s t 95 VOYAGE T O NEW GUINEA* AND THE MOLUCCAS, from BALAMBANGANr INCLUDING An Account of Magindano, Sooloo, and other Islands ; and illustrated with thirty copper p late Sv PERFORMED IN THE TARTAR GALLEY, BELONGING TO THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY, During the Years 1774, 1775? and 1776, By Captain THOMAS FORREST. TO WHICH 13 ADDED, A VOCABULARY OF THE MAGINDANO TONGUE, ION0TIS ERRARE LOCIS, ION0TA VIDERE ITT0RA GAUDEBAT, STUDIO MINUENTE LABOR EM. OVID, MET. IV. 294, t 111 LIS. // london: printed by g. scott; and sold by j. robson, new bond street; j. donaldson, strand-j g. robinson, paternoster-row; and j. bell, edinburgh. mdcclxxix, to the COURT op DIRECTORS, of the honorable EAST INDIA COMPANY. Gentlemen, T TAVING early devoted myfelf to your fervice, and been many years employed in it abroad, I cannot but feel myfelf peculiarly interefted in the profperity of this great Company, whofe approbation has been the ambition of my life. When you were pleafed, in the year 1770, to confer on me, by a fpecial commiffion, the command of your marine, on the Weft-coaft of Sumatra, I repaired thither, with the zeal fuch confidence mull infpire, and in the hope of opportunity to prove myfelf not quite unworthy of it. Sometime after my arrival at Fort Marlborough, your plan of a fettlement on the IQand of Balambangan, afforded me fuch opportunity : by pcrmiffion of the Governor and Council, I embarked with Mr. Herbert, who was appointed Chief on that Service. I had not been long at Balambangan, when that Gentleman communicated to me your orders for exploring Iflands to the eaftward, and propofed to mp the honor of executing the arduous talk. DEDICATION. To the profitable command of the Britannia, vacant by the death of Cape* Wilmot, I relinquifhed my unqueftionable right, in order to undertake the delicate as dangerous voyage j to which I could have no motive, but the ardor of juftifying Mr. Herbert's choice of a perfon mod likely to accomplifh the important defign of You, my ever honored employers. How I have by kind providence been enabled to do this, 1 here fubmit to the candor of the Honorable Company : nor could the reward, on which I rely, be claimed before the fpecification of the Service. In the whole, I have the honor to be, Gentlemen, London, Your moft obedient,. February »ft, J779. As mod devoted Servant, THOMAS FORREST. it- INTRODUCTION. 'J^HE firft difcovcry of New Guinea,* or Tanna (Land) Papua, was made fo long ago as the year 1511, by Antonio Ambreu, and Francis Serrano. «f* By the Portuguefe names given to certain harbours, bays, and iflands, that we find on the north coaft of New Guinea, between what is called Schouten's ifland and Solomon's iflands, it would feem that nation had in former days much frequented thofe parts* Nicholas Struyck, in a book publifhed at Amfterdam in 1753, gives a particular account of places and iflands on the north coafl of this country, with Portuguefe names; and fays, the Dutch endeavoured to conceal the knowledge of them. J New Guinea is alfo faid to have been difcovered by Alv ro de Saavedra in 1527, who fo called it, as being oppoflte on the globe to Guinea in Africa. Antonio Urdanetta faw New Guinea in 1528. § Ruy Lopez de Lobos, in 1543, fent from Tidore, towards New Spain, by the fouth fide of the line, a fliip commanded by Ortez de * Littora Novsfc Guineae, infulae Salomonis, infulse de Los Ladrones, omnium harum infularum et regionum, fi communiter fpetfentur, temperics humida eft, et moderate ca>Wda. De BrV» foh 34- * Galvano Baros.-—Dalrymple's Chrom Tab. of Difcovery. f Hiftoire des navigations aux terres Auftrales. § Hiftoire des voyages, par l'Abbe Prevot, tome 42 de 1'edit. in-douze. Rotha^ Rotha. That Captain failed to the coaft of Os Papuas, and ranged; it; but, not knowing that Saavedra had been there before him, he challenged the honour of difcovery. He called it New Guinea, * from the frizzled locks of the inhabitants: for the memory of Saavedra's voyage was almofl loft, -f Lopez Vaz relates, that fome time about the year 1567, Lopez de Caftro, governor of Peru, fent a fleet to difcover certain iflands in the-South Sea, Alvarez de Mendanio was general. At the diftance of Soo leagues, they difcovered between 9° and n° of S. latitude, fome large iflands; together, eighty leagues in compafs. The greateft ifland was, according to the jirflfinder9 called Guadalcanal. Here they landed,, took a town, and found fmall grains of gold. He farther fays, ** now at the time they thought of fettling thefe iflands, Captain Drake entering the South Seas, command was inftantly given, that the iflands-fhould not be fettled, left the Englifh or other nations, who paflfcd the ftraits of Magellan fox the South Sea, fhould find there any fuccour but from the Indians." J It is not impofTible, that purfuant to this, the Spaniards, in their pofterior charts, mifplaced Solomon's iflands, and call: them far eaft into the South Sea. But Mr. Dalrymple, to whofe refearches and furveys navigation is deeply indebted, by collating Dampier's map of New Guinea, with what fketches are found in Herrera, and in the • Nova Guinea a nautis fic di£ta, quod ejus littora locorumque facies Guinea African* admodum funt fimilia. Ab Andrea Corfili videtur did terra Piccona. LlNSCHOOTEN, p. 328* I Lord Oxford's continuation, vol. II. p. 402. J Hakluyt, vol. HI. p. 802, collection collection of voyages by de Bry, has evinced, that Dampier's New-Britain and Solomon's iflands are the fame. This has fo far been verified by Captain Carteret's difcovering a {trait pafs through the middle of New Britain. But, a map publifhed by Linfchooten in J^95» puts the matter beyond all doubt, as in that map the iflands at *he eaft extremity of New Guinea, are abfolutely named Solomons iflands.* It is to be regretted, that Dampier, who failed to New Britain in the Roebuck 1699, had not feen Linfchooten s map, publifhed but four years before. Such a guide might have induced him to put into harbours which he did not vifit, not knowing they exifted : for the lead additional light to a difcoverer may be productive of important confequences. As Lopez Vaz mentions gold found there, and the Spaniards unwilling the Portuguefe fhould have any fhare in it, that circumftance might farther induce the former (if they were indeed induced) to mifplace thofe iflands; that thefe might not appear in the portion of the globe which the Pope had afligned them ; the other half having been given to the Portuguefe by virtue of the famous meridian f of • Plate XIV. f Some fay, the firft meridian is drawn through Fayal j but the following accompanies de Bry's maps. Quicquid fpatii intra duos illos meridianos, fignatos terra; America?, eft navigationibus deteclum, aut detegetur in pofterum, Caftilienfibus aflignatum eft, De Bry. In the above map, one meridian goes through the banks of Newfoundland; the other through Java. partition partition his Holinefs drew on the occafion. Lopez Vaz afTerts, that the Spaniards carried back gold from Solomon's iflands to New Spain. Schouten* and le Maire, in 1616, after leaving an ifland they called St. John, and the Green iflands, came to the coaft of New Guinea, and fent their fhallop in more to found. She was attacked by feveral canoes, whence they threw ftones at the boat with flings. Next day, the 26th of June, the (hip was attacked, the enemy throwing ftones and darts. This they were obliged to refent. They killed ten of the aflailants, took three more, and four canoes. The canoes they deftroyed, and ranfomed two of the three prifoners for a hog and a bunch of plantains. Next day, they got another hog for fome nails and trinkets. On the 28th, a handfome large canoe came on board, with twenty-one perfons, who admired the fliip much, and brought betel nut and lime, -f* Thefe called themfelves Papuas, and did not offer to exchange the third prifoner; upon which they put him afhore. Continuing their courfe weftward, on the 7th of July, they palled an ifland called Vulcan's; no doubt, one of the burning illands in the map. On the 13th, they anchored within half a league of the main land, in 2° 54 S. latitude; and, finding the country abound in coco nuts, fent the boat, well provided for an attack, with orders to land and get fome. But fuch was the reception, from the arrows of the inhabitants, that fixteen being wounded, the invaders were forced, not-withftanding their mufkets, to retire. * Harris's Collection, Vol. I, p. 60. t Ufed by moft Eaft Indians with the areka nut and betel leaf. On On the 16th, they anchored between two iflands, landed, burnt ibme houfes, and brought off as many coco nuts as dealt three a man. In failing along the coaft, they faw a very plcafant ifland, named in the map, Horn ifland. The crew changing its name, called it Schou-ten's ifland, in compliment to their commander. As the fouth coaft of it is in Dampier's chart, left indefinite by a dotted line, I have fome reafon to think, the promontory of Dory may be the fame land, but not fufficient evidence to afcertain it. Abel Tafman, in 1642, after failing round New Holland, and fo difcovering it to be an ifland, returned by New Britain and New Guinea. He then pafled a burning mountain, in the latitude of 50 04' S. and afterwards got refrelhments from the ifland Jama, * which lies a little to the eaft of Moa. The natives brought him 6000 coco nuts, and ico bags of plantanes. The failors, in return, making knives of iron hoops, bartered thefe awkward inftruments for thofe refrefhments. Tafman had no quarrel with the inhabitants. They feemed, at Moa and Arimoa, to be afraid of him; for, one of his failors having been accidentally wounded, by an arrow from the bow of one of the natives, the man was delivered up. Captain Dampie-r, in the voyage of the Roebuck, already mentioned, being on the weft coaft of New Guinea, bought, near an ifland, called by the natives Sabuda, three or four nutmegs in the (hell, 'which did * Plate XVI. b not not feem to be long gathered. This agrees with what I found at Dory. The drefs of the people alfo near Pulo Sabuda, is exactly that worn at Dory ; the men wearing the rind of the palm-tree, and the women calicoes. Dampier touched no where on the coaft of New Guinea, but failed near feveral iflands clofe by New Britain, Wifhart's Ifland, Matthias, and Squally Ifland -3 alfo Slinger's Ifland, whence he was infulted with vollies of ftones. Had he anchored behind any of thefe iflands, which I apprehend, he might have done ; or, if he had not fired fmall and great fhot at the inhabitants of the large bay, where he did anchor,, to/care them, as he owns, he might have doubtlefs had intercourfe with them, and not been reduced to the hoftility of taking, by violence, fome of their hogs. Thus the whole difcovery, from impa-, tience or fear, was fruftiated. By his account of the appearance of the country, it is well inhabited and cultivated ; much better than the places I vifited farther weft* Captain William Funnel, 1705,* obfcrved feveral iflands in o° 42' N. latitude, near the coaft of New Guinea, inhabited ; but by a feemingly hoftile people : which prevented all intercourfe with them. He faw the coaft only at a diftance j and fays, it appeared to him mountainous, black, and rocky. Being afterwards in diftrefs for pro-viiions, and unacquainted in thofe feas, he was, by the mafk of friend-fhip, decoyed to Amboyna, where he fuffered very r^ugh ufage from the Dutch. 3 Harris's Collection. Commo-- Commodore Roggewein * coafted the north part of New Guinea, in 1722, and touched at the iflands Moa and Arimoa j whence came to him with provifions 200 canoes, with whom he dealt. He then pafled by what he clufters in the name of the Thoufand Iflands 5 where, he fays, the inhabitants had their heads covered with thick curled wool, and were called Papuas. Some of them had a bit of flick piercing the griflle of the nofe, as I remarked in a flave who was brought to Dory, to be fold. Roggewein's people landing on the ifland Moa, began to fell the coco nut trees; and the Indians, who lay in ambufh, defervedly let fly at them a fhower of arrows. Injuflice is always imprudence, and ingratitude is the worfl fpecies of injuflice. The natives had, jufl before this invafion of their property, brought the ftrangers all manner of refreshments. The latter, however, perceiving Moa thinly inhabited, had fallen upon this fcheme of feizing provifions ; thinking, to carry off, at once, flock fufEcient for the profecution of their voyage. To this conduct they were animated by the confederation, that the arrows of the natives did them little or no hurt; whereas, the difcharge of their fmall arms laid abundance of their entertainers on the ground. The next I can find, was Captain Carteret, who difcovered, as has been faid, New Britain to be divided into two parts at leaft; by a frrait, which he names St. George's Channel. He found in Englifh Cove, near Cape St. George, the nutmeg tree; but the fruit not ripe. He had only a diftant intercourfe with the inhabitants. Mr. Bougainville, who paffed that ftrait foon after, found them treacherous. * Harris's Collection. b 2 Captain I N T R O D U C T I O FR Captain Cook failed much about the fame time to the fouth of New Guinea, through the Endeavour ftrait; where, by his account, the land is low. He had no friendly intercourfe with the inhabitants. To this hour, I'do not find, that any European has had friendly intercourfe with New Britain, which is well inhabited > and lince Rog-gewein,. nobody we know of, has had any with New Guinea. Mon-fieur Sonnerat, in his Voyage a la Nouvelk Guine'e, lately published, went no farther eaft than the ifland Gibby, * near Patany Hook, on Gilolo. Gibby is often mentioned in the following fheets. What little connexion I had with the Papuas in New Guinea, will alfo there appear. The account of the cinnamon tree is taken'from the Acta Phyfico--Medica Academiae Caefareae, vol. L Since my own enquiries and conjectures about the people called Badjoos, mentioned chap, xviii. I have met with a curious account of them in Valentine. He fays, the Oran Badjoos or Wadjoos, are fifhermen; and that Mr. Padderburg at Manado on Celebes, had them under his charge in 1675. Mr. Padderburg imagines the Badjoos have been driven from Mi-cafiar, Java, Bantam, and Japara. They have about, 700 boats, in. which they live moftly on fifh. He adds, they have a king to whom they pay homage. They have a ftrange fqueal in their voice, with a * The Author docs not fay, whither he went; but this I learned from a perfon who* dererted him, and. whom 1 law at Sooloo, in 1773. very very wild appearance; and, were it not for the freedom which their boats afford them of going from place to place, they would not remain in any particular quarter, as they have a diflike to the more. Padderburg is of opinion, they muft have come either from China or Japan, where multitudes live in boats ; and their departure from that country muft have been occafioned, he thinks, by the inroads of the Tartars, who conquered China, and expelled the Badjoos, who may then have found their way amongft thefe iflands. Thofe about Manado, M^cafTar, Borneo, and the Philippines, are a medley of different nations; fuch as Chinefe with long plaited hair, Javans with bare throats, plucked beards and whifkers, and Macaffars- with black fhining teeth. Their religion is chiefly Chinefe or Mahometan. They have in different parts many vefTels \ and, what is remarkable, their women are capable of managing thofe vefTels even in heavy feas. Thefe people are very ufeful to the Dutch Eaft India Company, in carrying intelligence fpeedily from place to place, and giving, information of whatever happens. CONTENTS. BOOK I» CHAPTER I. Intention of the Voyage—Sailing Orders—Reafons for undertaking it in a fmall Vefjel—Defer iption of the Tartar Galley—and Lifl of the Crew, — — Page i CHAPTER II. Departure from Balambangan—Touched at the Iflands of Cagayan Sooloor and Pangatarran—Arrived at Sooloo, where we found a Molucca Prow loaded with Nutmeg*—Touched at the I/land Tonkyl—Left it unexpectedly ■—Saw the Ifland Sangir—Paffed Karaklta, Palla, and Siao—Paffed the Iflands Ternate and Tidore—Arrived at Malaleo Harbour, in the Straits of Latalatta—Sailed thence, and arrived at Bijfory Harbour— Tuan Hadjee viftts the Sultan of Batchian, — P#ge 12 CHAPTER III. Account of the IJland of Gilolo, from the Information of Ifimael Tuan Hadjee and others—Of the Sago Tree, and the Method of baking the Sago Bread) with a Comparifon between the Sago, and Bread Fruit Trees, — — ■— 21 CHAP- CHAPTER IV. Tuan Hadjee returns on Board with a Mejfenger from the Sultan of Bat-chian—Sailed from Bifory Harbour—Had an accidental Interview with the Saltan of Batchian, on the Ifland Bally—Sailed thence for Tomoguy —Put into Selang Harbour—Defcription of it—Sailed thence, and put into a Harbour on the Ifland Gag—Defcription of it—Sailed thence, and arrived at Tomoguy, where we narrowly efcaped Shipwreck—Hauled the Vefjel afiore to repair, — — 46 CHAPTER V. Sent a Boat to the Ifland Salwatty, to purchafe Sago Bread—Was vifited By the Synagees of the Country—Had my Houfe robbed—A Corocoro arrives from Batchian with Tuan Bobo on Board, and another Of* . ficer, who bring a Letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee—Far* ther Tranfaclions there—Prepare to depart—Account of the Inhabitants, —* T* 59 CHAPTER VI. The Batchian Officers refufe to proceed to New Guinea—Sail without them, but immediately put back—Converfation with Tuan Hadjee on the Subject who agrees to go to the Iflands off the Coafl of New Guinea, but not to the Main Land—Account of the Weft Coa/l of Waygiou, and of the Straits ofBatang Pally—Sailed for the Iflands of Towl—Faffed Ruib and Pulo Een—Arrived at Offak Harbour, on the North Coaft of Waygiou, — 70 CHAP- CHAPTER VII . Defcription of the North Coaft of Waygiou, and of the Harbour of Ojfak— Paffed Manouaran—Arrived at the Iflands of Towl—Account of them —Sailed for the I/lands of Fan—A Gale, in which we were fepar a ted from the two Corocoros—Obliged to bear away—Arrived at Dory Harbour on the Coaft of New Gninea—Some Account of the Papuas there —Directions to get into tbe Harbour—Conjectures about Schoutens IJland, 7 8 CHAPTER VIII. Arrival of the Banguey Corocoro—Fate of the Borneo—Arrival of a Co* rocoro from Tidore—Molucca Method offiftnng—Arrival of a Boat from an Ifland called Myfory—Harbour of Manfingham—Apprehenfions of the Inhabitants of Offy Village—Farther Account of the Papuas—Strict nefs. of the Dutch—Search for the Nutmeg Tree, to no Purpofe ftnd it at lafty on the Ifland of Manafwary—Account of the Haraforas—Give up to the People of Dory the Debt they have contracted—Account of Dory —Account of the Coaft of New Guinea, Eajl of Dory Harbour, and of the Iflands near the Coaft—Alfo of the Places on the Coaft, Weft of Dory Harbour, Of> CHAPTER IX. Departure from Dory Harbour—Put into Rawak Harbour for Provifions *—Defcription of it—Anchor at Manouaran IJland—Put into Piapis Harbour—Defcription of it—Leave it, and row to windward, intending to anchor at Pulo Een—Find it every where rocky and fteep-~-Bcar c away*. away, in order to go to the fonthward of Gilolo-—Pajs between the IJland of Gag and Gibby—Pqfs between the JJlands of Bo and Popo— Defcription of them, 11 $ CHAPTER X. Departure from Bo—Contrary Winds—Anchor at an IJland near Liliola, and not far from Pulo P'fang; but can get no f reft Water—Bear away for the Kanary Iflands—Find them uninhabited—Proceed to the IJland Myfol—Arrive in Ef-be Harbour—Tranfact ions there—Valentine s Account of the Birds of Paradife—Account of Cloves growing on Ceram and Ouby—Strict Watch of the Dutch near Amboyna—Arrival of a Corocoro from Tidore, belonging to the Sultan—We learn the Dutch have fent after us to Gibby—Account of the Rajah of Sabwatty—Defcription of the Ifland Ceram, and fome Places on the Weft Coaft of New Guinea,, from old Voyages, 127 CHAPTER XL Departure from Ff-be Harbour—St opt at the Kanary Iflands—Account of Round Harbour—Searched for Nutmegs—Leave the Kanary Iflands— Pajs between the Iflands Bo and Popo—Pafs Gibby—Tuan Buffora goes off' in the Night, with Tuan Hadjee'i Corocoro—Anchored near the the Iflands Syang and Eye, andgotfrejh Water—Departure thence—Saw the Ifland Gilolo—Saw the Ifland Morty—Saw the IJland of Kabruang, Salibabo, and Tulour—Arrive in Leron Hirbour on. Salibabo—Tran-factions therev i^i CHAP- CHAPTER XII. Departure from Leron—Paffed by feveral fmall Iflands—Saw the Iflands Eelk and Serangani—Paffed the Harbour of Batidakki on Magindano, Alfo the great Bay of Sugud Boy an—St opt at a fandy Ifland—Got Sight of the Ifland of Bunwoot—Paffed Timoko Hill, and entered the River of Magindano—Remarks on the Moonfoons in the Eaflern Parts of India, in low Latitudes, 162 BOOK H. CHAPTER I. Of the Ifland Magindano—Account of the Rivers Pelaiigy, Melampy, andTamantakka—Town of Selangan—Coto In tang, 173 CHAPTER. ft. Geographical Sketches of Places on the Banks of the Rivers Pelangy and Tamantakka, by Tvan Fabymolano—-Defcription of the Saltpetre Cave, Rajah of Boyan, 185 CHAPTER III. defcription of the Coafl of Magindano, Weft of tbe Bar of the Rive? Pelangy—Harbour of Kamaladan—P arther Defcription of the Coaft, 190 C H A P * CHAPTER IV. The Bijlory of Magindano, zo\ CHAPTER V. • Arrival at Coto Intang—Reception by Rajah Moodo—Vifit the Sultan —Mifunderftanding with Tuan Hadjee, whofe People I difcharge—Set about decking, and other wife repairing the Vejfel—Vifit the Ifland Ebus—~ Write to the Sultan of Sooloo—Invited to fup with Rajah Moodi— Devotion of the Crew of a Mangaio Prow—Sultan of Sooloo s An/wer—■ Tuan Hadjee quits Mindano abrubtly—Method of making Salt—Vijit the IJland Bun%voot, 207 CHAPTER VI. Account of Subudan Watamama—His Sicknefs and Death—Arrival of a Spanifli Envoy from Semboangan—Particular Account of a Ma;gala Prow—Datoo Utuparts with his Wife Fatima—Rajah Mood) vifits the Sultan—Dfcription of his Palace—Interview with Datoo Topang, 223 CHAPTER VIL Celebration of a Fejlival at the Sultans lalace—Entertainment—Potely Pyak vifits the Sultana—Certain Salutations—Dances—The Sultana returns the Vifit—The Spanijh Envoy affrmts luijah Mo:do, who. forgives him. 237 C H A P- CHAPTER VIII. The IJland Bunwooot is granted to the Englijlj—Tranfactions there and Defcription of it—Sail for Tubuan—Mr. Baxter Jets out to vifit the Gold Mine at Marra ; but immediately retnrns. 2^9 CHAPTER IX. Defcription of the Coafl of Magindano South of the Bar of the Pelangy to Tubuan River—Account of Mr. Baxter s Journey to Marra—Leno Harbour—Farther Defcripeion of the Coafl round Cape St. Augtiftine —Haraforas, 262 CHAPTER X. Of the Great Lano or hake—Account of the Ulano Sultans and Rajahs who live on its Banks-—Certain Laws of the Mindanoers—Form of Government—Taxes laid on the Haraforas—Their Drefs, 272 CHAPTER XL Sent the Galley to Bunwoot to be repaired—Gale at N. IV,—Account of Noes Portion, who is married to Datoo XJtu—Particular Account of the Marriage of one of Rajah Moodds Daughters, 283 C H AFTER XII. Ajk Leave to depart from Magindano—Depart privately—Character of Rajah Moodo—His Generofity—Curious about Rcdigion—Variety of Snakes—Farthtr Account of the Mindanoers—Their Moderation in eat-mg and drinking—General Character of the Mindanoers and Ulanos— Journal x*ii CONTENTS. Journal of a Mangaio Prow—Their Song—Valentine's Accost of Magindano, 289 CHAPTER XII. Account of the Iflands Sangir—Tulour, or Tanna-Labu—Salibabo—Ka-bruang—Nanufan—Karakita—Palla—Tagulanda—Banka, and Tellu-fyang, from the Information of Datoo Wiodine, 310 CHAPTER XW. Of the I/land Sooloo—Chims of the Spaniards to any Sovereignty over thai IJland refuted—Climate—Fruits—Government—Articles from China carried thither, and Returns—Diffipation of the Datoos—Pearl Fifoing, Harbours—Cruelty to Slaves—Fray between the Sooloos and the Englijh Buggejes—General Character of the Sooloos^Many Injlances of their Treachery, 320 CHAPTER XV. An Account of the Cinnamon Tree in Ceylon, and its feveral Sorts, communicated by the chief Infpector of the Cinnamon Trade, and Manufacturer in that I/land, to Albertus Seba, a noted Druggift in AmHer-daw. Tranjlated by the late Dr. ScheuchO; F. R. S. 338 CHAPTER XV[. Sail for Kamaladan Harbour—See fome Sooloo Prows—Meet with Tuan Hadjee in the Banguey Corocoro—Pafs the IJland Lutangan—Harbour of Boobooan—Obliged to anchor on the Coaft of Sooloj—Pafs within Li-heran IJland, on the Coaft of Borneo—Directions for that Purpofe—Pafs Balambangan Balambangan—-Arrive in Pelampan Harbour, behind Pulo Gaya— Meet fome Englifi Vejfeh—Proceed to Abia, in queflof the Mindano Officers, by whom I write to Rajah Moodo—Gale at N. E.—Haul the Vejfel ajhore—Depart thence, and arrive at the Englifh Factory at Borneo, CHAPTER XVII. Of the North Part of Borneo—Its Climate—Rivers—Harbours—Pro-duel—People called Idaan—Their Superflition—Farther Account of Places—Advantage of trading from Indoflan hither—Account of the Badjoos and People of Tedong* 367 CHAPTER XVIir. Directions for failing down the N 7V. Coafl of Borneo—from Pirates Point to the River—Defcription of the Town—Return thence to Fort Marlborough * g*g£ ERROR 8 ERRORS OF THE PRESS. Page 6 Line 13 for can have no pretentions, read can have no exclufive pretenfions. 19 -13- nor I did, r. nor did I. 35 - 12—— Swallow, r. Swallo. 55 - 13- trad, r. track. 65, -20 — a Molucca man, r. the Molucca man. 106 -13- 30 dollars, a pecul on Java, r. 30 dollars a pecul (133 lb.) on Java* 177 -26- portafque, r. portufque. . 209 -22- - afking him, r. aflcing me. 290 -X6- the where dwelt Sultan, r. where dwelt the Sultan, 306 — — 10- ■ a grand ftair, r, grand flairs. 328 —- 10- ■ reigns of government, r. reins of government. 349 -1--- recovered his, r. recovered of his, 367 --,- Chap. XVIII. r. Chap. XVII. 376 ---- Chap. XIX. r, XVIIL Dnlnmlvut^TUi ■S,t/m.i/n,f,T.i iLmihihffhWtui \ -----. ---*■>.- ***** l? 'ib>Ct'i> ~—. y^7 of Ji () K N E O T/n'St>p/oo. l/r/u/wAuft' t\> //•('//> /'///'///<>//<'//<>. E q ii a i /Av;> 0 >' '!Vm-kul i|u-Tart»r('ai,vn»voi7>i(ooy<'iy in 1774t--7<3 K -J6 . . v//, ■ /■/.>//?, /' tht-ffor/u 'i"-> <'/' lat? 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L t'/i Atih/i/ii/'tfto..______ A>// nearZ)*\ /'<>/A>fA' c// MtiiffHtft/f/o_____ Tetyan ,>//J);.'_______......, - 7**$ /u- -,. f 8 /no' 40 j /ay „ 04 - » /O f'ZJ., 44 - fj /'28 S. „ u/ . 2 ~ / a /ay „ _ / - 45 tad„ -j(> "Eamafadan m Df 7„;i4 1 t-J2 „ sS 7-£t /*/„ _ JSLANJ) of MAGINDANO troof &p ^/Wt/'i'/t If /'//l,r//i/;iri (i x^ 7] Ht't/ltH-A'tl/'/t' f„Uht<'f/ .1 ////// [ /Sut/iw" .,1*. l\ Ifjiiwnjiiia, y$tq{t',<,* ///<>// /////////' ^7vv////, - ' J (/jhortuis(Aw rest. r dim* >''>!■/ fJ/\'/r2 ('Vi'ti'/r Bern* T,i/t/ui & t'~ - c2 A,//,'////,//////,/ .>}/////wr ,1"''"' /..sv^^: J',t/t'k / <£3 (U'/tllllC/l 'i/4///r/A'M / * 3 w_ ---— ('.(hintl/tyi<\' f.rn,)/'/// ward, weighed again. On Thurfday the roth, at funrife, we had calms and light breezes from the north-weft. We then had paffed the iflands called the Salenfingers, but TO NEW GUINEA. i3 but juft faw them. At feven we rowed with fourteen oars, and con- 1774- November, tinued fo mod part of the day, flacking at times when it was very hot. '-i—j In the night we had a fquall from the north-eaft, with thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was dark and gloomy; but this, being common in low latitudes, little affects thofe who are accuftomed to it, asitfeldom does harm : and, had our veflel been tight overhead, we might have paffed the night tolerably; for during thefe tornado's, it is the cuftom of Malays to lie to at fea, as they are generally accompanied with uncertain gufls of wind. This we did for feveral hours, dropping a wooden anchor from the weather-bow, which kept the vcffel's head to the fea, and made her He eafy. But the rain beat through the Palm leaves with which the veflel was covered, fo violently, that we Europeans found it very uncomfortable : the crew did not much mind it. Friday the nth, at funrifc, we faw the Ifland of Cagayan Sooloo, bearing eaft, diftant about eight leagues. It is of middling height, and covered with trees ; but not quite fo much as Malay Iflands generally are; fome fyots upon it appearing from fea clear of wood, and cultivated. A frefli wind fpringing up from the foutb-weft, and increafing, we fixed the lateen mizcn for a forefail. At three P. M. I difcovered in the road, or harbour, a prow, with many people on board, and canoes going backwards and forwards to her from the fhore. At four, I anchored pretty near this ve/Tel, and found her to be a Mangaio prow, or armed veflel that goes a cruifmg, generally amongft the Philippine iflands, called Bifaya. She was not above four tons bunhen, looked very fmart, having a gallery fore and aft »774- aft for the rowers to fit on, as we had; having alfo the tripod mall and —-> lyre tanjong, and mounting four brafs fwivel guns, called Rantakers, carrying each a four ounce ball. She belonged to the Rajah of the ifland ; and I apprehend from the hurry they were in, when we firft appeared, that they were a little afraid. When we were at anchor, the weftermoft part of the ifland bore W. by S. two miles diftant, and the eaftermoft part of a reef, that lay off the faid weft part of the ifland, bore S. by W. one mile diftant. This formed a good road, if not a harbour ; being (hut in from the eaftern fwell, by a reef of rocks: two fmall iflands bearing at the fame time, E. by S. three leagues diftant, called the Mambalu iflands, in Mr. Dalrymple's maps. Early in the morning of the 12th, I went on fhore, and waited on the Rajah, who fpoke good Malays. I enquired the deftination of his privateer j he anfwered, Dio Pigy Mangaio, de Nigri Bifaya: ** She is going a cruize amongft " the Philippines." I carried with me a tea kettle, fome tea and fugar candy—and he drank tea with me, furnifhing tea pot and cups. I told him, tea was (Englijh punio dry) Engliih Beetle, alluding to the beetle leaf, which all Eaft Indians chew. He laughed, and faid it was very good Ciry. The Rajah who was very civil and facetious—afked after Tuan Hadjee, who he had heard was on board. I told him, he would pay his refpe&s to him that afternoon. I was accompanied by Tuan Imum, one of my helmfmen, a kind of a MmTelman prieft, and a great favourite with Tuan Hadjee, who deferred his vifit, as we did not choofe to TO NEW GUINEA. 15 to be both out of the veflel together, for my two Europeans did not ^JJ^r. as yet know a word of Malays. *~ '"*"J The Rajah ordered a very good fowl to be drefTed in a curry, of which Tuan Imum and I partook, after walking about and bathing in a fine pool of frefh water. I prefented him with a pocket compafs, two pieces of courfe chintz, and a little tea and fagar candy, which Malays are generally fond of 5 and of which I had laid in a pretty good ftock at Balambangan. In return, he gave me a goat, fome fowls, fruits, 6cc. and, immediately after dinner, I returned on board. About two in the afternoon, Tuan Hadjee, who was very well pleafed to hear of the civil treatment I had received from the Rajah, went on more. He returned at fix, with fowls, fruits, ckc. which the Rajah had given him, in return for fome prefents he had made. During our fhort ftay here, I repaired, and made at lean: water tight, the leaky roof of the veffel. In the cool of the evening, I founded the harbour, and found the mod water in it fix fathom, the leafl three, with three fathom on the bar at half flood. The tide rifes fix feet on the fprings, and a rifing and fetting moon makes high water. The bar is coral rocks, about thirty^ yards in width, and ten yards acrofs, or over : within and without the bar is clean fand, free from rocks; and it will admit with fafety, vefTels drawing fifteen feet water* Cagayan 177+- Cagayan Sooloo is a pleafant looking ifland; the foil is rich, and the November. , v—~,_i vegetation is fj luxuriant, that I found every where the grafs called (Lallang) Couch Grafs, grown to the height, even of fix feet; the foil being black mold. The Rajah told me there was another harbour on the eaft coaft of the ifland; which is about twenty miles round, lies in the latitude of y° N. and longitude n6° 45", and its diftancc from Balambangan is ioo miles E. by S. The ifland is dependent on Sooloo, the Rajah being a Datoo* there, and is much frequented by Mangaio Prows in general. Even the fmall Mangaio Prows, of the Oran Tedong (men of Tedong) a barbarous piratical people, who live up certain rivers, on the north-eaft part of Borneo, are admitted here, as the Rajah is, I fuppofe, too weak to dare to refufe them. Thefe Oran Tedong, are not Mahometans: this circumftance, and their country being under the dominion of Sooloo, may be the reafon why the Sooloos will not permit them to come into any of their ports on that ifland, as they difcountenance their piracies. Something more of the Oran Tedong will be faid hereafter. On Sunday the 13th, we rowed out of Cagayan harbour, early in the morning, and found a flrong current fet to the fouthward. At fun fet, Cagayan bore north, five leagues diftant, we having been retarded by calms. A frefti breeze fpringing up foon after from the N. N. W. fteered E. by N. fome iflands that lie to the northward of Cagayan being in fight j and the Mambalu iflands to the fouthward * Datoo, fignifies baron—nobleman. bearing to NEW GUINEA, 17 bearing S. S. W. feven leagues. Our latitude, obferved at noon, was '774- t, a ' November. 6 40' N. On the 14th, at funrife, we had a fine breeze from the northward: at ten it fhifted to the weftward, and blew frefh; hoifted our mizea for a forefail, and fet a lug main fail. At the fame time, our canoe broke loofe; and, as it blew very frefh, we could not recover her. At noon, it being more moderate, we fet our proper fails. At 4 P. M. there being little wind, we rowed with all our oars, being eighteen in number; and, at three in the morning, we had fome fevere fqualls, followed by heavy rain. Our courfe to day was E. by N. It being cloudy, we had no obfervation. On the 15th, at three P. M. we faw the ifland of Pangatarram* At funfet, we were within three leagues of it, and kept rowing and failing all night; we (truck all our fails in a fquall, within a cable's length of the more, but had no foundings. At midnight anchored, in two fathoms water, fandy ground, abreaft of an old ruined fort * but faw no people. On Wcdnefday the 16th, finding nobody here, I weighed and rowed more to the northward. I then faw fome people belonging to the ifland, and fome Sooloo people. From thofe I learnt, that there • Pangatarran, a long flat ifland, has no frefh water ; nor is any good anchoring near, except in fome few places. It abounds in Coco nuts, and a fruit called Guava. Tappool, Seaflee and Pangatarran, are the only iflands of the Sooloo Archipelago to which the Spaniards have preferved a title, by confent of the Sooloos* Tappooi and Seailee are of middling height, well cultivated and inhabited. D were November were two Molucca Prows at Sooloo, loaded with nutmegs and mace; ' and, at Tuan Hadjee's fuggeftion, I refolved to go thither, as it was not out of our way, to endeavour to perfuade the Noquedahs (commanders) to carry their nutmegs to Balambangan. I therefore immediately got under way, rowed and failed towards Sooloo. At midnight could fee lights afhore, in the town of Bowang, which is the chief town of Sooloo. As Pangatarran abounds in Coco nuts, I laid in a good flock. On Thurfday the 17th, I anchored in Sooloo road, juft before fun rife. I found riding here the Antelope, Captain Smith, a fliip belonging to the Honourable Company, and only one Molucca Prow, be* fide many fmall prows and vefTels belonging to the Sooloos. As J anchored clofe to the Molucca prow, the Noquedah came on board, and informed me, that the other prow, after difpofing of her cargoe, had failed; he likewife told us, that he had fold, or at lea ft bargained for his nutmegs with the Sultan : therefore he declined going to Ba-lanibangan. Pie was very glad to fee Tuan Hadjee. As I was anxious to fee this eaftern veflel, I went on board ; I found her about thirty tons burthen, high built, and fitted with the tripod maft, and lyre tanjong. I bought from one of the crew, about twenty pounds of very good mace for a red handkerchief: I alfo bought fome fago cakes. The people belonging to this prow were exceeding civil, and lent me their canoe (fampan) to fetch water. Captain Smith perceiving I was without a boat, very politely fent his to attend me ; in which} after vifiting him, Tuan Hadjee and I went on more, and paid our refpecls to Mr. Corbet, the Englifh refi- dent, TO NEW GUINEA, dent, who i *ne with great civility, and entertained mc at his houfe. 1 ■ -:x went and paid ray refpedts to the Sultan, whole name was Ifrael : i wai Ton to the old bultan Amiralmoomine, and had his education at Ma ..ilia, where his father and he had long been prifoners, and were reeved lait war from their captivity, by the arras of the r-nglifh, A inn imoomine being old, had given up the reins of government to hi foh Ifrael. After dining with Mr. Corbet, in company with captain Smith and his officers, I went and paid my refpects to Datoo Alamoodine, who was intended to fucceed Sultan ifrael, as he had no children. I alfo vifited the Datoos Almilbahar the admiral, and Almilbadar the general. I found the Sultan, and all thefe gentlemen, concluded I was going to Magindano nor I did undeceive them. In the cool of the evening, I had the pleafure of feeing the Sultan's niecePotely (princefs) Diamelen, and the general's daughter Fatima, ride on horfeback, accompanied by feveral Datoos and others. Their manner is, to ride backwards and forwards, the length of a long broad ftreet, upon fandy ground, forcing their horfes on a quick trot, and checking them when they attempt to gallop. The horfes accuflomed to this, trot very fail. Thefe two ladies were remarkably handfome, and were reckoned fair ; which they certainly were by comparifon. They wore waiilcoats of fine muflin, clofe fitted to their bodies; their necks to the upper parts of the breaft being bare. From the waift. downwards, they wore a loofe robe, girt with an embroidered zone or belt about the * The Englifli ufed to call it Mindano, and i (hall often call it fo. D 2 middle, *7?4- middle, with a large clafp of gold, and a precious ftone. This loofc robe November, ° 1 ° «*——» like a petticoat, came over their drawers, and reached to the middle of the leg 3 the drawers of fine muflin, reaching to the ancle. They rode acrofs with very fhort flirrups, and wore their hair clubbed, atop, Chinefe fafliion. Before the exercife was over> Diamelen's hair fell loofe, and hung, in black mining ringlets, mod gracefully down her back, as far as the faddle. They often put fweet oils on their hair* which gives it a glofs. The ladies fat their horfes remarkably well; and this is an exercife women of fafhion indulge all over the ifland. Their faddles have in the middle a vacancy, which muft. make it eafy for the horfe, like thofe recommended for troopers, by marflial Saxe in his Reveries. Here I got excellent refrefhment: Oranges full as good as thofe in China, and all kinds of the beft tropical fruits—very good beef, fowls, 6cc, On Friday the 18th, we had fqually weather,, the winds at S. W. At noon we parted from our grapnel, and let go another, by which we held fart. Captain Smith aftifted me in the evening very readily with his boat and people, to fweep for the loft grapnel, to no purpofe, the ground where it happened to be dropt being rocky. I had from Mr. Corbet a flout bamboo foe a foremaft, alfo two Englifh enfigns. I fhould have ftayed here longer, at leaft until I had got a canoe; but, the road being expofed to the north weft wind and fwell, tho' fheltered from all other winds, and this being the time of t^c ihifting of the monfoon, I thought proper to be gone. On TO NEW GUINEA- 2J On Saturday the 19th, I failed from Sooloo road, with the wihcl *774' XT \\r Li ■ r November,, at i\. w. hi owing frefh, and fteered N. E. At noon we faw the two *— iflands of Duoblod ; the northermoft is the fmaller. At four in the morning we faw the ifland of Bafilan. It is an ifland belonging to-Sooloo, and about the fame fize; the weft end of it bore E. by N. diftant fix leagues. Here I found the ebb* tide fet very ftrong to the eaft ward, much ftronger than the flood tide fets to the weftward : this is the cafe during the S. W. monfoon, and the current had not yet changed,. Sunday the 20th. Next to Duoblod, in an eaft direction, is at* ifland with a large hummoc or hilloc upon it; it is called Tanta-ran in Mr. Dairympie's map. As the weather threatened, I attempted, but in vain, to get to it, the current and tide fetting ftrong to the eaft ward, between it and two very fmall iflands called Dippool, which lie fouth of it, and are fhaped like fugar loaves ; the one much larger than the other. I therefore bore away for a low ifland, lying farther eaft. At eight A. M. I reached it, and found it furrounded with coral rocks, yet 1 came to amongft them, with a wooden anchor, in three fathom water, the weather looking very unfettled, and the wind blowing frefh at N. N. W. On Monday the 21ft, about noon, I fpoke with a fmall fiming boaf>, or prow, with only one Sooloo man in her ; who told us, that further on, was a harbour, into which we might go; and informed me that the ifland was called Tonkyl. I accordingly weighed, but obf rving that it was a dry harbour, I did not chufe to go into it. However, I anchored in three fathom water, on a fmall fpot of fand, '774* juft without the harbour. Here I bought fome very good fifh, ex. November. J 0 ^—"v—' ceeding cheap, of fome of the natives who were out in thai* boats. Notwithstanding 1 lay under the lee of the ifland, clofe to the fhore, yet I gave a reward to fome of the natives for bringing fire wood on board, not chufing to truft my people on fhore to cut it, as I perceived many armed men, of whom I was fufpicious; and who calling out, endeavoured to perfuade me, but to no purpofe, to go into the harbour. The weather flill having a very unfettled afpecl, I was unwilling to put to fea, to continue our voyage, but thought of going over to the ifland Bafilan, which was then in fight, and where 1 was told by Tuan Hadjee's people, there was choice of good harbours ;—at the fame time, the fifherman, of whom I had bought the fifh, offered to come early next morning, and conduct me to a very good harbour on that ifland : I accordingly engaged him. About eleven at night the wind came from the eaflward, along fhore, and blew frefh. We got up our grapnel, but the veffel carting wrong, touched upon the rocks. As me forged on without any fail, I inftantly took out the piece of wood which fecured the fore bamboo of the tripod mart, near the item, and let the mail: fall. Luckily it fell aflant againft the mizen maft, which broke its fall, and faved it. We then, with poles, fet the veffel's head round, got up the maft, and made fail to the S. E. with the wind at E. N. E. I was apprehenfive that had I been eaft away upon this ifland, the Sooloos might at leaft have plundered us. In the morning the weather was more moderate. We found one of the flocks of the grapnel ftraightened a little, probably by having caught caught hold of a rock. At noon we were in latitude 50 30' N. having run forty-eight miles on a S. E. by E. courfe fince morning* The fea was now fmoother, and ran in a more even manner than it did, when we left the land ; it being then very irregular, and the veffel making water. On Tuefday the 22d, we had moderate weather, and ran eighty-two miles on an E. S. E. courfe: and at noon, we were in the latitude of 50 3' N. To day Tuan Hadjee told me, that it was highly imprudent to go to the coafl of New Guinea, whither we were bound, being only one veffel; and that we ran the rifk of being cut off by the Papuas. He faid nothing of this at Balambangan. We had there propofed to go to the northward of Morty (which ifland lies near the north part oi the ifland Gilolo or Halamahera, the largefl of the Moluccas) iiv the veffel we had; and now for the firfl time he flarted objections-I confidered it imprudent to do any thing abfolutely oppofite to-his opinion or advice, therefore agreed to go between the ifland Gilolo and Celebes, in order to purchafe, and fit up a Corocoro*,. # a corocoro is a veflel generally fitted with out-riggers, with a high arched ftem and ftem, like the point of a half moon. They are ufed by the inhabitants of the Molucca iflands chiefly, and the Dutch have fleets of them at Amboyna, which they employ as guarda coftas: They have them from a very fmall fize, to above ten tons burden ; and oiv thecrofs pieces which fupport the out-riggers, there are often put fore and aft planks, on which the people fit and paddle, beftde thofe who fit in the veflel on each gunnel. In fmooth water they can be paddled very faft, as many hands may be employed in different ranks or rows. They are fleered with two commoodies, (broad paddles) and not with a rudder. When they are high out of the water, they ufe oars ; but, on the out-riggers, they, always ufe paddles. Frequent mention is made of corocoros in the hiftory of Amboyna. at 23 1774. November. at lb me convenient place thereabouts, that we might be two veflel s in company. This pleafed him much. I found he had a hr *tig inclination to vifit Batchian, the Sultan of which was his near relation. On Wednefday the 23d, we had moderate weather, and wefterly winds• fleered S. E. by E. feventy miles. At noon we were in the latitude of 4° 34', and one hundred and fifty miles eafl of the meridian of Tonkyl. This day we had many ripplings of currents, which I imputed to the monfoon's changing. On T/jurfday the 24th, we had fair weather; fleered S. E. eighty miles : at noon our latitude was 30 55' N. On Friday the 25th, we had weflerly winds and fqually weather. Ran under a foul weather mainfail, and fleered as befl fuited the vef-fel's eafe, between the fouth and eafl, as fhe laboured much, and flapped water. Kept baling, as we had no pump, every half hour. Many of the rattan lafhings were alfo found broke."* In the morning we faw the ifland of Sangir, appearing large and high ; the body of it, bearing about north-eafl, was covered with clouds. We fleered to the northward of a clufler of five iflands, which lie to the fouthward of Sangir; the two principal are called Karakita and Palla, as I was informed by Abdaraman, one of Tuan Hadjee's people, who had been there. Each of thefe two iflands may be about five or fix miles round. They are about three miles afunder, * The ends of the beams went through, or pierced the veflel's fides j the beams were tied to handles on the planks, which were nailed to the timbers. bearing to new guinea. 25 bearing n. n. e. and S. S. W. of one another j Karakita being to the i7H* 0 November. northward, and are both cultivated ; Palla, rather the largefl, has w-v—J a table land upon it. In paffing Karakita, we faw a fmall canoe about two miles from us, which fhunned us, paddling away very fail. On the north-weft: fide of Karakita there is a bay, perhaps a harbour. Abdaraman could not particularly inform me about it. Oppofite to the mouth of the bay there appears a beautiful row of coco nut trees on the ridge of a hill, as in the view. Abdaraman told me there was a harbour at Pulo Siao j which ifland we faw bearing fouth from Karakita about ten leagues, and was partly wrapped in clouds, it being very high. To the weftward of Karakita, and north-weft of Palla, are three iflands, one of them not above one mile round, which appeared like a gunner's coin or wedge. The other two are fomething larger. To the fouthward of Sangir, and near it, are alfo three fmall iflands. A fmall rocky ifland, with a few coco nut trees upon it, and many rocks, like fugar loaves, around it, bore e. s. e. from Karakita four miles, which, from its fhape, we called the Rabbit. We paffed to the weftward of it within half a mile, the current fetting to the fouthward. Karakita lies in the latitude of 30 16' n. and longitude 122* 2o' e. In my run from Tonkyl to Karakita, it was impoffible for me to be certain of my courfe and diftances, as I fleered fo many different courfes to keep the veffel eafy, I expected to make Sangir fooner than I did. The currents at the beginning of the north-eaft: monfoon are uncertain, and fometimes very ilrong here, as they alfo are in the China feas and Bay of Bengal at this feafon of the year. i had the E greatefl J774' greateft, reafon to think I was fet to the weftward; and have, from my November. o u—i—i remarks when I returned, chiefly, placed the nland of Sangir 2 40' E. of the meridian of Tonkyl; although, by my run, I made it to be much more. On Saturday the 26th, we had moderate weather, with calms towards midnight. We then rowed a good deal, cheering up the rowers with a dim of tea, which rcfrefhed them, and they were fond of it, having no idea of fpirituous liquors ; neither did any of them fmoak opium, which Malays often do, thereby rendering themfelves unfit for duty. In the morning the high land of Siao bore N. W. half N. and at noon we were in the latitude of 2° 16' N. To day, expect to fee Myo and Tyfory, two fmall iflands near Ternate, as we fometimes rowed three knots an hour. Early in the morning of Sunday the 27th, by the light of the moon we faw the ifland Myo, which is of middling height. Pre-fently after we faw the ifland Tyfory, juft open with its fouth end, bearing weft 5 Ternate Hill bearing at the fame time fouth-eaft, diftant about ten leagues. Myo lies in latitude i° 23' N. and longitude 1220 50' E. Tyfory is a flat ifland, not fo large as Myo, and lies about w. by S. from it, five or fix miles diftant. * There is faid to be a good road on the coaft of Myo, and that many wild goats are upon it. It was formerly inhabited, when the Spaniards had the Mo- * Myo and Tyfory, in former days, furnifhed four hundred men as militia to the Sultan of Ternate. At Myo there is a harbour ; and it produces cloves, HISTOIRE GENERALLE DE L'AsiE PAR d'AVITY. p. 904. luccas; luccas; but the Dutch will not now permit any body to live there, Npoft, to get into favour with his chief, fends an account of his having difcovered on a certain fpot, a parcel of fpice trees; with news, perhaps, at the fame time, that he has deftroyed them all—this gets him into favour. Poflibly the chief's domefKcs might inform him of many more fuch fpots at hand; but they are too wife to fay much on fo delicate a fubje Jifhcyuitzti fore J?.&S-2^' - df*Am/-, The Island* called ti/ar/'/rlta.* t>ore as alorr . '/'//<>■'Ferrett oLeiitv ;„ t J>M,hed try ®f*^**ij?<>rrA*t a., the Act .//,;■.•/<>, Tan? .n>*/77Q. Tkomao I'lwres Sculn 16^173860473 9999 63 ^+%$/^Z N ivemher. The ifland Morty belongs alfo to the Sultan of Ternate; it is very 1774 poorly inhabited, and is faid to have many groves of the libby or fago tree, amongft its woods. Parties go often thither from Gilolo, for no other purpofe, than to cut them down for the flour or pith. Morty looks very pleafant from the fea, gently rifing from the beach. The Dutch ftri&ly guard the ftraits between Morty and Gilolo, with Panchallangs (vefTels of one malt, and the lyre tanjong) and with Co-rocoros ; but, the guarda coftas of Gilolo, are chiefly panchallangs and floops. Twelve panchallangs are kept at Ternate. The guarda coflas of Amboyna and Ceram, are chiefly Corocoros, and at Banda, floops. Prows often go a trading from Sooloo to Ternate j they carry many Chinefe articles, and bring back rice, fwallow or fea flug, fhark fins, tortoife-fhell, a great many loories, and fome fmall pearls; but no fpices, except perhaps a very few by flealth. Buggefs prows (called paduakans, fitted with the tripod mart) go alfo to Gilolo j but they muft have a Dutch pafs: and I have been told, that notwithstanding the prote^ftion of this pafs, fometimes a rapacious Dutch cruifer meets them, trumps up a ftory again ft them, and makes prize of them. If the Sultan of Ternate or Tidore fits out a prow of any fize, and it is fufpected fhe is going to fome diftance; the Dutch will expect to know the place of her deftination : and, if the Sultan fays it is to the Buggefs country, or to any diftant place, for cloth or fuch merchan-dife, the reply will be, that the Company's warehoufes contain every thing of that kind he can want, and all is at his fervice. If he flill perfifls, and fays, I am an independant prince, and will fend my veifel whither I pleafe; the governor at lafl fends him per- F 2 haps, haps, a valuable prefent of various calicoes, fuch as he knows will- be acceptable to his women, who, may at the very fame time, be fecretly bribed to divert the Sultan from his purpofe : fo cautious are they of bringing matters to extremity, and they generally fucceed, or at the word, have leave to fend an officer in the veffel. The Sultans of Ternate and Tidore* have often had bloody wars with each other j and the Dutch have known how to profit by them. On the ifland of Ternate, are three Miffigys- (mofques) ferved by two Caliphas and four Imums, and many other inferior clergy, called Katibes, Modams and Mifimis. There is one church for the Dutch, but none for the Portuguefe, of whom many remain on the ifland, but they are grown as black as the natives. The country is divided into five nrgris, (a certain diftridt) over which are five Synagees, as they pronounce, -f- a kind of chief. There is alfo a Captain Laut, who commands the Sultan's prows and a Gogo, an officer who fuperintends the police : amongft ether parts of his duty, it is his bufinefs to fee that the inhabitants keep the fences of their gardens in repair, againft the wild hogs and deer; and that houfes be provided with pots of fand to extinguifh fire. This regulation, well intended, is badly executed amongft the natives; while the Dutch economy within, and near their fort, is admirably exerted in this, and in every other part of India. * The prefent Sultan of Ternate is named Mahuujine Jillil Wrodine—The Sultan of Tidore is Iu.mel Loodine—and the Sultan of Batchian is Mahrrood Sahowdinc. f Sangiac, poffibly from Senchaque, which fi^nifies, in the Turkifh language, commander. Bartholomew Akgensoi.a, Conquest of the Molluccas, p. 15. The T O N E W G U I N< E A. The Dutch have a civil governor and council, befides a fubandar and fifcal, whofe power is often fcverely felt, not only by natives, but alfo by Europeans, v/ho are prohibited trade with all foreign parts, but Batavia, No Chinefe junk or veflel is allowed to come to Ternate from China; but Chinefe junks trade from China to Macaffar, which may be confidered as-the weft'frontier to the Moluccas : in fhort, the Dutch contrive to make Ternate as dependent as poflible on Batavia, for what they want; and although, as I have faid, the Sooloos fend vefTels to Ternate, no Dutch burgher, or Chinefe inhabitant, can fend a veflel-to Sooloo. Neither can any Dutch burgher trade to the coafl: of New Guinea for MilToy bark, the powder of which is much ufed by the Javans for rubbing their bodies, as the Gentoos on Coromandel ufe fandal wood — the diicreet Chinefe only having accefs to New Guinea. The ifland of Tidore is but two or three leagues from Ternate** • being very populous, it has no fewer than twenty-five mofques. The capital mofqueis at the Sultan's, and is fcrved by one Caliph, and Four' Iinurns. The Sultan poflefTes great part of Gilolo, to the fouth and eaft ; the chief towns there are called Maba,* and Weda, and Patany.-f* On Patany hook or point, is a very throng and capacious natural fort or faftnefs, acceflible only by means of ladders, up the face of a perpendicular rock. The top is flat ground, containing many houfes, * The French are faid to have got cloves from Maba. -j- The people of Patanv fupplied with clove plants, the French, who went no further eafl than the ifland of Gibby. Voyage a la nouvelJe Guinee. gardens* garden?, &c. the whole being about three miles in circumference. The Sultan of Tidore, befides his proportion of Gilolo, claims the iflands of Waygiou, Myfol, and Batanta. Salwatty is governed by its own Rajah, who at prefent is at variance with the Dutch : his pre-deceiTor was banifhed to the Cape of Good Hope, The Sultan of Batchian is the leaf!: dependant of the three Gilolo princes, for he will not truft himfelf in the power of the Dutch, ever Jince they fent a great force to his town, on the ifland Mandioly, to furprife him in the night. A captain of Buggefies having apprifed him of it in time, the Sultan got off in fmall canoes with his family and mod portable effects, through creeks, and narrow arms of the fea, with which his country is divided into many iflands, Next morning the Dutch wreaked their vengeance on his houfe and furniture. This happened ten or twelve years ago i fince then, matters have been fo far made up, that he admits eight or ten Dutch foldiers about his perfon, at his houfe, which is not far from Fort Barnevelt, in the flraits of Batiang or Labuhat. The Sultan of Batchian once offered to fearch for gold in his country, where it certainly abounds: but, the Dutch fignifying to him that they expected the monopoly of what he fhould find, in exchange for calicoes, iron, &c. which he might want, and that he mould not fend to other parts for thofe necefTaries, he declined encouraging his people to make the fearch he had propofed. The Sultan of Batchian is fovereign not only of the ifland fo called, but of the iflands Ooby, Ceram, and Goram—Goram has thirteen Mofques. I have TO N E W G U I N E Z9 I have been told that the iflands of Ternate and Tidore,. but on ^W*^ Ternate efpecially, European garden ftuffgrows in as great perfection Wr* * as at Batavia. Both thefe iflands are exceedingly well watered, by ftreams from their refpe&ive peaks, which are generally covered witfo clouds, and the peak of Ternate fometimes emits fire.. On the ifland Motir was lately a great eruption, attended with an earthquake. I had an accout of it from a Buggefs, who, during the eruption at Motir,. fet off in his prow* into which he afTured me fome hot ftones fell. The ifland Gilolo* abounds with bullocks and bufTalos, goats and-deer, alfo wild hogsj there are but few fheep, and no wild beafts. The wild hogs frequent the places where fago trees have lately been, cut down, and the flour or pith has been taken out. They there fea ft and fatten on the remains, and thofe who have feen them, have de-fcribed them to me, as appearing with their young black pigs, like flies upon a table. The fago or libby tree, has, like the coco nut tree, no diftincr. bark that peels off, and may be defined a long tube of hard wood, about two inches thick, containing a pulp or pith mixed with many longitudinal fibres. The tree being felled, it is cut into lengths of about five or fix feet. A part of the hard wood is than iliced off, and the workman, coming to the pith, cuts acrofs (generally with an adze * The Dutch forbid the manufacturing of cloth on the ifland Gilolo ; notwithflanding which, the natives do it, getting a great deal of cotton yarn from the iiland Bally, and the Buggefs country. The Buggcfles make exceeding good chcoucred cloth, veiy ftrong. made t&ade of hard wood called ancebong') the longitudinal fibres and the [November, i j r u—v-w pith together; leaving a part at each end uncut; fo that, when it is excavated, there remains a trough, into which the pulp is again put, mixed with water, and beat with a piece of wood; then the fibres Separated from the pulp, float atop, and the flour fubfides. After being cleared in this manner by feveral waters, the pulp is put into cylindrical bafkets, made of the leaves of the tree; and, if it is to be kept fome time, thofe bafkets are generally funk in frefh water. One tree will produce from two to four hundred weight of flour. I have often found large pieces of the fago tree on the fea fhore, drifts from other countries. The fago, thus fteeped in the fait water, had always a four difagreeable fmell j and in this irate, I dare fay, the wild hogs would not tafte it. The leaf of the fago tree makes the beft covering for houfes, of all the palm * kind : it will laft feven years. Coverings of the nipa or common attop, fuch as they ufe on fhe fouth weft coaft of Sumatra, will not laft half the time. When fago trees are cut down, frefh ones fprout up from the roots. We feldom or never fee fago in Europe, but in a granulated flate. To bring it into this flate from the flour, it muft be firft moiftened, and paffed through a neve into an iron pot (very fhallow) held over a fire, which enables it to aflurne a globular form. * Thofe trees of the palm kind, have all got a heart Jike what is called the cabbage tree ; even the head of the common rattan has a fmall cabbage, of which I have eat. Thus, TO NEW GUINEA. Thus, all our grained fago is half baked, and will keep long. The pulp or powder, of which this is made, will alfo keep long, if prefcrved from the air; but, if expofed, it prefently turns four. The Papua oven, for this flour, is made of earthen ware. It is generally nine inches fquare, and about four deep: it is divided into two equal parts, by a partition parallel to its fides. Each of thofe parts is-fubdivided into eight or nine* about an inch broad ; fo the whole contains two rows of cells, about eight or nine in a row. When the cell is broad, .the fago cake is not likely to be well baked. I think the bed: fized cell is fuch as would contain an ordinary octavo volume upon its edge. When they are of fuch a fize, the cakes will be properly baked, in the following manner, . The oven is fuppofed to have at its bottom, a round handle, by which the baker turns the cells downward upon the lire. When fuf* ficuntly heated, it is turned with the mouths of thecells up; and.then refts upon the handle (which is now become the bottom) as on a ftand. Whillt the oven is" heating, the baker is fuppofed to have prepared his flour, by bre king the lumps fmall ; moiftening it with water, if too dry, and pafling'it once or twice through a fieve, at the fame time rejecting any parts that look black or fmell four. This done, he fills the cells with the flour, lays a bit of clean leaf over, and with his finger prefles the flour down into the cell, then covers all up with leaves, and puts a ftone or piece of wo xl atop, to keep in the heat. In about ten or twelve minutes, the cakes will be fuffkier.tly baked, G' according according to their thicknefs and bread thus baked, will keep, I am told, feveral years. I have kept it twelve months, nor did vermin deilroy it in that time. It may not be amifs to mix a little fait with the flour. The fago bread, frefh from the oven, eats juft like hot rolls. I grew very fond of it, as did both my officers. If the baker hits his time, the cakes will be nicely browned on each fide. If the heat be too , great, the corners of the cakes will melt into a jelly, which, when kept, becomes hard and horny ; and, if eat frefh, proves inlipid. When properly baked, it is in a kind of middle flate, between raw and jellied. A fago cake, when hard, requires to be foaked in water, before it be eaten, it then foftens and fwells into a curd, like bifcuit foaked; but, if eat without foaking (unlefs frefh from the oven) it feels difa-greeable, like fand in the mouth.. No wonder then, if agriculture be neglected in a country, where the labour of five men, in felling fago trees, beating the flour, and inilautly baking the bread, will maintain a hundred. I muft own my crew would have preferred rice; and, when my fmall flock of rice, which I carried from Balambangan, was near expended, I have heard them grumble, and fay, nanti makan rati Papua, " we muft foon eat Papua bread." But, as I took all opportunities of baking it frefh, being al-moft continually in port, they were very well contented. The fago bread intended for immediate ufe, need not be kept fo long in the oven as what is intended for fea ufe, which may be faid to referable bifcuit. I have TO NEW G U I N E A, 43 I have often refljfted how well Da npier, Funnel, Roggeweinj and 1774- 1 Novcaiber. many other circumnavigators might have fared, when palling thi^s ^— way in diftrefs for provifions had they kr.own where to find the groves of figo trees, with which mod iflands here in low latitudes abound; Morty, near Gilolo efpecially. Frefh bread made of fago flour, and the kima (a large fhell fi(h like a cockle) would have been no bad fupport among the Moluccas. The kima is found in abundance, of all fizes, at low water, during fpring tides, on the reefs of coral rocks* From experience, I equal the frefh baked fago bread to our wheat* bread; and the kima flewed, is as good as mod fifh, nor does one tire of it 5 but it mud be flewed fome time, or it will not be tender. Its row will fometimes weigh fix pounds ; the fifh altogether, when, cleared of the fhell, weighing twenty or thirty pounds. Neither is the kima cockle * the worfe for being large. Sometimes the kima in the fhell may endanger ltaving a fmall canoe, getting it in. The beft way is to put a flick under water, into the gaping fhell, which then clofes and holds fafl; then drag, or lift it towards the fhorc, and ftab it with a cutlafs; it dies immediately, and can be taken out. Small kimas, about the fize of a man's head, are very good ~ they will keep long alive if wetted frequently with fait water. Large fhips, navigating in thofe feas, muft naturally dread the reefs of rocks, which might produce fo much good to them, if in diftrefs for provifions: but to profit from them, they mutt hit t it time of low water fpring-tides. The vafl fleets of Mangaio boats that fet out from * Dumpier mentions in his voyage to New Britain, his having got a cockle fliell lb. weight, on the weft coafl: of New Guinea. Harris's collection, p. 124. 2 Sooloo 4| A V O Y A G E ^r?7i' Soolcx) and Mindano, to cruize among the Philippine iflands, agaihft November. --» the Spaniards, truft to the reefs of rocks, which may be faid to fur-round all thofe iflands, producing them fifh for their fubfiflance; as they only lay in rice, or fago bread. The account I have given of the fago tree, fhews how eafily the inhabitants of thofe countries may find fubfiftance. They have alfo all over the Moluccas, and on New Guinea, the rima, or bread fruit, which is the chief food of the inhabitants of Otaheitee, in the South Sea, where (according to doctor Forfler's* curious computation) ten or twelve perfons live eight months upon the produce of an acre, planted with this. tree. 1 ihall therefore endeavour to fhow how many perfons may live on an acre, planted with fago trees, which, growing more upright, and the roots not fpreading fo much, will confequcntly take up much lefs room than the rima tree. I fhall allow a fago tree to take up the room of 10 feet fquared, or ioo fquare feet. Now, the contents of an acre are 43,500 fquare feet, which being divided by a hundred, allow 435 trees to grow within that fpace. But, to give ample room, I fhall fay 300 trees only; and fuppofing that, one with another, they give 300 weight of flour; then three trees, or 900 weight may maintain one man for a year, and an acre to be cut down, would maintain 100 men for the fame time. Now as fago trees are 7 years a growing, 1 divide 100 by 7, which will then allow 14 men to be maintained for a year, on the produce of one feventh part of an acre, immediately ; or, on the produce of a whole * Obfcrvations in a voyage round the world, p. 220. acre, TO NEW GUINEA. acre, progreflively cut, one feventh part at a time, allowing frefh trees to fprout up. So far the inhabitants of the globe, in low latitudes, may be juflly confidered as happily fituated -t fomething like what is faid of the golden age, they may live almofb without labour. But certain evils, in a great meafure, counterbalance this feeming happinefs : the faculties of the mind are blunted, and the body is fo enervated by indolence, that thefe petty flates are fubjedf. to be overcome, by what Europeans would call a very defpicable enemy, as they know nothing of the polity of great focieties. The inhabitants of the Moluccas in particular, not being able to maintain their independence againfl Europeans, (whatever they did before hiffory gives an account of them) have had their country continually in a ftate of war, as the monopoly of the clove and nutmeg has been fucceffively a fubjed/t of contention between the Portugueze, Spaniards, and Dutch. I choofe to draw a veil over that part of hiflory, which informs us that our own country ever had any (hare in that trade. CHAP- CHAPTER IV. Tuan Hadjee returns on Board with a Mejfenger from the Sultan of Bat* chian — Sailed from Bijjory Harbour—Had an accidental Interview with the Sultan of Batchian, on the Ifland Bally—Sailed thence for Tojnoguy — Put into Selang Harbour—Defcription of it—Sailed thence, and put into a Harbour on the IJland Gag^ Defcription of it—Sailed thence, and arrived at Tomoguy, where we narrowly efcaped Shipwreck—Hauled the Vfjj'el ajljore to repair. 1774. Thurfday the firft of December, a fiilimg boat came on board, Dei e' ber. She was the only embarkation I had ieen fince we left TonkyI, excepting the fmall canoe off Karakita. At night, I lay off in twelve fathom water, muddy ground y but, in the day I hauled clofe to the peninfula: I was then hid from the fea. This I did to avoid being ieen by any Dutch cruifer in the offing, that might be pafling this way. A large fhip might lie clofe to the peninfula, in five fathom water, muddy ground, and heave down conveniently, as it is fteep. On Friday the 2d, it blew very frefh from the N. W. faw nobody all day—gathered, near the fea more, fome ripe limes from the tree. On Saturday the 3d, about noon, Tuan Hadjee returned by fea; he came in a fmall prow or canoe, mounted with outrii gers, and had three prows befides with him. He was accompanied by a meffenger from TO NEW GUINEA, 47 from the Sultan of Batchian, with a prefent of fowls, fruit, rice, &c. 1774. r December. and about twenty pounds of cloves in a bafket. The meffenger's name u— was Tuan Bobo. In return, I prefented him with a whole piece of Englifh fcarlet broad cloth, for the Sultan j and two pieces of gingham for himfelf. I obferved Tuan Hadjee fent mofl of the fine goods he had got from Mr. Herbert, at Balambangan, afhore at this place, by Tuan Bobo. At four in the afternoon we rowed out of BifTory Harbour, and flood to the fouthward : at midnight, we anchored behind a fmall ifle, called Pulo Bally, in two fathom water, fandy ground. On Sunday the 4th, in the morning, we had a hard fquall of wind from the N. W. with rain. About ten in the forenoon, came on board in a canoe three perfons, who faid they were Rajahs on the ifland Ceram. After Tuan Hadjee and I had a little converfation with them, concerning that ifland, and other matters, in which they told me that cloves certainly grew on many parts of it, they went afhore to the ifland Bally. We then weighed, and got under fail, intending to touch at the ifland of Waygiou, or fomewhere near it, in order, as I had agreed with Tuan Hadjee, to purchafe, and fit up a corocora, to enable us to profecute our voyage to New Guinea j for we thought Batchian was too near Ternate to do that bufinefs there, Prefently after we faw a boat flanding towards us, with a white flag. Tuan Hadjee told me it was the Sultan of Batchian. As it then blew frefh, and the wind came round from the N. W. to the weft, and W. by S. I put back to regain the ifland. I found the veflel work very very ill, being hard to veer; and 1 regained the anchorage with difficulty. The Sultan had many fmall prows attending him; one of them came very opportunely to tow us in behind the illand. I then went afhore with Tuan Hadjee, to pay my refpecls to the Sultan of Batchian. He fat under the made of a covered canoe, that was hauled up, upon fome boards laid acrofs the gunnel ; and, when I came within ten or twelve yards of him, he ran forwards and embraced me. After being feated in the canoe, I told him in Malays, which he fpoke very well, that I was going to Tanna Papua, (New Guinea) and afked the favour of him to aflift me with a linguift. He verv readily confented to my requeft, and defired me to go to the ifland Tomoguy, near the large ifland Waygiou, where he would give direction, that one captain Marcca mould accompany me to New Guinea, and be my linguiit. In the converfation I had with the Sultan, I told him the Englifh wifhed him very well, but, would have nothing to fay to the Molucca iflands j and I advifed him to keep on good terms with the Dutch, When I had ftaid with him about an hour, I took my leave. I found I was the firft Englishman he had ever feen. ■ The Sultan is a handfomc man, about forty-four years of age. Tuan Hadjee, whilft we were with the Sultan, fat on the ground, and every time he fpoke to the Sultan, nay almoft at every word, lifted his hands clofe together to his head, it being the Molucca cuftom to do it frequently, and much oftener than in Indoflan. Pulo Pulo Bally* is an ifland about two miles round, and lies in the latitude of qo° 30' S. There is good anchorage to the eaftward of it in twelve and thirteen fathom water, muddy ground. It has abundance of wood and frefh water ; and as I went behind it from the S. W. I believe there is no danger that way. A fmall ifland, called Siao, lies near it. About three leagues S. W. of Bally are fome dangerous breakers, which I faw very high, as it was ftormy this morning. About two in the afternoon, we weighed and flood on to the fouthward, the weather being moderate : but we found a large fwell from the weftward,. and paffed within the fhoal which has been mentioned. The breakers were exceedingly high upon it. The channel between it and the eppofite fbore of Batchian is about five miles wide. About ten at night it fell calm, during which I found a great fwell again from the weftward, and the fea broke feveral times-; owing, I fuppofe,. to a ftrong current. On the fouth-weft' point of Batchian is a long low point, which I call Flat Point. We palTed it in the night, about three miles off, and had no foundings with feventy fathoms of line. It lies in latitude oo° 38' S. and longitude 1230 38' E- On Monday the 5th, in the morning, Flat Point -f- bore N. W. by fo and the high hill of Labuhat, on the eafl fide of the ftraits that divide Batchian from it, bore E. by S. At the fame time we could fee the ifland Ooby very plain, and Piilo Tappa bore S. S. E. Had no ground within half a mile of the fhore. About noon we were abreafl of the ftraits above mentioned : they are called fometimes the ftraits of Betyang; and we could fee within the ftraits a hill with a flat top? like what is called the fruftum of a cone. The Dutch fort Barnavek is faid to be at the foot of it. ♦ Plate III. -f- Plate III. and IV. II At At noon we were in the latitude of oo° 45' S. Labuhat Hill bearing E. half N. Converfing with Tuan Hadjee about Batchian, he informed me, that a great deal of cloves might be had from thence, and from Gilolo alfo, if any fhip mould think of trading that way ,• the Dutch being much off their guard to what they were formerly. He alfo told me, pearls were to be had amongft the Moluccas. On Tuefday the 6th, we had fqually and rainy weather, with W. and W. N. W. winds j fleered eafl. About ten in the morning, the wind coming to the S. E. ran into the harbour of Selang. * In fleering along-more, the ifland Selang, that makes the harbour, may be eafily perceived. It is not flat and low, neither is it very high ; but the eaft part flopes down to where it feems to join the main land of Batchian ; the ftraits there being narrow, and not five foot deep. The ifland forms two harbours with the main land ; an outer and an inner harbour. There is no danger in running into either, but what is plainly feen. I would advife to keep near the ifland. In going into the inner harbour, keep ftill near the ifland, and you will pafs between two reefs, both of which may be feen even at high water, as they will then be only covered with three foot and a half water, and the coral rocks fhow themfelves very plain under water in fo fmall a depth. The width between the reefs is about 100 fathom, and the depth 12 fathom, foft muddy ground ; the inner harbour being about two miles broad and three long, and the general depth ten fathom. The latitude of Selang harbour is oo° 50' S. and its longitude 124° jo' E. * Plate V. In 5C 1774- Deceml ei'< c—;—.J TO NEW GUINEA. $t In the evening we rowed out of the harbour ; but the wind coming 1774- December. to the eaftward, we put back, and anchored behind the fecond point, 1 in the outer harbour. On Wednefday the 7th, in order to compleat our water, as I did not immediately find any on the ifland, we rowed behind a reef of rocks, in the outer harbour, and anchored in feven fathom good holding ground, clofe to the main land of Batchian. Here I found frefh water very acceffible; a reef of coral rocks fhel-tcring this little harbour from the S. and S. W. fwell, the point of Labuhat (the extreme to the weftward) being then fhut in with what I call Attop Point, as many nipa or attop trees grow there. To day it blew very frefh from the weflward. Between this and the ftraits of Labuhat, or Bytyang, which we have paffed, lies, as Tuan Hadjee told me, a moft commodious harbour, called Wyoua; but we did not go into it. Hitherto we faw no boats, houfes, or people. Sent a little way into the woods in fearch of clove trees, but none were found. The people, however, difcovered many nutmeg trees very tall. There was-no fruit vifible on the branches ; but many old nutmegs were lying on, the ground, and moll of them had fprouted. Here all hands bathed, which we generally did when frefh water was acceflible. We alfo got on Attop Point many kima, which made excellent curry, H z Ou On Thurfday the 8th, we weighed in the morning, and Tailed Out of the harbour of Selang with a firlb land wind : it then fell calm. About ten A. M. the wind came frefh from the fouth-weft j fteered S. E. raffed a fpot of coral rocks with five fathom water on forae parts of it, lying S. E. by S. from the eaft point of Selang ifland, and about two miles diftant from it. I was told by fome of Tuan Had-jee's people, that there was a paffage for fhips within it, and I found upon it a great rippling of a tide or current. At four P. M. we faw the iflands that are faid to lie to the fouthward of Pulo Dammer, and are called Gorongo. They bore eaft. In the night we fleered S. E. to avoid fome rocks, which Tuan Hadjee faid lay to the caftward of us. In the morning of the 9th, we could fee Pulo Pifang * bearing eaft about eight leagues ; it is covered with trees j and two iflands called Liliola and Tapiola, covered alfo with trees ; the iflands Gorongo, that lie fouth of Pulo Dammer, (mentioned yefterday) bearing north. They lie in i° 10' S. latitude ; Pulo Pifang lies in latitude i° 30' S. and longitude 125° 40' E. At funfct Pulo Pifang bore S. by E. half E. We could then fee the high land of Ceram very diftant: hauled up N. E. On Saturday the 10th, in the morning we could fee the iflands of Bo, bearing S. S. E. At the fame time Pulo Pifang bore S. W. by S. We had very fmooth water, with the wind at N. W. and N. W. by W. fleering N. E. I had no obfervation at noon, Pulo Pifang then bore S. W. 16 leagues. Pulo Bo, bore fouth, and Pulo Popo fouth eaft; could alfo fee an ifland called Gag, of middling height, bearing north eaft. There was little wind, fometimes it was calm. * Plate VI, N° 4. Sunday Sunday t^t nth. All night we fleered north eaft, with the wind at weft, and rowed a good deal. In the morning, feveral fmall iflands, flat and low, bore from E. by N. to E. S. E. they were about four in number; one in particular, called Piamis, had a pointed peak, might be three or four hundred feet high. At noon, Pulo Gag* bore N. N. E. five or fix leagues. We were then in the latitude of oo° 35' fouth. At one P. M. Pulo Gag bore from N. half E. to N. E by N. about four leagues diftant. Another ifland, in appearance, as high as Gag, bore N. W. by N. half N. about ten leagues diftant: this we found afterwards to be Gibby.-f Two fmall iflands, one of them with a hum-moc upon it, lay S. by W. from Gag; they are named Doif. Some high land appeared to the eaftward, which I was told to be the ifland Waygiou. At fun fet, a boat with three Papua men came on board ; I hired them to tow us into a fine bay on the fouth eaft quarter of Pulo Gag. Here we anchored in eight fathom water, muddy ground, within fifty yards of the ftrand. At eight in the evening, Tuan Hadjee went to Tomoguy, whither we had been directed, (a place near Gibby Monpine, on the weft coaft of the ifland Waygiou) in the fame boat, leaving her owner, who was a Papua man, and fpoke good Malays, on board of the galley. On Monday the 12th, in the morning, I went afhore upon Gag, and found a fmall clear rivulet, where we watered. We alfo fupplied our-felves with wood, then weighed and rowed out, intending to proceed • Plate II. and VII. T Plate VII, to '774. to the ifland of Tomoguy; as we expefted Tuan Hadjee, by this time, December. -v—had been there. At the mouth of the harbour we met a boat with four Papua men, and two women, which I hired to tow us out, there being little wind, and we therefore rowing at the fame time. I obfcrved the two women plied their paddles more than the men : their hire was a red handkerchief. Having got out of the bay, we found a tide or current fet ftrong to the northward : fo we continued all night fleering north eafl> thinking the tide fet then to the fouthward. At noon we were in the ktitude of oo° 10' fouth. The 13th was calm in the morning; a little before noon, we faw a boat ftanding towards us. At noon, Pulo Gag bore from W. by S. to S. W. by W. fix leagues; and the fouth part of Gibby, bore wefl, half north ; our latitude was then co° io' fouth. A high ifland called Ruib, at the fame time, bore N. by E. half E. and part of Waygiou, which remarkably figures a cock's comb,* being a long indented ridge of a hill, with fome white chalky fpots upon it, bore E, N. E. At this time, we were within fight of the beach of a long flat ifland, called Yew, which bore from E. by N. to E. by S. And we faw ten fmall low iflands to the fouthward. But, before I go farther, I muft fay fomething of the ifland Gag, and then return to Tuan Hadjee, who came on board a little after noon, in the fame boat wherein the night before he had left that ifland. Pulo Gag, in latitude co° iS' fouth, and longitude 126° 40' eaft, is an ifland of middling height. When plainly feen, it looks very like » Plate VIII. N° 2. 5, and 6. land TO NEW GUINEA. 55 land of Europe, not being loaded with wood, as iflands in Malay *?74- 1 o J December. countries generally are. From this circumftance, I judge it to be ra- — ther barren in general; tho' the valley where I landed, and which appears in the view, had a rich foil, with a moft luxuriant vegetation; and that part of the ifland, on the north fide of the bay, is covered with tall timber trees; whereas, the trees on thofe other parts that appear in the view, to the fouth wefl, are rather dwarfifh. I was told that a good many fago trees grew upon it. This ifland is not inhabited, tho' travellers by water, in their way from Patany-hook, on the ifland Gilolo, and from the ifland Gibby to Waygiou, often put into the bay where I did, to pafs the night, and fometimes ftay there a fifhing for feveral days; the Ifland Gag being about half way betwixt Gibby and Waygiou, and almofl: in the tract. To go into the bay, fend firft a boat to lie upon the fpots of coral rocks, that are on each hand in the entrance, which is fuflicientiy broad. Thefe rocks fliow themfelves by their bright colour under water; but never above water, even at the loweft. Off Pulo Gag lie feveral hanks, with ten and twenty fathom depth, fandy ground: on thofe banks is good fifhing. A little after noon, as I have faid, Tuan Hadjee returned on board in the fame boat that carried him from Gag; he brought captain Ma* reca along with him, who was to be our linguifl to New Guinea. We therefore immediately bore away for the ifland of Tomoguy, where Captain Mareca lived, and which was not yet feen, it being hid by the larger iflands of Batang Pally. We December. ^e Pan^ to tne fouthward of Batang Pally, * by the north fide of w-v»j a fmall low ifland, not half a mile round, covered with trees, leaving it on the right hand, and flill fleering round Batang Pally, After fun-fet, we arrived at Tomoguy ifland, and palling fouthward, anchored to the eaflward of it, in eighteen fathoms muddy ground, pretty clofe to fhore: it was then near eight o'clock, and very dark. On the Papua man's going afhore, I rewarded him handfomely for the ufe of his boat. On Wednefday the 14th, in the morning it began to blow at north eafl; being a lee fhore and very fteep, we rode for fome time in great danger. We dragged our grapnel from rhe mud foundings, but it luckily hooked the coral rocks, and. held fait, while the fea broke undar our flern. I could not but be vexed Captain Mareca had brought us to an anchor in fo bad a place, when many fafe harbours were near; and the darknefs, when we anchored the night before, prevented my feeing the badnefs of our berth. About noon, when the gale had moderated a little, Captain Mareca came to us in a corocoro, with ten men and paddles. They prefently carried out a wooden anchor, and rattan cable, which by floating, made an excellent warp; they alio towed us, and we got out of our danger. I immediately made fail for a place called Manafuin, about two leagues from Tomoguy; and there I anchored in a fmooth bay, in twelve fathom water, clean fandy ground. The people, who aflifled us fo opportunely, were rewarded to their wifh. • Plate VIII. N°2. * • On TO NEW G U I N E A. Thurfday the 15th. In this bay,. I palled the night very happy^ with the thoughts of having juft efcaped fhipwreck. Tuan Hadjee and I had agrted to haul the veffel afhore at Tomoguy, or fome where neaX it, not only to clean, as I feared the worms had got into her bottom, but to raife her one flreak or plank, as I found her, in crofling from Tonkyl to the Moluccas, rather too low, the fea often coming over her gunnel, which was no higher than her gallery beams, and getting into the hold through the thatch. I had not been afhore at Tomoguy;. and, from the danger I had experienced near it, I imagined we could not there do our bufinefs with fafety. I therefore propofed to haul afhore, where we were. To this Tuan Hadjee objected, as did mod of the people that belonged to him: fo I did not infifl upon it. About noon, Captain Mareca came on board in the corocoro that had fo greatly afnfted us yeflerday. He faid, we might haul afhore at high water, clofe to his houfe, the veffel being previoufly lightened, to enable her to float over the coral rocks. To this I confented : fo we weighed, and rowed back to Tomoguy, Captain Mareca's corocoro towing us at the fame time. We anchored in fifteen fathom, oppofite his houfe, until the tide ferved ; and having taken up fome of the coral rocks, as well as lightened the veflel, we hauled her afhore at a village, confifling only of Captain Mareca's houfe, the houfe of "the Pa* pua man, whofe boat carried Tuan Hadjee from Pulo Gag, and three more little habitations. Tomoguy is an ifland about two miles round, fhaped like a horfe fhoe; the hollow being that bay, where I had lately made fo narrow an efcape. On the ifland rifes a hill, which takes up about three fourths I . of tffA' of its compafs; and on the fide of this hill, which may be a hundred December. ... , . < r 1 c • l—%—j and fifty foot high, are plantations or tropical trims and roots. The hill towards the weft, is rather ftecp, the Horfe Shoe bay lying to the eaftward. From the hill I could fee, to the fouthward, many low iflands, of which I took fome notice the day before 1 came to Tomoguy. I could alfo fee diftant land to the fouthward; they called it Batanta and Famiay. The ifland Tomoguy lies in latitude oo* 15' :S. and longitude 1270 4', E. CHAP- s.Straifr JT, t.t.Ta/ifuz J, AA/'M/n/.uVe^t T1 S.SMS °f Ztytfta. JT.w:i>W.'i mile />. A A JSireb t Ztland* 2' ^A^T of Malaleo Harbour J,?/ 'fa a, (y 2[r. ap2*a Island Sea/e s>f*2 Al//c. < f 6- r< Harbour of (rag Hat *0O*» /.v S. Zara? ?/26l40Jl. >>/' GrunA Zk nut f/v the SwihiTi 2frc&? . VI.3 Seal* >/' /j ft l(f/o,'S$$ I'uii' Sao p I'ulo Bally Pakt of B A T C II IAN I SI A N I) /a t*>y&l£*m40 /<] of Green,* ('/'/a.u- ('<>n<\/'i'/t/frt' Tidtjron House ,hvldteo Bird* Nr.'t Ti >Vnr/V.-'|"/",Ml" \ '-"alalia l Qand /-. MemarkaMe A'erA }JJ.Mm& Xv/ /.>//'///<• /'J////?///co ////<> A//:f<>ry //,■ X.W./'.X.l r. /{//><■/;> ri!c/,//i <>.<>/•//„,<■ r<>nr S./>.]\'."2.' TlwiFon'A't delin 1 T/lo\ Y'warrv Sciil/i Fu/'h'r/icJ ityt't fflwl'JWrrsr ** t//r Art /JJQ . CHAPTER V. Sent a Boat to the IJland Salwatty, to pitrchafe Sago Bread—Was vifited by the Synagees of the Country—Had my Houfe robbed—A Corocoro arrives from Batchian with Tuan Bobo on Board, and another Officer, who bring a Letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee—-Farther TranJac~tions there—Prepare to depart—Account of the Inhabitants, ON Friday, December the 16th, the veffel hauled up and fecured, we were mod of the day employed in warning and cleaning her infide, for Muflulmen are not very cleanly. At high water we hauled her up a little farther. All day it blew frefh from north wefl. On Saturday the 17th, we had itill frefh north wefl: winds, with rain. Sent the people to cut wood for burning the coral rocks we had gathered, in order to make chenam (lime) for mixing with oil to be put upon the veffel's bottom. On the 18th, frefh north wefl winds with rain. Hired a corocoro to go to the ifland of Salwatty, to purchafe fago bread. For this purpofe, I fent red handkerchiefs and various calicoes. Tuan Hadjee writ by the boat to fome of his acquaintance there, to afliff, the commander in his bufinefs. I 2 On 1774-Dei ember. 1774- On Monday the 19th, we had for the fir ft part of the day moderate December, J , , , - 1—<—-' weather, with calms. Afternoon brought hard gales from the N. W. with thunder, lightening, and rain j a fwell came alfo in, which made the veffel lie uneafy, and thump. On Tuefday the 20th, with variable winds and rain, came to vifit me, fome perfons, who Tuan Hadjee faid were Synagees (certain chiefs) of the country. They were long hair, were Mahometans, and held their title from the Sultan of Tidore. They behaved civilly, in expectation of prefents, which I made them ; Tuan Hadjee, to whom they paid great refpecl, telling me it was neceffary. Two boats arriving, 1 bought from Papua men, who were in them, fago flour, put up in Cylindrical bafkets, made of the leaves of the tree. Thefe Papua men had their frizzled black locks flicking out a great way from their heads, and were as black as African Coffres. On Wednefday the 21 ft, eafterly winds and calms. This is the firft fair day we have had fince our arrival. * To day, came in from Gibby feveral fmall prows or corocorosj for they call them by either name. I found it was expected I fhould make the -mailers fmall prefents, which I thought prudent to do. Tuan Hadjee was much refpetfed by them, and loved to do things genteelly, to which I was not averfe. On Thurfday the 22d, the weather was moderate, but we had at times, feveral very hard fqualls from the N. W. In the night feveral, not all, of the Gibby prows failed. To day we made a new lateen mainfail, TO NEW GUINEA, 61 main fail, and breamed the veffei's bottom, into which I found the »7?4. December, worm had jufl entered. I purchafed alfo a corocoro, which we fet — about fitting up, to aflift us in our intended voyage. On Friday the 23d, had weflerly winds, with heavy fqualls and rain in the night. As I wanted to expedite our bufinefs, and get afloat, I embraced an opportunity when it was fair, to calk the ftarboard fide of the galley, above water. In the night my houfe was robbed of fome fhirts, and other wearing apparel. My fervant Matthew purfued the thief with a cutlafs; but I was not difpleafed he did not catch him : Matthew being a lad of fpirit, there might have been bloodflied. On Saturday the 24th, we had N. W. winds, with frequent mowers; towards the evening it was calm. While we lay here, we were accommodated with fifh (bonettas) and greens, from Captain Mareca's garden ,• whence we were rupplied with pumpkin fprouts, the tops of the fweet potatoe, and brinjals.* On Sunday the 25th, the winds at W. and W. N. W. employed ourfelves in covering the velfel with fago leaves- On Monday the 26th, we had weflerly winds and rain. To day the boat returned from Salwatty, with three thoufand cakes of fago bread, all in excellent order. Fixed two gunnel planks, fifteen inches broad, * a fruit, which parboiled, and then roafted, eats like an artichoak. the »774* the whole length of the veiTel. Captain Mareca, who had contracted December. o <■—--1 to do it, cut the planks out of a- tree. To day, the thief that robbed * me was taken, and brought to Captain Mareca's houfe; but none of the ftolen goods were brought with him. They afked how I would have him puniihed ; I replied, as the robbery was committed afhore, they might punifh him their own way. The fellow, who was a Papua CofFre, did not feem much alhamed. I fufpeded a trick at the. bottom, which made me aware of indulging refentment. I was told they did nothing to him. On the 27th, the former part of the day we had variable winds, with rain the latter part eaflerly winds. About noon arrived a corocoro-from Batchian, with two officers, one of them-(Tuan Bobo) the perfon fent to me by the Sultan of Batchian, at Biflory harbour, as has been related j the other called Tuan Affahan. I faluted them on their landing, with three fwivel guns. They brought a letter from the Sultan to Tuan Hadjee; but none to me. However, they brought me, with the Sultan's compliments, fix bafkets, about fifteen pound each, of excellent fago bread, of a reddiih colour, and fix bafkets of fine rice. The oflicers told me they had orders from the Sultan of Batchian, to accompany me, whitherfoever I thought proper to go, to afftfl; me with every thing in their power, and afterwards to proceed with me back to Balambangan. I kept them to drink tea with me in the evening. The veffel had eighteen men, befides the two officers, with two brafs fwivel guns, and many bows and arrows. On Weilnefday the 28th, we had eaflerly winds, during the former, and north weft winds, the latter part of the day. The Batchian people aflifted me in repairing the veffel. On On Tfatrfdav the 20th, north weft winds began, and eafterly winds '774. 0 J December. ended the day. Employed in nniming the gunnel planks. Obfervel <~—*—J the fun's amplitude afhore, and found the variation of the compafs to be one degree eaft. On Friday the 30th, we had, for the former part, eafterly winds, during the latter, had winds from the N. N. W. with frefh gales. Employed as yefterday. To day feveral Patany prows arrived. About fun fet, I went to the top of the hill, and took the bearings oft" I'ia-mis Peak, as well as of the low flat iflands adjacent. From the hill I could fee to the fouthward, the diftant land of Famiay and Batanta, To day, I employed a Papua man to make a wooden anchor -y and advanced him a new Pulicat handkerchief, which was to be its price. About an hour after dark, feveral Patany men, lately from Gibby, which ifland lies in their way from Patany to Tomoguy, aifembled at my houfe, and, in a very bold manner, afked me for Betel money. I got Tuan Hadjee, and Tuan Buffora, a man I had engaged to go with me to Tanna Papua, to afTure them, that I intended to make them hand-fome prefents, they being Synagees of Patany Hook, on Gilolo, and of the ifland Gibby ; that I had made prefents to fome perfons of rank, of Gibby-Monpine, on the ifland Waygiou, who had honoured me with a vifit; and, that if they would come next day, I fhould be glad to fee them. I kept, however, a good watch all night, not much liking the company I had got amongft. Next day, Saturday the 31ft, about fevcn in the morning, I faw the wooden anchor, I had employed the Papua man to make for me, lying December on tne cut defaced. I inftantly found out the man, *—-—J who had got his fhield in his hand, his lance, bows and arrows, and was preparing to fet off in his boat, as on a journey; at the fame time, he feemed to be very much difpleafed, and fpoke angrily. I took him by the hand, and, pointing to the mangled anchor, laughed, faying, it would do very well. With much difficulty, I got him into my houfe, where I appeafed his wrath, and gave him about ten times its value. Immediately after this, finding the Batchian officers did not come to breakfaft as ufual, I went to them. They looked very grave, and had all their people ready as if to lanch their corocoro, that was hauled up, on hearing the anchor carpenter make a noife, which they left me to allay. A little while after this, they came to my houfe to breakfaft. Some days -before, I had prefented the carpenter's father, whofe boat carried Tuan Hadjee from Gag to Tomoguy, with a half worn fcarlet waiftcoat, and a fathom of new fcarlet broad cloth. The father contributed much to appeafe his fon's wrath; but, though I never could learn the truth, I fufpecled the man fet on to impofe, or perhaps to pick a quarrel : all that day, therefore, I went with loaded pittols, and kept others armed alfo. About eleven, A. M. the Patany and Gibby men came to wait on me. I treated them with a difh of tea, and gave each fome tea and fugar candy, put up in paper ; which they accepted with a good grace. I then prefented each of them (about eight in number) with two pieces of Surat, and various other calicoe goods, to the amount of fixty dollars, with which they were fatisfied. To To day we had eaflerly winds, the former and latter parts. About noon we had N. N. W. winds and rain. Finifhed the flarboard fide of the veflel, and paid it with lime, mixed with water, in which certain leaves of trees had been fleeped. This afternoon, arrived many fmall corocoros from Warjow, which lies on the north eafl part of the ifland Waygiou. On board of them were only Papua people, who feemed afraid of coming amongft the Mahometans. I bought from them thirty-fix rolls of fago flour, very reafonable. I alfo purchafed from Captain Mareca an old prow, which I broke up for boards, to lay acrofs the lower beams of the veflel for the people to fleep on. On Sunday > January lit, 1775, had northerly winds. To day I finifhed caulking the larboard fide of the veflel, and paid it with lime, mixed with the liquid already mentioned, our oil being done. We were employed alfo in making attops, and covering the veffel with them, being refolved to get afloat as foon as poflible. On Monday the 2d, we had variable winds. Finifhed covering the veffel. At three P. M. hauled off, and anchored jufl without the reef, Tuefday the 3d. Got our flores, Sec* very expeditioufly on board, in a fmall new corocoro, I had bought from Tuan Buffora a Molucca man, whom I had engaged to go with me to the coaft of New Guinea. At fix in the evening, hauled farther off, then rowed on about a mile, and anchored in twenty three fathom, muddy ground, in Horfe Shoe Bay. K On f On Wednesday the 4th, we had light variable winds, with fo heavy rain, as penetrated the new roof of the veffel, it being too flat. To remedy this uncomfortable circ urn fiance, I raifed the middle of it, by driving a few wedges below. Not liking our road in Horfe Shoe Bay, I rowed on to a land lockt harbour in the eaflermoft of the two iflands that are called Batang Pally. It has no particular name, but lies about two miles from Tomoguy. The two Batchian officers came on board, and went back to Tomoguy in the evening, to look after their corocoro. There came alfo to pay me a vifit a Molucca man, named Abdul Wahead 5 who gave me fome information about New Guinea; telling me, he had often gone thither a trading for flaves, and that the people were not fo barbarous as he underflood they had been reprefented to me. I made him a prefent; upon which he faid, that he would have told me fo before, but never had a fair opportunity, as Tuan Hadjee and and the Batchian officers were conflantly with me; and he found by their converfation, which he had overheard, that they wanted to per-fuade me not to go thither. This was really the cafe: The Batchian officers efpecially, prompted, I fuppofe, by Tuan Hadjee, were continually telling me, that the people of New Guinea were fierce and hoflile in their manners, and even faid there were cannibals among them. On Tburfday the 5th, we had fair weather. The carpenters father, who helped to make up the quarrel I was near having with his fon at Tomoguy, came on board. He prefented me with a Loorequet of beautiful plumage, moflly green and yellow. Captain Mareca came alfo alfo with two of his fons and three fcrvants; one of them a female cook. Likewife came Tuan Buffora. We were pretty much croudcd. Tuan Hadjee joined, in a corocoro of eighteen feet keel, and eight foot beam, which I had purchafcd and fitted up to iiffift us in our intended voyage. She was manned with fourteen people. Tuan Hadjee, for his encouragement, had one half of her; and fhe was taken into the Company's fervice. Such Batchians as chofe to go in her, had pay : fome other failors were fhipped by me. The two Batchian officers came along in their corocoro, with about twelve people. We rowed from the land lockt harbour on Little Batang Pally to Manafouin Bay, where we had once lain, and where I had wifhed to haul afhore. It ljes in latitude o° 12' S. and longitude 1270 o' E. We by afloat clofe to the beach without any danger, and employed our-felves in cutting rattans, which we found at hand, to fix the outriggers of the corocoros; the fixtures of thefe embarkations being moftly made with rattans; but their timbers are tied to a kind of handle made in their plank, with a black flrong cord, called Gumaty, which a certain palm tree produces, as the coco nut tree produces coir. Of this they alfo make good ropes. At Malacca they manufacture cables of it. At night, a fon of Captain Mareca's, after I had made him fome prefents to engage him to go the voyage, went afhore, and I never faw him more. ■Friday the 6th. I named the corocoro, on board of which Tuan Hadjee chofe to remain, (for I durft not order him on board the gal- K 2 ley), 63 AVOYAGE ",775* ley), the Banguey ; and the Batchian corocoro, the Borneo. Em- Jinuary. J ° —*-^-> ployed in getting them both ready for fea. The inhabitants of the fmall part of the Molucca iflands, I had hitherto feen, were of two forts, viz. the long hair'd Moors, of a copper colour, like Malays in every refpecl j and the mopheaded Papuas. Thefe Papuas inhabit not only New Guinea, but the inland parts of raoft of the Moluccas; and thofe we faw at Tomoguy came moftly from the ifland Waygiou, which lay near it. The Moors had generally in their boats a few Papuas as flaves. The fago bread already mentioned, and which they make delicately at Batchian, is called by thofe who fpeak Malays, Roti Papua (Papua Bread). They fay the Papuas introduced the art of baking it amongft, the Mahometans, who came to the Moluccas from parts farther weft. Many of the Papuas turn Muffulmen, and then cut off their bufhy locks, or at leaf! comb them down as flraight as they can. The perfon who carried Tuan Hadjee from Gag to Tomoguy was a profelyte of this kind, and was called Hujamat, a very civil man. His fon the carpenter was a favage indeed, and wore his bufhy locks, Many of thofe Synagees who vifited me, were no better than flurdy beggars, and paid great refpecl: to Tuan Hadjee, on account of the pilgrimage he had made. He feemed to court this refpecl:, and I was careful always to fupport him in it, as we lived on the belt terms. He had his own fervants to cook for him, and attend him at Ciptain Ma-reca's, whilft I lived in an oppofite houfe. We generally drank tea or coffee once a day in company; though we fcldom eat together; and, upon upon the whole, I found him (whatever he might be in his heart) perfectly well bred, and a moft agreeable companion. From the refpecl: (hewn Tuan Hadjee, whofe anceftors were of the Serifs that came from Mecca, and gave kings to thofe parts, I could not help remarking the advantage Malfulmen priells have over others, as defcendants from their great prophet (Nabbi) Mahomet. There is fomething ftriking, efpecially to the vulgar, in the certainty of a very noble extraction ; arid io far eaft Hadjees were feldom feen. It is perhaps remarkable, that L never met with any Roman miflionary irv Malay countries*. CHAP- C H A P T E R VI. *fhe Batchian Officers rcfufe to proceed to New Guinea—Sailed without them, hut immediately put back—Converfatiou with Tuan Hadjee on the Subjecl i who agrees to go to the I/lands off the Ccajl of New Guinea, hut not to the Main Land—Account of the Wejl Coafl of Waygiou, and of the Straits of Batang Bally—Sailed for the Ijlands of Towl—Pajfed Ruib and Pulo Een—Arrived at Offak Harbour, on the North Coafl of Waygiou* TjElNG all ready for fea, in the evening of the 6th of January, Tuan Affahan came on board, and afked me whither I was going; I told him, to Tanna Papua, and thence to Balambangan, He faid, very ferioufly, as that was the cafe, he could not go with me. I told him, he might do as he pleafed ; but that he (liould not have promifed to go. We then parted. Saturday the 7th. In the morning I fired a gun as a Jignal for failing. When I had got under way, the other corocoro being left at anchor, the Banguey approached, and one Mapalla, (fon to a head man of Ceram) who belonged to her, cried out, that if the Batchian officers did not go with me, he would not. This man had been fpared to me by thofe officers, and was upon wages. By way of anfwer to what he faid, I afked, where his commander Tuan Hadjee was, as I did i775« January. C 1 1 J did not fee him ? Mapalla anfwered, he was fick. On this I faid no more, but immediately fufpeded him of being the fecret caufe of what had happened, as alfo of the defedion of the Batchian officers related yefterday. I therefore inftantly put about, being only half a mile from our former berth, and anchored clofe to the Borneo corocoro,, on board of which the two Batchian officers had remained. When we had got to an anchor, Tuan Hadjee came on board and breakfafted with me. Whilft at breakfaft, I flightly mentioned the Batchian officers having failed in their promife; but I was very cautious of touching upon what had happened that morning, waving whatever might be imputed to him, and rather laying it on the Batchian officers, to whom, I faid, we were certainly obliged, for fo far affifting us in repairing our veffel; but, as for going with us to New Guinea, it was what I had no right to expect. The contents of the Sultan of Batchian's letter to him* he always told me, were, that his officers and corocoro mould accompany me whitherfover I went, and that he (Tuan Hadjee) was to inforce thefe orders. But, replied he, what can I do, if they will not obey ? Soon after he fent a boat alongfide, as if to put on board his baggage 5 but his fervant carried her back towards the fhore; where afterwards feeing that fervant, I bid him afk his malter, if he intended to put his baggage on board 5 to which the man gave me no anfwer. I really expected, from the reluctance Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers had lately fhewn of proceeding to New Guinea, that matters w-ould turn out as they did : I was therefore on my guard, and that afternoon had a long covcrfation with Tuan Hadjee about our voyage* in fa A V O Y A -G E xns- in order to found him. The feeming indifference which I put on at January, —-v—J what had happened, led him, I believe, to imagine he might have every thing his own way; and, on his hinting that we had come a great diftance, and, were we to return, it might not be amifs; at the fame time, politely acknowledging, that I was commander, &c. I faid, that I dropt all thoughts of going to Tanna Papua, but begged of him to accompany me to fome of the iflands that lie to the N. E. of Waygiou, near which we were, and about which he had talked fo much at Balambangan; in order that we might have at leaft fome-thing to fay on our return. This pleafed him, and he confented with a good grace. But before I proceed, it may not be improper to fay fome-thing of the iflands on the well fide of Waygiou, On the weft fide of Waygiou * is a pretty deep bay, before which lie many fmall low iflands called Ranfawar, Efnowan, Binfi, Gopi, Kub-bon, Waftib, Wafwa, Wafagy, Tapopo, and Piapis. Thefe are low flat, and covered with trees to the water's edge, as moft Malay iflands are, Ranfawar and Piapis excepted. The largeft of them may not be above a mile and a half, fome only half a mils round. I have already faid Tomoguy has a hill about a hundred and fifty feet high. On an ifland three miles E. N. E. of Tomoguy, called Ranfawar, already mentioned, is a hill rather higher. Thefe iflands keeping off the weftward fwell, muft make fmooth water within them, on the coaft of Waygiou, where I am told are fome harbours; hut I did not vifit them, nor quit the ifland Tomoguy, whilft repairing there, above half an hour at a time, and that only twice.- Therefore 1 can give no account of thefe harbours, and have laid down in the chart, only the * Plate VII. bearings bearings of the iflands, from Tomoguy hill, with their computed distances. Tomoguy lies near the two iflands of Batang Pally, which are of middling height, and about eighteen miles in compafs, reckoning round them both. They form the ftrait, in which is the harbour of Manafuin, where we lay. The ftrait may be called one continued harbour, four miles long, with mud foundings throughout. Here are fome fpots of coral rocks; but they give fair warning, fhowing themfelves by their bright colour at high water, and at low water being dry. On the northern extremity of the weflermoft Batang Pally, is a flat table land. Near the other Batang Pally lies the fmall flat ifland of Waglol ;* between which and the larger ifland is a fafe and fhort paf-fage, -with good foundings. At Waglol, lives a Synagee, who honoured me with a vifit, while the veiTel was repairing at Tomoguy, and begged a prefent like the reft. One half of his coat and long drawers was clouded red, white, and yellow; the other half blue, white, and green clouded alfo, not unlike the whimfical drefTes of mafquerades; hi<> turban, made of coarfe white calico, was pinked. The Mahometan inhabitants of the Molucca iflands, are much given to cloud the In-doftan calicoes with many colours. Several Molucca men having touched at Tomoguy, I obferved, not only their turbans, but even their coats, clouded and pinked in this manner. I was told that, eaft of Gilolo, were no horfes, no horned cattle or flieep; I faw only a very few goats at Tomoguy. On the adjacent * Plate VII. L iflands »775- iflands arc many wild hogs, of which the Papua people who fold me January. , ^—i—' fago, brought me at times, fome pieces dry roalted at a flow fire. On thefe alfo are fome deer. At Tomoguy I bought three of the large crowned pigeons, very well reprefented by Dampier. The Molucca people call them Mulutu, and the Papuas Manipi. My pigeons grew tame, and eat Indian corn, called Jaggon. They finite hard with their wings, on which is a kind of horn. One of the three efcaped at Dory harbour, the other two I carried to Mindano,. where they died. Some Papua people brought me land crabs, fhaped like lobflers; their claws exactly the fame, but much flronger ^ and their bodies not fo> large; they are called Oodang. I was told they climb trees> and eat the fruit. Whilfl I lay at Tomoguy, Captain Mareca was breaking fugar canes, by putting them in a prefs, and driving wedges. The juice thus extracted is boiled into a fyrup for ufe. I filled a liquor cafe with the juice, which in a little time became good vinegar. The Mahometans here, live moflly upon fifh and fago bread. Sometimes they mix a coco nut rafped down, with the fago flour ; and, putting this into a thin Chinefe iron pan, they keep ftirring the mixture on the fire, and eat it warm. I have alfo feen, not only the Mahometans, but Papua men, eat the ordinary white fwallo (Biche de Mer) which is found almofl every where in the fand at low water. They eat it raw, cut up fmall, and mixed with fait and lime juice. I faw here a peculiar way of drawing blood; they put the rough fide of a certain leaf, about as large as a man's hand, on that part whence they want to extract blood; then, with the tongue, they lick the the upper fide of the leaf, and the under fide is prefently all over 177^ bloody. u— Here grows a particular kind of green fruit, which they eat with the areka nut, as they do the betel leaf in Indoftan: it is as long as the hollow part of a quill, and almoft as fmall: they call it, as the Malays call the betel leaf, Ciry. This fruit is very good in a curry or flew, having a fine aromatic flavour. Tomoguy lies in latitude oo° 20' S. and longitude 1270 10' E. But to return to our voyage. After I had, as before related, agreed with Tuan Hadjee, that t would not proceed to New Guinea, and that, after vifiting the iflands of Aiou and Fan, (which I underftood lay to the N. E. of Waygiou* the former in light of it) I would return to Balambangan, the two Batchian officers came very frankly to fup with me, and faid they would go very willingly to the iflands that lie off New Guinea, but not to the main land. I told them I did not mean to go to the continent ; on which we parted, they promifing to have every thing ready to fail in the morning. Saturday the 8th. At break of day, fired a gun, as a fignal for fail* ing; got under way, and rowed through the ftrait between Batang P illy and Waglol, where we found good foundings. This ftrait is about half a mile broad at the narroweft part. We had light and variable winds from the fouth and fouth eaft, fleering north eafl, along the north weft part of Waygiou. About noon came on board a canoe with fix people, who had long hair, were dreffed like Malays, L 2 and and all fpoke the Malay tongue. They belonged to a Dutch Chinefe floop, then in harbour, at a place called Ilkalio $ where is a deep ftrait (I was told) that divides the ifland of Waygiou: the houfes of Ilkalio being vifible with a glafs. They converfed much with Captain Mareca ; and at going away left him fome Cocoya mats, as a prefent. I fufpected they were very curious and inquilitive with him, though they afked me no queftions. I fhowed them, however, all manner of civility : bur, to intimate that I was not alone, the Banguey corocoro, in which Tuan Hadjee was, being then about a league to windward, I made a fignal to fpeak with her; which (he inflantly obferved, by bearing down. Tuan Hadjee had then fome little converfation with the people in the canoe. We left to the northward the ifland Ruib,* which con fills of one high hill, not peaked, and is higher than the cock's comb of Gibby Monpine. The diftance of Ruib from Waygiou, may be about fix leagues. Ten fmall iflands, five pretty high, and Ave lhaped like buttons, lie in the ftraits : I left them to the northward. In palling thofe ftraits, between Waygiou and Ruib, I could get no foundings. We faw alfo an ifland, with a table land upon it, beaiing about N. N. E. it is called Pulo Een, or Fifh Ifland j and lies to the eafl ward of Ruib. Every itland in thofe ftraits feemed to be flee p. I kept fome times within half a league of the ifland Waygiou, and found flrong tides, with a great fwell: the coaft of Waygiou appeared likewife to be bold. Ruib lies in latitude oo° 15' N. longitude 127° 10' E. In the different views I have given of Ruib and Pulo Een,-j" they cannot but be known. At fuiiiet, the extreme part of the coafl of Waygiou bore E. by S,, ;* Plate VIII. N° 1, 3, 4, 5, 6. f Plate IX. N° a. On TO NEW GUINEA. On Monday the 9th, had bat little, wind all night; the current fet us to the eaft ward. In the morning Ruib bore wefl half .fouth, feven leagues : found we had paffed, in the night, feveral iflands fhaped like buttons, near the coaft of Waygiou. cTifi i ^Jfisw to Mjir an* bid ^Ihisi odw tCnc-itO bnjjfli jiU In the morning we faw an ifland of middling height, flat atop; or rather like the flat of a plate turned bottom up.* It bore eaft by north, half north. We alio faw a remarkable peak, like a buffalo's horn., upon the ifland Waygiou, about a league in land. In the evening we had the mouth of a good looking harbour open ; it is called Offak.-f- The peak or horn above mentioned, then bore S. S. E. The wind immediately came round to the eaftward, and it looked very gloomy to the northward ; which, however, came to nothing. On Tuefday the 10th, lay to mod part of the night; fired* gun, and mowed feveral lights for the corocoros. In the morning, faw them both to the weftward; flood on to the eaftward, all three in company, until P. M. The wind coming then from the eaft and north eaft, we bore away for the harbour Offak, and got into it by five o'clock; about funfet had a great deal of rain. I am of opinion there is much rain on this ifland ; for the hills are not exceeding high, but are above what may be called middling height; and the clouds, as they pafs, often break, and diffolve into rain. Wednefday the nth. Employed in fitting our commoodies, which did not move well; alfo compleated our water. We fent our boat to Manouaran, Plate IX. N° I. t Ibid. N° 1, 3, 4. fifh fifh at the mouth of the harbour. She foon returned with nine bo-nettas. The people feemed all very well contented. Among the Batchian people, were four perfons, whom I called Mantenes, by way of civility and diftinclion ; they belonged to certain head men on the ifland Ceram, who really had the title of Mantery; and Ceram was under Batchian. I thought proper to keep thofe perfons in good humour, as well as Tuan Bobo and Tuan Affahan; therefore, I pro-mifed each of them a coat of Europe broad cloth. CHAP, CHAPTER VII. Defcription of the North Coafl of Waygiou, and of the Harbour of Offak— Pajjed Manouaran—Arrived at the Iflands of Towl—Account of them ^Sailed for the Iflands of Fan—A Gale, in which we were feparated from the two Corocoros—Obliged to bear away—Arrived at Dory Har-hour on the Coaft of New Guinea—Some Account of the Papuas there —Directions to get into the Harbour—Conjectures about Schoutens IJland\ AS I had the fatisfaction of finding all the people contented and in good humour, I took the opportunity of vifiting and fur-veying part of this fpacious harbour, whilft others were occupied, as I have faid, in fixing our rudders. At the fame time I employed four ovens on more, in baking bread from the fago flour, which I had bought at Tomoguy, in order to fave our fea ftock, confiding of three thoufand bifcuits, which I had got from Salwatty. Thefe bifcuits were hard, being well baked ; and few from that flore had been ufed. The view of fome of the hills on the lefthand, going into OfTak* harbour, is not only piclurefque from without, but from within the harbour, as they are not overloaded with wood. On the contrary, there were many clear fpots covered with grafs; and fome appearing barren, even gave pleafure, as they promifed eafe in travelling that way : for it is almofl univerfally the cafe in Malay countries, that too much wood, or too much long grafs, called Lalang, and fometimes tall reeds, Sec. * Plate X. N° i. difappoint tliiappoint the traveller : he cannot walk on, far lefs gain a fummit, not very diftant, or fo much as the brow of a hill, which, feen from on board his veiTel, perhaps appears clofe by. Several groves pointed out to me, were, I was told, fago trees : but, as I ftaid only one day, I had not time to make any excurfion. I was alfo told that the Papua inhabitants hereabouts, often lurked in fecret places, and (hot arrows at the unwary traveller; but, this my people pofiibly faid to indulge their own lazinefs, or perhaps their timidity. The north coafl of the ifland Waygiou is about fifteen leagues in length, from that fmall ifland on the north wefl extremity, and jufl under the line, to Rawak ifland and harbour, on the north eaft part of the ifland. The hill on Gibby Monpine, (a particular quarter of Waygiou) which I call the Cock's Comb, from its fhape, may be feen about twenty leagues off, and is not quite fo high as Ruib. Some 4 white fpots appear on it, as has been faid. Going along the coaft, abreaft of, and near to Piapis harbour, (which fhall be hereafter de-fcribed) we perceived a remarkable hill ;* 1 call it the Firft Peak ; and, confidering it as a cone, the angle at its vertex is a right angle. Farther on, about five leagues, is juft fuch another hill ; the angle of its top is alfo nearly a right angle; and it is the fame in fhape, v.hich is that of a fugar loaf, though fomewhat higher than the Firft Peak : I call this laft the Second Peak. It is abreaft of a fmall ifland, which, from its fnape, I name the Shoe. Onward, in an eaft direction about three leagues, rifes a very remarkable peak, which I call the Third Peak, or Buffalo's Horn. In fome attitudes its top is blunt and rounding; • Plate IX. N° 3. in in others, fharp and pointed: yet it is moftly covered with trees, and is *¥Y*> 1 1 * January. very fteep. •J Coming from the northward, the voyager mull defcry one of thefe three peeks. The middle one, as I have faid, is higher than the firft; it is alfo fomewhat higher than the third, and may be feen above twenty leagues off. To go into OfFak harbour, from the eaflward, you pafs a pyramidical naked rock,* within half a mile of the entrance on the left. The entrance is bold, and half a mile wide, with twenty fathom mud foundings in mid channel. In the entrance, you leave on the left, two iflcts, each no larger than a houfe: the larger has bufhes atop, and around both are breakers. A little farther is another illet, that joins vifibly to the main, by a reef of rocks. It will be neceffary to give all thefe a reafonable berth, as well as the point on the left. When you have paffed this point, on which is three fathom water, you find a fandy bay Hill on the left, with a ftrcam of freih water, where you may anchor in twelve fathom fand. From the entrance into the harbour, the third peak, or buffalo's horn, bears fouth half wefl, about three miles in land. Oppofite to, or almofl fouth from the entrance, are two little iflands, one fhaped like a fugar loaf, the other with a hilloc on it. At the bottom of this hilloc is a pond of frefh water, and behind, or clofe to the illet, is water five or fix fathom deep. This would be a giod * Plate IX. N° j. M place l?75« place for a lliip to heave down. The two iflands are joined by a reef January. r 1 * * * * —' of coral rocks dry at low water. On the eafl and wefl, the harbour goes far into the ifland of Waygiou ; but, as I have been told, the wefl bay goes farther. At the bottom of it, is faid to be a fmall neck, or carrying place, over which canoes may be eaflly tranfported into a large lake,* where are many iflands. On the largeft refides a great Rajah : all over it are foundings, and it communicates with the fea at the fouth part of the ifland. Captain Mareca told me there were about 100,000 inhabitants upon the ifland, that they were continually at war with one another, and that it might be about forty leagues round. Offak lies in latitude oo° Jo' N. longitude 127° 44/. Tkurjday the 12th. Got under way before dawn, having firft fired a gun, as a flgnal to the two corocoros, which did not immediately follow : at ieven in the morning, being then a good way from the harbour's mouth, we faw them in fhore. About noon had very frefti gales at N. N. W. fleered E. N. E. and paffed Ma nouaran,"!* an ifland of middling height. We foon after difcovered the higheft and largeft of the iflands Aiou. It is called by way of diftindion, I fuppofe, Aiou Baba, % Father Aiou ; and bears from Manouaran, N. E. by N. eight leagues. We had fine weather all night. The Borneo Corocoro kept far ahead. * This may be the deep bay, that in the charts is laid down on the fouth fide of the ifland. f Plate XI. N° a. % Plate IX. N° 4 and 6. Friday Attop /' * B A T V H I A INT I S i A * y. F*Paint of Sdaty v..2J. Point W, 10- to l<2 to Mi ud 9 S to to S e Lang* Ilar'l >ou?\ La/ •?<>*(>, c>0 S, / t mp'! /24; wJEk of Grem \ A It T fj Zl J\ G Zabuhat Hill and the. Skirt of Selang Island h/n„ fofivem t/ic r".tf'j'l.J'''"it /ire,i/\'et:>*f+ Scale of Milej Ihe-rkerJ'** F.w.i;m< Zo l\ ll.iyCack to Foul, Ground arid Overfish 40 Mud FJAi'is ITAJUioim jjat.oo,, o'sisr. Zcmg*/t>7.. 24 E. of Green * S//>/,////Tw//-er fitfbrMajb 11 1 Sugar Loaf Flock •20 Si 6* 2^ jgb^iw .1///,/ +i /a y Offak Babe our ZtV/s/* /M/i I I /''■ of (-re,7/ * B.A a'. Mfi.'lViw ,>/«>U of Breaker* oem ftZaw W.r/er c.r.r. !S:-tft<>»UV'7,. I.'l/i/itl: South <'/' Pido fhtttimer eid/<>d Go/vtu/o T~///car ft* P/r/V r/' Sangir Land* X<>r//t &f Sang**' pj*!li<> P/'.ntlUf E.SXt I.Li/irttt W.A'MWi I have erroneoufly called Schouten's ifland, by a low neck covered with" trees of equal height, excepting one clump in the middle of the neck, which is higher than the reft. This low neck not being,, feen when the land without it firft appeared, made me the rather believe it to-be, Schouten's ifland, and fo far confirmed the miftake : but, on finding lt> I hauled ofT. The wind then freshening, I lay to'fome hours, left f fhould over/hoot the harbour of Dory. Many years had paffed finc^» Tuan Hadjee had been there: I was therefore not furprifed at his< having been miftaken. In the morning, faw a flat point of land'bearing S. E. fix leagucv,-Found the extremity of the- land mentioned yefterday as Schouten's ifland, but which was the land of Dory, * to bear E.. by N. half N.' from, the hill I have called the Beehive : fo that the neck of land, With the low trees and the clump of trees upon it, already mentioned,' form a bay. Steered E. S. E* for a little low ifland like, a bonne?,« clofe to the fliore. About noon, it blowing hard, and there being a great fea, when we had run about twelve leagues from morning, we hauled in round this ifland, leaving it to the right. When it bore S. S. W. within lefs than piftol fhot, we had fourteen fathom water, fandy ground. It is called Yowry. We anchored behind it in three and a half fathom water, with a wooden anchor, and made a rope faft to the fhore of the ifland. We lay pretty fmooth. At night, let go °ur iron grapnel, and foon after parted from our wooden andior, the-table being cut by the rocks. I believe this to be a very good harbour farther, in -3 but I had no c'Pportunity to examine, as, it blowing very freih, I did not go afhore*. * Plate XI. N° I. Plate XII. N° i. I obferved 1 obferved a reef of rocks from the main land, projected fo far, a£ to overlap (if I may fo fay) the paffage to the north weft of the ifland Yowry j and no fwell came in that way, except a little at high water. Tuan Hadjee, Tuan Bufforo, and Tuan Aifahan, went directly afhore ; the firft was extremely affected with the bad weather, and faid very little. Tuan Affahan was a fmart feaman, and had been very ufeful in the late gale. Coming along this coaft, within four miles of the fliore, I would have often founded ; but durft not bring the veffel to. In rolling before the fea, I found the projecting gallery of great ufe j for, when it took the water, it buoyed the veffel up like an outrigger. We fhipped water over the gunnel feveral times. On this little ifland Tuan Buffora found a nutmeg tree, which, however, had no fruit. The ifland Yowry may be about three quarters of a mile in compafs. Latitude oo° 15' S. longitude 1300 45' E. Friday the 27th. At eight in the morning weighed, and flood along (hore, about E. by S. the coaft lying nearly E. S. E. the wind ftill at N. W. blowing frefh. A flat point, like that mentioned yeflerday, lies about fix or feven leagues from the ifland Yowry, in an E. S. E. direction : when we got abreaft of it, I found the bay of Dory open ; and another flat point bore from it S. by E. about five leagues, the bay being between. Here the wind moderated a little. The veffel got into what I imagined to be a ground fwell, and the fea had like to have pooped us; but we prefently got out of it, hauling round into the bay. About noon came to an anchor, in a fandy bay, clofe to the land well fheltered from the north weft and north. The wind (drawn by the ____ f. Part o/'ttitih XN.W.5Z. r. TUntnmct tntip tke Harbour //////."•/WA< C,i/i(". '/'//'< r'rrrrr/ ,r.< ///, J,/>rl 'J'Ao'-, 17r;-.' Sc,t.>/,.' the land, no doubt) then came from the fea; upon which we weighed, and flood on towards Dory harbour. Off the mouth of the bay, * before the harbour, but out of the fwell, a boat, with two Papua men, came on board, after having Converfed a good deal with our linguifls at a diftance: fatisfied we were friends, they hardened afhore, to tell, I fuppofe, the news. Soon after, many Papua Coffres came on board, and were quite eafy and familiar: all of them wore their hair bulbed out fo much round their heads, that its circumference meafured about three foot, and Where leaft, two and a half. In this they {luck their comb, confirming of four or five long diverging teeth, with which they now and then combed their frizzling locks, in a direction perpendicular from the head, as with a defign to make it more bulky. They fometimes adorned their hair with feathers. The women had only their left ear pierced, in which they wore fmall brafs rings. The hair of the women was bufhed out alfo j but not quite fo much as that of the men. As we were rowing along, one of my crowned pigeons efcaped from its cage, and flew to the woods. We anchored about four in the afternoon, clofe to one of their great houfes, which is built on pods, fixed feveral yards below low water mark; fo that the tenement is always above the water : a long flage, fupported by pofls, going from it to the land, juflat high water mark. The tenement contains many families, who live in cabins on each fide of a wide common hall, that goes through the middle of it, and has two doors, one opening to the flage, towards the land ; the other on a large flage towards the fea, fupported likewife by pofls, in rather * Plate XII. deeper ,!77;. tleepcr water than 'thofe that fupport the tenement. C ' tifis flage the —J canoes are hauled up ; and from this the boats are ready for a launch, at anv time of tide, if the Haraforas attack from the land ; if they attack by fea, the Papuas take to the woods. The married people, unmarried women, and children, live in thefe large tenements, which, as I have faid, have two doors; the one to the long narrow flage> that leads to the land; the other to the broad flage, which is over the fea, and on which they keep their boats, having outriggers on each fide. A few yards from this fea ftage, if I may fo call it, are built, in fiill deeper water, and on ftrouger polls, houfes where only bat-chelors live. This is like the cuflom of the Batta people on Sumatra, and the Idaan or Moroots on Borneo, where, I am told, the batchelors are feparated from the young women and the married people. At Dory were two large tenements of this kind, about four hundred yards from each other, and each had a houle for the batchelors, clofe by it : in one of the tenements were fourteen cabins, feven on a fide; in the other, twelve, or fix on a fide. In the common hall, I faw the women fometimes making mats, at other times forming pieces of clay into earthen pots; with a pebble in one hand, to put into it, whilft they held in the other handalfo a pebble, with which they knocked, to enlarge and fmooth it. The pots fo formed, they burnt with dry grafs, or light brulhwood. The men, in general, wore a thin fluff, that comes from the coco nut tree, and refembles a coarfe kind of cloth, tied forward round the middle, and up behind, between the thighs. The women wore, in general, coarfe blue Surat baftas, round their middle , not as a pettic -at, but tucked up behind, like the men; fo that the body and thigh were almofl naked : as boys and girls ; T O NEW GUINEA. girls go entirely. I have often obferved the women with an ax or chopping knife, fixing pofls for the flages, whilfl the men were fauntering about idle. Early in a morning I have feen the men fetting out in their boats, with two or three fox looking dogs,* for certain places to hunt the wild hog, which they call Ben : a dog they call Naf. I have frequently bought of them pieces of wild hog; which, however, I avoided carrying on board the galley, but drelfed and eat it afhore, unwilling to give offence to the crew. At anchor, I fired fome fwivel guns: the grown people did not regard this, or feem frightened, while the boys and girls ran along the flages, into the woods. Saturday the 28th. Frefh winds, with fqualls, but no rain. The clouds feemed to gather, and fettle over the mountains of Arfak, which lie fouth of this harbour: they are exceeding high j higher than any of the mountains we had hitherto feen, to the weftward, on this coafl. After paffing the Cape of Good Hope, the promontory of Dory, from a large fhip's deck, may be feen fifteen or fixteen leagues off, disjunct from New Guinea, and like an ifland. To get into Dory harbour, coafl it along, at a reafonable diflance: the flat points and the ifland Yowry will appear very plain. Having got beyond the laft Flat Point, which is near the eaflermofl: part of the promontory, you fuddenly perceive an ifland (Manafwary) : this mufl be kept on the * Among fmall iflands, the wild hogs often fwim in a firing, from one ifland to another, the hog behind leaning his fnout on the rump of the one before. The hunters then kill them with eafc. O left. left. Steer mid channel, in fourteen and fifteen fathom water, fandy ground. Farther in, and to the weftward of Manafwary,* is a fmaller ifland, called Mafmapy j which mufli alfo be left on the fame hand. When abreaft of the ifland Mafmapy, that is, when the body of it bears about fouth, you will have fourteen fathom water, fandy ground':, then look out for a funk fhoal of coral rocks, two foot deep, at low water, and at high water fix : it is bold to. Keep it alfo on the left, and fteer into the inner harbour, which will hold any number of mips", in foundings from twelve to five fathom water, muddy ground. Frefh water may be had in many places; wood every where* Dory harbour lies in latitude oo° z\' S. longitude 1-31° E. Schouten's ifland, as laid down by Dampier, bears E. S. E. from the Cape of Good Hope, and has its fouth coaft undetermined by a dotted line.-f* The coaft of New Guinea oppofite to it is undetermined alfo.— As the promontory of Dory bears from the Cape in the fame direction, and I can find no voyager has gone to the fouth of Schouten's ifland, I am apt to think it is the fame land, which time alone will fhow. Having opened the hold, about which we lately had been in great pain, we found our provifions greatly damaged. A tight cheft laved many of my piece gools. The damaged I warned directly in frefh water, and was lucky in getting tbem well dried. It often threatened to rain, but did not; unlike the climate of Waygiou, where, as has been faid, the clouds often break, and fall in ram unexpectedly. • Plate XIII. f Plate XIV. CHAP. CHAPTER VIII. Arrival of the Banguey Corocoro—Fate of the Borneo—Arrival of a Corocoro from Tidore—Molucca Method offifhing—Arrival of a Boat from an IJland called Myfory—Harbour of Manfingham—Apprehenjions of the Inhabitants of OJfy Village—Farther Account of the Papuas—StricJnefi of the Dutch—Search for the Nutmeg Tree, to no Purpofe ; find it at laft, on the IJland of Manafwary—Account of the Haroforas—Give 'up to the People of Dory the Debt they have contracted—Account of Dory —Account of the Coaft of New Guinea, Eajl of Dory Harbour, and sf the Ijlands near the Coaft—Alfo of the Places on the Coaft, Weft of Dory Harbour. Y\ 7 E had hitherto been very uneafy about the two corocoros, with F* which we parted company the twenty-fourth; but, juft after fun fet, news was brought, to our very great joy, that one of them had arrived. Tuan Hadjee immediately fet off, in our boat; and returned with the Banguey, at feven in the evening. They informed us, that the Borneo had foundered in the bad weather, the next day after fhe parted with us; but, that the Banguey, by keeping near her, had faved the people, who were twelve : they loft, however, all their cloaths, and a bafket of cloves belonging to the Sultan of batchian. The The Banguey corocoro had then twenty-five people : they hove overboard a caik of water, and many cakes of fago. By what I could learn, the Borneo carried too much fail, juft before fhe foundered y and took in a fea forward, which water-logged her The Serang being lick, I, at his requeft, fent him afhore, to the houfe of a Papua man, who, for fome Surat blue cloth, took great care of Kim. A boy brought me for fale, a fmall brown pig, which made me expect to find a breed of hogs ; but I was difappointed, this being a very young pig caught in the woods,, and fo tamed, that it eat fago flour.. Saturday the 29th. Had ftill north weft wind3, with fome rain j ihifted our berth from the lower Papua tenement to the upper, and moored in two fathom fand, with a rope to the poft of the tenement. Prefented to each, of the Batchian Manteries, as well as the two officers, a fcarlet coat, and gave each private man a frock and long drawers cf chintz, i enquired much about nutmegs among the Papua people : one man faid, he would fetch fome nutmegs from Mandamy, a place to the eaftwar.d. I made him a fmall prefent 5 but faw no more of him* Monday the 30th. Fair weather, with winds at north weft; got out our fago bread to dry ; founded part of the harbour. The Jerry Baffa (linguift) of Manfingham came on board,, and was very talkative with Mapia, the linguift I had purchafed at Yowl. The name of the former was Mambeway y and he fpoke a little broken Malay, Tuefday Tuefday the 31 ft. Variable winds at three P. M. We faw a large corocoro coming in, with Dutch colours flying. This put us on our guard ; I found fhe came from Tidore : I then muftered fifty people, nioftty armed with bows and arrows. On Wednefday the ift of February. The Noquedah (commander) of the Tidore corocoro, made me a vifit. I treated him civilly, and prefented him with a pocket compafs and a palampore or counterpane. Tburfday the 2d. Moderate weather: went a fifhing in company with the Tidore Noquedah. We tied coco nut leaves to a ftone, about a pound weight, then hooked to it the falfe flying fifh. This being let down fourteen, fifteen, or more fathoms, in deep water, the line is fuddenly pulled up with a jerk, to fever it from the leaf. The ftone goes to the bottom, while the falfe flying fifh, rifing quickly to the top, is fnapped at by albecores, bonettas, &c. However, we caught nothing. A boat, with outriggers, came pretty near us to day. Of the four men in her, two had, each about his neck, a ratan collar, to which, hung backwards, by the top, a log of wood, ihaped like a fugar loaf, and of about five or fix pound weight. They were flaves, offered to me for file. I might have had them very cheap; but, being crouded, I did not choofe to purchafe them. If I had, Tuan Hadjee and others would have expected the fame indulgence. Thefe objects of traffic had the griftlc between the noftrils pierced with a bit of tortoifefhell, and were natives of New Guinea, a good way farther eaft. Friday Friday the 3d. South from Dory, is another harbour, called Manfingham ; willing to vifit it, went to day in our boat; the Tidore Noquedah went with us. I found it a very good harbour, but the entrance rather narrow; and altogether, it is not of fo bold and fafe accefs as Dory harbour. Returning, we put afhore, at a village called Offy, on a fmall frefh water river, about five miles from where the galley lay. The houfes were buik as Malay houfes generally are : the great Papua tenements, already defcribed, being erected only on the ftrand, where is no river. I obferved the people of this village were my of us, moft of them running away. When we had breakfafled, we embarked. In the night a Papua corocoro came near us, and alarmed the large Papua tenement oppofite which we lay : the ftrangers being in fearch of their wives and children, who had taken to the woods, from the village of Olfy, when we were there, and after we had left it, afraid, not only of us, but of the Tidore people. In the boat were about twenty perfons. Tuan Hadjee wanted me to fire upon them, which 1 would by no means do : in the morning the miflake was cleared up, and they went away fatisfied. I believe the Papuas did not like the Tidore men, who, I often obferved, make free with the coco nuts from the trees. To day we fhifted our berth from a rocky {pot, on which we had driven, to a fpot of clear fand. On Saturday the 4th, variable winds, and fair weather; at noon the Tidore corocoro failed. The commander faid he was going farther eaft, to the iflands of Sao and Saba to trade. This being the firft day that TON E W GUINEA. to that the Papua people faw the new moon, they fang, and played'on a ^g** fort of drum, the bed part of the night. w-v— Sunday the jth, winds at N, W, witb fair weather; to day a fwell from the fea, having brought our grapnel home, we carried it 0111 again. Several Papua people afhore,, offered to go amongft the haraforas in order to purchafe provifions; but wanted goods to be advanced for that purpofe. I therefore advanced them ten pieces of Surat blue cloth, and one bar of iron. Monday the 6th, fine weather, no fwell, the winds moftly from the N, W. From Manfingham came a boat with fifteen Papua men, fome of them jabbered a little Malay. Iffued twenty pieces more, hlue Surat baftas for provifions. On Tuefday the 7th, fine weather: built a fhed houfe afhore, and, railed it in. Sowed a quantity of muftard feed. Near to where we built our fhed houfe, was an old tree, of winch, ^eft it fhould fall, I thought proper to cut the roots ; and fixed a rope to it, to pull it down. In falling, it toek a direction quite oppofite to the one intended, and fmafhed the fkeleton of the houfe. Tuan Hadjee, unlike a Fatalift or Predeftinarian, which Mahometans generally are, faid it was ominous, and defrred me not to build there; but I perfifted. To day I faw many of the Papua men fet off in their canoes to fetch provifions, as I was told. Part were thofe, to whom- I had advanced cloth; cloth : they left their wives and children, under the care of fome of the old men. In each boat was generally a fmall fox looking dog. Wednefday the 8th, fair weather, and foutherly winds. Arrived today, a corocoro from the ifland Myfory; with,a perfon who faid he came from the Rajah of Munfury, a portion of -that ifland. It feems he had heard of a flrange v^eifefs being at Dory. The corocoro went back in the evening, after promife to return. I prefented the mailer with one piece of baftas for himfelf3 and a bar of iron for the Rajah. Tuan Hadjee had informed me of the ifland Myfory's abounding with kalavanfas, (beans) but having no rice; alfo of its being populous ; which was now confirmed by the mailer of this boat. They told me it lay towards the N. E. one day's fail. Lofl out of our houfe, lafl night, a china jar: on my complaining to a Papua man, about the theft, it was next day put into its place. On fbur/day the 9th, fine weather, and foutherly winds. Two fmall boats returned from a place they called Wobur, with fago, plantains, &c for their families: they were therefore unwilling to difpofe of any. They alfo brought fome birds of Paradife, which I purchafed from them. To day I repaired to the large tenement, near which the veffel lay. I found the women in the common hall, making cocoya mats as ufual; alfo kneading (if I may fo term it) the clay, of which others formed the pots, with two pebble flones, as before defcribed. Two of them were humming a tune, on which I took out a german flute, and played; they were exceedingly attentive, all work flopping inflantly when I began. I then aiked one of the women to fmg, which fhe did. The February. —-j TO NEW GUINEA. ioj The air (he fung was very melodious, and of a fpecies much fuperior ^JJJ** to Mai 7 airs in general, which dwell long on a few notes, with little >—i variety of rife or fall. Giving her a fathom of blue baftas, I afked another to fing : me was bafhful, andrefufed; therefore I gave her nothing: her lo ks fpoke her vexed, as if difappointed. Prefently, fhe brou-ht a large bunch of plantains, and gave it me with a fmile,. I then prefented her with ihe remaining fathom of baftas, having had hut two pieces with me. There being many boys and girls about us, as we fat at that part of the common hall, that goes upon the outer flage of the tenement, I feparated fome of the plantains from the bunch, and distributed to the children. When I had thus given away about one half, they would not permit me to part with any more ; fo the remainder I carried on board. I could not help taking notice that the children did not match, or feem too eager to receive, but waited patiently, and modeilly accepted of what I offered, lifting their hands to their heads. The batchelors, if courting, come freely to the common hall, and fit down by their fweethearts. The old ones at a diflance, are then faid often to call out, well, are you agreed ? If they agree hefore witneffes, they kill a cock, which is procured with difficulty, and then it is a marriage. 1 heir cabins are miierably furni/hed ; a mat °r two, a fire place, an earthen pot, with perhaps a china plate or b.i-f°n, and fome fago flour. As they cook in each cabin, and have no chimney, the fmok • iflues at every part of the roof: at a diflance the ^hole roof ,'cems to fmoke. They are fond of glafs, or china beads of aU colours j both fexes wear them about the wrifl, but the women only at the left ear. w * I faw no gold ornanents worn by the Papua people ; but in the hills, pointing to-W*rd> them, tney declared that buloan, meaning gold, was to be foani P They lo5 A VOYAGE *77$- They are exceeding good archers, and fome of their arrows are fit February. v——t feet long ; the bow is generally of bamboo, and the firing of fplit ratan. They purchafe their iron tools, chopping knives, and axes, blue and red baftaes, china beads, plates, bafons, &c. from the Chinefe. The Chinefe carry back Mifoy bark, which they get to the eaflward of Dory, at a place called Warmafme, or Warapine; it is worth 30 dollars, a pecul on Java. They trade alfo in flaves, ambergreafe, fwallo, or fea Aug, tortoifefhell, fmall pearls, black loories, large red loories, birds of Paradife, and many kinds of dead birds, which the Papua men have a particular way of drying. The Dutch permit no burgher of Ternate, or Tidore, to fend a veffel to the coaft of New Guinea. They are not willing to trufl thofe burghers, while they put a juft confidence in the Chinefe; that they will not deal in nutmegs, as formerly mentioned. The Chinefe have a pafs from the Sultan of Tidore, and wear Dutch colours. To day I found our muftard well fprouted. On Friday the 10th, fine weather, and foutherly wind ; went to Manafwary ifland, which I have fometimes called Long Ifland. There was a good party of us, and we fearched for the nutmeg tree, as fome Papua men faid it grew there. We returned about funfet, without finding it. Saturday the nth. Had Hill fair weather, and eafterly winds; went again to Long Ifland, in queft of the nutmeg tree. I promifed a reward* to whoever fhould find it. Found fome trees, that the Batchian officers faid were nutmeg trees; but they had no fruit. The weather TO NEW GUINEA, weather being dry, faw on the hills many fires and fmokes, which I was told were made by the Haraforas, for purpofes of agriculture. J Pound on the ifland, clofe by the beach, a Papua burial place, rudely built of coral rock. On it was laid the wooden figure of a child, about eight years old, reprefented completely clothed. A real fcull was put imo the upper part, on which ears were cut in the wood, Sunday the 12th, fine weather, and S. E. winds; went round Manafwary ifland. To day found the variation of the compafs, by the Medium of feveral amplitudes taken afhore, to be oi° 30' E. Monday the 13th, all day long cloudy weather, with variable ^inds. This being thehrfl day of the Mahometan year, Tuan Hadjee *nd all the Mahometans had prayers afhore. In compliment to them, I fired twelve guns, fix afhore, and fix on board. After prayers, they amufed themfelves in throwing the lance, and performing the whole exercife of the fword and target. Tuan Buffora was the mofl diitin-guifhed for alertnefs. On Tuefday the 14th, fine weather, and S. E. winds; went to Manafwary ifland, with a numerous party i landed on different parts, and made the tour of it a fecond time. We law no wild hogs, but by tr*e prints of their feet, perceived plainly where they had been : within the ifland, about a quarter of a mile from where we landed, we reached a rifing ground. The ifland is about five mites in compafs,. everywhere full of trees, among which is £Opd walking, there being, no underwood. p !77S* l ebruary. On iVednefday the 15th, fine weather, with S. E. winds ; went again to Manafwary. About a mile from where we landed, found a nutmeg tree j we eagerly cut it down, and gathered about thirty or forty nuts: there were many upon it, but they were not ripe. Tuan Hadjee and all the Molucca people allured me it was the true nutmeg, but of the long kind, called Warong ; the round nutmeg, which is cultivated at Banda, being called Keyan. I prefently found many more nutmeg trees, and many young ones growing under their fliade. I picked above one hundred plants, which I put up in bafkets, with earth round them; intending to carry them to Balambangan, whither I now pro-pofed to return as faff, as poflible. Gave the reward I had promifed for finding the nutmeg tree, being five pieces of baftas. On Thurfday the 16th, the fair weather continued, with eafterly winds: faw many great fires on the mountains of Arlak. As the Papua people had not yet returned with the provifions flipulated, and I was unwilling to lofe the fair winds, that had blown fome time from the eaftward, being alfo afraid of N. W. winds returning ; againfl which it were imprudent to attempt, and impoflible to work up the coaft to Waygiou; I therefore gave up to the Dory people, the debt of thirty pieces of Surat cloth, and a bar cf iron, with which I had trlifted them : this rejoiced the old men. On Friday the 17th, had ftill eafterly winds, with fine weather. To day fome of the people found a nutmeg tree not a hundred yards from our Shed Houfe* We cut it down, but the fruit was not ripe; it was juft fuch a tree as I had found and cut down at Manafwary; and the people of Dory faid there were many fuch trees trees about the country ; at the fame time, they did not feem to know that it was an object of confequence, and regarded it no more than any wild kind of fruit, that is of no general ufe : whereas on the Planum, the coco nut, the pine apple, and the bread fruit of two forts, they fct a proper value. They allowed that to the eaflward, at a place c-illed Omberpon and Mandamy, were many nutmegs gathered, but I could not learn what was done with them, or to whom they were fold. Sometime before this, I had afked Tuan Hadjee and Tuan Bu flora, what they thought of going farther down the coaft. They both objected to it, as they likewife did to making any inland incurfion, to vilic the Haraforas houfes. The Papua people alfo did not feem willing that we fhould have any intercourfe with the Haraforas, who, I believe, are fome how kept under, or at leaft kept in ignorance by the Papuas. When I afked any of the men of Dory, why they had no gardens of plantains and kalavanfas, which two articles they were continually bringing from the Haraforas \ 1 learnt, after many interrogatories, that the Haraforas fupply them with thefe articles, and that the Papua people do not give goods for thefe neceflaries every time they fetch them; but that an ax or a chopping knife given once to a Hara-fora man, makes his lands or his labour fubjecl to an eternal tax, of fomething or other for its ufe. Sach is the value of iron ; and a little Way farther eaft, I was told they often ufed ftone axes, having no iron at all. If a Harafora lofes the inflrumcnt fo advanced to him, he is flill fubjedt to the tax; but, if he breaks it, or wears it to the back, the Papua man is obliged to give him a new one, or the tax ceafes. Tuan Hadjee, when before at Dory, had gone among the Ilarafo-™sk He faid many had long hair; but that mofl of them were Cof- fics, res, as the Papua men are. He alfo told me they built generally on trees, their houfes, to which they afcended with great agility, by a long notched flick, and often pulled their ladder after them, to prevent followers. The Papua men not inclining 1 fhould have any knowledge of the Haraforas, put me in mind of the Malays at Nattal and Tappanooly, on Sumatra, not wifhing to let Europeans have intercourfe with the Batta people, where the gum benjamin and camphire grow. Being ready to go from Dory over to the ifland of Manafwary, where I propofed to flay a day before I failed for good, and the people of the village, clofe to which I had lain, feeing our motions, 1 fuddenly perceived, what I imagined, to be a diftruft of us, as few children were to be feen about the Papua tenement that day : whereas, heretofore, they ufed to come every day on board of us, with fruit, fifh, &c. to fell. About noon, when we failed, not a man accompanied us over to Manafwary ifland. Some time after, two men came over, one of them a kind of linguift. 1 caufed to be fully explained to him, the nature of my giving up the debt, and that no body would ever call upon the men of Dory for it. At the fame time, I made him a Capitano, by giving him a frock and drawers of chintz, and firing off three guns, this being the Dutch ceremony. He returned to Dory very well pleaf-cd, and very vain of his drefs. Saturday the r 8th. Employed in getting ready for fea. Took up a good many nutmeg plants, and felled another nutmeg tree; the fruit was fuch as we had got before. Tuan Hadjee faid it would be a month or fix weeks ere tl : fruit would be fully ripe. He and the reft talked fo fo much about its being of the right fort, tho* it was long, and not round, like the Dutch nutmeg, that I no longer doubted it. About noon, our Capitano linguift; returned. With him came many boys and women, and two men from Dory, who brought us fifh, plantains, kalavahfas, occ. which were purehafcd from them as ufual $ all jealoufies being removed laft night. The promontory of Dory, the fea coaft of which extends about four* teen leagues, is of middling height: the grounds every where afcend gradually. It may be faid, like Malay countries in general, to be covered with wood ; but it differs in one refpecl: there being no underwood, it is very eafy travelling under the fhade of lofty trees. The country abounds with fmall frefh water rivulets j here and there is very good grafs, but in no large tracts, that I faw. It is very temperate, being fo near the high mountains of Arfak, where the clouds feem always to fettle, fo that it is by far the bcft country hitherto vifited oa the voyage. What I fhall now fay of the coaft of New Guinea, to the eaftward of Dory, and of the iflands off the coaft, is from the information not only of the Moodo of Aiou, but of fome of the old men at Dory. From Dory I could not fee Schoutens ifland, which I was told lay to the northward, confequently there muft be a wide paffage between it and the main; a paffage however not very obvious in the map of this coaft, accompanying Dampier's voyage in the Roebuck, in 1699.* Captain Dampier faw Schoutens ifland, and coafted its north fide, • Plate XIV. which ii2 A V O Y A G E «775- which, as I have faid, abounds with kalavanfas, and is full of inhabi- Febriury «—-J tants. In light of Myfory, which poflibly may be Schoutens ifland, lie, as I was told, the iflands Saba and Sao, in an eaft direction. Saba, by the Moodo of Aiou's account, is about as large as Gibby. From Saba and Sao are brought large red loories, alfo black ones. Farther, in a fouth eaft direction, lies the ifland of Padado, as large as Aiou Baba ; alfo, the illand of Awak, each under its particular Rajah. Still farther is Unfus,* an ifland about the fize of Gibby, it is four days fail from Sao, and near it are the fmaller iflands of Bony andj Yop. Along the coaft of New Guinea eaftward, are the countries of Oranf-wary, one day's diflance by water from Dory; Wariapy two days y Warmafline four days; Yopine five days; Mandamy fix days. Over againft Wariapy, lies the ifland of Omberpone, behind which is a harbour* Beyond Mandamy, are places on the coaft called Wopimy, Yowry, Manfuary, Murry, then Waropine, the refldence of a powerful Rajah. Oppolite Morry, fpreads a number of fmall iflands, abounding in coeo nuts and kalavanfas. Beyond Waropine appears the ifland Krudo, where iron is almoft unknown; and here prevails the cuftom of boring the nofe: the inhabitants are fometimes called Komambo. Krudo is five days fail from Sao. At Krudo, and the iflands near it, may be got much tortoifefhcll, as indeed every where on this coaft ; but it requires time to collect a quantity, and the merchant muft ad- * Unfus, poflibly Mcanfu,. mentioned by Mr. Dalrymple, in his colleftion of voyages, ?• 39* vancc vance the commodities of barter. This the Chinefe do, and are feldom cheated by the Papuas. From Waropine, above mentioned, is faid to be a long land ftretch to the head of a river, or a branch of the iea, which comes from the fouth coaft of New Guinea. I have been told that the inhabitants of Ceram carry iron and other goods up this inlet, and trade with the inhabitants of the north coafl;,. for IVliffoy bark* They are deemed alfo to fpeak different languages : but I could learn nothing of the coafl eafl of Waropine. . As to the character of the inhabitants of thofe places, eafl of where we lay, I have the greateft reafon to think it was fierce and hoflile, that they are numerous, and have a vafl many prows: at the fame time, they are faid to deal honeftly with the Chinefe, who trade with them, and advance them goods for feveral months before the returns are made. They trim and adorn their hair, but bore the nofe, and wear earings like the mop headed people of Dory. The places on the north coafl of New Guinea, wefl of Dory, are, Towcris, which is reported to have a harbour \ Warpaflary and War-rnorifwary, near the Mifpalu iflands, behind which is faid to be good anchoring. I faw them both : they are flat low iflands. Beyond Mif-palu, that is, farther wefl, is Worang; alfo Pulo Womy, which was reprefented to me at Dory, as an ifland, a little bigger than Mafmapy, and to have a harbour behind it. Then comes Pulo Ramay, and next to it Salwatty, which bounds Pitt's Strait on the fouth, and on its fouth fide, with New Guinea, forms the ftrait of Golowa, *CL The February. The above intelligence is the befl I could procure. Thofe who gave it, not having the true idea of a harbour, and fometimes thinking that place deferring the name, into which a boat of theirs could go, ex-cufe me from depending on their accounts. In the names and distances, reckoning by days, they could not fo well be miflaken; and I have the greateft rcafon to believe, they anfwered my qneflions, not only with fincerity, but as well as they could. During my flay here, Tuan BulTora daily fuppiied us with fmall fifh, like fprats, he being very expert in cafling the net: which fifh broiled, with frefh baked fago bread, and a difh of tea, were our breakfafl. We feldom ate in the middle of the day ; but had always, about noon, a difh of tea, coffee, or chocolate, and fometimes a young coco nut. At funfet we regularly boiled the pot, flewing whatever we had ; fometimes greens and roots only, but always mixed with the emulfion or milk of a full grown coco nut, rafped down. This the Malays call guly (curry): and, thank God, we were all in good health ; but we failed not to bathe daily, nor was there want of pleafant brooks. CHAP- CHAPTER IX. Departure from Dory IIarbour~—Put into Rawak Harbour for Provifions — Defcription of it —Anchor at Manouaran IJland—Put into Piapis Harbour—Defcription of it— Leave it, and row to windward, intending to anchor at Pulo Een~Find it every where rocky and Jeep—Bear away, in order to go to the Southward of Gilolo—Pafs between the Iflands of Gag and Gibby—Pafs between the Iflands of Bo and Popo— Defcription of them. T Was very glad to find, before we failed, that the people of Dory had an opportunity of being convinced, we intended them no harm j and that, by giving up the debt above mentioned, I did not ^can to entrap them, or carry them off, as is fometimes done by the Mahometans of the Moluccas, who, I was told by Tuan Hadjee, fit °ut vefTels with no other deiign. I failed in the evening, and found, when I got out of the bay, that the current fet ftrong to the weftward, againft the wind, which, from a favourable S. E. gale, had fhiftcd to the weftward* Saturday the 19th. We had fqually, thick, and rainy weather,, with wefterly winds. The veffel was fo uneafy, and pitched fo much a fhort fea, occafjoned by the windward current, that fhe made a good deal of water. I wifhed to get into port again j but the current fct us ftrongly to windward. To my great fatisfi&ion, however, came Q^2 frk T775- Fcbruarv. [77$' fair weather in the afternoon ; and we had a light breeze at N. E. the February. ° u—J current favouring us. At funfet, we were pad the promontory of Dory, and the Beehive bore fouth ; the Cape of Good Hope bore at the fame time weft, fifteen leagues. During the bad weather, I had the misfortune to have many papers wet, as the rain got almoft every where, Monday the 20th. At dawn the promontory of Dory, appearing like an ifland,* was but juft feen. We had variable winds all day, with fultry weather before noon. At noon it was cloudy, and we had no obfervation. At funfet the Cape of Good Hope bore S. S. W. In the evening we had frefti land wind at fouth j fleered N. W. the current being in our favour. In the morning of the 21 ft, found ourfelves about five leagues off fhore, and the Cape of Good Hope bearing S. E. by S. Our latitude at noon was ©o° 40' N. the Cape then bore S. E. about fixteen leagues diftant; the wind was N. E. and we fleered N. W. by W. The night being pleafant, and the water fmooth, we rowed mod part of it, the people finging as ufual. On Wednefday the 22d, in the morning the high land of New Guinea was very confpicuous, although twenty leagues diftant at the fame time we could fee Waygiou, bearing from S. W. to W. In confequence of the lofs of the Borneo corocoro, we had five of the Batchian people upon wages, and maintained in all twenty-nine * Plate XII. N° 1, perfons perfons aboard the salley, befide the crew of the Banguey corocoro, *TJJf. o J ' CtJuary, winch amounted to nineteen. I became, therefore, afraid of running '-*—f ftort of fago bread, now our only diet, except a very fmall quantity of fifh. Dory afforded us neither fowl nor goat. A little wild hog, which I got there now and then, and which I eat afhore, was all the refreshment I could procure, except fifh, greens, and fruits. I was told, that on New Guinea were no four footed animals, except hogs, dogs, and wild cats ; I faw no domeftic ones. This being our fituation, Tuan Hadjee reprefented to me, it was hard to proceed in the attempt of weathering Morty, with fo fmall a ftock of provifions; and it was dangerous to put in any where on the eafl of Gilolo, where Dutch panchallangs *nd corocoros were conflantly cruiling, as, no doubt, they had heard °f us ; and that Morty, where fago grew in abundance, had few, if any, inhabitants. He, therefore, advifed me to put into Rawak harbour, on the N. E. part of Waygiou, where provifions were certainly to be had. At the fame time he faid, I was very lucky in getting off the coafl of New Guinea, from Dory harbour, which he had always confidered as a dangerous navigation for a fmall veffel. Being fully fenfible of the juflnefs of what Tuan Hadjee faid, I immediately bore away for Rawak harbour, fleering S. W. with the wind at E. N. E. and at noon we were in oo° 10' N. latitude. Early in the afternoon we got fight of Rawak ifland, it bearing wefl eight leagues. At the fmie time faw from the deck, Abdon, one of the Aiou iflands; * rowed and failed all night for the harbour of Rawak; the people kept fin^ ,ng» as ufual, their Mangaio fong, and were refrefhed with a difh of tea. • Plate IX. N° 7. On On Tburfday the 23d, we got in about five in the morning, and found here the Moodo of Aiou, who had with him only one of his wives, with her little boy, betides fervants. We foon filled our water jars, and bought fome fago bread, from boats that came from a village called Kabory, the houfes of which were plainly to be feen, bearing S. E. by E. from where we lay. To day the winds have been moftly north eafl:. Friday the 24th. Had the winds at N. W. with fine weather. In the morning, the Moodo of Yowl, and one of the King of Tidore's officers, who was then in a boat trading for fwallo, came on board, to make me a vifit. I gave each a piece of coarfe calicoe. Afternoon* many boats from Kabory and from Wargow, which lies beyond it, came with fago bread, which I bought: I bought alfo fome raw fago. from the Moodo, afhore, where I faw many of my Aiou acquaintances. In the evening I founded all about the harbour, went in the boat through the narrow, but bold ftrait, that divides the ifland Rawak from the main; and landed at a pleafant fmall river on the main land of Waygiou, where our people had filled water. The watering place on the ifland of Rawak is a pond, not very clean, juft behind the few houfes that are there : the houfes on the land were built lowy a few built on polls, in the water, were higher. The ifland of Rawak, * which makes the harbour, lies on the N. E. part of the ifland Waygiou, about five miles E. S. E. from Manouaran 1 which ifland has been already mentioned. Rawak is of a lingular figure, the fouth part projecting towards Waygiou, in a narrow promontory, fomewhat lower than the northern part of the ifland, which * Plate X. is is high, and has a remarkable hill, covered with the anecbong tree, the heart of which is an excellent cabbage. The call: part of the iiland is alfo a narrow promontory, which I call the Dolphin's Nofe, from its fljape. A fhip from the eaflward mud keep clofer to it, than to the °PPofite more, off which runs a reef of rocks. . The channel is there above a mile broad, with good mud foundings, from fifteen to ten fa-thom, A little beyond the Dolphin's Nofe, is a good road ; and (till farther, in .five fathom, the water is very fmooth; but even there, a veffel lies open from the E. by S. half S. to the E. by N. Should too great a fea come in thence, a (hip might run out by the ftrait, keeping clofe to the ifland, which is bold, and anchor behind the ifland, in fandy ground. While I {laid here, I bought about two thoufand cakes of fago, each weighing a pound, or a pound and a quarter; fome fmaller, weighing three quarters of a pound; but it was all hard baked, and kept well. We bought alfo fome fifh, and feveral turtle. Some of ^y people, who were not Mahometans, and eat turtle, cut the meat up fmall, and flewed it in green bamboos. No goats or fowls could ^efind, Rawak ifland lies in latitude oo° 13' N. longitude 12S0 E. Saturday the 25th, Early in the morning, being ready to fail, I *°und Mapia miffing, whom I had bought of the Moodo, at Aiou : * fent afhore, to enquire about him ; but to no purpofe. I fuppofe he had met with fome old acquaintance, who had feduced him to leave me. Wc 1775- We weighed at nine in the morning, with the wind about N. E. by -^Ilj E. and went out between the iflands of Rawak and the main. About noon I anchored clofe to Manouaran, and fent the boat on fliore. They tilled fome jars with very good water, from a kind of pond or dead river, hard by the beach, whilft I lay in feven fathom, fandy ground. In that pofition, the extreme to the weftward, which I call Shoe ifland, was juft open with the weft point of Manouaran, * and the land abreaft (the higheft on Waygiou) concealed the Third Peak, or Buffalo's Horn, while the entry into Offak harbour appeared towards the weft. Rawak ifland, bearing S. E. is alfo very confpicuous. That part of Manouaran, which is next to the ifland, and where I anchored, is low, and very eafy of accefs. The weft part is fteep and rocky ; above that fteep part, is grafs, with fhaggy trees intermixed, -f- This kind of ground extends to the fummit, which is almoft flat. The whole ifland looks at a diflance like a faucer, bottom up. Afternoon we weighed, wind at N. E. During the night we lay up N. W. but made only a W. by N. courfe, as the current fet to leeward. On Sunday the 26th, had rainy fqually weather, with variable winds : found the current fet ftrong to the weftward; and, when we had an offing, it fet to the S. W. We made feveral tacks to little pur-pofe; at laft, we bore away for Piapis harbour, which I was juft abreaft of. % At that time, Pulo Een bore N. W. and I was at noon in the latitude of oo° 1 8' N. About two P. M. I got into the harbour of Piapis; and anchored in two fathoms, fandy ground, clofe to the high rocky ifland of Sipfipa. We found lying here a boat bound to Gibby; but neither houfe nor inhabitant. * Plate X. t Plate XL J Plate IX. N° 3, Plate V. On TO NEW GUINEA. Monday the 27th, fair weather, with northerly winds: weighed, and rowed up to the fouth eaft bay, and anchored at the mouth of a pleafant frem water river. Tuan BufTora was very lucky in fithing with the eaft net. On Tuefday the 28th, the wind at N. N. E. with fair weather: filled all our water jars, and got ready for fea. On Wednefday the 29th, weighed in the morning, and rowed out of the S. E. bay, but the wind blowing frefti at the harbour's mouth, we rounded the rocky promontory, and anchored in the fouth bay. It being about the change of the moon, the weather was very fqually, and unfettled. Thurfday, March the ift, wind at N. N. E. The boat I mentioned, bound to Gibby, failed. I made the Noquedah a prefent, as he knew our veffel was the fame that had been repaired at Tomoguy. After he failed, I vifited the mouth of the harbour, where I found irregular foundings, and overfalls. On Friday the 2d, hauled the corocoro afTiore, on an ifland in the S. bay, on which was a pond of frefh water. Had all day long variable winds, and a good deal of rain ; it being the time of fpring tides, we got, at low water, much kima on the coral reefs, of which we made very good curry; ftewing it with the heart of the aneebong, or cab-hage tree, which we found abundant in the woods. But I come to the defcription of Piapis harbour. R On 177?. On the N. coaft of Waygiou, lies an ifland, remarkable for a pretty cli # u. high table land, called Pulo Een, or Fifh ifland, already mentioned. It bears N. N. W. from the mouth of Piapis harbour, fifteen miles; fome rocky iflands, with low trees and bufhes upon them, and fome iflands like buttons lying between. By keeping the faid ifland in the above direction N. N. W. you cannot mifs the entrance of the harbour. The hill, * which in the defcription of the N. E. coaft of Waygiou, I have called the firft peak, may be feen far beyond Pulo Een : it is alfo a good object to fteer for, as it is near the harbour's mouth. A perpendicular rock named Sipfrpa, making the mouth of the harbour to the eaft ward, has fome ragged rocks contiguous, on which are fome withered trees and bufhes. Off the rock of Sipfipa, are three fpots of breakers, even with the water's edge, one without another. The fea generally breaks upon them; but in very fine weather, at high water, they may poflibly not fhow themfelves : it will be neceffary to give them a berth. In fleering for this vaft harbour, which has two capacious bays, keep rather towards the weft fliore, on account of the faid three fpots of breaker?, near which is a remarkable fugar loaf rock, about the bulk of a pidgeon houfe, or hay cock. Within piftol fhot, is ten fa:horn water. Having pafl it, you may, with a weflerly wind, anchor in a bay juft within it; or, proceed up what I call the fouth bay, if the wind favour. But, if the wind is fcant, you may round a certain rocky promontory, into a commodious bay, which I call the S. E. bay, at the top of which is good frefh water, and a great deal of tall ftraight timber, fit for mads. • Plate IX. N° 3. In In either bay are good mud foundings ; on Sipfipa ifland, is a pond of frefh water 5 the ifland in the fouth bay, upon which I hauled the ^—-—-» corocoro afhore to clean, has alfo a pond; and fome young fago trees grew clofe to it. In going up the fouth harbour, leave this ifland on the right, Piapis harbour lies in latitude oo° 05' N. longitude 1270 24'. On Saturday the 3d, we rowed early out of the harbour; juft without it we had foundings thirty-five fathom, muddy ground. Made fail, lying up N.N. W. wind at N. E. but made only a W. N. W. courfe. We then ftruck our mall, and, as the wind was moderate, rowed to windward, thinking to anchor at Pulo Een. * I gave to each rower, a red handkerchief for encouragement. About five in the afternoon we came up with Pulo Een, and faw many aneebong or cabbage trees growing on the iiland that lies wefl of it. Found the bottom every where rocky, and fo deep that we durft not anchor. We, therefore, put ofF again, rowing and failing all night. We lay up north, but made only a N. W. courfe, the current letting us ftrong to the fouthward. Find-mg it impoftible to get the northward of Gilolo, without going near Patany Hook, where the Dutch have conflant cruifers, either floops, panchdlangs, or corocoros, I bore away in the night. Sunday the 4m, In the morning we had the paffage between Gag and Gibby open, fhe wind being at N. N. E. Had an obfervation at noon, but it was not to be trufled : Gag bore then S. E. three leagues, and Gibby N. W. five. Got our fwivel guns loaded, and our fmall arms in order. * Plate VIII. Nc 3. R 2 Gibby Gibby* is a much larger ifland than Gag; it is alfo higher, appearing as two hills, and has many inhabitants. On Monday the rth, we fleered S. W. part of the night, then W. S. W. I expected to find the current fet to the weftward, but was miftaken. In the morning I found the current had fet us to the fouthward, and that we had tl ot in between the iflands Bo and Popo. I immediately hauled as much as I could to the weftward, but could not get to the northward of Bo. At noon were in oi° io' S. latitude. The Banguey corocoro went to a fmooth landing place, and picked up a great many excellent kimas (cockles) about the bignefs of a man's head ; nor failed to give us our fhare. At funfet we anchored in thirteen fathom water, fandy ground, clofe to a fmall ifland, with coco nut trees on it.-f* When we were at anchor, an ifland, pretty large, the top of which is like the back of a hog, bore N. W. Prefently came on board feveral boats: in one of them was the Papua man, whofe boat had formerly carried Tuan Hadjee from Gag to Tomoguy, and with whofe fon I had like to have there had a quarrel about a wooden anchor. Bought a great quantity of dried fifh, which came very feafonably, as we were badly off for any provifions, but fago bread, and a very few fpoiled fifh. By the afTiftance of the country people, we this evening * Plate VII. t Plate VIII. N° 7. filled filled moft of our water jars, intending to put immediately to fea,. as Jt?^ the wind was fair. Here I was informed that the Dutch had got notice of our having repaired at Tomoguy, The two clufters of iflands, Bo and Popo, * lie nearly in the fame parallel of latitude, oi° 17' S. the longitude of Bo is 126* 10'; of Popo, 1a6°25/. They are about five leagues afunder. Bo confifts of fix or feven iflands. When lying clofe to the fouthermoft part of the fmall ^and, near to which we anchored, the iflands of Popo (almoft tout in) bore about E. by N. Coming from the weftward, the firft of the iflands of Bo, that you meet with, is a low flat ifland, about four or five miles round j the tne fecond is an ifland fomewhat higher, with a table land, it being flat atop. The next, and largeft, is alfo highcft; and has been already mentioned : its outline, when bearing N. W. refembles a hog's back, or the roof of a long hayrick. You may anchor in fifteen fathom, fandy ground, clofe to a fmall fandy ifland, which has fome coco nut trees upon it. Farther eaftward, are two or three imall iflands, hard by that which is eaftermoft in the view. + Off the eafter-moft point, is a coral bank, with two fathom water, about two miles from the fhore. Thefe iflands, which have a good many inhabitants, can fupply Plenty of coco nuts, fait, and dried fifh. Had I ftaid till next day, * General Map; + Plate VIII. N° 7. we we might have got fome goats; but the wind being fair, I was unwilling to lofe it. The ifir.nds of Popo I-pa(Ted at fome diflance : they are higher than the iflands of Bo. To the wefl ward of the duller, but almofl contiguous to it, are about nine or ten low fmall iflands: to the eaflward, on two iflands, are two hills, which, at a diflance, look like two tea cups, bottom up. Thefe iflands are alfo faid to be well inhabited; and here refides a Rajah. chap- pub x. 'i /■:.(>' //. CHAPTER X. departure prom Bo—Contrary Winds—Anchor at an IJland near Lilio/a, and not far from Pulo Pifang ; but can get no frejh Water—Bear away for the Kanary IJlands—Find them uninhabited—Proceed to the IJland MyjU—Arrive in Ef be Harbour—Tranfaflions there—Valentine's Account of the Birds of Paradife—Account of Cloves growing on Ceram and Ouby—Strict Watch of the Dutch near A?nboyna—Arrival of a Corocoro from Tidore, belonging to the Sultan—We learn the Dutch have Jent after us to Gibby—Account of the Rajah of Salwatty—Defcription °J the IJland Goram, and fome Places on the wejl Coajl of New Guinea* from old Voyages. N Tuefday the 6th, having finifhed our bufinefs the evening of the fifth, we failed at midnight from the fouthermofl ifland of Bo, ar»d fteercd weft, with the wind at N. much rain in the morning. The fhaped like a long hayrick, then bore N. N. E. and Pulo Pifang b°re W. S. W. five leagues. At noon we had no obfervation. The current fetting ftrong to the fouthward, made me give up the hope of getting round Gilolo. Wcdnefday the 7th. Many calms and ripplings of currents. Pulo &fr«Ttg, in the morning, bore about N. N. W. Towards noon, the w*nd coming to the S. W. we hauled up N. W. Thurfday Thurfday the 8th. In the morning faw Ouby, bearing weft, and Pulo Pifang N. bv E. about fix leagues diftant. At noon we obferved the latitude to be 01* 48' S. At funfet Pulo Pifang bore N. E. by N. Friday the qth. The night being calm, we rowed to windward, at the rate of three knots an hour. By break of day, Pulo Pifang bore N. E. eight leagues ; and Pulo Lyong (an ifland near Ouby, appearing with an even outline) bore W N. W. about ten leagues. I am told, that between it and Ouby is a good paffage, which the Dutch fhips ufe. Tapiola at the fame time bore north; the water was fmooth, and many porpoifes blowing near us, Saturday the 10th. Having the wind at S. W. fteered N. N. W. and got Pulo Pifang to be^r E. N. E. the wind then came to the N. W. and blew frefh. The eoroeoro lofing much ground, we lay to for her all night; the wind then veered to the fouthward; but, on her account, we could not make fail. Sunday the 1 ith. In the night, the tide or current favouring us, we drove up under Tapiola j * but 1 durft not venture to anchor near, as it was rocky. The tides and windh were uncertain near the ifland, and I could not anchor but among 10. ks, clofe on fliore. The ifland is of fome height, but not fo high by far as Pulo Pifang ; and near it we found an eddy wind, fometimes b ow from the S. E. although the true wind was from the N. W. therefore 1 rowed towards a fmaller ifland, that bore about weft half a mile from Tapiola. This, in lhapc, refembles a cat couching; the head of the cat being the nonh extremity of the ifland. It has a fine fandy beach ; fo at noon I anchored under its * Plate VI. N° 4, 5. lec, lee, among rocks, in two fathom water, and got a rope faft afhore. We foon after parted twice from our wooden anchor; and then rode hy the grapnel, in two and a half fathom, rocky ground. Dug nine foot deep for water, clofe to a rifing ground, two hundred yards from the beach ; but it was brackifh, and not fit to drink. Monday the 12th. We lay here all night, in a very bad road. Early in the morning I fent the boat to Liliola, for water; but fhe got none, although water muft be there. The landing, however, proving fome-what difficult, I was glad they ran no rifks. The wind being ftill at N. W. and N. N. W. and the weather looking fqually, we weighed at eight A. M. intending for the Kanary iflands, near Myfol, where we were certain of finding good fhelter and refrefhments. We fleered E. by N. having frefh gales at W. N. W. The corocoro, that had got under fail at the fame time, foon difappeared ; but we faw her again in the afternoon. Steered S. E. and lay to part of the night. ' In the morning of the 13th, faw Pulo Bo, Popo, Myfol, and the Kanary iflands, all at one time; alfo Pulo Pifang almoft down. Pulo Pifang bore W. by N. about twenty leagues. Loft fight of the corocoro. Steering on, we found the Kanary iflands covered with wood; an iflet flood in the paffage, with tall trees. About noon we paffed between this Clump iflet, or Canifter, (as* I choofe to call it, from its ihape) and the largell of the Kanary iflands, which lies to the weftward of it. WTe then anchored in feven fathom, fandy ground. Plate XV. N° 1, 2. S The" 1775. March. The Canifler is about a quarter of a mile round, entirely covered with a grove of baftard pine trees, called by Malays, Arrow, fuch as are feen near Atcheen, and on the S. W. coafl of Sumatra, at the mouths of rivers. The channel is very fafe, having good foundings of feven and eight fathom, but is not above two hundred yards wide: however it is fhort. The Canifter mufl be left to the eaflward; the apparent channel to the eaftward of it being full of rocks, and impaffa-bie, but by boats. We found the Canifter to lie in oi° 45' north latitude, and longitude 1260 40' ; fighted our grapnel, at the turn of the tide, which now was flood, and fet towards that iflet, or to the northward. I thought of flaying amongft thefe iflands until the turn of the mon-foon, but was rather afraid of the flrong tides. Here were no inhabitants; confequently I could get no provifions. Tuan Hadjee, and the Batchian officers, ftrongly advifed me to fleer for the harbour of Ef-be, on Mylol ifland, which had a harbour behind it; and all of them had been there. I took their advice, as I had only one iron grapnel to truft.to, and found that, among the Kanary iflands, was no depending on wooden anchors, in fandy ground, with a current of any ftrength. 1 therefore weighed early in the morning, of the 14th, the tide fetting flrong with us. The Kanary ifland to the weftward of the Canifler (which confidered as one, proves the largeft of them all) is I believe, divided into feveral rflands, by narrow deep ftraits, lined generally with mangrove trees, and coral rocks. The tide being with us, we foon came r/tv".J Art dLrf*., Jan*.**?? //Jp came to the weft point of Myfol, which from its (hape I name the Dolphin's Nofe. It lies in latitude of 2° fouth, and about fifteen miles S. S. E. of the Canifter. Here the ifland Myfol is of middling height, with a pretty bold coaft; farther down towards Ef-be ifland, near the fhore, are fome rocks and fmall iflands, without which one rnuft fteer. To one parcel of thofe rocks I have given the name of Cat and Kittens. Another lingle rock I have called the Sloop Rock, being like a floop under fail. Onward, about four miles fliort of Ef-be Ifland, is a hill, which I call from like reafon, the Beehive: it is but a little way from the fea fide. The ifland Ef-be cannot well be paffed unperceived, by the picturesque views of certain iflets that lie oppo-fite. The moft particular is a fmall ifland I call the Crown, which muft be kept on the right hand, and bears from the weft part of Ef-be, where is the entrance into the harbour, W. by S. four miles: keep m^e iflands X and Y * in one, which is the leading crofs mark direction into the harbour. Entering, you leave in the paffage, a fhaggy fmall ifland on the left, with a reef that runs off it. Borrow upon Ef-be ifland, keeping the lead a going: at the entrance the channel is about a quarter of a mile broad, with twelve and fourteen fathom water. About noon, in running down the coaft of Myfol, it hlew fo hard, that I was once obliged to lie to, for a couple of hours, *ith a fair wind. Juft before it was dark, we got into Ef-be harbour, and found a very hollow ground fwell in the paffage in twelve fathom ; but it did not break. We had not feen the corocoro fince the twelfth, which made us imagine fhe had ftopt fomewhere, to get turtle eggs. * Plate XV. N° 4; T/jurfday 132 A VOYAGE T77?' Thurfday the 16th. In the morning Ifrred three guns, as a compK-u—j rnent to Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers,—I knew the more honour! paid them, I fhould be the more regarded by the country people 3 and I underflood that many here had intercourfe with Ceram, and poflibly with Amboyna. Willing to fee Ef-be, I went afhore with a few people, and foon returned. I found it to contain twelve houfes. P, M. we had violent fqualls and much rain, with the wind at W. N. W. I could perceive a great fea at the entrance of the harbour. Friday the 17th. To day early, moved nigher Ef-be village, and anchored clofe to a fmall iflet. About nine A. M. came on board a perfon, who called himfelf the fecretaris,* and two others, feemingly men of rank; each came in a feparate boat, tho' all arrived on board together. They drank tea, and flaid about an hour. They told me that the governor of Bahda had fent two months before to Linty (from which place they came, it being about four miles off) defiring news of the Englifh vefTels which he underflood to be in thofe leas; but that they could give him little fatisfaclion, having only heard it rumoured that fome Errglifh vefTels were near Tomoguy and Waygiou. Yet they added, what is not unlikely, that many Englifh mips coaft the north of Ceram, fleering eafl for Pitt's Strait, I fuppofe; and that feveral had put into a place called Savay, on the north coall of Ceram, to get water. I made them all prefents, and faluted them with three guns at their departure. In the night, we had hard fqualls and much rain. * He had been employed by the Dutch as a jerrytulis or writer. Saturday Saturday the i8th. After a very bad night, very fine weather. Dried our fago bread, part of which had fuffered from the rain. On the 19th, fine weather, and very little wind. Tuan Hadjee Went afhore to Ef-be; faluted him with three guns : he foon returned on board. Monday the 50th. Fair weather and little wind: went to Linty about four miles orf, with Tuan Hadjee and Tuan Bobo ; Tuan BufTora and the other Batchian officer being in the corocoro. Linty is a village confiding of about thirteen houfes, many of them built on pofls in the Water. We dined with the gentlemen who had vifited us on the 16th. They entertained us very genteelly. After dinner I went up a rifing ground to a Mahometan tomb, built of flone and mortar, and whitewashed; whence I faw many rocky iflands that lie on this part of the coaft of Myfol, abreaft of Ef-be harbour, and extending to abreaft of this village of Linty ; the farther! about eight or ten miles off. They are not low flat iflands, but fteep and rocky, fome with bold forelands, others with hummocs,* as in the view, there being twelve or fourteen in all, and (feemingly) paifages between them. Tuan Hadjee being with his friends (to whom he was liberal in making prefents of broad cloth, 6cc. which I had advanced him on account of pny for his f people) chofe to flay all night, as did alfo Tuan Bobo and Tuan Buffora. I returned on board in the evening, with a black loory (the only one I ever faw) which I had purchafed; alfo fome dead • * Plate XV. t My mind was more ateafe than it had been for fome time, when I had parted vvitk various piece goods to Tuan Hadjee. The crew, if ili difpofed, had lefs temptation. birds ipi: birds of paradife with their feet on. The black loory foon died. At March. r * l»»v—«j Linty, I learnt from the gentlemen who had entertained us, that the * birds of paradife come at certain feafons-, in flocks, from the eaftward, or from New Guinea; that, fettling upon trees, they are caught with bird lime, then their bodies are dried with the feathers on, as we fee them in Europe. Here follows Valentine's account of the birds of paradife.* The Portuguefe firft found thefe birds on the ifland of Gilolo, the Papua iflands, and on New Guinea; and they were known by the name of paffaros da Jol, i. e. birds of the fun. The inhabitants of Ternate call them rnanuco dewata, the bird of God, whence the name of rnanuco diata is derived, ufed by fome naturalifts, (Edwards f. 110.—Margrav. Brafil. 207—Rai. Syn. av. 21. n. 7.—Briflf. av. 2. p. 130. feq, and Mr. de Buffon himfelf adopts the name of manucode). Fabulous accounts mentioned that this bird had no legs; and was conftantly on the wing, in the air, on which it lived : in confirmation of which, the legs of thefe birds were cut off, when offered to fde. But the inhabitants of Aroo, who refort yearly to Banda, undeceived the Dutch, and freed them from thefe prejudices. Another reafon for cutting off the legs is, that the birds are found to be more eafily preferved without them; befide, that the Moors wanted the birds without legs, in order to put them in their mock fights, on their helmets, as ornaments. The inhabitants of Aroo, however, have brought the birds with legs thefe feventy or eighty years; and Pigqfetta, ihipmate of Ferdinand Magelhaens, proved about the year 1525, an eye witnefs, that they were net without legs. However, the peculiar • Vol, III. p. 306, 3i3* length length and ftructure of their fcapular feathers, hinders them from feting in high winds, on trees; and, when they are thrown on the ground by thofe winds, they cannot, of themfelves, get again on the wing, *f taken by the natives, they are immediately killed, as their food is n°t known, and as they defend themfelves with amazing courage and fef mid able bills. There are about fix fpecies of birds of Paradife, tamely: I* The great bird of Paradife from Aroo. 2. The little bird of Paradife from Papua. 3, 4. Two different birds of Paradife* which are black, 5* The white bird of Paradife. 6\ The unknown black bird of Paradife. 7* And the little king's bird, which may rank among them. U The largeft bird of Paradife, is commonly two foot four inches in length. The head is fmall, the bill hard and long, of a pale colour, ^he head, and back of the neck, is lemon coloured, about its little eyes black 3 about the neck the bird is of the brightefl gloify emerald green, and foft like velvet; as is the brcaft, which is black, or wolf-coloured, (gris de loup, wolfs-geel). The wings are large and Cftefnut. The back part of the body is covered with long, flraight, Harrow feathers, of a pale brown colour, fimilar to the plumes of the °ftnch. Thefe feathers are fpread, when the bird is on the wing; Wnich is the caufe, that he can keep very long in the air. On both fides of the belly are two tufts of fliff and fhorter feathers, of a S°lden yellow, and mining. From the rump, proceed two long fliff ^afts, which are feathered on their extremities. Several other birds of thefe I36 A VOYAGE March' tnefe countries have thofe long feathers, for inftance, the Amboyna *—v—^ arrow tail (Pylftaart), the king fifher, or Sariwak, and one fort of the perrokeets from Papua. Its fize is not much above that of a blackbird-The legs are low, with four ftrong toes. The Ternate people c*dl them Burong Papua or Papua birds, fometimes Manuco dewata, and likewife SoffuoT Sioffu. The Amboyna natives call them Manu-key-aroo, the bird of the iflands, Key and Aroo ; becaufe the natives of the two laft iflands bring them for fale to Banda and Amboyna. At Aroo the people call them Fanaan. Properly thefe birds are not found in Key* which is fifty Dutch miles eaft of Banda; but they are found at the Aroo iflands, (lying fifteen Dutch miles farther eaft than Key) during the weflerly or dry monfoon; and they return to New Guinea, as foon as the eafterly or wet monfoon fets in. They come always in a flock of thirty or forty, and are led by a bird,' which the inhabitants of Aroo call the King, diftincl from the little kings bird. This leader is black, with red fpots, and conftantly flies higher than the reft of the flock, which never forfake him, but fettle as foon as he fettles : a circumfhnce which becomes their ruin, when their king lights on the ground; whence they are not able to rife, on account of the Angular flructure and difpofition of their plumage. They are likewife unable to fly with the wind, which would ruin their loofe plumage; but take their flight conftantly againft it, cautious not to venture out in hard blowing weather, a ftrong gale frequently obliging them to come to the ground. During their flight, they cry like ftarling?. Their note, however, approaches more to the croaking of ravens; which is heard very plainly when they are in diftrefs, from a frefh gale blowing in the back of their plumage. In Aroo, thefe birds fettle on the higheft trees; efpecially on a fpecies of fmafl leaved leaved Waringa trees, that bear red berries, on which they chiefly O ' n nT March. live. (Ficus Benjamina ? Hort. Malab. III. f. 55. Rumph. Amboin. 1—*—* III. f. 90.) The natives catch them with birdlime, and in noofes, or (hoot them with blunt arrows; but, though fome are Hill alive, when they fall into their hands, the catchers kill them immediately; and often cut their legs off, draw the entrails, dry and fumigate them with fulphur or fmoke only, and fell them at Banda for half a rix-dollar; whereas, at Aroo, one of thefe birds may be bought for a fpike nail, or a piece of old iron. The Dutch (hips, voyaging between New Guinea and Aroo, (which are at the diflance of eighteen or twenty Dutch miles) frequently fee flocks of birds of Paradife flying from the one land to the other, againfl the wind. In cafe the birds find the wind become too powerful, they fly flraight up into the air, till they reach the region, where the effecls of the wind are not fo flrongly felt; and then continue their flight. The Moors ufe thefe birds as ornamental crefts on their helmets, in war, and in their various mock fights. Sometimes they tie a bird, or part of it, to their fwords. During the eafl monfoon, the tails of the birds are moulted ; and, for four months of the weilern monfoon, they have tails, according to the teflimony of the people of Aroo. 2. The fmaller bird of Paradife from Papua, is about twenty inches *°ng. His beak is lead coloured, and paler at the point. The eyes final!, and enclofed in black about the neck : he is green like an emerald, The head and back of the neck are of a dirty yellow, the back of a grey-'fiS yellow j the breafl and belly of a dufky colour; the wings fmall, *nd chefnut coloured. The long plumage is about a foot in length, and Paler than in the larger fpecies; as in general the colours of this fmall T bird bird are lefs bright. The two long feathers of the tail are conftantly thrown away by the natives. This is in all other refpfccts like the greater fort: they follow likewife a king or leader 5 who is, however, blacker, with a purplilh eaft, and finer in colour than the reft j though this bird is alfo different from the 3d and 4th black fpecies. The Papuas of Mejfowal relate, that thefe birds do not migrate, but make their nefts on the higheft trees, where they are found by the Alfoo-ries. The neck and bill are longer in the male, than in the female. In Ternate and Tidore, this bird is called Toff'u or Boorong Papuwa, the bird of Papua : the Papuas call it Shag or Shague: Samaleik is the name given it by the people on Eaft Ceram ; and in the ifland Serghile, in New Guinea, its name is Tfoakke. Formerly this bird was thought to be found on Gilolo or Halamaherat and the neighbouring iflands, to the fouth and S. E. but at this day it is known to be found only on the Papua iflands. Thefe iflands extend from the fouth end of Gilolo, and the north coaft of Ceram, to the weft end of New Guinea. The largeft of them are, the ifland of Meffoiv.d (which lies to the north of Ceram), and Salawatti or Salawat, whofe fituation is neareft to Serghile (an ifland or diftricl: of New Guinea) which, in the old Portuguefe charts, is wrongly called Ceram, and feparated from New Guinea. They rooft on the higheft trees of the mountainous part, whence they iire killed with blunt arrows, by the natives of Meffbwal. Others fay, the natives infeel: with coccu-li indici the water which the birds are to drink ; and that, fo ftupe-fied, they are caught with the hand. The birds love to feed on the fruit of the Tfoampedceh tree, which they pierce with their hills, and out of which they extracf. the kernel. Some fay, thefe birds finding themfelves weak through age, foar ftraight towards the fun, till they they are tired, and fall dead to the ground. The natives draw the entrails, fear the birds with a hot iron, and put them in a tube of bamboo for prefervation. 3. and 4. The large black bird of paradife is brought without wings or legs for fale ; fo that of this fpecies it is difficult to give an exa'ct. defcription. Its figure, when fluffed, is narrow and round, but flretched in length to the extent of four fpans. The plumage on the neck, head, and belly, is black and velvet like, with a hue of purple and gold, which appears very flrong. The bill is blackifh, and one inch in length. On botli fides are two bunches of feathers, which have the appearance of wings, although they be very different; the wings being cut off by the natives. This plumage is foft, broad, limilar to peacocks feathers, with a glorious glofs, and greeniih hue, and all bent upwards; which Valentyn thinks occafioned by the birds being kept in hollow bamboo reeds. The feathers of the tail are of unequal length ; thofe next to the belly are narrow, like hair; the two upper mod are much longer, and pointed; thofe immediately under them, are above a fpan and a half longer than the upper ones: they are fliff, on both fides fringed with a plumage, like hair; black above, but gloffy below. Birds of this kind are brought from no other place, than that part of New Guinea called Serghile; its inhabitants carrying them to Salawat, in hollow tubes of bamboo, dried upon a round long flick, in the fmoke, and felling them for fmall hatchets or coarfe cloth. The Papuas call this fpecies Shag-awa, and likewife the birds of Paradife of Serghile : in Ternate and Tidore it is known by the name of Sojfho-kokotoo— the black bird of Paradife. Serghile is the northermoil part of New Guinea, tapering to a point, immediately behind, or to the eafl- T 2 ward s 140 A V O Y A G E '77?- ward of Gilolo, and the Papua iflands; fo that the point trends north-March. * u.p*y—mJ erly. 4. Befides the large black bird of Paradife, there is flill another fort, whofe plumage is equal in length, but thinner in body, black above, and without any remarkable glofs; not having thofe fliining peacock feathers, which are found on the greater fpecies. This wants likewifc the three long pointed feathers of the tail, belonging to the larger black fpecies of the bird of Paradife. The Alfoories, or inhabitants of the mountains in Mejfbwal, moot thofe birds, and fell them to the people of Tidore. 5. The white bird of Paradife is the moll: rare, having two fpecies ^ one quite white, and the other black and white. The firft fort is very rare, and in form like the bird of Paradife from Papua. The fecond has the forepart black, and the back part white ; with twelve crooked wiry fhafts, which are almofl naked, though in fome places covered with hairs. This fpecies is very fcarce, and only got by means of the people of Tidore, fince it is found on the Papua iflands; efpecially on Waygehoo : * called alfo Wadjoo or Wardjoo. Others are of opinion, that it is brought thither from Serghile, on New Guinea. 6. In the year 1689, a new fpecies of the black bird of Paradife was feen in Amboyna, carried hither from Mejfowal, only one foot in length, with a fine purple hue, a fmall head, and flraight bill. As on the other birds of Paradife, on its back, near the wings, are feathers of * Waygiou.-On Myfol, befides the common bird of paradife with feet, I got a black bird, with a very long tail, and without wings ; alfo, fome fmall birds, with wiry fhafts in their tails, and a mod beautiful plumage: they are in the Mufcum of Lady James, a purple a purple and blue colour; but under the wings and over all the belly* they are yellow coloured, as in the common fort: on the back of the neck they are moufe coloured, mixed with green. It is remarkable in this fpecies, that there are before the wings two roundifh tufts of feathers, which are green edged, and may be moved at pleafure, by the bird, like wings. Inftead of tail, he has twelve or thirteen black naked wirelike fhafts, hanging promifcuoufly like feathers. His ftrong legs have fharp claws : his head is remarkably fmall; the eyes are like wife fmall, and furrounded by black. 7. The laft fpecies is the Kings Bird-, fome reckon it among the birds of paradife; but, according to Valentyn, it is entirely different. The late Linneus, as well as Count Buffon, reckon the King's bird among the birds of paradife; as it has, in general, all the characters of the bill, and the plumage common to all the kind, known by the name of the bird of paradife. This bird is about feven inches long, and fomewhat larger than a tit-moufe. Its head and eyes are fmall, the bill ftraight, the eyes included in circles of black plumage; the crown of the head is fire coloured, the back of the neck blood coloured, the neck and breafl of a chefnut colour, with a dark ring of the brighteft emerald green. Its wings are in proportion ftrong, and the quill feathers dark; with red fhining plumes, fpots, and ftripes. The tail is ftraight, fhort, and brown. Two long, naked, black fliafts project from the rump, at leaft, a hand breadth beyond the tail; having at their extremities, femilunar, twifted plumage, of the moft glaring green colour above, and dufky below. The belly is white and green fprinkled fprinkied, and on each fide is a tuft of long plumage, feathered with a broad margin ; being on one fide green, and on the other dufky. The back is blood red and brown, finning like filk. The legs are in fize like thofe of a lark ; having three fore toe«, and one back toe. This bird aflbciates not with any other of the birds of paradife ; but flits folitary from bum to bufh, wherever he fees red berries, without ever getting on tali trees. I ■ At Aroo the bird is called JVowi, Wowi; in the Papua iflands Sop-cIo~o ; and by the Dutch Kings Bird. It is chiefly brought from Aroo Sopclo-o ; and efpecially from Wodjir, a well known village there. The people of Aroo do not know its ncft; but fuppofe it to come over from New Guinea, where it breeds ; and flays at Aroo only during the weflern or dry monfoon. It is taken in flings of gumatiy; or, with birdlime, prepared from the juice offukkom (breadfruit, artocarpus com* munis. Forft. Nov. Gen.) then cleared and dried ; and fold at Banda. It is ufed alfo as ornament by the natives of Aroo, on their helmets, in their mock fights, or games of Tohakalil. Thus far Valentyn, as translated by Dr. Foriler ; who favored me alfo with the following remarks : \{ Mr. de Bnffon, or rather his friend Mr. Gueneau de Montbeil-" lard, gives an account of fix birds of paradife in his Hiftoire Natu-M relle des Oifeaux. torn. III. edit, in 4to. torn. v. p. 207---238. tab. M xii and xiii, and in the planches enluminees, n. 254. 496, 631, *' 632, 633, 6343 as does Mr. Sonnerat, in his voyage a la Nou-" velle Guinee. The firft named IVifeau de Paradis, is the fame , which /.>/////(/ Mil/H'/hWtti // , /'/' Mi'riy near Gifofo /'r aa tk* Aid ' ;U> ?>'rp). which is called the great bird of paradife, by Valentyn: Linneus's paradifea u apoda. The fecond is the manucode, which is Valentyn's little kings *' bird, or Linneus's paradfea regia. The third is the magnifique or ma-** nucode a bouquets*, and has fome reference to the little bird of paradife u in Valentyn, though I think there is ftill a great difference between " them. The fourth is the juperbe or the manucode noir. The bird u reprefented in the planches enluminees, is either a young bird, or ""one moulting, or perhaps a female: for the. large black bird of u paradife of Valentyn, is faid to have fome long fhafts in his tail j. <{ and Mr. Gueneau de Montb:illard fuppofes that the fpecimen in *' the Paris cabinet has by fome accident loft thofe long plumes. The V fifth is the jifilet ou manucode c fix file to. I fliould almoft be tempted '* to fuppofe that Valentyn's fmall black bird of.paradife, is this very fpecies, but that the fpecimens feen by Valentyn, had been deprived " of the three long feathers on each fide of the head,, either by acci-' dent, or purpofely by the natives. The fixth bird mentioned in I the Hiftoire Naturelle des Oifeaux, is the Calybe, which feems t> ■ be an obfciue fpecies, fince the fpecimen is very imperiled, from 1 which the defcription is made j and I have good reafons for fufpcclin^ ! that it has likewife loft fome long plumes off the tail. Upon the f whole, it muft be obferved, that-Papua and New Guinea arc rouu -\ tries, which, when fearched by an able naturalift, will enrich fcieme ' with many new and elegant objects. The birds of paradife there-' fore living in a country very little frequented by Europeans, it 1 has not b:en hitherto poflible to procure more accurate accounts of ! thofe beautiful and curious birds; and it is hoped that this. however * imperfect account, will be acceptable to the lovers of natural hif- tory, till fomething more perfect can be obtained," During my flay at Myfol, it was natural for me to afk about the clove and nutmeg. I was aflured that neither was produced on that ifland; but that cloves grew on fome part of Ceram, the high mountains of which were to day plainly to be feen; that the clove grew alfo on the ifland of Ouby, which we had more than once been in fight of; and that on Ouby lived many runaway Haves and others, from Ternate, and elfewhere, who would have no communication with Grangers, except fome Buggefs prows whom they could trufh and to whom they were faid to fell cloves, the produce of the ifland. This account of Ouby agreed with that I had received from Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers; Ouby being claimed by Batchian : but the Sultan makes no farther ufe of it, than fiihing for pearls on its coafls, where no doubt any flranger may do the fame. The Dutch have a fmall fort on the wefl fide of Ouby, and keep there fafl failing corocoros always ready, to carry advice of whatever happens remarkable. When I was plying for many days, as has been related, off Pulo Pifang, I afked Tuan Hadjee's opinion about flanding on with our flarboard tacks, and fetching Ouby, where, under the lee of the ifland, we could row up along fhore. His anfwer was, that we fhould certainly be difcovered, that advice would be inflantly fent to Amboyna, and the ifland Bouro, by fmall prows, and then we fhould be way-laid by armed corocoros, of which Amboyna always keeps many in readinefs. Here, in Ef-be harbour, we were not above fifty leagues from Amboyna $ but we trufled to the fidelity of thofe we were a-mongfl, that no advice of us would be fent to the Dutch, to whom they did not feem to be warmly affected, as they informed us of many feverides, and even robberies committed by their cruifing panchallangs and TO NEW GUINEA. and corocoros j nor concealed the Papua people offending in their turn, with their bows and arrows. In March and April, the Papuas of New Guinea and Salwatty, are apt to affemble in great numbers; and make war on Gilolo, Ceram, Amboyna, Amblou, and as far as Xulla Beffy. About the year 1765, the Papuas plundered the ifland of Amblou, near Bouro, and carried off many of the inhabitants. Tuefday the 21ft. Southerly winds ; Tuan Hadjee not yet returned, Wednefday the 22d. In the morning Tuan Haqjee came on board; we failed this afternoon, and met juft without the harbour's mouth, the Banguey corocoro, with whom we had parted company ; put back4 hauled her afhore, and breamed her bottom that night. Tburfday the 23d. Fine weather; fent to the mainland of Myfol for ratans to the corocoro; fhe wanting fome repairs in her outriggers, 6cc, Friday the 24th. Rainy weather, and wefterly winds 5 a corocoro appeared in the evening with one of the Rajahs of Myfol on board. Next day, Saturday the 25.'./' 'i'.ii i9*n baa tnooii|oiit zi.'j kjLUl av/ Next morning, Tuefday the 28th, I received the Enfign on fhore, near to which we lay, and faluted him with three guns. The Enfign told me the Dutch had fent to Gilolo a floop witli Europeans, in cjuefl of us-. Wednefday the 29th. The Gogo (an officer fo called) came on board m a corocoro. I faluted him with one gun, and made him a prefent. Thefe two days, the wind has been foutherly, with fqualry weather and rain. Thurfday the 30th. Having repaired the corocoro, we launched her. The two Batchian officers and Tuan Buflbra have now been three days amnfing themfelves at Linty. Eaflerly winds : which made me willing to be gone. * Another manu/a&ure of Swat, Friday Friday the 3lit. The Tidore enfign, who yefterday had gone to Linty, returned. I prefented him with a Palampore and a hundred •flints-; nor failed to fend by him a handfome prefent to his mailer. About ten in the forenoon we were all ready to fail. This morning Tuan Hadjee was vifited by the confbrt of the Rajah ofSalwatty, whofe fiufband had lately been circumvented by the Dutch, and fent to the Cape of Good Hope. I alfo paid my refpects to the lady, and made her a prefent. She was a well-looking woman, and had three female attendants. She prefented Tuan Hadjee with a fmall corocoro; and from him I learnt the following account of her lord. Some time about the year 1770, a number of Papua boats from New Guinea, the iflands Aroo, Salwatty, and Myfol, near the time of the vernal equinox, when the feas are generally fmooth, atTembled, to" the number of more than a hundred, and failed up the ftrait of Pa-tientia, which divides Batchian from Gilolo. They committed no hoflilities ; but the Dutch, apprehensive of what they might do, fent to them, and made the chiefs prefents of cloth, &c. upon which they difperfed ; and, after flfhing a few days, and hunting in the woods, they went home. However, the Rajah of Salwatty flaid behind; but neither he, nor any of his people, did any rnifchief. The Dutch, willing to get the Rajah into their power, fell on the following flratagem. 1 hey lent a meffenger to him with a paper, figned and fealed by the governor of Ternate, telling hini) it was a pardon and remiffion of his falla (offence) for having come with an armed force into the Dutch territories 3 and that he, in particular, * U 2 was was more lucky than the other Papua chiefs, who had returned horrr* without fuch a formal absolution. At the fame time, he was invited, to come and fee Ternate, where the governor would do him all kind of honour fuitablc to his rank j and in cafe he fhould fancy any thing in the Company's warehoufes, he had a bag of dollars prefented him. This was the bait. The Corfrc chief, feniible the dollars could buy him nothing in his own country, whither he certainly might have carried them, and having heard of the fine things to be bought from the Dutch at Ternate, could not refift the temptation of laying out money, got unexpectedly, and for nothing. He therefore confenting> went, accompanied by ten or twelve people into the fort, and waited on the governor, who mowed him civility and refpect. He then laid out his dollars. Prefently a guard was turned out; and they thought themfelves fo fure of their prifoner, that they did not even fhut the gates. When it was announced to him he mufl furrender, he whifpered his people, (who were ready to mangamo (run a imtck) upon the occafion, to fave their matter, or fell their lives dear), not to flir in his defence, but to lave themfelves; which, while the Rajah was delivering up his crefs, (dagger) they immediately did ; and, running out of the fort, got on board their corocoro, and efcaped. The Rajah is now prifoner at the Cape. PofTibly the Dutch allowed his people to get away. Before 1 leave the harbour, it may not be amifs to give an account of what I could learn of the wefl coaft of New Guinea from the befl information. The The ifland of Goram is faid to have thirteen mofques, and is fituatcd ab°ut a clay's (ail E by N. of Banda. Contiguous is a fmall ifland CaUed Salwak, between which and Goram is laid to be a harbour. N. E. of Goram, one day's fail, is Wonim. In Keytz's voyage to Auftra-Jafia, mention is made of On in,, which I take to be Wonim, being twenty leagues N. E. of Goram. There is alfo mention made of P^ces called Afs, Eifi, Kubiay, Adi, Caras. Keytz procured a liiv-g*ft at Goram. In Venk's voyage, of the year 1663, Onin is mif» taken for a man's name. Venk names, right or wrong, a place called Kumaky, on the well: coafl of New Guinea, The ftrait, between New Guinea and Salwatty, is called Golowa. The people at Ef-be told me, that a day's fail fouth of Wonim, a gulph ftretched far into the land of New Guinea, where the tides run Very ftrong ; that at the top of this gulph, lay two places, one called Euntunan, the other Lufurajah : from the latter, they faid a road crofTed New Guinea, to the oppofite, or north fhore, whence Miffoy bark * was tranfported. Near the mouth of this gulph, is a harbour, named Bury. Beyond **> or to the fouthward of it, is Kabfay, Lefkayay, Warandamo, Laka-maro, and beyond that Habfy, where are faid to be people who wear *arge turbans, and wide fleeves. -f * This docs not agree with the fuppofttion, thit New Guinea is divided into ifland *s m many charts it appears, t It is not impoffible that a colony of Arabs may have failed this way, in former ays, and that thefe may be their pofterity. Commodore A V O T A G E Commodore Watfon, in the Revenge frigate, not many years ago, failed along the wefl coafl of New Guinea, Near Wonim, are two iflands, Balamafully, and Galapy. The harbour of Ef-be, lies in latitude of 2» 12'S. and longitude 127°, it is perfectly land locked. Frefh water is very acceffible on the ifland, or may be had in a little river on the main land of Myfol, where I found, two miles up, feveral fmall canoes, belonging probably to the Haraforas : for I faw neither houfes nor people, I was informed at Linty, that not long ago, the Dutch fent an armed force to fubdue Goram : it confifled of Buggeffes, who were beat off by the inhabitants. CHAP- ri .12 /\ /SO Fart ofD&y J3SM.S0-E. 77/r/ar (rf//A-\> A,J3ee///f>< S.AJ.Z S. (yoa <>f <-;■<>f>rf//<>//<> wj\S.'i>S./2Z. ('(>/■{ >r(t/v> 7*//V cfAJa/u/,>/f>,r/-\- S.SW. Y/e/f #f the J£n£nmc£ of D&ry ' ///■ ■ I ft///, ///< r//v / The f7'vvy;7 ,/,//// ah ((>//,>/ "A /.z /,/?/*,> tAie Act *AmW,>. j,//r': 'JJO CHAPTER XI. departure from Ef-be Harbour—Stop at the Kanary Iflands—Account of1 Round Harbour—Searched for Nutmegs—Leave the Kanary Iflands— Pafs between the Iflands Bo and Popo—Pafs Gibby—Tuan Buffora goes off in the Night, with Tuan Hadjee s Corocoro—Anchored near the Iflands Syang and Eye, and got frefh Water—Departure thence—Saw the IJland Gilolo—Saw the IJland Morty—Saw the IJlands of Kabruang9 Salibabo, and Tulour—Arrive in Leron Harbour on Salibabo—Tran-faclions there. T)EING all ready to fail, about ten A. M. of the-31 ft, as has been. *M faid, we rowed out of Ef-be harbour. We prefently faw a large corocoro, coming from towards the ifland Ceram. This put us on our guard ; but fhe fleered another way. In the evening we were got abreaft of the Beehive, which lies about five miles W. N. W. from Ef-be harbour. Sounded thirty-three fathom muddy ground.- On Saturday, April the 1 ft, calms, with rain in the night; had a current in our favour, fetting weft. The morning being very clea?, We could fee Ceram, which appeared not above twelve leagues off. By noon, the weftermoft Kanary ifland, which is the largeft, bore N. N. W. about four leagues, we being then in latitude 2° iq' S. afternoon We loft ground with the ebb tide. One On Sunday the 2d, gained in the night, with the flood tide; rowed a good deal in the morning, and got to the eaftward of the great Kanary, where we anchored in five fathom clear fand, within mufket (hot of the fliore, the Dolphin's nofe bearing S. E. by S. five leagues. The boat's crew found a good watering place in a pond, at the fouth end of the great Kanary. While we flopped here, Tuan Hadjee fitted up the fmall corocoro, which had been prefented him by the confort of the Rajah of Salwatty: much as I difliked the equipment, 1 complied with it, finding he was refolved. Got a great many Kanary nuts, the kernels of which (generally two or three, but always in three cells) are full of oil, and as big as a fmall almond ; but more lufcious. Monday the 3d. Weighed about ten, A. M. and flood over to Long Ifland, * where we anchored, within a land locked harbour, in feven fathom, muddy ground. Today we had the wind at wefl. The fmall harbour lies on the left hand, as you pafs from the fouthward, between Long Ifland and Turtle Ifland. The ftrait is about a mile broad, with good foundings, eighteen and twenty fathoms. The paffage into the harbour, which is a circle of about eighty fathom diameter, is bold, and a mufket fhot acrofs. In the middle of the harbour is a round coral rock, dry at low water, and bold all round. A firft rate might lay her fide to it, lying in fix fathom water, muddy ground. Table Ifland, as in the view, appears higher than Long Ifland. To the eaflward of Turtle Ifland, are many fmall low iflets covered with trees. • Plate XV, Tuefday to new guinea: 'Tuefday the 4th. Wind at well:. Rowed northward into a creek, where we lay clofe to the fhore, and had a clear fpot to land upon; whereas, in the harbour before mentioned, which I mall call Round Harbour, it was every where very muddy and fwampy in landing. From this creek we went into the woods, and cut a new foreman: and bowfprit of bintangle wood, which is light, yet flrong, and of a colour like fir. Found abundance of ratans, many of which we cut for our ufe. We alfo fearched for nutmegs and cloves, but found none. Sultry weather. To day, four of our people amufing themfelves in the boat, which could carry ten, overfet her on purpofe, and turned her bottom up : having afterwards righted her, all four laid hold of one end, and, by fuddenly finking out their feet behind, and forcing the boat forward, a deal of water ran out of her, over their heads. She being thus lightened a little, one man went in, and baled her dry. I have often obferved one of my people free a fampan, (canoe) by (being in the water) pulling her fuddenly backwards and forwards, making the water fplafh out. Thus they cannot be drowned, if overfet. Wednefday the 5th. Wind flill at wefl: went a founding about Turtle Ifland, where we had gathered many turtle eggs. Thurfday the 6'h. Variable winds and calm : founded about Clump Ifland. Tuan Hadjee and Tuan Buffora feemed much afraid of meeting with the Dutch. "Friday the 7th. Variable winds and calms, with thunder and lightning to the fouthward. Caught quantities of fifh in Round Harbour, whither we fent the boat at night. The people burnt torches, X and 154 A VOYAGE »77*. and /truck the rim with lances, from the boat, in mallow water. We April. v—-v—got more turtle eggs; but were not fo lucky as to catch a turtle, tho' we faw many prints of their fins. During our flay here we^found the iflands unfrequented; nor had they ever feen Britons before. Saturday the 8th. Much rain and calms. Caught fome fifh in Round Harbour, but not fo many as yeflerday. To day, Mr. Baxter, my mate, having ffruck Capez, a perfon belonging to Tuan Hadjee, it had like to have made an uproar among the people, feveral looking angry and feizing their arrows; but, immediately on his, at my requeft, making an apology to Tuan Hadjee, the affair was made up. Sunday the oth. Calm moft part of the night, with a fine clear morning; failed at ten. Wind S. W. fleered N. W. refolving to go round Morty. Having a fevere head-ake, I could not obferve. We found the current fet to the northward. About funfet we paffed between the iflands of Bo and Popo. Monday the ioth. In the morning could fee Gag, bearing N. N. E. alfo Pulo Pifang, Bo, and Popo, all at the fame time. At noon we were in oo° 50' S. latitude. We then faw Gibby bearing from N. by E. to N. E. by N. Tuefday the nth. In the night paffed between Gibby and the two low iflands of Yo and Utu, that lie to the eafl ward of it. Of them, the ifland nearer to Gibby, is about two miles round. At the fouth point T. /S4 3J to Sand 15 SmiJ BoryF] Dry a/Zon- Ttirr/er 7 ^5Sand /o i Tax* l„3o DOKT on^few (luinea f /JS /, O0jE.cf Given ■■ M)rf,'/r K/rfntriiY /'////v// point of the larger is faid to be a harbour. The paffage between Gibby and the two iflands may be about five miles broad. The N. W. point of Gibby bearing wefl fix leagues, we could not fee Patany Hook, on Gilolo. I imagine Gibby to be about four or five leagues long, and about twelve round; being narrow, and divided into two hills, with alow neck between. * From the more northerly hill, a long low point flretches toward Gilolo; and in the faid hill appears a remarkable gap or cut, when it bears about N. half W. Off this N, W. end of Gibby, from the fouthward, appears alfo an ifland ; behind which, as I was told by Tuan Buffora, whofe family lived at Gibby, fome French fhips had lately lain, and got from Patany many nutmeg and clove plants, which they carried to their iflands of Bourbon and Mauritius. *f* This perfon went off in the night, with the fmall corocoro that Tuan Hadjee had fitted up. I cannot help imagining he expected to be able to get afhore, and afterwards to overtake the veffel, as he left a Have on board, and his wearing apparel. Neither of my Europeans knew of his going off, until fome little time after he was gone; and I did not choofe to lie to for him, as the wind was then frefh and fair; befides that, hereabouts were faid to be many Dutch cruifers. At eight A. M. we faw low land, bearing N. E. Towards noon the wind came to the northward, with which I flood N. W. finding • Plate VII. t The French have fince carried them to the iflands Mahe or Sechelles ; and fome Were even lent to the Weft Indies. Tuan Buflbra had, in couverfation, informed me, that the eafl: coafl of Gilolo was ^etter inhabited than the weft. The weft coaft being more immediately under the eye of ^utch feverity, the inhabitants poflibly get to the eaftward, to enjoy more freedom. X 2 the the current fet N. E. for we fart approached the low land we had difcerned at eight in the morning. Still approaching the low land in the afternoon, I wifhed much to get to it; but, in the night, the wind coming thence, I fleered to an oppofite quarter, N. N. W. and N. W. Towards morning I put about, and flood N. E. right for the land, the wind coming from the N. N. W. Wedncfday the 12th. At day light I faw again the land mentioned yeflerday. There were two iflands, low and flat: the more northerly was the fmaller. As I expected anchorage near them, and did not like to keep the fea with uncertain winds, in the track of Dutch cruifers, [ promifed a reward to twenty rowers, if I reached them. This made them exert themfelves, and at ten A. M. I got within four miles of the iflands : the wind then coming fair, I flood on ; at noon had no obfer-vation j P. M. anchored on a bank of great extent, depth ten fathom, fand and long weeds. Towards evening, the wind dying away, vfe rowed back towards the two low iflands, Sent the boat to the fmaller, named Pulo Eye, for water; but, it being late, there was not time to dig. Anchored in the ftrait between the iflands, the tide running three knots: caught fourteen fifh in the night, each weighing feven or eight pounds. * Tburfday the 13th. In the morning I went afhore to the larger ifland, called Syang. On cutting an arrow plant, (a fpecies of pine) 1 found frefh water drop from it; I then dug, and got good water. The weather threatening, I haflcd on board, and rowed behind a low fandy iflet, not above an acre in content. It had a few bufhes on it; and, by the frefh prints of turtle fins, we were guided to fome of their * Plate XI. N° 3. eggs. eggs. This iflet lies on the weft Tide of the ifland Syang, with two fathom water, fandy ground, behind it in fome places : in other places it is rocky. We touched upon the rocks; but, the water bein^-fmooth, we got no hurt. P. M. it was fqually to the N. W. which, however, came to nothing. Had it come to blow at N. W. we lay very fnug behind the fmall ifland, where no fquall could affect us. Dug for water : fome rain water, which was fweet, ran off the furface into our wells. Friday the 14th. This morning we found the water in our wells brackifh : weighed about two P. JVI. rowed from behind the little fandy ifland, and anchored in feven fathom abreaft of where we had firft dug for water, being the northermoft part of the larger ifland. Had much rain, with winds at S. E. On Saturday the 15th, weighed at one A. M. there being appearance of fine weather. We were immediately carried to the eafl:ward, entirely out of our courfe, by a tide or current. We therefore rowed and failed back to Pulo Eye, and anchored at feven P. M. in five fathom rocky ground, two miles from the fhore, its fouth extreme bearing E. S. E. We had hard fqualls from the eaflward, with rain : ftruck our matt. Sunday the 16th. Weighed, and ran behind Pulo Syang, and anchored in feven fathom fand and rocks, oppofite the watering place, it bearing E. by N. three miles diflant. The trees there appeared green, but low; fome tali timber trees, flripped of their hark, being behind them. Wc fent our boat afhore, and filled our jars with. 158 A V O Y A G E ,77?' with rood water at the well we had firft dug. In attempting to weigh April. ° —v—J our anchor from this place, there being a great fea and a frefh gale at E. N. E. we parted our cable, and then fleered N. N. W. the veflel making much water. On Monday the 17th, moderate weather, wind at E. and S. E. By noon we had run from Pulo Syang eighty-four miles on a N. W. by N. courfe, and were in the latitude of oi° 55' N. We could then fee fome high land, bearing W. N. W. it was part of the great ifland Gilolo. Steered north, the wind at S. E. by E. The fea being fmooth, we did not make fo much water as before. At funfet we faw plainly the land : it appeared in two bluff points, bearing from W. by N. half N. to W. S. W. We faw alfo a point of low land bearing N. W. Steered N. N. E. when the wind permitted, not choofing to keep near the land. Twfdiy the 18th. Calms, rain, and variable winds. By an indifferent obfervation at noon, we were in 020 39' N. the N. E. point of Gilolo bearing W. N. W. where an almoft table land jets out, and promifes a bay to its fouthward. At one P. M. faw the ifland Morty bearing N. N. W. Rowed a good deal in the night, and rewarded the rowers. I remarked the north eaft promontory of Gilolo to be rugged land. Wednesday the 19th. Light airs and calms. At three A. M. a frefh breeze from the S. W. by S. Steered N. E. and N. N. E. Towards noon it was dead calm : we then rowed a little while in latitude 030 29' the north part of the ifland Morty bearing N. W. five leagues; the the fouth part of it S. W. half S. fix leagues. Could fee, at the fame time, the north eaft promontory of Gilolo bearing S. by W. very diftant. I reckon the north part of Morty to lie in 030 40' N, It was calm fome part of the night. Thurfday the 20th. Having rowed a good deal all night, in the morning found the current fet us to the N. W. Morty then bore from S. S. W. to S. S. E. the north part of Gilolo bearing S. W. very diftant. At noon we were in latitude 040 05' N. Morty, * to the eaft, north, and north weft, Hoping gently to the fea, and terminating in low points, bids fair for good anchoring ground. The ifland is pretty high, but rifes no where fuddenly: the outline, taken on the whole, is not uneven, though fome portions are. At funfet Morty bore from S. E. by E. to S. S. E. ten leagues. On Friday the 21ft, rowed and failed in the night, it being fine weather. We fleered N. W. and N. W. by W. as the wind permitted. About ten in the morning, faw land bearing W. N. W. ten leagues diftant. At noon, were in the latitude of 040 41' N. then discerned other land, bearing from N. W. to W. N. W. forming in Addles and hummocs. The land firft feen was the ifland of Ka-hruang,"f* which makes like a peaked hill. Salibabo, clofe to it, has a table land j and the land appearing in hummocs is Tulour, or Tanua Labu, which Valentine % calls Karkalang, At funfet we lay to, fear- * Plate XL | Plate VI. N° 2. X Since my being in England, 1 have feen Valentine's map of Leron harbour, and ^°und it very exact. ing i775» ing the current might drive us paft Salibabo, where was (one of Tuan /.pril. - u—J Hadjee's people told me) a good harbour at a place called Leron, and whither we propofed to go for provifions. , Saturday the 22d. At two in the morning, made fail, and ran between the iflands Kabruang and Salibabo, into the harbour of Leron-* Anchored in ten fathoms muddy ground, having the fea open only from S. by E. half E. to S. E. by E. We had fince morning hoifted Dutch colours, and fent the boat afhore as a Dutch one. Immediately after we had anchored, came on board to queflion us, a blind Chinefe, who fpoke very good Malay. I prefented him with a fathom of courfe chintz. In the afternoon I went on more in the corocoro with Tuan Hadjee, and the two Batchian officers, to vifit the two Rajahs, fo many being on Salibabo. I gave each a piece of Tap-pies, and they permitted the people of the village to fell us provifions. I found that the people of this ifland were at war with the inhabitants of Kabruang, the ifland oppofite, and diftant only five or fix miles. I was fhocked at landing, to fee a man's head, lately cut off, hanging by the hair from a branch of a tree, under which wc paffed; the blood yet dropping from it on the fand. Sunday the 23d. Frefh northerly winds >, got into the inner harbour, and anchored in three and a half fathom water, muddy ground. Here 1 found we lay much fmoother, than where wt lay yefterday in ten fathom. To day many fmall canoes came on board; we bought kala-vanfis, potatoes, fome rice, and two goats, all very reafonable in their price, which we paid in coarfe calicoes, red handkerchiefs, 6cc. Thefe iflands being well cultivated, abound with inhabitants and provifions. * Plate XVII. To 7^ S,Jlt<:tS 1 kl1 ~P L W of Part of F av 0 a . i jru M.W T.lUTAJN or the Salomon [SLAMPfl , Copied from IXiuijuor, / bSbaxi /vtf/i Df Bry, Utrrtrn.&e. v ^^-yl'.l< Yin \ JrJ ^ "1 cofas ■ JUri 0,1'.'. /////,; S .('••In/in. I ','«*. '/'r If # 2 * V ^ V-t Sketch of the GeclvitikV />/., tilt 'Int.itt'tArttr> iw.e'f/rtvf.intt. , Scale of io? GooN.'iuiir M ilea Hope SLHttffitti* C o 1 v <>r Tart nf l> a m P IH K S Chart, (\ij)o (ri»od Ifope.loNfWTirifain . <3 1 ^ ■ Garret D/yptu /_ i'.iirmnif 7. y.i B n 1 t.i vx 1 a .1 C^9SM#I TO NEW G U I N E A, To day we had a good deal of rain; a great fwell without, made high breakers on a point of rocks, which forms the harbour on the right hand coming in, and on which a few bufhes grow. We obferved great rejoicings afhore, and feveral Dutch enfigns difplayed. Sent Mr. Lound the gunner about ten A. M. to examine a prow or boat that lay for fale about two miles off, to the N. W. of Leron ; fuch feeming an expedient purchafe, as the galley was very leaky. I found fome difficulty in agreeing about the terms that afternoon, becaufe flic wanted fome repairs j fo in the evening, when we went on board, confulting with Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers, we refolved to have nothing to fay to her, and to be gone immediately in our own veffel; for we dreaded a rupture with the people of Leron, who began (we were told) to fufpect our galley a Mindano piratical cruifer. Monday the 24th. At break of day, a fmall canoe with only one man came from Kabruang, to fee who we were. Of this though we did not inform him, he feemed in hafte to return, without landing on Leron, the two iflands being at war. Leron is a very good harbour % but, in going into it, it would be proper to fend a boat ahead, and examine the entrance. The people of thefe iflands are of the Malay colour, with long hair. They are under Sangir, which is fubjedt to Ternate. They are much oppreffed by their Kolanos, or chiefs; and, for trifling offences, fold for flaves. Their arms are, lance, fword, target, and dagger. They manufacture a coarfe kind of cloth, made of the Wild plantan tree, called Abaka ; the fruit of which is bitter, and full of black feeds. They had many hogs, but I bought none. Y CHAP- CHAPTER XII. Departure from Leron—Paffed by feveral fmall Iflands—Saw the IJlands Belk and Serangani—Paffed the Harbour of Batulakki, on Magindano —Alfo, the great Bay of Sugud Boy an—St opt at a Sandy Ifland—Got Sight of the Ifland of Bunwoot—Paffed Timoko Hill, and entered the River of Magindano—Remarks on the Monfoons in the Eajlern Parts of India, in low Latitudes. "J_JAVING therefore refolved to continue in our own veffel, leaky as fhe was, rather than run any hazard in- changing her for another, which was neither lanched nor fitted, I weighed at funrife, with a fcant wind at N. E. Going out we made much water, as there was a head fea, and I was obliged to carry fail, to clear the ifland Salibabo. Mr. Baxter having yefterday purchafed a boy about fifteen, for an old fcarlet coat, the latter in the night jumped overboard and fwam afhore, leaving the purchafer to boaft of his bargain. Being now clear of the ftrait between Kabruang and Salibabo, we flood on N. W. by N. with the wind at N. E. by E. towards night had much rain, with a chopping fea; made much water : lay to till morning. Tuefday 25. Fair weather, after a very bad night, from many caufcs; at eleven A. M, faw a fmall ifland with a hummoc, bearing N. W. eight miles; at noon, were in latitude 05° 00' north, lying up N. W. wind at N. E. the corocoro far aflern. At the fame time, a very high hill fnl! We S. W. by S. half S. I take it to be the north part of Sangir. P. M. faw four other fmall iflands at different times to the northward ; one, rocky, made like buttons; one was flat; one made like an obtufe cone j and one had a treble hill. On Wcdnefday the 26th, at midnight, could fee the ifland, with a hummoc mentioned yefterday, bearing S. E. at noon were in 050 13' by an indifferent obfervation ; it was then almoft calm. The weather being very cloudy to the northward, over Magindano, and the wind at north, f me part of the night we lay to: I fufpect the current fet to the weftward. Thurfday the 27th. It looking very gloomy to the northward, with much rain, flowed all our fails, and lay to until morning ; had no obfervation. The wind in the afternoon chopped about to the W. and W. N. W. We thought we faw land bearing N. E. fleered for it; faw a butterfly : at night thunder and lightning over the land. On Friday the 28th, wind at N. W. fleered N. N. E. and N. E. made much water; at day light difcovered Pulo Serangani, bearing E. by N. at the diflance of about twelve leagues. It appeared like a blunt fugar loaf; at the fame time, we could fee other land to the northward of it, being part of Magindano. Wind at W. S. W. fleered N. and N. N. E. had much rain, thunder and lightning, with a chopping fea. Lay to fome part of the night. On A V O Y A G E On Saturday the 29th, fleered N. N. E. and N. E. under our lateen mizen bent as a forefail, having rent our proper forefail. In the morning, the ifland of Serangani bore S. E. we fleered directly thither,, and anchored near it about ten A. M» There are two iflands; the more weflerly is very high,, making a fugar loaf; * its north coafl is bold. A fpot of fand runs off its N. E. point, which we doubled, and anchored in feven fathom, muddy ground mixed with fand; a certain flat table point bearing wefl, half a league off, and the ftraits mouth between the eafler and wefler ifland being fliut in. Tuan Hadjee went afhore, and, in about an hour, returned with a pilot, who carried us farther into the flrait, that feparates the iflands, fleering S. E. and brought us into nine foot water among rocks5 however, we lay in a clean fpot of fand, about thirty fathom wide, and got cut two wooden anchors, which we fixed between the coral rocks, it blowing frefh at N. W. but in the evening it foftcned a little. Several canoes came on board, from the more weflerly ifland, with coco nuts and fowls ; they proffered alfo for fale, fome pieces of yellow wax, which I am told abounds in thofe parts. That ifland is partly cultivated, and is properly called Belk. The eaflern has not near fo good an appearance, neither are there any coco nut trees to be feen, which are fo numerous on the weflern ifland. Next morning, the 30th, I went afhore on a little iflet, hard by the weflern Serangani, (called Moleron) where we found many lemon • Plate XVIh trees, trees, and gathered a good deal of the fruit, which was, however, jES" Very fmall; on this ifbnd, we found alfo many Mahometan graves. ^—-v—±~ Trees were planted, as if to fhade the graves- They had few leaves, °ut bore white flowers, tinged with yellow infide, about an inch long, which yielded a moil fragrant fmell : Malays call it Bunga Mcllora. filled our water on the weflern ifland, near Moleron : this day *he winds have moflly been from the N, W* Monday, May ifh Fine weather, with the wind at fouth; weighed May ift,-and got from amongft the rocks and fhoals, with which we were almoft Surrounded. At noon we approached the coaft of Magindano, which we found to be twelve miles diftant from the iflands of Serangani : at three P. M. we were abreaft of the harbour of Batulakki,* which may be known by a remarkable rock, about the fize of a large dwelling houfe. M is of a pipe clay colour, with a few bufhes atop. This large rock, a«da fmall rock contiguous, which appears like a boat bottom up, muft De kept on the left, going into the harbour. Between the large rock ar»d the main, is a reef of rocks, over which, boats may pafs at high water. In the harbour is ten fathom water, as I was told. A little way to the northward of it, are two cleared fpots on the hills of a conical ^lape: off the harbour, I founded thirty-three fathom water, muddy ground. Tuefday the 2d. Fine weather. To the northward of this harbour, is the entrance of the great bay of Sugud Boyan, or harbour °f Boyan. North of Sugud Boyan, and clofe to the fea, is high land, °f a pretty even outline, its flope to the fea terminating in a fair beach. Was affured there was anchoring ground; but it is near the fhore. • Plate XVII. Tuan jW« Tuan Hadjee informed me, that the Dutch had fome years ago endea-u.—Jm-J voured to fettle at Batulakki, having fent thither a fhip, and a number of Panchallangs from Ternate ; but, that they were drove off by the people of Mindano, who carried away a ftone they had left with their mark upon it. Wednefday the 3d. Fine weather, with the tide or current in our favour, flill failing along a fmooth fandy beach, to the northward of the entrance off the bay of Sugud Boyan. At noon, the weather being cloudy, we had no obfervation. At fun fet, Serangani was juft out of fight, bearing S- E. by S. Came on board feveral boats, from a place called Tugis; they hoifted fmall white flags. The Mindano people in thofe boats, paid great refpecl: to Tuan Hadjee, whom they had known before. At his defire, I made them fome fmall prefents. In the night we paffed a bluff head land, about a league N. W. of Tugis. On either fide this head land, the natives faid there was good anchorage. They informed me withall, that the fame head land being in one, with a fugar loaf hill juft within it, leads at fea to a fhoal, on which is only three fathom water, upon fand and rocks. On T'hurfday the 4th, faw a fpot of fand clofe to the more, and near a flat point. I approached it in the boat, and found many funk rocks about it. I then returned on board, foon after the tide fetting S. E. with the wind at N. W« I flood off, and lay to, not choofing to go near this fpot of fand, (which might be about an acre) on account of the many rocks about it. In the evening, the wind coming off the land, we lay up along fhore. rburfda) Friday the 5th. Fine weather : about fun rife, the land wind veered to the northward, and we lay up no better than weft. The wind then fluffed to S. W. foon after to W. N. W. About ten A. M. we unexpectedly faw the fandy ifland mentioned yefterday. Finding the tide had driven us a good deal to the fouthward, I ran behind it, leaving.it on toe left, and anchored in five fathoms clear fand. I then fent to the 'Uain land-, and got water. We weighed at funfet, and failed between tne main and the fandy ifland, where we found overfalls, from twenty to two fathoms, and then to thirty-five fathoms rocky ground, about two miles from the beach. All night we had a fine land wind at N. with a new moon. In the morning of Saturday the 6th, faw a fmall ifland with a hum-*Uoc, bearing north, near the main land. Steered N, N. W. with the wind at S. W. by S. At nine A. M. we perceived the low trees of a bay, lying to the N. E. of the faid ifland. At night the tide was in °Ur favour, and we had a fine land breeze, fleering N. and N. by W. The fun being to the northward thefe feveral days, we had no obfer-v*tion. Sunday the 7th. Fine weather, and a favourable gale at E. and S. • Before day light we pallid the north part of the bay obferved yef- t^rday • at feven A. M. we difcovered the ill and of Bunwood, bearing ^* N. E. Part of it appeared like what feamen call a gunner's coin 0r wedge. Dark and cloudy was the weather, till near noon ; it then c^ared up, and Tapian point bore N. N. E. three leagues. I^is rath ner low, but not flat; and lies in latitude j° 1 c'N. Afternoon we ad a frefh gale at fouth, and paffed- Tapian point about three. At half paft Four we were abreaft of Tirnoko hill: we left it on the right i as we did a hill, inland a little way, which is clear from wood atop* being entirely covered with grafs ; and is called Kablallang. About rive I entered the river Pelangy, commonly called Magindano river, and had barely two fathom water on the bar. Having fo far profecuted the voyage, before I conclude this chapter, I could wifli to fay fomething of the nature of the winds and currents in low latitudes, eafl of Atcheen Head j which may be termed in general as far as the Moluccas, a Malay region-—The Malay tongue, foft and eafily learnt, being underflood and fpoken all along the coafl of the iflands, which in the map occupy this vafl fpace. The winds, which blow from the fouth and wefl, in the bay of Ben~ gall, and in the China feas, commonly called the S. W. Monfoon, blo^ N. W. on that part of Sumatra, north of the line ; as the hills there alter the direction of the wind, which at Atcheen Head is S. W. and follows the fituation of the coafl, which is N. W. Again, fouth of the line, the S. W. monfoon coincides with the perpetual trade wind* and becomes S. E. Between Borneo and Celebes, between Celebes arid Gilolo, and without Java and Sumatra, the monfoons, that in the China feas are S» W. and N» E. may, with propriety, be called N. and S. or rather N» W. and S. E. Captain Wilfon, of the Pitt, Indiaman, in this idea, profecuted and made good his paffage from Batavia to China, againfl the monfoon* 1* 1775' May. In evidence of fo great merit, that track is often kept. When the mips get pafl Pitt's Strait, into the fouth fea, near the iflands Palaos, * they find the current fet ftrong to the northward at full and change. The purfuers of this track, I would advife to fteer without Java, rather than within, or to the northward of it; unlefs, indeed, the fhip has bufinefs at Batavia. On the fouth coaft of Java, during the N. E. monfoon, the winds are ftrong from the N. W. and W. the current fetting the fame way, and in this track, the road of Carang Affem, on the ifland of Bally, affords moft excellent refrefhments. Being there on board the Bonetta ketch, in the year 1763, I found plenty of bullocks, at two dollars, and hogs at one dollar each : ducks alfo in great quantities. I left Banditten Ifland on the left, fleered for Bally Peak or Hill, and anchored in ten fathom, fandy ground, out of the tide, about half a mile from the fhore. As there are no foundings, or at leaft, very deep water, juft without where I anchored, I would recommend to the navigator to fteer boldly for the houfes of Carang Af-fem, and anchor as I did, keeping the peak about N. by E. This I choofe to be more particular in mentioning, as the India Directory, from wrong information, fays, there is no anchorage hereabouts. The fhip Experiment was alfo here, fome years after me. When I anchored, the natives, who are Gentoos, came on board, in little canoes, with outriggers on each fide. On the edges of the canoe, for the bottom was too narrow, I put a gang cafk, with which the owner paddled into a frefh water river, and, within twenty minutes, brought it full of water; for which fervice I paid ten or twelve China cam, with a hole in each, of which I bought four hundred for a Spanifh dollar. " Of this circumftance I was informed by Captain Affleck, of his Majefty's {hip ( Argo, who made the paffage in 1764. Z This This agreeable ofhcioufnefs of the natives prevented my rifking out boat on more. Afternoon the Rajah of Carang Affem did me the honour of a vifit. He fung as he came on board, in a fmall boat, with one attendant. His nails were remarkably long. In the road lay feveral prows, loaded with rice, from the adjacent ifland Lomboc, which is alfo inhabited by Gentoos j and on the fides of the hills of Lomboc are, I am informed, large pools or tanks of water, for the purpofe of watering their rice fields, after the manner of the Gentoos of Indoflan, from whom they are certainly defcended. The ifland Bally, on the fouth fide, is well cultivated, and many of the grounds are inclofed ; it is full of inhabitants, who fpin a great deal of cotton yarn, which the Chinefe chiefly export to Bencoolen, and other parts, as well as checkered cloths, like Bengal Lungys made of it. The Chinefe carry alfo in floops and prows, from Bally to Fort Marlbro, pickled pork and dried (jerked) beef, which Malays call ding-ding. If a fhip refrefhes here, and the captain has a little patience, he will come off remarkably cheap. Iron, cutlery, and opium, are the articles of trade; but no quantity can be fold, as filver and gold are fcarce. They have cotton exceeding cheap ; but they do not pack it well i putting it in bafkets, like thofe called at Batavia, caniflers. The natives are rather of a better character than the Mahometan Malays but I did not truft myfelf afhore. Here, not only women often kill themfelves, or burn with their deceafed hufbands; but men alfo burn in honour of their deceafed maflers. Thofe who determine on this, are not limited to time : they name, perhaps, a diftant day; and, in the mean while, their intention tention being made known, there is no honour the natives can think of, but they pay to this devotee. He is venerated and careffed wherever he goes. On the fatal day, by the fide of a great lire, a loofe flage of boards is erected j on this he dances, working himfelf up to a fit; he then fkips to the end of a plank, which tilting, he falls headlong into the flames. This I learnt from one of my men, Ifhmael Jerrybatoo, a man of veracity, who had feen it. A fhip having refreshed at this mofl eligible place, may continue her voyage, leaving Bally to the weft, and after making the Pater-nofters, haul up for what is called the Bugeroons, or the Strajt of Salayer. By no means go to the fouthward of Salayer, which is full of fhoals. The track then is, to leave Boutonon the left, and Ceram on the right; but I queftion whether it were not preferable to haul up to the northward of the Kanary iflands ; leaving them and Myfol on the right, left the fhip fhould fall to leeward. Some fhips go through the Strait of Golowa, fome through Pitt's Strait, and fome through a ftrait flill farther north, called, in certain maps, Augufla's Strait, which has the ifland Waygiou on the north fide of it, I cannot find any fhips have gone north of Waygiou, into the South Sea, coafling the north fide of that ifland, where I found three good harbours, Piapis, Offak, and Rawak. All the charts I have feen, leave the north coafl of Waygiou undetermined by a dotted line. However 172 A VOYAGE j775- However definable it may be to put into thefe harbours, yet I would ii.-v-.^ not advife a fhip to go into the fouth fea, by the north of Waygiou; as,. fo far north, fhe may meet the wind at N. E. whereas, farther fouth, in Augufta's, Pitt's, or Golowa ftrait, the wind, during the N. E. monfoon* is more likely to blow from the weftward, according to the general rule. Nor do I doubt but on each fide of thefe ftraits there may be very good harbours and inhabitants. Salwatty may be better inhabited than Waygiou ; for I fent to the former, whilft I lay near Waygiou, for a flock of fago bifcuit, which was prefently purchafed, as has been told. A VOYAGE AO 46 5$ /O r H o o **** /'''//// Wirteri/h; f't.tcc /'Alii' Of EfBE I. Bfi»e«J Seaie <•/' M i/e,< ewe ll0t> 33 Hud I S Ji A IN 1) 0 \ Kiln- 1 j 45 Loir /.r/i/i/ A7'.A'..i/. , t/l'.'r'/ /.< t,rii/t Kirinrry /.' I tin A e 50 Tal'le ■ TslstnA li Uarhnnr keep the /et.://./ .e e/iut in irif/i y and frvrrvw ti/ie/i A'/'Ae /.'Anu/ . e Cn*tm T*itmd Mimjy I<* haute hereabout*. O o e, Pule /-J/'/-,- KJ'.Sej. I., // . ///}//, Bluff White ('///'/■ ( 're//'i 1 /,> t/i/><> />'/,. At the oi-ke h<>/r U'iiS- A'.h'.AA'. />. /> 10. The Bangil Bangil,, 4. The Belam, 11. The Matima Pulo, 5. TheTagabaly, 12. The Matima Pute, 6. The Kalagan, 13. The Telandrig, 7. The Bagubo, 14. The Alang. 8. TheManfaka, The Magindano tongue is copious and energetic: it has many of the Chinefe idioms, as I was told by the Sultan, who, by converting *nuch with Chinefe, though not in the Chinefe, but in the Magindano tongue, was able to judge of this circumftance; about which I particularly afked him. They have a name, which they give to their fons during childhood, and another for manhood : in this they refemble the Chinefe. In their manners and cufloms are other particulars in which they re-&mble that nation ; fuch as, yellow being the royal colour; guefls * Hiftoire General de PAfir, p. 909, at at feafts of ceremony having all different tables, and, in proportion to the greatnefs of the ceremony, the tables loaded. They are fond of mufical gongs, * which come from Cheribon on Java, and have round knobs on them ; others without knobs, come from China* Their ladies, when compleatly dreffed, put me in mind of Chinefe pictures, and of thofe ladies, whom by chance I have feen in chairs, in the flreets of the fuburbs of Canton. Before the difcovery of the road to India, by the Cape of Good Hope, it is certain, that mips found their way to China, from the two Arabian gulphs, as alfo from the coafl of Malabar. Even many hundred years before the time of Marco Polo, the famous Venetian traveller, Eben Wahab, in the year 898, travelled to China, -j-he mentions, that in China is Canfu, the city of Arabian traders. The capital of that empire was then called Cumdan, two months journey from Canfu. No wonder then that fome of the Arabs found their way to the ifland of Magindano. The Arabians were formerly great difcoverers, and feldom failed to conquer the lands they had difcovered. Their religion contributed to their influence, whitherfoever they reforted. Their frequent ablutions tending to cleanlinefs, efpecially in a warm country, recommended a felf evident virtue, of which the practitioners only know the luxury. Their abhorrence of fwine's flefh, makes thofe who not only handle, • A gong is an inftrument of brafs, fomewhat like a tabor or drum, with only one head, f Harris's Coliedlion, pages 522, 529, 535. but out eat that animal, become contemptible in their eyes, and poflibly foon after in their own : for, who can bear to be defpifed ? The trade alfo of fuch an ifland as Magindano,* where the uncivilifed inhabitants wanted iron, Sec. was a great inducement, as the returns were in gold wax, and cinnamon. No wonder therefore, that the moors foon fought and found fuch footing. Voyages in thofe days were not fo fafe or fo frequent as in thefe. For this reafon, no doubt, the merchants flayed long at a place, took wives, built houfes, Sec. The town of Magindano ftands about fix miles from the bar of the river Pelangy, on the right hand going up, juft where the river Melampy joins it. The Pelangy is then about the width of the river Thames at London bridge. The Melampy is a river about half as broad as the Pelangy; and, as you go up, it ftrikes off" to the right, whilft the Pelangy on the left, retains its breadth for many miles, A good way higher at Kabantallan, the Pelangy fends forth a branch bigger than itfelf, called the Tamantakka, which difcharges itfelf into the fea, about three miles fouth of the Pelangy or Magindano bar. The remarkable hill of Timoko, an only hill at the fea fide of a pretty large plain, lies between the mouths of the two rivers. The Tamantakka has three fathom water on its bar, at high water in fpring tides; while only two fathoms are on the bar of the Pelangy, * Mindano omnium maxima rcgio, eft cinnamomi commendata. Auri quoque Fodinas habet, portafque, ac navium ftationes commodiflimas, De Hry, vol. iii, fol, 35. Canelade Mindanao tan vivo el picante como lo mejor de Ceilan. Combes's Account of Mindano, 1667. p. 9. A a The The bar of the river Tamantakka being more expofed to the wef-tern fea, than the bar of the Pelangy, ancT confequently more liable to a fwell, makes that river's accefs lefs fafe than the Pelangy's ; altho* there be more water on its bar. The mouth of the Pelangy, being much fheltered by the ifland of Bunwoot, affords a fmooth bar almoft at all times. No wonder then that the fmall river is preferred to the greater, as the largefh vefTels on either, never draw above fix or feven foot water. From the fouth fide of Magindano river, runs alfo a fpit of fand, the extremity of which may be brought almofl in one with theS. W. part of Bunwoot ;* and then is fifteen fathom water. If the tide does not anfwer, a veflel may anchor here in a good road, juft without the bar: for, it fhoals fuddenly from ten to two fathoms, coming from fea on the bar. Within, is two and a half fathom water, and in certain places three fathom at low water, half a mile from the bar. About five miles from the bar, or one mile from the town, is fhoal water; fo that a veflel drawing above twelve foot, cannot get over it. Abreaft of the town, is two fathom and a half depth at low water. A good way to the eaftward of Magindano are two lakes. The fmaller, called Buloan, runs into the larger Liguaflin, and the latter communicates with the Pelangy : but the fource of the Pelangy lies a great way farther N. E. Thefe two lakes are feveral miles round, but they are much inferior in extent to the great Lano in the Illano country, already mentioned, and of which more hereafter. * Plate XVIII, The The town, that goes properly by the name of Magindano, confifts at prefent, of fcarce more than twenty houfes. They ftand clofe to, and juft above where a little creek, about eighteen foot broad, runs perpendicular into the Pelangy, from a fmall lake about one mile diftant, and about half a mile in circumference. This fmall lake is called the Dano; the creek I have juft mentioned, is the Rawafs (or river) Magindano ; and from the banks of the lake or Dano, a little earth is taken, upon which the Rajah Moodo* muft ftand, when he is confecrated Sultan. The Rajah Moodo is elected by the ftates, and fucceeds the Sultan; fimilar to the king of the Romans fucceeding the emperors of Germany. A Watamama^ is alfo elected, who becomes Rajah Moodo, when Rajah Moodo becomes Sultan. Clofe to the rawafs (river) Magindano, and oppofite the few houfes making the town of that name, ftands the town of Selangan, J which may be faid to make one town with the other, as communicating with it by feveral bridges over the Rawafs. It extends about one mile down the fouth fide of the Pelangy, forming a decent ftreet for one half of the diftance. The fortified palace of the Sultan, and the ftrong wooden caftles of the Datoo's, Topang and Chartow, take up one iide of the river; the other fide is occupied by individuals. By Datoo Chartow's Fort, which is the third fartheft from that of his father the Sultan, runs another fmall river, like that which is called Rawafs Magindano. * Rajah Moodo, young king. | Watamama fignifies male child. % Called Siligan, by Pierre Davity. Description Gener/ile d'Asie, p. 910. A a 2 It It alfo difcharges itfelf into the Pelangy, and Datoo Chartow has led it round three fides of his fort, the Pelangy warning the fourth fide. His caftle feems Wronger than either Topang's Fort, or the Sultan's «pal ace. Below this, the town extends about half a mile, in feveral irregular flreets; where many Chinefe refide. In the town of Selangan altogether, may be about two hundred houfes; below the Sultan's palace, about twenty yards, is a brick and mortar foundation remaining of a Spanifh chapel. But in a country thinly inhabited, and where ground is of no value, Mahometans efpecially, choofe not to croud together; each defiring a houfe on the bank of a river. Peculiarly is this vifible here, where, upon the winding banks of the Pelangy, the Melampy, the Tamantakka, and by the fides of the many creeks that interfecT: the ground between thofe capital rivers, at the diflance of almoff. every three hundred yards, fometimes we fee a (ingle houfe, fometimes a group of houfes, with gardens of coco nut, mango, and plantain trees, fugar canes, and rice fields, for many miles up thofe rivers : particularly the Tamantakka, which being the greateft, its banks are bold and dry. They are too fond of bathing in frefh water, to wifh the neighborhood of the fea, though there are fome villages of fait makers, who live always clofe to it. Their manner of making fait, will be related hereafter. As the country, through which thofe rivers lead often in a winding courfe, is a plain of about twelve miles broad, extending N. E. forty or TO NEW GUINEA. x8i °r fifty miles as far as the fource of the Pelangy, and S. E. as far as W * May. toe lakes of Liguafiin and Buloan, they travel moftly by water in fompans or canoes of different fizes j and many vefTels of forty and fifty oars are built along the banks of thofe rivers. Wherever is a h°ufe, there is a fmall portion of the river fufficient for bathing, railed ln> againft Alligators:* a practice no lefs requifite at Selangan, where houfes are built by the river fide. The river Semoy, between Magindano river and Pollock harbour, iflues from the Pelangy, and runs through a plain. I have obferved, *n going up the Tamantakka, that it is bounded to the fouthward by clear hills gently lifing to no great height from its banks. They are diverfified with woods, and clear fpots of the coarfe long grafs, which toe Malays call Lalang, Kutch Grafs. Though I have defcribed the towns of Magindano and Selangan as taking one, the name Selangan carries it generally over the other, among the people of the country. It ftands on the fouth fide of the Slangy, where it is joined by the Melampy, about fix miles from the bar. In the fouth weft monfoon, when much rain is in the river, frefh ^ater may be had juft within the bar. The ftrongeft current is with toe ebb tide, which may then run about four miles an hour, efpecially after rain; and, during this monfoon, the tide feldom or never runs up. The higheft tide is then about two days after the full moon, * They have alfo in the water two neceffaries, one above, and one below the bathing Place. to ufe as the tide comes up or down. near near eight in the morning. An eafl or wefl moon makes high water* During the north eaft monfodh, the higheft tide is in the night, near eight o'clock ; and, during this monfoon, the tide runs up about two or three miles an hour, a go6d way above Selangan. In both mofl* foons, the tides fife about fix inches higher on the full moon than on the change; then rife on the bar about fix foot, and at town about fix foot and a half perpendicular. This rife fometimes overflows a little the adjacent grounds; to obviate which inconvenience, the paths arc m many places raifed ; as is, particularly at Selangan, the ftreet which partes the three capital houfes. On the point of land, where the river Melampy runs into the Pelangy, is a fort called Goto Intang, or Diamond Fort. Here, a fev/ years fince, Kybad Zachariel, fome time ago elected Rajah Moodo, & fuccefTor to the Sultan, has built alfo a town. The fort is upon the extreme point of land, in extent about fi* acres, ftrongly palifadoed with round trees five and twenty foot high. This fort commands both rivers ; and towards the Pelangy, the broader and more considerable, is a plaiform twelve foot from the ground. The floor is of flout plank, ftrongly fupported by polls and beams. On this are mounted five pieces of cannon, fix and nine pounders; and, being covered overhead, the platform is not fo fubjeel: to decay as gun platforms generlly are in this country, becaufe moiUy expofed to the weather. Guns are mounted under the platforms. When I was there, Rajah Moodo was constructing three folid baf-tions of clay and logs of wood intermixed, cafed round with piles. The The baftions were fquare, about ten foot high, and at three corners of his fort; the covered baftion already mentioned making the fourth. The fort is nearly fquare, and the covered baflion, contiguous to Rajah Moorio's dwelling houfe, is under the flout floor already mentioned. On the ground are feveral pieces of heavy cannon, even with *he / ,r,/ //;<>.Art ftirrrfr, Zi/r\3o** fjjg . CHAPTER IL Geographical Sketch of Places on the Banks of the Rivers Pelangy and Tamantakka, by Tuan Fakymolano^-Defcription of the Saltpetre Cave —Rajah of Boyan. ON the Pelangy,* above Goto Intang, are the nigris (countries) of Katib-tuan, Labungin, and Batanig, on the left hand going u-»r--J up ; thcrt Kabantallan on the right, where the Tamantakka flrikes off; alfo Limopog on the left : Utandan, with a hill on the left, oppofite to Boyan -f on the right, where is a river; Kabolokan on the right, where are hills: Pelangy Lamo, (oldPelangy) on the left, oppofite Udfudun, on the right, where is a river that goes to the lakes of LiguarTin and Buloan. In thefe are many teal and ducks. Then Babuingad on the right, a little below Lagungan on the left; Dupilas on the left, oppofite Makatudog on the right. A little higher, on a fmall river, is Maliduggou, where grows much cocoa. Then, Kaba-kan on the right of the Pelangy, where a little river difcharges itfelf into it. Dalapuan on the right; Mulita on the left. Ulupelangy on ^he left, Sanipan on the right; Gillang, with a river, on the left, and * Plate XVII. t The Chinefe fettled at Mindano are not permitted to mute higher than Boyan; the Mindanoers being jealous of their fuperior abilities in trade. B b Selag Selag on the right, near the fource of the Pelangy, where is much cinnamon. On the banks of the river Tamantakka, are the nigris of Kabug, by the fea-fide, where they make fait; Demapatty, Tamantakka, Dywan, Ampuyan, Tanuel, Batu, Sagil, Dalikan, Tapidan, Butil-lan; and then you come to Kabantallan, where the two rivers meet. At Tapida is a fmall river, up which are the places called Bunwoot and Talaian. A little below the lake LeguafTin, is a river which leads to Gunong Salatan* (fouth hill), where the Subanos or Haraforas -f get more gold than they can difpofe of; trade being fo dead at Magindano. Of this I have been affured by the Sultan. £ As I am now upon the Tamantakka, the faltpetre cave, near a creek running into that river, having excited my curiofity, the reader may not be difpleafed with an account of the vifit I made. I paffed in a canoe from Magindano up the Melampy two miles; I then ftruck oft' on the right through many narrow winding creeks, about three miles; and got to Ampuyan, on the banks of the river Tamantakka, four miles above its bar. I then afcended the Tamantakka, about fix miles in a winding courfe to Tapidan. I ftayed nil night at the Rajah's, whom I acquainted with my intention of going • The chart of thefe countries and rivers, drawn by Fakymolano, is depofited in the Britifl) Mufeum. Plate XVII. ■j- Called fometimes Oran Manubo. % This is different from Valentine's account, who fays there is no gold on Magindano. 3 have feen lumps weighing above an ounce. next next morning to the falpetre cave. He entertained me very politely, as he knew my connexions and early next morning we let cut, accompanied by fome of his people. At Tapidan, a river fets off to the right from the Tamantakka. Having mounted it about half a mile, we found running into it a fmall brook of a Iky blue colour, with a very offenfive fmell and tafte. This brook comes from the hill, where opens the Saltpetre Cave. After paddling up about a mile, I left it on the right, and entered another brook of common frefh water. This with fome difficulty (it being very fhallow) brought me to the foot of the hill. Having climbed the hill a quarter of a mile pretty fteep, I came to a hole, twelve yards to the right of the path way, and about ten foot di meter. 1 then defcended by means of fome poles laid flaming about thirty foot, to a circular area of twenty-five diameter. Exactly above the center of this area is a hole about fix foot diameter, which, betides the paffage we came down by, gave light into it. I then defcended about fix yards through a Hoping pnffage, which in height and width will admit only one man at a time, and that ftooping, into a magnificent round hall, with a flat floor of earth. From the top hung fomewhat like ilicles ; but from the fides feemed to fpring half ifieles, which, rifing from the height of five or fix foot to the dome, looked like the cluftered columns of Gothic architecture. The dome may be twenty-five foot high, and the hall is thirty foot in diameter. B b 2 From From the hall; I paffed on the lame level into a crooked gallery, in length about two hundred yards. It was feven or eight foot broad, and from fix to eight or ten high. The fides and top looked like dirty freeflone \ the floor was perfectly level, and, in mod places, miry to the ancles. Around us {tew an infinite number of fmall bats,* from which I defended myfelf by the lighted torch I carried in my hand. Many of thefe birds of darknefs clung by little hooks at their wings to the fides of the paffage, I might have gone farther, but declined it, Returning, I faw the entrance into another paifage, and felt a very fmall draft of air, which made our torches burn. This paffage, I was told, went a good way, and gave another outlet; but at a diflance reported fo great, that none of my guides had ever ventured to explore it. As I went in barefooted, I found the miry fluff ftick to my feet. Being very glutinous, it was not eafjly waflied off. To make faltpetre, they mix one meafure of this fluff with two of wood afhes; and then filter through it the water of which the faltpetre is made. The gunpowder they make here is very coarfe grained, and has but little llrength. Many of the countries above Boyan are Fubjeft to the Rajah of Boyan. He is a Mahometan, and his fubjects, called by the * Combe3 fays, in the caves of Mindano are bats as large as fowls, and that faltpetre is made of their excrement. On Sumatra are faltpetre caves, in the Sultan of Mocomoco's dominions. Mr. Terry, relidcnt of Cattown, in 1770, offtred to work, them ; but the governor and council of Fort Marlbro' gave him no encouragement. Magindano TO NEW GUINEA* Magindano people, Oran Selam de Oolo (inland Muffulmen), may be about twenty thoufand males. While I was at Magrridano; the Rajah of Boyan paid4a vifit to Rajah Moodo. He had an iron gun, at leaf! a fix pounder, in a large fampan or canoe. All his boats were covered; and numerous were his attendant?, male and female; the former armed with fword^ ihield, and lance. All day they were afhore at Rajah Moodo s ; but at night retired to their canoes. The vifit Lifted a week. The fight of us feemed to ftrike furprife. In cafe of war, the Rajah of Boyan is obliged to fupply Magindano with a certain number of men. The Rajah of Boyan can have no connexion with any body out of the river, without leave of Magindano. As all egrefs muft be by water, the Sultan has him in a manner locked- up ; unlefs indeed he go by the lake Buloan, and the harbour of Sugud Boyan, between which is a communication by land over a flat country; as will be fhown hereafter. About twenty miles above Coto Intang, where, I am told, the tide" runs little or nothing, the grounds are overflowed, as in all fimilar flat countries, during the wet feafon. There, the grounds are richer than/ Where the water runs off with the tide, and afford a much greater in-creafe of rice. At Coto Intang they plant rice in May and June, and reap when the dry feafon begins, which is in November, I77S- May, CHAP- CHAPTER III. Defcription of the Coafl of Magindano, Weft of the Bar of the Rivet Pelangy—Harbour of Kamaladan—Farther Defcription of the Coaft. ABOUT eight miles to the northward of Magindano bar, on the right (or Kawannan) looking down the river, is the hill of Pollock; which is remarkable, not on account of its height, but as it ftands on a promontory, at the end of a neck of land, which is a kind of peninfula. The natives call the point Watta Maliga, or red ftone ; between it and the bar of the Pelangy, the river Semoy difembogues itfelf into the fea. Here the coaft is ftecper than to the fouthward of the Pelangy. The hill of Pollock is peaked, but is not above two hundred foot high. Behind it is the noble harbour of Sugud or Pollock.* The word Sugud mean6 harbour, and it is fo called by way of eminence. There can hardly be a better, as is obvious from the chart accompanying this account, made from the information of my two officers, who were in it, myfelf having been fick at the time; as alfo from the chart publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple. Next is the river Sampanitan, and next to it Tukapangan or Pangan point: here the Illano, or II-lanon diftricls begin. Next is the fmall harbour of Lubugan, the depth five and fix faihom muddy ground : it is open only from the W. by S. to the W. by N. but a reef on the north fide fo breaks the little * Plate XVIII. fea fea that can come in, that the harbour is tolerably good, though not to compare with Pollock harbour on the eaft, or with Tetyan harbour on the weft of it. About a mile to the weflward of the faid harbour of Lubugan, ftands a village, called Lufine. In palling, I obferved it palifadoed round. The points Tukapangan, Banegan, and Matimus,. (fait) may be approached in fafcty. The harbour of Tetyan, or Bridge harbour,* is fo called from the fmall ifland bring joined to the main by a kind of natural pier, juft covered at high water. Near it is the village Bungabung, walhed by a fmall river, with a tolerably fmooth bar, if it do not blow hard from the weftward. Frefh water is to be got a little way up the river j the bar is almoft dry at low water. ^mjxlmwm Muom %o izsh boos & ?d 03 anrml siofh " yv ,a There is no danger in entering the harbour of Tetyan, but what may be feen. Keep the land on board boldly, and round barrel rock : a fhip of any fize may lie behind the peninfula. Here refides the Rajah of Bungabung, From this, the coaft, trending away to the northward, affords no harbour until the ifland of Ebus, called Bos in Mr. Dalrymple's chart j and here the country makes a very agreeable and rural figure. The land rifes gently from a beach of dark coloured fand, and exhibits many cleared fpots beautifully intermixed with trees. Some miles weft of Bungabung, the ground for about a mile from the beach, appears black and ftony ; and for a mile or two along the fea fide, fhows very httle verdure. Of this I the more particularly take notice, as it is un- • Plate XVIII. and XX. ufual ufua! In a Malay country; and as it gives me an opportunity of relating the manner in which it is faid to have happened. About ten years ago, one * of the mountains, fix or feven miles inland from this part of the coaft, broke out into fire and fmoke, with all the fury of a Volcano. It ejected fuch a quantity of ftones, and black fand, as covered great part of the circumjacent country, for feveral foot perpendicular. Large ftones loaded many places, even at the fea fide; and at Tubug, near Pulo Ebus, I have feen frefti fprings burft out, (at low water) from amongft black ftones, of many tons weight, in various parts of that dry harbour. I was told that a river was formerly there, where is not the leaft appearance of one now. At prefent there feems to be a good deal of mould intermixt with the black fand, which is favourable to vegetation,; and the country hereabouts is now covered with long grafs, called lalang. In fome places are reeds eighteen foot high, in others low trees and bufhes. This varied landfcape has an afpeel: the more peculiarly pleafing from the fea, that Malay countries in general, from Atcheen-head, to New Guinea, are burdened with unintermitted woods. Here, in time, a wood may reappear: for, in any warm country, alternate rain and fun-fhine, with few long dry intervals, muft greatly promote vegetation. During the eruption of the Volcano, the black fand was driven to Mindano, the afties as far as Sooloo, which is about forty leagues • This mountain appears in the circular view of Bunwoot. Combefes account of Mindano, p. 9, mention* a dreadful eruption before 1667 ; it was heard as far as Manila, alfo at Ternate. diftant; diftant i and the Illanon diftricts fufFered fo much, that many colonies Went to Sooloo, even to Tampaflbok and Tawarran, on the weft coaft of •Borneo, in fearch of a better country, where many of them live at this day,* The dry harbour of Tubug, about two miles fouth of the ifland Ebus, is the chief place for afTembling Mangaio or piratical prows. It is about twenty-eight miles N. by W. of the bar of the Pelangy. Not fifty yards from the harbour, on an eminence ftands the houfe of the Rajah, ftrongly palifaded round ; and mounted with twenty brafs fwivel guns, carrying each a ball about a pound weight: all the guns were Spanifh. There are alfo many iron guns, very large, but mounted on bad carriages, placed on rotten platforms. The fwivel guns were ftuck into the pofts, that came up to the windows. About two miles farther north is the village Brafs, on a beautiful river, oppofite Ebus.-j- This ifland is about half a mile from Brafs, and, by its fituation, keeps the bar of Brafs ever fmooth. Ebus, in circuit about a mile and half, or two miles, confifts of pleafant hills covered with long grafs, and has but very few trees. Towards the fea, it is bounded by an almoft perpendicular rock, at leaft a hundred foot high. It has good water, and feveral gardens of fweet potatoes. This ifland forms within it, a harbour large enough for a fleet of fhips of any fize: they may lie in five and fix fathom, almoft clofe to the ifland. • In the Sooloo capital, called Bowan, is a quarter where fome Iflanon inhabit* t Plate XX. What What I am going to fay farther of the coaft of Magindano, to the weftward and northward, is chiefly from the information of Fakymo-lano; except the account of Kamaladan harbour, which is from my own obfervation. From the ifland of Ebus, the coaft trends to the northward, into the great Illano bay; but I fhall name the Illano diftricls,* from Tuka-pangan point, where I have faid they begin. Bungabung in Tetyan harbour; the Rajah's title Balabagan—Lala-buan—Tubug. Brafs over againft the ifland Ebus, behind which is a harbour already mentioned. Lamitan—Se Leangan—Se Maruga—Da-goloan—Kalibon—Pekulang—Tukoran.—Here refides the Sultan Bu-zar, who is head of the above named diftri&s: but I never was farther than Brafs and Ebus. At Tukoran, the Illano boundary ends, and the Magindano diftricls begin again; of which fome are crown lands. Dupulifan—Labangan—Miaflin—Dinas, belonging to the prefent Sultan —Lukuvan — Babudy — Gaflakan—-Tabina—Tambatuan, near Point de Flechas,*t' fometimes named Baganean Point, which is about feven leagues E. S. E. of the little ifland called Malebagas, at the entrance into the harbour of Kamaladan. * A fifh with valuable teeth being eaft afhore in the Illanon diftri&s, the Mindanoers afferted their fovereignty of the whole coaft, feixing the fifh by force of arms. f Some have told me that Point de Flechas, and Baganean Point, are two different but adjacent points. Many TO NEW GUINEA. Many of the countries above mentioned, belong to the family or branches of the family of Magindano. The inhabitants hold their pofleflions by a kind of feudal tenure, being vaflals to their lords. The diftri&s I have named, are all on the fea coaft. About feven leagues W. N. W. of the Point Baganean, opens the fpacious harbour of Kamaladan, governed by Datoo Ailem, brother in law to the Rajah Moodo. His place of relidence is called Se Tappo. Ten miles S. S. W. of the harbour, lies the ifland of Lutangan. I am apt to think this the ifland named St. Iago, in a Spanifh ma-nufcript map, exhibited by Mr. Dalrymple. It belongs to Rajah Moodo, and abounds with cattle. I have coafted the eaft, fide of it, where I found irregular foundings, and fhoal water two or three miles from the more. I lhall now give a defcription of the harbour of Kamaladan. * Having palled Baganean Point, which lies in latitude 70 25', you will fee the iflet of Malibagas: when it bears N. W. or S. E, it is like a jocky's cap. When it bears eafl: two miles, you will difcover a point bearing north, which makes the S. E. part of the harbour of Kamaladan. At the fame time, or perhaps fooner, according to the height of the fhip, clearnefs of weather, ccc. you will perceive fome rocks, juft above water, bearing N. N. W. About N. by E. from this fpot of * Plate XXL C c 2 rocks, rockf, and two miles diftant, are two iflands; one in fize about the third of the other. I left both the iflands and the fpot of rocks, on the right, failing through a wide and clear channel, with nineteen and twenty fathom water, muddy ground. There fccms alfo to be a very fair channel on the other fide of the rocks, and of the two iflands. Having paffed thefe iflands, you may fteer N. and N. by W. for tho town Se Tappo, avoiding the weft fliore, where is a fhoal, a little way off. Incredible is the quantity of fmall oyfters to be had in this harbour, on the rocks, at low water. I now return to the defcription of the coaft of Magindano weftward, learnt from Fakymolano. Beyond the ftrait parting the ifland Lutangan and the main, which ftrait is faid to be fhallow, and unpaflable by fhips, lies the ifland Pan-dalufan ; to the northward runs a very bad fhoal. You then pafs the ifland of Batian, into the bay of Sebugy. Here provifions of all kinds are much cheaper than at Mindano; and here are built many flout veftlls, good timber being in great plenty. Sebugy is in the jurifdic-tion of Rajah Moodo. Near Sebugy is a pretty large lake; alfo a fmall river, of which a certain portion is hot, the water being cold above and below it. Having palled Sebugy, you come to Selanfan, the river Tapila, and the harbour of Sampang Mangaio. Oppofite to Tapila is the pretty high ifland of Buloan, faid to have a harbour behind it; and farther on is the ifland of Bangahan or Ban-gan, refembling alfo Ebus; reported to have a harbour behind it. Still Still more to the weftward is the river Tikboo, and the country of Bi-talyj whofe lord or fuperior, is Oran Caio Sampangady, of the family of Mindano. Then you come to the river Curuan, boafting much gold * and clear extended plains of grafs, abounding with deer : over againft Curuan are fome fmall iflands, behind which the anchoring is good. Behind Curuan is high land, of great extent. After Curuan comes Panabigan, where is a hill, that produces brim-ftone. Here is the Spanifh boundary. Next to Panabigan is the Spa-nifh Saboan Padang, and then Samboangan. Samboangan is the moft confiderable fortrefs the Spaniards have on this ifland. It is built of mafonry, and has a high wall, clofe to the fea. It is not very capacious, the church and many of the houfes being without the walls; but the cannon of the fort commands them, and can fo far oppofe any approach, that may be made that way by an enemy. There is a clear plain, of fome extent, towards the land. A fwamp alfo on one fide of the fort, adds to its ftrength. Towards the fea is no harbour, only an open road; but many iflands, around, make the road a very gcod one. On fome of thofe iflands, the Spaniards keep a breed of hogs. The tides on the fprings are pretty ftrong in the ofling, and the paffage between Samboangan and the ifland Bafilan, which belongs to Soo- * Zacharias, governor of Samboangan, is reported to have got in Curuan river, nine catties (20 ounces each) of gold duft, in twenty days, with a hundred men. The chief places for gold, under Magindano, are Curuan, Tikboo, Labangan, Tubuan, and Eu, near Kalagan. Under the Spaniards are, Emilou, Cagayan, Suligow, Capafahan, huluan, Adon, Ebon, Leangan, and Epunant loo> *98 A V O Y AGE *7W» loo, being narrow, the Spaniards prevent Chinefe junks from patting i——this way to Magindano, The garrifon is faid to confift of about forty or fifty American Spaniards, a few native Spaniards, and about a hundred Bifayans, or natives of the Philippines. Their pay is two Spanifh dollars a month; but provifions are reafonable, though not fo abundant as in fome of the Philippine iflands. The Spaniards at Manila tranfport convicts to Samboangan, as England did to America. A little way beyond Samboangan is a fmall harbour, called the Kal-dera. Rajah Moodo has taken from the Spaniards, in fome late wars, certain places to the northward of Samboangan, called Sebuky, Sedoway, and Seuky. Thefe places remain in his pofTeflion. They are faid to produce much caflia. Next to Seuky is the Spanifh fort of Dapitan, built on a hill, by the fea fide, and fo at leaft, naturally ftrong. Eaft: of Dapitan is the point of Batafonkil; and, farther on, about five leagues, lies Mifamis, at the entrance of the bay of Siddum or Panguyl,as it is called in a Spanifh manufcript chart, publifhed by Mr. Dalrymple. This bay is of great depth, in a perpendicular direction, right inland from the north coaft of Magindano, Many fmall rivers difcharge themfelves TO NEW GUINEA, themfelves into it; and in thofe creeks the Illano cruifers conceal themfelves from the Spanifh guarda coftas. One of the rivers is called Infyawan, and runs from the foot of a very high hill in the Illano country, into the bay of Siddum. A little beyond the eafl: part of the coaft, that maker the entrance into this deep bay of Siddum, is the town of Eligan, which contains about a hundred and fifty houfes. The river, on which Eligan ftands,. comes from the great Lano, in the Illano country; of which more hereafter.- Beyond Eligan is Cagayan, where is faid to be a very good harbour^, that of Eligan being not fo recommended. Cagayan fort is of ftone towards the land, and of wood towards the fea. Within it are reckoned above one hundred houfes ; and, without it, near three hundred. At Cagayan is alfo a confiderable river, which goes far up into the country. The country is faid to produce gold : and the Bifayans on the coaft, who are Chriftians, live on a friendly footing with the Mahometan mountaineers, as well as with the Haraforas. Almoft due north of Cagayan, is the ifland of Camagian ; where is-much trade for wax, gold, cocoa, and cafiia. Next is Buluan, which has a good harbour, and a river that comes from a lake. Then Banaka's Point. A little way beyond it lies Suli-gow or Surigow: this is the ifland of Mindano's N. E. point, with a good A VOYAGE good road in cither monfoon. Here are a fort and town; alfo a river from a lake. In the offing, where the paffage is narrow, between the Philippines and Mindano, the tides are faid to run ftrong. * Next lies Catil, which has a fort; thenTandag, which had a fort j hut it was taken and burnt by the people of Magindano, not twenty years ago : many Spaniards and Bifayans perifhed in the flames, as they would not accept of quarter. Both Tandag and Catil have bad roads in the N. E. monfoon, becaufe they lie on the windward part of the ifland at that feafon. Here ends the Spanifh jurifdidtion, and begins the great diftricT: of Kalagan, which is under Magindano 5 and of which farther mention will be made. * This I learnt from Mr. Grior, who experienced it in the fhip Royal Captain, where the tide broke the palls (keys) of the capfhn. CHAP. 11.18 Map ofi/tr IszAJsrn an of Magindano 'ivtl>[ \ 11 ^'Tb nil [arbour 34 or fo,t Sh'o # -------------»z9 Bl^WO OT p'o *4 Coi.rA & tr/'tAVLo//v 7'/rr.J 'J &o W//A//'>,/,,, So Scale of" 2£Uej. ** r2o 0ft nfi> !, Moors, or rather the Arabs, came to it, about three hundred , J^aIl years ago. The country was perhaps then in the fame flate as that part now, which is inhabited by the Haraforas. The following fhort account of the hiflory of Magindano, is drawn from original records, in the pofTefTion of Fakymolano, elder brother to Paharadine the prefent Sultan, and father to Kybad Zachariel, the prefent Rajah Moodo; they are wrote in the Magindano tongue, and Arabic character. I took it down from Fakymolano's own mouth* who dictated in Malay. Before the arrival of Serif Alii,* the firft Mahometan prince who came from Mecca to Magindano, the latter had kings of her own. For the towns of Magindano, Selangan, Catibtuan, and Semayanan had, or ailumed, the right of taking from the banks of the Dano, that portion of earth, on which the foveivigns were to be confecrated; a ceremony already hinted in the geography of Magindano. * Combes in his account of Magindano, written in Spanifh about the year 1667, fays little or nothing of the princes of the ifland ; only that they were of the falfe religion. D d The A V O Y A G E "775- The towns of Malampyan and Lufuden, are faid to have been the May. J W-v^J firft who joined Serif Alii: the other four foon acceded. Serif married a daughter of the laft king of the royal line, and on this marriage founded his title to the crown.* His fon was Mahomet Kabanfuan, whofe fon was Makallan, the father of Bankaio. Bankaio had two fons, BuuTan, furnamed Captain Laut, who fuc-ceeded him ; and Salicola. About the time that Kabanfuan fon of Serif Alii reigned, a perfon named Budiman, was Pangaran of Sooloo. Budiman had a grandfon, who became his fucceiTbr; his name was Bonfoo, and he was related to the family that governed at Borneo: which family came alfo from Mecca, and the head of it was brother to Serif Alii. Bonfoo had two children; a daughter, Potely, by a wife; and a fon, Bakliol, by a fandle or concubine. Bakliol, the baftard, robbed his filler Potely of her right, threw off his dependance on Magindano, and afTumed the title of Sultan, his forefathers having been only Pangarans j* of Sooloo. Solicola married Bakliol's fitter, Potely (a word which fignifies prin-cefs, or lawful daughter to a man of great quality) and had iffue, one * Plate XXII. f Pangaran, a title much ufed on Sumatra, and inferior to Sultan or Rajah. daughter, TO NEW GUINEA, daughter, named Panianamby. Panianimby married Kudarat, fon to Buiflan, the Captain Laut already mentioned, who was her firft couiin, •Kudarat had ilTue, Tidoly and Dolidy. Tidoly fuccecdcd his father* and had two fons, Abdaraman and Kuddy. Abdaraman married Sembafin, the daughter of Maholanding, an Illano prince's fon: Maholanding had married Timbang-Sa-Riboo (weigh a thoufand) daughter of the king of Sangir. Abdaraman had feveral fons. Seid M>fTat fucceeded him\ but, being an infant, Kuddy his uncle ufurped the government, and went to Semoy, carrying with him the effects of the deceafed Sultan. Thence he invited the Sooloos to fupport him againfl the lawful heir. The Sooloos, ufing fmaller prows or vefTels than the Magindano people, eafily got into Semoy river, where the bar is fmooth, though mallow. Finding Kuddy there, with only a 'fmall force, they cut him off, and plundered his camp; and, as they were carrying away fome pieces of cloth, they faid fcoffingly to his attendants, Surely you won't grudge thefe to cover the body of your dead king. By this treacherous act, the Sooloos pofTefTed themfelves of a great many pieces of heavy cannon, which Kuddy had tranfportcd from Magindano to Semoy, The Sooloos being returned home with their booty, Seid Moffat's party got the afcendant; but, the civil war had fo diffracted the flate, that he never had domeflic peace. The Sooloos, confcious of their ini- D d 2 quity, May. A VOYAGE quity, and fearful of the refentment of Magindano, who, lliould me have exerted her force againfl their fmall ifland, would again have brought it into fubjection, took pains to foment her difturbances. Sa-haboodine and Badaroodine, brothers and fons of Bakliol, and Ban-tillan, Sahaboodine's fon, then governed the councils of Sooloo. Annuel, younger brother to Seid Moffat, was fupported by the Sooloo party againfl him; and, after many fklrmifhes, where both fides were much weakened, Seid Moffat was affaffinated by Molenu, the fon of Annuel. Seid Moffat left two fons, Fakymolano, * father to Kybad Zachariel, the prefent Rajah Moodo, and Paharadine, the prefent Sultan. Fakymolano and his brother were obliged to leave Magindano, and to retire a few miles to the banks of the Tamantakka,. The country then fuffered much. The great palace at the town was firfl plundered, and then burnt. In the conflagration, many of the houfes of Magindano were deflroyed ; alfo great part of the town of Selangan. The groves of coco nut trees were alfo moflly deflroyed; as being convenient, and at hand, to make palifades for temporary forts. After a tedious defultory war, of feveral years continuance, Molenu being worfled, fled up the Pelangy to Boyan. Fakymolano then got * I have feen a letter from the King of Spain, directed to Fakymolano, King of Tamantakka, defiring him, amongft other things, to permit the preaching of the Chrif-tian Faith, His Catholic Majefty avoids giving the title of Sultan of Mindano, poffefTion TO NEW GUINEA. pofFefTion of all the lands about Magindano, and peace was made foon after, about thirty years ago. Molenu died a natural death, leaving by concubines, two fons, Topang and Uku, alfo a natural daughter Myong. Fakymolano had about this time given up the Sultanftiip to his younger brother Paharadine, on condition that Kybad Zachariel, his ' own fon, mould be elected Rajah Mojdo. Topang and Uku, for fome time after the peace, vifited Fakymolano and his fon; but, afterwards, on Pharadine's marriage with Myong, their lifter, they grew fhy, as the Sultan took them greatly into his favour, Topang had from his father large pofTeflions, which made him formidable to Rajah Moodo; he was alfo clofely connected with the Sooloos, and had married Gulaludine's daughter of Bantillan, once Sultan of SooloO. By this time Rajah Moodo had got himfelf well fortified at Coto-Intang,* which is within mufket fhot of the Sultan's palace, and within cannon fhot of the ftrong wooden cattle of Topang; both of which lie on the fouth fide of the Pelangy. The Sultan Paharadine has no children by his confort Myong; but had by a concubine, a fon named Chartow, now arrived at maturity. Whether Myong, who is faid to have entirely governed the Sultan, favoured Chartow, or her elder brother Topang, is uncertain; but * Diamond Fort. fhe »77S- May. 206 A VOYAGE T77?» me was believed the caufe of the coolnefs that prevailed between the May. -J Sultan and Rajah Moodo j who, though duly elected, and acknowledged lawful fucceffor, yet, when I came to Magindano, in May, 1775, had not vifited his uncle for above a year. Fakymolano, Rajah Moodo's father, lived, at that time, juft without the gate of his fon's fort,* CHAP- CHAPTER V. Arrival at Coto Intang—"Reception by Rajah Moodo—Vijit the Sultan1 — Mijiinderjlanding with Tuan Hadjee, wJho/e People I di-charge—Set about decking, and otherivife repairing the Vefjel—Vifit the Ifland Ebus —Write to the Sultan of Sooloo—Invited* to ftp with Rajah Moodo—• Devotion of the Crew of a Mangaio Prow- Sultan of Sooloos Anfwer— Tuan Hadjee quits Mindano abruptly—Method of making Salt—Vijit the Ifland Bunwoot, - ON Friday the 5th of May, 177s* * entered the river Pelangy, as has been faid. Having got about two miles within the bar, I was vifited by a boat from Rajah Moodo, who had learnt by fome fmall canoe, the arrival of a veffel, with Englifh colours. Datoo Enty, a natural fon of Rajah Moodo, was in the boat. He invited me ftrongly to go to his father's fort, Coto Intang, and not to the Sultan's. I told him, I could not then determine to which I fhould go firft, but that, certainly, I would wait upon his father, Rajah Moodo. Datoo Enty, and one of his attendants flept on board the galley that night; his boat being made faft aftern. I treated them with tea and fago bread. About feven next morning, by favour of the flood tide, got in fight of the town of Selangan, and immediately after I faw a white enfign, fign, bordered with a checker of blue, yellow, and red, hoifted on a flag ftafT, in a wooden fort, palifaded. with very ftrong piles, and fitu-ated in the fork, where the river Melampy ftrikes off to the right, from the Pelangy. Datoo Enty told me, that was his father's fort.; repeating his initances, that I would pafs the Sultan's, and go thither directly. At this time, being near abreaft of the Sultan's fort, where juft fuch colours as before defcribed, were hoifted, a Buggefs man (whom I had known at Balambangan, Noquedah of a trading prow) came on board, and told me, from the Sultan, that Balambangan was taken by the Sooloos; faying alfo, that I had much better ftop there, than^go to Coto Intang. The caution he gave with an air of myftery, expecting it would work on my fears. I lay upon my oars for a moment, in which time the flood tide carried me abreaft of the Sultan's. I anchored, and faluted with five guns, which were returned. I then inflantly weighed, on which the Buggefs Noquedah went afhore ; the flood tide prefently 'bringing me up to Coto Intang, I faluted with five guns; and thefe •were alfo returned. The veflel clofe to the fliore, it being high water, I ftepped out; and was welcomed to Mindano by Datoo Bukkalyan, brother in law to Rajah Moodo. Having walked about a hundred yards into the fort, I found Rajah Moodo, and his father, Fakymolano, feated on European chairs : they received received me very gracioufly; alfo Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers. Nor can I but acknowledge, in juflice to Tuan Hadjee, that it was greatly owing to his advice, that I pafTed the Sultan's, and landed here firil. Rajah Moodo was a man of good flature, piercing eye, and aquiline nofe; Molano, of low flature, fmiling countenance, and communicative difpofition.—Chocolate was prefently ferved. After fome little con-verfation, I told Rajah Moodo, that I had a letter from the chief of Balambangan for the Sultan, with a prefent, which I propofed to deliver that day. He faid, it was very well, that his brother in law fhould accompany me thither; and immediately ordered the boats. I crofTed the Melampy at ten o'clock, and, after waiting in the Sultan's hall, about fifteen minutes, I beheld his entrance. The Sultan can fpeak good Malay; but chofe to converfe with me by an interpreter, the Buggefs Noquedah before mentioned. After delivering my letter and prefent, the Sukan declared me fafe at Magindano, whether on his fide the river, or on Rajah Moodo's; adding, that Rajah Moodo was to be his fucceffor. We were then treated with chocolate, on a table, decently covered with European broad cloath. The Sultan, Rajah Moodo's brother, and I, fat on chairs ; the interpreter on a flool. He invited me to come often and fee him; and, after afking him many indifferent queflions, fufTered me to take my leave. Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian oflicers did not come with me, but paid their vifit in the afternoon. By the frefh foutherly winds all day long, I found the S. W. or rainy monfoon, was fet in. E e Three Three days afterwards I paid a vifit to the Sultan. Myong, the Sultana, at the far end of a long room, did not deign to eafl a look upon me. On taking leave, the Buggefs linguifl afked me, when I had got into the flreet, if I chofe to vifit Datoo Chartow, the Sultan's natural fon ; as I was afraid of giving offence to Rajah Moodo by fuch a flep, I excufed myfelf. From that time, to the beginning of Auguft, though I frequently crofled the Melampy, to wait on the Sultan, I declined going to the houfes of Chartow, or Topang, knowing that Rajah Moodo was jealous of them both. The Sultan had the character of a weak man ; and Rajah Moodo, being in pofTefTion of the crown lands, which his father Molano had made over to him, when he refigned the Sul-tanfhip to his brother, held the finews of power, Paharadine's own lands not being fo confiderable. I knew myfelf a flranger to their manners and cufloms, and was unwilling to rifk intercourfe with perfons of their rank, in whofe company, I made no doubt, but a political topic would have been ftatcd fooner or latter, by adherent or dependant, in order to draw from me an anfwer, that might entangle me in the fequel; it requiring no penetration to perceive that, being idle, they were fond of politics, news, and every kind of fmall talk. They in general fpeak Malay j and what might have paffed in converfation with Chartow or Topang, had I accepted of their invitations, which were frequent, would probably have been handed about with alterations, according to the fancy of the relater. I had T O N E W G U I N E A. 2U I had a profpect of flaying among them many months, until the 1775. monfoon mould fhift for my return to Borneo, whither I heard the v-^ Englifh had retired, after quitting Balambangan : for had I pretended to encounter the monfoon, I fhould, in all probability, have been obliged to put into Sooloo. Various was, therefore, my ground of circumfpedtion ; particularly, when I underftood the jealoufies and heartburnings among them. Rajah Moodo, to whom I luckily attached myfelf at firft, lodged me very well in his own fort, and hauled up my veffel PR. tuc dry land. He, on all occafions, fhowed me civility, and gave me afMance. Befides, his court* (if I may fo call it) was crouded, in comparifon of the Sultan's; which demonftrated to me his fuperior power. I fhould therefore have probably left the country, without feeing either the Datoo Chartow, or Topang, if an unexpected reconciliation had not happened between the Sultan's and Rajah Moodo's family ; which (hall, in its place, be related. As matters flood then, had I gone but once to their houfes, I could not afterwards have figni-fied, what I fometimes, as by accident, did in the hearing of Rajah Moodo, that I had never feen Topang or Chartow; and I had reafons to think on thofe occafions, that he was not difpleafed with what he he heard. * Every perfon entitled to fit down, is treated with chocolate : but Kanakans, (vaf-fals) meflengers, and others, lean on their knees, while they deliver what they have ta (ay ; and then retire. E c z 2i2 A VOYAGE ^77S- Fakymolano, whofe houfe flood juft without his fon Rajah Moodo's ( L->-0 fort, was almofl every day at breakfaft with him. He had acquired a great character for wifdom and bravery, during the late civil wars; and had brought them to a happy conclufion. But from the weaknefs of his brother's government, who was entirely governed by Myong, many frefti diflurbances were expected. On the roth, Rajah Moodo, with his father Fakymolano, did me the honour of a vifit; and prefented me with a young bullock. Rain in the night. Next day fair weather; dug a dock for the veflel, againfl the enfuing fpring tides. Doing this piece of duty, I found Tuan Hadjee's people very unruly, fupported no doubt, in their difobedience, by their mafter, who feemed much changed in his behaviour to fince allured of the taking of Balambangan, which to day, the 12th, was confirmed. In the afternoon, the Banguey corocoro arrived under Batchian colours. Abreaft of Rajah Moodo's fort, the crew took the Opportunity of playing with their paddles, throwing them up into the air, and catching them by their handles as they fell. When fhe was fecured along fide of the fort, I fent and caufed Englifh colours to be hoifted upon her; at which Tuan Hadjee looked difpleafed. To day, the 13th, I fent to cut fago leaves for covering the galley. Had frefh foutherly winds. Wrote a letter to Rajah Moodo, acquainting him, I was bound to Balambangan, there to hoift Englifh colours; and afked fome people from him, as I thought to get rid of Tuan Hadjee and his tumultuous crew. Rajah Moodo foon after paid me a vifit, and excufed himfelf, alledging that fuch a flep might caufe a mifun-derftanding between Magindano and Sooloo. Tuan Hadjee was prefent fent at this converfation, and took an opportunity of faying before Rajah Moodo and his father, in a flighting manner, that he was not at all obliged to the Englifh Company, but that he had greatly aflifled them. I told him,, in the fame prefence, that I apprehended he was Captain of Buggefles, in the Englifh Company's fervice, and that as fuch, he had received pay. This vifibly provoked him, but he durfl: not contradict me. Fakymolano and his fon fmiled at this little altercation. Next day I paid off and difcharged all Tuan Hadjee's vaffale and dependants.—Tuan Imum the priefl, who feldom minded any orders, but was always very obfequious to his mafler j Saban a ready fellow, very dextrous at cutting down a tree and making oars-or - pad* dies : he and Marudo, another ufeful fellow, were Gilolo Cofifres and flavcs to Tuan Hadjee. Abdaraman, a Gilolo Kanakan : a capricious young man, who fometimes ftaid on board the galley, and fometimes in the corocoro, being under no command: Andrew, a good quiet flave, that Tuan Hadjee had borrowed: and laflly, Dya, a fulky, morofe rafcal of the Malay colour, with long hair; one I never liked, as he ufed to relate adventures that redounded very little to his credit, and, at the time when there was a demur at Tomoguy, about our proceeding to New Guinea, affected to fleep, as I was told by Mr. Baxter, with his crefs ready drawn by his fide. The goods I had advanced Tuan Hadjee in Ef-be harbour, balanced great part of their pay; as alfo what was due to Eve Batchians, who had been upon wages, ever fince the lofs of the Borneo corocoro. At the fame time, being in pofTeffion of Tuan BufTora's flave and wearing apparel, as he was a Molucca man, I delivered every article to Tuan Hadjee before wit-neiTes. On On the 15th, in fettling accounts with Tuan Hadjee, I was greatly -aftoniflied to find he claimed the Banguey corocoro as his own. It is true he made the purchafe at Tomoguy, on our joint account, and, as an indulgence to him, I permitted him to be half concerned ; but I had advanced him full one half of the purchafe, fhe having been bartered for goods. I told him, as he and I had lived fo long together without the leaf!; difpute, I was refolved at this time to have none; and defired the affair might be fettled by Rajah Moodo.—Accordingly it was brought before him, and the calicoes, &c. advanced by Tuan Hadjee and by me for her purchafe and equipment, fo nearly balanced, that half of her was adjudged mine. Tuan Hadjee, by his looks, fpoke his difappointment; and, on my telling him, he muft either fell me his half, or purchafe mine; whether he thought I meant to impofe on him, or did not underftand my propofal, for the firft time, I obferved him grow angry, which, confidering in whofe prefence we were, doubly amazed me. Nay, he went fo far as to fay, to the amazement of every one, billa corocoro, ttda mow bili, tida mow jual, fplit the corocoro, I will neither buy nor fell. Senfible that Tuan Hadjee, fince our laft arrival, wanted to part with me; and fufpecling from what had happened on the 13th, when he fpoke flightingly of the Englifh, that he was capable of ingratiating himfelf with Rajah Moodo at my expence, I feized the opportunity of mortifying him, for the rafhnefs of his laft exprefiion. As it put me in mind of the judgement of Solomon, I told that memorable ftory to the no fmall entertainment of the company: upon which Tuan Hadjee got up, and, without making the ordinary felam, went abruptly out of the hall. Next Next day Tuan Hadjee being in a better humour, I fettled with him> and purchafed his half of the corocoro. On the 17th, fome nutmeg plants, which Mr. Baxter had preferved with great care, were taken out of his apartment. Thofe were found to have been taken by fome of Tuan Hadjee's followers, and prefented to Rajah Moodo, in Tuan Hadjee's name. Mr. Baxter made a heavy complaint, telling me he had given fome cloth to one of Tuan Hadjee's people at Manafwary ifland, for gathering them. I informed him it was a delicate affair, advifing him to fay nothing about it ; and he followed my advice.—* The nutmeg plants I had brought from New Guinea, having been touched by fait water, were fpoiled : thofe, of which Mr. Baxter was thus deprived, were in better prefervation. I faw them afterwards growing in the garden of Rajah Moodo. On Tburfday the 18th, I fignified to Rajah Moodo, that I had fomething to fay to the Batchian officers, which 1 wifhed to impart in his prefence. They were accordingly fent for, and Tuan Hadjee came with them. Fakymolano was alfo prefent at this meeting in Rajah Moodo's hall. I addreffed Tuan Bobo, and Tuan AfTahan, acknowledging how much I was obliged to them, for fo far accompanying me, and alluring them, that were it in my power, it was greatly my inclination, to reward them as they deferved. I regretted that, being far from any Englifh fettlement, and likely to flay at Mindano fome months, all I could do was to prefent them with the Banguey corocoro, to fup-ply, in fome degree, the one they had loft on the coafl of New Guinea ^ adding,, A VOYAGE adding, if they propofed returning to Batchian, I would do them farther juflice, in writing by them to the Sultan. They thanked me for the prefent of the corocoro; but avoided intimating whither they intended to go, I plainly perceived, they in every thing were directed by Tuan Hadjee, who on this occafion fpoke not a word. I had, however, the pleafure to hear Rajah Moodo, and Jiis father, exprefs fatisfaction at what I had done. On Friday the 19th, Rajah Moodo did me the honour of a vifit, and non vocavi. To Cecilian. Whate'cr is ferv'd, thou fweepeft tliine : The parent's udder, porket's chine ; Heathcock for twain of focial foul; The mullet half, the fturgeon whole ; The lamprey's flank, the pullet's thigh ; The ringdove, dripping with her fry. When all within the napkin linoke, Thy boy bean home thz motley fake* We (tare reclin'd, an idle crew ! For thou haft left us nought to do. Rcftore, if yet be (hame or forrow, I did not a(k thee for to-morrow. F f 2 which A VOYAGE which iflues from the river Pelangy, about a mile and a half below the town of Selangan. In the evening, I received from the Sultan of Sooloo a letter, in which he laid the blame of the capture of Balambangan upon Datoo Tcting. I received a letter alfo from Datoo Alamoodine, with a prefent of fugar candy and jerked beef. Friday the 9th. Finding Tuan Hadjee about to go away, I allied him for his balance due to the Company; which he refufed to fettle. Saturday the 10th. Tuan Hadjee and the Batchian officers failed. Monday the 12th. Much rain. On the 14th, hauled the veflel upon the dry land, by means of a crab, or fmall capftan. I was told to day, that Turn Hadjee failed without taking leave either of Molano, or of Rajah Moodo 5 which gave great offence: he had taken leave of the Sultan only. Fakymolano, whom I had acquainted with his behaviour at Tomoguy, faid I was well rid of him. Friday the 16th. Fine weather, after much rain. On the 18th, one of my people having ftruck another in the prefence of Faky Molano, whom 1 imagined he did not fee, I put him in irons ; but re-* leafed him next day, at the requeft of Rajah Moodo. Had fine weather for a few days; then had continual rain for three days; then fair weather again, the wind blowing from the TO NEW GUINEA. the land every night, and generally frefh from the S. W. in the day. tfcednefddy the the 28th. Went over to the ifland Bunwoot, accompanied by Datoo Enty. Stopt all night juft without the bar of the Pelangy, at a village, whole inhabitants make fait in the following banner. They cut down a quantity of wood always near the fea fide, and rear over it a fort of fhed, of the leaves of'trees of the palm kind; fuch as the fago, the nipa, or others. This pile is then fet on fire; hut, as any flame iflues, they throw on fait water, to check it. hi this manner they continue, till the wood be confumed, there remain-Jng a quantity of athes ftrongly impregnated with fait. The (bed is-made to open and ihut, to let in funfhine, and keep oft rain. Thefe afhes they put into conical bafkets, point downwards ; and pour on frefh water, which carries off the fait into a trough. The lye is then put into earthen pots, and boiled till it become fometimes a lump of fait, fometimes fait in powder. They often burn in this manner feaweed, of which the athes make a bitter kind of fait. At M anila, fait is made as at Madrafs, by the heat of the fun and ^n'ght be fo at Mindano, during the N. E. monfoon ; but the people nave not yet got into the way. Tburfday the 29th. Found the ifland of Bunwoot in fome parts bordered with fharp pointed rocks, at the fea fide. It is all over covered A VOYAGE covered with tall timber; but is clear both of underwood, and cf grafs. Friday the 30th. Returned from Bunwoot. Until the 6th of July* we had rain, which prevented our working on the velfel fo much as I wiihed. From the 6th to the 9th, fair weather. Whilif. on the ifland Bunwoot, we faw feveral wild hogs, one of which I certainly wounded; but he carried off tne ball, being remarkably iuong and fwift. CHAP- Civ c ulat* Vie w ITbal Hake o iib , oh ike Nor til Fart of the JjSAA NI) B V.NWO O 7\ near ma g l["n"b.a"n «. l<0iv Water. 'IIn- S/i<,>/iff(,r ;t, /<>/>,■ /// ///<■ Centertttui A rir/r ///<' t/yj','/■,'/// i>/>/,•<-/.< A- /«/■/////./ /:///?. e. T»;/<>A'f >///// /:^///////////////// //. Nt////////)sr/<>t> /'///■//.'//<<,/ /'»' Ctyt* That /''croc/a* /fir dd ,/„;■<•/., n-Ji) CHAPTER VI. Account of Subudan Watamama—FIis Sicknefs and Death—Arrival of a Spanifh Envoy from Semboangan—Particular Account of a Mangaio Prow—Datoo Utuparts with his Wife Fatima—Rajah Moodo vifits the-: Sultan—Defcription of his Palace -Interview with Datoo Topang, QEid Moffat, bcfide Fakymolano, and Paharadine the prefent ,77f. ^ Sultan, had a natural fon named Palty. Palty was dead ; but nad left a fon, named Subadan, on whom was conferred, by Rajah Moodo's party, the title of Watamama. Subadan was not legally declared Watamama; nay, I have heard that Chartow and Topang treated with contempt his ailuming that title, and fpoke of him accordingly. He had married Faky Molano's daughter, his firft coufin, by whom he had a daughter, Fatima, who was married to Utu, a youth of fifteen, Rajah Moodo's fon, and her °Wn fecond coufin. Confidering the connexion Rajah Moodo had with Subadan Wata-mama, it was expected that, when the former came to be Sultan, the latter, waving his own right, would allow his fon-imlaw Utu to take the title of Rajah Moodo. On On the 7th of July, Subadan Watamama fell fick. His diforder. was an impofthume. Making him a vifit, I found him in the gi*eat hall, on a large bed, which feemed drcfled up for fhow, and had a number of flTk. bolftors, embroidered with gold at the ends, fome of which fupported the patient. The hall was full of vifitors, difperfed on the floor in companies of three and four together, each company fitting round a brafs falver, covered with faucers of fweet cakes and cups of chocolate. I obferved that many of this various company had their feet wafhed at the bottom of the flops, by a perfon pouring water on them, whilft they rubbed one foot againfl: the other. This ftruck me a little ; fo I pulled off my (hoes at the door. I then picked my way among the feveral companies, and went (looping with my right hand almoft to the ground, as is their cuitom, to avoid treading on their clothes. I fat down crofs legged near the foot of the bed on a clean m t, and afked the patient how he did. He feemed to be very low and feverifh. Fakymolano fat clofe by me, and afked me to pre-fcribe for the invalid. I told him a purgative would be of fervice; at the lame time, 1 taw a Chinefe lined fome green leaves, and then mix them up in a Lalcn, wiih common coco nut oil. The C > mefe approaching with his mixture the bed of the lick, the curtain was dropt; of which hang two rows, fometimes three, in the houies of perfons of rank, their beds being remarkably large. In the fame hall, not fir from me, fat an elderly woman, employed in cutting dices off a large cake of wax, with an inflrument heated at a charcoal fire, as one would flice a loaf of bread. Thefe thin pieces of wax were handed to another perfon, who immediately wrapt up in Jp each Dice a flrlp of white calico, about a foot in length. This rolled between two boards, became a very fmall wax candle to fupply the company. Having drank chocolate, I took my leave, accompanied by Molano. Next morning I went to vifit Watamama, with whom I found Molano, I carried with me a little medicine, mixed up in a bafon, and found his wife and his daughter Fatima attending him. The former would by no means allow him to tafte the medicine; notwithflanding her father urged it. At laft Fakymolano was pleafed to fay, Let you and me, Captain, drink this phylic I am certain it is good. So faying, he poured one half into another cup, and drank it off: I drank the remainder. Afternoon, when I faw Fakymolano, he milling, took me by the hand, and faid, Captain, your phyfic is very good. July the 27th, Watamama died. I was at work upon my little veffel, when I heard the difmal yell fet up by the females of the houfe, whilft I faw a number of meftengers from it, no doubt, to carry abroad the news. At the fame time, 1 heard the carpenters in his court yard redouble the ftrokes of their axes, in making his coffin of thick planks ftrongly dovetailed. They had indeed begun it two days before his death; but the ftrokes then were neither fo loud nor fo frequent; though, I am certain, the lick man muft have heard them. I had vifited him often, befide the time mentioned above; and I cannot help faying, he died in flate. 2*5 1775. '11 ■■ iji Early Early next morning, the coffin was carried empty to the grave in a burial place not two hundred yards from his houfe. About noon, the coarfe, covered with a white meet, was born out on the bedftead on which he died; part of the {lender wooden wall of the houfe being taken down to let it pafs. The bedftead was then, by bamboos under it, and about twelve umbrellas over the body, tranfported moftly by young men, his near relations, to the grave. The coarfe was then put into the grave, about five inches deep in the earth ; the itout coffin, without a bottom, was laid over it, and the earth thrown in, to about three foot above the upper part of the coffin. Then over all was poured water, from china decanters, their mouths being bound over with clean white calico, through which the water (trained. A great company attended the funeral j but no women. In the company was Chartow, who eyed me ftedfaftly. Neither Topang, nor his brother Uku, was there. From the time of Watamama* s death till his funeral, were fired many guns; but not regularly. During the funeral, with Rajah Moodo's permifnon, I fired half minute fwivels. Next day a kind of fhed was built over the grave; and, a temporary floor of boards being laid, the widow of the deceafed lived there about a week*; during which time, his more diftant relations made very merry at the houfe; feafting upon bullocks, which they kill but • I once vifited her under the fhed. She received me kindly, and fent home after me a piece of beef, about four pound weight. on on certain occafions. They alfo by book fang dirges in honour of the defunct, and for the repofe of his foul. All this while I was employed in decking the Tartar Galley, and repairing her bottom, into which the worm had got pretty deep in fome places. On the 9th, I finifhed the calking, and fixed to her a catwater. On the 12th, I heard at Rajah Moodo's, that an Englifh fhip had been at Sooloo, and that her bottom was covered with copper. This circumflance evinced the truth of the report. On the 20th, I finifhed the veffel's Item port, and got a mainmafl ready. We have had frefh weflerly winds in the day, with a good deal of rain ; and generally land winds in the night, for the mofl part of this month. On the 25th, came in a prow from the Spanifh fettlement of Samboangan, with an Envoy on board, who brought letters from the governor there to Rajah Moodo. This Sinior Huluan was a native of the Philippine Iflands, and in rank an enfign. During his flay, a ferjeant he brought with him, daily exercifed Rajah Moodo's guards, in the ufe of the mufket and bayonet. Thefe guards were captives from the Philippine Iflands, called Bifayan, and were in number thirty. The envoy, with his ferjeant and fix Manila foldiers, lodged without the fort. From this time to the end of the month, the weather grew fairer, with moderate weflerly winds. On the the 29th, my cook Panjang died of a flux. Great was my lofs of a faithful fervant, and much was he lamented by his fhipmates, confiderably decreafed fince my difcharging Tuan Hadjee's vaflals, in whofe place Rajah Moodo lent me people occafionally. I buried Panjang on the oppofite fide of the G g 2 river, river, and confoled myfelf with reflecting that he was the only perfon I had loft. On the 31ft,, came in a large prow belonging to Datoo Malfalla,. Rajah Moodo's brother in law, from a cruife on the coaft of Celebes. She had engaged a Dutch floop, and was about to board her, when the Dutch fet fire to their veffel, and took to their boat. Notwith-ftanding the fire, the attackers boarded her, and faved two brafs fwivel guns, which I faw, and even fome wearing apparel. The veffel being hauled up, I had the curiofity to meafure her. She was from ftem to tafferel 91 foot 6 inches, in breadth 26 foot, and in depth 8 foot 3 inches. Her ftem and bow overhung very much what may be called her keel. She fteered with two commoodies or rudders ; had ninety men, and could row with forty oars, or upwards of a fide, on two banks. The manner was this : The twenty upper beams, that went from gunnel to gunnel, projected at leaft five foot on each fide. On thofe projecting beams were laid pieces of fplit cane, which formed a gallery on each fide the veflel for her whole length 3 and her two ranks of rowers fat on each fide, equally near the furface of the water, the two men abreaft having full room for their oars,, which are fag" from lying horizontally, but incline much downwards. This veflel brought to Mindano about feventy flaves. TucfJay, the I ft of Augujl, we had a very frefh. gale at S. W. which almoft entirely blew off the attop roof that covered the veflel. The 3d, nailed on the irons to hang the rudder by, laying afide the commoodies. The 6th, I fent the boat up the river, to buy rice; this article paffing current in the market for common expences. On the 7th, I faw brought brought to Coto Intang a handfome young man, a Spaniard, as a Have l<> he ibid. His name was Bohilda. I purchafed him for fix peculs v—* °f iron, from an Illano man \ which was reckoned a great price. About this time I learnt that Tuan Hadjee had been at Tukoran, and married Rajali Moodo's wife's lifter, daughter to the Sultan there, before he left Mindano, and before the coolnefs arofe between him and Rajah Moodo, he had,, it feems,. promifed to return to Selangan by the beginning of the N. E. monfoon, and proceed in fome veffel of Rajah Moodo's, againft the Dutch in the Molucca iflands. For, fince the Dutch had fome years before committed hoftilities on Mindano, a kind of piratical war was carried on. During Watamama's illnefs, I obferved his daughter Fatima, a beautiful young lady, about nineteen her hufband Datoo Utu, Rajah* Moodo's fon,. a youth not above fifteen years of age. Whatever might be the difproportion in their years, I never heard that they had bved unhappily together, till during the iicknefs of Watamama. Fatima, in perhaps a peevifh humour, had. faid fomething harfh to her young hufband ; who took it fo much to heart, that he went home to bis father and mother, telling them he would never live with her more. This I learnt fometime afterwards, being prompted to enquire by Rajah Moodo's hinting to me one day, with apparent concern,, that his fon had quarrelled with his wife Fatima.; to which my natural anfwer was, that little mifundcrftandings would now and then bappen between young married people, but that this, I hoped,, would.-foon be made up. On On the 7th of Augujl, I waited on Rajah Moodo, and told him, I was going over the water to vifit the Sultan. Sir, faid he, the Sultan is very ill, and has juft fent for Fakymolano and myfelf, defiring to fee us. Then replied I, Sir, I defer my vifit, not offering to accompany the Rajah ; neither did he afk it. Fakymolano, and Rajah Moodo, were on this occafion attended by the Spanifh Envoy, his ferjeant, and fome of the new difciplined guards. Rajah Moodo returned about ten, in feeming high fpirits; and told me he had been very happy in embracing many of his near relations, whom he had not feen for a long time. He gave me alfo to under-ftand by diftant hints, that this was a device of the Sultan's to make up matters. Next day, his thirty Bifayan guards were drefl in compleat uniforms of blue broad cloth, turned up with red, and trimmed with white buttons of tin. They had all grenadier caps, with this motto; To el Rey ; I the king. About four in the afternoon, it was fignified to me, that Rajah Moodo defired my company to vifit the Sultan. We croffed the Melampy in two large canoes, ftrongly joined, though fomewhat feparated, by tranfverfe planks. This floating flage carried over above forty perfons. The The Sultan's palace is a tenement about one hundred and twenty foot long, and fifty broad. The firfl floor rtfes fourteen from the ground. Thirty-two ftrong wooden pillars fupport the houfe in four rows, eight in a row. The intercolumniation, or filling up between the two outer rows, is excefiively flight; being of flicks fo put together, that both light and air intervene. Through fome windows cut low, are pieces of iron cannon pointed outward. Above fix foot, which height the flender flicks do not furpafs, the tenement is well matted all round. In the lower part nothing was kept, but boats under cover, with their furniture. The firft row of pillars inward, is about ten foot within thofe which fupport the outfide, and covered with fcarlet broad cloth to the top j where at the height of about twenty foot from the firil floor, they fuilain the beams and rafters, on which refts a fubflantial, though light roof, made of the fago tree leaves. From the tops of the infide pillars, palempores with broad white borders extending them, were fmoothly expanded, and made a noble cieling. A movable flight partition divided the whole into two unequal parts. The firft part being about one third of the whole, was well floored with planks on flrong beams : here were fix pieces of cannon mounted. The inner apartment was not floored, but covered with fpht aneebong, a kind of palm tree, in pieces going the whole length of it, about five inches broad, and placed half an inch, or an inch a-funder. This contrivance of floor for the inner apartment, feemed preferred to the folid floor of the outer, as admitting the frefh air from below; and covered, except in the paffage, with matting, and a few carpets, it rendered the palace remarkably cool. Between * *}« A VOYAGE i77?< Between the two fartheft pillars of the farther apartment ftood the Auguft. i.i I ; bed, on a flage of plank, a foot high, which projected about two foot beyond the bedftead : this was covered with mats, and proved a convenient feat all round, except on the back part. From the roof depended the tefter, to which were fixed three rows of curtains; the inmoft of white calico, the next of blue, the outer-moft combining breadths of filk, of the moft contrafted colours. Towards the head of the bed were arranged yellow pillows or bol-fters; fome as large as an ordinary bale of Englifh broad cloth, fome fmaller, and all filled, with the plantain dry leaves, which made them light. Their ends of fcarlet cloth were embroidered with gold. Of the pillows, fume were fhaped like prifms, and lay neceffarily on a fide. I imagine thole large pillows are lometimes ufed to lean igainft, though no fuch ufe was made of them at that time j they lying then all near the head of the bed, which was about eight foot fquare. That fide of the inner apartment, which was oppofite the bed, had much the appearance of a china fhop. Below flood a range of about thirty china jars, each capacious of, at lead, twenty gallons j above them, a fhelf fupported another row of fmaller jars the next fhelf exhibited a row of black earthen water pots, with brafs covers, in which the water contracted a coolnefs for the refremment of guefts. A fourth fhelf, attainable only by a ladder, held falvers and cufpadores. Towards the farther end ran a crofs row of fhelves, containing fimilar furniture, the largeft jars being always the loweft: behind, were the retired apartments. Oppofite the row of fhelves, that went partly along TO N E W GUINEA, along the hall, Hood two rows of red coloured china cherts, one upon another, the lower row the larger ; but each containing cheils of equal fize. A ramp of mafonry was the afcent, but only to one door of this vaft apartment. A palifade of ftrong polls furrounded three fides of it, the river warned the fourth. Rajah Moodo was accompanied by one of his natural brothers; there was alfo Muttufinwood, an officer of polity, called fometimes Gogo, as in the Molucca iflands : Datoo Woodine, an officer who fu-perintended the prows and vefTels belonging to Rajah Moodo; with fome Manteries * and Amba Rajdts, -j* In the outer hall were drawn up about twenty of the Bifayan guards, with the Spanifh fergeant at their head. The Sultan fat on the ground, in the inner hall, filling the center of a fquare, well fpread with mats. Rajah Moodo was fea ted about eight foot from him, towards the door. The company was ranged before the Sultan and Rajah Moodo, and on the latter's right hand, making two fides of the fquare above mentioned. The third fide, being open, difplayed afar the Sultana Myong, and fome ladies fitting by the foot of the bed. Near the fourth fide, a curtain of party coloured filk was dropt, the Sultan's back being towards it. I had the honour of being feated on Rajah Moodo's right hand, and next to me fat the Spanifh Envoy. * Mantery, a kind of juftke of peace. t Amba Rajah, protestor of the people's privileges. H h One 234 A V O Y A G E 1775. One of the company was Marajah Pagaly, * the Sultan's natural Auguft. . 1 r \m—>—-J brother. Topang, and his brother Uku, prefently came in ; the former gaily drelt, in new filver brocade : nobody there was fo fine. After the Sultan had fpoke fomething, with a low voice, in the Magindano tongue to this affembly, confiding of about twenty perfons, feated on mats, fpread upon the floor, he faid to me, in Malay, fome-what louder, Captain, you brought good fortune, when you arrived; there was darknefs, now there is light. I perfectly underflood his expreflion; and anfwered, Sir, I rejoice to hear fuch news. Out of refpecl; to this afTembly, I left my fhoes at the door; -J- as did the Spanifh envoy. I had lately been accuftomed to do fo at Rajah Moodo's j but it was never required of me. They, who walk with flippers, always leave them without, when they are to fit down. At this vifit, whenever the Sultan, or any other fpoke to Kybad Zachariel, they named him Rajah Moodo, rather loud, and with a paufe. This circumftance fufticiently acknowledged his title. * Pagaly Mama, fignifics brother 5 Pagaly Babye, filler, f Among the Romans, it was ufual for each gueft to Jeave his flippers or fandal.% with a flave, when he went in to fupper. One merry inftance may foffice, tranflatctf by the hand to which we have before been indebted. Mart. Ep. XII. 88. Bis Cotta fofeas perdidiiTe fc queftu*, That his fandals he loft twice poor Cotta complain'd, Dam negligentem ducit ad pedes vernam, While a negligent ilive at his feet he retain'd; Qui folus inopi praeftat, et facit turbam : Who, remifs as he was, made up Cotta's whole train : Excngitavit homo fagax, et aftutus, So he fhrewdly bethought, nor bethought him in vain. Jse farcre poflet tale frpius damnum j That he might no more fuffer a damage fo odd, Excalceatus ire capit ad ccenam. He refolv'd to proceed to hi? fupper unlhod. Eight TO NEW GUINEA. Eight or ten large yellow wax candles being lighted, and put into brafs candlefticks, before each perfon was placed a large brafs falver, a black earthen pot of water, and a brafs cufpadore. The falver was loaded with faucers, presenting fweet cakes of different kinds, round a large china cup of chocolate. My chocolate and the Spanifh envoy's, appeared in glafs tumblers; and our water pots were red. The fame diitincfion was obferved at Rajah Moodo's, to us Chriftians. About ten o'clock, as feveral had retired, and Rajah Moodo was talking with the Sultan, in the Magindano tongue, I got up alfo to go away. Leave is taken with a fmall ceremony; a lifting the right hand to the head, with a fmall inclination of the latter. At the foot of the ramp, I found Topang and the Spanifh envoy in converfation. Topang fqueezed me hard by the hand, and fo forcibly conducted me with the Spaniard to his manfion, that I could not refill. Being fit down, after a little paufe, he faid ; How comes it, Captain, you have been fo long at M igindano, and I have not feen you at my houfe ? Recollecting immediately the figurative fpeech the Sultan had that evening made to me, I anfwered : Datoo Topang, fince my coming to Magindano, it has been fo dark, that I could not find my way. He made no reply. After a fhort paufe, I expoftulatcd in my turn: Datoo Topang, how came it, that your brother Datoo Uku durfl take an Englifh veffel ? Alluding to Mr. Cole's fchooner, which he had taken. He replied: Bugitu adat dejini barankallifuch is here the cuflom fometimes." II hi I was 236 A V O Y A G E ■|7s» I was in a manner forced upon the vifit; however, I ftaid chocolate, ■AuguiL 1 V-» which I faw preparing, and then decently took my leave. Of at leaft forty perfons prefent, none were feated, but the Datoo, his lady, the envoy, and myfelf, who filled four chairs, at a table. His confort was Galaludine, the daughter of Jiantillan, once Sultan of Sooloo: a very pretty woman. When I got back into the ftreet, it ftruck me, that my vifiting Topang, a ftep I was refolved never to take, would be told to Rajah Moodo next day, with circumftances perhaps little to my advantage. I was then clofe by the Sultan's palace, going home with only three attendants. Judging by the lights, that the company was not broke up there, I fcaled the ramp. Rajah Moodo feeing me, beckoned. I immediately fat down by him, and related what had happened at To-pang's. He laughed heartily, and feemed fully convinced that the vifit was unintended on my fide. The Sultan, hearing the fubftance of my relation, appeared no lefs entertained. I had reafon to be thankful, that I had fo opportunely prevented Rajah Moodo's jealoufy. Next day Topang fent me, by an old woman, in a private manner, a prefent of about half a pound of fweet fcented tobacco, and defired to fee me. I returned a few cloves, (an efteemed prefent here) but declined the invitation. CHAP- vttfltfttbiut ~S /Jlv,,,,,/ /Jrd\J Uku 0 Tl>/t/TS/// ' yf*. \ITe ufe mated \UL)J^ }SeiWMoffat . (tii//?///- -ffmt JMemiitiin/ati' tJait'Sa/iM/w /f .. '/,'/i///j/t/i// ntano . > f \ k'/iTZtf tfwftnrZAdafumutariFritter Sa/M-Jwrv/j/w {/>,>A-A 'Rajah PMdAcd ty r,i/tf" Thoilirrrwta* //,« Act .//trek, Ja/iy.3 teen ; and the ceremony is fumptuous in proportion to the rank of the Perfon. From 23€ A VOYAGE" 1775- From all quarters were numbers invited. I faw many Illano prows Auguft. . l——%-1 enter the river; particularly one, compofed of two canoes, fixed parallel to each other. The figure of a camel was put on board j two feet in ohe canoe, two in the other. The camel is an animal much refpected by Malay Mahometans, as they never, perhaps, in their own iflands faw one alive. In the body of the camel was a perfon, who gave movement to its neck, and it fometimes lolled out a long red tongue. There was alfo an entertainment, that put me in mind of what we read in ftory of tilts and tournaments. Behold, a champion, armed capapee, with a brafs helmet, a lance, fword, target, and crefs. On his helmet nods generally a plume of feathers; fometimes a bird of paradife. Thus accoutred, he enters the fquare before the Sultan's, with a firm Hep, and look of defiance. He prefently ft ems to difcover an opponent, advances towards him ; fteps back, jumps on one fide, and then on the other ; fometimes throws down his fpear, and draws his fworJ> with which, fore ilrokc and back flroke, he cleaves the air. When he is thus Sufficiently tired, and worked up to an apparent frenzy, the fpectutors fhouting, according as his agility pleafes, bis friends rufh in, and, with difficulty overcome his reluctance to quit tl e combat. The female Spectators often applaud as loud as the men. ; I obferved I obferved a boy of about ten years, who had worked himfelf up to J . Auguft. fuch a frenzy. When his friends took him off", he fo ftruggled in their u-v*^ arms, that I feared, he would have fallen into a fit. The Sultan and Fakymolano entered the fquare, to fhow their agility : Fakymolano preceded. Their attendants, however, took care that they mould not too long exert their exhibition of youth. The Sultan returning to his palace, palled me, where I flood on the ramp* He feemed much fatigued. Datoo Utu alfo appeared, and gave great fatisfaclion. I had prefented him with a bird of paradife, which he Wore in his helmet. He made his lance quiver in his hand. Uku, Topang's brother, the perfon who took Mr. Cole's fchooner* alfo exhibited with abundant agility. Neither Rajah Moodo, Topang, nor Chartow, appeared in the fquare: they were contented with being Spectators. At night, little boys difplayed their nimblenefs in the outer hall, at the Sultan's : they would fometimes fall fuddenly plump upon both knees, and feem to fight in that attitude. They brandifhed their little fwords with fJry, and their targets jingled with ornaments of brafs. During this merriment, which lafted ten days, a number of guefts Were daily entertained with fweet cakes and chocolate. Rajah Moodo's guards, directed by the Spanifli fergeant, fired mufketry 5 as did about fixteen foldiers of Topang's, and the fame number of Chartow's, Rajah Moodo's foldiers went through their firing bed. Neither the Sultan nor Fakymolano feemed to have any guards. I fuppofe, that Chartow's * A VOYAGE Chartow's were the Sultan's, and Molano little minded pomp or fhow. In the mean while I got the Tartar galley tolerably repaired, having alfo painted her. On Wcdnefday the 16th of Augujl 1 lanched her, and brought her abreaft of my apartments, in the fort, where we rigged her as a fchooner. Mr. Baxter, who was an excellent feamam took pains to make her look very fmart. On Saturday the 18th, I croffed the Melampy, along with Rajah Moodo, at his defire. He bid me go on to Chartow's houfe, where I fhould fee Noe, the young lady, getting ready for the grand piocel-fion, which was to be that day. I was accompanied by my two officers. We were immediately treated with chocolate and fw;;et cakes. I obferved a female, who ferved the chocolate, talking of her matter Chartow, title him Rajah Moodo. The Sultan and Myong, the Sultana, were there. The Sultan came on a fine white horfe, which he had from Sooloo. The Sultana was in diihabile, very bufy at the farther end of i hall, giving orders for dremng out ten handfomc young ladies : they were loaded with gold ornaments They wore heavy bracelets of gold ; of the fame mttal large earings and crifping pins in their hair, which was clubbed in the ( cie i'.iiion. Gold mofUy embroidered the flippers, to which In ir garments reached. They had no need of ftockings. Each held a fmall batoon, or roller of wood, covered with yellow filk, and tied at either end with red filk ribband. They alfo wore each a yellow* ribband fafli, about two inches broad, over the fhoulder, as little miffes mifles do fometimes in England. All this while Noe did not appear. Thefe ten young ladies got upon a wooden vehicle, mounted on four low wheels. It had a teller, or top, fupported by four pofls. and benches around, covered with calico, on which they fat. This vehicle went firft, and was drawn by men : then followed a fmall vehicle, in which were two dancing girls, like thofe on the coaft of Coromandel: they had nofe jewels, and tinkling ornaments on their ankles and toes. Then followed the young lady, in a fmall kind of fhell, like what is called in India a fly-palankeen, covered with a golden cloth, on which fhe fat. It refembled a palankeen, being carried on two men's moulders, by fomething fixed to each end of the fhell. But this did not arch over, as does the bamboo of the fly palankeen of Coromandel. They call it prow: on examination, the hinder part bore a refem-blance to the fterns of their ordinary veffeis, and the forepart had a kind of ftem or beak. On this occafion, the Sultan's two apartments were thrown into one. A filk curtain, hanging about twelve foot from the floor, and reaching within five foot of it, (to let people pafs eafiiy under) had aa elegant effect, as it encompaffed a large fpace, juft within the pillars, that were covered with fcarlet cloth. About feven in the evening, the operation of piercing the ears, being performed, Noe was exhibited to the company, from behind a cur- I i tain, tain, in a man's arms, her attendants following with a flow pace. _ They then fat down by the Sultana, at the foot of the large bed before defcribed. No wonder, if it put me in mind of a theatrical exhibition I On Monday the 20th, being invited over to the Sultan's, I went at eight in the evening. About half pad eight, the Sultana and ladies retiring to the farther end of the apartment, a filk curtain was dropped. Much about this time, I faw a number of covered falvers brought up the ramp, and fome tables. One of thefe was prefentty covered with a number of china terrenes, each holding about three half pints : in the middle flood a large china terrene, uncovered ; containing about a gallon of boiled rice. An old fafhioned chair was placed at each end of the table. I was a little furprifed, when Rajah Moodo took me by the hand, and defired me to fit down at one end, whilit my youngeff. officer, Mr. Laurence: Lound, (Mr. Baxter being out of order) was defired to lit down at the other. Raj-ah Moodo faid in his ufual manner: Eat heartily, Captain, and do not be afhamed; while the Sultan, ftroking me gently down the back, with his right hand, joined in exhortation ; Eat, Captain ; what you do not eat, muft all be fent home to you ; pointing to the floor, on one fide of the table, where many falvers were covered with confections and fweet cakes. On the table flood feven rows of ten china terrenes, clofe together, which, fubftracting four for the large one in the middle, left fixty-fix dimes TO NEW GUINEA. diflies for two perfons. The attendants prefcntly uncovered, about twenty of them,, which emitted a very agreable flavour of meats, poultry, fim, &c. varioufly dreffed. The fame attendants helped us with rice out of the middle difh, and put china fpoons into the difhes they had uncovered, furnifhing each of us with an Englifh knife and fork, and change of plates as wanted; at the fame time holding in little china cups, pepper, fait, and vinegar, afking us now and then if we chofe any. Whilft at table, I perceived by the foot of the bed, another table covered much in the fame manner, but not with quite fo many dimes. Dotoo Utu, Rajah Moodo's fon, fat alone at the head of it. Four of the ten young ladies that have been mentioned, flood two on either fide the table, with large wax tapers in their hands. The young gentleman feemed amazed. Prefently after, I faw farther behind me another table, where Rajah Moodo fat alone; there were not many dimes upon it. Fakymolano, Chartow, Topang, and others, were by this time gone home. Datoo Uku had not been of the company. Not having ffeen the Spanifh Envoy to night, I enquired about him next day, and was told he had been entertained at the manfion of Rajah Moodo, by that prince's confort, provifions being fent from the Sultan's. Poflibly he was ftationed there to watch, as I dare fay, Rajah Moodo was ever jealous of Topang's party. I i a Next 244 A VOYAGE Auguft Next morning, Tuefday the 2lit, came to my habitation from the L—-v—j Sultan's, in a canoe, a great quantity of cold victuals. The contents of the fmall terrenes, were put into eight large ones, confequently jumbled together; but, fifh with fi(h> and fowl with fowl. My crew had thus a fuffkiency for two or three days. The fweet cakes and comfits were brought on the falvers, which I, faw placed on the floor at the Sultan's. I gave many of them away to fome Chinefe of my acquaintance, who fet a high value on the prefent, knowing whence it came. On Wednesday the 22d, Rajah Moodo's lady went over to vifit the Sultana. She had a hundred and four women in her train. At her landing, on that fide the water where flood the Sultan's palace, and about one hundred yards from it, all the women in the Sultana's retinue, to the number perhaps of fifty, cried out with a fhrill voice, YOU, exactly as we pronounce it, drawn out for about four fcconds. This was repeated three times, with an interval of about four feconds between the times. They then called out the monofyllable WE, precifely as we do, three times, and full as long as the former cry. To me it founded, like a kind of howl, very difagreable at firft; but cuftom made it otherwife, as the two words, YOU and WE are terms, or rather founds of falutation given at a diflance to ladies of high rank, and repeated with fome interval of paufe, until they got into the abode of the vifited. No man ever joins in the exclamation ; now and then a cur * in the flreets howls in unifon to the no fmall entertainment of the audience. The * At Sooloo, as elfcwhere, the dogs often in the night, fet up a difagreable howl. If one begins, or if any perfon imitates, the curs immediately fet up their difmal cry. Malays The above falutation was not ufed when the Sultan's grand chill ^oved in proceflion from Chartow's Fort, to the palace: me might 0e refpeclfully fuppofed going home. It having been new to me to. da/, (truck me the more. Rajah Moodo's confort was plainly drett in flowered muflin, with ^arge fillygree gold earings, not hanging from her ears, but fixed through a hole in the ordinary place to a piece of gold on the oppofite fide, as with a fcrew. The attendants fquatted down id heaps on the floor; and even the meanefl, the betel box bearer, had chocolate and foeet cakes ferved to them, after thofe of' higher rank had been fuf. ficed. They played much at a kind of checker board with glafs beads flat on one fide: the beads were of different colours, white, black and "tie: The Malays and they called the game Damahan; which differs not much from the French name of drafts. At night fifteen ladies flanding behind oneanother, formed a half moon, *hich moved flowly and circular. One lady who led, fung three or *°ur minutes, the half moon and vocal leader going flowly round all the while. When fhe had compleated a circle which took up the above time, (he fell into the rear,, and the next fung in emulation. This c°ntinued about an hour; and feemed to me tedious, the firil fong; heing always repeated. Jays about Mai acca and Atcheen, not fond of dogs, feldom keep them. The S00I003 Magindanoers, may be faid only to tolerate them. A Frenchman at Atcheen, once ptuclc a native for having ftruck his dog in a ferry boat. This coft the life of many a renchman, not. twenty years ago. The The men never mix with the women in any amufement of this kind J or even touch them, bow to them, or take notice of them by look, or otherwife, as they pafs; yet not _ Teeming to avoid them. Though words, fmiles, or looks are not forbid, they are not ufed in public as among Europeans; and, when women of rank walk abroad to viiit* they affume a precife air and flep, extending with their right hand a kind of thin filk, for to {hade, not to hide the face. A train of ft-male attendants, often flaves (and the hufband's concubines) follow. In the flreets, women feldom fpeak but to women; and the paths being narrow, they follow one another, as in a firing. In their houfes they talk aloud with freedom to any body, as in Europe. The Sultana in a few days returned Potely Pyak's vifit; but not with fuch a train. The YOU and the WE were fcreamed out as ufual, by the vifited, as the vifitdrs approached. On the 23d, having got the Tartar Galley decked and fitted as a fchooner, I worked down the river againfl the S. W. wind, with the ebb tide, pafl Rajah Moodo's fort, and the Sultan's palace, and then failed back before the wind: there were many fpeclators. They do not underfland making fhort tacks in a narrow river with their vefTels, as the yard on which the fail is flretched mufl be dipped or fhifted over. They were therefore the more furprifed at the facility with which a fchooner of ten tons could turn about: the Sultan and Rajah Moodo expreffed great fatisfacfion. On On the 27th, the Spanifti envoy having got letters from Rajah J77& Moodo to the governor of Samboangan, took his leave, accommodated with a fmall veffel of Rajah Moodo's to efcort him acrofs the Illano °ayt for fear of the Illano cruifcrs, to the point Baganean, called fometimes Point de Flechas, as there the Magindano dillricts again begin, and extend to Panabigan, near Samboangan, as mentioned in the geography of this ifland. I fent the governor a prefent of a curious Molucca Looriquet, with a letter ; and a Latin tranflation of thd Englifh Prayer-book to the chief priefl or padre. The Spaniard, after waiting on Fakymolano and the Sultan (and, 1 believe, faluting the latter) at Topang's fort, anchored and went afhore; and, going aboard again, faluted Topang with three guns* He then proceeded down the river. Rajah Moodo, hearing this, was much offended with the Spaniard ; and difpatched a boat after him with a meifenger, who demanded and brought back all his letters. Th is of courfe brought back the Spaniard, who, fenfible of the ^propriety of his conduct, went firft to Fakymolano ; who next day carried him, and the fergeant that accompanied him, to Rajah Moodo's at eight, the hour of breakfaft. I obferved them both in a kind of difhabille, wearing long drawers, and in apparent dejection. Rajah Moodo fent for me, to hear, I fuppofe, the chaftifement he gave for the falfe ftep they had made. He was earneft; I never ^ him angry. Did you not know, faid he to them, both in Spanifh and 1775- And in Malay, (undoubtedly that I might underfland him) that Datoo Topang and I are at variance ? He then talked to them in the Magindano tongue, in which they ufually converted. The Spaniard feemed very penitent, fpoke not a word, and had chocolate ferved to him, but not before Fakymolano, Rajah Moodo, and I had done. This envoy had once before waited on Rajah Moodo at Sebugy, a little to the weft: of the ifland Lutangan, upon fome bufinefs from Samboangan. It happened at that time, that Rajah Moodo's youngeft fon, Se Mama, a boy about five years old, fell into the river, and Sinior HuHan proved inflrumental in faving his life. Rajah Moodo, notwithstanding the intercefTion of his father, refufed feveral days to give back the letters; and the Spaniard durfl not, I fuppofe, return without them. At laft the tears of the little favourite, who might be inftructed on the occafion, gave the Rajah an opportunity of yielding with a good grace. CHAP- CHAPTER VIU. The IJland Bunwoot is granted to the Englijh—Tranficiions there; and De/cription of it—'Sail for Tubuau—Mr. Baxter fets out to vijit the Gold Mine at Marra ; but immediately returns. A FTER I had been fome time at Magindano, and found that the country produced much gold and wax, alfo an excellent kind of caffia, perhaps cinnamon, (of which I brought thence two boxes from Rajah Moodo, one for his Majefty with a letter, another for the India Company with a letter, which have been delivered) I wifhcd to find near the main land, fome ifland, which mould have behind it a harbour, and on it room fufficient to eftablifh a fort and ware, houfes. The ifland Ebus or Bos, twenty miles from Magindano river, feemed in every refptct to correfpond with my idea : it has been already defcribed. I had vifited this ifland, as has been faid, with Datoo Enty, and was told I might have a grant not only of it, but of a portion of land on the oppofite main. I had not then vifited the ifland of Bunwoot facing Magindano r^'er j but when I had feen it, I found it in many refpetts fuperior lo fituation to Ebus, as being near the capital, and to thofe on whofe frfendfliip more dependance might be had than on that of the Illano princes. Yet I did not afk a grant of it, apprehending the favour would be too great. K k At 350 A VOYAGE 1775* At lad:, as I believe they learnt that I wirtied for it, a kind of proffer September. J r u--,—' came from themfelves; and Rajah Moodo faid, about three weeks before this reconciliation, that he would give Bunwoot to the Englifh, not doubting but the Sultan would acquiefce. I expreffed my fenfi-bility of his many marks of favour to myfelf, and affured him, it would be a greater fatisfaclion to the Englifh to fettle near him than in the Illano diftricts, where, although he had the fovereignty of all iflands, and as far inland as a horn can be heard from the beach, the Illanos had much power, on which we could not depend; while we eould well depend on his protection. On the 3d of September, the Sultan, Chartow, and Uku, Topang's brother, came to dine with Rajah Moodo, and his father Fakymolano, at Rajah Moodo's houfe. I was not invited to the repaft, but had victuals fent to my apartments. I obferved that Topang was not there. After dinner, I was fent for. The Sultan informed, me, that he and Fakymolano, Rajah Moodo, and all their relations, had come to a refolution of granting the ifland Bunwoot to the Englifh Company : I thanked him. He then afked me if I intended failing to Balambangan directly, or if I chofe to flay till they fhould fend a boat thither for • intelligence. Confidering that the monfoon was far from being fo turned as to enable me to fail direcTt thither to avoid the Sooloos, alfo, that I had not yet got the grant of Bunwoor, I paid him the com.pii.ncnt, th -I would obey his commands in the matter. I perceived this pleafed them T O N E W G U I N E A. . a< them all. They advifed me to (lay till the return of the boat : but, I77?- ' Scpteuib upon my expreffing a defire to vifit Bunwoot before the boat went for intelligence about the Englifh, and, while fhe was getting ready, a mantery and fome foldiers were ordered to accompany me. Next day, September the 4th, I filled for Bunwoot; but, the wind being contrary, after I got over the bar, I put into a creek clofe to the north fide of Timoko hill. . On the 5th, Handing over towards Bunwoot, I faw the Spaniard under fail palling to the northward of that ifland : he was attended by a fmall veffel. And, on the 6th, the mantery being rather tired of the cxcurfion, I returned to Magindano to get my letters ready for Balambangan, having heard that the Englifh were returned thither from Borneo, with fome men of war; and that they intended proceeding to Sooloo to demand fatisfaclion for Datoo Teting's taking of Balambangan. On the 12th, the Sultan, Fakymolano, and Rajah Moodo, figned and feaied a grant * of the ifland of Bunwoot to the Englifh Eafl India Company. This I forwarded with my letters to Balambangan on the 2ift. But the boat finding nobody there, proceeded to the town of Borneo Proper, near which the Englifh were at the ifland of Labuan, about fifteen miles from the mouth of the river of Borneo. My fervant Matthew, who was entrufted with the packet, delivered it to Mr. * The grant was wrote in Spanifh by Abderagani, a native of Pampanga—.once a flavea who, by turning MufTulman, had obtained his liberty, K k 2 Herbert, ■ Herbert. I alfo inclofed to Mr. Herbert the Sultan of Sooloos letter to me. The boat had thirty men, and mounted a three pounder, with fix brafs rantackers : fhe had outrio-o-ers. On the 24th, I was informed that the boat bound to Balambangan had failed from the river's mouth. As I had promifed to flay till her return, I propofed, in the mean time, to go over to Bunwoot, and furvey it. So we filled our jars with river water, and got all. elfe ready. On the 25th, Rajah Moodo, who had before borrowed fix of the galley's mufkets, afked of me other four; for which he fent me four very indifferent. With this I readily put up, as, whenever I went from the river, I had fome of his armed foldiers on board, who behaved with civility on all occafions. Tuefday the 26th, weflerly winds. Came on board four of Rajah Mocdo's foldiers, with their arms, to attend me to Bunwoot. On the 27th, fine weather. Cafl off, and rowed down the river : came to clofe to the fouth fhore within the bar. There we faw feveral wild hogs feeding at low water:. they were not fhy, and might eafily have been fhot; but I did not choofe to bring pork on board. On the 28th, weflerly winds, with fome rain. Got over the bar at nine P. M. being driven out by a flrong ebb tide. The 29th. Fine weather. At eight in the morning, ran between the iflet Tagud Tangan and the main ifland of Bunwoot: meafured Tagud Tangan, and found it a hundred and twenty yards long, and a hundred TO NEW GUINEA, 2Jj hundred and ten yards broad. Laid the veiTel afhore, on a fmooth l7?z> September, hard beach. Saw a number of wild hogs. On the 30th, variable u—"v—** winds. Went in the boat, and found a harbour within a mile of the north part of the ifland. Planted on the ifland Tagud Tangan feven- teen vines, fome ferry or lemon grafs, fome parfley and clary, which I got out of Rajah Moodo's garden.. Sailed out with the night tide> and founded frequently j but had no ground, with eighty fathom of line, within a mile and half of the ifland. Qttaber the iff. Sailed round the north end, and along the N. W, or outer fide of the ifland : had pretty regular foundings within lefs than a mile of the reef of coral rocks that itretches from the north end of it. Saw two fpots of coral rocks off the outfide of the ifland, with three fathom water on them. Fine weather, with regular land and fea breezes. At noon, ran into a creek among the coral rocks off the north end of Bunwoot.. The 2d. S. W. winds. Weighed in the morning : pafled over the rocks, and came into a fort of bay, where I landed, and went a hunting the wild hog, without fuccefs. On the 3d, fine weather. Afloat in the morning: went farther round into a land-locked bay, and moored the veflel, in eight foot high water, muddy ground. Dug a well afhore, in black mold and clay, mixed with flones. It foon filled with rainwater; but we found no fprings. Saw many turtle doves on the high trees, but few-other birds> except fome gulls on the fhore. On A VOYAGE On the 4th, variable winds and calms. Built an attop covering over the after part of the veffel; alfo cleared fome ground on the N. E. point of the ifland, and began to built a houfe afhore. The 5th. Employed in furveying. On the 6th, had variable winds, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Found in the wood fome lime trees, and one jack tree full of fruit; but the property was claimed by a Badjoo fifherman, who kept his ftation near us, and daily fupplied us with fifh. To day Mr. Baxter caught a pig, weighing about fix pound, which the Mindanoers entreated us to eat, and not to be ceremonious; this was civil. On the 7th, variable winds, with rain. Mr. Baxter, affifted by fome people and a dog, caught three fine roafling pigs. On the 8th, variable winds, with rain. Inclofed a piece of ground, and planted in it fome vetches. Built alfo a fhed houfe on the N. E. point of the ifland. On Monday the 9th, hoifted Englifh. colours on the N. E. point, and faluted them with nine guns. To day came from Tukoran a prow, told us two Englifh fhips were cruifing off Sooloo. The 10th. Variable winds. Hauled the veffel afhore, and breamed her bottom. In the garden the vetches were all fprung. Employed furveying j fome in filhing, and fome in looking out for pigs. During the nth, 12th, and 13th, employed in the fame manner. On the 14th, came over from Tetyan harbour, a perfon who called himfelf *54 Oftoher. hrmfelf brother to the Rajah of Balambangan : I prefented him with a pocket compafs. Next day, the 15th, I went with him round the ifland, and found its circumference about feventeen or eighteen miles. The Datoo, for fo wc called him, flopt to fhow me a fpring at the S. W. part of the ifland : it was but a fmall one. In our excurfion, we found very pleafant walking under the fhade of the tall trees, as there is no underwood. We frequently roufed fome black hogs, but never got near them. To day, the 16th, we difcovered a fmall fpring by the White Cliff, which is remarkable, and may be feen from Mindano Bar. Meafured the top of the hill, near which we lay. It commands the harbour, to which it prefents an almoft perpendicular front, about a hundred foot high, within a fmall diflance of where a (hip may lie in five fathom water, muddy ground. I found the fummit a flat of a hundred and twenty yards long, and twenty-fix broad : an excellent fortification might be built on it. I called it Ubal Hill, * from a four fruit fo named, I found there. The hill and valleys adjacent, are equally clear of underwood. From this to the 23d, I was very a greably employed in furveyingthe ifland; fifhing fometimes, and often hunting the wild hog. Of this fpecies, we fhould have got many; but unfortunately I had only one dog, who was not able to flop them : they made nothing of carrying away a mufket ball. We perceived no animals on the ifland, but hogs, monkeys, guanos, and fome fnakes, about eighteen inches long, with brown fpots, which, we were told, were'veng. mous, • See the circular view. Before Before 1 proceed, may be expected a more particular defcription of an ifland, where I fpent my time fo pleafingly. j^lp^ripfo'fia £mwin& jaod**3f!sre1auio-ib. £i bmsoi has ur*ftt The illand Bunwoot is about eighteen miles round : * its greateft breadth lies towards the S. W. and its oppofite end tapers towards the N. E. till, at that extremity, it is not above half a mile acrofs. The ifland is almoft entirely covered with tall timber, free from underwood, except that in fome places are ratans, creeping along the ground, and a certain plant, (byonos,) which refembles a vine It creeps alfo along the ground, and twifts about large trees: the largeft part of the ftem is about the lice of a man's leg. The Mindanoers cut it into pieces, about a foot long, which they bruife with a mallet upon a piece of hard wood. Thus bruifed, it difcharges a white juice in great quantity, which ferves all the purpofes of foap. Here grows a kind of rofe wood, called narra, many dammer trees, and the tree that produces the gum, called curuang. Towards the N. W. fide of Bunwoot, are many mangrove trees, extending, however, only in a flip along the fhore, with a few clumps like iflands. Thefe are all in the fait water. From among them, you fpring immediately upon the firm land, by a rocky flep, in moft places, three or four foot high j there being no frefh water fwimps which Communicate with the fea. This cifcumftance makes the ifland very healthy, as the Mindano people allow, and I have experienced the foil being moftly, from half a foot to a foot of black mold, upon ftones and rocks j and it is faid to be very fruitful. • Plate XV11I, XIX. On T O N !E :W G U I N ;E A. 257 On the N. E. end of this ifland, are few or no mangroves, and in the l77f* iiay between Ranten Datoo, and Tagud Tangan, the afcent becomes a lit- u—*—' tie fteep, whereas, on the N. W. fide, the afcent is gradual : heregrows a tree, the leaves of which are as tender as fpinage j it is called Bagoo. From Rantrn Datoo to Telaga point, the ifland is both broadeft and higheft. Here you afcend by a gentle Hope, to the moft elevated part of the ifland, which I take to be between two and three hundred foot above the fea. The ifland from the S. W. appears like a wedge, or what feamen call a gunner's coin. If the ifland has few fprings, it contains many ponds of rain wa"ter, frequented by a number of wild hogs, which afford excellent fport, when hunted by two dogs at leaft : for one dog will not flop them. The hogs are very fwift, but not fo large and formidable as fome on the ifland Magindano. On Bunwoot the hogs are numerous, but have no gardens, cr rice fields to feed in. Their food is wild fruits, and what they pick up on the fhore at low water, where they always attend in numbers. Thofe we caught had no fat; but thofe we got on Magindano were plump enough, though not to compare with tame hogs. Travelling in the woods here is always cool, through the fhade of the lofty trees. There is no danger for fhips any where about the ifland, but what may be feen ; except off the fea ward fide of it, where are fome coral rocks, with two and three fathom, at the diflance of two miles. A fhip may come in at either end *, and anchor to leeward of the ifland, * Plate XIX. Circular View. LI in in the S. W. monfoon; or to windward of it, in the N. E. rrionfoorn For then the water is fmooth, and it never blows from the N. E. but it fometimes blows during that monfoon from the N. W. In the bay between Rantin Datoo and Tagud Tangan, the water is rather deep ; and within twenty fathom, the ground is foul. But farther, a mile fhort of the N. E. part of the ifland, a reef projects about a cable's length from the fhore. This proves an effectual fhelter againfl the S. W. fwell, and forms a kind of harbour, with three fathom and half, clofe to the dry coral rocks, at low water fpring tides, f Some fhaggy iflets lie a little diftant from the S. W. part of the ifland, with no palfage between them and the ifland : keep therefore a cable's length without them. As I found fuch multitudes of hogs, I conceived an idea, that fet-tlers on this ifland might be well fupplied with provifions, by the following method. The ifland being narrow, a wall might be built acrofs, to feparate the hogs from that quarter intended for cultivation ; fruit trees, of different kinds, fhould then be planted where the hogs are allowed to range, fuch as the nanka, the durian, &c. The hogs would then multiply and fatten, affording a never failing flock of good meat. There are alfo great quantities of fifh. By the 23d, we got up to town; and found, that, during our ab-fence, a ftout wooden bridge had been built over the Melampy, from Rajah Moodo's fort, to the Sultan's palace. t Plate XVIII and XIX. On On the 29th, I failed, with the wind eafterly, about twenty miles to the fouthward, for Tubuan river; not far from which, I was told, had been formerly wrought a gold mine: the place was named Marra. We had regular foundings to the fouthward of Mindano bar, from five to thirty-five fathom, being then abreaft of Timoko hill, and one mile from the fhore. We got into Tubuan river juft after fun fet, and lay aground at low water : four of Rajah Moodo's foldiers attended us. On the 30th, winds from the S. W. Gathered the feeds of a grain, called in the Weft Indies calalu, and by the Malays kulitis, which grew here in great plenty, I intended to carry them over to fow on Bunwoot. Dammed up a part of the river, which kept the veflel afloat at low water. The people, in wading afhore, hurt their feet very much with a kind of fmall prickly periwinkle, that ftuck to the pebbles. On the 31ft, winds from the S. W. Catched many thoufands of a fmall kind of full, called Yap. Thefe yap cling to pieces of bark put into the river, and are fo caught. Whilft we lay here, though the feafon for the N. E. monfoon, we generally had a fea wind in the day ; and in the night, the wind blew always very cold down the valley. On the 2d of November, I fent the gunner amongft the Haraforas, to purchafe provifions; on the 3d he returned, having been civilly treated by them; and many of thofe mountaineers came to Tubuan that fame day, bringing on rafts of bamboos, pumpkins, potatoes, &;C which we and the people of the village purchafed from them. One LI 2 of 260 A V O Y A G E' '7*& of the Haraforas bavins killed a wild hog, conducted me to the place, November. ° b r l-—<--1 and fold me a quarter. In carrying it to the veflel, he covered it with plantane leaves, having occafion to pafs near the houfe of a Mindanoer, that nobody might fee it. On the 8th we breamed the veffel's bottom* The fame day, I fet out with an oflicer of Rajah Moodo's, called Pa* pinfhan, to vifit the gold mine at: Marra y but came back at night, finding..the fatigue of travelling too great. On the 9th, Mr. David Baxter, offering to go to the gold mine, I: left him to explore it, and failed in the evening for Bunwoot; where, on the loth, I found the Datoo formerly mentioned, brother to the Rajah of Balambangan, making fait. On the 1 ith I fowedmany different feeds in the ifland; fuch as, Calalu, Papas, wild fage, and many Jack and Kanary feeds. In the evening failed for Mindano, intending to proceed foon for Borneo \ but not without leave of Rajah Moodo. On the 13th, hauled afhore at Mindano, to flop a leak. Recovered by Rajah Moodo's afliflance, two Have boys, one my own, one the mate's, which had run away, and been gone three months. On the 14th, I fent the boat to Tubuan, to fetch Mr. Baxter. On the 15th, he returned, the people who promifed to go with him to the gold mine, having failed him. On the 16th, Rajah Moodo ordered Papin-fhan and fome others to accompany Mr. Baxter thither. On the 17th I failed again for Tubuan ; but, not being able to get in that tide, I proceeded to Leno harbour. On the 19th, many Haraforas came on board with provifions. On the 20th, I left Leno harbour, and returned TO NEW G U\ I N E A. s to Tubuan river. Sent the boat to found, who reported thirty and forty fathom, fandy ground, at about a quarter of a mile's diltance from the bar. On the 22d, Mr. Baxter fet out for Marra, and returned the 26th. On the firft of December^ I failed for Magindano, where I arrived on the 3d. From the 9th of November tili now, fine pleafant weather, and generally N. E, winds. CHAP- ■CHAPTER IX. Defcription of the Coaft of Magindano South of the Bar of the Pelangy to Tubuan River—Account of Mr* Baxters Journey to Marra—Leno Harbour—Farther Defcription of the Coaft round Cape St. Auguftinc —Haraforas* 1775. A S the N. E. monfoon was fet in, I heard oneday Rajah Moodo ex-—1 *■ prefs great refentment at Tuan Hadjee s not returning from Tukoran, as by agreement, to go on an expedition to the Molucca Iflands. The coafl: to the left of the bar of the Pelangy, looking down the river, is called Bewan. So they fay, Angy kafa bewan ; M to go to the leftas we fay, going from London to Newcaflle, is going to the northward. After pafling the mouths of two creeks on the left, juft without the bar, where fait is made, you come to Timoko Hill, which looks at a diflance like a bowl, bottom up, and lies clofe to the feafide. A little to the fouthward of it are the fait works of Kabug. From Timoko Hill to Tapian Point, is a good fandy beach. The Point is rather low, but not flat. Midway appears inland the hill of Kablallang : being clear of wood, it is covered with green grafs, which makes TO NEW G IT I N E A, make6 it remarkable; and, a little to the northward of the Point, is Timowan, by the fea (hore. Having rounded Tapian Point, about two miles farther opens the river Muttubul: its bar is almoft dry at lowr Water. About three leagues farther runs Tubuan river, which is deeper, and remarkable for a projecting fpot of fand and gravel, thrown up at its mouth by the violence of the fwell, during the S. W. monfoon. This river wafhes a plain, about eleven miles long, and one mile and a quarter broad, in a ferpentine courfe. I am told that, during the heavy rains, it covers the plain with one or two foot water t In the month of November, when I was there, it feemed a brifk rivulet, fufficient to float down the rafts of bamboo, like the catamarans on the coaft of Coromandel; on which rafts the Haraforas bring their rice, yams, potatoes, &c. from their plantations to the river's mouth. Their plantations are fcattered up and down, often far from one another : the neareft is three hours journey from the mouth of the river. In going from the mouth, up the plain, to the farther end, which, as I have faid, is above ten miles, you muft crofs the river about ten times, in an eaft diredion. The ground, through which this path winds, as indeed moft of the plain, is covered with long grafs. Here and there grow reeds and wild fage. No timber, but on the adjacent heights. About fix miles up, are little rifing grounds, and groves of bamboos. Having got to the head of the plain, I found the river make a fork j one ftream coming from the S. E, the other, which I did not vifit, from the E, N. E, - The %H a Voyage T77>. The road leads up the S. E. ftream, moftly in the water, among large December. r J ° ftones, between fteep hills, covered with.tall timber. I travelled about two miles up this road, having three of Rajah Moodo's men to attend me, in the purpofe of going to Marra, where formerly fome Illano people dug for gold. But I was fb fatigued with clambering over rocks, when I had got the two miles up this rivulet, being then about twelves miles from Tubuan, that I was fain to come back, and fend in my ftead my chief officer, who was. gratified with the opportunity, j&iil?75« at four in the afternoon we came to the place we propofed for our re-•>—-> fidence all night: it had fix houfes, and was named Panababan. We faw another plantation called Lanow. At this- place appeared fome coco nut trees, the firft I have feen fince we left Tubuan. I allied why there were not more coco nut trees, and was anfwered, that the few inhabitants did not Hay above one or two years at a place; which is alfo the reafon their houfes are fo badly built, eight or ten foot from the ground. They all feem to be flaves to the Magindano people: for thefe take what they pleafe, fowls or any thing in the houfe they like bell; and, if the owners feem angry, threaten to tie them up, and flog them. " On Friday the 24th, at eight in the morning, we fet out with two new Haraforas; becaufe the other two we had yeflerday, went back. The road was very bad, as few people travel this way. It runs moflly between the S. and S. E. We crofTed feveral fmall rivers; the name of the largefl is Kaloufoo: on the hills we faw a great many caflia trees. To day we were infefled with worms like centipedes : they bit like leaches. Like them, they could hardly be got ofF, and then the place bled plentifully. About two in the afternoon, we arrived at Marra, where we expected to find gold. We went to work, and made troughs of the bark of a tree, about two foot long, and one broad; then dug where the people had worked before, from two foot deep to f6ur. The foil was brown mold and fand : we warned it feveral times; but after feveral trials, found no gold. Neither did I find the country people wear any gold ornaments : on the contrary, they wore brafs rings. " The Xi The ground has been wrought about twelve yards fquare, clofe to the weft fide of the river. The Haraforas declared that the former diggers found pieces of gold as large as the end of one's ringer, and fome fmaller. The river is very large, and runs N. E. by N. and the land to the eaftward is very high. I think we have walked about twelve or fourteen miles to day. Our Haraforas built us fheds to fleep under ; and boiled our rice in bamboos, although it rained very hard. I had eat fome pork, which the Haraforas gave me. On this, Papin-fhan faid, joking, you muft not fleep with me; yet I flept in the hut they had built, clofe by him. Saturday the 25th. Having had fo bad luck yefterday, and very little fleep, as it rained very hard moft of the night, before funrife we got up, and began our journey back: we cut fome caffia in our way. Found the worms very troublefome : the Mindano people call them limatics. Some bit me by eight in the morning ; nor did the bleeding flop till after noon. About ten we came to Panababan, where we had llept the fecond night ; and about five to Temalan, where we had refted the firft night: fo we walked as much to day, as we did before in two days. On the 26th, after crofling the river Tubuan many times, as we defcended the valley, we got on board the veffel by noon." Mr. Baxter had got a frefh colour by his journey.—I muft own, 1 had a hearty laugh at his returning without any gold, though I was at the fame time difappointed. About twenty miles S. S. W. of Tubuan Bar, juts Bamban Point. Between this and Tubuan, lie feveral bays and fmall villages; if five or fix houfes together on the fea fide, deferve that name. They are M m 2 all 268 A VOYAGE «77all inhabited by Magindano people, who fell to the Haraforas, iron December. / & t f kmmv—a chopping knives, called prongs, eloth, fait, 6cc. for their rice and other fruits of the earth. For the Haraforas dread going to fea, elfe they could carry the produce of their lands to a better market. They are much impofed on, and kept under by their Mahometan lords; and are all tributary to the Sultan, or to fome Rajah Rajah f (nobleman) under him. Their fyftem proves thus the feudal. Bamban Point, of middling height, projects into the fea, in a S. W. direction, and has fome coco nut trees fcattered on its ridge, by which it may be known : it lies in latitude 6° 45'. About three miles S. S. E. from the faid point, is Leno Harbour,* round a bluff point with a peaked hill. Give the point a fmall berth, as there runs off it a fhoal, near a mile in length, with deep water clofe to it. The oppofite land is bold. The harbour, where you lie in feven fathom fand, opens only from the S. to the S. S. W. but the reef off the point above mentioned, greatly defends its entrance, from the S. W. fwell. Though the harbour be not very fpacious, it would conveniently hold feveral large fhips, which fhould have all hawfers afhore. Clofe to the harbour, I found a great pile of coral rock: the crew of every boat that comes in, add one ftone a piece. Farther down, at the bottom of the harbour, are many mangrove trees. Here is a cut, or an indent into the coral rocks, about a hundred foot broad, and as many fathom in length, with the depth of five or fix fathom; where fhips of any fize might I Rajah Rajah, fignifies perfon of rank. * Plate XIX. lie lie fafe moored, perfectly fmoofh. About five leagues farther, lies the illand of Dunnowan, behind which is faid to be good anchorage; and one league beyond Dunnowan, a harbour called Tuna. Near Tuna live the people called Bangil Bangil; they do not fo much as attempt to build houfes; but live under bufhes, and in hollow trees. They furprife the wild hogs in their puddles, by covering their own bodies with mud. The hogs in no fear approaching, fall under the enemy's fhafts^ From Tuna, S. E. about four leagues, is a remarkable fandy ifletr with foul ground about it, except juft to fea ward, where it may be approached within one quarter of a mile, in feven fathom fand ; this has been mentioned in the journal. The iflet (if a fpot may be called fo) exceeds not half an acre. N. W. of it three miles, is a low point. Inland, the mountains bearing N. W. look like a cock's comb, feen from near the fhore. The land between this fandy fpot, and the harbour of Tuna, when bearing N* E. is like a faddle joined to a Bungalo roof or hog's back, the faddle lying, to the northward. I went afhore on the iflet> expecting to find turtles eggs; but the fand was too hard, and mixed with broken cora-lines for turtles to lay. The coaft then runs S. E. about nine leagues, to the great bay of Sugud Boyan. The land immediately N. W. from the entrance of the faid bay, is of middling height, and even out line. It has $ fine fandy beach ; but no appearance of houfes. From this land, the two iflands of Serangani or Belk, bear S. E. ten leagues. The width of the entrance into the bay of Sugud Boyan 27o A VOYAGE 177>• Boyan (that Is harbour of Boyan) may be about five or fix miles Dm ruber. J . —j broad, as I could judge in pafling it. There is faid to be but a fmall diflance between the lake of Buloan (mentioned in the defcription of the river Pelangy) and Sugud Boyan, over a flat country; and in that part of the country, the indigo plant taggum grows abundantly amidft the long grafs. After burning the grafs, the indigo fprings afrefli. Here are many wild horfes, bullocks, and deer. Within four leagues of Serangani, is the harbour of Batulakki, with ten fathom water, by the people's account. To the northward a little way, are two clear fpots on the hills, of a conical fhape.* I faid that the left coafl: from the bar of Magindano, to the fouthward beyond Tapian point, is called the Bewan; but I have learnt that the Bewan properly ends at Glang, which lies at the north entrance of the bay or harbour of Sugud Boyan; fo that the Bewan diftrict comprehends the Nigris of Kabug, Tenawan, Muttubul, Tubuan, Leno, Krang near Pulo Dunnowan, Tuna, Looan, and Glang near Sugud Boyan. The diftricl: of Serangani, contains the Nigris of Tugis, Balchan, Nea, Pangean, Batulan, where is the harbour of Batulakki, Louang, Balangannan, the iflands Belk and Serangani. I never was beyond thefe iflands: what I add, is therefore from report. The diftricl: of Kalagan, weft of Cape St. Auguftine, called Panda-gan, contains Kafaraddan, Dabow, and the ifland Bunwoot, inhabited by about two hundred perfons; whence Englifh Bunwoot has its name. * Plate XVII. Then T O N E W G U I N E A. 27* Then the diftricT: of Kihgan, north of Cape St- Auguftine, contains 8*75-Eu, Sumoolug, Tukka, Baloe. Next is Catil, already taken notice of. The three diftri&s, Bewan, Serangani and Kalagan, are all under Magindano. Off this part of the coaft lie fome illands abounding with turtle.- The Haraforas are thinly fcattered ; and, being all tributary, many together feldom ftay long at one place. This cannot be for want of water, pafture, or fertile ground; as with the Tartars on the continent of Aha. On this illand, almoft every fpot is covered either with timber, bruihwood, reeds or grafs; and ftreams are found every where in abundance. Nor can it be to avoid wild beafts; there are none on the ifland: a good caufe why deer, wild horfes and other wild cattle are found in fo many parts of it. 1 fufpecft, that the Haraforas are often fa oppreft, that fome have wifely got inland, beyond the tax-gatherer's ken. In the diftrict of Kalagan is a high mountain, a little way weft of Pandagitan, which emits at times fmoke, fire and brim ftone. When tho mountain has not for fome time thrown out any brim/lone, the inhabitants believe that the god who rules there is angry. They therefore purchafe, for perhaps five or fix Kangans, an old Have; whofe blood, they fhed to appeafe the deity. Having thus given the geography of the coaft of the ifland Magindano, partly from my own obfervation, but chiefly from the information of Fakymolano, and other perfons of credit, it will not be amifs to fay fomething of the ifland inland. C H A P~ CHAPTER X. Of the Great Lano or Lake—Account of the Illano Sultans and Rajahs who live on its Banks—Certain Laws of the Mindanoers—Form of Governments-Taxes laid on the Haraforas—Their Drefs* TH E Illanos have been converted to Mahometanifm, fmce the people of Magindano embraced that religion. The boundary between them and the Magindanoers is unfettled. Sometime ago, a large fifh, with valuable teeth, being eaft afhore in the Illano diftricls, near Pulo Ebus, there arofe a difpute, who fhould have the teeth: but the Magindanoers carried it. This has already been hinted. All I can fay of this lake, is from the information of fome intelligent perfons, who were at Mindano in November, 1776, on the marriage of the eldeft fon of an Illano Rajah, to a daughter of Rajah Moodo's. The feftival lafted ten days. Soon after my arrival at Magindano, I made an excurfion to Tubug harbour, and to the ifland Ebus, accompanied, in a covered bark, by Datoo Enty, fon to Rajah Moodo. Had I then known this part of the ifland fo civilized, as I found it afterwards j I mean with regard to fafety in travelling from place to place, place, at lead to the Great Lano, the banks of which are full of people, and the road from Tubug well frequented ; I fhould certainly have vifited that lake; efpecially, as at Tubug, I was within a day's journey of it, by land, and horfes were to be had. The inhabitants of this country have generally their name from the lake on which they refide. The inlanders dwell chiefly towards the eafl, where are faid to be thirty thoufand men, intermixed in many places with the Haraforas, who feem to be the primitives of the ifland. On the N. coafl of Magindano, the Spaniards have had great fuc-cefs, in converting to Chriflianity thofe Haraforas. Their agreeing in one ehential point, the eating of hog's flem, may, in a great meafure, have paved the way. The Illano Rajahs, who are Mahometans, live on pretty good terms with the Spaniards of Eligan ; but I* have been told, the road is not fo fafe from the Lano to Eligan, as from its oppofite fide to Tubug. The diflance is equal, being about a day's journey to either place, and the crofling the Lano takes part of a day ; which makes about three days requifite from fea to fea. There is certainly a fhorter cut from fea to fea-; I mean, from the bottom of the Great Illano Bay, formed by Pulo Ebus to the eaft ward, and Point de Flechas to the weftward ; and this is not far from the bottom of the bay of Siddum or Panguyl. By what I could learn, the Lano is between fifteen and twenty miles acrofs, and about fixty miles round, its length lying eaft and weft. N n Towards 274 A V O Y A G £ JffP' Towards the fouth weft part, from Gunnapy to Sawir, it is high December. r r/ ° 1—ground, and there the lake is faid to be fome hundred fathoms deep. From Sawir, towards Taraka, which lies to the S. E. and E. the land being low, is often flooded : here many fmall rivers difcharge themfelves into the lake, which has foundings hereabouts, ten, twenty, and thirty fathom, according to the diftance from fhore. On this fide are moft inhabitants. Moraway is fituated towards the N. E. jcorner of the lake: near it the ground is very high, and extends weftward. The only river that runs from the lake to the fea, iflues from the foot of the heights of Moraway. This river, after a winding courfe, and one or more falls, difcharges itfelf into the fea at Eligan; where is faid to be a garrifon of twenty American Spaniards, befide Bifayans. From Moraway to Madullum, which lies on the N. W. part of the lake, the country is hilly. Near Moraway is Watou, where a mofque of ftone, fituated on a height, is remarkable in fine weather from By-ang, which is on the oppofite fide of the lake. From Madullum to Gunnapy, may be called the weft fide of the lake : between them lies Madumba. From Madumba, inland, W. by N. to the high hill of Inayawan, may be about half a day's journey. From Inayawan flows, in a N. W. courfe, a river, which pours itfelf into the fea, in the bottom of the bay of Siddum. From TO NEW GUINEA* 2 From Gunnapy, weft about fix hours, is a fmall lake called Dapow, 177< whence a fmall river leads to another lake, named Nunfinghan. >__^ Along the eaft fide of the lake, from Taraka to Watou, during the N. E. monfoon, in the morning are frefti winds from the northward about ten A. M. they die away> and an oppofite wind arifes. Along the north fide of the lake, from Watou to Madullum, in the N. E. monfoon, blows a frefh wind from the hills, in the night. From Gunnapy to Sawir, in the N. E. monfoon, all day the wind blows frefti at W. and W. S. W. On the lake are four little iflands, Balak, Apou, Nufa, and Selangan. Many fifties are caught around them. N n z Kama December. ^ Names of the Sultans and Rajahs on the Banks of the Lano, and near it, with the Number of Inhabitants in their refpcSlive Territories. [S. means Sultan j R. Rajah.] Inhabitants. Inhabitant}. Taraka 10,000 Sultan. Tugaia 300 R. Ballat 1,000 S. Marantow - 700 S. Ramuin 8,000 S. Sawir 500 R. Didagun - 10,000 S. Mafia 400 R*. Poallas - 5,000 S. Mimbaly 500 R. Bun fay an 10,000 S. Byang - 1,000 S. Moraway 2,coo Rajah. Maying 1,800 S. Watou 1,000 R. Gatawan 500 R. Tampafan 400 R. Patawan 700 R, Tatayawan 300 R. Capy 700 S. Linuk 1,000 S. Paran 200 s. Bagowin 1,000 S. Mony 200 S. Byabow 300 R. Kaboboan 1000 s. Gunnapy 700 R. Nunungham 100 R, Madumba 700 S. Paiow loo R. Madullum 700 R. Dapow * 200 R, Bahalud 300 R. 8,900 52,400 52,400 Total number of Inhabitants, 61,300 * Six houn weft of the lake. All Ail thefe countries produce much gold, wax, and cinnamon, fait not being made by the fun at Magindano, as at Manila; but by fire: it is therefore dear at the Lano. Though laws * are fimilar in moft countries, each has fome peculiar: the principal of Magindano are thefe. For theft, the offender lofes his right hand, or pays threefold, juft as amongft the Mahometans of Atcheen. For maiming, death: adultery, death to both parties : fornication, a fine, -j- Inheritance goes in equal fhares to fons, and half to daughters ; the fame to grand-children. Where are no children, whole brothers and filters inherit. If there are no brothers or filters, or nephews, or nieces, or firft coufins, the Sultan claims it for the poor. It is the fame, afccnding even to the grand-uncle. If a man put away his wife, fhe gets one third of the furniture j alfo money, in proportion to his circumfiances. A child's name is not given by priefts, as in the Molucca iflands, and in other Mahometan countries. The father affembles his friends, feafts them; fhaves off a little lock of hair from the infant head, puts it into a bafon, and then buries it, or commits it to the water. The form of government at Magindano, is fomewhat upon the feudal fyftem, and in fome meafure monarchical. Next to the Sultan is Rajah Moodo, his fucceffor cleft. Then Mutufingwood, the fuper- . * The induflrions Chinefe feem to be excluded from the benefit of law : thofe in power often forcing kangans upon them, and making them yearly pay heavy intereft. + The ordinary punifhment of incontinence in female flaves to their mailers, is cutting off their hair j which was a cuftom in Germany, in former days. intendant intendant of polity, and captain Laut * overfeer of the Sultan's little navy, are both named by the Sultan. There are alfo fix Manteries, or judges named by the Sultan, and fix Amba Rajahs, or afferters of the rights of the people : their office is hereditary to the eldeft fon. Although the Sultan feems to act by and with the advice and con-fent of the Datoos, not only of his own family, but of others; yet, this compliance is perhaps only to fave appearances. When he can, he will doubtlefs be arbitrary. The vaffals of the Sultan, and of others, who poffefs great eflates, are called Kanakan. Thofe vaffals are fometimes Mahometans, though moftly Haraforas. The latter only may be fold with the lands, but cannot be fold off the lands. The Haraforas are more oppreft than the former. The Mahometan vaffals are bound to accompany their lords, on any fudden expedition ; but the Haraforas being in a great meafure excufed from fuch attendance, pay yearly certain taxes, which are not expected from the Mahometan vaffals. They pay a boifs, or land tax. A Harafora family pays ten battels of paly (rough rice) forty lb. each; three of rice, about fixty lb; one fowl, one bunch of plantains, thirty roots, called clody, or St. Helena yam, and fifty heads of Indian corn. I give this as one inftance of the utmoft that is ever paid. Then they muft fell fifty battels of paly, equal to two thoufand pound weight, for one kangan. So at Dory or New Guinea, one prong, yaluc half a dollar, or one kangan, given to a Harafora, lays a perpetual tax on him, * The office of Captain Laut was vacant when I was at Magindano j Datoo Woodine expected to be named. Thofe TO NEW GUINEA. Thofe vaffals at Magindano have what land they pi cafe; and the Mahometans on the fea coaft, whether free or kanakan, live moftly by trading with the Haraforas, while their own gardens produce them betel nuts, coco nuts, and greens. They feldom grow any rice, and they difcourage as far as they can, the Haraforas from going to Mindano, to fell the produce of their plantations. On the banks of the Pelangy and Tamantakka, the Mahometans grow much rice. The boifs is not always collected in fruits of the earth only. A tax-gatherer, who arrived at Coto Intang, when I was there, gave me the following lift of what he had brought from fome of Rajah Moodo's crown lands, being levied on perhaps live hundred families. 2870 battels of paly, of forty lb. each; 490 Spanifh dollars; 160 kan-gans6 tayls of gold, equal to 301. 160 Malons : a cloth made of the plantain tree, three yards long, and one broad. This laft mentioned cloth is the ufual wear of the country women, made in the form of a Bengal lungy, or Buggefs cloth, being a wide fack without a bottom \ and is often ufed as a currency in the market. The currency in moft parts of the conntry, is the Chinefe kangan, a piece of coarfe cloth, thinly woven, nineteen inches broad, and fix yards loner; the value at Sooloo is ten dollars for a bundle of twenty-five fealed up; and at Magindano much the fame : but, at Magindano dollars are fcarce. Thefe bundles are called gandangs, rolled up in a cylindrical form. They have alfo, as a currency, koufongs, a kind of nankeen, dyed black ; and kompow, a ftrong white Chinefe linen, made of flax ; of which more particularly hereafter. The 28o A VOYAGE December ^e k'arigans genera^y come from Sooloo; fo they are got at fecond w^-.'—i-j hand : for the Spaniards have long hindered Chinefe junks, bound from Amoy to Magindano, to pafs Samboangan. This is the caufe of fo little trade at Magindano, no veflels failing from Indoflan thither; and the little trade is confined to a few country Chinefe, called Oran Sangly, and a few Soolooans who come hither to buy rice and paly,, bringing with them Chinefe articles i for the crop of rice at Sooloo-can never be depended on. In the bazar, or market, the immediate currency is paly. Ten gantangs of about four pound each, make a battel; and three battels* (a cylindrical meafure, thirteen inches and five tenths high; the fame in diameter) about one hundred and twenty pound of paly, are commonly fold for a kangan. Talking of the value of things here, and at Sooloo, they fay, fuch a houfe or prow, &c* is worth fo many ilaves; the old valuation being one Have for thirty kangans. They alfo fpecify in their bargains, whether is- meant matto (eye) kangan, real kangan, or nominal kangan. The dealing in the nominal, or imaginary kangan, is an ideal barter. When one deals for the real kangans, they muff, be examined; and the gandangs, or bundles of twenty-five pieces, are not to be trufted, as the dealers will often forge a feal, having firft packed up damaged kangans. In this the Chinefe here, and at Sooloo, are very expert. The China cafh at Magindano* named poufin, have holes as in China. I found them fcarce; their price is from one hundred and fixty Fixty, to one hundred and eighty for a kangan. At Scoloo, is coined a cam of bafe copper, called petis, of which two hundred, down to one hundred and feventy, go for a kangan. Into the copper cadi, fometimes is put a little bit of filver very thin, about the tenth of an inch fquare. Thefe are double cam, and called melTuru. From one hundred and fixty, to two hundred, of thofe merfurus, may be had for a Spanifh dollar. I have not feen many of the Sooloo cafh at Magindano. Fakymolano and Rajah Moodo were willing to admit, as a currency, a copper coin of two China mace in weight, with the name of Kybad Zachariel on one fide, and the Company's arms on the other; ninety-fix of them were to pafs for a Spanim dollar: this number was pitched upon as mofl divifible. At that rate cent, per cent, would be gained upon them; which is much about what the Dutch gain on their doits, current all over Java, and wherever they have fettlements among Malays. All kinds of Indoftan cloths anfwer well here, efpecially, long cloth ordinary, white, blue, and red handkerchiefs of all kinds; chintz preferably, with dark grounds ; Surat goods of molt forts, particularly pittolies, and all kinds of European cutlery. Many Chinefe articles are carried from Sooloo to Magindano, efpecially kangans, beads, gongs, china bafons with red edges; deep brafs plates, five in a fet; deep faucers, three and four inches diameter ; brafs wire, and iron. O o On 282 A VOYAGE '775- a* thofe-beam ends, the veffels are always leaky. At Sooloo they build in the fame manner, and my veffel was fo constructed; but, knowing where the water came in, I round it not fo. alarming. The gunpowder they make is large grained and weak. They have goldfmrths, who make filligree buttons, earmgs,&c. pretty well, but not near fo well as Malays generally do on Sumatra and Java. Their blackfmiths are incapable of making any thing that requires more ingenuity than a common nail. Rajah Moodo had feveral Bi-fayan flaves ; one of them could mend a gun lock : he fitted my rudder irons. Others amongft them were tolerable filverfmiths, and thofe he kept in conftant employ; but the Mindanoers have almoft all their tulinary utenfils from China, by way of Sooloo; and I was furprifed not to find here, as at Sooloo, copper currency in the market, where all was bought and fold with rough rice, and Chinefe kangans. Rajah Moodo beftows wives on the Bilayan foldiers in his fort, generally flaves from the fame country. They have a weekly allowance of rice. When any of thofe females have been caught going aftray, they are tied up to a poft, and chaftifed by thofe of the fame rank in the fort, who, one after another, give each her ftripc with a ratan. I have feen it infliaed i but the punifhment was very gentle. The man had his feet put into the flocks for two or three days. Fond of bathing, they go into the river at leaft once in twenty-four hours. They bathe at all times of the day; but generally morning and evening. rodier in law to Rajah Moodo, from Magindano, to the coaft of Celebes. The prow, which left Magindano, during the N. E. monfoon, after pafTing Serangani, went to the following iflands before me reached Celebes. Firft Kalingal, three hoars from Serangani: it is inhabited, and refembles Englifh Bunwoot* Then, in one day to Kubio : it is uninhabited: In another day to the ifland Kabulufu, near the north part of Sangir. Hence in one day to Karakita, which afforded fome provifion; Hence, in one day to Siao, near which fhe got plenty" of provifions on a fmall ifland, behind which is a fine'harbour. Thence, to Tagulanda in half a day, thence to Banka, and thence to Tellufyang, which is near the coaft of Celebes. On Celebes, they take, if in Dutch territory, even thofe of their own religion : a decent muffelman, with his wife and four children, were brought to Mindano, by tills very prow. They have particular laws amongft themfelves, during thofe piratical cruifes ; and keep up a certain order and difcipline. In rowing, at which, from habit, they are dextrous, they have always a fong as a kind of tactic, and beat on two brafs timbrels to keep time. I have known one man on board my little veffel opportunely, with fometimes a Molucca, fometimes a Mindano Mangaio fong, revive the reft, who from fatigue, were drouling at their oars; and operate with pleaiing power, what no proffered reward could cfft& : fo cheated, they will row a whole night. MAGI N 1776. January. MAGINDANO MANGAIO SONG. E, afi, magia, Umi apan magia, Ejondon tafalinow 1 Ejondon tafalinow. CHORUS. Chcar up—hurrah ! Chear up—hurray ! Let's gain the ocean far away; Lct*s gain the ocean far away. Elyka pulo mawatten, Marakel fura fahan; Elyka pulo mawatten, Makauma magean. Firft Man. Behold yon ifland afar, What fifties abound in its main ; Behold yon ifland afar, Hafte, hafle, and the fifties obtain, CHORUS REPEATED. Second Man. Mafikoon faingud Capez, Mapia Caftila babaye, Makohat faingud Capez, Dumayon kito panamaye. Faft by the Capezine land, Caflilian dames you will find : My lads, to make Capezine land, Pull, pull, with the whole of your mind. The Malabars, in the Mafoola Boats at Madras, have alfo their Song : ■ j\i li ma ten clay, Ai lee ai lee, Ai li ma ten day, Ai lee ai lee. Chear up, Pull aiuay, Chear up, Pull aivay. J ft Men id Ma,,. A ra kee a ray Chi ra wa tee ? A ra kec van day ? Chi ra wa tee. Where lives Chiraivatee ?* Who goes to bring Chira-ivatee ? A ve hi na lu Pa kuva ma, Pa ku va ma. Of all The mojl comely, The mofi comely. 9 Chirawatee, the name of a Bramin woman. The The Moors, in what is called country (hips in Eafl: India, have alfo their chearing fongs; at work in holding, or in their boats a rowing. The Javans and Molucca people have theirs. Thofe of the Malays are drawling and infipid. In Europe the French provencals have their fong : it is the reverfe of lively. The Mangaio is brifk, the Malabar tender. The Greeks and Romans had their Celeufma or chearing fong. Martial feems to have made one, III. 67. Ceflatis, pueri, nihilque mortis ? Vatreno, Eridanoque pigriores ? Quorum per vada tarda navigantes, Lcntos figitis ad celeufma remos. Jam prono Phaethonte fudat /Ethon ; Exarfttque dies, et hora lalfos Interjungit equos neridiana. At vos tarn placidas vagi per undas, Tuta luditis otium carina : Non nautas puto vos, fed Argonautas. Why, my lads, more fluggifh go, Than Vatrenus, or the Po ? Think ye through their ftill ye fteer. Drawling oars to wait the chear? Phaeton begins to fire, Ethon lo ! in full pcrfpire j Now the noon-tide hour proceeds, To repofe the panting fteeds. Ye, ferene upon the wave, Sun, and wind, and water brave. No mere navigators now, Ye are Argonauts, * I vow. Orators, as well as poets, celebrate the nautic fong. Thus Quin-tilian -t Siquidem et remiges cant us hortatur: nec folum in iis operibus, in quibus plurium conatus, prceeunte aliqua jucunda voce, confpirat; fed etiam Jingulorum fatigatio quamlibet fe rudi modidatione folatur. " Thus the " fong chears the rowers : nor only in thofe tafks, where, a melodious *' voice leading, the exertion of numbers confpires; but even the fart tigue of each fooths itfelf, by however a rude modulation." Valentine, in his account of Magindano, fays, " The ifland is often called by the inhabitants, Molucca Bazar, (great Molucca) j"—after deferring its fituation, he goes on : " The country appears mountainous, * Argonauts, (in one fenfe) fluggijh Mariners. R r the A VOYAGE the foil rich, with prodigious large trees : there are large rivers in the country, alfo fmall ones, and all kind of tropical fruits. u The climate is healthy, notwithstanding there are dreadful ftorms during the S. W. monfoon. During the N. E. monfoon, there is fine weather. Of the land itfelf, lefs can be faid, it being lefs known : the towns are all without walls. The Sultan refides on the fouth fide of the country, where is an illand named Bongat *, to the weftward of which, there is a large bay. The city of the chief nigri, lies ten miles up a river, and is not called Mindanao, but Catibtuan, where the king's houfe is built on two hundred large piles, with a grand flair, and fifteen or fixteen guns, regularly mounted on carriages. Wax, rice, roots, and wild deer, are the chief articles of trade in this country, and thofe fcarce. They have a language of their own. " If there is gold, it is very rare; nor has any been feen fince the year 1687; and what appeared then, is likely to have come by means of fome Englifh, who robbed the Spaniards in the South Sea, and came thither with Captain Swan, and the celebrated Dampier. The Sultan and others having murdered Swan, ufed his gold in ornaments for their weapons, which induced the Dutch to think that gold was the produce of the ifland. " When the Dutch were there in 1688, and 1689, they were more particular in their obfervations on that fubject and having communicated their opinion to Mr. Thim, governor of Ternate, that there was no gold, they afterwards found it wrong, and that there is fome little 5 Bunwoot, I fuppofe. old, 306 1776. Jannary. TO NEW GUINEA. 307 gold, either there, or on the ifland Serangani, of which we mall here- Jjgfr after make mention." After giving, from report, an account of the fituat ion of a few places, he goes on, and fays, " The Sultan is often at war with the Mountaineers, who are favages, and amongft whom gold is faid to be, as alfo, amongft the inhabitants of the N. W. fide of the ifland." He fays again, P The Mountaineers carry their gold duft and wax to trade with the moft civilized of the Mindanoers; that the inhabitants on the N. W. part of the ifland trade with the Spaniards of Manilla, and that the Spaniards have fome forts on the S. W. part of the illand, but that neither the Sultan nor the inhabitants are fond of letting ftrangers have forts amongft them." He then mentions the report of their offering to make a treaty with Dampier, and to have allowed him to fettle. " Let this exaggerated account be what it may," fays Valentine, " it is certain, that when our people went thither in 1694, the Sultan, his brother, and the admiral, told them, that the Englifh had fome time before afked leave to erea a fort, to fecure their trade, and for which they had offered to pay four thoufand rix dollars yearly, but they were flatly denied, in like manner as the Dutch were in 1689 : wherefore I think Dampier muft have been milled; though it may be owing to the inclination thofe people have to trade with ftrangers, but not more with the Dutch than the Englifh; becaufe both thofe nations are looked upon by them as being poffeffed of great power, and they are always afraid of foreigners getting a footing, left they take poffeffion of their country. Wherefore, although on all other occafions, they behave with civility to ftrangers, they are deaf to any overtures about fettling. Neither do I imagine there is gold at the ifland Meangis, as R r 2 Dampier 1776. Dampier alledges ; if fuch fowls flew there, it would foon appear upon , January 1-—,—.j the feathers of the poor Mindanoers, which very much befpeak the contrary, " From Ternate we have little intercourfe with this ifland, except when a deputation of the north ifland committee goes thither. In the year 1607 Motilif went there; and in 1616 Joris van Spilbergen r failed paft the ifland, on the 18th March; and Admiral Gillis Scyft, in 1627, mentions fomethingof the iflands Magindano and Serangani, in his General Hiflory of the Moluccas. It is certain, feveral deputations were fent from Ternate, under Mr. Thim, and in the time of Monf. de Long, for the purpofe of feeking gold, and to take it where it could be found. In 1689, Lieutenant Meindert de Roi, went out with an offer of two thoufand rix dollars, from the Dutch Eaft India Company, as a prefent to the Sultan, for liberty to build a fort; but was politely refufcd. " In 1693, Admiral Vanderduin and Mynheer Haak were there, after making a furvey of the iflands Tagalanda, Siaou, Sangir, 6cc. When he left Siaou, he heard of fix Englifh mips being at Magindano : he then paffed Serangani, and arriving at Magindano, near the river,oppofite which lies Bongat,(Bunwoot) he failed thence to Bolak (Pollock) harbour, where he faluted with feven guns; but had no return. In 1694, more Englifh appeared, who requeued leave to build a fort; but were refufed. They purchafcd cooley lovvang, (clove bark) at the rate of fix rix dollars a pecul, and wax at twenty-five a pecul. f When TONEW'GUINE. A. $oc "When the Dutch Admiral returned, in the year 1694, they in- January. formed the governor of Ternate, that no advantage could accrue to u»v-the Directors of the Eaft India Company from that ifland, becaufe the natives themfelves carried their produce in their veifels to Manilla, Batavia, Malacca, and even to Siam : they alfo declared, that moil: of the gold they met with there, was brought from- Manilla, by the inhabitants, or Spaniards, or by Englifh pirates. The Dutch Admiral and Mynheer Haak were very particular in their enquiries about gold; but there was not the leaft appearance of it. Touching at Serangani, the fon of the king of Kandahar, on Sangir, came to them, and told the Dutch admiral, that Serangani belonged to his father : he brought fome rice ; but afked dear for it : he alfo afked dear for bufc locks, faying, the Englilh had given twenty-five and thirty rix dollars a piece; twenty rix dollars a pecul for wax, and twelve rix dollars for the weight of a rix dollar of gold duft. In 1700, Captain Roofelaur was fent by order of the States to Magindano ; but he died, and it was reported he was poifoned. Of forty foldiers and fifty failors, only feven returned in health. He met with much gold, and faw-there many Chinefe junks." So far Valentine, publifhed at Amfter-dam, 1724. I cannot leave Mindano, without acquainting the reader, that the Sultan Paharadine told me, his father had affured him, Captain Swan was drowned accidentally, by a boat's overfetting; and that his Jerry-tulis (clerk) fwam fafe afhore; as did the crew, (Mindanoers) with the lofs of their cloaths and arms. CHAP- CHAPTER XIII. Account of the Iflands Sangir—Tulour, or Tanna-Labw—Salibabo—Kabruang—Nanufan—Karakita—Palla—Tagulanda—Banka, and Tellu-fyang, from the Information of Datoo JVoodine. SANGIR was formerly independant, being governed by a prince of its own, till a quarrel broke out between him and the Sultan of Ternate. It feems the Rajah of Sangir had given to the Sultan of Ternate, his daughter, who unfortunately bore a child in fix months after marriage. This happened fince the Dutch have been in pof-ferfton of the Moluccas, as they now are of Sangir, which they eafily guard with a fergeant and ten or twelve foldiers. The Dutch difcourage Mahometanifm, and by miflionaries make many converts to chrifiianity. The minifters preach in the Malay tongue to thofe who understand it, and have fubordinate black preachers, who fpeak the language of the country. I have fome Malay fer-mons printed in the Roman character. They were got with other plunder on board the Dutch floop that was burnt, when attacked by Malfalla's Mangaio prow, as mentioned in the journal. The crew having fired her, took to their boat, while fome bold Mindano men jumped on board and faved many things j among the reft, two Dutch brafs fwivel guns, two pounders. I once 1 once in conversation with Fakymolano, faid to him, that Sangir »7*6. being a fmall ifland compared with Magindano, and lying near it, had furely belonged to fome of his anceftors. This I did, in order to try him; but he was too fincere to deny that Sangir was always independant, till lately the Dutch had got it from Ternate. The iflands of Salibabo, Kabruang and Nanufan, were under Sangir, conf quently now under the Dutch; but no European was at Leron or Salibabo, when I was there* Malary Rajah of Sangir, a great many years ago, had a granddaughter named Sembaflin, who married Abdaraman, Sultan of Magindano. Her brother Manalantan, Rajah of Sangir, gave Salibabo, and the fourth part of the ifland Tulour, to his grand nephew Fakymolano. This gives Magindano a right to fome part of the Sangir dominion ; and on this ifland of Tulour, Fakymolano's brother was killed in a fray, in the year 1773. Polfibly he was exercifing his power too roughly : for the revenues are molt cruelly colle&ed from thofe defencelefs iflanders, in a certain number of flaves. The inhabitants are continually accufmg one another of trefpaffes, in order that the Kolano, or head man of a village, may, by trial and fine, make up the number annually demanded. Sangir is an oblong ifland, extending from the latitude of 3* 30', to 40 30' north, and lying in the longitude of 1220 20' eafl of Greenwich. It is broad eft towards the north end, and tapers fmall towards the fouth, where the coaltis indented with many bays, before feveral of which lie iflands affording good anchorage within them. About About the middle of the wefl coafl of the ifland, is the town, harbour, and bay of Taroona; oppofite which, on the eafl coafl, is alfo a town and harbour called Tabookang, the harbour being fheltered from the N. E. by two pretty large iflands, Pulo Noeffa, and Pulo Bookit, the latter highly cultivated. Many more harbours are towards the fouth end of this ifland, along the middle of which runs a ridge of high mountains, terminated to the northward by a high volcano, from which, according to Valentine, was an eruption in 1711, preceded by a dreadful earthquake. Valentine fays alfo, there are forty-fix iflands, large and fmall, around Sangir, and that the king or Kandahar on Sangir, had a claim upon part of Mindano. Sangir contains many Nigris : the chief are Tabookan, Kandahar, Taroona, Maganaloo and Sarab, in all which are reckoned about fix thoufand males, who wear breeches. It abounds in coco nuts, as do many iflands that lie near it. A fathom of fmall brafs wire, fuch as is ufed at the end of a fifhing line, will purchafe a hundred coco nuts; an ordinary knife three hundred ; and four knives a battel (60 lb.) of coco nut oil. This I mention, as the rate of barter or exchange to thofe who may occafionally touch there, and are not in a hurry. It has alfo bullocks, goats, hogs, and poultry; but its chief export is coco nut oiL While I was at Magindano, fometlme before Watamama's lafl ill— nefs, he fitted out a Mangaio prow, as has already been hinted. She was quite new, about thirty tons burden, had a great deal of room on her deck, and galleries around her; but fo little room below, that fhe was continually fwagging from fide to fide: which is the cafe with all all their veifels, more or lefs, and was with mine. I obferved that they lanched her without any thing on her bottom. They faid they would bream and pay her bottom in about ten days. She was declared bound to the illand of Tulour, and the coaft ot Celebes : poffibly to take fatisfaction at the former, for the death of Fakymolano's brother at Ramis. Before fhe failed, (he rowed up the Melampy, as has been mentioned, about three miles; I went in her. At about that diftance from Coto Intang, they ftopt clofe to a grove of fpreading trees, under the made of which lay a rude heap of coral rock ftones, by the river fide. This was the burial place of their great anceftor Serif, who came from Mecca. Every man ftepped out holding a bit of wax candle, which he lighted, fixed on one of the ftones, and left burning, after faying fome prayers, and making a felam, This performed in about twenty minutes, all came again on board. They rowed at the rate of four miles an hour. The number of oars was fixteen of a fide ; but, as they were all fixed by ratans at the edge of the gallery, as many more might have been fixed within thofe: for the oars led (if I may fo fay) much up and down, making a great angle with the horizon. She had a very high tripod m.-.ft. I faw the crew making their powder: about eight men atone time were beating it in a wooden mortar. When made, the grains were very coarfe. She mounted two four pounders abreaft of each other, on her prow or forecaftle, and a great many brafs rantackers. Every man lays in his own provifion, rice only. The owner gives nothing but the hull, for which he has one third of the prizes. Mails, fails, an- S s chors, 3*3 1776. January. <--v--J chcrs, and cables, are made by the crew. This prow was to carrji eighty men, and drew about four foot fix inches water. Tulour, or Tanna Labu, lies in the latitude of 40 45' N. and longitude 1240 E. It is fituated about feventy miles eaft of the north part of Sangir, and may be, fo far as I could judge, in palling, about thirty leagues round.* It is of middling height, whereas Sangir has fome very high mountains. The inhabitants live on the fea coaft, and have their planta- . ■ /P* * ***#r ixy 1 3fll iJDmi t-'/rr.i vrl! .5*70,1 *o tions up in the country. The following names of the villages along more, and the number of inhabitants I had from Datoo Woodine, who being employed by Fakymolano to go thither, kept a regifter, which I took down from his mouth, as he explained it in the Malay tongue, in which we con-verfed. I mail begin at the N W part, where is faid to be a harbour behind an illand called Gugid, and fo fhall go round the ifland from the northward. Next to Gugid is * Valentine lays it down by the name of Karkallang, fhapes it like 3 right angled triangle, gives it about the fame compafs, and makes a promontory at the north jut pretty far into the fea.- Pampang TONEW GUINEA. Pampang, ■containing 200 Inhabitants Mannaka 70 Sabay - 200 Marahi * 70 Carangan - 300 Kiamma 40 Malla River 200 Malla 100 JIfTang - 200 Anyam + 100 Andolang 200 Karangug 60 Bulud - 100 Tavrong 100 Mamang - 200 Bataruma 40 Bamboon - 400 Neampai 150 Tatoran, a Harbour 800 Marake 200 Gummy _ — •5° Makalang 200 Karanka - 200 Bulad 200 Tarukan - 60 Dugid 200 Malla Bundad Appan Gunnyo r 1 I Under one j S J iooo ^ Kolano j IOO Ammat Dappichi Rim Tukadbatu 400 600 300 Babunbaru - 70 Tab an 100 Tattapuan, a good harbour 200 Ramis, a harbour * 300 Saban - 200 Pulutan 300 i Tury Ray hey Ruflu IOOO 300 4850 4880 4850 Males who wear breeches 973° • Here Fakymolano's brother was killed. S s 2 The The ifland is under twenty Kolanos The office of Kolano de* fcends from father to fon ; but intereit often obtains a nomination from Ternate or Sangir. The ifland of Salilabo lies to the fouthward of Tulour, being di* vided only by a narrow ftrait, about one mile wide. It is not above eight or ten miles round, and is admirably cultivated. It contains, moftly at the fea fide, the villages of Leron, containing 300 inhabitants. Karungan, 200, JMorong, 300 Sarunkar, 100 Sally, 70 Bayor, 5° Dallong, 2QO Muffy, - 3° Tuad, 5° Dinkallan, 70 Siry, 70 Salibabo 170 990 620 99a Males who wear breeches, 1610 Kabruang is fomewhat fmaller than Salibabo, * to the S. E. of it; and is parted from it by a ftrait, about four miles wide. This ifland is in high cultivation ; and may be feen eighteen leagues off, being remarkable for a peaked hill, about the middle; whereas Salibabo, * Salibabo and Kabruang are well laid down by Valentine. at at a diflance, makes like a table land. Valentine fays, Kabruang.belongs to the king of Siao ; on it are the villages of Kabruang, containing 300 inhabitants. Aras, - 70 Mangara, - 500 Bera' " 5° Bulud, - 3001 ESis' " 40 Pangerang, - Reoran, - 30 Tuadobally, - 5°° ____ P*ntU> " *° Damow, - 2°° _ 220 1850 *&5° Males who wear breeches, 2070 I learned from the blind Chinefe, who came on board to vifit me, when I went into the harbour of Leron, on Salibabo, that, about fix leagues to the N. E- of the latter, were three low iflands, of no great extent, forming a harbour. The name of the largefl ifland was Na- nufa, containing male inhabitants, - - 400 The next, Kakarutan, containing - 700 And the third, Karatan, containing - - 200 Total,-- 1300 The inhabitants of the ifland called Nanufa, are chiefly boat-builders. At Leron harbour, as has been faid, I had the offer of a Nanufa built boat, remarkably cheap but as fhe wanted fitting out, and was hauled 3*8 A VOYAGE ,77^- hauled up on the more, I dreaded fome mifunderflandins; that i January. r ° ° ~j arife, before fhe were ready. Karakita and Palla are two iflands, which have been mentioned in the journal; as has the high ifland Siao j * where the Dutch entertain a fchoolmafler, a corporal and a few foldiers. Provifions are in plenty, and the harbour on the eafl fide is good. The mountain is fometimes a volcano. « Next is Tagulanda, whence may be difcerned the coafl of Celebes. Two iflands form a harbour, in the flrait between them. On one of the iflands is a pretty high hill. Tagulanda contains about two thoufand inhabitants: it is governed by a Kolano and a Gogo. Being Pagans, they eat pork ; having alfo many goats, fome bullocks, and coco nuts in abundance. The Dutch keep here a corporal and two foldiers; alfo a fchoolmafler, for teaching the children the principles of Chriftianity. Three prongs, a kind of large chopping knives, will purchafe a bullock and one, a thoufand coco nuts. * The iflands Sangir, Siao, and Tagulanda, are obliged, when Ternate is at war, to jfurnifh the following numbtr of corocoros : On Sangir, corocoros. men. On Siao corocoros. men. Tabookan - 6 300 Pehe - 4 200 Taroona - 4 200 Oeloe - 2 100 Candahar - 3 150 Tagulanda - 3 150 Manganitoe - 3 150 —---. — - 19 450 16 800 16 800 Total number of corocoros and men, —— 25 1250 Sangir had, by Valentine's account, 4,080 fencible men, and 12,820 fouls, which agrees pretty well with Datoo Wqpdinc's. Next Next is Banka, remarkable for a high hill : it has a harbour on its fouth end; is pretty well inhabited, and abounds in coco nuts, limes, nankas or jacks, fiih, turtle, and ratans. From it Celebes is more vifible than from Tagulanda. Near Banka is the ifland Tellufyang, that is, harbour of Syang, called Taliffe by Valentine. This harbour, faid to be good, is on the fouth end of the ifland, which has a hilt upon it. There are fome wild cattle, no other inhabitants. Thefe iflands are much frequented by the Mangaio cruifers, not only from Magindano, but from Sooloo. CHAP. A V O Y A Q E C H A P T E R XIV. Of the IJland Sooloo—Claims of the Spaniards to any Sovereignty over that IJland refuted—Climate—Fruits—Government—Articles from China carried thither, and Returns—Diffipation of the Datoos—Pearl Fijhing Harbours--Cruelty to Slaves—Fray between the Sooloos and the Englijh-Buggejes—General Char abler of the Sooloos—Many In/lances their Treachery* rjp H E Sooloos fay, their ifland * was formerly a part of the ancient Borneo empire, founded by the Chinefe but the Mindanoers, as has been hinted, aflert, the Sooloos were once tributary to them. Be that as it may, this ifland had been at war with the Spaniards, before the year 1646 j and on the 14th of April, of the faid year, peace was made between them, by the mediation of the King of Mindano ; upon * The ifland Sooloo lies fouth weft from Mindano, and is governed by a king of its own. It is far from being large ; but, its fituation between Mindano and Borneo makes it the mart of all the Moorifh kingdoms. I do not find, that the Portuguefe ever pretended to fettle, much lefs to conquer thefe iflands j but they vifited them frequently* for the fake of trade j and in thofe days, there was greater commerce in thefe parts, than can well be imagined. For, while the trade was open to Japan, there came from thence two or three fliips laden with filver, amber, filks, chefts, cabinets, and other curiofities, made of fweet feen ted woods ; with vaft quantities of filks, quilts, and earthen ware, from China. For thefe the merchants of Golconda exchanged their diamonds, thofe of Ceylon their rubies, topazes, and fapphires ; from Java and Sumatra came pepper, and fpices from the Moluccas. Dalrymple's PROors. Harris's History of the Portuguese Empire, p, 685. which TO NEW GUINEA. $2X which the Spaniards withdrew from Sooloo, flill r.ferving to themfelves 1776. the fovereignty of the iflands Tappool, Seaffee, Balanguifan, and Pan- .w^Z^ gaterran. The Sooloos agreed alfo to give in fign of brotherhood, yearly, three veifels laden with rice. This is related in Combes's account of Magindano. The reafon of this fudden peace was fear of the Dutch aflifting Sooloo; and the Spaniards dreaded, that to be driven off the illand, might hurt the reputation of their arms.* The treaty of Munfter was made two years after this peace, in 1648, by which the navigation of the Spaniards is retrained5 for the treaty fays, *' It is further agreed, that the Spaniards fliall maintain their navigation in the manner it at prefent is, without being able to extend it farther in the Eaft Indies." This is particularly fet forth by Mr, Dalrymple; alfo, that the Sooloos made lately with the Spaniards treaties of alliance, offenfive and defenfive, as the Spanifh governor declared in a letter wrote to the Englifh governor of Manila. Mr. Dalrymple firft made the Englifh acquainted with the Sooloos, and procured from them, for the India Company, a grant of country, that furely cannot be claimed by any European power—the north part of Borneo, and fome iflands north of it; of which more hereafter. The ifland of Sooloo is fituated in the latitude of 6° N. and longitude 1190 E. from Greenwich. It is thirty miles long, twelve broad; and may contain fixty thoufand inhabitants. This ifland, lying about midway between the iflands of Borneo and Magindano, is well cultivated ; affording a fine profpetf; from the fea, * Pedro Murille Velarde's Account of the Philippines. T t on on every ride, far fuperior to that of Malay countries in general. Thofe that 1 have feen come neareft to it, in appearance, are, that part of the coaft of Sumatra, between Atcheen Head and Pedir, the north coaft of Java, the fouth coaft of the ifland Bally, the country about Malacca, part of the north coaft of Borneo, the iflands of-SalU babo and Kabruang. Sooloo being an illand not very large, and the hills on it not being very high, nor confequently the clouds ftopt by them, it has no certain rainy feafon, as have the large Malay iflands. There is not fuch difference in the wetnefs of the feafons or monfoons, as on continents or very large iflands j but the S. W. monfoon brings moft rain. Much falls at the change of the monfoons ; efpecially the autummh The capital town is called Bowan, fituated by the fea coaft, on the N. W. part of the ifland, and containing about fix thoufand inhabitants. Many of them are 111 anon, or Oran Illano, with whom we are acquainted, and who live in a quarter by themfelves. • A hill near the town, is pretty high, and at night generally capt with a cloud. Other Hills, of inferior height, are fometimes alfo covered in the evening. Thefe clouds feed the rivulets which run from the hills. The land wind here is faint and reaches not far. The ifland being rather fmall for its number of inhabitants-, fhey ftudy agriculture more than do thofe of the adjacent iflands, already mentioned, where land may be deemed of no value. The Sooloos plant rice; but the crop cannot be depended on, as they are not fure of nun, 1 hey therefore cultivate many roots, the Spanifh, or fweet potatoe, TO NEW GUINEA. potatoe, the clody, or St. Hillano yam, the China yam, both red and white; fending to Mindano for what rice they confume. They have great variety of fine tropical fruits ; their oranges are full as good as thofe of China. They have alfo a variety of the fruit called Jack, or Nanka, Durians, a kind of large cuftard apple named Mi-dang, Mangoes., Manguftines, Rambuftines, and a fruit they call Bo-lona, like a large plumb, or Mangoe, white infide. In great abundance do they enjoy a very innocent and delicious fruit, by Malays called Lancey. The trees in the woods are loaded with this fruit, which is large, and ripens well : this it does not on the illand of Sumatra, where, perhaps, it finds too much moifture. The Sooloos having great connexion with China, and many Chinefe being fettled amongft them, they have learned the art of ingrafting and improving their fruits, while the fruits at Magindano have remained indifferent. The Sooloos have a very good breed of horfes, which they train to trot faft, feldom fuffering them to gallop. When I was there in tioned in the journal. At Sooloo are none of thofe beautiful birds called Loories j but there is abundance of diminutive Cocatores, and fmall green parrots. There is no fpice tree, but the cinnamon. Here are wild elephants, the offspring, doubtlefs, of thofe fent in former days from the continent of India, as prefents to the kings of Sooloo. Thofe animals avoid meeting with horned cattle j though they are not fhy of horfes. Sooloo has fpotted deer, abundance of goats and black cattle j but the people feldom milk their cows. They T t 2 have have no fheep, except a very few from Samboangan. The wild hogs are numerous, and do much mifchief, by breaking down fences. After harveft, the Sooloos hunt the elephants and wild hogs, endeavouring to deitroy them. This ifland enjoys a perpetual fummer. Up the country, it is always cool, efpecially under the fhade of the teak trees, which are numerous, as on Java. This tree, fo well known in India for con-ftrucling the bell (hips, has a broad leaf, which, bruifed between the fingers, flams the hand red. The induftrious Chinefe gather thofe leaves, and the leaves of the fruit tree called Madang, to line the bafkets of cane or bamboo, in which they pack up the fwallo they export in great quantities, from this place. They are attentive to dry it in the fun, as it is apt to give with the leaft moiflure. The Chinefe muft gain handfomely by their trade hither; elfe they would not put up with the rough ufage they fometimes receive from the fturdy barons, the Datoos. Lift 5£S Lift of the Articles that generally compofe the Cargo of a Chinefe Junk, t^t. of which Two come annually from Amoy to Sooloo* and pafs to the j30u^ eafward ojParagoa* Coft in China. Sell for it 2000 Galangp (falvers of brafs) feven to a pecul, loo Peculs iron, in fmall pieces, like Bengal iron —- Sugar candy, a quantity, per pecul - 50 Raw filk ditto -. —_ 3000 Pieces black kowfongs, a kind of nankeen, per piece 5000 Pieces kompow, white ftrong linen - 500 Kangans, 25 in a bundle, called gandangs, per gandang 200 Quallis, an iron thin pan, three foot diameter each 500 Nefts of quallis, three in a neft - One million of pieces China ware, confiding of fmall ter-~| rencs and bafons in nefts, big and fmall, plates and ba- L, fons with red edges for Mindano, &c. &c. per hundred j 20Q> Pieces of flowered filks - ..... Befides tea, cutlery, and other hard ware, brafs wire, gongs, beads of all colours, like fwan ftiot—fire works, &c. &c. in Dollars. Sooloo 40 70 4 8 7 10 400 600 1 I 7 10 I 2' 1 2 v • a 6 10 The Returns are in the following Articles* , Coft at Sooloo. Selling prie« in China. Black fwallo per pecul White ditto Wax — Teepye or pearl oyfter fhclls Birds nefts per catty — Tortoifhell, price uncertain 15 10 15 3° 20 5 9 Alfo agal agal, a fea weed ufed as gum or glue, and many other articles, fuch as Ca-rooang oil, clove bark, black wood, ratans, fago, various barks for dying,_Caflia, nt\vp /»omr»hir<* fandat wood, rnrirnic fKp11g>u"«J-p*-iW)i, WniCn great judgment to deal in, alfo feed pearl from the Molucca iflands, and fpices. t—wtern yA> A V O Y A G E, *77^< The Sulunfhip in Sooloo is hereditary, but the government mixt. January. ■ , . : ; :,}\ About fifteen Datoos, who may. be"called the nobility, make tho greater part of the legiflature. Their title is hereditary to the elded ion, and they fit in council with the Sultan. The Sultan has two votes in this afTembly, and. each>Datoo has one. The heir apparent (who, when I was there, was Datoo Alamoodine) if he fide with the Sultan, has two votes; but, if againfl him, only one. There are two reprefen-tatives of the people, called Manteries, like the military tribunes of the Romans. The common people of Sooloo, called Teliimanhood, enjoy much real freedom, owing to the above reprefentation; but the Teliimanhood, or vaffals of the adjacent iflands named Tappool, SeafTcc, Tawee-tawee and others, being the eftates of particular Datoos,. are often ufedin a tyrannical manner by their chiefs. I have been told that their haughty lords viliting their eftates, will fometimes with impunity demand and carry off young women, whom they happen to fancy, to fwell the number of their Sandies (Concubines) at Sooloo. Varioufly do thofe illands groan under the tyranny of their mailers. When I was here, one Jafrier had juft returned from the ifland Tappool, where he had been fettling petty infurreclions. Blood was certainly drawn from the men, and I faw fome prows arrive thence, with married women, unmarried women and children, all condemned to flavery. That day the talk was in town, " Datoo Jaflier is returned from conquering his enemies." No farther enquiry was made: for thofe Datoos in their oppreflions fupport one another. There There is a law both at Magindano and Sooloo, that no Chinefe can be made a Have, but, at either place, for a fum advanced by a Datoo, or great man, to a Chinefe, and fuch advances arc often forced upon them, they every twelve months are obliged to pay a very high inte-reft, perhaps twenty-five or thirty per cent.; the lender often refufing to receive back the principal at the end of the year, unlefs indeed the Chinefe make appear that he is going to return to his own country; in which cafe it is never refufed* This has already becnhinted. On this ifland, the nobles are extremely difTblute. Thofe who have more than one wife, which is not very common, keep each in a fepa-rate houfe ; but their diffoluienefs confifts in their numerous concur bines and intrigues: for here women have as much liberty in going abroad as in Europe. Malay women bathe-daily in rivers or in ponds.' On Sooloo and Magindano, the middle and lower ranks are lefs decent on thofe occafions, than the Malays farther weft; they go into the water almoft naked; whereas, the Malay women1 of Sumatra, Borneo, Celebes, and their adjacencies, wrap their bodies in a fort of wide bottomlefs fack, containing about two yards of broad cotton cloth, with the ends fewed together, like what in Bengal is a lungy. This fhrowds them from head to heel. The Sooloos have an annual cuftom of bathing in the fea, men and women together, but decently covered: which is alfo a Badjoo cuftom, as we fhall fee. At Sooloo, and the many iflands around, which form a great Archipelago, the pearl fifhery has been famous many a~ ges. ges.* This is the fource of their wealth, and lets them more at cafe than any Malays I ever knew, though their ifland does not generally produce fo much rice as they confume. They trade therefore to Magindano with Chinefe articles for that grain, and make great profit, as no China junks have for a long time gone thither. The pearl fiihery, minutely defcribed by Mr. Dalrymple, proves alfo to the Sooloos, the caufe of their confequence amongft their neighbours, as being a nurfery for feamen, ready to man a fleet of prows upon an emergency. The prefent Sultan Ifrael, to whom his father Amiralmoomine had given up the reigns of government, in 1773* hinted to me they have gold in their hills ; but that, for the above reafon, they difcourage the Tcarching after it. They have often had fea fights with the Borneans, and always beaten them. Their way of fighting is feldom in the open fea, but by furprife in harbours. The prows of the Sooloos are very neatly built, from fix to forty tons burden, fail well; and are all fitted with the tripod maft. They have alfo prows much fmaller, down to fampans; but their fampans are feldom of one tree, large timber not abounding on Sooloo, as on the more confiderable adjacent iilands. The Sooloo colours are the gates of Mecca, red, on a white ground. Their drudges, for the Teepye or pearl oyfter, are generally made of bamboo, very flight-, and funk with a ftone. The large pearls are the property of the Datoos, on whofe eftates they are found ; for thofe paramounts claim the property of the banks, as well as of the * In the fea between Mindano and Sooloo is a pearl fifhery, inferior to none in the Indies, cither in point of colour or fize. Harris's Vov. p. 685- dry TO NEW GUINEA. jtj dry land. There are rich Teepye banks on the north and eaft fide of rjJ7». i January. Tawee-Tawee. The Chinefe merchants, very fecret on thofe occa- —.—~> fions, contrive often to purchafe from the fimermen, pearls of great value; fo defrauding the Datoos, of what thefe pretend their property. Here are alfo many Badjoo fimermen, who bytheir long re-fidence, are become vaffals of the Datoos; but, as they were originally from another country, and fpeak, befide the Sooloo, a language of their own, their fuperiors are more tender of opprelling them, than their immediate vafTals on the iflands. The Sooloos have a particular way of fifhing with hook and line. They put into the boat a number of ftones, about a pound weight each; then wind their line with the baited hook round one of the ftones, and throw it overboard into deep water. The ftone defcends, and when the fiflicrman judges it has quitted the hook, he pulls this up to the furface, with or without a fifh. On the fame principle do they fifh amongft the Molucca iflands, by fixing the hook to the leaf of a coco nut tree, tied to a ftone, as has been related in the account of New Guinea. They alfo bruife a certain plant called tublee, which they then put either into the fea or frefh water; its juice ftupifies the fifh, which then floats dead atop: this is praclifed in all Malay countries. The Sooloo tongue has a good deal of the Bifayan or Philippine mixed with it; alfo a little of the Magindano dialect, and fome Malay words. The character is, with fome variation, the Arabic. The better fort fpeak Malay, and thofe who trade abroad, generally underftand it. While the Englifh were there in 1773, we converfed in Malay. U u Thc The arts are in greater forwardncfs here than at Magindano: the prows are built much neater. In the common market, is alfo a copper currency, a convenience much wanted at Magindano; where, as has been faid, the market currency is rice. The Sooloos have in their families many Bifayan, fome Spanifh flaves, whom they purchafe from the Illanon and Magindano cruifers. Sometimes they purchafe whole cargoes, which they carry to Paffir, on Borneo; where, if the females are handfome, they are bought up for the Batavia market. The mailers fometimes ufe their flaves cruelly, affirming the power of life and death over them. Many are put to death for trifling offences, and their bodies left above ground. An at> tempt of elopement is here feldom pardoned, or indeed at Magindano. Yet, the diflance being fo fmall from either Scolooor Selangan, to the Spanifh fettlement, I have wondered how any flay, as they are not clofely confined. The Bifayan flaves play often on the violin, and the Sooloos are fond of European mufic. I have feen th.e Sultan Ifrael, who was educated at Manilla, and his niece Potely Diamelen, dance a tolerable minuet. I have alfo feen the Datoos go down a country dance; but, as they wore heavy flippers, they did it clumfily. The Sooloos are not only neat in their cloaths, but drefs gaily. The men go generally in white waiftcoats, buttoned down to the wrifl; with white breeches, fometimes ftrait, fometimes wide. The ladies wear likewife a fine white waiflcoat, fitted clofe; which fhows the fhape j and their petticoat, which is worn over drawers, that reach the kne«, TO NEW GUINEA, , knee, comes but a little way below it. Both fexes are fond of 177*. Tanuirv. gamtng. J-v-i There are fome good harbours amongft the i/lands, that form the Sooloo archipelago ; particularly behind Bewa-bewa, weft, and near to Tawee-tawee, about the iflands Tappool, and Seaffee, alfo, between Boobooan, and Tapeantana, * fouth of Bafilan, in the ftrait that divides it from Sooloo. Several are alio behind the iflands, that almoft join the main ifland. However, before the town of Bewan, is no proper harbour.; but the road is good in the S. W. monfoon, as it is on the N, W. part of the ifland. In the N. E. monfoon, the wind at N. E. does not blow into it; but, it is open to the N. W, from which quarter, blows fometimes a gale at the fhifting of the monfoons, as in Atcheen road; which this road of Sooloo, in that refpecl, very much refembles. The high prieft, or Calipha at Sooloo, in 1773, was a Turk; he had travelled a good deal in Europe, and was a very intelligent man. I prefented him with a map of the world, which pleafed him mightily. He talked much to the Sooloos, his fcholars, for he kept a reading fchool, of the ftrength of Gibraltar. When he fpoke of Conftantino-ple, he called it Roma. The Buggeffes are a high fpirited people. We had at Sooloo many of them in our pay, whom we had inlifted at Paffir. One day, a Sooloo having ftole fomething from a Buggefs, I faw the Buggefs in full purfuit of him through the town, with a blunderbufs in his hand ; had he come up with the thief, the confequences might have been fatal. * Plate XVII. U 2 Some Some time after, when 1 had left Sooloo, I was told there had beer* a fray between the Sooloos, and our Buggeffes; and that the latter, though much inferior in number, being only forty, had drawn out with their blunderbuffes againfl the whole town. A Buggefs had been gaming with a Sooloo ; the latter lofing, faid he would pay him next day. The Buggefs accordingly meeting him in the pafTar or market, afked for his due, which the Sooloo re-fufmg, the Buggefs fnatched from him a handkerchief, and ran off. Immediately feveral Sooloos, with drawn creffes, purfued the Buggefs, who fled for protection to the Buggefs guard. A fentinel feeing his brother clofely purfued by armed men, fired amongft them, with his blunderbufs. Very luckily nobody was killed, but the General Almil-badar's nephew was hurt in the face, near the eye. Upon this a mob rofe: the Buggeffes turned out into the ftreet, and prefented their loaded arms; but, by the happy interpofition of Sultan Ifrael, and Potely Diamelen, the affair went no farther. Mr. Herbert, Mr. Alcock, and others, who were prefent, prevailed on the Buggeffes not to fire. Had one blunderbufs gone off amongft the croud, there would have been much bloodfhed, (for thefe arms are generally loaded with a number of piflol balls) as the Sooloos flood oppofite near them, with uplifted lances. Next day a handfome pecuniary fatisfaction was made by Mr. Herbert, to the General's nephew, who was flightly hurt, and the Buggeffes were immediately embarked for Balambangan. Much about this time, two Dutch ambaffidors arrived at Sooloo in a large ketch from Ternate: one of the gentlemen was Mynheer Shall. They told TO NEW GUINEA, told Mr. Herbert, not yet gone to Balambangan, that the Sooloos had invited them. Notwithftanding the Buggeffes are allowed in bravery to furpafs the-Sooloos, the latter have, on feveral occafions, behaved very well againfl the Spaniards. A body of Spaniards once attacking fome Sooloos, who did not much exceed them in number, the Sooloos knelt, and with their targets before them, received the fire of the enemy, then ruming with their lances, defeated them. The Sooloos are not-much accuftomed to the ufe of fire arms, but depend upon lance, fword, and dagger. The ftate of Sooloo is fmall, as has been faid, containing fcarce above 60,000 inhabitants ; yet are thefe very powerful, and have under them, not only mod of the iflands that compofe that archipelago, but great part of Borneo, fome of which they have granted to the Englifh.-They have the character of being treacherous, and of endeavouring always to fupply by fraud, what they cannot effeft by force. It has been related in the hiftory of Magindano, that the Sooloos killed their king Kuddy, when they pretended to mean him affiftance. According to Fakymolano's account, the fame piece of treachery was tranfacled at Borneo. Long had a deadly hate fubfifted, and ft ill fubfifts, between Sooloo and Borneo, the Borneans alledging the Sooloos had encroached on their territories. Ill 1776. Januarys About 334 A V O Y A G E 177s- About fifty years ago, a Bornean Pangaran was at war with the January, Eang de Patuan (fuch is (tiled the fovereign) of the place. -He had fortified himfelf on an illand called Pulo Chirming, at the mouth of the river Borneo, and called on the Sooloos to aiTift him. They came, but worfted by the Borneans, they feil upon the Pangaran and defeated him. They then plundered the ifland, and failed home. Not above twenty years after, the Sultan of Sooloo, Amiralmoomine, went to Samboangan on a vifit. He bought goods from Don Zacharias the governor, giving the Don his own price, made prefents to the officers of the garrifon, and loft his money to them, as if accidentally, by gaming with dice. Still refolved to ingratiate himfelf with the governor, the Sultan wanted to make him a prefent of forty male ilaves, whom he had dreft in rich liveries on the occafion. Many of them were natives of Papua, or New Guinea, Zacharias refufed the prefents, iiifpe&ing the Sultan of fome defign. The Sultan then afked leave to go to Manilla, He went thither, and faid to the archbifhop, " I will turn Chriftian, let the Spaniards take Sooloo, fend the ftub-" born Datoos to Samboangan ; make me king there, I then will " .oblige every one to embrace your religion." The Spaniards liftened to him, and he returned to Samboangan with an armada. Thence they went to Sooloo; and Bantillan, firft coufin to Amiralmoomine, was proclaimed Sultan. The Spaniards enhanced to be beaten, and the old Sultan Amiralmoomine returned with them to Samboangan. Here he defired to fend for his wife and children j which permiflion was readily granted. With the # the family came many of the Sooloos. On their landing, the governor r i ♦ January, round out by his fpies, that they had many concealed arms in their J prows which lay in the road oppofite the fort. He ordered the prows inftantly to be gone, made the Sultan and his family prifoners, and fent them to Manilla; whence the Sultan was releafed by the Englim*' arms-in the late war. The Spaniards were certainly in poffemon of the town of Bdwan^ before the year 1646; I have there feen ruins of fome of their mafonr)V Only feven years have elapfed fince the Sultan of Koran, where live the people of Tedong on the N. E. coaft of Borneo, was at war with> the Sultan of Booroo, on the fame coaft. One of them applied to the Sooloos for afTiftance. The Datoos Alamoodine, and Noquela went k and, watching their opportunity, attacked both the Sultans, plundered them, and carried them with their wives, children, and many of their head men to Sooloo. They were fome time after fent back, on condition that they, mould become tributary, and in a manner fubjed to Sooloo; which they are at this day. From this country the Sooloos" get moft of the fago, and many articles, which they fell to the Chinefe j fwallo, cowries, tortoimell, and the reft. They endeavour to preclude the Tedongers from trading with any but themfelves j for the Sooloos well underftand the benefits that arife from reftricting the trade of their conquefts or colonies : and the Datoos are all traders. Even the Sultan is a merchant. The four inftances already given, might fuffiee to afcertain the character of the Sooloos, which may however be properly crowned, by their 336 A VOYAGE »7f$ their conduct to the Englifh fettlemcnt at Balambangan in February January, ° " When John Herbert, Efq; went thither early in the preceding year, lie found great want of buildings, to accommodate the Company's fervants, civil and military; thofe gentlemen who had juft been faved from the fhipwreck of the Royal captain on the fhoals of Paragoa, as well as the crew of that (hip. About this time one Teting, a Sooloo Datoo, and firft coufin to Sultan Ifrael, came with many of his vaiTals to Balambangan, offered his fervice as a builder, was employed by Mr. Herbert, and, in the whole of his behaviour, gave fa-lisfa&ion. The Datoo, falling fick, went home to Sooloo for the recovery of his health. This blerling foon obtaiued, he returned to the profecution of his talk at Balambangan. He now brought from the Sultan and Council letters recommending him as a truft-worthy perfon, to erect whatever warehoufes or buildings might be wanted. With him came two other Datoos, Mulloc and Noquela. But Datoo Teting took care to fhow only part of his numerous followers, concealing the reft in the ifland of Banguey, and even in fome recefTes of Balambangan ; which, being covered with wood, as thofe iflands generally are, there was no great fear of difcovery. Surmifes, however, had fome days begun to fpread reports of a plot, while Teting proceeded with fuch addrefs, that the chief and council, who were not without their fufpicions, apprehended no danger very nigh. During During the night, ftri& watch was kept all over the fettlement. At dawn, the gun, as ufual, announced the morning ; and for a few moments, tranquillity reigned. A houfe at fome fmall diftance fuddenly fired, proved the fignal to the Sooloos. They rufhed into the fort, killed the fen tries, and turned the guns againft the Buggefs guard. The few fettlers, lately rendered fewer by death, were fain to make their efcape in what veifels they could find. As the true cinnamon is faid to grow both on Sooloo and Mindano,* the following account of that which grows on Ceylon, will not be unpleafing here. • Cinnamon they have as good as any in Ceylon; but nobody having any property in the trees, they tear and deftroy the bark at all feafons, which is the reafon the world h fo Httlc acquainted with the cinnamon of Mindano. Harris's Voyage, Vol, I, p. 68jf CHAP- a voyage CHAPTER XV. An Account of the Cinnamon Tree in Ceylon, and its feveral Sorts, communicated by the chief Infpeftor of the Cinnamon Trade, and Manu- . fafturer in that IJland, to Albertus Seba, a noted Druggifl at Amfter-dam. Tranjlated by the late Dr. Scheucher, F. R. S. 1776. " / I ^HE iirft and bell fort of cinnamon, which grows in great plen-v _f tyin Ceylon, and is peculiar to that illand, is called by the natives, rajfe coronde, which is as much as to fay fharp, fweet cinnamon. It is this choice fort which is exported yearly by the Dutch Eafl India Company, by whom it has been prohibited under fevere penalties, that any other fort whatever fhould be mixt with it. w The fecond fort is called canatte coronde, that is, bitter and aftrm-gent cinnamon \ for the Ceylonefe, in their language, call cinnamon in general coronde and canatte fignifies bitter and aftringent. The bark of this tree comes off very eafily, and fmells very agreeably, when frefh ; but has a bitter tafte. It is an advantage to us that this docs not grow in great plenty hereabouts; becaufe, elfe, one might eafily mi (take it for a better j as indeed, in general, it requires a good deal of fkili and attention fo to diflinguifh the cinnamon trees from each other, as not to choofe now and then an inferior fort for the belt. The root of this fecond tree yields a very good camphire. " The " The third fort is called by the Ceylonefe, capp:roc coronde, which is as much as to fay, camphorated cinnamon, becaufe it has a very ftrong fmell and tafte of camphire. It grows plentifully enough on the ifland, but not in the eaftern parts of it. However, they find means, now and then, to fend it over privately and fell it to the Danes and Englifh, who come to trade upon the coafl: of Coromandel; for, as lo^g as there is one port in the ifland left open, abundance of this fort of bad merchandife may be exported. Befides, there is a fort of a canella, growing upon the continent of India, about Goa, which is very like this fpecies of cinnamon tree, though it has nothing of the true cinnamon. The fame fort of canella agrees in many refpecls with the canella Malabarka fylvejlris, a wild cinnamon tree, growing upon the coafl of Malabar. And although, with regard to the fhape of the tree, and the outward appearance of the bark and leaves, there is very little difference to be obferved between thefe two forts of canella, and the above-mentioned firft. and good fort of cinnamon, yet the latter is vaflly fuperior in richnefs, fweetnefs, and virtue. " The fourth fort of cinnamon is called by the Ceylonefe, welk coronde, that is, the fandy cinnamon ; becaufe, upon chewing it, one feels, as it were, bits of fand between the teeth ; though, in fa&, there is nothing fandy in it. The bark of this tree comes off eafily enough j but is not fo eafily rolled up into a fibular form as other forts of cinnamon are, being apt to burn: open and unfold itfelf. It is of a (harp and bitterifh talk, and the root of it yields but a fmall quan-tity of camphire. X X 2 * The " The fifth fort is called Jewel coronde. Sew el, in the Ceylonefe language, figniries mucilaginous, or glutinous. This cinnamon acquires a very confiderable degree of hardnefs, which the chewing of it fufHciently proves. It has otherwife little tafte, and ungrateful fmell; but the colour of it is very fine; and it is not many years fince I firft took notice, that the natives, who are all blacks, mix a good deal of this mucilaginous cinnamon with the firft and beft fort, the colour being much alike, excepting only, that in the good fort fome few yellowifh fpots appear towards the extremities. u The fixth fort is called by the natives, nicke coronde, the tree which bears it having a good deal of refemblance to another tree, which is by them called nicke gas, and the fruit it bears, nicke. The bark of this fort of cinnamon tree has no manner of tafte or fmell, when taken off, and is made ufe of by the natives only in phyfic. By roaft-ing it, they obtain a water and oil, with which they anoint themfelves, thinking, by fuch liniment, to keep off all noxious fumes and infections in the air. They likewife extract: a juice from the leaves, which they fay cools and ftrengthens the brain, if the head be rubbed with it. " The feventh fort is called dawel coronde, that is, drum cinnamon ; in Low Dutch, trommel cancel. The reafon of this appellation is, that the wood of this tree, when grown hard, is light and tough ; and that fort, of which the natives make fome of their vefTels and drums, which they call dawel, is ftript of its bark, while the tree is yet growing, and is of a pale colour. The natives ufe it in the fame manner with the fixth fort. The " The eight fort is called catte coronde; Catte, in the Ceylonefe language, fignifying a thorrr or prickle; for this tree is very prickly. The bark is fomewhat like cinnamon, but the leaves differ very much ; and the bark itfelf has nothing either of the tafte or fmell of cinnamon. The natives ufe the root, bark and leaves of this tree in me-dicine, applying them in form of cataplafms to tumours and fwel-lings from corrupt blood, which they fay it cures in a fhort time* ** The ninth fort is-called mael coronde, or the flowering cinnamon;? becaufe this tree is always in bloffom. The flowers come neareft to thofe of the firft and belt fort, called rajje coronde; but they: bear no fruit, which the other does. The fubftancc of the wood never becomes fo folid and weighty in this, as in the other' cinnamon trees' above mentioned, which have fometimes eight, nine, or ten foot irt circumference. If this everflowering cinnamon tree be cut or bored,1 a limpid water will iflue out of the wound, as it does out of the European birch treebut it is of ufe only for the leaves and bark. " The inhabitants of Ceylon fay there is yet another fort of cinnamon, which they ca\l toupat coronde, or the three leaf cinnamon. It does not grow in that part of the country which the Dutch Eaft India Company is poflefTed of, but higher up towards Candid. Having never feen it my felf, I will out of regard to truth fay nothing farther of it. " And thus, Sir, I have given you, I hope, a fatisfactory account of the feveral forts of cinnamon trees growing in this country. lean affure you that you are the firft to whom I ever communicated fo particular a defcription; for, having been almoft thefe fifteen years employed 1776* ployed as chief infpector of the cinnamon trade and manufacture here, January e * I have with much paius and attention, fo ftrictly enquired into this matter, that at laft I found out all the forts of bad cinnamon, which were formerly mixed with the true and good; and have been able to .fhow famples of the bark, root, and leaves of every one of them, to our Directors; who, to prove their fatisfaction that a thing of fuch confequence was, after many laborious fearches, at laft difcovered, iind thinking it well worth a farther enquiry, were pleafed to augment the falary annexed to this office. *' It remains, that I fhould inform you in how many years the cinnamon trees grow ripe enough to have the bark ftript off. Here I (hall confine myfelf to the firft and beft fort, which is yearly exported by the Company.; and what I fhall mention of it, may ferve to anfwer in fome meafurc fuch queries as might be made about the reft. ** All the forts of cinnamon trees, the beft as well as the inferior, muft grow a certain number of years, before the bark be fit for taking off: with this difference however, that fome of the trees of the fame fort, for inflance of the beft, will ripen two or three years fooner than others; which is owing to the difference of the foil they grow in. Thofe which grow in valleys, where the ground is a fine whitifh fand (and many are fuch valleys in the ifland of Ceylon) will in five years be fit to have the bark taken off; others, on the contrary, which ftand in a wet flimy foil, muft have feven or eight years to grow, before they be ripe enough for that purpofe. Again, thofe trees are later, that grow in the (hade of larger trees, by which the fun is kept from their roots: and hence it is, that the bark of fuch trees has not that fweetnefr, fwcctnefs, or agreeable tafte, obfervable in the bark of thofe trees »776* January which grow in a white fandy ground, where, with little wet, they ftand full expofed to the fun; but proves of a bitterifti tafte, fomewhat aftringent, and fmells like camphire. " For, by the heat of the fun's rays, the camphire is made fo thin and volatile, that it rifes, and mingles with the juices of the tree, where it undergoes a fmall fermentation ; and then rifing ftill higher, between the fubltance of the wood and the fine inner membrane of the bark, it is at laft fo effectually diffufed through the branches and leaves, that there is not the leaft trace of it to be perceived. Meanwhile, that thin and glutinous membrane, which lines the bark between it and the fubftance of the wood, attracts, and fucks in all the pureft, fweeteft, and moft agreeable particles of the juice; leaving the thick and grofs ones, which are pufhed forward, and ferve to nourim, the branches, leaves, and fruit. " What I here mention, is conformable to my own obfervation j and I have often had occafion to demonftrate this fact to the curious, If the bark be frefh taken oft", that juice which remains in the tree, has a bitterifh tafte, not unlike that of cloves. On the contrary, if you tafte the inner membrane of the bark, when frefh taken off, you will find it of a moft exquifite fweetnefs, and extremely pleafant to the tafte; whereas the outward part of the bark differs but very little in • tafte from that of the common trees; which (hows plainly, that its whole fweetnefs is owing to the inner membrane. But, when the bark is laid in the fun to be dried and wound up, that oily and plcafmg fweetnefs of the inner membrane, communicates and diffufes itfelf through the whole j17?6ry whole outward-part of it, (firft 'ftrippcd, however, while yet upon the -^ tree, of its outer greenilh coat) and imbues it fo ftrongly, as to make the bark a commodity, which, for fragrance and fweetnefs, is coveted all over the earth. ** It may not be amifs to take notice alfo, how many years the cinnamon trees, when come to maturity, will continue in that ftate, fo that the bark, when taken off, ftiall have loft nothing of its fweetnefs and virtue. And, to clear up this point, it muft be obferved, that the bark may yet be taken from the trees, which have ftood fourteen, fifteen, or lixteen years, according to the quality of the foil they ftand in ; but, beyond that time, they grow thicker, and lofe, by degrees, their tafte and agreeable fweetnefs, while the bark contracts the tafte of camphire : befides, the bark is then grown fo thick, that, though laid in the fun, it will no longer fhrink and wind itfelf up, but remain flat. And here it may be thought a fit fubje<5t of enquiry, how it comes to pafs, that, confidering what vaft quantities of cinnamon have been exported from this ifland, and fold all over the world, by Europeans as well as natives, for two hundred years paft ; and fince the way hither, by the Eaft Indies, has been but fome centuries explored by the Portuguefe, (long before was it difcovered and known); I fay, how, confidering this, it comes to pafs, that there are 0.111 fuch numbers of good trees fit to be barked, and growing yearly, on the ifland. To folve this queftion, feveral authors, defcribing the ifland of Ceylon, have committed a confiderable miftake, when they allure their readers, that, when the bark has been ftript off the trees, it grows again in four or or five years, and becomes fit for dripping anew. I can affure you, Sir, that this aflertion is equally contrary to the courfe of nature, and the pofhbllity of obfervation. Nor do I believe, that there is, in any part of the world, a tree, which, if entirely ftript of its bark, could grow, or even vegetate longer. That part, at leaft, where the bark has been taken off, will quickly parch, and die away; but the root may meantime remain entire, and in good condition ; which fhows, why fuch a number of trees is ready to be barked every year. For, although the cinnamon tree, after the bark has been once taken off, is cut down to the very root, as arc in Europe oaks, birches, alders, and willows ; yet, the root will quickly pufti forth new flioots, which will ripen in a fhort time ; I mean, in five, fix, feven, or eight years, fome fooner, fome later, and then yield their quantity of bark. Hence it appears, how far the old roots are inftrumental to the growth and plenty of cinnamon trees; but the fruit which falls from the trees, contributes much towards the fame end : and it is particularly owing to a certain kind of wild doves, which, from their feeding on the fruit of the cinnamon tree, are called cinnamon eaters, that the tree grows fo plentifully in this ifland. For the doves, when they fetch food for their young, Hying here and there, difperfe vaff quantities of the fruit all over the fields; which occafions the rife of fo many thoufand young trees, along the roads, that they look like a foreft. So plentifully grows here this excellent tree : I call it excellent, becaufe indeed, I know of none preferable. I need not point out to you what remarkable operations of divine providence the hiftory of the cinnamon tree affords to an attentive eye. Y y n Hardly 1776. <* Hardly is any thins: fo univerfally grateful, and efteemed by all na-^— -y-j tions, as true cinnamon. The oil drawn from it by fire, is reckoned one of the ftrongeft cordial medicines: the camphire which comes out of the root, is likewife of.great ufe in feveral diftempers; as is alfo the oil of camphire, a very coflly thing, dittilled from the leaves of the-tree; and laftly, the fruits with their oil. In fhort there is no part of the cinnamon tree that is not of fome ufe in phyfic. I purpofely avoid fpeaking of the large gains the Company makes by the yearly export of this precious commodity." Additions to the foregoing Account, by Albert us Seba, P. R. S. ** Having fome years ago, bought out of the Eaft India Company's warehoufes at Amfterdam, a confiderable quantity of cinnamon leaves, or folia tnalabatbri, packed up in large chefts, I happened to find in one of them, the flowers of the cinnamon, as big as the Italian bean flowers, and of a blue colour. I chanced likewife to meet with the fruit; but could not find any in the other chefts. " In 1722, and 1723, I bought of the fame company, the oil which is expreffed from the fruit of the cinnamon tree; as alfo that which is boiled out of it, which is of a very good confiftence, and white, and is by the Eaft India Company called cinnamon wax: for the king of Candia caufes candles to be made of it, which, for their agreeable fcent, are burnt only by himfelf, and at his court. However, he permits his fubjec'ts to exprefs the juice of another fruit, not unlike the fruit of the cinnamon. But this juice, being only a thin fat fub- ftance, fiance, like the oil of olives, cannot be otherwifc burned than in lamps. u The Indians ufe this cinnamon wax in phyfic, and give it in luxations, fractures, falls, and contufions; that in cafe any inward part be touched, it may by its balfam heal them. They give it alfo in bloody fluxes, to one dram, or a dram and a half. Outwardly applied, it makes the fkin more beautiful, fofter, and fmoother than any known pomade. " The leaves of the cinnamon tree yield a bitterifh oil, refembling the oil of cloves, mixed with a little good oil of cinnamon : it is called oleum malabtithri, or oil of cinnamon leaves. This is an aromatic, and reckoned an excellent remedy in head akes, pains of the ftomach, and-other diftempers. " The oil of the root of the cinnamon tree; is properly an oil of camphire : for of this the roots afford a good quantity. About two years, or fomewhat more, ago, I bought a bottle of our Eaft India Company, at my own price. Several bottles were together in a box, on which was wrote in low Dutch, defe oUteyten fyn tot fen Gefchenk nyt candia gefebikt : that is, thefe oils were fent as a prefent out of Candia : which fhows that they are without adulteration, nor can they bj but much efteem-ed. If this oil be diftilled in glafs vefTels, there diffufes with it that fort of camphire, which the Indians call camphire Baros, or camphire of Borneo; which fhoots in thin tranfparent cryftals, forming, on \X\z recipient, a beautiful variety of trees, not unlike thofe which in very Y y 2 froily 1776-' froily weather are to be feen on windows. This fort of camphire, of Jinuary. r ■ —J great efficacy in phyfic, is gathered and kept for the king of Candia's own ufe, who efteems it an excellent cordial. Not only the camphire Baros, but the oil of camphire, drawn from the roots of the cinnamon tree, is a cordial, if taken inwardly ; it ftrengthens the ftomach, expels wind, and has been found of great fervice in arthritic or gouty diforders. It is alfo a diuretic: the dofe ten or twelve drops, upon a a bit of fugar, or in a proper vehicle. Outwardly, it is applied in all arthritic pains from cold and obftructions: rubbed on the affected part with a warm hand, it will prefently leflen the pain, and by degrees take it off. It is now about fix and thirty years fince I ferved in the fhop of Nicholas DumbftdorfTi at Amfterdam. That gentleman was then fo afflicted with arthritic pains, that he could reft neither night nor day. Though he called in the ailiftance of feveral noted phyficians, and tried abundance of medicines, he could find no relief, till advifed to caufe himfelf to be anointed with the oil of the root of the cinnamon tree, of which he then happened to have a good quantity. I remember very well, that I anointed him myfelf, rubbing the oil on all the affected pails, with my hand warmed by holding it to an oven. This I did twice a -day, for an hour together; and, though when this cure was begun with him, his hands and feet were by convulfions, and the violence of the pain, fo contracted, that they grew quite crooked and full of nodes; yet in a fortnight's* time he became fo much better, that he could fleep well anights, feeling neither pains nor cramps. In fix weeks he could walk about his room; whereas, before the anointing, he was not able to ftir either hand or foot. This unction had proceeded three months, when the patient fo recovered TO NfeW GUINEA. 17 A vered his indifpofition, that he continued free from gout ever after, and lived fifteen years in good health. Nor this alone do I affirm from my u"""^ own certain knowledge : I have fince advifed feveral in his condition to do the like, and with as good fuccefs. Phyficians have wrote largely on the virtues of common camphire: but many are ftill the hidden qualities in this efficacious medicine." CHAP- m A V O Y A G E £,rtc 137" *uog rtii'Ti a^it oaoniincj ). i: tnoinl i'« I I 4 N • h' u.'->—^ yrti fROil mi&js I qh saofc nidi 10H .rhh^d bong ni aiBoy nrjftn1 b»vi£ CHAPTER XVI. <.:■;':>,j;rf ~-dj ifin sub vr.sm fuel : i»iirif|(nc3 nommoo to &joiht u ) no &*/7 /d?r Kamaladan Harbour—See fome Sooloo Prows—Meet with Tuan Hadjee in the Banguey Corocoro—Pafs the IJland Lutangan—Harbour of Boobooan—Obliged to anchor on the Coaft of Sooloo—Pafs within Libe-ran Ifland, on the Coaft of Borneo—Directions for that Paffage—Pafs Balambangan—Arrive in Pelampan Harbour, behind Pulo Gaya— Meet fome Engli/lj Veffels—Proceed to Abia, in quefl of the Mindano Officers, by whom I write to Rajah Moodo—Gale at N. E.—Haul the Vefjel sifhore—Depart thence, and arrive at the Englifi Faclory on Borneo. /^VN the night of Monday the 8th of January, as has been faid, I got ovcr tne Dar °f tne Pelangy* accompanied by two of Rajah Moodo's foldiers. We then fteered to the fouth of Bunwoot, loaded our arms, and got every thing in readinefs, for fear of being way-laid by the Sooloos. Next day we pulled down our attop covering, and threw it over board. At 4 P. M. the fouth end of Bunwoot bore S. E. five leagues: it was then fhut in with Timoko hill. * About noon I fpoke with a prow from Sooloo : fhe belonged to Rajah Moodo, and was bound to Selangan. On the 10th, had moft of the night a very frefh wind out of the Illano bay, which was now open. At fun rife, could fee Lutangan ifland, with a gentle rifing on it, bearing N. W. fix leagues, while Baganean • Plate XXI. point 1776. Iinuary, W--1-J point bore N. E. half E. Baganean point was then in one with a Jar. m ry. Sugar Loaf hill a good way up the country. At funfet, Lutangan bore 1--r-—* W, half N. Stood to the northward, for Kamaladan harbour, near which Rajah Moodo had directed me to lay in rice, for our provifion, at a village called Se Tappo, where Datoo Aflim his relation lived. Variable winds during moll part of the i ith. We had anchored at two A. M. in fix fathom land and mud, within two miles of a low point, which lies to the northward of Pulo Lutangan. To the eafl-ward of this low point flretches a reef of coral rocks, about three miles with two and three fathom upon it. About noon weighed and worked up the harbour, wind at N. E. At one P. M, came in fight, between Lutangan and the main, four prows, with no colours hoifled : when we flood towards them, they failed and rowed from us. We then put about, upon which one of the fmalleit flood after and fpoke to us. They were Sooloo prows, and feemed to be working into the harbour of Kamaladan : I afked the mafler of the fmall prow that fpoke to us, why the others ran away, and why they mowed no colours; to which he made an evafive anfwer, not caring perhaps to own they were afraid. Kept working into the bay that lies before the harbour of Kamaladan,* with a flood tide, by which we gained ground. On the 12th, at three in the morning, anchored in five fathom, fandy ground, in a fmall bay on the N. E. fide of the large bay mentioned yeflerday; weighed when the flood made, and at day light perceived the Sooloo prows mentioned yeflerday, bearing away towards Mindano. * Plate XXI. - Kept Kept working into Kamaladan harbour; at ten before noon faw a corocoro near us. Sent Ifhmael the Jerrybatoo in the boat on board. He found her to be the Banguey corocoro with Tuan Hadjee, and Tuan Bobo, one of the Batchian. officers: they faid they were bound to Samboangan. Ifhmael took the opportunity of afking Tuan Hadjee for the value of a Have, which the latter fomeiime had owed him. Tuan Hadjee replied, he would foon be with the Englifh at Borneo, and there would fettle the debt. Jerrybatoo told me, that Tuan Hadjee would hardly believe I had been able to get the veflel decked and made into a fchooner. At three in the afternoon, I anchored before the village called Se Tappo, where ftands Datoo Afiim's houfe. The Datoo was gone fomewhither into the Illano bay. L could not get rice as I expected, none being ready j but I got fome fago in its ftead. Here were lying three Sooloo prows. From them I purchafed fome coco nuts and rough rice. They behaved civilly, as in a neutral port; any where elfe I fhould not have chofen to be a night with them in the fame harbour. Kamaladan harbour was defcribed in the account of Magindano* On Saturday the 13th, Weighed and worked out with the ebb tide. At four P. M. anchored in a fmall bay on the weft fide of this fp^cioua harbour in five fathom, muddy ground. Found abunuance of oifters on the fmooth large ftones, with which the points of the fmall bays are lined. About funfet we weighed and ftocu out of the harbour, I was then informed by the people I had lent afhore in the afternoon, to cut wood, that they had been at the homes of fome Haraforas, who kept hogs in pens, under their houfes, I regretted I had not gone afhore and feen the oddity; as I had obferved the Harafora* at Tubuan and TO NEW GUINEA, and Leno harbour, do not breed hogs, being perhaps forbid, though they kill and eat wild hogs. Standing out of the harbour on Sunday the 14th, we paffed a clutter of four or five fmall iflands to the weftward : fome of them bufhy iflands, fome low and flat, with trees, having regular foundings, from feven to twenty-eight fathom muddy ground. At night, being about three miles off the S. E. point of Lutangan, we had irregular foundings, feven, eight, and ten fathom, fandy ground, and coral rocks. At noon we were in the latitude of 70 9' N. the fouth point of Bafilan, which makes like a Chinaman's hat, bearing S. W. by S. eight or nine leagues. At fun-fet, Bafilan bore from W. S. W. to N. W. by N. the neareft part being then about three leagues diftant. Saw a low point on the fouth part of Bafilan. In the night of the 15th, we paffed the low point mentioned yefter-day; it is part of a fmall low illand: we had thirteen fathom fand, within a mile of it. Stood on fleering W. S. W. and entered a found formed by three iflands with hummocs on them, and feveral low fmall ifland?. The found lies about feven miles fouth of Bafilan, and is formed by the iflands named Boobooan, Tapeantana and Lanawan, * in Mr. Dalrymple's map. The wind coming to the N. W. worked almoft through the found, which has fmooth water, and would hold a number of fhips, in ten and twelve fathom depth, fundy ground. The tide turning, we ran back, and at funfet defcried Tonkyl, a low * Plate XVII. 2 z ifland, >77*« ifland, where we had ftopt at the beginning of the vcsyagc. The eaft January * **mJ end of Tonkyl ftretches to the eaftward of Belawn, an illand with a hummoc; we alfo faw Duo Blod, bearing W. by N. about fix leagues. Tuefday the 16th. Moft of the night the wind was at N. W. which I did not expect in the middle of the N. E. monfoon : this caufed a> chopping fea. Made feveral trips near the Sugar Loaf iflands, called Deppoolool, the tide favouring us. In the morning, the wind eaflerly brought fine weather; it then came again to the W. N. W. Worked through between Tata ran and Deppoolool, where the tide fets very ftrong. Paft Batoo Mandee (Waflied Rock) which is no bigger than a, boat; found eight and ten fathom depth of water, about a mile N. W. of it. The hills of Sooloo bore now W. S. W. many fmall prows fteering by us N. E. Having twice paft this channel, between Dep-poopool and Tataran, I obferved in the N. E. monfoon, the tide fet ftrong to the weftward, and on the contrary* On Wednefday the 17th, in the morning, the wind was fo fcant, that we could not weather Sooloo. Therefore, we came to under the illand Bankoongan, which forms a good harbour. We anchored in feven fathom fandy ground, within piftol (hot of the ifland, and one mile and a half from the main land of Sooloo. I fent afhore to the illand, and gave a fifherman to underftand, that the veffel belonged to Magindano, being not without my apprehenfions of falling into the hands of the Sooloos. At fix P. M. failed to get round by the eaft end of Sooloo. At eight faw a great fire on the more. All night I was very uneafy, being upon an enemy's lee fhore. Had I fallen into into their hands, they would certainly have kept mc a long time amongft them, being jealous of my reception at Mindano. On the 18th, early in the morning, pa fled to the eaftward of Sooloo with a frefh gale. Saw feveral fmall boats fifhing for pearls to leeward of the ifland, where was no fwell; but, the wind blowing in fudden fqualls off the ifland, the men were continually wet with the fpray. Could not weather Tappool. At fun-fet, came to near the S, end of the ifland Pong Pong, which lies S. W. of Tappool in twelve fathom. There are feveral fhoals to the fouthward and near Tappool. Here the tides run regular. Tappool abounds in cattle and coco nuts. At day-light of the 19th, fent the boat to Pong Pong for frefh water: (he returned at noon with all the jars full. Weighed, and lay up W. N. W. At fun-fet, the weft end of Sooloo bore N. E. by N. ten leagues : faw two low iflands ahead. On Saturday the 20th, wind at N. N. E. By day light, anchored in eleven fathom fand, clofe to a low fandy ifland : fent thither fome hands, who picked up many ktmas of about eight or nine pound each. The illand is called Dafaan. Where we lay at anchor, Ta-vitavi bore from S. W. to S. Seaffee S. E. and Tappool E. S. E. At eight in the morning, weighed, and flood to the fouthward of many low little iflets. At four P. M. we perceived low land bearing from N. to N. E. which I take to be the iflands called Tajo, or the banks fo called, where many pearls are got. At fun-fet, faw another low ifland bearing N. W. At noon, a large prow flood athwart us, fleering S. W. Got all ready to receive her, fufpecling her a Mangaio. Z z 2 On 356 A V O Y A G E N. About midnight, had a ftrong rippling of a current. At funfet, could fee the double hummocs of Taganak bearing N. N. W. and Baguan N. W. half N. about four leagues diftant: fine weather, and tolerably fmooth water. In palling by Sandakan harbour, the ifland Bahalatolis is very remarkable : bearing S. it appears a flipper; bearing S. W. a double flipper. Monday the 22d. At midnight paffed to the northward of Baguan about two miles. In the morning, could difcern the ifland of Liberan and many fmall ones without it. About noon, difcovered a fmall ifland bearing N. W. by N. in the figure of a jockey cap. A dry fand bears from it S. S. W. about two miles. Stood to the fouthward of them both in twenty-three, twenty, nineteen, and twelve fathom, muddy ground.* I have, hitherto from Bafilan, taken names of iflands from Mr. Dalrymple's map, which I have found very exact, and which gives the foundings without Liberan but, as I have gone twice in a fmall veflel along the N. E. coaft of Borneo within Liberan, and each time the fame track, it may not be amifs to hint fomething about it, in cafe fhips fhould be obliged to purfue it, from circumftances precluding the other track without Liberan, where the foundings are laid down, and which, doubtlefs, is the preferable. * During the N. E. monfoon, the wind blows direct on this coaft ; but, being checked by the land, its force is never great, and the weather is generally fair, a land wind fometimes prevails at night, but reaches only a little way. In In paiTing to the fouthward of Liberan,* keep pretty clofe to the ifland. There are faid to be fome deer, which, on being hunted with dogs, immediately take to the water, and are then eafily killed. I would advife no one to venture after dark into the inner channel : the outer may be navigated with much lefs danger. If at anchor, the boat may not improperly be fent afhore to the main oppofite the illand. At low water fpring tides, many fine large oiflers may be found in the mud \ but, if the time is not nicely hit, none can be had. From Liberan to Soogoot river's mouth and point (for a long fpit runs off it) you crofs the bay of Labook in four, five, fix, and eight fathom muddy ground. In the middle of this bay, I once found by night a fmall fpot of coral rocks. Though my commoodies touched upon it, I could not, by reafon of the darknefs, get its exact fituation ; but, before and after, wc had five fathom. Here, the flood tide fets S. W. into the bay of Labook, about three knots and a half on the fprings. Liberan lies in the latitude of 6° 2'N. longitude 116° 08' E. In crofTing this bay with a N. W. by N. courfe from the ifland of Liberan, you will foon perceive, at Soogoot river's mouth, fome fhaggy pines, looking as trees generally do at rivers mouths in Malay countries, that is, like hedge rows, and fomewhat disjoined from the land. Steer without them for a flat ifland, very like Liberan: I call it Cheefe Ifland, from its fhape : it lies north half eafl feven miles from Soogoot point. Steer pretty clofe, but to its fouthward : many fmaller iflands and reefs of rocks are without and near it. Two fmall iflcts bear S. s. W. and S. W. of it, about a mile and half diftant. The more eaftern is a little Ihrubby ifland the other, about one mile far- • Plate XXIV, ther ther W. S. W. I call Tufty ifland, as bearing a tuft of trees. Leave them to. the fouthward, and .keep in ..fix and feven fathom muddy ground. You will then fee above water a fmall fand, on either fide of which you may pafs. It lies about nine miles N. W. by W. from ■Cheefe ifland. You then come to Ragged ifland, eight miles eaft of the eaft point of Semaddal ifland. This Ragged ifland has fome fhort ftunted trees upon it, and many fhoals near and within it. Here anchor may be eaft, to examine the pafTage, which has fix or feven fathom water, muddy ground : the fhoals are generally bold, and of coral rocks. S. W. of Ragged ifland is a very fhaggy point upon the main. Having paiTed Ragged ifland, you fteer N. W. in five, fix, and feven fathom water, muddy ground, for Pine-Tree ifland, which has a fine white beach. Prom it One-Tree ifland bears W. by N. You jmay fteer between them in ten fathom. From Pine-Tree ifland the courfe is N. N. W. and N. W. by N. to an ifland that has a reef extending far off its eaft end: it is fituate eight miles due fouth of the eaft part of Malwatty : I call it Bird ifland, many birds rootling there in the night. Its weft end is bold. If a fhip takes day light, as the water is generally fmooth, fhe may with great fafety go this laft-mentioned part of the track, as the fhoals are all bold, and fhow at a diflance; cfpecially if the weather be clear. There is another tra:k from Pine ifland towards Bird ifland : fleering from Pine ifland weft, and leaving One-Tree ifland on the right hand, you will then keep in a nine fathom channel all the way to Bird ifland, without palling any fhoals, or fpots of rocks, but one, which is not far from One-Tree ifland. Between Shaggy point and Semaddal ifland, but nearer the ifland, is a channel with four fathom water. Up this channel the tide runs three and four knots. N. W. N. W. from Bird ifland, about five miles, are four or five freeflcne rocks, like the ruins of a building, about twenty foot high. Leave them to the fouthward, and a fpot of fand within a mile of them, to the eaftward. In the channel is nine and ten fathom. You may then fteer for Malwally, on which are two harbours, one on the S. W„ the other on the S. E. fide of it. The latter is perfectly good, but has a narrow entrance. Malwally lies in latitude f o' N. Jon. 1150 20 E. On Saturday the 27th, we pafled a ftioal bearing E. by S. from Ma-leangan, five miles from the fliore of Banguey, and five from that of Borneo the hummoc on Banguey bearing N. N. W. We then flood on between Banguey and Maleangan. The beft channel is clofe to Maleangan, a fhoal lying about half a mile from it. At ten, anchored between Banguey and Balambangan. Sent the boat afhore for intelligence. She returned in two hours, having found no inhabitant, but devaluation. We then weighed, and flood for Borneo. In the morning of Sunday the 28th, could fee Matanany bearing S. S. W. had a great fwell and much rain. At fun-fet, Kaitan point* bore S. S. W. and Pulo Gaya S. W. by S. at the diftance of eight leagues. Monday the 29th. In the morning fleered in behind Pulo Pangir, and then proceeded to a harbour near Pulo Gaya, behind an illand called Pelampan, no bigger than an ordinary houfe. Hither from Pulo Gaya leads a reef, covered at high water, and dry at low, in * Plate XXV? length length about two hundred yards : it bears fouth of Pulo Pangir and Kaitan point. In this harbour, the paffage between Pulo Gaya and the main is plainly to be perceived. It is full of rocks j but between them is faid to be a paffage clofe to Borneo. Beyond this ftrait is Patatan river. Here I learned that the Mindano prow, difpatched by by the Sultan and Rajah Moodo to Mr. Herbert, was at Tawarran on her return. On this intelligence, I weighed and ran up to Gemcl point, to the northward of Kaitan point. Difpatched three men to Tawarran over land, to fetch my letters. Felt here a great ground fwell, in two and a half fathom water; upon which I weighed and flood out, and found the cable almoft broken. Tuefday the 30th. Lay to the greater part of the night, unwilling to pafs Pulo Gaya. At day light, made fail for the harbour behind Pelampan, where we had lain before. Anchored in feven fathom fand and mud, clofe to the fhore. in the evening my people returned without any tidings of the Mindano officers. Next morning I went afhore to Oran Caio Mahomed, the head man of the village Inanan, diftant about fix miles by fea, and two miles up a river from where we lay. He received me civilly, and told me that Mr. Herbert, the late chief of Balambangan, paffing that way to Borneo, and being in diftrefs for money, had demanded of him, and been paid, a debt of four hundred and eighty dollars. The money was due to me for a cheft cf opium I had fold to the headman about twelve months before. He prefented me with fome rice, fruits, and other refreshments. Oran Caio Mahomed alfo informed me, that a new chief had fuperfeded Mr. Herbert at Borneo, and that the Mindano officers were at Abia on their return. That evening, I fent one of the two foldiers Rajah Moodo had appointed J2A2r&t7j0Y~ J 0 It.,/**,,},} 7 + 6o/ 2tf alw 'ally ^ *2E?£'V ' v'"'/ *4 o p £)Hi£h I y?#y/*'"Nca-tli Eafl CdAST 13 O R N E O fixam LlBEMAW to 4 .v^; /ry/ y ,l///,/',i'W J 6% * 4 J)ry Sand P A OF O R N 7 oeWs<-]. *3 'IS Mud $ 7 t? s s Mt j± 7 # 22 as *3 2S 71 A Y /'u/'hli/itdly (tyf'Ths: />'t,w>/ ,lt> f/teJLetduvet*\Ja/i%30 . /Jjg appointed to attend me, in the boat, manned with eight people, to j\H%rmy Abia, to learn if the information were well founded. About funfet, faw a fail in the offing. Next day, found the veffel in the offing to be the Speedwell mow, with Mr. Herbert, bound to Madras. 1 went on board the Speedwell, where Mr. Herbert affured me he neither had fent afhore to Ina-nan, nor received any thing from Oran Caio Mahomed. The fnow Stretching off to fea, I was foon obliged to take leave of Mr. Herbert^ from whom I underflood that a (hip and (loop, then in fight, were the Antelope and Euphrates, and that Mr. Broff and Mr. Salmon were on board the Antelope, having charge of the Company's affairs on the coaft i upon which I returned, and anchored behind Pulo Pangir. Tjburja'ay, February the iff. Weighed in the morning, and faw the Antelope flretching to fea. Having fired a gun, I returned and anchored again behind Pulo Pangir, in fifteen fathom muddy ground, within half a mile of the ifland. In the evening the Antelope anchored clofe by us. I went on board to pay my refpeds to Mr. Broff and Mr. Salmon, who gave me orders to follow the Antelope to Rhio, where they faid they would flay fifteen days. Got two bags of rice from the Antelope : fhe could fpare no more, and failed next night. Had alfo a fupply of goods, chiefly blue cloth, from Mr. Broff. To day, the 2d, about noon, the boat returned from Abia, with my letters, and acquainted me, the Mindano oflicers were there. The wind being foutherly, weighed, and fleered for Abia, to land there A a a the the other Mindano foldier, and to fend to Rajah Moodo what I owed him, being two hundred kangans. On Saturday the 3d, anchored behind Ufookan ifland. In the evening, the Mindano officers came on board, their prow being hauled up within Abia river, to repair. I fent letters by them to Rajah Moodo and Fakymolano, and to the former about fifty per cent, more than I owed. I gave alfo ten pieces of blue cloth to the four oflicers, who were men of fome rank; and two pieces of blue cloth to each of the foldiers, who had hitherto accompanied me. I fent alfo four pieces of blue cloth to the Spanifh writer at Mindano, who had written out the grant of Bunwoot to the Englifli : being fo exhaufted, when I left that country, I could not reward him as I wifhed. The Mindano officers feemed very fenfible of the trouble I had taken to find them out; and we parted very good friends. On the 4th, towards evening, we had a great fwell from the northward, though we lay in a manner land locked. In the morning, the gale freshened, and our grapnel came home. Got clofe in more, into nine foot at high water; at low water, the veffel touched a little. At midnight, being high water, hauled the veffel afhore, in a fmooth bay, upon foft fand. On the 5th, found the flook of our grapnel ftraightened. To night the moon was wholely eclipfed : all day we had frefh gales, and a great fea broke on the Point, without us : floated at midnight. 1776* February. To day To day, the 6th, the gale abated ; and the weather fettled : cleaned and breamed the ve Mel's bottom. The people of Abia came on board, and brought us fifh and fruit. Fixed beacons on the bar of fand, that reaches between the fouth part of Ufakan ifland and the main, to direct our going out at high water; finding it impoffible, on account of the vaft fwell, to get out to the northward of the illand, although the tide favoured us. About midnight got our, having touched two or three times on the bar, which happily was foft fand. Having got fairly over, we found a great fwell from the northward. On the 7th, at noon, we were abreaft of Pulo Gaya; at fun-fet, Point Tiga bore W. S. W. three leagues. Sailed on for the ifland Labuan, on our way to Borneo, for provifions. Labuan is the ifland, to which the Englifh retired from Balambangan: it lies oppofite the mouth of the river of Borneo Proper. On Thurfday the 8th, at day light, I found that I had miftaken the point Keemanees, which lies S. W. of Pulo Tiga, for Labuan ifland, and that I had got into the bay of the fame name, fo far, that from feven fathom, muddy ground, the rock off the point bore N. W. by N. I flood out with the land wind, and then anchored. With ten warps, of about feventy fathom each, I got round a kind of button rock, as large as a houfe, that lies off the point of Keemanees, and joins to the main by a reef of rocks, above one mile in length. We warped round in two and a half, and three fathom, fandy ground. From the faid rock, a dry fpot of fand bears W. N. W, about fix miles diftant. At midnight, I anchored in thirteen fathom, muddy ground, within five miles of the Button Rock : it bearing E. N. E. On the oth, weighed, A a a 2 and 776. and fleered S. W. wind N. E. pafTeda kind of table land, on the main February. u^-v-^j of Borneo, leaving it on the left hand. About noon, got fight of Pulo Labuan ; it makes like two hummocs of middling height, clofe together; and bears about eight leagues S. W. of Pulo Tiga. » Anchored at night. In the morning of the 10th, fleered S. S. W. for the mouth of Borneo river. The befl direction is to keep in foft ground. Paffed many fifhing flakes, that at a diflance, look like mails, all within Pulo Mara. At four P. M. got over the bar, on which are three fathom at high water. Rowed a good deal : at midnight got up the river, and anchored abreaft of the refident's houfe. I found here the Luconia Snow, Captain Roffin, belonging to the honourable Company. On the nth, at fun-rife, faluted the factory with five guns, and had the fame number returned. At feven o'clock went afhore, and waited on the refident, Mr. Jeffe, who, by the kindnefs of his manner, made my fhort flay very agreeable; nor did the behaviour of my old fhipmate, Captain Roffin, add a little to my fatisfaction. On Friday the 16th, came in a Buggefs prow, under Englifh colours. After having mended our fails, and got provifions and water, I failed on the 17th, from the town of Borneo but, at noon, the flood tide making, I came to an anchor. Weighed again in the afternoon, and worked down againfl a frefh wind at N. E. When dark, the ebb being over, I came to, about a mile within the bar. On TO NEW GUINEA. 365 On the 18th, we had variable winds and calms the former part of }i7&* Fcbuary. the day ; during the latter, the wind was at N. N. E. and N. E. Early in l—-the morning, we weighed ; and, having rowed down clofe to the bar, we anchored. At day light, weighed, and got over the bar: at ten, the ebb being over, anchored. At two P. M. weighed again, and worked towards Pulo Mara. At four, found the veffel made more water than ufual: fhe had fprung a leak on the (larboard fide, three ftreaks from the keel. Wore,, and ran back to Borneo; and at eight in the morning, came to, abreaft of Mr. Jeffe's houfe. To day, juft before bearing away, we faw a China junk, under Pulo Mara. Next day, the 19th, got every thing out, and hauled the veffel afhore. On the 20th, I employed three Buggefs calkers, who, that day, calked the ftarboard fide of the veffel, and payed it with lime and oil. We found the leak to be a large nail hole. Next day, we calked the larboard fide of the veffel, and payed it with the fame mixture. The Chinefe junk that came from Amoy, paffed us, and was moored head and ftern, abreaft of the town. I had the curiofity to go on board, and meafure her : her length overall, was one hundred and twenty foot; her breadth, thirty foot upon deck ; but more below. The fhank of one of her wooden anchors, was thirty-fix foot long. On the 23d, got a haufer from the Luconia, and hove the veffel oft* the ground. On Tuefday the 27th, I had got every thing ready for fea. In the afternoon, Mr. Jeffe and Captain Roffin came on board ; alfo Mr. Kir-ton, Captain Roffin's chief officer, a very ingenious young gentleman, who had failed round the world with Captain Carteret, and had commanded manded feveral country mips. We then weighed, and ran down the river. At fun-fet, they left us, .and I faluted them with three guns. I followed my friends to the town ; at eleven, took leave of them, and returned on board. As it may not be amifs to fay fomething of the north part of the ifland of Borneo, the reader will find it in the following chapter. CHAP- CHAPTER XVIII. Of the North Part of Borneo—Its Climate—Rivers—Harbours—Pro-fafl—People called Idaan—Their Super/lition—Farther Account oj Places—Advantage of trading from Indoflan hither—Account of the Badjoos and the People of Tedong. rJ-* H E climate puts me in mind of Ceylon, being, from the abundance of woods and verdure, always cool, and not fubject to hot land winds, like the coafl of Coromandel ; nor to great heats, as Calcutta in Bengal, The land and fea winds are always cool; not but that particular circumflances of fituation, in all countries, a fleet the air, as the neighbourhood of fwamps, or the freedom of ventilation intercepted by woods. Moll of this north part of Borneo,* granted to the Englifh Eafl India Company by the Sooloos, is watered by noble rivers. Thofe that dif-charge themfelves into Maludo Bay, are not barred : it has alfo many commodious harbours, Sandakan, Maludo Bay, Ambong, Pulo Gaya on the main land, and many good harbours on the iflands near it. two on Malwally; two, if not more, on Banguey, one of them behind the ifland Patanuan ; two on Balambangan and one behind Maleangan, near Banguey. * See Dalrymple's map of Felicia. Of Of the two harbours on Balambangan, called the north-eaft and fouth-weft, the north eaft is the larger; but on the fouth fide, where the Englilh fettled, the ground is fwampy. At the entrance of the S. W. harbour, is great convenience of watering. Frefh water may be conveyed into the lower deck ports of a firft rate, lying in five fathom, by means of a hofe from a rivulet clofe by. Here alfo the foil is rich and fruitful: at the N. E. harbour, it is fandy and barren. Round the illand, quantities of fifti may be caught. On the main land of Borneo, oppofite Balambangan, and to the ifland Banguey, grow forefts of fine tall timber, without underwood. Freeftone may be had in abundance. Here are large cattle called Li-fang: flocks of deer and wild hogs feed on fpacious plains, in no fear of the tiger, as on the illand Sumatra. The country produces all the tropical fruits in proportion, with many known in few places but Sooloo; fuch as the madang, like a great cuftard apple, and the balono, like a large mango. In this north part of Borneo, is the high mountain of Keeneebaloo, near which, and upon the fkirts of it, live the people called Oran ldaan or Idahan, and fometimes Maroots. The mountain is, in old maps, named St. Peter's Mount, and is flat atop. I have converfed with many Sooloos concerning the Idaan, and with manj of them who underftand Malay. They believe the deity pleafed with human victims. An Idaan or Maroot muft, for once at lead, in his life, have imbrued his hands in a fellow creature's blood; the rich are faid to do it often, adorning their houfes with fculls and teeth, to fhow how much they have honoured their author, and laboured to avert his 17/6. Febuary. TO NEW GUINEA, his chaftifement. Several in low circumftances will club to buy a '775« Bifayan Chriftian Have, or any one that is to be fold cheap; that all <-~v-Zi may partake the benefit of the execution. So at Kalagan, on Mindano, as Rajah Moodo informed me, when the god of the mountain gives no brimftone, they facrifice fome old Have, to appeafe the wrath of the deity. Some alfo believe, thofe they kill in this world, are to ferve them in the next, as Mr. Dalrymple obferves. They are acquainted with a fubtle poifon called Ippoo, the juice of a tree, in which they dip fmall darts. Thefe they moot through a hollow piece of wood, which the Sooloos callfampit ; whence is faid to iiTue inftant death, to whoever is wounded by them. The author of the Origin and Progrefs of Defpotifm, a book tranf-lated from the French, fays, (p. 121.) " Perhaps moft nations in the " world have originally delighted in this horrible parade of human " victims, and this would never have been fuffered, if they had " not been previoully habituated to blood, by the frequent facri-" fice of animals. The blafphemous notion, that the deity can dc-" light in blood, being once efhblifhed, the next blow was to ftrikc " the prieftly knife into the throats of men, and let loofe that purple " torrent, which, according to their hellilh doctrine, was the moft " valuable, and the moft pleafing in his eyes." Me then Ays, " How " bleft are we Chriftians, in the myfterious doctrine, that the blood of " Jefus Chrift fhall prove a fufficient facrifice for the fins of mankind 1" The Idaan pen hogs and eat pork. They carry their rice, fruits, &c. to the fea fide, and buy fait from the Badjoos, who make it often in this manner. They gather fea weeds, burn them, make a lye of ames, filter it, and form a bitter kind of fait in fquare pieces, by B b b boiling ^ ^776- boiling it in pans made of the bark of the aneebong. Thefe pieces of fait are carried to maiket, whither both the Idaan and muflulmen refort; and pafs as a currency for money. The places granted to the Englifh, fouth of Pirate's point, are named PandafTan, Tampn^ook, Abia, Ambong, Salaman, Tawarran, Inanan, and Patatan, as far as Keemanees. In this extent of coaft are two good harbours, Ambong, and behind Pulo Gaya, of which hereafter. This coaft is better inhabited than that eaft of Pirate's point, extending a little beyond the fpacious harbour of Sandakan, to Towfon Abia, where the grant terminates. The latter is mollly low land, and the inhabitants live up the rivers a good way ; whereas, on the former part of the grant, the coaft is fomewhat higher, and inhabited clofe to the fea. The Mahometans live moftly by the fea fide, at the mouths of rivers; and preclude, as much as they can, Europeans from having intercourfe with the Idaan and Maroots : but, at Balambangan, and on the ifland Labuan, near Borneo, the Idaan in their boats, brought hogs, fruits, &c. and were glad to fee the Englifti eat pork like themfelves. The north part of Borneo is faid to have been once under the dominion of China. Mr. Dalrymple, in his plan for fettling Balambangan, gives a very particular and juft account of this country, which he calls Felicia j and adds, that the Idaan, if well ufed, would flock from every quitter, to whoever fhould fettle there. This I firmly believe, with that judicious, and inquifitive gentleman. I have feen many of them, not only at Balambangan, e lambangan, but on the coaft of Borneo, and have converfed with feveral in Malay;—what the fame obferver lays, about their respecting the Mahometans, is alfo ftrictly true. They confider the Mahometans as having a religion, which they have not yet got: and I am of opinion, from the mor.d character which they deferve, not only that his fchem of civilizing them could be carried into effect, but that our religion could he eafily introduced among them. The horrid cuftom already mentioned, paves the way: the tr an fit ion hinted by the author of the origin of defpotifm, fufhciently points it out. The Idahan punifh murder, theft, and adultery, with death; and take but one wife. Had our fettling in this quarter fucceeded, in them would have been a van: acquilition of people to furnifh us with pepper, and rough materials for exportation, from their many rivers; behde the precious articles of gold and diamonds; and the great benefit a free trade, from Indoftan hither, would bring to Bengal and Bombay. A race of Lafcars (failors) might be brought up in it, which would employ many veifels, as the commmodities are bulky, that return the fait and calicos of Indoftan. Thefe Lafcars, mixed with an equal number of Englifh failors, would fight a fhip well ; as has been often experienced in India, efpecially on the coafl of Malabar. Another advantage would have attended our fettling in this quarter : the quick intercourfe with Cochin-China, and other places on the weft coaft of the China feas. To fail thither, from any place already mentioned, or from Balambangan, and to return, the courfe being nearly N. W. or S. E. either monfoon is a fair wind upon the beam ; and Cochin-China would take off, not only many woollens, but many Indoftan cottons, particularly Bengal Muflins; as I learnt from a very intelligent Chinefe at Balambangan, who fpoke good Malay. B b b 2 The vll7u' ^e -^a^i00 People, called Oran Badjoo, are a kind of itinerant fifher-v » —men, faid to come originally from Johore, at the eaft entrance of the ftraits of Malacca. They live chiefly in fmall. covered boats, on the coafts of Borneo and Celebes, and adjacent iflands. Others dwell clofe to the fea, on thofe iflands, their houfes being railed on pofts, a little diftance into the fea, always at the mouths of rivers. They are Mahometans. At PaffiYs river's mouth, are many of thofe Badjoos, who employ themfelves chiefly in catching with hand nets, which they pufh through the mud, fmall fhrimps. Thefe well wafhed in fea water, they expofe to a hot fun. They then beat them in a mortar, into a kind of pafte with a ftrong fmell, called blatchong, much in requeft all over India. The Badjoos of Borneo alfo make fait. Thefe laft Badjoos may be called fixt or ftationary, compared with thofe who live always in their boats, and who, as the monfoon fhifts on the iflands Borneo and Celebes, fhift, or move always to leeward, for the fake of fine weather, as the Tartars in Afia fhift their tents for the fake of enjoying perpetual fummer. In their original country, Johore, where it would feem an old method to live in boats; it is faid, that on a certain feftival, they crotided in numbers, and made faft their boats, aflern of the veflel, in which was their prince; it being their cuftom at certain feafons to do fo: but, a ftorm arifmg from the land, they were driven acrofs the fouthern part of fhe China fea, to the coaft of Borneo; and of this they celebrate the anniverfary, by bathing in the fea on an annual day. They TO NEW GUINEA. They have a language of their own, but no written character ; and many Badjoos are fettled on the N. W. coafl of Borneo, where they not only fifh, but make fait; and trade in fmall boats along the coafh At Macaffar live many Badjoos, chiefly on the water in covered boats, and fhift their fituation with the monfoon, but confider Ma-calTar as their home. When I went in 1773 from Paflir, to vifit the little Patcrnoflers that lie mid way between Borneo and Celebes, I found many Badjoo boats, about five or fix tons burden ; all of them having the tripod mail, and lyre tanjong. Several had women and children on board. They lay at anchor, filhing for fwallo, or fea llug, in feven or eight fathom water. They fee the fwallo in clear water, and ftrike it as it lies on the ground, with an inftrument, confifling of four bearded iron prongs, fixed alongan almoft cylindrical ftone, rather fmaller at one end than the other, about eighteen inches long. They always fix an iron fhot at the end of the ftone, next the point of the irons. They alfo dive for fwallo, the beft being got in deep water. The black fwallo is reputed the beft; but, I have feen fome of a light colour, found only in deep water, which I was allured to be of more value in China than the black ; and fold even for forty dollars a pecul. The pieces are much larger than are generally thofe of the black fwallo, fome of them weighing half a pound. The white fwallo is the worft, eafily got in fhoal water, and on the dry find, among coral rocks at low water. Its value is about four or five dollars a pecul. Thofe l776- Thofe Badioos fettled on the N. W. coaft of Borneo, near rivers Febni try. *—^ mouths, ufecl to fupply us at Balambangan, with rice, fowls, and other provifions. On the N. E. part of Borneo, is a favage piratical people, called Oran Tedong, or Tiroon, who live far up certain rivers. The Sooloos have lately fubdued them, by getting the Rajah (or chief) into their power. * Thefe Oran Tedong fit out veifels large and fmall, and cruife among the Philippine iflands, as has been formerly faid.-f They alfo cruife from their own country, weft to Pirate's point, and down the coaft of Borneo, as far as the ifland Labuan. After an excursion I once made from Balambangan to Patatan, a little beyond the ifland Pulo Gaya ; on my return, I put into a fmall bay, eaft of Pirate's point, almoft oppofite Balambangan. There appeared nine Tedong-pirates, in veifels of fmall fize, about that of London wherries below bridge. Several Badjoo boats being in the bay at the fame time, the people laid the boats clofe to the fliore, landed, and clapt on their (Ranty) iron-ring jackets for defence. The pirates kept in a regular line, put about, and ftretched off altogether, not choofmg to land. Had 1 been alone in the bay, I might have fallen into their hands. The Oran Tedong live very hard on their cruifes, their provifions fometimes being raw fago flour. They have often no attop or covering; nay, fometimes as the Sooloos have told me, they go, efpecially if it rains, ftark naked. The Moors of Magindano, and the Illanos, alfo Moors, defpife thefe people. When they meet, however, in roads and harbours among the Philippines, where the common prey is, they do * See page 335. t Page 16. not not molefl one another. I have been told, that the Oran Tedong will, T7?6. in certain cafes, cat human flefh. If this be true, it can only be like l*—a"^j the Battas on Sumatra, in a frantic fit of refentment. That the Battas do fo, I am too well allured. Their boats are fometimes fmall, and made of thin planks, fewed together. I have heard of fome fuch, once (hut up in a bay by a Spanifh cruifer: they took their boats to pieces, and carried them away over land. The Oran Tedong make a great deal of granulated fago, which they fell to the Sooloos very cheap; perhaps at one dollar a pecul. The Sooloos, as has been faid, fell this again to the China Junks. Before I leave this people, I muff mention, with whatever reluctance, one thing faid of them, that fpeaks the barbarity of thofe who have had no revealed religion, Jewifh or Chriftian, Mahometan or Jentoo. When the Oran Tedong get into their hands many prifoners, to fecure themfelves, they will lame fome of the ftoutefl; nay leave them, on perhaps a little fandy illand, (of which are many in the Sooloo archipelago, and among the Philippines) till they be at leifure to fetch them. Nor do they flick at breaking the limbs of their captives, in cowardly fear of their own. So juflly do the Moors defpife them for Barbarians. CHAP. CHAPTER XIX. Directions for failing down the AT, W. Coaft of Borneo, from Pirates Point to the River—Defcription of the Town—Return thence to Fort Marlborough. k77g. XT'ROM Pirate's Point,* which lies in latitude 7° N. to Batoo-cbriiary^ JL mandee (warned rock) Point, are feveral hays, where fhips working up and down the coaft, may anchor fafely, and get water from the fhore. In the chart is one namelefs point, almoft, half way between the two points already mentioned : it is very well reprefented in the map, with a bay to its fouthward. Many (harp pointed black rocks peep above water, off this point; but they may be approached within a quarter of a mile; and there is good landing to leeward, (if the monfoon allow) with clear plains* and plenty of deer, of whichlhave eaten. Juft to the fouthward of Batoomandee, is a commodious bay, at the mouth of Pandaffan river, which has a good bar. Farther on is the bar of the great river of Tampaffook, on which, at times, the furf breaks very high. Next is Abia river, the bar of which is fmooth, the ifland Ufookan lying before it, and will admit a veftcl of fourteen foot water in the fprings. The paffage is to the northward of Ufookan, the ifland proving, at low water, a peninfula, leaving, confequently, no paffage between it and the main. Between this ifland and Ambong harbour, a bay opens, where is good riding in the N. E. monfoon. See Mr, Dalrymple's map of Felicia, and general chart. Ambong Ambong harbour is large and commodious, having good depth of water, with a button like illand well laid down, at the entrance of it. Keep that ifland cn the right hand, and you'll come into a fine harbour on the fouth fide, clofe to fome fait houfes. From this harbour, proceeding fouthwards, you pafs the mouths of the two rivers Salaman and Tawarran, and approach Dallid point. From this Kaitan point bears S. W. by W. five miles, and Mancabong river runs between. Kaitan point is bold and blufT. When it bears eaftward of fouth, and not before, (coming from the northward) you'll open four iflands; the firft pretty high, called Pulo Pangir, the other three much fmaller. The beft track to get into the fpacious bay, before which lie thefe four iflands, is to the fouthward of Pangir, keeping either clofe to it, cr in mid channel between it and the land next to the fouthward of it, which is the proper Pulo Gaya. * Pulo Gaya is an ifland fix or eight miles round, and being very near the main land, appears from the fea to be part of it. The channel which feparates it from the main, is faid to have deep water •> but, that which I paffed in a boat, I found full of rocks. It is impoflible to mifs the paffage into the above bay ; if the fhip be kept to the fouthward of Pulo Pangir, between it and Pulo Gaya. The next ifland, to the northward of it, is Pulo Udar, fmaller ; the next to it, little Udar, ftill fmaller; the fourth, and f naileft, is named Pulo Priu. Thefe three are almoft joined to the fourth and fouthermoft, by reefs of rocks, with an intricate channel between Pulo Panpir and the next to the northward of it. North eaft of Pulo Pan* gir runs a reef, on which a China junk was loft many years ago : I faw on the reef, her rudder funk in three fathom water, upon coral rocks. * Plate XXVL- In Mr. Dalrymple'sMap, Pulo Pangir is called Pulo Gaya. C c c la In the N. E. part of this bay, are faid to be a good harbour, and* with a fmooth bar, as difcharging itfelf into it, a river called Laba-tuan. To the fouthward of Labatuan is Inanan, which has alfo a fmooth bar, but is very mallow. Patatan lies to the fouthward of Pulo Gaya, and entirely out of the bay : its bar is fmooth, but likewife (hallow. Three or four miles up the river Patatan, ftands the town, the houfes, about a hundred, fronting the water. Above the town-are many pcppei gardens belonging to Chinefe, in a delightful country. Farther down the coaft is Pappal river, the banks abounding with coco nut trees, in fo much, that during the floods, many nuts are driven to fea. Steering on from Pulo Gaya, Si W. by W. you approach Pulo Tiga, and the point of Keemanees. Pulo Tiga is- fo called, as confining of three iflands, pretty clofe, and of a gentle flope ; each having an even outline, and a fine white beach : they bear from Keemanees point, N. E. by N. two leagues. This point makes a bay to the eaftward of it fo deep, that from feven fathoms water, muddy ground, the point bears N. W. by N. with fmooth water, during the S. W. monfoon. At the point of Keemanees, appears a rock like a houfe, with a bufh or two atop j it terminates a very rocky point, at the diftance of a mile, of? which is but two fathom water: it muft not therefore be approached. A dry fand bears from it W. N. VV. about fix miles. Pulo Tiga lies in latitude 50 36'. From the rocky point of Keemanees, Pulo Labuan bears S. W. about fix leagues. The proper paffage towards Borneo river, is without this ifland ; within is fhoal water, two and a half, and three fathom fandy ground. So, at lead, I found it ; there may, however, be deeper water. The ifland Labuan, beheld from from the N. E. forms the femblance of two hummocs. A remarkable rock, like a two mafted velfel, lies W. S. W, of it, at fome diftance from the Borneo more : keep mid channel, between Labuan and this rock, fleering fouth. In this channel, you will fee low land right ahead, not unlike a clipped hedge. A little way inland, to the right, is a peaked hill. When this hill bears W. or to the northward of W. haul in for the channel, which goes by Pulo Mara, a low ifland, bearing from Labuan S. S. W. ten miles. To the northward of Pulo Mara, runs a fpit of fand, three or four miles. Be fure to keep within it, in foft ground ; as on the fpit the fea often breaks very high. The channel is then clofe by Pulo Mara, which mufl be left on the right hand. Hence many fifhing flakes extend towards the river's mouth, having the appearance of lb many mails, Pulo Chirming (Glafs Illand) bears about W. by S. eight miles from Pulo Mara. Keep in foft ground : but here it would be proper to get a pilot, or at leafl to anchor, and explore the channel. In paffing Pulo Chirming, you muft keep clofe to the ifland, leaving it on the left, to avoid an artificial bank of coral rocks, piled, doubtlefs, for fome purpcfe: it dams up the water a little, and is vifible at low tide. From Pulo Chirming, it is about ten miles to the town of Borneo, in a S. W. by W. direction. One mile from town, a fhort reach bends almoft in an oppofite diredion, round a fmall ifland. Being up wifh this ifland, which you muft leave on the right, appears a branch of the river from the left or S. E. Keep to the right, and finifh the mile to town, whither can come up junks of fix hundred tons. C C C 2 The town of Borneo is fituate, as has been faid, about ten miles up the river from Pulo Chirming. The houfes are built on each fide the river upon pofls, and you afcend to them by flairs and ladders,, as to back doors of warehoufes in Wapping. The houfes on the left fide, going up, extend backwards to the land, each in a narrow flip. The land is not fteep, but flielving ; every houfe has therefore a kind of ftage, erected for connexion with the land. There is little intercourfe from houfe to houfe by land, or what may be called behind ; as there is no path, and the ground is fwampy : the chief communication proves thus in front, by boats, On the right, going up, the houfes extend about half a mile backwards, with channels like lanes, between the rows; fo that it would feem, the river, before the houfes were built, made a wide bafon of fhallow water, in which have arifen three quarters of the town, re-fembling Venice ; with many water lanes, if 1 may fo fay, perpendicular and parallel to the main river, which here is almoft as wide as the Thames at London bridge, with fix fathom water in the channel ; and here lie moored, head and ftern, the China junks; four or fiveof which come annually from Amoy, of five or fix hundred tons burden. The water is fait, and the tide runs about four miles an hour in the fprings. Some of the houfes on the right fide of the water, are two ftories high, which I neyer faw in any other Malay country, with ftages or wharfs before them, for the convenience of trade. At Paffir, on the oppofite fide of this ifland, the houfes front the river; fome have ftages or wharfs in front; but there are no water lanes as here at Borneo. At Paffir, the river is frefh, and often rapid ; at Borneo, the river is fait, and feldom rapid. TO NEW GUINEA. *8i %j In thofe divifions of the town, made by the water lanes, is neither '770* Fcbrinfy. firm land nor ifland ; the houfes Handing on pofls, as has been *-—■—■> faid, in fhallow water ; and the public market is kept fometimes in one part, fometimes in another part of the river. Imagine, a fleet of London wherries, loaded with fifh, fowl, greens, &c. floating up with the tide, from London Bridge towards Weflminfler; then down again, with many buyers floating up and down with them ; this will give fome idea of a Borneo market. Thofe boats do not always drive with the tide, but fometimes hold by the flairs of houfes, or by flakes, driven purpofely into the river,, and fometimes by one another : yet, in the courfe of a forenoon, they vifit moil part of the town, where the water lanes are broad. The boat people (moflly women) are provided with large bamboo hats, the fhade of which covers great part of the body, as they draw themfelves up under it, and fit, as it were,, * upon their heels. The many alligators here, do not make their appearance in the day, but at night j and it is dangerous falling out of a boat. Yet it is fur-prifing, in how fmall canoes the natives will go up and down the river. The alligators lurk under the houfes, living upon any offal* that gets through a kind of lattice floor. So at Batavia, the alligators frequent the river's mouth, for what comes from the city. Confiderable is the commerce between China and Borneo, fome-what like the trade from Europe to America. Seven junks were at Borneo in 1775. They carry to China great quantities of black wood, which is worked up there into furniture, etc. it is bought for about two dollars a pecul 3 and fold for five or fix: alio ratans, dammer dammer, a kind of refin, clove bark, fwallo, tortoifhell, birds nefts, &c. articles fuch as are carried from Sooloo to China. The beft native camphire is exported hence ; fuperior, I have been told, to the Barroos camphire on Sumatra. It looks no better, but is much dearer, felling for ten or twelve Spanifh dollars the Chinefe catty; Barroos camphire, looking as well, being worth no more than feven and eight dollars a catty. The Chinefe are good judges of camphire. A great deal of this valuable drug comes from thofe parts of the illand Borneo, that were ceded to us by the Sooloos. At Borneo-town, the Chinefe fometimes build junks, which they load with the rough produce of the ifland Borneo, and fend thence to China. I have feen a dock clofe to the town, in which a China junk of 500 tons had lately been built, worth 2500 taels, and 8000 in China. Could thefe junks come readily at our woollens, they would diftribute immenfe quantities through the northern parts of China. Here are many Chinefe fettled, who have pepper gardens. They do not let the vine, which bears the pepper, twift round a chinkareen tree, as is the cuftom on Sumatra ; but drive a pole, or rather a ftout poft, into the ground, fo that the vine is not robbed of its nourifh-ment. The Chinefe keep the ground very clean between the rows of vine; and I have feen them pull off the vine leaves ; faying, they did it that the pepper corn might have more fun. I have here counted feventy, fometimes feventy-five, corns of pepper on one ftalk; which is more than the ftalks produce on Sumatra; and 1 am apt to think the chinkarecns on Sumatra are hurtful, as they not only rob the ground, but take up much of the planter's time in trimming the luxuriant branches, that thefe may not overfhade the vine. On Sumatra, matra, the country is full of wood, as here on Borneo; fo were our planters there to adopt the Rornean method,, they never could find a fcarcity of pofls;. which, if made of what is called iron wood, will remain in the ground many years without rotting. The Chinefe here are very active and induftrious. They bring all* kinds of the manufacture of china, and keep fhops on board their junks, as well as afhore;. but the Borneans do their bed to preclude them from dealing with the Maroots, referving the trade for themfelves. I do not find that the Maroots grow pepper. The Chinefe alone plant it. It is all fent to China. We found it dearer than at Paffir, where it was ten dollars a pecul : here it is fourteen and fifteen. I am furprifed they do not encourage the Maroots to plant this commodity. This was Mr. Dalrymple's idea in his plan concerning Balambangan. It gives a European pleafure to fee the regularity and cleanlinefs on board the Chinefe vefTels. To the latter much contributes their not ufino- tar. Their tanks for water are fweet and convenient. They have the art of putting a mixture of lime and oil into their fcams on the deck, Sec. which hardens and keeps them tight: This is much cleaner than pitch ; but, if the deck worked at fea, I apprehend this calking would break, and the junk prove leaky. Their cook rooms are remarkably neat. The crew all eat off china ; and in a harbour, every one is employed without noife about his own bufinefs. Among Malay trading veflfels, prevail a languor and dcadnefs: every thing they do is in a flovenly manner, which difgufts Europeans. If the profits 177G. Fcbru.t profits have maintained them during the voyage, they are contented ; as they make a home of every place they frequent, moving fiowly from it, as if unwilling. From this cenfurc I except the Buggeffes, who are really men of bufinefs. Malays mix liquid opium with a certain herb called madat, and this they fmoke in a large pipe.* Mr. Palmer being ill at Balambangan, received benefit from thus taking opium : he had tried to take it, as is ufual, in drops of laudanum ; but fo, it broke his reft. It is a cuftom in port, both on board Malay and Chinefe veflel s, to hang in the water, clofe forward over each bow, a bag of lime : this impregnating the water near the furface, in their opinion, keeps off the worm. The government at Borneo is of a mixed kind, as at Magindano and Sooloo. The firft perfon is filled the Eang de Patuan ; and the fecond, the Sultan. Then come the Pangarans (nobles) about fifteen in number, who often tyrannife over the people. The Borneans hive the character of a fenfible, fteady people, and are faid to have much primitive ilri&nefs and fimplicity of manners : they deteft the Sooloos, who arc gay and agreeable in private life, but reftlefs as a ftate, and flick at nothing to promote their ambition. Having, as before related, taken leave of Mr. Jeffe on Tucflay the 27th of February, next day, early in the morning, weighed and rowed down the river. At eight A. M. came to within Pulo Chirming. At five P. M. got over the bar: rowed and failed paft Pulo Mara. At mid- 384 1776. February. * Plate XXVII. night, February, TO NEW GUINEA. 385 night, fhoaled our water from three fathom mud to nine foot fand 1776- Fdhrlllr and perceived a ground fwell: altered our courfe, and got off; then anchored. The fand we had been upon, was a fpit that ftretches three miles without Pulo Marra. On the 29th, winds from the N. E. the firft part of the day, and then from the S. E. Steered out between Two-Maft illand, and the fmall iflands S. W. of, and near Labuan. At noon, Labuan bore N. E. two leagues; Two-Maft ifland W. two miles, and the extreme of Pulo Marra S. S. Ei tv/o leagues. We then had fifteen fathom muddy ground, and were in latitude 50 25'. Two-Maft ifland makes like a veflel with two malls, when feen bearing Weft W. N. W. or W. S, W. Several rocks appear above water clofe to it. Steered S. W. At fun-fet, Labuan bore E. N. E. and Two-Maft ifland S. E. by S. three miles. Steered W. by N. wind N. E. In the night, had a large fwell, and a frefh gale, which carried away our cutwater. Soon after a fea broke on our quarter; but, the deck being flufh, it went off. Had the veflel been without a deck, as from Balambangan to New Guinea, it would have filled her. Wednefday, March the ift. Steered W. by N. with a frefh gale, which made a great fea. Saw a two maft prow fleering S. W. On the fixth, faw one of the Anambas, called by fome Serantan, to which I made from Labuan 8° 6' meridian diftance weft. I then fleered S. S. W. intending to go through the ftrait to the fouthward of Bintang and Rhio, having heard at Borneo, that many Johore pirates were in the ftrait of Sincapore. That night, I ftruck found- D d d ings ings from thirty to twenty, eight fathom muddy ground. On the feventh, paffed to the fouthward of Pulo Panjang; at eight in the morning, Bintang hill bore W. N. W. and Lingin S. W. On the eighth, ninth and eleventh, I worked through a ftrait to the fouthward of Bintang, and an ifland fouth of it, which is pretty long, and makes in hummocs. The ftrait lies nearly N. W. and S. E. and is paffabie by fhips. On the thirteenth, I arrived in Malacca road | on the fifteenth, failed thence; and on the twenty-feventh, being detained by calms and contrary winds, was no farther advanced than to the coaft of Sumatra, in latitude 50 54' north, where we had the winds at N. W. On the twenty-eight, flood over for Queda, where I arrived the twenty-ninth. On the thirtieth, having got water and provifions, I was ready to fail by feven at night. Then, my mate, David Baxter, and Laurence Lound the gunner, went afhore, refufing to proceed, as objecting to the veffel. On the 31 ft, I hauled her afhore, and fhifted about three foot of bad plank on each fide. By the fixth of April, having finifhed the repairs of the veffel, I ftrongly invited my mate and gunner to continue with me; but they would not. On the feventh, I failed; and, on the thirteenth, arrived in Atcheen Road, where I found Thomas Palmer, Efquire, late third of Balambangan, in a floop at anchor. We agreed to keep company to Bencoolen. I ftaid afhore at Atcheen, till the feventeenth, to recover my health, having been indifpofed fince I left Queda. We then failed in company, and that night got through the Surat paffage. On the nineteenth, I put into the harbour of Siddo, to the fouthward of King's Point, feven miles. As March. As fhips often make this famous promontory of Atcheen, I could 1776 with to fay fomething of it before I conclude, having frequent- u-^o ly traded hereabouts. The chart of Atcheen publifhed in the directory, is fufficiently accurate as to the road, and the Surat paflage ; but,, off Pulo Brafs are foundings, twenty fathom fandy ground, not marked in that chart, where any fhip may fafely anchor out of the currents, and wait a fhift of wind. The Surat paffage is bold and fafe for a (Lip to work through in either monfoon. In the fprings, the tide runs five and fix knots ; but, immediately to the fouthward or northward of this narrow pafs (which, being formed by two promontories, has no length, and is about eighty fathom in width) the tide flacks. I would advife, in working thro' againft. the S. W. monfoon, to lay the fhip's head to the main of Sumatra, with the main topfail aback, becaufe the perpendicular rock is fleep to, the more of the oppofite iiland not being fo bold. In the paffage, and near.it, the ground is foul. Having got through, the tide will favour the navigator part Pulo Gomez, between which and Sumatra, is a fafe channel with good anchoring ground : the tide will alfo favour as far as Siddo harbour,* if the fhip is kept all the way pretty near the fliore, where is good anchoring. Going into this harbour, the Sugar Loaf hill and the Slipper rock are remarkable: you may keep clofe to the Slipper rock, and lie very fafe in either monfoon. Here wood and water may be had, and refrefhments as at Atcheen : bullocks much cheaper. From this, with a frefh land wind, a fhip may flretch off, and get down the coafl of Sumatra, where fhe will find the wind W. and N. W. Whilft * Plate XXVII, Whilffc in this harbour, I found the Tartar Galley fo bad, that I I refolved, with all my people, to quit her. Mr. Palmer, having many fervants and others on board of his floop, one of them, a daring Malay, undertook to get her navigated to Fort Marlbro', putting on board of her four horfes out of his Hoop's hold. As I refolved to accept his kind invitation to go with him to Fort Marlbro' in his iloop, which was flout and ftrong, I was glad the horfes were to be difmiiled. I arrived the latter end of June, with my people, whom I paid oft" and difcharged. The Tartar Galley came in foon after, and was hauled afhore. At Fort Marlbro', I gave an account of the voyage to Mr. Broffand Mr. Salmon, who, on my fignifying I was going home to lay the fame before the Honourable Court of Dire&ors, wrote to them under date the 24th of July 1776 : " The Tartar Galley, late under the command " of Captain Thomas Forreft, was brought hither a few days ago, by " fome Malay men from the northward, in a very leaky condition ; ".her bottom being entirely deflroyed by worms. She was hauled " afhore foon after her arrival, and we fhall take the firft opportunity " of difpohng of her at public fale. We cannot help exprefling our M furprife, that Captain Forreft fhould attempt a voyage he has com-" pleted in a veflel of fo fmall a burden as ten tons." 4333 VOCABULA R Y OF t II E M A G I N D A N O TO N G U E TIi* V*wel A ii pronounced open as in the Word BaI. Engtijh. ABAFT Above About Abhor Able Ability Able (I am) Abroad Abundant Action work Accord Adder Adore to worfhip Affliction Affluent Afloat Afternoon Agog Air Alive Allied All Always Aliment Alike Ambaffador Magindam. OL1NAN Depulo Malipulug Maligifh Pa tut Capattan Sake malow Salewan Marakul Maghenam Pafagdi Nipac Muguimbyan. Ma Lemong; Tamug Makilas IVlalolom Mahobunug Cauang Mocug Kitamag pagaly J .angu Amug-amug Kannon Magigfan Suguan rt Ambitious Another Ankle Angel Angle, to fifli Angle, point Animal Apparel Arm Ante Arrival Arrack Arrow A fide Afk Aflemblage AfTent A flu ranee. Attend Attack Aunt Awake Awhile Aye B Baby Babbler A Magindanol Mabangol Lain Bubun Malaycet Bunet Tukka Binatang Nu-ug Batkol nagaly Bbal Dogan Naku ma Alack Panna Saluvat Mangani Magkatepung Pafagdi Tawaial Patungo Magaway Paqui inan Boat Karon Paedub Wy Wata Mugtalug Batchcloi 2 A V O C A 8 U L A R Y. Ma^in dan 9. . Bate he lor Dapaku-duma Back Dewafs Bad Pintas "Bag Baloyot Balance Catehan Bandage Balotan 'Bank Bungfud Bare Huba Bargain Paho+aman ,Bark " Up.es Bale Pintas Barren Bagutow Baft-full Mugkahuifl Balkct Salu To bathe • Paigu A bath keeper Payguan Battery, fort .Cota Bay Labuan, fugud Beads Kulintus Beard Bunwoot baca Bear, carry Sapiouwan Beautiful Mapia Bed Pakatugan Bee .Putiokan Beg Mangani Believe Enu enu Bell Lingany Belly Tean Bench Bankoo Betroth Magtepan Bell Mapia totoo Bewail Pugfugun Ho wan nan Beyond Big with child Mabdos Big Mafela Bind Balud Bird Papanoc, hyub Boakon Bifea Bite Kagoton Black Maiton Bladder Balokan Blame Pakafalla Englifh* Blanket, covering Blind Blood Blunt Blow Board Boafter Boat, great Boar, fmall Boat, fighting Bold Bond Both Bottle Bottom Bow Bowl Boy Branch of a tree Brain Brave Breadth Break Break of day Breeches Breeze Bridle Bright Brimftone Bring here Brittle Broad Brother Elder brother Younger brother Build Bundle Bufh Butter Bull Button Magindano. Habui Boota Lugu Dema owtong 'Manludpan Tappe Pucaquen Ouwang mafela Ouwang paedu Ouwang mangaio Mabagul Ingy Dalua katow Fiafka xElalom Bufugun Eajali Mafela ■Paedu mama Sanga caiu •Uctuck tangok Mawalow Man lad Mapuffa Paddial S allow al Hangin paedup Balal Mahayan Aflupli Wet cafey Dematugas Maulad Pagaly Caca Adi Maghinan Balotan Pal um pong Mantega Sapi mama Buttones Cabb A V OCA B U L A R Y. Cabin Cage Cake Calk Camel Canal Cane Cannon Cape Capftan Captive Carcafs Care Carry Carry to fea Carelefs Cafh Cafila bark Cat Caft Catch Cave Chain Chalk, lime Charitable Cheap Cheek Cheer up, a rowin Cheft Child Chocolate Circle Clapper of a bell Claw Clean Clear Cloth Clove Cloud Club Coach Magindano. Salud Waly papanok Paniallum Bepakul, calfatty Wood Canal Baras Mafela lutang Tukka Galengan Olipun Eawafs Malero Weet Weet fa caloran Mapaoy Poufin Upis matamis Sika Ebuget Dakob Eungib Ranty Apog Macilimoon Bagutow Pilni gE, an magia Kaban Wata Chocolatey Bulat Baffal la lingany Cokko Magdakdak Mahayag Sapot Bunga lowan Auan Sampok Carofle Englifo. Charcoal Coaft Coat Cock Coffin Cold Comb Combat Come Comrade Conjointly Con fent Converfatioh • Cook Cord Coft Cough Coufin Countenance • Couple Cow Coward Coy Creep Cruel Small bowh cup Cunning Current Cut Cutlafs D Dance Dare Dark Day Day light Dead Deaf Dear Debt Decent Dije&ed Magindano, Ulig Pakilidan Bankalla Manock mama K a bau Matungow Soo-ud Puggawy Seeka Upuclku • Magikfan ikfan Pafagdi Magtalu Towdapog Lubid llabyzan Pagubo Igtungudminfan Wiahon Satima Sappi babaye Matalao Magkahoia Magheny Mai leg Lajah Paedup Makafag Suig mabangul Vtud Kampilan Magfaut Mapangol • Mad iiu in Cenang Malamag Niatty Demakenog Mahal Makaotag Maria Makro figunhowa Diliiioi. Fjtglijh. Delirious Defire Deiigent Dirty Difli Difmils Diftant Dive Divorce Do Dog Down Dread Drefs Drink Drop Drum Dry Duck Dumb Dung E Ear Earth Early Ebb Eale Edge E*ro Bo Kighc Elbow Elements Embrace End Encouragement Empty Enlarge Entry Efpoufe Even Ewe Examine Magindano. Quitaquita Mnyug Man to 1 Mafigfik Kaunan Bcnokoan Mawattan Tumigpu-fa-ig Nagbuag Maghenam Aflu Lalum Cagelok Panakton Ominum Pagtuu Tamboor .Mamalla Patcu -Bunugun Ty Deungan Lopa Mapita Ig pagerat Mapia gunhowa Maottong /Lumoan Wallu Siko Bangfa Magakos Wulbong Engyan la tamok Mamalla Ularon 1 amba Pangarumakan Pakaladlon Canding- babye Dernagakrata Eugli/h. Expire Extol Eye Face Faith Fall Fan Far Faft Fat Father Fear Feather Feel Feet Sole of the foot Feaft Fine Finger Fin Finiih Fire Fifh Flag Flat FlefTi Float Floor Flute Fly Fool Foot Forget Fork Fortune Foul Four Free Friend Frightfull From Magindano. Meaty Paboa Matta Uyawhun Demagpial Meholug *Kab-kab Watan Samoot Mai urn bo Amma Mugkagelok ,Bul-bul Anam Ay-i Palad ay i .Mapia kannon Manahoot Tindolo Pale Baluy Klaioo Sura, fuda Bandela Datal Unud Makilas Salog Plauta Tallabang Bunug, dupang Siki, butis iNalintan Panchutfu Parkapia Maligfik Apat Madika Pagamigos Kadeaypan See-ee EugUJb. Fruit Full Furious G Galley Gall Gallop Gate Gay Gelt Get up Giddy Gimblct Girl Glafs Glitter Globe Go God Good Tolerably good Goofe Goat Gone Got Grain Grave of the dead Grandfather Great Green Greive Grind Gripe Ground Grow Guard Guitar Gum Gun Gut H Hair Magindano. Buoul Pakamalan Mabunngmatoto Galera Puddu Matulid Puta Kilamugamigos Kappoon Tindug Pateug fuloo Lukub Babye, baguto Chirming Makga Malpulug Angy Alatalla Mapia Mapia pia Ganfa Canding Lumakow Nakowa Bungabunga Kalot Apu Mafela Madoolow Mankaledo Galigan Mafakifutian Lupa Oeug Patunga Guitara Tagok Sanapan Teenyc Bohok Englijh. Hale Hammer Hand Handfome Harbour Harlot Harm Hafte Flat Hue To hazard He Head Heal Hear Heart Hearth Heat Heaven Heel Hell Help Hence Hen Her Here Hew Hid High Hill Him Hip Hither 1 loarfe Hog Hold Hollow Honeft Horn Horfe Hole fugud Magindano, Paguron Dongfu Alema ManifTan Labuan, Mabeya Makasaki Samut Sallup Deakomoeog Lawalaean Sakka Ulo Pagoyagon Makenug Pulling Sigang Mayow Lang it Buull Inferno Tabang Dekafec Manock babyc Sakka Sahan Pagu t u d on-Wa fly Pagtagoan Malundoo Palao Sakka Wtetan % L ioos Babuey Dakupor DallaSulud Maungangun Tai dok Kuda Megas Hot EngHJh Hot Hour Houfe Hundred Hunger Hurt Hufh 1 Jail Jaw Idle If Ignorant 111 Image Indigo Invincible Inland Into Iron Ifland Judge Juftice Keep Kettle Kifs Knot Knowledge Knee Kneel L Lady Lake Lament Land Laft Laugh Law Father in law Mangidano Maiou Oras Wally Sagatos Pakagnton Palean Bungul Belangoan Baggan Mapaog Kun Dematow Magafaki Pandapatan Pandaag Elallong Saingud Lalum Pootow 1*0010 Kelaketa mantery Vucum Taggo Kaluagan Pugharo Balegotal Matow Tnhud Maga lohod Potely Dano, lano Magafgan Lupa Sowlehan Pakatowa Punuhan Panugangan EngHJh Lazy Lead Leak Leaft Lee Left Leg Lemon Lent Level Letter Liberal Life Lift Light Like Lime Line Little Liver Lock Loins Long Look Lord Love A man in love Louie Low Low water M Mad Maim Make Man A bad man Magindano Mapaog Timga Maelon Gabut Paedu Nean Abunghan Angin Bewan Botes Sua Paholaman Mapanty Sula Mura Moeug Sakuat Magan Magiklanikfan Banket Kulis Paedu Atiy Sow Dumulug Malundo Ely Datoo Limo Mali mo Kuttu Selon Pagerat fu-ig Mabunog Pali Maginang Tow Alub-ito A prejudiced man Makabinafa Mango Mango Many Marakal Mark Tanda Market Engli/h. Market Married A married perfon Mafk Matter Mat Matter Mate Medicine Melancholy Memory Mice Mid-day M id night Milk Million Mind Mine Mirth Milt Mifer Mi (take Mix Mob Modeft Moift Monkey Moon Month More To-morrow Day after tomorrow Mother Mountain Mouth Mourn Mud Multitude Murder My Myfelf Magindano. Parehan Karuma, alay Caluma PaglelubuA Edog Ekam Nana Piloto Gammot Lidu Makelintan Elaga Sinang Magabe Gattas Sagtos LafTa Quira quira Dulangan Panda la mot Tonog Mazingit Pakafalla Patinboon Makatepong Magkahoya Mawaffa Ubal Ulan-ulan Sa-ulan Tambapan A mag Amifandao Ina Booked Semud, nagali Pakrlarta Kilamun Marakal tow Pagbunwoot Cammoo Sakeefa Englifh N Nail Nails of the hand Naked Name Narration Navel Near Neck Need Neighbour Nephew or niece Neft, bird's Net New Night No Noife To make a noife Noon Nofe Nothing Now Nutmeg O Ocean Oar Oblidge Oil Once Open Oppofite Over the water Oven Our houfe Out Own Oyftcr P Pace Mangindano Lanfan Canucu Huba Balay Nallang Pugtalo PutTun Mafikun Leog Sydalla Kanakan Wally Paqui vatan Wally hyub Pukoot Bagoo Magabe Dele Safa Mepafa Sinang Elong Dalla Iudona Bunga palla Sakaloraa Pura Takow Lanna Amay Nabuka Salepug Salepug-ig Mageny Langoo Wally Salewan Sakki Teaba Mageny Paddle Englijb. Paddle Padlock Paid Pair Pale Paper Pardon Path Pay Pea Peaked hill Peck Pen People Perhaps Piece Petulant Pilot Pipe Pits Place Play Plenty Plump Poifon Pole Pork Pot Pout Pray Pregnant Pretty Prefence Prieft Pride Profit Publication Pulfe Purfe Put Magindano, Pura paedu Yawe Nebyran Satema Malufpan Pappel Ampoo Tambak Nabyran Kabbud * Utboon na booky Tufikan Pluma Tou Dekatowan Tigpnn Duaraka Piloto Koaku Ehe Tampat Pandalamot Marakal Malumbo Kabau Ufok Babuey Kulun Pagmudut Sumbayan Mabdos Mapia Arapan Pandita Maclbg Taban Capayagan Galac Pooio Efood Quay Queen Quick R Race Rag Rail Rank Rap Rafcal Rat Rear Reach Red Reed Reins Religion Red Revolution Ribs Rice Right Ring River Road Rob Robber Rock Roof Round Row Ruin Rub Run Ruft S Sack Sad Said Magindano, Cherotcho Potely, Sultana Gaan Pagalumba Malugbak Kural Mafela atow Binalan Mapadayo Elaga mafela Debias Ejondon Malega Palunng Unabin Agamat Pugtalaton Malembul Goofook Boogas Dele falla Ching ching Lowaflaig Tambak Matagkow Matagkown Wattoo Boobong Malimpulog Mamura Pakafalla Pahedan Palaguy Tuktuk Baloyot Mugkalero Puttalog Said EngHJh. A fail Saint Salt Same .Sat Savory Saw Say Scald Scale Scent Scold Scratch Sea fliore Middle of the fea Seat Secret See Seed Seek Send Sell Seven Shadow Shallow Shame Share Sharp Sheath Sheep Shelf Shell Shield Ship Short Shake Shelf Shout Shore Shower Shut Lyug Wali Timus Magifan rkfarf, Ungtod Macombu Elyka Fakfugid Myow Katehan Bahuka Pugialo mavata Kalot Kirin Kaludan Ink ud all Me ntul a Elyka Eteallum Pangelain Pugfogo-on Igpafla Petoo Aneno Kenutean Pugkahoya Bagean Maoon Tagoban Carntro Byan byan Opis Taming K appal Pababa I-Ioyong Karang Pagoloyan Dedfaan Pagulan Lokoban Sick Sigh Silk Silver Sin Sinner Sing Sink Sifter To fit down Six Skim Skin Sky Slack Slave Slain Sleep Slip Slow Smalleft Smell Smile Smoke Sneeze Soft Song Sorrow Sour South Sow Speak A great fpcaker Spear Spleen Sport Star Steal Steam Step Stiff B Magindano. Pugkafakki Pagenhowa Sutilla Pelak Duza Baladuza Pugfmgal Tagalum kafa ig Pagaly babye Ayan Anom Luma Upis Langit Pedeet Olepon Niatty Tulug Belakan Paghenyan Paedu kababaan Bahooun Maghebva A flu Huipon Makumok Magfenan Malcdo Madibm Sulatan Babueybabye Pugtalok Matumpis Belok Kumakop Pugtalamut Bituun Nakow Lumen Lakang Matugas Still 10 A V O C A B U L A R Y, Englijh. Still Stone Stop Street Stream Strike String Strong Stupid Suck Sugar Sum Sun Supple Sure Sweat Sweet Swelling Swift Swim Sword Swore Table Tale Tall Tart Tafte Tax Teach Tear Ten Tender Terrible Thank Thatch That Theft, There Thick petty Mangidano. Mangokuy Watoo Paguning Tambak Ig-mabangul Panlapad 1 Aibed Mabangul Bunugun Lapfak Aflukal Cuim Senang Nudftus Matadlong Hulas Ma tarn is Kalabuan Matulin Puglangy Sun dam Sumumpa Lamefa Magtalok Mapulu Mafulum Nanam Boifs Paganad Uturun Sanpoolu. Makumo Terribilis Salandu iaka Attop Inan Manabkoo Sukan Madamur Engliftj. Thin Third Thirty Thirft Thought Thoufand Thread Throat Thruft Thumb Tickle Timber I ire To Token Tongue Teeth Top Touch Town Tree Triangle True Turnip Two V Valour Veil Vein Verfe Vice Violin Virgin Uncle Under -Underftanding To underftand Magindans. Nepis Tulu Tulu poolu Makowhow Sam alow Sanlibu Bunang Bundongan* Alupun Komako Makattol Kahoy Utbong Mabodly Ka, kaia Tanda Dela Nipoon Bubu Puniutun Engwood Kahoe Tulu pefagt Matadlong Savonos Daua Mabagol Ampek Ugat Pantok Salla Dabel Bagutow Paqui ama Lallum Kalondoman Sabut EngHJh. Magindano. Vow Sumpa W Wages Bohes Wait Apa Wake Buat Waift Cafadan Wall Allud War Pugawy Weak Sakadiumat Weight Timbangang Well Pareget Weft Habagat Wet Nufafla Wheel Galengan When Undow Wherefore Enu Whence Andow Whip Pefee White Maputc Whole 6ateman Whore Mabega Wide Mulad Wife Kruma Will Muyog, Guinaua Wind Hangin, undu Wine Angor Wing Pah pak Wipe Pahedon Wildom Buloodon Woe Duraka Woman Babye Won Kataban Wood Kahuy Work Maghelan Worm A nay Wrath Mungalipungwood Write Mugfula Wrong Mugkafalla ° Y Year Salagun Yawn Daghoyab Yellow Madulow Young Bagutu Yes Wy Englijh. Magindano] Yefterday Kagy The day before yef- Kaga fandaao, terday A young perfon Pay dido A very young per-Paydidock fon Sunday Imat Monday Salaflk Tuefday Arba Wednefday Kamis Thurfday Diumat Friday Sapto Saturday Akad January Nayda FebruJy Nadii March Mocaram April Safar May Rabbil aval June Rabbil aver July Diumadil aval Augufl: September Diumadil aver Raddiab Oclober Saavan November Ramatan December Saaval North Utara South Salatan Eait Timor Welt Habagat N. E. Timor laut N. W. Burra laut S. E. Tungara s. w. Burra dyer 1 Ifa 2 Daua 3 Tulu 4 Apat 5 Lima 6 Anom 7 Petoo 8 Walu 9 Seaow 10 Sanpoolu EngHJh, .100 1000 10,000 Magindano. Sangalos Sanlibu San lax la glipj. 100,OCO i,oc 0,000 Magindano. San catty Sanpoolu catty A Few PAPUA WORDS. Ettgtijb. Papua. EngliJJj. Papua. God Wat Sagoe Bariam Devil Sytan Baked Sagoe Kium Yes I-o Gold Bulowan No Koba Silver Plat I lya Copper Ganetra You Sum Brafs Kafnar Fife Een A Fort Coto Fowl Moorlankeert A Houfe Rome Hog Ben A Country Nu Coconut Sery A Tree Kaibus Swallo Pemankaku , A River Warbiky A Man Sononman Water War A Woman Binn Salt Water Warmaflln A Slave Omin Sweet Water Warimaflin Have you any fifh Een Ifia To bathe Komafly Have you any por k Ben Ifm Fire For Don't be afraid Wam-kawar Hot Rob Don't come near Wadaberwakini A Hook Sofydine Pam Go Kower, Koabur A Net Will you trade Ofarabian To look, to fee Komamy Pearls Muftiqua An Ifland Mcofs Beads Fin fin A Hill Bon lion Ukanmom A Garden Yafkaman. Greens Cafl'uf Sand Yean An Ax Amkan . Cayen Pepper MariGn a Prong or chop- Sumber A Knife Enfy ping Knife • A A Mul- * In the bad weather we bad croffing the China Sea, I loft a lift of many words, clfe this would be more complete. Englifh. A Mufquet A Cannon A Plate A Bundle Large Small Long Short Flat Lean Papua. Piddy Piddybeba Ofo piring Tataf Beba Kihik Ekouan Ekouanba. Emafin Ebieba Large Cocklecalled Koyam by Malays Kima A Dog Naf A Cat Mow A Rat Py The Sun Rafs The Moon Pyik A Star Mak Dampier's Pid reon* Manipi Bird of Paradife Mandefor The Unicorn Fifh Een Ra A Ship, or large Cappall veffel A Canoe, or fmall Wy veffel A Bow Myay An Arrow Ekay An Oar Koboris A Paddle Pura A Sail Sawir Engli/h. A Maft A Rope An Anchor Limes Rice Sugar Canes Cloves Nutmeg Eaft Weft South North A Rajah, or King White Black ' Red One Two Three Four Fiv« Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Eleven One Hundred One Thoufand Papua. Padarin Kabry Yor Inkry Bira Cumman Chinky Samkow Waml'owy Umbaraick Wamrum Amurum Korano Pepoper Pyffin Fanadaik Ofer Serou Kior Tiak Rim Qnim Tik War Siou Samfoor Samfoor Ofer Samfoor Ootin Samfoor Ootin Samfoor * A large blue pidgeon, with beautiful feathers on its head, to be feen in many mufcums. Dampier gives a figure of it. The Papuas of Dory faid there were ban for, hills of fire, to the eaftward, but knew nothing of the names of Moa, Arimoa, or Iamna. Near thefe three iflands Commodore Roggcwein fays there is a Volcano. n. B. The Afterifk at page 206, refers to the word Coto Intang, in page 205. F I N I 5. DIRECTIONS FOR THE BOOK-BINDER, General Map, and View of Dory Harbour, to face Page i Plate A. View of the Iflands Karakita and Siao, — -, 30 N° 1. View of Ternate, Macquian, and the Giaritchas, — 34. — 2. View of Pulo Gag and Malaleo Harbour, i—— m. ^8 — 3. Plan of Biflbry Harbour and Flat Point, — m > jb. — 4. View of the Straits of Labuhat, ...... ■ . ... 5^ — 5. Plan of Selang, Sipfipa, and Offak Harbours, 82 *5- View from Frefh Water Bay, . 1 g£ — 6. View of the Iflands Gorongo and Pifang, ...... ^2 — 7. Map of Waygiou, Pitt's Straits, and View of the Iflands Gag and Gibby, 04 — 8. View of the Iflands Ruib, Batangpally, Pulo Een, and Pulo Bo, 126 — 9, View of the North Coaft of Waygiou, —— ■ jb. —■ 10. View of Rawak Harbour, and Part of Waygiou j —- 130 — 11. View of the Mountains of Arfak, on New Guinea,. -— 142 — 12. View of the Cape of Good Hope, on New Guinea, —— 150 — 13. Plan of Dory Harbour, 1 ■ ■ ■ 154. — 14. Dampier's Map collated, —-— .- 160 — 15. View of the Kanary Ifland3, ■ 1 , jm-j — 16. Drefs of the Papuas, to the eaftward of Dory, ■ ■ jb. mm 17. View on the Coaft of Magindano, and of the Ifland Kabruang, 184 — 18. Map of Bunwoot and Part of Magindano, ■ ■■— 200 — *j8. Map of Part of Magindano, from the River to Serangani, ib. — 19. Circular View from Bunwoot, ■-• — 222 — 20. View of Barrel Rock and Bunwoot,-- ■ ..— jb# — 21. Plan of Kamaladan Harbour, -•—— — 236 .,_ 22. Genealogical Tree of the Family of Magindano, —— ib. — 23. A Magindano Marriage, '-■ — 333. —. 24. Cinnamon leaves of Ceylon, 1 348 mm 25. Part of the N.E. Coaft of.Borneo, - - 350 — 26. Part of the N. W. Coaft of Borneo, ~ — — 27. Papua Oven and Opium Pipe, ■ ....... jb.