3o H\ 32 3* ^* Palmyra I_— 4J3 pimiiuii!. Mofnl 5 4\7 4\B Sketch of the route acrofs the GREAT DESERT of ARABIA from I ATI C 11BA by AH ,EPPp to BASSORA ] Vv COL' J AM E S C A P P E R . iiiiiiiiiiiiinir 37 iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii A B J 3.4 32 11 ^ V,/. *r Gorno X 'M lenyit&rEtist from (rnrmvu/i |lll!lllll!l!UIIII 4 OBSERVATIONS ON THE PASSAGE to INDIA, Through EGYPT. also By vienna through constantinople t o ALEPPO, and from thence By BAGDAD, and directly acrofs the Great Desert, to BASSORA. with Occafional Remarks on the adjacent Countries., An Account of the different Stages, And Sketches of the feveral Routes on four Copper Plates. By JAMES CAPPER, Efq; hjec dum incipias, gravia sunt, pumque ignores : ubi cognoris, facilia. Terence. The Third Edition, with Alterations and Additions. LONDON: Printed for W. Faden, Geographer to the KING, Charing Croft; j. Robiow, in New Bend Street; and R. Sewell, in Qornkill. MDCCLXXXV. EDWARD COTSFORD, Efq; M. P. THIS WORK IS INSCRIBED, AS A SMALL TRIBUTE O F RESPECT AND ESTEEM, AND HUMBLE SERVANT, JAMES CAPPER, New Bond Street, March ift, 1785. ADVERTISEMENT. The principal inducement with the Author for publijhing the Jirji edition of this work, he does not fcruple to acknowledge was to fub-mit to Government, TheEaJl-India Company, and The Public, his reafons for wijhing to fee revived a dormant plan of fending difpatches to and from India, by the Red Sea: whether his humble remonjlrances have been attended to fo as to promote the profecution of this plan may hereafter appear; but befdes this de-fir able obje£lt he had alfo in view thepleafure of affording ufeful information to any of his friends, who might have occafion to pafs to and from Europe, by the great defert and in this part of his defign he is happy to find, he has in many infiances fucceeded. The work however in its original form, containing only injlruflions for pajjing through France or Italy to the Levant, being limited and imperfefi he has been conjlantly endeavouring to procure an account of the rout through Vienna, and Conjlantinople, to Aleppo by land; which to many travellers may be far more agreeable, than going any part of the way by fea* After advertise m e n t. After much enquiry he has at length beenfavoured with two journals kept by Mr. Baldwin lately agent to the Eajl-India Company at Cairo, who went at different times from Conftantinople to Vienna, and alfo from Confianiinople to Aleppo *. This gentleman *s exteufive knowledge of the Oriental languages, and his long refulence among the Turks, and Arabs, will no doubt give great weight to his offerva-tions on their manners, and cufioms. The reader will alfo find in thefe additional pages, many curious remarks and amufing anecdotes; which ferve to characterize the different nations through which Mr, Baldwin paffed: and alfo many uff/I geographical ob-fervations on clajjic ground, once well inhabited, and reported to as thefeat of the arts andfcienccs; but which for many ages pafi, has been little frequented by Europeans. The journals are pubiijhed nearly in Mr. Baldwin's own words; they were written in hafie, to convey information to other travellers, and with no idea of preferring a finijhed piece of compofition to the public—Ornari, res ipia negat, con ten ta do-ceri. * When the late rupture broke out with France, this gentleman who was then at Cairo, lent the earlieft intelligence of it to India ; which enabled the government at Madras to take Pondi-chcrry before reinforcements could arrive from Europe, cr the ifland of Mauritius. A proof at once of his merit, and of the advantage of being able to lend difpatches by that rout. To ADVERTISE M E N T. To the Jketches in the former editions of this work, dre added two others, the one, the facade of an ancient monument found in Natolia; the other, a chart of the Red Sea. Much pains have been taken to decipher the infcription jlill remaining on the building, but in vain; however it is generally Juppofed to be a mixture oj Greek and Phoenician characters. From the neceffaryfvzc of the Chart of the Red Sea, little more can be expected, than a general knowledge of the relative fituation of the places referred to in the work; and thofe are laid down with all the accuracy poffi-ble, in a chart on fo fmall afcale. & K feud PREFACE, A HE indulgent reception the fir ft edition of this work met with, makes me lament that I am called upon for a fecond, before I have leifure to execute it in a manner more defefving the at> tention of the public: but as it is not unlikely many travellers may in the courfe of this year have occafion to paft to and from India by land, and be de-firous of profiting by theft inftru&ions, B I have I have therefore printed off a few copies with fome typographical and other ne-cefiary corrections; and having before touched but flightly on the neceffity of opening a communication with India by the Red Sea, I mall in this- preface enter more minutely into the confederation of that important fubjeel:. Our extenfive and valuable pofleffions in the Eaft Indies have long excited the envy of all the other European nations \ nor is it in the leaft improbable that the maritime powers of France, Spain, and Holland, were prompted to take an active part againft us in the late unhappy war, not only with a view to deprive lis of our Colonies in the Weir, but. alfo if poffible, to tear from us and divide between them, our pofleffions in the Eaft : and that even the EmperoFj and Ruffia, Denmark, and Sweden, remained mained neuter, in hopes fome time or other of at leaft fliaring with us the profits of that beneficial trade. The Emperor principally for this purpofe has already opened the Port of Triefte, and is endeavouring to revive the long loft trade of the different cities of the Netherlands. RufTia. has obtained free egrefs into the Black Sea, in order to divert into its old channel, that branch of it that was carried on by the Gulph of Perfia. Denmark may look forward towards extending their preient pofleffions in that part of the world; and Sweden probably hopes to come in for a (bare of - the fpoils, and to obtain fome eftablifhment in India by the means of their old allies the French. Had not fome ideas of this nature prevailed, vvc fhould not during the late war have fought againft fuch an hoft of enemies, B z nor ; 6 t iv 3 nor when threatened with deftruciioix have been deferted by our beft friends. The fame caufes very likely gave rife to, and may continue to keep alive the unnatural connection between the court of Vcrfailles, and the republican party in Holland. The French, when they are rich enough to begin another conteft with us, are rnoft undoubtedly determined to make their attack in the Eaft; and as they have no port nearer to the Peninfula of India, than theifland of Mauritius, they have formed a clofe connection with the Dutch, that they may at once derive aid from the co-operation of their joint forces, and enjoy the benefit of Trincomaley, one of the fafeft harbours in the world; and by far the beft fituated of any in India, either for covering their own fettlements in the Pay of Bengal, or for annoying ours. Nor Nor is it furprizing that the Dutch mould readily join in this plan, for in cafe of a rupture with them, we might otherwife, by means of a fuperior fleet, in a very few weeks drive them off the peninfula of India ; and alfo obtain pof-. feflion of the ifland of Ceylon, by far the moft precious jewel belonging to the republic in the Eaft, During the late war we frequently in India had no intelligence from England for eight or nine months; nor did we hear of the rupture with Spain until upwards of eleven months after the commencement of hoftilities in Europe. The Spaniards fortunately for us, being flow in their deliberations, and by no means quick in their operations, took no advantage of our want of information : but fhould a war break out with France and Holland, which for the reafofls reafons I have already mentioned appears to me by no means improbable, we may find all our fettlements inverted before we know they are in danger of being attacked, and hear of their being totally loft, before we are able to relieve them. The means by which we may prevent our enemies anticipating us in fending advices to India, arc in fome meafure already pointed out in the introduction to this work; but fince the publication of the former edition, an occurrence has happened that will greatly facilitate the plan therein propofed of applying for a revocation of the Turkifh edict, and which like wife ought to induce thein to let our couriers pafs unmolefted through Egypt. The occurrence to which I allude is, the treaty of peace lately concluded between the Ruffians and the Turks; by which which the former have obtained leave in future to pafs the Dardanelles, and to enjoy the free navigation of the Black Sea. After having thus opened the principal door of their empire to their avowed and formidable rivals, they cannot with any propriety or fhew of reafon, refufe us leave at leaf! to fend pacquet boats up the Red Sea to Suez ; in one cafe they give up a foiid advantage, in the other, nothing is aiked of them that can even indirectly afTecr. either their honour or interefc. And indeed it may be well worth their confideration, whether it will not be better for them to throw open-all their ports to the other Europeans in general, than by partially fharing the profits of their trade with the Ruffians, ftrengthen and enrich that particular nation, of whofe encreafe of wealth and power they have moft reafon to be jealous. The The Egyptian government being in a great meafure independent of the Porte, it may alfo be neceflary to confider whether the Beys would approve of our couriers palling through their Country, The Beys have always encouraged the trade from India to Suez, as much as fuch a fluctuating and turbulent body of men can be fuppofed to encourage any meafure of public utility. The reafon of which is obvious ; if they by any means could bring the India trade directly to Suez, they would receive all the import and export duties now paid at Gedda, to the amount of near two hundred thoufand pounds per annum 5 and therefore of courfe they will encourage a meafure from which they would derive fuch considerable profits* The only oppofition we mould meet with, would come from the Sherrecf of Mecca 3 and even he, as I have before obferved3 . c m 3 obferved, will no longer be troublefomc when he finds that we refrain from trading, and ftrictly confine onrfelves to fending pacquet boats with letters. Almost every year fome event occurs to fhew the necellity of our being able to fend pacquets by the Red Sea; of which I fhall mention a very {hiking inftance that happened at the conclufion. of the laft war. When the peace was figned, the news of it was transmitted to India, both acrofs the great defert, and alfo round the Cape of Good Hope ; neverthelefs it did not reach Madras until the end of the month of June. On the 13th and 25th of that month there were two engagements by land, and about the fame time one by fea, in which there fell eighty officers, and upwards of two thoufand men. Now had this pafTage to Suez been open at C that that time, the difpatches might have been lent from England to the fcene of action in feventy days, and of courfe have prevented this unnecefTary facrifice of fo many gallant men. But this misfortune, great as it was, might have been ftill worfe; for after our fleet bore away for Madras, Monf. de SufFrein propofcd to land all his marines and a body of feamen to join the French troops at Cuddalore, and make a defperate attack on our camp. If therefore, the difpatches had by any unforefeen accident been detained only a few days longer, and this plan had been carried into execution, the effufton of blood at leaft would have been ftill more confiderable : nor is it improbable that with fuch a fuperior force they might have cut off our whole army, then lying before Cuddalore, in confequence of which Madras and indeed all our fettlements on the coaft E *i 3 coaft of Choromandel muft inevitably have fallen into the hands of Tippo Sahib, who would have paid little or no regard to our peace with the French. The fall of Bombay, and Bengal, with their dependencies, muft foon have followed that of Madras; and the lofs of all oar pofTeilions in the eaft would no doubt have fhaken the foundations of public credit at home. When it is considered then, that the lives of thoufands, the fafety of our fettlements, and almoft the exiftence of public credit, depend on our being able to convey intelligence expeditiously to India; it will naturally be fuppofed, that nothing lefs than the fear of incurring an intolerable expence, can be thought an admilTible objection againft forming a regular plan for that pur-pofe and inftantly carrying it into execution : but in fact there is no room for fuch an objection; for the payment of a moderate rate poftage would more than defray the whole of the expence; which at all events in an affair of fuch magnitude, ought only to be deemed a fecondary confederation. ft* » ^ "» M jtr *3F C xiii ] INTRODUCTION. The following letter was written in India at the requeft of Sir Eyre Coote, who once had thoughts of returning to Europe by the way of Suez. It was not at that time intended for publication, however fince my return to England many of my friends having defired a copy of it, to avoid the trouble 'of tranfcribing it myfelf, or the expence of having it transcribed by others, I have at laft reluctantly confented to its going to the prefs. D This [ m 1 Tins the firii difficulty furmounted, I (hall now endeavour to make this publication as acceptable as I can, by adding to it an account of the proper time, and moft agreeable manner, of going from Europe to India by Suez : but firft, as the Turks have at prefent forbidden any Europeans to pais that way, it will be proper to explain the caufe of this prohibition ; and to ihew that their objections againft. travellers going through Egypt may be eafily removed. This route to India was once the mod frequented of any, but after the difcovery of the palTage round the Cape of Good Hope, it was neglected by moft European nations, and almoft entirely abandoned to the Mahomedans, who carry on the trade of the Red Sea in the following manner. In the months of November, December, and January, the Mahomedan Pilgrims who are going to Mecca from the coafts of Barbary, Turkey, Tartary, and Egypt, afTemble near Suez ; fome of them form a caravan and proceed from thence by land, but thofe who have merchandize, freight large ihips from fix to twelve hundred hundred tons to carry them and their goods to Gedda, a fea-port within fixty miles of Mecca, and about two degrees fouth of the Toronto. As different winds prevail on the different fides of the Tropic in the Red Sea, mips may come to Gedda from oppofite points at the fame feafon of the year ; thofe which come from Suez at the above-mentioned time, benefit by the N. W. wind, while thofe that come from India and Arabia Felix are affifled by the regular S. W. Monfoon. The pilgrims from the Weft and North having fulfilled the duties of their religion, and fettled their worldly concerns; contrive if they can to embark at Gedda, time enough to avail thernfelves of the * Khumfecn wind, which blows foutherly from the end of March to the middle of May, and conveys them in lefs than a month back again' to Suez : the veflels from India muft alio quit Gedda fo as to be out of the {freights of Babelmandel before the end of Auguft. This meeting of the Mahomedans at Gedda has given rile to a fort of annual fair there, which as all goods imported pay a * IChumseen or Khumfjon, the Arabic term fifty; from, this wind blowing during tii.it number of days in the manner above defcribed. D 2 regular regular duty of ten per cent, mull yield a considerable revenue to the government. The government of Gedda properly fpeaking is verted in the Sherreef or high Pried of Mecca; but in order when neceffary to obtain the protection and fupport of the Turks, he alfo allows the * Grand Signior to fend a Bafhaw there. The Sherreef appropriates the major part of the revenues to his own ufe, giving only a fmall ihare of them to the Bafhaw -t but fometimes he is obliged alfo to tranfmit a few puries to Constantinople, to keep the Grand Signior and his minifters in good humour. In the year 1774 the Governor General of Bengal propofed to fome merchants in Calcutta to fend, a (hip to the Red Sea, loaded with a proper aflbrtment of goods for the Turkifh markets ; and inftead of landing them at Gedda, he advifed their being fent directly to Suez; by which means he expected to eftablifh a new trade equally beneficial to us and to the Turks * Tkb Grand Signior affects to have imperial authority over the three Arabiaj, and the coaft of Barbary, but which in fait is never allowed by the Princes of any of thofe countries, unlefs when it fuits their convenience as in this inftance, in in general, and alfo to open a new channel for tranfmitting intelligence backwards and forwards, between India and Europe. It is not necefTary in this place to conlider the merits of the commercial part of this plan, fuffice it to fay, that the Sherreef of Mecca very foon took the alarm, and ufed all his influence both fpiritual and temporal to put a flop to its continuance. In his negociation at the Porte in this builnefs, he was zealoully aiuiled alfo by a large body of Turkilh merchants, who were apprehensive of fuffering by the prices of India goods being lowered in their markets, which muff have totally put an end to the old eftablifhed trade of BafTora and Aleppo. By fuch a weighty concurrence of intereft an edict was obtained from the Grand Signior, which {tripped of its official tautology, and oriental hyperbole, contains no more than what follows. " Historians inform us, that the ChriiV (t tians, an enterprizing and artful race, have " from the earlieft times conftantly made ufe of " deceit and violence to effect .their ambitious " purpofes. Under the difguife of merchants " they formerly introduced themfelves into " Damafcus and Jerufalem; in the fame man- " ner " ner they have fince obtained a footing in cc Hindoftan, where the Englifh have reduced *' the inhabitants to ilavery; fo now likewife " encouraged by the Beys, the fame people have " lately attempted to infinuate themfelves into t< Egypt, with a view no doubt as foon as they «« have made maps of the country, and taken *« plans of the fortifications, to attempt the *' conquefr. of it. **' In order to counteract thefe their danger-<( ous defigns, on fir ft hearing of their proceed-" ings, we enjoined their AmbafTador to write *« to his court defiring their vefTels might not ft be allowed to frequent the port of Suez; " which requifition having been fully complied " with, if any of their vefTels prefume here-" after to anchor there, the cargo fhall be cori-*' fifcated, and all perfons on board be impri-" foned, until our further pleafure be known." If it were neceifary, the Chriflians might very eafily vindicate themfelves from the afper-fions contained in this edict, and with great truth and juflice recriminate upon the Maho-medansj and indeed had not the Grand Signior been ftrangely mifinformed concerning the proceedings ceedings of both parties in India, he would hardly have ventured to make a companion between them. They are both equally ftrangers in that Country. The Mahomedans. unprovoked by the Hindoos invaded and took poffefhon of their country whereas the Englifh introduced themfelves as merchants, and carried on a trade very profitable to the natives for upwards of an hundred years, without ever Shewing the leaffc hoflile difpolition againft either the peaceable Hindoos, or the Mahomedan ufurpers. But after Surage ui Dowla had exercifed the moll wanton cruelty on the Company's fervants, by caufing a number of them tobefufiocated in the black hole of Calcutta; to revenge their deaths, and to preferve our commercial privileges which we held by grant from the Court of Delhi, we firft took up arms in Bengal : nor can the moft rigid moralift and much lefs the Grand Signior find any caufe to cenfure our conduct in thus vindicating the honour andintereft of our country*. It is true that Hindoflan has been * The different conduct of the ChriiHans and Mahomedans an India will appear in a mere ftrildng point of view from the relation been more impoverifhed under our government in the fhort fpace of thirty years, than it was under that of the Moguls, in the courfe of three or four centuries; from whence people ha/tily conclude, that the Hindoos have been more opprefTed by us, than they were by their former conquerors. This opinion however is by no means well founded: it muff be remcra- rclation of an anecdote of Oriental hiftory, which accidentally t:ame to the knowledge of the author. ,c Surage ul Dowlawas the grandfon of the great Alyvcrdi Khan, who had a favourite wife, a woman of extraordinary abilities and great virtue. When Alyvcrdi was dying, knowing the flighty and tyrannical difpofition of his grandfon, whom he intended for his fuccefibr, he advifed him on all important occafions after his death to confult the old queen, whofe difcernmcnt would enable her to forefee dangers imperceptible to an impetuous and inexperienced youth like him. When Surage ul Dowla inftigated by avarice intended to attack Calcutta, he confulted this oracle^ who advifed him againft it in the following prophetic words. " The EngliJh arc a peaceable and induftrious people; like bees, if properly encouraged and protected, they will bring you honey, but beware of disturbing the hive ! you may perhaps dcitroy a few of them, but in the end believe me, they will fting you to death." A prediction which was foon after verified. From this well-known fact it appears that we were confidered as pacifically inclined, and by no means fufpected of a difpofition to enllave the natives or quarrel with the Mahomedans; until compelled to take up arias to avoid being enflaved ourfelves.9' v bered bered that the Mahomedan invaders fettled in Hindoftan, and confequently the money their Viceroys exacted from the Inhabitants of courie returned again into general circulation; and during that time alfo the European nations imported annually large fums in fpecie. But fines we acquired territorial pofleffions, not only our-felves but alfo aim oft all other maritime powers of Europe, have traded with the fpecie of India, which having been for many years paft thus regularly drained, without receiving its ufual fupplies, is now almoft entirely exhaufted. Much more might be urged in our favour againft the charges exhibited againft us by the Grand Signior; but it being foreign to the fubject of this work, I mall content myfelf with obferving, that his majefty evidently declares in his edict the fentiments of others and not his own ; for did he really think as unfavourably of us as he affects to do in order to juftify his conduct, he would not only exclude us from the port of Suez, but alfo compel us to leave every other part of his dominions; whereas on the contrary it is well-known, that he allows us to have factories at Conftantinople, Smyrna, Aleppo, and many other places in Turky, without Shewing the leaft apprehenfion of our feizing on e his his cities, or enflaving his people. We may therefore reafonably confider the Sherreef of Mecca, as the principal author of this fcurrilous libel, who hoped thereby to keep the trade of the lied Sea in its old channel. When our government thought proper to comply with the requilition of the Porte concerning the trade to Suez, it is much to be lamented, that our minister at Constantinople, was not instructed to Stipulate for fome delay in iifuing the edict, fo that a proper time might be allowed for fending a copy of it to India: for want of this precaution, fome merchants going in the mean time from Suez to Cairo, wereplundered and murdered by a body of Arabs. Supposing even for a moment, what was not the cafe, that the merchants had been informed of the prohibition ; Still they were not punifhed in a regular manner, nor even according to the tenor of the firmaun, which decrees only a confiscation of their property, and an impri-fonmentof their perfons: whereas thefe unfortunate men were fome of them cut to pieces, and others left to periih of hunger and thirft on the Defertj a mode of punifhment which plainly &ews, that the maffacre was made by a banditti ditti fet on by a ruffian like themfelves; the Turkifh government, defpotic as it is, would have proceeded with more regularity, and leis cruelty. But here again we may trace the hand of the Sherreef of Mecca, who, no doubt, expected by an act of uncommon violence and barbarity, to deter every other Christian from paffing that way; and alio at once to gratify his avarice and refentment, by feizing on fuch a valuable booty. But the Grand Signior having illued this . firmaun, forbidding our (hips to come to Suez, and exprefTed himfelf in it, in fuch very ftrong terms: it may perhaps be deemed expedient to abandon the trade, rather than involve our-felves in a difpute with him; but furely no perfon will think, that we ought alfo to give up the right of fending pacquets that way, to which neither the Grand Signior, nor even the Sherreef of Mecca himfelf, can offer the fmailed reasonable objection. Every man acquainted with India mud know, that it is of the higheft importance to individuals, to the company, and to the nation at large, to have this channel of communication E 2 opened opened again. During the latter part of the late war, after the firmaun was iffued, the French regularly tranfmitted advices by Suez, to and from India, by which means they frequently anticipated us in intelligence, and of courfe counteracted our operations. It is not necefTiiry to particularize every in fiance, but it will doubtlefs be well remembered, that the news of the unfortunate defeat of Colonel JBailliecame to England through France, where it was known in February j time enough for them to fend out reinforcements to Hyder Ally, before the beft feafon for pairing the Cape of Good Hope was elapfed: whilft we who were ignorant of that difafter until April, could not fend out any Ships before the return of the enfuing feafon, near fix months afterwards. Since then, nothing lefs than the existence of our fettlements in India, may fome time or other depend upon our poffefring a right of palling unmolefted through Egypt ; and the prohibitory firmaun was only intended to prevent the trade of Gedda from being transferred to Suez; furely\no time Should be loft in demanding another firmaun explanatory of the fir ft, and declaring that no perfons dependent on, on, or connected with the Turkifh government, (hall impede or moled any Britiih fub-jecT: in paffing up the Red Sea, or through Egypt, provided they have nothing but papers and fuch baggage only as travellers may be fuppofed to have occalion for on fuch a journev. The Sherreef of Mecca may probably at fir ft oppofe our enjoying this privilege, in which alfo it is likely he will be fecretly fupported by the French*; but can it be thought prudent in us to fubmit to the controul of the one, or to be dupes of the fecret machinations of the other, < efpecially when confidently with judice, we can eafily get the better of both. After mewing from what caufe, the oppo-fition to our having a free paflage this way to India arofe, and expofing the futility of the charges contained in the edict: I mall next conlider what is the bell time for fetting out from England. • It is not intended to infinuate that the French ever did, or ever would co-operate with the Sherrcefin employing aflaflins ; but as our rivals in politics, it is very natural to fuppofc they will endeavour to prevail on the Grand Signior, not to revoke his prefent firmaun, the cxiftencc of which is fo difgraceful and detrimental to u$. The The feafon for undertaking this journey commences early in April, and ends early in June;' during' which timeaperfon accuflomed to travel, will eaiily arrive at Alexandria from London in about a month, that is fuppoling he has previ-oufly determined what route to purfue to the Mediterranean; and alfo has caufed a vefTel to be prepared for him on his arrival at the place where he intends to embark. The northerly and wefterly winds prevail in the Mediterranean in May, June and July; and therefore in thefe months, the pafTage from Marfeilles, Leghorn, or Venice to Alexandria, in a tolerable zaod failing vefTel feldom exceeds eighteen days, and is often performed in ten or twelve; from Alexandria he will eafily get to Suez in eight days; and from thence to Anjengo is a voyage of twenty-five days; to Bombay twenty-eight; to Madras thirty-five; and to Bengal forty; making the journey from England to India, at the moft fevenry-eight days, at the leaft fifty-nine, and at a medium lixty-eight and a half. This perhaps to fome people, may appear too nice a calculation, conlidering it is an undertaking dependent upon many accidents of winds and weather; but in anfwer to this objection it muft be remembered, that great part of the voyage voyage is performed within the Tropic, where the winds and weather are perfectly periodical: and even in the Mediterranean where only the winds are variable, they are never known in fummer, to blow long between the S. and E. the only quarter of the compafs unfavourable to the vefTels bound from the ports of Italy and France, to the Levant. The manner of performing the principal part of the voyage, that is through Egypt and from thence to India, is in a great meafure explained in the following letter; but in that nothing is mentioned of the European part of the journey. It cannot be necefTary to offer much advice to couriers, they of c o u r i e confult only the moff. expeditious mode of travelling, without paying the leaft attention to their own private pleafure or convenience. Gentlemen on the contrary, lefs able, or lefs willing to bear fatigue, will wifli to be informed how they may perform this voyage agreeably; at a moderate expence ; and without a rifque of injuring their health. The firft thing to be provided is a ftrong fecond-hand poft-chaife, which will coft between thirty and forty pounds : a large trunk before, a fmall one behind, and a chaife feat feat will carry as much or more baggage than is neceifary for two gentlemen, and one fervant allowing each gentleman a Turkifh drefs, two coats, a dozen and half of fhirts, two dozen pair of common, and one dozen pair of filk dockings, two pair of fhoes, and other necef-faries in the fame proportion. This perhaps may be thought a fcanty allowance j for generally young travellers prepare for their firn: excurfion on the continent, as if nothing could be procured out of their own country ; whereas experience foon teaches them that they have not occalion for much more baggage than Mr. Sterne carried with him on his fentimental journey. Thofe who are fond of tea, and arc nice about the quality of it, as many Englishmen are, will do well to take two or three pounds with them ; for that which they will find in the inns abroad or any where on the way will be rather coarfe and unpalatable. It may alfo be proper to take a few cakes of portable foup to ferve on board a fhip, and even on more, particularly in Egypt ^ to which may be added a bottle or two of the eflence of fellery, with which and a little vermicelli or rice, a 7>erfon may prepare a good mefs of foup on the Defert, foefert, with the fame fire that ferves the Arab* to boil their coffee. With liquor every perfon may fuit himfelf, remembering that either in France or Italy at the place where he embarks, he may pur-chafe a great variety of good wines; and at Alexandria he may procure a frefh fupply, fhould his fea flock be exhaufled on his arrival there. As to medicines it is univerlally allowed the fewer he is obliged to take the better, ftill however he fhould confider his conftitution, and if he is fubject. to any particular diforder, he will do well to confult his phyfician about carrying with him a fmall quantity of thofe medicines which he is moil likely to require. The mofl healthy and robuft are not exempt from accidents, therefore every perfon may take from England half a dozen papers of James's powders j and two pounds of bark, which are cheap, and eafily carried, and befides the former is feldom to be procured fo good in any foreign country; no perfon however mould take or adminifter thefe medicines, without having previoufly endeavoured to learn in what cafes, and in what proportions, they may be given with efficacy and fafety. This advice, F efpc- efrjecially that which relates to culinary matters* may appear trivial to travellers who have been accuitomed to go from one poft town to another in Europe; but in Alia, where there are no inns, a prudent man although no epicure will do well to gsard againft being in want of a Sufficient fupply of wholefome food. The neceffity of carrying medicine will hardly be difputed, but neither would I advife any perfon to undertake croffing the great defert, without learning to bleed and drefs flight wounds; by which means he may not only fave his own life, or that of a friend, but he will alfo merely from'the reputation of his Skill, obtain great refpcct from the 1 whole caravan. The practice of furgery it is true i3 difagreeable to thofe who are not brought up in the profeffion 5 but it is ftill more difagreeable not to be able to 2dminifter relief to a fellow creature in diftrefs. These hints being given for providing a carriage, clothes, provision and medicines, Some account may next be expected of the expence7 but that is at prefent importable. If government or the company mould hereafter eftabliil: pacquet boats between the European ports and ^ ■ ' Alex- Alexandria, and alio between Suez and the ports of India, the expence will then be eafily afcer-tained, and confidering the length of the voyage, be very moderate. The chaife will fell at the place of embarkation for as much or more than it coil in England ; the only expence therefore of the journey* through Europe would be the poll horfes and charges at th€ inns, amounting to thofe who like to live well to about fifty pounds ; to the Captain of the pacquet to Alexandria, if he finds the table, forty pounds; at Alexandria ten pounds; from thence to Suez forty pounds; at Suez ten pounds; from thence to India fixty pounds; and for ccnlingences forty pounds; making altogether two hundred and fifty pounds, which divided between two, makes one hundred and twenty-five pounds each. But this account of the journey, and the calculation of the expence muft be uuderftood to relate only to the outward bound paiTengers: thofe who come home will not travel fo fall, -nor fo cheap j for in the fir ft place they will be much longer coming up, than going down the Red Sea, and consequently muft pay dearer for their paftage; and befides the delay and expence of performing F 2 qua-' [ ixxii ] quarantine mull: come into the account of thd return from India to Europe. * It is faid a plan is now in agitation to fnbvert the Turkjih empire, the fnccefs of which muft in a great meafure depend upon the part we are inclined to take in the conteft: but mould the Imperialists and Ruffians prevail ; the defert between Suez and Cairo may hereafter become the poft road to India, and Europeans pafs it with as little apprehenfion of danger, as any perfon now feels in performing a journey from London to Paris. But this perhaps to fome politicians may not be.thought a very deiirabie event, left fuch a facility of communication between Europe and Aha, Should in the end be detrimental to our India trade. Let fuch men calculate the expence of fending goods up the Red Sea to Suez; of landing thofe goods, and tranfporting them on camels upwards of feventy miles to the Nile; • of fending them from Cairo to Alexandria, * Since the publication of the firfl edition of thin work, a peace has been concluded between the Ruffians and the Turks, by which the former have obtained from the latter the free navigation of the Black Sea, and many other considerable advantages. Rcfetta, or Damietta; and of reimbarking them at one of thofe places for the European Markets; and they will find that goods fent round the Cape of Good Hope at a proper feafon, and fubject to no expence, or danger of being Spoilt on the way, would come at leaft fifty per cent, cheaper to any market in Europe, When the Venetians loft the India trade, no violence, no finefle was ufed to deprive them of it; the trade died away of itfelf, becaufe the Portngeze and other European nations, palling round the Cape of Good Hope, could by means of the fhortnefs and fafety of the voyage, afford to under-fell them in thofe articles of India commerce which they received only by the more tedious, dangerous, and ex* penfive channel of the Red Sea : But the probability of the danger of the trade by this route becoming prejudicial to ours by the Cape of Good Hope, being admitted in its fulleft extent j are we to fuppofe that other European nations are fo blind to their own intereft, fo ftrangely ignorant, or fo abfurdly indolent, as not to difcover it, and immediately avail themfelves of their knowledge ? If goods can realy be brought cheaper from India to Europe that way, in vain fhall we attempt to -oppofe the general interefts of Europe and Alia; the India trade muft in the courfe of a few years unavoidably find its way to the eafieft and moft profitable channel. He who thinks otherwife, knows but little of human nature, and ftill lefs of tha principles of politics, and trade. - But whether or not the trade by the Red Sea will materially operate to the prejudice of that by the Cape of Good Hope, is not at prefent the queftion; nor is it certainly our bufinefs to encourage the experiment: all that is immediately contended for is the revocation of the firmaun, as far as relates to obtaining a free paffage for our couriers through Egypt, which in common juftice cannot be refufed. The tenor of the firmaun eiTentU ally affects our intereft, and the language of it is extremely infulting; nor fhould it be forgotten that it was iflued in the hour of our deepeft diftrefs. Happily the fcene is now re-verfed, of which if we are too generous to take advantage, ftill however it is to be hoped wc (hall at leaft oblige the Turks to admit our claims of a free paflage through every part of their dominions. The The way to India by BalTbra is fatiguing* and rather dangerous, and confequently will feldom be taken by choice, or for the bare gratification of curiofity; but as fome of the company's fervants may be obliged to pafs over the great Defert on public bufinefs, I think it incumbent on me to furnifh them with all the information in my power, that they may execute the orders of their employers with fafety and difpatchj and alfo perform the journey with all pofhble convenience to themfelves. For this purpofe I mall fubjoin to this work the copy of a journal I kept when going that route, and as a common itinerary would be Very uninterefting to mofl readers, I fhall in-terfperfe in it fome anecdotes and remarks, which I truft will be deemed both amufing and ufeful. . By the feveral ways of the Cape of Good Hope, Suez, and Baifora, we fhall be able to fend difpatch.es to and from India at all feafons % but being excluded from any one of them, there will be an anxious interval of fome months in every year, when we fhall mutually be ignorant of what is pafling in the different countries. The bed feafon for leaving England, to go by the Cape of Good Hope, commences in November and ends in April; that by Suez: commences in April and ends in the middle of June; and that by Bafibra will be the beft route all the reft of the year. To have a con-ftant fucceftion of intelligence eftablifhed almoft as regular as our pofts at home, would be but a very trifling, if any expence; would afford general fatisfaclion to every perfon concerned in India affairs; and at the fame time would be productive of innumerable advantages both to Government and the Eaft India company, t» ri% Bjr ^YoW.ti line drawn under a Name.denote? t/wAndeili y • The Spaniards and Portuguese carry on a kind of perpetual war againft all Mahomedans ; which was an additional reafon for the Bey's intending to imprifon the above-mentioned nobleman, fend I >9 ] fend you a horfe, your agent will be able to procure you one at Cairo ; but at the worn:, you may borrow one of the Arabian guards who efcort you from Suez, and thefe horfes although not very handfome, are far from being unplea-fant to ride ; their paces are agreeable, and they are entirely free from vice. When the day of your departure from Suez is fixed, you fhould make a large provifion of bread and ready dreffed meat, fowls, mutton, 5tc. the feafon being cold, fuch things will keep good for three or four days, which is longer than you can well be on the road to Cairo. Your party will always halt at night, when you may drefs any thing, if you prefer hot victuals to cold. There is no water on the defert, and therefore I would advife you to take a few dozen bottles in bafkets from the (hip ; for that at Suez is rather brackith, and belides the Arabs carry theirs in fktns, which are not always very clean. Notwithstanding I think there is no danger of being molefled by the Arabs, efpeci-ally after having taken the precautions I have already mentioned; yet to put it pan: a doubt, i 2 j would I would advife you when the paiTport comes from Cairo, to fend your baggage forwards a couple of days before you and when you have heard by exprefs fent back to you that it is advanced about half way to Cairo j unincumbered with a fcring of camels, that move flowly and detain each other, you may then fet out; and without travelling in the heat of the day, arrive yourfelf at moil in eight and forty hours, allowing even a proper time for fleep and refreshment on the way. The Arabs, unlefs tempted by the hopes of plunder, or provoked by fome act of hoftility, are never guilty of violence to travellers of any denomination ; therefore if your baggage paffes unmoleffed, which muff ever be the fole object of their attack, your perfon will be perfectly fafe. This journey might be performed with great eafe in eighteen or twenty hours, but then your baggage muff be left behind; nor will you ezfily perfuade your efcort to keep up with you at this rate of travelling. The face of the country nearly refembles that of the great defert, being barren and deftitute of trees excepting a tew of the Egyptian thorn, bearing a yellow flower. Within about twenty miles of Cairo, you meet with rocks amongn: which which you may find a ftone that refembles pe- % trified wood beautifully variegated. I thought it fufiicicntly curious to be taken to Europe ; and therefore carried a few fmall pieces with me, which were much admired at home. It is neceffary to get to Cairo before fun-fet, at which time the gates are fhut j for if yon arrive five minutes after they are clcyfed, you will be obliged to pafs the night very uncomfortably in the fuburbs. auiongfl poor Arabian huts. But iiia,pendent of this inconvenience it is very definable to be near Cairo about the middle of the day to enjoy one of the moft pleafing profpects I have ever feen; the beauties of which perhaps are fome what heightened by coming after a fuccefiion of views every one more dreary and defolate than the other. When about three miles from Cairo, from the fummit of an Hill you perceive that city fituated in a fertile valley, and watered by the Nile, which meanders at the fide of, and beyond its walls through a rich country as far as the eye can reach each way. To the S. W. is an immenfe high rock, at the foot of which and adjoining to the town is the citadel and palace; 1 M ] lace; to the N. and N. W. the buildings cover a fpace of at leaft ten or twelve miles in circumference, amongff which are many magnificent tombs and mofques, whofe domes and adjoining columns give a variety to this view, furpaffirig even that of the beft built towns in the Catho-lick countries, where the churches add greatly to the beauty of their external appearance. The weather was rather hazy the day we were on this v • hill, or I fhould fuppofe we mud alfo have perceived the Pyramids in the back ground of this charming landfcape. Upon entering the gates of the city you are not flopt and interrogated as you generally are coming into the towns on the continent of Europe, but your guides conduct: you immediately to the houfe of your European correfpondent; and he the next day will fettle with the officers of the cuftoms about your baggage. If they have fealed up your trunks at Suez, as they ufually do, you fhould not fuffer thofe feals to be taken off, or broken for they may be glad of fuch a pretence for threatening you with the difplea-fure of government, in order to demand a con-fiderable bribe for hufh money : thefe artifices they will be likely enough to practife upon you if if you afford them an opportunity, efpecially if you conceal your name and rank. The officers of the cuftoms at Suez fealed up our trunks, and alfo our pacquets, and in this manner we carried them to Cairo ; but as much rain fell whilfl we were crofting the defert, we opened our trunks and boxes in order to dry our cloaths, but above all our papers; not however without having previoufly confulted a gentleman at Cairo, concerning the propriety of it. The next morning when the cuftom-houfe officers came to examine our baggage, being told of what we had done, they affected to believe we had broken the feals to conceal fome prohibited goods, or at leaft to avoid paying the proper duties. We might perhaps have been able to pacify them by means of a little money, but our friend flighted their menaces, trufting he fhould get the Sheick Belled to interfere in our behalf; unfortunately for us he was again deceived, and in the end this little act. of inadvertency coft us near three hundred pounds, together with no little anxiety, on account of being detained fe-veral days at Alexandria by the order of the Bafhaw. After After vour arrival at Cairo, I would ad-vife you as well for health as for pleafure, aU moil immediately to repair to the hummam or bagnio. The Turkifh manner of bathing is infinitely fuperior to any thing of the kind that is now known, or at leaft practifed in any part or" Europe, for even moft of the inhabitants of Italy, once fo famous for the magnificence of their baths, have long neglected this luxurious but falutary cu(tom; as fome of your friends may never have feen a Turkifh bagnio, I mail attempt a defcription of that I ufed, which was one of the common fort, fuch as are to be met with in every city in the Levant. The firft room is the undrefiing chamber which is lofty and fpacious, about twenty-five feet long, and eighteen wide; near the wall is a kind of bench railed about two feet from the floor, and about feven or ^eight feet wide, fo that after bathing a perfon may lie down upon it at full length ; the windows are near the top of the roum, as well that the wind may not blow upon the bathers when undreffed, as for decency's fake. After undrefiing a fervant gives you a napkin to wrap round you, and alfo a pair of flippers, and thus equipped you are conducted conducted through a narrow paflage to the fleam room or bath, which is a large round building of about twenty-five feet diameter paved with marble, and in the centre of it is a circular bench where you are feated until you find yourfelf in a profufe perfpiration ; then your guide or attendant immediately begins rubbing you with his hand covered with a piece of rcoarfe fluff called KefTay, and thereby peels off from the fkin a kind of fkurf, which cannot be moved by wafhing only. When he has rubbed you a few minutes he conducts you to a fmall room, where there is a hot bath about four feet deep and ten feet fquare, in which he will offer to wafh you having his hand covered with a fmoother fluff than before; or you may have fome perfumed foap given you to wafh yourfelf: After you have remained here as long as is agreeable you are conducted to another little fide room, where you find two cocks of water the one hot and the other cold; which you may throw over you with a bafon, the water beino-tempered to any degree of warmth, or perfectly cold if you prefer it. This being the laft ablution, you are then covered with a napkin, and from hence again conducted to the undrefiing room, and placed upon the before-mentioned K bench bench with a carpet under you, and being extended upon it at full length, your attendant again offers to rub you dry with napkins. Some people have their nails cut, and alfo are lbam-poed*; the Turks generally fmoak after bathing and the operation of fhampoing; and in about an hour, a few minutes more or lefs, they commonly drefs and go home. It is to be wifhed that fome able phyfician would take the trouble of informing us what would be the probable effects of the ufe of the Turkifh baths in England, If we were to judge by a comparifon between the endemical diforders of Afia and Europe, we mould fuppofe that the moderate ufe of the bath might render the gout • Shampoing is varioufly performed in different countries. The moll ufual manner is fimply prefiing the hands and fingers upon the body and limbs, particularly near the extremities, fo as to comprefs, but not to pinch them. This is the general manner prattifed by the fervants of the Ahatics, but the barbers and the guides at the baths make alfo the joints and even the vertebra: of the back crack by a fudden jerk, which to people unaccuftomed to it in their youth, is rather a painful fenfation. The Chinefe and Malay barbers particularly excel in this art, which however is very well known, and generally pra&ifed all ever Afia, where it is thought a neceffary fubftitute for exercife during the hot weather. and afld rheumatifm as uncommon in this part of the world, as they are in the other. Very few Afiatlcs are afflicted with thefe complaints, although they eat their meat very highly feafbned with fpices, and ifewed in clarified butter; feldom take any exercife, and even many of them fecretly indulge in other exceffes, which with us are fuppofed to caufe the gout. Why then may we not allow fome degree of efficacy in warm baths and fhampoingj, in throwing off thofe humour?, which not being removed, occafion the pout and other chronical diforders amonglt us; but my knowledge of thefe matters being very fuperficial, I only humbly fugged thefe ideas to the faculty for their confederation and opinion : thus much however I can pretend to fay from my own experience, that the warm bath is very refreshing after un-dergoing violent fatigue. In coming from Sues to Cairo, a journey of feventy miles, I was ex-pofed to very bad weather, for two days and two nights, with no tent or covering but a cloak. On my arrival at my journey's end very much harraiTed with fatigue, and benumbed with cold I went into a warm bath, in which having: re-mained about half an hour I was perfectly reco- K 2 vered, t 23 1 vered, and never in my life was in better fpirits, or more able to have purfued my journey*. The * In the laft voyage of Captain Cooke which has been published fince this letter was written are the following obfervations on the cuilom of fhampoing, which with the remarks 1 h.ive taken the liberty of adding, I am in hopes will amufe the curious reader, and be of fervice to valetudinarians. Mr. Anderfon, in the account of his vifit to the King of the ifland of Tongauboo, vol. i. page 323, Cooke's voyage, obfervcs, " when iupper iC was over, abundance of cloth was brough' fur us to fleep on; but we were a good deal disturbed by a fingular inftance of *' luxury, in which their principal men indulge themfelves; ** that of being beaten while they were aflecp. Two women fat " by Tuttafaihie, and performed this operation, which is called ** tooge toogc, by beating brifkly on his body and legs with both " fills as on a drum, till he fell afleep ; when once the perfon is afleep, they abate a little in the ftrength and quicknefs of the «* beating, but refume it if they obferve any appearance of his •* awaking. In the morning we found, that Tuttafaihie's wo-•* men relieved each other, and went to fleep by turns. In any •« other country, it would be fuppofed, that fuch a practice ** would put an end to all reft, but here it certainly acls as an ,f opiate, and is a ftrong proof of what habit may effecV Captain Cooke in the fecond volume, page 63, informs us, that being by indifpofition prevented going to a marai in Attaharoo, he fent Mr, King and Omai, and returned on board his fhip attended by Otoo's mother, his three Afters, and eight more women. To ufe the Captain's own words, he adds, " at firft I " thought this numerous train of females came into my boat with " no other view than to get a paffage to Matavia, but when they " arrived at the fhip they told me they intended pafling the night *' on board, for the exprefs purpofe of undertaking the cure of I' the The day of your arrival at Cairo you muft determine whether or not you will vilit the Sheik cr the diforder I complained of; which was a pain of the rheu-** matic kind, extending from the hip to the foot. I accepted " the friendly offer, had a bed fpread for them upon thecabbin " floor and fubmitted myfelf to their directions* I was deftrcd " to lay myfelf down amongft them, J. hen as many as could " get round me, began to fqueeze me =with both hands from head t9 *' foci, but more particularly on the p ;:rts where the pain was *' lodged, till they made my bones crack, and r.-y flcih became " a perfeft mummy. In (hort after undc-going this difcipiifte «« about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get aw ay from uieni, •* however the operation gave me immediate relief, wh,i h en-*' couraged me to fubmitto another rubbing down before I .vent " to bed; and it was fo effectual, that I found myfelf pretty ** eafy all the night after. My female phylicians repeated their *i prefcriptions the next morning before they went afhore, and " again in the evening when they returned on board, after '* which 1 found the pain entirely removed, and the cure being " perfected, they took their leave of me the following morning. " This they call romee ; an operation, which in my opinion far exceeds the flefh brulh, or any thing of the kind that we may *r ufe externally, it is univerfally pra'&ifed amongft the ifland-" ers, being fometiines performed by the men, but more gene-" rally by the women. Jf at any time one appears languid and " tired, and fits down by any of them, they immediately begin " to praftife the romee upon one's legs, and I have always 'feund it to have an exceeding good eftecl. In thefe two extrafts taken from the voyage of Captain Cooke lately publifhed, every perfon who has been in India will recognize in an brftasi the operation of flvampoing, which, as I have already Sheick Belled, and the Bamaw, which will I fuppofe in a great meafure depend upon their own already faid in this work*, is univerfally praftifed all over the Eaft. It is with great pleafure i avail myfelf of the teftimonyof two fuch refpedtable witneffes, to fhew the exillence of this cuflom, and alfo to prove its wonderful efficacy. The manner defcribed by Mr. Anderfon is praftifed in India as it is in Ton-gataboo, with this fmall difference, that the fliampoers, do not ilrike violently with the fills, but gently with the edge of the hands; nor i confefs does it appear extraordinary to me that a perfon exhaufled with fatigue, fhould thereby be lulled to refl. It might equally be thought that noife and motion would keep children awake, but we know the reverfe to be true, for they are always fung and rocked to fleep, and even fometimes for want of a cradle the nurfes Ilrike them gently on the back with their open hands, which produces the fame effect. We may fuppofc the King of Tongataboo had long been ufed to this indulgence, and therefore like a perfon accuftomcd to opiates, he required a flrong dofe; fuch a one as would difturb, and even hurt an European. ' The operation defcribed by Captain Cooke is the molt common kind of fhampoing, and is that which is preferred by Europeans in the Ealt, who feldom have recourfe to any thing of that nature, excepting in cafes of exceffive fatigue, or real indifpofition. If it were neceffary, many perfons now in England could vouch for the efficacy of fhampoing, efpecially in relieving rheumatic or gouty pains; but what farther teflimony can be neceffary after the proof given us by a man exempt from the errors and fancies of weak minds, and whofe veracity it is impoffible to fufpecl. Poffeffed of fuch an incontcflible proof of the fa&, it were to be wifhed that a gentleman of Mr. Anderfon's • Vide fupra> own behaviour, or rather perhaps upon the character in which you choofe to appear. If you travel incognito there will be no occafion for you to go near them ; but in that cafe" you mult fubmit to the mortification of riding about on ajack afs, as all Ch.rift.ians do excepting thofe who have exprefs permiflion to ufe a horfe: but as Lord A. Percy, and alfo Lord profeffional knowledge, and philosophical turn of mind, had upon the fpot afForded this matter more particular confideration : as a medical man he probably would have been able to explain in what manner the operation of fhampoing produced the wonderful effects above defcribed ; and his remarks being introduced into a work fo univerfally read and admired, would of courfe have been no lefs univerfally known. The philofopher who is continually in fearch of materials for forming an ingenious hypothefis, will naturally catch at this fimilitude of cufloms between the natives of the iflands in the Pacific Ocean, and thofe of the great Eaftern continent, to prove that the former are certainly defcended from the latter. Without launching out into amufing conjectures and difquifitions, in which I have not at prefent leifure to indulge myfelf; I fhall only beg leave to obferve, that if another equipment for difco-verics fhould take place, this curious point might in a great meafure be afcertained, by fending linguiits in the fhips, who are acquainted with the Arabic, Malay, Chinefe, and Ruffian languages. Ey carefully following the courfe thefe different languages have taken, we may trace them to the various channels into which they have flowed, and confequently by this, one of the furefl guides, at length trace the people themfelves to the fountain head from whence they fprung. Charle^ Charlemont before him were both allowed hoifes, your agent no doubt will be able to procure you the fame indulgence; but then as I have already obferved, prefents of fome value will be neceffary both to the Sheick Belled, and the Bafhaw. We were informed it was not neceffary to vifit the Bafhaw, whole authority in the country they told us was merely nominal; but this to our cofl I have already faid we found to be a miftake: for had we paid proper attention to him, or in other words had we waited upon him, and given him a trifling prefent; the affair of opening the pacquets would have been paffed over in iilence. To guard you againft the fame inconveniences that we experienced through ignorance of the nature of the Egyptian government, I fhall attempt to give you a general idea of it. Egypt is divided into twenty-four provinces, each of which is governed by a Sangiack or Bey : the major part of thefe twenty-four Beys re-fide at Cairo, where always once a week, and fometimes oftener they fet in council, called by them the Divan: the Sheick Belled is the president of the council, and executive member of the government; ins office is fomewhat fimi- lar t 33"] lar to that of the Doge of Venice, with rather more authority, but that indeed depends opon. a variety of circumstances, fuch as whether be is a man of great abilities and firmnefs himfelf, whether he is fupported by a large party among ft his colleagues; and whether or not he is on good terms with the Bafhaw. When I was at Cairo the Sheick Belled was rather a weak man, and owed his fafety to the mutual je.-.loufy of two rival Beys nearly of equal power, who both afpired to his place. The Bafhaw is fent from the Porte as Viceroy on the part of the Grand Signior; if he can contrive to fow (edition amongft the Beys, and fecretly attach himfelf to the ftrongefl party, wEiLfx he feems to obferve a ftridt neutrality, he fometimes acquires more influence than even the Sheick Belled himfelf; but then he muft act with great care and circumfpection, for fhould his intrigues be difcovered, and the adverfe party to his prevail, he certainly will be obliged to quit the country. The manner of his difmiflion is characteriPtic of the gloomy and arbitrary proceedings of this oriental republic. The Beys having come to a refolution of fending him away, difpatch a L " Carra- Carracoulouck from the Divan or council to his houfe, who approaches the place where the Bafhaw is feated, and having filently turned up the corner of the carpet, abruptly goes awayj he is however obliged to carry an order with him, which he puts into his bofom, leaving out a corner of it fo as to be plainly perceived. The name Carracoulouck fip-nifies a black mef- o fenger, for he is dreffed in black, with a fort of bonnet on his head, of the fame colour. The Bamlw never pretends to oppofe this mandate or rather hint from the Divan, knowing that refiftance would very probably coft him his life. He therefore as foon as poffible retires quietly to Boulako, lituated about two miles and a half to the weftward of Cairo; or when he fufpecfs a violent degree of refentment againft him, he proceeds to Rofetto, and from thence fails in the fir ft veffcl to Cyprus, where he remains until he hears from Conftantinople. The Divan or council of the Beys to keep up appearances with the Porte difpatch a fpecial meffenger to Conftantinople complaining of the mifconduct of the Bafhawj but the Grand Signior eonfcious of his inability to fupport his officer, officer, takes no other notice of his difmiffion, than in fending another Bafhaw to Cairo, and often impofing a fine on the one who has been difgraced. Such, Sir, is the general outline of this Government, and as it is impoifible for you during your fhort flay in Egypt, to difcoverthe fecret intrigues of the flate, fo as to judge which party predominates, you will perhaps think it mod: prudent to be equally attentive to both. On a future occafion when pofTefTed of full information, and more leifure, I fhall probably trouble you with fome further obfervations on this extraordinary government, but I fhall conclude the prefent account with a curious trait of their policy, which has no precedent that I know of in any other country whatever. The children of the Beys cannot inherit either the rank or the property of their fathers, nor even be appointed to any office which it is deemed proper for a Bey to hold. It is true the Divan after the death of a Bey, appropriates a part of his property to the maintenance of his family, but the remainder goes to his cafheef or lieutenant, who generally fucceeds both to his office and eflate. Thefe cafheefs are Georgian or Circaffian flaves, whom the Bey has bought L 2 and t 36 ]■ and adopted when young, and of courfe educated with great care and tendernefs, with a view of leaving them grateful guardians to their orphan children. This law was doubtlefs fug-geiled to them by their diflike to monarchy and predilection for a republic ; but furely it firif took place during the adminitlration of fome childlefs perfon, or the voice of nature would have fupprefied the dictates of policy. The city of Cairo and its environs as you well know are full of curiofities, but nothing attracted my attention fo much as the infinite variety of people in the public ifreets, and yet I could difcover nothing like an original national character among them. The prefenY Egyptians are an heterogeneous mixture of all nations, and having unfortunately retained only the worft features both of the minds and per-fons of their anceftors, they are in my opinion become the moil difagreeable and contemptible nation on earib, bearing no more refemblance to the former Egyptians, than the prefent ruins do, to their once magnificent buildings. Wh en you have fufficiently gratified your curioiity at Cairo you may proceed from thence to to Alexandria by land; but you will go with, much greater eafe, expedition, and fafety, as far as Rofetto by water. There are two forts of boats on the Nile, the one refembling a Bengal budge-row or barge, and the other fomewhat like a Moor punkey*, but the generality of Egyptian boats are inferior to thofe of Bengal, both with refpecf, to elegance and accommodation. I took one at Cairo of eighteen oars, in which I arrived at Rofetto in thirty hours, about two-thirds of the men conffantly rowing whilll the others flept: the banks of the river are covered with well inhabited towns and villages, but as the natives of this part of the country bear not the bell of characters, and are particularly averfe to Europeans, it will not be prudent to trull yourfelf among them. Jt is even thought neceffary at night, to carry a light in a paper lan-thorn, under the tilt or deck of the boat, to (hew that you are Europeans, and alert or thefe pirates will fometimes attack you in hopes of • A Bengal budgerow refembles the barges of the city companies ; a Moor punkey is a long narrow boat to row with tenor twenty oars; the former is ufed for travelling up and down the great rivers in Bengal, and the provinces to the north of it; the latter is feldom ufed but in coming down with the current, with the affiftance of which, when the river is full, they are fuppofed *\go at the rate of,ten or twelve miles an hour, plunder* plunder. Should you come to an anchor you muft alfo be watchful that they do not fwim off from the more, and pilfer fomething out of the boat, at which they are very expert. The objections againft going all the way to Alexandria by water, is the furf at the Bogaz or mouth of the river at Rofetto, which renders this part of the voyage rather dangerous. It will therefore be better to go on fhore at Rofetto, and from thence proceed by land, the diftance is about thirty-three miles. Chriftians are allowed to make this journey upon camels or mules, and even upon horfes if they will go to the expence of hiring them. If you fet out from Rofetto about eight o'clock in the evening, you may arrive at Alexandria at day break, which in a moonlight night is the moft agreeable manner of travelling; for you would thereby avoid the heat of the fun, which in the middle of the day even in the winter feafon is very un-pleafant. In advifing you to travel by night from Rofetto to Alexandria, I do not mean that you fhould depart from Rofetto the night of your arrival, for if you can flay there you will find fuffi- fuflicient amufcment for a week at leaft; not that Rofetto itfelf I believe abounds with antiquities, but there are many modern buildings, in and near the city very well worth feeing. It is a place much refpected by the Mahomedans, who fay if Mecca was to be taken from them, that the pilgrims who now go thither, would in future viiit Raihid, i. e. Rofetto ; which opinion is probably founded on a tradition that one of Mahomed's nearcft relations, formerly lived, and is now buried at a rnofque which is fituated at the North part of the fuburbs. The length of this city is near two miles but it is not more than half a mile broad. In the environs of it are many country houfes belonging to Chriftian merchants whole gardens abound with exceeding fine Oranges, and many of the choice!!: fruits of the Eaft : but what contributes moft to make it an acrreeable refidence to them, is the liberality and politenefs of the Mahomedan inhabitants, who notwithftanding the reputed fanclity of the place, are particularly civil to the Chriftians; whereas at Damietta, which is fituated only on the oppofite, or pelufian fide of the Delta, an European cannot appear without a certainty of being infulted. For this violent antipathy no other reafon can be alligned, but that that during the crufades coniiderable detachments of the ChrifHan armies ufed to land there, and the accounts of the ravages they committed being tranfmitted to poflerity, has fixed a deep rooted refentment in the minds of the Damiet-tans, that will never be eradicated as long as thofe flories are remembered. European travellers in general complain of the ill treatment they meet with in all the countries of the Levant, but particularly when they are examining the ruins of ancient cities : the jealoufy fhewn by the Mahomedans on thefe occafions is always imputed to religious prejudices, or the want of urbanity; but I fhall beg leave to account for it in another manner. It is generally believed by them that all Europeans are deeply verfed in the abifrufe and occult fciences, which makes them confider us in the fame light, as the vulgar and ignorant in Europe confider our fortune tellers or conjurors; that is with a kind of admiration, mixed with fear, and deteflation. Added to this prejudice, they are alfo thoroughly perfuaded from the itories they daily hear repeated out of the Arabian Nights Entertainments, that there are many many fubterraneous palaces in their country full of pearls and diamonds, in fearch of which they fuppofe the Europeans are come to Egypt: we always acknowledge that we are looking after curiofities, which ferves to confirm them in their error; for as they have not the moft diffant idea of what we mean by curiofities, they naturally conclude we are looking for the pearls and diamonds fuppofed to be concealed in thofe lame palaces; which opinion alfo is firongly corroborated by the zeal and anxiety (hewn by our antiquarians in their refearches. As the mean heat of a country is faid to be nearly afcertained by the mean heat of the fprings ; fo are the genius and character of a nation difcovered by peruiing their favorite books; for which reafon I advife you by all means to perufe thefe Arabian Nights Entertainments before you fet out on your journey. Believe me Sir ! they contain much curious and ufeful information. They are by many people erroneoufly fuppofed to be a fpurious production, and are therefore flighted in a manner they do not deferve. They were written as I have already hinted by an Arabian, and are univerfally read, and admired throughout Afia M by by all ranks of men, both old and young: considered therefore as an original work; descriptive as they are, of the manners and cuftoms of the Eait in general, and alfo of the genius and character of the Arabians in particular; they furely mult be thought to merit the attention of the curious : nor are they in my opinion entirely deltitute of merit in other refpects, for although the extravagance of fome of the ftories is carried too far, yet on the whole one cannot help admiring the fzncy and invention of the author, in (hiking out fuch a variety of pleafiug incidents: pleafing I call them, be-caufe they have frequently afforded mc much amufement, nor do I envy any man his feelings, who is above being pleafed with them; but before any perfon pofitively decides upon the merit of thefe books, he fhould be eye witnefs of the effect they produce on thefe who belt underfland them. I have more than once feen the Arabians on the defert fetting round a fire liflening to thefe ffories with fuch attention and pleafure, as totally to forget the fatigue and hardfhip with which an in flan t before they were entirely overcome. In fhort Sir! not to dwell any longer on this fubject, they are in the fame eftimation all over Afia, that the adventures ventures of Don Quixote are in Spain; and i am perfuaded no man of any genius or tafte, would think of making; the tour of that country, without previously reading the works of Cervantes. I About half wray between Rofetto and Alexandria you come to a place called Madhia, where at flood tide you muff crofs over in a ferry boat, but at the ebb you eafily pafs over on horfeback : near the ferry is a ferai or retting place where you can fleep, but fhould it be neceffary for you to pafs a night on the road, you had better go to the town of Aboukeer, which is fituated on the fea coaft, about a mile and a half to the N. W. of the ferry, for the ferai is open to the weather, and alfo extremely dirty: from Aboukeer, or the ferry, to Alexandria is about feventeen miles. With refpect to a description of Alexandria and its environs, i fhall beg leave as before to refer you to Pococke, Norden and, Neibuhr, 6cc. taking the liberty however in fome few points to differ from them; and likewife to add fome obfervations that i have not met with in M z either cither of the abovementioned writers, concerning the prefent and alfo the former ftate of Egypt. The Mole of about one thoufand yards in length which was built to form a communication with the illand of Pharos does not appear to me to have been taken fufficient notice of by any perfon. As Alexandria was built with a view to commerce, this mole, notwithstanding fome appearances of gothic work in the arches, is probably coeval with the foundation of the city. Of what excellent materials then muft it have been originally compofed to have refitted the beating of the wind and waves for near two thoufand years! Dr. Pococke with great reafon admires the arched citterns under the houfes for the reception of the water of the Nile, of which however there arc not more than five or fix remaining at this time; but in my opinion the fame labour and expence would have been better beftowed in lining the canal from the Nile to Alexandria, with the fame durable materials as thofe of the Mole; by means of which the city to the endof time would have been amply fupplied with water; and goods with great eafe have been tranfportcd to it, from all parts of Egypt. For want of being lined the banks of the Califch or or canal are now fallen in, which is one of the principal caufes of the decline of the trade, and of courfe of the ruin of the city. It has long been a favourite opinion among!! the learned, both ancients and moderns, that the Egyptians were acquainted with the arts and fciences, when all the other people were in a ftate of ignorance. We are told they difcovered geometry in making the divifions of land, after the annual overflowing of the Nile; that the clearnefs of their atmofphere enabled them to make agronomical obfervations fooner than other people; and that the fertility of their country gave rife to trade, by enabling them to fupply all their neighbours with corn and other jneceffaries of life. Thefe arguments are however more fpecious than true, for if we owe the difcovery of geometry to the overflowing of the Nile, of aflronomy to the clearnefs of the atmofphere, and of trade to the fertility of the foil j in that part of Hindoflan which is within the tropic, there are ftill larger rivers which overflow annually, a clearer fky, and a more fertile foil. The Nile only once a year affords a fupply of water to the countries on its banks, and the fmall quantity of rain that falls there at other other times, does not furnifli moifture enough to keep up the (mailed: degree of vegetation. Whereas the rivers in Hindoftan, particularly thofe on the coaft of Choromandel, are regularly filled with water twice a year, firft from the rains which fall in June, July and Auguft, in the Balagat mountains, where the fources of thofe rivers lie; and afterwards from the N. E. monfoon or rainy feafon, which continues on the Choromandel coaft during the months of October, November, and December. With refpect to the goodnefs of the climate, or the clearnefs of the atmofphere for the purpofes of aftronomy, there can be no comparifon between Egypt and Hindoftan; for at night during the greater part of the year in Hindoftan there is fcarcely a cloud to be feen in the fky, and the air efpecially in the fouthern countries is never difagreeably cold ; fo that an aftronomer would have every opportunity and inducement to pur-fue his ftudies in the open air: whereas, in Egypt the iky is often cloudy, and the air fo cold as to make it unpleafant to be out of doors after fun-fet. The Indians had alfo evidently the advantage of the Egyptians with refpect to cloathing, which which is one of the neceffaries, or at leaft one of the comforts of life ; for if we fuppofe men fir ft cloathed themfelves in the ikins of animals, India abounds in vaft forefts or extenfive fertile plains, where animals of all kind both favage and tame, muff have bred infinitely fafter than in the barren deferts of upper Egypt; but in a hot country the natives would naturally prefer garments made of woven cotton. Now, the cotton fhrub is very rare in Egypt, even at this time, and it is well known to have grown in India, and to have been fabricated into cloth, ever fince we have had any acquaintance with that country. From thefe premifes, therefore, it is natural to fuppofe, that the Indians in the early ages were much more likely to fupply the Egyptians with neceilaries and comforts of life, than to be fupplied by them ; that the Indians would at leaft have as much occafion for geometry as the Egyptians; and that they had at leaft equal if not greater advantages for purfu-ing the ftudy of aftronomy. Thus far however all is but conjecture, for we have no tradition or hiilory of thofe times, when either'the Egyptians or the Indians were in an uncivilized ftate; but if we purfue the fubject we fhall find very evident proofs that when an intercourfe did did take place between them ; that the Egyptians received from Hindoftan all thofe articles of luxury, which the Greeks and Romans pur-chafed again from them. It would be both tedious and unneceffary to enumerate all thefe, I fhall therefore content myfelf with particularizing lilk, fpices, pearls, diamonds, and other precious ftones. It was formerly fuppofed that moft of thefe articles came from Arabia Felix, but this error lias long fince been exploded. It is now well known they were none of them the produce of Arabia, but were brought thither by vefTels from India, and from thence were carried up the Red Sea, with other productions of that country. It may perhaps be objected, that the Egyptians and the Arabians are generally fuppofed to have known the art of navigation before the Indians, and of courfe that although India may produce fpices, &c. the Egyptians and Arabians went thither to fetch them. Hiftory being entirely filent on this fubjedt we can only endeavour to afcertain this matter, by ftating the arguments on both fides the quefhon. In In all probability before any intercourfe fub-fifted between the Indians and Egyptians, both people knew how to conftruct fmall boats or rather rafts for crofling deep rivers, and even for tranfporting themfelves by water from one place to another in the fame country; but at the fame time it muft be allowed that the Indians had much better materials for building both fmall and large boats than either the Egyptians, or even the Arabians ; and the boats of the prefent day plainly fhew in what manner the Indians made ufe of thefe materials. The planks are made of a light boyant pliant wood, fewed together with coir or the rind of the cocoa nut made into a kind of fmall cord j all the larger ropes are made of the fame materials, and even the oars themfelves are formed of one ftrait pole with a piece of fiat board tied upon it with a coir firing to form the blade of the oar. The prefent large country boats of forty and fifty tons, efpecially thofe belonging to the Lacidivi and Maldivi iflands are ftill built in the fame manner, with no other difference than being on a larger fcale: with thefe in a fair feafon they make voyages many degrees out of fight of land; yet nothing of the kind not even the firft eflays of the art could have N been been more rude than thefe now are. It is highly probable therefore that as foon as they knew the latitude of the freights of Babel-mandel, and were furnithed with instruments for making obfervations, they ventured to pafs over from the Malabar coaft to that of Arabia. I may perhaps be uikcd when and how it was they became acquainted with the latitude of thefe /freights ? that is a difficulty I believe no perfon can folve any more than myfelf, but it is pofhble that there was once a chain of ifTands nearly in fight of each other, from the Malabar coaft to that of Arabia, moft of which may have been fwallowed up in fome great con-vuliion of nature, fo as to leave no remains excepting the illand of Socotra and thofe of La-cidivi and Maldivi : but even fuppofing no fuch illands to haveexifted, ftill fureiyas the Indians had good materials for building veffels, and a fea to fail upon that is gcverned by regular currents and periodical winds, neither of which the Egvptians had ; we may rather fuppofe that the produce of Hindoftan was carried to Egypt by the Indians, than that it was fetched away from thence by the Egyptians. If the Indians required nothing from the Egyptians either of the neceilaries or comforts of life; if the Egyptians got fpices and other articles of luxury from India; and if the natives of India were fir ft acquainted with the fcience of aftronomy and the arts of navigation, all of which I think are probable: it is but reafonable to fuppofe that the arts and fciences were firft known in India, and from thence were brought up the Red Sea to Egypt. I am well aware that the advocates for Egypt will call upon me to produce any remains of antiquity in India fo ancient as the Pyramids. To thefe gentlemen I fhall oppofe one impoffibility^to another, by afking them to trace back the building of Gour, which feven hundred and thirty years before Chrift was the capital of Bengal; or of the better known Pali-bothra of the ancients, which was the capital of India, long before Alexander's time. As a further proof that the natives of Hindoftan were in an advanced ftate of civilization near two thoufand years ago, I fhall alfo beg leave to obferve that a plate of copper was lately dug up at Mongheer, engraved with Shanfcrit characters which contains a conveyance or prant of » N 2 land t 52 1 land from Bickeram Geet Raja of Bengal to one of his fubjects, and dated near one hundred years before the Chriftian sera. To enter into a lone, detail of reafoning upon this plate cannot be neceffary; I am perfuaded Sir, you will in an inftant conceive how long the arts and fciences muft have been known in Hindoftan, before thefe regular divifions of land took place, and the grants of them were engraved on copper in fuch characters as would not difgrace our moft Ikilful artifts even at this time. The ingenious Mr. Halhed in the preface of his Bengal grammar, informs us that the Raja or Kifhnagur, who he fays, is by far the moft learned and able antiquary, that Bengal has produced within this century, pofitively affirms that he has in his own poffeffion Shanfcrit books, which give an account of a communication formerly fubfifting between India and Egypt, wherein the Egyptians are conftantly defcribed as difciples, and not as inftrucfors of the Indians; and as feeking that liberal education, and thofe fciences in Hindoftan, which none of their own countrymen had fufficient knowledge to impart. This evidence of the learned Raja has great weight with me, efpe- cially t 53 1 dally as there are books now extant In Bengal, written in the Shanfcrit language, which are copies of others faid by the Bramins to be dated more than two thoufand two hundred years before the Chriftian aera. This fact admitted, and I firmly believe it very poflible to be proved, the Egyptians mull appear a modern people in companion with the natives of Hindoftan; for when the former were advanced no further in literature, than the conftructing of hierogly-phicks, the latter were mailers of books written in a language which had then attained a great degree of perfection. But this is not all that may be urged in favour of the claims of the Indians, fome further proofs will appear upon examining the general, itate of commerce at that time all over the globe. In Europe it was very trifling, of America we were totally ignorant; and only a corner of Africa was known; confequently whatever commerce then exifted muft have come from Afia. About this time there was a chain, or if I may be allowed the expreflion, a ftreet of magnificent cities from Coptos to Alexandria, which continued in a flourifhing ftate, notwithstanding the Egyptian empire frequently changed its Sove- Sovereign. Nor from any information I am mailer of, can I find thofe cities began to decline until the followers of Mahomed transferred the India trade from upper Egypt to the oppofite coal! of the Red Sea; then, and not before, Upper Egypt became what itflill continues to be, an uninhabited defert. If thefe facts be true, and I believe they will not be difputed; we may reafonably infer from them, that thefe cities of Upper Egypt not only exiif-ed by the fupport they derived from that trade ; but alfo that they owed their original exillence to it. Nor is it Egypt only that has experienced thefe effects of the India trade j whatever nation has pofljeifed the largefl fliare of it, has invariably for the time enjoyed alfo the largefl portion of wealth and power; and when deprived of it, funk again almofl into their original obfcurity; When the folly of the crufades was over, and the remembrance of the injuries fuflained on both fides in fome meafure mutually forgotten; the Mahomedans intent only on conquefl and fpreading the doctrines of their prophet, allowed the Chrillians to carry on the trade between Europe and the Levant, which coniiited principally in tranfporting the India goods from the ports ports of Syria, Paleftine, and Egypt, to thofe of Italy. It is well known that the Venetians for a long time engroifed the greater part of this trade, and whilfh they enjoyed it were the richefl and moff powerful people in Europe ; we may alfo trace it from Venice to the Hans towns by the cities to which it gave rife in Germany. But at length the Portugueze difcovered the paffage round the Cape of Good Hope, which carried a part of the India trade into another channel; immediately Venice declined, and Portugal became one of the greatefl nations in Europe. They however enjoyed their fuperi-ority but a fhort time, for the enterprizing and induffrious natives of Holland found their way round the Cape of Good Hope,- and very foon eifabliihed themfelves in India on the ruin of the Portugueze. Whilft the riches of India flowed into Holland, the Dutch difputed the empire of the feas with the united fleets of England and France. At laff we obtained a larger portion of this trade than ever was enjoyed by any nation whatever, excepting the Egyptians, and every perfon knows at that period Great Britain gave law to all Europe. Nor does it require the gift of prophecy to be able to foretell, that deprived of this fource of wealth we mall mail link almoit as low in the political fcale of Europe, as either Holland, Portugal, Venice, or even Egypt itfelf. In fhort, to fum up the whole of this argument in a few words. If the arts and fciences conducted by commerce can be traced back from the weft of Europe to Italy, from thence to Greece, and fo on eastward to Egypt : if India poffeffed many natural advantages over Egypt for the production of every article of trade, and alfo for the difcovery ancr, improvement of every branch of the mathematics : and above all, if we have every reafon to fuppofe that the Shanfcrit or original Indian language had acquired a great degree of perfection, and was written with great regularity, when the Egyptians were only acquainted with the hieroglyphicks: it is but reafonable to conclude, that the arts and fciences came by the means of commerce from India to Egypt, in the famemanner, as they afterwards came fromEgypt to Europe. From the weft part of Europe they have paffed over to America, where probably they will ftill continue to purfue the fame courfe, until they have finished their circuit round the globe, by opening a communication between the two great continents from the weft of America, to the Eaft coafts of Afia. The further con- consideration of this fubjecf would lead me into a long train of political reflections, I mall therefore quit it, and return to what relates to Egypt. There are great difputes amongff the moderns concerning the exact, lituation of the ancient city of Berenice, on the weft coaft of the Red Sea; and alfo whether or not, there was a navigable canal between that city and Coptos, on the banks of the Nile. If you have leifure to go into Upper Egypt, or can land at Cofire, you perhaps will be glad to know what has been already faid on this fubject, and alfo to receive any information I can afford you, concerning that or any other navigable canal between the Red Sea and the Nile. Both ancient and modern geographers de-fcribe the remains of a canal from Suez, to a fmall lake of brackifh water about thirty miles to the north of that place; and from thence to a canal faid to have been dug by the order of the Emperor Trajan, which goes from that lake into the Nile a few miles below the city of Cairo: for my own part, I muft acknowledge, I faw nothing like a canal near Suez, excepting O a fmall a fmall water courfe, many of which are to be feen both in the great and little defert. With refpect to that faid to have been cut between Berenice and Coptos in the latitude of twenty-fix in Upper Egypt, I think there is reafon to doubt its exiftence. Mr. D'Anville feems to think that a road only was made from the Nile to the Red Sea, and that the mi (take arofe from there being a navigable canal between Coptos and the Nile, from which it was difiant only feven miles. But this great geographer not having entered fo minutely into this fubject, as perhaps you may think it deferves; I fhall offer a few words to your coniideration in confirmation of his opinion. Those writers who have placed a navigable canal, or a road between the Nile and the Red Sea from modern Ghinna to Cofire j have probably guefled that it muft have been in that fituation, becaufe it is the fborteft diftance from the fea to the river, being in a ftrait line at moft one hundred and twenty miles. But admitting any fuch canal to have exifted in Upper Egypt, of which there are no traces to be found; it is not very likely it fhould be cut in that direction ; for Cofire being almoft three degrees beyond the Tropic, Tropic, the voyage from the Tropic to Cofire, would to the ancients in their ill-conftrudted vefTels have been practicable during only the continuance of the Khumfeen wind, which as I have before obferved blows for about fifty days in the year : furely then had the Egyptians attempted to make fuch a navigable canal, they would have made it further to the fouthward, near the Tropic, where it would have been fer-viceabie to them for fix months in the year ; that is, fomewhere near to the fpot where Ptolemy and others have placed the ancient city of Berenice. Dr. Pococke, who does not feem to have adverted to this circumftance of the N. W. wind prevailing fo long below Cofire: thinks that Ptolemy is miitaken in his latitude of Berenice, becaufe Strabo who had vifited Upper Egypt, places Berenice near Coptos; the word near however being only a relative term, may equally mean one hundred, or two hundred and fifty-eight miles; and therefore cannot be deemed any proof that Berenice mould have been exactly in the fame parallel of latitude with Coptos. The fituation of Coptos is not difpntedj and as Ptolemy, and many of the moft refpedable geographers have made the diftance from thence to Berenice near two hundred and fifty-eight O 2 miles, miles, moft perfons perhaps, will be of opinion that Berenice was fituated in what is called Foul Bay, to the fouthward of Cape Nofe, and within a few miles of the Tropic. Ptolemy Phila-delphus made a road from the one city to the oth-r, in which he caufed wells to be dug, and what would now in the Eaft be called Caravan-faries to be erected; but of which I have been informed no veftiges are now vilible. This road has alfo by fome people been miftaken for a canal, but I fhall offer fome objections to your confideration againft the probability of any canal having been made between this part of the Nile, and the Red Sea. The canal muft have been fupplied with water either from the river, or from the fea. If from the river, fuch a difcharge from that body of water muft even in the beft feafon have deprived Lower Egypt of too large a quantity of this only fource of its fertility: and in a dry feafon, which happens at leaft every fourth or fifth year, muft have occafioned a famine; for as I have before mentioned the rain never falls there in fufficient abundance to keep up the fmalleft degree of vegetation. If [ fit 3 If the canal was to be fupplied with water from the Red Sea, an extraordinary fpring tide, or a ftorm might have broken down the locks, and thereby overflowed Lower Egypt, fo as to render it a mere falt-water lake : but at leaft the mixture of the fait with the frefh water would have made it unfit for the purpofes of hufbandry, and befides the major part of the inhabitants have no other frefh water than what comes from the Nile. If then the Egyptians could not cut a canal without ruining their country, or depriving themfelves of a re-quilite fupply of water for domeftrc ufes, we may reafonably conclude they never would have made the attempt and thereby expatriated themfelves. Thus Sir! having made all the obfervations on Egypt that occur to me, or at leaft fuch as will come within the narrow com-pafs of a letter; I fhall next confider what meafures you muft take to proceed from Alexandria to Europe. The time and manner of your departure from Alexandria muft entirely depend upon the plan which you have laid down ; that is, whether you intend to go directly to England; or whether you propofe to travel leifureiv; and make a tour of of plcafure : You will hardly think of going to Europe all the way by land through Paleftine, Syria, Alia Minor, &c. I fhall therefore mention what ileps you are to take in going by lea. Your agent will eafily procure you a velfel on freight to carry you to any of the ports in Europe, which you may have on reafonable terms if you will allow them alfo to put a cargo on board; and it will be no inconvenience to you, provided you fpecify the particular port to which you are bound; and the veffel is afterwards put under your orders. Of all the nations that frequent this port, I fhould advife you to employ Ragufians. Their vefTels are ftrong and well-found; their feamen are fo be r, cleanly, and civil; and their republic is generally at peace with all the different lfates of Barbary. Next to thefe in time of peace, I fhould prefer the French, who carry on a considerable trade here, and employ in it very large fhips; there are but very few Englifh vefTels, and thefe are generally fmall and in bad condition. If If you arc in hafte to get home, it is belt to freight the (hip for two months to carry you to any port in the Adriatic or the Mediterranean, and then it will be in your own power to choofe one of thofe places where the quarantine is fhort, viz. Malta, Marfeilles, Ragufa, or Triefte : at all thefe ports with a pattenta netta, or clean bill of health, the confinement is only eighteen days. I would advife you to ffeer for Malta; but if the wind comes to the wefhvard after you have paffed Candia, and before you fee Malta, you fhould then attempt to pafs by the Pharo Medina in the way to Marfeilles, or elfe to enter the Adriatic and fail for Triefte. When you are advanced up the Adriatic, fhould the wind come round to the N. W. the port of Ragufa will be under your lee; from whence after performing quarantine, you may land in any part of Italy. Before you embark at Alexandria, the Conful who acts as your agent, at the fame time he difpatches the fhip, gives you a feparate certificate or bill of health for yourfelf. If you propofe making a voyage of plea-fure without being reftricted in time, and can depart from Alexandria in the month of February, you will of courfe firft vifit the Archipelago ; where in the different iilands you will find find an inexhauftible fund of amufemcnt. It will be very eafy in the courfe of four months to go to Conftantinople, calling in the way at all the places on the Eaft fide of the Archipelago that are worth feeing; and afterwards when you are going to Italy, to vilit thofe on the Weft. I am extremely forry it is not at prefent in my power to give you a particular description of all thefe iflands, but at Alexandria you will eafily obtain every kind of information concerning them that you can require. In your return from Conftantinople, after palling the N. W. end of Candia, if you will wifh to fee the South part of Italy, and the illand of Sicily, it will be neceffary for you to perform your quarantine at Malta; but as the Sicilians fuffer-ed dreadfully from the plague in the year 1743, I am not certain that you cart go from Malta to any part of that ifland, without being detained fome days on board the fhip. At Mef-fina where the plague raged with its greateft violence, they often impofe a quarantine of feven days, even on thofe who come from the oppofite coaft of Calabria ; but the Neapolitans are not fo Scrupulous, therefore having got Pratique from Malta you may land in that city. The The time fpent in vifiting Conftantinople and the iflands in the Archipelago, and alfo in performing quarantine, will bring you to Naples in July or Auguft, which indeed is' not the moft favorable feafon j but that cannot be avoided, imlefs you prolong your ftay at Conftantinople or the iflands, fo as to arrive at Naples in September or October, which is exactly the plan I mould moft recommend, for by this little delay, you will have full time to examine countries, which are in the higher! degree worthy of your attention: you will be able to pais the winter moft agreeably at Naples ; and you will have all the following fpring and fummer for your journey through Italy and France to England; the warmth of the fun increafmg, as you advance towards the North. And now Sir! having conducted you to the continent of Europe, I fhall beg leave to conclude ; not however without affuring you that if neceffary, I mall be happy to afford you any further information in mypowcr,*and alfo that I am, SIR," With great refpccl, Tour mojl obedient humble fervant', F°ZSl^T' JAMES CAPPER. P JOURNEY FROM CONSTANTINOPLE to VIENNA, B Y George Baldwin, Efqj &c. We hired a coach, an old caff-ofT fiacre, to carry us from Conftantinople to Vienna, with four horfes to draw it; two horfes to carry our baggage, a janizary to protect us, and a ferugee or pofl-boy to conduct us. We began the journey on the 28th of September, 1780, upon a Thurfday, from Mr. Willis's houfe in the village of Belgrade; Mr. Willis and his brother Stuart accompanying us part of the way. In eight hours we arrived at ponte Picolo or Cutchuk Chickmagee, and were joined by Dr. Lucci; P 2 we t 6S ] we lodged in a new conak pretty well accommodated : in fad: our bed furniture we carried with us, and it confilted of nothing but a carpet, two fmall fquare cuiliions to fet on, and two cufliions to lean or lay our heads on, as our inclination might prompt, and a quilt to cover us. On Friday the 29th of September in the morning we departed; all the way on our journey the fame objects were varied by different afpects i the country hilly on the right, and on our left, the fea. In three hours we arrived at Btiyuk Chikmagee or ponte grande, a much plea-fan ter fituation than ponte Picolo. Breakfafted, and in five hours more got to Silivria, this town which is confiderable, is fituated on the declivity and fummit of a hill, has five mofques, and an ancient Greek church with infcriptions, which the Priefl could not interpret. We remained here till Saturday morning eight o'clock (30th September) when our friends left us. This feparation did not a little diffurb us; Mrs. B--who for the firft time in her life now found herfelf bereaved of all her acquaintance but myfelf, and juft leaving thofe fhe had great reafon to effeem, was totally overwhelmed. The very fine country we paffed had no attractions for her, and gloomy and fad we went through through tins day's journey, a feven hours march to Chio Oglu. In this ftate of mind we took up our lodging at a fpacious and once magnificent conak, when an occurrence happened that excited our curiofity, a pafhon that is not to be ftifled by affliction. The Devan Effendi of Wallachia made his appearance with a fuit of a dozen carriages, and a long cavalcade of more than an hundred horfes. He is an officer appointed by the Porte to co-officiate with the prince of Wallachia in caufes wherein Turks and fubjects are concerned ; the fupreme power being veiled in the prince, who is a Greek, and appointed by the Porte. This and the principality of Moldavia are the only veftiges I know of the ancient Greek dominions; the Greek language is fpoken at court, and all the inflru-ments of government are drawn up in that language. On the road from this place, whence we departed at five o'clock (ifl October) Sunday morning, we met a much more confiderable train attending the lifter of the reigning prin* cefs of Wallachia, and related to the druggaman of the Porte. This dignity fo founding is but of a precarious tenure, fince the Porte have upon a late occafion affumed and exercifed the unexampled prerogative of depofmg and beheading the t 70 ] the prince. The country is hilly, and well inter fperfed with villages and trees, the road good; we loft fight of the fea on the preceding day. In ten hours we arrived at Burgas, a large village with a considerable mofque in it j as yet no ficknefs on the way, but we heard reports of the plague raging at Adrianople. The people were collected at the entrance of the town, with tents pitched and mufic playing, to celebrate their feftival of Bairam with dancing and fongs. The Turks faft during the whole moon of Ramazan, by a ftrict abftinence from meat or drink, or any thing fenfual, from fun-rife to fun-fet; but many of them indulge in pleafures during the night. At the end of the Ramazan, or rather upon the appearance of the new moon of Bairam, they celebrate a feftival of three days, cloathing themfelves entirely new, and giving into every amufement that a people characterized for temperance and fobriety may be fuppofed to indulge in. We refted at this conak till five next morning (2d October) and then purfued our journey. The road is very good and pleafant, but hilly; on the way for hours together, to the right and left, we faw fwarms of Locufts, myriads; the atmof- atmofphere was darkened with them ; it was their coupling time. The male was diftinguifh-able, being of a fine yellow colour, and the female of a dark brown. This may be considered as their laft ftage, they take flight, and falling in their pafTage, they depofit their eggs half an inch in the ground, and die. The invincible fuperftition of the Turks in all their metaphysical tenets, makes them as blind in their tolerance of this evil, which they could eaiily prevent; as they are in neglecting every precaution againft the effects of the plague; but they fay, " What God has decreed, muft be fulfilled." We arrived at Affsa at four o'clock in the evening, a village only four hours diftant from Ad-rianople, or Aderne, as the Turks now call it. No plague here, and from the information our janizary brought us, it had ceafed at Adriano-ple. Our room was fmall and low, and part of one fide of an old fquare building, having a gallery within, tumbling almoft in its laft ftage of ruin. A mofque stands in the center of the yard, and near it is a bafon of water furrounded by fome trees, it was juft enough to keep us from the fpleen. As we did not credit the laft accounts we had heard of the plague having ceafed at Adrianople, we confequently determined t 7* ] mined not to go near it. On Tuefday morning therefore (3d October) at fun-rife, taking our departure, we made a tour to a ferry below the city, and in an hour and a half arrived at Cara-gatcb, the rummer retreat of the French merchants eftablifhed at Adrianople. We were feeo as we entered the village by a Monf. TerraiTon, and conducted by him to his own houfe, the abode of genuine indifcriminate hofpitality, even to strangers, and thofe of a country hoitile to his own. The condition of one of our horfes made it neceffary that we mould get another, and retarded us in this place all that day, and the next. We were vifited by Monf. Meynard, his mother, fitter, and brother, who expreffed themfelves concerned that we had not fallen to their lot; but they made us all dine with them on Wednefday. Monf. D'Argus alfo would have vied with his compatriots, if time and his own misfortunes had not made it impofiible; enfin, cetoit la benediction de Dieu. They were as happy as they made us, and I never was more fo in my life. We were near the plain of Demftica, and the village of Dcmirbafli, renowned in the hittory of Charles XII. of Sweden. We walked over this theatre of his extravagant exploits with a kind of reverential delight. delight: now a fcene of paftoral tranquillity, fcarcely inhabited, and but little heeded. Returning to the village with our amiable party, we were curious to know the nature and object of their fettlement at Adrianople. Trade I know to be their purfuit, but we enquired after its foundation and refources. They fupply the city and its environs with the various produce of Europe, which is conveyed to them from Conftantinople; either directly by land, or from Rhadoffo, whither it is conveyed by boats; and from Smyrna by the port of Envi, in the Egean fea, and thence up the river Ma-rizza to Adrianople. Their confumption is considerable, and in return one of their greateft, articles of exportation is hare ikins, which they buy as a fubftitute for the Canadian beaver; and fend to the number of between three and four hundred thoufand annually to France. i was af-tonifhed at this furprizing nurfery of hares, but the account is certainly founded in truth. Bred in Wallachia and the intermediate tract of land, they are driven in large parties by the feverity of the winter, down to the plains: the fnow with which the ground is covered betrays their haunts haunts to the hunter, and thus they are eafily en in a red. We had a view of the city of Adrianople, in which there appears fome magnificent mofques and other public buildings. It extends a considerable way along the river Marizza, juft after it has been joined by the Arfa and Tunja, and fr0in thence rifing in a gradual afcent, the greateft. part of the city is feen on an elevation, which impreffes a very advantageous idea of its beauty and importance upon the traveller's mind. The plague was preying at that very time upon the lives of its inhabitants, and forbad our nearer approach. Notwithstanding we did not go thither ourfelves, we were not free from very well founded apprehensions of the danger we intended to avoid ; for our conductors had been into the city, and in company with the people of it; they had been cautious they faid, but our reliance was in the mercy of Providence. As we came to a crofs road in the fkirts of the city on our way from Affsa, we faw upon an eminence a man erect upon a flake, at the height of three feet at lead from the ground j he he had been impaled, and was placed there in terrorem to others. It is not a very unufual fight in the dominions of the Turks. On Thurfday, the 5th of October, we took our leave of Carragatch, but our French friends would attend us part of the way ; they muft fee us acrofs a river we had to ford at a dangerous place; we knew nothing of the river, and therefore a cart upon much higher wheels than our coach being about to pafs, we got into it, and took our baggage with us leaving the coach to follow. We got over dry and fafe, but our coach was nearly loft. Our friends fwam their horfes over with us, and after that Lnftance of their very cordial attention, and po-litenefs; bid us adieu, and returned. We ft aid to fee them fafe on the other fhore again ; made figns of our fatisfaction and gratitude, and went heavily on. We forded and were ferried feve-ral different times in this day's march, which lafted eight hours over a beautiful country, and at length brought us to a Bulgarian village called Hcbibchay. We had been joined at Carragatch by two Greek priefts who begged the favour of our protection on their journey to Belgrade, to which we had no objection. We O ? refted t 76 ] reflcd in a Christian's hut, nothing more than mud walls four feet from the ground, and thatched. We flept here, for the fir ft time, on the ground; that is, on our carpet fpread upon the ground. The language of thefe people is the Bnlgar, lbmething of the Illyric. We could net understand it, all our entertainment therefore was derived from our fight; the women appear hardy, and do not conceal themfelves. We made a good fire in our hut, forgot the humility of our lot, and in defiance of vermin, palled the night in fome degree of comiort. On Friday at fun-rife (6th October) we left this place, and paffing over a very fine hilly country in fight of the river, in eight hours we arrived at Armanak, where a magnificent khan was originally built for the accommodation of the troops, and now affording a fhelter for travellers. We however, after a flight repofe, continued on to Semiky, a Bulgarian town, which we reached at fun-fet. The women flocked to fee Mrs. B--, and viewing her with a great deal of aftonifhment, i afked one of them what was the reafon of their wonder ? 1 flie anfwered, to fee a woman who had never done done work. There was fo much fimplicity and fo much ignorance of a (late of refinement in this anfwer, as to difpofe us to bear with their importunities. The Bui garian families intermarry, unite, and make common caufe. The cufiom is for the hufband to live in the paternal houfe of his wife, and their numbers accumulate in fome families beyond credibility. We bought a fucking pig for twenty paras, or one (hilling; and one of our facerdotal companions undertook to drefs it, as he did alfo to interpret for us, in which we were fometimes at a lofs. WTehad not difcovered all his merit till this day, perhaps not all then. Our bed was again upon the ground. On Saturday morning at fun-rife (7th October) we renewed our journey, and pafling by fome villages and over a fine country, arrived at four in the evening, at Papafquoi. This village is fituated in the plain of Philipopoli (by the Turks called Phillibey) near a fmall ftream, which makes it pleafant. Our nocturnal accommodation as ufual; but the vermin rather more importunate; fatigue however is an irrefiftable opiate, and we got a proper portion of fleep. Dm On Sunday at fun-rife (8th October) we renewed our march for Philipopoli; in half an hour we came in fight of the city, it being fituated on a rock leading to it over a plain, the river Marizza meandering by it, and fertilizing and beautifying the country in its way. Rice grows in great abundance in this plain, and good in quality. There were numbers of waggons going to and fro upon the various roads in the plain ; and gave figns of an activity, and induflry, which is very unufual in the other parts of the Turkifh dominions. The fact is, a considerable iron mine in the neighbourhood, gives employment to all thefe convoys of waggons, and the character and conftitution of the people is more fuitable to commerce, than in the province we were leaving behind us. We entered Philipopoli at eleven o'clock, and had to afcend a very narrow and fleep road to the refidence of Sig. Demetrio Khiro, a Greek, with whom we took the liberty to fojourn. This gentleman is a Raija, or Chriflian tributary of the Grand Signior, but protected by a barat, or privilege of exemption, allowed to the Am-baffadors of the Porte. Every Ambaffador is complimented with the privilege of giving protections to the number of thirty-two as fervants, but but they are fometimes fold to the rich Raijas for considerable fums. Sign'or Khiros's houfe is fpacious, very pleafantly fituated upon the fummit of the rock, and commanding a beautiful view of the plain beneath, watered by three rivers, the Arta, Tunja, and Marizza, juft as they are approaching to a junction in the vicinity of Adrianople. Our hoft himfelf was a considerable trader in red cotton yarn, which he fends in large quantities to Ruflia, in leffer to Germany. There is alfo a large confump-tion here of India piece goods, fupplied by the company of Armenians, at Conftantinople; nor are thefe the only considerable objects of fpeculation. We tarried all this day Monday the 9th of October, and on Tuefday the 10th at eight o'clock in the morning we refumed our journey. One of the hind wheels of our coach had been newly hooped, and other reparations made fo as to give us greater confidence in our vehicle we beo;an to deicend the rock. In iffuin^ from the town, we immediately found ourfelves on a very long bridge over the Marizza, which having paffcd, our way lay between fields of rice, juft gathering and treading out. In fix: hours hours we arrived at Bazarjeek, a large town oa the plain confpicuous by reafon of its moiques and gilded domes, and admirable for the beauty of its fituation. We were lodged in the bifhop's palace, and from a * Kiofk to the weifward, commanded the nneit view of a cam-pania without exception in my knowledge, that this country affords. Clofe under our window ran a gentle if ream, and further on united with the main body of the river. Near the junction is a wooden bridge, enlivened by a constant con-courfe of people on foot or on horfe back, and with carriages, inceffantly palling and repairing. The view extends over this plain or rather beautiful lawn, which is pleafingly interfperfed with clumps of trees, to the foot of the Balkan mountain ; thence gradually attending, and dif-playing a diversified fcene of ruffic art and nature, ftill enchanting to the very top. Near this town is the mine of iron I have fpoken of, which is faid to be very productive. It is open to the induftry of every adventurer, the fultan takes no heed of it; why he permits others to work it, is a mystery to thofe who know the principles of his government not to be explained j but cer- * A Turkifh fummer-houfq. tain i 81 ] tain it is any one may enjoy the fruits of it. On Wedncfday morning (nth October) at fun-rife we left this town, but the fame fcene was before us, we proceeded along the plain, drawing gradually to a Cul de Sac, and in two hours came to riling grounds, conftantly increasing in acclivity towards the fummit, and near the top growing extremely difficult and fteep. At four in the evening, without any accident, we reached Palanka, a Turkifh village of three houfes, on the fummit of the Balkan, and took our station for the night. Our belt choice was the common stable, and very calmly and contentedly we took up with it; fpread our carpet, and patiently fubmitted to this hard, but fome-times neceffary lot of travellers. Before night came on however, we amufed ourfelves with walking about the hills; obferved fome vestiges of an ancient tower, collected fome wood for kindling a fire, and when tired withdrew to reft. We got over the apparent hardships of our situation, an'd at fun-rife were well recruited for profecuting our next day's adventures. Thurfday the 12th October, we let off to com-pleat our paffage over the mountain, leaving a horfe behind, worn out with toil. This Balkan, which i have heard fo often talked of, as r the E $2 ] the impaflible barrier and defence of the Turkifh dominions in Europe ; is, if no better barrier is to be oppofed to the power of their nearett neighbour, in my opinion, a bad dependence indeed. From the fummit, beginning the defcent, is fecn a beautiful meadow, and about its center a town, with a fmgle xnofque in it, called Iflernam. We arrived there at noon, and dined; but thought fit to force our march to a village, four hours further, in order to reach Sophia with more certainty and eafe, in the courfe of the next day. Our horfes were the worfe for it, we got however to Bakreglee, a town in Servia. This place is fituated among fome oak plantations, upon the hills, at a diftance from the road. The people are robuft, and thought rude, but they feem to poffefs their competency. In departing from this horde the next morning (Friday 13th October) we had to defcend a moil rugged and Unbeaten tract of road, and could only have paifed fafely over it with the afiiilance of a dozen of thefe ruilics, which they readily afforded us. It employed us two hours, when we were brought in view of the valley of Sophia. It exhibits a very charming profpect, as the foil is rich, and covered with a delightful ver- dure; dure; feveral villages contribute to adorn the profpect, and beyond all, the city of Sophia. The mountain of Vetofa, well known for its minerals, and the river rifing from its bowels; make two additional and interefting objects in this landfcape. When the rains are heavy, a variety of metallic ores, and often of pure gold, are brought down by the torrent. A fpring of hot water runs through the city, and is converted into a bath, for the conveniertcy of the inhabitants. Upon conversing with the archimandrite on the fubject of the gold mine, he aim red me, that eight villages gained aeonftant fubiiftence from rifting the fands brought down by the rains, and frequently were found among them precious ftones of considerable value. Such a treafure offering to the eager avidity of the Turk, made it a matter of wonder to me, how the officers of the Porte mould neglect it; and begging the prieft to inform me of the reafon of it, he folved it in the following manner. Their avidity, he faid, refpecting this matter, was the caufe of their reaping no advantage from it, for the workmen being too poorly paid for their labour, concealed the fruits of it, and would take no pains to multiply their difcoveries', The officers alfo, who were R 2 employed [ «4 I employed in collecting thefe riches, were too much tempted by the facility of enriching themfelves, to be true to their truft ; and re-prefenting the deficiences which were caufed bv their infidelity, to the poverty of the mine; laid government under the neceffity of abandoning the purfuit. So true it is, that in a" matter of fir ft moment to alj governments, and in which the fpirit of Turkifh prerogative can know no bounds, but indulges every fpe-cies of violence; the want of judgment defeats their aim. No circumftance in the hiftory of Turkifh mini (try, can give fo ftrong a proof of the infufhciency of their fyftem, as this : they cannot gather, where nature has profufely bellowed her gifts; but like true defpots, cut down the tree, to get at the fruit—It is the nature of all defpotifm. We left Sophia, on Saturday (14th October) at fan-rife, and our journey lay along a fine country, exhibiting all over the face of it, quite to the road fide, an exuberance of wild itrawberry plants, which owing to the clemency of the feafon, were generally in bloffom. In fix hours we got to Kul Kallah, and halted to recruit our horfes for a march of fix hours farther* ther. There is a large khan in this place, bat 'decaying fa ft. We proceeded in an hour, and loon penetrated among the mountains; our road lying through a chafm, apparently formed by fome ftrong convulfion of nature. The road was bad, we therefore could proceed but flowly, and cbnfequentjy it was late and dark when we arrived at Sari Buroot, where we dept. The next morning, Sunday (15th October) at fun-rife we departed, and pafTed over a hilly country in about four" hours to Sharquoi, where we were well entertained. Our room was by the fide of a prifon, where a dozen of gypfies were chained together by the neck; men and women indifcriminately, in order to extort a tribute from them. We refted two hours, and continued our journey over hills, to Ak-Palanka. In this laft ftage we met the courier going to Conftantinople, and were happy by his means, to fend fome tidings of our progrefs to our friends. Our lodging at this place was worfe than ufual, and made us very impatient for the return of day. On Monday the 16th October at day break we refumed our journey. The firft part of it was over mountains and bad road^ to Banaquoi, where where we dined, and in one hour and a half more arrived at the bifhop's palace at Nifha. Another horfe worn out; the other three almost exhaufted, and requiring red. The bi-Ihop received us with infinite politenefs and urbanity; wifhed us to flay a week with him, and did every thing in his power to engage us to comply with his requeff. He preffed us to attend divine fervice the next morning at his church, promifing to officiate himfelf by way of eivine an air of folemnity to the occafion, and in every refpect took great pains to entertain and honour us. His name is Maccarius, nearly allied to the reigning prince of Wallachia. fie has travelled into RufTia and pretends to a perfect knowledge of the ancient Greek literature. The women here wear caps in the fhape of helmets, compofed of quantities of paras*, fining together into that form. This is the capital of great Servia. We left it on Wednefday morning (18th October) at eight o'clock, and in two hours entered the fkirts of the famous wood of Belgrade : during the courfe of this day's march, the appearance of the country was fometimes open, fometimes clofed in * A fmall Turkifh coin. with with wood. We dined at Alikiinfa, fix hours ride from Niffa, and went four hours further on to Reifna. The road was tolerably good; but the iky grew cloudy and threatened us with rain ; a circumftance of all things moft to be dreaded in the wood, as the roads in that cafe arc rendered aim oft impaffible. We reached Reifna however before it began, but foon after, and during the whole night, it never ceafed for a moment. We were under a very bad roof, in a large barn or ftable, in a kind of watch loft, and with the profpect of being detained there, moft unpleafantly fituated indeed. It cleared up in the morning (Thurfday 19th October) and we fet off, but the roads were deep, our horfes fulky, our tackling bad, and every thing crofs. With the utmoft difficulty, we arrived in fix hours, after breaking our coach pole, and much of our harnefs, to Parakin j four hours fhort of the appointed place ; where we took up our night's abode : all this while in the wood. The iky grew ferene and a ftrong wind arofe which continued all night, very much to our advantage, and on Friday morning (20th October) before fun-rife, we again purfued our journey. In two hours we reached a town on the river Morva, and ferried over it, and and immediately entered the thick of the wood leading to Zaghadina, where we dined, and afterwards to Bagherdena, to pafs the night. This day's journey of eight hours, was over considerable hills, covered with lofty oak; but as the weather proved fine, the journey was not fo gloomy and difagreeable, as it would other-wile have been. Next morning, Saturday, 21ft October, we fet off again early, and marched flill through the wood to Haffan Bafha Palanka, where we paffed the night; and on Sunday, 22d October, as early as poffible, proceeded by Golan and Krotzka to Zweybruchen, where we flept. On Monday morning, 23d October, by eleven o'clock, we arrived at Belgrade. Our janizary had preceded us to get the Balha's paffport, for leave to pafs the confines, and met us by the fide of the Danube, with a Junk, prepared to take us acrofs to Semlin. We got there at about one o'clock the fame day, and reforted immediately to the place allotted for our quarantine. We had letters of introduction to the Baron de Sturm, commandant of Semlin; and he and his lady did us the honour of a vifit the fame after- afternoon, offering us every affittance and indulgence, the nature of our confinement would admit of. Semlin is a fmall town, fituated upon the peninfula, between the rivers Danube and Sa-va, juft at the conflux of both, and immediately oppofite the town of Belgrade, which has been the theatre of fome of the great exploits of prince Eugene. The Lazzaretto or infirmary, is upon a low point of land neareft to the river; having the town at the back of it. The rooms are fuf-ficient for the accommodation of paffengers, but unavoidably damp and unhealthy, they are warmed by ffoves, which make another inconvenience equally intolerable ; for the air fo rari-fied by a heat impregnated with the metallic properties of the ftove, fell directly upon our lungs, and nearly fuffocated us; which obliged us to renounce our fires. The weather towards the firfl part of our time in thrs place was fine, and we had liberty to make fhort excurfions into the country, in a carriage or on foot, upon promife of obferving S the [ go } the ftri&eft distance from all we met, and having a guard to accompany us. We were too eager of this privilege for our good, for walking too far on a cold day, to fee a riming party; ]yjrs# g-was feized with an illnefs, which, in its confequences, embittered our journey the whole way from Semlin to Vienna. The Lazzaretto, which is built upon a large fpot of ground, and is very fpacious, is generally pretty well filled with merchandize imported from Turky. During our If ay we were varioufly' entertained ; a fair was to be held, juft upon our terminating the quarantine, and people were affembled to attend it of all denominations, and from very diftant parts. There was among the reft, a company of itinerant merchants, that had wandered from the mountain of Tirrol; uniting at the fame time, their mercantile and mufical talents, and blending and improving them both for the common good. This company came to our quarters in the lazzaretto, and entertained us with their mufic. A woman accompanied them upon the harp, and thp whole party playing upon various inftruments, and and having a good choice of airs gave us com pleat fatisfact ion. It cod us two florins, and they were fatisfied. Having performed our three weeks quarantine, we were happy to quit immediately the cold and comfortlefs fituation we were in, for an appartment offered us by the director of the quarantine in his own dwelling. Mrs. B--- had been very ill for feveral days with a feverr and was yet in a very critical ftate. We fpent a few days in this fituation with very little ifiVn of her amendment, and at length refolved to fet off. We bought a four-wheeled chaife of the director, but the body nothing more than that of a common whifky, old and impaired in every part of it. We left Semlin in the rain and were from ten o'clock in the morning, till ten at night, creeping and plunging, along before we got to a place of fliel-ter. We were to have been conveyed in fix hours to Peterwaradin, and inftead of that, with joy we put up with a room in a cabaret at Petfche almofl overflowed with rain. It had a long table in it, fuch as is found in the moft wretched of public houfes, and thereon I fpread our carpet, Mrs, B--- being reduced to make S 2 it it her bed for the reft of the night. I for my part laid myfelf down upon the bench by the tide of it, fummoning to my aid all the patience and refignation that was wanted to endure a fituation fo full of complicated diftrefs. We fet out as early as we could next day and arrived at Peterwaradin about twelve o'clock at noon; Mrs. B--continued very ill, but being houfed at a tolerable auberge, we fent for a phyiician to prefcribe for her. She refted all that day and night, and next morning had fpi-rits enough to defire to go forward but with the fever ftill upon her, the weather was rather finer and we ventured on. The roads were fo bad it was with difficulty we got along; our way lay for the moft part by the Danube fide. We got to Glofhan where we changed horfes and went on to Kerakatfch; but here they detained us fix hours while the horfes could be got; they were conveying wood for the poft mafter. The weather was fine which heightened our chagrin beyond bearing, and the in-Yiifference of the people at the poft houfe almoft drove us to defpair: at length they made their appearance and we got to the next ftage Patfch. We had no long delay here, but our horfes were very unwilling to get on. They carried us through through the town, and near a mile beyond it, but in eroding a bridge of loofe timber laid acrofs a deep ditch, they turned fo fhort as to bring one of the hind wheels of our chaife upon the timber ends, and canted them up, fo as nearly to overfet us in the ditch. I faw the danger before we came exactly upon it, and jumped out with Mrs. B-juft in time to efcape the fall. I ftopt the poftilion inftantly, and by jumping into the ditch, and putting props under the timber ends, the carriage got fafe over the bridge and we remounted. We had not gone far however before our horfes became reftive, and turning out of the road, ran us into a bog clofe by the fide of the Danube; every effort to get out for many hours was vain, but at length with the afliftance of two additional horfes, and the prefence of the poft mafter himfelf we got back to the poft houfe, where the woman of the houfe did all (lie could to relieve and comfort us. She made Mrs. B-fome broth, and gave up her own bed for the whole night. The next morning early we were able to proceed, and endeavoured to recover our chaife and baggage which we had been obliged to leave flicking in the mud ex-pofed to be plundered by the firft paffenger. We made C 94 ] made fevcral attempts to drag the carriage back, but the horfes were unequal to it. It had fet-tied at leaft four feet in the mud, fo that we could not move it for feveral hours. It was Sunday morning, and fome very ftout peafants, a dozen at leaft, parting to the town to church, I begged their aid and offered them money: they fat their fhoulders to it, and relieved us at once; having got us into the right way again, one of them taking Mrs. B--. into his arms, carried her over the bad road to the carriage. We thanked them as our deliverers, gave them what contented them, and were glad to get on again. We got to Novafella and from thence to Vukovar; we had no provifion with us, nor could we afk for any, but by figns; we walked into the poft-mafter's kitchen at Vukovar, though it was otherwife no public houfe, and there being feveral pipkins on the fire with foups and flews, we expreffed a defire to partake of them. The cook-maid who faw us and under-ftood us very well, was inflexible to our demands; all that we could get of her for an anfwer was nix, nix; I therefore helped myfelf, and before Mrs. B--. could get the foup to her lips, fhe fainted in my arms; this fcene excited the woman's compaffion, and with the relief relief (he brought, we were in an hour or two, enabled to proceed. Our next ftage was EfTek, but we had yet to furmount many difficulties: the way lay over a wide common, and night coming on, we got out of the road, and went round, and round, for hours in the fame circle'; at length we heard the found of horfes feet, by the direction of which, we were once more put into the high road: about three o'clock in the morning we got into the town, and were carried to a lamentable beerhoufe, where we were glad to find a place of reft. Mrs. B-— had fuffered the utmoft agonies during this journev, and was apparently breathing her laft. At day light I fallied forth to get fome aflift-ance, and the poft-mafter being near, I recom-< mended myfelf to him. He had a good houfe., and very humanely offered to accommodate me with a room, and the domeftic comforts that his family afforded; I very happily embraced it, and returning to Mrs. B--, took her in my arms, and removed her to this hofpitable dwelling. The name of the poft-mafter to whom we were fo much indebted, was Franco-laki; I got proper medical advice, and every other defirable afliftance, and was happy enough, on the 17th day, to fee the fever which had never never intermitted, compleatly diflodged. We Were vifited and invited by the commandant of the placeGeneral Mattheifan and feveral of the officers and their ladies, and were enabled in a few days, to leave the place, full of gratitude and admiration of the benevolent treatment and hofpitality of the good people of EfTek, We exchanged our carriage here, and again pur-fued our route. The poft from hence to Vienna are as follows: from Effek to Baraniwar, the roads were deep and very bad; next to Siclos, to Funff kirken; to Geofziget, to Iftvandi, to Babofea, to Prefnitz, to Iharos, to Canifea, to Kahath, to Szala EgefTek, to Kerment, to Stein, to Am Anger, to Gunz, to Grofwarafdoff, to Edenbourg, to Grofholflein, to Wimpaffeing, to Hochan, to Vienna. A JOURNEY FROM CONSTANTINOPLE to ALEPPO, B Y George Baldwin, Efq; It is neceffary to obtain a Firrnan or order from the Porte before you can be furnifhed with poft. horfes. The method obferved by Franks (by which appellation all Europeans are' diftinguifhed in Turky) is to apply to their refpective minifler by whofe direction it is demanded of the Porte, and always granted: but any fubject of the Empire may obtain it by direct application to the Vizir, and upon paying a fee of three Crufh and a half (or js. 6d.) to the clerk. i obtained mine by this means, T and and at fevcn o'clock in the morning of the ritrs ©f May, 1780, left the Metropolis in a boat, and croffed the Hellefpont to Scuder, or Scutari, the Chryfopolis of the ancients. Mr. —-1 3 painter by profeffion, myfelf, Selim Aga a Tartar guide, Emin Aga who begged my efcort; my fervant Matthew, an Armenian, and two poft boys, called Serugees, compofed my party. At half paft eight we mounted, and on our way paffed Malteffa, Fe-nar, Cartel, and at Bendik we ftopped and re-frefbed. The Turks have proportioned their distance to time, and by my general obfervatioiij it turned out about four miles to the hour: in riding poft through, they often run down three hours in one, : The appearance of the country to the left, or North Eaft; is a gentle afcent over hills, leading to the foot of very high mountains. The foil feems good, is well cultivated, and the vegetation much forwarder, than in Europe, though at fo fmall a diftance from it. All the way on our right we had a view of the fea of Marmora, the princes iflands, the gulph of Ifmit, the coaft of Mandania, and naount Olympus, At five o'clock in the even-in ? 0 5ng we arrived at Gheibize, the full Menzel Khane, or pod houfe from Scudcr. It muff be remarked, that we were all equip-ped as Tartars, and were from long intercourfe with the Turks, pretty well able to fupport our difguife. We were enjoying our pipes and coffee at this place, and compofed in fact for the evening; but this was to be a jcurney of adventures, and the arrival of a certain Ofman Aga, on his way from Aleppo to Conftantinople opened the firft fcene. He brought with him the baggage of an Englifh gentleman, who had accompanied him to the ftage before, but had ftrayed from his party, and might probabfy, he faid have fallen among thieves, as he had been miffing from two o'clock in the morning. I looked into the baggage to find by fome fuperfcription of letters, who the perfon might be, by which I difcovered him to be a Captain James Smyth. The circumstance engaged one to mount, though tired, to go in fearch of him. We paffed a village after two hours march called Mallum, and further on to a ferry, where we embarked with our horfes, and failed acrofs an arm of the gulph of Nicomedia, courfe fouth eaft, to a low point T 2 of ( of land on the oppofite fhore; diftant only a quarter of an hour's walk from a hamlet, called Herfik. This travcrfe which we performed in three quarters of an hour, avoids a fix hour's round by land, and in winter, is fometimes fo boifterous, as to be impaflable for days together. My fir ft bufinefs at this place was to enquire for my diftrefled countryman, and I was almoft in-fiantly gratified by finding him inafolitary coffee houfe, extended on a mat afleep; I called to him by his name. He ftarted, ftared, and looked aftonifhed, as if he ftill thought himfelf in a dream. This gentleman had been in India, aid de camp to General Egerton, and had arrived thus far on his way to England. He had been moft cruelly beaten by the man that accompanied him acrofs the defert from Baffora to Aleppo, and from thence, by collufion with his Tartar guide, had forced his company upon him, in fpite of all the precaution he had taken to avoid it. They had travelled difagreeably together as far as Kiz dovrene, but on the road from this place, which is notorious, I am told, for robbers; both this man and the guide fet upon him, and forced him to fly for fiifety to the woods. He concealed himfelf there till day light, and then crept into a corn field by the road road fide, whence he efpied a hofpitable pafTcn-ger, an honed Boftangee, who conducted him to the place he was in when I found him. He little expected when he laid down in this fituation, furrounded by a people he knew nothing of, and full of apprehenilons of further ill treatment, ignorant of their language, and helplefs in many other refpects, that he mould be roufed by a countryman feeking to relieve him, and adminifter fuccour to his diftreft. It appeared to him, as I faid before, the effect of a dream, and he was long awake before he could be undeceived. When informed of my name, he knew it, and appeared rejoiced to fee me. It is flattering to obferve a public prevention in one's favour! I refcued Mr. Smyth from the people of Herfek who were unwilling to give him up; nor till I had threatened to return to Conftantinople to complain, would they releafe him. I procured him a boat, and a trufty perfon to attend him, when he had embarked, and I law him fet fail for Conftantinople (it was twelve o'clock at night) I returned to my quarters and laid me down to reft. At half baft four in the morning (12th May) I refumed my journey over hills and dales, a four four hours ride, to Klz dovrene. The nightingales, which in this country ling all day, and are near every fhaded brook, are lb numerous, and their notes fo fweet -y as to make the ride a fpecies of enchantment. The village we are now at, is inhabited by Bulgarians, and is fituated on a hill, furrounded by higher hills, and near the foot of an ancient ruined caille. Thefe people are independent, and preferve their original cuftoms. Their women go unveiled, are free, jocofe, and of a complexion and forward-nefs, that befpeaks no apprehenfion of infuit or violation. We breakfafted with this Amazonian tribe, upon eggs and milk, and proceeded on our journey with the fame horfes towards Chiniilik. The road is the greateft part over hills, enriched with fpontaneous odoriferous ihrubs, and pleafant, if excefs can pleafant be, to the extreme. When you come to the defcent, the profpecf is delightful. On your right appears a vaft lake, adorned with a rich verdent margin; in front, at the eaft end of the lake, the city of Chiniilik ; and to the left, promifcuoufly dif-perfed on rifing grounds, in a femi-circular view, a variety or villages, beautifully environed by variegated lands, and cattle brouzing on the fummit. It was ten o'clock when we reached the the city. You enter among fome vcfiiges of a ruined wall, and on a fquare tower, high up, is feen a Greek infcription : nothing in the town elfe did I fee worth remarking. We got frefh horfes, and mounted at four o'clock; our road lay along the middle of a rich valley, and on each fide adorned with walnut trees, a fmall rivulet running between. The cultivation on each fide, the mountains, to their utmoft fcope, appearing more extended, and giving a livelier picture of induftry, than I had met with in any other part of Turky. After an hour's ride in the valley, we began to afcend the hill to the right, and at the top, were brought in profpect of the BrufFa road; only fix hours diftant from the capital of that name, once the royal refidence of the Sultans : it is defcribed by a river running at the foot of it. This river has its fource in mount Olympus, and is increafed by the hot fprings of BrufFa, and the diffolving fnows from the heights above it. It flows northward to the Black Sea, and enlivened our profpect all the way to Leuke (our third poft-houfe) a city of fome note for its manufactures. We did not arrive before ten o'clock at night, fatigued and hungry. We fupped on pilo and ftewed fowl, our invariable fare, and refted like travellers worn down with • fatigue. fatigue. At four in the morning (13th May) we mounted, and as We rode along the, town, could fee the world in motion. Many of the inhabitants are Chriftiaus, and their houfes ipa-cious; the river runs at the bottom of the town. Beyond it on the banks, were planted for a long tract, the white mulberry tree, for the nourifhment of filk worms ; for in this territory is produced large quantities of ftlk, which finds its way to Europe, under the denomination of Bruifa filk; and for its goodnefs is in high repute. We palled a very delightful valley, well watered and interfperfed with trees during the fir ft part of this poft ; and towards the end, over a very fteep and difficult mountain. The road is level on the top for a good llretch, but we foon came to a fhed occupied by a guard, who were provided with frefh water, and fuch fruit as the fituation would enable them to procure, for the convenience of the traveller. We met here half a dozen men, whom we fhould have been very forry to have met upon the road : fellows that had been difmiffed from the fervice of the Bafha of Trebizond ; and who, in their ftate of dereliction, arc known to have recourfe, for ful?-fiftence, to every fpecies of violence. It is the cafe all over the Turkifh empire, when any Bafha ma is depofed, his mercenaries are difchafged, and under the denomination ofcopfifies, or men at leiiiire, go a free booting upon the public, until they are rein dated in fome other employ ; they then plunder for their matter* for their avocation is to defpoil. Thefe men eyed us with looks of rapine, but they faw us armed; they took the road we came, and we proceeded on our journey. This was a poft of ten hours to Sekut (fourth poft-houfe.) Near this place, and in view of it, is buried the fir ft of the Ottoman race, the great Ali Ofman Padefha. Mis tomb appears at about half a mile diftant from the poft houfe, by an iron pallifading, and a plantation of lofty cypreffes. We mounted at five in the afternoon, rode over mountains, and latterly over a fine plain, to Elkee Shaher (fifth poft-houfe.) As we were feafoned a little to riding by this time, we accelerated our rate, and performed this poft in feven hours; which brought us in at twelve o'clock at night. Upon the fofa in the room to which we had been ufhered, lay a Turkifh guittar, ahum-drum kind of a thing to European ears, but temptation enough to divert Selim from his inclination to reft. He ftrung it to his voice, and with an hilarity of fong, which Yorick would have har- U monized monizcd to the fineft feelings, he charmed away the night. At dawn we tallied forth to view the baths; and the morning difclofcd to us a city beautifully fituated on the acclivity of a hill, commanding a wide expanded view over a fruitful, well watered plain. A copious fource of natural hot water riles in the iliirts of the city, and unites its ffream with a considerable river, flowing to the fouthward. The baths are built over the fpring; but where the waters iffue, to the place of their junction with the river, all along its courfe, the poor inhabitants are employed in great numbers, in fuch offices of neceffary and ufeful ablution, as the conveniency and importance of fuch a benefit, muff unavoidably fuggeff. I bathed in thefe celebrated hot baths, and drank of the waters; both were reported to have efficacies conducive to health. In effect, I can vouch for their property of immediately operating all the good purpofes ofeafe and relaxation. I was as delaffe in half an hour ; as if my ride had been only ten, inftead of two hundred miles. It was a fortunate refrefhment, for we got but indifferent horfes here; but we made them go notwithffanding in ten hours, over hills, and a pleafanter, becaufe a varied foil, to Saidi Khazzee, (6th poft-houfe.) This place is E i°7 1 is diffinguifhed by a large fquare building, with a magnificent mofque in it, on the top of a hill. It took its name from a furprizing fanton, who, by the tradition of the Sheick, molt marvel-loufly confined a gigantic fpirit, that had done incredible ravages, and was the terror of the country round about. The daughter of Soly-rnan the Great, had it declared to her in a virion, that if flie would make a pilgrimage to this fpot, and dedicate upon it, a mofque to the prophet; the Sheick fhould be endued with power to {hackle this fpirit, whereby the people fhould be relieved: all which was regularly complied with, and^fulfilled. The Sheick gave the painter and myfelf a paper of white powder each (part of the giant's bonespulverifed, I fuppofe) which had the property of preferving us againft danger. We took it and gave him alms, which is the only valuable property it had in effect. " That *< of drawing from the credulity of the ignorant, '* or the complaifance of the enlightened, a tri-" bute which contributed to his affluence and « fupport." We left this place at four in the afternoon, and becaufe at the next poft-houfe, the horfes could not be got in from pasture before a delay of ten hours, we croffed the country directly over mountains and through woods to U 2 the the place where they were. We were nine hours, which detained us until one in the morning. CorfafF Bafha is the name of the feventh poft-houfe ; but we deviated to an itinerant horde. We roufed the chief from his cabbin, com-pofcd of the trunks of fir trees, laid as they were hewn down, one upon another, in a fquare figure ten feet high; and covered at top with the branches and leaves: it had a chimney place formed with mud and ffone, and a glo-rioub he in it. We took his place, lighted our pipes, made fome coffee, ordered our horfes to be got by morning, defired fome eggs and milk might be provided for breakfaft, and then resigned ourfelves to fleep. At day light, Hadgee Muftafa, Menzel Aga of Cofruff Bafha, a man of a very refpeclable appearance joined our party. After fome conversation, by which he had difco-vered that we were Franks, he entertained us with a very unexpected breakfaft, for he had his family . mong the horde, and flocks and herds abounding ..bout him: he told us alfo of a wondrous o budding in the neighbourhood of the place, on which frank characters were infcribed; and which muft have been erected, he faid, before the Turks had driven the Infidels (Ghiaours) from the country. It was only an hour's ride, and and he propofed to lend us horfes and to conduct tjs thither. Mr.--, the painter, and myfelf mounted, and followed our good old Turk to this fragment of antiquity. We proceeded over a hill, and through a wood of pines, to a fmall valley, in which a rivulet runs, fupplied by water oozing from an ancient nquaduct ; and two hills in the form of fugar loaves, on which are the ruins of two ancient towers. Thefe were not the objects our Aga had intimated for our ob-fervation. He led us further to a ground af-cending to the foot of a rock, making the extreme angle of a chain of inferior mountains. As we approached, it exhibited a beautiful ornamental facade, engraved on a polifhed furface of the rock. It feemed to have been a work antecedent to the claffical inftitutions in architecture; but regular, fublime, and bold. On the extreme right margin of the facade, beginning about one fourth of the height from the ground, and wrote tideways upwards to about one third of the top, is a clear and diftinct infcription of ancient characters ; There appears another on the projected cornifh, over the upper part of the left fide of the facade, but fome of the characters effaced, the reft very clear. I offer no conjecture as to the intentions of [ H? ] of their authors; but give the fad, and leave the comment to antiquarians. The depth of the rock, for it projects from the great mafs of the mountain, and is palpable on three fides of it, is no more than twenty feet: and appears, excepting the poliflied and engraved facade in its rude, irregular and natural fhape, without a fign of excavation, or the vefiige of a building. I had a thought at firft indeed, that, as it faced to the eaft, it might have been a monument of pagan worfhip : but further on, is another in the fame ftyle, of lefs magnitude and beauty, facing the north, which again ftaggered my opinion. I may conclude with fafety, that, let what will be meant by it, it prefents at leaft to the contemplation of the curious, a fingular, magnificent and lafting view of the then ftate of ornamental architecture. The wThen, and by whom, as before obferved, is left to thedecifion of the curious and learned. In a line parallel to the facade, northward at about one hundred and fifty paces diftant, is another rock, ifolated, and of a conical form, exhibiting as many cavities of the fame nature with thofe of the catacombs near the pyramids of E-gypt, as the folid rock could poflibly contain. I entered t H. ] entered into many, but none communicated with the others. They have all a variety of niches, lome more, fome lefs, as the number expected to be depofited therein, required the labour of making them; and leave no room to doubt, that they were receptacles for the dead. They are now receptacles for the living, for I found a bird's neft in one of them with feveral young, but I thought there was more piety in leaving them undifturb-ed, than impiety in disturbing the infenfible dead. We returned to the hamlet at half paft one in the afternoon, and mounted our horfes at two, very well fatisfied with our digression and difco-very. The old man, in the idea which is generally entertained by the inhabitants of the Eaft, that all Franks are doctors or conjurors; held out his pulfe, which I directed to the painter, as having fomething more intenfe in his phiz, to know if he was well. As it generally turns out, that people act from impulfe, and only afk the advice of doctors when they want it; I told Mr. -. to recommend a dofe of rhubarb, with which he was provided, to cool the old man's blood : he faid it was very wife and proper, thanked us, and bid us farewel. Ws We pa/Ted through woods and over mountains, three hours march before ws got into the high road. Proceeding, we law to the left of us, or north fide of the road, many cavities in the rocks, of the fame appearance of thofe I defcribed in the laft ftage ; but leading one into the other to infinity. The entrance to thefe caverns is fmall, but fome of them may be capable of containing three hundred horfe. Further on ftands a rock, fingly, and of a fugar-loaf form, excavated and difpofed in fuch regular apartments, as, my guide faid, had acquired it the appellation of Seraija or palace. Thefe places, it is faid, were inhabited by banditti, and I faw on the way fide near them, a large number of fepulchral flones, ftained with red, to denote that the blood of thofe, that were there interred, was fpilt by violence. Jt took us thirteen hours to Ballawadin (eighth poft houfe) where we retted till feven o'clock, Tuefday morning the 16th of May. It was here that upon our arrival, a fellow addreffing himfelf to me as head of the party, proceeded without further ceremony to fhampoo me. It is a cuftom in the Turkifh baths to prefs with both hands upon every limb and joint, and by crofting and bending them to their utmoft flretch, bring the mufcles to their proper tone : it does not produce the moft agreeable able fenfations during the operation, but, after hard riding, is the compleateft restorative to strength and vigor that can be imagined*. The road from this place is acrofs a plain, for the molt part under water; a bridge however, compofed of a great number of arches over the deepen: part of it, affords a dry paffage to the traveller. In this part of the country grows the poppy, from which opium is made; fruitful and ex-tenfive crops were ripening to the expecting pea-fant's with. Having croffed the plain and being arrived at the foot of the oppofite mountains, we followed their direction, and were refreshed and delighted, by patting over at fhort intervals, plentiful torrents of water, nourished by the melting fnow on the mountain heighths and running into the plain. In fix hours we arrived at Iffaklee (ninth poft houfe) and dined, but loft no time. We refum-ed our journey with frefh horfes, and proceeded along the fame delightful plain, ftill copioufly fupplied at little diftances by torrents of refrefh-ing water, from the fnow-top'd mountains, all the • Vide Letter, p. 28. X way t "4 3 way to Afkefhaher—only feven hours' ride from the laft poft houfe and the tenth from Conftantinople. This is the firft town in Caramania, fituated at the foot and in the chafm of a mountain. It gave birth to the famous Naffer il Din, celebrated for his great wit and pleafantry. His fpirit is invoked as the genius of the place; and they report of him, that unlefs certain unremitted attentions are paid to him by the inhabitants, he caufes the freth winds to ceafe, and reduces them to defpair. In his life time the great Zingis Khan paffed before the town, and Naffer il Din was deputed by the inhabitants to appear before him, and to pay their homage to him. But as the cuftom of the Eaft makes it criminal to go into the prefence of the Great for the firft time without fome tribute, and the poverty of the place could offer nothing but the fruit in feafon; old Naffer i! Din had a difpute with his wife, whether he fhould take pomegranates or figs: (lie was for the former, but he took the figs, in which he had good caufe to triumph; for when he prefented the figs, the conqueror ordered his people to throw them one by one at his head; and for every one that hit him, he v/as obferved to make a folcmn thankf- giving giving to God. Zingis Khan could not refrain from demanding the reafon of this from the phi-lofopher, who explained himfelf by faying, that if he had brought the pomegranates, his wife would have had caufe to triumph, by feeing him return with his head broken. It muft have been therefore the work of Providence that infpired him totake the figs in oppoiition to her opinion; whom, for quiet fake, he had humoured in every other inftance of his life. Zingis Khan, for this witticifm endowed him with the fovereignty of the place, and which has been facred to his memory ever fince. From the town we defcended again to the fame fine plain, and after ten hours ride, that is, at one o'clock in the morning, we reached II Ghaun (eleventh poft houfe) 17th of May; three hours reft fufliced us. At four we mounted to proceed on a ftage of eighteen hours. The firfl part over uneven ground, though a rich foil, to Khabung Khane, and fo on to Ladik, a town half way. It was time to reft and recruit our horfes and our-felves for nine hours further ftretch, upon nine hours already performed with the lame horfes, was fomething redoubtable both to man and beaff. In two hours however on we went. Our road X 2 was was over little hills about half the way. At near fun- let we came in fight of Conia, then at a great diftanoe, (landing majefticly on an extenfive plain, once the feat of empire. The eye is wearied with this view. A mountain ftands lingly in the center of the plain, feeming from riling vapours in the vaft expanfe, a fhapelefs cloud. As we approached, our objects difappeared. Night dropped her veil and clofed the fcene. The way grew tedious as our nags grew weary, for nothing is fo irkfome as a jaded horfe. Fatigue, and fome little inconveniences from long inceflant riding, made me feverilh, but a few hours reft repaired all that. Temperance of living, and abftinence from wine, are neceffary rules to be obferved in travelling. To thefe I afcribe my good ftate of health, and the facility with which I endured the fatigues, the hots, and hardships of the journey : it was ten at night before we got to Conia. The poft houfe (being the 12th) is without the walls of the city, not to interfere with the difciplineof fortified towns, nor impede the courfe of public intelligence and difpatch. This city ftands about half way between Conftantinople and Aleppo, and [ "7 3 and makes a diftance by my computation of near five hundred miles. Having performed it in eight days, fome little indulgence might confcientioufly betaken; we therefore determined to fpend the night and next day, at Conia. The walls are not fo ruined as the generality of thole city walls which have fallen under the Tuikifh yoke : there are many baflions yet complete, and many monuments of the power and paffage of Sultan Amurath over this country. There are divers pieces of fculp-ture inferted in the walls, and particularly a coat of arms,, having two fpread eagles for fupporters and another for the creft, incomparably well engraved. On the wall leading to the right from the principal gate, are two figures of lions, as big again as life, projecting from the wall, turned towards each other, and, by their attitude and expreflion, feeming eager to attack. Many indications are apparent of its having been a great and powerful city, and indeed the fituation is fuch, as with induflry and good government, to be fufceptible of the higheft attainment of grandeur and opulence. Before Before I take my leave of Conia, I muff remark fomething on the inftitutibn of public poft houfes all over the Turkifh empire. The afto-nifhing heaps of bones and Skeletons of horfes difperfed in and about the yard of this poft houfe, particularly, made i-t occur to me as an object worthy of enquiry. It being one of the principal fprings of all governments, and effential to a defpot, to be well informed of the fluctuations in the inferior orders of the ftate; this public regulation the only one which is well followed up in Turky, has been eftablifhed all over the empire. In fuch towns on all the high roads as are at convenient diftances, a number of horfes are ftationed for the Grand Signors Tartars, or the Tartars of any of the Bafhas ; or any of the Sultans officers of note; or any fubject, or ftranger who may be furnifhed with orders to that effect from the fupreme Vizir, or the governors of provinces whofe authority your fituation may make you Jftand in need of. Every horfe, for every hour's diftance, ftands you in ten afpers or two pence halfpenny; and the guide in ten afpers for each horfe for the whole ftage : fo that a fingle traveller E ll9 I veJIer with his guide going a ftage of ten hours will pay for the two horfes - - o£. 4^. 2 in half an hour we mounted and purfued our journey together. The mountains are adorned with iiumberf fs pines fantuftically planted, affording a moft delightful icene. In the courfe of the 3 a ft feven hours, the two chains of mountains which environ the great plain of Conia, and which my memory can trace back to the plains of Bulla Wadinj having gradually approached each other, and now from an eaftward direction, turn rapidly to the fouth, and round the intermediate points of the compafs quite to fouth-weft, and in this direction continue. We met in this day's journey, many large caravans of Turkman families, attended like the patriarchs of old, by all their live ftock of camels, horfes, cows, goats and fheep : along the vallies we faw others encamped to an incredible number. They wander as the feafons invite, from eaft to weft, and from north to fouth, where markets offer for their fupernuous ftock; in fuch directions, and in fuch proportion, fo as to find pafture distributed by the gracious hand of Providence for their flocks. They are well cloathed, and the females of the chiefs are accommodated with (tackts) (tackts) Utters. Their appearance, their wealth, their simplicity, feem each of them to befpeak inextinguishable freedom. At eight o'clock in the evening (20th May) we arrived pretty much fatigued, at Ya Illah (16th poft-houfe) a place compofed of only three huts, but under the government of a Turkman Aga, who shews no particular refpect for the Sultan's officers or commands; made independent by the fecurity of his fituation. The name of the place is an invocation to God, adapted as I fuppofe to the danger of the pafs. I could perceive rebellion in every look, word and gefture. Our Tartar Selim, who Muttered orflattered as he knew the wcaknefs or independence of his men, was obliged at tiiis poff houte to affume an.air of meeknefs; he began in an high tone of voice, but wasanfwered with contempt: at length he fub-mitted to pay an exorbitant fee for his horfes, and wasglad to get away. It was pan: midnight, and in a fhort time we began to defcend the mountain. At about half way thedefcent, wecametoachafm, near twenty feet wide, the mountain running abruptly up on each fide to a stupendous height. On the fummit to the right is an ancient tower that might well annoy the pafs, but its natural defence defence below, feems to bid defiance to the moft powerful armies. It is in my opinion, the proper line of feparation between Syria and Cara-mania. The narrow pafs took up an hour in the defcent, and along a dangerous and horrid road ; but affording by the light of the moon, fuch awful and romantic fcenes as might feaft the wildeft imagination. Our poft-boys were unufually concerned for the fafety of our rear, perpetually warning every body not to lag. It was a journey of ftrange delight and confterna-tion I confefs. By day light we had paffed the defile, and were got to a pleafant fountain of water in the neighbourhood of fome inhabited lands; but ftill in the mountains, and of a very fufpicious complexion, from the objects we could difcover about us. We delayed but little, and at eight o'clock (21ft May) we were repof-ing again in a poor man's garden, made and cultivated for the accommodation of the traveller. It was near a large khan, originally built for the paffage of the troops, and very ufeful to the caravans in rainy feafons, but otherwife feldom frequented. From this place it requires an hour's ride to an inferior order of mountains, and among thefe, four hours more to the plain of Adena, extending to the fea. We reached this fitua- fituation at five o'clock in the evening, and feat-ed ourfelves by a fmall refrefhing ftream. It was like the landing-place to our journey's end. We could fee from thence the fea of Scan-deroon, and the mountains beyond it. The city of Aleppo is diffant about two hundred and twenty miles, but we were comforted at'the profpect of foon arriving at our journey's end. Selim propofed that we mould go to Tarfus in-ftead of Adena, it was a nearer way he faid, if there was a certainty of finding boats, but as that fcheme would only have diminifhed our journey by land to encreafe it by fea, we thought proper to decline it. Our horfes were fo much knocked up, as to retard our arrival at Adena (17th poft-houfe) till three o'clock in the morning (22d May) the thirteenth day of our departure from Conftantinople. All the way from the foot of the mountains the foil is fine, and well cultivated ; exhibiting extenfive crops of cotton and corn. Adena is fituated on the banks of the Cyd-nus and Tarfus which I have juft mentioned, is famous for being the fceneof Cleopatra's magnificence, when cited by Anthony to the plains of Cilicia, We t 128 ] We entered on the north fide of the town, hut could dittinguifh little; it was night, but in iifuing, we paffed over a bridge of fome con-fideration guarded on the town-iide by a tower. During our fhort flay at Adena, we partook of the pleafure of the hot baths, which to harraffed travellers is a real pleafure, drank plentifully of iced fhorbets,eat fome delicate apples, and fmoak-ed our pipes. We were vifited by two Armenians, who called themfelves agents to the Englifh gentlemen at Aleppo. The country was in great diforder they faid. Ofman Bafha, made Bafha of Adena, by the intereff. of Abdi Bafha, whofe Kiaia he had been, on the point of marching with an army to affift his patron in the reduction of the rebels who had infefled the environs of Aleppo for many months. They diverted me from going by Scanderoon as I had intended, becaufe they faid no Frank was there; but they did no more than comply with the defire of Selim, who was averfe to that route. It was a fcheme they were alfo perfonally interefled in, for wifhing me to take charge of a bag of five hundred dollars to Aleppo, which I had refufed, becaufe money is a lure for thieves; they prevailed on Selim to take it, and on me to take the other road, that it might be lefs expofed. Ws [ I29 ] We mounted at five o'clock in the evening for Caradafti on the fea coaft to embark, and about midnight came to a horde or banditti, liv ing in houfes compofed of cane and mud, half under ground and half above, of the moft thief like appearance I ever beheld. Mr. ■- and myfelf were enjoined not to utter a Syllable of Frank, and mute as mice we obeyed. We fpread our carpets upon the top of one of thefe fellow's cells, and religned ourfelvcs to fleep. At three o'clock in the morning (23d May) we were roufed, but by our own companions, and fet off again on our journey. We had left the river to our left a little before we came to Yd illah, to purfue its courfe between the mountains, while we made ftrait over the tops, and met it ae feen in the neigh- neighbourhood, and many of their people pafled the bridge upon their daily fcout for melons from the cultivated grounds. An affray happened in our prefence, in which one of their party was killed, and fet them all upon the fcout back again, with fell revenge in their looks. I expected to fee fome bloody fcene, but our route laying a different way, for this time I was dif-appointed. At night we refted in a neighbouring village, and early in the morning arranged our party for the purfuit of the day. A dozen peafants with guns, ourfelves, our dogs and gyp-lies wandered over that part of the plain moft likely to reward our pains, but without effect; the next day ended as unfuccefsfully, and refol-ved me then to go among the thieves. I hoped that they might ftill have concealed the portmanteau in expectation of a better reward, and I determined to engage them to discover it at any price. It was my laft hope, and away I went the fame evening to Antioch, paf-Sed the night there, and continued in the morning my route to the mountains. At ten we reached Karamut Khan, the entrance of the defile which leads to Bylan, and guarded by an officer 'bf Abd-ul-Raham Bafha's, to oppofeany hofiils attempt [ J52 1 attempt from Abdi Bafha's troops. We were neutral people, and upon an expedition to the thieves, the allies of Abd-ul-Rahman Bafha, and therefore welcome. This captain of the guard was a flout fellow and laughed with all his heart, at the threats of Abdi Bafha. He informed us of the fituation of the Bagdafhlees, and in about an hour we proceeded on our way to find them. We were within ten minutes ride of the town of Bylan, when a friend of Koider's met us, and told us the thieves were in a village, half an hour's march from the road fide. I fent him to them to fix the time and place of an interview, which they appointed for the next day, with an invitation to dine. In the mean time I went and lodged at Mr. Sholl's houfe at Bylan; and when the hour of appointment was come, I mounted and repaired to the rendezvous. The fituation was among mountains, and marked by a few detached huts in which they ufually refide : fifteen in number were fitting round -the edge of a mat fpread upon the ground. Upon my approach they rofe to receive me, but feated themfelves again when I had taken my place. They had every one a gun fling over his fhoulder, and were equipped in the trophies they had won. Some of them had my cloaths on, and others the the bloody fpoils of poor Selim and Emin ; they were in their eftimation well earned triumphs of their victory. My firft falute was, health to my friends! Who can avert the will of fate ? Peace to you, faid they; welcome, welcome. I was then ferved with fome water by one of the thieves to wafti my hands; and after that came dinner* It confifted of a whole fheep roafted and ftufted with rice and dried raifins; a large pilo befides, and fome difhes of ragou'd meats, with melons, honey, eggs, onions, and every thing that was palatable. I was not an utter ftranger to this kind of living, and could acquit myfelf in the original ufe of my hands and fingers with fome dexterity. This ceremony over, water was again brought, and then pipes and coffee. This was the time for bufinefs, and I addreffed them. We muft praife God for all things ; I come not to upbraid you ; the flain are at reft, my wounds are healed, the fpoil you have divided; I come a fuitor to your favour. On my head, faid one of them, you fhall be fatisfied. Long may you live ! Koider has explained my wifhes to you ; the papers which are miffing are of great concern to me ; if you know where they are, let me have them. They threw down fome papers of real importance to me. Thanks for thefe faid I, C c have have you no more ? By the beard of Koideryou fhould hare them ! what are papers to us ? you fhould have all the papers in the univerfe for a creifh: but you may have dropt them on the plain, they may be found. Found ! the Turkmans are encamped there by thoufands; do they leave any thing ? they have burnt the weed all over the plain. Well God be thanked j I'll fay no more about them. But let me afk you, you lead a happy life here; of how many does your tribe confift ? Two hundred and fifty families. Abdi Bafha is coming to exterminate you. Exterminate ! faid one of them, and burff into a fit of laughter. Why what refiflance can you make to an whole army ? Our mountain will refill him, befides are there no more thieves do you think than the Bagdafhlees ? You have the greateft renown, what other tribes are there? Hey! to fignify innumerable, theCurdes, they are all thieves : there are the Sleikhan, Abbagee, Afh-kurbaglee, Chaillee, Dellibekerlee, Sareefeklee, Kiubanlee, Cutchukallee, Ravidlee, Chakallee, Jourlee, and Azillee, all the way from Bylan to Perfia. Some work to fubdue thefe ! You are brave fellows; but if we meet again ? fear nought, we'll efcort you to the gates of Aleppo. I took my leave. We all mounted. They took the road road down to the plain, and I to Bylan, whence I inftantly difpatched my Servant Matthew with letters to Mr. Smith, begging him to fend me a Tartar with the proper muniments to take me to Conftantinople. Before he could come five days neceflarily clapfed, and in this time I frequently faw the thieves; rode about the country, got acquainted with Abd-ul-Rahman Bafha, and was witnefs during my ftay, to the paffage of that part of the caravan of pilgrims, called the division of leffer Afia, on its way to Mecca. It is the moft fplen-did of any, being generally accompanied by fome of the Sultan's family, and compofed'otherwife of the principal men of the empire. Abd-ul-Rhaman Bafha poffeffes the ftrait of Bylan, where this caravan was unavoidably obliged to pafs, and which as the Porte had thought fit to treat him with the epithet of Rebel, he had taken care to defend. It became neceffary therefore, to negociate for the privilege of going through this ftrait; and that the credit of their religion, qn which the Turkifh government turns as upon a pivot, might receive no indignity, they deemed it politic to lofe no time about it. The Bafha was applied to, and he as readily confented. Not Cc z to to be taken by furprize, and to have a pretext for keeping the whole town armed while they remained at or near the place. A public wedding was folemnized, and all the great men of the caravan defired to afiift at it. There was a prodigious affectation of joy and merriment upon the occafion. The pilgrims who were fuppofed to be feafted, were furrounded by the Bafha's troops, of courfe not very eafy in fuch a fituation ; while the Bafha was laughing in his fleeve at the borrowed complacency and fatisfaction they were constrained to put on. They had pitched their camp at the foot of the mountain, on each fide the rivulet in the vale. Bylan is built on the flope or defcent of a rock that hangs over the town. Thefite is at the termination of a cul de fac, formed by a dreadful chafm in the mountain. Before you through the aperture of the rock is the fea. To the right and left, rocks and hills of a great height. On the verge of the rock flood my dwelling, befide which ran a constant itream of water thence ruffling down the precipice, and forming a pool in the valley underneath. A cool inceffant breeze plays round the hills; I was charmed with the beauty of the fcene. It is the the retreat of thofe poor Europeans whofe lot it is to live at Scanderoon for the purpofes of trade. And a heaven it is contrafted with that hellifh focus, of fcorching heats and deadly fevers. I left Bylan on the 24th of Auguft to return to Conftantinople. My journey back varied only in the following inftances. Inftead of taking the road from Antioch to Sovadee, I came to Bylan, a ten hour's ride, partly upon the plain but chiefly among mountains. From Bylan I went to Byafs, feven hours, along the fea fide, partly on the ftrand, and partly upon the rocks. From Byafs we continued along the fea fhore nine hours to Kat Callah and from Kat Callah acrofs the plain in twelve hours to Adena. Inftead of going from Bulla Wadin to the hamlet I had digreffed to in coming; I went to Cor-fuff Bafha, and kept the high road all the way from Aleppo to Conftantinople. I had difmiffed my fervant Matthew as an ufelefs mobile, and had no companion but my forry decrepid Tartar. I had great reafon to lament and regret the ab-fence of my honeft friend Selim; but a lively fellow of a Bofnian Tartar, overtaking us upon the road beyond Conia, whip and fpur, and giving me a challenge to go on with him ; I left my poor poor wretch to take care of himfelf, and went off full fpeed, travelling night and day to our journey's end. km. yet W yx UN 1H{ )Hf A JOURNAL ACROSS THE GREAT DESERT, FROM BASSORA to ALEPPO. By way of introduction to this journal I fhall beg leave to premife, that if Government or the Eaft India Company fhould have occafion to fend difpatches by Baffora, after the feafon is paft for tranfmitting them through Egypt; the moft expeditious and leaft expenfive manner, is by fending duplicates of the letters to our minifter at Vienna, who will forward them to the minifter at Conftantinople : from thence one copy may be tranfmitted to Aleppo, and another to Pagdad, both of which in all probability will arrive at Baffora from England, in lefs than two months. The poft from England to Vienna, and a cou* rier rier to Conftantinople, will travel fafter and cheaper than any gentleman ; as will alfo the Tartar couriers from thence to Aleppo and Bagdad; and when the letters contain any order or information of more than common importance ; to enfure their fafe arrival, a fecond let of duplicates may be fent to Vienna, and Conftantinople, within a week after the departure of the firft. But fometimes it may happen that a perfon muft be fent by this route, not only to convey the orders to India, but alfo to carry them into execution ; in which cafe he fhould confider whether he is equal to the fatigue of travelling all the way by land to Baffora; if not he fhould go from fome of the ports in the Mediterranean to Latichea or Alexandretta by fea: the former is unqueftionably the leaft fubject to delays from wind'and weather, but then it is alfo by much the moft dangerous, fatiguing, and ex-penfive; befides there are but few men who are able to bear the fatigue of riding poft from Vienna to Conftantinople, and from thence to Aleppo in the winter feafon; and the paflage by fea may be greatly fhortened by embarking at fome of the ports in the S. E. part of Italy. Upon fumming up therefore all thefe different reafons, we may reafonably conclude; that letters ✓ ters mould be fent to Baffora all the way by land; but that a geutleman had better go part of the way to Syria by fea. Two days only were allowed me to prepare for this journey, and therefore in the midfl of fettling my own private concerns, I had not leifure to confider what route I had beff take; the orders given me were to go by Holland to Venice or Leghorn ; in confe-quence of which I loft many days, which would have been faved if I had followed the abovemen-tioned plan of going farther to the Southward before I embarked. It muft be entirely unneceffary to give an account of my journey to Leghorn, the way to that city being fo well known ; fuffice it to fay then, that it was performed in eighteen days, notwith-ftanding I went round by Venice, and was detained near two days on the road; firft by the pofl-mafter of Gorcum in Holland, who refufed to give us horfes to travel in the night; and afterwards by an accident happening to the carriage. The Conful at Leghorn on our arrival there, freighted a Ragufian mow of 220 tons to convey us to Latichea or Alexandretta, which was ready to receive us on the 27th of September 1778, D d but bn' the wind being foul we did not go on board until the 29th at fix in the evening. As this Journal is not intended as a direction for mariners, I Shall put down the time according to the common way of reckoning, that is from twelve at night, and not according to the agronomical day, of twelve at noon. On the.29th of September, 1778. At night wre flood out to fea, and got a tolerable good offing. September 30th. The wind S. E. blowing exceedingly hard all night: in the morning we Saw a fail, and likewife the illand of Caprara, bearing about eall, diftance Seven miles, and the North end of Coiiica W. S. W. The wind in the morning moderate. October ill. Variable winds and calm, Saw the illand of Elba, bearing S. E. diflant about fix leagues, and the illand of Pianofa S. by E. diftance about nine leagues, the weather cloudy; in the evening the wind veered about to the E. S. E. no obfervation. October 2d. Variable winds and fometimes calm, faw the iiland of Monte Chrillo, bearing E. by S. diftance feven leagues, and found a current [ r«3 ] current Setting to the S. E. latitude obferved 42. 9. N. October 3d. In the morning light airs, and fometimes calm : in the cvenipg Began to blow frefh from the S. W. incrcahng atniqdit. October 4th. Continued blowing very frefh till about ten o'clock, when all at once the wind ilackened, and for about an hour it,became calm; and then began to blow very hard from S. S. W. we continued all night under ciofe-reefed top-fails. October 5th. Light airs and calm all the day ; in the night the Wind freihened at 5. by E. latitude obferved 40. 32. October 6th. Calm all the morning and very hot weather; about two in the afternoon a breeze fprung up from the S. S. W. with fmall rain and very thick weather. In the night faw a large Moorith vefTel {landing to the northward, latitude obferved 40. 21. N. October 7th. Wind at S. by E. blowing very hard all the twenty-four hours, a prodigious high fea, no obfervation. October 8th. Wind till twelve o'clock S. by E. from thence to S. S. W. blowing very Dd 2 . frefh frefh and a heavy Tea: favv a vefTel in the afternoon {landing to the N. W. latitude obferved ^.o. 10. N. OcTurrR 9th. Wind from S. to S. W. a frefh breeze and pleafant weather, latitude obferved 39. 40. October 10th. Wind S. W. a frefh gale and pleafimt weather, at day-light in the morning faw the illand of Sicily, and the other iilands near it j Lipari, Salini, Stromboli, Sec. ilood in fhore till we were within about five miles of the land, and then flood off and on all night, no obfervation. i October 11 th. Wind S. S. W. rather a frefh breeze about two o'clock in the morning, made fail for the Pharo MefTlna, a pilot "came nlongfide about feven in the morning, and took the fhip through the entrance of the Pharo, which is about three miles broad. We paffed within twenty yards or lefs of the fhore of Sicily : the price of the pilotage is not fixed, but depends upon the weather, which being moderate, we paid only two chequins and a half; they often demand five, and fometimes twenty. Ever fince the great plague at Meffina, there has been a quarantine of feven days, even between the coafl C 16s 1 ceaft of Calabria and Meffina; the ufual quarantine there from the Levant is at lead forty days, and on the moft trifling report of a plague, they will not permit any body to land; in which cafe moft vefTels go to Malta. The center of the channel bears about E. S. E. and W. N. W. the wind being favourable and the weather fair, I remained on deck the whole day to enjoy a fuc-ceflion of the moft beautiful views I ever beheld, which would afford a variety of fine fubjects for our beft landfcape painters. Off Reggio we faw two French xebeques lying at anchor, but they took no notice of us, nor of a Sicilian vefTel, though neither of us fhewed our colours. The Sicilian vefTels always keep a boat a-ftern, in order to enable the crew to make their efcape if they fhould fall in with a Barbary corfair ; in which cafe they always run the fhip as near as poffible to the fhore, and taking to the boats, land and fly into the woods : we faw the top of Mount iEtna covered with fmoak, but it has ceafed emitting fire fome years paft. About fix in the evening we got through the if raits. October 12th. Wind N. W. a pleafant breeze and very fine weather, the fouthermoft part of Sicily in fight bearing S. W. and Cape Spar- Spartivcnto the fouthermoft point of Italy N. N. W. diftance about fourteen league-. S and fpoke with a very clean Ragufian vefTel homeward bound from Genoa. JL. titude obferved 37. 25. N. October 13th. Wind S. W. by S. alight breeze and very fmooth water, with fine clear weather, latitude obferved 37. 8. N. October 14th. A light breeze from S. W. in the morning, which veered in the evening to S. by E. fine pleafant weather and a fmooth fea, at eight at night faw an Aurora Boreal is which continued exceedingly bright for more than an hour. Latitude obferved 36. 34. N. October 15th. \Vind from S. by W. to E. S. E. blew frefh and a confuted fea, in the night the wind came round more to the fouth-ward, at eleven o'clock tacked, no obfervation. October 16th. Wind S. W. the firft part of the day light breezes, increafing towards the evening to a moderate gale, rather hazy weather and a very heavy confufed fea, latitude obferved 36. 2. N. October 17th. Wind W. S. W. a frefh gale and pleafant weather for moft part of the day; t '67 } day; about noon a little fquall of rain, latitude obferved 35. 19. N. October i 8th. Wind S. W. a fine frefh breeze, and hazy weather, about five in the morning one of the tailors fell off the main yard overboard ; we hoifted out the boat and faved him after he had been twenty minutes in the water. At feven in the morning we faw three French {hips, at ten fpoke to one of them, they were all from Smyrna and bound to Marfeilles, they fent a boat on board to enquire whether war was declared between England and France, but our Captain pleaded ignorance : to avoid being known I had affumed the drefs of an Italian failor and therefore paffed unnoticed with the reft. At half paft five in the evening faw the land bearing N. E. diftant five leagues, we imagined it to be Goza off the N. E. end of Candia. October 19th. Wind W. S. W. a fine breeze and very pleafant weather, faw the ifland of Candia, at fix ,in the evening Cape Soliman bearing N. N. W. diftant about eight leagues, latitude obferved 34. 44. N. October 20th. Wind N. increafing gale and pleafant weather, latitude obferved 34. 34. N. October October 21 ft. Wind N. N. W. very light airs and fometimes calm, latitude obferved 34. 31. N. October 22d. Wind N. N. W. a light breeze in the morning, all the evening calm, latitude obferved 34. 21. N. Octoeer 23d. Wind in the morning at N. W. at three in the afternoon at W. by N. light airs and rather increafing; in the evening, faw the illand of Cyprus, the next morning Cape Baffa appeared bearing about N. E. diftant about twelve leagues, Cape Blanco N. by E. diftant five leagues, Cape Gatto E. by N. nine leagues. Near Baffa was fituated the ancient Paphos, of which probably Baffa is only a corruption. In the country near this Cape the women are ftill remarkably beautiful, in other parts of the Illand they are rather plain. The Captain finding a great and unexpected fcarcity of water, determined to come to an anchor for a few hours at Lernica in order to get a fupply; latitude obferved 34. 22. October 24th. Wind S. W. blowing rather frefh from ten in the morning, found a current fetting W. S. W. it drove us twenty-one miles in twenty-four hours, Cape Gatto N. 5 E. diftant about five leagues, latitude obferved 34. 36. At five in the evening arrived in the road of Lernica, the landing place bearing W. by S. and the flag of the English factory W. N. W. diftant off fhore about a mile and a half. Found lying here a French frigate from Malta; in the evening we went on fhore to the Raeu-fian Conful's houfe, whom we enjoined ftricr. fecrecy, and obliged him before his fervants to treat us as common failors ; we returned on board again about eight at night. The town is built as other common Turkifh towns are, with bricks dried in the fun. After we went on fhore, a boat from the French frigate went on board our VefTel, but did not difcover any thing relating to us. We faw the Englifh Conful on fhore, but he did not know us in our difguife of Italian failors; and we did not make ourfelves known to him, left his fervants might publifh our arrival. October 25th. In the morning till about ten o'clock calm, then a light breeze fprang up from the E. S. E. at eleven the captain came on board with a Greek Pilot, and we weighed anchor with an increaflng wind, faluted the French frigate when we got under way with five guns, fhe returned only one. E e Oc- October 26th. Wind variable moftly from the S. W. and frequently calm; in the night quite calm; at day-break faw part of the coaft of Syria; in the evening at fun-fet the mountains of Antioch diftant about fifteen leagues, latitude obferved 35. 2. N. October 27th. Light breeze at N. E. by N". Latichca bearing about N. E. E. about eight leagues diftant. Stood off and on all night the wind being contrary, we could not get into port, and we began to be apprehenfive that the captain of the French frigate would by feme accident hear of our being on board, and follow to make us prifoners. Saw feveral lights on the fhore in the night. October 28th. Light winds at N. E. La-tichea bearing N. E. by E. in the evening came on board three French boats belonging to merchant vefTels then laying in the harbour to affift us in getting in. At nine at night towed by the bocts, we came to an anchor in eight fathom off the entrance of the port. October 29th. In the morning we went on fhore to the houfe of Mr. Sciperas, Englifh Vice Conful under Mr. Abbot at Aleppo, to whom we we fent a letter announcing our arrival, and informing him of our bufinefs. The prefent city of Latichea lies about a quarter of a mile from the old port, which in its priftine ftate muft have been a moft expenfive and magnificent work, but is now in ruins; and the ground like that of the new port of Alexandria, fo foul from the blocks of marble and ftone that are fallen into it, as to deftroy the cables of Ihips. The adjacent country was once famous for producing excellent wine, but there is none made now; which as the country ftill produces abundance of grapes, and the Mahomedans would not objecf to their being made into wine; can only be imputed to the ignorance or the indolence of the Chriftians and Jews, who together conftitute the major part of the inhabitants. The tobacco of this country is in very high cfteem with the Turks and Arabians, and is now produced in fuch quantities as fupply the greateft part of the Turkifh empire; it is particularly fent to Damietta in Egypt, where it is exchanged for coffee that comes thither from Mocha, and alfo for the rice that grows in the Delta. Was this country under a good government, and were the inha- E e 2 bitants bitants inclined to be indufirious; with the advantages they have of a fertile foil, and a fine climate, they might poffefs not only every comfort, but alfo every luxury this world produces: a.remark indeed! equallyapplicable to almoft the whole of the Turkifh empire, which is unquef-tionably thefineft part, atleaff of the old world. Where nature has been fo bounteous, it is a pity her choiceit gifts have been fo badly beflowed. October 30th. We remained at Latichea getting our baggage on fhore, and fettling accounts with the captain. Whatleifure time we had both this day and the next was fpent in walking about the city, and examining the environs of it, in which there are many noble monuments of antiquity in a very ruinous ftate : towards the S. E. part of the prefent city is a large triumphal arch, fupported on columns of the Corinthian order, and which now makes part of a mofque: the architrave is adorned with antient military trophies, and there are many Greek inferiptions about the different parts of the building; but thefe have probably been much defaced by the Mahomedans. About half a mile north of the city we faw feveral fepulchral chambers, in which many ffone coffins coffins are depofited in fmall niches exactly made to receive them. Jn the center of one of thefe vaults is a fpring, the water of which is faid to produce very miraculous effects ; not only curing all forts of diforders, but alfo enduing people with the gift of highland fecond fight; the Greeks call it the cavern of St. Tecla. Saturday, November iff. At eight o'clock in the morning we fat out for Aleppo on horfe-back, with mules to carry the baggage, and ef-corted by two Janizaries; the firft part of the road was a ftrong uneven country: about ten o'clock we croffed a rivulet, and in the forenoon began to enter the hills which are covered with wood; the road through them is narrow, and the afcents and defcents are fteep, but the horfes being fure-footed and accuftomed to the road, we met not with the leaft accident; the foil is a kind of chalk, and large loofe ftones: the har-veft and vintage had been over fome time, but the peafants brought us fome grapes they were drying for their winter flock. At three in the afternoon the muleteers flopped near a fmall hovel, where they demanded a kafar of four dollars; the diftance from Latichea I mould fuppofe to be about twenty-five miles. As there was no no houfe near we were obliged to Deep in the open air by the road fide. November 2d. At two in the morning we proceeded on our journey, and flopped about noon at the town of Chokoor, commonly called Shogre, where the governor ordered us to halt for the night. The caravanfera being dirty we paffed through the town, and lay in an open field to the S. E. of the town, on the banks of the river Orontes. On this day's journey we palfed over many chalk hills reflecting a very flrong heat, but the road was much better than that we had palled over the preceding day : we faw both to the right and to the left of us many coniiderable towns and fome villages, the inhabitants of which brought us great variety of grapes. The town of Chokoor is fituated on the Weil fide of the river Orontes, and is furrounded by a very beautiful country. A man who called himfelf a catholic priefl, but dreffed like a Turk, and who fpoke no European language, offered us an apartment in his houfe in the town; but we preferred the field in order to get away early in the morning, before the gates would be opened. The moon fhining exceedingly bright, at midnight we began to prepare for our departure; but but were detained by a frefh order from the Governor, who fent us word he had information of fome Bedouins being in the road ; and that in the morning he mould fend a guard with fome money to Aleppo, who would alfo efcort us. November 3d. About four o'clock we left Chokoor, accompanied by a large caravan, and efcorted by horfe and foot. At fix in the morning we came to a kind of cuftom-hcufe, where they receive the kafar; at which place the people made us halt and difmount, till the whole caravan came up to pafs the hills together. We were told the Arabs were pofted among the hills in the front, however we faw nothing of them; two Turkifh horfemcn exceedingly well mounted and armed, who compofed a part of our guard, advanced in front with us to reconnoitre. We were about an hour in paffing the hills; the road over them was exceedingly bad, but afterwards we went through a very fine country, where we faw a great variety of vines, and alfo fig and olive trees. About three o'clock we flopped at the town of Adelip, or Eidlip, at a fmall houfe in the fuburbs: our comrades the Turkifh foldiers had intereft enough in the town to get us a very excellent pilo and fome fruit, of which without much much entreaty we prevailed on them to partake j We found them very fociable and ufeful companions ; one of them had ferved againft the Ruffians, and gave us a very good account of the war. November 4th. At two in the morning we proceeded on our journey over a very ftoney road, and kept a few hundred yards in front of the caravan, until we arrived at Khantaman ; and then about nine o'clock in the morning advanced by ourfelves over a hilly and ftoney country to Aleppo. We got thither in about two hours and a half, and our baggage arrived about two hours after us. Some Arabs on bad horfes feeing us without any attendance, endeavoured to terrify us with an account of there being plunderers on the road, but no perfon attempted to moleft us; however Mr. Abbot informed us we had been imprudent in quitting our guards. To attempt giving a defcription of a place fo well known as Aleppo would be ridiculous, ef-pecially as we had but little leifure forobferva-tion. Dr. Ruffel who refided many years in this city, has written a full and accurate account of it, which I would recommend to the perufal of every perfon who withes to be acquainted either ther with the natural hiftory of the country, or the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants. I mall principally confine myfelf to a detail of our own proceedings. Upon our arrival we waited on Mr. Conful Abbot who very kindly invited us to take up our refidence in his houfe. When a ftranger comes to remain any time in the city, it is customary for every European gentleman in the place to pay him a vifit, which of courfe muft be returned ; but as we were only fojourners, Mr. Abbot had prevailed on them to difpenfe with this ceremony with refpect to us. He however conftantly invited company to his houfe every day, by which means we had the pleafure of feeing all the ladies and gentlemen of the place. The language moft in ufe amongft the Europeans is the Italian however moft of them fpeak alfo the French and Englifh, and many of the ladies are converfant in modern Greek, Turkifh, and Arabic. The European languages they acquire from each other, the Greek from the women fervants, and Arabic from the inhabitants of the country and their men fervants. Even the children fpeak the major part of thefe languages with fluency and corre&nefs. The Eu- F f ropeans ropeans by a general fubfcription have built a fmall theatre, which they have fitted up with great tafte. During the winter feafon they perform French and Italian comedies, and even fometimes attempt operas with very great fuc 1 fs; they politely offered to exhibit fome little piece to amufe us, but the houfe being difmantled for the fummer, we could not (lay long enough for them to make the necelfary preparations. We declined accepting all invitations of either dinners or fuppers, but Monlieur Perdriaux, the French conful, would not hear of a refufal, he infilled upon our meeting a fmall private party, which he entertained with great elegance and good humour. The confuls of all nations always wear the European drefs, but the gentlemen of the factories generally put on the Benifh or long Turkifh robe, with a hat and wig, which has an uncouth not to fay a ridiculous appearance. Surely it would be both more convenient and becoming, either to confine themfelves to the European cloaths, or elfe to adopt entirely thofe of the Turks. The cuftom of wearing the hat in the room with the ladies, ftrikes a flranger alfo as b:ing very extraordinary, but this is done in com" compliance with the opinions of the Mahomed-ans, who deem it indecent to appear with the head uncovered. As there was no caravan likely to fet out for Baffora, the Conful was obliged to form a light caravan exprefsly for us. He at firft agreed with an Arabian Sheick or Chief for an efcort of forty men to fet out in a few days, and the Sheick as ufual was to furnifh camels for carrying our-felves, our baggage and provifions ; but a Jew merchant hearing: of our intention, offered to double the efcort, provided we would take thirty camels loaded with goods for him to Graine. After fome deliberation his propofals were agreed to, on condition that he would alfo fend two camels for each load of goods; thefe points being fettled, a new agreement was drawn up with the Sheick, of which the following is a literal tranflation. Trafflat ion cf a miiraB with the Sheick Suliman for a7t efcort of Arabs acrofs the Great Defert from Aleppo toBajfora. << This writing is to certify, that we the underwritten of the tribe of Arabs Nigadi, have F f 2 of of our own free will agreed to accompany and conduct the bearer of this contract, Colonel Capper, an Englishman, and thofe of his company : and that we oblige ourfelves to take with us feventy guards of the tribes of Arabs Nigadi, and Agalii, and Benni Khaled, who are all to be armed with mufkets: we the underwritten are included in the number, excepting Sheick Hag-gi Suliman Eben Adeyeh.—And we do promife alfo to carry with us nine refeeks with their mufkets, two of whom of the two different tribes called Edgelefs, two of the two tribes of II Fe~ daan, one of the tribe of Welled Aly, one of the tribe of Benni Waheb, one of the tribe of Lacru-ti, one of the tribe of Baigee, and one of the tribe of Sarhaani, making in all nine refeeks as above-mentioned. And it is agreed, that we the underwritten are to bring with us our own proviiions for the guards and refeeks above-mentioned, and the fame provifions are to be loaded upon our'camels, the hire of which camels is to be paid by us; and we likewife agree to buy ourfelves thirteen rotolas of gunpowder, and twenty-fix rotolas of balls, the coft of all the aforefaid things are to be paid by us, and not by Colonel Capper. And And we alfo oblige ourfelves to provide for him and his people nineteen camels, for the ufe of himfelf and his compan)r, to carry their tents and baggage, water and provifions for themfelves and for their horfes, befides thofe nineteen camels above-mentioned ; we alfo oblige ourfelves to provide them two other ftrong camels to carry the mohafa, in order that they may change every day one camel, and to provide a perfon to lead the camel that carries the mohafa from Aleppo to Graine, and moreover we will appoint him a perfon to take care of his horfes. We the underwritten do promife Colonel Capper, by our own free will and confent, and oblige ourfelves to pay all kafars and giawayez (that is to fay duties) to all the Arabs, and to the Sheick Tamur, the Sheick Tiveini, and all the Sheicks of the tribe of Beni Khaled, and to all other tribes of Arabs whatever; and we make ourfelves refponfible for all what is above-written, and further when we approach the tribe of Arabs called 11 Aflam, and Shammer and any other tribes, we oblige ourfelves to take from them a refeek to walk with us till we have paffed their confines* We We agree to carry no goods, or even letters from any other perfon or perfons, excepting the goods from Khwaja Rubens, which are thirty-one loads, for the hire of the faid goods from Khwaja Rubens we have received in full, that is, the hire, the inamalumi, the refeeks, the giawayez, ligmaniah, and all other expences to Graine; we have received of him in full, according to the receipt in the hands of the faid Khwaja Rubens : moreover we have agreed with our free will to provide for the faid thirty-one loads, for every load two camels, in order to keep up with the above-mentioned Colonel Capper, and never feparate from his company till our arrival at Graine; and we alfo oblige ourfelves to pay the dolleels (fcouts) the maadeb, the birakdar, and the chaous (officers of the guards) all the faid perfons we are to pay ourfelves, and not Colonel Capper. We have agreed alfo with our free will, with the faid Colonel Capper, to carry him and his company fafe in thirty-fix days to Graine, from the day we depart from the village of Nayreb ; but in cafe the faid Colonel Capper fhould be defirous of ftaying to reft a day or more the faid delay is not to be reckoned in the afore-faid thirty-fix days. And we the underwritten alfo engage three days before our arrival at Graine, to [ i83 1 to difpatch a melTcnger from our parts with Colonel Capper's letter to the agent of the British nation in Graine. And by this inffrument it is Stipulated and agreed between the faid Colonel Capper and us the underwritten perfons, that he pays us for all the fervices above-mentioned dollars nine hundred forty-one and one fourth in Aleppo, which fum we have received in full5 betides which the faid Colonel Capper does oblige himfelf to give us on the road dollars five hundred; and moreover on our fafe arrival at Graine, on our having fulfilled this our agreement with him, he the faid Colonel Capper obliges himfelf to pay us dollars eight hundred rumi, and in cafe we fhould fail in performing any part of our agreement with him, we then are to forfeit the laft-mentioned eight hundred dollars, and all we the underwritten are refpon-fible one for the other, for the performance of the promifes as above agreed between the contracting parties. In witnefs whereof, we have figned with our fingers this the fixteenth day of the moon called Shewal, in the year of the He-gira, one thoufand one hundred and ninety-two. Suliman Ebben Adeyah—Mohamed il Bifshir —-Ally Ebben Faddil—Haggy Ifa Ebben Ha- meidan meldan—Naffeh Ebn Refheidan—Suliman Ebben Gaddib—Mohamcd Ebn Nidghem—Suliman Ebben Naaifay. , The witnejf&s to the agreement are. II Haggi Omar Ulleed—Ifmael Eftracy—II Haggi Mahomed Firous—II Haggi Ibrahim Ulbed—II Haggi Mahomed Emin il Takrity—-II Haggi Fathu Ebn il Haggi Ufuph Maadara-loy—Ifmael Ebben Achmed Tecrity. In this manner all caravans that crofs the great defert are formed; that is to fay, an Arab Sheick or Chief of known good character and great experience, engages a certain number of refeeks or affociates' to join with him in furnifhing the merchants of the different cities with camels, to tranfport their goods from one place to another; and alfo each of the refeeks engages to bring a certain number of armed men to enfure the fafety of the caravan acrofs the defert. The refeeks are taken from different tribes, in order to Ieffen the rifque of being attacked; for each of them carries the colouror enfign belonging to his tribe, all which colours are difplayed upon the appearance of a party on the defert; and if the party belongs to the fame tribe as any of the refeeks, the the principal Sheick or Chief of each tribe, having generally half of what each refeek receives from the merchants; the caravan of courfe paffes unmolested. The firft-mentioned Sheick referves to himfelf the executive power and command in chief of the caravan ; but in cafes where there is time for deliberation, a council of all the refeeks is called, and the point in debate is fettled by a majority of voices. Many travellers give the Arabs an exceeding bad character, representing them as a faithlels and rapacious people, in whom no confidence can be repofed. I confefs they do not appear to me in that light; they certainly like moft men endeavour to make the beft bargain they can for themfelves; bul for my own part, I never found them inclined to exact more than was juftly their due. My reafons for thinking favorably of them will appear in the courfe of my journal. On the ioth of October, in the morning our baggage, fervants, and camels left Aleppo; and in the morning of the fame day we took leave of our friends, and I am lure on our parts, not without very fenfible concern at leaving fuch an agreeable fociety. We found our encampment at the village of Nayreb, about fix miles from G g Aleppo, Aleppo, where the Conful had fent his fervant with a flipper; we palled the night in an Arabian houfe as agreeably as could be expected all cir-cumftances confidered. On the r i th, at day-break in the morning the Conful affembled all the principal Arabs, cur fervants, and in Short all our dependants; and having given them his final inffructions with pofitive commands to treat us with the greateft refpect, he and his brother returned to Aleppo. Mr. Shaw, one of his clerks flayed to go another ftage with us, in order that we might by his means be fupplied with any thing we might have forgotten, whilft we were in the neighbourhood of Aleppo. At feven in the morning, we marched, and in nine hours arrived at the ruined village of Hagfier ; at the diftance of about two miles from it we faw a fait water lake, the length of which appeared to be upwards of ten miles, to the right were fome hills not very high. About two miles from Haglier we patted a large village of houfes, fhaped like bee-hives, near to which we met about fifty Arab horfemen, but they did not offer to moleft us : the road was good all the way, at four o'clock in the evening we encamped on a hill. Novem- November 12th. We remained at Haulier to get water and feed the camels, lb that they might travel two or three days without a frelh fupply. As my valet de chambre was fick, I endeavoured to prevail on him to return to Aleppo, but he being violently againft it, I did not fend him away; however at the fame time not to be diftrefted for a fervant I prevailed on Mr. Shaw to leave his man an Armenian who was accuftom-ed to travelling, and who agreed to go with us for one hundred dollars and his expences paid back. Mr. Shaw left us about four o'clock in the afternoon, we had a little rain about eleven o'clock, the wind at S. W. In the evening we were joined by a fmall caravan going to Bagdad. Our own party to pafs the defert now coniifted of Major Thomfon, whom I met at Aleppo in his way to India ; Mr. C. Dighton who accompanied me from Europe; Jean Cadeo a Frenchman my valet de chambre ; Babeck a cook hired at Aleppo; and Mr. Shaw's fervant an Armenian, eighty armed Arabs, ten of which were Sheicks or Chiefs, and the reft their fervants and dependants. Khawja Rubens agreeably to bis promife fent fixty-two camels for thirty-one loads, and we had nineteen camels for carrying our tents, provisions and water, belidcs two al- G g 2 ter- ternately to carry a mohafa. We began our firft day's journey upon camels, to fee how we liked their motion. The walk we found difagreeable, and at firft a great ftrain on the loins and back, but the amble is like the fame pace of a large horfe and not unpleafant. Cadeo being ill was put into the mohafa. November 13th. At day break we ftruck the tents and began to load the camels, but did not get away from the ground till eight o'clock, when all the caravan began to move : for the firft three hours and a half the road was tolerably eood: to the left we faw the S. E. end of the fame fait lake we had feen before. About feven-teen miles from Haulier and two miles to the right of the road perceiving fome ruins we went to look at them, and found the fhell or outer wall of a church built of ftrong black granite without cement; there were four large arches that appeared to have been windows, three to the fouthward and one to the eaftward. Near to this building were alfo the remains of a very large town; the Arabs faid it had been in ruins time immemorial, and was called Afhuck Mafhook. At a quarter before three we flopped upon a ri-fing ground, the mountain of Diaram in fight bearing bearing about W. by N. diftant about three miles. On the top of it appeared to be a ruined building, where there is faid to be a well of exceeding good water, and much frequented by tb ieves. We faw live Antelopes but could not approach near enough to get a fhot at them. November 14th. It rained the greateft part of the day, little wind from S. W. at five in the morning we marched and palled over an uneven country, the foil of which is a red gravelly fand full of holes mady by rats and fnakes; we law alfo feveral fnakes fkins. At two o'clock it began to growT cloudy and thunder to the S. W. about four o'clock in the afternoon the ftorm broke upon us with a hard fhowerof rain, which continued fome time, and obliged us to pitch our tents in a place where there was the appearance of a caravan of camels having been lately encamped. The ufual mode of encamping is as follows; when the caravan comes to the ground, the camels which carry the tent the provifions and the baggage are drawn up in the centre, and thofe with the bales of merchandize form an outer circle round them, by which means their loading makes a kind of rampart; and the camels themfelves having one of their fore legs tied up form form another outer circle round the goods: hut when there is pafture for the camels as there was this day for the fir ft time fince we left Haglier, after being unloaded they are turned loofe'to browze, and before it is dark one of the drivers goes out and makes a noile fomewhat like that made by our herdfmen in calling the cows; on hearing which all the camels come up to him.on a full trot, and return to the camp where they are tied together to prevent their ftraying in the night. Our courfe this day was nearly E. S. E. November 15th. It rained all night, never-thelefs at fix in the morning we marched, but were obliged to halt again at three in the afternoon ; we paffed this day over a clay and fandy foil that was very flippery, on which grew furze and long grafs. We killed two fnakes about feven feet long and faw a large flight of wild ducks, which came from the S. W. and flew towards the N. W. our camp was fituated in a bottom furrounded with fmall hills; on the fummit of one to the N. E. is a white building o which our Arabs told us was erected by a man to the memory of his horfe which died near that fpot, after having faved him from falling into the hands of fome Bedouins by whom he was purified. purfued. About four o'clock we bad an alarm and our people took to their arms, the perfons fufpected proved to be our own fcouts. November 16th. The rain continued the greateft part of laft night, and the wind blew pretty frefh from the S. W. At fix in the morning the wind changing to due weft it cleared up, and at feven we marched. We paffed over an hilly uneven country, the foil nearly the fame as yefterday. About nine in the morning we faw fix oftriches at the diftance from us of about half a mile. At one o'clock found the remains of a dead body, the head entire with fome of the hair upon it, one of the arms and both the legs gone, and no flefh on the carcafe; about two hundred yards further lay a blue Arab jacket, our people fuppofed it to be the body of a courier fent from Bagdad with difpatches for Aleppo, who had been fome time miffing. A little after two in the afternoon we halted and encamped upon a plain furrounded by fmall hills. Our Sheick went to the top of the higheft to look out for Arabs, but faw none; he alfo in the evening fent two fcouts to the next watering place, which is about fourteen miles diftant, where we are to halt to-morrow to take in a frefh fupply of water, novem- [ *9* 1 , November 17. We began our march at a quarter pad feven in the morning, very fine weather, fent out fcouts, and quitted the direct road to prevent falling in with an enemy. We proceeded over a very uneven conntry, the foil the fame as yefierday. About twelve o'clock we faw the remains of a very large encampment which alarmed our Sheick, and made him collect the caravan to march in clofe order; about two oclock three horfemen appeared on the top of a hill to the right of us. We drew up the men who began their war dance, throwing their mulkets over their heads and Shouting with great vociferation. As we advanced the horfemen retreated, we Showed our colours and they difplayed theirs, on which our Sheick faid they were not irreconci-leable enemies. We drew off to the right, and encamped in a ftrong poft, flanked by two marfhes, and covered in the rear by a fmall hill, on which we Stationed ten men : from this hill we could plainly perceive at the diftance of about three miles, an immenfe body of Arabs, which as they had their families and flocks with them, looked like the encampment of the Patriarchs: they firft fent out a detachment of about four hundred men towards us, but finding we were drawn up to receive them, five men only advanced ed from their main body, feemingly with an intention to treat; on feeing which we alfo fent five of our people to meet them. A fhort conference enfued, and then both parties came to our camp and were received with great ceremony by our Sheick ; they proved to be Bedouins under the command of Sheick Fadil, amounting altogether including men, women and children to near twenty thoufand. After much negoci-ation our Sheick agreed to pay a tribute of one chequin for every camel carrying merchandize ; but he refufed to pay any thing for thofe that carried our tents, baggage, and provisions: thefe terms fettled, the Bedouins promifed to fend a refeek with us, until we were paft all danger of being molefted by any of their detached parties. To the Southward of us, and about four miles diftant we could plainly perceive the ruined city of Tiaba, but the Sheick advifed us not to vifit it, leafl we mould be attacked by fome ftragglers from the Bedouin camp. Palmira, or as the Arabs call it Tadmor, is find to be forty-five miles S. of this place, over the hills. November i 8th. Sheick Suliman not having fettled with the Bagdad caravan, what portion of the Bedouins demand they fhould pay, H h we we remained at the fame encampment. The Bedouins brought fome camels to fell, for the beft of which they alked twelve chequins: our ' people purchafed one and killed it to eat; the fiefh of the camel being efteemcd a dainty, the divifwn of it occafioned many difputes among them, nor was it without fome difficulty they were prevented by their Sheicks from fighting for it. One of the Bedouins who was fick, being informed we were Europeans, came to afk our advice as phyficians; we told him we had no medicines with us, but would write down his cafe, and if he would carry our prefcription to Aleppo, the gentleman there would give him what was proper to cure him. We accordingly wrote the letter, and the brother of the patient fet out with it next morning exprefs, promrfing to deliver it in two days and a half. Thefe Bedouins are almoft the only tribe of Arabs, who live according to the primitive fimplicity of their anceftors; they never fleep in houfes, nor even enter a town or city, unlefs to purchafe what they want, or to fell what they have to difpofe of. They acknowledge no fuperior but their own Sheicks, nor do they like moft other tribes pay a tribute to any of the Bafhaws belonging to the Ottoman government. In the fummer feafon [ m ] feafon when the wells and ponds in the defert are almoft dry, for the convenience of feeding and watering their camels and fheep, they always keep near the banks of fome great river: but after the rains they move about from one place to another, feldom remaining on one fpot longer than a week. They compel every perfon they meet with to pay them a tribute; but are feldom guilty of cruelty, unlefs they are refilled, and any of their companions are killed in which cafe they are very vindictive. The year before they fell in with us, they attacked and plundered a caravan going from Damafcus to Bagdad ; but their victory coll them dear, which perhaps made them more readily liflen to overtures of peace from us. November 19th. We marched at half after feven in the morning, and about a mile to the eaflward of our camp paffed by a fpring of warm water, which in colour, tafle, and alfo in heat, greatly refembles that of the Briflol Wells. It is called by the Arabs Ain ul Koum : our Sheick told us there was once an aqueduct to convey this water from the fountain head, to an ancient ruined city about fourteen miles from thence, H h 2 called r called KelTer al Ackwien, or Guffur ul Bain*, but we faw no traces of it; foon after pairing the well we had a good view of Tiaba, which we faw to the fouthward at the diftance of three miles. The ground we paffed over this day was a tolerable good mould, and capable of producing many kinds of grain. About the diftance mentioned by our Sheick, and rather more than a mile to the right of the road we faw Keller ul Ackwien, which accompanied by our Sheick we went to examine. The building is divided into two fquares, and a paffage between them of about fifty paces wide, each face of the largeft fquare is about two hundred and fifty yards long, and thirty feet high; there are round towers at the diftance of forty yards from $ach other, the gate is in the centre of the weft front, and a fmall round tower on both fides of the gate. In the interior part of the largeft fquare there is the ruin of a building, and near to it a fubterrane-ous paffage that leads to a kind of a cave or cel- * None of thefe Arabs are able to write, the pronunciation of the names of places on the defert therefore being arbitrary and extremely different, it is almoft impofhble to afcertain their proper denomination. Many of the ruins are by the Arabs faid to have been built by a Keller, which certainly implies fome of the Ca-fais, but the other name is generally too much difguifed to be known. lar. lar. In the S. E. angle of the fquare was a portico of the Corinthian order entire, and the fhafts of fome other columns lying on the ground, the bafes and capitals of which we could not find. The walls are built of a kind of Bath ffone, and the fmaller fquare of the fame materials; the infide of the fmall fquare is a continuation of arches in a ruinous ftate ; round the top of the walls of both the fquares is a kind of a parapet made of fmall bricks and mortar, but we could perceive no cement between the ftones of the lower wall. We were prevented taking any particular plan or view of this place by the appearance of fome ftrange Arabs. Thefe ruins and many others in fight of this place, are probably remains of towns and villages, formerly dependant on Palmira. About three o'clock we halted upon a rifing ground, the Bedouins brought fome more camels to fell, but we did not pur-chafe any of them. Our courfe this day was about s. E. November 20th. It feems the Sheick expected to be attacked by the Arabs we faw yef-terday near Keller ul Ackwien, and for that reafon kept the centries very alert all night. At feven this morning we marched over rather a plain plain country, the foil a light white loom, with rank dried grafs growing on it in clumps; this day we faw a great number of hares and rabbits, of which we killed feveral; at three o'clock we halted, when the caravan came firft to the ground there were a number of antelopes in light, which immediately fled on our appearance, and we faw no more of them*. In the evening Sheick Suliman delired a hundred and five dollars to fettle his own accounts with Sheick Fa-dil. Weather fair, the wind at S. S. W. courfe S. E. faw two flocks of fheep and goats, bought one ftieep for feven dollars, which we killed immediately, and it proved to be very fat and good; buried without any funeral ceremony an Arab of our party who died yefterday. November 21ft. We marched at feven this morning over a plain country of light clay, with a kind of fern and furze growing upon it, amongft which we fhot fome hares and rabbits. The A-rabs dreffedahare for us in the following manner. They dug a hole about two feet deep in the • A person travelling for curiofity or pleafure fliould carry with them hawks or greyhounds, and they might catch plenty of game ; which would be an amufement, and at the fame time very convenient, ground, [ W ] ground, large enough to contain the hare at full length, which they filled with furze, and then fet it on fire j after the fir ft parcel of furze was confumed, they put in a Second; and then a third, until the hole was almoft as hot as an oven : then they put in the laft parcel of furze, and without drawing or fkinning the hare, they placed it on the fire until the flame was extin-guifhed : at laft they covered up the hare with the mould, which had been heaped upon the edge of the hole, fo as to be heated by the fire, and thus they left it until it was Sufficiently baked. The Arabs eat fkin and flefh together^ but we contented ourfelves with the flefh only, which we thought a very favory difh. We arrived at our ground, where we encamped about four in the afternoon, our courfe was S. E. eafterly. November 22d. Marched at feven this morning, and in the courfe of the day paffed two hills, but on the whole the country was tolerably plain, we croffed one place that had the appearance of being the bed of a river, but our people differed about its name; the foil in general was a kind of light clay with ftones. We mot fome hares amongft the furze. At half after after three came to our ground at a place called Ain ul Haroof or Juab Kunnum; we found a well in a bottom and rather deep, the water of which was muddy -y weather fair and exceedingly hot, at noon the wind N. W. courfe S. E. November 23d. Marched at feven this morning over an uneven country, the foil, 111 rubs, &c. the fame as yeiferday; about twelve o'clock we paffed the bed of a river about one hundred and twenty yards wide from the appearance of the weeds and (hrubs that grew in it, the water ran from the N. E. to the S. W. it is called Suab, and is faid to be impaifible after heavy rains. We killed fome hares, but faw not fo many as for fome preceding days; we alfo faw fome Antelopes and Oifriches but at a great diftance. In the morning cloudy to the eaft ward, when the fun rofe the iky looked wild ; in the middle of the day the weather was exceedingly hot and in the evening cool, wind about S. E. our courfe S. E. halted at three in the afternoon : the Arabs when the wind blows from this quarter always cover their mouths with a piece of their turbans. November 24th. Marched at feven this morning over a very uneven ftoney country. At twelve halted a few minutes at the bed of a river called called Rutgur. About one o'clock came in fight of fome hills called Manget, they bore about S. E. the country we travelled over till we halted was rather plain and the foil a light mould. Stopped at half after four, the wind N. N. E. the weather fair and the middle of the day very hot, faw a few hares, fent out three fcouts to reconnoitre the next watering place, at the diftance of three days journey, courfe S. E. November 25th. Marched at feven this morning, and at noon the Bagdad caravan fepa-rated from us to proceed to the place of its destination, they expected to come in light of the Euphrates the next day in the evening j we were very happy to part with them, for they doubt-lefs detained us very much, but we could not get rid of them without quarrelling with the Sheick, who certainly made them pay convoy money. The foil of the country much the fame as yelterday, caught a few hares; about twelve o'clock parted the bed of a river, halted a quarter before five in the afternoon. Whilff we kept with the Bagdad caravan, I believe we travelled only at the rate of two miles an hour, but afterwards I reckon at the rate of two miles and a half an hour. Our courfe this day was S. E. by E. I i No- November 26th. Laft night was a froft, and the air exceedingly cold, in the morning the wind W. N. W. marched at feven, about eight o'clock faw on a hill to the right of us the appearance of a ruin, but we were advifed not to go to examine it. The country we paffed over very much the fame as yefterday, caught fome hares, halted at four o'clock on the bank of a bed of a rivulet that overflows in the rainy feafon. No vember 27th. Marched at feven this morning, the foil of the country we paffed over was compofed of hard fand and flints, we faw fome hills to the left of us that had the appearance of ftone, and about three in the afternoon paffed by a deep pit, that looked as if it had been a ftone quarry. At five in the evening halted at Haglet -ul Havran, where we found a great number of wells near the furface. When the camels came within half a mile of the place they began of their own accord to run as faft as they could, which the Arabs faid was owing to their fmelling the water, but I am rather inclined to believe fome of the camels knew the place : this was the fifth day they had not drank. The appearance of a large encampment having lately lately left this place, alarming the Sheick he talked of going the next morning towards Me-fhed Aly, which he fays is feven or eight days journey from hence. In the morning the weather very cloudy, and the wind at E. but it cleared up towards the evening, and.at night it was a frolt, courfe E. S. E. November 28th. Remained near the wells till nine o'clock in the morning that the camels mightadrink a fufficient quantity of water, tolaif them three or four days; at half after nine began our march, we paffed over a barren country, and halted at five o'clock, about a quarter after ten o'clock in the morning, we paffed the bed of a deep rivulet, when we got over on the other fide, we were met by one of our people who had been at Cubeffa to learn news : he brought word that Baffora was certainly evacuated by the Persians, and in the polferTion of the Arabs; alfo that Mahomed Khulleel an Arab, but a pro-feffed deiff. who had affembled a large body of troops to attack and deffroy Mecca, had been defeated by the troops and allies of the Sherreef. The other fcout did not return with the camels, this man came on foot to us, and faid he did net know where his comrade was gone: in confe- Ii 2 quenc quence of the BaiTora news, the Sheick promifed ns we fhould go to Baffora inftead of Graine. About twelve o'clock the wind began to blow very ftrong from the N. W. which produced cloudy weather and fome rain ; halted about half paft three o'clock in the evening, courfe E. S. E. November 29th. The wind continued to blow violently and exceedingly cold; we marched at half after feven, paffed over a barren country, faw to the right of us, at a contiderable diftance a flock of fheep : when we firft perceived them they were near the fummit of a hill, which made them look large, and gave them the appearance of a party of horfe. About three o'clock we came to a country covered with furze, the fame as we had feen before ; caught a few hares, ftopt at half after four o'clock in the evening: our Sheick who had intelligence of fome Arabs being on the road, fent two men to a village to gain further information about them; the man who returned on foot went again on a camel to fearch for his comrade, the wind continued blowing hard all this day from the N. W. courfe S. E. November 30th. Marched at half paft feven this morning, the wind blowing at M. W. exceedingly ceedingly cold, we paffed over an uneven country with fome few hills of white ftone : the foil in general a find, and fome few hills of white clay, which muft be very flippery in wet weather, and confequently dangerous to travel over upon a camel; to the N. E. of us we law a hill that had the appearance of a ruin. One of the fcouts returned and brought advice that there were fome Arabs near the watering place where we intended to halt the next day, we therefore determined to go another way towards the village of Rahaly; faw three eagles foaring in the air, courfe S. E. by E. December iff. In the middle of laft night a man came and confirmed the report of our fcouts, he faid he was fent by one of our people, but we detained him leaft he fhould be employed by an enemy: about two o'clock we turned off due S. to avoid the above-mentioned Arabs. In the firft part of the day we marched over a confiderable fpace of ground that is overflowed in the rains; we afterwards met with many different kinds of foil, but principally gravel. About four in the afternoon we faw fome hills of white fand to the eaftward of us, near which the Sheick fays, there is exceeding good water, but but we kept to the Southward to avoid meeting the Arabs. At noon Saw a large herd of goats; this evening two men came into our camp dreff-ed in the (kins of antelopes, whole principal bufmefs is to kill thofe animals, and to carry their fkins to the adjacent towns to fell. Halted at fix in the evening, about ten miles from Ra-haly, which we fhould have reached this night if we had not been obliged to go fo much to the Southward; the wind well ward, the morning and the evening cool, the middle oS the day exceedingly hot, the weather fair. December 2d. Marched at feven this morning,, after travelling about three hours and a half over loofe fand, came in light of two large clumps of trees; we drew up the men in good order to march to the town of Rahaly, which is fituated in the middle of a large plain, and furrounded by a vaft number of date trees : about three quarters of a mile to the N. W. of the place, are two large ponds of clear water, which are fupplied by fprings. We firft halted near thefe ponds, but the Sheick advifed us to move nearer the town. It is Slid to contain five or fix thoufand inhabitants who carry on a confi-derable trade with the city of Bagdad, particularly larly iri dates. The commandant or Arab governor, upon our arrival fent us a prefent of preferved dates and bread. We faw feveral large flocks of fheep and goats, and bought a fheep for four dollars; they afked half a dollar apiece for fmall fowls, which it feems are very fcarce : the trees in the neighbourhood of the town feem to cover a fpace of near fix miles, but there is no pafture for the cattle, excepting fome fern that grows between the trees; the foil is a light fand, which perhaps is the rcafon the people'in general have bad eyes, for when the wind blows violently from the S. E. it raifes the fand, and is faid to affect: their health as well as their eyes ; the fumyel or poifonous wind that blows in July and Auguft comes from that quarter. Early in the morning about a dozen of thofe people who live by catching of antelopes came intoour camp; in language as well as in features, they appear to be a very diftinct people from any Arabs I ever faw, by whom they are treated in the fame manner as we treat our gypfies. December 3d. The Sheick being told that a large body of hoftile Arabs were on the road, fent fome people to treat with them, and defired us to remain at Rahaly, until his meffengers returned. returned. This morning about eleven o'clock, fome of thofe Arabs came into our camp, and two of them flayed with us as refeeks. One of our fervants mot two birds fomewhat like a partridge, but rather larger, the breaff of the male bird is covered with black fpots, and the neck entirely black; the plumage of the hen bird is exactly like that of a hen partridge; the inhabitants of the town we found to be ereat thieves, they attempted to take every thing they could carry away unobferved. The Sheick dif-patched a man to Mefhed Aly, to fee if there were any other hoftile Arabs in the neighbourhood of that city, and alfo to learn if the Persians had abandoned Baffora ; by their anfwers we were to regulate our march; the weather fair, the morning cold, the wind all the day at N. W. in the evening the weather was remarkably fine, and the air temperate. We gave the governor's brother a prefent of four piaffres, and a Benifh or long gown: this place is remarkable for fine greyhounds, we faw feveral in cloathing like our race horfes. December 4th. Marched at feven this morning, the firft two hours we paffed over a light fand,_ on which grew a number of thorny bufhes bullies and fome furze : about nine in the morning we faw a clump of trees to the left, where oar people told us there was a fmall town called Ajeb, and to the right of us was a cupola built of lfone, faid to be the tomb of Sheick Huzzar; foon afterwards we palled over a place that had the appearance of a lake dried up, on the ground of which we found a great quantity of white fait of a bitumenous tafte, it feemed to extend a great way to the N. E. and S. W. We were about an hour and a half in palling over it to the S. E. we then came on a fand and clay intermixed with gravel; about three o'clock we faw another clump of trees to the left of us: about five in the evening halted in a large plain of fand and gravel, and about four miles to the N. W. of a large ruined building, but it being-late when we arrived at our ground, we poft-poned vifiting it until the next morning. The Sheick faid it was formerly built by the Greeks, and is called by the Arabs, Khuttar. Weather fair and wind N. W. December 5th. Marched twenty minutes before feven this morning. Accompanied by the Sheick and one of the refeeks, we went to examine the ruin mentioned in laft night's journal K k called called Khuttar, it is fituated on the bank of a bed of a river, which has been, and perhaps if ill is very deep when the frefties come down. The building is a large fquare, furrounded by a wall upwards of thirty-five feet high, and each face of it, fomewhat more than two hundred yards in length, built of rough ftone and mortar; within the large fquare there is a fmaller one of about one hundred yards each face, and parallel with the outer wall : the interior part of the leffer fquare was divided into a number of chambers and paffages, which being in a very ruinous ftate, we could not form any conjecture what they had been ; we could fee no place where there had been wells or refervoirs of water, but the Sheick told us that water is always found near the furface. We faw nothing like Grecian architecture, but our people fay it was certainly built by the Greeks : when we were leaving this place we were alarmed by the appearance of fome ftrange Arabs from the N. E. they appeared as foon as we got clear of the building, but fome of our people with the caravan who had obferved their motions coming to join us, the ftrange Arabs perceiving them, difappeared; at eleven o'clock we paffed by two fmall pools of water, which were clear but extremely brack- ifh: ifh : at half after four we halted, the country we palled over was fimdy, and in fome places mixed with clay ; about half after three we taw a number of hillocks of land both to the right and to the left of us, Khuttar remained in fight* until half an hour before we encamped. Six men on camels and feven on foot came and encamped near us ; it appeared they were the fame people that we faw in the morning, and were well known to be thieves. In the morning the wind at eaft and very cold, the weather fair; difpatched another melfenger this evening to Mefhed Aly for intelligence. December 6th. Marched at a quarter before feven this morning, and left the people behind that encamped near us laft night; they mentioned to Sheick Suliman that a French gentleman going to Baffora, had been attacked and plundered ; and although much wounded was likely to live; they faid the Arabs carried him to Graine, and likewife that the gentleman behaved very gallantly, and killed two or three of their people himfelf. The foil of the country over which we paffed till twelve o'clock was a light fand with fome bullies, and a few fmall hills to the right and left of us : a quarter be- Kk 2 fore lore twelve we arrived at a place called Hidia, where there was a pool of water, furrounded with high grafs; we filled a few fkins with the water, which was clear, but very brackifh ; afterwards paffed over a country, the foil of which was mud impregnated with fait, there were banks of fand to the right and left of us. At the diftance of about twelve miles E. by N. we faw the town of Mefhed, or rather Mefgid Aly, that is the mofque or burying place of Aly, who it is well-known was the fon-in-law of Mahomed, and the favorite prophet of the Perfians. At a quarter before five we encamped near a place called Birket Rahama, wind E. S. E. weather fair. One of our fervants obferving a young camel without an owner, we fent out a man who brought it into our camp. December 7th. Marched rather before feven, the foil over which we paffed was fand with thick bullies, faw at the diftance of about ten miles to the N.E. the town of Mefgid Aly; we could plainly perceive feveral minarets, and a large gilt cupola; our Arabs fay the latter belongs to the Mefgid or great mofque of that city; it appeared to us with great advantage, for the fun fhone on it, and made it appear extremely brilliant: liant: as well as we could judge of the fize of the cupola at fo great a diftance, it cannot be lefs than the dome of St. Paul's. About twelve o'clock we came to a hill, on which were erected two fmall forts, the place is called Alathe. At the diftance of three quarters of a mile from the Weftward fort is a fpring of water, which is conveyed to the fort by a deep ditch, and is there raifed by means of a wheel to water a fmall garden lately made about the fort, and planted with a great number of radiihes and onions: the largeft fort is a fquare about ninety yards each face, at each angle is a round tower built of mud, the infide is a ftone building of two ftories high, built in the Mahomedan ftile: this place was founded by our Sheick, who propofes living here when age and infirmities compel him to retire. He feems to expect to lay the foundation of a very large town here, which, as there is plenty of water and a good foil of a light mould, for the purpofes of agriculture and gardening; and above all its being fituated in the high road from Mefgid Aly to Baffora, and other places near the defert, is a very reafonable expectation. A caravan that lately paffed, which came from Graine, and was going to Bagdad told the people in the fort, that the Montifeek Arabs have had a great battle battle with the Perfians near Baffora, in which they cut off the whole Perfian army, and thereby repotfeffed themfelves of Baffora, the wind N. E. the weather fair, our courfe about S. E. by S. bought a fheep, and paid three dollars and a half for it. December 8th. Marched at a quarter before feven this morning over a barren ftoney country, killed a few hares, faw at the diftance of about ten miles N. E. of us the town of Gurgam an ancient city rebuilding. About two in the afternoon paffed over a hill of red gravel, and at half after four halted in a valley where there was but very little pafture for the camels. About eight in the evening our centinels being potted as ufual, one of thofe to the weftward difcovered five horfemen who fled the inftant he fired at them. We doubled our guards and kept under arms for a few hours in expectation of their attacking us with a reinforcement. The meffenger from Mefhed Aly not returned, nor the people that were miffing from the firft place; the wind at E. morning cold, middle of the day exceedingly hot, the wind in the afternoon at N. E. December 9th, Marched at feven this morning, dark and cloudy to the N. W. and the wind wind from that quarter: the firft three hours, a very barren foil, hard fand and large dark brown foft ftones, afterwards came to a hard fand and a great many fhrubs; half after four halted, killed fome hares, the weather cloudy and hazy, to the N. W. we faw a fire which they told us was on the banks of the Euphrates.—-Major Thompfon about noon miffed his watch, but having looked at it about ten o'clock, he fent. one of the Arabs back to fearch for it, telling him within what diftance it muft have fallen; the fellow very honeftly brought it, nor was it broken. December ioth. Marched at feven this morning, paffed over a very barren country, faw to the left of us three large volumes of fmoke from the banks of the Euphrates, which the Sheick faid was fifteen miles diftance : at a quarter paft twelve halted for half an hour near fome wells of tolerable good water, until two o'clock the foil continued barren, then we got amongft fome hills of light fand and broken ftones. At four o'clock a large body of Arabs appeared to the right, who feemed inclined to attack us, our people immediately halted and drew up towards the enemy. Some few mot were fired, but a man man advanced waving a cloth in his hand, and began a treaty with our Sheick who went to meet him, which put an end to hoftilities: our people were of different opinions concerning them, fome infilled on their being thieves who intended to attack us in the night; the Sheick himfelf though he called them friends advifed us not to pitch our tents, and alfo to be on our guard all night. We were encamped half a mile diftant from the new comers, our own camels and baa-- o gage were drawn up in as fmall a circle as pof-fible; our fufpecled enemies were divided into two camps, one to the weftward and the other to the Southward, wind wefterly and weather fair. December nth. The fuppofed thieves remained quiet all night in their camps with fires lighted ; at half after fix we began loading our camels, but did not move till half after feven : we judged it prudent to divide our men into two parties, one of them to march in front of the camels, and the other to bring up the rear. The firft two hours the foil was fand with furze, and then a barren ftoney country ; afterwards a fand with furze and in fome places large fpots that looked like a pond dried up in fummer. Rather before one in the afternoon we came to fome wells wells and alfo a large pond of brackifh water; from thence proceeded over the fame fort of country and foil as before till near five; and then encamped for the night: cloudy to the N. E. and S. W. a little rain between two and three in the morning; fix: of the party we faw laft night joined us on the march, and were received with great cordiality by our people. December '12th. Marched rather before feven this morning and paffed over a light find mixt with fait, a great quantity of furze and fome bufhes; the latter part of the day the fand lay in great heaps or ledges: halted at four o'clock in a bottom; from an afcent near the camp we faw a ruin called Couria, about five miles to the fouthward, with a glafs we could perceive it was a fquare building with round towers: the morning and evening were cool, but the middle of the day was very hot, the wind variable: the water we got yefterday brackifh and exceedingly bad. At ten o'clock at night we difpatched a letter to Mr. Latouche at Baffora, to inform him of our being on the way, and defiring him to detain any vef-fel that might be ready to go to Bombay; one L 1 of of the Arabs that joined us yefterday was felected by the Sheick to carry the letter*. December 13th. Marched at feven this morning over a very uneven country, the foil a light and deep fand. About four miles from our lalt night's encampment, we faw the track of a great number of camels and affes, which our people fufpecled to have been the encampment of a body of thieves. We turned off immediately due E. and paffed over a deep fand, and a country covered with find and bufhes; in fome places the ground was covered with dried mud and fand, which by the heat of the fun was hardened fo as to appear like broken tiles; there was no appearance of a road. About two o'clock we obferved two people at fome diftance from us, and fent three of our men after them, who took one of their camels and brought it to us, but the people efcaped. At four o'clock halted at a place where there were a number of fprings, but not much water • Did not the Arabs much to their honour confider their faith once pledged as inviolable, they would not in this manner put themfelves in the power of ftrangers, who but an inftant before were in arms againft them. The man delivered the letter exactly at the time prefcribed and brought an anfwer, for which he was paid ten dollars. in in the wells; this evening for the firft time we caught a defert rat, of which we had feen a great number; it is an animal that refembles very mu ch a fmall rabbit both in fhape and colour, the body is about the fize of a fmall mole, the tail three times the length of the body, the point of which is covered with a fmall bufh of hair; the eyes are large, full and black, the hind legs remarkably long. Weather fair, wind S. E. and very hot; paid the Sheick one hundred and ten dollars, the laft payment of the five hundred kept for dilburfements on the road. December 14th. Rained at two o'clock in the morning: marched at feven this morning over a plain country, a cold breeze from the S. E. and cloudy, halted at four o'clock. Courfe S. E. December 15th. Marched at feven this morning over a country of light fand and moftly barren; at nine in the morning faw a man on a camel, who told us he was a meffenger going to the Sheick of theMontiffeeks from Sheick Sidon; he alfo informed us that Baffora was ftill in the hand of the Perfians. In the evening we perceived fome men on camels to the northward, but they did not come near us; we fuppofed them to LI 2 be be of the fame tribe as the man that paffed in the morning; halted at five o'clock. Weather cloudy and fome few drops of rain, wind W. N. W. and very cold, courfe S. E. by E. December 16th. Lightning to the N. E. marched at half after feven this morning, in a very dirty thickfog that cameon about oneo'clock in the morning from the N. E. feparated from the caravan belonging to Khwaja Rubens, which went to Graine, and we proceeded towards Baffora with only fixteen men and nineteen camels. Our Sheick gave all the water to the other party, thinking we fhould arrive in the evening at the village of Coebda; but he was miffaken in the diffance; for although we kept moving on till ten, we were obliged to pafs the night very uncomfortably for want of fomething to drink : the very great concern expreffed by the good old Sheick prevented our reproaching him for his imprudence ; he offered to ride all night to fearch for water, but of courfe we did not allow him to fatigue himfelf. December 17th. A violent fog came on again laft night, and continued fo heavy as to foak through the tent. Early in the night before the fog came on, we faw three or four fires, apparently rently at the diftance of three or four miles to the E. N. E. the Sheick informed us they were on the banks of the Euphrates. Marched at day-break, and at half an hour after nine came to the village of Coebda, which had been ruined by the Perfians; here we got fome good water, at leaft it appeared fo to us who had not tafted any for more than twenty-four hours. We alfo met at Coebda the perfon we had fent with the letter to Baffora, who brought an anfwer from Mr. Latouche. About one o'clock we arrived at Zebeer, another place which had alfo been de-ftroyed by the Perfians. In the evening Mr. Latouche, by a fecond meffenger informed us, that in the morning he fhould fend us mules and an efcort; for as hoftilities ftill continued between the Arabs and the Perfians, our efcort could not accompany us any further: the Weather cleared up a little about noon, but was not quite clear until the evening. We pitched our tents amongft the ruins of Zebeer, and ftationed an advanced picquet in front towards Baffora to guard againft being furprifed by the Perfians; nor can this precaution be deemed unneceffary, confidering the violent animofity that fubfifted between the two nations, of which the following relation will Sufficiently explain the caufe. When When the Perfians took Baffora, they appointed Aly Mahomed governor of it, leaving 1 with him agarrifon of feven thoufand five hundred men. Although he was fuch a monfter, as is only to be found amidff the ruins of a country; he had art enough to conceal his difpofition, until by an affected moderation, he had thrown the inhabitants of the adjacent towns and villages off their guard. In about two months however, he broke out, beginning his exceffes in the city of Baffora itfelf. The firll victim of his luft was the daughter of an Arabian phyfician, the fame of whole beauty having reached him, he caufed her to be brought to his houfe, where he kept her for three days, and then turned her out of doors, expofed to the infults of the mob. The father had followed his daughter to the houfe of the ravifher when fhe was torn from him, and had never quitted his door; fo that he was the firft perfon to receive her when fhe was again difmiffed. He conducted her home, intending on the way, in compliance with the cuftoms of his country to put her to death; but before he could execute his intentions, his affection for his only child prevailed over his regard to cuftom ; and he determined, not only to fave her life, but alfo as much as poffible by marriage, to wipe out the the. ftain her reputation had received. He was rich and much refpeeted in the city, which added to the beauty of the girl, enabled him to get a hufband for her; not entirely equal to her proper rank, and former pretentions; but at the fame time greatly above the vulgar. The celebration of fuch a wedding could not fail to make a great noife, and of courfe was foon known to the tyrant: whilff he continued fober the news of it fcemed neither to afford him pleafure or pain; but in the firft fit of intoxication, he fent for the father, the hufband and the wife, and afked them how they durfl prefume to difpofe of a perfon devoted to his pleafure? without waiting to receive their anfwer, he made one of his guards cut off the heads of the father, and the hufband, and then compelled the woman to bring water to wafh their blood off the hands of the executioner; nor did he flop here, but the fequel of his conduct was not only too fhocking, but alfo too indecent to be related. Notwithstanding fuch unheard of barbarity, the major part of the inhabitants of Zebeer and Coebda were fo infatuated as to continue to live within twelve miles of him; imprudently relying on the faith of one who had thus thus publicly violated all laws, both divine and human. A few, and but very few of the moll prudent of them had left either of thefe places, when one night in a fit of drunkennefs, and in-ifigated by avarice, Aly Mahomed marched from Baffora with a body of troops and burnt Zebeer; at the fame time putting to death all thofe who attempted to efcape from the flames: from thence he marched to Coebda, where he acted in the fame manner, and then returned to Baffora; exulting as much in having treacheroufly maffacred, in cold blood, a number of defencelefs people, as if he had obtained a glorious victory over a powerful army. Submissive as the Subjects of defpotic governments generally are, even under the heavieft oppreflions; the inhabitants of Baffora would certainly have revolted againfl the governor, had not the city been almoft depopulated, both by plague and famine before it fell into the hands of the Perfians. The few wretched inhabitants who fnrvived thefe dreadful calamities, could neither refift their tyrant, nor efcape from him; their number was too fmall to hope for fuccefs againft his force, and to remove from the city was impoffible: they were therefore almoft reduced duced to defpair when the gallant tribe of Arabs called Montiffeeks determined to refcue them from fuch a dreadful fituation. Sheick Tamur, the chief of this tribe having 0 collected an army of about fifteen thoufand men, advanced with a felect party of about two thoufand horfe within fight of the walls of Baffora ; the remainder he left about fifteen miles in the rear, concealed in a wadi, or water courfe, near the river Euphrates which place the Arabs def-tined for the fcene of action; for befides the Euphrates to the Eaff, and the water courfe to the North, there was a deep morafs to the South. Aly Mahomed who did not want for persona! courage, no fooner perceived his enemies near Baffora, than he marched out with five thoufand chofen troops to attack them; the Arabs retreated towards their ambufcade, and were followed by the Perfians. When the Sheick perceived the Perfians had got between the water courfe and the' morafs, he fallied out of the place of his concealment 1 and with a part of the troops having clofed up the only opening to the Weffward, he charged them fword in hand, in which being alfo well feconded by the other detachment, w'hich had decoyed them towards the ambufcade^ they together put every man of the Perfians to M m death, death, not leaving one alive to carry back the news of their defeat. By an over-fight, very difficult to be accounted fjf, Sheick Tamur neglected to purfue his victory, and march directly to Baffora, of which doubtlefs he would have eafily made himfelf matter; for Aly Mahomed had left only a fmall garrifon in it, who would neither have had ftrength or fpirit enough to have made any refinance. This account we received from one of the former inhabitants of Zebeer, whom we found employed in fearching among the ruins for what might have efcaped the hands of the Perfians, when they plundered and deflroyed the place. In the evening we fettled accounts with the Sheick, and fo far from finding him mercenary and felfifh as thefe people are generally repre-fented; he behaved to us with a politenefs and liberality that would have done honour to the moft polifhed European. It will be remembered that by our written agreement at Aleppo, I was to give him five hundred dollars on the road, and eight hundred more on our arrival at Graine : the former fum therefore I kept ready to be paid to his order; but the latter I counted and fealed tip in a bag to prevent any of them being loft or miilaid. miilaid. When this bag was brought, as I was going to open it, the Sheick flopped me; afking if it had been counted and fealed up in my pre-fence : and when I anfwered in the affirmative, with a carelefs unaffected air, befpeaking no merit from the action, he threw it over his fhoulder and ordered his fervant to put it into his trunk. The reader will eafily believe that this mark of his confidence gave me no fmall Satisfaction j it was the more ftriking from our fituation ; for had I deceived him, he durft not have followed me to Baffora to demand redrefs. But left the mention of this trait of Arabian politenefs mould be imputed to vanity; I mall at the conelOfion of this work endeavour to account for the good ilriderftanding fubfifting between us, and alfo to explain the caufes of the difputes which too often happen between the Europeans and the Arabs. December i 8th. At eleven o'clock the mules arrived from Baffora, efcorted by ten fepoys belonging to the factory; after taking leave of the Ar.ibs, with mutual profeflioris of friendfhip; and a requefl from our honeft Sheick, that we would fend for him to accompany us if ever wTe paffed that way again, we left Zebeer. M m 3 As the fepoys were on foot, and moved {lowly, We left them with the baggage and rode on towards Baflbra. About half way we were met by Mr. Abraham and Mr. Gaily, two of the company's fervants, who very politely came po meet and conduit us to the Englifh factory, at which we arrived rather before three in the afternoon: the appearance of Balfora was exceedingly gloomy, having as I have before obferved been almoft depopulated by a plague, a liege, and a famine. In the year 1772, there was fuppofed to be upwards of four hundred thoufand inhabitants in the place, and on the day of our arrival, there were certainly not more than fix thoufand, including the Perfians ; the principal ftreets were like a burying ground, with Scarcely a Space of three feet between each grave. December 19th. Mr. Latouche endeavoured to get a country boat to convey us to Mufcat, but he could not procure one without fending to Bunder Reeg, or Bunder Aboufhaher; called by us Bunder Bufhire. December 20th. The difficulty of procuring a boat was increafed by an order fent from Shiras, to detain all boats for the ufe of the troops in their march to reinforce the garrifon. This day we rode about the city, which in every part of it wore the fame fame gloomy appearance. The few Arabian inhabitants that remain fhewed great refpedt to Mr. Latouche as he palled along the if reets, on account of his generality and humanity towards them and their countrymen ; one hundred and fifty of whom, after the reduction of the place he redeemed from flavery, at his own private expence, and fent to their relations in the country: an action that does honour to him, and even to the country that gave him birth. December 21ft. News came that the Sheick of Julfa had taken a velfel belonging to Bombay, and fold the crew and pafiengers for Haves : this intelligence induced the gentlemen here to advifc us to flay for a fhip, as in country boats they thought we rifqued falling alfo into the Sheick's hands who might treat us in the fame manner; but we were not at liberty to flay, having promifed before we left England not to wait for a fhip, if a boat could be procured. December 22d. The fame difficulties flill continued about procuring a boat, but before the end of the month, we were promifed what is called a doa, which is a boat of twenty or thirty tons burthen, fewed with coir rope. The boats in which the inhabitants crofs the Euphrates, to and from the the city are nothing more than large round wicker bafkets lined with leather; in which they carry not only men, but alfo horfes, and fometimes camels. December 23d. Enquiring into the fuppofed caufe of the plague that had almoft depopulated this unfortunate city, I found it was in general imputed to an extraordinary inundation of the river, which left a great quantity of fifh on the defert, and thofe fifh becoming putrid, infecting the air. In riding about the environs of the city we faw an immenfe quantity of fifh-bones ftill lying on the ground. The plague generally rages with moft violence in Turky and Egypt 5 in March and April, at which time the weather is extremely hot. As heat feems to increafe the virulence of this difor-der; as the weather is hotter in Hindoftan than it is in Turky; as the inhabitants alfo profefs the fame religion, obferve the fame cuftoms, eat the fame food, live in cities built in the fame manner, and alfo in houfes formed of the fame materials, it is furprizing that the inhabitants of India have never been afflicted with this dreadful diforder; nor indeed can I find that it has ever been known within the Tropics, not even in Arabia1 Felix. So far from ufing uncommon precautions to guard againft the r the infection; when the plague had depopulated Baffora, the mips coming from thence performed only five or fix days quarantine on their arrival at any of the ports of India. I do not fcruplc to acknowledge that theie hints are thrown out with a view to prevail on fome humane and enlightened philofopher to turn his thoughts to the inveitiga-tion of this matter. If the plague has never reached India, nor has even been known in the northern parts of Europe .for.many years paft; might not fome reafon be affigned for its ftill continuing to rage in the milder climates between the two extremes ? Could this dreadful difordcr be driven from the face of the earth, which in my poor opinion is not impofiible; a number of valuable lives would annually be faved, and the Levant would no longer be embarrafied with the tedious forms of a long quarantine. Befides an eaiy communication being once opened between thofe countries and Europe; \t is to be hoped the abfurd prejudices which have fo Ions; rendered the Chriftians and Mahomedans hoftile to each other, would die away; and that real philanthrophy, and universal urbanity, would fucceed to favage perfecution, and groundless hatred, Decem- December 24th. At five o'clock in the afternoon, Saduc Khan entered the city, at the head of about four thoufand horfe. His men were flout and well-made, but they were miferably drefied and accoutred. The Prince himfelf is a very handfome man ■, as indeed are molt of the Perfians of diflinc-tion, being the offspring of the handfomefl women of Georgia and Circaffia, as well as of their own country. December 25th. Early this morning the matter of a doa came to treat with us for ins boat; at firfl he was very exorbitant in his demand; but at length became more reafonable, and promifed to make it ready without delay. It being Chrifl-mas-day Mr. Latouche invited moft of the Chrif-tian gentlemen to an entertainment at the factory: amongft which we found fome of the Catholic mif-lionaries very converfable agreeable men. Although no epicure, I cannot help remarking that the flefh of the wild hog which was one of the difhes we had for dinner, was by far the finefl meat I ever tailed, which is probably owing to its feeding entirely upon dates. December 26, 27, and 28th. Making preparations for our voyage, the Nakhuda or Captain promifed to fail before new year's day. Decem-* December 29th. The Nakhuda called this morning, and faid he mould weigh anchor the next day with the ebb, which made about two o'clock in the afternoon. December 30th. About two o'clock we left the factory accompanied with the gentlemen belonging to it, who during our flay at Baffora constantly treated us with the greater! politenefs and holpitality : they remained a little time on board the doa and then took leave; as they went out of the boat we weighed anchor with a light breeze at N. W. and the tide in our favour : in the morning we came to an anchor again at Ahoo ul Khufeeb, where we remained to get wood, rice and dates, which are remarkable cheap and good at this place; Major Thomfon flayed behind at Baffora. December 31ft. Remained at anchor until one o'clock, then weighed, the wind at N. W. at twelve o'clock the wind dying awTay and the tide againft us, we came to again : The river is about a mile and a quarter wide all the way from Baffora, and planted on both fides with date trees, amongfl which a few towns and villages are mterfperfed, which have a very pleafing effect. We faw great numbers of wild ducks, and other water-fowl on the river, but could not get within gun-mot of N n them. them. At four in the evening we weighed anchor, and paffed the mouth of a river to the Eaftward, which they faid was the boundary of the Baffora country, and the beginning of the Shaub. January iff, 1779. Weighed at fix this morning with a light breeze at N. N. W. at day break we loft fight of the land, fleered till twelve o'clock, E. S. E. then afterwards E. by N. by an obfervation found ourfelves in the latitude of 29. 41. North, the weather rather cloudy; we paffed feveral boats going towards the mouth of the river. January 2d. The wind at N. W. and the weather fair; about ten o'clock we faw the land bearing South, and about one o'clock paffed Cape Bang. On the mountains of Bang, there appeared a large fort, which our people faid was built by the Greeks, and before it was in ruins was deemed impregnable. January 3d. In the night the wind blew exceedingly hard with a high fea j the fail having been torn by the violence of the wind we lay to, whilft they cut it up to half its former fize. At day break we made fail again, but the fail being torn a fecond time, and alfo the rudder damaged, we came to an anchor off Bunder Reeg, about three miles miles from the fhore. We wanted to get into that place, but wre had over/hot the port; and were therefore obliged to ftand on towards Bunder Abou-fhaher, called by the Europeans Bunder Bufliir. As the wind blew frefh, and the fea ran high, for want of a fail and a rudder the boat was feveral times in danger of filling. In the afternoon the wind moderated, and at four in the evening finding ourfelves off Abouiliaher, we flood into the road, and went on fhore to our factory, where Mr. Beaumont the refident received us with the greateft poll tcnefs. January 4th. The doa came into the harbour; on examining her we found that me not only wanted all kinds of ftores, but alfo that her rudder was entirely deflroyed; the wind blew ftrong from the fouth ward. January 5th. Finding the captain dilatory in purchafing ftores and neceilaries for the voyage, we threatened to buy them for him, and to deduct: the '-.rice of them out of the balance of freight!, which he was to receive at Mufcat; to avoid which he himfelf bought an anchor flock, fome fpare rope, and two fmall fails, the wind at S. E. the weather cloudy with rain. Nn 2 Janu- January 6th. The Nakhuda continued repairing his doa, and promifed to be ready in the evening; wind and weather as yefterday. I made fome enquiries of a man who had been at Perfepo-lis, concerning the prefent ftate of the ruins of that city; he called it Tuckta Jumftiid, and faid that there are only a few pillars and arches left, which are almoft covered with bufhes. The Grecian name of Perfepolis was totally unknown to him; he reckoned it about one hundred and twenty miles from Aboufhaher. Finding this man equally in-intelligent and communicative, I enquired of him alfo the prefent ftate of the modern cities, and indeed of the empire in general: he informed me that Ifpahan, or as he called it Isfahan, was now almoft entirely deferred; the feat of Government being transferred to Shiras, where Kerreem Khan the prefent Sovereign, or as he calls himfelf, the protector, refides. Kerreem Khan was one of the ableft Generals of the famous Nadir Shah, better known in Europe, by the name of Kouli Khan; when his mailer was aifaffinated, Kerreem Khan marched towards Perfia, and having a large body of troops devoted to him, he affumed the reins of government, which he has held ever fince. A Prince coming to a throne by hereditary fuccefiion, or by election, may venture to refide in an open city city like Ifpahan • but an ufurper muft. endeavour to fecure himfelf with fortifications: for this reafpn Kerreem fixed upon Shiras, which is furrounded with a wall and a ditch, fuiEciently ftrong to rcfift the attacks of the Perfians; and in order to render himfelf ftill more fecure, he has obliged all his principal officers to bring their women into the city, from which none of them can ever go out again without his permiffion. Could any other advantages compenfate for the want of liberty, the Perfians would have no reafbn to complain of the rigour of this order; for at Shiras they certainly enjoy every pleafure that can be derived from a fine climate, and a fertile foil; they have fruits and vegetables of all kinds in abundance; and of the grapes they make a wine, the qualities of which have been celebrated by their well known Poet Hafiz, who has alfo fpoke of the ladies with fuch enthufiafm, as to fay the truth, would only become an oriental writer, but ftill there is no doubt of their being extremely beautiful: nor are the arts entirely unknown there, for at Shiras, they manufacture the fineft fword blades in the world, and adorn the handles of them with an enamel which would be admired even in London or Paris. Nothing in fhort is wanting to make Perfia a terref-trial pafadiie, excepting a regular government. The Ufur- t 23S ] Uiurper Kerreem is now dead, and has left a number of different competitors for the throne, but whatever fucceffor he may have will find, he has much to do to unite a kingdom which for fo many years has been in a ftate of anarchy and confufion. The great Kouli Khan ruined Perfia : the force he collected for the invaflon of Hindoftan excited in the nation in general a fpirit of enterprize and adventure; and the influx of wealth from the plunder of that country, entirely deftroyed the Spirit of in-duftry. In confequence of wmich, the cultivation of the lands has been neglected, trade abandoned, and thofe troops which were levied for conqueft, having diilipated what they acquired by plunder; have ever fince been ravaging their own native country. The fate of Perfia may ferve as a leffon to all other nations, to prefer the more flow but falutary profits of trade. Superfluous wealth occa-fions a kind of frenzy in a kingdom, during the pa-roxifms of which it feems to have acquired uncommon ftrength; but being exhaufted by unnatural exertions, it at length finks down a miferable victim' to its diforder*. Janu- * It has been laid that Lord Clive pixipofed to pay the national debt by an expedition to China : he might in a convivial moment January 7tfi. The Nakhuda promifed to have the doa ready to fail in twenty-four hours, if the wind permitted. In the evening of this day there was a violent fquafl of wind from the S. E. accompanied with thunder, lightning and rain, which was the breaking up of the weather; for in the night the wind came round to the north-ward with a moderate breeze. January 8th. The Nakhuda called in the morning to inform us he fhould fail in the evening about five o'clock, at which time we embarked and failed in company with two trankeys bound to Gombroon, the wind N. N. W. and the weather fair. January 9th. Fair weather with a frefh breeze at N. W. faw the mountain and Cape Eurdiffan, and at twelve o'clock bore away N. N. E. towards a fhoal called the Cock, that we paffed at one o'clock in the afternoon, and upon which two Englifh fhips have been loft; one of them in the ment amongft his friend have faid fuch afehemewns practicable, and fo it certainly is; but he was too found a politician, to wifh, to fee one hundred and rlfty millions of fpecie the amount of the national debt in his time, introduced at once into England, knowing as he muft that the fudden introduction of one half of that fum, has irrecoverably ruined Pcriia one of the moft highly gifted countries in the world. year year 1763. On the mountain of Burdiftan they ufed formerly by fignals of fire in the night and. of linoak in the day to convey intelligence to the merchants at Shiras, of the appearance of the fhips expected from India; that they might inflantly come to Aboufhahef to purchafe their goods. Latitude obferved 27. 53. North. January 10th. About two o'clock in the morning it grew calm, and continued fo all day : about fix in the evening a light breeze Sprung up from S. S. E. About four miles from the fhore faw Cape Naband E. by N. latitude 27. 11. North. January iith. Calm till about feven in the morning, then a light breeze fprung up from the N. W. faw a fmall boat coming from the Southward, and two others from the Eaflward, faid to belong to a pirate called Abd ul Rheman, they did not come within gun fhot of us, but hovered about us till dark and then appeared no more. Within about fix miles of the fhore on which are high rocks called Dar ul Afban that appeared white like chalk, latitude obferved 27. 8. North. January 12th. A frefh breeze from the N. W. and fair weather, paffed 'by the Ifland of Sheick Sheick Shaub, Shudwan and Handerahy, latitude obferved 26. 43. North, January i 3 th. Calm the greateft part of the night and this morning, at eleven o'clock came on a frefh breeze from the N. W. which continued till feven in the evening, palled by the Iflands about five, faw the highland about Gombroon bearing E. N. E. latitude obferved 26. 23. North. January 14th. Light airs and variable, paffed the Iflands of Kefh and Belior, latitude 26. 24. North. January 15th. The wind at N. E. and blew frefh, coming further to the eaft ward. In the morning we ran in towards the Illand of Kifmis, near a place called Daag ul Kumuck, came to an anchor after ten o'clock, calm, latitude obferved 26. 36. North. Two people who came in a fmall boat from the fhore, confirmed to us the report that Mahomed Rafhid Sheick of Julfa, had taken one of the company's veffels, going from Bombay to Baffora, and fold the crew for flaves. January 16th. At nine in the morning weighed anchor, and went round the Weft end of the Ifland of Kifmis, called by the Perfians Touly, and came to an anchor again off Ras, (cape) Baftido O o which which hy an obfervation lays in the latitude of 41. North. The people faid that between twenty and thirty years ago, there had been a fettlement of Europeans here; we few the remains of a church, and the ruins of a large town that had been built with bricks dried in the fun. At two in the afternoon weighed with a light breeze at S. W. and the tide in our favor, the channel between Kifmis and the main at this, place is about four miles wide. At Baffido we got a frefh fupply of water, which was taken out of a refervoir that had been built by the Europeans, paved all through with a white, ftone : at this time there were not ten houfes inhabited in this large ruined town, all which were Perfians. January 17th. Came to an anchor at half paft ten at night, and did not weigh again until fix the next morning. About feven we arrived amongft a parcel of Iflands covered with trees moft of which ftood two feet or more in the water; the Iflands are divided by very narrow channels, fo that the trees almoft meet and form a kind of arbour. About eleven o'clock it being calm and the tide making againft us we again came to an anchor; the people whilft they wrere cutting wood faw three large wild hogs and fome pigs. At half after eleven in the forenoon it began to rain hard, and to blow frefh from the N. W. which continued till two o'clock \ w clock; then cleared up and being a fettled wind we weighed. Until five in the evening we continued lading through a narrow channel, amongft the Iflands, and then came in light of a fort and ruined town called Left; it is iituated under a hill on the Illand of Kifmis; the fort bore about S. W. of us at fun let; near this place we were obliged to wait for our boat that Sheick Aly the Nakhuda had fent on more for fome wood and fifh for his own private ufe. About four in the afternoon made fail again and paffed by a galivat belonging to Sheick Mahomed Miny of Ormus. No ob-fervatiOn on account of the hazinefs of the weather* January 18 th. At night calm, the tide making againft us, came to an anchor. In the morning at day break weighed with a light breeze to the S. W. Gombroon bearing about N. N, E. In the afternoon the wind frefliened and came further to the weft ward, blowing very hard from five to feven in the afternoon, and then it began to moderate, no obfervation. Cape Salamet on the Ifland of Mahomed Salamet bore at fun fet, about S. W. January 19th. The wind continued to blow exceedingly hard from the wTeftward, which made the veifel both roll and pitch very much: at half after eight the fail was broken by the violence of the O o 2 wind; wind; unbent it, and bent a fmaller. The middle of the night being exceedingly cloudy, the Arabs for want of a compafs did not know which way to fleer; they had been going above two hours due North when we difcovered it, and put them right; they had been deceived by a change of wind and bad flcerage. In the morning came on a frefh breeze to the N. W. which continued till ten in the morning, it then grew calm, and afterwards fprung up from the fame quarter: latitude obferved 26. 29. North, diftant from the fhore about five leagues, high mountain near Cape Mozandan. The town of Lema bore of us at noon S. W. by W. the afternoon little wind and cloudy all round. January 20th. About one o'clock this morning came on a frefh breeze at North, which in-creafed with a following fea: about four o'clock in the morning our tiller rope broke, and it was with much difficulty we prevented the veffel from flying to. Three men got overboard to mend the rudder, in the mean time the veffel rolled fo much that there was danger of her filling, or at leaft of her carrying away the maft; in about an hour the rudder being repaired, wre got under fail again, the weather being dark and fqually j the Nakhuda or Captain, and the Mallecm, or pilot, thought it unfafc to continue any longer at fea, and therefore put in at Khorfa- kan, kan, which is fituated on the coaft of Arabia, in a fmall bay open only to the Eaft ward; on the S.E. fide of the bay is a harbour for boats, where we lay in fmooth water, and entirely meltered from all winds, it rained exceedingly hard the whole day, and confequently \vetted our baggage and beds. At feven in the evening the clouds difperfed, and it began to clear up. January 21ft. About two o'clock this morning came on a very hard fquall of wind and rain, with violent thunder and lightning from the N. W. which continued near an hour; had we been at fea we muft inevitably have foundered in lefs than five minutes, for although we lay in a place furrounded with hills, the violence of the wind ftiook the veifel as if me had been ftruck by a broadiide from a large fhip. The wind being at S. E. we could not move, therefore at day-break we went on fhore to the top of the hills to take a view of the country, and dry our cloaths, &c. on a fmall hill to the Weftward of this little harbour, is a ruined caftle, formerly built by Nadir Shah, to cover a magazine for his ftores, when his troops befieged Mufkat. The town which is fituated at the bottom of the Bay was once confiderable, but at prefent con-. fifts fills only of two or three houfes built of ftone* the reft are filhermens huts. January 220*. At nine at night the wind beino- fet in at N. W. and the weather fair, we weighed anchor from Khorfakan. When out at fea we faw fome lightning from the S. E. At eleven at night the wind began to frefhen from the N. W. and at one blew in hard fqualls; at feven in the morning our tiller rope broke, which had not been mended above a quarter of an hour when a hard fquall came, and the rudder itfelf was broken: as it was impofflble to mend it without unhanging it, fome of the people went overboard for that purpofe, and in half an hour brought the remainder of the rudder on board ; but it was full four hours before it was repaired : in the mean time, as we could not lay the veffel to, we lowered down the fail, and the veifel lay with her broadfide to the wind; we expected fhe would fill every moment, for the wind blew very hard in fqualls, with a fhort and heavy fea, when the rudder was mended, fix of our people got into the fea to fix it. About twelve o'clock, with much difficulty we got her head round and fcudded before the wind; juft after we had repaired the rudder, we faw Cape Shenes, bearing weft, wen:, latitude obferved 24. 34. N. We had no obfervaticn at Khorfakan, but from its bearing and diftance this day at noon; I fhould fuppofe it lays in latitude 25. 13. North. January" 23d. At ten laft night, in fhift-ing the fail to haul in for the land, our tiller-rope broke again, and the veffel flew up in the wind. We tried when the rope was mended to bring her head round again to our proper courfe, but in vain, and therefore fleered as much as we could to the weftward. Our people were fo much harraffed by the fatigues of the preceding day and night, that they could not be prevailed upon to exert themfelves ; but on the contrary were fulky and quarrelfome, upbraiding us with being the authors of their diftreffes, in obliging them to leave Khorfakan before the weather was fettled. Our veffel being very lively fhipped no fea, although the wind and fea encreafed considerably. At day-break in the morning, paffed between the iflands of Sawady, and the town of Sohar on the Main : the wind being much more moderate, at five in the morning we came to an anchor at Mufcat. The entrance of the outer port where we anchored is defended by feveral batteries even with the water's edge; but the Arabs Arabs with fome reafon depend moil: upon two forts, erected upon hills, commanding the mouth of the inner harbour, which are called Marany and Jillaly j not being acquainted with the rules of this place, we narrowly efcaped getting into a fcrape; for as no boats are allowed to go on fhore after fun-fetfrom the outer port, the guards Rationed in the two above-mentioned forts fired at us; but fortunately they were bad markfmen, only one of their (hot Ifruck the boat. The Succefs, Grab, from Bombay, which was bound to Baffora with difpatches, was lying in the inner harbour; we went to the houfe of Narrain-dofs, the Englifh broker, which although not a very elegant habitation appeared to us, who had been expofed to violent wind and inceflant rain for eight and forty hours, a perfect palace. January 24th. In the morning Captain Twyfs came and told us he fhould fail for Baffora the next day. He had fix Englifh gentlemen paffengers with him that were going over the defert, and alfo Monfieur Borel de Bourg, the French officer, who had been plundered and wounded by the Arabs on the defert. Monfieur Borel wifhing to hear the lateit news from Europe, and perhaps alfo being defirous of convex- verfing with a perfon who had lately travelled the fame route as himfelf, came and fpent the evening with me at the broker's houfe. I told him that I was no flranger to what had befallen him on the defert, and eafily prevailed on him to give me an account of his adventures. The particulars of the bufinefs upon which he was fent, he of courfe concealed, but in general terms he informed me that Coon after the engagement between the two fleets near Breff, in July 1778 ; Monfieur de Sartine, his friend and patron ordered him to carry "difpatches over land to India. I think he faid he left Marfeilles on the third of Auguft; but that owing to the ftupidity of the Captain of his veffel, and to contrary winds, he did not arrive at Latichea before the end of the month ; from thence he immediately proceeded to Aleppo. The French Conful could not collect more than twenty-five guards to attend him acrofs the defert; with which, on the fourteenth of September, he began his journey. He met with no ferious mo-leffation, until he was within fifteen days of Baffora, when early one morning he perceived himfelf followed by a party of about thirty Arabs mounted on camels, who foon overtook him. P p As t ] As they approached, he by his interpreter de-iired they would pleafe to advance, or halt, or move to the right or left of him, for he chofe to travel by himfelf; they anfwered that they fhould not interfere with him, and went forwards at a brifk rate. Mr. Borel's people then fuf-pected them of fome hoffile defign, and told him to be upon his guard. In the evening, between four and five o'clock, he obferved them halted and drawn up as if to oppofe him ; and in a few minutes three other parties, confifting alfo of about thirty each appeared in fight, in oppofite directions, feemingly inclined to fur-round him: from thefe appearances very naturally concluding their intentions to be hoffile, and confequently his fituation defperate, like a gallant man he thought only of felling his life as dearly as poftible; he was armed with a double barrelled fuzee, a pair of piftols, and a fabre. As he kept marching on, he firft: fell in with the party in front, who fired at him, which he returned as foon as he came within mufket fhot of them, and killed the Sheick; when he had difcharged his fire arms, before he could load them again, feveral of the Arabs broke in from different fides, and cut him down. Stunned writh the violence of the blow, he knew nothing that that palled afterwards, until about an hour before day-break the next morning, when he found himfelf entirely naked on the ground, a quantity of blood near him, and part of the flefh of the fide of his head hanging upon his cheek. In a few minutes he recollected what had paffed, but as he could feel no fracture or contufion in the fkull, he began to think his wounds were not mortal: this however was only a tranfient gleam , of hope, for it immediately occurred to him, that without clothes or even food, he was likely to fuifera much more painful death. The firfr. objects that flruck him when he began to look about him were thofe who had been killed on both fides in the a&ion; but at the diftance of a few hundred yards, he foon afterwards perceived a great number of Arabs feared round a large fire: thefe he naturally fuppofed were his enemies; neverthelefs he determined to go to them, in hopes, either to prevail on them to fave his life, or elfe to provoke them to put an immediate end to his miferies. Whilfl he was thinking in what manner without the afliflance of language he mould be able to excite their companion, and to foften their refentment againft him for the death of their companions, which thefe people he had heard feldom forgive: it oc- P p 2 curred t 25^ ] curred to him, that they paid great refpedt to age • and alfo that they feldom deftroy thofe who fupplicate mercy; from whence he concluded, that if he could throw himfelf under the protection of the oldeft perfon amongft them, he might probably be faved. In order to approach them unperceived, he crept towards them upon his hands and knees; and when arrived within a few paces of their circle, having fingled out one who had the molt venerable appearance, he ruihed forwards and fpringing over the head of one of the circle, he threw himfelf into the arms of him, whom he had felected for a protector. The whole party were at firft extremely afto-nifhed, not having the leaft notion of his being alive; but when their furprize fubfided, a debate arofe whether or not they fhould allow him to live. One of them who had probably loft a friend or relation, drew his fword in a great rage, and was going to put him to death, but his protector interpofed, ftood up with great zeal in his defence, and would not fuffer him to be injured; in confequence of which, his adver-fary immediately mounted his camel, and with a few followers went away. When this conteft was over the Sheick, for fo he happened to be, perceiving Monfieur Borel entirely without clothes., clothes, prcfcnted him with his abba or outer cloak, invited him to approach the lire, and gave him coffee and a pipe, which an Arab when he is not on the march, has always prepared. The people finding Monfieur Borel did not understand Arabic enquired for his interpreter, who was found afleep and flightly wounded. The firff demand the Arabs made was for his money and jewels, which they obferved Europeans always have in great abundance, but which are concealed in private drawers, that none excepting themfelves can difcover. He affured them thefe opinions were erroneous with refpect to him, for that he was not a rich merchant, but only a young foldier of fortune, employed to carry orders from his government in Europe to their fettlements in India: but that if they would convey him to Graine, a place near Baffora on the fea coaft; on their arrival there, and on the receipt of his papers, he would engage to pay them two hundred chequins, about one hundred pounds fterling. After a few minutes confultation with each other they acceded to his propofals, returned him his oldeft Arabian drefs, and during the reft of his journey treated him with tolerable kindnefs and attention. After After Mr. Borel's arrival at Graine, he eafily prevailed on an Armenian to advance him the money to fulfil his engagements with the Arabs j and alfo to fend the French refident at Baffora an account of what had befallen him on the defert, defiring to be fupplied with money and other neceffaries to enable him to proceed to Pondicherry. His letter very fortunately for us fell into the hands of the Englifh refident at Baffora, who having heard of our rupture with France, was convinced he muff be charged with public difpatches of confequence, and therefore determined to arreff him. Every ge-. nerous mind will lament the neceffity there was of adding to the diftreffes of this fpirited and unfortunate youth ; but the lives of thoufands, and perhaps the fafety of our fettlements in India, depended upon his being intercepted; but to prevent his being treated with any rigour, or fuffering any indignity, Mr. Abraham the fecond in council of the factory, was employed to feize him. The town of Graine which is fituated about 70 miles S. E. of Baffora, is* governed by an Arab Sheick who is very much attached to us; but Mr. Abraham knew it would be very difficult to prevail on him to violate the rights of hofpitality to a ftranger, and without the Sheick's connivance, the execution of the project would have been ab- folutely (blutely impracticable: die better to conceal hii defign, Mr. Abraham went down to Graine at night in a country boat, accompanied by the Captain of one of our mips then lying at Baffora, and immeditately proceeded to the Sheick's houfe, to whom he communicated his bufinefs. The Arab at firft violently oppofed the meafure, but being mollified by prefents, and. alfo affured that Mr. Borel fhould not receive any perfonal injury, he at laft acquiefced. When Mr. Abraham knocked at the door, Mr. Borel was retired to reft, but hein-ftantly got up to admit him, thinking he was a perfon fent from the French refident with an an-fwer to his letter. As foon as he difcovered his miftake he attempted to defend himfelf, but he was inftantly overpowered and conveyed to the fea fide, where he was put on board the /hip that had been fent from Baffora, and was juft then come to an anchor off* the place. He had two pacquets, one for Pondicherry, and another for Mauritius, which were found ; but Monfieur Borel obferved to me, that they miffed the key of the cypher in which the difpatchcs wrere, written, by neglecting to fearch the lining of his cloaths; It was perhaps a fortunate circumftance for Monfieur Borel that he was taken prifoner by us, for his wound through Unfkilful management, and the want of proper remedies medies was grovfrn extremely bad; nor is it irri-probable that if he had attempted to proceed in a country boat, the only conveyance that he could have got at Graine; his wound would have occasioned his death long before the boat could have arrived at any French fettlements in India. I made ufe of thefe arguments to confole him for his misfortunes, but zeal for his country, the natural enthufiafm of his difpofition, and the hopes which had been given him of promotion, had he executed his commiffion, made him deaf to every thing I could fay to confole him. Difappointed but not difcouraged by his former fufferings, he was then on his way to Baffora to proceed over the great defert a fecond time; which I was afterwards informed, he paffed with every affiftance he could receive from the gentlemen of our factory. January 26th. Remained at Mufcat, the wind blowing directly into the mouth of the harbour. January 26th. Went on board the dingy at day-light, and began warping out. At eleven in the forenoon got out of the harbour and failed. The wrind began to frefhen in the afternoon, and there being appearances of its blowing ftill harder, at three in the afternoon, we put about and returned into the the harbour of Mufcat, came to an anchor off the fort of Merany. At feven in the evening another clingy that had failed at the fame time put back in a very mattered condition. The Grab that failed in the morning went away before the wind to Baffora. January 27th. The wind continued to blow exceedingly hard all laft night from the S. E. Although we lay with two anchors under the cover of a hill in fmooth water, we drove very much in the night. At day-break layed a grappling to the weft-ward, and warped towards the harbour. At eight in the morning the wind came round to the weft-ward, and blew very hard, with great clouds of duft that came off the land -y the veffel s that were going out, and alfo all the. fifhing boats immediately put back into the harbour; as our people feemed apprehenfive of a hard gale; by their advice we alfo returned into the inner harbour, where we found three dingies waiting for a fettled wind, to proceed to the Malabar coaft with us; remained in the harbour, as the fort would not let us pafs out in the evening. January 28th. At day-break in the morning began to warp out of the harbour, and at eleven o'clock got under fail, but firft went on board an Englifh fnow Qjj bound bound to Aboufhaer, commanded by Captain Johnfon who gave us a quadrant, mine having been injured by a fall; he alfo kindly offered us every other afliffance in his power. The wind at N. W. at fun-fet Cape Curiat bearing S. W. by S. diffant about five leagues. In the evening the wind began to flacken very much. January 29th. Calm all night. Came on a light breeze this morning which lafted from feven to ten ; calm all the reft of the day and the weather very hazy. Latitude obferved, 23. 15. North. January 30th. Calm the greateft part of the night. At four in the morning came on a light breeze to the N. W. At day-light faw a large veffel to the S. S. E. ftandins: to the weftward. Latitude obferved 23. 9. N. Calm fince noon, and a fwell from the N. W. January 31ft. Very little wind all night. At three in the morning a light breeze fprung up to the Southward 3 in the afternoon it came round to the Weftward, and at lafr fettled in the N. W. Latitude obferved 22. 24. February ift. Light wind all day from the N. W. and very fine weather. Latitude obferved 22.15. February 2d. Calm part of laft night, afterwards a breeze from the N. W. continued till five in the morning. Calm till twelve o'clock. Latitude obferved 21. 52. North. At two in the afternoon a breeze fprung up, which continued to frefhen. February 3d. Laft night at eleven o'clock the wind came to N. E. and frefhened to a very-fine breeze. At two in the morning paffed by two fmall dingies, fuppofed to be bound to Mufcat, but did not hail them. Latitude 21. 19. February 4th. . A frefh breeze from the N. W. and fair weather. At nine faw a veffel to the N. E. quarter, Handing to the Southward; we hauled our wind as foon as fhe appeared in fight, fuppofing her to be an enemy. She paffed within a auarter of a mile to leeward of us, without tak-ing any other notice, but hoifting her colours, which wrere Moors. Latitude obferved 20. 30. North. February 5th. Light winds at N. N. E. Latitude obferved 19. 50. North. February 6th. A fine frefh breeze at N. E. and very fair weather. At three in the afternoon layed to and founded, found forty-fix fathoms; faw QJq 2 fevera feveral fnakes, the figns of being near the Malabar Cpaft. Latitude obferved 19. 22. February 7th. Moft part of the day very little wind, and fometimes calm. About two o'clock in the afternoon the fea wind fprung up and frcfhened to a fine breeze; hove to and founded, found forty-three fathoms: latitude obferved 19. 15. Courfe E. f N. February 8th. A fine frefh breeze at N.W. for the moft part of the day. Saw the land at day light in the morning, and at four in the afternoon came to an anchor in Bombay harbour, found there the Afia man of war, Capt. Vandeput; the Royal Admiral and Morfe Indiamen, and feveral other country fhips. The Afia and the two Indiamen arrived from England the day before us. At fix in the evening wTent on fhore to the governor's houfe and delivered him the pacquets. Mr. Hornby the governor of Bombay, during our flay on that Illand, entertained us very politely at his houfe, and ordered a veffel to be got ready to convey us to Anjengo. On the 14th of February we embarked on board the Terrible bomb-ketch, Capt. Baine, and arrived at Anjengo in nine days; a. voyage at this feafon of the year on the fhe Malabar coaft is always agreeable, but was rendered particularly fo to us, from the good humour, and good fenie of our captain. Having hired a palanquin and proper people to carry it, on the 24th in the evening I fet out from Anjengo for Pallomcotta, and arrived there in three days, the diftance is ninety one Englifh miles. Miles. From Anjengo to Bringon 1— 21 Colachie — — — 20 Cotata — — — 15 The gate or barrier between the dominions of the king of Travancore and the nabob of Arcot 7 Pannagoodie — —■ ■—-5 Nagairxhara — — — — 8 Paliamcotta —- — — 15 Total 91 My friend Captain Burrington, the commandant of that garrifon, detained me one day whilft he fent orders to have palanquin bearers ready for me, at all the different ftages on the road to Madras. After leaving Palamcotta, the firft day I reached Madura, diftant about ninety-fix miles. The fecond day arrived at Tritchonoply ninety two miles: miles; here I halted half a day having reafon to believe the palanquin bearers were not lfationed. The third day in the afternoon left Tritchonoply and arrived at Cuddalore in the evening of the fourth, one hundred and eight miles: remained here a few hours, and then proceeded through Pondicherry to Madras, one hundred and fourteen miles, where I arrived in the afternoon of the fixth day. The whole diftance is eftimated at four hundred and fourteen miles, which was performed in five days and a quarter, exclusive of flopping and a few unavoidable delays on the road. The travelling pace in a palanquin is on an average about four miles an hour. It has been invariably my rule throughout this journal to acknowledge the attention I met with on the way but without proceeding in the fame manner after my arrival at Pallamcotta, and from thence - to Madras; I fhall only in general obferve that travellers in India are always received with a liberal hofpitality unknown in any other country. Not that I affect to fay there is more urbanity in India, ■ than in Europe y but as moll of the Europeans in that country are known to each other; and there are no houfes of public entertainment excepting at the prefidencies j it of courfe becomes a matter of reciprocal convenience, that the chiefs at the different [ *63 1 ent out fettlements, and the commandants of the fortified towns mould keep a kind of open houfe, for all perfons who are generally known, or properly introduced to them. How kindly and hand-fomely ff rangers are received on their firft arrival in India is a fact of public notoriety, and general admiration. The letters of introduction which petfbns carry out from England, not only procure them temporary civilities, but alfo obtain for the ladies in particular fuch a reception as almoft furpaffes belief. From the inftant of their arrival, they are confidered as belonging to the family to which they have been introduced, and from which they are never again feparated, but by death or marriage. It is hardly neceflary to obferve, that more attention has been paid to the matter, than to the ftile of this journal, particularly in that part of it which relates to the defert. But the obfervations were put down on the evening of the day on which they were made, and with no other view than to ferve as memoranda; in which form perhaps they may be moft acceptable to the generality of readers, as being the ideas of the country, as they occurred on the fpot. It may be thought that too much has been faid of wind and weather, which are feldom much noticed in books of travels by land. When When travelling in a clofe carriage, it certainly does not iignify what quarter the wind comes from, or whether it blows hot or cold: but this is not the cafe with a traveller expofed to the open air, with no other covering than the cloaths he wears. A perfon going acrofs the defert will probably be glad to know what weather he is likely to meet with on his journey, that he may equip himfelf properly ; and neither be encumbered with any thing fuperfluous, nor negledl taking any thing really neceffary. A particular confideration of the characTter of the Arabs and a more minute defcription of the defert than is contained in this journal are kept as materials for a larger work. Neverthelefs for the convenience of travellers who in the mean time may pafs that way, and for whofe ufe this journal was originally publifhed; it may be proper to give a general idea of the defert and its inhabitants, by means of which the traveller will readily become acquainted with the principal difficulties he has to encounter; and alfo with the difpoiitions of the perfons with whom he is about to affociate. The great Defert of Arabia has often been re~ prefcnted as an immenfe fpace of barren fand, which never has nor ever can be made to produce any herb herb or vegetable whatever; where confequcntly not only men could never refide, but where no animal of any kind could poffibly exist. The journal itfelf confutes that opinion; in which the attentive reader will perceive that frequent mention is made of the ruins of buildings, which in all probability are only fmall remains of what once existed on thofe fpots. Before the difcovery of the paflage round the Cape of Good Hope, when the productions of the Eaft were neceiTarily brought part of the way to Europe by land, particularly in the remote ages of antiquity; the great defert was doubt-lefs one of the principal channels of eastern commerce. At that time I fuppofe thofe buildings to have been erected,, nor can I attribute the existence of Palmyra itfelf, which is fituated in a moft barren part of the defert, to any other caufe. Water the great principal of both animal and vegetable life is not wanting. By means of thofe ravines or water courfes which communicate with the Euphrates, and alfo from the wells which are inter-iperfed throughout the defert -y water enough might be obtained, not only for domeftic ufes, but alfo to anfwer the purpofes of hufbandry. The foil in general is by no means fo barren as not to be capable of cultivation; there are but few fpots that would not yield to the perfevering hand of industry. R r Should Should the Christian powers hereafter drive the Turks out of Europe, and compel them to retreat beyond the bounds of Alia Minor; it is by no means improbable that towns and villages would then rife up on what is now called the defert; and the remains of thofe barren fpots again become, what I believe them to have formerly been, only intermediate commons; like Salilbury plain, or Baglhot heath. In defcribing the Arabs, a perfon ought to enter into very nice difcriminations, for every tribe has its peculiar character ; but as it is intended on this occalion to vindicate them only from the common imputation of being fai thief's favages ; I mall content myfelf for the prefent with giving a flight fketch of the moil ilriking features of a defert A-rab's mind. He like the reft of his fellow creatures is much governed by felf-love; but this paf-lion is fo tempered and qualified in him, by the liberal dictates of honour and hofpitality; and the mild ancl benevolent influence of pity, and com-paflion; as to preferve his uncultivated mind from finking into abfolute felfifhnefs: thefe fentiments and paffions correct even the violence of his religion's prejudices, and render him equally humane to a donquered enemy, whether a Chriftian, or a Mahomedan. Many circumstances mentioned in the the preceding journal prove that this is a faithful outline of their character, and very different from the idea generally entertained of thefe people. The Bedouins who attacked us near Tiaba could cer* tainly have cut us to pieces and made themfelves maffers of the whole of our property, but they preferred obtaining from us a moderate tribute for the merchandize belonging to Khwaja Rubens, and the Bagdad caravan. Their right to exact a tribute from pailengers may perhaps be diiputed; but it muff be remembered that they are lords of the defert, and will be paid a duty for all merchandize that paffes through their territories. Some caravans it is true are powerful enough to refill, and refufe to comply with their demands; and fo do the armies of Pruilia, Auilria, and France force their way through the dominions of the fmaller Hates of Germany: but a Frenchman mult pay cuftom-houfe duties for his goods in Germany ; as mult a German fatisfy the demands of government in France. Our caravan was attacked a fecond time, but we were too powerful for our adversaries, in confe-quence of which a treaty took place, and fourteen of their people joined our party; nor during the remainder of our journey did the leait mark of ill— Rr 2 humour ) humour or reientment break out between our people and their new affociates. It is true, that the Arabs who plundered Mr. Borel acted apparently in the firft inflance towards him with unwarrantable violence; but I am convinced they would not have gone fuch lengths had they found him difpo-fed to treat and to pay them, as we did, a moderate tribute. In the engagement Mr. Borel killed feveral of their comrades ; neverthelefs when he recovered and implored their mercy, no man could have fhewn more honour or fpirit than the old Sheick did in his defence, which could only have proceeded from the moft laudable and difmtereited motives; for it is evident from their fituation, that Mr. Borel had no opportunity of promifing him any reward for his protection. To thefe might be added many other initances of equal honour and humanity fhewn by the Arabs to Europeans, collected even from the accounts of thofe who complain moft of ill treatment from them; but I flatter myfelf that thofe I have already mentioned, together with the remarkable initances of liberality in the old Sheick when I fettled accounts with him; are fufricient testimonies of their poffefting fenti-ments and paflions that place them much above the rank of unfeeling barbarians. That That fome unfortunate travellers may have fuffered from their violence and rapacity, I do not diipute; there are thieves and affaffins in all parts of the inhabited globe and into whofe hands if rangers, not properly introduced, are molt likely to fall: but in moil of the accounts I have read complaining of the Arabs, I have found great reafon to believe that the fuiferings of the Europeans origi-ginated in their own imprudence, or elfe in the treachery of their Interpreters. The books of travels in Europe are filled with melancholy ffories of hair-breadth efcapes from robbery and murder, and conftant lamentations of infiilts and impositions. Why then are we to villify the characters of all the Arabs, and represent them as defUtute of principle, becaufe a perfon unacquainted with their language, or their manners and customs, has experienced the fame ill treatment from the worst of their countrymen, as he would have been liable to meet with in any country in Europe ? With equal propriety might a foreigner accufe all Engliih men of being cheats, and highwaymen; becaufe one of his countrymen has been impofed on at an inn j or robbed on the road between Dover and London. To fum up all that need be faid on this fub-jectfor the prefent in a few words. An European who wifhes to pafs the defert with eafe and fafety, muff muft lay aiide all his own prejudices, and not ridicule thofe of the Arabs. Before he fets out he mould have all their claims clearly afcertained—• behave to them on the way with kindnefs without familiarity—and in fettling accounts at the end of the journey, be liberally juft to them, without profufion. THE END. ■ TV4V S VJ'//lf?;Gi VPP./V; rtf* KlAVAhirr/Yr/lIF./7-A St. Aubin —- Void — Layes »— Ports Carried over 2 i* 2 li 2 I i M 2 1* i? || i *i *I i i i i *\ H H i* 2 1 i| 12 Names of Places Brought over Toul Fcia'ms ■ Nancy Dombaile ■ Luneville Benaminil Blamont Hitting Saarburg Hammai tin Phalgburg Saucrne iViltbrim S/ifew: S t r a s e 0 u r G French Foils Kebl - Bijboffoeim - S tolbi fen - Rr:dilatt - Erlihgben • • - Duriach _— Pforzheim ——— Entzivangen •- Conitadt ■- Blochinhen " Gofppinghcn ■■ Geifslinghen —— Wcjhrjleiten • Ulm - Guntzburg ■ Sufmarfhaufcn — Augsburg — E'verjburg •• Carried over Polls li-i £ if »| l| »i 2 2 i i i l| 2 i il 77 i i i i i i if i if il z i i i if i£ 21 a 2 POSTS from Calais, Names of Places Brought over Scbavalbaufen — &c. Polls 21 M u nic h-- jinzing • if Haag —— 4 Humpjing ■ if Alien Oeting —— • i| Mackel - >f Braunau--- i Altbeim —— i Rlcd - ir XJnterbaag ■ i Lam bach • yelh - i LlNTZ —■ 2 Ens - It Scrcnbcrg \-■ i Amjlallen —— If Kemmclbacb • i Molk - l£ St. Polten - *J Ferjcbling ■ ■ I Sicbartjbircben —• 1 Murkersdcrf •• i Vienna - ■ - i German Polls 53* The French Poft on an average is five Englifh miles. The German Folk on an average is nearly cwelve Englifli miles. POSTS fromOsTEKDEby Cologne to Vienna. Oftcnde to Bruge« —— Alter ——' 2 Ghent ■ z Quadregt • i Aloll ■- i; Carried over Names of Places Brought over Afcbe - Brussels —— Louvain —— Tirlemont -.....■ St. Trend —— Tongem • • . Maestricht —-Aix —— Jnliers — Bergen ■ Coliocne -1 . Foil* 7 if i| 3 2 2 ii i 2 If I a 27 iVo/«, At Cologne the roure from Hchtot-fluys, and that from Oftcnde meet. POSTS from Helveotsluys through Frankfort and Ratisbon to Vienna. Hclveotfluys to Rotterdam — Dart — Gorcum — — Louejlein Cajlle — Botnmel, on tbe ri-ver Waal Nimeguen ■ Cleves ' Santen ,--- Hockftrat — Nuys ■ Dormain ■■ -■ Cologni •-. Bonn - Remagen —— Andernacb * Coblentz — Naflau — Najieden • Carried over « o c 1*1 4* 4 f 31 2 2 2 2 1 I I 2 »1 if I «9* POSTS from Hclveotfluys Names of Places Brought over • Schwuaiback ——. M a y b n c ti .- Haderjhcim -- f fhRANKFORT on the I ' Maine - H A 1ST a u Detfingen —— Afchafrcnburg — Bejenbach • ■ ■ R-d-vibrun —— Efelbach —— Romliug —— WurizBURG — Kt/zingen ——— Pofjcnheim - — Lun.enfcld ~ • ■ Emfktrcbtn • Farabach — NuRKNIiURGH — y?ar>6/ — Pofcbbaur ' 7eiuing -■ ■ — ^Tag-zvang • ■ -Hoben Scbambacb — §Ratisbon ——— #w*r - Straubingen • Platling —— Vilsbofen —■ - Paffau — Eijfenbein — Mrtzenkirchsn -■ PofTs «9l i i if i i i i i 1 H i i i i i i i ii i| 2 2 2 1. i Carried over 57 • Or from Scbwalbacb to Wifhadtn 1 poft ; to Haderfhdm i £- ; to Frankfort I poft. •f- In goin^ during the fummer feafon from Frankfort towards the Nttberlands or Ihlland; it is very pleafant to pafs by water to the place of dcltination. § It is alfo in fummer a very pleafant *°yage down the Pt/iubt from Ratifbon to Names of Places Brought over Beyerbacb • Efferding ■ Lmtz .—— ijV/j —- Strembeyg —— Jmftatten —— Kxmmelbacb «- M<*/4 - 5/. - Per/cbling ■ ■ -Sicbartjkircben — Bur kerfdarf •—• Vienna -■ Poft* 57 1 if it if 1 If 1 4 if 1 1 1 72I- POSTS from Frankfort to Augsburg. Frankfort to Hanau — 11 Detiingen •-• Jfcbajfenbourg -~ Obenburgb > Miltenbourg ■ Hundbeim - Bifchofjhcim —— Mergantbiim —— Blaufeldcn —— Creilfheim • ■ Dinkefpull —— Oetineen — — Wending - Donaivert ■ Mtittenge* — • - AUCSBVRS —"H I I I I I i f i rf if 1 if if if if if ROUT from Franckfort and Augsburg to Inspruck through Trent to Venice. Names of Places 'Aucsburo to Schwabmuchen . i 1 2 to Bucklor — 1 to Kauf beyren I to Staten — 1 to Fuefi'cn — I to Haydcrtvang I to Lcrmes — I to Nazareitb — I to Payer-vis — I to InsTHUCK — I to Schonberg — 1 to Stcnacb —1 I to Brenner — 1 to Storzingen — I to Mittcivald ■— I to Bfixen — I to Co/man — I to Tattjcben — I to Bolzano —- I to Branzol — 1 to Neumarkcl -— I to St. Micbeli — I to Trenta — 1 to Perghii — I to Borgo — 2 to Primola -— 2 to Baffano —■ 2 tp Cajlel Franco 2| to Tre-vij'o — ii to Maejiri — to Venice — M 35* Pofts • There is another route from Augsburg to Futjjitn, viz. Ilurlacb i£ polls; Scbtvabd'tjjen i poft ; Scbabbruck i poft j Suvmci/ier I poft; FveJJin i poft, POSTS from Vienna to C n-stantinople by the Way of Belcrade. Names of Places Hoc ban . Wimpa/fin* <• Gro/s ftojffhin — Vcndenburg - V/arasdorjf - Guntz • Stein Am Anger — Kortntnt •- Sxala Ege/zegb — Kahot —-■ Gro/s Kanifa — I bat os — . ■» Bn/nitz —— Babofea ■-■ lftvandi * ■ Gro/s Szigetb —■ Saint Laurent — Fttnjj' Kirchcn — Siklos — Baranyauoar '—• L afiafeld - EJjeg -, Vera —• Vukovar - No'vajella - ■■ — Pat/cb -- Kerejhitfcha - Glojcbau — " PeteriKardien —> Carlo Kliman — Kifibifar — Tzapar Bazageek Philipopoli, on the river Marizza — Papuzii — Quyali — Ujuni-tjiaua —• Hcrmenli — Muikfa Paflia Hebibchey — Adrianople, on tbe river Trtngia-Qrta and Marizza — Apfa — Efkibaba — Bitrgufe —» Kartjieran -— Scbourli — Kynicklu — Suibria — Buyuk Lbickmagee Kutcbuk Cbickmagee Constantinople Sfl 5 4 6 7 6 4 6 4 6 8 4 6 6 5 7 6 6 5? 3 5 7 4 6 4 4 6 3^ 4i 6 3 3 I'M ROUT from Constantinople to Aleppo. Names of Places Constantinople ~) acrofs the Hellef- / pont to Sender or [ Scutari — j Sender or Chrysopolis to Gbiibize — Between this poft & the next you ferry acrofs the Gulph of Nicomedia to &ir/?i — Cbinijlik —-Leu be — Scbut — Efki Shkher — Saidee Kbazze CofrufFBafha — BaMawadin —1 JJailee — Akfhehar — // Gbaun —• Conia — Ka> abeenar — Eraglie, olim Ileraclea Urucijla — Adena — Kat Callab ~ Byafs — Bylan — Antioch by Salkin Aleppo —! O -a -» #1 o 3 12 3 6 4 10 5 7 6 jo 7 9 8 IJ 9 6 IO 7 11 10 i 2 IS 13 21 H 10 15 12 16 10 »7 16 18 12 '9 9 20 7 21 10 7.2 36 Hrs. 260! N. B. On account of the troubJei in the road fioin Adcr.a to Ant'mb; the thieves having driven the Tuikifh govern r from Byafs and eflahlifhed themfelves in itj Mr, Baldwin was foiced to take the other road, as in his journal, by Car.dajb; but upon his return he had an efcoit from the thieves, and took the r'yad as above. *v«tt, An hour's travelling is eftimated a. u..ee Englifli miles, Abstract of the foregoing Journal ROUT from Aleppo to Bassora, dirccTtly acrofs the great defert. Names of Place* [ Hour: Aleppo to Neyreb ~~~ Haglier — AJhuck Majhook Juab Kuttnum, or 7 Ain-ul-Horoof j Carried over 3 9 7i ii 9i 9i 9 12$ Names of Places Brought over Haght ul Ha*vran — Ruined Village Rah aly Hidia — Birket Rabama — Alathe, two fmall forts Coebda Zebeer Bassora Hours 125 io 6 9 9 16 3* 10 10 '* S 9l 9k 8| 9\ 9 9 9 io 3 3| 3l Total Hours 2275 A Journey over the little defert of Arabia from Aleppo to Bagdad and Semmeva by the Euphrates to Bassora. Names of Places To Spheree —• Remained encamped at Spheree. Havla — —. Has Me/err — Anda Veaugul — ( Elga, or \ Tchiihiortt —• Hours 3 wn ~: p 0 a 3 E-o (r c n 0. 5 0 »! 4 12 8 30 19j 9 *5 20| to 30 *3i Remarki Fine clear rivulets of water. Well of bad water. No water. No water. No water. Journey, &c. by the Euphrates to Bassora. Names of Places f Near Ain il Kom t or Kcum —> A t Ain ul Koum — S The plain of Geboul 1 Bujhier «— Hopra Fadle —-Ferrafche — Geboul Busjhier — Dickaynia —- J The defert on the 2 rout to Routgaugh \ Routgaugh, or \ Rutgar — Quocrlajlcp — Gel/a ~ ~ Anna — — f Paffed from the north < ward of the town to (_ the fouth — Encamped. Remained encamped. Croffed the Euphrates to Der Mahomet —-El Ma/ace — from Maface left the caravan and with 13 camels travelled ex-peditioufly to ST/kr or 72»r — C To the northward of \ Bagdad fait plain f Defert from the fait , f plain in the night t Over a level defert ^ and the beaten track \of the fait caravan Hours 7 3° 1 30 8 30 10 o 6 30 8 45 8 o o 30 »5 o 30 5 0 7 30 9 45 9 20 6 o 8 30 3 WO =:3 2 sr a 3 Remarks 1*1 22* »4* 19$ 18 «9f 20^ 20£ 3s Hi l6| Ditto, Bad water. Good water. No water. No water. Two wells of bad water. No water. Several wells of bad water. No water. No water. Little rain water in the rocks. No water. Euphrates. Along the Banks of Euphrates. Encamped along the Euphrates. 31* 3°l >9j 27l No water. No Water. Well water. Paffed two wells of to. lerable water. Journey, &c. by the Euphrates to Bassora. Names of Places Same track in the night over A very level defert and the beaten track of the fait caravans to Bagdad — Hours 3 wn 3 i° II| 9 3° Remarks Suppofe there is water, but being night could not fee. Several wells and rc-fcrvoirs of good water. River Tigris. ROUTE from Bagdad to Semmeva with mules or jack afTes each carrying about one hundred and fifty pounds weight. Names of Places ''Bagdad to Azad — — — Berranefs —■ — — Secundera — — — Maha-vil — — —• Eillah — — — Emmam Alt — rr* Ramahie, with horfes loaded >— Semmeva ■ —- —- Miles Hours »3 4 3° 6 2 0 7k 2 30 12 4 0 11 3 45 30 10 0 20 6 0 52 16 0 The diftance from Aleppo to Bagdad — Bagdad to Seme-va —■ Semme-va to BaJJ'ora by water Total from Aleppo to Bajfora 874 * From Bagdad there are two paffages to Bajfora, one by the Tigris, the other by the Euphrates; that by the former is defcribed in the following extract from the journal of Cspt. Elliot Ellii ts j if the latter many accounts have be«n already giren. *' On the 1 5th of April we ti, river —1 —— — — — 3 Karat apa — — — — — 5 Afke couprie — — — —• — 7§ The Courmaratida mountains in fight to the right. Panzccurmatu —■ •— — —■ —• 8| Alton couprie — — — — —- 9 2'engee Kaun —• —1 — —• *—• 6 Zarp, river — — _ —. $L Zaa-ve —— — — —— — 1 Camalijk Gavjerkoe — —— — — 5 Psineveb, a fmall village, reputed to be the ruins of ancient ^ i Moful Hours 6 Stayed fix d:.ys at Moful. Baduie. river —. — Efcbe Moful 1'al- •f- " The caravans which pafs by Moful, which is the road we took, make a fhorter cut over ihe Defert of Tagut, to the weftward of the Tigris. We had the Bafhaw of Bagdad's pafs, which we found of very great fervice, for it procured us a very extraordinary refpeft wherever we came. Befides it exempted us from the vifiti of the cuftem houfe people. Thofe who have no pafs, had beft gratify the cuftom-houfe officers witli four or five Mamoudies, to prevent the opening of their baggage, though they have no right to demand any thing. The Turks are fuch lovers of money, that there is no danger in attempting to conupt them in their office, for you may make your bargain in as plain terms as you pleafe. From Bagdad you may get to Tbourkat or Karhut in eight days, and from thence to Moful in four- If your ftomach is a little nice, you had beft provide yourfelf with eatables at Bagdad, for the bread and rice that you may meet with on the road may not poliibly be white. However, the beft bread is to be had at Bajfora; and as for butter, you will meet with none after you leave that place till you come to Altfpt. As for our parts, we found the bread upon the road pretty good. As you travel Along, you will meet with villages on the road to ledge in from ftage to ftage. But for tin apartments they will be of little ufe, except to defend you from the weather; for there is no furniture, and it will be a rarity to find fo much as a little ftool. As for other conveniences, you are not to expert them. However, you may probably travel all along litis road, as we did, by ourfelves, without the leaft interruption or iu« civility. At Karhut, which is a flrong city, it is ufual to reft a day or two and rcplenifh your panniers; that is you muft lay in provisions for four days at leaft, which is the time you will fpend in going to Mouful, as mentioned above. As for wine, you muft take care to fupply yourfelf at Bafjora, and that for a month or more. At Bagdad you may probably replenifti your itorii as well as at Karkut j and at RLuful you muft purchafe proi-ifions of all kinds for lix days ; as alfo at CajeniUr or Mardin for Orfar, that is for fix or eight days j and afterwards at that place iut Aleppo, which is riv« days more; and among the Chrillians you will always meet with wine or brandy. The place where you are moft likely to be detained is Mouful, becaufe you muft either wait for a caravan, or hire a convoy ; which laft you may do at four rupees a. man. Jf.you will Jiften to them they will tell you, that it will be unfafe to travel without twenty or thirty of thefe people for a guard ; but I am perfuaded there is ni> fuch danger of* robbers as they pretend. However there are caiavans which fet out from this place once in every ten or fourteen days, unlefs in the depth of winter, and they take a convoy, the money to pay which is levied by the Caravan Bafhi, upon all the people of the caravan, generally in proportion to the goods which each perfon carries with him, but fometimes according to the number of hearts, and your fliare will confequently be but a trifle. The ufual time of travelling from Mouful to Madan or Rlardin is eight days, and from Mardin to O'fa feven days. The firft fix days of the journey is over a defert almolt without inhabitants, and therefore your fare will be good or bad according to the quality of the provifior.s you brought with you. Throe days after you leave the Tigris the water begins to be brackifh, and therefore it behoves you to take care to fupply youifclf with that which is good in time. The caravan makes a halt at Nifibin, the next town to Mouful, where it is virited Jv the ciMi'om-huule officers, But a geiukman that travels only with his baggage is uuder Hours Talmajk, Mil: the Sanjalk mountain on the left — | Dfffl'V (a ftream) — —• — io Geraza — — — _, — 6\ Nifibin — — •— — — 7i (From hence difpatched a letter to the Conful at Aleppo, to be delivered in feven days). Serba Kaun (a river) — — — — ij Arin — — — — — s Arrived atDiarbekir 21ft July, two o'Clock afternoon, where we flayed .— — —. —. — 25 Jnupu — — — — __. 24 Mcnijferab — —- — — — J2|- IN. B. Urfa the capital of a Bafhaw five ho urs S. W. From MenijJ'erab to Pejillekeuo a valley, and the neighbouring village Hanivab — — — — 3 Cortocour, near a flream — — — 12 Bir, or Birjoup, on the eaflern banks of the Euphrates, a large town — — — — — 5 Mazar (paffed this village) — — — 3 Encamped in a valley — — — — l|- (From whence wc difpatched another letter to Aleppo, to be delivered in 24 hours). Saguera (a town and river) — — —■ 4! (Here we received a letter from the Conful at Aleppo). Caravanfarab — — — — £ (From whence we abruptly left the Bafhaw and proceeded to Aleppo). under no neceffiry of flopping on that account, for he may proceed directly for Coje-mjj'ar, or Cojafar, which is a day's journey and a half farther. Mardin is a large town, about four or five miles out or the road, but it is w nh feeing ; and, which is a greater inducement, there is good wine to be had there, to ferve you on the road to Orft, which is five or (ix days journey more ; and there likwife you will meet with people to make up a fitihcienc caravan for the fame road." Vide Journal of Capt. Elliot Elliot. A TABLE A TABLE of the Dillance between each of the capital Cities and Towns in the Route from Bassora to Latichea. Miles From Bajfora as before to Bagdad • 489 Bagdad ——— to Gergoot •-• 167 Gergoot 1- to Ar-vcta ■ 54 Ar vet a —— to Moful - 49 Moful --- to Nifibin -■ 103 Nifibin —— to Arin -• 26 Arin ■ to Diarbekir ■ ■ - 5 5 Diaibekir — to J?/V - 147 Bir - to Aleppo -' 94. Aleppo-- to Latichea -- 102 Total of Miles 1289 F i N r s.