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original scientific article	UDC 728.81(497.4Školj)
received: 2015-03-11
ŠKOLJ CASTLE AND ITS ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY
Igor S APAČ
Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za gradbeništvo, prometno inženirstvo in arhitekturo, Oddelek za arhitekturo,
Smetanova ulica 17, SI-2000 Maribor e-mail: igor.sapac@um.si
Juan P. MASCHIO
Kidričevo naselje 1, SI-6230 Postojna e-mail: juan.maschio@projektfeniks.eu
ABSTRACT
On one of the highest rocky ledges above the Reka River, just a few kilometers from Famlje Village and near Škocjan Caves, Školj Castle is today one of the less known castles in Slovenia. For more than a century the castle is abandoned. Until the 19th century it was among the most interesting castles in Carniola because of its picturesque location and architectural design. In this article we present the results of the last architectural history research, based on study of written archive sources, literature, image sources and castle ruins. The results show the castle's importance, that it could be possible and would be necessary to preserve and to restore his remains.
Keywords: Školj, Neukhoffell, Neukofell, Noviscoglio, castle, Rauber, Ravbar, Neuhaus, Rossetti, Dekleva, Johann Weichard Valvasor, Louis François Cassas, Park Škocjanske jame, Architectural conservation, architectural history
CASTELLO ŠKOLJ E LA SUA STORIA ARCHITETTONICA
SINTESI
Su una delle più alte sporgenze rocciose sopra il fiume Timavo, a solo un paio di kilometri del villaggio Famlje e anche dalle Grotte di San Canziano, il castello di Noviscoglio è oggi uno dei castelli meno conosciuti della Slovenia. Il castello è stato abbandonato per più di un secolo. Fino il XIX secolo, il castello si trovava tra i castelli più interessanti della Carniola a causa della sui pittoreschi dintorni e la sua architettura. In questo articolo, presentiamo i risultati dell'ultima ricerca architettonica e storica, basata sullo studio di fonti scritte d'archivio, letteratura, pitture ed immagini e anche sulle stesse rovine dell'castello. I risultati dimostrano l'importanza di questo castello, e la necesità e anche possibilità di preservare e ripristinare le sue rovine.
Parole chiave: Školj, Neukhoffell, Neukofell, Noviscoglio, castello, Rauber, Ravbar, Neuhaus, Rossetti, Dekleva, Johann Weichard Valvasor, Louis François Cassas, Park Škocjanske jame, restauro dei monumenti architettonici,
storia dell'architettura
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Figure 1: Skolj's first depiction, view from north side, made approximately around 1678. Taken from Valvasor's sketches book (Valvasor, 2001, 184)
Slika 1: Prva upodobitev gradu Školj s severne strani okoli leta 1678 v Valvasorjevi skicni knjigi (Valvasor, 2001, 184)
Built on one of the highest cliffs of Reka's River canyon, just a few kilometres from Famlje Village and inside the limits that define Skocjan Park's region we find Skolj Castle, one of the less known castles in Slovenia (cf. Vo-dopivec et al., 2015). For more than a century, the castle has been abandoned and left to his own luck in middle of a wild context, exposed to unfavourable factors, while at the same time the population density in the area has considerably decreased. Until the 19th century it was one of the most interesting castles in Carniola. Skolj's oldest depiction appears in Johann Weichard Valvasor's greatest work: Die Ehre defc Herzogthums Crain (The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola), more precisely at the
end of the 17th century; unlike most of the other castles, Skolj has the privilege to be depicted not in one but in two engraving depictions, fact that tells us that in some way the castle caught Valvasor's attention. Maybe because he was a very close friend to its owner Giovanni Francesco Rossetti or just maybe for its unique strategical context.1 Valvasor indicates that its German, Italian and Carniolan names come from its singular location over sharp rocks, which in Carniolan language are named »skolji«.2 In the following lines, he writes that on one side of the castle there was a small plain covered with rocks and on the other there is a »horribly deep abyss« where it flows Reka's water, from where after a quarter
1	Its first depiction approximately from 1678, drawn with ink is preserved at the Metropolitan Library in Zagreb. This reproduction has been published in the book: Valvasor, 2001, 184-185. The book contains the first field sketches that later and with more production became Valvasor's famous engravings published in Topography of the Duchy of Carniola (Valvasor, 1679, 161-162), and The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola (Valvasor, 1689, XI, 402-403; Valvasor, 2009-2014, XI, 402-403).
2	Within various sources and literature the castle is also known as Neukhoffell, Neuhof, Novoscoglio, Noviscoglio, Na skolu, Naskoli and Skolj.
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Figure 2: Skolj's Ground floor with possible rooms demarked (J. P. Maschio)
Slika 2: Tloris pritličja gradu Školj z označenimi posameznimi stavbnimi deli (J. P. Maschio)
of hour disappears inside a cliff at Skocjan Village and then it changes its name to Timav River (Valvasor, 1689, XI, 403; Valvasor, 2009-2014, XI, 403). At the end of the 18th century, the French artist Louis François Cassas portrayed it in one his aquarelles.3 Later in 1802, Joseph Lavallée made a reproduction of Cassas' water-colors using engraving techniques and published them in the book Voyage pittoresque et historique de Llstrie et de la Dalmatie (Lavallée, 1802). In this book, Skolj is placed among Predjama Castle and other remarkable attractions. At the end of the 19th century, Skolj was totally unoccupied, in ruins and almost forgotten. On a drawing made by G. De Franceschi before 1895, we can see that the castle had already suffered an advanced degradation process (Caprin, 1895, 138). During the 20th century we could barely find a paragraph about Skolj. Among them the most important are in the books I cas-
telli del Carso medioevale and Reka Timav (Foscan, Vec-chiet, 1985, 62; Foscan, 1990, 153). In 2007 the castle for the first time was comprehensively presented by Igor Sapac in a book about castles along Reka River (Sapac, 2007, 158-171). In 2012, it began a new investigation when Juan Pablo Eugenio Maschio wrote about Skolj Castle in his final thesis and also offered a possible restoration project while finishing his studies at Trieste's faculty of Architecture - Facoltà di architettura, Universita degli studi di Trieste (Maschio, 2013). Later he began Projekt Feniks - Gradovi se prebujajo, in which he performs a deeper research by searching and compiling each piece of information, local stories, blueprints, old depictions, archaeological findings and under the codename FKS01-SK he achieves to create a precise 3d reconstruction model of the castle.4 The collected information allows an exactly reconstruction of the whole
3	Louis François Cassas' watercolor (1 782) shows Skolj Castle from Reka's River canyon in a romantic way. The original is at Victoria & Albert Museum in London. It was published in the book: Keckemet, 1978. In 1 839 Johann Wilhelm Kraus reproduced Cassas' depiction with a similar depiction named Das Schloss Novoscoglio am Ruecca Thale. This depiction is preserved in Eesti Kunstimuuseum in Tallinn, Estonia.
4	In 2013 Projekt Feniks published the first 3d reconstruction images of the castle. In 2015, after three years of investigation, finally presents Skolj's final images to the people at Famlje Village.
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Figure 3: 3d study comparison between the original castle and its remainings (J.P. Maschio) Slika 3: Tridimenzionalni prikaz razvalin gradu Školj z nakazanimi porušenimi deli (J. P. Maschio)
complex, as it was before its gradual collapse in the 19th century. In this article we'd like to present the results of this architectural research.
Nowadays and maybe with a couple of trees more, the site still looks as Valvasor and Cassas depicted it. Školj remains are still standing stunningly on its cliff, while Reka's River powerfully flows through the canyon towards Škocjan Caves abyss. There are only 2 accesses to the castle, one of them is a small dirt road heading from Brežec pri Divači Village (northwest) and the other is a dirt road that comes from Famlje Village and leads through the Famlje Forest. As we approach to Školj, the road already conserves its old stone pavement covered with dirt and grass. On one side of the road is still standing a protection wall against Burja wind and on the other we can find the old blackberries trees planted by them. The road ends in front of the castle's gate, where despite the leafy vines we can still recognize both Školj's famous towers. Once upon a time, these towers gave the castle its identity, today they just are the echo of its golden days. On the northeast, the round tower had three floors, it was the tallest and the most dominant volume in the whole complex. Crowned by defensive corbels, that had machicolations between them and a wooden roof covered with barrel roof tiles. Cassas draw-
5 Sample pictures: CM Trieste; INDOK; ZVKDS OE Nova Gorica.
ing shows that the castle had its crown and its wooden roof as well until the end of 18th century. On the ground floor the walls are 1,85 m thick and still could be seen three old Renaissance firing loopholes that confirm that both towers have been built during the 16th century. The other floors were illuminated by rectangular windows well protected with iron bars. These windows had simple stone frames, crowned with ornamental chapiters.5 After Skolj was abandoned, the local people took these elements and used them to build or to decorate their homes. Each floor's structure was a simple structure made with wooden beams, connected by wooden stairs. The square tower was more modest, originally it had three floors like the round tower, but lately his height was reduced by demolishing one floor. Today there are only his 1,3 m thick ground floor walls preserved. Unlike the round tower, the square tower had only one Renaissance firing loophole and a secret one beside the main entrance which it looks just like a small hole in the wall. Between both towers there is the curtain wall with three firing loopholes. There are some traces exactly in the middle of the wall that show the older access gate, symmetrically situated between the firing loopholes; later it has been walled and cancelled. Beside the traces of the first gate and below the central loopholes, there are
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_.___
Figure 4: Skolj's eastern façade and Reka's canyon, taken around 1890. (CGEB, Trieste, 058-036) Slika 4: Razvaljena vzhodna grajska fasada z dolino Reke okoli leta 1890 (CGEB, Trieste, 058-036)
holes that supported a wooden drawbridge. On its Renaissance phase the castle had a protective moat. Once we pass through the gate we access to the main courtyard. Beside the round tower the castle had a cistern; nowadays there is just a hole, surrounded by a bigger oval hole, digged and reinforced with a stone wall two decades ago. The cistern's inner stones and its well are preserved in the courtyard of "pri Cemparjevih" house in Dolnje Vreme. It has been brought there by the Dekle-va family in the late 19th century, as part of a marriage dowry (Svetina, 1992, 211-212). The cistern's "crown" has engraved probably its date of construction: 1569.6 Valvasor's depiction shows that the cistern was covered with a wooden structure.
The main courtyard was surrounded by three buildings with different sizes and heights. The main core was
Figure 5 and 6: 3d structural study of southern and eastern wings in the 18th century (J.P. Maschio) Sliki 5 in 6: Tridimenzionalni strukturni prikaz južnega in vzhodnega trakta v 18. stoletju (J. P. Maschio)
Skolj's biggest section and it had two wings; on the eastern and southern side. In this representative part of the complex were the living rooms of the castle owners and the castle chapel. The eastern and southern façade are relatively well preserved.
6 The engraved date is very difficult to read. Juan P. Maschio managed to discover it during his investigations in 2013. We can find the same type of well at the nearby Prem Castle. At Švarcenek Castle there was an similar well with Petazzi's coat of arms; today it is in Sežana. A similar well is also preserved in Tomaj (Kosovelova domačija).
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\
Figure 7:3d structural roof study of the whole castle complex in the 18th century (J.P. Maschio) Slika 7: Tridimenzionalni strukturni prikaz grajskega ostrešja v 18. stoletju (J. P. Maschio)
On the southern façade is still possible to see walled windows and remains one of the last corbels that supported the toilet. The main access to the southern wing was in its west façade. The eastern wing had three floors, which were supported by several stone corbels. The wooden beams and the wooden floor disappeared but there is still a small beam piece conserved inside of one of the remaining walls. The mortar used to build this wing has an outstanding performance and is compact and solid. The used lime is of an excellent quality and it was mixed with an exact combination of fine sand. There are no pieces of clay masonry used to level the stones all like floor tiles or roof tiles within the joints. The ground floor of the eastern wing was forty centimetres lower than the main courtyard and it could be accessed through a loggia with three stone arches, which are nowadays preserved only in their foundations. The
7 Beside Reka River, Školj had its own watermill.
floors could be reached through stone stairs; their remains are preserved at the junction between the eastern and southern wing. This stairs were the only connection between the eastern and the southern wing and ended in a wide loggia with arcades and columns on the courtyard-side of the eastern wing. On the western side of the courtyard, at the edge of Reka's canyon, there was a stud or horse stable. It was a small volume, with only a few and small windows, two floors and a straw-thatched roof. The ground floor of this building was a shelter for farm animals and horses, the first floor has been used for saving the grain.7 It had accesses from both sides, through the northern access it was connected with the main courtyard and through the southern access with the south or second courtyard. Above the entrance on the well preserved south façade there are two rectangular windows with stone frames. Between the stable and
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Figure 8: Skolj's ruins with the round and square tower around 1900. (CGEB, Trieste, 083-004) Slika 8: Razvaline gradu Školj z okroglim in oglatim stolpom okoli leta 1900 (CGEB, Trieste, 083-004)
Figures 9 and 10: Školj's cistern's "crown", conserved in »pri Čemparjevih« house's courtyard in Dolnje Vreme and its engraved year 1569 (J.P. Maschio 2013)
Sliki 9 in 10: Krona cisterne z gradu Školj na dvorišču hiše "pri Čemparjevih" v Dolnjih Vremah in vklesana letnica 1569 na njej (J. P. Maschio, 2013)
the square tower there was a small service place that connected both volumes. Valvasor's depiction shows a small object supported with corbels. Between the stable and the southern wing of the castle there is a small door that still connects both courtyards. The southern or second courtyard had never been enclosed by walls until the 20th century, as it shows Cassas. It seems that the
painter took the liberty to depict a tall curtain wall, with big medieval merlons to beautify the picture and to give Skolj a romantic aspect. Neither Valvasor nor De Franceschi show this enclosure wall. The same was probably built by the one of the last owners, Marjan Vitez, on his intention to demark his property and maybe because he intended to reconstruct Cassas' romantic image to give
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Figure 11: Skolj's eastern façade in the 18th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J.P. Maschio) Slika 11: Vzhodna fasada gradu Školj v 18. stoletju. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
Figure 12: Školj's southern and western façades in the 18th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J.P. Maschio) Slika 12: Južna in zahodna stran gradu Školj v 18. stoletju. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
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Figure 13: Hypothetical reconstruction of both towers during their construction process (J.P. Maschio) Slika 13: Grajska stolpa med gradnjo. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
the castle a medieval aspect.8 We could confirm this because the mortar used is based on modern cement and between the stones we found pieces of modern French roof tiles.
It is difficult to determine exactly when Skolj Castle was built. It is not mentioned in medieval written sources.9 The main medieval castles in the area were
Švarcenek, Prem, Novi grad, Senožeče, Devin, Karstberk, Postojna and Rašpor.10 The location of Školj Castle was from the 12th century until the first half of the 16th century part of the Senožeče Dominion. This dominion was till 1399 possessed by the Lords of Duino, after that till 1472 by the Walsee family and finally by the Habsburg family (Kos, 1954, 51, 202; Sapač, 2005, 130-132;
8	On his intention to beautify the image, Cassas has not only added elements to the depiction, but he also wanted to magnify Skolj's size by drawing smaller windows and also increasing the number of windows.
9	Some authors uncritically wrote about Skolj's medieval origins (cf. Foscan, Vecchiet, 1985, 62; Foscan, 1990, 153; Štupar Šumi, 1996, 3 77; Jakič, 1997, 329). There are no proofs for these statements. Some authors based their theory of the origin of the medieval castle on a latin inscription on the stone panel above the portal of Our lady of Mercy's gothic chapel in Lokev Village; they interpreted the inscription as: ANNO DOMINI MCCCCXXVI HOC OPUS FECIT EIERL ERHARDUS IV VOM SCOLCUM ADIUTORIO VICINORUM (In the year of our Lord 1426, this work has been executed by Erhard IV from Skolj with the help of the local people) (Kjuder, 1959, 17). Newer investigations explained the true meaning of the inscription, refuting the previous study. Aldo Messina has translated it and exposed a different meaning: Anno d(omi)ni M cccc xx vi / hoc opus fecit fieri er /hardus cwe(r)g(ene)ci /in hono(rem) /S(an)c(t)or(um) om(n) i(um) cu(m) audiutorio / vicinor(um). Finally the inscription's meaning would be, that Erhard from Švarcenek constructed in 1426 the chapel with help of the local people (Messina, 2003, 206-207; Peskar, 2005, 1 72, 220-222). Božo Premrl also solved the inscription but in a different version: Anno D(omi)ni MCCCCXXVI. / hoc opus fecit fieri Er- /hardus Swebzel in hono(rem) / S(an)c(t)or(um) o(mn) i(u)m cu(m) adiutorio / vicinor(um). According to Premrl the chapel was built by Erhard Swebzel. The inscription does not offer more information about who was Erhard (Premrl, 2007, 60). In any case, Erhard cannot be related with Skolj Castle.
10	For more information about the history of medieval castles in this region: Kos, 2005.
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Figure 14: Skolj's Southern façade in the 18th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J.P. Maschio) Slika 14: Južna fasada gradu Školj v 18. stoletju. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
Bajt, Vidic, 2011, 68-69, 98).11 On the other side of Reka River was the Švarcenek Dominion, whose medieval owners were the Counts of Gorizia. We could deduce that there wasn't any bigger building on this site before the 15th century and that the fortified phase of Školj with its towers was raised in the 16th century. It could probably have existed a smaller non fortified mansion during the late medieval age and it could have been property of Senožeče Dominion. We could speculate about an older construction, that has been destroyed by the earthquake in 1511 or maybe it has been damaged during the Turkish invasions, but there is no evidence. Till today we couldn't find any medieval written source or masonry structure.
Johann Weichard Valvasor mentions an older fortress at the location of the castle. This building served as a shelter for the local people and their most valuable possessions when the enemies attacked the region (Valvasor, 1689, XI, 404; Valvasor, 2009-2014, XI, 404). It is unlikely that this fortress really stood on the loca-
tion of the Skolj Castle, because in a radius of less than two kilometres, there are two potential ruins that could have been this fortress. The first is Stari grad (Old castle), situated just above Famlje Village; it was a primitive fortress-settlement built between the late bronze age and the beginning of the iron age.12 The second is Tabor Skoflje - a medieval fortress, situated above Skoflje Village on top of Tabor Hill.13 Was Skolj once upon a time a »tabor«14 as well? We should ask different questions to answer this mystery: why there is no older masonry structure or some trace that could tell us about material recycling? If a tabor is used to be an enclosed fortress, why there are no traces of older foundations? If there was just a tower, why there are no traces strategically built on the cliff's most prominent edge as we could see with different tabors such as Po-vir, Podpec among others?
If we look Valvasor's depictions or if we look at the ruins, the main core looks like an perfect "L" building from the same period, but if we make focus on the
11	From 13 70 until 1430 belonged the southern part of the Senožeče Dominion to the Counts of Celje who had at that time also the Postojna Dominion (Bajt, Vidic, 2011, 74, 88).
12	Register nepremične kulturne dediščine Republike Slovenije: EŠD 7270, Famlje - Arheološko območje Stari grad.
13	Register nepremične kulturne dediščine Republike Slovenije: EŠD 7314, Škofije - Arheološko najdišče Tabor.
14	Tabor (fortified camp) is a relatively common element in Slovene place names and refers to a fortified area, usually on a hilltop but sometimes also narrow valleys or cliffs with caves, where the population could withdraw to shelter from Ottoman raids. This kind of fortification began to appear in the last third of the 15th century, most of them have been built in the first half of the 16th century (cf. Sapač, 2011; Sapač, 2012, 113-149).
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Figure 15: Skolj's Northern façade with both Renaissance towers from the 16th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J.P. Maschio)
Slika 15: Severna stran gradu z renesančnima stolpoma iz 16. stoletja. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
blueprints, we could appreciate that both wings seem not to be correctly connected one to the other and it can be divided in two different segments. The eastern wing has a perfect orientation respecting to the solar path, this could be another factor that confirms this as the oldest part of the castle and that it has been built before the southern wing. Although both wings have the same height they are different, their width and length are not equal, and the walls in the eastern wing do not join perpendicularly as they do in the southern wing. If we pay attention to the connection between them, we can see that the stairs are the only connective element. If we compare the floor levels in both wings, we could appreciate that there is a big difference between them, so we are talking about two different constructions. Analyzing the materials used in the construction, we can see that the stones used in the ground floor of the southern wing are similar to those used in the eastern wing. The ground floor has smaller and even more irregular stones, we can also find a lot of small pieces of brick and roof tiles that served to fill the gaps between the stones. Before we wrote that in the eastern wing there are no pieces of brick, roof tiles, so we can clearly dif-
ference both parts and date them separately along the time. The mortar used to build this floor has a really poor quality, this could be confirmed also because of the southern wing advanced state of ruin. In the eastern wing there are extension stones that served as a connection in the joint between both wings. This reveals a clear intention of joining both parts since the beginning, so this could be interpreted as both wings were built during the same period, but the difference of materials between floors in the southern wing, show that the first floor was built later. So it is probable that the ground floor of the southern section was built as a service area and later they completed the wing by building the first floor.15 The southern wing was completed before the loggia on the courtyard-side of the eastern wing was erected. This loggia no longer exists; it connected both wings, the stairs and the round tower. On the north side of the loggia was a small chapel.16 According to Valvasor's depiction the chapel was on the first floor. It was a squared room which could be accessed through two doors; one headed to the loggia and the other to the round tower. The chapel was lighted up by a small window which faced west direction and it was oriented to the main courtyard.
15	The same constructive process it could be seen at Prem Castle the main core there are extension stones that were never used
16	The chapel is in written sources mentioned in 1694 and 1782
(Sapac, 2007, 128). A similar example is Orehek Castle near Postojna; on to complete an expansion. (Hofler, 2001, 188).
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The chapel's altar was on the east side and it had a small statue of St. Anthony the Abbot.17
Valvasor wrote that Školj once belonged to the Rauber von Plankenstein family and that they renewed the castle, but that later they have exchanged it for another castle with the Neuhaus family. He also wrote that later they have further improved the castle, transforming it into a beautiful noble residence (Valvasor, 1689, XI, 404; Valvasor, 2009-2014, XI, 404). On the basis of the studied architectural features and on Valvasor's statements it is possible to make two hypotheses.
The first hypothesis assumes that the castle was completely built under Renaissance architecture period in the 16th century. Based on Boris Golec's recent studies about the Rauber family it is possible to conclude that the Renaissance castle was built by Cosma Rauber (Kozma Ravbar), Johann Weichard Valvasor's greatgrandfather and reconstructor of the Krumperk Castle near Domžale. The first Raubers who wore the nobility title »von Plankenstein und Carlstetten«, were the brothers Leonhart and Nicolaus, they were invested with this predicate, which came from two of their properties in Lower Austria, in 1516 by the emperor Maximilian I. In the middle of the 16th century Leonhart's grandson, Wolf Dietrich Rauber died and with him this branch of the family. His cousin Cosma started to use »von Plankenstein und Carlstetten« title unofficially. Later, on the 3rd of December 1562, the emperor Ferdinand I gave Cosma the privilege to use his cousin's coat of arms. At the beginning Cosma lived in Krajevk Castle in Dolenjska Region and in Krumperk Castle as well. In 1513 his grandfather Balthasar Rauber had Krumperk castle among his properties, he also owned Kravjek Castle since 1478. Balthasar's son, Friedrich Rauber, married Katarina Lamberg in 1524 and they had two sons, Cosma and Adam. Unfortunately is mentioned that Katarina became a widow already before 1529 but she stayed in Krumperk. Valvasor's great-grandfather Cosma Rauber was born around 1525. Later, when he lost his father, Georg Lamberg from Crnelo Castle, one of his mother's relatives, became his protector and in 1547 he also organized his wedding. Cosma was a very powerful and influential man in Carniola. Among other he was the provincial administrator of Carniola, counselor of the emperor Ferdinand and the archduke Karl as well. In his last years he lived in Krumperk, where he built a new renaissance castle between 1575 and 1580, exactly on the same site where once stood an old medieval mansion.18 He is buried in the parish church in Dob near Domžale among his first and second wives (Golec, 2013, 234237). Based on Valvasor's report about the Rauber von
Plankenstein family and the renaissance architectural features it is possible to conclude, that Školj Castle was built by Cosma Rauber in the middle of 16th century; Školj was created as a fortified center of the new Školj Dominion, which was formed with the independence of the southern part of the Senožeče Dominion; this was from the first half of the 16th century to the end of the 16th century owned by the Lamberg family.19 The formation of the new Školj Dominion was certainly connected with important familial ties between Lamberg and Rauber families or more exactly between Georg Lamberg and Cosma Rauber. We may suppose, that Cosma Rauber began to build Školj Castle after his first wedding in 1547 and that he transferred it after the death of his second wife, Salome Neuhaus. According to Valvasor's report, it seems that he transferred the (unfinished?) castle to his second wife's relatives, the family Neuhaus around 1569 when Neuhaus are mentioned to be owners of Školj.20 It seems that Cosma Rauber built a new residence at Krumperk which was closer to the provincial capital as a substitute for Školj along the seventies of the 16th century.
The second hypothesis assumes that the core's eastern wing was built before the 16th century as a late medieval mansion. According to Valvasor's report it could be possible that the Rauber member he names, was Nicolaus Rauber von Plankenstein und Carlstetten (+ 1482), one of both brothers who were the first to use the predicate. He was Trieste's captain and governor from 1473 to 1483 when his son Kaspar Rauber assumed his position. The Rauber family was very powerful in this region during the second half of the 15th century, they owned a lot of properties in the area and they governed with cruelty following Frederik III orders. Rauber family owned among other properties the Kleinhausel Castle (Mali grad) in Planina and around 1460 Nicolaus Rauber reconstructed this castle (Sapač, 2005, 68-78). According to local stories which have been passing from generation to generation on each village in the area, compiled by Jasna Majda Peršolja in the book Škocjanski kaplanci, most of the stories that narrate about Školj's owners, tell that Rauber lord was very cruel and heartless. He used to steal people's belongings and he used inhuman methods to show his authority such as to bury alive people in a cave near the castle (Peršolja, 2006, 108-114). It seems that these descriptions are closer to Nicolaus' features and behaviour rather than Kozma's moods. This hypothesis is not based only on local stories but it is also based in the investigation of the materials used in the different wings of the castle, their progressive collapse stages and the constructive differences.
17	The sculpture is still preserved on the left altar in Sv. Kancijan Church at the nearby Škocjan Village. When the chapel's roof collapsed, the statue mysteriously survived; the local villagers considered a miracle, so they took with the priest's approval the old statue to Sv. Kancjan Church at Škocjan (Peršolja, 2006, 108, 109, 114).
18	Regarding Krumperk Castle: Stopar, 1997, 100-102.
19	Regarding Lamberg family and Senožeče: Smole, 1982, 438; Dolenc, 1994, 21; Sapač, 2005, 132.
20	In 1569 Anndre von Neuhauss zu Neukhoffl is mentioned (Jakič, 1997, 329).
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Figure 16: The main courtyard with the arcaded loggia in front of the eastern wing at the end of the 17th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J.P. Maschio)
Slika 16: Glavno grajsko dvorišče z arkadno galerijo pred vzhodnim traktom konec 17. stoletja. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Maschio)
No clay elements could be find at all within the stone joints on the eastern wing. Roof tiles, floor tiles elements were often used to level and to fill the gaps between the stones during the 16th and 17th centuries, this produces inhomogeneous walls that exposed to weather conditions are more likely to collapse faster than older constructions. According to this theory, Skolj's southern wing was built during the 16th century as an extension of the older mansion, dividing the site in two different parts, creating a new Renaissance enclosed courtyard. It could have been influenced by the near Prem Castle and its style. If we study Prem's evolution and if we compare it with the different constructive stages, we could see that at the beginning Prem also had a single rectangular wing core and that later the core was expanded with a perpendicular wing. Although Prem was built earlier and it is bigger than Skolj Castle, it could have been a possible influence in Skolj's evolution. Later the Rauber family fortified Skolj with its characteristic towers, the moat and the curtain wall.
The renaissance Skolj Castle was definitely erected before 1569, when Anndre von Neuhauss zu Neukhoffl
is mentioned and when the dated stone crown of its cistern was made. At that time it's both towers and the curtain wall were already standing. According to Valv-asor's report it could be possible that the Neuhaus family built the southern wing and that they so expanded the older eastern wing. The Neuhaus family owned the castle one century. After the death of Johann Wilhelm Neuhaus (+ 1668) in 1669 Giovanni Battista De Leo, an important patrician from Trieste, very well-known lawyer and captain of that area, bought Skolj and other important properties, and rented the castle to Andre Daniel Mordax (Smole, 1982, 31 7).21 Around 1675 Giovanni Francesco Rossetti (+ 1711) bought the castle and begun to transform it into a comfortable residence. He was the owner of Skolj at the time when Valvasor has written The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola. At that time Giovanni Francesco Rossetti was also the owner of the nearby manors Skulje near Postojna and Rozenek in the upper Vipava valley (Sapac, 2005, 165-169; Sapac, 2008, 58-72).
Valvasor's depiction shows that Giovanni Francesco Rossetti has started to renew the whole castle around
21 This information contradicts Valvasor's report; he mentions that baron Rossetti already was its owner since 1669 (Valvasor, 1689, XI, 403-404; Valvasor, 2009-2014, XI, 403). Valvasor does not mention other owners rather than Raubers, Neuhaus and Rossetties. Probably the Neuhaus family after selling Skolj kept a part of land in this area, in fact, they were still owners of Strane manor beside Reka River until the 18th century (Smole, 1982, 463-464; Sapac, 2007, 150-151).
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Figure 17: Pyramidal obelisks in front of the main gate in the 18th century. Hypothetical reconstruction (J. P. Maschio)
Slika 17: Piramidasta obeliska pred glavnim grajskim portalom v 18. stoletju. Poskus rekonstrukcije (J. P. Mas-chio)
1675. This renovation had its peak in 1678 when Valvasor was preparing The Topography of the Modern Duchy of Carniola. Skolj's first sketches, show the apparently renewal plan before it was concluded (cf. Mislej, 1981, 32). Valvasor's sketches show a wooden structure in the corridor that connected both wings. On Trost's final engravings, it could still be seen the defensive moat, but a small stone bridge has replaced the original wooden drawbridge, and the wooden structure in the corridor has been replaced with a renaissance loggia. The southern wing got a new courtyard façade with bigger windows and renaissance chapiters above the windows' frames.22
When Giovanni Francesco Rossetti died in 1711 without descendants, inherited the castle his nephew Giovanni Marco Antonio Rossetti and after him in 1748 passed the castle to his son Karl Leopold (Carlo Leopoldo) Rossetti (+ 1784) (Smole, 1982, 317; Sapac, 2008, 58-72). Probably between 1711 and 1784 the castle re-
ceived its last retouches. The moat disappeared and so the old stone bridge, instead they fill the moat with dirt and they plant the famous blackberries trees that still could be seen at the entrance of the complex. In front of the squared tower it could be seen which maybe it could be a part of the moat still or maybe are the remains of an old garden.23 Later the Rossetti family build a protective wall against burja wind and they paved the road that leads from Famlje to Školj. They also modify its surroundings and they plant a Baroque garden outside the complex's new walls.24 The protective walls had 2 main accesses demarked with small iron gates, with pyramidal obelisks on each side and one small access with stairs.25 Cassas' watercolour shows that before 1782 they have probably changed the main core's and the round tower's roof slopes and maybe on this final intervention they reduce the square tower's height by demolishing its second floor.
In 1784 inherited the castle Bernhard Anton Maria Vincenz Freiherr von Rossetti zu Roseneck, Karl Leopold's son and governor of Trieste (Smole, 1982, 317; Sapač, 2008, 58-72). The military map of the last third of the 18th century, marks the castle as still solidly built (Rajšp, 1997, 144, sek. 210). In 1809 Bernhard Rossetti sold Školj together with the manors Razdrto, Orehek and Roženek and Šilentabor castle ruins to Matija Dolenc, the owner of the post services of the Notranjska Region and Sežana Town. Soon after the surveying for the cadastre made by Emperor of Austria Francis I orders in 1822, for lack of maintenance the castle loosed its baroque garden (SI AS 176/A/A28/g/A05). The land registry records of 1825 wrote that the castle was still nicely preserved. In 1829 the castle was published for sale.26 In 1834 Matija Dolenc sold Školj to his son Anton Dolenc, owner of Razdrto's post services. The same year Anton Dolenc sold Školj Castle and Razdrto Manor to his brother Leopold Dolenc (Smole, 1982, 317). The lack of information makes difficult to tell if Matija Dolenc or his sons have restored Školj as they have restored Roženek Manor (Sapač, 2008, 70).
After the end of feudalism in the Austrian Empire in 1848, as most of other traditional feudal symbols in the Slovenian lands and for the lack of money for maintaining the castles, Školj began rapidly to deteriorate. Imediately after the first half of the 19th century, the castle is abandoned and its destiny left to nature's actions. The surrounding area also faced the same fate and soon its population considerably decreased (cf. Postojinsko okrajno glavarstvo, 1889, 144). This last period is as dark as the history of Školj's first years; we don't know if its owner died without leaving any inheritors nor testa-
22	Compare old photographs of Skolj in: CGEB Trieste; CM Trieste.
23	Compare Valvasor's engravings.
24	Nowadays we could still see its rectangular trace.
25	The stairs could still be seen in the ruins.
26	Intelligenzblatt zur Laibacher Zeitung, 6. 10. 1829, 547 (http://www.dlib.si/details/URN:NBN:SI:doc-P3IDOB7U).
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Figure 18: Skolj's core, round and square tower from northeastern side, 1909 (CMSA, Trieste, F 003902) Slika 18: Školi z razvalinami grajskega jedra in obema stolpoma iz severovzhodne strani leta 1909 (CMSA, Trieste, F 003902)
ment. An article in the Blätter aus Krain newspaper is probably the first document to register the sad destiny of the castle in the second half of the 19th century. It describes how farmers used the castle as a stable for cattle or shelter for animals. The only part not used it was the squared tower which still conserved its roof.27 Several times Skolj has been published for sale, especially in the Blätter aus Krain and Laibacher Zeitung newspapers. After being in sale for a longer time, in 1885 Janez Dekleva from Vremski Britof buys the castle. According to the local stories, the last Dolenc left the castle as a gift to Famlje Village, but as he didn't leave any testament and most of the people could neither read nor write except for Dekleva, who eventually acquired the property. In 1891, his son Maks Dekleva buys the property (cf. Ziberna, 1981, 50; Smole, 1982, 317; Zakrajsek, 1990; Foscan, 1990, 153; Svetina, 1992, 211-212). In the last
quarter of the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th century Skolj ruins served as a quarry from where local people used to take its most valuated objects and stones. Only a few shaped stones were found in the ruins, most of them were used to wall up old windows and after a long time they fell from their place, or they just were buried. The depiction by G. De Franceschi in Giuseppe Caprin's book Alpi Giulie, printed in 1895, shows the castle's advanced state of degradation; the core has lost its roof and the southeastern angle has disappeared as well as the connective wing between the eastern wing and the round tower. The round tower has also lost the roof and even its defensive crown, for nor corbels can be seen; they may have been taken by local people to use them in their houses. Most of the southern wing was conserved until the roof floor.28 The stable still had its thatch roof.29 A similar thatch roof could be
27	Blätter aus Krain. Beilage zur Laibacher Zeitung, 24. 10. 1863, 167 (http://www.dlib.si/details/URN:NBN:SI:doc-ZRLQP1OF).
28	The ruins of Školj Castle at the beginning of the 20th century are well documented on photos of unknown authors, discovered by Juan P. Maschio during his investigations in Civici Musei di Storia ed Arte di Trieste (CM; Fototeca) and Commissione Grotte Eugenio Boegan (CGEB), Trieste (Catasto fotográfico). Civici Musei di Storia ed Arte: Noviscoglio visto da Nord-Est in 1909 (CMSA_F_003902); Noviscoglio visto da Nord-Est (CMSA_F_006829); Noviscoglio visto da Sud-Est (CMSA_F_006828); Noviscoglio visto da Nord-Est (CMSA_F_005590). Catasto fotografico della Commissione Grotte Eugenio Boegan: NOVISCOGLIO PRESSO S. CANZIANO, 1900 (Album: 083, Foto: 012); S. CANZIANO - NOVISCOGLIO, 1900 (Album: 083, Foto: 004); S. CANZIANO - NOVISCOGLIO, 1900 (Album: 083, Foto: 003); S. CANZIANO - NOVISCOGLIO, 1900 (Album: 067, Foto: 013); S. CANZIANO - NOVISCOGLIO, 1890? (Album: 058, Foto: 036).
29	The stable conserved its roof till the second world war, as it shows a picture on a postcard from that time: Postcard with the inscription CAVE AUREMIANE - Rovina Novi Scoglio, dated 25. 11. 1940 (Collector: Božidar Premrl).
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Figure 19: Školj ruins from southeastern side around 1900 (CGEB, Trieste, 083-003)
Slika 19: Razvaline gradu z jugovzhodne strani okoli leta 1900 (CGEB, Trieste, 083-003)
Figure 20: Školj ruins from northwestern side around 1900 (CGEB, Trieste, 067-013)
Slika 20: Razvaline gradu s severozahodne strani okoli leta 1900 (CGEB, Trieste, 067-013)
found in Jakopinov skedenj (Jakopin's barn) in Škocjan (Belingar, 2001, 28-31).30 After the collapse of its roof in the first half of the 20th century, the stable began its degradation process as the rest of the surrounding buildings in the complex. The only object that conserved its roof until the seventies of the 20th century was the square tower (cf. Kunaver, 1966, 12; Krajevni leksikon Slovenije, 1968, 311).
After ninety-nine years the Dekleva family sells Školj in 1984 to Marijan Vitez from Divača, who later moved to Medvode (cf. Žiberna, 1981, 50; Zakrajšek,
Figure 21: Renaissance stove tile fragment from Školj Castle (Sabina Pugelj, 2012)
Slika 21: Ostanek renesančne figuralne pečnice z gradu Školj (Sabina Pugelj, 2012)
1990; Foscan, 1990, 153; Svetina, 1992, 211-212). He buys the castle with the intention of reconstructing the building and to transform it into a restaurant. He builds a small cottage in the main courtyard with the idea of saving his tools but also to have a small place to spend the night while working. This is the only building erected in 20th century inside the whole complex. He also reconstructed a part of the square tower walls and plastered parts of them with concrete. In different parts of the castle he made repairs with cement. We can deduce that he raised the low exterior wall in the second courtyard. Marijan Vitez died in 1995 of a heart attack and thereafter his daughter Tadeja Vitez inherites the castle (cf. Jakič, 1997, 329). Because of its importance, from 1996 the castle is protected by the law inside the Park Škocjanske jame (Škocjan Caves Park) and it is considered as cultural heritage.31 Together with other cultural heritage in the area of Škocjan Caves Park it received the highest cultural monument status. Nevertheless, during the last years Školj has considerately deteriorated. After 2006 important parts of the south
30	Jakopin's barn it is very similar to Školj's stable. It was built before 1819 and it has been reconstructed in 1999 by Park Škocjanske jame. Nowadays it is one of the most important buildings inside the Park for it is one of the last barns well conserved in the area.
31	Zakon o regijskem parku Škocjanske jame (ZRPSJ), Uradni list Republike Slovenije, št. 57/96, 19. 10. 1996.
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façade have collapsed.32 Until 2015 important parts of both towers have been lost forever. There are a lot of critical parts that just with the strong wind might fall. The last walls of the southern and eastern wing are in very critical conditions. It is still possible to preserve and restore Skolj's remains. The collected information allows an exactly reconstruction of the whole complex,
as it was before its progressive collapse since the 19th century. With a professional supervised restoration it could be possible to recover this significant cultural point, in order to preserve the memory of Rauber, Neuhaus and Rossetti families and to also create an interesting tourist spot among the Skocjan Caves Park's offerings.
32 In the same year Katja Muren and her husband intended to buy the castle and they started to clean the whole complex, but at the end they couldn't afford the price given to the site. They found many interesting old pieces between the ruins; among others pieces of renaissance stove tiles and a perfume bottle's cap. In 2012 Sabina Pugelj in the ruins found another interesting piece of a renaissance stove tile. Together with Darja Kranjc, they began to search among Park Škocjanske jame's properties and they found more elements within park's archive such as a door from the castle, its key and its old door frame. They also informed that some of the castle's window frames are preserved in Matavun Village.
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grad školj in njegova arhitekturna zgodovina
Igor S APAČ
Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za gradbeništvo, prometno inženirstvo in arhitekturo, Oddelek za arhitekturo,
Smetanova ulica 17, SI-2000 Maribor e-mail: igor.sapac@um.si
Juan P. MASCHIO
Kidričevo naselje 1, SI-6230 Postojna e-mail: juan.maschio@projektfeniks.eu
POVZETEK
Na visokem prepadnem skalnem pomolu nad sotesko reke Reke pri Famljah v bližini Škocjanskih jam postavljeni grad Školj danes sodi med manj znane gradove v Sloveniji. Že več kakor eno stoletje je opuščen in razvaljen. Do 19. stoletja je zaradi slikovite lege in razgibane stavbne zasnove spadal med najzanimivejše grajske stavbe dežele Kranjske. V tem članku želimo predstaviti rezultate več let trajajočih arhitekturnozgodovinskih raziskav, izvedenih na podlagi študija pisnih virov, slikovnih virov, razpoložljive literature in materialnih ostankov, ki pomen gradu kažejo v novi luči in ga uvrščajo med pomembnejše spomenike grajske dediščine v Sloveniji. Grad z dvema stolpoma in tremi stavbnimi trakti je dal zelo verjetno v drugi tretjini 16. stoletja zgraditi vplivni plemič Kozma Rauber, praded Janeza Vajkarda Valvasorja in graditelj velikega renesančnega dvorca Krumperk pri Domžalah. Morda so v renesančno zasnovo vključili ostanke starejšega dvora iz poznega srednjega veka. Pozneje so renesančno stavbno zasnovo le malo spreminjali in je prvotno podobo ohranila do propada v 19. stoletju. Stavbna zasnova je zanimiva kot svojevrsten kompromis med srednjeveško tradicijo in novimi renesančnimi arhitekturnimi usmeritvami. Kaže kako je ideja utrjenega srednjeveškega višinskega gradu v renesančni preobleki preživela še po koncu srednjega veka v 16. stoletju in dokazuje, da so višinski gradovi z raznoličnimi stavbnimi deli in heterogeno zasnovo tudi še v 16. stoletju plemstvu še vedno ustrezali kot reprezentativna oblika gosposkega sedeža. Zaradi posebnega pomena so ostanki gradu od leta 1996 v sklopu regijskega parka Škocjanske jame zakonsko varovani kot nepremična kulturna dediščina. Z njihovo strokovno izpeljano sanacijo in obnovo bi znova dobili pomembno krajinsko dominanto in obudili spomin na plemiške rodovine Rauber, Neuhaus in Rossetti, pridobili pa bi tudi turistično atrakcijo, ki bi ponudbo Škocjanskih jam mogla dopolnjevati podobno kakor grad Jama v Predjami zaokrožuje turistično ponudbo Postojnske jame.
Ključne besede: Školj, Neukhoffell, Neukofell, Noviscoglio, grad, Rauber, Ravbar, Neuhaus, Rossetti, Dekleva, Janez Vajkard Valvasor, Louis François Cassas, Park Škocjanske jame, konservatorstvo, arhitekturna zgodovina
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REFERENCES Archive sources
ARS - Arhiv Republike Slovenije (ARS), SI AS 176/A/ A28/g/A05 - Franciscejski kataster za Kranjsko (k. o. Fa-mlje), 1822.
CGEB Trieste - Commissione Grotte Eugenio Boegan (CGEB), Trieste, Catasto fotografico: S. Canziano, Novis-
coglio.
CM Trieste - Civici Musei (CM) di Storia ed Arte, Trieste, Fototeca: Photos of the abandoned Školj Castle in the first half of the 20th century.
EK - Eesti Kunstimuuseum (EK), Tallinn: Johann Wilhelm Krause, Das Schloss Novoscoglio am Ruecca Thale, nach Cassas, 12. 9. 1839.
INDOK - Informacijsko-dokumentacijski center za dediščino (INDOK), Ministrstvo Republike Slovenije za kulturo, Ljubljana, fototeka: Photos of Školj Castle by Jože Gorjup, 1990.
ZVKDS OE Nova Gorica - Zavod za varstvo kulturne dediščine Slovenije (ZVKDS), Območna enota Nova Gorica: spisovno gradivo, fototeka in planoteka: Školj, 1990.
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