T R A'V ELS
FROM
st petersburg
I N
RUSSIA.
T O
diverse parts
O F
S   I A
B Y
JOHN BELL,
OF ANTERMONY.
VOLUME II.
containing
The continuation of the journey between Mosco and pekin. To which is added, a translation of the Journal of Mr. de lange,refident of Russia at the court of pekin, in the years 17 21 & 1722.
A journey from mosco to der-dent in Persia, in the year 1722.
A journey from s*r. Petersburg to CONSTANTINOPLE, ill the years 1737 and 1738.
GLASGOW: Printed for the Author by Robert and Andrew FotJLM Printers to the University
M.DCC.LXI1I.
Sold by R. & A. Foulis, and A. Stalker at Glasgow ; Kincaid & Bell at Edinburgh ; A. Miller, J. Nourse, T. Becket & P. A de IIondt, and C. Henderson in London; J. Leake, and J. Frederick at Hath: and T. Cadell at Bristol.
JOURNEY OTAPf
1720,
from \yy^>
st   pet e r s b u r g
t O
PEKIN.
CHAPTER IX.
Occurrences at pekin, audience of the ambajfador, &c
' J^HE 19th, the prime mimfter, accompanied with the matter of the ceremonies and five Jesuits, came to compliment the ambafTador. As foon as they entered the gate, two of their attendants walked before them, at fome diftance, making a humming noife; the ufual fign that fome perfon of diftinclion is coming. Aloy defired the ambafTador would give him a copy of his credentials; which was not cafily complied with, till thefe minifters abfolutely infift-ed on it; alledging that the Emperor never received any letters from his bed friends, among whom he reckoned his Czarilh Majefty the chief, without knowing the contents. The latin copy was at lad Vol. II. A produ-
2 A JOURNEY
chap.ix. produced, the original being in the Russian language; I720k and the matter of the ceremonies and the mifTtonaries having tranflated it into Chinese, took their leave. But the aleggada remained for the fpace of three hours, talking on different fubje&s. This minifter, it feems, was a great fportfman. He asked to fee the ambafla-dor's dogs, which were a few grey-hounds, and fome French buck-hounds. He was defired to receive, in a prefent, any of them which pleafed him beft; but he would accept only of a couple of grey-hounds.
In the mean time, the Emperor fent an officer to enquire after the ambafTador s health; who brought along with him a table, carried by four men, and covered with yellow filk, on which was placed variety of fruits and confections; and, in the middle, a large piece of excellent mutton. The officer acquainted the ambafTador that thefe provifions were brought from the Emperor's own table; and therefore hoped he would eat of them. This circumftance was accounted a lingular mark of the Emperor's favour.
The day following, the ambafTador had a vifit from the prefident of the council for weftern affairs, called Aflchinoma, accompanied by four mifTtonaries, two of which were meflieurs paranim and fridelii. The
con-
TO PEKIN. 3 converfacion turned chiefly on the ceremonial of the chap. ix. ambaffador's introduction to the Emperor, which was I72°-a matter not eafily fettled. The principal points, infilled on by the ambafTador, were, that he might deliver his credentials into the Emperor's own hands, and be excufed from bowing thrice three times on entering his Majefty's prefence ; to which cuftom all mutt fubmit who appear before the Emperor. The prefident, on the contrary, afTerted, that the conftant practice in china, for many ages pall:, was directly op* pofite to thefe demands; that their Emperors never received letters of credence with their own hands; that the cuftom was for the ambafTador to lay them on a table, at fome diftance from the throne, or the place where the Emperor may happen to fit j after which they were delivered to the Emperor by the officer appointed for that purpofe.
At the fame time, the prefident invited the ambafTador to an entertainment, to be given at a palace in the city, where, he faid, the Emperor would be pre-fent, and fpeak with him. His excellency replied, he would accept of the invitation, provided he might, on that occafion, deliver the Czar his matter's letter. He was told this was neither a proper place nor time
A 2 for
4 A JOURNEY
chap. ix. for that purpofe; but that the Emperor intended to vjj^^\> give him a publick audience very foon, and receive his credentials in form.
The ambafTador was apprehenfive, that, the Emperor having already feen a copy of his credentials, mould he alfo fee himfelf at the entertainment, his publick audience might thereby be retarded; and therefore declined the invitation. It appeared, however, afterwards, that this fufpicion was without foundation; and that the Emperor intended nothing more than to do honour to the ambafTador.
The 21 ft, the aleggada paid a fecond vifit. His fervants brought tea ready made, fome jars of arrack, with fruits and confections. From this day little material happened, except daily meflages from court relating to the ceremonial, till the 27th; when this affair was, at laft, adjufted on the following terms. " That the " ambafTador mould comply with the eftablifhed cuf-u toms of the court of china; and, when the Empe-" ror fent a minifter to Russia, he fhould have in-" ftruclions to conform himfelf, in every refpect., to * the ceremonies in ufe at that court." This affair gave the miniftry at pekin much trouble; and, I muft.
confefs^
A JOURNEY
confefs, the miflionaries took great pains to foften chap. matters on both fides. 1
On the 28 th, the day appointed for the ambafla-dor's publick audience of the Emperor, horfes were brought to our lodgings for the ambafTador and his retinue; the Emperor being then at a country houfe, called tzan-shu-yang, about fix miles weft ward from Pekin.   We mounted at eight in the morning, and about ten arrived at court; where we alighted, at the gate, which was guarded by a ftrong party of foldiers. The commanding officers conducted us into a large room, where we drank tea, and flaid about half an hour till the Emperor was ready to receive us. We then entered a fpacious court, enclofed with high brick-walls, and regularly planted with feveral rows of foreft- trees, about eight inches diameter, which I took to be limes.   The walks are fpread with fmall gravel; and the great walk is terminated by the hall of audience, behind which are the Emperors private apartments.    On each fide of the great walk are fine flower-plots and canals. As we advanced, we found all the miniftcrs of ftate, and officers belonging to the court, feated upon fur cufhions, crofs legged, before the hall, in the open air; among thefe, places were
appointed
6 A JOURNEY
chap.ix. appointed for the ambafTador and his retinue; and in I72°- this fituation we remained, in a cold frofty morning till the Emperor came into the hall. During this interval, there were only two or three fervants in the hall, and not the lead: noife was heard from any quarter. The entry to the hall is by feven marble fteps, the whole length of the building. The floor is finely paved with a neat checker-work of white and black marble. The edifice is quite open to the fouth; and the roof fupported by a row of handfome wooden pillars, octangular, and finely polifhed; before which is hung a large canvafs, as a fhelter from the heat of the fun, or inclemencies of the weather.
After we had waited about a quarter of an hour, the Emperor entered the hall at a back-door, and feat-ed himfelf upon the throne; upon which all the company flood. The mafler of the ceremonies now de-fired the ambafTador, who was at fome diflance from the reft, to walk into the hall; and conducted him by one hand, while he held his credentials in the other. Having afcended the fteps, the letter was laid on a table placed for that purpofe, as had been previoufly agreed; but the Emperor beckoned to the ambafTador, and directed him to approach; which he no fooner
perceived,
TO    PEKIN." 7 perceived, than he took up the credentials, and, at- chap. ix. tended by aloy, walked up to the throne, and, kneel-^7^ ing, laid them before the Emperor; who touched them with his hand, and inquired after his Czarifh Majefty s health.   He then told the ambafTador, that the love and friendfhip he entertained for his majefty were fuch, that he had even difpenfed with an eftablifhed cuftom of the empire in receiving his letter.
During this part of the ceremony, which was not long, the retinue continued ftanding without the hall; and we imagined, the letter being delivered, all was over. But the mafter of the ceremonies brought back the ambafTador; and then ordered all the company to Wei, and make obeifance nine times to the Emperor. At every third time we flood up, and kneeled again. Great pains were taken to avoid this piece of homage, but without fuccefs. The mafter of the ceremonies flood by, and delivered his orders in the tartar language, by pronouncing the words morgu and bofs\ the firft meaning to bow, and the other to ftand; two Words which I cannot foon forget.
This piece of formality being ended, the mafter of the ceremonies conducted the ambafTidor, and the fix gentlemen of the retinue, with one interpreter, into
the
8 A JOURNEY
chap. ix. the hall. Our clerks, inferior officers, and fervants, vj^^jremained (till without; together with many courtiers and officers of diftinction. We were feated on our own cufhions, in a row upon the floor, to the right of the throne, about fix yards diftance. And immediately behind us fat three mifTionaries, drefled in Chinese habits, who conftantly attend the court. On this occafion, they ferved, by turns, as interpreters.
Soon after we were admitted, the Emperor called the ambafTador to him, took him by the hand, and talked very familiarly on various fubjecls. Among other things, he told him, that, he was informed his Czarifh Majefty expofed his perfon to many dangers, particularly by water; at which he was much furprifed; but defired he would take the advice of an old man; and not hazard his life, by committing himfelf to the race of the mcrcilcfs waves and winds, where no va-lour could avail. We were near enouirh to hear this piece of friendly and wholefome advice.
This converfation being (inifhed, the Emperor gave the ambafTador, with his own hand, a gold cup full of warm taraffun; a fweet fermented liquor, made of various forts of grain, as pure and ftrong as canary wine, of a difagreeable fmell, though not unpleafant to
the
TO    PEKIN. 9 the tafte.   This cup was brought about to the gentle- chap.ix.
i I ~7 2 O
men; and all of us drank the Emperor's health j who ob-ferved, that this liquor would warm us that cold morning. His Majefty alfo found many faults with our drefs, as improper for a cold climate; and, I muft con-ftfs, I thought him in the right.
On the left fide of the throne fat five Princes, fons to the Emperor; together with all the minifters and grandees of the court.   The taraffun, however, was handed about to none but ourfelvcs, and the Jesuits behind us.   Eight or ten of the Emperor's grandfons now entered the hall.   They were very handfome, and plainly drefted; having nothing to diftinguiih them, but the dragon with five claws, woven into their outer garments, and a yellow tunic of fattin, bearing the fame device, with little caps on their heads faced with fable.   After them came the muficians carrying their inflruments.   By this time the hall was pretty full; and, what is furprifing, there was not the leaft noife, hurry, or confufion.   Every one perfectly knows his own bufinefs; and the thick paper foles of the Chinese boots prevent any noife from their walking on the floor.   By thefe means every thing goes on with great regularity; but at the fame time with wonderful quick-Vol. II. B ncfs
ro A JOURNEY
chap. ix. nefs.   In fhort, the chara&eriftic of the court of pe-I72°* kin is order and decency,, rather than grandeur and magnificence. ........
The Emperor fat crofs-legged on his throne. He was drcfled in a fhort loofe coat of fable, having the fur outward, lined with lamb-skin; under which he wore a long tunic of yellow filk, interwoven with figures of golden dragoris with five claws; which device no pcifon is allowed to bear except the imperial family. On his head was a little round cap, faced with black fox skin; on the top of which I obferved a large beautiful pearl in the fhapc of a pear, which, together with a taiTel of red-filk tied below the pearl, was all the ornament I faw about this mighty monarch. The throne alfo was very fimple, being made of wood; but of neat workmanlhip. It is raifed five eafy fteps from the floor, is open towards the company; but has a large japanned fcreen on each fide to defend it from the wind.
The mafter of the ceremonies, and a few officers of the houfhold, were drelled in robes of ftate, of irold and lilver fluffs, with monftrous dragons on-their backs and breads. Mod of the minifters of ftate were dref-fed very plain, having nothing like ornaments about
them
TO    PEKIN. H them; a few only had large rubies, fapphires, and e-cHAP.ix. meralds.   Thefe precious ftones are cut into the (hape^J^^ of pears, through which a hole is drilled, to fix them on the top of their bonnets.   Thefe holes diminifh the value of the ftones, one half at leaft, at an European market.   I once faw, however, one of thefe rubies, with a hole drilled through it, which was bought at pekin for a trifle, valued at ten thoufand pounds Sterling in Europe.   But fuch bargains are rarely to be met with; this being a ftone of the firft clafs, for bignefs and purity.   As for diamonds, the Chinese, it feems, do not much efteem them; for few diamonds are found in china, and thefe very rudely cut and fliaped; and fo, indeed, are all their coloured ftones.
It was now about n6on; at which time our entertainment began to be ferved up; (of which I fhall alfo give fome account.) There were firft brought neat little tables, covered with variety of fruits and confections, and placed before all the company. It feems to be the fafhion in this country to bring the defert firft; at leaft that was the cafe at all the entertainments where I was prefent. In this, as in many other things, the behaviour of the Chinese is quite contrary to that of the Europeans.   Soon after the
B 2 fruits5
12 a journey
chap. ix. fruits, the victuals were ferved in the fame manner, ^7^^and placed on fmall tables before the guells. They confided of fowls, mutton, and pork, all very good of their kinds; and the whole was either boiled, or (tewed with pickles; but nothing roafted. The Emperor fent feveral difhes from his own table to the ambalTa-dor, particularly fome boiled pheafants; which were very agreeable.
The mufick played all the time of dinner. The chief inftruments were flutes, harps, and lutes, all tuned to the Chinese tafte.   There was alfo fome vocal mufick; an old tartar, in particular, fung a warlike fong, to which he beat time, by finking, with two ivory rods, upon a chime of little bells that hung before him.   A young tartar fung a call to war, dancing at the fame time, and keeping time by drawing the head of an arrow a-crofs his fhield. Then entered two little girls, who danced and fung while the inflrumcnts played.   After them came tumblers, who performed various feats of activity, in the court before the hall.   Thefe were fuccccded by wrefllers, fencers, and other performers of the fame fpecics. The Emperor fent frequently to the ambaflador, to ask how he liked the mufick, dancing, and other entertain-
to pekin. 13 tertainments. He alfo inquired abouc feveral princes chap. ix. and ftates of EUROPE, with whofe power, by fea and^^j^ land, he was not unacquainted. But, above all, he wondered how the kingdom of swlden could hold out fo long againft fo great a power as that of Russia. After this converfation, the Emperor informed the ambalTador that he would foon fend for him a-gain; but, as the night was cold, he would detain him no longer at prefent; and immediately ftcpt from his throne, and returned to his private apartments by the fame paffage he left them. We alfo mounted, and repaired to our lodgings in the city, fo well frtisfied with the gracious and friendly reception of the Emperor, that all our former hardlhips were almoft forgot.
The 29th, the Mandarin tulishin came to our lodgings, with two clerks, and took a lift of the pre-fents, fent by the Czar to the Emperor. Thefe confided of various rich furs, clocks, repeating watches fet in diamonds, mirrors; and the battle of poltava, nicely turned in ivory, done by his Czarifh Majefty s own hands, and fet in a curious frame. The ambaf-fador, at the fame time, delivered to the Mandarin, as a prefent from himfelf to the Emperor, feveral toys
of
!4 a journey
chap. ix. of value, a fine managed horfe, fome grey-hounds, and I720, large buck-hounds.
Every thing was entered in a book, very exactly, even the names and qualities of each particular dog. There was alfo tied about the neck of each dog, a yellow filk-cord, drawn through a hole in a little bit of wood, which hung from the dogs neck, as a mark of its belonging to the court. The Chinese, in general, are very fond of little harlequin dogs that play monkey tricks. A fervant of ours had one of that kind, which he fold for an hundred ounces of filver.
The fame day, all the fruits and confections of the entertainment given at the audience, which remained, were fent to the ambalTador's lodgings. They were carried in great ltate through the ftreets, covered with yellow filk; and an officer of the court walked before the procelTton.
Next day, the Emperor fent to our lodgings feveral large dimes of maiTive gold, containing a kind of delicate flfh, called mu, already drefTcd; but in fuch a manner that I did not know to what to compare it. Alfo fome bowls filled with excellent vermicelli; and a fort of paltry-puffs, baked over the fleam of boiling water, exceeding, in whitenefs, any thing of that kind
I
TO    P e k I n. 15 I ever faw.   All thefe things were fent from his Ma- chap.ix. jelly's own table; an honour which he grants but ^J^j dom.   It feems he was refolved we mould have pro-vifions in abundance.; for, befides all thefe, we received our daily allowance, in which we were by no means Hinted.
After dinner, the mailer of the ceremonies, accompanied with the captain of the eunuchs, and three Jesuits, came to vifit the ambalTador. This eunuch was a great favourite of the Emperor, on account of the knowledge he had acquired in mathematics and mechanics. He made the ambalTador a prefent of a fin all enamelled gold-watch, and a wind-gun, both of his own making. The Emperor himfelf is a great lover of the arts, fo far, that, whoever diftinguilhes himfelf, in any ufeful branch of them, is fure to meet with proper encouragement. The eunuch alfo made a prefent, to the ambalTador, of a fleel to flrikc fire; and then defired to fee the prefents; which was granted. At taking leave, aloy told the ambalTador, that the Emperor intended to give him a Chinese drefs, which was more convenient and warmer than the European.
December the fir ft, mer in-gancuin, a general officer
j6 ajourney
chap. ix. cer, and brother to the firft minifter of ftate, came to 1720. vj^ic tjie ambaiTador. Notwithftanding the high rank of this military gentleman, he had no fword about him; for, at pekin, no perfon, not even officers and fol-diers, except when on duty, wears a fword, or any other weapon, in the city.
The day following, the ambaiTador had a fecond audience of the Emperor, at the fame palace. On this occafion the Czar's prefents were carried to court, by a number of people fent for that purpofe. The Emperor viewed them all at a diftance; after which they were delivered to an officer appointed by his majefty to receive them.   This audience was held in a private hall within the inner-court, where only the officers of the houlhold, and the gentlemen of the retinue, were prefent.   We were entertained in the fame manner as before.   The Emperor converfed very familiarly with the ambaflador, on various fubjec"ts; and talked of peace and war, in particular, in the ftyle of a philofopher.   In the evening, we returned to the city, in a cold north wind, which blew the duft about in clouds.   Scarcely had we arrived, when the fruits and confections, according to cuftom, were fent to our lodgings.
The
to    pekin. 17 This evening, one of the Emperor's grandfons came chap.ix. to vifit the ambaiTador.   He was a genteel youth, a- JZ^^ bout fourteen years of age, and had not above half a dozen of attendants.
Next day, the weather continued cold and frofly. The sky was clear, and a ftrong wind at north-weft, blowing the duft about. I obferved that the north-weft winds are the coldeft in this place; as they come over the vaft tracts of ice and fnow in Siberia.
The 4th, there was a fall of fnow, to the deepnefs of feven or eight inches; which was immediately thrown into heaps, and the ftreets clean fwept.   This day the miftionaries fent a prefent to the ambalTador, confiding of feveral forts of venifon, and wild-fowl, and a greater variety of fine fruits, and confections, than I ever faw in any country; together with a couple of jars of wine made by themfelves.   Among the fruits there were fome fpecies which I had never before feen; particularly a fort of apple, about the fize of a common orange, with a fmooth skin of a yellowiiTi colour, very foft and fweet, or rather lufcious; alfo a fruit about the bignefs of a walnut, but quite round, refembling in tafte a prune, but far more delicious;  it contains a fmooth hard ftone; and the whole is covered Vol. II. C with
x8
a journey
chap. ix. with a thin brownilh (hell, fo brittle that it is eafily
mon, the fiuit does not adhere to the fhcll, but a fmall vacuity is left between them. Jt is not only pleafant to the tafle, but is accounted very wholefome.
The 5 th, the ambaiTador had a third audience of the Emperor, in the palace at pekin. As fome affairs relating to the two empires were to be difcufTed, the fe-crctary only, M. de lange, accompanied the ambaf-fador. After he was introduced, the Emperor told him, he had given orders to the tribunal for weftern affairs to hear the fubjecl: of his commifTion; and then retired to his own apartments, leaving his minifters to tranfact the bufinefs; which was foon finifhed on this occafion; and the ambafTador returned to his lodgings.
The 6th, being st. nicolas' day, a great feftival in the greek church, the ambaflador went to the Russian chapel in pekin to hear divine fervice. This houfe ftands within the city, under the eaft wall; and was built, by the bounty of the prefent Emperor k a m h i, on the following occafion.
About
TO    PEKIN, 19 About the year 1688, there happened a difference chap.ix. betwixt the government of Siberia and the Chinese, J^Z^j about a fmall fort, called albazin, which the Russians had built upon the banks of the river amoor. The Chinese alledo-ed the fort was erected on their territories; and, jealous of the approach of fuch powerful neighbours, made feveral fruitlefs representations to the governor of Siberia to have it demolished. The Emperor, at laft, impatient of longer delay, fent an army of above one hundred thoufand men, to do by force what could not be accomplished by negotiation. They inverted the place on all fides, and raifed batteries againft it.   After a vigorous defence, the garri-fon, confiftine of about three or four hundred cos-sacks, was obliged to furrender for want of provift-fions.   No terms could be obtained; and all the Russians were made prifoners of war.   In confequence of which they were carried to pekin, where the Emperor generoully afllgned them houfes apart from the reft of the inhabitants, permitted the free exercife of their religion, and gave them a daily allowance equal with his own foldiers.   By this mild treatment they were enabled to build the little chapel, which they ftill poiTefs.   The defcendents of thefe prifoners are pret-
C 2 ty
2o a journey
chap. ix. ty numerous, and ufeful to their countrymen the ^7^^Russians as interpreters. I formerly mentioned that thefe difputes were ended on the following terms; the prifoners on both fides were to remain unexchanged, and the fort of albazin to be defhoyed; fince which time the two empires have continued in good correfpondence. The inhabitants of Siberia, indeed, regret much the lofs of their fort; as it flood in a fine climate, gave them pofTeffion of a large extent of country northward from the amoor ; and, befides, o-pened a paflage down that river to the Japanese ocean. It was, however, the occafion of eflablifliing the - creek church in china; which flill continues to flou-rifh, though its members are not very numerous. As one priefl dies, another from Siberia fucceeds him; who minds chiefly his own fmall flock, and thinks very little of making converts. This circumflance prevents their being obnoxious to the roman miflio-naries, who can have no fufpicion of their intefering with the interefts of their church. Thefe miflionaries are conflantly employed in making profelytes, and their endeavours have been attended with fome fuc-ccfs.
The 7 th, we dined at the aleggada's, where we were
magni-
TO    PEKIN. 21 magnificently entertained.   There was no other com- chap. ix. pany but ourfelves, and we (laid the whole day.  This ^L^j was the moft elegant and complete entertainment of any I faw in china.
About ten o'clock in the morning, chairs were fent for the ambalTador and gentlemen of the retinue, and horfes for the fervants, though the prime minifter's houfe was very near our lodgings.   The chairs were carried through two courts, and fet down at the en-try into a hall, where the aleggada waited to receive the ambaiTador.   After entering the hall, we were feated on neat cane chairs, with japanned frames, inlaid with mother of pearl.   The apartment itfelf was Very fimple, open to the fouth, and the roof fupported, on that fide, by a row of well turned wooden pillars. It had no deling; but the rafters appeared finely polluted, and perfectly clean.   The floor was paved with a checker-work of white and black marble; and in the middle of it flood a large brafs chafing-diih, in lhape of an urn, full of charcoal.   At the entry were placed two large chi n a-cifterns, filled with pure water, in which played fome fcores of fmall fifties, catching at crumbs of bread thrown into the water.   Thefe uihes are about the lize of a minnow, but of a different
fhape,
22 a journey
chap. ix. fhape, and beautifully varied with red, white, and yel-172°- lowfpots; and therefore called the gold and filver fifh. I never faw any of them out of this country; though, I imagine, they might eafily be brought to europe, as they are by no means of the tender kind. I had about twenty of them {landing in a window at my lodgings; in a morning, after a frolly night, I found all the water frozen, mod of the limes ftifF, and feemingly dead; but, on putting them into cold frefh water, they all recovered, except two or three.
After we had drunk a difh of tea, a collation of broths and victuals was placed on the tables, intermixed with variety of fruits and confections. Every perfon had a table a-part, and all were ferved in the lame manner. This repaft, it feems, was only break-fafl, though it might well have pafTed for dinner.
After this entertainment the aleggada carried us nrfl to fee his dogs, of which he had great variety. I formerly obferved that this gentleman was a great fportfman. He took greater pleafure in talking of hounds than politicks; though, at the fame time, he had the character of a very able minifter, and an honed man.
We were now conducted through all the different
apart-
TO    PEKIN. 23 apartments of his houfe, excepting only thofe of the chap. ix. ladies, to which none have accefs but himfelf, and the eunuchs who attend them.   We faw a noble collection of many curiofities, both natural and artificial; particularly a large quantity of old porcelain or china-ware, made in china and japan ; and, at prefent, to he found only in the cabinets of the curious. They confuted chiefly of a great number of jars of different fees.   He took much pleafure in telling when and where they were manufactured; and, as far as I can remember, many of them were above two thoufand years old.   He added, that, both in china and japan, they had loft the art of making porcelain in that perfection they did in former times; and the fault, in his opinion, lay in the preparation of the materials. Thefe curiofities were piled up on fhelves to the very roof of the houfe, and in fuch order and fymmetry as had a pretty effect.
From the houfe we went into a little garden, enclosed with a high brick-wall. In the middle of it ftood a fmall bafin, full of water, furrounded with feveral old crooked trees and fhrubs; among which I few that which produces the famous tea. The climate about pekin being too cold for this fhrub, there are only a
few
24 a journey
chap. ix. few bufhes of it to be found in the gardens of the cu-1720. rious<    1 mall not at prefent enlarge on this ufeful plant, which appeared like a currant-buih, as an opportunity will occur of giving a fuller account of it before I leave this place.   There was a walk round the garden, which, together with that in the middle, was covered with fmall gravel. At each end of the middle-walk was a piece of artificial rock-work, with water running under it, through holes fo natural they looked as if made by the current of the ftream.   The rocks were about feven feet high, and fhaded with fome old bended trees.  This garden, and many other things in china, difplay the talte of the inhabitants for imitating nature.
From the garden we were called to dinner, where we found a plentiful and elegant entertainment, fet out in the fined order, far exceeding any thing of that kind we had feen before. We had no mufick nor dancing, and the whole was conducted with furprifing decency and regularity. The entertainment lafted about two hours, after which we returned to our lodgings.
This day, our gates were opened to people of all characters, and merchants and others allowed to go in and out at pleafure.  Though all communication was
not
TO PEKIN. 25 not prohibited before this time; it was, however, dif- chap.ix. ficult; and not to be obtained without permifTion °f^v^ the proper officer.
The 8 th, we dined at the fouth convent, where the Italian mifTionaries generally refide. Here all the Jesuits in the place, to the number of ten or twelve, were affembled. We met with a friendly reception, and a molt fplendid entertainment.
This convent ftands within the city, upon a piece of ground given to the fathers by the Emperor. He gave alfo ten thoufand ounces of filver towards building and adorning the chapel; which is, indeed, very neat; and handfomely decorated with pictures of faints, and fcripture-pieces, by the befl hands. An account of this remarkable benefaction of the Emperor kamhi is cut out, in the Chinese language, in letters of gold, and fixed above the great gate; which makes the place more refpected. When we arrived, one of the priefts was officiating in the chapel, where were affembled a-bout one hundred Chinese converts. At dinner we had a few bottles of wine, made in the convent; but I cannot fay it was good; though the grapes were fine, and of an agreeable tafte.
After dinner, we were conducted to the Emperors
Vol. II. D ftables
26 a journey
chap. ix. ftables, where the elephants are kept.   The keeper I720t asked the ambaiTador to walk into his apartments, till they were equipped; then we went into the court, and faw thefe huge animals richly caparifoned in gold and filver fluffs.   Each had a rider on his back, who. held in their hands fmall battle-axes, with a fharp pike at one end, to drive and guide them.  We flood about an hour admiring thofe fagacious animals; fome o£ them were very large, who, paffing before us at equal diftances, returned again behind the ftables; and fo on round and round, till there feemed to be no end of the proceffion.   The plot, however, was at laft difco-vercd, by the features and drefs of the riders; and the chief keeper told us there were only fixty of them. The climate about pekin is too cold for them to breed; and all thefe were brought from warmer countries.   The Emperor keeps them only for mow, and makes no ufe of them, at leaft in thefe northern parts. Some of them were brought near to the place where we fat, and made obeifance to us, by kneeling and making a dreadful noife; others fucked up water from veffels, and fpouted it through their trunks, among the mob, or wherever the rider directed.   The fagar city of thefe animals is mofl furprifing, and approaches-
TO    PEKIN. 27 *s fo near to reafon, that, in this refpect, they furpafs chap.ix. all the brute creation.   After this (how, we took *eave of the jesuits, who had accompanied us hither, and returned to our lodgings.
Next day, all the gentlemen dined at the palace of the Emperor's ninth fon, in confequence of an invitation from his chief eunuch, who is a great friend to the RussiA-houfe.   As the invitation was not from the Prince, the ambaiTador would not accept of it. Our entertainment was very magnificent, and accompanied with mufick, dancing, and a kind of comedy, which Lifted mod part of the day.   The comedians "Were of both fexes; if the women's parts were not performed by boys dreffed like actreffes.   As the play Was in the CHINESE language, I could undcrftand nothing of it, except from the gefture and action of the performers.   It feemed to be a parcel of detached dif-■iimilar interludes, without any principal end, or unity •of defign.   I mall, therefore, only mention one fcene, which appeared to me the moft extraordinary. There entered, on the ftage, feven warriors, all in armour, with different weapons in their hands, and terrible vizards on their faces.   After they had taken a few turns about the ftage, and furveyed each others ar-
jj 2 mouf
28 A JOURNEY
chap.ix. mour, they, at laft, fell a quarrelling; and, in the l72°' encounter, one of the heroes was flain. Then an angel defcended from the clouds, in a fiafh of lightning, with a monftrous fword in his hand, and foon parted the combatants, by driving them all off the ftage; which done, he afcended in the fame manner he came down, in a cloud of fire and fmoke. This fcene was fucceeded by feveral comical farces, which, to me, feemed very diverting, though in a language I did not underftand. The laft character that appeared on the ftage, was a European gentleman, completely dreffed, having all his cloaths bedawbed with gold and filver lace. He pulled off his hat, and made a profound reverence to all that pafled him. I fhall leave it to any one to imagine, what an aukward figure a Chinese muft make in this ridiculous habit. This fcene was interrupted, and the performers difmifled, by the mafter of the feaft, from a fufpicion that his guefts might take offence. The play being finifhed, we were entertained with jugglers, who exhibited a variety of legerdemain tricks with great dexterity.
The banquet was prolonged the whole day, excepting the time fpent in thefe interludes. No fooner was one couife carried off, than another was inftantly
placed
TO    PEKIN. *9 placed upon the tables; and the whole concluded with chap.ix. deferts of fruits and fweetmeats.   One would fcarce^^^ have imagined, that luxury had made fuch progrefs among the fober and induftrious Chinese.   It muft, indeed, be obferved, that, there is almoft no drinking at their entertainments, as they ufe no liquor, on thefe occafions, but tea, and, now and then, a dram of hot arrack.   The Chinese handle the two ivory or wooden pins, which they ufe inftead of forks, with fuch dexterity, that they can even take up needles with them.   In place of napkins they fometimes employ a few fquare pieces of paper.
CHAPTER X.
Continuation of occurrences at pekin, ©»fc
^jHHE day following, the ambaiTador had a fourth audience of the Emperor, at the palace in the city. This interview was alfo private, and the ambaiTador was attended only by his fecretary. The Emperor repeated the affurances of his friendlhip for his Czarifh Maje* fty, talked ftrongly on the vanity and uncertainty of all human affairs; adding, that he was now an old man,
and
jo A JOURNEY
chap. x. and, by the courfe of nature, could not live long, and I720, defired to die in peace with god and all mankind. At taking leave, each of them was prefented with a complete Chinese fuit of cloaths, made of ftrong fdk, interwoven with dragons claws, and lined with fable.
The i 2th, we dined at the French or weftern convent, where we again found all the miiTIonaries. The chapel, and other edifices, are handfome; but not fo grand as the Italian convent.   Father paranim is prefident of this convent; he is a man of parts and addrefs, and in great favour with the Emperor.   I was informed this entertainment was given at the expence of the court, and had fome reafon to believe it was fo, as it far exceeded what might reafonably be expected from the jesuits.   The Emperors band of mufick played all the time of dinner; after which we had jugglers and tumblers of great activity.   Among the many feats and tricks performed by thefe people, I fhall only mention two or three, which feemed molt uncommon.   The roof of the room where we fat, was fupported by wooden pillars.   The juggler took a gimlet, with which he bored one of the pillars, and asked, whether we chofe red or white wine? the que-ftion being anfwered, he pulled out the gimlet, and
put
TO   PEKIN. 31
put a quill in the hole, through which run, as from a chap.x.
1 v 2 o
cask, the wine demanded.   After the fame manner, ^Jy^j he extracted feveral forts of liquors, all which I had the curiofity to tafte, and found them good of their kinds.
Another of thefe expert youths took three long faarp-pointed knives, and, throwing them up by turns, kept one always in each hand, and the third in the a'u\ This he continued to perform for a confider-ahle time, catching conftantfy the falling knife by the handle, without ever allowing it to touch the floor. The knives were exceeding (harp, fo that, had he miffed laying hold of the handles, he muft infallibly have loft fome of his ringers.
The fame perfon took a wooden ball, fomewhat lefs than thofe commonly ufed in bowling greens, with a hole through the middle of it, and a rod, two feet Wg, about the fize of a walking ftaff, pointed at the extremity, to fit the hole in the ball. He then tolled the ball above a yard high, and caught it again upon the point of the rod; not in the hole of the ball, but wherever it happened to meet the point; and, in this banner, he continued to throw up and catch the ball, for a confidcrable. time.   He .now.placed the ball upon
the
j2 A JOURNEY
chap.x. the point of the rod, taking no notice of the hole, and ^7^^twirled it round like a top, fo quickly, that the motion could not be obferved. This feemed extremely dextrous; for, all the while, he played with the ball in appearance; and, when the motion began to flacken, gave it a frefh twirl with his hand, as if the rod and ball had been fattened to each other.
This perfon alfo placed a large earthen difh, above eighteen inches diameter, upon the point of the fame rod, and twirled it round in the fame manner as he did the ball; during this fwift motion, he did not always keep the point in the centre of the vefTel; on the contrary, he often held it within three inches of the brim. I fhall only mention one inftance more.
There were placed erect, upon the pavement of the room, two bambos, which are a kind of cane. The length of them was about twenty five feet; at the lower end I reckon them to be near five inches diameter, and, at the top, about the breadth of a crown piece. They were ftraight, light, and fmooth; and each fup-ported by two men. Two boys then climbed up the poles, without the leaft afMance; and, having reached the top, flood upright, fometimes on one foot and fome-times on the other, and then upon their heads. This
TO    PEKIN. 33 being done, they laid one hand on the top of the pole, chap. x. and ftretched out their bodies almoft at right angles to it. In this pofture they continued for a confiderable time, and even fhifted hands.   I obferved that much depended on the men who held the poles; one of the two at each pole having it fixed to his girdle; and they kept a fteady eye on the motions of the boys. There were about twenty or thirty of thefe performers, who all belong to the Emperor, and never difplay their art without his permiffion.   I am fully perfuaded, that, in tricks and feats of dexterity, few nations can equal, and none excel, the Chinese.
After thefe diverfions, we were conducted to the Emperors glafs-houfe, which his Imperial Majefty often vifits with pleafure.   It was erected by himfelf, and is the firft manufactory of the kind that ever was in china.   The perfon employed to fuperin-tend and carry on this defign was kilian stumpff, a German father, lately deceafed; a man in great favour with the Emperor, and well known, in china, for his ingenuity and literature.   His Majefty is fo fond of this glafs-work, that he fent feveral of the moft curious of its productions in a prefent to his Cza-riih Majefty.   It is furprifing, that the Chinese, who Vol. IL E havc
j4 A JOURNEY
chap. x. have been conftantly employed, for fo many ages, in 172°- the manufacture of cHiNA-ware, (hould never have
'"/"V^ {tumbled upon that of glafs. This mows evidently, that the degree of heat neceffary in their ovens muft not be very great, or their materials free from fand; for it is certain they had no knowledge of glafs, of any kind, till this houfe was erected. I was informed, that, not long ago, fome Europeans brought to canton a parcel of prifms, or triangular glafTes, which the Chinese took for natural productions of rock-chryftal; and bought them at the rate of one hundred ounces of filver a-piece. But, from the great quantity imported, they foon difcovercd their miftake.
On the evening of the 14th, an officer came from court, defiring the ambafTador to wait on the Emperor at his palace of tzangsuanc j and bring his mu-ficians along with him. Thefe confifted of performers on violins, trumpets, and kettle-drums.
Next day, we arrived at the palace, about ten of the clock; and had immediate admittance to the Emperor's private apartments, few being prefent but the officers of the houfhold and Father paranim. After a fhort conference the mufick was ordered to play. There were in the room ten or twelve of the Emperor's
TO PEKIN. rors grandfons, who feemed much entertained with chap the inftruments. I asked an elderly gentleman, who ftood by me, how he liked the mufick; he faid it was very good, but their own was better. No ladies were to be feen; though, I believe, feveral of them were behind a fcreen at the other end of the room.
The mufick being over, the Emperor ordered one of the princes to conduct the ambaiTador into the gardens belonging to the palace; into which we entered, along a draw bridge, over a canal of pure water. They abounded with (haded walks, arbours, and fifh-ponds, in the chines e tafte.   The young princes entertained themfelves by mooting with bows and arrows.   Some of them difplayed great dexterity, being accuftomed from their infancy to this exer-eife, which is accounted both genteel and healthy; as the drawing of the bow extends and ftrengthens the mufcles both of the breaft and arms.   One of the Princes ihewed us a bow and arrows, ufed by the Em-Peror when young; by which it appeared that he had been a perfon of extraordinary bodily ftrength. After we had furveyed the gardens in every quarter, we took leave of the princes, and returned to the city.
This day, arrived in pekin Signior mezzobarba,
£ 2 ambaiTa-
36 A JOURNEY
chap. x. ambalTador from his Holinefs the Pope to the Empe-^7^^ ror. This gentleman was a cardinal, and patriarch of Alexandria. His retinue was compofed of ecclefia-flicks of different orders, and a few fervants, who were all lodged in the Italian convent. They came from Europe to macao in a Portuguese fhip; from thence to canton ; and then, by land, to this place.
The defign of this embafly was to enquire into the difputes and mifunderftanding, that had lately arifen in this country, betwixt the jesuits and Dominicans; relating to certain rites annually performed by the Chinese christians, at the tombs of their deceafed parents or other relations. This cuftom feems to be the fame with that of the parentalia anciently in ufe anions the greeks and Romans. It is univerfal in china, from the emperor to the meaneft peafant. It feems the jesuits permitted their converts to vifit the tombs of their relations; alledging, that, without fuch indulgence, no perfon would embrace Christianity; and, that time would wean them from fuch fuperftiti-ous ceremonies. The Dominicans, on the other hand, affirmed that it was next to idolatry, and declared it unlawful to allow any fuch cuftom; ftrictly prohibiting all conformity in their converts. Thefe
diffe-
TO    PEKIN. 37
differences, in all probability, will not foon be de- chap.x.
1720
termined.   The Emperor himfelf tried to make the Jy^j parties compromife matters; but, finding his endeavours ineffectual, he left them to agree or difpute according to their pleafure.   He inclined, indeed, to favour the opinion of the j e s u i t s, which he thought molt reafonable.    At any rate, it muft be acknowledged an inftance of uncommon condefcenfion, for an heathen Emperor to intereft himfelf fo much in the peace of a christian church.
The 16th, Mr. de lange and I paid a vifit to the Fathers fridelly and keaggler, at the oriental or German convent.   This place is large enough; but neither the chapel nor buildings are near fo magnificent as thofe of the two other convents.   It is called oriental, becaufe fituated in the eaftern diftrict of the city.   Both thefe fathers, and feveral other ecclefia-fticks of inferior rank in this convent, are Germans. One of the fathers was a clock-maker; and, by fuch means, they frequently infinuate themfelves into acquaintance with people of diftinction, who protect them in times of danger.   For, in chin a, they have ftill a great number of enemies, who would gladly fee
both them and their religion extirpated; but the favour
58 A JOURNEY
chap.x. vour of the prefent Emperor hath hitherto prevented, 172°* ox difappointed, the defign of fuch perfons.
The 17th, I fent to inform the captain of the Chinese guard, that I intended to take a turn through the city; who immediately gave orders for a foldier to attend me. When we pafied through the gate, the clerk marked our names in his book, and daihed them out at our return. I went into feveral fhops, where were fold different kinds of merchandife; particularly thofe of the goldfmiths, whofe bufinefs it is to exchange gold for filver, or filver for gold. In thefe fhops are found vafl quantities of thofe valuable metals, caft into bars of different fizes, and piled up one upon another; which are fold only by weight, as there is no current coin in this country; except one fmall round piece of brafs, with a fquare hole in the middle, through which may be run a firing, for the convenience of carrying them to market. This coin, called jofs by the chines e, is about the value of one tenth of a penny fterling; and is extremely ufcful among the common people. With one of them, a man can buy a difh of hot tea, a pipe of tobacco, or a dram of brandy, in the flreets; and a beggar may dine for three of them. There are, indeed, few beggars to be feen in the city;
but,
TO    PEKIN. 39 but, notwithstanding the labour and induftry of the chap.x. inhabitants, they are fo numerous, that it is hard-^^^ ly poflible to prevent many from being reduced to the utmoft neceflity.   There are cooks (hops, where dogs and cats, and fuch other creatures, are dreffed for the entertainment of thefe people.   Thefe coins have kamhi, the name of the Emperor, on one fide ; and the words tum pao, or the univerfal price, on the other.
When the Chinese have occafion to buy any thing, above the value of fixpence, they cut off a piece of fd-Ver, and weigh it \ which is done in a trice.
Althoueh the want of current coin feems ill calcu-lated for the difpatch of bufinefs, the Chinese find no inconvenience on that account. It is info far preferable to money, that it lofes little by wearing in the circulation; which coin does, perhaps, more than is generally imagined.
In moft of the {hops I found both men, and women, unveiled. They were extremely complaifant, and gave me a dim of tea in every fhop. Thefe people expofe their gold and filver, and other goods of value, with as much freedom and fecurity, as the merchants do in London or Amsterdam.
The
<p A JOURNEY
chap.x. The 19th, lange and I went to the french con-I720* vent, but not one of the ecclefiafticks were at home; having all gone to attend Signor mezzobarba at an audience of the Emperor; except an old gentleman, Monfieur bouvett, who had formerly written a fmall treatife, entitled, " Le portrait de TEmpereur de la " chine;" which he had printed in Europe. The 20th, cold and windy.
The 2 1 ft, froft and fnow, which foftened the air, and laid the duft.
Next day, the ambafTador, with fecretary lange, went to the council appointed for weftern affairs, and had a conference on the fubject of his embafTy.
The winter here lafts only about two months; but is very fharp and piercing while the wind is northerly. If the wind, indeed, is foutherly, the air is mild and pleafant, and the sky clear. I mentioned above, that the Chinese have a method of keeping themfelves warm during the cold, which I fhall now defcribe as diftinclly as I can.
In building a houfe, they make two ftove-holes, one in each fide-wall, about three feet from the gable-end. The holes are a foot fquare; one ferves for receiving the fewel, and the other to let out the fmoke, when the
ftove
•*r O   V E K I N. 41 ^ftove is finifhed.   There is a partition of brick, which chap.X. runs from one fide of the houfe to the other, about five L or fix feet from the gable, and only eighteen inches high; which I (hall call the front of the ftove-bench. Between this and the gable, are built feveral other thin partitions of brick, in a direction at right angles to the firft, having a fmall opening at the extremity of ;each.   For example, fuppofe the paffage in the firft partition to the right hand, and in the fecond to the left; and fo on, alternately, to the laft, which communicates with the hole, on the other fide of the room, for letting- out the fmoke.   Thefe divifions being made, the whole is arched, or otherwife covered with hrick; above which is laid a layer of clay, or plainer, to prevent the fmoke from rifmg through the furface. It is plain, that below this bench there will be a winding channel for the fmoke, from one fide of the room to the other.   A few handfuls of brush-wood, ftraW, °r any kind of fewel, will warm the bench, as much as is neceiTary, to work or deep without feeling cold. It is generally covered with mats, felts, or other thick ftuffs, according to the ability of the owner.
The 22d, Father keagclkr came to vifit us. This gentleman had been long in china, and was well ac-Vol. IL F quainted
^2 A JOURNEY
chap. x. quainted with the language, cuftoms, and manners, of 172°- the country. In talking of the extent of pekin, he faid, that nankin is at leaft three times as large. At this rate, nankin muft be one of the largeft cities in the world. He added, that it was fome what diminifh-ed, fince the court had left that place to relide at pekin. Nankin is a place of the moft extenfive commerce, and contains the greateft manufactories, of all forts of filk and cotton fluffs, of any city in the country; befides thofe of chin a-ware. It is watered by a fine navigable river, on which are employed an incredible number of boats, in carrying merchandife and paffengers.
The 23 d, cold northerly wind, and ftrong froft.
The 24th, christmas-e ve; the ambafTador heard divine fervice in the russ church.
The 25 th, the ambafTador and the whole retinue went to church.
The Emperor fent Father fridelly, accompanied by feveral Mandarins, with a prefent, to his Czarifh Majefty, of fix large boxes of tiles, made of china-ware, fit for fuch ftoves as are ufed, in Russia, for warming rooms. They were very pretty, blue and whitei and, with due care, may laft for ages.
January
TO    PEKIN. 43 January ift, 1721, the Emperors general of the ar- chap.x. tillery, together with Father fridelly, and a gentle- J^^J man, called stadlin, an old German, and a watchmaker, dined at the ambaffador's.   He was, by birth, a tartar; and, by his converfation, it appeared he was by no means ignorant in his profeflion, particularly with refpect to the various compofitions of gunpowder ufed in artificial fire-works.   I asked him, how Wg the Chinese had known the ufe of gun-powder? He replied, above two thoufand years, in fire-works, according to their records; but that its application to the purpofes of war, was only a late introduction. As the veracity and candour of this gentleman were well known, there was no room to queftion the truth of what he advanced on this fubject.
The converfation then turned on printing. He faid, he could not then afcertain, precifely, the antiquity of this invention; but, was abfolutely certain, it was much ancienter than that of gun-powder. It is to be obferved, that the Chinese print with ftamps, in the banner that cards are made in Europe. Indeed, the oonne&ion, between ftamping and printing, is fo clofe and obvious, that, it is furprifing the ingenious greeks
F 2 and
f4 A   J O U R N E ¥
chap.x. and Romans, fo famous for their medals, never difco-17 2 1 • vered the art of printing.
On this oGcafion, Father fridelly told me, thac feveral of the miftionaries, who had the good fortune, to be in favour with the Emperor, had often folicited that prince to become christian, and allow himfelf to be baptized; but he always excufed himfelf, by faying, he worfhipped the fame god with the christians; and that fuch a change of religion might occafion fome difturbance in the empire, which by all means he would endeavour to prevent.   However this be, it is certain, that, on Christmas day, he fent. one of his chief eunuchs to the Italian convent, with; orders, that prayers fhould be offered for him; which was accordingly done, and the eunuch remained in/ church all the time of divine fervice.
Next day, the ambafTador had another private audience of the Emperor, at the palace of tzan-shu-iang.. The weather being very cold, the hall was. warmed with feveral large chaflng-diJhcs, filled w-icht charcoal. We (laid above two hours; during whiclT time his Majefty talked very familiarly, on various fub-jects, particularly hiftory; wherein he difcovered hiirn fel£well acquainted with that of the holy fcriptures,
as-
TO    PEKIN. 45 as well as of his own country.   He faid, that the chro- chap. x.
• 17 2 1
nology of the Chinese was far more ancient than that cf the holy fcriptures; but obferved, that it ended back *n fabulous accounts, concerning which nothing certain could be determined.
As to noahs Hood, he affirmed, that, at or near the fenie time, there was a great deluge in china, which deftroyed all the inhabitants of the plains; but that fuch as efcaped to the mountains were faved.
He then difcourfed of the invention of the load-ft°ne, which, he faid, was known in china above two ^oufand years ago; for, it appeared from their records, that, a certain ambafTador, from fome diftant ifland, to the court of china, miffing his courfe, in a ft°rm, was caft on the Chinese coaft, in the utmoft diftrefs. The then Emperor, whofe name I have for-S°t, after entertaining him hofpitably, fent him back. to his own country. And, to prevent the like misfortunes, in his voyage homeward, gave him a com-Ms to direct his courfe.
The Emperor alfo confirmed mod of the particulars,. Mentioned above, concerning printing and gun-pow-^cr.   It is from the holy fcriptures, moft part of which, have, been tranllated by the miffionaries, that the learn-, v ; ed
46 A JOURNEY
chap.x. ed men, in china, have acquired any knowledge of l721- the weftern ancient hiftory.   And their own records, they fay, contain accounts of transactions of much greater antiquity.
At taking leave, the Emperor told the ambafTador that he liked his converfation. He defired to be ex-cufed for fending for him in fuch cold weather, and fmiling faid, he knew the Russians were not afraid of cold.
I cannot omit taking notice of the good nature and affability of this ancient monarch, on all occafions. Though he was now in the eightieth year of his age, and fixtieth of his reign, he flill retained a found judgment, and fenfes in tire; and, to me, feemed more fprightly than many of the Princes his fons.
Ihe 3d, Mr. Secretary lange and I dined at the French convent, where we found Signor mezzobarba. I never had an opportunity of feeing that gentleman at our lodgings; as nothing pafTed between him and our ambafTador, but mefTages of common civility and complement.
The 4th, I rode, from our lodgings, through the city, and went out at the north gate, at which we entered on our arrival at pekin.  I proceeded eaflward
to
TO    PEKIN. 47 to the end of the north wall, and then along the eaft chap.x. wall to the fouth gate, at which I entered, and return-ed to our lodgings.   This tour took me up about two hours and an half, at a pretty round trot; and, at the fame rate, I reckon I could have rode quite round the city in lefs than five hours; whence a judgment may be formed of the circumference of the walls. The fuburbs alfo are very extenfive, efpecially to the eaft and fouth, and, being interfperfed with many buying places, all inclofed with brick-walls, and planted with cyprefs and other ever-greens, contribute much to beautify the neighbourhood of this great city. The Chinese are extremely attentive to the fencing and ornamenting thefe groves, or burying places; a natural confequence of their uncommon refpect for their parents and relations while living, and of their extraordinary veneration for them when dead. Annually, on certain days, they refort to thefe groves, carrying provifions along; with them, and celebrate a kind of feaft, in commemoration of their deceafed relations.
I ihall give an example of the filial duty of the ghI-nese, in a (lory I have often heard affirmed for true. A youth, finding his parents reduced to extreme poverty, and knowing of no means for their relief, went
and,
4S A   JO U R N E Y
chap.x. and fold himfelf as a (lave; and, having received th* I721- price from his mafter, immediately brought it to his aged parents. When this was fpent, the boy had no other refource than to run away from his mafter, and fell himfelf again to another; and this he practifed for feveral times, with the fame view, although he knew .the feverity of the law in fuch cafes.
The 6th, while walking through the ftreet, I obferved an old beggar picking vermin from his tattered cloaths, and putting them into his mouth; a practice, which, it feems, is very common among this clafs of people. When a Chinese and tartar are angry at one another, the tartar, in reproach, calls the Chinese loufe-eater; and the latter, in return, calls the other lilh-skin coat; becaufe the mantzur tartars, who live near the river a moor, fubfift by fiihing, and, in fummer, wear coats made of the skins of fifhes. But this habit is ufed only in fummer; for, in winter, they wear furs.
The 7th, the Emperor fent us a prefent of various forts of line fruits, particularly fome excellent oranges. On this occafion, Father fridelly told me, that the tree was ftill (landing at canton, from which the feed was taken that the miifionaries firft fent to Portugal,
where
TO    PEKIN. 49
where it has profpered fo wonderfully; and, from the chap.x. Place whence it was brought, bears the name of the CHiNA-orange. I doubt not, that, with due care, fome others of the rare fruits and plants in this country, even tea itfelf, might be propagated in Europe, or in fome °f the American colonics.
I cannot tell whether the coffee-tree is to be found in china; but am certain that none of its feeds are prepared and drunk there, as among the Persians, Turks, and eup.opeans.
The 8th, the weather was much milder, the wind Southerly, with a fmall mizzling rain, enough to lay trie difagreeable dull.
Next day, fecretary lance and I rode through the ftreets, to the eaftern convent, to vifit our friend fri-orlly. As we paiTed, we obferved a juggler diverting a crowd. On our coming near he played feveral tricks with great dexterity. He took an handful of fmall pence, formerly mentioned, with holes in the middle of them, and laid them on a table. He then thruft them into his noftril, one by one, with his finger; and this he continued to perform, till the whole was exhaufted. After this, he fufpended an iron-chain, of round links, about four feet long. He then took a Vol. II. G moufe
50 A JOURNEY
chap. x. moufe out of a box, and made it dance upon the table, I721* quite loofe. Then the moufe, at his order, went in? at one link of the chain, and out at another, till it afcended to the top; from whence it came down a-gain, the contrary way, without milling fo much as one finglc ring.
The i 2th, the Emperor came from tzan-shu-yang, to his palace in the city.
The i 3 th, the mafter of the ceremonies came to invite the ambafTador to court on the i 5 th, the firft day of the new moon*, and, according to the Chinese computation, the firft day of the new year. This is one of their higheft feftivals; and what added to the fo-lemnity of the prefent, was its being the beginning of a new fcculum, or fpace of fixty years, obferved by the Chinese; bcfides, the Emperor had reigned all the laft feculum, and was now going to enter on the fe-cond. On this occafion were to be aflemblcd feveral tartar princes j particularly, the Kutuchtu and the Tiiih du-Chan, together with many perfons of diftinc-tion from korea, and all the dominions of china. This feaft begins on the firft day, and continues during the increafe of the moon.
The 15th, we went early to court; and found moft
of
TO    PEKIN. 51 of the grandees affembled in the court-yard, fitting on chap.x. their culhions, and a few of them in the great hall. ^J^j We entered the court at the great gates, which are feldom opened, except on fuch extraordinary occafi-°ns.   The Emperor foon came, and feated himfelf upon his throne, which was more magnificent than that at tzan-shu-yang; but, like it, plain and unor-namented.   His Majefty was dreffed in the fame manner as at our firft audience.   We were placed, within the hall, on the right of the throne; and Signior mez-zobarba, with the miftionaries, at no great diftancc from us.   In the mean time, all the people of diftinc-tion, who came from diftant places, made their nine bows, to the ground, without the hall.   And, as there ^as not room in the hall to contain one half of the company, many of them remained in the court during the whole time of the audience.   Our entertainment was almoft the fame as at our firft audience; which, therefore, I fhall not defcribe.
The Emperor was very chcarful, and fent for feveral °f his old acquaintance to fpeak with him. The Tuffi-du-Chan and fome other tartar princes were placed on the left of the throne, with the Emperor's f°ns and grandfons.    In a word, this affembly ex-
q 2 ceeded
A JOURNEY ceeded, in number and quality, any thing of the kind I ever faw. I was in hopes to have feen the Kutuch-tu on this occafion; but was informed that the Emperor, who mows great refpc6t to this venerable pried, detained him in his private apartments.
This palace occupies a large fpace of ground, en-compaffed with an high brick-wall. There are feveral ftreets for fervants and officers of the houfhokl. Many of the houfes are high, and covered with yellow var-nifhed tiles, which appear like gold in the fun. Northward from the palace is a large canal, of an irregular figure, where the imperial family divert themfelves by fifhing. This canal is artificial; and the earth dug out of it has raifed an high bank, from whence you have a full view of the city, and the country adjacent, to a confiderablc diftance. This mount rifes to a rida;e, which is planted with trees; refembling the wild and irregular fcenes of nature that frequently prefent themfelves in this country. The canal and mount are of an equal length, which I compute to be about an English mile. This muft have been a work of vail: ex-pence and labour; and, it muft be confeffed, contributes greatly to the beauty of the place.
The 16th was fpenc in receiving vifits of compliment;
TO    PEKIN. 53 merit, from the miniflers and officers of the court, on chap.x. occafion of the new year. • Z ,
Next day, the vifics were returned by Mr. fecretary lange and glazunoff, in name of the ambaf-fador.
The 18th, fome of the retinue, accompanied with a Chinese friend, went to a great market, held in the fuburbs, about a mile without the city to the fouth-weft. Here we found a number of toys, and things of value, both new and fecond-hand, expofed to fale in the open flreet.
Near this place flood a magnificent temple, the doors of which being open, we walked into it j and faw, landing at the fouth end, a monflrous image, about twenty-five feet high, carved and gilt, having twelve arms and hands, a frightful vifage, and great goggling eyes. By the touch it feemed to be made of a kind of plaifler. This image is called Fo, which fignines God in the Chinese language. Whilft we walked about in the temple, many people entered, who kneeled and bowed feveral times to the image; after which they retired, without taking notice of us, or of any body elfe. In all the lefTer temples, I had formerly feen, I found a great number of images of inferior deities, or reputed
54 A JOURNEY
chap.x. ted faints; but this was occupied by Fo only, without 1721* any rival.
From the temple we went to a publick tea-houfe, where we faw many people drinking tea and fmoking tobacco ; from thence to a tavern, where we dined ; and, in the evening, returned to the city.
Next day, I was prefent at the reprefentation of a kind of farce, in the publick llreet, not far from our lodgings. There were about twenty ftrollers affembled on this occafion, who entertained the crowd with many legerdemain tricks, and unnatural geflures. The ftage was covered with filk-fluff of various colours.
During the feftival there are many fuch ftage-plays performed in all the publick ftreets. You alfo find often high croffes erected, on which are hoifted a number of pendents and dreamers of party-coloured filks, that make a pretty appearance. At this feafon all the fhops are fhut; almoft no bufmefs is done; and the people go about, dreffed in their beft cloaths, as on holidays
in europe.
The 20th, the ambafTador and all the gentlemen of the retinue were invited to dine, at a publick houfe in the city, by a young Chinese gentleman. And all of us accepted the invitation, except the ambafTador. Our
friend
TO   PEKIN. 55 friend was fo polite as to fend chairs for his guefts, about chap. x. ten of the clock; and, at eleven, we reached the houfe, ,J^^, which was the largeft of that fort I ever faw ; and could eafily contain fix or eight hundred people. The roof was fupported by two rows of wooden pillars. This tavern confifted only of one apartment, great part of which was filled with long tables, having benches, °n each fide, for the accommodation of the company. Murine the time of dinner we were entertained with Mufick; and, after it, by a company of players, maintained by the houfe, who daily act plays on a ftage e-re&ed at one fide of the room.   None but people of fafhion come to this place.
When a perfon intends to treat his friends at one °f thefe houfes, he fends previous notice of his defign, with a note of the company, and the fum to be laid °ut on each of them; agreeably to thefe orders, things are executed with the greateft punctuality. The ex-Pence on each of our company could not be lefs than three or four ounces of filver, as we ftaid the whole daY> and had a fplendid entertainment, confiding of many courfes and deferts, prepared and ferved in the bed faihion of the country.   I cannot but obferve, on
this occafion alfo, the order and dexterity with which
the
56 A JOURNEY
chap. x. the fervants performed their parts in fuch a numerous I721- affembly.   I (hall not pretend to give any account of the play; only, that the company fecmed highly plea-fed ; and the performers confifted of both men and women, well dreffed, and of decent behaviour.
At feveral tables the people were employed in gaming; fome playing at cards, others at dice and draughts. I faw no money among them; though I was informed fome of the Chinese play very high. In the evening, we took leave of our hofpitable friend, and returned to our lodgings.
The day following, Father paranim fent us a prefent of a large flurgeon, and fome other frefh fifh, brought from the river amoor. Thefe can only be carried, to fuch a diflancc, in the coldeft feafon; when they are prefervcd frefh, by being kept frozen among the fnow. This method is practifed, with fuccefs, in northern countries; for, provided the fifh is immediately expofed to the froft, after being caught, it may be carried, in fnow, for many miles, almoft as frefh as when taken out of the water.
The 2 2d, I went along with our new Chinese friend, named siasiey, to fee a manufactory of cHiNA-ware, Handing on the bank of the river yu, about twelve English
TO   PEKIN. 'j'} glish miles eaftward of the city.   After arriving at chap.x.
I "7 2 i •
the place, we palled through feveral (hades and houfes,^^^ where I faw a number of people at work.   The ovens, in particular, feemed very curious.   But my view was fo curfory and fuperficial, that I could form no judgment of the materials, or manner of making thefe deanly and beautiful veiTels, which ftill remain unrivalled by the fimilar productions of any other nation. I inquired into the truth of the opinion which the Europeans entertain, " that the clay muft ly a century, " to digeft, before it is fit for ufe;" and was told, by a Rafter workman, that a few months preparation was Efficient.   So far as I could obferve, they made no fe-cret, at this place, of what they were employed about. 1 was, however, told, that, to the fouth, the chinese a*e more cautious, and carefully conceal their art from dangers.   One thing I firmly believe, that, although the Europeans underftood the art of making porcelain, the Chinese would underfell them at every market in the world.   This valuable manufacture is carried °n in moft of the towns in china ; and, as it is fold but a httle above the rate of common ear then-ware in eu-r°pe, the materials of which it is compofed can aetata be rare nor coftly.   This important branch of Vol. II. H im(k
5g A JOURNEY
chap. x. trade brings an immenfe treafqre into the country, and !72i* affords employment to vafl numbers of poor, who, o-therwife, would be ufelefs and burdenfome to the publick.   Befides china, they alfo make a kind of delf, or earthen-ware, for the ufe of the lower clafs of people.
Next day, I happened to meet two gentlemen from the peninfula of korea. Their phyfiognomies were nearly the fame with thofe of the Chinese; but thek drefs different. What furprifed me mo ft was, that they were as ignorant of the fpoken Chinese language as I was, and delivered themfelves by an interpreter. When they have any thing material to communicate they put it in writing, which is eafily underftood by the Chinese. They write in the fame manner as the Chinese, from the top of the page, in ftraight lines, to the bottom, and with a pencil, like thofe commonly ufed by painters.
Korea is a fine country, fubjecr. to china, fituated betwixt the long wall and the river amoor; and runs, out into, a point, towards the ifland of japan, and' the eastern ocean. The country is very plentiful,, and abounds with corn and cattle.
CHAP;
TO    PEKIN. 59
chap. xi.
I72I.
CHAPTER  XI. v^-V^
Occurrences at pekin continued; the feftival held at court on
the new year, &c.
""THE 24th, the mafter of the ceremonies came to invite the ambaffador to the feftival of the new Year, which is always when the moon is at the full, to be held, at the imperial palace of tzanc-shu-yanc, on thc 29th.
In the mean time, the cold continued very piercing; fo that I faw horfes, with loaded carriages, crofs the itches, without the walls of the city, upon the ice.
The 29th, chairs were fent from court to carry *c ambaffador, and gentlemen of the retinue; we arrived there in the evening, and lodged in a houfe near the palace. Near our lodgings was a pretty garden, with a canal, on which was a fmall pleafure-boat. *n the middle of the canal, was raifed an artificial m°tmt, planted with fome barren trees, in imitation °f nature. We afcended, by a winding path, to the t0P of the mount, from whence we had a fine view of a»l the country around.
The 30th, being the firft day of the feftival, we
H 2 went
6o A JOURNEY
chap. xi. went to court. We were met at the gate by the ma* 172 ' fter of the ceremonies, who conducted us to the bot-torn of the flairs of the great hall, where we took our places, in the open court yard, among a numerous affembly of grandees, whom we found fitting crofs-legged on their cufliions. After waiting about a quarter of an hour, his Majefty appeared, and feated himfelf upon the throne; upon which all the company ftoocL The Chinese made their bows, as is ufual on fuch oc-cafions; but we were permitted to make our compliments in our own fafhion. It feemed fomewhat ftrange to a Briton, to fee fome thoufands of people upon their knees, and bowing their heads to the ground, in moft humble pofture, to a mortal like themfelves.
We were immediately brought into the hall; and the ambaffador was conducted to the throne, in order to congratulate his Imperial Majefty on the anniverfary of the new year. Our ftation, on this occafion, as at the firft audience, was to the right of the throne. Alb the princes, the.Emperors fons and grandfons, together with the TuuVduchan, and fome other perfons. of high diftinclion, were placed to the left, oppofite to us. As the cuftoms of the Chinese are, in many in* ft.onccs, quite contrary to-thofe of .the Europeans fo,
I
TO PEKIN* 61 I have been informed, that, among them, the left hand chap. xr. *i the place of greateft honour. After we had drunk ll2l a difh of tea, the Emperor beckoned to the ambaiTador to come to him again; and inquired into the cuffoms ar*d ceremonies, at the courts of Europe, on feili-vals of this nature; adding, at the fame time, " he ' had been informed, that, after drinking the king's
health, on fuch occafions, the Europeans broke the c glafles.   He approved, he faid, of the drinking-part; '■ but did not comprehend the meaning of breaking 5C the glaffcs;" and laughed heartily at the joke.
The great hall was, by this time, almoif. full of company ; and a number of people of diftmerlon ftill regained in the area, who could not find room in the kll.
The entertainment now began to be ferved up. The-, 7i&uals were carried about in great order; and placed, before the company, on large tables.   All the dimes > *ere cold, except thofe fet before his Majefty; who Applied us plentifully with hot. provifions, from the. throne.
Dinner being ended, the fporcs were begun-by a> °ompany of wrefflers, compofed of Chinese and tar-!fcfc&8*   Many of them were almoft naked, having no»
deaths
62 A JOURNEY
chap. xi. cloaths but tight canvafs drawers. They performed l72lt their parts in the area before the hall. When any of them was feverely bruifed by his antagonift, or much hurt by a fall, which frequently happened, the Emperor fent him a cordial, and ordered him to be properly taken care of. Sometimes alfo, when he perceived the combatants too eager and warm, a fign was given to part them. Thefe inftances of humanity were very amiable in the old monarch, and rendered the fight of fuch mocking fpectacles more tolerable; for many of thefe wreftlcrs received fuch blows and falls, as were fufficient to have knocked the breath out of their bodies.
To the wreftling fucceeded many other games, and mock-fights; in which, the performers, armed, fome with lances, others with battle-axes, quarter-ft affs, flails, or cudgels, acted their parts with great dexterity.
Then appeared two troops of tartars, clothed in coats of tiger-skins, armed with bows and arrows, and mounted on hobby-horfes. At firft, they behaved as enemies; but, after fome skirmifhes with their arrows, the parties were reconciled, and began a dance to # difmal tune of vocal and inftrumental mufick. The dance was interrupted by a perfon in a frightful mask, of a tall ftature, dreffed and mounted like the tartars,
who,
TO    PEKIN. 63 who, they faid, reprefented the devil.   After making chap.xi. feveral unfuccefsful attacks, on the united body of the JZ^Al; tartars, this formidable hero was at length killed by an arrow, and carried off in triumph.   During the dance, each tartar had a fmall basket in one hand, and an arrow in the other, wherewith they fcraped on the basket, keeping time to the mufick.   This fcrap-ing founded a little harm to an Italian ear; for I could obferve Signor mezzobarba, and his retinue, Wiling at the performance.
While the t.\rtars performed in the court, one of the Emperor's fons, a Prince of about twenty years of age, danced alone in the hall, and attracted the eyes °f the whole company. His motions were, at firft, very fo that he feemed fcarcely to move at all; but, afterwards, became more brisk and lively. The Emperor Was chearful, and feemed well pleafed with the different Performers; but particularly with an old tartar, who Played on a chime of little bells, with two fhort ivory *°ds. The inftruments of mufick were very various, and all tuned to the chlnese tafte. The Emperor told the ambaiTador, that he knew well their mufick Would not pleafe an European ear; but that every nation liked their own beft.
The
64 A JOURNEY
chap. xi. The dancing being over, there was hoifled up ^a, I72 *• large veffel, refembling a tub, between two polls erected in the area for that purpofe. In the veffel were placed three boys, who performed many dexterous tricks, both in the veffel and on the pofls, too tedious to mention. By this time the fun was fet, and the company were foon after difmiffed for the night.
Next day, the rejoicings were renewed. We did not, however, go to court before the evening; becaufe the fire-works would not begin till the fun was fet. On our arrival, we were conducted through a garden, weflward from the palace, in the middle of which flood a large building, with covered galleries all around. Before the houfe was a canal, having over it a drawbridge. We took our places on the gravel-walk, juft under the gallery, where the Emperor fat with his wives and family. Hard by us was the Kutuchtu, in his tent, having one of his lamas flanding at the door. This priefl never once appeared out of his tent, during the whole fhow. All the grandees and officers of flate were feated on their cufhions, along the bank of the canal. The machinery, for the fire-works, was placed on the other fide of the canal; and nobody was
permit-
TO P E K I N. 65 permitted to go thither, except the people who ma-chap. xi. nagedit. 1721.
About five of the clock a fignal was given, for beginning to play off the fire-works, by a rocket let fly from the gallery where the Emperor fat; and, in the fpace of a few minutes, many thoufand lanterns were lighted. Thefe lanterns were made of paper of different colours, red, blue, green, and yellow; and hung on ports about fix feet high, fcattered over all the garden; which exhibited a very pleafant profpeet to the eye.
Another fignal was then given, for playing off the rockets. They fprung upwards to a prodigious height, and fell down in figures of flars, difplaying a great variety of beautiful colours. The rockets were accompanied v/ith what I fhall call crackers, for want of a more proper name. Their explofion refembled the reports of many great guns, fired at certain intervals, and exhibited a view of many charming colours, and forms of fire. Thefe, with a few lire-works of different kinds, intermixed, continued for the fpace of three hours.
Oppofite to the gallery where the Emperor fat, was ^hfpended a large round veffel, about twenty feet in diameter, between two pofls about thirty feet high*
Vol. II. I A
66 A JOURNEY
chap. xi. A rocket fent from the gallery lighted a match, hang* 17 21 ■ ing from the veffel, which immediately caufed the bot-torn of it to drop down with a loud noife. Then fell out a lettice, or grate-work, all on fire, and hung between the veffel and the ground, burning furioufly, in various colours. This continued for ten minutes, and really exhibited a mod curious fight. It feems, this lettice-work was compofed of materials that immediately kindled, on being expofed to the air; for no perfon was feen aear the machine.
The grate-work being extinguifhed, there appeared a lighted match, hanging from the middle of the veffel, and burning up to it. As foon as the fire reached the veffel, thirty fair paper-lanterns, cf various colours, dropped from it; and hung, in a ftraight line, below one another, between it and the ground ; which im* mediately catchcd fire of themfelves, and formed a beautiful and well-proportioned column of parti-coloured light. After this, fell out about ten or twelve pillars of the fame form, but of a leffer fize; thefe alfo took fire as foon as. they dropped. This fcene continued till the number of one thoufand lanterns fell from the veffel, which diminished, every time, till the
laft
TO PEKIN. 67 laft were very fmall. I muft confefs this prefented a chap. xr. delightful object, to the fpectators. \^ry^\j
I could not help being furprized at the ingenuity of the artift, in crowding fuch a number of lanterns into fo fmall and fimple a machine as this feemed to be; and, at the fame time, with fo much order, that all of them dropped and kindled of themfelves, with equal regularity, as if he had let them fall from his hand; for not even one of them was extinguiihed by accident, or in the leaft entangled by another. This concluded the firft day's entertainment.
The 31ft, in the evening, we returned to court; where was opened a new fcene of fire-works, which continued, with great variety, till ten o'clock at night.
The 1 ft of February, we went again to court; where the fire-works were refumed in many different, well-executed, defigns. What pleafed me moft, was a fmall mount, raifed in the middle of the garden, from which fprung a ftream of white and blue fire, in imitation of water. The top of the mount contained a cavity, in fhape of a large urn, from which the fire rofe to a prodigious height.
Oppofite to the gallery, where the Emperor fat, ^vere erected three large frames, about thirty feet high
I 2 each.
6& A JOURNEY
chap, xl each.. On one was a monftrous figure of a dragon 5 172 1 • on the fecond, a man on horfeback; and the third re-prefented an elephant, with a human figure on his back. All thefe were compofed of a deep blue fire;, and were interwoven with vines and grapes, hangings about on all fides, of white, red, and blue fire.
Befides thefe, there were exhibited, on this occafion, many other ingenious defigns of fire-works; which far furpalTed any thing of the kind, I ever faw, though I have been prefent at performances of this nature, exhibited, at st. Petersburg, by the bed artiffs in Europe. Befides the art difplayed in the contrivance and figure, thefe works furnifhed, in particular, a wonderful variety of moil: beautiful colours, far exceeding my ability, to defcribe. I muft confefs, they far out-did my expectations, and even common fame, which feldom lef-fens things of this nature.
The following day, the Emperor gave the ambafTador a private audience, and inquired how he liked the diverfions and fire-works. On. this occafion, the Emperor repeated what has been already obferved concerning the antiquity of illuminations compofed cf gun-powder; and added, that, although fire-works had been known in. chin a for more than two thoufand
years,
TO    PEKIN. 6>
years, he himfelf had made many improvements upon chap xi.. them, and brought them to their prefent perfection. lJ^1-
The 3d, we returned to the city, in a cold frofty day, and the wind at north-weft. We found the rejoicings ftill going on at p e k 1 n ; for ftages were erected, and plays reprefented, in all the principal (fleets through which we paflfed.
The affairs relating to the embafly being nearly fi-nifhed, we began now to prepare for our journey to the weft ward; which was to take place as foon as the extremity of the cold was abated.
The 9th, three miffionaries, paranim, demail, and moran, came to pay their refpecls to the ambaffador^ and beg the favour of him, that Signior nicolai, one of their fociety, might be permitted to accompany him-in his journey to Europe ; which was granted, provided it was agreeable to the Emperor. The reafon- of this requeft was fuppofed to be, that, Signior mezzo-barba having returned to rome, without accomplishing the ends of his embaffy ; the Emperor, who fa-r voured the caufe of the jesuits, had concerted with them, to fend nicolai to the court of rome, in orde* to reprefent the ftate of this affair, before mezzob are a could arrive,
Next ■
7o A JOURNEY
chap. xi.   Nexc day, the Emperor fent three officers with pre-^J^^fents to his Czarifli Majefty; the chief of which were, tapiftry for two rooms, neatly wrought on a rich filk-ftufT; a fet of fmall enamelled gold cups; fome japanned cups, fet with mother of pearl; three flower-pieces, curioufly embroidered on tafFety; two chefts of rockets, prepared in the Chinese fafhion; about twenty or thirty pieces of filk, in moft of which was interwoven the dragon with five claws; a parcel of different forts of curious fans for ladies; alfo, a box containing fome rolls of white Chinese paper, the fheets of which were of a fize much larger than common; befides feveral other toys, fcarce worth mentioning. From thefe particulars it appears, that thefe two mighty monarchs were not very lavifh in their prefents to each other; preferring curiofities to things of real value.
The 1rch, feveral officers came, from court, with prefents to the ambaffador, and every perfon of the retinue, correfponding to their different ftations and characters; and, fo minutely and exactly was this matter managed, that even the meaneft of our fervants was not neglected. The prefents, confifting of a complete Chinese drefs, fome pieces of damasks, and other fluffs, were, indeed, of no great value.   They were,
how-
TO    PEKIN. 71 however, carried along the ftreets, wrapped up in yel- chap. xi. low filk, with the ufual parade of things belonging to ^l^J^j the court; a circumftance which is reckoned one of the greateft honours that can be conferred on a foreign minifter.
Next day, the Emperor fent to ask the ambaffador, whether he inclined to accompany him to a hunting-match, in a foreft not far diflant from pekin ; to which his excellency readily agreed.
The 1 3th, I dined with one of my Chinese friends, called fangfung. In going thither, I met, in the ftreet, two men riding upon afles, with their fervants leading them by the bridle. I foon perceived they were kawlees; which is the name given, by the Chinese and tartars, to the people of Korea ; whom I have mentioned above.
The 14th, the weather v/as very fine and warm.
The 15th, we went to a fair in the fuburbs, which is held the firft day of every new moon, where we found many things cxpofed to fale, not commonly found in mops.
The 16th, the weather being favourable, I took a ride round the walls of the city; which I performed, it an eafy trot, in.the fpace of four hours: whereby
the
72 A TOURNEY
chap. xi. the compafs of pekin may be nearly computed. The I721* fuburbs, efpecially to the eaft and fouth, are very ex-tenfive; and, in many places of them, the buildings are equal to thofe within the walls.
The 17th, being now on the point of our departure, in order xo make the moll: of the fhort time we had to flay, I rode about twelve miles eaftward from pekin, accompanied with a Chinese friend, to the banks of the river; which I found crowded with a number of barques, of different fizes, which are conflantly -employed in carrying provifions, and other flores, to the city, from diftant parts of the country. I faw many veffels failing down the flream, towards the fouth-eafl. And I was informed, there are nine thoufand nine hundred and ninty nine veffels conflantly employed on this river; but why confined to fuch an odd number I could neither learn, nor comprehend. During a month, or fix weeks, in winter, this river is frozen over; at which feafon, provifions are conveyed by land-carriage, or along the ice.
On this occafion alfo I rcvifited the chin a-manufactory, in order to try whether I could learn any thing of that curious art. But, though the people were ve-jry complaifant, and fhowed me every thing I defired
them,
TO   PEKIN. 73 them, I returned as ignorant as I went thither; and, chap. xi. I am perfuaded, that, before a perfon can get any know-  17 21 • ledge of the affair, he muft be bred a potter, and have time to infpect. its whole progrefs; of which thefe people feem to make no fecret.
The fields, along the banks of the river, are well cultivated; producing fine wheat, and other forts of grain. I faw alfo great plantations of tobacco, which they call tharr, and which yields very confiderable profits; as it is univerfally ufed in fmoking, by perfons of all ranks, of both fexes, in china; and, befides, great quantities are fent to the mongalls, who prefer the chinese manner of preparing it before every other. They make it into a grofs powder, like faw duft, which they keep in a fmall bag, and fill their little brafs-pipes out of it, without touching the tobacco with their fingers. The fmoke is very mild, and has quite a different fmell from ours. It is reported the Chinese have had the ufe of tobacco for many ages.
I obferved, that, in cold weather, the Chinese chewed a kind of nut, about the bignefs of a nutmeg, which they called beetle; it is of an aftringent quality. They fay, it both keeps them warm and cleans their teeth. Next day was fpent in preparing for our journey. Vol. II. K On
« A JOURNEY
chap. xi. On the 18th, all our gentlemen dined with my chi-l721' nese friend, named siasiey, where we met with a friendly reception, and a fumptuous feaft. After dinner, our hofpitable landlord put about his cups very freely. At laft, he took me by the hand, and defired I would let the ambaffador return and remain with him; and he would give me my choice of which of his wives or daughters I liked beft. I could not but return my friend hearty thanks for his obliging offer; which, however, I thought it not proper to accept.
Next day, I went to fee the market where provifions were fold. It was a fpacious oblong, fpread with gravel, very neat and clean. The butchers had their fhops in a fhade, running quite round the place. I faw little beef, but a great deal of mutton. In the middle, was great ftore of poultry, wild-fowl, and venifon; but, what furprifed me not a little, was, to find about a dozen of dead badgers expofed to fale. The Chinese, it feems, are very fond of thefe animals; which are accounted unclean in other parts of the world. All the Chinese merchants have the art of expofing their goods to fale dreffed up in the moft advantageous manner; and, even in purchafing any trifling thing, whatever the cafe be
that
TO PEKIN. 7£ that holds it, it is half the coft, and often exceeds it in chap.xi. value. 1721.
The 2 1 ft, being the day appointed for hunting with the Emperor, at one of the clock in the morning, hor-fes were brought to our lodgings, for the ambaiTador and thofe who attended him. We immediately mounted, and, after riding about fix miles, to the fouth-weft of the city, at break of day, we reached the gates of the park called chayza; where we were received by an officer, and conducted, through the foreft, to a fum-mer-houfe, about a mile from the gate, in which the Emperor had ilept the preceding night.   This was a fmall but neat building, having a double row of galleries, open to the foreft, on all fides, and an avenue leading to it from the gate, planted with feveral rows of trees.   At fome diftance from the houfe, we dismounted, and were met by the mafter of the ceremonies, who conducted us into a gallery.   As foon as we entered, the good old Emperor, who had rifen long before our arrival, fent one of his eunuchs to falute the ambafTador, and ordered us tea and other victuals. On the fouth fide of the houfe is a canal, filled with clear water, and feveral large fifh-ponds, which make a great addition to the beauties of this charming place.
K 2 At
76 A JOURNEY
chap. xi. At a convenient diftance from the houfe, flood about 1721, a thoufand tents, where the courtiers and grandees had lodged the night before. Breakfaft being over, the Emperor, who was very fond of arms, fent to defire a fight of the ambaffador's fowling-piece. He returned it, with feveral of his own to be fhown us. They had all match-locks. The Chinese are pollened with a notion, that flints, in their climate, acquire a moidure which hinders their firing. But, as far as I could perceive, the air had little effect upon our flints.
A fignal was then given that the Emperor was coming; upon which all the great men drew up in lines, from the bottom of the flairs to the road leading to the foreft, all on foot, dreffed in their hunting habits, the fame with thofe ufed by the officers and cavalry of the army, when in the field, and armed with bows and arrows. We had a proper place affigned us, and made our bows to his Majefty, who returned a gracious fmile, with figns to follow him. He was feated, crofs-legged, in an open machine, carried by four men, with long poles reded on their fhoulders. Before him lay a fowling-piece, a bow, and fheaf of arrows. This has been his hunting equipage for fome years, fince he left off riding; but, in his youth, he went ufual-.
TO    PEKIN. 77 ly, every fummer, feveral days-journey without the chap. xi. Ions: wall, and carried along with him all the Princes !721* his fons, and many perfons of diftinction, to the number frequently of fome thoufands, in order to hunt in the woods and deferts; where he continued for the fpace of two or three months.   Their provifions were reftricT:ed to bare neceflaries, and often to what; they caught in the woods of tartary.   This piece of policy he practifed chiefly with a view to harden the officers of his army, and prevent their falling into idle-nefs and effeminacy among the Chinese; and, at the fame time, to fet a good example of the aufterities he recommended, by living on the fame hard fare he preformed to others.
As foon as the Emperor had pafTed, the company mounted and followed him, at fome diftance, till we came into the open foreft, where all formed into a femicircle, in the centre of which was the Emperor, having on his left hand about eight or ten of his fons and grandfons, and the ambafTador on his right, about fifty paces diftant; clofe by him, were the mafter of the chace, with fome grey-hounds, and the grand falconer with his hawks. I could not but admire the beauty of thefe fine birds.   Many of them were as
white
7$ A JOURNEY
chap.xi. white as doves; having one or two black feathers in I721, their wings or tails. They are brought from Siberia, or places to the north of the river a moor.
Our wings being extended, there were many hares ftarted, which the company endeavoured to drive towards the Emperor, who killed many of them with arrows as they palled; thofe he miffed, he made a fign to fome of the Princes to purfue, who alfo killed feveral of them with arrows; but no other perfon was permitted to draw a bow, or llir from the line. The fame rules of hunting, I formerly obferved, are practifed by the moncalls.
From the open field, we continued our route well-ward, to a place among thickets and tall reeds, where we fprung a number of pheafants, partridges, and quails. His Majefty then laid aflde his bow and arrows, and carried a hawk on his hand; which he flew as occafion offered. The hawks generally raked in the pheafants while flying; but, if they took the reeds or bufhes, they foon caught them.
After proceeding about two or three miles farther into the foreft, we came to a tall wood, where we found feveral forts of deer. The young men went in and .beat the woods, whilft the reft of the company remained
TO    PEKIN. 79 cd without.   We faw much game pafs us; but nobo- chap.xl dy drew a bow, till the Emperor had killed a flag, l721' which he did very dexceroufly, with a broad-headed arrow; after which the Princes had leave to kill feveral bucks; among which was one of that fpecies, that bears the musk, called kaberda in Siberia, of which I have formerly given a defcription.   The Chinese musk is ftronger, and therefore preferable to that from northern parts.
We had now been fix hours on horfe-back, and, I reckon, had travelled about fifteen English miles; but no end of the foreft yet appeared. We turned fhort from this wood fouth wards, till, coming to fome marines, overgrown with tall reeds, we roufed a great many wild boars; but, as it was not the feafon for killing them, they all efcaped. The hunting thefe fierce animals is reckoned the moft dangerous of all kinds of fport, except the chace of lions and tigers. Every one endeavoured to avoid them, and feveral of them run furioufly through the thickeft troops of horfe. The Emperor was fo cautious as to have a company of men, armed with lances, to guard his machine.
We continued the fport till about four o'clock, when we came to a high artificial mount, of a fquare
figure,
8o A JOURNEY
chap. xi. figure, raifed in the middle of a plain, on the top of I721, which were pitched about ten or twelve tents, for the imperial family. This mount had feveral winding paths leading to the top, planted, on each fide, with lows of trees, in imitation of nature. To the fouth was a large bafon of water, with a boat upon it; from whence, I fuppofe, the earth has been taken that formed this mount. At fome diffance from the mount, tents were erected for the people of difhnction, and officers of the court. About two hundred yards from it, we were lodged in fome clean huts, covered with reeds. The Emperor, from his fituation, had a view of all the tents, and a great way farther into the foreft. The whole fcene made a very pretty appearance.
As foon as we alighted, the mafter of the ceremonies was fent, by the Emperor, to ask the ambaffador how he liked their manner of hunting. He made a fuitable return, acknowledging, at the fame time, the great honour done him on this occafion.
The Emperor then fent us great plenty of dreffed provifions of all kinds; and the officer, who brought them, pointed out feveral difhes, which his Majefty fent from his own table, confifting of mutton, venifon, pheafants, and other forts of wild fowl.
After
TO    P E K I N. 81
After dinner, the Emperor fent two of his chief eu- chap. xr. nuchs to compliment the ambaffador ; and inform I721' him, that he intended to entertain him with the baiting of three tigers, which had been kept fome time, cooped up in a ftrong grate-work, for that purpofe. The hill, where the Emperor's tent flood, was fur-rounded with feveral ranks of guards, armed with long \pears. A guard, alfo, was placed before the ambaffador's, and the reft of the tents, to fecure the whole encampment from the fury of thefe fierce animals. The firfl was let out by a perfon mounted on a fleet horfe, who opened the door of the coop by means of a rope tied to it. The tiger immediately left his cage, and feemed much pleafed to find himfelf at liberty. The horfeman rode off at full fpeed; while
*
the tiger was rolling himfelf upon the grafs. At laft he rofe, and growled, and walked about. The Emperor fired twice at him with bullets; but, the diftance being confiderable, miffed him, though the pieces were well pointed. Upon which his Majefty fent to the ambaffador, to try his piece upon him; which being charged with a fingle ball, he walked towards the animal, accompanied by ten men, armed with fpears, in Vol. II. L cafe
82 A JOURNEY
chap.xl cafe of accidents; till, being at a convenient diftancev
^JJT^^lie took his aim, and killed him on the fpot.
The fecond was let out in the fame manner. The horfeman, retiring a little, left the creature rolling upon the grafs, like the firft. He then returned, and fhot at him with a blunted arrow; which roufed the animal to fuch a pitch, and made him purfue fo clofely, that the horfeman narrowly efcaped within the ranks, where the furious tiger, endeavouring to leap over the men's heads, was killed at the foot of the mount.
The third, as foon as he was fet at liberty, run directly towards the Emperor's tent; and was, in like manner, killed with the fpears.   A man mull be well mounted and armed, who hunts this kind of animals in the woods; where they muft be much ftronger and fwifter than thefe we faw, which had been confined for many months,and whofe limbs, by want of exercife,were become ftiff and unwieldy; but, notwithftanding this disadvantage, the courage and nimblenefs even of thefe animals was very furprifing.   I have feen four forts of chem, the tiger, panther, leopard, and lynx, which are all very fierce; but the firft is the largeft and ftrongefh The Emperor, in his youth, was very fond of hunt-mg thefe creatures in the woods of tartary- but,
TO    (HI N. 8^ now, he confines himfelf within the limits of the fo- chap. xi. reft, where there is game fufficient to gratify any I721-fportfman.
The killing of the tigers finifhed the diverfion of the day; after which we retired to our huts, where we were entertained with a plentiful fupper, fent us by the Emperor. After fupper, an officer was fent from his Majefty to the ambafTador, who brought the tigers skin he had fhot; telling him, that, by the laws of hunting, he had a right to it.
Next morning, the fport was refumed, and varied little from that of the preceding day. About three o'clock, afternoon, we came to another fummer-houfe in the middle of the foreft, where the Emperor lodged •the following night; while we lay in a fmall neat temple in the neighbourhood; and were entertained, by his Majefty, in the fame manner as before.
The 23 d, about eight of the clock in the mornings the mafter of tire ceremonies waited on the ambafTador, in order to conduct him into his Majefty's pre-fence, to receive his audience of leave. The Emperor received him, in a moft friendly manner, in his bedchamber. He repeated his afTurances of the great friendship he entertained for his Czarifh Majefty; and
L 2 cxpref-
S4 A JOURNEY
chap. xi. exprefTed great refpect for the perfonal merit of the ^7^^ ambafTador.   After which the ambafiador took leave ;. and we returned to our lodgings in the city.
I fhall only obferve further, that this foreft is really a moft delightful place; is well ftored with variety of game; and b of great extent, as will eafily be conceived from the account I have given of our two clays hunting. It is all inclofed with a high wall of brick. The value of this park, fo near the capital, fhows the magnificence of this powerful monarch.
The 24th, the ambafTador was invited, by the prefident of the college of mathematicks, to fee the ob-fcrvatory; which is. fituated immediately within the eaft wall, and commands an extenfive profpeel:. The building is not magnificent; but is furnifhed with a fine armillary, fphere, globes, telefcopes, an orrery in pood order, and other mathematical inftruments of the heft .European workmanfhip. This college was erected by the prefent Emperor, who fpares^ no coft to bring it to-perfection ; and the meaneft of his fubjecls, who difcover a genius for fcience, or any ufeful art, are iure to meet with due encouragement.
The Chinese are indebted to the prefent Emperor for what progrefs they have made in aftronomy. He
chiefly
TO    PEKIN. g£
chiefly promoted this ftudy by countenancing the je- chap.xi. suits and other miffionaries; for I have been inform- I721, ed, that, before their arrival in this country, the inhabitants could fearccly calculate an eclipfe. The Chinese, it is indeed pretended, under flood aftronomy previous to that period; but the knowledge of it was-in a great meafure loft, during the many fatal revolutions of the empire.
From the obfervatory we afcended, by a broad ri-< fing paiTage, to the top of the city-wall ; where we faw about fifteen horfemen riding their rounds; which, we were told, they performed day and night, at flared times. The wall is built of brick, and is abouc twenty-five or thirty feet high; having embrafures, and fquare towers, at equal diflances; and a wide deep ditch, which may be filled with water at pleafure. On the top of the wall there is a pleafant walk, broad enough for fifteen horfemen to ride a-breaft. I fup* pofe the whole is, perhaps, not compofed of folid bricks, but the middle filled up with earth and rubbifh.
The 25th, we went to all the three convents, and took leave of our friends the miffionaries.
The 26th, the ambaiTador went to the tribunal fci foreign affairs, and received a letter from the Emperor
to
86 A JOURNEY
chap.xi. to his Czarifh Majefty. On this occafion the prefi-^7^^dene acquainted his excellency, that he muft confider this letter as a lingular mark of favour to his mafter, as their Emperors were not in ufe to write letters of compliment to any prince; or, indeed, to write letters of any kind, except thofe which contained their orders to their fubjecls; and, that the Emperor difpenfed with fo material a cuftom, only, to teftify his refpect for his Czarifti Majefty.
The original of this letter was in the Chinese language, and a copy of it in the mongalian. It was folded up in a long roll, according to the cuftom in china, and wrapped in a piece of yellow filk, which was tied to a man's arm, and carried, in procefiion, before the ambalTador. All perfons on horfeback, whom we met, difmounted, and flood till we had pafTed them. Such veneration do thefe people pay to every thing belonging to the Emperor.
The fame day, the ambafTador had a vifit from a young gentleman, a defcendent of the famous Chinese philofopher confucius; whofe memory and works are greatly refpecled in china. From what I could learn of this eminent philofopher, he appears to have been a perfon of extraordinary parts, extenfive
know-
TO    PEKIN. 87 knowledge, and examplary virtue.    On account of chap.xii. fuch rare qualities, his family is flill honoured and e- 172lm iteemed even by the Emperor himfelf.
CHAPTER XII.
Some account of the prefent Emperor of china, the Chinese
"wall, fee.
gEFORE we leave china, I fhall make a few general remarks, on the people and country, drawn from the bell information I could procure ; and fhall begin with the long wall.
The long, or endlefs wall, as it is commonly called, encompafTes all the north and weft parts of china. It was built, about fix hundred years ago, by one of the Emperors, to prevent the frequent incurfions of the mongalls, and other weftern tartars, who made a practice of aflembling numerous troops of horfe, and invading the country in different places. The Chinese frontiers were too extenfive to be guarded againft fuch bold and numerous enemies; who, after plundering and deftroying a wealthy country, returned to theix" own, loaded with fpoils.
The. Chinese finding all precautions ineffectual to
,88 A JOURNEY
chap.xii. put a flop to the inroads of fuch barbarians, at laft 1721. rcf*0lvecl to build this famous wall. It begins in the province of leotong, at the bottom of the bay of nankin; and proceeds a-crofs rivers, and over the tops of the higheft mountains, without interruption, keeping nearly along the circular ridge of barren rocks that furround the country to the north and weft; and, after running fouthwards about twelve hundred English miles, ends in impaffable mountains and fandy defer ts.
The foundation confifts of large blocks of fquare ftones laid in mortar; but the reft of the wall is built of brick.   The whole is fo ftrong, and well built, as to need almoft no repair; and, in fuch a dry climate, may remain in this condition for many ages. It's heighth and breadth are not equal in every place; nor, indeed, is it neceflary they fhould.  When carried over fteep rocks, where no horfe can pafs, it is about fifteen or twenty feet high, and broad in proportion; but, when running through a valley, or crofting a river, there you fee a ftrong wall, about thirty feet high, with fquare towers, at the diftance of a bow-fhot from one another, and embrafures at equal diftances.   The top of the wall is fiat, and paved with broad free-Hone;
and
TO PEKIN. 89 and where it rifes over a rock, or any eminence, you chap, xn, afcend by a fine eafy ftone-ftair. 1721.
The bridges, over rivers and torrents, are exceeding-ly neat, being both well contrived and executed. They have two flories of arches, one above another, to afford fufficient paffage for the waters on fudden rains and floods.
This wall was begun and completely fmifhed in the fpace of five years; every fixth man in china being obliged to work himfelf, or find another in his ftead. It is reported, the labourers flood fo clofe, for many miles diflance, as to hand the materials from one to another. This I am the more inclined to believe, as the rugged rocks would prevent all ufe of carriages; nor could clay, for making bricks or cement, of any kind, be found among them.
The building of this wall, however, was not the only burden the Chinese fupported, on this occafion. They were alfo obliged to keep a numerous army in the field, to guard the paffes of the mountains, and fecure the labourers from being interrupted by their watchful enemies the tartars, who, all the while, were not idle fpectators.
I am of opinion, that no nation in the world was
Vol. II. M able
90 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. able for fuch an undertaking, except the Chinese. For, I721, though fome other kingdom might have furnifhed a fufticient number of workmen, for fuch an enterprife, none but the ingenious, fober, and parfimonious Chinese could have preferved order amidfl fuch multitudes, or patiently fubmitted to the hardihips attending fuch a labour. This furprifing piece of work, if not the greater!, may juftly be reckoned among the wonders of the world. And the Emperor, who planned and completed it, deferves fame, as much fuperior to his who built the famous Egyptian pyramids, as a performance of real ufe excclls a work of vanity.
Befides the main wall, there are feveral femicircular walls, which have the long wall for their diameter, at the places leaft fortified by nature, and at die open paffes of the mountains. Thefe are ftrongly built, of the fame materials and architecture with the long wall, and are of confiderable extent, fometimes on one fide of the main wall, and fometimes on the other. In thefe walls are ftrong gates, conflantly defended by a numerous guard. They are intended to prevent a fur-prife, and flop fudden irruptions of the enemy. Even thefe leffer bulwarks feem works of great expence and labour; but nothing in comparifon with the long wall.
After
T O P E K I N. After the Chinese had finiihed their wall, they had chap. xir. refpite for a confiderable time, from the invafions of I721, their enemies, reaping the fruits of their labour in peace and quietnefs. However, about five hundred years ago, the weftern tartars found means to get through the wall, and, with a powerful army of horfe, entered the country, carrying terror along with them wherever they went. They, at laft, became mafters of the greateft part of china, and kept pofTefTion of it for many years, till the Chinese, exafperated by their tyranny, took advantage of their negligence, and drove them back, with difgrace, to their ancient habitations in the deferts. The Chinese now began to re-eftablifti their former government, to rectify diforders, and repair defolations made by the tartars. From this time they enjoyed long peace, till the fatal year one thoufand fix hundred and forty, when the mantzur tartars conquered the whole empire of china; which conqueft they retain to this day; and, by their prudent management and mild government, feem in a fair way to keep it.
I fiiall briefly relate in what manner this ftrange revolution was brought about, by fo fmall a nation as the mantzurs; a people whom the Chinese defpifed, and
M 2 who
92 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. who bear no greater proportion to the Chinese than 172It the inhabitants of wales to the refl of great bri-
L/Y\i
tain.
It happened, during a time of profound peace, that a certain prince of mantzur, going to fetch his bride, from a place bordering on the province of leotong, was, without provocation, attacked by a party of Chinese, and flain, with moft of his attendants; againft all laws of juftice and good neighbourhood.
The tartars, though highly exafperated, behaved with uncommon moderation on this occafion. Before proceeding to make reprifals, or taking any ftep whatever with that view, they fent ambafTadors, to the court of pekin, demanding fatisfaclion for the outrage com-mitted upon one of their princes. Their complaints were neglected, and the matter, under various pretences, delayed, from time to time, till the tartars, lof-ing all patience, and pofitively infilling on an anfwer to their demands, were affronted, and contcmptuoully difmiffed by the Chinese miniftry, to whom the Emperor had referred them. This treatment highly enraged the whole race of the tartars; who immediately vowed revenge; and, having got an army together, entered
T O    P E K I N. tered the province of leotong, which lies without the chap. xir. wall, wafting all with fire and fword. 17 21 •
Befides this war with the tartars, feveral other circumftances concurred to brin^ about a revolution in the empire; for, at the fame time, there happened a great infurrection in china, which, at laft, became general. The rebels were commanded by one named li; who, after having defeated the imperial army fent to oppofe him, inverted and took pekin itfelf. And the Emperor, rather than fall into the hands of his furious fubjects, firft hanged his daughter, and then himfelf, on a tree in his own garden.
The Emperor's general, usangue, ftill kept the field with the fmall remains of his troops; but altogether unable to refift the powerful army of the rebels. He therefore retired northwards; and, all hopes of fuccefs being loft, came to a refolution of calling in the tartars to his affiftance. He promifed them many rewards, and, particularly, the province of leo-tong; if, by their aid, he fucceeded in forcing the rebels to obedience. Kum-ti, the tartar chief, readily hearkened to the propofal, and the terms were foon fettled between the parties.
In confequence of this agreement, the new allies
joined
94 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. joined armies, which were both commanded by the l72lt tartar, and advanced towards the long wall. But, before they reached the gate, kum-ti, the tartar Prince, died, and left his fon xungsti, a child of fe-ven years of age, for his fucceflbr. This accident did not retard the progrefs of the expedition; for this child was left to the guardianhhip of his uncle; a man of great abilities and addrefs, and perfectly qualified to conduct the important project then on foot.
Immediately after the death of kum-ti, the young Prince was proclaimed King of the mantzurs, and commander in chief of the combined army of tartars and Chinese. In order to magnify the number of tartars in the army, and confequently render themfelves more formidable to the rebels, they luckily fell upon a flratagem; which was, to drefs all the Chinese foldiers in tartar habits. And, at entering the wall, the real tartars, in the army, did not exceed eight thoufand men; though, indeed, they were followed by ftrong reinforcements.
When they arrived at the wall, the Chinese, who kept guard, feeing a child at the head of fuch an army, which they imagined to confift wholly of tartars, were fo furprifed, that they immediately opened the
gates,
TO    PEKIN. 25 gates, without the leaft refinance, crying out, long live chap.xii. the Emperor.   This circumftance, added to the re- J72I# ports of fo formidable an army of tartars, increafing daily by reinforcements, ftruck fuch terror into the rebels, that many of them forfook their leader. The tartars ftill advanced, and had daily skirmifhes and feveral battles with the rebels, in which the latter were defeated.   In the mean time, the guardian took care to leave garrifons in all the towns through which they pafTed, with Ariel orders, to ufe the inhabitants with the greateit humanity.   Such mild behaviour gained the affection of the nation in general.   And thus he proceeded, from one province to another, till the whole empire fubmitted to his jurifdiction.
The war, which had laded fome years, being now at an end, and peace re-eflablifhed, the Chinese thanked the tartars for their good fervices, and defired they would return to their own country. But the tartar chief, on various pretences, delayed his departure, till fuch time as he found his party fufficicntly ftrong to fix his nephew, xungsti, on the imperial throne of
china.
Xungsti died a young man, and left his fecond fon, kamh i, to fuccced him.   On finding himfelf at the
point
5>6 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. point of death, he called for his eldeft fon, and asked 172It him, whether he would take upon him the government? but, being young and modeft, he was unwilling to accept, and begged his father would excufe him on that account. Then kamhi was called, and asked the fame queftion. He was better inftrudted, and briskly anfwered, he was ready to obey his father's commands, and would take the weight of the government upon him. This anfwer fo pleafed the Emperor, that he named him his fuccefTor; and, accordingly, on the death of his father, he was proclaimed Emperor; and his behaviour has fhown him altogether worthy of that honour. It is, it feems, agreeable to the laws and cuftoms of china, that the Emperor chufe, for his fuccefTor, which of his fons he pleafcs without regard to primogeniture.
Although the Emperor's name is kamhi, the weft-ern tartars call him bochdoy-chan, fignifying chief governor; but the Chinese, in talking of him, fay van-suy, which fignifics, many times ten thoufand years; meaning, let the Emperor live fo long. This is a high title in the oriental phrafe. His fons are called yAN, fignifying ten thoufand years; and are diftin-
guifhed
TO PEKIN. ov guifhed by the names of van the firft, van the fe-CHAP.xn. cond, &c. according to their age. 1721.
Kamhi, the prefent Emperor, has about twenty fons, and, it is faid, he intends the fourteenth for his fuc-ceftbr. He is a prince eminent for prudence and valour ; and had, at this time, the command of an army againft the Kalmucks.
Kamhi hath yet the remains of a graceful perfon. His countenance is open, his difpofition generous, and he gives great application to buflnefs; qualities abfolutely ncccifury to manage the great affairs v/ith which he is in milled. His reign has been long and profperous, though fometimes difturbed by dangerous infurrections, and open rebellions; but his good fortune, and prudent conduct, overcoming all difficulties, reftored publick tranquillity, and he has now, for a confiderable time, enjoyed perfect peace and happinefs. Although the government of china is abfolute, it requires no fmall fa-gacity and skill to rile an empire of fuch extenfive dominions, and containing fo numerous fubjects.
After kamhi had fettled his affairs at home, the firft ftep he took was to gain the weftern or mongall tartars to his fricndftiip. The Chinese had no e-nemies fo formidable.   The Emperor knew their va-
Vol. II. N lour
A JOURNEY
. lour, and had employed many of them in his army, who did him fignal fervices on many occafions. To effect: this, he began to form alliances with their princes and chiefs, by inter-marriages between their families and his, where thefe could take place; others he allured by rich prefents; fo that they are, at prefent, little better than his fubjects. And, by this mafter-piece of politicks, he fucceeded more effectually than if he had employed the whole force of china. The friendfhip of the weftern tartars is of great importance to the Emperor; for they not only fupply pekin, with provifions, the produce of their flocks; but, upoa any emergency, can bring to his affiftance fifty thou-fond horfe, on a fhort warning.
It may eafily be imagined, that great armies and ftrict difcipline are neceffary to guard fo extendve territories, and keep fuch a numerous people to their duty. The number of foldiers, reported to be in the empire, is prodigious, and almoft incredible. I am well informed that the fingle province and city of pekin contain no lefs than one hundred and twenty thoufand effective men, all well paid, cloathed, and armed.
Notwithitanding the vaft revenues which are neceffary for the fupport of the government, the duties on
inland,
TO   PEKIN. 99 inland trade muft be very eafy; for I was told by acHAP.xii. merchant, that he could live in the capital, and trade 1721# in what branches of bufinefs he pleafed, for paying only one ounce of filver annually to the Emperor. Such eafy taxes fhow the great oeconomy and moderation of kamhi, whofe reign is called the reign of great peace and reft; in Chinese 7~ay-ping.
The tartars call china kitay, and the people ki-taytzi; but the Chinese call themfelves chum-qjjoti-gen, that is, the people of the middle region.
The empire of china is, in a manner, feparated from all the reft of the world; fituated in a fine and healthy climate, furrounded by the ocean to the eaft and fouth; by a chain of high rocks and barren mountains on the north and weft, along which runs the famous wall as an additional defence. But what, in my "opinion, is a greater fecurity to the empire againft invaders, than any thing yet mentioned, is the barren defert, ftretching for feveral hundred miles weftward, where none but tartars can fubfift, and which fcarce any regular army can pafs. The feas, to the fouth and eaft, are, indeed, open; and china might be attacked on that fide; but, I am perfuaded, no prince will think it proper to difturb his own repofe, and that
N 2 of
loo A JOURNEY
chap.xn. of fuch a powerful people, inclined to peace with al£ 1721. tjiejr nejo;jabours. an(i fatisfied, as theyfeem, with their: own dominions.
- I'.know but one nation who could attempt the con-* queft of china, with any probability of fuccefs, and> that is russia; but the territories of that empire arc fo extenfive, in this quarter of the world, as to exceed even the bounds of ambition itfelf; and the Russians feem to entertain no defire of extending them farther.
What part of china I faw is moftly plain, inter-iperfed with hills and riling grounds. The whole is pleafant and well cultivated, producing wheat and o-ther grain, together with abundance of cattle and: poultry.
Befides the necefTaries, the Chinese have alfo many, of the fuperfluities of life ; particularly, fine fruits, of1 various kinds, too tedious to mention. They have likewife mines of gold, filver, copper, lead, and iron. They fet a greater value on filver, in proportion to -Told, than the Europeans do; fo that gold is exported; to o-ood advantage.-
In cmna are many navigable rivers, and canals, cud co great diftances, for the convenience of water- carrl*
TO    PEKIN. I0I age.   The merchants are immenfely rich by their in- chap.xii. land and foreign trade, which they carry on, to great I721' extent, with the Russians and tartars j befides the van: fums of money they receive annually from the Europeans, in exchange for tea, chin a-ware, and other merchandife.  The trade alfo to japan, and the neighbouring iflands, is very confiderable.    What is molt remarkable in their payments, is, that they receive only dollars, crown and half-crown pieces; undervaluing" fmaller coins; of equal weight and ftandard, though they melt all down diredlly into bars of different fizes.
Tea is univerfally ufed, at all times, and by perfons of all ranks. Both the green and bohea grow on the fame tree, or rather fhrub, called by the Chinese tzay. The green tea is called tzin tzay, and the bohea ouy-tzay,. When the leaves are gathered, at the proper fcafon, they are put into large kettles, and dried over a gentle fire; which makes them crumple up, and prevents their crumbling to duft; which they would infallibly do, without this precaution.
. What is defigned for bohea, is mixed, in drying; with the juice of a certain plant, which gives it the colour and flavour, and qualifies that fharpnefs, which, in-conftant drinking, is hurtful to fome tender conftitu-*
tions.
ioi A JOURNEY
chap. xn. tions. The cultivating, gathering, dreffing, and pack-1721' ing of this ufeful plant, muft employ a great number of hands ; and particularly, of old and young people, who would be unfit for harder labour.
The high rates, at which tea is fold in Europe, arc a little furprifing, confidering the prices in china. For, at pekin, the price of the beft tea, either green or bohea, is half an ounce of filver the Chinese pound; which is equal to what it would be at two fhillings a-pound in England. And allowing the freight and duties to be high, yet the profits feem fomewhat extravagant. I ihall only add, on this fubject, that the tea, commonly fold at pekin, is preferable, in quality, to what is imported to europe from canton ; and, that the Chinese drink it without fugar, though fu-gar is a produce of the country, and confequently very cheap.
Several of the Chinese manufactures are brought to great perfection ; efpecially that of weaving filk, damasks, and other fluffs; which are partly worn by the natives, and partly exported. Silks are the common drefs, of the better fort of people, of both fexes ; and coarfe cotton-cloth that of the lower clafs. They ufe almoft no woolen cloths; becaufe, they fay, in their
climate
TO    PEKIN. 103 climate they gather too much dufh They have great chap.xii. abundance of raw filk.  They make no muflines, nor l72lm fine chints; neither are thefe much ufed.
The chxnese, it is well known, are excellent performers in feveral mechanic arts; particularly, as potters, dyers, japanners, joiners, and paper-makers. In the article of paper*making they excel even the Europeans.
Their workmanfhip in metals is but clumfy; except only founding, at which they are very expert. The arts of itatuary, fculpture, and painting, have made but fmall progrefs among them. They have excellent water-colours of all forts, but none in oil. The chief ftudy of their painters feems to be landskip-painting; and I have feen fome of their performances, in this way, very natural.
They have many quarries of fine marble, of different colours; but not fo much as a (ingle ftatue is to be feen in the Emperors garden.
The making of clocks and watches was lately introduced, under the protection of the prefent Emperor; who, at his leifure hours, amufes himfelf with whatever is curious either in art or nature.
The Chinese are a civilized and hofpitable people;
com-
T04 A JOURNEY
chap.xn. complaifant to ftrangers, and to one another; very re-172 i. gUiar m tneir manners and behaviour, and refpectful to. their fuperiors; but, above all, their regard for their . parents, and decent treatment of their women of all ranks, ought to be imitated, and deferve great praife. Thefe good qualities are a natural confequence of the fobriety, and uniformity of life, to which they have been long accuftomed.
The general regularity, and decency of manners, a-mong the Chinese, is obvious to all who fee and ob-ferve them with the lead attention. And, as they are lingular, in many things, beyond mod other nations; they are fo, likewife, in this point of polity, which I cannot omit taking notice of in my traniient remarks.
It may eafily be imagined, that, in fo populous a city, there mult be many idle perfons of both fexcs; though, I believe, fewer than in molt other cities of the world, even in thofe of much lefs extent than that of pekin. In order to prevent all diforderly practices, as much as poffLble, the government have thought fit to permit, or connive at, certain places, in the fuburbs, for the reception and entertainment of proftitutes, who are maintained by the landlords of the houfes in which they dwell; but not allowed to ftraggle abroad.
I have
TO    PEKIN. i05
I have been informed, that thefe ladies of pleafurehave chap.xii. all feparate apartments; with the price of each lady, l72lt defcribing, at the fame time, her beauties and qualities, written, over the door of her apartment, in fair legible characters; which price is paid directly by the gallant; by which means, thefe affairs are conducted without noife in the houfes, or disturbances in the neighbourhood. Noify brawls are very feldom, hardly ever, known at pekin; thofe who are found offending, in this way, undergo very fevere penalties. It is likewife to be obferved, that thefe houfes are calculated for the meaner fort of people only; fo that any perfon, who hath the leaf! regard to his credit or reputation, carefully avoids being feen in them.
I muft, however, take notice of one fhocking and unnatural practice; which appears more extraordinary in a country fo well regulated and governed as china. I mean, that of expofing fo many new-born infants in the ftreets. This, indeed, is only done by the poor, who have more wives than they can maintain. To prevent the death of thefe children, there are publick hofpitals appointed for their reception, and people fent out through the ftreets, every morning, to pick up, and carry thither, fuch children as they find expofed. The
Vol. IL O niiifio-
2o6 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. miilionaries alfo fend out people to take up fuch as ^7^^have been neglected, who are carried to a private hofpital, maintained at their charge, and educated in the christian religion.   And of fuch perfons do the greateft part of the Chinese christians confilt.
I fhall now make a few remarks upon the ladies, who have many good qualities befides their beauty. They are very cleanly, and modeft in their drefs. Their eyes are black, and fo little, that, when they laugh,, you can fcarce fee them. Their hair is black as jet, and neatly tied up, in a knot, on the crown of the head, adorned with artificial flowers of their own making; which are very becoming. The better fort, who are feldom expofed to the air, have good complexions* Thofe who are inclined to the olive, take care to add a touch of white and red paint, which they apply very nicely.
The ladies of difKnction are feldom permitted to ftir abroad, except to vifit their neareft relations; and, on thefe occafions, they are always carried in clofe chairs, and attended by their fervants. The women of all ranks flay pretty much at home. The fmall-ncfs of their feet, which renders them unable to walk 10 any confiderable diftance, makes their confinement
lefs
TO PEKIN. l0? lefs difagreeable. As foon as a girl comes into the chap. xn. world, they bind her tender feet with tight bandages, l721' which are renewed as occafion requires, to prevent their growing. This cuftom prevails univerfally, the tartar ladies, refiding in china, only excepted, who appear to have no inclination to conform to this fa-ihion.
This fafhion was introduced into china by a great Princefs, who lived fome ages ago.   She was a lady of extraordinary beauty and virtue, and has obtained the reputation of a faint; but, it is reported, her feet refembled thofe of birds; on which account fihe kept them always carefully wrapped up, and concealed even from the Emperor her husband.   The ladies of the court followed her example; which, of courfe, foon became general.   The Chinese women never pare their nails; but fuffer them to grow to the full length. This proves no impediment in embroidery, and other needlework, in which they are conftantly employed. Thefe they finilh with extraordinary neatnefs, as fully appears from fome fpecimens of them brought to europe.
The Chinese deferve great praife for their patience in finifhing, completely, every thing they undertake. And, what is ftill a greater recommendation, their la-
O 2 bours
108 A JOURNEY
chap. xn. bours are not the effect of whim or caprice, but cat-l721' culated to ferve fome ufeful purpofe. The publick works, about the city of pekin, are mftances of thefe obfervations. The ftreets, in particular, are the fineft, in the world. They are fpacious, neat, and ftraight. The canals, which fupply the city with water, have, at proper diftances, commodious ftone-bridges over them; and thefe canals are not only built with free-ftone, on the fides, but the bottoms of them paved with broad cut-ftones, in the neateft manner imaginable. There are but few fprings of foft water in pekin. And the water, in general, though a little brackifh, is by no means unwholefome.
The Chinese are generally of a middle fize, and (lender make; but very active. They are honeft, and obferve the ftricteft honour and juftice in their dealings. It muft, however, be acknowledged, that not a few of them are much addicted to knavery, and well skilled in the arts of cheating. They have, indeed, found many Europeans as great proficients in that art as themfelves. And if you once cheat them, they are fure to retaliate on the firft opportunity.
As to the religion of the Chinese, I cannot pretend to give a diftinct account of it.  According to the belt
infor-
TO PEKIN. I09 information I could procure, they are divided into fe- chap. xii. veral feels; among which, that of the Theifts is the 172U mod rational and refpe&able. They worfhip one god, whom they call tien, the Heaven or the higheft Lord, and pay no religious homage to the images of their countrymen. This feci: has fubfided for many ages longer than Christianity, and is dill mod in vogue; being embraced by the Emperor himfelf, and mod of the grandees, and men of learning. The common people are generally idolaters. The few jews and Mahometans, refiding here, are fuppofed to have entered china about fix or feven hundred years ago, in company with the wedcrn tartars. There is a very inconfiderable feci, called Crofs-worfhippers. They worfhip the holy crofs; but have lod all other marks of Christianity; which makes it probable the gofpel was preached in this country before the arrival of the miifionaries; but by whom is uncertain. The christians, at prefent, are computed to amount to one hundred thoufand, of both fexes. I have been told, the Chinese have alfo fome Atheifts among them.
I had feveral opportunities of talking with their phyficians.   They, generally, both prepare and admi-nider their own prefcriptions, and are very little acquainted
lie A JOURNEY
chap. xn. quainted with the medicinal fyftem practifed in eu-I721* rope. As they have but few chymical preparations, their chief ftudy is the virtues of plants, which they apply on all occaflons, and often with fuccefs. They feel the patient's pulfe for four or live minutes, and very feldom let blood, even in high fevers. They compare a fever to a boiling pot, and chufe rather to take the fire from it than diminifh the quantity of liquor it contains, which would only make it boil the faff er. Bathing and cupping are much practifed; and they even apply fire in fome cafes, particularly for pains in the joints, and gouty diforders. On thefe occafions they apply a lighted match, compofed of the downy fubftance that grows on mugwort, to the part affected; which, making a fear, either entirely removes or con-fidcrably mitigates the pain.
I cannot but take notice, on this occafion, of a famous plant, called gingfing, which grows in the province of leotong. The root of this plant is fo much elteemed for its phyfical virtues, that it is gathered by people, appointed by the Emperor, for this purpofe only; and is valued at the rate of about twenty five pounds Sterling the pound weight. It is fo rare, that the Emperor fent two pounds of it only in a prefent
to
TO PEKIN. HI to his Czarifti Majefty. There are two forts of it; one chap. xii. looks as if candied; the other like fmall parfley roots, 1721' and has fomething of the fame tafte. They flicc down or pound it; and, after infufion and flight boiling, give it to the patient. I could never learn from their phy-ficians, what fpecific qualities this plant poffeifed, only that it was of univerfal ufe. I have heard many ftories of ftrange cures performed by it; that perfons, feem-ingly dead, have, by its means, been reftored to health. I believe, indeed, it may be a good reftorative plant; but, if it really has any extraordinary virtues, I could never difcover them, though I have made many experiments on it, at different times. I fhould imagine this rare plant might be cultivated, with fuccefs, in the country where it grows naturally; and it appears improbable the Chinese would neglect fuch a fovereign remedy.
The great men in china follow the example of the weftern Asiatics, in keeping eunuchs to attend them; who are their counfellors, and chief confidants, on all occafions. Their bufinefs is to take care of the women; and, being in a manner detached from the world, they are much refpected. Caltrating is a trade in china; and fo skilful and dexterous are the performers
112 A JOURNEY
chap.xn. mers that few die under their hands.   I knew a man, l721' who, being reduced to low circumftances, fold himfelf to be made a eunuch, after he was thirty years of age.
The language of the Chinese is compofed chiefly of monofyllables, and, feems to me, eafily acquired; at lead as much of it as is fuflicient for converfation. The difficulty of learning their letters, or rather marks for words, cannot be fo great as is commonly repre-fented; for you fcarce meet a common hawker who cannot read and write what belongs to his calling. It requires, indeed, much labour, and confiderable abilities, to acquire the character of a learned man in china.
I have mentioned above a few only of their manufactures. I cannot omit taking notice of their paper, which is made both of filk and cotton, and is remarkably clean and fmooth. They had been in poffeffion of this art, for many ages, before they had any inter-courfe with the Europeans, as appears from their re„ cords. Their (beets are made larger than any I ever faw in Europe ; and, though they generally write with hair pencils, I have feen Chinese paper that bore our pens and ink very well.
Their ink, called toufli, is well known to our painters and defigners.  I was told, the chief ingredient in
it
TO PEKIN. it, is the burnt bones of animals.   They have feveral chap. xir. forts of it; but the befl is very cheap, and is made up I721, in partes of various figures, ftamped with characters or letters. It is generally put up in little flat boxes, fome-times double the value of the ink they contain.
I fhall here infert a fpecimen of Chinese numbers, and a few capital words, wich thofe of feveral other Asiatic nations.
Chinese numbers.
16
i
2
3
4
5 6
7 8
9
■io
11
12
J3 H
i*5
Iga.
Langa.
Sanga.
Siga.
Uga.
Leoga.
Tziga.
Paga.
Tziuga.
Shiga.
Shiyga.
Shierga.
Shifenga.
Shifga.
Shiuga,
l7
18
l9
20
3°
4°
5° 6o
7° 8o
9°
ioo iooo ioooo
Vol. II.
P
Shileocra. Shiziga, Shifpaga, Shizuga. Shielga. Shinfhiga, Tzeziga, Ufhiga. Leofhiga, Tzifhiga. Pafhiga. Tziothiga, Ibay. Itzen. Van.
Afpe-
A JOURNEY
A fpecimen of English and Chinese words.
114
CHAP.XIt.
W' God Foy. The heavens Tien.
The earth Tiye.
The fun Shilo.
The moon Jualang.
The ftars Tzifing.
The devil Kuy.
Water Shuy.
Wind Rain Good Bad
Fung. Eu. Cho. Pu.
Agood friend Cho- pung-y 11, Farewell Manfay-lea* Fire Choa. Bread Bobon.
	The mantzur's		numbers.
I	Emu.	6	Nynguin.
2		7	Naadan.
I	Han.	8	Iaachun.
4	1 uiel	9	Une.
5	Suindja.	10	loan, &c.
The	>mongalls	numbers, and fome of their	
1	Neggea.	9	JulTu.
2	Choir.	10	Arba*
3	Gurba.	1 I	Aiba-neggea
4	Dirbm	1 2	Arba Choir.
5	Tabu.	*?	Arba-gurba.
6	Zurga.	*4	Arba dirbu.
7	DoK	»5	Arba-tabu.
8	Nauma.	16	Arba-zurga.
	T O	P E K I	N.	ll5
	Arba-dolo.	100	Dzo,	chap. xn.
iS	Arba-nauma.	1000	Minga.	1721.
l9	Arba-jufTu.	10000	Tumea.	
2 0	Choiry.	God	Burchan.	
3°	Gutfhy.	The heavens Tengery.		
40	Dutfhy.	The ear	th Gadzar.	
5°	Taby.	The fun	Narra.	
60	Dira.	The moon Shara.		
70	Dala.	The ftars Odu.		
80	Naya.	The clouds Ulea,		
90	Irea,			
	The tan gut's numbers.			
1		6	Duk.	
2	Nee.	7	Dunn.	
3	Sum.	8	Dja.	
4	Che.	9	Gu.	
5	Gno.	10	Dju-tamba, &c.	
	Numbers of indostan.			
1	Eck.	6	Tzo.	
2	Duy.	7	Tatec.	
3	Tin.	8	Aatfa.	
4	Tzar.	9	Nouy.	
5	Penge.	10	Dafs, &e.	
		P 2	The	
u6 A JOURNEY
chap.xn. The people of indostan have little or no corre-1721• fpondence with china; being feparated from it by im-paflable mountains and barren deferts. They call china by the name of kitat; and the Emperor, Amo-la-Chan.
The Indians call Russia olt.
The firft great Lama, or high Prieft, near the borders of india, is called Beyngin-Bogdu; and hath his refidence at a place called digerda.
The fecond is the Delay-Lama, refiding at lahas-sar ; the Indians call him Tamtzy-Kenna From digerda to lahassar is a month's journey on foot. *
The third is the Kutuchtu, called by the Indians Tarranat, who refides at the urga, not far from selinginsky.
The prefent Great Mogul is called sheyhalim pa-tisiia. The indian married priefts are the Brach-mans; their monks are called Atheits, and their military men Refput.
The indian and tangut numbers, together with thefe few notes, I had from the Faquir, at selinginsky ; who told me, that the greateft penance that could be impofed on any of their order> was a pilgrimage to vifit thefe three high priefts.  Though 1 have
hinted
TO    PEKIN. 117 hinted fomething concerning them, during my flay at chap.xii. selinginsky, yet, as I fhall have no opportunity in J^^j future to learn any thing more about thofe great men, I think it will not be unacceptable that I have inferted the foregoing fhort notes.
I had, from my early youth, a ftrong inclination to vifit the eaftern parts of the world; and providence afforded me an opportunity, far beyond my expectations, of gratifying my curiofity in the moft ample manner. For never, perhaps, were thofe countries in a more flourishing condition than under the famous Em-perors, kamhi and peter the firft; and, perhaps, fuch another conjuncture of circumftances may not happen for feveral ages. I have now finifhed my account of the obfervations I made during my refidence in china; and, had we returned by the fame route we went eaft-ward, I mould here conclude my journal; but, as our route was different in many places, particularly, in our paifage, by water, from selinginsky to tobolsky, I fhall proceed to make my remarks on fuch places and things, only, as I have hitherto had no opportunity of mentioning.
GH AP.
Ii8 A JOURNEY
ch™. CHAPTER XIII.
^^^^Our departure from pekin, Occurrences, fee. during our jour-
ney back towards mosco.
IV If ARCH 2d, we fent off our heavy baggage, early in the morning; and, about noon, left the fine city of pekin, accompanied by feveral Chinese gentlemen, who were to return with Mr. de lange, whom his Czariih Majefty had appointed to remain, as his agent, at the court of pekin. In the evening we reached a large town, called sangpingju, where we lodged.
The 4th, Mr. de lange and our friends returned to the city, and we continued our journey. I have already mentioned moft of the remarkable towns through which we paffed; and, as little happened on the road worth notice, I lhall only obferve, that we were entertained, by the governors, in the fame hofpitable manner as before.
The 9th, we arrived at kalgan, the laft town of any note, and about three miles diftant from the long wall. We ftaid here two days, in order to provide bread, rice, and other provifions, for our journey over the
hungry desert.
Next
TO PEKIN. up Next day, the governor waited on the ambaiTador, chap.xm. and invited him to fee fome Chinese troops perform 1721 • their exercife. We accordingly walked into an adjacent field, where we found about four thoufand infantry drawn up in fix lines. All their guns had matchlocks. The field- officers were on horfeback, armed with bows and arrows; but the fubalterns on foot, having fpears, longer or fhorter, according to their rank. All the troops kept a profound filence, till the commanding officer ordered the fignal to be given for beginning the exercife; which was done by firing a fmall gun, mounted on the back of a camel. Upon this fignal, they advanced, retreated, and performed their e-volutions, according to the difcipline of the country, in a very regular manner. After finilhing this exercife, the whole corps, at laft, divided itfelf into companies of fifty men each; and, kneeling as clofe to one another as poffible, continued in this pofture for fome minutes; they then rofe, and, running to their former ftations, quickly formed themfelves, without thelcaft confufion. From what I obferved of their motions, I am of opinion they might eafily be taught any exercife whatever.
The 12th, we arrived at the gates of the main wall,
which
120 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii.which we found open.   Here the commander, and fe-17 21. vejfaj 0fjjcers 0f tfoG guard, met us, and invited the am-
baflador to walk into the guard-room, and drink a difh of tea. After this repair, we proceeded a few miles farther; but, as it was too late to get over the mountains that night, we took up our quarters at a village where we had lodged in going to pekin.
Next morning early we left the village; and travelled along the banks of a torrent, which runs through a narrow valley, between the mountains. For conveniency of the road we croffed this rivulet feveral times. The weather was very fine and warm, and the face of the country extremely pleafant. On the fides of the rocks we faw fcattered many neat cottages, furrounded with little gardens and crooked trees, which the Chinese have naturally defigned on fome of their japanned and chin a-ware. After travelling about a dozen of English miles, we afcended the rocks by a winding path, formed by art; and, as foon as we reached the fummit, we entered on the plain; for there is little or no defcent into the defert from the opening between the rocks. I obferved, that all the rivers which fpring from the mountains on the north and weft of china, run towards the fouth and fouth-eaft; and
thofe
TO   PEKIN. j2i thofe that rife weftward of the defert, direct their cour- chap.xiii. fes, through Siberia, to the north and north-weft; l721* which makes it evident, that the rocks and defert are higher than any places either in china or Siberia, We now felt a very fenfible change in the air.  In the morning, we left a warm climate; but here, we found the defert all covered with fnow.   We travelled about five miles farther, and then pitched our tents on the banks of a fmall rivulet.
The ambafTador, confidering, that to travel along with the heavy baggage would render the journey, at this feafon, tedious and difagreeable, refolved to leave it under a proper guard, and proceed, by the fhorteft and fpeedieft way, to selinginsky. Lomy, our former conductor, being appointed in the fame ftation, -was confulted on this occafion; and agreed to make one of our company; while the Chinese guard, commanded by another officer, took care of the baggage. Our party confifted of the ambafTador, Mr. krestitz., myfelf, and four fervants. We packed up beds, and •a few neceflaries, and fet out directly.
We rode very hard all the fourteenth; and, in the evening, took up our lodgings in a mongalian tent, along with the family.   The out-fide of the tent was
Vol. II. hung
i22 A JOURNEY
cHAP.xm.hung round with feveral pieces bf horfe-flefh; on which 172 1 * our landlord and his wife fupped, and invited us txi ihare their repaft; but, as we had provifions of our own, we defired to be excufed. The difagreeable fmell of this fupper made us refolve to ileep in the fields, for the future, till we came to selinginsky; for, although the nights were fomewhat cold arid frofty, the Weather was dry and pleafant.
Next day, having got frefh horfes, we proceeded on our journey. Nothing of moment occurred till the third of April, when we arrived, before noon, on the banks of the river tola. It was now nineteen days fince we left our baggage, during which time we rode very hard, changing horfes generally three or four times a day, and this was the firft running water we had feen. I cannot help taking notice of the pleafure that appeared in every face at the fight of this ftream; and I need not mention how chearfully we regaled ourfelves on this occafion. For my own part, I thought the moft delicious wines of Ispahan and thiras, not worthy to be compared to this fimple element; fo little prized by thofe who enjoy it in plenty. Our bread was all fpent fome days before; however, we had ftill fome mutton, with which we had been fupplied, from
time
TO PEKIN. time to time, during our journey. AH this time we od-chap.xiii. ferved no road; but kept moftfy about one, or fome- *72K times two days-journey to the northward of our former route.  The greateft danger, attending this way of travelling, arofe from the arrows which the mongalls had fet in ftrong bent bows, covered with fand, for killing antelopes.   One of our horfes happened to tread on one of thefe bows; the arrow immediately flew out, and, moft fortunately, hit the ftirrup iron; otherwife the horfe or rider would have been killed upon the fpot.   We had, indeed, guides to conduct us, from place to place, but they were unacquainted with any fnares laid beyond their own bounds.
This day, about noon, fome mongalls unluckily fet fire :o the long grafs before us, which, by means of a ftrong wind, foon fpread to a great diftance. We immediately retired to the top of a neighbouring hill; (for now the grounds begin to rife, and the foil is much better near the river;) and, fetting fire to the grafs a-round us, travelled near a mile in a difmal cloud of fmoke. Some of our people who were behind us, and unprovided with flints, were put to hard lhifts, having their hair and cloaths all finged. We forded the tola in pretty deep water, and continued our journey
Q_ 2 through
124 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii. through pleafant valleys, between gently riling hills, ^J^^fome of whofe tops were adorned with woods, which looked as if planted by art.
Nothing worth mentioning occurred, till the morning of the 6th of April, when we reached the river iro; but found the ford fo frozen that we could not ride it. As our provifions were now nearly all fpent, and we were quite tired of lying in the open air, we wanted to pafs the river at any rate. After long fearch for a ford, we, at laft, found a place clear of ice; but exceftively deep. We immediately ftripped off our cloaths, mounted our horfes, and fwam a-crofs the river; which was at this place about forty yards broad. After getting all fafe to the other fide, we lighted a great fire of fticks to dry and warm ourfelves; and then: fet forward to the rivulet saratzyn, the boundary between the Russian and Chinese territories, which we reached in the evening. From the tola to this place we had feen no inhabitants; but here we found a few moncalls, fubjects of russia, .who hofpitably entertained us with fuch fare as the place afforded.
The 7th, we fet out early, and, at noon, came to a zimovey, (a fingle houfe built for the accommodation of travellers,) inhabited by a Russian, who entertained
us
TO    PEKIN. I25 us with good bread, and other homely fare.   After acHAP.xni. fhort flay we mounted, and, at night, came to another l721-of thefe houfes, belonging to the commifiary, Mr. step-nikoff, of the caravan, where we were well provided with neceflary accommodations.
Next day, we arrived in good health at the town of selinginsky; and all of us had good reafon to return our mofl grateful thanks to the almighty Difpofer of all events, who conducted us fafe through fo many dangers, without the leaft accident befalling any of our company.
The 12 th, the ambaffidor having made the conductor an handfome prefent, and thanked him for his trouble and obliging behaviour, that gentleman took leave, and returned to china.
Next day, we fet out, on horfe-back, for irkutsky. We lodged every night in villages till the 16th, when we arrived at the possolsky monaitery, fituated on the fouth more of the baykal fea, as formerly obferved. The fuperior received and entertained us with great hofpitality; and furniihed us horfes and fledges for paffing the fea upon the ice, which we found perfectly firm, though the people on the fouth fhore were ploughing and fowing their oats.
April
j*3 A JOURNEY
cHAP.xin. April 7th, having taken leave of the monks, we pla-cec^ ourfelves in the fledges, and drove along a pathway upon the ice. We found feveral large gaps in the ice, which run for many miles a-crofs the fea, and are generally from two to five, or fix feet, wide. Thefe we pafled on long boards, which we were obliged to carry along with us, for that purpofe. They are made, I conjecture, by the air; which, being pent up under the ice, burfts out through thefe apertures. I obferved alfo a number of fmall round holes, which are made by the feals, who come thither for breath and to bask themfelves in the fun. Thefe circumftances render travelling on the ice extremely dangerous, except in day light, and clear weather. Towards evening the ambaffador and myfelf, being provided with light Hedges, put on at a great rate, in order to get in with the fhore before night. This we happily accomplished, and arrived at a filhcrman's houfe, near the mouth of the angara; where we found a warm room, and a boars head, hot from the oven, for fupper. But, a little before fun-fet, a thick fog arofe to the weftward, accompanied with terrible thick drifts of fnow, which foon covered the road upon the ice, and filled every gap and hole.   Our poor people, who had not yet reached
TO   PEKIN. 127 the land, were caught In the ftorm, forced to Hop fhort,CHAP,xiir. and ly on the ice all nidit, with their horfes and car- ll21' fiages.   We had, indeed, difpatched the fifhermen to conduct them to the fhore; but the fnow continuing to fall very thick, they returned without being able to find them.  This difappointment created in us fome un-eafinefs; but there was no remedy.   We were obliged to wait patiently till the morning, when they arrived in a very diflreffed condition; half dead with cold and wet.   However, by proper accommodation, and fome warm liquor, they foon recovered.
Next day, we fent back the fledges to the monafte-ry; and, after our people had refrefhed themfelves with a little lleep, about noon, we mounted, and proceeded about four miles, to the fmall chapel of sr. ntcolas. We had now paffed all the cataracts, and there was no ice to be feen in the river; we immediately, therefore, got boats and rowed down the ftream. In the evening, we put afhore at a fmall village, where we lodged; and were plentifully provided with variety of excellent frefh fiih for fupper.
The 1 oth, in the morning, we went again on board; and, about two in the afternoon, landed at irkutsky, and dined with our old friend, Mr. rakitin, the commandant
izi A JOURNEY
cHAP.xin.mandant, who met us on the river, about two hours 1721* before we landed. Some days after our arrival, Mr. ismayloff was feized with a fever; which went off in a few days, without any bad confequences. We waited here for our baggage, which did not arrive till the fecond of July. During this time, little remarkable happened. We diverted ourfelves with hunting and fifhing; and, though we lived much at our eafe, the time grew tedious, and we wanted much to be gone.
About the ioth of May, the ice began to break up, in the baykal, and continued floating down the river, for fome days, in great fho.als. The wTeather was very hot, before the ice came down; but when this happened, an alteration was fenfibly felt; for the air, about the fides of the river, became extremely chilly. A fmall part only of the ice, about the mouth of the an-cara, floats down that river, the reft, being fcattered along the (bore by the winds, is melted down as the feafon advances. This is accounted the moft unhealthy feafon of the year; as people, notwithstanding all poftible precautions, are very apt to catch cold. I have already made fome remarks on irkutsky, and the country adjacent; I fhall therefore only add, that in fummer, which is very hot, the country is much pefterr
ed
TO    PEKIN. l2x) cd with fwarms of muskitoes and large gnats; whichchap.xiil are fo troublefome, that thofe who have occafion to p-o 172 1 • into the fields are obliged to wear nets of horfe-hair, to defend their faces from the attacks of thefe infects.
July 2d, the barks arrived fafe from selinginsky, with our people and haggage. They told us many difmal (Tories of the hardships they had fuffcred in paf-fing the defert; but, on comparing notes, the difference was not great berween their misfortunes and our own.
After our people had refted a few days, and necef-faries were procured for the voyage, on the 5th, they moved off, and rowed down the Angara. The ambafTador, myfelf, and two fervants, fTaid behind, in order to proceed in a fmall Shallop, which had a little cabbin in the fTern, and was rowed with ten oars. The commandant caufed it to be built for our ufe; and as it failed quickly, and was rowed by our own men, we could purfue the voyage, at pleafure, without being confined to attend upon the heavy barks.
The 7th, we went on board, accompanied by the commandant and feveral other gentlemen, and fell down the river to a monaflcry in the neighbourhood, where we were invited to dine with the fuperior, who
Vol. II. R made
!go A JOURNEY
CHAP.xni.made us a grand entertainment of excellent fifh; and I721, furnifhed us, befides, with (Tore of provifions for our voyage. In the evening we took leave of the abbot, and the reft of our friends; and, being affifted by a rapid current, went down the river at a great rate. At night we put afhore, and took up our quarters in a village.
As little of importance occurred during the pro-grefs of our voyage, I need not be particular in defcrib-ing it. The banks of the river, on both fides, are pleafant and fruitful, and beautifully diverfified with tall woods, villages, and corn-fields; and we found c-very-where great abundance of fifh. But what renders this fine country extremely difagreeable, is the fwarms of muskitoes, with which every part of it is infeftcd. The gnats, about ilimsky in particular, are of a much larger fizc, and are reckoned more venomous than any in Siberia ; but have this good quality, that they never enter houfes, as the muskitoes do. The tongu-ses, when they are angry with any perfon, with that an ilimsky gnat may fling him. This may appear but a flight punifhment; but it marks the character of thefe fimple people.
The 51th, we failed the whole day, with a fair wind
and
TO PEKIN. ij| and ftrong current; and, in the evening, overtook ourcHAP.xm. barques. Next day, we came to a great cataract, cal- l721* led p a d u n from the fteepnefs of the fall. This fall we paffcd fafely, as there was water enough upon the rocks for our veffels. The next cataract we met with, which, from its great length, is called dolgoy, was reckoned more dangerous; for, befides the length and deepnefs of the paflage, it was extremely crooked, winding from one fide to another by turns, among rocks and great ftones. In paffmg thefe cataracts, the pilot fits upon the bow of the veffel, and makes figns, with his cap, to the people at the helm, which way to fleer; for the waters, darning againft the rocks and great ftones, make fuch an hideous noife, that not a fingle articulate found can be heard. The oars, befides, muft be plied very hard, in order to prevent the veffel from running to either fide; for if once fhe touches the rocks, all the goods muft infallibly be loft, and, perhaps, the mens lives; of which difafters there are many examples.
The i ith, we paffed another cataract, called shaman sky, which is reckoned the moft dangerous of them all, the channel being very narrow and crooked. Some of our company chofe to walk along the banks, rather than run the rifque of palling by water; but
R 2 they
132 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii. they repented of their refolution; for they were obli-^^^ged to fcramble over rocks, and through thickets, where they faw many vipers, and other venomous creatures. We flopped, at the bottom of the fall, to take them on board, and refrcfh our rowers. As the ambafTador ftaid on board, I remained along with him.
Befides thefe three great cataracts, there are many leffer ones, called by the country-people shivers ; but, as the paffmg them is attended with little danger, I make no mention of them.
It is furprifing that loaded veflels fhould pafs thefe falls againft the ftream. They are commonly warped up by means of ftrong anchors and cables; and on the goodnefs of the tackle all depends; for fhould it chance to give way, all is loft. This is a laborious piece of work, though not very coftly in thefe parts; and the navigation of this river is attended with no other inconvenience, except that of ftriking againft flumps of trees hid under the water.
The 14th, we left the an car a, and entered the toncusky, a mighty ftream, formed by the Angara, and another fmall river called elim. The tongusky points to the northward of the weft, and is well ftored with excellent fifh.
We
TO    PEKIN. Ij3 We went afhore, this day, at a little village, called chap.xiil seeza, fltuated on a high bank of the ton g usky. JZ^^ Here we were met by our old acquaintance General kanifer, who came from elimsky to fee Mr. is-mayloff.   I took notice before of having feen this gentleman in our journey eaftward.   We difpatched our barques, and ftaid with him two days. After which we proceeded down the river; and he returned to e-limsky by water, attended only by his own fervants; for, though he was a prifoner, he had liberty to go where he pleafed, as an efcapc was impracticable in fuch remote parts.
The 17th, we fet fail with an eafterly wind, and a ftrong current, which carried us along with great velocity. We palled many villages, and fome tongusian huts, upon the banks, to which we made feveral vifits. We found the men generally employed in fifhing in their little canoes, and the women in looking after their children and rain-deer, which, at this feafon, lie near the huts, becaufe the gnats will not naffer them to flay in the woods. In order to baniih thefe troublefome vermin, they light fires all around the place of their abode; and the infects, unable to endure the fmoke, immediately fly off. For the fame reafon, no perfon flits
abroad
134 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii.abroad without carrying, in his hand, a fmall earthen pot l72 ' filled with finokino: coals. The canoes skim upon the water very fwiftly, but the leaft touch of an unskilful hand overfets them. The tonguse places himfelf on his knees, in the middle of his boat, keeping it as even balanced as poffible; and, with a little paddle only,ventures to crofs the greateft rivers. I have feen them haul to the fide a flurgeon of great weight. When a tonguse wants to go from one river to another, a-crofs a neck of land, he takes his boat upon his back, and carries it whither he pleafes.
The ioth, we were overtaken with fuch a heavy fhower of rain, in the middle of the river, that, before we could reach the bank, our boat was half full, notwithstanding all hands were employed in rowing, or fcooping out the water. However, after much labour and difficulty, we at laft got to land, wet to the skin; and, what was much worfe, all our bedding thoroughly drenched in water. After we had hauled up our boat, and fattened it to a tree, we went into a thick wood, and kindled a great fire to warm and dry ourfelves; but, the rain being abated, a violent ftorm of wind a-rofe from north-we ft, fo that we were forced to remain all night in this difmal place, at a great diftance from
•
any
TO PEKIN. 135 any village. In this condition we lay, round a greatchap.xiii. fire, till next morning. 17 21.
The 20th, early in the morning, we left the woods, went on board our boat, and proceeded down the river. About noon, we reached a village, on the right hand, where we halted fome hours to refrefh ourfelves, and dry our cloaths. In the evening, we pufhcd off again, and came to another village, where we lodged. On this river are great numbers of water-fowl, of different kinds, which come hither to hatch their young in fummer; and fly off, to the fouth, at the approach of winter. I obferved, alfo, a large fowl, of a grayifh colour, about the fize of a kite; after it has hovered for fometime upon the wing, if it fpies a fifh in the water, it ftoops fuddenly, ftrikes it's prey, and even dives below water to catch it; after which it flics to the bank, and eats it.
There are alfo wild goats upon the rocks along the fhore. They are very large animals, with long and thick horns. Their fhaggy coat is brownifh, having a black ridge down the back. They have long beards like common goats, but are twice as large. It is fur-prifing to fee them leap from one rock to another. They go in pairs about this feafon; but, towards winter
4 3$ A JOURNEY
cHAP.xm.ter, retire, in herds, to the fouth.   On the hills, and ^^^*(in the woods, are all forts of game, and wild beads, natural to the climate.
The 21 ft, we overtook our barques, and kept in company with them till night, when we arrived at a village, where we lodged. In this river are many iflands, fome of which are very large, and others furrounded with high rocky ihores. Moft of them are covered with tall birch and pine trees, fit for mafts to the larger! fhips; and form a beautiful profpect. We had no need to go afhore in order to feek fport, as we found plenty of wild ducks, and other water-fowl, wherever we came. As to frefh fifh, we had more of them, in every village, than we could confume.
The two following days we continued our voyage, without meeting with any thing worth mentioning; and, on the morning of the 24th, arrived at the conflux of the rivers yenisey and tongusky, where the latter lofes it's name; and, both joined, retain the name -of yenisey. The yenisey falls into the tongusky from the fouth, and its courfe is then turned northward by the current of the other; which, in my opinion, is the larger of the two. It is obferved, that the -yenisey does not afford fuch plenty of fiih, norfo good
of
TO    PEKIN. x^j of their kinds, as the other rivers of this country, chap.xiii. Thefe two rivers, joined, form a mighty ft ream; among 17 2 1 • the greateft in the world.   I think it larger than the volga at astrachan.   It continues its courfe to the north-weft, daily augmented by other confiderable rivers, till it falls into the icy fea.
In the evening, we arrived at the town of yenisey-sky, where we were met by our friend Mr. becklimi-shoff, the commandant, who conducted us firft to our lodgings, and then to his ov/n houfe to fupper. Our barques alfo arriving in the evening, the whole company met again at this place; not a little happy at having fafely paffed the water-falls, and efcaped the dangers to which we had already been expofed; though we were ftill above a thoufand leagues from the end of our journey.
As we had no time to lofe, our baggage was landed next day, and the barques difcharged. The packing the baggage, for land-carriage, took up two days; after which it was tranfportcd to a place called ma-kofsky, on the river keat, where it was again put on board other barques, which lay ready for that purpofe. The road lies to the weftward, moftly through thick and dark woods; in dry weather, it is tolerably good-,
Vol. II. S but
T38 A JOURNEY
cHAP.xm.t)Ut in heavy autumnal rains fcarce paffable.  We ftaid
^7^^ at yenisey sky, through the perfuafion of our hofpi-table landlord, the commandant, till we heard all was ready at makofsky.
Having formerly mentioned the pleafant fituation of yeniseysky, and the fertility of the foil about it; I fhall only add, that the harveft, at this place, was already far advanced; the barley being all reaped, and the people at work in cutting their oats. This feems very early, in a climate fo far to the north, and muft proceed from the heat of the fummer, and the foil being fertilized by the nitrous particles of the fnow, which lies fo long upon the ground.
Auguft 2d, we left yeniseysky on horfe-back, ac^ companied by the commandant, who ftaid with us all night, at a village about ten miles from town. Next morning, we took leave of our friend, and proceeded to makofsky; where we arrived in the evening, and found the barques ready waiting for us.
The 4th, early in the morning, we went on board, and, puihing off from the fhore, rowed down the river keat. The water being fhallow, we made but little way the firft day; but, as we advanced, it increaf-td daily, by rivers and brooks from both fides. Before
TO    PEKIN. I3? fore we left makofsky, we laid in provifions for threechap.xiii. weeks, in which time we computed we would enter 1721* the oby; for, during this long navigation, there is not^^^^ a iingle houfe, nor village, to be feen, except one religious houfe, pofleffed by three or four monks, refem-bling more an hermitage than a monadery.
The keat is really a mod difmal river. It is not above the flight of an arrow broad, and fo overfha-dowed with tall trees, that you can fcarce fee the fun. The banks are a perfect wildernefs, and fo intangled with bufhes, that no creature can pafs along them but wild beads; with which thefe woods greatly abound. Near the edge of the river, we found great quantities of black currants upon the bufhes, the larged and bed I ever faw. I was told the bears feed much on this fruit.
The river keat takes its rife from a lake at a fmall didance from the yenisey; and were a canal cut between them, which might eafily be done, there would be a paffage, by water, from verchaturia to the borders of china. But his Czariuh Majedy was, at this time, employed in works of the fame nature, of much greater importance to his country.
The keat runs in a crooked channel, pointing, in
S 2 general
f4o A JOURNEY
chap.xiii.general, to the weft. The bottom is ouzy, and forrre* ^7^^ times fandy. The barques, at firft, run often a-ground' on the fand banks, and the people were obliged to gee into the water, and heave them off, by main force, with levers and fetting poles; befides thefe little inconveni-encies, we were molefted with gnats and muskitoes, in-this confined place, more than we had formerly been in any part of our journey. They were not, indeed, fa numerous as they had been in the heat of fummer; for the nights began to be cold, and the wind northerly. However, no wind could reach us in this clofe place; and I even wifhed myfelf in the defert again, where T might breath the frefh air. In fhort, the appearance of this place put me in mind of the defcriptions, given by the poets, of the river- styx.
During our tedious voyage down the dark keat, our only diverfion and exercife was fhooting wild-ducks. One day Mr. ismayloff and myfelf went down the river in a fmall canoe, rowed by two foldiers, at. fomo diftance before the barques. We met with a large flock of ducks, which fwam up a narrow creek in or* der to avoid us. We failed a little way after them; and, in the mean time, our barques paffed us, and continued before us till night, ftill imagining they .had
not
TO   PEKIN". r4T aot overtaken us.   This day's fport coft us dear; for,CHAP.xin. our rowers being quite fatigued, we were obliged to *72I# relieve them, and row in our turns, till at laft we came up with the barques, both hungry and tired. To make fome amends, we had a good difti of wild-ducks for fupper.
The 20th, we met with two osteaks in their canoes, who had come from the river oby, to catch fifh' and kill ducks; and had their fifhing tackle, and bows and arrows along with them. We were glad to fee any human creature. We called them on board, and they willingly ftaid with us till we entered the oby, and fupplied us with plenty of fifh and wild fowl. Thefe were the firft of the tribe of the osteaks I had feen. I fhall eive fome account of them, when I defcribe our voyage down that river, on the banks of which they have their habitations.
I formerly mentioned the great abundance of black currants growing on the banks of the keat. We found them an excellent and wholefome fruit; many of our people eat great quantities of them without the lcaft bad effect;
After a tedious voyage, with little variety, we arriv* ed, on the 28th, at a village called ketskoy, a few
miles
J4* A JOURNEY
CHAP.XIH.miles diftant from the oby. After procuring, at this l72lt place, what neceffaries we wanted, and refrefhing; our-felves a few hours, we continued our voyage, making what way we poiTibly could; for fear of being frozen up, near fome defert place on the oby, before we came to tobolsky, where we intended to land. We had no rain all the time we were upon the keat; which was a lucky circumftance, as our oars were upon deck. Had our barques drawn only about eighteen inches water, as was intended, we fhould not have been above fourteen days on this river, and thereby faved much time and labour; but, coming from china, every per-fon in the retinue had a little, which overloaded the veffels, and retarded their progrefs. The next day, we entered the famous river oby, which, from its breadth and deepth of water, appears, at leaf!, equal to the Volga or yenisey, and could carry mips of confiderable burden.
The 30th, we reached the firft town upon the oby, called narim, fituated on the north bank, about a gun-mot from the river, and a few miles from the mouth of the keat. It commands a fine profpect, up and down the river, and of the woods to the fouth. Near the town, are a few corn-fields, and garden grounds,
abound-
TO   PEKIN. I43 abounding with greens and roots.   This place has acHAP.xm. fmall fortrefs governed by a commandant.   The inha- 17 21' bitants are generally dealers in furs, which they buy from the osteaks; and either carry them themfelves to the borders of china, where they are exchanged for the commodities of that nation, or difpofe of them to merchants going thither.
The 31 ft, we dined with the commandant, and fpent the reft of the day in laying in a ftock of provifions. We found, at this place, plenty of fine fiffi; particularly fterlet, fturgeon, and muckfoon, and many more too tedious to mention; the laft is peculiar to the oby and irtish..
Here I met with Mr. borlutt, a native of flAnders, who had been a major in the Swedish fervice, and fent to this place a prifoner of war. He was a very ingenious gentleman, and had a particular turn for mechanicks. The commandant treated him more like a friend than a prifoner; which, indeed, was the cafe of moft of thofe unfortunate gentlemen, whom the fate of war had fent to this country. His Czariih Majefty, well confidering their circumftances, fent them to a plentiful country, where they could live at xheir eafe till peace was reftored.
September
544 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii. September iff, having provided ourfelves with ne-I721, ceffaries, and got new rowers, our former ones returning to yeniseysky, from whence they came, in the evening we went again on board; and, putting off in fine calm weather, rowed down the oby at a great rate; our courfe being much favoured by the rapidity of the current. We paffed feveral villages, and a little mo-naftery called troytza. The banks to the north are pretty high, but to the fouth flat; by which means, on the melting of the fnow in the fpring, they are overflowed to a great extent. The river runs towards the north-weft, with little variation. We continued our voyage night and day, except in great darknefs, or a gale of contrary wind, when we were obliged to ly by in fome creek.
The osteaks, I mentioned above, differ from all the other tribes of natives in Siberia, both in complexion and language. Many of them are fair, refem-bling the people of Finland, and they have many Finnish words in their language. Their manner of life is nearly the fame with that of the tonguse, who border with them to the eaftward. In fummer, they live in the woods, in huts covered with birchen bark. In winter, they dig pits, acrofs which they lay flakes,
above
TO    PEKIN. l45 above them fpread earth, to keep them warm. TheycHAP.xin. have a fire in the middle, and a hole in the roof to let 1721' out the fmoke.   During this feafon they live chiefly on fifh, dried and fmoked, wild fowl, or what elfe they catch in hunting.  Many of them are flout fellows, fit for any fervice.   Two of them, with their bows and arrows, a fhort fpear, and a little dog, will attack the greateft bear.   They are dexterous archers and fifher-men.   We had always a number of them, in canoes, round our barques, who fupplied us with plenty of fifh and wild fowl, of various forts, at an eafy rate. Give them only a little tobacco, and a dram of brandy, and they ask no more, not knowing the ufe of money.
The osteaks, though a favage people in their manner of life, are far from being barbarous; for a Angle Russian will travel about all their abodes, in order to purchafe furs, without fear of any violence. They are alfo remarkable for their honefty; and the fmall tribute of furs, which they pay annually to his Czarifh Majefty, they bring punctually to the place appointed.
In fummer, they wear nothing but coats and fhort drawers, made of fifh-skins, dreffed after their fafhion • but, in winter, are clothed with skins of deer and other wild beads.
Vol. 'II. T They
i46 A JOURNEY
chap.xiii.   They have no cattle except rain-deer, which fupply 17 21 * their children with milk; and are, befides, of great fer-vice to them on many accounts.
As to their religion, they are ignorant heathens, like the reft of the natives of Siberia. They have many both male and female fhamans, who are in great efteem a-mong them. Thefe lhamans have many fmall images, or rather blocks of wood, rudely cut with a knife or hatchet, reprefenting a human figure, drefled up in rags of various colours, by which they pretend to fore-tel future events, fuch as the good or bad luck of thofe that go a-hunting. But thefe are no better than o-thers of the fame fpecies, already mentioned, who im-pofe on the ignorance or credulity of their neighbours.
From what I have now and formerly faid concerning thefe poor favage tribes, it will appear that they are involved in the moft profound ignorance. Their manners are fo rude, and minds uncultivated, that many of them feem ftupid, and altogether unmindful of any thing beyond their prefent employment. I have, however, met with men of reflection among them, who agreed with the reft of mankind, in acknowledging one
great
TO PEKIN. Izf7 great almighty Creator of this world, and of every thingcHAP.xm. elfe. J721-
The archbiihop of tobolsky has, of late, baptifed many of the osteaks, and other natives, in a tour he made through Siberia with that view; and it is to be hoped his fucceffors will follow his laudable example.
CHAPTER XIV.
Our arrival at the toivn of surgute, our journey thence to mosco, fome account of the creature called mammon, fee.
y^FTER a voyage of ten days from the town of narim, during which little remarkable happened, we arrived, on the i i th of September, at another town, called surgute, fituated on the north bank of the oby, and defended by a fmall fort. The inhabitants, like the people of narim, are moftly traders in furs. The adjacent country, on both fides of the river, is overgrown with dark and tall woods, where there is no cultivated ground, except a few gardens. Bread is got, at a fmall charge, by water-carriage, from tobolsky, and other places on the river Irtish.
In the banks of the oby, about this place, are found great quantities of that kind of ivory called, in this
T 2 country,
*48 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv.country, mammons horn. Some of it, alfo, is found 1721* on the banks of the volga, Mammons horn re-fembles, in fhape and fize, the teeth of a large elephant. The vulgar really imagine mammon to be a creature living in marfhes and under ground; and entertain many ftrangc notions concerning it. The tartars tell many fables of its having been feen alive. But to me it appears that this horn is the tooth of a large e-lephant. When, indeed, or how, thefe teeth came fo far to the northward, where no elephants can, at prefent, fubfifl during the winter-feafon, is what I am unable to determine. They are commonly found in the banks of rivers which have been waihed by floods. The commandant of this place had his entry ornamented with feveral very large ones, and made me a prefent of one of them.
I have been told by tartars in the baraba, that they have feen this creature, called mammon, at the dawn of day, near lakes and rivers; but, that on difcovering them, the mammon immediately tumbles into the water, and never appears in the day-time; they fay it is about the fize of a large elephant, with a monftrous iarge head and horns, with which he makes his way in •marfhy places, and under ground, where he conceals
him-
TO PEKIN. 149 himfelf till night. I only mention thefe things as thecHAP.xiv. reports of a fuperflitious and ignorant people. 17 21.
I have obferved, in molt of the towns, we palled, between tobolsky and yenesiesky, many of thefe mammons horns, fo called by the natives; fome of them very entire and frefh, like the beft ivory, in every cir-cumfiance, excepting only the colour, which was of a yellowifh hue; others of them mouldered away at the ends, and, when fawn afunder, prettily clouded. The people make fnuff boxes, combs, and diverfe forts of turnery ware, of them.
They are found in the banks of all the great rivers in Siberia, weflward of iencousky, when the floods have warned down the banks, by the melting of the fnow, in the fpring. I have feen of them weighing a-bove one hundred pounds English. [I brought a large tooth, or mammons horn, with me to England, and prefented it to my worthy friend Sir hans sloane, who gave it a place in his celebrated Mufeum; and was of opinion, alfo, that it was the tooth of an elephant. This tooth was found in the river oby, at a place called surgute.]
The 1 2 th, after we had been fupplied with a frefh flock of provifions, and frefh rowers, we proceeded towards
150 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv.wards the next ftage, called samarofsky-yamm, near I72j ' the conflux of the oby and irtish.   The wind being: contrary, we made but flow progrefs.  The near approach of winter, which ufually begins about the firft of October, made us haften forward as faft as poffible.
Next day, the wind being eafterly, we hoifted our fails, and run along at a great rate; and, the 14th, arrived at a fmall village on the north fhore.  The fouth bank ftill continued low and flat.   At this village we faw great quantities of wild geefe, picked, and fmoked, and hung in fhades, for winter-provifions.    We had fome of them dreffed; but I cannot much praife them for agreeable food.   The people of this place catch vaft numbers of them in day-nets, more on account of the down and feathers, than of their flelh, which is but of fmall value.   We let our barques proceed; and detained a boat to follow them, as foon as we had feen the method of catching the wild geefe.   The fportf-man conducted us into a fpacious open plain, encom-paffed with woods and water.   Here he had his large nets, with wide maftics, fprcad; and a fmall hut, made of green branches, to conceal himfelf. Upon the grafs were fcattercd about a fcore of geefe skins fluffed, fome of them ftanding, others fitting, in natural poll u res.
TO PEKIN. i5i ftures. As foon as he fees a flock flying over Iiischap.xiv. head, he calls, with a bit of birchen bark in his mouth, 1721 * exactly like the wild geefe. On hearing the call, they take a turn round, and then alight among the fluffed skins; which being perceived by the fportf-man, he immediately draws a firing, and claps the nets over the whole flock, or as many of them as are within their reach. The geefe always alight and rife with their heads to windward; to prevent, therefore, fuch as efcape the day-net from flying off, he has a deep long net placed, on tall flender poles, to windward, which intanglcs great numbers in their rifing. I am perfuaded this method might eafily be practifed, in other parts of the world, to greater advantage; though, I believe, there are no where fuch quantities of waterfowl, efpecially geefe of different kinds, as in thefe northern climates; where, free from annoyance, they bring forth their young among woods and lakes, and, at the approach of winter, fly off to the Caspian fea, and other fouthern regions.
There is here one fpecies of geefe, called kazarky, of a fize lefs than the common wild goofe, having beautiful fear let fpots about the head, and fome feathers of the fame colour in its wings.   Of this fort I faw great
flocks
j52 A JOURNEY
chapxiv.flocks about the Caspian fea in winter.   Befides thefe, 1721- there are numbers of fwans, and all forts of waterfowl natural to the climate.
The woods are ftored with game, and various forts of wild fowl; particularly, the coc-limoge, the heath-cock, and feveral others too tedious to mention. The manner in which the coc-limoge is caught, by the osteaks, is fomewhat curious.
They make a paling, about four or five feet high, running from any wood, along a fandy bank, to the edge of the river, having the flakes fet fo clofe that the fowls cannot pafs between them. In this paling they leave openings, at certain diftances, large enough to afford a paflage for thefe birds; and, rather than take the wing, the cock will fcek a paflage from one end of the hedge to the other. In thefe openings are fet firings, on bent branches, which, as foon as touched, fly up, and catch the fowl, either by the neck, or feet. Hie osteaks brought us thefe, and other wild fowl, in great plenty.
The 15th, in fine weather, we continued our voyage; ufing our fails or oars, by turns, as circumftances obliged us. Little material happened till the 19th in the evening, when wc left the oby, and entered the river
irtish p
TO    PEKIN. 153 Irtish; and, night coming on, we put afhore, wherechap.xit, we ftaid till next morning-.   On entering the Irtish, l72lm we had a ftrong current againft our courfe, which had been down the ftream, in all the different rivers, from selinginsky to this place.
Before I proceed farther, I fhall take a view of the famous oby. It is one of the largeft rivers in the world; and runs as long a courfe as any in Siberia, or perhaps in any other quarter of the globe. It rifes in the defert, feveral hundred miles fouthward of the baraba; and is daily augmented, by many ftreams of different names, till it reaches a place called belogarsky, where it takes the name of oby, at the conflux of two large rivers, the alley and the tzaritt, Thefe rivers joined form the oby. The oby fignifies both in the Russian language. But I am of opinion, this river had that name long before Siberia was known to the Russians; as the natives flill give it that name.
In going eaftward, we paffed the oby upon the ice, at a place called tzausky ostrogue; where it made no great appearance, in comparifon of what it does after receiving the rivers tom, tzulim, keat, Irtish, and many others; when, indeed, it may be reckoned in the number of the largeft rivers in the world. It
Vol, II. U points
IJ4 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv. points generally to the north, with various windings, 1721' till it meets the keat, when it turns to the north-weft*; and runs in that direction many miles, till, meeting with the Irtish, it turns fhort, in a rapid current, towards the pole, fwallowing up many rivers and brooks in its courfe; and, at laft, it difcharges itfelf into the northern ocean, at a great bay called obskaya-guba, or the lips of the oby.
Few rivers in the world contain greater plenty and variety of fifh than the oby. The banks to the fouth produce woods in abundance, interfperfed with cornfields, and good pafturage. I have been informed, that in thefe parts are rich mines of copper and iron, and even filver.
At the conflux of the oby and Irtish are feveral large iflands; and farther north, feveral villages; but only one town of any note, called bercosa, fituated on the left hand.
I may here obferve, that geographers generally a-£ree, that a line drawn from the place where the river tanais, now called don, difcharges itfelf into the fea of azof, or the black fea, to the mouth of the oby, is the proper boundary betwixt Europe and asia.
The 20 th, early in the morning, we ftioved off from
the
TO    PEKIN. ,55 the fhore, and made the belt of our way up the Irtish, chap.xiv. In the evening, we reached samariofsky-yamm, where l721-we lodged this night.
Next day, having taken on board freih labourers, and the wind being northerly, and very cold, we put off in hafte, hoifted fail, and went along at a great rate. The wind continuing from this point, was a certain fign that winter was at no great diftance; and, that we might foon expect to be met by fhoals of floating ice.
The 2 2d, the north wind flill continued very ftrong, to our great joy. For, although there are many villages on the Irtish, we dreaded the being frozen up near fome defert place.
Next day, there fell a little fnow, which foftened the coldnefs of the air; but, at the fame time, the wind unfortunately chopped about to the weft ward, and retarded our progrefs.
The 24th, we continued our voyage; and, next day, the wind again becoming northerly, we ufed our fails all that day and night. We proceeded, without any thing material happening, till the 20th, when we reached demiansky, a town ftanding on the eaftern bank.
Next day, we fet out immediately, after taking in
U 2 &efh
156 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv. frelh rowers.   The fields were now covered with mow, l72}' and the frofl fo ftrono;, that the ice beean to float in the river; and we expected every day to be frozen up.
Thefe figns, of approaching winter, influenced Mr. xsmaylof to leave the barques, to follow as fhould be poffible for them, while himfelf made the beft of his way to tobolsky, in a fmall boat. Accordingly, carrying me along with him, we immediately fet out towards that place.
October the firft, we continued rowing along, near the banks, and took in frefh rowers as occafion offered. The river was full of great fhoals of ice, the froft ftrong, and much fnow. In the evening, we arrived, cold and wet, at a fmall village, where we lodged in a warm room, about fifty verft from tobolsky.
Next day, the river was fo covered with ice that we could proceed no farther in our boats; but luckily, in the night, there fell fnow enough for fledges. We foon got horfes, and fuch open fledges as the place afforded, and, in the evening, arrived fafe at the city of tobolsky. We went immediately to the palace of Prince alexie michaylovitz cherkasky, the governor, who was an intimate friend of the ambaffador,. This Prince was much ejfteemed for his capacity, as
TO PEKIN, i57 well as his great probity and honour. We fupped with chap.xiv. him, and then retired to our lodgings; but could not l]2J avoid commiferating the fate of our fellow travellers, labouring with the ice, and afraid of being frozen up every minute.
The 3d, we fent fome foldiers to meet the barques, and aiTift them in coming up the river. And on the 5th, they arrived fafe at tobolsky; where they were, next day, difcharged.
We were obliged to flay here for the falling of the mow, in order to proceed on fledges, the common method of travelling in winter. At this place, we thought ourfelves at home, having good lodgings, good company, and plenty of provifions; fo that we waited patiently for the fetting in of winter; befides, we had now a frequented road, lying through a well inhabited country, all the way to mosco^
During our flay at tobolsky, I was informed, that a large troop of gipfies had been lately at that place, to the number of fixty and upwards, confiding of men, women, and children. The Russians call thefe vagabonds tziggany. Their forry baggage was carried on horfes and affes. The arrival of fo many flrangers being reported to Mr. petroff solovoy, the vice go-
vernor;
158 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv.vernor; he fent for fome of the chief of the gang, and y^Z^^jdemanded whither they were going? they anfwered him, to china; upon which he told them, he could not permit them to proceed any farther eaftward, as they had no pafsport; and ordered them to return to the place whence they came. It feems thefe people had roamed, in fmall parties, during the fummer feafon, crofs the vaft countries between Poland and this place; fubfifting themfelves on what they could find, and on felling trinkets, and telling fortunes to the country people. But tobolsky, being the place of rendezvous, was the end of their long journey eaft-wards; and they, with no fmall regret, were obliged to turn their faces to the weft again.
Before I leave this new world, as it may be called, of Siberia, I think it well deferves a few general remarks; befides the particulars mentioned in my journal.
This vaft extent of eaftern continent is bounded by Russia to the weft; by great tartary to the fouth; on the eaft and north by the refpective oceans; its circumference is not eafy to afcertain. Foreigners commonly are terrified at the very name of Siberia, or si-bir as it is fometimes called; but, from what I have
faid
TO   PEKIN. I59 faid concerning it, I prefume ic will be granted, that chap.xiv. it is by no means fo bad as is generally imagined. On 17 21 • the contrary, the country is really excellent, and a-bounds with all things neceffary for the ufe of man and beaft.   There is no want of any thing, but people to cultivate a fruitful foil, well watered by many of the nobleft rivers in the world; and thefe ftored with variety of fuch fine fifh, as are feldom found in other countries.   As to fine woods, furnifhed with all forts of game and wild fowl, no country can exr ceed it.
Siberia is generally plain, fometimes varied with riling grounds; but contains no high mountains, and few hills, except towards the borders of china, where you find many pleafant hills and fruitful valleys.
Considering the extent of this country, and the many advantages it poflefles, I cannot help being of opinion, that it is fuificicnt to contain all the nations in Europe ; where they might enjoy a more comfortable life than many of them do at prefent. For my part, I think, that, had a perfon his liberty and a few friends, there are few places where he could fpend life more agreeably than in fome parts of Siberia.
Towards the north, indeed, the winter is long, and
extremely
160 A JOUR'NEY
chap.xiv. extremely cold. There are alfo many dreary waftes, and deep woods, terminated only by great rivers, or the ocean; but thefe I would leave to the prefent inhabitants, the honeft osteaks, and tonguses, and o-thers like them; where, free from ambition and avarice, they fpend their lives in peace and tranquillity. I am even perfuaded, that thefe poor people would not change their fituation, and manner of life, for the fin-eft climate, and all the riches of the eaft; for I have often heard them fay, that god, who had placed them in this country, knew what was beft for them, and they were fatisfied with their lot.
During our ftay at tobolsky, a meffenger arrived from court, with the glad tidings of peace being concluded between his Czariih Majefty and the crown of Sweden, after a deftructive war, which had raged a-bove twenty years. This was very agreeable news to every body, particularly to the officers who had remained fo long in captivity. The peace was proclaimed with firing of guns, and other rejoicings ufual on fuch occafions.
November 18 th, all the roads being now firm, and fit for fledges, we left tobolsky in a ftrong froft. As we returned by the fame road we went to the eaftward,
which
TO PEKIN. 161 which I have already defcribcd, I fhall not repeat the chap.xiv. particulars, but only name the towns through which l721-we palled, viz. tumeen, epantshin, verchaturia, and solikamsky. The weather being exceflively cold, we remained two days at this place. From thence we came to kay-gorod, then to klinoff; from which, inftead of going towards cazan, we proceeded flraight through the woods towards the town of nishna-novogorod, fituated at the conflux of the volga and ocka. This road is neareft, but very rough and narrow in many places, the country being overgrown with large tall woods, of different kinds, according to the nature of the foil. The principal inhabitants are the tzeremish, who afford but indifferent accommodation for travellers ; however, the people are very courteous and ho-fpitable. Among them are fcattered a few russ villages, and a very few russ towns of fmall note; for which reafon, I fhall only mention the names of fuch as lay in our road from klinoff to kusma-d ami an sko, (which laft place is fituated on the eaft bank of the river volga) viz. bistrltsky, a large village; orloff, a fmall town; yuriefsky, a village; kotelnitzy,afmall town; a village called tzorno-retzky; a large village called voskresensky; yaransky, a fmall town; tza-Vol. II. X revo-
162 A JOURNEY
chap.xiv.Revo-sanchvrsky, another fmall town; shumetrey, a ^T^1^village. Befides thefe, and fome others, we paiTed through many villages, inhabited by tzeremishian and tzoowashian tartars, to mention which would be too tedious. Thefe people, having deftroyed the woods about their villages, live much at their eafe, have plenty of corn and cattle, and great numbers of bee-hives, whereby they furnifh the markets with great quantities of honey and bees-wax. They alfo furnifhed us with changes of horfes, whenever we had occafion for them; but their tackling of harnefs, &c. is fo bad, that much time was loft in accommodating them to our heavy carriages; fo that we thought ourfelvcs happy when we met with Russian villages, which are far better provided in that refpect, and more accuftomed to travelling, than thofe poor people, who never go far from their own home.
After a tedious journey, we came out of the woods, to the volga,and travelled along upon the ice; which, in fome places, was not very firm. In the evening we reached nishna-novogorod ; where we ftaid fome days to refrefh ourfelves, and kept our Christmas with the commandant.
We proceeded again on the 28th, and, little material
TO    PEKIN. 1.63 rial happening, arrived fafe aC the capital city of mos-chap.xiv. co, on the 5 th day of January, 1722; where we found 1722t his Czariih Majefty, and all the court, who had lately arrived from st. Petersburg ; and preparations were making for grand lire-works, triumphal arches, and other marks of joy, on account of the peace. With which I lhall conclude my journal.
T THINK it will not be unacceptable to the reader, if I fubjoin a lift of the places and diftances between sr. Petersburg and pekin.   They are as follows.
It is to be noted, that the diftances between st. Petersburg and tobolsky in Siberia, are all meafured verfts; each verft being 500 russ fathoms, each fathom confiding of 7 feet English meafure; fo that a Russian verft meafures exactly i\66 \ yards.
Verfts. Verfts. From St. Petersburg Brought up 141
to Yefiiore 35   to Podberezwa 2 3
Toftinsky-Yam 23 Novogorod 22 Lubany 26       Bronitza 35
Chudova 32       Zaitfoflf 30
Spaskoy Polifte     25       Kriftitskom 31 To be carried up    141   To be carried over 282
X 2
Route from st. Petersburg to pekin continued.
Verfts. Verfts.
Brought over 2	82	Brought up 883
Yazhetbeetfach	39	to Selo-Sudogda 34
Zemnigorskom	23	Mofhkach 30
Edrovo	22	Selo-Dratfhevo 26
Kotelofsky	35	Murom               3 0
Vifhny-Volotftiok<	-36	Sclo-Monachovo   2 5
Vidropusko	33	Selo-Pagofty 20
Torfhoke	36	Selo-Bogoroditzky 39
Medna	33	Nifhna Novogorod 28
Tweer	28	Zyminka              2 5
Gorodna	31	Selo-Tatintza       31
Zavidova	27	Belozerika 35
Klinn	27	Fokina 29
Peftika	30	Selo-Sumkach 34
Tfhorny Graz	24	Kofma-Damiansko 20
City of Mofco	28	Bolfhoy Rutky      10
Novo-Derevenoy	27	Kumea 50
Bunkovo	26	Shumetrey 30
Kyrzatsky	29	Zarevo-Santzursky 30
Lipnach	28	Potavinoy-Vrague 4 7
Undola	*7	Yaranskey 20
V olodimer	22	Selo-Voskrefensky 34
To be carried up    8 8 3  To be carried over 1528
Route from st. petersb	
Verfts.	
Brought over 1528	
Tfhorna-Retzka	47
Kotelnizy	46
Yuriofsky	20
OrlofF	26
Selo-Biftritz	21
Klinoff	3°
Slobodsky	28
Selo-Prokofiefsky	3°
Selo-Solovetzkoy	33
Troitska-monafte-	
ry.	22
Kruco-Gorsky	25
Katharinsky-mona	
ftery	25
Tikofsky	35
Leonsky	25
Kay-Gorod	35
Reka Volva	34
Korifh Retska Be-	
refofsky	25
Selo Yfinofsky	-12
To be carried up 2065
kg to pekin continued.
Verfts.
Brought up 2065
to Zezefsky 15
Selo-Koifinsky 36
Logginoff 3 2
Selo-Syrinsky 28
Nikonoff 2 5 Town of Sollikam-
sky 30
Marcinskoy 2 5
Yanvey 3 5
Molczanoff 3 5
From Moltzanoff to Verkaturia are five ftages, making 181 thence to Saldin-
skaya Pogoftia 27 Maggnevoy 46
Fominoy 28
Babichinoy 5 3
Turinsky 53
Slattkoy 50
Selo-Roihdefvinskyyo To be carried over 2815
Route from st. Petersburg fa pekin continued.
Verfts. Verfts.
Brought over 2815 Brought up 2978
Tumeen.             51 Backfarino 34
Sofihovoy            46* Sheftakovo 26
Pokrofska-Slaboda 31 Dechterevo 39
Iskinskoy             35 City of Tobolsky 43
To be carried up 2978 312o
From St. Petersburg to Mofco 734 From Mofco to Kufma-Damiansko 564
From Kufma-Damiansko to Zarevo-Santzursky 120 From Zarevo-Santzursky to Sollikamsky 81 3
From Sollikamsky to Tobolsky 888
3119
It will be obferved, that, in our journey outwards to china, we went by cazan ; which muft make the diftance, we travelled, between st. Petersburg and tobolsky, more than the above, (which is the fhorteft road,) by, at leaft, 200 verfts.
The
Route from st. Petersburg to pekin continued. The route continued from tobolsky, eaftward, down the river irtish, and up the rivers oby and keat, by water.
From Tobolsky Verfts. to   Samariofsky-Yamm 570
the town of Surgute 262
the town of Narim 500
the town of Makofsky, up the river Keat 1480
by land, to Yenifeysky 92
to Elimsky, along the river Tongusky 627
to Irkutsky 450
crofs the Baykall lake, to Selinginsky 304
to Saratzine, the boundary between Ruftia and China, 104
to the river Tola 467
to the wall of China, crofs the
Hungry Stepp, or Defert,       1212
to the city of Pekin 200 From Tobolsky to Pekin £448 From St. Petersburg to Tobolsky 3119
9567 N.B. The
Route from st. Petersburg to pekin.
N. B. The verfts between tobolsky and pekin are Computed, which generally exceed the meafured verft.
It will be noted, that the route above-recited is that by which we returned from china.
JOUR-
JOURNAL
of the
RESIDENCE
0 f
MR   D E LANGE,
AGENT OF HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY OF ALL THE RUSSIAS,
PETER THE F I S R T»
at the
COURT OF PEKIN,
DURING THE YEARS 1721, & 1722.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, printed at leyden by ABRAHAM KALLEWIER,
i n mdccxxvi.
Vol. II.
Y
TRANSLATION
of the
r
EDITOR'S PREFACE
to the
READER.
np*HIS Journal is a very curious and an au then tick piece, and certainly merits the attention of the publick, as well for its ufe as the novelty of the fub-jeer, it treats of.
As the world is not fo fufficiently informed of what palfes in thofe diftant countries, as to form a tolerable judgment of what the court of Russia may have to do with that of china, I am now about to give a fuccincT: relation thereof to the reader, that it may ferve him as an introduction to the work.
It is now well known, that the frontiers of Siberia are contiguous to thofe of china; for this reafon, it is natural to think, that the court of Russia fhould have more frequent correfpondence with that of china, than any other court of europe. Neverthclefs, this correfpondence, between the two courts, is of no ancient date; as it did not commence but fince the
Y  2 mongall
TRANSLATION OF THE
mongall tartars made themfelves mailers of china, about the year 1640; for it was about that time that the Russians, after being pofferfed of Siberia from the latter end of the fixteenth century, began to fpread themfelves over that vaft country, not having met with the leaf! refiftance from the ancient inhabitants of thofe parts; till, at laft, they came to eftablilh themfelves about the lake baykall, and the river a-moor, thereby becoming near neighbours to the mongall tartars; by intercourfe with them the Russians foon came to underftand, that their nation had poffef-fed themfelves of china; and that it was the Prince who was actually their Chan, who filled, at that time,, the throne of china.
The court of Russia was not ignorant of the ex^-treme opulence of the empire of china; and, apprized that the diftance from Siberia could not be great, re-folved to try if they could not draw fome advantages from that difcovery, by eftabliftiing a regular commerce between Siberia and china; promifing themfelves no lefs, than to draw into russia, from that empire, a great part of its riches. For this purpofe, the court of Russia fent, fucceffively, feveral ambafladors, or envoys, to china; who fucceeded fo well, that the
CHINESE
E D I T O R'S PREFACE. Chinese, at length, contented to the entry of the caravans into their dominions, from Siberia, on conditions very advantageous to Russia,
During thefe tranfactions, the Russians daily gained ground, on the frontiers of the mongall tartars; and even made no fcruple, when they thought lit, of eftabliihing themfelves on their territories, with a de-fign to approach on one fide, along the river amoor, towards the oriental fea; and on the other fide, along the river selinga, towards the frontiers of china.
In the mean time, the new government of china was not long of comprehending, that all thefe new^ fettlements, which the Russians made upon the fronj tiers of the mongalls, would, in time, render their power too formidable to the fubjects of china; and might come at laft to be very dangerous to the re-pofe of china itfelf, in cafe any mifunderftandings between the two nations fhould arife. On thefe confi-derations, they refolved to oppofe fcttlement to fettle-ment; and to build fome towns, and villages on the frontiers of the mongall tartars, at fome diftance from the laft fettlements of the Russians; in order thereby to prevent their penetrating further into the
country^
TRANSLATION OF THE country, to the prejudice of the tartar fubjects of
china,.,
In confequence of this refolution, the Chinese built, about the year 1670, the towns of mergeen and naun, and the borough of xixigan, with feveral other boroughs, and villages thereabouts; which they peopled with colonies of mongalls, fubjects of china.
Thence arofe difputes between the two empires, on the fubject of their frontiers.   And in place of the negotiations being confined to affairs of commerce, and mutual proteftations of amity and friendfhip, on one fide and the other; the grand object of all their aims, came now to be the accommodation of the affair of the frontiers, and the regulation of limits between the two empires.  But in as much as one would preferve to themfelves the right of doing as they thought fit; and the other would, at all hazards, keep them from doing what they thought dangerous; there arofe a great coolnefs between them; which came to blows in the years 1684 and 1685. It is true that they laboured inceffantly, both on the one fide and on the other, for a reeftablilhment of good harmony between the two nations; to this end there were held two different congreffes, at the town of nerchinsky, between
the
EDITOR'S PREFACE, the plenipotentiaries of Russia, and thofe of china. But thofe gentlemen met with fo many difficulties, in reconciling their different fentiments and interefls, that they were obliged to feparate without fuccefs. At laft, f. gerbillon, a Jefuit, returned again to the town of nerchinsky, in quality of plenipotentiary of the court of china*, and there, in 1680, figned a treaty of peace, and perpetual alliance, between the two empires; which was afterwards ratified, in the ufual forms, by both the courts.
That treaty was not very advantageous to the Russians ; becaufe it fet bounds to their eftablifhments on thefe frontiers, which was a very difagreeable article. And as they believed the Chinese would not regard it very ftrictly, provided they did not advance further on the fide of the selinga, and the towns they had lately built to the fouthward of the frontiers; the Russians again began to make new fettlements along the river amoor; and, at laft, to build along the fouth bank of that river, thirty leagues beyond their limits, a town they called albazin; in hopes that the Chinese could not be without Siberian furs, and would rather chufe to wink at thefe enterprifes, than enter into a new war.  But they were quite miftaken in their
calcula-
TRANSLATION OF THE calculation; for the mongalls furnifhed fuch quantities of furs to china, from the time they had orders from the Chan to fpread themfelves along the banks of the amoor, that the Chinese began to perceive that they could be fufficiently fupplied with furs, without thofe from Siberia. And in thefe fentiments they fpoke freely their thoughts of thefe new enterprifes of
the russians.
In the mean time, the Russians gave them good words, and fair promifes; but continued to carry on their point, flattering themfelves, that they might find fome favourable opportunity of pacifying them. Ne-verthelefs, the Chinese growing doubtful of the Russians complying with their demands, which they thought well founded, at length, had recourfe to force; and, in the year 171 5, made the mongalls, fubjects to china, take arms, and laid liege to the town of albazin, the place which was the principal ground of their complaints. This fiege continued three years; and as the late peter the great was occupied in his grand de-figns to the weftward, he would not continue the quarrel with china. Thus they let the town fall into the hands of the mongalls; and agreed to a new pro villoma! treaty with the court of pekin. But as other differences
EDITOR'S PREFACE, ferences, on the frontiers, ftill fubfifted, the court of russia fent again, in 1719, an envoy extraordinary to pekin, to regulate entirely what remained to be ad-jufted between the two empires; and feeing, that by means of thefe differences, the commerce of the caravans was much leffened, the true object of his negotiation was to re-eftabliih that commerce; and, to that end, to try to induce the court of china to confent to the refidence of an agent, from russia, at the court of pekin, who might take care to watch over the affairs of the caravan, and fo preferve a good underftand-ing between the two empires. The envoy of russia, having happily executed the laft part of his commiffi-on, left, at his departure from pekin, Mr. de lange, as agent of russia at the court of pekin, who was the author of the following journal.
The publick is obliged for this tract to a foreign mi-nifter, who refided many years at the court of russia; and who permitted it to be communicated to the publick. But, to make the reading of it more agreeable, and more ufeful to the world, it was thought fit to add fome little remarks in the places which required elucidation; that nothing might be wanting to the reader on fo interefting a fubject.
Vol. II. Z JOUR-
)
JOURNAL
179
march.
O   F l72U Mr.   D E   LANGE, &c.
J^/JR# de ismayloff, ambafTador and envoy extraordinary of his Czarifh Majefty, having fixed his departure from pekin to be on the id of March, after having finifhed his negotiations at the court of china in the beft manner he poffibly could I took the refo-lution of accompanying him to the wall of china; but the gentlemen of the miniflry thought proper to refufe me a paffport; pretending, that, as I was ordered by his Czarifh Majefty to refide at the court of the Chan -(-, it was neccffiry that I fhould have permiftion of the Bogdoi-Chan himfelf; not only for going as far as the grand wall, but alfo, for every time that I would go to flay a night without the walls of pekin; to the
* Mr.de ismayloff, a gentleman of       f Ail the tartars give to their rcign-
great merit, and a captain in the regiment ing princes the title of Chan; and, as the
of the preobraschinsky guards, was fent, houfe, which at prefent fills the throne of
in the year 1719, by the late Emperor pe- china, is come from that branch of Pagan
ter the Great, to china, with the cha- tartars, known to us by the name of
rafter of ambaffador and envoy extraordi- oriental mongalls, the Emperors of
nary, to renew the treaties between russia china conform themfelves to the eftablifh-
and china; and to endeavour to bring the ed cuftom of their nation; prefcrving, to
court of pekin to agree to a regulated free this time, the title of Chan.    Vide Hiji.
■'■ommercc with russia. Getiealog, ch-s tart are s»
Z 2 intent,
180 JOURNAL OF
march, icteric, that the court might always be allured that no 1721. HI accident mould happen to me, being a foreigner'1'. Vw/^V"Vw;And, as the BogdoiChan had already quitted his refi-dence of pekin, to take the diverfion of hunting, it was not without a good deal of trouble that I obtained per minion to accompany Mr. de ismayloff as far as czampinsa, which is a town 60 ly jji diftant from pekin, from whence I returned, being efcorted by a clerk of the council for the affairs of the mongalls, and fome foldiers; and thus came back to pekin on the 6 th.
The 7th, early in the morning, I faw enter the courtyard of my houfe a man who had the appearance of a poor beggar; he brought with him fome poor ftarved fowls, and faked cabbage, together with fome pots of taralfun, which is a fermented liquor, made of grain,, and what the Chinese drink inflead of wine, making ic. warm before they drink it.   This man, having fet it
* Mr. de i s-mavloff, at his departure their court, on pretence that it was contrary,
from PEKIN, left, by virtue of his inftrucli- to the fundamental conlKtutions of the em-
Ons, .Mr. de lange, in quality of agent piie; yet the faid ambaffador knew fo well
of russia, to treat of, and bring to a how to take his mcafures, that the Bogdoi-
condufion, a regulation of commerce, and Chan gave his confsnt to it, notwithstanding
the eftabJifhment of an eafy correfpondence,. all the intrigues of the minifhy to the con-
btiwecD the two empires; and although the trary.
Chinese miniitry oppofed, mod Arena* f One ly of china is cxaclly 360 geo-
wfly, the rchdence of the faid agent at metrical paces.
' all
Mr.   DE LANGE. all clown in my court-yard, was returning; when I ordered him to be called back, to inform me of the meaning of his fo doing.   Upon which he told me, That it was part of the provifions he had bought for " me, by order of the college who have the charge " of the Emperor's magazines of provifions; but, that " not being able to bring all at once, he was going to " fetch the reft."   Whereupon, being informed by him what his occupation was, I understood, " That he had " made a contract, with the faid college, to furnifh me, " every nine days, with a certain quantity of provifions* " for my houfe." Upon which I ordered him to take e-very thing away that he faid he had bought for me;• and to bring no more to my houfe, till I mould receive previous information, from the council for foreign affairs, how much I was daily to receive by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, and through whole hands I was to receive them.
Whereupon I fent to let the Mandarins (who were appointed to propofe to the council what might regard me) know what had occurred with this man, who* came, in the above-manner, to bring me provifions on the part of the Bogdoi-Chan; and, alfo, that I fhould» always mo ft refpeftfully receive whatever the Bogdoi-Chan^
march. Chan, from his friendfhip for his Czarifh Majefty, 17 21 • fhould order for my fubfiftence, in cafe it was fent me in a proper manner; at the fame time, defiring them to acquaint me with the particulars of what the court had ordered for my fubfiftence. Whereupon thofe gentlemen fent me the following anfwer, " That I fhould re-" ceive the fame allowance which I had received before, " during the refidence of the envoy extraordinary at " this court; and that they had already made an agree-¥ ment to deliver my allowance regularly." I repre-fented to them thereupon, " That I never had any fe-" parate allowance during the refidence of his cxcel-" lency the envoy at PEKIN, having had the honour of " eating always at the fame table with him; that, for " this rcafon, I could now receive nothing, until I mould " know precifcly wherein it was to confift; and that, " after I fhould know what the allowance was to be, I " fhould defire them to pay me the amount of the * fame in money, which they were to pay to the pur-" veyor." Thefe gentlemen were not wanting in letting me know, " That I ought not fo nicely to examine " what the Bogdoi-Chan, without any obligation, had " ordered to be given me, out of his mere grace. But I affured them, in ftrong terms, in my turn, " That I
" abfo-
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 183 " abfolutely would receive nothing on thefe terms; for march, " I was very doubtful whether the Bogdoi-Chan was 1721. " informed, that fuch a perfon was trufled with the dif^^^^"-* " pofition of what allowance he was pleafed to order " for me."   This refolution much difcompofed the gentlemen Mandarins, who had reckoned on fupply-ing their own tables with my provifions; but, feeing how difficult it was to obtain their ends on this occafion, they at laft delivered to me the following fpeci-fication, and faid it was what the Bogdoi-Chan had ordered for my allowance, viz. per day,
1 fifth. 2 oz. of butter.
1 fheep. 2 oz. of lamp-oil.
1 pot of taraffun. ^ gin falted cabbage
1 fowl. 2 fmall meafures of rice.
1 bowl of milk. 1 5 gin of wood.
2 oz. of tea.
To my interpreter per day,
1 oz. of tea. 2 fmall meafures of rice, £ gin of flower.              8 gin of wood, and
2 oz. of butter. Every 9 days a fheep. 2 oz. of lamp-oil.
To every one of my domefticks per day, 1 ^gin of beef. 1 meafure of rice.
1 oz, of fait* 5 gin of wood, To
184 J O U R N A L   O F
march. ^° a dragoon who was left behind, by the envoy, at 1721.     pekin, upon account of fome tapeftries they were L/"V^V>'   working for his Czarifh Majefty, %
1 meafure of rice. 2 oz. of lamp-oil.
1 oz. of tea. 5 gin of wood, and
$ gin of flower. Every o days a fheep. S
2 oz. of butter.
By laen you are to underftand ounces; and by gin> pounds.
Upon delivering this fpecification, the Mandarins acquainted me, " That, as they were obliged to buy " the fifh, the fowls, the fheep, and the milk, for my " provifions, with ready money, I might receive the " value of thofe things in money; but, in regard to the " other articles, I muft content myfelf to receive them, " in kind, from the Chan s magazines *•
Upon which I allured them, " I fhould make no " objection, provided they did it in a decent manner, " and not by unknown people that marched ofT as foon
* The Emperor of china receives the their falary; fo that all the gold and filver,
greateft part of the tribute of his fubjecls, that comes into the treafury of the Chan,
in the country, in provifions and manufac- arifes from the tribute of the cities, the
tures ol the growth of the feveral provin- duties inwards and outwards, the tolls of
ces; which are afterwards difhibuted, in paffengcrs, the mines of gold and filver,
kind, to all perfons in the fervice of this and fines or confifcations; all which toge-
nionarchy, and reckoned to them as part of ther amount, every year, to immenfe fums.
" as
Mr, DE LANGE, 185 '« as they had thrown it down in my court-yard, as march. « they had once done." At the fame time I demanded 17 21 • of them, " Whether I could ftill have the Chan's hor-" fes, to make ufe of when I mould have occafion, as I " had during the refidence of the envoy extraordinary." They anfwered me thereupon, M That I might certain-" ly have the Chan's horfes always; but then, as the " ftables of the Chan were at a confiderable diftance, " it was necefTary for me always to acquaint them of " my intentions, the day before I intended to ride out; " upon fuch notice, they would take care that the hor-" fes fhould always be ready at my quarters, very early " in the morning*." To avoid this inconvenience, and to avoid the being obliged to let them know every day where I would go, I took the refolution to buy fix horfes, and to keep them at my own expence, though forage was very dear at pekin. The guard that had been placed upon the envoy s quarters, during the time of his ftay at pekin, under the command of a,brigadier, remained ftill on the fame footing after his departure, as did the two Mandarins of the 37th orderf,
* At pi-kin they always make vifits in f Every man appointed to any publick town on horfe-back. But the Princes of the charge, or dignity,in china, from the high-blood, and the grand Mandarines, are gene- eft to the loweft, is called by the name of rally carried in litters on thefe occafions, at- Mandarin ; whence it comes that there arc tended with a numerous train of domellicks. many orders, which are all diftinguifhed.
Vol. II. A a together
march, together with a clerk, to receive from me whatever I 1721 * fhould have to propofe. whether by word of mouth, or by writing; and to make their report to the council of foreign affairs; and this appeared to me a very good omen.
The 9th, the brigadier of the guard of my quarters let me know, that the Bogdoi-Chan would return from hunting the next day; and that if I was defirous to go to meet him, he would give orders, that the Mandarins mould be ready to efcort me, with a guard of horfe, for the fecurity of my perfon.
The 1 oth, I mounted on horfe-back, very early, to go to meet the Chan. When his majefty faw me, he called me to him, and asked me H If I did not repine " to be alone in a foreign empire, fo far from Europe?" he further asked, " If I was well? and if I was content-" ed?" Upon which, having with a profound reverence thanked his majefty for my gracious reception, I af-fured him, " That I found myfelf perfectly well; and I " could not but be well content with having the ho-" nour of refiding at the court of fo grand a monarch."
one from the other, by difference of habits, mediately known of what order he is; be-
charatfcrs, and figures, which are embroi- caufe every Mandarin is forbid to appear in
dered or fewed on their habits 5 in fo much, publick without the habit of his order, un-
tlut, upon feeing a Mandarin, it may be im- der pain of the mod rigorous penalties.
After
Mr.   D E   L A N G E. 187 After which his majefty, having difmiifed me, was car- march. ried in his litter to pekin, followed by a very nume- I721* rous court.*
The 1 ith, 12 th, and 13 th, I notified to the Mandarins, folicitors in my affairs, " That, having feveral " things to get made for the Emperor, my mafter, I " fhould have great occafion for the money which di-" vers merchants of pekin were owing to the commif-" fary gusaitnikoff, who had been lately at pekin " with the caravan of Siberia^; and I craved their af-" fiftance to facilitate the recovery of thofe fums, fee-* ing the debtors had engaged themfelves, before the " envoy extraordinary, to pay me the fame immediatc-11 ly after his departure." The Mandarins explained themfelves very favourably thereupon; but our debtors, having got notice of it, retired into the country; which
* The Emperor of china might be then pcror had confined his two cldeft Tons in a
in his 69th lunar year; but he was ftill very clofe prifon, fome years before his death,
well difpofed in body and mind, and was upon fome alledged attempts to rebel, true
looked upon as a monarch of fupcrior pene- or falfe, and declared them excluded from
tration and genius. The fathers Jufuits, mif- fucceeding to the empire.  Neverthelcfs their
fionaries in china, had great influence with brother fet them at liberty, Immediately up-
him; and he ufually confulted them on ail on his acceifion to the empire, and heaped
affairs of importance. He mounted the throne favours on them, to mike them forget the
anno 1662, aged eight years, and died in lofs of their right, which he poflcffed. September 1722. \ They give the title of Commiffary to
The Prince, his 3d fon, who already thofe who have the ditetfion of the cara>
commanded the armies of the empire, fuc- vans, which come from Siberia to pekin
ceeded to the empire; for die deceafed Km- to trade.
A a 2 obliged
188 JOURNAL OF
march, obliged me to leave this affair to another opportunity. 1721.     rj^e l   1   tjie Borrdoi-Chan went to czchan-
zchumnienne, which is a houfe of pleafure belonging to his majefty, 1 2 ly weftward of pekin, where he frequently makes his refidence.   But having obferved, in his patting, that the triumphal arches, and other like ornaments, which are raifed on his birth-day, on both fides of the grand road, paved with fquare flat ftones, that reaches from pekin to czchan-zchumnienne, were not of the ufual magnificence, all the miniftry were difgraced for many weeks.   Upon which the mi-nifters, having inftantly ordered the demolition of all that had been built, caufed to be built up anew, from the palace of the Emperor at pekin quite to czchan-zchumienne, a great number of triumphal arches, and of moft magnificent columns, of an exquifite tafte, all embellifhed with gildings, and feftoons of all forts of rich filks of moft lively figures and colours. At the fame time, in feveral places, they erected theatres of great beauty; where the moft able comedians exerted their talents, in reprefenting the moft difficult and curious parts of their profeilions; accompanied with the grand-eft concerts of mufick, both vocal and inftrumental, diverfificd with the amufements of dancing, and feats
of
Mr.   DE   LANGE. iSo of uncommon agility.   All thefe entertainments be- march. ing prepared, the minifters went in a body to the im- l72lm perial palace, fupplicated the monarch on their knees, with their faces proftrate to the ground, that he would be pleafed to admit them to his good graces; and that he would be pleafed to fend fome, in whom he could confide, to examine their new ftructures*.   But the Bogdoi-Chan ordered them to be told, " That he " would fee nothing of what they had done, and that l- he would never celebrate his birth-day at pekin " more; for that he was as much Emperor of china " at czchan-zchumnienne, as he fhould be though " fitting on the imperial throne at pekinf."
The 17th, I defired the Mandarins, folicitors for my affairs, to come to me upon bufmefs that regarded the council. Upon which they fent me word, that one of them being ill, the other dared not to meddle
* The honours which they pay to the well knew, that, in their hearts, they bore
Emperors of china approach even to ado- the tartar, yoke very impatiently. Never-
ration ; all thofe who have audience of him, thelefs, fince the fevere executions he orde-
being obliged to proftrate themfelves three red in the beginning of his reign, he feldom
times before him, from v/hich none are ex- punifhed with death thegreat ch ine se Man-
empted, not even ambaffadors, or other fo- darins, who fell into difgrace, contenting
reign minifters; Mr. de ismayloff, not- himfelf with condemning them to pay exor-
witliftanding his quality, being obliged to go bitant pecuniary fines; which incapacitated
through that ceremony, as well as all others." them from doing any thing againft his au-
f The deceafed Emperor of china held thority, whatever defire they might have fo
the great lords of china very cheap; for he to do.
in
190 JOURNAL OF
march, in matters that regarded the council, without the par-ticipation of his comrade. This obliged me to wait the recovery of the fick Mandarin, and till I could fee them both together.
The 18 th, 19th, and 20th, I was willing to avail myfelf of the opportunity the ficknefs of one of my Mandarins gave me, to make fome vifits to merchants of my acquaintance, and to the Fathers Jefuits, hoping thereby to induce them to return my vifits, and give me opportunity of knowing fomething of the commerce of this empire. But I found that they all received my vifit with very forced civilities, and great referve; particularly the merchants, who endeavoured to appear much occupied about other important affairs; fo that feeing it very difficult to bring them into my views, in the prefent conjuncture, I thought it beft to poftpone thefe forts of vifits to a more proper time. But they, not doubting that fuch a reception would occafion my making many reflections, let me know, by a third hand, " That my vifits fhould be always " moft agreeable to them, and that they wifhed, with " all their hearts, to divert me every day better than " the cuftom of their country permitted them; and f" likewife, on occafion, to come and fee me, were it
*' not
Mr. D E LANGE. 191 " not for fear of the foldiers, who followed me every march. » where, which prevented them. For in cafe t^eyvJZ^\j " ihould not place the foldiers in the fame chamber ** with themfelves and me, and entertain them with " every thing to their liking, they were capable of ac-" cufing them of having a clandeftine commerce, of " great importance, with me, or other fufpicious ne-" gotiations, which would not fail of coding them con-" liderable fums of money, and poifibly might prove " their entire ruin*/' It is true, the Fathers Jefuits, could not alledge fuch fears of the foldiers of my guard as the merchants; their belonging to the court put them on quite another footing than the ordinary rank of people were upon; but they pretended, that, as they were foreigners, they were obliged to act with great caution, in order to prevent fufpicionf. This
* The Princes of the houfe of the tar.- late Bogdoi-Chan found it ncceffary, in or-
tars, who at prefent reign in china, have dcr to augment their number, to make a law,
learned, at the expence of their predeceffors, whereby all the tartar mongalls, men,
that they ought not to depend too much on or women, who fiiould marry with chi-
the fidelity of the Chinese; for this rea- nese, were obliged to bring up their chil-
fon, all the military of the empire is, in a dren according to the cuftoms of the mon-
manner, compofed of mongall tartars, galls, and to teach them the mongalls
who, on that account, enjoy confiderable pri- language; and, that by means of this precau-
vilcges; which makes them very infolent and tion, all thofe children fhould be deemed na-
almoft infupportable to the Chinese. And ruralized mongalls, and enjoy the piivi-
as the number of thefe tartars were not leges of native mongalls. deemed fufficient to curb the Chinese, con-        f This was but an excufe of the Jefuits,
lidding the vaft extent of the empire, the to prevent die vifits of Mr. de lange, whofe
did
192 JOURNAL OF
march, did not fur prize me at all, in regard to a nation, the 17 21 • genius of which I already had a tolerable knowledge of. The affairs I had to manage were of a very difficult nature; and in all countries the entering properly into fuch ought to be the principal care; but I, neverthe-lefs, flattered myfelf that this unpromifing afpecl:, at my entering on my functions, would take a more favourable turn, as foon as the Bogdoi-Chan fhould receive the credentials I had from the Emperor, my mafler.
The 2 2d, my Mandarins came together to fee me, and to know what I had to propofe to the council; upon which I requefted them
" i. To-put the Allegamba, or prefident of the " council for foreign affairs, in mind, in my name, that they had let my credentials, from the Emperor my " mafter, remain in my hands beyond the ufual time; " and that I waited, through his hands, the order of " the Bodgoi-Chan, to appoint when he would pleafe " to receive them.
" 2. To acquaint the prefident, that I had refolved 61 to hire a houfe for myfelf, near the quarters of the
refiding at pekin could not be very agree-    of his empire, and would fuffer no other ro-
able to them ; as it was to act in the affairs of   man catholic miffionaries, but the ca--
a monarch who had turned all the Jefuits out    pu c h i»s, to rcfide in his dominions.
v
" russi-
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 193 " Russians, againft the arrival of the caravan; to the march. " end that the faid quarters might be repaired, which,  17 21 • " from age, were gone to ruin, and might be entirely ^^"^ " beat down by the approaching rainy feafon; that, un-* lefs this reparation be made, the commiffary would " not know where to lodge on his arrival at pekin, ex-*' cept he would run risk of having the merchandifes " damaged.
" 3. To demand, forme, a paffport, with the ne-" ceiTary efcort, for fome baggage, left at pekin dur-" ing the time of the ambaffade, which I wanted to " fend, out of hand, to selinginsky The faid baggage was fome raw (ilk which I had bought on account of Mr. nicolai christizy, with cafti and effects that he had left in my hands f.
The anfwer, which I received immediately after from thofe gentlemen, contained in fubftance, u That " the Emperor himfelf having allotted that houfe for
* Selinginsky is the laft fortrefs, be- that is fown or planted there thrives ex-longing to russia, towards the north-weft cecdingly,
©f china.   This town is in the country        \ Through all russia they ufe hard-
of the mongalls, upon the eaft fide of ly any other filk but that of china, which
the river selinga, 30 days journey from is undoubtedly the beft in the world; it
pekin, in lat. 51. 30. The climate of se- being certain, that two pounds of Chinese
lincinsky is very mild, and the country fdk will go as far in manufacturing as three
about it very pleafant.  The mongall pounds of cither Persian or Italian
tartars did not accuftom themfelves to fdk. the cultivation of ground, yet every tiling
Vol. II. B b "my
Zc>4 JOURNAL OF
march. 4< roy quarters, no perfon would readily infinuate to 1721. " him that I was not fatisfied with it; and that, with-*I-/"V~>V~;" out a fpecial licence from him, no perfon in all pe-*- kin, were it even the imperial Prince himfelf, would 44 dare to let me a lodging, feeing it would thereby " look as if the Bogdoi-Chan had not an inhabitable* Si houfe for a foreigner." To which I replied, " That I " made no doubt of fo great a monarch's having; hou-" fes enough for lodging as many foreigners as he " pleafed ; but, that I was well perfuaded, when the " Bogdoi-Chan fhould be informed of the condition " that houfe was in, he would not oblige me to inha-" bit it longer. Befides, that it was acting contrary to* " the common right, allowed by all the world, to re*
* drain a perfon, in a publick character, from hiring a *• lodging, with his own money, which might be com-
* modiousfor him, without a previous application to " the Emperor himfelf." They anfwered me thereupon    That the ufages in Europe were not practifed
by them j and, as all the countries in the world had c> their particular cuftoms, china had hers, which " would not be altered on any confideration whatever." They alfo told me plainly, " That they could not write u w the council on this fubjeel:, for that they knew of
- - .     " a
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 195 u a certainty, that no perfon durft make the propofiti- march. « on to the Emperor."  Upon which having told them, 172 1 • " That, as the cafe was fo, I muft fubmit to remain V*/"V"N,J " there, till the impoffLbility of abiding longer may " force me to have recourfe to other meafures." They, of themfelves, propofed to me, u That the Chan " might be petitioned to .allot me other quarters, with-" out aliedging that my prefent quarters were in fo mi-ferable a condition."  But feeing I did not pretend to go out, but becaufe it was in fuch a ruinous ftate, they perfifted in faying, it was impoffible for them to make the propofal to his Majefty on that footing.
The 23d, the aforefaid Mandarins came again to me to acquaint me,(t That the prefident would confuit " the other members of the council upon my creden-•< tial letters, and would put the Emperor in remem-c! brance, when occafion ihould offer. But, concerning " the fending away the baggage, I muft have patience " till after the Emperor's birth-day, feeing the prepara-" tions for its celebration fo fully employed every body, " that nothing elfe was attended to, though of ever fo " great confequence."
Bb 2 APRIL.
JOURNAL OF APRIL.
The ift of this month, the Aloy, or mafter of the ceremonies of the Chan, invited me, by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to come to czchan-zchumnienne. Upon which I went there inftantly. I was no fooner arrived,, but I fent to notify the fame to the laid Aloy, and forthwith went to his apartment. I underftood from him, that the Bogdoi-Chan had an intention to have admitted me that day to an audience, but that other affairs had unexpectedly interveened; he had ordered him to deliver to me a piece of the tapeftry which they were at work upon for the Czar, in order that I might fend it to russia by an exprefs, and acquaint the Czar, that what pieces remained to be made fhould be ready in three months **. I laid hold of this opportunity of the paflports and convoy neccflary for the piece of tapeftry, to requeft of this gentleman, " That he would *' be fo good as to manage it fo, as that, when his Ma-" jefty fhould give order for the paflport and convoy '• for the piece of tapeftry, I fhould, at the fame time, s% be furnilhcd with paflports for the baggage above-
* The tapeftry of c 11 i n a is generally    are not adjuflcd to furnilhing of rooms, Hade of PatlO, embroidered with large fi-    unlefs befpoke on purpofe, or compofed of gurej of gold <>pd filk ; the colours very    many different pieces. Uight, b'Ai the defigns cot correct j they
*' menu-
Mr.   D E   LANGE. icyy <; mentioned, which I had to forward ; and that he APRiLw " would pleafe to be at the trouble of informing him- 1721. " felf, when his Majefty would be pleafed to receive^v^° " my letters of credence from the Czar, with which I " was charged."   Whereupon the Aloy defired me to remain at his lodgings, whilft he went to make the pro-pofal to the Emperor; and, at his return, he acquainted me, " That his Majefty would, out of hand, give " orders to the council, that they fhould furnilh me " with the paflports and convoy neceffiry, as well for " the tapeftry as the baggage I wanted to fend; but that " it could not be till after the birth day."  That as to the letters of credence, he did not lind it proper to* mention it to the Emperor, it appearing to him that his Majefty frequently thought of me, and would not forget my letters of credence \; and gave me, in fome
f The late Emperor of china, not- fuch birds were in their country; and now vmhftanding his great age^ bad fo extraor- anfwering, No, the Emperor asked him why dinary a memory, till a little time before his he did not tell him the truth; and, if he death, that a flemish jesutt, who is yet did not remember, that, at fuch a time, he at p e k 1 n, recounted to one in the retinue told him there were fuch birds in their coun-of Mr. de ismaylo-ff, that, above 20 try; upon which the father j f. s u i t de-years ago, this monarch having fliown him a clared, that he had been fo long out of his wood-picker, asked him if there were fuch own country, that he really did not know birds in their country ; and, having an- whether there was or not.   The Emperor; fwcred yes, he asked itsnamein flemish; was very merry upon the Jesuit's having; that, fome time after the arrival of Mr. de forgot his mother-tongue;  and told him-»smayloff, the Emperor, having eaft his the bird's name in flemis.h. «ye on fuch a bird, asked him then, alfo, if.
meafurc;.
april. nieafure, an afTurance that the Chan would not long 17 21. defer the receiving it.  And then he made his excufes
,*w/"v~>s^that he could not longer wait on me, being obliged in-ftantly co return to the court.
The 2d, according to cuftom, the birth-day of his Majefty fhould have been celebrated, with the utmoft magnificence, at czchan-zchumnienne ;  but, inaf-much as his Majefty was ftill difpleafed with his minifters, he only received the ordinary compliments on that occafion, without any other ceremony; after which every body retired to their own houfes.   I had, among others, the honour of paying my compliments to his Majefty on that occafion.   That which appeared, to me, moft worthy of obfervation, at that time, was 3000 old men, the youngeft of which was above 60 years old; which, by exprefs order of the Emperor, had been brought, to pek in, from all the provinces of the empire.   They were all drefTed in yellow, which is the colour of the imperial liveries, and marched, in parade, to czchan-zchumnienne, where they ranged themfelves in the court of the caftle, and had the honour of making their compliments to the Emperor; after which his Majefty diftributed to every one, without diftincri-on, 4 laen of filver, and fent them home.
The
M Km   D E   LAN G K. lyy
The fame day, the parfon of the church of st. ni- april. colas at pekin * prefented me with a memorial of 1721. fome debts which he had owing him, by diverfe per-1^7^^ fons of that city, on account of the dcceafed Archimandrite ; praying my affiftance in the affair.
The 3d, having received, from the council, the ne-ceffary paflport for the courier I was to difpatch with the piece of tapeftry, I difpatched him, the fame dayr under the efcort of a Chinese courier.
The 8th, fome unknown people, having entered my houfe, told me, by my interpreter, " That they had " bought for me a certain number of fheep; but, if I " would not receive them in kind, they were ready to " pay me half a laen of filver for every fheep." I returned them in the fame manner I did the former, letting them know, " That fome perfon of the college,. " which had the direction of the Emperor's magazines-
of provifions, muft come to me to ihow me thofe
* Thofe of the gref,k religion have the head uncovered ;   no women appear
but one church at pekin; but the roman there, having a feparate apartment in the
catholics have three churches very mag- churches.   The late Emperor favoured the
nificently built, where there refort, on Sun- worfhip of the romish church to fuch a
days and Holidays, a number of people of degree, that he ordered that all the fons of
all conditions, the roman catholic Mandarins, who made their ftudies under the
religion being tolerated there; but it is direction of the jesuits, mould be obli-
remarkable, that the men do not uncover ged to go, all Sundays and Holidays, to
their heads during divine fervice, becaufe it their churches ; which gave great uneftimelB
mark of infamy, among them, to have to the. chine se Bonzes.
H who*
april. " wno were to bring me provifions."  They attempted 17 2 i. ftill, on feveral occafions, to bring in wood and other ^^^^provifions, in the fame way, to my houfe, without my being able to know who they were, or who fent them.
The 11 th, I received the pafsport for the baggage of Mr. nicolai christizy, which I difpatched two days after from pekin, under the efcort of a Chinese courier. The prefident of the council letting me know, at the fame time, " That I ought not to fend ma-" ny of thofe expeditions, as long as the new treaty of " commerce, between the two empires, was unratified " in the accuftomed forms; feeing it was not under-" flood, that they confented to a continual pafTage, by " fmall caravans; which I myfelf fufficiently knew the " reafons for, having affifted at all the conferences held " on that fubject."
The i 3 th, 1 learned that the Bogdoi-Chan was about to fet out inftantly for ieccholl, which is a town newly built, with a magnificent caftle, without the great wall 440 ly, or two days by poft, eaftward of pekin, where he ufually paries the fine feafon of the fummer in hunting, and other country diverfions. \ The 14th, I mounted on horfe-back to go to the prefident of the council; being arrived at the gate, the - , guard
Mr,   D E   LANG E. aoi guard made me wait till they had acquainted him of april. my being there; immediately after which he fent one 1721. of his fervants to inform himfelf " Whether I came^7^^0 " purely on a vifit, or had occafion to fpcak to him " about bufinefs; and, that in cafe I came about bufl-" nefs, that I fhould communicate the fame to his fer-** vant, that he might inform his mafter of the fub-" ject of it."   I made my compliments to the prefident by the meflenger, and told him, " That I came to pay " a vifit to his mafter; but as to the bufinefs I came u about, that concerned the mafter not the fervant." After which the fame fervant returning, told me, " That I would be welcome to his mafter*." Whereupon, entering into the court-yard, the prefident came out of his apartment to receive me; and having taken me by the hand, after fome reciprocal compliments, he led me into an open faloon, where we fat down together, and were ferved with tea and milk, according to the Chinese manner.   After fome time, I defir-cd that he would put the Bogdoi-Chan in remembrance, that I had letters to prefent to him from the Czar, my mafter; and that I fhould be very glad to
; * In china, when they go to fee a Man- to put on the habit peculiar to his order; darin, of what order foever, upon bufinefs upon failure whereof, lie is amerced in large regarding his office, the Mandarin is obliged fines.
:  Vol. II. C c know
april. know if he would be pleafed to receive them before 17 21 • his departure. He anfwered me thereupon as the ma-V-/"V"VJfter of ceremonies had done before, " That his Ma-" jefty was well informed of it, and would know him* " felf when he would have time to receive them, with-" out being put in mind of it; and that, if we fhould " put his Majefty in remembrance of it, that would " look as if he or I wanted to prefcribe the time of do-" ing it to his Majefty." I fought, by all ways pofTible, to engage him one way or other in this affair, but all in vain j and I was obliged to hold this for an anfwer j after which he added, " That if his Majefty had refolv-" ed not to receive my letter of credence, he would not have confented to my refiding at his court, in quality " of agent; and that Mr. deiSMAYL off having fufficient-" ly explained the reafons of my flay in pekin, thefe " letters could contain nothing very pre fling." Upon which I replied to him, " That in Europe the monarchs " were not accuftomed, when the Czar wrote letters to " them, to let fuch a length of time pafs without re-" ceiving them; nor take it amifs, from their minifters, " if they put them in mind of fuch important affairs; H that I never expected fuch an anfwer in china; but " yet, as it was what I could not remedy, I muft bear
" ic
Mr.   D E   L A N G E. 203 S ic patiently, till fuch time as his Majefty was difpofed april. " to receive them." 1721.
The 16th, I mounted again on horfeback to go toV"^v^°' fee the Alegada, or firft minifter, in hopes of getting a refolution more favourable to my affair, than I got from the prefident of the council.   Being arrived at his houfe, I was indeed admitted to come into his courtyard; but, as I had no defire to go into the rooms of his fervants, I was obliged to remain in the court till they notified to him my being there.  He, like the o-ther, fent a fervant to me, to inform himfelf of the reafon of my coming.   To whom I fignified, that I wanted the honour of feeing him, and of acquainting him with an affair which I did not think proper to explain to a fervant.   The fame fervant returned very foon to me, faying, " My mafter thanks you, Sir, for " the trouble you have given yourfelf; he is very well, "but it is not convenient for him to fee you."
The 17th, I was again in his neighbourhood; and having fent my interpreter to him to ask permiilion to fee him for a moment; he fent me word, that it was impoftible, becaufe he was that inftant going to his Majefty; and that he did not know when he Ihould have time to fpeakwith me.   Whereupon, feeing this was
C c 2 z&
april. an affair that could not be forced, I refolved to let it 1721. ly dormant for fome time.
The 19th, I went to fee a German Father Jefuit; who, being an old acquaintance, and a friend of mine from my firft journey to china, made no fcruple of telling me, that many of the principal Mandarins of china much difapproved of the Chans confenting to my -remaining at pekin*. But that as there was no perfon, in all the empire, that was bold enough to dare contradicr. the will of the Emperor, unlefs they would expofe themfelves to very great danger, it was very probable they would, by degrees, accuftom themfelves to my being there)*. He faid to me, alfo, that he had frequently fent his fervant to me with his compliments; but that the guard at my door had as often turned him back, as a perfon who had no bufinefs at my houfe. Neverthelefs, he did not think they would have been
* The Chinese regard their ancient order to keep the cm in esk quiet, occafion-
laws and cuiloms as faciei! and inviolable; edfuch a dread in all the Chinese, that the
and it is not to be wondered at, that they, grcateft lords of the empire could not ap-
with great reluctance, furfur the refidence of proach his perfon without fear and tremb-
a russjan agent at pekin; as it is directly ling,   Neverthelefs, this monarch was far
contrary to the fundamental constitutions of from being a tyrant, in reality; for he was
the empire; which abfolutely forbid the CHI • a true lover of jufticc, and (pared the blood
nese to go out of the empire, and the ad- ' of his fubjecls as much as pofliblc.  He had
million of foreigners to an abode in it. forbid, under the moft fevere penalties, the
f The frequent executions which the putting a criminal to death, for what crime
late Emperor of china was obliged to caufe foever, unlefs he fiiould confirm and fign the
to be made, in the early part of his reign, in fentence of death with his own hand.
fo
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 205 fo untraceable, if he would have given them a piece of april. money.   He moll: ftrongly enjoined to take no notice 1721'. of what he told me; for he would by no means appearV-/^~^J in this affair, it was fufficient that I was informed by him, in order to take my meafures thereupon when occafion offered.
• There are at pekin a great number of fmall merchants, or rather pedlars, who, as foon as they hear of any foreigners being arrived from russia, or other parts, bring to their quarters all forts of merchandife, which they get partly from the brokers, and partly from other houfes of different forts of people, who may have any goods which they would be willing to difpofe of; and it is often better to deal with thefe pedlars, for all forts of curiofities, and for made filks, than with the fhop-keepers; for which reafon I bid fome of thefe people bring to my houfe, from time to time, what they fhould light upon mod curious, in its kind* whether in rich filks, or jewels, or other goods of value, to the end that I might acquire a competent knowledge of all the forts of merchandife to be got in this city. Upon which they reprefented to me, that I might well believe that they fought nothing more than to gain a little money, it being their trade; and of confe-
quence
april. querice they would not fail of doing as I defired them, 1721. if my houfe was occupied by different perfons; becaufe ^^^^what goods were not liked by one might find a buyer in another, and fo they might probably always fellfome-thing; but as I alone occupied the houfe, and had fuch a numerous guard at the gate, they did not know how to do it; becaufe, before they were permitted to enter nay houfe, they were obliged to agree with the foldiers of the guard, how much they were to pay them on their going out; and, whether they fold any thing or not, they were equally obliged to pay the money they
agreed to for the permiffion of entry. .....
The 20th, I fend to demand of the Mandarins, who had the care of my affairs, " If it was with their know-" ledge that the foldiers of;the guard that were at my h gate, did not permit any perfon to enter my houfe % without their giving them money? They, in anfwer, let me know, " That they knew nothing of the matter; " but they would not fail to make inquiry, and if they " found, that the foldiers, through ignorance, had done " fuch a thing, they would put things in better order ** for the future." And I found that they had fpoke to the officers of the guard, who told them, " They had " Uriel: orders to guard this houfe, and take particular
" care
Mr.  D E   LANGE. 207 " eare that the common people, who are generally very april. « infolent, mould not find means of coming into the 1721. " courc-yard to Ileal any thing; and as they were to beV~/"V"N^ " anfwerable, they were obliged to ufe the precautions " neceffary, to this effect."  They came to report this to me, as an unanfwerable argument.  But I affured them, that whenever the guard admitted people to enter my houfe, during the day-time, I would not make them anfwerable for any robbery that might happen at my houfe; for that I had a fufficient number of my own fervants to drive out of my court-yard any perfons who mould dare to come there without having bufinefs.
It mud be obferved, on this occafion, that the Chinese have the cuftom of explaining themfelves but once on one propofal; and, having once given an anfwer upon a matter, whatfoever it be, they always hold themfelves upon this anfwer, as an infallible argument; fo that if you turn an affair into twenty different lights, to convince them, by one means or other, of their error, or to make them alter their fentiments, it is all loft trouble; they firmly holding by their firft word. And it is a general rule with the Chinese, high and low, in all they have to do with foreigners; in fo much
that
april. tnat every time a propofal is made to them, which 1721. their intereft or vanity may incline them not to ap-prove, it may be certainly depended upon, that, after infinite difputes, you will be obliged to receive the firft words, which they pronounced in the beginning, for an anfwer, be it agreeable or difagreeable.
The 2 1 ft, I fpoke with the brigadier of my guard about this affair, who is a perfon generally efteemed by all the people of merit in the empire; fome years paft, he had filled the greateft pofts of the ftate, but was difgraced, and made brigadier on account of the bad conduct of his brother. I can truly fay, this is the moft worthy man I have known in china, full of honour, reafon, and probity; and the Fathers Jefuits agreed with me, that there was not his equal in all this great empire. He difapproved very much the conduct of the officers and foldiers of my guard; but he repre-fented to me, at the fame time, " That having precife " orders from the Emperor, that all forts of the lower " people fhould be prevented from entering or leaving " my houfe at their pleafure, to the end that no infult " might be offered me; he could not avoid giving the " fame orders to the officers of my guard; but to pre-" vent the abufe of his orders, for time to come, he
11 would
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 209 " would come regularly twice a-week to my quarters, april. " to have an eye on their behaviour."  Which gave me 172 1. opportunities of making a particular friendfhip with "^^^ him; but neither mine, nor all the threats which the brigadier gave to the officers and foldiers on this head, nor the rigorous treatment he made them feel on feveral occaflons, could get the better of the infatiable a-varice of thefe military people, who look upon it as their right to exact contributions of thofe who trade with foreigners. In fhort, it would have become infup-portable to me, to be at the mercy of the chicanes that this pretended guard of honour fludied to vex me with every day, if I had not had the hope that my credential letters would be very foon received; and that I ihould then be able to do my affairs with more fads-faction.
The 23d, my interpreter having met one of our debtors, he put him in mind of the promifes he had made to Mr. de ismayloff; and allured him, that, if he^leferred fatisfying me, he fhould be arretted, feeing this affair would not allow of more prolongation. Upon which he promifed to come to me, in two or three days, with his comrades, and to endeavour, to the ut-moft of his power, not to come empty handed.
Vol. II. Dd The
april. The 26th, two of thefe debtors came to my houfe 1721. with a Chinese merchant who was their fecurity; they ^^^told me that one of their partners, named dzchun-dzchan, who was indebted to us in 1400 laen of fine filver, died the year before. But, as I was apprifed that three of them were firmly bound in fuch cafe, one for the other, which they could not themfelves gainfay, this fum muft be brought to the account of the furvi-vors. Of thefe two debtors which came to my houfe, the one, named dzchin-borche, was ftill in arrear 700 laen, according to what my interpreter faid, but he ac* knowledged no more than 650 laen; the other, called dzchin-sanga, was to deliver 340 thun of kitaika * on the arrival of the next caravan at peicin, and this by virtue of an obligation which he had given to the commiflary cusaitnicoff, payable to him, or order. I told them, " That though I had not in my hands " the obligation he had given to Mr. cusaitni-" coff, that need not hinder their paying the debt " to me, if not all at once, at leaft, by little and lit-" tie, according as their abilities would enable them, " feeing this money was to come into the trcafury
* A fort of glazed cotton, calendered and fmoothed, which they make in china, of all forts of colours, whereof they fell great quantities through all die northern Asia.
« of
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 2ll u of his Czarifh Majefty, and that, as foon as they ^pril. " paid the whole, I would give them an obligation of .1721. " indemnity, which would make their obligations to gusaitmcoff of no value \.   Upon which they replied, " That they could not object to this expedient, " and that conformable to their promifes to the envoy * extraordinary, to give me entire fatisfaction there-" upon, they would not fail to do it, fo as I fhould re-" ceive part of their debts before the end of the w month." Thefe promifes continued, from day to day, without any part of them being fulfilled; and as I knew, by my own experience, that there are no where worfe pay mailers than in china, unlefs they can be compelled by force, I was obliged to fall on other methods.
MAY.
The 1 ft, I delivered to my Mandarins two memorials on the fubject of thofe debts, and the debts of the parfon of st. Nicholas, defiring they would prefent them to the council, and communicate to me the an-
f The commerce between russia and treaty, they can fend no more than one ca-
China is, at prefent, a monopoly belong- ravan a-year, from Siberia to pekin,
ing to the treafury of s 1 11 e r i a ; no o- which doth not confift of more than 200
ther fubjects of russia being to concern pcrfons ; inftcad of 1 000 and more, which
themfelves in it, on pain of death , un- they amonntcd to heretofore, and which were
lefs employed by the crown, and for ac- fubfiftcd at the charge of the Chan of cm-
count of the crown; though it is often e- na, whilfl they were on the territories of
vaded by connivance of the Weywodcs on china; but now they are to fubiift upon
the frontier places.   By virtue of the laft their own charges.
D d 2 fwer
may. ^wer which they fhould receive on them. The fame 1721. day my Mandarins put into my hands 82 laen and 26
v**/"v~>s~;fun of fine filver; faying, " That his Majefty had or-" dered this fum to be paid me for the value of the " fheep, fifh, fowls, and milk, for two months paft; and " for the time to come, every 9 days, a clerk from the " imperial treafury would bring me 12 laen and 37 " fun, in payment for the faid provifions ; and that the " other allowances, which I was to receive in kind, " fhould be like wife fent me by a clerk of the maga-" zines from whence they were taken."   So that all } fhould receive for my monthly allowance, in money and provifions, would amount, according to the current prices, to 48 laen; but they allowed me no forage for my horfes, which is a confiderable article at pekin, where forage is extremely dear.   After which, during the reft of this day, the weather was very bad, a great deal of rain, with mighty gufts of wind; the old houfe, where I was lodged, could no longer ftand the bad weather; all the wall of one fide of my chamber fell, about midnight, into the court-yard; which made me very apprehenfive for what remained.   I was obliged to retire into an adjoining chamber, to avoid, in fome meafure, the danger to which I found myfelf expofed; t as
Mr,   DE   LANGE. 21J
as this chamber, though a forry place, was very low T MAYa found myfelf in lefs danger; befides, it was nt>i quite 17214 fo old and infirm as the other.
The next day, rhe 2d of this month, I advertifcd my Mandarins of what had happened; praying them to caufe immediate reparation to be made, if not of the whole houfe, of that apartment where I lodged at lead. Whereupon they fent to allure me it fhould be done without lofs of time.
But, on the 4th, they changed their note; and let me know that they could do nothing in it before the departure of the Emperor, feeing the college, which had the care of the buildings, were fo much employed about the court, that they could give no attention to other affairs for the prefent. Whereupon I offered to repair it by people I would hire on my own expences. But they wanted to impofe upon me in the price. And the Mandarins protefled to me, that it was an affair that might be their utter ruin, if the Emperor fhould come to know that they had confented to my repairing, with my money, a houfe that belonged to him; but they allured me, they fhould fet to work upon it very foon.
The 8th, the Bogdoi-Chan departed for jeg.choll;
and,
may. anQ,> having the honour to attend him, on this occafi-1721. on, to 15 ly from pekin, his Majefty asked me, " If I
{*/~v^><J<* expected the caravan foon." I anfwered thereupon, " That I had not received any advices from the com-" miffary; but, neverthelefs, I computed that the cara-9 van might be at pekin in two months from that •* time." Whereupon he asked me, " If I would not 44 come and pafs the time, with the court, at jeg-" choll." I received fuch a gracious invitation with all due fubmiftion; promifing to come to pay my devoirs to his Majefty at jegcholl as foon as pofTible *. But, on my returning to pekin, the governor of the city let me know, " That I could not follow the Emperor, be-" fore his Majefty had fent the neceflary orders to him *' and the council to give me poft-horfes, and the ef-" cort of Mandarins, which I fhould have occafion for *' in this journey." In the mean time, I made feveral agreements, with diverfe perfons, for different forts of japanned ware, which his Czarifh Majefty wanted to have, which I could not get at the ufual price, becaufe
* The late Emperor of china was ex- he known, cither by his complexion, or fea-trcmely affable and gracious towards euro- tures, to be of tartar extraction ; it was peans, more cfpecially to thofe who ex- only to be obferved, that his cheek-bones, celled in any fcience. He was taller than under his eyes, were a little rifing and pro-wfuaJ for people of his country; and not to    minent, like the mongalls.
thofe
Mr,   DE   LANGE. 215 thofe who fupplied me with them, were obliged to give May. a great part of what they gained on them every day to 172 1. the foldiers of my guard, for the liberty of entering my houfe.
The 10th, my Mandarins being come to fee me, one of them took leave of me; being, as he told me, named by the court to go, in quality of envoy, to the Delay-Lama-|~; and the other gave me pofitive affu-rances, that, early the next morning, the workmen fhould begin to repair my quarters; and that they had already provided the materials neceflary for that pur-pofe. In regard to my two memorials, concerning the debts above mentioned, he gave me for anfwer, " That " the prefident would not receive them; not finding it " proper to meddle with fuch trifling things; as he " had before hand told Mr. de is may l off himfelf, " that the council would abfolutely not embarrafs them-" fclvcs with any affair of debts; that, neverthelefs, he " had ordered his Mandarin to prefs the debtors to " difcharge their debts, in cafe they were in a condi-" tion of paying fuch fums."
f The Delay-Lama is the fovereign pon- mortal.   He lives in a convent near the city
tif of the Kalmucks, mongals, and ma- of potala, in the kingdom of tangute,
ny other idolatrous nations north of tlie upon an high mountain, fouth of the deferts-
indie's.   He is adored as a god by all thefe of xamk, toward the frontiers of china.
people; and, by them, believed to be lm- Vide HiJi.Getitalog. da tartares.
The
2l6 JOURNAL OF
may. The 20th, my Mandarin coming, flopped at my 1721. gate, and having learned that my apartment remained
^■^^^ ftill in the fame condition, he fent one of his fervants to make his excufes to me, for not coming to fee me; alledging, that the great heat approaching at noon would, he feared, incommode him. But I caufed him to betold, for my whole anfwer, " That I did not under-" ftand fuch a compliment; and that I wifhed, with all 5* my heart, that, in time to come, he would difpenfe " with coming to my houfe at all." Upon this anfwer he thought fit to come himfelf to me, and to complain much of the negligence of the college, which had the care of the buildings, in not adverting to the repair of my houfe, notwithftanding he had wrote to them, feveral times, on the fubject, in the moft preffing terms. I demanded of him, " What he believed the Czar, my " mafter, would think of fuch ufage as he fhowed me; « and, if he was not afraid, that, in time, he might be " made refponfible for fuch treatment." But he, laughing, told me, " That there paffed many other " things with them, and of more importance than this " was, without daring to carry complaints to the Chan, « and he did not doubt but that it was the fame at * our court."  Neverthelefs the brigadier of my guard,
on
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 217 on being informed of the affair, went to the Manda- MAY. rins of that college, and threatened them with his go- 1721. ing himfelf to acquaint the Emperor, that, by their[^rv~^J negligence, they contributed to the diminution of his glory in foreign countries, if they did not, without further delay, caufe my houfe to be repaired the very next day.
The 25th, At length there came workmen to put my apartment into an habitable flate. The fame day. one of our debtors, named dzchin-sanga, brought me 50 thun of kitaika; but I faw no appearance of getting any thing from the others, they being very poor and indigent; and I perceived that the proceedings of our Mandarin, with them, tended more to get fome little prefents from them to himfelf, from time to time, than ferioufly to prefs them to the difcharge of, our debt.
In the months of June, July, and a part of Auguft, there paffed nothing material regarding me, either at the court, or with the miniflry; all thofe of any distinction being gone to partake of country diverfions. Wherefore, I fhall fill this vacation by a faithful report of the obfervations which I could make, during my flay at this court, as well myfelf, as by fome of my
Vol. II. E e friends
i-j2\. friends, of the prefent ftate of trade in the city of pe*
^/VX^kinj but I muft, at the fame time, acknowledge to the reader, that there is much wanting to make the obfer-vations fuch as they ought to be, and might have been if I had not been fo ftreightened, and if they had let me enjoy the means of informing myfelf thoroughly of things.
The people of korea, who are tributary to china, come twice a year to pekin, * viz. in the months of March and Auguft, to the number of 40 or 50 per-fons, as well to pay their tribute to the Emperor as to carry on their trade; which confifts principally in the following merchandifes.
A fort of large paper made of raw-filk, fomething like the large paper for wrapping up things in Europe. They make ufe of this paper in china, for windows, in place of glafs.
Paper, with gold or filver figures, for hanging their chambers.
* Korea is a peninfula, eaftward of the any commerce with Grangers. Neverthelefs,
jrand wall of china; it is contiguous, on they do not fail to come clandeftinely with
'the weft, to the province of leotanc of their goods, by the fea of japan, to the
china, and on the north to the eastern river amoor, and thence by the naunda
mongalls.   The Koreans are, from to the city naun, to traffick with the mon-
timc immemorial, tributaries of china, who calls, and indirectly with the Russians. treat them very hardly, not permitting them
All
Mr,   DE   iANGE, 219
All forts of large fans, of different famions. 1721.
Mats, very neat and fine, which they ufe in fummer in place of matrafles.
Cut tobacco, very fmall, for fmoking, much efleem-ed in china, and preferred to that of their own growth.
Stripped cotton-fluffs.
A fort of furs which the russes call chorky, and which they call colouk in Siberia; it is in great abundance in Korea; they fell a great deal of it in pekin.
A fort of dry-fifh, which they get from a certain large fhell-fifh in the fea of japan.
It is with thefe commodities that they trade; and although they may, in a manner, be confidered as the fame nation with the Chinese, and in fome degree their fubjecls, yet they do not enjoy the lead: liberty during their abode at pekin; all communication and converfation with foreigners being abfolutely forbidden them, and much reftricted with the Chinese themfelves; infomuch, that the Chinese are not lefs fufpi-cious of them, than of any other nation whatfoever. As they cannot make by their trade any thing to a confiderable amount, they generally bring with them to pekin large fums in filver, in Spanish pieces of eight,
E e 2 and
220 JOURNAL OF
ij2i, and in dutch dollars, which are looked upon, in chi-
OfVNjfTAj as inferior to the fine filver of china, which they call the Chan's filver, by 5, 6, or 7 p. cent, which fhows, that the inhabitants of korea. have fome trade with the iilands of japan, or, at leaff, with the iilands lying between japan and korea; although it is abfo-lutely forbid the inhabitants of that country to have the leaft communication, or commerce, with other nations, or to admit foreign fhips into their ports; having, for that end, a Mandarin always refiding in Korea, to have an eye on the proceedings of that nation. With this money they buy, at pekin, The fined: raw-filk.
A fort of damask, called by the russes goly, and by the Chinese couty-toanza, that is damask of korea \ becaufe, at firft, the Koreans alone bought that fort of damask.
A fort of ftuff mixed with filk, fit for linings, called
by the ciiinese fanfa. Tea and china-ware.
All forts of difhes of white copper, for houfhold ufe. Cotton.
They likewife buy the tails of fables, to border their caps and the collars of their robes.
It
Mr.   DE LANGE.
It is likely that they trade into other parts with the filk and damask, which they carry from pekin, feeing they take away much greater quantities than the con-fumption of their own country can require.
When there is no Russian caravan, nor any of that nation at pekin, they quarter thofe of korea in the habitation appointed for the russes; but when there are russes in this city they give the Koreans other quarters: for this reafon the Chinese call this houfe couty coanne, or magazine of the Koreans, when it is occupied by the Koreans; and urussa coanne, or magazine of the russes, when occupied by people of that nation.
When the Koreans, whether deputies from that country or merchants, arrive at pekin, there are two Mandarins forthwith named to go to their lodgings to obferve who goes in to them, or comes out from them; and to examine the caufe of their coming, and how they became acquainted with the Koreans: they like-wife place guards all around their quarters, to prevent any perfon from having private accefs to them. When any of this nation go abroad, upon any affair, the guard follows them every where, with large whips, to prevent any perfon from joining them in the flreet;
and
j y 21. and they dare not go to fee any perfon without permif-
^v^Iion of the guard.   As the inhabitants of korea are not ufed to ride on horfeback, and are afraid to mount a horfe, for fear of accidents, they give them a guard of infantry, who have no other arms, when they are in garrifon, than their whips.   Befides all thefe fteps, full of fufpicion, they fix, at their quarters, an edict of the court, fignifying, that all perfons whatfoever are forbid to enter their houfe without the knowledge of the Mandarin, deputed for that purpofe, who, after examining them as to what they have to do there, takes notice of their names, and fends a foldier into the houfe with them to obferve what pafles.   It is a very profitable commiflion for thofe Mandarins who are deputed to guard the Koreans; for they always farm the priviledge of trading with them to that company of Chinese merchants who offer the moft money for it, which fometimes amounts to a confiderable fum; and it is by no means permitted to any other merchants, befides the members of this company, to trade, for that time, with the Koreans.
The Chinese have not, in a manner, any trade with the indies, * excepting fome fmall dealings they may
* China is feparated from the country of the Great M0511I by fandy deferts, impaf-
have
Mr. DE LANGE. 223 have on the frontiers of the neighbouring dates; but it 1721. was impoffible for me to get to the knowledge of what ^VX>> thofe trades confiftedin; for, among a thoufand people of the inhabitants of pekin, it is rare to find one perfon who hath the leaft knowledge of any thing that palfes without its gates. It is true that the Chinese do carry on trade, fometimes at bengal, to the Philippine iflands, to batavia, and even to coa; but that is not brought about but by Health, by the connivance of the Mandarin governors of the fea ports, obtained by means of a round fum of money, without the knowledge of the court; befides, it is abfolutely forbid, to every fubject of the empire, to go into foreign parts, upon what occafion foever, without a permifTion, or an order, from the Emperor or the government*.
The bucharians come alfo to pekin, but without obferving any flated timesf.   They bring large round
fable for merchants; and the other provin- with their Chinese countrymen. They are
ces of India by mountains, are very diflicult eafily known by their long hair, which is na-
'to pafs; which in a manner hinders all com- tural to them ; initead of which the ch inese,
tnerce between thofe two empires. fubjedls to the tartars, are obliged, under
* The greateft part of the Chinese, pain of death, to cut their hair fliort, like
who are difperfed in feveral places of the the Kalmucks and mongalls, who have
east indies, for the fake of commerce, all their heads fhaven, except a tuft of hair
are the pofterity of thofe who left china on the top of their head, which they prefervc
"When the mongall tartars made them- of the natural length of their hair, felves maflers of that empire ; and they have        f There are two bucharias, the Great
bo other than clandestine communication and the Little. The great bucharia is
cornelians
224 J O U R N A L   O F
17 21. cornelians, of a very good colour, which they barter,
^W^with the Chinese, againft damasks, kitaika, tea, tobacco, ciiiNA-ware, and filver. They ftring thefe on fmall filken lines, in the manner of beads; and they are worn by Mandarins of the firft orders, when they appear at court, or in the colleges, in their habits of ceremony; wearing one row of them about their necks, which hangs down on their bellies. They bring alfo musk, rough diamonds, and many other forts of precious ftones; but, as I was informed, of no great value; becaufe it is rare to find, among the Chinese, any who will rifque the laying out a confiderable fum for a fine ftone.   The Chinese polifih thefe ftones, after their
fituated between p t r s i a and the country of the Grand Mogul, about the 40th degree of latitude; this is the country of the u s-beck tartars, who arc Mahometans, The little bitch Am A is fituated to the eaft of the Great, and extends to the frontiers of china, on the fide of the defert Kama, and kingdom of tibbt, which is their confine to the fouth ; this laft is fubject to the Kontayfha, grand Chan of the Kalmucks. The bucharians arc a particular nation, which have no connexion neither witli the Mahometan nor Pagan tartars, nor with any other people of thofe parts. They do not know themfelves whence they draw their origin. Neverthelefs, they jiiake profeffion of the Mahometan religion.
They occupy the towns of the two bu-CHARiAS, and only employ themfelves a-bout their commerce. Thofe of the great bucharia carry on their trade in the dominions of the Great Mogul, in rERSiA,and in siiiERiA., and are tributary to the Chan of the usbecks. Thofe of the little bucharia trade into china, into the kingdoms of tibht and tangut, and with the Kalmucks and mongalls their neighbours ; thefe laft pay tribute to the Kontayfha. The bucharians have many alliums and ceremonies, much like thofe of the j e ws, nor is their dialect, phyfiognomy, and fize much unlike them ; which may give occafion to many rcfleclions.
own
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 225 own fafhion, in order to make them proper for orna- 17 21. menting the heads of the fair fex. ^W/
I had no opportunity of being acquainted with any of this nation, not being allowed liberty fufficient for that end; and on their part, they dared not run the risk of coming to my houfe, for fear of the guard at my gate; fo that I cannot give an exact account concerning them.
They alfo bring to pekin gold-dull*, which the Chinese buy commonly at the price of 5, 6, to 7 laen of filver per laen of gold dull, becaufe it is unrefined; they aliure me that it is very fine when purified, and is then equal to the gold of the Chan.
Thefe tartars dwell in the provinces of chamill and turfan ft under the protection of the Emperor of
* The gold which the bucharians gold, in the pits which the torrents have bring to china comes from the high made in their pavTage, and barter them, mountains which feparate the dominions of with the bucharians, againft all forts of the Great Mogul from the grand tar- fmall things for which they may have occa-tary. All thefe mountains abound in rich lion in their way of life, mines, of all forts, but none of them are f The provinces of chamill and tur-wrought; neverthelefs they make very con- fan are fituated to the weft of the defert hderable gains annuslly, by the great quan- of xame, towards the 40th degree of Utilities of gold-duft which the mighty tor- tude. They make a part of the little rents, formed by the rains in the fpring, bucharia, and have been fubjeel hitherto along with the fnows melting, bring down to the Kontayfha Grand Chan of the kal-with them into the neighbouring valleys. mucks; but a few years fince the cin-For the inhabitants of thefe mountains, to- nese, joined by the mongalls, have gcther with the Kalmucks, who encamp poffeffed themfelves of it, after having driven with their cattle in the adjacent plains, out the Kalmucks. come afterwards to gather thefe grains of
Vol. II. F f CHINA,
2i& JOURNAL OF
j j2i. china, in confideration of a moderate tribute, which ^v^they pay him annually. In return they buy at pekin,.
Hides of russia to make boots.
Fox-skins, red and brown.
Squirrel-skins, white and grey.
Beaver skins.
Sables, and other furs.
Kitaika.
Cotton, like' the woolens of Europe, of which they ufe part themfelves, and fell part to the Kalmucks*, their neighbours; they alfo take
Tea.
Tobacco,   and of
The fmalleft chin a-ware; of all which in pretty large quantities.
Befides the goods I have above fpecified, I know of no others which they bring to pekin.
The molt valuable furniture of lackered ware, viz. cabinets, chairs, tables, baskets, and other things of
* The Kalmuck s occupy a great part they are, neverthelefs, defirous of living
of the northern asia; they are divided peaceably; contenting themfelves with the
into three principal branches, under one fo- fubfiltence which their cattle can afford
TCieign Chart, whom theycall theKontayfha; them, and do no harm to any, unlefs they
they have no fixed habitation, but always live are hurt by them; but, when once irritated,
in tents.   Though the Kalmucks are in- they become irreconcilable enemies. Their
difputably the bravell of the tartar s, isJigion is that of the Delay-Lama,
that
Mr. D E LANGE. that fort, as alfo the richeft porcelain-ware, come from japan *. For, when the Emperor fends any perfon to japan, in a public character, moil: of the princes and great men of the court feldom fail to engage him to bring them fome of thofe things at his return. Some times they find means to bring thefe things into china clandeftinely; but that is very feldom. This is the reafon that the commodities of japan are not always to be had at pekin, unlefs a man would pay an exorbitant price; neverthelefs they are found there fome times reafonably enough; becaufe feldom a year pafTes that the Emperor doth not amerce fome or other of the great lords in very confiderable fines, which obliges them to raife all the money they can on their moveables and immoveables; and whoever hath money lying by him doth, on thefe occafions, lay it out to great advantage, and buy the moft curious and valuable things for little money f.
# All merchandife of j a p a n is contra-        f It feems to be a favourite maxim,
band in china; which is the reafon they adopted in all the eaftern courts, to wink
cannot be brought into russia, with the at all the vile practices, and rapacious impo-
caravans from china, at lean: without very fitions, of the minifters; and, when they
great rifle.  The fmall quantity of japan have well plucked and drained the fubftance
goods, which are clandeftinely brought into of the people, the prince then fqueczes them
china, being kept very private, and paid dry for his own ufe. for at very dear rates by the Chinese themfelves.
F f 2 After
JOURNAL OF After the lackered ware of japan, that of the province of fokien is looked upon as the beft; but none of it comes to pekin, becaufe the great lords of china opprefs the merchants to a great degree, and take their goods from them, upon many frivolous pretences, without leaving them the leaft hopes of ever obtaining any payment. For this reafon, all merchants, and others of any lucrative trade, at pekin, have fallen into the cuftom of putting themfelves under the protection of fome one or other of the Princes of the blood, or other great lords, or minifters of the court; and, by this means, with the afftftance of a round fum of money, paid annually to their protectors-, they are able to gee clear of the extortions of the Mandarins, and fome times of thofe of the common foldi* ers. For, without fuch a powerful protection, a merchant muft be an undone man at pekin, where every one thinks they have an undoubted right to form pretentions upon a man that lives by trade. And, if any of them are fo imprudent as to attempt obtaining fatis-faclion, by the way of juftice, they fall from bad to worfej for the Mandarins of juftice, after having drained from them all they can, feldom foil of ordering the goods, taken from them unjuftly, to be brought to the
college
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 229 college; but he muft be a cunning fellow indeed, who 17 21. {hall be able ever to set them from thence. ^w^V^O-
They have, at pekin, a people dexterous enough ac lackering, but their works fall far hhort of thofe of japan and fokien ; which may be attributed to the. difference of climate; and it is for this reafon that the lackered work made at p e k 1 n is always much cheaper than the other. Neverthelefs, the lackered work made at pekin infinitely exceeds any work of that kind made in europe.
The fhips which arrive every year at canton, from
england,  france,  holland, denmark,  and Other
parts,generally bring the following forts of merchandife* Silver of different coins. All forts of fine cloth. Camblets. Woolen fluffs. Fine holland-linen. Standing clocks and watches, Looking-glafles of all fizes. Mathematical inftruments. Etwys from England. Pencils.
European paper of all forts.
Biffe-
17 21.       Different forts of milliner-wares L/"V"VJ      Some forts of European liquors, efpecially wine.
A good part of thofe merchandifes are diftributed, in prefents, among the Mandarins of the government of that city; of the reft, the European merchants generally make a very confiderable profit. They employ the filver thefe bring in purchafing diverfe forts of goods, by virtue of an agreement made before hand; they carry away with them from thence, Raw filk.
Damasks wrought according to draughts furnifti-
ed to them. Wrought filks. Lackered ware. Tea, green and bohea.
Badians, a feed having a tafte much like anifeed. Canes, and
Chin a-ware made according to models given them. They alfo fome times bring away gold, but very feldom, becaufe they generally get it cheaper in the indies. They alfo find at canton pretty valuable ftones, except diamonds, but not in any great quantities.
They make the beft filk-brocades of china, that are
brought
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 231 brought to europe, in the provinces of qjjoantunc 1-721. and fokien. vyW
The filver which they bring from Europe to canton is received at the fame rate as that brought from korea to pekin; and they have the advantage of buying their goods, at canton, from 30 to 40 per cent, cheaper than they could do at pekin.
The laft year there arrived at canton a French com-miliary, belonging to the new india company eftablifh* ed in p aris *, who obtained leave of the court to re-fide there for time to come; but, when he wanted to difpatch the hhip loaden with merchandife, he met with fo many obftacles at the cuftom-houfe, and from the government, doubtlefs, to draw more money from him, notwithstanding he had already made fuflicient prefents, that at length, defpairing to fee an end of thefe impofitions, he gave orders to the captain of the fhip to weigh anchor, and depart, in fpite of thofe people; which was done as he defired. But he was obliged, to avoid being very ill treated on this occafion, to take the Chinese habit, and to retire to a convent of Dominicans, at the diftance of 2 ly from cantonj; where
# The mi ssissipf company.
t There arc many roman catholic convents in china, which, in the time of the tate Emperor of china, had much the fame immunitits as die convents in europe en-
he
232 JOURNAL OF
1721. ne kept himfelf incognito, till fuch time as the
^VAJfrench jesuits, at pekin, had found means, by the force of prefents, to obtain liberty for him to appear openly, with two or three domefticks, and re-main there till the court mould otherwife direcl:; on the condition that he and his fervants fhould wear the Chinese habit. Neverthelefs I was afterwards informed, that the Mandarins of the government of canton let no opportunity efcape them of chagreening him; infomuch, that he found himfelf obliged to re-imbark, the firft opportunity that offered itfelf. They alfo had the laft year at canton, a frigate from ostend, bear-ing the Emperor of cermany's colours.
For the reft, they carry to china from europe,.and bring back from china, a very great variety of toys, and different forts of curiofities, upon which they make a very confiderable profit; but thefe are fo numerous that it is not poffible to furnifh a complete fpecification of them'.
In regard to our commerce with china, it is, at prefent, in a very languishing condition; and nothing in the world would bring more prejudice to our caravans,
joyed ; no perfon durfl enter but with the confent of the religious of the convent, unlefs by cxprefs order of the Emperor of china.
than
Mr. DE LANGE. 233 than the commerce which is carried on at urga*; 172i. for from this place there is brought, monthly, and e-^V^ ven weekly, to pekin, not only the fame forts of goods which our caravans bring, but of a better quality than thofe brought by our caravans; and in fo great quantities, that the merchandifes which the merchants of pekin, who go continually between pekin and urga, to trade with our people, and the goods which the lamas of the mongalls f bring from their parts, a-mount every year to four or five times as much value as the caravans that come to pekin in the name of his Czarifh Majefty. And I have been informed, by thofe who have been employed by the great men of pekin to buy their provifion of furs at urga, that there they can buy finer, and more valuable black fox-skins, than they have ever feen in our caravan. I muft add befides, that thefe great quantities of our mer-
* The camp of the Chan of the weftcrn ter RUSsiA-hides, and the coarfe woolen
mongalls, who are tributaries of china, cloth of Siberia, againft cattle ; but, as un-
is called urga. This Prince encamps on the der this pretext, they brought great quanti-
right of the river selinga, about 500 verfts ties of valuable furs, which they fold againft
fouth of selinginsky, towards the fron- the merchandifes of china ; this clandeftine
tiers of china ; and though he doth not al- commerce much injured the trade of the ca-
ways encamp in the fame place, yet he fel- ravans of Siberia.
dom quits this country without indilpenfable f The priefts of the weftern mongalls,
r<cceility.   By virtue of the laft convention and the Kalmucks, are called lamas; there
of the frontiers, the Russians of selin- are different orders. gin sky might freely come to urga to bar-
Vol. II. G g chandifes
2 |J4 JOURNAL OF
1721. cfrandilcs, brought from urga to pekin, do confider-
^^^^ably lower the prices; the merchants of pekin, and the lamas of the mongalls, who bring them to pekin, are always capable of affording them 4 or 5: per cent lower than the commiHary of the caravan can, of which the reader will be eafily convinced if he gives attention to what I am about to lay before him.
The russ merchants, and all other people, that come and go continually, between selinginsky and urga, buy their goods where they find it moft convenient; inftead of which the commiilary is obliged to receive thofe he brings with the caravan, out of his, Majelty's trcafury, from fworn apprifcrs of the treafu-ry, who often fet fo high a price on them that they find it diilicult to fell them for half the price valued at to them. Another advantage which thofe who no to trade to urga enjoy, is, that they make the journey thither in 10 or 12 days; and, beginning their traf-fick immediately on their arrival, they are ready to return in 2 or 3 days after;, in place of which, the com-miliary, after having been at confiderable cxpence, can, with difficulty enough, get to pekin in three months; and when he gets there, they keep him Ihut up 6 or 7 weeks, according to the maxims practifed by the Chinese
Mr. D E LANGE. 235 nese hitherto: in confequence whereof the abundance 1721. of merchandife of russia arrived at pekin obliges them u/"V>~> ftill to fpend feveral months in getting quit of theirs. And as by the laft treaty they are obliged to maintain themfelves, and all thofe belonging to the caravan, at their own proper expence, all thefe circumftances cannot fail of occafioning a very material difference in the balance of their trade. For, before they began to trade at urga, a caravan, how large foever, was all fold off in three months, at the prices fet by the commilTary himfelf. Moreover all the c h i n e s e, who traded at that time with us, became rich; inftead of which, all thofe who have traded with us fince that time, have traded . to their own lofs, and may be deemed at prefent quite ruined. The expences of a journey to urga are very trifling; for they can buy at selinginsky as much provifion for 1 o roubles as will ferve ten perfons for a month; in place of which, 10 roubles will hardly ferve them a week at pekin. Befides, thofe who go into ■china to trade are obliged to buy forage for their horfes, &c. in place of which, thofe who go to urga to trade put their horfes to grafs, without cofting them a farthing- The Chinese merchants, on their fide, who come to urga to trade, are likewife at much lefs
Gg 2 expence
236 JOURNAL OF
172 1. expence than the commiflary; becaufe they buy at pe^ ^/^^kin, and the towns through which they pafs, tea, tobacco, rice, and other grains, ordinary damasks, kitai-ka, and other like merchandife, at a very low price j which they barter, on the road with the mongalls, againft horfes, fheep, and in a word, all forts of cattle; infomuch, that as the private merchants make both their journey, out and home alfo, with infinite lefs expence than the commiflary of a caravan, it cannot be other-wife, than that they can buy and fell their merchandife on much better terms than a commiflary can, who is obliged to remain, with a number of attendants, in a city where living is fo dear, as ac pekin, a longer time than would ferve a merchant at selinginsky for making 4 or 5 journies to urga.   In fine, when the caravan returns to russia, they find, after fuch great expences, that the quantity of Chinese goods, brought to russia by private traders, is fo very large that they muft fell theirs at a. very moderate price.   All thefe circumftances well confidered, it is eafy to comprehend that, upon clofing the accounts of the caravan, the profits cannot, at this time, be much more than the disburfernents.   But to return to our journal.
AUGUST.
Mr,   DE   LANGE, Z37 AUGUST. august.
The 14th, I received a letter from commiffary istop- 17 2 1. NiKOFF, dated from the river TOLA*, 29th of July; by which he defired me to prevail on the council for the affairs of the mongalls^, to fend him an alignment for 2000 laen of filver upon the cultom-houfe of kal-channa j; offering to return the fame (for which he had pre/ling occafion, for the necefTities of the caravan,) as foon as he mould commence his trade at pekin ; and he added, that the fame favour had been formerly granted to commiiTary oskolkoff.
The 15th, I went to the council, and having fpoken of this affair with the Askinnamma, or vice-prefident, he promifed to confult the rcgifters of the council upon it, and to write directly about it to the prefident
# Tola is a river in the country of the mongalls, which comes from the edit, and enters the river orchon, about 250 verfts fouth-eafl of selinginsky. By virtue of the new regulation, the caravans of Siberia, who go to pekin, ought to enter on the territories belonging to china upon their pafling this river.
f The council for the affairs of the mongalls at pekin, is a college who have the care of every thing regarding the nation of the mongalls, as well thofe who are the hereditary fubjects of the Emperor of chi-«a, as, ulfo, thofe who are only under the
protection of this empire. This college, at the fame time, eaters indirectly into the cognizance of all the affairs which regard the powers who border on china, from the north-eaft to the weft; whence it comes, that they are the court who have moft to do of any in china.
Kalchanna is the firft Chinese city,, within the great wall, that you come to, in the road from selinginsky to pekin. It-is here that the duties, inwards and outwards, arc paid by the Russians ; and alfo for great part of the country of die mon-galls.
at
AUGUST.at JEgcholl, and that he would communicate his an-
1721. fwer to me. Vo/"v">^J The 17th, having fent my interpreter to the council to know if they had come to any refolution on this affair, he brought back the following anfwer, " That " they had indeed found, in the regifters, that the «' council had formerly advanced money to the com-" miliary; but that the trade was an object of fo little " confequence with them, that they did not think it " merited the council's being incommoded with pro-u pofals of that fort."
The 18th, a Mandarin came to me from the council, and notified to me, that his Majefty, calling to remembrance my being at pekin, had given orders to the council, that I fhould be efcorted to jegcholl by a Mandarin and fome of the military. Whereupon I anfwered him, that I would be ready the next day, with my interpreter and two domefticks, if they would take care to provide the relays, which I fhould want, for the journey.
The 19th, all being ready for the journey, I left pekin very early in the morning.
The 2 1 ft, I arrived at jegcholl, and repaired forthwith to the court; and having found the chamberlain
of
Mr. D E LANGE. 239 ©f die Chan, who is generally an eunuch'*, I prayedATJgust. him, according to the cuftom of the country, to in- 1721. form himfelf, on my behalf, of the health of the Bog-doi-Chan, and to inform his Majefty of my being there; upon which his Majefty did me the favour of fending to me a falver covered with all forts of new fruits, which were followed by another, charged with diverfe forts of meat from his kitchen; he ordered me to be told, at the fame time, that he fent me thofe for my refrelhment, and that I would do well to keep my chamber the reft of the day, to recover my fatigue from the journey. The fame evening fome of the Father Jefuits being come to fee me, told me, that the Alegada had refolved to propofe to the Emperor to make the caravan encamp in the defert, near kalchan-na, till the court fhould return to pekin; fuppofing that fo many of the court, and the greateft part of the people of diftinction, being in the country, there would be nothing to do for the caravan at pekin; and, that they believed, that he would not fail of requiring from me, an order to the commiffary for that purpofe. It
* All thofe who ferve in the chamber   than other eaftern people; but the mon-of the Emperor of china are eunuchs, and    galls, and generally all the tartars,-arc cither Chinese or mongalls ; the cm-    arc not very liable to this malady.. HI se nation being not lefs jealous of the fex
was
august. was eafy t0 fcCj tnat what determined the minifter to 1721. take this refolution, was nothing elfe but his appre-henfions that the prefents he expected to have from the commiflary, if he mould be at pekin at the time of his arrival, might, if he was abfent, fall into other hands. But, as this was a defign that might be attended with very bad confequences, and might have been the caufe of the lofs of men, as well as the horfes belonging to the caravan, by being expofed to the extremity of cold and famine in the deferts, I became obliged to ufe all my efforts to render this intention of the minifter abortive.
The 2 2d, being to go in the morning to court, the Emperor fent the mafter of ceremonies to require of me pafsports for fome Mandarins, which were to pafs the frontiers of russia; but, as I could well penetrate the grounds of their errand, I thought it my duty to refufe the pafsports demanded. Neverthelefs, notwith-ftanding all my excufes, which I could mufter up, to exempt me from giving them, the mafter of the ceremonies came to declare to me, in the cleareft terms, the next day, which was
The 23 d, " That the Emperor was, at one time, re-*' folved to fend thofe people away, whether I would
give
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 241 w give them pafsports or not; but that I ought to con-AUGUST# « fider, that, in fuch cafe, I might expect an abfolute 1721. " denial to every thing which I might have to propofe." ^Y^°' Which convinced me, that it was abfolutely neceflary for me, on this occafion, to conform to his Majefty s pleafure, if I would retain the leaft hopes of fucceeding in my defire of oppofing the defigns of the minifter. For this reafon,
On the 24th, when the mafter of the ceremonies came again to fpeak with me on this affair, I put into his hands a letter, addrefTed to the officers commandants on our frontiers, in the> form he defired to have it; to which I joined the condition, that our caravan fhould not be hindered from coming to pekin directly; and that our commiflary fhould, on his arrival at pekin, immediately be at liberty to begin his commerce, without being fhut up, for a certain time, as had at fome times been praclifed. The mafter of the ceremonies promifed to fpeak to his Majefty about it; who had not only the goodnefs to give his confent immediately, but he, at the fame time, gave ftrict orders to the prefident of the council, that he fhould take fpeci-al care that no perfon whatfoever fhould go about in
Vol. II. H h any
AUcusT.any manner to interrupt the commifTary in his bufi-1721. nefs.
v*/^v^>   The 25th, a Portuguese Father jesuit, called Father maurano, came to me, and told me, " That there " was a perfon of quality, who, by him, made me an " offer of 10,000 laen of filver, till the arrival of the " caravan, which I might employ in what manner I " thought proper; and that this lord was very much " fcandalized at the difobliging anfwer I had received " from the council of the direction of the affairs of the " mongalls, in regard to the 2000 laen of filver which *; I had required of them for the neceffities of the cara-" van." Upon which, preffing him to let me know who this lord might be, he told me," That he was indeed for-" bid to let me know who this perfon was; but that he " would neverthelefs, in confidence, own to me that it " was the 9th Prince, fon of the Chan, who made me " this offer      Thereupon I did not omit teftifying, to him, how much I was touched with the generofity of a Prince to whom I had never the honour of paying my devoirs; adding, " I fhould never forget the good-
* The late Emperor of china had i 7 were all very well proportioned, having fine princes born of his feveral wives and con- complexions, and black eyes, well formed, cubincs, There were three prefent at the without the leaft appearance of the deformi-fjrft audience of Mr. de jsmaylqff, who   tics of the mongall nation.
" will
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 245 " will which his highnefs was pleafed to {how me onAUGUST# " this occafion; and that I mould, all the days of my 1721. » life, retain the fame fentiments as if I had received v-/"v"x-; " his generous offers/'  But the Father jesuit having remonftrated, " That the Prince might poffibly think " himfelf offended if I mould refufe his offer altoge-M ther;" I was obliged to accept of 1000 laen of filver *.
The 26th, I paid a vifit to the Father jesuits of the French nationf; where I found the prefident of the council, who let me know, by the mouth of thefe Fathers, " That he was come from receiving the Em-u peror's orders, which were fo favourable to our com-" merce, that there is no inftance of the like liberty
* There is an appearance as if this was audience of Mr. dc ismayloff, the Em-
a fnare laid for Mr.de lange, to render peror, being feated on the throne, had, on
him fufpecTed by the Emperor of c h i n a, his left, as the place of honour, at three pa-
who, in the defign which he had then form- ces diftance, a little advanced into the hall,
ed of leaving the fucceffion to his third fon, three of the Princes his fons; and, on his
could not fail of taking umbrage at the leaft right, a little more advanced, the Jesuits
falfe (tcp which the agent of russia might belonging to the court; at live pacts behind
happen to take on this occafion,   which them, a little more advanced, were placed
rniglit induce this monarch to conlent to his feven mongall Princes of the imperial
being fent away; which was probably the houfe ; and then, on the two fides of the
whole aim of this intrigue. hall, the mimiters and grand Mandarins of
f The Jesuits had great afeendency the court; all fitting crofs legged, accord-on the late Emperor of c u i n a ; and, as ing to the manner of the tartars. By fo the prefent Emperor hath been under their remarkable a diftindliun it may, in fome de-hands, it ought not to be doubted but he is gree , be comprehended how much thefe likewife well nffected to them, whatever good fathers were in favour with the Ei»-may be reported to the contrary. At the firft peror.
H h 2 " hav-
244 JOURNAL OF
.august." having ever been granted before in china." I anfwered 172 i. him, through the help of thefe Fathers, " That I had v^y^^" no reafon to doubt of the punctual execution of his " Majeftys orders, fince he had the goodnefs to charge " the governor-general of pekin with them; of whofe *' indefatigable zeal for maintaining a good underftand-*• ing between the Bogdoi-Chan and the Czar, my ma-11 fler, was fufficiently known to me." Whereupon he caufed me to be told, " That he was not a man ca-" pable of receiving prefents from foreigners, for do-" ing them a fervice, as many others did in fuch cafes; " and that a flep of that kind would entirely prevent w him from ever having the liberty of fpeaking to his " Majefty again in favour of any perfon whatfoever, " fhould it come to his Majefty's ear; but that never-" thelefs, he believed he might referve to himfelf the " privilege, when he fhould come to our houfe to buy " any thing, of being treated more favourably than o-" thers in the price." Upon which I allured him, - That we fhould always know to treat him with proper di-" ftinction, in fuch a cafe."
The fame day, I defircd the mafter of the ceremonies to make my moft humble acknowledgements to his Majefty, for the gracious reception which he had
been
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 245 been pleafed to honour me with, during my ftay at jeg-august^ choll; and to pray his permifTIon for my returning to 1721. pekin ; becaufe I apprehended the caravan would foon'v/>v^> arrive there.  He came, fome hours after, and informed me that his Majefty intended, the laft day of thisr month, to go upon a party of hunting, in the defert, fome leagues from jegcholl; and that I might lay hold of that opportunity of taking leave of his Majefty, and of returning to pekin; he added, that his Majefty had likeways ordered the governor of pekin to go thither, and deliver to me the tapeftries he had caufed to be made for the Czar.
During the reft of my ftay at jegcholl, my table was furnifhed daily, the fame as the firft: day of my arrival, from his Majefty's kitchen. And they fhowed me all the buildings and gardens of this charming place, which is certainly worthy to be the delight of fo grand a monarch; and is infinitely fuperior, in beauty and magnificence, to the palace at pekin or czchan-
zchumnienne.
The J 1 ft, I had the honour of attending his Majefty when he parted from jegcholl ; and, on this occafion, he had the goodnefs to ask me, " If I enjoyed my " health."  After having anfwered with all the refpect
due
246 JOURNAL OF
august, due to fo gracious an inquiry, he faid to me further, 1721. " That he thought he obferved fome alteration in my v-/"v~^-;" countenance, and that I ought to take care of my " health." After which he gave me permifTion to return to pekin, after having, by the mafter of the ceremonies, let me know, that, if the caravan had not been fo nigh, I ihould have had the honour of accompanying him to the party of hunting *.
SEPTEMBER. The 3d, I was returned from my jegcholl journey, being three days on the road.
The 7th, I fent my interpreter to kalchanna, to the commifTary, with 1500 laen of filver.
The 10th, I acquainted my Mandarin, that, as the caravan was at hand, it was moft neceiTary that the houfe Ihould be repaired, that I might not continue under apprehenfions of the merchandife being damaged, for want of fufficient cover, during the rainy autumnal feafon.   But he continually refufed me the Ji-
* Hunting is the favourite employment the army, confiiling of 50 or 60,000 men cf the tartar. Pagans. And one may ga- completely armed, and generally travelling ther the inclination of the tartars from 100 leagues in this manner, this monarch the pleafure and aOiduity with which the thereby inured his com tiers and his troops • late Emperor of chin a followed the ch ace ; to the ufe of arms, and to fatigues; and neverthelefs he mixed much of the politician prevented their falling into the foft and in-with his favourite ,paflion ; for going eve- dolent manner of living peculiar to the curry year a-hunting, efcorted by a body of hesi.
berty
Mr,   DE   LANGE. . 247
berty of getting it repaired of myfelf, under the pro- Sept. mife that he would take care to get it repaired before 1721. the arrival of the caravan. But, feeing one day pafs af-v-/~V~>^ ter another, and nothing done, I went, on the 15th, to the prefident, to pray him to give orders for repairing the houfe; at the leaft, not oppofe my doing it at my own expence. But his anfwer was, he would inftantly hire the workmen, and it fhould be repaired in one day. And thefe promifes were daily repeated, as well by my Mandarin as by the prefident, till, at length, the commiflary arrived with the caravan at pekin, on the 2Cjth. As it rained very hard during that whole day, the commiflary found, at his arrival, that there was no place where he, or any of his people, could be covered from the rain; and he was obliged to let all the baggage of the caravan remain in the court*yard, without being able to fecure one fingle parcel. As foon as the caravan was entered into my court-yard they re-inforced the guard at the gate, and polled cen-tinels all round the houfe, to fecure us, as they faid, againft thieves; but, in reality, to prevent our commif-fary's having any opportunities of trading with any perfon whatfoever, till fuch time as they Ihould receive the merchandifes, which they might pretend to have occafion
sept. fi°n f°r> f°r his Majefty and the court. Befides which, 1721. they ordered two Mandarins, with a clerk, to remain V-/"v~N^in our houfe, to take good care that no merchandife was fold on credit, and to note down exactly the names of all that fhould come into, or go out of, our houfe j what goods, and how much, they bought, and at what price.
OCTOBER.
In the beginning of this month I fent again to the council, on the fubject of the repair of our houfe. Upon which they let me know, the 6th, by a clerk, that the prefident had fent a courier to his Majefty, to be informed if his Majefty would be pleafed to have our houfe repaired by the treafury, or if it was our bufinefs to repair it; the Emperor, by virtue of the laft convention between the two empires, not being obliged to furnilh any thing to our people. Whereupon I patiently waited till the
1 2 th. The workmen came, at length, to make the reparation fo often promifed; but it was done fo negligently, that, when they made an end, there was little alteration for the better. The commiffary employed the reft of this month to unpack the goods, that he might put every thing in order againft the time he
fhould
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 249 mould be permitted to begin to trade.   In the mean octob. while, we were villted very affiduoufly by four Manda- 1721. rins, who pretended to be deputed, from the court, to^/"V'X-> receive the merchandifes appropriated for his Majefty; demanding, from the com miliary, an exact fpecificati-on of all the goods brought by the caravan, that they might chufe what was neceffary for the fervice of the court.   They were anfwered, " That they need not *! expect that the commiflary would give them a fpeci-" fixation of all he had in the caravan; but that, if " they had any orders of the court for us, they ought V to produce letters of credit addrefTed to me or the " commiffary; or, atleafl, to let us fee a fpecification of m the goods wanted, figned by the mafter of the ward-« robe of the Emperor, whereupon they mould know *i if fuch goods were in the caravan or not. But thefe gentlemen would not quit their demand fo, alledging, " That they muft go according to the cuftoms obferv-" ed in times paft, when the commiflary of every ca-«< ravan had been obliged to give fuch a fpecification " to thofe deputed by the court to receive the goods
from him; that they did not intend to be ferved at " this time as they had been with former commiflarics, " when the court got goods of but indifferent quality,
Vol. II. I i after
octob. " after the bed: goods had been difpofed to private per-172 1. " fons; that to this end, they fhould be careful to exa-"-S^^" mine all that the commifTary had brought, and that " they would take what they wanted, for the court, . " out of the bell: they could find, particularly fables " at 3 laen per pair, as ufual." The commiflary, feeing thefe people pretend to infifl on his giving them goods at fuch an under-price, craved from me the protection of the Czar, our common mafter, alledging, that he had fables which colt him 20 or 30 roubles-the pair; and that it was eafy to comprehend what market he fhould make with the reft of his goods, if he fhould be obliged to fell the fables at fuch a lofiW price. Upon which I made the deputies underftand, " That the merchandifes of the caravan did not be-" long to the commiflary, nor to me; and, in cafe they " did, it was not to be fuppofed that we fhould credit " them at all, at leaft without their bringing a fpccifi-" cation in form, figned by the perfon who hath the " fuperintendance of thefe affairs at court. But that " did not fignify, they had only to bring their money, " and, when the commiflary had fhown them the goods, " he would fee if he could arnree with them." Thefe gentlemen feemed to take offence at this anfwer. Ne-
verthelefs,
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 251 verthelefs, they engaged, at laft, to bring fuch a fpeci- octob, fication; but they deferred it from one day to another. 1721. In the mean time, they made ufe of all their cunning v-y"v"VJ to prevail on us to deliver them, at an under-price, all the goods they thought fit to take.
NOVEMBER.
The ill of this month, having fent my interpreter to the council, to defire them to admit the commiflary to the liberty of trading, they let me know, in anfwer,
" That it was impoffible to do it, before the depu-" ties of the court had received the goods they had to " receive for his Majefty."
The 4th, I fpoke of this affair, not only with my Mandarin, but alfo with the Kientu, or Mandarins appointed to our houfe, to the end that they fhould dif-pofe thofe people to give us their fpecification, in order to end this affair. The fame day I went to meet his Majefty, who was returning from the hunting; and met him on the 5th, at 80 ly from pekin, at the hot-baths of tanczchang. His Majefty told me, " That " he had received news from Europe, that his Czarifh " Majefty had made peace with Sweden, by the me-14 diation of the Roman Emperor." After which, he asked me, 11 How long the caravan had been arrived?"
I i 2 Upon
25* JOURNAL OF
novem. Upon which I anfwered, " That they were, indeed,. 1721. « fince the 29th of September at pekin; but the com-" miliary had not yet got permiffion to trade." Upon which his Majefty, difmifting me, went to the bath.
I muft, on this occafion, acquaint the reader with -the cuftom of this empire, in fuch circumftances as this of the deputies above-mentioned. All the Mandarins that are charged with any commiffion of the court, be it to fubjects or foreigners, are named and difpatched by the miniftry. When fuch commifTion is finifhed, thefe people are obliged to make prefents, not only to the minifters, but alfo to the Princes of the blood, to the end that they may not give them too much trouble, and that they may keep fome thing to themfelves. They have no caufe to fear that the people,, with whom they have to do on thefe millions, will find accefs to the minifters, or that ever a ferious inquiry will be made into their conduct; which is fo true, that no perfon will readily undertake to make complaints of their tricks, becaufe there is no reparation to be expected. No perfon can carry his complaints directly to the Emperor, but they muft abfolutcly be made by the minifters, or thofe who hold the firft office of the palace, or the chamber of his Majefty; and
thefe
Mr.    DE   LANGE. 253 thefe gentlemen are fo clofely linked to the interefts novem. of the other great lords of the empire, that, whatever 1721. party the fufTerer may addrefs himfelf to, he will cer- ^^"^ tainly remain the dupe of the affair.
The fame day, the deputies endeavoured again to get fome goods from us, while the fpecification might be made out; but their defign did not take effect.
The oth, I fpoke again to the Mandarins of the council, concerning our caravan; but I could get no other anfwer, but that this affair regarded the deputies of the court only.
The 14th, when I would have gone out myfelf to the council, the guard, at our gate, flopped me, under pretext that the four Mandarins, deputies from the court, had ordered, that no perfon fhould be fuffered to go out till the goods, which they ought to have for the court, were firft delivered. Though I paffed in fpite of the guard, I was neverthelefs obliged to return without doing any thing, as the prefident was not in the city.
The 15th, I fent my interpreter to the council to receive the refolution of the prefident, upon what I had rcprefented the day before; and as he found him not there, but was told he was at home, he went thither
254 JOURNAL OF
NOVEM.ther to fpeak with him, and brought me the anfwer 1721. following, " That the prefident would take care that v"/^>w« this affair mould be ended out of hand; that to this " end it was neverthelefs neceflary, that the commifla-" ry fhould put a reafonable price upon his goods." He defired further my interpreter to tell me, that, at this feafon, he was rarely at home; becaufe he was o-bliged to be all day long at czchan-zchumnienne attending his Majefty; that when I fhould have any affair to propofe to him, I fhould communicate the fame, by my interpreter, to the Mandarins of the council, who would not fail making him the neceffary report immediately.
The 16th, the deputy Mandarins having made up, according to their own fancy, a fpecification of merchandifes to be received by them for the provifion of his Majefty and the court, they came to prefent it to us, in order, by means of this impofition, to get a large parcel of goods from us.
But the 17 th, this fpecification being tranflated into the russ language, we found that the quantity of merchandife which they demanded, was much too large to be agreed to. For which reafon, it was asked of them, 11 From whom this fpecification was fent to us? and
" who
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 255 " who had made it out?" Upon which, after many turns, Novem. and tergiverfations employed to no purpofe, they were 1721. at length forced to acknowledge that it was of their (^ry^J own forming; it being their opinion, that fuch a quantity would be wanting for the ufe of the court. But, in making this avowal, they did not fail to make the commiflary apprehend, " That he need not flatter him-* felf with a liberty of trading, with any perfon, before «* they fhould receive all that was contained in the fpe-" cification."
The 18 th, the Alegada being come to our houfe to buy fome goods, I befought him to remember the promifes which his Majefty had been fo good to make to' Mr. de ismayloff on the fubjecl: of freedom of commerce, feeing, that by the courfe which affairs took at' prefent, it looked as if they were entirely forgot. But he gave me for an anfwer to all, " That it was an af-'* fair that did not in the leaft regard him, and that I " had none but the council to addrefs myfelf to*."
* In china all is done by the difpofiti- pofTefTion of the throne of china, they are
on of different colleges, to whofe cognizance not much regarded; witnefs the exercife of
the affairs may belong ; it not being permit- all forts of foreign religions puhlickly autho-
ted to addrefs the court directly, upon any rifed, and the allowance of a Russian agent
affair whatever. In the time of the laft cm- at pekin, agreed to by the fole good pleafure
vif.se Emperor, thefe colleges were fo abfo- of the Emperor, in oppofition to the remon-
lute, that, on many occafions, the Emperor ftranees of his minifters, and to the conftitu-
liimfclf dared not meddle with their decrees ; tion of the government of china. kut, fince the tartah Trinces have been in
The
256 JOURNAL OF
novem.    The 2 2d, I fent my interpreter to the council with 1721, a memorial on the fubjed of this affair; but the Man-Vk>'"V"N^darins he found there refufed to receive it, under the pretext, that they muft have before-hand the orders of the prefident thereupon, and know, from him, whether they fhould receive it or not.
The fame day the four deputies, being come to fee us, gave us to underfland, " That the ufual time of " keeping the commiffary at home being nigh finifii-m ed, they were come to commence a trade with him, " and to know how much he demanded for each fort " of merchandife, to the end, that, after they had fir " nifhed their bargain with him, they might then de-" clare our houfe free for everybody to enter." Whereupon I demanded of them, " Who could have au-" thorifed them to fhut up, in the manner ufual with 11 flaves, for any time, the fubjects of fo potent a mo-" narch as was the Czar my mafter?" But thefe gentlemen, not finding it proper to anfwer fo ticklilh a que-ftion, contented themfelves with faying, " That it " would be well for the commiflary to refolve to give " them the merchandife they required, and that at a " reafonable price, unlefs he would, out of wantonnefs, *' involve himfelf in expences which would much exceed
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 257 " ceed the profit he thought to make by his obftinacy; NOvem. " and that, in the fituation he was, being obliged to 1721. * feed his people at his own expence, he acted directly ^ " contrary to his own interefts, not to clofe affairs with " them."   Thereupon I defired to know, " If they had " orders to prefs us, in fo violent a manner, to deliver " them the merchandifes."   Upon which they anfwer-ed, " No; and that they were come to deal with the " commiffary; but that he muft let them have the belt " goods at fuch prices as the court always paid." The commilfary, to make his laft effort, offered them merchandifes, of the fame quality as thofe which the court had received at other times, without advancing the price; but that did not clofe the affair.   They went away, faying they would confult together, to fee if it was feafible for them to augment the price of the goods above that which the court had always given.
Soon after they came from the council to enquire for my interpreter, to communicate to him the anfwer of the prefident concerning my memorial. Upon which I fent him directly with the faid memorial; no way doubting, but, after what the prefident had himfelf told him, it would be received at once. But, on his return, he acquainted me, that the prefident had ordered a Manda-
Vol. II. K k rin
258 .       JOURNAL OF
ivrovEM. *m t0 ^et me ^now tne anfwer; which I wrote, word for 1721. word, from the mouth of my interpreter. il I applied to « the Allegamba on thefubject of the memorial of the **■. agent, and he not only forbid us to receive the faid " memorial, but alfo charged me to tell the agent that " which he had formerly told Mr. de ismayloff, viz. *' That commerce is looked upon by us with contempt, " and as a very trifling object; that the agent himfelf • was not ignorant, that we had long refufed to admit " the prefent caravan, and moft certainly fhould never " have confented to its admittance into china, if his " Majefty had not fuffered himfelf to be perfuaded to " it, at the reiterated inftances of Mr. de ismayloff." " That the Allegamba had, at the fame time, added " thefe words, " Thefe merchants come here to enrich " themfelves, not our people, which is eafy to be feen, 11 becaufe they pretend themfelves to fix the price of " their own goods, that they may fell them the dearer. " For thefe reafons, go tell the agent, that we mall " not only refufe to receive the faid memorial, but that, " in future, he need not give himfelf the trouble of " propofmg any thing to us that may be relative to " commerce, becaufe we will not embarrafs ourfelves Ci hereafter with the merchants of russ i a." Whereupon
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 259 upon our confinement continued much the fame as be- NOvem. fore; infomuch, that it was only permitted to the do- 1721. mefticks of the firft minifter, of the prefident, and a clerk of the wardrobe, to enter our houfe; which they did very frequently, and in all appearance, to fpy what palfed in our quarters; in hopes that we Ihould be obliged, at length, to fubmit our trade to their difcre* lion*
The 25th, I underftood that the brigadier, who, till that time, had the charge of the guard at our houfe, was reftored to the good graces of the Emperor; and that his Majefty had made him grand marlhal of the court, with the command in chief of the army which this monarch keeps in the country of the mongalls*. Whereupon I repaired immediately to his houfe, to pay my compliments; and having found an opportunity, at the fame time, of acquainting him with what had paf-
* The mongalls are tartak Pagans, they are brought up in extreme grofs ido-
who dwell to the north of china.   They latry, and have in a manner no religion;
are divided intq two branches, of which the they, for the greateft part, dwell in towns
firft is that of the Eaftcrn, or of the North- and villages, and apply themfelves to agri-
ern mongalls, or the nieochu, who in- culture.   The fecond branch is that of the
habit towards the coafts of the fea of ja- Weftern mongalls, otherwife called
pan, between the river amoos and the cuchies; thefe laft are only under the
Grand Wall; thefe are the natural fubjetfs protection of china, without being entire-
of the t a r. t a r-houfe which at prefent ly fubjecls, having their own proper Chan ;
fills the throne of china ; and are the very they live in tents, anu fubfift by their cattle,
people, who, in the laft century, made without cultivating their lands.   Their re-
themfelves mailers of the empire of china; ligion is the worfliip of the Deluy-Lam;i.
Kk 2 fed
kovem.fed regarding the four Mandarins deputed from the 1721. court; he gave me his word that he would go to court U/'"V~^that day, to inform himfelf circumftantially of that affair; and that, afterwards, he would order them to receive what might be abfolutely neceflary for his Majefty and the court without further delay. He, at the fame time, feemed to be extremely furprifed at the conduct of his brother the Allegamba on this occafion.
The 27th, the firft minifter, being come to our houfe, told me, " That he underftood the interdict on g our houfe was not taken off, and delircd me to ac-" quaint him with the caufe of it." Upon which I made anfwer, u That I had, for a long time, endea-" voured to find it out; but I could find no perfon who " would feem to know it. Neverthelefs it muft, in m time, be cleared up; feeing it was a notorious inju-" ftice, to keep a caravan1 fhut up fo long, that came v upon the faith of treaties folemnly ratified." He replied thereupon, " That the court, for a long time, " refolved to admit no caravans, becaufe all the mer-" chants, who had traded with the russes, were reduced to the loweft ebb, by the very great quantity of russ « goods which were at prefent in china; that it was on f the very ftrong inftances which Mr. de ismayloff
" had
Mr. D E LANG E. 26l " had made, as well to the court as to the council; of- NOvem. « fering, for this purpofe, that the commifTary and his 172 r. " people fhould fubfiff, for the future, at their own^^ ' " expence; that, in the end, they had admitted the " prefent caravan; that the commifTary, fo far from " having any regard to thefe circumflanccs, refufed " now to take the ufual prices, that had been offered " him, for the merchandife which the court had occa-" fion for, and infilled on a very high price for them; " That he wiihed I would bring the commiflary to rea-« fon in this affair, and let him know the refult." Upon which I told him, " That I had nothing to do with " putting a new price on goods which the commiflary f had in commiffion; that it did not depend on me, « as it was the commifTary who was to account for the " goods with which he was entrufted, who would not " permit any other, befides himfelf who fold them, to " fet a price; that, as to what regarded the admiffion u of the caravan, it was ftipulated long before Mr. de « ismayloffs arrival at pekin, and there could not " the leaft alteration be made in it, without making " the foundations of the treaties concluded between " the two empires; and fuppofing any alteration was « to be made, it could not be done but by mutual
con-
262 JOURNAL OF
novem. " confent, and after deputies, appointed for this pur-17 21. " pofe, by the two empires, mould have examined this Vw/"v"^ " affair to the bottom, and made a new plan of con-u vention."  This anfwer feemed to nettle the minifter, who broke up the converfation, and ordered the commifTary to Ihow him fome goods.
DECEMBER. The four Mandarins, deputed from the court, finding, at length, that we rather chofe to have our confinement continue, than to fubmit to their unrcafon-able pre tendons; and that, on the other hand, the grand marfhal of the court interefted himfelf flrongly in our favour, and would abfolutely have an end of this affair, the interdict on our houfe was at laft taken off. And,
The 2d of this month, the council made publication, that it was permitted to all perfons to come and trade with us; but they ufed one piece of chicanery, which hurt us much, and really kept off all the merchants; for when they perceived the merchants began to refort to our houfe, they made known to them, " That no perfon fhould carry out the leaft thing, of " what they bought at our houfe, without mowing it " iiift to the four Mandarins-deputies, to the end that
" they
Mr.   DE LANCE. Ci they might take what they found proper for the ufe " of the court."  This notification took away from the merchants all defire of trading with us; feeing they were allured of being great fufferers if they were obliged to pafs through the hands of thefe greedy Mandarins; which made me acquainted, more than any thing elfe, with the mifery of the profeffion of a merchant in china; who are obliged to depend on the difcretion of Mandarins and foldiers, who have none.   But the Poyamba or grand marfhal of the court, having been informed of it, had the goodnefs to remedy this new grievance; ordering the Mandarins not to take any thing, for the ufe of the court, from any other perfon than from the commiflary. For this purpofe he fent, at the fame time, his fteward with them, to the commif-fary, to tell him, " That he came with them, by order " of his mafter, to fee how much, and what forts of " merchandifes thefe gentlemen would take, to the end " that they might make him an exact report." Whereupon they were fhown the goods; but they acted fo much upon the referve, in prcfence of this man, that they took in all but a very middling parcel of goods. Neverthelefs, this did not prevent their repairing every day to our houfe, to take from the Chinese merchants
what
JOURNAL OF r>ECEMB what goods they thought proper. And the more to 1721. counteract our trade, the miniftry had reprefented to the Emperor, that there had been brought, during many years, from year to year, into his Majefty s magazines of fur, a much greater quantity of fables than were neceflary for the confumption of the court; and that, as this quantity augmented annually, it was bet. ter that his Majefty Ihould order fome of them to be fold, than to let them lye and fpoil.
The 1 2th, 13th, and 14th, many Chinese merchants, and other perfons from the great houfes, and ordinary people of pekin, having come to our houfe, ventured to buy fome fquirrel- skins, and other goods of fmall value, in order to difcover the true defigns of the Mandarins who kept themfelves at our houfe; they did not oppofe them until they had fixed their bargains; but, when the bargains were concluded, they fignified to them, that they were not to-carry out any of the things they had bought, till they Ihould chufe the belt of what they had for the court.
The 15th, as they were apprifed at the court and council, that we had begun to trade, they publifhed that they would fell, at reafonable prices, 20,000 fables out of the fur-magazines of the Emperor; whereupon
Mr. D E LANGE. 265 upon all thofe who had begun to trade with us went todecemb, fupply themfelves there; fome for fear of the chicanery 1721 of the Mandarins, others in hopes of buying cheaper there than with us. In fhort, they fold, by what I could afterwards learn, the bed fables at 2 \ laen, middling at 11 laen to 1, and the leaf! at 90 fun; but thefe were not Siberia fables, but thofe of the tonguses*, under the dominions of china, taken about the border of the river amoor j*; of which they furnifh annually a quantity to the magazines of his Majefty. The country whence thefe fables are brought is called solloni.
The 16th, I was informed, that, notwithftanding the court had confented to a free commerce, between the two nations, free of all duties, the Mandarins belonging to our houfe, had given the ftricteft orders to our guard, not to let any the leaft thing, of any kind, be brought into our houfe without producing a billet
* The to nc uses arc a Pagan people        f The river a mo or is one of the largeft
of the north of a si a, who are very pro- rivers" in a si a ;  it takes its rife in the
bably the defcendents of tartars; they country of the mongalls, near the river
occupy a great proportion of the eaftern selinga, anil running from thence eaft-
pans of Siberia ; and fome branches of ward, it makes the frontier of thefe parts,
this people extend themfelves even to the between Eaftern Siberia and the Oriental
fouthcrh banks of the river amoor; the mongalls; and, after a courfe of more
hit party of the tonguses is fubjeel to than 300 german leagues, it difcharges
china ; all the other toncuses are fub- itfelf into the fea of japan, in lat. 44 de-
jeds of russia.   Vide Hijlolre Gencalog, grees north. des tartare s.
Vol. II. L1 from
a66 JOURNAL OF
decemb.from them; and fuch a billet cofl them 30 zfchoffes, 1721. which make about 4 fun. But thofe who would have V^NOs^free ingrefs and egrefs, to our houfe to trade, were o-bliged, once for all, to make a fixed agreement with them, either for a certain limited time, or for the whole time we might flay at pekin; upon which they received a billet, which intitled them to come into, and go out of our houfe as often as they pleafed. All thofe who refufed to pay in this manner, for the freedom of entry into our houfe, were fent back, as people who came to our houfe to borrow, or perhaps to fleal on occafion.
The 17th, my Mandarin being come to fee me, I told him, " rrhat I was very glad to learn, that the " court had alfo begun to enter into trade; which they " had before looked upon as fo contemptible a thing 14 with them, that they always reproached us with the " little importance of it; that, fince his Majefty had " given fuch authentick marks of the eftecm he had " for commerce, I hoped, that in time to come, they " would fpeak of it with more circumfpeclion.1' Whereupon he replied, " That it was not with a view of inte-" reft that the Emperor had ordered the fables to be « fold, that I fpoke of; but that the fale was made
11 purely,
Ml   D E   LANG E. 267 " purely, becaufe, having fo great a quantity of themDECEMB. " in his magazines, he thought it better to order them 1721. m to be fold, than that they Ihould ly there till rotten." I thereupon told him, " That if, at the court of his «; Czarilh Majefty, and in his empire, they could make <( ufe of all the furs which the country furnifhed, they " would probably fee very few of them in china." After which, I demanded of him, " If it was with the " knowledge of the Emperor that the Mandarins, pla-" ced at our gate, fold, to the people who had bufinefs " with us, permits of paflage, in and out; and abfolute-" ly denyed entrance, to our houfe, to thofe who would u not pay for thofe permits?"   I would likewife be informed by him, " What was the meaning that the 4 4i Mandarins, deputies of the court, were continually «» in our houfe?" His anfwer to which was, " That the " Emperor knew nothing of it, nor did any perfon dare " to tell him of it; the Alegada having given them " leave to fell fuch permits, as a fmall cafual profit: " that, as to the Mandarin deputies, they were igno-" rant of the confequence of what they did." Whereupon I told him, at the conclufion, " That I did not " comprehend why the minifters were fo averfe to us " in every thing, even to the refufing to fee us, or re-
L 1 2 11 ceive
268 JOURNAL OF
decemb." ceive our memorials; that I wilTied, with all my heart;
1721. " that they mould not carry it fo far, as to oblige me <*/~v~><J« to carry my complaints to the perfon of the Bogdoi-" Chan direct; and further, that I asked nothing but il what was conform to treaties, and that if the treaties V were to fubfift in their full force, between the two " empires, there was an abfolute necefllty to hear what " I had to fay, and to give fuch refolutions as they " mould think proper, upon the memorials which I l- Ihould, from time to time, prefent them on the oc-" cafion."
The latter end of this month, his Majefty made a tour to caisa, which is a palace, with a frrw park, fome lys to the fouth of pekin, where he palled fome weeks; which was the occafion that nothing remarkable paf-fed, during this time, between the minifters and me.
JANUA R Y, 1722./ The 15th of this month the guard, at our gate, re-fufed entrance to fome carts of hay, which my people had bought, becaufe the peafants had not billets of paflage, and they would not give any thing to the foldiers; and notwithstanding I fent to advertife the Mandarins, and officers who commanded the guard at our
gate,
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 26*9 gate, of this infolence of the guard, they, not with ft and- januar. ing, drove away the peafants with their hay.   I com- 1722. plained of it to my Mandarin, but to little purpofe.
The 16th, after having received the news of the perpetual peace, concluded between his Czarifh Majefty and the ottoman porte, I caufed Te Deum to be fung in the church of st. nicolas, and celebrated the reft of the day in feftivity.
FEBRUARY.
The 2d of this month, and according to cuftom, I offered fome prefents to his Majefty on the new year, which is a ceremony that muft be obferved by every peifon, veiled with any publick character, unlefs he would expofe himfelf to a general cenfure. His Majefty received my little prefents very gracioufly, and prefented me, in return, with fome of all the forts of game he had taken at the hunting the laft autumn*, and of a good number of fheep; and it is in this manner that his Majefty is accuftomed to regale annually, at the clofe of the year, thofe people of his court that he would diftinguilh.
The 4th, which is the laft day of the Chinese year,
* The mongalls, and other P;i;;an tartars, have a particular method for drying all forts of flefh, by the air and the fun, which entirely prevents their perilhing; by which means they keep wild fowl from one year to another.
die
f ebr. tne court ended the year with a feaft; which was very 1722. fhort, becaufe his Majefty was but juft recovered from
V-/^v"^Ja fit of illnefs, which he had laboured under. On this occafion, I had the honour of fitting over* againft his Majefty, at fome diftance from the throne; and this place is a little below the feat of the Princes of the blood, but above that of the Mandarins of the firft clafs. The feaft being finilhed, and his Majefty retired, the mafter of ceremonies came to tell me, that I might be dif-penfed with coming the next day, being new year's-day, to court, to pay my compliments to his Majefty; feeing it was the cuftom of the Princes of the blood, and Mandarins of the empire, to be all ranged in the court of the caftle that day, every one according to his rank; where, as I was a foreigner, I could have no rank.
The 14 th, the firft minifter gave me, and the com-miffary a dinner; on which occafion there palfed nothing remarkable, unlefs that he asked me, " If I was " not to return with the caravan?" Which made me think they had already fettled this affair at court, I anfwered him thereupon, " That it did not depend on " my pleafure to leave the court, where the Czar, my
mafter,
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 271 • mailer, had fent me to refide, till he fhould recall FEBR. "me." I722-
The 18th and 19th, his Majefty caufed the celebra- ks/^v"x^ tion of the feaft of Lanthorns, which had been annually celebrated, at the court of china, for above 2000 years. This feaft was folemnized at czchan-zchum-nienne with great magnificence. During the grand entertainment, which was that day at court, they re-prefented all forts of plays, and other diverting fhows; and, at night, they exhibited grand fire-works, which, joined to fo many illuminations, and to the prodigious quantity of lanthorns, adorned with figures, and di-verfified with all forts of colours, caufed a furprifing agreeable view, during the darknefs of the night*. They placed me, on this occafion, the fame as they did the laft time at pekin, at the diftance of fome paces from the Emperor's throne.
The 20th, being returned to pekin, fome of the principal of the korea merchants came to fee me; but when they would have entered my apartment, fome of
* The Chinese are accuftomed to be    rmrkably beautiful, the variety and livelincfs at very great expence at this feftival, in tire-    of their colours furpafs the European per-works, and in lanthorns, having lanthorns    forniances fo much, that we are obliged to that will colt them 10,000 laen, and up-    own, they excel us in thefe pciforniances. wards. The fire 6f their rockets are alfo re-
the
272 JOURNAL OF
febr. the foldiers, who accompanied them, oppofed it; and 1722- they narrowly efcaped the lafti of the foldiers whips, ^"^^who had lifted them againft thofe merchants. Upon which, I prefently ordered them to be kept, by our people, in the court before my houfe, to wait there till the merchants Ihould go out of my houfe. And I, at the fame time, gave them to under (land, that they for the future would do wifely not to make ufe of their whips at my houfe. After which the merchants indeed entered into my apartment, but dared not make any ftay there; for fear of being infulted by the foldiers that efcorted them*. The civility with which I received them, and to which they had not been ufed with the Chinese, made them have a defire of being more acquainted with me. For they came again on the 2 2d, before my houfe, but the guard at the gate refufed them entrance.
* The Chinese being accuflomed to ever be defirous of throwing off the Chinese
treat the inhabitants of korea with great yoke; feeing, that, by the river amoor, the
roughnefs, and having prohibited them all russes could fall down into the ports of
correfpondence with foreign nations, it is korea, without a poflibility of the ciunesb
not to be expecled that they fhould relax hindering them. And it is not impoflible but
their hard treatment of them, for the fake this conducf of Mr. lange might have been
of a minifter of the court of russia; which one caufe of the court of china's fudden
is as it were the only power who could flip- rcfolution of ordering him to leave the coun-
jport the inhabitants of korea, if drey fhould try.
MARCH.
Mr.   D E LANGE.
MARCH. M
During this month, we continued our trade as much I as the Mandarins, and foldiers of our guard, would permit. There paiTed nothing elfe remarkable, unlefs that the commifTary having fent a clerk of the caravan towards the deferts, to fee in what condition the horfes were, which were left there in their way to pekin; he reported to us, that they were all in very bad plight; and that if we did not, out of hand, fend money, that they might be put into ftables, there was danger of the greateft part of them dying.
APRIL.
The 6th of this month, I fent my interpreter, at the defire of the commifTary, to the Mandarins which were placed at our houfe on account of the caravan, and let them know, that the commifTary being obliged to fend one of his people with money, towards the defert, in order that the people, who had the charge of the horfes of the caravan, fhould be enabled to put them into ftables, he would, for the greater fecurity, have occafion for fome foldiers, or fome others, to efcort this man; and I prayed their care of this affair. Whereupon they returned me anfwer, that they would
Vol. II. M m make
274 JOURNAL OF
april. make their report to the council; for, without their 1722. orders, they could do nothing in it.
The 7th, two Mandarins, accompanied by a clerk, came to bring me an anfwer, from the prefident, on this affair; and, it being wrote on a fheet of paper, they read the fame to me in the following terms.
" The Allegamba having been informed yefferday, " that you wanted to fend a meflage again towards the " deferts, could not but imagine that it was for fome " other bufinefs than that of horfes, that your people " made fuch frequent journies between the deferts and " pekin; this gives him reafon to think, that, by the " help of the mongalls, you carry on a fecret intelli-" gence between this city and selinginsky, which " may give birth to complaints and threats between " the two empires; for he is not ignorant, that the " mongalls are a people capable of engaging in fuch " affairs, and that the russes do not grudge money on " fuch occafions." I asked them thereupon, " Whe-« ther this anfwer was from the Allegamba, or whether " it was their own compofition." Upon which they af-fured me, that they wrote it, word for word, the fame that the Allegamba gave them; and that it was for
the
Mr.    DE   LANGE. 275 the fame reafon he would not confent to the fending April, the perfon, as defired. 1722.
After this explanation, I thought neceflary, for my^/'V">0 greater fecurity, to defire them to acquaint the Allegamba, on my behalf, " That the precaution he took M was not right to take, unlefs with prifoners, or unlefs " he had any intercepted letter to produce, by which " he could convict me of having fought to embroil the ** two empires; that bearing, as I did, a publick cha-" racier, I might write, as often as I pleafed, without " having any occafion either of the efcort, or the con-" fent of the prefident; and the fame, if I had a cou-*' rier to difpatch for my private affairs, as he could not 11 prevent it without an open violence." I fent forthwith my interpreter to the council, with the Mandarins, to know the determination of this minifter. But he fent me word, that he had no defire to employ the horfes and the people of the army of the Emperor, his mafter, in our fervice, on journies which muft caufe them to be at expences for which they were not fur-nifhed by their ordinary pay. Upon which I made him the propofal of being ourfelves at the expence of the people for the efcort which he fhould grant us, and that we would alfo mount them on our own horfes, that
M m 2 they
april. they might have no occafion for the Emperor's; or, if 1722. that was ftill not fatisfactory, I would only demand a
^^^pafiTport, and would run the risk of fending one of our own people without an efcort. But he continued firm in his denial, and would not allow of one or other of the expedients; contenting himfelf with letting me know, once for all, " That he would do nothing in it." I learnt, at the fame time, from my interpreter, that they had rcafoncd among themfelves, on this occafion, in much the following manner ; " Thefe foreigners " come here with their commerce, to encumber us e-" very moment with a thoufand petty affairs; pretend-" ing that they ought to be favoured, on all occafions, il no more nor lefs than if they laid an obligation on us; u. and yet, we are ftill to receive the firft anfwer from " them on the fubjecr. of our affairs."
The 16th, I understood, that, fome weeks ago, the Tuih-du Chan of the mong alls * who encamp
* This is the ni:ne of the prefent Chan nisey, and even from thence, on the other
of die Wuf.in mongalls. This Chart was fide of this river, towards the fources of the
heretofore fovereigtl 'T but, fince the Eaft- oby ; and, on the other fide, towards the
ern mongalls have poffeffed themfelves eaft, they reach to the Creat wall. The
of china, he put himfelf under the pro- Chan of the Weftern mongalls hath a
tectum of that empire; in order to be the great many petty Chans of this nation for
better able to make head againft the kal- his valfals, andean bring 100,000 men, or
mucks, with whom they are, in a manner, more, into the field, all cavalry; but his
at continual war.   He is a very powerful foldiers fall far fliort of the Kalmucks
prince; his dominions, on the weftern fide, foldiery. reach to the banks of the great river ye-
at
Mr, D E LANGE. at urga, had brought complaints to the court, of the ill conduct of the russ merchants who came to urga; and that he had, at the fame time, advertifed the mi-niftry, that there never had been fo great a concourfe of russ and Chinese merchants at his refidence, as in this year; that, thereupon, his Majefty had taken a re-folution to fend a Mandarin with orders to the Chan to chafe out all the merchants, as well russes as Chinese, from urga, without letting it appear that it was done by order of his Majefty; but that it fhould appear as the proper act of the Tufh-du Chan, as mailer of his own country.
The fame day, a courier, who was lately arrived from selinginsky, with difpatehes from the Mandarin who refided there, told my interpreter, that the intendant of selinginsky had tendered feveral packets of letters, that came from russia, to this Mandarin, in order to be forwarded to the council of the affairs of the mongalls at pekin; but he refufed to receive them, becaufe the intendant could not acquaint him with their contents.
c i fcigl^p;  '.     MAY.   , ■ : ;. ;   t ' y£ The 4th of this month, two Mandarins of the council, accompanied with three clerks and two officers of
our
278 JOURNAL OF
m a y. our guard, being come to my apartment at 11 o'clock 1722. at night, informed me, that the Allegamba, being re*
^-SvX-J turned from court, wanted to fpeak with me on an affair of confequence; and becaufe he was employed, during the day-time, from morning till night, he prayed me to give myfelf the trouble of coming to him, though it was late at night. I was a-bed when the melTage came to me j however I made no difficulty of riling, to comply with this minifter s defire; the more, as the Mandarins allured me that the bufinefs he wanted to fpeak with me about was a very prefting affair. When I came to his houfe I was received with remarkable civility, and the Allegamba being come in perfon to meet me, even to the court, he led me to his a-partment, and defired me to fit down by him. He then began to make excufes, that, in fo long a time, he had not been able to fee me at his own houfe, or in other places; but that he fuppofed I was not ignorant that he was obliged to be every day, from morning till night, with his Majefty, at czchan-zchumnienne. Upon which I replied, that his excufe was unanfwer-able; and that I commiferated his being obliged to pafs his time in fo fatiguing a manner. After many other reciprocal compliments of this nature, he demanded
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 279 manded of me, " If it was long fince I had any news may. ** from selinginsky."  I anfwered, M That it was 1722. " fome time fince I had any."  In the end, the affair <-/"v^' which he was about difcovered itfelf, by little and little, when he asked me, * If I remembered that when I «' would lately difpatch a meffenger, by kalchanna, *' towards the defert, he had told me that he could not *' confent to it, becaufe he apprehended, that, by fuch " means, fecret correfpondence might be carried on, " which might bring on fome mifunderflanding be-" tween the two empires."   I told him thereupon, " That I did remember that, and the reft of the unex-** peeled anfwer he then gave me; but, not having e-" ver been able to guefs whence fuch fufpicion could arife, he would infinitely oblige me, if he would pleafe l< to fpeak a little more intelligibly on this affair.'* Whereupon he replied, " We apprehend you have in-" telligence of our deferters, which you do not think " fit to communicate to us*."  Thereupon I remon-
* The tonguse s, as well as the mom- of altercations between the two empires. galls, and other people of tartar, ex- In order to remedy thefe inconveniences, it traction, who inhabit on the confines of rus- was agreed in the laft treaty, that, for the s[a and china, are acciiftomed to defert future, fuch dcferters fhould not be received very often, by hundreds of families, from by either power, but ihould honeftly be retire lands of one empire to thofe of the o- turned to the place from whence they came, ther, according as their caprice or intereft From this article the Chinese pretend a prompts them ; which is often the fubject right to reproach the russes with not acl-
lfratedj
28o JOURNAL OF
M A Y. floated, " That, if he would pleafe to confider the vaft 1722. " diftance between st. petersburg and pekin, he would himfelf judge whether it was poffible for the u courier, difpatched on this affair, to be returned al-u ready, unlefs he could fly; that, as to the reft, he ** himfelf knew that affairs of fuch confcquence were " not the bufinefs of a day, and required other things »* to adjuft them than fccret correfpondence." He fhook his head at this anfwer, becaufe there was then a report current at pekin, that orders were arrived at selinginsky, from the Czar, not to reftore the deferters before fpoken of. Some moments afterwards he asked me, " If I would communicate to him the news, when " I fhould receive my letters." Upon which I allured him, " That I fhould conceal nothing from him, whe-*' ther it regarded him in particular, or regarded the *« court; feeing fuch affairs could not be communi-" cated to me, but by exprefs orders of the Czar, my " mafter; which, whatever defire I might have, I dared " not keep fecret." This minifter, not thinking he had yet fufficient reafon to be fatisfied, demanded a-
ing candidly,in deferring fo long the reuitu- ses, on their fide, alfo reclaim a good tion of 700 families of their fubjeels, which number of families, and infill on its being .went over to the Russian territories fince equitable to come to a liquidation of their .the conclufion of this treaty j and the kv s-    reciprocal pretenfions.
new
Mr,   DE   LANGE. 281
rrew of me, " If, when I fhould receive private letters, M AY. " I would let him have a copy?" I anfwered thereupon, 1722. " That it was certainly the firft time, fince the world Kyr*v~KJ " began, fuch a propofal was made; but that I could " not believe that he fpoke in earned on this occafion, " although it was a little too late for raillery." This anfwer being not altogether fuch as he hoped for, he changed, for fome time, the difcourfe, by fiying, " That " he had an intention of telling his Majefty, that the " caravan was almoft ready to depart; and gf receiv-" ing, at the fame time, his orders with regard to my " perfon." Whereupon I defired him 11 To put his Ma-" jefty in mind of the affair, on the fubj eel of which I " had fo often made inftances to him." At length he began to talk to me of my ftay at pekin, faying, " That H the term which was agreed with Mr. de ismayloff, " for my ftay at this court, wanted little of being ex-1 pired." And he made me fully to comprehend, that
I ought to prepare to return with the caravan. Upon which we difputed together long enough, and I told him, on this occafion, " That if he would pleafe to " remember that I affifted on all the conferences that
II were held on this fubjecl:; that I had read, and had " in my cuftody, all the correfpondence of Mr. de is-
Vol. II. N n mayloff,
may. " mayloff, with the council, about his negotiations\ 1722. « and, that I was at all the audiences which his Maje-
^/~V~N°I« fly had granted to that minifter, he could not doubt, ■ but that what was tranfacled by Mr. de ismayloff, " from his arrival till his departure, was as well known " to me as to himfelf." I further alledged to him, on this fubjeef., the refolution of the month of February, 172 1, which he himfelf fent to Mr. de ismayloff; wherein it was faid, " That his Majefty had given his " confcnt to the refidence of an agent at his court, " without any mention regarding the time, directly or 6i indirectly." But this lord, notwithftanding he had nothing to anfwer to what I advanced, held himfelf ftrictly to his firft decifion, that my ftay had been a-greed to only till the return of the prefent caravan. And this altercation did not ceafe till I gave him for a final anfwer, " That the Czar, my mafter, not hav-*l ing ordered me to enter this empire in fpite of the " court, or to continue to refide in it contrary to the " good pleafure of the Bogdoi-Chan, I was obliged to-" conform myfelf, on this occafion, to all that his Ma-" jefty fhould think fit to determine in regard to me.,r After which he fhowed me a fmall letter, with an addrefs in the russ language, faying it came from naniti
tursoff
Mr.DE LANGE. 283 tursoff, interpreter at selinginsky, and that the MAY. Kutuchtu*had fent it to pekin, that it might be de- 1722. livered to me. He added, " That he knew very well, v"/"v°s"; " that fince the departure of Mr. de ismayloff, I had " received a good number of letters, the contents of H which I had communicated to no body; but as to " this letter, I muft determine to open it in his pre-u fence, and let him take a copy of it, if I wifhed to " have it; for if he could not prevail fo far upon me, V I fhould not read it neither, as he would take care " to return it whence it came." He gave orders, for this purpofe, to two tranflators, who were then prefent, to fet themfelves by me, and to read the letter at the fame time I did. As I had not yet opened the letter, I asked him, c* What occafioncd a curiofity fo •j unallowable? and if he did not know, that this pro-" cedure was directly contrary to the rights of nati-u ons?" His anfwer was, " That he was well enough " apprifed, that what he did on this occafion was a " little irregular; but this letter happening to fall into *' his hands, he expected that I would not make much
* The Kutuchtu is an high-priefr. be- parts; but he hath, by degrees, found means
longing to the mongalls and the Northern to withdraw from the obedience of his ma-
Kalmucks. He was formerly no more than Her, and to deify himfelf at the expence of
a fub-delegate of the Delay-Lama, in thefe the Delay-Lama.
N n 2 " difficulty
284 JOURNAL OF
may. M difficulty of communicating the contents to him 5 1722. " and that I might determine on the alternative he
V-/^r>V^u had propofed." Thereupon I delivered him the letter, fealed as it was, and defired him to reflect feriouf-ly on the confequence fuch an unwarrantable curiofity might produce; and, in the mean time, I fhould fee to-what lengths he would carry his authority over my letters. After which I left him, and retired to my quarters.
The 5th, two Mandarins came to me, on his part, to fee " If I would not refolve to comply with his will, " in regard to the faid letter." I charged them to tell him, on my part, " That I always found myfelf ready " to do him all imaginable fervice, which he could in " honour expect:; but what he defired, on this occafion, " was fo unreafonable, that I could not but confider it " as an affront, which he had an intention wantonly to* « give me; and that he might depend on being oblig-" ed, at a proper time, to give me fa tis fact ion."
The 6th, the two tranllators above-mentioned were commanded to czchan-zchumnienne, by order of this minifter, which made me think they had proceeded as far as to open my letter; but I was foon convinced of the contrary; for
The
Mr. D E LANGE. The 7th, a Mandarin, accompanied by a clerk, came to bring me the faid letter, which had not the leaft mark of having been opened. He, at the fame time, made me a compliment from the Allegamba, faying, " That he defired I would conceive no ill opinion of ' him, upon what had paffed between us on the fub-" jecl of this letter; in as much as he allured me, there " was nothing ferious on his fide, in this adventure} " and that he only took the liberty of having a little " pleafantry with me; not altogether without flatter-" ing himfelf, that I might not be averfe to comply " with his defire, on this occafion. But now, being " convinced that I was firmly refolved againft this fort " of complaifance, to any perfon whatfoever, he would " no longer delay fending me the letter in queflion, " and, at the fame time, to affure me of his fricnd-" fhip.17 After having received the letter, I let him know, in anfwer, " That I had myfelf, in the begin-V ning, looked on this affair as a jeft; but, finding he " pufhed it too far, I had been obliged to regard it in " another light; feeing I had never looked on the talk-" ing in fuch a manner to be jelling. Neverthelefs, " that, after the pofitive affurances that the Allegam-" ba gave me, that there was nothing ferious on his
11 part
may. " Pa*t of this affair, I ought to confider it in the fame 1722. « light; defiring him, in time to come, to make ufe of ^V^>,<' other perfons, not of me, for his diverfion."
After which, having opened the letter, I found indeed that it was from the faid tursoff, dated urga, 20th of April, 1722. And as the Mandarin and clerk, who brought the letter, were ftill in my chamber, when I began to read it, I made my interpreter tranflate it to them by word of mouth, in the mongall language, to the end that they might communicate the contents to the Allegamba, and know of him if he would grant me a conference on the fubj eel: of this affair, or would rather receive from me a memorial thereupon.
The 8 th, the fame Mandarin came to my houfe, and upon my defiring to know if he had acquitted himfelf of the commiftion I gave him the day before, to the Allegamba, he anfwered in the affirmative, and that he was ordered to bring me his anfwer, which was, " That " the Bogdoi-Chan would hear nothing for the future - " talked of any commerce of the russes, in his empire, " until all the difturbances on the frontiers were en-" tirely adjufted; and as, for this reafon, there might " continue a long fpace of time before any caravan " might come again to pekin, the Bogdoi-Chan found
ic
Mr. D E LANGE. 287 (i it proper that the agent fhould return with the pre- MAy. " fent caravan; and when the commerce between the 1722. M two empires fhould come to be renewed, he mould " likewife be permitted to return to pekin." Whereupon I made anfwer to the Allegamba, " That the or-" ders I received from the Czar, were, as he himfelf well " knew, to remain at pekin till he fhould recal me; " but as I was in no condition to oppofe the orders of " the Bogdoi-Chan, I was obliged to have patience, " and to refolve to do what I had no power to avoid " doing; neveithclefs, that this was no anfwer to what " I defired to know from him, and that I waited for " it with impatience, as I did for a clear explanation M upon this precipitate manner of breaking off all com-« merce and correfpondence, between the two empires, " without waiting for a refolution upon the affairs of " the frontiers, and without any declaration of war, or " other previous mark of hoftility on either fide." But the Mandarin declined to charge himfelf with fuch a meffage, he not thinking it proper for him to repeat fuch terms as it was couched in to the Allegamba, faying, I muft either feek an opportunity to tell him myfelf, or demand a conference, for that purpofe, by my interpreter.
The
28S JOURNAL OF
may. The fame day, in the afternoon, I fent my inter-1722. preter to the council, to acquaint the Allegamba, by
Vta-/"v~N-~;means of the Mandarins he might find there, that I had, the fame day, received the orders of the Bogdoi-Chan for my return to russia; but I had received no anfwer on his part, upon the affair which was the fub-ject I wanted to confer with him upon; for which reafon, if he could not fpare time to fpeak with me himfelf, he would, at leaf!, let me know whether he would receive a memorial, on that fubj eel, from me or not.
The 9th, another Mandarin came to me, and acquainted me, that the Allegamba had been informed of the fubj eel, concerning which I had fent my inter-- preter to the council the day before; and, as he had not a moment to fpare, to confer perfonally with me, he had fent this fame Mandarin to me, to whom I might explain myfelf on what I had to fay to him; as the Allegamba had given him orders to make him a faithful report of every thing which I fhould charge him with. Upon which I told him, that I wifhed he would inform the Allegamba that I prayed him to give me, under his hand, a precife anfwer to the points following, viz.
I. " If the Bogdoi-Chan was difpofed, before my
departure,
Mr.    D E LANGE. €C departure, to receive and to anfwer the credentials " which I was charged with from his Czariih Majefty?
II. " If any fuitable fatisfa&ion was to be expected * for the injuries done to his Czariih Majefty's fubjecls " by the Tufh-du-Chan, or, at lead, by his orders?
III. " What was the reafon that they would not: " grant a free paflage to the letters, addreffed to the " council and to me, which remained on the frontiers ?
IV. u In cafe the Bogdoi-Chan ihould perfift in the u refolution of fending me home, what I fhould fay to " the Czar, my mafter, regarding the perpetual peace " between the two empires ?
V. " Suppofing that, contrary to expectation, my " departure might be deferred, I defired to know, if, " in conformity to the treaties of peace, the Bogdoi-u Chan would grant me poft-horfcs for my journey, or " whether I muft find them myfelf?"
The ioth, there came to me a Mandarin, from the Allegamba, to inform me, " That there was no likeli-" hood that the Bogdoi-Chan would alter his refolu-" tion with regard to my departure; that no perfon " had the boldnefs to fpeak again to his Majefty, after <( he had once explained himfelf fo'pofitively on this u affair.   But that the Allegamba, in his turn, wifhed
Vol. II. O o "to
290 JOURNAL   O R
m ay, " Co be informed why I demanded fo precifely Co know 1722. <f the motives of my being fent away; and why I infi-
K*^~v~^y w If ed fo ftrenuoufly to have a clear explanation of the " intentions of the Bogdoi-Chan towards the Czar; " that he did not know whether I durft make fuch de-" mands, in cafe the Bogdoi-Chan Ihould be pleafed " to fpeak perfonally to me, without my being afraid u that he would make complaints of it to the Czar my M mailer." Upon which I returned him as follows, viz. " That it was abfolutely neceflary for me to be fully in-44 formed of what I defired to know; that, without this 11 being cleared up, Icould not well refolve to depart,fee-" ing it appeared evidently, that fince the departure of " Mr. de ismayloff, the court had entirely changed 11 its difpofition regarding the prefervation of the good " underftanding between the two empires ; that the Al-" legamba himfelf could not be ignorant, how many of " his Czarifh Majefty s lubjects had, immediately afcer " the conclufion of the laft treaty of peace, deferted, and come to fettle on the lands in the dominions of the '« Bogdoi-Chan, without the Czar's having fhown any " refentment to this time, notwithstanding the fame «{ was directly contrary to the fenfe of the treaty; that " the Czar, on this occafion, far from forbidding the
11 fubjecls
Mr.   D E   LANG E. 291 " fubjects of china entrance into his dominions, had may* " always permitted them, without interruption, to en- 1722. 11 joy, in his dominions, an entire liberty, as well in re-^^"^ " gard to trade as all other affairs which could con-u cern them, not even excepting fome of thofe very <c deferters, who, having affairs to tranfacl at fome pla-94 ces in the Czar's dominions, had been no lefs wel-41 come than the others, fubjects of the Bogdoi-Chan^ " but now, that 700 of the fubjects of china had paf-44 fed the frontiers, and would eltablilh themfelves on " the lands belonging to russia, that would forth-*' with forbid all commerce, not receive any more let-'* ters, and in line, at one itroke, break off all com-f( munication between the two empires; and that with-" out even waiting the anfwer of the governor-general (i of Siberia to the letter wrote to him on the fubject, " which was the only certain means of knowing whe-l( ther his Czariih Majefty intended to retain thefe "people, or to make them return; that, to conclude, « I prayed the Allegamba to confider, if it was not il much more eafy to accommodate this affair by treat-" ing of it with more mildnefs, than to pulh it with an " haughtinefs not to be born with*."
* It is certain that the judgment of the late Emperor, either from jcaloufy, or the
O o 2 Where-
may. Whereupon the Mandarin told me, he could not 1722. pofitively undertake for his daring to fay all this to the Allegamba; but that, if a proper occafion offered, he would not fall of doing it faithfully. He told me further, on the part of that minifter, that the Mandarins, who had been fent laft year, by command of the Bogdoi-Chan, to pafs the frontiers of rus-sia, were returned, they not being permitted to proceed on their journey, before the governor-general of s 1b e r i a was made acquainted with it; that the Allegamba might expect to wait long enough for an anfwer, as well upon this affair, as upon all other affairs which regarded the intereft of the two empires, fo long as they did not allow of a free paflage to the letters wrote, concerning them, to the court. I received no more in anfwer then.
In the mean time, I had made a demand, fome time ago, of the council, for a free paflage for the caravan by the old road of kerlinde, (which, the former cara-
artifices of fome fecret enemies, was fo al- figns of his fucccflbr.   But the death of
te.rcd, wiih regard to the itussiA-trade,. a peter the Great entirely brokp thefe mea-
linle before his death, that there was no o- fures; fo that the affairs between Russia
ther way of adjidling it, hut the having re- and china are ftill, at this time, on the
courfe to arms; which was fully refolved on, fame terms they were on the departure of,
on the part of russia, when the news of Mr. de langf. from pkkin ; and, fince the
the death of tins monarch arrived there J l.iil caravan that left pekin with him, no.
which fufpeoded the execution of this de- caravan hath been feit from  8IBB MA to
fop, till they mould fee clearly into the de- pekin.
vans-
Mr. DE LANG E. vans had been ufed to take,) to fave them the incon-veniencies attending the route by the deferts, where the people and the cattle had much to endure for want of water; and, for this purpofe, I fent my interpreter, with a clerk of the caravan, on the 14th, to the council, to know if the Bogdoi-Chan had given his con-fen t, or not. But they told him for anfwer, " That " they expected to have been freed from their impor-*■* tuning the council about their beggarly commerce, " after they had been told fo often, that the council " would not embarrafs themfelves any more about af-" fairs that were only beneficial to the russes; and " that, of courfe, they had only to return by the way " they came."
The fame day, I fent to the houfe of the firft minifter, to know if I could have the honour of feeing him. But he excufed himfelf; faying, that, being far advanced in years, he wanted to be at eafe.
Neverthelefs I did not refrain going myfelf, the next day, which was the 15th, to his houfe; and, the guard at the gate fuffering. me to pafs without interruption, I entered directly into the courtyard, and acquainted him with my being there, by one of his fer-vants; defiring he would afford me a quarter of an hourV
audi-
294 JOURNAL OF
m a y. audience. But he fent me word, " That he was not at 1722. " leifure to fee me; and that, as the affairs, about
^,/~V"N^" which I would fpeak to him, very probably only re-■" garded the council of foreign affairs, he defired I " would addrefs myfelf to them. I chereupon let him know, by the fame domeftick, " That I was come to " fpeak with him, as the firft minifter of the Bogdoi-t( Chan; and if I had not had a very prefling occafion ** of applying to him, he might be fure I would have V been very averfe to have come to give him trouble; " but, that it concerned us equally, both him and my-** felf, that I fhould have the honour of feeing him; " therefore I was determined not to leave his houfe " without fpeaking with him." Upon this fo precife a declaration, the fame domeftick returned, a few moments after, and mowed me into a grand faloon, well enough furniftied after the Chinese manner, where the mafter of the houfhold of this minifter came to prefent me tea and milk, till his mafter ihould come. After I had waited about a quarter of an hour in this apartment, the Allcgada at length came, and defired my excufe, with a number of compliments, after the Chinese manner, that he was not always able to fee me when I might require it; becaufe his great age, and muf-
tipli-
Mr. D E LANGE. 295 tiplicity of affairs with which he was charged, did not may. permit him. Whereupon, we being both feated, I told 1722. him, " That, if the affairs which I had to reprefent to<^V^'J " him, regarded only my own perfon, I fhould not have " ventured to incommode him; but, as they regarded " our common maflers, and the prefervation of a good " underftanding between the two empires; or, to fay " all in two words, peace or war between the two na-" tions; I thought it my duty to feek, before my de-" parture, by every way poffible, an opportunity of " explaining myfelf thereupon with him; that he knew " that the free paffage of the caravans of Siberia u was made, in fome degree, an effential point in all " the treaties between the two empires; that he knew, "moreover, that Mr. de ismayloff had declar-" ed, more than once, that his Czariih Majefty could " never allow that they fhould any more cavil on " that article ; that he further knew, that the free " trade of the fubjects of russia, at urga, was po-" fitively ftipulated by the late treaty, in which they 11 could not make the leaft alteration, without a mani-" felt violation of the faid treaty; that he knew in line, " that it was with the agreement of the Bogdoi-Chan, " and by virtue of a refolution of the council, in wric-
may. " ing> tnat I remained ac pekin, after the departure 1722. « of Mr. de ismayloff, in quality of agent, impower-
K^/r>KJ<' ed by the court of russia, till fuch time as his Cza-" rifh Majefty fhould be pleafed to recal me. Not-*' withftanding which, not regarding fuch folemn cn-" gagements, they had, in regard to this laft caravan, << treated us fo ill, that, if they had been at open war " with russia, they could not have done worfe; that " they had kept fhut up, during many months, the *l commiflary of the caravan, with all his people, jufl "as if they had been Haves j that there was no kind " of infult to which they did not expofe thofe who " had a defire to come and trade with our people. " And yet more, they had caufed the russ fubjecls " to be fhamcfully driven out of urga, who had " come to trade there on the faith of publick treaties. " And, as to what regards myfelf, they had made me " fuffer more affronts, on all occafions that offered, " than can be imagined; in the end, not yet fatisfied " with all thofe fteps, the prefident of the council had " made it be declared to me pofitively, that there " fhould not abfolutely, for the future, any caravan be " admitted, before the affair of the frontiers fhould be " regulated to the fatisfaclion of the Bogdoi-Chan;
M and,
Mr.   D E   LANGE. S97
* and, at the fame time, caufed ic to be fignified to MAY. *« me, that I muft prepare to deparc with the caravan, 1722. f* becaufe his Majefty would not fuffer me to remain<~/~v'XJ " any longer at his court, in the uncertainty that af-
" fairs ftood in between the two empires. That, if this " order regarded me only as a private perfon, there " would be nothing in it which did not depend entirely " on the pleafure of the Bogdoi-Chan; but having been " once admitted by him to refide at his court, in qua-" lity of agent of his Czarifh Majefty, it was a maxim, " practifed by all the civilized nations in the world, not " to fend away, in a manner fo indecent, a perfon vef-" ted with a publick character, unlefs entirely to break " off all good underftanding with his mafter. That if " they defired very ardently, as they affcrted on all oc-" cafions, the reftitution of the deferters in qucftion, *■ and an amicable convention in regard to the fron-" tiers, he would permit me to tell him, that, it ap-? peared to me, they took quite the wrong way to " obtain them; and that the fending me away, fo far " from facilitating thofe affairs, was moft certainly the " greateft obftacle they could think of. That I thought
* it my duty to remonftrate the foregoing matters at this 14 time, that they might ftill be remedied; becaufe, af-i  Vol. II. P p ter
may. " tcr my departure, I did not well fee how it would be 1722, « poflible to get out of this embarrafTment by amicable
v-/~v~>^' means. The minifter thereupon anfwered me, " That " it being already fo long a time fince the russes had " given them the expectation of regulating the affairs of " the frontiers, conform to the treaties concluded be-" tween the two empires, without their taking the lead " thought of bringing things to a clofe, his Majefty had " come to a refolution not to admit any caiavan be-" fore he fhould be fully fatisfied, on the part of rus-" sia, of their adherence to treaties; and, as thereby " my refidence at his court became quite unneceflary " his Majefty faw nothing that Ihould oblige him ta " keep me longer in his empire. That, in regard to *■ what paffed at urga, the Tufb-du-Chan had good " reafons for removing our people from his refidence, *' who had committed great infolencies, no ways con-" form to treaties. That, as to what regarded the ill f ufage which I pretended the caravan had fuffered, " he did not well know of what I fpoke; but, as to " their being kept (hut up a longer time than ordina-" ry, it was our own fault, who would have made in-" novations in the trade of the caravans. In fine, in one " word, that his Majefty was tired of receiving the law,
in
Mr. DE LANGE. " in his own country, from foreigners, of whom his " fubjects reaped no profit; and, that, if the court of ? russia delayed longer doing him juftice, he fhould " be obliged to do it himfelf, by fuch ways as he Ihould P find moft convenient" Upon which I replied, ** That " I was much furprifed to find the Bogdoi-Chan in a " difpofition fo little favourable towards his Czariih " Majefty, after he had the goodnefs to teftify himfelf, " on more than one occafion, to Mr. de ismayloff, " that he defired nothing more than always to live in a good underftanding with the Czar, my mafter; and " that I could not conceive what caufed his change of " fentiments fo fuddenly, with regard to his Czarifh " Majefty. That if the court of china had reftituti-v ons to demand from us, we had the like to expect " from them; and that, in any fhape, there was no rea-" fon that could, in juftice, oblige us to reftore their u deferters, fo long as they retained ours. That if the " indulgence of the Czar, my mafter, in the affair of " albazin*, had raifed ralh hopes in any perfons, who
* Albazin was a little town of about the year 171;, the Eaftern mongalls,
500 or 600 houfes, which the russes had fupported by the Chinese, befieged it, and,
built in a very fertile country, upon the fouth having carried it after a liege of two years,
fide of the river amoor, near the mouth rafed it to die ground, •f die river albazin. But at die end of
r p 2 a:e
3oo • JOURNAL   O F
m a y* H are informed of the forces of russia, and of the 1722. « monarch who reigns over them, I was perfwaded, that
v~*rv*><-;« a monarch fo enlightened, as was the Bogdoi-Chan, " would not fulfer himfelf to be blinded by fuch delu-" five appearances; and that he knew full well how to " diilinguilh an indulgence, arifing from magnanimicy iS and cftcem, for a prince his friend and ally, from a for-" ced compliance, grounded on weaknefs and indolence. " That as I had, in my inftructions, orders to apply my " utmoft endeavours for the prcfervation of the good " underftanding between the two empires, I thought I " might tell him, that I was exceedingly furprifed at " the proceedings of the Chinese miniftry, on this oc-" cafion; that he could not be ignorant that it depend-" cd only on his Czariih Majefty to finilh the war with " Sweden, in the moft honourable manner; and that " perhaps this peace was actually made at the time I " was fpeaking to him; after which, I law nothing that " could prevent the Czar, my mafter, from turning his " arms to this fide, in cafe they exercifed his patience " too much. That I gave him my word, that all the " great difficulties, which perhaps might be imagined n in china to attend fuch an enterprife, would vanifh « immediately, if ever his Czariih Majefty Ihould re-
folve
Mr. DE LANGE. " folve on tranfporting himfelf to the frontiers; for he " was a Prince that did not fufTer himfelf to be hin-" dered by difficulties; and that they might then have " fufficient caufe to repent their having defpifed the " friendQiip of a monarch who was not accuftomed to il receive offences with impunity, and who was inferior " to no monarch in the world, neither in grandeur nor
w o
u power." This difcourfe was not at all to the Ale-gada's tafle; therefore, after fome filence, he demanded of me, " If I was authorifed to talk to him in the M manner I did? and if I was not apprehenfive of being-" difavowed by the court of russia, in cafe they fhould " make complaint upon the menaces I ufed to them?,> I thereupon replied to him, " That, in the flate to " which I faw affairs were brought, I thought it necef-" fary not to difguife any thing to him, to the end that: " the Bogdoi-Chan, faithfully informed by him, of all he " had to confider for and againft this affair, might there-' H by be the better enabled to determine with himfelf, li thereupon, in a manner fuitable to his great wifdonr " and juftice. That neverthelefs it was wrong to take " what I had faid on this occafion for menaces, feeing " they were only mere reflections, which I was defirous> " he fhould make on the unhappy confluences which
" the
jot JOURNAL OF
may. " tne difdainful conduct they mowed, in regard to us, 1722. «• might in time produce; and that I was fo little ap-
*k-/"V">^;" prehenfive of being difavowed by the court of rus-" si a, that I was ready to give him in writing every " word I had faid to him; and that it would be the " greateft fervice he could render me, to fpeak out of *« hand concerning it to the Bogdoi-Chan, the more as " I was well affured, that, if they would give the leafl " attention to the irregular manner in which they had " acted in this affair, with a friendly and allied power, " they would not fail of comprehending that my in-" tentions were fincere, and only had for its aim the pre-" fervation of the harmony between the two empires." The anfwer of the minifter to this was, " That it be-" ing his Majefty*s cuftom never to take any refolution, " without firft well weighing all circumftances, he ne-" ver changed his meafures for any reafon whatfoever; « and, after what he had declared pofitively, in regard " to the caravan and my perfon, he had no inclination " to propofe to him a change of fentiment in this re-" gard. That we had nothing to do but to make a * beginning in complying with our engagements; af-" ter which they would fee what they had to do as to " {he reit."   Upon which I concluded, by telling him,
« That
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 303 " That the cafe being fo, I faw plainly, that it was in MAY. M vain, on our fide, to ufe more endeavours for preferv- 1722. " ing the good understanding between the two empires, {~r^><J *f as long as they would contribute nothing towards ic " on their fide; that therefore the game mull: go on, " feeing the dice were thrown already.   That however " I had, at leaft, the fatisfacfion of having done my " duty in advertifing him, as firft minifter of the Bog-*! doi-Chan, of the unhappy confequences which would " enfue from all this; and that was the fole reafon " which made me think it abfolutely neceffary, for me 4t to give him the trouble of this vifit."   After which I rofe up and took leave of him.   On parting he reconducted me to the entrance of the faloon, where he flayed till I was mounted on horfeback.
The fame day I was likevvife to take leave of the Poyamba, or great marthal of the court; and, after having returned him thanks, which were truly due to him, for all the goodnefs which he had fhowed to me ever fince the firft moment I had the honour of being known to him. I profited myfelf of the prefent opportunity, to reprefent fuccinclly to him the fame things which I had reprefented to the Alegada, He thereupon alfured me, " That he was forry to fee that
" the
§04 JOURNAL OF
m a y. " tne luccefs of my negotiations did not anfwer my 1722. « wilhes. 'That it was true, that the Bogdoi-Chan was
V*>^^" very much piqued that he faw there was no end " made to the affair of the defcrters; and that he had " certain advice, that our court had no defire to fitis-** fy him on this article; and that we only fought to *' protract time: that it was on thefe confiderations *• that he had been prevailed on, by the miniftry, to " order my return. That, for his part, he was afto-" niftied to fee that our court could hefitate a moment " to facrifice fome hundreds of families, who were in " the utmoft poverty, to the folid advantages which we " might promife ourfelves, from the friendihip which " the Bogdoi-Chan had conceived for the perfon of the " Czar my mafter; and he made no manner of doubt, " but that, if the Czar had been well informed of the " juftice of the pretenfions of the court of chin'a, and " the little importance of that affair, he would inftantly " have given orders for reftoring the families reclaim-" ed." I would have had him confider the diftance of the places, and that it was in a manner impoffible that an anfwer could have arrived from st. Petersburg, on this affair, fince the departure of Mr. de ismayloff. But he flopped my mouth by telling me, " That he
* could
Mr.    D E   LANGE. 305 " could not fay precifely what the diftance was, but he M Ay. " knew very well, that, on other occafions, our couri- 1722. " ers had made the journey in much lefs time. ThatL/'"V'XJ " he advifed me to do my beft in this affair, when I *' fhould arrive on the frontiers; and that he could af-*' fure me, that when the Bogdoi-Chan was made eafy " on this point, he would explain himfelf very reafon-" ably on all the reft of what we fhould wiffi to have 11 done; that however, as to myfelf, I had caufe to " be well fatisfied with the fentiments the court enter-" tained of me; and that his Majefty had himfelf de-" clared, that, in cafe affairs fhould come to be accom-" modated, he would not be forry to fee me return to " pekin/'
The 16th, I went to pay my court to the Bogdoi-Chan, upon his departure from pekin to pafs the fummer at jegcholl, but had not the honour of fpeak-ing to him at this time; his Majefty letting me know, by the mafter of the ceremonies, " That he recom-11 mended the fame thing to me which he had charged w Mr. de ismayloff with, to tell his Czariih Majefty*.
* When Mr. de ismayloff had his main at pekin, in quality of agent of the
audience of leave of the late Emperor of court of russia, expecting that Mr. de
china, this monarch declared exprefsly, ismayloff would, on his return, pre-
*hat he would permit Mr. de LANGB to re- vail with his Czarifh Majefty to fend back
Vol. II. (^q " That,
306 JOURNAL OF
MAY. H That, for the reft, he wifhed me a good journey; 1722. " and expected that I would not fail to write from the
k*/~v~SkJ« frontiers, in cafe I fhould there be informed of any " news from Europe."
A little before I received the meffage from his Majefty I had an interview with the Allegamba, who, after an infinite deal of carefftng and flattery, begged of me to labour, as much as poflible, to forward the returning their deferters; at the fame time adding," That 11 the Bogdoi-Chan had great reliance on me in regard " to this affair; in expectation, that, according to all " appearances, I would not be backward to return foon " to china, either on the fubject in qucftion, or on " the fubject of commerce." I affured him thereupon, " That his Czarifh Majefty, having fubjects in abun-" dance, had at no time the leaft temptation to keep w the vafllils of neighbouring powers unjuftly.1' And I promifed, at the fame time, to write to him, if, at my arrival on the frontiers, I fhould learn that any refolution was taken on this affair. Afterwards I demanded
the deferted families in cjueflion ; but, in    ButMr.de ismayloff, on bis arrival at cafe that Ihould not be cifccled inftantly, he    mosco, found the court fo bud ly employed would not only fend away the faid agent,    about the expedition to pers j a, that he but would receive no more caravans, till    found no opportunity of getting a final refo— .!v. fnould be entirely futisfied on diis article,    lution on. this affair.
of
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 307 of him, " For what reafon they refufed conveyance of MAYt " the letters which were on the frontiers."   At the 1722. fame time I led him to imagine fome appearance thatv"/"V'">0' thofe letters bore fomething relating to their affair. Whereupon he anfwered me, " That, if it was poffiblc
i
" to believe it to be fo, he would not make the leaf! " difficulty of inflantly ordering the letters to be " brought hither; but that, if they contained orders " for the rendering back their deferters, they would " not have failed to communicate the fame to the " Mandarin, who kept himfelf at selinginsky purely " on that affair."
At length, not feeing any appearance of being able to prolong my flay at pekin till the recal of his Czarifh Majefty, I preffed the commiflary to neglect, nothing that might facilitate his departure as foon as poffible; and thereupon he difpatched beforehand,
On the 25th, a part of his baggage for krasna-gora, which is a place, a day's journey without the Great Wall, appointed for the rendezvous of all the caravan; On this occafion they did not give a guard of chinese foldiers to the caravan, as had been formerly pracfifed ; but they had ordered all the towns, where they fhould flop, to give them guards;
q 2 befides
3o3 JOURNAL OF
june. befides which, there was a Bonska, or courier of the 1722. council of the affairs of the mongalls, ordered to at-
V"/^*V~Nw'tend the baggage, who was not to leave them without a new order.
J U N" E.
The 6th, a Mandarin, named tulishin, let me know, that, having received orders from the Bogdoi-Chan to accompany me to selinginsky, and to furnifh provifions and pofl-horfes on the road, he would be glad to be informed when I thought I fhould be ready to depart; that he might take his meafures accordingly, and difpatch in good time the couriers neceffary for the deferts, to make the requifite difpofitions for my paffage.
The 8th, the commifTary went to the council, to demand a guard for the caravan; but they granted none; acquainting him, at the fame time, that the Mandarin tulishin was alfo charged with the care of the caravan; and that, as he would be obliged frequently to leave the route of the caravan, for providing victuals and horfes which I Ihould have occafion for on my journey, he was to have with him a clerk and two couriers, under his command, who were not. to leave the
caravan
Mr.   D E   LANGE. 30^ caravan before they ihould fafely arrive at selin- jtjne,
GIN sky. I722.
The fame day, 36 carriages were difpatched, laden ^/~V^VtJ with merchandife, for the place of rendezvous, without any other efcort than fome of our own people, and a courier of the council.
The 1 6th, the Allegamba invited me to come to him at the palace of the Bogdoi-Chan; and, when I arrived, he prefented me with two pieces of damask, on the part of the Chan; telling me, " That his Ma-" jetty having received prefents from me, on the en-u trance of the new year, he was pleafed, in his turn, " to make me a prefent of thefe two pieces of da-" mask." I received this prefent with all due refpecr; alluring this minifter, that I Ihould eternally cherifh the remembrance of all the gracious favours which the Boedoi-Chan had deigned to honour me with, during my refidence in his empire ; and that, in whatever place I Ihould be, in time to come, I would never fail of making it a fubj eel of particular glory to me.
JULY.
The 4th, the Allegamba fent a Mandarin to me, to show me a letter, which he had very lately received from the Mandarin who refided at selinginsky, in which he
made
july. made heavy complaints of the chicaneries that he was 1722. forced to bear with, during his refidence in that place, "^^^as well from the officers of his Czarifh Majefty as the other inhabitants of that city; adding, " That every " body demanded of him perpetually, the reafon why he tarried there fo long, and if he did not intend " foon to return home.   That thereupon having de-" manded of them, if they had come to any refolution " on the affair which was the caufe of his being there, f they had anfwered him, that they had no other or-** ders but to conduct him back, with all civility, when " he fhould think proper to return."   He related befides in this letter, w That the allowance they gave " him, for the fubfiftence of himfelf and retinue, was *' fb very fcanty, that, if he had not had of his own " money wherewithal to fupply himfelf, he fhould " have been reduced to great extremities. They " had, befides, prefled him very hard on the fubject of " the letters, for the council and for me, that were ar-" rived on the frontiers; and they would, by force, ** know of him the reafon why he refufed to receive *' the letters, and to forward them to pekin; but that " he had always anfwered them, that, his fole errand to (t selinginsky being on the affair of the deferters, he
" could
Mr.   D E   LANGE. jtl " could not charge himfelf, either with letters, or any july. " other affair whatfoever."   After the Mandarin had 1722. explained to me the contents of this letter, he told *sy"v~>° me, that the Allegamba demanded to know of me, « Whether it was pofRble that all this could be done " by order of his Czariih Majefty."   I let him know,, in anfwer, " That if he had formed ideas of the per-" fon of the Czar, my mafter, by thofe paiTigcs, he " would do weir entirely to efface them; for that, as u his Czariih Majefty was more magnanimous than to " treat, in the manner there laid down, even prifoners* " of war in his dominions, he would certainly not be-" gin fo bad a practice with the fubjects of an em-" pire in amity with him, who came into his coun-" try."  I added, that notwithstanding I had reafon to complain of things of more confequence than this Mandarin, I was neverthelefs fo far from approving the want of complaifance ufed towards him, that, if the Allegamba thought fit to give me a copy of that letter, I was ready to take charge of it, and to make it my bufinefs that the Czar, my mafter, fhould be acquainted with it. But with regard to the orders, which this Mandarin hinted he was charged with, not to receive any letters, though even for the council itfelf,
before
312 JOURNAL OF
july. before he fhould receive the deferters in queftion, I 1722. could not help obferving that fuch a procedure befpoke
Vte/"V*^much coolnefs on their fide.
The 8 th, the Allegamba fent to me, in the evening, a Mandarin, who told me, after making me a compliment from him, that he would be, the next day, at the council; and that, if I had time to come there like-wife, he would explain the reafons which determined the court to refolve on my return*, and that he would give me the fame in writing. Upon which I told him, I fhould come there with great pleafure, that I might be informed of them.
The ofch, having notice that the Allegamba was al-ready arrived at the council, I forthwith mounted on horfeback to go there alfo. He came in perfon to receive me at the door, and defired me to place myfelf at a little table with him. After which he gave me to under-Hand, " That it were to be wifhed that my refidence " at that court might continue longer, as the Bogdoi-1 Chan himfelf, and all the miniflry in general, were fo " well fatisfied with the conduct I had obferved dur-" ing my refidence *, that they had nothing to fay a-" gainfl my perfon j that they had remarked, with *« much fatisfaction, that, by the good order I had kept,
" the
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 313 * the prefent caravan had begun and rimmed its com- july. " merce, without producing the lcaft difpute between 1722. " the merchants of the two nations *]   It had alfo " formerly been too ufual to fee the fervants and peo-" pie of the caravan do numberlefs infolcncies in the " ftreets, and commit all forts of excefles; but that, " for this time, they could not without furprife ob-" ferve that nothing of this fort had appeared; but " that every thing pahed with all defirable decency*^".
After I had paid this compliment by another, I told him, " That it was with intention of maintaining the " like good order, that his Czariih Majefty fent me to " china; and that it would be owing to themfelves, if a things, for the future, Ihould not be carried on in
* The Chinese ufually bought, from the trading with the Russian caravans,
caravan, goods on credit, for which, at the f The exceffes committed, by thofe of the
time when due, they could not pay ; which caravan, had been but too frequent till this
occafioned very frequent difputes between time ; and the commiffaries, in place of re-
the two nations; to remedy this, the court drefling thofe diforders, had been very often
of pekin had been accuftomed to put into themfelves the authors of them, without
the hands of the commiflary, at his depar- giving themfelves the trouble of making the
ture, all thofe who could not pay what they lcaft fatisfaelion for them to the Chinese,
were indebted to the caravan, in order that notwithftanding the great complaints to the
lie might compel them to pay as they belt Russian minifters thereupon on many oc-
could; in which cafes the commiflaries had cafions. In all appearance, what contributed
frequently committed great abufes, and principally to the good order obferved by
treated the poor Chinese, whom they had the ru s s-fet vants of this caravan, was their
in their cuftody, in the moft barbarous man- not getting brandy, at free coft, as they did
ner ; which very much difgufted the people when the Chinese furnilhed the fubfiftence
of pekin, and rendered them very averfe to for the caravan.
Vol. II.               R r                      " the
july. " tne fame order; and if any other petty incidents did 1722, " not come to an accommodation with the like eafe.'*
Vh/v^J After which, I prayed him to let me know the true fource of the diforders which happened, at u r g a, between the fubjects of the Czar, my mafter, and the mongalls; and i( wherefore they obliged the russia-" merchants to leave that place before they had finifh-* ed their trade." He anfwered me thereupon, " That " it was done by orders of the Tufh-du-Chan and his " council, as fupreme judges in their country." Upon which I demanded of him, " Whether the Tulh-¥ du-Chan was a fovereign prince of the mongalls, " or a fubj eel: of the Emperor of china?" He replied, " That, in truth, the Chan was a vaflal of the Bogdoi-Chan's; but that did not hinder his being mafter in *' his own country*."  I then prayed him to tell me, «' Whether the Tufh-du-Chan was obliged to conform *< himfelf to the engagement ftipulated by treaty, be-st tween the two empires, to the end, that I might
* Though the Chan of the Weftern yond comparifon much better foldiers than
mongalls is tributary to the Chinese, the mongall chinbse, infomuch, that, if
they have neverthelefs a great regard for he fhould be difobliged, and fhould join him-
him at the court of china; the more, as felf to the Kalmucks, or to the russes,
he is a very powerful prince, and, that in nothing could prevent his entrance into chi-
cafe of a revolt in china, it is from him na when he pleafed, and probably bring a-
4hat the prefent imperial houfe is to expedl bout another revolution. She grcatcft aflttUnce J his fubj.e&s being bc-
{C know
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 315 ** know if we ought to addrefs the court at pekin, on jULY, " the fubject of fatisfaction we had to demand on that 1722. " affair? or were to take it of the Tufh-du-Chan? as^^^ ** it was not to be expected that affair would be let <c pafs without an exact inquiry.   That, for my part, " I thought the belt means of terminating that affair *' amicably, was, that they mould order the Mandarin, c( who was to accompany me on the journey, to go " with me to urga, in our way to selinginsky; to " the end, that, after having full information of this " affair, I might be able to fend a circumltantial ac-
V count of it to our miniftry." But he anfwered me thereupon in thefe terms, M With us no judge who *' hath given a juft fentence can be made refponfible c< for his judgement, was he no more than a mere " clerk. Your people who were at urga have affront-" ed the lamas, as well by words as deeds; and they
have, moreover, attempted to carry off fome mon-
V gall families from thofe quarters; it is for this reafon *( that the Tulh-du-Chan was in the right to remove
them from his territories." I anfwered him thereupon, " That this judge ought, molt certainly, to ren-M der account of his judgment, becaufe he had judged " people who were no manner of way under his jurif-
R r 2 " diction;
316 JOURNAL OF
july. " diction; but he would have acted with juftice if, af-1722. « ter having fent the culpable to selinginsky, he had « profecuted for fatisfaction at that place. Whereas, " now that he hath punifhed the innocent equally with " the guilty, and hath infringed the treaty of peace in " fo effential an article, his judgment cannot be re-" garded but as a manifeft act of violence." The Al-*' legamba, finding me infift fo ftrenuoufly for an inqui-u ry into this affair, fmiling, told me, " Mr. Agent " you do well to make fo much work about this affair, 44 but I do not know how to explain myfelf more pre-" cifely upon it at prefent; all that I can fay to you is, " that all of it will be eafily accommodated when we M fhall receive a fatisfactory anfwer upon the affair of " our dcferters." After which he prefented me a writing, which he faid had been drawn up by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to ferve for my information regarding the rcafons of my being fent away. Upon which we again entered into difpute together; but as thefe gentlemen, on thefe occafions,hold themfelves ftrictly tied down to a Angle word, whether effential to the affair they are upon or not, it was impoffible for me to draw from him any other anfwer, than that they had not defigned to grant my remaining at pekin longer than the time of the
" prefent
Mr. DE LANGE. 317 prefent caravan; and, that when the affair of the fron- jtjly. tiers fhould be accommodated, they would not be want- 1722, ing to give a definitive refolution, as well upon this^"7^^ article, as upon the other propofitions which Mr. de ismayloff had made to the court. He afterwards preferred to me a letter, faying it was wrote by order of the Bogdoi-Chan, to Prince cherkasky, governor general of Siberia*; but I having refufed to receive the faid letter, it difpleafed him a little and made him fay, " That it was hardly civil in me to refufe a letter, " which the Emperor, his mafter, had ordered to be " written, and to be put into my hands." I anfwered thereupon, " That I would not chufe to do what I did " on this occafion, if the letters which the faid Prince " cherkasky, in quality of governor general of sibe-" ria, had wrote to the council, were not likewife writ-" ten by the order of the Czar, my mafter. That he " could give this letter to the Mandarin, who was to " accompany me to selinginsky, with orders to re-" ceive the letters for the court which were lying there; " and, that being done, I fhould not then make the leaft " difficulty to receive the laid letter." He declared to
* The Prince cherkasky, governor his own follicitations; and they afterwards general of Siberia, was recalled by the fent thither a perfon in quality of vice go-court of russia, in the year 1722, upon   rcrnor, who remains there Hill.
me
3 iS JOURNAL OF
July. me afterwards, that it was the pleafure of the Bogdoi-1722, Chan that I mould take jegcholl in my way, to have
^^^my audience of leave of his Majefty. And again re-fuming the article of the letter from the court for the Prince cherkasky, he told me, " That what I had " done on this occafion was not altogether fo right; " feeing it was not allowed to any perfon, when in chi-" na, to oppofe themfelves to the will of the Empe-" ror." Upon which I anfwered him, " That I was per-" fuaded his Majefty would put a different conftructi-" on on this affair, from what he did." But that I wifh-cd, in my turn, to know from him, " Upon what he " grounded his fufpicions, when he refufed us, the laft " fpring, the paffage to the deferts for fome of our " people, whom we would have fent with money to " provide fubfiftence for our horfes; and, that under " the pretext, that by fuch expeditions fecret corref-" pondence might be carried on, which might produce " mifunderftandings between the two empires." Thereupon he faid, " That in reality he had no fuch fuipi-" cions; but that he would willingly prevent the difor-" ders, which might have happened on the journey of u thefe people; feeing, that if they had been robbed, " or affaffinated on the road, we would not have fail-
" ed
Mr,   DE   LANGE. 319
" cd to demand fatisfaction from the court." There- JULY> upon I put him in mind, * That he was now brought 1722. " to explain himfelf; that it was not to hinder fecret^"v~VJ " correfpondence that he refufed us paffage, and that " he might very well have fpared himfelf that ufelefs " precaution, as to what regarded us; which had cauf-" ed us an expence of fome thoufands of laen, for not " being able to put our horfes into ftables, to which " purpofe the money we wanted to fend to the deferts " was appropriated; and had occafioned the death of a " great many horfes; and even thofe that furvived were " in fuch a miferable condition that they were by no " means capable of ferving in the waggons; which o-V bliged our commiflary to tranfport the greateft part 11 of his baggage to selinginsky by carriages hired at *' pekin, which could not be done but at a very confi-" derable charge." This anfwer made him a little thoughtful; but at length he replied to me, " That 11 he did not fay fo, but, be it fo or not, we muft now " part good friends; to which end he prayed me to " have no ill-will towards him upon account of the li-" berty he had taken to trifle and jeft with me on the " fubject of the letter from tursoff ; that he could " affure me he had no ill intention on that occafion;
" and
JOURNAL OF " and hoped that I would be fatisfied with this expla-. " nation, and not think otherwife of that affair, in " time to come, than as a piece of innocent raillery." To which I anfwered him, " That, as to what regarded " myfelf in particular, he might depend that I mould " abfolutely think no more of it; but, for the reft, I " could not do in it according to my own pleafure." Whereupon he asked me, if, at my return to russia, I fhould be obliged to give a relation, in writing, to our miniftry, of every thing that paffed, during my refidence in china, in regard to my negociations; and, having anfwered him yes, he faid to me, that, in this cafe, I would do well not to infcrt a number of trifling things, which could anfwer no good end, but might embroil matters more; for that it was much better that a good underftanding between the two empires fhould continue, than that differences between them fhould be widened. I replyed thereupon, that, not having been fent to the court of pekin as an inftru-ment for creating mifunderftandings, I would make it my bufinefs, in my relation, not to touch upon any things but fuch as it was neceffary for our court to be informed of. After which we both rofe up, and having
Mr.   DE   LANGE. 321 ing mutually embraced, we took leave of each other, jtjly. reciprocally wilhing to meet again foon. 1722.
The 1 2th, the commiflary having left pekin, with^^"^ all the reft of the caravan, I likewife departed for jegcholl, where I arrived on the 15th; and having forthwith made known my arrival to the chamberlain of the Chan, he let me know he would inftantly inform his Majefty; and, till he fhould receive his orders for appointing the day of my audience, the intendant of his Majefty's kitchen would take care that my table fhould be furnifhed with every thing I might have occafion for.
The 17th, I had my audience of leave of the Bogdoi-Chan, with the ceremonies ufual at this court.
The 18 th, I left jegcholl, and met the caravan the 24th; which being ftill within the Great Wall, I paired it, the 26th, with the caravan, which I left, on the 28th, near krasna-gora in the deferts. And, on the 26th of Auguft, 1722, I arrived at selinginsky, after having refided near 17 months at the court of china.
Vol. II.
Ss
A SUC-
A
succinct relation
OF MY
JOURNEY
T O
d   e  r  b   e   n t
i n
persia,
with
THE  ARMY  OF RUSSIA
COMMANDED BY
his  imperial majesty
peter the fisrt,
IN THE YEAR M.DCC.XXII.
a
SUCCINCT RELATION
OF MY
journey
t O
d e r b e n tv
TJPON my return with the embaffy from pekin, as hath been formerly mentioned, I found his Imperial Majefty, all the court, the general officers, and the nobility and gentry, from all the empire, affembled at mosco•, and great preparations making, at that city, for the celebration of the feftivals, appointed to be folemnized there, on account of the peace, concluded at aland in 1721, between russia and Sweden, after a war which had lafted more than twenty years.
Thefe feftivals were accompanied with mafquerades, grand lire-works, balls, affemblies, &c. the detail of which, though it would fwell this work to too large a bulk, yet I think it will not be unacceptable to the reader, briefly to relate one part of it, I mean the magnificent fcows exhibited on this occafion; which I am induced
to
325 1722.
326 A JOURNEY
1722. to by the confideration, which at that time ftruck me, V^V%^"of peter the Great his having always in view, even in his amufements, and times of diverfion, all poilible means of influencing his people to a liking of whatever tended to promote the good of his empire.
The r u s s 1 a n s, in general, had a ftrong averflon to fhipping and maritime affairs. In order to apprife them of the great advantages arifing from a marine force, in his triumphant entry into mosco, he repre-fented to his people that the peace, the rejoicings for which were now celebrating, was obtained by means of his naval ftrength.
The triumphant entry was made from a village, a-bout feven miles from mosco, called seswedsky.
The firft of the cavalcade was a galley, finely carved and gilt, in which the rowers plied their oars as on the water. The galley was commanded by the high admiral of russia. Then came a frigate, of 16 fmall brafs-guns, with three mails, completely rigged, manned with twelve or fourteen youths, habited like dutch skippers, in black velvet, who trimmed the fails, and performed all the manoeuvres as of a fliip at fea. Then came moft richly decorated barges, wherein fat the Emprefs and the ladies of the court. There were alfo pilot-boats, heaving
TO   DERBENT. 327 ing the lead, and above thirty other veffels, pinnaces, iy22. wherries, &c. each filled with mafqueraders in the dref- ^V*^ fes of different nations.  It was in the month of February, at which time all the ground was covered with fnow, and all the rivers frozen.   All thefe machines were placed on fledges, and were drawn, by horfes, through all the principal ftreets of mosco.  The Ihip required above forty horfes to draw it.   In order to its parting under the gates, the top-mafts were ftruck; and, when palTed, fet up again; befides which, the gate-way was dug as low as was neceffary for admitting it to» pafs.
Thefe feftivals being ended, his Imperial Majefty prepared to undertake an expedition into persia, at the earneft requeft of shach hussein, the Sophy of Persia, in order to aftift that prince againft the aff-ghans, his rebellious fubjects, who, under the conduct:, firft, of myrvais, afterwards, of myr mahmut, had not only feized upon the city and ftrong fortrefs chandahar; but alfo, had pollened themfelves of feveral provinces, on the frontiers, towards india; making frequent in-curfions towards the capital of Ispahan. As I had formerly been at the court of persia, I was engaged by my friend Doctor blumentrost, his Majefty*s
chief
328 A JOURNEY
1722. chief phyfician, to accompany him in that expedition. I \*/~Y~\j Accordingly, about the beginning of May, 172 2, all things neceflary being in readinefs, the troops embarked at mosco, on board of half-gallies, built for that purpofe, and fell down the river to kolumna ; near which town the Mosco-river falls into the oka, about ninety verfts from the city of mosco. Kolumna was the place of rendezvous, and where the troops waited till the arrival of his Imperial Majefty and the Emprefs, his con-fort, who accompanied him in this expedition.
May 1 3 th, their Majefties, and all thofe of the court who were appointed to attend them in this expedition, fet out from mosco by land, and arrived the next day at kolumna.
The 1 5th, his Majefty employed himfelf in reviewing the troops, in infpecting the condition of the fleet, and in giving the neceflary orders. The fleet confifted of about three hundred fail of veffels, of all forts, on board of which were about fifteen thoufand regular troops, including half the guards.
The 16th, in the evening, his Majefty and the Emprefs, attended by a few ladies, went, on board a magnificent galley, of forty oars, with all proper accommodations, built on purpofe for the voyage.
The
TO   D E R B E N'T. 329
The 17th, at break of day, the fignal was given, by 1722. firing three great guns from his Majefty's galley, for^^XJ the fleet to get under fail. The galley led the way, and all the reft of the fleet followed in a line. His Majefty's galley carried the ftandard of russia, the o-ther veffels their enfigns difplayed, with drums beating, and mufic playing; which altogether made an appearance, perhaps, not to be equalled in any other country. In about an hour's time we came into the river oka, where the veiTels had more room to fpread.
Having, in my former journey to persia, mentioned the feveral places from hence to astraciian, I need not repeat them here.
I have formerly noted, that, at this feafon of the year, the rivers of thefe parts may, in fome meafurc, be compared to the NILE; for, from the melting of the fnow, they overflow all the flat grounds adjacent to a very great diftancc.
The 2 1 ft, fome of our people going afhore, to take leave of their friends, did not return on board till late in the evening; which caufed our being at fome di-ftance behind the fleet; upon which we ufed our beft efforts to regain our ftation ; but, in the night, our pilot falling afleep, the bark drove out of the channel of
Vol. II. T t the
330 A JOURNEY
1722. the river into a wood. I, being in the cabbin, heard a Vw/"VVJ great noife upon deck, not unufual on fuch occafions; at laft I perceived the veffel to ftrike againft fome-thing, when, coming upon deck, I was not a little fur-prifed to fee the people climbing up trees; for the bark was jambed in between two birch-trees of very large fize. All our endeavours could neither move her backwards nor forwards, until we got people from a neighbouring village, by whofe aififtance we got her warped off with little damage; which being repaired, we proceeded again on our voyage.
The 25th, we came up with the fleet at the town nishna-novogorod; where their Majefties and all the court were moft fumptuoufly entertained at the houfe of Baron strogonoff. We ftaid here fome days to* take in provifions and other neceffaries.
The 30th, being his Majefty's birth-day, the fame was folemnized, in the ufual manner, by firing guns, &c.
The 31ft, his Majefty failed in his galley for cazan, efcorted by fome of the fmall gallies, leaving the reft of the fleet under the command of the lord high admiral apraxin.
June 5th, we left nishna-novogorod, and, in fine calm weather, proceeded down the volga.
The
TO DERBENT.
The 8th, we arrived at the city of cazan; the Emperor had left that place the preceding day.
The cjth, we again proceeded on our voyage.
The 20th, we arrived at the town of saratoff. Nothing very material occurred by the way, in which we were fome times detained by ftrong gales of fouth-erly winds, and by calms, during which we were incommoded by infinite numbers of muskito-flies.
At this place we came up with the Emperor, who had appointed an interview with the Ayuka-Chan, King of the Kalmucks; the Chan, for that purpofe, had his tents pitched on the eaft banks of the volga, not far from the river.
Next day, his Majefty invited the Ayuka-Chan and his Queen to dinner on board the galley; which, for the accommodation of the royal guefts in getting on board, was brought as near the fhore as poftible, and a gallery made from the fhore to the galley for them to walk on.
The Ayuka-Chan came on horfeback, attended by two of the princes his fons, and efcorted by a troop of about fifty of his officers and great men, all exceedingly well mounted. About twenty yards from the fhore the King alighted from his horfe, and was received by
T t 2 a privy-
332 A JOURNEY
tjo 2   a privy-counfellor and an officer of the guards. When
o^W>the Emperor faw him advancing, he went on fhore, fa-luted him, and, taking him by the hand, conducted him on board the galley; where he introduced him to the Emprefs, who was fea ted on the quarter-deck, under a very rich awning.
Soon after the Ayuka-Chan was got on board the galley, the Queen arrived on the fhore, in a covered wheel-machine, attended by one of the princefTes her daughter, and two ladies, who were alfo efcorted by a troop of horfemen. When fhe was alighted, the Emperor went on fhore to receive her, and, conducting her on board, introduced her to the Emprefs.
The Ayuka-Chan is an old man, about feventy years of age, yet is hearty and chearful. He is a prince of great wifdom, and prudent conduct:, is much refpected by all his neighbours for his flncerity and plain-dealing. And I recollect, that, when I was at pe-kin, the Emperor of china made very honourable mention of him. By his long experience, he is very well acquainted with the flate of affairs in the eaft.
The Queen was about fifty years old, of a decent and chearful deportment; the ladies, her attendants, were young; theprincefs, in particular, hath a fine complexion ;
TO   DERBENT. 333. plexion; her hair, a jet-black, which was difpofed in Xy22. treiTes round her moulders; and Ihe was, in the eyes of^"V~w the Kalmucks, a complete beauty. They were all richly dreffed in long robes of Persian brocade, with little round caps, on the upper part of their heads, bordered with fable-fur, according to the fafhion of the country.
The Emperor intimated to the Ayuka-Chan, that he would be defirous of ten thoufand of his troops to1 accompany him into persia. The King of the Kalmucks replied, that ten thoufand were at the Emperor's fervice, but that he thought one half of that number would be more than fuflicient to anfwer all his pur-pofes^ and immediately gave orders for five thoufand to march directly, and join the Emperor at terky.
Both the Emperor and Emprefs were highly pleafed with their guefts; and, in the evening, difmifled' them with fuitable prefents. The Emprefs gave the Queen a gold repeating-watch, fet with diamonds, which feemed very much to take her fancy, befides fome pieces of brocade, and other filks of value.
It is well worth remarking, that this treaty, between' two mighty monarchs, was begun, carried on, and concluded, in lefs fpace of time than is ufually employed,
by
334 A JOURNEY
1722. by the plenipotentiaries of our weftern European mo-<*^V^ narchs, in taking a dinner.
The 22d, we left saratoff, and failed down the river volga, with a fair wind.
The 23 d, in the evening, we came to the town of kamoshinka, where we remained till the next morning.
The 28th, we came to the town of zaritzina; and the 30th, to another town called tzorno-yarr.
July 4th, we arrived at the city of as track an. Little remarkable occurred during the voyage. We were fome times detained by contrary winds j and, for the moft part of the way, were much incommoded by muskitoes, which plagued us much in the day-time, and interrupted our reft during the night.
The 5th, the weather being exceffive hot, the Emperor quitted his houfe in the city, and went to lodge in one of the adjacent vineyards.
The 6th, the dragoons, whom we found encamped on the weft bank of the volga, to the number of five thoufand, were ordered to march directly to terky; there to wait the Emperor s arrival.
The 8th, the lord high admiral apraxin arrived with the fleet and troops on board.  The next day the
troops
TO   DERBENT. 335 troops encamped on one of the iilands in the neigh- 1722. bourhood. C/V\J
During our ftay at astrachan nothing of moment occurred.
The 16th, all the neceffary preparations being completed, the troops re-imbarked, and lay on board that night.
The 17th, the Emperor, Emprefs, and all the court went on board; and, the wind being fair, failed down the river; drums beating, and mufic playing. The fleet was in feveral divifions, under their refpective chiefs; and, being joined by a number of large tranf-ports, and other veflels, made a very grand appearance; fuch as had never been feen before in this part of the world, nor frequently in any other.
The 18 th, the wind being contrary, we made but flow progrefs. In the evening it fell calm; all the fhoals being covered with high reeds, contributed to increafe the innumerable quantity of muskitoes, with which we were intollerably peftered.
The 19th, we got out of the river volga into the Caspian fea. The wind being contrary, the heavy tranfports were warped out as far as poffible, to get out of the reach of thofe troublefome infects. At
night
336 A JOURNEY
1722. night we came to an anchor, in eight feet water, near ^y^\Ja flat ifland called tuleny-lapata.
The 20th,we continued warping out the whole day. At night we came to an anchor, near the four fandy hillocks called tzateerey-bucgory.
The 2 1 ft, at break of day, the admiral made fignal for failing; the fleet got under fail, and put out to fea, with a fair wind.
The Emperor, accompanied with the half-gallies, on board which were the troops, fleered to the weft, clofe under the fhore. But I being on board one of the large lhips, we kept the fea, and fleered a direct courfe for terky. It is to be obferved, that the Emperor and the gallics took their courfe to avoid being liable to be furprifed with a gale of wind at fea, which might have been attended with bad confequences.
The 2 2d, we came into fait water, four fathoms deep, out of fight of land, and alfo of the gallies.
The 23d, we had calms, and eafy breezes at N. W.
The 24th, in the evening, we came to an anchor in the road of terky.
The 25th, the Emperor and all the gallies arrived fafe.
The 26th, the Emperor went aftiore; and, having
vifited
TO   DERBENT. 337 vifited the town and fortifications, returned on board 1722* in the evening. L/"V">w>
The town of terky is a frontier ftrongly fituated by nature, being encompafled by a deep marfhy ground, having only one entrance to it, on the land-fide, which is well-defended by batteries. It takes its name from a fmall rivulet, running by it, called terk. It is governed by a commandant, and hath a garrifon of about one thoufand men, of regular troops and cossacks; and is, at all times, well-ftored with ammunition and provifions. This place is of fingular ufe for keeping the tzercassian mountaineers in order, who are well known to be an unruly and reftlefs people. I fhall hereafter have occafion to fpeak more of this nation.
The fame day, the Emperor fent an officer to the Aldiggerey, commonly called Shaff kal, to notify his arrival in thefe parts. The Shaff kal is a prince of confiderable authority among the mountaineers, and a friend to the Russians.
The 27th, the fleet weighed anchor, and failed, fouth by eaft, to the bay of agrachan, fo called from a river of that name. In the evening, we anchored in the bay, as near the fhore as was judged convenient.
The 28th, the imperial ftandard was fet up on the
Vol. II. Uu fhore;
338 A JOURNEY
1722. fhore; all the troops landed and encamped. The
v-/~v'^Jfame day, a cos sack arrived in the camp, with dif-patches from General veteranie, who commanded a body of dragoons, giving an account, that, in his march, he was attacked by a ftrong party of mountaineers, near the town called andrea; that, after a fmart difpute, in which feveral of each fide had been killed, and fome wounded, he at laft difperfed them, and took poffeftion of the town. Thefe people having previoufly fent all their families and effects to fome diftance into the mountains, it feems this ralh attempt of thefe mountaineers was premeditated, for the general demanded nothing but a free paflage through the country, and engaged to leave them unmolefted. The place itfelf is of no defence, though they had barrica-doed the ftreets and avenues leading to it. The poor people felt, to their coft, the effects of attacking regular troops, of which they had never feen any before. However, this was a certain proof of the boldnefs of thefe people. Several of them were brought prifoners to the camp *, they were ftrong able-bodied men, fit for any fervice.
The Emperor, before he left astracman, had fent manifeftos to all the petty princes and chiefs of dagce-
stan,
TO   DERBENT, 339 s tan, declaring, that he did not come to invade or make 1 y 2 2. war againft them; that he only defired a free paflage ^/VXJ through their territories, and would pay ready money for what provifions, or other neceffaries, they might furnifh, and that to the full value; to which fome of them agreed, others of them did not; fuch is often the cafe with free independent ftates, as are thofe of the daggestan.
The 20th and 30th were fpent in landing the provifions, artillery, &c. after which the whole army and baggage were tranfported, on boats and rafts, to the eaft bank of the river agrachan. This proved a work of labour, there being no woods at hand to make a bridge, nor water enough, at the mouth of the river, to admit our half gallies, which were defigned for the bridge.
The army being tranfported over, and encamped on the other fide of the river, the Emperor made a plan, and ordered a fmall fortrefs to be raifed; he named it agrachan, from the river on which it was built. This place was intended to keep fuch ftores as we could not conveniently carry along with us; and as a place of retreat in cafe of unforefeen accidents.
Auguft 2d, the chief named Aldiggerey came to
U u 2 pay
340 A   JOUR NET
1722. Pay his refpects to the Emperor, who gave him a gn> v*/'V~V>,cious reception; as he did to feveral other chiefs, of lefs note, who came in a friendly manner. The Ah diggcrey was accompanied by a fmall troop of his principal officers; moft of them were handfome young fellows, very well mounted. After this chief had ftaid fome hours, and fettled matters relating to the march7 he took his leave.
In the mean time, the foldiers were employed in raifing the works of the fortrefs; and ten thoufand cossacks arrived from the river don, all horfemen, under command of krasnotzokin and other chiefs; and alfo the five thoufand Kalmucks, fent by the Ayuka-Chan, according to agreement, as formerly mentioned. They were all well mounted, and had many fpare horfes, which were of great ufe. They all encamped in the plain towards the mountains.
The troops being now all affembled, we only waited for the carriages which the Aldiggerey had engaged to furniih for the artillery and baggage.
During this interval our great leader, the Emperor, was not idle; but daily on horfeback,reviewing the army, which was now increafed to more than thirty thoufand combatants, including the cossacks and Kalmucks ; a
number
TO   D E R B E N T. ffi number fufficient to have conquered all Persia, had it 1722. been intended.   Befides the army which were then aP^/V-^ fembled, the Aldiggerey made a tender to the Emperor of a confiderable body of his troops, which the Emperor declined the acceptance of.
At length about three hundred waggons arrived at-the camp, drawn by two oxen each; but, their harnef-fing not being fuch as we were ufed to, we were not ar little embarrafiTed in fetting them a-going.
About the middle of Auguft the army was put in motion, and marched, in feveral columns, from agra-chan; leaving there a force fufficient to complete the1 works, and garrifon the place. In the evening we encamped at a brook of brackifh and muddy water. This day our road lay about equal diftance between the fea and the tzercassian mountains, commonly called daggestan.
Next morning, we decamped, marched along the valley towards the mountains, and, at night, came to another brook of bad water, where was a little wood of oaks, and plenty of grafs, among which I obferved great quantities of a certain herb, called roivian-wormwood, which the hungry horfes devoured very greedily. Next day we found above five hundred of our horfes dead
in
34* A JOURNEY
1722.    the wood and adjacent fields.   In our prefent cir-
v^v^Xjcumftances, this was no fmall difafter. The caufe was afcribed to their eating the wormwood, which, perhaps, might be the cafe. We avoided, for the future, as much as pofftble, the encamping where large quantities of this plant grew.
Yet the dead horfes, having been in good cafe, were not entirely loft, as our Kalmucks feafted on them for feveral days. It is to be obferved, that thefe people prefer horfe-nefh to beef; and, in all their expeditions, their baggage is very compendious, carrying no other provifions than fuch a number of fpare horfes as they think they may want. I was often diverted in feeing thefe hardy people, round a fire, broiling and eating their horfe-fteaks, without either bread or fait.
The lofs of fo many horfes detained us fome hours later than ufual; but, as both the water and grafs were bad, we decamped, and, at night, came to a fpacious plain oppofite to the town of tarku, where the Al-diggerey refides. Here we found frelh water, and good pafturage.
This place is pleafantly fituated in a hollow between two high hills, rifing, like an amphitheatre, to within a fmall diftance of the top; having a full view of the
caspian
to derbent;
Caspian fea.  The Princes houfe is the uppermoft, 1722. and overlooks the whole town; ic confifts of feveral a-V-/VX-f partments, with a fpacious hall, after the Persian manner, having a terrafs and fmall garden adjoining.
Next morning, the Aldiggerey came and waited on their Majefties, and invited them to dinner; which was accepted of.
Towards noon, the Princefs, fpoufe to the Aldiggerey, came and paid her refpect s to the Emprefs, and gave her Majefty a formal invitation. This lady came in the equipage of the country, that is, in a covered waggon, drawn by a yoke of oxen, with a few footmen to attend her, and efcorted by a fmall party of horfe. The lady, though fomething advanced in years, had ftill the remains of an handfome perfon. She had along with her, in the waggon, a young lady, her daughter, who was fo pretty that fhe would have been deemed a beauty in any part of europe. When they entered the Emprefs' tent, her Majefty flood up to receive them; they then took off their vails, and behaved with great decency. They were richly dreffed after the p e r s i a n fafhion. After they had drank a dilh of coffee, they took leave, and returned to the town.
Soon after their departure, the Emperor and Emprefs
344 A JOURNEY
1722. prefs went to the town to dine. The Emperor went on
**-/"v'"^horfeback, the Emprefs in her coach, attended by fome of the court-ladies, and efcorted by a battalion of the guards. The ftreet was fo narrow, and, near the palace, fo fleep, that the coach and fix horfes could not proceed quite to the palace; which, when her Majefty perceived, (he alighted from the coach, and walked the reft of the way on foot. The Emperor was much pleafed with the romantic fituation of the place. In the evening they returned to the camp.
Auguft 2 2d, the army marched from shaff kal. The day being exceeding hot, no water to be found on the road, together with a continued cloud of duft, to that degree that we could fcarcely know one another, made this day's march very difagreeable and fatiguing to all, more efpecially to the heavy-armed troops, and the cattle. Notwithstanding thefe inconveniencies, the Emperor kept on horfeback the whole day, and took his fhare of whatever happened. At night, we came to fome wells of frefh water, where the army encamped; but there was hardly water enough for the people to drink, which obliged us to fend the horfes and cattle to a brook at fome diftance, and a ftrong party
of
TO   DERBENT. 345 of cossacks to guard them, leaft the enemy fhould at- iy22. tempt to carry them off. <^"V^O
The next day, we halted at the wells. The Emperor having received intelligence, that a certain chieftain of the mountaineers, named ussmey, was affembling fome troops in order to harrafs us in our march, which lay through fome hollow grounds; accordingly, towards noon, we perceived a number of horfe and foot, on the tops of the neighbouring hills, about three English miles cliff ance from the camp; after they had reconnoitred our difpofition for fome time, about one half of them, compofed of horfe and foot, came down into the plain, with intent to drive off fome of our cattle, which brought on a skirmifh between our irregular troops and the mountaineers, wherein feveral were wounded, and fome were killed, on each fide. Our people took many of their foot, and of fuch as had been difmounted, prifoners. During the action our infantry kept clofe in the camp. The Emperor rode out to the field; he ordered the dragoons to march, andfupport the irregulars; on their advancing, the e-nemy foon difperfed themfelves, and fled to the hills, where a confiderable number had remained firm on the heights.  The carrying off fome cattle is fuppofed
Vol. II. X x to
246 A JOURNEY
1722. to have been their principal aim, as it would not have
^°v^V;been lefs than downright madnefs in them to have expected to gain any advantage by attacking fuch an army of veteran troops, well provided, and well conducted.
In the mean time, our dragoons and irregulars were in purfuit of the enemy, on the other fide of the firft ridge of hills, and quite out of fight. The Emperor, being apprehenfive of an ambulh, and of a large body of mountaineers being lodged on the other fide of the hills, about three o'clock afternoon, ordered the army to decamp, and march towards the mountains; which was performed in fix columns. The Emperor had hourly intelligence of the proceedings of the dragoons and irregulars, who, at length entirely difperfed the enemy, and had taken pofTelfion of the town where the Prince ussmey refidcd. However, it being then too late to return to our former camp, the army encamped, that night, on a plain between the hills, on the banks of a fmall rivulet, where we had but indifferent quarters, as there was no more time than to fet up the Emperor's tent, and a few others.
The next day, the army decamped, and marched back to our former camp at the wells j leaving the dragoons
TO DERBENT. goons and irregulars to manage the reft of the bull- I-,22. nefs, who made the daggestans, particularly the uss-^V^J mey and his people, pay dear for their ralh attempt of endeavouring to interrupt the march of an army fo far fuperior to any force they could mufter.   We ftaid here two days, waiting for the return of our dragoons and irregulars.
The 27th, the troops being all rc-aflembled, the Emperor decamped, and marched again to the fouth-eaftward, towards derbent, through a dry parched plain. At night, we came to a brook, near the foot of the hills, where we encamped, not having feen any e-nemy that day.
The 28th, we marched again; and, palling a defile, or hollow way, with fome difficulty and delay to the carriages, at night, we came to wells of brackifti water, where we fet up our tents, at no great diftance from the hills, the fea being about a mile from us to the left hand.
The 20th, being within a fhort march of the city of derbent, the Emperor halted to give the troops time to put themfelves in order for an entry into the town, as it is the frontier belonging to the Shach of
persia.
X x 2 Near
348 A JOURNEY
1722.     Near our camp there are feveral pits flowing with
^-^^^that bituminous liquid called naphtha. The naphtha here is of a blackilh colour, very inflammable; it is ufed by the Persians to burn in their lamps, and not eafily extinguifihed by rain; but, as I have formerly fpoken of this kind of petroleum, I do not enlarge on that fubj eel here.
The 30th, the army fet forwards, the Emperor being on horfeback at the head of his troops, which made a fine appearance. At the diftance of about three English miles from derbent, the governor of that place, attended by his officers of diftinetion, and the magistrates of the town, came, in a body, to wait on the Emperor, and to prefent him with the golden keys of the town and of the citadel; which they did on a cuihion covered with very rich Persian brocade; the governor, and all his attendants, kneeling during this fliort ceremony. The Emperor received thefe gentlemen very gracioufly, and gave them fignal marks of his favour. They accompanied him to the city, where, being arrived, the army halted fome time; during which, guards were placed at the gates, and a garrilon in the citadel, under the command of Colonel ylinger,
TO DERBENT. g B r, with a fupply of cannon and ammunition, both which were much wanting in the place.
The foregoing being completed, the Emperor, at the head of his army, marched through the city, and encamped among the vineyards, about an English mile to the fouth-eaft ward of the town, and about half a mile from the fea-ihore.
Soon after which the Emperor, accompanied by all the general officers, returned again to the city, and examined the condition of the fortifications. On this occafion the Persian governor made his Majefty an offer of his houfe, and quarters for as many of the troops as the place could accommodate; but, to avoid putting the inhabitants to any inconveniency, or perhaps for other reafons, the Emperor declined accepting the offer of lodging in the city; and, at night, returned to his camp.
In this fituation we continued fome days; and were making the needful preparations for advancing farther into the country, as foon as the tranfports with provifions, ftores, tkc. from astraciian, which were daily expected, fhould arrive.
They did arrive in fafety; but a moft unfortunate accident happened; the night following, afccr their arrival.
350 A JOURNEY
1722. rival, a violent florm of wind, from the north eaft, drove the greateft part of them afhore, where they were wrecked and dafhed to pieces; but, by good providence, not many lives were loft.
This misfortune difconcerted his Majefty s meafures, and put a ftop to the further progrefs of his arms for the prefent; having nothing before him but a country exhaufted of all neceiTaries; and the feafon of the year being too far fpent to wait a frefh fupply from Astra chan, the Emperor determined to leave things in the fame ftate they then were in, and to return again to astrachan, by the fame way we came, leaving a garrifon at derbent fufficient to fecure the advantages he had gained.
Before I leave derbent I fhall endeavour to give a fliort defcription of the place. It is faid to have been firft built and fortified, according to the ftyle of the fortifications of that age, by a l ex a n d e r the Great; though it is not eafy to afcertain that tradition, or the aera of its firft conftruction; yet, by variety of circum-ftances, it appears to be very ancient.
The prefent citadel, walls, and gates feem to be of European architecture, and no mean performance.
The citadel ftands on the higheft ground of the city
towards
T O D E R B E N T. 351 towards the land-fide. The walls of the city are built x 72 2. of large blocks of fquare ft one, they reach into the fea, beyond which many huge rocks are tumbled into the fea, to prevent any approach, or paffage, on that fide. The haven is now fo choaked up with fand, that there is hardly entry for a fmall boat.
Derbent may be called the key to the Persian empire on this fide; and ferves to keep the mountaineers, and other neighbours, on that fide, in awe. The fituation is very pleafant, rifing gradually from the fea to the top of the hill, commanding a very ex-tenfive profpecl, efpecially towards the fouth-eaft. A-bout thirty miles due fouth Hands one of the higheft mountains in persia, called shach-dagh, which is always covered with fnow. To the eaftward of the town are many large vineyards, producing plenty of grapes, of which they make a confiderable quantity of both white and red wine, of ftrength fufficient to preferve it round the year, and longer if required. The people of fubftance there keep their wine in jars, buried under ground, by which method it will keep good for years.
They have alfo fruitful plains in the neighbourhood ; and, at fome diftance, is a large foreft of walnut-trees, oaks, &c. As this place is a frontier of great
impor-
A JOURNEY
importance, the Sophy of persia always appoints a perfon of diftinction for its governor.
His Majefty having placed a fufficient garrifon in derbent, which he left there under the command of Colonel yunger, upon September the 18th the whole army marched back through the town, keeping the fame route by which we came. Little of moment occurred on our march, though we were almoft daily a-larmed by fmall parties of the daggestans, who frequently made their appearance on the tops of the hills, but fled always at the approach of our cossacks. As we had feen no rain fince our landing on this coaft, our people fuffered not a little from the great heats, continual clouds of duft, and want of water.
On the 29th of September, after a moft fatiguing march, their Majefties and all the army arrived, in fafety, at the fort of agrachan, and found the fleet in the bay where we left them.
October the ift, we began to Ifiip off the baggage, and what artillery, &c. was not wanted at the fort of agrachan; in which place the Emperor left a fufficient garrifon.
I (hall now endeavour to give the reader a fliort view of the country commonly called tzercassia, or dag-
gestan
TO   DERBENT, 353 gestanby the inhabitants of the country, from dagh, ij22, which fignifies a mountain in their language.   The (-/~v~"v-' country fo called is fituated between the euxine, or black fea, and the Caspian fea; thefe two feas confine it from N. W. to S. E.  Southward it reaches to the province of gurgistan, commonly called Georgia. It lfretches northward into a part of the stepp, or defert, which lies between asoph and astrachan.
The country is divided into feveral free independent principalities, as kaberda, shaffkal, ussmey, and many others, under their refpective chieftains, who are at firft elected by the people; and though that office is fometimes known to continue in the family of the perfon elected for feveral generations, yet it hath frequently happened, that, either through male-admi-niftration, or in confequence of wars among thofe different ftates, a chieftain with his family have been de-pofecl, or banifhed, and another appointed in his place. It hath alfo been known that the Sophy of persia hath placed and difplaced fome of thofe princes a-mong the daggestans, who lye the moft contiguous to persia. Both the Sophy and the ottoman porte lay claim to the fovereignty of dag gestan; but, of late years, thefe people, trufting to their own valour
Vol. II. Y y and
A JOURNEY and the natural ftrength of the country, pay little regard to either of thefe mighty monarchs, who fometimes threaten them, at other times court their friend-lhip.
The whole extent of the country is hilly, with fome mountains of great heighth; yet, I am informed, they have fruitful vallies, producing corn, vines, and fruits, natural to the climate. Befides a breed of excellent faddle-horfes, they have great (lore of cattle, particularly of fheep, which produce the fined wool I have feen in any part. Whether the famous golden fleece was the produce of thefe parts, or not, I fhall leave to others to determine.
The men are, for the mod part, well made, and flout; many of them are employed in the fervice of the Sophy, and frequently raifed to high ffations. The Et-madowlett, or prime minifter, aly-begg, was a native of this country. As to their women, they are efteemed to be the moft beautiful of any in asia, as well for features and complexion, as alfo for fine fhape; on which account many of thefe poor girls are purchafed, at high rates, or ftolen away, for the ufe of the feraglios at Ispahan, Constantinople, and other eaftern courts. The religion of the daggestans is generally Mahometan;
TO DERBENT. metan; fome following the feci of osman, others that j of halt. Some of thofe people are christians of the eaftern or greek church. Their language, for the moft part, is Turkish, or rather a dialect of the Arabic, though many of them fpeak alfo the Persian language.
One article I cannot omit concerning their laws of hofpitality, which is, if their greateft enemy comes under their roof for protection, the landlord, of what condition focver, is obliged to keep him fafe, from all manner of harm or violence, during his abode with him, and even to conduct him fafely, through his territories, to a place of fecurity. With which I conclude what I have to fay of the daggestans.
On the 5th of October, his Majefty and the Emprefs went on board their galley, the fleet being ready, and all the troops embarked.
Before I quit agrachan, I am defirous of bringing the reader, in fome meafure, acquainted with the character of the magnanimous commander of this expedition, during which I had daily frequent opportunities of feeing that great man peter the Firft; and, during the whole time, was in company, and conver-fed, with thofe people who had attended his perfon for
Y y 2 very
A JOURNEY very many years; feveral of whom poffeffed, in fome degree, his favour, and were well-regarded by him, Therefore, I hope, what I am about to offer, concerning this great monarch, will not be unacceptable to the candid reader; whofe taking in good part what I fhall fay, I have fome right to expect; for I fhall fry nothing of fact, but what is true; nor any thing of o-pinion, but what is fincerc.
Several foreign writers have mifreprefented and traduced the real character of peter the Great, by relating mean ftories, picked up at alehoufes, and circulated among the lowefl clafs of people, molt of them without the lea ft ground of truth ; whereby many people of good underftanding have been milled, and, even to this prefent time, look on him to have been a vicious man, and a cruel tyrant; than which nothing can be more the reverfe of his true character.
Though he might have had fome failings, yet it is well known, to many living at the time of my writing this, which is above thirty-feven years after his demife, that his prudence, juftice, and humanity very much over-balanced his failings; which principally, if not folely, arofe from his inclination to the fair fex.
I fhall here take the liberty to infert a paflage or
two,
TO DERBENT. two, which, though trifling, yet as fo great a perfon-age is the fubject, will not (I truft) be altogether unacceptable or unentertaining to the reader, as they are inilances of his afliduity.
About the middle of October, i 714, I arrived at cronstadt in an English fhip. The Czar, having notice of the fhip s arrival, came on board, the next morning, from sr. Petersburg ; being attended only by Dr. areskine, who was his chief phyfician at that time, and, on that occafion, ferved him as interpreter. After his Majefty had enquired news about the Swedish fleet, &c. he eat a piece of bread and cheefe, and drank a glafs of ale, then went on (liorc to vifit the works carrying on at cronstadt; and returned, the fame evening, in his boat, to st. Petersburg, diftance about twenty English miles.
The firft winter after my arrival at st. Petersburg, I lodged at Mr. noy's, an English fhip-builder in the Czar's fervice. One morning, before day-light, my fervant came and told me that the Czar was at the door. I got up, and faw him walking up and down the yard; the weather being feverely cold and frofty, without any one to attend him. Mr. noy foon came, and took him into the parlour, where his Majefty gave him fome
parti-
358 A JOURNEY
1722. particular directions about a fhip then on the flocks;
**/V"\^which having done, he left him.
His Majefty s perfon was graceful, tall, and well-made ; clean, and very plain in^his apparel. He generally wore an English drab-colour cloth-frock, never appearing in a drefs-fuit of cloaths, unlefs on great feftivals, and remarkable holidays; on which occafions he was fome times dreffed in laced cloaths, of which fort he was not owner of above three or four fuits. When he was dreffed, he wore the order of st. Andrew ; at other times, he had no badge, or mark, of any order, on his perfon. His equipage was fimple, without attendants. In fummer, a four-oared wherry was always attending, to carry him over the river, if he ihould want to crofs it, which he frequently did. When he went about the town, by land, he always made ufe of an open two-wheeled chafe, attended by two foldiers, or grooms, who rode before, and a page, who fome times flood behind the chafe, and often fat in it with his Majefty, and drove him. In winter, he made ufe of a fledge, drawn by one horfe, with the fame attendants. He found thefe to be the moft expeditious ways of conveyance, and ufed no other. He was abroad every day in the year, unlefs confined at home by illnefs,
which
TO   DERBENT. 359 which rarely happened; fo chat feldom a day pafled 1722. but he was feen in almoft every part of the city.
I have more than once feen him flop, in the ftreets, to receive petitions from perfons who thought themfelves wronged by fentences paffed in courts of judicature. On taking the petition, the perfon was told to come next day to the fenate; where the affair was immediately examined, and determined, if the nature of it would admit its being done in fo fhort a time. It will naturally follow, that fuch free accefs to his perfon, was not only productive of great relief to many poor widows and orphans, but alfo a ftrong check upon judges; and tended very much to prevent any fort of influence prevailing on them to pronounce unjuft fentences, for which they were fo likely to be called to* account.
His Majefty might truly be called a man of bufinefs; for he could difpatch more affairs in a morning, than an houfeful of fenators could do in a month. He rofe almoft every morning in the winter-time, before four o'clock, was often in his cabinet by three o'clock, where two private fecretaries, and certain clerks, paid' conftant attendance. He often went fo early to the fenate, as to occafion the fenators being raifed out of
their
l6o A JOURNEY
1722. ^eir beds to attend him there.  When affembled, af-
^"^"^ter hearing caufes between fubject. and fubject, or public affairs, regarding the interior of the empire, read by the fecretary, and the opinion of the fenate recited thereupon, he would write upon the procefs, or upon the affair, under deliberation, with his own hand, in a very laconic lfyle, " Let it be according to the decree " of the fenate;" and fome times would add fome particular alterations, fuch as he thought fit to mention, and under-wrote PETER.
His Majefty knew fo little of relaxation of mind when awake, that he never allowed his time of reft to be broke in upon, unlefs in cafe of fire. When any accident of that kind happened, in any part of the town, there was a (landing order to awake him on its firft appearance; and his Majefty was frequently the firft at the lire, where he always remained, giving the necef-fary orders, till all further danger was over. This example of paternal regard of the Czar for his fubjects was, of courfe, followed by all the great officers, and thofe of the firft quality; which was frequently the means of laving many thoufands of his fubjects from utter ruin, whofe houfes and goods, without fuch lingular
TO   DERBENT. 35£ gular afitftance, muft have fhared the fate of their ruin- x y2 2. ed neighbours. v«/V\^
In acts of religion he appeared devout, but not fa-perftitious. I have feen him at his publick devotions in church many times. I have been prefent, when his Majefty, not liking the clerk's manner of reading the pfalms, hath taken the book from the clerk, and hath read them himfelf; which he did very diftinctly, and with proper emphafis. His Majefty was allowed, by the belt judges of the sclavonian and Russian languages, to be as great a mafter of them, as any the moft learned of his fubjects, whether churchmen or laics. He wrote a very good hand, very expeditioufly, yet the characters distinct enough; of this I myfelf am fome judge, having feen many of his letters, all wrote with his own hand, to Mr. henry stiles, and others. As to his ftyle, fome of his fecretaries, and other competent judges of the language, affirmed, that they had never known any man who wrote more correctly, or could comprife the fenfe and meaning of what he wrote in fo few words, as his Majefty.
The following I had from a certain russ gentleman, of very good family, and who was a general officer of unexceptionable character in the army, who
Vol. II. Z z had
362 A JOURNEY
1722. had attended his Majefty, from his very youth, in all
^/"Y~\^his expeditions. This officer being an old friend of mine, I went to pay him a vifit one evening, long after the death of peter the great; when he told me, that fuch and fuch old officers, naming them, had dined with him that day, and that the principal fubj eel of their converfation turned on the actions of their old father, (as he termed him, by way of eminence,) peter the great. He told me further, that though his Majefty feemed to be feverc, on certain occalions, yet not one of them all could produce or recollect one fingle inftance of his having punifhed an honeft man; or, that he had caufed any perfon to fuffer any punifh-ment who had not well deferved it.
He hath been reprefentcd as making too frequent ufe of fpirituous liquors to excefs, which is an unmerited afperfion; for he had an averfion to all fots, and to thofe too much given to drink. It is true, he had his times of diverfion, when he would be merry himfelf, and liked to fee others fo; this may have been neceflary, and proper for the unbending his mind from affairs of great weight; but fuch amufements occurred generally during holidays, and feftival times, and was, with him, at no time of long continuance.   It hath
been
TO DERBENT. been imputed to him, and not without fome appearance of reafon, that he had political views in encouraging drinking at thefe times of merriment; for, on thefe occafions, he mixed with the company, and, con-verfing with them on the footing of a companion, had better opportunities, at fuch times, of difcovering the real fentiments of thofe about him, than when they were quite cool.
Thofe, who by their offices about the perfon of peter the great, might be fuppofed to be the belt acquainted with his difpofition, always difavowed his drinking to excefs; and infilled on his being a fober Prince. I can aver, that, during the campaign of the expedition to derbent in persia, he was not once guilty of the leaft excefs; but rather lived abflemiouily. In this point I could not be miftaken, as the tent of dr. blumentrost, his Majefly's chief phyfician, with whom I lodged, was always the nearefl tent to that of his Majefty.
I fhall give one inflance in proof of what I have advanced, concerning the temperance of this great man, viz. In our third day's-march, on our return from derbent, we were kept in continual alarm by confiderable bodies of mountaineers, both horfe and
Z z 2 foot,
364 A JOURNEY
1722. f°otJ whom we faw hovering on the tops of the adja-cent hills; though they dared not to come down to the plain, to attack any part of our army, yet it was ne-ceifary to be watchful of them; which, in fome mea-fure, impeded our march.   The evening of that day, we had a hollow way to pafs, which took up much time, and obliged the greateft part of the army to remain there all night; fo that none reached the camp, except the guards, and fome light horfe who attended their Majefties.  On my arrival there, about midnight, I found only his Majefty s tent fet up, and another fmall one for Mr. felton, the Czar's principal cook, and mafter of his kitchen.  I went into felton's tent, and found him all alone, with a large fauce-pan of warm grout before him, made of buck wheat with butter; which, he told me, was the remains of their Majefties fupper, who eat of nothing elfe that evening; and who were juft gone to bed.
During the whole march, his Majefty, for the moft part, rode an English pad, about fourteen hands high; for which he had a particular liking, as it was very tractable and eafy to mount. His picture is drawn by car a vac on this horfe. He did not wear boots, as he very often walked on foot.   In the heat of the day,
when
TO DERBENT. 365 when the army halted, he ufed to go into the Em- 1722. prefs' coach, and fleep for half an hour. His drcfs, during the march, was a white night-cap, with a plain flapped hat over it, and a fliort dimitty waiflcoat. When at any time he received mefTengers, from the chieftains of the mountaineers, he put on his regimentals, as an officer of the guards, being lieutenant colonel of the preobr ashen sky regiment.
During the whole courfe of his life, his Majefty a* voided all forts of ceremony, except on publick occa* lions. His manner of living, in his houfe, was more like that of a private gentleman, than of fo great a monarch. I was once at court on a holiday, when the Emperor came home from church to dinner, with a large attendance of his minifters, general officers^ and other great men. His table was laid with about fifteen covers. As foon as dinner was ferved up, he and the Emprefs took their places; and his Majefty, addreffing himfelf to the company, faid, Gentlemen, pleafe to take your places as far as the table will hold, the reft will go home and dine with their wives.
Gn fuch occafions, the princefles, his children, dined in another room, to whom he fent fuch difhes, from his own table, as he thought proper, for their dinner.
This
%66 A JOURNEY
1722. This great monarch took all the pains, and ufed all the means poflible, in order to be intimately acquainted with every thing proper for a man, who ruled a mighty empire,-to know. He entered into the detail of every branch of the arts ufeful to mankind; into that of all the manufactures which regarded the con-ftruction of Ihips, and fitting them for the fea; into that of the making of arms, artillery, &c. If he had a ruling paftion for any one part of thefe acquirements, it muft have been for fhip-building; into which he entered himfelf very early, in the quality of a -common workman, with his hatchet, and proceeded regularly through all the degrees, to the rank of mafter-builder, which he attained but a few years before his death. After he got that length in the art, he made the draughts, formed the mouldings, and directed the building of feveral men of war, of the fecond and third rates, himfelf; and he duely demanded, and received his falary as a mafter-builder. The day of launching the (hips, which he himfelf built, he celebrated as a holiday, and put on laced clothes; but before he went to woik, to ftrike away the ltanchions, blocks, &c. he alwrys put off his fine coat. .He was very frugal in what regarded his perfonal
expences,
TO DERBENT. expences, and thofe of his houfhold. Notwithftanding his frugality, in what related to himfelf, he fpared no cod, in whatever concerned the publick, in the ftruc-ture of his men of war, in the artillery, fortifications, arfenals, canals, txc. all which bore marks of very great magnificence. Nor was he fparing in his buildings, and the decorations of his gardens with flatues, grottos, fountains, ckc. of which the buildings of the fummer palace, and the gardens at sr. Petersburg, at
PETERHOFF, STREALNA, CZARSKY SEALO, and many O-
thers, are fufficient proofs.    I fhall not detain the reader longer, on the fubject of this very great mans character,, or way of living, than to acquaint him, that, as his Majefty was very early up in the morning, he went abroad generally without breakfaft; came home to dinner about eleven of the clock; after dinner, went to deep for about an hour; after which, if bufinefs did not intervene, he fometimes diverted himfelf at his turning loom; then went to vifit thofe he had a regard for, as well foreigners as Russians, with whom he would be very fociable, and eafy in converfation. He fometimes fupped with them; which, generally in his latter days, was on hare or wild fowl, roafted very dry, drank fmall beer, and fometimes a few glafles of wine;
and
368 A JOURNEY
1722. and generally was in bed before ten of the clock at WVX^ night.   He neither played at cards, dice, or any game of chance.
The reader will pleafe to take along with him the following obfervation, viz. That this monarch was at no time, even during mafquerades, feaftings, aflenv blies, and all other diverfions or amufements, by day or night, without the attendance of fome or other of his minifters, and of thofe who poffefled his confidence; by which means bufinefs, and fuch affairs as were of the greateft confequence, went on regularly; and fome of them even concerted during thofe times of relaxation.
I now return to the 5th of October, 1722; at which time, the Emperor and Emprefs being embarked on board their galley, and the whole fleet being ready, and the wind fair, we weighed anchor, and got under fail, from the bay of agrachan, for astrachan, at which place we arrived on the 14th of the fame month, little material happening in the paffage, only fome rough gales of contrary wind.
Having finifhed what I had to do at astrachan, I joined company with simon gregoritznarishkin, one of his Majefty's General-adjutants, and Commodore
cosslar,
TO   DERBENT. 369 gosslar,who always commanded the fhip in which his 1722. Majefty hoifted his flag, when he went to fea; and withv^rY'^ thofe two gentlemen returned to mosco.
Accordingly, we fet out from astrachan in a fmall fhallop, and came, by water, to the town of zaritzi-na. The winter approaching, we got fuch carriages as the place afforded, and continued our journey, a-long the lines, to the river don ; thefe lines are drawn from the volga to the don, being a deep ditch, about thirty feet broad, pallifadoed on the top, with high wooden towers, at certain diftances, in fight of each other, well guarded. They effectually anfwer the end propofed, by his Majefty, in erecting them, and making the ditch; which was for the preventing of incur-fions from the cub an tartars.
The 25th of November we arrived in mosco; at which place his Majefty and the Emprefs arrived about the middle of December, 1722.
Vol. II. A a a The
Stages between MOsco and astrachak
The following are the poft-ftages, and diftances, between mosco and astrachan*
Verlte,
From Mofco
to   the village of   Oftroffsach 25
Ulianinin Sealo 38
Town of Kolumna 3 2
of Zaraysky 39
Prudach Sealo 37
Pod Offinka 3 5
Bogoyavlensko 3 5
Gorlovy 2 5
Town of Skopina 30
Town of  Reasky 40
Village of Blagoy 37
Oloviach 3 5
Town of Kozloff 32
Retzky Yaroflafky 25
Lyfllach-Gorach Sealo 22
Town of Tamboff 22
Kufminoy Gatty Sealo 2 1 To be carried over
Stqgcs between mosco and astrachan.
Verfts.
Brought over 530
rom         Rctzky-Tziny 27
to           Panoffskich Kufstack 24
Retzky-Savally 20
Retzky-Shinkofly 20
Retzky-Tagaiky 26
Retzky-Tavolfhanky 20
Chaperskoy Krepoft 22
Michailofsky Gorodky 27
Yuripinsky Stanu 17
Tepinsky-Yurtu 20
Pravotorskoy-Yurtu 20
Kalinofsky Kuftiky 24
Zatofsky-Yurtu 21
Kulmiftikom-Yurtu 24
Uft-Chaperskoy Koluditz 21
Rofsleevc 12
Uft-Medvedesky 13
Kletzkoy-Tzaganock 18
Klementsky Stantzy 2 3
Novo Gregoriofsky 20
Siropensky Stantzy 2 3
To be carried over 972 A a a 2
Stages between mosco and astrachan.
Verfts.
Brought over 972
From             Retzky-Sokary 30
to                Gratfefsky Stantzy 12
Town of Zaricina 28
Reka-Actuba 26
Tzareofa-Puda 31
Urotzifha-Tzareva 3 o
Tayunley 26
Kulava 30
Afhlagatay 30
Sakuley 30
Okoreba 25
Befstzara 26
Kravala 3 o
Achfarava 2 7
Reka-Bolfhoy Bereketa 20 Aftrachan The diftance from mosco to astrachan, the poft-road, by land - - -
a n
ACCOUNT
of my
JOURNEY
from
st petersburg
t o
constantinople,
and thence BACK   TO   St. PETERSBURG,
in part of the years m.dcc.xxxvii. AND m.dcc.xxxviii. UNDERTAKEN AT THE INSTANCES OF
COUNT OSTERMAN,
chancellor of russia, and of
Mr. RONDEAU,
minister from  great britain at the court of st. petersburg.
a h
375
ACCOUNT^
of my
journey
T O
constantinople.
WAR having broken out, in 1734, between Russia and turkey, which had been carried on with: great fuccefs on the part of russia, by their taking from the turks the ftrongly fortified cities of asoph, otzakoff, together wich the perecop, and other places of the frontiers of great importance, the Emperor of Germany, through various connections, came, fome time after its commencement, to be engaged in it.
In the autumn of 1737 a congrefs was appointed to be held at nemiroff, a town on the frontiers of Poland, in order to accommodate and determine all differences, between the belligerent powers, by the mediation of the minifters of great Britain, France, and the States of Holland, then refiding at the ottoman
porte,
J737* p0rte> wn0 were ^r everard fawkner, the Marquis ^v^de ville-neuve, and Mr. kalkune. But, before thefe minifters could reach nemiroff, the plenipotentiaries of the powers at war differed fo widely, in their refpective demands, that the congrefs broke up without effect.
The court of russia determining to fend a perfon to Constantinople, with new propofals of accommodation, and as no fubjects of russia or Germany are admitted into the dominions of the Grand Seignor, whilfl: he is at war with thofe powers, I was prevailed upon to undertake the journey, at the earneft dcfires of Count osterman, the chancellor of russia, and of Mr. rondeau, at that time his britannic Majeftys minifter at the court of st. Petersburg.
On the 6th of December, 1737, I fet out from sr. Petersburg, with only one fervant, who underftood the turkis h language. Having, in a former journey, taken notice of the places on the road between st. Petersburg and mosco, I wave the repeating them.
The oth, I arrived at the city of mosco; which had greatly fuffered, the preceding fummer, by a dreadful conflagration. As I purpofe, at the end of my journey, to give an account of the ftages and diftances, I
fhall
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 377 fhall here only mention the time, and chief places 1737. through which I pafs. v-^v*xj
The nth, I left mosco, early in the morning, and proceeded to the fouth-wefl towards kioff.
The 12th, in the night, I came to Kaluga, a large and populous town, fituated on the banks of the river ocka, inhabited by feveral fubftantial merchants, very confiderable dealers in hemp, pot-afh, wax, &c.
The 15th, I got to siesky, another town, which is reckoned to be at about equal diflance from mosco, and from kioff, and is the laft town in great russia, bordering on the Russian ukrain. At night I reached glukova, the firft town in the ukrain, a large and populous place; where having changed horfes, I proceeded thence the fame night to another town called
korolevitz.
The 16th, I paffed through batturin, a large rambling town, formerly the refidence of the Hetman mazeppa; it ftands on rifing hills upon the river semm. The country adjacent is very pleafant, and exceeding fruitful, being moftly plain, interfperfed with woods of oak, and other timber. The place is almoft en-compaffed with cherry and other fruit trees. What is remarkable, and demonftrative of the great fertility
Vol. II. B b b of
1727. of the foil, is, that they have about fixty water-mills,
^"VN^for grinding corn, all built within the diftance of two English miles.
At night, I got to neshin, another confiderable town. At this place, for want of fnow on the ground, I was obliged to leave my convenient fledge, and ride all the reft of the way on horfeback. This detained me much longer on the road than I ffiould have been, if I could have proceeded in my fledge.
The 18th, I palTed the borysthenes in a boat; and, in the evening, arrived at kioff, fituated on the weft bank of the borysthenes, now called Dnieper. This famous river takes its rife on the borders of Poland, near the city of smolensko, and, after a long courfe pointing to the fouth, difcharges itfelf into the black fea, near otzakoff.
. The city of kioff ftands on a high hill, and overlooks the river, and a fpacious plain to the eaftward, as far as your eye can reach. To the weftward, the country is hilly; and many of the hills are covered with woods. There are feveral vine-yards about the town, which produce good grapes for the table.
This place is adorned with many magnificent churches; and is famous for being the repofitory of faints, and
holy
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 379 holy men of the greek church, whofe fhrines are vifi- 1737. ted by devout perfons from diftant places.   Befides, <*/VNj they have an univerfity at kioff, of confiderable re-puce in thefe parts.
I cannot but obferve here, that this part of the country, commonly called the ukrain, (though it is fometimes called little russia,) doth, for fertility of foil and rich pafturage, exceed moft parts of Europe; producing vaft quantities of various forts of grain, the crops of which are always very great, as well as of hemp and flax, of the moft excellent quality, and that with little labour; for they plow the ground with one horfe only, and with but one man, who holds the plow and drives the horfe at the fame time.
The ukrain produces good horfes for the faddle, and large fized black-cattle, in very great numbers, more than fufficient for their own ufe, and for fupply-ing their neighbours, with as good beef as the world affords. The woods are well ftored with game of di-verfe forts; as are the rivers and ponds with fifh. Afpa-ragus, which in other parts requires cultivation, grows naturally, in fuch plenty, in the ukrain, as to be termed a weed. The people are very civil and hofpitable among themfelves, and alfo to all ftrangers, living very
B b b 2 clean
jgp A JOURNEY
1737. clean and neat In their houfes. I now refume my v/W journey.
At kioff I met with my worthy friends General romanzoff and the privy counfellor Mr. neptuof, who gave me all the affiftance and difpatch I could defire. They ordered a lieutenant, and a troop of cof-facks to efcort me through Poland, to the confines of
MOLDAVIA.
On the 20th, I fet out from kioff; and at night came to the frontier town, called vassilkoff, which Hands on the declivity of a hill, and is the laft town belonging to russia in that part. The place is but fmall, though well fortified, and provided with a ftrong garrifon, &c.
The 2 1 ft, early in the morning, I left vassilkoff, accompanied by my trufty coffacks; and, after riding about an hour, I came to the borders of Poland, where is an out-poft, and a ftrong guard of Russian foldiers. This place is called the zastave, very neceflary in time of war. The territory of poland is divided here, from that of russia, by a deep ditch drawn a-crofs the middle of a fpacious plain.
From the zastave I continued my journey, in a ftrong froft, which made the road very rough; and
keeping
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 381 keeping to the fouthward, along the fame plain, I faw 1737. neither houfe nor tree, till I came to belozerkoff, the^^""^ firft town appertaining to Poland in this part. The gates being (hut, before my arrival, it was fometime before I could be admitted.   However, at length, the gates were opened; I took up my quarters at a publick houfe belonging to a jew.   The fame evening I waited on Mr. bechersky, the governor, and dedxcd he would give me a paflport.   He treated me with great civility, and ordered the paiTport to be ready againft: the next morning.
The 22d, by the excefs of the governors hofpitali-ty, I was detained till the evening, waiting for his excellency's paflport; which was abfolutely neceflary, and proved of great ufe to me on the road.
The town of belozerkoff, fo called from a white church there, is a pretty large place, and is fortified; It ftands in a pleafant plain. The inhabitants are, for the moft part, poles, mixed with not a few jews, who keep publick houfes; and are generally farmers of the revenues all over Poland. There is fcarce a village without fome jews, who keep inns, for lodging and entertaining pafTengers.
In the evening, I took my leave of the kind governor,
382 A JOURNEY
1737. nor, who, after treating me with great politenefs, gave
^/VVme a guide to the next village, called shamaryafka, about two polish miles diftant from belozerkoff, where I lodged that night.
The 23 d, early in the morning, I left this village, in a ftrong froft, without any fnow, and, after pafTing a few ftraggling villages, at night, I came to golo-quast; where I took up my lodgings at a jew's houfe. It is to be obferved, that the country is moftly plain, with fome rifing grounds, interfperfed with woods of oak, afh, and elm, and other forts of timber, but chiefly of oak; is very pleafant and fruitful, but thinly inhabited; which muft proceed from their being expofed to the incurfions of the tartars and haydamacks, who, at times, make cruel inroads into thefe parts. : The haydamacks were, the foregoing winter, at this place, with a body of five or fix hundred horfe, where they committed many diforders; after which, and after having tortured all the jews they could light upon, to oblige them to difcover their money, they marched off with their booty, before the polish troops could be affembled to oppofe them.
I was well informed, by people who knew fomething ■of thefe lawlefs banditti, who are called haydamacks
by
TO CONSTANTINOPLE, by the poles, and zapourosky cossacks by the Russians, that they are a parcel of vagabonds, compofed of idle fellows of different nations, who, having fled from juftice, find a fafe retreat among this crew. They are, for feveral reafons, protected by the turks, who lay claim to the iilands, and places adjacent, on the river Dnieper, where they inhabit; and have fortified themfelves fo ftrongly as not eafily to be attacked; nor can they be attacked without danger of breaking peace with the turk.
They profefs the christian religion; but have no-wives nor any women among them; having erected themfelves into a wild kind of military order, if it may be fo called. Every perfon, who is deiirous of entering into this community, is obliged to ferve a certain number of years, before he is admitted into the brotherhood. The grand mafter is called Calha-var, which fignifies chief cook, who is chofen from among the fraternity, for his conduct and courage. I think I need not enlarge on the fubject of fuch a worchiefs fociety.
The 24th, I left goloquast, and came, towards noon, to a fmall town, called pogrebisha, where I halted. The people, at firft fight, taking my cossacks for haydamacks, fhut the gates, and alarmed the
place
1737. place-   My paflport foon convinced them of their er-^^^ror.   After a fliort ftay, I proceeded again on my journey.   At night I reached a fmall village, named otze-redno, where I lodged.
The 25th, leaving otzeredno, I got to vitofftzy, another village, where I lay that night.
The 26th, I arrived at nemiroff, where the late congrefs was held, as I have mentioned above. This town is pretty large and populous, well fortified and garrifoned. The governor is General russotsky, who hath Colonel wancenheim, and feveral other german officers under him.
The country about nemiroff is very pleafant and fruitful; having many orchards in the neighbourhood, which produce the largeft apples and pears, that I have feen any where. They have alfo plenty of grapes, very good for the table.
The 27th, about noon, I fet out again on my journey. I got that night to the village petzory, where I remained that night.
The 28th, I halted at spikoff; travelled thence to lefkovitz, a large village, where I paffed the night.
The 20th, I halted at tamaz-poly, and lodged at
kleimbofka.
The
TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
The 30th, I arrived at tzikanofka, the lad place belonging to Poland on that frontier. It is a large ftraggling village, fituate on the eaft bank of the river ister, now called Dniester, and is the boundary between Poland and Moravia. On the oppofite fhore ftands the town of soroka, the firft in the principality of Moldavia, now annexed to the Turkish dominions. The fame evening, I fent my man to soroka, to acquaint the commandant or Perkulab, as they are called, of my arrival.
Next morning, the ill: of January, 1738, the commandant of soroka, whofe name is petroky, a greek, came over upon the ice to vifit me, and told me that he was very forry he could not let me pafs without a fpecial order from the Prince of Moldavia, who re-fides at y a s s y, to whom he would immediately dif-patch an exprefs for that purpofe; and hoped I-would wait patiently for an anfwer. In the evening Mr. petroky paid me another vifit; he fhowed me much civility, and brought me a prefent of wine, fruits, &c. which was very acceptable in a place where little was to be got for money.
January 2d, Mr, petroky acquainted me, that his exprefs was returned, with orders, from the Prince, to
Vol. IE C c c . furnilh
1738. ftirnifli me with horfes, and a proper convoy, to yassy.
v/YV Having no more occafion for the cossacks, I fent them back again to kioff; but Mr. noroff, the lieutenant, was permitted to accompany me to yassy. This gentleman is an officer of a marching regiment. The cossacks had their own officer befides.
Soroka is but a fmall town, pleafantly fituated on the weft bank of the river, about thirty leagues fouth-eaft from chotyn, and the fame diftance north-weft from bender. The place is inhabited chiefly by Moldavians, mixed with a few greeks, jews, and turks. It is defended by an old tower, in which are fome cannon of little ufe. The channel of the Dniester runs deep there, between two high green banks. The country adjacent is fruitful in grain, and abounds in very rich pafturage.
The 2d, early in the morning, I left tzikanofka, and palled the river, on the ice, to soroka; where, the horfes being ready, I took leave of the commandant Mr. petroky, and proceeded on my journey. Towards noon I halted at a large village called kaynar. The preceding fummer many of the inhabitants of this place were carried off by the plague; but it was now, by the rigour of the feafon, much abated. As foon as
the
TO CONSTANTINOPLE, the horfes were changed, we left kaynar ; and, after travelling over a very fine country, came, at night, to another large village, called meygura, where we lay.
The 3d, I left meygura. After pafting the river pruth, I arrived, in the evening, at yassy, where I found good and warm quarters.
Next morning, being the 4th, I was conducted to the palace, and waited on the Prince, who is alfo flyled Hofpodar of Moldavia.   He takes the title of Serene Highnefs, though he is only promoted to that dignity by the Sultan, or rather by the Grand Vifier, and holds it only during pleafure; being trufted with no o-ther power than the adminiftration of civil affairs; his name is Gregory ducas; of a reputable Grecian family; he enjoys a general good character. This gentleman treated me with great civility and politenefs, regreted that it was not in his power to allow of my going directly to Constantinople; and that I mult go to bender firft, where I mould find the Seraskier, who had the chief command in thefe parts. I was not willing to go fo far out of my road; but, as there was no remedy, I complied.   The Prince ordered a bosniac captain, and two Moldavian foldiers of his guards, to efcort
C c c 2 me
1738. me t0 bender; which was all he could do for me in V»/VXJthe prefent juncture of affairs.
From soroka to yassy the country is fomewhat hilly, the foil rich, the pafturage excellent. About the river pruth are fine woods of various forts of timber natural to the climate. About yassy, and in other parts, there are large vineyards, producing grapes in great abundance, whereof are made confiderable quantities of wine, of inferior quality, the greateft part of which is confumed in Poland, and other parts adjacent, for which the Moldavians receive confiderable fums in ready money.
The city of yassy ftands in a fpacious plain, on the rivulet called bachluy, about thirty-five leagues, to* wards the north-weft, from bender; it may contain between two and three thoufand houfes, moftly built of wood. The inhabitants are christians of the creek church. The Prince's palace is an ancient pile of gothic building, of ftone and brick; it hath the appearance of a venerable old caftle, for which, I fuppofe, it was intended, as this unhappy country hath been, at all times, expofed to the ravages of barbarous nations.
The 5th, having taken leave of my companion,
Mr.
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 389 Mr. noroff, who returned back to kioff, I fet out 1*738-. from yassy, accompanied by my bosniac captain, the^v^-; two Moldavians, and my own fervant.  We came, at night, to a village called voltzinitz, about ten leagues fouth-eaft from yassy, {landing in a fruitful valley, where we took up our quarters.
The 6tli, we left this village in the morning; and came, at night, to kishanoff, another village, where we lodged.
The 7th, we left kishanoff. On the road we met with many troops of tartars, going to the eaftward, on an expedition, notwithftanding the weather was fe-verely cold, with ftrong frofts. Thefe hardy people accompanied me all the reft of the way to bender, where we arrived in the evening.
The country from yassy to kishanoff is very fine; but towards bender, it grows more dry and barren* and doth not appear of fo good foil, nor to have fo good pafturage as the countries which I had paifcd through.
The Moldavians are all christians, and the Sultan indulges them with a governor, or prince, of their own religion. This privilege they have enjoyed for many years, which may be elleemcd no fmall favour under
fuch
390 A JOURNEY
1738. fuch an iron government as is that of the turks. Yet it
^-^^^may be obferved, that their yoke is much eafier, and their manners much more humanized, than at their firft entrance and fettlement in Europe; though I am perfuaded that two-thirds of Moldavia lies wafte at this time. It feems to have been an eftablifhed fyf-tem in Turkish politics to depopulate all the countries bordering on Christendom, referving no more than may be fufficient to furnifh their garrifons and troops with provifions.
As the plague had raged all the preceding year in the town of bender, and had almoft depopulated the place; about a mile fliort of the town, we turned off the road, to the right hand, towards the Turkish camp, where the Seraskicr, or general in chief, lay in the field, with all his army about him. The general's quarters were ftrongly fortified, with a deep ditch pah lifadoed and mounted with cannon; but the troops were lodged in cells under ground, laid over with flicks and earth, having a hole at the top to let out the fmoke, fenced with a dry hedge about it. In this miferable condition thefe poor people paffed the winter. I and my bosniac captain were conducted to one of thefe holes, which, at night, was crowded with Turkish officers
TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 301 fleers of diftinction. Such miferies, and many more, 1738. are the frequent attendants on deftructive war. The ^/V^J Seraskier s name is cency aly basha, or Young Aly Bafha, though he is now about feventy years of age, and hath the character of a brave and active general. • The 8th, the Seraskier fent his fecretary to me, who asked me feveral queftions relating to my journey, and hoped that neceffity would be admitted as an excufe for the badnefs of my quarters. In the evening the fecretary came again, when he told me, that in two or three days their feaft of Bayram would be over, and then I Ihould proceed on my journey to Constantinople, with a proper convoy. In the mean time, he ordered an officer to furnifh me with fuch ncceifiries as the place afforded. In this no agreeable fltuation I was obliged to wait till the feaft was over, being five long nights, all the while confined within the precincts of my hut. One alleviation was, the company of my bosniac captain, who tarried v/ith me the whole time.
The 12 th, in the morning, the fecretary came and acquainted me, that the Seraskier had ordered a Chi-vadar, or officer, belonging to the Grand Vifier, and two tartars, to efcort me to Constantinople; at
the
ijtne ^ame ^me ^e t0^ me t'iat * m^gnc depart when I pleafed. This welcome news was very agreeable, for I had been little better than a prifoner from the time of my arrival at the camp; though, I muft own, they were very civil, and made me as eafy as the accommodations, and the circumftances of affairs, would admit of.
I could only fee bender at a diftance. But it is well known to be a place of importance, being ftrongly and regularly fortified, with out-works in proportion. It ftands in a plain, near the river Dniester, and is frequently mentioned, in the annals of late times, for being the place of refuge of that intrepid, inconfiderate monarch, charles the Twelfth of Sweden, after the Russians had beat him out of the field at poltova, in the year 1709.
Notwithftanding the contagious diftemper was not entirely ceafed at bender, we had our daily provifions from that place.
As foon as the horfes were ready, I mounted, and left this plaguy camp, which is fo in a literal, as well as in an allegorical fenfe. Although our horfes were in exceeding bad cafe, from the fatigues of the laft campaign, and from the want of due accommodations,
of
TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 393 of fhelter, &c. during the fevere weather that followed; 1738. yet we made a fhift to come, in the evening, to a large ^-/"Y*^ rambling town, called kaushan, inhabited by bud jack tartars. It Hands fouth-weft from bender. Here I had good quarters; the people were friendly and ho-fpitable. At fupper I fat by an old tartar, who feem-ed to be a perfon of diftinction among them. This old gentleman asked me many queftions about Europe, through an interpreter, particularly about the illuftri-ous family of lorrain, which furprifed me not a little. The firft difh that came before us was pilaw made of barley; then he told me in french, that it was not drelfed after the french fafhion. This brought on a converfation between us in that language, which he fpoke well, in which he informed me, that, in his youth, being with the Turkish army in Hungary, he was taken prifoner by the Duke of lorrain, who then commanded the imperial army. His highnefs took him into his fervice, in which he lived many years; and, after treating him with great humanity, at laft gave him his freedom, with liberty to return into his own country; which extraordinary favour he acknowledged with great refpect. and gratitude.
The 13th, having got frelh horfes, I left kaushan, Vol. II. D d d and
394 A JOURNEY
1738. anu* travelled to the weftward, towards the Danube,
V-^VXj leaving the rifing grounds, and came along the plain, called the (repp of budjack, which is flat, dry, barren, and uncultivated; yet there is fome good pallure, efpe-cially for fheep, of which the Turkish army have left few remaining. At night, we came to kongly, where ate about a dozen ftraggling cottages, inhabited by tartars. We made our quarters that night in the Corner of a large filed, along with our horfes.
The 1 4th, as there was nothing tempting to detain tisat kongly, we fet forwards, very early in the morning; and proceeded along the fame barren plain, without feeing houfe or tree all that day. In the evening, we came to a tartar village, called tartar-kew, where we Were tolerably well lodged and entertained.
The 15th, we left tartar-kew; and came, in the evening, to the town of ismayl, flanding on the north bank of the furious river Danube, called dun ay in thefe parrs. The place is very plcafant, within fight of the black fea. The inhabitants are chiefly turks. Here 1 was well lodged, and had good bread and wine.
The river here is very broad, and divided into feveral branches, by iflands, confiderahly large; though, when the river falls into the black fea, all the'branches
TO CONSTANTINOPLE, cs are united, and form but one mouth at its entrance into that fea. The north bank confifts of rifing grounds; the fouth is fenced with high hills. I think the Danube, at this place, may be compared with the volga at astrachan, both for breadth and quantity of water. By what I could obferve, all the great rivers, from the volga to this place, have, for the moft part, high lands for their weftern banks, and low flat lands to the eaftward.
The 16th, we paffed the north branch of the Danube in a boat, to the next ifland; but the other branches being faft frozen over, we mounted, and rode and walked by turns, the reft of the way, upon the ice; which was in many places very rough and uneven, with great ridges, confuting of pieces of ice driven together, and heaped upon one another, by ftrong eafterly winds, and the rapidity of the current. Some of the ridges of ice were at leaft feven or eight feet high; which o-bliged us to walk on foot moft part of the way. However, in the evening, we arrived fafely at a town called tultzin, Handing on the fouth bank of the river, four leagues from ismayl, where we had quarters, and o-ther means of refrelhment.
Tultzin is the firft town in the ancient kingdom
Ddd 2 of
A JOURNEY
of thrace, now reduced to a Turkish province, known by the name of Bulgaria. -The Bulgarians, who are christians of the greek church, live, for the molt part, in villages; the towns, in general, being inhabited by the turks. This place hath an old abandoned caftle, feemingly of European conftruction; and, as it Hands among hills, on the banks of the river, the In tuation is very pleafant.
The 17th, we left tultzin in the morning; towards noon we arrived at a large town, called babbadach, Handing in a delightful valley, environed by hills. At fome diftance, from the top of the hills to the eaft* ward, is a moft extenfive profpect; particularly a full view of the black sea.
It is fuppofed, that the poet ovid was banilhed and confined to this place; which muft have been no agreed-able fituation, to a man who had paffed his young days in the court of Augustus, and had entered into all the pleafures and amufements of that court, during the time of its politeft and gayeft period, in the gallantries of which he was fuppofed to act. no inconfider-able part. This amorous Poet's book de tristibus exhibits a melancholy picture of the manner of paffing
his
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 397 his latter days, at this place, fo different in climate 1738. from the happy temperament of that of italy. c/"VXJ
After changing horfes at this place, we fet forwards. At night we came to a village called kaybaly, at a fmall diftance from which we were fo bewildered, in a drift of fnow, that we loft the road; and had it not been that the barking of a dog directed us, we muft have lain in the fields all night.
The 18th, leaving kaybaly in deep fnow, we proceeded, and came to danna-kew, another village, where we paffed the night.
The 19th, we travelled through a very fine country, whereon we found very little fnow; and came at night to kabady, where we lodged.
The 20th, we proceeded, and came to a town called bazar-tzick, and fpent the night there. The town is inhabited by turks, greeks, and Bulgarians.
The 2 1 ft, we came to provady, a pretty large town, inhabited as the former.   We flayed there all night.
The 22d, we left provady; came that evening to tzengy, where we lodged.
The 23d, we continued our route; halted at a cara-vanfera, four leagues from tzengy, and after that at a town called aydoso; where having changed horfes, we
proceed-
398 A JOURNEY
1738. proceeded on our journey, and flept that night at
vh/^>^benglyr.
The 24th, we came to kanara, and lay there. I cannot but take notice of this fine country, adorned with many beautiful woods and coppices, a very rich foil, and excellent pafture; but a great deal of it lies wafte; and it is but thinly peopled.
The 25th, we came to the town of kirkgliss; from thence to that of burclass, where we remained that night.
The 26th, we went on.  We lodged that night at
tzorley.
The 27th, we reached the town of silivry, which Hands on the white sea, or the fea between the dar-danells and the port.
The 28 th, we paffed through a large town, called buyk-tzeckmidgy*, from thence the laft ftage to Constantinople.
I muft here take notice, that at silivry I was met by another Chevadar, who, inftead of conducting me directly to the city, as I expected, turned fhort to the left hand, out of the high road, carried me through by-paths, over deep and moorifhdiills, uninhabited, till at laft we came to a little village, on the top of the
hill
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 399 hill called kara-mackly, where is a neat country- 1738. houfe belonging to mustapha-cassa basha, the chief^^^^ butcher to the Sultan, a place of great trull: and honour.
I was lodged in the Bafha's houfe, and met with a friendly reception from his Kaya, or fteward, who fur-nifhed me with what neceflaries I had occafion for. In the mean time, I waited patiently for the return of a meffenger whom they had difpatched to the Bafha. This place Hands very pleafant and airy, within view of the city, and is a retreat for the Balha, and his family, in times of the plague.
It will be readily imagined, that I did not much like being earned out of the common road. But, without asking queftions, I followed my conductors.
The 20th, the meffenger returned from the city, with orders that I fhould proceed, which was very welcome news to me. Accordingly, we fet out about ten of the clock. Towards noon, we arrived at Constantinople. They conducted me directly to the houfe of md staph a basha, who received me with great civility. And, after asking a few queflions relating to my journey, he then defired that I would wait till fuch time as he fhould acquaint the Vifier of my arrival.
Musta-
1738. Mustapha basha did not return till the evening. Up-
^^^on his return, he fent an officer with me to sir eve-rard faw ken er, the British ambafTador, to whom I was addreifed, and in whofe houfe I lodged during my abode at Constantinople.
I fhall fay nothing relating to the efYecls of my com-miffion, farther, than that I punctually conformed to the terms of my inftruftions.
Here it may be obferved, that although the Russians under Count lacy, and under Count Munich, were very fuccefsful every campaign, from the commencement of the war in 1734, and made great acqui-fitions on the Turkish frontier, on that fide, by their taking asoph and otzakoff; pofTeffing themfelves of the perecop, and the crimea; and carrying their arms, the laft campaign, into Moldavia, which was ended, by a confiderable advantage gained by the Russians, at the battle of chotim; in confequence of which victory, the Bafha of chotim brought the keys of that important fortrefs to the general of the Russian army, who fent the Bafha, and the principal officers under him, prifoners to st. Petersburg; yet the Emperor of Germany's arms, in Hungary, were by no means fuccefsful; the turks gaining on the Emperor's frontier
there,
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 401 there, as much as they loft of their own frontiers to- 1738. wards Russia.   Elated by their fucceffes in hungary,^V^O during the laft campaign, the ottoman porte rofe in their demands, and infifted on higher terms than Russia thought proper to agree to.
This famous city is fo well known that I need not enter into a minute defcription, fo fhall only give a tranfient view of fuch remarkable things as occurred to me, during my fliort ftay at this place.
Constantinople is fituated in forty one and one-half degrees north latitude, twenty nine degrees eaft longitude, upon a point of land, on the European fhore, in the province of Romania, and is efteemed one of the moft delightful fituations in the world; for which reafon constantine the Great chofe it for the feat of empire, by whom it was rebuilt and beautified about the year of our Lord 330.
At a diftance the city makes a very fine appearance, having a great number of gilded fpires, and domes, or cupolas, which multiply as you approach; but, when you enter the city, the general irregularity and narrow-nefs of the ftreets do in no degree correfpond with the magnificent appearance it makes at a diftance; which is, indeed, the cafe of many of the cities and great
Vol. II. E e e towns
A JOURNEY
towns of Europe, feeming to be built at random. I have often thought, that, had a Chinese been con-fulced, he could have taught both greeks and romans how to lay out towns, and that by the fimpleft rules; viz. Let there be fpace enough, fufficient breadth of ftreet, and the houfes, on each fide, built in a ftraight line; which rules are obferved in all the towns I have feen in china, particularly pekin. This common error, in laying out towns in Europe, muft be owing to the remiflhefs of the government of nations; though this great inconvenience, in fo grand a city as con-Stan tinople, hath no relation to the (ituation of the place, yet it is thought by many, I think very juftly, that, were the ftreets of this city fpacious and regular, it would, in fome meafure, prevent the frequent pefti-lential difeafes with which this place is affected, and which prevail more here than in any other place I know; there feldom pafling a year without its making dreadful havock among the populace.
This mortal diftemper's being almoft always, more or lefs, in this city, may, in part, be attributed to a, defect in tuskish policy, which fuffers all (hips to enter the port, without requiring bills of health, at any time; even the fhips from infected places are admitted. I
do
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 4c do not know but that the belief of predeftination, pre- 1738 vailing fo univerfally among the turks, with whom it^^ is a fundamental article of their creed, may likewife contribute to the continuance of the devaluations made, by this terrible difeafe, among the human fpecies.
A very great nuifance, attending this place, is, its being peftered with a great number of nafty dogs which belong to no body; they kennel in every corner of the ftreets; it is unlawful to kill them; and they are generally fed, which is looked upon, by many of the turks, as an act. of charity.
It is, without difpute, a populous city; but far fhort of the numbers reported by common fame, which feldom keeps within bounds in things of this nature. It is true that many ftrangers refort hither daily, both from europe and asia, and many of them remain here; but then, it mult, be coniidered, how many are carried off annually by the peftilence and other difea-fes. I do not think the whole number exceeds four hundred thoufand fouls. In walking the ftreets, you often meet with people, who, to avoid converfmg with you, walk on the other fide of the ftreet, for fear of catching the diftemper ; and moft people endeavour to get to windward of each other; which, with many o-
E e e 2 ther
404 A JOURNEY
1738. tncr inconvcniencies, renders the place not very agree-L/"Y"V able to ftrangers.
From pera, a diftrict of Constantinople inhabited by Europeans, and by the foreign minifters re-fiding at the porte, there is a fine profpect of the city, and of the Grand Seignofs feraglio; which laft Hands on an eminence, with Hoping gardens, down to the edge of the canal, planted with rows of cyprefs, and other ever-greens. It hath the appearance of a moft delightful place; but, though the walks are well lhad-ed, it is not thought good manners, or even fafe, to look at them with a fpy-glafs.
Oppofite to the feraglio, on the asian fhore, Hands the ancient city of chrysopolis, or the Golden City, now called skutary, a pretty little place.
Along the fhore of the propontis, towards the fouth-weft, runs a ridge of very high mountains, called olympus, which are covered with fnow fummer and winter. The mountain of that name, mentioned by the poets, Hands in Greece.
February the 3d, there was a great fall of fnow, followed by a flrong froft, which continued for the fpace of fourteen days. I thought myfelf happy in efcaping
it;
to  constantinople. 405 it; but this weather is very acceptable to the people 1738. here, as ic tends to flop the contagious diftemper. v/*wj
I fhall now take a view of fome of the moft remarkable itructures, in and about this ancient city, which arc commonly fhown to travellers. Indeed there are but few remains of antiquity to be feen at prefent; for the turks, according to their principles, deface and ruin every thing that hath an air of idolatry, as they call it, whether pagan or christian. What christian churches they have fpared are converted into mofques.
March 2d, the weather being fine, I made a party with fome friends to ride out and fee the aqueducts, which are curious fabrics erected in order to fupply the city with frefh water. They are faid to be built by the Emperor valens. They are now kept in repair by the Grand Seignor. They Hand at unequal diftances, from four to feven, or more, miles to the norths-ward of the city, according to the refpective fupplies of water from fprings and brooks.
The long aqueduct is about feven hundred yards in length, and near thirty in heighth; it confifts of two itories or ranges of arches, one above the other, having about fifty arches in a range, all of hewn ftone, neatly wrought.
The
.irS AJOURNET
ifylfc    The crooked aqueduct, fo called from its form of v/V"\J zig.Zag, runs in this figure VVvVVV; the intent of which is to divert and leflen the force of the current; and hath a triple range of beautiful arches.
At fome diftance from this Hands the high aqueduct, the moft magnificent of all, being near three hundred yards in length, about forty in heighth, having four ftately arches, with the fame number over them, Befides, there are feveral others of leffer note, which I need not mention. They are all built to convey the water, over low vallies and hollows, to the city.
At night wc came to Belgrade, a pleafant village, inhabited by greeks, where moft of the foreign minifters have their country-houfes, to which they retire in time of the plague.
The next day we remained at this village, and walked through the woods, to a neighbouring hill, to the eaftward, from whence there is a full view of the black fea. Thefe woods are of fine oak, beech, and other timber fit for the conftruetion of a royal navy. They are well furnifhed with wild fowl, and various forts of other game.
The 4th, we left Belgrade, when, riding to the fouthward, through pleafant woods and fields, we came,
about
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 407 about noon, to a large village, called buyuck-terey, 1738. Handing on the north fhore of the canal, or thracian t-/'V\J bosphorus.  This canal is natural, burlting out from the black fea, between two high mountains, and runs, in a ftrong current, about fixteen English miles, to the city, where it difcharges itfelf into the propontis* The depth is from ten to fifteen fathoms; the breadth from about one mile to half a mile*, very well ftored with moft forts of fea-nth, particularly oyfters of a final! kind, but very delicious.   The land, on both fides, is very high, with many pleafant villages along the fhore.   At the mouth of the canal, where it begins from the black fea, the turks have built two forts to defend the paffage, one on the fhore of asia, the other on that of Europe; they may well ferve to prevent fudden incurfions, but of little ufe againft a ftrong fqua* dron of men of war, and an eafterly wind.
I was informed, that, in the reign of Sultan amu* rath, a ftrong party of cossacks came, in open boats* before thefe caftles were built, or when they were neglected, entered the canal, and put all the city in great confternation. After they had plundered many villages they returned again to their own country, with little or no lofs. 1
From
A JOURNEY
From buyuck-terey we fent our horfes home, and returned to the city by water.
Some days after this I went to fee the Sultan, as he came from his devotions at the mofque called jeney-jamey. He was on horfeback, attended by a fmall troop of fpahis on horfeback, and fome janizaries on foot. Mahmuth hath a good afpect, and bears the character of being of a humane, peaceable difpofition. This Prince fucceeded achmet, who was depofed, a-bout feven years before, by one named a li-patrone, a janizary, and his alfociates, all people of low degree; the next in command to ali patrone, or kalyll as he is commonly called, was muss-luch, a dealer in melons and other fruits; the third was emy-aly. Thefe three chiefs governed the Turkish empire near a month. After they had placed mahmuth on the throne, they depofed the Grand Vifier, and difpofed of all offices, civil and military, at pleafure. Ali-patro-ne, in the mean time, was very fober, never changing his habit, came every morning to the janizaries hall, where he fat as fovereign judge, and gave fentence on all caufes, that were brought before him, without delay; was very charitable to the poor, and rectified many abufes in the ftate. That magnificent Vifier, ibrahim-
basha,
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 409 1 ash a, who had introduced printing, fell a facrifice to 1738. the rebels. v^VXJ
One action of kalyll's I cannot omit relating, as It evinces, that his high ftation did not produce forget-fulnefs of his old friends. There was one janaky a greek, a butcher by trade, who had formerly lent ali-patrone half a dollar. He fent for this butcher, and made him Hofpodar or prince of Moldavia. Poor janaky would willingly have been excufed from accepting fo high an office. But his patron infilled on his taking it.
However, thefe mighty chiefs being intoxicated with power, began to intoxicate themfelves with wine alfo; and they were at length caught in a fnare, laid for them by sultan geray, Chan of the crim tartars, who had been fent for, by fome of the grandees, for that end. Sultan geray fucceeded fo well, that the chiefs were cut off, the reft difperfed, and the government re-eftabliihed on the fame footing as heretofore with very little bloodfhed; the particulars of which be-*ng> m general> weU known, I fay no more of that affair.
The next place I was carried to was the mint, where Vol. II. F f f I faw
u •
410 a JOURNEY
i j^S. I faw them coining money of different forts.  It Hands
^V^Jin the outer court of the feraglio.
From thence I went to the famous church of sang-ta sophia, now converted into a mofque. There being already many defcriptions extant, of this ancient fabrick, I fhall only obferve, that it was rebuilt, and adorned, by the Emperor justinian, about the year of our lord 500. It is highly efteemed by architects, for the flatnefs of the dome, or cupola, which, it is faid, the moderns cannot imitate.
In time of war, christians are not permitted to enter the mofque. Neverthelefs, we were conducted up a pair of back-flairs to the gallery, from whence we had a full view of the whole. The floor is laid with clean mats and carpets, having no feat, only one pulpit for the Mullah. The gallery is laid with marble, fupported by about one hundred marble pillars, of various colours and fizes, molt of them, at lead, between five and fix feet diameter. The whole of the infidc hath a noble and grand appearance. At the entry into the gallery, is an old veflry, with the door clofed up; of which a greek, of my acquaintance, told me the following fhort flory, viz. A certain Mullah being in the veflry, faw, or fancied that he faw, a man on horfeback,
wich
TO CONSTANTINOPLE, with a fword in his hand, who bid him begone out of j that holy place, &c. This, like other tales of the fame nature, was not long a fecret; and was interpreted to have been no other than constantine the Great. However fabulous the ftory appears, the door of the veftry hath been condemned fince that time.
From sancta sophia I was conducted to the Hippodrome, where the greeks ufed formerly to train their horfes to the menage, now called the att-may-dan ; and is ftill applied to the fame ufe by the turks. It is a fpacious oblong fquare, having a pretty marble obelisk in the middle. On one fide of it is a pillar of brafs, with ferpents twining round it; this is fomewhat defaced, and is about ten foot high.
In the great ftreet, at fome diftance from the Hippodrome, ftands another venerable monument of antiquity; a large and tall pillar, called the Burnt-pillar, becaufe it hath greatly fuffered by a fire in the neighbourhood, which hath cracked it in diverfe places; this is a misfortune common to narrow ftreets, and not to be remedied without a well regulated police. This pillar is of porphyry, about twenty yards high.
We went thence to fee the grand refervoir, built with intent of fupplying the city with water in cafe of
Fff 2 a
1738. a fiege.  This muft have coft an immenfe fum of mo-
v*/VXJney; for it is all of it under ground; above it are ftreets and houfes. It is not far from the Hippodrome. Towards the water fide, the covering of it is fupported by a great number of arches, and many hundreds of ftone pillars, of which not a few are fallen down, and the whole of it is going apace to decay. There was no water in it.
There is another ancient fibrick, known by the name of edikuly, or feven towers, ftanding on an e-minence to the weftward; which is now a common pri-fon. Near the middle of the city ftands a fmall tower, called belisarius; whether or not it was the houfe of that great and unfortunate general I could not learn.
Oppofite to the feraglio, near the middle of the canal, ftands a fmall round tower, upon the fummit of a fmall rock, called leanders tower. This, with the foregoing, are the few remains of antiquity commonly (hown to ftrangers.
The haven, which divides the city from that diftricT: of it called pera, for its extent and depth of water, may probably equal, perhaps furpafs, the beft in the known world, well fenced on all fides by riling grounds. Near the bottom of the haven, is a fpacious and moft
conveni-
TO CONSTANTINOPLE, convenient yard for building fhips and galleys, with fuitable magazines and ware-houfes for keeping the cordage, guns, ammunition, and for every material re-quifite for building and fitting men of war and galleys for the fea.
Adjoining is a place called the bagnio, appropriated to the lodging and accommodating galley-flaves; where, it may be fuppofed, they do not pafs their time very agreeably.
My next walk was to fee the Dervifes at worfhip; they are a religious order of the Mahometans who have a mofque in pera, built in a circular form, with a pulpit for the Mullah, and a gallery built in a nich, made in the circle, for the mufick. The fermon being ended, the muficians began on various inftruments, which were like the European flutes and hautboys, upon which five of the Dervifes flood up, and danced round the mofque, in a frantick manner, turning themfelves round, as they advanced, with fo quick a motion, that their faces were hardly diflinguifhable from other parts of their heads. They followed each other at certain diftances; but an old man, of fourfcore years, outdid all the reft in quicknefs of turning round. Yet, when he left off, he did not feem to be at all difcom-
pofed
4H A JOURNEY
1738. pofcd by the violence of the motion.   This extrava-
^VX^gant feci: make vows of poverty and chaftity, travel o-ver all the eaft, where the religion of mahomet prevails, and are held in great efteem, by the devout of that profelTion.
The 9th of March, the army intended for Hungary, under the command of eggeny-mahomet-basha, the Grand Vifier, began to file off to the camp affign-ed for them, about three miles to the northward of the city. The proceflion continued four days; and, as ufual, when the Sultan himfelf, or the Grand Vifier, take the field in perfon, the troops are attended by all the different trades and artifans to the place of encampment, each trade having the proper drefs and badges of their refpective profelfion, with banners, mufick, &c.
The firft day, the janizaries marched, with their Aga, or chief commander, at their head, followed by a numerous multitude of artifnns. The firft, in pro-celTion, was a plough drawn by painted oxen, with gilded horns. It would be tedious to mention the reft particularly; I fhall only obferve, that fome of this ra-gamufrian crew made frightful figures, being naked to the wafte, with fabres run through the flefby part of
their
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 415 their arms, and befmeared with blood; a mocking Ipec- 1738. tacle!
The fecond day s proceflTon, was the pioniers and miners, with their different tools and utenfils.
The third day, the cannoniers marched.
The fourth day, the Vifier marched out, attended by the general officers of the army, a great many Spa-his and Janizaries, and all the different trades of the town; among which rabble, were many fuch banditti as above defcribed, naked for the molt part of the body, all bloody. The Grand Mufti was in the fame coach with the Grand Vifier, and had the alcoran carried by a Mullah, who fat likewife in the fame coach, op-pofite to the Mufti; which was preceded by a number of fingers, in their proper habits, finging as they went along. Before the coach, was carried the ftandard of mahomet, which is a horfes tail, faid to be brought from heaven by the angel gabriel to mahomet; and is held in great veneration, feldom appearing but on great folemnities; after which it is carried back to the feraglio, where it remains till the next occafion.
When war is declared againft: any prince or ftate, the horfe-tail is fet up at the gate of the feraglio, called alla-capy, or the port of god, from whence the
Grand
4i6 A JOURNEY
1738. Grand Seignor dates all his difpatches; and, on that
v*/"V>w> account, the court of the Grand Seignor is commonly called the ottoman porte, and the sublime porte. But when the Sultan is in the field, at the head of his army, he dates all his letters and orders from his ftir-rup. All generals who have three horfe-tails, are called Vifier; but the Grand Vifier, who is always prime minifter, governs and directs all affairs relating to the ftate, both foreign and domeftick; next to him, in power, is the Kaymacan, who is his lieutenant; after him Nifangy Bafha, keeper of the feals; then Kap-ad-gee Bafha, chief porter; Killar-agafly, the chief eunuch; thefe are the principal great officers at court. It happens often, that the KiflaragalTy hath more to fay than all the reft put together; for although the ladies live very retired, yet they are not fo ignorant as is generally imagined. And, if I am not misinformed, matters of the greateft confequence are canvalled, and often fettled in the feraglio, before they are prefented to the miniftry. One thing is certain, that whoever wants a favour at court needs no better recommendation than a friend among the ladies.
Soon after my arrival, I had an invitation from the famous Count bonneval, who then was ill of the
gout
TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 417 gout; but, in time of war, it was not thought fit that 1738. I fhould vifit that gentleman. L^V"\J
March 15th, Sir everard faavkener went to the camp to take leave of the Grand Vifier, as is ufual for all the foreign minifters to do, on the like occafions. We difmounted at fome diftance from the tent of this great man, were conducted, by an officer, to a magnificent tent, near to that of the Vifier, and entertained with coffee, &c. for about a quarter of an hour; after which the ambaffador, accompanied by the gentlemen of his retinue, went to the Vifier s tent, where a ftool was prepared for his excellency; the gentlemen flood during the time the ambaffador remained. The Vifier fat, crofs-legged, on a fopha raifed about half a foot from the floor, which was all laid with rich carpets. Very near him flood a frame, on which were hung fome muskets, fabres, &c. of very curious workman-lhip, ornamented richly with gold, filver, and ftones of value, as emeralds, rubies, &c. The Turkish camps are, in general, very regular and clean.
The fhort ceremony being over, we returned again to the city. After fome days the Grand Vifier marched to adrianople, in his way to Hungary.
Being about to leave this city, I fhall detain the
Vol. II. G g g reader
A JOURNEY reader with no more particulars than the following
fhort obfervations.
In turky there are few families who have any di-flinguifhing titles or honours, appertaining to them, which defcend to their children. AH titles of honour, and places of power and profit, in the Sultans dominions, depend on perfonal merit, or the Sultan's favour, which dies with the poffeflbr. The only two families, who have a juft claim to nobility, are thofe of dgiggal-oglu and kuperly; who, for fignal fervices done to the empire, have peculiar privileges; one, in particular, that the Sultan, as it is faid, cannot condemn them to death. It feems, that, on a very critical conjuncture, when affairs were in great diforder, the Sultan died, kuperly kept it a fecret for fix weeks; in which time, by his prudent conduct, the government was eftablifhed on a proper footing. Befides thefe, there are defcendents of their prophet Mahomet's family, of which there are great numbers, who are diftinguifhed by wearing green, and enjoy fome privileges.
Having nothing more to do at Constantinople, I am now about to return to st. Petersburg. As I had a commiffion from Sir everard fawkener for the
Grand
TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 419 Grand Vifier, who was then at adrianople, I took 1738. that road. v/^VXJ
April 8ch, after taking leave of my friends, I fet out from Constantinople, accompanied by a tzaufh, or meffenger, a janizary, and my own fervant.
The 1 3 th, in the morning, I came to the city of adrianople, where I lodged, at the houfe of Mr. da-miral, a greek gentleman, who is agent at this place for our ambaffador, where I found a friendly reception.
The city of adrianople is about forty leagues north-weft from Constantinople, in a pleafant country, inhabited by turks, greeks, and fome jews. The Capuchins have alfo a convent here. The town Is pretty large; and is remarkable for having a very noble grand mofque, with very high minorets, of excellent workmanihip. The architect, was a greek, of whom it is reported, that the Grand Seignor, being amazed at the extraordinary contrivance and execution which the architect: exhibited in thofe buildings, thought that nothing of mechanifm was out of his reach, and ordered him to make himfelf wings, and to fly off from the top of one of the minorets; which the poor builder was forced to attempt; after flying a con-
G g g 2 fiderable
420 A JOURNEY
1738. folerable diftance, he fell among fome tombs, and <<yy^\J broke his neck.   I do not vouch for the truth of the ftory; but I was fhown the tombs, in the neighbourhood, among which it is faid that he fell.
The 14th, I had a vifit from Monfieur peisonell, the french agent, and fome of the Capuchin Fathers.
The 15th, I went to return the vifit at the convent. In coming through the market-place, in the way to my lodgings, I met with a very difagreeable fpeclacle; which was two men, lying ftark naked, without their heads, which had been juft before cut off. They were laid to have been fpies.
After difcharging my commiflion to the Grand Vifier, which I effected through Mr. damiral, and obtaining an order for poft-horfes, I left adrianople the 17th, and proceeded on my journey to the northward; in which I need not be particular, having mentioned moft of the places in the former part of this relation. I took the neareft way for yassy in Moldavia.
The 26th, we palfed the Danube, in a boat, at a place called kal ass, a few leagues above ismayl.
The 2yth, we arrived at the city of yassy. The next day I waited on the Prince, who received me in a
moft
TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 421 moil: friendly manner. He gave orders for horfes, and 1738. two of his guards, to conduct: me to the frontiers of ^V^O Poland. He likewife fent an officer to accompany me as far as nemiroff.  I then difcharged my tzaufh and janizary, who returned back to Constantinople. May ift, I left yassy; and came, the next day, to
soroka.
The 3d, I left soroka, paffed the Dniester, and came to tamas-poly, where I lodged.
The 5th, I got to nemiroff, and at this place delivered all my difpatches for europe to General rus-sot sky, to be forwarded according to addrefs.
The 1 oth, I arrived at kioff; and fet out again the fame day.
On the 17th of May I arrived at st. Petersburg. It is to be noted, all my dates are old (tile.
I fhall
Stages between mosco and Constantinople, I (hall fubjoin a lift of all the ftages and diftances
from st. petersburg to constantinople. As I haVC,
in a former journey, particularized the ftages to mosco, I need not repeat them here.
Verfts.
From Sc. Petersburg to the city of Mofco 734 From Mofco, cowards Kioff,
		Sela Packra	30
the village of		Tzeniskoy	35
		Lykof Vrague	
		Dobrichach	35
Town	of	Caluga	40
Town	of	Lykvyn	3°
Town	of	Belof	40
Town	of	Bolfhof	4O
		Selo Glotovo	35
Town	of	Karczof	35
		Selo Samova	3°
		Selo Tzaianka	30
Village	of	Lieubulh	3°
Town	of	Seyefski	3°
		Tolfto Dubovo	40
	To be carried over		1254
Stages between mosco and Constantinople.
Verfts, Brought over 1254
From        Town of Gluchovo 30
to           Town of Korolevitz go,
Town of Batturin 44
Borzna 3 3
Nefhina 48
Nofofka 28
Koffelitz 38
Semipologue 2 5
Brovary 29
City of Kioff jj
From St. Petersburg to Kioff x586
The verft in Ruftia confifts of 1166} Englifh yards; fo that the diftance from Sc. Pecersburg to Kioff, being 1586 verfts, is 1051 -\ Englifh miles. From Kioff to Soroka. Polifh miles. Polifh miles.
From Kioff Brought up    14
to Vaftilkoff 5 FromSamgorod 1
Belozyrkoff 6 to Golochuaft l
Shamarayofka 2 Pogrebifha 2
Squeer 1 Spitzinitz 2
To be carried up 14      To be carried over 20
Stages between mosco and Constantinople.
Polifh miles.  From Soroka the frontier, Brought over 20     to Yafly the capital of
From Oczeredno to Lipovitz Vytofsky Kavalefka Nemiroff Pctzery Spykoff Lefkovitz Tamaz-Poly Kleynbofka Tzikanofka on the Dniefl er, on the bank oppo-fite is Soroka
39
Moldavia, reckoning the Turkifh fahat, or hour, to be three Englifh miles.
Englifh miles.
From Soroka to Kaynar 12
Hetfh 12
Meygura 24 River Pruth 12 City of Yaffy    12
From Soroka to Yafly 72
From Yafly to Bender.
Englifh* miles. From Yafly
1 2
Computing 6; Englifh miles   to Rofinar to a Polifh mile, the ,di- Voltzinitz fiance from Kioff to Soro- Kofhufhna ka will be 253 \ Englifh Kifhanoff miles. Bender 24
From Yafly to Bender 81
From
l5
24 6
Stages between mosco and Constantinople. From Bender to the Da- Englifh miles.
nube along the deferc of		Brought up	78
Budjack.		From Kabady	12
Englifh miles.		to Aly-Beg-Kiew	12
From Bender		Bazartzick	24
to Kaufhan	12	Ufheny	6
Kongley	24 -	Provady	24
Tartarken	30	Yeny-Kicw	9
Town of Ifmayl	21	Tzenggy	6
FromBender to Ifmayl 8 7		A Caravanfera	12
		Aydofe	12
From Ifmayl to Conftanti-		Benglyr	9
nople.		Kara-Bunar	»5
Englifh	miles.	Faky	1 2
From Ifmayl, crofs the		Kangry	12
Danube,		Kirglifs	24
to Tultzin	12	Bourgafs	24
Babbadach	18	Tzorby	3°
Kaybaly	18	Silivry	24
Kodjalo	6	Buyuck Tzeck-	
Iftere	6	miday	18
Danna-Kew	6	Conftantinople	18
Kara-Su	1 2 From Ifm. to Conflant. 381		
To be carried up	78		
Vol. II.	H hh		The
Stages between mosco and Constantinople. The whole diftance from St. Petersburg to Con*
ftantinople, I take to be about 1925 Engliih meafur-
ed miles, of 1760 yards each mile.
The feveral diftances as follow, viz.
From St. Petersburg to Kioff   1051 meafured miles*
From Kioff to Soroka, the frontier of Moldavia,   -   -   -   253 computed miles.
From Soroka to Yafly -   -   -    72 Do.
From Yafly to Bender - - -      81 Do.
From Bender to Ifmayl - - -     87 Do.
From Ifmayl to Conftantinople 3 81 Do.
*925
Thus I have finifhed my fourth eaftern journey, which, in all probability, will be my laft to that quarter of the globe. I would not advife any man to undertake this laft, at fuch a feafon of the year as I did, or in time of war.
F   I   N   I S.
alterations
by the author.
		vol. r.	Page.	Line. Read.
Page.	Line. Read,		392	jo    four or five hundred thou-
i 2		feren weeks.		fand roubles.
14	7	September 21ft.	338	11 ivory-fticks.
16	1	C herca SKY.		
18	11	November.		VOL. ii.
168	22	katherina-burg.	46	12    near the feventieth.
220	21	Mafia nitza.	129	18    dele ly in quickly.
	2	fheds.	149	13 irkutsky.
ib.	11	for rai/ins r. almonds.	166	id col. 1. 7. read 3119.
299	16	urga.	332	ult. could.
(
V