Agricultura 15: No 1-2:19-34(2018) https://doi.org/10.18690/agricultura.15.1-2.19-34.2018
Univerzitetna založba Univerze v Mariboru
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development: Case of
Slovenia and Hungary
Aleš GAČNIK1*, Mihaly Laszlo VOROS2
University of Primorska, Centre of Gastronomy and Wine Culture; Faculty of Tourism Studies Turistica, Department of Cultural Tourism, Obala 16a, 6320 Portorož, Slovenia 2Edutus University, Department of Economic Sciences, HELIA Research Group, HU-1114 Budapest, Villanyi ut. 11-13, Hungary
ABSTRACT
According to world tourism statistics more than third of tourist spending is devoted to food. Over and above the high quality local food &wine have been becoming a special driving force of tourism development. Tourists have growing interests to attend gastronomic food & wine events, festivals, fairs, farmers' markets and tasting quality food products. Gastronomy tourism is being developed as a new tourism product. Previous researches proved that a number of traditional food and wine products protected by EU or national designation have not been successfully promoted and obtained recognitions in the domestic or foreign markets. This paper aims to justify that the typical, traditional local food & wine products, as relevant gastronomy tourism attractions, need to be scientifically re-examined before promotion. It suggests new ways of gastronomy tourism promotion based on improved territorial marketing portfolio, which can create evident value added for small and medium enterprises in the sector providing an advance to move from quality to excellence.
Key words: gastronomy heritage, gastronomy tourism, protected agricultural products and foodstuff, gastronomy tourism attractions, cross-border development
INTRODUCTION
One of the most important principle and command of advanced gastronomy in any country of the world is the usage of authentic fresh, locally produced distinguished quality raw material from the source of local agriculture, horticulture, viniculture etc. "In gastronomia veritas" (Gacnik, 2012) Truth!? About what? About the civilization of Europe, about local, regional and national gastronomic identities, about our way of life and culture!
"Food is a microcosm of the macrocosm." If we are concerned about industrial farming, agri-business, food miles, soil erosion, cruelty to animals, fast food, fatty food, and nonfood then we have to look at our plate and what is on it. The
food in our pantry and in our kitchen is ultimately connected to climate change and global poverty, as well as to our health (Kumar, 2008).
Recent statistics on world tourism justifies that more than third of tourist spending is devoted to food. Over and above the high quality local food & wine have become a special driving force of tourism development due to the growing trends of a well-being lifestyle, authenticity and environmental protection. Gastronomy tourism has been an emerging phenomenon that is being developed as a new tourism product. Tourists have growing interests to attend gastronomic food and wine events and festivals, fairs, farmers' markets and tasting quality food products. This also emphasizes the sense of a territory (sense of place,
*Correspondence to: E-mail: ales.gacnik@fts.upr.si
Published in 2020
19
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
terroir), which assists the preservation of traditional forms of agriculture, cultural landscape and cultural heritage. Gastronomy, as a tourist resource, is appreciated not only for its own sake, but also for its ability to generate sustainable rural development.
Recent European Union (EU) agro-food policy definitely aids quality orientation, which essentially is based on three main pillars: protection of products with geographical indications (GI). There are two brands of GI: Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI) in the EU quality system and traditional - Traditional Specialities Guaranteed (TSG) and organic product (OP). This policy represents and protects the interest of wide range of stakeholders (local communities, producers, consumers, public administration etc.) preferring origin, traceability of farming and processing technology and different unique features of products with distinctive quality owing to traditions and knowledge accumulated in different regions. GIs are important tools adopted to underline qualities and characteristics of product strictly linked to its geographical origin and their legislation. GIs are defined by World Trade Organisation (WTO) in the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) Agreements: "indications which identify a good as originating in the territory of a Member, or a region or locality in that territory, where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin" (WTO, 1994). GIs are used in numerous countries all around the world, the large majority of them belonging to Europe.
Gastronomy heritage needs modernity as tourism needs stories for the promotion of tourism services offered to domestic and foreign guests. The strength of regional and national gastronomy in tourism will grow in correlation with its connection to experience, discovery and research of places, nature, people, culinary art and wine, relaxation and recreational activities (Gacnik, 2002).
Promoting tourism destination through the food and drinks, protected agricultural products and foodstuffs and through other gastronomic specialties, are becoming a trend, which can significantly effect on the future of Europe's agricultural policies. And wider! The intangible and tangible gastronomic heritage and culture of the world is being classified on the UNESCO's World Heritage List.
MATERIAL AND METHODS
This research is firstly based on review, re-thinking and joint summarizing relevant research findings and results published by the authors in the recent past in relation to the actual topic of this paper. Secondly, based on EU DOOR and national databases of protected food products, spirits and wines the research further demonstrates and analyses survey results. The specific quality characteristics and values of protected food products can be determined by diversified factors from three major dimensions: history (time), culture (traditions), and geography (place, location) (see in Fig.1).
The present paper determines the role of these quality factors through establishing and describing three products case studies (onion, pumpkin seed oil, Furmint / Sipon wine)
History
(Time)
Culture
(Tradition}
Geography
(Place, location)
Figure 1: Dimensions of specific quality characteristics and values of protected food products (Source: Kiserdi-Pallo, 2009)
for comparison. Revealing problems and to draw appropriate and realistic conclusions the paper also reviews and refers relevant literature results. To determine the role, scope and competence of gastronomy tourism it is necessary to make difference between food tourism and wine tourism. Various terms are being used, for example: food tourism, culinary tourism, gourmet tourism, gastronomy tourism, etc.
Food tourism is defined as visitation to primary and secondary food producers, food festivals, restaurants, and specific locations for which food tasting and/or experiencing the attributes of special food production regions are the primary motivating factors for travel (Hall and Sharples, 2008). Although there are conceptual differences between them, we decided to use the term gastronomy tourism, which includes both - food and drinks (wine, beer, sprits,etc.) culture & tourism.
Wine tourism is a subset of food tourism being defined as visitation to vineyards, wineries, wine festivals and wine shows for which grape wine tasting and / or experiencing the attributes of grape wine region are the prime motivating factors for visitors (Hall and Sharples, 2008). Gastronomy tourism refers to the intentional pursuit of appealing, authentic, memorable culinary experiences of all kinds, while travelling internationally, regionally or even locally. A gastro-experience is an authentic, memorable, food- or beverage-related activity that involves behind-the-scenes observations accompanied with cultural or regional illuminations, and often hands-on participation, that culminates in festive, casual, or formal partaking of food or drink (Williams et al., 2014).
The paper emphasizes that food and wine tourism can be considered special niche tourism products, which have growing importance in the development of tourism all over the world. The different types of food & gastronomy tourism can be categorized by the importance of the tourists' special interest in food as traveling motivation.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
In 1992, a uniform system of protection of food products with PDO, PGI and TSG brand has been adopted in EU designation schemes, which entered into force in Slovenia and Hungary too. Both countries have long traditions and
20
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
Figure 2: Wine and food tourism as a niche tourism product (Source: Hall and Mitchell, 2005)
diversity in food and wine culture, which is also shown by the wide variety of traditional and local foods, spirits and wines. Besides EU schemes national level quality systems have also been developed to support product differentiation by promoting their specific character and quality in the market and to aid consumers identifying quality products more easily as well as to protect against illegal usage of registered names.
Comparison of Slovenian and Hungarian foodstuffs, spirits and wines achieved EU quality designation and protection brand
Checking up the database of origin and registration (DOOR) and listing of registered and under-review product of Slovenia and Hungary the recent situation is the following. Slovenia has all together 24 food items registered with PDO, PGI or TSG brand (see Table 1) and 8 spirits (see Table 2) with PGI brand according to EU protection regime (Official Journal of the European Union, 2012).
PDO is the name of an area, a specific place used as a designation for an agricultural product or a foodstuff: which comes from such an area, place or country; whose quality or properties are significantly or exclusively determined by the geographical environment, including natural and human factors; whose production, processing and preparation takes place within the determined geographical area. In other words, to receive the PDO status, the entire product must be traditionally and entirely manufactured (prepared, processed and produced) within the specific region and thus acquire
unique properties.
PGI is the name of an area, a specific place used as a description of an agricultural product or a foodstuff: which comes from such an area, place or country; which has a specific quality, goodwill or other characteristic property, attributable to its geographical origin; whose production, processing or preparation takes place within the determined geographical area. In other words, to receive the PGI status, the entire product must be traditionally and at least partially manufactured (prepared, processed or produced) within the specific region and thus acquire unique properties.
TSG quality scheme aims to provide a protection regime for traditional food products of specific character. Differing from PDO and PGI, this quality scheme does not certify that the protected food product has a link to specific geographical area. To qualify for a TSG a food must be of "specific character" and either its raw materials, production method or processing must be "traditional".
In the last two years Slovenia could register two new products in the DOOR DataBase: Kraska panceta and Slovenska potica (see Table 1). One food item is still under review by EU authorities: Eggs under the Kamnik Mountains (PGI).
Wine production in Slovenia is divided into 3 winegrowing regions (Primorska, Posavska, Podravska) and 9 wine districts, where 52 vine varieties are grown (Wines of Slovenia, 2019). In the old city centre of Maribor is the oldest vine in world, which still grows. The confirmed age of „Zametovka" or „Modra Kavcina" vine is over than 400 years (Kerma and Gacnik, 2015). It is in the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest noble vine in the world still bearing grapes. About 85% of Slovenian wines are protected (regional wine, premium
21
Source: European Commission, 2017.
PDO - protected designation of origin, PGI - protected geographical indication, TSG - traditional specialities guaranteed.
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
Table 1: List of protected Slovenian food products by EU scheme (2019)
Product category	Type of designation	Year of registration
Nanos chees	PDO	2011
Tolminc cheese	PDO	2012
Bovec cheese	PDO	2012
Mohant cheese	PDO	2013
Extra virgin olive oil from Slovenian Istria	PDO	2007
Kočevje forest honey	PDO	2011
Karst honey	PDO	2013
Piran salt	PDO	2014
Styrian hops	PGI	2017
Karst prosciutto	PGI	2012
Karst pancetta	PGI	2012
Karst pork meat product made of neck	PGI	2012
Prleška tunka(pork meat product, conserved in minced lard)	PGI	2010
Styrian-Prekmurje pumpkin seed oil	PGI	2012
Kranjska sausage/Carniola sausage	PGI	2015
Ptuj onion / „Ptujski luk"	PGI	2011
Slovenian honey	PGI	2013
Istrian prosciutto	PGI	2015
Šabrejski stomach pork meat / „Šabreljski želodec"	PGI	2011
Zgornjesavinjski stomach pork meat / „Zgornjesavinski želodec"	PGI	2011
Kraška pancetta	PGI	2019
Slovenska potica	TSG	2018
Prekmurje cake / „Prekmurska gibanica"	TSG	2010
Idrija dumplings / „Idrijski žlikrofi"	TSG	2010
Bela Krajina cake / „Belokrajnska pogača"	TSG	2010
Table 2: List of EU protected spirits in Slovenia
Name of the spirit	Category of spirit	Type of EU brand
REGULATION (EC) No 110/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 15		
January 2008, Appendix III		
Brinjevec	Fruit spirit	PGI
Dolenjskisadjevec	Fruit spirit	PGI
Pelinkovec	Liqueur	PGI
Janeževec	Spirit with anise aroma	PGI
Pelinkovec	Liqueur	PGI
Domači rum	Other spirits	PGI
Orehovec	Liqueur	PGI
Slovenska travarica	Fruit spirit	PGI
Source: Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (MAFF), 2017. PGI - protected geographical indication.
wine), 17% of them are protected by the EU quality brands (PGI, PDO or TSG).
Slovenia introduced its trademark policy in wine production in 1968; the first idea design for wine protection has been created at 1956. The graphic basis for the trademark is Roman clay model - festive bread ("praznični kruhek")
which was found in the oldest Slovenian city of Ptuj. It represents god Bacchus - the Roman god of the grape harvest and winemaking. Among the vines he holds jug (thyros) in the hands and the panther lies in front of his legs. Wines were marked with a gold, silver and red sign. The newer collective brand of Slovenian wines (2007) was recognized under the
22
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
slogan "Slovenia - My Wine Land".
The main vine varieties in Slovenia are: Refosk (21%), Laski rizling (20%), Malvasia (13%), Merlot (13%), Rebula (10%), Zametovka (9%), Sauvignon (8%), Blue Franc (7%).There are some autochthonous and traditional or domesticated varieties of vines: Malocrn, Pinela, Ranfol, Radgonska ranina, Rebula, Refosk, Rumeni plavec, Sipon, Zelen, Zametovka (List of autochthonous and traditional varieties of agricultural plants, 2002) and Cipro, Klarnica, Kraljevina, Pergolin, Pikolit, Poljscica, Sentlovrenka, Vitovska grganja.
Wines can be labelled with the following names: (1) regional wine with PGI brand (2) quality wine with PDO brand and premium wine with PGI brand. In category of quality wines, we can also find wines with recognized traditional
denomination (TSG) wines among which are: Teran, Cviček, Bizeljčan, Metliška črnina, Belokranjec, and Ritoznojčan.
Comparing with Slovenia, until now Hungary has 16 food items registered with PDO, PGI or TSG brand by EU schemes (see Table 3). There is one product the Delicacy Chees (Csemege sajt) from Gyor-Moson-Sopron megye (county) which has published by EU before acceptance. The number of spirits with PGI brand is the same as in Slovenia (see Table 4). Four Palinka spirits (Pear palinka of Gocsej, Grape marc palinka of Pannonhalma, Plam palinka and Quince palinka of Nagykunsag) are under evaluation by the EU to award PGI brand for them. Until 15.12.2019 Hungary has applied with 12 new products: Tuzseri alma, Orsegi tokmagolaj, Kelemeri baranyhus, Jaszsagi nyari szarvasgomba, Szilvasvaradi
Table 3: List of protected Hungarian food products by EU scheme (2019)
Product category	Type of Designation	Year of registration
Szegedi' Winter Salami	PDO	2007
Makoi' Onion	PDO	2009
Makoi' Parsley	PGI	2017
'Hajdusagi' Horseradish	PDO	2009
'Szegedi' ground paprika	PDO	2010
'Kalocsai' ground paprika	PDO	2011
Alfoldi' camomile flower	PDO	2012
'Budapesti' Winter Salami	PGI	2007
'Csabai' Sausage	PGI	2010
'Gyulai' Sausage	PGI	2010
'Gonci' Apricot	PGI	2011
Hungarian Grey Cattle Meat	PGI	2011
'Szoregi' Foot of Rose-tree	PGI	2012
'Szentesi' Paprika	PGI	2014
Crackling Patty	TSG	2013
Bumpy cottage cheese	TSG	2019
Name of the spirit	Category of spirit	Type of EU brand
REGULATION (EC) No 110/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 15 January 2008, Appendix III		
Palinka	Fruit spirit	PGI
Torkolypalinka (Grape marc palinka)	Grape marc spirit	PGI
Bekesi Szilvapalinka (plum palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Gonci Barackpalinka (apricot palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Kecskemeti Barackpalinka (apricot palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Szabolcsi Almapalinka (apple palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Szatmari Szilvapalinka (plum palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Ujfehertoi meggypalinka (sour cherry palinka)	Fruit spirit	PGI
Source: Hungarian Ministry of Agriculture Deputy State Secretary for Protection of Product Origin, 2017. PGI - protected geographical indication.
Source: European Commission, 2019.
PDO - protected designation of origin, PGI - protected geographical indication, TSG - traditional specialities guaranteed.
Table 4: List of EU protected spirits in Hungary
23
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
pisztrang, Balatoni hal, Nagykorui ropogos cseresznye, Nagykuni rizs, Budaorsi oszibarack, Akasztoi szikiponty, Ujfehertoi meggy, Szomolyai rovidszaru fekete cseresznye, in order to achieve EU protection brand.
Hungary is close to the northern border of viticulture. Although the whole country is suitable for wine production, the vineyards are mostly associated with the hilly and low mountainous areas. From the middle of 18th century until 1960 Hungary's wine growing area comprised about 200250 thousands of hectares, but during the past 50 years winegrowing area has decreased by about 60 %. Concerning EU protected quality wines in Hungary there are 31 wine regions registered as PDO brand (e.g. Badacsony/Badacsonyi, Debroi Harslevelu, Eger / Egri, Hajos-Baja, Nagy-Somlo / Nagy-Somloi, Somlo / Somloi, Sopron / Soproni, Szekszard / Szekszardi, Tokaj / Tokaji, Villany / Villanyi etc.). Wines from the following six regions (1) Zemplen / Zempleni, (2) Balaton / Balatoni (this name is still under acceptance by EU for granting the PGI brand protection), (3) Balatonmelleki, (4) Duna-Tisza kozi (5) Dunantul / Dunantuli, (6) Felso-Magyarorszag / Felso Magyarorszagi are able to designate and protect their products by PGI brand, which make possible for wineries located in these regions to utilize product differentiation in the market. National level quality systems are playing significant role in preparing producers application to achieve EU registered protected brand in Slovenia and Hungary as well without chemicals, genetically modified organisms and radiation.
Comparison of national food & wine protection systems and gastronomy tourism promotion tools between Slovenia and Hungary
Slovenia is located in the cultural, geographical and economical meeting point of the Alps, the Mediterranean and the Pannonia Plain. This is clearly mirrored in the identity of country's gastronomy. In 2006, Slovenian Tourism Board (STO) published the Gastronomic strategy of Slovenia (Lebe et al., 2006) to promote the development and marketing of Slovenia's gastronomy. It lists 24 gastronomy regions in Slovenia and 170 representative dishes, recognised for their consistent, uniqueness and recognisable offer (nowadays the list has been extended over 300 dishes). This gastronomic platform enriches the contents of food & wine events, festivals and contributes to the visibility of the country for international gastronomy tourism audience.
The top of the gastronomic pyramid are dishes, which represent the gastronomy of Slovenia: (1) Mediterranean region of Slovenia: baked sardines and stuffed calamari's; wines: Teran, Refošk, Rebula, Zelen, Vitovska grganja, Klarnica, (2) Central Slovenia region: "Potica" (especially made with peanuts, honey, cracknels, and only partially walnut), cheese, "Štruklji" (rolled dumplings), Cviček, Metliška črnina wines, (3) Alpine region of Slovenia: Carniolan sausages - Beverage, Kranjska medica, Carniola honey-wine, (4) Pannonian part of Slovenia: Prekmurska cake / "Prekmurska gibanica" (layered pastry with poppy
seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins, and cottage cheese filling), knitted bread (braided or "bosman"); wines: Sipon, Ranina. Some of the most representative Slovenian dishes and wines are included in EU and national quality schemes (e.g. Carniolan sausages, Prekmurje cake / "Prekmurska gibanica", wines Teran, Zelen) and the dishes, which are representing the regional gastronomic identity of Slovenia.
Besides EU schemes national quality schemes were set up (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food. Sheme kakovosti, 2017) and prescribed by the Agriculture Act in Slovenia. The principles of producing a certain quality scheme product with a specific character are determined as follows: (A) strict rules on the way of production, (B) the impact of geographical area, where the product is being produced or processed, (C) traditional production methods. The system makes difference between "higher" and "selected" quality.
Higher quality: the agricultural product or foodstuff in its characteristic properties positively deviates from other similar agricultural products and foodstuffs. Agricultural products and foodstuffs with a higher quality label are better than the same agricultural products or foodstuffs by their specific characteristics. They also differ positively from the minimum quality, if it's prescribed. The specific properties of the product, which are defined with higher quality, are determined by composition, sensory properties, and physico-chemical properties and by the way of production. The following agricultural products and foodstuffs are included in the higher quality scheme: Honey with moisture content of up to 18% and a maximum of 15 mg of HMF (hidrixi-metil-furfurol) per kilo - Golden Hive Honey ("Zlati panj"), Home Bred Goricko Chicken, Chicken eggs Omega plus, Pivka chicken and products with Omega-3.
The selected quality: an agricultural product or foodstuff produced by environmentally friendly technology, the composition of quality ingredients, the welfare of the animals, the special animal health, the way of feeding, the length of transport routes, the way or speed of processing the ingredients or less later possible processing at storage and transport (the scheme is not yet implemented). Two trademarks labels can be used to designate products as "selected quality": (1) the ones intended for all the products, regardless of the origin of raw material, (2) the ones with an indication of the country, e.g. "Selected quality of Slovenia", which can be used exclusively on products that have been produced and processed in Slovenia. Among other national quality labels, the following designations are also used in Slovenia:
Organic production - agricultural product or foodstuff is produced and processed by natural methods and procedures. Integrated production - agricultural product is produced according to methods, where the authorized agro-technical measures are regulated. Delights from our farms (this scheme is not implemented yet) - the agricultural product or foodstuff is produced or processed on the farm, according to the typical recipes of farm products, and with using the bulk of its own ingredients or ingredients from the local environment.
The gastronomic identity of the country is also rounded by the protected spirits, natural mineral waters, autochthonous
24
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
and domesticated traditional animals, events and festivals, as well as the offer of Slovenian restaurants and agro-tourism farms.
There are several Slovenian spirits protected by National Spirits Regulations and other special regulations (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food, 2017). Brinjevec (similar to Gin), Slovenska travarica (Slovenian herbalist), Pelinkovec (bitter liqueur based on wormwood), Domači rum (Homemade rum), Viljamovka (Pear "viljamovka" brandy), Janževec (similar to Mastika, Ouzo), Orehovec (Walnut liquere), Borovničevec (Blueberry liquere), Kostelska rakija (Plum brandy), Brkinski slivovec (Plum brandy), Kraški brinjevec (similar to Gin), Gorenjski tepkovec (Pear "tepka" brandy) and Dolenjski sadjevec (fruit brandy).
The list of natural mineral waters with domestic brands as follows (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food. Natural mineral, springwater and table water 2017) Kaplja, Natural Donat Mg, Radenska classic - Petanjski vrelec, Radenska - Kraljevi vrelec, Radenska Naturelle, Tiha, Dana, Primaqua, Costella, Vrnjci, Vrnjci Classic and Element. In a ministry document published earlier (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food 2006), there are some more natural mineral water listed with national brand of Slovenia: Julijana, Edina, Tempel, Radenska Light, Radenska Radin, Jamnica.
There are 11 relevant indigenous and 14 traditional breeds in Slovenia (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food, Description of indigenous and traditional breeds of animals, 2017). The indigenous animal species: 1 cattle (Cikasto govedo), 3 horses (Lipicanski konj, Posavski konj, Slovenski hladnokrvni konj), 1 pig (Krškopoljski prašič), 4 sheeps (Jezersko-solčavska, Bovška, Istrska pramenka, Belokranjska pramenka), 1 goat (Drežniška goat), 1 chicken (Štajerska kokoš - Styria). The traditional animal species: 2 horses (Ljutomerski kasač, Haflinski konj), 3 pigs (Slovenian landrace - line 11, Slovenian landrace - line 55, Large white - line 22), 1 sheep (Enchanted lake-Solčava sheep), 2 goats (Slovenian Sanaan Breed, Slovenian Cattle Breed) and 6 chickens (Slovene beef hen, Slovenian silver hen, Slovenian brown hen, Slovene upper hen, Slovene late hen, Slovenian hen).
There are various promotion systems and tools for popularizing protected agricultural products and foodstuffs, healthy lifestyles and gastronomic specialties in Slovenia (Action plan for the development and marketing of gastronomy of Slovenia 2019 - 2023, 2019; Strategic plan for the promotion of agricultural and food products 2019-2025, 2018; Taste Slovenia, 2018; Strategy for sustainable growth of Slovenian tourism 2017-2021, 2017). Here are some examples from the most relevant ones: School Fruit Scheme and School Milk Scheme operating in EU level; Honey Breakfast (2008), Traditional Slovenian breakfast (2011), Slovenian food day (2012), The Taste of Slovenia are operating at national level; The smell of Prekmurje »Diši po Prekmurju« (2007), Flavours of Gorenjska region (2015), Taste the delicacies of Dolenjska region are operating at regional level; Taste Radol'ca (2013), Taste Ljubljana (2014), Taste Maribor (2015) are operating at local, city level.
Given the importance of bees and bee keeping Slovenia is putting great efforts into preserving and protecting bees not
only in its territory but also throughout the European Union. On the basis of good practice Slovenia launched an initiative to the Agriculture and Fisheries Council in March 2014 to introduce the European Honey Breakfast that was warmly welcomed by several Member States (Blatnik and Bojnec, 2015). Recently, two types of quality honey are on the list of EU protected foodstuff and there are some more brands protected in national level.
National promotional projects have been implemented in Slovenia by concerning authority for popularizing local (involving protected) food & drink products cooperating with the media (Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Fishery, Forestry and Food. Promotion of local food, 2017). Connections to delicacies from our countryside »Povezani smo z dobrotami naše dežele« (2014), Fresh food from your vicinity »Sveža hrana iz vaše bližine« (2012), Be aware of local origin »Bodite pozorni na lokalno poreklo« (2014). Only the most important events to promote and popularize local (involving protected) food & drinks can be listed here: National exhibition and competition; Delight to Slovenian farms «Dobrote slovenskih kmetij« (since 1990); The Countryside in the City event »Podeželje v mestu« (since 2005); Buy Slovenian »Kupujem Slovensko «campaign (since 2008); Buy Local »Kupujmo domače« a webpage platform (since 2011). The strategic medium for the promotion of Slovenian gastronomic identity represents also food and wine events and festivals (more than 500). The great importance of cross-sectoral integration of stakeholders in the fields of agriculture, tourism, culture, science, etc. has the title of Slovenia - the European region of gastronomy 2021. Also, the Slovenian Tourist Board has declared the years 2020 and 2021 for years of gastronomy in Slovenian tourism.
Comparing with Slovenia Hungary joined to the Euroterroirs program in 1998 initiated by France in order to promote traditional and local food products. Than HIR (in Hungarian language the meaning of the word „hir" is new ; Hagyomanyok = Traditions, Izek = Flavours, Regiok = Regions; its English abbreviation is TFR) program was launched based on lessons learned on best practices of EU's Euroterroirs program. The main objective of TFR program was to create a database of traditional Hungarian agricultural and food products, landraces and indigenous animal species for promotion to improve their domestic and international reputation. As a result the professional and historical description of 300 products has been completed and placed in the TFR computerized database, which can be considered as a treasury of Hungarian cultural heritage. In 2002, "HIR" / TFR brand was approved as a national brand and introduced to the national quality system for recognition of local food, wine, gastronomic small and medium enterprises (SMEs) selected by an evaluation procedure. Awarding TFR brand to producers has started only in 2010. The basic requirements to apply for the TFR brand and to attend in the evaluation procedure are the following: (1) documented history of at least two generations (50 years old), (2) traditional production method, (3) to be linked to a given region, (4) at least one element of the production should be based on special local know-how, (5) generally known at least in the production region, and (6) existing production and market for sale. Since 2010 an announcement for competition has been
25
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
issued every year among producers to submit tenders with detailed specifications certifying that their products satisfy requirements of "HIR brand". In the starting year (2010) the number of products awarded by TFR trademark was 50 from 18 producers while in 2016 the awarded products increased up to 130 and the number of producers to 60. Among these TFR products there are 9 of them, which belong to premium category: Pumpkin seed oil of Orseg, Fat Semi-soft Gout Cheese of Barathegy, Elder Flower Syrup, Special Pig Harslet Sausage 'Ciganka', Parsley Root of Hegyko, Mutton stew of Karcag, Tokaji Furmint based Vinegar, Carrot of Fertod region, and Black cherry with short stalk of Szomolya. The producers of them has been applied or are planning to apply for achieving EU PGI or PGI brand.
In 2012, the Hungarian Parliament adopted the Act XXX on Hungarian national values and Hungarikums with the aim of establishing appropriate legal framework for the identification, collection and documentation of national heritage values for their protection and making them available for the widest possible audience. According to the legal definition, Hungarikum refers to a collective term denoting a value worthy of emphasis that represents the highest quality of Hungarian product with its characteristically Hungarian attributes, uniqueness, special nature and quality (Hungarikum Committee established by the Ministry of Rural Development MARD in 2012).
There are eight categories of Hungarikum (Ministry of Agriculture, Hungarikum Collections and Committee, 2018): Agriculture and Food Industry, Health and Lifestyle, Industrial and technological solutions, Cultural Heritage, Sport, Natural environment, Tourism and catering and Built Environment. Recently, there are all together 67 items in the Hungarikum collection, 28 Hungarikum items belong to agricultural & food and tourism & catering category, which can be considered as a base of gastronomy tourism.
In 2010, National Park Product brand was also introduced in Hungary in order to promote special assortment of food produced in natural parks or natural protection areas by utilizing authentic naturally sourced clean raw material. Besides HIR / TFR, Hungarikum and National Park Product brand there are other Hungarian acknowledged quality systems e.g. Quality Food from Hungary brand, Excellent Quality Pork brand. Considering wine and spirits Hungary launched the National Wine Excellence Programme, and National Palinka Excellence Programme.
Hungary has a number of crop genetic resources, many of which have originated from the ancient times of Bronze age and Roman era, and indigenous animal genetic resources of domesticated animals: Hungarian Grey Cattle Hungarian Simmental Cattle, Carpathian Brown Cattle, Mangalica pig, Transylvanian Naked Neck Chicken Breeds, Hungarian Water Buffalo, Hungarian Racka Sheep, Hungarian Cigaja Sheep, Hucul Horse, Hungarian Giant Rabbit etc.
The Hungarian gastronomy has long traditions. In spite of the fact that gastronomy and gastronomy tourism has great potential, Hungary, compared to Slovenia, does not have yet a well-established concept and strategy, which could be utilized by the relevant market players, tourism SMEs as a guideline to set up objectives and elaborating short term and long term plans to develop and utilize the broad
selection of quality food and wine products. A prestigious international culinary competition the Bocuse d'Or was held in the French city of Lyon on January 24-25 2017 and the Hungarian squad of chefs finished in the 4th place from the 24 participating countries. Recently there are four Michelin-starred restaurants in Budapest (Borkonyha, Costes, Costes Downtown and Onix) opened in the last five years (Gaul &Millou, 2017).
Gastronomy related intangible and tangible cultural heritages registered by UNESCO and the efforts of Slovenia and Hungary to develop national heritage catalogue of food &drinks
On the global UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage (passed by the UNESCO General Conference held in 2003) there are 429 elements (Lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage and the Register of Good Safeguarding Practises, 2017) and some of them are related to the gastronomic heritage and culture of the world. The main food and drink traditions registered in the UNESCO's world heritage list of Intangible Cultural Heritage are as follows: Beer culture in Belgium
(2016),	Winegrowers' Festival in Vevey, Switzerland (2016), OshiPalav - a traditional meal and its social and cultural context in Tajikistan (2016), Lavash - the traditional meaning and appearance of traditional bread as an expression of culture in Armenia (2014), Traditional agricultural practice of cultivating the "vite ad albarello", head-trained bush vines of community of Pantelleria, Sicily (2014), Ancient Georgian traditional Qvevri wine-making method (2013), Mediterranean diet (2013), Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year (2013), Shrimp fishing on horseback in Oostduinkerke, Belgium (2013), Turkish coffee culture and tradition (2013), Cheery festival in Sefrou, Morocco(2012), French cuisine (2010), Gingerbread craft from Northern Croatia (2010), Traditional Mexican cuisine - ancestral, ongoing community culture, the Michoacan paradigm (2010), Sanke mon -collective fishing rite of the Sanke, Mali (2009).
Some wine regions and wine culture belonging to the list of cultural heritage of UNESCO should also be highlighted as relevant gastronomy tourism attractions: Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars (France), Tokaj historical winegrowing region (Hungary), Loire Valley (France), Douro Valley (Portugal), Piedmont (Italy), Middle Rhine (Germany), Bordeaux (France), Pantelleria (Italy).
Slovenia does not have yet an item in the World Heritage List of UNESCO for intangible cultural heritages but the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage has been created which contains (6.6.2017) 58 units and 163 holders of intangible cultural heritage, 9 of them are belonging to culinary heritage (The Register of the Intangible Cultural Heritage on Ministry of Culture, 2017): Baking Easter breads
(2017)	Traditional production of the sea salt (2015), Making Bovec "krafi" - a kind of ravioli filled with dried pears (2014), Baking festive pastry "Prleska gibanica" (2013), Making Bohinj "mohant" cheese (2013), Baking "Prosta povitica" and
26
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
"Bela Krajina povitica" - pastry with different fillings (2013), Baking Bela Krajina "pogača" - a kind of flat loaf (2013), Baking "Poprtnik" - ritual bread which should stay on the table from Christmas to Three Kings (2013) and traditional production of the Carniolan sausages (2012). Four items in the national intangible cultural heritage list are designated with EU protection brand: Mohant cheese (PDO), Piran salt (PDO), Kranjska sausage (PGI) and Bela Krajina Cake (TSG). The conceptual differences between UNESCO register of intangible cultural heritage and the EU quality schemes (PDO, PGI, TSG) is that UNESCO protects knowledge and people while EU quality schemes protects products as well as the interest of producers and consumers.
EU certification is incompatible (Food in the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Slovenia and its certification, 2017) with the UNESCO convention because of several reasons. Local communities have key role in assuring to provide fair, real, unbiased information for authorities into evaluation and certification procedures in order to preserve the intangible cultural heritage, transmitted from generation to generation as well as to protect from "outside" influence. Because certificates are payable, they are not accessible to all members of local community. It means an alienation of local knowledge and exploitation of it latter in favour of those who have money and see the possibility of earning the money by certified products, which is opposite to the objectives of UNESCO Convention (Židov, 2017). All the differences between UNESCO and EU certification of gastronomy products were also reflected in the comments of UNESCO Assessment body concerning the nomination of Traditional production of Carniolan sausage.
Istria Region in Slovenia is equipped with particular diversified gastronomy tourism values and heritages. There are particular geographic locations along the coastal area, which provides special climatic conditions for not only fish culture but for Mediterranean agriculture and viniculture as well. A number of unique specific natural "gifts" are utilized as basic raw materials for the high level local cuisine, e.g. salt (Piran Salt has PDO brand: (see Table 1), extra virgin olive oil (Slovenia Istria olive has also PDO brand: see table 1), wine ('Refosco' is a dark red wine, a leading local variety, 'Malvasia' is the best white wine of the region), sea fish and Mediterranean fruits & vegetables (persimmon or kaki fruit, asparagus, artichoke, truffles etc.) which also belong to the authentic local tourist attractions and events. Each November in the harvesting season of persimmon there is a Kaki Festival in village Strunjan.
Hungary has also elaborated specifications and catalogue of the relevant intangible cultural heritages (Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hungary, 2019). Recently, there are 22 group of elements in the catalogue, six of them can be considered as culinary heritage, which might be important in the potential development and promotion of gastronomy tourism in Hungary: local tradition of cooking Mutton stew in Kiskunsag, Karcag (2009), 'Emmaus' Feast, a local traditional event held in Easter Monday involves special folkloric food & wine, special gastronomic customs in Boly, Baranya County, in South-Hungary (2011), local tradition of making Miller's Scone / Wafer in Borsod-nadasd, in North-Hungary (2012), local tradition to celebrate 'Coming Sprouts
of Grape', a local feast in Kôszeg, city in West-Hungary (2013), local tradition of making the authentic natural Plum Jam in Szatmar-Bereg County, North-East of Hungary (2013), and traditional fishing in South-Danube (2013).
Recent studies in international literature (Kempiak et al., 2016)highlightedtheimportanceofdigitalandweb-marketing, social media and blogs in tourism related information search, trip planning, networking and destination branding. Digital marketing communications creates a significant component of the tourists' decision-making process and enables tourists to participate in the co-creation of the experience. However, according to some recent surveys only relatively small number of the food and gastronomy tourism organisations engaged with digital communications such as blogs or social networks. Consequently, the improvement of these new areas of marketing communication will have utmost importance in the future.
The better we get to know the heritage and contemporary creativity in Europe's gastronomy, the easier it is to understand and evaluate specialities of local gastronomy, and the more efficient is the international promotion and marketing of the region's gastronomy in the context of culture and economy (Gacnik, 2012; Kerma and Gacnik, 2015). The challenge of development of gastronomy tourism in Slovenia and Hungary is to nominate their selected regions to compete for the title the European Region of Gastronomy (ERG), which might open a new paradigm of regional development in Europe. The ERG platform was initiated in 2013 (the project was developed by Diane Dodd, Robert Palmer and Greg Richards, who are also the main activists of the European Capital of Culture project). under the auspices of the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Art and Tourism (IGCAT). The ERG platform is open to regions, which can declare a moral obligation to ensure improved food quality and support for local cultures, traditions and are ready to capitalise on the growing convergence of food, culture, and tourism sectors. Besides they are exciting transformations happening at a local level that could support regional development. This platform is an initiative to nurture transfer of knowledge as well as to support collaborations that give wider visibility to efforts in member regions. The ERG platform provides also cross-marketing opportunities and longer-term benefits. The main focus areas are as follows: feeding the planet, sustainability, education, innovation, globalization, digital agenda, linking urban and rural, global competitiveness, health, diversity, supporting SMEs. SMEs are the backbone of regional food production and the mainstay of gastronomic experiences. ERG is designed to promote the work of SMEs and to help them achieve greater environmental, economic and cultural sustainability.
Product case studies of Slovenia and Hungary
This research is based on making comparative analyses of case studies of selected typical national food, wine or gastronomic product/dishes originating from rural regions in Slovenia and Hungary as well as gastro-tourism events, festivals etc. joined with them. In Slovenia and Hungary
27
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
there are some regions that possesses special gastronomic, cuisine character, which can be attributed to the very specific local endowments, traditional landraces and indigenous animal species. It would be important to compare the stories about the Hungarian Gray Cattle Meat sausages (the meat is registered as PGI protected product in EU) with Carniola sausage / Kranjska klobasa (registered as PGI protected product in EU). Similar characteristics can be found between the history, origin and traditions of the following three different protected agricultural products and foodstuffs existing in Slovenia and Hungary: the onion, the pumpkin seed oil and the Furmint / Sipon wine.
Case of Onion
In Slovenia, Ptuj onion "Ptujski luk" is a red onion produced in Ptuj surroundings. It is registered as PGI EU scheme (2011). In fact, it should have been registered as PDO. It has been produced for more than 200 (www.ptujski-luk.si) or 300 (Bartolj, 2016) years. It has its own website. According to the local legend, onion was brought to the Slovenian lands by the belonging Turks (www.ptujski-luk.si). Onion growers are linked to the Slovenian Association for Integrated Vegetable Production. The purpose of the association is to connect higher-quality vegetable growers, educate members, spread and promote the development of higher quality vegetables and inform the target public about the importance of quality schemes and a healthier way of life. Most of these studies on "Ptuj red onion" are related to agriculture and healing effects. It is rare that researches focusing on the heritage, the way of life and the culture of people from the "onion region". According to the local designation of the onion ("luk"), there is also a literary designation of the area as "Lukarija" ("Onion region"). This was influenced by the book (novel) Lukarji (People from Lukarija) (1936) of the Slovene writer Anton Ingolic (1907-1992). Ptuj red onion is the most important identification symbol of the "literary" region "Lukarija". During the history onion was the main source of income for many farmers. It was an extremely valuable agricultural product that people bought it pieces by pieces. One could buy two bulls for a farm trailer of onions (after the Second World War). Onion sellers were known as "lukarji" and travelled through large parts of Central Europe. They also sold the onion at the royal court in Vienna.
Sensory characteristics: moderately sharp taste, it must not be sweet, the strong smell of onions. Specialty: knitted onions, which are also used for promotional and protocol purposes.
Gastronomy / heritage tourism attraction: in the year 2017 the 24th local Onion feast ("Lukarski praznik") was organized in the village of Dornava near city Ptuj. There are many traditional dishes with onion. The most popular combination is a salad: onion with pumpkin oil ("oljof luk"). The potential of the Ptuj onion does not have yet a suitable place in the advanced Slovenian gastronomy.
In Hungary, the Mako onion (HIR / TFR database) is an extremely versatile vegetable, became a typical and traditional Hungarian vegetable product. The ripe Mako Onion is almost perfectly round and measure between 5-7
centimetres in diameter on the average. The bulb is decidedly hard and compact and is covered with many layered skin which adheres tightly to the bulb. The skin is dark red when the onion is ripe. The onion itself is ivory in colour and has an outstandingly high dry material of more than 16 %. It is probably that onion was brought to Mako from Central Asia and its growing achieved great popularity in Hungary during the time when Turks occupied the country for 300 years. At the end of 18th century the onion surplus was transported to the South-Southeast, to Transylvania by so called "Tergovatz" traders. This characteristic ensures its long shelf-life, which means that it can be stored throughout the winter without losing its nutritional value. It also tends to sprout very late in the season.
The onion contains a particularly high amount of ally sulphide, vitamin C, and vitamin B1-3, B6, B9, E and K. According to long time experiences of folk medicine it was justified that Mako onion have preventative and healing properties and have been employed for centuries for cure eye illnesses, sore throat, and against inflammation, which can be thanked for diverse sulphides and trace elements found in it. The Mako onion in Hungary is a key ingredient in almost every traditional and typical dish (e.g. Goulash Soup of Gray Cattle, South-Danube Fish Soup etc.), and, as case studies reveals, many consumers distinguish between varieties of onions based on their different sensory and culinary properties. There is an Onion Festival in Mako every year in September.
Mako Onion registered as a PDO protection brand in EU in 2009 and achieved also TFR national brand as well as Hungarikum brand in Hungary. An international team of researchers (Tregear, 2016) elaborated a case study on Mako Onion in order to analyse the degree to which geographical indications (GIs) may improve upgrading for small-scale agricultural producers. The authors were trying to find out how and what extent GI has been impact on the competitiveness of product in value chain. This study made distinction between „established" and „nascent" geographical indication systems and determined three main means by which geographical indications (GIs) can facilitate upgrading (1) capturing higher margins, (2) stimulating collective action, and (3) enabling diversification. The research has been finished with a surprising conclusion: none have been delivered yet via the Mako Onion PDO
Join opportunity for Slovenia and Hungarian: to organize cross-border onion gastronomy tourism festivals finding new innovative ways of information dissemination and improving food and gastronomy product promotion.
Case of Pumpkin Seed Oil
In Slovenia Styrian-Prekmurje pumpkin seed oil "Štajersko-prekmursko bučno olje" registered as PGI EU scheme (since 2012). In Slovenian part of Styria and Prekmurje regions there is the long-term heritage of oil seed pumpkin growing and pumpkin seed processing into pumpkin seed oil, which dates back to the 18th century. The first press was founded in 1750 in village Fram, near to the Maribor city (founder: Thomas Krainz). In the 19th century the production of pumpkin oil
28
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
is extensively spread throughout the entire region of Styria. Pumpkins have always been appreciated and used for human and animal consumption. It is of high-quality edible and unrefined vegetable oil processed according to the traditional procedure by pressing the best quality roasted pumpkin seeds, using heat and without additives (Slovenian protected agricultural products and foodstuffs, 2010). In comparison with other vegetable oils, the production of the Stajersko-prekmursko pumpkin seed oil in Slovenia is more specific and diverse. Oil itself undergoes a mechanical process, where heat is used. We do not use and add any supplements and all this results in high-quality pumpkin seed oil. It is also known for its pleasing fatty acid structure, it namely contains around 20% of saturated fatty acids, around 30% of mono-unsaturated fatty acids and around 50% of polyunsaturated fatty acids. The Stajersko-prekmursko pumpkin seed oil Slovenia is high in tocopherol as it contains around 40 mg of vitamin E in 100 g of oil (Stajersko-prekmursko Pumpkin Seed Oil of Slovenia, 2017).
In the region there are some smaller local tourist events that celebrate pumpkins and pumpkin oil. Pumpkin oil is one of the most important identification symbols of the region. Weak and ineffective connection between providers consequently cause a problem of lower visibility on the market. In traditional cuisine, pumpkin oil is mainly used for salads. It is more and more popular as a special delicacy in high gastronomy. Gastronomic specialities: Handmade chocolate (slightly salty, hand-selected and roasted pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil are added). An exclusive set of five pumpkin chocolates "Passion" contains: White chocolate with pumpkin seeds and pumpkin oil, dark chocolate with plums and plum brandy, dark chocolate with fried onions and pumpkin oil, dark chocolate with apples and cinnamon, dark chocolate with rosemary (Kocbek since 1929, 2017). Numerous scientific findings - traditional (Murkovic et al., 1996) and alternative medicine (Shaban, 2017) - confirmed the healing of pumpkin seeds and pumpkin oil. More and more experts are reporting on the beneficial effects of pumpkin oil on health (prostate, cholesterol metabolism, water withdrawal, muscle strength, angina pectoris and cancer) (Pumpkin seed oil: 12 beneficiary effects on health). It should not lag behind extra virgin olive oils, which are promoted much better in Slovenia and abroad. Katja Kovic's did master's thesis on the tourist potential of pumpkin and pumpkin seed oil under mentoring of Ales Gacnik (Faculty of tourism studies, University of Primorska, 2018).
In Hungary back to the history pumpkin seed vegetable oil has been produced from the 14th century (HIR / TFR database). The seed of so called New World Pumpkin (Cucurbit genus) provided the basic raw material for oil production, which was suitable for human consumption and feeding animal as well. According to contemporary records several varieties of this pumpkin had been cultivated and sold on the market. Recently the main geographical location of Hungary for growing pumpkin is Orseg region in Western Transdanubia, near to the Slovenian border. Pumpkin seed oil is a part of everyday life in Orseg region, which could preserve the area's reach growing and production traditions. Pumpkin seed oil of Orseg is a viscous, dense, very dark green in colour, exempt from extraneous scent and tastes. It
is reach in poli-unsaturated essential fatty acids and contains many other biologically valuable substances as well as trace elements. It is used for flavouring to most diverse kind of soup, salads made with cooked potatoes, green beans white beans, leaf lettuce or cucumber. It is also used for making bread, apple fritters, and cornmeal's scones or in making mashed potatoes.
Instead of using hog fat pumpkin seed oil is a proper basic material for preparing and cooking meals for eating in Lenten days (e.g. Ester Feast). The Pumpkin seed oil of Orseg has recently been protected by a TFR national brand and there is a plan to apply for receiving a PGI brand in EU scheme. There is an international gastronomy tourism festival for promoting pumpkin products in Szalafo, Orseg region of Hungary in every year.
Join opportunity: creating thematic cross-border pumpkin and pumpkin oil pathways and organizing a joint cross-border festival, in conjunction with top chefs from both countries and Europe.
Case of wine Furmint / Šipon
In Slovenia, the name of 'Furmint' is Šipon. It is a white vine and wine variety, as a varietal wine and for cuvee wines. It has various qualities from table wine to premium wine, from dry to ice wine, sparkling wine etc. In Slovenia the best Šipon is grown in Ljutomer - Ormož wine district in the wine growing region of Podravje. The origin of vine is unknown but according to certain assumptions its homeland might be Southern Italy, others says that it is from the surrounding area of Srem (Serbia), Slovakia, Hungary or the Black Sea region. Šipon should be one of the oldest vines in Slovenia, over 1000 years old (Sommelier Society of Slovenia, 2017). Wine grows in Hungary, Austria, Croatia, Slovakia, and Romania and in some of former republics of the Soviet Union too. According to folk tradition the name "Nippon" is supposed to originate from the Napoleon times, when the military officers praised the wine with the word "Sibon", what people should understand as Šipon. It cannot be considered as most popular and well-known wine among Slovenians, but it has been obtained exceptional awards in many prestigious international competitions of the world. According to the qualification of a number of international wine experts and masters of wine (MW) Šipon is the best Slovenian wine. Despite numerous thematic wine festivals in Slovenia, we do not have yet a specialized festival to celebrate and promote Šipon wine. This would undoubtedly create even greater interest on the wine market and consequently, higher prices.
Furmint vine has been growing in the Tokaj-Tokaji historical wine region of North-Eastern part of Hungary since at least the late 16th century (we can refer a document dated May 15, 1571). It is possible that the grape was brought to Hungary in the 13 th century during the reign of King Bela IV (1206-1270). According to Hungarian story-tellers the name „Furmint" was taken from the word "froment" (the French word means "ear of wheat") for the wheat-gold colour of the wine. It is interesting to study the diversified name varieties: in Austria known as Mosler, in Slovenia known as Šipon, in Croatia known as Moslavac.
29
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
Furmint is a white wine grape that is mostly grown in Tokaj-Tokaji wine region branded with PDO. It is used to produce single-varietal dry wines as well as being the principal grape in the better known Tokaji dessert wines. Smaller amount is also grown in Somlo-Somloi, a tiny wine region of the country which also owns PDO brand.
The Furmint vine has a high tolerance for drought condition, which can allow the grape to be planted in regions with limited irrigation sources. The grape can be susceptible to the viticulture hazard of powdery mildew. It is a late ripening variety grape. For dry wines the harvest starts usually in September, however sweet wine specific harvest can start in the second half of October or even later, and is often inflicted with Botrytis. Furmint has shown a high degree of genetic diversity with several clones (in Hungarian „Feher", „Holyagos" Madarkas", „Lazafurtu" „Valtozo") and colour mutation of the grape being propagated in the Tokaji region. There is also a pink-skinned colour mutation of Piros Furmint. There is a special Furmint vine plantation in Orseg under the name of "Vocsok Furmint" initiated by a friendly group of Hungarian wine-experts. Viniculture experts have noted that the proliferation of so many clones of Furmint found almost exclusively in the Tokaj region of Hungary are strong indicators that the grape likely originated in this region as opposed to be introduced from another area. Furmint is ideal for producing botrytized dessert wines. There is several ways Tokaji Furmint is promoted (competitions, tasting events, wine exhibitions in scope of classical music, opera, folk festivals etc.) Every year there is a Feast of Madi Furmint organized in the village of Mad in Borsod-Abauj-Zemplen County in the North-Hungary Region. Joint opportunity: organization of a cross-border Furmint - Sipon wine festival.
Continuing this research, it would be a challenge to make a comparison between certain regional gastronomy traditions jointly with gastro-festival events, where typical local or regional food specialities are prepared based on ancient historic cousin together with an ideal selection of wine products originating and produced in the same region. Case studies from Slovenian and Hungarian side can be demonstrated and compared. An ideal Hungarian example might be the old tradition of the South Danube Fish Soup made on an ancient receipt (Mako Onion and Kalocsai Red Ground Paprika are indispensable components). Jointly with the Fish Soup Festival in Baja - belonging to the Hungaricum collection in Tourism (Martin, 2007), where community participants are cooking and eating fish soup with noodles and drinking wines from the local historical wine regions (Hajos-Baja PDO protected, or Szekszard PDO protected).
CONCLUSIONS
The quality protection schemes introduced and operated by the European Union as well as each national quality regulation system are for the benefit of agricultural producers, food processors, tourism SMEs concerned. The protected quality brand should provide special values and appeals in order to differentiate products in the market. However, as our
previous researches also highlighted, producers might have difficulties with the very complicated and costly application procedures to receive certain protection brands (Blatnik and Bojnec, 2015). On the other hand, in several cases they are not able to enjoy the price premiums, which should be created by the protections provided by the certification programs. High transaction costs are often constraining the effective use of available protection measures by small scale individual agricultural and food processing producers (Voros and Gemma, 2015).
Gastronomic heritage represents the platform for the protection of agricultural products and foodstuffs and gives an opportunity for developing innovative gastronomy tourism, which connects local actors (producers, local market organizers, restaurant owners etc.) with tourists in destinations concerned. It creates a base for the destinations to communicate on national and international level as well. Gastronomic heritage, as an innovative development platform for improving the future of protected agricultural products and foodstuffs, must be alive otherwise it is only a simple "historical site of memory" on the past. For example, in catering SMEs traditional dishes need to be technologically renewed and adapted to the needs of modern consumers. The challenges ahead are also related to the interactive and bilateral promotion of the farmers, food artisans and the restaurateurs.
Gastronomy tourism, as an alternative tourism form out of the mass tourism, can provide important advantages at country, regional and local level as well by improving the fortune of food and tourism SMEs. This new tourism product is developing and spreading rapidly in all over the world. Gastronomy tourism means an important marketing instrument from at least two sides: firstly, it aids marketing of food products at rural destinations, secondly, it can be operated continuously along the whole year, therefore it provides a tool to avoid seasonality. In addition, local food and gastronomy capacity provides an efficient alternative for destinations without having the benefit of "sea, lake, river, sun and sand" and generates not only important added value for several rural touristic destinations but creates a market of its own (Kivela and Crotts, 2005). Gastronomy tourism represents an effective, and mostly unexploited, medium of recognizing and promoting the protected agricultural products and foodstuffs on national and international level. It primarily connects the agricultural sector with tourism, culture and education sectors involving public, private and civil actors, partners as well as it can considerably contribute to sustainable development of the tourism destinations in countryside.
Considering the fact that all protected agricultural products and foodstuffs are linked to some gastronomic identities of a region or territory these are the best ambassador and medium of domestic and international recognition of tourism destinations (Gacnik, 2012). On a competitive gastronomy tourism market those stakeholders will be winners who are capable to be creative, innovative and respectful to the gastronomic heritage. Those, who can take into account seasonality and local supply networks. Those who will be able to create and tell stories about the way of life and the dietary,
30
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
gastronomy culture of the local population through protected agricultural products, foodstuffs and gastronomic specialties characterising the territory. But it could not be successful without prior market analyses and preparing communicative stories as well as without developing improved territorial marketing portfolios and local business models. Consumers need to be aware of the importance of locally grown food, especially ecological products.
Therefore, the food and gastronomic identities can be exposed and communicated not only by the favourable characteristics of quality products but by "stories" connected to the place, history and traditions of their production. Story telling about agricultural products and foodstuffs can also create an added value and, at the same time, relevant elements of qualitative distinction in the agricultural and tourism market. As a marketing tool it can also be understood as an informal education of consumers. From the viewpoint of actors of gastronomy tourism this is not only attractive, but above all a necessity; e.g. by communicating the story about the Carniolan Sausage, which also has its own luxurious monograph in Slovenia, could have directly an effect on the price of this product.
For the future of gastronomy tourism, it is important to educate farmers on tourism (especially gastronomy) knowledge as well as tourism professionals on gastronomy, cuisine art or culinary knowledge and utilization of protected agricultural products and foodstuffs. Despite the fact that there are some examples of good practice of cooperation between ecological farmers and tourism professionals, restaurateurs there is an expectation of restaurants that all the ingredients on the selected restaurant cards (food, drinks, oils etc.) should be identified by names of the producers.
Gastronomy tourism encourages networking of stakeholders at the destination, which can influence and contribute to increase the confidence of the local population for protecting the local cultural and gastronomic heritage, local supply chain, landscape as well as to encourage creativity and innovation, which can create evident value added for SMEs and promote sustainable rural development.
Previous research studies proved that several traditional foods, spirits and wine products with EU or national protection have not been successfully promoted and obtained recognitions by the domestic or foreign consumers. This paper justifies that desirable criterions, characteristics and quality requirements of traditional food and wine products need to be scientifically re-examined before promotion. The future of protected agricultural products and foodstuffs depends not only on the level of protection, the brand achieved and its control, but above all on the level of the market visibility on the effectiveness of promotion. It should be emphasized that protected agricultural quality products and foodstuff without sophisticated "heritage stories" could not be promoted and sold successfully and demonstrated in attractive events, festivals, and consequently in any internationally competitive gastronomy tourism destinations. Previous and future interdisciplinary research works, not limited on simple market analyses, as well as the level of interest of the food-processing industry will also greatly determine the success. Agro-tourisms and small-scale artisan and boutique producers cannot be the main generators for positioning of
protected products on the market on a long term. But the viewpoints of gastronomy tourism as such should also be considered indispensably.
Gastronomy tourism as an ideal medium for international recognition and promotion of destinations should be based on designing and developing improved territorial marketing portfolios. New ways of promotion will have to be introduced and applied by the convergence and integration of protected food products as marketable rural values and attractions in gastronomy tourism. This will lead the introduction of a new paradigm of gastronomy tourism by utilizing the most modern tools of digital and web-marketing communication, which provides an advance to move from quality to excellence. The future success of protected agricultural products and foodstuffs will greatly depend on their strategic involvement in gastronomy tourism development.
REFERENCES
1.	Bartolj, J. (2016). A Very Special Onion. Retrieved from: http://www.rtvslo.si/news-in-english/slovenia-revealed/ a-very-special-onion/376046
2.	Blatnik, P., & Bojnec, Š. (2015). Activities for Promotion of Local Food and Protected Agricultural Products in Slovenia. Complete Working Papers present work being conducted within the COMPETE research project (International comparison of product supply chains in the agro-food sector). Retrieved from: http://www.compe-te-project.eu/fileadmin/compete/files/working_paper/ COMPETE_Working_Paper_15_promotional_activiti-es.pdf
3.	Ciani, A., & Diotallevi, F. (2013). Sustainable Management and Promotion of Territory: Project Experiental Activities from Umbria (Italy). In: The 6 th International Scientific Conference on Rural Development. Conference Proceedings, 6(1), 63-68. Lithuania: Aleksandras Stulginskis University. Retrieved from: http://asu.lt/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/1_book_01.pdf
4.	Ciani, A., Vórós, M., & Fagioli, F. F. (2016). The Role of Local Food Chain in the Sustainable Management and Promotion of Territories. A Comparison Case Study of Umbria Region in Italy and the Sub-Region of Pest County in Hungary. Italian Review of Agricultural Economics, 71(1), 546-559. Retrieved from: https://oajournals. fupress.net/index.php/rea/article/view/9896
5.	Description of indigenous and traditional breeds of domestic animals (Attachment 8). (Opis avtohtonih in tradicionalnih pasem domačih živali, Priloga 8). (2007). Rural Development Program of Republic of Slovenia (2007-2013)
6.	European Commission (2017): Database of Origin and Registration (DOOR). EU quality schemes (Slovenia). Retrieved from: http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/ door/list.html
7.	European Commission (2019): Database of Origin and Registration (DOOR). EU quality schemes (Slovenia). Retrieved from: http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/ quality/door/list.html?&recordStart=0&locale=en&fi lter.dossierNumber=&filter.comboName=&filterMin.
31
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
milestone__mask=&filterMin.milestone=&filterMax.
milestone__mask=&filterMax.milestone=&filter.
country=SI&filter.category=PDOPGI&filter. type=&filter.status=
8.	European Parliament and the Council of the European Union (2012) Agricultural Product Quality Schemes (COM (2010)0733 - C7-0423/2010 - 2010/0353(COD)). Brussels: European Parliament.
9.	Food in the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Slovenia and its certification (2017). 6th meeting of cultural heritage of Slovenia (Prehrana v Registru nesnovne kulturne dediščine in njeno certificiranje, 6. Srečanje kulturne dediščine Slovenije). Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj -Ormož.
10.	Gačnik, A. (2012). Gastronomy heritage as a source of development for gastronomy tourism and as a means of increasing Slovenia's tourism visibility. Academica Turística, 5(2), 39-60.
11.	Gačnik, A. (2014a). Slovenian wine stories and wine identities: from heritage and culture of wine to wine tourism. In M. Harvey, L. White & W. Frost (Eds.), Wine and identity: branding, heritage, terroir (pp: 57-70). London, New York: Routledge.
12.	Gačnik, A. (2014b). Wine and gastronomy tourism - A strategic development opportunity for Slovenia. Wine and Culinary News. Zavod SloVino, pp. 22-25.
13.	Government of the Republic of Slovenia (2018): Strategic plan for the promotion of agricultural and food products 2019-2025 (Strateški načrt promocije kmetijskih in živilskih proizvodov 2019-2025). Ljubjana, 2018.
14.	Hall, C. M., & Mitchell, R. (2005). Gastronomic tourism. Comparing food and wine tourism experiences. In: M. Novelli (Ed.), Niche tourism: Contemporary Issues, Trends and Cases (pp. 73-88). Oxford, MA: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann.
15.	Hall, C. M., & Sharples, L. (2008). Future issues and trends: Food events, festivals and farmers' markets. In C. M. Hall & L. Sharples (Eds.), Food and Wine Festivals and Events Around the World: Development, Management and Markets (pp. 3-22). Oxford, MA: Elsevier Butterworth Heinemann.
16.	Hungarian Ministry of Agriculture Deputy State Secretary for Protection of Product Origin, 2017. Retrieved from: http://eredetvedelem.kormany.hu/oltalmi-listak
17.	Kocbek since 1929 (2017). Retrieved from: http://koc-bek.si/en/our-products/
18.	List of autochthonous and traditional varieties of agricultural plants (2002). Retrieved from: https://www.ura-dni-list.si/glasilo-uradni-list-rs/vsebina/48093
19.	Lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage and the Register of Good Safeguarding Practises (2017). UNESCO. Retrieved from: https://ich.unesco.org/en/lists
20.	Hungarian Ministry of Agriculture (2019). Hungarikum Collections. Hungarikum Committee. Retrieved from http://www.hungarikum.hu/kat/6987
21.	Hungarian Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development MARD (2000). Collection of Hungary's traditional and local agricultural products. Traditions-Flavours-Regions (HÍR). 2000. CD-ROM.
22.	Kerma, S., Gačnik, A. (2015). Wine Tourism as an
Opportunity for Tourism Development: Examples of Good Practice in Slovenia. Journal of International Food & Agribusiness Marketing, 27(4), 1-13.
23.	Kiserdi-Pallo, I. (2009). Traditions-Tastes-Regions Program in Hungary and its Green Paper Aspects. Conference Paper. EU High Level Conference on the Future of Quality Policy of Agricultural Products and Foodstuffs, Prague.
24.	Kivela, J., & Crotts, J. C. (2005). Gastronomy Tourism. A Meaningful Travel Market Segment. Journal of Culinary Science & Technology, 4(2-3), 39-55.
25.	Kumar, S. (2008). Focus on Food. Resurgence & Ecolo-gist. Retrieved from: https://www.resurgence.org/maga-zine/article2645-focus-on-food.html
26.	Kürthy, G. (2016). Producer survey on Traditions Flavours Regions (TFR) Trademark users. Paper presented at EOQ Hungary Terra Madre Conference. 8 December 2016.
27.	Lebe, S. S., Blažič, P. et al (2006). Strategija razvoja ga-stronomije Slovenije (Slovene gastronomy development strategy). Ljubljana (Multidisciplinarni raziskovalni institut Maribor, Slovenian tourist board).
28.	Murkovic, M., Hillebrand, A., Winkler, J., Leitner, E., & Pfannhauser, W. (1996). Variability of fatty acid content in pumpkin seeds (Cucurbita pepo L.). Zeitschrift für Lebensmittel-Untersuchung und Forschung, 203(3), 216219.
29.	Official Journal of the European Union (2012). Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 21 November 2012 on quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs.
30.	Pumpkin seed oil: 12 beneficiary effects on health (Bučno olje: 12 koristnih učinkov za zdravje) (2017). Retrieved from: https://www.bodieko.si/bucno-olje-koristi
31.	Martin, N. (2007). Come and Eat Fish Soup With Us! Baja's Fish Festival as Spectacle and Performance. In: B. Pusztai (Ed.), Tourism, Festivals and Local Identity: Fish-soup cooking in Baja (pp. 83-101). Hungary: University of Szeged Press.
32.	Register of the Intangible Cultural Heritage on Ministry of Culture (2017). Retrieved from: http://www.nesnov-nadediscina.si/sl/register
33.	Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hungary (2019). Retrieved from: http://szellemikulturalisorokseg. hu/index0.php?name=f1_szko
34.	Shaban, A., & Sahu, R. (2017). Pumpkin Seed Oil: An Alternative Medicine. International Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemical Research, 9(2), 223-227.
35.	Slovenian Ethnographic Museum (2017). Register of the intangible cultural heritage of Slovenia (2008-2016). Ljubljana. Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017): Natural mineral, springwater and table water. Retrieved from: http://www.uvhvvr.gov.si/si/ delovna_podrocja/zivila/naravne_mineralne_izvirske_ vode_in_namizne_vode/
36.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2006). Protected agricultural products or foodstuffs. p. 36.
37.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Promotion of local food. Retrieved from: http://
32
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
www.mkgp.gov.si/si/delovna_podrocja/promocija_lo-kalne_hrane/
38.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Rural Development Program of the Republic of Slovenia for the period 2007-2013. Description of indigenous and traditional breeds of animals.
39.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Sheme kakovosti. Retrieved from: http://www. mkgp.gov.si/fileadmin/mkgp.gov.si/pageuploads/po-drocja/Kmetijstvo/zascita_kmetijskih_pridelkov_zivil/ SHEME_KAKOVOSTI.pdf
40.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Specifications of agricultural products and foodstuffs at the national level. Retrieved from: http://www. mkgp.gov.si/si/delovna_podrocja/kmetijstvo/zasci-ta_kmetijskih_pridelkov_oziroma_zivil/specifikacije_ kmetijskih_pridelkov_in_zivil_zascitenih_pri_evrop-ski_komisiji/specifikacije_kmetijskih_pridelkov_in_zi-vil_na_nacionalnem_nivoju/
41.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Žgane pijače (Spirits). Retrieved from: http:// www.mkgp.gov.si/si/delovna_podrocja/kmetijstvo/ka-kovost_pridelkov_in_zivil/zgane_pijace/
42.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2017). Retrieved from: http://www.mkgp.gov.si/si/de-lovna_podrocja/kmetijstvo/kakovost_pridelkov_in_zi-vil/zgane_pijace/.Last accessed on 20.7.2017
43.	Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food (2010). Slovenian protected agricultural products and foodstuffs. Ljubljana. 2010.
44.	Slovenian Ministry of Economic Development and Technology Republic of Slovenia (2017). Strategy for sustainable growth of Slovenian tourism 2017-2021 (Strategija trajnostne rasti slovenskega turizma 2017-2021), Ljubljana.
45.	Slovenian Ministry of Economic Development and Technology Republic of Slovenia (2018). Taste Slovenia, Slovenia's candidature to become European Region of Gastronomy 2021. Bid Book. 2018.
46.	Sommelier Society of Slovenia. Retrieved from: http:// www.sommelier-slovenije.si/?page=novice&nid=220.
47.	Štajersko-prekmursko Pumpkin Seed Oil of Slovenia (2017). Retrieved from: http://kocbek.si/en/our-produc-ts/stajersko-prekmursko-pumpkin-seed-oil-slovenia
48.	Tregear, A., Tôrôk, A., & Gorton, M. (2016). Geographical indications and upgrading of small-scale producers in global agro-food chains: A case study of the Mako's Onion Protected Designation of Origin. Environment and Planning A, 48(2), 433-451. Retrieved from: http://jour-nals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/0308518X15607467
49.	Vina Slovenije (Wines of Slovenia) (2019). Retrieved from: https://www.slovenia.info/sl/dozivetja/kulinarika/ vina-slovenije
50.	Voros, M., & Gemma, M. (2015). Promotion of Local Agricultural and Food Products by Using Geographical Indications and Traditional Specialties Guaranteed Schemes in Hungary. Proceedings of 20th IFMA Congress. Canada, July 15, 2015, pp.458-466. Retrieved from: http://ifmaonline.org/proceedings/20th-vol1
51.	Vôrôs, M., & Gemma, M. (2011). Current Status, Future
Trends & Real-life Cases from Japan. In M. Bourlakis, V. Zeimpekis & I. Vlachos (Eds.), Intelligent Agrifood Chains and Networks (pp.227-248). Oxford, MA: Wiley-Blackwell Publishing.
52.	Williams, H. A., Williams Jr., R. L., & Omar, M. (2014). Gastro-tourism as destination branding in emerging markets. International Journal of Leisure and Tourism Marketing, 4(1), 1-18.
53.	Židov, N. (2017). Certification of Culinary and UNESCO Convention on the Protection of Intangible Cultural Heritage (Certificiranje kulinarike in Unescova Konvencija o varovanju nesnovne kulturne dediščine). Food in the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Slovenia and its certification. 6th meeting of cultural heritage of Slovenia (Prehrana v Registru nesnovne kulturne dediščine in njeno certificiranje, 6. Srečanje kulturne dediščine Slovenije). 2017. Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj - Ormož.
33
Protected Food & Wine Products as a Driving Force for Creativity and Innovation of Gastronomy Tourism Development
Zaščitena živila in vina kot gonilna sila kreativnosti in inovativnosti razvoja gastronomskega turizma: primer Slovenije in Madžarske
IZVLEČEK
Svetovne turistične statistike kažejo, da je več kot tretjina turistične porabe namenjena hrani. Visokokakovostna lokalna hrana in vino postajajo posebna gonilna sila razvoja turizma tako v mestih kot na podeželju. Turiste vse bolj zanima udeležba na gastronomskih prireditvah s hrano, vini in drugimi gastronomskimi posebnostmi, sejmi, tržnice z lokalnimi kmetijskimi proizvodi in degustacije kakovostnih prehrambenih izdelkov. Gastronomski turizem se razvija kot nov turistični produkt. Dosedanje raziskave so pokazale, da številni tradicionalni zaščiteni kmetijski pridelki, živila, jedi in vina, zaščiteni znotraj evropskih shem kakovosti ali z nacionalnimi označbami, niso bili uspešno promovirani in prepoznani na domačem ali tujem trgu. V članku želimo izpostaviti, da je potrebno tipične, tradicionalne kmetijske pridelke, živila, jedi in vina, kot pomembne gastronomsko turistične atrakcije, pred promocijo najprej znanstveno raziskati. Predlagamo nove načine gastronomsko turistične promocije, ki temeljijo na izboljšanem portfelju teritorialnega trženja, ki ustvarja dodano vrednost za mala in srednja podjetja, kar zagotavlja napredek za prehod od kakovosti k odličnosti.
Ključne besede: gastronomska dediščina, gastronomski turizem, zaščiteni kmetijski pridelki in živila, gastronomsko turistične atrakcije, čezmejni razvoj
34