once conferred fovereignty; for they fuffer Ooroo to prc-ferve all the enfigns which they appropriate to majefty, though he has loft his dominions. We faw a fimilar inftance of this while we were at Ulietea. One of the occafional vifiters I now had, was my old friend Oree, the late Chief of Huaheine. He ftill preferved his confequence ; came always at the head of a numerous body of attendants; and was always provided with fuch prefents as were very acceptable. This Chief looked much better now than I had ever feen him, during either of my former voyages*. I could account for his improving in health as he grew older, only from his drinking lefs copioufly of the ava in his prefent ftation as a private gentleman, than he had been accuftomcd to do when he was regent. * Captain Cook had fecn Oree in 1769,'when he commanded the Endeavour j alfo twice, during his fecond voyage, in 1772. CHAP. CHAP. VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. — Interview with Opoony.—Reafons fot~ pur chafing Monfieur de Bougainville's Anchor.—Departure from the Society Iflands.—Particulars about Bolabola —Hifiory cf the Conquefl of Otaha and Ulietea. —High Reputation of the Bolabola Men.—Animals left there, and at Ulietea.—Plentiful Supply of Provifions, and Maimer of fait ing Pork on board.-—Various Reflections relative to Otaheite, and the Society Iflands. — Aflronomical and nautical Obfervations made' there* A S foon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took *7?7> tw 1 n -lii December*. our leave of Ulietea, and fleered for Bolabola. The u—*>—» chief if not fole object I had in view, by vifiting that iiland, was, to procure from its monarch, Opoony, one of the anchors which Monfieur de Bougainville had loft at Otaheite. This having afterward been taken up by the natives there, had, as they informed me, been fent by them as a prefent to that Chief. My defire to get poffcilion of it did not arife from our being in want of anchors. But having expended all the hatchets, and other iron tools, which wc had brought from England, in purchafing refrefhments, we were now reduced to the ncceility of creating a frefli a/fortmcnt of trading articles, by fabricating them out of the fparc iron. we we had on board j and, in fuch converfions, and In the oc-cafional ufes of the (hips, great part of that had been already expended. I thought that Mr. de Bougainville's anchor would fupply our want of this ufeful material; and I made no doubt that I iliould be able to tempt Opoony to part with it. Oreo, and fix or eight men more from Ulietea, took a paffage with us to Bolabola. Indeed, mofl of the natives in general, except the Chief himfelf, would have gladly taken a paffage with us to England. At funfet, being the length of the South point of Bolabola, we fhortened fail, and fpent the night making fhort boards. At day-break, on the 8th, we made fail for the harbour, which is on the Weft fide of the iiland. The wind was fcant, fo that we had to ply up, and it was nine o'clock before we got near enough to fend away a boat to found the entrance. For I had thoughts of running the fhips in, and anchoring for a day or two. When the boat returned, the Mailer, who was in her, reported, that though, at the entrance of the harbour the bottom was rocky, there was good ground within, and the depth of water twenty-feven and twenty-five fathoms; and that there was room to turn the fhips in, the channel being one third of a mile broad. In confequence of this report, we attempted to work the fhips in. But the tide, as well as the wind, being againft us, after making two or three trips, I found that it could not be done, till the tide mould turn in our favour. Upon this, I gave up the defign of carrying the fhips into the harbour j and having ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarked in one of them, accompanied by Oreo and his companions j and was rowed in for the iiland. We Wc landed where the natives directed us; and, foon after, ^ I777- ' December. I was introduced to Opoony, in the midft of a great con- v-——' courfe of people. Having no time to lofe, as foon as the neceffary formality of compliments was over, I afked the Chief to give me the anchor, and produced the prefent I had prepared for him, confining of a linen night-gown, a fhirt, fome gauze handkerchiefs, a looking-glafs, fome beads, and other toys ; and fix axes. At the fight of thefe laft, there was a general outcry. I could only gnefs the caufe, by Opoony Y abfolutely rcfufing to receive my prefent till I fhould get the anchor. He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me ; and, as I underftood, I was to fend, by them, what I thought proper in return. With thefe meffengcrs, we fet out in our boats for an ifland, lying at the North fide of the entrance into the harbour, where the anchor had been depofited. I found it to be neither fo large, nor fo perfect, as I expected. It had originally weighed feven hundred pounds, according to the mark that was upon it; but the ring, with part of the fliank, and the two palms, were now wanting. I was no longer at a lofs to guefs the reafon of Opoony's rcfufing my prefent. He, doubtlefs, thought that it fo much exceeded the value of the anchor in its prefent ftate, that I fhould be difpleafed when I faw it. Be this as it may, I took the anchor as I found it, and fent him every article of the prefent that I at fnft intended. Having thus completed my negociation, I returned on board ; and having hoifted in the boats, made fail from the ifland to the North. While the boats were hoifling in, fome of the natives came off, in three or four canoes, to fee the fhips, as they faid. They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts, and one pig, which was the only one we got at the iiland. I make Vol. II. S , no no doubt, however, that, if we had flayed till the next day, we fhould have been plentifully fupplied with provifions; and, I think, the natives would feel themfelves difap-pointed, when they found that we were gone. But, as we had already a very good flock both of hogs and of fruit on board, and very little of any thing left to purchafe more, I could have no inducement to defer, any longer, the profe-cution of our voyage. The harbour of Bolabola, called Oteavanooa, fituated on the Weft fide of the ifland, is one of the moft capacious that I ever met with ; and though we did not enter it, it was a fatisfaction to me, that I had an opportunity of employing my people to afcertain its being a very proper place for the reception of fhips*. The high double-peaked mountain, which is in the middle of the ifland, appeared to be barren on the Eaft fide; but, on the Weft fide, has trees or buflies on its moft craggy parts. The lower grounds, all round, toward the fea, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees, like the other iflands of this ocean; and the many little iflots that furround it on the infide of the reef, add both to the amount of its vegetable produetions, and to the number of its inhabitants. But, ftill, when we confider its very fmall extent, being not more than eight leagues in compafs, it is rather remarkable, that its people mould have attempted, or have been able to atchieve the conqueft of Ulietea and Otaha, the former of which iflands is, of itfclf, at leaft double its fize. m each of my three voyages, we had heard much of the * See a chart of the ifland of Bolabola, in Hawkefwortb's Collection, Vol. ii. p. 249. Though wc have no particular drawing of the harbour, its fituation is there diftincliy i^orefented. war war that produced this great revolution. The remit of our inquiries, as to the circumftances attending it, may amufe the reader; and I give it as a fpecimen of the hiftory of our friends, in this part of the world, as related to us* by themfelvcs. Ulietea and Otaha, which adjoins it, lived long in friendfhip, or, as the natives exprefs it, were confidered as two brothers, inseparable by any interefled views. They alfo admitted the ifland of Huaheine as their friend, though not fo intimate. Otaha, however, like a traitor, leagued with Bolabola, and they refolved jointly to attack Ulietea; whofe people called in their friends of Huaheine, to aflift them againft thefe two powers. The men of Bolabola were encouraged by a prieftefs, or rather prophetefs, who foretold, that they mould be fuccefsful; and, as a proof of the certainty of her prediction, fhe defired, that a man might be fent to the fea, at a particular place, where, from a great depth, a ftone would afcend. He went, accordingly, in a canoe to the place mentioned; and was going to dive to fee where this ftone lay, when, behold, it ftarted up to the furface fpontane-oufly into his hand! The people were aftonifhed at the fight; the ftone was depofited as facred in the houfe of the Eatooa; and is ftill preferved at Bolabola, as a proof of this woman's influence with the divinity. Their fpirits being thus elevated with the hopes of victory, the canoes of Bolabola fet out to engage thofe of Ulietea and Huaheine, which being ftrongly fattened together with ropes, the encounter lafted long, and would probably, notwithftanding the prediction and the miracle, have ended in the overthrow of the Bolabola fleet, if that of Otaha had not, in the critical mo- • For this,' as for many other particulars about thefe people, we are indebted to Mr. Anderfon. S 2 ment, ment, arrived. This turned the fortune of the day, and their enemies were defeated with great Daughter. The men of Bolabola, profecuting their victory, invaded Huaheine two days after, which they knew rnufl be weakly defended, as moil of its warriors were abfent. Accordingly, they made themfelvcs matters of that ifland. But many of its fugitives having got to Otaheite, there told their lamentable ftory; which fo grieved thofe of their countrymen, and of Ulietea, whom they met with in that iiland, that they obtained fome afliftance from them. They were equipped with only ten fighting canoes; but, though their force was fo in confiderable, they conducted the expedition with fo much prudence, that they landed at Huaheine at night, when dark, and falling upon the Bolabola men by furprize, kilted many of them, forcing the refl to fly. So that, by this means, they got poffeflton of their ifland again, which now remains independent, under the government of its own Chiefs. Immediately after the defeat of the united fleets of Ulietea and Huaheine, a propofal was made to the Bolabola men by their allies of Otaha, to be admitted to an equal fhare of the conquefls. Therefufal of this broke the alliance ; and in the courfe of the war, Otaha itfelf, as well as Ulietea, was conquered; and both now remain fubject to Bolabola; the Chiefs who govern them, being only deputies of Opoony, the fovereign of that ifland. In the reduction of the two iflands, five battles were fought, at different places, in which great numbers were flain on both fulcs. Such was the account we received. I have more than once remarked, how very imperfectly thefe people recollect the exact dates of pafl events. And with regard to this war, though it happened not many years ago, we could only guefs guefs at the time of its commencement and its conclufion, from collateral circumftances, furnifhcd by our own obfer-vation,as the natives could not iatisfy our inquiries with any precifion. The final conquer!: of Ulietea, which clofed the war, we know, had been made before I was there in the Endeavour, in 1769 ; but we may infer, that peace had not been very long reftorcd, as wc could then fee marks of recent hoftilities* having been committed upon that iiland. Some additional light may be thrown upon this inquiry, by attending to the age of Tecrcctareea, the prefent Chief of Huaheine. His looks fhewed, that he was not above ten or twelve years old ; and we were informed, that his father had been killed in one of the battles. As to the time when the war began, we had no better rule for judging, than this, that the young people of about twenty years of age, of whom we made inquiries, could fcarcely remember the fir ft battles ; and I have already mentioned, that Omai's countrymen, whom we found at Wateeoo, knew nothing of this war; fo that its commencement was fubfequent to their voyage. Ever fince the conqucft of Ulietea and Otaha, the Bolabola men have been confidered, by their neighbours, as invincible; and fuch is the extent of their fame, that even at Otaheite, which is almoft out of their reach, if thcy.are not dreaded, they are, at leaft, refpected for their valour. It is faid, that they never fly in battle, and that they always beat an equal number of the other iflanders. But, befides thefe advantages, their neighbours feem to afcribe a great deal to the fuperiority of their god, who, they believed, detained us at Ulietea by contrary winds, as being unwilling that we fhould vifit an ifland under his fpecial protection. * Thefe are taken notice of in Havuktfivorth'i Colktlkn, Vol. ii. p. 256, &c. a How ^1777- . How high the Bolabola men are now in eftimation at Ota-^__j hcite, may be inferred from Monfieur de Bougainville's anchor having been conveyed to them. To the fame caufe we mufl afcribe the intention of tranfporting to their ifland the Spanifh bull. And they had already got poffelfion of a third European curiofity, the male of another animal, brought to Otaheite by the Spaniards. We had been much puzzled, by the imperfect defcription of the natives, to guefs what this could be. But Captain Clerke's deferters, when brought back from Bolabola, told me, that the animal had been there fhewn to them, and that it was a ram. It fcldom happens, but that fome good arifes out of evil ; and if our two men had not deferted, I fhould not have known this. In confequence of their information, at the fame time that I landed to meet Opoony, I carried afhore a ewe, which we had brought from the Cape of Good Hope ; and I hope that, by this prefent, I have laid the foundation for a breed of fheep at Bolabola. I alfo left at Ulietea, under the care of Oreo, an Englifh boar and fow, and two goats. So that, not only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring iflands, will, in a few years, have their race of hogs confiderably improved; and, probably, be flocked with all the valuable animals . which have been tranfported hither by their European vifiters. When once this comes to pafs, no part of the world will equal thefe iflands, in variety and abundance of refrefh-ments for navigators. Indeed, even in their prefent flate, I know no place that excels them. After repeated trials, in the courfe of feveral voyages, we find, when they are not diflurbed by interline broils, but live in amity with one another, which has been the cafe for fome years pafl, that their productions are in the greater! plenty; and, i particularly, particularly, the moft valuable of all the articles, their hogs. If we had had a larger alfortment of goods, and a fufhcient quantity of fait on board, I make no doubt that we might have falted as much pork as would have ferved both fhips near twelve months. But our vifiting the Friendly Iflands, and our long flay at Otaheite and the neighbourhood, quite ex-hauflcd our trading commodities ; particularly our axes, with which alone hogs, in general, were to be purchafed. And we had hardly fait enough to cure fifteen puncheons of meat. Of thefe, five were added to our flock of provifions, at the Friendly Iflands, and the other ten at Otaheite. Captain Clerke alfo falted a proportionable quantity for his fhip. The procefs was the fame that had been adopted by me in my laft voyage ; and it may be worth while to defcribe it again. The hogs were killed in the evening j as foon as they were cleaned, they were cut up, the bone taken out, and the meat falted when it was hot. It was then laid in fuch a pofition as to permit the juices to drain from it, till the next morning, when it was again falted, packed into a cafk, and covered with pickle. Here it remained for four or five days, or a week; after which it was taken out and examined, piece by piece, and if there was any found to be in the leaft tainted, as fometimes happened, it was feparated from the reft, which was repacked into another cafk, headed up, and filled with good pickle. In about eight or ten days time, it underwent a fecond examination; but this feemed unneceffary, as the whole was generally found to be perfectly cured. A mixture of bay and of white fait, anfwers the beft; but either of them will do alone. Great care fhould be taken, that none of the large blood-veffeis remain in the meat; nor muft too great a quantity be packed together Wj ther at the firft falting, left the pieces in the middle mould December. ° r *——' heat, and, by that means, prevent the fait from penetrating them. This once happened to us, when we killed a larger quantity than ufual. Rainy, fultry weather, is unfavourable for faking meat in tropical climates. Perhaps, the frequent vifits Europeans have lately made to thefe iflanders, may be one great inducement to their keeping up a large ftock of hogs, as they have had experience enough to know, that, whenever we come, they may be fure of getting from us what they efteem a valuable con-fideration for them. At Otaheite, they expect the return of the Spaniards every day ; and they will look for the Englifh, two of three years hence, not only there, but at the other iflands. It is to no purpofe to tell them, that you will not return. They think you muft; though not one of them knows, or will give himfelf the trouble to inquire, the rea-fon of your coming. I own, I cannot avoid exprefling it as my real opinion, that it would have been far better for thefe poor people, t never to have known our fuperiority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable, than, after once knowing it, to be again left and abandoned to their original incapacity of improvement. Indeed, they cannot be reftored to that happy mediocrity in which they lived before wc difcovered them, if the intercourfe between us fhould be discontinued. It feems to me, that it has become, in a manner, incumbent on the Europeans to vifit them once in three or four years, in order to fupply them with thofe conveniences which we have introduced among them, and have given them a predilection for. The want of fuch occafional fupplies will, probably, be felt very heavily by them, when it may be too late to go back to their old lefs perfect contrivances, trivances,■ which they now defpifc, and have difcontinued, *777- . December. fince the introduction of ours. For, by the time that the ^—.-*-' iron tools, of which they are now poffeffed, arc worn out, they will have almofl lofl the knowledge of their own. A ftone hatchet is, at prefent, as rare a thing amongfl them, as an iron one was eight years ago; and a chiffel of bone, or flone, is not to be feen. Spike-nails have fupplied the place of thefe lafl s and they are weak enough to fancy, that they have got an inexhauflible flore of them; for thefe were not now at all fought after. Sometimes, however, nails, much fmallcr than a fpike, would ftill be taken in exchange for fruit. Knives happened, at prefent, to be in great efteem at Ulietea; and axes and hatchets remained unrivalled by any other of our commodities, at all the iflands. With re-fpect to articles of mere ornament, thefe people are as changeable as any of the polifhed nations of Europe; fo that what plcafes their fancy, while a fafhion is in vogue, may be rejected, when another whim has fupplanted it-But our iron tools, arc fo flrikingly ufeful, that they will, wc may confidently pronounce, continue to prize them highly.; and be completely miferablc, if, neither poffefling the materials, nor trained up to the art of fabricating them, they fhould ceafe to receive fupplies of what may now be confidcrcd as having become neceffary to their comfortable exiflence. v Otaheite, though not comprehended in-the number of what we have called the Society Iflands, being inhabited by the fame race of men, agreeing in the fame leading features of character and manners, it was fortunate, that we happened to difcover this principal ifland before the others ; as the friendly and hofpitablc reception we there met with, of courfe, led us to make it the principal place of refort, in Vol. II. T our •777- ourfucceflive vifits to this part of the Pacific Ocean. By the December. r . w—„-1 frequency of this intercourfe, we have had better opportunities of knowing fomething about it and its inhabitants, than about the other fimilar, but lefs confiderable, iflands in its vicinity. Of thefe, however, we have feen enough to fa-tisfy us, that all that we obferved and have related of Otaheite, may, with trifling variations, be applied to them. Too much feems to have been already known, and pub-lifhed in our former relations, about fome of the modes of life, that made Otaheite fo agreeable an abode to many on board our fhips ; and if I could now add any finifhing ilrokes to a picture, the outlines of which have been already drawn with fufheient accuracy, I fhould flill have he-fftated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious manners, which could only ferve to difgufl thofe for whofc information I write. There are, however, many parts of the domeflic, political, and religious inflitutions of thefe people, which, after all our vifits to them, are but imperfectly underflccd. The foregoing narrative of the incidents that happened during our flay, will, probably, be thought to throw fome additional light j and, for farther fatisfaction, I refer to Mr. Anderfon's remarks. Amidfl our various fubordinate employments, while at thefe iflands, the great objects of our duty were always attended to. No opportunity was lofl of making aflronomical and nautical obfervations; from which the following table was drawn up: p. Latitude. Longitude. Variation of Dipofthe lIace- South. Eatt. theCompafs. Needle. Matavai Point, Otaheite 17° 291/ 2io° 22' 28" 50 34' Eaft 290 12' Owharre Harbour, Huaheine 160 42^ 208° 52' 24" 5° 131'Eaft 28* 28' Ohamaneno Harbour, Ulietea 160 45*' 2080 25' 2*" 6° 19' Eaft 290 5' The The longitude of the three feveral places is deduced from I777- , December. the mean of 145- fets of obfervations made on more; fome v., —w__$ at one place, and fome at another; and carried on to each of the flations, by the time-keeper. As the fituation of thefe places was very accurately fettled, during my former voyages, the above obfervations were now made chiefly with a view of determining how far a number of lunar obfervations might be depended upon, and how near they would agree with thofe made upon the fame fpot in 1769, which fixed Matavai Point to be in 2100 27' 30". The difference, it appears, is only of 5' 1"; and, perhaps, no other method could have produced a more perfect agreement. Without pretending to fay which of the two computations is the nearefl the truth, the longitude of 2100 22'28", or, which is the fame thing, 208° 25' 22", will be the longitude we fhall reckon from with the time-keeper, allowing it to be lofing, on mean time, i,"6q each day, as found by the mean of all the obfervations made at thefe iflands, for that purpofe. On our arrival at Otaheite, the error of the time-keeper in longitude was, Greenwich rate, i° 18' 58" ongataboo rate o° 16' 40" Some obfervations were alfo made on the tide; particularly at Otaheite and Ulietea ; with a view of afcertaining its greateft rife at the firft place. When wc were there, in my fecond voyage, Mr. Wales thought he had difcovered, that it rofe higher than I had obferved it to do, when I firfl vifited Otaheite in 1769. But the obfervations wc now made, proved that it did not; that is, that it never rofe higher than twelve or fourteen inches at mofl. And it was obferved to be high-water nearly at noon, as well at the quadratures, as at the full, and change of the moon, T 2 To 140 A VOYAGE TO W7; To verify this, the following; obfervations were made at December. / * <=» w-v—-» Ulietea: Day of the Water at a ftand, Mean Time of Perpendicul rife. Month. •om to High Water. Inches. November 6. 11' I5m to I 2h 20m II1' 48™ 5» 5 7- II 40 I CO 12 20 5, 2 8, I 1 35* 12 50 12 12 % .1 I 40 I I 6 12 28 5> 5 10. 11 25 I IO 12 18 6, 5 12 00 I 40 I 0 20 12. I I 00 1 °5 12 02 5>7 13- 9 30 11 40 IO 35 8, 0 14. 11 10 12 50 1 2 00 8,0 9 20 11 30 10 25 9, 2 16. 10 00 12 00 I I 00 9, 0 17- 10 45. fi 15 I I 30 18. 10 25 12 10 I I 18 91 0 19. 11 00 1 00 12 00 8, 0 20. 11 30 2 00 12 45 7, 0 21. 11 00 1 00 I ° 00 8, 0 22. 11 3° 1 07 1 2 18 8, 0 12 00 1 30 12 45 00 December. ftruck us as fuperior in every refpeet; and as poffeiling all »-* thofe delicate characteriftics, which diftinguifh them from the other fex in many countries. The beard which the men here wear long, and the hair which is not cut fo ihort, as is the fafhion at Tongataboo, made alfo a great difference; and we could not help thinking, that, on every occafion, they fliewed a greater degree of timidity and ficklcnefs. The mufcular appearance, fo common amongfl: the Friendly IfLanders, and which feems a confequence of their being accuflomcd to much action, is loft here, where the fuperior fertility of their country enables the inhabitants to lead a more indolent life; and its place is fupplied by a plumpnefs and fmoothnefs of the fkin; which, though, perhaps, more confonant with our ideas of beauty, is no real advantage ; as it feems attended with a kind of languor in all their motions, not obfervable in the others. This obfervation is fully verified, in their boxing and wreft-ling, which may be called little better than the feeble efforts of children, if compared to the vigour with which thefe exercifes are performed at the Friendly Iflands. Perfonal endowments being in great eftcem amongfl them, they have recourfe to feveral methods of improving them, according to their notions of beauty. In particular, it is a practice, efpecially amongfl the Erreoes, or unmarried men of fome confequence, to undergo a kind of phyfical operation to render them fair. This is done by remaining a month or two in the houfe ; during which time they wear a great quantity of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit to which they afcribe a remarkable property in whitening them. They alfo fpeak, as if their corpulence and colour, at other times, depended upon their food; as they arc U 2 obliged, obliged, from the change of feafons, to ufe different forts at different times. Their common diet is made up of, at leaft, nine-tenths of vegetable food; and, I believe, more particularly, the mahee, or fermented bread-fruit, which enters almofl every meal, has a remarkable effect upon them, preventing a cof-tive habit, and producing a very fenfible coolnefs about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on animal food. And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate courfe of life that they have fo few difeafes among them. They only reckon five or fix, which might be called chronic, or national diforders; amongfl which are the dropfy, and the fefai, or indolent fwellings before mentioned, as frequent at Tongataboo. But this was before the arrival of the Europeans ; for we have added to this fhort catalogue, a difeafe which abundantly fupplies the place of all the others j and is now almofl univerfal. For this they feem to have no effectual remedy. The priefls, indeed, fometimes give them a medley of fimples ; but they own that it never cures them. And yet, they allow, that, in a few cafes, nature, without the affiftance of a phyfician, exterminates the poifon of this fatal difeafe, and a perfect recovery is produced. They fay, that, if a man is infected with it, he will often communicate it to others in the fame houfe, by feeding out of the fame utenfils, or handling them; and that, in this cafe, they frequently die, while he recovers; though we fee no reafon why this fhould happen. Their behaviour, on all occafions, feems to indicate a great opennefs and generofity of difpofition. Omai, indeed, who, as their countryman, fhould be fuppofed rather willing willing to conceal any of their defects, has often faid, that ^77^ they are fometimes cruel in punifhing their enemies. Ac- ^—»— Cording to his reprefentation, they torment them very deliberately ; at one time, tearing out fmall pieces of flelh from different parts ; at another, taking out the eyes; then cutting off the nofej and laflly, killing them by opening the belly. But this only happens on particular occafions If chcerfulnefs argues a confeious innocence, one would fup-pofe that their life is feldom fullied by crimes. This, however, I rather impute to their feelings, which, though lively, feem in no cafe permanent; for I never faw them, in any misfortune, labour under the appearance of anxiety, after the critical moment was pad. Neither does care ever feem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the approach of death does not appear to alter their ufual vivacity. I have fecn them, when brought to the brink of the graye by difeafe, and when preparing to go to battle; but, in neither cafe, ever obferved their countenances overclouded with melancholy, or fcrious reflection. Such a difpofition, leads them to direct all their aims only to what can give them pleafure and cafe. Their amufc-ments all tend to excite and continue their amorous paflions; and their fongs, of which they'are immoderately fond, an-fwer the fame purpofe. But as a condant fucceflion of fen-fual enjoyments mud cloy, wc found, that they frequently varied them to more refined fubjects, and had much pleafure in chanting their triumphs in war, and their occupations in peace ; their travels to other iflands, and adventures there; and the peculiar beauties, and fuperior advantages of their own ifland over the red, or of different parts of it over other lefs favourite diflricts. This marks, that they receive great delight from mufic; and though they rather ex- c; pre fled > i-o AVOYAGfcTO l777- preffcd a diflikc to our complicated compofitions, yet were December. * *»—*-' they always delighted with the more melodious founds produced fingly on our inftruments, as approaching nearer to the fimplicity of their own. : Neither arc they ftrangers to the foothing effects produced by particular forts of motion ; which, in fome cafes, feem to allay any perturbation of mind, with as much fuc-cefs as mufic. Of this, I met with a remarkable inftance. For on walking, one day, about Matavai Point, where our tents were erected, I faw a man paddling, in a fmall canoe, fo quickly, and looking about with fuch cagernefs, on each fide, as to command all my attention. At firft, 1 imagined that he had ftolen fomething from one of the fhips, and was purfued ; but, on waiting patiently, faw him repeat his amufement. He went out from the more, till he was near the place where the fwell begins to take its rife; and, watching its firft motion very attentively, paddled before it, with great quicknefs, till he found that it overtook him, and had acquired fufficicnt force to carry his canoe before it, without palling underneath. He then fat motionlefs, and was carried along, at the fame fwift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he ftarted out, emptied his canoe, and went in fcarcli of another fwell. I could not help concluding, that this man felt the moft fupreme pleafure, while he was driven on, fo faft and fo fmoothly, by the fea; cfpccially as, though the tents and fhips were fo near, he did not feem, in the leaft, to envy, or even to take any notice of, the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them as objects which were rare and curious. During my ftay, two or three of the natives came up, who feemed to fhare his felicity, and always called out, when there was an appearance of a favourable fwell, as he fomctimes miff- cd ir, by his back being turned, and looking about for it. By them I underftood, that this exercifc, which is called ehorooe, was frequent amongft them; and they have probably more amufements of this fort, which afford them at leaft as much pleafure as fkaiting, which is the only one of ours, with whofe effects I could compare it. The language of Otaheite, though doubtlefs radically the fame with that of New Zealand and the Friendly Iflands, is deftitute of that guttural pronunciation, and of fome con-fonants, with which thofe latter dialects abound. The fpe-cimens wc have already given, are fufticient to mark wherein the variation chiefly confifts, and to flicw, that, like the manners of the inhabitants, it has become foft and foothing. During the former voyage, I had collected a copious vocabulary, which enabled me the better to compare this dialect with that of the other iflands ; and, during this voyage, I took every opportunity of improving my acquaintance with it, by convcrfing with Omai, before we arrived, and by my daily intercourfe with the natives, while we now remained there *. It abounds with beautiful and figurative exprcffions, which, were it perfectly known, would, I have no doubt, put it upon a level with many of the languages that are moft in efteem for their warm and bold images. For inftance; the Otahcitcans cxprefs their notions of death very emphatically, by faying, u That the foul goes into darknefs ; or rather into night." And, if you feem to entertain any doubt, in afking the queftion, " if fuch a perfon is their mother:" they immediately reply, with fur- * See this vocabulary, at the end of the fecond volume of Captain Cook's fecond voyage- Many corrections, and additions. to it, were now made by this indefatigable inquirer ; but the fpecimens of the language of Otaheite, already in the hands of the Public, fwm fufHcicnt for every ufeful purpofe. prize, '777. prize, " Yes, the mother that bore me," They have one December. *-^ cxpreffion, that coiTcfponds exactly with the phrafeology or the fcriptures, where we read of the 11 yearning of the bowels," They ufe it on all occafions, when the paflions give them uneafinefs ; as they condamly refer pain from grief, anxious defire, and other affections, to the bowels, as its feat; where they likewifc fuppofe all operations of the mind are performed. Their language admits of that inverted arrangement of words, which fo much diflinguiflics the Latin and Greek from mod of our modern European tongues, whofe imperfections require a more orderly con-flruction, to prevent ambiguities. It is fo copious, that for the bread-fruit alone, in its different dates, they have above twenty names ; as many for the taro root; and about ten for the cocoa-nut. Add to this, that, befides the common dialect, they often expodulatc, in a kind of danza or reci-**.TT tative, which is anfwered in the fame manner. Their arts are few and fimple ; yet, if we may credit them, they perform cures in furgery, which our extcnfive knowledge in that branch has not, as yet, enabled us to imitate. In fimple fractures, they bind them up with fplints; but if part of the fubflance of the bone be lod, they infert a piece of wood, between the fractured ends, made hollow like the deficient part. In five or fix days, the rapaooyox furgcon, infpects the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with the growing flefh. In as many more days, it is generally entirely covered ; after which, when the patient has acquired fome flrcngth, he bathes in the water, and recovers. We know that wounds will heal over leaden bullets; and fometimes, though rarely, over other extraneous bodies. But what makes me entertain fome doubt of the truth of fo extraordinary (kilt, as in the above indance is, that in othci1 other cafes which fell under my own observation, they are far from being fo dexterous. 1 have feen the flump of an arm, which was taken off, after being fhattered by a fall from a tree, that bore no marks of fkilful operation, though fome allowance be made for their defective mflruments. And I met with a man going about with a diflocated ihoulder, fome months after the accident, from their being ignorant of a method to reduce it; though this be con-fidered as one of the fimpleft operations of our furgery. They know that fractures or luxations of the fpine are mortal, but not fractures of the lieu 11; and they likewife know, from experience, in what parts of the body wounds prove fatal. They have fometimes pointed out thofe inflicted by fpears, which, if made in the direction they mentioned, would certainly have been pronounced deadly by us j and yet thefe people have recovered. Their phyfical knowledge feems more confined j and that, probably, becaufe their difeafes are fewer than their accidents. The priefls, however, adminiflcr the juices of herbs in fome cafes; and women who are troubled with after-pains, or other diforders after child-bearing, ufe a remedy which one would think needlefs in a hot country. They firfl heat ftones, as when they bake their food; then they lay a thick cloth over them, upon which is put a quantity of a fmall plant of the muflard kind; and thefe are covered with another cloth. Upon this they feat them-feives, and fwcat plentifully, to obtain a cure. The men have practifed the fame method for the venereal lues, but find it ineffectual. They have no emetic medicines. Notwithflanding the extreme fertility of the ifland, a famine frequently happens, in which, it is faid, many perifh. Whether this be owing to the failure of fome fcafons, to Vol. II, X over- '777- over-population, which mud fometimes almofl: neceflarily* December. 11 J '-k--» happen, or to wars, I have not been able to determine; though the truth of the fact may fairly be inferred, from the great ceconomy that they obferve with refpect to their food, even when there is plenty. In times of Scarcity, after their bread-fruit and yams are con fumed, they have re-courfe to various roots, which grow, without cultivation, upon the mountains. The patarra, which is found in vaft quantities, is what they ufe firft. It is not unlike a very large potatoe or yam, and good when in its growing ftate; but, when old, is full of hard ftringy fibres. They then eat two other roots ; one not unlike taro\ and, laftly, the ehoee. This is of two forts ; one of them poifcfhng deleterious qualities, which obliges them to flice and macerate it in water, a night before they bake and eat it. In this refpect, it refembles the cajfava root of the Weft-Indies j but it form3 a very infipid, moift pafle, in the manner they drefs if. However, I have feen them eat it at times when no fuch fcarcity reigned. Both this and the patavra are creeping plants; the laft, with ternate leaves. Of animal food, a very fmall portion falls, at any time, to the fhare of the lower clafs of people; and then it is either fifh, fea-eggs, or other marine productions; for they feldom or ever eat pork. The Eree de hoi * alone, is able to furnifh pork every day ; and inferior Chiefs, according to their riches, once a week, fortnight, or month. Sometimes, they are not even allowed that; for, when the ifland is impoverifhed by war, or other caufes, the Chief prohibits his fubjects to kill any hogs; and this prohibition, we were told, is in force, fometimes, for feveral months, or even for a year or two. Dur- * Mr. Anderfon invariably, in his manufcript, writes Era de hot. According to Captain Cook's mode, it is Eree rahie. This is one of the numerous inftances that perpetually occur, of our people's reprefenting the fame word differently. 7 ing rag that reflraint, the hogs multiply fo fail, that there are «J7K inftances of their changing their domeftic ilate, and turning —.-• wild. When it is thought proper to take off the prohibition, all the Chiefs affemble at the king's place of abode; and each brings with him a prefent of hogs. The king then orders fome of them to be killed, on which they feall; and, after that, every one returns home with liberty to kill what -he plcafes for his own ufe. Such a prohibition was actually in force, on our laft arrival here ; at lead, in all thofe diftricls. of the ifland, that are immediately under the direction of Otoo. And, left it mould have prevented our going to Matavai after leaving Oheitcpeha, he fent a meffage to allure us, that it fhould be taken off, as foon as the mips arrived there. With refpect to us, we found it fo ; but we made fuch a confumption of them, that, I have no doubt, it would be laid on again, as foon as we failed. A Similar prohibition is alfo, fometimes, extended to fowls. It is alfo amongfl the better fort, that the ava is chiefly ufed. But this beverage is prepared fomcwhat differently, from that which wc faw fo much of at the Friendly Iflands. For they pour a very fmall quantity of water upon the root here; and Sometimes road or bake, and bruife the dalks, without chewing it previoufly to its infufion. They alfo ufe the leaves of the plant here, which are bruifed, and water poured upon them, as upon the root. Large companies do not affcmble to drink it, in that fociable way which is practifed at Tongataboo. But its pernicious effects are more obvious here; perhaps, owing to the manner of preparing it; as we often faw indances of its intoxicating, or rather dupifying powers. Some of us, who had been at thefe iflands before, were furprized to find many people, who, when we faw them lad, were remarkable for their X 2 dze fize and corpulency, now almofl reduced to Skeletons ; and, upon inquiring into the caufe of this alteration, it was uni-verfally allowed to be the ufe of the ava. The fkins of thefe people were rough, dry, and covered with Scales ; which, they fay, every now and then, fall off, and their fkin is, as it were, renewed. As an excufe for a practice fo deftructive, they allege, that it is adopted to prevent their growing too fat; but it evidently enervates them; and, in all probability, fhortens their days. As its effects had not been fo vifible, during our former vifits, it is not unlikely that this article of luxury had never been fo much abufed as at this time. If it continues to be fo fafhionablc, it bids fair to deflroy great numbers. The times of eating, at Otaheite, are very frequent. Their firfl meal, or (as it may rather be called) their laft, as they go to deep after it, is about two o'clock in the morning; and the next is at eight. At eleven, they dine ; and again, as Omai expreffed it, at two, and at five ; and fup at eight. In this article of domeftic life, they have adopted fome cuftoms which are exceedingly whimfical. The women, for inftance, have not only the mortification of being obliged to cat by themfelvcs, and in a different part of the houfe from the men; but, by a ftrange-kind of policy, are excluded from a fhare of^oft of the better forts of food. They dare not tafte turtle, nor nfh of the tunny kind, which is much efteemed ; nor fome particular forts of the heft plantains; and it is very Seldom that even thofe of the firft rank are fuffered to eat pork. The children of each fex alfo eat ^part; and the women, generally, Serve up their own victuals ; for they would certainly ftarve, before any grown man would do them fuch an office. In this, as well as in fome other cuftoms relative to their eating, there is a myf-terious conduct, which we could never thoroughly comprc-1 licnd hend. When we inquired into the reafons of it, we could get no other anfwer, but that it is right and neceffary that it fhould be fo. In other cuftoms refpect ing the females, there feems to be no fuch obfcurity; efpecially as to their connections with the men. If a young man and woman, from mutual choice, cohabit, the man gives the father of the girl fuch things as are neccffary in common life j as hogs, cloth, or canoes, in proportion to the time they are together; and if he thinks that he has not been fufhciently paid for his daughter, he makes no fcruple of forcing her to leave her friend, and to cohabit with another perfon who may be more liberal. The man, on his part, is always at liberty to make a new choice j but, fhould his confort become pregnant, he may kill the child ; and, after that, cither continue his connection with the mother, or leave her. But if he mould adopt the child, and fuffer it to live, the parties are then confidered as in the married ftate, and they commonly live together ever after. However, it is thought no crime in the man to join a more youthful partner to his firft wife, and to live with both. The cuftom of changing their connections is, however, much more general than this laft; and it is a thing fo common, that they fpeak of it with great indifference. The Erreoes are only thofe of the better fort, who, from their ficklenefs, and their poffeffing the means of purchafing a fuccefllon of frefli connections, are con-ftantly roaming about j and, from having no particular attachment, feldom adopt the more fettled method mentioned above. And fo agreeable is this licentious plan of life to their difpofttion, that the moft beautiful of both fexes thus commonly fpend their youthful days, habituated to the practice of enormities which would difgrace the moft favage tribes ; but are peculiarly fhocking amongfl a people whole general 1777. general character, in other refpceTs, has evident traces of Decembe?, 1-„-' the prevalence of humane and tender feelings *; When an Errcoc * That the Caroline Iflands are inhabited by the fame tribe or nation, whom Captain Cook found, at fuch jmmcnfe diftanccs, spread throughout the South Pacific Ocean, has been fatisfailorily cfh\bliihcd in fome preceding notes. The fituation of the Ladrones, or Marianne Iflands, dill farther North than the Carolines, hut at no £reat diflance from them, is favourable, at firft fight, to the conjecture, that the .fame race alfo peopled that cluirer; and, on looking into Father le Gobicn's Hi (lory of them, this conjecture appears to be actually confirmed by direct evidence. One of the grcateft Angularities of the Otaheite manners, is the exiftence of the fociety of young *nen, called Erroes, of whom fome account is given in the preceding paragraph. .Now we learn .from Father le Gobien, that fuch a fociety exifts alfo amongft the inhabitants of the Ladrones. His words are; Les Urritoes font parmi ettx les jcuns gens qui vivent ava des maiircjjes, fans vouloir s'engager dans les liens du manage. That there fliould be young men in the Ladrones, as well as in Otaheite, who live with mijlrejfes, without being inclined to enter into the married flatwould not, indeed, furnifh the fhadow of any peculiar refemblance between them. But that the young men in the Ladrones, and in Otaheite, whofe manners are thus licentious, mould be con-fidered as a diftinct confraternity, called by a particular name ; and that this name fhould be the fame in both places : this Angular coincidence of cuftom, confirmed by that of language, feems to furnifh an irrefragable proof of the inhabitants of both places being the fame nation. We know, that it is the general property of the Otaheite dialect, to ("often the pronunciation of its words. And, it is obfervable, that, by the omiflion of one fingle letter (the confonant /J, our Arreoys (as fpelled in Hawkef-worth's Collection), or Erreoes (according to Air. Anderfon's orthography), and the Urritoes of the Ladrones, art bjtought to fuch a fimilitude of found (the only rule of comparing two unwritten languages), that we may pronounce them to be the fame word, without cxpoiing ourfclves to the fhecrs of fupercilious criticilin. One or two more fuch proofs, drawn from fimilarlty of language, in very fignifi-cant words, may be affigncd. Le Gobien tells us, that the people of the Ladrones worfhip their dead, whom they call Anitis. Here, again, by dropping the confonant we have a word that bears a flrong refemblance to that which fo often occurs in Captain Cook's Voyages, when fpeaking of the Divinities of his iflands, whom he calls Eatooas. And it .may be matter of curi fity to remark, that what is called an Aniti, at the Ladrones, is, as we learn from Cantova [Lettres Edifiantes fcf Curieufest Tom. xv. p. 309, 310. J, at the Caroline Iflands, where dead Chiefs are alfo worshipped, called a Tahutup \ and that, by foftening or finking the ftrong founding letters, at the beginning and at the end of this latter word, the Ahutu of the Carolines, the Aiii of the Ladrones, and the Eatooa of the South Pacific iilands, afl'ume fuch a fimilaiity in pronunciation (for wc can nave no other guide), as ftrongly marks one common original. Once moYe ; we learn from Le Gobien, that the Marianne people call their Chiefs Clwmcrris, or Chamoris. And, by foftening the afpirate Ch into T} and the harfh- nefs Erreoe woman is delivered of a child, a piece of cloth, dip- *777; 1 * December. ped in water, is applied to the mouth and nofe, which fuf- <-,—* focates it. As nefs of r into / (of which the vocabularies of the different iflands give us repealed inftances), we have the Tamole of the Caroline Iflands, and the Tamolao, or Tamaha, of the Friendly ones.' If thefe fpecimens of affinity of language fhould be thought too fcanty, fome very remarkable inftances of fimilarity of cuftoms and inflitutions will go far to remove every doubt, i. A divifion into three clafles, of nobles, a middle rank, and the common people, or fervants, was found, bv Captain Cook, to prevail both at the Friendly and the Society Iflands. Father lc Gobien exprefsly tells us, that the fame diftinction prevails at the Ladrones : II y a trois etats, parmi les infulaires, la noblefje, le moyen, if le menu. i. Numberlefs inftances occur in Captain Cook's voyage to prove the great fubjection under which*the people of his iflands are to their Chiefs. We learn from Le Gobien, that it is fo alfo at the Ladrones La nobleffe efl d'un fiert'e incroyable, if tien leptuple dam un abaifement qu'on ne pourroit imaginer en Europe, Sec. 3. The diverfions of the natives at Wateeoo, the Friendly, and the Society Iflands,-have been copioufly defcribed by Captain Cook. How fimilar arc thofe which Le Gobien mentions in the following words, as prevailing at the Ladrones ? lis fe dl-Vertifl'ent a danfer, courir, fautir, lutter, pour s'exercer, if eprouver leur forces. lis prennent grand plaifir a raconter les avantures de leurs ancetres, if a reciter des vers dc leurs poetes. 4. The principal fhare fuftained by the women, in the entertainments at Captain Cook's iflands, appears fufliciently from a variety of inftances in this work; :>nd we cannot read what Le Gobien fays, of the practice at the Ladrones, without tracing the ftrongeft refemblance.— Dans leurs affemblees elles fe mettent doux on trieze femmes en rond, debout, fans fe remuer. Dans cette attitude elles chantent les vers fa-buleux de leurs poetes avec un agreinent, if une jujleffe qui plairoit en Europe. U accord de teur voix ejl admirable, if ne cede en rien a la mufique concertee. Elles out dans les mains de petlts ccquilles, dont elles fe fervent avec beaucoup de prccijion. Elles foutlennent leur voix^ if animent leur chants avec une aflionft vive, if des ge/les ft expre[fives, qu"'elles channent ceux qui les voient, if qui les entendent. 5. We read, in Hawkefworth's account of Captain Cook's firft voyage, Vol. ii. p. 235. that garlands of the fruit of the palm* tree and cocoa-leaves, with other things particularly confecrated to funeral folemnities, are depofited about the places where they lay their dead ; and that provifions and water are alio left at a little diftance. How conformable to this is the practice at the Ladrones, as defcribed by Le Gobien ! lis font quclques repas autour du tombeau\ car on en eleve toujours un fur le lieu oil le corps ejl enterre, on dans le voifinage ; on le charge de fieurs, de branches dc pahnicrs, de coquillages, if de tout cc qu'ils ont de plus precieux. 6. It is the cuftorn at Otaheite [fee Hawkcfworth, Vol. ii. p. 236.] not to bury the fculis of the Chiefs, with the reft of the bones, but to put them into boxes made for that purpofe. Here again, we find the lame Grange cuftorn prevailing at the Ladrones ^ 160 A V O Y A G E T O '777; As in fuch a life, their women muff contribute a very December. v—_t Aarge fhare of its happinefs, it is rather furprizing, befides the humiliacing reliraints they are laid under with regard to food, to find them often treated with a degree of harfhnefs, or rather brutality, which one would fcarcely fuppofe a man would bellow, on an object for whom he had the lead af- drones ; for Le Gobien exprefsly tells us, qu'ils gardent les cranes en leur maifons, that they put thefe fculls into little bafkets (pctites corbeilles) ; and that thefe dead Chiefs are the Anitis, to whom their priefts addrefs their invocations. 7. The people of Otaheite, as we learn from Captain Cook, in his account of Tee's embalmed corpfe, make ufe of cocoa-nut oil, and other ingredients, in rubbing the dead bodies. The people of the Ladrones, Father Le Gobien tells us, fometimes do the fame—D'autres frottent les marts d'lmile odoriferante. 8. The inhabitants of Otaheite [fee Hawkefworth, Vol. ii. p. 239, 240.] believe the immortality of the foul; and that there are two fituations after death, fomewhat analagous to our heaven and hell; but they do not fuppofe, that their actions here in the leaft influence their future ftate. And in the account given in this voyage [Vol. i. p. 403.], of the religious opinions entertained at the Friendly Iflands, wc find there, exactly the fame doctrine. It is very obfervable, how conformable to this is the belief of the inhabitants of the Ladrones—lis font perfuades (fays Le Gobien) de rimmortalite de Vame. lis reconnoiffent mane un Paradis & un Enfer, dont Us fe forment des tdecs affez bizarres. Ce n'ejl point, felon eux, la vertu ni le crime, qui conduit dans ces lieux la j les bonnes ou les mauvaifes aclions n'y fervent de rien. 9. One more very fingular inftance of agreement, fhall clofe this long lift. In Captain Cook's account of the New Zealandcrs [Vol. i. p. 138.], we find, that, according to them, the foul of the man who is killed, and whofc flefh is devoured, is doomed to a perpetual fire ; while the fouls of all who die a natural death, afcend to the habitations of the Gods. And, from Le Gobien, we learn, that this very notion is adopted by his iflanders — Si on a le malheur de mourir de mort violente, on a Venfer pour leur partage. Surely, fuch a concurrence of very characteriftic conformities cannot be the refult of mere accident; and, when combined with the fpecimens of affinity of language mentioned at the beginning of this note, it mould feem, that wc are fully warranted, from premifes thus unexceptionable, to draw a certain conclufion, that the inhabitants of the various iflands difcovered or vifited by Captain Cook, in the South Pacific Ocean, and thofe whom the Spaniards found fettled upon the Ladrones or Mariannes^ in the Northern hemifphere, carried thp fame language, cuftoms, and opinions, from one common center, from which they had emigrated ; and that, therefore, they may be confidered as fcattercd members of the fame nation. Sec Pcre le Gobien's Hifloire des Ifles Mariannes, Book ii. or the fummary of it in Hi/hire des Navigations MUX Terres Auftralcs, T. ii. p. 492—512, from which the material* for this note have been extracted. feci ion. fection. Nothing, however, is more common, than to fee the men beat them without mercy ; and unlefs this treatment is the effect of jealoufy, which both fexes, at leaf!, pretend to be fometimes infected with, it will be difficult to account for it. It will be lefs difficult to admit this as the motive, as I have feen feveral inftances where the women have preferred perfonal beauty to intcrcd; though, I mull own, that, even in thefe cafes, they feem fcarcely fufceptible of thofe delicate fentiments that are the refult of mutual affection j and, I believe, that there is lefs Platonic love in Otaheite than in any other country. Cutting or inciding the fore-fkin mould be mentioned here as a practice adopted amongfl them, from a notion of cleanlincfs; and they have a reproachful epithet in their language, for thofe who do not obferve that cuftorn. When there are five or fix lads pretty well grown up in a neighbourhood, the father of one of them goes to a Taboua, or man of knowledge, and lets him know. He goes with the lads to the top of the hills, attended by a fervant; and, feat ing one of them properly, introduces a piece of wood underneath the forelkin, and deiires him to look afide at fomething he pretends is coming. Having thus engaged the young man's attention to another object, he cuts through the /kin upon the wood, with a mark's tooth, generally at one ftrokc. He then feparatcs, or rather turns back the divided parts-, and, having put on a bandage, proceeds to perform the lame operarion on the other lads. At the end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being taken off, the matter is cleaned away. At the end of five days more, they bathe again, and are well; but a thicknefs of the prepuce, where it was cut, remaining, they go again to the mountains with the Tahoua and fcivant; and a fire being Vol. II. Y prepared, _ '777- prepared, and fome ftefnes heated, the Tahoua puts the pre- December. 11 i r ---' puce between two of them, and fqueezes it gently, which removes the thicknefs, They then return home, having their heads, and other parts of their bodies, adorned with odoriferous flowers; and the Tahoua is rewarded for his fer-vices by their fathers, in proportion to their feveral abilities, with prefents of hogs and cloth; and if they be pooiv their relations are liberal on the occafion. Their religious fyftem is cxtenfive, and, in many inftances, fingular ; but few of the common people have a perfect' knowledge of it; that being confined chiefly to their priefts, who are pretty numerous. They do not feem to pay refpect to one God as poiTefling pre-eminence; but believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very powerful; and, in this cafe, as different parts of the ifland, and the other iflands in the neighbourhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of each, no doubt, think that they have chofen the mofl eminent, or, at leaft, one who is invefted with power fufh-cient to protect them, and to fupply all their wants. If he fhould not anfwer their expectations, they think it no impiety to change ; as has very lately happened in Tiaraboo, where, in the room of the two divinities formerly honoured there, Oraa*, God of Bolabola, has been adopted, I fhould fuppofe, becaufe he is the protector of a people who have been victorious in war; and as, fince they have made this change, they have been very fuccefsful themfelves againft the inhabitants of Otaheite-nooe, they impute it entirely to Oraa, who, as they literally fay, fights their battles. Their afliduity in ferving their Gods is remarkably con-fpicuous. Not only the ivhattasy or offering-places of the * We have here -another inftance of the fame word being differently pronounced by ©ur people. Captain Cook, as appears above, fpeaks of Oik, as the Bolabola God, morals, morals, are commonly loaded with fruits and animals ; but there are few houfes where you do not meet with a fmall place of the fame fort near them. Many of them are fo jigidly fcrupulous, that they will not begin a meal, without firfl laying afide a morfel for the Eatooa ; and we had an opportunity, during this voyage, of feeing their fuperftitious zeal carried to a mod pernicious height, in the inftance of human facrifices ; the occafions of offering which, I doubt, are too frequent. Perhaps, they have recourfe to them when misfortunes occur; for they afked, if one of our men, who happened to be confined, when we were detained by a contrary wind, was taboo? Their prayers are alfo very frequent, which they chant, much after the manner of the fongs in their feftive entertainments. And the women, as in other cafes, are alfo obliged to fhew their inferiority in religious obfervances; for it is required of them, that they ihould partly uncover themfelves, as they pafs the Morals; or take a confiderable circuit to avoid them. Though they have no notion, that their God muft always be conferring benefits, without fometimes forgetting them, or fuffering evil to befall them, they feem to regard this lefs than the attempts of fome more inaufpicious being to hurt them. They tell us, that Etec is an evil fpirit, who fometimes does them mifchief ; and to whom, as well as to their god, they make offerings. But the mifchiefs they apprehend from any fuperior invifible beings, are confined to things merely temporal. They believe the foul to be both immaterial and immortal. They fay, that it keeps fluttering about the lips during the pangs of death ; and that then it afcends, and mixes with, or, as they exprefs it, is eaten by the deity. In this ftate it remains Y i for 1777* for fome time ; after which, it departs to a certain place December. A r L—*-' deflined for the reception of the fouls of men, where it exifls in eternal night j or, as they fometimes fay, in twilight, or dawn. They have no idea of any permanent pu-nifhment after death, for crimes that they have commited on earth ; for the fouls of good and of bad men are eat indiscriminately by God. But they certainly confider this coalition with the Deity as a kind of purification neceflary to be undergone, before they enter a ftate of blifs. For, according to their doctrine, if a man refrain from all connection with women fome months before death, he panes immediately into his eternal manfion, without fuch a previous union, as if already, by this abftinence, he were pure enough to be exempted from the general lot. They are, however, far from entertaining thofe fublime conceptions of happinefs, which our religion, and, indeed, reafon, gives us room to expect hereafter. The only great privilege they feem to think they fliall acquire by death, is immortality; for they fpeak of fpirits being, in fome meafure, not totally diverted of thofe paflions which actuated them when combined with material vehicles. Thus, if fouls, who were formerly enemies, fhould meet, they have many conflicts ; though, it fhould feem, to no purpofe, as they are accounted invulnerable in this invifible ftate. There is a iimilar reafoning with regard to the meeting of man and wife. If the hufband dies firfl, the foul of his wife is known to him on its arrival in the land of fpirits. they refume their former acquaintance, in a fpacious houfe, called Tourooa^ where the fouls of the deceafed aiTemble to recreate themfelvcs with the Gods. She then retires with him to his feparate habitation, where they remain for ever, and have an offspring; which, however, is entirely fpiri- tual y tual j as they are neither married, nor are their embraces *77?' J December. fuppofcd to be the fame as with corporeal beings. v.——* Some of their notions about the deity, are extravagantly abfurd. They believe, that he is fubject ro the power of thofe very fpirits to whom he has given exigence \ and that, in their turn, they frequently eat or devour him, though he pofTels the power of re-creating himfelf. They, doubtlcfs, ufe this mode of expreilion, as they feem incapable of converting about immaterial things, without conftantly referring to material objects to convey their meaning. And in this manner they continue the account, by faying, that, in the tourooa, the deity inquires, if they intend, or not, to de-ftroy him ? And that he is not able to alter their determination. This is known to the inhabitants on earth, as well as to the fpirits; for when the moon is in its wane, it is faid, that they are then devouring their Eatooa; and that, as it increases, he is renewing himfelf. And to this accident, not only the inferior, bur the mofl eminent gods are liable. They alfo believe, that there are other places for the reception of fouls at death. Thus, thofe who are drowned in the fea, remain there ; where they think that there is a fine country, houfes, and every thing that can make them happy. But what is more lingular, they maintain, that not only all other animals, but trees, fruit, and even ftones,. have fouls, which at death, or upon being con fumed or broken, afcend to the divinity, with whom they firft mix, and afterward pafs into the manfion allotted to each. They imagine, that their punctual performance of religious offices procures for them every temporal blefTing, And as they believe, that the animating and powerful influence of the divine fpirit is every where diffufed, it is no wonder wonder that they join to this many fuperftitious opinions about its operations. Accordingly, they believe that fud-den deaths, and all other accidents, are effected by the immediate action of fome divinity. If a man only (tumble againft a ftone, and hurt his toe, they impute it to an Ea-tooa; fo that they may be literally faid, agreeably to their fyftem, to tread enchanted ground. They are ftartled, in the night, on approaching a toopapaoo, where the dead are expofed, in the fame manner that many of our ignorant and fuperftitious people are with the apprehenfions of ghofls, and at the fight of a church yard; and they have an equal confidence in dreams, which they fuppofe to be communications either from their God, or from the fpirits of their departed friends, enabling thofe favoured with them to foretell future events; but this kind of knowledge is confined to particular people. Omai pretended to have this gift. He told us, that the foul of his father had intimated to him in a dream, on the 26th of July 1776, that he mould goon fhore, at fome place, within three days; but he was unfortunate in this firft attempt to perfuade us, that he was a prophet; for it was the ift of Auguft before we got into Teneriffe. Amongfl them, however, the dreamers pof-fefs a reputation little inferior to that of their infpired priefls and priefteffes, whofe predictions they implicitly believe, and are determined by them in all undertakings of confequence. The prieftefs who perfuaded Opoony to invade Ulietea, is much refpected by him ; and he never goes to war, without confulting her. They alfo, in fome degree, maintain our old doctrine of planetary influence ; at lea ft, they are fometimes regulated, in their public counfels, by certain appearances of the moon ;.particularly, when lying horizontally, or much inclined on the convex part, on its firfl firft appearance after the change, they are encouraged to ^JM?' engage in war, with confidence of fuccefs. i-—,—J They have traditions concerning the creation, which, as might be expected, are complex, and clouded with obfcu-rity. They fay, that a goddefs, having a lump or mafs of earth fufpended in a cord, gave it a fwing, and feat-tered about pieces of land, thus conflituting Otaheite and the neighbouring iflands, which were all peopled by a man and woman originally fixed at Otaheite. This, however, only refpects their own immediate creation; for they have notions of an univerfal one before this; and of lands, of which they have now no other knowledge than what is mentioned in the tradition. Their mofl remote account reaches to Tatooma and Tapuppa, male and female flones or rocks, who fupport the congeries of land and water, or our globe underneath. Thefe produced Totorro, who was killed, and divided into land j and, after him, Otaia and Oroo were begotten, who were afterward married, and produced, firfl land, and then a race of gods. Otaia is killed, and Oroo marries- a god, her fon, called Teorraha, whom flie orders to create more land, the animals, and all forts of food found upon the earth; as alfo the iky, which is fup-ported by men called Teeferei. The fpots obferved in the moon, are fuppofed to be groves of a fort of trees which once grew in Otaheite, and, being deflroyed by fome accident, their feeds were carried up thither by doves, where they now flourifh. They have alfo many legends, both religious and hiflo-rical; one of which latter, relative to the practice of eating human flefh, I mail give the fubflance of, as a fpecimen of their method. A long time fmce, there lived in Otaheite two two men called Taheeai; the only name they yet have for cannibals. None knew from whence they came, or in what manner they arrived at the ifland. Their habitation was in the mountains, from whence they ufed to iflue, and kill many of the natives, whom they afterward devoured, and, by that means, prevented the progrefs of population. Two brothers, determined to rid their country of fuch a formidable enemy, ufed a flratagem for their deftruetion, with fuccefs. Thefe mil lived farther upward than the Taheeai, and in fuch a fituation, that they could fpeak with them, without greatly hazarding their own fafety. They invited them to accept of an entertainment, that fhould be provided for them, to which thefe readily confented. The brothers then taking fome flones, heated them in a fire, and thrulting them into pieces of mahee, defired one of the Taheeai to open his mouth. On which, one of thefe pieces was dropped in, and fome water poured down, which made a boiling or hiding noifc, in quenching the ftone, and killed him. They intrcated the other to do the fame; but he declined ir, repre-fenting the confequences of his companion's eating. However, they affured him, that the food was excellent, and its effects only temporary; for that the other would foon recover. His credulity was fuch, that he fwallowed the bait, andfhared the fate of the firfl. The natives then cut them in pieces, which they buried ; and conferred the government of the iiland on the brothers, as a reward for delivering them from fuch monlters. Their refidence was in the diftricT called Whapaeenoo; and, to this day, there remains a bread-fruit tree, once the property of the Taheea/s. They had alfo a woman, who lived with them, and had two teeth of a prodigious fize. After they were killed, fhe lived at the ifland Otaha, and, when dead, was ranked amongfl: 3 thc:" their deities. She did not eat human flefh, as the men; nt77?: December, but, from the fUe of her teeth, the natives ftill call any -v— animal that has a fierce appearance, or is reprefentcd with large tufks, Taheeai. Every one muft allow, that this ftory is juft as natural as that of Hercules deftroying the Hydra, or the more modern one of Jack the giant-killer. But I do not find, that there is any moral couched under it, any more than under moft old fables of the fame kind, which have been received as truths only during the prevalence of the fame ignorance that marked the character of the ages in which they were invented. It, however, has not been improperly introduced, as ferving to cxprefs the horror and deteftation entertained here, againft thofe who feed upon human flefh. And yer» from fome circumftances, I have been led to think, that the natives of thefe iftes were formerly cannibals. Upon afking Omai, he denied it ftoutly; yet mentioned a fact, within his own knowledge, which almoft confirms fuch an opinion. When the people of Bolabola, one time, defeated thofe of Huaheine, a great number of his kinfmen were flain. But one of his relations had, afterward, an opportunity of revenging himfelf, when the Bolabola men were worfted in their turn, and cutting a piece out of the thigh of one of his enemies, he broiled and eat it. I have, alfo, frequently confidered the offering of the perfon's eye, who is fierificed, to the Chief, as a veftige of a cuftorn which once really ex-iftcd to a greater extent, and is ftill commemorated by this emblematical ceremony. The being inverted with the maro, and the prefiding at human facrifices, feem to be the peculiar charaeteriftics of the fovereign. To thefe, perhaps, may be added the blow- Vol. ti. Z ing i777« ing a conch-mell, which produces a very loud found. On 'comber. r . ~ ~v-' hearing it, all his fubjccts are obliged to bring food of every fort to his royal refidcnce, in proportion to their abilities. On fome other occafions, they carry their veneration for his very name, to an extravagant and very deHructive pitch. For if,"on his accefhon to the maro, any words in their language be found to have a refemblance to it in found, they are changed for others; and if any man be bold enough not to comply, and continue to ufe thofe words, not only he, but all his relations, are immediately put to death. The fame feverity is exercifed toward thofe who mail prefume to apply this facred name to any animal. And, agreeably to this cuflom of his countrymen, Omai ufed to exprefs his indignation, thai the Englifh mould give the names of prince or princefs to their favourite horfes or dogs. But while death is the punifhment for making free with the name of their fove-reign, if abufe be only levelled at his government, the offender efcapes with the forfeiture of land and houfes. The king never enters the houfe of any of his fubjects ; but has, in every diftrict, where he vifits, houfes belonging to himfelf. And if, at any time, he fhould be obliged by accident to deviate from this rule, the houfe thus honoured with his prefence, and every part of its furniture, is burnt. His fubjects not only uncover to him, when prefent, down to the waiff; but if he be at any particular place, a pole, having a piece of cloth tied to it, is fet up fome where near, to which they pay the fame honours. His brothers are alfo intitled to the fir 11 part of the ceremony ; but the women only uncover to the females of the royal family. In fhort, they feem even fuperftitious in their refpect to hinn and efleem his perfon little lefs than facred. And it is, perhaps, to thefe circumftances, that he owes the quiet pof- feffiori ieflion of his dominions. For even the people of Tiaraboo ■ '777- i -i i December. allow him the fame honours as his right; though, at the <-ir— fame time, they look upon their own Chief as more powerful ; and fay, that he would fucceed to the government of the whole iiland, fhould the prefent reigning family become extinct. This is the more likely, as Waheiadooa not only poilefles Tiaraboo, but many diflricts of Opooreanoo. His territories, therefore, are almofl equal, in extent, to thofe of Otoo; and he has, befides, the advantage of a more populous and fertile part of the ifland. His fubjects, alfo, have given proofs of their fuperiority, by frequent victories over thofe of Otahcitc-nooe, whom they affect to fpeak of as contemptible warriors, cafily to be worflcd, if, at any time, their Chief fhould wifh to put it to the tell. The ranks of people, befides the Eree de hoi, and his family, arc the Erses, or powerful Chiefs ; the Manahoone, or vaflals ; and the Teouy or Toutoit, fervants, or rather flavcs. The men of each of thefe, according to the regular inflitu-tion, form their connections with women of their refpective ranks; but if with any inferior one, which frequently happens, and a child be born, it is preferved, and has the rank of the father, unlcfs he happens to be an Eree, in which cafe it is killed. If a woman of condition fhould choofe an inferior perfon to officiate as a hufband, the children he has by her are killed. And if a Teou be caught in an intrigue with a woman of the blood-royal, he is put to death. The fon of the Eree de hoi fucceeds his father in title and honours, as foon as he is born ; but if he fhould have no children, the brother affumcs the government at his death. In other families, pofiefnons always defcend to the eldefl fon ; but he is obliged to maintain his brothers and fillers, who are allowed houfes on his eflates. Z 2 The The boundaries of the feveral diflricts, into which Otaheite is divided, are, generally, either rivulets, or low hills, which, in many places, jut out into the fea. But the fub-divifions into particular property, are marked by large ftones, which have remained from one generation to another. The removal of any of thefe gives rife to quarrels, which are decided by arms; each party bringing his friends into the field. But if any one complain to the Eree de hoi, he terminates the difference amicably. This is an offence, however, not common j and long cuftorn feems to fecure property here as effectually, as the mofl fevere laws do in other countries. In conformity alfo to ancient practice eftablifhed amongfl them, crimes of a lefs general nature are left to be punifhed by the fufferer, without referring them to a fuperior. In this cafe, they feem to think, that the injured perfon will judge as equitably as thofe who are totally unconcerned ; and as long cuftorn has allotted certain punifh-ments for crimes of different forts, he is allowed to inflict them, without being amenable to any other perfon. Thus, if any one be caught ftealing, which is commonly done in the night, the proprietor of the goods may put the thief in-itantly to death; and if any one fhould inquire of him after the deceafed, it is fufftcient to acquit him, if he only inform them of the provocation he had to kill him. But fo fevere a punifhment is feldom inflicted, unlefs the articles that are flolen be reckoned very valuable; fuch as breafl-plates, and plaited hair. If only cloth, or even hogs be flolen, and the thief efcape, upon his being afterward difcovered, if he promife to return the fame number of pieces of cloth, or of hogs, no farther punifhment is inflicted* Sometimes, after keeping out of the way for a few days, he is forgiven, or, at moft, gets a flight beating. If a perfon i kill THE PA CI F I C OCEAN, 173 kill another in a quarrel, the friends of the deceafcd af- ^ r777- December. femble, and engage the furvivor and his adherents. If w—*— they conquer, they take poffcflion of the houfe, lands, and goods of the other party; but if conquered, the reverfe takes place. If a Manahoone kill the Toutou> or Have of a Chief, the latter fends people to take poffeflion of the lands and houfe of the former, who flies either to fome other part of the ifland, or to fome of the neighbouring iflands. After fome months he returns, and finding his flock of hogs much increafed, he offers a large prefent of thefe, with fome red feathers, and other valuable articles, to the Toutou's mailer, who generally accepts the compenfation, and permits him to repoflefs his houfe and lands. This practice is the height of venality and injuflice; and the flayer of the flave feems to be under no farther neceflity of abfconding, than to impofe upon the lower clafs of people who are the fufferers. For it does not appear, that the Chief has the leaf! power to punifh this Manahoone; but the whole management marks a collufion between him and his fuperior, to gratify the revenge of the former, and the avarice of the latter* Indeed, we need not wonder that the killing of a man fhould be confidered as fo venial an offence, amongfl a people who do not confider it as any crime at all, to murder their own children. When, talking to them about fuch inflances of unnatural cruelty, and afking, whether the Chiefs or principal people were not angry, and did not punifh them? I was told, that the Chief neither could nor would interfere in fuch cafes; and that every one had a right to do with-his own child what he pleafed. Though the productions, the people, and the cuftoms and manners of all the iflands in the neighbourhood, mayf in general, be reckoned the fame as at Otaheite, there are a .few/ a few differences which mould be mentioned; as this may lead to an inquiry about more material ones hereafter, if fuch there be, of which we are now ignorant. With regard to the little iiland Mataia, or Ofnaburgh Ifland, which lies twenty leagues Eafl of Otaheite, and belongs- to a Chief of that place, who gets from thence a kind of tribute; a different dialect from that of Otaheite is there fpoken. The men of Mataia alfo wear their hair very long; and, when they fight, cover their arms with a fubftance which is befet with marks teeth, and their bodies with a fort of fhagrccn, being fkin of fifties. At the fame time, they are ornamented with polifhed pearl (hells, which make a prodigious glittering in the fun ; and they have a very large one, that covers them before, like a fhield or bread-plate. The language of Otaheite has many words, and even phrafes, quite unlike thofe of the iflands to tlie Weftward of it, which all agree; and it is remarkable for producing great quantities of that delicious fruit we called apples, which arc found in none of the others, except Eimeo. It has alfo the advantage of producing an odoriferous wood, called eahol, which is highly valued at the other ifles where there is none ; nor even in the South Eaft peninfula, or Tiaraboo, though joining it. Huaheine and Eimeo, again, are remarkable for producing greater quantities of yams than the other iflands. And at Mourooa, there is a particular bird, found upon the hills, much cfleemed for its white feathers; at which place there is alfo faid to be fome of the apples, though it be the moft remote of the Society Iflands from Otaheite and Eimeo, where they are produced. Though the religion of all the iflands be. the fame, each of them has its particular, or tutelar God ; whofc names, 2 according THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 175 according to the heft information I could receive, are fet >J77; , 1 a ,, . .. _ December. down m the following lift ■ v~/ Gods of the Ifles. Huaheine, Tanne. Ulietea, Ooro. Otaha, Tamte. Bolabola, Oraa. Mourooa, Otoo, ee weiahoo, Toobaee, Tamoitee. Tabooymanoo, or j Saunders's Ifland, which is fubject to Huaheine, Eimeo, Oroo hadoo. Otaheite } ( Ooroo. ~ 1 . 1 nooe, 3 Otaheite, 1 »Taroa. rn ,fwhom they have late- re. \Opoonooa, and , 1 „ Tiaraboo,*;' \ changed for Oraa, [Whatooteeree, } ^ , fe„ , , ■ God of Bolabo a. Mataia, or Oina-?„ . . . _ , . rn . > 100000, toobooau Ry maraiva. burgh Ifland, ) J The low iiles, Eafl-1_, S Tarn mar ee. ward, 3 Befides the clufter of high iflands from Mataia to Mourooa inclufive, the people of Otaheite are acquainted with a low uninhabited ifland, which they name Mopeeha, and feems to be Howe's Ifland, laid down to the Well ward of Mourooa in our late charts of this ocean. To this the inhabitants of the mofl leeward iflands fometimes go. There. are 1777- are alfo fevcral low iflands, to the North Eaflward of Ota- ccember. • r 1 t n _/ heite, which they have fometimes vifited, but not conftant-ly; and are faid to be only at the diflance of two days fail with a fair wind. They were thus named to me : Orootooa, Otavaoo, where arc large pearls. The inhabitants of thefe hies come more frequently to Otaheite, and the other neighbouring high iflands, from whole natives they differ in being of a darker colour, with a fiercer afpect, and differently punctured. I was informed, that at Mataecva, and others of them, it is a cuftorn for the men to give their daughters to ftrangcrs who arrive amongfl them ; but the pairs mufl be five nights lying near each other, without prefuming to proceed farther. On the fixth evening, the father of the young woman treats his guefl with food, and informs his daughter, that fhe mufl, that night, receive him as her hufband. The ftranger, however, mufl nor offer to exprefs the leaft diflikc, though the bed-fellow allotted to him fhould be ever fo difagreeable; for this is confidcred as an unpardonable affront, and is punifhed with death. Forty men of Bolabola, who, incited by curiofity, had roamed as far as Mataeeva in a canoe, were treated in this manner ; one of them having incautioufly mentioned his diflike of the woman who fell to his lot, in the hearing of a boy who informed her fa- Mataeeva, Oanaa, called Oannah in Dalrympie's Letter to Hawkefworth. Taboohoe, Awehce, Kaoora, ther. thcr. In confequence of this, the Matcevans fell upon them ; _ l\77: 1 *» ', ■ December. but ihefe warlike people killed three times their own num- 1----' ber; though with the lofs of all their party, except five. Thefe hid themfelvcs in the woods, and took an opportunity, when the others were burying their dead, to enter fome houfes, where, having provided themfelvcs with victuals and water, they carried them on board a canoe, in which they made their efcape; and, after pafTmg Mataia, at which they would not touch, at laft arrived fafe at Eimeo. The Bolabolans, however, were fenfible enough that their travellers had been to blame ; for a canoe from Mateeva, arriving fome time after at Bolabola, fo far were they from retaliating upon them for the death of their countrymen, that they acknowledged they had deferved their fate, and treated their vifiters kindly. Thefe low ifles are, doubtlefs, the farther! navigation, which thofe of Otaheite, and the Society Iflands, perform at prefent. It feems to be a groundlefs fuppofition, made by Monf. de Bougainville, that they made voyages of the prodigious extent* he mentions; for I found, that it is reckoned a fort of a prodigy, that a canoe, once driven by a florm from Otaheite, fhould have fallen in with Mopecha, or Howe's Ifland, though fo near, and directly to leeward. The knowledge they have of other diftant iflands is, no doubt, traditional; and has been communicated to them by the natives of thofe iflands, driven accidentally upon their coafls, who, befides giving them the names, could eafily inform them of the direction in which the places lie from whence they came, and of the number of days they had been upon * Sec Bougainville's Voyage autour du Monde, p. 228. where we arc told, that thefe people fometimes navigate at the diftance of more than three hundred leagues. Vol. II. A a the i7?7* the fea. In this manner, it may be fuppofed, that the na- Dcccmber. w-—* tives of Wateeoo have increafed their catalogue by the addition of* Otaheite and its neighbouring ifles, from the people we met with there, and alfo of the other iflands thefe had heard of. We may thus account for that extenfive knowledge attributed, by the gentlemen of the Endeavour *, to Tupia, in fuch matters. And, with all due deference to his veracity, I prefume that it was, by the fame means of information, that he was able to direct the fhip to Oheteroa, without having ever been there himfelf, as he pretended y which, on many accounts, is very improbable." * Hawkefworth's Collection, Vol. ii. p. 278.. CHAP. CHAR X. Progrefs of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Iflands.—• Chriflmas Ifland difcovered, and Station of the Ships there.—Boats fent afore.—Great Succefs in catching Turtle.—An Eclipfe of the Sun obferved.—Diflrefs of tivo Sea?nen who had lofl their Way.—Infer ipt ion left in a Bottle.—Account of the Ifland.—Its Soil.—Trees and Plants.—Birds.—Its Size.—Form.—Situation.— Anchoring Ground* o AFTER leaving Bolabola, I fleered to the Northward, p*™^ i i clofe-hawled, with the wind between North Eafl and '--' Eafl; hardly ever having it to the Southward of Eafl, till Monday8, after we had croffed the line, and had got into North latitudes. So that our courfe, made good, was always to the Well of North, and, fometimes, no better than North Weft. Though feventeen months had now elapfed fince our departure from England, during which, wc had not, upon the whole, been un profitably employed, I was fcnfihle thatf with revard to the principal object of my inftructions, our voyage was, at this time, only beginning; and, therefore, my attention to every circumflancc that might contribute toward our fafety, and our ultimate fuccefs, was now to be called forth anew. With this view I had examined into the ftate of our provifions at the laft iflands ; and, as foon as I had left them, and got beyond the extent of my former dif • A a 2 coveries, coverics, I ordered a furvey to be taken of all the boat-fwain's and carpenter's flores that were in the mips, that I might be fully informed of the quantity, flate, and condition of every article ; and, by that means, know how to ufe them to the greatefl advantage. Before I failed from the Society Iflands, I lofl no opportunity of inquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any iflands in a North or a North Weft direction from them ; but I did not find that they knew of any. Nor did we meet with any thing that indicated the vicinity of land, till we came to about the latitude of 8° South, where we began to fee birds; fuch as boobies, tropic and men-of-war-birds, tern, and fome other forts. At this time, our longitude was 2050 Eafl. Mendana, in his firfl voyage in 1568*, difcovered an iiland which he named Ifla de Jefus, in latitude 6° 45' South,,and . 1450 leagues from Callao, which is 200* Eafl longitude from Greenwich. We croffed this latitude near a hundred leagues to the Eaflward of this longitude, and faw there many of the above-mentioned birds ; which are feldom known to go very far from land. In the night, between the 2id and 23d, we croffed the line in the longitude of 2030 15' Eafl. Here the variation of the compafs was 6° 30' Eafl nearly. On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land was difcovered bearing North Eafl by Eafl, half Eafl. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of thofe low iflands fo common in this ocean ; that is, a narrow bank of land inclofing the fea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were feen in two or three places ; but, in general, the land had a very barren appearance. At noon, it extended from North Eafl by Eafl, to South by Eafl, half Eafl, about four miles * See Dalrymplc's Collection, Vol. i. p. 45. 6 diflanr. diflant. The wind was at Eafl South Eafl; fo that wc were »777; December. under a neceftity of making a few boards, to get up to the <— Ice, or Weft fide; where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fand; the leafl depth about half a mile from the breakers, and the greatefl about one mile. The meeting with foundings determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get fome turtle j for the ifland feemed be a likely place to meet with them, and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms ; and then a boat was difpatched to examine whether it was practicable to land ; of which I had fome doubt, as the fea broke in a dreadful furf all along the fhore. When the boat returned, the officer, whom I had intruftcd with this examination, reported to me, that he could fee no place where a boat could land ; but that there was great abundance of fifh in the fhoal water, without the breakers. At day-break, the next morning, I fent two boats, one from r«, fI each fhip, to fearch more accurately for a landing-place; and, at the fame time, two others, to fifh at a grappling near the fhore. Thefe laft returned about eight o'clock, with upward of two hundred weight of fifh. Encouraged by this fuccefs, they were difpatched again after brcakfaft ; and I then went in another boat, to take a view of the coaft, and attempt landing; but this I found to be wholly impracticable. Toward noon, the two boars, fent on the fame fearch, returned. The maftcr, who was in that belonging to the Resolution, reported to mc, that, about a league and a half to the North, was a break in the land, and a channel into the lagoon, confequcntly, that there was a fit place for landing ; and that he had found the fame foundings off this entrance, as we had where wc now lay. In confequence December back to the fhip, laden with turtle. At the fame time, he fent me a meffage, defiring, that the boats might be ordered round by fea, as he had found a landing-place on the South Eafl fide of the ifland, where mofl of the turtle were caught; fo that, by fending the boats thither, the trouble would be faved of carrying them over the land to the infide of the lagoon, as had been hitherto done. The boats were, accordingly, difpatched to the place which he pointed out. On the morning of the 30th, the day wdien the eclipfe Tuefdayj* was to happen, Mr. King, Mr. Bayly, and myfelf, went afhore, on the fmall ifland. above-mentioned, to attend the obfervation. obfervation. The fky was over-cad, till pad nine o'clock, when the clouds about the fun difperfed long enough to take its altitude, to rectify the time by the watch we made ufe of. After this, it was again obfeured, till about thirty minutes pad nine; and then we found, that the eclipfe was begun. We now fixed the micrometers to the telefcopes, and obferved, or meafured, the uncclipfed part of the fun's difk. At thefe obfervations, I continued about three-quarters of an hour before the end, when I left off; being, in fact, unable to continue them longer, on account of the great heat of the fun, incrcafed by the reflection from the fand. The fun was clouded at times ; but it was clear, when the eclipfe ended, the time of which was obferved as follows : IT. M. S. f Mr. Bayly 1 f o 26 3 1 By\Mr. King > at < o 26 1 > Apparent Time P. M. (Myfelf J ( o 25 37 ) Mr. Bayly and I obferved with the large achromatic telefcopes ; and Mr. King with a reflector. As Mr. Bayly's tcle-fcope and mine were of the fame magnifying power, I ought not to have differed fo much from him as I did. Perhaps, it was, in part, if not wholly, owing to a protuberance in the moon, which efcaped my notice, but was fecn by both the other gentlemen. In the afternoon, the boats and turtling party, at the South Ead part of the ifland, all returned on board, except a feaman belonging to the Difcovery, who had been milling two days. There were two of them at firft, who had loft their' way ; but difagrceing about the mod probable track to bring them back to their companions, they had feparated; and and one of them joined the party, after having been ab- _ lW; J 1 < Pecrnibcr. fent twenty-four hours, and been in great diflrefs. Not 1—-v—^ a drop of frefli water could be had, for there is none upon the whole iiland ; nor was there a Angle cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirfl, he had recourfe to the Angular expedient of killing turtle, and drinking their blood. Flis mode of refrefhing himfelf, when weary, of which he faid he fclr the good effects, was equally whim- Acal. lie undrefled himfelf, and lay down for fome time in the mallow water upon the beach. It was a matter of furprize to every one, how thefe two men could contrive tolofe themfelves. The land over which they had to travel, from the fea-coafl to the lagoon, where the boats lay, was not more than three miles acrofs; nor was there any thing to obflrucl their view; for the country was a flat, with a few fhrubs fcattered upon it; and, from many parts of it, the mafls of the fhips could eaflly be feen. But this was a rule of direction they never once thought of; nor did they recollect in what quarter of the ifland the fhips had anchored; and they were as much at a lofs how to get back to them, or to the party they had flraggled from, as if they had but jufl dropped from the clouds. Confidering how flrange a fet of beings the generality of feamen are, when on fhore, inftead of being furprized that thefe two men fhould thus lofe their way, it is rather to be wondered ar, that no more of the party were miffing. Indeed, one of thofe who landed with me, was in a Amilar fituation; but he had fagacity enough to know that the fhips were to leeward, and got on board almofl as foon as it was] difcovered that he had been left behind. Vol, II. As _ 1777- As foon as Captain Clerke knew, that one of the ftraofglers December. * oo >--w~—/ was ftill in this awkward fituation, he fent a party in fearch of him; but neither the man nor the party having come Wednef. 31. back, the next morning, I ordered two boats into the lagoony to go different ways, in profecution of the fearch. Not long after, Captain Clcrke's party returned with their loft companion ; and my boats having now no object- left, I called them back by fignal. This poor fellow mufl have fuffered far greater diflrefs than the other ftraggler; not only as having been lofl a longer time, but as wc found that he was too fqueamifh to drink turtle's blood. Having fome cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a ftate of vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the little ifland where we had obferved the eclipfe ; and fome melon-feeds were fown in another place. I alfo left, on the little ifland, a bottle containing this infeription : Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Deccmbris, IJJJ'. {Refolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. [Difcovery, Car* Clerke, Pr. 1778. January. Thurfday I. On the 1 ft of January 1778, I fent boats to bring on board all our parties from the land, and the turtle they had caught. Before this v/as completed, it was late in the afternoon ; fo that I did not think proper to fail till next morning. Wc got at this ifland, to both fhips, about three hundred turtle, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind; and perhaps as good as any in the world. We alfo caught, with hook and line, as much fifh as wc could confume, during our flay. They confided principally of cavallics, of different fizes; large and fmall Snappers; and a few of two forts THE - PACIFIC OCEAN. 187 forts of rock-fifh; one with numerous fpots of blue, and '77s- ' r January. the other with whitifh flreaks fcattered about. v.—«— The foil of this ifland, in fome places, is light and black, evidently compofed of decayed vegetables, the dung of birds, and fand. There arc other places again, where nothing but marine productions, fuch as broken coral ftones, and fhells, are to be feen. Thefe are depofitcd in long, narrow ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the fea-coafl, not unlike a ploughed field 5 and mufl have been thrown up by the waves, though, at this time, they do not reach within a mile of fome of thefe places. This feems to furnifh an inconteflable proof, that the ifland has been produced by acceflions from the fea, and is in a ftate of in-creafe; for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the fhells, are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds, from the beach, to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of frefli water was any where found, though frequently dug for. We met with feveral ponds of fait water, which had no vifible communication with the fea, and mufl, therefore, in all probability, be filled by the water filtrating through the fand, in high tides. One of the lofl men found fome fait on the South Eafl part of the ifland. But, though this was an article of which we were in want, a man who could lofe himfelf, as he did, and not know whether he was travelling Eafl, Weft, North, or South, was not to be depended upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the place. There were not the fmallefl traces of any human being having ever been here before us ; and, indeed, fhould anyone be fo unfortunate as to be accidentally driven upon the ifland, or left there, it is hard to fay, that he could be able B b 2 to I??8- to prolong cxillencc. There is, indeed, abundance of birds and fifh.; but no viable means of allaying third, nor any vegetable that could fupply the place of bread, or correct the bad effects of an animal diet; which, in ail probability, would foon prove fatal alone. On the few cocoa-trees upon the ifland, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and, in general, what was found, was cither not fully grown, or had the juice fait, or brackifh. So that a fhip touching here, mufl expect nothing but fifh and turtle; and of thefe an abundant fupply may be depended upon. On fome parts of the land were a few low trees. Mr. Anderfon gave me an account, alfo, of two fmall fhrubs, and of two or three fmall plants; all which we had feen on Palmerflon's Ifland, and Otakootaia. There was alfo a fpe-cics of Jida, or Indian mallow; a fort of purflain ; and another fmall plant, that feemed, from its leaves, a mefembryan-thcmnm\ with two fpecies of grafs. But each of thefe vegetable productions was in fo fmall a quantity, and grew with fo much languor, that one is almofl furprized that the fpecies do not become extinct. Under the low trees above-mentioned, fat infinite numbers of a new fpecies of tern, or egg-bird, t Thefe are black above, and white below, with a white arch on -die forehead ; and*are rather larger than the common noddy. Moil of them had lately hatched their young ; which lay under old ones, upon the bare ground. The refl had eggs; of which they only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, bluifh and fpcckled with black. There were alfo a good many common boobies; a fort that are almofl like a gan-net; and a footy, or chocolate-coloured one, with a white belly, belly. To this lid we mud add men-of-war-birds ; tropic- *77«- J 1 |aauary, birds; curlews-, fand pipers ; a fmall land-bird like a u.— hedge-fparrow; land-crabs; fmall lizards; and rats. As we kept our Chridmas here, I called this difcovery Chridmas Ifland. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. It feemed to be of a femicir-cular form; or like the moon in the laft quarter, the two horns being the North and South points ; which bear from each other nearly North by Eaft, and South by Weft, four or five leagues diftant. This Weft fide, or the little ifle at the entrance into the lagoon, upon which we obferved the eclipfe, lies in the latitude of i° S9' North, and in the longitude of 202° 30' Eaft, determined by a confiderable number of lunar obfervations, which differed only 7' from the time-keeper ; it being fo much lefs. The variation of the compafs was 6° 22^ Eaft ; and the dip of the North end of the needle 11° 54'. Chridmas Ifland, like mod: others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef of coral rocks, which extends but a little way from the fhore. Farther out than this reef, on the Wed fide, is a bank of fine fand, extending a mile into the fea. On this bank is good anchorage, in any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In lefs than the firfl mentioned depth, the reef would be too near^ and in more than the lad, the edge of the bank would not be at a fufheient didance. During the time we lay here, the wind blew, condantly, a frefh gale at Ead, or Ead by South, except one or two days. Wc had, always, a great fwell from the Northward, which broke upon the reef, in a prodigious furf. We had found this fwell before we came to the ifland ; and it continued for fome days after we left it. CHAP. CHAP. X, Seme IJlands difcovered. — Account of the Natives of Atooi) who come off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on board. — One of them killed.—Pn cautions ufed to prevent Intercourfe with the Females.—A watering-place found.—Reception upon landing,—Excur-flon into the Country.—A Morai vifted and defcribed.— Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human Sacrifices, there buried.—Another If and, called Oneeheow vifted.—Ceremonies performed by the Natives^ who go off to the Ships.—Reafons for believing that they are Cannibals.— A Party fent afIiorey who re?nain two Nights.—Accomit of what paffed on landing.—The Ships leave the IJlands^ and proceed to the North. /~XN the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, v*/ and rcfumed our courfe to the North ; having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at Eaft, and Eafl South Eafl, till we got into the latitude of 70 45' North, and the longitude of 2050 Eafl, where we had one calm day. This was fucceeded by a North Eafl by Eafl, and Eafl North Ead wind. At firfl it blew faint, but frefhened as we advanced to the North, We continued to fee birds every day, of the forts laft mentioned; fometimes in greater numbers than others; and between the latitude of io° and 110, we faw feveral turtle. All thefe are looked upon as figns of the vicinity of 5 land. January. >---—_y Sunday 18. land. However, we difcovered none till day-break, in the _f778 morning of the 18th, when an ifland made its appearance, bearing North Eafl by Eafl; and, foon after, we faw more land bearing North, and entirely detached from the former. Both had the appearance of being high land. At noon, the firfl bore North Eafl by Eafl, half Eafl, by eflimation about eight or nine leagues diflant; and an elevated hill, near the Eall end of the other, bore North, half Weft. Our latitude, at this time, was it* iz\ North; and longitude 2000 41', Eaft. Wc had now light airs and calms, by turns; fo that, at funfet, wc were not lefs than nine or ten leagues from the neareft land. On the 19th, at fun-rife, the ifland firft fecn, bore Eaft, fe- Monday if? veral leagues diflant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our getting near it, I ftood for the other, which we could reach ; and, not long after, difcovered a third ifland in the direction of Weft North Weft, as far dif-tant as land could be feen. We had now a fine breeze at Eaft by North ; and I fleered for the Eaft end of the fecond iiland ; which, at noon, extended from North, half Eaft, to Weft North Weft, a quarter Weft, the neareft part being about two leagues dlftaht. At this time, we were in fome doubt whether or no the land before us was inhabited ; but this doubt was foon cleared up, by feeing fome canoes coming off from the fhore, toward the mips. I immediately brought to, to give them time to join us. They had from three to fix men each ; and, on their approach, wc were agreeably furprized to find, that they fpoke the language of Otaheite, and of the other iflands we had lately vifited. It required but very little addrefs, to get them to come along-fide ; but no intreaties could prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied fome brafs medals to a rope, 1778. rope, and gave them to thofe in one of the canoes, who, in —.-> return, tied fome fmall mackerel to the rope, as an equivalent. This was repeated ; and fome fmall nails, or bits of iron, which they valued more than any other article, were given them. For thefe they exchanged more fifh, and a fweet potatoe ; a fure fign that they had fome notion of bartering; or, at leafl, of returning one prefent for another. They had nothing elfe in their canoes, except fome large gourd fhells, and a kind of fifhing-net; but one of them offered for falc the piece of fluff that he wore round his waifl, after the manner of the other iflands. Thefe people were of a brown colour; and, though of the common fize, were floutly made. There was little difference in the cafts of their colour, but a confiderable variation in their features.; fome of their vifages not being very unlike thofe of Europeans. The hair of mofl of them was cropt pretty fhort; others had it flowing loofe; and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In all, it feemed to be naturally black; but mofl of them had flained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Inlanders, with fome fluff which gave it a brown or burnt colour, in general, they wore their beards. They had no ornaments about their perfons, nor did we obferve that their ears were perforated; but fome were punctured on the hands, or near the groin, though in a fmall degree ; and the bits of cloth, which they wore, were curioufly flained with red, black, and white colours. They feemed very mild ; and had no arms of any kind, if we except fome fmall ftones, which they had evidently brought for their own defence ; and thefe they threw overboard when they found that they were not wanted. Seeing no figns of an anchoring-place at this Eaflcrn extreme of the ifland, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along along the South Eafl fide, at the diflance of half a league from the fhore. As foon as we made fail, the canoes left ns ; but others came off, as we proceeded along the coafl, bringing with them roafling-pigs, and fome very fine potatoes, which they exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever was offered to them. Several fmall pigs were purchafed for a fixpenny nail; fo that wc again found our-felves in a land of plenty; and jufl at the time when the turtle, which wc had fo fortunately procured at Chridmas Ifland, were nearly expended. We paffed feveral villages; fome fcated near the fea, and others farther up the country. The inhabitants of all of them crowded to the fhore, and collected themfelves on the elevated places to view the fhips. The land upon this fide of the iiland rifes, in a gentle Hope, from the fea to the foot of the mountains, which occupy the centre of the country, except at one place near the Eafl end, where they rife directly from the fea, and feemed to be formed of nothing but ftone, or rocks lying in horizontal Jirata. We faw no wood, but what was up in the interior part of the ifland, except a few trees about the villages; near which, alfo, we could obferve feveral plantations of plantains and fugar-canes, and fpots that feemed cultivated for roots. We continued to found, without ftriking ground with a line of fifty fathoms, till we came abreail of a low point, which is about the middle of this fule of the ifland, or rather nearer the North Well end. Here we met with twelve and fourteen fathoms, over a rocky bottom. Being pad this point, from which the coad trended more Northerly, we had twenty, then fixtecn, twelve, and, at lad, live fathoms over a fandy bottom. The lad foundings were about a mile from the fhore. Night now put a dop to any farther researches ; Vol, II. C c and and we fpent it Handing off and on. The next morning, we flood in for the land, and were met with feveral canoes fdled with people; fome of whom took courage, and ventured on board. In the courfe of my feveral voyages, I never before met with the natives of any place fo much aflonifhed, as thefe people were, upon entering a fhip. Their eyes were continually flying from object to object; the wildnefs of their looks and geftures fully cxprefling their entire ignorance about every thing they faw, and flrongly marking to us, that, till now, they had never been vifited by Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except iron ; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had known it in fome fmall quantity, brought to them at fome diflant period. They feemed only to under-Hand, that it was a fubflance, much better adapted to the purpofes of cutting, or of boring of holes, than any thing their own country produced. They afked for it by the name of hamalte, probably referring to fome inflrument, in the making of which iron could be ufcfully employed ; for they applied that name to the blade of a knife, though we could be certain that they had no idea of that particular inflrument; nor could they, at all, handle it properly. For the fame rcafon, they frequently called iron by the name of toe, which, in their language, fignifle3 a hatchet, or rather a kind of adze. On afking them what iron was, they immediately anfwered, " We do not know; \ou know what it is, and wc only underfland it as toe, or hmnaite" When we fhewed them foine beads, they aiked firfl, " What they were; and then, whether they fhould cat them.'' But on their being told, that they were to be hung in their ears, they returned them as ufelefs. They were equally indifferent ferent as to a looking-glafs, which was offered them, and »77* returned it, for the fame reafon ; but fufhciently exprefied <_ their defire for hamaite and toe, which they wifhed might be very large. Plates of earthen-ware, china cups, and other fuch things, were fo new to them, that they afked if they were made of wood; but wifhed to have fome, that they might carry them to be looked fkins, though moid, had neither a tafte nor fmell that January. c **—v—-t could give room to fufpect the ufe of antiputrefcent fub-fiances*. Thurfdayzx, In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained almofl continually. The wind was at South Eaft, South South Eaft, and South ; which brought in a fhort, chopping , fea ; and as there were breakers little more than two cables length from the ftcrn of our fhip, her fituation was none of the fafeft. The furf broke fo high againft the more, that we could not land in our boats; but the day was not wholly loft ; for the natives ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the fhips hogs and roots, which they bartered as before. One of our vifiters, on this occafion, who offered fome fifh-hooks to fale, was obferved to have a very fmall parcel, tied • It is matter of real curiofity to obferve, how very extenfively the predilection for red feathers is fpread throughout nil the iflands of the Pacific Ocean : and the additional circumftancc, mentioned in this paragraph, will, probably, be looked upon, by thofe who amufe themfelvcs in tracing the wonderful migrations of the fame family, or tribe, as a confirmation of that hypothefis (built indeed on other inftances of refemblance), which confiders New Guinea, and its neighbouring Eaft India iflands, from whence the Dutch bring their birds of paradife, as originally peopled by the fame race, which Captain Cook found at every ifland from New Zealand to this new group, to which Atooi belongs. What Mr. Sonnerat tells us, about the bird of paradife, agrees perfectly with the account here given of the preferved red-birds. Speaking of the Papons, he proceeds thus: 11 lis nous prefentercnt pluficurs efpeces d'oifeaux, aufli elegants par " leur forme, que brillants par l'eclat delcur coulcurs. La depouille des oifeaux fert *' a la paruro des Chef*, qui la portent attache's a leurs bonnets en forme d'aigrettes. Mais en priparant les peaux, ils ceupent les pieds. Les Hollandois, qui trafiquent fyr ces cotes, y achetent de ces pcaux ainfi preparecs, les tranfportent en Perfe, a Su-*' rate, dans les Indes, oil ils les vendent fort chere aux habitans riches, qui en font ■" des aigrettes pour leurs turbans, & pour le cafquc des guerricrs, & qui en parent ■" leur chevaux. Celt de la qu'eft venue l'opinion, qu'une dc ces ei'peccs d'oifeaux " (l'oifeau dc paradis) na point de pattes. Les Hollandois ont accredit** ces fables, " qui, en jetant du mcrveilleux fur l'objet dont ils traffiquoient, etoient propres a le *' rendre plus precieux, & a en rechaufler la valeur." Voyage a la Nouvelle Guinee, p. 154- -h to to the firing of one of them, which he feparated with great ijjjj' care, and referved for himfelf, when he parted with the l-■-'. hook. Being afked, what it was ? He pointed to his belly, and fpoke fomething of its being dead; at the fame time faying, it was bad ; as if he did not wilh to anfvvcr any more qucflions about it. On feeing him fo anxious to conceal the contents of this par. el, he was requcfled to open ir, ■which he did with great reluctance, and fome difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of clotht We found, that it contained a thin bit of flefh, about two inches long, which, to appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with fait water. It flruck U3, that it might be human flefh, and that thefe people might, perhaps, cat their enemies j as we knew, that this was the practice of fome of the natives of the South Sea iflands. The queflion being put to the perfon who produced it, he anfwered, that the flefh was part of a man. Another of his countrymen, who flood by him, was then afked, whether it was their cuftorn to eat thofe killed in battle? and he immediately anfwered in the affirmative. There were fome intervals of fair weather in the afternoon; and the wind then inclined to the Eaft and North Eaft; but, in the evening, it veered back again to South South Eafl, and the rain alfo returned, and continued all night. Very luckily, it was not attended with much wind. We had, however, prepared for the worfl, by dropping the fmall bower anchor ; and ftriking our top-gallant-yards. At feven o'clock, the next morning, a breeze of wind Friday 23.* fpringing up at North Eafl, I took tip the anchors, with a view of removing the fhip farther out. The moment that the laft anchor was up, the wind veered to the Eafl, which Vol. II. E c made •778. made it neceffary to fet all the fail we could, in order to January. c mm^mmJ clear the more; fo that, before wc had tolerable fea-room, we were driven fome diflance to leeward. We made a flretch off, with a view to regain the road; but having very little wind, and a ftrong current againft us, I found, that this was not to be effected. I therefore difpatched Meffrs. King and Williamfon afhore, with three boats, for water, and to trade for refrefhments. At the fame time, I fent an order to Captain Clerke, to put to fea after me, if he mould fee that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one, or perhaps a harbour, at the Weft end of the ifland, I was the lefs anxious about getting back to my former ftation. But as I had fent the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as poflible ; notwithstanding which, at noon, we were three leagues to leeward. As we drew near the Weft end of the ifland, wc found the coafl to round gradually to the North Eafl, without forming a creek, or cove, to fheker a vcflel from the force of the fwell, which rolled in from the North, and broke upon the fhore in a prodigious furf; fo * that all hopes of finding a harbour here vanifhed. Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we flood out to fea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very averfe to believe thefe people to be cannibals, notwithstanding the fufpicious circumftance which had happened the day before, we took occafion now to make fome more inquiries about this. A fmall wooden inftru-ment, befet with marks teeth, had been purchafed; and from its refemblance to the faw or knife ufed by the New Zealanders, to difTect the bodies of their enemies, it was fufpected to have the fame ufe here. One of the natives being afked about this, immediately gave the name of the inflrument, and told us, that it was ufed to cut out the 5 ilefhy flcfhy part of the belly, when any perfon was killed. This , January. explained and confirmed the circumflance above-mentioned, \-J^mj of the perfon pointing to his belly. The man, however, from whom we now had this information, being afked, if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out ? denied it ftrongly; but, upon the queftion being repeated, fhewed fome degree of fear, and fwam to his canoe. Jufl before he reached it, he-made figns," as he had done before, expreflivc of the ufe of the inflrument. And an old man, who fat fore mofl in the canoe, being then afked, whether they eat the flefh ? anfwered in the affirmative, and laughed, feem-ingly at the fimplicity of fuch a queftion. lie affirmed the fact, on being afked again ; and alfo faid, it was excellent food, or, as he expreffed it, " favoury eating." At feven o'clock in the evening, the boats returned, with two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and fome roots. Mr. King informed mc, that a great number of the inhabitants were at the watering or landing place. He fuppofed, that they had come from all parts of the iiland. They had brought with them a great many fine fat hogs, to barter ; but my people had not commodities with them equal to the purchafc. This, however, was no great lofs; for we had already got as many on board, as we could well manage for immediate ufe ; and, wanting the materials, we could not have falted them. Mr. King a.lfo told me, that a great deal of rain had fallen afhore, whereas, out at fea, we had only a few fhowcrs; and that the furf had run fo high, that it was with great difficulty our men landed, and got back into the boat's. "We had light airs and calms, by turns, with fhowcrs of rain, all night; and at day-break, in the morning of the 24th, we found, that the currents had carried the fhip to Saturday i*. E e 2 the the North Weft and North; fo that the Weft end of the January. y——1 iiland, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore Eaft, one league diflant; another iiland, called Oreehoua, Weft by South; and the high land of a third ifland, called Oneeheow, from South Weft by Weft, to Weft South Weft. Soon after, a breeze fprung up at North ; and, as I expected that this would bring the Difcovery to fea, I ftcered for Oneeheow, in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there, if I fhould find a convenient place. I continued to fleer for it, till paft eleven o'clock, at which time wc were about two leagues from it. But not feeing the Difcovery, and being doubtful whether they could fee us, I was fearful left fome ill confequence might attend our feparat-ing fo far. I, therefore, gave up the defign of vifiting Oneeheow for the prefent, and ftood back to Atooi, with an intent to anchor again in the road, to complete our water. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the Northerly wind died away, and was fuccccdcd by variable light airs and calms, that continued till eleven at night, with which we ftretched to Sunday 25. the South Ead, till day-break in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked and ftood in for Atooi road, which bore about North from us ; and, foon after, wc were joined by the Difcovery. Wc fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road, which, though fonear, we never could recover; for what we gained at one time, we loft at another; fo that, Tiiurfday?o. by the morning of the 251th, the currents had carried us Weftward, within three leagues of Oneeheow. Being tired with plying fb urifucccfsfully, I gave up all thoughts of getting back to Atooi, and came to-the rcfolution of trying, whether we could not procure what we wanted at the other iLLind, which was within our reach. With this view, I fent l the the Matter in a boat, to found the coaft ; to look out for a '~yS- 1 January. landing-place ; and, if he Ihould find one, to examine if ^—*——4 frefli water could be conveniently got in its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his commiflion, we followed, under an eafy fail, with the fhips. As foon as we were abreaft, or to the Weftward of the South Point of Oneeheow, we found thirty, twenty-five, and twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of coral fand, a mile from the fhore. At ten o'clock, the Mafter returned, and reported, that he had landed in one place, but could find no frefli water; and that there was anchorage all along the coaft. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward ; and fome of the iflanders,. "who had come off to the fhips, informing us, that frefli water might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor before it, in twenty-fix fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile from the fhore. The South Eaft point of the ifland bore-South, 650 Eaft, three miles diflant; the other extreme of the ifland bore North by Ead, about two or three miles diflant; a peaked hill, inland, North Eaft, a quarter Eaft ; and another ifland, called Tahoora, which was difcovered the preceding evening, bore South, 6i° Weft, diflant feven leagues. Six or feven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing fome fmall pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The people in them rcfembled thofe of Atooi; and feemed to be equally, well acquainted with the ufe of iron, which they afked for alfo by the names of hamaite Tundtoc \ parting readily with all their commodities for pieces of this precious metal.. Several more canoes foon reached the fhips, alter they had anchored ; but the natives in thefe feemed to have no other object, than to pay us i us a formal viiir. Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and not quitting that humble pollurc, till they were defired to get up. They had brought feveral females with them, who remained along fide in the canoes, behaving with far lefs modclly than their countrywomen of Atooi; and, at times, all joining in a long, not remarkable for its melody, though performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon their breaits with their hands. The men who had come on board did not uay long; and before they departed, fome of them requeued our pcrmiflion to lay down, on the deck, locks of their hair. Thefe vifiters furnifhed us with an opportunity of agitating again, this day, the curious inquiry, whether they were cannibals ; and the fubjed did not take its rife from any queftions of ours, but from a circumflance that feemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the iflandcrs, who wanted to get in at the gun-room port, was refufed ; and, at the fame time, allied, whether, if he fhould come in, we would kill and eat him ? accompanying this qucllion with figns fo ex-prcfhvc, that there could be no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening to retort the queflion as to this practice; and a perfon behind the other, in the canoe, who paid great attention to what was palling, immediately anfwered, that if wc were killed on more, they would certainly cat us. He fpoke with fo little emotion, that it appeared plainly to be his meaning, that they would not de-flroy us for that purpofe ; but that their eating us would be the confequence of our being at enmity with them. I have availed myfelf of Mr. Andcrfon's collections for the decifion of this matter; and am forry to fay, that I cannot fee the leafl reafon to hefitate in pronouncing it to be certain, THE PACIFIC OCEAN, it] tain, ihfrt the horrid banquet of human flefh, is as much l778» . a January. rclifhed here, amidfl plenty, as it is in New Zealand. \—^—t In the afternoon, I fent Lieutenant Gore, with three armed boats, to look for the moft convenient landing-place; and, when on fhore, to fearch for frefli water. In the evening he returned, having landed at the village above mentioned, and acquainted me, that he had been conducted to a well half a mile up the country; but, by his account, the quantity of water it contained was too inconfulcrablc for our purpofe, and the road leading to it exceedingly bad. On the 30th, I fent Mr. Gore afhore again, with a guard Friday^, of mariners, and a party to trade with the natives for re-frefhments. I intended to have followed foon after, and went from the fhip with that defign. But the furf had in-creafed fo much, by this time, that I was fearful, if I got afhore, I fhould not be able to get off again. This really happened to our people who had landed with Mr. Gore, the communication between them and the fhips, by our own boats, being foon flopped. In the evening, they made afignal for the boats, which were fent accordingly; and, not long after, they returned with a few yams and fome fait. A tolerable quantity of both had been procured in the courfe of the day ; but the furf was fo great, that the greatefl part of both thefe articles had been loft in conveying them to the boats. The officer and twenty men, deterred by the danger of coming off, were left afhore all night; and, by this unfortunate circumftancc, the very thing happened, which, as I have already mentioned, I wifhed fo heartily to prevent, and vainly imagined I had effectually guarded againft. The violence of the furf, which our own boats could not act againft, did not hinder the natives from coming off to the i77s- the fhips in their canoes. They brought refrcfhments with y ■ *_j them, which were purchafed, in exchange for nails, and pieces of iron hoops j and I diftributed a good many pieces of ribbon, and fome buttons, as bracelets, amongfl the women in the canoes. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon his breaft, and upon thofe of others were the figures of men badly imitated. Thefe vifrtcrs informed us, that there was no Chief, or Hairee, of this ifland; but that it was fubjecT to Tcneooneoo, a Chief of Atooi; which ifland, they faid, was not governed by a fingle Chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of moet or proflration ; and, amongfl others, they named Otaeaio and Terarotoa. Among other things, which thefe people now brought off, was a fmall drum, almofl like thofe of Otaheite. About ten or eleven o'clock at night, the wind veered to the South, and the fky feemed to forebode a florm. With fuch appearances, thinking that we were rather too near the fhore, I ordered the anchors to be taken up, and, having carried the fhips into forty-two fathoms, came to again in that fafer flaiion. The precaution, however, proved to be unnecefTary ; for the wind, foon after, veered to North North - Eafl, from which quarter it blew a frefh gale, with fqualls, attended with very heavy fhowcrs of rain. faturdiy w. This weather continued all the next day; and the fea ran fo high, that we had no manner of communication with our party on fhore; and even the natives themfelvcs durft not venture out to the (hips in their canoes. In the evening, 1 fent the matter in a boat up to the South Eafl head, or point of the ifland, to try if lie could land under it. He returned with a favourable report; but it was too late, now, to fend fend for our party till the next morning ; and thus they had *77*. 1 J . January. another night to improve their intercourfe with the na- t^-v~/ tives. Encouraged by the mailer's report, I fent a boat to the February. South Eaft point, as foon as day-light returned, with an or- Sunday l" der to Mr. Gore, that, if he could not embark his people from the fpot where they now were, to march them iip to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, one of the crew fwam afhore, and carried the order. On the return of the boat, I went myfelf with the pinnace and launch up to the point, to bring the party on board ; taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, a boar and fow pig of the Englifh breed ; and the feeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions; being very delirous of benefiting thefe poor people, by fur-nifhing them with fome additional articles of food. I landed with the greatefl cafe, under the Weft fide of the point, and found my party already there, with fome of the natives in company. To one of them, whom Mr. Gore had obfcivcd afluming fome command over the reft, I gave the goats, pigs, and feeds. I fhould have left thefe well-intended prefents at Atooi, had we not been fo unexpectedly driven from it. While the people were engaged in filling four water-cafks, from a fmall ftream occafionccl by the late rain, I walked a little way up the country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two others carrying the two pigs. As-foon as we got upon a rifing ground, I flopped to look round me ; and obferved a woman, on the oppolite fide of the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who attended me. Upon this, the Chief began to mutter fomething which I fup-pofed was a prayer; and the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk round me all the time, making, at lcaft, Vol. II. F f a dozen a dozen circuits before the other had finifhed his oraifon. :bruary, ——» This ceremony being performed, we proceeded ; and, presently, met people coming from ail parts, who, on being called to by my attendants, threw themfelvcs prollrate on their faces, till I was out of fight. The ground, through which I palled, was in a ftate of nature, very ftony, and the foil feemed poor. It was, however, covered with Ihrubs and plants, fome of which perfumed the air, with a more delicious fragrancy than I had met with at any other of the illands vifited by us in this ocean. Our people, who had been obliged to remain fo long on ihorc, gave me the fame account of thofe parts of the ifland which they had rraverfed. They met with feveral fait ponds, fome of which had a little water remaining, but others had none; and the fait that was left in them was fo thin, that no great quantity could have been procured. There was no appearance of any running ftream ; and though they found fome fmall wells, in which the frefh water was tolerably good, it feemed fcarce. The habitations of the natives were thinly fcattered about and it was fuppofed, that there could not be more than five hundred people upon the iiland, as the greatefl part were feen at the marketing-place of our party, and few found about the houfes by thofe who walked up the country. They had an opportunity of obferving the method of living amongft the natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did not, however, fee any inftance of the men and women eating together; and the latter feemed generally affociated in companies by themfelves. It was found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the dooe dooe for lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked their hogs in ovens; but, contrary to the practice of the Society and Friendly Illands, fplit the carcafes through their whole whole length. They met with a pofitive proof of the exiftencc p^*;. of the taboo (or as they pronounce it the tafoo), for one woman v——-* fed another who was under that interdiction. They alfo obferved fome other myfterious ceremonies; one of which was performed by a woman, who took a fmall pig, and threw it into the furf, till it was drowned, and then tied up a bundle of wood, which fhe alfo difpofed of in the fame manner. The fame woman, at another time, beat with a flick upon a man's moulders, who fat down for that pur-pofe. A particular veneration feemed to be paid here to owls, which they have very tame ; and it was obferved to be a pretty general practice, amongfl them, to pull out one of their teeth*; for which odd cuflom, when afked the rea-fon, the only anfwer that could be got was, that it was teeha% which was alfo the reafon affigncd for another of their practices, the giving a lock of their hair. After the water-cafks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and we had purchafed from the natives a few roots, a little fait, and fome falted fifh, I returned on board with all the people, intending to vifit the ifland the next day. But, about feven o'clock in the evening, the anchor of the Refolution flarted, and fhe drove off the bank. As we had a whole cable out, it was fome time before the anchor was at the bows ; and then we had the launch to hoifl up along-fide, before we could make fail. By this unlucky accident, we found ourfelves, at day-break next morning, three, leagues to the leeward of our laft flation; Monday*; and forefeeing that it would require more time to recover * ft is very remarkable, that, in this cuftorn, which one would" think is To unnatural, as not to be adopted by two different tribes, originally unconnected, the people of this ifland, and Dampier's natives on the Weft fide of New Holland, at fuch an immenfe ■diftance, fhould be found to agree. Ff 2 it _ "778. it than I chofe to fpend, I made the fignal for the Difcovery rebruary. * *a Ui-i^-j to weigh and join us. This was done about noon ; and wc immediately flood away to the Northward, in profecution of our voyage. Thus, after fpending more time about thefe iflands, than was neceffary to have anfwered all our pur-pofes, we were obliged to leave them before we had completed our water, and got from them fuch a quantity of refreshments as their inhabitants were both able and willing to have fupplied us with. But, as it was, our fhip procured from them provifions, fufficient for three weeks at leaf!; and Captain Clerke, more fortunate than us, got, of their vegetable productions, a fupply that laflcd his people upward of two months. The obfervations I was enabled to make, combined with thofe of Mr. Anderfon, who was a very ufeful afTiftant on all fuch occafions, will furnifh materials for the next chapter. , CHAP. C FI A P. XI. The Situation of the Ifands now difcovered.—Their Names*. —Called the Sandwich Ifands..—Atooi defcribed.—Tide Soil.—Climate.—Vegetable Produtlions.—Birds.—Fijh, —Domefic Animals.—Perfons of the Inhabitants.—Their Difpoftion,—Drefs.—Ornaments.—Habitations.—Food* —Cookery.—Amufeme?tts, — Manufactures.—Worki tig-tools.—Knowledge of Iron accounted for.—Canoes.—• Agriculture.—Account of one of their Chiefs.—Weapons.—Cufoms agreeing with thofe of Tongataboo and Otaheite.—Their Language the fa?ne.—Extetit of this Nation throughout the Pacifc Ocean.—-Refeclions on the iiflful Situation of the Sandwich Ifands. "I T is worthy of obfervation, that the iflands in the Pa--l cific Ocean, which our late voyages have added to the geography of the globe, have been generally found lying in groups or clutters ; the fingle intermediate illands, as yet difcovered, being few in proportion to the others; though, probably, there are many more of them nil! unknown, which fcrve as Heps between the feveral cluflers. Of what number this newly-difcovered Archipelago confifts, mull be left for future invelligation. We faw five of them, whofe names, as given to us by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Orechoua, and Tahoora, The lailis a fmall elevated ifland, lying four or five leagues from the South Eafl point of Onee- heow>- 1778. heow, in the direction of South, 69* Weft. We were told, February. • '"'«.•'» 1 • i • 1 • 1 , • i—-v-' that it abounds with birds, which are its only inhabitants. We alfo got fome information of the exiftence of a low uninhabited ifland in the neighbourhood, whofe name is Tammata pappa. Befides thefe fix, which we can diftinguifli by their names, it appeared, that the inhabitants of thofe with whom we had intercourfe, were acquainted with fome other iflands both to the Eaftward and Weftward. I named the whole group the Sandwich Iflands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Thofe that I faw, are fitua'tcd between the latitude of 210 30', and 220 15' North, and between the longitude of 1990 qo', and 2ci° 30' Eaft. Of Woahoo, the moft Eafterly of thefe iflands, feen by us, which lies in the latitude of 210 36', we could get no other intelligence, but that it is high land, and is inhabited. We had opportunities of knowing fome particulars about Oneeheow, which have been mentioned already. It lies feven leagues to the Weftward of our anchoring-placc at Atooi; and is not above fifteen leagues in circuit. Its chief vegetable produce is yams; if we may judge from what was brought to us by the natives. They have fait, which they call patai; and is produced in fait ponds. With it they cure both fifh and pork ; and fome fait fifh, which we got from them, kept very well, and were found to be very good. This ifland is moftly low land, except the part facing Atooi, which rifes directly from the fea to a good height; as does alfo the South Eaft point of it, which terminates in a round hill. It was on the Weft fide of this point where our fhips anchored. Of Oreehoua we know nothing more than that it is a fmall elevated ifland, lying clofe to the North fide of Oneeheow. Atooi, Atooi, which is the largeft, being the principal fcenc of our operations, I ihall now proceed to lay before my readers what information I was able to collect about it, either from actual obfervation, while on fhore, or from converfation with its inhabitants, who were perpetually on board the fhips while we lay at anchor; and who, in general, could be tolerably well underftood, by thofe of us who had acquired an acquaintance with the dialects of the South Pacific Iflands. It is, however, to be regretted, that we fhould have been obliged, fo foon, to leave a place, which, as far as our opportunities of knowing reached, feemed to be highly worthy of a more accurate examination. Atooi, from what we faw of it, is, at leaft, ten leagues in length from Eaft to Weft ; from whence its circuit may nearly be guefTed, though it appears to be much broader at the Eaft than at the Weft point, if we may judge from the double range of hills which appeared there. The road, or anchoring-place, which we occupied, is on the South Weft fide of the ifland, about fix miles from the Weft end, before a village which has the name of Wymoi. As far as we founded, we found, that the bank has a fine grey fand' at the bottom, and is free from rocks ; except a little to the Eaftward of the village, where there fpits out a fhoal, on which are fome rocks and breakers ; but they are not far from the fhore. This road would be entirely fheltered from the trade wind, if the height of the land, over which it blows, did not alter its direction, and make it follow that of the coaft ; fo that it blows at North Eaft, on one fide of the ifland, and at Eaft South Eaft, or South Eafl, on the other,, falling obliquely upon the more. Thus the road, though fituated on the lee fide of the ifland, is a little expofed to the trade wind; but, notwithstanding this defect, is far from 4 being being a bad ftation, and much fuperior to thofe which ne-cefllty obliges fhips daily to ufe, in regions where the winds are both more variable and more boifterous ; as at TeneriiTe, Madeira, the Azores, and elfewhcrc. The landing too is more eafy than at mofl: of thofe places ; and, unlefs in very bad weather, always practicable. The water to be got in the neighbourhood is excellent, and eafy to be conveyed to the boats. But no wood can be cut at any didance, convenient enough to bring it from, unlefs the natives could be prevailed upon to part with the few ctooa trees (for fo they call the cordia febajlina), that grow about their villages, or a fort called dooe dooef that grow farther up the country. The land, as to its general appearance, does not, in the lead, refcmble any of the idands we have hitherto vifited within the tropic, on the fouth fide of the equator ; if we except its hills near the centre, which are high, but dope gently to the fea, or lower lands. Though it be dcilitute of the delightful borders of Otaheite, and of the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once afford a friendly Inciter from the fcorching fun, and an enchanting profpecl; to the eye, and food for the natives, which may be truly faid to drop from the trees into their mouths, without the laborious tafk of rearing; though, 1 fay, Atooi be deditute of thefe advantages, its polfeding a greater quantity of gently-rifing land, renders it, in fome meafure, fuperior to the above favourite idands, as being more capable of improvement. The height of the land within, the quantity of clouds which we faw, during the whole time we flaid, hanging over it, and frequently on the other parts, feems to put it beyond all doubt, that there is a fuflicient fupply of water; and 3 that THE PACIFIC OCEAN. in their formation ; and and I may fay, that, with a very few exceptions, they have little claim to thofe peculiarities that diftinguifh the fex, in other countries. There is, indeed, a more remarkable equality in the fize, colour, and figure of both fexes, than in mofl places I have vifited. However, upon the whole, they are far from being ugly, and appear to have few natural deformities of any kind. Their fkin is not very 10ft, nor mining; perhaps for want of oiling, which is practifed at the Southern iflands; but their eyes and teeth arc, in general, very tolerable. The hair, for the greatefl part, is flraight, though, in fome, frizzling; and though its natural colour be, commonly, black, it is flained, as at the Friendly and other iflands. We faw but few inftances of corpulence; and thefe oftener amongfl the women than the men; but it was chiefly amongfl the latter that perfonal defects were obferved, though, if any of them can claim a fhare of beauty, it was mofl confpicuous amongfl the young men. They are vigorous, active, and moft expert fwimmers °9 leaving their canoes upon the mofl trifling occafion ; diving under them; and fwimming to others though at a great diflance. It was very common to fee women, with infants at the breafl, when the furf was fo high, that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and without endangering their little ones, fvvim to the more, through a fea that looked dreadful. They feem to be blcft with a frank, cheerful difpofltion j and were I to draw any comparifons, fhould fay, that they are equally free from the fickle levity which diflinguiflies the natives of Otaheite, and the fedate eafl obfervable amongfl many of thofe of Tongataboo. They feem to live very fociably in their intercourfe with one another; and, except except the propenfity to thieving, which feems innate in moft of the people we have vifited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly to us. And it does their fenfibility no little credit, without flattering ourfelves, that when they faw the various articles of our European manufacture, they could not help expreffing their furprize, by a mixture of joy and concern, that feemed to apply the cafe, as a leffon of humility to themfelvcs ; and, on all occafions, they appeared deeply impreffed with a confeioufnefs of their own inferiority; a behaviour which equally exempts their national character from the prepofterous pride of the more polifhed Japancfc, and of the ruder Grcenlarider. It was a pleafure to obferve with how much affection the women managed their infants, and how readily the men lent their aililtance to fuch a tender office; thus fufficiently diflin-guifhing themfelves from thofe ravages, who efteem a wife and child as things rather neceffary, than dciirablc, or worthy of their notice. from the numbers which we faw collected at every village, as we failed paft, it may be fuppofed, that the inhabitants of this ifland are pretty numerous. Any computation, that we make, can be only conjectural. But, that fome notion may be formed, which mall not greatly err on either fide, I would fuppofe, that, including the draggling houfes, there might be, upon the whole ifland, fixty fuch villages, as that before which we anchored ; and that, allowing five perfons to each houfe, there would be, in every village, five hundred; or thirty thoufand upon the ifland. This number is, certainly, not exaggerated ; for we had fometimes three thoufand perfons, at leaf!, upon the beach ; when it could not be fuppofed, that above a tenth part of the inhabitants were prefent. The The common drefs, both of the women and of the men, '778. rcbruary. has been already defcribed. The firft have often much w-—»-* larger pieces of cloth wrapped round them, reaching from jult below the breafts to the hams, or lower; and feveral were feen with pieces thrown loofely about the moulders, which covered the greateft part of the body; but the children, when very young, are quite naked. They wear nothing upon the head \ but the hair, in both fexes, is cut in different forms ; and the general fafhion, cfpecially among the women, is, to have it long before, and fhort behind. The men often had it cut, or fhaved, on each fide, in fuch a manner, that the remaining part, in fome meafure, re-fembles the creft of their caps or helmets, formerly defcribed. Both fexes, however, feem very carelefs about their hair, and have nothing like combs to drefs it with. Inftances of wearing it, in a lingular manner, were fometimes met with among the men, who twift it into a number of fe pa rare parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about the thicknefs of a finger ; though the greateft part of thefe, which are fo long that they reach far down the back, we obferved, were artificially fixed upon the head, over their own hair*. It is remarkable, that, contrary to the general practice of the iflands we had hitherto difcovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Illands have not their ears perforated ; nor have they the leaft idea of wearing ornaments in them. Both fexes, neverthelefs, adorn themfelves with necklaces made of bunches of fmall black cord, like our * The print of Horn Ifland, which wc meet with in Mr. Dalrymplc's account of Lc Maire and Schoutcn's voyage, reprefents foine of the natives of that ifland with-fuch long tails, han:rin«; from their heads, as are here defcribed. See Da.'rymple's Voyages to the South Pacifie^ Vol, ii. p. 58. hat- FebVuty h^t-ftring, often above a hundred-fold; exacTly like thofe *—* of Wateeoo; only, that, inftead of the two little balls, on the middle before, they fix a fmall bit of wood, flone, or fhell, about two inches long, with a broad hook, turning forward at its lower part, well polifhed. They have, like-wife, necklaces of many firings of very fmall fhells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And, fometimes, a fmall human image of bone, about three inches long, neatly polifhed, is hung round the neck. The women alfo wear bracelets of a fingle fhell, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interfperfed, and well polifhed, fixed by a firing drawn very clofely through them; or others of hogs teeth, laid parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut off, faflened together as the former j fome of which, made only of large boars' tufks, are very elegant*. The men, fometimes, wear plumes of the tropic birds feathers, fluck in their heads; or thofe of cocks, fattened round neat polifhed flicks, two feet long, commonly decorated, at the lower part, with oora ; and, for the fame purpofe, the fkin of a white dog's tail is fewed over a flick, with its tuft at the end. They alfo, frequently, wear on the head a kind of ornament, of a finger's thicknefs, or more, covered with red and yellow feathers, curioufly varied, and tied behind; and on the arm, above the elbow, a a kind of broad fhell-work, grounded upon net-work. The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particular part, as the Otaheiteans, and thofe of Tongataboo. Sometimes there are a few marks upon their hands, or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we could obferve none at all; though a few individuals had more of this fort * Sec Plate, N LXVII. + of of ornament, than we had ufually feen at other places, and B ">7?- , . reoniary. ingemoufly executed in a great variety of lines and figures, *—-v~— on the arms and fore-part of the body •, on which latter, fome of them had the figure of the t&ame, or bread-plate, of Otaheite, though we did not meet with the thing itfelf amongd them. Contrary to the cudom of the Society and Ftiendly Idands, they do not dit, or cut off, part of the prepuce; but have it, univerfally, drawn over the glam, and tied with a dring, as practifed by fome of the natives of New Zealand. Though they feem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, there is no appearance of defence, or fortification, near any of them ; and the houfes are fcattered about, without any order, either with refpect to their didances from each other, or their pofition in any particular direetion. Neither is there any proportion as to their fize ; fome being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty or thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their figure is not unlike oblong corn, or hay-dacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may be conceived of them, if we fuppofe the roof of a barn placed on the ground, in fuch a manner, as to form a high, acute ridge, with two very low fides, hardly difcernible at a didance. The gable, at each end, correfponding to the fides, makes thefe habitations perfectly clofe all round; and they are well thatched with long grafs, which is laid on dender poles, difpofed with fome regularity. The entrance is made indifferently in the end or fide, and is an oblong hole, fo low, that one mufl rather creep than walk in; and is often fliut up by a board of planks, fadencd together, which ferves as a door, but having no hinges, mud be removed occafionally. No light enters the houfe, but by this opening; and though fuch Vol. II, Ii h clofe s „ \77%- clofe habitations may afTord a comfortable retreat in bad rebruary. ^ * v--»---> weather, they feem but ill-adapted to the warmth of the climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean and their floors are covered with a large quantity of dried grafs, over which they fpread mats to fit and fleep upon. At one end ftands a kind of bench, about three feet high, on which their houfehold utenfils are placed. The catalogue is not long. It confifts of gourd-fhells, which they convert into veffels that ferve as bottles to hold water, and as bafkets to contain their victuals, and other things, with covers of the fame j and of a few wooden bowls and trenchers, of different fizes. Judging from what we faw growing, and from what was brought to market, there can be no doubt, that the greateft part of their vegetable food confifts of fweet potatoes, taro, and plantains; and that bread-fruit and yams are rather to be efteemed rarities. Of animal food, they can be in no want; as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without reftraint, about the houfes ; and if they cat dogs, which is not improbable, their flock of thefe feemed to be very confiderable. The great number of fifhing-hooks found amongfl them, fhewed, that they derive no inconfidcrable fupply of animal food from the fea. But it mould feem, from their practice of falting fifh, that the opennefs of their coaft often interrupts the bufmefs of catching them ; as it may be naturally fuppofed, that no fet of people would ever think of preferving quantities of food artificially, if they could depend upon a daily, regular fupply of it, in its frefh ftate. This fort of rea(oning, however, will not account for their cuftorn of • fahing their pork, as well as their fifh, which arc preferved in gourd-fhells. The fait, of which they ufe a great quantity for this purpofc, is of a red colour, not very coarfe, and feems to be much the fame with what our ftragglcrs found i at at Chridmas Iiland. It has its colour, doubtlcfs, from a mix- rebruaiy. ture of the mud, at the bottom of the part where it is '-•- formed; for fome of ir, that had adhered in lumps, was of a fufficient whitenefs and purity. They bake their vegetable food with heated flones, as at the Southern Illands; and, from the vail quantity which we faw drefled at one time, wc fufpccTed, that the whole village, or, at lead, a confiderable number of people, joined in the ufe of a common oven. Wc did not fee them drefs any animal food at this iiland; but Mr. Gore's party, as already mentioned, had an opportunity of fatisfying them-felves, that it was dreffed in Oneeheow in die fame fort of ovens; which leaves no doubt of this being alfo the practice in Atooi; efpecially as we met with no utcnfil there, that could be applied to the purpofe of flewing or boiling. The only artificial diffi we met with, was a taro pudding; which, though a difagreeable mefs from its fournefs, was greedily devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates, or trenchers; and the women, as far as we could judge from one inftance, if rcftrained from feeding at the fame dim with the men, as at Otaheite, are, at lead, permitted to cat in the fame place near them. Their amufements feem pretty various ; for, during our fhort day, feveral were difcovered. The dances, at which they ufe the feathered cloaks and caps, were not fecn ; but from the motions which they made with their hands, on other occafions, when they fung, we could form fome judgment that they arc, in fome degree at lead, fimilar to thofe wc. had met With at the Southern Idands, though not executed fo fldlfully. Neither had they, amongfl them, either flutes or reeds j and the only two mufical indruments II h 3 which 1778- which we obferved, were of an exceedingly rude kind. One February. 0 ' 1-^—-> of them does not produce a melody exceeding that of a child's rattle. It confifls of what may be called a conic cap inverted, but fcarcely hollowed at the bafe above a foot high, made of a coarfe, fedge-like plant j the upper part of which, and the edges, are ornamented with beautiful red feathers ; and to the point, or lower part, is fixed a gourd-jfhell, larger than the fifh Into this is put fomething to rattle ; which is done by holding the inflrument by the fmall part, and making, or rather moving it, from place to place brifkly, either to different fides, or backward and forward, juft before the face, flriking the breaft with the other hand at the fame time*. The other mufical inflrument (if either of them deferve that name) was a hollow veiled of wood, like a platter, combined with the ufe of two flicks, on which one of our gentlemen faw a man performing. He held one of the flicks, about two feet long, as we do a fiddle, with one hand, and flruck it with the other, which was fmallcr, and refembied a drum-flick, in a quicker or flower meafure ; at the fame time beating with his foot upon the hollow veffel, that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune, that was by no means difagrce.-ab!e. This mufic was accompanied by the vocal performance of fome women, whole fong had a plcafing and tender effect. We obferved great numbers of fmall polifhed rods, about four or five feet long, fomewhat thicker than the rammer of a mufquct, with a tuft of long, white dog's hair fixed on the fmall end. Thefe are, probably, ufed in their divert fions. We faw a perfon take one of them in his hand, and, * See Plate, N° LXVII. 6 holding THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 237 holding it up, give a fmart ftroke, till he brought it into an w 1 ° February. horizontal pofition, flriking with the foot, on the fame fide, i— upon the ground, and, with his other hand, beating his bread at the fame time. They play at bowls, with pieces of the whetdone mentioned before, of about a pound weight, fhaped fomcwhat like a fmall cheefe, but- rounded at the fides and edges, which are very nicely polilhed ; and they have other bowls of the fame fort, made of a heavy, red-difh brown clay, neatly glazed over with a compoiition of the fame colour, or of a coarfe, dark grey date. They alfo ufe, in the manner that we throw quoits, fmall, dat, rounded pieces of the writing date, of the diameter of the bowls, but fcarcely a quarter of an inch thick, alio well polifhed. From thefe circumdances, one would be induced to think, that their games are rather trials of fkill than of ftrengtlv In every thing manufactured by thefe people, there appears to be an uncommon degree of neatnefs and ingenuity. Their cloth, which is the principal manufacture, is made from the morns papyrifera; and, doubtlefs, in the fame manner as at Otaheite and Tongataboo; for wc bought fome of the grooved dicks, with which it is beaten. Its texture, how- -ever, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the cloth of either of the other places; but, in colouring or daining it, the people of Atooi difplay a fuperiority of taite, by the endlcfs • variation of figures which they execute. One would fuppofe, on feeing a number of their pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from fome mercer's fliop, in which the mod elegant productions-of China and Europe are collected; . befides fome original patterns of their own. Their colours, indeed, except the red, are not very bright; but the regularity of the figures and dripes is truly fuprizing ; for, as far as wc knew, they have, nothing like damps or prints, io■. make 1778. make the impreffions. In what manner they produce their —v—colours, we had not opportunities of learning) but befides the party-coloured forts, they have fome pieces of plain white cloth, and others of a angle colour, particularly dark brown and light blue. In general, the pieces which they brought to us, were about two feet broad, and four or five yards long, being the form and quantity that they ufe for their common drefs, or maro; and even thefe we fometimes found were compofed of pieces fewed together; an art which we did not find to the Southward, but is ftrongly, though not very neatly, performed here. There is alfo a particular fort that is thin, much rcfembling oil-cloth ; and which is actually either oiled or foaked in fome kind of varnifh, and feems to refill the action of water pretty well. They fabricate a great many white mats, which are flrong, with many red ltripes, rhombufes, and other figures interwoven on one fide; and often pretty large. Thefe, probably, make a part of their drefs occafionally ; for they put them on their backs when they offered them to fale. But they make others coarfer, plain and flrong, which they fpread ovel their floors to flcep upon. They Main their gourd-fliells prettily with undulated lines, triangles, and other figures of a black colour; inflanccs of ■which we faw practifed at New Zealand. And they feem to polfefs the art of varniihing ; for fome of thefe flained gourd-fhells are covered with a kind of lacker; and on other occafions, they ufe a flrong fize, or gluey fubffance, to fallen their things together. Their wooden difhes and bowls, out of which they drink their ava, are of the ctooa-tree, or cordia, as neat, as if made in our turning-lathe, and perhaps perhaps better polifhed. And amongfl their articles of •t t r r i ' Februur handifcraft, may be reckoned fmall fquare fans of mat »--^— or wicker-work, with handles tapering from them of the fame, or of wood ; which are neatly wrought with fmali cords of hair, and fibres of the. cocoa-nut coir, intermixed. The great variety of fifhing-hooks are ingenioufly made ; fome of bone, others of wood pointed with bone, and many of pearl fhell. Of the lafl, fome are like a fort that we faw at Tongataboo; and others fimply curved, as the common fort at Otaheite, as well as the wooden ones. The bones are motlly fmali, and compofed of two pieces; and all the different forts have a barb, cither on the infide, like ours, or on the outfide, oppofite the fame part; but others have both, the outer one being farthefl from the point. Of this laft fort, one was procured, nine inches long, of afingle piece of bone, which, doubtlefs, belonged to fome large fifh. The elegant form and polifh of this could nor, certainly, be outdone by any European artift, even if he fhould add all his knowledge in defign, to the number and convenience of his tools. They polifh their ftones, by conftant friction, with pumice-ftone in water; and fuch of their working inftruments, or tools, as I faw, refcmbled thofe of the Southern Iflands, Their hatchets, or rather adzes, were exactly of the fame pattern, and either made of the fame fort of blackifh flone, or of a clay-coloured one. They have alfo little inftruments made of a fingle mark's tooth, fome of which are fixed to the forepart of a dog's jawbone, and others to a thin wooden handle of the fame fhape; and at the other end there is a bit of firing fattened through a fmall perforation. Thefe fcrvc as knives oc-cafionally, and are, perhaps, ufed in carving. The The only iron tools, or rather bits of iron, feen amoneft February. ° v-----,-< them, ami which they had before our arrival, were a piece of iron hoop, about two inches long, fitted into a wooden handle and another edge-tool, which our people gucffed to be made of the point of a broad-fword. Their having the actual poifcllion of thefe, and their fo generally knowing the ufe of this metal, inclined fome on board to think, that we had not been the firft European vifiters of thefe iflands. But, it feems to me, that the very great furprize cxprefled by them, on feeing our fhips, and their total ignorance of the ufe of fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with fuch a notion. There are many ways, by which fuch people may get pieces of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the exigence of fuch a metal, without having ever had an immediate connection with nations that ufe ir. It can hardly be doubted, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of this fea, before Magellan led the way into it; for no difco-vercr, immediately after his voyage, ever found any of this metal in their poffeflion ; though, in the courfe of our late voyages, it has been obferved, that the ufe of it was known at feveral iflands, to which no former European fhips had ever, as far as we know, found their way. At all the places where Mendana touched, in his two voyages, it muft have been feen and left; and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt, to all the various iflands wTith which thofe, whom he had vifited, had any immediate intercourfe. It might even be carried farther; and where fpecimens of this favourite article could not be procured, defcriptions might, in fome meafure, ferve to make it known, when afterward feen. The next voyage to the Southward of the line, in * Captain King purchafed this, and has it now in his pofleJiion. which which any intercourfe was had with the natives of this ocean, was that of Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the Iiland of Handfome People, and at Tierra del Efpiritu Santo ; at all which places, and at thofe with whom they had any communication, it mufl, of confequence, have been made known. To him fucceeded, in this navigation, Ec Maire and Schouten, whofe connections with the natives commenced much farther to the Eaftward, and ended at Cocos and Horn Iflands. It was not furprifing, that, when I vifited Tongataboo in 1773) I mould find a bit of iron there, as we knew that Tafman had vifited it before me j but, let us fuppofe, that he had never difcovered the Friendly Iflands, our finding iron amongfl them would have occa-fioned much fpeculation ; though we have mentioned before *, the method by which they had gained a renewal of their knowledge of this metal, which confirms my hypo-thefis. For Nceootaboo taboo, or Bofcawen's Ifland, where Captain Wallis's fhips left it, and from whence Poulaho received it, lies fome degrees to the North Weft of Tonga-taboo. It is well known, that Roggewein lofl one of his fhips on the Pernicious Iflands j which, from their fituation, are, probably, not unknown to, though not frequently vifited by, the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Iflands. It is equally certain, that thefe laft people had a knowledge of iron, and purchafed it with the greateft avidity, when Captain Wallis difcovered Otaheite; and this knowledge could only have been acquired, through the mediation of thofe neighbouring iflands where it had been originally left. Indeed they acknowledge, that this was actually the cafe; and they have told us fince, that they held it in fuch Vol. II. Sec Vol. i. p. 370. I i cflimation, eftimation, before Captain Wallis's arrival, that a Chief of Otaheite, who had got two nails into his poifeflion, received no fmall emolument, by letting out the ufe of thefe to his neighbours, for the purpofe of boring holes, when their own methods failed, or were thought too tedious*. The men of the Society Illands, whom we found atWateeoo, had been driven thither, long after the knowledge and ufe of iron had thus been introduced amongfl their countrymen ; and though, probably, they had no fpecimen of it with them, they would naturally, and with cafe, communicate at that ifland their knowledge of this valuable material, by defcription. From the people of Wateeoo again, thofe of Hervey's Ifland might derive that defire to polfefs fome of it, of which we had proofs during our fhort intercourfe with them. The confideration of thefe facts fufficiently explains how the knowledge of iron has been conveyed throughout this ocean, to iflands which never have had an immediate intercourfe with Europeans ; and it may eafdy be conceived, that wherever the hiftory of it only has been reported, or a very fmall quantity of it has been left, the greater eagernefs will be fhewn by the natives to get copious fupplies of it. The application of thefe particulars, to the inftance now under confideration, is obvious. The people of Atooi and Oneeheow, without having ever been vifited by Europeans before us, might have received it from intermediate iflands, * A (inula* inftance of profitable revenue, drawn from the ufe of nails by the Chiefs of the Caroline Iflands, is mentioned by father Cantova : 44 Si, par hazard, un 44 vaifleau ttranger laifie dans leurs ifles quelques vieux mcrceaux de fer, ils appar-44 ticnnent de droit aux Tamoles, qui en font faire des outils, le mieux qu'il eft pof-44 ftble. Ces outils font un fond dont le Tamole tire un revenu confiderable, car il ** les donne a louage, & ce louage fe paye aflez chere," p. 314. 9 lying lying between them and the Ladrones, which have been „ *7?8* " February. frequented by the Spaniards, almofl: ever fince the date of «—-v— Magellan's voyage. Or, if the diflant Weflern fituation of the Ladrones fhould render this folution lefs probable, is there not the extenfive continent of America to windward, where the Spaniards have been fettled for more than two hundred years; during which long period of time, fhip-wrecks mufl have frequently happened on its coafls? It cannot be thought at all extraordinary, that part of fuch wrecks, containing iron, fhould, by the Eaflerly trade wind, be, from time to time, call upon iflands fcattered about this, vafl ocean. The diflance of Atooi from America, is no argument againft this fuppofition. But even if it were, it would not dcflroy it. This ocean is traverfed every year by Spanifh mips; and it is obvious, that, befides the accident of lofing a mail, and its appendages, cafks with iron hoops, and many other things containing iron, may be thrown, or may fall overboard, during fo long a paffage, and thus find their way to land. But thefe are not mere conjectures and pofhbilities; for one of my people actually did fee fome wood in one of the houfes at Wymoa, which he judged to be fir. It was worm-eaten, and the natives gave himtoun-derfland, that it had been driven afhore by the waves of the fea ; and we had their own exprcfs teflimony, that they had got the inconfiderable fpecimens of iron found amongfl them, from fome place to the Eafl ward. From this digrefhon (if it can be called fo), I return to the obfervations made during our flay at Atooi; and fome account mufl now be given of their canoes. Thefe, in general, are about twenty-four feet long, and have the bottom, for the mod part, formed of a fingle piece or log of wood, hollowed out to the thicknefs of an inch, or an inch and an I i 2 half, jpr" half, and brought to a point at each end. The (ides confifl February. ° * —*~-*/ of three boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly fitted and lafhed to the bottom part. The extremities, both at head and ftern, are a little raifed, and both are made fharp, fomewhat like a wedge; but they flatten more abruptly j fo that the two fide-boards join each other, fide by fide, for more than a foot. But Mr. Webber's drawing will explain their conflruclion more accurately than my defcription in words. As they are not more than fifteen or eighteen inches broad, thofe that go fingle (for they fometimes join them as at the other idands), have out-riggers, which are fhaped and fitted with more judgment than any I had before feen. They are rowed by paddles, fuch as we had generally met with; and fome of them have a light triangular fail, like thofe of the Friendly Iflands, extended to a mall and boom. The ropes ufed for their boats, and the fmaller cords for their fithing-tackle, are flrong and well made. What we faw of their agriculture, furnifhed fufficicnt proofs that they are not novices in that art. The vale ground has already been mentioned as one continued plantation of taro, and a few other things, which have all the appearance of being well attended to. The potatoe fields, and fpots of fugar-cane, or plantains, on the higher grounds, are planted with the fame regularity; and always in fome determinate figure ; generally as a fquare or oblong ; but neither thefe, nor the others, are inclofed with any kind of fence, unlefs we reckon the ditches in the low grounds fuch -r which, it is more probable, are intended to convey water to the taro. The great quantity and goodnefs of thefe articles may alfo, perhaps, be as much attributed to fkilful culture, as to natural fertility of foil, which feems better -adapted adapted to them than to bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees; '778-the few which we faw of thefe latter not being in a thriv- ^°J^!2l/ ing flate, which will fufficiently account for the preference given to the culture of the other articles, though more labour be required to produce them. But notwithstanding this fkill in agriculture, the general appearance of the ifland Hie wed, that it was capable of much more extenfive improvement, and of maintaining, at leaf!, three times the number of the inhabitants that are at prefent upon it; for the far greater part of it, that now lies quite wafle, feemed to be as good a foil as thofe parts of it that are in cultivation. Wc mud therefore conclude, that thefe people, from fome caufe, which we were not long enough amongfl them to be able to trace, do not incrcafe in that proportion, which would make it neceffary to avail themfelvcs of the extent of their ifland, toward raifing a greater quantity of its vegetable productions for their fubfiflence. Though I did not fee a Chief of any note, there were, however, feveral, as the natives informed us, who refide upon Atooi, and to whom they proflrate themfelves as a mark of fubmifllon; which feems equivalent to the moe, moea, paid to the Chiefs of the Friendly Iflands, and is called here hamoca or moe. Whether they wTerc, at firft, afraid to fiiew themfelves, or happened to be abfent, I cannot fay; but after I had left the ifland, one of thefe great men made his appearance, and paid a vifit to Captain Clerke on board the Difcovery. He came off in a double canoe; and, like the king of the Friendly Iflands, paid no regard to the fmall canoes that happened to lie in his way, but ran againtt, or over them, without endeavouring, in the leafl, to avoid them. And it was not poflible for thefe poor people to avoid him, for they could not manage their canoes; it being a neceiTiry mark mark of their fubmiffion, that they fhould lie down till he had palled. His attendants helped him into the fhip, and placed him on the gang-way. Their care of him did not ceafe then ; for they flood round him, holding each other by the hands ; nor would they fufFcr any one to come near him but Captain Clerke himfelf. He was a young man, clothed from head to foot; and accompanied by a young woman, fuppofed to be his wife. His name was raid to be Tamahano. Captain Clerke made him fome fuitable prefents ; and received from him, in return, a large bowl, fupported by two figures of men, the carving of which, both as to the defign and the execution, fhewed fome degree of fkill. This bowl, as our people were told, ufed to be filled with the kava, or ava (as it is called at Otaheite), which liquor they prepare and drink here, as at the other iflands in this ocean. Captain Clerke could not prevail upon this great man to go below, nor to move from the place where his attendants had firfl fixed him. After flaying fome time in the fhip, he was carried again into his canoe, and returned to the ifland, receiving the fame honours from all the natives, as when he came on board. The next day, feveral meffages were fent to Captain Clerke, inviting him to return the vifit afhore, and acquainting him, that the Chief had prepared a large prefent on that occafion. But being anxious to get to fea, and join the Rcfolution, the Captain did not think it advifeable to accept of the invitation. The very fliort and imperfect intercourfe which we had with the natives, put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the mode of government cflablifhed amongfl them; but, from the general refemblance of cuftoms, and particularly from what we obferved of the honours paid to their Chiefs, it feems reafonable to believe, that that it is of the fame nature with that which prevails '778* * February. throughout all the iflands we had hitherto vifited >t and, ^——' probably, their wars amongfl themfelves are equally frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred from the number of weapons which wc found them poffeffed of, and from the excellent order thefe were kept in. But we had direct proof of the fact from their own confeflion; and, as we underftood, thefe wars are between the different diftricts of their own ifland, as well as between it and their neighbours of Oneeheow and Orrehoua. We need fcarcely affign any other caufe befides this, to account for the appearance, already mentioned, of their population bearing no proportion to the extent of their ground capable of cultivation. Befides their fpears or lances, made of a fine chefnut-coloured wood, beautifully polifhed, fome of which arc barbed at one end, and flattened to a point at the other, they have a fort of weapon which we had never feen before, and not mentioned by any navigator, as ufed by the natives of the South Sea. It is fomewhat like a dagger ; in general, about a foot and a half long, fharpencd at one or both ends, and fecured to the hand by a firing. Its ufe is to flab in clofe fight; and it feems well adapted to the pur-pofe. Some of thefe may be called double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with which they are better enabled to ftrike different ways. They have alfo bows and arrows; but, both from their apparent fcarcity, and their flender make, it may almofl be prcfumed that they never ufe them in battle. The knife or faw, formerly mentioned, with wThich they difFect the dead bodies, may alfo be ranked amongfl their weapons, as they both ftrike and cut with it, when clofely engaged. It is a fmall flat wooden inflrument, of an oblong fliape, about a foot long, rounded at the corners, corners, with a'handle, almofl like one fort of the patoos of New Zealand; but its edges are entirely furrounded with marks1 teeth ftrongly fixed to it, and pointing outward ; having commonly a hole in the handle, through which pafles a long firing, which is wrapped feveral times round the wrift. We alfo fufpecTed that they ufe flings on fome occafions ; for we got fome pieces of the hematites, or blood-ftone, artificially made of an oval fhape, divided longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex parr. To this the perfon, who had one of them, applied a cord of no great thicknefs, but would not part with it, though he had no objection to part with the ftone, which mufl prove fatal when thrown with any force, as it weighed a pound. We like wife faw fome oval pieces of whetftone well polifhed, but fomewhat pointed toward each end, nearly refembling in fhape fome ftones which we had feen at New Caledonia in 1774, and ufed there in their flings. What we could learn of their religious inflitutions, and the manner of difpofing of their dead, which may, properly, be confidered as clofely connected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more ftrongly points out the affinity between the manners of thefe people and of the Friendly and Society Iflands, I mufl juft mention fome other circumftances to place this in a flrong point of view ; and, at the fame time, to mew how a few of the infinite modifications of which a few leading principles arc capable, may diflinguifh any particular nation. The people of Tonga-taboo inter their dead in a very decent manner, and they alfo inter their human facrifices; but they do not offer, or expofe any other animal, or even vegetable, to their Gods, as far as we know. Thofe of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expofe them to wafle by time and putrefaction, 7 though THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 24g though the bones are afterward buried ; and, as this is the *778- February. cafe, it is very remarkable, that they fhould inter the entire V—/ bodies of their human facrifices. They alfo offer other animals, and vegetables, to their gods ; but are, by no means, attentive to the flate of the facred places, where thofe folcmn rites are performed; mofl of their Morals being in a ruinous condition, and bearing evident marks of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead, and human facrifices, as at Tongataboo; but they refcmble thofe of Otaheite, in the flovenly flate of their religious places, and in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. * The taboo alfo prevails in Atooi, in its full extent, and feemingly with much more rigour than even at Tongataboo. For the people here always afked, with great eagernefs and figns of fear to offend, whether any particular thing, which they defired to fee, or we were unwilling to fhew, was tabooy or, as they pronounced the word, tafia? The maia, rail, or forbidden articles at the Society Iflands, though, doubtlefs, the fame thing, did not feem to be fo flrictly obferved by them, except with refpect to the dead, about whom we thought them more fuperftitious than any of the others were. But thefe are circumftances with which we are not, as yet, fufflciently acquainted, to be decifive about; and I fhall only jufl obferve, to fhew the fimilitude in other matters, connected with religion, that the priefts, or tahounas, here, are as numerous as at the other iflands ; if we may judge, from our being able, during our fhort flay, to diftinguifh feveral, faying their poort, or prayer. But whatever refemblance we might difcover, in the general manners of the people of Atooi, to thofe of Otaheite, thefe, Vol. II. K k of of courfe, were lefs Unking than the coincidence of language. Indeed, the languages of both places may be faid to be almofl, word for word, the fame. It is true, that we fometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced exactly as we had found at New Zealand, and the Friendly Illands ; but though all the four dialects are indifputably the fame, thefe people, in general, have neither the flrong guttural pronunciation of the former, nor a lefs degree of it, which alfo diftinguifhes the latter; and they have not only adopted the foft mode of the Otaheiteans, in avoiding harfh founds, but the whole idiom of their language ; ufing not only the fame affixes and fuflixcs to their words, but the fame meafure and cadence in their fongs ; though in a manner fomewhat lefs agreeable. There feems, indeed, at firfl hearing, fome disagreement, to the ear of a flranger; but it ought be confidered, that the people of Otaheite, from their frequent connections with the Englifh, had learnt, in fome meafure, to adapt themfelvcs to our fcanty knowledge of their language, by ufing not only the mofl common, but even corrupted expreflions, in converfation with us; whereas, when they converfed among themfelvcs, and ufed the feveral parts neceffary to propriety of fpeech, they were fcarcely at all underftood by thofe amongfl us, who had made the greateft proficiency in their vocabulary. A catalogue of words was collected at Atooi, by Mr. Andcrfon, who loft no opportunity of making our voyage ufeful to thofe, who amufe themfelvcs in tracing the migrations of the various tribes, or families, that have peopled the globe, by the moft convincing of all arguments, that drawn from affinity of language. How fhall we account for this nation's having fprcad it-felf, in fo many detached iflands, fo widely disjoined from S each each other, in every quarter of the Pacific Ocean ! Wc find 1 7s- it, from New Zealand, in the South, as far as the Sandwich Iflands, to the North ! And, in another direction, from Eafler Jfland, to the Hebrides i. That is, over an extent of fixty degrees of latitude, or twelve hundred leagues, North and South! And eighty-three degrees of longitude, or fixteen hundred and fixty leagues, Eafl and Wcfl! How much farther, in either direction, its colonies reach, is not known ; but what wc know already, in confequence of this and our former voyage, warrants our pronouncing it to be, though perhaps not the mofl numerous, certainly, by far, the mofl extenfive nation upon earth*. Had the Sandwich Iflands been difcovered at an early period, by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage of fo excellent a fituation, and have made ufe of Atooi, or fome other of the iflands, as a refrefh-ing place to the fhips, that fail annually from Acapulco for Manilla. They lie almofl midway between the firfl place and Guam one of the Ladrones, which is at prefent their only port in travcrfing this vaft ocean; and it would not have been a week's fail out of their common route, to have touched at them ; which could have been done, without running the leafl hazard of lofing the paflage, as they arc fufliciently within the verge of the Eaflcrly trade-wind. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Iflands would have been equally favourable to our Buccaneers ; who ufed fometimes to pafs from the coafl of America to the Ladrones, with a flock of food and water fcarcely fufficient to preferve life. Here they might always have found plenty, and have been within a month's fure fail of the very part of California, which the * See more about the great extent of the colonies of this nation, in the Introductory Preface, K k 3 Manilla 1778. Manilla fhip is obliged to make, or elfe have returned to the v—v—J coaft of America, thoroughly refitted, after an abfence of two months. How happy would Lord Anfon have been, and what hardfhips would he have avoided, if he had known that there was a group of iflands, half way between America and Tinian, where all his wants could have been effectually fupplied; and in defcribing which, the elegant hiftorian of that voyage, would have prefented his reader with a more agreeable picture, than I have been able to draw in this chapter ? 9 CHAP, CHAP. XIII. Obfervations made at the Sandwich Ifands, on the Longi* tude, Variation of the Compafs, and Tides.—Pro/ecu-tion of the Voyage.—Remarks on the Mildnefs of the Weather, as far as the Latitude 440 North.—Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern Hemifphere.—Small Sea Animals defcribed.—Arrival on the Coaft of America. —Appearance of the Country.—Unfavourable Wi?ids, and boifterous Weather.—Remarks on Martin de Agui-lars River, and yuan de Fucds pretended Strait.— An Inlet difcovered, where the Ships anchor.—Behaviour of the Natives. AFTER the Difcovery had joined us, we flood away to 1773. the Northward, clofe hauled, with a gentle gale from . e luary^. the Eafl; and nothing occurring, in this fituation, worthy Mon ay 2* of a place in my narrative, the reader will permit me to« infert here the nautical obfervations which I had opportunities of making, relative to the iflands we had left; and which we had been fortunate enough to add to the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean. The longitude of the Sandwich Iflands, was determined by feventy-two fets of lunar obfervations; fome of which were made while we were at anchor, in the road of Wymoa; others, before we arrived, and after we left it, and reduced to it, by the watch, or time-keeper. By the mean i77»- mean rcfult of thefe obfervations, the longitude of the February. road is — — 2000 *3' °" Eaft. SGreenwich rate, 2020 o' o Ulietea rate The latitude of the road, by the mean of ) .V. ,r . r.i r f 21*56' 15" North, two meridian obfervations or the fun J D The obfervations for the variation of the compafs, did not agree very well among thcmfclves. It is true, they were not all made exactly in the fame fpot. The different filiations, however, could make very little difference. But the whole will be beft feen by cafting an eye on the following table. Time. Latitude. Longitude. Compafs. ,,E.aft. ,rMc'1n r Variation. Variation. "Gregory's io° io' io""J January 18th. A.M. 210 i%' 2000 4i'< Knight's 9° 20 5" I 9" 51' 38" J Martin's io° 4* 40"] ti, d i\ t o / a * i Knight's io° 2" 10"? „ , ,, 19th. P. M. 21 51 200° 20 \ 0 j io° 37 20 * Gregory's n° 12' %C?* J. f Gregory's 90 1' 20" 28th. A. M. 21° 22' 199° 56'J Knight's cf 1' 25' \ 90 26' 57' [Martin's io° 18' 5" JCnegory's n° 21' 15' Knight's io'J 40' o' [ Martin' " 37 50 Means of the above 210 29' 2000 12' On January 18th. 2i° 12' 200° 41" the North end of the needle dipped 42° l' jr. The tides, at the Sandwich Iflands arc fo inconfiderable, that, with the great fmf which broke againft the more, it was hardly poflible to tell, at any time, whether we had high or low water, or whether it ebbed or flowed. On the South fide of Atooi, we generally found a current fetting to the the Weftward, or North Weftward. But when we were at '77*. February* anchor oil Oneeheow, the current fet nearly North Weft '-«- and South Eaft, 11 x hours one way, and fix the other, and fo flrong as to make the mips tend, though the wind blew frefli. This was certainly a regular tide; and, as far as I could judge, the flood came from the North Weft. I now return to the progrefs of our voyage. On the 7th, Saturday 7. being in the latitude of a*/ North, and in the longitude of % 200° Eaft, the wind veered to South Eaft. This enabled us to fleer North Eaft and Eaft; which courfe we continued till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the South and TJwrTdiyu-Weft, to North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft. I then tacked, and ftood to the Northward, our latitude being 30* North, and our longitude 206° 15'Eaft. Notwithftanding our advanced latitude, and its being the winter feafon, we had only begun, for a few days paft, to feel a fenfation of cold in the mornings and evenings. This is a fign of the equal and lading influence of the fun's heat, at all feafons, to 300 on each fide the line. The difproportion is known to become very great after that. This mufl be attributed, almofl entirely, to the direction of the rays of the fun, independent of the bare diflance, which is, by no means, equal to the effect. On the 19th, being now in the latitude of 37* North, and fhurfiUy j<> in the longitude of 2060 Eaft, the wind veered to South Eaft; and I was enabled again to fleer to the Eaft, inclining to the North. Wc had, on the 25th, reached the latitude of 42s 30', and the longitude of 2190; and then we began to meet with the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anfbn's voyage, under the name of fea-lcdk, which the Manilla ihips generally fall in with. Now and then, a piece of wood alfo appeared. But, if we had not known, that the continent of 1778- of North America was not far diftant, we might, from the February, . . ^ v—M—/ few figns of the vicinity of land hitherto met with, have concluded, that there was none within fome thoufand leagues of us. We had hardly feen a bird, or any other oceanic animal, fince we left Sandwich Iflands. March. On the 1 ft of March, our latitude being now 440 49' North, Sunday i. our longitude 228° Eaft, we had one calm day. This was fucceeded by a wind from the North, with which I ftood to the Eaft clofe hauled, in order to make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far from us. It was remarkable, that we fhould ftill carry with us fuch moderate and mild weather, fo far to the Northward, and fo near the coaft of an extenfive continent, at this time of the year. The prefent feafon either mufl be uncommon for its mildnefs, or we can aflign no reafon, why Sir Francis Drake fhould have met with fuch fevere cold, about this latitude, in the month of June*. Vifcaino, indeed, who was near the fame place, in the depth of winter, fays little of the cold, and fpeaks of a ridge of fnowy mountains, fome-where on the coaft, as a thing rather remarkable f. Our feeing fo few birds, in comparifon of what we met with in the fame latitudes, to the South of the line, is another angular circumftance, which mufl either proceed from a fcarcity of the different forts, or from a deficiency of places to reft upon. From hence we may conclude, that beyond 400 in the Southern hemifphere, the fpecies are much more numerous, and the ifles where they inhabit alfo more plenti- * See the account of Sir Francis's voyage, in Campbell's edition of Harris, Vol. i. p> 18. and other Collections. t See Torquemada's Narrative of Vifcaino's Expedition, in 1602 and 1603, in the fecond volume of Vanegas's Hiftory of California, Englifh translation, from p. 7.29. to p. 308. fully "fully fcattered about, than any where between the coafl: of J77s: ; J March. California and Japan, in or near that latitude. t—v~—t During a calm, on the morning of the 2d, fome parts of Mondays, the fea feemed covered with a kind of flime; and fome fmall fea animals were fwimming about. The moft confpicuous of which, were of the gelatinous, or medufa kind, almofl globular; and another fort fmaller, that had a white, or mining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of thefe lafl were taken up, and pu^ into a glafs cup, with fome fait water, in which they appeared like fmall fcales, or bits of filver, when at reft, in a prone fituation. When they began to fwim about, which they did, with equal eafe, upon their back, fides, or belly, they emitted the brighter! colours of the moft precious gems, according to their pofitidn with refpect to the light. Sometimes they appeared quite pellucid, at other times affuming various tints of blue, from a pale fapphirine, to a deep violet colour; which were frequently mixed with a ruby, or opaline rednefs; and glowed with a ftrength fufflcicnt to illuminate the veflel and water. Thefe colours appeared moft vivid, when the glafs was held to a flrong light; and moflly vanifhed, on the fubfiding of the animals to the bottom, when they had a brownifh call. But, with candle light, the colour was, chiefly, a beautiful, pale green, tinged with a burnifhed giofs; and, in the dark, it had a faint appearance of glowing fire. They proved to be a new fpecies of cnifcus, and, from their properties, were, by Mr. Anderfon (to whom we owe this account of them), called onifeus juJgcns\ being, probably, an animal which has a fhare in producing fome forts of that lucid appearance, often obferved near fhips at fea, in the night. On the fame day, two large birds fettled on the water, near the fhip. One of thefe was the procellaria Vol. II. LI maxima maxima (the quebvantahuefTos), and the other, which was little March. v 1 M v—>—^ more than half the fize, feemed to be of the albatrofi kind. The upper part of the wings, and tip of the tail, were black, with the rcll white ; the bill yellowifh ; upon the whole, not unlike the fea-gull, though larger. Friday 6. On the 6th, at noon, being in the latitude of 440 10' North, and the longitude of 234 Eaft, we faw two feals, and feve- saiurday 7. rai whales; and at day-break, the next morning, the long-looked for coaft of New Albion* was feen, extending from North Call to South Eaft, diflant ten or twelve leagues. At noon, Our latitude wras 440 33' North, and our longitude 2350 20' Eaft ; and the land extended from North Eaft half North, to South Eaft by South, about eight leagues diftant. In this fituation, we had feventy-three fathoms water, over a muddy bottom, and about a league farther off found ninety fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate height, diverfified with hills and vallies, and, almofl every where, covered with wood. There was, however, no very ftriking object on any part of it, except one hill, whofe elevated lu mm it was flat. This bore Eaft from us, at noon. At the Northern extreme, the land formed a point, which I called Cape Fouhveather, from the very bad weather that we, foon after, met with. I judge it to lie in the latitude of 440 55' North, and in the longitude of 2350 54' Eaft. We had variable light airs and calms, till eight o'clock in the evening, when a breeze fprung up at South Weft. With it, I ftood to the North Weft, under an eafy fail, waiting for Sunday 8. day-light to range along the coaft. But at four, next morn;-ing, the wind fhiftcd to North Weft, and blew in fqualls, with rain. Our courfe was North Eaft, till near ten o'clock, * This pr.rt of the Weft fide of North America, was fo named by Sir Francis Drake. % when, Views on He Weft (oust AMERICA.. View wil«* Table Hill «Wv? /■ n.iV. Mimut l-.ili/i 11 t«*l>c View wkm MountEdffcujjjbt /W .V. IYJ M ftfaftfat* STww of t/te Entrance ,//' ^ d dtka Sound, n'^/'// .V./a'/h/ of't/te Entrance /r>rr E'. /At!'4 Milts, Www <'*/en Wiwrpf Kwe'i l.vlnuil n/ie/t the iV. //W /,;/>• ,V 2 /nwSv /-/-j'. IB,1 n/thr llin'f /tir J.ftnr/. Swweftfu Laud/// P a in i'E William's Sound, A»fe««Jrvm tke EirCt Anchoring- //■ (he Nortb w-.ml e/' Cape Hincbkigbrook to., when, finding that I could make no progrefs on this tack, "7?8. 1 rr- March. and feeing nothing like a harbour, I tacked, and flood off >__ South Weft. At this time, Cape Foulweathcr bore North Eaft by North, about eight leagues diflant. Toward noon, the wind veered more to the Weftward, and the weather became fair and clear; fo that we were enabled to make lunar obfervations. Having reduced all thofe that we had made fince the 19th of laft month to the prefent ones, by the time-keeper, amounting, in the whole, to feventy-two fcts; their mean refult determined the longitude to be 15' 26" Eaft, which was 14' 11" lefs than what the time-keeper gave. This longitude is made ufe of for fettling that of the coafl j and 1 have not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the truth. Our difficulties now began to increafe. In the evening, the wind came to the North Weft, blowing in fqualls with hail and fleet; and the weather being thick and hazy, I ftood out to fea till near noon the next day, when I tacked and Monday 9, ftood in again for the land, which made its appearance at two in the afternoon, bearing Eaft North Eaft. The wind and weather continued the fame ; but, in the evening, the former veered more to the Weft, and the latter grew worfc ; which made it neceffary to tack and ft and off till four the next morning, when I ventured to fland in again. At four in the afternoon, we faw the land, which, at fix, Tucfday id. extended from North Fall half Eaft, to South Eaft by South, about eight leagues diilant. In this fituation, we tacked and founded ; but a line of a hundred and fixty fathoms did not reach the ground. I ftood off till midnight, then flood in Wednef. ti. again; and, at'half pa ft fix, we were within three leagues of the land, which extended from North by Eaft, half Eafl, LI 2 to to South, half Eafl; each extreme about feven leagues dif-tant. Seeing no figns of a harbour, and the weather being ftill unfettlcd, I tacked and flretched off South Weft, having then fifty-five fathoms water over a muddy bottom. That part of the land, which we were fo near when wc tacked, is of a moderate height, though, in fome places, it rifes higher within. It was diverfificd with a great many rifing grounds and fmall hills; many of which were entirely covered with tall, flraight trees; and others, which were lower, and grew in fpots like coppices ; but the interfpaccs, and fides of many of the rifing grounds, were clear. The whole, though it might make an agreeable fummcr pro-fpecl, had now an uncomfortable appearance j as the bare grounds toward the coafl were all covered with fnow, which feemed to be of a confiderable depth between the little hills and rifing grounds ; and, in feveral places toward the fea, might eafily have been miflakcn, at a diflance, for white cliffs. The fnow on the rifing grounds was thinner fprcad; and farther inland, there was no appearance of any; from whence we might, perhaps, conclude, that what we faw toward the fea, had fallen during the night; which was colder than any we had experienced fince our arrival on the coafl; and we had fometimes a kind of fleet. The coafl feemed every where almofl flraight, without any opening or inlet; and it appeared to terminate in a kind of white fandy beach ; though fome on board thought that appearance was owing to the fnow. Each extreme of the land that was now before us, feemed to moot out into a point. The Northern one was the fame which we had firfl feen on the 7th; and, on that account, I called it Cape Perpetua. It lies in the latitude of 440 6' North, and in the longitude of 235° 52' Eafl. The Southern extreme before us, I named Cape Cape Gregory». Its latitude is 43* 30', and its longitude ^77*. 235° 57' Eaft. It is a remarkable point; the land of it rifing w—*~—1 almofl directly from the fea, to a tolerable height, while that on each fide of it is low. I continued Handing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked, and ftood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But in this I was miftaken; for at five o'clock it began to veer to the Weft and South Weft ; which obliged me, once more, to ftand out to fea. At this time, Cape Perpetua bore North Eaft by North j and the fartheft land we could fee to the South of Cape Gregory, bore South by Eaft, perhaps ten or twelve leagues diftant. If I am right in this eftimation, its latitude will be 430 10', and its longitude 235° 55' Eaft, which is nearly the fituation of Cape Blanco, difcovered or feen by Martin d'Aguilar, on the 19th of January, 1603. It is worth obferving, that, in the very latitude where we now were, geographers have "been pleafed to place a large entrance or ftrait, the difcovery of which they take upon them to afcribe to the fame navigator; whereas nothing more is mentioned in the account of his voyage, than his having feen, in this fituation, a large river, which he would have entered, but was prevented by the currents j". The wind, as I have obferved, had veered to South Weft in the evening ; but it was very 11 nfettled, and blew in h fqualls with fnow, fhowers. In one of thefe, at midnight, it fhifted at once to Weft North Weft, and foon increafed to a very hard gale, with heavy fqualls, attended with fleet or fnow. There was no choice now ; and we were obliged * In our calendar, the 7th of March is diftinguifhed by the name of Perpetua M, and the 12th by that of Gregory B. t See the Hittory of California. Eng. tranf. Vol. ii. p- 292. to. *778- to ftretch to the Southward, hi order to set clear of the March. 0 <-„-' coaft. This was done under courfcs, and two clofc-reefed topfails; being rather more fail than the fhips could fafely bear; but it was neceffary to carry it to avoid the more preiling danger of being forced on fhore. This gale con- -Friday 13, tinued till eight o'clock in the morning of the 13th; when it abated, and I flood in again for the land. Wc had been forced a confiderable way backward; for at the time of our tacking, we were in the latitude of 420 45', and in the longitude of 233° 30', The wind continued at Weft, and North Well; ftorms, moderate weather, and calms, fucceeding each other by Saturday21. turns, till the morning of the 21ft ; when, after a few hours calm, a breeze fprung up at South Well. This bringing with it fair weather, I fleered North Eaflerly, in order to fall in with the land, beyond that part of it where we had already fo unprofitably been toffed about for the laft fortnight. In the evening, the wind veered to the Weftward; Sunday 22. and, at eight o'clock, the next morning, we faw the land, extending from North Eaft to Eaft, nine leagues diflant. At this time wc were in the latitude of 47* 5' North, and in the longitude of 2350 10' Eaft. I continued to fland to the North with a fine breeze at Weft, and Weft North Weft, till near feven o'clock in the evening, when I tacked to wait for day-light. At this time, we were in forty-eight fathoms water, and about four leagues from the land, which extended from North to South Eaft half Eaft, and a fmall round hill, which had the appearance of being an ifland, bore North three quarters Eaft, d.iftant fix or feven leagues, as I gueffed ; it appears to be of a tolerable height, and was but jufl to be feen from the 4 deck. deck. Between this iiland or rock, and the Northern ex- *p\- March, rrcme of the land, there appeared to be a fmall opening, <——j which flattered us with the hopes of finding an harbour. Thefe hopes leflcned as we drew nearer; and, at lalt, we had fome reafon to think, that the opening was clofed by-low land. On this account I called the point of land to the North of it Cape Flattery. It lies in the latitude of 48* 15' North, and in the longitude of 2350 31 Eaft. There is a round hill of a moderate height over it; and all the land upon this part of the coaft is of a moderate and pretty equal height, well covered with wood, and had a very pleafant and fertile appearance. It is in this very latitude where wc now were, that geographers have placed the pretended ftrait of Juan de Fuca. But wc faw nothing like it ; nor is there the leaf! probability that ever any fuch thing cx-ifted *. I ftood off to the Southward till midnight, when I tacked, and fleered to the North Weft, with a gentle breeze at South Weft, intending to ftand in for the land as foon as day-light fhould appear. But, by that time, we were re- Monday 25. duced to two courfcs and clofe-reefed top-fails, having a very hard gale, with rain, right on fhore; fo that, inftead of running in for the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which we had already got. The South Weft wind was, however, but of fhort continuance ; for, in the evening, it veered again to the Weft. Thus had we perpetually flrong Weft and North Weft winds to encounter. Sometimes, in an evening, the wind would become moderate, and veer to the Southward; but this was always a fure prelude to a * See Michael Locke's apocryphal account of Juan de Fuca, and his pretended fk-Aity in Purchas, Vol. ;ii. p. 849—852. and many later Collections. ftorm, ftorm, which blew the hardeft at South South Eaft, and was attended with rain and fleet. It feldom lafted above four or fix hours, before it was fucccedcd by another gale from the North Weft, which, generally, brought with it fair weather. It was, by the means of thefe Southerly blafts, that we were enabled to get to the North Weft at all. At length, at nine o'clock in the morning of the 29th, as we were Handing to the North Eaft, wTc again faw the land, which, at noon, extended from North Weft by Weft, to Eaft South Eaft, the neareft part about fix leagues diftant. Our latitude was now 490 29/ North, and our longitude 2320 29' Eafl:. The appearance of the country differed much from that of the parts which we had before feen; being full of high mountains, whofe fummits were covered with fnow. But the valleys between them, and the grounds on the fea coaft, high as well as low, were covered to a confiderable breadth with high, flraight trees, that formed a beautiful prof peel:, as of one vaft forcft. The South Eaft extreme of the land formed a low point, off which arc many breakers, occafioncd by funken rocks. On this account it was called Point Breakers. It lies in the latitude of 15' North, and in the longitude of 233*20' Eaft; and the other extreme, in about the latitude of 500, and the longitude of 2320. I named this laft Woody Point. It projects pretty much out to the South Weft, and is high land. Between thefe two points, the fhore forms a large bay, which I called Rope Bay\ hoping, from the appearance of the land, to find in it a good harbour. The event proved, that we were not mif-taken. As we drew nearer the coaft, wc perceived the appearance of two inlc:s; one in the North Weft, and the other in 1 , the the North Eafl corner of the bay. As I could not fetch the former, I bore up for the latter; and paffed fome breakers, or funken rocks, that lay a league or more from the fhore. We had nineteen and twenty fathoms water half a league without them ; but as foon as we had paffed them, the depth increafed to thiry, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a fandy bottom; and farther in we found no ground with the greatefl length of line. Notwithflanding appearances, we were not yet fure that there were any inlets; but, as wc were in a deep bay, I had refolved to anchor, with a view to endeavour to get fome water, of which, by this time, we were in great want. At length, as we advanced, the exift-cnce of the inlet was no longer doubtful. At five o'clock we reached the Well point of it, where we were becalmed for fome time. While in this fituation, I ordered all the boats to be hoifled out to tow the fhips in. But this was hardly done, before a frefli breeze fprung up again at North Weft, with which we were enabled to ftretch up into an arm of the inlet, that was obferved by us to run in to the North Eaft. There we were again becalmed, and obliged to anchor in eighty-five fathoms water, and fo near the fhore as to reach it with a hawfer. The wind failed the Difcovery before fhe got within the arm, where fhe anchored, and found only feventy fathoms. We no fooner drew near the inlet than we found the coaft to be inhabited; and at the place where we were firft becalmed, three canoes came off to the fhip. In one of thefe were two men, in another fix, and in the third ten. Having come pretty near us, a perfon in one of the two laft flood up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we gueffed, by his gefturcs, At the fame time, he Vol. II M m kept *p9; kept flrewino: handfuls of feathers toward us*; and fome of March. r o <*-» his companions threw handfuls of a red dufl or powder in the fame manner. The perfon who played the orator, wore the ikin of fome animal, and held, in each hand, fomething which rattled as he kept making it. After tiring himfelf with hris repeated exhortations, of which we did not underfland a word, he was quiet; and then others took it, by turns, to fay fomething, though they acted their part neither fo long, nor with fo much vehemence as the other. We obferved that two or three had their hair quite flrewed over with fmall white feathers ; and others had large ones fluck into different parts of the head. After the tumultuous noife had ceafed, they lay at a little diflance from the fhip, and converfed with each other in a very eafy manner; nor did they feem to fhew the leaft furprize or diflrufl. Some of them, now and then, got up, and faid fomething after the manner of their firft harangues; and one fung a very agreeable air, with a degree of foftnefs and melody which we could not have expected; the word haela, being often repeated as the burden of the fong. The breeze which foon after fprung up, bringing us nearer to the fhore, the canoes began to come off in greater numbers ; and we had> at one time, thirty-two of them near the fhip, carrying from three to feven or eight perfons each, both men and women* Several of thefe flood up in their canoes haranguing, and making gcflures after the manner of our firfl vifiters. One canoe was remarkable for a angular head, which had a bird's eye and bill, of an enormous fize, painted on it; and a perfon who was in it, who feemed to be a Chief, was no * The natives of this coaft, twelve degrees farther South, alfo brought feathers as prefents to Sir Francis Drake on his arrival. See an account of his voyage in Camp~ id?$ edit, of Harrh, Vol. i. p. 18. lefs lefs remarkable for his uncommon appearance ; having many feathers hanging from his head, and being painted in an extraordinary manner*. He held in his hand a carved bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he rattled as the perfon firfl-mentioned had done; and was no lefs vociferous in his harangue, which was attended with fome expreffive geflures. Though our vifiters behaved very peaceably, and could not be fufpected of any hoflile intention, we could not prevail upon any of them to come on board. They fhewed great readinefs, however, to part with any thing they had, and rook from us whatever we offered them in exchange; but were more defirous of iron, than of any other of our articles of commerce; appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the ufe of that metal. Many of the canoes followed us to our anchoring-place; and a group of about ten or a dozen of them remained along-fide the Refolution mofl part of the night; Thefe circumflances gave us a reafbnable ground of hope, that we fhould find this a comfortable flation to fupply all our wants, and to make us forget the hardfhips and delays experienced during a conflant fucceflion of adverfe winds, and boiflerous weather, almofl ever fince our arrival upon the coafl of America. * Vifcaino met with natives on the coaft of California, while he was in the harbour of San Diego, who were painted or hefmeared with black and white, and had tfo'ir heads loaded with feathers. Hijiory of California, Vol. ii. p. 272. M m 2 VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN BOOK IV. Tranfa&ions amongft the Natives of North America j Difcoveries along that Coaft and the Eaftern Extremity of Afia, Northward to Icy Cape j and Return Southward to the Sandwich Iflands. CHAP. I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.—In-* tercourfe with the Natives.—Articles brought to barter. —Thefts co?nmitted.—The Obfervatories creeled, and Carpenters fet to work.—Jealoufy of the Inhabitants of the Sound to prevent other Tribes having Intercourfe with the Ships.-—Stormy and rainy Weather.— Progrefs round the Sound.—Behaviour of the Natives at their Villages. —Their Manner of drying Fifij, &c.—Remarkable Vifit from Strangers, and introdu&ory Ceremonies,—Afecond Vifit to one of the Villages.—Leave to cut Grafs^purchajed. —The Ships faiL—Prefents given and received at parting. . THE fhips having happily found fo excellent flicker in an inlet, the coafls of which appeared to be in-1 , habited by a race of people, whofe inoiTenfive behaviour promifed a friendly intercourfe, the next morn- Monday 3ou 1778. March. ing, after coming to anchor, I loft no time in endeavouring to find a commodious harbour where we might ftation our-felves during our continuance in the Sound. Accordingly, 1 fent three armed boats, under the command of Mr. King, upon this fervicc and foon after, I went myfelf, in a fmall boat, on the fame fearch. I had very little trouble in finding what we wanted. On the North Weft of the arm we were now in, and not/far from the fhips, I met with a convenient fnug cove well fuitcd to our purpofe. Mr. King was equally fuccefsful ; for he returned about noon, with an account of a ftill better harbour, which he had feen and examined, lying on the North Weft fide of the land. But as it would have required more time to carry the fhips thither, than to the cove where I had been, which was immediately within our reach ; this reafon operated to determine my choice in favour of the latter fituation. But being ap* prehenfive, that we fhould not be able to tranfport our fhips to it, and to moor them properly, before night came on, 1 thought it beft to remain where we were till next morning; and, that no time might be loft, I employed the remainder of the day to fome ufeful purpofes, ordering the fails to be unbenr, the top-mafts to be flruck, and the fore-maft of the Refolution to be unrigged, in order to fix a new bib, one of the old ones being decayed. A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the fhips all day; and a trade commenced betwixt us and them, which was carried on with the ftricleft honefty on both fides. The articles which they offered to fale were fkins of various animals, fuch as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, rackoons, polecats, martins; and, in particular, of the fea otters, which are found at the illands Eaft of Kamt-fchatka. Befides the fkins in their native fhape, they alfo brought garments made of them, and another fort of clothing ing made of the bark of a tree, or fome plant like hemp; wea- ^77** pons, fuch as bows, arrows, and fpears; fifh-hooks, and inflru-ments of various kinds ; wooden vizors of many different monftrous figures j a fort of woollen fluff, or blanketing; bags filled with red ochre; pieces of carved work; beads; and feveral other little ornaments of thin brafs and iron, fhaped like a horfe-fhoe, which they hang at their nofes; and fevcral chif-fels, or pieces of iron, fixed to handles. From their poflefling which metals, we could infer that they had either been vifited before by fome civilized nation, or had connections with tribes on their continent, who had communication with them. But the moft extraordinary of all the articles which they brought to the fhips for fale, were human fkulls, and hands not yet quite flrippcd of the flefh, which they made our people plainly underfland they had eaten > and, indeed, fome of them had evident marks that they had been upon the fire. We had but too much reafon to fufpecf^ from this circumflance, that the horrid practice of feeding on their enemies is as prevalent here, as we had found it to be at New Zealand and other South Sea iflands. For the various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, chiffels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, look-ing-glaffes, buttons, or any kind of metal. Glafs beads they were not fond of; and cloth of every fort they rejected. We employed the next day in hauling our fhips into the Taefdayir. cove, where they were moored head and flern, faliening our hawfers to the trees on fhore. On heaving up the anchor of the Refolution, we found, notwithflanding the great depth of water in which it was let go, that there were rocks at the bottom. Thefe had done fome confiderable damage to the cable j and the hawfers that were carried out, to warp warp the fhip into the cove, alfo got foul of rocks; from which it appeared that the whole bottom was flrewed with them. The fhip being again very leaky in her upper works, I ordered the carpenters to go to work to caulk her, and to repair fuch other defects as, on examination, we might difcover. The fame of our arrival brought a great concourfe of the natives to our fhips in the courfe of this day. We counted above a hundred canoes at one time, which might be fuppofed to contain, at an average, five perfons each ; for few of them had lefs than three on board j great numbers had feven, eight, or nine ; and one was manned with no lefs than feventeen. Amongfl thefe vifiters, many now favoured us with their company for the firfl time, which we could guefs, from their approaching the fhips with their orations and other ceremonies. If they had any diflrufl or fear of us at firfl, they now appeared to have laid it afide; for they came on board the fhips, and mixed with our people with the greatefl freedom. We foon difcovered, by this nearer intercourfe, that they were as light-fingered as any of our friends in the iflands wc had vifited in the courfe of the voyage. And they were far more dangerous thieves ; for, poffefling fharp iron inflruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the inflant that our backs were turned. A large hook, weighing between twenty and thirty pounds, feveral fmaller ones, and other articles of iron, were loft in this manner. And, as to our boats, they fli-ipped them of every bit of iron that was worth carrying away, though we had always men left in them as a guard. They were dextrous enough in effecting their purpofes; for one fellow would contrive to amufc the boat-keeper, at one end of a boat, while an-i other other was pulling out the iron work at the other. If we ^77*-miffed a thing immediately after it had been flolen, we ^r—j found little difficulty in detecting the thief, as they were ready enough to impeach one another. But the guilty perfon generally rclinquifhed his prize with reluctance ; and fometimes we found it neceffary to have recourfe to force. The lhips being fecurely moored, we began our other April, neceffary bufinefs the next day. The obfervatorics were ed"ef*(i carried afhore, and placed upon an elevated rock on one fide of the cove, clofe to the Refolution. A party of men, with an officer, was fent to cut wood, and to clear a place for the convcnicncy of watering. Others were employed to brew fpruce-beer, as pine trees abounded here. The forge was alfo fet up, to make the iron-work wanting for the repairs of the fore-mafl. For, befides one of the bibs being defective, the larboard treflle-tree, and one of the crofs-trees were fprung. A confiderable number of the natives vifited us daily ; and, every now and then, we faw new faces. On their firfl coming, they generally went through a fingular mode of introducing themfelves. They would paddle, with all their flrength, quite round both fhips, a Chief, or other principal perfon in the canoe, Handing up with a fpear, or fome other weapon, in his hand, and fpeaking, or rather hollowing, all the time. Sometimes the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a mafk, reprefenting cither a human vifage, or that of fome animal; and, inflcad of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his hand, as before defcribed. After making this circuit round the fliips, they would come along-fide, and begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, indeed, they would firfl give us a Vox,. II. N n fong, J778- fong, in which all in the canoe joined, with a very pleafinq: April. 0 *-* l—,—j harmony. During thefe vifns, they gave us no other trouble, than to guard againft their thicvifh tricks. But, in the Saturday 4. morning of the 4th, we had a ferious alarm. Our party on fhore, who were employed in cutting wood, and filling water, obferved, that the natives all around them were arming themfelvcs in the beft manner they could ; thofe, who were not poflc fifed of proper weapons, preparing flicks, and collecting ftones. On hearing this, I thought it prudent to arm alfo; but, being determined to act upon the defen-fivc, I ordered all our workmen to retreat to the rock, upon which we had placed our obfervatories ; leaving the natives in quiet poffefiion of the ground where they had affemblcd, which was within a ftone's throw of the Refolution's ftern. Our fears were ill-grounded : thefe hoftilc preparations were not directed againft us, but againft a body of their own countrymen, who were coming to fight them ; and our friends of the Sound, on obferving our apprehenfions, ufed their beft endeavours to convince us that this was the cafe. We could fee, that they had people looking out, on each point of the cove, and canoes frequently paffed between them and the main body affembled near the fliips. At length, the adverfc party, in about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the South point of the cove, where they flopped, and lay drawn up in line of battle, a negociation having commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the treaty, paffed between the two parties, and there was fome fpeaking on both fides. At length, the difference, whatever it was, feemed to be compromifed ; but the flrangers were not allowed to come along-lide the fliips, nor to have any trade or intercourfe with us. Probably we were the cau^fc caufe of the quarrel; the ftrangers, perhaps, being defirous J773. to mare in the advantages of a trade with us ; and our firft uJ^i friends, the inhabitants of the Sound, being determined to engrofs us entirely to themfelvcs. We had proofs of this on feveral other occafions; nay, it appeared, that even thofe who lived in the Sound were not united in the fame caufe; for the weaker were frequently obliged to give way to the flronger party, and plundered of every thing, without attempting to make the leaf! refinance. We rcfumcd our work in the afternoon, and, the next Sunday 5. day, rigged the fore-malt; the head of which being rather too fmali for the cap, the carpenter went to work, to fix a piece on one fide, to fill up the vacant fpacc. In cutting into the mafl-head for this purpofe, and examining the flate of it, both cheeks were found to be fo rotten, that there was no pombility of repairing them ; and it became neceffary to get the mafl out, and to fix new ones upon it. It was evident, that one of the checks had been defective at the firfl, and that the unfound part had been cut out, and a piece put in; which had not only weakened the mail-head, but had, in a great meafure, been the occafion of rotting every other part of both cheeks. Thus, when we were almofl ready to put to fea, wc had all our work to do over again; and, what was flill more provoking, an additional repair was to be undertaken, which would require fome time to be completed. But, as there was no remedy, wc immediately fet about it. It was fortunate for the voyage, that thefe defects were difcovered, when we were in a place, where the materials requifitc were to be procured. For, amongtl the drift-\vood, in the cove where the fhips lay, were fome fmall fea-foncd trees very fit for our purpofe. One of thefe was pitched upon ; fnd the carpenters began, without lofs of time, to make out of it two new cheeks. N n 2 In in the morning of the 7th, we got the fore-mad out, and u-~j*—j hauled it afhore; and the carpenters of the fhips were fet y 7" to work upon it. Some parts of the lower Handing rigging having been found to be very much decayed, as we had time now to put them in order, while the carpenters were repairing the fore mail, I ordered a new fet of main-rigging to be fitted, and a more perfect fet of fore-rigging to be fe-lccted out of the beft parts of the old. From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, the weather had been exceedingly fine, without either wind or rain. That comfort, at the very moment when the continuance of it would have been of mofl fervice, was with-Wednef. 8. drawn. In the morning of the 8th, the wind frefhened at South Eafl, attended with thick hazy weather and rain. In the afternoon the wind increafed; and, toward the evening, it blew very hard indeed. It. came, in exccflively heavy fqualls, from over the high land on the oppofite fhore, right into the cove; and, though the fliips were very well moored, put them in fome danger. Thefe tempefluous blafls fuccccded each other pretty quick; but they were of fliort duration; and in the intervals between them we had a perfect calm. According to the old proverb, Misfortunes fel-dom come fingle; the mizen was now the only mafl on board the Refolution that remained rigged, with its top-maft up. The former was fo defective, that it could not fupport the latter during the violence of the fqualls, but gave way at the head under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale abated ; but the rain continued with very little intermiffion for feveral days ; and, that the carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their labours, while it prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore-mafl, where they could work with fome degree of convenience. The The bad weather which now came on, did not, however, 177?. hinder the natives from vifiting us daily; and, in fuch cir- u-A-J-'>^ cumftances, their vifits were very advantageous to us. For they frequently brought us a tolerable fupply of fifh, when we could not catch any ourfelves with hook and line; and there was not a proper place near us where we could draw a net. The fifh which they brought us were either fardines ; or what refemblcd them much, a fmall kind of bream ; and fometimes fmall cod. On the nth, notwithflanding the rainy weather, the main- Saturday u, rigging was fixed and got over head ; and our employment, the day after, was to take down the mizen-maft, the head Sunday i* of which proved to be fo rotten, that it dropped off while in the flings. In the evening we were vifited by a tribe of natives whom we had never feen before;, and who, in general, were better looking people than moft of our old friends, fome of whom attended them. I prevailed upon thefe vifiters to go down into the cabin for the firft time; and obferved, that there was not a fingle object that fixed the attention of moft of them for a moment; their countenances marking, that they looked upon all our novelties with the utmoft indifference. This, however, was not without exception; for a few of the company fhewed a certain degree of curiofity. In the afternoon of the next day, I went into the woods MorMy 11. with a party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizen-maft. On the day following, it was brought to the plac2 Tneffry 14. where the carpenters were employed upon the fore-maft. In the evening the wind, which had been, for fome time, Wefterly, veered to South Eaft, and increafed to a very hard gale, with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next wednef. 15, morning, when it abated, and veered again to the Weft. The 177s. The fore-matt beino;, by this time, finifhed, we hauled it April. , 1 , v-^v^.^ along-fide ; but the bad weather prevented our getting it in till the afternoon ; and we fet about rigging it with the greateft expedition, while the carpenters were going on with the mizen-maft on fhore. They had made very confiderable Thurfday 16. progrefs in it on the 16th; when they difcovered, that the Hick upon which they were at work was fprung, or wounded; owing, as fuppofed, to fome accident in cutting it down. So that all their labour was thrown away -7 and it became neceffary to get another tree out of the woods, which employed all hands above half a day. During thefe various operations, feveral of the natives, who were about the fhips, looked on with an expreflive filent furprize, which we did not expect, from their general indifference and inattention. Saturday 18. On the 18th, a party of ftrangers, in fix or eight canoes, came into the cove, where they remained, looking at us, for fome time ; and then retired, without coming along-fide either fhip. We fuppofed, that our old friends, who were more numerous, at this time, about us, than thefe new vifiters, would not permit them to have any intercourfe with us. It was evident, upon this and feveral other occafions, that the inhabitants of the adjoining parts of the Sound en-groffed us entirely to thcmfelves; or if, at any time, they did not hinder ftrangers from trading with us, they contrived to manage the trade for them in fuch a manner, that the price of their commodities was always kept up, while the value of ours wa-s leflening every day. We alfo found, that many of the principal natives, who lived near us, carried on a trade with more diflant tribes, in the articles they had procured from us. For wc obferved, that they would frequently difappear for four or five days at a time, and then return with frefh cargoes of fkins and curiofities, which 1 - which our people were To paftionately fond of, that they al- jftg}-ways came to a good market. But we received moft bene- "—v~—* fit from fuch of the natives as vifited us daily. Thefe, after difpofing of all their little trifles, turned their attention to fifhingj and we never failed to partake of what they caught. We alfo got from thefe people a confiderable quantity of very good animal oil, which they had rcfcrved in bladders. In this traffic fome would attempt to cheat us, by mixing water with the oil; and, once or twice, they had the addrcfs to carry their impofition fo far, as to fill their bladders with mere water, without a fingle drop of oil. It was always better to bear with thefe tricks, than to make them the foundation of a quarrel; for our articles of traffic confifted, for the mofl part, of mere trifles; and yet we were put to our fhifts to find a conflant fupply even of thefe. Beads, and fuch other toys, of which I had ftill fome left, were in little eflimation. Nothing would go down with our vifiters but metal and brafs had, by this time, fupplanted iron; being fo eagerly fought after, that before we left this place, hardly a bit of it was left in the fliips, except what belonged to our neceffary inftruments. Whole fuits of clothes were ftripped of every button ; bureaus of their furniture ; and copper kettles, tin cannifters, candleflicks, and the like, all went to wreck ; fo that our American friends here got a greater medley and variety of things from us, than any other nation whom we had vifited in the courfe of the voyage. After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair Sunday 19*. day, we availed ourfclves of it, to get up the top-mafts and yards, and to fix up the rigging. And, having now finifhed moft of our heavy work, I fet out the next morning to take Monday 20. a. view of the Sound, I firft went to the Weft point, where 7 I found- 1778. I found a large village, and, before it, a very fnug bar-*p"1' j bour, in which was from nine to four fathoms water, over a bottom of fine fand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to mofl of whom I was well known, received me very courteoufly; every one prefling me to go into his houfe, or rather his apartment; for feveral families live under the fame roof. I did not decline the invitations; and my hofpitable friends, whom I vifited, fpread a mat for me to fit down upon, and fhewed me every other mark of civility. In mod of the houfes were women at work, making dreffes of the plant or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in the fame manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening fardines. I had feen'a large quantity of them brought on fhore from canoes, and divided by meafure amongfl feveral people, who carried them up to their houfes, where the operation of curing them by fmoke-drying is performed. They hang them on fmall rods; at firfl, about a foot from the fire; afterward they remove them higher and higher, to make room for others, till the rods, on which the fifh hang, reach the top of the houfe. When they are completely dried, they are taken down and packed clofe in bales, which they cover with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted; and they are not a difagreeable article of food. Cod, and other large fifh, are alfo cured in the fame manner by them; though they fometimes dry thefe in the open air, without fire. From this village I proceeded up the Wefl fide of the Sound. For about three miles, I found the fhore covered with fmall iflands, which are fo fituated as to form feveral convenient harbours, having various depths of water, from thirty to feven fathoms, with a good bottom. Two leagues 2 within within the Sound, on this Weft fide, there runs in an arm I77.?. April. in the direction of North North Weft ; and two miles far- '-»— ther, is another nearly in the fame direction, with a pretty large ifland before it. I had no time to examine either of thefe arms; but have reafon to believe, that they do not extend far inland, as the water was no more than brackifh at their entrances. A mile above the fecond arm, I found the remains of a village. The logs or framings of the houfes were Handing; but the boards that had compofed their fules and roofs did not exift. Before this village were fome large fifhing wears; but I faw nobody attending them. Thefe wears were compofed of pieces of wicker-work made of fmall rods, fome clofer than others, according to the fize of the fifh intended to be caught in them. Thefe pieces of wicker-work (fome of whofefuperficies arc, at leall, twenty feet by twelve), are fixed up cdgewife in fhallow water, by flrong poles or pickets, that fland firm in the ground. Behind this ruined village is a plain of a few acres extent, covered with the largeft pine-trees that I ever faw. This was more remarkable, as the elevated ground, on moft other parts of this Weft fide of the Sound, was rather naked. From this place, I croffed over to the other, or Eaft fide of the Sound, paffing an arm of it that runs in North North Eaft, to appearance not far. I now found, what I had before conjectured, that the land, under which the fhips lay, was an ifland ; and that there were many fmaller ones lying fcattered in the Sound on the Weft fide of it. Oppofitc the North end of our large ifland, upon the main land, I obferved a village, and there I landed. The inhabitants of it were not fo polite as thofe of the other I had juft vifited. But this cold reception feemed, in a great meafure, if not entirely, owing to one furly Chief, who would not let me Vol. If. O o enter 1778; enter their houfes, following me wherever I went; and April. , v-' feveral times, by exprellive ligns, marking his impatience that 1 fhould be gone. I attempted in vain to footh him by prefents; but though he did not re f ufe them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better pleafed with us than was their inhofpitable Chief, dreffed themfelvcs expeditioufly in their beft apparel, and, aflem-bling in a body, welcomed us to their village, by joining in a long, which was far from harfh or difagrceable. The day being now far fpent, I proceeded for the fliips, round the North end of the large ifland ; meeting, in my way, with feveral canoes laden with fardincs, which had been juft caught, fomewhere in the Eaft corner of the Sound. When I got on board, I was informed, that, while I was ab-fent, the fliips had been vifited by fome ftrangers, in two or three large canoes, who, by figns, made our people underftand that they had come from the South Eaft, beyond the bay. They brought feveral fkins, garments, and other articles, which they bartered. But what was moft fingular, two filver table-fpoons were purchafed from them, which, from their peculiar fhape, we fuppofed to be of Spanifh manufacture. One of thefe ftrangers wore them round his neck, by way of ornament. Thefe vifiters alfo appeared to be more plentifully fupplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. The mizen-maft being finifhed, it was got in, and rigged, Tuefdayai. on the 21ft ; and the carpenters were fet to work to make a new fore-top-ma ft, to replace the one that had been carried away fome time before. Wednef. 22. Next morning, about eight o'clock, we were vifited by a number of ftrangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They came into the cove from the Southward; and as foon as they had turned the point of it, they flopped, and lay drawn drawn up in a body above half an hour, about two or three '77s; r J April. hundred yards from the Ihips. At firfl, we thought, that 1-r~> they were afraid to come nearer; but we were miftaken in this, and they were only preparing an introductory ceremony. On advancing toward the mips, they all flood up in their canoes, and began to ling. Some of their fongs, in which the whole body joined, were in allow, and others in in quicker time; and they accompanied their notes with the mofl regular motions of their hands ; or beating in concert, with their paddles, on the fides of the canoes; and making other very expreflive geflures. At the end of each ipng, they remained filent a few feconds, and then began again, fometimes pronouncing the word hooee! forcibly, as a chorus. After entertaining us with this fpecimen of their mufic, which we liflened to with admiration, for above half an hour, they came along fide the fhips, and bartered what they had to difpofc of. Some of our old friends of the Sound, were now found to be amongfl them ; and they took the whole management of the traffic between us and the Grangers, much to the advantage of the latter. Our attendance on thefe vifitcrs being fmifhed, Captain Clerke and I went, in the forenoon, with two boats, to the village at the Weft point of the Sound. When 1 wan there the clay before, I had obferved, that plenty of grafs grew near it; and it was neceffary to lay in a quantity of this, as food for the few goats and fheep which were £1111 left on board. The inhabitants received us with the fame demon-flrations of friendfhip which I had experienced before ; and the moment we landed, I ordered fome of my people to begin their operation of cutting. I had not the leafl imagination, that the natives could make any objection to our fur-nifhing ourfelves with what feemed to be of no ufe to them, O o 3 but ^77*j. but was neccfTary for us. However, I was miftaken ; fo*v u—*—t the moment that our men began to cut, fome of the inhabitants interpofed, and would not permit them to proceed, faying they mud 11 makook-" that is, mufl firfl buy it. I was now in one of the houfes; but as foon as I heard of this, I went to the field, where I found about a dozen of the natives, each of whom laid claim to fome part of the grafs that grew in this place. I bargained with them for it, and having completed the purchafe, thought that we were now at liberty to cut wherever we pleafed. But here, again, it appeared, that I was under a miflake j for the liberal manner in which I had paid the firfl pretended proprietors, brought frefh demands upon me from others; fo that there did not feem to be a fingle blade of grafs, that had not a feparate owner; and fo many of them were to be fatisfied, that I very foon emptied my pockets. When they found, that I really had nothing more to give, their importunities ceafcd, and we were permitted to cut wherever we pleafed, and as much as we chofe to carry away. Here I mufl obferve, that I have no where, in my feveral voyages, met with any uncivilized nation, or tribe, who had fuch Uriel: notions of their having a right to the exclufive property of every thing that their country produces, as the inhabitants of this Sound. At firfl, they wanted our people to pay for the wood and water that they carried on board; and had I been upon the fpot, when thefe demands were made, I fhould certainly have complied with them. Our workmen, in my abfence, thought differently j for they took but little notice of fuch claims; and the natives, when they found that we were determined to pay nothing, at laft ceafed to apply. But they made a merit of neceility ; and frequently afterward, took occafion to remind mind us, that they had given us wood and water out of friendship*. During the time I was at this village, Mr. Webber, who had attended me thither, made drawings of every thing that was curious, both within and without doors. I had alio an opportunity of infpecting, more narrowly, the con-ftrucTion of the houfes, houfehold furniture, and urenfils, and the flriking peculiarities of the cuftoms and modes of living of the inhabitants. Thefe fhall be defcribed in another place, in the beft manner I can, calling in to my aftift-ance the obfervations of Mr. Anderfon. When we had completed all our operations at this village, the natives and we parted very good friends; and we got back to the fhips in the afternoon. The three following days were employed in getting ready Thurfdaya to put to fea; the fails were bent; the obfervatories and in- Saturday4* flruments, brewing ve/fels, and other things, were moved from the fhore ; fome fmall fpars, for different ufes, and pieces of timber, which might be occafionally fawn into boards, were prepared and put on board; and both fhips were cleared, and put into a failing condition. Every thing being now ready, in the morning of the 26th, Sunday*5-I intended to have pur to fea; but both wind and tide being againft us, was obliged to wait till noon, when the South Weft wind was fuccecded by a calm ; and the tide turning * Similar to the behaviour of the natives of Nootka, on this occafion, was that of another tribe of Indians, farther North, in latitude 570 18', to the Spaniards, who had preceded Captain Cook only three years, in a voyage to explore the coaft of America, Northward of California. See the journal of that voyage, writ by the fecond pilot of the fleet, and pubiiilied by the Honourable Mr. Daines Barrington,. to whom the literary world, owes lb many obligations. Mifcellc—Reptiles.—Infe&s.—Stones, &c. —Perfons of the Inhabita?tts.—Their Colour.—Common Drefs and Ornaments.—Occafonal Dreffes, and mon-Jlrous Decorations of wooden Majks.—Their general Dif-poft ions.—Songs.—Mufical Inftruments.—Their Eager-nefs to pojfefs Iron and other Metals. ON my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound ; but I afterward found, that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is fitu-ated in the Eait corner of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 490 33' North, and in the longitude of 233* 12' Eafl. The Eafl coafl of that bay, all the way from Breakers Point to the entrance of the Sound, is covered by a chain of funken rocks, that feemed to extend fome diflance from the fhore ; and, near the Sound, are fome iflands and rocks above water. We enter this Sound between two rocky points, that lie Eafl South Eafl, and Wcfl North Well from each other, dif-tant between three and four miles. Within thefe points the Sound widens confiderably, and extends in, to the Northward, ward, four leagues at lcafl, exclufivc of the feveral branches T7?8- April. toward its bottom, the termination of which we had not an v________»_ opportunity to afcertain. Cut, from the circumflance of finding that the water frefhencd wThere our boats croifed their entrance, it is probable that they had almofl; reached its utmofl limits. And this probability is increafed by the hills that bounded it toward the land, being covered with thick fnow, when thofe toward the fea, or where wc lay, had not a fpeck remaining on them ; though, in general, they were much higher. In the middle of the Sound arc a number of iflands of various fizes. But the chart or fketch of the Sound, here annexed, though it has no pretenftons to accuracy, will, with all its imperfections, convey a better idea of thefe illands, and of the figure, and the extent of the Sound, than any written defcription. The depth of water in the middle of the Sound, and even clofe home to fome parts of its fhore, is from forty-feven to ninety fathoms, and perhaps more. The harbours, and anchoring-places within its circuit, are numerous ; but we had no time to furvey them. The cove in which our fliips lay is on the Eafl fide of the Sound, and on the Eafl fide of the largefl of the iflands. It is covered from the fea, but has little elfe to recommend it, being expofed to the South Eafl winds, which we found to blow, with great violence ; and the de-variation they make fometimes, was apparent in many places. The land bordering upon the fea-coafl is of a middling height and level; but within the Sound, it riles almofl every where into flecp hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with fome fharp, though not very prominent, ridges on their fides. Some of thefe hilia may be reckoned high, while others of them Vol. II. P p are jJ77.^- are of a very moderate height; but even the highcft are entirely covered to their tops with the thickeft woods ; as well as every flat part toward the fea. There are fometimes fpots upon the fides of fome of the hills which are bare; but they are few, in comparifon of the whole, though they fufh> eiently point out the general rocky difpofition of thefe hills. Properly fpeaking, they have no foil upon them, except a kind of compofl, produced from rotten mofTes and trees, of the depth of two feet or more. Their foundations are, therefore, to be confidered as nothing more than flupendous rocks, of a whitifh or grey eafl, where they have been expofed to the weather ; but, when broken, they appeared to be of a blucifh grey colour, like that univerfal fort which were found at Kerguelcn's Land. The rocky fhores are a continued mafs of this; and the little coves, in the Sound, have beaches compofed of fragments of it, with a few other pebbles. All thefe coves are furnifhed with a great quantity of fallen wood lying in them, which is carried in by the tide ; and with rills of frefh water, fufheient for the ufe a fhip, which feem to be fupplied entirely from the rains and fogs that hover about the tops of the hills. For few iprings can be expected in fo rocky a country, and the frefli water found farther up the Sound, moll probably arofe from the melting of the fnow; there being no room to fuf-pecf, that any large river falls into the Sound, either from ilrangers coming down it, or from any other circumftancei The water of thefe rills is perfectly clear, and diffolvea foap eafily. The weather, during our flay, correfponded pretty nearly with that which we had experienced off the coafl. That is, when the wind was any where between North and Well, the weather was fine and clear; but if to the Southward of • 8 Wefl, Weft, hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we had any experience of it, is infinitely milder than that on the Eaft coaft of America, under the fame parallel of latitude. The mercury in the thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 4s0; and very often, in the day, it rofe to 6o°. No fuch thing as froft was perceived in any of the low ground; on the contrary, vegetation had made a confiderable progrefs; for I met with grafs that was already above a foot long. The trees which chiefly compofe the woods, are the Canadian pine, white cyprefs, cyprcjfut tbyoidesy the wild pine, with two or three other forts of pine lefs common. The two firft make up almofl: two thirds of the whole; and, at a diflance, might be miftaken for the fame tree; as they both run up into pointed fpire-like tops; but they are cafily diftinguifhed on coming nearer, from their colour; the cyprefs being of a much paler green, or fhade, than the other. The trees, in general, grow with great vigour, and are all of a large fize. There is but little variety of other vegetable productions, though, doubtlefs, feveral had not yet fprung up at the early feafon when we vifited the place; and many more might be hid from the narrow fphere of our refearches. About the rocks, and verge of the woods, wc found ftraw-berry-plants, fome rafberry, currant, and goofebcrry bufhes; which were all in a moft flourifhing ftate ; with a few fmall black alder-trees. There arc, like wife, a fpecies of fow-thiftle; goofe-grafs; fome crow's-foot, which has a very fine crimfon flower; and two forts of anthcricum; one with a large orange flower, and the other with a blue one. We alfo found, in thefe iituations, fome wild rofc-bufhes, which P p 2 were were juft budding; a great quantity of young leeks, with triangular leaves ; a fmall fort of grafs; and fome water-creffes, which grow about the fides of the rills ; befides great abundance of andromeda. Within the woods, befides two forts of underwood fhrubs unknown to us, are moffes and ferns. Of the firfl of which, are feven or eight different forts j of the laft, not above three or four; and the fpecies of both, are moftly fuch as are common to Europe and America. As the feafon of the year was unfavourable to our gaining much knowledge of the vegetable productions of this country, fo our own fituation while there, put it out of our power to learn much about its animals. For as the want of water made it neceffary that we fhould enter the Sound at firft, the unforcfcen accidents which happened afterward, though they lengthened our flay, were rather unfavourable to our obtaining any knowledge of this kind. The emergency of the cafe required, that every perfon fhould be conftantly employed in the neceffary bufinefs of the fhips, which was the capital object; as the feafon was advancing very fall, and the fuccefs of the voyage depended upon their diligence and alacrity in expediting the various tafks afligned to them. Hence it happened, that cxcurfions of every kind, either on the land, or by water, were never attempted. And as we lay in a cove on an ifland, no other animals were ever feen alive in the woods there, than two or three racoons, martins, and fquirrels. Befides thefe, fome of our people who, one day, landed on the continent, near the South Eaft fide of the entrance of the Sound, obferved the prints of a bear's feet near the fhore. The account, therefore, that we can give of the quadrupeds, is taken from the fkins which the natives brought to fell; and thefe 9 were were often fo mutilated with refpect to the dim'nguifhing parts, fuch as the paws, tails, and heads, that it was im-poifible even to guefs at the animals to whom they belonged ; though others were fo perfect, or, at lead, fo well known, that they left no room to doubt about them. Of thefe the mofl common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The bear-fkins were in great numbers ; few of them very large ; but, in general, of a mining black colour. The deer-fkins were fcarcer, and they feem to belong to that fort called the fallow-deer by the hiflorians of Carolina; though Mr. Pennant thinks it quite a different fpecies from ours, and diftinguifhes it by the name of Virginian deer *. The foxes are in great plenty, and of feveral varieties'; fome of their fkins being quite yellow, with a black tip to the tail; others of a deep or reddilh yellow, intermixed with black ; and a third fort of a whitifh grey or afh-colour, alfo intermixed with black. Our people ufed to apply the name of fox or wolf indifcriminately, when the fkins were fo mutilated as to leave room for a doubt. But wc got, at lafl, an entire wolf's fkin with the head on ; and it was grey. Befides the common fort of martin, the pine-martin is alfo here ; and another, whofe fkin is of a lighter brown colour than either, with coarfer hair; but is not fo common, and is, perhaps, only a mere variety arifing from age, or fome other accidental circumflance. The ermine is alfo found at this place; but is rare and fmall; nor is the hair remarkably fine, though the animal appeared to be perfectly white, except an inch or more at the tip of the tail. The racoons and fquirrels are of the common fort; but the latter is rather fmaller than ours, and has a deeper ruily colour running along the back. * Sec Virginian deer; Pennant's Hilt. Quad, Vol, i. N°46 ; and Arftic Zool. N56. We We were clear as to the cxiflcnce of all the animals already mentioned ; but there are two others, befides, which we could not diftinguifh with fufficient certainty. Of the firft of thefe we faw none of the fkins, but what were dreffed or tanned like leather. The natives wear them on fome occafions; and, from the fize as well as thicknefs, they were generally concluded to belong to the eilr, or moufc-deer; though fome of them perhaps might belong to the buffalo. The other animal, which feems by no means rare, was gucilcd to be a fpecies of the wild cat or lynx. The length of the fkins, without the head, which none of them had, wTas about two feet two inches. They are covered with a very fine wool or fur, of a very light brown or whitifh yellow colour, intermixed with long hairs, which on the back, where they are fhorteft, are blackifh; on the fides, where they are longer, of a filver white; and on the belly, where they are longeft, of the colour of the wool; but the whitifh, or filver hairs, are often fo predominant, that the whole animal acquires a eaft of that kind. The tail is only three inches long, and has a black tip. The whole fkin being, by the natives, called ivanjhee; that, moft probably, is their name for this animal. Hogs, dogs, and goats, have not as yet found their way to this place. Nor do the natives feem to have any knowledge of our brown rats, to which, when they faw them on board the fliips, they applied the name they give to fquirrels. And though they called our goats evicctla, this, moft probably, is their name for a young deer or fawn. The fea animals fecn off the coaft, were whales, por-poifes, and feals. The laft of thefe feem only of the common fort, judging from the fkins which we faw here; their colour being either filverly, yellowifli, plain, or fpotted, with black. black. The porpoife is the phocena. I have chofen to refer to this clafs the fea-otter, as living moltly in the water. It might have been fufficient to have mentioned, that this animal abounds here, as it is fully defcribed in different books, taken from the accounts of the Ruffian adventurers in their expeditions Eaflwafd from Kamtfchatka, if there had not been a fmall difference in one that we faw. We, for fome time, entertained doubts, whether the many fkins which the natives brought, really belonged to this animal; as our only rcafon for being of that opinion, was founded on the fize, colour, and fmcnefs of the fur-, till a fhort while before our departure, when a whole one, that had been jufl killed, was purchafed from fome flrangers who came to barter; and of this Mr. Webber made a drawing. It was rather young, weighing only twenty-five pounds ; of a mining or gloffy black colour ; but many of the hairs being tipt with white, gave it a greyifh call at firfl fight. The face, throat, and breaft were of a yellowifh white, or very light brown colour, which, in many of the fkins, extended the whole length of the belly. It had fix cutting teeth in each jaw ; two of thofe of the lower jaw being very minute, and placed without, at the bale of the two middle ones. In thefe circumftances, it feems to difagree with thofe found by the Ruffians ; and alfo in not having the outer toes of the hind feet fkirted with a membrane. There feemed alfo a greater variety in the colour of the. fkins, than is mentioned by the defcribcrs of the Ruffian fea-otters. Thefe changes of colour certainly take place at the different gra^ dations of life. The very young ones had brown hair, which was coarfe, with very little fur underneath ; but thofe of the fize of the entire animal, which came into our pof-feffion, and juft defcribed, had a confiderable quantity of that, that fubflance ; and both in that colour and ftate the fea-otters feem to remain, till they have attained their full growth. After that, they lofe the black colour, and aflume a deep brown or footy colour; but have then a greater quantity of very fine fur, and fcarcely any long hairs. Others, which we fufpected to be ftill older, were of a chefnut brown ; and a few fkins were feen that had even acquired a perfectly yellow colour. The fur of thefe animals, as mentioned in the Ruffian accounts, is certainly fofter and finer than that of any others we know of ; and, therefore, the difcovery of this part of the continent of North America, where fo valuable an article of commerce may be met with, cannot be a matter of indifference *. Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different fpecies, but very fcarce as to numbers; and thefe few are fo fhy, that, in all probability, they are continually ha-raffed by the natives j perhaps to eat them as food, certainly to get poffeflion of their feathers, which they ufe as ornaments. Thofe which frequent the woods, are crows and ravens, not at all different from our Englifh ones ; a blueifh jay or magpie; common wrens, which are the only ringing bird that we heard; the Canadian, or migrating thrufh ; and a confiderable number of brown eagles, with white heads and tails; which, though they feem principally to frequent the coaft, come into the Sound in bad weather, and fometimes perch upon the trees. Amongfl fome other birds, of which the natives either brought fragments, or dried fkins, we could diftinguifh a fmall fpecies of hawk; a heron; and the alcyon, or large-crefted American king- * Mr. Coxe, on the authority of Mr, Pallas, informs us, that the old and middle-aged fea-otters fkins are fold, at Kiachta, by the Ruffians, to the Chinefe, from 80 to 100 rubles a (kin; that ii, from 16I. to 201. each. See Goxfs Ruffian DifcQveries, p. 13. fifher. fifher. There are alfo fome, which, I believe, are not men- '77b- r 1 April. tioncd, or at leaft vary, very confiderably, from the accounts *—v—/ given of them by any writers who have treated profefledly on this part of natural hiflory. The two firft of thefe arc fpecies of wood-peckers. One lefs than a thrufh, of a black colour above, with white fpots on the wings, a c rim fori head, neck and breaft, and a ycllowifh olive-coloured belly; from which laft circumftancc it might, perhaps, not improperly be called the yellow-bellied wood-pecker. The other is a larger, and much more elegant bird, of a dufky brown colour, on the upper parr, richly waved with black, except about the head; the belly of a reddifh eaft, with round black fpots; a black fpot on the breaft; and the under- fide of the wings and tail of a plain fcarlet colour, though blackifh above ; with a crimfon ftreak running from the angle of the mouth, a little down the neck on each fide. The third and fourth, are a fmall bird of the finch kind, about the fize of a linnet, of a dark dufky colour, whitifh below, with a black head and neck, and white bill; and a fand-pipcr, of the fize of a fmall pigeon, of a dufky brown colour, and white below, except the throat and breaft, with a broad white band acrofs the wings. There are alfo humming-birds; which yet feem to differ from the numerous forts of this delicate animal already known, unlefs they be a mere variety of the t roe hi!us colubris of Linnams. Thefe, perhaps, inhabit more to the Southward, and fpread Northward as the feafon advances ; becaufe we faw none at firft, though, near the time of our departure, the natives brought them to the fhips in great numbers. The birds which frequent the waters and the fhores, are not more numerous than the others. The quebrantahueflbs, gulls, and mags were fecn off the coaft; and the two laft Vol. II. Qj\ alfo alfo frequent the Sound. They are of the common forts; the ihags being our cormorant or water-crow. We faw two forts of wild-ducks ; one black, with a white head, which were in confiderable flocks ; the other white, with a red bill, but of a larger fize ; and the greater lummt, or diver, found in our northern countries. There were alfo feen, once or twice, fome fwans flying acrofs the Sound to the Northward; hut we knew nothing of their haunts. On the fhores, befides the fand-piper, defcribed above, we found another, about the fize of a lark, which bears a great affinity to the burre ; and a plover differing very little from our common fea-lark. Fifh arc more plentiful in quantity than birds, though the variety is not very great; and yet, from feveral circum-flances, it is probable, that even the variety is confiderably increafed at certain feafons. The principal forts, which wc found in great numbers, are the common herring, but fcarcely exceeding feven inches in length; a fmallcr fort, which is the fame with the anchovy, or fardine, though rather larger; a white, or filver-coloured bream, and another of a gold-brown colour, with many narrow longitudinal blue flripes. The herrings and fardines, doubtlefs, come in large fhoals, and only at flated feafons, as is common with that fort of fifh. The bream, of both forts, may be reckoned the next to thefe in quantity; and the full grown ones weighed, at leaft, a pound. The other fifh, which are all fcarce, are a fmall brown kind of fcnlpin, fuch as is found on the coafl of Norway ; another of a brownifh red eafl; frofl-fifh; a large one, fomewhat refembling the bull-head, with a tough fkin, deflitute of fcales; and now and then, toward the time of our leaving the Sound, the natives brought a fmall brownifh cod, fpotted with white ; 5 and and a red fifh of the fame fize, which fome of our people "778 r April. faid they had feen in the Straits of Magellan \ befides an-other differing little from the hake. There are alfo conft-- derable numbers of thofe fifh called the cb'wKene, or little fea wolves, by fome; which is a-kin to, and about the fize of, the pezegalloy or elcphant-filh. Sharks, likewife, fometimes frequent the Sound; for the natives have fome of their teeth in their poffelfion ; and we faw fome pieces of, ray, or fcate, which feemed to have been pretty large. The other marine animals that ought to be mentioned here, are a fmall cru-Ciated medufa, or blubber; ftar-fifh, which differ fomewhat from the common ones; two fmall forts of crabs; and two others, which the natives brought; one of them of a thick, tough, gelatinous confiftcnce; and the other a fort of membranaceous tube or pipe, both which are probably taken from the rocks. And we, alfo, purchafed from them, once, a very large cuttle-fifh. There is abundance of large mufcles about the rocks ; many fea-ears ; and we often faw fhells of pretty large plain charnt* The fmaller forts are fome trochi of two fpecies; a curious murex\ rugged wilks; and a fnail; all which are, probably, peculiar to this place; at lead I do not recollect to have feen them in any country near the fame latitude, in either hemifphere. There are, befides thefe, fome fmall plain cockles, limpets ; and fome ftrangers, who came into the Sound, wore necklaces of a fmall bluifh volute, or pana-mat. Many of the mufcles are a fpan in length; and fome having pretty large pearls ; which, however, are both badly fhaped and coloured. We may conclude, that there is red coral in the Sound, orfomewherc upon the coaft; fome thick pieces, or branches, having been feen in the canoes of the natives. Q^q 2 The The only animals of the reptile kind obferved here, and found in the woods, were brown fnakes two feet long, with whitifh flripes on the back and fides ; which are harmlefs, as we often faw the natives carry them alive in their hands; and brownifh water-lizards, with a tail exactly like that of an eel, which frequented the fmall Handing pools about the rocks. The infect tribe feem to be more numerous. For though the feafon, which is peculiarly fitted to their appearing abroad was only beginning, we faw four or five different forts of butterflies, none of which were uncommon ; a good many humble-bees; fome of our common goofeberry moths ; two or three forts of flies ; a few beetles ; and fome mufquitoes, which, probably, may be more numerous and troublcfome in a country fo full of wood, during the Summer, though at this time they did little mifchief. As to the mineral fubflances in this country, though we found both iron and copper here, there is little reafon to believe that either of them belong to the place. Neither were the ores of any metal feen, if we except a coarfe, red* earthy, or ochry fubflance, ufed by the natives in painting thcmfelves, which probably may contain a little iron ; with a white and a black pigment ufed for the fame purpofe. But we did not procure fpecimens of them, and therefore cannot pofitively determine what are their component parts. Befides the flone or rock that conflitutes the mountains and mores, which fometimes contains pieces of very coarfe quartz, we found, amongfl the natives things made of a hard black granite, though not remarkably compact or fine grained; a greyifh whetflone ;. the common oil flone of our i carpenters, carpenters, in coarfer and finer pieces; and' fome black bits which are little inferior to the hone-flone. The natives alfo ufe the tranfparcnt leafy glimmer, or Mufcovy glafs ; a brown leafy or martial fort; and they, fometimes, brought to us pieces of rock-cryftal, tolerably tranfparenr. The two firft are, probably, found near the fpot, as they feemed to be in confiderable quantities; but the latter feems to be brought from a greater diflance, or is very fcarce ; for our vifiters always parted with it reluctantly. Some of the pieces were octangular, and had the appearance of being formed into that fhape by art. The perfons of the natives are, in general, under the common ftature ; but not flender in proportion, being commonly pretty full or plump, though not mufcular. Neither doth the foft flefhinefs feem ever to fwell into corpulence; and many of the older people are rather fpare, or lean. The vifage of mofl of them is round and full; and fometimes, alfo, broad, with high prominent cheeks; and, above thefe, the face is frequendy much depreffed, or feems fallen in quite acrofs between the temples ; the nofe alfo flattening at its bafe, with pretty wide noflrils, and a rounded point.. The forehead rather low; the eyes fmall, black, and rather languifhing than fparkling ; the mouth round, with large round thickifh lips; the teeth tolerably equal and well fet, but not remarkably white. They have either no beards at all, which was mofl commonly the cafe, or a fmall thin one upon the point of the chin ; which does not arife from any natural defect of hair on that part, but from plucking it out more or lefs; for fome of them, and particularly the old men, have not only confiderable beards all over the chin, but whifkers, or muftachios; both on the upper lip, and running from thence toward the lower jaw obliquely •102 A VOYAGE TO ■77*- liquely downward*. Their eye-brows are alfo fcanty, and t—y-^» always narrow; but the hair of the head is in great abundance, very coarfe and flrong; and, without a fmgle excep* * One of the mofl: curious fmgularitics obfervable in the natural hiftory of the human fpecies, is the fuppofed defect in the habit and temperature of the bodies of the American Indians, exemplified in their having no beards, while they are furniflied with a profufion of hair on their heads. M. de Paw, the ingenious author of Recberches fur Us Amtrkains j Dr. Robcrtfon, in his Hijhry of America \ and, in general, the writers for whole authority we ought to have the higheft deference, adopt this as an indifputablc matter of fact. May we not be permitted to requcft thofe who efpoufc their fentiments, to reconfider the queftion, when we can produce Captain Cook's evidence on the oppolitc fide, at leaft fo far as relates to the American tribe, whom he had intercourfe with at Nootka ? Nor is Captain Cook finguiar in his report. What he faw on the fea coaft, Captain Carver aJfo met with amongfl: the American Indians far up in the country. His words arc as follow: "From minute inquiries, and a " curious infpection, I am able to declare (however refpectable I may hold the autho-" rity of thefe Hiftorians in other points), that their aflertions are erroneous, and pro* " cceding from a want of a thorough knowledge of the cuftoms of the Indians. After " the age of puberty, their bodies, in their natural ftate, are covered in the fame man-'* ner as thofe of the Europeans. The men, indeed, eftcem a beard very unbecoming, '* and take great pains to get rid of it; nor is there any ever to be perceived on their N faces, except when they grow old, and become inattentive to appearances.—The ** NaudowefTes, and the remote nations, pluck them out with bent pieces of hard ** wood, formed into a kind of nippers ; whilft thofe who have communication *< with Europeans, procure from them wire, which they twift into a fcrew or worm ; " applying this to the part, they prefs the rings together, and with a fudden {witch ** draw out all the hairs that are inclofed in them." Carver's Travels, p. 22jU 225. The remark made by Mr. Marfden, who alfo quotes Carver, is worth attending to, that the vizor or mafk of Montezuma's armour, preferved at BrufTcls, has remarkably large whifkers ; and that thofe Americans could not have imitated this ornament, unlefs nature had prefented them with the model. From Captain Cook's obfervation on the Weft coaft of North America, combined with Carver's in the inland parts of that continent, and confirmed by the Mexican Vizor as above, there feems abundant renfon to agree with Mr. Marfden, who thus modeflly expreffes himfelf: " Were it not for the numerous and very refpectable authorities, from which we are afliited that the na-" tives of America are naturally beardlefs, I fhould think that the common opinion " on that fubject had been haftijy adopted ; and that their appearing thus at a mature 6* age, was only the confequence of an early practice, ilmilar to that obferved among *< the Sumatrans. Even now, I mull confefs, that it would remove fome fmall degree « of doubt from my mind, could it be afceruined that no fuch cuftorn prevails," Marfden'1! Hiflory of Sumatra, p. 39, 40. tion, tion, black, flraight, and lank, or hanging down over the x77?-flioulders. The neck is fhort j the arms and body have no particular mark of beauty or elegance in their formation, but are rather clumfy ; and the limbs, in all, are very fmall in proportion to the other parts, and crooked, or ill made, with large feet badly fhaped, and projecting ankles. This lafl defect feems, in a great meafure, to arife from their iiiting fo much on their hams or knees, both in their canoes and houfes. Their colour we could never pofitively determine, as their bodies were incrufled with paint and dirt; though, in particular cafes, when thefe were well rubbed off, the whitenefs of the fkin appeared almofl to equal that of Europeans; though rather of that pale effete eafl which diftinguifhes thofe of our Southern nations. Their children, whofc fkins had never been flained with paint, alfo equalled ours in whitenefs. During their youth, fome of them have no dif-agreeablc look, if compared to the generality of the people; but this feems to be entirely owing to the particular animation attending that period of life; for, after attaining a certain age, there is hardly any diflinction. Upon the whole, a very remarkable famenefs feems to characterize the countenances of the whole nation j a dull phlegmatic want of cxprcflion, with very little variation, being flrongly marked in all of them. The women are nearly of the fame fize, colour, and form, with the men; from whom it is not eafy to diflinguilh them, as they poffefs no natural delicacies fufficient to render their perfons agreeable; and hardly any one was feen, even amongft thofe who were in the prime of life, who had the leail pretenfions to be called hand fome. Their 3 or the object of his difplcafure. In fuch cafes they never difcovcr the leaft fymptom of timidity, but feem determined, at all events, to'punifh the infult. For, even with refpect to us, they never appeared to be under the leaft apprchcnfion of our fuperiority ; but when any difference happened, were jud as ready to avenge the wrong, as amongrt thcmfclves. Their other paffions, especially their curiofity, appear in fome meafure to lie dormant. For few expreffed any defire to fee or examine things wholly unknown to them ; and which, to thofe truly pollened of that pafhon, would have appeared aftonifliing. They were always contented to procure the articles they knew and wanted, regarding every thing elfc with great indifference ; nor did our perfons, apparel, and manners, fo different from their own, or even the extraordinary fize and condruction of our fliips, feem to excite admiration, or even engage attention. One caufe of this may be their indolence, which feems confiderable. But, on the other hand, they are certainly not wholly unfufccptiblc of the tender paflions ; if we may judge from their being fo fond of mufic, which is modly of the grave or ferious, but truly pathetic fort. They keep the exacted concert in their fongs, which are often fung by great numbers together, as thofe already mentioned, with which they ufed to entertain us in their canoes. Thefe arc generally flow and folemn; but the mufic is not of that confined fort found amongll many rude nations ; for the variations arc very numerous and exprcilive, and the cadence or melody powerfully foothing. Befides their full concerts, fonncts of the fame grave cad were frequently fung by tingle performers, who keep time by driking the hand 3 againft againft the thigh. However, the mufic was fometimes varied, from its predominant folemnity of air j and there were inftances of flanzas being fung in a more gay and lively ftrain, and even with a degree of humour. The only inftruments of mufic (if fuch they may be called) which I faw amongfl; them, were a rattle; and a fmali whiffle, about an inch long, incapable of any variation, from having but one hole. They ufe the rattle when they fine ; but upon what occafions they ufe the whilllc I know not, unlefs it be when they drefs themfclves like particular animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. I once faw one of them dreffed in a wolf's fkin, with the head over his own, and imitating that animal by making a fqueaking noife with one of thefe whiffles, which he had in his mouth. The rattles are, for the moft part, made in the fhape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly and the tail is the handle. They have others, however, that bear rather more refemblance to a child's rattle. » In trafficking with us, fome of them would betray a knavifh difpofition, and carry off our goods without making any return. But, in general, it was otherwife $ and we had abundant reafon to commend the fairnefs of their conduci:. However, their cagcrnefs to poilefs iron and brafs, and, indeed, any kind of metal, was fo great, that few of them could refill the temptation to ileal it, whenever an opportunity offered. The inhabitants of the South Sea Iflands, as appears from a variety cf inftances in the courfe of this voyage, rather than be idle, would ileal any thing that they could lay their hands upon, without ever confidering, whether it could be of ufe to them or no, The novelty of the object, with them, was a fufUcient motive for their endeavouring, jtif* vouring, by any indirect means, to get poftcflion of it; ^—i,—t which marked that, in fuch cafes, they were rather actuated by a childilh curiofuy, than by a difhoncft difpofition, re-gardlcfs of the modes of fupplying real wants. The inhabitants of Nootka, who invaded our property, cannot have fuch apology made for them. They were thieves in the ftrkteft fenfe of the word ; for they pilfered nothing from us, but what they knew could be converted to the purpofes of private utility, and had a real value according to their eftimation of things. And it was lucky for us, that nothing was thought valuable by them, but the finglc articles of our mecals. Linen, and fuch like things, were perfectly fc-cure from their depredations ; and we could fafely leave them hanging out afhore all night, without watching. The fame principle which prompted our Nootka friends to pilfer from us, it was natural to fuppofe, would produce a fimilar conduct in their intercourfe with each other. And, accordingly, we had abundant reafon to believe, that dealing is much practifed amongfl them ; and that it chiefly gives rife to their quarrels; of which wc law more than one inftance. C H A p. CHAP. 111. i Manner of building the Houfes in Nootka Sound.—Infide of them defcribed.—Furniture and Utenfls.—Wooden Images.—Employments of the Men.—Of the Women.— Food, animal and vegetable.—Matifier of preparing it* —Weapons.—Manufactures a?id mecha?tic Arts.— Carving and Painting.—Canoes.—Implements for fijhhig a?id hunting,—Iron Tools.—Manner of procuring that Metal.—Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.—Afrononiical and nautical Obfervations made in Nootka Sound. THE two towns or villages, mentioned in the courfe of my Journal, feem to be the only inhabited parts of the Sound. The number of inhabitants in both might be pretty exactly computed from the canoes that were about the fliips the fecond day after our arrival. They amounted to about a hundred; which, at a very moderate allowance, mufl, upon an average, have held five perfons each. But as there were fcarcely any women, very old men, children, or youths amongfl them at that time, I think it will rather be rating the number of the inhabitants of the two towns too low, if we fuppofe they could be lefs than four times the number of our vifiters; that is, two thoufand in the whole. The village at the entrance of the Sound flands on the fide of a rifing ground, which has a pretty flecp afcent Vol. II, S f from from the beach to the verge of the wood, in which fpacc It is fituated. The houfes are difpofed in three ranges or rows, rifing gradually behind each other; the large ft being that in front, and the others lefs ; befides a few ftraggling, or fingle ones, at each end. Thefe ranges are interrupted or disjoined at irregular diftances, by narrow paths, or lanes, that pafs upward; but thofe which run in the direction of the houfes, between the rows, are much broader. Though there be fome appearance of regularity in this difpofition, there is none in the fingle houfes; for each of the divifions, made by the paths, may be confidered either as one houfe, or as many; there being no regular or complete reparation, either without or within, to diflinguifh them by. They are built of very long and broad planks *, refling upon the edges of each other, fattened or tied by withes of pine bark, here and there; and have only flcndcr potts, or rather poles, at confiderable diftances, on the outfide, to which they alfo are tied but within arc fome larger poles placed aflant. The height of the fides and ends of thefe habitations, is feven or eight feet; but the back part is a little higher, by which means the planks, that compofc the roof, flant forward, and are laid on loofe, fo as to be moved about j either to be put clofe, to exclude the rain; or, in fair weather, to be feparated, to let in the light, and carry out the fmoke. They arc, however, upon the whole, miferable dwellings, and conflruclcd with little care or ingenuity. For, though the fide-planks be made to fit pretty clofely in * The habitations of the natives, more to the Nor:h upon this coaft, where Behring'speople landed in 1741, feem to refemble thofe of Nootka. Mullcr defcribes them thus: Ces cabanes ctoient de bois revctu de planches bien unies, & memo en- chantrees en cjudques endroits." Muller, Dmuvertes, p. 255. 7 fome fome places, in others they are quite open; and there arc no regular doors into them ; the only way of entrance being —-——' either by a hole, where the unequal length of the planks has accidentally left an opening ; or, in fome cafes, the planks are made to pafs a little beyond each other, or overlap, about two feet afunder; and the entrance is in this fpacc. There are alfo holes, or windows, in the fides of the houfes to look out at; but without any regularity of fhape or difpofition ; and thefe have bits of mat hung before them, to prevent the rain getting in. On the infide, one may frequently fee from one end to the other of thefe ranges of building without interruption. . For though, in general, there be the rudiments, or rather veftiges, of fcparations on each fide, for the accommodation of different families, they are fuch as do not intercept the fight; and often confift of no more than pieces of plank, running from the fide toward the middle of the houfe; fo that, if they were complete, the whole might be compared to a long liable, with a double range of flails, and a broad paifagc in the middle. Clofe to the fides, in each of thefe parts, is a little bench of boards, raifed five or fix inches higher than the refl of the floor, and covered with mats, on which the family fit and flcep. Thefe benches arc commonly feven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In the middle of the floor, between them, is the fire-place, which has neither hearth nor chimney. In one houfe, which was in the end of a middle range, almofl quite feparated from the refl by a high clofe partition, and the mofl regular, as to defign, of any that I faw, there were four of thefe benches; each of which held a fingle family, at a corner, but without any feparation by boards; and the middle part of the houfe appeared common to them all. Sf 2 Their Their furniture confifts chiefly of a great number of chefls and boxes of all fizes, which are generally piled upon each other, clofe to the fides or ends of the houfe ; and contain their fpare garments, fkins, mafks, and other things which they fet a value upon. Some of thefe are double, or one covers the other as a lid ; others have a lid faliened with thongs; and fome of the very large ones have a fquare hole, or fcuttle, cut in the upper part; by which the things are put in and taken out. They are often painted black, ftudded with the teeth of different animals, or carved with a kind of frecze-work, and figures of birds or animals, as decorations. Their other domeftic utenfils-are moftly fquare and oblong pails or buckets to hold water and other things; round wooden cups and bowls; and fmall mallow wooden troughs, about two feet long, out of which they eat their food; and bafkets of twigs, bags of matting, &c. Their fifhing implements, and other things alfo, lie or hang up in different parts of the houfe, but without the leaft order; fo that the whole is a complete fcene of confufion ; and the only places that do not partake of this confufion are the ileeping-benches, that have nothing on them but the mats; which are alfo cleaner, or of a finer fort, than thofe they commonly have to fit on in their boats. The naftinefs and flench of their houfes are, however, at leaft equal to the confufion. For, as they dry their fifh within doors, they alfo gut them there, which, with their bones and fragments thrown down at meals, and the addition of other forts of filth, lie every where in heaps, and are, I believe, never carried away, till it becomes trouble-fome, from their fize, to walk over them. In a word, their houfes are as filthy as hog-fties; every thing in and about them (linking of fifh, train-oil, and fmoke. 8 But, But, amidfl all the filth and confufion that are found in the houfes, many of them are decorated with images. Thefe are nothing more than the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, fet upfingly, or by pairs, at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human face; the arms and hands cut out upon the fides, and varioufly painted; fo that the whole is a truly monflrous figure. The general name of thefe images is Klumma\ and the names of two particular ones, which flood abreaff of each other, three or four feet afunder, in one of the houfes, were Natchkoa and Matfceta. Mr. Webber's view of the infide of a Nootka -houfe, in which thefe images are reprefented, will convey a more perfect idea of them than any defcription. A mat, by way of curtain, for the mofl part hung before them, which the natives were not willing, at all times, to remove \ and when they did unveil them, they feemed to fpeak of them in a very myflerious manner. It fhould feem that they are, at times, accuflomed to make offerings to them j if we can draw this inference from their defiring us, as we interpreted their figns, to give fomething to thefe images, when they drew afide the mats that covered them *. It was natural, from * It fhould feem, that Mr. Webber was obliged to repeat his offerings pretty frequently, before he could be permitted to fiaiifh his drawing of thefe images. The following account is in his own words : M After having made a general view of their •* habitations, I fought for an infide, which might furnifh me with fufficient matter " to convey a perfect idea of the mode in which thefe people live. Such was foon *4 found. While I was employed, a man approached me with a large knife in his •* hand, feemingly difpleafed, when he obferved that my eyes were fixed on two repre-*' fentations of human figures, which were placed at one end of the apartment, carv-M ed on planks, of a gigantic proportion, and painted after their cuftorn. However, *' I took as little notice of him as po/fible, and proceeded; to prevent which, he foon " provided himfelf with a mat, and placed it in fuch a manner as to hinder my having '* any longer a fight of them. Being pretty certain that I could have no future op-** portunity to finifh my drawing, and the object being too intcrefting to be omitted, " 1 con- from thefe circumflances, for us to think that they were rc-prefenta'tives of their gods, or fymbols of fome religious or fupcrllitious object: and yet we had proofs of the little real cilimation they were in ; for with a fmall quantity of iron or brafs, I could have purchafed all the gods (if their images were fuch) in the place. I did not fee one that was not offered to me; and I actually got two or three of the very fmallefl fort. The chief employment of the men feems to be that of fifhing, and killing land or fea animals, for the fuflenance of their families ; for we faw few of them doing any thing in the houfes ; whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and in preparing the fardines for drying ; which they alfo carry up from the beach in twig-bafkets, after the men have brought them in their canoes. The women are alfo fent in the fmall canoes to gather mufcles, and other fhell-fifh; and perhaps on fome other occafions; for they manage thefe with as much dexterity as the men; who, when in the canoes with them, feem to pay little attention to their fex, by offering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle; nor, indeed, do they treat them with any particular refpect. or tendcrnefs in other fituations. The young men appeared to be the mofl indolent or idle fet in this community; for they were either fitting about, in fcattercd companies, to bafk ** I confulered that a little bribery might probably have fome cft'eft. Accordingly I *' made an offer of a button from my coat, which, being of metal, I thought they 11 would be pleafed with. This, inftanfly, produced the defrred efTect. For the mat f was removed, and I was left at liberty to proceed us before. Scarcely had I feated •" myfelf, and made a beginning, when he returned and renewed his former practice, ** continuing it till I had parted with every fingle button ; and when he fayy that he .** had completely ilripped me, I met with no further obftruclion." thcmfelves T H E PACIFIC OCEAN. 319 ihcmfelvcs in the fun; or lay wallowing in the fand upon J77s- April. the beach, like a number of hogs, for the fame purpofe, '-«—+ without any covering. But this difregard of decency was confined to the men. The women were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmofl propriety; juflly defending all commendation, for a bafhfulnefs and modefty becoming their fex; but more meritorious in them, as the men feem to have no fenfe of fhame. Ic is impoffible, however, that we fhould have been able to obferve the exact mode of their domeftic life and employments, from a fingle vifit (as the firft was quite tranfitory) of a few hours. For it may be cafily fuppofed, that, on fuch an occafion, moft of the labour of all the inhabitants of the village would ceafe upon our arrival, and an interruption be given even to the ufual manner of appearing in their houfes, during their more remifs or fociable hours, when left to themfelvcs. We were much better enabled to form fome judgment of their difpofition, and, in fome meafure, even of their method of living, from the frequent vifits fo many of them paid us at our fhips, in their canoes ; in which, it fhould feem, they fpend a great deal of time, at leaft in the fummcr feafon. For we obferved that they not only eat and deep frequently in them, but ftrip off their clothes, and lay them fe Ives along to bafk in the fun, in the fame manner as we had feen practifed at their village. Their canoes of the larger fort, arc, indeed, fufiiciently fpacious for that purpofe, and perfectly dry ; fo that, under flicker of a fkin, they are, except in rainy weather, much more comfortable habitations than their houfes. Though their food, ftrictly fpcaking, may be faid233° 17' 30", 5'" But by reducing each fet taken before"' we arrived in the Sound, and after we left it, by the time-keeper, and adding them up with thofe made on the fpot, the mean of the 137 fets will be Longitude by the ( Greenwich rate - 2350 46' 51", o time-keeper £ Ulietea rate - 2330 59' 24", o From the refults of the laft fifteen days obfervations of equal altitudes of the Sun, the daily rate of the time-keeper was lofing, on mean time, 7" -, and on the 16th of April, fhe was too flow for mean time, by i6h om 58", 45. There was found an irregularity in her rate, greater than at any time before. It was thought proper to reject the firfl five days, as the rate in them differed fo much from that of the fifteen following; and even in thefe, each day differed from another more than ufual. Variation of the Compafs. . .. V t A.M. 1 Obfervatory, t it° 57' , Apn' 4th> t P. M. { Mean of four needles \ ?f V [ ** ¥ ^" ■* 5th. r A. M. ? On board the fhip, # 190 50' 49" 7 17th. IP. M. J Mean of four needles } 19 38' 46" i I9° 44' 37 The variation found on board the fhip, ought to be taken for the true one •, not only as it agreed with what we obferved at fea; but becaufe it was found, that there was fomething afhore that had a confiderable effect upon the compalfes; in fome places more than others. At one fpot, on the Well point of the Sound, the needle was attracted 114 points from its proper direction. 7 Inclination Inclination of the dipping Needle. April 5th. On board with ba»f Marked 7 End North r 710 26' 22f" 7 lanced needle 1 Unmarked 1 and dipping [ 710 54' 22\" \ }} 4° The fame needle ate Marked ? End North r 720 3' 45" ? the obfervatory £ Unmarked J and dipping } 71° 56' 15" J '° ° ° 0, - - t Marked 7 End North r 710 58' 20" 7 0 , „ 18th. Ditto - - - X i \' 3 S72 7 15 t Unmarked i and dipping c 720 r6 10 J 5th. Spare needle at C Marked 7 End North r 72" 32' 30" 7 o the obervatory 1 Unmarked j and dipping | 730 6' 0' 49 ^ c Marked 7 End North f 7 20 o" -> 18th. Ditto - - - j \ jo q/ „ f 73° Ii' 45" t Unmarked J and dipping t 73 28 30 J/J T* l2d. Sparc needle on f Marked j End North r 73° 28' 38" 1 o . board - - c. Unmarked } and clipping L yi° 53' 30" 11 0 Hence the mean dip, with both needles, on fhore, was - 720 32' 3*" Onboard - - - - - - 720 25' 41 J" This is as near as can be expected j and mews, that whatever it was that affected the compafTcs, whether on board or afhore, it had no effect upon the dipping needles. Tides. It is high-water on the days of the new and full moon, at 12k 2o'\ The perpendicular rife and fall, eight feet nine inches; which is to be underftood of the day-tides, and thofe which happen two or three days after the full and new moon. The night tides, at this time, rife near two feet higher. This was very confpicuous during the fpring-tide of the full moon, which happened foon after our arrival; and it was obvious, that it would be the fame in thofe of the new moon, though we did not remain here long enough to fee the whole of its effect. Some circumftances, that occurred daily, relating to this, defcrve particular notice. In the cove where we got wood X x 2 and and water, was a great deal of drift-wood thrown afhore; a part of which we had to remove, to come at the water. It often happened, that large pieces or trees, which we had removed in the day, out of the reach of the then high-water, were found, the next morning, floated again in our way; and all our fpouts, for conveying down the water, thrown out of their places, which were immoveable during the day tides. We alfo found, that wood, which we had fplit up for fuel, and had depofited beyond the reach of the day tide, floated away during the night. Some of thefe circumftances happened every night or morning, for three or four days in the height of the fpring-tides ; during which time we were obliged to attend every morning tide, to remove the large logs out of the way of watering. I cannot fay, whether the flood-tide falls into the Sound from the North Weft, South Weft, or South Eafl. I think it does not come from the laft quarter ; but this is only conjecture, founded upon the following obfervations: The South Eafl gales, which we had in the Sound, were fo far from increasing the rife of the tide, that they rather diminifhed it; which would hardly have happened, if the flood and wind had been in the fame direction. C H A P. C HA P. IV. A Storm, after failing from Nootka Sound. — Reflation fprings a Leak.—Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte paffed unexa7nined — Progrefs along the Coaf of America.—Behrings Bay.—Kayes If and.—Account of it* —The Ships come to an Anchor.—Vif ted by the Natives.—Their Behaviour.—Fondnefs for Beads and Iron* —Attempt to plunder the Difcovery.—Refolutions Leak flopped.—Progrefs up the Sound. — Mejfrs. Gore and Roberts fent to exa7nine its Extent.—Reafons againft a Paffage to the North through it.—The Ships proceed down it, to the ope?t Sea. T T AVING put to fea, on the evening of the 26th, as ^ O before related, with -flrong figns of an approaching |-— florm ; thefe figns did not deceive us. We were hardly out of the Sound, before the wind, in an inflant, fhifted from North Eafl to South Eafl by Eafl, and increafed to a flrong gale, with fqualls and rain, and fo dark a fky, that we could not fee the length of the fhip. Being apprehenfive, from the experience I had fince our arrival on this coafl, of the wind veering more to the South, which would put us in danger of a lee-fhore, we got the tacks on board, and flretched off to the South Wefl, under all the fail the fliips could bear. Fortunately, the wind veered no farther Southerly, than South Eafl j fo that at day-light the next morning, Monday we were quite clear of the coafl. The 342 A V O Y A G E T O ^778 The Difcovery being at fome diflance aflcrn, I brought v.—v~> to, till flic came up, and then bore away, fleering North Well; in which.direction I fuppofed the coafl to lie. The wind was at South Eall, blew very hard, and in fqualls, with thick hazy weather. At half pad one in the afternoon, it blew a perfect hurricane; fo that I judged it highly dangerous to run any longer before it, and, therefore, brought the fliips to, with their heads to the Southward, under the forefails and mizen-flayfails. At this time, the Kefolution fprung a leak, which, at firfl, alarmed us not a little. It was found to be under the {larboard buttock; where, from the bread-room, we could both hear and fee the water rufli in ; and, as we then thought, two feet under water. But in this we were happily miflakcn ; for it was afterward found to be even with the water-line, if not above it, when the lhip was upright. It was no fooncr difcovered, than the fifh-room was found to be full of water, and the cafks in it afloat; but this was, in a great meafure, owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals that lay in the bottom of the room. Tor after the water was baled out, which employed us till midnight, and had found its way directly from the leak to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, which gave us no fmall fatisfaction, In the evening, the wind veered to the South, and its fury, in fome degree, ccafed. On this, wc fet the main-fail, and two topfails clofc-reefed, and flretched to the Weftward. But at eleven o'clock, the gale again in-creafed, and obliged us to take in the topfails, till five Tueflay 28. o'clock the next morning, when the florin began to abate; fo that we could bear to fet them again. The weather now began to clear up ; and, being able to fee feveral leagues round us, I fleered more to the Northward. At At noon, the latitude, by obfervation, was $om i7; Ion- ^77.8-gitude 2290 a6'*. I now fleered North Wefl by North, with V *.* a frefli gale at South South Eafl, and fair weather. But at nine in the evening, it began again to blow hard, and in fqualls with rain. With fuch weather, and the wind between South South Eaft and South Welt, I continued the fame courfe till the 30th, at four in the morning, when I Thurfday3o» fleered North by Weft, in order to make the land. I regretted very much indeed that I-could not do it fooner, for this obvious reafon, that we were now palling the place where geographers f have placed the pretended flrait of Admiral de Fonte. For my own part, I give no credit to fuch vague and improbable ftories, that carry their own confutation along with them.. Neverthelefs, I was very defirous of keeping the American coaft aboard, in order to clear up this point beyond difpute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me, to have engaged with the land in weather fo exceedingly tcmpeftuous, or to have loft the advantage of a fair wind, by waiting for better weather. This fame day at noon we were in the latitude of 530 23', and in the longitude of 2250 14'. The next morning, being the ift of May, feeing nothing of M;vv. the land, I fleered North Eaftcrly, with a frefli breeze at South Fnday South Eaft and South, with fqualls and fhowcrs of rain and hail. Our latitude at noon was 540 43', and our longitude 2240 44'. At feven in the evening, being in the latitude of 550 20', we got Cight of the land, extending from f A6 in the remaining part of this Volume, the Latitude and Longitude are very frequently fet down j the former being invariably North, and the latter Eaft, the con-ftant repetition of the two words, North and Eajl, has been omitted, to avoid unne-ceilhry precifion. t See De Lille's Carte Generate des DecmverUs de ?Amlrd de Fonte, &c. Paris, 1752 i and many other Maps. . North 1778' North North Eafl to Eafl, or Eafl by South, about twelve or May. ' / —u—-> fourteen leagues diflant. An hour after, I fleered North by Saturday 2. Weft; and at four the next morning, the coafl was feen from North by Wefl to South Eaft, the neareft part about fix leagues diflant *. At this time the Northern point of an inlet, or what appeared to be one, bore Eafl by South. It lies in the latitude of 560; and from it to the Northward, the coaft feemed to be much broken, forming bays and harbours every two or three leagues ; or elfe appearances much deceived us. At fix o'clock, drawing nearer the land, I fleered North Wefl by North, this being the direction of the coafl; having a frefh gale at South Eaft, with fome fhowers of hail, fnow and fleet. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, we paffed a group of fmall iflands lying under the main land, in the latitude of 5 6° 48'; and off, or rather to the Northward of, the South point of a large bay. An arm of this bay, in the Northern part of it, feemed to extend in toward the North, behind a round elevated mountain that lies between it and the fea. This mountain 1 called Mount Edgecumbe; and the point of land that moots out from it, Cape Edgecumbe. The latter lies in the latitude of 570 3', and in the longitude of 2240 7'; and, at noon, it bore North 200 Wefl, fix leagues diflant. * This muft be very near that part of the American coafl, where Tfcherikow anchored in 1741. For Midler places its latitude in 56°. Mad this Ruffian navigator been fo fortunate as to proceed a little farther Northward along the coaft,' he would have found, as we now learn from Captain Cook, bays, and harbours, and iflands, where his fhip might have been fheltered, and his people protected in landing. For the particulars of the misfortunes he met with here, two boats crews, which he fent afhore, having never returned, probably cut off by the natives, fee Mutter's Decouveries de Ruffes, p. 2.; 8. 254. The Spaniards, in 1775, found two good harbours on this part of the coaft; that called Gualoupe, in latitude 570 11', and the other, De las Rcjnedics, in latitude 570 18'. 1 The . The land, except in fome places clofe to the fea, is all of '778. a confiderable height, and hilly; but Mount Edgcumbe far lJ^IL. out-tops all the other hills. It was wholly covered with fnow; as were alfo all the other elevated hills; but the lower ones, and the flatter fpots, bordering upon the fea, were free from it, and covered with wood. As we advanced to the North, we found the coafl from Cape Edgcumbe to trend to North and North Eaflerly for fix or feven leagues, and there form a large bay. In the entrance of that bay are fome iflands; for which reafon I named it the Bay of Iflands. It lies in the latitude of 570 20'*; and feemed to branch into fevcral arms, one of which turned to the South, and may probably communicate with the bay on the Eafl fide of Cape Edgcumbe, and make the land of that Cape an ifland. At eight o'clock in the evening, the Cape bore South Eafl half South; *the Bay of Iflands North ^3° Eafl; and another inlet, before which are alfo fome iflands, bore North 520 Eafl, five leagues diflant. I continued to fleer North North Wefl, half Wefl, and North Wefl by Weft, as the coafl trended, with a fine gale at North Eafl, and clear weather. At half an hour paft four in the morning, on the 3d, Sunday ^ Mount Edgcumbe bore South 540 Eafl; a large inlet, North 50* Eafl, diflant fix leagues ; and the mofl advanced point of the land, to the North Wefl, lying under a very high peaked mountain, which obtained the name of Mount Fair Weather, bore North 320 Wefl. The inlet was named Crofs Sound, as being firfl feen on that day, fo marked in our calendar. It * It fhould feem, that in this very bay, the Spaniards, in 1775, found their port which they call De los Remedies. The latitude is exactly the fame; and their Journal mentions its being protected by a hng ridge of high ifands. See Mlfcellames by the Honourable Daines Harrington, p. 503, 504. Vol. II. Y y appeared appeared to branch in fevcral arms, the largcft of which turned to the Northward. The South Eaft point of this Sound is a high promontory, which obtained the name of Crofs Cape. It lies in the latitude of s7° 57'> and its longitude is 2230 21'. At noon it bore South Eaft; and the point, under the peaked mountain, which was called Cape Fair Weather, North by Weft a quarter Weft, diftant thirteen leagues. Our latitude at this time, was 580 17', and our longitude 2220 14'; and wc were diftant from the fhore three or four leagues. In this fituation we found the variation of the compafs to be from 24* 11' to 26° 11' Eaft. Here the North Eaft wind left us, and was fuccceded by light breezes from the North Weft, which Lifted for feveral days. I ftood to the South Weft, and Weft South Weft, till eight o'clock the next morning, when we tacked, and ftood toward the fhore. At noon, the latitude was 580 22', and the longitude 2200 45'. Mount Fair Weather, the peaked mountain over the cape of the fame name, bore North, 630 Eaft; the fhore under it twelve leagues diftant. This mountain, which lies in the latitude of 58* 52', and in the longitude of 22a0, and five leagues inland, is the higheft of a chain, or rather a ridge, of mountains, that rife at the North Wefl entrance of Crofs Sound, and extend to the North Well, in a parallel direction with the coaft. Thefe mountains were wholly covered with fnow, from the higheft fummit down to the fea-coaft; fome few places excepted, where we could perceive trees riling, as it were, out of the fea; and which, therefore, we fuppofed, grew on low land, or £n iflands bordering upon the fhore of the continent *. At * According to Mullcr, Bcering fell in with the coaft of North America, in latitude 580 28'j and he defcribes its afbccl thus: " L\ifpetl du pays etoit affrayant par " fes At five in the afternoon, our latitude being; then c8° c*', ,7?s. ° JJ May. and our longitude 2200 52'; the fummit of an elevated v-—* mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing North, 260 Well; and, as was afterward found, forty leagues diftant. We fuppofed it to be Bcering's Mount St. Elias ; and it (lands by that name in our chart. This day we faw feveral whales, feals, and porpoifes; many gulls, and fevcral flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head; the tip of the tail, and upper part of the wings with a black band ; and the reft blueifh above, and white below. We alfo faw a brownifh duck, with a black or deep blue head and neck, fitting upon the water. Having but light winds, with fome calms, we advanced Wednef, 6. (lowly; fo that, on the 6th at noon, we were only in the latitude of 590 8', and in the longitude of 2200 19'. Mount Fair Weather bore South, 630 Eaft, and Mount Elias North, 300 Weft ; the neareft land about eight leagues diflanr. In the direction of North, 470 Eafl from this ftation, there was the appearance of a bay, and an ifland off the South point of it, that was covered with wood. It is here where I fuppofe Commodore Becring to have anchored. The latitude, which is 590 18', correfponds pretty well with the map of his voyage*, and the longitude is 221° Eaft. Behind the bay (which I fhall diftinguifh by the name of Beerings Bay, in honour of its difcovcrer), or rather to the South of it, the chain of mountains before mentioned, is interrupted by a plain of a few leagues extent; beyond which the fight was unlimit- 44 fes hautcs montagnes couvcrtes de /u'ege." The chain, or ridge of mountains, covered with fnow, mentioned here by Captain Cook, in the fame latitude, exiclly agrees with what Beering met with. See Mullcr's Voyages et Decmvertes des Ruffes* p. 248 — 254. * Probably, Captain Cook means Mullcr's map, prefixed to his Iliftory of the Ruflian Difcoveries. Y y 2 ed ; 1778. ed : fo that there is either a level country or water behind May. ' J s^^^^j jt# in £he afternoon, having a few hours calm, I took this opportunity to found, and found feventy fathoms water over a muddy bottom. The calm was fucceeded by a light breeze from the North, with which we flood to the Weft- Thurfchy7. ward } and at noon the next day, we were in the latitude of §f 27', and the longitude of 2190 7'. In this fituation, Mount 1 air Weather bore South, 700 Eail; Mount St. Elias, North, hall Well-, the Weflernmofl land in fight, North, 52* Weil; and cur diflance from the fhore four or five leagues ; the depih of water being eighty-two fathoms over a muddy bottom. From this flation we could fee a bay (circular to appearance) under the high land, with low wood-land on each fide of it. We now found the coafl to trend very much to the Weft, inclining hardly any thing to the North; and as we had the wind moftly from the Weil ward, and but little of it, our Saturday 9. progrefs was flow. On the 9th at noon, the latitude was 590 30', and the longitude 2170. In this fituation the neareft land was nine leagues diflant; and Mount St. Elias bore North, 30° Eaft, nineteen leagues diflant. This mountain lies twelve leagues inland, in the latitude of 6o° 27', and in the longitude of 2190. It belongs to a ridge of exceedingly high mountains, that may be reckoned a continuation of the former; as they are only divided from them by the plain above mentioned. They extend as far to the Wefl as the longitude of 2170 *, where, although they do not end, they lofe much of their height, and become more broken and divided. Sunday io. At noon on the 10th, our latitude was 59*51' and our longitude 2150 56', being no more than three leagues from the 2 coaft THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 34? coaft of the continent, which extended from Eaft half North, lJ7%* May. to North Weft half Weft, as far as the eye could reach. To v.—«— the Weftward of this laft direction was an ifland that extended from North, 52° Weft, to South, 85* Weft, diftant fix leagues. A point fhoots out from the main toward the North Eafl end of the ifland, bearing, at this time, North, 30* Weft, five or fix leagues diftant. This point I named Cape Suckling. The point of the Cape is low ; but within it, is a tolerably high hill, which is disjoined from the mountains by low land ; fo that, at a diflance, the Cape looks like an ifland. On the North fide of Cape Suckling is a bay that appeared to be of fome extent, and to be covered from moft winds. To this bay I had fome thoughts of going to flop our leak, as all our endeavours to do it at fea had proved ineffectual. With this view, I fleered for the Cape j but as we had only variable light breezes, we approached it flowly. However, before night, we were near enough to fee fome low land fpitting out from the Cape to the North Wefl, fo as to cover the Eaft part of the bay from the South wind. We alfo faw fome fmall iflands in the bay, and elevated rocks between the Cape and the North Eaft end of the ifland. But flill there appeared to be a paffage on both fides of thefe rocks ; and I continued fleering for them all night, having from forty-three to twenty-feven fathoms water over a muddy bottom. At four o'clock next morning, the wind, which had been Monday ir* moftly at North Eaft, fhifted to North. This being againft us, I gave up the defign of going within the ifland, or into the bay, as neither could be done without lofs of time. I therefore bore up for the Wefl end of the ifland. The wind blew faint; and at ten o'clock it fell calm. Being not far from the ifland, I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a view a view of feeing what lay on the other fide ; but {mding it farther to the hills than I expected, and the way being flcep and woody, I was obliged to drop the defign. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the fhore, I left a bottle, with a paper in it, on which were inferibed the names of the fliips, and the date of our difcovery. And along with it, I inclofed two filver twopenny pieces of his Majefty's coin, of the date 1772. Thefe, with many others, were furnifhed me by the Reverend Dr.Kaye* j and, as a mark of my eftceni and regard for that gentleman, I named the iiland, after him, Kayes JJlancL It is eleven or twelve leagues in length, in the direction of North Eafl and South Wefl; but its breadth is not above a league, or a league and a half, in any part of it. The South Wefl point, which lies in the latitude of 590 4c/, and the longitude of 216° 58', is very remarkable, being a naked rock, elevated confiderably above the land within it. There is alfo an elevated rock lying off it, which, from fome points of view, appears like a ruined cafllc. Toward the fea, the ifland terminates in a kind of bare Hoping cliffs, with a beach, only a few paces acrofs to their foot, of large pebble ftones, intermixed in fome places with a brownifh clayey' fand, which the fea feems to dc-pofit after rolling in, having been wafhed down from the higher parts, by the rivulets or torrents. The cliffs are compofed of a blueith flone or rock, in a foft or mouldering ftate, except in a few places. There are parts of the fhore interrupted by fmall vallies and gullies. In each of thefe, a rivulet or torrent rufhes down with confiderable impetu-ofity ; though it may be fuppofed that they are only furnifhed from the fnow, and laft no longer than till it is all * Then Sul-ahnoner, and Chaplain to his Majefty, now Dean of Lincoln. melted. melted. Thefe vallics are filled with pine-trees, which grow down clofe to the entrance, but only to about half way up the higher or middle part of the ifland.. The woody part alfo begins, every where, immediately above the cliffs, and is continued to the fame height with the former; fo that the ifland is covered, as it were, with a broad girdle of wood, fpread upon its fide, included between the top of the cliffy fhore, and the higher parts in the centre. The trees, however, are far from being of an uncommon growth ;, few appearing to be larger than one might grafp round with his arms, and about forty or fifty feet high ; fo that the only purpofe they could anfwer for fhipping, would be to make top-gallant-mafls, and other fmall things, flow far we may judge of the fize of the trees which grow on the neighbouring continent, it may be difficult to deter* mine. But it was obferved, that none larger than thofe we faw growing, lay upon the beach amongfl the drift wood. The pine-trees feemed all of one fort j and there was neither the Canadian pine, nor cyprefs to be feen. But there were a few which appeared to be the alder, that were but fmall, and had not yet fhot forth their leaves. Upon the edges of the cliffs, and on fome floping ground, the furface was covered with a kind of turf, about half a foot thick; which feemed compofed of the common mofs; and the top, or upper part of the ifland had almofl the fame appearance as to colour; but whatever covered it feemed to be thicker. I found amongfl the trees fome currain and hawberry bullies ;• a fmall yellow-flowered violet; and the leaves of fome other plants not yet in flower, particularly one which Mr. Anderfon fuppofed to be the hc^achum of Linna:us, the fweet herb, which Steller, who attended licering, imagined the the Americans here drefs for food, in the fame manner as the natives of Kamtfchatka*. We faw, flying about the wood, a crow; two or three of the white-headed eagles mentioned at Nootka; and another fort full as large, which appeared alfo of the fame colour, or blacker, and had only a white breaft. In the paffage from the fhip to the fhore, we faw a great many fowls fitting upon the water, or flying about in flocks or pairs; the chief of which were a few quebrantahueffes ; divers; ducks, or large peterels ; gulls ; fhags; and burres. The divers were of two forts; one very large, of a black colour, with a white breaft and belly; the other fmaller, and with a longer and more pointed bill, which feemed to be the common guillemot. The ducks were alfo of two forts ; one brownifh, with a black or deep blue head and neck, and is perhaps the flone duck defcribed by Steller. The others fly in larger flocks, but are fmaller than thefe, and are of a dirty black colour. The gulls wTere of the common fort, and thofe which fly in flocks. The fhags were large and black, with a white fpot behind the wings as they flew; but probably only the larger water cormorant. There was alfo a fingle bird fecn flying about, to appearance of the gull kind, of a fnowy white colour, with black along part of the upper fide of its wings. I owe all thefe remarks to Mr. Anderfon. At the place where we landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyed us with very little emotion, walking Icifurcly without any figns of fear. He was of a reddilh-yellow colour, like fome of the fkins we bought at Nootka, but not of a large fize. We alfo faw two or three little ieals off fhore ; but no other animals or * Sec Muller, p. 256. bhxls ; birds; nor the kail liens of inhabitants having ever been 'J/*- % ° • May upon the ifland. <- I returned on board at half pafl two in the afternoon; and, with a light breeze Eafterly, fleered for the South Wefl of the ifland, which we got round by eight o'clock, and then flood for the Weflernmofl land now in fight, which, at this time, bore North Wefl half North. On the North Well fide of the North Eafl end of Kaye's Ifland, lies another ifland, flretching South Eafl and North Weft about three leagues, to within the fame diflance of the North Wefl boundary of the bay above mentioned, which is diftin-guifhed by the name of Comptroller's Bay. Next morning, at four o'clock, Kaye's Ifland was flill in Tucfday fight, bearing Eafl a quarter South. At this time, we were about four or live leagues from the main ; and the mofl Wellern part in fight bore North Wefl half North We had now a frefli gale at Eafl South Eafl; and as we advanced to the North Wefl, we raifed land more and more Weilerly; and, at laft, to the Southward of Weft; fo that, at noon, when the latitude was 61* 11', and the longitude 2130 28', the mofl advanced land bore from us South Weft by Weft half Weft. At the fame time, the Eafl point of a large inlet bore Weft North Weft, three leagues diftant. From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which I name Cape Hinchingbroke> the direction of the coafl is nearly Eaft and Weft. Beyond this, it feemed to incline to the Southward ; a direction fo contrary to the modern charts founded upon the late Ruffian difcoveries, that we had reafon to expect-that, by the inlet before us, we fhould find a paffage to the North ; and that the land to the Weft and South Weft was nothing but a group of iflands. Add to this, that the wind Vol. II. Z z was 177s. was now at South Eafl, and we were threatened with a fog May. [%m —w mj and a ftorm j and I wanted to get into fome place to flop the leak, before we encountered another gale. Thefe reafbns induced me to fleer for the inlet, which we had no fooner reached, than the weather became fo foggy, that we could not fee a mile before us, and it became neceffary to fecure the fliips in fome place, to wait for a clearer fky. With this view, I hauled clofe under Cape Hinchingbrokc, and anchored before a fmall cove, a little within the Cape, in eight fathoms water, a clayey bottom, and about a quarter of a mile from the fhore. The boats were then hoifled out, fome to found, and others to fifh. The feine was drawn in the cove ; but without fuc-cefs, for it was torn. At fome fhort intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave us a fight of the lands around us. The Cape bore South by Wefl half Wefl, one league diflant; the Well point of the inlet South Wefl by Wefl, diflant five leagues ; and the land on that fide extended as far as Wefl by North. Between this point and North Wefl by Wefl, wc could fee no land ; and what was in the lall direction feemed to be at a great diflance. The Weflernmofl point we had in fight on the North fhore, bore. North North Wefl half Wefl, two leagues diflant. Between this point, and the fhore under which we were at anchor, is a bay about three leagues deep ; on the South Eafl fide of which there are two or three coves, fuch as that before which wc had anchored; and in the middle fome rocky iflands. To thefe iflands Mr. Gore was fent in a boat, in hopes of mooting fome eatable birds. But he had hardly got io them, before about twenty natives made their appearance in two large canoes; on which he thought proper to to return to the fliips, and they followed him. They would 1778. not venture along-fide, but kept at fome diflance, hollowing i_____-j aloud, and alternately clafping and extending their arms ; and, in a fhort time, began a kind of fong exactly after the manner of thofe at Nootka. Their heads were alfo powdered with feathers. One man held out a white garment, which we interpreted as a fign of friendfhip; and another flood up in the canoe, quite naked, for almofl a quarter of an hour, with his arms flrctchcd out like a crofs, and motionlefs. The canoes were not conflructcd of wood, as at King George's or Nootka Sound. The frame only, being flender laths, was of that fubflance; the outfide confifling of the fkins of feals, or of fuch like animals. Though we returned all their figns of friendfhip, and, by every cxprcflive gcflure, tried to encourage them to come along-fide, we could not prevail. Some of our people repeated feveral of the common words of the Nootka language, fuch as fceketnaUc, and mahook\ but they did not feem to underfland them. After receiving fome prefents, which were thrown to them, they retired toward that part of the fhore from whence they came ; giving us to underfland by figns, that they would vifit us again the next morning. Two of them, however, each in a fmall canoe, waited upon us in the night; probably with a defign to pilfer fomething, thinking we fhould be all aflecp; for they retired as foon as they found themfelvcs difcovered. During the night, the wind was at South South Eafl, blowing hard and in fqualls, with rain, and very thick weather. At ten o'clock next morning, the wind became more wedncf, 13. moderate, and the weather being fomcwhat clearer, we got under fail, in order to look out for fome mug place, where Z z 2 we wc might fearch for, and flop the leak ; our prefent flation being too much expofed for this purpofe. At firfl, I propofed to have gone up the bay, before which we had anchored; but the clearnefs of the weather tempted me to fleer to the Northward, farther up the great inlet, as being all in our way. As foon as we had paffed the North Wefl point of the bay above mentioned, we found the coafl on that fide to turn fhort to the Eaflward. I did not follow it, but continued our courfe to the North, for a point of land which we faw in that direction. The natives who vifited us the preceding evening, came off again in the morning, in five or fix canoes j but not till we were under fail; and although they followed us for fome time, they could not get up with us. Before two in the afternoon, the bad weather returned again, with fo thick a haze, that wc could fee no other land befides the point jufl mentioned, which we reached at half pafl four, and found it to be a fmall ifland, lying about two miles from the adjacent coafl, being a point of land, on the Eafl fide of which we difcovered a fine bay, or rather harbour. To this we plied up, under reefed topfails and courfes. The wind blew flrong at South Eafl, and in cxccfllvcly hard fqualls, with rain. At intervals, we could fee land in every direction ; but in general the weather was fo foggy, that we could fee none but the fhores of the bay into which we were plying. In pailing the ifland, the depth of water was twenty-fix fathoms, with a muddy bottom. Soon after, the depth incrcafed to fixty and feventy fathoms, a rocky bottom ; but in the entrance of the bay, the depth was from thirty to fix fathoms ; the laft very near the more. At length, at eight o'clock, the violence of the fqualls obliged us lis to anchor in thirteen fathoms, before we had got fo far into the bay as I intended} but we thought ourlclvcs fortunate \_—»—~j that we had already fufficienrly fecured ourfelves at this hour; for the night was exceedingly flormy. The weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the natives from paying us a vifit. They came ofF in two canoes; two men in one, and one in the other; being the number each could carry. For they were built and con-flrucTed in the fame manner with thofe of the Efquimaux; only, in the one were two holes for two men to fit in; and in the other but one. Each of thefe men had a flick, about three feet long, with the large feathers or wing of birds tied to it. Thefe they frequently held up to us; with a view, as we guefTed, to exprefs their pacific difpofition*. The treatment thefe men met with, induced many more TWd to vifit us, between one and two the next morning, in both great and fmall canoes. Some ventured on board the fhip; but not till fome of our people had fleppcd into their boats. Amongfl' thofe who came on board, was a good-looking middle-aged man, whom we afterward found to be the ' Chief. He was clothed in a drefs made of the fea-otter's fkin; and had on his head fuch a cap as is worn by the people of King George's Sound, ornamented with fky-blue glafs beads, about the fize of a large pea. He feemed to fet a much higher value upon thefe, than upon our white glafs beads. Any fort of beads, however, appeared to be in high ellimation with- thefe people ; and they readily gave whatever they had in exchange for them; even their fine fea- * Exactly correfponding to this, was the manner of receiving Becring's people, at the Schumagin Iflands, on this coaft, in 1741. Muller's words are—" On fait ce «.< que e'eft que le Calumet > que les Americains feptcntrionaux prefentent en figne de ** paix, Ceux-ci en tcnoient de parcils en main. C'etoint des batons avec aites de *• faucon attachecs au boul." Decouvertes1 p. 268. i otter otter fkins. But here I mufl obferve, that they fet no more value upon thefe than upon other fkins, which was alfo the cafe at King George's Sound, till our people fet a higher price upon them ; and even after that, the natives of both places would fooner part with a drefs made of thefe, than with One made of the fkins of wild-cats or of martins. Thefe people were alfo defirous of iron; but they wanted pieces eight or ten inches long at leafl, and of the breadth of three or four fingers. For they abfolutely rejected fmall pieces. Confequently, they got but little from us; iron having, by this time, become rather a fcarce article. The points of fome of their fpears or lances were of that metal; others were of copper; and a few of bone ; of which the points of their darts, arrows, &c. were compofed. I could not prevail upon the Chief to trull himfelf below the upper deck; nor did he and his companions remain long on board. But while we had their company, it was neceffary to watch them narrowly, as they foon betrayed a thievifh difpofition. At length, after being about three or four hours along-fide the Refolution, they all left her, and went to the Difcovery; none having been there before, except one man, who, at this time, came from her, and immediately returned thither in company with the refl. When I obferved this, I thought this man had met with fomething there, which he knew would pleafe his countrymen better than what they met with at our fhip. But in this I was miflaken, as will foon appear. As foon as they were gone, I fent a boat to found the head of the bay. For, as the wind was moderate, I had thoughts of laying the fhip afhore, if a convenient place could be found jwhere I might begin our operations to flop the leak. It It was not long before all the Americans left the Difcovery, and inflead of returning to us, made their way toward our boat employed as above. The officer in her feeing this, returned to the fhip, and was followed by all the canoes. The boat's crew.had no fooner come on board, leaving in her two of their number by way of a guard, than fome of the Americans flcpped into her. Some prefented their fpears before the two men ; others caff loofe the rope which faflened her to the fhip ; and the refl attempted to tow her away. But the inflant they faw us preparing to oppofe them, they let her go, flcpped out of her into their canoes, and made iigns to us to lay down our arms, having the appearance of being as perfectly unconcerned as if they had done nothing amifs. This, though rather a more daring attempt, was hardly equal to what they had meditated on board the Difcovery. The man who came and carried all his countrymen from the Rcfoludon to the other fhip, had firfl been on board of her; where, after looking down all the hatchways, and feeing nohody but the officer of the watch, and one or two more, he no doubt thought they might plunder her with eafe; efpecialiy as fhe lay at fome diflance from us. It was unqueflionably with this view, that they all repaired to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board; drew their knives; made figns to the officer and people on deck to keep off; and began to look about them for plunder. The firfl thing they met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they threw over-board to thofe of their party who had remained in the canoes. Before they had time to find another object: that pleafed their fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began to come upon deck armed with cutlaffes. On feeing this, the whole company of plunderers fneaked off into their canoes, with as much clcli-6 beration i Deration and indifference as they had given up the boat; and they were obferved defcribing to thofe who had not been on board, how much longer the knives of the fhip's crew were than their own. It was at this time, that my boat was on the founding duty ; which they mufl have feen ; for they proceeded directly for her, after their difappointment at the Difcovery. I have not the lead doubt, that their vifiting us fo very early in the morning was with a view to plunder; on a fuppofition, that they mould find every body afleep. May we not, from thefe circumflances, reafonably infer, that thefe people are unacquainted with fire-arms. For certainly, if they had known any thing of their effect, they never would have dared to attempt taking a boat from tinder a fhip's guns, in the face of above a hundred men j for mofl of my people were looking at them, at the very in-flant they made the attempt. However, after all thefe tricks, we had the good fortune to leave them as ignorant, in this ■refpect, as we found them For they neither heard nor faw a mufquet fired, unlefs at birds. Juil as we were going to weigh the anchor, to proceed farther up the hay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as before; fo that we were obliged to bear away the cable again, and lay fafl. Toward the evening, finding that the gale did not moderate, and that it might be fome time before an opportunity offered to get higher up, I came to a re-folution to heel the fhip where we were and, with this view, moored her with a kedge-anchor and hawfer. In heaving the anchor out of the boat, one of the feamen, cither through ignorance or carcleffncfs, or both, was carried over board by the buoy-rope, and followed the anchor to to the bottom. It is remarkable, that, in this very critical '778- fituation, he had prefence of mind to difengage himfelf, and 1_1 come up to the furface of the water, where he was taken up, with one of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner. Early the next morning, we gave the fhip a good heel to Friday 15, port, in order to come at, and flop the leak. On ripping off the fheathing, it was found to be in the feams, which were very open, both in and under the wale; and, in feveral places, not a bit of oakum in them. While the carpenters were making good thefe defects, we filled all our empty water-cafks, at a flream hard by the fhip. The wind was now moderate, but the weather was thick and hazy, with rain. The natives, who left us the preceding day, when the bad weather came on, paid us another vifit this morning, Thofe who came firfl, were in fmali canoes ; others, afterward, arrived in large boats; in one of which were twenty women, and one man, befides children. In the evening of the 16th, the weather cleared up ; and Saturday 16, we then found ourfelves furrounded on every fide by land. Our flation was on the Eafl fide of the Sound, in a place, which in the chart is diflinguifhcd by the name of Smig Comer Bay. And a very fnug place it is. I. went, accompanied by fome of the officers, to view the head of it; and we found that it was fheltered from all winds; with a depth of water from feven to three fathoms over a muddy bottom. The land, near the fhore, is low ; part clear, and part wooded. The clear ground was covered, two or three feet thick, with fnow; but very little lay in the woods. The very fummits of the neighbouring hills were covered with Vol. II. 3 A wood; wood j but thofe farther inland feemed to be naked rocks, buried in fnow. The leak being flopped, and the flieatbing made good over it, at four o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we weighed, and fleered to the North-weftward, with a light breeze at Eafl North Eafl; thinking, if there fhould be any paffage to the North through this inlet, that it mufl be in that direction. Soon after we were under fail, the natives, in both great and fmall canoes, paid us another vifit, which gave us an additional opportunity of forming a more perfect idea of their perfons, drefs, and other particulars, which fhall be afterward defcribed. Our vifiters feemed to have no other bufinefs, but to gratify their curiofity; for they entered into no fort of traffic with us. After we had got over to the North Wefl point of the arm in which we had anchored, we found that the flood-tide came into the inlet, through the fame channel by which we had entered. Although this circumflance did not make wholly againft a paffage, it was, however, nothing in its favour. After pairing the point above mentioned, we met with a good deal of foul ground, and many funken rocks, even out in the middle of the channel, which is here five or fix leagues wide. At this time the wind failed us, and was fucceeded by calms and light airs from every direction ; fo that we had fome trouble to extricate ourfelves from the threatening danger. At length, about one o'clock, with the aflift-ance of our boats, we got to an anchor, under the Eaftern fhore, in thirteen fathoms water, and about four leagues to the North of our laft flation. In the morning, the weather had been very hazy ; but it afterward cleared up, fo as to give us a diftinct view of all the land round us, particu- 7 larly larly to the Northward, where it feemed to clofe. This left us but little hopes of finding a paffage that way ; or, indeed, in any other direction, without putting out again to fea. To enable me to form a better judgment, I difpatched Mr. Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the Northern arm; and the mailer, with two other boats, to examine another arm that feemed to take an Eaflerly direction. Late in the evening, they both returned. The Mailer reported, that the arm he had been fent to, communicated with that from which we had laft come; and that one fide of it was only formed by a group of iflands. Mr. Gore informed me, that he had feen the entrance of an arm, which, he was of opinion, extended a long way to the North Eafl; and that, probably by it, a paffage might be found. On the other hand, Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, whom I had fent with Mr. Gore to fketch out the parts they had examined, was of opinion, that they faw the head of this arm. The difagreemcnt of thefe two opinions, and the circumflance already mentioned of the flood-tide entering the Sound from the South, rendered the exiflencc of a paflage this way very doubtful. And, as the wind in the morning had become favourable for getting out to fea, I refolved to fpend no more time in fearching for a paffage in a place that pro-mifed fo little fuccefs. Befides this, I confidcrcd, that, if the land on the Wefl fhould prove to be iflands, agreeably to the late Ruffian Difcoveries *, we could not fail of getting far enough to the North, and that in good time ; provided we did not lofe the feafon in fearching places, where a paffage was not only doubtful, but improbable. We were now * Captain Cook feems to take his ideas of thefe from Mr. Strehlin's map, prefixed to the Account of the Northern Archipelago j published by Dr. Maty. London, 1774. 3 A 2 upward $64 AVOYAGETO May upward of five hundred and twenty leagues to the Weftward ^—*—* of any part of Baffin's, or of Hudfon's Bay. And whatever paffage there may be, it mufl be, or, at leafl, part of it, mufl lie to the North of latitude 720*. Who could expect to find a paffage or flrait of fuch extent ? Monday 18. Having thus taken my refolution, next morning at three o'clock, we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at North, proceeded to the Southward down the inlet j and met with the fame broken ground, as on the preceding day. However, we foon extricated ourfelvcs from it, and afterward never flruck ground with a line of forty fathoms. Another paffage into this inlet was now difcovered, to the South Wefl of that by which we came in, which enabled us to fhorten our way out to fea. It is feparated from the other by an ifland, extending eighteen leagues in the direction of North Eafl and South Wefl j to which I gave the name of Montagu IJland. In this South Wefl channel are feveral iflands. Thofe that lie in the entrance, next the open fea, are high and rocky. But thofe within are low ones; and being entirely free from fnow, and covered with wood and verdure, on this account they were called Green Iflands. At two in the afternoon, the wind veered to the South Weft, and South Wefl by South, which reduced us to the neceffity of plying. I firfl flretched over to within two miles of the Eaflern more, and tacked in fifty-three fathoms water. In Handing back to Montagu Ifland, we difcovered a ledge of rocks; fome above, and others under water, lying three miles within, or to the North of the Northern * On what evidence Captain Cook formed his judgment as to this, will he mentioned in the Introduction. point point of Green Iflands. Afterward, fome others were feen >77« . * May in the middle of the channel farther out than the iflands. i_ Thefe rocks made unfafe plying in the night (though not very dark); and, for that reafon, we fpent it ifanding 01T and on, under Montagu Ifland ; for the depth of water was too great to come to an anchor. At day break, the next morning, the wind came more fa- Tuefday vourable, and we fleered for the channel between Montagu Ifland and the Green Iflands, which is between two and three leagues broad, and from thirty-four to feventeen fathoms deep. We had but little wind all the day; and, at eight o'clock in the evening, it was a dead calm; when we anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, over a muddy bottom ; about two miles from the more of Montagu's Ifland. The calm continued till ten o'clock the next morning, when wednef, it was fucceeded by a fmall breeze from the North, with which we weighed; and, by fix o'clock in the evening, we were again in the open fea, and found the coafl trending Wefl by South, as far as the eye could reach, C II A P. CHAP. V. The Inlet called Prince Williams Sound.—Its Extent.— Perfons of the Inhabitants defcribed.—Their Drefs.— Inctfion of the Under-lip.—Various other Ornaments. —Their Boats.—Weapons, fifing, and hunting Inftruments.—Utenfils.—Tools.*—Ufes Iron is applied to.— Food.—Language, and a Specimen of it.— Animals.— Birds.—Fifh.*—Iron and Beads, whence received. rir^O the inlet, which we had now left, I gave the name J. of Prince William's Sound. To judge of this Sound from what we faw of it, it occupies, at leaft, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of longitude, exclufive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is not known. The direction which they feemed to take, as alfo the fituation and magnitude of the feveral iflands in and about it, will be beft feen in the /ketch, which is delineated with as much accuracy as the fhort time and other circumftances would allow. The natives, who came to make us feveral vifits while wc were in the Sound, were generally not above the common height ; though many of them were under it. They were fquare, or flrong chefted ; and the moft d if pro portioned part of their body feemed to be their heads, which were very large ; with^thick, fhort necks; and large, broad or fpreading faces ; which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though not fmall, fcarcely bore a proportion to the fize fize of their faces j and their nofes had full, round points, hooked, or turned up at the tip. Their teeth were broad, white, equal in fize, and evenly fet. Their hair was black, thick, flraight and flrong j and their beards, in general, thin, or wanting j but the hairs about the lips of thofe who have them, were fliff or briflly, and frequently of a brown colour. And feveral of the elderly men had even large and thick, but flraight beards. Though, in general, they agree in the make of their perfons, and largenefs of their heads, there is a confiderable variety in their features; but very few can be faid to be of the handfome fort, though their countenance commonly indicates a confiderable fliare of vivacity, good-nature, and franknefs. And yet fome of them had an air of fullennefs and referve. Some of the women have agreeable faces; and many are eafily diflingui(liable from the men by their features, which are more delicate; but this fhould be un-dcrflood chiefly of the youngefl fort, or middle-aged. The complexion of fome of the women, and of the children, is white ; but without any mixture of red. And fome of the men, who were feen naked, had rather a brownifh or fwarthy call, which could fcarcely be the effect, of any ftain; for they do not paint their bodies. Their common drefs (for men, women, and children are clothed alike), is a kind of clofe frock, or rather robe; reaching generally to the ankles, though fometimes only to the knees. At the upper part is a hole j lift fuflieient to admit the head, with fleeves that reach to the wrift. Thefe frocks are made of the fkins of different animals ; the moft common of which are thofe'of the fea-otter, grey fox, racoon, and pine martin; with many of feal fkins; and, in general, they are are worn with the hairy fide outward. Some alfo have thefe frocks made of the fkins of fowls, with only the down remaining on them, which they glue on other fubftances. And we faw one or two woollen garments like thofe of Nootka. At the feams, where the different fkins are fewed together, they are commonly ornamented with taflels or fringes of narrow thongs, cut out of the fame fkins. A few have a kind of cape, or collar; and fome a hood ; but the other is the moft common form, and feems to be their whole drefs in good weather. When it rains, they put over this another frock, ingenioufly made from the inteilines of whales, or fome other large animal, prepared fo fkilfully, as almofl to refemble our gold-beaters leaf. It is made to draw tight round the neck ; its fleeves reach as low as the wrifl, round which they are tied with a firing; and its fkirts, when they are in their canoes, are drawn over the rim of the hole in which they fit; fo that no water can enter. At the fame time, it keeps the men entirely dry upward. For no water can penetrate through it, any more than through a bladder. It mufl be kept continually moift or wet; other-wife it is apt to crack or break. This, as well as the common frock made of the fkins, bears a great refemblance to the drefs of the Grccnlanders, as defcribed by Crantz*. In general, they do not cover their legs, or feet; but a few have a kind of fkin flockings, which reach half-way • Crantz's Hiftory of Greenland, Vol. i, p. 136—138. The reader will find in Crantz many very ftriking inftances, in which the Greenlanders, and Americans of Prince William's Sound, refemble each other, befides thofe mentioned in this Chapter by Captain Cook. The drefs of the people of Prince William's Sound, as defcribed by Captain Cook, alfo agrees with that of the inhabitants of Schumann's Iflands, difcovered by Beering in, 1741. Mullcr's words are, " Leur rnibillement etoit de ■*« boyaux de baleines pour le haut du corps, et de peaux de chiens-marins pour lebas." Diccwvertes des Rujfis, p. 274. 6 up up the thigh; and fcarcely any of them are without mittens for the hands, made of the fkins of bears paws. Thole who wear any thing on their heads, refemblcd, in this refpect, our friends at Nootka; having high truncated conic caps, made of fLraw, and fometimes of wood, refembling a feaPs head well painted. The men commonly wear the hair cropt round the neck and forehead; but the women allow it to grow long; and mofl of them tie a fmall lock of it on the crown ; or a few club it behind, after our manner. Both fexes have the ears perforated with feveral holes, about the outer and lower part of the edge, in which they hang little bunches of beads, made of the fame tubulofe fhelly fubflance ufed for this purpofe by thofe of Nootka. The feptum of the nofe is alfo perforated ; through which they frequently thrufl the quill-fca-thers of fmall birds, or little bending ornaments, made of the above fhelly fubflance, fining on a fliff firing or cord, three or four inches long, which give them a truly gro-tefque appearance. But the mofl uncommon and unfightly ornamental fafhion, adopted by fome of both fexes, is their having the under-lip flit, or cut, quite through, in the direction of the mouth, a little below the fwelling part. This incifion, which is made even in the fucking children, is often above two inches long; and either by its natural retraction, when the wound is frefli, or by the repetition of fome artificial management, aflumes the true fhape of lips, and becomes fo large as to admit the tongue through. This happened to be the cafe, when the firfl perfon having this incifion was feen by one of the feamen, who called out, that the man had two mouths; and, indeed, it does not look unlike it. In this artificial mouth they flick a flat, narrow ornament, made chiefly out of a folic! fhell or bone, cut into Vol. II. 3 B little little narrow pieces, like fmall teeth, almofl down to the bafc or thickeft part, which has a fmall projecting bit at each end that fupports it when put into the divided lip; the cut part then appearing outward. Others have the lower lip only perforated into feparate holes; and then the ornament confifts of as many diflinct fhelly ftuds, whofe points are pufhed through thefe holes, and their heads appear within the lip, as another row of teeth immediately under their own. Thefe are their native ornaments. But we found many beads of European manufacture among them, chiefly of a pale blue colour, which they hang in their ears ; about their caps; or join to their lip-ornaments, which have a fmall hole drilled in each point to which they are faftened, and others to them, till they hang fometimes as low as the point of the chin. But, in this laft cafe, they cannot remove them fo eafdy; for, as to their own lip-ornaments, they can take them out with their tongue, or fuck within, at pleafure. They alfo wear bracelets of the flielly beads, or others of a cylindrical fhape, made of a fubflance like amber ; with fuch alfo as are ufed in their ears and nofes. And fo fond are they, in general, of ornament, that they Hick any thing in their perforated lip; one man appearing with two of our iron nails projecting from it like prongs; and another endeavouring to put a large brafs button into it. The men frequently paint their faces of a bright red, and of a black colour, and fometimes of a blue, or leaden colour ; but not in any regular figure; and the women, in fome meafure, endeavoured to imitate them, by puncturing or ilaining the chin with black, that comes to a point in each cheek; a practice very fimilar to which is in fafhion amongfl amongfl: the females of Greenland, as we learn from Crantz *. W*> Their bodies are not painted, which may be owing to the i M' * fcarcity of proper materials j for all the colours which they brought to fell in bladders, were in very fmall quantities. "Upon the whole, I have no where feen ravages who take more pains than thefe people do, to ornament, or rather to disfigure their perfons. Their boats or canoes are of two forts ; the one being large and open, and the other fmall and covered. I mentioned already, that in one of the large boats were twenty women, and one man, befides children. I attentively examined and compared the conftruction of this, with Crantz's defcription of what he calls the great, or women's boat in Greenland, and found that they were built in the fame manner, parts like parts, with no other difference than in the form of the head and flern; particularly of the firfl, which bears fome refemblance to the head of a whale. The framing is of (lender pieces of wood, over which the fkins of feals, or of other larger fea-animals, are flretched, to compofe the outfide. It appeared alfo, that the fmall canoes of thefe people are made nearly of the fame form, and of the fame materials with thofe ufed by the Grecnlanders f and Efquimaux; at leafl the difference is not material. Some of thefe, as I have before obferved, carry two men. They are broader in proportion to their length than thofe of the Efquimaux ; and the head or fore-part curves fomewhat like the head of a violin. The weapons, and inftruments for fifhing and hunting, are the very fame that are made ufe of by the Efquimaux and Grecnlanders; and it is unneceffary to be particular in my * Vol. i. p. 138. f See Crantz, Vol. i. p 150 3 B 2 account account of them, as they are all very accurately defcribed by Crantz*. I did not fee a fingle one with thefe people that he has not mentioned ; nor has he mentioned one that they have not. For dcfenfive armour they have a kind of jacket, or coat of mail, made of thin laths, bound together with finews, which makes it quite flexible, though fo clofe as not to admit an arrow or dart. It only covers the trunk of the body, and may not be improperly compared to a woman's flays. As none of thefe people lived in the bay where we anchored, or where any of us landed, we faw none of their habitations; and I had not time to look after them. Of their domeftic utenfils, they brought in their boats fome round and oval fhallow difhes of wood j and others of a cylindical fhape much deeper. The fides were made of one piece, bent round, like our chip-boxes, though thick, neatly fattened with thongs, and the bottoms fixed in with fmall wooden pegs. Others were fmaller, and of a more elegant fhape, fomcwhat refembling a large oval butter-boat, without a handle, but more fhallow, made from a piece of wood, or horny fubflance. Thefe laft were fometimes neatly carved. They had many little fquare bags, made of the fame gut with their outer frocks, neatly ornamented with very minute red feathers interwoven with it, in which were contained fome very fine finews, and bundles of fmall cord, made from them, moil ingenioufly plaited. They alfo brought many chequered bafkets, fo clofcly wrought as to hold water; fome wooden models of their canoes ; a good many little images, four 'or five, inches long, either of wood, or nulled ; which were covered with * Vol. i. p. 146. He has alfo given a reprefentation of them on a plate there infer ted, a bit a bit of fur, and ornamented with pieces of fmall quill fea- *77s- May. thers, in imitation of their fhelly beads, with hair fixed on v_. -y—j their heads. Whether thefe might be mere toys for children, or held in veneration, as reprefenting their deceafed friends, and applied to fome fuperftitious purpofe, wc could not determine. But they have many inftruments made of two or three hoops, or concentric pieces of wood, with a crofs-bar fixed in the middle, to hold them by. To thefe are fixed a great number of dried barnacle-fbells, with threads, which ferve as a rattle, and make a loud noife, when they make them. This contrivance feems to be a fubflitute for the rattling-bird at Nootka j and perhaps both of them are employed on the fame occafions*. With what tools they make their wooden utenfils, frames of boats, and other things, is uncertain ; as the only one feen amongfl them was a kind of flone adze, made almofl after the manner of thofe of Otaheite, and the other iflands of the South Sea. They have a great many iron knives j fome of which are flraight; others a little curved; and fome very fmall ones, fixed i» pretty long handles, with the blades bent upward, like fome of our fhoemakers inftruments. But they have flill knives of another fort, which are fometimes near two feet long, fhaped almofl like a dagger, with a ridge in the middle. Thefe they wear in fhcaths of fkins, hung by a thong round the neck, under their robe ; and they are, probably, only ufed as weapons; the other knives being apparently applied to other purpofes* Every thing they have, however, is as well and ingenioufly made, as if they were furnifhed with the moft complete tool-chcll; and their fewing, plaiting of finews, and fmall * The rattling-ball found by Stellcr, who attended Beering in 174I, at no great diftance from this Sound,, feems to be for a fimilar ufe. See Muller, p. 256- 7 work work on their little bags, may be put in competition with the mofl delicate manufactures found in any part of the known world. In Ihort, confidering the otherwife uncivilized or rude flate in which thefe people are, their Northern fituation, amidfl a country perpetually covered with fnow, and the wretched materials they have to work with, it appears, that their invention and dexterity, in all manual works, is at leafl equal to that of any other nation. The food which we faw them eat, was dried fifh, and the flefh of fome animal, either broiled or roafled. Some of the latter that was bought, feemed to be bear*s flefh, but with a fifhy tafle. They alfo eat the larger fort of fern-root, mentioned at Nootka, either baked, or drefled in fome other way; and fome of our people faw them eat freely of a fubflance which they fuppofed to be the inner part of the pine bark. Their drink is mofl probably water; for in their boats they brought fnow in the wooden veffels, which they fwallowed by mouthfuls. Perhaps it could be carried with lefs trouble, in thefe open veffels, than water itfelf. Their method of eating feems decent and cleanly; for they always took care to feparate any dirt that might adhere to their victuals. And though they fometimes did eat the raw fat of fome fea animal, they cut it carefully into mouthfuls, with their fmall knives. The fame might be faid of their perfons, which, to appearance, were always clean and decent, without greafe or dirt; and the wooden veffels, in which their victuals are probably put, were kept in excellent order; as well as their boats, which were neat, and free from lumber. Their language feems difficult to be underftood at firfl; not from any indiflinctnefs or confufion in their words and founds, but from the various fignifications they have. For they they appeared to ufe the very fame word, frequently, on very different occafions; though doubtlefs this might, if our intercourfe had been of longer duration, have been found to be a miflake on our fide. The only words I could obtain, and for them I am indebted to Mr, Anderfon*, were thofe that follow; the firfl of which was alfo ufed at Nootka, in the fame fenfe; though we could not trace an aflinity between the two dialects in any other inflance. What's the name of that ? An ornament for the ear. A brown ffjaggy fkin, perhaps a bears. Yes. The fkin of a fea-otter. Give me fomething. Give me fomething in exchange, or barter. Of, or belonging to me.—Will you barter for this that belongs to me ? Akafhou, Namuk, Lukluk, Aa, Natoonefhuk, Keeta, Naema, Ooonaka, i1 Manaka, Ahleu, Weena, or Vecna, Keelafhuk, Tawuk, Amilhtoo, Whaehai, Yaut, Chilke, Taiha, Tokke, A fpear. Stranger—calling to one. Guts of which they make jackets. Keep it. A piece of ivhite bears fkin, or perhaps the hair that covered it. Shall I keep it f do you give k me ? I'll go I or fhalllgo? One. Tvao. Three. * We are alfo indebted to him for many remarks in this chapter, interwoven with thofe of Captain Cook, as throwing confiderable light on many parts of his journal. 2 (Tinke) (Tinke) Chukelo* Kocheene, Takulai, Keichilho, Klu, or Kliew, Eight ? As to the animals of this part of the continent, the fame muft be underftood as of thofe at Nootka ; that is, that the knowledge we have of them is entirely taken from the fkins which the natives brought to fell. Thefe were chiefly of feals ; a few foxes; the whitifh cat, or lynx; common and pine martins; fmall ermines ; bears; racoons; and fea-otters. Of thefe, the mofl common were the martin, racoon, and fea-otter fkins, which compofed the ordinary drefs of the natives; but the fkins of the firfl, which in general were of a much lighter brown than thofe at Nootka, were far fuperior to them in finenefs; whereas the laft, which, as well as the martins, were far'more plentiful than at Nootka, feemed greatly inferior in the finenefs and thick-nefs of their fur, though they greatly exceeded them in fize ; and were almofl all of the gloffy black fort, which is doubtlefs the colour mofl elleemed in thofe fkins. Bear and feal fkins were alfo pretty common; and the laft were in general white, very beautifully fpotted with black; or fometimes fimply white; and many of the bears here were of a brown, or footy colour. Befides thefe animals, which were all feen at Nootka, there are fome others in this place which we did not find there j fuch as, the white bear; of whofe fkins the natives * With regard to thefe numerals, Mr. Anderfon obferves, that the words corre-fponding to ours, are not certain after palling three; and therefore he marks thofe, about whofe pofition he is doubtful, with a point of interrogation. brought brought feveral pieces, and fome entire fkins of cubs; from which their fize could not be determined. We alfo found the wolverene, or quickhatch, which had very bright colours; a larger fort of ermine than the common one, which is the fame as at Nootka, varied with a brown colour, and with fcarcely any black on its tail. The natives alfo brought the fkin of the head of fome very large animal; but it could not be pofitively determined what it was; though, from the colour and fhagginefs of the hair, and its unlikc-nefs to any land animal, we judged it might probably be that of the large male urfme feal, or fea-bear. But one of the mofl beautiful fkins, and which feems peculiar to this place, as we never faw it before, is that of a fmall animal about ten inches long, of a brown or rufly colour on the back, with a great number of obfeure whitifh fpecks ; and the fides of a blueifh afh colour, alfo with a few of thefe fpecks. The tail is not above a third of the length of its body, and is covered with hair of a whitifh colour at the edges. It is no doubt the fame with thofe called fpotted field mice, by Mr. Stadilin* in his fhort account of the New Northern Archipelago. But whether they be really of the moufe kind, or a fquirrel, we could not tell, for want of perfect fkins ; though Mr. Anderfon was inclined to think that it is the fame animal defcribed under the name of the Cafan marmot, by Mr. Pennant. The number of fkins we found here, points out the great plenty of thefe feveral animals jufl mentioned ; but it is remarkable, that we neither faw the fkins of the moofe nor of the common deer. Of the birds mentioned at Nootka, we found here only the white-headed eagle; the fhag ; the alcyon, or great king^ * In his Account of Kodjak, p. 32 and 34. Vol. II, 3 C fifher, fifher, which had very fine bright colours; and the hum-ming-bird, which came frequently and flew about the fhip* while at anchor; though it can fcarcely live here in the winter, which mufl be very fevere. The water fowl were geefe ; a fmall fort of duck, almofl like that mentioned at Kerguelen's Land ; another fort which none of us knew; and fome of the black feapyes, with red bills, which we found at Van Diemen's Land, and New Zealand. Some of the people who went on fhore, killed a groufe, a fnipe, and fome plover. But though, upon the whole, the water fowl were pretty numerous, efpecially the ducks and geefe, which frequent the fhores, they were fo fhy, that it was fcarcely poflible to get within fhot; fo that we obtained a very fmall fupply of them as refreshment. The duck mentioned above, is as large as the common wild-duck, of a deep black colour, with a fhort pointed tail, and red feet. The bill is white, tinged with red toward the point, and has a large black fpot, almofl fquare, near its bafe, on each fide, where it is alfo enlarged or diflended. And on the forehead is a large triangular white fpot; with one Hill larger on the back part of the neck. The female has much duller colours, and none of the ornaments of the bill, except the two black fpots, which arc obfeure. There is likewife a fpecies of diver here, which feems peculiar to the place. It is about the fize of a partridge; has a fhort, black, compreffed bill; with the head and upper part of the neck of a brown black; the refl of a deep brown, obfeurely waved with black, except the under-part,, which is entirely of a blackifh eafl, very minutely varied with white; the other (perhaps the female) is blacker above, and whiter below. A fmall land bird, of the finch kind, about the fize of a yellow-hammer, was alfo found ; hut but was fufpected to be one of thofe which change their colour, with the feafon, and with their migrations. At this time, it was of a dufky brown colour, with a reddifh tail; and 'he fuppofed male had a large yellow fpot on the crow;* of the head, with fome varied black on the upper part of the neck; but the laft was on the breaft of the female. The only fifh we got, were fome torfk and halibut, which were chiefly brought by the natives to fell; and we caught a few fculpins about the fhip; with fome purplifh ftar-fifh, that had feventeen or eighteen rays. The rocks were obferved to be almofl deflitute of fhell fifh; and the only other animal of this tribe feen, was a red crab, covered with fpines of a very large fize. The metals we faw were copper and iron ; both which, particularly the latter, were in fuch plenty, as to conftitute the points of mofl of the arrows and lances. The ores, with which they painted themfelvcs, were a red, brittle, unctuous ochre, or iron-ore, not much unlike cinnabar in colour; a bright blue pigment, which we did not procure ; and black lead. Each of thefe feems to be very fcarce, as they brought very fmall quantities of the firfl and lafl, and feemed to keep them with great care. Few vegetables of any kind were fecn ; and the trees which chiefly grew here, were the Canadian and fpruce pine, and fome of them tolerably large. The beads and iron found amongfl thefe people, left no room to doubt, that they mufl have received them from fome civilized nation. We were pretty certain, from cir-cumflances already mentioned, that we were the full Europeans with whom they had ever communicated directly ; 3 C 2 and and it remains only to be decided, from what quarter they had got our manufactures, by intermediate conveyance. And there cannot be the leaft doubt of their having received thefe articles, through the intervention of the more inland tribes, from Hudfon's Bay, or the fcttlc-ments on the Canadian lakes ; unlefs it can be fuppofed (which however is lefs likely) that the Pvuflian traders, from Kamtfchatka, have already extended their traffic thus far j or at leaft that the natives of their moft Eafterly Fox Iflands communicate along the coaft, with thofe of Prince William's Sound*. As to the copper, thefe people feem to procure it them-felves, or at moft it paffes through few hands to them j for they ufed to exprefs its being in a fufficient quantity amongft them, when they offered any to barter, by pointing to their weapons ; as if to fay, that having fo much of this metal of their own, they wanted no more. It is, however, remarkable, if the inhabitants of this Sound be fupplied with European articles, by way of the intermediate traffic to the Eaft coaft, that they fhould, in return, never have given to the more inland Indians any of * There is a circumftance mentioned by Muller, in his account of Becring's voyage to the coaft of America in 1741, which feems to decide this queftion. His people found iion at the Schumagin Iflands, as may be fairly prefumed from the following quotation. " Un feul hgmme avoit un couteau pendu a fa ceinture, qui parut " fort fmgulier a nos gens par fa figure. II etoit long dc hult pouces, et fort epais, &c M large a Pendroit ou devoit etre la pointe. On ne pcut favoir quel etoit Pufage de u cct outil." Decouvertes des Ruffes, p. 274. If there was iron amongft the natives on this part of the American coaft, prior to the difcovery of it by the Ruffians, and before there was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtfchatka, what reafon can there be to make the leaft doubt of the people of Prince William's Sound, as well as thofe of Schumagin's Iflands, having got this metal from the only probable fource, the European fcttlements on the North Eaft coaft of this continent ? their their fea-otter fkins ; which would certainly have been fecn, fome time or other, about Hudfon's Bay. But, as far as I know, that is not the cafe ; and the only method of accounting for this, muft be by taking into confideration the very great diflance; which, though it might not prevent European goods coming fo far, as being fo uncommon, might prevent the fkins, which are a common article, from panning through more than two or three different tribes, who might ufe them for their own clothing; and fend others, which they efleemed lefs valuable, as being of their own animals, Eaftward, till they reach the traders from Europe. CHAP. CHAP. VL Progrefs along the Coafl.—Cape Elizabeth.—Cape St. Hermogenes.—Accounts of Peering j Voyage very defective.—Point Banks—Cape Douglas.—Cape Bede.— Mount St. Auguflin.—Hopes of finding a Paffage up an Inlet.—The Ships proceed up it.—Indubitable Marks of its being a River.— Named C'>oKs River.—The Ships return down it. — Various Vifts from the Natives.— Lieutenant King lands, and takes pofeffon of the Country.—His Report. — The Refolution runs aground on a Shoal. — Reflexions on the Difcovery of Cook's River. — The co?tflderable Tides in it accounted for* 1778, \ FTER leaving Prince William's Sound, I fleered to May. 1\ the South Weil, with a gentle breeze at North North Thurfday"' Ea^' which, at four o'clock, the next morning, was fuc-ceeded by a calm ; and foon after, the calm was fucceeded by a breeze from South Wefl. This frelhening, and veering to North Wefl, we ftill continued to flretch to the South Wefl, and paffed a lofty promontory, fituated in the latitude of 590 io', and the longitude of 2070 45'. As the difcovery of it was connected with the Princefs Elizabeth's birth-day, I named it Cape Elizabeth. Beyond it we could fee no land ; fo that, at firft, we were in hopes that it was the Wellern extremity of the continent; but not long after, we faw our miftake ; for frefli land appeared in fight, bearing Weft South Weft. The The wind, by this time, had increafed to a very flrong x7/8-gale, and forced us to a good diflance from the coafl. In < -v-w the afternoon of the 22d, the gale abated ; and we flood tO Friday 22. the Northward for Cape Elizabeth ; which at noon, the next Saturday 23. day, bore Wefl, ten leagues diflant. At the fame time, a new land was feen, bearing South 770 Well, which was fuppofed to connect Cape Elizabeth with the land we had feen to the We (I ward. The wind continued at Wefl, and T flood to the Southward till noon the next day, when we were within three leagues Sunday 24. of the coafl which we had difcovered on rite 2nd. It here formed a point that bore Wefl North Weft. At the fame time, more land was fecn extending to the Southward, as far as South South Weft; the whole being twelve or fifteen leagues diftant. On it was feen a ridge of mountains covered with fnow, extending to the North Weft, behind the firft land, which we judged to be an ifland, from the very inconfiderable quantity of fnow that lay upon it. This point of land is fituated in the latitude of 5S0 13', and in the longitude of 207' 42'; and by what 1 can gather from the account of Beering's voyage, and the chart that accompanies it in the Englifh edition*, I conclude, that it muft be what he called Cape St. Hermogenes. But the account of that voyage is fo very much abridged, and the chart fo extremely inaccurate, that it is hardly poflible, either by the one or by the other,, or by comparing both together, to find out any one place which that navigator either faw or touched at. Were I to form a judgment of Beering's proceedings on this coaft, I fhould fuppofe, that he fell in with the continent near Mount Fair-weather. But 1 am * Captain Cook means Mullcr's • of which a translation had been publifhed la London fome time before he failed, by 3«4 A VOYAGE-TO »m778, by no means certain, that the bay to which I have given his May. *' J ° '—v—' name, is the place where he anchored. Nor do I know, that - what I called Mount St. Elias, is the fame confpicuous mountain to which he gave that name. And as to his Cape St. Elias, I am entirely at a lofs to pronounce where it lies. On the North Ead fide of Cape St. Hermogenes, the coafl turned toward the North Weft, and appeared to be wholly unconnected with the land feen by us the preceding day. In the chart above mentioned, there is here a fpace, where Beering is fuppofed to have feen no land. This alfo favoured the later account publifhed by Mr. Stsehlin, who makes Cape St. Hermogenes, and all the land that Beering difcovered to the South Weft of it, to be a cluftcr of iflands ; placing St. Hermogenes amongft thofe which arc deftitute of wood. What we now faw, feemed to confirm this ; and every circumftancc infpired us with hopes of finding here a paffage Northward, without being obliged to proceed any farther to the South Weft. We were detained off the Cape, by variable light airs and Monday 25. calms, till two o'clock the next morning, when a breeze fpringing up at North Eaft, we fleered North North Weft along the coaft; and foon found the land of Cape St. Hermogenes to be an ifland, about fix leagues in circuit, feparated from the adjacent coaft by a channel one league broad. A league and a half to the North of this ifland, lie fome rocks, above water; on the North Eaft fide of which we had from thirty to twenty fathoms water. At noon, the ifland of St. Hermogenes bore South half Eaft, eight leagues diftant ; and the land to the North Weft of it, extended from South half Weft to near Weft. In this 8 laft laft direction it ended in a low point, now five leagues dif- W** tant, which was called Point Banks. The latitude of the fhip, s /* / at this time, was 58* 41', and its longitude 207* 44/. In this fituation, the land, which was fuppofed to connect Cape Elizabeth with this South Weft land, was in fight, bearing North Weft half North. I fleered directly for it; and, on a nearer approach, found it to be a group of high iflands and rocks, entirely unconnected with any other land. They obtained the name of Barren IJles from their very naked appearance. Their fituation is in the latitude of 59°, and in a line with Cape Elizabeth and Point Banks; three leagues diftant from the former, and five from the latter. I intended going through one of the channels that divide thefe iflands^; but meeting with a flrong current 'fetting againft us, I bore up, and went to the leeward of them all. Toward the evening, the weather, which had been hazy all day, cleared up, and we got fight of a very lofty promontory, whofe elevated fummit, forming two exceedingly high mountains, was feen above the clouds. This promontory I named Cape Douglas, in honour of my very good friend, Dr. Douglas, canon of Windfor. It is fituated in the latitude of 580 56', and in the longitude of 206* 10'; ten leagues to the Weftward of Barren Ifles; and twelve from Point Banks, in the direction of North Weft by Weft half Weft. Between this point and Cape Douglas, the coaft feemed to form, a large and deep bay; which, from fome fmoke that had been feen on Point Banks, obtained the name of Smokey Bay. At day-break, the next morning, being the 26th, having Tuefdaya6. got to the Northward of the Barren Ifles, we difcovered more land, extending from Cape Douglas to the North. It form- Vol. II. 3d ed ed a chain of mountains of vaft height; one of which, far May. ° —*—j more confpicuous than the reft, was named Mount St, Aw gujlln. The difcovery of this land did not difcourage us ; as it was fuppofed to be wholly unconnected with the land of Cape Elizabeth. For, in a North North Eaft direction, the ftght was unlimited by every thing but the horizon. We alfo thought, that there was a paflagc to the North Weft, between Cape Douglas and Mount St. Auguftin. In fhort, it was imagined, that the land on our larboard, to the North of Cape Douglas, was compofed of a group of iflands, disjoined by fo many channels, any one of which we might make ufe of according as the wind fhould ferve. With thefe flattering ideas, having a frefli gale at North North Eaft, we ftood to the North Weft, till eight o'clock* when wc clearly faw that what we had taken for iflands were fummits of mountains, every where connected by lower land, which the hazinefs of the horizon had prevented us from feeing at a greater diftancc. This land was every where covered with fnow, from the tops of the hills down to the very fea-beach ; and had every other appearance of being part of a great continent. I was now fully perfuaded that I fhould find no paffage by this inlet; and my pcrfevcring in the fearch of it here, was more to fatisfy other people, than to confirm my own opinion. At this time, Mount Sr. Auguftin bore North, 40° Weft, three or four leagues diftant. This mountain is of a conical figure, and of very confiderable heigh.t j but it remains undetermined whether it be an ifland, or part of the continent. Finding, that nothing could be done to the Wefl, we tacked, and ftood over to Cape Elizabeth, under which wc fetched at half paft five in the afternoon. On the North fide of Cape 7 Elizabeth, Elizabeth, between it and a lofty promontory, named Cape ff*-Bede*, is a bay, in the bottom of which there appeared to ~ be two mug harbours. We ftood well into this bay, where we might have anchored in twenty-three fathoms water; but as 1 had no fuch view, we tacked and ftood to the Weftward, with the wind at North, a very ftrong gale, attended by rain, and thick hazy weather. The next morning the gale abated; but the fame weather continued till three o'clock in the afternoon, when it cleared up. Cape Douglas bore South Weft by Weft ; Mount St. Auguftin Weft half South; and Cape Bede South, 15* Eaft, five leagues diftant. In this fituation, the depth of water was forty fathoms, over a rocky bottom. From Cape Bede, the coaft trended North Eaft by Eaft, with a chain of mountains inland, extending in the fame direction. The land on the coaft was woody; and there feemed to be no deficiency of harbours. But what was not much in our favour, wc difcovered low land in the middle of the inlet, extending from North North Eaft, to North Haft by Eaft half Eaft. However, as this was fuppofed to be an ifland, it did not difcouragc us. About this time, we got a light breeze Southerly, and I fleered to the Weftward of this low land; nothing appearing to obftruct us in that direction. Our foundings, during the night, were from thirty co twenty-five fathoms. On the 28th in the morning, having but very little wind, Thurfdayif. and obferving the fhip to drive to the Southward, in order to flop her, I dropped a kedgc-anchor, with an eight inch hawfer bent to it. But, in bringing the fhip up, the hawfer * In naming this, and Mount St. Auguftin, Captain Cook was directed by our Calendar. 3 D 2 parted parted near the inner end ; and we loft both it and the anchor. For although we brought the fhip up with one of the bowers, and fpent mofl of the day in fweeping for them, it was to no effect. By an obfervation, we found our ftation to be in the latitude of 59° 51'; the low land above mentioned extended from North Eafl to South, 75* Eafl; the neareft part two leagues diftant. The land on the Weftern fhore was about feven leagues diftant, and extended from South 35* Weft, to North 70 Eaft ; fo that the extent of the inlet was now reduced to three points and a half of the compafs; that is, from North half Eaft, to North Eaft. Between thefe two points no land was to be feen. Here was a flrong tide fetting to the Southward out of the inlet. It was the ebb, and ran between three and four knots in an hour; and it was low water at ten o'clock. A good deal of fea-weed, and fome drift-wood, were carried out with the tide. The water too had become thick like that in rivers ; but we were encouraged to proceed by finding it as fait at low water as the ocean. The ftrength of the flood-tide was three knots; and the ftream ran up till four in the afternoon. As it continued calm all day, I did not move till eight o'clock in the evening; when, with a light breeze at Eaft, we weighed, and ftood to the North, up the inlet. We had not been long under fail, before the wind veered to the North, increafing to a frefh gale, and blowing in fqualls, with rain. This did not, however, hinder us from plying up as long as the flood continued ; which was till near five o'clock the next morning. We had foundings from thirty-five to twenty-four fathoms. In this laft depth we anchored about two leagues from the Eaftern fhore, in the latitude of 6o* 8'; fome low land, that we judged to be an ifland, lying under 1 the the Weflern more, extended from North half Wefl, to North 1778. Wefl by North, diflant three or four leagues. ^,M^'_, The weather had now become fair and tolerably clear; fo that we could fee any land that might lie within our ho- -rizon; and in a North North Eafl direction no land, nor any thing to obflruct our progrefs, was vifible. But, on each fide was a ridge of mountains, rifing one behind another, without the leafl feparation. I judged it to be low water, by the fhore, about ten o'clock; but the ebb ran down till near noon. The flrength of it was four knots and a half ; and it fell, upon a perpendicular, ten feet three inches, that is, while we lay an anchor; fo that there is reafon to believe this was not the greatefl fall. On the Eaflern fhore wc now faw two columns of fmoke, a fure fign that there were inhabitants. Atone in the afternoon wc weighed, and plyed up under double-reefed top-fails and courfcs, having a very flrong gale at North North Eafl, nearly right down the inlet. We ilretched over to the Weflern fhore, and fetched within two leagues of the South end of the low land, or ifland before mentioned, under which I intended to have taken fhelter till the gale fhould ceafe. But falling fuddenly into twelve fathoms water, from upward of forty, and feeing the appearance of a fhoal ahead, fpitting out from the low land, I tacked, and flretched back to the Eaflward; and anchored under that fhore in nineteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fmall pebble floncs. Between one and two in the morning of the 30th, we _ . 0 ( ** Saturday 30. weighed again with the firfl of the flood, the gale having, by this time, quite abated, but flill continuing contrary; fo that we plied up till near feven o'clock, when the tide being being done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, tinder the fame fhore as before. The North Weft part of it, forming a bluff point, bore North, 200 Eaft, two leagues diftant; a point on the other fhore oppofitc to it, and nearly of the fame height, bore North, 36° Weft ; our latitude, by obfervation, 6o° 37'. About noon, two canoes, with a man in each, came off to .the fhip, from near the place where we had feen the fmoke the preceding day. They laboured very hard in paddling acrofs the flrong tide \ and hcfitated a little before they would come quite clofe ; but upon figns being made to them, they approached One of them talked a great deal to no purpofe ; for we did not underfland a word he faid. He kept pointing to the fhore, which we interpreted to be an invitation to go thither. They accepted a few trifles from me, which I conveyed to them from the quarter-gallery. Thefe men, in every refpecT, refembled the people we had met with in Prince William's Sound as to their perfons and drefs. Their canoes were alfo of the fame conftruction. One of our vifiters had his face painted jet black, and feemed to have no beard; but the other, who was more elderly, had no paint, and a confiderable beard, with a vifage much like the common fort of the Prince William's people. There was alfo fmoke feen upon the flat Weflern more this day, from whence we may infer, that thefe lower fpots, and iflands, are the only inhabited places. When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes left us. I ftood over to the Weflern fhore, with a frefh gale at North North Eaft, and fetched under the point above mentioned. This, with the other on the oppofite fhore, contracted the channel to the breadth of four leagues. Through this this channel ran a prodigious tide. It looked frightful to w*' us, who could not tell whether the agitation of the water 1___***** was occafioned by the ftream. or by the breaking of the waves again!! rocks or fands. As we met with no fhoal, it was concluded to be the former; but, in the end, we found ourfelves millaken. I now kept the Weflern fhore aboard, it appearing to be the fafeft. Near the fhore we had a depth of thirteen fathoms ; and two or three miles off, forty and upward. At eight in the evening, we anchored under a point of land which bore North Eaft, three leagues diflant, in fifteen fathoms water. Here we lay during the ebb, which run near five knots in the hour. Until we got thus far, the water had retained the fame degree of faitnefs at low, as at high-water; and, at both periods, was as fait as that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river difplayed themfelvcs. The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowed, was found to be very confiderably freiher, than any we had hitherto tailed ; infomuch that I was convinced that we were in a large river, and not in a flrait, communicating with the Northern feas. But as we had proceeded thus far, I was defirous of having ftronger proofs; and, therefore, weighed with the next flood in the morning of the 31 ft, and piied higher up, or rather drove Sundays?* up with the tide; for we had but little wind. About eight o'clock, we were vifited by feveral of the natives, in one large, and feveral fmall canoes. The latter carried only one perfon each j and fome had a paddle with a blade at each end, after the manner of the Efquimaux. In-the large canoes were men, women, and children. Before they reached the fhip, they difplayed a leathern frock upon a long pole, as a fign, as we underftood it, of their peaceable intentions, intentions. This frock they conveyed into the fhip, in return for fome trifles which I gave them. I could obferve no difference between the perfons, drefs, ornaments, and boats of thefe people, and thofe of Prince William's Sound, except that the fmall canoes were rather of a lefs fize, and carried only one man. We procured from them fome of their fur dreffes, made of the fkins of fea-otters, martins, hares, and other animals ; a few of their darts ; and a fmall fupply of falmon and halibut. In exchange for thefe they took old clothes, beads, and pieces of iron. We found that they were in poffeflion of large iron knives, and of fky-bluc glafs beads, fuch as we had found amongfl the natives of Prince William's Sound. Thefe latter they feemed to value much, and confequcntly thofe which we now gave them. But their inclination led them, efpccially, to afk for large pieces of iron; which metal, if I was not much miflaken, they called by the name of goone; though, like their neighbours in Prince William's Sound, they feemed to have many fignifications to one word. They evidently fpoke the fame language ; as the words keeta, naema, ooiiaka, and a few others of the mofl common we heard in that Sound, were alfo frequently ufed by, this new tribe. After fpending about two hours between the one fhip and the other, they all retired to the Weflern fhore. At nine o'clock, we came to an anchor, in fixtcen fathoms water, about two leagues from the Well fhore, and found the ebb already begun. At its greatefl flrength, ir ran only three knots in the hour, and fell, upon a perpendicular, after we had anchored, twenty-one feet. The weather was mifty, with drizling rain, and clear, by turns. At the clear intervals, we.faw an opening between the mountains on the Eaflern fhore, bearing Eafl from the flation of the fhips, with with low land, which we fuppofed to be iilands lying be- jjgj; tween us and the main land. Low land was alfo fecn to the *—-v-—j Northward, that feemed to extend from the foot of the mountains on the one fide, to thofe on the other; and, at low water, we perceived large llioals llretching out from tlris low land; fome of which were at no great diilance from us. From thefe appearances, we were in fome doubt whether the inlet did not take an Eafterly direction, through the above opening ; or whether that opening was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued its Northern direction through the low land now in fight. The continuation and direction of the chain of mountains on each fide of it, ftrongly indicated the probability of the latter fup-polition. To determine this point, and to examine the fhoals, I difpatched two boats, under the command of the mafter ; and, as foon as the flood-tide made, followed with the fliips: but, as it was a dead calm, and the tide flrong, I anchored, after driving about ten miles in an Eaft direction. At the lowcft of the preceding ebb, the water at the furface, and for near a foot below it, was found to be perfectly frefli; retaining, however, a confiderable degree of faltnefs at a greater depth. Befides this, we had now many -oilier, and but too evident, proofs of being in a great river. Such as low mores; very thick and muddy water; large trees, and all manner of dirt and rubbifh, floating up and down with the tide. In the afternoon, the natives, in fevcral canoes, paid us another vifit; and trafficked with our people for fome time, without ever giving us reafon to accufe them of any act of difhonefty. Vol. II. 3 E At » •778. At two o'clock next morning, being the iftof June, the »——t mailer returned, and reported that he found the inlet, or, Monday i. j^jj^ river, contracted to the breadth of one league, by low land on each fide, through which it took a Northerly direction. He proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigable for the largcll fliips, being from twenty to feventcen fathoms deep. The lead water, at a proper diflance from the fhore and flioals, was ten fathoms ; and this was before he entered the narrow part. While the ebb or flrcam run down, the water was perfectly frefli; but, after the flood made, it became brackifh ; and, toward high water, very much fo, even as high up as lie went. He landed upon an iiland, which lies between this branch and the Eaftern one ; and upon it faw fome currant bufhes, with the fruit already fet; and fome other fruit-trees and bufhes, unknown to him. The foil appeared to be clay, mixed with fand. About three leagues beyond the extent of his fearch, or to the Northward of it, he obferved there was another fcparation in the Eaftcrn chain of mountains, through which he fuppofed the river took a North Eaft direction ; but it feemed rather more probable that this was only another branch, and that the main channel kept its Northern direction, between the two ridges or chains of mountains before mentioned. He found that thefe two ridges, as they extended to the North, inclined more and more to each other, but never appeared to clofe j nor was any elevated land feen between them, only low land, part woody, and part clear. All hopes of finding a paffage were now given up. But as the ebb was almofl fpent, and we could not return againft the flood, 1 thought I might as well take the advantage of the the latter, to get a nearer view of the Eaflcrn branch j and, by that means, finally to determine whether the low land on the Eaft fide of the river was an ifland, as we had fuppofed, or not. With this purpofe in view, we weighed with the firft of the flood, and, having a faint breeze at North Fall, flood over for the Eaflcrn fhore, with boats ahead, founding. Our depth was from twelve to five fathoms; the bottom a hard gravel, though the water was exceedingly muddy. At eight o'clock, a frefh breeze fprung up at Eaft, blowing in an oppofite direction to our courfe; fo that I defpaired of reaching the entrance of the river, to which we were plying up, before high-water. But thinking that what the fhips could not do, might be done by boats, I difpatched two, under the command of Lieutenant King, to examine the tides, and to make fuch other obfervations as might give us fome infight into the nature of the river. At ten o'clock, finding the ebb begun, I anchored in nine fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. Obfcrving the tide to be too flrong for the boats to make head againft it, I made a fignal for them to return on board, before they had got half way to the entrance of the river they were fent to examine, which bore from us South 8o° Eafl, three leagues diftant. The principal information gained by this tide's work, was the determining that all the low land, which we had fuppofed to be an ifland or iflands, was one continued tract, from the banks of the great river, to the foot of the mountains, to which it joined ; and that it terminated at the South entrance of this Eaflcrn branch, which I fhall diftin-guifh by the name of River Tumagain. On the North fide of this river, the low land again begins, and flretchcs out from the foot of the mountains, down to the banks of the great river; fo that, before the river Turnngain, it forms a 3 E 2 large 396 A V O Y A G E TO J/7?- latyc bay, on the South fide of which we were now at an- June* ^ ^ chor; and where wc had from twelve to live fathoms, from half-flood to high-water. After we had entered the bay, the flood fet flrong into the river Turnagain j and ebb came out with ftill greater force ; the water falling, while we lay at anchor, twenty feet upon a perpendicular. Thefe circumflances convinced me, that no paffage was to be expected by this fide river, any more than by the main branch. However, as the water during the ebb, though very confiderably frefher, had Hill a flrong degree of faltncfs, it is but reafonable to fuppofe, that both thefe branches are navigable by fliips, much farther than we examined them ; and that by means of this river, and its feveral branches, a very extenfive inland communication lies, open. We had traced it as high as the latitude of 6i° 30', and the longitude of 210°; which is feventy leagues, or more, from its entrance, without feeing the leaft appearance of its fource. If the difcovery of this great river *, which promifes to vie with the mofl confiderable ones already known to be capable of extenfive inland navigation, fhould prove of ufe cither to the prefent, or to any future age, the time we fpent in it ought to be the lefs regretted. But to us, who had a much greater object in view, the delay thus occafioned was an effential lofs. The feafon was advancing apace. Wc knew not how far we might have to proceed to the South • and wc were now convinced, that the continent of North America extended farther to the Weft, than, from the mo- * Captain Cook having here left a blank which he had not filled up with any particular name, Lord Sandwich directed, with the greateft propriety, that it fhould be called Cook's River. dern dcrn moft reputable charts, we had reafon to expect. This made the exigence of a paffage into Baffin's or Hudfon's Bays lefs probable ; or, at leafl, fhe wed it to be of greater extent. It was a fatisfaction to me, however, to reflect, that, if I had not examined this very confiderable inlet, it would have been affumed, by fpeculative fabricators of geography, as a fact, that it communicated with the fea to the North, or with Baffin's or Hudfon's Bay to the Eaftj and been marked, perhaps, on future maps of the world, with greater precifion, and more certain figns of reality, than the invifible, becaufe imaginary, Straits of de Fuca, and de Fontc. In the afternoon, I fent Mr. King again, with two armed boats, with orders to land, on the Northern point of the low land, on the South Eafl fide of the river; there to dif-play the flag to take poffeflion of the country and river, in his Maj city's name j and to bury in the ground a bottle, containing fome pieces of Englifh coin, of the year 1772, and a paper, on which was inferibed the names of our fhips,. and the date of our difcovery. In the mean time, the fhips were got under fail, in order to proceed down the river. The wind ftill blue frefh, Eaflerly; but a calm enfued, not long after we were under way ; and the flood-tide meeting us off the point where Mr. King landed (and which thence got the name of Point Pojfeffiori), we were obliged to drop anchor in fix fathoms water, with the point bearing South, two miles diflant. When Mr. King returned, he informed me, that as he approached the fhore, about twenty of the natives made their appearance, with their arms extended j probably, to exprefs thus their peaceable difpofition, and to fliew that they weie 4 without. 1778- without weapons. On Mr. King's, and the gentlemen with June. * t • 1 1 1 j v_ him, landing, with mufquets in their hands, they feemed alarmed, and made figns exprefllve of their requeft to lay them down. This was accordingly done ; and then they fuffered the gentlemen to walk up to them, and appeared to be cheerful and fociable. They had with them a few pieces of frefli falmon, and fevcral dogs. Mr. Law, furgeon of the Difcovery, who was one of the parry, having bought one of the latter, took it down toward the boat, and fliot it dead, in their fight. This feemed to furprize them exceedingly; and, as if they did not think themfelves fafe in fuch company, they walked away; but it was foon after difcovered, that their fpears, and other weapons, were hid in the buflies clofe behind them. Mr. King alfo informed me, that the ground was fwampy, and the foil poor, light, and black. It produced a few trees and ilirubs; fuch as pines, alders, birch, and willows ; rofe and currant buflies; and a little grafs; but they faw not a fingle plant in flower. We weighed anchor, as foon as it was high water; and, with a faint breeze Southerly, ftood over to the Weft fhore, where the return of the flood obliged us to anchor early next Tuefdaya. morning. Soon after, feveral large, and fome fmall canoes, with natives, came off, who bartered their fkins; after which they fold their garments, till many of them were quite naked. Amongft others, they brought a number of white hair or rabbit fkins; and very beautiful reddifh ones of foxes; but there were only two or three fkins of otters. They alfo fold us fome pieces of falmon and halibut. They preferred iron to every thing elfe offered to them in exchange. The lip-ornaments did not feem fo frequent amongft them, as at Prince William's Sound; but they had more of thofe which pafs through the nofe, and, in general, thefe thefe were alfo much longer. They had, however, a greater j77«-quantity of a kind of white and red embroidered work on ^—* fome parts of their garments, and on other things, fuch as their quivers, and knife-cafes. At half pad ten, we weighed with the firfl of the ebb, and having a gentle breeze at South, plied down the river; in the doing of which, by the inattention and neglect of the man at the lead, the Refolution flruck, and fluck fafl on a bank, that lies nearly in the middle of the river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points before mentioned. This bank was, no doubt, the occafion of that very flrong rippling, or agitation of the flream, which we had obferved when turning up the river. There was not lefs than twelve feet depth of water about the fhip, at the lowefl of the ebb; but other parts of the bank were dry. As foon as the ihip came aground, I made a fignal for the Difcovery to anchor. She, as I afterward underflood, had been near afhore on the Wed fide of the bank. As the flood-tide came in, the fhip floated off, foon after five o'clock in the afternoon, without receiving the leaft damage, or giving us any trouble ; and, after Handing over to the Wefl fhore, into deep water, we anchored to wait for the ebb, as the wind was ftill contrary. Wc weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night; and, between four and five next morning, when the tide was Wednef.3. finifhed, once more call anchor about tv/o miles below the bluff point, on the Weft fhore, in nineteen fathoms water. A good many of the natives came off, when wc were in this ilation, and attended upon us all the morning. Their company was very acceptable; for they brought with them a large quantity of very fine falmon, which they exchanged for 2 fuch 1773- fuch trifles as we had to give them. Mofl of it was fplit •. ready for drying; and feveral hundred weight of it was pro-cured for the two fhips. In the afternoon, the mountains, for the firft time fince our entering the river, were clear of clouds; and we difcovered a volcano in one of thofe on the Welt fide. It is in the latitude of 6o° 23'; and is the firfl high mountain to the North of Mount St. Augufline. The volcano is on that fide of it that is next the river, and not far from the fummit. It did not now make any finking appearance, emitting only a white fmoke, but no fire. The wind remaining Southerly, wc continued to tide it d*y 5- down the river ; and, on the 5th, in the morning, coming to the place where we had lofl our kedge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without fucccfs. Before we left this place, fix canoes came off from the Eafl fhore; fome conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained at a little diflance from the fhips, viewing them, with a kind of filent furprize, at leaf! half an hour, without exchanging a fingle word with us, or with one another. At length, they took courage, and came along fide; began to barter with our people ; and did not leave us till they had parted with every thing they brought with them, confining of a few fkins and fome falmon. And here it may not he improper to remark, that all the people we had met with in this river, feemed, by every linking inftance of refemblance, to be of the fame nation with thofe who inhabit Prince William's Sound, but differing cfientially from thofe of Nootka, or King George's Sound, both in their perfons and language. The language of thefe is rather more guttural ; 1 * tural; but, like the others, they fpeak ftrongly and diftincT, in words which feem fentences. I have before obferved, that they are in poffeflion of iron; that is, they have the points of their fpears and knives of this metal; and fome of the former are alfo made of copper. Their fpears are like our fpontoons; and their knives, which they keep in /heaths, are of a confiderable length. Thefe with a few glafs beads, are the only things we faw amongft them that were not of their own manufacture. I have already offered my conjectures from whence they derive their foreign articles; and mall only add here, that, if it were probable that they found their way to them from fuch of their neighbours with whom the Ruffians may have efta-blifhed a trade, I will be bold to fay, the Ruffians them-felves have never been amongft them : for if that had been the cafe, we fhould hardly have found them clothed in fuch valuable fkins as thofe of the fea-otter. There is not the leaft doubt, that a very beneficial fur trade might be carried on with the inhabitants of this vaft coaft. But unlefs a Northern paffage fhould be found practicable, it feems rather too remote for Great Britain to receive any emolument from it. It muft, however, be obferved, that the moft valuable, or rather the only valuable fkins, I faw on this Weft fide of America, were thofe of the fea-otter. All their other fkins feemed to be of an inferior quality; particularly thofe of their foxes and martins. It muft alfo be obferved, that moft of the fkins, which we pur-chafed, were made up into garments. However, fome of thefe were in good condition ; but others were old and ragged enough; and all of them very loufy. But as thefe poor people make no other ufe of fkins but for clothing them- Vol. II. 3 F felves, tint4 fclves» 11 cannot be fuppofed that they are at the trouble of v—drcfling more of them than are neceffary for this purpofe. And, perhaps, this is the chief ufe for which they kill the animals; for the fea and the rivers feem to fupply them with their principal articles of food. It would, probably, be much otherwife, were they once habituated to a conftant trade with foreigners. This intercourfe would increafe their wants, by introducing them to an acquaintance with new luxuries ; and, in order to be enabled to purchafe thefe, they would be more alliduous in procuring fkins, which they would foon difcover to be the commodity mofl fought for; and a plentiful fupply of which, I make no doubt, would be had in the country. It will appear, from what has been faid occafionally of the tide, that it is confiderable in this river, and contributes very much to facilitate the navigation of it. It is high-water in the flream, on the days of the new and full moon, between two and three o'clock; and the tide riles, upon a perpendicular, between three and four fathoms. The reafon of the tide's being greater here, than at other parts of this coafl, is eafdy accounted for. The mouth of the river being fitu-ated in a corner of the coafl, the flood that comes from the ocean is forced into it by both mores, and by that means fwells the tide to a great height. A view of the chart will illuflrate this. The variation of the compafs was 250 40' Eafl. CHAP. CHAP. VII. Difcoveries after leaving CooKs River.—If and of St. Hermogenes.—Cape ffibitfunday.—Cape Greville.— Cape Barnabas. —Two - headed Point.—Trinity If and.—Peering s Foggy Iflandt—A beautiful bird defcribed.—Ko-diak a?id the Sebum agin Iflands.—A Ruffian Letter brought on board by a Native.—Conjeclures about it.—-Rock Point.—Halibut Ifland.—A Voleano Mountain.—■ Providential Efcape.—Arrival of the Ships at Oona-lafchka.—Intercourfe with the Natives there.—Another Ruffian Letter.—Samganoodha Harbour defcribed. A S foon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed. !7?8- ° ' June. and, with alight breeze, between Weft South Weft, and *-—>-w Friday e. South South Weft, plied down the river, till the flood obliged us to anchor again. At length, about one o'clock, next morning, a Saturday 6.v frefh breeze fprung up at Weft, with which we got under fail, and, at eight, paffed the Barren Iflands, and ftretched away for Cape St. Hermogenes. At noon, this Cape bore South South Eaft, eight leagues diftant; and the paffage between the ifland of that name, and the main land, bore South. For this paffage I fleered, intending to go through it. But foon after the wind failed us ; and we had baffling light airs from the Eaftward ; fo that I gave up my defign of carrying the fliips between the Iiland and the main. 3 F 2 At At this time, we faw feveral columns of fmoke, on the coafl of the continent, to the Northward of the paffage; and, mofl probably, they were meant as fignals to attract us thither. Here the land forms a bay, or perhaps a harbour ; off the North Wefl point of which lies a low, rocky ifland. There are alfo fome other iflands of the fame appearance, fcattered along the coaft, between this place and Point Banks. At eight in the evening, the ifland of St. Hermogenes extended from South half Eafl, to South South Eafl, a quarter Eafl; and the rocks that lie on the North fide of it bore South Eafl, three mile3 diflant. In this fituation, we had forty fathoms water over a bottom of fand and fhells. Soon after, on putting over hooks and lines, we caught feveral halibut. At midnight, being pafl the rocks, we bore up to the Southward; and, at noon, St. Hermogenes bore North* four leagues diflant. At- this time, the Southernmofl point of the main land, within or to the Weftward of St. Hermogenes, lay North half Weft, diftant five leagues. This promontory, which is fituated in the latitude of 580 15', and in the longitude of 2070 24', was named, after the day, Cape Whitjunday. A large bay, which lies to the Weft of it, obtained the name of Whitfuntide Bay. The land on the Eaft fide of this bay, of which Cape Whitfunday is the Southern point, and Point Banks the Northern one, is, in all re-fpects, like the ifland of St. Hermogenes; feemingly def-titute of wood, and partly free from fnow. It was fuppofed to be covered with a moffy fubflance, that gave it a brownifh eaft. There were fome reafons to think it was an ifland. If this be fo, the laft mentioned bay is only 2. the THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 405 the {trait or paffage that feparates it from the main w*- June. land. «—r—0, Between one and two in the afternoon, the wind, which had been at North Eaft, ihifted at once to the Southward. It was unfettled till fix, when it fixed at South, which was the very direction of our courfe ; fo that we were obliged to ply up the coalt. The weather was gloomy, and the air dry, but cold. We flood to the Eaftward till midnight; then tacked, and flood in for the land ; and, between feven and eight in the morning of the 8th, we were within four miles Mondays, of it, and not more than half a league from fome funken rocks, which bore Weft South Welt. In this fituation we tacked in thirty-five fathoms water, the iiland of St. Hermogenes bearing North, qo° Eafl, and the Southernmost land in light, South. In Handing in for this coafl, we croffed the mouth of Whitfuntide Bay, and faw land all round the bottom of it; fo that either the land is connected, or elfe the points lock in, one behind another. I am more inclined to think, that the former is the cafe ; and that the land, Eaft of the bay, is a part of the continent. Some fmall iflands lie on the Welt of the bay. The fea-coafl to the Southward of it is rather low, with projecting rocky points, between which are fmall bays or inlets. There was no wood, and but little fnow upon the coafl; but the mountains, which lie at fome diflance inland, were wholly covered with the latter. We flood off till noon ; then tacked, and flood in for the land. The latitude, at this time, was 57* 52.!.'; Cape St. Hermogenes bore North, 3o° Wefl, eight leagues diflant; and the Southern-mofl part of the coaft in fight, the fame that was feen before, bore South Wefl, ten leagues diflant. The land here forms a point, which was named Cape Greville. It lies in ths the latitude of 570 33', and in the longitude of 207° 15' ; and is diflant fifteen leagues from Cape St. Hermogenes, in the direction of South, 170 Wefl. TuefcUy 9. The three following days we had almofl conflant mifly Wednef. 10. Thuridayii. weather, with drizzling rain ; fo that we feldom had a fight of the coafl. The wind was South Eafl by South, and South South Eafl, a gentle breeze, and the air raw and cold. With this wind and weather, we continued to ply up the coafl, making boards of fix or eight leagues each. The depth of water was from thirty td fifty-five fathoms, over a coarfe, black fandy bottom. The fog clearing up, with the change of the wind to South Friday 12. Wefl, in the evening of the 12th, we had a fight of the land bearing Wefl, twelve leagues diflant. We flood in for it early next morning. At noon we were not above three miles from it; an elevated point, which obtained the name of Cape Barnabas, lying in the latitude of 57* 13' bore North North Eafl half Eafl, ten miles diflant; and the coafl extended from North, 420 Eafl, to Wefl South Weft. The North Eaft extreme was loft in a haze ; but the point to the South Weft, whofe elevated fummit terminated in two round hills; on that account was called Two headed Point. This part of the coaft, in which arc feveral fmall bays, is compofed of high hills and deep vallies; and in fome places we could fee the tops of other hills, beyond thofe that form the coaft ; which was but little incumbered with fnow, but had a very barren appearance. Not a tree or bufh was to be feen upon it; and, in general, it had a brownifh hue, probably the effect, of a moily covering. I continued to ply to the South Weft by Weft, as the coaft trended ; and, at fix in the evening, being midway between 6 Cape Cape Barnabas and Two-headed Point, and two leagues June. from the fhore, the depth of water was fixty two fathoms. 1-„—-* From this flation, a low point of land made its appearance beyond Two-headed Point, bearing South, 690 Weil; and, without it, other land that had the appearance of an iiland, bore South, 59* Wefl. At noon, on the 13th, being in latitude 56* 49', Cape St.Bar- Saturdayij. nabas bore North, 52° Eafl; Two-headed Point North, 14° Wefl, feven or eight miles diftant; and the coaft of the con- * tinent extended as far as South, 724.0 Weft ; and the land feen the preceding evening, and fuppofed to be an ifland, now appeared like two iflands. From whatever quarter Two-headed Point was viewed, it had the appearance of being an ifland; or elfe it is a peninfula, on each fide of which the fhore forms a bay. The wind ftill continued Wefterly, a gentle breeze ; the weather rather dull and cloudy, and the air fharp and dry. We were well up with the Southernmoft land next morn- Sunday 14. ing, and found it to be an ifland, which was named Trinity Ifland. Its greateft extent is fix leagues in the direction of fc^aft and Weft. Each end is elevated naked land, and in the middle it is low; fo that, at a diflance, from fome points of view, it affumes the appearance of two iflands. It lies in the latitude of 560 36' and in the longitude of 2050; and between two and three leagues from the continent; which fpace is interfperfed with fmall iflands and rocks; but there feemed to be good paffage enough, and alfo fafe anchorage*. At firft, we were inclined to think, that this was Beering's Foggy I/Iand*; but its fituation fo near the main does not fuiu his chart. * Tumannm-oflrcwy e'eft-a-dire, Uijle Nebuhufe. Muller, p. 261. At June' ^t eiSnt ul tne evening, we flood in for the land, till we v—^ were within a league of the above-mentioned fmall iflands. The Weflernmofl part of the continent now in fight, being a low point facingTrinity Ifland, and which we called CapeTrini-ty> now bore Wefl North Wefl. Inthis fituation, having tacked in fifty-four fathoms water, over a bottom of black fand, we flood over for the ifland, intending to work up between it and the main. The land to the Weftward of Two-headed Point, is not fo mountainous as it is to the North Eaft of it, nor does fo much fnow lie upon it. There are, however, a good many hills confiderably elevated; but they are dif-joined by large tracts of flat land that appeared to be perfectly deftitute of wood, and very barren. As we were ftanding over toward the ifland, we met two men in a fmall canoe, paddling from it to the main. Far from approaching us, they feemed rather to avoid it. The wind now began to incline to the South; and we had reafon to expect, that it would foon be at South Eaft. Experience having taught us, that a South Eafterly wind was here generally, if not always, accompanied by a thick fog, I was afraid to venture through between the ifland and the continent, left the paffage fhould not be accomplished before night, or before the thick weather came on; when we fhould be obliged to anchor, and, by that means, lofe the advantage of a fair wind. Thefe reafons induced me to ftretch out to fea; and we paffed two or three rocky iflots that lie near the Eaft end of Trinity Ifland. At four in the afternoon, having weathered the ifland, we tacked, and fleered Weft, Southerly, with a frefli gale at South South Eaft; which, before midnight, veered to the South Eaft ; and was, as ufual, attended with mifty, drizzling, rainy weather. By By the courfe we fleered all night, I was in hopes of fall- !77^r - , * .• . . , June. ing in with the continent m the morning. And, doubtlefs, *—-v_* we fliould have feen it, had the weather been, in the leafl, Monday I5< clear; but the fog prevented. Seeing no land at noon, and the gale increafing, with a thick fog and rain, I fleered Wefl North Wefl, under fuch fail as we could eafily haul the wind with; being fully fenfible of the danger of running before a flrong gale in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown coafl. It was, however, neceffary to run fome rifk when the, wind favoured us; for clear weather, we had found, was generally accompanied with winds from the Weft. Between two and three in the afternoon, land was feen through the fog, bearing North Weft, not more than three or four miles diftant. Upon this, we immediately hauled up South, clofe to the wind. Soon after, the two courfcs were fplit, fo that we had others to bring to the yards ; and feveral others of our fails received confiderable damage. At nine, the gale abated ; the weather cleared up; and we got fight of the coaft again, extending from Weft by South to North Weft, about four or five leagues diflant. On founding, we found a hundred fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. Soon after, the fog returned, and we faw no more of the land all night. At four next morning, the fog being now difperfed, We Tuefchy i5. found ourfclves in a manner furrounded by land; the continent, or what was fuppofed to be the continent, extending from Weft South Weft to North Eaft by North ; and fome elevated land bearing South Eaft half South; by cftimation eight or nine leagues diflant. 'fhe North Eaft extreme of the main was the fame point of land that we had fallen in Vol. II, 3 G with Mo AVOYAGETO »778- with during the fog; and we named it Foggy Cape. It lies v, mem*** in latitude 56° 31', At this time, having had but little wind all night, a breeze fprung up at North Weft. With this we ftood to the Southward, to make the land, feen in that direction, plainer. At nine o'clock, we found it to be an ifland of about nine leagues in compafs j lying in the latitude of 560 10', and in the longitude of 2020 45'; and it is diftinguifhcd in our chart by the name of Foggy Ifland; having reafon to believe, from its fituation, that it is the fame which had that name given to it by Beering. At the fame time, three or four iflands, lying before a bay, formed by the coaft of the main land, bore North by Weft; a point, with three or four pinnacle rocks upon it, which was called Pinnacle Point, bore North Weft by Weft; and a clufter of fmall iflots, or rocks, lying about nine leagues from the coaft, South South Eaft. At noon, when our latitude was 560 9', and our longitude 201° 45', thefe rocks bore South, 5S0 Eaft, ten miles diftant; Pinnacle Point, North North Weft, diftant feven leagues; the neareft part of the main land North Weft by Weft, fix leagues diftant; and the moft advanced land to the South Weft, which had the appearance of being an ifland, bore Weft, a little Southerly. In the afternoon, we had little or no wind ; fo that our progrefs was inconfiderable. At eight in the evening, the coaft extended from South Weft to North North Eaft ; the neareft part about eight leagues diftant. Wednef. i7. On the 17th, the wind was between Weft and North Weft, a gentle breeze, and fometimes almofl calm. The weather was clear, and the air fharp and dry. At noon, the continent extended from South Weft to North by Eaft; the neareft part feven leagues diftant. A large group of iflands lying 2 about • Ww ot'the Land to the X'1 r/' tofggf Ifland A Aavvu S.W.tW.jleaifdut. and \sit'e,rt / le/c'dist. I'iiititH'ic r' Wilu/h del 'iiuiiiclc 1'.' View of the L and the Weft'! of Pinnacle Point when ////-Point bore N.W.s or (> feetyiut diet. XI Richland iivm .ivvw //> ///<• ;V A' c/" PintiacU- Point., but it ifo.r too cloudy to srr any part distinctly- View tff the [.and n//w Pinnacle Point bore N.'i W. fforf Itaf dilt. la_____» If . View of the Iflands ,•///✓/ Main Land r the Coast of AM eb1ca ir/w« Ilallilxil Head bore N43W.ditt.3hmf. Vicw of the Line) ^« ///, Coast w'AMKKK'A ;i7//y/ Volcano hore NNE'•/ E. mid the Sou fort o/' Ooneinak .\' fo If dtsf 7 ten s ■■■fBnffteagg.*__■ Wtliob del View ,-/'///< Land N w'Kound Hill Iiland //// Ifland V If.- (/.',/>.,■/., Un Cape 1' plight Pinnacle's Ifland View Gore's Ifland when Cape I'prio-lit bore NN.W-3 ttiitej /list ./.Hohher about the fame diftance from the continent, extended from <77j South 260 Weft, to South 520 Weft. It was calm great part of the 18th ; and the weather was Thurfdayis. clear and plcafant. We availed ourfelves of this, by making obfervations for the longitude and variation. The latter was found to be 210 27' Eaft. There can be no doubt that there is a continuation of the continent between Trinity Iftand and Foggy Cape, which the thick weather prevented us from feeing. For fome diftance to the South Weft of that Cape, this country is more broken or rugged than any part we had yet feen, both with refpect. to the hills thcmfelves, and to the coaft, which feemed full of creeks, or fmall inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great depth. Perhaps, upon a clofer examination, fome of the projecting points between thefe inlets will be found to be iflands. Every part had a very barren afpect; and was covered with fnow, from the fummits of the higheft hills, down to a very fmall diftance from the fea-coaft. Having occafion to fend a boat on board the Difcovery, one of the people in her fhot a very beautiful bird of the awk kind. It is fomcwhat'lcfs than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore-part of the head, which is white; and from above and behind each eye arifes an elegant yel-lowifh- white creft, revolved backward as a ram's horn. The bill and feet are red. It is, perhaps, the alca vionochroa of Steller, mentioned in the Hiftory of Kamtfchatka*. I think the firft of thefe birds was feen by us, a little to the Southward of Cape St. Hermogenes. From that time, wc generally faw fome of them every day; and fometimes in large * P. 153. Eng. Tranf. 3 G 2 flocks. 1778. flocks. Befides thefe, we daily faw mofl of the other fea- June. , y e—^^_r birds, that are commonly found in other Northern oceans.j fuch as gulls, fhags, puffins, fhecrwaters ; and fometimes ducks, geefe, and fwans. And fcldom a day paffed without feeing feals, whales, and other large fifh. In the afternoon, we got a light breeze of wind Southerly, which enabled us to fleer Wefl, for the channel that appeared between the iflands and the continent; and, at day break Friday i9. next morning, we were at no great diflance from it, and found feveral oilier iflands, within thofe already feen by us, of various extent both in height and circuit. But between thefe laft iflands, and thofe before feen, there feemed to be a clear channel, for which I fleered, being afraid to keep the coafl of the continent aboard, left we mould miflake fome point of it for an ifland, and, by that means, be drawn into fome inlet, and lofe the advantage of the fair wind, which at this time blew. I therefore kept along the Southernmofl chain of iflands; and at noon we were in the latitude of 550 18', and in the narrowefl part of the channel, formed by them and thofe which lie along the continent, where it is about a league and a half, or two leagues over. The largefl iiland in this group was now on our left, and is diflinguifhed by the name of Kodiak*, according to the information we afterward received. I left the refl of them without names. I believe them to be the fame that Beering calls SchumaghVs Iflands -f; or thofe iflands which he called by that name, to be a part of them ; for this group is pretty extenfive. We * See an Account of Kodiak, in Stashlin's New Northern Archipelago, f See Mullcr's Decouvertes dss Rujfts, p. 262—277. faw faw iflands as far to the Southward as an ifland could be feen. They commence in the longitude of 2000 15' Eaft, and extend a degree and a half, or two degrees, to the Weftward. I cannot be particular} as we could not diftinguifh all the iflands from the coaft of the continent. Moft of thefe iflands are of a good height, very barren and rugged ; abounding with rocks and ftcep cliffs, and exhibiting other romantic appearances. There are feveral fnug bays and coves about them ; ftreams of frefh water run from their elevated parts ; fome drift wood was floating around ; but not a tree or bufli was to be feen growing on the land. A good deal of fnow ftill lay on many of them; and the parts of the continent, which fhewed themfelves between the inncrmoft iflands, were quite covered with it. At four in the afternoon, we had paffed all the iflands that lay to the Southward of us ; the Southernmoft, at this time, bearing South 30 Eaft, and the Wefternmoft point of land now in fight, South 820 Weft. For this point we fleered, and paffed between it and two or three elevated rocks that lie about a league to the Eaft of it. Some time after we had got through this channel, in which we found forty fathoms water, the Difcovery, now two miles aftern, fired three guns, and brought to, and made the fignal to fpeak with us. This alarmed me not a little ; and as no apparent danger had been remarked in the paffage through the channel, it was apprehended that fome accident, fuch as fpringing a leak, muft have happened. A boat was immediately fent to her; and in a fhort time returned with Captain Clerke. I now learned from him, that fome natives, in three it four canoes, who had been following the fhip for fome time, at length got under his ftern. One One of them then made many figns, taking off his cap, and bowing, after the manner of Europeans. A rope being handed down from the (hip, to this he fattened a fmall thin wooden cafe or box ; and having delivered this fafe, and fpoken fomething, and made fome more figns, the canoes dropped ailcrn, and left the Difcovery. No one on board her had any fufpicion that the box contained any thing till after the departure of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, and a piece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which fomething was written in the Ruffian language, as was fuppofed. The date 1778 was prefixed to it j and, in the body of the written note, there was a reference to the year 1776. Not learned enough to decypher the alphabet of the writer, his numerals marked fufficiently that others had preceded us in vifiting this dreary part of the globe, who were united to us by other ties befides thofe of our common nature; and the hopes of foon meeting with fome of the Ruffian traders, could not but give a fenfible fatisfaction to thofe who had, for fuch a length of time, been converfant with the favages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the continent of North America. Captain Clerke was, at firft, of opinion, that fome Ruffians had been fhipwrccked here; and that thefe unfortunate perfons, feeing our fliips pafs, had taken this method to inform us of their fituation. Imprelled with humane fentiments, on fuch an occafion, he was defirous of our flopping till they might have time to join us. But no fuch idea occurred to me. It feemed obvious, that if this had been the cafe, it would have been the firft ftep taken by fuch fhipwrccked perfons, in order to fecure to themfclves, and to their companions, the relief they could not but be folicitous about, to fend fome of their body off to the fhips in the canoes. noes. For this reafon, I rather thought that the paper con- tained a note of information, left by fome Ruffian trader, 1-r-—' who had lately been amongft thefe iflands, to be delivered to the next of their countrymen who mould arrive ; and that the natives, feeing our fhips pafs, and fuppofing us to be Ruffians, had rcfolved to bring off the note, thinking ir might induce us to flop. Fully convinced of this, I did not flay to inquire any farther into the matter; but made fail, and ftood away to the Weftward, along the coaft: perhaps I fhould fay along the iflands; for we could not pronounce, with certainty, whether the neareft land, within us, was continent or iflands, If not the latter, the coaft here forms fome tolerably large and deep bays. We continued to run all night with a gentle breeze at North Eaft; and, at two o'clock next morning, fome Saturday *o> breakers were feen within us, at the diftance of two miles. Two hours after, others were feen ahead; and, on our larboard bow, and between us and the land, they were innumerable. We did but juft clear them, by holding a South courfe. Thefe breakers were occafioncd by rocks; fome of which were above water. They extend feven leagues from the land ; and are very dangerous, efpecially in thick weather, to which this coaft feems much fubjecT. At noon, we had juft got on their outfide; and, by obfervation, we were in the latitude of 540 44/, and in the longitude of 1980. The neareft land, being an elevated bluff point, which was called Rock Point, bore North, feven or eight leagues diflant; the Weftcrnmoft part of the main, or what was fuppofed to be the main, bore North 8o° Weft; and a round hill, without, which was found to be an iiland, and was called Halibut-head* bore South 650 Weft, thirteen leagues diftant. On j7?3. On the 21ft at noon, having made but little progrefs, on L—account of faint winds and calms, Halibut-head, wdiich lies in the latitude of 540 27', and in the longitude of 1970, bore North 240 Weft; and the ifland on which it is, and called Halibut Ifland* extended from North by Eaft, to North Weft by Weft, two leagues diftant. This ifland is feven or eight leagues in circuit; and, except the head, the land of it is low and very barren. There arc feveral fmall iflands near it, all of the fame appearance; but there feemed to be a pallagc between them and the main, two or three leagues broad. The rocks and breakers, before mentioned, forced us fo far from the continent, that we had but a diftant view of the coaft between Rock Point and Halibut Ifland. Over this and the adjoining iflands wc could fee the main land covered with fnow; but, particularly, fome hills, whofe elevated tops were feen, towering above the clouds, to .a moft ftupendous height. The moft South Wefterly of thefe hills was difcovered to have a volcano* which continually threw up vaft columns of black fmoke. it Hands not far from the coaft; and in the latitude of 540 4$, and the longitude of 1950 45'. It is alfo remarkable, from its figure, which is a complete cone ; and the volcano is at the very fummit. We feldom faw this (or indeed any other of thefe mountains) wholly clear of clouds. At times, both bale and fummit would be clear; when a narrow cloud, fometimes two or three, one above another, Would embrace the middle, like a girdle ; which, with the column of fmoke, rifing perpendicular to a great height out of its top, and fprcading before the wind into a tail of vail length, made a very piclurefquc appearance. It may be worth remarking, that the wind, at the height to which the fmoke of this 3 volcano volcano reached, moved fometimes in a direction contrary '778. to what it did at fea, even when it blew a frefh gale. \___ In the afternoon, having three hours calm, our people caught upward of a hundred halibuts, fome of which weighed a hundred pounds, and none lefs than twenty pounds. This was a very feafonable refrefhment to us. In the height of our fifhing, which was in thirty-five fathoms water, and three or four miles from the fhore, a fmall canoe, conducted by one man, came to us from the large iiland. On approaching the fhip, he took off his cap, and bowed, as the other had done, who vifited the Difcovery the preceding day. It was evident, that the Ruffians mufl have a communication and traffic with thefe people; not only from their acquired politencfs, but from the note before mentioned. But we had now a frefh proof of it; for our prefent vifiter wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or fluff, under the gut-fhirt or frock of his own country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox fkin, and fome fifhing implements or harpoons; the heads of thefhafts of which, for the length of a foot, or more, were neatly made of bone, as thick as a walking-cane, and carved. He had with him a bladder, full of fomething, whjch we fuppofed to be oil; for he opened it, took a mouthful, and then fattened it again. I lis canoe was of the fame make with thofe we had feen before; but rather fmaller. He ufed the double-bladed paddle, as did alio thole who had vifued the Difcovery. In his fize and features, he exactly refembled thofe wc faw in Prince William's Sound, and in the Great River; but he was quite free from paint of any kind; and had the perforation of his lip made in an oblique direction, without any orna- Vol. II. 3 H ment 1778. merit in it. He did not feem to underfland any of iht uJ!^—1 words commonly ufed by our vifiters in the Sound, when repeated to him. But, perhaps, our faulty pronunciation, rather than his ignorance of the dialect, may be inferred from this. The weather was cloudy and hazy, with, now and then, Monday 22. funfhine, till the afternoon of the 22d, when the wind came round to the South Eafl, and, as ufual, brought thick rainy weather. Before the fog came on, no part of the main land was in fight, except the volcano, and another mountain clofe by it. I continued to fleer Wefl till feven in the evening, when, being apprehenfive of falling in with the land in thick weather, we hauled the wind to the Southward, till Tucfday23. two o'clock next morning, and then bore away again Wefl. We made but little progrefs, having the wind variable, and but little of it, till at laft it fixed in the Weflern board, and at five in the afternoon, having a gleam of funfhine, we faw land bearing North 590 Wefl, appearing in hillocks like iflands. Wednef. 24. At fix in the morning of the 24th, we got a fight of the continent ; and at nine it was feen extending from North Eafl by Eafl, to South Wefl by Wefl, half Wefl; the nearefl part about four leagues diflant. The land to the South Wefl proved to be iflands; the fame that had been fecn the preceding evening. But the other was a continuation of the continent, without any iflands to obflrucl our view of it. In the evening, being about four leagues from the fhore, in forty-two fathoms water, having little or no wind, we had recourfe to our hooks and lines j but only two or three fmall cod were caught. The The next morning we got a breeze Eafterly ; and, what I7?8- was uncommon, with this wind, clear weather; fo that we ^__—* not only faw the volcano, but other mountains, both to the Thlir[day2,t Ealt and Weft of it, and all the coaft of the main land under them, much plainer than at any time before. It extended from North Eaft by North, to North Weft half Weft, where it feemed to terminate. Between this point and the iflands without it, there appeared a large opening, for which I fleered, till we raifed land beyond it. This land, although we did not perceive that it joined the continent, made a paffage through the opening very doubtful. It alfo made it doubtful, whether the land which we faw to the South Weft, was infular or continental; and, if the latter, it was obvious that the opening would be a deep bay or inlet, from which, if once we entered it with an Eafterly wind, it would not be fo eafy to get out. Not caring, therefore, to truft too much to appearances, I fleered to the Southward. Having thus got without all the land in fight, I then fleered Weft, in which direction the iflands lay; for fuch we found this land to be. By eight o'clock we had paffed three of them, all of a good height. More of them were now feen to the Weftward ; the South Wefternmoft part of them bearing Weft North Weft. The weather, in the afternoon, became gloomy, and at length turned to a mill; and the wind blew frefli at Eaft. I therefore, at ten at night, hauled the wind to the Southward till day-break, when we refumed our llriday 2(i courfe to the Weft. Day-light availed us little; for the weather was fo thick, that wc could not fee a hundred yards before us; but as the wind was now moderate, I ventured to run. At half 3h 2 paft paft four, we were alarmed at hearing the found of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving the lead, we found twenty-eight fathoms water ; and the next call, twenty-five. I immediately brought the fhip to, with her head to the Northward, and anchored in this laft depth, over a bottom of coarfe fand j calling, the Difcovery, fhe being clofe by us* to anchor alfo. A few hours after, the fog having cleared away a little, it appeared that we had efcaped very imminent danger. We found ourfelves three quarters of a mile from the North Eafl fide of an ifland, which extended from South by Wefl half Wefl, to North by Eafl half Eafl, each extreme about a league diflant. Two elevated rocks, the one bearing South by Eafl, and the other Eafl by South, were about half a league each from us, and about the fame diflance from each other. There were feveral breakers about them; and yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the fliips through^ between thefe rocks, which I fhould not have ventured in a clear day, and to fuch an anchoring-place, that I could not have chofen a better. Finding ourfelves fo near land, I fent a boat to examine what it produced. In the afternoon fhe returned; and the officer, who commanded her, reported, that it produced fome tolerably good grafs, and feveral other fmall plants; one of which was like purflain, and cat very well, either in foups, or as a fallad. There was no appearance of fhrubs or trees ; but on the beach were a few pieces of drift-wood. It was judged to be low-water between ten and eleven o'clock; and we found, where we lay at anchor, that the flood-tide came from the Eafl or South Eafl. In Ih the night, the wind blew frefh at South; but was more moderate toward the morning, and the fog partly dif-perfed. Having weighed at feven o'clock, wc fleered to the Northward, between the ifland under which we had anchored, and another fmall one near it. The channel is not above a mile broad; and before we were through it, the wind failed, and we were obliged to anchor in thirty-four fatnoms water. We had now land in every direction. That to the South, extended to the South Wefl, in a ridge of mountains; but our fight could not determine whether it compofed one or more iflands. We afterward found it to be only one ifland, and known by the name of OonaUiJJjka. Between it, and the land to the North, which had the appearance of being a group of iflands, there feemed to be a channel, in the direction of North Wefl by North. On a point, which bore Wefl from the fhip, three quarters of a mile diflant, wTere feveral natives, and their habitations. To this place we faw them tow in two whales, which we fuppofed they had juft killed. A few of them, now and then, came off to the fliips, and bartered a few trifling things with our people ; but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they rather feemed fhy; and yet, we could judge that they were no ftrangers to veffels, in fome degree, like ours. They behaved with a degree of politenefs uncommon to lavage tribes. At one o'clock in the afternoon, having a light breeze at North En ft, and the tide of flood in our favour, we weighed, and fleered for the channel above mentioned,-in hopes, after we were through, of finding the land trend awa the next morning, the weather clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a fmall breeze at Eaft, fleered North; our foundings being from twenty-eight to twenty-five fathoms After running nine leagues upon this courfe, the wind returned back to the North, which obliged us to fteer more Wefterly. * The The weather continued, for the moft part, foggy, till to- 1778* ward noon on the 28th, when we had a few hours clear '-*—-f fun-fhine ; during which we made feveral lunar obferva- Tuerdayz8' tions. The mean remit of them, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 59*55', gave 1900 6' longitude j and the time-keeper gave i8g° S9', The variation of the compafs was 18° 40' Eaft. Continuing our Wefterly courfe, the water having now deepened to thirty-fix fathoms, at four o'clock next morning, we difcovered land, bearing North Weft by Wednef. a> Weft, fix leagues diftant. We ftood toward it till half paft ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water ; being, at this time, a league from the land, which bore North North Weft. It was the South Eaft extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of confiderable height; on which account it was called Point Upright* and lies in the latitude of 6o° 17', and in the longitude of 1B70 30'. More land was feen to the Weftward of the Point; and, at a clear interval, we faw another elevated portion of land, in the direction of Weft by South; and this feemed to be entirely feparated from the other. Here we met with an incredible number of birds, all as the awk kind before defcribed. We had bafHing light winds all the afternoon, fo that we made but little progrefs; and the weather was not clear enougli to enable us to determine the extent of the land before us. We fuppofed it to be one of the many iflands laid down by Mr Stshlin in his map of the New Northern Archipelago; and we expected every moment to fee more of them. At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore Thurfdayp, North Weft by North, fix leagues diftant. About this time, a light breeze fpringing up at North North Weft, we ftood to the North Eaft till four o'clock next morning, when the wind 1778. wind veering to the Eaft ward, we tacked, and ftood to the July, 0 «-u-' North Weft. Soon after the wind came to South Eaft ; and we fleered North Eaft by North; which courfe we continued, with foundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, Austin, tx\\ ncxt (\ay at noon. At this time wc were in the latitude Saturday I• of 6o° 58', and in the longitude of 191°. The wind now veering to North Eaft, I firft made a ftretch of ten leagues to the North Weft; and then, feeing no land in that direction, 1 ftood back to the Eaftward about fifteen leagues, and met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The foundings were from twenty-two to nineteen fathoms. Variable, light winds, with fliowers of rain, prevailed all .Sunday 2. the 2d ; but fixing in the South Eaft quarter, in the morning Monday 3. of the 3d, wc refumed our courfe to the Northward. At noon we were, by obfervation, in the latitude of 620 34', our longitude was 1920; and our depth of water fixteen fathoms. Mr. Anderfon, my furgeon, who had been lingering under a confumption for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this afternoon. He was a fenfible young man, an agreeable companion, well fkilled in his own profeflion ; and had acquired confiderable knowledge in other branches of fcience. The reader of this Journal will have obferved how ufeful an afliftant I had found him in the courfe of the voyage ; and had it pleafed God to have fpared his life, the Public, I make no doubt, might have received from him fuch communications, on various parts of the natural hiftory of the feveral places we vifited, as would have abundantly fhewn, that he was not unworthy of this commendation *. Soon after he had breathed his laft, land * Mr. Andcrfon's Journal feems to have been difcontinued for about two months before his death j the laft date in his MSS. being of the 3d of June. was was feen to the Weftward, twelve leagues diftant. It was }Tf%* . Auguft, fuppofed to be an ifland j and, to perpetuate the memory of v- »r -the deceafed, for whom I had a very great regard, I named it Anderfons Jjland. The next day, I removed Mr. Law, the furgeon of the Difcovery, into the Refolution, and appointed Mr. Samuel, the Surgeon's firft mate of the Refolution, to be Surgeon of the Difcovery. On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was feen, ex- Tuefday 4. tending from North North Eaft to North Weft. We ftood on toward it till four o'clock, when, being four or five miles from it, we tacked ; and, foon after, the wind falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a fandy bottom; being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckon- • ing, in the latitude of 64.0 27', and in the longitude of J94.0 j 8'. At intervals, we could fee the coaft extending from Eaft to North Weft, and a pretty high ifland, bearing Weft by North, three leagues diftant. The land before us, which we fuppofed to be the continent of America, appeared low next the fea; but, inland, it fwelled into hills, which rife, one behind another, to a confiderable height. It had a greenifh hue, but feemed defti-tute of wood, and free from fnow. While we lay at anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the Eaft, and fet to the Weft, till between ten and eleven o'clock. From that time, till two the next morning, the flrcam fet to the Eaftward, and the water fell three feet. The flood ran both ftronger and longer than the ebb ; from which I concluded, that, befides the tide, there was a Wefterly current. At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at South wednef. 5. Weft, we ran down, and anchored between the ifland and the continent, in feven fathoms water. Soon after, I landed Vol. II. 3 L upon 1778. upon the ifland, accompanied by Mr. King and fome others of the officers. I hoped to have had from it a view of the coaft and fea to the Weftward ;. but tire fog was fo thick in that direction, that the profpecl was not more extenfive than from the fhip. The coaft of the continent feemed to take a turn to the Northward, at a low point named Point Rodney y which bore from the ifland North Weft half Weft, three or four leagues diftant; but the high land, which took a more Northerly direction, was feen a great way farther. This iiland, which was named Sledge Ifland* and lies in the latitude of 64° 30', and in the longitude of 1930 57', is about four leagues in circuit. The furface of the ground is compofed chiefly of large loofe ftones, that are, in many places, covered with mofs and other vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different forts, and moft of them in flower. But I faw neither fhrub nor tree, either upon the ifland, or on the continent. On a fmall low fpor, near the beach where wc landed, was a good deal of wild purflain, peafe, long-wort, &c; fome of which we took on board for the pot. We faw one fox a few plovers, and fome other fmall birds; and we met with fome decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately been on the ifland; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently vifit it for fome purpofe or other, as there was a beaten path from the one end to the other. We found, a little way from the fhore where we landed, a fledge, which occafioned this name being given to the ifland. It feemed to be fuch a one as the Ruffians in Kamtfchatka make ufe of to convey goods from place to place, over the ice or fnow. It was ten feet long, twenty inches broad; and had a kind of rail-work on each fide, and was fhod with bone. The conftrucTion of it was admirable, and all the parts neatly put together; fome with with wooden pins, but moftly with thongs or lafhings of J??|k whale-bone, which made me think it was entirely the \. -t— workmanfhip of the natives. At three o'clock, the next morning, we weighed, and Thurfdayfi, proceeded to the North Weftward, with a light Southerly breeze. We had an opportunity to obferve the fun's meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get altitude, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude by the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal, we advanced but flowly; and, at eight in the evening, finding the fliips fettle faft toward the land into fhoal water, I anchored in feven fathoms, about two leagues from the coaft. Sledge Ifland bore South, 51° Eaft, ten leagues diftant ■> and was feen over the South point of the main land. Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been mifty, clearing up, we faw high land extending from North, 40° Eaft, to North, 300 Weft, apparently disjoined from the coaft, under which we were at anchor, which feemed to trend away North Eaft. At the fame time, an ifland was feen bearing North 8i° Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant. It appeared to have no great extent, and was named Kingh Ijland. We rode here till eight o'clock, next morning, when we weighed, and ftood to the North Friday?. Weft. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got fight of the North Weft land, extending from North by Weft, to North Weft by North, diftant about three leagues. We fpent the night making fhort boards, the weather being mifty and rainy, with little wind ; and, between four and five of the morning of the 8th, we had again a fight Saturdays, of the North Weft land; and, foon after, on account of a calm, and a current driving us toward the fhore, we found 3 E 2 it . it neceffary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, about two miles from the coaft. Over the Weflern extreme is an elevated peaked hill, iituated in latitude 650 36', and in longitude 1920 i8'. A breeze at North Eaft fpringing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and flood to the South Eaft, in hopes of finding a paifage between the coaft on which we had anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this North Weft land. But we foon got into feven fathoms water, and difcovered low land connecting the two coafts, and the high land behind it. Being now fatisfied that the whole was a continued coaft, I tacked, and ftood away for its North Weft part, and came to an anchor under it in feventeen fathoms water. The weather, at this time, was very thick with rain; but, at Sunday 9. four next morning, it cleared up, fo that we could fee the land about us. A high fteep rock or ifland bore Weft by South; another ifland to the North of it, and much larger, hore Weft by North; the peaked hill above mentioned, South Eaft by Eaft; and the point under it, South, 32* Eaft. Under this hill lies fome low land, ftretching out toward the North Weft, the extreme point of which, bore North Eaft by Eaft, about three miles diftant. Over, and beyond it, fome high land was feen, fuppofed to be a continuation of the continent. This point of land, which I named Cape Prince of Wales* is the more remarkable, by being the Weflern extremity of all America hitherto known. It is fituated in the latitude of 650 46', and in the longitude of 191*45'. The obfervations by which both were determined, though made in fight of it, were liable to fome fmall error, on account of the hazinefs of the weather. We thought we faw fome fome people upon the coaft; and probably we were not *77»j miftaken, as fome elevations, like flages, and others like huts, were feen at the fame place. We faw the fame things on the continent within Sledge Ifland, and on fome other part's of the Coaft. It was calm till eight o'clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at North fpringing up, we weighed. But we had fcarcely got our fails fet, when it began to blow and rain very hard, with mifty weather. The wind and current, being in contrary directions, raifed fuch a fea, that it frequently broke into the fhip. We had a few minutes funlhine at noon; and from the obfervation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned latitude. Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little effect., I bore up for the ifland we had feen to the Weftward, propofing to come to an anchor under it till the gale fhould ceafe. But on getting to this land, we found it compofed of two fmall iflands, each not above three or four leagues in circuit; and confequently they could afford us little fhelter. ' Inftead of anchoring, therefore, we continued to flretch to the Weftward; and, at eight o'clock, land was feen in that direction, extending from North North Weft, to Weft by South, the neareft part fix leagues diftant. I ftood on till ten, and then made a board to the Eaftward, in order to fpend the night. At day-break in the morning of the ioth, we refumed Monday io, our courfe to the Weft for the land we had feen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes after feven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 18c/ 24', it extended from South, 720 Weft, to North, 41* Eaft. Between the South Weft extreme, and a point which bore Weft, two leagues dif- 2 tant, tant, the fhore forms a large bay, in which we anchored at ten o'clock in the forenoon, about two miles from the North lhore, in ten fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom. The South point of the bay bore South, 58* Weft j the North point North, 43° Eaft; the bottom of the bay North, 6o° Weft, two or three leagues diftant; and the two iflands we had paffed the preceding day, North, 72* Eaft, diftant fourteen leagues. C H A P. CHAP. IX. Behaviour of the Natives* the Tfchutjhi* on feeing the Ships* —Interview with fome of them.—Their Weapons.— Perfo?ts.—Ornaments.—Clothing.—Winter and Summer Habitations.—The Ships crofs the Strait* to the Coafl of America.—Progrefs Northward.—Cape Mul-grave.—Appearance of Fields of Ice,—Situation of Icy Cape.—The Sea blocked up with Ice.—Sea-horfes killed*, and ufed as Provifions.—Thefe Animals defcribed.—Di-menflons of one of them.—Cape Lifbume.—Fruitlefs At-. tempts to get through the Ice> at a Diflance from the Coafl.—Obfervations on the Formation of this Ice.— Arrival on the Coafl of Afla.—Cape North.—The Pro-fecution of the Voyage deferred to the enfuing Year. AS we were (landing into this bay, we perceived on the \77z. North fhore a village, and fome people, whom the Augu!!'_j fight of the fliips feemed to have thrown into confufion, or Mondax I0* fear. We could plainly fee perfons running up the country with burdens upon their backs. At thefe habitations I propofed to land; and, accordingly, went with three armed boats, accompanied by fome of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each armed with a fpontoon, a bow, and arrows, flood drawn up on a rifing ground clofe by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down toward the fhore, and were fo polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not i infpire ■??•: infpire them with fuffkient confidence to wait for our land- -Auguth * i -v- ing; for the moment we put the boats afhore, they retired. I followed them alone, without any thing in my hand; and by figns and geftures prevailed on them to flop, and to> receive fome trifling prefents. In return for thefe, they gave me two fox-fkins, and a couple of fea-horfe teeth. I cannot fay whether they or I made the firfl prefent; for it appeared to me, that they had brought down with them thefe things for this very purpofe; and that they would have given them to me, even though I had made no return. They feemed very fearful and cautious ; cxprefling their defire, by figns, that no more of our people fhould be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the fhoul-der of one of them, he flarted back feveral paces. In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward; always in the attitude of being ready to make ufe of their fpears; while thofe on the rifing ground flood ready to fupport them with their arrows. Infenfibly, myfelf, and two or three of my companions, got in amongfl them. A few beads distributed to thofe about us, foon created a kind of confidence; fo that they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined us ; and, by degrees, a fort of traffic between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us fome of their clothing, and a few arrows. But nothing that wc had to offer could induce them to part with a fpear, or a bow. Thefe they held in conflant readinefs, never once quitting them, except at one time, when four or five perfons laid theirs down, while they gave us a fong and a dance. And even then, they placed them in fuch a manner, that they could lay hold of them in an inflant; and, for their fecurity, they defired us to fit down. The The arrows were pointed either with bone or Hone ; but 1778. very few of them had barbs; and fome had a round ^—j blunt point. What ufe thefe may be applied to, I cannot fay; unlefs it be to kill fmail animals, without damaging the fkin. The bows were fuch as we had feen on the American coafl, and like thofe ufed by the Efquimaux. The fpears, or fpontoons, were of iron or fleel, and of European or Afiatic workmanfhip; in which no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving, and inlayings of brafs, and of a white metal. Thofe who flood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the fpear flung over their right moulder by a leathern flrap. A leathern quiver, flung over their left moulder, contained arrows; and fome of thefe quivers were extremely beautiful; being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments. Several other things, and, in particular, their clothing, fhewed that they were pofreffed of a degree of ingenuity, far furpafling what one could expect to find amongfl fo Northern a people. Ah the Americans we had feen, fince our arrival on that coafl, were rather low of flature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we now wTere amongft, far from refembling them, had long vifages, and were flout and well made. In fhort, they appeared to be a quite different nation. We faw neither women, nor children, of cither fcx; nor any aged, except one man, who was bald-headed; and he was the only one who carried no arms. The others feemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark acrofs his face, which I did not fee in any others. All of them had their ears bored ; and fome had glafs beads hanging to them. Thefe were the only fixed ornaments we Vol. II. 3 M faw ug7ft *"aw a^out tnem» f°r tneY wear none to the lips. This is ~v—' another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had lately feen. Their clothing confifled of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the fkins of deer, dogs, feals, &c. and ex* tremely well dreffed; fome with the hair or fur on; but others without it. The caps were made to fit the head very clofe; and befides thefe caps, which mofl of them wore, we got from them fome hoods, made of fkins of dogs, that were large enough to cover both head and fhoulders. Their hair feemed to be black ; but their heads were either fhav-ed, or the hair cut clofe off; and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got from us, knives and tobacco were what they valued mofl. We found the village compofed both of their fummer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which is funk a little below the furface of the earth. One of them, which I examined, was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or more high. The framing was compofed of wood, and the ribs of whales, difpofed in a judicious manner, and bound together with fmaller materials of the fame fort. Over this framing is laid a covering of flrong coarfe grafs ; and that again is covered with earth; fo that, on the outfide, the houfe looks like a little hillock, fupported by a wall of flone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two fides, and one end. At the other end, the earth is raifed floping, to walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which 1 faw nothing but water. And at the end of each houfe houfe was a vaulted room, which I rook to be a llorc-room. Thefe flore-rooms communicated with the houfe, by a dark paffage j and with the open air, by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon; but they cannot be faid to be wholly under ground; for one end reached to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was built up with ftone. Over it flood a kind of fentry-box, or tower, compofed of the large bones of large fifh. The fummer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a point at the top. The framing was of flight poles, and bones, covered with the fkins of fea-animals. I examined the infide of one. There was a fire-place, juft within the door, where lay a few wooden veffels, all very dirty. Their bed-places were clofe to the fide, and took up about half the circuit. Some privacy feemed to be obferved; for there were feveral partitions made with fkins. The bed and bedding were of deer-fkins; and mofl of them were dry -and clean. About the habitations were erected feveral flages, ten or twelve feet high; fuch as we had obferved on fome parts of the American coafl. They were wholly compofed of bones; and feemed intended for drying their fifh and fkins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of which they had a great many. Thefe dogs are of the fox kind, rather large, and of different colours, with long foft hair like wool. They are, probably, ufed in drawing their fledges in winter. For fledges they have, as I faw a good many laid up in one of the winter huts. It is alfo not improbable, that dogs may conflitute a part of their food. Several lay dead, that had been killed that morning. 3 M 2 The t52 AVOYAGETO i.77«. The canoes of thefe people are of the fame fort with u—thofe of the Northern Americans; fome, both of the large and of the fmall ones, being feen lying in a creek under the village. By the large fifh-bones, and of other fea-animals, it appeared that the fea fupplied them with the greateft part of their fubfiftence. The country appeared to be exceedingly barren ; yielding neither tree nor fhrub, that we could fee. At fome diftance Weftward, we obferved a ridge of mountains covered with fnow, that had lately fallen. At firft, we fuppofed this land to be a part of the ifland of Alafchka, laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map, before mentioned. But from the figure of the coaft, the fituation of the oppofite fhore of America, and from the longitude, we foon began to think that it was, more probably, the country of the Tfchutfki, or the Eaftern extremity of Afia, explored by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without farther examination, I muft have pronounced Mr. Stcchlin's map, and his account of the new Northern Archipelago, to be either exceedingly erroneous, even in latitude, or elfe to be a mere fiction ; a judgment which I had no right to pafs, upon a publication fo refpectably vouched, without producing the clear eft proofs. After a flay of between two and three hours, with thefe people, we returned to our fhips j and, foon after, the wind veering to the South, we weighed anchor, ftood out of the bay, and fleered to the North Eaft, between the coaft and the Tuefdayn. two illands. The next day, at noon, the former extended from South 8o° Weft, to North 84VWeft; the latter bore South 400 Weft; and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore South 360 Eaft ; with land extending from ic as as far as South 750 Eaft. The latitude of the fhip was 66° 5^; 1778. the longitude 1910 19'; our depth of water twenty-eight .'"5- \j fathoms ; and our pofition nearly in the middle of the channel between the two coafts, each being feven leagues diftant. From this ftation we fleered Eaft, in order to get nearer the American coaft. In this courfe the water ihoaled gradually, and there being little wind, and all our endeavours to increafe our depth failing, I was obliged at laft to drop anchor in fix fathoms ; the only remedy we had left to prevent the fliips driving into lefs. The neareft part of the Weft-cm land bore Weft, twelve leagues diftant; the peaked hill over Cape Prince of Wales, South i6° Weft; and the North-ernmoft part of the American continent in fight, Eaft South Eaft, the neareft part about four leagues diftant. After we had anchored, I fent a boat to found, and the water was found to fhoal gradually toward the land. While we lay at anchor, which was from fix to nine in the evening, we found little or no current; nor could we perceive that the water either rofe or fell. A breeze of wind fpringing up at North, we weighed, and ftood to the Weftward, which courfe foon brought us into deep water; and, during the 12th, we plied to the North, Wednef. both coafts being in fight; but we kept neareft to that of America. At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze fpringing Thurfday^. up at South, 1 fleered North Eaft by North, till four o'clock next morning, when, feeing no land, we directed our courfe Eaft by North; and between nine and ten, land, fuppofed Fjiday *M to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended from Eaft by South to Eaft by North ; and, foon after, we faw 177?.. faw more land, bearing North by Eaft. Coming pretty fud-v ."f." \ denly into thirteen fathoms water, at two in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we flood in again for the land; which was feen, foon after, extending from North to South Eaft; the neareft part three or four leagues diflant. The coafl here forms a point, named Point Midgrave* which lies in the latitude of 670 45'; and in the longitude of 194° 51'. The land appeared very low next the fea ; but, a little back, it rifes into hills of a moderate height. The whole was free from fnow ; and, to appearance, deititute of wood. I now tacked, and bore away North Weft by Wefl; but, foon after, thick weather with rain coming on, and the wind increafing, I hauled more to the Wefl. Saturday 15. Next morning, at two o'clock, the wind veered to South Wefl by South, and blew a flrong gale, which abated at noon ; and the fun mining out, we found ourfelves, by obfervation, in the latitude of 68° 18'. I now fleered North Sunday 16. Eafl, till fix o'clock the next morning, when I fleered two points more Eafterly. In this run we met with feveral fea-horfes, and flights of birds ; fome like fand-larks, and others no bigger than hedge-fparrows. Some fhags were alfo feen j fo that we judged ourfelves to be not far from land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not expect to fee any4 and, as the wind blew flrong, it was not prudent to continue a courfe which was mofl likely to bring us to it. From the noon of this day, to fix o'clock in the morning of the Monday 17. following, I fleered Eafl by North ; which courfe brought us into fixteen fathoms water. I now fleered North Eafl by Eafl, thinking, by this courfe, to deepen our Water. But, in the fpace of fix leagues, it fhoalcd to eleven fathoms ; which made me think it proper to haul clofe to the wind, that now blew at Wefl, Toward noon, both fun and moon 6 were * were feen clearly at intervals, and we got fome flying ob- "778. fervations for the longitude ; which, reduced to noon, when vJ!^L* the latitude was 70° 33', gave 1970 41'. The time-keeper, for the fame time, gave 1.980; and the variation was 350 1' 22." Eaft. We had, afterward, reafon to believe, that the obferved longitude was within a very few miles of the truth. Some time before noon, we perceived a brightnefs in the Northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. It was little noticed, from a fup-pofuion that it was improbable we fhould meet with ice fo foon. And yet, the fharpnefs of the air, and gloomincfs of the weather, for two or three days paft, feemed to indicate fome fudden change. About an hour after, the fight of a large field of ice, left us no longer in doubt about the caufe of the brightnefs of the horizon. At half paft two, we tacked, clofe to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the latitude of 700 41'; not being able to fland on any farther. For the ice was quite impenetrable, and extended from Weft by South, to Eaft by North, as far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of fea-horfes; fome in the water; but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of hoifting out the boats to kill fome ; but the wind tfrefhen-ing, I gave up the defign ; and continued to ply to the Southward, or rather to the Weftward ; for the wind came from that quarter. We gained nothing; for, on the 18th at noon, our lati- w*k*r** tudc was 700 44'; and we were near five leagues farther to the Eaftward. We were, at this time, clofe to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a wall; and feemed to be ten or twelve feet high at leaft. But, farther North, it appeared. much 177\ much higher. Its furface was extremely rugged ; and, here v—-1—~> and there, we law upon it pools of water. We now ftood to the Southward ; and, after running fix leagues, fhoaled the water to feven fathoms; but it foon deepened to nine fathoms. At this time, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we faw land extending from South to South Eaft by Eaft, about three or four miles diftant. The Eaftern extreme forms a point, which was much incumbered with ice ; for which reafon it obtained the name of Icy Cape. Its latitude is 700 29', and its longitude 198° 20'. The other extreme of the land was loft in the horizon ; fo that there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of the American continent. The Difcovery being about a mile aftern, and to leeward, found lefs water than we did ; and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack alfo, to prevent feparation. Our fituation was now more and more critical. We were in fhoal water, upon a Ice fhore ; and the main body of the ice to windward, driving down upon us. It was evident, that, if we remained much longer between it and the land, it would force us afhore ; unlefs it fhould happen to take the ground before us. It feemed nearly to join the land to leeward ; and the only direction that was open, was to the South Weft. After making a fhort board to the Northward, I made the fignal for the Difcovery to tack, and tacked myfelf at the fame time. The wind proved rather favourable ; fo that we lay up South Weft, and South Weft by Weft. Wednef. k;. At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to Weft, I tacked to the Northward; and, at noon, the latitude was 700 6', and the longitude 1960 42'. In this fituation, we had a good deal of drift-ice about us; and the main main ice was about two leagues to the North. At half paft }77*- ° 1 Augufl. one, we got in with the edge of it. It was not fo com- v—»—* pact as that which wc had feento'thc Northward; but it was too clofe, and in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the fhips through it. On the ice lay a prodigious number of fea-horfcs ; and, as we were in want of frelh provifions, the boats from each fhip were fent to get fome. 13y feven o'clock in the evening, we had received, on board the Refolution, nine of thefe animals; which, till now, we had fuppofed to be fea-cows ; fo that we were not a little dif-appointed, efpecially fome of the feamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been fcafting their eyes for fome days paft. Nor would they have been difappointed now, nor have known the difference, if we had not happened to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, and declared what animals thefe were, and that no one ever eat of them. But, notwithftanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lafted; and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our fait meat. The fat, at firft, is as fweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows rancid, unlefs it be falted; in which ftate, it will keep much longer. The lean flefh is coarfe, black, and has rather a flrong tafte ; and the heart is nearly as well tailed as that of a bullock. The fat, when melted, yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps ; and their hides, which are very thick, were very ufeful about our rigging. The teeth, or tufks, of moft of them were, at this time, very fmall; even fome of the largeft and oldeft of thefe animals, had them not exceeding fix inches in length. From this we concluded, that they had lately fhed their old teeth. Vol. II. 3 N They They lie, in herds of many hundreds, upon the ice; huddling one over the other like fwine; and roar or bray very loud j fo that, in the night, or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the ice, before we could fee it. We never found the whole herd afleep; fome being always upon the watch. Thefe, on the approach of the boat, would wake thofe next to them; and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole herd would be awake prefently. But they were feldomin a hurry to get away, till after they had been once fired at. Then they would tumble one over the other, into the fea, in the utmoft confufion* And, if we did not, at the firft difcharge, kill thofe we fired at, we generally loft them, though mortally wounded* They did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal fome authors have defcribed; not even when attacked. They are rather more fo, to appearance, than in reality. Vaft numbers of them would follow, and come clofe up to the boats. But the flafhof a mufquet in the pan, or even the bare pointing of one at them, would fend them down in an inftant. The female will defend the young one to the very laft, and at the expence of her own life, whether in the water, or upon the ice. Nor will the young one quit the dam* though fhe be dead; fo that, if you kill one, you are fure of the other. The dam, when in the water, holds the young one between her fore-fins. Mr. Pennant, in his Synopfis ^uadr. p. 355*, has given a very good defcription of this animal under the name of Arctic Walrus; but 1 have no where feen a good drawing * Mr. Pennant, fince Captain Cook wrote this, has defcribed this animal in a new , work, which'hc.calls Arilk Zoology* now ready for publication. We have been favoured with his obliging communications on this, and other particulars \ and, therefore, refer the reader to the Affile Zoology* N° 72, Of of one. Why they fhould be called fea-horfes, is hard to ?r?^ J % Auguft. fay; unlefs the word be a corruption of the Ruffian name Morfe\ for they have not the leaft refemblance of a horfe. This is, without doubt, the fame animal that is found in the Gulph of St. Lawrence, and there called Sea-cow. It is certainly more like a cow than a horfe; but this likenefs confifts in nothing but the fnout. In fhort, it is an animal like a feal; but incomparably larger. The dimen-fions and weight of one, which was none of the largeft, were as follows: Feet. Inches. Length from the fnout to the tail - 9 4 Length of the neck, from the fnout to the j t fhoulder-bone - J Height of the moulder - - 5 o Length of the fins \ f °re. 2 * & (Hind - 2 6 Breadth of the fins 5f^re, £Hind - - -20 c Breadth - - - 0 5v Snout]^ - (Depth - - - -13 Circumference of the neck clofe to the ears - 2 7 Circumference of the body at the moulder - 710 Circumference near the hind fins - 5 6 From the fnout to the eyes - - 0 7 lb. Weight of the carcafe, without the ) „ head, fkin, or entrails - 3 Head -.....41J Skin - 205 I could not find out what thefe animals feed upon. There was nothing in the maws of thofe we killed. 3 N 2 It 460 AVOYAGETO It is worth obferving, that for fome days before this date, we "had frequently feen flocks of ducks flying to the Southward. They were of two forts, the one much larger than the other. The largefl were of a brown colour ; and, of the fmall fort, either the duck or drake was black and white, and the other brown. Some faid they faw geefe alfo. Does not this indicate that there mufl be land to the North; where thefe birds find inciter, in the proper feafon, to breed, and from whence they were now returning to a warmer climate ? By the time that we had got our fea-horfes on board, we were, in a manner, furrounded with the ice ; and had no way left to clear it, but by Handing to the Southward; Thurfdayao. which was done till three o'clock next morning, with a gentle breeze wefterly ; and, for the moft part, thick, foggy weather. The foundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We then tacked, and ftood to the North till ten o'clock; when the wind veering to the Northward, we directed our courfe to the Weft South Weft and Weft. At two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice; along the edge of which we kept; being partly directed by the roaring of the fea-horfes; for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued failing till near midnight, when we got in amongft the loofe ice, and heard the furge of the fea upon the main ice. The fog being very thick, and the wind Eafterly, I now Friday zu hauled to the Southward; and, at ten o'clock the next morning, the fog clearing away, we faw the continent of America, extending from South by Eaft, to Eaft by South; and at noon, from South Weft half South, to Eaft; the neareft part five leagues diftant. At this time we were in the latitude * of of Go* 32', and in the longitude of 195* 48'; and as the main t778. ... Auguft. ice was at no great diftance from us, it is evident, that it <___„—1 now covered a part of the fea, which, but a few days before, had been clear; and that it extended farther to the South, than where we firft fell in with it. It muft not be under-ftood, that I fuppofed any part of this ice which we had feen, to be fixed ; on the contrary, I am well allured, that the whole was a moveable mafs. Having but little wind, in the afternoon, I fent the Mailer in a boat, to try if there was any current ; but he found none. I continued to fteer in for the American land, until eight o'clock, in order to get a nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour ; but feeing nothing like one, I ftood again to the North, with a light breeze Wefterly. At this time, the coaft extended from South Weft to Eaft; the neareft part four or five leagues diftant. The Southern extreme feemed to form a point, which was named Cape Lijburne. It lies in the latitude of 69° 5', and in the longitude of 191.* 42', and appeared to be pretty high land, even down to the fea. But there may be low land under it, which we might not fee, being not lefs than ten leagues from it. Every where elfe, as we advanced Northward, we had found a low coaft, from which the land rifes to a middle height. The coaft now before us was without fnow, except in one or two places; and had a grcenifh hue. But we could not perceive any wood upon it. On the 22d, the wind was Southerly, and the weather Saturday 2*. moftly foggy, with fome intervals of funfhine. At eight in the evening it fell calm, which continued till midnight, when we heard the furge of the fea againft the ice, and had feveral W8; feveral loofe pieces about us. A light breeze now forunff Auguft. 1 0 r »-up at North Eaft; and, as the fog was very thick, I fleered to the Southward, to clear the ice. At eight o'clock next Sunday 23. morning, the fog difperfed, and I hauled to the Weftward-for finding that I could not get to the North near the coaft, on account of the ice, I refolved to try what could be done at a diftance from it; and as the wind feemed to be fettled at North, I thought it a good opportunity. Monday 24. As wc advanced to the Weft, the water deepened gradually uc,a> 5. ^ twenty-eight fathoms, which was the moft we had. With the Northerly wind the air was raw, fliarp, and cold ; and we had fogs, funfhine, fhowers of fnow and fleet, by turns. Wednef. 26. At ten in the morning of the 26th, we fell in with the ice. At noon, it extended from North Weft to Eaft by North, and appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, by obfervation, in the latitude 690 36', and in the longitude of 1840; fo that it now appeared we had no better profpect of getting to the North here, than nearer the fhore. I continued to Hand to the Weftward, till five in the afternoon, when wc were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high, and very clofe in the North Weft and North Eaft quarters, with a great deal of loofe ice about the edge of the main field. At this time, wc had baffling light winds; but it foon fixed at South, and increafed to a frefli gale, with mowers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and ftretched to the Eaftvvard; this being the only direction in which the fea was clear of ice. luurfdayz;. At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and ftood to the Weft, and at feven in the evening we were clofe in with the edge of the ice, which lay Eaft North Eaft, and Weft Weft South Wert, as far each way as the eye could reach. 1'78- J J Auguft. Having bur little wind, I went with the boats, to examine the date of the ice. I found it confiding of loofe pieces, of various extent, and fo clofe together, that I could hardly enter the outer edge with a boat; and it was as impoflible for the fliips to enter it, as if it had been fo many rocks. I took particular notice, that it was all pure tranfparent ice, except the upper furface, which was a little porous. It appeared to be entirely compofed of frozen fnow, and to have been all formed at fea. For, fetting afide the improbability, or rather impofiibility, of fuch huge mafles floating out of rivers, in which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions of the land were found incorporated, or fixed in it; which muft have unavoidably been the cafe, had it been formed in rivers, either great or fmall. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field, were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five ; and 1 judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under the fur-face of the water. It alfo appeared to me very improbable, that this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone. I fliould fuppofe it rather to have been the production of a great many winters. Nor was it lefs improbable, according to my judgment, that the little that remained of the fummer, could deftroy the tenth part of what now fubfifted of this mafs ; for the fun had already exerted upon it the full influence of his rays. Indeed I am of opinion, that the fun contributes very little toward reducing thefe great maffes. For although that luminary is a confiderable while above the horizon, it feldom fhines out foF more than a few hours at a time; and often is not feen for feveral days in fucceifion. It is the wind, or rather the 2 waves "7-8. waves raifed by the wind, that brings down the bulk of Auguft. rr ■ ■ *-1-' thefe enormous manes, by grinding one piece againli another, and by undermining and wafhing away thofe parts that lie expofed to the furge of the fea. This was evident, from our obferving, that the upper furf ace of many pieces had been partly wafhed away, while the bafe or under part remained firm for feveral fathoms round that which appeared above water, exactly like a fhoal round an elevated rock. We. meafured the depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet; fo that the fhips might have failed over it. If I had not meafured this depth, I would not have believed, that there was a fufficient weight of ice above the furf ace, to have funk the other fo much below it. Thus it may happen, that more ice is deflroyed in one flormy feafon, than is formed in feveral winters, and an end-lefs accumulation is prevented. But that there is always a remaining flore, every one who has been upon the fpot will conclude, and none but clofct-fludying philofophers will difpute. A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats, haflened me aboard, rather fooncr than I could have wifhed, with one fea-horfe to each fhip. We had killed more, but could not wait to bring them with us. The number of thefe animals, on all the ice that we had feen, is almofl incredible. Wc fpent the night Handing off and on, amongll the drift ice; and at nine o'clock the next fridayzp. morning, the fog having partly difperfed, boats from each fhip were fent for fea-horfes. For, by this Lime, our people began to relifh them, and thofe we had procured before .were all confumed. At noon, our latitude was 690 17', our longitude 183*; the variation, by the morning azimuths, « 56'Eaft; and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. l?y*' 1 1 1 • • Auguft. At two o'clock, having got on board as much marine beef 1.. -w— _j as was thought neceffary, and the wind freshening at South South Eaft, we took on board the boats, and ftretched to the South Weft. But not being able to weather the ice upon this tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the Eaft, till eight o'clock, then rcfumcd our courfe to the South Weft, and before midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of the ice. Soon after, the wind fluffed to the North Weft, blowing a ftiff gale, and we ftretched to the South Weft, clofe hauled. 1 In the morning of the 29th, we faw the main ice to the Saturday 29. Northward, and not long after, land bearing South Weft by Weft. Prcfently after this, more land fhewed itfelf, bearing Weft. It fhewed itfelf in two hills like iflands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we approached the land, the depth of water decreafed very faft; fo that at noon, when wc tacked, we had only eight fathoms; being three miles from the coaft, which extended from South, ^o° Eaft, to North, 60* Weft. This laft extreme terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above mentioned. The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain ; but foon after, it cleared ; efpecially to the Southward, Weftward, and Northward. This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coaft ; which, in every refpect, is like the oppofite one of America; that is, low land next the fea, with elevated land farther back. It was perfectly defti-tute of wood, and even fnow; but was, probably, covered with a moffy fubflance, that gave it a brownifh eaft. In the low ground lying between the high land and the fea, was a lake, extending to the South Eaft, farther than we could Vol. II. 3 O fee. 4^6 A VOYAGE.TO -1.778. fcc. As we flood off, the Weflernmofl of the two hills he-—-v—^ fore mentioned came open off the bluff point, in the direction of North Wefl. It had the appearance of being an ifland ; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did not fee it. And if fo, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between them. This point, which is ftcep and rocky, was named Cape North. Its fituation is nearly in the latitude of 68° 56', and in the longitude of 1800 51'. The coafl beyond it mufl take a very Wefterly direction; for we could fee no land to the Northward of it, though the horizon was there pretty clear. Being defirous of feeing more of the coafl to the Weflward, we tackexl again, at two o'clock in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. But finding wc could not, the wind frefhening, a thick fog coming on, with much fnow, and being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the defign I bad formed of plying to the Weflward, and flood off fhore again. The feafon was now fo far advanced, and the time when the frofl is expected to fet in fo near at hand, that I did not think it confident with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a paffage into the Atlantic this year, in any direction; fo little was the profpect of fucceeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out fome place where we might fupply ourfelves with wood and water; and the object uppermort in my thoughts was, how I fhould fpend the winter, fo as to make fome improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the fame time, be in a condition to return to the North, in farther fearch of a paffage, the enfuing fummer. CHAP. ()() mim 11 i hi 111 r 46 O <>7 66 63 WO C H A P. X. Return from Cape Norths along the Coaf of Afa.—Views of the Country.—Burneys If and.—Cape Serdze Kameny the Northern Limit of Beering s Voyage. — Pafs the Eaf Cape of Afia.—Defer ipt ion and Situation of it.— Obfervations on Muller.—The Tfchutfi.—Bay of Saint Lawrence. — Two other Bays, and Habitations of the Natives.—Beering s Gape Tfchukotjkoi.—Beering s Po-ftion of this Coaf accurate.—If and of Saint Lawrence. —Pafs to the America?i Coaft.—Cape Darby.—Bald Head.—Cape Denbigh, on a Peninfula.—Beforough Ifland.—Wood and Water procured,—Vifits from the Natives —7heir Perfons and Habitations.—Produce of of the Country.—Marks that the Peninjula had formerly been fur rounded by the Sea.—Lieutenant Kitifs Re-port —Norton Sound. —Lunar Obfervation there. —-Stczblins Map proved to be erroneous.—Plan of future Operations. FTER having flood off till wc got into eighteen fa- 1778. thorns water, I bore up to the Eafl ward, along the ^AagalL, coafl, which, by this time, it was pretty-certain, could only Saturday 29-be the continent of Afia. As the wind blew frefh, with a very heavy fall of fnow, and a thick mill, it was ncce'flary to proceed with great caution. I therefore brought to, for a few hours in the night, 3 O 2 At 1778« At day-break, on the 30th, we made fail, and fleered fuch Augult. * 0—1 a courfe as I thought would bring us in with the land; Sunday 50. oemg jn a grcat rneafure guided by the lead. For the weather was as thick as ever, and it mowed incclfantly. At ten, we got fight of the coafl;, bearing South Weil, four miles diftant; and prefently after, having fhoaled the water to feven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or fpit, bore South South Well, two or three miles diflant; to the Fafl of which there appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into fome water that we faw over the point. Probably, the lake before mentioned communicates here with the fea. At noon, the mill difperfing for a fhort interval, we had a tolerably good view of the coafl, which extended from South Eafl to North Wefl by Wefl. Some parts appeared higher than others ; but in general it was very low, with high land farther up xhc country. The whole was now covered with fnow, which had lately fallen, quite down to the fea. I continued to range along the coafl, at two leagues diflance, till ten at night, when wc hauled off; but we renamed our Monday 31. courfe next morning, foon after day-break, when we got fight of the coafl again, extending from Wefl to South halt by South. At eight, the Eaflcrn part bore South, and proved to be an ifland ; which at noon bore South Well half South, four or five miles diflant. It is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a fleep, rocky coafl, fituated about three leagues from the main, in the latitude of 6f 45', and diflinguifhed in the chart by the name of Burncy's Ifland. The inland country hereabout is full of hills; fome of which arc of a confiderable height. The land was covered with Tuefday j. with fnow, except a few fpots upon the'fea-coaft, which flill in** continued low, but lefs fo than farther Weftward. For the *_ "f- 1/ two preceding days, the mean height of the mercury in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing point, and often below it; fo that the water, in the veffels upon the deck, was frequently covered with a fheet of ice. I continued to fteer South South Eaft, nearly in the direction of the coaft, till five in the afternoon, when land was feen bearing South, 500 Eaft, which we prcfently found to be a continuation of the coaft, and hauled up for it. Being abreaft of the Eaftern land, at ten at night, and in doubts of weathering it, we tacked, and made a board to the Weft- September, ward, till paft one the next morning, when we ftood again to the Eaft, and found that it was as much as we could do to keep our diftance from the coaft, the wind being exceedingly unfettlcd, varying continually from North to North Eaft. At half an hour paft eight, the Eaftern extreme above mentioned bore South by Eaft, fix or feven miles diftant. At the fame time, a head-land appeared in fight, bearing Eaft by South, half South ; and, foon after, we could trace the whole coaft lying between them, and a fmall ifland at fome diftance from it. The coaft feemed to form feveral rocky points, connected by a low fliore, without the leaft appearance of a harbour. At fome diftance from the fea, the low land appeared to fwell into a number of hills. The higheft of thefe were covered with fnow ; and, in other refpects, the whole country feemed naked. At feven in the evening, two points of land, at fome diftance beyond the Eaftern head, opened off it in the direction of South, 37° Eaft. I was now well af-fured, of what I had believed before, that this was the country 47o AVOYAGETO '77^- country of the Tfchutfki, or the North Eafl coafl of Afia; September. ,11 r — . 1 1 • ^ t . and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this head which Muller fays is called Serdze Kamen, on account of a rock upon it, fhaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr. Muller's knowledge of the geography of thefe parts is very imperfect. There are many elevated rocks upon this Cape, and poflibly fome one or other of them may have the fhape of a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory, with a fleep rocky cliff facing the fea; and lies in the latitude of 6y° 3', and in the longitude of 18S* n'. To the Eaflward of it, the coafl is high and bold; but to the Weflward it is low, and trends North North Wefl, and North Wefl by Well; which is nearly its direction all the way to Cape North. The foundings are every where the fame at the fame diflance from the more, which is alfo the cafe on the oppolitc fhore of America. The greatcil depth we found in ranging along it was twenty-three fathoms. And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the foundings are no bad guide in failing along cither of thefe fhorcs. v/cdnef. z. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 2d, the mofl advanced land to the South Eafl, bore South, 25" Eafl; and from this point of view had the appearance of being an iiland. But the thick mow fhowers, which fuccceded one another pretty fafl, and fettled upon the land, hid great part of the coal! at this time from our fight. Soon after, the fun, whofe face we had not feen for near five days, broke out at the intervals between the fhowers ; and, in fome meafure, freed the coafl from the fog, fo that we had a fight of it, and found the whole to be connected. The wind flill continued at North, the air was cold, and the mercury in the thermometer never rofe above 35*, and was fometimes. as low as 300. At noon the obferved latitude was 66° 37, Cape Views on r/ir Toast .-/'ASIA 'I'd/r K.lincll br/'/l/n/ S!' (list nulr.t VitMtofthe Coast of ASIA when tlw XJS.pxrt of the EAST CAPE be/irsE.S.E. distant3% fa View of the Coast of KAMTS Coast ' K A MT S C EIATKA w/ww- Paratoonka Mount heart JWbWand the North Head of the Entrance into . iWATfKA Bay NNW.-i miles di Cape Serdze Kamen bore North, 52* Wefl:, thirteen leagues diftant; the Southernmoft point of land in fight South, 410 Eaft ; the neareft part of the coaft two leagues diftant; and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms. We had now fair weather and funfhine ; and as we ranged along the coaft, at the diftance of four miles, we faw feveral of the inhabitants, and fome of their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth. In the evening we paffed the Eajlern Cape, or the point above mentioned; from which the coaft changes its direction, and trends South Weft. It is'the fame point of land which we had paffed on the nth of Auguft. They who believed implicitly in Mr. Stachlin's map, then thought it the Eaft point of his ifland Alafchka ; but we had, by this time, fatisfied ourfelves, that it is no other than the Eaftern promontory of Afia 3 and probably the proper Tfcbukotjkoi Nofs, though the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to the South Weft. Though Mr. Muller, in his map of the Ruffian Difcoveries, places the Tfchukotfkoi Nofs nearly in 75°of latitude, and extends it fomewhat to the Eaftward of this Cape, it appears to me, that he had no good authority for fo doing. Indeed his own accounts, or rather DefhnefPs *, of the diftance between the Nofs, and the river Anadir, cannot be reconciled with this very Northerly pofition. But as I hope to vifit thefe parts again, I fhall leave the difcuflion of this point till then. In the mean time, I muft conclude, as Beering did before me, that this is the moft Eaftern point of Afia. * Avec le vent le plus favorable, on peut aller par mcr de cette pointe (des Tfchuktfchis), jufqu'a l'Anadir en trois ibis 24 heures j & par terre lc chemin ne peut guere ctre plus long, Muller, p. 13. 6 It September *c *s a Pemni^u^a °f confiderable height, joined to the conti- v—-» nent by a very low, and, to appearance, narrow neck of land. It fiiews a fleep rocky cliff next the fea ; and off the very point are fome rocks like fpires. It is fituated in the latitude of 66° 6', and in the longitude of 190° 22'; and is diftant, from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coafl, thirteen leagues, in the direction of North, 530 Wefl. The land about this promontory is compofed of hills and vallies. The former terminate at the fea in fleep rocky points, and the latter in low fhores. The hills feemed to be naked rocks ; but the vallies had a greenifh hue, but def-titute of tree or fhrub. After palling the Cape, I fleered South Wefl half Wefl, for the Northern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of laft month. We reached it by eight Thuifday3. o'clock next morning, and faw fome of the inhabitants at the place where I had feen them before, as well as feveral others on the oppofite fide of the bay. None of them, however, attempted to come off to us j which feemed a little extraordinary, as the weather was favourable enough ; and thofe whom we had lately vifited had no reafon, that I know of, to diflike our company. Thefe people mufl be the Tfchntfki j a nation that, at the time Mr. Muller wrote, the Ruffians had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole of their conduct with us, it appears that they have not, as yet, brought them under fubjection; though it is obvious that they mufl have a trade with the Ruffians, either directly, or by means of fome neighbouring nation ; as we cannot othcrwife account for their being in poffef-fion of the fpontoons, in particular, of which we took notice. 5 This This Bay of St. Laurence * is, at Ieafx, five leagues broad 1 at the entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing toward <-2! the bottom, where it appeared to be tolerably well flickered from the fea-winds, provided there be fufficient depth of water for fhips. I did not wait to examine it, although I was very defirous of finding an harbour in thofe parts, to which I might rcfort next fpring. But I wanted one where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here. From the South point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 650 30', the coaft trends Weft by South, for about nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay, or river ; or elfe the land there is fo low that we could not fee it. At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our courfe, we faw what was firft taken for a rock ; but it proved to be a dead whale, which fome natives of the Afiatic coaft had killed, and were towing afhore. They feemed to conceal themfelves behind the fifh to avoid being feen by us. This was unneceffary ; for we purfued our courfe, without taking any notice of them. At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the North Weft, in Frida order to get a nearer view of the inlet feen the preceding day; but the wind, foon after, veering to that direction, I gave up the defign; and, fleering to the Southward along the coaft, paft two bays, each about two leagues deep. The Northernmoft lies before a hill, which is remarkable by being rounder than any other upon the coaft. And there is an ifland lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a fufficient depth for fliips in cither of thefe bays, as we always met with fhoal water, when we edged * Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it on St. Laurence's day, Auguft 10. It is remarkable, that Beering failed paft this very place on the 10th of Auguft 1728 j on which account, the neighbouring ifland was named by him after the fame Saint. Vol. II. 3 P in 7?- in for the fhore. The country here is exceedingly hilly \~—,—^ and naked. In feveral places on the low ground, next the fea, were the dwellings of the natives ; and near all of them were creeled flages of bones, fuch as before defcribed. Thefe may be feen at a great diflance, on account of their whitenefs. At noon the latitude, was 640 38', and the longitude 18*8* 15'; the Southernmofl point of the main in fight bore South, 480 Wefl; and the neareft fhore about three or four lergues diftant. By this time, the wind had veered again to the North, and blew a gentle breeze. The weather was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the coaft, as 1 found that it took a Wefterly direction toward the Gulf of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but fleered to the Southward, in order to get a fight of the Ifland of St. Laurence, difcovered by Beering; which accordingly fhewed itfelf, and, at eight o'clock in the evening, it bore South, 2o°Eaft; by eftimation, eleven leagues diftant. At the fame time, the Southernmofl point of the main land bore South, 83° Weft, diftant twelve leagues. I take this to be the point which Beering calls the Eaft Point of Suchotfki, or Cape Tfcbukotjkoi; a name which he gave it* and with propriety, becaufe it was from this part of the coaft that the natives came off to him, who called themfelvcs of the nation of the Tfchutfki. I make its latitude to be 64° 13', and its longitude 186° 36'. In juftice to the memory of Beering, I muft fay, that he has delineated the coaft very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude of the points better than could.be expected from the methods he had to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr. Muller's account of the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book 5. but from Dr. Campbell's account of it in his> THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 475 his edition of Harris's Collection*, and a map thereto an- e !778- * September, nexed, which is both more circumflantial and accurate than w—v—~j that of Mr. Muller. The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coafl of Afia, the more I was at a lofs to reconcile Mr. Staeh-lin's map of the New Northern Archipelago with my obfervations ; and I had no way to account for the great difference, but by fuppofing, that I had miflaken fome part of what he calls the Ifland of Alafchka for the American continent, and had miffed the channel that feparates them. Admitting even this, there would flill have been a confiderable difference. It was with me a matter of fome confequence, to clear up this point the prefent feafon, that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as thefe Northern ifles are reprefented by him as abounding with wood, I was in hopes, if I fhould find them, of getting a fupply of that article, which we now began to be in great want of on board. With thefe views, I fleered over for the American coafi ; and, at five in the afternoon, the next day, faw knd bear- Saturdays, ing South three quarters Eaft, which wc took to be Arider-fon's Iiland, or fome other land near it, and therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the morn- Sunday 5. ing, we got fight of the American coafl near Sledge Ifland; and at fix, the fame evening, this ifland bore North, 6° Eafl, ten leagues diflant; and the Eaflernmoft land in fight North, 490 Eafl. If any part of what I had fuppofed to be American coafl, could poflibly be the ifland of Alafchka, it was that now before us; and in that cafe, I mufl have miffed the channel between it and the main, by fleering to * Vol. ii. p. 1016, &c» 3 P a the 177s- September. Monday 7. Tuefday 8. Wcdnef. 9. the Weft, inftead of the Eaft, after we firft fell in with it. I was not, therefore, at a lofs where to go, in order to clear up thefe doubts. ■ At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got clofe in with the land, Sledge Ifland bearing North 85* Weft, eight or nine leagues diftant; and the Eaftern, part of the coafl: North 700 Eaft, with high land in the direction of Eaft by North, feemingly at a great diftance beyond the point. At this time we faw a light afhore ; and two canoes, filled with people, coming off toward us. I brought to, that they might have time to come up. But it was to no purpofe ; for, refilling all the figns of friendfhip we could exhibit, they kept at the diftance of a quarter of a mile ; fo that we left them, and purfued our courfe along the coaft. At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water fhoal pretty fail, we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and then renamed our courfe along the coaft, which we found to trend Eaft, and Eaft half South. At feven in the evening, we were abreaft of a point, lying in the latitude of 640 21', and in the longitude of 197*; beyond which the coaft takes a more Northerly direction. At eight, this point, which obtained the name of Cape Darby, bore South 62° Weft; the Northernmoft land in fight, North 3 20 Eaft; and the neareft fhore three miles diftant. In this fituation we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. Next morning, at day-break, we weighed, and failed along the coaft. Two iflands, as wc fuppofed them to be, were at that time feen; the one bearing South 70* Eaft, and the other Eaft. Soon after, we found ourfelves upon a coaft covered with wood 5 an agreeable fight, to which, of late, 4 we we had not been accuftomcd. As we advanced to the North, _ XT**: September. we raifed land in the direction of North Eaft half North ; ■-<~—* which proved to be a continuation of the coaft we were upon. We alfo faw high land oven the iflands, fcemingly at a good diftance beyond them. This was thought to be the continent, and the other land the Ifland of Alafchka. But it was already doubtful, whether we mould find a paffage between them ; for the water fhoaled infenfibly as we advanced farther to the North. In this fituation, two boats were fent to found before the fliips; and I ordered the Difcovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid channel, between the coaft on our larboard, and the Northcrnmoft ifland on our ftarboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon; when, having paffed the ifland, we had not more than three fathoms and an half of water; and the Refolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the bottom. More water was not to be found in any part of the channel; for, with the mips and boats, we had tried it from fide to fide. I therefore thought it high time to return; efpecially as the wind was in fuch a quarter, that we muft ply back. But what I dreaded moft was the wind increafing, and raifing the fea into waves, fo as to put the fliips in danger of ftrik-ing. At this time, a head-land on the Weft fhore, which is diftinguifhed by the name of Bald Head, bore North by Weft, one league diftant. The coaft beyond it extended as far as North Eaft by North, where it feemed to end in a point; behind which the coaft of the high land, feen over the iflands, ftretched itfelf; and fome thought they could trace where it joined. On the Weft fide of Bald Head, the more forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we faw a number of huts or habitations of the natives. Having, W*- Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break the September. . . . , . .___> next morning we had got into fix fathoms water. At nine urfdayio. O»cjoc]^ being about a league from the Wed fhore, I took two boats, and landed, attended by Mr, King, to feek wood and water. We landed where the coafl projects out into a bluff head, compofed of perpendicular Jlrata of a rock of a dark blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the beach a narrow border of land, now covered with long grafs, and where wc met with fome angelica. Beyond this, the ground rifes abruptly. At the top of this elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a variety of berries; and further on, the country was level, and thinly covered with fmall fprucc trees ; and birch and willows no bigger than broom Huff. We obferved tracks of deer and foies on the beach; on which alfo lay a great quantity of drift-wood; and there was no want of frefh water. I returned on board, with an intention to bring the fliips to an anchor here; but the wind then veering to North Eafl, which blew rather on this more, I ftretched over to the op-pofite one, in the expectation of finding wood there alfo, and anchored at eight o'clock in the evening, under the South end of the Northernmoft ifland: fo we then fuppofed it to Friday ii. De > bur, next morning, we found it to be a peninfula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each fide of which the coaft forms a bay. We plied into the South-ernmoft, and about noon anchored in five fathoms water, over a bottom of mud; the point of the peninfula, which obtained the name of Cape Denbigh, bearing North 68° Weft, three miles diftant. Several people were fecn upon the peninfula; and one man came off in a fmall canoe. I gave him a knife, and a few beads, with which he feemed well pleafed. Having made THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 479 made figns to him to bring us fomethinff to cat, he immc- n r77*« ° ° 0 September. diately left us, and paddled toward the fhore. But, meet- <--/ ing another man coming off, who happened to have two dried Salmon, he got them from him; and on returning to the fhip, would give them to no body but me. Some of our people thought that he afked for me under the name of Ca~ pitane\ but in this they were probably miflaken. He knew who had given him the knife and beads, but I do not fee how he could know that 1 was the Captain. Others of the natives, foon after, came off, and exchanged a few dry fifh, for fuch trifles as they could get, or we had to give them. They were mofl defirous of knives j and they had no diflike to tobacco. After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was fent to the peninfula* to fee if wood and water were there to be got ; or rather water; for the whole beach round the bay feemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the fame time, a boat was fent from each fhip, to found round the bay; and, at three in the afternoon, the wind frefhening at North Eafl, we weighed, in order to work farther in. But it was foon found to be impoflible, on account of the fhoals, which extended quite round the bay, to the diflance of two or three miles from the more ; as the officers, who had been fent to. found, reported. Wc, therefore, kept flanding off and on with the fliips, waiting for Mr. Gore, who returned about eight o'clock, with the launch laden with wood. He reported, that there was but little frefh water; and that wood was difficult to be got at, by reafon of the boats grounding at fome diflance from the beach. This being the. cafe, 1 flood back to the other fhore; and, at eight o'clock the next morning, fent all the boats, and a party of men, Saturday l2 1 with. -with an officer, to get wood from the place where I had landed two days before. Wc continued, for a while, to Hand on and off with the fhips; but, at length, came to an anchor in one-fourth lefs than five fathoms, half a league from the coafl, the South point of which bore South 26* Wefl; and Bald Head, North 6o° Eafl, nine leagues diflant. Cape Denbigh bore South 720 Eafl, twenty-fix miles diflant; and the ifland under the Eafl more, to the Southward of Cape Denbigh, named Bcjhorough I/land, South 520 Eafl, fifteen leagues diflant. As this was a very open road, and confequently not a fafc flation, I refolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require fome time ; but only to fupply the fliips with wood, and then to go in fearch of a more convenient place for the other article. We took off the drift-wood that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along fhore, the boats could fail both ways, which enabled us to make great difpatch. In the afternoon, I went afhore, and walked a little into the country; which, where there was no wood, was covered with heath and other plants, fome of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries were ripe ; the hurtle-berries too much fo; and hardly a fingle plant was in flower. The underwood, fuch as birch, willows, and alders, rendered it very troublefome walking amongfl the trees, which were all fpruce, and none of them above fix or eight inches in diameter. But we found fome lying upon the beach, more than twice this fize. All the drift-wood in thefe Northern parts was fir. I faw not a flick of any other fort. Next day, a family of the natives came near to the place where we were taking off wood. I know not how many there there were at firft; but I faw only the hufband, the wife, and _ f778- J September. their child ; and a fourth perfon who bore the human fhape, u——» and that was all; for he was the moft deformed cripple I had ever fecn or heard of. The other man was almofl blind; and neither he, nor his wife, were fuch good-looking people as we had fometimes feen amongft the natives of this coaft. The under-lips of both were bored; and they had in their poiTeflion fome fuch glafs beads as I had met with before amongft their neighbours. But iron was their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near four hundred pounds weight of fifh, which they had caught on this or the preceding day. Some were trout, and the reft were, in fize and tafte, fome what between a mullet and a herring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads ; on which the mother burft into tears, then the father, then the cripple, and, at laft, to complete the concert, the girl herfelf. But this mufic continued not long*. Before night, we had got the * Captain King has communicated the following account of his interview with the fame family. " On the 12th, while I attended the wooding party, a canoe full of" natives approached us ; and, beckoning them to land, an elderly man and woman came on more. I gave the woman a fmall knife, making her underfland, that X would give her a much larger one for fome fifh. She made figns to me to follow her. I had proceeded with them about a mile, when the man, in croffing a ftony beach, fell down, and cut his foot very much. This made me Hop; upon which the woman pointed to the man's eyes, which, I obferved, were covered with a thick, white film. He afterward kept clofe to his wife, who apprized him of the obftacles in his way. The woman had a little child on her back, covered with the hood of her jacket: and which I took for a bundle, till I heard it cry. At about two miles diftance we came to their open fkin boat, which was turned on its fide, the convex part toward the wind, and ferved for their houfe. I was now made to perform a lingular operation on the man's eyes. Firft, I was directed to hold my breath ; afterward, to breathe on the difeafed eyes ; and next, "to fpit on them. The woman then took both my hands, and prefling them to his ftomach, held them there for fome time, while fhe /elated fome calamitous hiftory of her family ; pointing fometimes to her hufbaiu), Vol. II. 3 q_ fometimes 482 AVOYAGETO !778. September *Z?mLb tne ^'ll?s amply fupplied with wood ; and had carried on board about twelve tons of water to each. Monday On the 14th, a party of men were fent on more to cut brooms, which we were in want of, and the branches of fpruce-trees for brewing beer. Toward noon, every body was taken on board ; for the wind, freshening, had raifed fuch a furf on the beach, that the boats could not continue to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being ftill entertained, whether the coaft we were now upon belonged to an ifland, or the American continent; and the fhallownefs of the water putting it out of our power to determine this with our fliips, I fent Lieutenant King, with two boats under his command, to make fuch fe arches as might leave no room for a variety of opinions on the fub- Tuefday 15. jeft Next day, the fliips removed over to the bay, which is fometimes to a frightful cripple belonging to the family, and fometimes to her child, 1 purchafed all the fifh they had, confiding of very fine falmon, falmon-trout, and mullet; which were delivered moft faithfully to the man I fent for them. The man was about five feet two inches high, and well made ; his colour, of a light copper ; his hair black and fhort, and with little beard. He had two holes in his under-lip, but no ornaments in them. The woman was fhort and fqu'at, with a plump round face ; wore a decr-fkin jacket with a large hood ; and had on wide boots. The teeth of both were black, and feemed as if they had been filed down level with the gums. The woman was punctured from the lip to the chin." * Captain King has been fo good as to communicate his inftructions on this occafion, and the particulars of the fatigue he underwent, in carrying them into execution : ** You are to proceed to the Northward as far as the extreme point wc faw on " Wednefday laft, or a little further, if you think it necetfary j land there, and en-" deavour, from the heights,, to difcover whether the land you are then upon, fup-** pofed to be the ifland of Alafchka, is really an ifland, or joins to the land on the " Eaft, fuppofed to be the continent of America. If the former, you are to fatisfy m yourfelf v/jLth the depth of water in the channel between them, and which way the !* flood-tide cemes. But if you find the two lands connected, lofe no time in found-*' ing ; but make the beft of your way back to the fhip, which you will find at anchor " near the point of land we anchored under on Friday laft. If you perceive any Iikeli- hood is on the South Eafl fide of Cape Denbigh, where wc an- "778. . , c . September. chored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few or the natives >__;— came off in their fmall canoes, and bartered fome dried falmon for fuch trifles as our people had to give them. " hood of a change of weather for the worfe, you are, in that cafe, to return to the " fhip, although you have not performed the fervice you are fent upon. And, at any U rate, you are not to remain longer upon it than four or five days j but the fooncr " it is done the better. If any unforefeen, or unavoidable accident, ihould force the fhips off the coaft, fo that they cannot return at a reafonable time, the rendezvous « is at the harbour of Samganoodha; that is, the place where we laft completed our " water." "JAMES COO K." *' To Lieutenant King" " Our cutter being hoifted out, and thefignal made for the Difcovcry's, at eight at night, on the 14th, we fet out. It was a little unlucky, that the boats crews had been much fatigued during the whole day in bringing things from the ihore. They pulled ftoutly, without reft or intermiflion, toward the land, till one o'clock in the morning of the 15th. I wanted much to have got clofe to it, to have had the advantage of the wind, which had very regularly, in the evening, blown from the land, and in the day-time down the Sound, from the North North Eaft, and was contrary to our courfe; but the men were, at this time, too much fatigued to prefs them farther. We, therefore, fet our fails, and ftood acrofs the bay, which the coaft forms to the Weft of Baldhead, and fteered for it. But, as I expected, by three o'clock, the wind headed us; and, as it was in vain to endeavour to fetch Baldhead with our fails, we again took to the oars. The Difcovery's boat (being a heavy king's-built cutter, while ours was one from Deal) had, in the night-time, detained us very much, and now wc foon pulled out of light of her ; nor would I wait, being in great hopes to reach the extreme point that was in fight, time enough to afcend the heights before dark, as the weather was at this time remarkably clear and fine ; and we could fee to a great diftance. By two o'clock we had got within two miles of Baldhead, under the lee of the high land, and in fmooth water j but, at the moment our object: was nearly attained, all the men, but two, were fo overcome with fatigue and fleep, that my utmoft endeavours to make them put on were ineffectual. They, at length, dropped their oars, quite exhaufted, and fell afleep in the bottom of the boat. Indeed, considering that they had fet out fatigued, and had now been fixteen hours, out of the eighteen fince they left the fhip, pulling in a poppling fea, it was no wonder that their ftrength and fpirits fhould be worn out for want of fleep and refrefhmeats. The two gentlemen, who were with me, and my&Ff, were now obliged to lay hold of the ears ; and, by a little after three, we landed between the Baldhead and a projecting point to the Eaftward." 3 Q.2 At At day-break, on the i6th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a vifit. They approached the fhip with fome cau^ tion; and evidently came with no other view than to gratify their curiofity. They drew up abreaft of each other, under our Hern, and gave us a fong; while one of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thoufand antic motions with his hands and body. There was, however, nothing favagc, either in the fong, or in the geftures that accompanied it. None of us could perceive any difference between thefe people, either as to their fize or features, and thofe whom wc had met with on every other part of the coaft, King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which confifled principally of dcer-fkins, was made after the fame fafhion; and they obferved the cuftom of boring their under lips, and fixing ornaments to them. The dwellings of thefe people were feated clofe to the beach. They confifl fimply of a Hoping.roof, without any fide-walls, compofed of logs, and covered with grafs and earth. The floor is alfo laid with logs ; the entrance is at one end ; the fire-place juft within it; and a fmall hole i& made near the door to let out the fmoke. After breakfaft, a party of men were fent to the peninfula-for brooms and fpruce. At the fame time, half the remainder of the people in each fhip had leave to go and pick berries. Thefe returned on board at noon, when the other half went on the fame errand. The berries to be got here were wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries, and heath-berries. I alfo went afhore myfelf, and walked over part of the peninfula. In feveral places there was very good grafs; and I hardly faw a fpot, on which fome vegetable was not growing. The low land which which connects this peninfula with the continent, is full of c l7?\ 1 September. narrow creeks ; and abounds with ponds of water, fome of ^.—y— which were already frozen over. There were a great many geefe and buflards ; but fo fhy, that it was not poffible to get within mufket-fhot of them. We alfo met with fome fnipes ; and on the high ground were partridges of two forts. Where there was any wood, mufquitoes were in plenty. Some of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met with a few of the natives of both fexes, who treated them with civility. It appeared to me, that this peninfula mufl have been an ifland in remote times ; for there were marks of the fea having flowed over the ifthmus. And, even now, it appeared to be kept out by a bank of fand, (tones, and wood thrown up by the waves. By this bank it was evident, that the land was here encroaching upon the fea, and it was eafy to trace its gradual formation. About feven in the evening, Mr. King returned from his expedition; and reported, that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues farther than the fhips had been able to go ; that he then landed on the Well fide; that, from the heights, he could fee the two coafls join, and the inlet to terminate in a fmall river or creek, before which were banks of fand or mud; and every where fhoal water. The land too, was low and fwampy for fome diflance to the Northward; then it fwelled into hills ; and the complete junction of thofe, on each fide of'the inlet, was cafily traced. From the elevated fpot on which Mr. King furveyed the Sound, he could diflinguifh many extenfive vallies, with rivers running through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle afcent and moderate height. One of thefe rivers to to the North Weft appeared to be confiderable; and, from its direction, he was inclined to think, that it emptied itfelf into the fea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger, the farther they advanced. In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton *, Speaker of the Houfe of Commons, and Mr. King's near relation, I named this inlet Norton*s Sound. It extends to the Northward as far as latitude of 640 The bay, in which we w7erc now at anchor, lies on the South Eafl fide of it; and is called by the natives Chacktoole. It is but an indifferent ftation j being ex-pofed to the South and South Weft winds. Nor is there a harbour in all this Sound. But we were fo fortunate as to have the wind from the North and North Eaft all the time, with remarkable fine weather. This gave us an opportunity to make no lefs than feventy-feven fets of lunar obfervations, between the 6th and 17th inclufive. The mean remit of thefe made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the Wefl fide of the Sound, to be - 1970 13' Latitude - - - - 640 31' Variation of the compafs - - 250 45' Eafl. Dip of the needle - 76" 25' Of the tides it was obferved, that the night-flood rofe about two or three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable. Having now fully fatisfied myfelf, that Mr. Stschlin's map mufl be erroneous j and, having reflored the American continent to that fpacc which he had occupied with his imaginary ifland of Alafchka, it was high time to think of leaving thefe Northern regions, and to retire to fome place * Now Lord Grantley. during daring the winter, where I might procure refreshments for >77«- Septemb my people, and a fmall fupply of provifions. Petropau- «- lowfka, or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtfchatka, did not appear likely to furnifh either the one or the other, for fo large a number of men. I had, befides, other reafons for not repairing thither at this time. The firft, and on which all the others depended, was the great diflike I had to lie inactive for fix or feven months; which would have been the neceffary confequence of wintering in any of thefe Northern parts. No place was fo conveniently within our reach, where we could expect to have our wants relieved, as> the Sandwich Iflands. To them, therefore, I determined to proceed. But before this could be carried into execution, a fuppiy of water was neceffary. With this view, I refolved to fearch the American coaft for a harbour, by proceeding along it to the Southward, and thus endeavour to connect* the furveyof this part of it, with that lying immediately to the North of Cape Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there, my plan was then to proceed to Samganoodha,. which was fixed upon as our place of rendezvous, in cafe of fe par at ion. C H A P. CHAP. XI. Difcoveries after leaving Norton Sound,—Stuart s If and. —Cape Stephens.—Point Shallow-Water.—Shoals on the American Coaf.—Clerke s If and.—Gores If and.— Pinnacle I fand.—Arrival at Oonalafka.-—Intercourfe with the Natives and Ruffian Traders.—Charts of the Ruffian Difcoveries^ communicated by Mr. Ifmyloff.— Their Errors pointed out.—Situation of the Ifands vifted by the Ruffians.—Account of their Settlement at Oonalafka.—Of the Natives of the If and.—Their Perfons. —Drefs.—Orna?nents.—Food.—Houfes and domefic Utenfls.—Manufactures.—Manner of producing Fire. —CaJioes.—Fifing and Huntirg Impleme?its.—Fi/hesy and Sea Animals.—Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.—Land Animals, and Vegetables.—Manner of burying the Dead.—Refemblance of the Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Efquimaux — Tides.—Obfervations for detennining the Longitude of Oonalafhka. Member TT AVINGweighed, on the 17th in the morning, with ,---> JL JL a light breeze at Eaft, we fleered to the Southward, and attempted to pafs within Befborough Ifland j but, though it lies fix or feven miles from the continent, were prevented, by meeting with fhoal water. As we had but little wind all the Th urfdayr 7. the day, it was dark before we patted the ifland: and the e # J r ' Septembc. night was ipent under an eafy fail. w— We refumed our courfe, at day-break on the 18th, along Friday 18. the coafl. At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the latitude was 630 37'. Befborough Ifland now bore North 42° Eaft; the Southernmofl land in fight, which proved alfo to be an ifland, South 66° Wefl; the paffage between it and the main, South 40° Wefl; and the neareft land about two miles diftant. I continued to fteer for this paffage, until the boats, which were ahead, made the fignal for having no more than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the ifland; and made the fignal for the Re-folution's boat to keep between the fhips and the fhore. This ifland, which obtained the name of Stuarts' Ifland, lies in the latitude of 63° 35', and feventeen leagues from Cape Denbigh, in the direction of South if Weft. It is fix or feven leagues in circuit. Some parts of it are of a middling height; but, in general, it is low; with fome rocks lying off the Weftcrn part. The coaft of the continent is, for the moft part, low land j but wc faw high land up the country. It forms a point, oppofitc the ifland, which was named Cape Stephens, and lies in latitude 63*33', and in longitude 197* 41'. Some drift-wood was feen upon the fhores, both of the ifland and of the continent; but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might anchor, upon occafion, between the North Eaft fide of this ilhnd and the continent, in a depth of live fathoms, fhel-tered from Wefterly, Southerly, and Eallerly winds. But this ftation would be wholly expofed to the Northerly winds, the land, in that direction, being at too great a diftance to afford any fecurity. Before wc reached Stuart's Iiland, we Vol. II. 3 R paffed 1 778- paffed two fmall iflands, lying between us and the main; and September. r ft * —as we ranged along the coaft, feveral people appeared upon the fhore, and, by figns, feemed to invite us to approach them. As foon as we were without the ifland, we fleered South by Weft, for the Southernmofl point of the continent in fight, till eight o'clock in the evening, when, having fhoaled the water from fix fathoms to lefs than four, I tacked, and ftood to the Northward, into five fathoms, and then fpent the night lying off and on. At the time we tacked, the Southernmofl point of land, the fame which is mentioned above, and was named Point Shallow-Water, bore South half Eaft, feven leagues diflant. We refumed our courfe to the Southward at day-break Saturday 19. next morning; but fhoal water obliged us to haul more to the Weftward. At length, we got fo far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a North North Wefl courfe, meeting fometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing frefli at Eaft North Eaft, it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coaft, upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of fafety. I therefore hauled the wind to the Northward, and gradually deepened the water to eight fathoms. At the time we hauled the wind, we were at leaft twelve leagues from the continent, and nine to the Weftward of Stuart's Ifland. No land was feen to the Southward of Point Shallow-Water, which I judge to lie in the latitude of 63°. So that between this latitude, and Shoal Nefs, in latitude 6o°, the coaft is entirely unexplored. Probably, it is acceflible only to boats, or very fmall vefTels ; or, at leaft, if there be channels for larger veffels, it would require fome time to find them j and I am of opinion, that 1 they THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45 they mufl be looked for near the coaft. From the mafl head, „ ♦ 1 • -i n September the fea within us appeared to be chequered with fhoals; the <-«— water was very much difcoloured and muddy; and confiderably frefher than at any of the places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, that a confiderable river runs into the fea, in this unknown part. As foon as we got into eight fathoms water, I fleered to the Weftward, and afterward more Southerly, for the land difcovered on the 5th, which, at noon the next day, bore Sunday 20. South Weft by Wefl, ten or eleven leagues diftant. At this time, we had a frefli gale at North, with fhowers of hail and fnow at intervals, and a pretty high fea; fo that we got clear of the fhoals but juft in time. As I now found that the land before us lay too far to the Weftward to be Anderfon's Ifland, I named it Clerke*s Ifland. It lies in the latitude of 63° 15', and in the longitude of 190° 30'. It feemed to be a pretty large ifland, in which are four or more hills, all connected by low ground; fo that, at a diftance, it looks like a group of illands. Near its Eaft part lies a fmall ifland remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not only the greater iiland, but this fmall fpot was inhabited. We got up to the Northern point of Gierke's Ifland about fix o'clock, and having ranged along its coaft till dark, brought to during the night. At day-break,next morning, we Monday 21 ftood in again for the coaft, and continued to range along it, in fearch of a harbour, till noon; when, feeing no likelihood of fucceeding, I left it, and fleered South South Wefl, for the land which we had difcovered on the 29th of July 5 having a frefh gale at North, with fhowers of fleet and fnow. I remarked, that as foon as we opened the channel which feparatcs the two continents, cloudy weather, with ,3 I! % fnow c I778. fnow mowers immediately commenced ; whereas, all the September, . * r >,—time that we were in Norton Sound, we had, with the fame wind, clear weather. Might not this be occafioned by the mountains to the North or' that place attracting the vapours, and hindering them to proceed any farther ? Wednef, 23. day-break in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned appeared in fight, bearing South Wefl, fix or feven leagues diflant. From this point of view, it refemblcd a group of iflands; but it proved to be but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of North Wefl and South Eafl; the South Eafl end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The ifland is but narrow j efpecially at the low necks of land that connect the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly unknown to the Ruffians ; and therefore confidering it as a difcovery of our own, I named it Gore's ifland. It appeared to be barren, and without inhabitants ; at leafl we faw none. Nor did we fee fomany birds about it, as when we firfl difcovered it. But we faw fome fea-otters ; an animal which we had not met with to the North of this latitude. Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of South, 720 Weft, lies a fmall ifland, whofe elevated fummit terminates in fevcral pinnacle rocks. On this account it was named 'Pinnacle Ifland. At two in the afternoon, after pafling Cape Upright, I fleered South Eaft by South, for Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at North North Weft, being refolved to fpend no more time in fearching for a harbour amongft iflands, which I now began to fufpect had no cxiftence j at leaft, not in the latitude and longitude where modern map-makers have thought proper to place them. Thurfday24. In the evening of the 24th, the wind veered to South Weft and South, and increafed to a frefh gale. We continued to flretch to the Eaftward, till eight o'clock „ !77*: September. in the morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 580 32' and in the longitude of 191° io', wc tacked and flood to the Weft; and foon after, the gale increafing, we were reduced to two courfes, and clofe-reefed main top-fails. Not long after, the Refolution fprung a leak, under the flarboard buttock, which filled the fpirit-room with water, before it was difcovered; and it was fo confiderable as to keep one pump conflantly employed. We durft not put the fhip upon the other tack, for fear of getting upon the fhoals that lie to the North Wefl of Cape Newenham ; but continued Handing to the Wefl, till fix in the evening of the 26th, Saturday 26„ when we wore and flood to the Eaflward ; and then the leak no longer troubled us. This proved, that it was above the water line ; which was no fmall fatisfaction. The gale was now over; but the wind remained at South and South Wefl for fome days longer. At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we faw oaober. the ifland of Oonalafhka, bearing South Eafl. But as this n ayz' was to us a new point of view, and the land was obfeured by a thick haze, we were not fure of our fituation till noon, when the obferved latitude determined it. As all harbours were alike to me, provided they were equally fafe and convenient, I hauled into a bay, that lies ten miles to the Well-ward of Samganoodha, known by the name of EgoochJJjnc-^ but we found very deep water ; fo that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived here, vifited us at different times, bringing with them dried falmon, and other fifh, which they exchanged with the fcamen for tobacco. But a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in the fhip had been diflributed among them ; and the quantity was not half fufficient to anfwer their demands. Notwithftanding Notwithftanding this, fo improvident a creature is an Englifh failor, that they were as profufe in making their bargains, as if wc had now arrived at a port in Virginia; by which means, in lefs than eight and forty hours, the value of this article of barter was lowered above a thoufand per cent. At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha Harbour ; and the next morning, the carpenters of both fliips were fet to work to rip off the flieath-ing of and under the wale, on the flarboard fide abaft. Many of the feams were found quite open ; fo that it was no wonder that fo much water had found its way into the fhip. While wc lay here, we cleared the fifh and fpirit rooms, and the after-hold ; difpofing things in fuch a manner, that in cafe we fhould happen to have any more leaks of the fame nature, the water might find its way to the pumps. And befides this work, and completing our water, wc cleared the fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a quantity of ballaft. The vegetables which wc had met with, when we were here before, were now moflly in a ftate of decay ; fo that we were but little benefited by the great quantities of berries every where found afhore. In order to avail ourfelves as much as poflible of this ufeful refreshment, one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them. Confiderable quantities of them were alfo procured from the natives. If there were any feeds of the fcurvy, in either fhip, thefe berries, and the ufe of fpruce beer, which they had to drink every other day, effectually eradicated thein. We alfo got plenty of fifh j at firfl, moftly falmon, both frefli and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of 1-»-' the frefli falmon was in high perfection j but there was one fort, which we called hook-nofed, from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the feine feveral times, at the head of the bay; and caught a good many falmon trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-four pounds. The fifhcry failing, we had recourfe to hooks and lines. A boat was fent out every morning; and feldom returned without eight or ten halibut; which was more than fufficient to fcrve all our people. The halibut were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to falmon. Thus we not only procured a fupply of fifh for prefent confumption, but had fome to carry with us to fea. This enabled us to make a confiderable faving of our provifions, which was an object: of no fmall importance. On the 8th, I received by the hands of an Oonalafhka Thuria*] r, man, named Derramoufhk, a very angular prefent, con-fidering the place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye made in the form of a loaf, for it inclofed fome falmon, highly feafoned with pepper. This man had the like prefent for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a character which none of us could read. It was natural to fuppofe, that this prefent was from fome Ruffians now in our neighbourhood and therefore we fent, by the fame hand, to thefe our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, winc> and porter; which we thought would be as acceptable as any thing we had befides; and we foon knew, that in this we had not been miftaken. I alfo fent along with Derra-mouflik, Corporal Lediard of the marines, an intelligent man, in order to gain fome farther information, with orders., that if he met with any Ruffians, he fhould endeavour to •773. to make them underfland, that we were Englifh, the friends October. —*—* and allies of their nation. Saturday 10, On the loth, Lediard returned with three Ruffian feamen, or furriers; who, with fome others, refided at Egoochfhac, where they had a dwelling-houfe, fome ftore-houfes, and a floop of about thirty tons burthen. One' of thefe men was either Mailer or Mate of this veffel; another of them wrote a very good hand, and underftood figures ; and they were all three well behaved intelligent men, and very ready to give me all the information I could defire. But for want of an interpreter, we had fome difficulty to underfland each other. They appeared to have a thorough knowledge of the attempts that had been made by their countrymen to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the difcoveries which had been made from Kamtfchatka, by Beering, TfchcrikofF, and Spangenberg. But they feemed to know no more of Lieutenant Syndo*, or Synd, than his name. Nor had they the leaft idea what part of the world Mr. Staehlin's map referred to, when it was laid before them. When I pointed out Kamtfchatka, and fome other known places, upon that map, they afked, whether I had feen the iflands there laid down ; and on my anfwering in the negative, one of them put his finger upon a part of this map, where a number of iflands are reprefented, and faid, that he had cruifed there for land, but never could find any. I then laid before them my own chart; and found that they were ftrangers to every part of the American coaft, except what lies oppofite this ifland. One of thefe men faid, that he had been with Beering, in his American voyage ; but muft then have been very * See the little that is known of Synd's voyage, accompanied with a chart, in Mr. Coxe's Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 300. y°ung> young, for he had not now, at the diftance of thirty-feven »7?8- J a October, yca'rs, the appearance of being aged. Never was there v__*-» greater refpect: paid to the memory of any diftinguifhed perfon, than by thefe men to that of Beering. The trade in which they are engaged is very beneficial; and its being undertaken and extended to the Eaftward of Kamtfchatka, was the immediate confequence of the fecond voyage of that able navigator, whofe misfortunes proved to be the fource of much private advantage to individuals, and of public utility to the Ruffian nation. And yet, if his diflreffes had not accidentally carried him to die in the iiland which bears his name, and from whence the miferable remnant of his fhip's crew brought back fuilicient fpecimens of its valuable furs, probably the Ruflians never would have undertaken any future voyages, which could lead them to make difcoveries in this fea, toward the coafl of America. Indeed, after his time, government feems to have paid lefs attention to this ; and we owe what difcoveries have been fince made, principally to the enterprifing fpirit of private traders, encouraged, however, by the fuperintending care of the Court of Peterfburg. The three Ruflians having remained with me all night, vifited Captain Clerke next morning; and Sunday n then left us, very well fatisfied with the reception they had met with; promifmg to return in a few days, and to bring with them a chart of the illands lying between Oona-lafhka and Kamtfchatka. On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr. Webber and I Wedner. were at a village at a fmall diflance from Samganoodha, a Ruffian landed there, who, I found, was the principal perfon amongfl his countrymen in this and the neighbouring iflands. His name was Erafim Gregorioff Sin Ifmyloff. He arrived in a canoe carrying three perfons, attended by Vol. II. 3 S twenty Thurfllay 15. oa7b twenty or thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man I took notice, that the firfl thing they did, after landing, was to make a fmall tent for Ifmyloff, of materials which they brought with them ; and then they made others for themfelvcs, of their canoes and paddles, which they covered with grafs; fo that the people of the village were at no trouble to find them lodging. Ifmyloff having invited us into his tent, fet before us fome dried falmon and berries; which, I was fatisfied, was the beft cheer he had. He appeared to be a fcnfible intelligent man; and I felt no fmali mortification in not being able to converfc with him, unlefs by figns, aflifled by figures, and other characters; which however were a very great help. I defircd to fee him on board the next day; and accordingly he came, with all his attendants. Indeed, he had moved into our neighbourhood, for the exprefs purpofe of waiting upon us. I was in hopes to have had by him, the chart which his three countrymen had promifed; but I was difappointed. However, he allured me I fhould have it; and he kept his word. I found that he was very well acquainted with the geography of thefe parts, and with all the difcoveries that had been made in them by the Ruflians. On feeing the modern maps, he at once pointed out their errors. He told me, he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, or Synd as he called him, in his expedition to the North; and, according to his account, they did not proceed farther than the Tfchukotfkoi Nos, or rather than the bay of St. Laurence; for he pointed on our chart to the very place where I landed. From thence, he faid, they went to an ifland in latitude 630, upon which they did. not land, nor could he tell me its name. But I fhould guefs it to be the fame to which I gave *he name of Clerke's Ifland. To what place Synd went * after. / after that, or in what manner he fpent the two years, during QJ^V which, as Ifmyloff faid, his refearchcs lailed, he cither <--*~—> could not or would not inform us. Perhaps he did not com. prehend our inquiries about this; and yet, in almofl every other thing, we could make him underfland us. This created a fufpicion, that he had not really been in that expedition, notwithflanding his affertion. Both Ifmyloff and the others affirmed, that they knew nothing of the continent of America to the Northward; and that neither Lieutenant Synd, nor any other Ruffian, had ever feen it of late. They call it by the fame name which Mr. Stcchlin gives to his great ifland; that is Alafchka. Stachtan Nitada, as it is called in the modern maps, is a name quite unknown to thefe people, natives of the iflands as well as Ruffians ; but both of them know it by the name of America. From what we could gather from Ifmyloff and his countrymen, the Ruflians have made feveral attempts to get a footing upon that part of this continent, that lies contiguous to Oonalafhka and the adjoining iflands, but have always been repulfcd by the natives; whom they describe as a very treacherous people. They mentioned two or three Captains, or Chief men, who had been murdered by them ; and fome of the Ruffians fhewed us wounds which, they faid, they had received there. Some other information, which wc got from Ifmyloff, is worth recording, whether true or falfe. He told us, that in the year 1773, an expedition had been made into the Frozen Sea in fledges, over the ice, to three large iflands that lie oppofite the mouth of the river Kovyma. Wc were in fome doubt, whether he did not mean the fame expedition of 3 s 2 which 3b" which Muller gives an account*; and yet he wrote down *-' the year, and marked the iflands on the chart. But a voyage which he himfelf had performed, engaged our attention more than any other. He faid, that on the 12th of May 1771, he failed from Bolfchcretzk, in a Ruffian veffel, to one of the Kuril Iflands, named Mareekan, in the latitude of 470, where there is a harbour, and a Ruffian fettlcmcnt-From this ifland, he proceeded to Japan, where he feems to have made but a fhort flayy For when the Japanefe came to know that he and his companions were chriflians, they made figns for them to be gone; but did not, fo far aswc could underfland him, offer any infult or force. From Japan, he got to Canton j and from thence to France, in a French fhip. From France, he travelled to Peteriburg; and was afterward fent out again to Kamtfchatka. What became of the veffel in which he firll embarked, we could not learn ; nor what was the principal object of the voyage. His not being able to fpeak one word of French, made this flory a little fufpicious. He did not even know the name of any one of the mofl common things that mufl have been in ufe every day, while he was on board the fhip, and in France. And yet he feemed clear as to the times of his arriving at the different places, and of his leaving them, which he put down in writing, * The lateft expedition of this kind,, taken notice of by Muller, was in 1.72{. But in juftice to Mr. Ifmyloff, it may be proper to mention, which is done on the authority of a MS. communicated by Mr. Pennant, and the fubftance of which has been publifhed by Mr. Coxe, that, fo late as 1768, the Governor of Siberia fent three young officers over the ice, in fledges, to the iflands oppofite the mouth of the Kovyma. There feems no reafon for not (iippofing, that a fubiequent expedition of this fort mi^ht alfo be undertaken in 1773- Mr. Coxe, p. 374. places the expedition on fledges in 1764 ; but Mr. Pennant's MS. may be depended upon. The The next morning, he would fain have made me a pre- \77,8- ° * October. fent of a fea-otter fkin, which, he faid, was worth eighty —a--', roubles at Kamtfchatka. However, I thought proper to dc- " ay cline it; but I accepted of fome dried fifh, and feveral baf-kets of the lily, or faranne root, which is defcribed at large in the Hiflory of Kamtfchatka *. In the afternoon, Mr. Ifmyloff, after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, promifing to return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he made us another vifit, and brought with Monday ir> him the charts before mentioned, which he allowed me to copy; and the contents of which furnifh matter for the following obfervations. There were two of them, both manufcripts, and bearing every mark of authenticity. The firft, comprehended the Penfiinfkian Sea ; the coafl of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41°; the Kuril Iflands; and the peninfula of Kamtfchatka. Since this map had been made, Wawfcelee Irkeechoff, Captain of the fleet, explored, in 1758, the coafl of Tartary^ from Okotfk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 418 of latitude. Mr. Ifmyloff alfo informed us, that great part of the fea-coaft of the peninfula of Kamtfchatka had been corrected by himfelf; and defcribed the inflrument he made-ufe of, which mull have been a theodolite. He alfo informed us, that there were only two harbours fit for fhipping, on all the Eaft coalt of Kamtfchatka, viz. the bay of Aivatfiay and the river Olutcra, in the bottom of the Gulf of the fame name; that there was not a fingle harbour upon its Wefl coafl ; and that Vcmjk was the only one on all the Wefl fide of the Penfchinfkian Sea, except Okotfk, till wc come to the river Amur. The Kurile Iflands afford only one har- * Knglifh Translation, p. 83, 84. 1 5 hour; hour; and that is on the North Eaft fide of Marcekan, in the latitude of 474 0; where, as I have before obferved, the Poif-fians have a fcttlement. The fecond chart was, to me, the moft interefting; for it comprehended all the difcoveries made by the Ruflians to the Eaft ward of Kamtfchatka, toward America ; which, if we exclude the voyage of Beering and TfcherikofF, will amount to little or nothing. The part of the American coaft, with which the latter fell in, is marked in this chart, between the latitude of 580 and 581°, and 75° of longitude from Okotfk, or aiBi" from Greenwich; and the place where the former anchored in 591° of latitude, and 63^0 of longitude from Okotfk, or 2070 from Greenwich. To fay nothing of the longitude, which may be erroneous from many caufes, the latitude of the coafl, difcovered by thefe two navigators, efpccially the part of it difcovered by TfcherikofF, differs confiderably from the account publifhed by Mr. Muller, and his chart. Indeed, whether Muller's chart, or this now produced by Mr. Ifmyloff, be mofl erroneous in this rcfpccl, it may be hard to determine ; though it is not now a point worth di feu fling, But the iflands that lie difperfed between 520 and 550 of latitude, in the fpace between Kamtfchatka and America, deferve fome notice. According to Mr. Ifmyloff's account, neither the number nor ihc fituation of thefe iflands is well afecrtained. He ftruck out about one third of them, alluring me they had no exift-ence; and he altered the fituation of others confiderably; which, he faid, was neceffary, from his own obfervations. And there was no reafon to doubt about this. As thefe iflands lie all nearly under the fame parallel, different navigators, being milled by their different reckonings, might eafily miftakc one iiland, or group of iflands, for another; and and fancy they had made a new difcovery, when they had 0^7b8e; only found old ones in a different polition from that afligned <—-*--1 to them by their former vifiters. The iflands of St. Macarius, St. Stephen, St. Theodore, St. Abraham, Seduction Iiland, and fome others, which arc to be found in Mr, Muller's chart, had no place in this now produced to us ; nay, both Mr. Ifmyloff, and the others af-fured me, that they had been feveral times fought for in vain. And yet it is difficult to believe, how Mr. Muller, ■ from whom fubfequcnt map-makers have adopted them, could place them in his chart without fome authority. Relying, however, on the teftimony of thefe people, whom I thought competent witneffes, I have left them out of my chart; and made fuch corrections amongft the other iflands as I was told was neceffary. I found there was wanting another correction ; for the difference of longitude, between the Bay of Awatfka, and the harbour of Samganoodha, according to aftronomical obfervations, made at thefe two places, is greater by five degrees and a half, than it is by the chart. This error I have fuppofed to be infufed throughout the whole, though it may not be fo in reality. There was alfo an error in the latitude of fome places; but this hardly exceeded a quarter of a degree. I mail now give fome account of the iflands ; beginning with thofe that lie neareft to Kamtfchatka, and reckoning the longitude from the harbour of Petropaulowfka, in the Bay of Awatfka. The firfl is Beeringys Ifland, in 55* of latitude, and 6° of longitude. Ten leagues from the South end of this, in the direction of Eafl by South, or Eafl South Eafl, lies Maidenoi Ojlroff, or the Copper Ifland. The next ifland is Atakou, laid down in 52* 45' of latitude, and in 150 or i6J of longitude. This iiland is about eighteen leagues in extent, in the direction of Eaft and Weft; and feems to be the fame land which Beering fell in with, and named Mount St. John. But there are no iflands about it, except two inconfidcrablc ones, lying three or four leagues from the Eafl end, in the direction of Eaft North Eaft. Wc next come to a group, confiding of fix or more iflands; two of which, Atghka and Amluk are tolerably large; and in each of them is a good harbour. The middle of this group lies in the latitude of 52*30', and 28* of longitude from Awatfka; and its extent, Eafl and Wed, is four degrees. Thefe are the ifles that Mr. Ifmyloff faid were to be removed four degrees to the Eaft, which is here done. And in the fituation they have in my chart, was a group, confiding of ten fmall iflands, which, I was told, were wholly to be flruck out ; and alfo two iflands lying between them and the group to which Oonalafhka belongs. In the place of thefe two, an ifland called Amoghta (which in the chart was fituatcd in the latitude of 510 45', and 40 of longitude to the Wefl) was brought. Nothing more need be faid to fhew how erroneous the fituation of many of thefe iflands may be ; and for which I am in nowifc accountable. But the pofition of the largefl group, of which Oonalafhka is one of the principal iflands, and the only one in which there is a harbour, is not liable to any fuch errors. Mod of thefe iflands were feen by us ; and confequcntly their latitude and longitude were pretty exactly determined ; particularly the harbour of Samga-noodha in Oonalafhka, which muft be looked upon as a fixed point. This group of iflands may he faid to extend as far at Halibut Ifles, which are forty leagues from Oonalafhka lafhka toward the Eaft North Eaft. Within thefe ifles. a . Oftobsr. paffage was marked in IfmylofFs chart, communicating with <__„—.» Briftol Bay; which converts about fifteen leagues of the coafl, that I had fuppofed to belong to the continent, into an ifland, diftinguifhed by the name of OonecmaL This paffage might eafily efcape us, as we were informed that it is very narrow, fhallow, and only to be navigated through with boats, or very fmall veffels. It appeared by the chart, as well as by the teftimony of Ifmyloff and the other Ruflians, that this is as far as their countrymen have made any difcoveries, or have extended themfelves, iince Beering's time. They all faid, that no Ruffians had fettled themfelves fo far to the Eaft as the place where the natives gave the note to Captain Clerke; which Mr. Ifmyloff, to whom I delivered it, on perilling it, faid, had been written at Oomanak. It was, however, from him that wc got the name of Kodiak *, the largeft of Schumagin's Iflands ; for it had no name upon the chart produced by him. The names of all the other iflands were taken from it, and we wrote them down as pronounced by him. He faid, they were all fuch as the natives themfelvcs called their illands by; but, if fo, fome of the names feem to have been flrangely altered. It is worth obferving, that no names were put to the iflands which Ifmyloff told us were to be flruck out of the chart; and I confidered this as fome confirmation that they have not exiftence. I have already obferved, that the American continent is here called, by the Ruflians, as well as by the illanders, Alafchka ; which name, though it properly belong only to * A Ruffian (hip had been at Kodiack, in 17765 as appears from a MS. obligingly communicated by Mr. Pennant, Vol, lb 3 T the oaober t*ie countlT adjoining to Oonemak, is ufed by them when \—„~—» fpeaking of the American continent in general, which they know perfectly well to be a great land. This is all the information I got from thefe people, relating to the geography of this part of the world; and I have reafon to believe that this was all the information they were able to give. For they affured me, over and over again, that they knew of no other iflands, befides thofe which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Ruffian had ever feen any part of the continent of America to the Northward, except that which lies oppofue the country of the Tfchutfkis. If Mr. Stsehlin was not grofsly impofed upon, what could induce him to publifh a map, fo Angularly erroneous; and in which many of thefe iflands are jumbled together in regular confufion, without the leaf! regard to truth? And yet, he is pleafed to call it a very accurate little map Indeed, it is a map to which the mofl illiterate of his illiterate fea-faring countrymen would have been afhamcd to fet his name. Wcdncf 21 Ifrnyloff remained with us till the 2iff, in the even- ing, when he took his final leave. To his care I intruded a letter to the Lords Commiflioncrs of the Admiralty * in which was inclofed a chart of all the Northern coafls I had vifited. He faid there would be an opportunity of fending it to K-mit fchatka, or Okotfk, the enfuing fpring; and that it would he at Petersburg the following winter. He gave me a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtfchatka, who re-fides at Bolfcheretfk j and another to the commanding Of- * Stxhlin's New Northern Archipelago, p. 15. ficer THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 5 ficer at Petropaulowfka. Mr. Ifmyloff feemed to have abili- , !77&- October ties that might entitle him to a higher ftation in lire, than \___ that in which we found him. He was tolerably well verfed in aftronomy, and in the moft ufeful branches of the mathematics. I made him a prefent of an Hadley's octant; and though, probably, it was the firft he had ever feen, he made himfelf acquainted, in a very fhort time, with moft of the ufes to which that inflrument can be applied. In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get to Thurfday fea, with the wind at South Eaft, which mifcarried. The following afternoon, we were vifited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Friday 33 SopofnicofF, a Ruffian, who commanded a boat, or fmall veffel, at Oomanak. This man had a great fhare of mo-defly; and would drink no flrong liquor, of which the refl of his countrymen, whom we had met with here, were immoderately fond. He feemed to know more accurately what fupplies could be got at the harbour of Petropaulowfka, and the price of the different articles, than Mr. Ifmyloff. But, by all accounts, every thing we fhould want at that place was very fcarce, and bore a high price. Flour, for inftance, was from three to five roubles the pood*; and deer, from three to five roubles each. This man told us that he was to be at Petropaulowfka in May next; and, as I underftood, was to have the charge of my letter. He feemed to be exceedingly defirous of having fome token from me to carry to Major Behm; and, to gratify him, I fent a fmall fpying-glafs. After we became acquainted with thefe Ruffians, fome of our gentlemen, at different times, vifited their fettlement on * 361b. 3T2 the the iiland; where they always met with a hearty welcome. This fettlement confifted of a dwelling-houfc, and two ftore-houfes. And, befides the Ruffians, there was a number of the Kamtfchadales, and of the natives, as fervants, or flaves» to the former. Some others of the natives, who feemed independent of the Ruflians, lived at the fame place. Such of them as belonged to the Ruffians were all males; and they are taken, or, perhaps, purchafed from their parents when young. There was, at this time, about twenty of thefe, who could be looked upon in no other light than as children. They all live in the fame houfe ; the Ruflians at the upper end, the Kamtfchadales in the middle; and the natives at the lower end ; where is fixed u. large boiler for preparing their food, which confifts chiefly of what the fea produces, with the addition of wild roots and berries. There is little difference between the firfl and laft table, befides what is produced by cookery, in which the Ruflians have the art to make indifferent things palatable. I have cat whale's flefh of their dreffing, which I thought very good ; and they made a kind of pan-pudding of falmon roe, beaten up fine, and fried, that is no bad fuccedaneum for bread. They may, now and then, tafle real bread, or have a difh in which flour is an ingredient; but this can only be an occafional luxury. If we except the juice of berries, which they f>p at their meals, they have no other liquor befides pure water ; and it feems to be very happy for them that they have nothing flronger. As the ifland fupplics them with food, fo it does, in a great meafure, with clothing. This confifts chiefly of ikins, and is, perhaps, the befl they could have. The upper garment is made like our waggoner's frock, and reaches as low as tl\e knee. Befides this, they wear a waiflcoat or two, a pair i of. of breeches; a fur cap ; and a pair of boots, the foles and upper leathers of which are of Ruffian leather ; but the legs are made of fome kind of flrong gut. Their two Chiefs, Ifmyloff and Ivanovitch, wore each a calico frock; and they, as well as fome others, had fhirts, which were of filk. Thefe, perhaps, were the only part of their drefs not made amongfl themfelves. There arc Ruffians fettled, upon all the principal iflands between Oonalafhka and Kamtfchatka, for the fole purpofe of collecting furs. Their great object is the fea beaver or ottcr. I never heard them inquire after any other animal; though thofe, whofe fkins are of inferior value, are alfo made part of their cargoes. I never thought to afk how long they have had a fettlement upon Oonalafhka, and the neighbouring ifles; but, to judge from the great fubjeclion the natives are under, this cannot be of a very late date*. All thefe furriers are relieved, from time to time, by others* Thofe we met with arrived here from Okotfk, in 1776, and are to return in 1781; fo that their flay at the ifland will be four years at leafl. It is now time to give fome account of the native inhabitants. To all appearance, they are the mofl peaceable, inof-fenfivc people, I ever met with. And, as to honefly, they might fervc as a pattern to the mofl civilized nation upon earth. But, from what I faw of their neighbours, with whom the Ruffians have no connection, I doubt whether this was their original difpofition ; and rather think that it has been the confequence of their prefent flate of fubjection. Indeed, if fome of our gentlemen did * The Ruflians began to frequent Oonalafhka in 1762. See Coxe's RuJ/ian Difcoveries, ch. viii. p. 80. not •77*- not mifundcrfland the Ruffians, they had been obliged to October. * ° —„—. make fome fevere examples*, before they could bring the iilanders into any order. If there were feverities inflicted at firft, the befl apology for them is, that they have produced the happicft confcquenccs; and, at prefent, the greateft harmony fublifts between the two nations. The natives have their own Chiefs in each iiland, and feem to enjoy liberty and property unmOlefted. But whether or no they are tributaries to the Ruffians, we could never find out. There was fome reafon to think that they are. Thefe people are rather low of ftature, but plump and well fliapedj with rather fhort necks; fwarthy chubby faces j black eyes ; fmall beards; unci long, flraight, black hair; which the men wear loofe behind, and cut before, but the women tie up in a bunch. Their drefs has been occafionally mentioned. Both fexes wear the fame in fafhion; the only difference is in the materials. The women's frock is made of feal fkin ; and that of the men, of the fkins of birds; both reaching below the knee. This is the whole drefs of the women. But, over the frock, the men wear another made of gut, which rc-.fifls water ; and has a hood to it, which draws over the head. Some of them wear boots; and all of them have a kind of oval fnouted cap, made of wood, with a rim to admit the head. Thefe caps are dyed with green and other colours ; and round the upper part of the rim, are fluck the long briflles of fome fea-animal, on which are fining glafs beads; and on the front is a fmall image or two made of bone. * Sec the particulars of hostilities between the Ruflians and .natives, in Coxe, a* cited above. They They make ufe of no paint ; but the women puncture their faces (lightly; and both men and women bore the under lip, to which they fix pieces of bone. But it is as uncommon, at Oonalafhka, to fee a man with this ornament, as to fee a woman without it. Some fix beads to the upper lip, under the noftrils; and all of them hang ornaments in their ears. Their food confifts of fifh, fea-animals, birds, roots, and berries ; and even of fea-weed. They dry large quantities of fifh in fummer; which they lay up in fmalHiuts for winter ufe; and, probably, they preferve roots and berries for the fame time of fcarcity. They eat almofl every thing raw. Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that I faw them make ufe of; and the firft was probably learnt from the Ruffians. Some have got little brafs kettles; and thofe who have not, make one of a flat flone, with fides of clay, not unlike a Handing pye. I was once prefent, when the Chief of Oonalafhka made his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, juft caught. Before any was given to the Chief, two of his fervants eat the gills, without any other drefling, befides fqueezing out the flime. This done, one of them cutoff the head of the fi.fh, took it to the fea and warned it; then came with it, and fat down by the Chief; firfl pulling up fome grafs, upon a part of which the head was laid, and the reft was flrewed before the Chief. He then cut large pieces off the cheeks, and laid thefe within the reach of the great man, who fwal-lowed them with as much fatisfaction as we fhould do raw oyflers. When he had done, the remains of the head were cut in pieces, and given to the attendants, who tore off the meat meat with their teeth, and gnawed the bones like fo many dogs. As thefe people ufe no paint, they are not fo dirty in their perfons as the ravages who thus befmear themfelves; but they are full as loufy and filthy in their houfes. Their method of building is as follows: They dig, in the ground, an oblong fquare pit, the length of which feldom exceeds fifty feet, and the breadth twenty; but in general the di-menfions are fmaller. Over this excavation they form the roof of wood which the fea throws afhore. This roof is covered firft with grafs, and then with earth ; fo that the outward appearance is like a dunghill. In the middle of the roof, toward each end, is left a fquare opening, by which the light is admitted; one of thefe openings being for this purpofe only, and the other being alfo ufed to go in and out by, with the help of a ladder, or rather a poft, with ffepscut in it *. In fome houfes there is another entrance below; but this is not common. Round the fides and ends of the huts, the families (for feveral are lodged together) have their feparate apartments, where they fleep, and fit at work; not upon benches, hut in a kind of a concave trench, which is dug all round the infide of the houfe, and covered with mats; fo that this part is kept tolerably decent. But the middle of the houfe, which is common to all the families, is far other-wife, for, although it be covered with dry grafs, it is a receptacle for dirt of every kind, and the place for the urine trough -t the flench of which is not mended by * Mr. Coxc's description of the habitations of the natives of Oonalafhka, and the other Fox Iflands, in general, agrees with Captain Cook's. See Ruffian Difcoveries, p. 149. '': alfo Ifi/hire des dijf'i rents Penples foumis a ia Domination des Ruffes, par M. Levefque, Tom. I. p. 40,41. raw raw hides, or leather being almofl continually fleeped in it. Behind and over the trench, are placed the few effects they are poffeffed of; fuch as their clothing, mats, and fkins. Their houfehold furniture confifts of bowls, fpoons, buckets, piggins or cans, matred bafkets, and perhaps a Ruffian kettle or pot. All thefe utenfils arc very neatly made, and well formed ; and yet we faw no other tools among th em but the knife and the hatchet; that is, a fmall flat piece of iron, made like an adze, by fitting it into a crooked wooden handle. Thefe were the only inftruments we met with there, made of iron. For although the Ruflians live amongft them, we found much lefs of this metal in their poffef-fion, than we had met with in the pofleiTion of other tribes on the American continent, who had never feen, nor perhaps had any intercourfe with the Ruffians. Probably, a a few beads, a little tobacco and muff, purchafe all they have to fpare. There are few, if any of them, that do not both fmoke, and chew tobacco, and take fnuff; a luxury that bids fair to keep them always poor. They did not feem to wifh for more iron, or to want any other inftruments, except fewing needles, their own being made of bone. With thefe they not only few their canoes, and make their clothes, but alfo very curious embroidery. Inflead of thread, they ufe the fibres of finews, which they fplit to the thicknefs which each fort of work requires. All fewing is performed by the women. They are the taylors, fhoemakcrs, and boat-builders, or boat-coverers; for the men, mofl probably, conflruct the frame of wood over which the fkins are fewed. They make mats and bafkets of grafs, that are both beautiful and flrong. Indeed, there is a ncatnefs Vol. Ik s U and 177*- and perfection in moll of their work, that fhews they nel- Oclobcr. . , x—i thcr want ingenuity nor perfeverancc. I faw not a fire-place in any one of their houfes. They arc lighted, as well as heated, by lamps; which arc fimple, and yet anfwer the purpofe very well. They are made of a flat flone, hollowed on one fide like a plate, and about the lame fize, or rather larger. In the hollow part they put the oil, mixed with a little dry grafs, which ferves the purpofe of a wick. Both men and women frequently warm their bodies over one of thefe lamps, by placing it between their legs, under their garments, and fitting thus over it for a few minutes. They produce fire both by colllfion and by attrition; the former by finking two floncs one again 11 another ; on one of which a good deal of brimftone is firil rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of wood ; one of which is a (lick of about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the flick they prefs upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing fire in a few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is practifed by the Kamtfchadales, by thefe people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders; and probably by many other nations. Yet fome learned and ingenious men have founded an argument on this cuftorn to prove, that this and that nation are of the fame extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few particular inftances, will not authorife fuch a conclufion; nor will a difagree-ment, either in manners or cuftoms, between two different nations, of courfe, prove that they arc of different cxtrac- 7 tion, THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 5 don. I could fupport this opinion by many inftances befides '778. Oftober. the one juft mentioned. <-„—. No fuch thing as an offenfive or even defenftve weapon was feen amongft the natives of Oonalafhka. We cannot fuppofe that the Ruffians found them in fuch a defencelefs ftate; it is more probable that, for their own fecurity, they have difarmed them. Political reafons too may have induced the Ruflians not to allow thefe iflanders to have any large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none fuch originally, as we found them amongfl all their neighbours. However, we faw none here but one or two belonging to the Ruflians. The canoes made ufe of by the natives are the fmallefl we had any where fecn upon the American coafl; though built after the fame manner, with fome little difference in the conftruetion. The flern of thefe terminates a little abruptly; the head is forked ; the upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even with the furface of the water. Why they fhould thus conftrucT them is difficult to conceive ; for the fork is apt to catch hold of every thing that comes in the way ; to prevent which, they fix a piece -of fmall flick from point to point. In other refpecTs, their canoes are built after the manner of thofe ufed by the Greenlanders and Efquimaux; the framing being of flender laths, and the covering of feal-fkins. They are about twelve feet long; a foot and a half broad in the middle; and twelve or fourteen inches deep. Upon occafion, they can carry two perfons ; one of whom is ftretched at full length in the canoe; and the other fits in the feat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is fewed gut-lkin, that can be drawn together, or opened like a purfe, with leathern thongs fitted to the outer edge. The man feats himfelf in this place; draws the fkin 3 U 2 tight oftobe tiSnt round his body over his gut frock, and brings the ends w—s—1/ of the thongs, or purfe-ltring, over the flioulder to keep it in its place. The flceves of his frock are tied tight round his wrifts; and it being clofe round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is confined by his cap, water can fcarcely penetrate either to his body, or into the canoe. If any fhould, however, infinuate itfelf, the boatman carries a piece of fpunge with which he dries it up. He ufes the double-bladed paddle, which is held with both hands in the middle, finking the water with a quick regular motion, firft on one fide, and then on the other. By this means, the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction as flraight as a line can Be drawn. In failing from Egooch- fhak to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way with the fhip, though fhe was going at the rate of feven miles an hour. Their fifhing and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under flraps fixed for the purpofe. They arc all made, in great perfection, of wood and bone ; and differ very little from thofe ufed by the Grecnlanders, as they are defcribed by Crantz. The only difference is in the point of the miflilc dart; which, in fome we faw here, is not above an inch long ; whereas Crantz fays, that thofe of the Green-landers are a foot and a half in length. Indeed, thefe darts, as well as fome others of their inftruments, are fo curious, that they deferve a particular description j but as many of them were brought away on board the mips, this can be done, at any time, if thought neceffary. Thefe people are very expert in flriking fifh, both in the fea, and in rivers. They alfo make ufe of hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are compofed of bone, and the lines of finews. The The fifties which are common to other northern feas, are found here j fuch as whales, grampuifes, porpoifes, fword-fifh, halibut, cod, falmon, trout, foals, nat-fifh; feveral other forts of fmall fifh ; and there may be many more that we had no opportunity of feeing. Halibut and falmon feem to be in the greateft plenty ; and on them the inhabitants of thefe ifles fubfift chiefly; at leaft, they were the only fort of fifh, except a few cod, which we obferved to be laid up for their winter ftore. To the North of 6o°, the fea is, in a manner, diftitute of fmall fiili of every kind j but then whales are more numerous. Seals, and that whole tribe of fea-animals, are not fo numerous as in many other feas. Nor can this be thought ftrangc, fmce there is hardly any part of the coaft, on cither continent, nor any of the iflands lying between them, that is not inhabited, and whofe inhabitants hunt thefe animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horfcs are, indeed, in prodigious numbers about the ice ; and the fea-otter is, I believe, no where found but in this fea. We fometimes faw an animal, with a head like a fcal's, that blew after the manner of whales. It was larger than a feal, and its colour was white, with fome dark fpots. Probably this was the fea-cow, or manatu I think I may venture to aflert, that fea and water fowls are neither in fuch numbers, nor in fuch variety, as with us in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. There arc fome, however, here, that I do not remember to have fecn-any where elfe ; particularly the alt a monochroa of Steller, before mentionedi and a black and white duck, which I conceive to be diiferent from the ftone-duck defcribed by Kra-fheninikoff *. All the other birds feen by us are mentioned * Hiflory of Kamtfchatka. Eng. Tranf. p. 160. 2 ly by this author, except fome that we met with near the ice ; and mod, if not all of thefe, are defcribed by Martin in his voyage to Greenland. It is a little extraordinary, that penguins, which are common in many parts of the world, fhould not be found in this fea. Albatroffes too are fo very fcarce, that I cannot help thinking that this is not their proper climate. The few land-birds that we met with arc the fame with thofe in Europe ; but there may be many others which wc had no opportunity of knowing. A very beautiful bird was ihot in the woods at Norton Sound; which, I am told, is fometimes found in England, and known by the name of chatterer. Our people met with other fmall birds there, but in no great variety and abundance ; fuch as the woodpecker, the bullfinch, the yellow finch, and a fmall bird called a tit-moufe. As our excurfions and obfervations were confined wholly to the fea-coaft, it is not to be expected, that we could know much of the animals or vegetables of the country. Except mufquitoes, there are few other infects ; nor reptiles, that I faw, but lizards. There are no deer upon Oonalafhka, or upon any other of the iflands. Nor have they any domeftic animals; not even dogs. Foxes and wcafels were the only quadrupeds we faw; but they told us, that they had hares alfo, and the marmottas mentioned by Krafhe-ninikoff*. Hence it is evident, that the fea and rivers fupply the greateft fhare of food to the inhabitants. They are alfo obliged to the fea for all the wood made ufe of for building, and other neceffary purpofes; for not a ftick grows upon any of the iflands, nor upon the adjacent coaft of the continent. * Hiftory of Kamtfchatk;i, p. 99. The The learned tell us, that the feeds of plants are, by various means, conveyed from one part of the world to another; even to iflands in the midft of great oceans, and far remote from any other land. How comes it to pafs, that there are no trees growing on this part of the continent of America, nor any of the iflands lying near it? They are certainly as well fituated for receiving feeds, by all the various ways I have heard of, as any of thofe coafls are that abound in wood. May not nature have denied to fome foil the power of raifing trees, without the afliflance of art ? As to the drift wood, upon the mores of the iflands, I have no doubt that it comes from America. For although there may be none on the neighbouring coafl, enough may grow farther up the country, which torrents in the fpring may break loofe, and bring down to the fea. And not a little may be conveyed from the woody coafls, though they lie at a greater diflance. There arc a great variety of plants at Oonalafhka; and mofl of them were in flower the latter end of June. Se* veral of them are fuch as we find in Europe, and in other parts of America, particularly in Newfoundland ; and others of them, which are alfo met with in Kamtfchatka, are eat by the natives both there and here. Of thefe, KraflieninK koif has given us defcriptions. The principal one is the jarannc, or lily root; which is about the fize of a root of gar-lick, round, made up of a number of fmall cloves, and grains like groats. When boiled, it is fomewhat like faloopj the taflc is not difagreeable, and we found means to make fome good diflies with it. It docs not feem to be in great plenty ; for we got none but what Ifmyloff gave us. We mufl reckon amongfl: the food of the natives, fome other wild roots; the flalk of a plant refembling. angelica;, and and berries of fevcral different forts ; fuch as bramble berries ; cranberries; hurtle-berries ; heath-berries ; a fmall red berry, which, in Newfoundland, is called partridge-berry ; and another brown berry, unknown to us. This has fomewhat of the tafle of a floe, but is unlike it in every other refpect. It is very aftringent, if eaten in any quantity. Brandy might be diflilled from it. Captain Clerke attempted to preferve fome; but they fermented, and became as flrong as if they had been fleeped in fpirits. There were a few other plants, which we found fervice-able, but are not made ufe of by either Ruflians or natives. Such as wild purflain ; pea-tops; a kind of fcurvy-grafs; creffes, and fome others. All thefe, we found very palatable, dreired either in foups or in fallads. On the low ground, and in the vallies, is plenty of grafs, which grows very thick, and to a great length. I am of opinion, that cattle might fubfifl at Oonalafhka all the year round, without being houfed. And the foil, in many places, feemed capable of producing grain, roots, and vegetables. But, at prefent, the Ruffian traders, and the natives, feem fatisfied with what nature brings forth. Native fulphur was feen amongfl the inhabitants of the ifland; hut I had no opportunity of learning where they got it. We found alfo ochre ; a flone that gives a purple colour; and another that gives a very good green. It may be doubted, whether this laft is known. In its natural flate, it is of a greyidi green colour, coarfe and heavy. It eafily dilfolvcs in oil; but when put into water, it entirely lofes its properties. It feemed to be fcarce in Oonalafhka; but we were told, that it was in greater plenty on the ifland Oonemak. As to the ftones about the fhore and hills, I faw nothing in them that was uncommon, The The people of Oonalafhka bury their dead on the fum-mits of hills, and raife a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country, one of the natives, who attended me, pointed out feveral of thefe receptacles of the dead. There was one of them, by the fide of the road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raifed a heap of Hones. It was obferved, that every one who paffed it, added one to it. I faw in the country feveral flone hillocks, that feemed to have been raifed by art. Many of them were apparently of great antiquity. What their notions arc of the Deity, and of a future flate, I know not. I am equally unacquainted with their diver- fions; nothing having been feen that could give us an in-fight into cither. They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongfl each other; and always behaved with great civility to us. The Ruffians told us, that they never had any connections with their women, becaufe they were not Chriflians. Our people were not fo fcrupulous ; and fome of them had reafon to repent that the females [of Oonalafhka encouraged their ad-dreffes without any referve; for their health fullered by a dif-tcmper that is not unknown here. The natives of this ifland are alfo fubject to the cancer, or a complaint like it, which thofe whom it attacks, are very careful to conceal. They do not feem to be long-lived. I no where faw a perfon, man or woman, whom I could fuppofe to be fixty years of age; and but very few who appeared to be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means of fhortcning their days. I have frequently had occafion to mention, from the time of our arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably the natives, on this North Wefl fide of America, refemble the Vol. II, 3 X Grecnlanders i778' Grecnlanders and Efquimaux, in various particulars of per- >ftober. „ 1 i i tt -v-» fon, drefs, weapons, canoes, and the like. However, I was much lefs firuck with this, than with the affinity which we found fubfifting between the dialects of the Greenlanders and Efquimaux, and thofe of Norton's Sound and Oonalafhka. This will appear from a table of correfponding words, which I put together, and will be inferted in the courfe of this work*. It muff be obferved, however, with regard to the words which we collected on this fide of America, that too much ftrefs is not to be laid upon their being accurately reprefented; for, after Mr. Anderfon's death, we had few who took much pains about fuch matters; and I have frequently found, tliat tire fame words written down by two or more perfons, from the mouth of the fame native, on being compared together, differed not a little. But ftill, enough is certain, to warrant this judgment, that there is great reafon to believe, that all thefe nations are of the fame-extraction ; and if fo, there can be little doubt of there being a Northern communication of fome fort, by fea, between this Weft fide of America and the Eaft fide, through Baffin's Bay; which communication, however, may be effectually fhut up againft fhips, by ice, and other impediments. Such, at leaft, was my opinion at this time. I fhall now quit thefe Northern regions, with a few particulars relative to the tides and currents upon the coaft, and an account of the agronomical obfervations made by us in Samganoodha Harbour. The tide is no where confiderable but in the great riverf. * It will be found, amongft other vocabularies, at the end of the third volume.. jt Cook's River. \ • .* - The The flood comes from the South or South Eafl, every *778-where following the direction of the coafl to the North Weflward, Between Norton Sound and Cape Prince of Wales, we found a current fetting to the North Wefl, particularly off the Cape, and within Sledge Ifland. But this current extended only a little way from the coafl; nor was it either confident or uniform. To the North of Cape Prince of Wales, we found neither tide nor current, either on the American or on the Afiatic coafl, though feveral times looked for. This gave rife to an opinion entertained by fome on board our fhips, that the two coafls were connected, either by land or by ice; which opinion received fome ffrength, by our never having any hollow waves from the North, and by our feeing ice almofl the whole way acrofs. The following are the refults of the feveral obfervations made afhore, during our flay in the harbour of Sam> ganoodha. The latitude, by the mean of feveral obferved meridian altitudes of the fun - 53* 5' o" rBy the mean of twenty fets of lunar obfervations, with the^ 1930 47' 45" fun Eafl of the moon The longitude By the mean of fourteen fets,") with the fun and flars Weflj> 1030 n' 45" of the moon j The mean of thefe - - 1930 29' 45" The longitude affumed - 1930 30' o" By the mean of equal altitudes of the fun, taken on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 2ifl, the time-keeper was found to be lofing 3X2 on J24 AVOYAGETO 1778. on mean time 8", 8 each day ; and, on October, • . I-i-1 the laft of thefe days, was too flow for mean time i3h 46" 43', 98. Hence the time-keeper mufl have been too flow, on the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13h 44" 26', 62 j and the longitude, by Greenwich rate, will be 13" 23™ 53', 8 - 2000 58' 27" By King George's (or Nootka) Sound rate i2h 56™ 40% 4 1940 io' 6" The 30th of June, the time-keeper, by the fame rate, gave - - 1930 12' o" The error of the time-keeper, at that time, was - - - °° 18' o"Weft. At this time, its error was 0* 39' 54" Eafl. The error of the time-keeper, between our leaving Samganoodha, and our return to it again, was 0* 57' 54" On the iath of October, the variation t A. M. 20° if a"}-, 0 . „ „ . c l tr L ^ „ / „ f Mean 19° 59' 15 Eaft. By the mean of three compafles, L P. M. 19° 41 27 } j j , t Unmarked end ? . . m _ t 68° 45' ? Face C 690 30' Dip of the needle } ^ J Dipping face Eaft j ^ ^ J Wfift j ^ j?, Mean of the dip of the North end of the needle 690 23' 30". CHAP, CHAP. XII. Departure from Oo7talafkay and future Views,—The J fand Amogbta.—Situation of a remarkable Rock.—The Strait between Oonalafljka a?id Oonella repajfed.—Progrefs t0' the South. — Melancholy Accident on board the Difcovery.—Mowee, one of the Sandwich Ifands, difcovered. —Intercourfe with the Natives.—Vifet from Terreeoboo. — Another If and, called Owbyhee, difcovered.—The Ships ply to Windward to get round it.—An Eclipfe of the Moon obferved. — The Crew refufe to drink Sugar-cane Beer. — Cordage deficient in Strength.—Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee,—The Refolution gets to Windward of the If and.—Her Progrefs down the South Eaf Coaf.—Views of the Country, and Vifts from the Natives.—The Difcovery joins.—Slow Progrefs Weflward.—Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr. Bligh.—Vaf Concourfe of the Natives. — The Ships anchor in the Bay. i N the morning of Monday the 26th, we put to fea from 177b oaob( Samganoodha Harbour; and, as the wind was Southerly, Hood away to the Weftward. Monday My intention was now to proceed to Sandwich Iflands, there to fpend a few of the winter months, in cafe we mould meet with the necefTary refrefhments, and then to direct our courfe to Kamtfchatka, fo as to endeavour to be then* 526 A VOYAGE "TO 1778. there by the middle of May, the enfuino; fummcr. In con- Oftober. J J 0 v—»—«j fcquence of this refolution, I gave Captain Clerke orders how to proceed, in cafe of feparation; appointing Sandwich Illands for the firft place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropaulowfka, in Kamtfchatka, for the fecond. Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered to the South Eafl and Eafl South Eafl, which, by the evening, carried us as far as the Weflern part of Oonalafhka> where we got the wind at South. With this we ftretched to Tucfdayz;. the Weftward, till feven o'clock the next morning, when wc wore, and flood to the Eafl. The wind, by this time, had increafed in fuch a manner as to reduce us to our three courfes. It blew in very heavy fqualls, attended with rain, hail, and fnow. Wednef,28. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the ifland of Oonalafhka bore South Eaft, four leagues diflant. We then wore and flood to the Weftward. The ftrength of the gale was now over, and toward evening, the little wind that blew infenfibly veered round to the Fall, where it continued but a fhort time before it got to North Eaft, and increafed to a very hard gale with rain. I fleered firft to the Southward; and as the wind inclined to the North and North Wefl, I fleered more Weflerly. Thurfday29. On the 29th, at half paft fix in the morning, we faw land extending from Eaft by South to South by Wefl, fuppofed to be the ifland Amoghta. At eight, finding that we could not weather the ifland, as the wind had now veered to the Weflward, I gave over plying, and bore away for Oonalafhka, with a view of going to the Northward and Eafl-ward of that ifland, not daring to attempt a paffage to the South Eafl of it, in fo hard a gale of wind. At the time 7 we we bore away, the land extended from Faff by South half >77? South to South South Weft, four leagues diftant. The Ion- \-„— anQl m tne longitude of IQl* 2 > and hath no place in the Ruffian mapf. We mufl have paffed very near it in the night. We could judge of its flecpnefs from this cir-cumftance, that the fea, which now run very high, broke no where but againft it. At three in the afternoon, after getting a fight of Oonalafhka, we fhorrened fail, and hauled the wind, not having time to get through the paffage before night. At day-break the next morning, we bore away Frida under courfes, and clofe-reefed topfails, having a very hard gale at Weft North Weft, with heavy fqualls, attended with fnow. At noon, we were in the middle of the flrait, be- * On the chart of Krenitzcn's and LevamefPs voyage, in 1768 and 1769, which' we find in Mr. Coxe's book, p. 251. amifland called Amuckta, is laid down, not very far from the place afligned to Amoghta by Captain Cook. f Though this rock had no place in the Ruffian map produced by Ifmyloff, it has a place in the chart of Krenitzen's and Levafheff's voyage, above referred to. That chart alfo agrees with Captain Cook's, as to the general pofition of this group of iflands. The fingularly indented fliores of the ifland of Oonalafhka are reprefented in both charts much alike. Thefe circumltances arc worth attending to, as the more modern Ruffian maps of this Archipelago are fo wonderfully erroneous. tweciv oSL tween Oonalafhka, and Oonella, the harbour of Samga- *—u-* noodha bearing South South Eafl, one league diflant. At three in the afternoon, being through the flrait, and clear of the ifles, Cape Providence bearing Wefl South Wefl, two or three leagues dillant, wTe fleered to the Southward, under double reefed top-fails and courfes, with the wind at Wefl North Wefl, a flrong gale, and fair weather. November. On Monday, the 2d of November, the wind veered to the .Monday 2. Southward •, and, before night, blew a violent fiorm, which obliged us to bring to. The Difcovery fired fevcral guns, which we anfwered; but without knowing on what occafion they were fired. At eight o'clock, we lofl fight of her, and did not fee her again till eigUt the next morning. At ten, fhe joined us; and, as the height of the gale was now over, and the wind had veered back to Wefl North Wefl, wc made fail, and refumcd our courfe to the Southward. i«riday6. The 6ih, in the evening, being in the latitude of 420 12', and in the longitude of 2010 26', the variation was 170 15' Saturday 7. £aftt The next morning, our latitude being 41° 20', and our longitude 2020, a fliag, or cormorant, new feveral times round the fhip. As thefe birds are fcldom, if ever, known to fly far out of dght of land, I judged that fome was not far diflant. However, we could fee none. In the afternoon, there being but little wind, Captain Gierke came on board, and informed me of a melancholy accident that happened on board his fhip, the fecond night after we left Samga-noodha. The main tack gave way, killed one man, and wounded the boatfwain, and two or three more. In addition to this misfortune, I now learned, that, on the evening of the 3d, his fails and rigging received confiderable da-% mage* mage; and that the guns which he fired were the fignal to bring to. 1778. November. On the Sth, the wind was at North ; a gentle breeze, with Sunday 8. clear weather. On the 9th, in the latitude of 39!°, we had Monday 9. 'eight hours calm. This was fuccccded by the wind from the South, attended with fair weather. Availing ourfelves of this, as many of our people as could handle a needle, were fet to work to repair the fails; and the carpenters were employed to put the boats in order. On the 12th at noon, being then in the latitude of 3S0 14' Thurfdayi*. and in the longitude of 2060 17', the wind returned back to the Northward; and, on the 15th, in the latitude of 330 30', Sunday 15. it veered to the Eafl. At this time, we faw a tropic bird, and a dolphin ; the firfl that we had obferved during the paffage. On the 17th, the wind veered to the Southward, where it Tuefday 17. continued till the afternoon of the 19th, when a fquall of wind and rain brought it at once round by the Wefl to the North. This was in the latitude of 320 26', and in the longitude of 2070 30'. The wind prefently increafed to a very flrong gale, attended with rain, fo as to bring us under double reefed top-fails. In lowering down the main top-fail to reef it, the wind tore it quite out of the foot rope ; and it was fplit in feveral other parts. This fail had only been brought to the yard the day before, after having had a repair. The next morning, we got another top-fail to the yard. This gale w«4nef. is. proved to be the forerunner of the trade-wind, which in latitude 2 50 veered to Eafl, and Eafl South Eafl. I continued to fleer to the Southward, till day-light in the morning of the 25 th, at which time we were in the latitude w«a*«f. - >• Vol. II. 3 Y of i778- of ^0° cc'. I now fpread the fliips, and fleered to the Wed. ovember. r 1 m--• In the evening, we joined j and at midnight brought to. Thurfday26. At day-break, next morning, land was feen extending from South South Eaft to Weft. We made fail, and flood for it. At eight, it extended from South Eafl half South, to Weft; the neareft part two leagues diftant. It was fuppofed that we faw the extent of the land to the Eafl, but not to the Wed. We were now fatisfied, that the group of the Sandwich Iflands had been only imperfectly difcovered ; as thofe of them which we had vifited in our progrefs Northward, all lie to the leeward of our prefent ftation. In the country was an elevated faddle hill, whofe fummit appeared above the clouds. From this hill, the land fell in a gentle flope, and terminated in a fleep rocky coafl, againft which the fea broke in a dreadful furf. Finding that we could not weather the ifland, I bore up, and ranged along the coaft to the Weftward. It was not long before we faw people on feveral parts of the fhore, and fome houfes and plantations. The country feemed to be both well wooded and watered ; and running ftrcams were feen falling into the fea in various places. As it was of the laft importance to procure a fupply of provifions at thefe iflands; and experience having taught me that I could have no chance to fuccced in this, if a free trade with the natives were to be allowed ; that is, if it were left to every man's difcretion to trade for what he pleafed, and in the manner he pleafed ; for this fubftantial reafon, I now published an order, prohibiting all perfons from trading, except fuch as fhould be appointed by me and Captain Clerke ; and even thefe were enjoined to trade only for provifions and rcfrefhmcnts. Women were alfo forbidden to be admitted Sandwich isl. / v us "v»«r "/'^' .\:/\/w»/•,uon-Kt; »■/„■/, ///<'• niiimus iW //:/ //„„■/;,, „y n,.,.-ir \'u\v /rout /Ar ft/ . I X'ww /nuti /Ar h> "/ h'OAIIOO View "/HIuikI .Itooi f>/tr„ /A, Peaked Hill /w,;r . i..'|./,'„■: ,/<; wvii tf Q&MMMOWm mm fivm /A', ship „, .y ii. ///,,,/, ,/,/: November, admitted into the fliips, except under certain rcftrietions. . *778; But the evil I meant to prevent, by this regulation, I foon found, had already got amongfl them. At noon, the coafl extended from South 81* Eafl, to North 56° Wefl; a low flat, like an iflhmus, bore South 420 Well j the neareft fhore three or four miles diftant; the latitude was 20^59'; and the longitude 2o3°5o;. Seeing fome canoes coming off to us, I brought to. As foon as they got along fide, many of the people, who conducted them, came into the fhip, without the leaft hefitation. We found them to be of the fame nation with the inhabitants of the iflands more to leeward, which we had already vifited; and, if we did not millake them, they knew of our having been there. Indeed, it rather appeared too evident; for thefe people had got amongfl them the venereal diftemper; and, as yet, I knew of no other way of its reaching them, but by an intercourfe with their neighbours fince our leaving them. Wc got from our vifiters a quantity of cuttle-fifh, for nails and pieces of iron. They brought very little fruit and roots; but told us that they had plenty of them on their ifland, as alio hogs and fowls. In the evening, the horizon being clear to the Weftward, we judged the Wefternmoft land in fight to be an ifland, feparated from that off which we now were. Having no doubt that the people would return to the fhips next day, with the produce of their country, I kept plying off all night, and in the morning ftood clofe in fhore. Friday 27. At firfl, only a few of the natives vilitcd us; but, toward noon, wc had the company of a good many, who brought with them bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro, or eddy roots, a few plantains, and fmall pigs; all of which they exchanged for nails and iron tools. Indeed, wc had nothing elfe to give 3 Y 2 them. 53* A VOYAGE TO '778- them, We continued trading with them till four o'clock November. . , v. —v- „> in tne afternoon, when, having difpofed or all their cargoes, and not fceming inclined to fetch more, we made fail, and flood off fhore. While we were lying to, though the wind blew frefli, I obferved that the fliips drifted to the Eaft. Confequently, there mufl have been a current fctting in that direction. This encouraged me to ply to windward, with a view to get round the Eafl end of the ifland, and fo have the Monday 3o. whole lee-fide before us. In the afternoon of the 30th, being off the North Eafl end of the ifland, feveral canoes came off to the fliips. Mofl of thefe belonged to a Chief named Terrceoboo, who came in one of ui. lie made me a prefent of two or three fmall pigs; and we got, by barter, from the other people, a little fruit. After a flay of about two hours, they all left us, except fix or eight of their company, who chofe to remain on board. .A double failing canoe came, foon after, to attend upon them ; which we towed aflern all night. In the evening, wc difcovered another ifland to windward, which the natives call Oivhyhee. The name of that, off which wc had been for fome days, we were alfo told, is Moivec December. On the i ft of December, at eight in the morning, Owhy-Tiufdiy. i. jlce extcmiC(i from South 22° Eafl, to South 12° Wefl; and Mowee from North 410 to North 83* Wefl. Finding that we could fetch Owhyhee, I flood for it; and our vifiters from Mowee not choofing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe, and went afhore. At feven in the evening, we wer^ clofe up with the North fide of Owhyhee where we fpent the ni^ht, Handing off and on. In Th the morning of the 2d, we were furprized to fee the ftimmits of the mountains on Owhyhee covered with -—-—/ Wedncf. 2. fnow. They did not appear to be of any extraordinary height; and yet, in fome places, the fnow feemed to be of a confiderable depth, and to have lain there fome time. As wc drew near the fhore, fome of the natives came off to us. They were a little fhy at firfl; but we foon enticed fome of them on board ; and at lafl prevailed upon them to return to the ifland, and bring off what we wanted. Soon after thefe reached the fhore, we had company enough; and few coming empty-handed, we got a tolerable fupply of fmall pigs, fruit, and roots. We continued trading with them till fix in the evening ; when we made fail, and flood off, with a view of plying to windward round the ifland. In the evening of the 4th, we obferved an eclipfe of the Friday 4. moon. Mr. Iving made ufe of a night-telefcope, a circular aperture being placed at the object end, about one-third of the fize of the common aperture. I obferved with the tele-fcopc of one of Ramfden's fextants; which, I think, anfwers this purpofe as well as any other. The following times are the means, as obferved by us both. Gh 3' 25" beginning of the eclipfe ) , ( 2040 40' 45" 8h 27' 25" end of the eclipfe Ji-ongmiocj ^0 ^ Mean - -* 204° 35' of' The penumbra was vhible, at leaft ten minutes before the beginning, and after the end of the eclipfe. I meafured the unechpfed part of the moon, with one of Ramfden's fextants, fevcral times before, at, and after the middle of the eclipfe; but did not get the time of the middle fo near as might have been effected by this method. Indeed thefe obfervations were c34 A VOYAGE TO '773. December were made only as an experiment, without aiming at much nicety. I alio meafured moftly one way; whereas i ought to have brought alternately the reflected and direct images to contrary fides, with refpect to each other; reading the numbers off the quadrant, in one cafe, to the left of the beginning of the divifions; and, in the other cafe, to the right hand of the fame. It is evident, that half thefum of thefe two numbers muft be the true mcafurement, independent of the error of the quadrant; and this is the method that I would recommend. But I am well allured, that it might have been obferved much nearer; and that this method may be ufeful when neither the beginning nor end of an eclipfe can be obferved, which may often happen. Immediately after the eclipfe was over, we obferved the diftance of each limb of the moon from Pollux and Arktis\ the one being to the Eaft, and the other to the Weft. An opportunity to obferve, under all thefe circumftanccs, fcldom happens ; but when it does, it ought not to be omitted ; as, in this cafe, the local errors to which thefe obfervations are liable, deftroy each other; which, in all other cafes, would require the obfervations of a whole moon. The following are the remits of thefe obfervations; TIT flf 'i \AricllS " q04'22' O7"? Q Myfelf with \ n > . , ' /mean 2-40 21' 5' J (Pollux - 204 30 4' 3 0 \Arictis - 2Ql° 27' 45" 1 o nl Mr. King with] „ „ \ , [mean 2040 18' 20" to I Pollux - 204 9 13 J J Mean of the two means - 2040 19' 47" The time-keeper, at 4* 30', to which time all ) , > 204 04 45 the lunar obfervations are reduced - i The The current which I have mentioned, as fetting to the _ l77^ L} December. Eaftward, had now ecafed ; for we gained but little by ply- »-(—j ing. On the 6th, in the evening, being about five leagues Sunday & farther up the coafl, and near the fhore, wc had fome traffic with the natives. But, as it had furnifhed only a trifling fupply, I flood in again the next morning, when we had a Monday 7. confiderable number of vifners; and we lay to, trading with them till two in the afternoon. By that time, wc had procured pork, fruit, and roots, fufficient for four or five days. We then made fail, and continued to ply to windward. Having procured a quantity of fugar cane; and having, upon a trial, made but a few days before, found that a flrong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, 1 ordered fome more to be brewed, for our general ufe. But when the cafk was now broached, not one of my crew would even fo much as taflc it. As I had no motive in preparing this beverage, but to fave our fpirit for a colder climate, I gave myfelf no trouble, either by exerting authority, or by having rccourfe to perfuafion, to prevail upon them to drink it; knowing that there was no danger of the fcurvy, fo long as we could get a plentiful fupply of other vegetables. But, that I might not be difappointed in my views, I gave orders that no grog fhould be fcrved in either fhip. I myfelf, and the officers, continued to make ufe of this fugar-cane beer, whenever we could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of which we had fome on board, improved it much. It has the taflc of new malt beer; and I believe no one will doubt of its being very wholefome. And yet my inconfiderate crew alleged that it was injurious to their health. They jr36 A V O Y A G E T O 1773. They had no better reafon to fupport a refolution, which December, . , v_-^—^ they took on our far ft arrival in King George's Sound, not to drink the fpruce-beer made there. Bur, whether from a conhderation that it was not the firft time of their being required to ufe that liquor, or from fome other reafon, they did not attempt to carry their purpofe into actual execution ; and I had never heard of it till now, when they renewed their ignorant oppolition to my beft endeavours to ferve them. Every innovation whatever, on board a fhip, though ever fo much to the advantage of feamen, is fure to meet with their higheft difapprobation. Both portable foup, and four krout were, at firft, condemned as fluff unfit for human beings. Few commanders have introduced into their fliips more novelties, as ufeful varieties of food and drink, than I have done. Indeed few commanders have had the fame opportunities of trying fuch experiments, or been driven to the fame neccflity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great meafure, owing to various little deviations from eftablifhed practice, that I have been able to preferve my people, generally fpeaking, from that dreadful diftempcr, the fcurvy, which has perhaps deftroyed more of our failors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. 13. I kept at fome diftance from the coaft, till the 13th, when I flood in again, fix leagues farther to windward than wc had as yet reached; and, after having fome trade with the natives who vifited us, returned to fea. I fhould have got near j\:cf.iny i5. the fhore again on the 15th, for a fupply of fruit or roots, but the wind happening to be at South Eaft by South, and South South Eaft, 1 thought this a good time to ftretch to the Eaftward, in order to get round, or, at leaft, to get a fight of the South Fall end of the ifland. The wind conti- 2 nucd lined at South Eafl: by South, moft part of the 16th. It was *?78,- J * December. variable between South and Eaft on the 17th; and on the 1-.-' 18th, it was continually veering from one quarter to ano- ^JflByJ6, thcr; blowing, fometimes, in hard fqualls; and, at other Friday 18. times, calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the afternoon, we had the wind Wefterly for a few hours; but in the evening it fhifted to Eaft by South, and we ftood to the Southward, clofe hauled, under an eafy fail, as the Difcovery was at fome diftance aftern. At this time the South Eaft point of the ifland bore South Weft by South, about five leagues diftant; and I made no doubt that I fhould be able to weather it. But at one o'clock, next morning, it fell Saturday 19. calm, and we were left to the mercy of a North Eafterly fwell, which impelled us fafl toward the land ; fo that, long before day-break, we faw lights upon the fhore, which was not more than a league diftant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At three o'clock, the calm was fucceeded by a breeze from the South Eaft by Eaft, blowing in fqualls, with rain. We ftood to the North Eaft, thinking it the belt tack to clear the coaft; but, if it had been day-light, we fhould have chofen the other. At day break, the coaft was feen extending from North by Weft, to South Weft by Weft; a dreadful furf breaking upon the fhore, which was not more than half a league diftant. It was evident, that wc had been in the moft imminent danger. Nor were we yet in fafety, the wind veering more Eafterly; fo that, for fome time, we did but juft keep our diftance from the coaft. What made our fituation more alarming, was the leach-rope of the main top-fail giving way ; which was the occafion of the fail's being rent in two; and the two top-gallant fails gave way in the fame manner, though not half worn out. By taking a fa- Vol. II. 3 Z vourable 1778. vourablc opportunity, we foon got others to the yards ; and December. * * 0 ' ^—then we left the land aflern. The Difcovery, by being at fome diftance to the North, was never near the land; nor did we fee her till eight o'clock. On this occafion, I cannot help obferving, that I have always found, that the bolt-ropes to our fails have not been of fufTicient ftrength or fubflance. This, at different times, has been the fourcc of infinite trouble and vexation; and of much expence of canvas, ruined by their giving way. I wifli alfo, that I did not think there is room for remarking, that the cordage and canvas, and indeed all the other flores made ufe of in the navy, are not of equal goodnefs with thofe, in general, ufed in the merchant fervice. It feems to be a very prevalent opinion, amongfl naval officers of all ranks, that the king's flores are better than any others, .and that no fhips are fo well fitted out as thofe of the navy. Undoubtedly they are in the right, as to the quantity, but, I fear, not as to the quality of the flores. This, indeed, is feldom tried ; for things are generally condemned, or converted to fome other ufe, by fuch time as they are half worn out. It is only on fuch voyages as ours, that we have an opportunity of making the trial; as our fituation makes it neceffary to wear every thing to the very utmofl *. * Captain Cook may, in part, be right in his companion of fome cordage ufed in thc King's fervice, with what is ufed in that of the merchants ; efpecially in time of war, when part of the cordage wanted in the navy is, from neceflity, made by con-trad!. But it is well known, that there is no better cordage than what is made in the King's yards. This explanation of the preceding paragraph has been fubjoined, on the authority of a naval officer of diftinguiflied rank, and great profeflional ability, who has, at the fame time, recommended it as a neceflary precaution, that fliips fitted out on voyages of difcovery, fhould be furnifhed with no cordage but what is made in the King's yards ; and, indeed, that every article of their ftore, December. , . —v—which we had aimed at with fo much perfeverance. The Difcovery, however, was not yet to be feen. But the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded, that it would not be long before fhe joined us. I therefore kept cruizing off this South Eafl point of the ifland, which lies in the latitude of i9°34', and in the longitude of 205° 6', till I was fatisfied that Captain Clerke could not join me here. I now conjectured, that he had not been able to weather the North Eafl part of the iiland, and had gone to leeward in order to meet mc that way. As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, Monday 28. no canoes, except one, came off to us till the 28th; when wc were vifited by a dozen or fourteen. The people who conducted them, brought, as ufual, the produce of the ifland. I was very forry that they had taken the trouble to come fo far. For we could not trade with them, our old flock not being, as yet, confumed ; and we had found, by late experience, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots preferved from putrefaction, many days. However, I intended not to leave this part of the iiland before I got a fupply; as it would not be eafy to return to it again, in cafe it fhould be found ncccfTary. Wedncf. 30. We began to be in want on the 30th; and I would have flood in near the fhore, but was prevented by a calm ; but a breeze fpringing up, at midnight, from South and South Weft, we were enabled to fland in for the land at day-break. Thurfday3i. At ten o'clock in the morning, wc were met by the iiland -ers with fruit and roots; but, in all the canoes, were only 7 three three fmall pigs. Our not having bought thofe which had Dt!c7e7n^er been lately brought off, may be fuppofed to be the reafon of *-w- this very fcanty fupply. We brought to, for the purpofes of trade; but, foon after, our marketing was interrupted by a very hard rain ; and, befides, we were rather too far from the more. Nor durfl I go nearer; fori could not depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a moment; the fwell alfo being high, and fetting obliquely upon the fhore, againft which it broke in a frightful ftirf. In the evening the weather mended; the night was clear, and it was fpent in making fhort boards. Before day-break, the atmofphere was again loaded with i779- n 1 • January heavy clouds; and the new year was ufnered in with very Friday i hard rain, which continued, at intervals, till paft ten o'clock. The wind was Southerly; a light breeze, with fome calms. When the rain ceafed the fky cleared, and the breeze frefh -ened. Being, at this time, about five miles from the land, feveral canoes arrived with fruit and roots; and, at laft, fome hogs were brought off. We lay to, trading with them till three o'clock in the afternoon ; when, having a tolerable fupply, we made fail, with a view of proceeding to the North Weft, or lee-fide of the iiland, to look for the Difcovery. It was neceffary, however, the wind being at South, to ftretch firft to the Eaftward, till midnight, when the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. For feveral days paft, both wind and weather had been exceedingly unfettled ; and there fell a great deal of rain. The three following days were fpent in running down Saturday s the South Eaft fide of the ifland. For, during the nights wc Sunday3- i • , • Monday 4. flood off and on; and part of each day, was employed in lying- |2?«r' to' *n ora