Narodna In unlverzitetna knjlinlca v LJubljani
IV 1 0635
71'. & /I
TRAVEL
THROUGH
THE  RHilTI AN
i n
THE YEAR MDCCLXXXVL
from
ITALY TO GERMANY, THROUGH TYROL
b y
ALB AN IS BEAUMONT,
IN   THE   SERVICE   OF   THE   KING   OF SARDINIA. the work is ornamented with
TEN LARGE AQUA-TINTA ENGRAVINGS,
FROM ORIGINAL DESIGNS, BY THE AUTHOR,
RELATIVE   TO   THE   PICTURESQUE   BEAUTIES   OF   THE MOST
INTERESTING VIEWS.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY C. CLARKE;
AND SOLD BY T. AND J. EGERTON, WHITEHALL}  SEWELL, IN CORNHILL j
AND HOOKHAM, IN BOND-STREET.
M DCC XC11,
S
ALPS,
T O
HIS   ROYAL HIGHNESS
PRINCE WILLIAM FREDERICK.
S I R,
Allow me to have the honour of laying this book, fuch as it is, at your Royal Highnefs's feet. Had I underftood the language of this country, as well as your Royal Highnefs under-ftands fome others, my book had, in one refpeft at leaft, required fewer apologies.
In the charadter of a dedicator, it may be expected, Sir, that I fhould enlarge upon your Royal Highnefs's virtues and your talents $ and upon the kind of man and of Prince which your countrymen are to fee, your Royal Highnefs become. But the fituation, which I have had the honour of filling, for fo many years, in your Royal Highnefs's illuftrious family, efledtually precludes me from any fuch language, whatever I may think. Your Royal Highnefs's countrymen will, undoubtedly, fbon have opportunities of judging for themfelves. My own opinion I know well; and I am fure my conftant prayer is, that this country, as well as others, may find every occafion to form an opinion of your Royal Highnefs no lefs high, than that which is entertained by him, who has the honour to be, with the moll profound refpedt,
SIR,
Your Royal Highnefs's Moft devoted and
Moft obedient humble Servant,
Albanis Beaumont.
Park-Street. May, 1792.
INTRODUCTION.
Th E ftudy of geology, or the theory of the earth, feems to be one of the moft natural delights of the human mind. It is not therefore fuprizing that it fhould intereft fo many of our men of fcience, and excite the refearches of the greateft part of our ingenious travellers. One cannot then blame a perfon who, in the idea of having collected in the courfe of feveral years, in various parts of Europe, fome obfervations and remarks, fhould prefent them to the public, with a defire of being ufeful to fociety; pointing out fafts that may have efcaped the notice of fbme, who probably have vifited the very fpots which he is now going to defcribe ; and alfo indicating to men much more enlightened than himfelf new objects that might be worthy their attention.
It is with this view folely that the author prefumes to offer this feeble produce of his obfervations to all admirers of natural hiftory, carefully defcribing whatever attracted his notice, not omitting at the fame time to mention whatever might be of fervice to thofe who are more verfed in lithology and mineralogy than he is.
The theory of the earth, taken in its fulleft extent, opens a field much too extenfive to render the obfervations of an individual fufficient clearly to explain the caufe of the various changes and revolutions that our globe has experienced fince the firft aera of its exiftence, as alfo what relates to the atmofphere, the formation of its continents, the principal origin of the primitive and fecondary mountains, Sec.    It therefore appears, that notwithftandhig the numberlefs hypothefes which have been tranfmitted to pofierity, and the various conjectures advanced by the moft eminent naturalifts of our time, there will ftill remain obftacles to prevent any one's proceeding with certainty in this laborious and wide purfuit, without a thorough knowledge of every part that conftitutes the globe; and, as the formation of the primitive mountains, which, according to all appearance, are its moft ancient monuments, remains ftill undecided by the ableft among our naturalifts, nothing effectual can be determined till that important point fliall be afcertained, viz. whether thofe enormous pyramids of granite have been formed by chryftallization or precipitation ?   That queftion muft however remain unanfwered till thofe great and wonderful primordial chains, which crofs our globe, have been properly inveftigated in every direction, their extent certified, and alfo the exact diftances between the mountains of the firft, fecond, and third order, with their refpective heights, their inclination, &c.   But, as I have already obferved, the undertaking would not only be too hazardous, but impoffible for any fingle perfon to attempt.   It is greatly to be lamented that our naturalifts, as well as other well-informed travellers, have not been tempted to favour the public with the obfervations and remarks that have occurred to them in the different parts of the world they have vifited.    This idea has already been fuggefted by Mr. Deodat de Dolomieu, in his difcourfe read to the Society of Natural Hiftory at Paris, the 29th of July, 1791.   See Le Journal de Phyfique de Monfieur de
b la
vi
INTRODUCTION.
laMetherie, Octobre, 1791, p. 310. Such publications would not only prevent much trouble, but obviate innumerable difficulties, and throw frefh light on a fubjed of the greateft confequence to every naturalift.
The author, confiding partly in a probability of the fuccefs of his new project, and partly in the goodnefs of the public, ventures to lay before them fome obfervations made in the year 1786, when he was in the fuite, as he has the honour to be ftill, of his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Glouccfter.
He flatters himfelf that if his remarks mould not be fortunate enough to intereft as much as he could wifli, they may however be the means of inducing fome men of genius to vifit that part of Germany, which is really worth the attention of the firft naturalifts in any nation.
The author alfo may be thought by many to have been too luxuriant in his defcription of the mildnefs and humanity of the inhabitants of Tyrol; as likewife in his account of the fertility of their foil, their induftry, hofpitality, &c. It is however difficult for one who is naturally led to admire the fociety of virtuous men, in whatever ftate he finds them, to check the fentiments of happinefs and admiration, which he experiences at the fight of man in his primitive ftate, untainted by vice.
The author entreats the indulgence of his readers, if he mould now and then overleap the bounds he has prefcribed, and find himfelf enraptured at the fight of a cafcade, or a mountain covered with fnow, whofe hoary fummit lofes itfelf in the clouds, or, perhaps, on the threfhold of an humble cottage, while its poor, but honeft, inhabitants, are chearfully fblacing themfclves with their family, and recounting, after a hard day's labour, the fatigues they have undergone. The firft inftance prcfented to the author's imagination every thing majeftic and fublime, and of courfe elevated his ideas. The latter naturally reminded him of the inhabitants of the High Alps, not far diftant from mount Blanc, where he was born. For the author is well enough acquainted with Engliih literature to apply to his country, and his countrymen in general, the ftriking lines which Goldfmith addrefTed to his brother:
" Where'er I roam, whatever realms to fee, " My heart, untravell'd, fondly turns to thee : *' Still to my country turns, with ceafelefs pain, 64 And drags, at each remove, a lengthening chain.'*
Traveller, line 7.
On the whole, if his remarks arc fo fortunate as to intereft his readers, and they feel the fame degree of pleafure at the recital of his obfervations, as he experienced in collecting them, and ftudying the laws, character, and manners of the inhabitants, he will be amply gratified in the fuccefs of his undertaking.
In the Engravings prefixed to this work the author is indebted to Colonel Plcydel for three of the views taken by that gentleman, who has been fo obliging as to allow him to copy them.   The reft, with the Chart, 6cc. were drawn by himfelf on the fpot.
CONTENTS,
CONTENTS.
section l
Departure from venice—general observations on its origin and form of government—view of the high chain of mountains situated north east of the gulph of venice—arrival at padua .................................................................................................................................... page ,
section ii.
observations on padua, as also on its origin, its form of government, and the manners of the inhabitants— departure from that city, with some remarks on the natural history of the different places situated between padua and verona —description of verona ............................................................................................................................ „
section iii.
departure from verona-*barrier of the county of tyrol, near rocca pia —description of the valley of trent and mount baldo— arrival at trent ............................ *5
section iv.
remarks on the origin and form of government of the bishopric of trent—departure from that city—description of its environs—general observations on the secondary chain of the alps, connected with the route from trent to botzen—arrival at botzen ........................................................................ft.......................................................... 23
section v.
departure from botzen, or bolsano—arrival at the city of brixen, which is the capital of that bishopric—general observations on its form of government-description of the primitive mountains connected with the road from botzen to sterzing—ascent of mount brenner ........................................................................................................ 41
section vi.
description of the environs of the city of sterzing, and of the vallies ridnaun and pflerscher —excursion to the great glacier of stuben —its elevation above the level of the sea —passage across the brenner — height of that mountain —arrival at steinach ............................................................................................................................ 50
section
via
CONTENTS.
SECTION VII.
departure from steinach —arrival at inspruck— general observations on the origin and form of government of the county of tyrol—description of that country —its extent, mountains, and different productions — remarks on the manners and customs of the tyrolese .................................m................................................................. page 59
SECTION VIIL
continuation of the form of the tyrolese government—description of inspruck
and the extensive valley of inn....................................................................................................................... 68
S E C T I O N IX.
departure from inspruck — description of the mines at nassereit— barrier of tyrol—arrival at fussen, in swabia................................................................................................................ JS
travels
TRAVEL
THROUGH
THE     RH^TIAN ALPS,
&c. &c. &c.
SECTION I.
departure from venice — general observations on its origin and form of government—view of the high chain of mountains situated north east of the gulf of venice — arrival at padua.
We left Venice the 26th of May, one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-fix, foon after the celebration of the famous ceremony, in which the Doge annually efpoufes the fea, at two miles diftance from the city, by calling into it a ring, with thefe words, " I espouse thee in token of perpetual dominion." This is a day which the Venetians fet apart as one of their greateft feftivals, iince it commemorates that glorious epoch when this Republic proved vifi-orious both by land and fea, and when moft of the potentates of Europe were compelled to acknowledge her fovereign of the feas.
This noble privilege was confirmed to them in the twelfth century by Pope Alexander the Third, who inftituted this ceremony, which is ftill attended with all the fplendour and magnificence imaginable.
I shall not dwell any longer on a ceremony that has already been fo well defcribed by various travellers, who have publifhed their obfervations on the beauties and cuftoms
of Italy.
This city, according to its epithet, Venice the Rich, once furpafTed in wealth all the cities of Europe, and muft inevitably attract the attention of travellers; not only by its wonderful fituation and ancient origin, but by the magnificence of its churches, palaces, &c.
A Venice
Venice appears, from the continent, rifing majeftically out of the fea, whofe fury me feems to brave, as formerly her ancient inhabitants braved the fury of Atila, king of the Huns, and the tyranny of thofe barbarians, who at that time fubdued all Italy : and it was entirely to the dread of falling into their power that Venice owed its liberty.
The Germans, the Gauls, and the different nations of Italy, had felt the dreadful effects of the ferocity of thofe barbarians: even the great and famous city of Rome was befieged; when in the fifth century the people of Hcneti, or Vencti, unable of thcmfelves to refift the calamities that awaited them, forfook their peaceable habitations, and, as an afylum, retired to a clutter of fmall iflands, fituated at the extremity of the Gulf of Venice, in the middle of {hallows.   They immediately conftructed a few huts, by way of a temporary refidence; and, at laft, after feveral fruitlefs efforts to return into their country, they there determined to fix their refidence.    On this fpot is built the ancient city of Venice.   Thofe families, however, whom the love of liberty had united, finding it would be impoflible to contend againft their enemies, who would in all probability foon purfue them ; as alfo againft the element that furrounded them, without the greateft unanimity and harmony among themfelves, refolved on cftablifhing fome form of government—a ftriking inftance of the neccffity of enacting laws to maintain order in a rifing ftate; which, without fuch fupport, would be in danger of falling into anarchy and confufion.
The firft form of government this people chofe for themfelves was a kind of democracy. Each of the fmall iflands which compofed this infant ftate, agreed to appoint a judge, or magiftrate (by them called Tribune), who fhould adminifter juftice in his department, where he was looked up to as chief, and elected annually. He was, however, compelled to give a proper account of his adminiftration to the general afiembly, before his fucceffor could be appointed.    (Sec the Fliftory of Venice by the Abbe L'Augier.)
The wliulc country of Italy having been invaded by the Huns, the Vandals, the Herulcs, and the Oftrogoths, prefented a pitiable and diftrcfling fcenc : Venice, alone and unprotected, remained tranquil in the midft of all thofe ftorms, enjoying peaceably the happinefs which flic derived from her liberty, induftry, and commerce; even giving protection to the mifefable and wretched victims of tyranny, whofe fortunes had fallen into the hands of their enemies.
This happinefs and tranquillity were not of long duration ; for the Republic, which was not only refpected, but feared by the ufurpers of the Gauls and the Italians, became an object of envy, and was attacked at the end of the fifth century by another horde of barbarians, full as ferocious as thofe I have already mentioned. They were inhabitants of the frozen regions of Scythia : who, having made themfelves matters of Iftria, Carinthia, and Dalmatia, not even fatisficd with thofe conquefts, determined on beficging Venice;
but,
but, prefuming too much on their fuccefs, became negligent, and were defeated, though not without confiderable lofs to the Republic, whofe watchful cares and expen-iive preparations had coft them immenfe fums.
Those barbarians, who were as bold as they were enterprifing, were not intimidated by this repulfe, but kept continually harafling them; and, by repeated attacks, obliged them to be inceiTantly on the watch. Thus terminated the firft epoch of their tranquillity.
These, however, were not the greateft difficulties with which this rifing ftate had to contend ; for it was nourishing, unknowingly, within itfelf evils which proved in the end much more formidable. Finding an abfolute neceflity of encouraging trade, they were obliged to ufe every means that might attract ftrangers to fettle among them. Unfortunately thofe emigrants, by introducing all kinds of luxury, ambition, and fraud, contaminated the manners of this happy but fimple people ; for, foon after, the office of tribune (or chief magiftrate). could only be attained by the moft fordid means.
During thofe cabals and intrigues, Venice was verging towards her ruin, which would in all probability have been foon completed, had not one virtuous man been found to ftcm the torrent. In the midft of a general aflembiy, which had met to deliberate on the alarming proipecr of affairs, he dared to ftand forward and propofe to the Venetians to chufe from among themfelves a perfon on whom they could depend for their chief, as the only method of re-eftablifhing them in their former tranquillity.
This man, to whom they were indebted for their prefervation, was the brave and virtuous Grado. His plan being adopted, Paul Luke Anafefta, citizen of Heraclee (a man univerfally efteemed), was elected in 6Q7, and was the firft who bore the title of DUKE, whirh was foon after changed to that of DOGE. Here ends their firft form of government, which had exifted two hundred years.
The Venetians, under the new form of government (which was a kind of monarchy) renamed their former courage, that had lain dormant for a length of time, and no longer kept themfelves on the defenfive, but vigoroufly attacked their enemies, even in their own country, and returned victorious.
The Lombards were amongft thofe who felt the effects of their valour: but then it was that the Venetians became cruel and vindictive, and that thofe who governed them frequently fell a facrifice to their growing ambition—A melancholy picture of the frailty of human nature !
The right of fuccefTion to the dignity of Doge was not made hereditary till the reign of the feventh Doge, which was in the eighth century, and lafted but a fhort time. Even during that period, the fucceflion was not only contefted, but divided between two families, each enjoying that dignity alternately, which nearly occafioned
the
the overthrow of the Republic. Nevcrthelefs Venice, which had at laft by her prudence triumphed over the intrigues and ambition of the factions, was on the point of falling a victim to the anger of Pepin, fon to Charlemagne, king of France.
This afpiring prince, defirous of rendering himfelf maftcr of Dalmatia, ufed every effort to perfuade the Venetians to afiift him ; but neither threats or entreaties could prevail on a people who were generally faithful to their allies, to engage in a war that appeared to them unjuft. Their refufal enraged this ambitious monarch : he immediately commenced hoftilities againft them; and they would moft probably have been great fufFerers by this invafion, had it not been for the unfkilfulnefs of his admirals, who, not being properly acquainted with the fhallows, lagunes, &c. that nearly furround Venice, led the fleet incautioufly where their ruin was inevitable.
The troops of Pepin loft confiderable numbers of their braveft warriors, and the remainder betook themfelves to an ignominious flight.
FIowever, fome time after this fortunate efcape of the Venetians, it was concluded in a treaty made by Charlemagne in 802 with Nicephorus, Emperor of the Eaft, that Venice fhould be confidered as forming part of that empire. This favourable event reftorcd to them the bleflings of peace ; a blcfling of which they had long been deprived.
Venice, notwithftanding all thofe checks, continued in an improving ftate; and, towards the eighth century, attracted the envy and attention of moft of the fovereigns or Europe; not only by her power, but her riches. Flappy refult of indefatigable induftry !
They were alfo greatly indebted to the Doge Pnrticipatio, who was happy in promoting every meainre thar could tend to the fervice of the. Republic. To him it owes its greateft importance ; for, under his propitious reign, which InftrH right-pen years, the improvements were incredible. He joined, by feveral bridges, the cluftcr of fmall iflands, to the number of fixty, that now forms the greateft part of the city of Venice, which is at prefent compofed of one hundred and thirty-eight iflands, though moft of them are more indebted to art than nature. There arc four hundred and fifty bridges, and the circumference of the town is nearly fix Englifh miles. Its population at the time of the Doge Participatio was about fixty-two thoufand inhabitants, but it is now increafed to two hundred thoufand.
Although Venice had rifen to fuch a ftate of importance, yet the Republic was frequently involved in oppreflive wars, not only with the Narcntians, the Dalmatians, and the Saracens, but alfo againft the Hongres, or Hungarians, who likewife came from Scythia. Thofe people, who added ferocity to their courage, at firft gained great advantages over the Venetians; but the latter, from their fteadinefs and well-directed manoeuvres, at laft regained what they had loft, by beating their enemies completely,
pletely, and obliging them to abandon the Gulf of Venice, and leave them undif-puted poffeffors of the Adriatic fea.
The Hungarians, finding themfelves entirely defeated, retired and fettled in Pannonia. In this fituation, between alternate fuccefs and lofies, the Republic ftill extended her dominions, and kept within herfelf a fund of wealth, accumulated by trade and conquefts. But alas! that wealth was partly the caufe of her ruin ; which muft be the natural confequence in every ftate where opulence admits luxury, with all its dangerous attendants; for its inhabitants foon felt the fatal effects which arofe from the caufes beforementioned.
Towards the twelfth century the government (which had, fince the election of the Doge, been chiefly monarchical) was again changed ; owing to a feries of events, the enumeration of which would carry me too far. I fhall only ftate that the Venetians, like many other nations, afcribing the misfortunes which had befallen the Republic to their chief, affaulted the Doge, and affaffinated him in his palace.
Many of the ambitious and intriguing citizens, taking advantage of the Interregnum, propofed a new form of government. There only remained of the former, a council, confiding of forty magiftrates, called Quarantia, which had been cftablifhed to judge all civil and criminal caufes. This tribunal forms the bafis of their prefent government, which is ariftocraticaL
The council being aflembled, it was decided that annually on Michaelmas Day, the city being divided into fix diftricts, each of thefe diftricts fhould name two electors; and that the twelve together fhould be impowered to chufe indifcriminately among the citizens four hundred and feventy members^ which were to form the grand council.
The council of Quarantia, however, not fatisfied with the fuccefs of this firft decifion, determined that eleven commiflaries fhould be appointed from among the moft refpect-able pcrfons of the ftate, to chufe a Doge by ballot; and that the perfon who fhould have a majority of nine votes out of eleven fhould be elected. Thus were the people led blindly to acquiefce in the lofs of their rights.
They again proceeded to a third decree, viz. That the grand council fhould nominate annually fix counfellors, one out of each diftrict, who were to form a privy council \ and without whofe advice the Doge could not give his aflent to any act relating to the ftate. Here end the rights of the people and the power of the Doge!
The Senate, or Pregadi, was afterwards formed, confifting of fixty members of the grand council, by whom all ftate affairs were tranfacted.
This new form of government terminated the troubles which at that time afflicted the Republic, and Venice rofe again to her higheft pinnacle of glory. It was then that her fleets and armies, victorious both by fea and land, entirely defeated thofe of the Emperor
B Frederick
Frederick the Firft, furnamed Barbaroffa, who had boafted of the certainty of placing the Imperial arms on the gates of St. Mark.
That famous victory gave rife to the extraordinary ceremony of the efpoufals of the Doge with the Sea, which has been already mentioned.
The apparent tranquillity which the Republic enjoyed was not fo permanent as at firft it promifed to be; for the people began, although late, to find that their liberty had been facrificed to the ambition of the Great.
They even made feveral attempts to overthrow the new form of government, but without fuccefs; for thofe who were in power ufed every art to render their fchemes ineffectual. One of the moft alarming confpiracies againft the State, which occafioned the death of a vaft number of citizens, headed by Bajamont Thiepolo, happened the 15th of June, 1310; and the Senate, in commemoration of its efcape, inftituted an annual feftival.
The danger to which the Republic had been expofcd, determined the council of Quarantia to appoint a certain number of Judges, called Inquifitors of State ; which foon after compofed that formidable Council called Di Died, or Ten ; a tribunal as powerful as it is now dreadful to the Venetians.
Another attempt againft the Senate, which was as unfuccefsful as that in 1310, took place the 15th of April, 1355, in which the Doge, being at the head of the Revolters, was foon after beheaded by a decree of the Senate.
I shall not expatiate on the difturbances that for fome time afflicted the Republic; fearing that I have already, by this digreflion, fatigued my readers.
Those internal Commotions did not, however, prevent Venice from maintaining her profperity and grandeur; for, towards the fourteenth century, the Venetians took the city of Padua from Francis the Second, Count of Carrare; caufing him and his two fons to be ignominioufly put to death in the prifon of St. Mark: which was one of their firft fteps towards defpotifm; as they not only violated the rights of Sovereigns, but added cruelty to injuftice.
In the fixteenth century the power of the Republic had fufficicntly increafed to enable her to contend againft the forces of Spain, France, Auftria, and the Porte. It would probably have continued in this flourifhing ftate, which was entirely owing to the prudence of the Senate and its profound policy, had it not been for the lofs of the greateft part of their Trade; occafioned by the difcovery, which the Portugucfe had made, of the paffage to the Eaft Indies by the Cape of Good Hope. That lofs was moft forcibly felt by the Republic: for many of the Sovereigns of Europe, equally jealous of the advantages arifing from fuch a difcovery, immediately followed the example of the Portugucfe, and of courfe loft the Venetians a fource of treafurc which was of the greateft importance to them.
I shall
I shall not enter on the various events and changes which have befallen the Republic, fince the fixteenth century, as the whole is particularly defcribed by L'Abbe St. Real, in his Hiftory of Venice: I will only add, that the actual form of government has been fubject to few changes, fince the time beforementioned.
The fupreme authority, as the Doge is merely an empty title without any princely power, is vefted in the hands of the nobles, to the number of nearly thirteen hundred, whofe names are inferibed at their birth, in a book called the Libro Doro, in imitation of the Athenians: with this difference, that at Athens every citizen was obliged to inferibe the name of his children.
At Venice the nobles may be divided into three diftinct claffes, the firft is compofed of families whom they call electoral, on account of their being the defcendants of thofe who elected the firft Doge in 697. They are looked upon as the moft ancient in Europe, as Voltaire has juftly obferved.
The fecond owe their origin to the families who afterwards formed the great council; and the third are the defcendants of thofe citizens who, at the time that the State was in urgent diftrefs, purchafed their title of nobility for the fum of one hundred and
twenty Venetian ducats.
Those different claffes are not permitted to enter into the fervice of any foreign power, or allowed to receive from them any mark of diftinction.
The fenate is at prefent compofed of three hundred members of the great council, who confult upon the moft fecret and important affairs of the Republic.
In the adminiftration of government is included the college compofed of the nine Procurators of St. Mark, the Doge's fix counfellors, the cenfors, the judges of the council of Quarantia, and other magiftrates for the adminiftration of juftice, &c.
Next to the fenate, the tribunal of the greateft importance, is the college where audience is given to foreign minifters, and where all external affairs are tranfacted. It is compofed of the Doge, his fix counfellors, three fenior judges of the council of Quarantia, and fixteen other magiftrates or commiffaries.
The higheft dignity, next to the Doge, is the Procurator of St. Mark: and the moft formidable tribunal is the council of Ten; its power is very extenfive. The three chief judges of that council (who are called Inquifitors of State) are chofen by election. They pay the greateft attention to maintaining order, and preventing cabals, Sec. againft the ftate. They alfo protect the citizens againft the opprcflion of the nobles. Much more might be faid on their form of government, which is greatly indebted for its permanency to the prudence of the Senate, and the rigor with which the council of Ten and the inquifitors enforce fuch punifliments as they direct. But, fince this abridgment is only intended to give the traveller an idea of the origin and conftitution of that ancient Republic, it would be needlefs to enlarge on the fubject.
That
I cannot, however, quit Venice without giving a fketch of the character of the moft numerous part of its Inhabitants; who, though not ennobled by birth or purchafe, have retained in their manners fome remains of the warlike fpirit and heroic deeds of their anceftors.
They may alfo be divided into three claffes; the firft (being the moft opulent) comprehend the bankers and the merchants; the fecond, the mechanics; and the third, the gondoliers; who are by far the moft numerous, and moft deferving the attention of an inquifitive traveller; as they have in particular retained much of the ancient fimplicity in their manners and cuftoms.
The name of gondolier is given at Venice to thofe who conduct, in the channels or lagunes the gondolas, which are a kind of boat, ingenioufly contrived, and very light: they may be hired by the hour or by the day, on reafonable terms.
Those people, owing to their extreme honefty, and entire attachment to the patricians, whom they ferve, are treated by the State with great indulgence.
They are robuft, and remarkably well made; and much admired for their agility and vivacity. They are not inftructed; neither would the State wifh to promote their improvement: but their natural gaiety, affifted by an excellent memory and quicknefs of repartee, renders their converfation interefting.
They are alfo the only clafs of people among the Italians who, like them, owe their origin to the Greeks, and have preferved fome remains of that illuftrious nation. Like them, they encourage the fame degree of emulation by various feats of activity.
They have, on all public rejoicings what the Englifh term a rowing match, by them called Regatta. The principle characters of the Republic countenance this entertainment, by fixing the prize due to the conqueror; which, though trifling in itfelf, is more than fufficient to fatisfy this honeft clafs of people.
I must not pafs unnoticed an amufement which they have among themfelves, which is not only Angular, but muft naturally create aftonifliment to every ftranger that viflts Venice. They offer a reward to him who is capable of reciting the greateft number of verfes from Ariosto or Tasso ; and many, although they cannot read, are capable of finging moft part of Gerusalemme Liberata. It is when feated at the ftern, and refting on their oars, the boat gliding gently on, that they make the palaces which border the lagunes refound with the harmonious verfes of their Homer.
I have been led to fay more on the origin and government of Venice than I fhould otherwife have done, had the fituation of that city been as favourable for the obfervations of a Naturalift as others of which I fhall have occafion to fpeak.
The geologift will do well to examine the coaft, from the mouth of the Po to the gulf of the Trieste, and he will find many objects worth his attention. He will alfo perceive that whole extent of that coaft, and for five or fix miles in the interior part
of
of the country, are encroachments made in the fea by a quantity of earth, pebbles, and gravel, which have been carried, in the courfe of feveral centuries, by the moft confiderable rivers of Italy, that difcharge themfelves in the gulf, and may in time fill up the lagunes.
All thofe rivers defcend from the Alps, viz. Padus the Po, Athefis or Adige, Meduacus Major or Brenta, Meduacus Minor or Bacchiglione, Tiliaventum or Tajamento, Lignentia or Livenza, Silis or Sile, Aneffus or Piave.
Those rivers, during the melting of the fnow, carrying with them, as I have already obferved, an immenfe quantity of earth, &c. from the primitive and fecondary mountains, are forced to depofit that earth on the coaft, on account of the refiftance it meets with from the fea. They have alfo been, without doubt, the original caufe of the land-bank that nearly feparates Venice from the gulf, and which is called the Lido, about thirty-eight or forty miles in extent, refembling the firing of a bent bow, fuppofing the latter to be the continent.
Many Italian authors, and particularly Gianotti tells us, that formerly the city of Venice was ten miles from the continent; for Oriago, or Oralacus, which is now five miles from Lizza FufTnia, where they take boat for Venice, was at that time lying upon the more of the lagune.    And what confirmed me ftill more in his opinion, was fome obfervations I was led to make on that fpot.
Having a curiofity to afcertain the different ftrata of the earth, I was let down into a kind of well or pit which they were digging between Lizza Fuffina and Oriago: the entrance being wide, and the depth about twenty feet, I could with great eafe make my obfervations, particularly as the earth in that place was cut perpendicularly under the ftratum : I remarked that the ftrata inclined towards the fea (forming an angle of fifteen degrees and a half). I reckoned fifteen perfectly diftinct, and was convinced that they were formed of the different decompofitions of the primitive and fecondary mountains, and that the fediments were not placed according to their gravity; for there were ftrata compofed of fmall ftones, called Gallet, mixed with pieces of granite, quartz, fchift, and a peculiar kind of calcarious ftone, which I fhall fpeak of hereafter, forming a bed at two thirds of the height of the pit, thirteen inches in thicknefs, entirely fupported by different ftrata of fand.
The grain of one of them was particularly fine, mixed with particles of mica and granite, intermixed with maritime and fluviatic fhells, which formed the feventh ftrata, and is a clear proof that the fea formerly overflowed that country: but as the vegetable earth was nearly eleven inches in thicknefs, we may naturally fuppofe that it has been in its prefent ftate for many centuries.
It is to be wiihed that fuch obfervations could be followed with fome degree of
C accuracy,
accuracy, in feveral places round the coaft, as it would certainly be of infinite fervice in the ftudy of geology.
Lizza Fussina is a fmall village, feated on the coaft, near the mouth of the river Brenta, five miles from Venice. Although there are not many houfes, and its fituation is at the extremity of a plain leading towards Padua, it is neverthelefs very interefting, having an extenfive view of the high chain of mountains that nearly furround the Adriatic fea.
On the north are fituated the Rhzctian Alps, which lofe themfelves among the chain of mountains that crofs the country of the Grifons.
Opposite, and in a direct line, are thofe of Friuli, whofe fummits are always covered with fnow: they join thofe of Carniola and Iftria, which appear loft in the horizon.
That vaft chain of mountains, which has near one hundred leagues in extent, is neverthelefs but a fmall part of the Alps, and not much known by our Naturalifts, although worthy of being inveftigated.
The Mediterranean is well known to have but little flux and reflux ; it is however felt in fome degree at the extremity of the Gulf; fince the tide frequently rifes upwards of three feet; and thofe effects happen nearly at the fame hour on the coaft of Spain, in the Bay of Bifcay, under the fame latitude, though in a much higher degree.
The Botanift will find, not only in the fmall iflands which furround Venice, but alfo on the coaft, and on the banks of the river Brenta, feveral beautiful and curious plants, which will merit a place in his Herbal: among others, according to Linnaeus's fyftem, " The Clematis Maritima, Antirrhinum Linifolium, Antirrhinum Purpureum, Xeran-themum Orientale, Salvia Sclarea, Rumex, Divaricatus, Sedum Anacampferos," &c. There are alfo on the coaft feveral curious fhells of the univalve and bivalve order.
We left Lizza Fuffma at noon, and were towed up the river Brenta to Padua, where we arrived in the evening.
The banks of the river are beautiful, affording the moft pleafing and interefting views: fomctimes it is feen meandring acrofs fertile and extenfive meadows, enamelled with flowers, and covered with cattle. In other places it appears as loft, being concealed by tufts of trees, which cover it from fide to fide, forming a delightful arbour.
There are alfo feveral beautiful villas and rich farms, which give the traveller at firft fight a favourable idea of the happinefs of a people who live under a peaceable government, although unfortunately too jealous of its authority, acting frequently in a tyrannical manner to thofe who dare divulge too freely their fentiments on the Conftitution of the Republic.
SECTION
section ii.
observations on padua, as  also on its origin, its  form of government, and the manners  of   the   inhabitants — departure   from   that   city,   with some remarks on the  natural history of the different places situated between padua and verona — description of verona.
T^HE charming and fertile meadows that are watered by the Brenta (which I have already mentioned in Seel:. I.) are but a fmall part of the immenfe plain which forms the province of Padua. It is bounded on the fouth by the Euganian hills, and on the north by the low chain of the Trevelian mountains.
These laft, viewed from the environs of Padua, appear as if placed artfully by nature, in nrder tn relieve the eye from a continual fcene of the frozen fummits of the Tridentinas Alps, always covered with mow. The effect is wonderfully pleafing; for the Trevelian mountains being not only cultivated, but wooded to the top, conceal by thofe means the bafe of the retiring mountains, and throw that equivocal veil over them in which the eye fo much delights; forming a contraft fo harmonioufly blended, that, on a fine fummer's day, it exhibits one of the moft beautiful and piccurefque landfcapes imaginable.
Nature feems to have been particularly propitious to the inhabitants of this country, in enriching their foil, and furnifhing them with every means of becoming refpectable by their induftry and commerce.
Several large and navigable rivers crofs this province, as it were to invite its inhabitants to imitate other opulent nations, in taking advantage of their defirable and enviable fituation, to export into foreign countries the produce of their induftry, and the fuperfluities of their home confumption. But alasl the natural indolence of the people, and their want of energy, which are but too much countenanced by the carelefT-nefs and inattention of government, naturally prevent them from reaping thofe advantages which would inevitably arife from their beautiful iituation.
I would not wifh to be underftood that the foil does not already produce vaft quantities of grain, filk, Sec.; but that produce would be infinitely increafed were the erection of manufactories more encouraged; for at prefent there are but few, although the country is capable of admitting a vaft number.
If
If government would but diminifh that great difparity which cxifls between the nobles and the citizens, and at the fame time encourage trade, reward induftry, and diftinguifh merit, it would foon be perceived that the provinces of Padua, Vicenza, and Verona, would no longer contain the number of vagrants and worthlefs beings that continually infeft every corner of thofe cities, and whichj of courfe, is the caufe of fuch frequent affaffmations.
I must, however, do juftice to the government of Venice, and acknowledge, that, within thefe few years, the profperity and happinefs of the people have been more attended to, and the inhabitants lefs oppreffed by immoderate taxes.
The nobles alfo treat their vafials with greater lenity and indulgence than formerly; and they begin to be convinced that virtuous and induftrious fubjects tend more towards the profperity of a ftate, than the accumulated treafures of St. Mark, or even whole armies formed of fcrvile and debilitated Haves.
That the wealth and profperity of a ftate naturally increafe, in proportion as the poverty and indolence of each individual diminifh, is, at prefent, I believe, a truth univerfally acknowledged.
Win ck elm an, in his Hiftoirc de l'Art chez les Ancicns, chap, i. feci. iii. after having demonftrated that different climates influence the texture and features of the human body, adds, that " they alfo affect their morals and their natural genius; which, (< of courfe, muft have the fame effect, on their activity and induftry." He has juftly obferved, that C£ thofe two laft qualities, as well as their cuftoms and manners, depend " in a great meafure on the form of government under which they live."
I am, therefore, not fearful of afferting, that this people, as well as moft of the inhabitants of Italy, who have fo great a {hare of natural genius, and in general fo little erudition, fo much good-humour and hofpitality, and are at the fame time fo choleric and vindictive, are capable, by proper management, of equalling, or probably furpafling, many of the European nations, were their form of government better adapted to their natural character.
If thofe who are at the head of the different States of which Italy is compofed, would but correct the numberlefs errors and abufes which have crept into their different forms of government, and enforce the laws which are eftabliihed for punifhing the guilty, without diftindion; as alfo by abolifhing thofe afylums that ferve as a kind of fupport to the frequent acts of cruelty and murder which are fo common in many parts of Italy; were they to encourage merit by fome mark of diftinction, and reward the individual who might be induced to propofe any plan which would be of fervice to the State ;   or erect manufactories to keep the lower clafs of people continually
employed ;
employed; then might we hope to fee thofe different States occupy that rank which nature feems to have allotted for them among the different powers of Europe.
I must, however, allow that fome of thofe Sovereigns have already begun to contribute considerably to the Welfare of their fubjecls, by their new and judicious regulations, in the adminiftration of juftice, by the defire of having their people properly inftru&ed, and by offering every encouragement to merit and induftry.
His Sardinian Majefty and the grand Duke of Tufcany are convincing proofs of this affertion : and it were greatly to be wifhed that their examples were followed by the reft of the Italian Princes.
The city of Padua, or Patavium, is of great antiquity, as it can boaft of being prior to Rome, whom fhe frequently affifted in the wars which that Republic had againft the Boii, the Senones, and the Cenomani.
Many hiftorians, and among others Livy, who was born in that city, affirm that it was founded by Antenor, a Trojan Prince, after the deftruction of Troy, four hundred and thirty-nine years before the city of Rome; which is alfo confirmed by Martial, when he addreffes himfelf to Valerius Flaccus, a poet, and native of Padua, in thefe words, cc Antenorei/pes &> alumne laris".. . . But nothing can be more erroneous than that affertion, fince there is every reafon to believe that it was founded by a King of Veneti, named Patavinus, as I am going to relate.
When the Illyrean colonies, which may be divided into three different bodies, viz. the Lyburnians, the Syculians, and the Heneti or Veneti, fled from Greece to eftablifh themfelves in Italy; the Lyburnians were the firft who (as many authors report) entered the country of Carniola, and Friuli; but, being repulfed by the Euganians, they fheltered themfelves in that part of Italy which was afterwards called Magna Graxia, and which now forms the kingdom of Naples, &c.
The fecond body, which were the Syculians, inhabitants of the frontiers of Dalmatia, entered Italy after the Lyburnians, and fettled in that part which at prefent forms the Pope's dominions; and whofe people were known by the name of Oepiqui, who compofed the league of the Sabins, the Latins, the ^nftrians, and the Samnites.
The third body, which were the Veneti, eftablifhed themfelves to the north of the Po> and, for a length of time, formed a feparate nation. They had feveral wars to fuftain againft the Cifalpine Gauls; and there appears not the leaft doubt but that Padua owes its foundation to one of their Kings, as I have already mentioned.
The fplendor of that city was diminifhed in fome degree when Rome was at the height of her glory; but the decline of that ancient and noble Republic carrying with it nearly the deftruction of all the cities of Italy, Padua of courfe fhared the common fate.
That city, after having borne its fhare in the devaluations made by the Huns and Lombards, who overwhelmed that beautiful country, obtained its liberty under the
D Emperor
Emperor Otho the Firft, and was then governed for fome time by its own magiftrates, who afterwards bore the title of Doge or Potefta, till the reign of Ezzelinus the tyrant, who lived in the thirteenth century. He was a native of the Trevefian March, and of German origin; but of a character fo cruel and ferocious, that he was no fooner appointed Potefta than he became a tyrant, and thoufands of the inhabitants fell wretched victims to his fanguinary temper, which he carried to fuch a pitch, that Pope Alexander the Fourth was under the neccflity of declaring a crufade againft him; and, foon after, he was taken prifoner before the city of Milan, which he was on the point of befieging, and carried to Socino, where he died frantic in the year 1259. (See the Life of Ezzelinus by Le Pere Gerard.)
After the death of the tyrant, the Republic of Padua was ftill considerable, having under its jurifdiction the cities of Vicenza, Verona, Trent, Trcvifo, Feltre, Belluno, Baflano, and the greateft part of the country of Friuli, &c.: but, not many years after, it fell a facrifice to the intrigues of the Carrarefi family, which came from Baflano; who, gaining fufficient afccndency over the minds of the people, caufed one of the Princes of their houfe to be appointed Captain in Chief, which was at that time the firft dignity of the State, and which foon became hereditary.
They were then governed monarchically, till the time of Francis the Second, who was taken by the Venetians (as mentioned in Sect. I.); fo that in 1405 the Republic fell under the Venetian jurifdiction; and the mother country became the" property of one of her colonies, who, by way of fecuring it, behaved with the greateft injufticc, in exterminating ignominioufly the remains of that family.
Padua is at prefent fo much declined from its former ftate, that it has fcarcely pre-ferved any remains of its paft grandeur, affording a fcene of poverty, pride, and fuperftition.
There are ftill exifting fome beautiful buildings, fine churches, &c. But the enlightened traveller will not furely permit himfelf to judge of the richnefs of a State, or the happinefs of a people, by fuch (lately monuments.
This great city, which formerly contained two hundred thoufand inhabitants, can hardly boaft at prefent forty thoufand, although its foil is reckoned one of the moft healthy and fertile in all Italy; and its fituation is fo well calculated for commerce, being watered by the rivers Brenta and Bacchiglione, which are both navigable.
Padua, in its former ftate, was well fortified. It is ftill furrounded by two walls; the firft is called, to this day, Antenor's Wall; and the outward (comprehending its fortifications, ditches, &c.) was built by the Venetians at the time of the league of Cambray.
What renders this city moft famous, as alfo worthy the attention of a traveller, is its Univerfity; which, for many centuries, was held in the higheft repute.
This Univerfity has been confidered as one of the moft ancient in Europe, fince it was founded in the twelfth century; but it is indebted to Frederick the Second for the
greateft
greateft part of its improvements. It was alfo efteemed one of the beft; for in their records are mentioned at one time upwards of ten thoufand ftudents, although at prefent there are fcarcely nine hundred.
The fame number of profeffors are kept as at its firft institution, which are fixty, and moft of them men of the greateft erudition ; therefore its decline muft not be attributed to them, but rather to the weaknefs of thofe that are at the head of the police, as they indulge the ftudents in the moft unbridled licentioufnefs, which is carried to fuch a pitch of infolence that no perfon, whether inhabitant or ftranger, can with fafety venture out after dufk.
The Botanical Garden belonging to the univerfity has few equals: its arrangement is very elegant, containing a moft valuable collection of exotic and indigenous plants. It was planted by Francifco Bonaefidei, who died in 1658, and was the firft profeflbr of botany at Padua.
There is alfo a Cabinet of Natural Hiftory well worth feeing, being uncommonly rich in fhells, foflils, minerals, 8cc.
Its Library is alfo considerable. The books are well chofen, and moft of them curious. Its Anatomical Theatre contains every thing that is neceilary for the demon-ilrative part of that ftudy. There is alfo an Experimental Hall supplied with every kind of apparatus or necesTary instruments for ftudents.
Although this work is not intended to give an exact and minute defcription of the various buildings and public edifices, yet I cannot pafs unnoticed the Palazzo della Raggeone, or Town Hall of Padua, where the courts of justice are kept: it is built on the fpot where formerly the ancient Senate flood.    Its architecture is simple, but noble and majestic.    The great Hall is nearly 332 feet long, 116 broad, and 109 in height.    It is ornamented by ninety columns, which are placed between the windows, and fupport the roof.   It alfo contains fome excellent paintings and curious monuments; among others is a monument erected to the memory of Livy the historian, with an inferip-tion which was found in the ruins where the Temple of Concord formerly flood:
v. f. (*) TITUS LIVIUS LWIJE T. f. QUARTLE L. HALYS CONCORDIALIS fATAVI SIBI & SUIS OMNIBUS.
(*) Vivens Fecit.
Above
Above the infcription is placed a buft, fuppofed to be that of Livy. There is alfo in the Hall of the Council Houfe a monument and infcription, with a buft of the Marchionefs of Obizzi, which does infinite honour to the Paduans: I fhall not tranfcribe the infcription, as it would carry me beyond the plan of this work; but the caufe muft not be omitted, as it is erected to the memory of one who was not only as virtuous as Lucretia, but had as great a fhare of fortitude, fince fhe chofe rather to be ftabbed by her ravifber, who, in the abfence of her hufband, had found means to get admittance into her chamber, than yield to his defires.
The villain eluded, for fome time, the hand of juftice; but was at laft taken, and confined in prifon for fifteen years, where he was made to fufTer extreme torture, but to no purpofe; for he never would confers his guilt. Being at laft fet at liberty, he was foon after fhot through the head by the Marchionefs's fon, who immediately afterwards entered into the Emperor's fervice, where he ferved at the beginning of this century.
The people who can erect a monument in honour of fo much virtue, and ftrew its remains with flowers, furely merit the efteem of virtuous men, and the notice of a fentimental traveller.
There are ftill, at Padua, a vaft number of curious infcriptions; one in particular, infcribed on a fmall monument or pillar, in honour of Antenor, and placed at the entrance of St. Lawrence's Street, in thefe words:
" C. Inclytus. Antenor. patriarh vox nifa quietemj " Tranftulit hue Enetum Dardaniduiuque fugas.
" Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit Urberri " Quern tenet hie humili, marmore cefa domus."
There are alfo many remains of antiquity, although the misfortunes which have afflicted this city, have fcarcely left any thing but ruins of the ancient monuments; for the Amphitheatre, which, according to appearances, ought to be larger than that at Verona, is nothing but a heap of ftones! difmal veftiges of paft magnificence !
The Geologift and Naturalift defirous of improvement, muft not quit Padua, without making an excursion to the fouth of that city, and vifiting the villages of Abano, or Aponum, Catajo, Bataglia, and Arqua, or Arquato, as they contain objects worthy of the greateft attention. Thofe villages are fituated at the foot of the Euganian hills, and nearly fouth-weft of Padua.
Abano, which is only five miles from that city, is certainly the fame place which Pliny names Fontes Patavini; as there are in its neighbourhood feveral hot fprings,
or
or baths, of different qualities, the major part of them being fulphurated, and reforted to for various complaints. The heat of fome of thofe fprings is fo great that Fahrenheit's thermometer rofe in general to no degrees.
They emit a difagreeable fmell, fomething like a folution of liver of fulphur. One of them is lukewarm, and is faid to be impregnated with lead. The water is thick, of a milky colour, and the fediment effervefces with acids. There are others fimilar to this, although not quite fn hot as the firft, from which the water iffues in fuch quantities as to drive a mill at the diftanee of twenty pnee? from the fource, and yet continues hot, forming fediments and calcareous incruftations, or rather a kind of marble which effervefces with acids; I alfo found there feveral metallic guhrs.
Those various fprings flow through beds or ftrata of ftone, of which thofe hills are compofed, being a kind of lapis molaris. Thofe ftrata are moftly parallel, inclining towards the fouth, nearly fifteen degrees and a half; but extremely porous, and of a greyifh colour, except in fome places where they are yellow, inclining to red; but I Convinced myfelf that the colour was merely fuperficial, and did not penetrate more than two inches in the interior of the ftone, which was owing to fmall ftreams of ferruginous vitriolic water, which filter through its pores. When firft I had the curiofity to vifit thofe hills, not meeting with any bafaltes, or the leaft production which could lead me to fuppofe that they had been formed by volcanic productions, I attributed the heat of thofe waters limply to the decompositions of fome pyrites, occafioned by the moifture which muft naturally filter abundantly through the pores of the lapis molaris* Not being however thoroughly fatisfied, and having foon after an opportunity of renewing my obfervations with greater accuracy, T continued my refearches on the fame chain of hills in the neighbourhood of Vicenza; and was then fatisfied that the country had formerly contained volcanos, as moft of the fummits of thofe hills were formed of volcanic productions; for in feveral places I found ftrata of lava apparently wide, and one foot and a half in thicknefs; as alfo pieces of bafaltes, pumice ftone, &c.
The village of Catajo is only five Italian miles from Abano, and will not only furnifh amufement to the Naturalift, but to all admirers of painting, as they will be amply gratified by vifiting a magnificent palace called Inganno, and built by Delfini, belonging to one of the defcendants of the Obizzi family; the remarkable actions of which are painted in frefco by the celebrated Paul Veronefe.
About five miles from Catajo lies Arqua, or Arquato, famous for having been the refidence and burial place of Petrarch.
t  The houfe, in which Petrarch lived with his beloved Laura, ftands on a hill a little way from Arquato.
E The
The memory of that poet is preferved in feveral of the apartments by allegorical paintings ; and fome pieces of his furniture ftill remain in the houfe.
I should have much more to add, were I to mention the variety of objects which would naturally engage the attention of the Botanift and Lithologift; but, owing to.the very fhort ftay I made in that part of the country, I was prevented from noticing what might be moft worthy their remarks. I am, therefore, under the necessity of confining within bounds the defire I have of being ufeful, by merely recommending to them not to pafs unnoticed a fpot which will furnifh them with a variety of curiofities deferving their infpecrion.
From Padua we continued our journey to Vicenza, which is alfo the road to Tyrol; but not till after we had viewed what was moft curious in that city.
Vicenza is diftant from Padua nearly eighteen Italian miles: the road being flat, the journey would be uninterefting, were it not that the adjacent country is remarkably rich, and covered with all kinds of trees; but more particularly the mulberry-tree. Many of the inhabitants live chiefly by the culture of filk worms; as alfo by winding, twifting, and dying filks.
Vicenza is fcated on the river Bacchiglione, which is navigable; and, immediately on crofting it, one enters a large plain (though rather lefs than the one that leads to Padua), in the middle of which is fituated Vicenza.
This plain is terminated by a continuation of the Euganian hills, which are bounded v towards the north-eaft by the commencement of the Trentinae Alps.
This fpot is one of the moft fertile and interefting imaginable, being watered by feveral rivers, which defcending from the mountains that furround it, aflift in fertilizing the country, by the decompositions which they continually carry with them, and which ferve as moft excellent  manure;  fo that with great truth it may be ftyled the garden of Europe,   It is alfo embellished by a variety of villas belonging to people of distinction, ornamented by the incomparable Palladio.    Superb columns of white marble, crowned with pediments, and enriched with baflb-relievos, fhew themfelves as it were by ftealth through the tufts of trees; and, from the contrail: of colour, appear ftill whiter than they naturally arc : this, added to their reflection in the limpid ftream, not only increafes the pleasure, but excites the admiration of the traveller.
The city of Vicenza is the capital of the province of Viccntino, and, for a length of time, formed a feparate government. They had alfo their fovereigns and their tyrants, till they were forced to feek the protection of the Republic of Padua: and, at the time of the decline of that city, they gave themfelves voluntarily to the Venetians, which
is
is the reafori they enjoy greater privileges than any of the neighbouring cities, and are of courfe the richeft in the State next to the Republic.
They appoint their own magiftrates for the maintenance of order and a well regulated police. This city is not fo large as Padua; it is badly fortified, but more populous, containing nearly forty-five thoufand inhabitants.
The public buildings are fuperb, the architecture of which retains all the fimplicity and elegance of the times of Auguftus. In fact, they were built after the defigns of the great Palladio, who was a native of Vicenza.
They have alfo an Academy called the Olympic, or Olympici, where the academicians afTemble in the theatre built by the famous architect abovementioned, which is fo universally admired by all travellers. The principal object of this Academy is to fix the ftandard of the Italian language, by promoting the knowledge of its beauty and elegance.
The Euganian hills are here only five or fix Italian miles from Vicenza, and they now become much more interefting to the Naturalift than in the vicinity of Abano; for, in many places, they contain a mixture of various forts of maritime bodies, befides petrifactions, &c.
Monte Summano alfo merits the attention of the traveller, there being many curious plants and medals found on it, befides feveral other relics of antiquity. It is the received opinion, that formerly on that mount there was a temple dedicated to Pluto.
It appeared to me that the mountain owed its formation to fome fubterraneous revolution, as I found a vaft quantity of volcanic productions.
The famous cave of Cuftoza muft not be pafTedover: it is nearly four thoufand feet long, three thoufand broad, and almoft three miles in circumference, according to my own obfervations, and the information I gained on the fpot.
The roof of this immenfe cave is fupported by one thoufand huge pillars, cut out of the quarry, of three perches fquare. Many wonderful and aftonifhing ftories are told of this cavern; but it is only the remains of a quarry left from the digging of ftone, fince the ancient buildings of Padua and Vicenza are apparently built of the fame ftone, which feemed to be a fort of cos lying in parallel ftrata, refembling what Monfieur de Bomar calls cos cedijicialis : neverthelefs, I would not abfolutely affirm it, not having ftayed as long as I could wifti in this fubterraneous abode; being under the necciTity of continuing my journey. It is, however, a fpot worth the attention of a Lithologift.
From Vicenza we went to Verona, which is thirty miles diftant from that city. The road is beautiful, nearly refembling that from Padua to Vicenza; but, as one approaches Verona, the face of nature feems to wear a different afpeft; the adjacent country is
much
much more rural; the hills become mountains; the inhabitants, of courfe, influenced by the fituation, appear in a more natural ftate, and arc confequently better and happier. This change increafes as one approaches the romantic valleys of Policella, Paltena, and Chiampo.
The provinces of Padua and Verona made formerly part of the kingdom of Lombardy. The city of Verona, which is feated on the river Adige, or Athens, is very ancient, fince it is laid to have been built by the Euganei and Rhaeti, and to have been afterwards one of the twelve cities which the Etrurians poffeffed beyond the Apennines, till they were driven from thence by the Cenomani. It is badly built, and its population does not exceed fifty thoufand inhabitants. The fituation is particularly pleafant, in the midft of a charming plain, and watered by the Adige, whicli divides the city nearly in two equal parts. One may take water at Verona for Venice in boats or barges, rendered convenient for that purpofe, and where one meets with every neceflary accommodation for fo ftiort a voyage, which is generally accomplifhed in three days. From its vicinity to the mountains, being nearly at the foot of the Alps, the air is both ferene and healthy.
Although the greateft part of this province is not only mountainous, but filled with romantic and extenfive valleys; yet the foil is particularly rich, and well cultivated; for it amply furnifhes the inhabitants with every luxury as well as neceflary production.
I shall not dwell on the origin of the city of Verona, only obferving, that after many changes of government, it was forced, in imitation of Padua and Vicenza to fubmit to the Venetians, and I fhall content myfclf with adding, that both arts and fcicnces flouriftied in that city long before the decline of the Roman Empire; fince Pliny the Elder, a native of Verona, lived in the time of Auguftus, fifty-five years before Chrift. That city, as well as Padua and Vicenza, formed in the ninth century diftinct. Republics, which were frequently at variance with each other, and engaged in continual contentions. Their government was at firft dcmocratical, but, foon after, became monarchical, through the ambition of feveral individuals.
Verona, as well as thofe cities, during their democracy, appointed a Potefta, whofe authority was to laft a limited time. (Sec the work of John Villani, entitled Chronique des difrerens Peuples du Monde.) This writer aflerts, that " the change " of government was owing to Maftin Efcalius, who being ele&ed in the thirteenth " century Potefta to the Republic, gained fufficicnt influence to add the title " of Perpetual Captain, which privilege remained in his family till the fifteenth " century, when the defcendants of this new Sovereign, taking advantage of their " power and authority, became fo many petty tyrants, as cruel and blood-thirfty as
tc Ezzelinus
" Ezzelinus could poflibly be at Padua: but Maftiri the Third, adding every fpecies of " cruelty to his tyrannic difpofition, obliged the Veronefe and the Vicentini to throw " off the yoke, and feek the protection of the Venetians, who have always treated " them with the greateft lenity."
The government of Verona is adminiftered by a Potefta, or Major, and a Capitaneo: the firft for civil, and the fecond for military affairs* They are both fent by the Venetians*
The city of Verona was formerly well fortified; and it was one of the firft in Italy which made ufe of baftions, although they, as well as their curtains and ravelins, are at prefent in a ruinous condition.
It is guarded by two forts; the one called St. Pietro, and the other St. Felice, which are alfo nearly in ruins. The firft, which is fituated on much higher ground than St. Felice, commands an extenfive view of the adjacent country, the courfe of the Adige, and the Tridentine Alps.
Few cities of Italy, except Rome and Naples, contain a greater variety of antiquities than Verona, At the foot of the caftle of St. Pietro are the ruins of three triumphal arches, which are not fo much effaced but that one may perfectly perceive their different orders. The firft I took to be Corinthian, the fecond Compofite, and the third Tufcam They were all three built by VitruVius. There is a third caftle called Caftello Vecchio, fituated on the banks of the Adige.
The Mufeum contains many remains of antiquity, military pillars, maufoleums^ and tripi, with feveral curious inferiptions in various languages, Oriental, Greek, Latin, Etrufcan, and others. They are indebted to the celebrated Marquis of Maffei for his liberality in enlarging this valuable collection, as alfo for the care and attention with which it is preferved.
At no great diftance from St. Maria Antica, which is an ancient church, are fome Gothic maufoleums erected for the family of Efcalius, who was their firft Potefta; but not for Scaliger, as fome writers have afferted, who was an hiftorian in the reign of Francis the Firft> 1528. In the letters of naturalization, which were granted him by that Prince, there is not the leaft mention of his being a defcendant of the family of Efcalius, which would not certainly have been omitted, could he have made any-pretentions to it.
The Palazzo della Ragione, or Town Hall, is a handfome building; but not fo large as that of Padua.
There are five marble ftatues erected in honour of five of their wife men, natives of Verona, viz. the poets Catullus and ^milius Macrus,   the hiftonans
p Cornelius
Cornelius Nepos and Pliny the Elder, with the architect. Vitruvius; although many affirm that Vitruvius was a native of Formia, at prefent known by the name of Mole de Gaetta. One might alfo add a fixth ftatue, placed under a kind of niche, in honour of Jeremo Fracaftorius.
Verona may boaft of having given birth to a vaft number of men of fcience, &x.; among others to Joannes Jocundus, the celebrated mathematician, to whom we are indebted for the beft tranflation of Euclid: Guarini, who was the firft after the decline of the Roman empire that re-eftablifhed the beauties of the Greek and Latin languages in Europe, and who is fo well known to the Literati, by his Compendium Grammaticae Graecae, &c.: Paul Veronefe, the celebrated painter, whofe pencil has ferved to immortalize his name to pofterity; with many others too numerous to infert. (See the excellent work of Maffei, a native of that city, intituled Verona Illuftrata, vol. ii. p. 178.)
The city of Verona has loft much of its original magnificence by difturbances from its neighbours, and the reiterated oppreflion of its chiefs; yet the Belles Lettres and the Arts have not been entirely impeded; for from that period, to the prefent era, there has always exifted in that city a number of men of letters.
There is alfo a beautiful Academy called Philarmonici, where the Literati meet to difcufs various fubjefts.
That fociety is very ancient, as it exifted before the year 1543; as did alfo another for the encouragement of Arts and Sciences, called Incantati. The members of this fociety alfo join the others, in order to read lectures, Sec. as I have already mentioned. There is alfo a third fociety, which bears the name of Philoti. The place where they afTemble is a kind of Gymnafium, where the youths of Verona practife feveral bodily exercifes; fuch as wreftling, fencing, dancing, horfemanfhip, &c.
I must not however quit this city without noticing its Amphitheatre, which is a noble ftructure, well worth a curious traveller's obfervation, being a beautiful piece of antiquity. It is both ftately and fpacious; of the outward wall is left only a fmall piece, from whence one may make an eftimate of the whole.    The remainder of the building is kept in good repair, owing to the attention of the inhabitants; which certainly does them great credit, as they are frequently obliged to have much done to it. Some authors affert, that it was built in the reign of Auguftus, which does not appear probable, fince Pliny the Elder lived at that time, and does not mention it when he fpeaks of his country: neither does the Younger Pliny, who lived under Vefpafian.   It is not likely that either of them would have omitted it, having both been fo very particular in their defcription of Verona : I fhould therefore fuppofe it to be of a later date than the Colifeo of Rome, built by Titus.   The form of the Amphitheatre is oval: its great diameter
450 feet :
450 feet: the fmall one 360, and its circumference 1290. The great diameter of the Arena is 223 feet, and the fmall one 136 feet and a half. It is furrounded by forty-four ftone benches, raifed one above another in the nature of fteps, of one foot and a half in height, and twenty inches in breadth, capable of containing twenty-two thoufand one hundred and eighty-four perfons. Thofe meafures may be depended on, as I have taken them on the fpot.
I will now fpeak of the environs of Verona:—The Adige, which fertilizes that beautiful country, and offers to its inhabitants every means of opulence and comfort, did not originally pafs through Verona; but it is difficult to afcertain whether the change was accidental or contrived by way of embellifhing the city. It is however certain that, at no great diftance from it, there is a large deep ditch which appears to have been the original bed of the river, as the bottom is flat, and covered with thick fand, intermixed with round thin ftones, called gallet, and large pieces of granite, quartz, &c. which are decompofitions of the primitive mountains. There are few countries fo rich in foflils as the province of Verona; and moft Naturalifts know that it abounds with all forts of petrifactions, fhells, &c. unknown in the European feas: I ftiall therefore not pretend to enlarge on that fubject, as it would only be a repetition of what has already been mentioned by a variety of writers.
I will only add that the marbles are beautiful, and have the fineft polifh; and among them is what the Italians call Mifchio di brentonho, le Giallo di Torri9 befides another fpecies which nearly refembles the Verde Anticay &c.
There is alfo, in the vicinity of Verona, a kind of clayey earth, of a greenifh colour, called Terra Viridis Veronenfis, which is made ufe of by the artifts in painting alfrefco. It is found in ftrata nearly parallel, of four inches in thicknefs. This earth, which is pure ochre, contains fmall particles of copper.
Being rather ftraitened for time, I could only judge from the fpecimens I had feen that the fpot contained objects worthy the obfervations of the mineralogift.
I purchased of two workmen that were there a couple of setitae, or eagle ftones, of a deep red, three inches in diameter, and containing in the interior fome grains of pure iron. They aflured me that they had found them nearly where they were at work. They alfo gave me a variety of foflils, which I have ftill by me.
There are in the province of Verona a number of curious plants, not only in the vallies, but on the adjacent mountains, viz. La Veronica Petrea, La Veronica Fuchfis, De Giovanni Pona, La Sefeli Frutefcens, Erythronium Dens Canis, Ciftus Italicus, Orobus Luteus, Le Polemonium Rubrum, L'Hyacentus Comofus, Sinenaria Helenitus, Hippocreflis Commofa, Gentiana Acolis, Centaurea Minore, de Diofcoride.
(See
(See the Defcription of Monte Baldo by Giovanni Pona, a very fcarce and valuable book.)
The Naturalift will find infinite fatisfa&ion in rambling over thofe mountains and vallies in fearch of objects well worth his attention; but if he mould be flopped in his career by a ftorm, which is frequent in that country, let him not fear to feek the afylum of the humble and ruftic cottager, as he will find that honeft clafs of people poiTeiTing as great a fhare of urbanity, gaiety, and hofpitality, as the inhabitants of the vallies of Switzerland and Savoy.
SECTION
THE   RHiETI AN ALPS.
section nr.
departure   from   verona — barrier of   the   county  of   tyrol,   near rocca pia — description of the  valley of trent and mount ealdo — arrival at trent.
H AVING lengthened my ftay at Verona as long as it was in my power, I quitted it, perfectly fatisfied with what I had feen; though fully convinced that the charming fpot required not only more time properly to investigate its beauties, but alfo the obfervations of a Naturalift more verfed in the ftudy of the three kingdoms of nature. After croffing the river Adige, or Athens, near the gates of Verona, I purfued my route northward, leaving on the right the road to Vicenza, and on the left that to Lombardy. The valley, which one enters directly on pafiing the river, is almoft every where a level, except a few high grounds fcattcred here and there, which feem to announce the approach of the Tridentine Alps. The road continues much the fame till one gets near the village of Sellimo, where the valley becomes contracted, and offers to the eye feveral romantic and picturefque fcenes.
Having left the city of Verona at a very early hour, the fiin had fcareely tinged with his golden beams the fummits of the mounts Baldoand LefTini; the valley, which feparated them, enjoying all the frefhnefs and beauty of a fine fpring morning. In croffing it I felt that charming, undefcribable calm, which fo frequently precedes the appearance of that grand luminary who cheers and enlivens every object. Sometimes I proceeded through beautiful meadows, enamelled with flowers; which, being ftill covered with dew, greatly added to the beauty of the fcene, as the reflection of the fun-beams, darting through the craggy openings of the elevated mountains on the right, made them appear like brilliants of variegated colours. At other times I paffed through extenfive corn-fields, where the golden ears, gently agitated by the morning zephyr, feemed to invite the hand of the reaper, in order to reward him tenfold for his paft trouble and fatigue.
This enchanting fcene received an additional charm from the melody of the aerial fongfters, [training their little throats, as if to vie with each other, in their homage of thankfgiving to the vifible Author of Life and Vegetation.
The Adige alfo, joining its gentle murmurs to their charming drains, meandered calmly through tufts of olive-trees and poplars, quitting with feeming regret this delightful fpot.
G Full
t
Full of admiration at the beauties with which I had been furrounded, I found myfelf as it were, imperceptibly, in the midft of the firft chain of the Tridentine Alps. When arrived at the important fort of Chiufa, the fcene changed totally, and beauties of a different nature prefented themfelves to the eye: for, inftead of rich and fertile meadows, intermixed with charming and extenfive forefts of olive-trees, Sec. huge and tremendous rocks fcem to furround one.
Their fummits were covered with firs, lofing themfelves in the clouds, and fpreading their dark mantle athwart the view, whilft their bafe, compofed of enormous maffes of ftone, hung fhelving over the road, which is dug out of the fteep fide of the rock.
On the other fide is a precipice, at the bottom of which rolls the river Adige; which, at times, finding its courfe contracted in the narrow part of the valley, daffies impetuoufly with a white foam againft thofe tremendous rocks.
Although this fituation is both wild and barren, it contains many valuable plants, viz. the Echinops Sphaerocephalus, Plantago Alpina, Saponaria Vaccaria, Delphinum Pcregrinum, Anthyllys Hermaniae, Dorcynio d'Alcunni, Myofatis Capula or Cynoglofo Vulgare, Campanula Specula, or the Onfbrychis Ongarica of Carlo Clufio, the Philomis Purpurea or Verbafco Tertio of Mathioli, and the Chryfocoma Hinafquis, &c.
The mountains, which border the contracted part of the valley, are moftly compofed of calcareous ftone, of a yellowifh colour, the grain of which is particularly coarfe, containing a quantity of marine bodies, unknown in the European Seas ; viz. a variety of entrochce, echiniti, bclemniti, &c.
I, nevertheless, perceived in various parts of the mountain (which is fituated on the left from Verona, and a continuation of mount Baldo) extenfive banks of marble, of a deep red, which feemed to compofe the bafe of that mountain.
Those banks form an angle with the horizon, of nearly twenty-three degrees and a half, from Eaft to Weft. i was furprifed at finding that they did not immediately effervefce with acids, not being then able to account for it ; but, before the conclufion of this work, I propofe explaining in what manner I convinced myfelf that acids do not always ferve to diftinguifh calcareous ftones.
The inferior ftrata of the greateft part of the mountain we have been defcribing, which lie between the banks of marble, are of a finer grain : however, not finding the leaft trace of marine productions, I was led to fuppofe it probable, that the mountain, as well as feveral of the fecondary chains of the Alps, may have been formed at different times: a conjecture which is fupported by many of our naturalifts. It is, neverthelefs, a fubject of too great importance in the ftudy of geology, to decide on, without very mature and exact obfervations. Many of the ancient naturalifts of Italy, and among the reft Giovanni Pona, aiTcrt, that " near the fort of Chiufa, the two mountains which
<< at
*c at prefent form a kind of canal to the Adige, united formerly, at an immenfe height; " fo that the river being pent up within clofe rocky banks, and the channel being u deep, the water precipitated itfelf from the fummit of thofe mountains, forming a u large water-fall." He alfo adds, " that, the courfe of the river being thus flopped, <c the waters had naturally formed an extenfive lake in the valley of Lagarina." His alTertion is very probable, as every appearance indicates that the pafs of Chiufa is as much indebted to art as nature.
The relative height of the different ftrata, as alfo the parallelifm in their inclination, clearly feen on the fides of the two lateral mountains, which ferve as limits to the Adige, appear to corroborate what that writer fuppofes to have been the cafe; for, if one obferves attentively the fcarps of the greateft part of thofe mountains which are turned towards the valley, they will be found furrowed, forming feveral parallel excavations in the rock, greatly refembling the northern fide of mount Saleve in Savoy; which feems to prove that the waters retired reluctantly from thofe mountains.
The pafliige of the Adige, at the fort of Chiufa, is very like that of the Rhone between the extremity of mounts Jura and Vouache, below the fort of Clufe. Thofe places have likewife a fimilarity in their names, the word Chiufa implying a door or narrow pajfage; a term generally made ufe of by the inhabitants of the Alps and Pyrenees, when fpeaking of defiles.
The fort of Chiufa is fituated on the edge of a high rock, which commands the road, is nearly perpendicular to it, and a continuation of mount Valergue.   It ferves as a barrier to the defile; and the Venetians, to whom it belongs, keep a fmall garrifon, in order to protect it.    They have alfo strengthened with a wall and parapet, the finuations or windings of the rock, which extend to the bottom of the mountain, and are there terminated by a large fquare tower, where a few invalids are ftationed to collect the duty on all merchandife imported into the ftates of the republic.   This fpot is as wild and barren, as the valley I fpoke of with fo much pleafure is rural and well cultivated. The pafs of Chiufa is even dangerous in the night, being infefted by a number of robbers, who are frequently lurking on the frontiers, in hopes of considerable booty, by plundering the unfufpecting traveller.   At a fmall distance from the Fort, the valley widens infenfibly;  and the firft village on that road is called Peri, which is fmall, consisting only of a few houfes.   Thence one proceeds to OfTcnigo, the laft village leading towards Tyrol, belonging to the ftates of Venice ;  for, in the vicinity of that village is a fmall wooden crofs, which ferves to mark the boundaries of the two fovereignties of Verona and Trent, or, perhaps more properly, the limits of the county of Tyrol; as the four Vicariati, fituated in the valley of Lagarina, and on the road to Reveredo, certainly form part of the bifhopric of Trent:  but the Houfe of Austria
having
having referved the territorial superiority over the Counts of Caftlcbark, who at prefent poffefs them as a feodal tenure from the emperor; that fmall province may be faid to belong to the county of Tyrol.
Those Vicariati include four large boroughs, viz. Ala, Mori, Avio, and Brentonico ; but before I quit the Veronefe, I muft not omit fpeaking of mount Baldo, which is famous for its imiples, and the tempestuous lake of Garda, or Lacus Bcnacus, whofe waves Virgil justly compares to thofe of the fea. Its direction is nearly from north to fouth ; offering moft enchanting and picturcfquc views, preferable, if pofliblc, to thofe of the lake of Geneva: but, to do them jultice, and to dcfcribe them with the elegance and advantage they deferve, one ought not only to poffefs the talents, but the pens of the philofophic naturalifts of Geneva.*
The banks of the lake are irregular, and its fhores much indented, which greatly adds to the romantic view, for the waters are frequently feen forming a variety of creeks and bays, in the midft, as it were, of extenfive and well-cultivated meadows, whofe fides are embellifhed with various forts of trees; further up the lake the fcene fhifts, and the land is feen extending itfelf in the water, which, at a diftance, has the appearance of fo many enchanted peninsulas, or iflands of different forms and dimensions. Its length is thirty-five Italian miles, and its width fifteen. A number of fmall commercial cities, boroughs, and villages are fituated on its banks. The inhabitants, who are active and industrious, enjoy all that eafe, comfort, and cleanlinefs (fo feldom feen in the plains of Italy), which muft be entirely attributed to their trade and habits of induftry. There are alfo a variety of manufactories.
The principal cities which border the lake, are, Torgole (belonging to the bishopric of Trent), Maffena, Tori, and Garda (from which the lake takes its name). It is fup-pofed that Adelaide, wife to the Emperor Lothaire the Second, king of Italy, and daughter to Rodolphus, king of Burgundy, was, in 949, confined in that city by the cruel Berenger the Second, ufurper of the crown of Italy.
This unfortunate princefs, finding means to elude the vigilance of her keepers, effected her efcape in the dead of night; but, having mistaken her way, fhe fell into a large piece of water, where fhe remained four and twenty hours (for fear of being difcovered) nearly exhausted by hunger and cold ; fhe, at laft, alone and unaflifted, extricated herfelf, and took refuge in the fortrefs of Canoze, whence flic folicited the afliftancc of the Emperor Otho the Firft, who, having avenged her wrongs, and delivered her from her persecutor, married her in 951, and took her to Pavia, where her virtues and accomplishments not only gained the affection of her hufband, but the admiration of every one,
* It is cafy to conjetture that I mean Meflrs. Bonnet and Saufure,
To
To the poor and the oppreffed fhe was a kind and benevolent benefadtrcfs; but a fworn enemy to hypocrify and deceit.
The other cities in the vicinity of the lake, are, Lacife, Dcfenzano, and Pefchiera which is fituated at the fouthern extremity of it and on the river Mincio, whofe waters iffue from the lake, in the fame manner as thofe of the Rhone at Geneva iffue from lake L eman.
The peninfula of Sermione, which is illustrious for having given birth to the poet Catullus, deferves the obfervations of the Naturalist, as there are feveral fulphureous mineral fprings contiguous to the lake. The cities of Alo, Gargnano, and Pfarol, are famous for their manufactories of cloth, wool, and fluff.
I shall wave the defcription of a variety of iron founderies, where feveral articles are fabricated for exportation; as, alfo, a number of mills and preffmg-houfes, made ufe of for extracting the oil of olives, &c.
The lake Garda is well provided with fifh, and, by thofe means, affords a maintenance to the poorer inhabitants, who get their living by fiihing.
The hills, which nearly furround this vaft expanfe of water, are merely fmall roots of thofe high and tremendous mountains which ferve as its eaftern, western, and northern boundaries ; but they are bleffed with fuch an union of different and various productions as belong to few other regions; for thofe, towards the fouth, are covered with orange, lemon, and olive-trees, intermixed with all kinds of delicious fruit trees, and ornamented with the leafy branches of the vine. The myrtle, which is as common as at Nice, is planted by the inhabitants to divide their territorial poffeffions. The northern hills are enriched with trees of a different fpecies, though not lefs ufeful, viz. the beech, the afh, green oak, and common oak, which are moft of them excellent timber for building of (hips : there are alfo firs and larch-trees, of a considerable height and bulk, which adorn the moft elevated fummits near the lake.
The hiaheft chain of mountains towards the eaft consists of the mounts Albarc, Gambon, Poffete, and Nago, which is ftill a continuation of Mount Baldo, or Alpi di Monte Baldo. There are feveral large banks of marble found in them, but the red is predominant. Thofe mountains are compofed of calcareous ftone, containing a quantity of impreffions of marine productions; I fhall not however attempt a defcription of them, not having had fufficient time to make any obfervations worth notice.
Towards the weft are the mounts Lignano, Pinedo, Puria, Darzo, and the elevated Peak of Mount Cretagna, which is nearly opposite to that of Nargo; the two laft are fituated in the bifhopric of Trent.
I received fuch pleasing accounts of mount Albare, and of the charming and extenfive views which are thence confpicuous, the eye being able not only to difcern the Adriatic fea
H but
but even Venice, with the cities of Padua, Vicenza, Verona, and the greateft part of the Mantuan country; that, had my time permitted, I could have wifhed to have tranfported myfelf thither, in order to enjoy fuch beautiful fcenery; as alfo to have explored the mount, and taken its elevation, having with me a barometer constructed according to Mr. De Luc's principles, in his ingenious work entitled " Recherches fur les Modifications de rAtmofphere.1' I fhould at the fame time have added to my collection of plants the Trifolium Alpinum, mentioned by Giovanni Pona; as alfo the Ocymoides Mufcofus, Geranium Alpinum, Longuis Radicatum, &c.: but, being under the necessity of continuing my route, I was forced to content myfelf with the information which had been given me.
I would advife the Naturalist and the inquisitive Traveller not to omit vifiting the lake of Garda and Its environs; as that extenfive and beautiful piece of water, with its adjacent country, forms one of the moft picturefque and enchanting fcenes I ever beheld.
To thofe who are desirous of viewing what will fo amply repay their time and trouble, I would recommend from Verona the road to Pafchiera, which is fituated at the fouthern extremity of the lake; but, on coming from Germany, the high road to Italy muft be left near Roveredo; and, after crofting the Adige^ travellers fhould proceed to Torbole, a fmall town, twelve miles distant from that city, fituated towards the north.
The Sarca is the moft considerable river which falls into the lake. It defcends with remarkable rapidity from the great Glaciers, which are nearly fix miles in extent from north to fouth: they not only furround the mounts Bedole, but even reach the lofty fummit of Vederette di Lares.
This river, after crofting the vallies of Rcndena and Arco, runs into the Garda, between the charming city of Riva and Torbole.
I will now finifh my defcription of mount Baldo and lake Garda, fearing that I have already by this digression trefpafTed too much on the patience of my reader, and will therefore proceed on my route from the fmall wooden crofs near Offenigo, the laft village belonging to the ftate of Venice.
Soon after palTmg the limits already mentioned, one enters the bifhopric of Trent, near Rocca-Pia, where fome Austrian foldiers are ftationed to guard the defile, prevent fmuggling, and protect the traveller from a banditti which fometimes infeft that road.
The firft place, of any consequence in the bifhopric, is Ala, a poft-town, distant one hundred and five miles from Venice, well built and extenfive. It is feated on the river whence it takes its name, which runs into the Adige, after crofting the fertile valley of Ronchi. There is alfo at Ala a manufacture of velvet, much esteemed in Germany. The country is well cultivated, and covered with a variety of fruit and olive-trees, which ferve to fupport the vines, in great abundance here, and productive of tolerably good wine. From
From Ala to Roveredo (which is the fecond poft-town after quitting the ftates of the Republic) the road is particularly pleafant, and follows nearly the courfe of the Adige, palling feveral fmall hamlets fituated on the declivity of the mounts Perabio and Zaina.
The valley of Lagarina continues widening till near the caftle of Seravalc; the country, which is watered by the Adige, and feveral other fmall rivers, is fertile, romantic, and well inhabited ; the mulberry tree in particular is remarkable for its fize; the fcene changes, as the road draws near to the village of Chizola, iituated at the entrance of a long narrow plain", at the foot of the mounts Marco, Tovo, and Pra. The country then becomes defolate, wild, and barren, there being only a few tufts of yews and firs, which make their appearance from between large pieces of loofe rocks that nearly fill the plain and contract, the road, offering a melancholy picture to the fpeculative traveller. Thofe ruins are the effects of the fall of the mounts Marco and Tovo; this defolate fpot, which is called Slavini de Marco, or, very improperly, the wood of Roveredo, is as dangerous in the night, as the pafs of Chiufa.
It is, however, probable, that a wood or foreft may have exifted prior to the overthrow of thefe mountains, which might be totally destroyed by the violent concuf-fion. I endeavoured to gain fome information as to the time it had happened ; but without fuccefs, as they aflured me that it was fcarcely a century ago, which does not by any means appear probable, as ivy, in maiTes uncommonly large, has taken pofleflion of moft of the ftones, and even fhrubs feemed to have taken root, which convinced me the event muft have been at a more remote period.
Those rocks are calcareous, of the fpecies Wallerius terms <c Calcareus Scintillans grifeus," without any petrifactions of marine fubftances, at leaft I did not find any.
Roveredo, which is a fmall town in the bifhopric of Trent, and diftant from Ala feven Italian miles, is well built, has a caftle that commands the town, furrounded by fortifications: it is alfo the capital of the district whence it takes its name, which comprehends the vallies of Valarz, Teragnal, and Tranbelen. The inhabitants fpeak German. One begins at Roveredo to diftinguifh fome little difference, both morally and physically, between the people of this country and the Veronefe; for although they do not inhabit fo rich and cultivated a foil, owing to the country's being mountainous, yet they are stronger, more active, and more opulent. The town is governed by a chief magistrate or potefta, who is nominated by the bifhop of Trent. It is commercial, having feveral manufactories, and one in particular of filk, which is much admired. Its fituation is delightful; it is watered by the Lena, which lofes itfelf in the Adige at a fmall distance from the town, where feveral vallies meet, and form a fpacious well-cultivated plain, nearly circular.
The
The fertility of the foil, and the wholcfomc comfortable appearance of its inhabitants, foon make one forget the barren and defolate Slavi?ii di Marco.
From Roveredo, one continues on the banks of the Adige, till one gets to the foot of Cajlello della Pietra, fituated oil a rock, which is a continuation of the mount of the fame name. Thence one proceeds to the village Caliano, feated on the river Gola; leaving on the right, the caftle of Befeno, memorable for being the fpot where the Venetians were defeated by the Tyrolefe in 1487, when they attempted to retake the four vicariati which originally belonged to them.
The Count of Trapp is the feigneur or lord of the manor of Befeno; but there is an Auftrian garrifon kept in the caftle.
Soon after quitting Caliano, the country becomes mountainous, and the valley contracts, forming feveral projecting and injecting angles, which, checking the courfe of the Adige, make it meander here and there, and form an appearance refembling many fmall iflands, fo as to add greatly to the variety of the fcene. On the right hand of the road from Caliano is the mount Scanupia, which is fteep, and partly compofed of a grey calcareous ftone, although near its bafe, towards the eaft, are ftrata of red fchiftz, which effervefce with acids, and contain the imprelTion of plants refembling fern.
The mountains on the left are not fo fteep : the moft confiderable are Bondon, Lafino, and Cornato; I was informed that in the environs of the valley Cavedine (fituated at the foot of thofe mountains), there were ftill exifting feveral extinguifhed volcanos; but as I did not fee them, I will not affirm it as a certainty. The valley widens, as one approaches the city of Trent, forming a beautiful and fertile plain, watered partly by the river Ferfina, which defcends from the valley of Canezo, as alfo by the Adige, which croffes it from north to fouth.
Those two rivers, which fertilize that part of the country, at times caufe vaft devastations ; owing to the inundations occafioned by the melting of the fnow on the primordial chain of thefe Alps, whence the torrent rufhes with great impetuofity, carrying with it a prodigious quantity of ftones, fand, and flate, which cover the country as the torrent paffes, and effectually flop, for a number of years, every fpecics of vegetation.
The inhabitants, knowing partly the feafon when they are to expect this cataftrophe, endeavour, by raifing banks, to flicker themfeles from approaching deftruction.
I shall refervc a defcription of the city of Trent, its origin and form of government, for the following fection.
SECTION
SECTION
IV.
remarks   on   the   origin   and   form  of   government of   the   bishopric of trent — departure   from  that city—description  of its  environs — general observations   on   the   secondary   chain   of   the alps, connected  with  the   route   from trent to botzen—arrival  at botzen.
TYi E city of Trent, which is the capital of that bifhopric, is alfo the refidence of its Prince and Bifhop. Strabo and Ptolemaeus, but particularly the latter, in his third book on geography, fpeak of that city, by the name of Tridentum; dating its origin at a very early period, fuppofing it nearly as ancient as Rome, and founded by a Tufcan Prince, whofe name is unknown.
It is certain that the province of Trent formerly made part of the country of Etruria, whofe inhabitants were called by the Greeks Tyrrheni, or Pelafgi, and by the Romans Tufci, or Etrufci; but as each Etrurian province, according to Livy and Pliny, bore a particular name, the inhabitants of the Trentine country were called Rhaeti, which included the chain of Alps, from which flows the river Adige, or Athefis. At the time of the decline of the Etrufci, the city of Tridentum was befieged by the Cenomani, a courageous and valiant people, inhabitants of the Cifalpine Alps, fituated to the weft of lake Benacus. After a long and tedious fiege they became mafters of it; and, having improved and ftrengthened it considerably, they made it one of their principal cities: but thefe people being, in their turn, conquered by the Romans, that city, as well as the remainder of the Rhaetian country, fell under their dominion; although its inhabitants were not entirely fubdued till twelve years before the Chriftian era.
Those warlike and blood-thirfty people having committed feveral acts of horror and cruelty in the Cifalpine Alps, Drufus, fon of Tiberius Nero and Livia, marched a considerable army againft them, and partly defeated them in the plains of Lombardy. He then purfued them to the foot of their mountains, where his brother Tiberius terminated the conquest, fubduing them entirely by famine.
Since the fall of the Roman empire the city of Trent, or Tridentum, belonged fucceffively to the Huns, the Goths, and the Lombards; as alfo to the Emperors of the weft ; but, in confequence of feveral revolutions which happened in that empire, it became the property of the houfe of Bavaria, and afterwards an imperial city: at
1
laft,
laft, the Emperor Conrade, furnamed Salique, made a gift of it, in 1027, to its bifhop, with its territorial poffeflions; which was again confirmed, in 1155, by the Emperors Frederick the Firft and Second.
Since that epoch the city of Trent has been under the jurifdiction of its bifhops, who take the title of Prince; although the counts of Tyrol have referved the right of Prefecture over the bifhopric, which is ftill under their protection. They have alfo the privilege of appointing a governor, during a vacancy in the epifcopal fee.
The houfe of Auftria, having been in poffeffion of the county of Tyrol fince the year 1369, enjoys all the privileges abovementioncd. In 1363, Bifhop Albert, with the confent, and by the advice, of the Chapter, iffued a decree in behalf of Duke Rodolphus, by which he joined his bifhopric for ever to the county of Tyrol, agreeing to fhare in all the expences that might be neceflary for the fafety of the ftate ; granting alfo free accefs to his troops, into all the cities, caftles, and fortrcffes of his dominions. This offer was accepted by the Dukes Albert, Frederick, and Sigifmund; and afterwards by the Emperor Maximilian the Firft and Ferdinand the Firft.
About the year 1511, it was agreed between the Archduke of Auftria and the Bifhop of Trent, that the latter fhould fend deputies to the diet of Tyrol; and that he fhould not only participate in their deliberations, but join in defraying the neceflary expences incurred in maintaining the profperity and fafety of the State; but, at the fame time, the Archduke promifed, as Sovereign of Tyrol, partly to reimhurfc the bifhopric for all extra charges relating to the empire. Thk treaty was again ratified, in 1548, at the diet of Augfburg.
The Bifhop of Trent, being a Prince of the empire, has confequently a vote and feat in that quality, at the Diet of Ratifbon, &c. He is elected for life by the Chapter, which confifts of eighteen canons and prebendaries of the moft ancient nobility of the country, who have alfo a feat in the affemblies of Tyrol.
The Aulic Council of that Prince is compofed of ecclefiaftics and laymen. The hereditary places belong to certain diftinguifhed families: that of Grand Marfhal (which is confidered as the firft) belongs to the houfe of Firmians; that of High Chamberlain, to the Counts of Darzo ; that of Cup-bearer, to the family of Thun; and that of Senefchal or Head-bailiff, to the Barons Prato.
The territory attached to the bifhopric is extenfive, being nearly eighty miles from eaft to weft, and fixty from north to fouth. It contains feveral cities, and a number of villages; it is well inhabited, and the country is both fertile and cultivated. Its inhabitants, whofe honefty and fimplicity are generally marked on their countenances, are particularly mild and affable; fo that, were one to judge of their form of government from their apparent happinefs and induftry, one fhould not hefitate to pronounce it one of the
belt;
beft; for the people, although unadorned, and but indifferently instructed, yet, being endowed withfo much virtuous fimplicity, they are objects to be contemplated with pleasure. Their taxes are moderate, and arbitrary power is feldom exercifed. The language is either German or Italian; but thofe who arc fituated to the weft of the Adirre* and north of Trent, in general, fpeak German. That city cannot boaft of many curiosities, yet there are fome few churches worth notice ; the columns, pediments, 6cc. of which are highly finished in various forts of beautiful marble, of the country; they alfo contain feveral valuable paintings of the firft mafters. The capital houfes belonging to the nobility ought not to pafs unnoticed, the architecture is good, and they are finished with tafte ; but, in general, their mansions are as simple as their manners, and remarkably neat. The streets are tolerably wide, and regular. The city is not fortified, having only a single wall furrounding it, commanded by an old ruinous caftle, where a few invalids are stationed.
The Bifhop's palace is a Gothic building; it is fpacious, and merits the attention of the traveller: it contains feveral beautiful paintings in frefco. The church of Santa Maria Majore ought alfo to be feen, where the famous Council of Trent was held, the fifteenth of December 1545, and lasted till 1563. It was convened by the Emperor Charles V. and Pope Paul III. in order to refute the doctrine of Luther, and reform the licentioufnefs and corruption which had crept in among the clergy and laity; but it had not the defired effect, owing to the diffenfions among the heads of the council, and the wars which at that time distracted Europe.
It was convoked three times in the fpace of eighteen years, and during the reign of five different Popes, viz. Paul III. Julius III. Marcellus III. Paul IV. and Pius IV. (For further information fee L'Hiftoire du Concil de Trente, by Pierre Soave Polani, or Fra Paoli.)
In the fame church is a large picture, defcriptive of the event, with the members, &c. as affembled in council.
The Adige, which crofTes the city, and over which is built a curious wooden bridge, one hundred and fixty-three feet long, not only gives it a commercial appearance, but adds greatly to the wholefomenefs of the place; for, although it is fituated in the centre of a fmall plain, furrounded by elevated mountains, the air is reckoned lalubrious; which muft be attributed in a great measure to that and its proximity to the Alps.
The heat is exceflive in fummer; but, owing to the great Tridentine Glaciers, which are at no great distance, they enjoy, morning and evening, a refrefhing breeze. From the fame caufe their winters are fevere (although in latitude 46), which is common to all places fituated near the bafe of that extenfive range of mountains.
Most
Most of the houfes are built of a coarfe reddifh marble, called by Wallerius Marmor variegatum rubrum, and cut out of a quarry near the city. The banks of marble are particularly thick, and appear to extend below the foil, forming an angle of nearly twenty-two degrees and a half.
I have made a general obfervation, that, in the quarries from Chiufa to Trent, as alfo wherever the bafe of the mountains is fufficiently bare, one may depend on rinding banks of marble which vary in colour, but very little as to their inclination, feldom exceeding five degrees. The grain is partly every where the fame, without the leaft appearance of marine fubftances; and thofe marbles fcarcely effervefce with acids.
It is widely different with the calcareous beds of ftone, and fchifti, which lie above thofe of marble; for the calcareous ftone frequently, after having been for fome time parallel with its bafe, will at once form an angle of thirty-fix degrees, as if the mountain had fuddenly given way, and funk in that part, owing to fome fubterraneous commotion. As for the ftrata of fchifti, they are, in fome places, nearly perpendicular; and they both, in general, contain a quantity of marine bodies, with impreflions and fragments of fhells and plants.
Although I was determined, at the beginning of my work, merely to ftate occurrences as they happened, without giving a decided opinion upon any particular object. \ yet I cannot help, in this inftance, deviating from my original plan; as every thing feems to prove that the greateft part of our continents and fecondary mountains have been unquestionably formed at different times from the fediment of the waters of the fea, which have more than once covered them.
The fituation of Trent is extremely rural, being built on a peninfula, formed by the Adige and the river Ferzina, as I mentioned in the preceding fection.
In a weftern direction from that city is feen the lofty fummit of mount Vafon, whofe bafe is entirely concealed by the fertile hill of Doftrent, or Dorfum Tridentum, where it is fuppofed a temple, dedicated to Neptune, formerly flood. There are alfo the remains of a caftle, which was built by the Lombards. Towards the eaft are the mounts Celva and Terra RoiTa \ the latter takes its name from the colour of the foil, which is a mixture of red potter's earth, or ochre, containing a quantity of iron called by Monfieur de Bomarc humus rubra.
The extenfion of mount Pine is vifible towards the north, where there are considerable beds of fchifti, of different fpecies, containing either iron or lead. They have even begun to work one of the mines, and found it anfwer their expectations. I procured, at the inn where I lodged, two beautiful chryftalizations of felenita?, or moon ftone, which had been taken out of that mountain, from among the ftrata of fchifti.
On
On quitting Trent we leave the road to Venice, through the province of Trevigiano, to the right, which is much fhorter than the one we have been defcribing, as they only reckon feventy-feven miles from thence to that capital, and one hundred and twenty-four by the way of Verona; but the road is neither fo good nor fo pleafant. The fmall plain, at the entrance of which is fituated the city of Trent, is ornamented by a number of hamlets and beautiful villas. The foil is well cultivated, and produces a variety of excellent fruit trees, &c. It is alfo furrounded by a range of hills covered with vines, which appear as the firft regular gradation towards that high and tremendous chain of the Alps, that,rife from the back ground, and enrich confiderably the fcene, by encreafing the pleafure which fo beautiful and picturefque a fpot naturally infpires. From thence we proceeded to the town of Lavis, feated at the northern extremity of the plain, one mile from the Adige, and on the banks of the torrent Avifio, which rufhes with great rapidity from a Glacier fituated between two remarkably fteep mountains, called Vedretta di Marmolata      Campo della Salva, in the Rellunefe province.
It is proper to obferve, that the higheft mountains fouth of the Great Brenner are diftinguifhed by the name of Vedretta, and thofe on the north by that of Spitz.
The torrent Avifio crofTes the extenfive vallies of Fafta and Fieme, or Vallis Flemarum, which are more than twenty miles in extent, fertile, and well inhabited. The people carry on an extenfive trade in cattle and wood with the Italians, which accounts for the preference they give to their language, as they fpeak it more fluently than the German.
Cavaleze is the principal town of thofe vallies, extenfive, and well fituated. The torrent, which rufhes impetuoufly, carries with it vaft quantities of ftone, gravel, &c. of various fizes; and was formerly the caufe of devastations in the vicinity of Lavis; but the inhabitants of that town, jointly with thofe of Trent, caufed a dike to be made in that part where the torrent appeared moft formidable and dangerous; and it had the desired effect. The work is executed in ftone, and does great credit to thofe concerned in it.
On quitting the town of Lavis the mountain Corona contracts the valley; but it foon after widens and forms a plain, by no means inferior to that of Trent, either in fertility or population.
The people of that country give up their time entirely to agriculture, and are, of courfe, very induftrious.
They experience, during the fummer, fuch a fucceflion of dry weather, that the produce of their land would be entirely destroyed, had not feveral of the moft opulent inhabitants, prompted by a defire of promoting public good, erected, at their own expence, a number of machines on the banks of the Adige, in order to raife the water from the river, and conduct it over the land in the following manner: —
K Those
Those machines arc thus constructed—A wheel, nearly twenty feet in diameter, is provided with wooden buckets. Thefe, filling as the wheel turns round, empty themfelves into a conduit, which conveys the water over the land by furrows cut in the ground. The wheel is fupported by a treflel, which rifes or falls according to the depth of the river. The invention is fo perfectly fimple, and at the fame time of fuch great utility, that it is to be lamented it fhould not be known in thofe countries where want of water occasions a total lofs of their crops of hay, Sec.
St. Michael, which is a poft-town, may be looked upon as a key to the valley, or plain, we have been defcribing, distant from Trent near eight Italian miles.   It has nothing to recommend it except its fituation, which is delightful, being feated at the confluence of two capital rivers, viz. the Adige and the Nos: this laft waters the extenfive vallies of Non and Sole.
The valley of Non, or Anania, is fertile, and well inhabited; but by no means extenfive : yet it contains a number of caftles, villages, and hamlets, and is reforted to in the fummer by moft of the principal families of Trent and its environs. Its direction is from fouth-weft to north-weft. That of Sole is much larger, and extends from eaft to weft. The air is alfo more keen than that of Non, owing to its being more elevated, and furrounded by Glaciers, which are in a north-weft direction. The moft considerable are thofe of Kluften Farner and Zufall Farner (for, in the Tyrol, all Glaciers are known by the name of Farner). Having converfed with feveral of the peafants who were huntfmen, they afliired me that they were more than twenty miles in length.
Opposite to St. Michael is mount Corno, which is remarkably fteep, and a continuation of a range of mountains that defcend from the high Alps, called Mendola, extending from north to fouth. At the foot of mount Corno is a rugged hill, compofed of a kind of compound ftone, which Wallerius terms Cos particulis Minimis Glareofts, Mollis, Cccdua, Efp. 76.
In the front of the hill is an extenfive cavity, in which is constructed a fmall hermitage, called St. Gotha. Although the road is difficult of accefs, yet it merits the attention of travellers, from its fingularity, and elevated fituation, which commands thofe vallies.
Above the hermitage is the village of Mezzo Tedefco, or Half German; and on the opposite fide .of the river Nos is that of Mezzo Lombardo, or Half Lombard. Thefe villages boaft of their antiquity, and trace their origin from the time of the wars between the Lombards and Bavarians.
Soon after pafling the caftle of Konigiherg one enters the valley of Salurne, which is fertile, and well cultivated. The village is fituated at its extremity. The next poft-town is Neumarkt, diftant eight miles from St. Michael. It is the common opinion that it was formerly known by the name of Indidejum, a city belonging to the Rhseti. From
thence
thence one proceeds to Branzoll, which is the next poft, a fmall village, nearly furrounded by heaths and marfhcs.
Opposite is the fmall lake of Calterer, which takes its name from the village Caltern, fituated below the lake, famous for its hot alum baths of Muchlburg, at the foot of mount Mendola.
The road from Branzoll to Botzen, or Bolfano, is nearly the fame as that from Neu-markt to Branzoll, the adjacent country being well cultivated and covered with vines.
On this fide Botzen is the caftle of Haflburg, which is on an eminence, and commands the vallies of Botzen and Venofta. One quits the courfe of the Adige, near the caftle, to follow that of the river Eifach, the road continuing on its banks till one gets beyond the Brenner mountain, where it takes its fource.
The valley of Venofta, which is left on the right, is more than fifteen miles in length, and is watered by the Adige, which defcends from the extenfive Glaciers of Langtauffer, and Gebatfch, fituated to the north of the fmall village of Clurns, and the town of Schlanders.
Besides thofe two places, which sire runfiderable, is the ancient city of Meran, featcd on the river PafTer, and near the Adige: it was formerly the capital of the county of Tyrol, and is even at prefent acknowleged as fuch in their public records.
At no great diftance from Meran is the fpot where flood the original city of that name, or Urbs Majienfis, which was entirely deftroyed in the fourteenth century, and buried in the ruins of a mountain that fuddenly gave way.
Near that city is the borough and caftle of Tyrol, the refidence of the ancient counts of that province, and from whence they take their title.
The inhabitants of its valley are very induftrious, and confequcntly diffufe over the country an appearance of comfort and eafe. They have feveral manufactories; but their carpets and laces are particularly admired. The river Eifach feparates the caftle of Hafelberg from Botzen, which are a mile diftant from each other. Its fituation is pleafant and picturefque, being in the center of four vallies, and at the meeting of two capital rivers, viz. the Talfer and the Eifach. The firft takes its fource at the foot of mount Schneeberg, and the other above the great Brenner. The houfes are uniform, and well built; the ftreets are tolerably wide; and the air mild and temperate, although in the vicinity of the Alps.
This city formerly made part of the bifhopric of Trent; but fince the year 1295 it has belonged to the houfe of Auftria. Its commerce is considerable, being, as it were, a place of reunion to the Germans and Italians, who meet there, to fell or barter the productions of their country, and the fruits of their induftry. They have four capital annual fairs, although not fo considerable as formerly; for the manufactories of filk,
which
which are at prefent creeled at Vienna and many other parts of Germany, have, in a great meafure, deprived them of that branch of commerce.
The city alfo enjoys feveral privileges, which were granted by Claudia, Archdutchefs of Auftria. One in particular merits notice, as it tends to the maintaining of order and regularity. During the time that the fairs abovementioned are held, the citizens are permitted to appoint, from among themfelves, four magiftrates; two of whom are Germans, and two Italians, to regulate every thing neceflary to prevent fraud, confufion, and dif-putes. They may alfo hold a court of juftice, to enact laws and penalties neceflary for that time only.
Three days before the commencement of the fair a proclamation is iflued, implying, that thofe who propofe carrying on any kind of traffic are obliged to give their name to the judge, who enters it in a book, and then grants a certificate, or patent, fealed by the company of merchants, with the following device " Ex jnerce pulchrior^ without which they cannot tranfad any hiifinefs whatever, which is certainly a check to corruption and deceit.
The environs of Botzen are fertile, and emhellifhpd with a number of beautiful villas and villages. The foil is excellent, and vegetation much more abundant than at Trent, owing to the mildnefs of the climate, being flickered from the north wind by a chain of mountains, whofe direction extends from caft to weft. The wines of Leytach, Leyfer, and Rentfch, are much eiteemed. There are alfo hot baths at a mile from that city, called Campden.
The valley of Botzen might furnifh the Naturalift with a cabinet of lithology and botany, as the banks of the rivers which crofs the plain, fituated at the extremity of the four vallies, are covered with curious ftones and foflils, productions of the high Alps, viz. quartz of different colours, a variety of petro-filex, feld-fpath, jafper, chryftals, granites, mica, porphyry, and filaments of amiant, fixed to pieces of felenitae, of the fiftieth fpecies of Wallerius, which he calls Selemtes Flavus; befides many others too numerous for particular notice. As for the amateurs of botany, they will find themfelves furrounded by Alpine plants, viz. the charming Cyclamen Coum of Linnaeus, as alfo his Anemone Hepatica, Anemone Narcifliflora, Hyacenthus Racemofus, and Scandix Odorata; the An-tipathe di quarta fpecie, the Cariofillate Alpina Minore, the Veronica Petria of Giovanni Pona, &c. I would, therefore, particularly recommend thofe four vallies for the infpec-tion of the Naturalift, as deferving his attention.
SECTION
THE   RHiETI AN ALPS.
SECTION V.
departure from botzen, or bolsano—arrival at the  city of brixen,  which is the capital of that bishopric — general observations  on its form of government—description of the primitive mountains connected with the road from botzen to sterzing — ascent of mount brenner*
Arrivi NG at Botzen earlier than i expected, i had time, before dufk, to visit the environs of that city; as alfo to gain the information i wifhed concerning the vallies of Talfer and Venofta, deferring, till the next day, feeing what was moft worthy notice towards the eaft of Botzen, that i might not be hurried in the obfervations i propofed making that evening. As i wifhed, in the firft place, to take the elevation of the valley of Botzen, i made ufe of my barometer, conftructed according to Moniieur De Luc's principles, as i have already had occafion to mention, being desirous of certifying the exifting difference between the height of that valley and the fummit of mount Brenner* The reafon i preferred that ftation was owing to its being nearly a quarter of the height of the mount, and becaufe it would aflift me considerably in taking its elevation when on the fpot.
In order to be more accurate in my calculations, i quitted the city, and afcended a fmall eminence, on which is fituated the church of Gries and where the atmofphcre was perfectly clear; becaufe the vapours, that rife in confequcnce of the intenfc heat which is felt before fun-fet in all the cities near the bafe of the Alps, would naturally have affected the thermometer of correction, as alfo the barometer. i found that the eminence where i then flood was 1266 feet and two-thirds above the level of the fea; from which deducting 54 feet and a half, which was the height i had chofen for my ftation, i concluded that the city of Botzen was fituated 1 212 feet and one fixth above the level of the fea.
Having fo far accomplished my undertaking, i defcended into the valley of Talfer, in order to walk on the banks of the torrent which crofles it, and from which it takes its name. i perceived them to be covered with large pieces of ftone of different fpecies, which had been hurled by the force of the torrent from the High Alps, and which are too numerous to particularize; i will, therefore, only defcribe two forts, which attracted my attention from their peculiar appearance.
L The
The firft, however, furprized me lefs than the fecond, having feen fome nearly the fame in the Maritime Alps, of the county of Nice.   It is a calcareous grey ftone, of a fine grain, and ftuck as it were to pieces of reddifti granites, fpotted with black and white, refembling thofe which come from Tufcany.   Some of them, whofe angles had been broken by the friction they had fuffered in the velocity of their defcent, from the high and tremendous peaks, from which they had been detached by the rains and thaws, had already taken an even circular form, leaving perfectly clear the place of union betwixt the calcareous ftone and the granite, which are entirely different in their effects and in their principles.    The fecond attracted my particular notice, as I could not diftinguifh what it was:  it appeared to be a fpecies of white calcareous ftone, the grain as fine as the firft, not unlike marble, although emitting fparks of fire when ftruck by fteel.   I had already found feveral fimilar to thefe near the fort of Chiufa, and in the road between Trent and Botzen.    They did not referable any fpecies of quartz, or vitrefcent ftones; I was, therefore, in doubt how to clafs them: but fuppofing that they contained particles of quartz fufficient to produce the appearance of the fparks I had feen, I was led to imagine that they would effervefce with acids; for which reafon, I determined to collect fome pieces on purpofe to try the experiment.
These obfervations taking more time than I intended, night ftole on imperceptibly, before I had an idea of leaving the banks of the Talfer. It was, however, neceflary to haften my return to Botzen. In my way thither, holding the ftones in my hand, I accidentally rubbed them one againft the other, when, to my great aftonifhmcnt, there iffued a kind of phofphorus light, with no very difagreeable fmell; but, having afterwards feraped them with my knife, a ftreak of light iffued from the fcrapings, which being both curious and uncommon, put me in mind of a memorial written by Monfieur Dufay to the Academy at Paris, in 1730, wherein he obferves, that there are fpecies of calcareous ftones, marbles, and gypfum, or plafter-ftonc, which frequently emit a phofphorus light.
At my arrival at the inn, I immediately threw fome fpirits of nitre on one of the pieces I had brought with me ; but finding that it did not effervefce, I began to fuppofe it a fpecies of quartz, which Wallerius terms " ^uartzum opacum fragile et rigidumT Not being, however, perfectly fatisfied with that trial, I pounded fome pieces of the ftone, and then threw in fome more nitre, which I had warmed, and immediately difcovered that the powder effervefced confiderably, which confirmed me in my former opinion, that thefe ftones were calcareous, but of a fpecies I was entirely unacquainted with.
At the time I firft propofed publifhing thefe travels, I read, with infinite fatisfadion, a letter from Monfieur Deodat de Dolomieu to Monfieur Picot de la Peyroufe, in the Journal de Phyfique, for the month of July, 1791, wherein he particularly mentions the ftones I have been defcribing, having made the fame route fome time after me; and,
as
THE   RH7ETI AN   ALPS. 43
as that Naturalift terms them phofphorus calcareous ftones, I fhall make ufe of the fame term whenever I have occafion to fpeak of them.
I have been led to enlarge on this fubjecr, being defirous of giving every information in my power to thofe who wifh (when in that part of the world) to fatisfy their curiofity, and procure themfelves fpecimens of what i have defcribed; as alfo to prove that it is impoiiible to decide with certainty, whether a ftone is calcareous, by the effect, of acids, without firft reducing it to powder; and that the fame fpecies of ftone will frequently emit fparks of fire when ftruck by fteel, particularly when its pores are contraded, it being entirely owing to the ftrong coherency of the particles that thofe effects are produced.
The evening being fine, and the weather apparently fettled, I pleafed myfelf with the idea of rifing the next morning by day-break, in hopes of enjoying the pleafurc of exploring the country, and walking, for fome hours, before the carriage could poffibly overtake me. Having thus fettled my plan, I informed my fellow traveller, the late Doctor Briant, a man of merit and underftanding, belonging to the fuite of his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Gloucester, of my intention; for fear of caufing him fome uneafi-nefs, by my fudden and unexpected departure. Rifing at the time I propofed, I fet off, after taking fome refrefhment, and was considerably on my way, when the glorious luminary of the day had fcarcely darted its beams through the rugged oprnings of the mounts Rofen, Garten, Duhel, and Tafea, which arc fituated to the east of Botzen.
The vapours, however, that were accumulating above the horizon, being uncommonly red, I had every reafon to fear a ftorm in the courfe of the day, which would naturally impede my journey, and leave me in a moft uncomfortable fituation : but the extreme defire I had of viewing, at my eafe, fo curious and picturefque a country (which was morally impoiiible in a carriage) led me to perfift in my refolution; although I muft acknowledge that I had crofted the river Eifach, and even reached the village of Cardaun, before I had finally taken my determination; the freftinefs of the morning, however, and the beautiful fcenes which furrounded me, foon diffipated my fears, and I proceeded with alacrity.
Having crofted the Eifach, I found myfelf in a valley, the entrance to which was tolerably wide ; but it foon after contracts, fo as fcarcely to leave, in many places, room for a carriage, which renders that fpot particularly wild and romantic.
The river alfo carries with it a vaft quantity of large pieces of granite, corneus folidus, or hornftone rock, and grey and white marble, &c. which, dafhing againft the rocks that contract the courfe of the river, add greatly to the rapidity of the ftream, and caufe a tremendous noife, which prevents one's hearing any thing except the rufhing of the water.
I have
I have already obferved, that this valley is remarkably wild, but its afpccl is neither barren nor unpleafant; for the adjacent mountains are covered with firs, larch-trees, meadows, and vineyards, which form a pleafing fcene, and an agreeable contraft.
At the fmall village of Blauman I again croffed the river Eifach, to reach Tutfchen, which is a poft-town, diftant from Botzen eight Italian miles. Not far from Tutfchen is a defile, or narrow valley, nearly five miles in length; and the road is almoft the whole way cut through the rock : that pafs is particularly dangerous at the melting of the fnow, owing to the avalanges, or large heaps of fnow, which roll down from the fummits of the neighbouring mountains with great velocity, overwhelming every thing that happens to be in the way.
The inhabitants generally expect, this devaluation in the months of April and May, which is the time of the thaw; although it is felt there in a lefs dangerous degree than at mount Cenis or the Col of Tende.
In order to guard as much as poflible againft the accidents frequently occafioned by the caufe abovemcntioned, the government of Brixen has constructed feveral fmall hermitages near the road, that travellers may find a poflibility of fheltering themfelves whenever they fee thofe tremendous mafles of fnow rolling down the mountains. Each of thefe hermitages is a kind of chapel, with a portico in front. They are dedicated to different flints; but more generally to the Virgin Mary.
The inhabitants, who are extremely devout, arc continually endowing thefe chapels with gifts, and ornamenting them with fmall pictures, which they call ex voto, representing the cures they have received, and the miracles performed, through the influence of their favourite faint. They alfo, on Sundays and Feftivals, decorate the images of their faints, and crown them with a wreath of the choiceft flowers they can find, placing it on their head with every mark of religious homage and refpecr, lighting a taper on each fide of them. This latter ceremony is, however, feldom performed, except when they have a vow to accomplifh.
I propose relating an occurrence which happened to me during the prefent excursion. It will, I hope, not be deemed an improper digreflion, as it will fhew the natural fimplicity and character of the inhabitants.
I have already acquainted my readers that, at my firft fetting out in the morning, the appearance of the atmofphere gave me rcafon to apprehend that there would be a ftorm in the courfe of the day: my fears were realized, and indeed earlier than I expected.
By nine o'clock, I had walked upwards of twelve miles; and, not perceiving the carriage, I gave myfelf up entirely to the pleafure of admiring the innumerable beauties which furrounded me, both in refpect to botany and lithology. At every ftcp I took, fome curious plant or other attracted my notice; among which were difcernible the
elegant
elegant Gentiana Purpurea, the Gcntiana Punctata, the Epilobium Alpinum, and the Campanula Carpatica of Linnams; as alfo the humble Tuiiilago Alpina Flore-evanido of Chufio, 8cc.   The rocks were tremendous, fhelving over on all fides.
The different fpecies of ftrata of which thefe rocks were compofed, and their extraordinary appearance, took up all my attention : fome of them were a mixture of quartz and mica, of the 164th fpecies of Wallerius, which he terms Saxum mixtum a?taticum\ and here and there I found their ftrata, or beds, nearly perpendicular : others were compofed of heaps or pieces of granite, piled one upon another, intermixed with marbles of various colours and banks of hornftone, of the 143 fpecies of Wallerins, named Corneus fijftlis: it is, therefore, not to be wondered at, if I was infenfible of the danger that threatened me, furrounded as I was by fuch a variety of natural curiofities, and in a valley which, all the way from the fmall village of Antlas, was fo remarkably contracted by the fhelving rocks on each fide that I could only fee a fmall portion of the fky. I was, however, fuddenly roufed from my contemplations, by a whirlwind which carried clouds of duft along the valley, and covered me in an inftant; the fky darkened, and large drops of rain fell with fuch impetuofity, that I took it for hail; whilft the thunder, rumbling at a diftance, and re-echoed by the furrounding rocks, appeared to threaten immediate deftruction. That moment was certainly the moft awful I ever experienced, finding myfelf alone, and a perfect ftranger in a country, where I could but indifferently fpeak or under-ftand their language, which is in general German; yet I ftill proceeded with hafty fteps, not knowing whither I was going, or where to find an afylum. The tempeft increasing, and the horrors accumulating, I gave myfelf up for loft; when, fortunately, I perceived one of the hermitages I have already defcribed, which was nearly cut in the rock, refembling a cave, fufficiently large to afford protection to the affrighted traveller. Thofe who have crofted the Alps will eafily conceive that my fears were not imaginary, as they muft have encountered fimilar danger, and know the fatal confequence.
Having precipitately entered the hermitage or cave, fuppofing myfelf quite alone, I was ftartled at hearing a figh, which feemed to iffue from the extremity of it; and, turning haftily, I faw a young woman at her devotions, feemingly fupplicating an image which represented the Virgin Mary, and in the act of crowning it with a wreath of flowers, while a taper burned on each fide of it. Whether owing to the unexpected furprize of feeing me, or becaufe the image was beyond her reach, I could not determine; but fhe was obliged to give up the attempt. I ventured to approach and offer her my afliftance; at the fame time, fearing that I might alarm her, I explained in the beft manner I could the caufe of my taking refuge in a place which appeared to be allotted entirely to acts of devotion.  As foon as fhe had fufficiently got the better of her aftonifh-
M ment
mcnt fhe related an affecting tale in terms full of candour and fimplicity.   She told me, that her name was Anna; that fhe lived in the village of Sander, near the valley of Zargin; that fhe came every year to accomplish a vow fhe had made for her father's recovery, who was a miner, and had been taken from under one of the galleries, where he was at work, apparently dead.   She added, that fhe was fifteen when the accident happened, which was three years fince, and that fhe had never miffed coming at the ftated period.   I was fo enchanted with this good girl's fimple narrative, that I again entreated her to let me place the wreath of flowers on the Virgin's head; but fhe modeftly declined, faying, that fhe expected her brother, who was gone to Zimerlehen* a village not far diftant; that he had promifed her faithfully to return before the tapers were expired; then, cafting a wifhful look at them, and heaving a figh, fhe faid, that fhe feared the ftorm had detained him, but that fhe hoped no harm would happen to him.
The thunder ftill continued rumbling over our heads in a molt terrific manner t the flafhes of lightning were more frequent, appearing inceffantly as if crofling the defile, and nearly entering our place of refuge; whilft the rain, falling in torrents from the rocks, carried with it immenfe pieces of ftone, which, from the velocity with which they fell, fhivered into a thoufand pieces, and added greatly to the horror of the fcene. Anna, perceiving that the lights were nearly out, and that fhe fhould be prevented from accomplifhing her vow, requested me, at laft, to afiifl her in placing the flowers, which I had jult accomplished, when we heard the approach of a carriage, which proved to be the one I expected. I had, however, the fatisfaction of gaining fome intelligence, from the poft-boy, of her brother, who hnd paffed him on the road : I was, therefore, releafed from the painful neceflity of leaving that poor and amiable girl by herfelf in fo folitary a fituation, which the ftorm rendered ftill more diftrefling.
Happy people! whofe morals are as pure as their ideas are innocent. Their hands will never be fullied with the blood of their fellow creatures; for their offerings to the Divinity are of the pureft kind, conceiving that religion was meant to diffufe happinefs and comfort among mankind, ignorant of the abufes which cruel policy has introduced !
We proceeded on our journey, and foon got out of the defile. Fortunately the ftorm abated, the weather became more calm, and the clouds difappeared; yet the roads, from the violence of the rain, were filled with water, and, in fome places, dangerous. The next poft is Colman, a fmall village, with only a few fcattcred houfes. At the extremity of that village the valley widens, and forms a plain which leads to the city of Clauffen, or Claufium, in Italian Chiufa. It is built on a folitary rock, and is watered on the fouth-eaft by the river Eifach.
The
t
The city is divided by the torrent Thinner, which defcends from a valley of the fame name, fituated to the north; for which reafon the city is diftinguifhed by Upper and Lower Clauffen.
Mount Mayrbodele, which is on the left, contracts the valley in that part, and makes it refemble the Pafs of Clufe, in going to the Glaciers in Savoy. They are both fituated at the entrance of the High Alps. Their names are alfo analogous; as I have had occa-fion to mention, when fpeaking of the Pafs of Chiufa.
The city of ClaufTen is in the bifhopric of Brixen. The inhabitants, although induf-trious, are not fuppofed to be fo opulent as thofe of Botzen. I was forry that want of time prevented my feeing fome lead and copper mines, which they are working in its environs. There are alfo fome hot baths and mineral fprings, which are reforted to by ftrangers in the fummer.
On quitting ClaufTen we pafTed by the foot of a hill, which is a continuation of mount Kuhberg, where is fituated an extenfive convent, called Saben, built on the ruins of the palace of the ancient bifhops of Brixen: for, till the twelfth century, they refided in that city; but, afterwards, the epifcopal fee was removed to Brixen. It is the general opinion, that on that fpot originally flood the city of Sabiona, which was destroyed by Attila.
The environs of Clauflen, and the adjacent country, are fertile, picturefque, and well cultivated. Several fmall vallies, viz. Villnefer, AfTerer, &c. offer to the eye many interefting and pleafing views; whilft, on the back ground, a range of mountains of an immenfe height terminates the limits of the horizon.
The naked and rugged peaks of the mounts Lorenzen, Fartfchel, and Tfchafatfeh, raife their towering heads towards the north-weft; and, on the fouth-eaft, are thofe of Glander, Schlofs, Pragls, and Pallanfer. Their fummits are entirely bare, and feem to be compofed of granite.
The next city, which is Brixen, is feated at the extremity of a fmall plain, at the entrance of three vallies, and at the confluence of two rivers, the Eifach and the Rients. The plain is contracted by extenfive mountains, not unlike the fituation of Botzen, whence it is diftant nearly thirty miles. This city, called by the Italians BrefTanone, and by the Germans Brixen, is the capital of the bifhopric of that name, which extends ninety miles from eaft to weft, and fifty-five from north to fouth. It is fituated between the county of Tyrol, the bifhopric of Trent, the States of Venice, and the archbifhopric of Salzbourg.
Brixen has nothing deferving the attention of the traveller, except its cathedral, of which the architecture is good, and well finished. The houfes are tolerably well built, and moftly painted on the outfide, which gives them an appearance of neatnefs, and
looks
looks uniform and pleasing. The inhabitants are industrious, travel much, and are moftly in the commercial line*
The Bifhop, who is Prince and Sovereign of his dominions, refides in this city, which is very ancient. What I have mentioned, with regard to the government of the bifhopric of Trent, may, in a great meafure, be applied to this; except that the Bifhop and Chapter of Brixen did not originally give themfelves up to the power of the Counts of Tyrol; for they referved the power of renewing annually their grant, and were alfo to be looked upon as allies at the different diets; agreeing, however, to fhare equally in defraying the expences incurred for the prefervation of the State. Befides thofe privileges, the bifhopric is considered as forming part of the Austrian circle, and gives a right of fuffrage to the metropolis of Salzbourg; but as the Counts of Tyrol are the vidamss, or judges of the temporal jurisdiction of that bifhopric, they poffefs feveral feodal tenures. The Canons, who compofc the Chapter, have the power of electing their Bifhop. They are divided into two distinct claffes, nine of them are to trace the origin of their nobility for four generations, both on the father and mother's fide. The others, which are twelve, muft either be doctors or licentiates in theology.
The city of Brixen was formerly known by the name of Antonius Sublabio\ and in the year 360, of our era, Pope Damafe fent the Abbe Caffien to propagate the gofpel in thofe parts; but, as the Sovereign's refidence was at Sabiona, it was there that the Prelate firft chofe to cftablifh the tenets of Christianity. He erected a church, of which there are ftill fome remains. Brixen is alfo noted in hiftory for a council held there in July 1080, which was convened by the Emperor Henry IV. furnamed the Great, consisting of thirty Bifhops, his parti fans, who not only maintained the rights of that Prince against Pope Gregory VII. who had excommunicated him, but they even depofed the Pontiff, appointing, as his fucceffor, the Archbifhop of Ravcnnc, known by the name of Clement IV. (Sec the Chron. Baronius of L'Abbe Urfberg.)
The torrent of Rients, which falls into the Eifach, at the gates of Brixen, is more considerable than that river, and defcends from the high mountains which border the county of Tyrol towards Corinthia. It afterwards croffes the extenfive valley of Putter, or Puftriffa, which extends fifteen miles to the cast of the pafs of Muchlbach.
This valley is extremely rich in wood and pafturage, and contains two towns, Brunncch and Licnz, which are tolerably extenfive. The latter is not only ancient, but noted for being, in 1500, the burial-place of Leonard, the laft Count of Gcertz, and Sovereign of the valley of Pufter, which afterwards devolved upon the houfe of Austria.
This valley contains a number of villages, hamlets, Sec. Its inhabitants arc the moft opulent proprietors of the county of Tyrol, for each individual cultivates his own land.
The
The city of Brixen is nearly furrounded by hot mineral fprings; fome of them are fulphureous, others aluminous, metallic, &c. The inhabitants attribute the heat of thofe waters to fome fubterraneous caufe, or extinguished volcanos; for they allured me, that there were vaft quantities of volcanic productions found in the environs of the baths, and that earthquakes were very frequent with them; but want of time prevented me from convincing myfelf of the truth of their affertions.
It is to be wifhed that fome enlightened Naturalift could be tempted to explore the environs of that city, as it might tend to throw frefh light on the ftudy of geology; particularly as feveral fcientific men have vifited the major part of the Pennine Alps, and have not been able to difcover any.
From Brixen the river Riantz and the valley of Pufter are pafTed on the right, and three miles from thence one quits the Archbifhop's dominions. After palling a fmall gtiard-houfe, which ferves as a barrier to the county of Tyrol, the road begins to rife gradually, and one may there fix the firft gradation towards the afcent of the Great Brenner. Owing to its being remarkably contracted on the left by the adjacent mountains, a bridge has been built acrofs the Eifach, in order to continue the road on the other fide of the river, which afterwards palTes at the foot of a large foreft of firs and larch trees, that entirely conceal the bafe of a chain of mountains which defcend from the fummit of the Brenner, called Spingefer. From thence the next poft is Mittlewald, fituated beyond the centre of the foreft. Mittlewald is a fmall village, with a few fcattered wooden cottages, in the nature of thofe belonging to the inhabitants of the High Alps.
The road from Mittlewald to Mauls is nearly the fame as from the Barrier, yet there are, now and then, fome agreeable openings, which offer to the eye romantic and picturefque views.
The Eifach alfo adds greatly to the beauty of the fcene; for, its motion being much more accelerated than in the vallies of Trent and Bolfano, its waves dafh impetuoufly againft prodigious mafles of granite, and marble of various colours, which, checking its courfe, form a number of beautiful cafcades. At fome diftance from the village of Mauls is the church of Trens, dedicated to the Virgin, whither the inhabitants frequently perform pilgrimage. Not far from the church is fituated, on a fmall eminence, the caftle of Sprcchenftein, which feems to be the key to the whole valley, from Brixen to Trens; one then croffes the Eifach, at the foot of the caftle, which is a mile and a half from Sterzinn-, where we arrived late in the evening.
N
SECTION
SECTION VI.
description of the environs of the city of sterzing, and of the vallies ridnaun
and   pflerscher — excursion  to   the   great   glacier  of   stuben - its
elevation above the level of the sea — passage across the brenner — height of  that mountain— t arrival at  steinach.
IT being near ten when we arrived at Sterzing, I had only time to fettle my journal, arrange the obfervations I had made lince I left Botzen, and fix my plan for the next day.   I had gained the moft pleating intelligence of the environs of that city, from a friend whom I had met at Verona, and who particularly mentioned the vallies of Ridnaun and Pflerfcher as deferving notice, becaufe they contained feveral different mines, and a great number of curious Alpine plants.   He alfo informed me, that their direction was nearly from eaft to weft, and that they were terminated by the great Glaciers of Hocher, Stuben, and Grindl Farner, &c.   Being fo far instructed, my firft care was to find a perfon well acquainted with the country, who could give me further information, and affift me in procuring a guide to conduct me to the neareft Glacier.   I therefore addreffed myfelf to the inn-keeper, who fpoke both French and Italian, requefting him to get a perfon to attend me the next morning, on my intended excursion; upon which he introduced me to a neighbour, who, with all the appearance of a plain honeft mountaineer, was well informed.   He told me that he was a miner, and that he had not only Worked himfelf in the mines, but that he had been appointed by government as an overfeer to feveral.   The knowledge and talents which I foon after found he poffeffed, convinced me that he had not deceived me.
I asked him whether he had ever feen the Glaciers which were in the environs of that city ? He faid, that he was perfectly well acquainted with them, having frequently been there; that he had alfo vifited thofe of Savoy and Switzerland, having had occafion to crofs the great St. Bernard, in his way to Geneva. He told me that he went there on bulinefs ; but, on defcending that tremendous mount, he had been tempted, not only to fee a part of the Glaciers of Tzendy and Valpeline, but alfo thofe of the valley of Cha-mouny, having taken the road leading to the Col of Balma, as being the neareft to Geneva. After this fhort introduction, which was delivered with great modefty, he invited me (in order to avoid interruption) to accompany him to his laboratory, which I
found
found in moft excellent order. From thence he took me to his cabinet of natural hiftory, which he, very properly, ftyled A box of famples of the Tyrolefe mountai?is. One may eaiily conceive that I was all aftonifhment, not having the moft diftant idea of finding fo good a collection; as it was not only extenfive but well chofen, and arranged with tafte. He had fpecimens of the moft curious ftones, chryftals, and minerals of the country; among the latter was a variety of filver ore, copper, native iron in grains, antimony, mercury, and chryftalized fait; befides foflils, petrifactions, impreflions of marine fubftances, plants, &c.
I was both delighted and amazed at meeting in a country, remote from the pur-fuits of literature and fcience, a man in fo humble a fituation, who was of fo fcientific a'turn of mind, and of a fufficient judgment to form a collection that would not difgrace our greateft Naturalifts. There is, however, a fimilar inftance in a man whofe name is Francis Pacard, refiding in the valley of Chamouny, in Savoy, known by the appellation of Guide to the Ladies: for as the valley is furrounded by a number of Glaciers, which attract the curiofity of ftrangers, and are much rcforted to in fummer, feveral of the inhabitants make it their bufinefs to ferve as guides. He is fo perfectly illiterate that he cannot read; yet he has formed a collection of the different productions of the Pennine Alps, which he has regularly claiTed, and arranged with tolerable tafte. When he is not employed as a guide, he follows his bufinefs, which is that of a farrier.
I have always remarked, and believe it to be a received opinion, that mountaineers in general are particularly quick and intelligent, conceiving with eafe whatever is taught them, and that they have a retentive memory*
On quitting the cabinet of my Tyrolefe Naturalift he offered to conduct me himfelf to any of the neighbouring Glaciers; at the fame time recommending Stuben as being well worth feeing, extenfive, eafy of accefs, and considerably nearer than the others. I immediately accepted his offer, although at firft I was fearful that bufinefs and want of time would have interrupted our plan. Having, however, fettled my affairs, and removed the obftacles which appeared to be in the way, I decided on fetting off the next morning by fix. My guide, who feemed as eager as myfelf, went out foon after to order mules, &c.: I returned to the inn to collect whatever I thought might be neceflary during our journey, viz. my barometer, which I had fortunately preferved entire, a fteel hammer, a bottle of fpirits of nitre, and a compafs. The night being uncommonly cold, although at the beginning of June, I found the eider-down, or covering on the bed, which is generally made ufe of in Germany, exceedingly comfortable; as alfo a ftove, which they had not as yet difcarded. The feverity of the weather, at that time of the year, muft be attributed to the Glaciers, which furround the city.
I was
I was awaked in the morning much earlier than I wifhed, by an uncommon noife occafioned by the country people pairing through the city, in their way to the marketplace, which is fituated on the outride of the gates of Sterzing. My curiolity being roufed, I got up juft in time to fee a number of carts or waggons pafs, loaded with fait, from the city of Hall, which were drawn by oxen, fhod like horfes, except that, owing to the form of their feet, the iron wasj of courfe, divided, which, added to their unwieldinefs, made a moil: intolerable noife.
The fun had not yet made its appearance in the valley, when I quitted the city, in order to vifit its environs. Having reached the market-place, I found the people bufily employed in erecting tents, tables, &c. at places afligned them by an officer, or constable, appointed to maintain order and regularity. The roads leading towards the city were thronged with the inhabitants of the neighbouring mountains, loaded with the produce of their industry, which they were bringing for fale ; fuch as carpets, fluffs, cloths, threads, &c< fo that it had much more the appearance of a fair than a common market-day. Others w(cre themfelves drawing fmall carts rilled with corn and vegetables, their eountenances expreffive of jollity and good-humour; the whole forming one of the molt interesting fcenes I ever beheld.
As the singularity of their drefs drew my attention, I muft not omit giving a fhort fketch of it. Both men and women wear different-coloured, large, round hats, made exactly alike ; although green fcerris to be the favourite colour, efpecially on festivals and gala-days: they ornament them with gold and filver lace, with the addition of taffels, &c. The men wear long, uncouth jackets, or waiftcoats, of the fame colour as their hats, made of coarfe cloth, which they manufacture themfelves.
The girdle, or belt, is what they esteem moft, next to the hat. I have really feen fome remarkably curious, made of thick leather, decorated with fmall filver nails, formed into a variety of figures, or devices. As for the reft of their drefs, it refembles the German, Swifs, &c.
They are in general tall and robuft, and their countenances have great strength of expreffion. The women wear a kind of loofe jacket, which they take off at pleafure, of the fame colour alfo as their hats; fo that, at fome distance, it is difficult to diflinguifh the fcx. Their corfets, of which they are particularly proud, are ornamented with gold fringe, ribbons, and black velvet. Their stockings are likewife very remarkable, being of an unufual length, feldom lefs than five feet. Thefe they plait, or roll, with the greateft exactness; a custom, which, with the fhortnefs of their petticoats, makes their legs appear to great difadvantage. I have been tempted thus to particularize their drefs, as it is generally adopted by all the Tyrolefe*
The
The city of Sterzing is the feat of the provincial jurifdiction of the diftrict. of Eifach; for the county of Tyrol is divided into fix diftri&s, as I will hereafter explain. It was formerly known by the name of Vipitenum, or Fortia Caftra, forming part of the Rhactian country. During the refidence of the Tyrolefe Counts at Infpruch, the city was well fortified; but, at prefent, there only remain its ditches, a few parapets, and its caftle, where a fmall number of foldiers are garrifoned. Its fituation is particularly pleafant, being feated on an eminence, which commands a fertile plain, where four vallies meet; but the Eifach, that croffes it, ceafes to be navigable at Brixen. The filver, copper, and iron mines, which are worked in the environs of that city, give it a commercial appearance, although fituated fo high in the Alps. Their manufactures for fwords, and various forts of tools made of fteel, are much admired. The inhabitants carry them to Germany, Italy, and France, to difpofe of. The country alfo produces, in feveral places, a great quantity of corn, &c. which occafions a conftant intercourfe with the neighbours.
The valley of Ridnaun, which is to the weft of Sterzing, takes its name from the torrent that croiTes it, and throws itfelf into the Eifach * at the foot of the caftle of Sprechenftein. This valley extends nearly eight miles from fouth-eaft to north-weft, and is terminated by the Glacier of Hocher, which is difcernible from the environs of that city. It is well inhabited, and particularly fertile, for its vegetation extends to the foot of the Glacier. To the eaft of Sterzing is the valley of Pfitfcher, which is in a fouth-weft and north-eaft direction. It is watered by a torrent of the fame name, which defcends rapidly from the great Glaciers of Zint and Furtfchtagl. This valley is not fo fertile as Ridnaun, but is as well inhabited. I fhall not attempt to particularize the lithology of thofe vallies, not having had iuffieient time to make any obfervations deferving notice. I can only add, that the lower range of mountains in the vicinity of Sterzing arc compofed of calcareous ftones, of different fpecies, with their ftrata, inclining to the fouth. The Calcareus Scintillans Grifeus, No. 42, is the moft common ; although there are fome entirely compofed of large banks, or beds, of white or dark-grey marble, fometimes intermixed with ftrata of calcareous ftone, nearly vertical, which Monfieur Bomare terms Lapis fostidtis, from its emitting a difagreeable fmell when rubbed or broken. The upper range of mountains, whofe fummits are fcarcely difcernible, are moftly granite, or a fpecies of porphyry, of a reddifh-brown colour, or Porphir Rubens, No. 99; known to the Italians by the name of Brocatello. What furprized me moft, in the appearance of thofe primordial peaks, was their being rugged and furrowed, as if they had been calcareous. I could not at firft account for that phenomenon; but I had foon an opportunity of viewing them nearer, and found that the major part of thofe mountains were covered with large ftrata of calcareous ftone.
0 I am
I am indebted to my guide for firft fuggefting to me the idea of vifiting them, and his remarks led me to make thofe obfervations which have fince been confirmed by Monfieur De Dolomieu.   I obferved, that the calcareous ftrata in general inclined towards the fouth, forming different angles with the horizon.    I was forry that want of time prevented my convincing myfelf whether thofe ftones contained any marine fubftances. My guide aflured me that they did; but I will not attempt to affirm from report what is of fo much confequence.   It is time I fhould leave this digreflion, and quit Sterzing. I returned in hafte to the inn, where I found my guide and his equipage (for he had procured me an excellent mule) waiting for my arrival.   We had at firft fome doubts concerning the weather, the clouds appearing fufpicious; but they, fortunately for us, foon diflipated, and we prepared ourfelves to fet off.   Having flung my barometer in a kind of fhoulder-belt, for fear of accidents, we directed our courfe weftward, leaving on the left the torrent Faller, whofe noife was heard at an amazing diftance, rumbling impetuoufly at the bottom of a precipice.    We foon gained the fmall hamlet of Raminge, which is fituated on the declivity of the mountain: we propofed crofling it, to fhorten our way.    The torrent Faller, having, in feveral places, deepened upwards of three hundred feet below the furface of the earth, had caufed much of the ground to give way, leaving large gaps, or openings, where one could with eafe difcover the different ftrata of the mountain.   I obferved that the loweft ftrata was more than eighty feet in thicknefs, of a fpecies of mill ftone, or cos molaris: above that was another, upwards of twenty feet, compofed of a coarfe black fand, intermixed with feveral pieces of quartz, feldfpath, granite, and marble, befides pebbles of different kinds. The next ftratum was a fpecies of fandy flate, or cos fiffilis partkulis mmoribus fpe. 142, which extended to the vegetable ftratum.    This fpot opens a wide field for the obfervations of a Geologift; particularly if foflils and marine fubftances can be difcovered.
On leaving Raminge, we continued our courfe by the fide of a large foreft of firs, where we found feveral Alpine plants, fcattered here and there; viz. the charming Cen-taurea Montana, Soldanella Alpina, Veronica Alpina, and the Horminum Pyrenaicum. The laft I have never been able to meet with on any of the mountains of Savoy or Switzerland. There was alfo a great variety of other plants, whofe diverfified colours attracted our notice. After a very laborious afcent, we reached at laft the fummit of the mountain, which was entirely covered with rcfinous trees; fuch as larch, firs, wild pines, &c. We then defcended into the gloomy valley of Fallming, which is much more wild and agreftic than the one we had croffed in our way thither. From thence we followed the courfe of another large torrent, which takes its fource at the foot of mount Taffer. The range of mountains on the left, which are of a prodigious height, were moftly formed of different forts of compound ftones, or lapides compofiti: whilft thofe on
the
the right, which are not fo elevated, were nearly calcareous, or a fpecies of fchiflus, which efTervefces with acids. We were obliged to difmount and lead our mules the whole way, owing to the badnefs of the roads.
After much fatigue we arrived in the valley of Pflerfcher, which is nearly in a parallel direction with that of Ridnaun. Its extension is about fix miles, containing feveral different mines. Thofe of filver, although not reckoned the moft productive, amply repay government for the expence of working them. This valley offers a fimilar example to that of Val de Mont-Joie, mentioned by Monfieur de SauiTure, chap. xxvi. vol. iii. of his Voyage in the Alps : for the torrent Pflerfcher, which crofles the valley, makes a total feparation between the primordial and fecondary mountains.
Those which are towards the north, being mostly compofed of granite, or rock ftone, of different kinds, have their fummits perfectly bare and rugged, refembling thofe of the fecondary mountains, when particularly elevated. Whilft, on the contrary, thofe that are in a fouthern direction are, for the moft part, calcareous or fchiftus, and effervefce with acids; but their fummits are covered with trees and meadows.
Although we had met with many difficulties near the torrent of Fallming, we arrived before twelve at the village of Pflerfch, which is the principal town in the valley. The houfes refemble thofe of Switzerland, being built of wood, with feveral galleries one above the other, which nearly furround the building; but with all the neatnefs, and convenience, analogous to the comfortable appearance of the inhabitants, who, without affluence, live in great eafe: for I did not difcover in the whole valley an individual who appeared in want; or any of thofe miferable objects who are the emblems of wretchednefs and woe, fo frequently met with in countries where the humble cottage is crufhed beneath the weight of columns and pedeftals, which ferve to ornament the ftately edifices of the rich. Happy people! Your felicity will be durable, fince it depends on the integrity and honefty of your hearts, and the purity of your morals, guarded by the justice of your laws, and the lenity with which they arc administered!
It is certain that a country apparently poor contains lefs real mifery than one which, at firft view, appears more opulent: for, in the firft, wealth being more equally divided, its inhabitants of courfe preserve their morals untainted, and retain that degree of firm-nefs and fteadinefs which is characteristic of man in his natural ftate; whilft the inferior clafs of the fecond, owing to the inequality of riches, are frequently obliged to bend to the wifhes of the opulent, who often avail themfelves of their fuperiority, to corrupt their innocence and integrity. The village of Pflerfch, where we took fome refrefhment, is feated at the foot of the high primordial mountains, Tributaun, Eifcn, and Roth. From thence we proceeded on foot, being under the neceflity of leaving our mules, on account of the badnefs of the road, towards Lower Stein, which is a fmall hamlet,
fituated
fituated at die bottom of a high mountain, compofed of granite, and covered with extenfive banks of phofphorus marble.    On the top of it is built Upper Stein, which, from that eminence, extends apparently to the foot of the Glacier, although there is nearly the difference of a mile and a half; for distances in a mountainous country deceive one considerably, Owing to the rarefaction of the air.    Oppofite to us was a fteep mountain, compofed of a reddifh porphyry, fpotted with black and yellow, of which the ftrata were perfectly difcernible to be in a parallel direction.   We now began to find a fcarcity of vegetation, there being only a few yew-trees fcattcred here and there, owing to our elevated fituation, and the intenfe cold occafioned by the vaft heaps of ice with which We were furrounded.    This fpot is, without doubt, the moft wild and barren of any I have ever feen in the Alps.   After great fatigue we reached the foot of the Glacier, where the ton cut Pflerfch flows rapidly from beneath a cavern of ice, forming nearly half an elliptical figure; the entrance being nineteen feet wide, and the height thirty.    The pyramids of ice, which furrounded the cave, were upwards of fifty feet high, rifing majeftically, one behind the other, in the form of an amphitheatre, extending to the top of the Glacier, which is two hundred and fifty feet above the fource of the torrent.    My guide informed me that, in the midft of fummer, the cavern is more extenfive, prefenting a moft awful and magnificent fcene.
Having fatisfied my curiofity at the foot of the Glacier, and taken its elevation, which I found to be 4692 feet above the level of the fea: I propofed to my guide to fix on a fpot from which we might difcern more of its fur face. Pie immediately pointed out a large rock of granite, frying, that from thence we fhould have an extenfive view; but that its accefs was particularly difficult. Accuftomed, however, as we both were to exploring, not only mountains but Glaciers, we determined to proceed. After fome labour and fatigue we reached a grafs-plot remarkably fmooth and ilippcry (it being a kind of grafs peculiar to elevated situations). From thence we foon got on the fnow, upon which wc were obliged to walk upwards of an hour, with much difficulty; for, in feveral places, it was more than half thawed; and in others fo extremely dangerous, that, had our feet given way, we muft inevitably have fallen into a dreadful precipice, formed by the torrent. Pflerfcher, and muft have been cut to pieces before we had reached the bottom. Fortunately our cramp irons preferved our lives, and aflifted us in efcaping that misfortune.
The place we had chofen, and with fuch difficulty attained, was 300 feet above the fource of the torrent, and 4992 above the level of the fea. Our trouble was, however, fully repaid by the noble and extenfive view we had of the Glacier, whofe direction appeared to be from north-caft to fouth-weft; but it was impoiiible to determine to a certainty its precife extent.   The guide, who had been there frequently, and had feen the
greateft
greateft part of it, afTured me, that it was nearly fifteen miles from eaft to weft. A chain of rugged mountains compofed of granite, of which fome were partly covered with a kind of phofphorous calcareous ftone, feemed to crofs the middle of the Glacier from north to fouth.
The furface of the Glacier was extremely uneven, and parted in many places, forming large gaps, or crevices, of upwards of fix feet. Immenfe heaps of ice alfo prefented themfelves to the eye, in various fhapes, of beautiful pyramids, of a considerable height, which, reflecting the beams of the fun, appeared of a fine azure blue, forming a pleating contrail: with the aridity of the rocks which furrounded them.
We were obliged to quit this fpot fooner than I wifhed; for the mountains, which ferved as conductors to the clouds, attracting them imperceptibly, would in a fhort time have covered not only the valley of ice, which was below, but the whole of our way back, and have rendered our return both difficult and dangerous.
The cold was exceflive for that time of the year, although we were 432 feet lefs elevated than the Glaciers des Bois, near the valley of Chamouni; but I attributed it to the vaft quantities of ice, which abound more in the Rhaetian Alps, than in the Pennine Alps; for, in the vicinity of thefe Glaciers, there is not the leaft appearance of vegetation. In about three quarters of an hour we quitted this folitary fpot, which is really a picture of defolation and horror. I could neither difcover plants, fhrubs, or animals, or infects, except two butterflies, at too great a diftance for me to judge of their fpecies.
The Rhododendron Hirfutum was the firft fhrub we met with in our way back; but I faw feveral fpecies of curious mofs. At two miles from thence we entered a foreft of firs, which extended to the torrent Kor, the banks of which led us to Pflerfch, where we arrived fatigued, although perfectly fatisfied with our excursion. The environs of that village appeared as cheerful and agreeable, as the country we had left was arid and folitary.
After retting a fhort time we mounted our mules (which we had left there as we went), and continued our courfe towards the village of GofTenfafs, and got into the high road, leaving, unfeen, the mines that are in the valley of Pflerfcher, intending to flecp at Steinach, eighteen miles from thence, as it was too late to admit of that delay. My guide accompanied me to Brenner, a fmall village, fituated near the fummit of the mount, where I met my horfe, which had been fent from Sterzing.
The afcent of the Brenner from the laft-mentioned town is exceflively difficult, and the road fo contracted, by the high and tremendous rocks on each fide, that it has been found neccfTary to construct feveral bridges on the Eifach, in order frequently to crofs that river.
P There
There are fome mineral fprings two miles from the fummit of the mountain, which are only reforted to by the neighbouring inhabitants.
I found much of the adjacent country covered with fnow, and particularly the peaks that border the road, which I was not furprized at, when I had taken its elevation, which I effected before my guide left me, as he anxioufly requefled to be prefent.
I took the elevation of the mount from oppofite the fource of the Eifach, and found that it was 3896 feet and 5-61I1S above the city of Botzen, 417 above the fource of the Pflerfcher (which is at the foot of the Glacier of Stuben), and 5109 above the level of the fea. I will not, however, vouch for the exactnefs of the meafure of thofe elevations, although I endeavoured to take them with the greateft accuracy; but, owing to my having only one inftrument proper for the undertaking, and not any one to make obfervations at the fame time, in any determined fpot, they may probably be liable to fome fmall incorrectnefs.
There are few trees on the Brenner, except a few yews and ftunted pines; but the pafturage is rich, although its fituation will not admit of the growth of corn.
A small plain, of a mile and a half in length, and nearly one in width, bordered on each fide by huge arid rocks, of which parts are continually covered with fnow, forms the fummit of the mountain. The major part of thofe rocks is compofed of granite, or rock ftone, compounded of glimmer, quartz, and fpar.
This plain, or more properly valley, is exceflively rural and pleafant, with a few fcattered cottages, which put me in mind of Chamouni. On the left of the valley is a beautiful enfcarle.    This is tVie (cmrne of the F.ifnrh, which* after joining the Adige at
Botzen, throws itfelf into the Adriatic fea. Near this cafcade is the fource of the river Sill, which falls into the Inn, and from thence into the Danube; fo that this valley ferves as a boundary and divifion to thofe two rivers.
Having crofted the torrent Weifen we began to defcend rapidly towards Gries, which is the firft village from the fummit of mount Brenner, leading to Infpruck. On the road I paffed a column, or pedeftal, erected in honour of Charlemagne and his brother Ferdinand, who had not met fince the departure of that Emperor for Africa, till he
returned victorious in the year 1545; but, owing to the darknefs of the evening, I was
prevented feeing both the infcription and bafs-relicfs, which I was told were curious. I was forced to haften towards Steinach, where I propofed fleeping, and where I arrived
perfectly fafe, although exceflively fatigued, having travelled that day on foot and horfe-
back, through bad roads, between fifty and fixty miles.
SECTION
THE   RH-dTI AN ALPS.
SECTION VII.
departure   from   steinach — arrival   at   inspruck — general observations on
the   origin   and   form  of   government   of   the   county  of tyrol_
description of that country — its extent, mountains, and  different productions —remarks  on the manners and customs of the tyrolese*
The town or borough of* Steinach is the feat of government of the diftrict of the fame name, which only contains four vallies. Its fituation is as pleafant, and the country as well cultivated, as Sterzing and its environs, although much more elevated.
The town is at the confluence of two rivers, viz. the Sill, which takes its fource, as we have feen, on the top of mount Brenner, and the Gfchniz, which rifes at the foot of Spiz-fiming, a high mountain, fituated to the north of the Glacier Stuben. This river crolTes a valley of the fame name, which is populous and rich in paflurage. Its courfe extends from north-eaft to fouth-weft.
Steinach is feated nearly in the centre of the higheft mountains in the county of Tyrol.   Towards the eaft, is feen, rifing majeftically from the midft of a long chain of Glaciers, extending from north-eaft to fouth-weft, the great and lofty Gefrorne, which feems to vie in point of height with mount Blanc.   This enormous mountain of granite is continually covered with fnow, and is one of the higheft peaks in the Rhaetian Alps. The chain of Glaciers, which I have juft mentioned, are known by the name of Duxer, and extend upwards of ten miles*   The inhabitants of the vallies, fituated at the foot of thefe tremendous heaps of ice, occupy and fupport themfelves chiefly in fearching for chryftals of different fpecies, which are found there in great abundance.   I have feen fome that refemble Spath-jluores oclaedre, one inch in diameter, of a bright red colour, as alfo rock chryftals, or chryjlalius montana, that weighed upwards of four pounds.
Towards the weft of Steinach rifes mount Habich-fpiz, which although not fo high as the Gefrorne, is yet continually covered with fnow. Not far from its fummit, on one of its fractured fides, is feen a fmall Glacier \ but the name I could not learn. In a fouth-weft direction ftands mount Tributaun, one of the moft elevated peaks belonging to that chain of mountains which form the Great Brenner.
I shall
I shall forbear to particularize a number of others, which, although they feem to ferve as a bafe to thofe I have already mentioned, are, notwithftanding, of a prodigious height.
I will only add fome flight obfervations on the direction of the vallies, fituated north and fouth of the Brenner, as alfo on the relative height of the mountains on each fide of it. I have obferved in general that moft of the fmall vallies towards the north extend from north to fouth, and from fouth to north; but the large ones from north-eaft to fouth-weft: whilft, towards the fouth, the large, as well as the fmall ones, take a contrary direction. The different direction, and appearances of the mountains, are alfo very confpicuous; for the higheft and moft rugged peaks, and the moft extenfive Glaciers, are north of the Brenner. Thofe towards the fouth are not fo high, Containing moftly a great quantity of foflils and impreffions of marine fubftances: they are alfo, in general, cultivated and wooded to the top.
I particularly recommend to the geologift to beftow fome attention on the above obfervations, and alfo on the following, as they may tend to induce naturalifts, who propofc vifiting thofe mountains, to obferve them more attentively than they might otherwife be led to do, as by thofe means they may be enabled to throw frefh light on the ftudy of geology. Firft, I found that the part of the primordial chain of mountains in the Rluetian Alps which I vifited is covered with large calcareous beds, or ftrata, inclining from north-eaft to fouth-weft.—Secondly, That the fecondary mountains contain, in feveral places, beds of white or grey phofphorous marble, of a fpecies which does not readily effervefce with acids, except when reduced to powder. — Thirdly, That there alfo exift in the vicinity of mount Baldo calcareous mountains, filled with marine fubftances of different fpecies, fupported, as it were, by large beds of marble, of calcareous ftone, of a fine grain, in which I did not difcover any marine bodies. — Fourthly, That there are feveral hot mineral fprings between St. Michael and the fummit of mount Brenner, the major part of which is fulphureous. — Fifthly, That on the banks, or beds of fome of the torrents, which take their fource in the High Alps, are found fragments of ftones, refembling lava, or bafaltes, which brings it nearly to a certainty that there have formerly been volcanos in fome part of thofe Alps.
I quitted Steinach after fome few hours repofe; and, as I arofe betimes, decided on walking to Schonberg, which is the next poft, or elfe to proceed to the city of In-fpruck, being induced fo to do by the beauty of the morning, and the ferenity of the atmofphere, accompanied with a refrefliing breeze after a gentle rain, which had fallen in the night; and, from the goodnefs of the road, I concluded it would not be fatiguing; more efpecially as it was on a gradual defcent to the city,   I, therefore, fet off before the
early
early hours of fun-rife had paffed away. The morning fpread upon the mountains thofe velvet lights, which foon after took a more vivid hue, and the vapours, forming a tranf-parent medium, began to difcover through their thinner veil a fine purple tint, which had overfpread the tops of the mountains; and is one of the moft pleafing hues that beautify thofe lofty ftations. The oppofite peaks, being covered with fnow, darted, as it were, by the reflection of the fun-beams, fparks of fire of variegated colours. All nature feemed to rejoice at the return of that glorious luminary. The aerial fongfters had already announced his approach by their delightful notes, and the rural inhabitants, by bufy preparations for their daily labour. As I approached Mattrey, a fmall town at fome diftance from Steinach, the country began to unfold frefh beauties; the hawthorn, every where in bloom, diffufed the moft fragrant odor on whatever furrounded it. I was pleafed with the bleating of the lambs, who, capering, followed their dams to the neighbouring meadows, which arc particularly beautiful, and run fhelving from the adjacent hills that border the road. Flocks of flieep were every where hanging on their green fteeps, and herds of cattle occupied the lower grounds.
The cows alfo, by their lowing, feemed to invite the milkmaid, in order to repay her cares during the winter. To add to the pleafure of the fcene, the rural and harmonious founds of the ofier flute, made ufc of by the Tyrolefe fhepherds, were heard from the neighbouring mountains, as they tended their flocks. Thofe flutes are of a peculiar con-ftruction; being no more than one inch and a half in diameter, and five or fix feet in length, conveying acrofs the country, through the craggy openings of the adjacent rocks, the moft enchanting founds. Every thing around breathed an air fo calm, and infpired fuch an idea of being fequeftered from the cares and commerce of life, that thofe feencs afforded me a thoufand charms; and I felt as if it had been the firft time of my enjoying fuch happinefs and tranquillity: though, accuftomed, as I have been, to a country fimilar to this, I had frequently experienced the fame fenfations. But the beauties of nature never fatiate thofe who know properly how to value them. Filled with admiration at the picturefque and enchanting views with which I was furrounded, I advanced much quicker than I imagined, and found myfelf imperceptibly at Mattrey; which, I have already obferved, is a fmall town, built on the fpot where formerly flood the ancient city of Matreium. This city was deftroyed by the Bavarians about the year 800. The town of Mattrey is feated on the banks of the Sill, which flows with great rapidity. It is sheltered on the oppofite fide by a huge calcareous mountain, which is remarkably fteep from its very fummit, and does not contain any marine fubftances. Soon after quitting that town, I croffed the fmall torrent of Langs, whofe ferruginous water tinges of a deep yellow the ftones which form the bed of the river, as is frequently the cafe in the Alps.   On the right I paffed the road which leads to the city of Hall, on the river
CL Inn.
Inn. From thence I proceeded to the next pole, which is Upper Schonberg, to diftinguifh it from another village of the fame name at the foot of the mountain. In the neigh-bourhood of that village the profpeel is picrurefque and beautiful, owing to its delightful and elevated fituation, being feated between the rivers Sill and Stubay, which meet under the ancient caftle of Schonberg, fo that the view takes in three vallies. The valley of Stubay is on the left, and takes its name from a river that croffes it, which rifes at the foot of Bock-Kogl, a tremendous peak, fcarcely inferior to mount Gefrorne. It is exactly oppofite to it, in the fame latitude, and alfo furrounded by extenfive Glaciers; among which are the Glamer and the Lifniger, befides feveral whofe names I am unacquainted with.
This valley extends fourteen miles, is populous and rich in wood and pafturage, and fkreened on each fide by a chain of elevated mountains. From Schonberg the defcent is rapid; but a zigzag road is contrived, that, in feveral places, is cut in the rock, which is of a lamellated texture, of different fpecies: the greateft part, however, feemed to be a kind of horn-ftone, which Wallerius terms Corneus fijfilis molliorfpe. 143.
At the foot of the mountain, on which Schonberg ftands, I crofted the river Stubay, on Zoll bridge, and then followed the courfe of the Sill, till I got near the caftle of Sonenberg, which is feated between the river and the road. From this fpot one has an extenfive and pleating profpect. of the fertile and chearful valley of Inn, in which is built the city of Infpruck. I foon found another defcent, nearly as rapid as the firft, of more than two miles, which ends at the convent of Wilteau, compofed of a Chapter of regular Canons; the Abbot of which is mitred, and a member of the States of Tyrol. The building is noble and extenfive, and merits the notice of travellers. It is built where formerly flood the ancient city of Veldidena, which belonged to the Vennones, a people
of Rhasti (Wiltean, or Weltina, being only a corruption of Veldidena).
The convent is noted for poffefiing a number of antiquities; and its library is not only extenfive but valuable, containing feveral curious manufcripts. One mile from thence is the city of Infpruck, where I arrived in good time, perfectly fatisfied with my pedeftrian excursion, which procured me the opportunity of obferving many things that Would have efcaped my attention in a carriage, or even on horfeback.
Prior to my defcription of Infpruck I fhall take notice of the different Alpine plants I met with in my way hither from the fummit of the Brenner, and give fome flight obfervations which I made on the origin and form of Government of the county of Tyrol.
In the environs of Giles, which is the firft village on defcending the mount, I found the Valeriana Montana, Arnica Scorpioides, Pedicularis Recutita, Centaurea Montana, and the Aftragene Alpina; and, as I approached Steinach, the Lonicera Alpigena, Daphne Ceneorum, Daphne Alpina, Ifopyrum Aquilegioides, and the Bartzia Alpina; near
Schonberg
Schonberg the Valeriana Sexatilis, Paedorata Bonarota, Genista Germanica, Tozzia Alpina, and the Clematis Recta; in the vicinity of Infpruck, the Pedicularis Comofa, Prenanthes Purpurea, Anemone Silveftris, Clematis Integrifolia, and the Aftragalus Campeftris, &c. The county of Tyrol formerly made part of the Rha^tian country; but, having, towards the fixth century, paffed under the dominion of the Dukes of Bavaria, it was then confidered as being comprehended in the Noriea: nevertheless^ the country, fituated on the other fide of the Adige, ftill belonged to the Lombards, who were, after feveral cruel wars, obliged to cede it to the Bavarians. But, to give a clearer idea of the hiftory of that country, it will be neceflary to trace it from an earlier period.
At the commencement of our era, Germany was divided into feveral petty States, subject to their refpective chiefs; but, in confequence of the fall of the Roman Empire, they divided themfelves into fix distinct nations, viz. the Swabians and the Germans formed one divifion; the Franconians, the Frifii, the Saxons, the Turingians, and the Bavarians, who poffeffed the Norican country and a part of the Rhaetian, formed the other five.
The Franconians having, in the courfe of time, rendered themfelves mafters of the Gauls, under the command of their King Clovis, they fubdued the other five nations, and became the only pofleffors of Germany; therefore, in the reign of Charlemagne, that large tract of country formed only one State, confidered as an appendage to the Monarchy of the Francs*
Charlemagne, being elected Emperor of the Weft in 800, conferred, foon after, the dignity of King of Germany on his fon Louis I. with the confent of the States; but Louis, before his death, made an equal divifion of it between his fons, which occafioned vaft trouble and confusion in the kingdom ; and tranquillity was not restored till the peace of Verdun, in 843 : in confequence of which Louis the German obtained that part of the kingdom which extends to the Rhine, and was acknowledged King. Since the above epoch, it has been confidered as a separate and independent State.
Louis the Younger, his fon, having fliared with his two brothers his father's dominion, retained, for his part, the kingdom of Burgundy; Charles, furnamed Le Gros, had Germany; and Carloman, the kingdom of Bavaria. Louis and Carloman dying foon after, Charles reunited, in his perfon, the right to all Charlemagne's pofleflions; but, by his ill behaviour, and his turbulent and tyrannic difpofition, he incenfed both the nobles and people at large, who depofed him in 880, and elected, as King of Germany, Arnould, a natural fon of Carloman's, who was crowned Emperor in 887. After the death of Louis IV, furnamed the infant, fon to Arnould, they elected, in 911, Henry of Saxe, fon to Otton.   From that time is traced the origin of the Dutchies of Swabia, Franconia,
Bavaria,
Bavaria, or Norica; the Jail (as I have already obferved) comprehended nearly the whole of the Rhaetian country.
The county of Tyrol, although underftood as forming part of that province, had, neverthelefs, its particular Seigneurs and Counts, who were abfolute Sovereigns on their own lands; being only under an obligation to provide, at their own expence, a certain number of troops, in cafe Bavaria fhould be attacked; or the wants of the State fhould require it. Thofe Seigneurs were the Counts of Tyrol, Goerz, Eppan, Welten, Caftelbarco, and Arco. The Counts of Andechs and Bavaria, poffeffed, as abfolute Sovereigns, the city of Infpruck and Meran, befides other lands in the vallies of Venofta and Sole.
The Emperor Frederick I. having conferred on thefe Counts the dignity of Duke, Berthold III. was the firft who enjoyed the title. His grandfon, Otton II. dying in 1248 without male ifliie, his potTeffions were divided, and the major part of thofe that were fituated in the valley of Venofta, devolved to the Counts Albert of Tyrol, who were of the fame family as thofe of Gaers. At the death of Albert, in 1 253, Menard III. Count of Gaers, and Gebhard, Count of Hirfehfeld, divided the county between them ; but, in 1284, Gebhard ceded his part to the Count of Gaerz, for 400 marks. Menard IV. having been created Prince of Gaerz in 1286 by the Emperor Rodolphus L who alfo added the country of Carinthia to his pofleflions; he relinquifhed his title, and right to the county of Tyrol, to his fon Henry, who ceded it to his daughter Margaret, and fhe bequeathed it, with all her pretentions, in 1363, to her three uncles, Rodolphus, Albert, and Lcopald, Duke of Auftria, which was confirmed to them in 1364 by the Emperor Charles IV.
They at firft met with fome opposition from the Duke of Bavaria; but the Emperor obliging him to accept of 116,000 golden florins of the houfe of Auftria, and relinquish his pretentions to the county, he was forced to acquiefce.
Tyrol having thus paffed into the poffeflion of Auftria, feveral of the Princes of that houfe became fovereigns of it: the laft, who was Sigifmond Francis, dying in 1665, the Emperor Leopold went in perfon to the diet of Infpruck to receive the oaths of allegiance of the States; and, fince that epoch, the Emperors have taken the title of Count, or Prince of Tyrol.
This principality, or county, is very extenfive, although nearly covered with mountains and glaciers. It is included in the Auftrian circle. Its extent from eaft to weft is two hundred and twenty Englifh miles; and from north to fouth one hundred and forty. It is bounded on the north by the dutchy of Bavaria, on the eaft by the arch-bifhopric of Salzbourg and part of Carinthia; on the weft and fouth by the State of Venice, the Griffons country, the petty ftate of Voralberg, and the circle of Swabia.
-    I have
I have included, as belonging to the county, the Bifhopricks of Trent and Brixen, the poffeflions of the Teutonic order, and of the Princes of Dietrichftein ; becaufe they are not only allies, but under the protection of the county; and in confequence of which they have a feat and vote at the different diets held at Infpruck, contributing alfo towards the taxes and exigences of the State.
The moft considerable peaks between the primordial chains of mountains that crofs the county are, on the fouth of Infpruck, the Brenner, or Brenner-Beg, otherwife Burning-Hill, fo called by the Tyrolefe, on account of its immenfe height, which by attracting the electric fluid, occasions, in fummer, moft tremendous ftorms.
On the weft are the mounts Kaifer, Arula, and Rhaetico. Towards the north the Verner, Sallftein, and Rofe; and towards the eaft, on the confines of the State of Venice, the mounts Selio.
The greateft part of thofe mountains are continually] covered with fnow, exhibiting large Glaciers, which fill the whole of the higheft vallies. Thofe which are the moft extenfive are the Guckler, Schalzer, Rofner, Stuben, Duxcr, and Teurferer.
In the neighbourhood of thefe Glaciers are found quantities of curious gems, or precious ftones, viz. rock chryftals of different colours, garnets, rubies, amethyfts, emeralds, agats, and cornelians, befides feveral other vitrefcent ftones.
The inferior range of mountains contain a variety of filver, copper, lead, mercury, iron, alum, and fulphur mines, that are worked with great fuccefs. There is alfo a gold mine in the valley of Zill, which, although not particularly rich in the ore, yet produces more than fufficient to defray the expence of working it. The copper of Tyrol is much efteemed, being deemed remarkably good and eafy to work; which accounts for their having a number of latten or brafs manufactories. Their fait mines are alfo valuable, abundant, and curious; a defcription of which I will give hereafter.
There are a number of hot baths and mineral fprings; the moft frequented are thofe which are fituated in the valley of Voider, Vellrain, and Egerdach, in the vicinity of Infpruck, as alfo thofe which are in the valley of Velten, and near Meran; thofe of Sexten, in the valley of Pufter, and thofe of Vinftgau, befides others of lefs note.
This country, being very mountainous, might naturally be fuppofed barren and uncultivated ; but it is quite the reverfe, for the foil yields in general every thing that is ufeful and luxurious. The vallies produce vaft quantities of corn, &c. Thofe which are fituated to the fouth furnifh the inhabitants with various forts of fruits peculiar to the warmeft climate of Italy, viz. oranges, lemons, olives, grapes, pomegranates, almonds, chefnuts, &c.: hemp and flax grow there likewife in great abundance; and the culture of mulberry-trees is general where the climate will admit of it.
R The
The mountains are rich in pafturage, and abound with wood of different forts. They breed great quantities of cattle; and Vinftgau is particularly famous for horfes, which are much admired, although of a middle fize.
The extenfive and thick forefts, which cover the fecondary range of mountains and the bafe of the primordial, arc filled with wild beafls; fuch as bears, wolves, foxes, &c.
The chamois, or wild goat, and the bouquetin, or hircus fylveftris, which is another fpecies of goat, not quite as large, of a reddifh colour, but remarkably fwift, and difficult to catch, as they leap from rock to rock with the greateft agility, and inhabit the higheft chain of mountains, which ferve as a fupport to the Glaciers. There is alfo another animal peculiar to thefe mountains, called fteinbocks, or rock goats (rupkaprce)^ which are excellent to eat.
The greateft part of Tyrol is convenient for hunting and fifhing, as it contains abundance of game; and few countries can boaft of finer rivers, or better ftocked with fifh.
Most of thefe rivers or torrents bring with them from the different mountains duft, or grains of gold, in fmall quantities.
Tins country contains twelve cities, eleven boroughs or rrmrket-towiis, eight hundred and ninety-four villages, two bifhopricks, and one hundred and forty-two feigneuries, or particular jurifdi&ions.
Before I enter on a defcription of their modern form of government, I muft give a fketch of their character, cuftoms, and manners.
The Tyrolefe in general, as well as.moft of the inhabitants of the Alps, are not opulent, yet there are fcarcely any poor among them. I have travelled through feveral of their vallies, which extend upwards of ten miles, and have not met with the leaft appearance of wretchednefs.
Each individual cultivates his own land; and when that is not fufKcient for the maintenance of his family, he has recourfe to that induftry and activity which is natural to them all; and endeavours to procure work in the mines, or different manufactories; if not fuccefsful, they quit Tyrol in the quality of hawkers, and convey into other countries the produce of their own.
Such are the little pleafurable barters of life, when life is governed by limplicity alone, and the eftimation in which objects are held is only proportioned to their real utility.
They are tall, ftrong, and robuft, as mountaineers are in general; remarkably chearful, with great mildnefs and honefty of character; but keen, with an uncommon fhare of natural underftanding. They are Roman Catholics, and exceflively devout, placing not only in the roads, but on their habitations, a number of images, according to the forms
of
of their religion; yet the generality of them are not bigots, for they appear to efteem indifcriminately all ftrangers who vifit them, without attending to their different opinions on religion: like moft mountaineers, they are particularly attached to their Prince and to their country.
In fhort, whether we confider the inhabitants of this part of the world, or the country itfelf, a traveller will not find it eafy perhaps to viiit any fpot where more circumftances concur to gratify a love of natural hiftory, to enlarge the mind or to intereft the feelings.
SECTION
section viii.
continuation of the form of the tyrolese  government — description of inspruck
and  the   extensive  valley  of inn.
.AxTHOUGH the county of Tyrol be confidered in the general divifion of Germany as included in the Austrian circle; it is proper to obferve, that it has laws and customs peculiar to itfelf, totally different from the reft of the provinces belonging to that circle.
All affairs relating to the State are tranfacted at the Diet held at Infpruck, which is affembled whenever it is deemed neceflary. The Diet is compofed of deputies or members belonging to the four orders or claffes which reprefent the nation; consisting of the church, the nobleffe, the tiers etats, or citizens, and the peafants. They are chofen from among the fix diftrids into which the county is divided, viz. the lower valley of Inn, the upper valley of the fame name, the diftrict of Vinftgau, that of the Adige, of the Eifach, the valley of Pufter on the confines of Italy.
The Diet, when affembled, has a right to deliberate on whatever relates to the general good of the county; and has alfo the power of levying taxes, &c. When the Prince, or Sovereign, in time of war, finds it neceflary to lay any extra impofts on the people, he applies directly to the Diet; and, each time that fupplies are granted him, he makes a kind of acknowledgment, or declaration, that it is without prejudice to the privileges of the county.
The Diet alfo has the power of raifing troops when the States of Tyrol are in danger of being attacked. That province enjoys feveral privileges and exemptions which their fovereigns have never attempted to infringe, the people having amply deferved them, by their courage and steady attachment to the houfe of Austria.
In time of war they all bear arms, and themfelves guard their defiles. The French, although superior in numbers, and commanded by moft excellent officers, experienced a fevere repulfe from the Tyrolefe at the beginning of the prefent century: for they defended the different paffes of the Tridentine Alps with the greateft bravery, and prevented the enemy from entering Italy that way, as they propofed doing. The French loft alfo vaft numbers of their troops near the city of Trent.
The States furnifh one regiment, which bears the name of the county: half of which is garrifoned at Infpruck; the other half does duty with the Austrian troops.
The
THE   RH/ETIA N   ALPS. ■ ' 69
The chief, or head of the Diet, takes the title of PrefecJ, who ought, according to the laws of the county, to be elected by the reprefentatives of the four estates, from among the clergy or nobleffe; but the Bifhops of Trent, or Brixen, occupy that dignity alternately.
The taxes, or imports, which are levied in the county, as alfo the fums anting from the produce of the different mines belonging to the Sovereign, are paid at the Receiver-general's office in the Chancery, which is a large building, compofed of feveral distinct petty offices.
This province grants annually 80,000 florins to Auftria, for the maintenance of the army.
The city of Infpruck, or iEnipontUm, is the capital of Tyrol, pleafantly fituated on the river Inn, which croffes it, and gives it a lively appearance. It is not extenfive, but well built. Its fuburbs, which are considerably larger than the city, are uniform; the streets wide, and the houfes both handfome and convenient. Its elevation above the level of the fea is 1,410 feet.
As Infpruck is the feat of the prefentation of the Aulic Chamber, and where all public affairs, relating to the High and Interior Auftria, are revifed : it is populous, and particularly chearful during the meeting of the Diet.
The Chamber of Finance, which was formerly a palace belonging to the ancient counts of Tyrol, termed by the people, the houfe with the golden roof, becaufe the lead which covers it is gilt, deferves notice. It was built about the fifteenth century by Frederick, Duke of Auftria.
In the garden belonging to the above palace is a beautiful equestrian figure, in bronze, much larger than life, reprefenting the Archduke Leopold. The horfe is in the attitude of leaping, and is only fupported on his hind feet.
The Church of the order of Cordeliers, which was alfo built in the fifteenth century by the Emperor Ferdinand I. is deferving the attention of travellers. It contains a noble and fuperb Maufoleum of white marble, erected in honour of the Emperor Maximilian I. with various ornaments and bafs-reliefs, well executed, expreffive of the courageous exploits of that Prince. There are alfo a number of ftatues reprefenting the moft celebrated perfons of both fexes belonging to the houfe of Auftria. There is another maufoleum in the fame church, simple, but worthy remark, built by the Emperor Ferdinand I. for his wife Philippina Welfer. The various gold and filver ornaments which have been given to that church by individuals is aftonifhing: among other rich gifts, is the figure of the Archduke Jofeph, in gold, as large as a new-born infant, a donation of the Emprefs Maria Therefa, immediately after his birth, in 1741.
S There
There are feveral other public edifices that merit attention, the New Palace in particular, which has been lately repaired, belonging to the aunt of the prefent King of Hungary, and fifler to the late Emperor Leopold.
The State Houfe and the Regent's Palace are magnificent. The Religious Houfe belonging to the CanonefTes, inftituted by the Emprefs Maria Therefa, after the death of her hufband Francis I. the Opera-Houfe, the grand Manege, or Riding-Houfe, and the Arfenal ought not to pafs unnoticed.
This city cannot boafl of its great antiquity; for, in 1234, it was only a large borough. Otto I. gave it the rights of a city, and granted moft of the privileges it now enjoys: the city of Meran, in the valley of Venofta, being till then the capital.
The Univerfity, which bears the name of Csefarea Leopoldina, was built by the Emperor Leopold I. in 1672; but Auftria is indebted to Maria Therefa (who may literally be ftyled the patronefs of arts and learning), for the rapid progrefs they made in that Archdutchy; as it muft be attributed to the great encouragement they received from her. She formed the library of Infpruck, and caufed the books that were in the caftle of Ambras (which were numerous, and confifted of feveral valuable manufcripts) to be removed to that univerfity. In order to enlarge the collection, and make it ftill more complete, feveral were fent from the library of Vienna, which added considerably to its value. It is worth notice, and is open at all hours; accefs is eaiily obtained by applying to one of the directors.
I must now mention fome few excurfions I had occasion to make in the neighbourhood of that city, which I always recollect with infinite fatisfaction, and which enabled me to judge of the goodnefs and hofpitality of the inhabitants.
The firft place I intended vifiting was the city of Hall, in order to examine the fait mines, and then proceed to Mount Salzberg, or Mountain of Salt; at the foot of which that city is built.    In my way thither I crofted the Inn, immediately on leaving Infpruck; and, following the courfe of the river, I paffed through feveral rich and beautiful meadows, adorned with fruit trees, and watered by a number of fmall rivulets, which defccnded from the adjacent mountains.   At other times my road led me acrofs extenfive fields of hops and flax intermixed; for the valley of Inn not containing any vineyards, the inhabitants, inftcad of wine, drink a kind of beer, made in the country, not of fo deep a colour as what is brewed in London, but nearly as strong and as palatable.
The diftance from Infpruck to Hall being only feven or eight miles, and the road level all the way, I was not long before I reached it.
This
THE   RHiETl AN   ALPS. jt
This city is exceedingly pretty, and pleafantly feated on the banks of the Inn. It is not fo extenfive as Infpruck, but more commercial. Its buildings are fuperior, and more regular: among which is the Mint, which is large and well built. The die with which they ftamp their coin is curious; and it is the only place where I have feen the machine by which the operation of coining is performed worked by means of water.
The building where the procefs of cleanfing and whitening the fait is carried on is worthy of notice, and it is effected in the following manner: —They evaporate by ebullition the frefh water from the brine, which is made by throwing into pits dug for that purpofe, on mount Salzberg, a quantity of foffil fait and earth, found in a mixt ftate, on that fpot, in great abundance. Thefe pits, which are then filled with frefh water, ferve to decompound thofe faline fubftances; for the earth, precipitated by its gravity to the bottom, leaves the water impregnated with the faline particles, which are conveyed from thence to Hall by wooden pipes, into feveral large coppers of nine feet in diameter, fixed in the building abovementioned. The water being thus totally evaporated, the fait is extracted from the coppers by a kind of rake. There are many people employed about it, and the whole procefs is carried on with great regularity.
The fait mines of Salzberg, more generally known by the name of Hall, are particularly rich, as the greateft part of the mount is compofed of foffil fait and earth intermixed, termed by Wallerius Muria fojfilis lapide mineralifata vel fal cczdrum fpe. 188* I brought from thence two beautiful cryftals of foffil fait; one of them a light blue, and the other a reddifh yellow of the fpecies of fal gemmce folidum*
These mines are fuppofed to yield annually to the Emperor upwards of 200,000 rix-dollars, clear of all expences.
The bafe of mount Salzberg is compofed of a kind of gypfeous or felenite fpar, or fpatum gypfeum, of a greyifh colour, or white, covered in feveral places with large beds of lamellated fchiftus; but its fummit contains a fpecies of calcareous glimmer ftone, which often fpreads through the gypfeous ftrata to the bottom of Weifenbach, eaft of the mount.
This valley, which is remarkably narrow, and the direct road to the mines, is curious, from the extreme variation and inclination of the different ftrata of the lateral mountains. A fmall torrent flows through the center of the valley, and makes a moft frightful noife in defcending rapidly from rock to rock till it falls into the Inn.
In afcending mount Salzberg, about half way up, we find a fmall chapel, called St. Magdalene, fituated at the entrance of two fmall vallies, the moft romantic and picturefque imaginable.
The one towards the weft leads to the fait mines. Its foil is a kind of gypfeous or felenite fpar, of a grey or reddifh colour, intermixed with beds of calcareous glimmer ftone. This fpot merits more attention than it was in my power to beftow, owing to want of time. Returning
Returning through Hall, I again croffed the Inn, and paffed by the hot baths of Egerdach, which are midway between that city and Infpruck. I then continued my route below the caftle of Ambras, which I propofed vifiting the next morning.
Although my excurfion to the caftle was not attended with a degree of fatisfadion equal to what I experienced at the fait mines, I muft not omit fome particulars, as it certainly contains many things worth notice.   I quitted Infpruck early the next morning, and took the road by which I entered the city in defcending the Brenner, and directed my courfe towards the convent of Wilteau (which I have already defcribed).   I paffed it on the left, and followed a road at the foot of a charming hill, which is the bafe of the high chain of the Brenner, covered with firs to the fummit: I had not gone far, when I heard a tremendous noife refembling a water-fall, which increafed confiderably as I approached the caftle : but, not feeing the leaft appearance of a river, I could not account for the violent guth of water which I now heard perfectly diftinct; till, proceeding round a fmall rock, which projected into the plain, where I then was, I perceived a moft beautiful cafcade, formed by the waters of the Sill, which, precipitating themfelves with great rapidity from the fummit of huge rocks, through thick tufts of firs and larch trees (in which that country abounds) prefenred a magnificent and pleafing object,   From thence I foon reached the foot of a fmall hill, on which is built the caftle of Amras, or Ambras. This edifice, which is at no great diftance from Infpruck, was formerly the refidence of the Archdukes of Auftria.   It is the opinion of feveral writers, that it was built by the Archduke Ferdinand ; but it is without doubt of much greater antiquity; fince it is proved that, in 1138, Henry, Duke of Bavaria, took it from Frederick, Duke of Swabia, his brother-in-law, by force of arms.
Tins caftle is extenfive, and kept in good repair by the prefent Archdukes. It con-tains feveral valuable and curious antiquities. There is a beautiful hall, which ferves as an armoury: it being a repofitory for the different kinds of arms made ufe of fince the time of the Romans, either in their battles or tournaments. In the fame hall are like-wife upwards of two hundred horfes, curioufiy carved in wood, as large as life, with their Knights equipped in armour from head to foot, reprefenting their greateft heroes for more than fixteen centuries.   Their portraits, arms, and trophies are alfo fhewn.
I will not attempt to enter into a minute defcription of the great variety of curiofities contained in the caftle, as it would carry me too far. I muft however juit notice, that there are feveral cabinets, arranged with care and tafte, confifting of medals, gems, foflils, fhells, birds, &c. The paintings are alfo numerous, fo that I particularly recommend the caftle of Ambras to the inlpection of either the naturalift or artift.
Before I quit Infpruck, I muft not omit giving a defcription of the valley of Inn, in which that city is built.   It forms two divifions of the county, viz. Upper and Lower
Inn;
Inn; and it extends from north-eaft to fouth-weft. This valley is one of the moft extenfive, beffc cultivated, and populous of the Alps. It contains three hundred and twenty villages and hamlets, befides a number of catties and convents. It produces corn, fiilt, wood, and game, in great abundance. The foil is favourable to the culture of flax and hops. The inhabitants breed vaft quantities of cattle. Minerals of different forts are found in feveral places.
The river Inn, or iEnns, from which it derives its name, flows in the center of the valley for upwards of thirty miles. It takes its fource at the foot of mount St. Julc, in the country of the Grifons, and throws itfelf into the Danube, near Paffean.
The banks of this river are fo fertile, and its views fo picturefque, that they recal the idea of the enchanting borders of the Brenta in the environs of Padua. In many places thefe are however fuperior; for the beauties of nature here appear with more majefty and grandeur, owing to that high and tremendous chain of rocky mountains which ferves to limit the valley. Its width, in many parts, is from four to five miles; in others it is fo contracted that there is fcarcely room for more than the bed of the river which meanders between a number of hills, highly cultivated and wooded, that appear the tirtt ttep towards the fuperior chain of mountains.
On the fummit of many of thefe hills are fmall villages, moft agreeably fituated, whofe fteeples, covered with tin, thine through the tufts of trees, forming a pleating contratt with the fable hue of the hill: and the foft vapour which covered the bottom of the valley (particularly at fun-fet), prefented to the eye a moft finithed landfcape, worthy the pencil of Claude Lorraine.
At other times, the fcene changing, offered unexpectedly a view of the ruins of an ancient caftle, feen in the back ground, on the edge of huge rocks; the bafe of which was concealed by firs and larch trees, whitened by the vapour iffuing from a cafcade or a torrent, precipitating down the fummit of the neighbouring mountains. A ftriking in fiance of the inftability of human productions. Our nobleft works are liable to decay; whilft thofe of nature feem daily to regenerate and refume frefh beauty.
I shall always recollect with pleafure and fatisfaction an excursion I made with my inn-keeper's fon, a decent, amiable young man, and well informed in lithology. He had fhewn me his collection, which was extenfive and well chofen, confiding of every fpecies of marble of that country, as likewife crystals and vitrefcent ftones, found in the vicinity of the Glaciers.
His propofal was for me to accompany him to a fmall country houfe belonging to his father, fituated on a hill which commanded the greatest part of the valley, and from which the view of the adjacent country was extenfive. I accepted his offer with pleafure, and determined on going the day preceding my departure.
T Having
Having fct off, as wc propofcd, we directed our courfe northward, and afcended a hill compofed of fchiftus. In about an hour we arrived at St. Maria, the fmall village where the good man's cottage flood. I was flruck with its iimplicity and neatnefs. It occupied a bold eminence, richly adorned with wood; was fmall, but extrenjely complete; built of wood, painted of a dark-green colour, and thatched. A large gallery projected on the outfide, towards the declivity of the hill, covered and painted the fame as the reft of the cottage, but beautifully ornamented with a variety of Alpine plants.
From hence the view was not only extenfive but enchantingly diverfified. I had not feen any to compare to it, except at Salanche, in Savoy, from a fimilar fituation, when turned towards the bottom of the valley of the fame name, which is terminated by mount Blanc: for although that mountain is more elevated than thofe which compofe the Brenner, and that here limit the horizon, yet that view is not fo extenfive as this.
Nothing can be more pleafmg than the contraft between the rugged and furrowed peaks of that tremendous chain of mountains feen in the back ground inceffantly covered with fnow, and the rich and fertile meadows of the valley of Inn, its adjacent hills clothed with cattle, and fields yielding fruit, corn, and hops, in abundance.
It appeared like enchantment, and as though I had been tranfported imperceptibly from the frozen regions of Norway to the delightful valley of Piedmont or Lombardy.
Having (laid nearly an hour, I quitted with regret that charming fpot; but not till I had taken a drawing of the cottage and its gallery. With regard to the profpect, the attempt would have been beyond my abilities; for there are many objects in nature which wc muft content ourfelvcs to admire, without daring to imitate them.
In my way back to the Inn, I added to my collection of Plants the Clematis Recta, the Lactuca Perennis, the Prcnanthes Purpurea, the Iris Graminea, the Cineraria Helenitis, &c. The remainder of the day I paffed in arranging my plants, the various acquifitions I had made of ftones, foflils, &c. fince I had been at Infpruck, many of which had been given me by the inhabitants, of whofe urbanity, hofpitality, and good-humour, I fliall ever retain the moft flattering remembrance.
SECTION
if
SECTION IX.
departure   from inspruck—description  of   the   mines   at   nassereit — barrier of
tyrol — arrival  at   fussen,   in swabia.
It was near twelve before I quitted Infpruck, intending to pafs the night at the village of Naffereit, thirty miles from that city. The road, great part of the way, follows nearly the courfe of the river Inn on one fide; and, on the other, a continued range of fmall hills, compofed of fchiftus, of which fome are in large ftrata, and others lamellated, forming different angles with the horizon.
The thin ftrata of lamellated fchiftus, in Tome of thofe hills, are almoft perpendicular; in others they form portions of eccentric circles. Some of them effervefce in a fmall degree with acids, and contain impreflions of exotic plants.
This inferior range of hills ferves to fkreen the bafe of the chain of mountains, whofe arid and rugged peaks appear to be formed of granite.
At three miles from Infpruck lies the White Valley, fo called from its containing large quarries of white gypfeous ftones. It is narrow; and its direction extends from north to fouth, forming nearly a right angle with the courfe of the river. This valley is terminated by the bafe of mount Sollftein, which is an enormous mountain of granite, and part of the Verner.
The road from thence is by the fide of a long chain of perpendicular rocks, upwards of two hundred feet high, and one mile in length. They are called St. Martin's JVands> i. e. the Wall of St. Martin. On the higheft of thefe rocks is a niche, in which is placed a crofs with a ftatue on each fide of it. The crofs is fuppofed to be upwards of forty feet high; but, from its extreme height, it does not feem to exceed four feet.
It was creeled by Maximilian I. in commemoration of his fortunate cfcape, having nearly loft his life on that fpot, when in purfuit of a chamois, or wild goat.
The inhabitants, who are rather fupcrftitious, relate a number of extraordinary ftories;
among the reft_that an angel having appeared to the Emperor, had indicated a path by
which he avoided the danger that threatened him: but Hertius, in his Hiftory of Germany, tells us, that the Emperor, being eager in the chace, incautioufly followed the animal amongft thefe craggy rocks, where he remained twenty-four hours, without
feeing
feeing the leaft chance of extricating himfelf: but being accidentally perceived from a neighbouring valley by a young fhepherdefs; flic instantly told her brother, who, fetching fome cords, ran to his affiflancc, and, with much labour and fatigue, refcued him from inevitable death.
These rocks are calcareous, having their ftrata nearly parallel to the horizon, except in the environs of the valley of Ehe, where they incline considerably. They are a kind of calcareous fcintillans ft rat of us grifeus.
Soon after crofting this fmall valley, I arrived at the charming village of Zirl, which is moft pleafantly fituated at the entrance of the valley of Schlofs, where unite four capital roads, to Bavaria, Swabia, the Grifons country, and the city of Infpruck. It is likewife near the Banks of the Inn, which form in that part a moft picturefque fcene.
Having left the road to Bavaria on the right, the next place I came to was Dirfchen-bach, three miles from Zirl, and nine from Infpruck. This fmall hamlet is feated at the entrance of the valley Nieder, in the middle of a plain, rich in corn and pafturage.
The next village is Telfs, which lies at the bafe of the eastern extremity of a long chain of mountains, called Munde, whofe direction runs nearly from eaft to weft, forming, neverthelefs, a portion of a circle, of which the curve faces the north.
From the center of that grand chain of granite rifes mount Frairen Schritt, the highest, peak of that extenfive range, which, by its elevation, commands the inferior chain of the Verner.
These inferior mountains appear from the valley indifcriminately to incline towards that particular point, and feem mostly covered with calcareous ftrata, similar to thofe which cover the greatest part of the Brenner.
On quitting Telfs the road no longer follows the courfe of the Inn, but leads to the north. At three miles from thence is the hamlet of Miemingen, which is picturefque, rural, and agreeably fituated in the center of a plain, of a circular form, of which the northern extremity is terminated by mount Luden Kopflen, cut nearly perpendicular, concealing the bafe of mounts Miemingen and Frauen.
From Miemingen to Naffereit, which is the third poft from Infpruck, the road is on a continual afcent, and its views diversified by prominent rocks, and grounds finely broken and adorned. Sometimes it leads through contracted vallies, richly fliaded with thick tufts of trees, whofe deep umbrage diffufes a coolncfs and ferenity, producing the moft pleasing fenfations.
At other times the appearance of a huge tremendous rock feemed to bar the paffage, or a cafcade defcending rapidly from a neighbouring mountain appeared as if it would check all progrefs by the ftrong current of its limpid waters, or by the vapours that naturally arife from the waters dafhing with fuch velocity from rock to rock,
The
The major part of thefe mountains, or at leaft the fecondary range, are compofed of fchiftus, or horn-ftone; fome of them hard, others lamellated, of the fpecies of corneus fijftlts mollior. Soon after fun-fet I arrived at Naflereit, a village remarkably well built; and, from its defirable fituation, it increafes daily in confequence and extent. It is feated in the valley Gurgel, near the torrent of the fame name; and is particularly rich in filver, lead, copper, and iron mines. The moft considerable are thofe of Teugenftin, Dirfchcndritt, Reifenfchuch, and St. Veil*
Finding that this village was fituated in one of the higheft vallies belonging to the fecondary chain of the Alps, I was determined to take its elevation, and found that it was nearly 2340 feet above the level of the fea, or 930 above the city of Infpruck.
On leaving Naflereit I croffed the torrent Gurgel. The valley then becomes fo narrow that one feems at a lofs how to get out of it: however, a very rapid afcent conducts one into a fmall but elevated plain, where ftands the caftle of Vernftein.
The chain of mountains which borders the above valley is extremely high; for the back range is continually covered with fnow.
Most of them are compofed of granite, the ftrata of which are perfectly distinct, inclining to the eaft.
The lower range differs considerably in elevation. Some of them are formed of fchiftus horn-ftone, or a fpecies of calcareous lamellated ftone.
On the right, near the caftle of Vernftein, are found large banks of fand-ftone, or cos cedijicialis, of a blueifh colour, which is foft when firft taken out of the quarry, but foon hardens when expofed to the air, This ftone effervefces in a fmall degree with acids; or, more properly, this is the cafe with the glutinous parts which cement the fand and compofc that fpecies of ftone. This bed of ftrata appears to form the bottom of the fmall lake of Sigmundfburg: for ftrata of the fame kind are visible on the oppofite fide of the lake, which takes its name from a large ancient caftle, fituated nearly in its center, Handing on the lonely peak of a huge rock, that feems starting from the midft of its limpid waters. This caftle, from its tremendous fituation, appears inacceffiblc. It is of a Gothic form, and flanked by four round towers.
The caftle of Vernftein is partly ancient and partly modern, neverthelefs, it ferves as the key to the defile. It is well fortified, and its fituation strikes the traveller with furprize, being on the edge of an enormous rock, fhelving over a frightful precipice, through which runs the torrent Klans, making a moft hideous noife. It is neceflary to crofs this precipice, in order to get into the road, which paffes through the outward yard of the caftle, over a wooden bridge of extreme height, which is demolifhed in time of war to cut off all communication.    The road pafling as it were through the
U caftle,
caftle, every traveller is required to ftiew his paiTport to the commanding officer belonging to the detachment, which the houfe of Auftria always keeps there in garrifon.
Having crofted a fmall guard-houfe, half a mile from the caftle, the defcent becomes rapid, and the mountains, which contract the valley, are fo fteep and fo high that it has been found neceflary to erect a parapet along the road in feveral places, to render it lefs dangerous to travellers.
I pursued my route by the fide of three fmall lakes, which nearly fill the bottom of a charming plain, about two miles in extent, furrounded by feveral hills, covered with Alpine trees.   A number of fmall cafcades, which defcend from the neighbouring mountains, mix their tranfparent waters with thofe of the lakes Blind-See, Mitter-See, and Weifen-See; the latter of which I crofted, and proceeded to the filver mines of Silber Leute, which lie at the foot of mount Sonnenfpiz, and I then paffed through the village of Byberbier, noted for its hot mineral fprings, which are aluminous and fulphu-reous.   Not far from hence is the village of Lermos, which is the next pott.    It is particularly fwampy, although feated on an eminence, owing to the exceflive height of the furrounding mountains, which renders the fmall valley in which that village is built a receptacle for the waters, which defcend rapidly on all fides.
The moft confiderable mountains on the eaft of Lermos are the Wetterfchrofen, the Tiefen, and the Blattach, always covered with fnow. The laft has an extenfive Glacier belonging to it, called Blattacher Ferner. Thefe mountains are a continuation of the chain of the Verner. On the fouth-weft are the mounts Grubacher, Nieden, Bleyfpiz, &c.: this fecondary chain is lefs elevated than the other, being moftly covered with trees, except the high and rugged peak of the Gartner.
On leaving Lermos the road is on an afcent the whole way to the village of Wengle, at which place the valley widens confiderably, and then a continued defcent leads to Fuffen.
The road being particularly fteep from Naflereit, I preferred walking to Buchlbach, a charming village between Lermos and Heiterwang; for the horfes going flowly, on account of the heavy afcent, I foon got before them, and by thofe means had an opportunity of enjoying the moft rural, charming, and picturefque fcenes.
By way of giving a juft idea of the character and amufements of the happy inhabitants of this country, I muft not omit the defcription of a fite champitre I was witnefs to in my way from the above village, and in which I very unexpectedly participated.
It is cuftomary among the young Tyrolefe, whilft paying their addreffes td a favourite lafs, to place, or plant a tree at the door of her habitation, which is generally a fpecies of fir, called in that country May, or Tree of the Feaft. It is found in great abundance on the adjacent hills which furround their villages.   They confequently take the largeft
they
t
they can carry, peel off the bark, and flrip it of its branches, leaving juft enough towards the top to form a kind of bouquet, to which is hung garlands of flowers, tied together with firings, or ribbands of the colour moft worn by the young woman; for the colour ferves to diftinguifh the favourite, in cafe there fhould be feveral daughters in the fame houfe ; as alfo by way of declaration to the young men of the adjacent villages that no new fuitor can be admitted.
The day on which the tree is placed is their grand gala, as their union is then looked upon as certain. Both families meet; fathers, mothers, and grandfathers, are not forgotten, who frequently travel a great way to fhare the happinefs of their children.
This rural feftivity takes place twice a year, till the marriage is celebrated: many happy unions are formed by means of thefe innocent and agreeable amufements; and they contribute in a great meafure to the natural good-humour and fprightlinefs which characterize the Tyrolefe.
The gala I was witnefs to was ftmilar to what I have defcribed; for, foon after quitting Buchlbach, I perceived in a meadow, at fome diftance from the road, a concourfe of people affembled near a cottage. Having flopped a few moments to fatisfy my curiofity, I plainly difcerned a group of young folk, collected round a tree, decorated with flowers, executing dances peculiar to their country; fuch as walfes, allmandes, &c. to the found of their favourite mufic, which is a kind of clariun, accompanied by the ofier flute mentioned in a former fection. The old people were feated on wooden benches of a femi-circular form at the front of the houfe, and feemed equally to enjoy the pleafures of the day, forming altogether a fubject worthy the pencil of Teniers.
Not being as yet fufficiently gratified, I entered the meadow, when two of the young men, perceiving me, immediately came up with great courtefy, inviting me to accept of fome refrefhment and join their party; but, finding that I did not clearly underfland them, as they fpoke German, one of them fetched a venerable old man, who repeated the fame folicitations in Italian, with fo much cordiality and good-humour, that I found myfelf obliged to acquiefce.   During the fhort flay I made with them, I gained the above intelligence.   Indeed I could have wifhed to have lengthened my vifit, in order to inform myfelf more particularly in regard to the cuftoms and manners of the country, being perfuaded that by converting with that honeft clafs of people one frequently gains much neceflary information towards juftly characterizing the inhabitants of a country. After accepting of fome refrefhments, which they offered in profufion, I took my leave, thanking them for their cordial welcome, without daring to offer payment, fearing to receive an anfwer fimilar to that given by a country woman of Contamine (a village on the road to the Glaciers in Savoy) to Mr. De Sauffure, who, wifhing to pay for fome pears
which
which he had picked up from under a tree, belonging to this good woman, " Eat " them," laid fhe, " and welcome: it was not for payment that I came hither. He " that fupplied us with that fruit, did not fend it for me only." See Mr. De Sauffure's Voyage in the Alps, vol. ii. p. 142.
These honeft mountaineers have not ftudied, it is true, what is generally ftyled the Graces, or the arts and manners of polifhed life: but to make up for that deficiency they are free from the diffinlulation and unfeeling felfifhncfs, which are the general growth of populous cities. Their happinefs does not confift in profufion or expensive pleafures, but in the blefiings of nature, which they know how to value, and which coft them nothing, whilft the latter pay dear for their tranfitory and unsatisfactory enjoyments.
The diftance from Wengle to Buchlback does not exceed three miles; and the road is on a rapid defcent to the village of Heiterwang, which is pleafantly fituated, although furrounded by calcareous mountains, fome of them tolerably high.
I left this village, which is extenfive, and feated almoft on the banks of a charming lake, of the fame name, which communicates with another much larger, of an irregular form, and particularly romantic, called Plan See, and I crofted the Lachen, a fmall torrent that flows at the extremity of a valley, through which I had paffed in my way to Haiterwang.
The road again becomes very much contracted by the lateral mountains, which form a defile, strengthened by fortifications at the bottom of the valley, and commanded by a fortrefs, fen ted on an eminence called Hochfchang.    The two ranges of mountains which form its fkreens approach fo near that there is but juft room for the road, fo that one is perfectly immured between them.
The fortrefs of Hochfchang, which from its fituation appears inacceffible, was taken in the war of Smalcalde by the chief of the allies, in 1546, and afterwards by Maurice, Elector of Saxony, who was at the head of the league againft Charles V. in 1552, compofed of the Elector of Brandcbourg, the Duke of Wirtemberg, the Count Palatine of the Rhine, befides other Princes.
The pretence of the war was to liberate the Landgrave of Heffe, who was retained prifoner by the Emperor.   The allies, having rendered themfelves matters of the defile of Ehrenberg, and taken potTeffion of its fortifications, marched to Infpruck, where they were very near making the Emperor and his brother Ferdinand prifoners; who, relying entirely on the ftrength of their citadels, Sec. (at that time badly fupplied with provifions), were adually fitting down to dinner, when they were informed, that the Elector and his army were at the gates of the city.   They had fcarcc time to efcape and fave themfelves at Paffeau, where they foon collected an army, and forced thofe Princes to agree
to
to an accommodation. What is moft Angular is, that the allies partook of the dinner intended for the Emperor and his brother.
Having paffed the fortifications at Ehrenberg, I arrived at Reitti, an extenfive village, feated on the banks of the river Lech. From thence to Knicpafs (which is a fmall fortrefs) the valley widens, and the mountains decreafe considerably in height, fo that near that defile one may fix the termination of the fecondary mountains and the commencement of the third order, which continue till we approach FulTen. This fortrefs is on the banks of the river Lech, and at the foot of mount Seiling, which ferves to defend Tyrol on the fide of Swabia. The valley again widens, and the road follows the courfe of the beautiful river Lech, till one arrives at the fmall village of Zoll, near which is the cataraEi of the Lech: not far from thence one quits the ftates of Tyrol to enter the circle of Swabia; and within a mile of the city of FulTen ftands a crofs, placed on an eminence contiguous to the road, which marks the limit of the Tyrolefe ftates.
Fussen is very ancient, and was formerly called Oppidum Faucenfe; it is well built, the ftreets are tolerably wide and regular, and it is confidered as one of the handfomeft cities in the bifhopric of Augfbourg.   Its trade is considerable, and particularly in leather.
Before I conclude this abridgment of my Travels through the Rhrctian Alps and the county of Tyrol, I muft caution thofe of my readers who propofe going from Germany to Italy, to provide themfelves with a paftport, in order to prevent any obstacle to their pafTing from one ftate to the other; for, at the firft barrier, on entering the county of Tyrol, which is Kniepafs, the paftport muft be figned by the principal officer belonging to the detachment then in garrifon, and again at the fmall city of Reitti, where permif-lion is granted for pafling through the fortifications of Ehrenberg, without which it is impoflible to proceed, as the orders of the State are very ftrict, that they may be informed of the rank and number of people that enter the county.*
I sincerely wifh that this hafty fketch of obfervations, made in my laft excurfion to the Alps, was more ufeful and interefting, particularly to the amateurs in natural hiftory, and to thofe who intend vifiting thofe places. But it is hoped they will make allowances for that want of time which prevented a traveller from giving fo much fcope to his obfervations as he could have wished.
I can, neverthelefs, assure them that I have defcribed the fcenes juft as they appeared to me. I might probably have been more accurate, could I have commanded more time for general remarks; but I have contented myfelf with ftating plainly and fimply what feemed chiefly to merit the attention of the geologist and lithologift, without giving any decided opinion; although I found, in feveral places, evident proofs to perfuade me that: the fea had at different periods covered our continents, and that the retreat of the waters had been precipitate only to a certain height, after which it had been more gradual.
X. I have
I have vifited feveral parts of the Alps and Pyrennees; hut muft ftill wait for an opportunity of continuing my obfervations on the relative height of the primordial and fecondary mountains; their fituation and direction; as alfo thofe of the different glaciers, the upper and lower vallies, the courfe of the rivers, &c.: I ftiall then probably be tempted to offer to the public my opinion on the various revolutions which have affected that tremendous chain of mountains.
From what I have feen and obferved in the Alps, I am ftrongly of Mr. de la Metherie's opinion on the formation of our continents, viz. i. That the waters have certainly covered the higheft mountains, even thofe of Granite.    2. That they have a motion from the equator to the poles, and from the poles to the equator.   3. That the interior part of our globe contains a number of caverns, into which part of the waters precipitate themfelves.    This latter obfervation is generally underftood by moft of our modern gcologifts; in fhort, that the poles of the equator and the ecliptic approaching and retreating alternately from eaft to weft, they muft at certain periods be parallel.   See the Journal de Phyfique of L'Abbe Rozier, for the month of December, 1791, page 445, This hypothefis of Mr. de la Metherie's correfponds partly with an idea of my own, which I communicated eight years ago at Nice to a Mr. Bofanquet, who had accompanied me in fome of my pedeftrian excursions.   This idea fuggefted itfelf to me at the appearance
of a range of mountains compofed of fand, fituated immediately at the back of the
fecondary chain of the Maritime Alps towards the fouth.
I defer entering into a more ample detail at prefent, as I propofe offering to the
public fome time hence an account of my journey from Italy to France by the Col
de Tende.
THE END,
EXPLANATION of the different PLATES.
PLATE I.
pass   of chiusa.
THE Rocks on the left are calcareous, and filled with Marine Subftances, projecting above the River, which formerly joined thofe of the oppofite Mountains. In the Center are the Mounts Carbiolo, Cambon, and Pozzete j the laft is the higheft Peak of Mount Baldo. The Road to Trent paffes through the Arch on the right, which ferves as a Barrier to the State of Venice. The Fort of Chiufa is built on a Rock, which is a Continuation of the Mounts Mendola and Volargne.
PLATE th
summit of the brenner.
On the left is a Cafcade of the Eifach: this River takes its Source at the Back of the Mountain, where the Crofs is placed, which is the Beginning of the fmall Plain on the Summit of the Brenner. In the Back Ground is the Kreuzioch, a fteep Rock, compofed of Granite, covered in feveral Places with phofphorous calcareous Strata. The Rocks about the Cafcade are Schiftus. Wexel the loweft Mount. The Rock on the right, which rifes perpendicularly, is compofed of large Pieces of Graiiite. The Sides of the Road are covered with phofphorous Marble.
PLATE IIL
Werner mountains, as seen from egerdac^ near inspruck.
Road from the Village of Ampas to the Mineral Springs of Egerdach, which is the fame as from Mattrey to Hall. Rumerioch the higheft Peak; this Mountain is entirely compofed of Granite; its Bafe is furrounded by Hills of Schiftus and Gypfeous Stones. The City of Hall, feated on the Banks of the Inn. Road to Hall acrofs a fertile and cultivated Meadow. Hanfeven, a fmall Village, in the Middle of the Plain. Speck-korn, the higheft Mountain of the Verner; thofe which are near it are the Taurer and Salzberg; behind the laft are the Salt Mines of Hall.
PLATE IV.
pallet of INSPRUCk.
The Mountain on the left is a Continuation of Patfcher-Kofal, which forms Part of the inferior Chain of the Brenner. In the Center is the Convent of Wilteau. Gottfen the higheft Peak; at the Foot of which are Copper Mines. The other Mountains are the Gozner and the Nocker. Road from the Caftle of Ambras to Infpruck. Cafcade of the Sill on the left. The City of Infpruck on the right, feated on the Inn, at the Foot of the Ploettingen, a Hill where the Village of St. Mai ia is built.
plate
EXPLANATION OF THE DIFFERENT PLATES,
PLATE V.
vernstein barrier.
Caftle of Vernftein, one of the Barriers of Tyrol, built on the Edge of a fteep Rock, at the Foot of which runs the Torrent Klans. The Mountain at the Back of the Bridge is called Lorea* it is calcareous and covered with Trees. Mount Vanech the higheft Peak; at the foot of which are the Mines of Fengenftain* in the Environs of Naflereit. The Bafe of this Mountain, is a Species of lamellated horn-ftone. Sig-mundfburg, an ancient Caftle, flanked with four round Towers, feated on a Rock nearly in the Center of the Lake. The Rock appears like large Stones heaped one upon another. The Mountains, in the Back Ground, covered with Snow, are Part of the Chain called Munde.
PLATE VI.
ehrenberg barrier.
Mount Xlans Wald is on the left, and nearly perpendicular. The River Lech runs to the weft of this Mountain. In the Center are Mounts Panondurn and Sanereck on the Confines of Bavaria. Ehrenberg Caftle, at the Foot of which the Road panes through a Defile ftrongly fortified. The diftant Mountains are in Bavaria, and always covered with fnow.   On the right is a Convent of Friars.
PLATE VII.
cataract of  the lech.
High Road from Infpruck to FufTen, in Swabia, which is on a rapid Defcent from the Schwage, a Hilt compofed of huge Pieces of Granite, which decompofe eafily, although the adjacent Mountains are moftly calcareous. The Crofs ferves as a Limit between the County of Tyrol, and the Bifhopric of Augfbourg. Cataract of the Lech, which appears to have forced its Way through the Rock, that forms a Kind of Cavern. The diftant Mountain is Ogl, in Bavaria. The others are Selling and Durn, on the Borders of Tyrol.
PLATE VIII.
course  of the  lech  towards fussen
i
High Road to the Village of Heten, fituated to the North of FulTen, which is alfo the fame to the City of Ulm. The Mountains in the Back Ground are on the Confines of Bavaria. FufTen on the Banks of the Lech, which winds confiderably near the City.
4
1