ZLATA DOBA LJUBLJANSKEGA MEŠČANSTVA NA STARIH RAZGLEDNICAH THE GOLDEN AGE OF LJUBLJANA'S BOURGEOISIE ON OLD POSTCARDS Inštitut IZRA Kolofon Colophon Zlata doba ljubljanskega meščanstva na starih razglednicah The golden age of Ljubljana's bourgeoisie on old postcards Avtorji: dr. David Petelin, Danijel Osmanagić, dr. Aleš Šafarič Texts by: dr. David Petelin, Danijel Osmanagić, dr. Aleš Šafarič Oblikovanje: Andrej Jurij Pirnat Design by: Andrej Jurij Pirnat Tehnična pomoč: Uroš Klopčič, Danijel Osmanagić Technical assistance by: Uroš Klopčič, Danijel Osmanagić Lektura in prevod: Aleš Lampe Proofreading and translations by: Aleš Lampe Razglednice: Milena Žnideršič Postcards: Milena Žnideršič Izdal in založil: IZRA, Inštitut za zgodovinske raziskave, zanj Edited and published by: IZRA, Institute of Historical Research, direktor dr. Aleš Šafarič represented by dr. Aleš Šafarič Spletna publikacija je izšla s pomočjo Mestne občine Ljubljana The online publication was published with the help of the in podjetij Antiq Palace Turizem d.o.o. ter Kurikulum, šolsko Municipality of Ljubljana and companies Antiq Palace Turizem pravno svetovanje d.o.o. d.o.o. and Kurikulum, šolsko pravno svetovanje d.o.o. Ljubljana, oktober 2022 Ljubljana, October 2022 Kataložni zapis o publikaciji (CIP) pripravili v Narodni in univerzitetni knjižnici v Ljubljani COBISS.SI-ID 127148035 ISBN 978-961-96015-0-1 (PDF) 2 Kazalo / Table of contents Kazalo / Table of contents ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 3 Uvod / Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 4 Vzpon slovenskega meščanstva / Rise of the Slovene bourgeoisie ............................................................................................................................................................. 5 Gradbeni razvoj mesta / Urban development of Ljubljana ........................................................................................................................................................................... 8 O razglednicah / About the postcards ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 13 Zmajski most / Dragon bridge ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 15 Vodnikov trg in tržnica / Vodnik's square and the market ............................................................................................................................................................................ 17 Stolnica sv. Nikolaja / Saint Nicholas's cathedral ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 19 Prešernov trg / Prešeren's square ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 21 Tromostovje / Triple bridge ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 23 Kresija in Filipov dvorec / Kresija and Filip's mansion .................................................................................................................................................................................. 25 Rotovž / Town hall ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 27 Ljubljanski grad / Ljubljana castle ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................29 Mestni trg / Town square ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 31 Čevljarski most / Cobblers' bridge .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 33 Stari trg / Old square ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 35 Šentjakobska cerkev in Levstikov trg / Church of St. James and Levstik square ................................................................................................................................ 37 Trnovo ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 39 Križanke ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 41 Vegova ulica / Vegova street ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 43 Deželni dvorec in Univerza / Provincial mansion and university ............................................................................................................................................................ 45 Kongresni trg in park Zvezda / Congress square and the Star park ......................................................................................................................................................... 47 Kazina / Casino building ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 49 Predsedniška palača / Presidential palace ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 51 Promenada / Promenade ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 53 Deželno gledališče / Provincial theatre ................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 55 Tivolski grad / Tivoli castle ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 57 Sodišče s parkom / Courthouse with the park ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 59 Kavarna Evropa / Cafe Europe ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 61 Šempetrska cerkev / St. Peter's parish church ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 63 3 Uvod Introduction Spletna publikacija Zlata doba ljubljanskega meščanstva na Online publication »Golden age of Ljubljana's bourgeoisie on old starih razglednicah, kot že nakazuje naslov, skozi razglednice postcards« presents some of the most eminent landmarks of Ljubljana prve polovice 20. stoletja predstavlja nekaj najbolj eminentnih through postcards from the first half of the 20th century. The pictorial znamenitosti Ljubljane tistega časa. Slikovno gradivo črpa iz material is drawn from a rich collection of city postcards, which a bogate zbirke razglednic mesta, ki jih je doma in na tujem passionate lover of history Milena Žnideršič was collecting at home and zbirala Ljubljančanka ter velika ljubiteljica zgodovine Milena abroad. The whole collection is already available for years on the Žnideršič. Celotno zbirko si je moč ogledati na spletni strani website zgodovinanadlani.si, which we published in cooperation with zgodovinanadlani.si, kjer smo jo objavili v sodelovanju s the Slavic library from Ljubljana. With this publication though, we Slovansko knjižnico, s to publikacijo pa sedaj želimo še bolj wish to present some of the city's most important landmarks in greater poglobljeno predstaviti nekaj največjih znamenitosti. Na eni detail. On one hand, the publication addresses all those, especially the strani publikacija nagovarja vse tiste, zlasti pa mlade, ki za younger generations, who usually turn to the internet for information. podatki najraje posegajo na spletu, na drugi strani pa vabi On the other hand, it attracts tourists, both domestic and foreign ones, turiste, domače in tuje, jih vodi po mestu in jim ostaja za guides them around the city, and stays as a long-lasting memory. spomin. The current publication is an inaugural one, published by IZRA, Pričujoča publikacija je prva, ki jo je izdal IZRA, Inštitut za Institute of Historical Research. With it, the founders of the Institute, zgodovinske raziskave. Z njo želimo njeni ustanovitelji wish to upgrade our perennial work, which we are doing above else nadgraditi naše večletno delo, ki ga opravljamo predvsem iz because of our love for history and as well because of a sense of ljubezni do zgodovine in občutka odgovornosti do družbe. responsibility towards society. We thank the Municipality of Ljubljana Mestni občini Ljubljana gre velika zahvala za sofinanciranje for co-financing the project. Special gratitude goes as well to donors izdaje, prav tako pa donatorjema Antiq Palace Turizmu in Antiq Palace Turizem and Kurikulum, which showed great Kurikulumu, ki sta izkazala velik posluh za zgodovino in appreciation for history and heritage. dediščino. 4 Vzpon slovenskega Rise of the Slovene meščanstva bourgeoisie Meščanstvo je v zgodovini predstavljalo privilegiran družbeno-Thorough history bourgeoisie represented a privileged social class of socialni sloj mestnega prebivalstva. Označujejo ga določene people who lived in the cities. We are associating it with several poklicne dejavnosti, premoženjska sestava, miselnost in način business enterprises, property structures, and unique ways of living and življenja. Po tem se je ločevalo od plemstva, revnejših mestnih thinking. It was different from aristocracy, lower classes of people from prebivalcev in kmetov. Ob prehodu iz srednjega v novi vek so urban areas, and peasantry. In the transition period from the Middle se začele rahljati meje med družbenimi skupinami, zato se je Ages to the Early Modern era, boundaries between social groups started bogato meščanstvo skušalo izenačevati s plemstvom. to loosen up and crumble, so the rich bourgeoisie tried to get on equal Meščanstvu je dala pečat francoska revolucija (1789), ki je footing with the aristocracy and nobility. The French revolution of pomenila zmago meščanske mentalitete in liberalizma, njihov 1789 was a victory for the bourgeoisie, their mentality, and liberalism. način življenja pa je začel odločati pri širšem oblikovanju Its way of living and thinking started to assert itself in decision-making kulturnih vzorcev in standardov. V grobem so sloj sestavljali and the wider formation of cultural patterns and standards. In short, bankirji, veletrgovci, industrijski podjetniki, tehniki in inženirji, the social classes constituted bankers, wholesalers, industrialist advokati, zdravniki, profesorji, učitelji, vodilni nameščenci in businessmen, engineers, lawyers, technicians, physicians, professors, uradniki. teachers, leading employees, and officials. Ko govorimo o slovenskem meščanstvu, je ta kot nacionalno When we focus on the Slovene bourgeoisie, with its sense of national zaveden del družbe začel nastajati šele v 19. stoletju. Slovenci so awareness it only came into existence in the 19th century. Slovenes were bili namreč “razdeljeni” po starih srednjeveških deželah, zato so "divided" between old medieval regions and in contrast with other v odnosu do drugih narodov v državi začeli razvijati novo nations in the Habsburg state they started to develop new modern moderno narodno-jezikovno zavest in gojiti politične ambicije national-language-based national awareness and develop political po združitvi slovensko govorečih prebivalcev v enoten upravni ambitions in uniting all Slovene-speaking population into a single okvir, pravni enakopravnosti na vseh nivojih in svojem šolstvu vse do univerze. Kultura je na tem mestu predstavljala 5 pomemben segment. Za slovenski narodni vzpon je bilo tako 19. administrational frame, legal equality on all levels in their educational stoletje prelomno. V manj kot pol stoletja je od kulturnega system to university at the later stage. Culture was an important part projekta Žige Zoisa prišlo do prve politične ideje Zedinjene of this national self-awareness. For Slovene national ascent, the 19th Slovenije (1848), posebne enote upravno zaokroženega century was of paramount importance. In less than half a century from narodnega telesa pod habsburškim žezlom. Vzporedno se je ob the modest cultural project of Žiga Zois, Slovenes came to its first uradovalni nemščini v uradih, šolstvu in kulturnem življenju political platform "United Slovenia" (1848), a special administrative začel uveljavljati slovenski jezik. unit in which all Slovenes were to live together, under the Habsburg crown. At the same time together with the German language, Slovene Slovensko meščanstvo se je predvsem v zadnjih desetletjih 19. started to appear in state and educational institutions and cultural life stoletja gospodarsko in politično krepilo ter po zgledu Dunaja in as well. Prage začelo preoblikovati Ljubljano v moderno prestolnico. Ta je mestne pravice dobila že leta 1243 in bila stoletja največje In the last few decades of the 19th century Slovene bourgeoisie started mesto dežele Kranjske, njeno cerkveno, upravno, politično, to grow stronger economically and politically and was looking up to kulturno in gospodarsko središče. Med letoma 1809–1813 je Vienna and Prague in transforming Ljubljana into a modern capital. postala glavno mesto državne tvorbe (Ilirske province), leta 1821 Ljubljana got the city rights back in the year 1243 and was for centuries s kongresom Svete alianse za kratek čas tudi središče evropske the biggest city in the land of Carniola, its religious, administrational, politične elite. Do konca 19. stoletja se je nato spremenila v political, cultural, and economic centre. Between 1809 and 1813 it slovenski politični in kulturni center, kjer so bili sedeži became the capital of the French autonomous region Illyrian provinces najpomembnejših društev, kulturnih ustanov, časopisov, prvih and during the Congress of Holy Alliance (Congress of Ljubljana) in političnih strank in strokovnih združenj. Temu je sledila tudi z 1821 for a brief period, it became a capital of the European political razvojem svoje podobe, pri čemer je vzpenjajoče se meščanstvo elite. Until the end of the 19th century, it transformed itself into a postalo usmerjevalec mestnega in arhitekturnega razvoja, ki je s Slovenian political and cultural centre, where the seats of most svojimi življenjskimi navadami, gospodarsko iniciativo, important societies, cultural institutions, newspapers, the first political intelektualno močjo, kulturnimi modeli in mentaliteto parties, and associations of people from several different professions odločilno sooblikovalo razvoj stavbnih ter stanovanjskih were located. At the same time the city's look started to change, whereby projektov. the rising bourgeoisie with its life habits, economical initiative, intellectual power, cultural models, and mentality became one of the Ljubljana se je iz deželne prestolnice spreminjala v slovenski guides of urban and architectonic development and decisively co-narodni center tudi s pomočjo arhitekture, urbanizma in shaped evolution of building and housing projects. komunalne infrastrukture (elektrifikacija, plinovod, vodovod, kanalizacija). Še prav poseben zagon je sledil v času županovanja 6 Ivana Hribarja v letih 1896–1910, ko je potekala obnova mesta Ljubljana was also changing from a provincial capital into a Slovene po velikem potresu leta 1895. Ta je mesto močno prizadel, za national centre with the help of architecture, urbanism, and communal njegovo obnovo pa se je angažirala celotna takratna monarhija. infrastructure (electrification, gas pipelines, sewer systems, and Nova arhitektura, ki so jo prinašali na Dunaju izšolani slovenski waterworks). During the mayorship of Ivan Hribar (1896-1910), after arhitekti (Ciril Metod Koch, Maks Fabiani, Ivan Jager itd.), je bila Ljubljana's Easter earthquake in 1895 several projects were v veliki meri tudi odraz slovenskih nacionalnih stremljenj. implemented. Earthquake hit the city badly, but the whole (Habsburg) monarchy stood behind its reconstruction. Slovene architects who Po razpadu avstro-ogrske monarhije leta 1918 je Ljubljana še studied in Vienna (Ciril Metod Koch, Maks Fabiani, Ivan Jager, etc.) formalno postala kulturno in upravno središče Slovencev. Z brought new architecture to the city, which was in many ways a novo jugoslovansko državo so bile izpolnjene dolgoletne težnje reflection of Slovenian national aspirations. slovenske narodne emancipacije po samostojni državi, kar je dajalo zanos pri pospešeni modernizaciji Ljubljane. Mesto se je After the collapse of Austria-Hungary in the year 1918 Ljubljana also širilo tako po površini kot po številu prebivalcev. Postalo je eno formally became the cultural and administrational capital of Slovenes. izmed petih največjih mest v Jugoslaviji, število prebivalstva pa With the newly founded Yugoslav state, Slovene national aspirations of je z dobrih 36.000 na prelomu stoletja naraslo na več kot an independent state were fulfilled, which gave an additional surge in 100.000 tik pred 2. svetovno vojno. Na rast je vplivala predvsem the city’s modernization. The city started expanding by land area as upravna in politična funkcija mesta, povečanje obrti in trgovine well as by the number of inhabitants. It became one of the five biggest ter živahne kulturne dejavnosti, medtem ko je industrijsko Yugoslav cities. At the turn of the century, it had 36.000 inhabitants ostajalo slabše razvito. Svoj vrh je v tridesetih letih 20. stoletja and it reached the number 100.000 just before the Second World War. doseglo tudi slovensko meščanstvo. Obdobje pa je sicer ob The administration and political function of the city, increased number številnih pozitivnih dosežkih, prineslo tudi nekaj manj dobrih, of handicraft businesses and trade, and as well as rich cultural life med katerimi je bila družbena diferenciacija v socialnem oziru influenced its growth, while the city was not that industrially in ostra delitev med različnimi družbeno-političnimi nazori. developed. Slovene bourgeoisie reached its high point in the thirties of the 20th century. Many positive achievements from that period, brought also some less positive ones, one of them being social differentiation and a sharp division between different social-political worldwide views. 7 Gradbeni razvoj mesta Urban development of Ljubljana Kljub temu, da je bila Ljubljana že od 13. stoletja deželna prestolnica in deželnoknežje mesto, kjer so od 15. stoletja stalno zasedali deželni stanovi in bili nastanjeni deželnoknežji organi Despite being Carniola's capital since the 13th century and Provincial (deželni glavar in vicedom kot namestnika deželnega kneza), je Duke’s town, where since the 15th century nobility was holding regular bila v upravnem in sodnem oziru dolgo prostorsko omejena, saj state sessions and where Provincial authorities were located je upravljala le ožje območje – mestno pomirje. Poleg (Provincial Duke and his subordinates), Ljubljana was in meščanskih hiš v mestu in njihovih zemljišč izven obzidja (t. i. administrational and judicial aspect quite spatially limited. It patidenčne hiše) so venec okoli Stare Ljubljane (Mestni, Stari in encompassed only a minor area – the city and its suburbs. Besides the Novi trg) tvorila predmestja in vaška jedra, ki so šele v 20. bourgeois houses in the city and its estates outside the City Walls stoletju postala upravno, urbanistično in poistovetno integralni (nursing homes), the town's core around Old Ljubljana (Town, Old and del mesta, čeprav so se ponekod kmečki in urbani elementi New square) was formed with suburbs and neighbouring villages. They mešali več stoletij. Stara ljubljanska predmestja so bila only in the 20th century became administratively, urbanistically, and Šempeter/Šentpeter, Poljane, Gradišče in Kapucinsko with the sense of city identification an integral part of Ljubljana. predmestje, Karlovško predmestje in Trnovo. Med urbanizirane Although in some cases urban and rural elements were overlapping ljubljanske vasi štejemo Vodmat, Spodnjo in Zgornjo Šiško, Vič each other for centuries. Old Ljubljana’s suburbs were in Glince, Moste, Selo in Fužine, Štepanjo vas, Koseze in Dravlje Šempeter/Šentpeter (Saint Peter), Poljane, Gradišče and Kapucinsko ter barjanske vasi. Med naselbinske komplekse obdobja vzpona predmestje (Capuchin’s suburb), Karlovško predmestje (a suburb near industrializacije pa spadajo Bežigrad, Kodeljevo, Rožna dolina Karlovac bridge) and Trnovo. Among the urbanised villages around in delavske kolonije. Med njimi zagotovo izstopa najstarejše Ljubljana, we can count Vodmat, Lower and Upper Šiška, Vič and srednjeveško predmestje Krakovo, ki je vse do danes ohranilo Glince, Moste, Selo and Fužine, Štepanja vas (village), Koseze, Dravlje trdoživo arhitekturno-urbanistični videz pritličnih hiš z vrtovi. and villages near the Barje marshes. Among residential complexes from the period of Industrialization, we count Bežigrad, Kodeljevo, Rožna Prvi prelomni poseg mesta v predmestja je bilo rušenje dolina, and several workers' colonies. Among them especially Krakovo srednjeveškega obzidja konec 18. stoletja in nastanek novih stands out, old Ljubljana's medieval suburbs, which even till today trgov (Trg francoske revolucije, Kongresni, Prešernov in Krekov preserved its architectural-urban appearance of ground-floor houses trg). Drugo razvojno etapo je spodbudil prihod železnice leta with gardens. 1848 in prvi skromni začetki industrializacije, tretjo pa popotresna obnova v letih 1895–1914. 8 Parcelacija zemljišč in urbanistična ureditev Stare Ljubljane The first groundbreaking intervention into the city's suburbs was dokazuje, da gradbena rast ni bila prepuščena posamezniku in thedestruction of the Medieval City Walls in the late 18th Century and špekulaciji, temveč so parcelacijo stavbišč in gradnjo hiš the formation of new squares (today known as Krek's, Congress, predpisovali državna (deželna) oblast in mestni svet, ki sta Prešeren's, and French Revolution squares). The second stage of dejansko usmerjala gradbeni razvoj mesta. V drugi polovici 19. evolution started with the arrival of the train in 1849 and the first stoletja se je mesto iz starega srednjeveškega jedra hitro širilo ob modest beginnings of industrialization. As the third stage, we can glavnih prometnih poteh navzven, z novo železniško povezavo consider the reconstruction of the city after the Easter earthquake pa so nastali tudi novi mestni predeli proti zahodu in severu od (1895-1914). Land parceling and urban planning proves that the mestnega središča. Nad današnjo Streliško ulico je Viljem urbanistic growth of the town was not left either to individuals or Cloetta, švicarski konzul v Trstu, zgradil leta 1862 prvo vilo v speculations. Construction of buildings and houses was regulated by the Ljubljani. Za gradbeni razmah Ljubljane je bila pomembna land of Carniola and the city’s administration, which shaped the izgradnja gorenjske železnice leta 1870 in ustanovitev tobačne development of the town. In the second part of the 19th century, the city tovarne, ki je dobila ogromne tovarniške prostore ob Tržaški started to grow quite quickly from its old medieval core along the main cesti leta 1873. transport routes. With the new railway connection (1849) new parts of the city were created, west and north of the town's core. Willem Cloetta, Ljubljana je bila zaradi slovensko-nemškega nasprotja the Swiss consul from Trieste, built the first Villa in Ljubljana in 1862 prizorišče tekmovanja tudi na arhitekturnem in urbanističnem above Streliška (Shooter's) street. For further construction boom, we can področju. Deželna in občinska oblast, ki je bila v rokah thank the newly established Upper Carniola rail line (1870) and the slovenskih politikov, je naročala arhitekturne projekte pri construction of the Tobacco factory, which received huge premises near slovenskih arhitektih in v duhu panslavizma pri drugih the Trieste (Tržaška) Road in 1873. slovanskih (češki, hrvaški) projektantih. Na drugi strani se je nemški kapital večinoma skoncentriral v delniški Kranjski Because of its Germanic-Slavic (German-Slovene) conflicts in the town, stavbinski družbi in Kranjski hranilnici kot investitorju. Medtem Ljubljana also became a site of competition in architectural and ko so se slednji pri gradnji ozirali predvsem v historične stile urbanist areas. Carniola’s and municipal administration were in the (neogotika, neorenesansa), pa se je slovensko čuteče meščanstvo hands of Slovene politicians and were ordering architectural projects v takrat sodobno secesijo in skušalo ustvariti celo slovenski at Slovenian architects and also in the spirit of Pan-Slavism with other narodni slog (arhitekt Ivan Vurnik). Tako lahko sledimo dvema Slavic (Czech, Croat) architectural bureaus. On the other hand, the arhitekturnima podobama Ljubljane v času do prve svetovne German capital was concentrated in Carniola's construction company vojne. Za nemški del je veljal mestni predel med današnjo and Carniola Savings Bank, which was the main investor. While the Slovensko in Prešernovo cesto, za slovenski pa del proti latter looked upon the historical architectural styles (Neorenesance, kolodvoru (Miklošičeva ulica). Gothic Revival architecture) for their construction projects, the Slovene 9 Gradbena dejavnost v tem obdobju je večinoma obsegala bourgeoise population was closer to the at that time modern Secession nadzidavanje in prezidavanje že obstoječih poslopij, nekaj pa je style (Art Nouveau) and even tried to develop a special Slovene national bil tudi novih stavb in večjih projektov: realka na Vegovi ulici architectural style (architect Ivan Vurnik). So, until the beginning of (1871), šola na Grabnu (1875), upravno poslopje Kranjske the First World War, we can follow two different architectural visions hranilnice na današnji Tomšičevi ulici (1879), Deželni muzej of Ljubljana simultaneously. The German-speaking part was (1883), pehotna vojašnica na Taboru (1886) in otroška bolnišnica considered the one between today's Slovenian and Prešeren's roads, and na Streliški ulici (1887). Leta 1886 so ustanovili Društvo za the Slovene one was heading from the old core towards the main gradnjo delavskih stanovanj, ki je v naslednjih letih kupilo Railway station (Miklošič's road). zemljišče za Bežigradom in na današnji Hranilniški ulici sezidalo pet enonadstropnih večstanovanjskih hiš za 91 družin. Construction activity in that period was primarily focused on enlarging Po potresu leta 1895 so podobne delavske kolonije s hišami and renovating already existing buildings, but there were also a few zrasle še na Koleziji, v Zeleni jami in Rožni dolini. Do 20. stoletja newly built projects. The most impressive ones were the Gymnasium so bile zgrajene še številne javne zgradbe, na primer koncertna (School) on Vegova street (1871), the school on Graben Street (1875), the dvorana na Kongresnem trgu, novo deželno gledališče, hiralnica administrative building of Carniola Savings bank on today's na Vidovdanski cesti, Marijanišče na Poljanski cesti, Rokodelski Tomšičeva street (1879), the Carniola region museum (1883), Infantry dom na Komenskega cesti in nov trakt uršulinskega samostana. Barracks in Tabor district (1886) and children's hospital on Streliška (Shooter's) street. In 1886 Society for construction of worker's housing Prvi stavbni red za urejanje gradbene problematike je Ljubljana was founded. Soon after it bought land in Bežigrad district on today's dobila šele leta 1847, leta 1875 pa je bil izdan stavbni red tudi za Hranilniška (Savings) street and built five single-floor multi-celotno Kranjsko. Mestna infrastruktura se je počasi apartment buildings for 91 families. After the earthquake of 1895 modernizirala in približevala zahodnoevropskim standardom. similar worker colonies with houses were built in Kolezija, Zelena jama Leta 1861 je bila zgrajena plinarna, leta 1890 prvi vodovod, leta (Green cave), and Rožna dolina (Flower's valley) districts. Until the 1897 elektrarna, leto kasneje sistem kanalizacije in prve beginning of the 20th century several other public buildings were tramvajske proge leta 1901. Odločilno prelomnico v constructed, for example, a Concert Hall on Congress square, the new urbanističnem načrtovanju in izgradnji mesta je pomenil že Theater of Carniola region, a nursing house on Vidovdan's (St. Vitus's) omenjeni velikonočni potres, ki je spodbudil tudi ljubljansko street, Marijanišče on Poljanska road, Handicrafts House on mestno oblast k temeljitejšem urbanističnem pristopu in Komenskega road and new part of Ursuline monastery was built. urejanju novega mestnega središča. Nove urbanistične zasnove in regulacijske načrte so prispevali mestni arhitekt Anton Wolf, Ljubljana got its first building code for regulation of construction issues dunajski urbanist Camillo Sitte in dr. Maks Fabiani. only in the year 1847. In 1875 similar code was issued for the whole 10 V obdobju med obema svetovnima vojnama (1918–1941) je Carniola region. The city's infrastructure was slowly modernising and Ljubljana prerasla meje, ki jih je zajemal stari regulacijski načrt. was getting closer to Western-European standards. In 1861 city got its Začela je dobivati značilno obliko mesta, v katerem se je Gas plant, in 1890 water supply system, in 1898 electrical power plant, intenzivno gradilo ob glavnih vpadnicah in so se izgubljale jasno and sewer system a year later and the first electrical tram lines started definirane meje mesta v hierarhični strukturi, ki se je odražala functioning in 1901. A decisive breakthrough in urban planning and tako v socialni, ekonomski kot v fizični podobi. Medtem ko je city building was already mentioned Easter earthquake, which bil razvoj Ljubljane v središču mesta organiziran in oblikovan, encouraged the city authorities to create a thorough urbanistic je bil razvoj v predmestjih stihijski in neorganiziran. Zaradi approach to developing the new city centre. Local architect Anton Wolf, izredno hitrega razvoja mesta severno od železniške postaje Vienna urbanist Camillo Sitte and dr. Maks Fabiani contributed to the (Bežigrad) se je že v dvajsetih letih pojavila potreba po izdelavi new regulation plans and urban development of the city. novega regulacijskega načrta za celotno mesto Ljubljane. Arhitekt Plečnik je leta 1929 izdelal regulacijski načrt Velike In the period between two world wars (1918-1941) Ljubljana stretched Ljubljane, ki je mesto zasnoval koncentrično in predvidel above the boundaries set by the old regulation plan. It started getting a njegovo širitev iz starega historičnega jedra radialno navzven. unique shape in the town, in which intensive building projects started Zaradi intenzivne gradbene dejavnosti so leta 1935 nekatere appearing on the town's main avenues. Clearly defined boundaries of ljubljanske okoliške vasi uradno priključili mestu v enotno the city in a hierarchic structure, which reflected itself in social, upravno območje takratne Mestne občine Ljubljanske. economic, and physical shape started to disappear. At the same time development of Ljubljana in the centre of the town was organised and Z vsesplošnim razvojem Ljubljane v medvojnem obdobju se je planned, while the development of the city's suburbs was exactly the z večanjem mestne površine širilo tudi njegovo središče, ki je že opposite. Because of the extremely quick development of the Bežigrad v dvajsetih letih 20. stoletja zaobjelo območje današnje district (North of the Railway station), already in the twenties of the Slovenske ceste in bilo gradbeno najbolj živahno. Tam so previous century a need arose for a modern regulation plan for the zgradili nekaj stavb, ki so presegle višino gradnje, do tedaj whole town. In 1929 architect Plečnik created a regulation plan for the značilne za Ljubljano. Ljubljanski »downtown« je začel izstopati so-called "Big Ljubljana". He designed the city concentrically and iz značilnega vertikalnega gabarita stare Ljubljane z novimi štiri-envisaged its expansion from the old historical core radially outwards. in petnadstropnimi stavbami. Mestno središče je spreminjalo Because of the intensive building projects in 1935 several of Ljubljana's svojo arhitekturno in morfološko podobo, ki se je odražala v vse suburban villages were officially annexed to the town into a united area bolj strnjeni pozidavi in višini zgradb, urejanju ulic, parkov in of at that time Municipality of Ljubljana. postavljanju spomenikov, za kar je najbolj poskrbel Plečnik. V mestnem središču so se koncentrirale najrazličnejše aktivnosti With the overall development of Ljubljana in the interwar period also mestnega, regionalnega in nacionalnega nivoja. Gradile so se the city's land area and centre started growing. Already in the twenties 11 nove upravne, kulturne, šolske in poslovne stavbe. Tu se je of the 20th century, it encompassed the area of today's Slovenian road, koncentriral bančni in gospodarski kapital, s katerim so bile where construction was the most intense. There several projects were zgrajene palače in razne poslovne stavbe. Prav v tridesetih letih finished and the sizes of new achievements were uncharacteristically je mestno središče dobilo tudi nov vrh v stavbi Nebotičnika high for buildings built in Ljubljana before that period. "Ljubljana’s (Vladimir Šubic, 1933), ki je simboliziral novo preobrazbo downtown" began to stand out from its characteristic vertical size of the mesta. Poleg njega so zrasle številne, še danes pomembne in old town with its new four or five-floor buildings. The city's core was ikonične stavbe: Slavija (Ivo Medved, 1938), palača Bata (Franjo changing its architectural image and morphology, which was reflected Lušičić, 1939), hotel Slon (Stanko Rohrman, 1937), Zadružna in increasingly compact buildings and their sizes, the arrangement of gospodarska banka (Ivan Vurnik, 1921), Sokolski dom na Taboru streets and parks, and new monuments. For all this architect Plečnik is (Ivan Vurnik, 1926), Dukičevi bloki (Jože Sivec, 1935) in Rdeča the most responsible. In the city centre, several different activities from hiša na Poljanski cesti (Vladimir Mušič, 1929). Nadaljnji razvoj je the regional to the national level were concentrated. New presekala vojna, po njej pa je drugačno arhitekturno in administrative, cultural, educational, and business buildings were urbanistično pot narekoval nov družbeno-politični sistem s constructed. Bank and business capital were concentrated there with socialistično oblastjo na čelu. which new palaces and other office buildings were built. In the thirties, the 20th century city centre reached the pinnacle of its development with the building of the Skyscraper (Nebotičnik, architect Vladimir Šubic, the year 1933), which symbolised the transformation of the city. Besides it several iconic buildings emerged, important even today. Most important ones are - Slavija (Ivo Medved, 1938), Palace Bata (Franjo Lušičić, 1939), Hotel Elephant (hotel Slon, Stanko Rohrman, 1937), Cooperative Business Bank Building (Zadružna gospodarska banka, Ivan Vurnik, 1921), House of the Falcon society in Tabor district (Sokolski dom, Ivan Vurnik, 1926), Dukič’s houses (Dukičevi bloki, Jože Sivec, 1935) and Red House on Poljanska road (Rdeča hiša, Vladimir Mušič, 1929). Further development was cut short by the Second World War and after it, a completely new vision of architectural and urbanist development arrived with the new social-economical-political system in the socialist period. 12 O razglednicah About the postcards Prelom iz 19. v 20. stoletje velja za čas razcveta razglednic. The turn from the 19th to 20th century is considered to be the golden Predhodnice razglednic so bile voščilnice, ki so jih sprva izročali age of postcards. Predecessors of postcards were greeting cards, which osebno, kasneje pa pošiljali po pošti. Prve ročno narejene in were initially delivered in person and later sent by post. The first umetelno okrašene so nastale že v začetku 19. stoletja, prave handmade and artfully decorated were created at the beginning of the razglednice pa so se v Evropi pojavile v sedemdesetih letih. 19th century and the first postcards in Europe began to appear in the Oktobra 1869 je namreč avstro-ogrska poštna uprava izdala prve seventies of that century. The Post administration of Austria-Hungary dopisnice (nem. Correspondenz-Karte), iz katerih so se zelo published the first Postal Cards in October 1869 (German hitro razvile razglednice. Na dopisnicah so se namreč kmalu Correspondenz-Karte). From them, the first postcards evolved. On the pojavile ročno risane sličice z različnimi motivi. Prva stran first postcards soon different drawings with unique motives appeared. razglednice je bila do leta 1906 v celoti namenjena naslovu, Until the year 1906, the first page of the postcard was fully intended for druga ali hrbtna stran pa podobi kraja, ki se je počasi povečevala the address, while the back side was reserved for the image of a certain od četrtine strani do cele strani na prelomu iz 19. v 20. stoletje. city or area and was slowly expanding from one-quarter of the size of Razglednice pa niso bile prenašalke zgolj na roko napisanega the postcard to a full page on the turn from the 19th to 20th century. tekstovnega sporočila, temveč so bile razumljene tudi kot del Postcards were not just delivering handwritten text messages but were narodne propagande z izbiro motivike, jezika, obeleženja also understood to be a part of national propaganda, with carefully pomembnega datuma ali dogodka, portreta pomembne selected motives, and language, commemorating important dates or osebnosti, uporabe narodnih barv in mestnih vedut ali events, portraits of important personalities, and use of national colours, posameznih stavb. Med temi »narodno-prebudnimi« city symbols, or certain buildings. Among these postcards with motives razglednicami so bile tudi raznovrstne podobe Ljubljane, ki sta of "national awakening" were also several images of Ljubljana, in si jo lastila oba narodnostna tabora, slovenski in nemški, na njih which both national camps – German and Slavic (Slovene), considered pa so se pojavljale mestne ulice, trgi in posamezne stavbe ter as their own. On the city's streets, squares, buildings, and panoramic panorame mesta. images of the town were appearing. Vrednost teh razglednic je v tem, da so nastale bodisi izpod rok The value of these postcards is that they were either created by fine likovnih umetnikov bodisi je šlo za obarvane fotografije (foto artists or were coloured photographs (photo postcards), as they were till razglednice), saj so bile do leta 1920 vse razglednice ročno the year 1920 all handmade coloured. Photographers and illustrators kolorirane s pomočjo klišejev. Prav fotografi in ilustratorji so deserve the credit that history was preserved on photographs and zaslužni, da se je »zgodovina« ohranila na fotografijah in 13 razglednicah. Kot najbolj pogosto so se na razglednicah postcards. The most frequent motifs on postcards were important uporabljali motivi pomembnih kulturnih, upravnih in cultural, administrative, and social buildings, as well as newly built družbenih stavb, kakor tudi novogradenj kot znak napredka in enterprises as a sign of progress and the cultural level of a specific kulturnosti posameznega naroda. Predstavljene razglednice v nation. Exhibited postcards in the publication have immense value as a publikaciji imajo izredno sporočilno vrednost, saj razkrivajo message, as they unveil the dress culture, architecture, national motives, oblačilno kulturo, arhitekturo, narodno motiviko, idealizirano and idealised vision of the city's past and represent a so-called small podobo mestne preteklosti in predstavljajo t. i. drobno kulturno cultural heritage. Classical bourgeoise and picturesque postcards in that dediščino. Klasičnega meščanstva in slikovitih razglednic, vsaj v communicative form and address, do not exist anymore in modern taki komunikacijski obliki in sporočilnosti, danes ni več. times. 14 Zmajski most / Dragon bridge 15 Med najimenitnejše mostove Ljubljane sodi zagotovo Zmajski Dragon bridge is definitely among the most wonderful and impressive most. Preden so leta 1901 zgradili secesijsko mojstrovino bridges in Ljubljana. Before this masterpiece was built in Art Noveau dalmatinskega arhitekta Jurija Zaninovića in statika Josefa (Secession style) in 1901 by Dalmatian architect Jurij Zaninović and Melana, je na tem mestu že osem desetletij let stal lesen Mesarski engineer Josef Melan, on its location for eight decades a wooden oak most. Stari most, ki ga je poškodoval velikonočni potres leta Butcher's bridge was located. The old bridge which was damaged by 1895, je povezoval Šempetrsko predmestje in Poljane. Župan an Easter earthquake of 1895, was connecting St. Peter's Ivan Hribar je v gradnji novega mostu videl priložnost za (Šempetersko) suburb of the town and the Poljane district. With the simbolno utrditev političnega položaja slovenskega naroda. construction of a new bridge, mayor Ivan Hribar saw the opportunity Mestna oblast je pri izgradnji mostu sledila tehnološkim for symbolic consolidation of the Slovene nation in the city. Town's razvojem in dala postaviti železobetonsko konstrukcijo, ki je bila administration was following state-of-the-art technological standards med prvimi in največjimi v Evropi, povrh tega pa je bila rešitev of the time during the construction of the bridge. They ordered an še cenejša. iron-concrete construction of the bridge, which was among the first ones and biggest in Europe, and was as well one of the cheaper options Franca Jožefa I. jubilejni most, kot so ga poimenovali, so for the construction. postavili v čast ob 40. obletnici vladanja omenjenega cesarja in kot poklon, da je zagotovil sredstva pri obnovi popotresne The bridge was named Jubilee bridge, in honour of Franz Josef I. It Ljubljane. Most so zgradili v manj kot letu in pol ter ga slovesno was to commemorate 40 years of his rule and for providing the funds odprli 4. oktobra 1901, na njem pa je bil položen prvi asfalt na for the reconstruction of Ljubljana after an earthquake. The bridge was Slovenskem. Sprva je bilo zamišljeno, da bodo most krasili veliki built in less than 18 months and was solemnly opened on 4th October krilati levi – grifoni, toda po prigovarjanju župana Hribarja jih 1901. On its first asphalt in Slovene lands was laid down. First, they je Zaninović zamenjal s simbolom Ljubljane, zmajem. Skupaj intended to decorate the bridge with giant Lions with wings – Griffons, most krasi dvajset zmajev iz bakrene pločevine - štirje veliki but after objections by mayor Hribar, Zaninović replaced them with the vogalni in šestnajst majhnih. symbol of Ljubljana – Dragons. The bridge has 20 dragons made out of copper, four bigger ones are on the corners and the other sixteen are located on the bridge's lamps. 16 Vodnikov trg in tržnica / Vodnik's square and the market 17 Vodnikov trg in osrednja ljubljanska tržnica sta nastala po Vodnik's square and Ljubljana's market were designed and built in the potresu leta 1895, ko so porušili poškodovano štiritraktno aftermath of the earthquake of 1895 when the damaged building of klasicistično poslopje liceja. Do konca 18. stoletja se je iz square-shaped lyceum built in classical style was demolished. Until the grajskega pobočja preko Krekovega trga proti Ljubljanici end of the 18th century from the castle's slope through Krek's square spuščalo srednjeveško mestno obzidje, vhod v mesto pa so towards Ljubljanica river, medieval city walls were extending. The zapirala Samostanska vrata. Ta so dobila ime po frančiškanskem entrance to the city was co called Monastery gates. They were named samostanu, ki je stal na mestu Vodnikovega trga že v 13. stoletju. after a Franciscan monastery, which was built back in the 13th century Pred cerkvijo je stalo plemiško pokopališče, poleg njega pa on the location of current Vodnik's square. In front of the church a Šenklavško kopališče. V 18. stoletju je poslopje dobilo novo cemetery for the nobility used to stand and beside it public baths were podobo. Nekdanji samostan je postal za nekaj časa bolnišnica, located. In the 18th century, the area got a different image. The former po predlogu razsvetljenca Antona Tomaža Linharta pa je monastery was for a while used as a hospital and after a suggestion by zgradbo zasedela novoustanovljena mesta šola – Ljubljanski a playwriter and historian Anton Tomaž Linhart from the licej, kjer je poučeval slovenski narodni buditelj, duhovnik in Enlightenment period the building Ljubljana lyceum moved in. In the pesnik Valentin Vodnik. V času Ilirskih provinc (1809–1813) je v newly built city's school, Valentin Vodnik, a priest and poet and a njej delovala prva popolna ljubljanska univerza, od leta 1821 pa person extremely important for the Slovene national awakening was prvi deželni muzej in knjižnica. teaching. During the time of the Illyrian provinces (1809-1813) in it the first University of Ljubljana was located and as well as the first Prav tam so leta 1898 pred vhodom postavili prvi slovenski museum and library. narodni kip Valentinu Vodniku, ki ga je iz brona izdelal kipar Alojzij Gangl, sredstva zanj pa so prispevali narodno zavedni Exactly there in 1898 in front of the entrance, the first national Slovenci in ljubljanski meščani. Leta 1905 so stavbo porušili in monument to Valentin Vodnik was erected. It was made from bronze trg poimenovali po pesniku. Arhitekt Jože Plečnik je na tem by the sculptor Alojzij Gangl and funds were provided by nationally mestu želel postaviti Novi magistrat. Zaradi pomanjkanja conscious Slovenes and citizens of Ljubljana. In the year 1905, the old finančnih sredstev so leta 1942 postavili le tržnice ob Ljubljanici, building was demolished and a newly built square was named after a vendar brez načrtovanega Mesarskega mostu. mentioned poet. Architect Jože Plečnik wanted to build a new Ljubljana Town hall there. Because of the lack of funds in 1942 only Market Colonnade along the Ljubljanica river was built, without the new Butcher's bridge that Plečnik was planning. 18 Stolnica sv. Nikolaja / Saint Nicholas's cathedral Na prehodu iz 12. v 13 stoletje so ribiči in čolnarji ob Mestnem posvetili svojemu zaščitniku sv. Nikolaju. Pozneje je postala trgu zgradili romansko cerkev (prvič omenjena 1262) in jo stolna cerkev ljubljanske škofije, ki je bila ustanovljena z 19 ustanovno bulo 6. decembra 1461. Po letu 1533 so imeli On the turn from the 12th to 13th century fishermen and boatmen from ljubljanski škofje pravico do knežjega naslova. Cerkev je bila Ljubljana's Town square built a church in Romanesque style (first večkrat prezidana, od romanskega do gotskega sloga, dokler je mentioned in the year 1262) and dedicated it to their protector Saint niso konec 17. stoletja podrli. Nicholas. Later it became the main church of the Ljubljana diocese, which was founded by Papal bull on 6th December 1461. After 1533 Da bi tudi Ljubljana postala pomembno kulturno in umetniško bishops of Ljubljana had a right to Princes' titles. The church was središče, je stolni dekan Janez Anton Dolničar po zgledu renovated several times, from Romanesque to Gothic styles, until it was italijanskih akademij leta 1693 v svojem stanovanju pred škofijo completely torn down in the late 17th century. s somišljeniki ustanovil Academio operosorum, intelektualno združbo ljubljanskih plemičev, meščanov in cerkvenih To turn Ljubljana into an important cultural and art centre cathedral's dostojanstvenikov. Prav akademija je zaslužna za zidavo nove dean Janez Anton Dolničar, following the trends of Italian academies, ljubljanske baročne stolnice in semenišča z javno znanstveno founded »Academia operosorum«, the intellectual society of Ljubljana's knjižnico. Med letoma 1701 in 1706 je po načrtih rimskega nobility, bourgeoisie, and important members of the clergy. Academy arhitekta Andrea Pozza, najslavnejšega italijanskega arhitekta deserves the credit for the construction of the city's new Baroque-style tedanjega časa, zrasla današnja stolnica. Notranjščino cerkve so cathedral and the Seminary, which had a public scientific library. okrasili tedanji vrhunski umetniki in kiparji, med njimi slikar Under the watchful eye of Roman Andrea Pozzo, considered to be the Giulio Quaglio, ki je s freskami okrasil osrednji del cerkve z finest Italian architect of the era, between 1701 and 1706 Ljubljana’s navidezno kupolo ter stranske kapele. Njegove freske v cathedral was constructed. The Interior of the church was decorated by ljubljanski stolnici so prva enotno zasnovana iluzionistična world-class artists and sculptors, among them painter Giulio Quaglio, poslikava na Slovenskem in spominjajo na delo beneških who decorated the virtual dome and side chapels with frescoes. His mojstrov Tintoretta, Corregia in Veroneseja. Leta 1841 je cerkev frescoes in Ljubljana's cathedral are the first uniformly designed dobila kupolo. illusionistic paintings in Slovene lands and remind us of creations by Venetian masters like Tintoretto, Correggio, and Veronese. Cathedral's dome was built in 1841. 20 Prešernov trg / Prešeren's square 21 Prešernov trg ni bil nikoli načrtovan, temveč je bil po svoji Prešeren’s square was never planned and was used throughout history zgodovinski zasnovi predmestno križišče ulic in poti, ki so as a suburb's crossroad of streets and paths, which were leading towards vodile v obzidano srednjeveško mesto, danes znano kot Stara the fortified medieval city, today known as Old Ljubljana. The area Ljubljana. Prostor je postajal pomemben zaradi lesenega became important because of the old wooden Špital bridge, named after Špitalskega mosta, ki je ime dobil po meščanskem špitalu the city hospital (German: Spittal), which was located at the location of oziroma bolnišnici na mestu današnje Kresije. Prešernov trg today's building of Kresija (Kreisamt). In the area of Prešeren's square, skriva pod seboj tudi staroslovenske grobove pri izginuli cerkvi the hidden old Slavic (Slovene) graves are located below the church of sv. Martina, ki je stala poleg današnje baročne cerkve Marijinega Saint Martin which used to stand there even before the 14th century. oznanjenja že pred 14. stoletjem. Trg je izgubil predmestni Square lost its suburban function in the late 18th century when značaj šele, ko so konec 18. stoletja porušili mestno obzidje in ga Ljubljana's city walls were torn down. Paving of the square began in sredi 19. stoletja tlakovali. Ob izravnavi prostora pred cerkvijo je the mid-19th century. When the space in front of the church was ta dobila stopnišče, ki so ga Ljubljančani poimenovali Pri Devici levelled, this Baroque-style beauty got its staircase. Citizens of Mariji na štengcah. Na mestu obzidja so zrasle nove ulice in trgi, Ljubljana named it "At Virgin's Mary on staircases" (Pri Devici Mariji namesto lesenega so leta 1842 zgradili kamnit most. Arhitekt na štengcah). At the place where City Walls used to stand new streets Maks Fabiani je ob bok frančiškanske cerkve načrtoval and squares were built and instead of the wooden bridge in 1842, a new Miklošičevo ulico, Camillo Sitte pa je razširil in poravnal stone bridge was built. Architect Maks Fabiani designed nearby the Stritarjevo ulico. Franciscan church a new Miklošič's Road and Camillo Sitte enlarged and levelled Stritar's street. Gabariti novih historičnih in secesijskih stavb so bili poravnani z vencem baročne cerkve, trg pa je dobil palače, ki še danes Sizes of new historical and secession style buildings were measured to krasijo srce Ljubljane: Frischevo (zelena vogalna na Čopovi), be the same as Geison of the Baroque style church. Square was beautified Seunigovo in Mayerjevo palačo (danes Centralna lekarna), prvo by palaces that stand in Ljubljana even today: Frisch's, Seunig’s and ljubljansko veleblagovnico Urbanc (Centromerkur) in Mayer’s palace (today the Central pharmacy), department store Urbanc Hauptmannovo hišo (stolpič) ter tik pred drugo svetovno vojno and Hauptmann's house with the tower. After the WW1 also Mayer's še Mayerjevo veleblagovnico na mestu nekdanje Lassnikove department store was added next to it. After 1901 through the square hiše. Leta 1901 je čez trg stekla proga ljubljanskega tramvaja, leta an electric tram line was made and four years later a monument in 1905 pa je bil postavljen spomenik slovitemu slovenskemu honour of the famous poet France Prešeren was unveiled. It is a work pesniku Francetu Prešernu. Spomenik je delo arhitekta Maksa of architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajec, which shows the Fabianija in kiparja Ivana Zajca, ki prikazuje Prešerna in nad poet and above him a muse of poetry with a laurel leaf in her hand. njim muzo pesništva z lovorovo vejico v roki. Podoba gole muze Naked muse was the subject of several critics from both clergy and local je naletela na veliko kritik s katoliškega dela družbe in politike. politicians. 22 Tromostovje / Triple bridge 23 Srednjeveški most se je imenoval Spodnji most ali Špitalski, ob A bridge from the Middle Ages was called Lower or Špital bridge. In svoji prvi omembi leta 1280 pa je bil v listini zapisan kot »na 1280 it was first mentioned in the charter by the name »on the corner okljuku ležeči Stari most«. Špitalski most je bil prvi most zgrajen located Old bridge«. The Špital bridge was the first bridge built in the po antiki, zaradi izjemne strateške lege, povezoval je Italijo z city after antiquity. Because of its strategically important location, Ogrsko in srednjo Evropo z Balkanom, pa je veljal za connecting Italy with Hungarian lands and Central Europe with the najpomembnejši prehod čez Ljubljanico. Na njem so stoletja Balkan peninsula, it was considered to be the most important passage mestni vratarji pobirali mostnino. Preko mostu je vodila across Ljubljanica. For centuries on it, the bridge toll was collected by vijugasta in stara Špitalska ulica, danes Stritarjeva ulica. the city's gatekeepers. Across the bridge curving and old Špital Street was heading to the town, today known as Stritar's street. Leta 1657 so ognjeni zublji uničili most, Ljubljančani pa so hitro postavili novega in mu dodali prodajne lope, ki so jih uporabljali In 1657 fires destroyed the bridge, but citizens of Ljubljana soon built a kramarji, strugarji, glavničarji in celo slaščičar. Leta 1786 so bile new one with sales cabins, which were used by merchants, turners, comb podrte kolibe na obeh straneh mosta, prav tako pa tudi Špitalska makers, and even a confectioner. In 1786 the Špital gates and sales vrata. Leta 1841 je bil postavljen nov most iz rezanega kamna, cabins on both sides of the bridge were torn down. In the year 1842, a načrt zanj je izdelal Giovanni Picco. Most so poimenovali v čast new stone arch bridge was made, by the plans of architect Giovanni nadvojvode Franca Karla (Frančev most), današnje Cankarjevo Picco. It was named in honour of archduke Franz Karl (Franciscan nabrežje pa je dobilo ime Frančevo. Zaradi naraščajočega bridge) and today’s Cankar’s embankment got the name after the same prometa je kasneje mestna oblast most želela porušiti, vendar ga archduke. Because of too much traffic after the First World War city je arhitekt Jože Plečnik v tridesetih letih 20. stoletja rešil z authorities wanted to destroy the bridge, but the 19th century design genialno idejo Tromostovja. Osrednjemu mostu je dodal was saved by the architect Jože Plečnik in the early thirties of the dodatna dva mostova, ki sta razbremenila promet, z previous century by the genius idea of transforming it into the Triple balustradami pa je približal mesto Ljubljanici in likovno bridge. He added two additional footbridges to the central one, which opozoril na beneške vplive, ki mesto že stoletja oplajajo. relieved the traffic. With balustrades, he connected the city and its river and reminded its citizens of Venetian influences, which have been present in Ljubljana for centuries. 24 Kresija in Filipov dvorec / Kresija and Filip's mansion 25 Namesto treh patidenčnih hiš je po ljubljanskem potresu leta Instead of three nursing homes, after the 1895 earthquake by the 1895 zrasel nov monumentalen vhod v staro mestno jedro s suggestions of urbanist Camillo Sitte a new entrance to the old city core poravnano Stritarjevo ulico, pogledom na Robbov vodnjak in was created with the levelled Stritar's street and a view of the Robba's Ljubljanski grad, kot je predlagal urbanist Camillo Sitte. Na fountain and the Ljubljana castle. On the location of the old city's mestu nekdanjega meščanskega špitala je zrasla stavba Kresije hospital, the Kresija (head of district administration office) building, or (sedež kresijskega ali okrožnega urada) oziroma poslopje the building of the treasury of bourgeoisie’s property was constructed. zaklada meščanske imovine in Filipov dvorec na drugi strani Philip’s Mansion was built on the other side of the street. Both buildings ulice. Obe stavbi je projektiral graški arhitekt Leopold Theyer v were designed in Neo-Renaissance style by an architect from Graz neorenesančnem slogu. Leopold Theyer. Stoletja dolgo so bila nabrežja neurejena, zato je Ljubljanica For centuries the city's embankments were in bad shape so the river neredko poplavljala. Že od 16. stoletja naprej si je mestna oblast Ljubljanica was often flooding. From the 16th century onwards city prizadevala rečno strugo urediti. Z regulacijskimi deli nabrežij authorities tried to improve the condition of a streambed. Regulation Ljubljanice so v mestnem središču pričeli leta 1908 in po štirih works on Ljubljanica's embankments started in the city's centre in 1908. letih še z poglabljanjem rečne struge. Prve načrte je leta 1912 Four years later they also started with the reconstruction of the izdelal arhitekt Alfred Keller, ki je reko umestil v betonsko streambed. The first plans were made in 1912 by the architect Alfred korito, zaradi prve svetovne vojne pa je delo zastalo. Kasneje se Keller, who placed the river on the concrete streambed, but because of je z urejanjem nabrežij ukvarjal Jože Plečnik. Prav slednji je the First World War project was not implemented. His work was oblikoval Tromostovje kot pahljačasti kompleks treh mostov na continued by Jože Plečnik. The architect designed the Triple Bridge in okljuku Ljubljanice po vzoru beneškega Canal Grande. Na the shape of the Hand Fan complex of Three Bridges on the corner of spodnji terasi starega mostu je ob Prešernovem trgu zasadil Ljubljanica, reminding us of Venice's Canal Grande. On the lower topole v spomin na srednjeveška Špitalska vrata in slavnostni terrace of the old bridge near the Prešeren's square, he planted Populus vstop v staro mestno jedro. trees, reminding us of Medieval Spittal gates and the ceremonial entrance to the old town core. 26 Rotovž / Town hall 27 Mestna hiša (Rotovž, Magistrat) je odraz večstoletne mestne Ljubljana's Town Hall is a reflection of the city's centuries-old avtonomije, edinstven arhitekturni spomenik, svečan prostor autonomy, a unique monument of architecture, a festive place for the razpravljanja Mestnega sveta ter domovanje najvišje mestne debates in the City Council, and a home for the highest municipal oblasti in uprave z županom na čelu. Kako pomembna je bila authorities with the mayor at its head. The importance of the building Mestna hiša v zgodovini Ljubljane, nam že več kot 500 let is reflected in the more than 500 years old spatial arrangement on the zgovorno priča prostorska umestitev na trgu, saj njeno osrednje square. Its central façade with the staircase and arcades stands out in pročelje s stopniščem in arkadami gospodovalno izstopa iz style from the aligned facade line. It stands out additionally with its poravnane fasadne linije, dodatno pa je poudarjena v višino s height with the pentagonal tower and the town hall’s clock. peterokotnim stolpom z uro. Today's Town Hall is created from five different houses. The oldest and Današnji Rotovž je dejansko sestavljen iz petih hiš. Najstarejši in central part was built in 1484 and was enlarged through the centuries. osrednji del je bil postavljen leta 1484, skozi stoletja povečan, leta In 1718 its Baroque elements were added and in 1898 it got its current 1718 barokiziran in leta 1898 predelan v današnjo podobo. look. First Town Hall originally had only one space, the city's Prvotni Rotovž je imel sprva samo en prostor, mestno consulting room – the court hall. Peter Bezlaj (Petrus de Lubiana) posvetovalnico oziroma sodno dvorano. Stavbo je po vzoru designed the building looking up to the style of Italian Patrician (noble) italijanskih mestnih patricijskih palačah postavil Peter Bezlaj. palaces. The exterior was decorated with paintings and the statues of Poslikano zunanjščino sta dopolnjevala vogalna kipa Adama in Adam and Eve on both corners, made by sculptor Janez Lipec. By Eve kiparja Janeza Lipca. Po ljudskem verovanju je moral vsak, popular spiritual belief, each person who arrived in Ljubljana for the ki je prvič prispel v mesto, simbolno poljubiti Evo, simbol first time had to kiss Eve, at the time a symbol of the city. Ljubljane. Near the central building in 1548 on the site of the old roman quarry, Ob osrednji stavbi so leta 1548 na mestu nekdanjega rimskega they erected a building in which a big hall of the municipality's citizens kamnoloma postavili zgradbo, v kateri je bila velika dvorana was located. In 1649 they bought the building next door – Čavelj's občine meščanov. Leta 1649 so od jezuitov odkupili še sosednjo house. In that house, already in the 18th century, a theatre hall was Čavljevo hišo. V tej hiši je bila že v 18. stoletju prva stalna located. The building on the right (Dolničar's house) was acquired by gledališka dvorana v Ljubljani. Desni trakt (Dolničarjeva hiša) je the city only in the year 1891. mestna oblast odkupila šele leta 1891. Although city authorities wished in the 19th century only to reconstruct Čeprav si je mestna oblast v 18. stoletju želela prenoviti le glavno the main facade, by the order of the Region's governor (Duke), the fasado, je bila po deželnoknežjem nalogu osrednja stavba leta central building was completely torn down in 1717. The first proposal 1717 v celoti porušena. Prvo maketo nove stavbe je na podlagi for the new building was made by Friulian architect Carlo Martinuzzi, odobrene skice izdelal furlanski arhitekt Carlo Martinuzzi, but it was finished by local builder Gregor Maček. dokončal pa jo je stavbenik Gregor Maček. 28 Ljubljanski grad / Ljubljana castle 29 Na griču sredi Ljubljanske kotline že stoletja stoji mogočen On the hill in the middle of Ljubljana Valley for centuries a magnificent srednjeveški grad s snežno belim neorenesančnem stolpom iz medieval castle with snow white mid-19th century Neo-Renaissance sredine 19. stoletja. Dominantna podoba gradu se je vtisnila v tower is located. Its dominant position became one of the city’s symbols. podobo mesta, zato so mu meščani namenili častno mesto, Its citizens gave it a place of honour, at first in stamps and later also in sprva v pečatu kasneje pa za stalno v mestnem grbu. Prve pisne the city's coat of arms, where we can find it even now. The first written omembe Ljubljane kot srednjeveškega naselja segajo v 12. mentions about the existence of Ljubljana date back to the 12th century stoletje, ko je Rudolf iz Tarcenta podaril oglejskemu kapitlju when Rudolf from Tarcento presented a small estate near the Ljubljana manjšo posest pri Ljubljanskem gradu. Ljubljana se je v pisnih castle to the Patriarch of Aquileia. Ljubljana is first mentioned in virih omenja sprva kot Laibach med letoma 1112 in 1125, nato pa written sources by the German term Laibach, between 1112 and 1125. leta 1144 v listini oglejskega patriarha Pelegrina I. v slovensko-In 1144 in the charter of Pellegrino I. - Patriarch of Aquileia, the city is romanski obliki Luwigana (fonetično Lubijana). mentioned in its Slavic-Romanic form Luwigana (phonetically Lubijana). V 15. stoletju je dobil Ljubljanski grad podobo, kot jo poznamo še danes. Ta je delo takratnega mestnega gospoda ljubljanskega In the 15th Century, the castle got the shape we still know today. It is a in gospodarja gradu, deželnega kneza in kasnejšega cesarja work from Frederick III. - city lord, owner of the castle, archduke of the Friderika III., prvega Habsburžana na cesarskem prestolu Carniola region, and first Holy Roman Emperor from the line of the Svetega rimskega cesarstva. Gradbeni mojstri so stari grad Habsburgs. Castle builders destroyed the old Spanheim’s castle almost plemiške družine Spanheim porušili do temeljev in na ravnem entirely and on the flat plateau built a completely new castle, although platoju zgradili povsem nov grad, vendar s tradicionalnim with the traditional irregular floor plan of a late medieval fortress. nepravilnim tlorisom poznosrednjeveške utrdbe. Povezali so They connected the castle walls with towers on each corner and added obzidje z vogalnimi stolpi, zgradili Peterokotni stolp, ki je a Pentagonal tower which was the entrance to the castle; it had a povezoval zunanjost z dvižnim mostom nad obrambnim drawbridge and a defensive moat. They also built a castle chapel, jarkom ter zgradili grajsko kapelo, ki je bila posvečena dedicating it to Christian patron Saint George – the Dragon slayer. krščanskemu zavetniku svetemu Juriju, ubijalcu zmaja. V Over the next two centuries, several other buildings were built in the naslednjih dveh stoletjih so postopno nastale še ostale grajske castle's courtyard, which forms the present image of the castle's stavbe na dvorišču, ki tvorijo sedanjo podobo grajskega enterprise. Except for its military purposes, the castle also served as a poslopja. Grad je bil poleg vojaške trdnjave nekaj časa prostor place of meetings for the nobility and the seat of the region's governors. srečevanj deželnih stanov in sedež deželnih glavarjev, v In the city's tower, the Trumpeteers were residing together with mestnem stolpu so bivali piskači in protipožarni čuvaji. V 20. firefighter guards. In the 20th century the Municipality of Ljubljana stoletju je lastnica gradu postala mestna občina, ki ga je tudi became the owner of the castle and is renovating it regularly. prenovila. 30 Mestni trg / Town square 31 Mestni trg ali Mesto je prvi del srednjeveške Ljubljane, ki je bilo Town (City) square on the Town (City) was the first district of medieval že na začetku ustanovljeno s statusom mesta neposredno pod Ljubljana, which already at the beginning had city rights and was built fevdalnim gradom. Zgrajeno je bilo že pred letom 1220, ko se directly below the feudalist castle. It was built before the year 1220 prvič omenja, saj arheološki ostanki datirajo v obdobje okoli leta when it was first mentioned in documents, causing archaeological 1000. Mestni trg je spadal pod šentpetrsko prafaro in bilo remains to date back to the period around the year 1000. The town povezano z območjem ob sedanji Trubarjevi ulici do cerkve sv. square was a part of St. Peter's old parish and was connected with the Petra. Mestni trg je v osnovi razširjena ulica med Starim trgom part of the city near today's Trubar's road heading to the Church of St. in Ciril Metodovim trgom. Večinoma so ga naseljevali bogati Peter. The town square is based on an enlarged street between Old and ljubljanski trgovci in rokodelci, na katere še vedno spominjajo Saint Cyril and Methodius squares. It was mostly inhabited by rich bližnje ulice, ki vodijo prečno do Ljubljanice. Končno podobo je merchants and craftsmen from Ljubljana. Nearby streets heading from trg dobil v času baroka, delne prezidave hiš v tri nadstropne pa the Town square towards the Ljubljanica river still remind us of them so potekale vse do konca 19. stoletja. even today. During the times of Baroque, the square got its current look, and partial renovations of houses, turning them into three-floor Osrednji del trga je nekdaj zavzemal Kumersteinerjev zlat kip buildings were happening till the end of the 19th century. Neptuna. Na njegovem mestu vse od leta 1751 stoji Vodnjak treh kranjskih rek, bolj znan kot Robbov vodnjak, ki ga je po naročilu The central part of the square was in the past beautified by mestnih oblasti izdelal beneški mojster in meščan Ljubljane Kumersteiner's golden statue of the God Neptune. On its location in the Francesco Robba. Kamniti vodnjak je eden najpomembnejših year 1751 Fountain of the Three rivers was built, also known as Robba's baročnih spomenikov na Slovenskem in simbol mesta fountain. It was made upon the order of city authorities by Venetian Ljubljana. Sestavljajo ga globok bazen na visokem stopničastem sculptor and resident of Ljubljana, Francesco Robba. The stone statue podstavku v obliki trilista (oblika ljubljanskega pečata), trije is one of the most important Baroque monuments in the whole Slovene poosebljeni rečni bogovi kranjskih rek in obelisk. ethnic area and a symbol of Ljubljana. It consists of a deep shell-shaped pool and a high staircase pedestal in a shape of a trefoil (design of Ljubljana's stamp), three personified gods of Carniola's rivers, and an obelisk. 32 Čevljarski most / Cobblers' bridge 33 Na stičišču treh mestnih predelov, Mestnega, Starega in Novega At the junction of three city districts – Town, Old and New squares, trga, je že leta 1280 stal lesen most, ki je zaradi toka Ljubljanice since the year 1280 a wooden bridge was located. Because of the flow dobil ime Zgornji oziroma Novi most. Nedaleč stran je stala of the Ljubljanica river, it got the name Upper or New bridge. Not far Tranča, prvi mestni komun, upravno središče srednjeveške away from it »Tranča« was located. It was the Town's commune and Ljubljane, vse dokler niso konec 15. stoletja zgradili Rotovž na administrational centre of Ljubljana, all the way till the construction Mestnem trgu, Tranča pa je nato postala zapor. Dvonadstropno of the Town Hall on the Town square in the late 15th century. Later it poslopje je stalo na oboku med sosednjima stavbama vse do was turned into a prison. A two-floor building used to stand there on konca 18. stoletja. Na nekdanjo slovito stavbo danes spominja the vault between two neighbouring buildings till the end of the 18th samo še ime Pod Trančo. century. Term and a small city street "Pod Trančo" (Below Tranča) remind us of the famous building even today. Na mostu so bile prodajalne mesarjev, trgovcev in obrtnikov. Leta 1614 so postavili nov lesen most po načrtu Petra Peliorinija, On the bridge shops of butchers, merchants and craftsmen were located. ki so ga ob straneh krasile kramarske lope. Ker je bilo največ In the year 1614, a new wooden bridge was created by the plans of Peter obrtnikov čevljarjev, je dobil ime Čevljarski ali (iz nemščine) Peliorini, who put the hawker's sheds on the bridge. Because the Šuštarski most. Most je sicer izhajal iz Mestnega trga in je majority of the craftsmen were cobblers, the bridge got the name pomenil za Ljubljano eno glavnih vozlišč mestnih poti. Zgrajen Cobblers or from the German language (Schusterbrücke) Šuštarski most. pa je bil na mestu, kjer se Ljubljanica najbolj približa Grajskemu It was one of the main transport nodes in the city and was connected to griču, ni pa bil utrjen, saj so ga varovale utrdbe Novega trga in the Town square. It was built at the location where the Ljubljanica znamenita Vodna vrata na Prulah. V 19. stoletju je postal river gets closest to Castle hill. It was not fortified, because fortifications prenevaren, zato so na njegovem mestu leta 1867 postavili prvi at the New square and famous Watergates in the Prule district were litoželezni most v Avstriji, ki so ga po delih izdelali v železarni protecting it. In the 19th century, it became too dangerous, so in 1867 kneza Auersperga v Dvoru pri Žužemberku. Kasneje je bil zaradi the first cast-iron bridge in Austria was built in its place. It was novega Plečnikovega mosta v obliki trga prestavljen k constructed in the ironworks facilities of Counts of Auersperg in Dvor porodnišnici, danes pa povezuje Krakovo in Žabjak pri izlivu near Žužemberk. Later it was moved because of the new Plečnik's bridge Gradaščice v Ljubljanico. on the location of the maternity ward. Today it is connecting Krakovo and Žabjak districts where the Gradaščica river merges with Ljubljanica. 34 Stari trg / Old square 35 Že pred prihodom Rimljanov je bilo območje pod Grajskim Even before the arrival of the Romans, the area below the castle hill was gričem poseljeno in urbanistično urejeno s tlakovanimi potmi inhabited and was urbanistically arranged with paved paths and in stanovanjskimi otoki. Ob njem je nastal najprej rimski vojaški residential areas. Nearby it, a Roman military camp was located and tabor, kasneje na drugem bregu Ljubljanice pa pravokotno on the other side of Ljubljanica was the Perpendicular city of Emona. obzidano mesto Emona. Po propadu rimskega mesta je na istem After the demise of the Roman city in the same area below the hill a območju pod gričem nastal Trg s sejemsko pravico (1243), ki je Square came into existence and acquired trading rights in 1243. It later kasneje dobil ime Stari trg. Čeprav je bil trg po nastanku got its current name – Old Square. Although it was the oldest in the najstarejši del srednjeveškega mesta, je obzidje dobil šele v 16. town it was fortified by city walls only in the 16th century. stoletju. Even in the Middle Ages, a mighty Linden tree used to stand on the Old Že v srednjem veku je na Starem trgu stala mogočna lipa, pod Square, below which the residents of Ljubljana were gathering and katero so se meščani zbirali, prirejali plese in od koder je dancing. At that location, a fairy tale character The Water Man bajeslovno bitje iz Ljubljanice Povodni mož odpeljal Urško v (Povodni mož) took a local lady Urška into the depths of the Ljubljanica globine reke. Ob lipi je stal baročni vodnjak s kipom Herkula z river. Close to the Linden tree a Baroque-style fountain with the statue levom, ki pa je bil zaradi ukinjenega vodovoda z Golovca konec of Hercules with the lion used to stand. It was demolished in the late 18. stoletja podrt. V devetdesetih letih 20. stoletja se je mestna 18th century after the Water Supply system from Golovec hill was torn oblast odločila rekonstruirati vodnjak na podlagi Valvasorjeve down. In the nineties of the previous century, authorities decided to upodobitve. reconstruct the fountain, designing it upon illustrations of Carniolan natural historian Janez Vajkard Valvasor. 36 Šentjakobska cerkev in Levstikov trg / Church of St. James and Levstik square 37 Kaplanija sv. Jakoba se omenja prvič leta 1383, v 15. stoletju pa so The Chaplaincy of Saint James was first mentioned in 1383 and it was cerkev prevzeli bosonogi avguštinci. S prihodom jezuitov v taken over in the 15th century by Discalced Augustinians. With the Ljubljano se je okoli cerkve v začetku 17. stoletja oblikoval arrival of the Jesuits to the town at the beginning of the 17th century, a jezuitski kompleks. Cerkev sv. Jakoba je bila večkrat prezidana, Jesuit complex was formed around the church. The Church of St. James baročna notranjost je ena prvih primerov jezuitske dvoranske was rebuilt several times. Its Baroque interior is one of the first cerkve s stranskimi kapelami. Po požaru leta 1774 so kolegij examples of Jesuit Hall churches with side chapels. After the fire in 1774 podrli, gimnazijsko stavbo pa leta 1786 preuredili v reduto college was torn down and two years later Gymnasium school was oziroma dvorano za ples, razstave, prostozidarsko ložo in druge rearranged to serve as a hall for dances, exhibitions, freemasons lounge, družabne dogodke. Ob potresu leta 1895 so zvonika znižali, ob and other social events. After the 1895 earthquake the church's exterior strani pa je bil zgrajen nov visok zvonik. Avtor predelane was renovated by the architect Raimund Jeblinger. Also, two church zunanjosti je bil arhitekt Raimund Jeblinger. bells were lowered and beside it, a new bell on a higher elevation was added. Vse od leta 1682 stoji na trgu Marijino znamenje, za katerega je naredil osnutek Janez Vajkard Valvasor. Slednji je iznašel Since 1682 on the square a St. Mary's Column has been located. The postopek tudi za ulivanje tankostenskih kipov, ki ga je uporabil Original was designed by Janez Vajkard Valvasor. He also invented a za Marijin kip. Svojo iznajdbo je opisal v vodilni londonski in process for casting thin-walled sculptures, which he used for the leipziški reviji, s tem pa velja za prvega mednarodno priznanega construction of Mary's statue. He described his invention in leading izumitelja iz slovenskih krajev. Današnjo podobo je trg dobil v magazines in London and Leipzig and is considered as the first 20. stoletju, potem ko ga je leta 1926 preoblikoval arhitekt Jože internationally recognized inventor from the Slovene ethnic lands. Plečnik, in dvanajst let kasneje rekonstruiral še Marijin steber. Square got its current look in the 20th century after it was redesigned Levstikov trg je bil urbanistično porušen v šestdesetih letih, ko by architect Jože Plečnik in 1926. Twelve years later he also so skozi hiše speljali novo Karlovško cesto za avtomobile. reconstructed Mary's column. Levstik square was urbanistically torn down in the sixties of the 20th century when the new Karlovac road (Karlovška Cesta) was being constructed for automobiles. 38 Trnovo 39 Trnovo je eno izmed najstarejših ljubljanskih predmestij. Prav Trnovo is one of the oldest suburbs of Ljubljana. Brave boatmen from pogumni trnovski čolnarji so bili tisti, ki so se od 13. do konca 18. Trnovo were the ones who were embarking on endeavours on »green stoletja ukvarjali s plovbo po zeleni Ljubljanici in prevažali blago Ljubljanica« from the late 13th to 18th century and transported goods ter ljudi med Vrhniko in ljubljanskim pristaniščem na Bregu. and people between Vrhnika and Ljubljana's shipyard at Breg Mali in veliki čolnarji so se združevali v bratovščine s embankment. Bigger and smaller boatmen were merging into cehovskimi privilegiji. Trnovčani so že konec 18. stoletja dobili brotherhoods with guild privileges. Citizens of Trnovo got the first prvo baročno cerkev, ki je bila sredi 19. stoletja na novo sezidana Baroque church already in the late 19th century. The church was in po velikonočnem potresu leta 1895 prezidana. Znamenita renovated in the mid-19th century and rebuilt after the 1895 trnovska farna cerkev je znana po prvem snidenju največjega earthquake. The Famous Trnovo parish church is known for its first slovenskega pesnika dr. Franceta Prešerna in njegove muze meeting between the greatest Slovene poet dr. France Prešeren and his Julije Primic leta 1833 in pesmi Trnovo, kraj nesrečnega imena. muse Julija Primic in the year 1833 and his poem Trnovo, place of an unhappy name. Najvidnejši sosed cerkve je bil arhitekt Jože Plečnik, ki je Ljubljano tako rekoč gradil kot zgodbo iz svoje hiše na Karunovi. The most prominent neighbour of the church was architect Jože Plečnik, Uredil je nabrežja Gradaščice, kjer otroci vsako leto na who was building Ljubljana like a fairy tale from his home on Gregorjevo spuščajo ladjice po starem ljubljanskem običaju, Karunova street. He beautified the embankments of Gradaščica river, postavil Petelinjo brv, uredil perišče za bizoviška dekleta in where the children every year on St. Gregory's Day by the old Ljubljana nekdanji trnovski pristan spremenil v prijetno sprehajalno pot z tradition send small boats along the river. In the same place, he built vrbami. Leta 1931 je postavil nov trnovski most, mogočno Petelinja brv (Rooster's footbridge), and rebuilt areas for laundry betonsko konstrukcijo z obloženim podpeškim apnencem, ki s washing which ladies from Bizovik village were using. He also svojo dvajsetmetrsko širino, štirimi vogalnimi piramidami, beautified the former Trnovski pristan (dock), turning it into a pleasant obeliskom in kipom sv. Janeza Krstnika (zavetnik trnovske fare) walking path decorated with Willows. In 1931 he erected a new Trnovo spreminja most v trg ter prostor srečevanja. Posebnost v bridge, mighty concrete construction with coated limestone from evropski tradiciji gradnji mostov pa mu daje edinstven brezov Podpeč. The bridge is 20m wide, and it has four pyramids on the drevored. corners, an obelisk, and a statue of Saint John the Baptist (protector of Trnovo church) and turned the bridge into a meeting place for the district's residents. Its uniqueness in the European tradition of bridge building is birch avenue on the bridge. 40 Križanke 41 Kompleks Križank je postopoma nastajal na levem bregu Križanke complex was gradually evolving on the left side of the Ljubljanice na Novem trgu, ki se je razvil ob ugodni legi poleg Ljubljanica river on the New square. It had a good location, near the stare rimske ceste, ob vzhodnem delu emonskega obzidja old Roman road, on the east side of Emona's city walls. On the opposite nasproti amfiteatra ter v bližini Neptunovega templja, odkritega side was the Roman amphitheatre and in its vicinity was Neptune's v 17. stoletju. Na območju Križank je sprva stalo Spanheimovo temple, which was discovered in the 17th century. In the area of pridvorno gospodarsko središče zemljiškogosposkega Križanke, the first rulers of medieval Ljubljana – the Spanheim family kompleksa, leta 1167 pa so se tod naselili vitezi templjarji, ki so built an economic centre of the landowner's complex. In the year 1167, konec 12. stoletja zgradili romansko cerkev. Njihovo ljubljansko the area was settled by the Templar knights, who built a Romanesque-posest je pred letom 1228 prevzel ustanovljeni Nemški viteški style church in the late 12th century. Their estate was taken over in red. Ti so po letu 1260 postavil novo gotsko cerkev. V 14. stoletju 1228 by the German Teutonic Knights. They were the ones who in 1260 sta bili prizidani stranski kapeli, s čimer je cerkev dobila obliko erected a new Gothic church. In the 14th century, two side chapels were grškega križa, nad stropom pa se je dvigoval visok stolp. V added to the church, with which the church got a shape of a Greek cross. okviru samostana je bila postavljena šola in bolnišnica (špital). Also, above the ceiling, a large tower was erected. School and hospital (Spittal) were established on the premises of the monastery. Največjo prezidavo je samostan doživel v 18. stoletju, ko je v redovni hiši nastala svečana Viteška dvorana, namesto gotske The biggest reconstruction of the monastery happened in the 18th cerkve pa je v slogu beneškega baroka zrasla nova cerkev Device century. Festive Knight's Hall was built and instead of the old Gothic Marije pomočnice. V samostanu so v 19. stoletju prirejali church in the style of Venetian Baroque a new Our Lady the Helper koncerte Filharmoničnega društva, v njem je delovalo tudi church was erected. In the 19th century concerts of the Philharmonics, sodišče z zapori. Po drugi svetovni vojni je samostanski society was taking place in the monastery. In it also the courthouse with kompleks arhitekt Jože Plečnik kot svoje zadnje veliko delo prisons was located. After the Second World War architect, Jože preuredil v osrednje koncertno prizorišče Ljubljanskega Plečnik turned the monastery into a concert venue for the Ljubljana festivala. festival. It was his last major work before his death. 42 Vegova ulica / Vegova street 43 Predhodnica sodobne Ljubljane je bila rimska Emona, ki skriva The Roman city of Emona was a predecessor of modern Ljubljana. Its svoje arheološke ostanke le nekaj centimetrov pod pločniki in archaeological secrets are being revealed till the modern days and are cestami. Nekdanje poimenovanje Vegove ulice, ki je do leta 1877 hiding just a few centimetres below the town's sidewalks and streets. nosila ime Dolnje Gradišče, opozarja ravno na antične ostaline. Vegova street, which was in 1877 named Dolnje Gradišče (Lower Ulica leži na zahodnem robu rimskega obzidja, pod katerim so construction site), reminds us of these ancient relics. The street is located potekali odtočni kanalizacijski kanali. Ena od kloak preko katere on the western edge of the old Roman walls, below which the drain so se zlivali telesni izločki in deževnica v Ljubljanico, pa je še sewer canals were located. One of the Roman sewers across which danes vidna na Vegovi ulici. V srednjem veku je tod potekalo rainwater and Human excrements were going to the Ljubljanica river obzidje Novega trga, ki je varovalo mestni predel ob Ljubljanici. is still seeable today on Vegova's street. In the Middle Ages in that location city walls used to stand which protected the urban areas near Območje ulice je že pred stoletji slovelo po številnih gostilnah, Ljubljanica. v eni izmed njih pa je konec 17. stoletja delovala Obrezova pivovarna. Po odstranitvi mestnega obzidja se je mesto začelo The area around the street was famous for centuries for its numerous počasi širiti tudi v ta predel. Leta 1897 je Albin Belar v guesthouses. One of them was even housing a brewery (Obrez's brewery) neoromanski stavbi Višje realke na Vegovi ulici ustanovil in the late 17th century. After the destruction of the city walls, Ljubljana potresno opazovalnico, prvo v habsburški monarhiji. Vse do leta started merging with this area. In 1897 Albin Belar created a seismic 1899, ko so porušili bližnji vicedomski dvorec, je bil ob Vegovi observatory, the first in the whole Habsburg state. It was located in a ulici še manjši grajski ali mestni vrt. Arhitekt Jože Plečnik je Neo-Romanesque building where School was located (German kopensko urbanistično os gradil iz Trnovega do Kongresnega Oberrealschule). Until the year 1899 when a nearby Vicedomian trga in prav na Vegovi ulici je nekaj njegovih najpomembnejših mansion was demolished, close to Vegova street a smaller city garden del (Križanke, Ilirski steber na Trgu francoske revolucije, was located. Architect Jože Plečnik decided to connect the Trnovo Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica). Plečnik je Vegovo ulico district and the Congress square with an urban axis directly on the oblikoval kot kulturno alejo z bustami slovenskih skladateljev. location of Vegova street. On it, some of his most famous works in Ljubljana are located (Križanke, Illyrian column on French Revolution square, National and University Library). He also beautified the street as a cultural alley with busts of Slovene and Yugoslav composers. 44 Deželni dvorec in Univerza / Provincial mansion and university 45 Na prostoru današnjega sedeža Univerze v Ljubljani je med 15. On the location of the current site of the University of Ljubljana in 18. stoletjem stal Vicedomski dvorec, sedež vicedoma, between the 15th and 19th centuries, a Vicedomian mansion was namestnika deželnega kneza in upravitelja deželnoknežjega located. It was the headquarters of the deputy of the Duke of the premoženja na Kranjskem. Dvorec je bil do 18. stoletja na robu Province (Carniola) and administrator of the Duke's properties in the srednjeveškega obrambnega sistema Novega trga, ki je obsegal Carniola region. Mansion was until the 18th century located on the obzidni jarek z vodo, okrogli vodni stolp ob Ljubljanici in edge of the medieval system of fortification on the New Square. It Vicedomska (fištamska) vrata ter obzidje vzdolž Vegove ulice. Z consisted of the town's moat connected with defensive city walls, round upravnimi spremembami je dvorec v 18. stoletju postal sedež shaped Water Tower near the Ljubljanica river, and Vicedomian doors kranjske deželne vlade, deželnega zbora in deželnega glavarja. along Vegova street. With administrative changes, the mansion became Dvonadstropno baročno stavbo je velikonočni potres leta 1895 in the 18th century the headquarters of the government of the region of močno poškodoval. Carniola, the region's parliament, and a land governor (Duke). The two-floor Baroque building was badly damaged by the earthquake of Novi deželni dvorec sta v slogu nemške in češke renesanse 1895. postavila češka arhitekta Hráský in Hudetz leta 1902. Fasado krasijo grbi kranjskih mest, na osrednji fasadi pa se dviguje velik The new mansion was constructed in the style of German and Czech grb dežele Kranjske. Z balkona dvorca je bila leta 1918 razglašena renaissance by Czech architects Hráský in Hudetz in the year 1902. The Država SHS, v njeno drugo nadstropje pa se je leto kasneje façade is decorated with coats of arms of Carniolan cities and on the preselila na novo ustanovljena ljubljanska univerza s prostori za central façade, there is a giant Coat of Arms of the Carniola region. pravno in filozofsko fakulteto. Pred dvorcem je manjši trg s From the balcony of the mansion in the year 1918, The State of Slovene, skulpturo Evrope in doprsnimi kipi posameznikov, zaslužnih za Croats, and Serbs was proclaimed and in the following year, the ustanovitev univerze. University of Ljubljana moved into its second floor. It also housed the premises of the newly founded Faculty of Law and Faculty of Arts. In front of the mansion, there is a sculpture of Europe with bust statues of individuals responsible for the foundation and evolution of the University. 46 Kongresni trg in park Zvezda / Congress square and the Star park 47 Kongresni trg s parkom Zvezda je najpomembnejša klasicistična Congress square with its Star park is the most important classical urban urbana kompozicija v središču Ljubljane s pravokotno obliko in composition in the centre of Ljubljana. It has a rectangular shape and vizualno usmerjenostjo proti Ljubljanskemu gradu. Trg je nastal is visually directed towards the Ljubljana castle. The Square was na prostoru zasutega obzidnega jarka rimskega mesta in nanj designed on the area of the former, now filled up defensive moat of the prislonjenega srednjeveškega obzidja. Do leta 1817 je na območju Roman city, on which medieval walls were laid down. Until the year Kongresnega trga stal tudi kapucinski samostan s cerkvijo, v času 1817 in the area of today's square, a Capuchin monastery with a church Ilirskih provinc (1809–1813) pa so imeli Francozi v njem kasarno used to stand. During the time of the Illyrian provinces, the French were s konjušnico in vojaško skladišče. using it as barracks with stables and an army warehouse. Po ponovni vzpostavitvi avstrijske monarhije je bil samostan After the Habsburgs regained the territory, the monastery was porušen, za čas polletnega gostovanja evropske diplomatske in demolished for the half-year Congress of The Holy Alliance in 1821, kraljeve smetane leta 1821 ob kongresu Svete alianse pa so when European diplomats and royalty visited the town. Former razširili nekdanji Kapucinski trg ter ga preuredili v pravokoten Capuchins’ square was renovated and it got its rectangular shape for prostor za vojaške parade, ki je po končanem kongresu dobil military parades after the conferences finished it got its current name – današnje ime Kongresni trg. Leta 1824 so po naročilu župana Congress square. After the directive of mayor Hradeczky in 1824 on the Hradeckega ob trgu zasadili kostanjev drevored, ki se križa v square, an avenue of chestnut trees was added. It has crossings in eight osmih smereh, po čemer je dobil ime Zvezda. Leta 1928 je directions, after which it got the name Star. In 1928 architect Jože arhitekt Jože Plečnik Kongresni trg na novo tlakoval, v parku Plečnik decided that the square needed to be paved again. Chestnuts in Zvezda je kostanje zamenjal s platanami, celotni prostor pa je Star Park were substituted with Platanus trees. The whole area was urbanistično uglasil s povezavo do nabrežja Ljubljanice. urbanistically designed to be connected with the embankments near the Ljubljanica river. 48 Kazina / Casino building 49 Stavba Kazine je povezana z istoimenskim društvom, ki se je v Casino Building is associated with the Casino Society (Slovene - Ljubljani pojavilo že pred letom 1775 in kot prvo v mestu dobilo Kazinsko društvo). Society was functioning in Ljubljana even before kavarniško koncesijo. Po statutu društva je bila Kazina elitno 1775 and was the first one in the city to acquire a concession for hosting zbirališče izbrane ljubljanske visoke družbe za pospeševanje cafeterias. After the societies’ code Casino building was an elite meeting domače trgovine, pravilnega razumevanja izobrazbe in okusa place for the high cases of Ljubljana’s society. Its purposes were ter prirejanje za izobražene kroge primernih zabav. Ker je improving domestic trade, a correct understanding of education, and a članstvo naraščalo, so se odločili za gradnjo lastne stavbe. proper taste in hosting receptions for educated circles of the society. As Gradnja na robu Kongresnega trga je potekala med letoma 1836 the membership continued to rise, they decided the construction of their in 1838 pod vodstvom stavbnega mojstra Venceslava Vadlava. building was necessary. On the edge of the Congress square, under the Palača je bila zgrajena za namene prirejanja elitnih plesov in watchful eye of architect Venceslav Vadlav a building was constructed drugih družabnih prireditev. V dvonadstropni klasicistični between 1836 and 1838. It was built to host elite dances and other palači so delovali kavarna, restavracija, igralne in biljardne sobe, social events. The two-floor palace used to host a cafeteria, restaurant, kadilnici, jedilnici, čitalnici in velika dvorana za 400 oseb. Hitro play, and billiard rooms, smoking areas, dining rooms, reading rooms, je postala središče družabnega življenja višjega sloja prebivalcev and a Great hall for 400 persons. Quickly it became a centre of social mesta. life for the higher classes of Ljubljana’s society. Kazina je ob koncu 19. stoletja postala središče ljubljanskih At the end of the 19th century, the Casino building became an elite Nemcev, zato so se pred stavbo v času napetih slovensko-centre of Ljubljana's Germans. During the turbulent times of nemških odnosov občasno odvijale protinemške demonstracije. Germanic-Slavic (German-Slovene) relations, it was a place of Po razpadu Avstro-Ogrske je vlada stavbo društvu odvzela, leta frequent anti-German demonstrations. After the end of the First World 1921 pa je Kazino prevzela liberalna Jugoslovanska demokratska War, society was stripped of the ownership of the building. In 1921 stranka. Že leta 1918 je najel gostinske prostore v stavbi Fran Yugoslav liberal Democratic party took over the building. Already in Krapeš in jo preuredil. V park Zvezda je postavil nov kovinski the year, 1918 hospitality premises were taken over by Fran Krapeš, gradbeni paviljon, kjer so igrali godbeniki. who renovated it. He also added a new Pavilion made out of iron in the Star Park in which musicians were performing. 50 Predsedniška palača / Presidential palace 51 Ob koncu 19. stoletja so bili uradi deželne vlade raztreseni po At the end of the 19th century offices of the Carniola region were različnih lokacijah in stavbah Ljubljane, zato so v devetdesetih scattered across different locations and buildings in Ljubljana. So, in letih 19. stoletja začeli premišljevati o gradnji povsem nove in the nineties of the 19th century, they started to think about a enotne stavbe izvršne oblasti vojvodine Kranjske. Za projekt so construction of a new unified building of executive power of the Duchy izbrali zemljišče v nekdanjem Souvanem vrtu med Rimsko in of Carniola. The area at the former Souvan gardens between Rimska Erjavčevo cesto. Gradnja se je pričela leta 1896, načrte je izdelal and Erjavčeva roads was designed as a place for the project. inženir Rudolf Bauer, gradila pa jo je Kranjska stavbinska Construction began in 1896 according to plans by engineer Rudolf družba. Palača stoji na pilotih in je bila dokončana spomladi Bauer and it was implemented by the Carniolan construction company. 1897. Fasadni plašč je oblikovan v stilu renesančnih firenških The palace stands on stilts and was finished in the spring of 1897. palač. Façade's coat is designed in the style of the renaissance palaces of Florence. Palača je v preteklosti nosila številna imena, vedno pa so bili v njej prostori državne oblasti v Ljubljani. Tam so bili kranjski In the past the Palace had several different names, but state authorities deželni predstavniki, predstavniki narodne vlade, veliki župani in Ljubljana were always located in it. There the representatives of the ljubljanske oblasti, bani Dravske banovine, palača Izvršnega Carniola region used to work in the Habsburg era, as well as sveta, ustavno sodišče, danes pa ima v njej urad Predsednika representatives of the National government of Slovenia (State of Republike Slovenije in Generalni sekretariat Vlade. Podobni Slovenes, Croat, and Serbs), grand mayors of Ljubljana oblast palači, kjer so bili sedeži deželnih oblasti, stojita danes le še na (Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes), bans (governors) of Drava Dunaju in v Sarajevu. banovina (Kingdom of Yugoslavia), Palace of the Executive council (Socialist period) and Constitutional court (Independent Slovenia). Today it houses the office of the President of the Republic of Slovenia and the General Secretariat of the government. Similar palaces, where the seats of regional governments used to be, were preserved till modern times only in Vienna and Sarajevo. 52 Promenada / Promenade 53 Kratkotrajna francoska okupacija Ljubljane v začetku 19. stoletja Short French occupation of Ljubljana at the beginning of the 19th je v mesto prinesla nove ideje, ki so spodbudile mestno oblast k century brought new ideas to the town, which encouraged city uradni skrbi za javno zelenje. Po vzoru pariškega urbanističnega authorities to start caring about the well-being of Ljubljana's green urejanja je bila zasnovana Blanchardova oziroma areas. Role-model was Parisian urbanistic regulation upon which Lattermannova aleja (dva radialna drevoreda), ki je povezala Blanchards (later Lattermann alley) was designed (two tree avenues). parkovne ureditve Cekinovega gradu in Podturna ter s tem It connected the park's enterprises of the Cekin mansion and Podturn začetek urejanja parka Tivoli. Ljubljanska oblast je v 19. stoletju Manor, which began the history of Tivoli Park. Ljubljana's authorities širila zeleno mestno tkivo, tradicijo sprehajališč in promenad, already in the 19th century started expanding the city's green areas, namenjenih tako družbeni emancipaciji meščanstva kot tudi with which the tradition of pedestrian zones and promenades began. bolj zdravemu urbanemu življenju. Novi javni parki so bili They were meant to represent the social emancipation of the bourgeoisie dokaz moči vzhajajočega meščanskega razreda in so imeli and also to promote a healthy urban lifestyle. New public parks were daljnosežne socialne, psihološke, zdravstvene in ekonomske representing the power of the rising bourgeoisie and had long-lasting učinke. social, psychological, health, and economical effects. Tivolski park je že v času cesarja Franca Jožefa I. in po bivanju During the reign of Emperor Franz Josef I, Tivoli Park was slowly feldmaršala Radetzkega postajal kulturno, zabaviščno, becoming a cultural, entertainment, fair, promenade, and also a sports razvedrilno, sejemsko, promenadno in tudi športno središče centre of Ljubljana's bourgeoisie. Even the famous marshal Radetzky ljubljanskega meščanstva. Tam sta stala letno telovadišče Sokola was residing in it. It was the location of the summer practice area of the in Jakopičev paviljon, prva slovenska umetnostna galerija, v gymnastic society Sokol (Falcon), Jakopič's pavilion, and the first hotelu Tivoli pa je bila sprejeta tivolska resolucija, ki je zahtevala Slovene art gallery. In Hotel Tivoli so-called Tivoli resolution was preobrazbo Avstro-Ogrske na podlagi avtonomije narodov in passed with which transformation of Austria-Hungary was requested popolno združitev vseh Jugoslovanov. Na tivolski zelenici je bil with which all Yugoslavs (South-Slavs) in monarchy would be merged postavljen tudi prvi slovenski velodrom in nogometno igrišče, into one territorial unit. In Tivoli Park first Slovene Velodrome was občasno cirkus, v tridesetih letih 20. stoletja pa je v neposredni located as well as the football (soccer) field. In the thirties of the 20th bližini zraslo še moderno kopališče Ilirija. Vse do šestdesetih let century nearby the park Ilirija swimming pool was constructed and the je bil med meščani razvit običaj sprehajanja za vikend po park sometimes even hosted circus events. Until the sixties of the promenadi med Pošto na vrhu Čopove ulice in Cekinovim previous century urban classes had traditional walks on the weekends gradom v Tivoliju. which lead from the main Post office in the centre of Ljubljana to Cekin's mansion in Tivoli Park. 54 Deželno gledališče / Provincial theatre 55 Leta 1888 se je po katastrofalnem požaru Stanovskega gledališča After the devastating fire in 1888 which destroyed a Theatre on na Kongresnem trgu deželni odbor vojvodine Kranjske odločil Congress square, the committee of Duchy of Carniola decided to erect a postaviti novo gledališče. Izbrali so zemljišče ob današnji new one. They chose an area nearby today’s Cankar’s road, where since Cankarjevi cesti, kjer so se od sredine 19. stoletja znotraj the mid-19th century several modern Vienna, Trieste, and Graz-style pravokotnih karejev ulic gradile sodobne pravokotne rectangular bourgeois buildings were built. Plans were made by Czech meščanske stavbe po vzoru Dunaja, Gradca in Trsta. Načrt za architects Jan Vladimír Hráský in Anton Hruby in the style of the stavbo sta po vzoru italijanske renesanse narisala češka arhitekta Italian renaissance. Industrialist Gustav Tönnies took care of the Jan Vladimír Hráský in Anton Hruby, ljubljanski gradbenik construction in the years 1890-1892. The building was intended for a Gustav Tönnies pa jo je postavil. Gledališka lepotica je bila thousand people and on its four floors, it had 40 lounges. zgrajena med letoma 1890 in 1892. Velikost gledališča je bila zasnovana za tisoč ljudi, v štirih nadstropjih pa je bilo The last show during the opening night of the Theatre on 29th razvrščenih štirideset lož. September 1892 was the play Veronika of Desenice by Josip Jurčič. It is a tragedy play in five acts, which was staged on the floor of the theatre Na otvoritvi 29. septembra 1892 je bila kot zadnja v seriji by the Slovene Dramatic society and directed by Ignacij Borštnik. predstav uprizorjena Jurčičeva Veronika Deseniška – tragedija v Society started working in a new theatre and with that basis, the first petih dejanjih, ki jo je pripravilo slovensko Dramatično društvo Slovene professional theatre was laid down. The building became a v režiji Ignacija Borštnika. Slednje društvo je dobilo domovanje place where drama and opera shows were happening. Opera has v novem gledališču, s tem pa so bili postavljeni tudi temelji permanent conductors, soloists, and a choir. After 1908 musicians at prvega slovenskega poklicnega gledališča. Stavba je postala that time founded Slovene philharmonics and became a theatre domovanje dramskih in opernih predstav. Opera je imela stalne orchestra. Theatre Consortium already trained Slovene opera dirigente, soliste in zbor ter najet orkester, od leta 1908 so bili to performers in seasons 1918-19, who staged French and Italian operas. glasbeniki takrat ustanovljene Slovenske filharmonije. In the spring of that season also the ballet crew joined the Theatre. Gledališki konzorcij je že v sezoni 1918/19 usposobil slovenske Today the building hosts the Slovenian national theatre opera and operne igralce, ki so izvajali francoske in italijanske opere, ballet Ljubljana. spomladi pa so se jim pridružili še baletniki. Danes v stavbi domuje Slovensko narodno gledališče Opera in balet Ljubljana. 56 Tivolski grad / Tivoli castle 57 Palme, agave in cvetlični nasadi nas še danes presenečajo na When we take a look at old postcards, we are surprised to see Palm trees, starih razglednicah lepo oskrbovanega Tivolskega gradu. Nad Agave, and flower plantations on the well-cared Tivoli castle. Above dvorcem je že v 13. stoletju stal stolp Turn, ki je bil porušen, ko the castle, already in the 13th century, a Turn tower stood in the woods. so Ljubljano leta 1442 oblegali Celjski grofje. Pod njim je bil It was destroyed when Ljubljana was besieged by the count of Celje in kasneje sezidan nov grad, ki je dobil ime Podturn. V začetku 17. 1442. Below it later a new castle was built, which got the name Podturn stoletja so ga kupili jezuiti in okolico spremenili v park s (below Turn, English Podturn Manor). At the beginning of the 17th sprehajališčem. Tukaj so uprizarjali tudi gledališke igre in druga century, it was bought by the Jesuits who turned the surrounding area dramska dela. Grad je po razpustitvi jezuitov menjal številne into a park with a promenade. There they staged theatre plays and lastnike, leta 1852 pa je postal lastnik celo sam cesar other drama performances. After the Jesuit order was dissolved the Franc Jožef I. castle changed its ownership several times and in the year 1852, Emperor Franz Josef I. himself became an owner of the castle. Ob upokojitvi legendarnega avstrijskega feldmaršala Josefa grofa Radetzkega, je Tivolski grad z dosmrtnim užitkom postal After his professional retirement, it became a home for the legendary njegovo domovanje. Park in grad je Radetzky, tudi častni Austrian Field Marshal Count Josef Radetzky. He became an meščan Ljubljane, prenovil, pešpoti in zelenje pa so postali honourable citizen of Ljubljana. He renovated the park, and castle, and javno dostopni vsem meščanom. V spomin na njegovo vojaško enlarged the footpaths and green areas, which became publicly udejstvovanje in ljubljansko bivanje so mu Ljubljančani pred accessible for all citizens of Ljubljana. For his military service and gradom postavili celopostavni bronasti kip. above all else for his stay and work in Ljubljana, its citizens even erected a bronze statue in his honour. 58 Sodišče s parkom / Courthouse with the park 59 Slovenski trg oziroma današnji Miklošičev park je nastal leta Slovenian square, known today as Miklošič's park was designed in the 1902 na pobudo župana Ivana Hribarja in deželne vlade, ki je year 1902 upon the initiative of the mayor Ivan Hribar and the hotela imeti pred novozgrajenim klasicističnim sodiščem provincial government, who wanted to have a monumental square in monumentalen trg. Gre za enega redkih secesijskih trgov na front of the newly built classical-style Courthouse. It is one of the few Slovenskem. Po popotresnih urbanističnih zasnovah Maksa Secession-style (Art nouveau) parks in Slovene lands. It was designed Fabianija se, podobno kot vsi ostali ljubljanski trgi, ozira na by the post-earthquake (1895) urbanist plans of Maks Fabiani. Like the Ljubljanski grad, osrednjo urbanistično točko mesta. Okolica majority of Ljubljana's squares, it is looking towards the Ljubljana trga je obzidana z najlepšimi ljubljanskimi palačami v stilu castle, the central urbanistic point of the city. In the surroundings, we secesije. can notice several of the most beautiful Ljubljana secession-style palaces. Leta 1908 je bil v parku postavljen kip cesarja Franca Jožefa I. v zahvalo za obnovo popotresne Ljubljane, ki ga je izdelal kipar The monument of Emperor Franz Josef I. was erected in the park in Svitoslav Peruzzi. Leta 1918 je avstrijskega cesarja v novi 1908. It was a sign of gratitude for the reconstruction of Ljubljana after jugoslovanski državi zamenjal kip velikega slovenskega an earthquake. It was the work of the sculptor Svitoslav Peruzzi. After jezikoslovca Frana Miklošiča izpod rok kiparja Tineta Kosa. the new Yugoslav state was formed in 1918, the Habsburg emperor was substituted by a statue of Slovene linguist Fran Miklošič, which is a work of the sculptor Tine Kos. 60 Kavarna Evropa / Cafe Europe 61 Med znamenitimi in bolj obiskanimi ljubljanskimi družabnimi Among the most famous and most frequently visited social spaces in prostori je bila kavarna Evropa. Staro gostilno je s parcelami leta Ljubljana was Cafe Europe. The Old Inn with surrounding estates was 1867 kupil hotelir in posestnik Luka Tavčar. Stari objekt je podrl, bought in 1867 by the hotelier and landlord Luka Tavčar. The old po načrtih dunajskega arhitekta Karla Tieza pa je na Ajdovščini building was torn down. Two years later a new one was built upon the oziroma križišču takratne ceste Marije Terezije in Dunajske plans by Viennese architect Carl Tiez. It was located on the crossroads ceste začela nastajati palača Evropa, ki je bila zgrajena dve leti of at that time called Maria Theresia and Vienna roads and got the pozneje. Nekateri so jo poimenovali tudi Tavčarjeva palača. name Europe. It was also called simply Tavčar’s palace by some citizens. Ne le njena zunanjost, tudi notranjost je bila v dunajskem duhu, in sicer z bogato notranjo opremo ter dobro šolano postrežbo. Both its interior and exterior were built in Viennese style and had Tam se je pilo belo in črno kavo ter kapučino. V ponudbi so luxurious interior equipment and well-educated service staff. There imeli še vročo čokolado, čaj, likerje, kakav, punč, grog, angleški people were drinking dark black coffee, white coffee, and cappuccino. in dunajski zajtrk ter žemljice, hrenovke, pecivo in sladice, znani Also, in the offer, there were several beverages like hot chocolate, tea, pa so bili tudi po domačem sladoledu. V Evropo so zahajali liquors, cacao, punches, and grog. For food, you could order English or večinoma intelektualci, od gospodarstvenikov in trgovcev do Viennese breakfast and bread rolls, Frankfurter sausages, pastries, and umetnikov, profesorjev, študentov in politikov. V dopoldanskih sweets. They were also known for their famous ice cream. Café Europe urah so jo do prve svetovne vojne rade obiskovale tudi »fine« was frequently visited by intellectuals, businessmen, merchants, artists, dame, nič manj pa ni bila priljubljena med tujimi gosti. professors, students, and politicians. In the period before the First World War, it was frequently visited by "fine ladies". It was also popular with foreign visitors to Ljubljana. 62 Šempetrska cerkev / St. Peter's parish church 63 Ljubljana je imela v okviru organiziranosti rimokatoliške cerkve Inside the organisation of the Roman Catholic Church, Ljubljana had eno samo župnijo skoraj pol tisočletja. Ta je bila pri cerkvi sv. just a single parish for almost half of a century. It was located nearby Petra zunaj mestnega obzidja, geografsko pa je obsegala the church of St. Peter, outside the boundaries of the city walls. ogromen del dežele Kranjske in bila ustanovljena kot prafara na Geographically though it encompassed a huge area of the Carniola prehodu iz 9. v 10 stoletje. Tako je bilo vse do leta 1461, ko je bila region and was first established as an old parish in the turn from 9th pri cerkvi sv. Nikolaja ustanovljena ljubljanska škofija in mestna to 10th Century. It was like that till the year 1461, when the Church of župnija. Saint Nicholas, a Ljubljana diocese and city-parish was founded. Šempetrska cerkev je novo baročno podobo dobila leta 1731 po St. Peter's Church got its new baroque look in the year 1731 after the načrtih arhitektov Carla Martinuzzija in Giovannija Fusconija. plans of the architects from Trieste – Carlo Martinuzzi and Giovanni Imela je triladijsko zasnovo s prečno ladjo in kupolo. Prvič so jo Fusconi. It has a three-nave basis with the Transept and a Dome. It prezidali po potresu leta 1895, ko so po načrtih arhitekta was first reconstructed after an earthquake in 1895 by the plans of Raimunda Jeblingerja delno preuredili glavno fasado in zgradili architect Raimund Jeblinger. The main façade was partly renovated, a nov prezbiterij z dvema stranskima prostoroma, kamor so new Chancel was built with two side areas at which they added vzidali tudi nagrobnike z opuščenega bližnjega mestnega tombstones from the abandoned city’s cemetery, which was located pokopališča ob cerkvi, ki je tu stalo od 9. do 18. stoletja. Leta nearby the church from the 9th to 18th century. After 1938 architect 1938 je Ivan Vurnik preuredil glavno fasado z modernistično Ivan Vurnik renovated the façade once more with a modernist pravokotno ploskvijo. rectangular plot. 64