G apt a ii n John Hit n ter A X ■ HIST O It I C A L JOT R X A L ul* I In- TRANSACTIONS ;i I V Q R T J A CKS G N as ■> X () R V OLK [SL A XI), //■/'/// //V ^ //.)//■/ '///■/., ////// ///// ///// ///,/,/,> \k w south Walks and in tub Southern Ocean si rue llic publication of By IOHJT Hl'NTER.I'sq1: POST CA l'TAIN IN BIB MAJESTY'S NAVY". >//'///fi/// ./, A r/////' < ///A///. >/////t'rr//<>*' ' A/'//(/ /. L O X D O IV . O^'sOa/ /or f.%A^n ^Acid-dti/* , /<;;////////, 1 A L I S T O F SUBSCRIBERS. A. A LTAMONT, Countcfs of Andrews, James Pettit, Efq; Abercbrn, Marquis of Atkins, Edwin Martin, Efq; Kingfton-Liflc Addington, Right Hon. Henry, Speaker of the Houfe of Commons Arden, Sir Richard Pepper, Matter of the Rolls Arden, John, Efq; Afliley-Hall, Chefhirc Appleyard, Mr. 6 Copies Arch, J. and A. 6 Copies Anderfon, Mr. J. 2 Ditto Archer, Mr. John, Duhlin, 12 Ditto Aftley, Mrs. Duckenfteld Lodge, Chefhire B. Banks, Sir Jofcph, Bart. Bolton, Duke of Berkeley, Captain Bath, Marquis of Buckingham, Marquis of Badcock, Colonel, Little Miflendcn-Abbey, Bucks. Beft, Richard, Efq; Chatham Buccleugh, Duke of Brad maw, Mr. Beaufort, Duke of Bunbury, Sir Charles, Bart. Barnard, Mr. jun. Brcdalbane, Earl of Barker, Lieutenant-Colonel Barwell, Richard; Efq; Bay ham, Lord Browne, Mr. William, Briflol Baldwin, Mr. 6 Copies Becket, Mr. 6 Ditto Bell, Mr. 6 Ditto Brown, Mr. 3 Ditto a Curzon, C. Curzon, Lady Charlotte Chefterfiekl, Earl of Cherry, George, Efq; Chalmers, George, Efq; Charhton Library Charlfton, Senate of Chichefter, Sir John, Bart, Chatham, Earl of Caftera, J. Paris Clarke, George Hyde, Efq; Hyde-Halt, Chefhirc Cock, Thomas Theophilus, Efq; Meffing, EfTex Clarke, Edward, Efq; Cadell, Mr. 2 Copies Clr/ke and Son, 2 Ditto Crowder, Mr. 2 Ditto Cole, Lieutenant George Coxe, Daniid, Efq; D. Dacre, Lord Darby, W. T. Efq; Dartmouth, Earl of Dorfet, Duke of Dalrymplc, Alexander, Efq; Davifon, Alexander, Efq; Dimfdale, R. J. Efift Delaval, Lord Donowell, Mr. John, Architect Dover, Lord Deighton, Mr. 7 Copies Policial, Marquis of Dc Lancy, Colonel De la Pole, Sir John, Bart. De Sauflurc, H. W. Efq; Charlfton Darton and Harvey, 6 Copies Dilly, Mr. 12 Ditto Dangcr/ield, Mr, E Elgin, Earl of Ekins, Charles, Efq; Eardley, Lord Eliot, Lord Enys, John, Efq; Endcrby, Samuel, Efq; Edwards, Mr. R. 8 Copies Edwards, Mr. J. 6 Ditto Egerto'n, T. and J. 6 Ditto Evans, Mr. James, 6 Ditto Edwards, John, Efq; F. Forbes, Hon. John, Admiral of the Fleet Fife, Earl of Frederick, Sir Join, "art Fitzhenry, Thomas, Efq; Faukler, Mr. 30 Copies Fadcn, Mr. W. 6 Ditto G. Gloucefter, His Royal Highncfs the Duke of Grenvflle, Lord Grote, George, Efq; Gardner, Alan, Efq; Green, Sir William, Bart. 4 Grams, Gr«me, Charles, Efq; Grantham, Lady Goldfmith, Mr. 4 Copies Goulding, Mr. Gray, Mr. 2 Copies 11. Hillfborough, Earl of Hobart, Major Hardwicke, Earl of Howe, Hon. Mrs, Howe, Countefs Howe, Lady Mary Hall, Rev. Mr. Howard de Walden, Lord Heathcote, Thomas, Efqj Home, Patrick, Efq; Hood, Lord Hopetoun, Earl of Hunter, John, Efq; Hawkefbury, Lord Hawke, Lord Haydon and Son, Plymouth, 3 Copies Hamilton, Mr. 3 Ditto Hookham and Carpenter, 6 Ditto Hodgfon, Mr. 2 Ditto Hanmer, Job, Efq; Holbrook-Hall, Suffolk J- Jackfon, Sir George, Bart. Jones, Robert, Efq; Fonmore-Caftle, Glamorgan (hire. Jeffery, Mr. 3 Copies Jehnfon, Mr. 12 Ditto Kelly, Earl of Kirby, Mr. 2 Copies L. Leeds, Duke of Lenox, Lord George Law, Thomas, Efq; Lucadou, James, Efq; Lettfom, Dr. Leflie, Mr. George, Edinburgh Legg, Mr. Bafingftoke 1 Loveden, Edward Loveden, Efq;. Long, Charles, Efq; Long, Samuel, Efq; Law and Son, 12 Copies Lowndes, Mr. 2 Ditto Lackington, Mr. 2 Ditto Longman, Mr. 6 Ditto M Montrofe, Duke of Martindale, John, Efq; MofTop, Rev. Mr.. Academy, Brighton Mac Leod, Colonel Macdonald, Sir Archibald, Attorney-General Mitchell, Captain Mcyrick, John, Efq; Macaulay, Mr. Alderman. Montagu, M. Efq; Madden, James, Efq; Mornington, Earl, of Miller, Lady Madox, John, Efq;: M'Queen, Mr. 2 Copies-Murray, Mr. 25 Ditto Miller, Mr. 3 Ditto a % Nfwcaftlfj Newcaftle, Duke of Ncpean, Evan, Efq; Nclthorpc, John, Efq; Lincoln Nicholls, Mr. Northcfk, Earl of O. Otridge, Mr. 4 Copies Ogilvie and Co. 2 Ditto P. Pitt, Right Hon. William Peachy, John, Efq; Peachy, Sir James, Bart. Petrie, William, Efq; Patterfon, John, Efq; Norwich Putland, William, Efq; Pye, Henry James, Efq; Pinckncy, Charles, Efq; Charleston Payne, Mr. 6 Copies Phillips, Mr. 6 Ditto R. Rivers, Lord Rofe, George, Efq; Rittfon, John, Efq; Rallall, Rev. Mr. Newark Robinfon, Thomas, Efq; Rolt, Colonel, Bagden-Lodgc, Marlborough Regiment, 73d Bengal Rudge, Samuel, Efq; Robfon, Mr. 27 Copies Robinfons, Meffrs. G. G. J. and J. 50 Ditto Rivingtons, Meifrs. F. and C. 6 Ditto Richardfon, Mr. 6 Copies Redhead, Henry, Efq; S. Salifbury, Marquis of Stafford, Marquis of Sydney, Vifcount St. John, Lord Sandcrfon, Sir James, Lord Mayor of the City of London Smyth, John, Efq; Salifbury, E. W. V. Efq; Spencer, Earl Stanley, Colonel Smith, Sir John, Bart. Stephens, Phillip, Efq; Sotheron, William, Efq; Sturt, Charles, Efq; Scawen, James, Efq; Spence, George, Efq; Sylveltcr, Mr. John Stoekdale, Mr. Jeremiah, Mill-Maker to his Majefty ( Scott, Rev. George Sael, Mr. 2 Copies Southern, Mr. 3 Ditto Sewell, Mr. 6 Ditto Strachan, Mr. 6 Ditto Scatchard and Co. 6 Ditto Symonds, Mr. 12 Ditto Steel, Mr. 6 Ditto T. Thornton, Robert, Efq; Townfhend, Hon. J. T. Tihe, Robert Stearne, Efq; Clanville Lodge, Andover Thornton, Mr. 3 Urry, U. Urry, Captain, R. N. Vanfittart, Nicholas, Efq; Vernor and Hood, 6 Copies W. Walfingham, Lord Warren, Dr. Worcefter, Marquis of Weymouth, Lord Wray, Sir Cecil, Bart. Woodford, Sir Ralph, Bart. Warwick, Earl of Wedgewood, Jofiah, Efq; Wentworth, Lord Wright, Mr. William, Academy, Apfley, Wooburn, Bcdfordfltire Wenman, Right Hon. Vifcount W. W. Wood, Mr. Hutton Worcefter Society Watts, Lieutenant John, R. N. Warren, Sir John Borlafe, Bart, Wilkie, Mr. 6 Copies White and Sons, 6 Ditto Walker, Mr. David, 2 Ditto Walker, Mr. John, 6 Ditto Walter, Mr. 12 Ditto Y. Young, Arthur, Efq; Yates, Jofeph, Efq; Young, Sir George Yorkc, Charles, Efq; LIST of PLATES. I- Captain Hunter to face the Title. 2. Vignette on the Title Page, for the Defcription, fee Page 14* 3. A Map of New South Wales, - to face Page 1 a.. View of the Settlement on Sydney Cove, Port Jackfon, 77 5. The Southern Hemifphere, mewing the Track of the Sirius, 126 6. A Chart of Botany-Bay, Port Jackfon, and Broken-Bay, with the Coaft and Soundings, - - - -160 7. View at Rofe-Hill, - - - - - 201 8. A Man of Lord Howe's Groupe, - - - • 222 9. A Man of the Duke of York's Ifland, - - - 233 1©. Canoes of the Duke of York's-Ifland, - 237 11. Canoes of the Admiralty Iflands, - 24.0 J2. Track of the Waakfamhcyd Tranfport - 265 13. A Plan of Norfolk-Ifland, - - - - - 393 14. A Family of New South Wales, - 15. Non-Defcript Shells, of New South Wales, Plate I. - 581 16. Ditto,......Plate II. 582 17. Ditto,......Plate III. 583 C O N- CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Page The flips dejlined for Botany-Bay rendezvous at the Mother-Bank.— Leave that place, and proceed on the voyage.—The convicts on board one of the tranfports attempt an infurreclion.—Are timely difcovered, and the ringleaders punifljed.—Arrival at Santa Cruz.—Tranfaclions there.—Attempt of a convict to efcape.—'Defcription of Laguna, and the adjacent country.—Departure from Santa Cruz.—Pafs Cape Frio.—Arrive at Rio faneiro.-—Tranfaclions there.—City of St. Sebafiian defcribed.—Table of Winds, Weather, &c. 1, CHAPTER II. Anchor in Table-Bay.—Refrejhments procured there.—Depart from the Cape of Good Hope.—Captain Phillip quits the Sirius, and proceeds on the voyage in the Supply.—The Sirius arrives in Botany-Bay.— Finds the Supply at anchor there.—Arrival of tlje Bufole and Aflrolabe.—Leave Botany-Bay, and anchor in Port fackfon.—The Table of Winds, Weather, 6cc. - - - - - 29 A C II A P- CHAPTER III. Page Frequent interviews with the natives.—Weapons defcribcd.~~Omaments\ —Perfons, manners, and habitations.—Method of hunting.—Animals defcribed.—Birds, and infects.'—Diary of the weather.—Departure of the Bujfolc and Afirolabe.—A convict pretends to have difcovered a gold mine.—The fraud detected.—Obfervations for the longitude, &c. - - - - - - - ~ 52 CHAPTER IV. The Sirius leaves Port Jackfon.—Sails for the Cape of Good Hope, by the Eaftern Pafj'age.—Falls in with many large i/lands of ice.—Cafts anchor at Robins Ifland.—Tables of the winds, weather, &c. 89 CHAPTER V. Depart from Robin's Ifland, and anchor in Table Bay.,—■-The ftck fent on jhore.—Arrival of the Alexander tranfport.—Provifions procured for the fettlement at Port Jackfon.—Departure of the Sirius.—In great danger from a violent temp eft.—Arrives fafe at Port Jackfon. Tables of the winds, weather, variation of the compafs, &c. 11 o CHAPTER VI. The J"mall-pox makes its appearance among the natives.—Its fatal effects. —A criminal court held.—Six marines tried and convicted.—Governor Phillip viftts Broken-Bay.—Explores its various inlets.—Returns to Port Jackfon.—Broken-Bay furveyed.—Botany-Bayfurveyed.—Two natives brought to the fettlement, and kindly treated.—One of them makes his efcape. - - - - - - - 132 CHAP* CHAPTER VII. Page The Sirius and Supply fail for Norfolk-Ifland.—Land the marines and convicts.—Wreck of the Sirius.—Some provifions faved.—Martial Law eftablifed.—Ratio of provifions fettled.—Vaft numbers of birds caught.—In dijlrefs for provifions.—Receive a fupply from Port Jackfon.—Officers and crew of the Sirius leave Norfolk-Ifland, and arrive at Port Jackfon.—Norfolk-Ifland defcribed.—Its fituation and extent.—Soil.—Climate, &c.—Table of Winds, &c. - - 171 CHAPTER VIII. Great improvement of the country at Rofe-IIill.—Vicijjitude of the climate.—Norfolk-Ifland remarkably healthy.—A native runs away from the fettlement.—Frequent vi/its from the natives.—Governor Phillip wounded by the natives with a fpear.—Natives again vifit the fettlement.—'Entertain the governor, &c. with a dance.— Decorate wemfelves for that purpofe.—Method of dancing defcribed.— Mujic andfmging. - - - - - - - 201 CHAPTER IX. Captain Hunter leaves Port Jackfon in the Waakfamheyd tranfport.— In danger amongfl fome iflands.—Ijle of Pines defcribed.—Stewart's if and difcovered.—Fall in with Bradley's fioals.—Di/cover a clufter oj iflands.—Name them Lord Howe's groupe.—The natives defcribed. —Attempt to find anchorage on the coaft of New-Britain.—Are dif-appointed.—Anchor at the Duke of York's If and.—Attempt to procure water.—Are attacked by the natives.—A few Jhotsfred.—The natives difperfed.—A reconciliation effected.—Natives defcribed.— A 2 Weapons. / Page Weapons.—Ornaments, —Produce and foil.^-LeaDe the Duke of York's Jjland.—Natives from the Admiralty Iflands vifit the flip. •—Their canoes defcribed.—Phillip's I/lands difcovered.—Anchor at Hummock Ifland.—Rifreflments procured,—Vijited by the Raja.—A quarrel enfues.>—Several of the natives killed.—Articles of barter in requefl.—-Canoes defcribed.—Leave Hummock Ifland.—Anchor at Batavia.—Tables of latitude and longitude, &c. - - 214. CHAPTER X. Captain Hunter waits on the Governor at Batavia.—Applies for a paffage to England.—Purchafes the Waakfamheyd for that purpofe. —Leaves Batavia.—Pafes the Reelings.—Arrives at the Cape of Good Hope.—Leaves that place, and anchors at Saint Helena.— Departs from Saint Helena.—Arrives at Portfmouth.—Tables for the variation of the compafs.—Captain Hunter s letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, ------- 274. CHAPTER XI. Lieutenant King vi/its Monfeur De laPeroufe at Botany-Bay.—Polite reception there.—An account of his adventures.—Lieutenant King returns to Port Jackfon.—Sent by Governor Phillip to form a fettlement on Norfolk-Ifland.—Leaves Port Jackfon.—An ijland difcovered. —Arrival at Norfolk-Ifland.—Difficulty in finding a landing-place. —Land the convicts, provifions, and fores.—Ground cleared, and tents fixed.—A fore-houfe erected.—Vegetables and various forts of grain fown.—Diflrcffed by rats.—General orders for the regulation if the fettlement, - - * •* - - - 289 a, C H A P- CHAPTER XII. Page Regular employment of the convicts.—Meet with an unlucky accident.— Thefts detected.—The robberspunifljed.—Pefiered with rats.—Method of' deftroying them.—Live Jlock on the fettlement.—Trees difcovered which afford food for hogs.—Some of the fettlers poifoned.—Cured with fweet oil.—A convict punijhed for ujing fdhious language.— Birds on the ifland.—Defcription of Arthur s Vale.—His Majeflys birth-day kept.—Flouriflnng fate of the gardens.—Arrival of the Supply.—Four perfons drowned.—Provifions and flores received.— Queries from Governor Phillip, and theanfwers.—Ball-Bay defcribed. The landing-place cleared.—Arrival of the Golden Grove tranfport. Marines and convicts brought in the Golden Grove.—Provifions and fores, - -- -- -- -- 310 CHAPTER XIII. Quantity of provifions received by the Golden Grove.—Timber fent to Port Jackfon.—Obfervations on the navigation near Norfolk-Ifland. —Number of perfons on th$ fettlement—Nepean and Phillip Iflands defcribed.—Corn reaped.—A party fent to Ball-Bay.—Tafk-work of the convicts.—The free-people exercifed.—Plot to feize the ifland dif-■ covered.—Orders made public for the prefervation of regularity.— Oath cf allegiance adminiflered.—Provifions audflores examined, 335 CHAP- CHAPTER XIV. Page violent hurricane at Norfolk-Ifland.—Arrival of the Supply.— Convicts fent from Port Jackfon.—Provifions andfores.—Departure of the Supply.—Robberies committed.—Employment of the convicts.— Wheat infcjled with caterpillars.—A flore-houfe erected.—Arrival of a party of marines from Port Jackfon.—Thefts committed.—Orders read for preferving regularity .—A female convict punijked.—Pernicious effects of the grub-worm.—Gardens plundered.—A granary erected.—Wheat deflroyed by parroquets.—Number of inhabitants on the if and, - -- -- -- - ^56 CHAPTER XV. The arrival of the Sirius and Supply at Norfolk-Ifland.—The lofs of the Sirius.—Captain Hunter and the crew faved.—A genera f meeting of the officers convened.—Sundry regulations adopted..-—Martial-Law proclaimed.—Lieutenant-Governor Rofs takes the command.—Lieutenant King leaves Norfolk-Jfand.—Defcripiion of Norfolk-Ifland. •—Face of the country. —Water—Soil—Climate—Timber—Infects— Fijh—Seafons—Winds—Coafl, and Bays,—Prefent flaie of cultivation.—General behaviour of the convicts.—Number of inhabitants on the ifland.—Grain and live-flock.—Lieutenant King arrives at Port Jackfon.—Finds the country greatly improved.—Manners and cufloms of the natives.—Vocabulary of the language, - - « ogx CHAPTER XVL Lieutenant King leaves Port Jackfon.—Meets with a dangerous Jhoal.— Difcovers Tench's-Ifland.—Short defription of the inhabitants.— Prince William-Henry s Ifland defcribed.—Touch at Kercolang.— Refrejh meats Refrefitments procured there.—Defcription of the inhabitants, their chat bing and utenfls.—Pafs through the Straits of Salayer.—Error on Dunn's chart found out.—Arrival at Batavia.—Interview with the governor',—llatavia defcribed.—Situation and extent.—Manners and cufioms of the inhabitants.—Government and police.—Annual exports.—Onrujl defcribed.—Departure from Batavia.—Mortality amongjl the jailors.—Arrival at the Ife of France.—Short account of that place.—Productions, &c,—Leave the Ijle of France,—Pafs St. Helena and Afcenjion.—Arrival in the Englijl: Channel, 415 CHAPTER XVII. The Lady Juliana tranfport arrives at Port Jackfon.—Lofs of the Guardian.—A fettlement trade at Sydney-Cove.—A fate of the fettiements at Sydney~Cove and Poj'e-Hill.—A general return of male convicts, with their employments, - 449 CHAPTER XVIII. An excurfon into the country.—An interview with the natives.—Governor Phillip wounded with a fpear.—A fecond interview with the natives.—i ccurrences on that occajion.—Five convicts efect their efcape in a boat. —The fettlement viflted by the natives.—Their cujloms. —Arrival of the Supply jrom Batavia, - - - - 458 CHAPTER XIX. Fruits in feafon defcribed.—The manners oj' the natives__Dijbutes with them.—Arrival of a vefel jrom Batavia, - - - - 478 5 C HAP- CHAPTER XX. Page The depredations of the natives.—Bannelong's behaviour__The Supply fails for Norfolk-Ifland.—The quantity of provifions brought in the Waakfamheydfrom Batavia.—The appearance of a prodigious number of bats.—The return of Bannelong.—The manners of the natives further defcribed, - - - - - - - 498 CHAPTER XXL An excurfon into the country.—Occurrences on the journey.—Surpr/fng dexterity of the natives in climbing trees.—Their fuperjlition.—Their method of curing wounds.—Their language.—Their maimers and difpoftion, - - - - - - - - 512 CHAPTER XXII. A fecond excurfon into the country.—The frf grants of land to fit tiers. A barter with the natives efablifhed.~The arrival feveral veffels from England.—-A new harbour difcovered.—The names of the firft fet tiers, - -- -- -- -- 530 CHAPTER XXIIL Arrival of the Gorgon, and feveral trarfports at Port Jackfon.—The number of convicts brought out in thefe veffels.—A whale-ffljery eflablifhed on the Coafl of New South Wales, - - - CHAPTER XXIV. The Supply leaves Port Jackfon.—Receives fome damage in a form.— Doubles Cape Horn.—Paffes Statens land.—Anchors at Rio Janeiro. —Refrejhments procured.—Departure from Rio Janeiro.—Proceeds towards England.—Arrives off the Lizard.—Particulars rfpetling Norfolk-Ifland. - - - - - - - - 568 A VOYAGE What is to be seen ot'tfie (on n fry in hhir dire,fiott th/vuah t/ie interyals et'the Carmarthen Mountains, appearsto'60 eauetir sinudart,> n■hatfiraftieadt' ./fs,rihed A'the.Couth IIest. In tt.nellm.t t.the. \.'il .I'll It ,•/•' IVuSpeCt Hill the ,h.itaiiees, were .dlaetualh measured,bvf Pa,*.:»■ 1'/ii tneh wereatfimed \\U*<' t.!<*ur 6'eoaraphi,-a/mile and direetians were ,iseertained h\ means ot'a pretty «///y/,/t Hie 11 ;< Hrflra \\\ ai e , en .iteep.roehv.aml 01 'dun.alt aeees?,till within fhe dirfanee ,t'ahoiit to er II mile.? <•/" Kirliinoiiit Hill. ( \lliMi I M T111:M X TA IWS ladle Hill 77n.f Hillappt'ati? < / "mueh < a.eier itnvnt than Round Hill, art* rn w met to tin ■ h\>f, w 'it Ron nil Hill Ot'tiiis Hill th, don/nordesired that the summit nuaht he attained it7* •sable, hut en arriruia at the Western bn<* el it ,1 nu/./ed (euidry.betneen it and Round Hill ap/teared Cn our first meetma with the/ther it,tppeare,i teheabout t('i> teet wi.te tit? toffyiu Cindy the.r/reoitt nanana about a mile an hour towar.ts, \ ' <■',•};. the opj>o?ilr hanAvm steep Ku hmoiul The ("euiitr?between Mount Twifsand Hound Hill appealedneteasv et'aeeexc ^ [^D?ert"d by.1 .•■Utah /'r.,yr, ./ Ii. •I4.0, .tX-.-t. Ii ./ii m.r.I.Ml <"✓«» .r,Ytlt>n i"f di? i?ia,tr\ on the lij^ot 'IW JJ/hj ,uidbythe .ipp?ateii?* .f'th? hIioI? Country from the. I 7/ roundbv the .>'.> 7. itiipprar.? nearh die sant?. J/l thuteiintrv Mt tar a? fhe ne cm nmh from very hiahMills appeacr rerrMontitainett. .iiid ?. 1 ?r. ,1 with MC These Jiidaes and tallies seem for the £ most part to run rhmi. \'to ,C in eaeh lalley there i.r aenetiith a .em.dlrmi 11 ,j. 1 VsIt lit, r ah.' a toot wide.in some tfa,es rem tin a l''it,l? th t'??t wide. Thrhtaht ,i'tl,? to/e/'f/t, Hdls,ibe\e thelulliesmay b?,it,1 ioah auess, tmm lPOtF* f\ 3t*t1 feet /'erpendi, ular } - There l? mis, >n A ■ b?l, •/1 • ■ th.it.1,\•nsi.tembl? /fit ■/ run.? 71.\ 7/7*1 ■ m Hits direehon. andperhaps tall? into the.//y ft//,////// At/f/t>//t /At /'t.j/ ///t//t( tt//s //ttf/1 f///t/ ' ~C/ Tw/'/j >fi///? v //.ii // A,/ (\,/ //: ( //t//t// /;///. Hii.e t'ountry. 11 hen 1 ieuedtn in the fouth Headappears yen1 JteeAi f dl i*amp\ Gmmtry Th t: ^ .1u.in.rt ■/}'? (oiuitrx is 1.vi [ T\ It a,',/,./ A Lake at'niudjh Hater v^ ahoutj, /eettn./e.apparwdfedlxt1 In floed'it rises target. The apposite IhihA' rt>\:? beaufrtuttr t, > the htahf, t 'ah, nttjt' feet. \ fin'tfia/dit, al Mi/t\e. ■i ' S m 7 9 Endtiojt Miles, ," * h 7 n is & / Yt i ■//. f'/ m ds of 'ft 1 <■ "t „/: ;> i" 1 ' ;i j ; (■>" 7 ft ,<» 'it> t -i ,i j I S - I • 10 mt—har-liml torn «jm Hani—bri—Iwh l»IMi_J-^_Hmk- j Lotiaititd, .'/.'>' .'i-l-Jo" *outli ll,./d / 13 !! \ 'V,,o/y. 'Ill . land Various, h't In, MM* part? prettetiood, f," in ofh,-]:? indittetrnt. / { I -1 i 'ft'. tit, • d, //-./ lines, slten the tnn A: r in 11 h/e/i metoimtrrwiis tnammd in ijb\/- 7'ht.e(,''untir for LI or l.~> nulestivmdie din. a/yearr to St\ffe:Ay. K ' x\dm . >'and\ (mhhIWater 'J. Here the Land in mam1 ifaetsiijjvr tii'od ........_____ Auaust-i- rhriotmtn between ^'''^K-^^ai/ill **MtaY?tii dot.j. ■VrusiH^X} ROSC UillS_-"•JJ.... ........ludeudl fly Afountn ot'teppieis This pari01th, ■ Tountr\ arfears the same ar abovt 2 I ~ • m v B o ■ o % t_ / Tre/h Jtoodland I / / /l/illrand I / JYenev I / land A Tolerahle^ittod (. 'n,t fiood/Zand Z,\ •'' /Xiimwltntr '• .'A \\Jua'tj! .__'J.andr.ed* •» h'teli^fttift? Here the Country appear:? Mi'imhii/n'us , fa wateri^osteth.h.aht.•/ /////^ <* fi,^lar.lea\ maKe,,LrKe. . . ~ ??t'Lutdrimtapnitth Latitude .0 .H'O'ouf/t I., >nnitude . WJEaft v HartAir Poiiita'olaiider wanipy /.an? ,> 1 11 o aaesp-----~~ frv9AV d Auaustj} Pyramid Mil I appears mere level ten ardrfhe, i",mt/i Hist Hetiah Uotmtaineus tbtwtiy til; that in the wqyte Carmarthen J/eiattair^r J'n/'/i.,/,i,t.'vv'-'"'//?;?7„,|(,|lu Stodau, /W//A. VOYAGE T O NEW SOUTH WALES* CHAPTER I. The flips defined for Botany-Bay rendezvous at the Mother-Bank,—Leave that placet and proceed on the voyage.—The convicts on hoard one of the tranfports attempt an in fur reel ion,—Are timely difcovered\ and the ringleaders pimified.—Arrival at Santa Cruz,—Tranfactions there.—Attempt of a convict to efcape.—Defcription of Laguna, and the adjacent country. Departure from Santa Cruz.—Pafs Cape Frio.—Arrive at Rio Janeiro. Tranfaclions there.—City of St. SebajVum defcribed.—Table of IVinds, Weathert etc. TT T being the intention of government to remove the inconvenience, chap, t, * which this country fuftered, from the goals being fo exceedingly '~" *~~ crouded with criminals, who had been by the laws condemned to tranfportation, the eaft coafl of New Holland was the place determined upon to form a fettlement for this falutary purpol\\ The eaft coaft of Kew Holland is that country, which was difcovered and explored by B Captain ^^J* Captain James Cook, in his firft voyage round the world, and by him called New South Wales. Botany Bay, the only place he entered with the (hip, which could be called a harbour, having been mentioned in the narrative of that voyage, as a convenient place for a fettlement, was fixed upon by government for the intended deiign. Ortobcraj, On the 2Cth of October, 17S6, his Majefty's fhip Sirius, lying in the dock at Deptford, v.:s commiinoned, and the command given to Arthur Phillip, Efq; the Supply armed tender was alio put in commiilion, and Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball was appointed to command her. The Sirius was a (hip of about 540 tons burthen, exceedingly well calculated for fuch a fervice ; (he mounted 20 guns, and had a fpar deck over them, was of a round full built, and was all together a very capacious and convenient veilel. The Supply armed tender was a brig, and was one of the vefTcls which were employed in carrying naval flores from one of his Majefty's dock-yards to another j fhe was a very firm ftrong little verTel* very flat floored, and roomy, mounted eight guns, and had a deep waift, which I feared would be found a very great, if not a dangerous inconvenience in fo low a vefTel on fo long a voyage. The Sinus's compliment was. i6g men ; that of the Supply, 55 men. Thefe two fhips were intended, after having performed the ftrvice of efcorting the convidls to the place of their deftination, to remain in the country to be employed as the governor might find neceflary for the public fcrvice, until they mould be relieved by other fhips from England. I had fome reafon, during the equipment of thofe mips, to think I might be employed upon this fervice, in fome way or other; and as Captain Phillip was appointed governor of the new fettlement, and of courfa courfe had much bufinefs to tranfact in London, I frequently vifitcd the chap. i. Sirius, and frequently received his directions in any thing that related to 1786. the fitting her; flic was out of the dock and the rigging in hand when I firft went on board, On the 9th of December, the ihip b.ing ready December^ to fill down the river, we flipped the moorings and failed down to Long-Reach, where we took in the guns and ordnance flores. On the 15th, I was informed by a letter from Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the 151K. Admiralty, that there was a commiflion figned for me in that office, and defiling I would come to town and take it up. The nature of the fervice upon which the Sirius might be employed in thofe feas to which flic was bound, having been confidered, it was judged necefiary that an officer, bearing a certain rank, fliould command that fhip in the abfence of Captain Phillip, whofe prefence, it was to be fuppofed, would be requifite at all times wherever the feat of government in that country might be fixed. In confequence of Mr. Stephens's letter, I repaired to the Admiralty, and received a commiilion, appointing me Second Captain of his Majefty's fliip Sirius, with the rank of Poft Captain, and with power to command her in the abfence of" her principal Captain; fubject nevcrthclefs to his controul, and to fuch orders and. directions for my proceedings as he might fee occafion to give me, for the gojil of the fervice. This appointment of a Second Captain, to a private fiup, being the firft inftance in our fervice, it could not, confiftent with the efta-bliihed regulations of the navy, take place, but by the authority of the King's order in council: an order from his Majcfty in council, authorizing the Lords of the Admiralty to make fuch appointment, was therefore given. On the 30th of January, 1787, two transports, one having male, the January 50, i "Hi other female convicts on board, dropt down to Long-Reach, but they B 2 having CHAP. T. having bufinefs to tranfact with the owners of the (hips, relative to thel^ fhips companies, were permitted to proceed as low as Gravefend, where the Sirius joined them the next day, and proceeded immediately to the Nore, where we anchored the lame day, and were joined by his Majefty's February 4, armed tender Supply: on the 4th of February, we anchored in the Downs, and were detained there by bad weather and contrary winds, until the lcjih, 19th, when, we put to fea in company with the Supply and tranfports, 21b, and arrived on the Mother-Bank on the 21ft : at this anchorage, all the transports and ftore-fhips were directed to rendezvous; the latter were already arrived, and, while wc lay here, the other transports joined us from the wefhvard*. Mayo, On the 9th of May, Captain Phillip arrived in Portfmouth, and the next day came on board, and iflued the fignals and other iiecelTary order* to Lieutenant John Shortland, the agent for tranfports, to be delivered, to the mailers of the different fhips.. ijth> On Sunday the 13th, we failed from the Mother-Bank in company with the Supply armed tender, fix tranfports, having on board 6co male,* and 200 female convicts, and three ftore.-fhips, carrying provifions and various other fibres : on board the fhips carrying convicts, were em-barked 160 marines, with their proper officers.; Major Robert.Rofs was commandant of the battalion, and appointed lieutenant-governor of the new fettlement j a furgcon and three afTiftants were alio embarked in ths tranfports, with medicines and necefiaries for the people under theic care. The wind being eailerly, we ran out at the Needles, and were accompanied by his Majefty's fliip Hyena, Captain De Couriev, who had received orders from the Admiralty to fee us 100 leagues to the weft ward. We had light breezes with fair and plcaiant weather dowiv the channel, but had the mortification to find that two of our tranfports CHAP, retailed exceedingly bad ; one of which, the Hyena towed two or three 1-" * ■'O * * 1787. days. On the i 5th, at fun-fet, the Start Point bore north-call; half eaft May 15th, by comp«fs, diftant i"-ven or eight leagues : at noon on this day (which finilhcs the nautical and begins the aftronomical day) the longitude, by account, was 50. 01'. weft of the meridian of Greenwich, and by a timepiece made by Mr. Kendal, with which the Board of Longitude had fupplied us, it was 4". 59'. weft; we had a variety of weather from this time till the 21ft. when being in latitude 47*. 52'. north, and longitude 12°. 14'. weft, Captain Phillip put his difpatches 011 board the Hyena 5 me fainted us with three cheers, and we parted company ; tta wind was now, and had been for fome days before, in the South-weft quarter, with hazy weather, our progrefs to the fouthward was therefore but flow ; much attention was required on our part to the rate of failing of the different tranfports, in order to prevent feparation. At this time a report was made from one of the tranfports, both by the commanding-marine-officer on board, and the mafter of the fhip, that a difcovery had been made of an intended infurredtion amongft the convicts in that fhip; in which, if they had fucceeded, they were to have quitted the fleet in the night, and afterwards to have made fuch ufc of the fhip, as they fhould,, upon farther consideration of the matter, determine amongft themfelves. Captain Phillip had very humanely, a few days previous to this fcherae, directed that the irons with which moft of the male convicts had hitherto been confined, Should be taken off them generally, that they might have, it more in their power to ftrip their deaths off at night when they went to reft, be alfo more at their eafe during the day, and have the farther advantage cf being able to wafh and keep themfelves clean ; this indulgence had no doubt left it more in the power of thofe who might be difpofed to exert their ingenuity, in fo daring an attempt, to carry thei? & plar; cn\P. I, plan into execution with a greater probability of fuccefs ; but I am V .1. 1 _ t ^ thoroughly convinced, that fo ftrict an attention to duty was paid by the whole of the marines employed on this fervice, that fuch an attempt would have terminated in the dell ruction of thofe who appeared moll active and forward in it. Two of the principals were brought on board the Sirius, leverely punimed, and fent on board another tranfport, properly fecured in heavy irons. May 2^, On the 23d, the wind inclined to the north-weft, and, after heavy rain, fettled in that quarter; by the favour of this change we proceeded to the fouthward, at the rate of between 70 and 100 miles in 24 hours. On the 26th, the wind Shifted to the northward, and from that to the north-eaft; our latitude at this time was 42°. 10'. north, and the longitude ii°. 36'. weft j variation of the compafs, 20". 19'. weft. 39th, On the 29th in the evening, (as we intended making the iflands of Porto Sancto and Madeira) being but a little dill a nee from the former, and the weather being hazy, we fhortencd tail, to prevent the convoy from falling fuddenly in with the land in the night: at day-light the next morning, we faw the Deferters off Madeira, bearing weft-fouth-weft, five leagues diftant ; we had pafled the ifland of Porto Sanclo in the night, having fteered to pafs eight or nine leagues to the call ward of it; we found the fhip fet this laft 24 hours 12 miles to the fouthward of the log. At noon the fouth-eafternmoft Dcferter bore by compafs north 170. weft, by which we made its latitude 32% 29'. north, and its longitude by the time-keeper i6\ jS'. weft of Greenwich j the variation of the compafs was here 170. co' weft : from hence, with a light breeze from the northward, we fteered fouth half weft, by compafs, and at five June i, P.M. on the iftof June, we made the Salvages; which was rather fooner fooner than we expected, by the diltance we had run from the Defcrters CH off Madeira, and the latitude obferved the preceding neon, by which V " we judged ourfelves not lefs than 17 leagues from them. At midnight we were exactly in their parallel, and lav/ them very distinctly by the li >ht of the moon, which was very clear ; their latitude, deduced from the preceding, as well as following meridian obfervations, is 30". 12. north, which is 12 miles to the northward of what they are generally placed, either in tables or charts; their longitude, by our time-keeper, is 15% 53'- weft. I had never feen thefe rocks before, and always under-ftood them to be fmall inconiiderable fpots, but the largeft is lb high as to be feen at the diftance of feven or eight leagues, and appears to be-about a mile and a half in length, from north-welt to fouth-eaft; there are a few fcattered rocks appear above water, to the wefhvard; and J have been told, that a reef of con tide rable extent ftretches out from them to the weftward. From the time of our pafiing thefe rocks until the evening of the 3d, we had very light airs and variable, but moftly from the fouth-we It quarter, and every day found we were affected by a foutherly current of 10 or 12 miles in 24 hours. The wind now Sprung up from the northward, and we fleered for the iiland of Tencriffe, directing our courfe by the longitude determined from the time-keeper,, the account being 1°, 04'. to the wcttward of it, and our lunar obfervations within three miles of it: at day-light in the morning we law the iiland of TenerifTe, and at neon Point de Nagara, or north-eaft point, bore fouth-weft by fouth, diftant five leagues ; fome of the convoy beina-considerably aftern we brought to, and in the afternoon, there being a frelh of wind from the north-eaft, we bore away and made the fignal for the convoy to make all the fail pofhble, in order, as we were Grangers to San eta Cruz road, that we might five day-light to the anchorage, which we effected, and had the whole convoy in before dark; 1 . ftft chap. I. at half pail fix in the evening we anchored in 15 fathoms water, loft ground, being a mixture of fand and black mud : we moored with the .bower anchors, and had the church of St. Francifco fouth 73". 00'. well, the eailernmoil point in fight, called Point Roquet, (from a fmall rock which lies a little detached from it) north 78 '. 00'. eaft, and a fort to the South-well of the town, fouth 45". 00', well, diitant front the nearell Shore about two and a half cables length. The ground all over this bay is faid to be foul ; we therefore buoyed up our cables, but had no reafon, upon examining them afterwards, to believe there was any foul ground where we lay. The next morning, Captain Phillip fent an officer lo wait on the governor with the ufual information of whom we were, and our bufinefs at that ifland; hut, previous to our anchoring, the mailer attendant, and fome other officers, were on board the Sirius for this -very purpofe % a ceremony which I believe is feldoni neglected. When the officer returned, he brought a very polite reply from the governor, fignifying his Sincere wiflies that the ifland might be capable of Supplying lis with fuch articles as we were in want of, and his afiurances that every refrefhment the place afforded we Should certainly have. Captain Phillip then waited on the governor, accompanied by Major Rofs, myfelf, and feveral other officers ; we were moil politely received by him, and he repeated his hope that TenerilTe might afford every refreshment which we had oceanon for. Two days after this vifit, the governor, who was then the Marquis Branceforte, and captain-general of the whole of the Canary Iflands, notwith (landing he had the day before returned Captain Phillip's vifit by an officer, came on board himfelf, attended by feveral officers. He remained about an hour on board, and a iked many one it ions refpecting the extent pf our voyage, and Situation of the place where we were going to fettle, all all of which we explained to him by a general chart of the world. A ch day or two after this vifit. Captain Phillip received an invitation to dine v with him, and to bring as many el the principal officers as could be Spared from the fhips : we waited on him in a party about twelve, and were very hofpitably and politely entertained; in fhort, on the whole, I never met with fo polite and fo pleafant a man in any foreign port I have ever viiited. During the time we lay in this road, the fhips companies, the rr/irines, and convicts, were every day fupplied with frcfh provifions, of which there appeared to be great abundance on the iiland : vegetables and fruit were at this time fcarce; potatoes, onions, and pumpkins only were to be had, and thofe but in fmall quantities. It was Captain Phillip's intention, when we arrived here, to have remained only three or four days, but we found that the watering of the fhips was a bufinefs which could not be completed in fo fhort a time. During our ftay, the watering the fhips was our principal coniideration, and it was often unavoidable to be employed in this neeeflary bufinefs on board the tranfports after dark ; the watering-place being only contrived to load two boats at a time. A convict one evening, while every body was employed in clearing a boat ef water, contrived to flip into a fmall boat, and dropt away from the fhip unperceived ; when he got to fome confiderable diftance off, he then exerted himfelf at his oars, and got on board a foreign Eaft-India fnip, which was lying here, and offered himfelf as a Seaman, but was refufed ; finding himfelf difappointed in his hope of getting off in that fhip, he judged it neceflurv, knowing that he would very foon be milled, and fearch made after him, to quit that fhip; he landed to the we it ward of the town, but on a place where there was a good deal of furf, and where the rocks behind .him were inacceffibk. the officer of marines on C board io A V 0 Y AGE T 0 CHAP. 1. board that traufport, having ordered the convicts to be muftered as ufual at letting the watch, when they were always put below, found this man was milling, and immediate information of it fent to Captain Phillip ; who next morning fent an officer from the Sirius to the governor, re-queiting his afiiftance in recovering the deferter ; orders were immediately given by the governor for that purpole ; in the morning early, boats were difpatched from the fliips to row along th ore to the weftward, to endeavour to recover the boat he had taken away, and a little to the weftward of the town, they difcovered the boat beating on the rocks; and rowing in to pick her up, they difcovered the fellow concealing himfelf in the cliff of a rock, not having been able to get up the precipice : the officer prclented a mulket at him, and threatened if he did not immediately come down and get into the boat he would fhoot him; the fellow complied, rather than run the hazard of being fhot, and was taken on board, punilhed, and put in irons until we got to fea, when he was liberated in the fame manner as the reft. Before we were ready to put to fea, a party of us had determined to make a fhort excurfion into the country, where we had no doubt of rinding its afpect more inviting than the profpect from the/hips: lor this purpofe, we fet out one morning very early, accompanied by two Britifh gentlemen, who were merchants reiident here, (rVlr, Little and Mr. Arm-ftrong,) and who had (hewn us upon every occaiion much civility and attention : thofe gentlemen had previoully provided horfes, mules, pro-virions, &c. We directed our journey to the city of Laguna, which was, and is Hill called the capital of the iiland; it is laid to be but three or four miles from Santa Cruz; but, whether from the badnefs of the road, (which is certainly the worft I ever faw in any country,) or the flownefs of cur progrefs from that caufe, I thought it not lefs than twice 1787. twice that diftance. When we arrived at Laguna, we walked through chap, l many of the ftrects, which are very regular, and crois each other at ^~ right angles; the buildings in general are good, and fome of the flreets are wider than you generally fee them in any of the Spanifh or Portuguefe towns: there are two parifh churches, which have fhort fquare fleeples, but they appear above all the other buildings ; there are alfo two nunneries, and three or four convents, which are built in a quadrangular form, and have good gardens. In the middle of the town is a conduit, which fupplies the inhabitants with water. This city ftands on a plain of confxdcrable extent, over part of which we rode, until we came to the foot of the hill from whence the town is fupplied with water. Wc afcended the mountain, and traced the ftream to its fountain-head, where we found it iffuing from cavities in feveral parts of the hill, and was conveyed down the declivity in done-troughs, and received on the plain by troughs of wood, Supported about feven or eight feet above the ground by props; through this aqueduct, the water is carried to the center of the city, over a plain, from a diftance of four or rive miles. The plain on which Laguna ftands, is pleafant and fertile ; it was now the height of their harveft, and many people were employed in cutting down the corn, with which this plain feemed to be well planted ; there were alfo many pleafant gardens here, and the foil in general appeared rich. The plain is furrounded by very high mountains, down the fides of which in the rainy feafon, (for their rains are periodical,) vaft torrents of water run, from which caufe, I apprehend, its 1111-healthineis muft proceed ; for I was told, when remarking how thinly the town of Laguna appeared to be inhabited, that very few, who had it in their power to choofe their place of refidence, would continue in Laguna. The governor has a palace here, but generally rcfides at Santa C 2 <-'ruz ; CHAP, T. Cruz5 and this city, once the retidence of perfons in great authority, is now quite defer ted by people of any diftinelion. 1 faw nothing of the j *» 8 7 • lake from which it derives its name, but was given to underitand that it was now a very inconfiderable piece of water ; probably the accounts given of there having been a large lake here, may have originated from the plain being quite a fwamp during the fall of the heavy rains. We returned to Santa Cruz the fame evening, very much pleafed with our excurfion : I regretted much, that the time propofed for fettling our bufinefs here, would not admit of a vifit to the Peak, a mountain fo much Spoken of by all who have v ill ted this iiland, for its wonderful height. The bay of Santa Cruz is defended by many fmall batteries of four or five guns each, which are placed at certain distances from each other, round the bay, and elofe to the water-fide, which expoSes them much to the annoyance of {hips; but their principal tort is near the landing place, and is a Strong work, but the water being deep very near in, they are all expofed to the attack of fhips : on the whole, it is faid, they mount near one hundred pieces of cannon. The town of Santa Cruz is very irregularly built; the principal Street is broad, and has more the appearance of a fquare than a Street ; the governor's houfe ftands at the upper end j it is but a mean looking building, and has more the appearance of a country inn, than the palace of a governor : at the lower end of the Street there is a Square monument, commemorating the appearance of Notre Dame to the Guanches, the original inhabitants of the iiland. The out-Skirts of the town have more the appearance of a place deferted and in ruins, than a place of trade, for many of the houies there are either left half built, or have fallen N EW BOUT IT W ALES. tj fallen to decay from fume other caufe, and the (lone walls, which were CHAP, L their principal fcncei, are broken down and in ruins, 1787. On the ninth of June, in the afternoon, the tranfports having com-June 9, plcted their watering, the fignal was made from the Sirius for every perfon of our fleet to repair immediately on board their refpeclive mips, and on the 10th, in the morning, we put to fea with a light air of wind from, the land. The ifland of TcnerirTe is fi mated in latitude as obferved in the road, 280 29' f north, and longitude, determined by the time-keeper, 16° 181 00'' weft. We fteered to the fouth-weft until we were near the meridian of the iiland of Sal, the northernmost of the Cape De Verde Iflands, and then fhaped our courfe fo as to fall in a little to the eaft ward of it. At 10 in the evening of the 13th, being at no great diftance from the iiland, isih, we made the fignal for the convoy to Shorten fail, the diftance not being Sufficient to admit of our carrying fail all night; at nine the next morning we Saw the ifland bearing north-weft by north, diftant four leagues: I make the latitude of the north end 16° 48' north, and its longitude, determined by the time-keeper, is 23" o~! weft, the fouth end is in latitude i(>' 39/ north. We fteered from abreaft the center of this ifland, fouth half eaft by com p.if:', which carried us about three or four miles wide of the reef, which extends from the north-eaft part of Bonavifta, and runs from the more in a fouth-eaft direction three or four miles: it was about two o'clock in the afternoon when we made the ifland of Bonavifta, So that we had a very good opportunity of feeing the reef, from which I obferve Captain Cook lays, in one f is ■HHfP voyages,. 14 AVOYAGETO ^HAF- !; voyages, he was in great danger, and that it lies off the fouth-caft part B - _ of the iiland ; which is certainly a mi flake, for we ran down the eaft fide of the iiland, at the diftance of three miles from the reef, and I make its latitude and longitude as follows:- "Latitude of the north end - 16" 13' north. • _ ,„ Longitude by time-keeper - 220 ci'weft. Iiland of Bonavifta < T . , r . r . , ' ■ , Latitude of the fouth end - 160 00' north, ..Variation of the compafs - n° 19' weft. At twelve o'clock at night, having an intention of anchoring in Port Praya Bay, in the ifland of Saint Jago, we made the fignal and brought-to till day-light; we then made fail, the weather very hazy, which is generally the cafe among thefe iflands: we ran clofe round the fouth end of the ifle of May, and ftretched over for the fouth end of Saint jago; but when we opened Port Praya Bay, we were fuddenly taken aback with the wind from the north-we ft, and every fhip appeared to have the wind in a different direclion. In this fituation it was thought that any attempt to gain the anchorage under fuch unfavourable cir-cumftanccs might be attended with the danger of fome of the fhips getting on board each other; it was therefore determined to give up the intention, and the fignal was made for that purpefe. The object for which we endeavoured to get into this bay, was, a fupply of frefli vegetables for the fhips companies and convicts, an article with which we had been but fcantily provided at TenerirTe. Port Praya Bay, on the ifland of Saint Jago, is Situated in latitude 140 54' north, and June 2c.longitude 230 37' weft. This was about noon of the 20th of June, and we took our leave of thefe iflands, and fteered to the fouthward, intending to crofs the equator, if potTible, two or three degrees to the eaft ward eaftward of the meridian of Saint Jago. We had a frefh gale from the CHAP. J. north-eaft until we were in the latitude of io° ?o' north ; the north-eaft trade now became faint and variable, and in 9'' 30' north we had frequent calms, with dark cloudy weather, and heavy mowers of rain j fqualls were feen now rifing from every part of the horizon, and appeared to threaten much wind, but they feldom contained any thing but torrents of rain ; the breezes, which were very light, and were generally from the fouth ward, very much retarded our progrefs towards the line. In latitude 8° 30' north, the wind fixed in the fouth-weft quarter (rather an extraordinary circumftance in thefe latitudes) and blew a frefh gale, with which we flood to the eaftward; but as it was generally far foutherly, we were foon in longitude 18' 26' weft, by the time-piece, on which we had more reliance than on the dead reckoning, for here we found a current letting considerably ftrong to the eaftward j our lunar obfervations, which we never failed to make at every opportunity, con-ftantly confirmed the truth of the watch. Finding no profpecl: of a change of wind by continuing to ftand to the eaftward, we tacked in the above longitude, and latitude 6° 48' north, and flood to the weftward ; for the wind now appeared fixed between fouth-we ft and fouth, a fteady gale with a large fea from the fouthward -} many of the convoy failed fo heavy, and were fo leewardly, that to gain ground thus cir-cumftanced was impolTible $ we had therefore only to hope, that by (landing off to a greater diftance from the coaft of Africa, we might find the wind incline to the eaftward of fouth : we, therefore, kept working in this manner for twelve days, in the courfe of which time our dead reckonings were four degrees to the weftward of the truth, occasioned by the the Strong eaflerly currents ; in the latitude of 4° 3c/ north, and longitude, by the time-keeper, 19' 40' weft, the wind began to incline to the fouth-ibuth-caft, which gave us fome reafon to hope 5 that 16 A V O Y A G E TO jr*iy* j ^iat fouth-eaft trade wind was at no great diftance. It continued wa-i787. vering between the fouth by eaft and fouth-eaft until we had got another degree to the fouthward, when It fettled at fouth-eaft a fteady breeze; but the cafterly current, which would now have been an advantage to us by keeping the tranfports to windward, had ceafed, and we found a ftrong wcilerly one running for feveral days, from 30 to 45 miles in 24 hours, by which our account was brought back to its original a0reement with the time-keeper and lunar obfervations. The greateft velocity of the wefterly current, was between latitude 3* 00' north and the line, and its direction appeared to have been nearly weft, for we never found our obfervations for the latitude materially affected by it; the fame was the cafe with the eafterly current, which may account for the fhips from the northward, bound to the coaft of Brazil, who may have no other way of determining their longitude but by account, fcarcely having been fenfible of any current ; fo very nearly does the wefterly fet, counteract, in the paiTage, that to the eaftward. July 14. On the 14th of July, in the evening, we crofTed the equator in longitude 26* 10' weft, and with 5' 00' of weft variation. The fouth-eaft trade wind now made us ample amends for the failure of the north-eaft, for it blew a frefh and fteady breeze from eaft-fouth-cart to eaft, which I believe is rather uncommon when the fun has fo great north declination : if the wind had not favoured us fo much, we mull have fallen in with the coift of Brazil, fir to the northward, which, with this convoy, would have been attended with much lofs of time, and fome degree of danger ; however, with this favourable flant, we carried all the fail poiTible, and were enabled to keep at a diftance from the coaft, but not fo far as to be able to make the iiland of Trinidadj, which it was Captain Phillip's intention to have done, had the wind permitted. We pafTcd its parallel 9 , 4? 3°' NEW SOUTH WA1ES. iy 4- 30' to the welt ward of it, and had for feveral days kept a 10,0k out chap. i. — v l.Ll for an ifland, which the Portuguefe call Afcencao, and is laid to lie be- l?8^ twecn Trinidada and the coaft of Brazil; but the cxiftence of which there is much reafon to doubt. We did not fee any thing until the 3d of Auguft, when we made Cape Frio j at 12 o'clock at night we Augudj. were right abreaft of it, and had it bearing north half weft five or fix miles; its longitude, by the time-keeper, is 41° 40' weft of the meridian of Greenwich*; and its latitude is 22° 58' fouth. This cape is an ifland diftant two or three miles from the main land j we had very light airs and variable weather between the Cape and Rio Janeiro, which is a diftance of 18 or 20 leagues j we never approached the fhore nearer than five or fix miles, at which diftance we had 30 fathoms water over a foft bottom, and at four leagues diftance had 42 and 43 fathoms, with the fame foft ground. On the 6th of Auguft, a light breeze from the fea carried us within &h» the iilands which lie off the harbour, where we anchored for the night, with the convoy, in 14 fathoms water, clear foft ground, the iiland Raz (a low flat ifland) bearing fouth by weft two miles, and Rodondo (a high round ifland) fouth-weft by fouth. The next morning an officer was fent to the town, to wait on the viceroy, and give him information who we were, and for what purpofe we had vifited that port: in the afternoon of the 7th, with a breeze from the fea, we weighed, and, with the whole convoy, failed into the harbour. As we paffed Fort Santa Cruz, we faluted with 13 guns, which was returned by an equal number from the fort j we anchored off the town in iyl fathoms water, * It will appear hereafter that we had not the true rate of the watch, and consequently that the above longitude is not correct. D over over a good foft bottom, and moored with beft bower to the fouth-eaft, and thefmali bower to the north-weft; Fort Santa Cruz fouth 360 00' eaft; the Sugar Loaf fouth, 70 oo/ eaft; and the Flag-Staff, on the Iiland Cobres, north 78* oo' weft, diftant from the town one mile and a half. In going into the harbour, there being very little wind, fome of our convoy were alongfide of each other, and were drifting in with the tide; at which the mailer of the port, who was on board the Sirius, expreffed much uncafineis; but he was told our feamen knew very well how to manage their fhips, and that there was no danger : the Portuguefe will not allow more than one of their mips in the narrows at a time. The fhips in general had been remarkably healthy; the whole number buried fince we left England was fixtecn, fix only of that number had died between Tencriffe and this place, which certainly is a very trying part of the voyage to people who have not been accuftomed to warm climates, and being fed wholly on fait provifions ; many of thofe whom we had loft iince we left Portsmouth, had been lingering under difeafes with which they were afllicled when they embarked; confe-quently little hope could be entertained of their recovery in fuch a fituation and under fuch circumftances. On our arrival here, there were but four out of the whole number in fevers, and a few others with various but trifling complaints; and between 20 and 30, in whom fymp-toms of the fcurvy had lately appeared, the feeds of which it was hoped and expected would be effectually eradicated before we left this place. Frefh provifions were immediately provided on our arrival, and ferved to the fhips companies, marines, and convicts; vegetables were alfo provided, of which they were to have a proportion ferved with the^r other provifions every day whilft we remained here oranges and other tropical fruits fruits were in vaft abundance at this time •> the convicts alfo had a pro- chap, i, portion of oranges with their other provifions, this fruit being in fueh great plenty, that the expence attending the purchafe of a few for each individual a day, was too inconfiderable to be noticed. Indeed, it was no uncommon thing to fee the country boats, as they pa fled the ihips^ throw in a fliower of oranges amongft the people, Wc had not been ten days in this harbour, before we found the convicts in every (hip much more healthy man when we left Spithead. Much pains had been taken by fome (who, from whatever caufe, were averfe to the expedition) to make the world believe that we were, whilft lying at the Mother-Bank, fo very lickly as to bury eight or ten every day; and that a malignant difeafe raged with great violence on board the tranfports: how far thofe reports were true, will beft appear by the returns which will no doubt be fent to England from this place. Among fuch a number of people confined in fmall (hips, to have no fick on board, was not to be expected ; but the reports fpread by fome induftrious perfons exceedingly exaggerated our numbers. I may, without a probability of being much miftaken, venture to fay, that there are few country towns in the ifland of Great-Britain, which contain 1500 inhabitants, (the number which the fhips employed on this fervice had on board) which have not frequently as many fick as we had, at the time it was given out we buried fuch numbers daily. At this place we met with every thing that was civil and polite ; a day or two after our arrival, the whole of the officers were introduced and paid their refpccts to the Vice-King, who feemed defirous of making the place as convenient and pleafant as pofiible, coniiftent with his in-llructions, relative to foreigners, from the court of Poitugal. It has D a ever jo A V O Y A G E T O chap. i. ever been a cuftom here, that when any foreign fhips are in this harbour, a guard boat rows confhntly night and day, and when any boat from 7 '* fuch foreign vcfiel goes on fhore, a foldier is put into the boat, and continues on board her during her flay on fhore : this euflom is intended to prevent fmuggling, a crime which is punifhed here with the utmofl feverity \ and when any foreign officer lands, an officer from the guard is ordered to attenrihim wherever he goes: this reflraint, which would « -itainly have been very ill rcliihed by us, however necefiary it might have been for our own convenience to have coin plied with it—was not even in the beginning offered, but every officer permitted to walk where he pleafed, except in the forts j a liberty never granted to ft rangers; nor • was any centinel ever placed in any of the King's -boats at landing, not even in thofe of the tranfports; an •extraordinary mark of civility and confidence, and of which every officer in our fleet was perfectly feniible. But when the mailers of the tranfports went on fhore, a non-com-miliioned officer from the guard attended them wherever they went, and their failors were attended by a private foldier. During our flay here, we were permitted to erecl a tent on the ifland Enchados, (a fmall iiland about a mile and a half farther up the harbour than where we lay with the Ihips,) for the purpoie of landing a fewr of the agronomical inftruments which were necenary for afcertaining the rate of the time-keeper; they were put under the charge and management of Lieutenant William Dawes, of the marines, a young gentleman very well qualified for fuch a bufinefs, and who promifes fair, if he purfae his ftudies, to make a refpeclable figure in the fcience of aftronomy. The The weather was rather unfavourable, during the time the internments chap. t. were on more for afcertaining the rate of the time-keeper, but as con- v ^ ' fhnt attention was paid, every opportunity that offered was made ufe of, and the watch was found to bs 2"-27. which is neat a fecond more than was its rate at Portfmouth. The 21ft of Auguft being the anniverfary of the Prince of Brazil's Auguft zt„ birth-day, at fun-rife in the morning we difplayed the flag of Portugal at the fore top-maft head/ and that of our own nation at the main and mizen : half an hour after ten, the Vice-King received compliments upon that occation; all the officers of our fleet which could be fpared from duty on board, landed, and in a body went to the palace to make their compliments upon this public day ; the viceroy upon this, as well as upon every other ©ccafion, fliewed us particular attention. We were the firft company admitted into the levee-room, then the clergy and military, alter which, the civilians and fome of the military promifcuouily. When we entered the room a fignal was made from the palace, and the fort began to fire. Orders had been left with the commanding officer on board the Sirius, to begin to filute after the fort had fired two guns, which was particularly attended to, and a falute of twenty-one guns was given. It is rather uncommon upon fuch occalions, for an Englifhfhip of war tu f.lute at fo early an hour, but certainly the greateft compliment which we could at fuch time pay them, was to obferve in this cafe the eufbm practifed by their own fhips. On Monday the 3d of September, the watering of the convoy, and September t,. every ether part of their refitting being compleatcd, the fignal was made from the Sirius for every perfon to repair immediately on board their rcfpcclive ihips, and at the fame time the fignal for unmooring was j . fhewn y CflAP. I. tlicwn; and on Tuefday morning, with a light breeze from the land, we weighed with the convoy. When the Sirius had got within about 17.87. , * half a mile of Fort Santa Cruz, that caftle faluted us with 21 Runs, which was anfwered by us with the fame number; a very high and uncommon compliment, and fuch I believe as is feldom paid to,any foreigner ; but was no doubt meant as a fuitable return to the attention paid by his Majefty's fhip to the birth-day of the Prince of Brazil. We carried wind enough out to run us clear without the iflands before night. The harbour of Rio de Janeiro may be known when you are off it, by a remarkable hill at its entrance, called Pao d'Afucar, from its re-femb lance to a loaf of fugar; but there is a hill to the fouth-eaft of the harbour, which is called by fome the Falfe Sugar-loaf; but which, as you view it from the eaftward, I think has more the appearance of a church, with a fhort fpire fteeple ; this hill points out the harbour to fhips at a diftance, much better than Pao d'Afucar. The land to the weftward of the harbour is high and broken, and is commonly fo covered with clouds, that you cannot difcover the true make of it. Right off the harbour lie feveral fmall iflands, all fteep to, or nearly fo ; a few rocks project a very fmall diftance from fome of them, but which cannot be con tide red dangerous, as no perfon poflelTed of common prudence would ever take a fhip fo near as they lye ; within thofe iflands (if you have not wind Xo carry your fhip into the harbour) you may anchor j the beft birth for getting under way with any wind, is to bring the ifland Raz (a low iiland) to bear fouth or fouth half weft one mile, in 14 or 15 fathoms water, foft bottom ; there is nothing in the way between this anchorage and the harbour ; you will obferve in the entrance a fmall iiland or rock, fortified, called Lage ; you fail about mid-channel between this ifland and Fort Santa Cruz, obferving that the tide of flood lets upon Santa Cruz point, ~J point, and the ebb upon the iiland: the foundings from the outer an- chap, l chorage decreafe from 14 fathoms, where we lay, regularly, till near . '7^7* abreaft of the Sugar-loaf, where it is fix and a half fathoms: from this depth you drop into 12, 14, and 16 fathoms. Run up, and anchor off the town in 17 or 18 fathoms, clear foft ground. City of St. Sebastian. Dfg. Mill. Set. Latitude - - - - - -22 54 13 fouth. Longitude, deduced from our time-keeper 42 44 00 weft of the meridian of Greenwich, and which agrees with that laid down in the new requifite tables, but which certainly are not correct. Longitude, determined by two aftronomers fent from Portugal for that and other purpofes 43 18 45 weft. Longitude, by an eclipfe of Jupiter's third fa-tellite, taken by Lieutenant Dawes, on the ifland Enehados • -Longitude, by a mean of feveral diftances of G and tj taken by me at the outer anchorage Ditto, by Lieutenant Bradley The tide flows here at full and change of the moon, north-eaft by north and lbuth-weft by fouth, and rifes between fix and feven feet. The harbour is very 'cxtenfive and commodious; there are many convenient bays in it, where a vaft many fhips may be laid up in perfect fecurity from any bad weather. The town is large, well built, and populous, but ill fituatcd for the health of its inhabitants: it ftands upon 43 J9 CO weft. 43 Ji r5 • weft. 43 33 00 weft. !4 A ,V O Y A G E TO CHAP. I. upon low ground, which was formerly fwampy, and is furroundcd with hills of immcnfe height, which entirely exclude the benefit of the re-1717, ■'. frething fea and land breezes j fo that in the iummer time, it is really fnffocating hot, and of courfe very unheakby. The ftreets, fome few of them, are pretty wide, the others in general rather narrow, and inertly interfecl each other at right-angles. The fquare, or parade, op-pofitc to which the boats land, is large, and the buildings round it are good, and on the fouth tide of this fquare (lands the viceroy's palace. The churches are very good buildings, and their decorations exceedingly rich, and they feem to have excellent organs in them; all thole which' I faw here, as well as at TcnerirTe, had what in a large church I conceive to be a confiderable improvement, and it is what I never have feen 'applied to any of our organs, even in the large ft churches in England ; each pipe of the organ has a tube which projecls from its lower part in a horizontal direction, and is wide at the outer end, like a trumpet: thefe tubes throw every note diftincTly into the church, and prevent, what I have frequently obferved, in many of our organs, fome of the tones being almoft loft in the body of the inftrument, I obfervod here, that the different mechanics carry on their bufinefs in diftincl: parts of the town, particular ftreets being fet apart for particular trades ; you find one ftreet filled with taylors, another with moc-makers, a third with carpenters, ccc. &c. As far as numerous forts and guns can be faid to give ftrength to any place, the city of Saint Sebaftian may be cpniidered as ftrong ; the ifland of Cobres, which overlooks and lies clofe to the town", has a ftrong work upon it, the eaft end of it is rather low, and there is good depth of water off it, fo that fhips of very large fize may come very near in, 2 and and there are many hills very near, which command the town and moil CHAP. I of the works which defend it. 1787. The annual exports from Rio de Janeiro are, 3,200 arobes of gold, which are fent to Portugal, and of which the King has a tenth part; 6,oco cafes of fugar, each weighing 40 arobes; 5,000 cafes of rice, and 1,500 calks of rum, each cafk containing eight almudas *. Before we left this port, we took on board the following feeds and plants, viz. Coffee plant and feed, cocoa-feed, jalap, ipecacuhana, tamarind, banana, orange, lime, and lemon-trees, guava feed, prickly pear, with the cochineal in feed upon it, pomrofe, grape, tobacco, and rice for feed. * An arobc is thirty-two pounds j an almuda, four gallons and a half. E TABLE A TABLE of the Ifland of TenerirTe Ship Sirius. Winds and Weather, to Rio de Janeiro, Coall &c. Sec. in the PafTage from the of Brazil, on board His Majefty's Year, Month, and Day. 1707. j unt 10 ,5 t Longitud from meri- ian of Greenwich North « ' 28 16 Weft. O f 16 1.8 Winds, c 3 3 V. I 2 Barometer at Noon. Moon's A EC 11 16 12 27 34 16 13 26 24 17 14 25 10 18 20 19 16 21 2J 21 17 18 55 22 18 16 24 22 19 14 53 23 20 «3 29 23 11 11 5i 23 22 10 44 23 23 9 48 *3 24 9 02 22 25 8 3° 22 26 8 45 22 27 8 12 21 23 7 29 21 29 7 • 2/ 20 3° 7 19 19 Eaftcrly. Variable. S. E. to s. s. w. Variable. N. W. to N.N. E. North to N. E. N. E. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. N. E. N. E. Eaft. Eaft. N. E. by E N. E. N. by E. N. E. to North. N. N. E. Variable. N. E. Variable, Variable. Variable. Variable. s. w. South. South, s.w. 72 /11 73 72 73r 74 731 73i 751 7*1 8cj 80 82 8o| 79* 8ij 82 § 80 81 82 30 02 30 33 JO 00 07 01 30 i° 30 3° 3^ 00 1 o ii © 29 96 30 3=> 3° 3° 9 14 *4 4 JO 3 30 30 30 30 30 3° Day. 26 27 28 £9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 j3 14 IS 16 Weather, &c. &c. Fair. Light winds and hnzy. Clear, inclinable to calm. Moderate breezes and cloudy. Moderate and cloudy, with fmall A frefh breeze and cloudy, Frefh breeze and hazy. Frefh breezes and clear. I Half paft 10 A.M. lfleofSallfN.78000' I W. 4. leagues. Frefh breezes and ^ cloudy. [ Frefh breezes and hazy. South end of I St. Jago, W, by S. 4 or 5 miles. Moderate and hazy. Moderate breezes and hazy. Light breezes with lightning in the night. Light breezes and hazy, with ditto, f Ditto, with lightning in the night. A. M. I moderate and cloudy. Light airs, cloudy, and unfettlcd. Ditto, with frequent fqualls. P. M. ditto. A. M. light airs and fair. { Light airs, with rain, thunder, and light 1 ning. J Moderate and cloudy. Lightning in the 1 night. Moderate and cloudy. July *i car, Month, and Day. 1787. July 2 3 4 S 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 from meridian of Greenwich North. 6 4S Weft. 18 51 Winds, 11 |Barome|Nloon»v I ter at Noon e« 6 32 19 09 I 32; 19 41 6 171 19 46 5 541 »9 55 5 36 18 26 l5 16 *7 18 19 - 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 2& 29 3° 3i i6t 18 57 39 l9 34 56' 20 17 29 21 CO ' 22 33 00 2 20 24 00 13 i 18 25 C9 18 25 55 S. E. byE South, o 28 S. W. Weft. s. s. w. South. South, South, S. by E. s. s. w, South S. S. E. S. S. E. S. S. E. S. S. E. S. S. E. S. S. E. S. E. by S. S. S. E. S. E. 80I 24 49 18 °3 26 32 26 51 27 19 27 42 27 4i 8 03 9 08 10 03 11 51 "3 29 '5 c7 16 36 18 10 !9 37 20 42 21 55 571 27 4^ 28 oo 28 21 28 31 28 40 29 07 29 40 33 05 it 15 33 it 34 5® 36 04 E. S. E, E. S. E. E. by S. E. by S. Eaft E. by S. Eaft. Eaft E. by S. t. by S. i • S, E. S. E. Eaft. E. by S, Eaft. E. by S. E. S".E. E. S. E. E. S..E. S. E. E. S. E. E. S. E. Eaft. Eaft N. E. N. E.by 33 8oi 30 80M30 81 81 81 8l 80 30 30 30 30 80 30 79 00 79 30 6 oe o¥ 07 0 j 04 0 07 06 06 78 79 79 79 79 79 80 81 80 80 30 06 30 06 33 03 30 05 Day. 1? 18 10 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° 3? 3° 30 30 3° 07 c-6 07 07 08 79 3° 09 77 78 76 7 6 75 74 74 74 30 13 30 07 30 20 30 20 30 20 30 22 3° 24 30 26 3° 24 E % Weather, See, Squally with heavy rain-Moderate, but frequent fqualls with rain. Moderate and fair. Light airs and fair. Li^ht breezes and fair. Moderate and cloudy. Frcfh breezes and hazy. Moderate and hazy. Moderate and fair. Moderate and clear. Moderate and clear*. Fine moderate oderatc and cloudy. At 5 P. M. crofted the equator in 26 io' weft Longitude. A Moderate! 10 11 i 2 16 17 j8 breeze, and fair. Ditto. Moderate and clear. Moderate and cloudy. Moderate breezes and clear. Moderate breezes And clear. Light breezes and fair. Squally with light fhowers of rain. Moderate and cloudy. J P, M. moderate and fair. A, M. fquallv \ with rain, Frcfh breezes and fqually. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Ditto. Frefh breezes and fqually, with rain. P. M. ditto. A. M". frefh gaks and Lir. P. M. frcfh. gales, fair. Moderate and fair. Moderate and fair. A. M. moderate and Auguft Month, and 1787, Auguft 1 South. 22 41 2 3 23 23 04 Longinkie irom meridian of Greenwich Weft. 37 53 4° 3° 30 c6 Winds, N. E. byE N, N/E. N. N. E. N, by E. N. E. by N. N. by E. Variable. § ? 12 Barometer at N oon. Moon's Age Weather, &c. &c. ■ 74 75 19 jModerate and cloudy. 30 10 Cape Frio N. E I variable. 72 I30 26j 22 20 'Frefh breezes and fair. Entrance of Rio Janeiro N. W. by W. £ 42 25 I Variable. | 71 I30 a6| 23 by E. i E. 12 leagues. Li^ht breezes and |Light variable airs. W. 8 or 9 leagues. [Li^ht airs, frequent calms, and flying fogs, An ACCOUNT of Obfervations for the Variation of the Compafs made on board His Majefty's Ship Sirius, between England and the Cape of Good Hope, in 1787* Latitude in Lon Iron uf C gitudie i »meridian Variation by Latitude in 1 ,U1U< U L. . froin meridian Variation by Ireenwich Azimuth. Amplitude of Greenwich Azimuth. Amplitude 0 42 16 N. I I 50 w. 20 26W. 0 0 19 50 S. 31 * 44 W. 1 40 w. 40 10 12 00 20 °4 20 40 W. 20 58 33 °:i 4 40 E. 33 3i 15 40 18 06 22 02 34 2) 5 12 29 43 ,5 18 18 27 22 47 38 16 6 01 22 55 19 23 15 40 In the harbour of Rio Janeiro 6° 12' E. 18 '3 22 33 12 00 26 7 2 37 57 4 40 E. 40 15 5* 22 59 11 3° .P 38 31 33 2 12 j5 23 23 10 23 31 so 3* 2 20W. 11 35 23 16 10 40 33 24 22 52 % 30 w. 4 3o 43 7 40 33 54 3 io 7 40 1 04 25 12 5 50 35 ] 1 0 41 E. 12 08 00 00 26 10 5 3° 36 20 5 c5 16 40 16 2 > 1 44 s- 26 5» 5 09 36 52 8 1 r 16 40 16 18 3 07 ^7 19 5 06 36 06 . 10 10 '7 00 4 3» 27 44 5 00 34 43 16 38 *9 co 12 10 28 08 3 44 34 20 17 II 21 3° 18 33 P 15 0 oj E. CHAPTER C H A P T E R II, Anchor in Table-Bay.—Refrcfimcnts procured there.—Depart from the Cape of Good Hope.—Captain Phillip quits the Sirius, and proceeds on the voyage in the Supply.—The Sirius arrives in Botany-Bay.—Finds the Supply at anchor there.—Arrival of the Bujfole and Ajlrolabe.— Leave Botany-Bay, and anchor in Port Jackfon.—The Table of Winds, Weather, &c ITT 1 had light and variable winds for the two firft days after leav- chap. it. " * ing Rio de Janeiro, then it veered round to the north-eaft, and freshened up, and was fome times as far to the northward as north by €aft ; we fteered off eaft-fouth-eaft and fouth-eaft. In latitude %f 50' fouth, the weather became dark and cloudy, with much rain and lightning all round the horizon, which IhJfted the wind to the fouthward, and the weather cleared up. On the 19th, we faw feveral Pentada gept. 19 birds. On the 29th, having had thick hazy weather during the night, 2^t fome of the convoy had been inattentive to the eourfe, and were found at day-light coniiderably fcattcrcd and to leeward; we bore down and made the fignal for doling. Nothing worth relating happened this palTagc. On the r 2th of October, as we were expecting every hour to October 13, make the land, the weather being hazy, with a ftrong wefterly wind, at midnight we made the fignal and brought to; at day-light we bore away and made fail, and at fix o'clock faw the land, diftant 10 leagues; at > 3o AVOYAGETO CHAP. ii. at noon, the entrance of Table-Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, bore eaft three leagues. At the difiance of feven or ehrht Leagues from the 1787. ° too land, the Supply armed tender being ordered to wait for the fternmoft of the convoy, Lieutenant Ball took that opportunity of founding, and at the before-mentioned diftance had 115 fathoms, over a black fandy bottom i and at five leagues diftance he had 90 fathoms; fand with fmall ftones. The water appeared, at a much greater diftance, con-ftdcrably difcoloured, from which I think there is reafon to fuppofer that the foundings from this part of the coaft run farther off to the weftward. We wrere all this time in the parallel of 34/ fouth. On the October 14, 14th of October* at five in the evening, we anchored with all the convoy in Table-Bay, Cape of Good Hope, and at fun-rife the next morru ing we fainted the fort with 1 3 guns, which was an 1 we red by the fame n umber. By altitudes taken this morning for the time-keeper, it appeared that we had not had fulhcient time at Rio Janeiro for ascertaining the true rate of the watch's going, having determined what we have allowed this pailage, viz. 2"-33 from a very few obfervations, and thofe not to be relied on, the weather having been very unfavourable; for, by the difference of time between the meridian of Rio Janeiro and the cape, .both which places are well determined, the watch has loft at the rate of , 3//-i7> which we iliall hereafter allow to be the true rate ; and as a proof of that having been really its rate all along, by allowing it from the time of our leaving Portfmouth, until our arrival at Rio Janeiro, we fhall. have the longitude of that place 43" 33' 30" weft of the meridian of Greenwich, which is 45' 45" to the weftward of that* laid down in the Hew Requifite Tables, and which agrees very nearly with the obfervations made on the fcot* A> '787- As Table-Bay was the laft port at which we could touch for refrefh- chap, ii. merits during our voyage, fuch articles as we were in want of, both for prefent coniumption, and for (locking the intended fettlement, were applied for, in fuch quantities as we could find room for on board the different fhips. Eight or ten days elapfed before any anfwer could be obtained from the council, what iiceellaries and in what quantities they could fupply us with: this delay occalioned our palling more time here than was at firft intended or expected. A few days before we failed, having compleated fuch articles of provifions as we wanted, we embarked on board the Sirius fix cows with calf, two bulls, one of which was fix or feven months old, with a number of fhecp, goats, hogs, and poultry of different kinds ; on board one of the tranfports were put three mares, each having a colt of fix months old, and a young ftallion ; a quantity of live ftock was alfo put on board the ftore fhips ; fo that the whole on government account, I think, amounted nearly to one ftallion, three mares, three colts, fix cows, two bulls, forty-four flieep, four goats, and twenty-eight hogs. The officers on board the tranfports, who were to compote the garrifon, had each provided themfelvcs with fuch live ftock as they could find room for, not merely for the purpofe of living upon during the paflage, but with a view of flocking their little farms in the country to which we were going; every perfon in the fleet was with that view determined to live wholly on fait provifions, in order that as much live ftock as poflible might be landed on our arrival. November 12th, having completed all our bufinefs at the Cape, we Nor, 12, made preparations for our failing; and on the 13th, we weighed with 13th, the whole convoy, and flood out of the bay, 6 During ' 7 ; * CHAP, n. During the time we lay in this bay, I took a considerable number of lunar obfervatior.s, by a mean of which 1 make Cape Town, in longitude 18° 24/ 30" eaft of the meridian of Greenwich : latitude obferved in the bay, 33° 55' fouth, and variation of the compafs, obferved about 38 leagues to the weftward, 210 52' weft. We had freih gales from the fouth-fouth-eaft and fouth-eaft, and fome times at fouth, for the firft eight days, which, with a large fea, fo " very much diftreffed our cattle, that we were very apprehenfive we Nov. 25, fliould lofe fome of them. On the 25th, being in latitude 380 40' fouth, and longitude 25' 05' eaft, Captain Phillip embarked on board the Supply, in order to proceed fingly in that vcftel to the coaft of New South Wales, where he made fare of arriving a fortnight or three weeks before us, as fome of the convoy failed very heavy; he took with him from the Sirius, Mr. Philip Gidley King, fecond lieutenant, and Lieutenant Dawes, of the marines, who had hitherto- kept an account of the time-keeper, which he alfo took with him; feveral carpenters, lawyers, and blackfmiths were likewife put on board the Supply, in order, if they arrived in furhcient time, to examine the place attentively 1 and the governor had fixed on the moil: eligible fpot to build upon, there to creel: fome temporary ftore-houfes for the reception of the ftores, when the convoy arrived ; but as a number of working people would be wanted in carrying on fuch fervice, three of the beft failing-tranfports, under the command of Lieutenant Shortland, the agent, were alio directed to quit the convoy, and make the beft of their way to Botany-Bay; Major Rofs, the lieutenant-governor, embarked in one of thofe tranfports ; the remaining tranfports and ftore-fhips were left under the care of the Sirius. The next day, after parting company, the Supply was in fight from the maft-head, and the three tranfports were 1 about about fcven or eight miles from us, but the wind having fhifted to the chap. ii. fouth-eaft in the night of the 27th, we flood to the fouth ward and faw no more of them. I was at this time of opinion, that we had hitherto Nor. 27. kept in too northerly a parallel to enfure ftrong and lafling weilcrly winds, which determined me, as foon as Captain Phillip had left the fleet, to fleer to the fouth ward and keep in a higher latitude. We had the winds from the north-eaft with fqualls and hazy weather, until the 29th, when it backed round to the weftward again, and the weather became fair. After the time-keeper was taken from the Sirius, I kept an account of the fhip's way by my own watch, which I had found for a confiderable time, to go very well with Keiidal's; I kwew it could be depended on fufficiently to carry on from one lunar obfervation to another, without any material error; for although its rate of going was not fo regular as I could have wifhed, yet its variation would not in a week or ten days have amounted to any thing of confequence; it was made for me^by Mr. John Brockbank, of Cornhill, London, upon an improved principle of his own. The lunar obfervation, which I never failed to take every opportunity, and which Lieutenant Bradley alfo paid conftant attention to, gave me rcalon to think, by their near agreement with the watch, that it continued to go well. On the ift of DCc. 1, December our longitude, by account, was 36^ 42' eaft; by the watch 360 48' eaft; and by diftance of O and 1 36' 24' eaft: latitude 40" 05' fouth, and the variation of the compafs 29° 40' weft. For three fuc-ceflive days both Mr. Bradley and myfelf had a variety of diftanccs, by which our account feemed to be very correct. I now determined (if I could avoid it) never to get to the northward of latitude 400 oo' fouth, and to keep between that parallel and 43r or 440 fouth. After the -d, I found, by altitudes taken for the watch, that we went farther to the eaftward than the log gave us, and no opportunity offered for getting a F lunar chap, il lunar obfervation to compare with it until the 13th, when both Mr. ~'~ Bradley and I got feveral good diftances of the o and J, by which our Dec. 13. longitude was 70° 22' eaft, by the watch 701 07' eaft, and by account 14th. 67'' 37' eaft. On the 14th, the weather being very clear, we had another fet of diftances, which gave our longitude 73" 06' eaft, by the 15th, watch 73° 09/ eaft, and by account 70 34' eaft. Again, on the 15th, I obferved with two different inftruments, one by Ramfden, and the other by Dolland, and the refults agreed within ten miles of longitude ; *he mean was 75° 18' eaft, by the watch 75* 16' eaft, and by account 72° 49' eaft. Mr. Bradley's mean was alio 750 18' eaft : fo that, as I have already obferved, the fhip feemed gaining on the account; but there was no rcafon to believe, that in the middle of this very extenlivc ocean we were ever fubjeel; to much current: I therefore attribute this fet to the eaftward, to the large following fea, which conftantly attended us, fince we had taken a more foutherly parallel. The variation of the compafs continued to increafe pretty faft, until we were as far to the eaftward as 390 oo' eaft, where we found it 31° oo' weft; from that longitude to 540 30' eaft, it increafed very flowly.to 320 00' weft, which was the higheft we had; during all that time we were in the parallels of 400 co' and 410 oo" fouth. We faw many whales, of a very large i6tb, iize, during this part of our pafTage, but very few birds. On the i 6th, we faw a quantity of fea weed, which I fuppofe might have come from the iiland of Saint Paul, as we were now near its meridian, and not more than 60 leagues from it. We had at prefent every profpecl; of an excellent pailage to Van Diemen's Land : for although the wind fome-times fhifted to the north-eaft, it feldom continued more than a few hours; then backed round again to north-weft and fouth-weft, between which quarters it feemed to blow as a trade wind ; from north-north-eaft to the weftward, and round to fouth-fouth-weft are in general its limits *. r • wc NEW SOUf II W A.I, E S. 3^ we had frequently hazy weather, but not fo thick as to be called foggy; chap. ii. the wind in geneial very frefh. V 1787. Whenever there was an appearance of hazy weather coming on, the fignal to dole was always made, and the convoy kept in as clofe order as poftible, to prevent thofe mips which failed heavy from the rifle of being feparated from the Sirius. On the 20th, the wind increaild and was ft.-ady between weft-north-weft and ibuth-weft ; we feldom failed 1 is than 50 leagues in the 24 hours, and frequently more. With the north-weft winds we generally had foul weather, but whenever the wind changed to the fouth-weft quarter, it cleared up and became pleafant. It feems to be exactly the revcrfe of the efTe&s produced by thofe winds in the northern hemilphcre, where it is well known to feamen, that foutherly and fouth-weft winds are generally attended with hazy and foul weather, often accompanied with ftrong gales; it was exactly fo here with the wind from the north-weft. We knew by experience, when in the open ocean at a diftance from land, in either hemifphcre, that the winds which blow from thofe quarters of the compafs next to the elevated pole, arc generally dry and clear, and from the oppofite, generally wet and hazy. On the ift of January we had a very heavy gale of wind from north- January i, north-weft to weft-north-weft, attended with frequent and very violent fqualls or gufts, and hazy weather ; the convoy in general were brought under a reefed fore top-fail, and the Sirius carried her three ftorm ftay-fails; fo that the tranfports fhould not find it neceftary to attempt carrying more fail than was confiftcnt wtfh fafety; the fea was very high and irregular, and broke with great violence on fome of the fhips; the rolling and labouring of our fhip exceedingly diftreffed the cattle, Which F 2 were CHAP. ii. were now in a very weakly {late, and the great quantities of water which we fliippcd during this gale, very much aggravated their diftrefs ; the 1788. poor animals were frequently thrown with much violence off their legs, and exceedingly bruifed by their falls, although every method, which could be contrived for their eafe and comfort, was praclifed ; the fhip ■was very ill fitted for fuch a cargo j and the very lumbered condition fhe had conilantly been in rendered it impoilihle to do more for them, except by putting flings under them j a method which, when propofed, was rejected by thofe to whofe care and management they were intruded j from an idea, that they would entirely lofe the ufe of their legs by fuch means, although it were only practifed in bad weather. We perceived the fea now covered over with luminous (pots, much refembling fo many Ian thorns floating on its fur face% whether this appearance proceeded from the {pawn of fifli, which may fwim in fmall collected quantities, or from that animal of a jelly-like fubftance, which is known to failors by the name of blubber, I cannot tell, but I believe the latter, as we had feen in the day fome of a large fize. We had now alfo many fea-birds about the fhip, fuch as albatroffes, gulls of different kinds, and i large black bird, which, in the motion of its wings, had much the appearance of a crow, but its neck and wings are longer than thofe of that bird, and it is altogether larger.. fmaasy 4. On the 4th of January we had a number of good obfervations for the-longitude, and as it was probable they might be the lait we mould have an opportunity of taking, before we ihould make Van Diemcn's Land, the refult, which gave 1350 50' eaft, was marked with chalk in large characters on a black painted board, and (hewn over the ftern to the convoy § convoy; at the lame time a fignal was made which had been previoufly chap, h appointed, 1788. On the 6th in the evening, as I intended running in for the land all January 5, night, I made the fignal for the convoy to clofe, and to drop into the Sirius's wake, under an eafy fail; the night was dark, but clear in the horizon, fo that we could fee near two leagues a-head. This nr-ht the aurora auftreales were very bright, of a beautiful crimfon colour, ftreaked with orange, yellow, and white, and thefe colours were conftantly changing their places: the higheft part was about 450 above the horizon, and it fpread from fouth by eaft to fouth-fouth-weft. On the next 7th* morning at fun-rife, one of the tranfports having pufhed a little a-head, made the fignal for feeing the land, in which, however, fhe was mif-taken : we at this time judged ourfelves not lefs than 33 or 34 leagues from it, deducing our diftance from the laft lunar obfervation. It may not be improper, before I proceed farther, to obferve of the compafs, that its wefterly variation decreafed from the longitude of 540 30'eaft, where it was greatcft, (viz. 32" 10' weft,) to longitude 135" 30' eaft, where it was i°oo' eaft. We continued fleering in for the land, and the weather being cloudy, in order to make fure of our latitude, which, in our prefent fituation, was of confequence, we took two altitudes before noon, by which we were in 440 05' fouth, which b.ing feventeen miles to the fouthward of the rock, called the Mewftone, we hauled from eaft-north-eaft to north-eaft, and at three P. M. of the 8 th, (by log,) we made the End in that direction, flood well in with the Mewftone, and, as the wind was frefh from the weftward, I would have gone within it, and ranged along the coaft ii. from point to point; but having a convoy of tranfports and (lore-(hips aftcrn, who were to be led by the Sirius, I was apprehenfivc, in cafe it fell little wind under-the land, and night fet in, an accident might have happened to fome of thofe (hips, which all the knowledge I could have rained, by a nearer examination of the coaft, would not have com-pen fated r I therefore flood on without the Mewftone, and fteered in for the fouth cape, which we patted at three miles diftance, leaving the rocks Swiily and Eddiftone without us. The fouth cape terminates in a low rocky point, and appears to be a bold fhore, and the hills within it, which are moderately high, appear to have many tall trees upon them, which are very ftreight, and feem to have no branches, except near the top i from which circumftancc, I fuppofc them to be the palm or cabbage tree. To the eaftvvard of the fouth cape, between that and the next point of land, which is called Tafman's-head, is a large bay, at the bottom of which there appears to be an ifland or two; from the fouth-weft cape to the fouth cape there are feveral bays, and pretty deep bights, which may probably afford fome good harbours j there are alio feveral appearances of iflands on this part of the coaft, but moft of them feem to lie pretty near the land, except the Mewftone, (a high ragged rock) which is about ten miles off, and Swiily and Eddyftone, which lie about fouth by eaft from the fouth cape, about five leagues diftant, Swiily is a high rock, and the Eddittone has, at a diftance, the appearance of a fail; thefe two rocks are at the oppofite ends of a ledge of fun ken rocks, on which the fea feemed to break very high: this ledge lies eaft-north-eaft and weft-fouth-weft ; the two rocks are in one with that bearing. The latitudes and longitudes of the different points or capes, feem to have been very correctly determined by Captains Cook and Furneaux, when when they were here; it would therefore be fuperfiuous to mention cHap than here from any other authority ; they have fettled them as under: 1 k 1788.. • * South-weft cape - • latitude 43 37 00 S. longitude 146 07 00 E. of Greenwich. South cape - ditto 43 42 00 ditto 146 56 00 Tafuu-nVhcad - - ditto 43 33 00 ditto 147 28 00 Swiily ifland, or rock, ditto 43 55 00 ditto 147 06 00 Adventure bay - - ditto 42 21 20 dkto 147 29 °° Such obfervations as we had an opportunity of making near this coaft, agree very well with the above. We had jufl got to the eaftward of the fouth cape as it became dark, and were about four miles from it when it fell calm, and foon after a very light air fprung up from eaft-north-eaft, which, with a largo wefterly fvvell, fcarcely gave the (hips fteerage way: this fituation gave, me fome anxiety, as I was uncertain whether the fternmoft fhips had feen Swiily, and they were at this time a little fcattered; the breeze, however, favoured us, by freihentng up at north-eaft, which enabled the whole of us to weather thofe rocks, without the apprchenfion of pa fling too near them in the dark : in the morning at day-light they bore weft-fouth-weft three leagues. Here we fiw many animals playing along-fide, which were at firft taken for feals; but, after having feen a confiderable number of them, I did not think they were the feal, at leuft they appeared to me a very different animal from the feals to be met with on the coaft of America and Newfoundland ; for they have a fhort round head, but thefe creatures heads were long, and tapered to the nofe ; they had very long whi fleers, 40 A V O Y A G E T O CHAP. n. whifleers, and frequently raifed themfelves half the length of the body out of the water, to look round them, and often leaped entirely out j which I do not ever recollect to have feen the feal do: from thefe cir-cumftanccs, I judged them to be fomething of the fea-otter. 1788. January 8, On the night of the 8th, it blew fo ftrong from north-north-caft and north, as to bring us under clofe reefed main top-fail and fore-fail; this gale was accompanied with thunder, lightning, and rain, which foon changed it to the fouth-weft quarter, and immediately cleared the 10th. weather. On the 10th, we had two very violent white fqualls from north-weft, with lightning, thunder, and rain : thefe fqualls came on fo very fuddenly, that fome of the convoy were taken with too much fail out, which obliged them to let go their tacks and fheets, by which means one fhip carried away her main-yard in the flings, another had her three top-fails blown from the yards, and a third loft her jibb, and fome other trifling accident: this occafioned a fhort delay, but an foon as thefe accidents were repaired we made fail, and availed ourfclves of every flant of wind, to get in with the coaft. I was deiirous of falling in with it about Cape Howe, which is in latitude 37° 30' fouth, and longitude 1 50" oo' eaft, and from thence to have run down along the coaft to Botany-bay; but the wind prevailed fo long from the northward and north-weft, that we could not fetch that part of the co?.ft. i5th. On the 15th, by a good lunar obfervation, I found our longitude to be 152" 43' eaft, which was twenty-five leagues farther from the coaft than I expected we were. Every endeavour was exerted to get to the ,9,b, weftward, and on the 19th in the evening, judging from the laft obfervation, (the dead reckoning bJng out,) that we could not be above eight or nine leagues from the land, the wind being from the eaftward, I made the fignal and brought to with the convoy till day-light, when we wc made trie land in latitude 340 50' fouth, fix or feven leagues diftant. chap. 11. Wc fteered in flanting to the northward, until we were within about fix or 1788. feven miles of the (bore, and then fteered along the coaft at that diftance, not chcofing, as the wind was eafterly, to carry the convoy nearer. At noon, wc were abrcaft of Red-point, which is well determined by Captain Cook : I obferved its latitude to be 340 29' fouth ; this point being only ten leagues from Botany-bay, I made fail a-head of the convoy, in order if poiiible, to get fight of its entrance before night. There are a number of projecting points hereabout, which by being fo near in fhore deceived us a good deal; however, we perceived from the maft-hcad before dark, what I had no doubt was the entrance of the bay, as wc were now near its latitude; which is certainly the only true guide whereby you can find it; for the coaft has nothing fo remarkable in it as to ferve for a direction for finding this harbour. About three leagues to the fouth ward of Botany-bay, there is a range of whitifh coloured cliffs on the coafts, which extend fome diftance farther fouth, and over thefe cliffs the land is moderately high and level; on this level land there is a fmall clump of trees, fomething like that on Poft down hill, near Portfmouth ; thefe, I think, are the only remarkable objects here. As foon as we had brought the entrance of the bay to bear north-north-weft, we brought to, and made the fignal for the convoy to pafs in fuccciTicn under the Sinus's ftern, when they were informed, that I intended, as the wind was eafterly, to keep working off under an eafy fail till day-light, and that the entrance of the harbour bore north-north -Wvft feven or ejght miles; which I fuppofed they could not have been near enough to have feen before dark. The next morning being January 20. fair, with a fouth-eaft wind, we made fail at day-light for this opening, . and, by ilgnal, ordered the fhips into the Sirius's wake. When the bay was quite open, we difcovered the Supply and the three tranfports G at chap. ii. at an anchor; the former had arrived the iSth, and the three latter the ioth. At eight A. M, of the 20th, we anchored with the whole of 1788. the convoy in Botany-bay, in eight fathoms water. As the (hips were failing in, a number of the natives aflembled on the fouth fhore, and, by their motions, feemed to threaten; they pointed their fpears, and often repeated the words, wara, wara. The Supply had not gained more than forty hours of us, and the three tranfports twenty. We probably met with frefher winds than they had done, otherwife I think thefe fhips, all failing well, mould have had much more advantage of the heavy failing part of the convoy- On the firft day of my arrival, I went with the governor to examine the fouth fhore, in order to fix on a fpot for erecting fome buildings j but we found very little frefh water, and not any fpot very inviting for our purpofe: we had a fhort conver-fation with a party of the natives, who were exceedingly fhy. During the time we lay here, we founded the bay all over, and found a confiderable extent of anchorage in four, five, fix, and feven fathoms water, but wholly expofed to eafterly winds, and no poftibility of finding flicker from thofe winds in any part of the anchorage, We anchored on the north fhore, off a fandy bay, which I think as good a birth as any in the bay ; Cape Banks bore eaft-fouth-eaft, and Point Solander fouth-fouth-eaft, the ground clear and good. The wind, either from the north-eaft or fouth-eaft quarters, fet in a prodigious fea. Higher up the bay there is a fpot of four fathoms, where a few fhips might be laid in tolerable fecurity, but they muft be lightened, to enable them to pafs over a flat of twelve feet, and that depth but of narrow- limits. January %u The day after my arrival, the governor, accompanied by me and two other officers, embarked in three boats, and proceeded along the coaft to the northward, intending, if we could, to reach what Captain Cook 6 has has called Broken-bay, with a hope of difcovering a better harbour, as chap. h. well as a better country * for we found nothing at Botany-bay to recommend it as a place on which to form an infant fettlement. In this examination, a large opening, or bay, about three leagues and a half to the northward of Cape Banks, was the firft place we looked into: it had rather an unpromifing appearance, on entering between the outer heads or capes that form its entrance, which are high, rugged, and perpendicular cliffs but we had not gone far in, before we difcovered a large branch extending to the fouthward j into this we went, and foon found ourfelves perfectly land-locked, with a good depth of water. We proceeded up for two days, examining every cove or other place which we found capable of receiving fhips; the country was alio particularly noticed, and found greatly fuperior in every refpecl: to that round Botany-bay. The governor, being fatisfied with the eligibility of this fituation, determined to fix his refidence here, and returned immediately to the fhips. On the 25th, we received the time-keeper from the Supply, which I January 21, am forry to fay, had been let down while on board her, during the pa 11 age from the Cape of Good Hope ; and the fame day, the governor failed in the Supply, with a detachment of marines, to the new harbour, which Captain Cook had obferved as he failed along the coaft, and named Port Jackfon ; he did not enter it, and therefore was uncertain of there being a fafe harbour here: it has the appearance from fea of being only an open bay. The convoy was again left to my care, the mafters of the fhips having had previous orders from Captain Phillip to prepare for fea. On the tCih, 26th, I made the fignal for the tranfports to get under way. We perceived this morning two Large fhips in. the offing, ftanding in for the G 2 bay, ii. bay, under French colours : thefe fhips had been obferved two days before, but the wind blowing frefh from north-weft, they were not able to get in with the land. I fent a boat with an officer to all!ft them in, and about an hour after, a breeze fprung up from the fouth-eaft, and they were fafcly anchored in the bay. I then got under way, and with the tranfports worked out of the bay, and the fame evening anchored, the whole convoy in Port Jackfon. The two ftrangers proved to be the Bufible and Aftrolabe, which failed from Brcft in June, 1785, upon difcoveries, and were commanded by Monf. de-la Peroufe; Monf.de L'Angle, who commanded one of the fhips when they left France, had been lately, when the fhips were at the Iflands of Navigators, murdered, with feveral other officers and feamen, by the natives; who had, before that unfortunate day, always appeared to be upon the moft friendly and familiar terms with them. This accident, we underftood, happened when their launches were on more filling water, on the laft day which they intended remaining at thofe iflands : during the time they were employed in filling their water-caiks, having the moft perfect confidence in the friendly difpoiition of the natives, the failors had been inattentive to the keeping the boats afloat; ibmc mifunderftanding having happened between fome of the feamen and the natives, an infult had been offered by one or other, which was rcfented by the oppofite party; a quarrel enfucd, and the impoflibility of moving the boats, expofed the officers and crews to the rage of the multitude, who attacked them with clubs and fhowers of ftones, and would' inevitably have malfacred the whole, if there had not been a fmall boat at hand, which picked up thofe, who depending on .their fwiinming, had quitted the fhore. Many of the natives were killed upon this occafion; and-the lofs of the fhips was faid to have 9 been been fourteen perfons killed, including Captain de L'Angle, and fome chap, it other officers j feveral were much wounded; and the boats were en., 1788. tirely deftroyed. This account of the accident is by no means to be confidered as a correct ftatement of it; as it is only collected from little hints dropt in the courfe of converfation with different officers of thofe fhips: they did not appear difpofed to fpeak upon that fubject, we therefore did not prefurne to interrogate. The voyage of thofe fhips will no doubt be publiffied by authority; till then we muft wait for the particulars of that, and another unfortunate accident which happened to them upon the weft coaft of America, where they loft two boats and twenty-two men, including fix officers, in a furf. A TABLE A TABLE of the Winds and Weather, 6cc. occ. on a Paflage from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope; and from thence to Botany-Bay, on the Eaft Coaft of New Holland, on board His Majefty's Ship Sirius, in 1787, and Beginning of 17SS. Year, Month, and itkudc c Longitude in Day. -3 r787. Sept. 5 South; ■ j Nf Marie jo Ifland N."| W. - leigucs Weft. # 6 24 33 42 22 7 25 46 40 34 8 25 56 39 39 9 26 oS 38 09 10 25 55 37 07 11 27 07 37 07 12 28 42 36 04 *3 29 34 33 56 14 3° 2S 33 22 15 3° 37 3i 39 16 J7 3° 31 54 36 31 .18 00 54 18 32 OJ 26 27 19 32 10 2 + 30 20 31 55 22 4* 21 '3 2 °7 22 45 22 i 1 33 04 ——j j 2 33 Winds. Variable. Eaft. E. N. E. N. E. N. N. E. Variable. South. South. E. S. E. E. S. E. E. N. E. E. N. E, N. N. E. N. by E. N. by E. Variable. Variable. Calm. Vai iable. North. North. N. N. W. W. N. W N. N. E. South. S. by W. South. S. E. by S. S. E. South. Kail. N. E. 74 70 68 68 70 68 70 68 66 60 60 59 60 Barometer at Noon. 30 09 30 °9 30 21 30 26 30 22 5° 16 30 14 30 1 3° 13 30 21 3° 3° *4 *o 2; 3° 35 30 28 pay 25 26 27 28 29 3° 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 o 11 12 Weather, &c. &:c. 6 1-iglit aix« and fair. / P. M, light airs. A. M. frefh breezes I and cloudy. Frefh breezes and cloudy. f Moderate breezes in the night. Squally i with thunder, lightning,"and rain. Moderate and fair. Moderate and fair. Frefh breezes and fqually. Frefh breezes and fqually, Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. t Squally and heavy ram till 8 A. M. then 1 light airs and fair, 9 Light airs, frequent calms, and hazy. Light airs and fair. P. M. ditto. A. M. frcfu breezes and clear. 8 Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. Squally and unfettled. £refh breezes and fqually, with rain. 9 * ■ M. cloudy. A. M. moderate and fail 9 Moderate breezes and clear. Sept. 23 Year, Mouth, and Day. 17^7* Sept. n 25 26 27 28 South 33 i Longitude in Wert. 81 22 co A m l7 °9 j October I 7 8 9 10 11 12 34 26 34 20 34 25 34 25 34 25 33 54 34 42 35 Winds. »4 07 9 25 7 08 4 30 3 07 3 10 Eaft.* o 51 o 36 35 20 2 58 55 32 35 34 36 17 4 33 5 5* 6 24 36 5c| 6 50 36 5.5 36 04 35 as 35 00 34 29 7 55 1 o 1 o 13 08 I5 23 17 ©o N. N. E North. North. S. W. s. s. w. S. W. by S. Weft, w. s. w, W. N. W. W. N. W. N.W.hyW. W. N.'W. s. s. w. S. by E. S. S. E. Variable. North. N. N. W. w. s. vv. S. w. N. VV. VV. hv S. to N. E. N. E. North. Variable. Eaft. N. E. Variable. Eaft. N. E. N.E.'byN VWN. W. N, W. W. N. VV. w. s. w. VV. s. VV. s. w. South. S. E. by S. '3 Barome ter at Noon. 54 57 60 62 59 56 60 60 62 64 63 63 "62 60 60 60 60 62 29 96 9 94 9 43 Weather, &c. eke. l)av »3 o 20 0 26 29 96 o 01 3° °4 29 9; 3° 3° x4 30 20 10 08 *5 16 n 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 f P. M. fqually. At noon ftrong gale L and hazy. f Strung gales with heavy fqualls and a L heavy fea f Frcfh gales and fqually, with thunder, \ lightning, and rain. 7[Frtdh gales and fqually ^ cleared up at noon. 6 Freih gales and clear, 4 Frelh gales and hazy. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. 5IP, M. f eih gales and cloudy. A. M. fair. (P.M. f.v I hazy w P. M. fqually. A. M. moderate and fair Light breezes and fair. 8 Light airs and hazy, with fmall rain, f p. M. moderate and cloudy. a. M L hazy with rain. 29 9J 11 *i 29 97 28 29 99 29 30 46 1 3> 2 3Q 23 1 3 P. M. frelh breezes and clear. A. M ith rain. P. M. light airs and hazy. A. M. fair. Moderate breezes and cloudy. 8 Moderate and cloudy, A. M. fair. Frcfh breezes and fair, Freih breezes and fqually, 9 P, M. ditto. A. M, moderate asd cloudy. Moderate and cloudy. From 14th of October to the 13th of November, lying in Table-Bay, Cape of Good Hope, Thermometer Irom 61 to 67. Nov, t 4S A V O Y A G E T O i ear, Mouth, and Day. Latitude a Longitude in I787. Nov. South. 0 ' Eaft. 3+ 08 16 41 "4 35 H 15 00 *5 35 24 J3 21 16 35 43 12 54 17 36 39 11 43 18 37 J3 10 49 r9 37 40 10 27 20 37 40 10 23 21 38 42 12 57 22 39 00 15 40 23. 39 08 j8 42 24 39 05 20 49 25 38 47 22 ^3 26 38 11 26 46 27 38 29 26 29 28 39 13 28 1 34 29 39 5^ 30 44 . 3° 40 oc » 32 •06 Dec. 1 < 40 . °' 35 5° 2 40 02 37 14 3 40 1 4i 06 4 40 37 44 54 Winds. II s. s. w. •S. by E. S. S. E. South South. South. S. S. E. South. S. S. E. S. S. E. E. S. E. E. S. E. Variable. S. S. E. to N. E. N. by E. N. W. W. N. W. W. N. W. Weft. Weft S. W. Weft. VV. N. W. W.N. W. w. s. w. s. w. S. E. E. N. E. N. E. N. W. S. W. South. N. E. N. W. N. W. S. W. Weft. N. N. W. VV. N. W. E. N. E. North. N. W. S. W. Haromc- "a tcr at Noon. IS 0 0 63 30 40 63 3° 3i 62 30 53 64 30 25 61 30 14 61 3° 33 65 30 10 64 29 99 65 29 33 65 29 91 65 29 95 63 3° °7 61 3° oj 62 3° 20 61 3° 20 72 64 66 60 61 62 60 29 08 < 29 ning, At 12 moderate and fair. A. M. I Frcfh gales. Moderate and cloudy; in the night, fqualls with rain, thunder, and lightning ; at noon, light airs. (Light airs and fair till 7, then frelh I gales and frequent fqualls. (P. M. fqually. A. M. light breezes and ( clear. P. M. light breezes and clear. A. M jjaay with rain. Jan. 16 5i \ car, Month, and Day 1788. Jan. 16 17 18 19 20 South. 37 4o 37 18 longitude in Ealt. 0 t t5i 30 151 46 35 50*51 37 34 29 150 43 Winds. North. N. N. W. North. Eaft. South. N. W. Calm. South. S. S. E. S. E. |j Barome-" tcr at Noon. E * H S o 75 72 72 70 29 60 29 84 29 99 30 33 13 a Sr. Day 10 11 12 Weather, &0« &c. f Frefli breezes and hazy ; at noon, mo. (. derate and fair. ( Light airs and variable ; heavy rain in { the night. C Calms and light airs. A. M. frefli I breezes and cloudy. Moderate breeze* and fair. o. il. %jj -j *p:»««MM« viccxa anu iair. RedI Point W. I N. a round hill to the northward of it, W, by N. Off fhore 6 miles At 8 A. M. anchored in Botany-Hay with the convoy. ' An ACCOUNT of Obfervations for the Variation of the Compafs, made on board His Majefty's Ship Sirius, between the Cape of Good Hope and Botany-Bay, in 1787 and 1788. Latitude in South. 34 20 35 23 30 1 r 37 23 37 4o 38 44 39 07 3« 47 38 15 38 10 38 39 39 54 39 55 40 09 40 04 40 10 40 52 40 20 40 54 4» 00 41 01 L4IOI Longitude in Ealt. 17 11 14 44 *3 43 10 49 10 23 *3 44 21 29 22 20 25 59 26 05 20 42 29 52 29 58 36 13 38 01 46 50 49 2t 54 n 63 09 64 40 70 48 .73 25 Variation by Azimuth. Amplitude. 21 22 20 21 26 3o 30 29 32 29 3° 28 30 W 33 54 10 40 22 00 5° 12 09 08 55 3° 21 20 18 20 03 W. 56 00 °3 25 00 30 27 3o 45 3° 30 20 30 3«> Latitude in South. 40 18 40 59 41 08 41 36 42 13 42 23 43 °l 43 43 43 51 44 00 43 45 43 56 43 31 43 11 42 46 42 14 4i 43 4° 27 38 25 37 47 36 19 Longitude in Ealh 74 ■& 97 3 27 33 3« 46 47 49 49 50 50 50 51 5i 52 25 06 44 3° 37 °5 01 46 5i 34 *3 52 *3 44 08 3° 38 16 11 45 Variation by Azimuth. Amplitude. 25 30 W 17 40 16 30 16 30 9 00 1 22 1 00 E. 5 30 6 40 7 27 o 20 8 30 8 40 10 43 10 45 9 40 23 00 W 20 30 18 bo 15 00 1 00 5 24 E. 6 10 9 3° io 45 H 2 CHAPTER CHAP. III. CHAPTER nr. Frequent interviews with the natives.—Weapons defcribed.*—Ornaments.—* Perfons, manners, and habitations.—Method of hunting.—Animals defcribed.—Birds, and infects.—Diary of the weather.—Departure of the Bujfole and AJlrolabe.—A convict pretends to have dijcovered a gold mine.—The fraud detected.—Obfervations for the longitude, &c. AFEW days after my arrival with the tranfports in Port Jackfon, I fet off with a fix oared boat and a fmall boat, intending to make T788- as good a furvey of the harbour as circumftances would admit: I took February. to my affiftance Mr. Bradley, the firft lieutenant, Mr. Keltic, the matter* and a young gentleman of the quarter-deck. During the time we were employed on this fervice, we had frequent meetings with different parties-of the natives, whom we found at this time very numerous; a circum-ftance which I confefs I was a little furprized to find, after what had been faid of them in the voyage of the Endeavour; for I think it is obferved in the account of that voyage, that at Botany-bay they had feen. very few of the natives, and that they appeared a very flupid race of people, who were void of curiofity. We faw them in confiderable numbers,, and they appeared to us to be a very lively and inquifitive race; they are a ftraight, thin, but well made people, rather fmall in their limbs, but very active ; they examined with the greateft attention, and expreffed the \itmoft aftonifhment, at the different covering we had on $ for they certainly tainly confidered our cloaths as fo many different fkins, and the hat as a c part of the head : they were pleafed with fuch trifles as we had to give v them, and always appeared chearful and in good humour : they danced and fung with us, and imitated our words and motions, as we did theirs. They generally appeared armed with a lance, and a fhort,flick which afiifls in throwing it: this flick is about three feet long, is flattened on one fide, has a hook of wood at one end, and a flat fhell, let into a fplit in the flick at the other end, and fattened with gum; upon the flat fide of this flick'the lance is laid, in the upper end of which is a fmall hole,, into which the point of the hook of the throwing flick is fixed j this retains the lance on the flat fide of the flick } then poifing the lance, thus fixed, in one hand, with the fore-finger and thumb over it, to prevent its falling off fide-ways, at the fame time holding faft the throwing-flick,, they difcharge it with confiderable force, and in a very good direction, to the diftance of about fixty or feventy yards *. Their lances are in-general about ten feet long : the fhell at one end of the throwing-flick is intended for fharpening the point of the lance, and for various other ufes. I have feen thefe weapons frequently thrown, and think that a man upon his guard may with much eafe, either parry, or avoid them, although it muft be owned they fly with aftonifhing velocity. While employed on the furvey of the harbour, we were one morning early, in the upper part of it, and at a confiderable diftance from the fhip,. going to land, in order to afcertain a few angles, when we were a little furprized to find the natives here in greater numbers than we had ever feen them before in any other place : we naturally conjectured from their * I have fmcc feen a ftrong young man throw the lance full ninety yards; which, till then, X did not believe poihble. I meafured the diftance. I numbers*, numbers, that they might be thofe who inhabited the coves in the lower part of the harbour, and who, upon our arrival, had been fo much alarmed at our appearance, as to have judged it neceffary to retire farther up; they appeared very hoftile, a great many armed men appeared upon the more wherever we approached it, and, in a threatening manner, feemed to infill upon our not prefuming to land. During the whole time we were near them, they hailed each other through the woods, until their numbers were fo much increafed, that I did not judge it prudent to attempt making any acquaintance with them at this time : for, as I have already obferved, we had only a fix-oared boat and a fmallcr one; our whole number, leaving one man in each boat, amounted to ten feamen, three officers, and myfelf, with only three mufkets; we therefore for the prefent, contented ourfelves with making figns of friendfhip, and returned to the fhip. In two days after, we appeared again in the fame place, better armed and prepared for an interview. Their numbers were not now fo many, at lean: we did not fee them, although it is probable they were in the wood at no great diftance j but having occafion to put on fhore to cook fome provifions for the boats crews, I chofe a projecting point of land for that purpofe, which we could have defended againft fome hundreds of fuch people : I ordered two marine centinels upon the neck, in order to prevent a furprize, and immediately fet about making a fire. Wc foon heard fome of the natives in the wood on the oppofite fhore, we called to them, and invited them by figns, and an offer of prefents, to come over to us, the diftance not being more than one hundred yards acrofs : in a fhort time, feven men embarked in canoes and came over; they landed at a fmall diftance from us, and advanced without their lances; on this I went up to meet them, and held up both my hands, to fhew that I was unarmed, iwo officers alfo advanced in the fame manner; we met them and fhook hands, iii. — ' • hands j but they feemed a good deal alarmed at our five marines who were chaf» under arms by the boats, upon which they were ordered to ground their t. arms "and flay by them; the natives then came up with great chearful- xm nefs and good humour, and feated themfelves by our fire amongft us, where we ate what we had got, and invited them to partake, but they did not relifh our food or drink. I was one day on fhore in another part of the harbour, making friend (hip with a party of natives, when in a very fhort time, their numbers encreafed to eighty or ninety men, all armed with a lance and throwing-flick, and many with the addition of a fhield, made of the bark of a tree, fome were in fhape an oblong fquare, and others of thefe fhields were oval; thefe were the firft fhields we had feen in the country *. Upon examining fome of thefe fhields, we obferved that many of them had been pierced quite through in various places, which they by figns gave us to underftand had been done with a fpear ; but that thofe fhields will frequently turn the fpear, they alfo fliewed us, by fetting one up at a fmall diftance, and throwing a fpear at it, which did not go through. They were much furprized at one of our gentlemen who pulling a piftol out of his pocket, that was loaded with ball, and Handing at the fame diftance, fired the ball through the thickeft part of the fhield, which they examined with aftonifhment, and feemed to wonder, that an inflru-mcnt fo fmall mould be capable of wounding fo deep. Our numbers at this time were what I firft mentioned, with only three mufkets, one of which I carried. The natives were very noify, but did not appear dif-pofed to quarrel; we gave them fuch little prefents as we had with us, with which they feemed well pleafed ; although we had much reafoa * It has fine: been found that the fhields arc in general made of wood. 2 afterwards afterwards to believe, that fuch trifles only pleafed them, as baubles do children, for a moment: for at other times we had frequently found our prefents lying difperfed on the beach, although caiii. ht at by thefe people with much apparent avidity at the time they were offered. While we were employed with this party, we obferved at a diftance, a number of women, who were peeping from their concealments, but durft not gratify their natural curiofity, by appearing openly and converting with us; as the men appeared here to be very abfolute. I fignifled to the men that we had obferved the women, and that I wifhed to make them fome prefents, if they might be permitted to come forward and receive them. The men feemed unwilling to fuflfer them to advance; for we had frequently obferved, that they took particular care upon every occafion to keep the women at a diftance, and I believe wholly from an idea of danger. They defired to have the prefents for the women, and they would carry and deliver them, but to this propofai I pofitively refilled to agree, and made them underftand, that unlefs they were allowed to come forward, they fhould not have any. Finding I was determined, an old man, who feemed to have the principal authority, directed the women to advance, which they did immediately, with much good humour j and, during the whole time that we were decorating them with beads, rags of white linen, and fome other trifles, they laughed immoderately, although trembling at the fame time, through an idea of danger. Moft of thofe we faw at this time were young women, who I judged were from eighteen to twenty-five years of age; they were all perfectly naked, as when firft born. The women in general are well made, not quite fo thin as the men, but rather fmaller limbed. As foon as the women were ordered to approach us, about twenty men, whom we had not before feen, fallied from from the wood, compleatly armed with lance and fhield; they were chap. painted with red aruH white flreaks all over the face and body, as if they TnT""' intended to ftrike terror by their appearance : fome of them were painted 1788. with a little degree of tafte, and although the painting on others appeared to be done without any attention to form, yet there were thofe who, at a fmall diftance, appeared as if they were accoutred with crofs-belts : fome had circles of white round their eyes, and feveral a horizontal ftreak acrofs the forehead: others again bad narrow white ilreaks round the body, with a broad line down the middle of the back and belly, and a nngle ftreak down each arm, thigh, and leg. Thefe marks, being generally white, gave the perfon, at a fmall diftance, a moft (hocking appearance ; for, upon the black fkin the white marks were fo very con-fpicuous, that they were exactly like fo many moving fkeletons. The colours they ufe are moftly red and white; the firft of which is a kind of ochre, or red earth, which is found here in confiderable quantities; the latter is a fine pipe-clay. The bodies of the men are much fcari-fied, particularly their breafts and fhoulders ; thefe fcarifications are con-fiderably raifed above the fkin, and although they are not in any regular form, yet they are certainly confidered as ornamental. The men, thus armed and painted, drew themfelves up in a line on the beach, and each man had a green bough in his hand, as a fign of fricndlhip 3 their difpofition was as regular as any well difeiplined troops could have been ; and this party, I apprehend, was entirely for the defence of the women, if any infult had been Offered them. We alfo obferved at this interview, that two very ftout armed men, were placed upon a rock, near to where our boats lay, as centinels ; for they never moved from the fpot until we left the beach : I therefore fuppofe they were ordered there to watch all our motions. We left thefe people, after a vifit of I about 5S AVOYAGETO c"fP' aD0Ut four hours, both parties apparently well Satisfied with all that v--' paffed. 1788, In the different opportunities I have had of getting a little acquainted with the natives, who reiide in and about this port, I am, I confefs, difpofed to think, that it will be no very difficult matter, in due time, to conciliate their friendfliip and confidence ; for although they generally appear armed on our firft meeting, which will be allowed to be very natural, yet, whenever we have laid afide our arms, and have made figns of friendfliip, they have always advanced unarmed, with fpirit, and a degree of confidence fcarcely to be expected : from that appearance of a friendly difpofition, I am inclined to think, that by rending fome time amongft, or near them, they will foon difcover that we are not their enemies; a light they no doubt confidered us in on our firft arrival* The men in general are from five feet fix inches, to five feet nine inches high ; are thin, but very ftraight and clean made ; walk very-erect *, and are active. The women are not fo tall, or fo thin, but arc generally well made; their colour is a rufty kind of black, fome-thing like that of foot, but I have feen many of the women almoft a? light as a mulatto. We have feen a few of both fexes with tolerably good features, but in general they have broad nofe*, large wide mouths, and thick lips ; and their countenance altogether not very prepofleffing • and what makes them ftill lefs fo, is, that they are abominably filthy; they never clean their fkin, but it is generally fmeared with the fat of fuch animals as they kill, and afterwards covered with every fort of dirt; fand from the fea beach, and the afhes from their fires, all adhere. * Sec a plate of the natives in Phillip's Voyage. to, N E W S O U T H W A L E S. 59 to their greafy fkin, which is never wrafhed, except when accident, or c"^p* the want of food, obliges them to go into the water. Some of the men wear a piece of wood or bone, thrufl through the feptum of the nofe, >7J which, by raifing the oppofite fides of the nofe, widens the noflril, and fprcads the lower part very much ; this, no doubt, they confider as a beauty; moft of thofe we had hitherto met, wanted the two foremofl teeth on the right fide of the upper jaw ; and many of the women want the two lower joints of the little finger of the left band, which we have not as yet been able to difcover the reafon or meaning of. This defect of the little finger we have obferved in old women, and in young girls of eight or nine years old; in young women who have had children, and in thofe who have not, and the finger has been feen perfect in individuals of all the above ages and defcriptions; they have very good teeth in general; their hair is fhort, ftrong, and curly, and as they feem to have no method of cleaning or combing it, it is therefore filthy and matted. The men wear their beards, which are fhort and curly, like the hair of the head. Men, women, and children go entirely naked, as defcribed by Captain Cook ; they feem to have no fixed place of reft-dencc, but take their reft wherever night overtakes them : they generally fhelter thcmfelves in fuch cavities or hollows in the rocks upon the fea fhore, as may be capable of defending them from the rain, and, in order to make their apartment as comfortable as poflible, they commonly make a good fire in it before they lie down to reft; by which means, the rock all round them is fo heated as to retain its warmth like an oven for a confiderable time ; and upon a little grafs, which is pre-vioufly pulled and dryed, they lie down and huddle together. And here, we fee a finking in fiance of the particular care of Providence for all his creatures. Thefe people have not the moft diftant idea I 2 of CHAP, of building any kind of place which may be capable of flickering them s_ _j from the feverity of bad weather j if they had, probably it would fir ft *788* appear in their endeavours to cover their naked bodies with fome kind of cloathing, as they certainly fufter much from the cold in winter. Their ignorance in building, is very amply compenfated by the kindnefs of nature in the remarkable foftnefs of the rocks, which encompafs the fea coaft, as well as thofe in the interior parts of the country : they are a foft, crumbly, fandy ftone; thofe parts, which are moft expofed to, and reeeive the moft feverity of the weather, are generally harder than fuch parts as are lefs expofed ; in the foft parts time makes wonderful changes ; they are constantly crumbling away underneath the harder and more folid part, and this Continual decay leaves caves of confiderable dimcn-frons : fome I have feen that would lodge forty or fifty people, and, in a cafe of neceflity, we mould think ourfelves not badly lodged for a night. Wherever you fee rocks in this country, either on the fea-more, or in the interior parts, as they are all of this foft fandy kind, you are lure of finding plenty of fuch caves* In the woods, where the country is not very rocky, we fometimes met with a piece of the bark of a tree, bent in the middle, and fet upon the ends*, with a piece fet up againft that end on which the wind blows. This hut ferves them for a habitation, and will contain a whole family ; for, when the weather is cold, which is frequently the cafe in winter, they find it neccflary to lie very clofe for the benefit of that warmth to which each mutually contributes a mare. Thefe bark huts, (if they deferve even the name of huts) are intended, as we have lately difcovered, for thofe who are employed in hunting the kangaroo, opof- * Fwr ancxacl description and reprcfentation of this hut, fee Governor Phillip's Voyage, funis, fnms, or in fhort, any other animals which are to be found in the woods; chap. for at certain feafons, when thofe animals are in plenty, they employ i *_t themfelves frequently in catching them. As moft of the large tree6 are 1788, hollow, by being rotten in the heart, the opoffum, kangaroo rat, fquir-rel, and various other animals which inhabit the woods, when they are purfued, commonly run into the hollow of a tree : in order, therefore, to make furc of them, which they feldom fail in, when they find them in the tree, one man climbs even the talleffc tree with much eafe, by means of notches at convenient diftances, that are made with a flone hatchet; when he is arrived at the top, or where there may be an outlet for the animal, he fits there with a club or flick in his hand, while another perfon bdow applies a fire to the lower opening, and fills the hollow of the tree with fmoak; this obliges the animal to attempt to make its efcape, either upwards or downwards, but whichever way it goes, it is almofl certain of death, for they very feldom efcape. In this manner they employ themfelves, and get a livelihood in the woods ; they alfo, when in confiderable numbers, fet the country on fire for feveral miles extent; this, we have generally underflood, is for the pur-pofe of difturbing fuch animals as may be within reach of the conflagration ; and thereby they have an opportunity of killing many. We have alfo had much reafen to believe, that thofe fire-s were intended to clear that part of the country through which they have frequent occafion to travel, of the brufh or underwood, from which they, being naked, kilter very great inconvenience. The fires, which we very frequently faw, particularly in the fummer-time, account alfo for an appearance, which, when we arrived here, we were much perplexed to understand the caufe of; this was, that two-thirds of the trees in the woods were very much fcorched with lire, fome were burnt quite black, up to the very top: as to the caufe of this appearance we differed much in our opinions; but chap, but it is now plain, that it has ever been occafioned by the fires, I --, which the natives fo frequently make, and which we have feen reach 1788. the higheft branches of the trees : we fometimes, upon our arrival here, conjectured that it proceeded from lightning, but upon looking farther, it appeared too general amongft the woods to have been occafioned by fuch an accident. We had reafon to believe, that the natives afTociate in tribes of many families together, and it appeared now that they have one fixed refidence, and the tribe takes its name from the place of their general refidence: you may often viiit the place where the tribe refidcs, without finding the whole fociety there; their time is fo much occupied in fearch of food, that the different families take different routs ; but, in cafe of any difpute with a neighbouring tribe, they can foon be affembled. We are well informed by thofe whom we have had among us, that they fometimes have quarrels, and that they endeavour from concealments, to deftroy thofe they are at war with. They are by no means a brave and determined people, except when paffion overcomes them, and when they act as all favages do, like madmen. In all their quarrels with one another, they put themfelves under the direction of a chief: how thofe chiefs are chofen we have not learnt, but have reafon to believe it is from an opinion of their dexterity in war. All the human race, which we have feen here, appear to live chiefly on what the fea affords, and confequently we find the fea-coaft more fully inhabited than the interior, or that part of the country which we have had an opportunity of vifiting more remote from the fea. The men fifh with a fpear, or fifh-gig, in the ufe of which, it is apparent they are very dextrous. The filh-gig is in length fomething more than the war ► war lance, but they can, according to the depth of water, increafe its chap. length, by a variety of joints; fome have one, fome two, three, or four <-r^—J prongs, pointed and barbed with a filh, or other animal's bone. We i788. have fometimes, in fine weather, feen a man lying acrofs a canoe, with his face in the water, and his fifli-gig immerfed, ready for darting: in this manner he lies motionlefs, and by his face being a little under the furface, he can fee the fim diflindly j but were his eyes above, the tremulous motion of the furface, occafioned by every light air of wind, would prevent his fight: in this manner they ftrike at the fifh with fo much certainty, that they feldom mifs their aim. The women are chiefly employed in the canoes, with lines and hooks; the lines appear to be manufactured from the bark of various trees which we found here, of a tough ftringy nature, and which, after being beaten between two Hones-for fome time, becomes very much like, and of the fame colour as a quantity of oakum, made from old rope : this they fpin and twill info two ftrands: in fact, I never faw a line with more than two. Their hooks are commonly made from the infide, or mother of pearl, of different fliclls; the talons of birds, fuch as thofe of hawks, they fometimes make this ufe of; but the former are considered as belt. In this neceffary employment of fifhing, we frequently faw a woman with two or three children in a miferable boat, the higheft part of which was not fix inches above the furface of the water, wafhing almoft in the edge of a furf, which would frighten an old feaman to come near, in a good and manageable vcffel. The youngeft child, if very fmall, lies acrofs the mother's lap, from whence, although Hie is fully employed in fifhing, it cannot fill; for the boat being very fhallow, flic fits in the bottom, with her knees up to her breafl, and between her knees and body, the child lies perfectly fecure. The men alfo dive for fliell-fifh, which they take off from the rocks under water j we frequently law them leap.- o from from a rock into the furf or broken water, and remain a furprizing time under: when they rife to the furface, whatever they have gathered they throw on fhore, where a perfon attends to receive it, and has a fire ready kindled for cooking. They have no other method of drefling their food, than that of broiling. Boiling water they have no conception of, as appeared very lately; for when one of our boats was hauling the feine, one of the failors had put a pot on the fire ready to drefs fome fifh, and when the water was boiling, fome fifh were put in j but feveral natives, who were near, and who wifhed to have more fiih than had been given them, feeing the fifh put into the pot, and no perfon watching them, a native put his hand into the boiling water to take the fifh out, and was of courfe fcalded, and exceedingly aftonifhed. With refpect to religion, we have not been able yet to difcover that they have any thing like an object of adoration ; neither the fun, moon, nor flars feem to take up, or occupy more of their attention, than they do that of any other of the animals which inhabit this immenfe country. Their dead they certainly burn, of which I have been well convinced lately, when employed on the furvey of adiflant branch of Port Jackfon. Some of my boat's crew having, when on fhore, difcovered a little from the water-fide, upon a riling ground, what they judged to be a frefli grave, I went up and ordered it to be opened ; when the earth was removed, we found a quantity of white afhes, which appeared to have been but a very fhort time depofited there : among the afhes we found part of a human jaw-bone, and a fmall piece of the fcull, which, although it had been in the fire, was not fo much injured, as to prevent our diftinguifliing perfectly what it was. We put the aflies together again and covered it up as before j the grave was not fix inches under the the furface of the ground, but the earth was raifed the height of our chap graves in Lurope. In the months of March and April, we found the natives to decreafe in their numbers confiderably; but we have no reafon to fuppofe that they retire back into the interior parts of the country; for in all the excurfions which have been made inland, very few have been feen. The fea-coaft, we have every reafon at prefent to believe, is the only part of this country which is inhabited by the human race; the land feems to afford them but a very fcanty fubfiftencc. We have feen them roaft and chew the fern-root. There is a fmall fruit here, about the fize of a cherry j it is yellow when half grown, and almoft black when ripe; it grows on a tree, which is not tall, but very full and bufhy at the top; of this fruit we have often feen them eat: it has a good deal the tafle of a fig, and the pulp, or in fide, very much refembles that fruit in appearance : but the fea is their principal refource, and fhell, and other fifh, are their chief fupport. They frequently attended our boats when hauling the feine, and were very thankful to the officer for any fifh he might give them, as in cold weather the harbour is but thinly flocked ; indeed, when we arrived here it was full of fifh, and we caught as many as we could ufe, but in the winter they feem to quit our neighbourhood. I had reafon to think, that the people who inhabited Port Jackfon when we firft entered it were gone farther to the northward, and that it is their conftant cuflom, as the cold weather approaches, to feek a warmer climate, by following the fun ; and in this practice they have another very powerful incitement, as well as the comfortable warmth of the fun, which is, that the fifh incline to the northward, as the cold weather comes on: this conjecture feems, in fbme degree, to account for Captain Cook's having feen fo few natives K while CHAP, while he lay in Botany-bay, and that it appeared to him the fea- v..—,--1 coaft was thinly inhabited; for I think it was in April, or May, that he 1788. was there* The animal defcribed in the voyage of the Endeavour, called the kangaroo, (but by the natives patagarang) we found in great numbers; one was lately mot which weighed 140 pounds; its tail was 40 inches long,, and 17 in circumference at the root;, it is very well defcribed in Phillip's, Voyage: we ate the flefh with great reliih, and I think it good mutton, although not fo delicate as that which we fometimes find in Leadenhall-market. The ftrength this animaL has in its hind quarters is very great:. in its endeavours to efcape from us, when fiirprized, it fprings from its-hind legs, which are very long, and leaps at each bound about fix or eight yards, but does not appear ever in running to let its fore-feet come near the ground; indeed they are fo very fhort, that it is not poflible that the animal can ufe them in running : they have vaft ftrength. alfo in their tail; it is, no doubt, a principal part of their defence, when attacked; for with it they canftrike with prodigious force, I believe with fufficent power to break the leg of a man ; nor is it improbable but that this great ftrength in the tail may aflift them in making thofe aftonifhing fprings. We for fome time confidered their tail as their chief defence, but having of late hunted them with' greyhounds very fuccefsfully, we have had an opportunity of knowing that they ufe their claws and teeth.. The dog is much fwifter than the kangaroo : the chafe, if in an open wood, (which is the place moft frequented by that animal,) is feldom more than eight or ten minutes, and if there are more dogs than one, feldom fo long. As foon as the hound feizes him, he turns, and. catching hold with the nails of his fore-paws, he fprings upon, and ilrikes at the dog with the claws of his hind feet, which are wonderfully I ftrong, ftrong, and tears him to fuch a degree, that it has frequently happened that we have been under the neceffity of carrying the dog home, from the feverity of his wounds : few of thefe animals have ever effected their efcape, after being feized by the dog, for they have generally caught them by the throat, and there held them until they were amfled, although many of them have very near loft their lives in the ftruggle. Some of the male kangaroos are of a very large fize ; I have feen fome, that when fitting on their haunches, were five feet eight inches high 5 fuch an animal is too ftrong for a fingle dog, and although he might be much wounded, would, without the dog had affiftance at hand, certainly kill him. We know that the native dogs of this country hunt and kill the kangaroo ; they may be more fierce, but they do not appear to be fo ftrong as our large greyhound; there was one not long ago feen in purfuit of a kangaroo, by a perfon who was employed in fhooting, who miftaking the two animals as they paffed him to be of the kind he was looking for, he fired at the hindmoft and brought him down, but when he came up it proved to be a native dog. Of thofe dogs we have had many which were taken when young, but never could cure them of their natural ferocity; although well fed, they would at all times, but particularly in the dark, fly at young pigs, chickens, or any fmall animal which they might be able to conquer, and immediately kill, and generally eat them. I had one which was a little puppy when caught, but, not-withftanding I took much pains to correct and cure it of its favagenefs, I found it took every opportunity, which it met with, to fnap off the head of a fowl, or worry a pig, and would do it in defiance of correction. They are a very good natured animal when domefticated, but I believe it to be impoflible to cure that favagenefs, which all I have feen feem to poffefs. The CHAP. The opofTum is alfo very numerous here, but it is not exactly like the '—V-~""J American opofTum; it partakes a good deal of the kangaroo in the »78fr. ftrength of its tail and make of its fore-legs, which are very fhort in proportion to the hind ones ; like-that animal, it has the pouch, or falfe belly, for the fafety of its young in time of danger, and its colour is nearly the fame, but the fur is thicker and finer. There are feveral other animals of a fmaller fize, down as low as the field-rat, which in fome part or other partakes of the kangaroo and opoffum : we have caught many rats with this pouch for carrying their young when pur-fued, and the legs, claws, and tail of this rat are exactly like the kangaroo. It would appear, from the great iimilarity in fome part or other of the different quadrupeds which we find here, that there is a promiscuous intercourfe between the different fexes of all thofe different-animals. The fame obfervation might be made alfo on the fifties of the fea, on the fowls of the air, and, I may add, the trees of the fore ft. It was wonderful to fee what a vaft variety of fifh were caught, which, in fome part or other, partake of the fhark : it is no uncommon thing to fee a fkait's head and fhoulders to the hind part of a fhark, or a mark's head to the body of a large mullet, and fometimes to the flat, body of a fling-ray. With refpect to the feathered tribe, the parrot prevails; we have fliot birds, with the head, neck, and bill of a parrot, and with the fame variety of the moft beautiful plumage on thofe parts for which that bird lie re is diftinguifhed, and a tail and body of a different make and colour, with long, ftreight, and delicate made feet and legs; which is the very reverfe of any bird of the parrot kind. I have alfo feen a bird, with the legs and feet of a parrot, the head and neck made and coloured like the common fea-gull, and the wings and tail of a hawk. I have like-wife wife feen trees bearing three different kinds of leaves, and frequently chap. have found others, bearing the leaf of the gum-tree, with the gum exuding from it, and covered with bark of a very different kind. 17g^ There are a great variety of birds in this country; all thofe of the parrot tribe, fuch as the macaw, cockatoo, lorey, green parrot, and parroqucts of different kinds and fizes, are cloathed with the moft Tbeautiful plumage that can be conceived; it would require the pencil of an able limner to give a ftranger an idea of them, for it is impoffible by words to defcribe them *. The common crow is found here in confiderable numbers, but the found of their voice and manner of croaking,, is very different from thofe in Europe. There are alfo vaft numbers of hawks, of various fizes and colours. Here are like wife pigeons and quails,, with a great variety of fmaller birds, but I have not found one with a pleafing note. There have been feveral large birds feen fince we arrived in this port; they were fuppofed, by thofe who firft faw them,, to be the oftrich, as they could not fly when purfued, but ran exceed-inglyf aft; fo much fo, that a very ftrong and fleet greyhound could not come near them : one was fhot, which gave us an opportunity of a more clofe examination. Some were of opinion that it was the emew, which I think is particularly defcribed by Dr. Goldfmith, from Linneus; others imagined it to be the caflbwary, but it far exceeds that bird in fize; it was, when flanding, feven feet two inches, from its feet to the upper part of its head; the only difference which I could perceive, between this bird and the oflrich, was in its bill, which appeared to me to be narrower at. the point, and it has three toes, which I am told is not the cafe with the oftrich : it has one characteriftic, by which it may * See very accurate reprefentations, drawn from nature, and defcribed by that ingenious and able naturalift, John Latham, Efq-, in Phillip's Voyage, be be known, and which we thought very extraordinary ; this is, that two diHind feathers grew out from every quill*. The fleili of this bird, although coarfe, was thought by us delicious meat; it had much the appearance, when raw, of neck-beef; a party of five, myfelf included, dined on a fide-bone of it moft fumptuoufly. The pot or fpit received every thing which we could catch or kill, and the common crow was relilhed here as well as the barn-door fowl is in England. Of infeds there are as great a variety here as of birds; the fcorpion, centipede, fpider, ant, and many others ; the ants are of various fizes, from the fmalleft known in Europe, to the fize of near an inch long; fome are black, fome white, and others, of the largeft fort, reddifh ; thofe of this kind are really a formidable little animal; if you tread near the neft, (which is generally under ground, with various little paffages or outlets) and have difturbed them, they will fally forth in vail numbers, attack their difturbers with aftonifhing courage, and even purfue them to a confiderable diftance ; and their bite is attended for a time with a moft acute pain. Some build their nefts againft a tree, to the fize of a large bee-hive ; another kind raifes little mounts on the ground, of clay, to the height of four feet. In fpeaking of the fpider, it would be improper to be filent upon the induftry of this little creature; I call them little, although, if compared with our common fpider, they are very large ; they fpread their web in the woods between trees, generally to a diftance of twelve or fourteen yards, and weave them fo very ftrong, that it requires confiderable force to break them. I have feen the filk of which the web is compofed, wound off into a ball, and think it equal to any I ever faw in the fame ftate from the filk worm ; it is of the fame colour, a pale yellow, or ftraw colour. None of the gentlemen employed here have as yet made any particular obfervations upon the manner in * See an elegant engraving of the Caflbwary jn Phillip's Voyage. which *rhich this animal is produced, or how they prepare their filk. I have chap. found upon bufhes, on which the web has been hanging in clufters, a <— thin fhell, fomething like that wherein the filk-worm prepares its filk, i788. but of this (liape, <^^/^> and, upon opening them, I have feen a quantity of this filk within, in which a fpider was found wrapped up. Of reptiles, there are fnakes from the fmalleft fize known in England, to the length of eleven feet, and about as thick as a man's wrift; and many lizards-of different kinds and fizes. The natives we have feen accompanied by dogs, which appear to be domefticated the fame as ours in Europe \ they are of the wolf kind, and of a reddifh colour. When fpeaking of birds, I fhould have mentioned, that fome of our gentlemen have feen in the lagoons and fwamps which they have fallen in with, in their fhooting excurfions, the black, fwan, which is faid to have been found in fome parts of the weft coaft of this country; the extremity of their wings are defcribed to be white, and all the reft of the plumage black. I have feen one which has been^ fhot. It anfwered the above defcription as to colour, but the bill was a pale pink or crimfon; it was about the fize of a common white fwan, and was good meat* The vaft variety of beautiful plants and flowers, which are to be found in- this country, may hereafter afford much entertainment to the curious in the fcience of botany; but I am wholly unqualified to defcribe the different forts with which we find the woods to abound; we fometimes met with a little wild fpinach, parfly, and forrel, but in too fm-all quantities to expect it to be of any advantage to the feamen. The flax, plant has been found here in feveral places, but not in any confiderable. quantity; chap, quantity; I have heard it reckoned a good kind, but in that alfo 1 mufl '--v——' confefs my ignorance. 1788. In the infancy of a diftant fettlement, the want of timber to carry on the neceflary buildings, will be allowed to be a very great inconvenience ; but we were here in the middle of a wood, in which were trees from the fize of a man's arm to twenty-eight feet in circumference ; but they were either fo very crooked, fo rent, or fo very rotten in the heart, that we could fcarcely get one found or ferviceable in a dozen ; and what in our fituation was a very great misfortune, we had not as yet found one piece of timber that would float in water. The wood is fo exceedingly heavy, that when a large tree was cut down, in order to clear a piece of ground, it would fometimes take a party of men three or four days to difpofe of it, or move it from the place. Weather. We arrived in this country in the end of January, 1788 ; the weather was then very fine, though warm; the fea and land breezes pretty regular, and Farenheit's thermometer was from 720 to 8o\ February, In February, the weather was fultry, with lightning, thunder, and heavy rain ; this fort of weather continued for a fortnight, with few and very fhort intervals of fair weather ; a rlafh of lightning fell one night near the camp, and flruck a tree near to the poft of a centinel, who was much hurt by it; the tree was greatly rent, and there being at the foot of it a pen in which were a few pigs and fheep, they were all killed. Towards the latter end of the month the weather was more fettled, little thunder, lightning, or rain, and the thermometer from 05° to 77°. In the middle of this month, Lieutenant King of the Sirius, a mafter's mate, and furgeon's mate, with four other men from the the ihip> together with a few men and women convicts, embarked on chap. board the Supply armed tender, and fhe failed with them for Norfolk t _/> Ifland. In the paflage thither, they fell in with a fmall ifland which had 1788. not before been difcovered; it lies in latitude 31° 36' fouth, and about 140 leagues to the eaftward of this coaft; lieutenant Ball named it Lord Howe's Ifland. After having landed the party intended to remain on Norfolk Ifland, with their provifions and flores, Mr. Ball, in his return to Port Jackfon, called at Lord Howe's Ifland, in order to examine it more particularly. He found anchorage on the weft fide of it, but the bottom was coral rock. He landed, with his boat, within a reef, and caught a number of excellent turtle upon a fandy beach : this ifland alfo abounded with a variety of birds, which were fo unaccuftomed to being diflurbed, that the feamen came near enough to knock down as many as they wanted with flicks. In March, the weather was variable, fometimes ftrong gales from the March, fouthward and fouth-eaft, with moifl and hazy weather; a great fea rolling in upon the coaft. This month the marines were ordered to clear ground and begin to build huts and barracks for the winter; the •convicts were alfo directed to employ certain hours in the fame neceflary Avork for themfelves. The mornings and evenings were now rather cold; the thermometer from 6o° to 75". In the month-of April the weather was much the fame as in March ; April, rather variable ; a few days of cloudy weather with rain, which generally fell in the night, and foutherly and fouth-eaft winds; but when the wind fhifted to the weftward or north-weft, the weather became fair -and pleafant, and this weather was frequently attended with fea and land L breezes i C?n?' freezes j the mornings and evenings cold, and the middle of the day (if calm) very hot. Thermometer from 68° to 7 2°. 1788. M»y. The beginning of this month much bad weather, ftrong gales from fouth to fouth-eaft, generally attended with rain in the night, middle of the month fair and fettled weather for feveral days together, with a regular land and fea wind, towards the end of the month the wind prevailed between fouth-weft and fouth-eaft, weather un fet tied, fhowers of rain commonly in the night; in the day little wind and warm weather. The thermometer from 56° to 670. June. The beginning of June fair and pleafant weather, attended with land and fea breezes ; from the middle to the latter end, ftormy weather with much rain, wind chiefly from the fouth-eaft quarter. The thermometer from 52s to 6 20. July. This month begun as the laft ended, with bluflering, rainy weather ; the middle was lefs windy, though cloudy and dull, with frequent fhowers 5 the end of the month fair weather with weflerly winds. The thermometer from 5 2° to 630. Auguft. This month commenced with cloudy weather and much rain, foutherly and fouth-eaft winds 5 the middle moderate and fair with variable winds; the latter part was fair weather writh light and variable winds. The thermometer from 56" to 72°. September, From the beginning till about the 20th, the weather was cloudy with frequent fhowers of rain ; but the latter part had ftrong gales from the fouth-eaft quarter, I was NEW SOUTH WALES. 7J I was furnifhed with the following months by Lieutenant William chap. r i • Hi! Dawes, of the marines. t^-^w 1788. The firft and middle parts of this month the weather was moderate cxtobcr* and cloudy, and the wind very variable, frequent thunder and lightning with fhowers of rain ; the latter part was clear, fine weather in general, with diftant thunder and lightning, and a few violent fqualls of wind, which happened generally in the night. The Thermometer from 49* to 8i°. In the beginning of this month the weather was generally cloudy nd November, hazy, the wind from the eaftward ; the middle part alfo cloudy with frequent light fhowers of rain, thunder, and lightning, fometimes diftant and fometimes very heavy; latter part, cloudy and hazy, with violent thunder, lightning, and rain; wind from north-eaft to fouth-eaft j and the thermometer from 53'' to 93*. The iirft part was cloudy and hazy, with fome thunder, attended with December, light rain ; middle, fame kind of weather, with frequent and light fhowers of rain ; latter part, moderate weather with a good deal of rain : the wind chiefly from the northward and eaftward. The thermometer from During the whole of this month, the weather was cloudy and hazy, January, with light fhowers of rain, and fometimes diftant thunder; the wind chiefly, though from the north-eaft and fouth-eaft, and during the night, wefterly, or land winds. The thermometer from 63° to 112°. O- The thermometer, as marked for thefe laft four months, was in the open air occafionally expofed to the fun and wind. L 2 I judged 76 A V O Y A G E T O CI/lfP* ^ j^^ged it better, while mentioning the weather during the different ' J months, to go on with that by itfelf, and not to mix it with any other I758' occurrences: I muff, therefore, return back as far as the beginning of March, March, at which time, as the two French fhips already fpoken of were preparing to leave this coaft, I determined to vifit Monfieur de la Peroufe before he fhould depart; I accordingly, with a few other officers, failed round to Botany-Bay, in the Sirius's long-boat. We ftaid two days on board the Buffole, and were moft hofpitably and politely entertained, and very much preffed to pafs a longer time with them: when I took my leave the weather proved too ftormy to be able i to get along the coaft in an open boat; I therefore left the long-boat on board the Buffole, took my gun, and, with another officer and two feamen, travelled through the woods and fwamps, of which there were many in our route. We directed our courfe by a pocket compafs, which led us within a mile of our own encampment; the diftanCe from Botany-Bay to Port Jackfon, acrofs the land, and near the fea fhore, is, in a direct line, eight or nine miles; and the country about two miles to the fouthward of Port Jackfon abounds with high trees, and little or no underwood; but between that and Botany-Bay, it is all thick, low woods or fhrubberies, barren heaths, and fwamps; the land near the fea, although covered in many places with wood, is rocky from the water-fide to the very fummit of the hills. Whilft walking on fhore with the officers of the French fhips at Botany-Bay, I was fhewn by them a little mount upon the north ihore, which they had difcovered, and thought a curiofity; it was quite rocky on the top, the ftones were all (landing perpendicularly on their ends, and were in long, but narrow pieces; fome of three, four, or five fides, exactly (in miniature) re-fembling the Giants Caufeway in the north of Ireland. The Buffole and Aftrolabe failed from Botany-Bay the 11 th of March. As As I have mentioned fomething of the country between Botany-Bay and Port Jackfon, I muff farther obferve, that in the neighbourhood of Sydney Cove, which is that part of this harbour in which Governor Phillip has fixed his refidence, there are many fpots of tolerably good land, but they are in general of but fmall extent j exclufive of thofe particular fpots, it is rather a poor fteril foil, full of ftones; but near, and at the head of the harbour, there is a very confiderable extent of tolerable land, and which may be cultivated without waiting for its being cleared of wood ; for the trees ftand very wide of each other, and have no underwood : in fhort, the woods on the fpot I am fpeaking of refemble a deer park, as much as if they had been intended for fuch' a purpofe ; but the foil appears to me to be rather fandy and fhallow, and will require much manure to improve it, which is here a very .fearce article; however, there are people whofe judgment may probably be better than mine, that think it good land; I confefs that farming has never made any part of my fludies. The grafs upon it is about three feet high, very clofe and thick ; probably, farther back there may be very extenfive tracts of this kind of country, but we, as yet, had no time to make very diftant excurfions into the interior parts of this new world. On the 6th of May, three of the tranfports, which were chartered by the Eaft,-India Company to load tea at China, failed from this port; the Supply alfo failed for Lord Howe Iiland.. The carpenter of the Sirius, with his crew, had been conftantiy cm-ployed on fhore fince our'arrival in this country, afTi fling in erecting ftore-houfes, and other neceflary buildings. The (hip's company were Yarioully employed out of the fhip upon the bufinefs of the fettlement.' The The fcurvy had, for fome time pafl, appeared more amongft the feamen, marines, and convicts, than when on board the fhips, which will appear ltrange, after having enjoyed the advantage of being much upon the land, and eating various vegetable productions ; but this the gentlemen of the faculty fay is no uncommon thing, particularly when men are under the neceffity of continuing the fame fait diet; fetting afide this, and a few with dyfenteries, the health of the people cannot be faid to be bad. About the middle of this month a convalefcent, who had been fent from the hofpital to gather wild fpinach, or other greens, was murdered by the natives ; there were two of them together, the one efcaped, but was wounded, the other has never been heard of fince ; but as fome part of his cloaths were found which were bloody, and had been pierced by a fpear, it was concluded he had been killed. A fhort time after this accident, a report prevailed, that part of the bones of a man had been found near a fire by which a party of the natives had been regaling themfelves; this report gave rife to a conjecture, that as this man had been killed near this place, the people who had committed the murder had certainly ate him. Whether any of the natives of this country are cannibals is yet a matter on which we vannotfpeak pofitively; but the murder of two other men,as relatedimme-diatelyafter this, feems to contradict the conjecture that they are cannibals, as the men were left on the fpot where they were killed : however, the following circumflance may, in fome degree, incline us to believe, that although the natives in general do not eat human flefh, yet that that horrid cuflom is fometimes practifed. I was one day prefent when two native children were interrogated on the fubject of the quarrels of their countrymen ; they were particularly afked, what the different chiefs did with thofe they killed; they mentioned fome who burnt and buried the flain, !but they alfo particularly n^med one who ate thofe he killed. c Some Some fhort time after the before-mentioned accident happened, two ch convicts who had been employed at a little diftance up the harbour, in t— cutting rufhes for thatching, were found murdered by the natives. It 17 has been ftrongly fufpected that thefe people had engaged in fome dif-putc or quarrel with them, and as they had hatchets and bill-hooks with them, it is believed they might have been rafti enough to ufe violence with fome of the natives, who had, no doubt, been numerous there; be that as it might, the officer who went to look after thofe unfortunate men, and to fee what work they had done, after hailing fome time for them without any reply, fet his boat's crew upon the fearch, who, having found a confiderable quantity of blood near their tent, fufpected what they foon found to be the cafe : for they difcovered the two men immediately after, lying in different places, both dead 3 the one had his brains beat out with a club or ftone, bcfides feveral other wounds; the other had many wounds, and part of a fpear, which had been broke, flicking quite through his body. Their tent, provifions, and cloaths remained, but moft of the tools were taken away. The 4th of June being the birth-day of our much beloved fovereign, j and the firft we had feen in this moft diftant part of his dominions, it was celebrated by all ranks with every poffible demonftration of loyalty, and concluded with the utmoft chearfulncfs and good order. Having at this time of the year much bad weather, and very heavy gales of wind, I muft obferve, that I had, as well as many others, believed till now, that the gales had never blown upon the coaft in fuch. a direction, but that a fhip, on being clofe in with the land when fuch a gale commenced, might gain an offing 011 one tack or the other; but. we now found, that thofe gales are as variable in their direction upon this So A V O Y A G E T O CHAP, this coaft as any other during the winter feafon: I would, therefore, —r*—» recommend it to fhips bound to any port here to the fouthward of T788. latitude 300 00' fouth, at this time of the year to get in or near the parallel of their port, before they attempt to make the land; as in that cafe, if a gale from the eaftward fhould take them when near the land, they would have their port under their lee, for it would be next to an impofiibility for a fhip to keep off the land with fuch a fea as thefe gales occafion, July. In the month of July, our fcorbutic patients feemed to be rather worfe; the want cf a little frefh food for the fick was very much felt, and fifh at this time were very fcarce: fuch of the natives as we met feemed to be in a miferable and flarving condition from that fcarcity. We frequently fell in with families living in the hollow part of the rocks by the fea-fide, where they eagerly watched every opportunity of moderate weather to provide fhell or other fifh for their prefent fubfift-ence : if a bird was fhot, and thrown to them, they would immediately pluck off the feathers, put it upon the fire without taking out the intcflines, and eat the whole ; fometimes they did not pull off the feathers, and, if it were a fmall bird, did not even throw the bones away. This feafon, in which fifli is fo fcarce, fubjects thefe poor creatures to great diftrefs, at leaf! we were apt to believe fo j they were frequently found gathering a kind of root in fhe woods, which they broiled on the fire, then beat it between two floncs until it was quite foft; this they chew until they have extracted all the nutritive part, and afterwards throw it away. This root appears to be a fpecies of the orchis, or has much of its nutritive quality. Large fires were frequently feen in this feafon upon fome of the hills, and we had been much at a lofs to know for what nurpofe they were fo frequently lighted, at this time of the year; but in in going down the harbour one day, with an intention to get upon the chap. North Head, for the purpofe of ascertaining its exact latitude, we ob-ferved on a hill near that point, one of thofe large fires, which (with 1788, the firft lieutenant and furgcon who were with me) we determined to vifit; and as we thought it might probably be fome funeral ceremony, which we were very defirous of feeing, we took our guns, and intended getting up amongft them unperceived ; but when we arrived at the place, to our very great difappointment, not a perfon was to be feen : I believe there were not lefs than three or four acres of ground all in a blaze ; we then conjectured that thefe fires were made for the purpofe of clearing the ground of the fhrubs and underwood, by which means they might with greater eafe get at thofe roots which appear to be a great part of their fubfiftence during the winter. We had obferved that they generally took the advantage of windy weather for making fuch fires, which would of courfe occafion their (breading over a greater extent of ground. On the 14th of July four tranfports, under the command of Lieutenant July 14* Shortland, tailed for England ; they intended going to the northward, and palling through the ftreights of MacafTar and Sunda, the feafon being too early either to attempt going round Van Diemen's land, and to endeavour to get to the weftward by that tract, or to go to the eaftward by Cape Horn. The 12th of Auguft being the birth-day of His Royal Highnefs the Aujuft \z. Prince of Wales, a falute of 21 guns was fired from the Sirius and Supply, and the officers of the fettlement and fhips dined with ths governor, as on His Majefty's birth-day. M We CHAP. Wc began at this time to take equal altitudes for afcertaining the iii. v_v_i exact rate of the time-keeper. On the 17th, the governor directed two 1 "/SR. boats from the Sirius, with a proper officer in each, to eo up the har-bour j one to take the north, the other the fouth fide ; they were to enter every cove in their way up, in order to afcertain, as exactly as poflible, the number of canoes and natives within the harbour of Port Jackfon \ for the fame purpofe, two other boats went down the harbour ; in one of which the governor went, and I proceeded in the other j in the lower or north part of the harbour there was a confiderable number of canoes, fome of which were then employed in catching fifh. Upon my going round the coves, they all left their work and puflied with great precipitation for the land, which convinced me that they were women who were thus employed ; as they had always fhewn a defire, as much as pofTible, to avoid us. I did every thing in my power to prevent their being alarmed, or in any refpect uneafy, by keeping at a diftance from them, and making every friendly fignal I could, but to no purpofe; for although there was no other boat in company, they did not feem difpofed to truft us near them: there were many men upon the more, who fpoke to us in their ufual familiar and chearfui manner, and invited us with much apparent earneftnefs and friendfliip to come on fhore, which, however, I declined, in order to profecute the bufinefs I was engaged in ; although I own I thought the counting them from the boat was a very uncertain method of coming at their, numbers. It blew frefli, and there was fo much furf on fhore,. that it was impoffible to land where the people flood, without the danger of hurting the boat, otherwife it is probable that I, together with Lieutenant George John-llon, of the marines, who was in the boat with me,, fliould have landed: we went as near as poflible to the fhore, I believe within twenty yards, and whilft in friendly converfation with them, and lying 3. upon* upon our oars, we obferved one of them place his lance upon the throw-ing-ftick, but had no idea that he meant to throw it amongfl: us, after fo friendly an invitation as we had received from them to land : but 1 was now convinced, that they only wanted us within their reach, no doubt from an opinion that we had no fire arms, as they did not appear: as foon as they thought that they could throw it with effect, a lance was difcharged, which paffed about fix feet over our heads; I faw the lance in the air, and immediately fnatched up my gun, which, as they run off the moment they had fhewn their hoflile intention, I was determined to difcharge amongfl; them, and fhould probably have killed one of their number, if my gun had not miffed fire. Mr. Johnflon, upon my gun having miffed, immediately difcharged his into the bufhes in which they had fheltered themfelves from our fight; but as it was charged only with fmall fliot, I think it could not have hurt any of them : what reafon they could have had for this treacherous kind of conduct, I am wholly at a lofs to guefs, for nothing hoflile or mif-chievous had appeared on our part ; on the contrary, the moft friendly difpofition had been manifefted in every thing we faid or did ; even when their women took the alarm upon our approach, I fpoke to them, and made fuch figns of friendfhip as we judged they would underftand, and went round at a diftance to prevent their apprehenfion of any infult. It was perhaps fortunate that my gun did not go off; as I was fo dif-pleafed at their treachery, that it is highly probable I might have fliot one of them. On comparing the accounts, which were taken by the different boats employed upon this bufinefs, it appeared that we had feen—Canoes 67—men 94—women 34—children 9,—-which is by no means a juft account of the M 2 numbers C it a p. numbers who, at that time, lived in and about this harbour; for I have iii. t.. _> fince feen in one part of the harbour more than that number. 1788. Auguft 27. On the 27th, the Supply tender arrived from Norfolk Iiland, where flic had been with a quantity of provifions and flores for that fettlement j fhe brought the melancholy account of the lofs of Mr. James Cunningham, and four others, who were drowned in the furf, by their boat being overfct in landing the flores from the Supply; fo exceedingly difficult of accefs is the fhore of that ifland, from an almoft continual furf breaking on a reef which encompafles the coafl on that part where the fettlement is formed. In this month a report prevailed in the fettlement, which feemed at firft to gain fome credit:—It was, that one Daifey, a convict, had difcovered a piece of ground, wherein he had found a confiderable quantity of a yellow coloured ore, which, upon its being tried, appeared to have a certain proportion of gold in it; at this time the governor happened to be abfeht on a fhort excurfion into the country, to the northward : the report having been made to the lieutenant-governor, he, of courfc, examined the man, who had made the difcovery, and who told his flory with fo much plaufibility, that it was not doubted but an ore of fome kind had been found. Dailey was interrogated as to the place, but this he refufed to give any. information of until the return of the governor, to whom he would give a full account of the difcovery, provided he would grant him what the difcoverer confidered as but a fmall compen-fation for fo valuable an.acquifition ;*this reward was, (as there were fhips upon the point of failing) his own and a particular woman convict's enlargement, and a pari age in one of the fhips to England, together with a fpccified fum of money, which I do not now recollect. The lieutenant-governor NEW SOUTH WALES. 85 governor infifted, that as he had already mentioned the difcovery he had ch a p. made, he mould alfo fhew what part of the country it was in, other- <- wife he might expect punifhment, for daring to impofe upon thofe 1788. officers to whom he had related this bufinefs: the fear of punifhment difpofed him to incline a little, though apparently with much reluctance ; he propofed to the lieutenant-governor, that an officer mould be fent down the harbour with him, for the mine, which, he faid, was in the lower part of the harbour, and near the fea fhore, and he would fhew the place to the officer : accordingly, an officer, with a corporal and two or three private foldiers were fent with him; he landed where he faid the walk would be but fhort, and they entered the wood in their way to the mine foon after they got among the buihes, he applied for permiiTion to go to one fide for a minute upon fome neceflary occafion, which was granted him ; the officer continued there fome hours without feeing the difcovcrer again, who, immediately on getting out of his fight, had pufhed off for the camp by land, for he knew the road very well, and he had cunning enough to perfuade the officer to fend the boat away as foon as they had landed, as he fuppofed he would not choofe to quit the place until a good guard came down ; for which purpofe, the officer was to have difpatched a man by land, as foon as he arrived at the place, and was fuisfied that it merited attention. The convict arrived in camp pretty early in the afternoon, and informed the lieutenant-governor, that he had left the officer who went down with him in full poffeffion of the gold mine , he then got a few things out of his own tent, and difappearcd; the party, after waiting for fome hours hooping and fearching through the woods for the cheat, left their flations and marched round to the camp, where they arrived at dufk, heartily tired, and not a little chagrined at the trick the villain had played them. The want of provifions foon brought him from his con-3 cealment, cealment, and a ievtre punifhment was the necelTary confequence of this impofition : however, he frill gave out, that he had made the difcovery which he before had mentioned, and that his reafons for quitting the officer who went with him was, that he thought, if he gave the information to the governor himfelf, he mould certainly get what he had afked. When the governor returned, another officer was fent with him, although every perfon now believed that there was no truth in what he had hitherto reported. This officer informed him, in going down in the boat, that he would not fuffer him to go three yards from him when landed, and that he would certainly (hoot him if he attempted to run from him; for which purpofe he fliewed him, that he was loading his gun with ball: this fo terrified the cheat, that he acknowledged lie knew of no gold mine. He was then interrogated refpe&ing the ore which he had produced, and he confefled he had filed down part of a yellow metal buckle, and had mixed with it fome gold filed off a guinea, all which had been blended with fome earth, and made hard. The man who tried the ore was bred a filverfmith, and upon feparating the different parts, he difcovered that it contained a fmall quantity of gold : the inventor was*, of courfe, well punifhed for his trick. The obfervations which I made here, both for the latitude and longitude, as well as thofe that were made by Lieutenant Bradley, were the fame as are inferted in the following tables. Observations Observations for the Longitude, made in Port Jackson, by John Hunter. Different lnftru-ment. Different inftr. Different Inftr. Different Inftr. Time when M Longitude de- What Objeds. o g z termined eaft of Meridian of Latitudes obferved, &c. &c Q Greenwich. March 0 On the North Head, Latitude 330 49' 20" S. On the South Head, Latitude 330 51' 08" 14 O & 8 15I 08 00 18 J> & * Aldebaran 8 J5i 19 3° 27 O & 3) 8 *5r °3 00 Mean Latitude, Entrance of \ 0 , „ the Harbour - - j 33 5° 14 O & J) 8 151 32 00 28 0 & D 12 l5l lZ 00 On Point Maikelinc, Sydney-"! 0 , Cove - - - j 33 51 5° 0 & D 12 f5i 11 00 April 10 0 ck 1 Regulus 8 »5i 18 00 Variation of the Compafs 8° 30' E. Tide, full and change, 8h 15' 1) & * 9 151 3« 00 11 0 & 3) 10 151 26 00 Riles between fix and ("even feet. J5 » & * Spica 8 i5' 34 00 Longitude of the Entrance of the Harbour, D & * Aldcbaran 8 151 38 00 deduced from thefe Obfervations, will be 25 O & J) 10 150 58 40 151" 25' 00" E. 26 O & D 8 49 00 27 O & D 10 04 00 N. R. The Obfervations for the Longitude 28 0 ik 5 10 10 00 were taken on board the fhip, lying off the 0 & D 5 150 5« 5° entrance of Sydney-Cove, and the Altitudes 0 & D 5 «5i 40 00 were computed. '47 151 19 <;8 Mean of the above Obfervations for the Lung. Observations Observations for the Longitude, made in Port Jackson, by Lieutenant William Bradley, in 1788. Time when (A r. , OJ 3 C Long itudc deter- What Objeds. mined . Meridian Latitudes obferved. 55 S of Greenwich. Q March 0 *5 O & D 12 33 30 E. North Head, - - 330 49' South Head, - - 330 50' Mean Latitudes of the En-7 0 20" S. 18 D j) * Ahlebaran * Spica 12 3 j. 151 32 00 43" 19 D D & * Pollux * Spica 12 3 J 151 IO 52 trance of the Harbour, \ 33 5° oi" S. 27 O & i) 1 2 08 00 28 O & D 12 *5i 26 52 0 & 5 12 '5* 09 00 0 & D 6 22 00 . 29 I» 0 & & * Antarcs 9 12 6 }«■ 09 °7 - 3° 0 & D 3 46 3° April 11 0 & I) 6 25 D * Regulus 3 10 25 D * Antarcs 10 0 & D 5 *9 51 26 G & D 6 11 3° O & 3) 10 '51 2? '5 27 & ]) 10 18 45 0 & 3) 10 151 23 37 *5J 20 53 K- Mean Longitude. The Mean of Mr. Bradley's and my Obfervations gives Port Jackfon in Latitude - _ . . . 33« 5o' 08" South. Longitude - - ,51° 25' 25" Eaft of the Meridian of Greenwich. CHAPTER CHAPTER IV. The Sirius leaves Port Jack/on.—Sails for the Cape of Good Hope, by the Eajlern Pafldge.—Falls in with many large iflands of ice.—Cafls anchor at Robin's Ifland.—Tables of the winds, weather, &c. T N the month of September, Governor Phillip iigrrined to me, that it was his intention very foon to difpatch the Sirius to the Cape of v Good Hope, in order to purchafe fuch quantity of provifions as fhe might be capable of taking on board.; and that fhe might be made as light as poflible for that purpofe, he defired I would land eight or ten of her guns and carriages, with any other articles which I judged the fhip could fpare, for the time fhe might be abfent, and which might anfwer the purpofe of lightening the fhip and the making of room. In confequence of this order, eight guns, with their carriages, and 24 rounds of mot for each gun, 20 half barrels of powder, a fpare anchor, and various other articles, were put on more at Sydney-cove : he alfo directed that I mould leave the (hip's long-boat behind for the ufe of the fettlement : this order I confefs I with reluttance obeyed, as the want of fuch a boat has often been very feverely felt; at the fame time I was defired to endeavour, on my arrival at the Cape, to purchafe fuch a boat for the fettlement; and that written directions for that and other pur-pofes would be given me, when I received my final inltrudtions. Whilft: upon this fubject, I thought it a proper opportunity to reprefent, that N the chap, the Sirius was (except in the carpenter's department,) perfectly ready for K_^_; fea ; but the carpenter's crew, together with the carpenter of the (hip 17s8. himfelf, having all been employed conftantly on the bufinefs of the fettlement, fince our arrival in this country, the (hip had, in confequence, been much neglected in that department ; and as (he was foon to go to fea, it was highly neceflary that thofe people (hould be immediately fent on board to prepare her for a voyage. We had, it is true, (upon my reprefenting the abfolute neceflity of having the (hip's decks and fides caulked,) employed an old man, the carpenter's yeoman, and a convict caulker, upon the weather work of the (hip; but that work, we had afterwards reafon to know, had not been fo well executed as it might have been, had the carpenter of the fhip been permitted to flay on board and attend fo neceflary,a duty, Sept. 30, On Tuefday the 30th of September, I received my final orders, and Oftoben, on Wednefday the id of October, unmoored the (hip; the governor and his family dined on board, and the wind being eafterly, we got under weigh and worked down to the lower anchorage, where we came to, intending to take advantage of the land wind in the morning to put to fea. The Golden Grove itore-fhip alfo came down and anchored below, having on board provifions and other {lores, for Norfolk Iiland ; {he had alfo on board a number of men and women convicts for that ifland; I think twenty men and twelve women, together with fix marines and three feamen from the Sirius. In the evening, the governor and the other gentlemen who were with him took their leave, and early in the morn-Oflobcr 2, ing of the 2d, with the wind at fouth-weft, we failed out of the harbour. As CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. gl As I have not at any time, when fpeaking of this harbour, given any chap, defcription of it, or any directions for failing into it, I will take this \ ^'^^ opportunity. 1788. The entrance of the harbour of Port Jackfon has nothing in its appearance, when fix leagues from the land, by which it may be known; your latitude will be your moft infallible guide to this harbour, or indeed to any other upon this coafl. Steer in for the land, which here lies about north by eaft half eaft and fouth by weft half weft; keep as near as you can in latitude 330 50' fouth , the entrance, when you come near, will fhew itfelf, by the heads on each fide, which are high, fteep, perpendicular cliffs, of a light reddifh colour; a ihip bound in here, may run in without fear between the heads, which are diftant from each other one mile and three quarters j there is nothing in the way, and the fhore pretty fteep to on each fide j the fea breaking, which it does even in fine weather, will ihew any rocks which may lie near under the fhore. Steer in between the heads for a high bluff point, which is called Middle Cape or Head, and is fteep to, until you open to the fouthward of you a very extenfive arm of the harbour. If the wind be fufficiently large to run up this branch, (which lies by compafs fouth-weft by fouth) on either fhore, haul round the eaft-moft point of this arm, which is called the Inner or South Head j it is a low rocky point; give it a birth of two-thirds of a cable, and fteer right in for the firft fandy cove above it, on the fame fide, called Camp Cove j keep at a convenient, but fmall diftance from the fhore, in three and a half and four fathoms, and obferve, that right off this cove, and near mid-channel, lies a patch of rocks, which appear at half-tide ; the fhoaling toward them is gradual all round, upon a fmooth fandy bottom; it is rocky only about half a cable's length from the dry part; you may keep near the upper point of N2 ' Camp Camp Cove, in fix and feven fathoms, and from thence fleer directly up / the harbour. If you intend to go on the weft fhore, and to leave this patch of rocks to the eaflward of you, fleer in as before for Middle Head, and when within a cable's length of it, fleer up for the next point above it, on the fame fide, obferving not to make too free with that point, as it is rocky fomething more than half a cable's length off. In this channel, which is much the befl, being rather broader than the eaflern channel, you will have four, four and a half, and five fathoms. When you are above this fecond point, on the weft fhore, you may take what part of the channel you pleafe, or anchor wherever you wifh, there being nothing in the way from fhore to fhore. The chart will certainly be the beft guide in going in. If the wind mould be foutherly, a ftranger would not venture to work up, but he might anchor with fafety in the north part of the harbour, which he will perceive by the chart, to which I would refer him, rather than to a written defcription *. We were no fooner clear of the harbour, than the wind veered more to the fouthward, and began to blow ftrong, with thick, hazy, and dirty weather; and, what gave me privately a good deal of concern, the carpenter reported, that the fhip, which had hitherto been very tight, now made water. This piece of information, with fuch a voyage as the Sirius was now entered upon, was no doubt very unwelcome; and more particularly fo, when it was confidered, that the fhip's company, from having been long upon fait dkt, without the advantage of any fort of vegetables, were not fb healthy and ftrong as a leaky fhip might * For an accurate furvey of this harbour, fee a Chart of Port Jackfon, by Captain Hunter, in Phillip's Voyage, 4to. Edition. require. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, g require. I had often obferved, that when this voyage, upon which chap, we were now entered, was the fubject of converfation, in company with w^--. the governor, he always fpoke in favour of the palfage round Van Die- 1788. men's land, and to the weftward; but when I fignified a wifh that he would direct by what route I fhould endeavour to perform the voyage, he declined that; and faid that I fhould be governed by circumftances, and that he fhould leave it to my difcretion and judgment; at the fame time exprefling his opinion ftrongly in favour of the weftern route; which I confefs I was a little furprifed at, as it had never yet been attempted, not even by fhips employed in that kind of fervice which leaves it in their power to make experiments. I do not fay that the paffage from Van Diemen's land to the Cape of Good Hope, by the weftward, is impracticable, as that remains yet to be tried ; but from my own experience of the prevalence of ftrong wefterly winds acrofs that vaft ocean, I am inclined to think it muft be a long and tedious voyage; and at the fame time fo very uncertain, that the time for which the Sirius was victualled, (for four months, and of fome articles not more than two weeks, for the number of men on board; having left a confiderable quantity of our provifion for the ufe of the fettlement,) and the nature of the fervice fhe was going upon, which was no doubt of con* fiderable confequence to the colony, was not an opportunity for trying fuch an experiment; as the confequence of a difappointment would have been, that I muft have returned again to Port Jackfon for a frefh fupply of provifions, and the feafon for another paffage would have been too far advanced. I therefore determined, judging from the experience of thofe who had before made the eaftern paffage, to pafs to the fouthward of New Zealand and round Cape Horn. We 94 AVOYAGETOTHE CHAP* We ftood off to the eaftward, determined as early as poflible to get v-—jan ofling of fifty or fixty leagues; the wind continued to the fouthward^ 1788. with the fame hazy and fqually weather, until the 5th, when it fhifted October c. to fouth-fouth-eait; by this time we were about 70 leagues from the coaft, which enabled us to tack and ftand to the fouth-weft : with this change of wind from the fouth-weft to the fouth-eaft quarter, the fame fqually and unfettled weather continued. The fhip upon the larboard tack made much more water than on the (larboard, fo much as to render it neceflary to pump her every two hours, to prevent too long a fpell; (lie made in general from ten to twelve inches in two hours. There was reafon to conjecture, from this difference on the oppofite tacks, that the leak was fomewhere about the (larboard bow, and near the furface of the water, and if it proved fo, I had a hope that we might, the firft moderate weather, with fmooth water, be able to come at and flop it. I was the more fmguine in this expectation, as the carpenter, in a few days after, difcovered it to be under the after part of the fore-channel, a little below the furface of the water; and feemed to think it proceeded from one of the butt-bolts being corroded by the copper, which I now imderftood had never been taken off iince the (hip's being oa0ber6. firft (heathed, which was now more than eight years. On the 6th, the weather cleared up, and both Mr. Bradley and myfelf had a few dif-tances of the o and D, by which our longitude was 1570 10' eaft, by the time-keeper 156" 55' eaft, and by account 156' 17' eaft; the latitude 34^49' fouth; variation per Azimuth ii°4o'eaft. At noon, the wind got round to eaft and eaft by north, with which I (leered fouth-fouth-eaft ; ftill favouring our endeavours to get to the fouthward; it next came to north-eaft and north, and in latitude 400 33' fouth, it came to north-weft, but the weather ftill continued fqually and unfettled. As the weather began now to be rather cold, and as in the track I meant 2 to to profecute my voyage by I might expect: to have it confidently colder, chap, and consequently the (hip's company would require a fhift of cloathing, ^—^1^, flops were ferved to all who flood in need of them. On the Qth, we 1788. 1 October 9, were near as far to the fouthward as Van Diemen's Land, or South Cape of New Holland , and the wind being apparently fettled in the fouth-weft quarter, I fteered a courfe for the fouth cape of New Zealand. From Port Jackfon to Van Diemen's Land we had run parallel to the coaft, at the diftance of 60 leagues from it, and have not feen any thing; fo that we may venture to fay, that there are no iflands lie off that part of the coaft, at the above diftance from it. On the afternoon of this day (9th) we had feveral good fetts of diftances of the o and J, by which our longitude was 1570 26' eaft, by the time-keeper 157° 19' eaft, and by account 1570 48' eaft ; the latitude 430 30' fouth ; the thermometer was now 570. On the 12th, we pafled the fouth I2th*. cape of New Zealand, but the weather being very hazy and fqually, we did not attempt to make it, but kept a degree and a half to the fouthward of it; here we met with vaft numbers of birds of various kinds, moftly aquatic, fuch as albatrofles, pentada birds, divers, peterels, and a variety of gulls; fome of a kind I had not before feen during the voyage, very large, of a dark brown or moufe colour ; and another fort not quite fo large, with a white body, dark wings, and the head of a light blue or lead colour: much fea-weed was alfo feen here in very large patches. We now had the wind frelh from the north-weft quarter, with frequent fqualls, attended with rain, and the weather cold. We found the variation of the compafs 40 leagues fouth-fouth-eaft from the fouth cape of New Zealand, to be 160 54' eaft. Mr. Worgan, the furgeon, having recommended the efTence of malt to be ferved at this time to the (hip's company, a certain quantity of wort was made every morning, and a pint ferved to each man. On chap. On the i Cth, by an obfervation of the moon's diftance from the ftar iv. . s---' aquila, our longitude was 171° 16' eaft, the latitude was 500 45' fouth, Oclobcr'15 an(^ ^C var*at*on °^ ^e comPafs 160 20' eaft; longitude by the timekeeper 1710 32' eaft, and by account 1720 ioy eaft. From this time to the 22d, we had light and variable winds, fometimes from the fouth and fouth-eaft, and fometimes from the northward, with moift and 22dt hazy weather. On the 22d, the wind inclined from the weftward, and the weather became fair; we had this day a fet of diftances of the o and t>, which gave our longitude 1820 46'eaft, the time-keeper 182* 37' eaft, and the account 1840 10' eaft; the latitude 510 03' fouth ; the variation was now 130 45' eaft, and the thermometer 48*. For three fucceffive days we had lunar obfervations, by which it appeared that the reckoning a few days before had been more than a degree and a half to the eaftward of the obfervations and time-keeper) but by our laft z6th. diftances of the g and p (26th) the fhip was gaining on the account; thefe differences feem wholly to proceed from the fea, occafioned by the prevailing winds for the time ; the eafterly variation was decreafing, being now only ii° oo'eaft, in latitude 520 42" fouth, and longitude 196° 1i' eaft. We now very frequently heard the divers in the night, and as often faw them in the day; it is really wonderful how thefe birds .get from or to the land, at fuch an immenfe diftance from it as from 800 to 1000 leagues : they undoubtedly lay their eggs, and hatch them on fhore, and yet we plainly perceived that thofe we met were of the penguin kind, and could not fly : from the flow progrefs fuch a bird can make in the water, it might be fuppofed that it would take them many years (were itiftinct to point out the direcl: and fhorteft courfe for them) before they could poffibly reach any land, unlefs there are iflands in thefe feas, and not far from our track, which have not yet been difcovered. I endeavoured, in failing from New Zealand to Cape Horn, to to keep as much as poflible in a parallel between the tracks of the Re- chap Solution and Adventure; fo that if any ifland lay between the parallels k^JZ^ in which thefe fhips failed, we might have a chance of falling in with «7«6. them. We have had very variable weather for fome days pafl, with equally variable winds, and a confufed jumble of a fea, which the very frequent fhifting of the wind occafioned. On the 2d of November, by a lunar obfervation, we were in longi- November tude 214° 27' eaft ; the time-keeper gave 214° 19' eaft, and by account 2130 02' eaft j the latitude 550 18' fouth, the variation was here n° 00' eaft, and the height of the thermometer was 50°, From the 2d to the 6 th, we had the winds from north by weft to north-north-eaft : 6th, on the 6th and 7th, we had very good obfervations for the longitude by the o and » , the former gave 2230 57' eaft, and the latter 227' 58/ eaft ; the longitude by account was 2260 20' eaft, the latitude 560 12' fouth: the variation increased again, being in this fituation 120 20' eaft, thermometer 460. From the 7th until the 17th, the weather was very 7th—i?t variable, and the wind verv unfettled, between the fouth-eaft and fouth-weft quarters, attended with ftrong gales and dark hazy weather, with frequent fhowers of mow and hail; the thermometer was down at 42" in the cabin, where we fometimes had a fire, but in the open air it was at 3501 the fhowers were commonly accompanied with heavy gufts or fqualls of wind. Notwithstanding we were, with thefe winds from the ■fouthward, fubjeel to fnow and hail, yet we frequently found that fome of the gales which had blown from the northward were attended with a more piercing degree of cold. On the 18th, the weather became r-8th, more moderate and fair, and the wind fliiftcd to weft, with a moderate breeze: we were now in longitude 2610 5c'eaft, and latitude 55° 23' fouth, and had 140 4.3' eaft variation. On the 19th, we found that the «9th- O variation chap, variation had increafed, in a run to the eaftward of 25 leagues, to 17* \__v--1 oc/ eaft. On the 22d, we had feveral good diftances of the o and j -go , Nor, aid. and found our longitude to be at noon 280° 22? eaft, by the timekeeper 281° 08' eaft, and by account 28 30 09' eaft; the latitude was 570 15' fouth; the variation of the compafs increafed very faft as we approached Cape Horn, being now 20° 30' eaft; and on the next day 23d- (23d) 22° 30' eaft ; but a table of the variation will be inferted at the end of the chapter, where it will appear at one view. Wc now very frequently fell in with high iflands of ice. On the 24th. 24th, we had frefli gales with hazy and cold weather, and met fo many ice iflands, that we were frequently obliged to alter our courfc to avoid them. On the 25th, we had ftrong gales with very heavy and frequent fqualls : as wc were now drawing near Cape Horn, and in all the charts of Terra del Fuego which I had feen, there is an ifland laid down, bearing from the Cape about fouth-fouth-weft, and called Diego Ramirez, diftant from the land ten or twelve leagues; and as I do not find that the exiftence of fuch an ifland has ever been contradicted by any perfon who has failed round this promontory, I determined to keep as near as poflible in its parallel, the wind being from weft-north-weft to weft-fouth-weft, and the weather rather hazy; if I fhould make it, I could pafs cither within or without, as might be convenient ; and it would be as good a land-fall as the Cape itfelf, as, in cafe the wind ihould incline to the fouthward, we fhould have offing enough to clear the land, which, to us who were upon a fervice that would not admit of ?6tli. any lofs of time, was of confequence. At noon on the 26th,' we had a good meridian obfervation, and were exactly in the parallel of Diego Ramirez ; and at eight A. M. an opportunity offered, for about an hour, for taking a fet of diftances of the o and D, of which both Mr, Mr. Bradley and myfelf availed ourfelves; the refult of which was chap. . iv. (taking the mean of both obfervations, which agreed within a few c—^L^, miles) 292" 38' eaft, at the time of obfervation; fo that we muft then 1788. have been very near the place in which this iiland is laid down, for we could rely upon the obfervations: but as nothing appeared, we hauled in for the land, the looming of which we frequently faw, but the heavy black fqualls which were conftantly gathering upon it, rendered it too indiftinct to be able to determine any particular point : at this time feveral long firings of wild ducks flew paft the fhip : in the evening the weather cleared a little in the horizon, and we fet the extremes of Terra del Fuego from north by weft to weft-north-weft, diftant about 10 leagues. We continued our courfe north-eaft, and I think we may fafely venture to determine, that there is no iiland fo fituatcd from Cape Horn as this Diego Ramirez is faid to be. For feveral days before we made the land, and every day after we left it, until the 27th, we fell in with a great number of very high ice Nov. 27. iflands. Here alfo we met with divers and feals. We had got but a very fmall diftance to the eaftward of the cape, when the winds inclined to the northward, and from that to the north-eaft, and blew a frefh gale. From the 27th of November until the 12th of December, we Dec. 12, had the wind conftantly in the north-eaft quarter, which I believe to be rather uncommon near Cape Horn for fuch a length of time ; as fhips in general, that are bound into the fouth fea, find it rather tedious getting to the weftward round this cape. The fhip's company now began to fhew much diipofition to the fcurvy, and what made it more diftrefling, we had nothing in the fhip with which we could hope to check the progrefs of that deftruclive dif- O 2 cafe, t°o AVOYAGETOTHE chap, eafe, except a little effence of malt, that we continued to ferve to the v—j /hip's company. We had only to hope for a fpeedy paffage to the Cape '788. 0f Good Hope, where we fhould, without a doubt, with the good things which were to be had there, be able to re-inflate their health perfectly : I was fo far from being furprifed at this appearance of the fcurvy amongfl the company of the Sirius, fo foon after leaving her port, that it was with me rather a matter of wonder that it had not fhewn itfelf fooner and fo it muft be with every perfon who confiders how they had lived fince we left the Cape outward bound; during that time (about 13 or 14 months) they had not tafted a bit of frefli provifions of any kind, nor had they touched a Angle blade of vegetables. We began now to be fubject to hazy moift weather, with frequent very thick fogs; the latitude 550 30' fouth, and longitude 3060 oo' eaft; the weather was very cold, and very high iflands of ice were feen in every quarter, fome of a prodigious fize : for fourteen days after we got to the eaftward of Cape Horn, we were beating to the north-eaft, anxious to get fo far to the northward as to feel the influence of the liimmer fun, by which it was to be hoped and expected our fcorbutic patients might be much relieved. In latitude 52° 30' fouth, and longitude 31 S° 20' eaft, the wind inclined to the fouthward of eaft, with hazy moift weather, and we fteered to the north-eaft. We found many large whales here; they feemed to go in droves of from five and fix to fifteen and twenty together, fpouting within a cable's length of the fhip, and fometimes fo near that it would have been no difficult matter to harpoon them from the fore part of the fhip as they parted under the Dec 12. bows. On the 1 2th of December, Henry Fits-Gerald, afeaman, departed this life ; he was troubled with a difeafe in his lungs, but the 13th. fcurvy was his principal malady. On the 13th, in the morning, we patted patted one of the large!! ice-iflands we had feen ; we judged it not lefs chat. than three miles in length, and its perpendicular height we fuppofed to « JV' r be 350 feet. 1788. In latitude 510 33' fouth, and longitude 32 T 00' can:, the wind feemed fet in at fouth-weft, and blew a frefh fteady gale, frequently attended with mowers of fnow or hail; the variation of the compafs decreafed faff, as will appear in the table annexed. On the 16th the wind fhifted Dec. \6, fnddenly to the north-weft quarter, and blew a fteady gale. On the 19th, it blew very ftrong from weft-north-weft, with hazy weather, 19th, and frequent fhowers of rain, which again changed the wind to the fouth-weft quarter, and the weather, as ufual upon thofe changes, became fair and pleafant. We now feemed to have got out from among the ice-iflands, with which, from South Georgia to the latitude of 46" fouth, this ocean feems at this feafon of the year to be overfpread. In latitude 44° 00' fouth, we faw the Iaft piece of ice, and in the whole, we had been twenty-eight days among the ice, and failed a diftance of 800 leagues. We had run for feveral days together, at the rate of from 50 to 60 leagues in the 24 hours, in a north-eaft direction ; and had palled through a lane or ftreet, if it may be fo called, of ice-iflands, the whole of that diftance : in general they were from the fize of a country church, to the magnitude of one, two and three miles in circumference, and proportionally high. Were it not that at this feafon of the year we had in fuch high latitudes very fhort nights,, and fcarcely an hour which could be called dark; it would certainly be attended with confide able danger to run in the night, the ice iflands were in fuch V£t& numbers; indeed, we feldom failed more than three or four mile?* without having feveral upon each beam. I think the direction, in which thofe pieces of ice feemed to have been driven, is a ftrong proof of the prevalence of fouth- fouth-weft winds in this part of the ocean. It is highly probable that they had been formed upon the coaft of South - Georgia and Sandwich Land, and feparated from the ground early in the fpring, or probably in a gale of wind during the winter. Many of them were half black, apparently with earth from the kind to which they had adhered, or elfe, with mud from the bottom on which they had lain : for it is well known, that ice-iflands, after having been driven about at fea for a length of time, become fo light and fpungy in that part which has been immerfed in the water, that the upper part becomes heavier, and thereby they frequently ovcrfet, and may, by fuch a change, fhew fome part of the ground on which they had relied. Others had large and dirtinc* portions of them thoroughly tinged with a beautiful fea-green, or bright verdi-greafe colour. In latitude 450 30' fouth, and longitude 342° 00' eaft, the variation of the compafs, which had decreafed very gradually, was only oo° 4' eaft. We carried on ftrong wefterly winds with us, which amply compensated for the northerly and eafterly gales which detained us fo long between Cape Horn and South Georgia; and it was exceedingly fortunate for us that we were fo favoured by the winds, for the fhip's company were falling down very faft with the fcurvy ; and as I have already obferved, we had nothing on board with which we could hope to check its progrefs, much lefs to cure it. Nothing certainly can promife fo fair to effect fo defireable a purpofe, as carrying a good ftock of various vegetable acids in every (hip, but particularly in fnips employed upon fuch fervices ab the Sirius was. The elexir of vitriol, hitherto allowed, and formerly conjidered, not only as a preventive, but as a cure, was found by no means to aniwev the purpofe of the former, far lefs of the latter. The vegetable acids, which might be provided for the ufe of fhips upon 5 lonS Jong voyages, I apprehend would be found to occafion a very fmall ad- chap. ditional expence, if any ; and I am convinced in the end would be found v -v'„ a confiderable faving. 1788. Having on the 25th of December arrived upon the meridian of Dec. 25, Greenwich, from which wc had failed in an eafterly diredion, and completed 3600 of eaft longitude, and confequently gained 24 hours, I dropt 360° and repeated, Thurfday, 25th December. On the 30th, 30th, John Shine, a feaman, died of the fcurvy. On the 31ft, I had a few 31ft, fets of diftances of the O and D, by which our longitude at noon was 170 16' eaft; by Mr. Bradley, it was 160 58' eaft; the mean of both gave ty" 07' eaft, and by the time-keeper it was 180 10' eaft; and we had not yet made the land; the latitude was 33° 48' fouth. This was a proof that the time-keeper muft have altered its rate fince we left Port Jackfon; we had then determined it to be loling 4"-7/. This change of its rate, fince we left Port Jackfon, I had fome time fufpected, and attributed it to the effects of the weather we had off, and near, Cape Horn. This evening we made a fhort trip off till midnight, when we tacked and ftood for the land again : Jofeph Caldwell, a feaman, died of the fcurvy. At day-light we faw the land; the neareft, or that part which we were a-breaft of, was diftant about four leagues, and the Table Mountain bore fouth by eaft about nine or ten leagues; the wind, mime laft twenty-four hours, had been ftrong from the fouthward, and we had, occafioned by there being too much of it, fallen to leeward. Nothing could have been more correct than our obfervations for the longitude. The wind coming from the fea, wc ftood along more to the fouthward, and in the afternoon were a-breaft of Robin's Ifland, but January could not fetch round the reef, and into Table Bay. The weakly con- 17891 dition of that part of the fliip's company, who were able to do duty upon CHAP, upon deck, and the very dejected (late of thofe who were confined to k__v~—r their beds, determined me, if poflible, to bring the fhip to an anchor *789. before night; as the very idea of being in port, fometimes has an exceeding good effect upon the fpirits of people who are reduced low by the fcurvy; which was the cafe with a great many of our fhip's company ; and indeed, a confiderable number were in the lait itage of it. After endeavouring in vain to weather the reef off the fouth end of the ifland, I bore away, and ran round the north end, and anchored within, right off the flag-ftaff and landing-place, in nine fathoms water, coarfe ground; the flag-ftaff bearing weft, and the fouth end of the ifland, jufl on with the Lyon's Rump. A TABLE A TABLE of the Winds and Weather, Sec. &c. on a Paffage from the Coaft of New South Wales to the Cape of Good Hope (by the Route of Cape Horn) in His Majefty's Ship Sirius, in the Months of October, November, and December, 1788. Year, Month, and Day. 1788. oaob. 3 4 5 6 7 9 10 11 12 "3 *4 l5 16 l7 18 South. o / 34 23 34 50 34 49 35 23 37 40 +° 33 43 34 44 25 45 36 47 44 49 15 50 29 51 05 51 06 5° 54 ° 18 [82 41 22 51 06 182 54 ' -3 5i 3° 186 49 24 5 2 00 190 °5 25 5 2 19 192 26 26 52 42 r95 25 27 53 04 198 31 28 — ^3 19 200 39 29 53 36 203 '9 3° 53 36 204 25 3T 54 09 206 11 Nov. 1 54 58 18 208 18 2 55 211 53 3 55 22 218 47 4 55 3^ 221 33 5 55 4; 224 46 6 56 10 "7 03 7 $6 24 J 229 00 8 55 & . 229 07 9 55 3' I 2J2 32 10 55 5' 2 236 46 11 55 5 2 24I 58 12 55 5 ] 247 24 *3 55 1 * 252 39 Winds. E. S. E. S. E. S. by E. . Variable. N. E. N. E. ) Variable. J N. W. to > s. w. ; w. s. w. w. s. w. > Weil. j 5 W. N. W. ) I Weft. f j N. N. W. ) 1 W. N. W f ) W. N. W. ) I to W.S. W.J s. w. f W. S. W. ) I Variable. C j Weft to \ N. E North. N. N. W. North. N. N. E. North. N. N. E. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. Eaft. S. E. by S S. S. E. South. w. s. w. > Weft. J s. w. South. 'S. W. to 1 W. N. W. I S. W. by W. §§ ' 9 w. £s - < Day 47 21 471 22 49 23 48 24 48 25 471 26 54i 27 53 28 54 29 54 30 54 i 53 2 53i 3 51 4 5° 5 5° 6 491 7 48 8 47i 9 46 10 46 1 1 46 I 2 49: '3 441 M 5* *5 46 16 Weather, &c. &c. 9 Light breezes and hazy. 9 Light breezes and cloudy, 7 Light airs and cloudy. Moderate and cloudy. 7 Frefli breezes and cloudy. 5 Frefli breezes and cloudy. 6 Moderate and hazy. Moderate and cloudy. 6 Ditto. 8 Light airs and hazy. f P. M. moderate breezes and thick fog I A. M. hazy with rain. Light airs, thick, and hazy, with fmall rain. Light breezes and hazy. 10 Frefli breezes and hazy. loP. M. moderate and hazy. A. M. clear. 10 Freih breezes and hazy. 10 Moderate and cloudy, ic Frefli breezes and clear. Moderate and clear. Strong gales and cloudy. 9 Frelh gales and hazy, with rain. J P. M. frefli gales and hazy. A. M. ftrong ( gales with fmall rain. ?P. M. ftrong gales and fqually. A.M. ) moderate and hazy. (P.M. frefli breezes and drizzling rain. < A. M. ftrong gales and fqually, with ( fnow and hail. ° Frefli gales, thick and hazy. Firft and latter parts ditto. Middle, ftrong j*alcs and finally with iain. i c 10 10 Nov. 14, Year Month, and Day. 1788. Nov. 14 l5 16 l7 18 l9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 .29 3° Dec. 1 2 3 4 South. 54 52254 01 54 23 54 55 55 <6 57 57 57 57 56 55 55 54 53 54 55 55 55 54 56 31 3C 44 52 59 54 4C °/ *9 3C 54 Longitude in Eaft. 256 35 49 261 04 16 264 42 38 266 30 36 269 37 27l 44 276 5 15280 22 07' 284 44 287 54 292 53 296 03 297 26 298 24 298 50 299 14 300 37 304 13 305 59 3°6 35 Winds. [ S. W. ) \ S.S.E. [ I Variable. ) f E. S. E. > } to S. S. W. f s. s. w. S S. W. to S. S. E. Welt. S. w. 5 s. w. I w. s. w. I W. N. W. J } W. S. W. J j S. W. to I {N.W.byW.J j N. W. > I North. j" j N. N. E. I I W. N. W, ; W. S. VV. . Weft. 7 i N. W. [> I North. ^ J N. N. E. I \ N. E. \ Eaft. ) Variable. J J E. N. E. i ^ Variable. Eafterly. Variable. N. N. i.;. Calm. Variable. N. by W North. N. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. Variable. E § o >r E a 8 9» 44 42 45 45 5° 5* 49 48 49 49 49 50 5° 46 461 451 46 46; 47 42 44 Day '7 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° 1 2 3 4 5 6 f 0 Weather, &C. ckc. P. M. frefli breezes and cloudy, with hail A. M. thick with fnow. Firft part, moderate with light falls of fnow. Middle, fqually. Latter, moderate and cloudy. P. M. fqually with fnow and hail. A.M. freih gales and cloudy. P. M. ftrong gales and fqually. A. M. moderate and cloudy. P. M. frcfh breezes and fair. A. M. moderate and cloudy. P. M. moderate and cloudy. A. M. fqualh _| with fmall rain. Frefh gales and fqually, with fleet. Squally with fnow and fleet. Moderate gales and cloudy. j Frefli gales and cloudy ; many ice ifland5, 7 about the fhip. J Frefh gales, thick and hazy. PaiTcd an ( iiland of ice. j P. M. ditto. A. M. ftrong gales and I fqually. Many ice iflands in fight. Strong gales, thick and rainy. Palled feveral ice iflands. P. M. faw the land of Terra tie I Fuegp. } Strong gak-s, thick, and foggy ; faw feve-J ral ice iiland'-. P. M. moderate and cloudy. A. M. fmall rain. j Moderate and hazy, with fmall rain j faw I many ice iflands. Light breezes and cloudy. tP. M. ditto. A. M. fqually with (jtoaH I rain. Faffed many iflands of ice. Frefh breezes and thick. Saw many ic< iflands. P. M. frefli breezes and clear. A. M. frefh gales and hazy. P. M. frelh gales and hazy, with dri/.zlin rain. A. M. light airs. p Dec. 5 Year, Month, and Day. 1788. Dec. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 T3 l5 16 *7 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 3 Longitude in South. 54 5° 54 5V 55 °- 54 3« 54 00 53 28 52 58 52 40 51 33 Eaft. o / 308 04 3°9 39 311 40 313 30 12 49 49 324 23 48 36327 24 47 35 33° 20 47 °3 46 23 45 18 1-3 42 27 41 34 l-o 35 3/ 314 20 317 02 VI 3« 320 45 334 03 338 °5 S4< 34 44 14 343 58 346 35 349 44 Winds. 42 26 353 00 6 16 35 359 38 N. by E. North N. by W North. ) N. N. W. [ 1 North N. N. W N. by E. Variable. North. N. N. E. E. N. E. N. W. 7 I W.N.W. j* C N. W. I North. N. N. E. . to S. S. E. j f S.S.E. I I to S. S. W. I S. VV. s. w. S. W. ) W.N.W. £ N. W. I N. N. W. J N. N. W. S. W. Weft. S. W. s. w. ■) W. S. W. ] Weft. I \ W.N.W. f J N.W. bvW. [ 1 N. N/W. I \ North. 1 \ N. N. E. I ( W.N.W. \ N. W. by N. f N. W. ) I N. N. w. ; E S p ii < D 49 47 48} 451 48 451 47 46 451 441 46| 47 54 51 4V 9 10 11 12 13 h "J 16 17 18 19 20 21 Weather, &c. &c. Light breezes and fair. 14 Moderate and clear. P. M. light airs and foggy. a. M. thick and hazy. Saw feveral ice iflands. 18 P. M. light airs and thick. A. M. foggy. J P. M. foggy. A. M. ftrong gales and I fqually. Faffed feveral large ice iflands fP. M. ftrong gales and fqually. A. M } moderate. Saw fome ice iflands. (P.M. frcfh breezes and hazy. A.M. J moderate and clear, j Moderate and hazy. Faffed a very large ( ice ifland. j P. M. frefli breezes and cloudy. A. M ) light breezes and foggy, j Frelh gales and hazy. Palfed many ice I iflands. j Frefh gales with fhowers of hail, fnow, \ and fleet. Saw many ice iflands. j Frefli breezes and fqually with rain. Paff-l ed feveral ice iflands. ] Moderate and fair. Pafled feveral ice I iflands. » 481 22 22 5M 23 24 54 24 24 56; 25 28 26 26 55 27 28 59 28 28 P. M. frcfh gales and fqually with rain. A. M. ftrong gales with rain. f P. M. ftrong gales and fqually. I More moderate and cloudy. I Frefli breezes and cloud)'. A. M ( feveral ice iflands. j P. M."moderate and hazy. A. M P. M. the laft ice was feen. A. M. palfed . foggy P. M, moderate and foggy. A. M. mode rate and hazy. (P. M. moderate and clear. I gales and fqually. Frefli breezes and fair. Moderate and fair. A.M. frcfl Dec. 25 Year, Mouth, and Day. Latitude cj Longitude in 1788. Dec. South. 0 / Eaft. 0 1 25 39 30 3 18 26 38 5° 4 56 27 38 24 7 34 28 37 »5 10 06 29 3° . 36 35 06 10 11 11 14 24 31 33 48 17 16 Winds. N. W, 60 6l 59.: 611 65I Day 29 Weather, &c. &c. Moderate and fair. At 2 P. M. crofted the meridian of Greenwich, and therefore deducted 3600, and repeated the 25th December. Frefh breezes and hazy. Light breezes and cloudy. Frefli breezes and hazy. Moderate and clear. 38 Moderate and fair. 38 Frefh gales and cloudy. ift January, 1789, anchored within Robin's Iiland, and next day failed up to Table-Bay, at the __'_ C'api ot (jood Hope. An ACCOUNT of Obfervations for finding the Variation of the Compafs, made on board His Majefty's Ship Sirius, between Port Jackfon and the Cape of Good Hope, by the Route of Cape Horn, in 1788. Latitude in South. 0 34 44 0 156- 50 09 169 5° 39 171 51 08 <74 5° 5° '79 51 08 183 5r 37 187 52 24 r93 53 06 199 55 °3 211 55 ] 2 210 56 23 228 55 14 250 55 24 2b I 55 54 264 57 J7 277 57 07 2bi 57 18 290 55 38 298 54 4i 298 S4 06 209 itude aft. Variat ion by Latitude Longitude V anation by A zimuth. Amplitude. in South. in Eaft. Azimuth. Amplitude. 0 1 0 0 0 4, 0 E. 0 40 11 s 40 £. 54 54 299 24 20 23 14 05 16 54 10 E. 55 12 303 13 '7 5° J5 3° l7 55 36 304 5° l7 3° 05 26 20 54 54 3°7 00 18 40 18 45 E- 13 11 53 18 315 58 l5 3° 21 J3 49 32 325 3° 9 3° 27 '3 44 48 19 328 52 7 3° 3° 28 10 35 1r co 47 55 329 57 6 10 12 10 41 47 19 331 27 3 34 25 °5 11 3° 47 08 332 54 2 34 [9 10 3° 8 45 32 342 02 00 04 20 7 3° 00 44 29 343 35 1 4i W. 06 8 °3 9 25 42 22 350 22 7 00 -;8 14 45 42 *3 353 50 10 30 to 00 W. 09 46 l7 30 4i 21 357 °5 12 11 11 5° 20 3° 360 00 2o 22 30 40 \9 00 18 14 3° oi 25 00 39 3 47 16 co 1 5 24 10 24 38 09 8 11 ,8 13 52 18 22 40 37 03 10 36 18 3° '9 00 22 lS 35 29 14 '9 1 22 30 CHAPTER CHAPTER V. Depart from Robin s Ifland, and anchor in Table Bay.—The fick fent on fore.—Arrival of the Alexander tranfpoH.—Provijions procured for the fettlement at Port Jackfon.—Departure of the Sirius.—In great danger from a violent tempejl.—Arrives fife at Port Jackfon.—Tables of the winds, weather, variation of the compafs, &c. CHAP. v. fa S foon as the fhip was anchored, we fent a boat with the firft lieutenant on fliore to the ifland, for fuch news from Europe as j 789. January, the commanding officer there might be able to give; I wiihed alfo to know if Governor Van de GraafF was ftill at the Cape, and if Colonel Gordon was ftill commander in chief of the troops in garrifon there. The officer commanding at the ifland was exceedingly civil to the lieutenant who went on fliore, and gave him every information he could; but it was unfortunate that the one could not fpeak a word of Englifh, nor the other underftand a word of Dutch : however, it was obferved, that he wore a large orange cockade in his hat, and although he could not converfe, he made the officer fufficiently underftand, by broken exprefTions of half Englifh and half Dutch, that the Englifh and Dutch were very good friends again, and that the French had no connection at all with Holland: from all which I conjectured, that fome confiderable changes had taken place in the affairs of the republic, fince our departure from England, and that the Stadtholder had been reinfhtcd in all all his rights* On hearing what a long voyage we had come, the officer chap. v. was fo kind as to fend a bafket of fuch fruit as his garden afforded j . J789« which, (to make the dejected fick well allured we were really in port,) were fent down and divided among them, for until then fome of them very much doubted. In the morning of the 2d of January, with a fine January 2> breeze from the northward, we got under way, and failed up to Table Bay. I had generally understood, that the depth of water between this ifland and the anchorage in Table Bay, was fo very confiderable as to be unfafe for anchorage, in cafe of being becalmed, or otherwife not able to reach the proper anchoring ground. I was the more inclined to believe that to be the cafe, from never having feen the foundings laid down in any chart of this bay, except where fhips commonly anchor : I therefore, to afcertain whether that were the cafe or not, determined to go up under an eafy fail, and to keep the lead going; the foundings were regular, and the deepeft water was 15 fathoms; the ground was hard and probably not very clear, but ftill there is anchorage, which I did not before know. At ten o'clock in the morning, we anchored in Table Bay, in feven and a half fathoms, and moored a cable each way. As foon as the fhip was fecured, I fent an officer to wait on the governor, and to inform him of the bufinefs I was come upon: he very politely informed the officer, that there was great abundance of every thing to be had, and that I had nothing to do but to iignify in writing the quantity of each article wanted, and directions would be immediately given refpecting it. His excellency alfo took that opportunity of fending me information, that he fhould in a few days, fend a fhip for Amlterdam; and, that if I had any difpatches to forward, and would fend them to his houfe, he would anfwer for their being delivered into the cuitody of the Britifh ambaffador, at the Hague, as far as the fafety of the fhip could be depended on. The governor alio confirmed the political accounts we had CHAP. V, had (though imperfectly,) received at the iiland : he fent me the treaty of alliance formed between the Kings of Great-Britain and Pruffia, and 1789, alfo that between the States-General and thefe two fovereigns, which was a very pleafing piece of intelligence. Every perfon here, either military or civil, wore a mark of their attachment to the Orange party and the old conftitution ; the former by an orange cockade, the latter, by a bit of ribbon of that colour, either at the bread, button-hole, or (leeve. Immediately after our arrival, I directed that fick-quarters mould be provided for the fick, which was done y and the invalids, to the number of forty, were landed under the care of Mr. Worgan, the furgeon of the fhip. Their expeditious recovery was of much confe-quence to the fervice upon which I was at that time employed, and it was alfo of confequence to that fervice, that they fhould be perfectly recovered before they were taken on board again ; as we had yet a veiy long voyage to perform before we could arrive at any port, after leaving the Cape. When we arrived in this bay, we had juft twelve men in each watch, and half that number, from fcorbutic contractions in their limbs, were not able to go aloft. Every perfon here, with whom any of the officers fell in company, fpoke of our voyage from the eaft coaft of New Holland, by Cape Horn, to the Cape of Good Hope, with great furprife, not having touched at any port in our way, and having failed that diftance in ninety-one days. I was now very anxious to get Ibme account of the tranfports, which, under the command of Lieutenant Shortland, the agent, had left Port Jackfon on the 14th of July, 1788, and which I was forry to underftand had not been in this bay : for I thought it highly probable, that as their route was to the northward, by the Molucca Iflands and Batavia, they would certainly touch here in their way home. It being now feven months lince they failed, I was appre-hcnfive for their fafety ; particularly when I confidercd the very weakly condition condition of fome of their crews, by the fcurvy, when they left us, and chap. v. not a furgeon in any one of the fhips. This muft be allowed to be very 1789. improper ccconomy in the owners of thofe fhips, when the extent of the voyage they had undertaken is confidercd, together with the well known impoflibility of their being able to procure feamen, or any recruit of ftrength to their fhips companies, in that inhofpitable and far diftant part of the world.—I cannot help here taking the liberty of faying, that it is much to be lamented, when fhips are hired for the fervice of government, to perform fuch long and trying voyages to the health of thofe emploved in them, that it is not "made a part of the contract and practice, that they carry a furgeon; for I know well, that feamen, when taken ill upon fuch long paflages, are, at the very idea of being without the aiii (lance of a furgeon, (although carelefs and void of thought at other times, when in perfect health,) apt to give way to melancholy, and a total dejection of fpirits; and that many a valuable fubject has been loft to the country by fuch a trifling faving. Out of the nine tranfports which were employed on this fervice, one only had a furgeon ; and that one, had ftie not been bound upon fome other fervice, after leaving Port Jackfon, would in all probability have been without one alfo. On the 5th, a Dutch India fhip arrived here from Rio de Janeiro : January 5. by this fhip I received information of the arrival at that place of two vefTels from the eaft coaft of New Holland; that they arrived iingly, and in very great diftrefs, from ficknefs, and the death of many of their iKople ; that the firft which arrived, had her name cn her item, {Prince of Jt'i'Ics, of London y) from which circumitancc, there could be no doubt of its being one of our tranfports: the other veffel was alfo fo well defcribed, that I knew it to be the Borrowdale ftore-fhip. The officers of this India fhip obferved farther, that they were fo weak, that had they not CHAP. V, not 5een boarded by boats without the harbour, they had been unable to I?8g4 bring their veffels into fafety. Thefe fhips, I apprehended, had parted company with Lieutenant Shortland, foon after failing from Port Jackfon, and had then determined to go to the eaflward by Cape Horn; but ■ they were wrong in my opinion, (and I judge from my own experience,) after paffing Cape Horn, in preferring a port at Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope, which lad place, T have no doubt, they would have reached in lefs time, and with confiderable lefs fatigue to their fickly crews , befide the advantage of being able to procure more feamen,. if they were in want ; which I apprehend they will find much difficulty in obtaining at Rio de Janeiro. As wefterly winds are prevalent between Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope, if it fhould fo happen that thefe winds blow more from the north-well than the fouth-weft quarters, their progrefs to the northward would be but flow along the coaft of South America j but from both thefe quarters it is fur, if bound over to the coaft of Africa : and farther, with refpecl: to a paffage to Europe, they would have been more conveniently fituated at the Cape of Good Hope, than at Rio de Janeiro, for making that paffage with expedition ; for at Rio you are within the limits of the fouth-eaft trade, and upon that coaft are confequently to leeward; fo that you may be obliged to ftretch as far from thence to the fouthward as the latitude of 30° 00' fouth, and fometimes 32° 00' along that coaft, before you can tack and {land to the north-eaft, in order to be able to crofs the equator far enough to the eaftward, to enfure a tolerable paffage acrofs the north* eaft trade \ but at the Cape, you are far to windward, and fleer to the Januarys, northward with a large wind. On the 19th, a fmall Dutch frigate arrived here from Batavia; from which I learned, that Lieutenant Shortland had arrived at that port with a ftngle fhip, about the beginning of December, in a very diftrefted condition ; that he had buried the the greateft part of the (hip'; company, and was affifted by the officers chap. and company of the above frigate to fecure his veiYel and hand the fails, 1789, which he could not have done without afliflance; and that he had been reduced to the neceffity, fome time before he arrived, to fink the other vefTel which was in company with him, for the purpofe of manning one out of the remaining part of the two mips companies ; without which, he never could have reached Batavia with either: for when he arrived there, he had only four men out of the two crews, who were capable of {landing on the deck. I was now particularly anxious for the arrival of Mr. Shortland at the Cape> that I might have fomething more authentic than thefe reports to give Governor Phillip, on my return to Port Jackfon. By altitudes taken for the time-keeper, fince we had been here, we found its error to be 1" 31' eafterly, and Brockbank's watch erred 3" Olf eafterly alfo ; from which I conjecture, that the very cold weather which we experienced fome time before we reached, and for a confiderable time after we palfed, Cape Horn, had affected the watch's going; when we made Terra del Fuego, it appeared to be about i° oo' to the eaftward. I made a prefent of a dog from New South Wales, to a gentleman who came on board, and thought it a curiofity : it was taken by many who vifited the Sirius for a jackall, as it was much of that make and colour. On the 18th of February, to my no fmall fatisfaction, (for I was February preparing to fail the next day,) Mr. Shortland arrived in the Alexander tranfport. I was going off from the fliore, when I difcovered the fhip coming round Green Point; I rowed directly on board, and his people were fo happy to fee their old friends in Table-Bay, that they cheered 0^2 US -chap. v. us as wc came alongfide. I now received from Mr. Shortland an exact: confirmation of all the intelligence which I had received concerning i789* him from the officers of the Dutch frigate. The two mips which I had collected fome accounts of from Rio de Janeiro, he told me, had parted company with him two days after he left Port Jackfon j and that he was nineteen weeks and four days on his paffage to Batavia, February 20. On the 20th of February, I failed from Table-Bay, after having taken on board twelve months provifions for the fhip's company ; and, in addition, about fix months flour for the whole fettlement ; together with various ftores for the colony, and many private articles for the different officers, &c. 6cc. in fhort, the fhip's hold, between decks, every officer's apartment, and all the ftorc-rooms were completely filled. During the time we lay in Table-Bay, I received many civilities, indeed many marks of the moft polite and friendly attention from Governor Van de Graaf, Colonel Gordon, and many other officers of this fettlement. Before we embarked any of the provifions, we heeled the fhip, to endeavour to flop the leak, which had kept the pumps fo much employed during the voyage, and which I mentioned before, I was in hopes of being able, in fine weather, to get at, and flop at fea; but, after feveral attempts, we found it impracticable: we were now fo fortunate as to get at it; it proceeded from an iron bolt, which had been corroded by the copper, and by the working of the fhip had dropt out, and left a hole of more than an inch in diameter. A wooden plug was put in, and covered again with copper. But beiide this leak, there were many other fmaller holes, which were occafioned by the decay of long fpike-nails with which the fkirting-board (which fecures the upper edge of the the copper) had been fattened on, and had gone quite through the main chap plank of the fhip's bottom. All were clofed, as far as we examined, * 1 and the fhip for the prefent made lefs water, but was not fo tight as *789-formerly j it was therefore my intention, upon my arrival at Port Jackfon, to reprcfent to Governor Phillip the necellity there was to lighten and examine the fhip fome diftance below the wales; that fuch defects as we might find might be remedied while they were trifling. The time-keeper, which I have already mentioned to have had upon our arrival here an error of I* 31', feemed, during the time we lay in Table-Bay, to have gradually recovered its original rate, (viz. 4^-77,) it was now lofing 4^-78 ; this ferved to convince me of the juttice of my conjecture, that it had been confiderably affected by the very cold weather we had near Cape Horn. After we left the Cape of Good Hope, we had, for three weeks^ ftrong gales from the fouthward, with fqually difagreeable weather, which fometimes reduced our fails as low as courfes; we did not meet with wetterly winds quite fo foon as I expected, or as we had done the laft time we made this paffage. In latitude 38° 30' and in the meridian of the Cape, we had, for two days, a current to the northward of 44 miles each day; and in latitude 40% and longitude 220 eaft, we were, in two days, fet 68 miles to the fouthward, and by the watch, 60 miles to the eaftward, more than the log gave. In latitude 41° 50' fouth, and longitude 28° 09' eaft, the wind fhifted from the fouthward to the north-north-eaft, and blew a very ftrong gale for two days; it then fettled in the north-weft quarter. At that time, being in latitude 430 oo' fouth, and longitude 37° 30' eaft, we found the variation of the compafs had encreafed as high as 320 20' weft, before we had reached as much CHAP. v. much eaft longitude as we found that variation in laft paffage; but we were now in a higher latitude, as will appear by the variation table which is annexed at the end of this chapter. * ■March 20. Gn the 20th of March, having fprung the trufsle trees of the main-itop-maft, we ftruck and unrigged them, and fitted new ones. On the 22d, we had a very heavy gale of wind from north-north-eaft and north, with a prodigious high broken fea; our courfe (eaft-fouth-eaft) being at right angles to the wind, we kept the fhip in the trough of the fea, which occafioned our (hipping feveral heavy feas, and made me very apprehenfive for the fafety of the boats and booms ; I was therefore under the necef-fity of laying the (hip to, under a balanced mizzen, for about four hours ; when the wind fliifting fuddenly to north-weft, enabled me to bear away and fet the reefed fore-fiil; it continued to blow very hard all night, and we fhipt much water, but the fhip having a flufh deck, no weight could lay on it, the only danger was that of filling the boats; to prevent which, I, after this gale, had them turned bottom up ; the fhip now made about as much water as fhe did on the former paffage. The wind continued in the north-weft quarter, and blew ftrong until the April 8. 8th of April, when it inclined a little to the eaftward of north for two or three days, but it had not fo much eafting in it as to be unfavourable 16th. for our courfe. On the 16th, we were in latitude 44." 45' fouth, and in longitude 1350 30' eaft; and at night we perceived the fea fpread over with luminous fpots, refembling lanthorns floating on its furface; when nearly about the lame longitude on the laft voyage we difcovered the fame appearance upon the fea : this obfervation may have its ufe, and fetve as a hint for your being at no great diftance from Van »th. Diemen's Land. On the 20th, we had a ftrong gale from weft-north-weft to north-north-weft, which fuddenly moderated in the night, and veered veered round to the weftward, with a light air at fouth-weft by fouth, chap. v. by which we were encouraged to make all the fail poflible; but we had no fooner got every thing fet, than the wind veered round to the fouthward, and began to blow ; in a few hours it increafed to a very violent gale of wind; we were now in latitude 440 29/ fouth, by account, and longitude 144° 30' eaft, being fo near Van Diemen's Land, and fo welL to the fouthward as I fuppofed we were, I had no doubt of being able to crofs it, and, availing myfelf of this foutherly wind, to run along the coaft to the northward, and reach Port Jackfon.in a few days ; but. as we drew near the meridian of the fouth cape, the gale increafed to a mere tempeft, attended with thick hazy weather, and.a moft aftonifh— ing high fea; this brought us under a reefed fore-fail, balanced mizzen, a»d the three ftorm flay-fails.. At day-light on the morning of the 2.1 ft, the fore, main, and mizzen ftay-fails were all fplit by the violence of the wind; by. this accident we were reduced to the reefed fore-fail and balanced mizzen; and for fome time we were under the neceflity of. handing the fore-fail, the gale ftill. continuing to increafe rather than abate; and inclining to the eaftward of fouth, was in our fituation at this time particularly unfortunate : for. we were now fo far advanced to the eaftward as to hope that in a few hours we fhould h.ive been able to have made a fair wind of it, if it had continued to the fouthward. I. ftill flattered myfelf, that we were fo. far to the fouthward, as not to have a doubt of paffing fome diftance to the fouthward of Rock Swilley, and oonfequently at a furlicient diftance from the fouth cape, which is the fouthern point or extremity of this promontory ; for this rock, or ledge of rocks, is not, lefs than fifteen miles from the fouth cape, and we were now about its meridian, both by the longitude carried on from the laft lunar obfervations, which were taken five days before, and by our time-keeper, from which our fituation had been, determined fince thefo ^ obfervations*:. ■err a p. v. obfervations, as long as the fun was to be feen in any part of the day: it now blew a mod violent sale of wind, with thick hazv weather. It J7S9. t to > may not be improper here to obferve, that three days had now elapfed without a fight of the fun during the day, or a ftar during the night, from which we could exaBly determine our latitude ; but as every allowance had been made for the drifting of the fhip to leeward, under a very low fail, and an exceeding heavy fea, and for every other difadvantage attending fuch a fituation ; there remained not a doubt with me, or any officer on boafd, but that we were near half a degree to the fouthward of the fouth cape, and as the diftance from weft to eaft, acrofs this promontory, is not more than a degree and a half of longitude, or about twenty or twenty-two leagues in diftance, (that is, from the fouth-we ft cape to Tafman's Head) we had every reafon to think we were near round it; but at half paft three in the afternoon it cleared a little in the horizon, and we faw the land bearing eaft j the haze was fuch that we could not well guefs the diftance, but it was very near; on this we wore the fhip immediately, and ftood to the weftward : the wind had now got to fouth-fouth-eaft, but continued to blow with great violence, the fhip upon this tack lying up fouth-weft, we fet the reefed main-fail, and at half paft fix we faw the land again, through the haze clofe under our lee bow, and the fea breaking with prodigious force upon it it, was impofiible to weather it; therefore we wore the fhip immediately, while there was a chance of having room for doing fo. I now found that we were embayed, and the gale not in the leaft likely to abate, and the fea running mountain high, with very thick weather, a long dark night juft coming on, and an unknown coaft I may call it, (for although it has been feen by feveral navigators, it is not yet known) clofe under our lee ; nothing was now left to be clone (but to carry every yard of canvafs the fhip was capable of bearing, and 6 fo* for every perfon on board to conftantly keep the deck, and attentively CHA to look out under the lee for the land, and as often as it might be dif-covered, to wear, and lay the fhip's head the other way: but as we knew not what bay, or part of the coaft we were upon, nor what dangerous ledges of rocks might be detached fome diftance from the fliore; and in our way, we had" every moment reafon to fear that the next might, by the fhip ftriking, launch the whole of us into eternity. Our fituation was fueh that not a man could have efcaped to have told where the reft fufTered : however, whatever might have been the; private feelings of each individual, I never faw orders executed with, more alacrity in any fituation ; every officer and man took his ftation for the look-out; and, the fhip being wore to the eaftward, notwith-ftanding the ftrength of the gale, the clofe reefed fore and main top-fails were fet over the reefed courfes. Fortunately at this inftant the wind favoured us near two points, and the fhip lay better up upon this tack, than her courfe upon the other had promifed, but ftill the weather was fo thick, the fea fo high, the gale fo ftrong, and fo dead upon the fliore, that little hope could be entertained of our weathering the land. We ftood on to the eaftward, and the fhip, to my aftoniihment, as well as to that of every perfon on board, bore fuch a prefs of fail wonderfully. We had, about midnight, run back the diftance made from the firft:, land we faw to the fecond, and perceived, through the haze, the looming of that land under our lee, nearly on the beam y this advantage we had gained by the ihifting of the wind two points : we now ftood on, and I had hopes that this might be the moft projecting land; but at two in the afternoon, as I was looking from the quarter deck very anxloully to leeward, I obferved the looming of a high and very fteep point of rocky land, and the fea foaming with frightful violence againft it. I made no mention of it; but juft at that inftant it was difcovered R by 122 AVOYAGETO chap. v. faiior3 Rationed forward, and they called out, " Land, clofe 1789. under our lee y I replied it was very well, I had feen it fome time, and that as it was now upon our beam (which it really was, for I difcovered it through the main fhrouds) there could be no danger from it, we fhould foon pafs it: if this land had been feen a little fooner, the fear of not being able to weather it might have occafioned our wearing, which would hive been unfortunate, as the weather juft cleared up at a time when we could fee that no danger was to be apprehended from it. The fhip was at this time half buried in the fea by the prefs of fail, fince flic-was going through it (for (lie could not be faid to be going over it) at the rate of four knots. Wc foon fhot paft this head, and from the courfe we had made, I was convinced it was Tafman's Head, which is the eaftern point of a bay, of which the fouth cape is the weftern, and was called by Tafman, Stcnn-Bay. The firft land we had feen was within the bay, on the eaft fhore, not fo far out as Tafman's Head; and the weftern land, under which we wore at half paft fix, was the fouth cape. After pafling Tafman's Head, wc kept our wind ftill, and carried fail, in order, if poflible, to weather Maria's Iflands, which lay about fix leagues to the north-eaft, for we had no fooner got round the laft head, than the wind headed us, and we fell off from eaft by fouth to eaft by north j had this change taken place a little fooner, it muft have proved fatal to us. At eight the next morning, we pafl'ed to the windward of Maria's Iilands, which, from the hazinefs of the weather, we did not fee until they were upon the lee quarter. If I had found it impoflible to have got round thofe iflands, it was my intention to have ftood back to the weftward, and have got fight of the land, between Tafman's Head and Adventure-Bay ; to have run along the coaft, clofe in, until I found the opening of that road, and there to have depended upon our anchors. In this trying fituation, the fhip being leaky, our 3 pumps pumps during fuch a night were a diftrefling tax upon us; as they were <^^V« kept conftantly at work. I do not recollect to have heard of a more wonderful efcape. Every thing which depended upon us, I believe, was done ; but it would be the higheft prefumption and ingratitude to Divine Providence, were we to attribute our prefervation wholly to our beft endeavours: his interference in our favour was fo very cbhfpicuoufly manifefted in various inftances, in the courfe of that night, as I believe not to leave a fliadow of doubt, even in the minds of the moft profligate on board, of his immediate afliftancc ! After having weathered Maria's Iflands, we continued to ftand on with a prefs of fail to the eaftward, for I was anxious to gain an offing from the coaft, the fhip being exceedingly difablcd. All the rails of the head, round houfes, and figure of the head, were wafhed entirely away j and the rails to which the bumkins were fecured were fo much weakened as to require to be Trapped down to the knee of the head; the jib-boom, the fprit-fail-yard, and the fore-top-gallant ma ft were necefTarily kept down upon deck to cafe the bow-fprit, in cafe any of its fecurities fhould be in danger from the fhattered condition of the cutwater. We were no fooner to the eaftward of Maria's Iflands, than the wind fhifted round to fouth-eaft and call-fouth-eaft, which brought us again upon a lee fliore, for wc could not weather Maria's Iflands upon one tack, nor Shooten's Ifies and Bay of Shoals upon the other; however, as it did not now blow fo hard, and the land was near 20 leagues diftant, I was not under any apprchenfions from it. On the 26th, the April 26. wind fet in from the northward, and blew frefli, frequently attended with the moft violent fqualls; it continued northerly until the 2d of May 2. May, when it inclined to the fouthward, and from that to the eaftward : R 2 I had 124 A V O Y A G F T O cl- P'j' * nac^ on feveral diftances of the o and D, the "refult of which t was 1550 25" eaft longitude, which was little more than one degree to May6, the eaftward of the time-keeper. On the 6th, in the morning, we made the land in latitude 33" 30' fouth j and at noon Cape Three Points bore weft by fouth, diftant off fliore four leagues. Here, upon a rough examination of the error of the time-keeper, it appeared to be a degree or little more to the weftward of the Truth, but we expected, upon our arrival at Port Jackfon, to examine its error more particularly. On recurring back to the laft altitudes taken for the time*keeper before our making Van Diemen's Land, and carrying it on by the log, we found that the error on making that land was but a very few miles of longitude, and that error moft probably was in the carrying on the log; fo that there was every reafon to think, that the violent agitation of the fhip during that time, was the caufe of that change in the watch, and which I own I was not at all furprifed at, but think it highly probable, as the watch lay in a box upon foft cufhions, and that box fcrewed down to a place fecurely and firmly fixed for that purpofe : I cannot help thinking but that fo very valuable apiece of watch-work (for I do really think, from the experience I have had of it, that a fuperior piece of work was never made) would be better fixed upon a fmall horizontal table, made on purpofe, and well feeured; and under the box which contains the watch, a kind of fpiral fpring or worjn, which, with every jerk or pitch of the fhip, would yield a little with the weight of the watch, and thereby take off much of that fhock which muft in fome degree affect its going. The winds now (rather unfortunately for us), after 24 hours calm, inclined again to the fouthward, and we kept plying to .windward with all the fail we could carry. Right off Cape Three Points, at fix leagues diftance from the fliore, we founded in 75 fa-8th, thorns, over a bottom of fine grey fand. On the 8 th, a light air from the the northward in the night, carried us by day-light in light of the en- chap. v. trance of Port Jackfon; and in the evening of the oth, we entered be- 1789. tween the heads of the harbour, and worked up to Sydney Cove, where we anchored before dark, after an abfence of 219 days, 51 of which we lay in Table-Bay, Cape of Good Hope : fo that, although during, this voyage we had fairly gone round the world, we had only been 168 days in describing that circle; and, by taking a mean of the higheft and lowefl latitudes we failed in, we fhall find our track nearly in latitude 450 fouth. We found in the cove the Supply armed tender. Our paffage, fince we came round Van Diemen's Land, had been attended with much bad weather, very violent fqualls, and a thick haze; particularly with the wind from the eaftward: I had before obferved, that in the winter-time, upon this coaft, we were fubject to much bad weather; and this paflage convinced me of the neceflity, when fhips are intended to be fent to this fettlement, that the feafon fhould be confidered and attended to. During the fummer months we were fometimes fubject to thunder, lightning, and ftrong fqualls ; but in general the weather is fine. If in the faircft weather you ob-ferve it to lighten in the lee part of the horizon, you fhould prepare for a fquall from that quarter, which is in general pretty fevere. In palling (at a diftance from the coaft) between the iflands of Schooten and Furneaux, and Point I licks; the former being the north-ermoft of Captain Furneaux's obfervations here, and the latter the fouthcrmoft part, which Captain Cook faw when he failed along the coaft, there has been no land feen, and from our having felt an eafterly let of current, when the wind was from that quarter (north-weft) we . wc had an uncommon large fea, there is reafon thence to believe, that there is in that fpace either a very deep gulf, or a ftraight, which may feparate Van Diemen's Land from New Holland : there have no dif-coveries been made on the weftern fide of this land in the parallel I allude to, between 390 oo' and 420 oo" fouth, the land there having never been feen. A TABLE i-7 A TABLE of the Winds and Weather, &c. &c. on a Pafiage from the Cape of Good Hope to Port Jackfon, in His Majefty's Ship Sirius. 1789. Year, Month, and Day. Latitude Longitude in 17X9. Feb. 21 South. 33 S8 Eaft, 16 38 22 34 12 14 48 n 35 06 14 15 H 36 20 12 5; *5 36 56 13 00 26 37 06 J4 25 27 37 48 '3 36 28 March 3« 33 '3 03 1 38 57 14 18 2 38 34 <5 49 3 39 c6 J5 55 4 +0 25 ^7 38 5 40 c9 20 19 6 Account. 39 U 21 30 7 40 25 21 48 - Winds. j South. > 1 S. by E. ; S. W. 1 S. S. E. I South. \ South. 1 S. S. W. I S.W. byS.\ S. S. W. ) S. S.E. J S. S. E. S. S. E. ) South. I s. VV. \ s. S. VV. 1 Variable South. S. by E. S. S. E. S. S. W. S. by W. s. s. w. S. W. S. S. W. to S.S. E. S. E. E. S. E. E. N. E. N. E. }. W. N. W. \ VV. N. W. j N. W. I S. S.W. \ S. by E. ) S. S. E. \ S.S.E. i South. j { ES'SEE. } c 0 e c Moon'; Age. 67 68 671 661 66i 64 63 63 64 661 67 70 69 62 59 Day. 28 29 30 i 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 Weather, &c. &c. o Moderate and fair. Frefh breezes and fair. Frefli gales and cloudy. f P. M. frefli gales and cloudy. A. M. mo-\ derate. / P. M. Moderate and fair. A. M. light airs I and cloudy. f Moderate and cloudy, A.M. frefli gales I and fqually. ?P. M. frefli gales and fqually. A. M. mo I derate and cloudy. \ Moderate and cloudy, a large fwell from I S. VV. [P. M. Moderate and cloudy. A. M. ligtt ) airs. b Moderate breezes and thick hazy weather. Frefli breezes and cloud v. Moderate and fair. IP. M- frefli gales and fair. A.M. dit: I with rain. Strong gales, fqually, and thick, r refh gales and fqually, with rain. February Year, Month, and Day. 1789. , March 8 10 11 12 13 H 16 '7 18 19 20 2.1 22 23 24 25 26 27 Longitude in South. o * 40 33 41 53 4i 53 41 40 41 5 42 37 43 33 43 4* Account. 43 3» 43 2* 43 c6 Account. t2 5$ 42 54 +3 °4 Account- 13 °7 *3 c +2 5 42 4. 42 35 42 4J Eaft. 22 41 22 12 0 23 4 26 30 28 08 3i 43 35 4- 39 12 42 04 45 46 49 31 52 5S 54 44 58 45 62 18 66 29 70 06 73 29 77 43 So 31 Winds. S. S. E. S. E.. E. S. E. S. E. *S. E. S. S. W. s, w. w. s. w. t w. s. w. \ W. N. W. ( S. \v\ j s. s. w. I N. N.E. N. E. by N. N. E. )N.E. by N. I N. N. W. f N.W.byN. < N. E. byN. / W. N. W. ] W.N.W. I Weft, f W. N. W. ^ North. ( N. N. E. North N. W. N. N. W. W. N. W. Weft, N. E. by N. North. * NorOi, N. N. E. N. N. W. North. W. N. W. N. N. W. N. W. W. 5. W. Weft, N. W. N. N. W. N. N. W. W. N. W. N. W. § s I? 2^ 63 61 59.: 60 61 61 61 56 54 49i 55 57 54 65! til 56 59 62 59 Day. 13 r5 16 *7 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26' 27 28 29 3° 1 Weather, &c. P. M. frefh gales and cloudy. A. M. ditto with rain. Frefh gales and hazy, 3 Frefh gales and cloudy, with fmaM rain, Frefli breezes and fair. Moderate and fair. Frefli breezes and clear. Frefh gales and cloudy. j P. M. frefh gales and hazy, with frequent I fqualls. A..M. moderate and cloudy. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. f P. M. moderate breezes with rain. A. M. I frefli gales and heavy fqualls, with rain. Frefli gales and clear. Frefh gales and hazy, with rain. P. M. Light breezes and thiek. A- M moderate and clear. Moderate and thick hazy weather, with rain P. M. frefli gales and hazy. A. M. heavy fqualls. At noon ftrong gales, with heavy fqualls and rain. (P.M. ftrong gales with heavy fqualls. I A.M. moderate. j Strong gales- and cloudy, with frequent I fqualls. Frefh gales and'cloudy. \ M. frefli gales and cloudy. A.M. fqually j P. M. frefli gales and fqually, with rain ( A, M. moderate and clear. March 127 Year, u Month, c Longi- and rt tude in Day. 1789. South* Eaft. March 0 i 28 42 48 84 18 29 42 47 86 58 3o 42 57 90 26 31 43 11 94 34 April 1 43 21 97 55 Account. 2 43 27 99 ll 1 Altitud. 3 44 14 102 53 Account. 4 44 23 106 32 5 44 17 I09 32 6 43 40 "3 24 7 43 40 116 H 8 43 48 119 95 9 43 53 122 *5 10 44 *7 224 46 11 44 41 126 47 Account. 1 2 45 00 129 10 '3 44 56 132 43 2. Altitud. 14 44 52 *34 07 Account. '5 44 45 r35 °5 16 44 42 '37 V 17 H 42 140 02 18 44 l7 [41 42 Winds. f W. n. W. 7 1 S. W. 1 j W. s. w. 1 I n. w. ; n. W. to ) S. W. f s. s. w. i s. w. I N. E. \ N. E. 1 North. i N. N. W. \ North. North. \ N. N. W. ] N. N. W. ) N. W. I Weft. N. N. w. ) North. \ N. N. E. ) N. N. E. I North. f N. E. N. E. N. N. E. N. N. E. N. N. E. North. N. W. N. W. Variable. S. W. N. N. E. North. N. by W. N.'W. S. W. S. S. E. S. by E. South. N. N. E. E -Ja t. H S 55l 57 571 57 53 54 59 58 56 54 57 5<> 58 58 59 58 581 58 59 58 s-8 5 K 3< Day 3 4 5 6 7 8 IP 11 12 13 14 J5 16 17 18 [9 20 21 22 P. M. frelh galas and hazy, with fmall rain, A. M. freili breezes and cloudy. 6 Frefli breezes and clear. 6 Moderate and fair. 6 Frelh gales and hazy. Weather, &c. &c. Ditto. P. M. Light breezes and cloudy. A. M, Frefli gales, thick and hazy. Frefli gales and fqually Frcfh gales and hazy, with rain. Frelh gales and hazy, with fqualls and rain Frefli gales and cloudy. Moderate and hazy. Moderate and fair. Ditto. Moderate and cloudy. Frefh gales, thick and fqually. Frefli gales, thick and hazy. . j P. M. Frefli gales and fqually. A. M. ( moderate and cloudy. . 5 Moderate and foggy. . (P.M. Calm, with a thick fog. A.M. ) light airs and hazy. j P. M. ditto. A. M. Frefli breezes and I cloudy. . (P. M. frefli breezes and foggy. A.M. I hazy. Light airs, inclinable to calm. April i<.)T A VOYAGE 'TO i ea i, Month, and Day. 1789. April *9 20 21 22 3 a Longitude in South. o y z Altitud. 44 29 Account. 44 16 Account 44 00 Account 43 17 Ohferva. Eaft. 145 01 146 32 147 26 148 31 Winds. C 0 c a 0 5; E a P B 23 ■ 37 49 47 24 1 Altitud 4.2 I S r5o 16 25 Obferra. +1 33 [50 40 26 41 09 150 57 27 41 5° t52 18 28 2 Alti'ud 40 54 '53 53 29 i AUituJ. 39 57 '55 14 30 May I OMerva. 3« 37 38 2. 1 5 5 155 45 06 2 37 24 •55 40 3 37 c5 '55 49 4 35 3<; x54 43 5 33 4^ 152 14 6 33 3C F5« 18 i 33 2j 152 16 N. N. W. W.N.W. S. S. W. S. S. E. South. South. S. S. E. S. bv E. S. S. E. I N. N.E. \ SI 52 54 57 Day 25 26 27 28 Weather, &c. ike. . N, N. W, I s. VV. j S. W. by W. I I Variable, ] 61 64 62 62 61 6l 6l 62; 62 i Frefh breezes and cloudy. Middle, ftrong ( gales, with heavy fqualls. {Full part, ftrong gales and fqually. Middle and latter, heavy gales and fqualls of rain, with a heavy fea. !P. M. heavy gales, thick and hazy, with ftrong fqualls and rain. A. M. violent hi nails, u very heavy fea. \ P. M. ftrong gales and hazy, with heav\ \ fqualls. A. M. fomcthing more moderate, P. M. light breezes and cloudy• A. M. Ire!!) gales, with heavy fqualls. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Frefli gales and fqually, with rain. P.M. Frcfh gales and cloudy. A.M. light riablc airs. 8 Light airs and variable. 10 10 to 10 U 8 10 11 \ P. M. light airs and clear. A. M. light airs, \ with lightning, thunder, and rain. (P. M. light airs, with rain. A. M. frefh ( gales, thick, and fqually. Frefh gales and fqually, with mowers of rain. P. M. frcfh gales and fqually. A. M. mo derate and clear. P. M. frelh breezes and cloudy. A. M, hard fqualls, with lightning and heavy rain. I Frelh breezes and cloudy. Latter fqually I with rain. Moderate and cloudy. ( P. M. light airs. Middle frelh breezes and I cloudy. A. M. ditto. Frefh gates and cloudy, with fome fqualls. 2 Frefli gales and fqually { 1 ?- P. M. frefli gales and fqually. A.M. mort moderate. At noon, Entrance of Port Jackfon W. by S. 3 or 4 Leagues.-Worked b, and anchored in Port Jackfon harbour.--Frelh gales and fqually. -Light airs and fair. An An ACCOUNT of Obfervations for finding the Variation of the Compafs, made on board His Majefty's Ship Sirius, between the Cape of Good Hope and Port Jackfon, New South Wales, 1789. Latitude in South. Longitude in Eaft. Variation by Latitude in South. Longitude in Eaft. Variation by Azimuth. Amplitude Azimuth. Amplitude 0 * 36 22 39 J7 40 35 41 53 4i 43 41 46 41 57 .42 47 43 46 43 10 42 55 42 56 43 00 50 12 39 lS 55 21 38 24 10 26 47 27 i4 28 43 32 29 39 50 47 52 52 52 54 10 57 19 85 00 j 0 / 21 04 W. 24 00 28 10 28 40 28 37 ' 29 00 29 10 30 40' 32 20 31 28 23 00 0 ' 23 03W. 26 10 28 00 28 00 29 57 32 00 32 24 0 / 42 47 44 18 43 4° 40 41 43 46 43 49 44 4° 44 45 44 50 44 46 44 43 41 28 41 06 33 24 0 ' 87 02 108 48 112 22 Il6 12 "7 45 119 02 125 51 126 39 132 28 *33 34 137 °o 150 10 150 49 152 16 23 00W. 20 00 17 20 16 20 '5 34 J4 03 10 40 9 58 4 00 3 30 2 10 8 30 E. 9 08 10 40 0 ' 23 20W. 16 30 15 34 9 10 E. 11 05 CHAPTER CHAPTER VI. The fnall-pox makes its appearance among the natives.—Its fatal effects.—A criminal court held.—Six marines tried and convicted.—Governor Phillip vijits Broken-bay.—Explores its various inlets.—Returns to Port Jackfon. Broken-bay furveyed.—Botany-bay furveyed.—Two natives brought to the fettlement y and kindly treated.—One of them makes his efcape. CHAP. \ S foon as the fhip was fecured, I went on more to wait on the i_ _i XTL governor, whom I found in good health; he was fitting by the 1789. fire, drinking tea with a few friends; among whom I obferved a native man of this country, who was decently cloathed, and feemed to be as much at his cafe at the tea-table as any perfon there; he managed his cup and faucer as well, as though he had been long accuftomed to fuch entertainment. This man was taken from his friends, by force, by Lieutenant Ball, of the Supply, and Lieutenant George Johnfton, of the marines, who were fent down the harbour with two boats for that purpofe; the governor having found that no encouragement he could give the natives, would difpofe them to vifit the fettlement of their own accord : this method he had therefore determined upon, to get one man into his -■pofleflion, who, by kind treatment, might hereafter be the means of dif-pofing his countrymen to place more confidence in us. This man, whofe name was Ara-ba-noo, was taken, as I have already faid, by force, and in the following manner. After having been a fhort time in conversation converfation with fome of the gentlemen, one of the feamen, who had been previoufly directed, threw a rope round his neck, and dragged him in a moment down to the boat; his cries brought a number of his friends into the Ikirts of the wood, from whence they threw many lances, but without effect. The terror this poor wretch fuffered, can better be conceived than expreffed ; he believed he was to be immediately murdered; but, upon the officers coming into the boat, they removed the rope from his neck to his leg, and treated him with fo much kind-nefs, that he became a little more chearful. lie was for fome time after his arrival at the governor's houfe, ornamented with an iron (hackle about his leg, to prevent his being able to effect his efcape with eafe; this he was taught to confider as bang-ally t which is the name given in their language to every decoration ; and he might well believe it a compliment paid to him, becaufe it was no uncommon thing for him to fee feveral (of the moft worthlefs of the convicts, who had merited punifhment) every day fhackled like him; the caufe of which he could not of courfe underftand. However, he was very foon reconciled to his fituation, by the very kind treatment he received from every perfon about him, and the iron growing uneafy, it was taken off, and lie was allowed to go where he pleafed. He very foon learnt the names of the different gentlemen who took notice of him, and when I was made acquainted with him, he learnt mine, which he never forgot, but ex-preffed great defire to come on board my nowee; which is their exprefiion for a boat or other veffel upon the water. The day after I came in, the governor and his family did me the honour to dine on board, when I was alfo favoured with the company of Ara-ba-noo, whom I found to be a very good natured talkative fellow ; he was about thirty years of age, and tolerably well looked. I expreffed, when at the governor's, much furprize, at not having feen a fiugle native on the fliore, or a * canoe 134 TRANSACTIONS AT CHAp. canoe as we came up in the fhip ; the reafon of which I could not m. . K. y comprehend, until I was informed that the fmall-pox had made its ap-1789. pearance, a few months ago, amongft thefe unfortunate creatures, and that it was truly fhocking to go round the coves of this harbour, which were formerly fo much frequented by the natives; where, in the caves of the rocks, which ufed to melter whole families in bad weather, were now to be feen men, women, and children, lying dead. As we had never yet feen any of thefe people who have been in' the fmalleft degree marked with the fmall-pox, we had reafon to fuppofe they have never before now been affected by it, and confequently are ftrangers to any method of treating it: and, if we confider the various attitudes, whidh the different dead bodies have been found in, we may eafily believe, that when any of them are taken ill, and the malady affumes the appearance of the fmall-pox, (having already experienced its fatality to whole families,), they are immediately deferted by their friends, and left to perifh, in their helplefs fituation, for want of fuftenance. Some have been found fitting on their haunches, with their heads reclined between their knees; others were leaning againft a rock, with their head refting upon it : I have feen myfelf, a woman fitting on the ground, with her knees drawn up to her fhoulders, and her face refting on the fand between her feet. Two children, a boy of fix or feven years of age, and a girl about ten, were lately picked up, labouring under the fame difeafe ; two old men, whom we had reafon to believe were the fathers of the two children, were picked up at the fame time, and brought to the hofpital, and much care taken of them : the two men lived but a few days, but the children both recovered, and feemed well fatisfied with their very comfortable jituation.. Through the means of thefe children, if they fhould retain their native language, a more intimate and friendly inter-courfe with the people of this country may in time be brought about, % Five Five or fix days after my arrival, poor Ara-ba-noo was feized with the chap, vl fmall-pox, and although every poflible means for his recovery were . — ^ ufed, he lived only till the crifis of the difeafe. Every perfon in the fettlement was much concerned for the lofs of this man. I was exceedingly concerned on hearing of the death of Captain Shea, of the marines, which happened while we were abfent; his difordcr was a general decay, which I think muft have taken place very fuddenly, for he was apparently ftrong and healthy when the Sirius failed from Port Jackfon. Several people had been loft in the woods during our abfence, and had either been killed by the natives, or perifhcd there. Another melancholy piece of information which we received on our arrival, was, that fix marines had been tried by a criminal court, and found guilty of robbing the public ftores: they were fentenced to death, and executed accordingly. It appeared upon the trial of thefe infatuated men, that they had carried on this iniquitous, (and I may add from our iituation) dangerous practice to the fettlement at large, for feveral months; and all originally occafioned by fome unfortunate connections they had made with women convicts. The fettlement had been, during our abfence, remarkably healthy. Before the Sirius failed from Port Jackfon, the governor had determined to fend a detachment of the marines, with a coniiderablc number of convicts, for the purpofe of clearing as much as might be neceflary, and preparing a tract of land at the head of this harbour, (which place I have already mentioned) in order to fow corn. When we returned from our voyage, I went up to fee what progrefs was made at chap, at tills farm, winch had been named Rofe Hill : it certainly very much vi. J J c-^v-^ exceeded my expectations ; the quantity of ground prepared for receiving *7*?- grain at the proper time, was confiderable ; a number of huts were built, the gardens were in tolerable appearance, and there was altogether every profpect, in due time, of a very extenfive farm; and we knew that if there were people enough to labour, it might be carried at leafl twenty miles to the weftward, and every foot of the ground apparently as good as that on which they were now at work; but we found here, that although the land was tolerable, there would be great, and I think an infurmountable difficulty, in attempting an extenfive farm, chiefly for want of water. At Rofe Hill, there is in dry feafons but very little water, and that by no means good ; but farther back to the weftward, you can but now and then meet with as much as will quench the thirft of a traveller: you may walk many miles, particularly in hot dry fum-mer weather, without meeting with as much as you may want for drinking; this fcarcity, though I do not pretend to any knowledge m farming, I cannot help thinking, were water wanted only for the ufe of a family, a vaft difficulty, and an inconvenience not to be got the better of, unlefs it were poflible to get water by finking wells at every half mile diftance. There have been feveral attempts made by the gentlemen here, who had little farms in the neighbourhood of Sydney Cove, to raife grain of different kinds, for the purpofe of feeding a few pigs, goats, or poultry; but although their endeavours feemed for a time to promife an ample reward, for the corn fliot up very quickly, yet it no fooner formed into ear, than the rats (with which, as. well as other vermin, this country is over-run) deftroyed the whole of their profpect: the Indian corn, which was remarkably promifing, was. deftroyed in a night; but I am forry to fiy, that fuch of the corn as had efcaped the vermin, notwithstanding its very promifing appearance in the beginning, turned. turned out the moft miferable empty ftraws I ever beheld ; the grcateft part was mere ftraw of about two or two feet and an half high, and the whole produce of a patch of an acre, when cut down, could be carried 1789-in one hand. Having, fince our arrival, examined the error of the time-keeper, wc found it amount to 5' 20", or i° 20'of longitude wefterly, which made the error, in failing the whole circle, only 00" 1i' of longitude eafterly; and as I had kept Brockbank's watch going the whole time, I examined its error alfo: I have already mentioned that it was, upon our arrival in Table-Bay, 30 oi' eaftward; but upon our return to this place, it was correct to the fraction of a fecond ; fo that whatever its errors might have been during the voyage, it had none upon our arrival. I did not keep the account of longitude by it, hut every day, when the fun could be feen, I determined our place by the time-keeper ; in doing which, I generally compared my own watch with it, both before and after the altitudes were taken, and carried it upon deck, the time-piece being fixed in the cabin. On the 6th of June, I was engaged in a party, with the governor, on jUne/>-a vifit to Broken-Bay, in order to examine fome part of that harbour which had not been (for want of time and opportunity) noticed in his lait vifit to that place; two boats were difpatched under the care of Mr. Keltic, rpafter of the Sirius, with provifions, See, And the party?, which coniifted of the governor, Captain Collins (the judge-advocate), Captain Johnfton, of the marines, Mr. White, principal furgeon of the fettlement^ Mr. Worgan, Mr. Fowcll, and myfelf, from the Sirius, and two men, all armed with mufquets, ecc. We landed on the north part of Port Jackfon, and proceeded along the fea coaft to the northward ; T ih in the courfe of our march, we had many long fandy beaches to crofs, which was a very fatiguing part of the journey : when we afcended the hills, we had frequently thick woods to pafs through, but as we often fell in with paths, which the natives in travelling along the coaft. had trod very well down, thefe paths rendered our march, not only on account of pointing to us the moft eafy and accefiible parts of the hills and woods,, but, in point of direction, the fhorteft which could be found, if we had even been better acquainted with this tract. Wc left Port Jackfon at fix o'clock in the morning, juft as the day was dawning, and arrived at the fouth branch of Broken-Bay at three in the afternoon,, after a pretty warm and fatiguing journey, loaded as we were with provifions for feveral days, water, and ammunition : when we arrived at the water-fide, we found our boats, which had left Port Jackfon at midnight, were fafely arrived. As it was now too late in the day, and we were all too much fatigued to attempt any part of the main bufinefs upon which we came here, wre pitched our tents, and hauled the Seine for fifti, and being fuccefsful, we fat down to regale ourfelves on frefli fifh and fait beef, and refted the remainder of the day. In the courfe of the little excurfions of our boats' crews this afternoon, a native woman was difcovered, concealing herfclf from our fight in the long grafs, which was at this time very wet, and I fhould have thought very uncomfortable to a poor naked creature. She had, before the arrival of our boats at this beach, been, with fome of her friends, employed in nfliing for their daily food, but were upon their approach alarmed, and they had all made their efcape, except this miferable girl, who had; juft recovered from the fmall-pox, and was very weak, and unable, from a fwelling in one of her knees, to get off to any difhnce : (he therefore crept off, and concealed herfelf in the beft manner (lie could among the grafs, not twenty yards from the fpot on which we had placed our tents.. I She She was difcovered by fome perfon who having fired at and fliot a chap. vi. hawk from a tree right over her, terrified her fo much th.it (lie cried \_ out and difcovered herfelf. Information was immediately brought to 1789. the governor, and we all went to fee this unhappy girl, whom we found, as I have already obferved, juft .recovered from the fmall-pox, and lame : flic appeared to be about 17 or 18 years of age, and had covered her debilitated and naked body with the wet grafs, having no other means of hiding herfelf; (he was very much frightened on our approaching her, and died many tears, with piteous lamentations : we underftood none of her expreffions, but felt much concern at the diftrefs fhe feemed to fuffer; we endeavoured all in our power to make her cafy, and with the afliftance of a few cxpreflions which had been collected from poor Ara-ba-noo while he was alive, we foothed her diftrefs a little, and the failors were immediately ordered to bring up fome lire, which we placed before her : we pulled fome grafs, dried it by the fire, and fpread round her to keep her warm ; then we (hot fome birds, fuch as hawks, crows, and gulls, fkinned them, and laid them on the fire to broil, together with fome fifh, which flic cat; we then gave her water, of which flic feemed to be much in want, for when the word Baa-do was mentioned, which was their expreflion for water, fhe put her tongue out to fhew how very dry her mouth was; and indeed from its appearance and colour, (lie had a confiderable degree of fever on her. Before we retired to reft for the night, we faw her again, and got fome fire-wood laid within her reach, with which (lie might, in the courfe of the night, recruit her fire; we alfo cut a large quantity of grafs, dried it, covered her well, and left her to her repofe, which, from her fituation, I conjecture was not very comfortable or refrefliing. Next morning we vifited her again ; fhe had now got pretty much the better °f her fears, and frequently called to her friends, who had left her, and T 2 who. chap., who, we knew, could be at no great diftance'from her; (lie repeated L, -v- their names in a very Loud and fhrill voice, and with much apparent I789*' anxiety and concern for the little notice they took of her intreaties to return : for we imagined, in all (lie faid when calling on them, (he was informing them, that the ftrangers were not enemies, but friends; however, all her endeavours to bring them back were ineffectual, while we remained with her ; but we were no fooner gone from the beach, than we faw fome of them come out of the wood; and as there were two canoes on the fliore belonging to this party, they launched one into^ the water, and went away. We employed this day in going up the fouth branch which the governor named Pitt Water, and fo much of the day was fpent in examining it, that when we returned down near the place where we had paffed the laft night, it was thought too late to proceed farther; we therefore encamped on the dime fpot. Our tents were no fooner up, than we went to vifit our young female friend, whom we found in a little bark hut upon the beach ; this hut was the place in which (he and her friends were enjoying themfelves, when the arrival of our boat alarmed, them. She was not alone, as before, but had with her a female child,, about two years old, and as fine a little infant of that age as I ever faw; but upon our approach (the night being cold and rainy, and the child terrified exceedingly) (lie was lying with her elbows and knees on the ground, covering the child from our fight with her body, or probably (heltcring it from the weather, but I rather think on account of its fears : on our fpeaking to her, fhe railed herfelf up, and fat on the around with her knees up to her chin, and her heels under her, and was at that moment, I think, the moft miferable fpectacle in the human-fhape I ever beheld* : the little infant could not be prevailed on to looL. • Sec the Vignette in the Title Tage. up; it lay with its face upon the ground, and one hand covering its chap. eyes. We fupplied her, as before, with birds, fifh, and fuel, and iv pulled a quantity of grafs to mike her a comfortable bed, and covered n*9-her little miferable hut fo as to keep out the weather: fhe was now fo reconciled to our frequent vifits, feeing we had nothing in view but her comfort in them, that when flie wanted baa-do, or ma-gra, which fig-nifies fifh, flic would afk for them, and when fhe did, it was always fupplied her : in the morning we vifited her again ; the child had now got fo much the better of its fears, that it would allow us to take.hold, of its hand ; I perceived, that young as it was, it had loft the two firft joints of its little finger, of the left-hand, the reafon or meaning of which we had not yet been able to learn. We gave her all the fifh we had remaining, and having put a quantity of fire-wood and water within her reach, we took our leave. We embarked in the boats, and failed acrofs the bay to the north branch, which has a very flioally and narrow entrance. Wc proceeded but a fmall diftance up, before we la-ndcd on the weft fhore and refrelhed ourfelves ; after which wc rowed round the firft opening on the eaft fide; this we followed up until we came to its head. It is very lhallo.v and narrow, and ended in a large bafon, full of flioals, and "furrounded with mangroves ; it extended near four miles to the north and eaftward ; when we returned from this branch, wc pitched our tents on the weft fliore for the night, and early the next morning we proceeded to the northward : in this route we fell in with many fhoals of confiderable extent; and ajter rowing about fix or feven miles up, we arrived at the head of it, wHich divides into two large bays, in one of which 1 obferved the latitude to be 33 26' 30'' fouth. We returned from hence to a point near the entrance of this north harbour, where we encamped and fpent- the; the night; in this harbour wc did not fee more than twenty natives, fome few of whom came and convened with us. Acrofs the mouth of this north harbour there is a bar or fpit of land, which extends from the fandy beach, or weft point of the entrance, almoft over to the eaftern fhore, and on which, from the.wind having been from the fouthward the preceding night, the fea broke prodigioufly from fide to fide, fo that near low water it was impoihble for the boats to get out; we were on that account obliged to remain there until it was more than two-thirds flood, when, in the deepeft part of the channel, where the fea did not break, we pufhed out, and pulled over for the fouth-weft arm, or harbour, up which we went; but as part of this branch had not been looked into laft winter, we entered an arm on the north fide of it, and proceeded up about a mile and a half to an ifland we had vifited the laft winter. Here we encamped for the night, and hauled the feine with great fuccefs; and from the vaft quantity of excellent mullet and other fifh caught here, it got the name of Mullet Iiland. Next morning we rowed into a branch, which the boats had been in the laft time we were here, but had not thoroughly examined; wc proceeded to the top, and found it very fhoally, extending to the northward about four miles, and navigable only for boats, having but four, five, and fix feet water in it. After having fatisficd ourfelves as to the extent of this arm, we returned to Mullet Ifland, where we caught fifh and dined : in the afternoon, the governor and myfelf went in one of the boats, leaving the reft of the party with the tents on Mullet Ifland; we entered another branch which had alfo been feen laft winter, but was not examined ; we rowed up this about feven or eight miles, until it became fo very narrow and fhoally, having fcarcely water enough to float the boat, or room to ufe the oars, that we thought it was not worth profecuting any farther difcovery at the nfk of grounding the boat, and being left during the night; we therefore returned turned to Mullet Ifland, and fpent another night upon it. This branch chap. vi. is all flioal water, only five and fix feet. v/l__ 1789, The next morning we {truck our tents and proceeded, in the boats, to ev mine a point of high land, which, from our fituation in the boat the day before, had the appearance of an iiland ; of this we were determined to be fatisfied, and we found it to be an iiland as we had conjectured. In examining this, we were led into a branch which had not before been difcoveied : we proceeded up this for a confiderable diftance, found good depth of water, and every other appearance of its being the opening of an extenfive river : we continued to row up in it the whole of this day, and in the evening we went on fliore, on the niQft commodious fpot we could find, which was a low marfhy point. Here we raifed our tents, and fpent the night: at day-light in the morning it was fo fog^y, that we were obliged to defer our departure from this fituation until ten o'clock, when the influence of the fun difpelled the mift, and we continued our courfe upwards, ftill finding good depth of water and ftrong tides ; both which we confidered as indications of a confiderable river. The whole of this day was employed in exploring and making what pro-grefs we could ; the ebb tides we obferved thus far up were coniiderably ftronger than the floods, and the water had very little the tafte of fea water; indeed, it fcarcely could be called brackilh. We continued going up until the evening, when it was found impoflible, at this time, to make any farther difcovery ; our provifions being nearly expended : we filled our water-calks, where we gave up the purfuit, and there, although the tide was high, the water was perfectly frelh. The general depth of this river w. s from three to feven fathoms, and its breadth was, from 100 to 300 fathoms. There are fome fhoals, but they generally extend fiom low mangrove or marfhy points. Its general diction, as, far:- CHAP, far as wc were up, is to the north-welt. We were, when fartheft up, '---' about twenty miles from the entrance of the fouth-weft arm of Broken- ,7S9' Bay. The banks of the river, on the loweft part, had many mangrove trees along it; higher up, reeds grew along its margin, and behind thefe reedy banks were immenfe perpendicular hills of barren, rocky •lands, with trees growing from between the rocky cliffs; the depth of the river, when we were higheft up, was fix and feven fathoms. We were fo anxious to profecute this difcovery, that we did not think of * returning until it was near dark ; and in our prefent fituation, there was not a fpot on which we could erect a tent, fo very fteep were the fhores, except where they were marfhy. We pufhed down as faff, as poflible, in order to And a landing-place, before it fhould be very late; and foon after dark, we put a-fhorc on a parcel of rocks, which was, indeed, the only fpot near on which we could find room for our tents, and here we palled the night. The morning of the next day was again foggy, until the fun had fufficient power to difperfe it; we then returned down the river, and as the wind was fair, and blew frefli, we failed down, and in the afternoon arrived in the fouth branch, or Pitt-Water, fixed our tents for the evening, and caught fome fifh, in order to fpin out our provifions. Our female friend had left this place. The governor was now determined to return as faft as poflible to Port Jackfon, and, after refting a few days, to profecute this ufeful difcovery to its fource. We ftruck the tents at night, and embarked them in the boats ; for, as the wind was northerly, it was intended they fhould fail at midnight; a wigwam was made to flicker us during the night, and a large fire before it, by which we lay till day-light. The boats having faded in th. night, we fet off at dawn of day in the morning by laud; wc found an eafier path than that by which we came, and arrived arrived at the north cove of Port Jackfon by two in the afternoon, chap. where the boats were already arrived. In our journey we fell in with \ V' _ feveral dead bodies, who had probably fallen by the fmall-pox, but they i789. were mere fkeletons, fo that it was impomble to fay of what difeafe they died. Boats were upon our arrival immediately ordered to be prepared, and provifions got ready for another excurfion, the fame party being engaged to go again, and, if poflible, trace this river to its fource. As far up as we advanced, I made an eye Iketch of it. On Sunday the 28th of June, the boats being ready, provifions cm- june 2r. barked, and the wind fair for another vifit to Broken-Bay, they failed before day-light on Monday morning; the party engaged to go by land were put on more at the north part of the harbour at fix o'clock; the lame gentlemen who were on the former expedition were on this alfo, and an addition of five marines; on the whole, our numbers amounted to about forty, including thofe in the boats : wc were all well armed, and capable of making a powerful refiftance, in cafe, as we advanced up the river, we fhould find the interior parts of the country well inhabited, and the people hoflile. Having, on our laft expedition, found a good track to travel by, we were foon in the neighbourhood of the fouth branch of Broken-Bay, at which place one boat had been ordered to meet us, in order to fave us by much the worft part of the journey. We arrived at the head of Pitt-Water before eleven o'clock, but no boat appeared, which obliged us to walk round all the bays, woods, and fwamps, between the head and entrance of this branch; by which, when we joined the boats, we were U exceedingly CHAT, exceedingly fatigued ; the weather being rather warm, and each perfon v-—' having his knap'faek and arms to carry, this laft part of our journey in-1789. creafed the diftance from twelve or fourteen miles to about twenty-five ; * in the courfe of which we had very high and fteep hills to climb, and many deep fwamps to wade through : by the time we joined the boats the clay was too far advanced to think of proceeding any farther, we therefore pitched the tents, and occupied the fpot which wc had formerly done when here. June 30. On Tuefday the 30th, we embarked in the boats at day-break, intending to reach as high up this day as poflible; we palled Mullet Iiland, and proceeded into the river, and before night, we had advanced as far up as a point on which we had refted a night the laft time we were here, and which was within three or four miles of the place, where, we left off the purfuit: here we flept for the night, and at day-light on July 1. the 1 ft of July we embarked, and after advancing a very little way beyond our far theft difcovery, the river divided into two branches, one. leading to the north-weft, the other to the fouthward j we took that, which led to the north-weft, and continued all day rowing up this arm,, which was in general fhoal water, from four to ten and twelve feet, and its breadth from about 20 to 40 fathoms ; the banks of this branch were in general immenfe perpendicular mountains" of barren rock ; in fome places the mountains did not reach the margin of the river, but fell back a little way from it, and were joined by low marfhy points, covered with reeds or ruflies, which extended from the foot of the mountains to the edge of the river. At five in the evening, we put on fliore, and raifed our tents at the foot of one of the mountains, where we found a tolerable dry fpot for that purpofe ; and in the morning of the 2d, we proceeded higher up, but this morning's progrefs was a good deal retarded tardcd by many large trees having fallen from the banks, and which, chap. reached almoft acrofs the river ; for here it was fo narrow, that it hardly ——, deferved that name: by ten o'clock we were fo far up, that we had not I7H<> room for the oars, nor indeed water to float the boats: we therefore found it neceflary to return, and before noon we put on fliore, where I took the meridian altitude of the fun, which gave our latitude 33" 21' fouth, and we judged, by the eftimated diftances marked in my (ketch, that we were about thirty-four miles above Mullet Iiland. At the place where we palfed the laft night we were examining the ground round us, as was cuftomary wherever we placed our tents for the night; and about half a mile diftant, fome of the gentlemen found a fmall hut; they faw a perfon whom they took for a native woman, and who, upon our approach, fled with great precipitation into the woods. They went to examine the hut, and found two fmall helplefs children in it; the poor little creatures were terribly frightened, but upon their being kindly treated, they feemed to recover a little from their fear. They appeared to be in great diftrefs, apparently for want of food ; they had a little fire by them, and in it was found a few wild yams, about the fize of a walnut: upon a fuppofition that the parents of thefe children would foon return, after our leaving the place, a hatchet and fome other trifles were left in the hut. Next morning, while the people were employed in ftriking the tents, fome of the gentlemen again vifited the hut which they now found unoccupied; the whole family were gone, and the hatchet, &c. were left lying by it. It is really wonderful, that thefe people fhould fet fo little value upon fuch an ufeful article as an axe certainly muft be to them; this indifference I have frequently feen in thofe who have been fhewn the ufe of it, and even when its fuperiority over their ftone hatchets has been pointed out by a comparifon. It is not caiily to be accounted for. We had now a ftrong ebb tide, and we rowed U 2 late, 148 transactions at CHAP, late, in order, if poflible, to get out of this branch before we ftopt for vi. -v——» the night. About fix o'clock in the evening we entered the fouthern 1789. branch, and very foon after encamped for the night. The next morn-Juiy 3. ing" (Friday 3d) we proceeded up this arm for about feven or eight miles, where it again divided into two branches ; thus far we found the depth from three to nine fathoms, and the breadth of the river from 100 to 150 fathoms j we took the branch which led to the northward, (the other went to the fouthward) but we had not advanced more than a quarter of a mile before we found the water very fhoally; however, as it might lead to a good country, the governor determined to go as high as the boats could find water ; we went through various windings, and met with many difficulties from the flioallynefs of the water: notwithstanding which, we made (Lift to get about 13 miles up ; the depth was from four to twelve feet, and the breadth from 20 to 50 fathoms-; the banks of this branch were the fame as the laft, high, fteep, and rocky mountains, with many trees growing down their fides, from between the rocks, where no one would believe there could be any foil to nourifh them. Both this and the laft branch we examined, probably extend many miles farther than we with our boats could trace them, but they did not appear, where we left off the examination of them, to be navigable for any veffel but the canoes of the natives, which do not draw more than two or three inches water. Wc faw feveral natives in thefe branches, but they fled into the woods on our approach : the wretched condition of the miferablc natives who have taken up their refidence, for a time, fo far back from the fea coaft, where no fifh are to be had, is far beyond my defcription; they, no doubt, have methods of fnaring or killing the different kinds of animals which are to be found here, otherwife I think it impofliblc they could exifc at any diftance from the fea j for the land, as far as we yet know, affords very little fultenanee PORT JACKSON, H9 fuftenance for the human race. Having advanced as far as poflible with ' chap. vi the boats, wc returned, and having rowed two or three miles down to a —.-j point where there was tolerable landing, we put a-more, and pitched 1789, the tents for the night. In the morning of the 4th, while the tents Jui74. were putting into the boats, I mcafured the height of the oppofitc fliore, which I found to be 250 feet perpendicular above the level of the river, which was here 30 fathoms wide: at feven o'clock we embarked, and rowed down until we came to the entrance of the fecond fouthern branch, where we found good depth of water, in fix and feven fathoms. This, from its depth, encouraged us to hope that it might extend a great diftance to the weftward: wc went up this branch about 13 or 14 miles before we put on fhore for the night: in this diftance, the general depth of water was from two to feven fathoms, and the breadth of the river from 70 to 140 fathoms ; but the country flill wore a very un-promiling afpect, being cither high rocky fhorcs, or low marfhy points. After having refted for the night, we were again under way at daylight, and this day advanced about fourteen miles againft the tide. In 5th.. the woods we frequently faw fires, and fometimes heard the natives ; in the afternoon we faw a confiderable number of people in the wood, with many fires in different places; we called to them in their own manner, by frequently repeating the word. C0-W..V, which fgnifies, come here; at laft, two men came to the water-fide with much apparent familiarity and confidence : I thought, from this circumfhnce, that they had certainly feen us before, either at Botany-Bay, Port Jackfon, or Broken-Bay ; they received a hatchet, and a wild duck, which had been juft before fliot from the boat; and in return, they threw us a fmall coil of line, made of the hair of fome animal, and alfo offered a fpear, which was refuted.. The only argument againft their having feen us. us before is, that they were the firft we had met with who appeared defirous of* making a return for any prefent they received. I Tore the banks of the river are low and covered with what we call :the pine-trees of this country; which indeed have received that name merely from the leaf, which is a good deal like the pine, but the wood is very different. The natives here, appear to live chiefly on the roots which they dig from the ground j for thefe low banks appear to have been ploughed up, as if a vaft herd of fvvine had been living on them. We put on tliore, and examined the places which had been dug, and found the wild yam in confiderable quantities, but in general very fmall, not larger than a walnut; they appear to be in the greater!: plenty on the banks of the river ; a little way back they are fcarce. We frequently, in fome of the reaches which we palled through this day, faw very near us the hills, which we fuppofe as feen from Port Jackfon, and called by the governor the Blue Mountains. At five in the evening, we put afhore at the foot of a hill, where we palled the night; and at day-light in the morning of the 5th, we embarked, and continued our way up the river; in which we ftill found good depth of water, from two to five fathoms, and 60 or 70 fathoms wide. As we advanced, we found the river to contract; very fa ft in its breadth, and the channel became fhoaler; from thefe circumftances, we had reafon to believe that we were not far from its fourcc : the ebb tides were pretty ftrong, but the floods were only perceptible by the fwelling of the water. In the evening we arrived at the foot of a high mountain, which was fpread over with lofty trees, without any underwood ; and law a pleafant looking country, covered with grafs, and without that mixture of rocky patches in every acre or two, as is common in many 9 other PORT JACKSON". I5 other places: we afcended fome diftance, and erected our tents for the chap vi. night. The river here is not more than twenty fathoms wide. In the <— night, when every tiling was ftill, we heard diftindly the roaring of what 1789. we judged to be a fall of water; and imagined from this circumftancc, that we fhould not be able to advance much farther. In the morning, we walked to fhe top of the hill, and found we were not more than five or fix miles from a long range of mountains, between which, and that where we ftood, there is a deep valley, or low country, through which, probably, a branch of this river may run. This range of mountains we fuppofed to be thofe which are feen from Port Jackfon, and called the Blue Mountains: they limit the fight to the weft-north-weft. In that range of high land there is a remarkable gully, or chafm, which is feen diilinctly at a diftance, and from which wTe appeared to be diftant about five miles. The hills on each fide of this gap were named by Governor Phillip ; on one fide the Carmarthen, on the other, the Lanfdown hills; and that on which we ftood was called Richmond-hill. In the morning of the 6th, we examined the river, which, as I have before obferved, was narrow and fhoally ; its bed was compofed of luofe round ftones and fand : it was now low water, and not a fuflicient depth to float the boats : we therefore delayed any farther attempt to get up until it fhould be near high water j and, in the mean time, determined to take a view of the country round this hill; which, had it been clear of trees, would from its commmanding height, have given a moft extenfive profpect. to the eaftward, northward, and fouthward; but the range of hills before-mentioned were ftill higher, and of courfe limited our view to the weftward. While the other gentlemen of the party were along with the governor, examining the country, I employed myfelf in taking the meridian altitude of the fun, by which I found the higheft part of the hill to be in latitude 33" 37' fouth. The gentlemen fpoke chap, fpoke highly in favour of the country as far as they walked; it was <■—*—» perfectly clear of any kind of under-wood ; the trees upon it were all ij89. very tall, and flood very wide apart; the foil was alfo examined, and found very good : a fmall patch was dug up, and a few potatoes, Indian-corn, melon, and other feeds fown. This was a common practice, when a piece of ground, favourable from its foil, and being in an unfrequented fituation, was found, to fow a few feeds of different kinds: fome of the little gardens, which had been planted in this manner, and left to nature, have been fince vifited and found thriving, others have mifcarried. After making thefe obfervations, the tide being made, we put off in the boats, and endeavoured to get higher up, but were frequently aground : by the time we had reached half a mile higher than the foot of Richmond-hill, we met the ftream fetting down fo ftrong, that it was with much difficulty we could get the boats fo high. We here found the river to divide into two narrow branches, from one of which the ftream came down with confiderable velocity, and with a fall over a range of ftones which feemed to lye acrofs its entrance : this was the fall which we had heard the night before from our fituation on the fide of Richmond-hill. We found too little water for the boats which we had with us to advance any farther, and the ftream was very ftrong, although weak to what it may reafonably be conjectured to be after heavy rains ; for here we had evident marks of the vail torrents which muft pour down from the mountains, after heavy rains. The low grounds, at fuch times, are entirely covered, and the trees with which they are overgrown, are laid down (with their tops pointing down the river,) as much as I ever fitw a field of corn after a ftorm; and where any of thefe trees have been ftrong enough to refill: in any degree the ftrength of the torrent, (for they are all lefs or more bent downwards) we faw in the clifts of the branches of fuch trees, vaft 3 quantifies quantities of large logs which had been hurried down by the force of chap. the waters, and lodged from thirty to forty feet above the common level i-- of the river; and at that height there were great quantities of grafs, 1789* reeds, and fuch other weeds as are waffled from the banks of the river, hanging to the branches. The firft notice we took of thefe figns of an extraordinary fwelling of the water, was twelve or fourteen miles lower down, and where the river is not fo confined in its breadth : there we mcafured the fame figns of fuch torrents twenty-eight feet above the furface of the water : the common rife and fall of the tide did not appear to be more than fix feet. On the banks here alfo we found yams and other roots, and had evident marks of the natives frequenting thefe parts in fearch of them for food. They have no doubt fome method of preparing thefe roots, before they can eat them j for we found one kind which fome of the company had feen the natives dig up; and with which being pleafed, as it had much the appearance of horfe-radiih, and had a fweetifh tafte, and having fwallowed a fmall quantity, it occafioned violent fpafms, cramps in the bowels, and ficknefs at the ftomach : it might probably be the cafada root. We found here many traps, for catching animals, in which we obferved the feathers of many birds, particularly the quail. We now gave up the hope of tracing this river higher up with our boats ; and, as in cafe of heavy rains fetting in, which might be expected at this feafon of the year, there would be confiderable danger, while confined in this narrow part of the river, we pufhed down and encamped the night of the 6th, about feven miles below Richmond-hill. In the July6th, morning early, we fet off on our return, and encamped on the 7th at 7th» night, about twenty-fix miles down : at feven in the morning of the 8th, we embarked again, and by four in the evening had reached a 8th, point about forty-three miles down, where we pitched our tents, for the X night, CHAP, night, which was very foggy. In our way down, we flopped, and i v' * mcafured the perpendicular height of a hill on the north fide of the 17 £9- river, (or more properly one of the banks of the river j for it is a long range of level land, and nearly perpendicular from the water ; the op-pofite more is low and marfhy j) which I found to be 399 feet: the-. July 9. river was here 120 fathoms wide. On the 9th in the morning, we proceeded to examine fome of the inferior branches ; their general diredioa was to the fouthward,. and the longeft was not more than five or fix: miles in length, and was navigable for fuch boats as ours; the general depth was th;-ee and four fathoms for about four miles up, and then fhoal water; the others were inconfiderable. In one of thefe branches we paffed the night of the 9th, and faw a few natives, who came off to us in their boats with much chcarfulnefs and good humour , I thought I had feen them before : they received a. few prefents, among which was. a looking-glafp, which we took much trouble to fhew them the ufe of:: they were fome time befoie they obferved their own figure in the glafs,, but when they did, they turned it up and looked behind it; then pointed to the water, fignifying that they could fee their figure reftcclxd as well from that. Having now examined every thjng which was thought worth our attention, we made the beft of our way to Mullct-ifland, ipth, where we landed on the 10th in the evening, and caught fome fifh. nth, This night, and all the, next day, (1 ith,) it blew a gale of wind from the fouthward, fo that we were obliged to pafs a fecond night here.. 12th, In the morning of the 12th, it was more moderate, although very fqually and unfettled ; we ftruck our tents and fiiled for Pitt-water, where about noon we encamped upon a point pretty high up : in our way, we put afliore to fill fome frefli water, and in a cave near the ftream we found a native woman, who appeared to have been dead fome time, for her fkin was as hard as a piece of leather; it was impoffible l to to know whether fhe had died of the fmall-pox or not. In the morning chap. of the 13th, as we intended to land well up this branch, in order to *—*—j avoid the mod difficult and tirefome part of the road to Port Jackfon. 1789. We embarked, after we had breakfafted, and rowed up about a couple July ij. of miles, when the party for walking went on more, each with his arms, and knapfack, containing two days provifions ; we were about half an hour in getting through the wood, which led us to the fea-coafl, where we fell into our old and well known path, and by four o'clock in the afternoon arrived at the north part of Port Jackfon, but we might as well have been fifty leagues off, for here we could have no communication either with the Sirius or the fettlement, and no boat had been ordered to meet us. We went immediately to work and made a large fire, by which we lay all night, which happened to be very cold. The next day we crolfed the hills, and came to the mouth of the north-weft harbour, but could not find the means of croffing it; mufkets had been frequently fired during the night, in hopes that fome boat might have been down the harbour fifhing, and heard them. We found this morning a canoe upon the beach, with which we had no doubt of getting two men acrofs the water, who could in a fhort time walk over to the cove where the Sirius lay ; but this profpect was difappointed by the firft man who entered the canoe having overfet her, and fhe immediately funk, and he was obliged to fwim afhorc: after this we went to work and made a catamaran, of the lighten; wood we could find, but when . fmifhed and launched, it would not, although pretty large, bear the weight of one man. It was now propofed to walk round the head of the north-weft harbour, which would have been a good long journey for at leaft two days, and our provifions were nearly expended ; to this propofal I was under the neceflity of objecting, for want of fhoes, the laft march having tore all but the foals from my feet, and they were tied X 2 on chap, on with fpun-yarn ; i therefore declined the propofed walk, and de*-\—termincd to go back to Broken-bay and rejoin the boats, which i had 17S;. no doubt of being able to effect in the courfe of that day, and with far more eafe than i could, without {hoes, climb fuch rocky mountains, and thick woods, as lay in the way round the head of the north-well harbour. But as it was likely i might fall in with fome parties of the natives in the way, i wifhcd to have a companion : Captain Collins preferred accompanying me in the intended walk, and we were juft upon the point of fetting out, when two of the people who wrere with us propofed fwimming over the water, and to crofs through the wood to the Sirius ; the diftance they had to fwim was not more than two cables length, or four hundred yards; they immediately ft ripped, and each having had a dram, they tied up in a handkerchief a ffurt, trowfers, and a pair of fhoes each, which was refted upon their fhouldcrs : thus equipped, they took the water, and in feven minutes landed on the oppofite fhore ; but one being feized with the cramp, was obliged to difengage himfelf from his bundle, which was of courfe loft : they fet oft" through the woods, and in a fhort time got on board the fhip, the one with his fhirt and trowfers, the other perfectly naked. Upon their information, a boat was fent down, and took us on board, after a pretty fatiguing journey. i cannot help here remarking how providential it was, that we did not all agree to, walk round the north-weft harbour. At eight in the morning we heard the report of a great gun, which led me to fufpect that, fome perfon belonging to the Sirius was miffing, and had probably been loft in the woods; we frequently fired mufkets that morning, and fometimes imagined we heard a mufket at a confiderable diftance in the woods, in confequence of this fufpicion, we frequently fired feveral together, and as often heard the report of that which we believed was meant to anfwer us; in fhort, by means of thefe repeated vollieSfc P 0 R T J A C K S O N. vollies, wc drew nearer to that which anfwered us, and by hallooing all together, found we had got within hearing of the perfon who had anfwered our firing; for, after calling out, we liftened attentively, and heard a very faint voice in anfwer ; in that direction we walked, and at laft, by frequent calling, and anfwering, we found the perfon out, who proved to be Peter White, fail-maker of the Sirius ; who had been four days loft, and when he fet out from the fhip had not more than four ounces of bifcuit with him, one ounce of which he had ftill left; he was very faint, and appeared to us to be ft lipid and almoft exhaufted, for he ftaggercd like a man drunk ; we took him with us, and by giving him fuch provifions as we had, in fmall proportions, he was in a few hours a good deal recovered ; but I think if he had not been found as he was, in twenty-four hours more he would not have been able to make any farther effort to favc himfelf, and muft have periflied where he lay down. It is remarkable, that the flint of his gun being worn to a flump, lie could not get lire out of it the whole of the day before, when trying to fhoot fome birds for his fubfiftence, until night came on, when it was neceflary for him to have a fire to fleep by; he then tried, it again with very little hope of fucceeding, but contrary to his expectations he got a fire and fat by it the whole night; the next morning it failed him repeatedly, until he had occafion to anfwer our mufquets,. when it ftruck fire every time he wifhed to anfwer us, otherwife, in all probability, we fhould not have found him. This is exactly his own account. In the end of Auguft, the governor having expreffed' a wifli to have a furvey made of Broken-Bay and Botany-Bay, I offered to perform that fervice. The Sirius had fome time ago been removed from Sydney Cove, to a cove on the north fide of the harbour, much more convenient venient for giving her thofe repairs of which fhe now ftood fo much in need. The carpenter and his crew, who had been employed on fliore upon the bufinefs of the fettlement, ever fince our return from the laft. voyage, were now ordered on board, to attend the repairs of the fhip ; a temporary wharf was built by the Slip's company, and a piece of ground levelled to receive the provifions and flores : every perfon was now employed in lightening the fhip, and in cutting down timber for the repairs wanted. A furvcy upon the defects of the fhip was ordered by Captain Phillip, and fhe was reported to be very weak in her upper works; feveral bolts were decayed under her wales, which occafioned her making much water at fea; and that it was abfolutely neceflary to examine as many of the butt bolts as poffible: it was alfo thought neceflary to fix feven pair of top riders on each fide, to ftrengthen her tipper works; various other defects were given in. While the fhip's company were employed in lightening the fhip, and the carpenters were cutting down timber for riders and plank, I determined, before any thing material in the repairs was fet about, to go round and make a furvey of Broken-Bay : in this excurfion I was accompanied by feveral gentlemen of the fettlement j the boats were difpatched round, under the care of Lieutenant Bradley, by whom, and Lieutenant Ball, of the Supply, I. was afTifted in this works the party went by land, but as T wifhed alfo to make a fketch of the coaft between the two harbours, we determined to be two days on the journey, and to lye all night in the woods. After taking a fketch of the coaft, we arrived at Pitt-Water, and joined the boats in the afternoon of the fecond day. We vifited all thofe parts, which are navigable for fliipping, and having before very particularly founded and examined all the branches here, the bufinefs was finiihed in little more than a fortnight. Mr. Bradley returned with the boats, and we walked along fhore to Port Jackfon. The The entrance of Broken-Bay lies in latitude 33° 34/ fouth, and Ion- chap. vi. " githde 1510 27' eaft 3 the bay is large and clear; the diftance from north u-^-L^j to fouth head, is two miles, and the depth is eight, ten, and twelve i789> fathoms; but as you run up the bay it fhoals to fix, feven, and live fathoms. Juft within the north head of the bay is the entrance of the northern branch, which, from the flioalnefs of the water, is only navigable for boats, or fmall veffels ; the channel going in is very narrow, occafioned by a long fpit of find, which extends from a low fandy point on the weft fide of the entrance, and on which, when the wind is from the eaftward, the fea breaks very high. A little within the fouth head of the bay is the entrance of the Southern Branch or Pitt-Water ; this is a good harbour, though the entrance is rendered rather narrow by a fhoal bank, which extends from the eaftern point full two-thirds acrofs; keep the well flioie on board, which is pretty bold, and is a high, fteep, rocky point, and fleer right up the branch ; three fathoms is the moft you will have at low water, and that depth is only in the narrows, which are of very fhort extent, for as you run up, you very foon deepen to four, five, fix, and eight fathoms ; to the ftioal which narrows the entrance, it is very gradual foundings. When yon are above the fecond point on the weft fhore, you have good depth of water and good room; you may run up in mid-channel without fear; both fliores are pretty bold to, except off the points, from fome of which it is fhoal a fmall diftance : in this branch there are feveral coves, in which a fhip might lighten and careen ; there is alfo frefli water in various parts of this harbour, with wood in abundance, and fifh may be caught in all the fandy bays. The entrance of this branch is divided from the fouth-weft arm by feveral rocky points ; the land over them high and fteep; between which are fome fmall fandy hays; and right off the mouth of this arm is a very high rocky ifland, of but fmall extent; it* CHAP, its eaftern end is very high and perpendicular; this iiland is a good v-—A-1 mark, for any part of the bay may be known, with certainty, by the 17*9- fituation of it, which the chart will point out. If a ft ranger were coming in here for fhelter in a gale of wind, I would recommend his puihing up the fouth-wed: arm, and fleering in for the ifland, which is now called Mount Elliot, from its ftmilarity to the north end of Gibraltar Rock : you may pafs on either fide, but the fouth fide is faireft for going up the fouth-weft arm; keep mid-channel between the iiland and fouth fhore : this fliore is fo bold that you may run within two cables length of it. In your way up you will perceive a branch on the north fide, which runs up north-wen:; when thus high, you are above a bank -or middle ground, on which the leaft water is 16 feet; you may, by keeping near the fhore, pafs on either fide of this fhoal, which has gradual foundings to it; the fouth fide has moft room and deepeft water; the north fide has five fathoms: when above this, you may keep in the middle, if you wifTi to go higher, and the leaft water will be five or fix fathoms for feveral miles higher: from this fouth-weft arm feveral branches extend, moft of which have good depth of water, but the chart will be the beft guide. If you wifh to enter the north-weft branch, enter it by keeping the larboard fhore on board, and for fome diftance up, as from the ftarboard fhore a fhoal extends one-third of the diftance over. After having refted a few days, I determined not to lofe any time, but go immediately and make a furvey of Botany-Bay, while the weather was cool and pleafant. Towards the end of September, two boats with provifions, tents, &c. were got ready, and difpatched round, under the care of Mr. Keltic, the mafter of the Sirius, by whom, and Mr. Blackburn, the mafter of the Supply, I was aflifted in my work at Botany- I niulull:/}//'//.,-//,,/ ;»„ S,,,,^. i:;y. ,,v ,,.St(M.k().,|,- riruulilly 'JJotany-Bay. A few gentlemen of the fettlement having fignified a chap. avifh to accompany me, the party refolved to walk over and meet the c—v—,. boats there; this route being now well known, and the path well *789-trodden, it was not an unpleafant walk. We joined the boats about noon, and found our tents pitched. The fame afternoon we began our operations, and in about ten days had finifhed the furvey of the bay. The anchorage in this bay, as I have before obferved, is extenfive, and the paffage into it. eafy; there is a clufter of rocks, which lie fouth-fouth-eaft, about two cables length from a little bare iiland on the north fliore, on which the fea frequently breaks very high ; but if you keep Cape Banks open, you will avoid them; both fliores are bold to, till you come thus high, A little above Point Southerland (fouth fhore) is another patch of rocks, which, to avoid in turning, keep the land below this point open. Although the anchorage here is extenfive, yet by looking at the chart, it will appear a fmall fpot for fo very large a piece of water : from both the north and fouth fides, and from the bottom of the bay, the flats run off a great diftance, from four to fifteen feet water. I did formerly believe, that there was an eafy channel over the flats into the weft river, but on this examination I think it rather difficult, if practicable at all, as the foundings are very irregular. This river in fome parts has good depth, and that near and within its entrance; but higher up it is all fhoal water, and full of knowls of fand ; in fhort, it is only to be navigated by boats : it has two branches, in which there are feveral coves, or bays, containing fhoal water. After having gone to the head of this river, and returned to the bay again, we then entered a fmall river which empties itfelf in the north-weft part of the bay; this river, as far as I went up, which was about five miles, is all fhoal water (it has fince been examined to the head by Xieutenant Bradley) : in fhort, thefe rivers were wkb me no object at Y this c^p* this time to throw away time upon; I therefore made no other furvey V tlian an eye fketch; every reach is laid down true with refpect to I:S9* direction ; the foundings are the depth at or near lovyvater; and the diftance is eftimated by fhort portions at a time, that they might be the more correct. It will eafily be perceived, by looking at the draft of this bay, that it is not poflible to lie land locked with a fhip in any part of it; you will always be expofed to the large fea which tumbles in here with an eafterly wind. The edge of the flatts (in three fathoms) is determined by many interferons, fo that its extent is pretty nearly afecrtained. In the end of October it was judged neceffary to fhorten the allowance of provifions one-third; for although we might expect ftare-fhips from England by the end of January, 1790, yet as there did not remain above five months provifions in the fettlement, the governor thought it neceffary to ilTuc an order for two-thirds allowance to commence the November i. ift of November. Having finiflied the placing of the top riders in the Sirius by the end: of October, we took our provifions and ftores on board; and on the T_th. 7th of November, we moved the fhip from Careening Cove over to; Sydney Cove. A few days before that time, John Mara, the gunner's mate, had been miffing, and was fuppofed to have been loft in the-woods; parties were fent out in fearch of him : the third day after he difappeared, I was going up the harbour in a boat early in the morning, and fome diftance up, I thought I heard the voice of a man upon the north fhore; we lay upon the oars a confiderable time, and liftcned attentively; we again heard the voice, and rowed immediately towards-, that part of the fliore from whence the voice came, and there we found. the the perfon miffing : he was fitting upon a rock, was exceedingly faint, and fcarcely able to get into the boat; having had nothing to eat during i his abfence but an herb which the people ufe by way of tea, and which is fo palatable they can drink it without fugar; it has exactly the tafte of liquorifh root. I interrogated him with refpect to the manner of his lofing himfelf; he fiid, " That having been fent on fhore in the " evening to fill a few water-cafks, which were landed at a run of " water near the fhip, and that having juft before he was fent on fliore courfe of five or fix weeks, return to us with the very comfortable neW3 l79°« of arrivals from England. However, after the expiration of that time, during which we looked anxioufly to the fea, our fituation began to wear a very alarming afpect. We now had no doubt, but that in con-fequence of a difappointment in the expected arrivals, the governor had found it neceflary to difpatch Lieutenant Ball to fome European fettlement, and that he could not relieve us with provifions from Port Jack-May 14. fon. In confequence of this deplorable fituation, on the 14th of May, the officers compofing the council met the lieutenant-governor agreeable to appointment, and publifhed the following orders:—" At a. " meeting of the governor and council held to confider of the very ex-" haufted ftate of the provifions in this fettlement, and to confult upon ** what mean3 are moft proper to be purfued, in order to preferve life " until fuch time as we may be relieved by fome arrivals from England, " of which we have been fo long in expectation, but probably difap-" pointed by fome unfortunate accident having happened to the fhips " intended for this country. The ftate of the provifions having been " laid before the council, and the alarming fituation of the fettlemerft " having been taken into the moft ferious confideration, the following ** ratio of provifions was unanimoufly refolved and ordered to take place 15th. " on Saturday the 15th inftant, viz. " Flour—three pounds per week, for every grown perfon. ** Beef—one pound and an half per ditto ; or, in lieu of the bee£ ** 17 ounces of pork. *' Rice—one pound per ditto. ? Children above twelve months old, half the above ratio. Children «< under <( under twelve months old, one pound and an half of flour and a chap, vjj " pound of rice per week. In future, all crimes which may by any *' three members of the council be confidered as not of a capital nature, 1790* crew and marines off this fpot, which has coft me fo much diftrefs. As foon as the above fhips arrived, and we had communication with them; for their fafety, as well as for the more expeditioufly landing the provifions, I fent Lieutenant Bradley on board the one, he being now perfectly acquainted with the fet of the tides, their uncertainty, and all the other dangers around the iiland ; I alfo fent Mr. Donovan, a mid-fhipman, on board the other, he having been near two years upon duty* on this iiland, and was well acquainted with the above particulars : this afiiftance enabled them at all proper times to make more free with the^ fhore. Mr. Keltie, the mafter of the Sirius, and Mr. Brooks, ther boatfwain, attended with me the whole day at the landing-place; the boats employed on this bufinefs were manned by the Sirius's crew -r fo that every poflible attention to prevent danger or accident was ufed :. Auguft 17. but, notwithstanding which, on the 17th of Auguft, in what was con-fidered as good landing, one of the boats, in coming into the paiTage, was overtaken by a fucceflion of heavy furfs, which threw her on one of the reefs, where fhe parted in lefs than two minutes,, and feven people were drowned. I was with feveral other ofticers within twenty yards of them, and with at leaft thirty people betide, and could render them very little affiftance. Of the perfons who were drowned, there were two of the boat's crew, who belonged to the Sirius; three women convicts, who were coming from the fhip in this boat, a child, and one convict man, who went off with many others to try to fave the women. There were two women brought on fhore, by the exertions of the people on the reef, who were, whea landed, apparently dead, but recovered by the the furgeons; one was mother of the child which was loft ; one convict chap. man, who was exerting himfelf to fave others, was himfelf brought on fliore apparently drowned, but was alfo brought to again. The people who were loft, were earned out by the outfet from the fhore, which at a certain time of tide is fo ftrong that a boat can fcarcely pull a-head againft it, even when calm. This ferves to convince me of the unfounded illibe-rality of an obfervation which I have feen in a certain publication, lately come out from England, wherein it is mentioned, when fpeaking of this ifland, that there was a boat's crew drowned at a certain time, but that it was occafioned by the imprudence of the midftiipman, who did not attend to the orders which were given him: yet certain it is every officer here, at this time, was fully fatisfied it had not been in his power to obey, owing to the out-fet above-mentioned: and therefore it is equally certain, the reflection upon that gentleman's conduct was highly unjuft. If there had been any act of imprudence committed at that time, it was not by the midftiipman, whofe duty it was to obey orders, but by fending in that narrow and intricate paffage, one boat to meet another, where they muft be in each other's way, and fubject, by that means, (if a furf fhould rife at the moment) to very great danger. ■ I fonnd it neceflary, in unloading the fhips which arrived at this time, (in confequence of feeing the boats going out and meeting thofe coming in confiderably endangered by the entangling their oars, fo ■ narrow is the paffage in its moft dangerous part,) to give orders that no boat fhould put off from the fhore, when a loaded boat was near in,. nor indeed until fuch loaded boat was fafely landed. The arrival of fupplies for our relief at this very critical juncture, was truly comfortable, and a ftrong inftance of the kindnefs of Divine Providence to us: for our great and indeed only refource began to fail us j very err a p. very faft,—the Mqunt Pitt birds, on which it may juftly be faid we had Vir. u—»---1 for a very confiderable time principally lived, were now very fcarce; many 1790. people who went out to catch them, were frequently, after remaining a whole night on the ground, where they were, during the plentiful feafon, fo very numerous, contented to bring in fix or eight birds, and were fometimes unable to find one. The fifh alfo failed us entirely ; for the fhips, during the time they were cruizing about the ifland and landing the provifions, did not catch one fifh: it will therefore appear, that had not thefe fupplies arrived fo timefully, or had they been detained fix weeks longer, through any accident, or other caufe, what a deplorable fituation we mould have been reduced to: thank God, fuch confequences as muft have attended it, were prevented by this providential relief, and the dejected gloom, and pale fickly look, which was to be feen in every countenance, now gave way to a chearful and happy appearance of fatisfaclion. In the month of January, 1791, finding it impoflible to get any of the remaining ftores out, which were under the lower and orlop decks of the wreck, I determined to attempt getting the guns out, which, until then, I did not incline to try j the gun deck being in fo infirm a ftate, I was fufpicious, that by moving the guns, which had hitherto (being houfed) hung chiefly by the bolts in the fide, it might caufe the deck to fall in, as the beams, from the opening of the fhip's fides, did but barely keep hold of the clamp, the bolts of the knees being all broken : had this deck fallen in upon the others, it would have prevented every endeavour to fave fuch ftores as were under it, and which, from time to time, by the alterations which every heavy furf made on the w reek, we were fometimes enabled to get at: however, after every thing, which there was any poffibihty of getting at, was faved, we began with January, I7yi. with the euns, and in a few days got every gun and carriage on fhore, chap. vu. by means of a traveller upon a nine inch hawfer ; there were only of our i—» ordnance two carronades loft, which were carried away by the fall of 1791. the mafts. We had juft compleated this bufinefs of the guns, when a fail was difcovered in the offing, which we all believed to be the Gorgon, that we had fo long expected j but upon her nearer approach, we difcovered it to be the Supply armed tender. She had been, upon her return from Norfolk Ifland with the account of our misfortune, immediately difpatched to Batavia 5 where Lieutenant Ball was directed to endeavour to hire a veflfel, and to load her with fuch articles of provifions as he could procure, for the relief of the fettlement: this fervice Mr. Ball fucceeded in *> having procured a Dutch fnow, of about 300 tons, and put on board fuch provifions as he could procure ; confifting of beef, pork, flour, rice, and various hofpital ftores. The feafon, at Batavia, while the Supply was there, was very fickly he loft many of his men by fevers, and among the number was Mr. Newton Fowell, the fecond lieutenant of the Sirius, who had been put on board to aflift in bringing the veflel, which might be hired, to Port Jackfon. I was exceedingly concerned for the lofs of this young gentleman, who was a good, well difpofed, and promifing young man. Mr. Rofs, the gunner of the Sirius, who had been left at Port Jackfon on duty, when fhe failed for Norfolk Ifland, died alfo at Batavia: he had been put on board the Supply, in order to be landed at Norfolk Ifland, if fhe fhould be able to reach that place in her way to Batavia. After the return of the Supply to iJort Jackfon, fhe was found to require fome repairs, which having been compleated, fhe was ordered upon the fervice wherein "we now found her, viz. bringing a few ftores for Norfolk Ifland, 5 with CHAP, with orders to embark the remaining officers and crew of the Sirius, vii. . '—t—' and to return with them to Port Jackfon. This information I re- ;i79"« ceived with joy, as our fituation was now become exceedingly irk-fome : we had been upon this fmall ifland eleven months, and during great part of that time, through various caufes, had been oppreffed by feelings more diftreffing than I can find words to exprefs. On the i ith February ii, of February, I embarked, with the officers and fhip's company, on board the Supply, having taken my leave of a place which had cofl me fo much diftrefs and vexation. We had fine weather during our paffage <*7th. to Port Jackfon, where we arrived on the 27th, and were kindly and hofpitably received by all our friends there. I now underftood from die governor, that he had entered into a contract with the mafter of the Dutch fnow, for carrying the officers and ihip's company of the Sirius to England a piece of information which I did not by any means feel a pleafure in hearing: for, anxious as I was to reach England as foon as poflible, I fhould with much patience rather have waited the arrival of an Englifh fhip, than to have embarked under the direction, or at the .difpofal, of a foreigner: however, preparations were then making for jfending us off as faft as poffible. As I have fpent fo much time upon an ifland, which has of late been much fpoken of, and of which many flattering accounts feem to have .been given, it will be expected that I fhould fay fomething concerning it* Norfolk Norfolk Island, rLa^itude 290 02' fouth. Mount Pitt, or the higheft land, lies in] Longitude 168" 05' eaft of l the meridian of Greenwich. Ships, on making Norfolk Ifland *, may ftand boldly in, there not being any thing farther out than half a mile from the fhore to take them up If the wind is weft to fouth or fouth-eaft, there is generally too much furf in Sydney-Bay for boats to land, which circumftance is fignified from the fliore by not hoifting any flag at the lower flag-ftaff; in which cafe you will generally find.good landing in Cafcade-Bay, where I think there would not be any difficulty in landing provifions from a fhip. If fhe fhould put in here, fhe might always be getting her cargo out either there or at Sydney-Bay, as the. winds that prevent landing in Cafcade-Bay generally make fmooth water in Sydney-Bay. People may at timesfcbe landed in Ball-Bay, Duncombe-Bay, and Anfon's-Bay, but neither ftores nor provifions can be landed, on account of the perpendicular hills that furround them. The ground of the north fide of the ifland is clearer of rocks than in Sydney-Bay. Great attention fhould be paid to the tides, and on the fouth fide of the ifland particularly j with foutherly and fouth-eaft winds I have known the. tide fhift fix points, at different times, in the fpace of half an hour; and if you cannot lie up fouth-iouth-weft, ftanding off upon the larboard tack, the ebb tide will heave you in upon the fhore. There is a mud bank to the north-eaft by north of Nepcan's ifland,. where a fhip might fafely anchor in wefterly winds, and prevent being driven off Norfolk Ifland. * The remarks and directions for Norfolk Ifland :M Sydney-Bay were made by Captain Bradley. Cc Sydns .r Sydney Bay*, Lies in latitude 290 05' fouth ; longitude 1680 02' eaft ; and variation ii° 00' eaft. The tide flows full, and changes at three quarters paft feven, and rifes from five to feven feet: the flood runs to the fouth-weft by fouth; and the ebb to the north-eaft by north. In general the tides are equal each way, the ebbs and the flows regular along the ihore fix each tide : the eaftern tide is ftronger than the weftern tide; fometimes the eaftern tide runs feveral hours beyond its ufual courfe, and fometimes the weftern tide thus irregularly, which irregularities, although they feldom happen, make it neceflary to bring to, and try the tide before you come within the outer part of the Nepean Ifland ; and be aware of an indraught, which fometimes fets into the bight on the weft fide of the bay, on both tides, while you are baffled by the fouth-eaft and foutherly winds, as you come in with Sydney-Bay. All within Nepean Ifland is foul ground, and very irregular foundings, and no fafe palfage between it and Point Hunter; but if a fhip fhould be prefTed by neceffity, I would recommend keeping within half a cable's length of Nepean Ifland, after having paffed "the bed of rocks to the weftward of the little bay. Norfolk Ifland lies north-weft by north and fouth-eaft by fouth, and is in this direction about five miles long, and nearly three in breadth x It is very thickly covered with wood, of which there are fix or feven different kinds, and fome I believe might be applied to naval purpofes. The Pines, which has been particularly fpoken of by Captain Cook, and * For Sydney-Bay, Norfolk Iiland, upon a large fcale, fee Phillip's Voyage. i by by others, who have lately vifited this ifland, is the'moft confpicuous of any tree here ; they grow to a prodigious fize, and are proportionably tall, l. being from 150 to 200 feet, and in circumference from 12 to 14 feet, fome to 28 and 30 feet. Thefe trees, from their immenfe height, have a very noble "appearance, being in general very ftraight, and free from branches, to 40, fometimes 60 feet, above the ground; they have been by fome thought fit for mafts, for mips of any fize; in length and; diameter they certainly are, but with refpecl to quality they are, in my opinion, wholly unfit; even admitting them to be found, which, from experience, I know is feldom the cafe. I employed the carpenters of the Sirius, while here, to cut down a few flicks, which it was- intended fhould be fent home by the firft opportunity, in order for trial in his Majefty's dock-yards, to fee if they were, as had been faid, fit for his. Majefty's navy, or not. In providing a top-maft and a top-fail-yard for a feventy-four gun fhip, a thirty-two, a twenty, or a ftoop, and one rough fpar, in all feven flicks, 34 trees were cut down, 27 of which were found defective. When thefe trees were falling, it was obferved that moft of them difcharged a confiderable quantity of clear water, which continued to flow at every frefh cut of the axe ; there is no turpentine in thefe trees but what circulates between the bark and body of the tree, and which is foluble in water. It is a very fliort grained and fpongy kind of timber, and I think fit only for houfe-building, for which we know it to be very ufeful. When frefli cut down, five out of fix will fink in water,, the wood is fo exceedingly heavy : and, if we fuppofe for a moment, that great part of the pine timber were fit for naval purpofes, the great difficulty, and indeed I may fry impOftibility, of getting it from the interior parts of the ifland to the fea, would render it of little value, if defigned for mafts; but if for plank, it could be cut up where fallen. C c z Thofe Cvn ?* Thofe which grow on the fouth-eaft; point of the iiland, v^here fhe -v—' land is low, are thofe which have hitherto been made ufe of. Norfolk l?9J' Ifland, if correctly laid down in a plan, with all the hills and vallies re-prefented accurately, would very much refemble the waves of the fea in a gale of wind; for it is compofed wholly of long, narrow, and very fteep ridges of hills, with deep gullies, which are as narrow at the bottom as the hills are on the top, fo that there is fcarcely any level country upon it; but as viewed from the fea, it appears quite level, the different ridges being nearly the fame in height. Arthur's Vale, which is near the fettlement, and the firft place which was cleared for cultivation, is a pretty fpot of level ground, and the moft extenfive flat yet cleared ; it contains eleven acres. This very great unevennefs of the ground occafions much labour in cultivation, and renders it wholly impoftible to ufe the plough, even if the ground were fufliciently cleared, and there were cattle to work ; every labour of that kind muft be done by hand. There was, when "I left the ifland, in February, 1791, fomething more than 100 acres cleared for th© public, exclufivc of private gardens, but all the roots of the trees were left in the ground, which would no doubt occupy a fifth part of it, for many of them were very large. The foil over the whole of this ifland is g nerally allowed to be remarkably fine, and it is very deep; mdeed, the luxuriance with which almoft every thing grows fumciently indicates a very rich foil : it feems to be compofed principally of a deep, fit clay, and decayed vegetable matter ; in fliort, without pretending to natural knowledge, that unhappily I do not pofTefs, I fhall only obfervc, that A more luxuriant foil I .never met with in any part of the world. The The flax plant mentioned by Captain Cook grows chiefly on the fea chap. vii. coaft, or on points which project into the fea ; but as thefe points feem «, -.-to have the fame kind of foil as the other parts of the ifland, there can be '791-no doubt of its fucceeding in the interior parts, if planted there. In the very fanguine opinions which we find have been given of this ifland, fince we arrived in this fouthern part of the world, it appears that the fize of it has been wholly overlooked, otherwife I think fuch expectations and opinions of its value, as appears to have been entertained, could not have taken place. I only judge of fuch expectations by the number of people which Governor Phillip has thought proper to fend there : opinions have been given, that it will maintain 2000 inhabitants; if it were all cleared and cultivated, it would no doubt furnifh many of the ncceffaries of life for fuch a number; but in its prefent ftate, I fhould think a fourth part of that number too many, and, in my humble opinion, they fhould be fuch as have forfeited every hope of feeing their native country again; fuch a defcription of people would find it their particular in t ere ft to be induftrious, as their exiftence might depend upon it. The crops here arc very fubject to blights from the fea winds, and there are immenfe numbers of the grub worm and caterpillars : there is alfo a fly of a very deflructive nature to the gardens and corn ; but when fuch vermin do not appear until the crops have arrived at a certain age, and have gained their ftrength, their effects are not fo very ruinous; there is no certain period at which they appear; probably when a large extent of ground is cleared thefe vermin may not be fo frequent. Indian corn grows here with great advantage, producing from forty to fifty bufhels an acre, planted with about a peck. This little iiland is extraordinary well watered; there are feveral fine ftreams which feem to flow from the body of Mount Pitt, and empty tbcrnielves on both fides of the ifland into the fea. On the north fide, in Cafcade-Bay, there are two 7 pretty pretty falls from fteep cliffs into the fea; there are two ftreams upon, this iiland, which I have often noticed even in very dry weather, and thought them capable of turning a mill. With refpecf. to landing upon the fhore, as it is frequently attended with great difficulty and danger, ftores fhould never be fent here but in the fummer time, when there is much fine weather and eafy landing y but when the landing is impracticable in Sydney-Bay, it is poflible to get light ftores a-fhore in Cafcade-Bay, which will then be fmooth, if it do not blow hard; when it does, the whole ifland is inaccefiible,, for it is not of fufficient extent to prevent the fea, occafioned by bad weather, from affecting every part of the fliore. A TABLE, t99 NORFOLK ISLAND. ' IjLE, diftinguiiliinnr thofe Days on which Landing was good, and thofe of High Surf, when then* ^..1 n I * Landing^ rr~—■----______ 2**y'« Ship Siaivi •» on a Reef, in '"•"v-Bay, Nor. '"•'•land, Marc!) '790. Frcfh gait- 19 Ditto 2c Oitto 21 Dftta 22 Ditto Squ.iliy Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto Freih gale D.tto Strcrn? pale April, 1790. 1 ' Winds, &c. N. B. N. E. N. W. s. w. $ South. B. N. E. Eaft. E. S. E Lart. Baft. N. E. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. S. E. S. E. S. E. E. S. E. E. S. E. Eaft. Variable S. E. E. S. E. S. E. Eaft. E. S. E. E. S. E. E. S. E. Eaft. ■Strong gale-Ditto Moderate Ditto Light airs Moderate D.tto .Squally Ditto Ditto -Strong pales Modci ate Ditto Light breeze Modcate Frefh gale Ditto Ditto Ditto Moderate Ditt> Light airs Frelh gale Ditto Squally Ditto Strong gale Ditto Ditto Ditto 1790. Winds, arc iouth. N.B Strong gait-Ditto Moderate Frtft gale M< d< i.,tc Ditto Ditto Ditto I qu.illy Moderate Ditto D.tto Ditto Ditto Ditto Light airs Squally St!°n& gale Ditto Mt derate Ditto D.tto Ditto Ditto stiong gnle ■'nfh gale Ditto D.tto Strong gale D.tto '4 Winds, &c. halt. N. W. S. W. South. S. E. N. E. N. N.W. S. W. S. W. W.N.W, S. W. S. W. N. W. N.W. S. W. South. North. North. N. N.W. N. W. S. W. S. W. S. W. S. W. Variable B. N. E. E. S. E. Baft. N. E. N. E. N. E. Moderate Squa'ly Indtrate Ditto Ditto Ditto* Strong gale Diet > Frefh gale Squally Light airs Fufh gale Moderate Ditto Strong gale Frelh £alc Moderate Ditto Ditto Freih gale Ditto Squally Ditto Moderate Ditto Fitlh gaJe Ditto Moderate Frelh gale Ditto Moderate Ma>, 1790. 1\ ? Winds, tec. B< N. E. N. E. South. S. S. W. South. S.S. E. Variable Variable s. s. w. s. s. w. S. S. E. N. W. Weft. W. S.W. W.N.W. South. S. W. s. s. w. s. s. w. Weft. Weft. w.s.w. w.s.w s. s. w. s. s. w. S. S. E. E. S. E. E. S.E. Eaft. E. N. E. f relh gale Moderate Ditto Ditto 1 it fh ijale Ditto Light breeze Ditto Ditto Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto Frcfh g ilc Squally Moderate Ditto Frcfh gale Ditto Ditto Strong gale Moderate Ditto Hard gale Ditto Freih gale Ditto Moderate Frefh gale M< derate Ditto *1 24 Winds, Sec. N. E. North. N. W. S. W. S. W. s. w. Variable N. E. N. E. Variable w.s.w. s. w. s. w. s. w. South. S. S. W. S. E. S. E. South. S. S. E. S.S. E. North. N. W. S. W. South. S( uth. South. E. N. E N. E. N. E. Frefli gale Ditto D:tto strong gale Ditto Ditto Moderate Frelh gale Hard gale Frefh gale Ditto D.tto Moderate Light airs Hard gale Strong gale Ditto Frefli gale Ditto Ditto Moderate Frcfh gale Strong gale Ditto Ditto Dit o Modi-rate Ditto Ditto Ditto july, i7; if) 28 W;nds, Sec. N. E. North. N. W. 4JS. S. \V. ;. s. w. s. w. South. s. w. itrong gale Jitto Moderate Strong gale Hard g le Ditto Freih gale Moderate N. W. S |uaUy S. w. Weft. S. W. 13'S. S. W. *4 S. W. s. w. s. w. s. w. N. W. Weft. Variable S. W. S. W. S. W. W. S.W 25 S. S. E. S. S. E. N. E. N. N. E, N. W. Weft. 31 W.S.W Jiror.g gale fard gala Sttong gale Ditto Ditto Moderate Ditto Ditto Light breeze Strong gaie ■ loderate jtronz, gale Ji'to H.itd gale Strong gale Ditto Moderate Jght breeze '■' ode rate Strong gale Hard gale Ditto Aucuit, 17.0. NfivtMniii, 1790- Winds, &c. N. E. Eaft. S. E. S. E. S. E. Variable N. W. N. W. N. W. S. W. S. E, S. E. S. W. South. South. S uth. S. E. S. E. S.E. E. S. E. E. N. B. Variable N. E. E. N. E. E. N. E. N. N. E. N. W. S. W. S. W. South. Strong gale Frefh gale Model ate Ditto Ditto Ditto Frefli gale Ditto Strong gale Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Light airs Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto L ght breeze Moderate Frcfh gale Ditto DkCKMBEl, 17'yO. *5 Winds, Sec. South. s. w. S. w. V triable Variable North. E. N. E. F. . N. 1-.. E. N. E. E. N. E E. N. E Eaft. N. E. N. W. N. W. N. W. s. w. S.S. w s. w. S. E. Variable Variable Variable Well. W.S.W. s. w. w.s.w. South. S. E. E. S. E. E. S. E. Frelh gale Modei ate Light airs Ditto Ditto irefh gale Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Moderate Ditto Ditto Fufh gale Ditto Ditto Moderate Light airs Ditto Ditto Frefh gale Ditto Moderate fit gale Moderate Ditto Frefh gale Mud .-• ate Jan uak v, 1791. Winds, Sec. 30 E. S. E Eaft. Variable N. E. N. i'.. N. E. E. N. E. Eaft. E. N. E. Variable S. E. S. E. S. W Variable Weft. Welt. S. S.W. EafL Va-iable Eart. tail. Eaft. Eaft. E. N. B. Variable Variable E. S. E. Variable w.sw. s. w. S. E. Moderate Light airs Ditto Ditto Prefll gale Ditto Ditto Strong gale Moderate Light airs Moderate Ditto Ditto Light a'rs Freih gate Ditto Ditto Moderate I >.r-.i Frcfh gale Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto Light airs D.tto Moderate Light a:is Frelh gale Ditto Moderate Wind*, &c. is S.W. s. w s.w. S. W. s. w. s. w. N. W. N. W. Welt. S. S. W. South. S.E. Eaft. N. E. S. VV. Weft. Weft. S. W. S. S. W. o S. S. E. S.S. E. Variable S. E. Eaft. E. N. E. N. E. Noith. N.W. Weft. W. S.W. S. W galea Mton Ditto Ditto D.tto D.tto Hard gales Frcfh ga'e Moderate Strong gale D.tto Moderate D.tto Squally Strong gile Squally Model ate ■Squally Mo crate Ditto Squally Moderate Ligh. a.r-,. Moderate Ditto D.tto D.t.o Ditto i rt(L r.ile Ditto Squally Strong gde Flbk uakv, I7v l« Wild5, ScC. E. S. E. Eaft. Baft, N. E. Variable S. E. I . S. E. Eaft. Eaft. Variable D.tto Variable Ditto Fall. I Ditto Moderate Ditto Ditto Ditto D.tto Light brcez< Moderate Ditto Light airs Da r s, 'iOt.,1, 1 J2**i 3 153 Sui1' 2568 96 D24:+/:/^^D CHAPTER VIII. Great improvement of the country at Rofe Flill.—Vicifiitudc of the climate. Norfolk //land remarkably healthy.—A native runs away from the fettlement.—Frequent vijits from the natives.—Governor Phillip wounded by the natives with a fpear.—Natives again vifit the fettlement.—Entertain the governor, &c. with a dance.—Decorate them/elves for that purpofe. Method of dancing dejtribe d.—Mujic and fnging. A F T E R my arrival at Port Jackfon I went to Rofe Hill, where c H A P. great improvements were carrying on; a confiderable town was laid out, many good buildings were erected, and roads were cut, with about two hundred and thirteen acres of land cleared for corn, and eighty acres for buildings and gardens ; that is, the trees were cut down, but the roots remained in the ground, which would certainly lefien the quantity of cleared ground \ this ground being grubbed up and laid open, gave me an opportunity of examining what the foil confifled of, and although I do not pretend to any knowledge in farming, yet I thought it required no very great judgment to perceive and determine this favourite fpot (which, to do it juflice, is certainly better than any upon or near this harbour) to be a poor, fandy, fleril, foil; the furface is covered a few inches deep with a foil which feems to be produced from decayed vegetation, rotten leaves, burnt and withered grafs and under that is a mere bed of fand. Rofe Hill is certainly a pretty fituation, D d but viii. 1791, CHAP* but the country will require much manure, much dreflin£, and fjood viii. . l__y~~> farmers to manage it, before good crops can be expected from it; the liW< beft they have ever had, I have been informed, has amounted only to fix or feven to one, and this laft feafon has been little more than two to one, but that may in fome meafure be accounted for by there being a great fcarcity of rain. If it be the determination of government to perfevere in eftablifhing a fettlement in this country, upon an extenfive plan, the nation muft be contented to fubmit to a very heavy expence. It muft be flocked with cattle, were it only for the manure, for without manure this country is too poor ever to yield tolerable crops j, and if it fhould be refolved upon to ftock it with cattle, it will be found highly neceflary to employ a confiderable number of people in the care of them, to prevent their being frequently attacked by the natives, whom we know are frequently driven to very great diftrefs for food. The country about Rofe Hill, which I have formerly mentioned as requiring not much labour in clearing, from its. being covered only with-lofty, open woods, without any underwood, and which I then obferved ran to the weftward about twenty miles, has fince been travelled over by feveral gentlemen, who admit that that kind of country does extend near the diftance above-mentioned to the weftward, but in a north and fouth direction, it does not extend more than three or four miles, when you come again into barren, rocky land, wholly unfit for cultivation ; in fliort, as I have walked over a good deal of ground fince 1 have beea here, and have frequently travelled from Botany-Bay to Broken-Bay along the fea coaft, I can with much truth declare, that I have never met with a piece of ground any where fufficient for a fmall firm, (\ which- which has not been fo rocky as to be unfit for cultivation -, the beft of it appears to be a poor, miferable, fandy foil, and what muft fubject thofe who live on it to much inconvenience is, the very great fcarcity of water. Upon my arrival here from Norfolk Iiland, all the ftreams from which we were formerly fupplied, except a fmall drain at the head of Sydney-Cove, were entirely dried up, fo great had been the drought; a circumftance, which from the very intenfe heat of the fummer, I think it probable we {hall be very frequently fubject to. This frequent reduction of the ftreams of frefh water difpofes me to think, that they originate from fwamps and large collections of rain water, more than from fprings. When the fudden viciffitudes of heat and cold are confidered, we might be too apt to pronounce this country very unhealthy but near four years experience has convinced us that it is not the cafe: it is no uncommon thing at Rofe Hill, and frequently at Sydney, for the thermometer to be in the morning at 56° or 6o°; and by two hours, afternoon, at 100% fometimes 1120 j and after fun-fet, down to 60* again ; this is, with the thermometer expofed to the air, in a made, and not within the houfe. When I went laft to Rofe Hill, I left Sydney at five o'clock in the morning, and rowed up the harbour, a great coat was then comfortable 3 at noon I walked over the cleared ground, the thermometer was then more than 100". Norfolk Ifland is alfo fubject to fuch fudden changes, but is alfo remarkably healthy. I do not think I can give a ftronger proof of the fa-lubrity of the climate, than by obferving, that I never faw the confti-tutions cither of the human race or any other animal, more prolific in any part of the world j two children at a birth is no uncommon thing, and D d 2 elderly chap, elderly women, who have believed themfelves long pall the period 04 v^J^-il^ child-bearing, have repeatedly had as fine healthy ftrong children as 1791. ever were feen. And there has but one old woman, who was fickly before flic came to the country, and one infant, died of a natural dif-eafe on the iiland, fince it has been fettled. I have fome time ago mentioned the name of Ba-na-lang, a native man, who had been taken in the lower part of the harbour, with another of the name of Co-al-by, who foon after made his efcape. Ba-na^lang had been kept in his fhackle, and treated with fo much kindnefs, that it was now fuppofed he might be trufted with his liberty, without any fear of his leaving us; he was therefore, in the month of April, 1790, which was foon after we left Port Jackfon for Norfolk Iiland, fet at liberty, and did not appear at all difpofed to leave the governor's houfe* or abfent himfelf from his new acquired friends; this appearance of fitisfiction he feigned with fuccefs for feveral days, for no perfon feemed to fufpect him j he at laft, however, took French leave; having, after dark, one evening, ftripped himfelf of his very decent cloathing, left them behind, and walked off. Both he and Co-al-by were frequently feen by our flliing-boats, and were fo familiar as to converfe with the people, wdio often invited them to come up to Sydney (the name by which the fettlement is called) but this invitation they were not much difpofed to accept, until the governor in perfon fhould invite them, ami give them his promife that they fhould not be detained ; the governor did invite them, and promifed to give them many things, of which they were very much in want. It was fcarcely to be expected that thefe people, who had been deprived of their liberty in fo treacherous a manner, and had been fo long detained from their families and connections, fhould. have had confidence enough to truft their liberty again in our hands 1 however, however, as the governor and every other perfon in the fettlement had chap,. viii. ever been kind to them, they were inclined to depend on the governor's v.—v-^o promife, and did come to Sydney ; were kindly received, went from i79r* houfe to houfe, and law all their old acquaintances ; they received many little prefents, and returned to their friends when they thought proper. This confidential vifit from two men, who appeared to have fome in^ fluence among their countrymen, foon brought about a more general intercourfe, and the next vifit from thofe men brought the fame favour from their wives and families, whole example was followed by many others; fo that every gentleman's houfe was now become a refting or fleeping place for fome of them every night; whenever they were prefled for hunger, they had immediate rccourfe to our quarters, where they generally got their bellies filled. They were now become exceedingly fond of bread, which when we came here firft, they could not bear to put into their mouths j and if ever they did, it was .out of civility to thofe who offered it; but now the little children had all learnt the words, hungry, bread; and would, to fhew that they were hungry, draw in their belly, fo as to make it appear quite empty. Co-al-by's wife had a young female child in her arms, about three or four months old; this little creature had a. ligature round the little finger of the right hand, in order to feparate the two lower joints, which in the courfe of three weeks or a month it effected: I faw it juft as the finger was about dropping off, but as it hung by a bit of fkin, they begged Mr. White, the furgeon, to take it off, which he did, with a pair of fciilars, and which the child did not feem to feel. This taking oft the finger of the right hand appeared to be a miftake in the mother, who frequently pointed that it fhould have been the left hand. A fhoijt CHAP. A fliort time previous to this friendly and general vifiting from the VIII. _< natives, the governor, as I have already obferved, in order to difpofe *791. them the more to confide in us, went down the harbour himfelf, to fee and converfe with our old friends Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by, and to invite them to come to his houfe, where they fhould get whatever they might be in want of; and be permitted to return when they pleafed. The governor having received information that thefe two men with feveral other natives were in Collins's-Cove, went thither, accompanied by feveral other gentlemen, and they were all unarmed , this unfortunate want of neceflary caution had very near proved fatal to the governor; the particulars of this accident were related to me by an officer who was of the party, and were, as near as I can recollect, as follows : On Thurfday the 7th of September, the governor, with a few other gentlemen, went down to the look-out, in order to fix on a fpot for erecting a column, or pyramid, as a mark, by which Grangers might, at fea, the better know the harbour ; and were returning, when they were met by a boat which had been landing a party of gentlemen, who intended walking along the coaft to Broken-bay : by the cockfwain of this boat, the governor was informed, that Mr. White, who was one of the above party, had feen Co-al-by and Ba-na-lang, and had a long conversation with them ; that thefe men enquired for every body they knew, and particularly for the governor ; that they had fent his excellency a piece of whale, which had been thrown on fliore, and which they had been regaling themfelves upon; that Ba-na-lang would go up to Sydney, if the governor would come f ,r him. In confequence of this information, the governor returned to the look-out, and got together every thing that he could find, which he thought would be acceptable to his old friends : he alfo took with him four muhkets, and went immediately mediately to Collins's-Cove, where thofe people had been feen. In their chap. viii. way they examined the mufkets, and found that only two of the four would ftrike fire, and thefe they loaded : when they reached the place* 179.1* they obferved a number of the natives fitting round a fire which was near the place where the dead whale lay j the governor ftood up in the boat, and afked in their language where Ba-na-lang was; Ba-na-lang anfwered, I am here; the governor then faid, I am the governor your father ; (a name he warned the governor to be known by when he lived with him.) The governor, after defiring Captain Collins and Mr„ Waterhoufe to remain in the boat, and to have the mufkets ready, landed, and walked up the beach with his arms extended, to fhew that he was unarmed, and that they might not be alarmed: they did not teem inclined to meet him ; however he followed them into the wood*, and one of them frequently called out governor and father; in confe-quence* of this, and having fhook hands in a friendly manner, the governor returned to the boat, and defired one of the men to bring up-fome wine, beef, and bread, and a jacket or two, which had been brought on purpofe, and went back with thofe articles to them : on his holding up a bottle, one of them called out wine, and repeated feveral Englifh words; two of the natives came forward and received the things, and one drank a little wine; they had likewife received from* the governor a few knives. In a fliort time, the governor came to the boat again, and mentioned all that had happened j obferving at the fame time, that Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by were not among the number: he afked Captain Collins to walk up with him, and defired Mr. Waterhoufe to flay by the boat. When they went up, Mr. Waterhoufe frequently heard one of the natives call to Ba-na-lang, and informed him of what, obfervations he made upon thofe who remained in the boat, the people being employed in keeping her afloat, upon her oars. Shortly after, one CvniP' onc °^ t1llC mcn came down from tne governor, and informed Mr. - —*— -' Waterhoufe, that both Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by were there, and that ' the former had frequently afked for Mr. Waterhoufe, and the governor defired he would come up, which he did. On his arrival, he obferved a confiderable number of the natives on each fide, and eight or ten in front, all armed with their fpcars, except two, with whom the governor and Captain Collins were in conversion : Mr. Waterhoufe went up, but did not know Ba-na-lang, until he was pointed out to him j he then fhook hands with him and Co-al-by. Ba-na-lang had at this time two jackets on, which he had received from the governor and Captain Collins ; Co-al-by had alfo a jacket given him j after Ba-na-lang had been afked feveral quef-tions, he took Mr. Waterhoufe round the neck and kiffed him ; thefe queftions were relative to various circumflances which happened while he lived with the governor, all of which he feemed to recollect very well: Co-al-by fhook hands again with Mr. Waterhoufe, and begged him to put on the jacket which had been given, and which he held in his hand, not knowing how to put it on himfelf, which Mr. Waterhoufe did for him. Ba-na-lang, on the governor's firft meeting him, had a remarkable fine fpear, which the governor afked him for, but he either could not or would not underftand him, but laid it down on the ground : during all this time, there was the greateft appearance of harmony and friendfliip. However, the natives feemed doling round the party, which being obferved, the governor propofed going down to the boat, for they had by this time nearly formed a crefcent, and had the governor's party in the centre : there were now nineteen armed men near, and a confiderable number in the wood out of fight. The governor now told Ba-na-lang that he would return in two days, and bring him the cloaths he ufed to wear when in his houfe, and would alfo bring liim a couple of hatchets for himfelf and Co-al-by; with which pro-mi fe mife they feemed well pleafed, and often repeated that it might not be CHAP, forgot. Juft as the governor and his party were going, Ba-na-lang pointed out and named feveral of the natives who were ftrangers, one of whom the governor went up to and offered to fhake his hands, at which the man feemed much terrified, and immediately feized the fpear, which Ba-na-lang had laid on the ground, fixed it on the throwing-ftick, and difcharged it with aftonifhing violence : he with all his affociates made off with the utmoft precipitation. The fpear entered the governor's right moulder, juft above the collar-bone, and came out about three inches lower down, behind the fhoulder-blade. Mr. Waterhoufe, who was clofe by the governor at the time, fuppofed that it muft be mortal, for the fpear appeared to him to be much lower down than it really was, and fuppofed, from the number of armed men, that it would be im-pofiible for any of the party to efcape to the boat. He turned round immediately to return to the boat, as he perceived Captain Collins to go that way, calling to the boat's crew to bring up the mufkcts; the governor alfo attempted to run towards the boat, holding up the fpear with both hands, to keep it off the ground, but owing to its great length, the end frequently took the ground and ftopped him (it was about twelve feet long). Governor Phillip, in this fituation, defired Mr. Waterhoufe to endeavour, if poflible, to take the fpear out, which he immediately attempted, but obferving it to be barbed, and the barb quite through, he faw it would be impoflible to draw it out; he therefore endeavoured to break it, but could not: while he was making this attempt, another fpear was thrown out of the wood, and took off' the fkin between Mr. Waterhoufe's fore-finder and thumb, which alarmed him a good deal, and he thinks added power to his exertions, for the next attempt, he broke it off. By this time, the fpears flew pretty thick, one of which he obferved to fall at Captain Collins's feet, while " E e he he was calling to the boat's crew : the governor attempted to pull a piflol out of his pocket, but the fpears flew fo thick, that it was unfafe to flop: however he got it out and fired it, upon a fuppofition, that their knowing he had fome fire-arms would deter them from any further hoflility. The whole party got down to the boat without any further accident, and in two hours they arrived at the government-houfe, when the furgeons were fent for : Mr. Balmain, who was the firft that arrived, after examining the wound, made every body happy, by alluring them he did not apprehend any fatal confluences from it; he extracted the point of the fpear, and dreffed the wound, and in fix weeks the governor was perfectly recovered. Immediately on the arrival of the governor at Sydney, it was judged neceflary to fend an armed party of marines towards Broken-bay, to efcort the gentlemen who had walked that way back again; left the fame hoflile difpofition in the natives, fhould incline them to make an attack on them on their return. Before I left Port Jackfon, the natives were become very familiar and intimate with every perfon in the fettlement; many of them now took up their reft every night in fome of the gentlemen's houfes; their very unprovoked attack on the governor and his party being paffed over and almofl forgot. We have frequently obferved, fince this familiar inter-courfe took place, that they often had a dance amongfl themfelves at night, on the lower part of Sydney-cove, where a fmall houfe had been built by the governor's order, for their accommodation. It had been fignified to fome of the principal amongfl them, that we mould be glad to have an opportunity of feeing them dance, which they readily agreed to, and the following night was appointed, when the governor 8 and and a confiderable number attended; every one being provided with chap. viu. arms of fome kind : a caution which, notwith(landing friendly appear- i_ _^ 'w ances, was generally allowed to be neceflary; for experience had con- i79U vinced us that thefe people have a good deal of treachery in their difpo-iition. Preparatory to this exhibition, much attention was paid to the decorating themfelves; they were all Adams and Eves, without even a fig-leaf, but without their dignity. The young women were employed with all their art in painting the young men, who were chiefly ornamented with flreaks of white, done with pipe-clay, and in different forms, according to the tafle of the man himfelf, or to that of the lady who adorned him : no fop preparing for an aflembly was ever more defirous of making his perfon irrefiflibly beautiful. This paint, fo much in ufe among them, could not be applied without a little moiflure, and the lady, in drawing thofe marks on the face, which were fo eflential a part of.the decoration, i obferved frequently to fpit in the face of her friend, whom fhe was employed in adorning, in order to make the white clay mark the flronger. When they were all prepared, we walked down to the place appointed, after dark, for they prefer taking their amufement by fire-light; we found feveral fires lighted, and a confiderable number of people affembled. We walked round to fee that there were no armed lurkers among the bufhes. The dancers being ready, we were placed in a femicircle, by Ba-na-lang, and Co-al-by, who feemed to have the chief authority and direction. The dance was begun by a few young boys, and was encreafed by men and women, chiefly by the former, until their number amounted from twenty to twenty-fix. Their dance was truly wild and favage, yet, in many parts, there appeared order and regularity : one man would frequently fingle himfelf out from the dance, and running round the whole E e 2 of chap, of the performers, (mg out in a loud voice, ufirnr fome exprelTion'S in Vlli. 1 r . . ,. .-v--/ one particular tone of voice which we could not underftand : he would 179i- then join the dance, in which it was obferved that crrt;.in parties alternately led forward to the front, and there exhibited with their utmoft (kill and agility, all the various motions which, with them, feemed to conflitute the principal beauties of dancing : one of the moft ftrlking was, that of placing their feet very wide apart, and by an extraordinary exertion of the mufcles of the thighs and legs, moving the knees in a trembling and very furprizing manner, fuch as none of us could imitate ; which feemed to fliew that it required much practice to arrive at any degree of perfection in this fingular motion. There appeared a good deal of variety in their different dances ; in one of which they paired themfelves, and frequently danced back to back ; they then changed fuddenly and faced each other: fometimes all the performers? fat down on the ground with their feet under them, and at a particular word, or order, they all raifed themfelves up : this motion they performed without any afliftance from the hands; now they ran back in direct rows, then advanced in the fame order; again they would form a-circle, with fome diftinguifhed perfon in the center, and fometimes the whole of the performers would appear with a green bough in their hands, which they held up in a confpicuous manner. In all the different figures which they performed, I obferved that they generally finifhed by certain numbers of their principal dancers advancing to the front,, and going through that favourite part of the dance, the quivering motion of the knees; whenever this was done, the whole company faced to the front and went through the fame motions j but it was noticed that fome were more frequently in the front than others, and thofe, I concluded, wrere fuch as had great confidence in their own fkill in the execution of this very difficult part of the performance, and no doubt were were vain enough to outfliinc in their ability the red: of the company, chap. VlU. On the whole, this exhibition was well worth feeingj and tins was the v~l_ firft opportunity that had offered for us to fee any thing of the kind, 179L. fince we had been in the country. Their mufic confifted of two fticks of very hard wood, one of which the mufician held upon his brcaft, in the manner of a violin, and ftiuck it with the other, in good and regular time ; the performer, who was a ftout ftrong voiced man, fung the whole time, and frequently applied thofe graces in mufic, the piano and forte ; he was aflifted by feveral young boys and girls, who fat at his feet, and by their manner of crofting the thighs, made a hollow between them and their belly, upon which they beat time with the flat of their hand, fo as to make a kind of found which will be better under ftood from the manner of its being produced,,than from any verbal defcription : thefe children alio fung with the chief mufical performer, who ftood-up the whole time, and feemed to me to have the moft laborious part of the performance. They very frequently, at the conclufion of the dance, would apply to us for our opinions, or rather for marks of our-approbation of their performance , which we never failed to give by often repeating the word boojeryy which fignifies good ; or boojery carib— beric, a good dance. Thefe figns of pleafure in us feemed to give them great fatisfaclion, and generally produced more than ordinary exertions from the whole company of performers in the next dance* 1 G II A P T E & CHAPTER IX. Captain Hunter leaves Port Jack/on in the Waalfamheyd tranfport.—In danger amongft fome iflands.—IJle of Pines defcribed.—Stewart's iflands difcovered.—Fall in with Bradley s Jhoals.—Difcover a clufler of iflands. —Name them Lord Howe's Groupe.—The natives defcribed.—Attempt to find anchorage on the coaft of New-Britain.—Are difappointed.— Anchor at the Duke of Tork's ifland.—Attempt to procure water.—Are attacked by the natives.—A few fhots fred.—The natives difperfed.—A reconciliation effected.—Natives defcribed.—Weapons.—Ornaments, &c. —Produce and foil.—Leave the Duke of Tork's ifland.—Natives from the Admiralty iflands vifit the fliip.—Their canoes defcribed.—Phillip's iflands difcovered.—Anchor at Hummock ifland.—Refrejhments procured. —Vifited by the Raja.—A quarrel enfues.—Several of the natives killed. —Articles of barter in requefl.—Canoes defcribed.—Leave Hummock ifland.—Anchor at Batavia.—Tables of latitude and longitude, &c, chap. /"^\N the 27th of March, 1791, every thing being embarked, we left \^~^f—j Sydney-cove, in the Waakfamheyd tranfport, and failed down the 1791. harbour; when we were accompanied by the governor, and molt of the March 27. . civil and military officers in the lettlement. When we palled the lower point of the Cove, all the marines and the New South Wales corps, who were ofTduty, came down and cheered our people, by way of taking leave, and wifhing us a good paifage : never, upon any fervice, did there a better, ' BATAVIA. 2I a better, or a more friendly, underftanding fubfift between different chap. IX corps, than had ever been the cafe between the feamen and foldiers l *yl— employed upon this. When we came near the lower part of the harbour, 1791. our friends took leave, and foon after the wind fetting in from the fea, we were obliged to anchor until the next morning, when a land wind carried us clear out. The mafter of the fhip had orders from Governor Phillip to call at Norfolk Ifland, in order to take on board the difpatches of Lieutenant-Governor Rofs; but this order was meant only in cafe it could be done without any material lofs of time. We were in all, on board that little veiTel, one hundred and twenty-three fouls, victualled for fixteen weeks. We had a very long voyage before us. It was my wifh, if poffible, to avoid touching at Batavia, in order to prevent ficknefs among our people, in the very crouded ftate they were in, which, at the feafon we fhould probably be there, was much to be dreaded. I had expreffed a defire to pafs through amongfl the Molucca Iflands, and endeavour to call at Timor, for the purpofe of watering, and getting fuch other articles as could be had there, as by the time we could arrive among thofe iflands, the eafterly wind would be fet in ftrong , and from thence, to have proceeded as far as I could with the provifions I had, either to the Mauritius, or the Cape of Good Hope: we therefore could not afford to lofe much time in an attempt to call at Norfolk Ifland ; three weeks, however, we perfevered in endeavouring to reach it, and had arrived within twenty-five leagues of it, when the wind fet in ftrong from the eaftward. I now called the officers and the mafter of the fhip together, to coniider of our fituation, with refpect to water and provifions. We had been fitted out in a very hafty and carelefs manner, with water-calks built from old worm-eaten ftaves, which had been laying expofed to the fun for more than a year; fo that by the time wc had arrived within the above diftance of the ifland, we had chat, had loft'by leakage full three weeks water, and had every reafon to fear ix. J ■IV—.--' the lofs of much more from the fame caufe : it was not therefore time, '79r« xvitli a heavy failing veifel, to attempt beating to windward, in order to .reach a place, which we knew we could not gain without a change of wind ; and the very great difficulty and uncertainty of getting a fupply of water there, determined every one's opinion in fiivour of bearing away to the northward : much time had already been loft in making the attempt, we therefore fteered to the northward, intending to pafs between the New Hebrides and Nova Caledonia; but in this intention we Vvpvil23. were difivppointed. Upon making the Ifle of Pines, (on the 23d of April,) which lies off the fouth end of New Caledonia, (the ifland bore when wc made it north,) the wind blew fo ftrong from the northward of eaft, that we could not weather and pail to the eaftward of it." We had not Cook's Second Voyage on board, fo that we had no account • of this land, and as I had always underftood that the Ifle of Pines was a fmall inconsiderable fpot, with many tall pine-trees upon it, v^c all concluded, that, what afterwards proved really the ifland was the land which Captain Cook had called the Prince of Wales's Foreland, and is the fouth-weft part of New Caledonia. We had moreover farther reafon to believe this to be the cafe, from the circumftance, that from this land to the fouth-eaft there lay a low iiland on which grew high pine-trees ; from which circumftance, we confidcred it to be the Ifle of Pines ; and being unable, as I have already obferved, to weather it, we bore away, intending to run along the weflern coaft of New Caledonia : this miilake had nearly proved of fatal confequences to us, for after we had coafte.d along for a few leagues, and had been employed in taking angles for afcertaining the fliapc of the coaft, as we failed along it, land was difcovered a-hcad; upon which the courfe was altered: foon afterwards, .more land was feen ftill a-head, and as we hauled up to avoid it, more m land, . land and broken keys or low iflands were difcovered a-hcad, and as far to windward as the eye could reach ; we confequently hauled our wind, and ftood towards it, in order to difcover our fituation with more certainty : we foon found that we had failed into a very deep bay, formed between the Ifle of Pines to the eaftward, and a moft dangerous reef on the weft, which extended from the high land or fouth-weft point of New Caledonia, not lefs than ten or eleven leagues, and was nearly that diftance in a fouth-weft direction from the high part of the Ifle of Pines : in this fituation there was no alternative; for we muft either beat to windward to go round the reef, find a channel through it, or go on fliore: the firft, therefore, we determined to attempt, fo we made all the fail the fhip could bear, and ftood towards the reef, and it being . then evening we wifhed to afcertain our exact fituation before dark.-We found the reef compofed of a number of low iflands or keys, and many rocks above the wafer, and of confiderable breadth; in fliort, there was not the fmalleft hope of palling through it, the fea broke very high on every part of it, which we could reach with the eye from the niaft-head. As foon as it was dark, and we thought ourfelves near enough to it, we tacked, and kept every perfon upon deck during the nieht. We had, during the time we were running to leeward and making obfervations on the coaft, paffed by a number of low iflands, covered with trees or fhrubs, and had obferved they were all furrounded with a reef, which the fea broke upon, and among thefe little illands , were many reefs, which appeared only by the breaking of the fea : we were then thoroughly fenfible of our miftake* and that the land which we had taken from its extent to be a part of New Caledonia, was the Ifle of Pines ; and that the height which we had fleered down for, and thought to be^a part of the coaft which Captain Cook had not feen, was jwhat he called the Prince of Wales's Foreland, and wTa« the fartheft land F f hi chap, he had Teen to the weftward. We kept working to windward all night, IX. ■ - • " <—•--' between that extenfive reef to the weftward, and thofe fmall keys and 'W' reefs which lay between us and the land, and of which I have fince obferved, Captain Cook, in his fketch, takes no notice ; the outer reef he marks, but leaves a large open fpace between it and the land, which defcribes the reef to be a round duller of rocks above and under water; he probably had not an opportunity of obferving this dangerous place fo near to the land as we had : there maybe a channel to the leeward between the inner end-'of this reef and the fliore, but it had very little the appearance of it j as we faw many low fhrubby iflands between us and the fhore, to which they were probably connected by a reef under water, which, at the diftance we were from it, could not be afcertained. At aFril 24. day-light in the morning of the 24th, we obferved with no fmall degree of pleafure, that we had gained ground to windward; but this wTe knew was not owing to any weathcrly qualities in the fhip, but to the wind having varied feveral points during the night, and of which we had availed ourfelves : by noon we were fo far to windward-as to perceive the utmoft extent of the reef to the fouthward under our lee, and We had a profpect of weathering if; wc, of courfe, carried a prefs of fail, and did weather it about two or three miles: when a-breaft of it, the higheft part of the Ifle of Pines was juft to be feen above the horizon, which was very clear, and it bore by compafs north-eaft by north, diftant ten or eleven leagues ; having paffed without the reef, at neon we obferved our latitude to be 23' j' fouth, fo that the fouth extremity of this dangerous reef lies in latitude 23 00' fouth nearly: as foon as we were fairly clear of this fituation, we bore away to the weftward. The Ifle of Pines, fo far from being an inconf derable foot, as I had believed, is not lefs than 14 or 15 miles over in a fouth-eaft and north-weft low land had many tall pine-trees upon it; thefe trees, in length, *w» feemed exceedingly to furpafs thofe of Norfolk Iiland, but their branches did not appear to extend fo far from the body of the tree. We continued to fleer to the north-wellward without feeing any thing, and when we had reached the latitude of 190 oo' fouth, which is fuppofed to be as far to the northward as any part of New Caledonia extends, we hauled to the north-eaft, fo as to pafs between Queen Charlotte's Iflands and that large track of land which had been feen by Monfieurs Bougainville and Surville formerly, and lately by Lieutenant Shortland, in the Alexander Tranfport, and more recently ftill by Lieutenant Ball, in his Majefty's armed tender Supply. The part feen by Lieutenant Ball is, I believe, more to the fouthward, than that feen by the French, and is no doubt the fame as that feen by Lieutenant Shortland ; but the one failed along the eaft, the other along the weft fide of it. It is highly probable that there is a continuation of the fame track, and it is farther probable, by the breaks which have been obferved in it, that it is a chain of iflands extending in a fouth-eaft and ,north-weft direction, and very nearly connected with the coaft of New Guinea. On the 5th of May we were near as far to the northward as Mar y, the fouthermoft part of this land, but did not fee it, being by our longitude in 163" -33' eaft, which is more than a degree to the eaftward of the fouth part feen by the Supply; the weather was now dark and gloomy, with heavy rain at times, and light, variable winds. Queen Charlotte's Iflands certainly lie farther to the eaftward than has generally been fuppofed, otherwife we muft have made them, for we croffed their latitude in 1630 30' eaft longitude, which is nearly what the weft end of F f 2 Egmont £23 A VOYAG E T O CHAP. Egmont Iiland is laid to lie in. On the 3th of May we had a number i--^—» of very good obfervations of the fun and moon's diftance, by which our '79r- longitude was at noon 163° 32' eaft, and the latitude at the fame time Mav 8. T 10th. 9" 33' fouth. On the 10th, in the morning, we faw land bearing weft-north-weft, diftant about feven leagues; wc bore down to make it plain, and it proved to be a clufter of fmall iflands, five in number; they were well covered with trees, amongft which we thought we obferved the cocoa-nut. Thefe iflands, when we firft difcovered them, appeared as only one, which induced me to think it might be Carteret's Ifland ; and had it not been that by going nearer we difcovered that there were five of them, and that they did not at all anfwer the de-fcription of that given by Captain Carteret, I fhould have concluded that it was fo, although the longitude of his ifland muft have been very erroneous, had it been the cafe. Their latitude is 8" 26' fouth, which is nearly the latitude of Carteret's; and their longitude, deduced from the preceding day's obfervations, is 1630 18' eaft. We fteered from them directly to the northward, in order to fee if we could difcover Gower's Ifland, which Captain Carteret fays lies about ten or eleven leagues to the northward of Carteret's; but as we faw nothing, I concluded they had never been feen before; I therefore called them■■ Stewart's Iflands, as a mark of my refpect for the honourable Keith. Stewart. The two largeft of the iflands juft mentioned I judged to be about* three miles in length; whether they were inhabited or not we could not difcover : we palled to windward of them, and not being fituated conveniently for making difcoveries, or exploring unknown lands, we made the beft of our way to the northward : juft after we left thefe iflands, we puffed through a very ftrong rip] ing of a tide or current, and faw the £ A T A V I A. 22i the trunks of feveral large trees in the water. On the I2th, at nine chap. ix. o'clock in the morning, the man at the maft-head difcovered breakers <-,— on the (larboard bow, and not more than fix miles dillant j foon after, j%3^ breakers were feen on the (larboard quarter, and on the beam, extending in the direction of eaft-fouth-eaft and weft-north-weft five leagues diftant: at eleven, breakers were feen on the larboard beam, in different patches about two miles long, and lying parallel to thofe on the ftar-board fide ; on this we brought to, and founded with i 30 fathoms of line, but had no ground. This had the appealance of a dangerous clufter of (hoals, for being fituatcd in a climate where it feldom blows fo ftrong as to raife a large fea, a fhip might in the night, without a very good look-out, be in very great danger before they could be perceived : they appeared to be find flioals, and very little below the furface : the paffage we failed through is in latitude 6° 52' fouth, and longitude 1610 06' eaft: thefe patches fhould not be crofted in the night : -I called them Bradley's Shoals. The variation was here 8° 01' eaft. On the 14th, at day-light in the morning, we faw land, and at fun- 14th, rife we obferved th is land to be a number of iflands; fome were of confiderable extent, and many of a fmaller fize. Thirty-two were diftinclly counted from the maft-head, bearing from north-weft half north to north-eaft half eaft ; many of them were confiderably diftant, fo far as to make it probable that we did not fee the whole of this extenfive groupc. At ten o'clock we perceived fix or feven canoes coming ofF, with large triangular fails j a little after noon, one of them, with nine men in it, came up with us, although we did not fhorten fail: we couid not perfuadc them to come along-fide, or touch the fhip, but we threw a few beads and nails, and other trifles, into their boat, with which they appeared much pleafed ; ar.d in return, they threw fome pieces of 7 cocoa- chap, cocoa-nut on board; at one o'clock a frefh breeze fprung up, and they IX. "-L—<—left us, The men in this boat were a flout, clean, well made people, , 1791. 1 of a dark copper colour-; their hair was tied in a knot on the back of their head, and they feemed to have fome method of taking off their Carteret's harbours, before we could get as much wind as would com- 1791. mand the {hip; for fhe was as dull and heavy failing a veflel as I ever was embarked in, and in my opinion was wholly unfit for the fervice fhe was now employed in. When any other veflel would be going three knots with a light wind, we could fcarcely give her fteerage-way. In the evening, finding, as I apprehended, the fhip fetting faft to the weftward, we hauled up to the eaftward, in order to keep as near the Cape as poflible, until day-light. That night alfo we had little wind, and that was variable ; we kept her head as much as poflible to the eaftward, and at eight in the morning the Cape bore north i6Q oo' eaft, diftant eleven or twelve miles; which was much farther off than I wifhed; at the fame time, a projecting point on the coaft of New-Britain bore weft north-weft : we were becalmed moft of this day, and were ftill fetting to the weftward. In the afternoon of the 22d, a very May tz. light breeze fprung up from the eaftward, with which we endeavoured to get within Wallis's ifland ; we founded frequently, but had no ground with 130 fathoms of line: this fituation was truly diftrefling, for although we had every thing fet, we could not force the fhip more than a knot and a half through the water, and had the mortification to fee that we were driving to the weftward: about two o'clock the breeze frefhencd up a little, and although wc were within three miles of anchorage in Gower's harbour, we fiw plainly we could not fetch it; however I had hope, as Carteret's harbour is laid down in the chart four leagues to leeward of it, that we might with eafe get in there; we had a boat in fliore at this time founding, and it was the general opinion, that unlefs we bore away foon, we fhould not run the diftance before dark, we therefore made the fignal for the boat, and bore away. G e The chap. The northermoft point in fight from the fhip was, according to the i. -v- u fketch made in the Swallow, Point Carteret, we confidered the north -1791. weft, entrance as near to that point, but intended of courfe to avail ourfelves of being to windward to go in at the fouthermoft paffage. The diftance, as I have already mentioned, being marked four leagues from Wallis's Ifland to Carteret harbour, unfortunately deceived us \ and Cocoa-nut ifland being low, when compared with the high land under which it lies, appeared like a low point projecting from it: we were paft the fouth entrance of this harbour, before we thought ourfelves within fix miles of it, and had now a ftrong fouth-eaft wind, which two hours fooner, would have enabled us to have got into Englifh Cove, in Gower harbour : the diftance from harbour to harbour did not appear to me to be more than two leagues, if fo much. It was our misfortune, that the diftances marked in the fketch juft mentioned, did not agree with our judgment of them ; and there is another error which I muft take the liberty to correct, and which alfo tended to deceive us; Point Carteret, in the Swallow's fketch, is the extremity of the land weftward, which can be feen from a fhip off Gower harbour, and the land from that point inclines immediately to the northward; but there is a point which lies north-weft from Point Carteret, not lefs than four miles, and from that point the land trends to the northward : this point comes fuddenly down from very high land to a round bluff point, which is fteep to, and Point Carteret is low and woody. We difcovered our miftake when it was too late to recover it in fuch a veflel. We ran along the fliore clofe in, and endeavoured to find anchorage; we had alfo a boat a-head for the fame purpofe, but although we went fometimes within a cable's length of the fhore, we could not find bottom^ Our fituation now became ferious, for our water was become fhort, and o we we had yet a long voyage before us ; it was now abfolutely neceffary to chap, look for fome fupply of that article, and as we were only victualled for *—^—• fixteen weeks when we left Port Jackfon, and had already been eight at 1791. fea, we could not on that account lofc much time, left we mould meet with calms as we came near the Line. Full allowance of water, in fo fultry a climate, and fo crowded a fhip, was a matter which I was exceedingly anxious about, for without a fufficiency of that article, fick-nefs amongft the people was much to be dreaded. Before we went any farther to the northward, I was determined to try the coaft of New-Britain ; we therefore ftood over for that land, intending, if poftible, to find an anchoring place. On the morning of the 22d, we came May zu within three or four leagues of the fliore; it then fell calm, and the boat was fent in fliore with Mr. Keltie, the mafter of the Sirius, who had directions to make a certain fignal if he found anchorage : in the afternoon, a light breeze fprung up, which enabled us to ftand in and meet the boat. Mr. Keltie reported, that the part of the coaft which he had been in with, was ftreight, and had no appearance of any fort of bay, or the fmalleft probability of anchorage ; that he had frequently tried to get bottom within three cables length of the fliore, but without fuccefs. On this coaft we found a regular tide, its general direction was fouth-eaft and north-weft. The hills mentioned by Captain Carteret, on the coaft of New-Britain, by the name of the Mother and Daughters, are very remarkable , a little way within the fouth-caftcrmoft Daughter, there is a fmall flat-top'd hill, or volcano, which all the time we were within fight of it, emitted vaft columns of black fmoke. On this coaft there appeared many extenfive fpots of cleared, and apparently cultivated land. The next ftep that was to be purfued, was to examine the Duke of York's Iiland, and on the night of the 22d, we ran off the eaft point of it, with a light air from the weftward, and brought to till day-light; Q g 2 having chap, having been near enough to the fouth-eaft part of the iiland the whole ix. . i—of the preceding day, to difcover that there was little profpecl: of an- 1791* chorage on that fide. In the night wc heard breakers at no great diftance from us ; this wc found at day-light was a fpit, which runs a fmall May 23. diftance off the eaft point of the iiland. On the 23d in the morning, wc had very little wind, and the boat was fent in fhore to found; the fhip was at this time about a mile and a half off. Many canoes came off, with every appearance of friendly difpolition ; we gave them a few trifles, and they feemed to infift on making a return for every thing they received; cocoa-nuts, yams, and bananas, were held out on the point of a long fpear, or pole, for they feemed afraid to touch the fhip; the boat which was founding endeavoured to make them underftand that we wanted water, and fhewed a fmall keg, intimating by figns that they wanted it filled; the people in one of the canoes went to the boat, received the keg, went immediately on fhore, filled it, and brought it back to the boat: the officer then gave them another fmall keg, which he meant as a prefent, but it was immediately fent on fliore by another canoe: in the mean time a breeze fprung up, the boat fteered along fhore and the fhip followed: the people who had taken the laft keg, after having filled it, followed our boat with the utmoft fpeed, came up with her and delivered it; this I thought a ftriking proof of the honefty of thefe people, and it will particularly appear fo, when it is confidered, that the keg was hooped with iron. As we ran round the weftern fide of the ifland, we obferved a fmall bay or cove, into which the boat went, followed by many canoes, and an immenfe multitude of people on the fhore. We fhortened fail to give the boat time to examine it; fhe very foon returned, and Mr. Keltie informed us that there was anchorage in the bay; we immediately made fail fail into it, and at noon of the 2?d, anchored in twenty-one fathoms chap. ix. foft ground, with fome loofc patches of coral; here we were within a <—v—. cable and a half of the beach. In the afternoon, we fent the boats 179'-armed to look for freih water; a vaft multitude of the natives were by this time affembled on the fliore, and the bay was filled with canoes; in confequence of which we got the fhip's guns loaded and ready; (fhe mounted fix three-pounders) but although they were exceedingly clamorous, they were ftill apparently well difpofed; they fhewed the officer in the boat how to find water by digging holes in the fandy beach, in the manner frequently practifed in the Weft-Indies; we followed their advice, and funk a calk in the fand; the water flowed into it, but was too much mixed with the fea water to be ufed. Some of the natives, however, afterwards pointed out another place, from which the frefh water iffned in a confiderable ftream, out of chafms in the rocky face of a high bank : this difcovery fet our people upon farther fearches, and they found feveral fuch difcharges from the fide of the bank, enough to anfwer our purpofe, if the natives remained quiet and friendly. This bufinefs I was particularly defirous we might be able to effect withouL being under the necefTtty of convincing them of our fuperiority in arms. The firft day was fpent in endeavouring to fhew them, that we were defirous of a friendly intcrcourfe with them, and that we wanted nothing but water, which they could well fpare: however, on difcovering that water was to be had, we were of courfe determined to have as much as might be neceffary for our purpofe, and by fuch means-as might be found neceffary and effectual. This firft night there was a. very ftncu look-out kept, as well by the natives as by us-; they had a regular watch-word, which they fung out in a very pleafing and mufical manner, chap, manner, and it was anfwered by thofe on the next poll;, and fo all IX. round the fkirt of the wood. The next morning we loaded one boat 1791. with empty cafks, and had the other armed, to lie off the fliore and cover the people employed filling water; the fhip's guns were loaded with round and grape fliot, and were within lefs than two cables length of the watering-place ; twelve men, with fmall arms, attended on fliore with the waterers. The watering bufinefs was now begun, and might have fatisfied the natives what our bufinefs was there ; however, their numbers increafed to fuch a degree, all armed, and they were fo very troublefome, that very little work could be done in the watering. An old man, who was powdered all over with a white powder, and who feemed to poffeffi great authority and influence amongft his countrymen, difpofed them to be more and more troublefome ; prefents were offered him, but he rejected every thing with a very furly and determined air; in fhort, he feemed refolved that we fhould not fill water, or remain upon their territory ; he carried every appearance of an intention to dif-pute the point by force ; every means were ufed to, pleafe this old fellow, but without effect; at laft fome flones were thrown from a fling, but this was not done until the principal part] of the natives had retired to fome diftance from the place where our people were employed; the men who were armed for the protection of the waterers, ftood the whole time with their arms ready to fire at a moment's notice, and the natives, ignorant of what the mufquets were, had certainly taken them for clubs. Some of the flones, which they threw, came with the force of a fliot from a gun among the failors. The confequence of this unmerited attack was, that the officer was obliged to fire, the covering boat fired, and a few fliot were fired from the fhip : at this time, there were thirty or forty canoes about the fhip, full of people; their terror and confternation at the noife, and probably the effect of the guns, was fuch, fuch* that many leaped from their boats overboard, and fwam under water as far as they were able; fuch guns as were fired from the fide on which the canoes were, were pointed well over them, being more intended to intimidate than deftroy. This firing occafioned a general dif-perfion of the natives, and the filling of water was carried on with eafe and expedition; we received on board that afternoon about feven tons-The next morning, before the boats went on fliore, we fired a few grape fhot into the woods, and the boats landed without feeing any of the natives; at the fame time we warped the fhip within a cable's length of the watering-place, and fecured her head and item for covering the party on fliore; the covering boat was directed to fire whenever any of the natives were feen in the woods over the watering party, which, in the courfe of the day, they had frequent occafion to do ; many canoes came into the bay this day, but kept at an awful diflance, holding up green boughs as a fignal of peace and amity; to fome we made figns to go away; to others, who ventured a little nearer, we fliewed figns of friendfliip, and made them perfectly underftand, that our firing was occafioned by their flinging of ftones among our people, who were watering : after thefe hoftilities, our watering went on without the fmalleft interruption, except that the covering boat had occafion fometimes to fire a few mufquets into the woods over the watering place. In four days we compleated our water, and on the laft evening, as the failors were coming from the fhore, a number of the natives from the woods right above the watering place, came down to the beach with green boughs in their hands, bringing with them cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, &c. accompanied by a fong of friendfliip : they feemed earneftly to wifh for a reconciliation, and took every means in their power to teftify their concern for what had happened; a boat was fent on fhore to meet them, with a green branch in the bow, and the boat's crew were defired to fpread fpread open their arms when they came near the breach, to (hew they were well difpofed to peace. When the boat landed, the natives retired back a little, but not out of fight; having piled up upon the beach their peace-offering, which confided of yams, cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, fugar-cane, and fome other articles : on the top of this pile was laid a fmall living male and female dog, with their mouths and feet tied: (they appeared to be of the fmall terrier kind) in the middle of the heap was duck in the fand, a young tree of the palm kind, upon a branch of which were hung a number of braded lines, like what is called by feamen, Jermit, and much of the fime colour, being made of the bark of a particular tree : what this could mean we were wholly at a lofs to comprehend, unlefs, as the head of this young tree was defign-edly bent down by the lines above-mentioned, it was meant as a token of fubmiffion , be that as it might, they received the boat's crew, Sec. with every demonstration of a true concern for what had happened ; and I fear and believe they had much caufe to be forty, for I think fome mult have loft their lives by the grape fliot from the fliip. It is much to be regretted, that after having feen us employed in getting what we wanted, in doing which every perfon was completely employed, and not the molt diftant appearance of infult, or any fort of provocation had been offered them, they could not have deiifted from hoftility until fome kind of offence had been offered, a circumftance which, during the whole time, was moft particularly guarded againft in thofe employed on fhore : but from an ignorance of the effect of our arms, and from their very fuperior numbers, they were inclined to be infolent and troublefome ; our failors on fliore were fo very few, when compared with 'heir numbers, that it became abfolutely neceflary to refent the 6rft unprovoked offence which they gave, and thereby to convince them, before it might be too late, that although their numbers far exceeded 52 ^^82338676817^37301037^776^47587 reeded ours, their real force was very inferior. After peace had been chap. re-eftabliflied on fliore, the conk fhell was founded, which is the fignal 1-(--; whereby they affcmble confiderable numbers; and in a very fliort time, 1791. they appeared coming from all parts of the wood round the bay, and were met by thofe who had been the means of bringing about a reconciliation, with a fong of friendfliip, in which the whole joined, and which was really harmonious and very pleating: the canoes crowded the bay from different parts of the ifland, and were as familiar as ever, except that they would not now venture on board, which many had done before this quarrel : every boat brought a green bough, that was con-fpicuoufly held up; they alfo brought many things to barter, and were pleafed with fuch trifles as we had to give them in return. They are, I believe, the only people in thofe feas, who do not fet a value upon iron work, in preference to any other thing; beads or looking-glafles they were not much pleafed with, but rags of white linen, ftrips of fcarlet cloth, or any thing of gay colours, they were very anxious to have: nails they would not accept at all. The natives of the Duke of York's Iiland are a flout, robufl:, well made people, of a light copper colour; I faw none who could be called black j they go entirely naked ; the hair is woolly, but it is fo managed by fome fort of greafe or ointment, and a white or red powder with which they drefs it, that it hangs on fome like fo many candle wicks, or rather like the thrums of a new mop reverfed, or turned upfide down; they are generally as fully powdered as a beau drefled for an affembly ; fome have their hair of a yellow, fun burnt colour, others quite red, as if powdered wholly with the true marechall; none are feen with the hair of its natural colour. This yellow or red appearance, I believe, may be occafioned by this univerfal method of powder- H h ing, ing, for the powder feems to be made from burnt fhells, or coral, and is really a kind of lime; they generally carry a fmall goard or box filled with it about them, and when they arc hoftilely difpofed, they frequently take a quantity of this powder into the hollow of the hand, from which, with a ftrong bhil from the mouth, they blew it before them ; and at a fmall diftance it has exactly the appearance of firing gunpowder, and no doubt is meant as a token of defiance. This practice' is certainly ufed by the people of New Guinea, for Captain Cook takes notice of it when his boat landed on that coaft near Cape Walfh, and fays, that he fuppofes thofe people have fome method of producing fire in that fudden manner. He alfo obfrrves, that they had a bamboo or hollow cane from which fire and fmoke was obferved to ifitie ; but I am difpofed to think, that the conjecture of having feen fire could only have been occafioned by the appearance of fmoke, which we naturally fuppofe to have proceeded from fire, for it is probable that fire and fmoke being projected fuddenly from any confined engine, would occafion fome degree of cxplofion, although it is alfo probable that the gentlemen in the Endeavour's boat might not have been near enough to have heard it: however, after all, there is much reafon to believe, that what Captain Cook fiw upon tShat coaft was the very practice ufed here, where we faw it in a much nearer interview, as fome of our people had it blown in their eyes. Their chief, upon hoftile occafions, powdered his body all over, fo that it was no dirltcult matter to difcover him ; they alfo upon fuch occafions painted their faces red ; fome had marks upon their arms and fhoulders, occafioned by fcarifying thofe parts in long ftripes, and letting the fore rife above the furface of the fkin ; they frequently wore a bone or reed thrnft through the feptum of the nolo, and, like the natives of Lord Howe's Groupe, had alfo holes cut through the wings of the nofe, into which were fixed fliort pkces of £ hollow hollow reed, as ladies wear wires to keep the ears open when newly chap. xx. bored ; into thefe hollows or rings they occafionally fluck long pieces of ^—,—u reed, which are no doubt confidered by them as ornamental. The men >79"» in general were well looking people, but fuch of their women as I faw were very ordinary. The weapons ufed by the people of this ifland were lances of different kinds, fome were made of a kind of ebony, or hard wood, about ten feet long, frequently ornamented with feathers of different colours at the upper end; others were made of bamboo, pointed with hard wood; the lance is thrown by hand, but they had not the ufe of the throwing flick, like the natives of New South Wales: they alfo, in their quarrels, ufed the fling for throwing flones, which appears to be made of fome tough dried leaf, feveral times doubled; the firings were manufactured from fome foft, filky, and fibrous plant; they throw a round hard pebble, of which they generally carried a fmall nett full about them; the flones were about the fize of a fmall fowl's egg, and flew with much force, and great exactnefs from the fling : they had alfo a long unhandy kind of club. They ufed, in fifhing, a fifliing fpear, fmall feinc netts, and hooks and lines ; their hooks were of tortoife-fhell, from which circumftance there can be no doubt but they have either turtle in their neighbourhood, or the tortoife upon the ifland. They had a kind of mufical inflrumcnt, with which they fometimes, in their canoes alongfide, endeavoured to amufe us; it was compofed of a number of hollow reeds of different lengths, fattened together, but they did not feem to be very expert in proportioning their lengths, or tuning them to harmony : found, not concord, feemed to be all they expected from it j they blew into the mouth of the different reeds by drawing the inflrumcnt acrofs their lips, and in that manner they produced founds : their vocal mufic was far more harmonious, although there was not much variety in it. Thofe who were confidered H ii 2 a* as people of diftin&ion were always to be found in a better fort of boat than common j and I obferved, that when any canoe came near the fhip with people of diftinction on board, the higher ranks were always to be known by a man fitting in the middle of the boat, who held a wooden inftrument in his hand, refembling in fhape a common paddle, but handfomely carved and painted, with its handle finifhed fomething like the hilt of a fword. When thofe people were difpofed to be kind and friendly, they frequently fung out in one particular tone, in which, if there were five hundred together, the niceft ear could not difcover one to differ in the tone or particular note ; and immediately after they all mimicked the barking of a dog: this was meant by them as a certain proof of their friendly difpofition. Before we had caufe to quarrel with them many came on board and were fhaved, an operation with which they were much pleafed. This ifland, by its appearance from the fea, I judged to be about ten miles long, in a fouth-fouth-weft and north-north-eaft direction; it is not high, nor can it be called low land, but appears, when near it, of moderate height and flat: it is well covered with wood, and along the fea fhore were to be feen many huts of the natives, which were fmall and neatly made 5 they were chiefly built of bamboo, and generally lituated under the (hade of a grove of cocoa-nut trees, with a fence or railing before them, within which the ground was well cleared and trodden, which gave their little habitations a very neat and cleanly appearance : I examined whilft we lay there feveral neat and well fenced inclofures, in which were the plantain, banana, yam, fugar cane, and feveral other articles, which they feem to take fome pains to cultivate. Ia 1. An Inshumml camec in ,/ boat & ?mc4e thai AW is some fwKum ofdistinction on board her In fhort, from what we could difcover in the little time we remained chap, there, I may venture to pronounce the iiland a perfect, garden, as far as it can with propriety be called fo in the hands of a people, who, no ,79»-doubt, truft chiefly to nature, and who are ignorant of the means of affifting her, in the improvement of thofe advantages, which fhe has fo bountifully be flowed upon them. Although our time here was fo fhort, we had an opportunity of knowing that this iiland produced cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, bananas, fugar-cane, beetle-nut, mangos, bread-fruit, and guavas. There are alfo dogs, hogs, and the common fowls, and fome fpices, (the nutmeg I faw). Moft of the natives chew the beetle, and with it ufed the chenam and a leaf, as practifed in the Eaft-Indies; by which the mouth appeared very red, and their teeth, after a time, became black. Their canoes were neatly made, and of various lizes, with an outrigger to balance them. I fent the carpenter of the Sirius on fhore, to examine the different kinds of timber j he reported to me, that he found one tree which was hard, and had fomething like the appearance of ebony, but was not quite fo black ; all the others he tried were foft and fpongy, .like the palm or cabbage tree* The foil I think for richnefs beyond any I ever faw; it exceeded Norfolk Ifland in that refpect: I had a man with me who had been upon that ifland from its firft fettlement, and who had cleared and cultivated land there j he affured me that this was fuperior to any he had ever opened at that ifland. On On the 27th in the morning, we prepared for failing; before we got underway, two Englifh pointers, male and female, which had been given to the mafler o! the fhip at Port Jackfon, were fent on fliore, and given to a party of the natives, who feemed highly delighted with them ; a cock and hen were alfo given to them. At ten o'clock we failed out of the bay. This bay was named Port Pluntcr ; its latitude is 4" 7' 30" fouth, and longitude 1520 42' eaft; although it is not large, it is convenient and fife at this feafon ; it lies on the north-weft part of the iiland, and you may anchor in any part of it, from twenty-Eve to fift.cn fathoms, but the fhoal-water has the woift ground : in twenty fathoms it is foft, with loofc patches of coral; the watering place is on the eaft fide, but as the tide flows up to the place from whence the frelh water iffues, it is beft to fill from half ebb to half flood. The water is fo exceedingly foft, that there were fome amongft us wdio were fo prejudiced againft it that they believed it brackifli; a quality I own which I never could difcover in it; I was therefore of opinion that this prejudice could only have proceeded from knowing that the fait water was fo very near it at high water time; fuch opinions were not however confirmed from experience, as we never felt any inconvenience from it. The tide here feemed to rife five or fix feet, but the exact period of high water was not noticed, wc had fo much bufinefs to do. We fteered norrh-weft by weft, and weft-north-weft, and at eight o'clock in the morning, fiiw Sandwich Ifland, bearing north-weft ; at noon, our latitude was 13'fouth, and longitude 150" 42' eaft; the fouth-weft point of Sandwich Ifland bearing north 45' weft, diftant from the neareft fhore fix leagues. The latitude of the fouth-weft point will be 2° 58' fouth, and its longitude 150' 27' eaft. This iiland is oi moderate height, and well covered with wood; we paifed on the fouth fouth fide; its general direction is about eaft.-north.-eah: and weft-fouth- chap. ix weft, atid in that direction is about feven leagues in length : it appeared \_ to be of confiderable breadth at its eaftern end, and narrow towards its 1791, weftern, where it terminates in a narrow point, off" which lies a fmall woody ifland, with a narrow paffage between that and the main ifland, to which it appears connected by a reef. On the north fide of Sandwich Ifland, we obferved the remarkable peaked hill mentioned by Captain Carteret, and alfo the corresponding one on the coaft of New Ireland. As foon as we were pafled Sandwich Iiland, we obferved that the weftern current, which we had hitherto experienced in this ftrait, now took a turn more northerly, having opened the ftrait, or paffage between New Ireland and New Hanover, which laft land we faw before night. We fteered during the night weft by north by compafs, intending to pafs at a convenient diftance from the Portland Iflands, but at day-light we were obliged to haul up weft by fouth, having been more to the northward than we expected : we pafled them at four miles diftance ; they are nine in number, are low and covered with wood ; the center of them is in latitude 20 38'fouth, and longitude 149'' o3' eaft. During the night of the 30th, we had heavy dull weather, with light and variable May 30. winds, and the appearance of the wind threatened much rain, which, however, fell only in light fhowers. At feven the next morning, we faw an ifland bearing north-weft by weft, and at eight, faw more land from the maft-head, bearing weft ; thofe we fuppofed to be part of the Admiralty Iflands : the wind was now at fouth-weft, and we could not weather the fouthermoft, on which we bore away and pafled between them. The fmaller, which we left to leeward, was a pruty looking fpot, of moderate height, its latitude was 2' 19/ fouth, and longitude 147° 52' eaft. As we had feen much land, and in diifercnt directions, before dark, we determined to bring to for the nijghl; it then fell calm, fo that we had by chap, by the morning only drifted a little with a current to the north-wen:. jx. t_ ..t1 . At day-light of the 31 ft, we faw much land to the northward and I791, weftward. Five large canoes came off from the neareft iiland, in each May 31. Gf which were eleven men ; fix paddled, and five ftood up in the center of the boat, who appeared to be of the better fort, being painted and ornamented, and feemed as if intended for war ; but when they came near, they ihewed no hoflile appearance : we invited them by figns to come on board, but they would not venture near the (hip ; they held up various articles, which they feemed defirous of exchanging, fuch as lines, fhclls, ornaments of different kinds, and bundles of darts or arrows: they were a ftout well-looking people, rather darker than the natives of the Duke of York's Ifland; their hair appeared woolly, and and was knotted or tied upon the top of their head ; they wore a wrapper round their waifl. One of them made various motions for fhaving, by holding up fomething in his hand, with which he frequently fcraped his cheek and chin; this led me to conjecture, that fome European fhip had been lately amongft them, and I thought it not improbable, that it might have been Monf. de la Peroufe, in his way to the northward from Botany-Bay. Their canoes appeared from forty to fifty feet long, were neatly made, and turned a little up at the extremities ; there was a ftage which lay acrofs the midfhips of the boat, and projected out fome diftance on one fide j it was bent upwards a little at the outer end, to prevent its dipping in the water, by the motion of the boat; this ftage feemed intended for the warriors to ufe their weapons upon : on the op-pofite fide, was fitted in a different manner, an out-rigger to balance the boat; three of the rowers fat before and three abaft the ftage, fo that thofe intended for battle were not at all incommoded by them. A heavy black fquall coming on at this time, they all pufhed for the land, otherwife I believe we might have prevailed on them to come alongfide. The 00856055 The north-weft end of this iiland is in latitude 2° 21' fouth; longi- chap. IX. tude 1470 28' eaft ; and the fouthermoft point in fight was in latitude v— 2° 28' fouth, and longitude 1470 33' eaft. A frelh breeze now fprung »79*. up, and we wifhed if poflible to clear the iflands before night: all fail was made, and as we ran paft this large iiland, we raifed many others; in fliort, land was feen in every direction ; four iflands were feen from the maft-head, bearing eaft-north-eaft, and two low level iflands a-head, between which there appeared an open paffage; we fteered for it, and at noon pafled through it: its latitude is 2° 10' fouth; longitude 147° 26' eaft. At four in the afternoon, the weftern extremity of a very long ifland bore weft half fouth, and we fteered weft-north-weft, determined to run no farther during the night than we could fee before dark. The night was very dark, with heavy rain, and a very light air of wind j at day-light the extremity of a very large ifland, bore from fouth-eaft to fouth-weft by fouth ; at noon the latitude obferved was 1" 44' fouth, and the extremes of this iiland, as far as the eye could reach, bore from fouth 23° oo'eaft, to fouth 500 oo' weft, diftant from the neareft fhore five leagues. This iiland is fo very extenfive, that I believe it to be the largeft of the Admiralty Iflands : I do not think that we faw its weftern extremity, for as far as wc could difcern from aloft, trees were to be feen juft above the horizon: the weftermoft point feen from the fhip was in latitude i° 59/ fouth, and the longitude of it was 1460 30'eaft. This groupe of iflands is very extenfive, as well in a north and fouth direction as eaft and weft. Having now got to the weftward of the Admiralty Iflands, I confidered myfelf clear of St. George's Channel; and I agree perfectly with Captain Carteret, in thinking it a very fafe, and (to ihips bound northward, which want water,) a very convenient navigation; his chart was of much ufe to us in coming through, al- I i though, CHAP, though, had time permitted, confiderable additions, and fome improve-V-—v~> mcnts, might have been made to it. On the 3d of June, we fiw land, r79'* about two points before the (larboard beam; this proved to be two June3. iflands: at eight o'clock the next morning, we faw another ifland, bearing fouth 42" oo' weft ; and by interfecrions taken by the fhip's run, this laft ifland was ten leagues diftant; it was high land : at noon we determined that iiland in the fouth-weft to be in latitude 1" 36'fouth; longitude 145'3 35/ eaft; and thofe to the northward, I judged to be in latitude o° 55'fouth; longitude 146° 09/ eaft. I think it probable that thefe iflands may have been feen before, as in a general chart of thefe feas which I have feen, there are three iflands laid down nearly in this fituation. From thofe iflands we fteered to the north-weft and weft-north-weft, with light and variable winds, and fometimes fqually and very unfettled weather, with a difagreeable head-fea, againft which we made tth, very flow progrefs. On the 8th, at noon, by a confiderable number of very good lunar diftances, our longitude was found to be 1440 13' eaft, which agreed fo very near with our account carried on from the laft obfervations, that I think the longitude of the different lands, as marked in this Journal, will not be found very erroneous. In this part of our paffage, we faw many very large trees floating about the fea. We now found the fhip had fet fourteen or fifteen miles a day to the northward more than the log gave ; and in the parallel of 4" oo' north, or nearly, we found, that for the fpace of eight days, from the 19th, we had been fet to the eaftward at the rate of thirty-nine miles in the twenty-four hours; and there was much reafon to fear, that from the next obfervations for the longitude which we might have, we fhould have the mortification to find, »8th. that this eafterly current continued ; for at that time, (the 28th of June,) the wind feemed to be fet in from weft-north-weft to weft-fouth-weft. 30th, On the 30th died William Phillips, feaman, On On the 5th of July, by obfervations of the fun and moon, we were ch i> in longitude 140° 32' eaft, which was io° 10' eaftward of our account, c^-> and the wind continued fixed from the weftward. On the 1 ith of July, 179 neceffity obliged us to reduce the allowance of water; the whole ^uly allowance now to each man for all purpofes, cooking, drinking, &c. was two purfer's quarts for twenty-four hours, and the weather was exceedingly fultry, which made it the more diftrefting. On the 13th, ijtl I found it neceffary, from the very unfavourable profpecf before us, to call together my own officers, and the mafter of the fhip, and to con-fult upon the moft eligible plan to be purfued, for enabling us to reach fome port or fettlement, where it might be poflible to obtain fome fupply of provifions and water, fufficient for the relief of one hundred and twenty-one men, the number now on board this fmall veffel. The general opinion was, that it would be highly imprudent in the prcfent reduced ftate of our provifions and water, to perfevere any longer in an attempt to reach the ftrait of Macaffar, in the face of frefli wefterly winds and a ftrong eafterly current; particularly, in a veffel fo very ill conftrucled for working to windward ; and what rendered it ftill more neceffary to give up fuch an attempt in our fituation was, that the mafter of the fhip, (who had been a number of years in the Dutch fervice among the Molucca Iflands) affured me, in the prcfence of fome of the officers, that he did not know of any one place in our route, fliort of Batavia, where any fupply for our numbers could be had. The quantity of provifions now on board, at half allowance, was a fupply for about ten weeks, and the water at about two purfer's quarts a man per day, was a fupply for the fame time, provided we had no leakage. We were now driven by currents, notwithftanding our utmoft endeavours to get to the weftward, eleven degrees of longitude, or 220 leagues farther to the eaftward than the account by the fhip's run; and that I i 2 had had happened within the Lilt month, and between the latitudes 3" oo' north, and 6° 30' north. On the 13th of July wc bore away to the northward, it being determined either to attempt the ftrait through which the Acapulco ihips pafs to the port of Manilla, or to go round the north end of Luconia, and endeavour to fetch Macao, in China, though we were a little doubtful about fetching the latter in fo leewardly a veflel. It appeared from the winds that we then had, that the fouth-weft monfoon at times blows very ftrong through the opening between the iflands of Mindanao and Celebes, and reaches a confiderable way to the eaftward; I can with certainty fay as far as 1420 oo' eaft longitude. On the 14th in the morning, we faw land bearing north; this we found to be two iflands joined together, or nearly fo, by a long fandy fpit, above water, which reached for about two-thirds of the diftance from the eaftermoft or largeft iiland, to the weftmoft, which is fmall. All round the largeft is a fand-bank above water, which extends from the foot of the higher land about half a mile into the fea, and may have flioal water from it. We faw on the beach a few natives running along ihore, as the fhip failed paft. Thefe iflands are dangerous to people in the night, on account of the fandy fpits which project from them ; they were covered with lhrubs, and had but few tall trees on them, and the land is but low: the latitude of the large or eaft moft iiland, is 8° 06' north, and longitude 1400 03' eaft. I did at firft fup-pofe them to have been part of the New Carolines, but they feem to lie quite alone, and are about five miles afunder, I called them Phillip Iflands, after Arthur Phillip, the governor of New South Wales. On On the 17th of July in the morning, v/e faw land from the mate- ciiai» ix head, bearing weft by fouth nine or ten leagues diftant; at noon we could 1—__j fee it from the deck, and it appeared to be three iflands ; at four in the i7gi. afternoon, they bore fouth by weft three-quarters weft, and were by *v '7* interferons taken from the fhip, diftant eight leagues. A confiderable number of fifh being at that time round the fhip, the people, in looking over the fide at them, difcovered rocks under the bottom j we immediately founded, and had fifteen fathoms : the rocks appeared very large, with patches of white fand between them ; in twenty minutes, the water appeared to deepen, and we had no ground with forty fathoms of line. This ridge of rocks appeared to be about half a mile in breadth, and was feen from the maft-head to ftretch to the fouthward towards the iflands, and confiderably to the northward of the fhip y although it be of great extent in a north-north-eaft and fouth-fouth-weft direction, yet I do not think there is any very fhoal water upon it, for we law no break, furf, or rippling, which would indicate fhoal water; and there was a fufficient fwell of the fea to have occafioned fome appearance where any fhip would have ftruck the ground. Thefe iflands lie in the latitude of 90 33' north ; longitude 1370 30' eaft, and arc probably a part of the New Carolines ; at leaft, from the fituation of thofe iflands in the charts, they anfwer to the place of fome of them ; but as the New Carolines are marked as very numerous, and very contiguous to one another, I did expect to have feen many more ; there were of thefe, three only ; the largeft was very high, but not extenfive. From the time of our making thefe iflands until the 23d, when we were in latitude 1 ic 56' north; longitude 132° 20' eaft, we had light and variable winds, but chiefly from the eaftward j in the above latitude and longitude it inclined to the northward, and from that to the weftward, and became very fqually and unfettled weather, with very heavy rains at times: during thefe C?xA?' tne^e heavy fhowers, which were in our fituation very comfortable, —v--' whether in the day or night, every one was employed in fpreading his I79'* blanket or rug, for the purpofe of faving as much water as he could for his own ufe; for, as we had no means of providing a quantity for the general good, every one did the beft he could for himfelf. The fun being almoft vertical, and the weather exceedingly fultry, the fcarcity of water was very much felt. It continued this fqually and unfettled July 30. weather until the 30th, during fome part of which time it blew fo ftrong as to bring the fhip under her reefed courfes : after the 30th, the wind fhifted to weft and weft by fouth, with which we ftood to the fouthward ; for with this wind we could not now fetch the Bafhee Iflands, and upon the fouthern tack we could not reach in with any part of the coaft of the Philipine Iflands ; it was therefore, in our fituation, judged beft to keep as near in with the parallel of Cape Efpiritu Sanclo as poflible, that being the neareft land, which with a hope of a fliort fpurt of wind from the eaftward, or a flant either from the northward or fouthward, would ferve to carry us in with the coaft : we were then in latitude 1 30 25' north; longitude 12 8° 37'eaft; Cape Efpiritu Sanclo bearing fouth 750 00' weft, 58 leagues diftant. It was very clear to me, from the winds we had experienced fince we came to the northward of the Line, that at this time of the year, and generally during the height of the fouth-weft monfoon, in the China feas, thefe winds do fometimes extend far to the eaftward of the Philipine Iflands, and frequently blow in very heavy gales. The eafterly winds, which we had after crofling the Line, had been conftantly fo very light, that the run for the twenty-four hours, feldom exceeded from twenty to fifty miles. The wind now became very variable, but chiefly from the fouth-weft Aagwft 2. quarter. On the 2d of Auguft, it fhifted to weft-north-weft, and we ftood flood to the fouth-weft. On the 4th, we made the land, bearing wen:- chap. IX fouth-weft twelve leagues ; the next morning, it bore from weft-fouth- i ', f weft to weft, and at noon we faw it from fouth-weft to weft half fouth ; 1791. this proved to be the north end of the ifland of St. John, and is in latitude Ausllft 4-90 30'north ; longitude 1260 32' eaft. From the 31ft of July to this time, we had been fet to the fouthward one hundred miles. The wind being again fet in at fouth-weft, we could only now ftand to the fouthward, and avail ourfelves of the ftrong foutherly current which we every day experienced fo much affiftance from, and which we had fome reafon to hope would lead us to the fouthward of Mindanao : if this current fhould fail us, we could not expect to get to the fouthward, but muft then have fteered along the coaft to the northward, as far as Cape Efpiritu Sando, and enter the Strait of Manilla, where probably we might have found fome fettlement, fliort of that port, capable of affifting us with fuch relief as might have enabled us to proceed on our voyage. On the 6th, we faw the coaft of Mindanao from fouth to north-wefl by weft j it is very high land in the interior parts of the country, but moderately fo on the fea-coaft, which makes it rather difficult to judge of your diftance from it. The current to the fouthward ftill continued from thirty to fifty miles in twenty-four hours. On the 8th, in ftanding to the fouthward, we faw an ifland bearing Auguft 8. fouth five or fix leagues; this, from its fituation, muft have been the ifland of Palmas; it feemed to lie eaft by fouth, fixteen or feventeen leagues diftant from the fouth-eaft point of Mindanao; it is a high round hummock at the north-eaft end, and runs out in a low point to the fouth-weft, on which are a number of round lumps or hillocks, that at five leagues diftance appear like rocks juft above water. Its latitude *s 5* 33' north, and its longitude is 1270 oo' eaft. Being now to the a fouthward CHAP, fouthward of Cape Auguftine, which we never faw diftindly, we carried ix. t_ -.- > all the fail pofhble to get to the weftward. On the 9th in the after-'W.1* noon, the fouth-eaft point of Mindanao bore north 20° oo' weft, five AuSuIt 9- or flX leagues diftant. At day-light the next morning, the coaft of Mindanao bore from weft by north to north by eaft, and a high ifland weft by fouth, off fhore five leagues : at noon, the fouth point of Mindanao bore north 760 oo' weft: we intended to have pafled to the fouthward of this ifland, but the wind inclining from that direction, we could not weather it, we therefore bore away, intending to pafs between it and Mindanao. We now obferved that what we had taken for one ifland, was three diftind iflands $ the weftmoft is very high, and is that which Captain Carteret faw from his anchorage on the fouth coaft of Mindanao, and called Hummock Iiland; it appeared to be fix miles long from north to fouth ; the next, to the eaftward of it, is about the fame length, moderately high and level, and the eaftmofl of the three, is a little round fpot, covered with fmall trees or fhrubs ; from the eaft fide of this fmall ifland there is a reef ftrctches to the eaftward a confiderable diftance, and on which the fea generally breaks: the other iflands appear to be quite encircled by a reef, at the diftance of a cable and a half from the fhore. We paffed between the fmall ifland and the next, having previoufly fent a boat to try the channel; we found it a clear fafe paffage, of one mile and a half wide; we kept about onc-third of the diftance from the largeft iiland, and had from ten to twenty-five fathoms : in the fhoaleft water the ground was hard, but in fixteen and eighteen fathoms it was foft : here the tide or current fet ftrong through to the weftward; I rather think it a regular tide, for we did not drift at the fame rate all day. We continued to work between the fouth point of Mindanao and thefe iflands, during the remainder of the day; in the afternoon, a boat was feen coming off from the high ifland, with twelve perfons on board, and a white flag flying; we flood towards chap. them, and anfwered their fignal with a white flag at the enfign flaff; v^^^ they came within a little diftance of the {hip, and afked a variety of *79i* queflions, whether we came from Ternate, (a fmall ifland among the Moluccas, on which the Dutch have a factory) and if wc were going to Batavia \ to which they were anfwered in the affirmative ; the con-verfation v/as carried on in the Malay language* of which the mafter of the fhip had fome knowledge, and as he had for a part of his crew twelve or fourteen Javanefe, who all fpoke that language, and who alfo fpoke Dutch, we could be at no lofs to lie underftood, or to underftand thofe with whom we converfed. Dutch colours were hoifled to confirm the anfwer given: from this boat we learnt, that they were upon intimate and friendly terms with the Dutch, and that we might have as much water, wood, and various articles of refrefhment as we wanted. They defired to have a note from the mafter of the fhip to the Raja, by whom thefe iflands were governed, which was given them, with fuch information as might be neceffary. A larger boat armed came off alfo the fiime evening, but as it was dark they did not choofe to come on board, but converfed with us at a diftance. The next morning (the nth) we flood in for Hummock Atguftir, Ifland, and fent a boat in fliore to fearch for anchorage, which flic very foon made the fignal for having found; and at noon we came to in twenty-two fathoms water, over a bottom of coarfe fand and loofe coral, about one mile from the fliore. A fliort time before we got into anchorage, the fame canoe which had fpoken us the evening before, came off again with Dutch colours flying, and brought a note from the Raja to the mailer, written in the Malay characters, fignifying, that we fhould have what we wanted. K k In In the afternoon we fent a boat to look for water, which was found in great abundance under the high land near the north-eaft point of the iiland ; we went immediately to work to water the fhip, and very foon had a number of canoes from the fhore, on board, with a variety of re-frefhments, which we were very much in want of; a brink trade was carried on for poultry, goats, fruits of various kinds, honey, fago, and tobacco; but what we wanted principally was rice, to iffue to the fiilors at fea, being now exceedingly fliort of every fpecies of victualling. Thofe who were employed on fliore were kindly treated by the natives, and every thing bore the moft friendly and promifing appearance. This day the Raja, according to previous information, which he had given, came on board in a large boat, and did us the honour of a vifit; this boat was- covered with an awning of fplit bamboo ; he was attended by the perfon next in authority, and a confiderable number of people, and was, on his arrival, faluted with five guns. Upon this occafion, it was thought neceffary to have a party of ten men armed, placed1 on the top of the round houfe abaft, where they continued during the Raja's vifif. The Raja and his attendants were, on coming on board, led down to the cabin, and he had every mark of civility and attention fliewn to him: on his taking leave, he was prefented by the mafter of the fhip with a very handfome piece of filk, and on embarking in his boat, was faluted with a volley of mufquetry. While he remained on board much con-verfation pafled between him and the. mafter of the fliip, but it being carried on in the Malay language, I could only collect, that the Raja was ftrongly preffed to aftift us with a quantity of rice, or paddy, (which is the rice in hufk.) He fhewed us, while in the cabin, that he was fupported in his authority over thefe iflands by the Dutch Eaft-India Company, by producing his written appointment, which he had brought with him for that purpofethis writing I looked at, but being I in in the Dutch language, 1 did not underftand it, but obferved, that it was chap. ix. fubferibed by a number of officers in the Company's fervice ; I alfo per- _ ceived it was fubferibed by a very refpectable officer in the naval fervice of the States, with whom I had the pleafure of being a little acquainted, the laft time I was at the Cape of Good Hope : fo that the intcreft of the Dutch Company feemed to be well eftabliflied in thefe iflands. When the Raja left us, he promifed to be on board the next day, and faid, he would bring with him the articles that we were in want of. AH this time we were bufily employed in getting water on board, and refitting the rigging ; intending, as foon as the water was completed, to employ one day in cutting wood. The next day, (the 14th) in the afternoon, the Raja again came on Auguft board, but, to our very great difappointment, inftead of the expected fupply, he produced four fmall bafkets of fago powder, and one bag of paddy, which would fcarcely have maintained two men for a week; this return for the civilities he received the day before, was by no means a proper one, particularly as I was told he had been given to underftand, that we were much in want of provifions, and he had been greatly preffed for a quantity of paddy, fufficient to ferve two hundred men, *ntil we could reach Batavia, to which place he was told we were going ; and he was alfo informed, that it fhould be paid for in bar iron and other articles. Our demand was more than perhaps might have been neceflary, but it was made large from an opinion that we might not get near the quantity applied for. We had reafon to believe, that the ifland could well furniih the fupply we had afked for, without any inconvenience to the inhabitants; for eight hundred weight, had been pur-chafed out of a common boat the day before, for a few pieces of bar Kk 2 iron> iron, and the natives appeared to make more ufe of fago and fruits than of paddy: the mailer of the fhip ihevved fome difpleafure, and I own (if he had made our wants well undcrflood the day before, which I had my doubts of) ©ot without caufe : he came to me at the gangway, and told me he intended to detain the Raja until he fent fome of his boats on fhore for the paddy wanted: I advifed him againft any violent mea* fures, left our wants had not been perfectly underftood; and that I did not fee, that it could, in our prefent fituation, anfwer any good end : at this time we had a boat and feveral people on fliore. I recommended to him to endeavour to make the Raja underftand, that unlefs he fent for the fupply we had afked, and he had promifed, that he, as commander of the Company's fhip, would reprefent his conduct to the governor and council at Batavia, who would certainly take notice of it; I thought a threat of that fort might anfwer our purpofe better than the means he propofed: for we were in no refpect prepared for a quarrel with thofe people, the mcaneft of whom Wore a crefs or dagger conftantly by his fide, and the decks were at that time almoft full of them; many of our people were alfo upon deck, but wholly unarmed and off their guard. The mafter of the fhip returned, and entered again into converfation with the Raja, who was on the after part of the quarter deck, but what was Jfaid I did not underftand: however, I joined them, and again recommended prudence and moderation to the mafter of the fhip, and defired he would recollect, that we were not prepared for fuch violent meafures as he feemed inconfiderately difpofed to; that as there were a few ftand of arms in the fhip, and a few pairs of piftols amone the officers, they fhould have been upon deck, and people ftationed with ammunition for them; inftead of which, we had not one armed man upon deck, nor a fingle neceffary for ufing the carriage guns; all which o refted rcftcd with him, fuch articles being in his care and cuflody as mafter, for his owners : notwithflanding this, the violence and perverfenefs ofu his temper was fuch as to difpofe him (probably becaufe he was advifed againft it) to create a difagrcemcnt between thofe people who were all armed, and our people who wTere defencelefs. Some of thefe iilanders paid much attention to the nature and extent of our force, and fome of them fhrewdly obferved,. that the great guns were very good at a diftance, but of no ufe when boats got alongfide of the ftiip j if they had any fear of us, it proceeded from our numbers, which amounted now to one hundred and twenty, and when all upon deck in this fmall veffel, they appeared ftill more numerous. During the conversation between the Raja and mafter of the fhip, our people were employed in hoifting the long boat in, at which the Raja feemed very much agitated, and at this very juncture, the mafter having ordered fome cutlaffes upon deck, of which he had but very few in the fhip, they were imprudently laid down on the quarter deck, in the prefence of the Raja and his attendants ; this conduct confirmed me in the opinion I already entertained, that he had made ufe of fome threats which made fuch preparation neceffary : be that as it might, the Raja was alarmed for his liberty ; his people took the alarm alfo, and called their companions from their boats, who boarded us with drawn daggers : an old man, about feventy years of age, who ftood near the Raja and held him by the fleeve, drew his dagger, and in great rage endeavoured to reach and. ftab the mafter of the fhip, but was held back by the Raja ; on this, the mafter matched up a hanger to defend himfelf, and with great vehemence called out for fmall arms. I was clofe to him at the time, and however much I difapproved of his general conduct, (which was certainly, in our unguarded fituation, deftitute of thought, common fenfe, or difcretion, and was the effect of one of the moft perverfe and diabolical lical tempers I ever met with,) I judged it neceflary to draw my fword and defend him: he continued to call for fmall arms with much agitation, which fliould have been previoufly prepared. A number of my failors being on the fore part of the deck, trading with the natives, (a confiderable number of whom were on board, but who all drew their crefles upon the alarm given by their countrymen) armed themfelves with handfpikes, billets of wood, or whatever lay in their way, while the "petty officers of the Sirius got up the fmall arms, and kept up a fhiart lire on the natives, who were in a fliort time driven overboard; fome into their boats, and others were obliged to take to the water; the Raja, during the fcuffle, tumbled himfelf from the gun wall into his boat, accompanied by his faithful attendants, who certainly did themfelves much honour by their attention to his fafety. If I had been prepared with my loaded piftols, as I was upon the Raja's firfl. viflt, I fliould certainly have fliot the old man before-mentioned, although I am fure, that upon a little ferious reflection, and coniideration of the motives of his conduct:, I fliould have exceedingly regretted having done fo.: he certainly in fome refpect occafioned the diflurbance, (although it originated with the mafter of the fhip) but it was in confequence of an indignity offered to the perfon of his fovereign in his prefence : wc fhould, therefore, be difpofed more to commend than condemn his conduct ; the infult was too much for a loyal and affectionate fubject to bear; he therefore preferred certain death in his defence, to that of living to fee him fo degraded. As foon as the Raja and his people were in their boat, they cut the rppe which held them, and pulled from the fhip with the utmofr. precipitation ; many were killed in their boats, which (now that this ■ajfaii" had arrived at fuch length) became really neceflary, to prevent their "heir rallying and reboarding the fhip ; for after they got into their chap. boats, many lances were thrown into the fhip, which occafioned the —> Bre of mufquetry to be kept up fomething longer than it would have *79*« been. I faw the Raja pulling at an oar himfelf, and did every thing in my power to prevent his being fliot: for as every perfon knew him by his drefs, it was probable he might be particularly marked; I fear much he was wounded, perhaps mortally, notwithftanding my endeavours to fave him, as he dropt his oar feveral times : during the fhort time, which I had been in his company, I was much pleafed with him; there \ as a certain graceful cafe and affability in his manner, which was highly prepoffeffing, and a degree of dignity, which befpoke him of fuperior rank : he appeared to be about forty-three or four years of age. In this unlucky rencontre, we were fo fortunate as not to have a man Wounded, which was rather extraordinary, and I believe muft. have been owing to the panic occafioned by fo fudden and unexpected an alarm.- Our boat returned from the fhore juft at the conclufion of this unlucky fcuffle ; which common prudence, or a difpofition to benefit by the advice that had been offered, might have prevented , for whatever may be the natural difpofition of the inhabitants of thefe iflands, they had fhewn nothing either unfriendly or fufpicious to us j at the fame time, to place implicit confidence in the friendly difpofition of fuch people, I think, would be highly imprudent. A fhip calling here for water fhould be ever on her guard, a precaution which was not in any one refpect taken by the mafter of the fhip, except upon my propofing, on the Raja's firft vifit, to have ten of my men placed with fmall arms upon the top of the round houfe abaft, from,which fituation they could command the whole deck : this propofal he agreed to, which was more than. I expected ; for it was no uncommon thing with him to reject any plan, chap, plan, however neceffary, which his duty mould have fuggefted, without IX. v-—' the afliftance of other opinions. 1791. Thefe obfervations I cannot help making ; for they naturally arife from the diftreffmg fituation in which I found myfelf and officers who were placed under the direction of this moft ignorant and difagreeable man. If he had felt himfelf qualified to have navigated a (hip in the feas we had to pafs through, his conduct would in all probability have been more unfufterable, if poflible, than it was ; but our afliftance was abfolutely neceffary, otherwife I believe his veflel had never reached Batavia. At eight o'clock in the evening we weighed from the road and put to fea; one unfortunate Javanefe feaman was by accident left on fhore, but he fpoke a language which moft of thefe people underftand. I therefore hope it might be the means of faving his life, but as their rage, when once roufed, does not quickly fubfide, I feared much for the fafety of this innocent man : this unlucky affair prevented our being able to complete our water, or cut any wood; however, wc had filled as much as would prevent our being diftreffed for fome time, and the failors had received many refrefhments, of which they were much in need. Thefe iflands, I have already mentioned, are three in number: Hummock Ifland, on which the Raja refides, is exceedingly fertile, and feemed to produce moft of the tropical fruit; we found here rice, fugar cane (exceedingly fine and large), pine apple, mango, four oranges, limes, jack, plantain, cocoa-nut, figo, fweet potatoes, tobacco, Indian corn, and a fmall kind of pea : dogs, goats, fowls (very fine), parrots, and many other more ufeful articles; but I judge that their principal article of trade with the Dutch is bees-wax, of which they appear to have a confiderable quantity, and of courfe much honey. The BATAVIA. 25 The illands lie about five leagues fouth, from the fouthern point of chai\ IX Mindanao: the road where we anchored is on the north-eaft: fide of \-— Hummock Ifland, and is in latitude 5° 27' north, longitude 125° 12' eaft: *79*« thfere appeared to be a paffage between this iiland and the next to it, lying in a north and fouth direction, but there is a long rocky fpit, which runs from a low point on Hummock Ifland, and feems to throw the channel through upon the other fliore: we had not an opportunity to examine it, but we found here a regular tide, which was high at full and change of the moon at feven o'clock, and rofe by the fhore fix or feven feet. There were feveral inlets or openings on the weft fhore of the other ifland, which may be probably convenient and well fheltered coves. The articles, which feemed of moft value here in exchangeYor ftock, Were light cloathing of white or printed linens, or cottons, fuch as loofe gowns or jackets, coloured handkerchiefs, clafp knives, razors, and bar iron; metal buttons had for fome time a good run, which a ftranger on board here would foon have perceived, as there was fcarcely a coat or jacket to be feen upon deck with a button on it. The natives on thefe iflands are the fame fort of people, and fpeak the fame language, as people on Mindanao-t they have a great deal of the Malay both in appearance and difpofition; they are nearly the fame fize, make, and colour, and have many of their features j they wore in general jackets and troufers, but the lower orders had feldom any thing but a wrapper round the waift; they commonly wore a handkerchief, or other piece of linen round the head, in the manner of a turban. In the fafh or wrapper, which all wear round the waift, they had their crefs-or dagger ftuck, the fcabbard of which was a cafe of wood. Many of thefe natives were troubled with a difeafe much refembling the leprofy; their L 1 fkins 2sS A VOYAGE" TOT chap, fkins were covered with a dry fcurf, like the fcales of a fifh, which had ix. . j \—-v--' a very difagreeablc appearance.. J791. f- Their canoes were of various fizes ; the bottom is hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, and they were generally raifed with an upper work of fplit bamboo, which was fet very clofe and light; they had an outrigger on each fide to balance them 5 they had alfo a larger boat on which they mounted three fmall pieces of cannon, of brafs; thefe pieces, I was told, were of their own manufactory, which I could readily believe, as they were of a very different make to any I had ever feen; they were very long, and of narrow bore, and- were mounted with a fwivelj upon ports, placed one at each end, and one in the center of the boat ■ they had a long wooden tail fixed to them, by which they turn about and point them. Thefe boats will contain and conceal a great number of men; they were commonly covered with an awning of fplit bamboo, raifed fome diftance above the gunwall, like the ridge of a houfe; Their mart was compofed of three bamboos, two of which flood as a pair of fheers, and required no fhrouds j the third flood forward, and anfwered the purpofe of a flay; and upon this mart they fet a fquare fail. On Hummock Iiland, as well as the fouth fide of Mindanao; were many pleafant looking fpots, which appeared to be cultivated land. When we left thefe iflands, the wind being from the weftward, we fleered to the fouthward. At feven o'clock in the morning, we faw a fmall ifland, bearing fouth-weft; at ten, we faw two more, and by four in the afternoon of the i cth, there were feven iflands in fiVht, hearing from fouth-weft to weft-north-weft : at fix o'clock we fiw a large ifland a-head, with a number of fmaller ones, and fome fingle rocks of confiderable confiderable height above the water, lying off it: at noon, we were near CHAP. over a bottom of coarfe fand and coral; one of the fmall iflands was diftant little more than a mile. This ifland, which is very high land, is that laid down in the chart by the name of Poolo Sanguy : we obferved the latitude of its north end to be 30 44/ north, and its longitude 125° 11' eaft; there is a continued chain lying in a north and fouth direction from the fouth coaft of Mindanao thus far to the fouthward; and, by fuch charts as I have feen, this chain feems to be continued from Poolo Sanguy quite over to the north-eaft point of Celebes. Poolo Sanguy is a large tract of land. The wind now inclined from the fouthward, other-wife we fliould have ftood on, with a view of reaching fome of the Dutch fettlements amongft the Molucca Iflands, in order to endeavour to procure fome fort of fupply of provifions, as we were now reduced very low; but with this foutherly wind we could only ftand to the weftward and pufli for the Strait of Macaffar : the wind continued from the fouthward and fometimes from the fouth-eaft, but in very light airs. At daylight in the morning of the 25th, we made the ifland of Celebes, bearing from fouth 110 00' eaft, to fouth 540 00' eaft, diftant eight or nine leagues : at noon on the 26th, the north-weft point of Celebes bore fouth-fouth-eaft about ten leagues. This part of the coaft runs down in a low point into the fea, and a little way back, rifes in a round hill or hummock, but confiderably lower than the back land, which is very high, from this point the land feems to take its direction about iouth-weft by weft. The latitude of the north-weft point is V 22' north, and the longitude, by lunar obfervations, 121° oo' eaft. enough to obfervc, that feveral of the rocks and fmaller iflands had reefs u—v-lying from them, on which the fea broke. Here we found a ftrong 179*-fouth-weft fet of current; we founded, and had feventy-two fathoms, T 1 x On CHAP. On the 27th at noon the land of Celebes was diftant about eight or IX. » *_•_* nine leagues; between us and the fouthermoft land in fight there was a 1791- fmall iiland. Ever fince we had made the coaft of Celebes we had very Auguft 27. jittje tiln^ and that had generally been from fouth-eaft to fouth-weft ; no current was perceptible \ the weather was exceedingly fultry ; the frefheft winds we had were from fouth-weft ; on which account, we endeavoured 29th, to get over on the Borneo fliore. At four fa the morning of the 29th, we had a very heavy fquall from weft-n -ft, which obliged us to 30th, clew all up. On the 30th, at five in the morning, we faw the iiland of Borneo, bearing weft-north-weft ; this part of the coaft is high land : we faw, at the fame time, from the maft-head, a fmall ifland, bearing weft-north-weft ; this I took to be one of the fmall iflands which arc laid down to the fouthward of the Taba Iflands, and near in upon the coaft : at eight in the evening, we tacked, and in the night, the wind came from the land, but fqually, with which we ftood to the fouthward.. This part of the coaft of Borneo feems to be a projecting point, and is' 5>ft> in the latitude of i° 02' north; longitude 119* oo' eaft. On the 31ft, at day-light, the land of Celebes bore eaft by north half north ; we had September j. a heavy fquall of thunder, lightning, and rain. On the 1 ft of September, about eight o'clock at night, when it was very dark, we fuddenly difcovered fomething on our weather quarter, which had much the appearance of a large row-boat, and there being but a very light air of wind, we prepared, with all poflible filence, for the reception of a pirate; but as it did not approach us as we expected, we fuppofed it to have been a large tree adrift. In croffing from Celebes to Borneo and back, we pafled nearly over the place where feven iflands are laid down in the charts, about oon 40' to the northward of the line; but, as we faw nothing, I conclude, as Captain Captain Carteret did, " that they exift only upon paper;" or that they chap. may have been fome of thofe iflands which have been feen near the > —j coaft, and by an incorrect account of their fituation, in point of longi- i79U rude, have been placed here in mid-channel. In the morning, the Ifland of Celebes bore from eaft half north to fouth-fouth-eaft, and a fmall ifland covered with wood bore fouth-eaft half eaft, four or five miles diftant. This ifland is in latitude oo" 03' fouth, longitude 1190 54/ eaft; it lies off the opening of a large bay. On the 5th, we were September-j.. in the latitude of oo" 50' fouth, and longitude 1190 06' eaft, and were about fix or feven leagues from the coaft of Celebes ; here the land near the fea is of a moderate height, but the back land is remarkably high. On the 7th, we faw two large proas, in the fouth-weft ; we were 7th* ftanding towards them, and as they were at fome diftance from each other, the one bore down and joined the other, and both ftood for the land; we however judged it neceflary to be prepared for them all the fucceeding night : they might have been trading veffels, but as they can conceal their numbers, and as we knew that thefe feas are infefted with piratical veffels of that description, it was neceflary for us to be on our guard. At noon we were in latitude r 47' fouth; longitude 118° 50' eaft, and no part of the Celebes fhore in fight. I am convinced, from the many obfervations made for the longitude here, by myfelf, as well as by Lieutenants Bradley and Waterhoufe, that the weft coaft of Celebes is laid down in all the charts which I have feen, much farther tq.the weftward than it fliould be. On the 8th, in the evening, we were 8th> looking out for the Little Pater Nofters, being near the latitude of their north end, as determined by Captain Carteret; but although we ftood to CHAP, to the weftward all night, we faw nothing of them ; I therefore fuppofe IX they lay nearer the Celebes fhore than we were at this time. On the J79'' 9th in the morning, obferving the water much difcoloured, we founded* September 9. a^ thirty-five fathoms over a fandy bottom ; foon after, we faw, from the maft-head, a fmall fandy ifland, bearing fouth-weft by weft : at noon we were within five miles of it, and obferved feveral flioals breaking to the northward and fouthward of it, with fome dry patches of find. Thefe fhoals have been taken by fome for the Little Pater-Nofters, but are called by the Dutch, the Triangles; they lie in latitude 2° 58' fouth ; longitude 1170 53' eaft : they are fo very low, -that a fhip in the night would be afhore before they could be perceived; there are good foundings at fome diftance to the eaftward of them. The whole time we had been in this ftrait, the wind had been variable from fouth-fouth-weft to weft-north-wTeft; in the night it fometimes inclined in very light airs from fouth-fouth-eaft to fouth. On iah, the nth, in the afternoon, as we were ftanding to the weftward, the water appeared fuddenly of a very light colour, and on looking over the fide, we perceived the ground under the fhip : before we had time to heave a eaft of the lead, it appeared to be deeper, and we had ten and twelve fathoms; but I am inclined to think, from what I faw of the bottom, that there could not have been more than five or fix : the bottom was white fand, with fome dark patches upon it. From the maft-head, at the fame time, was feen a dry fand-bank, bearing north-north-eaft fix miles diftant; a little way to the eaftward of it, the water feemed to break. This fhoal is very dangerous, and does not appear in any chart which I have feen : there is a fhoal marked in the Dutch charts, nearly in the fame parallel, but it is fo very much mifplaced in its longitude, or diftance from the land, that I cannot fim"ofe it has been meant for the fame fame fhoal. The latitude of this fhoal is 30 37-' fouth, and the longitude 1170 54'eaft; it extends from the two fmall iflands 'which are called the Brothers, and lie off the eaft. part of Borneo, eaft half north, diftant fifty-one miles: we made the Brothers at day-light in the morning, after pafling this fhoal, and at ten o'clock we paffed within three miles of them, in from twenty-two to feventeen fathoms water, over a fandy bottom. The latitude of the Brothers is 30 41' fouth, and the longitude 1170 oo' eaft. Wc ftood on to the fouth-weft, after pafling the Brothers, expecting that courfe would have carried us clear of every part of Borneo* but the fouth part of Borneo, and the large ifland called Poolo La'oct* form a confiderable bight: into this bight we found a. ftrong in* draught, by which, and the wind being light, we were drawn, and could not fetch round Borneo ; we ftood off and on there with light and baffling winds, and a fhort chop of a fea, and gained no ground : after pafling two days and a night in this fituation, we got a breeze, which enabled us to weather the Brothers again, and ftand to the eaftward, where we had more room. This-fituation gave me fome uneafy moments; for we dropt in fo fa ft upon the fliore, that we found it neceffary to prepare for anchoring; this would have occafioned a lofs of time, which, from a variety of circumftanccs, we could not afford : the anchorage off here is clear foft ground,' and fhoals regularly to the fhore; we had twelve fathoms four miles off. This bight ought to be carefully avoided, for certainly during the prevalence of the eafterly monfoon here, there is a very ftrong fet into it : it would be much better for fhips bound to the weftward to get as far to the fouthward as the fouth point of Borneo, before they ftretched to-the weftward of the Brothers, unlefs they may have a frefli gale that they can depend on. The fouthermoft part of Borneo which we faw, lies in latitude 4" oo' fouth, and longitude 1160 35' eaft, but there is land to the fouthward of that, which appeared to us like. two CHAP, two iflands, on the northcrmoft of which are two remarkable round IX. hills; whether thefe are really iflands, or any part of Borneo, we could 1791, not afcertain ; but in all the charts the fouth part of Borneo is laid down farther fouth than that land which we at firft fuppofed to be it, and agrees nearly with this which appeared to us like two iflands, the fouthermoft of which is in latitude 4° 15' fouth, and longitude 115° .eaft. Having determined after we got out of this bight and to the eaftward of the Brothers, to endeavour to get nearer the Celebes fliore, and 'to work up on that fide to the fouthward of 40 oo' fouth latitude, before we.fliould attempt to crofs the meridian of the Brothers, we ftood to the eaftward, and had the wind in the fore part of the day from fouth-fouth-eaft and fouth-eaft, and after fun-fet it inclined to the fouth-weft, but in very light airs; however, with thefe Hants we got fouthing; but if ever the fouth-fouth-eaft breeze-continued long enough to c rry us in fight of the fouth eaft part of Borneo, we were then fure to be fet to the northward: Sept. 15. this having been the cafe, on the 15th, it obliged us to fLnd to the eaftward, although it were an unfavourable tack. At day-light in the morning, we tacked to the fouthward, and again fell in with the dry fand-bank already mentioned ; we pafled it at four miles diftance, and had thirty-five fathoms water (to the eaftward). The dry part of this fand-bank is fo very fmall, that in bad weather the fea muft break entirely over it: there is regular foundings between it and the Brothers, from twenty-five to feventeen fathoms. Being now determined not to ftand farther to the weftward than we could by that means gain fouthing, we, by the different 19th, changes of the wind, got, hy the 19th, as far as 40 42' fouth latitude: that morning, as we were fleering to the weftward, ground was difcovered under the fhip, which of courfe drew every body on deck; we had ten fathoms, over a rocky bottom, which we fiiw very diftincf ly. The latitude .of this ridge is 40 35' fouth, and longitude, obferved that g morning, x E The Zand OT*\Eiidrachl discovered tO'to' L L A >T J) f>. V. do Wilts /'r. —^..tpih-timnr, .'/'ii.(trait I imorlaiiH Q —\ • VUmv'v- Aw/v Chart Shewing fixe Track of the WA AKSAMHEY 1) TBANSPOUT from Etart Jackson /// . \ *EW SOI TH W. l LE.s\ to Batavia, in 179'i. Gilolo hnn/.il.tiu/f j • U'otin.,'.' ''I Ililll / / Mtxn.twio V ■KjyiritiiSiim.i 1 f . I'uhlislfJ .i.r the Act .Hint.* hy ,l.S\orkt\n\i.'AY/>C00^17*,a . morning is 117* 19/ eaft: I judge that it muft extend from fome fmall chap. ix. iflands, which are laid down in moft of the charts, and which we fup» <—j pofed lay at that time directly to the fouthward of us, but we faw 1791. nothing of them. Scptembe From this reef we fteered weft-fouth-weft, and at fix in the afternoon, we faw an ifland bearing weft half fouth j we hauled to the fouthward to weather it, and at day-light in the morning of the 20th, it bore 20, north, diftant feven leagues; its latitude is 4° 56' fouth, and the longitude obferved that morning 1150 40' eaft; this we fuppofed to be Poolo Laut: we kept the lead going all night, and had from twenty to twenty-eight fathoms5 the wind frefh from fouth-eaft by fouth. We continued to fteer weft-fouth-weft, and, for about fourteen leagues, wc crofted a flat of fixtcen fathoms. At midnight on the 21ft, we faw an 2r* ifland bearing weft-north-weft three or four miles diftant; this we fuppofed to be the ifland of Solombo; its latitude is 50 42' fouth, and the longitude 1140 24'eaft. We continued to fteer to the weftward, and had from twenty-five to thirty-five fathoms until day-light in the morn-ing of the 23d, when we made the iflands called Cariman Java; the middle or principal one is large, and of very confiderable height; it is encompaffed by many fmaller ones, fome of which are well covered with wood: the latitude of the fouth fide of thefe iflands is 50 21' fouth, and the longitude 110" 33'eaft. On the morning of the 24th, we faw a 2+ number of water fpouts and whirlwinds, fome of which- came fo very near that we fired a few guns, in hopes that the concullion of the air would have difperfed them ; but our guns were too fmall to give a fuf-ficieht fhpek to. the-atmofpherc ; however, a good breeze of wind iprung up and carried us clear of them. We fteered from Cariman Java, weft, and in the evening of the 25th, we made the fmall iflands called the 2;. M m Boomkins, chap. Boomkins, which lie about five leagues from the Coaft of Java; we ix. \_ t-- > palfed about three miles within them,, and faw the fhore of Java. During 179** part of the night we fteered weft-north-weft to avoid fome funken September. rocks which are laid down to the weftward. The fouth fide of the Boomkins lies in latitude 50 56' fouth, and longitude 108° 21' eaft. In the morning, we faw Carawang Point on Java, bearing fouth-fouth-37. weft fix or feven miles; and at five in the afternoon of the 27th, we anchored in Batavia Road; after a patfage from Port Jackfon of twenty-lix weeks. A TABLE A TABLE of the Winds and Weather, &c. 5cc. on a Paflagte from Port Jackfon, New South Wralcs, to Batavia, in the Waaksamheid Tranfport. j Year, Month, and Day. Latitude in Longitude in > Winds. it s « P a ■» 3 .n C o B3 2 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4i 4 4 3 4 5 4 4 3 Moon's Age. Weather* &c. Sccv i--' 1791. March ; 29 3° 3' April i 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 *3 14 »5 16 *7 South. $3 *3 33 43 34 23 35 °9 35 16 35 37 35 44 35 23 34 42 33 4? 32 $4 33 00 33 27 33 07 33 T9 33 35 3* 14 3" 07 3° oc 29 Eaft. V53 11 152 48 1 S3 19 '53 3° '53 5° J54 3° 155 40 156 30 r57 20 158 50 '59 36 160 00 160 1 $ 159 °9 159 50 161 10 162 20 164 03 165 41 166 47 S. S. E. | E. N. E. ) I Variable. 3 Variable. E, N. E. ; N. E. to > I s. w. J W. N. W, f North to ) 1 N. VV. f N. W. S. E. E. N. E. E. N. E, N. E. N. N. E. Variable. N. N. E. N.N. E. S. w. S. E. 5. E. S E. 0 72 71 71 70 75 70 69} 7°I 74 72 7i 71 74 71 70 69 68 68} Day 26 27 28 29 3° 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 *3 14 *5 VTodcratc and fair. Light airs and fair, inclinable to calm. Light airs and hazy, inclinable to calm. f P. M. CloUdy with frequent fqualls. A. M. \ fair. Cl\ M. Squally with thunder, lightning. < and rain. A. M>, heavy rain with much ( thunder and lightning. 1 P. M. a light breeze, dull, and cloudy. < A. M. lightning with diftant thunder | and heavy fhowers of rain. | P. M. clear. Middle, fqually with thunder I and rain. A. M. hazy end fqually. Moderate breezes, hazy, and cloudy. Light airs and fair. Light airs and cloudy. Light breezes and fair, j P. M. frelh breezes and fquallyk A. M. | moderate and clear. Light breezes and clear. Calm and clear. Light airs and fair. ( F» M. moderate and fair. A. M. fqually, < with ftiowers. Died Lieutenant George [ William Maxwelh { Variable ; fometimes fair, fometimes fqual-< ly, with rain ; wind moderate in ge-( neral. ? P. M. fqually, with rain. A, M. frefh I gales and cloudy. (P.M. frefh gales and cloudy. A.M. ) fqually and light aim alternately. Ur\»M. ftrong fqualls and light airs altcr-< nately. A. M. more moderate and 1 fettjed. ... i. M m 3 April 1$ i ear, u C Month, a Longi- Winds. B 0 e 0 2 * B „;. .-. 5 u and Day. tude in Tberrr ter at ! C in 1791. South. Eaft. Day April , 0 s 0 18 28 38 it>7 09 S. E. 7' 5 16 19 27 24 167 05 E. N. E. 74 4 2o 26 02 167 3' Eaft. 74 4 18 21 24 40 [68 °3 E. S. E. 74 '9 22 23 16 [68 21 S. E. 72-f 5 20 Offthe ifle of Pines 23 22 45 E. S. E. 72 4 21 24 *3 07 167 T5 E. N. E. 72 3 22 25 2 3 [65 12 E. S. E. 731 76 5 23 26 22 40 164 09 Eaft. 4 24 27 21 38 163 02 S. E. 3 25 28 20 40 162 00 S. E. 73 3 26 29 [9 33 (6o 50 S. E. 7^ 2 27 3° l7 3* 161 09 S. E. 76 2 28 May 1 16 24 161 43 S. E. 78 29 2 14 42 162 22 S.E. 80 2 1 3 *3 17 [63 02 E. S. E. n 2 4 11 43 '63 3° E. S. E. 82 2 3 5 r 1 04 [63 33 E. S. E. 82 2 4 6 to 25 163 2T Variable. 84 2 5 7 10 02 '63 01 North. 81 2 6 8 9 33 [63 22 Variable. 83 2 / 9 8 24 ^3 14 S. E. 83 2 8 10 7 46 162 44 E. S. E. 84 3 9 11 7 »i 161 55 S. E. 85 3 10 12 6 '4* 161 CO Eaft. 84 i 11 x3 6 01 '59 44 S. E. h 12 14 5 3< 158 5r E. S. E. ^3 '3 15 5 2. r58 02 E. N. E. 83 4 14 Weather, &c. &c. fqually j Frefh breezes and cloudy. A. M. light fhow ( crs of rain. Moderate and fair. Frefli gales, with a crofs, confided fea. ' P. M. frefli gales and cloudy. A. M with rain, and very unfettled. Moderate breezes and cloudy. CP. M. frefh gales and fqually. A.M. frefli s gales and fair. Eaft point of the ifle of ( Pines, north 520 oo' eaft, i P. M. frelh gales and fair. A. M. ditto, with < fqualls. At noon ifle of Pines, north 36* ( oo' call 12 leagues. Moderate and lair. Light breezes and clear. Moderate and clear. P. M. moderate and cloudy Frefli gales and cloudy. " P. M. frefli gales and cloudy, fqualls with fmall rain. a. M. frefli gales. A. M. heavy Frefli gales with frequent heavy fqualls. S Strong gales with heavy fqualls. Saw much 2 drift wood. Frefli gales and cloudy. Squally and thick, with heavy rain, j P. M. freiii gales and cloudy. Middle, calm. A. Mi moderate and cloudy. Moderate breezes and fair. Squally and unfettled. j P. M. inclinable to calm. A. M. light breezes 2 and fair. ) Light breezes and clear. A.M. faw a grouj ( of fmall iflands, five in number. P. M. moderate breezes and clear. A. M fqually with lightning and rain. At noon, calm and fultry. Light airs and cloudy. \ Moderate and fair. A. M. faw feveral ]ar« 48 53 South. 84 4 28 30 2 29 148 13 Variable. 83 4 29 3* 2 10 147 27 S. W. 81 4 3° June I 1 44 146 40 South. 83 3 1 2 1 26 146 20 S.W.byW. Hi 4 2 3 1 08 145 5° S. W. 83 4 3 I A. 269 Weather, &c. &c. Light airs and very fullry. P. M. calm and cloudy with light fhowers. A. M. frefh breezes and fqually with rain. Frefli breezes and cloudy. Saw three fmall iflands, bearing W, N. VV. and high land, bearing S. W. { Moderate and cloudy. At noon, faw land < hearing from W. to W. N. W. 9 or 10 ( leagues. f P. M. light breezes and cloudy. At fix < Cape Saint George, N. 8o° oo' W. 5 ( leagues. A. M. thunder and lightning, !Light airs and cloudy ; (landing in for Gower's Harbour, but could not fetch it; ft retched over to New-Britain. J Light airs and hazy. At noon, anchored I in a fmall bay, Duke of York's Ifland. Cloud)'. Clear. At anchor in Port Hunter Duke of York's Ifland. Cloudy. Cloudy with rain, f P. M. calm and hazy. A. M. moderate < and cloudy ; failed from Duke of York's / Ifland. C Frefli breezes and cloudy. At noon, S. W. < point of Sandwich Ifland, N. 450 00' ( W. off fhore 5 or 6 leagues, f Moderate and cloudy. A. M. faw the < Portland Iflands bearing N. 490 E. 4 ( leagues. (Little wind, dull, and hazy, with light-•< ning, thunder, and rain. A. M. feveral / of the Admiralty Iflands in fight. (P. M. moderate and cloudy. Middle, < lightning, thunder, and rain ; many of f the Admiralty I (lands in fight. !P. M. light breejzes. and heavy rain ; ftill among the Admiralty Iflands. A. M. moderate and fair. \ P. M. Frefh breezes and clear ; the Great \ Admiralty Iiland S. E. { & 9 league . / A. M. calm. J Light airs and hazy. • A. M. faw 2 iflands ? to the northward, and one to the S. W. June 4 \ car, Month, and Day. •j -a 3 a Longitude m Winds. E 8 E t A fa H ii Sick on hiat Moon s Age. 1791. South. Eaft. Day June ■ 0 4 00 32 MS 20 S. E. 82| 3 4 S 1 2 M5 06 S. W. 83! 2 5 6 00 02 144 27 N. W. 80 1 6 North. 7 00 °4 i44 3° N. N. W. 84 1 7 8 00 33 '44 20 S. E. 84 2 8 9 1 00 143 37 S. E, 85 3 9 1 10 1 43 '43 09 Eaft. 86 \ 4 10 1' 2 142 32 N. N. E. 87 4 11 1 1 12 °3 142 30 North. 86 2 12 . *3 , 2 °5 142 46 S. S. w. Hi 1 '3 U 2 2 " 142 33 Variable. 85 »4 '5 3 °5 141 5° Eaft. 84 2 '5 16 3 23 140 36 Eaft. 84 3 16 17 3 33 '39 44 S. E. 86 5 '7 18 3 44 '39 00 S. s. w. 83 4 18 '9 4 00 138 57 S. S. E. 84 4 '9 20 4 •3 '39 20 South. 85 4 20 21 4 09 '39 3° E. S. E. 86 4 21 22 4 04 139 44 Eaft. 85 3 22 23 4 09 140 10 Calm. «7 4 23 24 3 56 '39 38 Variable. 84 4 24 25 4 16 140 20 Variable. H\ 4 25 26 4 27 140 23 Variable. 84 $ 26 27 4 37 140 °3 South. 82 3 27 28 4 41 140 00 Variable. 82 3 28 29 4 2/ 140 16 Weft. 84 29 3° 4 4< » '39 46 w. s. w. 83 [ July 1 1 5 o( "39 21 VV. s. w. 83 ) 2 2 5 4-1 '39 08 Weft. 82 1 3 3 i1 5 5; '39 09 Weft. 82 4 Weather, &c &:c. A. M. light breezes and Wc meet almoft every ht airs, A. M 1'. M. light breezes and hazy. A.M. thunder and Lightning, with fome fqualls and rain P. M. fqually with rain. A. M. very light airs and cloudy. P. M. calm and cloudy. A. M. fqually witl rain. Light airs and very variable. Light breezes and fqually, with rain. Light breezes and clear. Little wind and clear. Light winds and fair. Light airs and fair. \ P. M. calm and fair } cloudy. Light airs and clear. Light winds and fine. j Moderate and fine. I day with large trees a-drift. j P. M. moderate and fair- A. M I inclinable to calm. (P. M. fqually with fhowers of rain. I light airs and fair. -ight breezes and cloudy. Little wind and fair. P. M. light airs and hazv. A.M. clear. 1 Light airs and fair, with lightning to the fouth-) ward. /cry light airs with frequent calms Calm and light airs alternately. Light winds, rain, and unfettled. Moderate and cloudy. P. M. moderate and cloudy with fome light 1 fhowers. A. M. a heavy fquall of wind and rain. Cloudy and unfettled. A. M. fome fqualls and rain. Variable ; fometimes fair, fometimes rainy. ) Light winds and cloudy. Died William Phil- 2 hp, feaman. j Moderate breezes and cloudy, with frequent ( fhowers. Moderate and cloudy, with hea\ v rain at times, j Cloudy, with frequent (quails and rain; hght-/ ning in the fouth-eaft. Jul) 4 Year, Month, and Day. 1791. July North. •3 5 >3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 '3 14 *5 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 3i Aug. 1 2 3 5 53 5 5 5 5 5 5 6 6 8 8 8 43 40 33 37 27 38 09 3° *3 Longitude in Eaft. '39 39 140 140 140 140 140 140 140 *39 '39 Winds. 34 HO 45 *4o 2139 r o 5' 26 io 47 11 11 12 11 11 11 to i r r r i 2 '3 '3 <3 12 9 °3 37 01 2 c / 39 07 49 46 25 2c Ol OO 49 *37 136 '35 '34 '33 '32 132 132 130 130 130 129 128 128 32 18 06 09 44 08 1 2 55 58 20 35 30 50 ll 4' 40 16 21 20 00 52 ,47 47 25 29 ■o B E § _£ 0 E Z O ti rt -id U CO 37 12 '27 59 N.W.byW S. E. S. E. Southerly. Northerly. W. by S. w. s. w. Weft. Variable. s. w. W. by N, I N. N. E. N. E. E. N. E. N. E. N. N. E. E. N. E. E. by N. N. E. Variable. Weft. Weft. W. N. W, W. S. W. S. VV. s. s. w. 127 1 28 54 10 S. by W. Variable. W. S. W. W. N. W, Weft. 82 85 83 85 84 83 82 81 81 81 84 B4I 84 86 85 83 85 87 86 84 82 82 84 85 85i 841 84 80 82 82 a* Day 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 r3 14 Weather, &c. &c. 15 16 '7 18 '9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 29 3° (P. M. moderate with drizzling rain. A. M. \ clear and pleafant. Light breezes, clear, and pleafant. Moderate and fair. Light breezes and fair. Light airs and fair, with frequent calms. i P. M. calm and clear. A. M. heavy and fre- l quent fhowers of rain. Calm. A. M. hazy and unfettled, with rain. ( P. M. moderate and fair. A. M. fqually with \ much rain, JP. M. light breezes and unfettled. A. M. ( cloudy with rain. j P. M. moderate and cloudy, with rain. A. M ( fqually. Saw two iflands to the northward. I Erefli breezes and fair. Moderate and cloudy, with a few fhowers. j P. M. fqually with heavy rain. A. M. light I breezes and hazy. (P. M. moderate and hazy, with fmall rain. < A. M. faw three iflands bearing W. S. W. ( 8 or 9 leagues. ?P. M. moderate and fair. A. M. light airs I and fine. j P. M. calm and cloudy. A. M. moderan I breezes, clear, and pleafant. Moderate and fair. Moderate and fair. A. M Moderate and cloudy. Light variable winds and cloudy. CP. M. little wind and cloudy. A. M. fqually ( and unfettled, with rain. Frefh gales, with heavy fqi alls and rain. I Freih gales, with frequeni fqualls and rain ; ( much thunder and lightning. Frefh gales and fqually, with rain. A. M. dark and fqually, with a large feu. Strong gales and fqually, with rain. Frefh gales and hazy. U\ M. frefh gales and fqually. A.M. more I moderate. Light winds and cloudy. f P. M. moderate and clear. A. M. thunder, ] lightning,, and very unfettled. Frefh gales and fqually, with fmall rain. Frefh gales and cloudy, with fome i'malls clear and pleafant. Aug. I Month and Day. Latitude in 1791. North. Aug. 0 4 9 3° 5 8 44 6 7 3« 7 6 21 8 5 41 9 5 27 10 5 26 11 1 12 [ 5 27 1.3 •4 4 43 15 3 52 16 3 34 '7 3 15 18 3 11 '9 3 05 20 3 05 21 3 °4 22 3 co 23 2 50 24 2 27 25 1 53 26 1 49 27 1 ?6 28 1 2* 29 1 22 3° 00 55 3' co 21 Sept. 1 00 °7 2 00 00 South. oo 10 Longitude in Eaft. o ' 127 47 127 54 126 53 127 17 126 54. 126 18 125 51 D r Obf. 125 12 125 28 125 18 124 40 123 40 12*5 20 123 12 122 31 122 oo 121 05 120 26 120 32 120 46 120 40 120 43 120 20 M9 44 119 44 119 49 n'9 53- 119 49 119 -34 Winds. S. S. W. S. s. w. Variable. s. w. s. w. S, S. w. Variable. I S. W. to I N. W. w. s. w. Variable. S. E. Variable. S. S. E. S. E. Variable. South. S. S. E. S. E, S. S. E. W. S. W. Variable. S. W. S. E. Variable. S. S. W. S. W. S. V/. S.-S. W. S. W. Variable. e g O 1y 6 z :k on board M P a Day 83 4 6 83 7 83 4 8 80 4 9 82 4 10 82 3 11 82 3 12 83 2 13 83 2 83 3 15 8i 3 16 83 2 17 83 3 18 84 3 '9 85 1 20 85> 1 21 86 2 22 85;. 1 23 85 1 24 85: 1 25 «5i 1 26 85 j 27 3 28 87 3 29 hi 3 3° 82 3 1 81 4 2 83 4 3 83 1 4 83^ 4 5 84 4 6 Weather, &c. &c. Light breezes and unfettled. A. M. faw, the land from W. to W. S. W. diftant 10 leagues. Light breezes and cloudy. Light winds and cloudy, f P. M. frefh breeze*; and hazy. A. M. I fqually and unfettled. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Moderate and hazy, rather unfettled. J Light airs. Standing in for Hummock. 1 Ifland. At noon, anchored in 22 fathoms. At anchor at Hummock Ifland. Frefh breezes and fqually. Ditto. f P. M. moderate breezes and cloudy. a. M \ very light airs. Light and variable winds. Light breezes and clear. Light airs and fair. Light variable airs and fair; very fultry. Light airs and fair; very fmooth water. Light airs and cloudy. Light airs and clear. Light airs, with lightning, to the weftward. Light airs with frequent calms. S Frcfh breezes and clear. N. W. point of I Celebes, S. by E. 9 leagues. j Frefh breezes and cloudy. N. W. poin: I of Celebes, S. s. E. 10 leagues. \ Frequent calms and fultry. N. W\ point I of Celebs, s. 520 E. 9 leagues. ] Clear and fultry, with very light airs at ( times. j Frefh breezes, and hazv; lightning in the \ n.w. l\ M. moderate and cloudy. A. M. frefh breezes, thick, and hazy, with fmall rain. \ Frefh breezes, thick, and hazy. A. M. \ a moderate breeze and huzy. j Moderate and cloudy. " P. M. moderate and cloudy. A. M. light airs and hazy. Moderate and fair 5 lightning in the S. E. bepc. 4 Year, 3 33 S. E. 81 5 24 Fair and pleafant, with light breezes. 22 6 2C 112 c6 E. S. E, 81 5 25 Frefli breezes and clear. (Moderate and fair. The ifland of Careman 23 6 °5 no E. S. E. 82 4 26 < Java bore at day-light W. by N. 4 or 5 ( leagues. (P.M. moderate and clear. A.M. fqually 24 6 05 108 52 Eaft. 83 4 27 < and unfettled ; many large water wouts [ and whirlwinds over the (nip. as 5 5C > 107 39 N. E. 84 1 28 ) P. M. moderate and fair. A. Mw cloudy I with light u inds. 26 5 54 . 107 12 Variable. 86 \ 2<) \ Moderate breezes and fair. A. M. light | airs and fultry, ( 1 1 4 1 Anchored in the Road of Batavia. CHAPTER 179.. September. CHAPTER X. Captain Hunter waits on the Governor at Batavia.—Applies for a p of age to England\—Purchafcs the Waakfimheyd for that purpofe.—heaves' Batavia.—Pafles the Reelings.—Arrives at the Cape of Good Hope.—-Leaves that place, and anchors at Saint Helena.—Departs Jrom Saint Helena.—Arrives at Portfmouth.—Tables for the variation of the compafs.—Captain Hunter s letter to the Lords of the Admiralty. chap. X. ' a * H E mailer of the fhip went immediately on fliore, to inform his owner (the Shebander) of his arrival: that gentleman wrote me a note the fame night, begging to fee me the next morning a3 early as poflible, that he might introduce me to the governor; he informed me at the fame time, that it was quite unnecelTary to write to the governor upon any bufinefs I might have to fettle with him, (which the mafter of the fhip informed him I intended) as my bufinefs could be done with, more eafe in a perfonal interview. I landed the next morning, and went with the Shebander (who fpoke Englifh) to the governor, who lived about three miles out of town. I had previoufly told the She-bander, in writing, what my bufinefs was, which he thought neceflary for enabling him the better to interpret between us. I informed the governor, that Governor Phillip had found ittneceflary, for the forwarding of his Majefty's fervice, to employ the veffel in which I was embarked to convey to that port the officers and company of his Majefty's loft 8 fhip (kip the Sirius, with a view, that after we had procured the neceflary pro- C hap. x. vifion and refreshments, we fhould be permitted to proceed in the lame * ' veffel to England : I therefore defired permiffion to have her refitted, c /9V or ' September. and to proceed with all poffible expedition. The governor, in anfwer to my requeft, informed me, that he could not confent to any veffel belonging to the company being employed as a tranfport, and that it was contrary to the eftabliflied regulations of the company to permit that veflel, as Dutch property, to proceed from thence to Europe. I defired that he would take the trouble to confider the nature of my application ; and I begged he might underftand, that I was not foliciting a favour to myfelf, as an individual, but that I was an officer in the king's fervice, and that although I was not at that port in the command of one of his Majefty's fhips, that I neverthelefs was in actual fervice, and had at that time a fhip's company, and their proper officers, under my command; that he would be pleafed, therefore, to underftand me correctly, that it was for his Majefty's fervice I was then making the application he had heard , and I hoped, and believed, that himfelf and the council would find no difficulty or inconvenience to the company's concerns, in deviating a little from their eftabliflied rules for the accommodation of his Britannick Majefty's fervice. To this he only replied, he could do nothing of himfelf, and that my application muft be made to the council; to which, I informed him, I had no fort of objection. The Shebander, therefore, wrote an application from me in the Dutch language, founded on the letter which I had written to him on that fubject j to which he added one paragraph that, he faid, would very much facilitate the bufinefs, and prevent delay 5 this was, after having defired permillion to let the veflel proceed to Europe, " That if it were "impolTiblc, confident with the eftabliihcd rules of the company, to N 2 " grant CHAP. X." grant fuch a requeft, that they would be pleafed to give pcrmiflion " for my purchafing the veflel, if I could fettle the bufinefs with the OAober. *' proprietor. 1 waited on the governor and council in perfon, and received my anfwer from the governor, which was, that the council had complied with my requeft, and would permit me to purchafe the veffel; a bufinefs which the proprietor and I had previoufly fettled. I cannot help noticing here, that this veffel was fometimes confidered as belonging to the company, and at other times as the fole property of a private individual; probably, thofe gentlemen who hold confiderable appointments under the company, and are at the fame time employed in an extenfive commerce on their own account, may be authorifed to ufe the name of the company, whenever it may be neceffary to promote their own private intereft. This gentleman, whofe name was Engclhareh acted with much liberality in the equipment of his fhip, although thofe whom he employed on that bufinefs did not act: with the fame good intention : he was, upon every occafion, civil and attentive. A fliort time before we arrived here, the town of Batavia had been very unhealthy, and was, though much better, ftill fickly. Our failors continued to enjoy good health until about a week before we were ready for fea, when they fell down faft with a fever which had raged much at Batavia : this fever was, however, in fome of the feamen, brought on by a »9*. . little intemperance. On the 1 c;th of October died Daniel Buddie, featn.in. zoth. On the 20th, we left the road and failed to the iiland of Onruft, where we anchored and received fome ftores for the ufe of the fhip. On the -2dand26th. 22d, wc failed from Onruft, and the 26th cleared the ftreight of Sunda : at this time Terence Burne, feaman, died, and we had twenty-two down with the Batavia fever; it was of the intermitting kind, and exceedingly obftinate and difficult to remove j it reduced the patient to a 6 very verv weakly ftate in a very fhort time, and occafioned much ficknefs at chap. x, the llomach, and a loathing of every kind of food. 1791. On the 30th, as we were fleering fouth-weft, we kept a good look- Oftobcr 30, out all night for the iflands called Reelings, or Cocos Iflands j being uncertain whether their fituation was well afcertained : at noon on the 31ft, the latitude obferved was 120 10' fouth ; this I fuppofed to be ra- SIff, ther to the fouthward of them, and altered the courfe to weft-fouth-weft : at three in the afternoon, we difcovered the iflands under our lee, diftant about four leagues: there arc three of them well covered with wood, but they are very low and flat; there are feveral fmaller fpots like rocks above water; the larger iflands have fandy beaches, and in many places there were very high breakers : the latitude of the fouth fide ■ is i2° 06' fouth; the longitude by account from Java Head, but afterwards confirmed by obfervations of O and J> is 98° 03' eaft. On the 14th of November, Robert Henderfon, feaman, died; and Not.r*. on the 1 1 th of December died Edward Moore, feaman. On the 15th we ike n, rrv made Cape Lagullus, and the 17th anchored in Table-Bay, at the Cape of i-th, Good Hope ; but it blew fo ftrong from the fouth-eaft that we were not able to fetch the upper anchorage : it continued to blow from the fimc quarter for feveral days, and on the 20th, it blew fo violent a gale, that the two bower anchors would not hold the fhip : finding in the evening that the gale did not in the fmalleft degree abate, and that if I continued to truft any longer to anchors, which it was plain were too light for the fhip, we fhould run a rifk of being drove upon the reef off Robbin's Ifland in the night, for every heavy guft fet the fhip a-drift, We cut both the cables before dark, and had juft day-light enough *o rim to fea under the forefail. When we got a few leagues to fea. chap. x. fea we found the weather quite moderate, and made fail, with the hope of being able to recover the bay again. On the 22d, in the evening, we fetched clofe round Green Point, and hoifted the fignal of diftrefs, . having but one fmall anchor left: his Majefty's ihip Providence, the Aftiftant armed tender, and Pitt tranfport, being in the bay, repeated our fignal with many guns, and fent all their boats; feveral Englifh whalers and fome Americans alfo fent their boats with anchors and haufers, and we were very foon got into fafety. I was much obliged to Captain Bligh, as well as to the commanders ■of all the other (hips for their exertions, without which we muft again have been driven to fea. The fame night we received anchors and cables from the fhore, and fecured the (hip. The anchors which we had left being far down the bay when we quitted them, were entirely 33j. loft. On the 23d, the Providence and Aftiftant tenders left the bay, and on the 24th the Pitt tranfport failed for New South Wales, As our fick, from the very low ftate they were in when we arrived, were likely to detain me longer here than it was my wifh or intention to have ftaid, I determined to avail myfelf of that time, and convert a fpare top-maft into a mizen-mafl; the fhip being in certain fituationS, very unfafe for want of after-fail; and the head of the main maft being-much crippled by the weight of the try-fail, I fet the carpenters immediately to work upon this job, which was foon completed; but on examining the head of the fore-maft, I found it was alfo very defective, l3. which determined me to reef both the top-mafts. On the 13th ot January, 1792, having completed our provifions for fixteen weeks, I directed that fuch of the men as were furHciently recovered to proceed upon the voyage, might be difcharged from fick quarters and fent on board. board. On the i8th, with a breeze from fouth-fouth-eaft, we ran chap. x. down to Robbin's Iiland, where, it falling calm, we anchored. On the'*"" v ' ° 1792. 19th, with a fouth-weft breeze, wc flretched out to fea. We left five ■'an^^t{l,8* men at fick quarters who were too weakly to be taken on board. On the 4th of February, at five in the afternoon, we faw the ifland February 4, of Saint Helena, and at noon we anchored off James's Valley in fourteen and a half fathoms, and moored fhip : I fent an officer on fhore to wait on the governor, who wrote me a very polite note, exprefling his concern for the misfortune I had met with, and offering every refrefh-ment the iiland could afford to my feamen. On the 5th, I landed, and 5th. was received by the governor under the ufual falute given to captains of his Majefty's fhips (eleven guns). On the 13th, we left the ifland, 13th. having received frefh beef for our fhip's company during our ftay there, and having completed our water. I fliould very ill deferve the civilities I received here, if I were not to take this opportunity of exprefling my obligations to Lieutenant Colonel Brooke, the governor of this ifland, and to every individual of his family, for their great politenefs and very friendly attention to myfelf and officers whilft we remained at this ifland. On the 2 ad of April we arrived at Portfmouth. April 2* An An ACCOUNT of Obfervations for finding the Variation of the Compafs, made on board the Waaksamheid Tranfport, on a Voyage from New South Wales to England, by the Northern Route. Latitude Longitude V i nation by in South. in Eaft. Azimuth. Amplitude 0 0 0 28 E. • 33 °7 159 09 9 10 13 E. 22 55 167 *5 11 3° 21 56 <63 16 9 44 io 52 163 3° 9 15 9 42 163 00 9 35 7 26 162 09 8 10 6 07 i59 55 8 01 5 34 158 58 8 10 5 20 157 3° 8 *4 4 56 156 00 6 43 i 15 i45 5« 4 3° oo 12 i45 04 4 24 oo 02 ■ 144 5° 4 56 North. oo °3 144 29 4 5° oo 25 144 00 4 42 I .35 H3 00 4 16 i 46 143 02 4 1 2 2 01 142 3? 3 20 3 3° 2 54 141 56 2 29 2 24 3 10 141 20 2 37 2 18 140 45 2 22 3 4i 138 55 2 14 4 06 139 48 3 28 4 05 r39 44 4 '7 4 oK 140 10 4 °3 4 20 140 14 4 00 io 44 136 3° 2 iS io 59 i35 56 1 50 7 50 126 50 1 1 <; 3 06 118 00 0 42 South. 4 10 117 37 0 26 \V 6 06 ic8 36 2 59 20 03 Sr 20 06 3 5° • 20 5.0 26 7* 07 4 W. 21 75 54 7 35 22 49 70 30 ' 10 00 S 3° Latitude in South. 23 30 28 38 34 36 35 06 35 °6 35 07 35 15 35 33 3> 54 [nTaMe 21 3l 20 ib 25 23 22 44 21 36 20 26 I7 14 19 34 16 12 In St. 15 iS l3 49 7 5i 6 06 4 19 North. Longitude in Kail, (o 11 26 00 28 06 27 48 68 55 50 11 34 3° 32 21 3° 59 30 21 29 16 25 19 23 30 Uay, Cape ui Good Hope 8 58 Variation by Azimuth. Amplitude. .5 58 16 OQ IS 02 23 iS Vv. Weft. 1 20 2 26 4 05 1 lelena Road 5 51 8 04 15 01 17 01 18 55 *6 43 10 52 14 07 35 12 38 14 15 24 07 48 32 23 23 24 25 26 32 36 37 37 44 01 12 16 08 39 53 50 21 3i 58 25 26 28 28 27 28 27 26 23 22 22 21 *9 l9 16 16 15 f5 15 T3 12 11 11 I o IO 10 10 8 7 6 6 6 7 The The Lords of the Admiralty, from a zealous wifh to promote the CH 1T?. lication of the following letter from Captain Hunter ; which gives his opinion on the belt courfe from New South Wales to Europe ; and which clofes the mftru&ive communications of that able navigator. To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty: My Lords, A S the fettlement, which is now eftabliflied on the coaft of New South Wales, will no doubt occafion a frequent intercourfe between the Mother Country and that part of the world, I conceive it to be a duty in thofe, who, from their own experience and obfervation, may be qualified to give any information in their power, relative to the navigation to and from that diftant country: it is with this hope, that I prefume to trouble your lordfhips with an opinion, which, I can with truth fay, has been founded on my own experience and obfervation. The paffage from England to the Cape of Good Hope is already fo well known that it would be fuperfluous in me to make any obfervations upon it. From the Cape to our fettlement at Port Jackfon, the navigation is now much better known, than it was when the firft convoy to that country was left in my charge; it is a plain and eafy track; any perfon who is acquainted with the common rules of navigation, and finding the variations of the compafs, may, with the neceffary look-out, run acrofs that extenfive ocean without danger: I have failed over it nautical interefls of Great-Britain, were pleaft "ed to permit the pub- O o twice, 282 A VOYAGE F R 0 M CHAP, twice, and it has been croiTed by many other fhips fince. The advan-^ i t- j tage of being able to afcertain the fhip's place in longitude, by obfervations of the moon, will ever be fatisfxetory, but more particularly through fo vaft a tract of fea, in which the error of the log may confiderably accumulate, when fhips arrive upon that coaft where the land lies fo-nearly in a north and fouth direction, there can be no difficulty in discovering what part of the coaft they are upon, their latitude obferved will always point that out, by applying to the general chart, given from the authority of that moft correct and able navigator Captain. Cook. When they arrive off Botany-B;iy, Port Jackfon, or Broken-Bay, they will I hope receive fome afliftance into any of thefe harbours, from the furveys done by me, copies of which I delivered to the governor, as the different harbours were completed, in order that fair copies might, as? early as he fliould judge proper, be transmitted home : but that nothing in my power may be wanting to aflift thofe who may be ftrangers on their arrival off* that part of the coaft, feparate copies of thofe ports, with directions more full than were given with the firft, will be delivered at your lordfliip's board, with this, and alfo a copy of the three harbours, on one flieet, connected with the intermediate coalt. It is the return from that country immediately for Europe, by the fafeft, moft certain, and expeditious route, that fliould be the object of our particular attention. The paffage from Van Diemen's Land weftward, to the Cape of Good Hope, has never yet been attempted; we can therefore fay but little upon it; fome, however, are of opinion, that a paffage may be made that way with as much eafe and expedition as by any other route. I confefs that I differ from thefe opinions: I admit that the paflage may be made ; but I think, whenever it is tried, that it will be found tedious, and fatiguing to the fhip's company. The fhip which which piuTues that route fliould be ftrong and well found, and her crew healthy and capable of bearing much blowing, and fome cold weather, v It is not from a fingle voyage that we are to judge of the eligibility of this paffage , it will happen in fome feafons that the wind may be more favourable for making that pafYage than in others, but it is on the general prevalence of wefterly winds here, and the heavy fea which is conftantly rolling from the weftward, that I conceive this route may be tedious and fatiguing, and on which account I give the preference to the fouthern route by Cape Horn. This pailage has been frequently tried, and never yet failed of being fafe and expeditious, the other never having yet been tried, leaves in my mind fome doubt of its certainty and expedition, and a ftrong fufpicion, that whenever it is, it may be found twice out of three times, attended with the difficulties I have hinted at; •but if from repeated experience it fliould be found to be as practicable, expeditious, and certain, as fome imagine, it will no doubt be preferable to all the others, as being a fhorter diftance. This paffage will of courfe be attempted only in the Summer months : for admitting a fhip to have gained fo much to the weftward, as to enable her to clear the well coaft of New Holland, and to ftretch to the northward, until the falls into the fouth-eaft trade wind, fhe will carry this trade in the Summer time probably quite home to the Cape , but in the Winter, north-weft winds prevail in the neighbourhood of that coaft, which would exceedingly retard her arrival there. The paiTage fouthward by Cape Horn, I have failed, and as a proof of the prevalence of wefterly winds in thofe high latitudes, I made my voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, in ninety-one days, from Port Jackfon, although I was fo unlucky as to be detained beating off* Cape O o a Horo Horn for fcventeen days, with a north-eaft wind; which I believe is not very common there. This is rather a long voyage to be performed in that time, and yet I think it will be done twice in three times in lefs, although a diftance of about 3300 leagues. The northern panagc, which can only be attempted during the Winter feafon, in the fouthern hemifphere, on account of the periodical trade winds in the Indian feas, and undertaken in fuch time as to enfure their reaching Batavia, before the fetting in of the wefterly winds there, which is generally in the middle or end of October. The dangers, currents, calms, and other delays to which we are liable in thefe little known feas, and of which we had much experience in the Waakfamheid tranfport, is the fubjecl: of the preceding narrative, which was written particularly for the information of your lordfhips, and principally with a view of fhewing the very great uncertainty of an expeditious voyage to Europe by that paffage. I iailed from Port Jackfon in March, and I can take upon me, without, I hope, being fuppofed to have prefumed too much on my own judgment and experience to after t, that a fhip leaving that port in the end of September, or beginning of October, taking her route by Cape Horn, would have reached England as foon as I have. The time I flopped at fuch places as I was obliged to touch at, will appear in the narrative. If ever government fliould find it neceflary to' fend fhips to that country, which may be intended to return immediately from thence to England, I beg leave to fuggeft to your lordfhips, that the particular feafons in the fouthern hemifphere fhould be confidered, in order to prevent thofe delays in the return of the fhips which muft inevitably attend their failing at an unfavourable time. If If fuch fhips leave England in February, or earlier, if found more chap. convenient, they fliould rcfrefh at Rio de Janeiro in preference to the *—-^—^ Cape of Good Hope ; as by the time they could arrive at the Cape the north-welt winds will be fetting in there, which will oblige them to go into the Falfe bay ; this will confiderably encreafe their expences, and" probably occafion fome delay : fail immediately from Rio Janeiro for the coaft of New South Wales, where, if they are not uncommonly unfortunate, they will arrive early in September; this is giving them pood time. They will then have time to clear, ballafr, and to rcfrefh their people for fix weeks or two months, and return by Cape Horn; or, if the weftern paffage be found preferable, the feafon will be equally favourable for it. If they fliould take their route by Cape Horn, as they will no doubt require to refreih fomewhere in their voyage home, they may either ftop at Santa Catherina or Rio Janeiro, on the Brazil coaft, or go to the Cape ; in this cafe I would recommend the Cape, as more convenient, in more refpedts than one. If they are fickly, there they may get a fupply of men, which it is well known they cannot at either of the other places;. and in failing from the Cape homeward they will have the advantage of being to windward; however, if as late as April, they would probably prefer Brazil. If water only were wanted, that could be had at Falkland's Iflands. In taking the liberty to offer thefe hints, I mean only, that in order to prevent any lofs of time, upon fuch a fervice, the fhips may be dif-patched from England in fuch time as to infure their having the Summer months to return either by Cape'Horn, or the weftern route, as may be directed. The The iliips upon this fervice will no doubt be under the inconvenience of coining upon the coaft of New South Wales in fome of the Winter months j we have fome bad weather en that coaft in the Winter, and ibme fmart gales of windj the eafterly gales always bring thick or hazy weather : I would recommend the not making too free with the coaft, until they be near the parallel of their port. In fteering in for Port Jackfon, if they fliould fall to leeward, either with a northerly or Southerly wind, they can avail themfelves of either Botany-Bay or Broken-Bay, Port Jackfon being the center harbour. In the fketches which will accompany the narrative of my laft paftage, I beg leave to inform your lordfhips, that the bearings and relative fituations of the different lands which we fell in with were determined by interferons taken from the fhip by Lieutenants William Bradley and Henry Waterhoufe, who paid particular and conftant attention to thofe very neceffary obfervations; and that the fituations of the lands in general were determined by obfervations for the longitude as well as latitude, which were made by myfelf and the above officers. I have now only to requeft that your lordfhips will do me the honour to believe, that in the liberty I have taken, I am prompted wholly by a fenfe of duty, and that I am, with the utmoft refpeel, My Lords, June, 1792U Your Lordfhip's moft obedient and devoted humble fervant, JOHN HUNT E R. LIEUTE- LIEUTENANT KING's JOURNAL. THE public owe an obligation, and the publisher a klndnefs, to Sir Jofeph Banks and Mr. Stephens, of the Admiralty, to whofe charge Lieutenant King had committed his journal, for liberally allowing the free ufe of this intelligent manufcript, in order to the publication of fuch parts of it as might be fupplemcntary in its notices to the foregoing narrative of Captain Hunter. The journal of Lieutenant King, like the narrative of Captairr Hunter, begins with the plan of a fettlement on the coaft of New South Wales, for the prefent baniihment of convicts, in the hope of future benefit to the nation ; and with the outfit of the fhips which had been appointed for this uncommon expedition. Like Captain Hunter, under whom he failed in the Sirius, he conducts their little fleet from England to the Canaries; from thefe iflands to the Brazils; from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope j recording fuch profeftional notices, and making fuch ufeful remarks, as occurred on a voyage, which being now perfectly known, could afford in the recital little diverfity, and could furnifh in the publication neither information nor amufement. Of the Sirius, which Was never more to return to fhr Thames, he tells the following anecdote : '* She was built in the river *' for an eaft country fhip; and in loading her, fhe took fire and was u burnt down to her wales. The government Wanting a roomy vefTeJ u to carry ftores abroad, in 17o i, purchafed her bottom, which war-" rebuilt with fuch fluff as, during the war, could be found. . She ** went two voyages as the Berwick ftore-fhip ; and without any re-** pairs fhe was reported, when the prefent expedition was thought of, 6 " W CHAP, X. e—,--3 •CHAP. ** as fit for the voyage to New Holland, when (lie was named The %.r' " Sirius.'" Experience, however, evinced, that fhe was altogether adequate to the fervice for which fire was deflined ; and carried her crew iafe through one of the moft tremendous gales, on a lee fhore, that the oldeft feaman remembered. Lieutenant King defcribes the Cape of Good Hope, of which fo many accounts have .been given. Here was it determined, that with Governor Phillip and other officers, he was to change his fhip from the Sirius to the Supply, an armed tender of one hundred and feventy tons : but this meafure was not executed till the fleet had failed 352 miles from the Cape of Good Hope, when they yet had 5582 miles of an • ocean to traverfe, before they could expecl: to fee the fouth cape of New Holland, the-object of their hopes. Soon after they had parted from their affociates in the voyage, they were alarmed in the night with the cry of rocks under the lee bow: but having put the helm a-lee, they foon perceived, that the Supply had palfed over two enormous whales, which gave her a fhock that was felt by all. Without .any other accident, though they had heavy gales and a boifterous fea, they anchored at Botany-Bay on the 19th of January, 1788, after a voyage of thirty-•feven weeks and a day, fince their departure from England. On the fifth day after their arrival, two ftrange fhips were feen Handing into the bay, which proved to be the La Bouflble and L'Aftrolabe under the command of Monfieur De la Peyroufe, and which have been long wifli-fully looked for by all the good and wife of Europe. C HAPTER CHAPTER XI. Lieutenant King vifits Monfieur De la Peyroufe at Botany-Bay.— Folk reception there.—An account of his adventures.—Lieutenant King returns to Fort Jackfon.—Sent by Governor Phillip to form a fettle-ment on Norfolk If and.—Leaves Port Jackfon.—An if and difcovered. —Arrival at Norfolk Ifland.—Difficulty in finding a landing-place.— Lands the co?rvicJst provifions y andflores.—Ground cleared\ and tents fixed. —A fiore-houfe ercBed.—Vegetables, and various forts of grain Jbwn.— Diftrefied by rats.—General orders for the regulation of the fettlement. o N the lit of February, at day-light in the morning, Lieutenant chap. Dawes, of the marines, and myfelf, left Sydney Cove in a cutter, «—v--' in order to proceed to Botany-Bay, and vifit Monfieur De la Peyroufe I/8S* February x, on the part of Governor Phillip, and to oifer him any afliftance he might Hand in need of. We foon got down to the harbour's mouth, and finding a light breeze from the fouthward, we were obliged to row all the way: we arrived on board the Bouftble at ten o'clock in the morning, and were received with the greateft attention and politenefs by Monfieur Peyroufe, and the few officers he had. After delivering my meffage to him, he returned his thanks to Governor Phillip, and made us fimilar offers to thofe he had received, adding at the fame time, that he fhould be in France within the fpace of fifteen months, and as he had ftores, &c. fufficient to ferve him for three years, he fliould be happy to fend Governor Phillip any thing that he might want. Monfieur Peyroufe informed me, that a number of the convicts had been to him, and wanted to enter on board his fhips, but that he had difmiffed them with threats, and had given them a day's provifions to carry them back to the fettlement. P p The 29° AVOYAGETO chap. The wind coming on to blow frefli from the northward, I accepted 1-/——Monfieur Peyroufe's invitation to pafs the day with him, and to return I788, to Port Jackfon the next morning. February. In the courfe of our conversion, I learned that he had touched at, and been off", the following places, viz. Madeira, Teneriffe, and Santa Catberina : he had run down the coafts of Chili and California, on the laft of which he had loft boats, officers, and men, by the furf. He had been at Kamfchatka, where he replaced the wooden infeription that had been erected to the memory of Captain Clerke, (which was nearly defaced) with a copper one : for this attention I thanked him. From Kamfchatka, he went to Macao ; from thence to the Phillippines, the Sandwich Iflands, Ides des Navigateurs, Friendly Iflands, and Norfolk Iiland, from whence he came to Botany-Bay. At the Ifland Macuna, (one of the Ifles des Navigateurs) in latitude 14° 19' fouth, longitude 1730 oo' 20" eaft of Paris, he had been fo very unfortunate as to lofe Monfieur De Langle, captain of the L'Aftrolabe, together with eight officers, four failors, and one boy; all of whom were killed by the natives, befides a number who were wounded. This melancholy affair happened in the following manner : The two fhips had been at the ifland juft mentioned fome days, and were on very good terms with the natives, who had furniilied them with every article of ftock in the greateft profufion, for barter : Monfieur De la Peyroufe, however, had found it very neceflary to be on his guard againft a treacherous difpofition which he difcovered in them. When every thing was ready for their departure, and the fhips were under weigh, De Langle requefted M. Peyroufe to permit him to get another turn of water; this M. Peyroufe contented to, but with as much reluctance as De Langle feemed folicit-ous to obtain his requeft: as the long-boats were not hoifted in, they were fent on this fervice, with two other boats to attend them, under the the direction of the unfortunate De Langle. At this time the fhips were lying to, and a ftrong current fet them round a point out of fight of the place where the boats were to land. When the boats landed, the men 1788. were, as ufual, furrounded by the inhabitants, who did not immediately cbruar/* difcover any hoftile intention : unfortunately, the failors in the longboats had fuffered them to take the ground, and whilft they were endeavouring to get them afloat again, the natives were very troublefome, and preffed clofe in upon the failors ; on this, De Langle ordered the men in the rowing-boats to be ready to fire on the natives, but not to do it until he ordered them. Some altercation happening at this juncture, in confequence of their prefling fo clofe upon the French, probably occafioned a blow with a club from one of the natives, which was inftantly taken as a fignal by the reft, and the maflacre began. The natives were armed with fliort heavy clubs, by which means they rendered the fire-arms ufelefs. Orders were given to fire the fwivels, &c. in the rowing boats, but it was too late, although the natives fled the moment they were fired, dragging the dead bodies after them. It was fuppofed that thirty of the natives were killed in this unfortunate affray. Thofe belonging to the fhips, who efcaped the maflacre, fwam to the rowing boats, and were carried on board the fhips : many of them had received violent contufions on the head, as all the blows were aimed at that part. De la Peyroufe thought proper to quit the ifland immediately, after endeavouring to regain his long-boats, which he found the natives had deftroyed: he defcribes the inhabitants of thefe iflands as a veiy ftrong and handfome race of men; fcarcely one was to be feen amongft them lefs than fix feet high, and well proportioned; the women are delicately beautiful; their canoes, houfes, &c. are well con-ftructed, and they are much more advanced in internal policy and order than any of the iflands in the Pacific Ocean. Thefe iflands are fur-rounded by a coral reef, but boats may land with great fafety. P p 2 After After dinner I attended M. Peyroufe and his officers on fhore, where I found him quite eftabliflied 5 he had thrown round his tents a ftockade, which was guarded by two fmall guns, and in which they were fetting up two long boats, which he had in frame. After thefe boats were built, it was the intention of M. Peyroufe to go round New Ireland, and through the Moluccas, and to pafs to the Ifland of France, by the freights of Sunda. An obfervatory tent was alfo fixed on more, in which were an aftronomical clock, a quadrant, and other inftruments under the care of Monfieur D'Agelet, Aftronomer, and a member of the Academy of Sciences at Paris : he, as well as Monfieur De la Peyroufe, informed me, that at every place they had touched at, and been near, they had found all the nautical and aftronomical remarks of Captain Cook to be very exact and true j and he concluded with faying, " Enfin Monfieur Cook a tant fait, qu'il ne m'a rien laifse a faire, que " d'admirer fes ceuvres." In the evening I returned on board the Bouffole, and was fhewn all the drawings they had made during their voyage; and at five o'clock the next morning I fet out on my return to Port Jackfon, but did not arrive on board the Sirius before feven in the evening, having been obliged to -row all the way againft the wind and a great fwelL On the 4th, I went by land to Botany-Bay, accompanied by Lieutenant Ball, and fome other Officers: we found the country between that place and .Port Jackfon to confift chiefly of deep bays and fand hills, inter-fperfed with a vaft number of rocks: we did not return until the evening df the jth- About- About this time two criminal courts were afTembled in order to try offenders, and as the proceedings in thefe cafes are, in a great meafure, new, a fliort account of them may not be unacceptable. 1788. February, CHAP, XI. The judge-advocate iffu.es his precept for the three fenior naval officers and three military officers to alTemble at the time appointed, dreffed in their uniforms and their fide-arms: when they are met, the judge-advocate adminifters an oath to the members, fimilar to that which is ufed at military courts-martial afterwards, one of the members adminifters the fame oath to the judge-advocate, who prefides at the court, and the reft take their feats according to their rank. The pri-foner is then afked, whether he • is guilty or not, and, as the general anfwer is, '* not guilty," the accufations againft him are read, and wit-neffes are examined on oath to fupport or prove the charge j after which-the prifoner enters on his defence, and brings evidence to prove his innocence: the court is then cleared, and the members coniider what fentence to pronounce ; if it be death, five out of the feven muft concur in opinion. The governor can refpite a criminal condemned to die, and. the legiflature has fully empowered him to execute the fentence „of the law, or to temper it with mercy. Actions for debt, for a certain amount, are cognizable by this court, as are all other actions at common law, where they are decided according to the law of England, as nearly -as the fituation will allow,. On the 6th, Governor Phillip fignined his intention of fending me to Norfolk-Ifland, with a few people, and ftock to fettle it, and Jieu-r tenant Ball was ordered to receive on board the Supply the ftores and provifions neceflary for that purpofe : this bufinefs engaged the whole .of. my attention until the 15th, when, having received my commiiflon and ; inftructions from the governor, (and taken the oaths of fidelity and allegiance, -chap, allegiance, &c, &cc. and the cuftomary oath as a juftice of the peace for Norfolk-1 flaad -,) by which I was appointed fuperintendent and com-17S8. mandant of Norfolk-Ifland, I embarked the following perfons, who .February, were appointed to go along with me, viz. Mr. James Cunningham, mailer's mate of the Sirius i Mr. Thomas Jamefon, furgeon's firft mate of the Sirius j Mr. John Altree, affiilant to the furgeon; Roger Morly, weaver; William Weftbrook, and —— Sawyer, feamen j Charles Heritage, and John Batchelor, marines j with nine male and fix female con-•victs; in all, twenty-three perfons. »j. We failed from Sydney-Cove at feven o'clock in the morning, with a fine breeze at weft-fouth-weft, and at eight, we got out of the harbour, when we found it blew very frefh, and as we got off the land it came on to blow a perfect hurricane, with a moft; tremendous fea running, which often broke into the veflel: the gale kept up with great violence, as did the fea during the whole day, and I often thought the veflel in a critical fituation-. it. At two o'clock in the morning, the wind veered round to fouth-by-weft, and moderated, but a heavy fea was ftill running. At noon, the latitude was 32" 22' fouth, 1540 11' eaft longitude. In the evening, a flying-fifth flew on board, which is rather an extraordinary event in this 18. latitude. At day-break in the morning of the 18th, land was difcovered bearing eaft-fouth-eaft j and, from its appearance, we judged it to be two fmall rocks or iflands, not more than fix leagues diftant. At the time we firft faw the land, we were ftanding to the northward, with the wind at eaft-fouth-eaft : at eight in the morning, we tacked towards the land, but the wind being light during the whole day, our progrefs tg, was very flow. Early the next morning, having neared the land confiderably, we perceived a pointed rock right a-head, at fome diftance from from the ifland; on which, we hove to, and foundings were tried for chap. xj " with 120 fathoms of line, but we got no bottom. At day-light we w— made fail, and perceived that the two iflands or hills we had feen the i78s. day before, were two very high rocky mountains, on the fouth fide of February, an ifland, extending from north 37° eaft, to north 550 eaft. This fide of the ifland formed a deep bay, in which there appeared to be good fhelter from the north-eaft. At noon, we had a very good meridian altitude, by which the latitude was 310 40' fouth, and the center of the ifland bore north 40" weft, diftant about fix miles ; confequently, its latitude is 310 35' fouth, and the longitude 159° eaft of Greenwich. The form of the ifland is a crefcent, and it is very fmall in proportion to the two ftupendous rocky mountains which rife at its fouthern extremity. One of the rocks rifes perpendicularly from the fea, and has the appearance of a regular pyramid, when feen from the weftward: We failed from it in a direct courfe 22 leagues, and could then fee it very plainly. Lieutenant Ball, who was certainly the difcoverer of this ifland, has named its points and rocks, as they are marked in the chart *. At noon on the 20th, we loft fight of Ball's pyramid in the haze, after *o. having run 22 leagues from it in the direction of eaft by fouth : I think, in clear weather, it may be feen at the diftance of thirty leagues. We had light winds and pleafmt weather until the 24th, when we had very 24. ftrong gales from eaft-fouth-eaft, with a high crofs fea. Early in the morning of the 28th, the wind veered to fouth-weft, and, imagining. 28, ourfelves to be about fifteen leagues to the weftward of Norfolk-Ifland,, we hove to at feven in the evening. The next morning, at day-light, 3-9,. We made fail, fleering eaft: we had great numbers of birds round us, and the clouds hanging very thick to the eaftward, indicated our being uear the land j but it was not till eleven o'clock in the forenoon that we. * For this Chart, and a View of Ball's Pyramid,, with a full Defcription, fee Phillip'* VoPSe>. 4t0. Edition. made . 3HAP, made the largeft of the two fmall iflands which lie oft" the fouth-wed xi. • v—end of Norfolk-Ifland, bearing eaft 16° north, five leagues diftant. At *78S- noon, the body of Norfolk-Ifland bore north 6i° eafl:, diftant feven or eight leagues. At four in the afternoon, we rounded the northern point of the ifland, which I named Point Howe, in honour of the firft lord of the admiralty, at the time we left England: we foon after hove to, oft" a cafcade, which is fituated near the middle of the north fide of the ifland : the boat was hoifted out, and lieutenant Ball and myfelf went to examine if it were poflible to land on a ftony beach, which is fituated a little to the eaftward of the cafcade; but we found fo great a furf rolling on the fliore, that the lofs of the boat, and perhaps of the failors lives, would have been the confequence of our attempting to land j fo that at fun-fet we returned pn board, and the boat was hoifted March i, in. Early the next morning, lieutenant Ball and myfelf went in a boat to examine whether we could find a landing-place from the fouthermoft, or Point Rofs, to the north-weft, or Point HowTe, which was (the wind being then weft-north-weft,) the lee fide of the ifland. From the cafcade to a fmall bay, which lies on the north-eaft fide of the ifland, we found the fliore lined with fteep inacceflible cliffs, againft which the fea broke with great violence, and rendered the boat's approach impracticable. The fmall bay, which I named Ball-bay, (after lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball) lies in a weft-north-weft, and eaft-fouth-eaft direction, and *is about four cables length deep, and two cables length wide : the bottom of the bay is a ftony beach, on which the furf broke with too much force to rifque the boat; though at times, the furf probably may be lefs. From this bay, wc rowed round the fouth-eaft point, and opened the two iflands, the largeft of which, I named Phillip-Ifle, after Governor Phillip; and the fmalleft, Nepean-Ifle, after Evan Nepean. The point of Norfolk-Ifland, oppofite Nepean-Ifle, I called Point Hunter, after captain John Hunte^ of his 3 Majefty's Majefty's fhip the Sirius. Between Point Hunter and Point Rofs, there chap. " j xi. U a large, though not a deep, bay, with feveral fine fandy beaches; butV- .-j without the beaches, there runs a reef parallel with the fliore, which x7! feemed to prevent any landing on it; and, as we were opening the Weather fide of the ifland, and a great fwell running, which prevented us from pulling the boat a-head, we returned along fliore, and endeavoured to land on a ftony beach to the weftward of the cafcade, but could not: we then rowed to the north-eaft point of the ifland, off which lies a clufter of high rocks ; I called them Cook's rocks, in memory of the late Captain James Cook, who difcovered this ifland, and landed near thefe rocks in 1774 : but we found landing impoflible, on account of the furf, which broke every where, though this may not be the cafe m fine weather. In the evening we returned on board, without being able to fe t our feet on fliore. During the night, we had light winds from the fouth-weft j and a current, or tide, had fet us a confiderable diftance to the north-eaft of the ifland; which, at eight o'clock the next morning, bore fouth-eaft, eight miles diftant : from this time, until three in the afternoon, we Were employed in working up under the north-eaft point of the ifland, where we anchored in nineteen fathoms, diftant from the neareft fhore °ne mile. A boat was hoifted out, and after two attempts, I landed With Lieutenant Ball, on the fide of a large rock, which lies clofe to the fliore, at the weft end of a fmall ftony beach : it muft have been °n tfJis rock that Captain Cook landed, as there is no other place at t]ns ftde of the ifland, where it is poflible to attempt a landing at any ****** and that is only practicable here, from half ebb to half flood, in ttejy fine weather, and the wind off the ifland. As it was near the cyenin& when we landed, we very foon returned on board again, with a Q^q quantity 2. CHAP, quantity of forrel that we had gathered. We found this a very improper XI. i^^^j place to land either people or ftores, it being impracticable to get thenv 1788. further than the beach, and there was no frefli water near it. March. > At day-light in the morning of the 3d, I left the Supply, and Went in her boat along with Mr. Cunningham, to examine the fouth-weft fide of the iiland, which we rowed round, until we opened Phillip and Nepean Ifles off" the fouth point; but it blew too hard, and there was-too great a fea running for us to pull the boat any farther, fo that at two in the afternoon we returned on board. There is only one place-on this fide of the iiland, where landing is at all practicable, and that is in a fmall bay juft within the weft point: the bottom of it is a fine-fandy beach, but the furf broke on it with fuch violence, as to put landing out of the qucftion* 4, As it blew very frelh all night, I landed the next morning abreaft of the Supply, with the midftiipman and furgeon : we walked acrofs the ifland to the bay which I had feen the day before. After afcending a. very fteep hill, we got to the top of the ifland, which we found to be a plain, but every foot of ground was covered with trees, or the large roots of trees which rofe above the furface of the earth ; thefe were not the only impediments to our march, as it was impoffible for us to walk four yards, without encountering an almoft impenetrable net-work, compofed of a large kind of fupple-jack, or vine; which was fo very ftrong, as to fupprefs the growth of feveral trees, by bending them in every direction ; and they fo completely flopped our progrefs, that we were obliged to cut our way through them. No grafs, or herb of any kind, grew between the roots of thefe trees, although the foil every where was extremely rich and good; but this may be attributed to the total total exclufidn of the fun, and the want of air, which doubtlefs pre- chap, XI " ▼ent this fort of vegetation. The pines, which are numerous, are of « r *_r an incredible growth : one of them, which had been blown down, or 1788. had fallen by age, meafured 140 feet in length, and feveral which were M«cht meafured Handing, were 30 feet in circumference : they grow quite ftraight, and have no branches for near 80 feet from the ground. We found it impracticable to get into Anfon's bay, although we faw down into it; but the hill over it was a perpendicular cliff, with a large kind of iris growing on the fides of it, which was a providential circumftance, for, in our endeavour to get into the bay, we were all in the greateft danger of falling down the cliff; indeed, if the iris had not heen fufficiently ftrong to have fupported our weight, we muft have fallen down a depth of 90 feet. We were too much pleafed with, and thankful for our efcape, to attempt a fecond trial, as the whole of this fide of the ifland had the fame fteep appearance. In our return, we frequently heard a very diftincT: cry of " yaho," which feemed as if it was uttered by an animal or bird. During this excurfion, we did not fee a leaf of flax, or any herb whatever ; the ground, although a rich and deep foil, being quite bace, which is rather extraordinary, as Captain Cook fays that the flax plant is rather more luxuriant here than at New Zealand. We faw pigeons, parrots, parroquets, doves, and a variety of other birds, in great numbers, and fo very tame, that they might be knocked down with a flick. Large pieces of pumice flone were feen in every part; probably a crater, °r the remains of one, may be found at, or near a mountain, which rifes to a confiderable height in the middle of the ifland, and which I called Mount Pitt, in honour of the chancellor of the exchequer. Q^q 2 A* As the fandy bay, on the fouth-weft fide of the ifland, had not been examined to my fatisfaction, Lieutenant Ball propofed going round in the brig, and endeavour to land, which there was a great probability of effecting, as the wind was then at eaft-north-eaft: accordingly, at day-light in the morning of the 5th, we weighed, and ran round to the bay, which I had named Anfon-bay, after the parliamentary reprefentative for Litchfield. We found the furf too violent to land there, and I now began to think it would be impoflible to land on the ifland ; as I had nearly made a circuit of it, and had not found a place where I could attempt landing. There yet remained one place unexamined, which was the fouth fide of the ifland, in a bay, that appeared to be entirely lined with a reef, on which the furf broke with great violence. The wind being at eaft-north-eaft, we worked up for the bay, and at noon, the mafter was fent to examine if there were any opening through the reef; on his return he informed us, that landing in the bay was very fafe and practicable, as the reef terminated about two-thirds of the bay over, and round the point of this reef, landing was eafy and fafe. On hearing this report, Lieutenant Ball and myfelf went to examine the place, and found it exactly to anfwer the matter's defcription. The fhore, clofe to the beach, was covered with a long kind of iris, within which was an impenetrable fore ft : the foil was good. Here I refolved to fix, and was pleafed at having found a place where I could make a commencement. I had no doubt but water would be procured, and that at no great diftance from the fpot j but as it was very late in the evening, I returned on board the Supply, and (lie was foon after brought to an anchor in 20 fathoms, over a fandy bottom. At day-light on the 6th, I left the Supply with two boats, having in them all the perfons belonging to the fettlement, together with the tents, a rart of the provifions, and fome of the moft ufeful tools; all which NORFOLK I S L A N D.. 30* winch we landed, and began clearing a fmall piece of ground to erect C'HAF; the tents on : the colours were hoiiled, and before fun-fet,. every perfon v-w and article belonging to the fettlement were on fhore, and the tents »788. pitched. Before the colours were hauled down, I affcmbled my fmall colony under them, (Lieutenant Ball and fome of his officers being prefent,,) and drank the healths of his JVLijefty, the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and fuccefs to the fettlement: and, as we had no other way of teftifying our loyalty, wc gave three cheers on the occafion. The wind blew very hard the whole of the 7th, and the furf ran fo high that no > boat could land : the Supply ftill remained at anchor in the road. This day I began to clear a piece of ground for fowing fome feeds ; the fpot, which I fixed on for that purpofe, is on the eaft fide of an hill which has a tolerable eafy afcent, and the foil is rich and deep. Soon after landing, we found a very fine rivulet of water, which ran clofe at the back of the ground where the fettlement was made. I took the firft opportunity of examining the iiland around me, and found italmoft impenetrable from the fize of the trees, and the entangled ftate of their roots, which were in general two feet above the ground, and ran along it to a confiderable diftance. On the fpaces of ground unoccupied by thefe roots, there grew a kind of fupple-jack, which in general was as thick as a man's-leg; thefe fupple-jacks ran up the trees, and as they grew in every direction,, they formed an impenetrable kind of net-work ; bending fome trees to the ground, and then taking root again, they twined round other trees in the fame manner, until the whole became an impervious foreft. As I had only twelve men, (one of whom was feventy-two years eld, and another a boy of fifteen,) exclulive of the mate and furgeon, my pro-grefs for fome. time muft of courfe be very flow. On the 8 th we had *k ftrong gales of wind and cloudy weather : at nine in the morning, we hoifted the colours in a weft, as a fignal that the Supply's boat might land $ TRANSACTIONS AT land; and at eleven, we received the laft of our baggage, provifions, and ftores, and hauled the boat up. In the afternoon, Lieutenant Ball came on fhore to afk if I had any farther occafion for the Supply, and, as I bad not any, he took leave and returned on board; and in the afternoon failed for Port Jackfon. I fent by him a journal of my proceedings to Governor Phillip. The 9th, being Sunday, every perfon in the fettlement affcmbled in my tent, where I performed divine fervice ; after which my commiflion from the Governor, to whom we were fubordinate, was read, appointing me fuperintendant and commandant of this ifland: I then aflured every perfon, that my intention was to forward the King's fervice to the utmoft of my power ; and (addreffing myfelf to the convicts) I endeavoured to convince them, that thofe who were idle or diflioneit fliould not efcape that punifliment, which is due to ufelefs and deftructive members of fociety : I alfo informed them what ration of provifions would be allowed daily, and I held out every encouragement for them to behave with propriety and induftry. In the afternoon I faw fome turtle lying on a fandy beach at the eaft end of the bay; two of which we turned and brought to the tents for general ufe ; they were ifliied out in lieu of fait provifions. Finding we had turtle on the iiland, I gave ftrict orders that no perfon whatever fhould go near the beach where they were feen, in order to prevent them from being frightened, which might occafion the lofs of this valuable refource : the two turtle we had caught weighed two hundred weight each. From this time until the 15th, every perfon was employed in clearing away, and turning up the garden ground, which, when Jfinifhed, was enclofed by a hedge, and fown with a fmall quantity of of all the different kinds of feeds I was furnifhed with. The fize of chap, xi the enclofure was cighty-feven feet fquare: the foil very rich and deep, c—s^*j This afternoon I turned three more,turtles, which were brought to the 1?88, fettlement. We generally faw three lying on .the beach at low water, MarcIn in clear weather, but when cloudy, they never land; this, together with there being no appearance of any pits where they lay their eggs, leads me to fuppofe that they do not breed on any part of trie ifland; especially as this is the only place where there is a pofTibility for them to make their pits. The 16th, being Sunday,. I performed divine fervice. Two convicts, lowborn I had given leave the preceding day to take an excurfion into the interior part of the ifland, returned this day at noon quite naked : they had feveral cuts in different parts of their bodies, fome of which were deep, occafioned by the entangled ftate of the woods, and the fbarpneffc of the briars: they had not been an hour from the fettlement before they loft fight of the fun from the thicknefs of the woods; this caufed them to wander about till eleven o'clock, when they heard the noife of our church bell, which was a man beating on the head of an empty cafk, and prefcntly afterwards they returned to the fettlement. As my own fituation, and that of every other perfon was very uncomfortable, owing to the tents being clofe to the fea fhore, on which a heavy furf continually beats: I fet the people to work on the 17th, «7. to clear a piece of ground to the right of the garden, and a little above it; here I intended to move the tents, or to build houfes \ and having two lawyers and a carpenter, I fet them to work in digging a fawpit, in order to faw pine for building a ftore-houfe for the provifions and ftores,. 4 CHAP, they at prefent being lodged in my tent, which was made of the Sinus's XI. fprit-fail. •V~N—-17S8. March. The furgeon, in walking about the ifland, found out the flax-plant, which proved to be what we had hitherto called the iris : not having any dcfcription of this plant, i had no idea of its being what Captain Cook calls the flax-plant of New Zealand; the cliffs and fliore near the fettlement were covered with it; its root is bulbous, and eight leaves iflue from it, which arc, in general, five or fix feet in length, and about four inches broad, clofe to the root: the plant bears a great refemblance to the iris, except that the leaves are much thicker and larger; the flaxy part is the fibres, which extend the whole length of the leaf; towards the root they are very thick and ftrong, and diminifh in fize as they approach the end of the leaf. This plant, in its green ftate, is of a furprifing ftrength : from the quantity of dead leaves about the root, i .imagine it is an annual, and that the root fends forth frefh leaves. The method of preparing the New Zealand flax not being defcribed by Captain Cook, i caufed three bundles of ours to be put in the rivulet to foak, intending to try it after the European method of drefling flax, jg. The fawpit being finilhed on the 18 th, a fmall pine was cut down near it, which meafured 11 5 feet in -length, and two feet fix inches diameter at-the bale: a twelve foot length was got on the pit, and the fawyers began lawing it into framings and fcantliiags for the ftore-houfe. By the 19th, the greateft .part of the feeds we had procured at the Cape of Good Hope, and fown in the garden, were out of the ground, and feemed likely to do well; but fearcely any of the Englifh feeds grew, they, in general, being fpoiled. From this time till the iff of April, it wo men were employed in rawing up wood for the florc- houfe; one 6 man 19. April, i. man was building it, fix were clearing away the ground, and-the women burnt up the fmall boughs. The (lore-houfe was finished on the 2d : its dimcnfions were twelve feet fquare, and nine feet high. All the provifions and ftores were immediately brought from my tent and depofited in the ftore-houfe. During the laft three days the wind blew very ftrong from the fouth-weft, which blighted every plant that was come up and doing very well I had alfo the mortification to find that the rats were very numerous; they deftroyed fome Indian corn which was three inches out of the ground. As there was every reafon to fuppofe that the fouth-Weft winds would be frequent during the winter, I began to clear the ground on the north-eaft fide of the hill, (which I named Mount George) which, of courfe, would be fheltered from the fouth and fouth-weft: winds ; and it was my intention to continue clearing the ground in that fituation until the middle of June, when I purpofed lowing it with wheat and barley. I now found that no vegetables would thrive at this feafon of the year on the fouth fide of the mount; I therefore ordered the garden ground to be turned up and fown with wheat. The ground which we had for fome time been, clearing to fix the tents upon, being now ready for that purpofe, all the tents were moved to it on the 3d, and fome of the men began to build huts : the fawycrs were employed in fawing fcantling, and other neceflary timber to build me a houfe. I had much reafon to fear that the turtle were frightened away, as we had not feen any on the beach fince the 14th of March, although every precaution had been ufed to prevent their being molefted. This refource we could not help, feeling the want of, as its good effects had already been experienced by R r every every perfon on the ifland; indeed, there was not an individual who had not the fcurvy on landing, and fome of the convicts had it very bad j but they were now quite recovered. Another unfortunate circumftance was, that as yet we had not brought any vegetables to perfection; however, to make fome amends for this accident, we found a vaft number of cabbage-trees, the excellence of which are well known : they are a very good fubftitute for other vegetables, but one tree produces only a Angle cabbage. The wheat, which was fown in the garden ground on the 2d, was entirely eat up with rats by the 4th; they did not leave a Angle grain in the ground. As I had no cats, and only one dog, thefe vermin were likely to prove a ferious nuifance ; however, in order to rid ourfelves of them as much as poflible, I caufed all the empty cafks to be converted into traps. Behind the hill where the fettlement was fixed, there was a very large fwamp, occafioned by the overflowing of the rivulet: at the head of this fwamp there is a fine valley, in which a number of plantain or banana trees were found on the 5th; and a fmall fpot being near them which would not coft fo much pains or trouble to clear as many other places, I judged this would be a very good place for a garden ; efpecially as the furrounding hills entirely flickered it from the fea winds, and, from the appearance of the banana trees, I expected they would thrive very well when cultivated ; at prefent, they were in thick clufters, choaking each other; and being covered with wild vines and aquatic thrubs, their growth was confiderably retarded. Some fruit was found on them, but the birds had deftroyed it before it was ripe. NOR F O L K i S L A N D. 3°7 The fixth, being Sunday, I performed divine fervice; and as fome chap. irregularities had taken place, that did not merit corporal punifhment,v--v— being anxious to prevent any ill behaviour, which might render fuch a A7jiriJ ftep neceffary, I read the following orders for the prefervation of regu- 6. larity and decorum. ORDERS. As It is highly neceffary, for the prefervation of good order, regularity, and cleanlinefs, to eflablifh certain rules and regulations, the following are to be obferved and performed with the flrifteft attention, I. No perfon is to abfent himfelf from public worfhip, which will begin every Sunday morning at eleven o'clock, In the commandant's houfe, when every one will come clean and orderly, and behave themfelves devoutly. II. The hours of work are as follow: until further orders, to begin work at day-light, and work till half pan: feven ; at half paft eight, to work again until half paft eleven ; and then to work again at two until fun-Jet* III. In order to encourage the cultivation of gardens, every one will have the Saturdays to clear away and cultivate gardens for themfelves; and thofe who are induftrious will be encouraged, but thofe who misapply that indulgence will be deprived of it. IV. On application, at the proper time of the year, feeds will be diflributed to thofe who have cleared away garden ground ; and thofe Rr 2 who ch a p. who raife the greateft. quantity of feeds and vegetables will be encouraged i- —.—t and rewarded. 1788. V. The women are to fweep round the houfes or tents every morning, and to cook the victuals for the menand every perfon is ftrictly forbid cleaning any fifh or fowls in or near the houfes, but to go to the fea-fide for that purpofe. VI. Every perfon is ftrictly forbid going near Turtle Bay, and thofe who are found in it, or going there, will be inftantly and fevereJy puniihed. VII. The women are to collect the dirty linen belonging to the men efery Friday, and to return each man his proper linen, waflied and mended, on the Sunday morning. VIII. No perfon is to cut down or deftroy any banana tree. IX. Exchanging or felling cloaths by the convicts is ftrictly forbid. As their cloathing is the property of the crown, they are not to difpofe of it. A difobedience of this order will be deemed a theft, and meet with a fuitablc punifhment. It is recommended to every one to be careful of their cloathing and bedding, as accidents may happen which may prevent a fpeedy fupply. X. Great care is to be taken of all the tools; each man taking his axe or hoe to his tent, or delivering them to the ftore-keeper, that they may not be injured by the weather. XI. As \ XL As the future welfare of every perfon on this ifland depends on their chap. XI good behaviour, it Is recommended to them to perfevere in that willing 1 difpofition to work which they have hitherto fhewn ; and above all, to *78s. be honeft and obliging towards each other, which will recommend them p • to thofe who may have it in their power, and who have a wifh and inclination to ferve them: but the difhoneft or idle may not only affure themfelves of being totally excluded from any prefent or future indulgences, but alfo that they will be chaflifed, either by corporal punifliment on the ifland, or be fent to Port Jackfon, to be tried hy a criminal court there. CHAPTER CHAPTER XIL Regular employment of the conviBs.—Mcet wUb an unlucky accident*— "Thefts detected.—The robbers pimifhed.—Pejlered ivith rats.—Method of defraying them.—Live fock on the fettlement.—Trees difcovered which afford food for hogs.—Some of the fettlers poifoned.—Cured ivith fweet oil.—A convict punifiedfor ujingfditious language.—Birds on the if and. Defeription of Arthur s Vate.—His Majefiy's birth-day kept.—Flourifljiiig ftate of the gardens.—Arrival of the Supply.—Four perfons drowned.— Provifions andfores received.—Queries from Governor Phillip, and the an fivers.—Ball-Bay defcribed.—The landing-place cleared.—Arrival of the Golden Grove tranfport.—Marines and convicts brought in the Golden Grove.—Provifions and fores. chat, f | ^HE fettlement being now brought to fome degree of order, I X diitributed the people into regular working parties, in order to 17s8. facilitate the different operations which I was anxious to get forward as p fait poftible. Five men were fent to clear away ground on the north-eaft fide of Mount George 3 two were employed in clearing a road from the ground where we had pitched the tents, to the frclh-water rivulet ; two fawycrs were fawing timber to build me a houfe; two men were employed in building huts; and I fent Mr. Altree, (the furgcon's afiiftant) to the valley which has already been mentioned, in order to make a com- commencement there, but as he had only a boy to afiift him, his pro-grcfs was of courfe very flow. For fome time, the people were thus invariably employed; but the Work was often retarded by colds, which was the only ficknefs we had as yet experienced : the workmen, indeed, had been often blinded for four or five days together, by the white fap of a tree, which getting into their eyes, occafioned a mofl excruciating pain for feveral days. The beft remedy wc could apply, was Florence oil; which, dropped into the eye, deftroyed the acrimony of the fap. One man was totally blinded with it, for want of making timely application to the furgeon. On the 17th, I detected John Batchelor, one of the marines, in my tent, ftealing rum out of a fmall veffel, which contained what was drawn °ff to ferve the officers and men belonging to the Sirius ; and was kept in my tent, as I had not a more fecure place to put it in. In the afternoon, I affcmbled the fettlement, and punifhed the thief with three dozen lafhes; caufing him to be led by a halter to the place of punifhment : I alfo flopped the deficiency of rum out of his allowance. Though there was reafon to hope that this example would deter others from committing crimes of the like nature, yet it had not the defired effect; for on the 20th, a convict boy was detected ftealing the furgeon's allowance of rum, out of his tent. This boy was only fifteen years old, and was tranfported for feven years. I ordered him to be punifhed with an hundred lafhes, which I hoped would have a good effect. We now had two formidable enemies to encounter in the rat and grub-Worm, both which were very numerous and deftructive : fome wheat had been fowfl in the garden ground on the uth, and the next morning x there chap, there was not a grain of it left, being all eat up by the rats; and the xii. i^-^Lj few potatoes and other vegetables, which efcaped the bad effeds of the 1"!?s' foutherly wind, were all eat up by the grub-worm. I have before ob-1 ferved, that on our firft difcovering the rats to be numerous, I ordered the empty cafks to be converted into traps, and for fome time they were very fuccefsful, thirty or forty rats being caught for feveral nights together : thefe were' killed, and fcattered about the garden, to deter the reft from coming to the place ; but they foon grew too cunning to be caught in the traps, and too bold to be intimidated by their dead companions. I next caufed fome glafs to be pounded very fine, and mixed with oatmeal, which being diftributcd about the garden, killed vail numbers of them. To prevent the bad effects of the grub-worm, I tried allies, lye of allies, and urine, but to no purpofe, fo that the women were kept conftantly employed in picking them off the few plants we had left. Out of fix ewes which I brought to the ifland, five died with the feab, notwithstanding every poflible care was taken of them; and one of my lows was poifoned, by eating fomething noxious in the woods. The remainder of my fmall ftock was likely to do very well : it confifted of two ewes, three lows, two boars, four hens, one cock, three ducks, one drake, and one goat. The fugar-Canc, two Rio Janeiro banana trees, and two orange trees, which I brought with me, were kept in tubs, until I fhould find a Sheltered fituation to plant them in. The wind feemed now to be fet in from the fouthward, and the weather was very raw and cold, fo that I called this the beginning of winter. Another of my fows was poifoned 24. on the 24th, fo that I found it neceflary to confine them in a hog-pen, 2 which, NORFOLK ISLAND. 3, which, in regard to feeding them, was a great inconvenience, as they chap. Xll ufed to provide very well for themfelves in the woods; fortunately, v___ however, a tree was found which afforded them very good food : this i78s. tree grows to the height of eighty feet, and the branches, which re- Apn1' femble thofe of the palm-tree in their growth, fall off every year, leaving an indentation in the trunk. The leaves of thefe branches, which are twelve in number, are much like the heath-fern, from whence this tree obtained the name of the fern-tree. The middle of the tree, from the root to the apex, confifts of a white fubfhnce refembling a yam, and when boiled, it tafles like a bad turnip; this the hogs fed on very eagerly : the outride of the trunk is hard wood, and full of regular indentations from the top to the bottom. The tree is found in great plenty in all parts of the ifland. At the end of this month, I fent fome of the people to affifl Mr. Altree, at the plantation in Arthur's Vale, which was the name I gave to the valley he had begun to clear; the refl were employed in clearing the ground at Mount George, except three men, whom I fet to dig a cellar under my houfe. On the 8th of May, the two fawyers, the carpenter, and three con- May.8. victs were poifoned, by eating fome beans, which had a very tempting appearance, and much refembled the Windfor bean : they had gathered a quantity, which were boiled, and afterwards fried with butter : in two hours time, they were feized with violent gripings, retchings, and cold fweatS; fortunately, I had a gallon of iwcet oil, which, with other medicines adminiftered by the furgeon, happily ^ave them relief; but they were fo much weakened and exhaufted that they were not able to work for a week afterwards. S f For For fome time paft, we had feen no turtle, and it was probable that the cold weather had driven them to a warmer climate. As we could catch no fifh from the fhore, I launched the boat on the 9th, and fent her into the roads to fifh ; they returned with the boat in two hours, and brought thirty-fix very fine fifh, weighing from fix to eight pounds each : thefe I caufed to be iffued out in lieu of fait provifions, at the rate of fix pounds of fifh for one pound of beef. The boats grapnel was left in the road, and being hooked in the rocks, we never could clear it. This ample fupply of fifh was a moft fortunate event; yet they could not be depended on as a conftant refource ; for fometimes it would happen, that a boat could not go without the reef for a fortnight together, on account of the very violent furf; but when a boat could be fent out, there was no danger of catching a vaft. quantity. On the 10th, I was obliged to inflict a punifhment of forty ladies on one of the convicts, for making ufe of very threatening and feditious language. I had received orders from Governor Phillip, to make a frying of the lait provifions, whenever filh or turtle could be obtained, in order that they might laft as long as poflible : the putting this order in execution when the turtle were caught, produced murmuring; but, when the fifh was iffued on the 9th, the convict who was punifhed, faid, " the people (meaning thofe in the fettlement) were fools for •* fuffering their fait provifions to be flopped," and " that the convicts " would foon be the ftrongeft, and then it would be feen who were ft mailers." As I thought this language deferved punifliment, I affem-bled the people, and pointed out to them, that, independent of the orders- NORFOLK ISLAND. «, orders I had received, I raw the greateft ncceflity for making every pof- chap. fible faring of the provifions: I reprefented to them that misfortunes ^— might happen to veffels, provifions might get fpoilcd, and many other h#8« accidents might happen, which would render it neceflary for us to go M:iy* to a fliort allowance ; and, that the greater quantity of provifions which could be faved would be fo much the better for the whole fettlement: I concluded with affuring them, that I fliould invariably attend to my orders, and put them in execution ; and that a very fevere punifliment would be inflicted on any who prefumed to excite fedition, or behaved improperly on that, or any other pretext. On our firft landing, we found a great number of pigeons, which were fo tame, that wc knocked them down with flicks j but latterly they quitted the low boughs, and generally harboured about the tops of the pines : when plucked and drawn, they weighed from three-quarters, to one pound each. The parrots are numerous, and the uglieft bird of the kind I ever heard of; this, added to the harfhnefs of their note, makes them a very difagrceable bird. The parroquets are entirely green, except a red tuft on their head. Hawks are numerous and of two different kinds, the grey and blue : they were great enemies to the young chickens, and it was no unufual fight to fee them take up the rats, Quails and curlews are plentiful, but very fhy. The owls, which have very handfome plumage, make a noife like one man calling to another, and they pronounce the word " yaho" very diftinc~tly. Many of the fmaller birds have a moil: melodious note, and their plumage is very beautiful. There are alfo a fpecies of birds which burrow in the ground like rabbits, where they hatch their eggs, and rear their young : they are web-footed; which is rather extraordinary, and their bill is like thai of other fca-fowl; but they have not the leaft fifhy tafle, and S f 2 their CHAP, their flefh is very fine. Thefe birds never quit their holes till fun-fet; XII. -r^—' from which time, until midnight, the air is full of them : they afforded 1788. us many frefh meals. May. I now fet the two fawyers and two carpenters to work in building houfes; one man was employed in making a crab to heave the boat by, another attended the live-flock, and the remainder were bufied in clearing ground at Mount George, and Arthur's Vale. 37- By the 17th, the rain was almofl inceffant, and, as I had every reafon to fuppofe it would continue fo three or four months longer, which would endanger the health of thofe who lived in tents j I caufed the provifions to be removed from the ftore-houfe to a cellar under my houfe, which was dry, and the flores I put into a loft *, and, as five men and three women lived at prefent in tents, I put them into the flore-houfe, until they could build huts for themfelves. The whole fettlement were now well flickered, except the furgeon and the midfhipmanj for whom I propofed to begin a houfe immediately. 18. On the 18th, the fhell of my houfe was fmifhcd : its dimenfions were twrenty-four feet long by twelve feet wide, and eight feet under the eaves: the rules and roof were weather-boarded. I fent the boat out this afternoon, and flie returned with fifty very fine fifh, which were iffued out as ulnar. I fet out on the 19th, with an intention of tracing the rivulet which runs through Arthur's Vale, to its fourcc, and like wife to examine the extent of the valley j but, after wandering about the greateft part of the day, I returned back, much fatigued, and all the cloaths torn off my back by the briars and the entangled ftate of the woods, Arthur's Arthur's Vale is fituated between the north fide of Mount George and c: P. the oppofite hills: its direction is about north-north-weft into the in- t terior part of the ifland. The bottom of this valley, in fome places, is 1788* not more than thirty yards wide$ in others, at leaft three hundred. The M }' hills on each fide are cloathed with a thick foreft; their afeent is not too fteep for cultivation, and the foil is excellent, being a fat brown earth. A very fine rivulet runs through this vale, fufficiently large to turn any number of mills. As the bank of the fca-fhore is confiderably above the level of the rivulet, it finks into the earth j and, after pairing under the bank, it forces a paffage for itfelf through a fifth re of the rock, on Stony Beach and Turtle Bay, between high and low water marks, where it boils up with great force, and is excellent water. As the whole of this water is not carried off by the paffage juft mentioned, fufHcient to keep the low ground clear, wThat does not pafs under the bank, overflows the lower part of the valley, for the fpace of half a mile : this fwamp might be drained by cutting a channel for the rivulet to empty itfelf on the fea-fliore j but the operation v/ould require time and a number of hands, and, when finifhed, it is not clear but that the force, of the fea would foon fill the channel up again. I cannot afcertain the length of this vale, but I think it runs as far as Mount Pitt, where, moft probably, the rivulet takes its rife. That part of the vale which I have already faid Mr. Altree was clearing, is half a mile from the fettlement, near a large clufter of plantain trees 5 he tranfplanted fome of the young fuckers, an operation which was likely to improve them much: a garden, which meafured ninety rods was planted, and moft of the plants were up and likely to do very well. The fugar-cane, orange trees, and Rio Janeiro plantains, which had hitherto been kept in tubs, were now planted in the vale, and I had hopes- CHAP, hopes they would thrive, as the fituation was well fheltereu: I alfo XII. v——*• planted a quantity of cotton feeds, as fome which were fown when wc 1?88' firft came on fhore, rotted in the ground. June. ; i. The i ft of June, being Sunday, I performed divine fervice as ufual. In the afternoon, I went in the boat, and attempted to land on Nepean I lie, on the fouth-weft fide-of which is a fmall creek that goes in a confiderable way, with a fmall fandy beach at the end of it; but as there was a number of rocks in the creek, and a furf beating on the fhore, I did not land. This ifland is covered with pines, which grow at a diftance from each other: there is a reef off the fouth-eaft fide, which ftrctches near a mile; within a fhip's length of it, there is fourteen fathoms water, and nine fathoms all round the eaft fide, within half a mile of the fliore. The paffage between Point Hunter and Nepean Ifland is a very good one, there being three fathoms clofe to Nepean Ifle, and eight fathoms in mid-channel. I founded clofe along the back of the reef which runs along Sydney-Bay, and found four fathoms within a fhip's length of the reef. I returned at fun-fet, having caught thirty-fix very fine fifh, which were iffued out as ufual. I brought only five months bread and flour to the ifland, and it being now expended to three cafks of each, which was twyo months bread at full allowance, and as I had near fix months fait provifions, I put myfelf and every perfon on the iiland to two-thirds allowance of flour and 5. bread on the 2d, until the arrival of more provifions. 0 4, The 4th, being the annivcrfary of his Majefty's birth-day, I caufed it to be obferved as a holiday. The colours were hoifted at fun-rife ; every perfon had a good dinner, of the produce of the ifland, and I gave the ► the convicts fome liquor to drink their fovereign's health : the evening concluded with bonfires, which, exclufive of the joy we felt at the return of his Majefty's birth-day, and the celebrating it in this diftant part of the globe, we with pieafure faw fome large piles of wood burnt that had been along time collecting, and which were a great incumbrance to us. At day-light in the morning of the 15th, the midihipman and four men went out in the boat to fifh: they were returning at nine o'clock, and in pafling the point of the reef, the fine weather, and the abfence of furf, threw them fo much off their guard, that the boat fhipped a fea which filled her, and wafhed John Batchelor, a marine, overboard: the boat, with the reft of the men, drove in among the rocks to the weftward of the landing-place, where they were faved with great difficulty, having received violent contufions. The boat was got round to the crab and hove up; fhe was much damaged, and her repairs werer fkely to take up a confiderable time, as i had only two men who could aiiift in this bufinefs. The wheat which was fown on the north-eaft fide of Mount George, the 15th of June, being all rotten in the ground, except 260 blades, which I tranfplanted and put together, that patch of ground was fown with barley on the ift of July. The wheat had a very bad appearance when put into the ground, being much heated and deftroyed by the Weevil. The labourers were employed the greateft part of this month in clearing away and turning up fome ground near my houfe, for a garden ; its fize about thirty rods. The barley which was fown on the ift came up 8 on on the ioth, and every thing at the plantation had a promifing afpect. On the 15th, the laft cafk of beef and pork were opened, which would fcrvc forty-four days at full allowance it therefore was my intention to put every perfon to half allowance on the 28th, fhould no provifions arife before that period. On the 17th, wc had a moft tremendous gale of wind from the northward, accompanied by a deluge of rain. The ga;es of wind were now very frequent from the fouth-weft and north-well, but it feldom blew hard from the eaftward. Thefe gales generally happen'about the full and change of the moon, and continue three or four days. We planted upwards of one thoufand cabbages on the 23d, and every vegetable at the plantation was in a thriving ftate: we had turneps, carrots, lettuces of three forts, onions, leeks, parfley, cellery, five forts of cabbages, corn fallad, artichokes, and beet in great forwardnefs j but there was reafon to fear that the potatoes and yams were quite deftroyed by the grub-worm. At five in the evening of the 26th, bis Majefty's armed tender the Supply hove in fight, coming round Point Rofs: fhe ran to leeward of this ifland, between Nepean and Phillip Ifles, to ride out the gale, which blew very ftrong at weft-fouth-weft. Mr. Waterhoufe, and a midfhipman belonging to the Supply, arrived at the fettlement on the 27th, with my difpatches from the governor; they were fent by Lieutenant Ball, who landed them in Ball's Bay. I found the Supply had brought provifions, tools, and feeds of various kinds for the fettlement. I was informed by Governor Phillip, that as the Sirius would go to the northward in the month of September, he had deferred fending any 2 more more convicts until he heard my account of the iiland ; and that if he Chap. thought it advifeable to fend more fet tiers, they would be brought in u— the Sirius, which fhip he intended fending among the iflands, to pro-cure flock for breeding. At day-light on the 28th, the midfhipman 28. returned to Ball Bay, in order to go on board the Supply. The labourers were employed in removing fome large flones from the landing-place, and making a road to roll up the calks. 1 received a meiTage from Lieutenant Ball on the 29th, intimating, 29. that as the wind was foutherly and blew flrong, he meant to anchor under the north-eafl part of the ifland and as I expected he would anchor in Cafcade Bay, I fent a man acrofs the ifland on the 30th with 30. a letter for him. At ten in the morning of the 31 ft, the Supply's boat landed with 31. fome light articles ; Lieutenant Ball fent a carpenter in her to offer his afTiflance in building a convenient boat for the ufe of the fettlement : I directed him to begin his work immediately, and fet the fawyers to work in fawing plank for his ufe. The other workmen were employed in turning up a piece of ground to fow two pecks of good feed wheat on, which came in the Supply. From the 1 ft to the 4th of Auguft, the wind blew very ftrong from Augurt. the fouthward, which prevented the Supply from coming on that fide of the iiland ; but at fun-fet on the 4th, the wind veering to north-eaft, 4« flie came round Point Rofs, and anchored in the roads. The man whom I fent on the 30th of July acrofs the ifland to find the Supply, returned this day at noon, much exhaufled and fatigued: he had loft his way, and had been without food for three days; fortunately, the Supply T t was was {landing in for the fliore and faw him, otherwifc he mull have perifhed. Landing was very fafe in the afternoon of the 5th, and we received on fliore a part of the provifions and flores. At day-light in the morning of the 6th, we hoifted the colours as a fignal that the landing was fafe, and at feven o'clock the colours were flruck half flaff, this being the fignal that landing was dangerous, the furf having confiderably increafed with the flowing tide. At half paft fi^ven the Supply weighed, and foon afterwards fhe hove to and hoifted her boats out, and fent them towards the fhore. I perceived her fmall boat was determined to come in, and being apprehenlive that fome accident might happen, I ordered Mr. Cunningham (the mate) into our boat, with four men, to lie within the point of the reef, in order to aflift the Supply's boat, fhould any misfortune happen to her : unfortunately, our boat was fwept away to the weftward by the tide, and whilft they were endeavouring to get under the point of the reef again, a heavy furf broke on her broad fide and overfet her. The anguilh I felt at this (hocking accident may be more eafily conceived than defcribed : fmall as our numbers were before, they were now decreafed by the iofs of Mr. Cunningham, (whom I fmcerely cherifhed as a good young man) the fawycr, and one of the beft of the convicts ; a feaman belonging to the Supply was alfo drowned, and another convict narrowly efcaped the fame fate. Immediately after this dreadful misfortune the Supply's jolly-boat landed with three cafks of flour, and as the large boat was coming near the fliore, I ordered fome mufquets to be fired, on which fhe returned on board : the Supply bore up, and ran to leeward of the iiland. At one o'clock, there being fcarcely any furf, the 6 jolly- jolly-boat went off, and ran to leeward of the iiland, to get on board chap. the-brig. 1788. Auguft. On the 7th, I was obliged to punifh one of the convicts with thirty- 7. fix lafhes, for dealing a hatch of eggs from under a hen which was fitting on them. At day-light on the 8th, the Supply anchored in the 8. road, and the landing being good, we received part of the provifions and Ilores ; the remainder were landed on the 10th. t«« Our new boat being finiflied, I fent the carpenter and Mr. Waterhoufe on board the Supply, in the morning of the 11 th, with my lette for the Governor; and foon afterwards (lie hoifted her colours, and fet fail for Port Jackfon. I received from Governor Phillip feventeen queries, which, with my anfwers. to them, are as follow: Query 1. In what time do you think the ifland will be able to fup-port the people you have with you, independent of fupplies from this fettlement ? Anfwer. From the excellence of the foil, and the prefent appearances, the ifland will produce more than a fufficiency of grain in two years: animal food depends on the fupply and breeding of ftock 5 and cloathing on the flax-plant being brought to work. Q^2. Do you wifti to have more people fent you, and what number of men and women do you wifh to have in addition to thofe you have already. T t 2 Arifc chap. Anf. With twenty more men, and women in proportion exclufive, i_ t- ..i I fliould be able to make a little progrefs in clearing and cultivating the 1788, ground. Auguft. Q^3. In what time do you think the ifland will be able to maintain the additional number of people you wifh to have fent you ? Anf. I think in two years* but in three at moft, as anfwered by the firft queftion. . What ground have you in cultivation ? Anf. Two acres and an half in barloy, and one acre in garden ground : in September I (hall have an acre in Indian corn and rice. "Q^ 5. Have you difcovered the flax-plant ? Anf. Yes: fome bundles of the flax-plant which I put into water on the 17th of March were taken up the 27th of July, when we found that the thick vegetable of the fibres had rotted away, but ftill they were covered with an hard woody fubftance, from which we have ineffectually tried to feparate the flaxy part, which I have no doubt would make good cordage, canvas, and linen, as it appears to be of a fine and ftrong texture. Some lines were made of it, which were tolerably ftrong and good ; but the want of a method to feparate the woody part-from the flax, will be a great hindrance to its being made ufeful. Q^6. How many acres of clear ground have you found in the ifland? Anf. Not a yard fquare. Q^7. Have you any place round the ifland at which a veflel of thirty or forty tons can remain at anchor in fecurity all the year round ? 3 Anf* Anf. None; without removing to the lee fide of the ifland as the chap. xi j wind changes. Anchorage is good all round the ifland, as the bottom is a coral fand: at about two miles from the land the circular depth is 1788. twenty-two fathoms. An harbour might be made by cutting a channel Au«uft> through the reef about four hundred feet long, but it would be neceflary to blow up fome funken rocks to facilitate the entry: if it fhould ever be thought proper to do this, five veffels of feven feet draught might lie all the year round in fecurity within the reef: they will not be able to enter but in the fineft weather, with the wind from north-eaft to north-weft, and then they muft warp in : perhaps lefs difficulty will ba found when I am informed of the ftate of the weather during the Summer months. 0^8. How far will it be poflible to load any fhip hereafter with fpars for fhips of the line ; I mean with refpecl: to the great difficulty, I am told, there is tosland any thing on the ifland, or to take any thing off? Anf. I cannot anfwer this queftion fo fully as I could wifh, until I am acquainted with the ftate of the weather during the fummer months. In fine weather, with the wind at north-eaft, fpars of any dimenfions may be fent off from Sydney-Bay, by mooring a boat without the reef, and hauling the fpars off. I have great reafon to fuppofe anchorage will be very fafe off Sydney-Bay in the fummer. I think veffels might be built and launched in Ball-Bay,' and when the flax-plant can be brought to work, cordage and fails can be made of the fineft and ftrongeft fort. 0^9. How does your ftock thrive, and what does the ifland produce ? Anf. Of the ftock I brought with me, five ewes are dead with the JScab, and two fows poifoned: the reft are all very thriving and likely to do > CHAP, do well. The productions of the iiland, are timber for the conftruction X1T. of veffels, pines for mailing them, and, when the flax-plant can be worked, a fufficiency of cordage for the navy of Great-Britain, which needs no cultivation, as the ifland abounds with it, and frefli leaves fhoot from the roots. Pigeons, parrots, parroquets, and other birds, are in abundance ; the fea abounds with fifh, and probably we may have turtle during the fummer months. A number of banana trees have been found on the ifland. 10. What live flock do you wifli to have fent you ? Anf. Stock of any kind would be acceptable for breeding. I have no fhe-goats. The leaves of the trees and underwood, -afford ample and wholefomc food for many animals, and the fern-tree, which is very plentiful, is very good food for hogs. Q^n. Are thofe who are with you fatisflcd, or do they wifli to be relieved ? Anf. Every one is fatisfied, and no perfon withes to be relieved. 12. What weather have you in general ? Anf. During the months of March and April, we had veiy fine weather fince when, it has been variable j and when the wind has been at fouth, and fouth -weft, the air was raw and cold. The full and change of the moon has generally been accompanied with very heavy gales of wind and torrents of rain, from the north-eaft, or fouth-weft, i>oth of which have been very violent at times. Wc have had no thunder or lightning, nor ice. ^ T3< Q. 13. What are the prevailing winds ? char xii Anf. The winds have been variable 1 wefterly winds appear to be 1-^ moft frequent during the winter, and I have great reafon to fuppofe 1788. eafterly winds are conftant during the fummer. Auguft. 14. Have you been at the fmall iflands ? Anf. I have been round Nepean Ifland once, but could not land on it, the wind being wefterly, which made a great break in the fmall fandy bay which lies on the fouth-weft fide of that ifle. My not having men to row, and the uncertainty of the weather, has prevented my going to Phillip ifle. 0^15. Are there any animals on the ifland, and of what kind are they ? Anf. None but rats, which are diftruclive, and have been very numerous; but now they are much thinned. 16. Have yon found any lime or chalk ftone I Anf. None. 0^17. Have you been fupplied with fifh ? Anf. Fiih in great numbers, and of a large fize, abound all round the ifland. Some turtle were caught foon after I landed, but the approach of cold weather drove them off. I have not been able to fend the boat off fo often as I wifhed, not having men to row, but when She has gone out, a plentiful fupply of fifh has been obtained. At fun-rife on the 12th of Auguft, we hoifted the colours, in ob- X2m ■fcrvance of the birth-day of his Royal Highnefs the Prince of Wales; and chap, and the fame day a rood and an half of ground was (own with a peck XII. ^-v^j of feed wheat, which I received by the Supply. Anguft. From this time till the 17th, every perfon was employed in clearing a piece of ground to fow the remainder of the feed wheat, which was brought by the Supply ; and this being completed, i fent the labourers to clear away, turn up, and plant half an acre of ground in Arthur's Vale, with Indian corn. The frequent accidents which had happened to boats here, made me anxious to fearch for a better landing place, or a place where landing might be practicable, when the furf ran too high to land in Sydney-Bay; and Lieutenant Ball having mentioned one as likely in Cafcade-Bay, on the north fide of the ifland, I fet out at day-light in the morning, taking three men along with me, in fearch of it; propofing, at the fame time, to examine Ball-Bay in my road. 1 left the furgeon commanding officer at the fettlement, and I cannot help teftifying the great fatisfaction I felt at having a perfon of his character, to fuperintend the work in my abfence, and his fteadinefs and general knowledge, made him a valuable affociate. After climbing and defcending a number of fteep hills, and cutting our way through the thick woods which covered fome imall plains, we arrived at a gully to the weftward of Ball-Bay, about eleven o'clock; from whence we walked round to the bay by the fea-fliore, it being low water. The diftance between the two points of Ball-Bay is about a mile anf! a half; it goes in weft-north-weft, and is nearly a mile deep. At the diftance of two hundred yards from the fliore, the bay is entirely fur-rounded with ileep hills, except in the center, where there is a valley, down down which, a dream of frefh water runs, and empties itfelf on the chat. xu beach. The fides of thefe hills are cloathed with pines and the flax- \^--^-^ plant; the beach is covered with large round flones, under which is a J78^ hard bottom, formed by the incruflation of fand and fhells. The wind AuSuft» being now at fouth-fouth-eafl, there was not the leaft furf on the beach ; and I apprehend, that when the wind blows from the fouth-weft, which makes very bad landing in Sydney-Bay, the landing is very good here; fo that, fliould I not find Cafcade-Bay a more eligible place than this, it was my intention to make a creek on the beach, by removing the ftones for the breadth of twenty feet, until the bottom is clear, and as they are very heavy, I do not think it would be liable to fill up again. I paffed the remainder of the day here, and flept under a tent which I had brought with me. The next morning at day-light, we fet out iU from Ball-Bay in order to go to Cafcade-Bay, on the north fide of the ifland, which is not more than three miles diftant, yet we did not arrive there before five o'clock in the afternoon, quite exhaufted and fatigued; having been under the ncceflity of cutting Our way through the entangled underwood, which intercepted us in every direction. The landing place mentioned by Lieutenant Ball, is on a rock, a little detached from the iiland, and has communication with it at half tide: there is no objection to this being a very good landing place, if it were not for the almoft total impofTibility of getting any article of provifions or flores further than the rock, which is at leaft three hundred yards from the valley that leads down to it. Between this rock and the cafcade, there is a ftony beach, fimilar to that at Ball-Bay, on which landing is very good, with foutherly winds, and they generally prevail during the winter. Spars might be fent off from hence with great cafe; U u but chap, but fliould the ifland remain fettled, it will be neceflary to make the xii. , -,- j landing at this place more convenient than it is at prefent. We pafled 17SS. tne night in the valley above the cafcade : this valley is extenfive, and a«guft. a very large deep rivulet runs- through it. 19. At day-light on the 19th, we fet out on our return to Sydney-Bay, where we arrived at four in the afternoon, with fcarcely a rag to cover ourfelves, the deaths being torn off our backs by the briars. I obferved the foil to be very good in every part of the ifland I viiited during the excurfion, and it was well watered; but the woods were almoft impaffable. There is a deal of level ground on the tops of the hills, and moil of them' will admit of cultivation ; and where they are too fteep for that purpofe, the timber which grows on them might be referved. for fuel.. The wheat which we had fown on the 12th and 17th, was all out of 24. the ground by the 24th; and had a very promifing appearance. t$. Early in the morning of the 25th, the furgeon, with fix men, went to Ball-Bay, to make a commencement on the creek 5 taking a week's provifions and four tents along with them. *7. I viiited this party, on the 27th, and found they had made good pro- gress, coniidering that their labour was greatly retarded by neap tides, and an eafterly wind, which threw a.great furf upon-the beach. The furgeon and his party returned on the 30th,. and the next September jsiofniog, at day-light, I fet out, with fome men, to fee what 3 further NORFOLK ISLAND. 33-further could be effected: we got to the bay bv half paft eight CM A*. XII o'clock, and found the tides of the preceding day bad thrown a number 1 v of loofe fmall flones into the cut. As the tide ebbed, I directed the labourers to clear away a number of large flones which lay in the entrance Sepwmbe*, of the cut; and at low water, all the ft ones were removed as far out as poflible, which was compleated at five o'clock in the afternoon. The cut was about three feet deep, and at half tide there was upwards of fix feet at the entrance : with any other wind than between fouth-weft and north-well, there is a furf on the beach, which often breaks with fo much violence, as to render any attempt to land highly dangerous. As 1 found every thing done at this place, which could be effected with the fmall number of men I had,, we returned to Sydney-Bay on the 3d. 3, Hitherto, the people on the fettlement had not done much work for themfelves ; and, all the good feed of Indian corn being fown, I gave every perfon liberty from this time till the 14th, to clear away their gardens, and fow them. For four days paft, a fingle turtle had been obferved on the beach ^ I was loath to turn it, hoping it would draw others on, but finding that did not happen, it was turned on the 6th day, and & brought to the fettlement, where it was ferved out as ufual. This turtle had been recently wounded between the fhoulders with a -kind of peg; which circumftance, together with fome pieces of canoes, a wooden image refembling a man, and a frefli cocoa-nut, found in Ball-Bay, induced me tofuppofe that there is a confiderable ifland undifcovered, 3lot far from the eaftward of Norfolk-Ifland. The Indian-corn fown during the laft and prefent month, was now all up, and likely to do well* U u 2 I fee I fet off at day-light in the morning of the 15th, and went to the weftern or rocky point. The entangled ftate of the woods on this part of the ifland, were worfe, if poflible, than any where elfe, but the foil and general appearance was much the fame. From Point-Rofs to Rocky-Point, the fliore is inacceflible; confifting altogether of fteep cliffs, which rife perpendicular from the fea, I returned at fun-fet, much fatigued, and my cloaths, as ufual on thefe excurfions, were torn from my back. As the houfes-and tents were furrounded by a thick wood, I fet the men to make an opening to the fea-fide, by cutting down the trees and piling up the timber. In the courfe of this month, wc faw a great number of whales and thrafhers, fome of which came clofe to the reef: indeed, on our firft: landing here, I found the entire fkeletons of two whales, which had every appearance of having been driven on fliore, and the flefh deftroyed by rats and birds. On counting fome of the plants of barley, I found one grain produced 124 ftalks ; this pleafing profpecl: induced me to fet about building a granary of eighteen feet long by twelve feet wide ; and I fet the fawyers and carpenters to work in fawing wood for that purpofe : fome of the labourers were ordered to aflift them in placing, the granary on pofts, others were employed in making fhingles to cover it with, and the reft were digging a cellar under the furgeon's houfe, for flowing provifions;: the women were employed in picking grubs off the Indian corn. In In the beginning of October, we found a fenfiblc alteration in the CHAP, weather, it being very warm, except the mornings and evenings, which ; -> '.j were ftill cold: gales of wind were lefs frequent, and the landing was 1788. better in general than it had been for two months back. Some heavy rain fell on the 3d, which lodged the barley, that had been fome time in ear, and the rats got to it, fo that our return was likely to be but fmall. The Indian corn, which was about eight inches high, fuffered greatly from the grub-worm, which got into the plant and cut it off clofe to the ground, deftroying forty or fifty plants in the courfe of one night, which obliged me to keep the women conftantly employed in picking them off: every other remedy was tried ; fuch as fprinkling afhes, and lye of afhes round the roots, but with no good effect. I made an excurfion to Mount Pitt in the morning of the 4th, and ,\. arrived there at noon : from the top of this mount, I had a complete view of the whole ifland, and a part of its fea-coaft. The whole exhibited-a picturefque fcene of luxuriant natural fertility, being one continued thick wood, and I found the foil every where excellent. Within a mile ef the fummit of Mount Pitt, the ground, which is a red earth, was full of very large holes, and I fell into one of them at every ftep, as they were concealed by the birds making their burrows aflant. Near the fummit of the mount, there grew a number of very large pines, which I was furprifed at it is indeed wonderful how they can withftand. the violent gales of wind which often blow here. On the 13th, at day-light, we faw the Golden-Grove tranfport lying ij* at an anchor in the road, and foon afterwards, Mr. Donovan, a midfhip-man belonging to the Sirius, came on fhore, and delivered the governor's letters: by this gentleman I alfo received a letter from Mr. Blackburn, the mafter. chap, mafter of the Supply, informing me' that he failed from Port Jackfon on the 24th of September, being ordered by Governor Phillip to con-!738- duct the tranfport to this iiland; that he had brought Mr. Donovan, )a°bcr- a ferjeant, a corporal^ and five private marines, two gardeners, who . were feamen belonging to the Sirius, and twenty-one men and eleven women convicts; alio the Supply's jolly-boat and boat's crew, to atBft in unloading the Golden-Grove. In the courfe of the 15th, we received on more the party of marines and all the convicts; alfo molt of the ftores, and fome provifions. The next day we landed 56 calks of flour, and 18 cafks of fait provifions,, befides a quantity of ftores. This day I turned a turtle, which weighed 200 pounds. Towards evening, the Golden-Grove weighed, and flood off and on during the night. Ever fince her arrival the weather had been fine, and not the leaft furf. CHAPTER CHAPTER Xin. Quantity of provifions received by the Golden Grove.—Timber fent to Port Jackfon.—Obfervations on the navigation near No?folk If and.—Number of perfons on the fettlement.—Nepean and Phillip Iflands defcribed.— Corn reaped.—A party fent to Ball Bay.—Tafk-work of the convicts.— The free people exercifed.—Plot to fize the if and difcovered.—Orders made public for the prefervation of regularity.—Oath of allegiance ad-yninifered.—Provifions and fores examined* THE flood tide running ftrong all the morning of the 16th, and chap. the wind being to the eaftward, prevented the Golden Grove y ^"l, from working up : and though fhe fetched Point Rofs in the afternoon, *?8,8' 01 0 October* the flood making, fhe was fvvept to leeward.. 16. Having received inftruclions from Governor Phillip to fend all the ufeful timber I conveniently could to Port Jackfon, I fet the men to work in cutting fpars, and faw ing boards for that purpofe.. At day-, light in the morning of the 17th, the Golden Grove ftood into the road 17, and anchored, but the furf ran fo high that no boats could, pafs before low water, which was at three in the afternoon, when I fent the Coble off; but as the furf increafed, I made the fignal for her to be hoifted in, and foon afterwards the tranfport got under weigh. The The next forenoon, the coble came on fhore, and foon afterwards the Golden Grove anchored in the road. The fame afternoon we landed eighteen cafks of flour, and ten of fait provifions. Landing was very good until the evening of the 21ft, and during that time we received the whole of the ftores and provifions from the Golden Grove : I alfo received two fows and fourteen young pigs belonging to the crown, and a {he-goat, which was the property of Mr. Collins, the judge-advocate. The provifions received were—one hundred and twenty-fix barrels of flour, thirty-nine tierces of beef and twenty-two tierces of pork, twenty-three firkins of butter, thirty-three cafks of peas, and five puncheons of rum, which were about feven teen months provifions at the following ratio :—For one man for a week, flour, feven pounds : beef, three pounds and a half: pork, two pounds: butter, fix ounces: peas, three pints. For one woman for a week, flour, four pounds and a half: beef, two pounds and a quarter : pork, one pound and a quarter : butter, four ounces : peas, two pints. It fhould be obferved, that the above ratio was full avoirdupoife weight, without any deduction whatever. During the night of the 22d, we had very ftrong gales of wind, and at day-light, I perceived the Golden Grove had left the road 3 I afterwards learnt that fhe parted her cable at ten o'clock, and was not more than her own length to windward of the reef of rocks which lie off the fouth-eaft end of Nepean Iiland in pafling it. From this time to the 28th, we had only three days good landing, during which a'number of fpars and planks were fent on board the •Golden Grove, for Port Jackfon. Previous to the departure of that 6 veffel, veflel, I wrote a letter to Mr. Blackburn, requeuing him to communi- CHAP, cate his remarks on the navigation round thefe iflands; as he had a better —y-^j opportunity of making himfelf acquainted with it than I poflibly could l/88- ~* October. have, to which he l/eturned the following anfwer; and, from the abilities of this oilicer, I believe his obfervations arc very accurate. <« North-north-weft, about five miles from Duncombe Bay, there is «« a bank of coarfe land and coral, with fixteen and feventeen fathoms " on it, between which and the anchoring place there are twenty-five " fathoms : there are alfo foundings north-eaft from Phillip Ifle, from M thirty-iivc to twenty-five fathoms at leaft four leagues off; at which " diftance it is fouleft and fhoalleft. The bearings, when at anchor in " Duncombe Bay, were Cook's rocks eaft-fouth-eaft, and the rocks off " Point Howe, we ft-fouth-weft one quarter weft, the landing rock ** fouth, diftance off one mile; the depth nineteen fathoms, coarfe M fand and coral. The beft anchorage in the Cafcade Bay is with the " great cafcade fouth-weft, and Cook's Point north-eaft \ diftance off " lhore about a mile and a half; the ground tolerably good. Cafcade " Bay is a very good road in the ftrong fouth-weft wind, and very tc fmooth water; the landing is eafy, as is the accefs to the iiland. As « the ebb goes very ftrong nine hours to the eaftward, the moft con- " venient place for anchoring off Sydney Bay, on account of the boats, *< is, with the body of Nepean's Ifle eaft-north-eaft half eaft, or eaft " by north; the flag-ftaff* north-north-eaft half eaft, Point Rofs north- " weft by weft, and the weft end of Phillip Ifle fouthvfouth-eaft nine- " teen fathoms ; but here the ground Is rocky: the beft anchoring is with . I* the middle of Nepean Ifle eaft-north-eaft half eaft, the weft end of " Phillip Ifle fouth by eaft, the outermoft breaker off Point Rofs " north-weft by weft half weft, the flag-ftaff north by eaft. half,eaft", X.x " and. * and Collins's Head north-eaft by eaft half eaft, feventeen fathom? ' clear ground. '< The tides round the ifland are very ftrong, and from the obferva-' tions I have been able to make, and the difficulty we always found in ' the Supply of getting from Cafcade Bay round to Sydney Bay, (which i ever end of the iftand we tried at) I have every reafon to believe that « the flood fets fouth-fo uth -weft, and the ebb north-north-eaft: it * flows about feven o'clock all round the ifland: now as the ebb runs * nine hours north-north-eaft, it ftrikes directly againft Rocky Point, which divides the tide, the eaftern part runs with rapidity through ;< the iflands, and then relumes its former courfe of north-north-eaft : the other part goes north-north-weft paft Anfon Bay, round the weft * end of the ifland, and then north-north-eaft; fo that in coming ;* from the north fide of the ifland (unlefs the wind gives aflant) you :t have the tide right a-head which-ever end of the ifland you attempt (t to get round. As to the flood it runs but three hours, and with little " ftrength." The mafter of the Golden Grove's obfervations, wnich I requeued him to communicate to me, are as follow :—** The flood comes directly " from the fouth-eaft, ftrikes in with Ball Bay, and fets up through " between the iflands : the other part, as it divides itfelf, fets round the '* north-eaft part of the ifland ; fo that a lhjp coming round from Caf-" cade Bay, can never work up with the wind to the fouthward and M weftward, as both tides take her directly on the weather bow. From *< what I have feen of Ball Bay, I by no means like it j my reafon is, it " is a bay that a flap can never get out of with an in-blowing wind, and " I do not think it a fafe one to ride in : the Cafcade Bay I give much " the f* the preference to, as it can hardly happen but a (hip can get to fea chap " on one tack or another, and ride in very fmooth water at anchor. I (c could load the Golden Grove very well with timber or mafts, taking " the advantage of the winds in Cafcade and Sydney bays." xiii. 1788. Oftober. As I was very much in want of a carpenter, a man who had been difcharged from the Sirius, and was on' board the Golden Grove as a failor, offered to remain on the ifland on any terms, but I could make no agreement with him, not being impowercd to take any ftep of that kind j I therefore informed him, that if he chofe to remain he muft take it on himfelf: this he with great readinefs confented to, and I found him a great acquifition. The Golden Grove failed for Port Jackfon on the 29th. 3^ As an encouragement to the convidts who came by the Golden Grove, I gave them from the time of their landing until the 30th to 3©. build houfes for themfelves, and to clear away a little garden ground. The huts were very foon built, being compofed of logs, and thatched with bullrufhes and fiaggs, which made them very comfortable; and as a farther encouragement, I gave fome of them (who had the beft characters) permiflion to build their houfes in the vale, and to clear away • ground near them for their own ufe. X x 2 The chap. The fettlement now confifted of the following perfons, viz. xjil to r Mr. Stephen Dunnavan, midftiipman of the Sirius - i oaobcr. Mf' Thomas Jamiefon, furgeon's firft mate of ditto i Mr. John Altree, afliftant-furgeon i Roger Morley, Robert Webb, Thomas Webb, feamen belonging to ditto ------ 3 John Livington, carpenter, late belonging to ditto i Serjeant, corporal, fix private marines - - 8 16 free, Male convicts - - - - - - 29 Female convicts - - - - - - 17 The total number, befides two children, 62 Soon after the departure of the Golden Grove, I made public the following extract from Governor Phillip's letter to me:—" You will " return any marine, convict, or other perfon, with whofe conduct you " are not fatisfied ; and you are at liberty to permit thofe, whofe good " behaviour merits the indulgence, to work one day in the week on " lots of land, one or two acres of ground to a convict, which you will " .caufe to be pointed out for that purpofe, and which they may con-" fider as their own property while they behave well ; after the time " for which they are fentenced may expire, lands will be granted them, " if they wifli to remain as fet tiers, and you may give them fuch part " of the public ftock to breed from, as you may judge proper, forbid-*' ding any perfon on the iiland ever to fell any fowl, hog, or any other " animal, without having firft obtained your permiftion; and you are " not to permit the killing of any live ftock until you have a fufficient f* quantity on the ifland for your fupport, except in cafes of ficknefs. " You 88. " You will make the report to me, when opportunity offers, of fuch chap. x 11 f who are not convicts, and who are defirous of fettling on the ifland; and you are at liberty to permit them to cultivate ground for their 178 own benefit, not exceeding ten acres to any one perfon ; they will November' receive the indulgence of fuch part of the live ftock as you may judge neceflary to give them, but neither fettler, nor any other perfon on the ifland, is to be at liberty to kill any animal without having obtained your permiflion. Hereafter, grants will be made to thofe who wifli to remain on the ifland, of a larger extent of ground." During the month of November, the weather was very warm, except four days, when we had ftrong gales of wind from the fouthward, which made it as cold as winter. On the 14th, I planted about thirty rod of ground with Indian corn : fome which had been planted in September was now five feet high, and the wheat grew fo very rank that I was obliged to crop it. I went out in the coble on the 22d, and founded between Point Hunter and Nepean Ifle : there is a good channel, and there are not lefs than three fathoms clofe to Point Hunter; and on the north fide of Nepean Ifle in mid-channel, there are eight fathoms water. On the 29th, I landed on Nepean Iiland, and found it to confift entirely of one mafs of fand, held together by the furrounding cliffs, which are a border of hard rocks: notwithstanding; there was not the leaft appearance of earth or mould on the ifland, yet there were upwards of two hundred very fine pines growing on it; the furface was covered With a kind of coarfe grafs. The The weather being now very hot, I changed the working hours, and gave the labourers from half paft ten o'clock until half paft twelve, to avoid the heat of the fun : they were employed in clearing ground for cultivation, making mingles, cutting a road from the fettlement to Ball Bay, and reaping wheat and barley. The heat of the fun fplit the weather boarding with which my houfe was covered j and it being very leaky, I fet the carpenters and fawyers to work to put a new roof on, and to raife the houfe five feet, in order to make room for flores and provifions. At day-light in the morning of the 2d of December, I went in the coble to Phillip Ifle, where I landed on a rock, in a fmall bay on the north fide. It was with difficulty that I afcended the firft hills, which were covered with a fharp long grafs that cut like a knife; this was in-terfperfed with brufhwood. The foil is a light red earth, and was fo full of holes, which had been made by the birds, that walking was very laborious. A fmall valley runs the whole length of the ifland, in which, and on fome of the hills, a few pines grow, but I think the whole ifland does not produce more than one hundred and fifty. 1 found no frefli water on the ifland, but probably there may be fome, as I faw a number of hawks, pigeons, and parrots -y but as I had only two convi&s to row the boat, I left the iiland, and got to Sydney Bay in the evening.- On the 8th, I houfed all the barley which had been raifed on an acre ©f ground, and was fown in June and July. During the firft of its growth, it had a moft promifing appearance, but when the ear was fliot and nearly filled, fome heavy rains in September laid a great part of it down, and the quantity deftroyed by the rats and quails was almoft in-o, credible: credible: there was every profpect of getting at leaft fifty bufhels of crap. grain, but the whole quantity, when gleaned, yielded only ten bufhels. u XUI. The barley was very fine, and 116 ears were produced from one grain. '7s8* Garden vegetables throve very well, and cabbages were cut weighing Dcc-rabcr' twenty-fix pounds each. I have no doubt but potatoes would thrive very well here; unfortunately, we had only two fets on the ifland, which were brought by the Golden Grove. Moft of the marines and convicts had now very good gardens, but the grub-worm was a great and perpetual enemy to their vegetables. It has already been obferved, that 26,0 plants of wheat were tranf-planted the beginning of June; thefe were threfhed on the 15th, and r$. the produce was three quarts of a very fine full grain. The weather often was very favourable for landing in Sydney-Bay, and the boat was frequently fent out; but the furf often rofe prefently afterwards which made it dangerous for her to come on fhore, fo that ^he was obliged to go to Ball Bay, and men were fent from the fettlement to haul her up, which occafioned a great lofs of time : I therefore refolved to fend Mr. Altree, who was a very trufty young man, a gardener, and one convict:, together with three women to remain there, as they would not only cultivate the ground in the valley, but would, at all times, be ready to ailift in hauling the boat up. This party went to Ball-Bay on the 18th, where they found landing ,j, as fme as could be wiihed, though the furf ran very high in Sydney-Bay j the wind being at fouth, and blowing hard. Some CHAP. Some wheat was reaped on the 22d, which had been fown on the XIll. Uth of Auguft : the grain was very full and fine, but as it was fown late the ftock was not fo fine as might have been exoected. The 25th, being Chriftmas-day, it was obferved as a holyday. The colours were hoifted at fun-rife : I performed divine fervice ; the officers dined with me, and I gave each of the convicts half a pint of rum, and double allowance of beef, to celebrate the feftival : the evening concluded with bonfires, which confifted of large piles of wood, that had been previoufly collected for the occafion. Spring-tides were now at .26. the height, and I fent every perfon on the 26th to Ball-Bay to make the cut deeper, and to clear away forne ftones which were wafhed into it. The wheat which was fown the latter end of Auguft, was reaped 19. on the 29th, and the Indian corn was nearly fit for the fickle. '7S9- I now bej^an to perceive a very great difference between the work January. done fince the arrival of the convicts by the Golden-Grove, and what was done before, in proportion to our numbers; the reafon was, that when the number of convicts was increafed, I had not perfons furficient to overlook them and keep them at work : I therefore adopted the plan of talking them 3 for which purpofe I confulted thofe whom I thought conversant in the different employments that were carrying on \ and their opinions, added to what I had obferved myfelf, determined me to fix the different tafks as follow, with which they were all contented. Six men were to cut the timber down on an acre of ground in one week: fix men to clear away and turn up an acre of ground fit for receiving feed, in twenty-eight days : two lawyers to faw one hundred feet of rawing each day. At thefe talks the convicts would have an opportunity of faying time to themfelves j and, as that time was to be employed employed in clearing gardens and ground to cultivate for their own ufe, what was thus faved from the public work would not be loft to fociety ; although it was to be feared that fome would pafs their time in idlenefs. Having fix mufquets on the ifland, exclufive of the marines arms, I thought it neceffary to inftnift the few free perfons I had (which were fix) in the ufe of fire-arms, in cafe the marines fliould be fick, or any other exigency ihouid happen ; I therefore gave orders to Mr. Dunavan to exercife them every Saturday morning ; and the ferjeant was to exercife the marines at the fame time, or oftcner: I intended that the former, after they were a little expert, fhould fire half a dozen rounds once a month. I went in the boat on the 5th, and examined the north and well fide of the iiland, which I found every where unrounded by perpendicular cliffs. I landed on the beach in Anfon's-Bay, where I found the remains of a canoe, which had been wafhed there by the tide ; a very good cocoa-nut was alfo found. This beach is very fmall, and appeared to be a mere quickfand ; there is no frefli water near it, and the bay is furrounded by fleep hills, on which there grows a quantity of the flax-plant. The 8th ufhered a male child into the world, and as he was the firft born on the ifland, he was baptized by the name of Norfolk. At noon on the 15th, parties were fent out in fearch of the cockfwain of the coble, who had loft himfelf in the woods, as he was returning from Ball-Bay, where the boat had been hauled up the preceding day at fun-fet : he was found on the 18th, naked and almoll exhausted, info-much that he was obliged to be carried to the fettlement, having Y y received chap, received feveral deep cuts and bruifes which rendered him incapable of XIII. r i • u—v—-f getting out of his bed for fome time. j.789. January. Thomas Watts, a convict, was punifhed with twenty-four lafhes, on* J9« the 19th, for contemptuoufly refufing to work, and being abufive to the corporal of marines, who reprimanded him for not going to work with the reft of the convicts. The weather, during this month, was very fine and fettled, and the 22. wind northerly until the 22d; from which time to the end of the month, wc had conftant heavy rain, without an hour's interval of dry weather : fuch a continuance of rainy weather 1 never heard of, and it was frequently attended with heavy gales of wind from the north-eaft. In confequence of fome irregularities which had happened, I found. 23' it neceffary to affemble all the free people on the 23d, and to read the M' articles of war. The next day, Robert Webb, a feaman belonging to the Sirius, but who was employed as a gardener on the ifland, came to< me, and fignified a wifli to fpeak with me in private, which being granted, he informed me that a plan had been concerted among the convicts, to furprize me, with the reft of the officers, marines, and free people ; and to poffefs themfelves of the public ftores, and afterwards to endeavour to furprize the Supply, or any other veflel that might come here, and make their efcape from the iiland. On my interrogating him, he faid that Elizabeth Anderfon, a female convict, who. lived with him, had given him this information the day before, and on. his doubting the truth of what fhe advanced, fhe offered to convince him of the truth of her affertion, by bringing him within hearing of a. convict whom fhe would entice to relate the plan ; which being agreed to NORFOLK ISLAND, to by Webb, this morning (the 23d.) Elizabeth Anderfon invited William chap x Iil Francis (a convict) into the hut, to drink a dram, when he related the 1-r-^j circumstances of the plan, and how it was to be carried into execution ; 1789. Webb being at this time hid from the view of Francis, by a piece of Januar* tent which was hung before the bed he lay in. As I thought it neceffary to fubftantiate this information, I caufed Robert Webb and Elizabeth Anderfon to be kept apart, and took their depositions on oath feparately, both of which perfectly agreed in every particular, and were in fubflancc as follow : " That yefterday (the 22d.) between nine in the morning and noon, '< Elizabeth Anderfon being warning, fhe fighed, when William Francis, ' who flood near her, afked what fhe fighed for ; fhe anfwered, fhe ' was very low ; William Francis then afked her, if fhe could get her * liberty, whether fhe would leave Webb, and on her faying yes, he ' faid, the firft fhip that comes here, except the Sirius, we will every ' man and woman have our liberty, to which we were all fworn laft ' Saturday and we (the convicts) would have had it already, if the ' Sirius was not the firft fhip expected, and the day that Watts was * Jloggcd was intended to have been the day for making Mr. King and ' the free people prifoners." Francis added, " that it was propofed to * take the Golden-Grove on her paffage, as they (the convicts) were :* all for it, except one man, and he was the forwarder!: in the prefent f plot. Robert Webb appearing, put an end to this converfation; * and Elizabeth Anderfon repeated to Webb all that pafled between her and Francis : on Robert Webb's fufpecting the flory being an invention of hers; they agreed that he fhould lie concealed in the bed, which had a curtain made of a piece of tent, while fhe fliould endeavour to draw from Francis a fuller account of the plan laid by Y y 2 " him him and the reft of the convicts; and this morning (the 23d.) at day-light, Robert Webb being ftill in bed, Elizabeth Anderfon.get up, and on feeing Francis near the hut, ftie wifhed him the ' good morrow,' and informed him that Webb was gone to town to grind his tools j flic then faid, * come Bill, fit down and drink a little rum, it will do us both good, and drink to the boys of the fhip that will take us from this place :' to which health they both drank. Elizabeth Anderfon then afked Francis how long it was fmcc they (the convicts) had planned the fcheme; he faid they were all fworn on this Saturday month paft, at Thompfon's, in the vale, excepting Widdicomc and Rice, (convict rope-makers,) who were Mr, King's right-hand men, and therefore not to be trufted : Lucas (the convict carpenter) had not been afked, but they were fure he would be on their fide, when they (the convicts) got the day: Francis continued faying, ' I'll tell you how it is to be done ; the whole is left to my management, and the beft time will be the firft Saturday after the arrival of any other veflel than the Sirius. Moft of the marines and free people will be a-cabbaging *, and as Mr. King generally goes to the farm twice a day, in his abfence I will ftep into his houfe and hand out the arms -f to my men ; then I will go out and take Mr. King, and after that the other officers, and what marines are in camp, and the reft as they come in from cabbaging : we will then put them all in irons, two and two together, when they will be as helplefs as bees. We 1 will then make the fignal for a boat, and when fhe lands, we'll nab * the boat's crew ; then fend the coble off with Mr. King's compli-' ments, and requeft another boat may be fent to carry off plank, as * the firft boat was ftove, and the coble could not carry luggage : when. * Getting the wood-csbbages. i 'fhe marines arms were kept in my houfe. a " the fecond boat comes, the people belonging to it will be nabbed, and c H a P. " the two boats with the coble will be filled with our people (the t " convicts) and the women, and take poffeffion of the ihip. Three of '789- " the failors might remain, if they were willing, and one officer fhould Januar-V" ¥ be kept to navigate the fhip j the reft of the officers and fhip's com- " pany will be left on Nepean or Phillip-Ifland, with the coble, from " whence they might go to Norfolk-Ifland and liberate the commandant. " Elizabeth Anderfon then expreffed her wifhes that it might fucceed,. '? and Francis left her." The taking Webb and Anderfon's depositions, and interrogating them, took up two hours j and it being Saturday, moft of the convicts were out getting cabbages : there was a poflibility that the accufation againft William Francis might be an invention j yet, having received that information, it became neceflary to ufe every precaution againft a furprize ; I therefore ordered a constant guard of three privates, to be commanded by Mr. Dunavan, the ferjeant, and corporal, and a guard-houfe was built between my houfe and the furgeon's, in which the provifions and ftores were deposited. The ftorc-houfe occupied by the marines, I removed from the water fide nearer to my houfe. Every perfon, without exception, was ordered to live in the town, or camp, and I recalled the party who had been fent to Ball-Bay. Being ftill defirous to obtain fuller proof the criminality of the parties concerned in this diabolical fcheme, 1 defired Meffrs. Dunavan and Jamiefon to watch the return of John Bryant, a convict, who had always behaved very well: they were to interrogate him reflecting the plan laid by the convicts, and to affure him of a pardon, if he would difcover all he knew. I alfo fent to the houfe of William Thompfon, in the Vale, to fearch for any written agreement that might have been drawn up, but none was found; however,. chap, ever, the perfons employed in this fearch found a quantity of Indian com XIII. <.—in a cheffc in Thompfon's houfe, which, from its not being quite hard, J7S<> muff have been stolen from the King's grounds in Arthur's Vale, as there was no other on the ifland. The next ftep I took was to order William Francis, John Thompfon, Samuel Picket, and Jofhua Peck to be taken into custody, on their return from cabbaging. ' Meffrs. Dunavan and Jamiefon met John Bryant, and perfuaded him to difcover all he knew about the plot; prefently afterwards, they brought him before me, when he was fworn on the crofs, being a catholic, and I took his depofition; the fubftance of which was as follows : *■ That on the paffage from Port Jackfon to Norfolk-Ifland it was " talked among the convicts to take the Golden-Grove tranfport from the officers and crew and run away with her, and on its being propofed *f to Bryant he faid they could be only fools to think of fuch a thing. " That in going out to work on the 14th of this month with all the convicts, Samuel Picket remarked how cafy it would be to take the " ifland, by making the commandant prifoner, when going to, or re-" turning from the farm in Arthur's Vale; after which, coming in and " feizing the arms, and making prifoners of the marines and other free " people. It was foon after agreed that the reft of the convicts were ?' to be confulted, and if they were willing, a meeting was to be " held at John Thompfon's houfe in the Vale; Samuel Picket and Jofhua Peck being inmates of his." The remainder of Bryant's depofition, reflecting how the ifland was to be taken, agreed in every particular with the tcftimony of Elizabeth Anderfon and Robert Webb. 1 I next Januaj j, NORFOLK ISLAND. $5x I next fent for Tofhua Peck, and examined him on oath, and after chap. XIII. much prevarication, he gave nearly the fame account how the bufinefs'.-v—j was to be conducted as the others had done, except as to the manner »789-how the officers were to be made prifoners, which was, " that after * they had fecured me, they were to go to Mr. Dunavan's houfe at 04 the entrance of the vale, and take him and conduct: him to the farm, " where we were to be tied back to back ; after which, one of the " convicts was to be fent in with a meffage as from me, to fpeak with " the furgeon, ferjeant of marines, and the reft, and they were to be *' fecured one by one as they came out." To Bryant and Peck, I put the two following queftions, telling them, that as their depofitions and examination would be fent to the Governor, it was neceffary that they, recollected the nature of the oath they had taken, and to give a juft anfwer. Question.—Can you aflign any reafon for the aforefaid plot being formed ? Anfwer.—None, but the hopes of regaining our liberty. Question.—Have you at any time heard any convidt on the ifland exprefs any difcontent at the conduct of officers, or on any other ground ? Anfwer.—None. It was now clear to me that a fcheme. had been entered into, in which all the convicts were concerned, except the rope-makers and carpenter already mentioned j and their fucceeding in it, fo far as regarded the taking myfelf and the officers prifoners was not to be doubted ; for, I muft own, that I was not fufficiently upon my guard againft the defcription of people I had to deal with; as the apparent fatisfaction which they often expreffed at being on this ifland in preference to Port Jackfon, added to the great indulgences they had frequently received from me, lulled any fufpicion of their having the mo ft diftant idea of the kind. The fecond part of their plan, viz. that Off taking any fhip which might come to the iiland, was very doubtful fcut had the firft fucceeded, the dclt ruction of thz provifions and stores would. C n a p. would have followed; and it is difficult to fay what fatal confequcnces v—would have enfued from the drunken ftate they would have been in i7s9- whilft the rum lafted : indeed, I muft in juftice to them obferve, that January, ^ fmguinary meafures were thought of; on the contrary, they propofed good treatment to myfelf and the free people ; but how far that intention would have been obferved by a fet of men of their description, when in a ftate of drunken madnefs, may eafily be conceived. I ordered Samuel Picket and William Francis to wear irons, and the 25. next day (Sunday), after prayers, I addrefted the convicts, and pointed out to them the abfurdity of their plan, admitting they had made themfelves mafters of a veffel. I endeavoured to convince them of the advantages they enjoyed on this iiland, where nothing but induftry was requiiite to infure them a happy and comfortable livelihood; after which, I exhorted them to let their future conduct wipe away the prefent impropriety of their behaviour : thofe who diftinguifhed themfelves by a regular, honeft, and induftrious line of conduct, I promifed to countenance and encourage, whilft thofe of a contrary defcription were fure to be made fevere and dreadful examples of. I likewife cautioned them againft ftealing and plundering the grounds and gardens; alluring them that they would be feverely punifhed on detection. Having finifhed my addrefs to the convicts, I caufed the following orders to be read, in addition to thofe which were before made public for the prefervation of order. • " The commandant ftrictly forbids any officer, foldier, free perfon, or convict, male or female, ever abfenting themfelves from the camp or town for ten minutes together, without having firft obtained leave from the the officer charged with the guard, who will obtain the commandant's CHAP XIII leave, if he fliould think fit to grant it. The officer of the guard will * '_j» take an account of the names of thofe who are abfent on leave, on a ' Collate, which will be kept in the guard-houfe for that purpofe. January Every perfon returning from that leave, is to acquaint the officer of the guard of their return. Every convict, who is obferved to go over the hill to the farm, without having obtained leave, or going to work there, will be fired at by the centincl. The convicts, and not more than three together, are to build houfes for themfelves, at their leifure hours, in fuch places as will be pointed out. No perfon for the future will be fuffered to live out of the camp- John Thompfon and Samuel Pickett are difpoifeffed of their garden-ground, in confequence of their ill behaviour. Though I had not the moil diftant reafon to fufpect any free perfon whatever, of being in the leaft difafTected, yet I judged it neceffary to finifh this affair by administering the oaths of allegiance and fidelity to the officers, marines, and free people individually, in the prefence of the convicts. The theft of the Indian corn being fully proved, on the 26th,. I ordered William Thompfon to be punifhed with fifty lafhes; and Thomas Jones, another convict, was punifhed with thirty-fix lafhes, for abufe and infolence to Meftieurs Jamiefon and Dunavan. The whole of the convicts were now employed in cutting down trees, and clearing Z z ther chap, the ground near the houfes, in order to give more room for building XIII. *--*-1 others. 1789. February. As the rains were very violent, and feemed to be fet in, and the heat of the weather had made much of our Indian corn to fhoot out, I began gathering that which was fown in September. Jofeph Long, a convict, was punifhed with twelve lafhes on the 28th, for quitting his work and abfenting himfelf without leave. The month of February commenced with heavy gales of wind and deluges of rain, which greatly damaged the Indian corn, and different plants that were feeding. The fmall patch of barley which was cut on the 20th of laft month, was quite fpoiled by the conftant rain, and the fwamp was entirely overflowed. On the 6th, we had a very heavy gale of wind from the northward, attended with lightning, which was the firft I had feen fince my arrival on the ifland. Two convicts were punifhed on the 9th, for abfenting themfelves after ten o'clock at night from their quarters, with a bad intention. The 15th, being Sunday, after performing divine fervice, and reading the orders, I forgave the prifoners, Samuel Pickett and William Francis, for their ill behaviour in the affair of the plot; but it was my intention to fend Francis to Port Jackfon the firft opportunity, as he was a worthlefs, troublefome villain. The heavy rains had now in a great meafure fubfided, and the weather on the 16th being fair*, we embraced that opportunity of examining the provifions which were flowed in the cellars. On getting up the ground tier of flour cafks from under the furgeon's houfe, I found a quantity of water had lodged amongft them ; and although they were well dun- naged naged, yet we found many of the cafks much damaged, and the flour ct,ap. in them fpoiled; but the quantity loft could not immediately be afcer-tained: however, it was of the utmoft confcquence to have the whole overlooked, and every perfon was employed till the 21ft in cleaning the flour and feparating the damaged part of it from that which was dry and in good condition. i789. February. 222 CHAPTER CHAPTER XIV. A violent hurricane aft Norfolk Ifland.—Arrival of the Supply.—Convicts fent from Port Jackfon.—Provifions and fores.—Departure of the Supply.—Robberies committed.—Employment of the convicts.—Wheat infefed with caterpillars.—A fore-houfe erected.—Arrival of a party of marines from Port Jackfon.—Thefts committed.-—Orders read for prcferving regularity .—A female convict punifhed.—Pernicious effects of the grub-worm. —Gardens plundered.—A granary erected*—Wheat defrayed by paroquets.—Number of inhabitants on the if and, CHAP. fpVHE interval of fine weather, which gave us an opportunity of XIV.' T wv-^ examining the ftate of our provifions, and cleaning the damaged ,?89* flour, was fucceeded by a hurricane that was dreadful beyond defcrip- lebruary. 2S. tion. In the morning of the 25th, we had light winds from the north-eaft, and very difmal, dark, cloudy weather, with conftant torrents of heavy rain : towards noon, the wind blew a heavy gale, and kept increasing in violence. At midnight, it ftiifted to eaft-fouth-eaft, and blew with great fury, attended with conftant deluges of rain. At four l6t o'clock the next morning feveral of the largeft pines were blown up by the roots, one of which fell on the hog-ftye and killed a very fine Engliih fow and a litter of feven pigs that were my property, and three Tows and two boars belonging to the crown. This was a fevere lofs to young young colonics, but a ftill worfe accident afterwards happened, and chap. Which had nearly deprived us of our flour. From four in the morning until noon, the wind increafed to a very fevere hurricane, with the heavier! rain I ever faw or heard of. Pines, and oak-trees of the largeft fize, were blown down every inflant; the roots were torn up, together with rocks that furrounded them; frequently leaving pits at leafl ten feet deep. Some of the very large trees, which meafured 180 feet in length, and four feet diameter, were thrown by the violence of the temper! to a confiderable diftance from the place where they grew; and others, whofe roots were too deep in the earth to be torn up, bent their tops nearly to the ground. In addition to the horror of this fcene, a very large tree fell acrofs the granary and dallied it to pieces, (laving a number of flour cafks that were in it j but by the general activity of every perfon on the fettlement, the flour, Indian corn, and flores were in a fhort time collected, and removed to my houfe, with the lofs of a few pounds of flour and fome fmall flores that Were blown away. The gale now raged with the mofl violent fury, which defies all defcription : whole forefls feemed, as it were, fwept away by the roots, and many of the trees were carried to a confiderable diftance. By one o'clock in the afternoon, there were as many trees blown down round the fettlement as would have employed fifty men for a fortnight to cut down. The fwamp and the adjoining vale were overflowed, and had every appearance of a large, navigable river: the furf ran mountains high, but did not overflow the bank, although very near l*s level: in the road, the fea ran very high, often eclipfing Nepean Jfle. At two in the afternoon, the gardener, two convict men, and one woman, v/ho lived in the vale, came to the fettlement, having narrowly efcaped t789. February, chap, efcaped with their lives from the falling of trees, and great depth of A1V. V——J water in many parts of the valley; and their houfes, which had been 'J 9' built and framed with ftrong logs, were blown down. Three acres of ground that had recently been cleared were almoft covered with trees : every thing in the gardens was nearly deftroyed, and an acre of Indian corn, which was in a promifing ftate, and nearly fit for reaping, was laid flat and covered with water four feet deep; nay, incredible as it may appear, the violence of the wind blew up cabbages, turnips, and other vegetables by the roots; and what remained in the gardens were turned as black as if they had been burnt. At three o'clock, the wind veered round to fouth, and moderated, and at fun-fet, the weather was very pleafant.. It was a providential circumftance that the difcovery of the plot (as has already been related) happened previous to this dreadful florm, as* on that account, the convicts had altogether been employed in cutting, down large trees round the fettlement, to make room for building other houfes: had not this been done, our houfes would probably have been deftroyed and many lives loft, as we had no afylum or retreat whatever: fortunately, however, only one man was hurt; he received a violent contuflon on his right fide by the branch of a tree falling on him. There was no appearance on any part of the ifland of fuch a ftorm having ever happened before. During the remainder of the month we had very pleafant weather ; the wind at fouth-weft, but a heavy furf kept ftill running. On the 2d of March, at day-light, we faw the Supply in the road;, on which I fent Mr. Dunavan on board her: he foon returned, bringing letters for me from Governor Phillip, who, I learnt, had fent- twenty- Mirch. 2. twenty-one 'men and fix women convicts, with three children in chap. xiv the Supply, to be landed on this iiland. As- I had the fulled confidence u—v-^j in the few free perfons who were with me, I did not hefitate one mo- 17891 March. ment in receiving the additional number of convicts who were now arrived, although fome of them had very bad characters. By the Supply I alfo received a bufhel of potatoes, and fome feed-wheat and barley, that had been faved at Port Jackfon j and in the courfe of the day, all the convicts and the greated part of the provifions and dores were landed. One turn of provifions were got on fliore early the next morning, but 3„ the furf increafing, no more boats pafled that day. Landing was very practicable on the 4th, and we received the re- 4* mainder of the provifions and ftores; alfo two three-pounders and their carriages belonging to the Supply, which fhould have been landed when I firft came to the ifland, but were prevented by the furf. Tiie furf ran fo high on the 5th, that no boats could land : at two o'clock the r. Supply parted her cable, and ftood off and on during the night. The Supply's boats were employed during the 6th, in fweeping for her 5, anchor, as no landing could be attempted; but the furf abating on the 7th, we received every article on fliore that was intended for the 7, fettlement. I now ordered the furgeon to examine all the convicts who had lately arrived, in order to difcover if any of them were infected with difcafes, or troubled with complaints of any kind ; but on examination, he found them all healthy. The Supply having ineffectually fwept for her anchor till the morning of the 10th, flie made fail for Fort Jackfon at ten o'clock in the fore- 1 noon. CHAP. noon. The ground in the road off Sydney-Bay is very foul in general, v~^> although there may be fome clear fpots. The Golden-Grove parted «73(> her cable in the road, but regained her anchor, which the Supply was MiiIQb' not lucky enough to accomplifh; and fhe had the additional misfortune of nearly ruining two new cables in fweeping for it. It is fomewhat remarkable, that the beach in Sydney-Bay has at times five feet of fand on the flones, and at other times it is all cleared away: this has happened when the wind has been at fouth-eafl, and when the beach was filled with find, the wind has been at fouth-weft: this probably may be the cafe in the road. I gave the convicts who were newly arrived until the 18th, to build habitations for themfelves; the others were employed at tafk-work. The numbers now on the ifland were as follows, viz. Officers, marines, and free men, — 16 Male convicts, — 50 Female convicts, — — 23 Children, — — — 5 Total — 94 In order to prevent the water from overflowing the cultivated grounds in the upper part of Arthur's Vale, I fet eight labourers to work 19. on the 19th, in cutting a water-way of fixty rods long, by fix feet deep. I have hitherto forborn mentioning the numerous thefts that had al-mofl daily been committed; and, notwithftanding the utmofl vigilance, we bad not been able to detect: any perfon. Gardens had been conftantly plundered; the harnefs cafk, containing the provifions that were daily 2 iifued iffued out, had been robbed; and one night an attempt was made to get into the upper part of my houfe, where the flops were depoiited. Great rewards had been offered to tempt one or other to difcover their accomplices, but without effect.: however, at eleven o'clock in the night of the 23d, Thomas Watfon, a convict, was detected in another convict's houfe, ftealing a bag of flour. From the number of daring thefts which had been committed, without my being able to fix on the thief, it became neceffary to inflict a very fevere punifliment on this offender 5 and as I had no authority to give him any very fevere corporal chaftifement; after examining witneflcs upon oath, and fully proving the theft, I ordered him into confinement, with an intention of fending him to Port Jackfon to take his trial, hi order to prevent thefe depredations as much as poflible in future, I gave orders for the convicts to be muftered in their huts three times every •night, and the hour of mufter to be conftantly changed: this had a good effect, but did not entirely prevent robberies from being committed. James Davis, a convict, was punifhed with twenty-four lafhes, on the 2Sth, for ufing feditious exprefllons, and throwing away fome fifh which had been iffued, in a contemptuous manner. On infpecting the feed-wheat, I found the weevil had begun its depredations, on which, I fet fome of the labourers to winnow and clear it. On the 30th, fome atrocious villain ftabbed one of the hogs belonging to the crown, which occafioned its death : this, amongft many other actions which happened, of a fimilar nature, ferved to fhew that there are wretches equal to any act of inhumanity and barbarity. 3 A The March. 31 CHAP. The fugar-cane, which I planted foon after my arrival on the ifland, XIV. r , v._y--j being in a very expofed fituation, I removed it on the 31 ft, and planted '789* out 106 very good joints, which were produced from only four canes. The Indian corn, that had been damaged by the hurricane, was reaped this afternoon. The different employments of the convicts were as follows : At tafk-work, clearing away ground for cultivation, 30 Sawyers, fawing boards, for building a flore-houfe, 2 2 free. Carpenters, building a flore-houfe, — — 2 1 free. Blackfmith, making fifti-hooks, and other neceflary work, 1 1 free. Coble-men riffling, — — — 3 Gardeners, — — — 31 free> Making fhingles, — — — 4 Schoolmafler, 1 officers fervants, 3 -> care of flock, 1, 5 Total 50 5 April. On the 2d of April, three quarters of an acre of ground was fown with wheat, the produce of that ground which had been firft cleared on the north fide of Mount George. The feafon for fowing wheat was as yet rather early, but I did it to try different periods, and to fee which would anfwer beft. £ On the 5th, (Sunday) after divine fervice, Thomas Jones, a convict, acquainted me that the term of his tranfportation expired that day. I had been informed by Governor Phillip that the different terms for which the convicts were fentenccd was not known, as the mafters of the tranfports had left the papers neceflary for that information with their April. their owners; but that he had wrote to England for them, and until chap. xiv. their arrival no fteps could be taken, as the convicts words were not fufficient: I therefore informed Thomas Jones that he was at liberty to work for whom he pleafed, and if he chofe to work for the public good, he would be ufed the fame as others were, until I received further orders concerning him. An acre of ground, in Arthur's Vale, was fown with wheat on the 6th ; and on the 8th, Noah Mortimer, a convict, was punifhed with 6, s, •fixty lathes, for refuiing to work, on being ordered by the overfeer, and being abulive. The 10th, being Good-Friday, I performed divine 10. fervice, and no work was done on the fettlement. On the 13th, three acres of wheat were fown with four buthels of 13* feed. Every garden vegetable, now growing, were much blighted by welt and fouth-weft winds; indeed, this was a very improper time to fow any garden feeds, it being the commencement of winter; but the potatoes I had by me grew out fo very fait, that I was obliged to fow them all. I had found the laft year that June and July were the beft months for fowing the general crop. Wc had a very heavy gale of wind this day from the fouth-weft, which was the firft foutherly wind that had blown with any degree of force fince laft Auguft; and the laft year, the foutherly winds did not begin until the 1 oth of April; from which I conclude that foutherly and wefterly winds are not frequent in the fummer; efpecially as we had not one gale from that quarter during the lait fummer. Three acres of wheat were fown in Arthur's vale on the 16th, and is> hy the 21 it eight acres of wheat were up, and had a promifing appearance. tu 1 A 2 As As there was a projection of the reef where boats ufed to land, which, if taken away, would greatly lelfen the danger of landing ; I fet fix men to work about removing it on the 2 2d, with orders to continue at the employment every tide until it was finifhed. Notwithstanding every convict: had fuffered exemplary punifhment for their crimes, whenever they were detected; yet this was not fufficient to keep the free people in proper fubordination ; for on the 26th, John Williams, a marine, quitted his guard, and raifed a quarrel in a convict's houfe; the confequence of which was a battle between himfelf and another marine : on which, I affembled the marines and all the other free people underarms, under the flag-ftaff, on which the colours were hoifted; and I punifhed him with twenty-four lafhes, for quitting his port, and fighting with his comrade. I obferved on the 7th of May, that all the wheat which hitherto hod a very fine appearance, was blighted in many places, and particularly where it was.thinneft fown : on examining it, I found it entirely covered with a fmall black caterpillar, which had eat off the items within an inch of the ground: thefe destructive vermin kept on the wheat during the whole month; they began on the lower part of the eight acres that were fown in Arthur's Vale, and proceeded regularly through it, destroying every blade. We tried various methods to extirpate them, fuch as rolling the wheat with a heavy roller, and beating it with turf-beaters, in order to kill them, but with little effect; for in an hour's time they were as numerous as ever, and daily increafed in fize. I found they were bred from a fmall moth, vaft numbers of which infefted the air in the mornings and evenings : the number of thefe caterpillars on the wheat was incredible; and they were fo thick in the gardens that we fwept fwept them in heaps : the adjoining rivulet was alfo covered with them, chap, XIV. The whole wheat of eight acres (which was a foot high when thefe e—— pernicious vermin firft attacked it) was eat clofe to the ground by the I?88* 28th, and three acres of it never grew afterwards. Having gone through the gardens and wheat, thefe destructive infects left us on the 29th. The carpenters had now finifhed the new flore-houfe : its dimensions were thirty feet long by eighteen feet wide, and ten feet under the eaves : the fides were covered with weather boarding, and the roof was fhingled. I ordered the provifions to be brought from my houfe and from the furgeon's, and deposited in the new ilore-houfe : the flores were alfo removed, and lodged there. The 4th of June, being the anniversary of his Majefty's birth-day, it June,-was obferved as a holiday. The colours were hoifted at fun-rife : at noon, the marines and free people drew up under arms, to the right and left of the two three-pounders which were on the parade, in front of my houfe. The male convicts were alfo drawn up on the ri^ht, and the females on the left. Three rounds of the guns and mufquetry werd; fired; after which, the whole party gave three cheers, and were dif-milfed. In confideration of the behaviour of the convicts on the day when the hurricane happened, and their general conduct fince the difcovery of the plot, I was induced to let them partake of the general festivity of the day; and ordered half a pint of rum for each man, and a pint of wine for each woman, for them to drink his Majefty's health : the officers dined at my table, and on our drinking the King's health after dinner, three rounds of the great guns were fired: in the evening * bonfires were lighted up, and the front windows of my houfe were illuminated with the initials G. R. When every perfon was affembled, and 2 before June. CHAP, before the firing began, I ordered the prifoner, Thomas Watfon, who Xiv. r 1—,—j was in confinement for a theft, 'and whom I propofed fending to Port i?H9- Jackfon to be tried) to be brought out, and in consideration of the day I forgave him. The remaining four acres of wheat, which the caterpillars had not totally deftroyed, were now fliot out again, and had a very promifing appearance. On the 11 th, I drilled thirty pints of wheat into fixty roods of ground ; and, as I had but little feed left, this was, in my own opinion, difpofing of it to the beft advantage ; efpecially as it was probable that the increafe would be equal to that which had been fown at a broad cad : I alfo drilled in eighteen pints of marrow-fat peas. At day-light in the morning of the 13th, we perceived his Majefty's armed tender, the Supply, in the road : the furf at that time ran very high in Sydney-Bay, and there being but little eafterly wind, with a ftrong flood-tide, fhe could not get to Ball-Bay before three o'clock in the afternoon ; when I received my letters from Governor Phillip, who informed me, that he had fent Lieutenant John CrelTwell, of the marines, with fourteen privates, to ihe ifland; that Mr. Creffwell was to put himfelf under my command; and that in cafe of my death, or abfence, the government of the iiland was to devolve on him. I had alfo the pleating fatisfaction to find that my conduct was approved of by Governor Phillip. The furf ran very high on the 14th, until three o'clock in the afternoon, when Lieutenant Creffwell landed with his detachment and part of their baggage; but nothing elfe could be received on fhore until the 17th, when part of the provifions and flores were landed. As another 1 boat 14. boat was now become neceflary for the ufe of the fettlement, I wrote chap. XIV. to Lieutenant Ball, requefling him to fend his carpenter on fliore to c—v-^> build a coble, that being the moft convenient fort of boat for going out !789- June. and coming into this place. The carpenter landed in the afternoon, and immediately got to work in building a boat. During the 18th, all the provifions were received on fhore, except 18. fixteen cafks of flour; but the furf increafmg very much in the evening, I made a fignal for the Supply to hoifl the coble in. The fea ran fo very high, that no boat could land until the 21ft, when we received the 21. remainder of the provifions and flores; after which, the boats were employed in carrying off water for the Supply, and planks for Port Jackfon. Two pecks of wheat were drilled into an acre of ground in Arthur's Vale, on the 24th ; and on the next day, one acre and a 34, 2j. quarter was fown with half a bufliel of wheat at a broad eafl. We now had very ftrong gales at fouth-weft, and at nine o'clock in the morning the Supply pafled between Nepean Ifle and Point Hunter. The gale continuing heavy from the fouth-weft, I fent a perfon round to the lee fide of the ifland on the 26th, to look for the Supply; but 26. flic could not be feen until day-light in the morning of the 30th, when 30. flie was perceived hull down to the fouthward, and working up to the iiland. By this time the new boat was in great forwardnefs, and my own workmen being able to finifh it, I fent the carpenter of the Supply on board; and at four in the afternoon that veffel made fail for Port Jackfon. Lieutenant Ball had orders to examine a fhoal, which was feen by the mafter of the Golden Grove, on her return from this iiland in October laft, in latitude 290 25' fouth, longitude 1590 59' eait of Greenwich: he was alfo to look for an ifland and fhoal that were feen by Lieutenant Shortland, in the Alexander tranfport: the fhoal, in latitude chap, tude 20° 20' fouth, longitude i c8° 40' eafl, and the ifland 28" 10' fouth xiv. y b 3 * c-—v-' latitude, and 1590 50' eafl longitude. Mr Shortland named them Sir '789' Charles Middleton's Ifland and Shoal, and imagined they were joined July. 1. together. On the 1 ft of July, the new coble was fuiifhcd, and her bottom payed: her dimenfions were twenty-two feet long, by fix feet fix inches wide. This bufinefs being compleated, the fawyers and carpenters began to erect a houfe for Lieutenant Creffwell, of eighteen feet long, by 12 feet wide, with a back part nine feet fquare. The garden in Arthur's Vale being quite expofed and open, I employed fix men to furround it with a wattled hedge. Edward Gaff", a convict, was punifhed 5# with 100 lafhes on the 6th, for ftealing three quarts of wheat: indeed, fcarcely a day pafled without complaints being made of thefts, which were committed with fuch dexterity that it was impotable to detect them. That thefts in fo fmall a fociety fhould fo frequently happen was really aflonifliing; but when it is confidered, that the greateft part of that fociety were hardened villains, the wonder will ceafe. Eleven acres of wheat were now up in Arthur's Vale, and had a very promifing appearance : every vegetable in the gardens were alfo in a thriving ftate. Nothing material happened in the courfe of this month until the »8, 28th, when a tree fell on John Bryant, a convict, which bruifed his head fo much that he died two hours afterwards. This man was one among the very few honeft convicts which I had on the ifland. Two bufhels of feed wheat, being the remaining part of what I had left, was fown this day, on the fides of Mount George, on two acres of ground. Moft of the marines who came to the ifland with Lieutenant Creffwell, had now very comfortable huts and good gardens. In the month of Auguft. Auguft we had, in general, heavy gales of wind, chiefly at north-weft and fouth-weft, attended with rain. The The general employment of the convicts was now as follows: Clearing away ground for cultivation and other neceffary work ...... -^o Sawyers fawing fcantlings, and boards for buildings Carpenters building a houfe for Lieutenant Creffwell Blackfmith making and repairing neceffary iron work Coblemen fifliing ------ Gardeners ------- Making fliingles Schoolmafler i, officers fervants 3, care of ftock 1 2 free. 1 free. 1 free. 2 1 free. 4 5 Total 49 5 ctt A p. XIV. <--v--» 1789. Auguft, The 12th, being the aiiniveriary of his Royal Highnefs the Prince of tt: Wales's birth-day, the colours were hoifted at fun-rife, and it was obferved with the fame ceremony as his Majefty's birth-day, except giving liquor to the convicts, as their recent behaviour, with regard to thefts, had totally excluded them from that indulgence. As the wheat in Arthur's Vale grew very rank, I was advifed to crop it, which was done on the 13th: however, I let three acres remain in order to fee which T.(. way it would be moft productive. The carpenters having finiihcd the fhell of Lieutenant CreffwellY. houfe, I employed them in building an addition to the back part of my habitation, as I was apprehcnfive of its being blown down by the violent fouth-weft winds, which were now almoft conftant. After divine fervice on the 16th, (Sunday) the following orders were read for pre-f.Tving regularity and good order among the inhabitants of the ifland. 3 B OR DE R S C HAP. XIV. ORDERS. l78y. . Auguft, I. All perfons on the ifland are regularly to attend mutter and divine fervice, unlefs prevented by iicknefs : a difobedience of this order will be punifhed by extra-work, or by flopping a day's provifions for the firft offence; which, if repeated, will be punifhed by corporal chaftife-merit. II. No perfons are to abfent themfelves from their quarters, either by night or day, except they have obtained leave, or are going to their re-Tpective work ; and if any one is obferved lurking about after the watch is fet, he will be fired at by the centinel. III. The working hours are to be regularly attended to, and all perfons abfent from their work after the drum beats for that purpofe, will lofe a portion of the time they may fave from their tafks and in-cafe of a fecond offence, they will be feverely punifhed. IV. The tafks will be continued as ufual, and the time faved by the gangs is at their own difpofal: thofe who diflinguifh themfelves by employing their time in cultivating their gardens, and clearing ground fov their own ufe, will meet with encouragement and reward. V. If the overfeers, or the greateft part of any gang, fhould have reafon to complain of the idlenefs of any one man belonging to that gang, and the complaint fhould be found juft, the offender will be feverely punifhed. VI. Thofe VI. Thofe who render themfelves unable to work by their neglect or chat. XIV. obflinacy, in not building themfelves warm huts, or who cut them- t * __, felves through careleffnefs, will have a part of their provifions flopped 17^9. until they are able to go to work again. Auguft. VII. All the tools and utenfils are to be returned regularly every night to the flore-houfe when the retreat beats; and any perfon who is found fecreting any tool, or any article of the King's (lores, or committing any robbery whatever, will, on detection and conviction, receive fuch punifliment on the ifland as his Majefty's Jultices of the peace may judge the offence deferves ; or the offender will be fent to Fort Jackfon, to be tried by the criminal court, as the commandant may judge proper. VIII. It is recommended to every one to be very careful of their cloathing, and every free perfon or convict is ftrictly forbid buying or felling any article of flop cloathing: thofe who difobcy this order will be profecuted for buying or felling the King's ftores, whether free people or convicts. IX. Whenever it may be neceffary to make any complaint, the perfon making the complaint is to inform the corporal of the guard, who will immediately report it; when the commandant (or, in his abfence, Lieutenant John Creffwell,) will hear the complaint and decide upon it. X. Difobedience of orders, infolcnce to officers or overfeers, or any other improper behaviour, tending to the diflurbance of the peace, or hindrance ©f the King's fervice, will meet with fevere punifhment; 3 B 2 tnd CHAP, and a regular, houeft, good behaviour, will meet with encouragement XIV. and reward. 1789. Au£uft* His Majefty's juftices of the peace for this ifland, viz. the Commandant and Lieutenant John Creffwell, (on whom the government of the ifland devolves, in cafe of the commandant's death or abfence) have appointed Roger Morley and John Altree, to hold the office of conffables; and every perfon is ordered to be afiifting to either oz both of them in the execution of their office. Such were the laws, which our then fituations required,. Four acres of ground in Arthur's Vale were planted with Indian corn 24. on the 24th ; and, as the rats had dug up moil of that which had been planted in the gardens, I replaced it, putting five grains of corn into each pit. During the remainder of this month, we had heavy gales of wind from the fouth-weft, which turned all the wheat quite black, that was growing on the fouth fide of Mount George : but I did not apprehend that it was otherwife injured than by being kept back. This gale was of longer duration, and blew with greater force than any I bad hitherto obferved. 29. On the 29th, Ann Coombs, a female convict,, received fifty Iaihcs at the cart's tail, for defrauding Thomas Jones, of fome provifions: this punifliment, however, did not deter her from committing crimes of a fimilar nature ; for the very next day fhe was detected ftealing two new check ftiirts from Francis Mew, a private marine, and was punifhed with 100 lafhes. September, The weather during the month of September was variable; we had fome heavy gales of wind from the fouth-weft and eaftriiorth-eail, but they were not of long duration. Frequent Frequent notice has been taken of the deftructive effects of the qrub- CHAP, worm, and they were now as troubleiome as ever. Thefe pernicious I-;— vermin are generated from the eggs of a fly, which are left on the leaves September. of plants : here they come to life, and daily gathering ftrength and vigour, they deftroy the leaves; and afterwards, falling on the ground, they cut off the roots and ftalks. The furgeon, who, with great per-feverance and induftry, had got a very good garden, and every thing in it in great forwardnefs, had all his plants and vegetables nearly deftroyed by the grub-worm, and moft of the other gardens fhared the fame fates The mifchief done at my garden in Arthur's Vale was not fo great, which I attributed to the quantity of cultivated ground near it; and, probably, when more extenfive pieces of ground come to be cleared* the bad efTe&s of the grub-worm will be in a great meafure prevented but at prefent, thefe deftructive vermin, and the depredations of the convicts, rendered the cultivation of gardens very difcouraging to individuals. The corporal of marines, who was a very induftrious youngf man, had cleared and planted a piece of ground, and by attention and ailiduity, had raifed a quantity of vegetables, befides a very fine crop of potatoes, which wouid have yielded him at leaft five bufheH ; but, on the evening of the 5th, between fun-fet and the time of the watch ^ being fet, fome villains dug up every one of the potatoes, and deftroyed a quantity of other vegetables ; and although the convicts were muftered in their huts at fun-fet, and three times more during the night, yet the theft was not difcovered until the next morning, when a very ftrict fearch was made, in order to find out the offender, but to no purpofe, as the potatoes were (in the cant phrafe). all planted; viz. buried in the ground, fo as to be taken out as they were wanted. This was one of the many acts of villainy that were daily committed by thefe atrocious v.'retches. Catherine Johnfon, a female convict, was punifhed with 6 fifty chap, fifty lafhes on the 7th, for abufing the {tore-keeper, and accufmg him ^-1 of theft wrongfully. r 7S0. September 7. 16. Two acres were fown with Indian corn on the 16th, and the ground being quite (haded from the fun, I employed a gang of labourers to cut down the trees from three acres of land, in order to let the fun in upon 2?. the corn. On the 28th, the produce of 240 fets of potatoes, which had been planted on three roods of ground the firft of June, were dug up, and yielded five bufhels of very fine potatoes. Oftober. During the month of October, the weather was in general very mild ; 1. the wind chiefly from the fouth-eaft. On the ift, the carpenters, with two men to affift them, began framing a barn, which I propofed to erect in Arthur's Vale. The grub-worms were ftill very numerous, notwithftanding the women convicts were daily employed in picking them off the plants and out of the ground : they totally deftroyed one acre of Indian corn, and cut off every cabbage and other plants as faft as they fprang up. As it would be very convenient to have a path to the weft fide of the ifland, I employed fix men to cut a road from the fettlement to Mount Pitt, and from thence to Anfon-Bay, which hnfinefs was completed 21. on the 21 ft. 23. I went out in the morning of the 23d, to furvey the weft fide of Sydney-Bay, in the courfe of which, I found moft of the bones belonging to the body of one of the men who were drowned on the 6th of Auguft, 1788: I brought them to the fettlement, where they were interred. On On the 27th, we had a flrong gale of wind from the eaft, attended chap. xiv. with heavy rain, which was the firft that had happened fince the 23d v___v-—j of September, and was much wanted. Fifteen acres of wheat were now in ear, and had a good appearance ; and the Indian corn, of which ?:, We- had feven acres, was in a thriving ftate, although much thinned by lhe grub-worm : one acre of barley was alfo in ear, and the garden Vegetables were in great forwardnefs. The grub-worm had totally difappcared, but flill our calamities were not at an end; for the parro- the 29th, caufed the greateft acclamations of joy through the whole fettlement; every perfon imagining that fhips had arrived from England; efpccially as the Supply had been with us fo recently : but, prefently afterwards, we perceived it to be that veffel; and on receiving my letters from the governor, I found that no fhips had arrived from our native country j which piece of intelligence being circulated through the fettlement, a dejection took place equal to the joy that was vifible a fhort time before. Twenty-two male convicts and one female arrived by the Supply, but no provifions were fent along with them, there'being only a fufficient quantity at Port Jackfon to ferve until the latter end of May, at the prefent allowance ; and as our crops had been good, and our re-fources, with refpect to fifh and vegetables, were greater than at Port Jackfon, the governor had thought proper to fend this additional number of convicts. 2 Our Our prefent numbers were now as follow, viz, chap. XIV. * Civil and military, - - 32 Male convicts. •» 70 1 * / y January. Female convicts, - - 33 Children, 5 Total - 149 I was alfo informed by Governor Phillip, that as it was neceflary for the Sirius to have her full complement of officers, he had ordered me to be difcharged from that fhip; and had appointed Mr. Newton Fowell to be fecond-lieutcnant in my room, and Mr. Henry Waterhoufe to be third-lieutenant, in It cad of Lieutenant George William Maxwell, who was reported by the furgeons to be infane. Having received all the convicts from the Supply, and fent my letters February ! for Governor Phillip on board, (lie fet fail for Port Jackfon on the 2d 2. of February. During this month we had heavy gales of wind, with fome intervals of fine weather, and the rain becoming frequent, 1 ordered fheds to be built over the faw-pits, that the lawyers might work without interruption. Thofe few amongft the convicts who had been induArious, were now rewarded for it, as ibme had raifed from one thoufand to fifteen hundred cobs of Indian corn ; which, together with the fifh that was procured from time to time, was of great fervice to them now that their allowance of fait provifions was reduced, The remainder of the Indian corn was got in on the 19th. *«. 2 C 2 Richard CHAP. R ichard Phillimore, a convict:, had Informed me that the term of his XIV, *—v—1 tranfpoitation expired on the 16th of January; and having taken the l,9°" oath adminiltered on that occafion, he fignified a wifli of becoming a February, t . fettler: as he was a fobcr, induflrious man, I gave him time to coniider of it, and to look out for a fituation where he would like to fettle at: 22- he informed me on the 2 2d, that he ftill was defirous of fixing on the iiland, and had found a fpot where he wiflied to refide; on which, I fent fome labourers to build him an houfe, and to clear away a little ground for a commencement; I alfo gave him a fow with young, and fome poultry, and he was fully of opinion, that in one year, or two at far the it, he fhould be able to fupport himfelf, without any afliftance from the fettlement. March. During the month of March, we had a deal of blowing weather, and much rain; the wind generally from the fouth-weft. The labourers were employed in clearing ground for cultivation, hulking and ft ripping Indian corn, and other neceffary work ; and fix men were fawing frames for building barracks. CHAPTER CHAP T E R XV. The arrival of the Sirius and Supply at Norfolk-Ifland,—Thelofs of the Sirius, —Captain Hunter and the crew faved.—-A general meeting of the officers convened,—Sundry regulations adopted,—Martial-Law proclaimed,— Lieutenant-Governor Rofs takes the command.—Lieutenant King leaves Norfolk-Ifland.—Defcription of Norfolk-Ifland.—Face of the country. <—Water—Soil—Climate—Timber—Infects—Fifh — Seafons—Winds— Goafi, and Bays.—Prefent fate of cultivation.--General behaviour of the convicts.—Number of in habitants on the ifland,—Gram and live flock. -—Lieutenant King arrives at Port Jackfon.—Finds the country greatly improved,—Manners and cufloms cj the natives.—Vocabulary of the language* A March, '3- T the break of day on the i ;th of March, I was alarmed with a chav, tumultuous nolle of huzzaing and rejoicing ; on enquiry into the w->r^*. caufe, I found that two veifcls were feen in the offing. Every one of '79° us were now fully periuaded that the long looked for and much expected relief was at length arrived, and we began to felicitate each other that the time was now come, when we fliould hear news from England : fome of us anticipated pleafing and unpleafing accounts from our friends in the northern hemifphere, as we had been near three years abfent, without having received the leaft intelligence from our relatives, or native country. As CHAP. As the wind blew ftrong at fouth-weft, and a great fea was running xv. v V,L-/ in the bay; the veffels, (which we found were the Sirius and Supply,) '79°' bore up for Ball-Bay, to which place I went, and received from Lieu-tenant Ball my letters from Governor Phillip. Our expectations were once more blafted, for, inftead of thofe pleating hopes being realized, which the appearance of the velfels had created in the morning, we were informed that no relief had arrived, nor had any intelligence been received from Kngland. I found by the governor's let$r% that he had fent Lieutenant-Governor Rofs in the Sirius, to take the command at Norfolk-Iiland, as the fervice rendered it neceflary for my returning to England, in order to give fuch information to his Majefty's minifters, rcfpecYmg the fettlement I had eftabliihcd, as could not be conveyed by letter. I was alfo directed to furnifh Lieutenant-Governor Rofs with copies of all fuch orders as I had from time to time received from the governor, and which had not been put in execution; together with all the information I had acquired refpecting the nature of the foil, and the mode of cultivation which had been followed; as alfo my obfervations refpecting the climate, and the general line of conduct of the people under my direction ; and to leave him fuch rules and regulations as I had eftabliflied for preferving good order and regularity among the convidls. I was farther directed to embark on board the Sirius, whofe commander had orders to receive me on board, with all fuch petty officers, feamen, and marines, belonging to that fhip, who were not defirous of becoming fettlers; directions having been given the Lieutenant-Governor to that • effect. Lieutenant-Governor Rofs brought with him, one captain, five fubalterns, a number of non-commiflioned officers and privates, with the colours: alfo a number of male and female convicts, and children;. With their proportion of cloaths, provifions, and ftores. The two veffels went round to Cafcade-Bay, where part of the detachment of marines, marines and fome of the convicts were landed ; and the next forenoon, the remainder of the marines and convicts, with a great part of their baggage, were landed, and they marched to the fettlement. The Lieutenant-Governor arrived at the fettlement at noon. In the orders for the night, he requefted that I would continue the command of the iiland until my departure. On the 15th, the remains of the provifions and other ftores on the ifland were furveyed by Captain Johniton and Lieutenants Creffwell and Clark: after which, I got the receipts from Mr. Roger Morley, to whom I had given an order to act as ftore-kecper, with the approbation of Governor Phillip. The wind blew ftrong from the eaft-fouth-eaft ; and on the 16th, we had ftrong gales from the north-eaft, with almoft conftant heavy rain. The Sirius and Supply were feen from Mount Pitt, fome diftance at fea, in the fouth-eaft quarter. This day, Jeremiah Leary, a convict, ran the gantlet among the convicts for a theft, and was feverely puniihed. We had very ftrong gales from the north-eaft on the 17th, attended with almoft conftant rain. The two veffels Were working up for the ifland ; and at one o'clock in the afternoon, the Supply came into the road, and landed a quantity of luggage, feme flock, and thirteen calks of provifions. No landing could be attempted on the 18th, the wind ftill blowing very ftrong at north-eaft; but on the 19th, the wind fhifted to the eaft-fouth-eaft, and grew more moderate ; fo that at day-light, the Supply came into the road, and the Sirius was at fome diftance to the fouthward, Handing in for the iiland. There being very fine landing, I made the iignal that large boats could .land fafely, and by ten o'clock every thing was received from the Supply: foon afterwards, the Sirius hove to, in order to hoift her boats °ut, which, being accomplished, flic made fail; but the tide of flood Hill chap, ftill ran very ftron the right, and the convicts on the left, the officers being in the center-The proclamation was then read, declaring, that the ifland was to be governed by martial law, until further orders : the lieutenant-governor' next addreffed the convicts, and, after pointing out the fituation of the fettlement, he exhorted them to be honeft, induftrious, and obedient: this being concluded, the whole gave three cheers; and every perfon, beginning with the lieutenant-governor, pafled under the union Hag, taking off their hats as they pafled it, in token of an oath to fubmit and be amenable to the martial law, which had then been declared-After this ceremony was concluded, the convicts and the Sirius's crew were fent round to Cafcade-Bay, where a proportion of flour and pork \v*$ received from the Supply, and brought round to the fettlement.. 8 In In the afternoon, John Brannagin and William Dring (two convicts) chap. offered to go on board the wreck, in order to heave the live ftock over- \- hoard; and having obtained the permifiion of Captain Hunter and the 1790. Lieutenant-Governor, they went to the wreck, and fent a number of March' pigs and fome poultry on more, but they remained on board; and at the dufk of the evening, a light was perceived in the after part of the fhip; on which, a volley of fmall arms were fired, to make them quit the wreck, or put the light out; which not being done, a three pounder fliotted was fired into the wreck, but with no effect: on this, John Arfcot, a convict carpenter, offered to go off; and although it was quite dark, and the furf ran very high, yet he got on board, and obliged the other two convicts to quit the wreck by the hawfer. Arfcot hailed the fliore, but we could not underftand what he faid, except that he fliould flay on board the wreck. Brannagin (one of the convicts) was drunk when he came on fhore. , On the 23d, we had very ftrong gales of wind at weft by north, but *j» the landing was good early in the morning, and the large coble was fent on board the Supply, (which was in the road) with fome of my baggage, and the officers and men belonging to the Sirius, who were going to Port Jackfon. The mafter of the Sirius, with eight men, went on board the wreck by the hawfer, and a triangle was erected on the reef, to keep the bight of the hawfer from the ground; which would greatly facilitate the landing any article from the wreck. The mafter informed Captain Hunter, by a note, that Brannagin and Dring (the two convicts) had fet fire to the wreck, which had burnt through the gun deck ; but had been happily extinguished by Arfcot, who went on board to fend them out of the fhip : on this, they were ordered into confinement previous to their being tried for fetting fire to the wreck. 3 D 2 The 383 OBSERVATIONS ON CHAP. The weather being moderate and pleafant in the morning of the 24th, i_ t - 1 i went on board the Supply, along with Lieutenants Waterhoufe and Fowell, and twenty-two of the crew, belonging to the late Sirius; and 24. at noon, we made fail for Port Jackfon. As i have now taken leave of this ifland, i fhall add my general obfervations on it; and although feveral of them may probably have been made before, in the courfe of this journal, yet it perhaps may not be amifs to collect them together in one point of view. NORFOLK ISLAND. By the mean of feveral meridional altitudes of the fun, and a great number of lunar obfervations, the latitude of Sydney-Bay is 29° 04/ 40'' fouth, and its longitude 1680 12' eaft, of Greenwich. The form of the ifland is a long fquare, and it contains about fourteen thoufand acres: it is fix miles in length and four in breadth. Face of the country.—The ifland is very hilly, and fome of the valleys are tolerably large, confidering the fize of the ifland but moft of them are only deep hollows, formed by the fteep hills on each fide, fome of which rife fo perpendicular that they cannot be cultivated. There are fome extenfive plains on the fummits of the hills. Mount Pitt is the only remarkable hill on the ifland, and is about two hundred fathoms high. The cliffs round the ifland are about forty fathoms high, and are quite perpendicular : the bafis of them, as well as moft of the rocks and reefs round the ifland, is a hard, firm clay, of a very fine texture. The whole ifland is covered with a very thick foreft, choaked up with underwood, which makes it impaffable until it is cleared away. Water. Water.—The ifland is well fupplied with many ftreams of very fine chap. xv. water, fome of which are fufficiently large to turn a number of mills: <-^-j it is probable that moft of thefe rivulets originate from fprings near *79°- Mount Pitt. On a hill, near the middle of the ifland, between Cafcade March* and Sydney bays, there is a pond of frefli water, about half an acre : there is no rivulet near it, nor can any fpring be perceived, yet, in the greateft drought, it conftantly remains full, and has a very good tafte. AH thefe ftreams abound with very fine eels. Soil.—From the fides of the cliffs which furround the coaft, to the fummit of Mount Pitt, there is a continuation of the fineft foil, varying from a rich brown mould to a light red earth. Some large ftones are found on different parts of the ifland. Air.—As a proof of the falubrity and wholefomenefs of the air, it is to be remarked, that there had been fcarcely any ficknefs fince I. landed, nor had we any illnefs whatever, except a few colds. Timber and trees.—There are only five forts of trees on the ifland which can be called timber; viz. the pine, a wood refembling the live oak j a yellow wood ; a hard black wood ; and a wood refembling the Englifh beech. The pine-trees are of a great fize, many of them being from one hundred and eighty to twohundredand twenty feet high, and from four to eight feet diameter fome diftance from the ground. Thofe trees, which meafure from one hundred to one hundred and eighty feet high,, are in general found, and are without branches for eighty or ninety feet, but the upper part is too knotty and hard to be ufeful; indeed, it fre-qucntly happens, that after twenty feet have been cut off from the butt,, the trees becomes rotten and fhaky, and is alfo very brittle; for which reafon, CHAP, reafon, no dependence can be put on them for mafts or yards. The *-—turpentine which exudes freely from the bark, is of a milk-white glu-I79°* tinous fubftance; but it is rather remarkable, that there is none in the March. _ -ii timber. We tried to render this turpentine ufeful in paying boats, and other purpofes, but without fuccefs ; as it would neither melt nor burn : we alfo tried to make pitch or tar, by burning the old pines; but there being no turpentine in the wood, our efforts were ufelefs. The pine is very ufeful in buildings, and being difperfed in various parts of the iiland, is well calculated for fuch buildings as hereafter may be neceffary : from what I have been able to obferve, it is very durable, as that which we had ufed for erecting houfes, ftood the weather very well. Two cobles were built of this wood, one of which was built in June, 1788 : fhe was water-foaked, owing to our want of any kind of fluff* to pay her with. The live-oak, yellow-wood, black-wood, and beech, are all of a clofe grain, and durable ; in general they are from fourteen to twenty inches diameter. The branches of the live-oak are fit for timbers and knees of boats or fmall veffels. There are a variety of other fmall trees on the ifland, but as they are not ufeful, it is unneceffary to enumerate them here; though I fhould not omit the fern-tree, the bark of which ferves many purpofes, inftead of twine and rope. The cabbage-palm were in great plenty when I firft landed on the ifland, but, by continual cutting, they were almoft deftroyed. There is a plant among the underwood, which produces a kind of pepper ; its leaves are broad, and have an aromatic, pungent tafte : the core which contains the feed, fhoots out between the leaf and the ftalk, and is in general two or three inches long, and full of fmall feeds, which have nearly the fame tafte as the leaves; but, on their being dried, the fmell and tafte leaves them : it is alfo difficult to find w. 17 go. March, jind them in a ftate of ripenefs, as the parroquets deftroy them before they c h af, can arrive at any degree of perfection. The flax-plant of New Zealand, grows fpontaneoully, and in great quantities on many parts of the ifland, but chiefly on the coafls and in the vallies near the fea : the leaves of this plant, when full grown, are from fix to eight feet long, and fix inches wide at the bottom : each plant contains feven leaves, and a woody flalk rifes from the center, which bears the flowers: it feeds annually, and the old leaves are forced off by the young one every year. The method of foaking and preparing European flax and hemp, had been tried, but with no other effect than feparating the vegetable part from the fibres $ and a ligneous fubftance ftill remaining, it could not be reduced to an ufeful ftate. Some lines have been made of it, but they were not very ftrong j though the flax appears capable of being worked into a very fine fubftance, if the method of preparing it were known. InJeSis.—Thefe have already been defcribed. The ground is much inferred by the grub-worm, which are very deftructive to the growth of vegetables : they are moftly troublefome about the iprfng. Various methods have been tried to- deftroy thefe vermin, but without effect. The caterpillar has alfo been very troublefome in the fpring $ having deftroyed acres of Indian corn and acres of wheat: they came in upon the grain quite fuddenly, and after remaining three weeks,, they went away with the fame rapidity.. Fifi.—The coafts of the ifland abound with very fine fiihj, which are principally the fnapper, and weigh from four to eight pounds each. A few flfli are at times caught from the fhore 5 t?his, however, happens but feldom ; fo that a fupply of fifh muft depend on the weather and the furf permitting boats to go out.. Li moderate weather, boats might fend chap, land in Collin s's-Bay, on Phillip-Iiland, where a great quantity of fifh XV v^—t might be cured, from March to September; after which time the fly 179°- prevents it. March. Eeafons.—The fpring is very vifible in Auguft, but the trees on many parts of the ifland are in a conftant fucceflion of flowering and feeding the whole year round. The fummer is very hot: I had no thermometer to determine the degree of heat, but it is exceflive. From the 23d of September, 1789, to the 22d of February, 1790, not one drop of rain fell, excepting on two days in December; but it fhould be remarked, that we had no drought in the former year. All the grain, and the European plants feeded in December. From February to Auguft may be called the rainy feafon 5 not that I think there is any regular time of rains during thefe months, as the weather is fometimes very fine for a fortnight together; but when the rain does fall, it pours in torrents. I do not recollect, more than three claps of thunder, or lightning, during the time I remained on the ifland. The winter, (which may be faid to commence in April, and end in July,) is very pleafant; there is never any froft; but when the fouth-weft winds blow, which are very frequent and violent in thefe months, the air is raw and cold. It is very remarkable, that during fome days in December and January, the weather has been much colder than in the winter months. The fouth-eaft, and eaft winds are very parching and dry, as no dew falls when thofe winds prevail. Winds.—During the winter months, the wind is moftly from fouth to weft, blowing with great violence for a week together; afterwards it veers round to the fouthward and fouth-eaft, which brings fine weather for a few days, then it veers to eaft, north-eaft, and north-weft, blowing J 1790. March. in heavy gales, and generally accompanied with violent torrents of rain : CHA V. xv after which it fhifts to fouth-weft : indeed, I do not remember one in-ftance of the wind coming to the north-eaft, round by weft. The fouth-eaft wind blows during the fummer with very little variation, and fometimes very ftrong. Coajls of the ifland.—The coafts of the ifland are in general fteep to, and (excepting Sydney, Anfon, Ball, and Cafcade Bays,) are inacceftible ; being furrounded by fteep cliffs, which rife perpendicularly from the fea. A number of large rocks lie fcattered about clofe to the fliore, on which a continual furf breaks with great force. Sydney-Bay, (which was fo named after Lord Vifcount Sydney,) lies on the fouth fide of the ifland, and here the fettlement was formed : this bay is formed by Point Hunter and Point Rofs, which lie eaft half north, and weft half fouth of each other, and are about a mile and three-quarters afunder. A reef of clay and coral extends from Point Hunter, at the diftance of 150 yards from the fliore, and parallel to it, for about three-quarters of a mile: clofe to the back of this reef, there is four fathoms water ; it terminates abrcaft of the fertlement\vith a corner, round which is the landing place; but, as the furf breaks with great violence on the reef, it fometimes breaks into the paffage off the corner, fo that landing is then impoflible. The landing in this bay, entirely depends on the ftate of the fea without, and the direction of the wind; great attention fhould alfo be paid to the fignals from the fhore. I have feen the landing, for a month together, as good as could be wifhed ; and fometimes a very heavy furf would continue for a fortnight: on the whole, the beft time for landing is from half ebb to half flood, ind an eafterly, north-eaft, and north-weft wind, generally make fmooth 3 E water. water. There is another reef off Point Rofs, which ftretchcs about halt a mile into the fea ; and no veffel ought ever to go within the outer breaker of this reef, and the fouth point of Nepean-Ifle. The tide fcU right through between the iflands, and when the flood runs to the well-ward, it fets very ftrong round Ncpean-Ifland into the bight of Sydney-Bay j therefore all veffels ought to be particularly cautious not to go within Nepean-Iiland with an inblowing wind : fliould the wind be from the eaftward or weftward, veffels might ftand very clofe in ; but even this ought not to be done, except for the purpofe of taking a boat up, and then the tide muft be confidered. The paffige between Point Hunter and Nepean-Ifland is a very good one, there being three fiuhoms water clofe to Nepean-Ifle, and nine fathoms in mid-channel. There lies a rock off Point Hunter in the direction of fouth-weft with one fathom and a half on it, but it is out of the paffige. The tide occafions a very ftrong race between the iflands, which makes it very difficult for veffels to have communication with the fliore, as they cannot anchor, the bottom being rocky. The ebb runs nine hours to the eaft, and the flood three hours to the weft, but at times, the flood has been obferved to run five hours: it flows in this bay at feven hours and an half, full and change, and rifes feven feet perpendicular. Anson-Bay, (which was named after George Anion, the member of parliament for Litchfield,) is a fmall bay with a fandy beach : the landing here is tolerably good in fettled weather, and when the fea is quite fmooth ; but as the interior parts of the ifland are fo very difficult of accefs from thence, no ftiip's boats have ever landed there, Ball-Bay, (which was named after Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball,) goes in about three-quarters of a mile : the beach informed of large loofe ftoncsj flones, which renders beaching boats here dangerous, though it often chap. xv happens that the landing here is very good when the furf has increafed 1 ' fo much in Sydney-Bay as to render landing there impracticable. A 1790. good landing place was cleared away here, but in the courfe of three MartIl« months the flones were wafhcd into it again, although many of them weighed two hundred pounds each. This bay is furrounded by very fteep hills, which renders the accefs to the fettlement from hence rather difficult. Cascade-Bay.—The fouth-weft winds, which generally prevail during the winter months, make this the beft fide of the iiland for landing on at that feafon. A good landing place may caiily be made, where any thing might be landed from half ebb to half flood. It is the intention of the lieutenant-governor to erect a ftore-houfe, and make a good landing place; indeed this would have been done before, but the want of hands prevented it. The Golden-Grove and Supply have both lain at anchor in this bay, bringing the great Cafcade to bear fouth-weft, at one mile from the fhore, in feventeen fathoms coral and fand, but the bottom is foul, as there is great reafon to fuppofe it is all round the iiland. Prefent Jlate of cultivation.—The proper time for fowing wheat or barley is from May to Auguft : that which is fown in flickered fituations, fhould be fown in May, June, and July : and that which is fown in places that are expofed to the fca-winds on the fouth fide of the iiland, fliould not be fown before July; and if fo late as Auguft, it would yield well. The wheat, which has been fown, produced more than twenty-fold; and, I think in future, it will yield a ftill greater increafe. We have found a bufhel and an half of feed fufiicicnt for an acre of ground 3 E z newly CHAP, newly broke up. Two bufhels of barley fown in May on an acre of XV. —■v—J ground yielded twenty-four bufhels. Indian corn fliould be planted i79°- from June until Auguft, in places not much expofed to the fea winds: £Uch' it yields well, and is in my opinion the beft grain to cultivate, on account of the little trouble attending its growth, and the manufacturing it for food. The fugar-cane grows very ftrong, and I think will come to perfection ; although it fuffers much from the blighting winds, and the grub-worm. Vines, orange, and lemon trees, are in a very thriving ftate: the banana trees found growing on the ifland, will, I make no doubt, thrive very well, when thofe which have been planted out from the old trees come to perfection; indeed fome of them have already yielded good fruit. That ufeful article of food, the potatoc, thrives amazingly, and two crops a year may be obtained with eafe : I have feen 120 potatoes at one root, 80 of which were larger than an hen's egg. Every kind of garden vegetable (which the grub fpare?*,) grows well and comes to great perfection : cabbages weigh from ten to twenty-feven pounds each : melons and pumpkins alfo grow very fine. I think fituations might be found on the ifland, where cotton and indigo will thrive : of the latter, there are two trees, both which are very large and fine, bul the ant deftroys the bloffom as faft as it flowers. Rice has been fown twice, viz. once each year, but the fouth-eaft winds blighted a great part of it: that which efcaped the blight, yielded a great ~incrcafe. The quantity of ground cleared and in cultivation on the 1 3th of March', 1790, was thirty acres belonging to the crown, and about eighteen acres cleared by free people and convicts, for their gardens. It was my intention to put as many labourers as could be fparcd from Other neceifary work, to clear ground for cultivation ; and I had reafon to NORFOLK ISLAND, 397 to believe that I fliould have had from fifty to feventy acres fown with chap. XV. grain by the end of October : I purpofed to continue clearing ground in i_s 1. Arthur's Vale, and on the hill round it, in order to have all the culti- novated lands belonging to the public as much connected together as pof- March* fible j this would have anfwered much better for the growth of wheat, Indian corn, or barley, than their being fown in confined fituations ; which experience had fhewn were not at all productive : the parroquets and other birds would not have deftroyed fo much of the grain before it Was got in, and it might be much better guarded from thieves than if the cultivated grounds were difperfed in different parts of the ifland: another very material reafon for clearing all the ground in this particular fituation was, that the barn was fituated in the center of the vale. I propofed building a ftrong log flore-houfe at Cafcade-Bay, and making the landing place there more eafy of accefs; which, from the increafed number of the inhabitants on the iiland, was now become abfolutcly neceffary j efpecially as landing there is much oftener practicable than in Sydney-Bay : indeed, I fliould have got this bufinefs done, but that it Would have been a great hindrance to cultivation, which I ever thought was the principal object to attend to. The other buildings which i meant to erect, were barracks for the foldiers, of 54 feet long by 16 feet wide; a granary, 36 feet long by 20 feet wide, and a flore-houfe, 60 feet long by 24 feet wide; all which, I hoped, would have been completed by the enfuing December, Reflecting the flax, although we made repeated trials, yet, having no perfon converfant in the preparation of it, I found it could not at prefent be brought to an ufeful ftate: but I may venture to fay, that if proper flax'-dreffers could be fent to. New Zealand, to obferve their method CHAP, method of manufacturing it, they might render it a valuable commodii xv. . c—„—j both to furnifh the inhabitants with cloathing, and for other purpofes 1790. March. It was my intention to have built an houfe and a fhed on Phillip-Ifland, and, after landing three or four months water on it, to have fent fix convicts with a boat to catch and cure fifh; this would have been a great refource for Norfolk-Ifland j but the fifh muft have been cured from April to September, on account of the fly. I apprehend, from the goodnefs of the foil, that Norfolk-Ifland is -very capable of maintaining at leaft one hundred families, allowing to each an hundred acres of ground, and referving two thoufand acres for fuel: with induftry, they would have in a fliort time, all the neceffaries of life, except cloathing, and that mult depend on the flax of the iiland, cor the growth of European flax. The want of a fafe harbour for veffels to lie in, is a very great inconvenience, and renders it difficult to have accefs to the ifland ; indeed, veffels may load and unload, by going to the lee-fide, and embracing other favourable opportunities, but unfortunately the vafl quantity of coral rocks which cover the bottom, render anchorage very unlafe: however, mould the fettlement at Port Jackfon be continued, in the courfe of a few years thefe difficulties will fcarcely be thought on, when compared with the advantages arifing from the quantity of grain that there is every reafon to fuppofe may be drawn from this ifland, for the fupport of the inhabitants of New South-Wale's. Genera/ behaviour of the convicts, and other remarks.—The few convicts that firft landed with me, in general behaved well; but, as their o numbers numbers increafed. they renewed their wicked practices : the moft artful chap. and daring thefts were now almoft daily committed, and the perpetrators s—v-^j could feldom be difcovered ; and nothing but the certainty of meeting J79°* with a very fevere punifhment, and the muflering them frequently during the night in their huts could prevent thefe thefts in any degree whatever: indeed, they were often troublefome, and fome of them were incorrigible, notwithstanding every encouragement was held out to them, and the indigencies they received were fully fufficient to convince them that they would be treated according to their deferts: fome few of them were fufceptible of the advantages ariling from induftry and good behaviour; thofe of this description had the Satisfaction of enjoying a quantity of Indian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables, which were a great affiftance to them at the time they were put to fliort allowance of provifions y and fome of them had cleared from one to three acres of ground, which they propofed fowing with Indian corn and potatoes : thefe formed a refpectable fet of convicts, compared to the greater part,, who were idle, miferable wretches. When I firft landed on the ifland, the convicts were kept at day-Work, having ltated times for their dinners and other meals : this Method anftvered very well whilft there were few to look after j but When their numbers increafed, I had not people of confidence to overlook them and keep them at work : I therefore judged it would be more eligible to talk them, taking the opinion of thofe whom I thought molt converfant in the different kinds of work that were going forward. The °xv.P% The numbers of inhabitants I left on Norfolk Iiland were as follow: i . ii n * 1790. Civil, military, and free —« — 90 •torch. Belonging to the Sirius — _ 80 Male convicts —. — i.q£ Female convicts —- — 100 -Children — — — 37 Total — 498 The quantities of grain, potatoes, and live flock I left were as follow: Wheat, - from 2$o to 300 bufhels. Barley - 6 bufhels. Indian corn - 130 to 140 bufhels. Potatoes, one acre, would be ready to dig in May. Hogs, large and fmall, belonging to the public, 26, befides 18 hogs, a quantity of poultry, 3 goats, and 1 ewe, my property; and fome ilock belonging to individuals* Before I take my final leave of this ifland, (where I remained two years) I cannot help acknowledging the great afliftance I have received from the few officers I had with me; nor was this propriety of conduct •confined to the officers alone, as all the marines and other free people were fteady and regular in their behaviour ; and it gives me a fenfible fatisfaftion to remark, that, excepting on one or two occafions, I never had any reafon to be diffatisficd with any of the few free perfons I had under my command. Exclufive of this general approbation of the good conduct of the free people, I muft particularife Mr. Creffwell, the officer of marines; Mr. Stephen Dunavan, midshipman; and Mr. Thomas Jamiefon* Jamiefon,. furgeon's mate, of the Sirius, I feci the greateft fatisfaction in faying that a conftant, uniform propriety of conduct, and a readincfs in forwarding the fervice, were ever zealoully fhewn by thefe gentlemen. At noon on the 24th, the Supply made fail, and we arrived at Port m-Jackfon on the 4th of April. ^ When I left Port Jackfon in February, 1783, the ground about Sydney-Cove was covered with a thick foreft, but on my arrival at this time, I found it cleared to a confiderable diftance, and fome good buildings were erected. The governor, the lieutenant-governor, the judge-advocate, and the greateft part of the civil and military officers were comfortably lodged. The governor's houfe is built of ftonc, and has a very good appearance, being feventy feet in front. The lieutenant-governor's houfe is built of brick, as are alfo thofe belonging to the judge and the commiftary : the reft of the houfes are built with logs and plaiftered, and all the roofs are either covered with (hinglcs or thatched. The hofpital is a good temporary building: the foldiers were in barracks, and the officers had comfortable huts, with gardens adjoining to them j but unfortunately, thefe gardens afford but little, as there is not more than two feet of foil over a bed of rocks, and this foil is little better than black fand; and to this inconvenience muft be added, the depredations of rats and thieves. At the diftance of an hour's walk from Sydney-Cove, the foil is better in fome places, and thefe are occupied by the officers and others, as their farms: there are alfo brickkilns and a pottery, both which articles they make very well, but a great inconvenience arifes in their not being able to glaze the earthenware. c n a p. xv. 1790. March. 3 F From From the little I law of the foil about Sydney-Cove, i think it is very bad, moft of the ground being covered with rocks, or large {tones, which are ufed for building, and when cut, greatly refemble the Portland If one; they are eafily worked, and harden very much after being wrought. A little below Sydney-Cove, there is another, called Farm-Cove, at the head of which there are about fifteen acres of ground in cultivation, but the foil is very indifferent. Governor Phillip, it feems, had made feveral excurfions, in order to inform himfelf more fully about the nature of the foil, and to find out a place more proper for cultivation, than the land about the lower part of the harbour; and, at length, had fixed on a fituation at the head of it, about eleven miles from Sydney-Cove. The foil here was found to be much better than at Sydney-Cove, and a number of convicts were fent there in 1789, with a captain's guard, in order to prevent any difputes with the natives, and to preferve regularity amongfl the convicts. I accompanied Governor Phillip to this place, which is named Rofe-Hill, on the 9th : we left Sydney-Cove at eight In the morning, and arrived at Rofe-Hill before noon. About two miles below this fettlement, the harbour becomes quite narrow, being not more than ten or twelve yards acrofs, and the banks are about fix feet high : here, the country has the appearance of a park. In rowing up this branch, we faw a flock of about thirty kangaroos or paderong, but they were only vifible during their leaps, as the very long grafs hid them from our view. We landed about half a mile from the fettlement, and walked up to it. This fettlement is on an elevated ground, which joins to a fine crefcent, as regular as if formed by art; it is probable that this crefcent, and the regular Hopes which furround the fettlement, have been formed by very heavy rains. The foil is loam, fand, and clay: the trees are not fo large ~ here here as lower down the harbour, but the large roots lying on the ground chap. x v. render it difficult to clear. A fine ftream of frefli water runs into the head t__ v *_, of the harbour, which, in the winter, and when heavy rains fall, fome- '79°- J April, times rifes feven or eight feet, and becomes a rapid torrent. A redoubt is conftrucled here, in which are vdry good barracks for officers and foldiers : there is likewife a ftore-houfe. On the oppofite fide of the 'brook, there is a farm-houfe, where a fervant of Governor Phillip's refides, who is charged with the fupmntendence of the convicts and the cultivation of the ground; to which charge he is very equal, and is of the greateft fervice to the governor, as he has no other free perfon whatever to overlook any piece of work carrying on by the convicts. Near to this farm-houfe, there.is a very good barn and a granary. The convicts houfes form a line at fome diftance, in front of the barracks, . "with very good gardens before and behind each houfe : indeed, the whole, joined to the pleafantnefs of the fituation, makes it a beautiful landfcape. In 1789, the quantity of ground fown with wdieat here, ^and at Sydney-Cove, was twenty-two acres; with barley, feventeen acres; flax, Indian corn, and beans, three acres. The quantity of wheat raifed was two hundred bufhels: of barley, fixty bufhels; flax, heans, and other feeds, ten bufhels: the wheat is a fine full grain. This year (1790) near one hundred acres will be cleared at Rofe-Hill, of which forty are to be fown with wheat. After dinner, I accompanied the governor from Rofe-Hill to Profpect-Hill, which is about four miles diftant: we walked through a very pleafant tract of country, which, from the diftance the trees grew from each other, and the gentle hills and dales, and rifing flopes covered with grafs, appeared like a vaft park. The foil from Rofe-hill to Profped-*fill is nearly alike, being a loam and clay. It is remarkable, that ^ F 2 although CHAP, although the diftance between thefe two places is only four miles, yet XV. u^-v-^ the natives divide it into eight different diftricts. Profpect-Hill is a i790» fmall elevation, which commands a very extenfive profpedt of the Ap"1- country to the fouthward : a range of very high mountains bound the view to the weftward: thefe mountains, which lie nearly north and fouth, are about forty miles from Profpect-Hill; and the intervening country is a thick foreft: the northernmoft of thefe mountains is called Richmond-Hill, at the foot of which the Hawkefbury takes its rife from a bed of frefli water coal. A river has been difcovered by Captain Tench, of the marines, which runs near the foot of Lanfdown-Hills; its direction appears to be north and fouth, but how far it runs to the fouthward cannot be afcertairted, though there is great reafon to fuppofe it runs a confiderable way, as it does not empty itfelf into Botany-Bay ; it therefore appears probable that it may come into the fea about Long-Nofe, or Cape St. George, where there is an appearance of a good harbour. There were at this time three of the natives who lived at Port Jackfon, viz. a man about twenty-eight years old, a girl about thirteen, and a boy about nine years old. The man was taken by ftratagem,' by Lieutenant Bradley, who enticed him and another native to the boat by holding up a fifh: they were both fecured, a number of the natives being at the fame time on the fliore ; thefe threw a number of fpcars, and although they are only made of wood, yet one of them went through four folds of the boat's fail, and ftruck the apron of the boat's ftern with fuch violence as to fplit it. One of thefe natives made his efcape' prefently afterwards, but the other grew reconciled to his fituation, and lives with the governor: he is a very intelligent man, and much information may, no doubt, be procured from him, when he can be well underftood. underflood. Mr. Collins, the judge-advocate, is very afliduous in chap. .xv. learning the language, in which he has made a great progrefs. This v—~» native has no lefs than five names, viz. " Bannclon, Wolkwarre, Botnba, l?99* April. *' Bunde-bunda, Wogi trowey" but he likes beft to be called by the fecond: he is a flout, well made man, about five feet fix inches high, and now that the dirt is wafhed from his fkin, we find his colour is a dark black : he is large featured, and has a flat nofe; his hair is the fame as the Afiatics, but very coarfe and ftrong: he is very good-natured, being feldom angry at any jokes that may be paffed upon him, and he readily imitates all the actions and geftures of every perfon in the governor's family ; he fits at table with the governor, whom he calls " Beanga" or Father; and the governor calls him " Dooroow" or Son: he is under no reftraint, nor is he the leaft aukward in eating-indeed, confidering the ftate of nature which he has been brought up in, he may be called a polite man, as he performs every action of bowing, drinking healths, returning thanks, &c. with the moft fcrupulous attention. He is very fond of wine, but cannot bear the fmell of fpirits, although they have often tried to deceive him, by mixing very weak rum or brandy and water, inftead of wine and water; but he would in-ftantly find out the deception, and on thefe occafions he was angry : his appetite is very good, for he foon began to perceive the difference between a full and a fhort allowance : he walks about conftantly with the governor, who, to make him fenuble of the confidence he placed in him, always took off a fmall fword which he ufually wore, and gave it to Wolle-warre, who put it on, and was not a little pleafed at this mark of confidence. His dreis is a jacket, made of the coarfeil red kerfey, and a pair of trowfers ; but on Sundays, he is drefl in nankeen. The governor's reafon for making him wear the thicl : . 1 fey is, that he may be fo feniiblc of the cold as not to be able to go without cloaths. Wolle CHAP. Wolle-warre has had a wife, who, it feems, died a fhort time before lie XV. .... t_--; was taken: he iometimes mentions this circumilance, and it occafions J79°- a momentary gloom; but this his natural gaiety foon diflipates: he ApM' firigs, when afked, but in general his fongs are in a mournful ftrain, and he keeps time by fwinging his arms: whenever afked to dance, he docs it with great readinefs ; his motions at firft are very flow, and are regulated by a difmal tune, which grows quicker as the dance advances, till at length he throws himfelf into the moft violent pofture, fhaking his arms, and ftriking the ground with great force, which gives him the appearance of madnefs. It is very probable that this part of the dance is ufed as a fort of defiance, as all the natives which were feen when we ■firft arrived at Port Jackfon, always joined this fort of dance to their vociferations of " woroo, woroo," go away. To what I have already faid, refpecting this man, a few more particulars will be added in the following vocabulary, which Mr. Collins permitted me to copy. The native boy lived with Mr. White, fhe furgeon, who, with that humanity for which he is diftinguifhed, cured both the boy and girl of a confluent fmall-pox, which fwept off hundreds of the natives in the winter of 1788. This dreadful diforder, which, there is no doubt, is a diftemper natural to the country, together with the difficulty of procuring a fubfiftance, renders the fitutation of thefe poor wretches truly miferable. The girl lived with the chaplain's wife, and both fhe and the boy were very tractable; but the girl at times would be out of temper, and could not bear to be thwarted. I fhall > Tfliall now add a vocabulary of the language, which I procured from chap. XV. Mr. Collins and Governor Phillip; both of whom had been veiy. altiduous in procuring words to compofe it; and as all the doubtful words are here rejected, it may be depended upon to be correct *. Allocy, To fay. Annegar, To ajk any thing. A-ra-goon, A zvar fljield. Ar-row-an, Diflant, or far off. B6e, or Bo-y, Dead. Bourbillie rcmul, Buried. i Bado-burra, , Bur-ra-ne, To-morrow. Baggy, The fkin. Boo-roo-an, An ifland. B6-ye, Death, or a ghofl. * This Vocabulary was much enlarged by Captain Hun tor. ■f It mould be obferved, that in fpeaking, Wolle-warre frequently changes the po of his words, as in Bado-burra : fo when walking one night from Profpevft-Hill to Rofe-Hill, we frequently (tumbled againft the roots, and he exclaimed " Were Wade, and Wade Were," bad wood, or bad roots, Cowull, 408 T R A N S A C CHAP Co\vull, The male of animals. XV. Car-re-nar-e-bille, To cough. v—' Cannadinga, To burn. Can-no-can, Any vegetable fit to eat. Ca-ma, To call. Carrc-millf-bado, Tofoak, or zvajh inzvater. Coing-bibo-la, The fun-rife. Coing-burra-go-lah, The fun-fet. Camurra, A day. Chiang, or Chang-ulah, To chew. Cot-ban-jow, Broken. Cot-banie, or Cot-barry, To cut. Carra-duin, A fijhing-linc. Canno, A belly-full. Cabcrra, The head. Cad-lwar, or Col-liang, The neck. Corungun, A nail. Carra-mah, A gut. Camye, A fpear, or lance. Ca-la-ra, A large fijh-gig, ivith four prongs. Ca-rall, The black cockatoo. Ca-ra-ga-rang, The fea. Ca-ra-goo-la, The ebb-tide. Cow-ee, To come. Can-ning, A cave in the rock. Can, A fuake, guana, or lizard. Ca-la-ba-ran, A large fword, or fymctar. Ca-ra-goon, A centipede. Cud-yal, Stnoak. Ca-ban, An egg. Cal-loo-a, To climb. Cur-ra-yura, The jky. Cot-ban-la, It is broke. Cot-ban, To break. Dicra, A bone. Din, and Din aillon, Women. Derra-bangcl-dion crclli bow, To tale off, or imitate. Dycnnibbc, Laughter. Dirc-nignan, Tofneeze. j T I O N S AT Didgcrry-goor, I thank you. Didgerry goor Wog.ul Banne, /thank you for a bit. Die, Here. j )iam-o-wau, Where are you ? Dara, The teeth. Diwarra, The hair. Da-mn-na Beril, The hand and fingers, Duralia, A beam. Doo-roy, The grafs. Doo-ra, A mufquite. Doo-ra-gy-a, To fpit. Door-a-lang, To prick. Dir-gally, To [cratch. Dar-ra-Burra-Booria, To pick the teeth. Dooroow, A fan. Eo-ra, Men or People. Era-mad-yc -winnia, To Jnatch. Eranga, T'other fide of the hill. Eri, Full. E1 a b i -1 a - bo, To make z vater. E-roo-ka, Tofwcat. E-li-mang, A fmall Jhicld, made of bark. Gall Gall, Small-pox. . Gnoowing, The night Gna-oong, The nofe ornament. Gnia-na, Toftgh. Go-wally, A Jhag, or cormorant. Goomun, The fir-tree. (jodie-by, Rotten, or decayed. Go-roon, A nwjcle. Gorey, "Juice. Gnia, I myfelf! Ger-rub-ber, Any thing that gives fire, as a gun, &c. Gorai, The ear. Gor-rook, The knee. Gading, The arm. Gwo-m-eil Gwo-meil, Feathers. Gnal-loa, 71?Jit. Go-ril, A parrot. Ga-ra-way, A white eockatoi. Girra-girra, A fijhing-gull. Gvvarra, The wind. Gur-gy, The fern-root Gon-yi, A houfe or hut. Goor-ing, A female child. Gvvec-ang, Fire. Gar-rec, To cough. Go-mi-ra, A hole. Goon-gan, A barbed fpear, for clofe fighting. Giu-go, A meteor, orfhootingfar. Gong-ara, Ornamentalfears on the hody. Murray-yannadah, Full moon. Marroway, To creep. Manioo, 71? pick up any thing. Moiun-glc, Thunder. Moor-ronc, A large fy that bites. Morunglc-birrong monglc, Struck with thunder and lightning. Murong, Sand. Man-ye-ro, / do not know. Mi, The eye. Mnrray-can-na dinga mi, The effccl of the hot' burning fun on the eye. Menoe, The foot. Me-noe-wa, The feet. Moo-tang, A fmall fz-gig. CHAP. XV. I790. April, G wee-rang, Ornaments made of reeds., andflrung Mur-tin, Milk. round the waif or neck. Gna-ra, A knot in a line. Goora, To drown. Gu-na-murra, A fink, or badfmcll. Gme-Gittim, To tickle. Go-roo-da, To fnore when aficcp. Ilga, 71? leap. Jamel Jamel, A haivk. Kalga, The mouth. Kamai, // fpear. Kibba, A rock. Ka-ra-ma, To feal. Mogo, A fione hatchet. Mulla, A man. Moola, Sick, to vomit. Maugerry, Fijhing. Murray, Every thing large. Murray-nowey, The Sirius. Murray-cara-diera, Swelled wrif. Mediey, I do not know. Maraerv, or Mar-ry-ang, The emu. Mullin-ow-ulc, To-morrow morning, Mcd-yanq, A fore. Ma-gra, Fifh. Mang-a, Lightning. My-ang-a, A fy. Mong, An ant. Man-a-ro, The navel. Moo-tang, Living. Me-gal, Tears. Ma-na-ran, The teeth of the kanguroo fuck in the head with gian as an ornament. Mawn, A ghojl or apparition. Moono, The bill of a bird. Mo-ro, A path or road. Min-ney, To fcretpe. Myi-mogro, 71? flmt the eyes. Maur, To take hold. Narrong, Any thing fmall. Nowey, A canoe. Narrong nowey, The Supply. Narra-dew, 71? hear. Noonc, Noiv. Nogur, The nofe, Naga, The liver. Nar-ra-mce, A net. 3 G Nan-ga-ra, CHAP. Nan-ga-ra, To Jleep. XV" Nabanq, Women s breajis V—v--' Nul-U, The forehead. 1790. Na-ro-wang, A paddle. April. Nang-oon, A bone or piece ofivood thrufl through the feptum of the nofe, Nam-mel, A ftnher for a fifh-line. Narri-keebu, Stand on the rock. Oona, The elbow. Pyal!a-pya-bow, To fight *r beat. Pan-nic-jeminga, To give one the hand. Patanga, An oyfier. Paddewafa, // fijh called a flat-head. Parry-buga, To-morrow. Paran-banie-diow, Hating [the acl of). Pa-boo-nang, A black ant. I\>.rra-berry, Empty. Par-ranglc, The throat. Pan-ne-ra, The blood. Pow-book, An owl. Pan-na, Rain. Pa-ta-ga-rang, The large grey kangaroo. Pil-lia, To laugh. Pe-mall, Earth or clay. Po-cul-bcc, The fag or iris of this country. Teura, A mufquito. Teura-dicny, Mufquito bite. Tag-go-rah-yago, 71? Jhiver. Taboa-millie, Painted white. Tonga-doro, You mufl fay. Tailing, or Ta-lang, The tongue. Tamira, The hand. Tarra, The leg. T.'.rong, The fhoulder. Troo-gad-ya, A large gull. Ta-ga-:a, Cold. Tingo, A dog. Tonga, 71? weep. Tang o-ra, To dance. Tc-rc-nang, 71? fneeze. Ta-ra, Teeth. Tei-ra-wan-a, A magpie, Ta-lang-a, 71? yawn. Ter-ral, Feathers ufed as an ornament for tlx-head. Tainan, A berry. Toon, The tail of a bird, or any animal. Tan-naing, Mine. [My property.) Ury-diow, 71? fit nearer any one. Wcring, Female. Womcrraa, To run. Womerra-bcrra, 71?jump* Were, Bad. Wadby, To ftvim. Warrc-wce, To fland. Wan tie-bow, 71? threw axvay. Waltegal, A large fifh. Woolamie, A fifij called a light-horfmatu Ware, Where. WTogan-minnering, Cutting off. Womar, A throiving-fick. Wea-ja-minga, Wea-jow-inia, Wianga, Relating to the giving of any thing. Wal-lu-merun-wea, Will you have any moref Walloo-bu-diown, 71? turn ivhen walking. Woroo-woroo ! Go away, or an exclamation of defiance. Willin, The lips. Wallo, The chin. Woo-da, // club. Wee-de, To drink or fuck. Wan-arce, The eyebrow. Wcc-lang, Lips. War-ra, Tie brcafi of a man. WVgan, A crow. Wir-gan, A bird called fry at: Wad-dy, A flick or tree. Wong-ara, Wong-ara, A male child. Wy-anga, A mother. Wo-la-ba, A young kangaroo. V/arcga|, A large dog. Wy-a-jenuriga, Give me. Wur-ra, A rat. Wil-bing, To fly, or the wing of a bird. Wa-ra-bce, A cockcl. Worgye, To whijlle. • Wya-bo-in-ya, Take this. Wearing, Tie female of animals. Wa, there. Wong-ara jug-ga-me, A child carried on the jhoulder. Yenu, Yenmow, Ycnminia, Yen, The termination of the verb—to zvalk. Yu-ru-gurra, Hungry. Yenna, Gone. Yennibun, Walking away. Yagoona, To-day, Yannadah paragi, New moon. Yery, or Curna, To throw. Yery-dioma, To fall down. Ya-ban, To fng. Yarre, or Ycrring, A beard. Yer-ra, A fzvord. Yen-our-yenna, Go away. Yo-ra, A number of people. Goang-un, A fpear about eight feet long, ivith four barbs on each fide.—The natives make ufe of this fpear when they advance near their adverfary, and the thrufl, or rather the ftroke, is made at the fide, r.s they raife the fpear up, and have a fhield in lite left-hand. A wound from this fpear muft be mortal. CHAP. XV. 1790. April. The only colours we have as yet difcovered they have any knowledge of, are—Red, Morjal; White, Taboo-; Black, Nana1; Green, Boo/ga. The females of each tribe are diftinguifhed by the word "Leon" added to the name which diftinguifhes the chief: it is fuppofed that the word " Gal" fignifies tribe, and the word preceding it is the word of diftincfion ; probably, it is the place where the tribe rclides. The following inftances may ferve to confirm thefe fuppofuions. M E N. Camera-gal Cadi-gal. Won-gal. Gwca-gal. Boora me di-gal. WOMEN. Cameragal-leon. Cadigal-leon. Wongal-leon. Gwea-gal-leon, Booramedigal-leon. MEN. Norongera-gal. Wallume-de-gal. Borogcgal-yurrey. Gommerigal-tongara. WOMEN. Norongera-gal-leon. Wallume-degal-leon. Borogegal-lcon. Gommerigal-lcon. G 2 We Wc have every reafon to believe, that the natives are divided into tribes, and that the perfons belonging to each tribe derive their name from the chief. We have heard much of Camme-ro-gaU who lives in the interior part of the country, and is a great warrior. Wolare-warre muft have had fome fevere conflicts with this chief, as he fliewed feveral fears which proceeded from wounds that he had received from him. The tribe of Camerra inhabit the north fide of Port Jackfon. The tribe of Cadi inhabit the fouth fide, extending from the fouth head to Long-Cove ; at which place the diltridt of Wanne, and the tribe of Wangal, commences, extending as far as Par-ra-mata, or Rofe-Hill. The tribe of Wallumede inhabit the north fliore oppofite Warrane, or Sydney-Cove, and are called Walumetta. I have already obferved, that the fpace between Rofe-Hill and Profpect-Hill is diftinguifhed by eight different names, although the diftance is only four miles. Wolare-warre has given us to underftand, that there are apparition* in the country which he calls " Mane:" he defcribes them as coming up with a ft range noife, and catching hold of any one by the throat i he made ufe of many words on this occafion, and pointed up to the fky ; he alfo informed us, that thefe apparitions finge the beards and the hair: this, he defcribes as a very painful operation, rubbing his face, after every application of the brand. They put-their dead, for fome time, in a.fire, after which they are laid at length in a grave, dug very clean out, the bottom being firft very carefully covered with long grafs, or fern; the body is then put in, and covered over with long grafs, and the grave is then filled with, earth, the mould rifing above it as in England.. No No figns of any religion have been obferved among them, yet they chap. are not entirely ignorant of a future ftate, as they fay the bones of the ^—v * dead are in the grave, and the body is in the clouds; or, as thofe we ^79^ have had with us may have been mifunderftood, they probably mean that the foul is in the clouds : Wolare-warre once afked the judge-advocate, if the white men went to the clouds alfo. The fun, moon, and ftars, they call Were (bad) : the native girl once went into very violent convulfions on feeing a falling ftar, and faid that every body would be deftroyed, although fome who were about her obferved, that *he particularly alluded to the " Murray nowey" the Sirius. The Emu, (Maroang) the Patagorang, and the Menagine, (a fmall animal) are all named " Goa-long," which term is fuppofed to mean an animal, as Wolarewarre ufes it in contradiftinclion to a bird or a £fh : °n being afked, if the Emu was a bird, (Binyan) he fhook his head, and faid, " Goa-lorig" He calls Governor Phillip, Beanga (father); and names himfelf, Dooroow (fon) : the judge and commiflary he calls &abunna (brother). He fings a great deal, and with much variety: toe following are fome words which were caught—" E eye at wangewah-" wandeliah chiango wandego mangenny wakey angoul barre boa lah U barrema." He throws the fpear ninety yards with great force and cxaclnefs. In counting the numerals, he cannot reckon beyond four; viz- One, Wogul, or Ya-ole; Two, Bulla and Yablowxe; Three, ^°orooi, or Brewe; Four, Cal-una-long. On laying down a fifth. °bjecl, he named it with the reft, " Marry-clioto." He calls the four principal winds by the following names:—The North, Boo-roo-way; *^he South, Baiu-marree; The Weft, Bow-wan; The Eaft, Gonie-mah. The chat. The natives fing an hymn or fong of joy, from day-break until fun-t^v-^—> rife. They procure fire with infinite labour, by fixing the pointed end i79°- of a round piece of flick into a hole made in a flat piece of wood, and ^pni' twirling it round fwiftly betwixt both hands, Aiding them at the fame time upwards and downwards until the operator is fatigued, when he is relieved by fome of his companions, who are all feated in a circle f°r that purpofe, and each takes his turn in the operation until fire is procured : this being the procefs, it is no wonder that they are never feefl without a piece of lighted wood in their hand. CHAPTER CHAPTER XVI., Lieutenant King fails for Batavia.—Meets with a dangerous fhoal.— Difcovers Tench's-Ifland.—A defcription of the inhabitants.—Prince William-Henry s Ifland defcribed.—Touches at Kercolang.—A dfcrlption of the inhabitants, their cloathing and utenfls.—Pajjes through the Streights of Salayer.—Arrival at Batavia.—Interview with the governor. -—Batavia defcribed.—Situation and extent.—Manners and cufloms of the inhabitants.—Government and police.—Annual exports.—Departure from Batavia.—Mortality amongfl the fai/ors.—sir rival at the Ijle of France.—An account of that ifland.—Sails from the Ijle of France. —Arrival in the EngliJJj Channel. AVING received the difpatches for his Majefty's principal Secre- cif ap. tary of State, and for the Secretary of the Admiralty, from Go- ,__ *' vernor Phillip, together with his order for me to go on board the Supply, 1790. and to proced in her to Batavia, and from thence, to make the beft of my vvay to England, with the above difpatches, and Lieutenant Ball having alfo received his orders, I took my leave of the governor, and at noon on the 17th of April, we fet fail; carrying with us the fervent prayers 17. of thofe we left behind, for our fafety. From this time till the 22d, 22. we had variable weather, the wind in gciKral from the fouth-cad. Lieutenant Ball was directed to call at Norfolk-Ilknd, if it did not occafion chap, occafion him too much lofs of time ; but, as the winds feemed to hang xvi i_. -.-*._' to the eaftward, there was every probability of lofing at leaft a fortnight; '79°- and, as the Supply did not carry any thing which could be of the leaft A^u!* afliftance to thofe on the ifland, he thought proper to proceed on the voyage, and accordingly bore up in order to go to the weftward of the fhoal feen by the Golden-Grove, in latitude 290 25/ fouth, and 159° 59' eaft longitude : Lieutenant Shortland alfo faw another fhoal, as hath already been mentioned, which may probably be the fame, if they exift '• ■this, however, feems to be a matter of doubt, as Lieutenant Ball, in July, 1789, cruized in thefe and the adjacent latitudes and longitudes for a fortnight, and could not fee the leaft appearance either of an iiland or lhoale; although Mr. Blackburn, the mafter of the Supply* who was at that time on board the Golden-Grove, is very confident that a fhoal wras feen in that veffel. We had very heavy gales of wind .28, from eaft until the 28th, with violent fqualls, attended with rain : the air in general thick and hazy, and a high hollow fea running. At one o'clock on the 28th, we perceived a great alteration in the fea, which was become fo fmooth, that at four o'clock it was, comparatively fpeaking, fmooth water: at half paft five, the man who was ftationed at the maft-head, faw breakers in the fouth-eaft, which were found to be a fhoal, bearing from fouth-eaft by eaft to eaft-fouth-eaft, about feven miles diftant : it appeared to trend fouth-fouth-eaft and north-north-weft ; and the north end feemed to break off fuddenly in a fmall bluff. The man at the maft-head had feen this fhoal a confiderable time before he fpoke of it, and, when afked why he did not mention it fooner, he faid that he took it for the reflection of the fctting-fun ; forgetting that the fun, if it had been vifible, fet to the weftward : this 9 circumftance circumftance occafioned Lieutenant Ball to name it " BoobyJboa/;" its chap. latitude is 210 24/ fouth, and the longitude, by the time-keeper, 159° t 24' eaft of Greenwich. Immediately after pafling this fhoal, we found J79Q. the fame high hollow fea running as wc had in the morning. At noon on the 3d of May, our latitude was 120 13' fouth, and the May. longitude, by the time-keeper, 1610 33' eaft. We were now drawing 3' near the fituation in which Lieutenant Shortland had difcovered land, and being furrounded by birds, and a number of trees floating about the veflel, we were induced to fuppofe ourfelves not far diftant from it. In the evening of the 4th we founded, but got no ground with 1 50 fathoms 4, of line. The next morning high land was feen, bearing from north- 5. north-weft to weft-north-weft, feven or eight leagues diftant; it feemed to trend about north-north-eaft, and fouth-fouth-weft. At noon, the latitude was 11" yf fouth, and the longitude 162" 34' eaft : the northern-moft land bore north by weft, five leagues diftant: it appeared like a fmall ifland covered with trees; and in the center of it there is a con-fpicuous mount, formed by fome very high trees : the land to the weftward, which extends from this ifland as far as north-weft a quarter north, is low, and in clumps like iflands. The weather now was very hot and fultrv, with dark heavy clouds all round the horizon : we had alfo a great deal of thunder and lightning, attended with heavy rain. In the afternoon of the 6th, we perceived the northernmoft land to be ^ two fmall iflands, which appeared to trend north-north-eaft and fouth -fouth-weft ; the main land lying a little to the weftward of them. The cafternmoft of thefe two iflands Lieutenant Ball named Sirius's-Ifland $ it is fituated in 10'' 52' fouth latitude, and 162° 30' eaft longitude : the other was named Mafley's-Ifland. We obferved by the land, that a very ftrong current, or tide, fit us faft to the northward. It is unfor- 3 H tunate tunate that the changeable ftate of the wind and weather did not permit us to range this coaft, by hauling in with the land, as fomething might have probably been difcovered, without occafioning any lofs of time. In the evening we had very heavy fqualls, attended with rain, thunder, and lightning. At eight o'clock the next morning, we faw land, which had the appearance of a large high ifland, lying along the fliore : Lieutenant Ball named it Smith's-Ifland; it is fituated in q° 44' fouth latitude, and 1610 54' eaft longitude. On the 8th, at day-light, the land bore from weft by fouth to fouth by weft, feven or eight leagues diftant: Smith's Ifland then bearing fouth-fouth-eaft ten leagues. This land in general is very high, and appears well wooded: there is the appearance of a number of openings, refembling bays or harbours ; but our diftance from fhore was too great to afcertain any obfervation of that kind. At noon our latitude was 0/ oo' fouth, and the longitude 161r> 41' eaft ; and the land trending away to the north-weft, it was evident that we had rounded the eaft part of that ifland which Lieutenant Shortland coafled on its fouth fide, from the latitude of 10" 44' fouth longitude 161° 41' call, to 6° 55' fouth latitude, and 156' 30' eaft longitude. As Lieutenant Shortland made the land on the oppofite fide of this ifland in latitude ion 44' fouth, longitude 161° 30' eaft, and the Supply being this day in latitude 9' oo' fouth, longitude i6i°4i/caft; there remains a fpace between the fituation of the two veffels, which, reduced, to bearings and diftances from thefe latitudes and longitudes, will give fouth 6° eaft ; diftance 104 miles : now, the Supply was ten leagues off ihore, and, admitting the Alexander (Lieutenant Shorthand's fhip,) to have been four leagues', it will make the breadth of the ifland 62miles, and. and its length and bearings will be fouth 570 eaft, and north 57" weft, 436 miles. The eaftern extremity of this land is an ifland about 18 miles in circuit, lying at a fmall diftance from the main iiland: I have before obferved that it was named Sirius-Ifland, between which, and the Queen Charlotte's Iflands, there cannot be many leagues, fuppofmg Captain Carteret's longitude to have been right. The north-eaft coaft of this ifland Lieutenant Ball named " Balls Maiden Land-" and the paffage between Sirius and Queen Charlotte's Iflands, " Supply s Pajjdge" At day-light in the morning of the 9th, land was feen, bearing from fouth to weft, eleven leagues diftant; it was very high, and there appeared to be a number of openings in it. Our latitude at noon on the 10th, was 70 16' fouth, and the longitude 162° 23' eaft. We now daily found the veffel fet confiderably to the northward and weftward, and on the 16th fhe was fet 48 miles weft-north-weft during the 24 hours. A different kind of fea-fowl was feen about the veffel to any we had hitherto met with ; it was of the ganet kind j the back, wings, and head being a gloffy black, and the breaft entirely white. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 19th, wc faw an ifland bearing weft by north fix or feven leagues diftant: the latitude at noon, was i° 44' fouth, and the longitude 150° 39' eaft. With a fine breeze at eaft-fouth-eaft, wc fteered for the ifland, as it lay directly in our courfe, and foon perceived that it was inhabited, as we faw a number of people ftanding on the fouth point, and a great many canoes were coming off" to meet us but as the veffel approached them they paddled towards the fhore; yet they 3 PI 2 feemed CHAP, feemed defirous to have fome communication with us, and the vedel XVI. being hove to, in a fhort time they came near us, but no invitation or 1190' intreaty could prevail on them to come along-fide : at length, two of the canoes, which had feven men in each, and two others, with two men each, came clofe under the flern, but none of them would venture on board, and it was with great difficulty they were perfuaded to come near enough to receive a firing of beads which were let down over the ftern ; after this, they all paddled on fliore. During the time thefe canoes were near the veflel, the beach on the iiland was covered with natives; and on the fouth point of the ifland, a man ftood alone, with a long pole in his hand, which had fomething large at the end of it, and which he feemed to ufe as a fignal to thofe in the canoes. Thefe canoes appeared to be made out of a large tree, and were well fhaped, with a hook made of wood at each end, the ufe of which we could not poflibly guefs : the largefl of them appeared to be about 28 feet long. Each canoe had a long out-rigger, to prevent them from overfetting. The natives who were in the canoes, were the ftoutcft and healthiefl looking men I ever beheld; their fkin was perfectly fmooth and free from any diforder : they were quite naked, and of a copper colour; their hair rcfembled that of the New-Hollanders, Some cf their beards reached as low as the navel, and there was an appearance of much art being ufed in forming them into long ringlets ; fo that it fhould feem as if the prevailing fafhion on this ifland was that of keeping the beard well combed, curled, and oiled. Two or three of the men had fomething like a bead or bone fufpended to a firing, which was fattened round the neck. The fize and very healthy appearance of thefe people excited our admiration very much ; indeed it is wonderful how fo fmall a fpot of ground can fupport the vaft number of inhabitants we faw on the the iiland, all of whom appeared equally ftrong and handfomc as thofe chap. who were in the canoes. The ifland cannot be more than two miles < . m circumference: it is low, but entirely covered with trees, many of 1790. which are the cocoa-nut; we likewife faw a number of large trees May* which bore a very fine red bloffom, but the red was fo very confpicuous, that I am inclined to think the leaves were of that colour. Thefe trees reached to the margin of a very fine fandy beach, which entirely furrounds the ifland; a great number of canoes were lying on the beach, and, from the number of natives we faw there, betides what were in the canoes, there cannot be lefs than a thoufand inhabitants on the ifland. Lieutenant Ball named this place Tench's I/land, after Captain Watkin Tench of the marines : it is fituated in i° 39' fouth latitude, and 150° 31' eaft. longitude. After lying-to near an hour, and finding we could have no farther intercourfe with the natives, without confiderable lofs of time, We bore up and kept on our courfe, fleering weft by north. At fun-fet, we faw another ifland bearing weft by north, Tench's Ifland bearing eaft half north. The next morning at day-light, the iftand feen the pre- zo* ceding evening, bore from fouth by weft, to weft by fouth, about three leagues diftant; on this, we altered our courfe, in order to run along the fliore. This ifland is pretty high, and appears to be about 70 miles hi circumference, if I may judge from the length of its eaft fide, which I meafured by angles. It is well wooded, and there were a number of clear cultivated tracts of ground, on which fomething was growing that had the appearance of Indian corn, or fugar-cane. As we ran along fhore, we could not perceive any place of fhelter for a veffel on the eaft fide of the iiland, but there probably is on fome part of it. The ifland IS furrounded by a fandy beach, on which the furf beats with fome violence: a number of canoes were lying on the beach, and fome parts of the fliore were covered with the natives; but none of them attempted • to 1790. May. 422 A VOYAGE T 0 C|I,A,1>* to come off", although the veflel was not more than a mile and a half from the fliore. /We faw feveral houfes amongft the trees, which appeared to be large and well conftructcd. This ifland has a luxuriant and picturefque appearance, and there can fcarcely be a doubt but it is very fertile and well peopled. The natives were quite naked, and feemed to be the f ime fort of people we had feen at Tench's Ifland j and their canoes were apparently of the fame conftruction. At ten o'clock in the forenoon, being abreaft of the fouth-eaft point of the ifland, we bore up and made fail, fleering weft-north-weft. Lieutenant Ball requcfling me to name this iiland, I called it Prince William-Henry Ifland, in honour of his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Clarence. In making this ifland from the eaftward, a very high mount rifes in the center of it, which Lieutenant Ball named Mount Phillip, in honour of Governor Phillip : it lies well-north-weft from Tcnch's-Ifland, and is fituated in i° 32' fouth latitude, and 149'' 30' eaft longitude. 22. At midnight on the 22d, wc had a perfect deluge of rain, but it did not continue more than a quarter of an hour. We had now a vaft number of tropic birds and ganets round the veffel: the fea was covered with trees of the largeft fize, which had both roots and branches to them; there were alfo cocoa-nut trees, fugar-cane, bamboo, and a variety of other drift wood : many of the trees were fo large, that we could plainly fee them at the diftance of two leagues : moft of the roots lay to the weft-north-weft, from which circumftance, and the veflel being confiderably to the weftward of account by the time-keeper, we were induced to fuppofe that a ftrong current fet in that direction. We June. 4. fleered weft-north-weft until the 4th of June, with moderate breezes from the eaftward, and pleafant weather : the fa was conftantly covered with large entire trees, junks of wood, bamboos, and a variety of Other 1 drift drift wood and rock weed. Our latitude at noon on the 4th, was a." chap. xvi. 33' north, and the longitude, by the time-keeper, 127° 58' eafl', '—->--> 1790. June. At day-light the next morning, we faw an iiland bearing north-weft, 5. which is called Kcrcolang in the charts; finding we could not weather the fouth end, we bore tip to go to the northward of it. At noon, it bore from north 68° weft to fouth 410 weft: our latitude was 4'1 25' north, and the longitude, by lunar obfervation, 126° 50' eaft. Another htand, called Kcrolang in the charts, bore from north to north 14° eaft j having a remarkable hummock on the eaft end of it. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 6th, being clofe under the eaft c, flde of Kercolang, we faw a canoe with a matt fail coming towards us : the natives foon came under the ftern without any figns of fear. Then* Were twelve Malays in this canoe, who were all cloathed : the outriggers of the canoe, which were long and flight, would not permit them to some alongfide, but a jacket and a hatchet being given them, and figns niade for them to go on fhore and bring fomething to cat, they left the Veflel and went towards the fliore, where we followed them. Before they landed, a ftill larger canoe, with fifteen Malays in it, went to the canoe which had left us; and as we were not more than two miles from the fliore, Lieutenant Ball and myfelf went in the jolly-boat and joined the two canoes ; on this, two of the Malays jumped out of the canoes into our boat, and went immediately to the oars : fuch a ftep could not be mifunderftood, it was faying, " we put ourfelves entirely c< in your power without any precaution." When we came near the heach, obferving the furf to break on it, we made figns for the canoes to go on fliore, and bring us fome cocoa-nuts and plantains, as we faw Vaft quantities on the trees. They were very defirous for our boat to land ; CXVIP' ^n^» but tnat not being agreed to, they left a native in the jolly-boat, *~—v J and one of our men went on fliore in the canoe : he foon returned with feveral canoes which were laden with cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, June. . . fweet potatoes, rice, a little flour, and feveral other articles, all which we purchafed for axes and other barter: foon afterwards we returned on board, and were followed by upwards of an hundred canoes. At noon, a breeze fpringing up from the northward, we made fail, and many of the canoes followed us to a confiderable diffance. The latitude of the north end of Kercolang is 4" 28', and the longitude of the center 126" 31' eafl. This ifland is between eighty and one hundred miles in circumference, and is in general of a very good height: the face of the country feems to be flcep hills and extenfive vallies, and every part of it was covered with trees and verdure : there were alfo fome cultivated grounds which had a very pleafant appearance. Thefe Malays wore no erid or crefs, nor did we fee any offenfive weapons amongfl them, excepting two which were on the beach, who had fomething like halberts in their hands, but whether they were of iron or wood we could not t'ifcern. The houfes Hood on pofls ; they appeared to be well built, and neatly thatched: their canoes were alfo neatly made, being hollowed out of trees, with bamboo outriggers on each fide to prevent them from ovcrfetting ; a piece of wood is left at the flern, which projects like a proa, to break the water before it comes to the bow : each canoe has a mail, on which they hoifl a fquare piece of matt as a fail. Their hfhing-hooks and lines are moflly European, and it is poflible that there is a Dutch rehdent on the ifland, as we faw a fmall Dutch flag placed before a houfe to the northward of the place where we went with the boat; though it is natural to fuppofe, that if any European had been there, he would have come to the boat, or that the natives would have made us underftand there was one on the ifland. The 8 cloathing B A T A V I A. 425 cloathing thefe people in general wore, was made of a coarfe kind of chap. xvi. callico, though fome of them wore filk, and moif of them had fome- «—-v—j thing refembling a turban round their heads; a few, indeed, wore a '79°« Chinefe pointed hat. There can be no doubt but the Dutch fupply ^unc* thefe people with cloathing and other necelfaries, which, of courfe, muft be for fome production of the ifland. I fliewed one of the natives fome cloves, and he gave me to underftand that they had the fame. i do not think the Dutch fend very often to this ifland, from the extreme avidity the natives Ihewed in purchasing our hatchets and cloathing : they are mild, and apparently a quiet people, and the confidence they placed in us was fuflicient to prove that ftrangers were not unwelcome guefts among them. From the 6th to the ioth, we had frefli gales of wind at weft, with io» very heavy fqualls and much rain, which often obliged us to clew all up. During the laft four days we only got eight leagues on our courfe, and there being every appearance of a continuation of wefterly winds, (this being the fouth-weft moufoon in the China feas) witii heavy fqualls, or rather tornados of wind and rain, which endangered the mafts: on the ioth, Lieutenant Ball relinquifhed the purpofe of going through the {freights of Macajjer, and adopted that of making the paffage between Celebes and Gilolo, through the Moluccas and the ftreights of Salayer; accordingly, at fix in the morning, we bore up for the fouth point of Lirog, which lay fouth-eaft by eaft twelve or fourteen leagues diftant. At day-light on the 12th, we faw the iiland of Morotia, which bore tu from fouth 310 eaft, to fouth-eaft. At noon, we were in 20 36' fouth latitude, and 127° 51' eaft longitude: in a chart of Hamilton Moore's, there is an ifland without a name laid down exaclly in that fituation ; but, as the weather was very clear, and no fuch land could 3 * be be feen, the exigence of it is very doubtful. The weather was now extremely pleafant, with light winds from fouth by weft to fouth-eaft. At noon on the 14th, Gilolo bore from fouth by weft half weft, to eaft by north : there is a chain of fmall iflands laying the whole length of thefe bearings about two leagues from Gilolo ; between which and that iiland, there appears to be good fhelter. On the 16th, we were directly oppbfite three remarkable conical hills; they are very high ; the fouth -ernmoft lies in i° 30'north latitude, and 1270 5'eaft longitude. The land near this fituation is high and well wooded, with fome cultivated fpots: the fliore appears bold to. At midnight, we had a perfect deluge of rain, attended with loud thunder and very fierce lightning, which lafted two hours ; after which, the weather became lerene and pleafant. The next morning, the ifland of Ternate bore fouth-fouth-eaft, and a little to the northward of it there appears to be a large and fafe harbour, on the ifland of Gilolo, which now bore eaft by fouth five or fix leagues diftant. Ternate rifes in a high conical mount; its latitude is oo" 50' north, and the longitude 1270 4' eaft. A very pleafmt little ifland lies about two miles to the north-north-weft of Ternate, which, in the charts, is called Heri-y it is pretty high, and' not more than two miles in circumference. The cultivated fpots on this ifland, contrafted with the brown fhade of the trees, and' the inter-fperfed fituation of the houfes, give this little fpot a moft picturefque appearance : it appeared, as well as Ternate, to be in a perfect ftate of cultivation; and from the number of houfes we faw, they muft both be well inhabited. The latitude, at noon, was i° 1' north, and the longitude 1260 49' weft: fieri then bore fouth-eaft by eaft; the peak of Ternate, fouth-eaft half fouth ; the fouth point of Tidere, fouth by eaft ; and Makian, fouth-fouth-eaft. All thefe iflands are very high; they rife in peaks, and are well cultivated. We faw a vaft number of fires on 011 Ternate, winch probably were lighted for a fignal. Berides the chap. . . XVI- ifland of Makian, which is not more than two miles in circumference, —j there are a number of other fmall iflots, which form a confiderable I/9°' June. group, and they were all cultivated. A number of boats were puffing from one iflot to another, with fome Europeans in them. The weather was exceflive hot and fultry ; the thermometer, when in the open air and (hade, being 91°. On the 19th, we perceived a great ripling on the water, which ap- i«. pearcd to be a ftrong current, and we afterwards' found it had fet the veflel confiderably to the weftward. At noon, the north-weft point of Mancre or Batachina bore eaft-north-eaft nine leagues diftant; its latitude is o° 16' fouth, and the longitude 1260 41' eaft. At noon on the 20th, an ifland a head, which we took to be Pulo Oubi, bore eaft half zu# fouth about twelve leagues diftant, and Stemo Sulla, fouth-fbuth-weft thirteen leagues : the latitude was i° 17' fouth, and the longitude 1260 2 2/ eaft. Hitherto, we had found the currents fet us to the weftward ; but in the morning of the 21ft, a ftrong ripling of a current fet the zu veflel confiderably to the eaft-fouth-eaft, which may eallly be accounted for: the paffage between New Guinea and Aigcu was quite open, and bore from us fouth-eaft, and I think that the current we now felt is an out-fet; and as we had experienced a foutherly current ever fince we made the ifland of Morotia, it may be prefumed that there is an indraught between the Celebes and Gilolo, and an out-fet between Gilolo, New Guinea, and Aigeu, which is called " Pat's Paffage" In the afternoon, the boat was hoifted out in order to try the current, when it was found to fet .eaft by fouth, at the rate of a mile and an half ari hour; however, the current among thefe iflands is by no means 3 I 2 certain, CHAP, certain, as we found, on the 22d, a ftrong current or tide fetting to the XVI. & b _—v---' north-weft. A great number of very large whales were feen, which June' moved exceeding flow, and came very near the veflel. At noon, the 22. center of Burro bore fouth, and the fouth point of Sulla Beffi> north 760 weft. Burro is a very high ifland, and may be feen at the diftance of twenty leagues with great eafe. As the following latitudes and longitudes "were taken with great ex.--actnefs, they perhaps may not be unacceptable. South latitude. Eaft longitude.. o / o / Eaft point of Burro - - 3 7 126 38 Weft point of ditto - - 3 4 125 41 North-eaft point of Sulla Mangol 2 o 126 3 South point of Sulla Befli - 2 29 125 57 In the afternoon of the 23d, being clear of the fouth point of Burro,, we found a ftrong fouth-eaft trade, with which we fteered fouth-fouth-weft. We pafled a. great quantity of drift wood, and fome very large trees with both roots and branches to them, fome of which were fo large as to be taken for veffels. 55, In the morning of the 25th, we faw two fmall iflands bearing fouth- eaft about fix miles diftant; we imagined them to be the northernmoft of the fmall iflands, called Touchaeilly, in the charts: foon afterwards, we faw land bearing fouth-weft, which we took to be Bouton, but we foon perceived it to be three iflands lying nearly north and fouth. At this time, our longitude, by the time-keeper, was 1230 39' eanV> anc* the / BATAVIA. 429 the latitude, by two altitudes, was c° -26' fouth, Concluding the iflands chap. XVI. we faw in the morning were thofe of St. Matthew's, and the others '-^—' Touchaeilly, we bore up in order to run between the northernmoft and \19°' f 1 June. middle of three iflands in fight. In our run from Burro to St. Matthew's Ifland, we found a ftrong current fetting to the fouth-eaft. St. Matthew's Iflands are fituated in 50 23' fouth latitude, and 123" 51' eaft longitude. With a moderate breeze from the fouth-eaft, we fteered weft-fouth-weft between the Toucaheilly Iflands; and at noon on the 26th, we pafled a fandy key, which had a tuft of green bufties on its 26. north end, and its fouth end runs off in a long fpit for three or four miles, on which the fea breaks very high. Thefe iflands are covered with wood, and well cultivated. At four o'clock in the afternoon we hove to, and foon afterwards a fmall proa came alongfide loaded with cocoa-nuts, which we purchafed. The people in this canoe gave us to underftand, that the ifland on our ftarboard hand was called Combado, and that on the larboard Toucambafo. At half paft four, we made fail? and foon afterwards, a man, who was ftationcd at the maft-head, faid he faw a fhoal a-head of the veffel; on this we looked out, and faw a reef about fix miles diftant, extending from the weft-north-weft as far as the eye could reach in a fouth-eaft direction : on this, we hauled the wind and lay under Combado during the night. The next morning, wre 7,7,. made fail and fteered weft-north-weft, looking out for the fhoal and running along its eaftern fide about four miles diftant. This reef is very large, and its eaftern fide is bound with rugged rocks, and when the water is fmooth there is no breaker on it. At four in the afternoon, we rounded the fhoal at two miles diftance, and fteered for the fouth end of Bouton, which we pafled early the next morning, and foon. afterwards ag}, pafled the ftreights, fleering weft half north. When you are to the eaftward of Camborra, the entrance of the ftreights of Bouton may be 4. known 28. chat, known by three fmall iflands which lie off the caff point that forms the -v--^ ftreights, one of which is large, and the other two are fmall: off tnc '79°- large one lie feveral rocks, but at no great diftance. The only chart we J11110' had on board, which took any notice of thefe iflands and the fhoal, was one of Hamilton Moore's, which we found tolerably correct, except in ibme initances where the iflands are mifplaced, as St. Matthew's Ijlandsy Toucambejjisy the fouth end of Bouton and Kercolang, with fome other trifling differences; however, upon the whole, it may be called a good chart. At day-light, the iiland of Salayer bore from fouth 400 welt to north 8o° eafl, and the entrance of the ftreights north 70'1 well. On ■entering the ftreights, wTe found a very ftrong ripling of the fea, which we were apprehenfive were overfills y but we found it was a ftrong current fetting to the weftward. At noon, being through the ftreights, we "hauled up weft by fouth. The beft paffage through thefe ftreights is between the two fmall iflands, the fouthernmoft of which lies clofe to Salayer. The ifland of Salayer appears to be well inhabited, and cultivated to advantage, as each piece of ground was fenced in, and the houfes appeared to be very good ones. The courfe from the ftreights of Salayer to Cambona is eaft by fouth eighty-four miles: they lie weft by north half north, and eaft by fouth half fouth, about five miles through -. the entrance to the weftward is in 50 45' fouth latitude, and 120° 3' eafl longitude. This latitude, was determined by a good meridional altitude, and the longitude by the time-keeper and lunar obfervations, fo that there is a very confiderable miftake in Hamilton Moore's Chart refpecting the pofition of thefe ftreights. At three in the afternoon, a man, who was ftationed at the maft-head, faid he faw a great ripling, and on looking over the fide, the bottom was diftinctly feen; on this, we hauled off to the fouthward, and hove the lead, but got no ground, and the veffel going very faft, we immediately loft fight of 2 the the bottom, and foon afterwards fleered weft by fouth. At the time chap. xvi we were on this bank, the fouth end of Salayer bore fouth-fouth-eaft, «—^ and the north end, eaft. In my opinion, fhips going through the »79<*< ftreights of Salayer from the weftward, fhould bring the north point of ^ Salayer to bear eaft, or eaft half north, with which courfe there could he no rifk from that bank,. We now fteered weft by fouth, and having run fixty-fix miles in that direction from the ftreights of Salayer, on the* morning of the 29th, we faw fome high land on the Celebes, bearing 29. north-eaft nine leagues diftant; this muft be the land between the fouth-weft point of Celebes, and the iflands called, by Captain Carteretr Tonakiky, fo that the end of Celebes from the ftreights of Salayer to the fouth-weft point cannot be more than twenty leagues, as Mr. Dal-rymple has already obferved in a fmall pamphlet. Lieutenant Ball directed the veffel to be kept north-north-weft, in order to make the land plainer; but the charts we had on board differed fo much in the pofition and extent of the land, and fome time might perhaps be loft in looking for Tonakiky, to take a departure from, Mr. Ball determined on bearing up and running in that parallel of latitude which was likelieft to keep the veffel clear of danger, viz. 50 45' or 50 50" fouth. At noon, the obferved latitude was 5° 48' fouth, and the longitude 118-- * 44' eaft. At half paft two in the afternoon, having/leered weft twelve 3* miles fince noon, we faw what we took for Tonyn\ .Iflands* or Sarras, bearing north. Hamilton Moore's chart places the fouth end of this fhoal in 50 c8' fouth, but it cannot be farther than 50 40' fouth at moft, as we were now in latitude 50 48', and the ifland could only be feen from the maft-head, bearing north : the longitude of the fouth end of thefe iflands and fhoal (if there be any) is 118" 11' eaft. On the 30th, at ten in the forenoon, we faw the great Solombo bearing north by weft half weft two leagues diftant. On founding, we ftruck the ground with* with 32 fathoms, over an oozy bottom. The next morning, the ifland of Lptbeck bore from fouth 140 weft to fouth 550 weft, five leagues diftant. This ifland is confiderably mifplaced in the charts. A very good altitude was got at eight in the morning, for the time-keeper, and a very good meridional altitude was alfo taken for the latitude; which, with the bearings of Lubeck in the morning and at noon, places it in j° 50' fouth latitude, and 1120 22' eaft longitude. On the 3d, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the ides of Cariman Java were feen, bearing fouth 790 weft. During the night, the weather was very fqually, attended with much thunder and lightning. The latitude of Cariman Java is 5" 56' fouth, and the longitude 1 io° 12' eaft. At half paft three o'clock in the morning of the 5th, we faw a fmall ifland bearing weft half fouth, not more than a mile and a half from the veflel; on this we hauled our wind to the fouthward, and tacked ■occafionally until day-light. We founded with twenty-fix fathoms, oyer a bottom of blue mud. This ifland is called in the charts Pub Packit : it is very low and covered with trees. There are two iflands laid down in Dunn's and Moore's charts, but we only faw one ifland, and a rocky reef: this'iftand is laid down in Dunn's chart in 6° 180 fouth, but its real latitude is 50 50' fouth : this miftake had very near proved fatal to the Supply, but it being a moon-light night, the danger was difcovered, though at the diftance of two miles only. Ships bound to the weftward, or to Batavia from Carimon Java, fliould fteer weft half north, or weft by north, to avoid the fhoal to the northward of Pulo Packit. In the afternoon, feeing a brig at anchor under the land, we bore up in order to fpeak her, and in ftanding in, had regular foundings to feven fathoms. I went with Mr. Ball on board the brig, where we learned that the point of Pamonakan bore fouth-fouth-weft from us; on this, we Wc returned on board the Supply and made fail, and in the afternoon chap. rr j xvi. of the 6th, we anchored in Batavia Road. Upwards of thirty Dutch u.—,— mips were lying there, bcfides a number of fnows and Chinefe junks. July. 6. The next morning, I waited on the general, at the requefl of Lieu- 7. tenant Ball, and fettled the falute, which took place at five in the evening, when the Supply faluted the fort with nine guns, which were returned by an equal number. On the 8th, Lieutenant Ball waited on the general, accompanied by s, the Shebander and myfelf. As the general could not fpeak any other language than Dutch, and the Shebander could not fpeak fufficient Englifh to explain himfelf, I was obliged to interpret between Lieutenant Ball and the latter; and I beg here to remark, that during this conver-fation, which was in the general's office, we were not afked to fit down; indeed, had the general been polite enough to have made the offer, there was not a fecond chair in the room; fo unufual a thing is it to be feated in the general's prefence, when talking to him on bufinefs. After Lieutenant Ball had fignified his bufinefs, and the fervice he Was fent on, a number of frivolous enquiries were made refpecting the fetlement at New South Wales ; and much aflonifhment was expreffed, that we came from that country and could not tell what became of the Bounty, Lieutenant Bligtis flip. No other anfwer could be got, than that the council were to be re-Suefted to permit Lieutenant Ball to purchafe whatever he wanted, and to hire a veffel to carry what he might want to Port Jackfon : this being fettled we took our leave. The Shebander drew up a requeff, which 2 K Lieutenant chap. Lieutenant Bali fencer, and the next day it was presented to the council* XVI. —J (at which the director-general prefided, on account of the general'* ■79°- indifpolition) when every thing was granted j but they refuted to inter* ■ ^ fere in taking up a veflel, or in purchafing provifions, laying, that thofe matters were to be managed by Lieutenant Ball. As every veffel here either belonged to the company, or were too flimfy to go on fuch a voyage, it was for a fliort time doubtful whether one could be procured: at length, the Shebander hearing that a fnow of 250 tons or upwards lay at a port called Samarrc, on the eafl fide of Java, he offered her to Lieutenant Ball; faying that he would purchafe her and fit her out completely, if Mr. Ball would contract with him to pay eighty rix-dollars a ton for the voyage; the Shebander to take all rifques upon himfelf, with refpecf. to the lofs of the veffel. As the neceflity for a fupply of provifions was very great, and as there was no other veffel to be procured, Lieutenant Ball was obliged to make the agreement, and the fnow was fent for. Provifions were eafily purchafed, and at a cheap rate : very excellent beef and pork at fix-pence per pound. Of flour, there w^as little to be procured, as all the people here eat rice, Europeans as well as natives. Batavia has been fo very well and Co fully defcribed in Captain Cook's firfl voyage, that any attempt of mine to defcribe this vaft and fplendid fettlement may be deemed fuperfluous; however, as thefe pages may probably fall into the hands of fome who have read no other account, I fhall fubjoin what few remarks occurred to me during my flay there. According to the beft accounts I could obtain, the city and its environs cover a fpace of eight fquare miles: it is fituated about half a mite from the fea-fhore, and has communication with it by a canal, which will 'will admit vefTcls of eight feet draught of water. The city {lands on a flat, which extends forty leagues to the foot of the nearelf mountains. Two large rivers, which are divided into a number of canals, run through all the principal ftreets of the city, and on both fides of the different roads: thefe canals are navigable for large boats; they arc planted with trees on each fide, which are kept cut in the form of a fan. The ftreets are all drawn at right angles, and are in general wide, with very good pavements; along the fides of which a double row of trees are planted, which greatly prevents the circulation of air, and tends very ■much to increafc the natural unhealthinefs of the place. Within the paft four years, moft of the canals which contained putrid water have been filled up, and great attention is now paid to removing dirt and ■other nuifances. All the houfes are well built; indeed, fome of them are magnificent buildings, and are finifhed with elegant neatnefswhich, added to the great cleanlinefs obferved by the inhabitants, renders them very agreeable retreats from the intenfe heat which is conftant here. No European can do without a carriage, the paint of which, and his other equipage, denote the rank of the owner; to whom the neceffary •fefpect muff be paid by people of an inferior rank for a noncompliance with this cuftom, a fine is levied by the Fifcal. The town is but indifferently defended, as the fortifications are irregular and extenfive, and the walls (which are painted) are very low: it is furrounded with a deep and wide canal, but the beft defence of this fettlement is its extreme unhealthinefs. The citadel, or caftle, ftands on the right of the eity : in it are depofited a vaft quantity of cannon and other munitions °f war : the governor-general, and the reft of the company's fervants, have apartments in it, and here the governor and council meet twice a week, to tranfacT: public bufinefs. 3 K 2 The The police of this city is ftrictly attended to, and is calculated to preferve great order and regularity; but it is attended with fome mortifying and degrading circumffances, which Europeans find great difficulty and repugnance in complying with-t however, the inhabitants and the company's fervants muft obferve its rules with a fcrupulous attention, not only to avoid paying the fines, but alfo to avoid the refentment of thofe who have it entirely in their power to advance or retard their promotion. The fuburbs are inhabited by the Chinefe and Portuguefe : the houfes of the former are very numerous, but they are low and dirty. The number of Chinefe refident in and about Batavia in 1788, was 200,000-: it is thefe people who are the fupport of this important fettlement ; and if they were obliged to abandon it by any impolitic meafure, it would foon lofe its fpiendor. The Chinefe carry on every trade and occupation; the better fort are very rich, but they are fubjedf to great exactions from the company, or their fervants. They are fuffered to farm the duties of exportation and importation, for which they pay the company 12,00° rix-dollars in filver money per month. All goods belonging to the company are exempt from duties, but thofe of every other perfon pay eight per cent. About three quarters of a mile from the city is the Chinefe burying" ground, confifting of fifteen or twenty acres : for the annual rent of this ground they pay 10,000 rix-dollars, and, at the end of every ten years, they repurchafe it for a very great fum, which in general is regulated by the governor and council. A perfon of confequence affured me, that the Chinefe pay a tax of 20,000 rix-dollars a year, for the privilege of wearing batavia; wearing their hair queued $ and, befides what I have already mentioned, thefe indulfrious people are fubject to many more exactions. The Chinefe are fubject to a fet of officers (appointed by the governor and council) who are Chinefe, and are previoufly chofen by that people : they are called captains and lieutenants, and hear all complaints, and their fentence is decifive ; but cafes of property, above a certain fum, and all felonies, are taken cognizance of by the fifcal and court of juft ices. The police eftablifhed among them is fo very good, that, except in cafes of property, the fifcal or juftices are feldom troubled with a Chinefe criminal. They trade to every part of India, and the number of large junks which arrive annually from China, is between thirty and forty. It is remarkable that the Chinefe are the only ftrangers which are not affected by the unhealthinefs of this place : indeed, much may be faid in favour of their temperance and regular manner of living, although one would imagine that the clofe manner in which a number of them live together could not fail to produce difeafes, but it certainly does not. The roads, or rather handfome avenues, which lead from the different gates of the city, are lined with buildings, where nature and art have been exhaufted to render them elegant and commodious beyond defcrip-tion : each houfe has a large garden, in which a degree of elegance and convenience is obfervable, equal to what there is in the magnificent piles which they fur round. Thefe houfes are inhabited by the principal people of Batavia, where they pafs moft of their time, and thofe amongft them who have no inducement to return to Europe, and who enjoy their health, may fpend their days very comfortably here. The government of this ifland, and indeed of all the Dutch pofief-flons in India, is lodged in the governor-general, who is afhfted by a number of counfellors, called u counfellors of India," or " edele beerens twelve of thefe counfellors muft refide at Batavia, but the number is not fixed ; at this time, there is one who governs at each of the following places, viz. Cochin, Ceylon, Macafler, and at the Emperor's court at yamarre, or Java, where, I am told, 400 European cavalry are kept, to do honour to the emperor. The council meet every Tuefday and Friday in the council-room at the caftle ; the general prefides, but, if prevented by ill health or any other circumftance, the director-general fupplies his place, who, as well as the edele heerens, are received into the caftle, and conducted to the council-room with great pomp and ceremony. Every thing relating to the civil and military government, commerce, and every other concern of the company, is transacted by this council, but the governor-general has a plenary power to put into execution any meafure he may judge neceflary for the good of the company. The prefent governor-general, whofe name is William Arnold Alting, has been refident upwards of thirty years at Batavia, eleven of which he has been governor-general: I am told his private character is very amiable and refpectable, but how any man poffefled of common feelings, can fuffer fuch humiliations from thofe around him, I cannot conceive. When any perfon approaches the general to fpeak to him, his behaviour and addrefs muft be the moft abject imaginable, and the refpect and profound fubmiflion which every fervant of the company, and every inhabitant muft neceflarily aflume on thefe occafions, are little fliort of the adoration paid to the Divinity : this homage is carried to fo great a 3 height, height, that when the general enters the church, although the congre- chap. xvi * gation may be at prayers, yet every perfon is obliged to get up and face u— him until he is feated in his pew, bowing as he paffes. ,79°' July. The deference paid to the feveral ranks, is not confined to carriages, But extends to the cloathing of individuals, as no perfon under the rank of an edele beeren is permitted to wear velvet: there are a number of other diftincfions in drefs equally ridiculous, but they feem to be wearing away: a few years ago, the women were ftrictly forbid wearing any European drefs, and ordered to conform to the Malay cuftom. At the time I was at Batavia, there were only five European Women on the ifland of Java, the reft being born of Malay or Creole mothers; and it is really diftrefling to fee how much they affect the manners of their Malay Haves in chewing beetle, and other actions equally difagree-able. Their drefs is a loofe white or flowered muflin robe, which is open and large, reaching to the worts and neck : but if the adjustment of their garments does not take up much time at the toilet, the arranging of their hair makes fufficient amends for it: they have in general very thick long black hair, which is gathered into a knot on the back part of the head, and is fo nicely combed that not a fingle hair is out of its place; round this a wreath of diamonds is fixed, which is more or lefs valuable, according to the circumstances of the wearer. In the evenings, a large wreath of jeffamine is alfo put round the hair, which gives a very agreeable perfume. Not more than two women in Batavia could fpeak any other language than Dutch or Malay, the former of which they underftand very imperfectly, always preferring Malay. The The office of ihebander is a principal one in this place, and is a fituation of much profit; no ftranger can tranfact the leaft bufinefs without his permidion ; the exports and imports are entirely regulated by him ; every boat which goes into the road pays him a certain fum ; he alfo regulates and ccmptrols the Chinefe in the receipt of duties: this poll is very laborious, but is alfo very lucrative. Nineteen thoufand pekul * of tin are brought every year from Pa-lambam, or Sumatra, to the company's ftores on Onrujl, which is fent in their fhips to China. The company fend annually from hence to Europe 20,000 pekul of pepper, for which they pay on an average two flivers and an half per pound, and fell it in Europe for fourteen ftivers per pound: they alfo export annually 200,000 pekul of coffee, at two ftivers and an half per pound, which is fold in Holland at ten flivers per pound. Onruft is a very fmall ifland, about a quarter of a mile in circumference, and fituated about two leagues and an half from Batavia : here the company's fhips refit and heave down, there being very good wharfs for that purpofe, at which five fhips may heave down at one time ; there are alfo large machines for difmafling veffels. Small as this ifland is, there are generally from five to fix hundred people on it; of which number, one hundred are European carpenters, but, excepting a few officers and a few other Europeans, the reft are flaves. The baas, or mailer carpenter, is the commandant of the ifland: an under merchant is alfo refident here, to receive and take care of the tin, pepper, .and coffee, which is brought into the company's flores here, from .Sumatra and different parts of Borneo and Java. Onruft is furrounded * A pekul is equal to 130 pounds, by by euns, and there is a kind of citadel on it; but as no troops are kept chap. XVI. there, in the war, the carpenters were trained to the ufe of great guns. -v —j 1790. It is fuppofed that Onruft is more healthy than Batavia, and it may be fo; but when Tfay that twenty men are conftantly employed in making coffins for thofe who die on this ifland, it cannot be fuppofed to have a very healthy fcite. During my ftay at Batavia, I lived at the hotel, which was the governor-general's houfe at the time Captain Cooke was here: it is a large and fpacious building, divided into two parts, one of which is occupied by ftrangers, and the other by Dutch. Every perfon, who is a ftranger, is obliged to live at this hotel : the terms are three rix-dollars a day, for which you have good lodging, and a well furnifhed table is provided. Gratitude induces me to lay, that I received the greateft attention and civility from many of the firft people at Batavia, who, not content with fhewing me every politenefs in their power during my ftay there, extended their good oflices to me after my departure. On the 21 ft of July, the Snelbetd* a packet of 140 tons, belonging zu to the company, arrived at Onruft, and I made application to the governor and council for a paffage to Europe in that veflel : on this, the captain of the packet was ordered to receive me, for which I paid 190 rix-dollars into the company's cheft. The order to the captain fpecified, that in confideration of that fum being paid, I v/as to have.a paffage to Europe in the Snclhcid, and to be accommodated and victualled as a failor : I therefore found myfelf neceffitatcd to make a further agreement with the captain for the ufe of half of his cabin, (Mr. Andrew Millar, late commiftary of ftores and provifions at Port Jackfon having 3 L the CHAP, the other half) for which I was to pay him 300 rix-dollars, and my XVI. . —,-1 proportion of what provifions were laid in by him, above what the company allowed. July. Being informed that the packet would be difpatched in a few days, 1 31, went to Onruft, on the 31ft, in order to be in readinefs. Lieutenant Ball expected to fail for Port Jackfon on the 8th of Auguft, and the fnow which he had taken up was to be difpatched on the 24th. Auguft. Tne caPta*Q °f tne Pac^et having received his final orders, we failed 4, 5. from On ruff on the 4th of Auguft; and in the evening of the 5 th, were clear of the ftreights of Sunda. It was now that the peftiferous air of Batavia began to fhew itfelf; for the veffel had not been five days at fea before fix men were taken ill with the putrid fever 3 and very foon afterwards, the captain, bis two mates, and all the failors, except four, were incapable of getting out of their beds; and what aggravated the horror of this fituation was, that the furgeon, who indeed knew very little of his profeflion, was fo ill that he could not even help himfelf: in this dilemma, I found it abfolutely neceflary to ufe every means for felf-prefervation ; and having obtained the confent of the captain (who was not yet delirious) and the chief mate, I fpoke to the only four men who were well, and reprefentcd to them, that going below would fubject them to the infection j I affured them that I would never go below myfelf, except on extraordinary occafions, when I fhould ufe every precaution againft the infe&ion ; and 1 further obferved, that the prefervation of our lives and the veffel, with the recovery of thofe who were fick, depended on their conforming to my orders 3 and that I hoped, with God's afliftance, not only to prefervc them them in health, but to get the veffel into a port. They promited me chap. xvj. implicit obedience, and I began to make a tent on the after part of the * t '_t quarter deck, for us to lie under. I had great difficulty to make them ^79°-relinquifh the drams of new arrack, of which they got ten a day; but this was effected, and in lieu of it, I gave to each man three large wine glaffes of port wine, with two tca-fpoons full of bark in each glafs: fortunately, I had a fmall fupply of thofe articles, as there were not any medicines on board. Three of the fick men foon died of the putrid fever, their faces being covered with purple fpots : I ordered them to be lafhed up in their hammocks, and hove overboard with their cloaths, making thofe who performed that office, wafh themfelves very freely with vinegar, and fill their nofes with tobacco. The captain was now delirious, as were moft: of thofe who were fick. On the 12th, I obtained the captain and chief mate's content to bear up for the Ifle of Fran'ce, when we fliould get into the latitude of it. The chief mate's complaint terminating in an intermitting fever, I prevailed on him to lie under the tent; and by a plentiful administration of bark and port wine, he became able to keep a day watch. On the 14th, my friend and companion Mr. Millar was taken ill, and the captain and moft of the failors were dying, not having had any medicine administered to them during their illnefs : three or four among them, of a ftrong constitution, were in a ftate of raving madnefs, uttering dreadful imprecations againft the doctor, fo that I was obliged to order them to be lafhed in their hammocks, and they died a few days afterwards. 3 L 2 Being Being in i8° 46' fouth latitude, and 8o° 59' eaft longitude, after fome pcrfuafion, the chief mate contented to bear up for the Iile of France it may, indeed, be thought ftrange that he ftiould hefitate one moment in our prefent diftrefting fituation : however, going to the Iile of France did not deftroy the hopes he had formed, when he objected to bearing up. Between the 12th and the 27th, five men died.: and on the-2St.lv Mr. Millar departed this life: the whole were carried off by a moft malignant putrid fever.. On the 29th, we made the Iftand of Mauritius, and anchored the fame day. at the entrance of the north-weft harbour. The captain and three failors died.as. we were carrying them on fhore. Moft providentially, we had a fucceflion of the fineft weather and the faireft winds we could have wifhed, from the time we left the ftreights of Sunda until our arrival at the Ifle of France; and another great con-folation was, that the veffel was perfectly tight. From the direction of the wind being at fouth-eaft, all veffels going to the north-weft harbour, muft luff clofe round the gunner's quoin, and haul over for the ifland, taking care to avoid the reefs with which the fhore is lined, and on which the furf breaks with great violence. A continuation of forts and batteries extend from the harbour's mouth as far as it is poflible for any veffel to fetch; though, independent of thefe forts, landing here muft be attended with much danger, from the conftant furf which breaks on the reefs already mentioned; and as the wind always blows out of the harbour, every veffel is obliged to warp in. No veffel ought to touch at this ifland d uring the hurricane mon thsj BATAVIA TO ENGLAND. 445 i months*, as the harbour cannot afford fhelter for more than fix or CHAP. XVI. eight veffels. In 1788, fix Urge fhips were wrecked in this harbour. — At this time there were lying hi the harbour, La Thetis, of 38 guns, .Augull. commanded by Compte M'Namarra, Chef de Divifion ; La Nymphe, 38 guns, Le Compte de Forineaux, Chef de Divifion ; La Medufa, 38 guns, Le Compte de Roffilly; three American veffels, and a great number of French merchant fhips. The revolution of this ifland, which had taken place about three weeks before our arrival, was attended with great exceffes by the people, who carried Le Compte M'Namarra to the gallows, where he was near being executed. The governor, Le Compte de Conway, had resigned his government to a Monfieur De Cauffigny, commandant of Sourbon, who arrived here only three days before us. Monfieur de Conway waited the equipment of La Nymphe frigate, in which fhip he propofed returning to France,. The town of Port Louis is large, and covers a deal of ground, but the houfes are in general paltry buildings. Here are large ftores, and every thing neceffary for the equipment of fleets. The number of inhabitants on the ifland, exclusive of the military, is about 8000; and. blacks, 12,000. Frefh provifions, efpecially butchers meat, are very fcarce here 5. what there is colts 20 fous per pound; but turtle is procured from St9. Branden, and fold at a much cheaper rate. * Oetober, November, and December, The CHAP. XVI. The general object of cultivation on this ifland is the indico, of 1790. Auguft. -j which from four to five crops a year are procured : one perfon fent to Europe 30,0001b. in 17S9, of a very fuperior quality. Attempts have been made here to rear cochineal, as the ifland abounds with the plant which the infects lie on, but a fmall bird destroys the infect. The foil of this ifland is little fuperior to that at Port Jackfon. At the diftance of three leagues from the port, is k gar din du Roi, which is kept with the utmolt care : a gardener lives here at the King's expence, who rears the plants, and diftributes them, gratis, to the colonists. This year the following plants were to be distributed to thofe who chofe to afk for them. 300 True acacias. 1 50 Bibeaux. 84 Avocayers. 10 Baobabs. 180 Bibaciers. 80 Bilembiers. 300 Badamiers. 17 Brindaonniers. 86 Cocoa-nut trees. .50 Camphor trees. 104 Caneficiers. 148 Caramboliers aigrcs. 50 Ditto - doux, 10 Quince trees. 200 Dolbiers. 20 Foccias. 4163 Clove trees. 50 Illipes. 50 Jamiers. 12 Jaquiers, large kind. 8 Jambou—boles, 3000 Jambou—rofadiers. 92 Lataniers nains de la chine. 23 Longaniers. 20 Lit-chis, grofle efpee. 36 Sapotes, negros de Moluquas. 30 Tata-mapacas of Madagafcar. 3000 Small voakoas. 80 Mangoflans. 56 Molavis. 1544 Nutmeg trees. 2 1 8 Sweet oranges. 4 Peach trees. 50 Perchcrs. 40 Ran- 40 Rangouflans. 400 Rouftias. 40 Savonniers des Antillas. 80 Spirceas de la China. 300 Sagoutiers. 145 Wova-jourindis of Madagafcar 40 Wouau guafailliers. CHAP. XVI. 1790. Auguft* It fliould be obferved, that 550 of the nutmeg trees were referved for Cayenne, Sr. Domingo, Martinico, and the Seyehilles. I cannot omit mentioning the great civilities I received from Meflieurs De Conway, M'Namarra, Fourneaux, Roffilly, and in fliort all the refpectable people here, who all did their utmoft to perfuade me to take my paffage in La Nymphe frigate : Monfieur de Fourneaux very politely offered me half his cabin, and no inducement was wanting to make me accept it; befides, there was a probability of the fever not being totally eradicated in the packet; but as I heard of a mifunderflanding between England and Spain, I thought it my duty to remain with that veffel. I mention this circumftance for no other reafon than to exprefs my gratitude to the above officers for their polite attention to me during my fliort flay at this ifland. The packet being thoroughly cleanfed, and. a frefh. crew entered, which was compofed of all nations, we failed on the 2 1 ft of September, September, having only four failors on board out of the twenty-fix, which came from Batavia, the reft, being either dead,.or left at the hofpital with little hopes «f recovery. Nothing material happened during our paffage from the Ifle of France until our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 9th of October. Here I found Lieutenant Riou waiting for orders Oftober. from England. As I undcrftood that all veffels belonging to the Dutch Company were ftricily forbid flopping at any port, or having communication CHAP, nication with any veffels during their paffage from the Cape to Amfter-XVI. i_ -.— i dam, I wrote a letter to Mr. Van de Graff, the Dutch governor, repre-17q0. fen ting my being chared with difpatches, and requesting that the ° captain might be permitted to heave the veffel to, off the moft convenient port in the Englifh channel, in order to land me with the difpatches: this requeft he very readily granted, giving the captain an order for that purpofe, and furnifhing me with a copy of it. Five large French fhips put in here loaded with flaves from the eaft coaft of Africa, 20. and bound to the Weft-Indies. On the 20th of October, La Nymphe November, frigate arrived here from the Ifle of France, and the fame day the z. packet failed. On the 2d of November, we palfed the Ifland of St. 7. Helena, with a strong gale at fouth-eaft; and on the 7th, we faw the Ifland of Afcenfion, We croffed the equator in 200 18' longitude weft of London. The fouth-eaft trade carried us as far as 50 north latitude, when we got the north-eaft trade, which did not come to the eaftward of north-eaft until we got near the weftern iflands. After a pleafant voyage of two months from the Cape of Good Hope, I arrived in December England on the 20th of December, having been abfent on the public fervice, in various stations, and in different places, in the fouthern hemifphere, three years and feven months. Here ends Lieutenant King's Journal, which, as it gives an authentic account of the firft fettlement of a new colony, in a very diftant region* muft ever be interefting to thofe, who delight in tracing the origin of nations. The following Narrative was taken from the official difpatches .of Governor Phillip, and forms a continuation of the history of the people and country under his charge, from the conclusion of his late >royagc to the L.teft period, .6 C HAPTEN CHAPTER XVII. The Lady Juliana Tranfport arrives at Port Jackfon.—Lefs of the Guardian.—A fettlement made at Sydney-Cove.—A fate of the fettle-ments at Sydney-Cove and Rofe-Hill.—A general return of male convicts, with their employments. THE Lady Juliana tranfport, which failed from England in Sep- chap. xvir. temher, 1789, arrived at Port Jackfon on the 3d of June, 1790, t , _ bringing fupplies from England, and alfo difpatches from the Guardian »79°« at the Cape of Good Hope ; which having failed from England in Au- -lune' guff, (truck unhappily on the 23d day of December, 1789, in 441 fouth latitude, and 410 30' caff longitude, on an ifland of ice. By the unfortunate lofs of the Guardian the colony was deprived of thofe liberal fupplies, which had been fent from England, the want of which threw the fettlement back fo much, that it will require a length of time to put it in the fituation it would have been in, had the Guardian arrived before Governor Phillip was obliged to fend away the Sirius, to give up labour, and to deftroy the greateft part of the live ftock. Nevertheless, the fettlers had little to apprehend from the natives ; againft whom, no one ever thought any defence neceffary, more than what out-houfes and barracks afforded : indeed, at the firft landing, a barrier would have been very defirable; but at that time, and for months afterwards, the Higheft defence could not have been made, with- 3 M out chap, out neglecting what was fo abfolutely and immediately neceflary, for XVII. \__v-'~> fecuring the ftores and provifions. There is, however, little reafon ■7SJ°- to think that the natives will ever attack any building, and ftill lefs to ■'unc* fuppofe they will attack a number of armed men : not that they want innate bravery, but they are perfectly fenfible of the great fuperiority of fire-arms. Setting fire to the corn was what was moft feared, but this they had never attempted j and, as they avoided thofe places, which were frequented by the colonifts, it was feldom that any of them were now feen near the fettlement. If the natives fliould find any cattle in the woods, they undoubtedly would deftroy them, which mifchief is all that the fettler would have to apprehend. They naturally attack the strangers, who go out to rob them of their fpears, and of the few articles they poffefs and who do this too frequently j fince the punifti-ments that the delinquents fometimes meet with are not attended^ with the defired effect. The fituation of Port Jackfon, between two harbours, fo that if a (hip fall in with the coaft in bad weather, a few miles either to the northward or to the fouthward, fhe can find immediate ihelter, is a great advantage; and it perhaps will be found hereafter, that the feat of government has not been improperly placed. Governor Phillip obferves, that they, as firft fettlers, laboured under fome inconvenience from not being able to employ the convicts in agriculture on the fpot where the provifions and ftores were landed j but this was the only inconvenience, as having the convicts at fome diftance from the military was attended with many advantages. When the governor firft arrived, he had little time to look round him, as his instructions particularly pointed out, that he was not to delay the the difembarking of the people, with a view of fearching for a better chap. fituation than what Botany-Bay might afford. He was obliged to look y r farther, but did not think himfelf at liberty to continue his fearches ?79* after he had feen Sydney-Cove. Had he feen the country near the head ^ of the harbour, he might have been induced to have made the fettlement there, but nothing was known of that part of the country, until the creek which runs up to Rofe-hill was difcovered, in a journey that the governor made to the weflward, three months after they landed j and although he was then fully fatished of the goodnefs of the foil, and faw the advantages of that fituation, molt of the ftores and provifions were landed, and it required fome little time to do away the general opinion, that fuch a fituation could not be healthy, and that he was inclined to think himfelf, until he had examined the country for fome miles round, and was fatished that there was a free circulation of air, in the goodnefs of which, few places equal it. The numbers of people, who had been fettled at Rofe-Hill, on an average for eighteen months, exceeded one hundred, and during that time they had only two deaths : a woman, who had been fubject to a dropfy, and a marine, who had been there but a very fhort time before he died. It is in that part of ihe country, that the governor propofed employing the convicts in agriculture, and in the neighbourhood of which, he propofed fixing the firft fettlers who might be fent out. The impoffibility of conveying ftores and provifions for any diftance inland obliged the governor to mark out the firft townfhip near Rofe-Hill, where there is a confiderable extent of good land : the fea-coaft does not offer any fituation within their reach at prefent, which is calculated for a town, whofe inhabitants are to be employed in agriculture. 3 M z In chap. In order to know in what time a man might be able to cultivate a XV1J. . G t _t_ , fufficient quantity of ground to fupport himfelf, the governor, in No- 1790. vember, 1789, ordered a hut to be built in a good fituation, an acre of ^unu ground to be cleared, and once turned up: it was then put into the poffeffion of a very induftrious convict., who was told, if he behaved well, he mould have thirty acres. This man had faid, that the time for which he had been fentenced was expired, and he wifhed to fettle: he has been induftrious, has received fome little afliftance, and in June, 1790, informed the governor, that if one acre more were cleared for him, he would be able to fupport himfelf after next January : this was much doubted, but it was thought he would do tolerably well, after being fupported for eighteen months. Others may prove more intelligent, though they cannot well be more induftrious. The river Hawkefbury will, no doubt, offer fome defirable fituations, and the great advantages of a navigable river are obvious; but before a fettlement can be made there, proper people to conduct, it muft be found, and they muft be better acquainted with the country. The Lady Juliana being the only veffel, which was at that time in the country, Governor Phillip was obliged to fend her to Norfolk-Ifland with a part of the provifions 3, and had not that fhip been chartered for China, he propofed fending the Sirius's officers and men to England in her; but this intention was laid afide, as the mafter of her informed him, that it would be attended with a Iofs of more than fix thoufand pounds to the owners, and confequently might occalion an expence to government, which would exceed what attended their remaining a few months longer in the country : befides, he was not willing to break through the charter-party, as other fhips were coming out. As 1 the the Lady Juliana was to touch at Norfolk-Ifland with provifions, and one chap. of the fuperintendants profeffcd himfelf to underftand the cultivation ^-^ILj and dreffing of the flax-plant, the governor fent thither moft of the *79°. women who came out in that fhip, and he intended to fend an equal Junc" number of male convicts, when other fhips fhould arrive. Of the fuperintendants fent out in the Guardian, for the purpofe of inftrucling the convicts in agriculture, five only arrived in the Lady Juliana, and of the five fuperintendants who arrived, one only was a farmer; two laid that they were ufed to the farming bufinefs when seventeen and nineteen years of age, but they were then unable, from the knowledge they formerly obtained, to instruct the convicts, or direct a farm. The two gardeners were faid to be loft, having left the Guardian in a fmall boat after the unfortunate accident, which deprived the colony of her invaluable cargo. The Neptune, Surprize, and Scarborough tranfports arrived at Port Jackfon the latter end of June, 1790, with about fix hundred cafks of beef and pork, which were fent round from the Guardian, and nineteen convicts, who had been tranfported in that fhip. In order to ascertain the time in which it is probable the colony will be able- to fupport itfelf, it will be neceffary to point out thofe circum-ftancer, that may advance or retard the fettlement. It will depend on the numbers who are employed in agriculture, and who, by their labour, are to provide for thofe that make no provision for themfelves. Governor Phillip did not reckon on the little labour which may be got from the women, though fome were employed in the fields j as the greatest July. CHAP, greateft part would always find employment in making their own, and V v '_■ the men's cloathing, and in the necefTary attention to their children. The *79°« ground, which the military may cultivate, will be for their own convenience. The providing of houfes and barracks for the additional number of officers and foldiers, the rebuilding of thofe temporary ones, which were erected on their firft arrival, and which muft be done in the courfe of another year, as well as the building of more itore-houfes and huts for the convicts as they arrive, employed a confiderable number of hands, and works of this kind will always be carrying on. Temporary buildings on their firft landing were abfolutely neceflary ; but they fliould be avoided in future ; as, after three or four years, the whole work is to be begun again; and the want of lime greatly in-creafes the labour of building with bricks, as the builders are obliged to increase the thicknefs of the walls, which cannot be carried to any height; at the fame time, if very heavy rains fall before the houfes are covered in, they are confiderably damaged. The annexed return will fhew in what manner the convicts are employed at prefent; and the governor had increafed the number of thofe employed in clearing the land for cultivation, as far as it would be poflible to do it before January, 1791, except by convalefcents, from whom little labour could be expected. He hoped next year, that a very confiderable quantity of ground would be fown with wheat and barley: but the fettlement has never had more than one perfon to fuperintend the clearing and cultivating of ground for the public benefit, or who has ever been the means of bringing a Angle bufliel of grain into the public granary. One or two others had been fo employed for a fliort time, but were removed, as wanting either induftry or probity; 2 and and if the perfon who has at prefent the entire management of all the convicts, who are employed in clearing and cultivating the land, fhould be loft, there would be no one in the fettlement to replace him. It was originally fuppofed that a fufficient number of good farmers might have been found amongft the convicts to have fuperintended the labours of the reft; and men have been employed who anfwer the purpofe of preventing their ftraggling from their work ; but none of them were equal to the charge of directing the labour of a number of convicts, with whom moft of them were connected by crimes, which they would not wifh to have brought forward. From their former habits of life, it may eafily be fuppofed, that few of the convicts would be good farmers. From what has been faid, it may be feen how impoflible it was to detach a body of convicts to any diftance, if there had been any neceffity for it. The land at Rofe-Hill is very good, and in every refpect well calculated for arable and paflure ground, though it be loaded with timber, the removal of which requires great labour and time j but this is the cafe with the whole country, as far as had been feen, particular fpots excepted. As the good land could not at prefent be cultivated by the colonifts, it was refcrved for the firft fettlers that fliould come out. The confequence of a failure of a crop, when the colony can no longer expect fupplies from Great-Britain, is obvious; and to guard againft fuch confequences, it would be of great ufe to have a few fettlers, to whom great encouragement fhould be given. The fixing the firft fettlers in townfhips would, indeed, tend to prevent that iiicreafe of live flock, which might be raifed in farms at a diftance from villages, where the ftock would be lefs liable to naffer from the depredations, which may 1790. July. CxvtiP" De exPe<^e(^ ^rom tne tidier and the convict, and againft which there is no effectual fecurity. The many untoward circumftances which the colony had hitherto met with were done away; and at length there was reafon to hope, that after two years from July, 1790, they would want no farther fupply of flour, though various accidents might render a fupply neceflary after that period. How long a regular fupply of beef and pork would be neceffary depended on the quantity of live ftock which might be introduced into the fettlement, and on its increafe, of which no judgment could be formed. A town was now laid out at Rofe-Hill, of which the principal ftrcet was to be occupied by the convicts : the huts were building at the diftance of one hundred feet from each other, and each hut was to contain ten convicts. In thefe huts they will live more comfortably than they could poflibly do if numbers were confined together in larger buildings; and having good gardens to cultivate, and frequent opportunities to exchange vegetables for little neceflaries which the ftores do not furnifh; thefe accommodations will make them feel the benefits they may draw from their induftry. Some few inconveniences, indeed, enfue from the convicts being fo much difperfed, but their being indulged with having their own gardens is a fpur to induftry, which they would not have, if employed in a public garden, though entirely for their own benefits, as they never feemed to think it was their own; and it was not obferved, that many of thofe who had been for fome months in huts, and confequently were more at liberty than they would be if numbers were confined together, had abufed the confidence placed in them, any firther than the robbing of a garden. A General CHAP. A General Return of Male Convicts, with their reipecfive xvii. employments, on the 23d of July, 1790. ,7go At SYDNEY. ' JuIy' 40 Making bricks and tiles. 50 Bringing in bricks, &c. for the new flore-houfe. 19 Bricklayers and labourers employed in building a flore-houfe and huts at Rofe-Hill. 8 Carpenters employed at the new ftpre, and in building huts at Rofe-Hill. 9 -Men who can work with the axe, and who afTift the carpenters. 2 Sawyers. 9 Smiths. jo Watchmen. 40 Receiving flores and provifions from the fhips. 12 Employed on the roads—moftly con- valefcents. 18 Bringing in timber. 4 Stone-mafons. 10 Employed in the boats. 3 Wheelwrights. 6 Employed in the ilores. 38 Employed by the officers of the civil and military departments at their farms. Thefe men will be employed for the public when the relief takes place. 2 Alliftants to the provofl marfhal. 3 Gardeners and labourers employed by fhe governor. 3 Coopers. 6 Shoe-makers. 4 Taylors. 5 Bakers. 6 Attending the fick at the hofpital. 3 Barbers. 3 Gardeners, and others, employed at the hofpital. 3 Employed by the governor bringing in of wood, &c. 3l6 413 Under medical treatment. 729 ) At ROSE-HILL. 2 Employed at the flore. 3 Servants to the three fuperintendants. 1 Employed in taking care of the ftock. 1 Employed at the hofpital. 5 Men who work with the axe in building huts. Baker. Cook. Boys varioufly employed. Afliflant to the provoft marfhal. 3 Thatchers. 1 Servant to the flore-keepers. 1 Ditto to the affiflant furgeon. 4 Overfecrs. 25 Sick. 113 Clearing and cultivating the ground. 12 Sawyers. 179 N C H A P T E R CHAPTER XVIII. An excurfon into the country.—An interview with the natives.—Governor Phillip wounded with a fpear.—A fecond interview with the natives.— Occurrences on that occcafou.—Five convic7s cf'ecJ their efcape in a boat, —The fettlement v if ted by the natives.—Their cufoms.—'Arrival of the Supply from Batavia. en a p. HP OWARDS the Litter end of August, 1790, feveral officers made xviii.' I an excursion into the country, and going fouth-fouth-weft from 1790. Profpect-Hill for twenty miles, they came to a run of water, which Auguft. t^Cy fuppofed to be the head of the Nepean river. They defcribed the country through which they palfed to be good land for ten miles, the reft ordinary ground, interfected by deep ravines and a large marih, which they fuppofed, formed a very extenfive piece of water, after heavy rains, A number of convicts going out to fearch for fvvcet tea, fome of them feparated from the reft, and were loft in the woods for feveral days, and one of them was never heard of afterwards. It is hardly poflible to conceive the obstinacy and inattention of many of thefe people, even in matters which concern only their own fafety. In PORTJACKSON. 459 In the morning of the 7th of September, Governor Phillip went down chap. the harbour to fix on a fpot for raifing a brick column, which might cJ-^i^ point out the entrance to fhips which were unacquainted with the coaft, 179°* as the flag-ftaff could not be feen by vefiels until they drew very near Septenilxr* the land, and was alfo liable to be blown down. A rifing ground at the diftance of a cable's length from the fouth head was chofen, and the ftone neceffary for the bafe of the column being already cut, that work was immediately begun, and the party were returning to Sydney, when the governor was informed by fome officers, who had landed in Manly-Bay, and who were going on a fhooting excurfion, that they had feen Bannelong, a native who had ran away from the fettlement, and who had enquired after all his friends, and received feveral prefents. It feems Bannelong, and Colebe, another native who had efcaped from the fettlement, with near two hundred others, were affembled in Manly-Bay to feaft on a dead whale which was lying on the beach. Bannelong fent a large piece of it to the governor, as a prefent, which the failors had in the boat: he was very glad to fee thofe he knew of the party, particularly a native boy named Nanbarre, hut feemed afraid of being retaken, and would not permit any one to come fo near as to lay their hands on him. As Governor Phillip had always been defirous of meeting with this man, and had fought an opportunity from the day he left his houfe, he returned to the look-out, and collect ing every little thing which was likely to pleafe him, went to the fpot where he had been feen. Several natives appeared on the beach as the governor's boat rowed into tlie bay, ■but on its nearer approach, they retired amongft the trees. 3 N 2 It chap. It- had ever been the governor's opinion, and what he had obferved —v—j of thefe people confirmed it, that the bell means of obtaining the con-'79°* fidence of a native was by example, and by placing confidence in him; September, pU,.p0fe> jie |eft tjie jucjge-advocate and Lieutenant Water- houfe, who had accompanied him in the boat, and landed himfelf, followed only by a feaman who had fome beef and bread, with a few other articles which he. was defirous of giving to fuch of the natives as might join him: after calling repeatedly on his old acquaintance by all his names, he was anfwered by a native who appeared with feveral others at a diftance, and as he increafed his diftance from the boat, the native approached nearer, and took a number of little prefents, on their being laid down at the diftance of a few paces ; but he would not come near the governor, although in anfwer to the queftion—'* where was Banne-" long ?*' he repeatedly faid he was the man; this, however, could not be believed, as he was fo much altered : at length a bottle was held up, and on his being afked, what it was in his own language, he anfwered, " the King-" for as he had.always heard his Majefty's health drank in the firft glafs after dinner at die governor's table, and had been made to repeat the word before he drank his own glafs of wine, he fuppofed the liquor was named " the King;" and though he afterwards knew it was called wine, yet he would frequently call it King. This convinced the governor that it could be no other than Bannelong, and every method was tried to entice him to come near, but he always retired on their approaching him nearer than he wifhed, fo that they were prefently out of light of the boat, though at uo great diftance from it; but on eight or ten of the natives placing themfelves in a fituation to prevent Bannelong being carried off, had it been attempted, he came up, together with Colebc, and held out his hand; but he was fo changed, and appeared fo poor and miferable, that even then there was a doubt whether PORT JACKSON. 461 whether he were the man, though Colebe was well known. After chap. XVIIf fome conversation, Governor Phillip went down to the beach, and the two e-—v—*j officers came on fliore ; the boat's crew, with the arms, were ftill in *~C)0' September* the boat, for as the natives kept the pofition they had taken, which fhewed they were under fome apprehenfions, he was afraid of alarming them. Bannelong appeared glad to fee his old acquaintances; he was? very chearful, and repeatedly fhook hands with them, afking for hatchets and cloaths, which were promifed to be brought him in two days: he pointed to a fmall fire which was burning near them, and faid he fhould • fteep there the two nights until the governor's return. Knives, hats, and various other articles were given to him and Colebe ; and the latter, laughing, fliewed them that he had got the iron from his leg by which he had been fecured when at the fettlement: he alfo feemed glad to fee his former acquaintances, and made himfelf very merry at the manner of his friend Bannelong's getting away from Sydney, by laying his head on his hand, fliutting his eyes, and faying, " Governor nang0rdr9% (afleep) and imitating the manner in which his companion had ran off. • The governor and his party now began to retire towards the beach, when they were joined b^ a flout, corpulent native who had been for fome time ftanding at a fmall diftance ; he approached them under ftrong marks of fear, but this foon fubfided on his being treated in a -friendly manner, and he became very convertible : he fliewed them a-wound he had received in his back with a fpear Bannelong alfo was defirous of fliewing that he had been wounded in various parts of the' body fince he left the fettlement; one of his wounds was made with a fpear which went through his left arm, and was pretty well healed, hut another dangerous one over the left eye was not in fo good a ftate : thefe wounds, he faid, were received at Botany-Bay. After a prettyi long 1790, September* ^xvflf' *0n^ conver^at^ori' our party were going away, but they were detained by Bannelong, who was ftill folicitous to talk about the hatchets and cloaths he was to have fent him in two days, and a native who had been {landing for fome time at the diftance of twenty or thirty yards, was pointed out by him in a manner which fliewed he wifhed him to be taken notice of; on this, the governor advanced towards him; and on the man's making figns that he fhould not come near, and appearing to be afraid, he threw his fword down, ftill advancing towards him, at the lame time opening his hands to fliew that he had no arms. In the courfe of this interview, they had flopped near a fpear which -was lying on the grafs, and which Bannelong took up; it was longer than common, and appeared to be a very curious one, being barbed and pointed with hard wood; this exciting Governor Phillip's curiofity, he afked Bannelong for it; but inftead of complying with this requeft, he took it where the. ftranger was {landing, threw it down, and taking a common fliort fpear from a native who, with feveral others, ftood at fome diftance behind him, he prefented that and a club to the governor, which gave reafon to fuppofe that the fpear which had been afked for did not belong to him. As Governor Phillip advanced towards the man whofe fears he wifhed to remove, he took up the fpear in queftion, and fixing it in a throwing-flick, appeared to ftand on his defence; but as there was no reafon to fuppofe he would throw it without the leaft provocation, and when he was fo near thofe with whom our party were on fuch friendly terms, the governor made a fign for him to lay it down, and continued to approach him, at the fame time repeating the words—weree weree, which the natives ufe when they wifli any thing not to be done that difpleafes them; notwithstanding this, the native, ilepping back with his right leg, threw the fpear with great violence, 2 and PORTJACKSON. 463 And it ftruck againft Governor Phillip's collar bone, clofe to which it cha p. entered, and the barb came out clofe to the third vertebra: of the back, uV*Uj_t Immediately after throwing the fpear, the native ran off, as did Banne- T79°« i /» September. long and Colebe, with thofe that were ftanding to the right and left ; and the latter, in their retreat, threw feveral fpears, which, however, did no farther mifchief. As bringing any arms on fliore would probably have prevented an interview taking place, the mufquets had been left in the boat ; but the governor having a piftol in his pocket, he difcharged it as he went down to the beach, as feveral of the natives flopped at no great diftance, and the cockfwain coming up at the fame inftant, fired a mufquet, though there was no reafon to apprehend the natives meant to moleft them any farther. The conduct of this favage may be fuppofed to do away any idea that had been formed of the natives not abufing a confidence placed in them . and yet, there is no great reafon to draw that inference from the accident juft mentioned; for, it fliould be remembered that the man who wounded Governor Phillip was a ftranger, and might fear their taking him away, as they had carried off others; againft which he might not think their numbers a fufficient fectirity ; behdes, he had not joined the party, nor probably thought the friendfhip, which fubfifted between them and others of a different tribe, any-way binding on him; for it is fuppofed the different tribes are in every refpect perfectly independant of. each other. This man had ftood for fome time peaceably and quietly, and the governor certainly was more in his power before he went to call the officers out of the boat, than at the time the fpear was thrown; it is therefore moft likely that the action proceeded from a momentary inipulfe of fear; but the behaviour of Bannelong on this occafion is fcQt fo eafily to be accounted for; lie never attempted to interfere when the. chap. the man took the fpear up, or faid a fincrle word to prevent him from xvii. i r 1 P r *-—v—-> throwing it; he poflibly did not think the fpear would be thrown, and ,;9°" the .whole was but the bufinefs of a moment. September. A few minutes before this affair happened, nineteen of the natives had been counted round our party, and the pofition they took fliewed their judgment: on the ground where Bannelong and Colebe joined them, the trees flood at the diflance of forty or fifty feet from each other, and, had the natives kept together, flicker might have been found from their fpears behind a tree ; but whilft four of them remained in front, at the diftance of forty yards, four or five others placed them-felves on the right, and the fame number on the left, at about the fame diflance; others again were planted between them and the beach, at the diftance of ten or fifteen yards, which rendered it impoftible either to carry off their companions or to gain fhelter from their fpears, if hoftilities commenced ; and though thefe people do not always keep their fpears in their handslv they arc feldom without their throwing-fticks, and generally have a fpear lying near them in the grafs, which they move with their feet as they change their ground : however, it is not likely that this difpofition was made with any bad intention, but merely as a fecurity for Bannelong and Colebe; indeed, thefe men directed the manoeuvre and waited till it was made, before they came near enough to fhake hands. It may naturally be fuppofed that many would be defirous of punifh-ing what was generally deemed an act of treachery, but Governor Phillip did not fee the tranfaction in that .light, and as foon as he arrived at Sydney, he gave the neceffary directions to prevent any of the natives being fired on, unlefs they were the aggreffors, by throwing fpears; and, in in order to prevent the party who were out on a {hooting excurfion chap, x viii from meeting with an attack of a fimilar nature, an officer and fome -v-^ foldiers were fent after them : they returned the next day, and coming by the place where the accident happened, fome of the natives appeared SePtember-on an eminence; on their being afked who had wounded the governor, they named a man, or a tribe, who refided to the northward : the boy, Nanbarre, was their interpreter, and he faid the man's name was Caregaf, and that he lived at, or near Broken-Bay. Nanbarre was alfo directed to enquire after Bannelong and Colebe, and thofe to whom the queftion was put, pointed to fome people at a diftance. One of thefe natives threw a fpear to an officer who afked for it, and this he did in fuch a manner that very particularly marked the care he took it fliould not fall near any perfon. It may be thought remarkable that, after what had happened, the natives fliould appear in the fight of feven teen armed men ; and what was more extraordinary, the cockfwains of the two boats which lay at anchor all night near the beach, with feveral foldiers in them, faid, that after the party they landed were gone off, the natives returned, made up fome fires, and flept there all night j but, as the officer who went to bring home the party that were out a lhooting, found by the marks on the fand, when he was returning the next morning, that he had been followed by three men and a dog, it is probable that they had others looking out likevvife, and had the boats approached the beach in the night, they would have immediately fled into the woods. It was Governor Phillip's intention, as foon as he fhould be able to go out, to endeavour to find Bannelong, and, if poflible, to have the man given up who wounded him, or fome of his tribe; not with a view of inflicting any punifliment, but of detaining one or more of thefe people till they underffood each other's language. 3 o Some chap. Some days after this affair, as feveral officers were going down the xviii, -v—-~' harbour, they law fome natives, and amongft them Bannelong and his I79°* wife; on this, the boat's head was put to the rocks, and he came September. ^own> fhook hands with feveral of the party, and enquired if the governor was dead ; they told him no; on which he promifed to come and fee him ; faid he had beat the man who wounded him, and whofe name he told them \\r^Wil-k-me-ring> of the tribe of Kay-yce-my* the place were the governor was wounded. The native boy and girl were in the boat, and through them this con-verfation was held : the girl pointed out one of the natives who fhe faid was her father: none of thefe people (hewed any figns of fear, though they faw the officers were armed, and the girl was very defirous of remaining with them ; fhe was now of an age to want to form a connection with the other fex, which fhe had no opportunity of doing in the clergyman's family where fhe lived, and very innocently told him, when fhe afked to go away, that fhe wanted to be married. As it would be difficult to prevent her getting away, if fhe was determined to go, it was thought moft prudent to confent to her leaving the fettlement, and flie was told that fhe would be permitted to go, and to take all her cloaths with her; and that whenever flic chofe to come and fee her friends, whatever lhe wifhed for fhould be given her; at the fame time, feveral reafons were urged, that were likely to induce her to remain in her prefent fituation a few months longer, as flie did not fufHciently underftand the language to explain their intentions towards the natives fo fully as could have been wifhed. On the 16th of September, a fhoal of fifh appeared on the coaft, which extended as far as the eye could reach, and part of them entering the bar- 7 hour hour, aa manv were caught at two hauls with the feine, as ferved the chap. xvm. whole fettlement: there were not lefs than three thoufand, which, on an *—*"**j average, weighed about five pounds each. As a party were going to I79°* September, vifit Bannelong, fome fifh were fent him, which he received, and appeared free from any apprehenfions; and the fame afternoon, the com-miffary and Governor Phillip's orderly ferjeant, for whom he had always ihewed great friendfliip, went with an additional fupply: they found him on the rocks with his wife, who was fifhing, and though on their firft approach he ran into the woods, yet as foon as he knew them he returned, and joined them when they landed, bringing down his wife, as he had done to thofe who viiited him before, and on thefe occafions, he ihewed that he was ftill fond of a glafs of wine. Governor Phillip was fo well recovered of his wound, as to be able to go in a boat on the 17th, to the place where Bannelong and his wife then refided: he found nine natives on the fpot, who informed him that Bannelong was out a fiftiing; the native girl was in the boat, and her father being among the natives, a hatchet and fome fiih were given him ; in return for which, he gave the governor a fliort fpear that had been pointed with a knife, which the natives now ufed when they could procure one, in preference to the fhell. The party had juft left thefe people, and were going farther in queft of Bannelong, when they perceived four canoes coming towards them, in one of which was the perfon they wanted; on this they returned to the Cove. As foon as Bannelong had laid up his canoe, he came to the boat, and held up both his hands, to fhew that he had no arms: prefently afterwards, the party landed, and he joined them very readily, afked Governor Phillip where he was wounded, and faid that he had beat the man who wounded him, and whofe name he repeated : being told that the man would be 3 O 2 killed chap, killed for this treacherous action, he defired it might be done. a XVIJJ ip—v—H hatchet, fome fifhing-lines, and feveral other articles were given him, lW0t and he wanted to have fome prefents that were brought for his wife September. ^a_rang^ar0Qt DUt. this being refufed, he readily went to fetch her : a petticoat, and feveral other little prefents were given to the lady, and a red jacket with a filver epaulet, which Bannelong ufed to wear when at the fettlement, were now given him, which pleafed him more than any thing elfe: on being afked to dine with Governor Phillip the next day, he readily confented, and promifed to bring his wife : he likevvifc pointed out a youth and two men to whom hatchets had been given, and faid he would bring them with him alfo. Bannelong's wife, Ba-rang-aroo, appeared to be older than himfelf, and had had two children by a former hufband, both of which were dead : this probably was the woman he had fo often mentioned when at the fettlement, and whom he had taken as a wife fince he left it; lhe likewife had been twice wounded by fpears, one of which had pafled through her thigh. Though Bannelong probably might be glad that Governor Phillip was not killed, yet there is no doubt but that the natives throw their fpears, and take a life in their quarrels, which are very frequent, as readily as the lower clafs of people in England ftrip to box, and think as little of the confequences. Mau-go-ran,the father of the native girl who lived with the clergyman, had a bad wound on the back of his head, which he told the furgeon who drefTed it, was done by a fpear : it feems a difpute had taken place amongft thefe people, about fharing the whale, in which feveral lives were were loft, and this man pot his wound ; and on the girl naming to her chap. & . xvhi. father a youth at Kay-yee-my, who ftie faid would marry her, he told v"~> her not to go there, for they had quarrelled, and would throw fpears, and that they would alfo throw fpears at any white man ; indeed, if this man's information could be depended on, the natives were very angry at fo many people being fent to Rofe-hill certain it is, that wherever our colonifts fix themfelves, the natives are obliged to leave that part of the country. The weather being now very dry, the natives were employed in burning the grafs on the north fhore oppofite to Sydney, in order to catch rats and other animals, whilft the women were employed in fifhing: this is their conftant practice in dry weather. Though Bannelong did not pay Governor Phillip a viftt, as he had promifed, he readily joined thofe he faw in different parts of the harbour, notwithftanding they were armed, and went in his canoe to the longboat, though he faw feveral mufquets in her: his wife was along with him in the canoe, and he gave thofe in the boat to underftand that he would pay the governor a vifit, probably the fear of being detained had hitherto prevented him, but whilft there was the leaft chance of his coming voluntarily, Governor Phillip was not willing to take him a fecond time by force, as it was likely he would foon be reconciled to pafs a confiderable part of his time at Sydnev, when he found he could be his own mafter, and go and come when he pleafed. On the 19th, Governor Phillip went to Rofe-hill and returned to Sydney in the evening. The corn looked better than could be expected; hut, the earth was fo parched up by the dry weather that they could not get CHAP, get the remainder of their Indian corn into the ground until fome rain XVIII. ° <—«>-» fell. The weather for the laft fortnight had frequently been cloudy I79°' and unfettled, and fome light fhowers of rain had fallen at different .September. tjmegj DUt yerv little compared to what the ground required, or what might have been expected at this feafon. In the night of the 24th it began to rain, and fome fmart mowers fell the next day, which enabled them to fow the remainder of their Indian corn j it was alfo of great fervice to the wheat and the vegetables in the gardens. The column intended as a mark for the entrance of the harbour was now finifhed; it ftands (as has already been obferved,) on a cliff, a cable's length from the fouth-head : it is a brick column on a ftone bafe, and rifes to the height of thirty feet. In the night of the 26th of September, five convicts took a punt from Rofe-Hill, in which they came down to the look-out, where they exchanged the punt for a four-oared boat, and got off undifcovered. Thefe people certainly meant to go along the coaft to the northward, and to attempt getting to fome of the Friendly iflands; but this project muft be almoft impoflible, and there was every reafon to fuppofe they would perifh in a very few days. As Governor Phillip and a party were going to Rofe-Hill towards the latter end of September, a native was feen on one of the points; and being afked where Bannelong was, he replied, Memilla (at JVIemill) • ,011 this, they rowed up to the ifland, and when they drew near the rocks, Bannelong came down to the boat, and brought his wife without the leaft appearance of fear, though they were the only perfons on the ifland. There was no fifh in the boat, but they were glad of fome bread, bread, and prefently afterwards the governor and his party left them, c u a p. and from the confidence Bannelong now placed in his vifitors, there «--v--^ was no doubt but he would foon come to the fettlement as ufual. On J79°> the governor's return, two days after this meeting, Bannelong had left °^obt-'1-. the ifland. The governor again went to Rofe-Hill on the 6th of October, and on his return he was repeatedly called to by Bannelong, Who was on the north ihore with feveral officers ; and the furgeon, in whom he placed great confidence, being of the party, perfuaded him to come over to the governor : he brought three natives in his canoe, and they were all well pleafed with hatchets and fifhing-lines which were given them. It feems Bannelong's wife had oppofed his coming, and finding her tears had no effect:, flie flew into a violent paffion, and broke a very fine fiz-gig, for which flie would probably have been very feverely chaftifed on her hufband's return, but for the interference of the furgeon, who carried thefe people back to their cave on the north fliore, where, they intended to refide for fome time. Bannelong appeared very much at his eafe, and not under the leaft apprehenfion of being detained; promifing, when he went away, to bring his wife over, which he did two days afterwards : his lifter and two men came like-wife, and a third foon followed : blankets, and fome cloathing were given them, and each had a belly-full of fifh; Bannelong fat down to dinner with Governor Phillip, and drank his wine and coffee as ufual. The governor bought a fpear from one of his vifitants, and endeavoured to make them underftand that fpears, lines, birds, or any thing they brought fhould always be purchafed j at the fame time he promifed Bannelong a fhield, for which he was to bring a fpear in return, as ac-cuftoming thefe people to barter was judged the moft likely means of bringing them to refide amongft the colonifts. The next day, a large party came over for the fhield, but it was not finifhed: two men of this party Ortober. chap, party were owned by the native girl, who lived with the clergyman, as t- ' her brothers, and for whom flie procured two hatchets, which appeared 119°' to be the mod valuable articles that could be given them. When Bannelong came for his prefent, thofe who accompanied him, after flaying a fliort time, went away, but he flaid dinner, and left the place highly delighted with his fhield, which being made of fole leather and covered with tin, was likely to refill: the force of their fpears. As it was late in the afternoon before Bannelong thought of departing, his wife and fifler, with two men, came over in their canoes to fetch him, fo that there was every appearance of thefe people being perfectly reconciled, and no doubt could be entertained but that they would vifit the fettlement as frequently as could be wifhed. Some days after this interview, a canoe with Bannelong's fifler and feveral young people coming to one of the points of the cove, the girl who had now lived feventeen months with the clergyman's wife, joined them, and was fo defirous of going away that it was confented to : the next day flie was feen naked in a canoe, but flie put on a petticoat before fhe joined the clergyman and fome others who went to vifit her, flie appeared to be pleafed with having her liberty, and the boy, Nanbarre, who was of the party that went to fee her, now wifhed to flay with the natives all night; he was left behind, but the next morning he returned to the furgeon, with whom he lived, and having fared but badly, did not feem inclined to go to them again. The very little rain, which had fallen fince the latter end of June, had deflroyed all their hopes of good crops, and which they had every reafon to expect: till the beginning of September: at prefent, there was the appearance of rain, though it was feared, that it would come too late 5 to to be of any Meat fervice to the corn, though it might five the few chap. vegetables they had in the gardens which were parched up. Some rain u—*—j fell on the 14th and 1 cth of October, but it was barely fufficient to I79°# * Oaobcr, rcfrefh the ground. The natives now vifited the fettlement daily, and Bannelong, who had not been there for feveral days, came early in the morning of the 17th, but took leave of Governor Phillip after breakfafl, faying, that he was going a great way off, and would return, with two young men who were with him, after three days; there was reafon to fuppofe that he was going to fight. If the natives of this country be lefs civilifed than the inhabitants of the neighbouring iflands, they are much honefter; for they very feldom attempt to take any thing by flealth; and, it is certain, that when a thief is caught, they beat him to death with flicks. On the 18th, Governor Phillip was informed, that Colebe, with two little girls and two young men who had before been at the fettlement, were waiting at the next cove to fee him j on this, he went to the place: a hatchet was, as ufual, defired and given, and Colebe promifed to come to dinner the next day, A convict had been milling fome time, and was reported to have been killed by the natives: thofe who could have given any information of this man muft have been with him, and confequently expected punifliment, if they were known, for having left their huts contrary to orders 5 it was, therefore, impoflible to fix the report on any individual, and no information could be gained by thofe who were fent to fearch the country for fome miles round but two parties of the natives had been 3 P feen 474 y. TRANSACTIONS AT chap, feeif, one party confifting of about forty, the other not more than half that number: foon afterwards, Bannelong, with fixteen men and boys, 1790. were met by a ferjeant and three men who had been fent after the con- Oclober. tnat; was mifiing . Bannelong preffed them very much to return with him and kill a native who was well known from having loft an eye, and who was fuppofed to be a leader of the tribe that refide about Botany-Bay; but this requeft not being complied with, the natives continued their route, and Colebe, who was of the party, came to dine with the governor as he had promifed, Bannelong and feveral others accompanying him. At dinner, Bannelong obferved that his fhield was a good one, and faid, that he had been to fight the man who had fome time before wounded him, and that his fpear had gone through both the fhield and hand of his antagonift; he alfo faid, that the people he had been to fight with had killed the man who was loft: however, admitting that to be the cafe, it is more than probable that he had been found by the natives ftealing their fpears or gum, and which the convicts continued to procure, and contrive to fecrete until fhips arrive. On the 18 th of October, the Supply armed tender returned from Batavia: they had loft a lieutenant, the gunner of the Sirius, and feveral feamen at that unhealthy fettlement. The commander of the Supply had intended to go through the ftreights of Macaffer; but when to the weftward of Kercolang, meeting with ftrong gales from the weftward, he bore away to the fouthward, running down near the fmall iflands which are op the weftern coaft of Gillola; and going to the weftward of the ifland of Bouro, to the fouthward of Bouton, and between Salayer and Celebes, had fine weather and favourable winds. Ships PORTJACKSON. 475 Ships leaving the coaft of New South Wales for Batavia, between chap. the months of April and September, fhould keep to the fouthward, and -v-»L> go between New Guinea and Gillolaj they then might make their 179°* paffage in feven or eight weeks, probably in lefs time. The Supply 0ftober» Was eighty days on her paffage, and fixty-four on her return. On the 28th of October, two convicts fuffered death for robbing a hut, and dangeroufly wounding a man who endeavoured to prevent their carrying away his property. The fettlement had now fome heavy fhowers of rain, and the weather continued fhowery for feveral days, but the long drought had deftroyed a very confiderable part of the wheat and barley. The native girl, who had left the fettlement, returned, after being abfent fourteen days; but though flie appeared to have fared badly, and had been beat by her friend Colebe, yet flie would not remain at Sydney .more than two days, after which flie returned to her companions. It now appeared, that Governor Phillip did not wrong the natives in fuppofing that they treated their women with very little tendernefs; for bannelong had beat his wife twice very feverely in a fliort time, and for "which, as far as could be learnt from the girl, he had very little reafon : ftill flie appeared very fond of him, and he profeffed great affection for her, but laughed when he was told that it was wrong to beat a woman: he now vifited the fettlement daily, with his wife, feveral children, and half a dozen of his friends, and Colebe was generally one of the party. Several of thefe people had recently a difpute, in which one of them received two fevere wounds in the head from a fpear, and two others 3 P 2 were chap, were wounded in the head by hatchets $ but the parties appeared two ^—*—j days after the affray as good friends as ever. 1790. Oflober. It has already been obferved, that the natives have fome idea of a future ftate, and that they believe in fpirits; the following circumftance leaves no doubt but that they likewife believe in charms :—Bannelong s wife one day complaining of a pain in the belly, went to the fire and fat down with her hufband, who, notwithstanding his beating her occasionally, feemed to exprefs great forrow on feeing her ill, and after blowing on his hand, he warmed it, and then applied it to the part affected ■> beginning at the fame time a fong, which was probably calculated for the occafion : a piece of flannel being warmed and applied by a bye-ftander, rendered the warming his hand unneceftary, but he continued his fong, always keeping his mouth very near to the part affected, and frequently flopping to blow on it, making a noife after blowing in imitation of the barking of a dog j but though he blew feveral times, he only made that noife once at every paufe, and then continued his fong, the woman always making fhort refponfes whenever he ceafed to blow and bark. How long this ceremony would have continued was uncertain, for Governor Phillip fent for the doctor, and flie was perfuaded to take a little tincture of rhubarb, which gave her relief, and fo put an end to the bufinefs. Bannelong, with his wife and two children, who appeared to have been adopted by him when their parents died, now lived in a hut built for them on the eaftern point of the cove ; they were frequently vifited by many of the natives, fome of whom daily came to the barracks : of them were very fond of bread, and they now found the advantage of coming amongft the fettlers. The The Supply immediately after her arrival began to refit, as Governor CHAP. x VIII Phillip was defirous of fending to Norfolk Iiland fome provifions, and t » many little articles which were wanted, and with which he now had 1:95. it in his power to fupply them ; but on ft ripping the Lower. mafts, the Oftobcr' foreman: was found to be fo bad that it was neceflary to get it out, and when examined, it proved to be fo much decayed that they were obliged to cut feveral feet off the head of the matt, and feveral feet from the heel: the tops, likewifc, were fo much decayed, that they could not be repaired, fo that new ones were to be made. It had hitherto been the opinion at Sydney, that the cuftom of lofing the front tooth amongft the natives was confined to the men only, but a woman was lately feen who had loft the front tooth, and two women were met with who had the feptum of the nofe perforated; one of them was Barangaroo, who now viiited the fettlement dady, in company with her hufband, and feemed to be pleafed as though flie thought herfelf dreft when her nofe was occafionally ornamented with a fmall bone or a bit of flick : flic is very ftrait and exceeding well made ; her features are good, and though flie goes entirely naked, yet there is fuch an air of innocence about her that cloathing. fcarcely appears neceffary. . Thefe people are frequently ornamented, or, to fpeak more properly, disfigured with broad white marks under the eyes and on the breafls; but they feem. to have another motive for ufing this mode of ornament, befides a with of appearing handfome, though as yet it had not been difcovered. The red earth is likewife frequently ufed, generally about the ncfe and under the eyes, CHAPTER CHAPTER XIX. Fruits in feafon defcribed,—The manners of the natives.—Qifputes with them.—Arrival of a veffelfrom Batavia, CHAP. npHE new moon, in the beginning of November:, brought a few u—<~—' hours thunder, and rain for a fliort time, which they ftill con- 17900 tinned greatly to want. November. Several fruits peculiar to the country were now in feafon : that which was fuppofed to be the fruit Captain Cook calls a cherry, the natives .call mizooboore; the tafte of it is infipid, and it differs little from another fruit fimilar in its appearance, but fomething fmaller, and which, as well as the former, is found in great abundance: there is Jikewife a third fort which differs as little in appearance and tafte. Though there is little variety either in the fhape or tafte of the fruits juft mentioned., yet, it is very remarkable that the trees on which they grow are of very different kinds. The fruits, or berries, juft mentioned, have fo infipid a tafte, that they are held in very little eftimation by our colo-nifts; but that is not the cafe with the acid berry, which is about the fize of a currant, and grows on a tree, the leaves of which refemble the broom : the acid of this fruit, even when ripe, is very ftrong, and is, perhaps, the pureft in the world: it is pleafant to the tafte, and Governor Phillip found it particularly fo when on a journey in hot •3 weather % weather: the furgeon held it in great eftimation as an antifcorbutic j and, chap. xix. with a large proportion of fugar, it makes excellent tarts and jellies, v-^, There is alfo another fruit, which, when ripe, is of a tranfparent red I?9°* November, colour, about the fize of a currant, and fhaped like a heart: it has an agreeable flavour, leaving an aftringency on the palate, and cannot be' otherwife than wholefome, as the fettlers had ate great quantities of it at times, without any pernicious confequences. There is like wife a nut, which had violent erTefts on thofe who ate it unprepared : the natives foak it in water for feven or eight days, changing the water every day; and at the expiration of that time they roaft. it in the embers; but the kernel is taken out of the hard fliell with which it is enclofed, previous to its being put into the water : it is nearly equal to the chefnut in goodnefs. Boorong, the native girl who had lived with the clergyman, returned to him again, after a week's abfence: fome officers had been down the harbour, and fhe was very happy to embrace that opportunity of getting from the party fhe had been with. By her own account, flic had joined the young man flie wifhed to marry, and had lived with him three days; but he had another wife, who the girl faid was jealous, and had beat her; indeed, evident marks of this appeared about her head, which was fo bruifed as to require the furgeon's attention : in return for this unkind treatment, it feems her favourite had beat his wife. But opportunities were not now wanting to fhew that the women are in general treated very roughly ; for Colebe brought his wife to vilit Governor Phillip, and though fhe was big with child, and appeared to be within a very few days of her time, there were feveral wounds on her head, which flie faid lie had lately given her: he feemed to be pleafed that flie could fhew her November. °xix ?' ner mar^3> anc* t0°k *°mc P^ns t0 inform the governor that he had beat her with a wooden fword. Early in the morning of the 13th of November, fixteen of the natives vifited the fettlement, and fome fifh being diitributed amongfl them, they made a fire in the governor's yard, and fat down to breakfaft in great good humour: thofe that were Strangers, appeared highly delighted with the novelties that Surrounded them. Amongft the ftrangers, there was a woman whofe fkin, when free from dirt and fmoke, was of a bright copper colour j her features were pleafing, and of that kind of turn, that had fhe been in any European fettlement, no one would have doubted her being a Mulatto Jewefs. Bannelong, who had been for two days with fome of his party at Botany-Bay, came along with thefe people and brought his wife with him : fhe appeared to be very ill, and had a frefli wound on her head, which he gave Governor Phillip to understand fhe had merited, for breaking a rtz-gig and a throwing flick. The governor's reafoning with him on this fubject had no effect; hp /aid me was bad, and therefore he had beat her; neither could it be learned what inducement this woman could have to do an act which fhe .muft have known would be followed by a fevere beating; for Bannelong .cither did not underftand the queftions put to him, or was unwilling to anfwer them. When thefe people had finifhed their breakfast, theyall went to the hofpital to get the womens' heads dreffed ; for befides Bannelong's wife, a woman who was a ftranger, had received a blow on the head, which had laid her fcull bare: after this bufinefs was over, molt of them returned and fat down in the yard at the back of Governor Phillip's houfe but Bannelong went into the houfe as ufual, and finding the governor writing, fat down by him: he appeared very much out of ihumour, and frequently faid that he was going to beat a woman with ?. j hatchet hatchet which he held in his hand : it was impofiible to perfuade him cha?. xix to fay he would not beat her, and after fome time he got up, faying that \-- he could not dine with the governor, as he was going to beat the woman : I79°* Governor Phillip then infilled on going with him, to which he made no objection, though he was given to underftand that he would not be fuffered to beat any woman, and they fet off for his hut at the point* The governor took his orderly ferjeant along with him, and they were joined by the judge advocate. Though Bannelong had frequently faid he would kill the woman, when Governor Phillip was endeavouring to perfuade him not to beat her, yet, it could not be believed that he had any fuch intention ; nor did they fuppofe there would be much trouble in preventing his beating her; however, fearing he might ftrike her a blow with the hatchet which muft have been fatal, it was taken from him before they got to the hut, and as he feemed unwilling to part with it, the governor gave him his cane; but his expreffions and his countenance foon made them think even the cane too much for him to be trufted with, and that was taken from him alfo. On their arrival at the hut, they found five men, two youths, and feveral women and children : fome of thefe people were on the grafs before the door of the hut, and though the governor fixed his eyes on Bannelong, in order to find out the object of his revenge, and whom he determined to protect, yet this furious favage feizcd a wooden fword, and ftruck a young female, who was either afleep, or feeing him coming had hid her face, over the head, and repeated his blow before the weapon could be wrefted from him ; he then got a hatchet, which was likewife taken away. ^ Reafoning Rcafcming with him was now out of the queftion; the favage fury which took pofTeflion of him when he found himfelf kept from the girl, who was lying fenfelefs, is not to be defcribed : he had now got another wooden fword, but the judge-advocate and the fcrjcant held him, and what palled being obferved from the Supply, Lieutenant Ball and the furgeon of the hofpital, came over to the fpot armed, and the poor girl was put into the boat without any oppolition on the part of the natives, who had armed themfelves the moment they faw Governor Phillip and his party interfere, and one of them repeatedly preffed him to give Bannelong the hatchets and fwoid which had been taken from him. None of thefe people, either men or women, (the two youths excepted, who appeared to be much frightened,) fhewed the lead concern at the girl's fate, though they muff have known, that Bannelong intended to kill her, and they certainly armed in his defence. When the boat was gone off with the girl, our party returned to the governor's houfe, feveral of the native men and boys joining them, as well as Bannelong; and, after fome time, when his pafTion began to fubfide, Governor Phillip gave him to underftand, that he was exceedingly angry with him for attempting to kill a woman, and tried to divert him from his purpofe by threats, telling him that if he did kill her, or even beat her any more, he fliould lofe his life ; but threats had no greater effect, than entreaties, and all his anfwers fliewed that he thought himfelf greatly injured by having his victim taken from him ; faying that flie was his, that her father was the man who had wounded him over the eye, that all their tribe were bad, and that the governor fliould fee he would kill her; and when the judge-advocate reafoned with him, and told him that if he killed the girl the governor would kill him, he 7 marked marked with his ringer thofe parts of the head, brcaft, and arms, where chap. be faid he would wound her, before he cut her head off: in this refo- <__ lution he went away, and the girl was removed in the evening from the f79<>. Supply to Governor Phillip's houfe, where a young man who lived with November. Bannelong defired to remain with her, and, from*thc tendernefs he ihewed her when Bannelong was not prefent, was fuppofed to be her hufband; though he had not dared to open his lips, or even to look diffatisfied, when her life was in danger. Several of the natives came to fee this girl, and (except the fuppofed hufband) they all appeared very defirous that flie might return to the hut, though they muft have known that fhe would be killed j and, what is not to be accounted for, the girl herfelf appeared defirous of going. After an abfence of two days, Bannelong returned to the governor's houfe, apparently in good humour, and faid he would not beat the girl; at the fame time he gave them to underftand, that he had again beat his wife about the head, and that he had received a fevere blow on the fliouldcr from a club in return; on this, Governor Phillip propofed their going to the hofpital to have his own moulder and his wife's head dreft, but this he rcfufed, faying, that White (the furgeon) would flioot him, and that he durft not fteep in the houfe which had been built for him, as the furgeon would flioot him in the night; this ftory was not told without many threats on his part; and during the recital, he twice went out to fetch a fpear, which the governor had made him leave in a back room, in order to fhew that he was not afraid, and that he would ufe it if he faw the furgeon j however, Governor Phillip foon convinced him that be was not to be fliot unlefs he killed the girl, or threw fpears 3 CLi at CHAP. at the white men. The moment Bannelong was fatisfied that the furgeon xix * • x^^-L^ was ftill his friend, he faid he would go to him for a plaifter for his '79°' fhoulder, and another for his wife's head; but, as the governor wifhed November. t0 De prefent when they firft met, he fent for the furgeon, whom Bannelong received as ufual, gave him part of what he was eating, and went with him to the hofpital; after which, he went to the furgcon's houfe, and the girl being there to whom he had lately fhewn fo much animofity, he took her by the hand, and fpoke to her in a friendly manner; but this attention fo exafperated his wife, and put her in fuch a rage, that thofe who were prefent at the time could not, without fome difficulty, prevent her from knocking the girl on the head with a club which flie had taken from one of the men for that purpofe; nor did her hufband feem inclined to prevent her till he was fpoke to, when he gave her a pretty fmart flap on the face; on this, his wife left them crying with paffion, and came over to the governor's houfe, where the girl was now brought for greater fecurity, and was followed by feveral men. Governor Phillip had ordered the girl to be put into his maid fervant's room, with which Bannelong feemed pleafed, and defired him to let the young man who had remained with her at the furgeon's, ftay there likewife : in the mean time, his wife was very noify, and ufed many threats; flie had got her hufband's fpears, which flie fit down upon, and would not give them up to a foldier, whom the governor had ordered to take them from her/ until force was ufed ; and when the foldier had them, Bannelong wanted to take them from him, faying he would give them to the governor : they were then delivered to him, and he immediately gave them to Governor Phillip, making figns for them to be put into the houfe : this, at a time when there was a guard of foldiers drawn up in the yard, and when he was telling his companions, that the foldiers would fire, fliewed that he placed fome confidence in the governor; though at the fame time* PORT JACKSON. 48s time, he was very violent, and appeared very much inclined to ufe his chap. XIX club againft thofe who prevented his going into the houfe; and one of v^v-^ the natives who was generally his companion, feemed ready to fupport him in any attempt he might be difpofed to make; on this they were Novcmbcr« given to underftand, that if any of the foldiers were ftruck, they would be put to death, and Governor Phillip immediately ordered them all to be turned out of the yard, except Bannelong and the young man he had defired might remain with the girl: Bannelong's wife was turned away amongft the reft, but this did not prevent his ftaying to dinner, and behaving with the fame indifference as if nothing had paffed; and, in the evening when he was going away, a fcene took place which was little expected : the young man who had been fo defirous of remaining with the girl, would now go away, and the girl cried, and forced her way out of the room to go with Bannelong : fhe was brought in again, and told if lhe went away fhe would be beat, but Bannelong faid he would not beat her, neither was his wife angry with her now; and the young man preffed Governor Phillip very much to let her go, fiying Ba- rangaroo would hot beat the girl, as her paftion was over, and fhe was now very good. As the information of Barangaroo's anger having fo entirely fubfided, could only have been brought by a boy, who had returned to the houfe in the afternoon, the governor was not the leaft inclined to let the girl go away j but there was no poffibility of detaining her unlefs flie was confined, and there appeared fo much fincerity in Bannelong's countenance, when he faid fhe fliould not be beat, that leave was given, and the moment the girl was without the gate, fhe ran towards Bannelong's hut, without waiting for thofe who were going along with her. Governor CHAP. Governor Phillip himfelf was fully perfuaded that Bannelong would u—v—i keep his word, but the general opinion was, that the girl would be T79°- facrificcd; and in the evening, a confiderable number of natives being ' Jfeen about the hut, gave rife to various ftories; but the next day, Bannelong came to dinner, and faid, he had fent the girl to her father, which was afterwards confirmed by others. How Bannelong got this -girl into his pofteffion could not be learnt; but it appeared flie was the fame girl whom he went to look after when he ran away from the fettlement : fhe appeared to be about fifteen years of age, and when fhe went away, her wounds were in a fair way of doing well: fortunately for her, the weapon which had firft. prefented itfelf when Bannelong beat her, was a boy's wooden fword, and made of very light wood ; but thefe people pay little attention to wounds, and even thofe which by the faculty are deemed dangerous, do not feem to require the common attention of doling the lips of the wound and keeping it clean j this fhews that they muft be of a moft excellent habit of body. Governor Phillip having occafion to go to Rofe-Hill, Bannelong faid he would accompany him : accordingly they fet out, and flopped at the point, in order to take Barangaroo into the boat; but fhe refufed, and perfuaded her hufband not to go. On the governor's return to Sydney, he was informed that this party had been lamenting the lofs of a brother, who had been killed by one,of the Cammeragals: the women were crying in the ufual manner, but their grief was not of long duration, and Bannelong went to breakfaft with fome officers, who, hearing the womens' cries, had gone to the hut to learn the caufe j and as they were going down the harbour to look after a fmall boat belonging to the hofpital, which had been loft, with five convicts, he defired them to land him on .the north fhore, in order, it was fuppofed, to collect all hij friends, and and revenge his brother's death: however, he was feen foon afterwards chap. with fome of the Cammeragals, who were collecting the wild fruits which v--y—„/ were now in feafon; fo that he muff have been mifunderlfood as to his I79°* r C November, intention of fighting with the Cammeragals; nor can we account lor his being frequently with a tribe whom he always fpoke of as bad, and defired Governor Phillip to kill; and what was equally mysterious, a man belonging to the Botany-Bay tribe had for more than a fortnight fl.pt at his hut, though he faid the man was bad, and fpoke of him as his enemy. The party who went in fearch of the boat found the wreck of her, and one of the bodies; as the boat had been feen under fail when it blew hard, it fliould feem that the men fent in her did not know how to manage her, and were driven on the rocks. Several natives aflifled in faving the oars and other articles that were driven afhore ; and Colebe, who was on the fpot, exerted himfelf greatly on this occafion, and faved the feine, which was entangled amongfl the rocks: for thefe fervices, they were all rewarded with blankets and fome cloathing; but, however well you may cloath thefe people, they generally return naked the next day. Of all the cloaths and the multiplicity of other articles which had been given to Bannelong, very little now remained in his poffeifion ; his fhield, and mofl of his cloaths, were, by his own account, fent a great diflance off; but whether he had lofl them, or given them away, was uncertain. In the evening of the 2ifl of November, Bannelong and his wife came to Sydney, and he requested leave to fleep in Governor Phillip's houfe, as there were a great number of people at Tu&ow-guU, the point on which their hut Stood. Bannelong told the governor, that the Cammeragals CHAP, meragals had killed Kis friend, or relation, for we are not clear that thefe XIX* i_,,-y— „; words in their language, which had been fuppofed to mean Father or x79°' Brother, are made ufe of by the natives in that fenfe: he faid, they had November. ^umt ^ body, which he feemed to lament j and being told, that Governor Phillip would take the foldiers and punifh them, he prefl him very much to go and kill them: indeed, from the firft; day he was able to make himfelf underftood, he was defirous to have all the tribe of Cammeragal killed, yet he was along with that tribe when Governor Phillip was wounded, and, as hath already been obferved, was feen with them fince the lofe of his friend, or brother. After Bannelong and his wife had fupped they retired to fleep in a back room, and he was particularly anxious for the governor to lock the door and put the key in his pocket; from which circumftance, it is probable he had other reafons for coming that evening to fleep at the governor's houfe, hefidcs that of having a number of people at his own habitation. When Governor Phillip's guefts left him, the girl who lived with the clergyman went away with them, and ftept at their hut, nor would me probably have returned till lire was compelled by hunger, or had received a beating; but being feen the next morning in a canoe, fiftiing, fhe very readily returned with the perfon who had been fent to look -after her. Many of the fmall ftreams of water in different parts of the harbour were dried up, and at Sydney, the run of water was fmall, but it afforded sfufficient for the ufe of the fettlement; nor was there any reafon to fuppofe they would ever want water. At Rofe-Hill, the fettlers never can be under any apprehenfions on that head, and though from the ftream being .fmall in dry weather, the water has an unpleafant tafte, occafioned 6 by by a number of dead trees falling into the brook, yet that may be pre- chap, XIX vented hereafter: it will alfo be neceffary, at fome future period, to *— make a dam acrofs the creek, in order to prevent the tides making the »79o. water brackifh at the lower part of it: when that is done, it will not be IS0Kniber* a difficult matter to carry a run of water at the back of thofe houfes which are fituated at the greateft. diftance from the brook. A new ftore at Rofe-Hill, which the workmen had been building for fome time paft, was tiled in on the 25th of November, and a barrack of the fame dimenfions (100 feet by 24 feet 6 inches) was immediately begun. At the latter end of the month, the weather was unfettled, with frequent fhowers of rain: moft of the barley was now ripe, and they began to houfe it. The 3d of December was a day of conftant December, rain, which continued during the night. Governor Phillip had recently ordered a fmall hut to be built for his own accommodation at Rofe-Hill, and he was going to remain there a few days, when feveral of the natives were defirous of accompanying him, amongft whom were Bannelong and Colebe: the governor got into his boat with three of them, and Bannelong, going to fetch his cloak, was detained by his wife; however, as they were going out of the cove, he appeared on the rocks, and got into the boat notwithftanding her threats; but, the moment the boat put off, fhe went to her canoe, which was a new one, and after driving her paddles through the bottom, flie threw them into the water, and afterwards went off to their hut, probably to do more damage. The hufband had endeavoured to pacify her, and promifed feveral times not to be abfent more than one night j as it was likely that he would prefer remaining behind, though he appeared unwilling to afk to be landed, it was propofed to him, and 3 R after CHAP, after picking up the paddles which his wife had thrown away, he wa* XIX. c-^-v^' put on fhore: the governor then proceeded to Rofe-Hill, with Colebe 179°« and two other natives, none of whom ever opened their lips during this December, altercation : indeed, none of thefe people have ever been feen to interfere with what did not immediately concern themfelves. The three natives flept that night at Rofe-Hill, and though fed very plentifully, yet, the next morning, they were very defirous of returning ; on this, Governor Phillip fent the boat down with them, on the return of which he fully expected to hear that miftrefs Barangaroo's head was under the care of the furgeon; but, to his great furprife, both flie and her hufband came up in the boat the next morning, and Bannelong faid he had not beat her; but whether he was deterred by what had fo frequently been faid to him on the fubject, or from fome other caufe, could not be known : however, a reconciliation had taken place, and they both dined with the governor in great good humour. Every thing this couple wifhed for was given them, and they had both fifh and baggaray 5 but after dinner was over, the lady wanted to return, and Bannelong faid fhe would cry if fhe was not permitted to go; fo that late in the afternoon, the governor was obliged to fend the boat down with them. It is rather lingular that none of the natives like Rofe-Hill, probably becaufe fifh is feldom procured there : both Arrabannu and Bannelong, whilfl they lived with Governor Phillip, always appeared to dillike going there, and after the firft day, would be^ continually preffing him to return to Sydney. Lieutenant Lieutenant Ball, who commanded the Supply, had been ill for fome chap. xix time ; and when Governor Phillip returned from Rofe-Hill on the nth i.. .„v, L^j of December, the furgeon informed him that there were little hopes of *79°-Mr. Ball's recovery: at the fame time he was told, that his game- Dccembeu keeper had been brought in fo dangeroufly wounded by a fpear, that there was little probability of faving his life. It feems the game-keeper went out with three others, one of whom was a ferjeant; and in the heat of the day, they retired to a hut which they had made with boughs, and went to fleep. One of them waking, and hearing a noife in the bufhes, fuppofed it to be fome animal; but on their coming out of the hut, four natives jumped up from amongft the bufhes and ran away : the game-keeper, fuppofing one of them to be a man who had been at Sydney, as he appeared to have been fhaved and his hair cut, followed them without his gun, (though the moft pofltive orders had been given for no one ever to join the natives unarmed) calling on them to flop, and he would give them fome bread j and obferving that one of thofe who followed him from the hut had a gun in his hand, he bid him lay it down, faying, that the natives would not hurt him : the game-keeper had now advanced forty or fifty yards before his companions, and was not more than ten yards from one of the natives, who flopped j and getting on a tree which had been burnt down, and was lying on the ground, he furveyed thofe who approached him : in a moment he found they were unarmed, fo, fixing his fpear, he threw it at the man who was neareft to him: the fpear entered on the left fide, and penetrated the lower lobe of the lungs : it was barbed, and confecmently could not be extracted till a fuppuration took place. Immediately after throwing the fpear, the native fled, and was foon out »f fight of the man who followed him. As they were eleven miles 3 R 2 from chap, from Sydney when this accident happened, it was not without fome K____v——; difficulty that the unfortunate game-keeper could he brought in after his 1790, ftrength failed him: he was of the catholic perflation, but on being brought .December, to the hofpital, he defired to have the clergyman fent for, to whom he confefled that he had been a bad man, and defired his prayers; but, at the fame time, he declared that he had never killed or wounded any native, except once; when, having had a fpear thrown at him, he difcharged his piece, which was loaded with fmall fliot, and poflibly wounded the man who threw the fpear: this declaration, made at the time he requefted the furgeon not to attempt taking out the fpear, until he had afked pardon of his God, whom, he faid, he had often offended, added to the teftimony of thofe who were with him, left no room to doubt that the native had taken the advantage of their being unarmed, without having received any kind of provocation. The natives had been frequently told, that numbers of them would be killed if they continued to throw fpears ; and both Bannelong and the girl who lived with the clergyman had repeatedly faid, that the tribes which refided about Botany-Bay and the inland parts near the head of that harbour, always killed the white men; yet, as it was evident that they had generally received fome provocation on the part of cur fettlers, Governor Phillip was unwilling to proceed to extremities whilft there was a poflibility of avoiding it: many of the natives had recently vifited the fettlement; they had all been well received, and fome of their children frequently remained there for feveral days, without their parents ever feeing them ; and if any of them were going where their children would be an incumbrance, they ufed to leave them at Sydney. Bannelong, Colebe, and two or three others, now lived at Sydney three or four days in the week, and they all repeatedly defired 8 thofe thofe natives might be killed who threw fpears; at the fame time, Governor CHAP. XIX. Phillip began to fufpecf, though very unwillingly, that there was a great v-—v-^> deal of art and cunning in Bannelong; he had lately been at Botany- »79©. Bay, where, he faid, they danced, and that one of the tribe had fung a Dccember* fong, the Subject, of which was, his houfe, the governor, and the white men at Sydney: the people of that tribe, he faid, would not throw any more fpears, as they and the Cammeragals were all friends, and were good men; this was only a few days after he had faid that |ae liked his houfe at the point, becaufe the Botany-Bay men and the Cammeragals would not come to it on account of the white men; and had, as ufual, whenever thofe tribes were mentioned, requefted the governor to kill them all. The game-keeper was well known to thofe natives who frequented Sydney, and when they faw him at the hofpital, they expreffed great marks of forrow, all the women and feveral of the men ihedding tears. Colebe, who, it feems, underflood the nature of wounds, and their method of drawing teeth, faid, that the fpear muft remain for fome time before it was drawn out, as it was barbed : at the fame time he made figns that the man would die. It appeared rather extraordinary that the natives fliould immediately know the man who wounded the game-keeper, and his tribe; they faid, his name was Pemulhiway, of the tribe of Bejigal, and both Colebe and Bannelong promifed to bring him to the fettlement j but the former, after remaining at Sydney that night and part of the next day, went oft*, as was fuppofed, to Botany-Bay; and Governor Phillip going down the harbour, in confequence of a number of natives being feen armed at the look-out, found Colebe there, who returned to Sydney the next day, and chap, did not feem inclined to give himfelf any trouble about Pemullaway, xix. 1 —,~ -> but left the governor's houfe after dinner, to go, as he laid, to his wife, '79°' who was at Botany-Bay. Bannelong had not appeared for fome days; December. /• *j i. m n r he was laid to be gone to amir, at the ceremony of drawing the front tooth from fome young men, and as he went to the diitricf in which the Cammeragals refide, there can fcarcely be a doubt but that the tooth is paid as a tribute. The native girl who lived with the clergyman, had left his houfe fome time, and now refided with the Cammeragals: on going away, fhe promifed to return with the young man file wanted to marry, and his prefent wife; from which circumftance it feems pretty clear, that when a native can procure two women, the cufloni of the country allows them to have two wives i and there is fome reafon to fuppofe that moft of their wives are taken by force from the tribes with whom they are at variance, as the females bear no proportion to the males. It became abfolutely neceffary to put a flop to the natives throwing fpears, againft which it was impoflible to guard in going through the woods, and Governor Phillip wifhed to do it with as little feverity as poflible; yet he was well convinced that nothing but a fevere example, and the fear of having all the tribes who refided near the fettlement deftroyed, would have the defired effect : for this purpofe, a party were fent out on the 14th of December, confifling of two captains, two lieutenants, four noncommiffioned officers, and forty privates: the furgeon, and a furgeon's mate belonging to the Sirius, went with the party, and the three perfons who were with the game-keeper when he was wounded, went as guides. The governor's motive for fending fb large a party was, that if a number of the natives fliould be found together, gether, they might be deterred from making any refinance, or attempting chap. to refcue thofe who might be fecured as prifoners. The oflicer who —-* commanded this party was directed to proceed to the fpot where the I79°* i ' December game-keeper had been wounded, and to fearch for the natives in that part of the country; fix of whom were to be fecured and brought in as prifoners; or if that was found impracticable, fix of them were to be put to death; fpears, and all other weapons which they happened to meet with, were to be deftroyed and left on the ground, that the natives niight fee it was intended as a punifhment inflicted on them ; particular attention was alfo to be paid to the women and children, who were not to be injured on any account whatever; and, as Governor Phillip wifhed to imprefs the natives with an idea that no deceit was ever ufed, and that they might always depend on having protection after it had been once offered -y on this occafion, none of the party were ever to hold up their hands, (which, amongft the natives, is a fignal that they come as friends) nor to anfwer that fign of friendfliip if made to them. It was more than probable that the man who threw the fpear would not be found, though Colebe had faid he might eafily be known by the toes of his left foot having been bruifed with a club ; and there was reafon to fear that the innocent might fuffer; but the natives had lately hehaved with a boldnefs and infolence on feveral occafions, which it was abfolutely neceffary to check, and the punifhments inflicted on a few* Would, in the end, be an act of mercy to numbers. A fuppuration taking place in the game-keeper*s wound, the fpeair Vvas taken out; it was armed with fmall pieces of red ftone, and had Penetrated feven inches and an half into his body, though the point Was broke off by finking againft a rib : from this circumftance, fome j judgment ■ chap, judgment may be formed of the force with which thefe fpears are xix. S__ -t—' j thrown. They generally are armed for feven or eight inches from the "79°' point, with fmall bits of fharp flone, bone, or (hells; and, fince our fettling amongfl them, bits of glafs bottle: thefe are fixed on with the yellow gum, which is foftened by fire, and afterwards grows hard and firm, making a very good cement; this the natives alfo ufe to flop the. leaks in their canoes. The fpear with which the game-keeper was wounded, being fhewn to one of the natives, he immediately named the tribe to whom it belonged which fhews that fome of them arm their weapons differently from others, and that they are all marked ; this, as they have no places to fecure them in, effectually prevents their robbing one another. The party who had been fent out in fearch of the natives, returned on the 17th of December, without being able to get near any of them, as they all fled at their approach, and eluded their purfuit. They found Colebe near the head of Botany-Bay, where he was Striking fifh, and ran fome rifk. of being fhot. The fame afternoon, the veflel arrived which had been hired at Batavia to bring provifions to the colony, having been eighty-eight days on her paffage, and buried fixteen of her crew. In the evening of the 22d, a party were again fent out towards the head of Botany-Bay; they were to endeavour to fecure fome of the natives, and had- the fame orders as were given before on that head. They left the parade in the evening, and hopes were entertained that they would be able to furprize fome of the natives at their fires; but they did not fee a Single inhabitant during two days which they remained oat. Colebe Colebe had left his wife at Botany-Bay, and flie came over to Sydney chap. XIX on the 23d of December, bringing an infant with her not more than t ' two or three days old; the child was laid on a piece of bark, and both "79°* the parents appeared to treat it with great tendernefs : they took up ■ their refidence for that night in Governor Phillip's houfe, and a family, who accompanied Colebe's wife, gave an opportunity of obferving, that the marriage ceremony in this country, whatever it may be, is not very binding: this man belonged to the tribe who refide about Botany-Bay, but he had occasionally lived at Sydney for fome time paft, and a woman whofe name was Mawberry, had been his wife; but, it feems, he had broke her arm with beating her, and had turned her away; and he had got another woman for a wife, who came along with him, bringing alfo a child about three years of age. Mawberry, his firft wife, happened to be at the governor's houfe when he came in, and did not feem pleafed at the meeting. This man, with his wife and child, after remaining at Governor Phillip's two days, were going away 5 and, as ufual, had bread and fiih given them for their journey; but, it fhould feem, that they could not agree, for he took away his firft wife, and left the woman and child who came along with him behind. The poor woman fried tears when Governor Phillip enquired into the matter, and, after repeatedly ufing the word yalloway, which is a term of execration, flie faid fhe would live with his fervants, which fhe was permitted to do. Befides this perfon, Governor Phillip had a further addition to his family of a young woman, who for fome time had been defirous of being received amongft his maid fervants, and a youth about fourteen years of age, both of whom appeared much pleafed with their fituations. The weather was fo intenfely hot on the 27th of December, that the thermometer ftood at 102° in the fliade. as CHAPTER 3SS CHAPTER XX. The depredations of the natives.—Bannelong's behaviour.—The Supply fails for Norfolk-Ifland.—The quantity of provifions brought in the Waakfam~ heldfrom Batavia.—The appearance of a prodigious number of Bats.—-The return of Bannelong.—The manners of the natives further defcribed* SEVERAL of the natives who had been pretty conftant visitors at Sydney for fome weeks, were detected ftealing potatoes on the 28th of December; and, on the perfon they belonged to, endeavouring to> drive them out of his garden, a fiz-gig was thrown at him. Thefe people had lately made a practice of threatening any perfon whom they found in a hut alone, unlefs bread was given to them; and one of thofe who were fufpected in the prefent inftance, had, on feveral occafions, (hewn himfelf to be a daring fellow, who did not feem to dread any confequences. As it was neceflary to prevent thefe depredations in future, a ferjeant and fix privates were fent out in order to fecure the three natives who had been digging up the potatoes, and particularly the man who threw the fiz-gig; but not to fire on them, unlefs they made ufe of their fpears or other offensive weapons. Governor Phillip, accompanied by two or three officers, followed the party to a place where the natives had retired and made a fire; at which, the ferjeant, who arrived there a few minutes before, found two men, one of whom he laid hold of, and the other was feized by the furgeon's mate of the Sirius,. Sirius, who went with the party, as he knew the men they were in CHAP. XX fearch of: both thefe men, however, got away ; and a club, which at i—-v^j firft was taken for a fpear, being thrown by one of them, three mufquets 1'9°* were fired. Two women and a child were found at the fire, but as it cccmbcr* was then dark, it was in vain to look for the two men, though one of them was fuppofed to be wounded. The women were brought away, together with feveral flicks, which the natives ufe for digging roots, and fome other articles, in order to learn more fully who were the aggreffors. The women, though alarmed at firft, yet, when they got to Governor Phillip's houfe, appeared under no concern, but flept that night in a fhed in the yard, as much at their eafe as if nothing had happened; though it was impoftible for them to know that the men fired at were not killed; and one of them was hufband to one of the women : the other woman was fhe who had been left at the governor's houfe, when her hufband took away a former wife. The fiz-gig, which had been thrown at the man in the garden, being fhewn to thefe women, they faid it belonged to a native who has already been noticed as a daring fellow ; indeed he was fo much fo, that though Governor Phillip thought it neceffary to watch for an opportunity of checking his infolenee, he could not but admire his fpirit. Some bread and fifh being given to the women the next morning, they went away, well pleafed with their reception. On the 29th of December, Bannelong made his appearance at Governor Phillip's houfe, after an abfence of ten days, and brought his wife with him • he faid he had been with a great number of the Ca- 3 S 2 meragals, Cxx P* rncratoa^s> anc* tney naa drawn the front tooth from feveral young men, 4-*-'and had raifed thofe fears which the natives regard as ornaments. The l79°* largeft of thefe fears are made by cutting two lines through the fkin, December. parallel to each other, with a fharp fhell, and afterwards ftripping off the intermediate fkin : this operation is repeated till the wound rifes confiderably above the flefh, after which, it is fuffered to heal over. Thefe fears, or ornaments, are not very common among the women, yet fome have them on the arms, back, and breafts. Bannelong had a throwing-ftick, which he took pains to fhew had been cut for the purpofe of knocking out the front tooth, and there was fome reafon to think he had performed that office : it feems, he was now on good terms with the Cameragals, as he faid they were all good men; and being afked if he had feen the man who threw the fpear at Governor Phillip, he faid yes, and had flept with him j nor was there any reafon to fuppofe he had ever beat, or even quarreled with him on that account. Bannelong's wife, who had been with him on this excurfion, was painted in a different manner to what fhe had been feen before, and it appeared to have been done with a good deal of attention : her cheeks, nofe, and upper lip, were rubbed over with red ochre, on which, and under the eyes, fome white clay was laid in fpots; the fmall of her back was likewife rubbed with red ochre, and fire feemed to be fenfible that fhe was finer than common. After dinner, this couple went away, and the girl who had been defirous of living with the governor's fervants, wanted to go along with them, which fhe was permitted to do. This girl, who might be about eighteen years old, ftripped herfelf before flie went away, but kept her night-cap to fleep in, as her head had been fhaved when fhe was firft taken into the governor's family: fhe never had been under any kind of reftraint, fo that her going away could only proceed from a preference to the manner of life in which fhe had been brought up, up, and which is rather furprifing, as the women are certainly treated chap. xx with great cruelty ; this, however, the cuftom of the country feems to i have perfectly reconciled them to. December. Two colonists, who had been in a boat fifhing, returned with a piece of intelligence very little to the credit of Bannelong, who had robbed them of what fifh they had caught; and, as they had no arms, and he had feveral fpears in his canoe, along with his wife and fifler, they were deterred from making any refiflance. In confequence of the fifhing-boat being robbed, orders were given that no boat in future fhould go out of the cove unarmed, and the natives were forbid ever going to the weftern point of the cove, where they Stole the potatoes and threw the fiz-gig- Three convicts, who went into the woods contrary to orders, were loft for feveral days; and when found, they were pretty feverely punifhed : this, however, did not prevent one of thefe men from going out again, and he had now been fo long abfent, that there was no doubt but that he perifhed from hunger : another fell into the brook at Rofe-Hill, and was drowned. The number of deaths this year, 1790, were, From ficknefs, - - - - 142 Loll in the woods, - 4 Executed, - - - - - 4 Drowned, ----- 6 The total number of deaths, - 156 5 On chap. On the 3d of January, 1791, feveral of the natives came to Governor *—v^-^ Phillip's houfe, and told him that the native who had been fired at on the 28th of December, was wounded and would die; it was explained January ^ tflcm, that the reafon of his being fired at, was, his attempting to wound a white man : on this, they did not appear diffatisfied. Bannelong and his wife came in foon afterwards, and Governor Phillip charged him with taking the fifh from the two colonifts, which he denied; faying he had been a great way off; but when the two perfons were fent for, and he found himfelf known, he entered into a long converfation, the purport of which was, an endeavour to juflify himfelf j and this he did with an infolence that explained itfelf very clearly : he frequently mentioned the man who had been wounded, and threatened revenge; but appearing to recollect himfelf, he offered the governor his hand, which not being accepted, he grew violent, and feemed inclined to make ufe of his flick. One of the centinels was now called in, as it was much feared he would do fome violent act, tliat would oblige Governor Phillip to order him to be put to death; for his behaviour was the height of favage infolence, and would have been immediately punifhed in any other perfon , but this man had fo often made ufe of the word be-ab-nah, that they wifhed to bring him to reafon without proceeding to force j efpecially, as it was fuggefted by an officer who was in the room, that he might not be under ftood clearly, and the governor was very unwilling to deftroy the confidence Bannelong had for fome time placed in him> which the flighteft punifhment or confinement would have done : he therefore told him to come near, for he was then ftanding at fome diftance, but he refufed and went away. Bannelong had not left the governor with any intention of returning > for, in pafling the wheelwright's fhop, the workmen being at dinner, he Hole a hatchet, with which, though purfued, he got clear off. 7 In PORT JACKSON. j0j In the afternoon of the 3d, the furgeon and fome others went to the chap. XX place where the wounded native was faid to be, having directions to 1. v [_, bring him to the hofpital, if there were any hopes of his recovery. January, When they got to the fpot to which the native boy and girl, who were in the boat, directed them, two natives appeared; one of whom, having been concerned in ftealing the potatoes, kept at a diftance; the other came near enough to converfe with them, and faid, the man they were in fearch of was dead, in an adjoining cove, whither they went and found his body. The ball had palfed through the fhoulder, and had cut the fubclavian artery: the body was warm, and as his friends had left it covered with fome boughs and fern, it was probable they did not intend either to bury or burn it. It proved to be the man who had thrown the fiz-gig ; and as there was a neceftity for firing on him, the taking place of the ball was rather to be wifhed for. The woman who had been deferted by her hufband, after remaining eight or ten days at Governor Phillip's houfe, went away on the 5th of January, and was reconciled to him again; his firft wife now lived with another man, but fhe frequently vifited Sydney, and was faid to have granted favours to feveral of the convicts. All the wheat and barley was now houfed, except what was fown very-late, and yielded better than could have been expected after the long drought. On the 18th, her Majefty's birthday was celebrated with the cuftomary marks of refpect. The Supply, having been put into thorough repair, failed out of the cove on the 19th, with provifions and ftores for Norfolk Ifland -y but the wind coming round to the fouth-eaft, fhe was obliged to anchor, and did not get out of the harbour till the 22d, The The game-keeper, who was wounded on the 9th of December, as hath already been related, died on the 20th of January: his death was fudden, as at one time he was thought to be in a very fair way of recovery, being able to walk about. On opening the body, it appeared that the lungs on the left fide, which had been.wounded, were entirely wailed away: the pleura firmly adhered to the ribs for fome inches round the wound ; feveral of the fmall If ones with which the fpear had been armed, were found adhering to the fide, and the rib againft which the fpear had broke, was fplintered. A confiderable quantity of ground was now cleared, and large" enclosures were made for cattle, which there was reafon to hope would be brought from the Cape of Good Hope, by the fhips daily expected to arrive with the remainder of the corps raifed for the fervice of this country, and the convicts from Ireland. The perfon who had hitherto fuperintended the labour of the convicts, died on the 28th of January. This man left England with Governor Phillip, as a fervant; but he had employed him in the public fervice from their firft landing, and few men, who may hereafter be placed in his fituation, will attain that af-cendency which he had over the convicts, or be able to go through fo much fatigue. He was replaced by a fupejintendant who came from England in the laft (hips. The Dutch veffel, which had been hired at Batavia to bring provifions purchafed for the Colony, and which arrived at Port Jackfon on the 17th of December, 1790, was cleared, and was ready for fea by the 5th of February. The provifions brought in her confifted of one hundred and feventy-one barrels of beef, one hundred and feventy-two barrels of pork, thirty-nine barrels of flour, one thouiand pounds of of fugar, and feventy thoufand pounds of rice: five pounds in the chap. hundred were to be allowed as lofs on the rice; and after that deduction, there was a deficiency of forty-two thoufand nine hundred pounds; for which, the mailer of the veffel would only allow the commiffary at the rate of one halfpenny a pound; or, if paid in butter, at the rate of one pound of butter for eighteen pounds of rice : he had rice and flour on board, which he called his own property; and as he was a foreigner, and particularly circumstanced, the commiffary was ordered to accept the butter in lieu of the deficiency of rice. This veffel was hired by the officer, who commanded the Supply armed tender, and who was obliged to accept her at three hundred and fifty tons meafurement, though fhe did not meafure three hundred tons: the freight for bringing the provifions was fixed at twenty-eight thoufand rix-dollars; bills for which had been given at Batavia. The mafter on his arrival, laid, that after leaving Port Jackfon, he fliould proceed to New Guinea in fearch of fpices, which that ifland was fuppofed to produce ; he was alfo to Stop at Timur and feveral other fettlements before he returned to Batavia: at the fame time, he offered the veffel for Sale, or to lett her on freight; but as he conjectured that the colony wanted fuch a veflel, his demands were exorbitant. He firft valued her at fixty thoufand rix-dollars, and before he was ready to fail, he offered her for two and thirty thoufand rix-dollars. If fhe was hired, he talked of eleven pounds Sterling per month , but no attention being paid to any of thefe demands, he came down to forty (hillings Sterling a ton per month, if let on freight to carry the officers and feamen who had belonged to the Sirius to England; that freight to be paid until the vellel ihould return to Batavia.-He was now ready to fail, and finding no attention would be paid to any fuch propofals, he offered to fell the veflel for thirty thoufand rix-dollars, or to go to England on freight at forty ^ T Shillings chap, fhillings per ton ; the veffel to be continued in pay for two months after i__her arrival at Portfmouth or Plymouth; or to have twenty thoufand rix-dollars for the voyage. A confiderable time had palfed fince c rwjy. Qovernor Phillip had reafon to expect the arrival of fome fhips from England, and he wifhed to fecure a veffel for fending home the officers and men who had belonged to the Sirius, or to fend for a farther fupply of provifions, fliould no fhips arrive before the month of March : the Dutch veffel was, therefore, hired at twenty millings per ton. Two native youths who had frequently left Governor Phillip's houfj, in order to have their front teeth drawn, had now been abfent feveral days for that purpofe. They were feen in a bay down the harbour cn the 8th of February, where a confiderable number of the natives were affcmbled, it was fuppofed not lefs than a hundred, including women and children. Moil of the men were painted, and it fliould feem that they were affembled for the purpofe of drawing the front teeth from feveral men and boys. Soon afterwards, the two youths returned to the governor's; they had their heads bound round with rufhes, which were fplit, and the white fide was put outwards: feveral pieces of reed wei£ fluck through this fillet and came over the forehead ; their arms were likewife bound round and ornamented in the fame manner, and each had a black ftreak on his breaft, which was broad at one end, and terminated in a point. They had loft their front teeth, and confidering their manner of drawing teeth in this country, it was not furprifing to fee that one of them had loft a piece of his jaw-bone, which was driven out with the tooth. Both thefe boys appeared to be in pain, but they would not own it, and feemed to value themfelves on having undergone the operation; though though why it is performed, or why the females lofe a part of the little chap. x x, finger, could not as yet be learnt. » v-—v—^ 179L February, The weather was very clofe and fultry, and the natives having fired the country for feveral miles round, the wind, which blew ftrong on the 12th, was heated to a very extraordinary degree, particularly at Rofe-Hill, where the country was on fire for feveral miles to the northward and fouthward. Great numbers of parroquets were picked up under the trees, and the bats, which had been feen frequently flying about Rofe-Hill foon after the evening clofed in, and were fuppofed to go to the fouthward every night, and return to the northward before the day broke, now appeared in immenfe numbers : thoufands of them were hanging on the branches of the trees, and many dropped down, unable to bear the burning winds. The head of this bat ftrongly refembles that of a fox, and the wings of many of them extend three feet ten inches : Governor Phillip taw one which meafured upwards of four feet from the tip of each wing. Some were taken alive, and would eat boiled rice, or other food readily out of the hand, and in a few days were as domeftic as if they had been bred in the houfe: the governor had one, a female, that would hang by one leg a whole day without changing its pofition; and in that pendant fituation, with its breaft neatly covered with one of its wings, it ate whatever was offered it, lapping out of the hand like a cat. Their fmell is Stronger than that of a fox ; they are very fat, and are reckoned by the natives excellent food. From the numbers which fell into the brook at Rofe-Hill, the water was tainted for feveral days, and it was fuppofed that more than twenty thoufand of them were feen within the fpace of one mile. 3 T 2 The The dry weather ftill continued, and many runs of water which were confiderable at this feafon the laft year, were now dried up j but the brook at Rofe-Hill, though greatly reduced, was ftill a run of water that would fupply more inhabitants than that fettlement is likely to contain for many years; and in all the ponds there was plenty of good water; nor had the dry weather affected a fpring that rifes on the fide of a hill, the water of which is better than what the brook affords. At Sydney, the run of water was now very fmall, but was fuflicient for all. culinary purpofes, and fliould it hereafter be found neceffary, wells may eafily be made : a well at Governor Phillip's houfe was very little affected, by the drought. The natives continued to vifit Sydney after Bannelong ftole the hatchet, and behaved in a manner that gave every one reafon to think, he never would return ; this, however, was not the cafe; for, after having frequently vifited the fifhing-boats, and made many enquiries to know if Governor Phillip was angry, and would flioot him, he ventured: to go to the hofpital, and feemed very defirous of knowing if he might come to the governor's houfe, at the fime time, he named, a man who,, he faid, had ftolen the hatchet, and denied having ever ufed any threats: however, not being fatisfied with the anfwers which were given to him, he went away ; but fome days afterwards he came to the governor's,, who, happening to be in the yard when he came to the gate, ordered, him away. He was feen foon afterwards, and as he appeared very defirous of being received again, and difclaimed. any knowledge of the hatchet, or any intention of revenging the death of the native who had; been fliot, Governor Phillip appeared to believe him, and he was permitted to come into the yard, which was always open to the natives,, and fome bread and fifh were given him but he was no longer permitted tQ; to enter the houfe; this was putting him on a level with the other chap. xx natives, and he appeared to feel his degradation ; but it did not prevent v_—^L^j hfm from repeating his vifits very frequently. By-gone, who has been '791-mentioned as the daring fellow who lived with Bannelong, and was in Februar^ eampany with the man who had been fliot, ventured to come to Rofe-Hill ; and as Governor Phillip wifhed for a friendly intercourfe to be kept up with the natives, he was well received, and no notice was taken of pail offences, fo that he foon became perfectly at his eafe. A fecond flore-houfe of brick was now tiled in, and though the crops in the ground had fuffered from the very dry weather for the laft eight months, it had been favourable for the buildings. The barrack at Rofe-Hill was nearly'ready to receive the men, and one wing of the officers barracks was ready for tiling. The Supply returned from Norfolk Ifland on the 26th of February, with the officers and feamen who had remained there after the lofs of the Sirius; and the Dutch veffel being hired to carry them to England, fhe began to prepare for the voyage. In the night-of the 27th, they had very heavy rain, which was highly acceptable. On the 28th, it blew very frefh, and a fifliing boat, in working up the harbour, filled; fortunately, fhe was an Englifh cutter, and did not fink. A young woman, a little girl, and two children, (all natives) were in the boat when the accident happened: the young woman had the two children on her fhoulders in a moment, and fwam on fhore with them; the girl alfo fwam on fliore, as did fuch of the boat's crew that could fwim. Several of the natives feeing this accident as the boat drove towards the rocks, gave them every poftible 4 affiftance* afliftance, without which, in all probability, one of the crew would have been drowned.-After clearing the boat, they collected the oars and fuch articles as had been driven on more in different places ; and in thefe friendly offices, Bannelong was very affiduous: this behaviour gave Governor Phillip an opportunity of receiving him in a more kindly manner than he had done fince his bad behaviour. Though our colonifts had never been able to learn the reafon for the females lofing two joints of the little finger, they now had an opportunity of feeing in what manner that operation is performed. Colebe's wife brought her child to Governor Phillip's houfe a few days after it was born, and as it was a female, both the father and mother had been repeatedly told, that if the finger was to be cut off, the governor wifhed to fee the operation. The child was now two months old, and a ligature was applied round the little finger at the fecond joint; but two or three days afterwards, when fhe brought the child again, the ligature was cither broke, or had been taken off: this being mentioned to the mother, fhe took feveral hairs from the head of an officer who was prefent, and bound them very tight round the child's finger. After fome time, a gangrene took place; and though the child appeared un-eafy when the finger was touched, it did not cry, nor was any attention paid to it after the ligature was applied. It has already been obferved, that this operation always took place on the left hand of the females -y but this child was an exception, for it was the little finger on the right hand on which the ligature was applied : this bandage was continued until the finger was ready to drop off, when its parents carried it to the furgeon, who, at their requeft, feparated it with a knife.—Making love in this country is always prefaced by a beating, which the female feems to receive as a matter of courfe. The native girl, who fliil re- g iided fided occasionally at the clergyman's, had been abfent two days, when chap. XX ihe returned with a bad wound on the head, and fome fevere bruifes <-—v-l^ on her moulder; the girl whofe life Governor Phillip had faved, re- ,1791* 1-11 a February. turned with her; flie aho had a wound on her head, and one of her arms was much bruifed by a blow with a club : the ftory they told was, that two men who frequently vifited the fettlement, wanted to fleep with them, and on their refuting, had, as ufual on fuch occafions, beat them mod unmercifully. Bannelong, after an abfence of feveral days, returned to the fettlement ; and the fervices he had rendered the boat's crew when they were in danger of being loft, being confidered as an atonement for his paft offences, he was admitted into Governor Phillip's houfe; in confequence of this reconciliation, the number of visitors greatly increafed, the go-. yernor's yard being their head quarters* CHAPTER CHAPTER XXL An excurfon into the country.—Occurrences on the journey.—Surpriftng dexterity of the natives in climbitig trees.-—Their fuperfition.—Their method of curing wounds^—Their language.—Their manners and dif pofition.. ON the lith of April, 1791, Governor Phillip left Rofe-Hill with a party, intending to reach Hawkeihury-River, oppofite Richmond-Hill and, if poflible, to crofs the river and get to the mountains. Befides the governor, the party confifted of a fervant, and three convicts, who were good markfmen, eight foldiers, two ferjeants, one captain, Lieutenant Tench, and Lieutenant Dawes; they took feven days provifions with them. As a few hours heavy rain would raife the waters at the head of the Hawkefbury, .and render their return very difficult, if not impracticable, the party were made fo confiderable, that they might divide if it was poflible to crofs the river, which the governor meant to do with only half a dozen perfons; leaving the remainder to prepare a raft of light wood, if any could be found, or to affift their return, with lines carried for that purpofe. It was near eleven o'clock when the party fet off, and, after croffing Rofe-Hill creek, they went to the northward, as Governor Phillip wifhed to fee if, after fo long a drought, there was any water in a ravine near to which he intended to place a fettler, the ground being good, lying well for cultivation, and having having plenty of water where the farm-houfe was intended to be fixed. This track of good ground runs to the eaftward, and was feparated from the cultivated land on the north fide of Rofe-Hill creek by a fmall patch of brufti-wood, and a narrow flip of poor fandy foil. Water being found in the bottom of the ravines, our party fliapcd their courfe fo_as to crofs a part of the country, with which they were unacquainted, going north-weft by the compafs, and counting their paces. Colebe, and Ballederry, the young man who has been mentioned as living chiefly at Governor Phillip's houfe, were defirous of joining this party; and, as much information was expected from them, they were encouraged to go, and they carried their own provifions. After pafling feveral deep ravines, and going round the heads of others, over a barren country for an hour, the land grew better, and was tolerable, till one o'clock, when it again grew bad and rocky. The natives informed them that this part of the country was inhabited by the Bidjigah, but that moft of the tribe were dead of the fmall-pox. Though the country they palfed over in their morning's walk was chiefly poor ftony ground, it was covered with timber, and was pleafing to the eye. At half paft one o'clock, the party came to a low piece of ground where they found water, and which, in any future excurfion, would be a good lleeping place. The country continued a dry, arid foil, and the furface was moftly covered with loofe ftones, till forty minutes paft three o'clock, when they came to fome pools of good water, which were very acceptable, as one of the party was taken ill. Here they made fires and laid down for the night. In the courfe of the day, they had feen numbers of Pattagorong, and Baggaray; in one herd, it was fuppofed there could not be lefs than forty. Soon Soon after the fires were lighted, the voice of a native was heard in the woods, hunting his dog; and, as Colebe and Ballederry were very defirous of having- an interview with him, though they faid the tribe of Bu-ru-be-ron-galt who were bad. men. and their enemies, refided near the fpot, they frequently hallooed, and were anfwered by the ftranger; and, as the voice drew nearer, they defired our party would all lie down and keep filence. a light was now feen in the woods, and our natives advancing towards it, a pretty long converfation cnfued between them and the ftranger, who approached them with great precaution : a little boy who was with him carried the fire, which was a piece of the bark of the tea-tree. This boy being fent forward firft, joined Colebe and Ballederry, who, having told the ftranger their names, the tribe to which they belonged, and received the like information from him, they joined, and the ftranger was now told the names of the party who remained at the fire; at the fame time, fome of them were defired to fpeak.- At Governor Phillip's approach, the boy ran away, and the man did not appear perfectly at his eafe when he faw four or five perfons near him, though none of them were armed. They were all introduced to the ftranger by name, and he was prefTed to come to their fire, which was forty or fifty yards diftant; but this he declined, faying he would go and fetch his family, and would return in the morning. Colebe and Ballederry told this man that their party were going to the river, wh ich he pointed out as lying in the direction they had taken. When thefe natives firft endeavoured to make themfelves heard by the ftranger, they had advanced fome little diftance from the reft, but as he approached them they retreated, and wanted the ferjeant, in whom they always placed great confidence, to take his gun, and go with them, which was not permitted : this fhewed that they, as well as the other native, thought there was fome danger in the meeting j and the caution with which PORT J A C K S O N. 5r which the ftranger approached them was very great j by fending the boy cha p. xxr before him with the fire, he could fee if thofe he was going to join v-~-v~^j were armed or not, whilft the trees kept him from their view. This *79r■ man had a ftone hatchet, a fpear, and a throwing-ftick, which one of AlnU-our natives was very defirous of his leaving; probably as a pledge for his returning in the morning, but this he refufed : he was a young man, of the tribe of Bu-ru-be-ron-gal, and named Bur-ro-wai; his hair was ornamented with the tails of feveral fmall animals, and he had preferved all his teeth. On Colebe being afked how this man lived, he faid that he had no canoe, but lived by the chace. The next morning, (the 12th of April,) our party fet off at half paft fix o'clock, keeping their courfe north-weft, through a poor country, though covered with timber, till three quarters paft eight, when they faw the river, which, in this fituation, is about 300 feet wide : the banks are high, and the foil a light fand, but producing fine ftrait timber : this fand, which in fome places does not appear to have any mixture of mould, extends feveral hundred yards from the river. The party were now eighteen miles and an half from Rofe-Hill, which bore from them north 28 weft. The current in the river was running down, and they fet off at half paft ten o'clock, to follow its windings, as it ran to the eaftward. The perfon who was charged with counting his paces, and fetting the objects to which they directed their march, had hitherto-gone firft; but the long fedge, the dead branches which had fiillcn from the trees, the nettles, and a weed refembling ivy which entangled the feet, made walking on, or near the banks of the river very fatiguing; he was therefore directed to follow the party, and to take the bearings of thofe who went before him from time to time, ftill counting his paces, that they might always know their fituation in the woods, and the direction it would be neceffary to take when they returned acrofs the country. They proceeded in an 3 U 2 Indian CHAP. Indian file, the perfon who went firft, always falling into the rear wheft* XXL «_ • ever he found himfelf fatigued. 1791. Apn1, Several good fituations were feen on the oppofite fide of the river as our_ party went along, and the ground appeared to be good: they alfo pafled fome good fpots on their fide of the river, and faw feveral places where the natives had llept on its banks. Ducks were feen in great numbers, but the party feldom got a fhot.-In the afternoon, a creek obliged them to leave the banks of the river, and go round its head, as it was too deep-to crofs : having rounded the head of this creek, they found themfelves on the borders of a river not more than eighty feet wide; the banks were low, and covered with a thick brufh, which did not make walking lefs laborious to thofe who went firft. Their view was now very contracted, the ground riling on the right fo as to confine the profpect to fifty or one hundred yards; and what they could fee was moftly a poor ftony foil. In the afternoon, they fell in with one of the native's hunting-huts, which Colebe and Ballederry would have cut to pieces, had not Governor Phillip prevented them; they faid it belonged to their enemies, and. they were much difpleafed at not being permitted to deftroy it. The natives were known to eat a grub which is found in the fmall' gum-tree, and when our party came to the creek already mentioned, a native fled on their approach, leaving his fire, and fome decayed wood^ he had drawn out of the creek, for the purpofe of, procuring a large worm which is found in it, and which they eat* The fmell of this wood is fo flrong, that few Europeans are able to bear it for any length of time; indeed, it cannot be diftinguifhed from the fouleit privy. At four o'clock the party halted and made fires for the night, being all pretty, well, tired. Juft before they flopped for the night, feveral natives were heard, Heard, and Colebe and Ballederry wanted to join them, but they went away in their canoes. In the morning of the 13th, the party fet off again, ftill following the creek, which was now little larger than a good ditch, and went through a very, barren rocky country, until noon, when, being at the head of the creek they crofted it, and, after refting fome time, they endeavoured to go to the north-weft, in order to fall in with the river which they had loft by going round the creek in the afternoon of the preceding day j but they were foon flopped by a deep ravine 5 and the furgeon going to a rifing ground on the left, faw the country open to the weftward, and thought he could diftinguifli Richmond-Hill; this led them all to the fpot, and, from the break in the mountain, and the trending of the land, Governor Phillip'imagined it to be Richmond-Hill, which they faw, being the fouthern extremity of a range of hills. It bore weft by fouth, and appeared to be from eleven to thirteen miles diftant,. as near, as could be. determined. The place from whence our party had this profpetf:, was called Tench's Profpecl-Hilly that officer being of the party, and having from thence feen Richmond-Hill for the firft time.-The fpot where they had made the river on the 12th, being little more than four miles diftant, it was thought beft to return there, and from thence to trace the river to the weftward till they got oppofite to Richmond-Hill. The Governor was well aware of the difficulties they would have to encounter, on the banks of a river where walking was laborious, and every little creek they met with would oblige them to follow it up the country till they could crofs it; but in a country like this, you may travel many, miles through the woods and not get fight of very high land, .though, it may not be half a mile from you. Our CHAP. Our party fet off, in order to get back to fleep near the head of the xxi. 1—v—j creek, which they had croffed at noon, and which they foon attained: it 1791. was flood-tide when they got there, and they found the tide to rife about apnl- eighteen inches, making high water at nine o'clock : this was on the night of the 13th. After crofting the creek at half paft feven o'clock the next morning, they fhaped a courfe that was likely to carry them to the river, without being embarraffed with the bad walking on its banks, or the windings of the creek, until they got near the fpot, from whence they propofed taking a frefli departure. After crofting the creek, and fome very rocky ground, they had good walking over a country, full of timber and pleafing to the eye ; but the ground was poor, and the furface moftly covered with flones. Here fome ants nefts were feen, compofed of an amazing number of fmall flones, which formed a circle of five or fix feet diameter, riling regularly in the center to the height of twenty or thirty inches. An hour and a half s walking brought,them to a fwamp, where they flopped to fire at fome ducks, and then crofting it, they continued their courfe nearly weft 8" north till eleven o'clock, when they came to a pool of good water.—-—The country was now fandy, and prefently afterwards, they arrived on the borders of the river, and foon got to the place where they flrfl flopped in the morning of the 12th. Several canoes being feen, our two natives were very defirous of fpeaking to the perfons in them, and the party were ail defired to hide themfelves in the grafs until the canoes fliould come abreafl of them ; Colebe and Ballederry alfo concealed themfelves, but the canoes flopping on the oppofite fhore before they came near, one of our natives was told to call to them, which he did, and was foon anfwered by an old man, who, after a fliort ,Converfation, came over in his canoe, being known to Colebe.-- 6 This This man joined the party without the lead fear; and from the queftions that were put to him refpecting the river, Colebe and Ballederry concluded they had come this journey in order to procure flone hatchets, as the natives get the flones whereof they make their hatchets from that part of the river near Richmond-Hill, which the old man faid was a great way off, and the road to it was very bad. Colebe and Ballederry had at firft fuppofed, that Governor Phillip and his party came from the fettlement to kill ducks and patagorongs; but finding they did not flop at the places where thofe animals were feen in any numbers, they were at a lofs to know why the journey was taken ■ and though they had hitherto behaved exceedingly well, yet, as they now began to be tired of a journey, which yielded them no fort of advantage, they endeavoured to perfuade the governor to return, faying, it was a great way to the place where the flone hatchets were to be procured, and that they muft come in a boat, . On the party leaving this place, the old native returned to his canoe, but he joined them foon afterwards, and gave Governor Phillip two flone hatchets, two fpears, and a throwing-flick: this prefent was made in confequence of our two natives telling him who all the party were. In return for the old man's prefent, he had fome bread, fome fifh-hooks, and a couple of final! hatchets given him. The fpears were well made; one of them had a fmgle barb of wood fixed on with gum, the other had two large, barbs cut out of the folid wood, and it was as finely brought to a point as if it had been made with the fharpeft in-flrument. The throwing-flick had a piece of hard flone fixed in gum inftead of the fhell which is commonly ufed by the natives who live on the fea coaft : it is with thefe flones, which they bring to a very fharp edge, CHAP, edge, that the natives make their fpears. The old native followed oiu XXI. A-—«—J party in his canoe as they kept along the banks of the river, and another ,I791* canoe, with a woman and child, joined him: the old man obferving April. ... that they did not keep near enough the water's edge to have the leaft fatigue in walking, came out of his canoe and took the lead, and he foon brought them to a path made by the natives, where it was very good walking, and which ran alongfide the river. It was near four o'clock when they ftopped for the night, and were joined by a young man and a lively little boy, who they foon found intended, as well as the old man, to take up their refidence with them, though their families were on the oppofite bank, and they had two fires lighted. Though our natives appeared to be on very friendly terms with their •new acquaintances, yet they certainly had no particular affection for ihem, and fpoke of them very lightly when they were out of hearing; particularly Ballederry, who faid the youngeft man of the two was bad: •his name was Tal-lah-mien-di; they fuppofed him to be the old man's fon, and the child to be his grandfon. The old man called himfelf •Gc-me-bee-re, and faid the child's name was Jim-bah; they were of the tribe of Bu-ru-be-rong-aL Colebe and Ballederry, in defcribing that tribe on the fecond day's journey, had called them climbers of trees, and men who lived by hunting; certainly, no perfons can better deferve the appellation of climbers, if we may judge from what was feen of Go-me-bee-re, who, for a bifcuit, in a very few minutes cut his notches in the bark of a tree and mounted it with furprifing agility, though an old man. Thefe notches are cut in the bark little more than an inch deep, which receives the ball of the great toe ; the firft and fecond notches are cut from the ground; ground; the reft they cut as they afcend, and at fuch a diflance from chap. xxi each other, that when both their feet are in the notches, the right foot ^_ s '_f is raifed nearly as high as the middle of the left thigh : when they are '79'-going to raife themfelves a flep, their hatchet is held in the mouth, in order to have the ufe of both their hands; and, when cutting the notch, the weight of the body refts on the ball of the great toe: the fingers of the left hand are alfo fixed in a notch cut on the fide of the tree for that purpofe, if it is too large to admit their clafping it fuf- ficiently with the left arm to keep the body clofe to the tree.-In this manner do thefe people climb trees, whofe circumference is ten or . fifteen feet, or upwards, after an opofTum or a fquirrel, though they rife to the height of Sixty or eighty feet before there is a Single branch. Governor Phillip had occafionally feen a few of the natives climb the trees at Sydney and Rofe-Hill, but this old man greatly furpaffed them. In the evening, the four natives and the child took their places at the tire, and a fcene enfued which Shews that thefe people are not a little Superstitious. Colebe had been wounded below the left breaft with a fiz-gig, and though it muft have been done many years back, or the wound muft have been flight, as it was difficult to difcover any fear, yet it was fuppofed he felt fome pain, though it probably might be occafioned by the Straps of his knapfack j however, the youngelt of the two ftrangers was applied to for relief.--He began the ceremony by taking a mouthful of water, which he fquirted on the part affected, and then applying his mouth, he began to fuck as long as he could without taking breath ; this feemed to make him fick, and when he rofe up, (for his patient was fitting on the ground) he walked about for a few minutes, 3 X and and then began to fuck again, till it was again neceflary for him to take breath : this was repeated three times, and he feemed, by drawing in his ftomach, to feel the pain he had drawn from the breaft of his patient; and having picked up a bit of ftick or itonc, which he did with fo little caution that feveral of the party faw him, he pretended to take fomething out of his mouth and throw it into the river.-He certainly did throw fomething away, which muft be what he picked up; but Colebe, after the ceremony was over, faid it was what he had fucked from his breaft, which fome underitood to be two barbs of a fiz-gig, as he made ufe of the word Rul-ler-doo-ulbut Governor Phillip was of opinion he meant two pains. Before this bufinefs was finifhed, the doctor felt his patient's back below the fhoulder, and feemed to apply his fingers as if he twitched fomething out j after which, he fat dewn by the patient, and put his right arm round his back ; the old man, at the fame time, fat down on the other fide the patient, with his face the contrary way, and clafped him round the breaft with his right arm ; each of them had hold of one of the patient's hands, in which fituation they remained a few minutes; thus ended the ceremony, and Colebe faid he was well. He gave his worlted night cap and the beft part of his fupper to the doctor as a fee; and being afked, if bcth the men were doctors, he faid, yes, and the child was a doctor alfo, fo that it may be prefumed the power of healing wounds defcends from father to fon. This affair being finifhed, moft of the party fell afleep, whilft the two doctors were amufed by Colebe and Ballederry, with an account of the buildings at Sydney and Rofe-Hill, and in what manner the colonifts lived: in this hiftory, names were as particularly attended to as if their hearers had been intimately acquainted with every perfon who was n mentioned. mentioned. Though the tribe of Buruberongal, to which thefe men chap. XXI belonged, live chiefly by hunting, the women are employed in fifliing, <—-v-^-r and our party were told, that they caught large mullet in the river. I79'* Neither of thefe men had loft their front tooth, and the names they ^ gave to feveral parts of the body were fuch as the natives about Sydney had never been heard to make ufe of. Ga-dia (the penis), they called Cud-da-, Go-rey (the ear), they called Bcn-ne; in the word mi (the eye), they pronounced the letter / as an E; and in many other inftances their pronunciation varied, fo that there is good reafon to believe feveral different languages are fpoken by the natives of this country, and this accounts for only one or two of thofe words given in Captain Cook's vocabulary having ever been heard amongft the natives who vifited the fettlement. Having taken leave of their new friends the Car-ra-dy-gans (doctors), our party fet off at a quarter paft feven o'clock in the morning of the 15 th of April, and followed the natives path along the banks of the river, walking at a good pace till a quarter paft eight o'clock, when they came to a creek which was too wide to be croffed by cutting down a tree, and was too deep to be forded ; they were, therefore, obliged to follow its windings till they fuppofed themfelves at the head of it, and then they endeavoured to regain the banks of the river ; but they pre-fently found that they had only rounded a fmall arm of this creek, the principal branch of which they continued to trace with infinite fatigue for the remainder of the day. It was high water in this creek at forty minutes paft twelve o'clock, and at half paft three, they found it divide into two branches, cither of which might have been croffed on a tree; but by this time the party 3X2 . were CHAP, were tired, and threatened with heavy rain, which would make their XXI. ^—v--1 night very uncomfortable, as they had no tent; they therefore took up i"9r* their refidence at a fpot where a quantity of timber, from trees, which had already been burnt down by the natives, promifed them good fires with little labour. The rain went off after a few light mowers, but our two natives now began to grow quite impatient to return home. Colebe talked about his wife, and faid his child would cry j and Ballederry loll all patience when the rain began, telling the governor, that there were good houfes at Sydney and Rofe-Hill, but that they had no houfe now, no huh, no melon (of which fruit all the natives are very fond) ; and there is no doubt but they would have left the party, had they been acquainted with the country through which they had to return. It was moft likely that the greateft part of the next day wrould be fpent in getting to that part of the river which the creek had obliged them to quit, fo that two days would be taken up in getting to the oppofite fide of a creek, not one hundred feet wide; it was, therefore, determined to return to Rofe-Hill, which bore from the fteeping place fouth-eaft, fixteen miles diftant. The river which Governor Phillip had named the Nepean in a former excurfion, was then traced for fome miles, and he expected to have fallen in with it this journey, and to have traced it down to where it empties itielf into the Hawkcfbury, which it is fuppofed to do above Richmond-Hill: indeed, during the firft: day of this excurfion, he fuppofed it poflible that the river they were then" tracing might be the Nepean, but what they faw of it afterwards, left no doubt but that they had fallen in with the'Hawkcfbury fome miles below Richmond-Hill. In In the morning of the 16th of April, at half paft feven o'clock, chap. xxi Governor Phillip and his party fet off on their return to Rofe-Hill; and, v^-^^ as foon as they were clear of the creek, they went fouth 40° eaft, 1791. which, they fuppofed, would carry them into the path leading from A?rU~ Rofe-Hill to Profpect-Hill.--The face of the country where they ftept, and for feveral miles in their road, was a poor foil, but finely formed, and covered with the ftately white gum-tree. At noon, they came to a hollow, in wdiich they found fome very good water y here they ftopped near an hour : after pafling this gully, and a rocky piece of ground, the foil grew better, and they foon came to a brook of good water, which they had occafion to crofs twice 3 the foil was good, and covered with long grafs: they were now drawing near to Rofe-Hill, where they arrived a little before four o'clock. The dry weather ftill continued, and though they had a few fhowers, the quantity of rain which fell in the month of April, was not fufficient to bring the dry ground into proper order for fowing the grain ; a few acres, however, of what was in the beft condition, were fown with wheat the laft week in the month. This long continuance of dry weather, not only hurt their crops of corn very much, but the gardens likewife fuffered greatly; many being fown a fecond and a third time, as the feed never vegetated, from the want of moifture in the foil; this was a double misfortune, for vegetables were not only growing fcarce, but feed alfo. The expected fupply of provifions not arriving, Governor Phillip was obliged to reduce the ratio of daily fubfiftence \ but this reduction did not extend to the women and children. Alter. After faying that there were many of the convicts, who, if not attended to, ate their week's allowance of provifions in two or three days; it will be obvious that the labour hitherto drawn from that clafs of people, mull: be greatly leffened by the ncceflity the Governor was under of reducing even that allowance ; indeed, it was felt by every individual, for the daily ratio of provifions iffued from the public flores, was the fame to the convict as it was to the governor. Two feamen, who had belonged to the Sirius, became fettlers, and were fixed on the creek leading to Rofe-Hill, where they had fixty acres of ground each allotted them, and they were to be victualled from the public ltore for eighteen months. A perfon who was fent from England to fuperintend the labour of the convicts, alfo became a fettler, and one hundred and forty acres of land were allotted him on the creek: he was allowed the labour of four convicts for a year, and himfelf and his daughter were to be victualled from the public ltore for twelve months.--Several convicts, whofe terms for which they were fentenced were expired, were permitted to cultivate ground at the foot of Profpect-Hill, and to thofe who became fettlers, Governor Phillip gave what live flock he could fpare, as there was not any belonging to the public in the fettlement; nor were individuals pofleffed of any confiderable quantity of live ftock, the greateft part having been killed the laft year, when they were diftreffed for want of provifions ; and thofe who were able to cultivate a little maize, were glad to make ufe of it as a fubiti-tute for bread. Little more than twelve months back, hogs and poultry were in great abundance, and were increafing very rapidly hut, at this time, a hen that laid eggs fold for twenty millings, pork fold for a fhilling per pound, but but there was feldom any to fell; a roafting-pig fold for ten millings, and good tobacco for twenty /hillings per pound: tobacco, the growth of this country, which, if properly cured, would probably equal the beft Brazil tobacco, fold in its green ftate, for ten millings per pound: fuch was the ftate of the colony at this time. All the maize was now got in, and, notwithstanding the extraordinary-drought for fome time before, and long after it was put into the ground, the crop was not a bad one, and the cobs were remarkably large where the ground had been well prepared. In the beginning of May, the officers and men of the New South- May. Wales corps went into the new barrack at Rofe-Hill. The barrack for the foldiers had been finifhed fome time, but one of the wings, which was intended for the officers, could not be compleated before the end of the month. Thofe natives who had been moft accuftomed to live at the fettlement, would now leave it frequently for feveral days together, as they found plenty of fifh towards the head of the harbour. The lavage ferocity of thefe people fhews itfelf whenever they find themfelves thwarted. Eannelong and Colebe with their wives, dined at the governor's on the 8th of May, and came in as ufual, to have a glafs of wine and a difh of coffee ; after which they left the houfe to go and fleep at Bannelong's hut on the point ; but, in the middle of the night, Governor Phillip was called up by the cries of the young girl whom he had formerly refcued from Bannelong: flie, it feems, had gone to fleep in a fhed at the back of the governor's houfe, and Bannelong, Colebe, and two others got over the paling, and were endeavouring to carry her off, which the centinels prevented; and, as Governor Phillip CHAP. XXI. CHAP. Phillip did not know at the moment, but that Bannelong and thofe who xxi "» y _ . ' ■ were with him, had returned to fleep in the yard after he went to bed, '701- and before the gate was locked, they were permitted to efcape 5 which, Ma>' ' indeed, could only have been prevented by ordering them to be put to death. One of thefe men was feen the next day, and, being taxed with attempting to carry off the girl, he denied the charge: as the natives always do when they are not caught in the fact. Bannelong and Colebe were not feen for a week, and the latter appearing firft, when accufed, faid he was afleep at the time, and laid the blame on Bannelong, who coming foon after, and not being able to make any excufe, or to deny being in the yard, appeared fullen ; and when Governor Phillip told him that he was angry, and that the foldiers fhould flioot him if he ever came again to take any woman away, he very cooly replied, that then he would fpear the foldier j at the fame time, he faid he was very hungry; and, as no advantage would have followed punifhing him, he was ordered fomething to eatj after the threat had been repeated of his being fliot, if ever he came again in the night. It was probable, that the difpleafure of Governor Phillip with Bannelong would have a better effect: than any corporal punifhment, which might only lead him to revenge himfelf on fome of thofe who frequently went into the woods unarmed ; at the fame time, orders were given for the centinels to fire on any of the natives who might be feen getting over the paling in the night, and the fleeping of the women in the yard when their hufbands were not with them was difcouraged, The The girl was afked if the natives were going to take her away in order chap. xxi to beat her,—flie faid no, it was to force her to fleep with them; at the i- fame time thefe men had left their own wives at their fires. I79>- May. The Supply had now fo far exceeded the time in which fhe generally made the voyage to and from Norfolk-Ifland, that fears were entertained for her fafety, but they were removed by her arrival on the 30th of May. As fhe was the only veffel in this country, it was not without great concern that Governor Phillip found the neceffary repairs flie wanted would require more time than he could have wifhed her to remain in the harbour. 3Y CHAPTER CHAPTER XXII. A fecond excurfon into the country.—The frf grants of land to fettlers.—' A barter with the natives eflablifoed.—The arrival of feveral ve/JeIs front England.—A new harbour difcovered.'.—The names of the frf fettlers. CHAP. ' I AHE weather continuing dry, two officers (Tench and Dawes,) v^^Li «*■ who were with Governor Phillip on his laft excurfion, and two 1791- foldiers, fet off in the beginning of June, 1791, to trace the Hawkelbury, J80* from the place where the former party were turned off by the creek: they got oppofite Richmond-Hill on the 5th day after their departure, and were aflifted in crofting the river by a native, who lent his canoe to one of the foldiers that could not fwim, but they afterwards found the river fo very Shallow near the fall, that the water did not reach above the ancles. It has already been obferved, that when the floods come down from the mountains, the flat country near the head of the Hawkefbury is, in many places, under water, and the river, in that part, rifes to a great height.-It now appeared that the Nepean does, as was fuppofed, empty itfelf into the Hawkefbury ; and, in Governor Phillip's opinion, the fall and the fudden contraction of that noble river are very fufficient reafons for confining its name from where it empties itfelf into Broken-Bay up to the fall; and for continuing the name given to the river (Nepean) which was difcovered in going weftward from Profpea-Hili. 6 The The buildings at Rofe-Hill being carried on fo far as to form hereafter chap. a regular town between Rofe-Hill and the landing-place in the creek, ^-~v~^. Governor Phillip named it Parramatta ; the name given by the natives ^u to the fpot on which the town was building. Grants of land were now ^unc* given to thofe who became fettlers; and thofe who had been permitted to clear ground in their leifure hours, and on one day of the week which was allowed them for that purpofe, went on very well. The grants which had already been made, were, to James Rufe, thirty acres, which is called in the grant Experiment Farm: to Philip Schaffer, who came from England as a fuperintendant, one hundred and forty acres; called in the grant, the Vineyard: to Robert Webb and William Reid, who were feamen, lately belonging to the Sirius, fixty acres each, and which were called in the grants, Webb and Reid's Farms. On the 4th of June, the anniverfary of his Majefty's birth-day was celebrated, and, on this occafion, an addition was made to the daily ratio of provifions; a pound of pork and a pound of rice were given to each man, half that quantity to every woman, and a quarter of a pound of pork, with half a pound of rice to every child. Some refrefhing fhowers of rain had lately fallen, but not fufficient to bring up the wheat that was fown in April and the beginning of May; however, fome came up well where the ground, lying low, had a little moisture in it. The Supply's main-matt being got out was found very rotten, and that veflel wanted repairs which they found difficult to give her. 3 Y 2 A foldier r c H A P. A foldier of the New South Wales corps, going from Parramatta with XXII fome of his comrades for the purpofe of procuring fweet tea, left them j791- to go after a pattegorong, and loff himfelf in the woods: after roving June, about for fome time, he faw a number of the natives, who fled on feeing his gun, except one that had frequently vifited the fettlement, and was known by the name of Botany-Bay Colebe* This man joined the foldier, and was followed by one of his companions; the foldier, to gain their good-will, and in hopes of inducing them to ihew him the way to Parramatta, offered them fome of his cloaths, which were not accepted; he made them underftand where he wanted to go, but they were on the point of leaving him till he offered his gun, which the native, who was known at the fettlement, took, and then conducted him to Sydney; making him underftand that Parramatta was a great way off. When they drew near to Sydney, Colebe returned the foldier his gun, and, bidding him tell Beanab, '(the governor) that he was Botany-Bay Colebe, he left him, without even taking what the foldier had firft offered him as a prefent. As the natives frequently caught more fifh than was neceflary for their own immediate ufe, and fuch of them as had lived amongft the colonifts, were very fond of bread, rice, and vegetables; fome pains had been taken to make them carry the furplus of what fifh they caught near the head of the harbour, to Parramatta, and exchange it for bread, Sec. . Several of them had carried on this traffic lately, and Governor Phillip had reafon to hope that a pretty good fifh-market would be eftablifhed the enfuing fummer.--Amongft thofe who thus bartered their fifh, was a young man that had lived fome months with the governor, but had left him from time to time in order to go a fifliing: his canoe was a new » new one, and the firft he had ever been mafter of, fo that it may be chap. XXII fuppofed he fet no fmall value on it. ' '-j Strict orders had been given, that the natives* canoes fhould never be touched, and the intereft which both the foldiers and the convict had in inducing them to bring their fifh, which they exchanged for a very fmall quantity of bread or rice, would, it might have been fuppofed, have fecured them from infult; but this barter had not been carried on many days, when the young man juft mentioned, came to Governor Phillip's hut at Parramatta in a violent rage, faid the white men had broke his canoe, and he would kill them : he had his throwing-ftick and feveral fpears, and his hair, face, arms, and breaft were painted red, which is a fign of great anger : it was with fome difficulty that he was made to 'promife not to kill a white man j which he at length did, on the governor's telling him, that he would kill thofe who deftroyed his canoe. A fhort time afterwards, the villains were difcovered and punifhed : they were convicts, and the young native faw the punifhment inflicted, yet it was thought neceffary to tell him that one of the offenders had been hanged, with which he appeared to be fatisfied ; but, whilft thefe men were under examination, his behaviour fliewed, that he thought it belonged to him to punifh the injury he had received; and three weeks after the lofs of his canoe, when every one thought he was fufficiently repaid for his misfortune by feveral little articles, which Governor Phillip had given him, by his feeing the aggreffor punifhed, and by his fuppofing one of them had been put to death, he took his revenge ; which confirmed the general opinion, that thefe people do not readily forgive an injury until they have punifhed the aggreffor. A convict, who ftrayed fome diftance from the fettlement, was met by two young native men, a woman, and two children, who pafled by him, but immediately June. CHAP, mediately afterwards he was wounded in the back with a fpear; feveral XXII. fpears were thrown at him, and he received a fecond wound in the fide.; 1791. however, he got away; and as it did not appear that the natives fol-Jone. lowed him to get his cloaths, or attempted to take any tiling from him, there was no doubt but the canoe being deftroyed was the caufe of this attack; efpecially as the fame evening, when Governor Phillip was returning from Parramatta to Sydney, he faw fome natives affembled round a fire, and afking them who it was that wounded the white man, he was immediately anfwered, Ba/kdeny; (the owner of the canoe which had been deftroyed) he was alfo told the name of the young man who was with him, and of the women and children : indeed, it is not a little extraordinary, that thefe people always tell the names of thofe who have thrown a fpear, or who have flole any thing, if the queflion is afked them, though they know that you intend to punifli the offenders ; and it cannot be from a principle of ftrictly adhering to truth; for, fliould one of them be charged with doing any thing wrong, he is fure to deny it, and to lay the blame on another who is not prefent; and it is not only furprifing that they fliould always tell the name of the offender, but that they do it openly; nay, often in the hearing of women and children. The deft ruction of this canoe was very unfortunate, as it was likely to prevent the natives carrying up their fifh to barter; and no canoe was feen in the creek for fome time afterwards. Ballederry, the owner of the canoe, was one whom Governor Phillip had hopes of attaching to himfelf, and intended bringing him to England. Hawks and crows were now frequently feen in great numbers, though, at times, feveral months would pafs without one of either fpecies being feen. At Parramatta, after the wheat was fown, the crows P OR T J A C KSON, S3,5 crows were very troublefome, and though frequently fired at, they did CHAP, great damage. On the 21 ft of June, they had rain, which continued till the morning of the 24th, and, at times, was very violent; indeed, '79>. more rain fell in three days than had done in many months paft, fo that M"* the low grounds were thoroughly foaked., On the 9th of July, our colonifts had the pleafure of feeing the fignal made for a fail, and the next day, the Mary Ann tranfport anchored in the cove, having on board one hundred and forty-one women, and fix children, all very healthy, fome few excepted, who had diforders which were contracted in England, and only three perfons died on the paffage. This veffel had pafled through the Downs on the 25th of the preceding February, and flopped eight days at St. Jago. By this fhip our colonifts received fome ftores, and nine months provilions for the women who came in her : they had alfo the fatisfaction of hearing that the Gorgon, whofe arrival had been expected for twelve months back, was fafe, and was to fail for the colony a week after the Mary Ann. Two pounds of rice were now added to the weekly ratio of provifions, the flores not admitting a greater addition ; for though an ample fupply of provifions might reafonably be expected by the middle of the enfuing month, yet their fituation did not admit their trufting to the various accidents, which had hitherto been fo very unfavourable to the colony: however, they were now convinced, that from the plan propofed by government for furnifliing the fettlement with provifions until it could fupport itfelf, there was no reafon to fear in future thofe inconveniences which they had already laboured under. In In the night of the 16th of July, a ferjeant, going the rounds, found the door of the fpirit cellar open, and the centinel in the cellar, drawing off wine : this man, being ordered for trial, offered himfelf as an evidence for the crown, and charged two of his comrades with having frequently robbed the Store, of which there was not the leaft. doubt: however, the only evidence againfl thefe men being that of an accomplice, it was not fufficient to convict them, and he faved his own life by being admitted as an evidence for the crown. He was afterwards tried by a batallion court-martial, (as being a marine, he could not be tried by a general court-martial) and fentenced to receive corporal punifhment, and to be drummed out of the corps. The men he had accufed were the two who had been charged with robbing the ftore at Rofe-Hill, by one of thofe marines who fuffered death for robbing the ftore at Sydney in 1788, at which time, likewife, they efcaped, the only evidence againft them being an accomplice under fentence of death. The rice which they received from Batavia was not of the beft kind, and was very full of dirt and wevil when landed -y and the wevil had now increafed to fuch a degree that a very confiderable quantity of rice was deftroyed: indeed, what remained had Been thought too bad to iffue to the garrifon, had the ftores admited of its being given to the hogs. Five pounds of this rice were eftimated as only equal to two pounds of flour, with refpect to the nourifliment it afforded, and* this estimation was deemed pretty juft. It being the intention of government, that as the time for which the convicts were fentenced, expired, they mould be permitted to become Settlers; thofe who chofe to accept this bounty were received as fuch, 1 and and lands were granted them in the following proportion; viz. Thirty chat. xxji acres to the iingle men, fifty acres to thofe who were married, and ten ^—-v^o acres more for every child. It had been propofed to victual and cloath '79'-them from the public ftore for twelve months, from the time they be- ^ul>* came fettlers ; but to encourage thofe who firft offered themfelves, Governor Phillip promifed to cloath and fupport them for eighteen months from the public ftores: they were to have the neceflary tools and implements of hufbandry, with feeds and grain to fow the ground the firft year; two young fow pigs were alfo to be given to each fettler, which was all the governor's ftock would afford, and it has already been obferved, that they had no live ftock in the fettlement belonging to the crown. On thefe conditions, twenty-feven convicts were admitted fettlers; twelve of them were fixed at the foot of Profpect-Hill, four miles from Parramatta, and fifteen, at fome ponds, an eligible fituation about two miles to the northward of thofe fettlers who were placed on the creek leading to Parramatta. In laying out the different allotments, an intermediate fpace, equal to what was granted the fettler, was retained between every two allotments, for the benefit of the crown ; and as this fet them at fome diftance from each other, and there being a wood between every two fettlers, in which the natives might conceal themfelves, if they were inclined to mifchief, feveral mufquets were diftributed amongfl the fettlers, and they took poffeffion of their allotments on the 18 th of July, and began to erect their huts : however, very few days clapfed before a large body of the natives appeared in the grounds of one of the new fettlers at Profpedt-Hill, who, alarmed at the fight of a number of natives, (by his account more than a hundred) fired off his mufquet and retreated; this, of courfe, encouraged them, and they advanced, and fet fire to 3 Z hi« CHAP, his hnt, which was nearly finifhed.-On hearing the report of a xxa. J . u. ~v— „; mufquet, another fettler took up his arms, and running to the fpot, 179:. fired on the natives, who retired to fome diflance. July. As fcon as this affair was known at Parramatta, a party of foldiers were detached, who, getting fight of about fifty of the natives, obliged them to difpcrfe. This circumftance induced Governor Phillip to deviate from the royal in ft ructions, which pointed out in what manner the allotments of land were to be made ; and as the only means-of enabling the fettlers to defend themfelves againft fimilar accidents, he granted all thofe intermediate lands which had been referved for the ufs of the crown, to the fettlers: by this means, all the land would be cleared of timber, fo that the natives could find no flicker, and, in all probability, there would be little danger from them in future : however, a noncommiflioned officer and three privates were detached to each fettlement, with orders to remain there until the lands were cleared. Ia making this arrangement, no additional ground was given to the fettler, but their allotments were brought more into a fquare, and the ground not occupied at prefent, would be granted to others in future. When thefe fettlers were placed at fuch a diftance from Parramatta, it was on account of the foil being good, and that their live ftock and gardens might not be fo liable to depredations as they would have been if nearer the town- On the ift of Auguft, the Matilda tranfport anchored at Sydney, with cloathing, provifions, and two hundred and five male convicts. She failed from England on the 27th of the preceding March, in company with four others, and parted with them the firft night. Although this fhip had made fo good a paffage, flie buried twenty-four convicts i twenty were fick, and many were in fo emaciated a ftate, that that fcarcely any labour could be expected from them for fome chap. xxii. months. The Matilda had loft three days in endeavouring to get into v—v—^ St. Jago; flie lay nine days at the Cape of Good Hope, and was two r?9'* days at anchor on the Coaft of New South Wales, within an iiland in Auguft' the latitude of 42° 15' fouth, where the mafter found very good anchorage and fhelter for five or fix veffels. This ifland, by the matter's account, lies twelve miles from the main. / Off Cape Dromedary, he faw a fmall ifland, which bore fouth-weft by weft, feven miles from the cape; within which, he was of opinion, two or three fhips would find good fhelter. An enfign and twenty privates, of the corps raifed for the fervice of this country, came out in the Matilda, and a ferjeant died on the paffage. Governor Phillip intended to have fent the Matilda to Norfolk Ifland, with the ftores, provifions, and convicts fhe had brought out, as foon as the fick were landed; but flie being leaky, her cargo was put on board the Mary Ann, with one hundred and thirty-three male, and one female convict; and that veffel failed on the 8th of Auguft. A noncom-miflioned oflicer, and eleven privates of the New South Wales corps, were fent for the fecurity of the fhip, and they were to remain on the ifland. Ballederry, the young native who abfented himfelf after wounding a man, in revenge for fome of the convicts having deftroyed his canoe, had lately made feveral enquiries by'his friends, whether Governor Phillip was ftill angry; and they were always told in anfwer to thofe enquiries, that he was angry, and that Ballederry fliould be killed for wounding a white man ; yet this did not deter him from coming into the cove in a 3 Z 2 canoe, CtlAP. canoe/ and the governor being informed of it, ordered a party of V_____v— „; foldiers to go and fecure him \ but Bannelong, who was prefent at the I791, time, feeing the foldiers go towards the point, gave him the alarm, and he went off. Governor Phillip was in. the garden at the time Bannelong was talking to the young man who was in his- canoe going out of the cove, and gave him to understand, that Ballederry fhould be killed; on which, he immediately called to him, and faid, the governor was Still very angry : Ballederry, on hearing this, went off pretty brifkly to the other fide of the harbour, but, in anfwer to the threats of punifliment,. fpears were mentioned, though he was then at fo great a diftance that the governor could not distinguish whether it wras himfelf or the foldiers which he threatened: certain it is, that thefe people fet little value on their lives, and never fail to repay you in kind, whether you praife or threaten \ and whenever a blow is given them, be it gentle or with* force, they always return it in the fame manner.. The Atlantic tranfport, Lieutenant Bowen, who was one of the agents to the tranfports, arrived on the 20th of Auguft. This fhip failed from Plymouth the 23d of March, in company with the Salamander and the William and Ann, but flie parted with the former veflel on the 5th of July, and with the latter on the. 12th. Thefe veffels had been to Rio de Janeiro, where they anchored the 28th of May, and failed from thence on the 12th of. June, 1791.—The Atlantic's paffage may be reckoned a very good one, particularly from Rio de Janeiro to the South Cape, which was only Sixty-nine days. This veflel brought out a ferjeant and feventeen privates, belonging to the New South Wales corps; alfo-provifions, ftores, and two hundred and. two male convicts. One foldier. was loft in a gale of wind, and eighteen convicts died on the paffage: 4 few few of the convicts were fick when landed, but many of them were very weak, and in a few days, forty were under medical treatment. Lieutenant Bowen had flood into a bay on this coaft, which has been mentioned as promifing a good harbour, and of which he gave the following particulars.—" The latitude where he made his obfervation was " 35r> 12/fouth, the entrance from a mile to a mile and a half wide; ** the fouthernmoft point of which is an ifland, almoft connected with " the main land; the north point is pretty high, and rifes perpen-" dicularly out of the fea. It is the fouthern extremity of a peninfula, " that at firft was taken for a long low ifland: the entrance runs in ,4 weft-north-weft for about a mile, and then turns fuddenly round to 11 the northward, forming a very capacious bafon, three or four miles " wide, and five or fix miles in length. The foundings, as far as they " could be examined, were very regular, with a bottom of flimy fand; •* the depth, for a confiderable extent round the middle of the bay, is from thirteen to fourteen fathoms. The weft fide, and the head of P the bay, is a white fandy beach ; the eaftern fliore is bold and rocky, # There is a fmall ledge or fhoal in the middle of the entrance, bearing '* about fouth from the fecond point on the north fliore, on which there ** was conjectured to be twenty feet water *,." The Salamander arrived on the 21ft ; flie brought out twelve privates belonging to the New South Wales corps, and one hundred and fifty-four male convicts, with ftores and provifions. Moft of the convicts en board this fhip were in a weak emaciated ftate ; and they complained that they had not proper attention paid to them, after parting company * It does not appear that there is any fhoal in the entrance, as it has filMCe been examined by. the Mailer of the Matilda. with i79'. Auguft. ^£rr with the agent. The mafter of the Salamander was ordered to proceed to Norfolk-Ifland, with the convicts, ftores, and provifions he had brought out; but unfortunately it had not been forefeen that it might be expedient to fend fome of thefe Ships to land their cargoes at that place, and it was therefore neceflary to clear this veflel of the greateft part of the ftores, in order that they might be flowed in fuch a manner as to permit the landing of the cargo, where, there being no good anchorage, it muft be done with the fhip under fail, and fubject to blowing weather, where there was a neceflity of keeping her always in proper trim for working. On the 23d of Auguft a number of natives vifited the fettlement, and fix men, with feven or eight and twenty women and children came to Governor Phillip's houfe; amongft whom fome bread was dividing, when he was informed that Ballederry was on the oppofite fide of the cove, with a number of the natives, and that he was armed, as were moft of his companions. Whether his coming in, after what had palfed, proceeded from an opinion that Governor Phillip would not punifh him, or from fuppofing himfelf fafe whilft furrounded by fo many of his countrymen, it was thought neceffary to order him to be feized, as foon as thofe who were then in the yard eating what had been given them fhould be gone; for, as Ballederry could not be taken without their hearing the difpute, it was probable they would fuppofe themfelves in danger, and make ufe of their fpears againft thofe who were treating them with kindnefs ; in which cafe fome of them muft have fuffered ; indeed, this was the more likely to happen, as feveral of thefe men and women were ftrangers, who had now come to Sydney for the firft time. This \ Auguft, This party were going to dance at Botany-Bay, and, having finifhed CHAP. XX1 J. their meal, and received fome fifh -hooks, they f-t off; immediately after i -.' which, a party of foldiers were ordered out to fecure Ballederry; but ,79». before they got fight of him, the boy Nanbarre bad heard what was going forward and left the place: on this, a ferjeant with a party were fent after him ; they came up with feveral natives, who joined them in a friendly manner, and, whilft. they were talking to the ferjeant, one of them attempted to wreit a firelock from a foldier, and immediately afterwards a fpear was thrown, fuppofed to be by Ballederry. Two mufquets were then fired, by which a native was wounded in the leg; but unfortunately it was neither the man who attempted to take the mufquet, nor the perfon who threw the fpear,--Soon afterwards, the natives were faid to be affembled near the brick-fields ; an officer was therefore ordered out with a ftrong party to difperfe them, and to make a fevere example of them, if any fpears were thrown; but they never faw a native, fur the boy Nanbarre, true to his countrymen, on feeing the foldiers form on the parade, ran into the woods, and Stripping himfelf, that he might not be known, joined the natives, and put them on their guard; after which, he returned, and feeing the governor go paft with fome officers, whilst he was hid in a bufli, he afterwards fliewed himfeif to an officer's fervant, and afked where the governor and the foldiers were go^ng, and being told, he laughed, and faid they were too late* ibr the natives were all gone. Bannelong came in foon afterwards with his wife, and though he was told that the foldiers were gone out to punifh Ballederry for wounding a white man, yet this intelligence did not prevent him from eating a hearty dinner ; and when he was going away, he left a large bundle of fpears, fiz-gigs, and various other articles under Governor Phillip's care. It It might be fuppofed that the natives, after being fired at, and oik of them being wounded, would not have trutted themfelves again at the fettlement for fome time: this, however, was not the .cafe: they very well underftood that nothing more was intended than to punifh the perfon who wounded the white man, and that they would not have been fired on, had not a fpear been thrown at the party, who, they well knew, were looking for Ballederry; and, on the 24th, more than twenty .of them called at Governor Phillip'sjioufe, in their way from Botany-Bay to the lower part of the harbour, where moft of them refided; and others went to thofe with whom they were acquainted, with the fame freedom as if nothing had happened. On enquiry being made after the man who had been wounded, they faid he was gone to his tribe. Several of thefe people remained at the fettlement all night, and amongft them were two itrangers, who feemed as much at their eafe as thofe who were old acquaintances,. Bannelong's wife was now very near her time, which gave our colonifts an opportunity of feeing the preparations the women of New South Wales make on thefe occafions: fhe had two nets hanging from her neck, one of which being new, Governor Phillip was defirous of obtaining, and it was given him, after flie had taken a large piece of the bark of the tea-tree out of it, nicely folded up, and which was intended to lay her infant upon; this feems to be the only preparation, which is made by lying-in women in that country. The bark of the tea-tree is thick in proportion .to the fize of the tree, and is compofed of a great number of layers of very thin bark, in appearance not unlike the bark of the birch-tree j but it is fo very foft, that nothing this country affords can be better calculated for the purpofe for for which It was intended: Bannelong:, however, defired to have a chap. 1 • xxn-blanket for the child, which was given him, and the next day, a net «—-v—j made in rthe Engliih manner, which appeared more acceptable to his 1791 wife than the one {he had parted with. He told Governor Phillip that his wife intended doing him the honour of being brought to bed in his houfe ; but the governor at length perfuaded him that (lie would be better accommodated at the hofpital. The women do not appear to fuffer any great inconvenience, while in this ftate, and they all feem beft pleafed with having boys: Bannelong often faid his was to be a fon. A diforder had frequently been feen amongfl the natives, which had the fame appearance as the itch, and yielded to the fame remedies ; it was now fo common, that nearly the whole of them were infected with it, and feveral boys were oured at the hofpital by rubbing in of brimftonc. Bannelong was a perfect Lazarus, and though he was eafily perfuaded to go to the hofpital and rub himfelf, yet it was not poflible to make him ftay there till he was cured. On the 28th of Auguft, the William and Ann tranfport anchored in the cove. This veffel brought out ftores and provifions, with a ferjeant and thirteen privates belonging to the New South Wales corps, and feveral of their wives and children ; alfo one hundred and eighty male .convicts: feven died on the paffage, and thirty-fix were fick when they landed. The continuance of the dry weather gave our colonifts reafon to fear that their crops would fuffer more this year than they did the laft: it 4 A was chap, was now the feafon for putting the maize into the ground, which was Ip^v—^ fo extremely dry that there wis little probability of its vegetating, if <79r» fown, before fome rain fell: the fun alfo began to have great power, and *u8uft* feveral ponds, adjoining to which Governor Phillip had placed feveral fettlers, were lofing their water very fait. It has already been obferved, that on fome particular days, the winds were heated to fuch a degree as to be almoft infupportable, which had always been imputed to the country round the fettlement being fired by the natives. Early in the morning of the 31ft of Auguft, the wind was northerly, and heated as though it came from the mouth of an oven, though no fires could then be feen ; however, as the day advanced, fmoke appeared over the hills, and in the evening, a confiderable tract of country was feen to be on fire; fome natives were likewife burning the ground on the north fide of the harbour, oppofite the fettlement: this firing of the country, which the natives conftantly do when the wreather is dry, renders any obfervation made by the thermometer very uncertain. But if the 3 iff of Auguft. was an unpleafant day, the evening made ample amends, for it began to rain, and continued raining until the next day at noon. Although few of the convicts were fick when they were firft landed from the tranfports, yet many of them were! extremely weak from long confinement, and a few days carried numbers of them to the hofpital. September. The furgeon's returns, on the firft of September, were two hundred and eighty-five convicts under medical treatment: feveral foldiers and feamen were likewife in the hofpital with a fever of a bad fort, which, was fuppofed to be brought on board by the convicts. On On the 4th of September, the Salamander failed for Norfolk-Tiland, chap. xxi 1 with one hundred and fixty male convicts, fome ftores, and provifions : 1__r two non-commiffioned officers, and eleven privates of the New South 'W* . , September. Wales corps went as a guard. The Mary-Ann tranfport returned from Norfolk-Ifland on the 8th, having landed all the ftores, provifions, and convicts fafe ; but they had loft a boat in going off from the ifland: the failors, however, were all faved. A number of emu's had been feen lately, and this appears to be the feafon in which they breed, as a neft was found near fome frefh water, at the head of the harbour, containing fourteen eggs. The neft was compofed of fern, but it had more the appearance of a quantity of fern collected for a perfon to fit on, than a neft. Soon after taking thefe eggs, an old emu was feen near Profpect-Hill with fome young ones ; feveral of the fettlers chafed them, and the young birds were taken : they did not appear to be more than a week old, and great pains were taken to rear them, but they died, after being in Governor Phillip's poffeflion near five weeks. Thirteen of thefe old birds were feen together in the courfe of this month, but it was a confiderable time fince an emu had been fliot. The pattagorong and baggaray frequently fupplied our colonifts with frcfh meals, and Governor Phillip had three young ones, which were likely to live : he has not the leaft doubt but thefe animals are formed in the falfe belly, having frequently feen them in that fituation, when they were fo fmall, that it did not appear poflible for them to be placed there by the female for the purpofe of gaining ftrength, which is the general opinion, and for which purpofe it is fuppofed nature has given 4 A 2 them CHAP, them the falfe belly ; indeed, the idea of their being formed in the falfe XXII. , D u —j belly, and not in the womb, feems to be confirmed from the following 179,4 particulars, communicated to Governor Phillip by a perfon who had a September, maje anc[ a femaie opoffum in his poffefhon near two years. 44 On the ioth of May, I difcovered the young one in the belly of " the female opofTum, apparently not larger than the end of my little *' finger. I do not exactly recollect when I had examined before, but " I am fure it could not have been long, as I made a conftant practice 44 of fearching for what I then found, but always had'much difficulty " in introducing my finger, the female contracting the orifice fo ex-** tremely clofe. The belly of the female had for fome days been ob- ferved to be increafing in fize, and on the 15th of Auguft, I faw " a young one, for the firft time, the mouth, or opening of the falfe 44 belly, being very much dilated. In the firft week of September, it 44 was compleatly haired, and it ventured out, getting on the mother's 44 back, but on the leaft alarm, it inftantly returned to the falfe belly. l( On the iSth of September, I obferved the young one eating fow-ff thiftle, and it continued on the mother's back, but at night it got " into the falfe belly. From the day I firft faw the young one until tc now, I have generally feen the mother licking it with her tongue, " and it is to be remarked, that fhe has driven the male away from her " fince the 15th of Auguft." Notice has already been taken of thofe perfons who became fettlers, and of the quantity of land allotted them; however, as the fubjoined table fhews every particular refpecting them in one point of view, it may not, perhaps, be unacceptable. 8 SETTLERS. T he FIRST SETTLER S. Names. When became Settlers. Quantity of land granted. Place where. Philip SchafFer. j Superintcndant. ) fOnc hundred and) { 30th March, 1791. ) \ forty acres. J On the north fide of Robert Webb. The following were all marines or failors. Ditto. Sixty acres. the creek leading to. Parramatta. William Reid. Ditto. Ditto. Robert Watfon. 5th April. Ditto. Norfolk I (land. John Drummond. Ditto-. Ditto. Ditto. James Proctor. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Peter Hibbs. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Owen Cavenaugh. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. 7amcs Painter. Ditto. Ditto. " Ditto, William Mitchell. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. William Hambly. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Charles Heritage. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Samuel King. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. William Mitchell. Ditto. Ditto. Thomas Bramwcll. Ditto. Ditto. Thomas Bilhop. Ditto. Ditto. John M'Curthey. Ditto. Ditto. Lawrence Richards. Ditto. Ditto. John Munday. Ditto. Ditto. rhomas Chipp. Ditto, Ditto. William Strong. Ditto. Ditto, James M'Manus. Ditto. Ditto. Thomas O'Brycn. Ditto; Ditto. Richard Knight. Ditto. Ditto. Abraham Hand. Ditto. Ditto. William Dcmpfey. Thomas SculSey. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. John Barrisford. Ditto. Ditto. James Redmond. Ditto1. Ditto. William Tonks. Ditto. Ditto. Thomas Halfpenny. 1 Ditto. Ditto. William Standlcy. j Ditto. Ditto. John Gowi'ii. Thomas Dukes. Ditto. Ditto. ! Ditto. Ditto. J uncs Williams. Ditto. Ditto. Daniel S.andlield. Ditto. Ditto. John Roberts. Ditto. Ditto. William Smuns. Ditto. Ditto. John Foley. Ditto. Ditto. Patrick Connell. Ditto. Ditto. John Redman. Ditto. Ditto- Thomas Spencer. Ditto. Ditto. John Scott. Ditto. Ditto.. C O N~ The CONVICT SETTLERS. Names. When became Settlers. Quantity of land granted James Rufc. 30th March, 1791. Thirty acres. Charles Williams. 18th July. ' Ditto. James Stuart. (Jeorge JLiflc. William Kilby. William Butler. John Nicholls. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Twenty acres. Thirty acres. Fifty acres. Ditto. Thirty acres. John Riimfay. Ditto. Fifty acres. Mathew Evcringham. John Summers. John Ricliards. William Field. Jofeph Bilhop. Curtis Brand. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Thirty acres. Ditto. Fifty acres. Ditto. Thirty acres. John Silverthoin. Ditto. Ditto. Thomas Martin. Samuel Griffiths. James Cadles. Jofi ph Morley. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Fifty acres. William Hubbard. Ditto. Ditto. John Anderfon. William Elliott. Jofeph Marihall. Ditto Ditto. Ditto. Ditto, Thirty acres. Ditto. Edward Varndcll. Ditto. Thirty acres. Simon Burn. 17th Auguft. Fifty acres. John Brown. William Moulds. John BafV'rm John Williams. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Sixty acres. Thirty acres. Fifty acres. Ditto. Edward Pugh. Ditto. Seventy acres. William Pariih. Robert Forretler. James White. William Crofs. James Walbourne. Benjamin Fentum. Ditto. Sixty acres. Ten acres. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Place where. Parramatta. f South fide of the creek < leading to Parramat-( ta. Ditto. ) Four miles to the weft-3 ward of Parramatta. Ditto. Ditto. f At theponds,two miles < to the north-ealt of I Parramatta. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. J Four miles to the weft-I ward of Parramatta. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto, f At the ponds, two miles < to the north-call of ( Parramatta. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. C At tl;: ponds, two miles < to the north-ealt of [ Parramatta. f At the northern boun- < clary farms,two miles { from Parramatta. Ditto. Ditto. f Four miles to the weft-\ ward of Parramatta. Ditto. Norfolk Ifland. DktO. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Pete; The CONVICT SETTLERS. Names. Peter Woodcock. Edward Kimbcrly John Welch. William Bell. John Turner, Thomas Kclley. William Parr. John Herbert. When became Settlers. Quantity of land granted. Ten acres. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Thirty acres. Fifty acres. Sixty acres. Place where. .1 Norfolk Ifland. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. At the ponds, two miles to the north-eaft of Parramatta. At the northern boundary farms,t wo mile* from Parramatta. Four miles to the weftward of Parramatta,. CHAPTER C II A P T E R XXIII. Arrival of the Gorgon, and feveral tranfports at Port Jackfon.—The number of convilis brought out in thefe veffels.—A whale-fjhery efla-bllfhed on the Coajl of New South Wales. CHAP t"\^ °* September, 1791, the Gorgon, Captain John JCXIH.^ parkerj came into the harbour. She failed from Spitbead on the '79'- 15th of the preceding March, had flopped at TenerirT, St. Jago, and September. the Q^ q£ QQQd Hopc . and ^ ng received on board as much of the provifions and Ilores, which were of the Guardian's cargo, as the fhip could flow, together with three bulls, twenty-three cows, four rams, fixty-two ewes, and one boar; fhe left the Cape on the 30th of July. Captain King returned in this (hip, his Majefly having been pleafed to give him the rank of mailer and commander in the navy, with a com- t million as Lieutenant-Governor of Norfolk Ifland, in consideration of jhis ufeful ferviccs. The chaplain of the New South Wales corps, and feveral who were appointed to civil employments, came out likewife in the Gorgon, and as fhe was to bring out flores and provifions, her lower deck guns were left in England, and her complement reduced to one hundred men. Of the «79*. September* the cattle received on board the Gorgon, at the Cape of Good Hope, chap, three bulls, fix cows, three rams, and nine ewes died on the paffage ; one cow died foon after landing, and the ewes were feverely afflicted with the fcab, but it was hoped they would foon recover : the bulls all dying was an unfortunate circumftance; however, our Colonifts had a bull calf and patience ftill left. Seed and a variety of fruit-trees in good condition were likewife received by the Gorgon; and when fhe left the Cape, five tranfports were preparing to leave it for this colony. Thirty male convicts were on board the Gorgon, and aftifted in working the fhip, her complement as a ftore-fhip being only one hundred men, officers included. On the 26th of September, the Queen tranfport, having Lieutenant Blow on board as an agent, arrived from Ireland with provifions, and one hundred and twenty-fix male, and twenty-one female convi&s: feven male convicts and one female died on the paffage. The Active tranfport arrived the fame day with provifions, and one hundred and fifty-four male convicts: both thefe fhips brought a part of the Guardian's cargo from the Cape of Good Hope, and detachments from the New South Wales corps. The weather ftill continued fhowery, and the gardens began to pro-mife plenty of vegetables; the wheat alfo, wThich, it was feared, would have been loft by the long continuance of dry weather, improved greatly in appearance : nearly all the maize was put into the ground, and the greater part of it was up. The weather had lately been very unfettled, but better than what Governor Phillip ever found it in the Brazils at this feafon of the year. 4 R The The furgeon's return of fick was greatly increafed fince the arrival of the laft veffels ; for though the number of fick convicts were not con^ fiderable when landed from the fhips, they were, in general, greatly emaciated, and appeared ftarved, and worn out with confinement. The return of fick on the ift of October was three hundred and four convicts One foldier, fifteen male, and one female convict, with three children, died in the laft month; and two convicts were loft in the. woods. The Albemarle tranfport, Lieutenant R. P. Young as agent, arrived on the 13th, and the Britannia came in the next day: the Albemarle brought out twenty-three foldiers and one woman of the New South Wales corps, two hundred and fifty male, and fix female convicts, one free woman, a convict's wife arid one child. Thirty-two male convicts died on the paflage, and forty-four were fick on their arrival. The Britannia brought out thirteen foldiers, one woman, and three children of the New South Wales corps, and one hundred and twenty-nine male convicts. One foldier and twenty-one convicts died on the paffage, and thirty-eight were fick when landed. When thefe veffels came in, the Admiral Barrington tranfport was off the port, but it blowing hard on the night of the 14th, that fhip was not in fight the next day. The convicts on board the Albemarle, during the paffage, attempted to feize on the fhip, and the ringleader, having knocked down a cen-tinel, and feized his fword, got on the quarter-deck, and was going to kill the feaman at the helm ; but the mafter of the fhip, hearing a noife, took up a blundcrbufs, which was loaded, and difcharged it at the P O R T J A C K S O N. 555 the villain, who findine himfelf wounded, dropped the fword and ran chap. XXIII away. Many of the convicts had got their irons off, and were rufhing v.—v-^> aft for the quarter-deck but, on feeing their leader wounded, they ran r/9r» October, forward and hid themfelves, fo that the whole bufinefs was put an end to in a few minutes. After a fhort converfation amongft the officers, two of the ringleaders were hanged, and two feamen, who had furnifhed the convicts with knives, and who were to have conducted the fhip to America after all the officers and fhip's company, with the foldiers, had been put to death, were landed at Madeira, in order that they might be fent to England: they were both Americans, and one of them had a fuperficial knowledge of navigation. The Admiral Barrington arrived on the 16th of October. This fhip brought out a captain, three noncommiflioned officers, and twenty-four privates of the New South Wales corps, with two hundred and fixty-four male convicts : four women came out with their hufbands, who were convicts, and two children. Ninety-fcvcn were fick on board this fhip. The whole number of convicts embarked on board the ten tranfports, including thirty in the Gorgon, were one thoufmd fix hundred and ninety-five males, fixty-eiglit females, and eleven children ; of whom, one hundred and ninety-four males, four females, and one child died on the paffage. • What provifions were in the ftore, added to thofe which were brought out in thefe tranfports, would not fumifh many months provifions for this colony; Governor Phillip, therefore, took the Atlantic into the fervice as a naval tranfport. . 4 B 2 The chap. The Lieutenant-Governor of Norfolk Ifland, Captain Paterfon, of w—-j the New South Wales corps, with part of his compaay, twenty-nine I79,» marines who had been difcharged to become fettlers j feveral convicts, October. . . whofe time of tranfportation being expired, were admitted as fettlers, with thirty-three male, and twelve female convicts, and a confiderable quantity of ftores and provifions were embarked on board the Atlantic, for Norfolk Iiland, under the direction of Lieutenant Bowen, as naval agent j who, after landing what he had on board for the iiland, had orders to proceed to Calcutta, where he was to load with provifions foe the colony. The great number of fpermaceti whales that had been feen on the coaft of New South Wales, induced the mailers of thofe veffels which were fitted out for that fifhery, and intended, after landing the convicts, to proceed to the north-welt coaft of America, to try for a cargo here : indeed, the mailer of the Britannia, a veffel belonging to Meflieurs Enderbys, of London, who have the merit of being the firft that adventured to the South Seas for whales, affured Governor Phillip, that he had feen more fpermaceti whales in his paffage from the fouth cape to Port Jackfon, than he had ever feen on the Brazil coaft, although he had been fix years on that fifhery. No time was loft by the mailers of thefe fhips in getting ready for fea: the Britannia failed on the 25th of October, in company with the William and Ann: the Mary Ann and the Matilda failed the day before, November, and the Salamander failed on the ift of November. The Britannia returned from her cruize on the ioth of November, being the firft fhip which had ever rifhed for whales on the coaft of New South Wales, x The PORT JACKSON. 557 The following letter from the Mafter of the Britannia, to MelTrs. CHAP. XXIII. Enderbys, his owners, we fubjoin for the reader's fatisfaction, becaufe 1 ' r it fhews the firft introduction of a whale-fiihery, on the coaft of New 1791. South Wales. November. Ship Britannia, Sydney, Tort-Jack/on, November 29, 1791. Meflrs, Samuel Enderby and Sons, Gentlemen, " I have the pleafure to inform you of our fafe arrival in Port Jackfon,, in New South Wales, October 13, after a paiTage of fifty-five days from the Cape of Good Hope. We were only fix weeks from the Cape to Van Diemen's Land, but met with contrary winds after we doubled Van Diemen's Land, which made our paiTage longer than I expected. We parted company with our agent the next day after we left the Cape of Good Hope, and never faw him again till we arrived at Port-Jackfon, both in one day. The Albemarle and we failed much alike. The Admiral Bfli Milton arrived three days after us. I am very well myfelf, thank Go>. ' all the crew are in high fpirits. We loft in all on our parTa^ .rem England twenty-one convicts and one foldier. We had one birth on our paiTage from the Cape. I tried to make and made the ifland of Amfterdam, and made it in the longitude of 76" 4' 14" eaft from Greenwich, by a good lunar obfervation: my intention was to run clofe to it to difcover whether the fealing bufinefs might not have been carried on there; but the weather was fo bad, and thick weather coming on, I did not think it prudent to attempt it, likewife to lofe a night's run, and a fair wind blowing. The day before we made it we faw two fhoals of fperm-whales. After we doubled the fouth-weft cape of Van Diemen's Land, we faw a large fperm. whale chap, off Mark's*Iflahds, but did not fee any more, being very thick weather XXIII. A—v—-j and blowing hard, till within fifteen leagues of the latitude of Port I79U Jackfon. Within three leagues of the fliore, we faw fperm whales in November. great p]entv . we failed through different fhoals of them from twelve o'clock in the day till after fun-fet, all round the horizon, as far as I could fee from the mail-head: in fad, I faw a very great profpect in making our fiihery upon this coaft and eftablifhing a fiihery here. Our people were in the higheft fpirits at fo great a fight, and I was determined, as foon as I got in and got clear of my live lumber, to make all poflible difpatch on the fiihery on this coafl. *' On our arrival here, I waited upon his Excellency Governor Phillip, and delivered my letters to him. I had the mortification to iind he wanted to difpatch me with my convicts to Norfolk-Ifland, and likewife wanted to purchafe our veffel to flay in the country, which I refufed to do. I immediately told him the fecret of feeing the whales, thinking that would get me off going to Norfolk-Ifland, that there was a profpect of eftablifhing a fiihery he/e, .and might be of fervice to the colony, and left him. I waited upon him two .hours afterwards with a box directed to him : he took me into a private room, he told me he had read my letters, and that he would render me every fervice that lay in his power; that next morning he would difpatch every long-boat in the fleet to take our convi&s out, and take our ilores out immediately, which he did accordingly, and did every thing to difpatch us on the fiihery. Captain King ufed alLhis interefl in the bufinefs j he gave his kind refpects to you. The fecret of feeing whales our failors could not keep from the red of the whalers here, the news put them all to the ftir, but have the pleafurc to fay, we were the firft fhip ready for fea; notwithstanding they had been fome of them a month arrived before us. We went out, 6 in in company with the William and Annthe eleventh day after our arrival. CHAP. The next clay after we went out, we had very bad weather, and fell in — with a very great-number of fperm whales. At fun-rifmg in the morning, we could fee them all round the horizon. We run through them in different bodies till two o'clock in the afternoon, when the weather abated a little, but a very high fea running, I lowered away two boats, and Bunker followed the example; in lefs than two hours we had feven whales killed, but unfortunately a heavy, gale came on from the fouth--welt, and took the fhip aback with a fquall, that the fhip could only fetch two of them, the reft we were obliged to cut from, and make tho beft of our way on board to fave the boats and crew. The William and Ann faved one, and we took the other and rode by them all night with a heavy gale of wind. Next morning it moderated, and we took her in ; flic-made us twelve barrels. We faw. large whales next day, but were not able to lower away our boats ; we faw whales every day feu* a week after, but the weather being fo bad, we could not attempt to lower a boat down : we cruized fifteen days in all, having left our fixty fhakes of butts on fhore with the Gorgon's cooper, to fet up in our abfence, which Captain Parker was fo kind as to let us have, and wanting to purchafe more cafks of Mr. Calvert's -fhips, and having no profpect of getting any good weather, I thought it molt prudent to come in and refit the fhip, and compleat my cafks and fill my water, and by that time the weather would be more moderate. The day after we came in, the Mary-Ann came in off a cruize, having met with very bad weather, fhipped a fea, and wafhed her try-works overboard. lie informed me, he left the Matilda in a harbour to the northward, and that the Salamander had killed a forty barrel whale, and loft her by bad weather. There is nothing againft making a voyage on this coaft but the weather, which I expect will, be better next month y I think to make another month's StXlil* mont^ s tr^ °^ ^ a vovage can ^e got upon this coaft, it will **v—> make it fhorter than going to Peru 3 and the governor has been very at9u -attentive in fending greens for refreshment to our crew at different November. times. Captain Parker has been kind, and has given me every afftftance that lay in his power; he carries our long-boat home, as we cannot fell her here : he will difpofe of her for you, or leave her at Portfmouth : he will wait upon you on his arrival in London. Captain Ball, of the Supply, who is the bearer of this letter, has likewife been very kind, and rendered us every fervice that lay in his power; he will wait upon you likewife. The colony is all alive, expecting there will be a rendezvous for the fifhermen. We fhall be ready to fail on Tuefday the 22d, on a cruize. The Matilda has fince arrived here ; flie faw the Salamander four days ago : flie had feen more whales, but durft not lower their boats down : flie has been into harbour twice. We have the pleafure to fay, we killed the firft four whales on this coaft. I have enclofed you the certificates for the convicts, and receipts for the ftores. Captain Nepean has paid every attention to me, and has been fo kind as to let us have a cooper: he dines with me to-morrow. I am collecting you fome beautiful birds, and land animals, and other curiofities for you. The fhip remains tight and ftrong, and in good condition. I will write you by the Gorgon man of war; Are fails in about a month or fix week's time. I am, Sirs, Your humble fervant, THOMAS MELVILLE. The The Matilda and the Mary-Ann tranfports returned from their fifhing- c h a p> xxiji cruize on the ioth of November. Thefe veffels had run to the fouth-ward in fearch of feals, and met with very bad weather, but faw no *79'-fifh. The Matilda had put into Jervis-Bay, which, according November, to the matter's account, is a very fine harbour, the anchorage very good, and capable of receiving the largeft fhips. Thefe two veffels, after refitting, failed again to try for fifh on this coaft. Our colonifts began to reap the barley on the 22d of November, and the wheat was getting ripe. The Supply armed tender, after having been under repair from the time flie returned from Norfolk-Ifland, was found, on a furvey, to be in fo bad a ftate, that the beft repair which could be given her in this country, would only render her ferviceable for fix months longer; Governor Phillip, therefore, ordered her to England, and fhe failed on the 26th of November. From the debilitated ftate in which many of the convicts were landed from the laft fhips, the number of fick were greatly increafed the fur-o-eon's returns on the 27th, being upwards of four hundred fick at Parramatta ; and the fame day medicines were diftributed to one hundred and ninety-two at Sydney. To the number of fick at Parramatta, upwards of one hundred may be added, who were fo weak that they could not be put to any kind of labour, not even to that of pulling grafs for thatching the huts. Forty-two convicts died in the month of November, and in thefe people nature feemed fairly to be worn out $ many of them were fo thoroughly exhaufted that they expired without a groan, and apparently without any kind of pain. 4 C Showers CHAP. Showers of rain had been more frequent lately than for many months xxiii v—^ paft, but not in the abundance which the ground required; and, from 1791. the extreme drynefs of the wea?h»r, and from the ground not being fulli-Novembcr. cjcnt]y worked before the maize was put into it, a great number of acres were likely to be deftroyed. This was one of the many incon-veniencies the fettlement laboured under, from the want of people to employ in agriculture, who would feel themfelves interefted in the labour of thofe that were under their direction, and who had fome knowledge as farmers. The following parcels of land were in cultivation at Parramatta, in November, 1791. Acres. Roods. Perches. 351 2 5 in Maife. 44 1 8 Wheat. 6 1 30 Barley. 100 Oats. 20 3 Potatoes. 42 o Not cultivated, but cleared. 4 2 15 Moftly planted with vines. 60 o The governor's garden, partly fown with maize andwheat. 80 o o Garden-ground belonging to individuals. 170 o Land in cultivation by the New South Wales corps. 150 o o Cleared, and to be fowed with turnips. 913 2 Ground in cultivation by fettlers. 28 o o Ground in cultivation by officers of the civil and military. 134 o o Inclofed, and the timber thinned for feeding cattle. The above grounds were meafured by David Burton, the public gardener, who obferves, that the foil in moft places is remarkably good, 5 and and only wants cultivation to be fit for any ufe, for the ground that has chap. XXIII been the longed in cultivation bears the beft crops. \ .." ' f Of the convicts who were received by the laft (hips, there were great numbers of the worft of characters, particularly amongft thofe who came from Ireland, and whofe great ignorance led them into fchemes more deftructive to themfelves than they were likely to be to the fettlement. Some of thefe people had formed an idea that they could go along the coaft, and fubfift on ojtfters and other fhell-fifh, till they reached fome of the Chinefe fettlements : others had heard that there were a copper coloured people only one hundred and fifty miles to the northward, where they would be free.-Full of thefe notions, three parties fet off] but, after ftraggling about for many days, feveral of them were taken, and others returned to the fettlement. Governor Phillip was lefs inclined to inflia any punifhment on thefe people, than to punifh thofe who had deceived them by the information of " not being far from fome of the Chinefe fettlements, and near people who would receive them, and where they would have every thing they wanted, and live very happy :" thefe reafons moft of them afiigned for going into the woods, and where fome of them ftill remained, dreading a fevere punifliment if they returned : a general pardon was therefore promifed to all thofe who came back within a certain time, as feveral were fuppofed to be lurking in the woods near the fettlement; however, fome of thefe wretches were fo prcpofTefTed with the idea of being able to live in the woods and on the fea-coaft until they could reach a fettlement, or find a people who would maintain them without labour, that feveral who were brought in when almoft famifhed, and carried to the hofpital, went away again as foon as they were judged able to return to their labour ; and although what would be called a day's work in England is 4 C 2 very v 1791. November. CJiAP* very feldom done by any convict in the fettlement, yet fome of them XXIII. {—' declared that they would fooner perifh in the woods than be obliged to I791' work; and forty were now abfent. In order to give thofe who might November. be ftill lurking near the fettlement an opportunity of returning, all the convicts were affembled, and a pardon was promifed to all who returned within five days; at the fame time they were affured that very fevere punifliment would be inflicted on any who were taken after the expiration of that time, or who fliould in future attempt to leave the fettlement.-Several appeared fenfible of the lenity (hewn them when their irons were taken off, but fome of them appeared capable of the moft defperate attempts, and even talked of feizing on the foldiers arms ; they were, however, informed, that no mercy would be fhewn to any who were even feen near thofe that might make an attempt of the kind. All the whalers who came into the harbour to refit, failed again by December, the ift of December, and the Albemarle and the Active tranfports failed on the 2d for Bombay, where they were to load with cotton for England. A new ftore was now covered in at Sydney, which was the beft that had been built in the colony ; and was intended for the convicts cloathing and the implements of hufbandry : it has a fecond floor, and is eighty feet in length by twenty-four feet in breadth. A building of fifty-fix feet by twenty-four was likewife-covered in at Parramatta, and was intended for a place of worfhip, until a church could be built. The idea of finding a Chinefe fettlement at no great diftance to the northward, ftill prevailed amongft the Irifh convicts; and on the 4th of December, two of them ftole the furgeon's boat, but they only got a few miles to the northward of the harbour when they were obliged to 4 run run her on fliore. Some officers who were out a mooting, faw this chap. XXIII boat on the beach, and ftove a plank in her, that fhe might not be ^— carried away; they alfo faw the two men, who ran into the woods; J79r» however, a convict who had been fix weeks in the woods, and was fcarcely able to walk, gave himfelf up to the officers, and, with their afliftance, was able to return to Sydney. Many of thofe convicts who left the fettlement, as has already been related, came back; fome were ftill miffing, and feveral were faid to be killed by the natives. The miferable fituation of thofe who returned to the fettlement, would, it was believed, moft effectually prevent any more excurlions of the like nature. On the 5th of December, the Queen tranfport returned from Norfolk-Ifland, with the lieutenant-governor of the territory, who was relieved by Lieutenant-Governor King; a detachment of marines who had been doing duty on the ifland; a party of the New South Wale corps, who were relieved by Captain Paterfon, and fome convicts, whofe times for which they had been fentenced were expired.--By the 7th, the Gorgon was nearly ready for fea, and the detachment of marines who came from England in the firft ihips was ordered to hold themfelves ready to embark, except one captain, three lieutenants, eight non-commiffioned officers, and fifty privates, who were to ftay at Port Jackfon until the remainder of the New South Wales corps fhould arrive : thofe marines who were defirous of becoming fettlers, remained likewife, to the number of thirty-one. Governor Phillip had frequently been folicited by Bannelong, to receive Ballederry, the native who wounded a convict in June, 1791, into favour CHAP, favour apain, but he always refufed; however, on the 14th of De- i—v-1 cember, he was informed that Ballederry was extremely ill. The l79u furgeon had been to fee him, and found him in a fever; and the firft December. qUCn^on he afked was, whether the Governor was ftill angry, or if he would let him be brought to the hofpital to be cured. Bannelong had fetched the furgeon to Ballederry, and returned with him to Governor Phillip ; who faying he was not angry, and telling him .to bring his companion to the fettlement, he faid he would; fo, early the next morning, Ballederry was brought in. At firft, he feemed under great apprehensions, but they prefently fubfided, on the governor taking him by the hand, and promising that when he was recovered he fliould refide with him again. Poor Ballederry appeared to be very ill, and went with the furgeon to the hofpital. Of thofe convicts who were received from the laft fhips, one hundred and fourteen males, and two females, died before the 15th of December : the number of fick had confiderably decreafed lately; the furgcon's lift being now reduced from fix hundred and two to four hjiindred and three. The Matilda and the Mary-Ann tranfports came into the harbour on the 16th; thefe fhips had. been out but nine days. The Matilda had been into Jcrvis-Bay, but had not feen any fpermaceti whales. The Mary-Ann fell in with one fhoal; it was in the evening when all the boats were abfent from the fhip : the mafter was in hopes they fliould have the fifh about them the next morning, but he had the mortification to find that a current had driven the fhip fifty miles to the fouthward. The « The Gorgon dropped down the harbour on the 17th of December, chap. XXIII Captain Parker intending to fail the next day. The detachment under v^-v^ the command of Major Rofs were embarked, agreeable to the orders '791* which had previoufly been given. December. Here clofes the Journal of Governor Phillip; which contained'the lateft accounts from New South Wales; being received by the Gorgon, that left Port Jackon in December, 1791. The following Journal of Lieutenant Ball of the Supply, is fubjoined; becaufe it contains an account of a voyage from Port Jackfon by the route of Cape Horn, which was made in a ihorter time than had ever been performed by any other veffel. CHAPTER CHAPTER XXIV. The Supply leaves Port Jackfon.—Receives fome damage in a form.— Doubles Cape Horn.—Paf's Statens land.—Anchors at Rio Janeiro.— Refreshments procured.—Departure from Rio Janeiro.—Proceeds towards England.—Arrives of the Lizard.—Particulars refpec~ling Norfolk-Ifland. chap. TJAV ING received orders from Governor Phillip to get the Sup- XXIV. I I '—j A. X ply ready for fea, I had every thing in readinefs by the 25th of November. November; and early the next morning, we weighed anchor, and flood 261 out of Sydney Cove, with a moderate breeze at eaft-north-eait, and pleafant weather. I had a Kanguroo on board, which I had directions to carry to Lord Grenville, as a prefent for his Majefty. Governor Phillip, accompanied by Captain John Parker, of the Gorgon, break-fafled on board the Supply the morning of our departure ; and foon afterwards they left us, and proceeded to the look-out at Port-Jackfon. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we loft light of the land, and flood to the fouthward, with a moderate breeze at north-eafl. In the forenoon ty. of the 29th, the wind fhifted to the fouthward, and blew a very ftrong gale, which brought us under low fail, but at five o'clock the weather grew moderate. A vafl number of birds were about the fhip, and a land bird, of a lingular kind, was caught: our latitude, at noon, was 38° 31' fouth, and the longitude 1540 23' eaft. On ENGLAND FROM PORT JACKSON. 569 On the zd of December, we fvw a whale; our latitude, at noon, chap. XXIV. was 440 21' fouth, and the longitude, by lunar obfervation, 156" 20' *—j call • the variation of the compafs, io" oo'eaft. I now ordered the ''9V 1 December. fhip to be well cleaned every day between decks, being firmly convinced 2. that clcanlinefs conduces very much to preferve the health of feaman. On the 4th, we had light, variable winds, chiefly from the northward : the latitude, at noon, was 470 10' fouth, the longitude, by obferved 4. diftances of the fun and moon, 160" 20', and the variation of the compafs uc 20'eaft. In the afternoon, a thick fog came on, with light drizzling rain, which continued till the.forenoon of the 5th, when the ?. fog difperfed, and the weather cleared up. We faw fome rock weed, and a great number of blue petrels and albatroffes were about the fhip. In the afternoon, we pafled more rock weed, and faw a number of whales. On the 6th, we had a frefli gale from the fouthward, and faw 6. a vaft number of petrels; albatroftes, 6cc. were about the veffel : we pafled a great quantity of rock-weed, and perceiving the water to change colour, we hove to, and founded, but got no bottom with 120 fathoms of line. The wind continued to blow ftrong from the fouthward, which Wrought on a very high, irregular fwell, and occafioned the fhip to labour and work very much : we ftill pafled vaft quantities of rock-weed, and had a number of birds about the fhip. The latitude, at noon on the Sth, was 50° 44' fouth, and the longitude, by the time- 8. keeper, 1720 56' eaft. The fhip laboured greatly, which occafioned her to make water in her top-fides. Great numbers of petrels, gulls, albatroftes, &c. were daily feen about the fhip, and a whale was feen in the afternoon of the ioth. The wind continued to blow from the fouthward, ftrong and in fqualls, until the 12th, when it fhifted to the northward and weftward. The latitude, at noon, was 530 56' fouth, and the longitude, by the time-keeper, 18 8° 49/ eaft, 4 D At 10. 12. CHAP. At two o'clock in the morning of the 13th, the fhip was pooped L-——1 with a very heavy fea, which entirely flove in the two midfhip windows December. °f tne ftern» and filled the cabin with water, great part of which ran *3- down into the bread-room. In the afternoon of the 14th, a violent 14. . fcpiall came on from the weftward, which at fix o'clock increafed to a perfect ftorm, with an exceeding high fea; this occafioned me to keep the fhip before it, and I found her fleer very well; indeed, much better than I could poflibly have expected in fuch a fituation. The weather 15. continued fqually, with hail and fnow, until the morning of the 16th, when the wind fhifted to the fouthward, and the weather grew more moderate. The latitude, at noon, was 520 58' fouth, and the longitude 20. 2070 09' eaft. On the 20th, we pafled a large patch of fea-weed ; feveral gulls and divers fea-birds were at that time about the fhip. Portable foup, effence of malt, and four krout were now ferved out to the fhip's company. The weather was thick and foggy, which prevented us 22. from getting any obfervation until the 22d, when our latitude, at noon, was 530 59' fouth, and the longitude, by the time-keeper, 231° 36' eafl. A number of fheerwaters and petrels were about the fhip. We had fre- 24. quent fqualls, attended with hail and fnow. On the 24th, the wind fluffed to the eaftward, and the weather was more moderate, but on the 27. 27th, it again got to the weftward, blowing ftrong, and in violent fqualls, attended with fnow and hail. A great number of albatroffes, blue petrels, and fheerwaters were about the fhip; a high, irregular fea caufed her to labour much, and flie made a deal of water in her topfkles. The latitude, at noon, was 570 32' fouth, and 2450 42' eaft longitude. 29. On the 29th, the longitude, by the time-keeper, wTas 259° 16' eaft, and by account 2560 50' eafl; at the fame time the latitude was 560 30/ fouth. The wind was ftill to the weftward, attended with very heavy jr, rain. In the morning of the 31ft, the wind blew ftrong from the northward. northward. Great numbers of gulls were about the fhip, and we paffed chap. a deal of rock-weed. t—Ay^.j 1792. January. During the iff and 2d of January, 1792, the wind was variable, fre- 2. quently fhifting from north-north-weft to weft-fouth-weft and fouth-eaft by eaft. At noon on the 3d, we were in 560 15' fouth latitude, 3. and 281* 57' eaft longitude. The next forenoon, we faw a feal, and 4. had a number of albatroftes about the fhip: we now had ftrong gales from the north-eaft quarter, attended with fnow and fleet. A heavy fquall came on in the morning of the 5 th, and in hauling down the main-top-niaft ftayfail, the brails broke, and the fail was blown in pieces, the greateft part of which fell overboard before it could be got down and flowed. In the afternoon, we faw feveral gulls, a feal, and fome fhell-drakes. At noon on the 6th, we law Cape Horn, bearing & weft-fouth-weft half weft, and the northernmoft land in fight, weft half fouth, diftant fix or feven leagues. At that time, our latitude was 56° 02' fouth, and the longitude 291° 45' eaft. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 7th, we faw Staten Land, bearing from north by- -weft to north-we ft by weft half weft, twelve or thirteen leagues diftant: at noon, the north point bore north, a little wefterly, diftant about eight leagues. In the afternoon, feveral whales were feen near the fhip, the body of Staten Land then bore fouth-fouth-weft. The wind, which for fome days had been to the fouthward, fhifted, in the morning of the 8th, to north-weft, with a moderate breeze and fine weather. $. In the afternoon, we parted fome pieces of lea-weed, amongft which was a feal; we alfo faw another feal and fome penguins: feveral whales and large flocks of blue petrels were about the fhip. The next fore- g. noon, we paffed fome fea-weed and a number of penguins; on which we founded, but got no ground with 100 fathoms of line. Our lati- 4 D 2 tude, tude, at noon, was 52° 58' fouth, and longitude, by the time-keeper, 296" 13' eaft. We founded again in the evening, but got no ground with T45 fathoms of line. At midnight, we had a calm for about two hours, the weather thick and foggy, with thunder and lightning to the fouthward. Early in the morning, the fog cleared a little, and a light breeze fprung up from the northward. Many feals and whales were about the fhip; and in the afternoon, we faw a number of penguins. At eight o'clock in the evening we founded, and had 96 fathoms of water, over a bottom of fine find and mud. During the night, we had moderate breezes from the fouthward, attended with fmall rain. In the forenoon of the 11 th, we faw a great number of whales, and feveral penguins. During the afternoon and night, we had ftrong gales from the fouthward, attended with frequent fqualls. The next forenoon, we faw feveral large patches of fea-weed : the wind ftill continued to blow very ftrong from the fouthward, which occafioned a high fea; and the fhip rolling very much, occafioned her to make a deal of water in her upper works. In the morning of the 13th, the weather grew more moderate : we faw a port Egmont hen, and feveral pieces of rock-weed. At noon our latitude was 45° 46' fouth, and the longitude 302" 49' eaft. On the 15th, the weather grew moderate, the wind to the northward. Some obferved diftances of the fun and moon on the 16th, gave 305° 46' eaft longitude ; the latitude at that time was 420 34 fouth. In the afternoon of the 17th, we had a ftrong appearance of a current, and paffed a large number of whales. The next day, the water being dif-coloured, we founded with 160 fathoms of line, but got no ground. The wind ftill kept to the northward, with moderate breezes and fine weather. Effence of malt and vinegar were ferved to the fhip's company on the 24th, and every precaution was taken to preferve their health. In the evening, we had much lightning to the northward: the * wind wind blew frefh from the north-eaft, and we had frequent heavy fqualls chap. attended with rain. Towards noon on the 26th, the wind grew light v. 1792. and variable : the latitude was 32° 20' fouth, and the longitude in' 02' 0 J January. eafl. In the evening, we had much lightning to the northward: 26. towards midnight, a frefli breeze fprung up from the fouth-eaft. The next forenoon, we faw a turtle and feveral ffying-fifh ; and at fix o'clock *> in the afternoon, we faw a brig to the northward, and foon afterwards fpoke with her. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 28th, we faw the 28. land bearing from north-weft to weft-fouth-weft. We founded in 26 fathoms of water, over a bottom of foft mud. At eight o'clock, fome high level land bore weft half fouth, eight or nine leagues diftant. I ordered the jolly-boat to be hoifted out, and v/e tried the current, which was found to fet north-eaft by north, at the rate of half a mile an hour, or nearly. At noon, we had clear foundings in 24, 22, 20, and 18 fathoms over a bottom of fine brown fand and mud. At fix o'clock, wc tacked, the extremes of the land bearing from fouth-weft to north by eaft; the neareft land about four miles diftant. During the night, we had regular foundings from 13 to 25 fathoms. The next morning, we tacked and ftood towards the land, with light variable winds. At noon, the extremes of the land were from north to fouth 50" weft ; the neareft land about ten miles diftant. In the afternoon, we faw a large turtle; and at three o'clock, we founded in 19 fathoms, over a muddy bottom. At fix o'clock, the neareft land bore north by weft half weft, about three leagues diftant. During the night, we had a light breeze from the weftward: we frequently founded, and had from 17 to 23 fathoms water. At noon on the 30th, the neareft land bore north 750 weft, eight or nine miles diftant. Wc ftood along fliore, with a light breeze at fouth-fouth-eaft ; and at fun-fet, the land bore from north 320 weft to fouth 50" weft. The next morning, Wc fleered along the ifland of St. Catherine; 29, 30, St. Catherine; and at four o'clock in the afternoon, were abreaft of the Fort of Santa Cruz : I fent an oflicer on fliore to the fort, and foon afterwards we anchored in five fathoms water; the fort of Santa Cruz bearing north-north-weft, and the oppofite fort north-eaft. We faluted the fort with nine guns, which was returned by an equal number. The next morning, we weighed, and anchored nearer to the watering-place; mooring the fhip with a cable each way, (north-eaft and fouth-weft) in three fathoms and a half, over a muddy bottom. In this fituation, the fort of Santa Cruz bore north-north-eaft, the oppofite fort, fouth-eaft ; the point to the fouthward of the watering-place fouth-weft, and the watering-place weft, half a mile diftant. We erected a tent on ihore for the cooper, who was bufily employed in repairing our cafks, and the other hands were employed in watering and other neceflary duties. As we had now made 310° 43' of eaft longitude, which is equal to 2oh. 42mm. 52fee. of time, wc, of courfe, dropped one day, and called the cth of February, Saturday the 4th. This afternoon I fent two boats on fliore for various refrefliments, having nearly completed our water. In the morning of the 5th, the cutter fwamped at her moorings aftern ; the oars and tiller waflied out of her, and were loft. On the 7th, moft of our bufinefs being finiihed, we unmoored ; and 1 after Standing a little farther out of the harbour, we anchored with the fmall bower, in five and a quarter fathoms ; the Fort of Santa Cruz bearing north-north-weft, and the oppofite fort, north-eaft. We completed our water and every other duty on the 8th, and the next morning weighed and made fail. At eleven o'clock, we faluted the fort with eleven guns, which was returned by an equal number: at noon, we *vcre abreaft of Santa Cruz Fort. With a light breeze from the northward, ward, we were employed in turning down the harbour; and at feven chap o'clock, we came to in five fathoms, over a muddy bottom; the Iiland v_ XXIV. Averade bearing north-eaft half north, and Santa Cruz Fort fouth-weft >792-by weft. Early the next morning, we weighed and ftood out of the IO. harbour, and the wind being very light, the jolly-boat was fent a-head to tow the veffel: in the afternoon, a moderate breeze came on from the eaftward. At noon on the 1 j th, the land bore from fouth 570 u, weft, to north 820 weft : the wind being variable, we tacked occasionally. Our latitude was 270 19/ fouth, and the longitude 48° 21' weft. 'Till the 17th, we had light winds, chiefly from the north-eaft quarter, and i7, fine clear weather; the wind then fhifted to the weftward, with frequent fqualls and heavy fhowers of rain. The latitude, at noon, was 29" 27/ fouth, and 41° 14' weft longitude. On the 20th, we bad the (hip well 20. cleaned between decks, and thoroughly waflied with vinegar. The variation of the compafs was 40 40'eafterly. At noon on the 2iff, a >!• fevere fquall came on, attended with thunder, and very heavy rain ; the wind all round the compafs: this occafioned us to clew up the top-fails, and reef the forefail; however, towards evening, the weather growing more moderate we fet the top-fails. Wc opened a cafk of beef on the 22d, which was marked R. H. N" 72, 22. and was received from the commiffary at the victualling-office] Port Jackfon : it contained fixty-fix double pieces, which was four double pieces fliort of the number there ought to have been. During the 23d 23. and 24th, we had light eafterly winds, with intervening calms, and 24. dark cloudy weather, attended with rain. On the 25th, in latitude 260 25. 13/ fouth, and 31" 33' eaft longitude, we found i° 22' eafterly variation ; and on the 27th the variation was oo" 45' wefterly; the latitude being 27. 22° 32' fouth, and the longitude 290 03' weft. I ordered the cables to 5 °e CHA P. XXIV. 1792. February. 28, 29. be hauled up, the tier to be well cleaned, and wafhed with vinegar. The wind now hauled to the weftward, with a moderate breeze and clear weather. On the 28th, the wind fhifted to the northward, and at one o'clock in the morning of the 29th, a very fevere fquall came on from north-north-eaft, attended with heavy rain : foon after day-light, the weather moderated. March. 6. 12. We now had a fettled eafterly wind and fine weather, until the morning of the 6th of March, when the wind blew ftrong and in fqualls, and continued very unfettled till the afternoon of the 7th, when it grew moderate. The latitude was 14° 26' fouth, and the longitude 23° 02' weft. On the 12th, we were in 02' n' fouth latitude, and 25' 16'7 weft longitude, and in the afternoon we faw a fail to the northward; we bore up and fpoke her ; fhe proved to be the Cleopatra, of Bofton, bound to Calcutta. I ordered the jolly-boat to be hoifted out and fent on board her ; at fix o'clock the boat returned, we got her on board, and 16, 18. made fail. From the 16th to the 18th, wc had fqually unfettled weather, attended with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. Our latitude at noon on the 20th, was 08° 45' north, the longitude 30"" 16' weft, and the variation by azimuth 7° 52' weft : the wind blew ftrong from the north-eaft, which occafioned a very high fea. On the 22d, John Miles was punifhed for flceping on his watch, neglect of duty, and contemptuous behaviour. In the morning of the 28th, having a ftrong gale of wind at eaft, we clewed up the fails, and kept the veflel before the fea, whilft the mafts were ftayed, and the rigging fet up ; which being completed, and the weather growing moderate, we made fail. During the forenoon, we faw a deal of gulph weed. Our latitude was 20n 25' north, and the longitude 370 06' weft. 30. 22. 28. On On the lit of April, we muttered the fhip's company, and read the £*JApi articles of war to them: our obfervation at noon, gave 29/ 14' north !--*—\ latitude, the longitude was 39° 05' weft, and the variation of the com- A ^ pafs 07° 45' weft. Ou the 5th, we had 110 04' wefterly variation ; our latitude, at that time, was 350 39' north, and the longitude, by-lunar obfervation, 36° 16'weft. The trade wind had now left us, and we had ftrong breezes generally from the north-weft quarter. The variation, by azimuth, on the 13th, was 22° op'weft ; the latitude at noon 13. being 471 09' north, and the longitude 170 46' weft. In the morning of the 15th, we faw feveral veffels ftanding to the weftward, and at ten i;. o'clock, fpoke a floop from liriftol, bound to Saint Michael's. At fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 17th, we founded andftruck the ground 17. in iixty-five fathoms, over a bottom of fine fand, mixed with black fpecks. Our latitude at noon, on the 19th, was 49" 23', and the Ion- 19. gitude, by lunar obfervation, 6° 56' weft. At four o'clock in the morning of the 20th, wc faw the land, bearing north-north-weft, and 29. at noon the Lizard bore from north-north-eaft, to north-eaft by eaft, five miles diftant. The following particulars, refpecling Norfolk-Island, which comprehend the fubftance of Lieutenant-Governor King's latcft difpatches, being dated the 29th of December, 179 1 ; and which were received the 30th of November 1792, by the William and Anne tranfport, that ought to have touched at Port Jackfon, but was forced by contrary winds to bear away for England. THE wheat harveft at Norfolk-Ifland was finifhed by the ioth of December, 1791 -y when about one thoufand bufhels of wheat were got in, and well thatched in flacks. The Indian corn had fuffered by a feries of dry hot weather ever fince the preceding July. 4 E Lieutenant- Lieutenant-Governor King finding great inconvenience from the fize and conltrudtion of the frame of a flore-houfe, which was 80 feet long by 24 feet wide, as well as from its fituation, it being near the fhore, determined to build one, 40 feet by 24, on the Terrace, at Mount-George : he had alfo found it neceffary to build a goal, oppofite the barrack-yard, and another at Queen thorough. A good road has been made to the landing rock in Cafcade-Bay, fo that now, any thing may be landed with the greatefl fafety. Eighteen copper bolts, fix copper fheets, two fixteen-inch cables, two hundred weight of lead, one fifli-tackle fall, twenty pounds of chalk, three rudder chains, two top-chains, and iron-work of various forts, had been faved from the wreck of the Sirius ; the greatefl part of thefe articles, Lieutenant-Governor King propofed fending to Port Jackfon. Ten fettlers, who lately belonged to the Sirius, were-doing exceedingly well, but there was reafon to fear that .great part of the marine fettlers, when the novelty of their fituation was gone off, would have neither ability nor inclination to improve the portions of ground allotted them : they had already been extremely troublefome, and the lieutenant-governor had been under the neceflity of impofing heavy fines on two; the firft, for beating the watch and ufmg inflammatory language, and the fecond, for cruelly beating a convict woman. The convict fettlers were all doing very well, and were quiet, attentive, and orderly: they were increafed to the number of forty; the whole number of fettlers on the iiland were eighty, and it will be difficult to fix more until the ground is farther cleared, 4 A quantity NORFOLK ISLAND. 579 A ciuantitv of coral and other teflaceous fubflances, with different chap. XXIV. kinds of Hones, were burnt forty-eight hours, and produced a very fine v.—v—>j white lime, much fuperior to any lime made of chalk, and it proved a ll9U very tough cement. Eighteen convicts, under the direction of an overfeer, who is a fettler, were employed in making bricks. A bricklayer was much wanted, a* one who was fent in the Queen, died on the paffage. Lieutenant-Governor King finding it neceffary to difcharge Mr. Doridge, the fuperintendant of convicts at Queeniborough, has appointed Mr. D'arcy Wentworth to fucceed him : Mr. Wentworth had behaved with the greatefl attention and propriety as affiftant-furgeon, which duty he flill continued to difcharge. Mr. W. N. Chapman was appointed ltore-keeper at Phillipiburgh. A corporal and fix privates were itationed in a houfe with a good garden to it, on an eminence commanding Queeniborough, and a ferjeant and ten men were fixed in a fimilar fituation at Phillipiburgh, and they were kept as feparate from the convicts as poflible. The lieutenant-governor had been under the neceflity of appointing a town-adjutant and infpector of out-ports, and he named Lieutenant Abbott for thefe duties; he alfo eftablifhed rules and regulations for the obfervancc of every perfon on the ifland, and for keeping a night-patrole : a deputy provoft-marfhal was alfo appointed. The wreck of the Sirius went to pieces on the ift of January, 1792, and every thing poflible was faved out of her. The fume day, every 4 E 2 Jjerfon ^xxiv*' Per^on on ^e ^anc^ went to a reduced allowance of provifions, but <—■v--' the fifh daily caught was fufficient to ferve all the inhabitants three 17924 times over. January. Some of the fettlers were permitted to employ the convicts as their fervants, on condition of maintaining them without the aid of the public flore; and fome of the convicts were allowed to work for themfelves, on the fame condition. It will be abfolutely neceffary to eftablifh a court of juftice, as corporal punifhments have but little effect; although robberies were confined only to a particular clafs of convicts, and were by no means general. By the 15th of January, two hundred and fixty bufhels of Indian corn were gathered in; a number of acres were then in different ftates of growth, which were likely to yield about three hundred bufhels more. The wheat thralhed well, and yielded plentifully. The granary was finifhed, and every endeavour was ufed to keep the wevil out of it. T H R E E t 58' ] THREE NON-DESCRIPT SHELLS, FROM NEW SOUTH W A ti E S, NOW in THI POSSESSION OF HENRY CONST AN TINE NO WELL, E