ACTA CARSOLOGICA	34/3	10	784-814	LJUBLJANA 2005
COBISS: 1.01
ŽIVETI Z JEZEROM, ŽIVETI BREZ JEZERA. UVOD V RAZISKOVANJE NAČINA ŽIVLJENJA OB PETELINJSKEM IN PALŠKEM PRESIHAJOČEM JEZERU
LIVING WITH THE LAKE, LIVING WITHOUT THE LAKE.
AN INTRODUCTION INTO THE RESEARCH OF THE WAY OF LIFE BY THE INTERMITTENT KARSTIC LAKES PETELINJSKO JEZERO AND PALŠKO JEZERO
MARTINA ERJAVEC1 & MAGDA PERŠIČ1
1Notranjski muzej Postojna, Ljubljanska cesta 10, SI-6230 Postojna, Slovenija e-mail: martina.erjavec@studioproteus.si, magda.persic@guest.arnes.si
Izvleček
Abstract
UDK: 556.5:908(497.4 Pivka)
Martina Erjavec & Magda Peršič: Živeti z
jezerom, živeti brez jezera
Uvod v raziskovanje načina življenja ob
Petelinjskem in Palškem presihajočem
jezeru
Petelinjci in Palčani so se skozi stoletja prilagajali spremenljivi naravi presihajočih jezer. Obe jezeri sta poplavljeni le del leta, tako da travnate površine v poletnem času praviloma omogočajo vsakoletni pridelek sena. Palško jezero in obrežje Petelinjskega jezera sta primerna za pašo. V gospodarskem pogledu sta jezeri bili in sta še vedno vezani na vzrejo živine. Kmetovanje na tem področju v današnjem času ne prinaša dobička, zato se bo v prihodnosti krajina ohranila taka kot je le, če bo država namenila kmetijski dejavnosti dovolj denarne pomoči. Na jezero je bila do srede dvajsetega stoletja vezana še ena gospodarska dejavnost, in sicer ledarstvo. Dodatni dopolnilni dejavnosti, ki sta pogojeni z jezerom, sta lov in nabiralništvo. Petelinjci in Palčani so bili v preteklosti prisiljeni svoji jezeri deliti z avstroogrsko, italijansko in jugoslovansko vojsko, ki so za seboj pustile še danes vidne sledi. Jezeri s svojo nenavadno in nadvse slikovito naravo domačinom predstavljata kraj miru in sprostitve.
Ključne besede: etnologija, Petelinjsko jezero, Palško jezero, način življenja ob jezeru, oskrba z vodo, gospodarstvo ob jezeru, paša, košnja, ledarstvo, nabiralništvo, lov, vojaške vaje na jezeru, prosti čas, turizem, odnos do jezera, Pivška kotlina, Slovenija.
UDC: 556.5:908(497.4 Pivka)
Martina Erjavec & Magda Peršič: Living with the lake, living without the lake An introduction into the research of the way of life by the intermittent karstic lakes Petelinjsko jezero and Palško jezero
People of Petelinje and Palčje have adapted to the ever-changing nature of the intermittent karstic lakes through the centuries. Both lakes are filled with water only a part of the year, so that the grassy areas usually provide a yearly harvest of hay. Palško jezero and the shores of Petelinjsko jezero are suitable for pasturing. Economically the lakes were and still are connected with raising livestock. Agriculture is now no longer profitable, so the only way to preserve the land is by the state devoting enough money for agriculture. The lake was connected to another economic activity until the middle of the 20th century, ice making. Additional supplementary activities dependent on the lake are hunting and gathering. Petelinje and Palčje villagers had to share their lakes with the Austro-Hungarian, Italian and Yugoslav armies in the past; they left traces that can still be seen today. The lakes, with their unusual and highly picturesque nature, represent a place of peace and relaxation to the locals.
Keywords: ethnology, Petelinjsko jezero, Palško jezero, way of life by a lake, water supply, economy by the lake, pasturing, harvesting, ice making, gathering, hunting, military exercise on the lake, free time, tourism, relations with the lake, Pivka basin, Slovenia.
UVOD
INTRODUCTION
V pričujočem prispevku je predmet obravnave način življenja ljudi, ki sobivajo z dvema največjima Pivškima jezeroma, to sta Petelinjsko in Palško jezero, ki sta zaradi naravnih danosti naravni vrednoti državnega pomena, medtem ko so vsa preostala Pivška jezera naravne vrednote lokalnega pomena (Cernatič-Gregorič & Gorkič 2005). Časovni okvir raziskave obsega obdobje od konca druge svetovne vojne do današnjih dni. Pisnih virov, ki bi pričali o samem življenju ob jezerih, ni veliko, zato je v raziskavi uporabljena predvsem stacionarna metoda dela. Metoda prinaša tiste posebne vrste virov (od besed do reči) in spoznanj, ki dajejo etnološkim spoznanjem posebno kakovost, zlasti v primerjavi z utrjeno akademsko prakso drugih disciplin. Sama po sebi namreč ta metoda omogoča pogled od spodaj, z mikroravni, vsaj za čas osebnega in kolektivnega spomina, ki je pogosto drugačen od tako ali drugače dokumentiranega pisanja o preteklosti. Raziskovalca z eno od svojih pomembnejših prvin - pogovori z ljudmi - neogibno, tako v raziskovalnem kakor razlagalnem postopku, približuje posamezniku (Slavec- Gradišnik 2000).
PETELINJSKO JEZERO
The topic of this article is the way of life of people coexisting with the two largest Pivka lakes, the Petelinjsko jezero and the Palško jezero, named after the villages Petelinje and Palčje, which are, because of their natural characteristics, natural treasures of national significance, while all the other Pivka lakes are natural treasures of local significance (Cernatič-Gregorič & Gorkič 2005). The time frame of the research is the era since the Second World War onwards. There are not many written sources documenting the life by the lakes itself, thus the stationary method of work was mostly employed in the research. This method provides us with those special kinds of sources (from words to things) and knowledge that give ethnological discoveries a special quality, especially compared to the hardened academic practice in other disciplines. The method in itself enables us to find a view from below, from the micro level, at least for the time of the personal and collective memory, which often differentiates from the writings about the past documented in one way or another. The researcher, carrying out one of the most elementary parts of the method - interviewing people, is inadvertently, in both the research and the explanatory process, brought close to the individuals (Slavec Gradišnik 2000).
Petelinjsko jezero je drugo največje jezero na Pivki s površino okrog 700.000 m2. Leži v ovalni depresiji ob vznožju Okrogleka, podaljšanega hrbta Svete Trojice. Od vasi Petelinje je oddaljeno približno 3 km. To jezero je od vseh Pivških jezer najbolj obstojno, saj se voda v njem zadržuje tudi do pol leta. Voda privre na površje v talnih izvirih na južnem delu jezera, ponikne pa skozi prepustna tla na južnem in severnem koncu (Habič 1975, Habič 2005). Samo jezero je razdeljeno na več delov: Delci, Jezernice, Koti, Jeglenk in Njivce.
PETELINJSKO JEZERO
Petelinjsko jezero is the second largest Pivško lake, its area covers around 700 000 m2. It lies in an oval depression at the foothills of Okroglek, the prolonged ridge of Sveta Trojica (Holy Trinity). It is located about 3 km from the village Petelinje. This lake is the most permanent of all the Pivka lakes, as the water is retained for up to six months. It bubbles to the surface in surface springs in the south part of the lake and disappears through the permeable ground in the south and the north parts (Habič 1975, Habič 2005). The lake itself is divided into several parts: Delci, Jezernice, Koti, Jeglenk and Njivce.
PALŠKOJEZERO
PALŠKOJEZERO
Palško jezero je po površini največje presihajoče na Pivki. Leži nekaj višje od Petelinjskega jezera. Nastaja severno od vasi Palčje, v poldrugi kilometer dolgi in pol kilometra široki depresiji s precej uravnanim, nasutim dnom. Približno četrtino leta se v njej nahaja jezero, ki se napolni ob vsakem večjem deževju, predvsem spomladi in jeseni. V povprečju voda zalije 1.000.000 m2 travnate površine. Kadar se vodna gladina dvigne nad 552 m, dobi jezero na svoji severni strani dva velika zaliva jezera, imenovana Njivce in Ždink. Na sredi med njima se dviga 606 m visoki Jezerščak. Jezero se deli še na Filajevo jezero, Filajev graben, Mala jezera, Velika jezera in Kotliče.1 Palško jezero dobiva vodo iz več izvirov, med najmočnejšimi je Matijeva jama. Matijeva jama je značilna kraška estavela, ki bruha in požira vodo (Habič 1975, Habič 2005). Med obema vojnama so Italijani v tej jami zgradili vodno črpalko, s katero so iz jame črpali vodo za oskrbo vojske. Sistem črpanja vode iz jame pa je bil že ob prvem večjem izbruhu te kraške estavele popolnoma uničen.
Palško jezero is the largest intermittent karstic Pivka lake. It is located a bit higher than Petelinjsko jezero. It appears north of the village Palčje, in a kilometre and a half long and half a kilometre wide depression with a levelled sediment floor. The lake exists for about a quarter of the year; it is filled during all major rainfalls, especially in the spring and the autumn. On average the water floods around 1.000.000 m2 of grassy surfaces. When the water level rises above 552 m, the water also flows into two huge bays on the north side of the lake, called Njivce and Ždink. Between them, the 606 m high hill Jezerščak rises. The lake is also divided into Filajevo jezero, Filajev graben, Mala jezera, Velika jezera and Kotliče.1 Palško jezero receives water from several springs, one of the strongest being Matijeva jama. Matijeva jama is a typical karstic estavelle, which discharges and swallows water (Habič 1975, Habič 2005). Between the two wares the Italians built a water pump in the cave, using it to pump water out of the cave to supply the army. But the water pumping system was completely destroyed during the first big discharge of this estavelle.
PETELINJE IN PALČJE - OBJEZERSKI VASI
Čeprav se ob jezeru poleg Petelinj nahajata še dve vasi - Slovenska vas in Trnje, si jezero že od nekdaj lastijo Petelinjci, ki o svojem jezeru govorijo s ponosom. Med vaščani še vedno kroži pripoved, kako so si z zvijačo pridobili jezero. Že leta 1910 je zgodbo zapisal Janez Zabukovec: »Petelinsko jezero je slabe pol ure od Trnja pod Sveto Trojico. Dolgo je komaj 20 minut, široko še manj. V njem imajo Petelinci senožeti. Pripoveduje se, da je nekdaj bilo trnjsko, pa so se ga polastili Petelinci. Prišlo je do pravde. Petelinci so morali priseči, da je jezero njihova last. Prisega se je vršila na licu mesta. 'Ali prisežeš, da stojiš na petelinski zemlji?' slovesno vpraša sodnik zastopnika Petelincev. 'Prisežem,' odgovori Petelinec in je prisegel. Da bi si bil pa olajšal vest, nasul je bil
PETELINJE AND PALČJE - VILLAGES BY THE LAKE
Even though two more villages besides Petelinje are located next to the lake, it has always been claimed by the people of Petelinje. They are very proud of their lake. There is still a tale circulating among the villagers about how they used a trick to gain ownership of the lake. Already in 1910, the story was written down by Janez Zabukovec: »Petelinje jezero is about a thirty minute walk away from Trnje below Sveta Trojica. It is only twenty minutes long and even less wide. Petelinje farmers have their hayfields in it. It is told that it was once owned by Trnje, but then appropriated by Petelinje. There was a lawsuit and the people of Petelinje had to swear that they owned the lake. The oath was taken on site. 'Do you swear you are standing on Pe-
doma petelinske zemlje v čevlje, na vrh položil petelinovo pero in se obul. Ko je prisegal, stal je res na petelinski zemlji. Jezero je sicer postalo petelinsko, a mož, ki je po krivem prisegel, si z zvijačo ni olajšal vesti. Pravijo, da je po smrti strašil ondod in si nihče ni upal tam ponoči hoditi. Pravljica še živi, a strah pred duhom se je izgubil« (Zabukovec 1910).
Predvsem med starejšimi vaščani je v odnosu do obeh jezer zaznati nekakšno strahospoštovanje, ki mu botrujejo utopitve ob plavanju v jezerih.2
V ustnem izročilu Petelinjcev je prisotna celo zgodba o množični utopitvi. Pod Vlačnim, pod vrhom Svete Trojice, je nekdaj stala vas, imenovana Vasišče. Na sveti večer so se vaščani Vasišča odpravili k polnočnici v dolino. Doma so ostali le starejši ljudje, bolniki in otroci. Prečkali so zamrznjeno Petelinjsko jezero, da bi hitreje prispeli do cerkve v Slavini. Ko so prišli do sredine jezera, se je led predrl in vsi so potonili. Vaščani, ki pa so ostali doma, so se naselili po okoliških vaseh (Zabukovec 1910).
Palčani zgodb o jezeru ne poznajo, le v poletnih dneh, ko vročina ne popušča, uporabljajo reklo, da je vruče, ku v jezeri. Jezerska kotanja je namreč poleti, v času košnje, skorajda brezvetrna, zato je bila vročina za Palčane ob ročnem spravilu sena skorajda neznosna.
Med Petelinjci in Palčani ne zasledimo potrebe po ojezeritvah oziroma osušitvah obeh jezer, saj so se domačini v preteklosti podredili muhavosti obeh jezer in skupaj z naravo sooblikovali krajino, s katero bivajo v edinstvenem sožitju.
OSKRBA Z VODO OB JEZERIH
Poplave se na Pivškem pojavljajo spomladi in jeseni,3 ko še ne povzročajo škode na pridelku. Čeprav ljudje živijo ob jezerih, jih je nekdaj, predvsem v poletnih mesecih, pestilo
telinje's soil?' asked the judge the representative of the Petelinje solemnly. 'I swear,' replied the representative and swore. But to lighten his conscience he had filled his shoes with soil from home and put a rooster's feather on top and then put them on. While swearing he was thus actually standing on Petelinje's soil. The lake did become the property of Petelinje, but the trick did nothing to alleviate the conscience of the man who swore falsely. They say that after his death he haunted the place, and no one dared to walk there at night. The story lives on, but the fear of the ghost has disappeared« (Zabukovec 1910).
Especially among the older villagers, a kind of wary respect can be felt in their relationship to both lakes, caused by swimmers drowning.2
In the oral tradition of the people of Petelinje there is another story about drowning present. Below Vlačno, below the top of Sveta Trojica there used to be a village called Vasišče. On the Holy Evening the villagers of Vasišče set off to attend the Midnight Mass in the valley. Only the elderly, the sick and the children stayed at home. They tried to cross the frozen Petelinje Jezero, to get to the church in Slavina quicker. But when they reached the middle of the lake, the ice broke and the lake claimed their lives. The villagers who stayed at home dispersed to other nearby villages (Zabukovec 1910).
The people of Palčje do not know any stories about the lake, only in the summer days, with their unrelenting heat; they use the saying that it is as hot as in the lake (vruče ku v jezeri). The lake basin is in the summer, at the time of the harvest, almost windless and the heat was almost unbearable for the farmers of Palčje while harvesting the hay.
Both Petelinje and Palčje villagers do not feel any need to make the lakes more permanent or to dry them up, as they have already subjected to the capriciousness of the two lakes in the past and, together with nature, co-designed the land in which they live in a unique symbiosis.
pomanjkanje vode.
WATER SUPPLY IN LAKE REGION
Petelinjci so imeli svoj vodovod že ob začetku dvajsetega stoletja (Zabukovec 1910). Iz vodnega zbiralnika iz Loze nad Petelinjami je bila voda po ceveh speljana do vasi, kjer so se v njenem središču nahajale tri pipe: pri Polhovih, pri kostanju sredi vasi in pri Slugovih. V vasi je bilo samo nekaj štirn, ki so bile po večini na kapnico. Le dve štirni v vasi, Valentinijeva in Skokova, sta se napajali iz zemeljskega izvira.4
V	vasi Palčje je bilo pred drugo svetovno vojno približno ducat štirn na kapnico, ki so bile v lasti večjih kmetov, sicer pa so se ostali Palčani oskrbovali z vodo iz dveh večjih vaških vodnjakov pred Kovačevo in Brivčevo hišo. Po vojni si je večina Palčanov zgradila lastne štirne.
Vodo iz osrednjih vaških vodnih virov so zajemali v lamper, nato pa jo prelili v druge posode, v škafe, ki so jih ženske nosile na glavah v svoja gospodinjstva, kjer so hranili vodo v čebrih, ki so morali biti vedno polni. Na vrhu čebra je bil pritrjen korc. Za prenašanje vode na polje ali v gozd pa so uporabljali barigalce.
Dodaten vir vode je prebivalcem teh vasi do konca druge svetovne vojne predstavljala deževnica; pred hišo so postavljali lesene in emajlirane škafe ter pocinkane banje, v katerih se je zbirala voda.
V	času suše so Petelinjci in Palčani hodili po vodo v Reple nad Gradcem,5 tam se je nahajala jama, v kateri se voda zadržuje skozi vse leto. Drugi stalni vir vode se je nahajal pri Radohovi vasi pod hribom Primož, kjer so italijanske oblasti v obdobju med obema vojnama postavile črpalko. Palčani so po vodo hodili še v Zagorje in Mrzlek pri Ribnici. Vodo so natočili v velike sode ali v lesene cisterne, imenovane koslade, in jo na legnarjih'6 s konji odpeljali domov.
Petelinje se je leta 1974 priključilo na regionalni vodovod, Palčje je dobilo svoj vodovod leta 1997. Voda iz vodnjakov se danes
There are floods in Pivka region in the spring and autumn,3 when they do not yet cause damage to the crops. Even though the people live by the lakes, they used to suffer from shortage of water, especially in the summer months.
Petelinje had its own water supply in the beginning of the 20th century already (Zabu-kovec 1910). From the water reservoir in Loze above Petelinje, the water was brought to the village through pipes. In the village centre there were three faucets: at the Polh household, by the chestnut tree in the middle of the village and at the Sluga household. In the village there were only a few štirne, mostly fed by rainwater. Only two štirni in the village, the Valentini and the Skok štirna were fed by an underground spring.4
Before the Second World War the village Palčje had around a dozen štirne fed by the rainwater, owned by bigger homesteads; other villagers drew water from two bigger communal wells in front of the Kovač and Brivec households. After the War most of the villagers constructed their own štirne.
The water from the main village water sources was drawn by a lamper and then poured into other vessels, into škaf, carried by women to their households on their heads where it was kept in čeber which had to be full all the time. On top of the čeber there was a korc. To carry the water to the fields or the forests they used barigalca.
Until the end of the Second World War rainwater was an additional water source: wooden and enamelled škaf and zinc-covered bathtubs were placed in front of the houses to gather the water.
In times of drought the villagers of Petelinje and Palčje had to get water from Reple above Gradec,5 where there was a cave in which water reamained throughout the whole year. Another
uporablja predvsem za zalivanje rož, vrtnin in za pranje avtomobilov.
GOSPODARSTVO OB JEZERIH
V Petelinjah in Palčjah, pa tudi drugod na Pivškem, so se ljudje v prvi polovici 20. stoletja preživljali v glavnem s kmetijstvom. Kmetije so bile zaključene produkcijske enote, kar pomeni, da so skoraj vso hrano, potrebno za preživetje, pridelali doma.
Pridelovali so žita (proso, rž, ječmen, ajdo,7 piro, pšenico, oves), stročnice (fižol, grah, bob, čičerko), od poljščin pa krompir, repo, korenje, peso, zelje in povrtnine; gojili so sadje (hruške, jabolka in slive), pridelovali so še seno. Od žit danes še vedno pridelujejo pšenico, oves, koruzo,8 od stročnic v glavnem fižol, količina poljščin se zmanjšuje, stanje povrtnin pa ostaja nespremenjeno.
Pomembno gospodarsko dejavnost je v prvi polovici dvajsetega stoletja tako na Pivškem kot v Petelinjah in Palčjah predstavljala živinoreja. Od živinorejskih panog je v obdobju po prvi svetovni vojni prevladovala ekstenzivna govedoreja; običajno so kmetje imeli nekaj parov goveda (sivo-rjava pasma), tisti revnejši pa kakšno ovco ali kozo. Le redki posamezniki so imeli po več ovac,9 ki so bile pomemben vir za prehrano, dajale pa so tudi surovine za oblačila (volna in koža). Letno so v gospodinjstvih vzredili prašiča ali dva za domačo uporabo, večji kmetje pa so gojili še eno ali več svinj z namenom, da skotijo mladiče, ki so jih še v osemdesetih letih prodajali na sejmih v Ilirski Bistrici, Pivki in Postojni. Po letu 1965 zasledimo upad celotne živinoreje, ki prične v drugi polovici sedemdesetih let ponovno naraščati. Vse večja je vzreja govedi, ovčarstvo se ponovno oživlja v osedemdesetih, konjereja pa je v vzponu od začetka devetdesetih let, ko konje redijo za prodajo mesa in v turistično-rekreacijske namene.
permanent water source was located near the village Radohova vas, below the hill Primož, where the Italian government constructed a water pump between the Wars. The villagers of Palčje also got water from Zagorje and from Mrzlek near Ribnica. The water was pumped into huge barrels or wooden cisterns, called koslada, and they used horses to pull the wagons transporting it back home on barrel supports (legnar).6
Petelinje was connected to the regional water supply network in 1974. Palčje got its own water network in 1997. Well water is today mostly used to water flowers and crops and to wash cars.
ECONOMY IN THE LAKE REGION
In Petelinje and Palčje, as well as in other places in Pivka region, the people were in the first half of the 20th century mostly farmers. The farms were complete production units, meaning that they produced almost all food needed for survival at home.
They produced grains: millet, rye, barley, buckwheat,7 spelt, wheat, oats; legumes: beans, peas, horse beans, chickpeas; of field produce there were: potatoes, turnips, carrots, beets, cabbages and garden vegetables. They also grew fruit: pears, apples and plums, and harvested hay. Of grains they still produce wheat, oats and maize,8 of legumes mostly beans, the quantity of field produce is diminishing and the quantity of garden vegetables remains the same.
An important economic activity in the first half of the 20'h century in Pivka basin, as well as in Petelinje and Palčje was livestock breeding. In the period after the First World War extensive stockbreeding was dominant. Most farmers had a few cows and bulls; the poorer ones had a sheep or a goat. Only a few individuals had more than one sheep,9 which was an important food source and also provided raw materials for clothes (wool and skin). Every year they raised
Konje, ki so po prvi svetovni vojni vedno bolj nadomeščali vole, so uporabljali za vprego in tovorjenje, za delo na polju, vleko v gozdu, furmanstvo, za prevoz vode in kontrabant. Uporaba konjev je naraščala vse do sedemdesetih let, ko je vlogo konja nadomestila mehanizacija.
S konjerejo je bilo v obdobju med obema vojnama povezano tihotapstvo, saj je na področju Zgornje Pivke cvetel predvsem kontrabant z živino (konji, voli), s katerim so se ukvarjali moški. Kontrabant je potekal predvsem v smeri Jugoslavija - Italija;10 z Notranjske so na to stran Javornikov tihotapili največ konje, kupljene na hrvaških konjskih sejmih, ki so jih Pivčani prodali na sejmih v Sežani in Trstu.11 Še po drugi svetovni vojni so Palčani tihotapili živino iz cone B v cono A.
Pomemben dodaten vir zaslužka je predstavljalo furmanstvo, ki je bilo v tesni povezavi z gozdarstvom, saj je bil poglaviten tovor furmanov prav les. Petelinjci in Palčani so les tovorili na žago v Šempeter na Krasu.12 V petdesetih letih dvajsetega stoletja, ko se je razširil promet s tovornjaki, je začelo furmanstvo postopoma izumirati.
Med obema vojnama so pivškemu kmetu predstavljala stranski vir zaslužka občasna enodnevna priložnostna dela (žrnade): urejejanje cest (tolkli so šuto), kidanje snega na železnici in pogozdovanje.
Gozdarstvo je bilo vse do druge svetovne vojne v domeni družine Windischgrätz, ki je bila od leta 1848 lastnica večine gozdov na Pivškem. Za spravilo in sečnjo lesa v snežniških gozdovih so najemali domačine. Pivčani iz lastnega gozda niso jemali več, kot so nujno rabili, v njem so videli zlato rezervo, zato so tudi v največjih stiskah zmerno posegali v to bogastvo (Sedej 1975). Petelinjci, predvsem pa Palčani, so čez teden hodili na delo v okoliške gozdove. Živeli so v gozdnih kolibah, kjer so si sami pripravljali hrano. Zaradi snega v zimskem času in poletne košnje se je sečnja vršila predvsem v
a pig or two for home use, and larger households additionally raised a sow or more in order to give birth to piglets, which were still sold in the eighties on fairs in Ilirska Bistrica, Pivka and Postojna. After 1965 a general decrease of stockbreeding can be noted, but the trend was reversed in the second half of the seventies. Cattle breeding became more widespread, sheep herding was revitalized in the eighties and horse rearing started up in the start of the nineties, when they started breeding horses for meat and for tourism and recreation.
Horses, which increasingly started replacing oxen after the First World War, were used as draught animals, packhorses, for work in the fields, hauling in the woods, for waggons (furmanstvo), for water transport and for smuggling. Horse use kept increasing until the seventies, when mechanization rendered the horse obsolete.
Horse breeding was connected to smuggling during the two Wars, because in the Upper Pivka region livestock smuggling, which was mostly run by men, was booming (horses, oxen). The main smuggling route was from Yugoslavia to Italy;10 from Notranjska they mostly smuggled horses bought at Croatian horse fairs to this side of Javorniki. They were sold by the Pivka residents on the fairs in Sežana and Trieste.11 Even after the Second World War the people of Palčje smuggled cattle from zone B to zone A.
An important extra source of income was cargo transport by waggons, which was closely connected with forestry, as the main cargo of the drivers (furmani) was wood. People of Petelinje and Palčje transported wood to the sawmill in Šempeter na Krasu.12 In the fifties, when truck transport became widespread, waggons (furmanstvo) started dying out.
Between the two wars a side income to the Pivka basin farmers was odd jobs (žrnade): maintaining roads (tolkli šuto), shoveling snow on the railroad, foresting.
spomladanskem in jesenskem času.
V	novi Jugoslaviji so gozdovi bivših veleposestnikov postali splošno ljudsko premoženje. S pivškimi gozdovi od leta 1947 upravlja Gozdno gospodarstvo Postojna.13
Domačini so se v petdesetih letih množično zaposlovali v novo nastali industriji.14 Kmetijstvo po drugi svetovni vojni postaja vse manj pomembno; tudi zaradi naravnanosti državne politike do kmeta se ohranja predvsem kot dopolnilna dejavnost. V Petelinjah se je v zadnjih treh desetletjih uveljavila tudi obrtniška dejavnost (avtoprevozništvo, gradbeništvo, trgovina).
V	gospodarskem pogledu sta bili, in sta še vedno, Petelinjsko in Palško jezero vezani na vzrejo živine, saj sta jezeri in njuni obrežji primerni za pridelovanje sena in pašo. Obe jezeri sta poplavljeni le del leta, tako da travnate površine v poletnem času praviloma omogočajo vsakoletni pridelek sena. Na samo preživetje domačinov pa jezeri nista odločilno vplivali, saj je tako v Petelinjah kot tudi v Palčjah dovolj preostalih površin, ki omogočajo kmetijsko dejavnost.
PASA NA JEZERIH
Palško jezero je zaradi manjše poplavljenosti in posledično daljše vegetacije rastja po košnji primerno tudi za pašo, ki je trajala vse do prvih jesenskih poplav.15 Nasprotno pa se v samem Petelinjskem jezeru živina ni nikoli pasla, temveč le ob obrobju jezera, ki je danes skorajda popolnoma zaraščeno z borom. S pašo se je zemlja čistila, zaradi gnojenja živine pa je bila tudi rodovitnejša. Nepopašena področja so pokosili za steljo. Od nekdanjih pašnikov na obrobju jezera se danes uporabljajo le Kozare, kjer se od začetka osemdesetih let pasejo ovce v ogradi.
Forestry was in the hands of the Windisch-grätz family all the way to the Second World War, they had owned most of the forests in Pivka region since 1848. They hired locals to bring in and fell down wood in the Snežnik forests. People of Pivka region did not take more than they urgently needed from their forests, they saw it as a gold reserve, and as such used it sparingly even in the most dire of times (Sedej 1975). People of Petelinje, and especially Palčje, worked in the nearby forests during the week; they lived in forest cottages, preparing their own food. Because of snow in the winter and harvest in the summer, felling was mostly done in the spring and autumn.
In the new Yugoslavia the forests of previous big land owners became public property. The forests of Pivka basin have been in the hands of Gozdno gospodarstvo Postojna (Forestry Economy Postojna)13 since 1947.
The locals were mass employed by the newly created industry in the fifties.14 Agriculture was losing importance after the Second World War. Partly because of the state policy towards farming, it became only a supplementary activity. In Petelinje small trade has become more prominent (transport, construction, shops) in the last three decades.
Economically speaking Petelinjsko jezero and Palško jezero were, and still are, dependent on livestock breeding, as the lakes and their shores are very suitable for growing hay and pasturing. Both lakes are only filled a part of the year, so that grassy areas in the summer as a rule produce a yearly harvest of hay. But the lakes were not an important factor for the survival of the locals, as both Petelinje and Palčje have enough other surfaces for agricultural activities.
Pašna in hlevska živinoreja sta se v Petelinjah in Palčjah izmenjavali, tako je živina
pol leta prebila v domačih hlevih, preostali del leta pa na vaških pašnikih. Paša je bila skupna, le v času pomanjkanja sena, zgodaj spomladi ali pozno poleti, so pasli posamezno. Po prenehanju skupinske paše nadaljujejo s pašo na lastnih travnikih, ki se nahajajo v bližini kmetij. Tradicionalna paša je potekala do sredine šestdesetih let.
Čednika so vaščani Petelinj običajno najeli za obdobje več let. Kolikor krav so imeli lastniki na paši, za toliko dni so morali gospodarji vzeti pastirja na rejo, to pomeni, da je pri določeni hiši jedel trikrat na dan in imel prenočišče. Gospodarji so morali dati po istem ključu poganiča na pašo. Poganiči so bili navadno otroci stari od deset do petnajst let, ki so čedniku pomagali pri paši. Paša jim je bila v veselje, saj so se tako izognili težjim kmečkim opravilom. Prav tako se je po številu govedi oblikoval delež za plačilo čednika. Za denarno izplačilo ob koncu sezone je poskrbel župan kraja. Vaščani so mu dodatno pripravili nekaj ozimnice.
V Palčjah so veljale pri najemu čednika iste zakonitosti kot v Petelinjah, le s to razliko, da je čednik imel stalno prenočišče. Spal je pri večjih kmetih oziroma pri tisti hiši, kjer so imeli več prostora. Poleg čednika so v Palčjah najeli še stalnega poganiča.
Pašo ob Petelinjskem jezeru so Petelinjci, Trnjani in vaščani Slovenske vasi16 začeli ob sv. Juriju (23. aprila) in jo končali ob sv. Mihaelu (29. septembra). Iz Petelinj do jezera so na pašo gnali okoli 100 glav goveda (med obema vojnama 150, po drugi svetovni vojni pa od 30 do 100). Pasli so tik ob jezeru in v bližnji okolici: na Kozarah, pod Vadnjalovo grižo, mimo Peščenih delcev do konca Godnovega vrta. Nad jezerom so pasli še vaščani Slovenske vasi: nad Peščenimi delci, na Polhovem hribu in Lenčajevi griži. Trnjani pa so pasli na nasprotni, vzhodni strani jezera: na Velkovem vrhu, Kozarah, Malem vlačnu in od Malega okrogleka vse do Godnovega vrta.
PASTURING IN THE LAKES
The Palško jezero, because of being submerged for less time and consenquently with a longer plant life cycle after the harvest, is also suitable for pasturing, which used to go on until the first autumn flooding.15 Conversely livestock never grazed in the Petelinjsko jezero, but only on its fringes, which are today almost completely overgrown by pine trees. Pasturing cleansed the land, and because of manure it was also more fertile. Ungrazed areas were harvested for litter. Of the once used pastures at the fringes of the lake only Kozare are used now, where sheep have been grazing in an enclosed area since the beginning of the eighties.
Pasturing and stabling were alternating in Petelinje and Palčje, the livestock spending half a year in their home stables and the rest on village pastures. The pasturing was communal; only when there were hay shortages, early in the spring or late in the summer, they pastured individually. After the end cease of communal pasturing, it was continued individually on private pastures located close to the farms. Traditional pasturing was extinct by the middle of the sixties.
The villagers of Petelinje usually hired a čednik for several years. The number of cows a person had grazing with the communal herd represented the number of days the herd owner had to host the čednik, meaning that he ate at their house three times a day and had a place to sleep. The owners also used the same system for providing a poganič for pasturing; they were usually children from ten to fifteen years old, helping the čednik with herding. The duty was a reward to them, as they thus avoided other, heavier farm work. And the number of cattle also dictated their contribution to the čednik pay. The monetary payment was done by the mayor of the village at the end of the season. And the villagers additionally prepared some winter stores for the čednik.
Čednik je s trobento oznanil začetek paše. Pašo so naznanjali še kovinski zvonci, ki so jih okoli vratu obešali kravam vodnicam. Živina se je zbrala na začetku vasi in pastirja sta jo poganjala z žajglo. Govedo so najprej napojili v vaški lokvi (Dolge luže) ob koncu vasi ali v betonskih napajalnikih za živino v sami vasi (pri Polhovih, sredi vasi pri kostanju in pri Slugovih). S pašo so pričeli ob petih zjutraj in se okoli enajste vračali z jezera domov. Do treh popoldne so imeli počitek, nato pa so se odpravili v drugo smer, proti zahodu, na Osojnico.
V obeh jezerih je bilo veliko mrčesa, ki so ga z živine odganjali s frasko - zeleno vejo (leska, rešeljika). Dodatno zaščito za živino je predstavljal karbolinej (karbolej) in žaltov špeh, s katerima so jo namazali. Zaščita je bila učinkovita dan ali dva. Iz istega razloga so pastirji nosili majico z dolgimi rokavi in dolge hlače.
Palčani so živino gnali v jezero ob velikem šmarnu (15. avgusta) in v njem pasli do konca septembra. Pasli so še na vaški gmajni, ki se nahaja ob robu vasi v smeri proti Juriščem, kjer so s pašo pričeli že meseca aprila in končali v začetku oktobra. Po košnji se je v jezeru po večini paslo govedo, medtem ko so se ovce pasle v jezeru le v manjši meri. Živina se je napajala v vaški lokvi sredi vasi. Na pašo so se odpravili zgodaj zjutraj, se opoldne vrnili v vas in popoldne odšli spet na pašo.
KOŠNJA NA JEZERIH
Košnja na Petelinjskem jezeru se prične konec avgusta, ko na Petelinjskem polju že pospravijo seno. V Palčjah so s košnjo nekdaj začeli ob sv. Jakobu (25. julija), ko so bili travniki nad jezerom v celoti pokošeni.17 Tudi danes se košnja pričenja ob koncu julija. Ker po jezeru ni poti, kosijo približno istočasno vsi lastniki parcel, da se seno v jezeru ne bi preveč poškodovalo. Pri košnji sena so v Palškem jezeru še prvo desetletje po vojni pomagali kosci iz Vipave, ti so v Palčjah ostali približno deset
Palčje had the same laws for hiring a čednik as Petelinje, the difference being that the čednik had a permanent place to sleep. He slept in bigger homesteads, or wherever they had more room. Alongside the čednik they also hired a poganič permanently.
Pasturing by the Petelinjsko Jezero by the people of Petelinje, Trnje and Slovenska vas16 usually began on St. George's Day (23rd April) and ended on St. Michael's Day (29th September). From Petelinje over 100 heads of cattle grazed (between the wars 150, after the Second World War between 30 and 100). They were pastured right next to the lake and its immediate surroundings: on Kozare, under Vadnjalova Griža, passing Peščeni Delci until the end of Godnov Vrt. Above the lake the villagers of Slovenska Vas herded their cattle as well: above Peščeni Delci, on Polhov Hrib and Lenčajeva Griža. People of Trnje pastured on the opposite, eastern side of the lake: on Velkov Vrh, Kozare, Malo Vlačno, Mali Okroglek, all the way to Godnov Vrt.
The čednik sounded the horn to mark the start of pasturing. It was also announced by metal bells, hanging around the leading cows' necks. The cattle were gathered at the beginning of the village and the herders used žajgla to prod them on. The cattle were first watered by the village lokva (Dolge Luže - Long Puddles) at the end of the village, or by the concrete pools for cattle in the village itself (by the Polh household, in the middle of the village by the chestnut tree, and by the Sluga household). Pasturing started at five in the morning, and around eleven they returned home from the lake. They were resting until three in the afternoon and then went the other way, towards the west, onto Osojnica.
Both lakes contained a lot of insects; they used fraska - green branches (hazel branches, mahaleb cherries) to get them off the animals. Additional protection was provided by carboline (karbolej) and rancid fat which were smeared on cattle. The protection was effective for a day
dni, včasih tudi do tri tedne. V jezeru je bilo v času košnje skupno okoli petdeset koscev.
Košnja se je v Petelinjskem in Palškem jezeru18 začela zgodaj zjutraj in je trajala do dvanajste ali trinajste ure, ob štirih popoldne, ko je najhujša vročina že pojenjala, so ponovno pričeli s košnjo. Kosili19 so izključno moški, najboljši kosec je odkosil prvi red, imenovan skušnik. Sledili so mu ostali moški s košnjo v vzporednih smereh. Kosec je nosil za pasom z vrvico pritrjen lesen oselnik, v katerem je bila nameščena osla.
Ženske so v jerbasih na glavi od doma prinesle hrano. Za zajtrk ob petih so pripravile ajdovo polento, jajca, pršut, ocvirke, kavo, kruh, za malico oziroma predjužnik okrog devete ure pa zelje, polento, meso, krompir v zelnici, klobaso, ocvirke, jajca in kuhano panceto. Jedi so bile močno zabeljene, saj so kosci potrebovali veliko energije za tako težavno delo. Iz barigalc in kjantarc so pili vodo,20 bevando ali krhljevko.
Petelinjci so obvarovali hrano in pijačo pred poletno vročino tako, da so jo prekrili z leskovino. Za hlajenje hrane in pijače so postavljali celo ute, nekakšne šotore iz sena - leskove veje in ostalo grmičevje so povezali v stožec in ga prekrili s senom. V tako imenovanih utah so hladili tudi lastno telo, ko je postalo prevroče. V Palškem jezeru pa so pijačo dali kar pod red sena.
Tako kot pastirjem je bil tudi koscem v obeh jezerih pri košnji v napoto mrčes, saj je kosec večkrat dejal sokoscu: »Bom samo jaz kosil, ti pa me z vejo pred muhami brani.« Pike in opekline so si blažili z doma pripravljenim rdečim oljem in z oljem belih lilij.
Ko se je rosa v obeh jezerih posušila, so nakošeno travo raztepli z grabljami in vilami, pri tem delu so sodelovale tako grabljice kot tudi kosci. Da bi se seno čim hitreje posušilo, so razstlane redi obračali ženske in otroci.21 V Petelinjskem jezeru se seno zaradi svoje gostote
or two. For the same reason the herders wore shirts with long sleeves and long pants.
The Palčje herders drove the livestock into the lake on Assumption Day (15th august) and pastured until the end of September. They also pastured in the village commons, located at the fringe of the village in the direction of Jurišče, where they started pasturing in April already and stopped in the beginning of October. After the harvest mostly cattle grazed in the lake; while sheep grazing in it was limited. Livestock was watered in the village pond in the middle of the village. They set off for pasturing early in the morning, returned back to the village at noon and went back in the afternoon.
HARVESTING THE LAKES
Harvest on Petelinjsko jezero starts in the end of August, when the hay is already being gathered from Petelinje field. They used to start harvesting on St. Jacob's Day, when the fields above the lake were completely cut.17 Now the harvest is still started at the end of July. Since there are no paths across the lake, the owners of the plots usually harvest at the same time, so the hay in the lake is not damaged too much. Assisting the harvest in Palško jezero for the first decade after the War, were the harvesters from Vipava, who stayed in Palčje for around ten days, sometimes even three weeks. During the harvest around fifty harvesters were present in the lake at once.
The harvest in Petelinjsko jezero and Palško jezero18 started early in the morning and lasted until twelve or one o'clock. At four in the afternoon, after the scorching heat had passed, they started again. Only men harvested,19 the best harvester cut the first swathe called skušnik. He was followed by other men harvesting in parallel directions. A harvester carried a wooden whetstone holder attached to his belt by a rope where the whetstone (osla) was stored.
suši tudi po tri dni, v Palškem celo štiri. V zaščito proti jutranji rosi so seno proti koncu dneva pograbili v zagrabek. Ob znakih slabega vremena so seno pospravili v kupe (luonce). Z dobro naloženimi lojtrniki,22 v katere so vpregli živino, so pridelek odpeljali domov na skedenj (puod). Po poti se je seno rado stresalo, ker je bila pot dolga in v slabem voznem stanju.23 Zgodilo se je, da je krmo navkljub previdnosti uničilo deževje, tako je seno plavalo na vodi in kmetje so ostali brez jezerske letine.
Česen, ki prevladuje v jezerskem rastju obeh jezer, daje kravjemu mleku specifičen vonj in okus, zato jezersko krmo (gre za kislo travo) raje uporabljajo za konje. Posebnost obeh jezer je tudi znos,24 katerega so nekoč pograbili in uporabili za steljo.
V Petelinjah in Palčjah so v prvi polovici šestdesetih kosili s konjsko kosilnico, od konca šestdesetih let dalje kosijo z motorno kosilnico. Od sedemdesetih let naprej so v uporabi obračalniki. Spravilo z nakladalko se opravlja od začetka osemdesetih. Danes seno večinoma balirajo.
Palško jezero se še vedno skoraj v celoti pokosi. S strojno košnjo ni mogoče temeljito pokositi okoli grmičevja, tudi zato se jezero vedno bolj zarašča. Zaraščajo se pobočja kotanj in robni deli dna ter večina dna na jugovzhodnem delu, tako imenovana Velika jezera, kjer se jezero vedno bolj zarašča z vlagoljubno vrbo (Kirn 2001). Prav tako se skoraj vsako leto še vedno v celoti pokosi Petelinjsko jezero. Izvzet je le zahodni del jezerskega dna zaradi peščenih oziroma kamnitih tal (Kirn 2001).
The women brought food from home in wicker baskets carried on their heads. For breakfast at five they prepared buckwheat hominy (polenta), an egg, smoked ham, cracklings, coffee, bread, for brunch or beforelunch (predjužnik) at around nine, cabbage, polenta, meat, potatoes in sauerkraut water, a sausage, cracklings, eggs and a cooked pancetta. The dishes were heavily buttered, since the harvesters needed a lot of energy for such hard work. Out of barigalca and kjantarca they drank water,20 bevanda or krhljevka.
People of Petelinje protected food and beverages from the summer heat by covering it with hazel bushes. They even erected shacks, tents out of hay - they bound together hazel branches and other shrubbery into a cone and covered it with hay - to cool down the food and drink. They also cooled themselves off in these shacks when they were in danger of overheating. In Palško jezero they simply put the drink under a swathe of hay.
To the harvesters, not only the herders, in both lakes the insects were a major nuisance, as the harvesters often told their partners: »I will do the harvesting, and you use a branch to protect me from flies.« The stings and burns were tended to with homemade t^eče olje and with the oil of white lilies.
When the dew in both lakes had evaporated, the cut grass was beaten apart (raztepena) with rakes and forks; female rakers also joined in this work. To accelerate the drying of the hay, the 'beaten' swathes were turned around by women and children.21 In Petelinjsko jezero the hay, due to its density, can take as much as three days to dry, and in Palško Jezero it can take four. To protect it from the morning dew, they raked the hay into a zagrabek. If bad weather threatened they stored the hay in heaps (luonca). With well-laden lojtrnik22 pulled by livestock, they took the harvest home where they stored it in a barn (puod). During the way, the hay was likely to shed, as the route was bad and long.23 It has happened that the harvest was destroyed by the
DOPOLNILNE DEJAVNOSTI NA JEZERIH
rain, so that the hay was floating in the water and the farmers had no yield from the lake.
Ledarstvo
Vse od konca 18. stoletja pa tja do sredine 20. stoletja, ko so ledarstvo izpodrinile električne hladilne naprave, so pivški kmetje pridobivali led predvsem za potrebe Trsta. Led so dostavljali v tržaške mesarije, ribarnice in gostilne, ki so imele potrebo po ohranjanju hitro pokvarljivih živil. Po Pivški kotlini so kmetje v zamrznjenih mlakah, lokvah in jezerih lomili kvadre ledu. Led so shranjevali v izoliranih prostorih, imenovanih ledenice. Med kvadre ledu so dali slamo ali listje, da se led ni sprijel, slama je bila istočasno tudi izolator. Led se je v ledenicah obdržal do toplejših spomladanskih mesecev. S konji, vpreženimi v lojtrnike, so ga odpeljali v Trst. Ledeni tovor je do Trsta potoval dva dni, medtem pa je led izgubil do tretjino svoje teže. Ustni viri pričajo, da so Petelinjci led pridobivali s Pomoklic in s Petelinjskega jezera.25 Palčani so led lomili v Palškem jezeru26 in naravni ledenici - jami v Gornji senožeti. V njej se je led sam nabiral preko zime in se je tam obdržal do poznega poletja (Česnik 2002).
Nabiralništvo
Nabiralništvo predstavlja dopolnilno gospodarsko panogo,27 poleg tega zadovoljuje še zdravstvene, prehranjevalne in rekreativne potrebe. V Petelinjah in Palčjah je bilo in še vedno je nabiralništvo povezano predvsem z nabiranjem navadnega ali črnega brinja (Juniperus communis), ki raste tudi nad Petelinjskim jezerom.28 Brinj začnejo nabirati v drugi polovici avgusta, ko so plodovi oziroma jagode zrele, in se lahko nadaljuje vse tja do zime. Jagode nabirajo ob suhem, lepem vremenu v dopoldanskih urah, saj je takrat količina olja v brinovih jagodah najvišja. Pripomočki za nabiranje plodov so: rokavice, kratka lesena palica, jerbas in žakljevinasta vreča. Brin ima zelo bodeče iglice, zato je nabiranje plodov zahtevno opravilo. Pod grm postavijo jerbas,
Garlic, dominating the flora of both lakes, gives cow milk a specific smell and taste, that is why they prefer to use the lake feed (sour grass) for horses. A peculiarity of both lakes is also znos,24 they used to gather it in and use it as litter.
In Petelinje and in Palčje they mowed with a horse mower in the first half of the sixties, and since the end of the sixties they have been harvesting with a motor mower. From the seventies onwards tedders are used. Gathering with a loader has been preferred since the beginning of the eighties. Today the hay is mostly put in hay bales.
Palško jezero is still almost completely harvested. Motorized mowing is unable to completely mow around shrubbery, causing the lake to become more and more overgrown. The slopes of the hollows are becoming overgrown as well as the fringes of the bottom and most of the bottom in the south-eastern part, the so called Velika jezera, where the lake is being overgrown by a moisture loving willow (Kirn 2001). And almost every year Petelinjsko jezero is wholly harvested as well. The western part of the lake bottom is an exception, because of the sandy and stony soil (Kirn 2001).
SUPPLEMENTAL ACTIVITIES ON THE LAKES
Ice Making
All the way from the end of the 18"" century to the middle of the IO"" century, when ice making was replaced by electrical cooling devices, the farmers of Pivka region produced ice mostly for the needs of Trieste. The ice was delivered to Trieste butcher shops, fisheries and restaurants, which had to preserve highly perishable food. All over the Pivka basin farmers broke off blocks of ice in frozen puddles, lokve and
čezenj potegnejo vejo in jo otepajo s palico. Nabrane brinove jagode se v naslednjem postopku vejejo oziroma čistijo. Na rešeto vsujejo manjšo količino teh ter jih z lahkimi vzgibi proti burji pretresajo tako, da ta odpihne vse iglice in ostale smeti, ki so se nabrale. Nato jih očiščene v temnem prostoru široko razprostrejo po tleh (Čehovin 2002). Čez slab mesec posušene jagode zmeljejo v posebnem mlinu. Zmlete jagode odmerijo v polovniku. V lesene čebre in sode ali v plastične posode zlijejo dve tretjini vode, ki ji dodajo eno tretjino zmletih jagod. Ta pripravek se imenjuje drozga. Po približno dvajsetih dneh, ko je fermentacija drozge končana, iz nje skuhajo žganje. Poleg brinjevca, ki ga domačini uživajo in prodajajo predvsem kot zdravilo, pridelujejo še sadjevec in slivovko (Renčelj 2003).29 Pri kuhanju brinjevca nastaja še stranski produkt - brinjevo olje, ki je uporabno v domačem zdravilstvu. Olje je bilo učinkovito proti otroškim glistam. Danes ga še vedno uporabljajo proti sklepnim bolečinam, menstrualnim težavam, revmatskim obolenjem in udarninam. V Petelinjah so ga namenili tudi za zdravljenje živali - ob pojavu parkljevke leta 1941 so olje uporabili za dezinfekcijo parkljev tako, da so z brinjevim oljem namočili predpražnik, čez katerega so živali vstopale v hlev.
S sodobno medicino se je nabiranje naravnih zelišč zmanjšalo. Zdravljenje z naravnimi zelišči v današnjem času predstavlja le dopolnilo k uradni medicini, vendar se navkljub hitremu razvoju medicine vse bolj pojavljajo težnje po povezanosti z naravo in izročilom. Domačinke zdravilna zelišča nabirajo za lastno uporabo. Rastline nabirajo v pletene košare ter v platnene in polivinilske vrečke. Sušijo jih na podstrešju, poleg peči ali v senci pred hišo, razgrnjene na deskah ali kuhinjski krpah. Shranjujejo jih v bombažne ali papirnate vrečke, pa tudi v steklene kozarce. Pri lažjih obolenjih najpogosteje uporabljajo rman, encijan, bezeg, arniko, ozkolistni tropotec, tavžentrožo, glog, kamilice in lipo.
lakes. Ice was kept in the isolated spaces called ledenice. They put straw or leaves between the blocks, to prevent the ice from sticking together, and the straw also acted as an insulator. The ice was retained in icehouses until the warmer spring months. With horse-pulled lojtrnik they transported it into Trieste. The icy cargo took two days to get to Trieste and the ice lost up to a third of its weight. Oral sources say that Petelinje villagers obtained ice from Pomok-lice and from Petelinjsko jezero.25 The people of Palčje obtained the ice from Palško jezero26 and the natural ice storage - the cave in Gornja senožet. Ice was accumulated there by itself over the winter, and was preserved until late summer (Česnik 2002).
Gathering
Gathering is a supplemental economic discipline27 besides also satisfying the medical, nourishment and recreational demands. In Petelinje and Palčje it was and still is mostly connected with gathering regular or black juniper berries (Juniperus communis), which also grow above Petelinjsko jezero.28 The gathering of juniper berries starts in the second half of August, when the berries are ripe and can continue all the way to winter. The berries are gathered in dry sunny weather in the mornings, as the quantity of oil in the berries is the highest then. The instruments for gathering are: gloves, a short wooden stick, a wicker basket and a sackcloth sack. Juniper has very sharp needles - that is why the gathering of the berries is a demanding task. Below a bush a basket is set, a branch pulled over it, and hit by a stick. The gathered berries are then 'branched', that is cleaned. A small quantity of berries is poured onto a sieve, and then shaken gently against the burja (strong wind typical of Kras) so that the wind blows away all the needles and assorted dirt. Then they are spread on the ground in a dark room (Čehovin 2002). After a month the dried berries are ground in a special mill. They are then measured in a polovnik. They fill wooden čeber, barrels or plastic containers with two thirds water and then add one
V obeh jezerih raste ozkolistni tropotec (Plantago lanceolata), nabira se od junija do sredine avgusta, uporabni so posušeni listi, iz katerih se pripravi čaj, ki je primeren za zdravljenje prehladnih obolenj. V jezerih najdemo še rman (Achillea millefolium), ki raste od junija do oktobra. Iz posušenega cvetja se pripravi čaj, ki blaži želodčne težave. Ob obrežjih obeh jezer od junja do avgusta nabirajo materino dušico (Thymus serpyllum), pri kateri je uporabno celotno steblo s cvetom. Pripravek iz čaja pomaga pri kašlju in želodčnih težavah.
Palški otroci so se v jezeru še posebej razveselili kislice, katere steblo in listi so primerni za žvečenje.30 Palčani so na jezeru še prvo desetletje po drugi svetovni vojni nabirali vlagoljubno vrbo. Iz nje so delali butare ali jo uporabljali za izdelavo košar. Za domače potrebe in za prodajo oziroma menjavo v domačem kraju so iz vrbe pletli koške z enim ročem (za krompir), koške z dvema ročajema (za drva) in jerbase.
Po vojni so otroci iz Petelinj in Palčij po jezeru in ob njem zbirali odpadni material31 - ostanke streliva, železo, orodje in kosti. Dobiček, ki so ga izposlovali ob prodaji odpadkov, so namenili za zvezke, sladkarije, igrače in oblačila.
Lov
Jezeri sta bili pomembni lovišči tako za lovce32 kot divje lovce, katerim je lov predstavljal dopolnilno gospodarsko dejavnost. Množičen divji lov je bil prisoten še nekaj let po vojni, ko so bili kmetje državi prisiljeni dajati obvezno oddajo.33 Takrat domačega mesa ni bilo v izobilju, zato so priložnostno popestrili svoj jedilnik z divjačino.
V jezerih lahko naletimo na jelena, srnjaka, rjavega medveda, divjega prašiča, poljskega zajca, lisico, jazbeca, kuno, volka in risa, slednjega le v Palškem jezeru. Jezeri sta bogati tudi z različnimi vrstami ptic.
third of ground berries. This concoction is called drozga (ground fruit). After about twenty days, when the fermentation of drozga is complete, they distil spirits out of it. Alongside brinjevec (brinj means juniper), consumed by locals and sold mostly as a medicine, they also distil fruit brandy and slivovitz (Renčelj 2003).29 While cooking brinjevec, a side product is created - juniper oil, used as a home medicine. It was successfully used to treat tapeworm in children. Today it is still used for joint pains, menstruation problems, rheumatic pains and bruises. In Petelinje it was also used to treat animals. When foot-and-mouth disease broke out in 1941, they used the oil to disinfect the hoofs by saturating the mat the animals stepped on when entering the stable with the oil.
Modern medicine reduced the importance of the tradition of gathering natural herbs. Herbal healing is now only a supplement to the official medicine, but, despite the quick development of medicine, there are growing tendencies towards the connection with nature and tradition. Local women gather herbs for personal use; they are gathered in wicker baskets and in linen and plastic bags. They are dried in the attics, next to the stoves or in the shade in front of the house, spread out on a board or a kitchen cloth. They are stored in cotton or paper bags and also in glass containers. Less serious illnesses are usually treated by common yarrow, gentian, elder, arnica, plantain, centaury, hawthorn, camomile and lime.
Plantain grows in both lakes (Plantago lanceolata), it is gathered from June to the middle of August; its dried leaves are useful for making tea, which is good for treating colds. Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) can also be found in the lakes, it grows from June to October. From its dried blossoms a tea can be made; it alleviates stomach troubles. On the shores of both lakes they gather mother of thyme (Thy-mus serpyllum). Its whole stalk is useful, not only the blossom. The tea helps with coughs and stomach troubles.
VOJSKA IN JEZERA
Jezerci so bili prisiljeni svoji jezeri deliti z različnimi vojskami. Že za časa Avstro-Ogrske sta bili jezeri vojaška poligona, kasneje sta s tovrstno tradicijo nadaljevali italijanska in jugoslovanska vojska. V jezerih so vojaške vaje izvajale pehotne enote. Italijanska vojska je imela strelišče ob Petelinjskem jezeru na Malem vlačnu, s katerega so vojaki streljali v Okroglek. Ob Palškem jezeru so bili italijanski vojaki nameščeni v Gaberjah in Trnjskem borštu.
Ob poteh na jezeri so v času orožnih vaj italijanski vojaki postavili rdečo zastavo in stražo, ki je domačinom prepovedovala dostop do jezer. Na vojaške vaje je v Palčjah opominjala tudi rdeča zastava, izobešena v zvoniku. Poleg tega so v obeh vaseh razobesili opozorilne plakate.
V primeru, da domačini zaradi vojaških vaj niso mogli opravljati dela v jezeru ali ob jezeru, jim je italijanska vojska izplačala dnevnice v višini 15 lir na osebo.34 Dodatno je vojska izplačevala odškodnino, ki jo je povzročala na obdelovalnih površinah in pridelkih.
Po drugi svetovni vojni je že obstoječe strateške položaje ob jezerih zavzela jugoslovanska vojska. Vaščanom v opozorilo je v času vojaških vaj namestila straže ob poteh v jezeri. Odškodnino za povzročeno škodo ob izpadu letnega pridelka sena v obeh jezerih je kmetom po drugi svetovni vojni občasno izplačevala tudi Jugoslovanska ljudska armada.35
Children of Palčje were especially happy to find sorrel in the lake, as its stalk and leaves can be chewed.30 People of Palčje also gathered the moisture-loving willow in the first decade after the Second World War. They made butara out of them or used them to make wicker baskets. For personal use or for selling or bartering in their towns they wove košek with one handle (for potatoes), košek with two handles (for wood) and wicker baskets.
After the War the children from Petelinje and Palčje gathered refuse in and around the lake31 remnants of ammunition - iron, tools and bones. Their profits were used to buy notebooks, candy, toys and clothes.
Hunting
The lakes were important hunting grounds for hunters32 and poachers alike; to them hunting was a supplemental economic activity. Mass poaching was present for a few years after the war, when farmers were forced to deliver goods for purchase by the state.33
There was not enough meat at home so they enriched their daily meals with venison if they could. In the lakes one might find stags, roebucks, brown bears, boars, rabbits, foxes, badgers, martens, wolves and lynxes (only in Palško jezero). The lakes are rich with various kinds of birds.
THE ARMY AND THE LAKES
Danes pričajo o prisotnosti vojske na področju obehjezer ostanki streliva, jarki in sledi nekdanjih tankovskih poti. Ob Palškem jezeru samevajo in razpadajo nekdanji vojaški objekti. V Petelinjskem jezeru lahko opazimo luknje, ki so posledica granat. Tudi Palško jezero je bilo prerešetano z luknjami, ki so jih povzročile predvsem granate jugoslovanske vojske, nato pa so dno sanirali. Vojska na področju jezer ni več prisotna vse od leta 1991.
The lake people were forced to share their lakes with various armies. Already in the Aus-tro-Hungarian times the lakes were military training grounds, and later the Italian and the Yugoslav armies followed the tradition. Military exercises in the lakes were carried out by infantry. The Italian Army had a shooting range next to Petelinjsko jezero, on Malo Vlačno, from which the soldiers shot at Okroglek. Next to Palško jezero the Italian soldiers lived in
IGRE IN PROSTI ČAS NA JEZERIH
Gaberje and Trnjski boršt.
V spomladanskem času, ko lubje listavcev (leske, lipe, češnje) še ni bilo presuho, so pastirji iz Petelinj in Palčij na paši izdelovali košarice za jagode, maline in robide tako, da so zvili lubje v spiralo in ga na koncu speli s trnom. Lahko pa so lubje le prepognili in ga na obeh konceh speli s trnom. Izdelovali so še piščali, rogove in piske iz slame. Piščal so izdelali iz ravne palice, ki je bila dolga okoli 30 cm in debela od 1,5 cm do 2 cm. Na zgornjem delu palice so lubje odstranili, da so ga nato s potegom lažje ločili od palice (usočili), še prej so naredili plitvo zarezo v obliki polkroga, globoko le toliko, da so prerezali lubje. Ko so uspeli lubje ločiti od veje, so v zgornji del piščali namestili lesen polzamašek, ki je segal do začetka zgornje luknjice. Spodnji del piščali so zaprli s preostankom lesene paličice, s pomočjo katere so spreminjali ton glasbila. Rog so naredili iz muževnega lubja, ki so ga zvili v konično cev sprdo (trobento) na ožjem koncu. Za pisko iz slame so uprabili približno dvajset centimetrov dolgo slamo. Na eni strani slamice so naredili podolgovato zarezo, konec slame so zaprli, zgornjo odprtino pa pustili odprto, da so vanjo lahko pihali.
Otrokom so bile na paši v veselje razne igre, najraje so tolkli kozo. Igrišče za kozo so postavili na ravni površini. Bilo je pravokotne oblike, veliko približno 7 m krat 9 m, obdajalo ga je okoli deset kamnov. V zadnjem delu igrišča je bila postavljena trinoga rogovila (koza), ki so jo igralci s palicami (balduni) zbijali. Ob robu igrišča je stal igralec, imenovan pastir, z žogo iz cunj ali vrbja (omelo) v roki. Ko je igralec, ki je stal na začetku igrišča, zbil kozo, je moral teči po svojo palico h kozi. Prav tako so morali svoje palice pobrati igralci, ki so kozo neuspešno zbijali pred njim. Med tem početjem je pastir postavil kozo nazaj na označeno mesto in za tem z omelo zbijal igralce, ki so bili v gibanju. V primeru, ko je bil igralec na katerem izmed kamnov, pastir ni smel ciljati vanj. Če je čuvaj zadel igralca, ki ni prišel do kamna, je ta moral prevzeti vlogo čuvaja koze. Po tej logiki se je igra odvijala naprej. Druga priljubljena igra je
During military exercises the Italian soldiers raised with a red flags and posted guards along the paths to the lake, preventing the locals from reaching them. The military exercises were also noted with a red flag on the bell tower. They also posted warning posters in both villages.
If villagers could not perform their work because of the exercises they received compensation from the Italian army, daily wages - 15 liras per person.34 Additionally, the Army repaid the damages caused on cultivable lands and crops.
After the Second World War the existing strategic positions by the lakes were taken over by the Yugoslav Army. As a warning for villagers during the exercises, sentries were posted alongside the paths to the lakes. The compensation for the reductions of yearly hay harvests in both lakes was sometimes given to the farmers by the JLA (Yugoslav People's Army)35 as well.
The remnants of ammunition, ditches, traces of old tank tracks all testify about the presence of an army in this area. By the Palško jezero the former military buildings crumble apart deserted. In Petelinjsko jezero holes can be seen, caused by grenades. Palško jezero was also riddled with holes, caused mostly by the grenades of the Yugoslav Army, but then the bottom was sanitized. The army has not been present here since 1991.
GAMES AND FREE TIME ON THE LAKES
During the pasturing in the spring, when the bark of the deciduous trees was yet not too dry, the herders from Petelinje and Palčje crafted strawberry, raspberry and blackberry baskets by folding the bark in a spiral and binding it together with a thorn. Or they could just fold the bark and bind it together with a thorn at both ends. They also made whistles, horns and piska
bila klinčkanje. Za klinčkanje so izpulili travo in naredili njivico (neke vrste pravokotno tarčo 50 cm krat 50 cm). Igralec, ki je največkrat zapičil žepni nož navpično v sam kot te pravokotne tarče, je zmagal.
Navkljub občasnim vojaškim vajam na tem področju sta jezeri domačinom od nekdaj predstavljali kraj počitka in miru, kjer so lahko na najrazličnejše načine preživljali prosti čas.
Palčani in Petelinjci so doma izdelovali drsalke, imenovane žliči. Na spodnjo stran lesene deščice v velikosti čevlja so pritrdili dve močnejši žici (šini). Žici sta bili na koncu in začetku ukrivljeni, da sta lahko služili za odrivanje in zaviranje. Na vrhnjo stran deščice so namestili usnjene trakove, v katere so vtaknili čevelj. V pomoč pri drsanju jim je bila še dolga lesena palica, ki je imela na koncu pritrjen ošiljen žebelj, s katero so se odrivali, ustavljali in lovili ravnotežje. Drsalci, ki so se z žliči drsali na Pomoklicah ali na Jezeru, so bili po večini mladi fantje.
Tudi mladi Palčani so se drsali na jezeru, nemalokrat pa tudi v vaški lokvi, uporabljali so iste drsalke kot Petelinjci, le da so jih poimenovali cokle.36 Tovrstne drsalke naj bi uporabljali še v začetku osemdesetih let.
Palčani so se po razgibani gladini Palškega jezera tudi sankali; v ta namen so uporabili kos ledu, imenovan škol, s katerim so se z višje ležečih delov jezera spuščali v njegove nižje ležeče dele. Na vzhodnem delu se v jezero izliva potok, imenovan Kužica, na katerem so otroci izdelovali mlinčke.
V prvi polovici dvajsetega stoletja so v jezerih plavali le redki posamezniki, največkrat se je mladina le osvežila v jezerski vodi. V zadnjih desetletjih sta obe jezeri priljubljeni kopališči domačinov, vendar sta le redko napolnjeni v toplejših mesecih, ko temperatura vode dopušča telesne aktivnosti.
iz slame. Whistles were made out of a straight stick, which was around 30 cm long and about 1.5 cm - 2 cm thick. They removed the bark from the upper part of the stick; so that they could remove it more easily by yanking it away; before that they made a shallow cut shaped as a semicircle, only deep enough to cut through the bark. After successfully removing the bark, they inserted a wooden half-cork into the upper part of the whistle. It reached the start of the upper hole. The lower part of a whistle was closed with rests of the wooden stick, which served to change the instrument's tone. Horns were made out of juicy bark, twisting it into a conical tube with a fart (trobenta), that is, the mouthpiece, at the narrower end. For a piska iz slame they used around a twenty centimetres long straw. On one side of the straw they cut in a long cut, the end was closed and the upper opening left open in order to blow into it.
The children spiced herding up with various games, the most popular being beating the goat (tolči kozo) . The playing field for it was set up on level ground. It was rectangular, around 7 metres by 9 metres big and surrounded by around ten rocks. At the back part of the field, a three legged forked branch was placed (the goat) and the players tried to knock it down by throwing sticks (baldun) at it. At the edge of the field the player called herder stood, with a ball out of cloth or willow shrubbery in hand. When a player, standing at the start of the field knocked the koza down, he had to run to get his stick to the koza, along with all the other players who unsuccessfully tried to knock down the goat before him. While they were doing this, they herder put the goat back to the marked spot, and then used the ball to knock down moving players. When a player was standing on a rock, the herder was not allowed to target him. If the herder hit a player who did not reach a rock, the hit player had to take over the herder's role. And so the game went on. Another popular game was klinčkanje. To play it, they uprooted grass and made a small field (a sort of rectangular target, 50 cm by 50 cm). The player who managed to stick a pocket knife into the very corner of the
Spomin na prvo čolnarjenje po Petelinjskem jezeru sega v leto 1930. Domačin Miha Vodopivec, mizar, je izdelal čoln za štiri osebe z vesli. Na zunanji strani ga je zalil s smolo in pobarval. Mladi fantje so se z njim kakšno leto navdušeno vozili po jezeru.37 Palčani so za čoln uporabili kar trugo za klanje prašiča; s takim čolnom so se prevažali trije ali štirje fantje, ki so za vesla uporabljali navadne deske. Po drugi svetovni vojni so se pripadniki JLA po obeh jezerih vozili z motornimi čolni. Tudi danes lahko na jezerski gladini opazimo posamezna plovna sredstva.
Ob obeh jezerih poteka vsakoletni Petelinjski tek oziroma tek presihajočih jezer. To je ena največjih športno-rekreativnih prireditev na Pivškem, ki na pobudo domačinov poteka že od leta 1984. Vsakoletne prireditve v maju se udeleži od petsto do šesto rekreativnih tekačev, ki so razdeljeni v različne starostne kategorije. Start je v vasi Petelinje, tekaška proga vodi proti Slovenski vasi, mimo obeh jezer - Petelinjskega in Palškega, skozi Palčje, nato obide še vasi Klenik in Trnje ter vodi nazaj v Petelinje. V zadnjih letih v sklopu te prireditve pripravljajo tudi pohod na Sveto Trojico (Lonico). Prireditve, ki jo organizira Športna zveza Pivka s pomočjo Vaškega društva Petelinje,38 se udeleži do 2000 obiskovalcev.
TURIZEM IN JEZERA
V sklopu projekta Postojna - središče svetovnega krasoslovja, se na Občini Pivka izvaja podprojekt Razvojni program dežele Pivških presihajočih jezer.39 Ta predstavlja zbor idej, kako naj bi vsebinsko oblikovali in razvijali turistično ponudbo objezerskih krajev. Sami jezeri in njuna bližnja okolica sta primeren kraj za izvajanje turistično-rekreacijskih dejavnosti.40 Domačini se zavedajo, da razvoj sonaravnega turizma in spremljajočih dejavnosti (ekološko kmetovanje, spodbujanje obrti, podjetniških idej) prinaša nova delovna mesta, večji zaslužek in hitrejši gospodarski razvoj. Navkljub temu na strani domačinov obstaja strah pred množičnim
rectangular target the most times won.
Despite occasional military exercises in the area, the locals always saw the lakes as a place of rest and peace, where they could spend their free time in many ways.
People of Palčje and Petelinje made ice skates at home called žlič. On the bottom side of a wooden plank the size of a shoe, they attached two stronger wires (šina) . The wires were curved at the end and the beginning, so they could be used for shoving away or braking. A long wooden stick, with a sharpened nail attached to one end, also helped them skate; they used it to shove off, to stop and to keep balance. The upper part of the plank was fitted with leather belts with enough room for a shoe. The skaters who used the žlič to skate on Pomoklice or on Jezero were mostly young men.
Young Palčje men also skated on the lake, often on the village lokva, the used the same skates as people from Petelinje, but they called them cokla.^6 Such skates were supposedly used even in the beginning in the eighties.
Palčje villagers also sledged on the uneven surface of the Palško jezero, using a piece of ice called škol, and propelling themselves from the higher-lying areas of the lake to the lower-lying ones. In the eastern part the stream named Kužica flows into the lake; on it the children crafted little mills.
In the first half of the 20th century only a few individuals used the lake for swimming, the young people mostly just refreshed themselves in the lake water. In the last few decades both lakes have become popular bathing spots, but they are only rarely filled in the warmer months, when water temperatures allow physical activity.
The memories of the first boat trip on Pe-telinjsko jezero go back to 1930. A local man, Miha Vodopivec, who was a carpenter, created a rowboat for 4 people. He covered the outer
turizmom in posledicami, ki mu pritičejo.
OPOMBE
1	Palčani imenjujejo celotni pas okoli jezera kamničje/kamnišče, sestavljata ga kamenje in bivanca.
2	V Palškem jezeru se je zgodila ena utopitev v obdobju med obema vojnama. V Pe-telinjskem jezeru pa sta bili po drugi svetovni vojni zabeleženi dve utopitvi.
3	Skozi vas Petelinje je ob velikem deževju pritekel približno do pol metra visok hudournik, imenovan Potok. Pridrvel je iz Osojnice in Loze. Ob večjih nalivih so postavili brvi med hišami. V vasi je bilo pet brvi, in sicer Skokova, Dučeva, Tankarjeva, Orehovceva in Andrejetova (slednja je bila pravzaprav manjši mostiček). Ponekod so bili za preskakovanje vodne ovire postavljeni le kamni. Po letu 1970 so Potok ujeli v betonski jašek, ki se nahaja pod cesto.
4	V arhitektonskem pogledu ju uvrščamo v primorski tip vodnjaka.
5	Petelinjke so v času suše prale perilo v Replah ob izviru. Na glavah so nosile svitek, nanj so položile perilnik, vrh njega pa še škaf. Ob močnem deževju so prale tudi na polju, v večjih lužah. Palčanke so prale ob vaški štirni. Za pranje so uporabljale perilnik in wurnco. Milo so pripravile iz loja (govejega, prašičjega), dodale so mu sodo kavstiko, ki so jo kupile v lekarni. Zvarek so odlile v predalnike miz, kjer se je milo strdilo, nato pa so ga narezale na manjše kose. Poleg mila so za pranje uporabljale še lug, za katerega so uporabile pepel iz hrastovega ali bukovega lesa.
6	»Osnovni« voz je imel dve legi (tramova) vzdolžno ob ročicah in desko vmes po sredini. To je bila najenostavnejša oblika kmečkega voza. Na njem so vozili kamne, vreče, sode, zaboje ipd. Legnar je bil tudi osnova, na katero so položili koslado (Samsa 2005).
7	Po vojni ajde niso več pridelovali.
8	Po letu 1970 je naraslo pridelovanje koruze za silažo.
9	Po več kot sto ovac so imeli v Petelinjah do konca dvajsetih let le pri dveh hišah v vasi, pri
side with resin and painted it. The young men used it for about a year for enthusiastic joyrides across the lake.37 People of Palčje used a pig slaughter tub as a boat; it was used by three or four young men who used planks as oars. After the Second World War the members of the JLA ferried across both lakes with motorboats. And even today we can spot individual floating devices on both lakes.
Along both lakes the yearly Petelinje Run is held. The Petelinjsko Run, or the Run of the intermittent karstic lakes, is one of the biggest recreative sports events in Pivka region. It has been organized under the initiative of the locals ever since 1984. The yearly event in May is attended by around five to six hundred runners, divided into various age groups. The start is in the village Petelinje, the course runs through Slovenska vas, past both of the lakes - Petelin-jsko jezero and Palško jezero, through Palčje, then it passes by the villages Klenik and Trnje and leads back to Petelinje. In the last few years they also started organizing a hike to Sveta Trojica (Lonica) alongside this event. The event, organized by the Sports Association Pivka, with the help of the Village Society Petelinje,38 is attended by up to 2 000 visitors.
TOURISM AND THE LAKES
Under the wing of the project Postojna - the Centre of World Karstology, the Pivka Municipality is carrying out a subproject - the Development Programme of the land of the Pivka intermittent lakes,39 which represents a collection of ideas how to design and improve the tourist services of the places by the lakes. The lakes themselves and their surroundings are suitable spots for carrying out tourist and recreative activities.40 The locals are aware that the development of the sustainable tourism and its accompanying activities (ecological agriculture, stimulation of crafts, business ideas) brings new work places, bigger incomes and faster economic development. Despite all this, the locals are still wary of mass tourism and the
Dučevih in Pavlihovih. V Palčjah so posedovali večje črede ovac še nekaj let po drugi svetovni vojni Mihlinovi in Benčanovi, Birtovi so s pašo prenehali sredi šestdesetih let. Ovce pivških pastirjev so se pasle povečini skozi vse leto. Šlo je za tako imenovano transhumantno pašo. V poletnih mesecih in del jeseni so pasli na pašnikih v bližini vasi, v drugem delu jeseni pa se je začelo postopno preseljevanje proti pašnikom ob istrski obali ali ob Tržaškem zalivu, kjer so jih pasli vso zimo in pomlad (Smerdel 1989).
10	V Palčjah je ena izmed tihotapskih poti iz smeri Boršta vodila mimo jezera proti vasi Palčje in proti Trnju.
11	Ob Rapalski meji je tihotapstvo trajalo vse do kapitulacije Italije leta 1943. Iz Italije so tihotapili le riž in tehnične stvari. Ženske so tihotapile manjše »tovore«: moko, kavo, tobak, alkohol, sol, saharin, čevlje. Ob meji sta bili postavljeni dve vrsti straže Guardia di finanza in Guardia di confine. Davčna policija je bila bolj podkupljiva in je domačinom pri tihotapstvu nemalokrat pomagala. Kontrabant ni bil povsem netvegana dejavnost, saj so bile kazni v primerih tihotapstva večjega tovora zelo visoke.
12	Šempeter na Krasu je bil po osvoboditvi preimenovan v Pivko.
13	Leta 1994 je na podlagi Zakona o gozdovih prišlo do ločitve javnih od poslovnih dejavnosti v gozdarstvu. Tako je iz dela tedanjega Gozdnega gospodarstva Postojna nastal Zavod za gozdove Slovenije - Območna enota Postojna, ki zagotavlja javni interes gospodarjenja z gozdovi, preostali del nekdanje družbe pa se je preoblikoval v gospodarsko družbo, imenovano Gozdno gospodarstvo Postojna (Gozdno... 2005 ).
14	Leta 1951 je nastalo podjetje Javor; združili so se tovarna vezanih in mizarskih plošč z žago v Pivki, furnirnica in zabojarna v Ilirski Bistrici ter furnirnica na Prestranku (Fikfak 1981).
15	V Palškem jezeru so živino pasli do sredine šestdesetih let dvajsetega stoletja.
16	Pred osvoboditvijo se je Slovenska vas imenovala Nemška vas.
consequences it brings.
NOTES
1	Palčje villagers call the whole belt around the lake rocks (kamničje/kamnišče), consisting of rocks and bivanca.
2	Between the two Wars one person drowned in Palško jezero. In Petelinje jezero two persons have drowned since the Second World War.
3	A storm stream called Potok (Stream), which could be up to half a metre deep, gushed through the village Petelinje during strong rains. It rushed from Osojnica and Loze. There were footbridges erected from house to house during bigger downpours. There were five of them in the village: the Skok, Duče, Tankar, Orehovec and the Andrejetova footbridges (the last one was actually a small bridge). In some places rocks were used to jump over the water. After 1970 Potok was trapped in a concrete pipe located under the road.
4	Architectonically speaking they are classified as a littoral type of well.
5	Women of Petelinje washed their laundry in Reple by the spring in times of drought. They wore a coil of clothing on their heads; they put a washboard on it and added a škaf on top. During heavy rains they also did their washing in the fields in bigger puddles. The women of Palčje did their washing by the willage štirna. They used a washingboard and a wurnca. The soap was made out of tallow (cattle, pig), by adding caustic soda, bought in the pharmacy. The concoction was then poured into table drawers, where the soap hardened, and then they cut it up into smaller pieces. Alongside soap they also used lye, which was made out of the ashes of oak or beech wood.
6	The »basic« wagon had two planks alongside the handles and a board in the middle. That was the simplest form of a farmer wagon. They used it to transport rocks, sacks, barrels, crates, etc. Legnar was also the foundation for a koslada (Samsa 2005).
7	They stopped producing buckwheat after the war.
17	Petelinjci in Palčani poznajo ometavanje, ta izraz uporabljajo za medsebojno izmenjavo parcel; pomeni, da je bila določena parcela v lasti dveh ali večih lastnikov, ki sta/so jo uporabljali oziroma kosili izmenično vsak eno leto. V nekaterih primerih je šlo za parcele, ki so se razlikovale po kakovosti, zato je vsakoletna izmenjava predstavljala nekakšno obliko pravičnosti.
18	Cerkev, ki je v Petelinjskem jezeru lastnik Jeglenka, je pred drugo svetovno vojno in verjetno že prej, dajala svojo posest na vsakoletni listant. Licitacijo je vodil župnik, najboljši ponudnik je dobil parcelo v enoletni najem. Ravno tako je imela cerkev svoj del v Palškem jezeru, tudi ta del - Filajevo jezero, so dajali vsako leto na dražbo.
19	Kosa je bila z železnim obročem (birno) pritrjena na javorjevo kosišče (kusje), ki ima na sredini kljuko, na koncu pa ročaj. Koso so pred košnjo poklepali s kladivom za klepanje (klepačo), naslonjenim na jekleno, ploščato nakovalo (babco), ki je bilo vsajeno v zemljo, na drugem koncu pa so koso podprli z rogovilo in klepali sede.
20	Ob košnji na Petelinjskem jezeru so ženske in otroci koscem prinesli vodo iz štirne v Slovenski vasi, v Palčjah pa kar od doma.
21	Medtem ko so starejši obračali seno, so mlajši otroci iz Petelinj tekmovali, kdo bo prvi pretekel jezero od Delcev do Jeglenka.
22	Lojtrni voz je bil dolg približno 6-7 metrov, lojtrnice pa so bile na prvo in zadnjo premo pritrjene z dolgima vijakoma na soro. Slonele so na špangeljnih, in sicer tako, da so bili zunanji lojtrniki rahlo dvignjeni pod kotom glede na vodoravnico. V času spravila sena in otave je bil lojtrni voz nepogrešljiv na cestah. Takrat so proti razsipanju uporabljali žrd - to je približno 8 metrov dolg jelov, gladko obdelan vrh, ki so ga položili na sredo tovora in ga na prednji in zadnji strani povezali z vozom (Žele 1996).
23	Poljske poti Palčani še danes urejajo sami z r 'buto, kjer so praviloma udeleženi vsi lastniki zemljišč. Delo opravijo zgodaj spomladi ali pozno jeseni. Nad severozahodnim delom jezera so domačini do konca osemdesetih let kopali
8	After the 1970 the production of maize for silaging increased.
9	Only two houses had had more than a hundred sheep in Petelinje before the end of the 1920s, the Duče and the Pavliha houses. In Palčje the Mihlin and the Benčan families possessed larger herds of sheep for a few years after the Second World War. The Birt family stopped herding in the middle of the sixties. The sheep of the Pivka region sheepherders were mostly grazing during the whole year, it was a case of the so-called transhumant grazing, during the summer and a part of autumn they were grazing in the fields close to their village, in the second part of autumn the gradual migration towards the pastures by the Istrian coast or by the Trieste Gulf began. There they grazed through the whole winter and spring (Smerdel 1989).
10	In Palčje one of the smuggling routes from Boršt led past the lake to the village Palčje and towards Trnje.
11	By the Rapallo border, the smuggling was very much alive until the capitulation of Italy in 1943. They only smuggled rice and technical gadgets from Italy. Women smuggled smaller »cargoes«: flour, coffee, tobacco, alcohol, salt, saccharin, shoes. There were two types of guards posted at the border Guardia di finanza and Guardia di confine. The Financial Police was more easily bribed and often helped the locals with smuggling. Smuggling was not without risks, as punishments for smuggling larger cargoes were very severe.
12	Šempeter na Krasu was renamed Pivka after the liberation.
13	In 1994, based on the Forest Act, there was a separation between public and business forestry activities. The former Gozdno gospodarstvo Postojna was split into Zavod za gozdove Slovenije - Območna enota Postojna (Forestry Institute of Slovenia - The Postojna Division), and the remaining part of the company was reformed in a business company called Gozdno gospodarstvo Postojna (Gozdno... 2005).
14	In 1951 the company Javor was formed, by merging the factory of plywood and joiner plywood with a sawmill in pivka, with a veneer and crate factory in Ilirska Bistrica and with a
jezerski prod in ga uporabljali pri popravilu poljskih poti. V Petelinjah je imela vsaka hišna številka določen predel, ki ga je morala urejati. Za urejenost poljskih poti v Petelinjah od srede osemdesetih let skrbi Krajevna skupnost Pivka (danes Občina Pivka).
31	Nad zahodnim delom Petelinjskega jezera sta bili še v drugi polovici dvajsetega stoletja vrtači, v kateri so domačini in okoličani odlagali odpadke (živino, gradbeni material, gospodinjske aparate ipd.). Danes sta obe vrtači prekriti z zemljo; zgornjo so zasuli v zadnjem desetletju, spodnja pa je poraščena z bori.
32	Petelinjsko in Palško jezero sta lovišči, ki spadata pod Lovsko družino Pivka. Lovsko društvo Pivka je bilo ustanovljeno 1898. Leta 1925 je bilo v društvu 25 aktivnih članov in število je nenehno naraščalo. Lovišče so leta 1929 prevzeli lovci italijanske narodnosti. Kmalu po drugi svetovni vojni je bila kot naslednica lovskega društva ustanovljena Lovska družina Pivka (Cantarutti 1998).
33	Država je leta 1945 za vse kmete uvedla obvezne oddaje za poljske pridelke, živino in les. Te so trajale do konca leta 1951.
34	Da bi dobili izplačane dnevnice, so domačini večkrat namenoma odšli v jezero, četudi niso nameravali opravljati dela.
35	Cenitveno poročilo za leti 1989 in 1990, ki ga je pripravil sodni izvedenec in cenilec za kmetijstvo, navaja naslednje ugotovitve: »Predmet cenitve so zemljišča v katastrski občini Palčja vas. V času izvajanja vojaških vaj so bila gotova zemljišča oškodovana, opaziti je luknje od granat, poškodbe od tankov in napravljene so bile nove poti. Na nekaterih krajih je opaziti še ostanke granat. Zemljišče je slabe kvalitete, travniki 7.b. razreda, kraška podlaga. Večina zemljišč leži v ravnini, nekaj pa v strmem pobočju in so tudi kamnita. V času daljšega deževja so zemljišča pod vodo, kar se vidi že iz krajevnih imen: Mala jezera, Velika jezera. Zemljišče se uporablja kot travnik, nekaj zemljišč pa je bolj primernih za pašnike. Nekaj površin je zaraščenih, grmovje, primerna ročna košnja. Za oškodovane površine se izračuna izpad letnega dohodka, izpad pridelka sena« (Mihajlovic 1990).
veneer factory in Prestranek (Fikfak 1981).
15	In Palško jezero cattle was herded until the middle of the sixties of the IO*" century.
16	Before the liberation Slovenska vas (Slovenian Village) was called Nemška vas (German Village).
17	People of Petelinje and Palčje are familiar with ometavanje, they use the term for mutual switching of plots, meaning that a certain plot was in the hands of two or more owners which used (harvested) it in turns, one year each. In some cases these were plots that were not of equal quality, so the yearly exchange represented a type of equity.
18	The Church, which owns Jeglenk in Petelinjsko jezero, put their property on the yearly listant before the Second World War, and probably even earlier. The auction was led by the parish priest and the highest bidder received the plot for a one year lease. The Church also had a piece of land In Palško jezero and the plot - Filajevo jezero was also auctioned off every year.
19	The scythe was attached to the maple shaft (kusje) , which had a hook in the middle and a handle in the end, with an iron ring (bir-na) . The scythe was sharpened by a sharpening hammer (klepača) , leaning against a steel flat sharpening-anvil (babca), which was rooted into the ground; on the other side they propped the scythe with a forked branch and then hammered sitting down.
20	During the harvest in Petelinjsko jezero, the women and children brought water for the harvesters from the well in Slovenska vas, and in Palčje they brought it from home.
21	While turning hay, the younger children from Petelinje had competitions to see who would be to first to run across the lake, from Delci to Jeglenk.
22	A lojtrnik was about 6 to 7 metres long. Spars were attached to the front and the back axle with long screws. They leant against the špangeljni, so that the outer spars were a bit raised, not parallel with the horizontal. During the gathering of hay and the second harvest the lojtrnik was essential for transport. They used žrd to prevent the hay from falling out, a žrd
36	Trnjani takim drsalkam pravijo sliči.
37	Povedala Ana Penko iz Selc.
38	Petelinjsko vaško društvo ob tej priložnosti pripravi pasulj in pecivo za vse udeležence ter poskrbi za izgled vasi.
39	Razvojni program se pripravlja za območje občine Pivka, natančneje za Zgornjo Pivko, ki obsega vasi Jurišče, Palčje, Klenik, Trnje, Parje, Drskovče, Zagorje, Šilentabor, Selce, Gradec, Slovensko vas ter Pivko s Petelinjami.
40	Jezeri sta čudovit kraj za opazovanje živali (fotolov, opazovanje ptic), učne poti, za kopanje in kampiranje v spomladanskih in poletnih mesecih in za drsanje v zimskem času. Ob jezerih naj bi označili in uredili že obstoječe gozdne in poljske poti v kolesarske, konjeniške in sprehajalne poti.
SLOVAR
barigalca - bariglica: lesen ročni sodček (SSKJ) bevanda - z vodo mešano vino (SSKJ) bivanca - redka, visoka trava
čednik - črednik: pastir, ki pase vaško govejo čred (SSKJ)
Guardia di finanza - Finančna policija
Guardia di confine - Obmejna straža
kjantarca - do polovice opletena steklenica
korc - korec: posoda z dolgim ročajem za zajemanje
tekočine (SSKJ)
košek - košara
krhljevka - kuhana voda s krhlji kamper - pocinkano vedro kistant - licitacija
kokva - kal: plitvejša kotanja s stoječo vodo (SSKJ) piska iz slame - piščal iz slame poganič - poganjač: kdor pomaga čredniku (SSKJ) polovnik - lesena posoda s prostornino približno tridesetih litrov
raztepli - razrahljali, obrnili seno
r 'buta - robuta: obvezn, neplačano delo, zlasti pri
popravljanju cest, poti (SSKJ)
rdeče olje - šentjanževo olje
skušnik - dve odkošeni redi vrženi na sredini skupaj
špangelj - pri vozu lojtrniku nosilec za lojtrnice
štirna - vodnjak
tolkli šuto - tolkli kamenje (delo na cesti) vruče ku v jezeri - vroče kot v jezeru wurnca - nizka, lesena banjica za pranje perila žajgla - bič: palica s pritrjenim jermenom ali vrvjo za
is an approximately 8 metre long, smooth fir tree top, placed on the middle of the cargo and bound to the wagon in the front and back (Žele 1996).
23	Country roads are still maintained by people of Palčje themselves, as r 'buta, and usually involving all land owners. The work is done in early spring or in late autumn. Above the northwestern part of the lake, the locals used to excavate lake gravel until the end of the eighties and used it to repair country roads. In Petelinje each house number had a particular area which they had to maintain. The maintenance of the country roads has been in the hands of the Local Community Pivka (now the Municipality of Pivka) since the middle of the eighties.
24	Znos is grassy filth, which washes ashore on lake shores.
25	In the thirties of the 20'h century the people of Petelinje also took the ice to the train station in Pivka, to the restaurant Habjan, which bought ice from the locals for its own use. The ice was also supposedly taken to Prestranek to the restaurant Pri Milavki in the second half of the fifties.
26	The Mihlin from Palčje gathered ice from Palško jezero for the needs of their restaurant and stored it in their ice stores.
27	From the sixties to the nineties the people of Petelinje and Palčje gathered cones to sell. The company Semesadike (Seedsapling) from Mengeš bought cones of red pines (for seeds), Austrian pines (for flower arrangements) and fir trees (for flower arrangements). They gathered the cones in the winter, carrying cloth bags over their shoulders, emptying them into bigger jute bags.
28	People of Palčje gathere juniper in Jeruse, in the Palčje and Parje commons. And years ago even on Okroglek above Petelinjsko jezero.
29	The Section of spirits distillers at the Tourist Board Pivka and The Farming Advice Service Pivka have been organizing an event Selection for the Best Spirits in Pivka region since 1999. The organoleptic qualities of homemade fruit brandy, slivovitz and brinjevec are judged. The best spirits earn the title Krpan (A figure from a Slovenian tale, famous for his strength).
udarjanje (SSKJ)
PRIPOVEDOVALCI - INFORMATORS
Pavla Berne (Slovenska vas), Jože Brgoč (Žeje), Vera Brgoč (Žeje), Katja Čehovin (Postojna), Antonija Česnik (Palčje), Bojan Česnik (Palčje), Francka Česnik (Palčje), Julijan Česnik (Palčje), Marija Česnik (Palčje), Franc Dekleva (Petelinje), Mira Dolenc (Petelinje), Marko Doles (Petelinje), Ivan Fon (Postojna), Ludvik Košmrl (Postojna), Marija Marušič (Slovenska vas), Janez Mulec (Postojna), Ana Penko (Petelinje), Ana Penko (Selce), Marko Penko (Palčje), Nadja Penko (Palčje), Anton Požar (Petelinje), Janez Šuštaršič (Trnje), Eneja Vidojevič (Palčje), Vili Vizintin (Petelinje), Marija Vodopivec (Petelinje), Ema Zadel (Petelinje).
The event is important for improving the quality of spirits and their promotion.
30	Sweet roots were popular among children, but they did not grow in the lakes.
31	Above the western part of Petelinjsko jezero, there were two sinkholes even in the second half of the 20th century. The locals used them for waste disposal (livestock, building materials, home apliances, etc). They have both been filled in, the upper in the previous decade and the lower is overgrown with pines.
32	Petelinjsko and Palško jezero are hunting grounds, which belong to the Hunting Family Pivka. Hunting Society Pivka was established in 1898. In 1925 it had 25 active members and it was constantly growing. The hunting grounds were taken over by Italian hunters in 1929. Soon after the Second World War, as successor to the hunting society, the Hunting Family Pivka was established (Cantarutti 1998).
33	The state introduced mandatory deliveries of field produce, livestock and wood in 1945. They were in effect until the end of 1951.
34	To get the daily wages the locals often wandered to the lake on purpose even though they had no real work to do.
35	The appraising report for 1989 and 1990, prepared by a judicial expert and appraiser for agriculture lists the following findings: »The objects of the appraisal are the lands in the cadastral municipality of Palčja vas. During the execution of military exercises, certain lands have been damaged, holes from grenades and tank damage can be seen, and new paths have been created. On some lands grenade fragments can be seen. The land is of bad quality; the pastures are of class 7.b, with a karstic foundation. During longer periods of rain, the lands are flooded, which can be seen from the local names: Mala jezera, Velika Jezera. The land is used as a meadow. Some of them are more suitable to be pastures. Some areas are overgrown by shrubbery, requiring hand harvesting. For the damaged areas the loss oyf yearly income is calculated, and the loss of the hay harvest« (Mihajlovic 1990).
36	People of Trnje call such ice skates sliči.
37	Told by Ana Penko from Selce.
GLOSSARY
barigalca - bariglica: a wooden hand barrel (SSKJ) bevanda - watered down wine (SSKJ) bivanca - sparse high grass
butara - several shortly cut and bound branches for heating (SSKJ)
čeber - a bigger wooden container with two handles (SSKJ)
čednik - črednik: a herder herding the village cattle herd (SSKJ)
Guardia di finanza - Financial Police
Guardia di confine - Border Guard
kjantarca - a bottle half covered in wicker
korc - korec: a container with a long handle to hold
water (SSKJ)
košek - a basket
krhljevka - cooked water with fruit segments tamper - a zynced bucket listant - auction
lokva - kal: a shallower hollow with standing water (SSKJ)
lswoitrnik - a hay wagon (with a sparred frame) piska iz slame - a straw whistle poganič - poganjač: the črednik's helper (SSKJ) polovnik - a wooden container holding around 30 litres
raztepli - loosened, turned the hay
r 'buta - robuta: obligatory unpaid work, especially
for road and path maintenance (SSKJ)
rdeče olje - oil of St John's Wort
skušnik - two harvested swathes thrown together
down the middle
škaf - a small low, usually wooden, container with two handles (SSKJ)
špangelj - a spar holder in a lojtrnik wagon štirna - well
tolkli šuto - broke up rocks (roadworks) wurnca - a low wooden tub for washing the laundry zagrabek - cut grass raked into a smaller area (SSKJ) žajgla - whip: a stick with a strap attached to it, or a rope for (SSKJ)
38	For the occasion the Petelinje Village Society prepares pasulj (a dish made of beans, meat and spices) and pastries for all participants and takes care of the appearance of the village.
39	The development program is being prepared for the areas of the Pivka Municipality, more preciesly for Zgornja Pivka (Upper Pivka), which consists of the villages Jurišče, Palčje, Klenik, Trnje, Parje, Drskovče, Zagorje, Šilentabor, Selce, Gradec, Slovenska vas and Pivka with Petelinje.
40	The lakes are marvellous places to observe animals (photohunting, bird watching), for study trails, for swimming and camping in the spring and summer and for ice skating in the winter. They are planning to mark and organize the existing forest and country roads into cycling, riding and walking paths.
Slika 1: Košnja na Palškem jezeru (Foto: arhiv družine Figure 1: Harvesting in the Palško Jezero (Photo: ar-Špilar, Palčje).	chive of family Špilar, Palčje).
Slika 2: Spravilo sena na Palškem jezeru, 1941 (Foto: Figure 2: Traditional harvest of hay on the Palško jez-Anton Špilar).	ero, 1941 (Photo: Anton Špilar).
Slika 3: Spravilo sena na Petelinjskem jezeru (bala sena), 2005 (Foto: M. Erjavec).
Figure 3: Balling hay on the Petelinjsko jezero, 2005 (Photo: M. Erjavec).
Slika 4: Prosti čas na Petelinjskem jezeru, 1962 (Foto: Anton Vodopivec).
Figure 4: Free time on the Petelinjsko jezero, 1962 (Photo: Anton Vodopivec).
Slika 5: Žlič - petelinjska drsalka, 2005 (Foto: M. Figure 5: Žlič (Petelinje ice skate), 2005 (Photo: M.
Peršič, S. Polak & M. Erjavec)	Peršič, S. Polak & M. Erjavec)
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