8 x £ 6- /9P" VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. performed in His Majefty's Ships the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE, In the Years 1772, 1773* 1774, and 1775. written y JAMES COOK, Commander of the Resolution, In which is included, CAPTAIN FURNEAUX's NARRATIVE of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation of the Ships, IN TWO VOLUMES. Iltuihated with MAPS and CHARTS, and a Variety of PORTRAITS of PERSONS and VIEWS of PLACES, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. HODGES, and engraved by the moll eminent Matters. VOL. II. LONDON: Printed for W. STRAHAN i and T. CADELL in the Strand. MDCCLXXVII. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. BOOK III. From Ulietea to New Zealand. CHAP. I. Paffage from Ulietea to the Friendly Ifles; with a defcription of feveral iflands that were difcovered, and the Incidents which happened in that track. Page I CHAP. II. Reception at Anamocka; a robbery and its confequences, with a variety of other incidents. Departurefrom the ifland. A failing canoe de- fcribed. Some obfervations on the navigation of thefe //landers, A defcription of the ifland, and of thofe in the neighbourhood, with fome account of the inhabitants, and nautical remarks. g CHAP. III. The paffage from the Friendly Ifles to the New Hebrides; with an account of the difcovery of Turtle I/land, and a variety of incidents which happened, both before and after the fhip arrived in Port Sandwich in the Ifland of Mallicollo.—A defcription of the port ; the adjacent country ; its inbabitants, and many other particulars. 3^ A 2 CHAP. CHAP. IV. An account of the d'fcovery of feveral iflands, an interview and fkirmiflj with the inhabitants upon one of them. The arrival of the flnp at Tanna, and the reception we met with there. 38 CHAP. V. An intercourfe eflablifljed with the natives; fome account of the ifland, and a variety of incidents that happened during our flay at it. 53 CHAP. VI. Departure from Tanna; with fome account of its inhabitants, their manners and arts. 75 CHAP. VII. The furvey of the iflands continued, and a more particular defcription of them, 85 CHAP. VIIL An account of the d'fcovery of New Caledonia, and the incidents that happened while the flnp lay in Balade. 103 C H A P. IX. A defcription of the country and its inhabitants ; their manners, cufloms, and arts. 118 CHAP. X. Proceedings on the Coafl of New Caledonia, with geographical and nautical obfervations. 12Q CHAP. XL Sequel of the pajfage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an account of the difcovery of Norfolk Ifland; and the incidents that happened while the ffjip lay at §>ucen Charlottes Sound. j^fi 3 BOOK BOOK IV. From leaving New Zealand to our Return to England, CHAP. I. The run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego, with the range from Cape Dcfeada to Chrifmas Sound, and defcription of that part of the coafl. 163 CHAP. IL Tranfaclions in Chrifmas Sound, with an" account of the country and its inhabitants. jyj CHAP. IIL Ratige from Chrifmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through Strait Le Maire, and round Staten Land; with an account of the d'fcovery of a harbour in that if and, and a defcription of the coafs. 188 C H A P. IV. Obfervations, geographical and nautical, with an account of the iflands near Staten Land, and the animals found in them. 198 CHAP. V. Proceedings after leaving Staten Land, with an account of the dif-eovery of the Ifle of Georgia, and a defcription of it. 207 CHAP. VI. Proceedings after leaving the Ifle of Georgia, and an account of the d'fcovery of Sandwich Land; with fome reafons for there being land about the South Pole. 222 CHAP. CHAP. VII. Heads of what has been done in the voyage; with fome conjeclures concerning the formation of iccifands; and an account of our proceedings till our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. 239 CHAP. VIII. Captain Furneaux's narrative of his proceedings, in the Adventure, from the time he was feparatedfrom the Refolution, to his arrival in England; including Lieutenant Burney's report concerning the boafs crew, who were murdered by the inhabitants of §>ueen Charlotte's Sound. CHAP. IX. TranfaBions at the Cape of Good Hope ; with an account of fome dif cov cries made by the French; and the arrival of the flnp at St> Helena. 264. CHAP. X. Pajfage from St. Helena to the Weflern Iflands, with a defcription of the Iflands of Afcenfion and Fernando Noronha. 27 z CHAP. XI. Arrival of the fhip at the Ifland of Fayal, a defcription of the place, and the return of the Refolution to England. 283 Tables of the Route of the Refolution and Adventure, the variation ' of the compafs, and meteorological obfervations, during the voyage. 295 A Vocabulary of the Language of the Society Ifles, 31 7 r A Table j Table, exhibiting, at one view, fpecimens of different languages fpoken in the South Sea, from Eafler Ifland, iveftward to Neiv Caledonia, as obferved in the Voyage. 365 Letter from John Ibbetfon, Efq; Secretary to the Commiffoners of Longitude, to Sir fohn Pringle, Baronet, P. R. S. 367 A Difcourfe upon fome late improvements of the means for preferving the health of Mariners, delivered at the Anniverfary Meeting of the Royal Society, Nov. 30, 1776. By Sir John Pringle, Bart. Prefident. 369 ERRATA. VOL. I. P. 98. 1. 2. for any, r. my. P. H2. 1. 29. for Skelkdrake, r. Sheldrake. P. 144. 1. 4. for come with, r. come up with. P. 247. 1. 10. for Sheaves, r. Shivers. P. 259. 1. 7. after gone about, dele the comma. P. 299. 1. 19. for Head, x. Hand. P, 307. 1. 21. for 15Q, r. 15'. P. 378. 1. 2. for lojl, r. gained. VOL. II. P. 45. 1. \. for twardsy r. towards. P. 77. I. penult, for funner, r. Immer. P. 154. I. 7, for/; r. in a. P. 262. I. 18. for get at, r. get an. P. 274. 1. 9. for favingy x. jowing. P. 376. 1. 5. for fcarce, Ti fcarcely. For Mr, Spearman, in more than one place, r. Mr, Sparrtnan. In the General Chart of the Southern Hemifphere, Captain Cook's Track is by miftalce marked on the North Side of Furneaux's Ifland, inftead of the South Side. Ift a few Days will be PuMJhedy THE ORIGINAL ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS, made IN the course OF A VOYAGE towards the SOUT H, and ROUND THE WORLD, In his Majesty's Ships the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE} FOR Determining the Variations of the Compafs, the Latitude of the Ship, and her Longitude, both by Obfervations of the Moon's Diftance from the Sun and Fixed Stars ; and alfo by Four different Time-Keepers : together with Accurate Journals of the Ship's Place every Day at Noon by each of thefe Methods, and alfo by the dead Reckoning, and the true Situations of all the Places feen in that Voyage, as deduced therefrom. to which are added, The Times of High and Low Water, and alfo the Height of the Tides at th'fe Places; Meteorological Journals of the Weather; and many other intereiling and ufefal Agronomical, Hydrographical, and Philofophical Cbfervauons and Experiments, Made by WILLIAM WALES, F. R. S. Now Matter of the Royal Mathematical School in ChrifVs Hofpital; And Mr. WILLIAM BAYLEY, Late Afiiftant at the Royal Obfervatory. 83* This Work is pubJiflied by Order of the Commlffioners of Longitude, at whofe Exp&ice the Obfervations were made; and is printed on the fame Size with Captain Cook's Voyage, for the Conveniency of thofe Purchafers who may choofc to bind them together. V O Y A G E TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. BOOK III. From Ulietea to New Zealand. C H A P. I. Pajfage from Ulietea to the Friendly Ifles ; with a Description of feveral Iflands that were difcQvered, and th& Incidents which happened in that Track* ON the 6th, being the day after leaving Ulietea, at I774 eleven o'clock A. M., we faw land bearing N. W., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a Mondar low reef iiland about four leagues in compafs, and of a circular form. It is compofed of feveral fmall patches connected together by breakers, the largeft lying on the N. E. part. 1 his is Llowe Iiland, difcovered by Captain Wallis, who, I Vol. II. B think, *774« think, fent his boat to examine it; and, if I have not been <-mifinformcd, found a channel through, within the reef, Mooday 6. ^ N w T|1C inhabitltfts of Ulietea fpeak of an uninhabited ifland, about this fituation, called by them Mo-peha, to which they go at certain feafons for turtle. Perhaps this may be the fame; as we faw no figns of inhabitants upon it. Its latitude is 160 46' South; longitude 154° 8' Welt. Thurfday 16. From this day to the 16th, we met with nothing remarkable, and our courfe was Weft foutherly ; the winds variable from North round by die Eafbto S. W., attended with cloudy, rainy, unfettled weather, and a foutherly fwell. We generally brought to, or Hood upon a wind, during night; and in the day made all the fail we could. About half an hour after fun-rife this morning, land was feen from the top-mad: head, bearing N. N. E. We immediately ahered the courfe and fleering for it, found it to be another Reef Ifland, com-pofed of five or fix woody iflots, connected together by fand banks and breakers, inclofing a lake, into which we could fee no entrance. We ranged the Weft and N. W. coafts, from its fouthern to its northern extremity, which is about two leagues; andfo near the more, that at one time we could fee the rocks under us j yet we found no anchorage, nor faw we any figns of inhabitants. There were plenty of various kinds of birds, and the coafl fcemed to abound with fifh. The fituation of this ifle is not very diftant from that aligned by Mr. Dalrymplc for La Sagitaria, difcovered by Quiros ; but, by the defcription the difcoverer has given of it, it cannot be the fame. For this reafon, I looked upon it as a new difco-very, and named it Palmerflon Ifland, in honour of LordPal-merflon, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. It is fituated in latitude 180 4' South, longitude 1630 10' Weft. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 3 At four o'clock in the afternoon we left this ifle and re- J 774- n June. fumed our courfe to the W. by S. with a fine fleady gale carter- v—H—j ly, till noon on the 20th, at which time, being in latitude 180 Monday 20. 50', longitude 1680 52', we thought we faw land to S. S. W.» and hauled up for it accordingly. But two hours after, we difcovered our miftake, and re fumed our courfe W. by S. Soon after we faw land from the mail-head in the fame direction ; and, as we drew nearer, found it to be an iiland which, at five o'clock, bore Weft, diftant five leagues. Here we fpent the night plying under the top-fails j and, at daybreak next morning, bore away, fleering for the northern point, and ranging the Weft coaft at the diftance of one mile, till near noon. Then, perceiving fome people on the more, and landing feeming to be eafy, we brought to, and hoifted out two boats, with which I put oil to the land, accompanied by fome of the officers and gentlemen. As we drew near the more, fome of the inhabitants, who were on the rocks, retired to the woods, to meet us, as we fuppofed; and we afterwards found our conjectures right. We landed with eafc in a fmall creek, and took poll on a high rock to prevent a furprife. Here we difplayed our colours, and Mr. Forfter and his party began to collect plants, Sec. The coaft was fo over-run with woods, bullies, plants, ftones, &c. that we could not fee forty yards round us. I took two men, and with them entered a kind of chafm, which opened a way into the woods. We had not gone far before we heard the natives approaching; upon which I called to Mr. Forfter to retire to the party, as I did like wife. We had no fooncr joined, than the iflanders appeared at the entrance of a chafm not a ftone's-throw from us. We began to fpeak, and make all the friendly (igns wc could think of, to them, which they anfwered by menaces ; and one of two men, who were advanced before the reft, B 2 threw ■774- threw a (lone, which {truck Mr. Spearman on the arm. Upon* s—.-1 this two mufquets were fired, without order, which made them all retire under cover of the woods ; and we faw them no more. After waiting fome little time, and till we were fatiafied nothing was to be done here, the country being fo over-run with buftics, that it was hardly poflible to come to parly with them, we embarked and proceeded down along more, in hopes of meeting with better fuccefs in another place. After ranging the coaft, for fome miles, without feeing a living foul, or any convenient landing-place, we at length came before a fmall beach, on which lay four canoes. Here we landed by means of a little creek, formed by the flat rocks before it, with a view of jufl looking at the canoes, and to leave fome medals, nails, &c. in them j for not a foul was to be feen. The fituation of this place wTas to us worfe than the former. A flat rock lay next the fea ; behind it a narrow none beach; this was bounded by a perpendicular rocky clifF of unequal height, whofe top was covered with fhrubs ; two deep and narrow chafms in the clifF feemed to open a communication into the country. In, or before one of thefe, lay the four canoes which we were going to look at; but in the doing of this, I faw we mould be cxpofed to an attack from the natives, if there were any, without being in a fituation proper for defence. To prevent this, as much as could be, and to fecure a retreat in cafe of an attack, I ordered the men to be drawn up upon the rock, from whence they had a view of the heights ; and only myfelf, and four of the gentlemen, went up to the canoes. We had been there but a few minutes, before the natives, I cannot fay how many, rufhed down the chafm out of the wood upon us. The endeavours II A k ve y \s I s li; . Lat........\{) iti *s? Longit. trtH a Greenw* Isle $f Lat. i» c.| S'.» + l'i W! a Gneenwv Savage Isle. Lat. 19 . oa.S? Longit. .i(>(), .J7W.1 iidiceiiw1 _iLilL^_, deavours \vc ufcd to bring them to a parly, were to no pur- 1774 nofe'; for they came with the ferocity of wild boars, and threw <-f.—1 their darts. Two or three mufquets, difcharged in the aiiv did not hinder one of them from advancing mil farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a fpear, which palled clofe over my fhoulder. His courage would have cod him his life, had not my mufquet miffed fire ; for I was not five paces from him, when he threw his fpear, and had rcfolved to fhoot him to fave myfelf. I was glad afterwards that it happened as it did. At this inftant, our men on the rock began to fire at others who appeared on the heights, which abated the ardour of the party we were engaged with, and gave us time to join our people, when I caufed the firing to ceafe. The laft difcharge fent all the iflanders to the woods, from whence they did not return fo long as we remained. We did not know that any were hurt. It was remarkable, that when I joined our party, I tried my mufquet in the air, and it went off as well as a piece could do. Seeing no good was to be got with thefe people, or at the ifle, as having no port, we returned on board, and having hoifted in the boats, made fail to W. S. W. 1 had forgot to mention, in its proper order, that having put afhore a little before we came to this laft place, three or four of us went upon the cliffs, where we found the country, as before, nothing but coral rocks, all over-run. with bullies ; fo that it was hardly poflible to penetrate into it j and we embarked again with intent to return directly on board, till we faw the canoes ; being directed . to the place by the opinion of fome of us, who thought they heard fome people. The conduct and afpect of thefe iflanders occafioned my naming it Savage Iiland. It is fituated in the latitude 19° 1 South, longitude 1690 37' Weil. It is about eleven leagues in 1774* in circuit j of a round form, and good height; and hath * _j deep waters clofe to its mores. All the fea-coaft, and as far Monday 20. }aianci as wc COuld fee, is wholly covered with trees, fhrubs, &c.; amongft which were fome cocoa-nut trees; but what the interior parts may produce, we know not. To judge of the whole garment by the fkirts, it cannot produce much: for fo much as we faw of it confided wholly of coral rocks, all over-run with woods and bufh.es. Not a bit of foil was to be feen ; the rocks alone fupplying the trees wirh humidity. If thefe coral rocks were firft formed in the fea by animals, how came they thrown up to fuch an height? Has this ifland been raifed by an earthquake ? Or has the fea receded from it ? Some philofophers have attempted to account for the formation of low ifles, fuch as are in this fea; but I do not know that any thing has been faid of high iflands, or fuch as I have been fpeaking of. In this iiland, not only the loofe rocks which cover the furface, but the cliffs which bound the ihorcs, are of coral flonc, which the continual beating of the fea has formed into a variety of curious caverns, fome of them very large i the roof or rock over them being fupported by pillars, which the foaming waves have formed into a multitude of ihapes, and made more curious than the caverns themfclves. In one, we faw light was admitted through a hole at the top; in another place, we observed that the whole roof of one of thefe caverns had funk in, and formed a kind of valley above, which lay confider-ably below the circumjacent rocks. 1 can fay but little of the inhabitants, who, I believe, are not numerous. They feemed to be flout well made men, were naked, except round the waifls, and fome of them had their faces, bread, and thighs painted black. The canoes i were were prccifely like thofe of Amftcrdam ; with the addition 1774- June. of a little riling like a gunwale on each fide of the open part; u~-^—> and had fome carving about them, which mewed that thefe ' ' people arc full as ingenious. Both thefe iflanders and their canoes, agree very well with the defcription M. de Bougainville has given of thofe he faw off the 111c of Navigators, which lies nearly under the fame meridian. After leaving Savage Ifland, wc continued to fleer W. S. W. Friday 24. with a fine eafterly trade-wind, till the 24th in the evening, when, judging ourfelves not far from Rotterdam, we brought to, and fpent the night plying under the top-fails. At day-break, next morning, we bore away Wed ; and, foon Saturday 2> after, faw a firing of iflands extending from S. S, W. by the Weft to N. N. W. The wind being at N. E., we hauled to N. W., with a view of difcovcring more diflinctly the ifles in that quarter ; but, prefently after, we difcovered a reef of rocks a-hcad, extending on each bow farther than we could fee. As we could not weather them, it became neceffary to tack and bear up to the South, to look for a pafTage that way. At noon, the fouthcrnmofl ifland bore S. W., diftant four miles. North of this ifle were three others, all connected by breakers, which we were not fure did not join to thofe we had feen in the morning, as fome were obferved in the intermediate fpace. Some iflands were alfo feen to the Weft of thofe four; but Rotterdam was not yet in fight. Latitude 200 23' S., longitude 174° 6' Weft. During the whole afternoon, we had little wind; fo that, at funfet, the fouth-ernmoft ifle bore W. N. W., diftant five miles ; and fome breakers, we had feen to the South, bore now S. S. W. A W. Soon after it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a great eaflerly fwell; which, however, happened to have no great great effect upon the fhip. The calm continued till four o'clock the next morning, when it was fuccceded by a breeze from the South. At day-light, perceiving a likelihood of a paffagc between the iflands to the North, and the breakers to the South, we flretched in Weft, and foon after faw more iflands, both to the S. W. and N. W, but the paffagc feemed open and clear. Upon drawing near the iflands, we founded, and found forty-five and forty fathoms, a clear fandy bottom. I was now quite cafy, fmce it was in our power to anchor, in cafe of a calm; or to fpend the night, if we found no paffagc. Towards noon, fome canoes came off to us from one of the ifles, having two or three people in each; who advanced boldly along-fide, and exchanged fome cocoa-nuts, and fhaddocks, for fmall nails. They pointed out to us Anamocka or Rotterdam; an advantage we derived from knowing the proper names. They likewife gave us the names of fome of the other ifles, and invited us much to go to theirs, which they called Cornango. The breeze frefhening, we left them aflern, and fleered for Anamocka; meeting with a clear paffige, in which we found unequal founding, from forty to nine fathoms, depending, I believe, in a great meafure, on our diflance from the iflands which form it. As we drew near the fouth end of Rotterdam, or Anamocka, wc were met by a number of canoes, laden with fruit and roots; but, as I did not fhorten fail, we had but little traffic with them. The people in one canoe enquired for me by name; a proof that thefe people have an inter-courfe with thofe of Amflcrdam. They importuned us much to go towards their coaft, letting us know, as we underflood them, that we might anchor there. This was on the S. W. fide of the ifland, where the coaft feemed to be Sheltered 6 from 376^8001 79^192590549 45 0999996 11^7568997 871^0958 6 452331 from the South and S. E. winds; but as the day was far 1774. fpent, I could not attempt to go in there, as it would have 1—^l^j _ . Sunday z6, been necefTary to have fent nrfl a boat in to examine it. I therefore flood for the north fide of the ifland, where we anchored about three-fourths of a mile from fliore; the extremes of it bearing S. 88° Eafl to S. W. $ a cove with a fandy beach at the bottom of it S. 50° Eafl. CHAP. II. Reception at Anamocka \ a Robbery and its Confequencesy with a Variety of other Incidents. Departure from the Ifland. A failing Canoe defcribed. Some Obfervations on the Navigation of thefe Iflanders* A Defcription of the If and, and of thofe in the Neighbourhood, with fo?m Account of the Inhabitants, and nautical Remarks. BEFORE we had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts in canoes, bringing with them yams and fhaddocks, which they exchanged for fmall nails and old rags. One man taking a vafl liking to our lead and line, got hold of it, and, in fpite of all the threats I could make ufe of, cut the line with a flone; but a difcharge of fmall fliot made him return it. Early in the morning, I went Mon(% 27» afhore, with Mr. Gilbert, to look for frcfli water. We landed in the cove above mentioned, and were received with great courtefy by the natives. After I had diftributcd fome pre- ients arnongd them, I afked for water, and was conducted Vol. 11. c to J774- to a pond of it that wasbrackifh, about three-fourths of a mile ■ | from the landing-place; which I fuppofe to be the fame that loiuia) 27. Tafman watered at. In the mean time, the people in the boat had laden her with fruit and roots, which the natives had brought down, and exchanged for nails and beads. On our return to the fhip, I found the fame fort of traffic carrying on there. After breakfaft,. I went afhore with two boats to trade with the people, accompanied by feveral of the gentlemen, and ordered the launch to follow with cafks to be filled with water. The natives afMed us to roll them to and from the pond; and a nail or a bead was the expence of their labour. Fruit and roots, efpecially fhaddocks and yams, were brought down in fuch plenty, that the two boats were laden, fent olF, cleared, and laden a fecond time, before noon; by which time alfo the launch had got a full fupply of water, and the botanical and fhooting parties had all come in, except the furgeon, for whom we could not wait, as the tide was ebbing fall out of the cove ; confequcntly he was left behind. As there is no getting into the cove with a boat, from between half ebb to half flood, we could get off no water in the afternoon. However, there is a very good landing-place, without it, near the fouthcrn point, where boats can get afhore at all times of the tide; here fome of the officers landed after dinner, where they found the furgeon, who had been robbed of his gun. Having come down to the fliore fome time after the boats had put off, he got a canoe to bring him on board; but, as he was getting into her, a fellow matched hold of the gun, and ran off with it. After that no one would carry him to the fhip, and they would have flopped him, as he imagined, had he not picfcnted a tooth-pick cafe, which they, no-doubt, thought was a little gun. As foon as I heard of this, I landed at the place place above mentioned, and the few natives who were there 1774. fled at my approach. After landing, I went in fcarch of the «— rr , , Monday t7i oilicers, whom I found in the cove, where wc had been in the morning, with a good many of the natives about them. No ftep had been taken to recover the gun, nor did I think proper to take any; but in this I was wrong. The eafy manner of obtaining this gun, which they now, no doubt, thought fecure in their pofTefiion, encouraged them to proceed in thefe tricks, as will foon appear. The alarm the natives had caught being foon over, they carried fruit, &c. to the boats, which got pretty well laden before night, when we all returned on board. Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerkc, with the Maflcr and fourteen or fifteen men, went on more in the launch for water. I did intend to have followed in another boat myfelf, but rather unluckily deferred it till after break-faft. The launch was no fooner landed than the natives gathered about her, behaving in fo rude a manner, that the officers were in fome doubt if they mould land the cafks; but, as they expected me on fliore foon, they ventured, and, with difficulty, got them filled, and into the boat again. In the doing of this Mr. Clcrkc's gun was matched from him, and carried off; as were alfo fome of the Cooper's tools; and feveral of the people were ftripped of one thing or another. All this was done, as it were, by ftealth; for they laid hold of nothing by main force. I landed juft as the launch was ready to put off; and the natives, who were pretty numerous on the beach, as foon as they faw me, fled; fo that I fufpected fomething had happened. However, I prevailed on many to flay, and Mr. Gierke came, and informed me of all the preceding circumflances. I quickly came to a refolution to oblige them to make reflitution ; and, for this pur- C 2 pofe, pofe, ordered all the marines to be armed, and fent on more. Mr. Forfter and his party being gone into the country, I ordered two or three guns to be fired from the fhip, in order to alarm him; not knowing how the natives might acton this occafion. Thefe orders being given, I fent all the boats off but one, with which I flayed, having a good many of the natives about me, who behaved with their ufual courtefy. I made them fo fenfible of my intention, that long before the marines came, Mr. Clerke's mufquet was brought; but they ufed many excufes to divert me from infilling on the other. At length Mr. Edgcumbe arriving with the marines, this alarmed them fo much, that fome fled. The firfl ftep I took was to feize on two large double failing canoes, which were in the cove. One fellow making refiftance, I fired fome fmall fhot at him, and fent him limping off. The natives being now convinced that I was in earneft, all fled; but on my calling to them, many returned; and, prefently afters the other mufquet was brought, and laid down at my feet* That moment, I ordered the canoes to be reftored, to mew them on what account they were detained. The other things we had loft being of lefs value, I was the more indifferent about them. By this time the launch was afhore for another turn of water, and we were permitted to fill the cafks without any one daring to come near us; except one man, who had befriended us during the whole affair, and feemed to difapprove of the conduct of his countrymen. On my returning from the pond to the cove, I found a good many people collected together, from whom we underftood that the man I had fired at was dead. This flory I treated as improbable,and addreffed a man, who feemed of fome confequence, for the reftitution of a cooper's adze wc had bad loft in the morning. He immediately fent away two J774- men, as I thought, for it; but I foon found that we had greatly miftaken each other; for, inftead of the adze, they brought the wounded man, ftretched out on a board, and laid him down by me, to all appearance dead. I was much moved at the fight; but foon faw my miftake, and that he was only wounded in the hand and thigh. I therefore defired he might be carried out of the fun, and fent for the furgcon to drefs his wounds. In the mean time, I addreffed feveral people for the adze; for as I had now nothing elfe to do, I determined to have it. The one I applied the moft to, was an elderly woman, who had always a great deal to fay to me, from my firft landing; but, on this occafion, Ihe gave her tongue full fcope. I underftood but little of her eloquence; and all I could gather from her arguments was, that it was mean in me to infill on the return of fo trifling a thing. But when fhe found I was determined, fhe and three or four more women, went away; and foon after the adze was brought me, but I faw her no more. This I was forry for, as I wanted to make her a prefent, in return for the part fhe had taken in all our t ran factions, private as well as public. For I was no fooner returned from the pond, the ■ firft time I landed, than this old lady prefentcd to me a girl, giving me to underftand fhe was at my fervice. Mifs, who probably had received her inftructions, wanted, as a preliminary article, a fpike-nail, or a fhirt, neither of which I had 10 give her, and foon made them fenfible of my poverty. I thought, by that means, to have come off with flying colours; but I was miftaken ; for they gave me to underftand I might retire with her on credit. On my declining this propofal, the old lady began to argue with me; and then abufe me. Though I comprehended little of what fire faid, her actions actions were exprefllvc enough, and mewed that her words were to this effect:, fneering in my face, faying, what fort of a man are you, thus to refufe the embraces of fo fine a young woman ? For the girl certainly did not want beauty ; which, however, I could better withfland, than the abufes of this worthy matron, and therefore haftened into the boat. They wanted me to take the young lady aboard; but this could not be done* as I had given ftrict orders, before I went afhore, to fuller no woman, on any pretence whatever, to come into the fhip, for reafons which I mail mention in another place. As foon as the furgeon got afhore, he dreffed the man's wounds, and bled him; and was of opinion that he was in no fort of danger, as the fhot had done little more than penetrate the fkin. In the operation, fome poultice being wanting, the furgeon afked for ripe plantains; but they brought fugar-cane, and having chewed it to a pulp, gave it him to apply to the wound. This being of a more bal-famic nature than the other, proves that thefe people have fome knowledge of fimples. As foon as the man's wounds were dreffed, I made him a prefent, which his mafler, or at lcafl the man who owned the canoe, took, mofl probably to himfelf. Matters being thus fettled, apparently to the fatis-faction of all parties, we repaired on board to dinner, where I found a good fupply of fruit and roots, and therefore gave orders to get every thing in readinefs to fail. I now was informed of a circumflance which was obferved on board: feveral canoes being at the fhip, when the great guns were fired in the morning, they all retired, but one man, who was bailing the water out of his canoe, which lay along- along-fide directly under the guns. When the fir ft was fired, 1774. he juft looked up, and then, quite unconcerned, continued Tuefday 28. his work. Nor had the fecond gun any other effect upon him. He did not ftir till the water was all out of his canoe, "when he paddled leifurely off. This man had, feveral times, been obferved to take fruit and roots out of other canoes, and fell them to us. If the owners did not willingly part with them, he took them by force; by which he obtained the appellation of cuftom-houfe officer. One time, after he had been collecting tribute, he happened to be lying along-fide of a failing canoe which was on board. One of her people feeing him look another way, and his attention otherwife engaged, took the opportunity of ftealing fome-what out of his canoe : they then put off, and fet their fail. But the man, perceiving the trick they had pla}'cd him, darted after them, and having foon got on board their canoe, beat him who had taken his things, and not only brought back his own but many other articles which he took from them. This man had likewife been obferved making collections on fhorc at the trading-place. I remembered, to have feen him there ; and, on account or his gathering tribute, took him to be a man of confequence, and was going to make him a prefent; but fome of their people would not let me; faying he was no Areeke (that is, chief). He had his hair always powdered with fome kind of white duft. As we had no wind to fail this afternoon, a party of us ^ent afhore in the evening. We found the natives every where courteous and obliging; fo that, had wc made a longer ftay, it is probable we fliould have had no more rea-fon to complain of their conduct. While I was now on: X fttore. »774- fhore, I got the names of twenty iflands which lie between vJ^ll!—t the N. W. and N. E., fome of them in fight. Two of them, Tuefddy28. ^j^h ue mofl- to tne Weft, viz. Amattafoa and Oghao, are remarkable on account of their great height. In Amattafoa, which is the wefternmoft, we judged there was a volcano, by the continual column of fmoke we faw daily afcend-ing from the middle of it. Both Mr. Cooper and myfelf being on fhore at noon, Mr. Wales could not wind up the watch at the ufual time; and, as we did not come on board till late in the afternoon, it was forgotten till it was down. This circumftance was of no confequence, as Mr. Wales had had feveral altitudes of the fun at this place, before it went down; and alfo had opportunities of taking fome after. Wednef. 29. At day-break on the 29th, having got under fail with a light breeze at Weft, we flood to the North for the two high iflands; but the wind, fcanting upon us, carried us in amongft the low ifles and fhoals; fo that we had to ply, to clear them. This gave time for a great many canoes, from all parts, to get up with us. The people in them brought for traffic various articles; fome roots, fruits, and fowls, but of the latter not many. They took in exchange fmall nails, and pieces of any kinds of cloth. I believe, before they went away, they ftripped the moil of our people of the few clothes the ladies of Otaheite had left them; for the paflion for curiofities was as great as ever. Having got clear of the low ifles, we made a ftretch to the Southf and did but fetch a little to windward of the fouth end of Anamocka; fo that wc got little by this day's plying. Here we fpent the night, making fhort boards over that fpace * with AND ROUND THE WORLD, with which wc had made ourfelves acquainted the preced- 1774- On the 30th at day-break flretched out for Amattafoa, with a gentle breeze at W. S. W. Day no fooner dawned than we faw canoes coming from all parts. Their traffic was much the fame as it had been the day before, or rather better; for out of one canoe I got two pigs, which were fcarce articles here. At four in the afternoon, wc drew near the ifland of Amattafoa, and palTed between it and Oghao, the channel being two miles broad, fafe and without foundings. While we were in the pafTagc, we had little wind and calms. This gave time for a large failing double canoe, which had been following us all the day, as well as fome •others with paddles, to come up with us. I had now an opportunity to verify a thing I was before in doubt about; which was, whether or no fome of thefe canoes did not, in changing tacks, only fliift the fail, and fo proceed with that end forcmofl, which before was the Item. The one we now faw wrought in this manner. The fail is lattcen, extended to a latteen yard above, and to a boom at the foot; in one word, it is like a whole mizzen, fuppofing the whole foot to be extended to a boom. The yard is flung nearly in the middle, or upon an equipoife. When they change tacks they throw the veffel up in the wind, eafe off the fhect, and bring the heel or tack-end of the yard to the other end of the boat, and the flieet in like manner^ there are notches, or fockets, at each end of the veffel in which the end of the yard fixes. In fhort, they 'Work jufl as thofe do at the Lad rone Iflands, according to Mr. Walter's defcription*'. When they want to fail large, or be- ing day. June. Thurfday 30, Vol. 11. fore 17.74- fore the wind, the yard is taken out of the focket and !_„•!-"!!,_, fquared. It mufl be obferved, that all their failing velTels hurfday 3o. not rjggec] t0 fa^ m tiie famc manner. Some, and thofe of the largefl fize, are rigged fo as to tack about. Thefe have a fhort but pretty flout mail, which Heps on a kind of roller that is fixed to the deck near the fore-part. It is made to lean or incline very much forward; the head is forked j on the two points of which the yard reds, as on two pivots, by means of two flrong cleats of wood fecured to each fide of the yard, at about one-third its length from the tack or heel, which, when under fail, is confined down between the two canoes, by means of two flrong ropes, one to and palling 'through a hole at the head of each canoe ; for, it mufl be obferved, that all the failing veflels of this fort are double* The tack being thus fixed, it is plain that, in changing tacks, the veflels mud be put about; the fail and boom on the one tack will be clear of the mad, and on the other it will lie againft it, jufl as a whole mizzen. However, I am not furc if they do not fometimes unlace that part of the fail from the yard which is between the tack and mafl-head, and fo fhift both fail and boom leeward of the mafl. The drawings which Mr. Hodges made of thefe veflels feem to favour this fuppolition, and will not only illuflrate, but in a man* ncr make the defcription of them unneceffary. The outriggers and ropes ufed for fhrouds, &c. are all flout and flrong. Indeed, the fail, yard, and boom, are all together of fuch an enormous weight, that ftrength is required. The fummit of Amattafoa was hid in the clouds the whole day, fo that we were not able to determine with certainty whether there was a volcano or no; but every thing we 7 could 2>rawn iroui ^Nature tyTCHb^fos ATS OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES ArigftggUBA/"//jft.iy*W?Jfo#XmH*m Wtw Street M«* r.n,„, ,„„/'/%,>? (We// in tAe&bw&J^tf^ ^5^969582595^7 4893 Thurfday 30. could fee concurred to make us believe there was. This 1774- •n j • j- June. iiland is about five leagues in circuit. Oghao is not fo v—v-* much; but more round and peaked. They lie in the direction of N. N. W. i W. from Anamocka, eleven or twelve leagues diftant; they are both inhabited; but neither of them feemed fertile. We were hardly through the paffage before we got a frefh breeze at South. That moment, all the natives made hafle to be gone, and we fleered to the Wefl, all fails fet. I had fome thoughts of touching at Amflerdam, as it lay not much out of the way; but, as the wind was now, we could not fetch it; and this was the occafion of my laying my defign afide altogether. Let us now return to Anamocka, as it is called by the natives. It is fituated in the latitude of 200 15' South, longitude 1740 31' Weft, and was firfl difcovered by Tafman and by him named Rotterdam. It is of a triangular form, each fide whereof is about three and a half or four miles. A fait water lake in the middle of it, occupies not a little of its furface, and in a manner cuts off the S. E. angle. Round fhe ifland, that is from the N. W. to the South, round by the North and Eafl, lie fcattered a number of fmall ifles, fand-banks, and breakers. We could fee no end to their extent to the North ; and it is not impoffible that they reach as far South as Amflerdam, or Tongatabu. Thefe, together with Middleburg or Eaoowee, and Pylflart, make a group, containing about three degrees of latitude and two of longitude, which I have named the Friendly Ifles or Archipelago, as a nrm all ia-nce and friendfhip feems to fubfifl among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to flrangers intitles them to that appellation; under which we might perhaps ex- D 2 tend 1774- tend their group much farther, even down to Bofcawen and w—*J—' KeppcPs Hies, difcovered by Captain Wallis, and lying nearly urf 3c unc|cr tne fumc meridian, and in the latitude of ij° 53' j for from the little account I have had of the people of thefe two ifles, they fecm to have the fame fort of friendly difpofi-tion we obferved in our Archipelago. The inhabitants, productions, &c. of Rotterdam, and the neighbouring ifles, are the fame as at Amflerdam. Hogs and fowls arc, indeed, much fcarcer; of the former having got but fix, and not many of the latter. Yams and fhad-docks were what we got the molt of; other fruits were not fo plenty. Not half the ifle is laid out in inclofed plantations as at Amflerdam ; but the parts which are not inclofed, are not lefs fertile or uncultivated. There is, however, far more wafle land on this ifle, in proportion to its fize, than upon the other; and the people fecm to be much poorer j that is, in cloth, matting, ornaments, &c. which conflitute a great part of the riches of the South Sea iflanders. The people of this ifle fcem to be more affected with the leprofy, or fome fcrophulous diforder, than any I have feen elfewhere. It breaks out in the face more than any other part of the body. I have feen feveral whofe faces were ruined by it, and their nofes quite gone. In one of my ex-curfions, happening to peep into ahoufe where one or more of them were, one man only appeared at the door, or hole by which I mufl have entered, and which he began to flop up, by drawing feveral parts of a cord acrofs it. But the intolerable flench which came from his putrid face was alone fufficient to keep mc out, had the entrance been ever fo • wide. His nofe was quite gone, and his wholcface in one continued tinued ulcer; fo that the very fight of him was mocking. As 1774. our people had not all got clear of a certain difcafe they had contracted at the Society Ifles, I took all poffible care to prevent its being communicated to the natives here; and I have reafon to believe my endeavours fucccedcd. Having mentioned a houfe, it may not be amifs to obferve, that fome here differ from thofe I faw at the other ifles ; being inclofed or walled on every fide with reeds neatly put together but not clofe. The entrance is by a fquare hole about two and a half feet each way. The form of thefe houfes is an oblong fquare; the floor or foundation every way fhorter than the eve, which is about four feet from the ground. By this conflru&ion, the rain that fall's on the roof, is carried off from the wall; which otherwife would decay and rot. We did not diitinguifh any king, or leading chief, or any perfon who took upon him the appearance of fupreme authority. The man and woman before mentioned, whom I believed to be man and wife, mterclted thcmfelveson feveral occafions in our affairs j i>ut it was cafy to ice they had no great authority. Amongfl other things which I gave them as a reward for their fervice, was a young dog and bitch, animals which they have not, but are very fond of, and know very well byname. They have fome of the fame fort of earthen pots we faw at Amflerdam ; and I am of opinion they are of their own manufacture, or that of fome neighbouring ifle. The road, as I have already mentioned, is on the North fide of the .fie, juft to the fouthward of the fouthernmoft cove; for there are two on this fide. The bank is of fome extent, and the bottom free from rocks, with twenty five and twenty fathoms water, one or two miles from the fhore. Hre- Thurfday 30. Fire-wood is very convenient to be got at, and eafy to be fliipped of!; but the water is fo brackifh that it is not worth the trouble of carrying it on board; unlefs one is in great diftrefs for want of that article,, and can get no better. There is, however, better, not only on this ifle# but oh others in the neighbourhood; for the people brought us fome in cocoa-nut fhells, which was as good as need be; but probably the fprings are too trifling to water a fliip. I have already obferved that the S. W. fide of the iiland $ covered by a reef or reefs of rocks, and fmall ifles. If there be a fumcient depth of water between them and the ifland, as there appeared to be, and a good bottom, this would be a much fecurer place for a fhip to anchor in, than that where we had our ftation. CHAP. CHAP. III. The Paffage from the Friendly Ifles to the New Hebrides \ with an Account of the Difcovery of Turtle Iflimd, a?id a Variety of Incidents which happened, both before and after the Ship arrived in Port Sandwich in the Ifland of . Mallicollo*—A Defcription of the Port; the adjacent Country; its Inhabitants, and many other Particulars*, /^vN^the ifl of July, at fun-rife, Amattafoa was ftill in 1774. \*/ fight, bearing E. by N., diftant twenty leagues. Con- » tinuing our courfe to the Weft, we, the next day at noon, fJ ay • difcovered land bearing N. W. by W., for which we fleered ; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a fmall iiland. At four o'clock it bore, from N. W. ~ W., to N. W. by N., and, at the fame time, breakers were feen from the mail-head, extending from W. to S. W. The day being too far fpent to make farther difcoveries, we foon after fhortened fail, hauled the wind, and fpent the night making fhort boards, which, at day-break, we found had been fo advantageous that we Saturday 2. were farther from the ifland than we expected, and it was eleven o'clock before we reached the N. W. or lee fide, where anchorage and landing feemed practicable. In order to obtain a knowledge of the former, I fent the mailer with a boat, to found; and, in the mean time, we flood on and off with the ^11P« At this time four or five people were feen on the reef, 'which lies round the ifle, and about three times that number on the fhore. As the boat advanced, thofe on the reef retired retired and joined the others j and when the boat landed, they all fled to the woods. It was not long before the boat returned, when the mafter informed me that there were no foundings without the reef, over which, in one place only, he found a boat channel of fix feet water. Entering by it„ he rowed in for the fhore, thinking to fpeak with the people, not more than twenty in number, who were armed with clubs and fpears ; but the moment he fet his foot on more, they retired to the woods. He left on the rocks fome medals, nails, and a knife; which they, no doubt, found, as fome were feen near the place afterwards. This ifland is not quite a league in length, in the direction of N. E. and S. W., and not half that in breadth. It is covered with wood, and fur-rounded by a reef of coral rocks, which, in fome places, extend two miles from the more. It feems to be too fmall to contain many inhabitants ; and probably the few whom we faw, may have come from fome ifle in the neighbourhood to fi'fh for turtle ; as many were feen near this reef, and occa-fioned that name to be given to the iiland, which is fituated in latitude 190 48' South, longitude 178° 2! Weft. Seeing breakers to the S. S. W., which I was defirous of knowing the extent of before night, I left Turtle Ifle, and flood for them. At two o'clock we found they were occa-fioned by a coral bank, of about four or five leagues in circuit. By the bearing wc had taken, we knew thefe to be the fame breakers we had feen the preceding evening. Hardly any part of this bank or reef is above water at the reflux of the waves. The heads of fome rocks are to be feen near the edge of the reef, where it is thefhoalefl; for in the middle is deep water. In fhort, this bank wants only a few little iflots to make it exactly like one of the half-drowned ifles fo often .'■>tt/>tt'Jt.',/ /■.■/■'■'/•//--f /;,- 71"." Sfr,///."/ m -Yetr Str.-7 S6.>,- /.,://,-.< 77/, •;'/.>,/•///>/ ///.• S//w>. '/.,•//./,>// . N 0 III often mentioned. It lies S. W. from Turtle Ifland, about five 1774. or fix miles, and the channel between it and the reef of that .n , Saturday 2. ifle is three miles over. Seeing no more fhoals or rilanus, and thinking there might be turtle on this bank, two boats were properly equipped and fent thither ; but returned without having feen one. The boats were now hoiflcd in, and we made fail to the Weft, with a brifk gale at Eafl, which continued till the 9th, Saturday g, when we had, for a few hours, a breeze at N. W„ attended with fqualls of rain. This was fucceeded by a flcady frefh gale at S. E., with which we fleered N. W., being at this time in the latitude of 200 20' South, longitude 1760 8' Eafl. On the 15th at noon, being in the latitude of 150 9' South, Friday^, longitude 1710 16' Eafl, I fleered Weft. The next day the Saturday 16. weather was foggy, and the wind blew in heavy fqualls, attended with rain, which in this ocean, within the tropics, generally indicates the vicinity of fome high land. This was verified at three in the afternoon, when high land was feen bearing S. W. Upon this we took in the fmall fails, reefed the top-fails, and hauling up for it, at half paft five, we could fee it extend from S. S. W. to N. W. by W. -i W. Soon after we tacked and fpent the night, which was very flormy, in plying. Our boards were difadvantagcous ; for, in the morning, we found we had loft ground. This, indeed, Sunday 17. was no wonder, for having an old fuit of fails bent, the mod of them were fplit to pieces ; particularly a fore-top-fail, which was rendered quite ufelefs. We got others to the yards, and continued to ply, being defirous of getting round the South ends of the lands, or at leafl fo far to the South as to be able to judge of their extent in that direction. For no one doubted that this was the Auftralia del Efpiritu Santo Vol. II. E of of Quiros, which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cvclades <—----1 and that the coaft we were now upon was the Eafl fide of ?i Aurora Ifland, whofe longitude is 1680 30' Eafl. Monday 13. TQe gaje kept increaung till we were reduced to our low fails j fo that, on the 18th, at feven in the morning, I gave over plying, fet the top-fails double-reefed, bore up for, and hauled round the North end of Aurora Iiland, and then ftretehed over for the Ifle of Lepers, under clofe-rcefed top-fails and courfes, with a very hard gale at N. E.; but we had now the advantage of afmooth fea, having the Ifle of Aurora to windward. At noon the North end of it bore N. E, 7 N., diftant four leagues; our latitude, found by double altitudes, and reduced to this time, was 15° i' 30" South, longitude 168° 14.' Eafl. At two o'clock P. M. we drew near the middle of the Ifle of Lepers, and tacked about two miles from land; in which fituation we had no foundings with a line of feventy fathoms. We now faw people on the fhore, and many beautiful cafcades of water pouring down the neighbouring hills. The next time we flood for this ifle, we came to within half a mile of it, where we found thirty fathoms, a fandy bottom; but a mile off'we had no foundings at feventy fathoms. Here two canoes came off to us, in one of which were three men, and in the other but one. Though we made all the figns of friendfhip,we could not bring them nearer than a flone's-throw; and they made but a fhort flay before they retired afhore, where we faw a great number of people af-fembled in parties, and armed with bows and arrows. They are of a very dark colour; and, excepting fome ornaments at their breafl and arms, feemed to be entirely naked. As I intended to get to the South, in order to explore the land which might lie there, we continued to ply between the AND ROUND THE WORLD. 27 the Ifle of Lepers and Aurora; and on the 19th at noon, the 1774. n 1 J "lj • South end of the laft-mentioned ifle bore South 240 Eaft, and c-^—._j . Tuefdjy 19. the North end North, diftant twenty miles. Latitude obferved 150 if. The wind continued to blow flrong at S. E-> fo that what we got by plying in the day, we loit in the night. On the 20th at fun-rife, wc found ourfelvcs off the wdncf. 20. South end of Aurora, on the N. W, fide of which, the coaft forms a fmall bay. In this wc made fome trips to try for anchorage ; but found no lefs than eighty fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark fand, at half a mile from fhore. Nc-verthelcfs, I am of opinion that, nearer, there is much lefs depth, and fecure riding ; and in the neighbourhood is plenty of frefh water and wood for fuel. The whole ifle, from the fea-fhore to the fummits of the hills, feemed to be covered with the latter ; and every valley produced a fine flream of the former. We faw people on the fhore, and fome canoes on the coaft, but none came off to us. Leaving the bay jult mentioned, we ftrctched acrofs the channel which divides Aurora from Whitfuntide Ifland. At noon we were abrcaft of the North end of this latter, which bore E. N. E., and obferved in 150 q3^. The Ifle of Aurora bore from N. to N. E. V E., and the Hie of Lepers from N. by W. f W. to Weft. Whitfuntide Ifle appeared joined to the land to the S. and S. W. of it; but in ftretching toS. W. wedifcovcrcd the reparation. This was about four o'clock P. M., and then we tacked and ftretched in for the ifland till near fun-fet, when the wind veering more to the Eafl made it neceffary to refumc °ur courfe to the South. Wc faw people on the fhore, fmokes in many parts of the iiland, and feveral places which feemed to be cultivated. About midnight, drawing near the South land, we tacked and ftrctched to the North, in order to fpend the remainder of the night, E 2 At At day-break on the 21ft, wc found ourfclves before the «-J—1 channel that divides Whitfuntide Iiland from the South Land, hmfday at. wj1|c|1 js aDOUt twX) leagues over. At this time, the land to the fouthward extended from S. by E. round to the Weft, farther than the eye could reach, and on the part nearcft to us, which is of confiderable height, we obferved two very large columns of fmoke, which, I judged, afcended from Volcanos. We now flood S. S. \V., with a fine breeze at S. E.; and at ten o'clock, difcovered this part of the land to be an ifland which is called by the natives Ambrym. Soon after an elevated land appeared open of the South end of Ambrym ; and after that, another flill higher, on which is a high peaked hill. We judged thefe lands to belong to two feparate illands. The firft came in fight at S. E.; the fecond at E. by South, and they appeared to be ten leagues diftant. Holding on our courfe for the land ahead, at noon it was five miles diftant from us, extending from S. S. E. to N. W. by W., and appeared to be continued. The iflands to the Eaft bore from N. E. by E. to S. E. by E., latitude obferved 16° 1?' South. As we drew nearer the more we difcovered a creek, which had the appearance of being a good harbour, formed by a low point or peninfula, projecting out to the North. On this a number of people were affcmblcd, who feemed to invite us afhore; probably with no good intent, as the molt of them were armed with bows and arrows. In order to gain room and time to hoift out and arm our boats, to reconnoitre this place, we tacked and made a trip of?, which occafioned the difcovery of another port about a league more to the South. Having fent two armed boats to found, and look for anchorage, on their, making the fignal for the latter, we failed in 8. S. W., and anchored in eleven fathoms water, not two cables'-length from the S. E. more, and a mile within the entrance. We AND ROUND THE WORLD. 29 We had no fooner anchored than feveral of the natives • 1774. July. came off in canoes. They were very cautious at firft; but, ^ Thmfiay a lit at laft, truftcd themfclves along-fide, and exchanged, tor pieces of cloth, arrows ; fome of which were pointed with bone, and dipped in fome green gummy fubftancc, which we naturally fuppofed was poifonous. Two men having ventured on board, after a fhort flay I fent them away with prefents. Others, probably induced by this, came off by moon-light; but I gave orders to permit none to come along-fide j by which means we got clear of them for the night. Next morning early, a good many came round us, fome Friday 22, in canoes, and others fwimming. I foon prevailed on one to come on board ; which he no fooner did, than he was followed by more than I defircd ; fo that not only our deck, but rigging was prefently filled with them. I took four into the cabbin, and gave them various articles, which they fhe wed-to thofe in the canoes, and feemed much plcafed with their reception. While I was thus making friends with thofe in the cabbin, an accident happened that threw all into con-fufion, but in the end, I believe, proved advantageous to us. A fellow in a canoe having been refufed admittance into one of our boats that lay along-fide, bent his bow to fhoot a poifoned arrow at the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen prevented his doing it that inflant, and gave time to acquaint me with it. I ran inftantly on deck, and faw another man ftruggling with him ; one of thofe who had been in the cabbin, and had leapt out of the window for this pur-pofe. The other feemed refolvcd, fliook him off, and directed his bow again to the boat-keeper ; but, on my calling to him, pointed it at me. Having a mufquet in my hand: loaded with fmall fliot, I gave him the contents. This ftaggeredl 1774- flaggered him for a moment, but did not prevent him from .---1 holding his bow ftill in the attitude of fhooting. Another "y zz' difchargc of the fame nature, made him drop it, and the others, who were in the canoe, to paddle off with all fpeed. At this time, fome began to fhoot arrows on the other fide. A mufquet difcharged in the air had no effecl:; but a four-pound fliot over their heads, fent them off in the utmofl confufion. Many quitted their canoes and fwam on fhore: thofe in the great cabbin leaped out of the windows; and thofe who were on the deck, and on different parts of the rigging, all leaped over-board. After this we took no farther notice of them, but fuffercd them to come ofFand pick up their canoes; and fome even ventured again along-fide the fhip. Immediately after the great gun was fired, we heard the beating of drums on fhore; which was, probably, the fignal for the country to alienable in arms. Wc now got every thing in readinefs to land, to cut fome wood, which we were in want of, and to try to get fome refrefliments, nothing of this kind having been feen in any of the canoes. About nine o'clock, wc put off in two boats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who were affem-bled on the fhore. Though they were all armed with bows and arrows, clubs and fpears, they made not the leaftoppo-fition. On the contrary, feeing me advance alone, with nothing but a green branch in my hand, one of them, who feemed to be a chief, giving his bow and arrows to another, met me in the water, bearing alfo a green branch, which having exchanged for the one I held, he then took me by the hand, and led me up to the crowd. I immediately diflri-butcd prefents to them, and, in the mean time, the marines were drawn up upon the beach. I then made figns (for 7 we we underftood not a word of their language) that we wanted wood; and they made figns to us to cut down the trees. By this time, a fmall pig being brought down and prefented to me, I gave the bearer a piece of cloth, with which he feemed well pleafed. This made us hope that we fhould foon have fome more ; but we were miftaken. The pig was not brought to be exchanged for what we had, but on fome other account; probably as a peace-offering. For, all we could fay or do, did not prevail on them to bring down, after this, above half a dozen cocoa-nuts, and a fmall quantity of frcfli water. They fet no value on nails, or any fort of iron tools; nor indeed on any thing we had. They would, now and then, exchange an arrow for a piece of cloth ; but very fel-dom would part with a bow. They were unwilling we mould go off the beach, and very dcfirous we fliould return on board. At length, about noon, after fending what wood we had cut on board, we embarked ourfelves; and they all retired, fome one way and fome another. Before we had dined, the afternoon was too far fpent to do any thing on fhore ; and all hands were employed, fetting up the rigging, and repairing fome defects in it. But feeing a man bring along the ftrand a buoy, which they had taken in the night from the kedge anchor, I went on fhore for it, accompanied by fome of the gentlemen. The moment we landed, it was put into the boat, by a man who walked off again without fpeaking one word. It ought to be obferved, that this was the only thing they took, or even attempted to take from us, by any means whatever. Being landed near fonae of their plantations and houfes, which were juft within the fkirts of the woods, I prevailed on one man to conduct me to them; but, though they fuffered Mr.Forfter to go with me, they were unwiHing anv more fliould follow. Thefe houfes 1774- houfes were fomething like thofe of the other ifles; rathe* v—low, and covered with palm thatch. Some were inclofed, or n ay 22. wa]Tej r0und with boards; and the entrance to thefe wa by a fquare hole at one end, which at this time was fhut up, and they were unwilling to open it for us to look in. There were here about fix houfes, and fome fmall plantations of roots, &c, fenced round with reeds, as at the Friendly Ifles. There were, likewife, fome bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and plantain trees ; but very little fruit on any of them. A good many fine yams were piled up upon flicks, or a kind of raifed platform; and about twenty pigs, and a few fowls, were running about loofe. After making thefe obfervations, having embarked, we proceeded to the S. E. point of the harbour, where we again landed and walked along the beach till we could fee the iflands to the S. E. already mentioned. The names of thefe we now obtained, as well as the name of that on which we were. This they called Mallicollo*; the ifland that firfl appeared over the fouth end of Ambrym is called Apee; and the other, with the hill on it, Paoom. We found on the beach a fruit like an orange, called by them Abbi-mora ; but whether it be fit for eating I cannot fay, as this was decayed. Proceeding next to the other fide of the harbour, we there landed, near a few houfes, at the invitation of fome people who came down to the fhore; but we had not been there five minutes before they wanted us to be gone. We complied, and proceeded up the harbour in order to found it, and to look for frefli water, of which, as yet, we had feen none, but the very little that the natives brought, which wc knew not where they got. Nor was our fearch now attend- * Or Mallicolla. Some of our people pronounced it Manicolo or Manicola, and thus it is alfo writ in Quiios's Memorial, as printed by Dalrymple, vol. ii. p. 146. 1 ed ed with fuccefs ; but this is no proof that there is not any. 1774. The dav was too far fpent to examine the place well enough vTr^—^ J 1 . j Friday z2. to determine this point. Night having brought us on board, I was informed that no foul had been oil to the fhip ; fo foon was the curiofity of thefe people fatisficd. As we were coming on board, wc heard the found of a drum, and, I think, of fome other inftruments, and faw people dancing *, but as foon as they heard the noife of the oars, or faw us, all was filent. Being unwilling to lofe the benefit of the moon-light nights, which now happened, at feven A. M. on the 23d, ^^43^ wc weighed ; and, with a light air of wind, and the afMance of our boats, proceeded out of the. harbour, the fouth end of which, at noon, bore W. S. W., diftant about two miles. When the natives faw us under fail, they came off in canoes, making exchanges with more confidence than before, and giving fuch extraordinary proofs of their honefty as furprifed us. As the fhip, at firft, had frefh way through the water, feveral of them dropped aftern after they had received our goods, and before they had time to deliver theirs in return. Inftcad of taking advantage of this, as our friends at the Society Ifles would have done, they ufed their utmoft efforts to get up with us, and to deliver what they had already been paid for. One man, in particular, followed us a con-fiderable time, and did not reach us till it was calm, and the thing was forgotten. As foon as he came along-fide he held UP the thing which feveral were ready to buy; but he re-fufed to part with it, till he faw the perfon to whom he had before fold it, and to him he gave it. The perfon, not know-ing him again, offered him fomething in return ; which he refufed, and fhe wed him what he had given him before. Vol. II. F picces Pieces of cloth, and marbled paper, were in moft eilcem with them ; but edge tools, nails, and beads they feemed to dif-regard. The greatcfl number of canoes we had along-fide at once did not exceed eight, and not more than four or five people in each ; who would frequently retire to the fhore all on a fudden, before they had difpofed of half their things, and then others would come off. At the time wc came out of the harbour, it was about low water, and great numbers of people were then on the fhoals or reefs which lie along the fhore, looking, as we fuppofed, for fhell and other fifljb Thus our being on their coaft, and in one of their ports, did not hinder them from following the neceffary employments. By this time they might be fatisficd we meant them no harm; fo that, had we made a longer ftay, we might foon have been upon good terms with this ape-like nation. For, in general, they arc tl.c moft ugly, ill-proportioned people I ever faw, and in every refpecr. different from any we had met with in this fea. They are a very dark-coloured and rather diminutive race ; with long heads, flat faces, and monkey countenances. Their hair moflly black or brown, is fhort and curly; but not quite fo foft and woolly as that of a negro. Their beards are very flrong, crifp, and bufhy, and generally black and fhort. But what moft adds to their deformity, is a belt or cord which they wear round the waiit, and tie fo tight over the belly, that the fhape of their bodies is not unlike that of an over-grown pifmire. The men go quite naked, except a piece of cloth or leaf ufed as a wrapper * 1 * The particular manner of applying the wrapper may be feen in Wafer's Voyagr, who mentions this fingular cullom as exilling, though with fome littie variation, amonglt the Indians of the Iltbmus of Darien. See Wafer's Voyage, p. 140. We MAN OF THE ISLAND OF MALL I COLO. We faw but few women, and they were not lefs ugly than the 1. m- \__ men ; their heads, faces, and moulders are painted red; they wear a kind of petticoat; and fome of them had fomcthingover their moulders like a bag, in which they carry their children. None of them came off to the fhip, and they generally kept at a diflance when we were on more. Their ornaments are ear-rings made of tortoife-fhell, and bracelets. A curious one of the latter, four or five inches broad, wrought with thread or cord, and fludded with fhclls, is worn by them jufl above the elbow. Round the right writ! they wear hogs tufks, bent circular, and rings made of fliells. and round their left, a round piece of wood, which wc judged was to ward off the bow-firing. The bridge of the nofe is pierced, in which they wear a piece of white flone, about an inch and an half long, and in this fhape (^/^"^^ • As ^Sns °f fncndfhip they prcfent a green branch, and fprinkle water with the hand over the head. Their weapons arc clubs, fpears, and bows and arrows. The two former are made of hard or iron-wood. Their bows arc about four feet long, made of a flick fplit down the middle, and are not circular, but in this form . The arrows, which are a fort of reeds, are fomctimcs armed with a long and fharp point, made of the hard wood, and fometimes with a very hard point made of bone ; and thefe points are all covered with a fub-flance which we took forpoifon. Indeed, the people them-felves confirmed our fufpicions, by making figns to us not to touch the point, and giving us to underiland that if we were pricked by them wc fliould die. They arc very careful of them thcmfelves, and keep them always wrapped up in E 2 a quiver. Saturday Z3. 1774- a quiver. Some of thefe arrows are armed with two or three July. . i-,-1 points, each with fmall prickles on the edges, to prevent the Saturday 23, arrow being drawn out of the wound. The people of Mallicollo feemed to be a quite different nation from any we had yet met with, and fpcak a different language. Of about eighty words, which Mr. Forfler collected, hardly one bears any affinity to the language fpoken at any other iiland or place I had ever been at. The letter R is ufed in many of their words; and frequently two or three being joined together, fuch words we found difficult to pronounce. I obferved that they could pronounce moft of our words with great eafe. They exprefs their admiration by hilling like a goofc. To judge of the country by the little we faw of it, it mufl be fertile; but I believe their fruits are not fo good as thofe of the Society or Friendly Ifles. Their cocoa-nut trces, I am certain, are not; and their bread-fruit and plantains did not fecm much better. But their yams appeared to be very good. We faw no other animals than thofe I have already mentioned. They have not fo much as a name for a dog, and confequently have none; for which reafon we left them a dog and a bitch; and there is no doubt they will be taken care of, as they were very fond of them. After we had got to fea, we tried what effect, one of the poifoned arrows would have on a dog. Indeed we had tried it in the harbour the very fir ft night, but we thought the' operation had been too flight, as it had no effeft. The furgeon now made a deep incifion in the dog's thigh, into which he laid a large portion of the poifon, juft as it was feraped from the arrows, and then bound up the wound with a bandage. For feveral days after we thought the dog was Saturday 23. was not fo well as he had been before; but whether this i;74- July. was really fo, or only fuggeiled by imagination, I know not. He was afterwards as if nothing had been done to him, and lived to be brought home to England. However, I have no doubt of this fluff being of a poifonous quality, as it could anfwer no other purpofe. The people feemed not unacquainted with the nature of poifon; for when they brought us water on fhore, they firfl tailed it, and then gave us to underftand we might with fafety drink it. This harbour, which is fituated on the N. E. fide of Malli-collo, not far from the S. E. end, in latitude 1g0 25' 20" $., longitude 1670 5/ 23" e., I named Port Sandwich. It lies in S. W. by S. about one league, and is one-third of a league broad. a reef of rocks extends out a little way from each point; but the channel is of a good breadth, and hath in it from forty to twenty-four fathoms water. In the port, the depth of water is from twenty to four fathoms; and it is fo fheltered that no winds can difturb a fhip at anchor there. Another great advantage is, you can lie fo near the fhore, as to cover your people, who. may be at work upon it. g k a p. C PI A P. IV. An Account of the Difcovery of feveral Iflands, an Liter-view and Skirmiflj with the Inhabitants upon one of them. The Arrival of the Ship at Tanna, and the Reception we met with there. nOON after we got to fea, we had a breeze at E. S. E., kJ) with which we Hood over for Ambrym till three o'clock in the afternoon, when the wind veering to E. N. E., we racked and ftrctched to the S. E.,and weathered the S. E. end of Mallicollo, off which wc difcovered three or four fmall iflands, that before appeared to be connected. At fun-fet the point bore S. 770 Weft, diftant three leagues, from which the coaft feemed to trend away Weft. At this time, the ifle of Ambrym extended from N. 30 E. to N. 6f E. The ifle of Paoom from N. 76° E. to S. 88° E.; and the ifle of Apee from S. 83° E. to S. 430 Eafl. We flood for this laft ifle, which we reached by midnight, and then brought to till day-break on the 24th, when we made fail to the S. E., with a view of plying up to the eaftward on the fouth fide of Apee. At fun-rife, we difcovered feveral more illands, extending from the S. E. point of Apee to the South as far as S. E. by S. The ncareft to us we reached by ten o'clock, and not being able to weather it, wc tacked a mile from its fhore in fourteen fathoms water. This ifland is about four leagues in circuit, is remarkable by having three high peaked hills upon it, by which it has obtained that name. In the P. IVI. the wind • veering more to the North, we refumcd our courfe to the 3 Eafl; Port Sandwich. in M ALL1COLLO. fit HARBOl K of in New Caled onl\ , Port Resolution; 1 m the Hie of Tank a, ( Eafl; and having weathered Threehills, flood for the group 17; of fmall ifles which lie off the S. E. point of Apee. Thefe I called Shepherd's Ifles, in honour of my worthy friend Dr. Shepherd, Plumian profeflbr of affronomy at Cambridge. Having a fine breeze, I had thoughts of going through between them ; but the channels being narrow, and feeing broken water in the one we were fleering for, I gave up the defign, and'bore up, in order to go without, or to the South of them. Before this could be accomplifhed, it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of the current, clolc to the ifles, where we could find no foundings with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms. We had now land or iflands in every direction, and were not able to count the number which lay round us. The mountain on Paoom was feen over the eafl end of Apee, bearing N. N. \V. at eight o'clock. A breeze at S. E. relieved us from the anxiety the calm had occafioned ; and we fpent the night making fhort boards. The night before wc came out of Port Sandwich, two red-dim flfh, about the fize of large bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and line. On thefe fifh mofl of the officers, and fome of the petty officers, dined the next day. The night following, every one who had eaten of them was feized with violent pains in the head and bones, attended with a fcorching heat all over the fkin, and numbnefs in the joints. There remained no doubt that this was occafioned by the fifh being of a poifonous nature, and having communicated its bad cfTecls to all who partook of them ; even so the hogs and dogs. One of the former died about fixteen hours after ; it was not long, before one of the latter fhared the fame fate ; and it was a week or ten days, before all the gentlemen recovered. Thefe mufl have been the fame fort of yj4- of fifh mentioned by Quiros*, under the name of Pargos, <—-< which poifoned the crews of his fliips, fo that it was fome time before they recovered ; and we mould, doubtlefs, have been in the fame fituation, had more of them been eaten. Sunday 24. Monday 2;. At day-break on the 25th, we made a fliort ftretch to the Eafl of Shepherd's Ifles till after fun-rife, when, feeing no more land in that direction, we tacked and flood for the ifland we had feen in the South, having a gentle breeze at S. E. We paffed to the Eafl of Threehills, and likewife of a low ifle, which lies on the S. E. fide of it, between a remarkable peaked rock which obtained the name of Monument, and a fmall ifland name-brook ifles, we tacked; and foon after ic fell calm. The calm continued till feven o'clock the next morning, when it Tuefday 26. was fucceeded by a breeze from the weflward. During the calm, having been carried by the currents and a S. E. fwell, four leagues to the W. N. W., we pafTed Hinchinbrook Ifle, faw the weftern extremity of Sandwich Ifland, bearing S. S. W., about five leagues diftant, and at the fame time difcovered a fmall ifland to the Weft of this direction. After getting the wefterly breeze, I fleered S. E., in order to pafs between Montagu Ifle and the north end of Sandwich Ifland. At noon we were in the middle of the channel, and obferved in latitude 170 31' S. The diftance from one ifland to the other is about four or five miles; but the channel is not much above half that bseadth, being contracted by breakers. We had no foundings in it with a line of forty fathoms. As we pafTed Montagu Ifle feveral people came down to the fea-fide, and, by figns, feemed to invite us afhore. Some were alfo feen on Sandwich Ifland, which exhibited a moft delightful profpect, being fpotted with woods and lawns, agreeably diverfified, over the whole furface. It hath a gentle flope from the hills, which are of a moderate height, down to the fea-coaft. This is low and guarded by a chain of breakers, fo that there is no approaching it at this part. But more to the Weft, beyond Hinchinbrook Ifland, there feemed to run in a bay fheltered from the reigning winds. The examining it not being fo much an object with me as the getting to the South, in order to find the fouthern extremity of the Archipelago, with this view I fleered S. S. E., Vol. II. G being J774« being the direction of the coaft of Sandwich Ifland. We July. l—v-o had but jufl got through the paflage, before the weft wind 1 ud ay 2 ' left us to variable light airs and calms ; fo that we were ap-prehenfive of being carried back again by the currents, or rather of being obliged to return in order to avoid being driven on the fhoals, as there was no anchorage, a line of an hundred and fixty fathoms not reaching to the bottom. At length a breeze fpringing up at S. W. we flood to S. E., and at fun-fet the Monument bore N. 140 30' Weft, and Montagu Ifland N. 280 Weft, diftant three leagues. We judged we faw the S. E. extremity of Sandwich Ifland bearing about S. by E. Wednef. 27. We continued to ftand to S, E. till four A. M. on the 27th, when we tacked to the Weft. At fun-rife having difcovered a new land bearing South, and making in three hills, this occafioned us to tack and ftand towards it. At this time Montagu Ifle bore N. 52° Weft, diftant thirteen leagues; at noon it was nearly in the fame direction, and the new land extended from S. -~ E. to S, by W., and the threehills feemed to be connected. Our latitude, by obfervation, was 180 1' S., and the longitude, made from Port Sandwich, i° 23' E. We continued to ftand to the S. E., with a gentle breeze at S. wV Thurl&y 28. and S. S, W., till the 28that fun-rife,when, the wind veering to the South, we tacked and flood to the Weft. The three hills mentioned above, we now faw, belonged to one ifland, which extended from S. 350 to 710 Weft, diflant about ten or twelve leagues. Retarded by contrary winds, calms, and the currents, that fct to N. W., we were three days in gaining this fpace; in which time we difcovered an elevated land to the South of this. It lirfl appeared in detached hummocks, but we judged it to be connected. conne&ed. At length on the ill of Auguft, about ten A. M. 1774. we got a fine breeze at E. S. E., which foon after veered to < A"ful|lj N. E., and we fleered for the N. W.fide of the iiland. Reach- Monday ing it about two P. M., we ranged the well coafl at one mile from more, on which the inhabitants appeared in feveral parts, and by ligns invited us to land. We continued to found without finding bottom, till we came before a fmall bay, or bending of the coafl, where, near a mile from fhore, we found thirty and twenty-two fathoms water, a fandy bottom. I had thoughts of anchoring here, but the wind almoft inflantly veered to N. W.; which being nearly on more, I laid this defign afide. Befides, I was unwilling to lofc the opportunity that now offered of getting to the South-eafl, in order firft to explore the lands which lay there. I therefore continued to range the coaft to the South, at about the fame diftancc from fhore; but we foon got out of foundings. About a league to the South of this bay, which hath about two miles extent, is another more extenfive. Towards the evening, the breeze began to abate, fo that it was fun-fet before we got the length of it. I intended not to flop here, and to ftand to the South under an eafy fail all night, but at eight o'clock, as we were fleering S, S. E., we faw a light ahead. Not knowing but it might be on fome low detached file, dangerous to approach while dark, we hauled the wind, and fpent the night {landing off and on, or rather driving to and fro; for wc had but very little wind. At fun-rife on the 2d, we faw no more land than the coafl Tuefday 2. we were upon ; but found that the currents had carried us fome miles to the North, and we attempted, to little purpofe, regain what we had loft. At noon wc were about a league from the coafl, which extended from S. S. E. to N. E. G 2 Latitude '774- Latitude obferved 180 46' S. In the afternoon, finding the c-J^]Ll^ fhip to drift, not only to the North, but in fhore alfo, and roefday 2. being yet to the South of the bay we palled the day before, I had thoughts of getting to an anchor before night, while we had it in our power to make choice of a place. With this view, having hoilled out two boats, one of them was fent ahead to tow the fhip; in the other Mr. Gilbert went, to found for anchorage. Soon after, the towing boat was fent to affifl him. So much time was fpent in founding this bay, that the fhip drove paft, which made it neceffary to call the boats on board to tow her off from the northern point. But this fervice was performed by a breeze of wind, which, that moment, fprung up at S. W.; fo that as the boats got on board, we hoifted them in, and then bore up for the North fide of the ifland, intending once more to try to get round by the Eaft. Mr. Gilbert informed me, that, at the South part of the bay, he found no foundings till clofe to a fleep flone beach, where he landed to tafle a flream of water he faw there, which proved to be fait. Some people were feen there, but they kept at a diftance. Farther down the coafl, that is to the North, he found twenty, twenty-four, and thirty fathoms, three-fourths of a mile, or a mile, from fhore, the bottom a fine dark fand. w-jref y On the 3d at fun-rife, we found ourfelves abreafl a lofty promontory on the S. E. fide of the ifland, and about three leagues from it. Having but little wind, and that from the South, right in our teeth, and being in want of fire-wood, I fent Lieutenant Clerke with two boats to a fmall iflot which lies off the promontory, to endeavour to get fome. In the mean time we continued to ply up with the fhip- but what we gained by our fails, wc loft by the current, At length, towards Augufl. Wednef. twards noon, we got a breeze at E. S. E. and E., with which 1774. we could lie up for the head; and foon after Mr, Clerke returned, having not been able to land, on account of an high furf on the fhore. They met with no people on the ifle; but faw a large bat, and fome birds9 and caught a water-make. At fix o'clock P. M. we got in with the land, under the N. W. fide of the head, where we anchored in fcventeen fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark fand, half a mile from fhore; the point of the head bearing N. 180 Eaft, diftant half a league ; the little iflot before mentioned N. E. by E. ■* E.,and the N. W. point of the bay N. 320 Weft. Many people appeared on the fhore, and fome attempted to fwim off to us; but having occafion to fend the boat ahead to found, they retired as fhe drew near them. This, however, gave us a favourable idea of them. On the 4th, at day-break, I went with two boats to ex- Thwiky 4. amine the coaft, to look for a proper landing-place, wood, and water. At this time, the natives began to affemble on the fhore, and by figns invited us to land. I went firft to a fmall beach, which is towards the head, where I found no good landing, on account of fome rocks which every wdiere lined the coaft. I, however, put the boat's bow to the more, and gave cloth, medals, &c. to fome people who were there. For this treatment they offered to haul the boats over the breakers to the fandy beach; which I thought a friendly offer, but had reafon afterwards to alter my opinion. When they found I would not do as they defired, they made figns for us to go down into the bay, which we accordingly did, and they ran along fhore abreaft of us, their number incrcafing prodigioufly. I put into the fhore in two or three places, bur, not liking the fituation, did not land. By this time, I believe, the J774- the natives conceived what I wanted, as thev directed me v—i—j round a rocky point, where, on a fine fandy beach, I fleppcd ay 4* out of the boat without wetting a foot, in the face of a vafl multitude, with only a green branch in my hand, which I had before got from one of them. I took but one man out of the boat with me, and ordered the other boat to He to a little diflance off. They received me with great courtefy and politenefs ; and would retire back from the boat on my making the leafl motion with my hand. A man, whom I took to be a chief, feeing this, made them form a femicircle round the boat's bow, and beat fuch as attempted to break through this order. This man I loaded with prefents, giving likewife to others, and afked by figns for frefh water, in hopes of feeing where they got it. The chief immediately fent a man for fome, who ran to a houfe, and prefently returned with a little in a bamboo; fo that I gained but little information by this. I next afked, by the fame means, for fomething to eat; and they as readily brought me a yam, and fome cocoa-nuts. In fhort, I was charmed with their behaviour; and the only thing which could give the leafl fufpicion was, that mofl of them were armed with clubs, fpears, darts, and bows and arrows. For this reafon I kept my eye continually upon the chief, and watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many figns to me to haul the boat up upon the fhore, and at laft flipped into the crowd, where I obferved him fpeak to feveral people, and then return to me, repeating figns to haul the boat up, and hefuating a good deal before he would receive fome fpike~ nails which I then offered him. This made me fufpect fomething was intended, and immediately I flepped into the boat, telling them by figns that I fhould foon return. But they were not for parting fo foon, and now attempted, by force Tbr Lti///////<>' /// to at V* A**A N & A canoe made feveral trips between us and the fhore, bringing ur ay 4' off each time a few cocoa-nuts, or a yam, and taking in exchange whatever wc gave him. Another was on the gangway when the great gun was fired, but I could not prevail on him to flay there long. Towards the evening, after the fhip was moored, I landed at the head of the harbour, in the S. E. corner, with a flrong party of men, without any oppofition being made by a great number of the natives who were affembled in two parties, the one on our right, the other on our left, armed with clubs, darts, fpears, flings and flones, bows and arrows, &c. After diflributing to the old people, (for we could diflinguifh no chief) and fome others, prefents of cloth, medals, &c. I ordered two cafks to be filled with water out of a pond about twenty paces behind the landing-place j giving the natives to underftand, that this was one of the articles we wanted. Be-fides water, wc got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which feemed to be in plenty on the trees ; but they could not be prevailed upon, to part with any of their weapons. Thefe they held in conftantreadinefs, and in the proper attitudes of offence and defence ; fo that little was wanting to make them attack us ; at leafl we thought fo, by their preiling fo much upon us, and in fpite of our endeavours to keep them otJ. Our early re-embarking probably difconcertcd their fcheme j and after that, they all retired. The friendly old man before mentioned, was in one of thefe parties ; and we judged, from his conduct, that his temper was pacific. C II A V. CHAP. V. An Intercourfe eflabliflhed with the Natives ; fome Account of the Ifland, and a Variety of Incidents that happened during our Stay at it. A S wc wanted to take in a large quantity both of wood 1774- tip 1 Augult. and water, and as, when I was on fhore, I had found <__v— it practicable to lay the fhip much nearer the landing-place than flie now was, which would greatly facilitate that work^ as well as over-awe the natives, and enable us better to cover and protect the working party on fhore j with this view, on the 6th, we went to work to tranfport the fhip to the Saturday 6„ place I defigned to moor her in. While we were about this, we obferved the natives affembling from all parts, and forming themfelves into two parties, as they did the preceding evening, one on each iide the landing-place, to the amount of fome thoufands, armed as before. A canoe, fometimes conducted by one, and at other times by two or three men, now and then, came off, bringing a few cocoa-nuts or plantains. Thefe they gave us without afking for any return; but I took care that they fhould always have fomething. Their chief defign feemed to be to invite us on fhore. One of thofe who came off was the old man, who had already ingratiated himfelf into our favour. I made him underftand, °y %ns, that they were to lay afidc their weapons, took thofe which were in the canoe and threw them overboard, and made him a prcfent of a large piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he underftood me, and made my requcft known »774- known tohis countrymen. For as foon as he landed, we obferv-ed him to go firfl to the one party, and then to the other; nor Saturday 6. was ^ cver ^tCYj feen by us with any thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in a canoe under the ftern, one of them brandifhing a club, with which he flruck the fhip's fide, and committed other afts of defiance, but at lafl offered to exchange it for a firing of beads, and fome other trifles. Thefe were fent down to him by a line; but the moment they were in his poffeffion, he and •his companions paddled off in all haflc, without giving the club or any thing elfe in return. This was what I expected, and indeed what I was not forry for, as I wanted an opportunity to fhew the multitude on fhore, the effecl: of our firearms, without materially hurting any of them. Having a fowling-piece loaded with fmall-fhot (N° 3.) I gave the fellow the contents; and, when they were above mufquet-mot off, 1 ordered fome of the mufquetoons, or wall-pieces, to be fired, which made them leap out of the canoe, keep under her off fide, and fwim with her afhore. This tranfaction feemed to make little or no impreffion on the people there. On the contrary, they began to halloo, and to make fport of it. After mooring the fhip, by four anchors, with her broad-fide to the landing-place, hardly mufquct-fhot off, and placing our artillery in fuch a manner as to command the whole harbour, I embarked with the marines, and a party of feamen, in three boats, and rowed in for the fhore. It hath been already mentioned, that the two divifions of the natives were drawn up on each fide the landing-place. They had left a fpace between them of about thirty or forty yards, in which were laid, to the mofl advantage, a few fmall bunches of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. Between thefe and and the water were {luck upright in the fand, for what 1774 purpofe I never could learn, four fmall reeds, about two feet 1—^Lj from each other, in a line at right angles to the (bore, where SaUrda* they remained for two or three days after. The old man before mentioned, and two more, flood by thefe things, inviting us, by figns, to land; but I had not forgot the trap I was fo near being caught in at the lafl iiland; and this looked fomething like it. We anfwered, by making figns for the two divifions to retire farther back, and give us more room. The old man feemed to defire them fo to do, but no more regard was paid to him than to us. More were continually joining them, and, except two or three old men, not one unarmed. In fhort, every thing confpircd to make us believe they meant to attack us as foon as wc /lionid he on fhore; the confequence of which was cafily mppoied;. many of them mufl have been killed and wounded, and wc fliould hardly have cfcaped unhurt; two things 1 equally wiflied to prevent. Since, therefore, they would not give us the room we required, I thought it was better to frighten them into it, than to oblige them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly ordered a mufquet to be fired over the party on our right, which was by far the flrongcil body j but the alarm it gave them was momentary. In an inflant they recovered themfelves, and began to difplay their weapons. One fellow fhewed us his backfide, in a manner which plainly conveyed his meaning. After this I ordered three or four more mufquets to be fired. This was the fignal for the fhip to fire a few great guns, which pi cfently dif-perfed them; and then we landed, and marked out the limits, on the right and left, by a line. Our old friend (lood his ground, though defcrted by his two companions, and I rewarded his confidence with a prefenr. The natives came gradually J7H* gradually to us, feemingly in a more friendly manner; fome k-S-Lj even without their weapons, but by far the greater! part Satmday 6. brought them ; and when we made figns to lay them down, they gave us to underftand that wc muft lay down ours firfl. Thus all parties flood armed. The prefents I made to the old people, and to fuch as feemed to be of confequence, had little effecl: on their conduct. They indeed climbed the cocoa-nut trees, and threw us down the nuts, without requiring any thing for them j but I took care that they mould always have fomewhat in return. I obferved that many were afraid to touch what belonged to us; and they feemed to have no notion of exchanging one thing for another. I took the old man (whole name wc now found to be Paowang) to the woods, and made him underftand, I wanted to cut down fome trees to take on board the fhip; cutting fome down at the fame time, which we put into one of our boats, together with a few fmall calks of water, with a view of letting the people fee what it was wc chiefly wanted. Paowang very readily gave his confent to cut wood ; nor was there any one who made the leafl objection. He only dcfircd the cocoa-nut trees might not be cut down. Matters being thus fettled, we embarked and returned on board to dinner, and, immediately after, they all difperfed. I never learnt that any one was hurt by our fhot, cither on this or the preceding day ; which was a very happy circum-llance. In the afternoon having landed again, we loaded the launch with water, and having made three hauls with the feinc, caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other fifh. It was fome time before any of the natives appeared, and not above twenty or thirty at laft,amongfl whom was our trully friend Paowang, who made us a prcfent of a fmall pig, which was the only one we got at this ifle, or that was offered us, 3 During Daring the night, tire volcano, which was about four 1774. miles to the Weft of us, vomited up vail quantities of fire «-^-i-r and fmoke, as it had alfo done the night before; and the *aturday6, flames were feen to rife above the hill which lay between us and it. At every eruption, it made a long rumbling noifc like that of thunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy fhower of rain, which fell at this time, feemed to in-creafe it; and the wind blowing from the fame quarter, the air was loaded with its afhes, which fell fo thick that every thing was covered with the duft. It was a kind of fine fand, or flone, ground or burnt to powder, and was exceedingly troublefome to the eyes. Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives began again Sunday7. to affemble near the watering-place, armed as ufual, but not in fuch numbers as at firft. After breakfaft, we landed, in order to cut wood and fill water. I found many of the iflanders much inclined to be friends with us, efpecially the old people; on the other hand, moft of the younger were daring and infolent, and obliged us to keep to our arms. I flaid till I faw no difturbance was like to happen, and then returned to the fhip, leaving the party under the command of Lieutenants Clerke and Edgcumbe. When they came on board to dinner, they informed me that the people continued to behave in the fame inconfiftcnt manner as in the morning; but more efpecially one man, whom Mr. Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, and believed he had flruck with a fwan-fhot. After that the others behaved with more discretion; and as foon as our people embarked they all retired. While we were fitting at dinner an old man came on board, looked into many parts of the fhip, and then went afhore again. Vol. II. I In In the afternoon, only a few of thofe who lived in the neighbourhood, with whom we were now upon a tolerable footing, made their appearance at the watering-place. Paowang brought us an axe which had been left by our people, either in the woods or on the beach, and found by fome of the natives. A few other articles were afterwards returned to us, which either they had ftolen, or we had loll by our negligence. So careful were they now not to offend us in this refpcct. Monday 8. Early the next morning, I fent the launch, protected by a party of marines in another boat, to take in bal-laft, which we wanted. This work was done before breakfafl; and after it, fhe was fent for wood and water, and with her the people employed in this fervice, under the protection of a ferjeant's guard, which was now thought fuffi-cient, as the natives feemed to be pretty well reconciled to us. I was told, that they afked our people to go home with them, on condition they flripped naked as they were. This fhews that they had no defign to rob them j whatever other they might have. Tuefday 9. On the 9th, I fent the launch for more ballafl, and the guard and wooders to the ufual place. With thefe I went myfclf, and found a good many of the natives collected together, whole behaviour, though armed, was courteous and obliging •, fo that there was no longer any occafion to mark out the limits by a line; they obferved them without this precaution. As it was neceffary for Mr. Wales's inflruments to remain on fhore all the middle of the day, the guard did not return to dinner, as they had done before, till relieved by others. When I came off, I prevailed on a young man, whofe name was Whii-a-gou, to accompany me. Before dinner 1774- Augult. Sunday 7. dinner I fhewed him every "part of the fhip; but did not ^774. obferve that any one thing fixed his attention a moment, or j—*—^ caufed in him the leafl furprife. He had no knowledge of goats, dogs, or cats, calling them all hogs (Booga or BoqgasJ. I made him a prefent of a dog and a bitch, as he fhewed a liking to that kind of animal. Soon after he came on board, fome of his friends followed in a canoe, and enquired for him, probably doubtful of his fafety. He looked out of the quarter-gallery, and having fpoken to them, they went afhore, and quickly returned with a cock, a little fugar-cane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as a prefent to me. Though he fat down with us, he did but jufl tafte our fait pork, but eat pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glafs of wine. After dinner I made him prefents, and then conducted him afhore. As foon as we landed, the youth and fome of his friends took me by the hand, with a view, as I underflood, to conduct me to their habitations. We had not gone far, before fome of them, for what reafon 1 know not, were unwilling I mould proceed; in confequence of which the whole company flopped; and, if I was not miftaken, a perfon was difpatched for fomething or other to give me ; for I was dc-fircd to fit down and wait, which I accordingly did. During this interval, feveral of our gentlemen palled us, at which they fhewed great uneafinefs, and importuned me fo much to order them back, that I was at laft obliged to comply, They were jealous of our going up the country, or even along the fhore of the harbour. While I was waiting here, our friend Paowang came with a prefent of fruit and roots, carried by about twenty men ; in order, as I fup-pofed, to make it appear the greater. One had a fmall I 2 bunch bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third a cocoa-nut, 8tc ; but two men might have carried the whole with eafe. This prefent was in return for fomething I had given him in the morning; however, I thought the leafl I could do now, was to pay the porters. After I had difpatched Paowang, I returned to Wha-a-gou and his friends, who were fliil for detaining me. They feemed to wait with great impatience for fomething, and to be unwilling and afhamed to take away the two dogs, without making me a return. As night was approaching, I prefTed to begone; with which they complied, and fo we parted. The preceding day, Mr. Forfler learnt from the people the proper name of the ifland, which they call Tannaj and this day I learnt from them the names of thofe in the neighbourhood. The one we touched at laft is called Erromango; the fmall ifle, which we difcovered the morning we landed here? Immer; the Table Iiland to the Eafl, difcovered at the fame time, Erronan or Footoona ; and an ifland which lies to the S. E. Annattom. All thefe iflands are to be feen from Tanna. They gave us to underfland, in a manner which I thought admitted of no doubt, that they eat human flefh, and that circumcifion was practifed amongfl them. They began the fubjecT: of eating human flefh, of their own accord, by afking us if we did; otherwife I fliould never have thought of afking them fuch a queflion. I have heard people argue, that no nation could be cannibals, if they had other flefh to eat, or did not want food; thus deriving the cuflom from neceflity. The people of this ifland can be under no fuch neceflity ; they have fine pork and fowls, and plenty of roots and fruits. 4 But AND ROUND THE WORLD. 61 But fince we have not actually feen them eat human flefh, it 1774. •Ill- Auguft. will admit of doubt with fome, whether they are cannibals. <-8—-> J Tucfday 9* When I got on board, I learnt that, when the launch was on the weft fide of the harbour taking in ballaft, one of the men employed on this work, had fcalded his fingers in taking a ftone up out of fome water. This circumftance produced the difcovery of feveral hot fprings, at the foot of the clifF, and rather below high-water mark. This day Mr. Wales, and two or three of the officers, advanced a little, for the firfl time, into the ifland. They met with a fmall ftraggling village, the inhabitants of which treated them with great civility ; and the next morning Mr- Wc:lnefd»lo* Forfter and his party, and fome others, made another ex-curfion inland. They met with feveral fine plantations of plantains, fugar-canes, yams, &c.; and the natives were courteous and civil. Indeed, by this time, the people, efpecially thofe in our neighbourhood, were fo well reconciled to us, that they fhewed not the leaft diflike at our rambling about in the fkirts of the woods, mooting, 8cc. In the afternoon, fome boys having got behind thickets, and having thrown two or three flones at our people who were cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers prefent on duty. Being afhore at the time, I was alarmed at hearing the report of the mufqucts, and feeing two or three boys run out of the wood. When I knew the caufe, I was much difpleafed at fo wanton an ufe being made of our fire-arms, and took meafures to prevent it for the future. Wind foutherly, with heavy fhowers of rain. During the night, and alfo all the nth, the volcano was Thurfday n. exceedingly troublcfomc, and made a terrible noife, throwing up prodigious columns of fire and frnokc at each ex- plofionr 1774* plofion, which happened every three or four minutes; and, atone time, great flones were feen high in the air. Befides Thurfday u. ^ neceffarv Work of wooding and watering, we flruck the main-top-marl to fix new trefllc-trees and back-flays. Mr. Forflcr and his party went up the hill on the well fide of the harbour, where he found three places from whence fmoke of a fulphureous fmcll iffucd, through cracks or fiffures in the earth. The ground about thefe was exceedingly hot, and parched or burnt, and they feemed to keep pace with the volcano; for, at every explofion of the latter, the quantity of fmoke or fleam in thefe was greatly in-creafed, and forced out fo as to rife in fmall columns, which we faw from the fhip, and had taken for common fires made by the natives. At the foot of this hill are the hot fprings before mentioned. In the afternoon, Mr. Forfler having begun his botanical rcfcarchcs on the other fide of the harbour, fell in with our friend Paowang's houfe, where he faw moft of the articles I had given him, hanging on the adjoining trees and bufhes, as if they were not worthy of being under his roof. Friday 12. On the I2th, fome of the officers accompanied Mr. Forflcr to the hot places he had been at the preceding day. A thermometer placed in a little hole made in one of them, rofe from 80, at which it flood in the open air, to 170. Several other parts of the hill emitted fmoke or fleam all the day, and the volcano was unufually furious, infomuch that the air was loaded with its allies. The rain which fell at this time, was a compound of water, fand, and earth; fo that it properly might be called fhowers of mire. Whichever way the wind was, we were plagued with the afhes; unlefs it blew very flrong indeed from the oppofite direction. Not- 1 Dniwii frouiNafure If W.II«il*s v r h w if n rri:if)^ -< of tanna Knjjrnv'd l»v W.W.x.lMi \ " XJLLX 02 41 TM Notwithstanding the natives feemed well enough fatisfied with the few expeditions we had made in the neighbourhood, they were unwilling we mould extend them farther. As a proof of this, fome undertook to guide the gentlemen when they were in the country, to a place where they might fee the mouth of the volcano. They very readily embraced the offer ; and were conducted down to the harbour, before they perceived the cheat. The 13th, wind at N. E., gloomy weather. The only thing worthy of note this day, was, that Paowang being at dinner with us on board, I took the opportunity to fhew him feveral parts of the fhip, and various articles, in hopes of finding out fomething which they might value, and be induced to take from us in exchange for refrefhments ; for what we got of this kind was trifling. But he looked on every thing that was flicwn him with the utmofl indifference; nor did he take notice of any one thing except a wooden fand-box, which he fceraed to admire, and turned two or three times over in his hand. . Next morning, after breakfaft, a party of us fct out for the country, to try if we could not get a nearer and better view of the Volcano. We went by the way of one of thofe hot fmoking places before mentioned, and dug a hole in the hotteft part, into which a thermometer of Fahrenheit's construction was put ; and the mercury prefently rofe to ioo°. It remained in the hole two minutes and a half without either rifing or falling. The earth about this place was a kind of white clay, had a fulphureous fmell, and was foft and wet, the furface only excepted, over which was fpread a thin dry cruft,tnat had upon it fome fulphur, and a vitriolic fubftancc, 8 tafling J774- tatting like alum. The place afFecled by the heat was not «_1,-! above eight or ten yards fquare ; and near it were fome fig- Sunday fg. trees, which fpread their branches over a part of it, and feemed to like their fituation. We thought that this extraordinary heat was caufed by the fleam of boiling water, flrongly impregnated with fulphur. I was told that fome of the other places were larger than this; though we did not go out of the road to look at them, but proceeded up the hill through a country fo covered with trees, fhrubs, and plants, that the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, which feem to have been planted here by Nature, were in a manner choked up. Here and there, we met with an houfe, fome few people, and plantations. Thefe latter we found in different Hates; fome of long Handing; others lately cleared ; and fome only clearing, and before any thing had been planted. The clearing a piece of ground for a plantation, feemed to be a work of much labour, confidering the tools they had to work with, which, though much inferior to thofe at the Society Ifles, are of the fame kind. Their method is, however, judicious, and as expeditious as it can well be. They lop off the fmall branches of the large trees, dig under the roots, and there burn the branches and fmall fhrubs and plants which they root up. The foil, in fome parts, is a rich black mould ; in other parts, it feemed to be compofed of decayed vegetables, and of the allies the volcano fends forth throughout all its neighbourhood. Happening to turn out of the common path, wc came into a plantation where we found a man at work, who, cither out of good-nature, or to get us the fooner out of his territories, undertook to be our guide. We followed him accordingly; but had not gone far before wc came to the j ui idlion of two roads, in one of which flood another man with a fling and a flonc, which he thought proper to lay down down when a mufquet was pointed at him. The attitude in * 771--which we found him, the ferocity appearing in his looks, *--;.—j .... Sunday 14. and his behaviour after, convinced us that he meant to defend the path he flood in. lie, in fome mcafure, gained his point; for our guide took the other road, and we followed ; but not without fufpecting he was leading us out of the common way. The other man went with us likewife, counting us feveral times over, and hallooing, as we judged, for afliflancej for we were prefently joined by two or three more, among whom was a young woman with a club in her hand. By thefe people wc were conducted to the brow of a hill, and fhewn a road, leading down to the harbour, which they wanted us to take. Not choofing to comply, we returned to that we had left, which we purfued alone, our guide refufing to go with us. After afcending another ridge, as thickly covered with wood as thofe we had come over, we faw yet other hills between us and the volcano, which feemed as far off as at our firfl fetting out. This difcouraged us from proceeding farther, efpecially as we could get no one to be our guide. We, therefore, came to a refolution to return ; and had but juft put this in execution when we met between twenty and thirty people, whom the fellow before mentioned had collected together, with a defign, as we judged, to oppofe our advancing into the country; but as they faw us returning they fullered us to pafs unmolefled. Some of them put us into the right road, accompanied us down the hill, made us flop by the way, to entertain us with cocoa-nuts, plantains, and fugar-cane ; and what wc did not eat on the fpot, they brought down the hill with us* Thus we found thefe people hofpitable, civil, and good-natured, when not prompted to a contrary conduct by jcaloufy; a conduct I cannot tell how to blame them for, efpecially Vol. H. K when i774» when I confider the light in which they mufl view us. It ^uguft. ^ impoffible for them to know our real defign ; we enter Sunday r4. tjiejr ^ons witnout their daring to oppofe j we endeavour to land in their country as friends, and it is well if this fuc-ceeds j we land, neverthelefs, and maintain the footing we have got, by the fuperiority of our fire-arms. Under fuch circumflances, what opinion are they to form of us ? Is it not as reafonable for them to think that we come to invade their country, as to pay them a friendly vifit ? Time, and fome acquaintance with us, can only convince them of the latter. Thefe people are yet in a rude flate; and, if we may judge from circumflances and appearances, are frequently at war, not only with their neighbours, but among themfclves; consequently mufl be jealous of every new tace. I will allow there are fome exceptions to this rule to be found in this fea ; but there are few nations who would willingly fuffer vifitcrs like us to advance far into their country. Before this excurfion fome of us had been of opinion, that thefe people were addicted to an unnatural paflion, becaufe they had endeavoured to entice fome of our men into the woods ; and, in particular, I was told, that one who had the care of Mr. Forfler's plant bag, had been, once or twice, attempted. As the carrying of bundles, &c. is the office of the women in this country, it had occurred to me, and I was not fingular in this, that the natives might miflake him, and fome others, for women. My conjecture was fully verified this day. For this man, who was one of the party, and carried the bag as ufual, following me down the hill, by the words which 1 underflood of the conversation of the natives, and by their actions, I was well affined that they confidered him as a female; till, by fome means, they difcovered their miflake, miflake, on which they cried out, Erramangc ! Erramange! ^77f{ It's a man! It's a man! The thine was fo palpable that every <— ° Sunday 14. one was obliged to acknowledge, that they had before miftaken his fex; and that, after they were undeceived, they feemed not to have the leafl notion of what we had fufpected. This circumflance will fhew how liable we are to form wrong conjectures of things, among people whofe language we are ignorant of. Had it not been for this difcovery, 1 make no doubt that thefe people would have been charged with this vile cullom. In the evening I took a walk, with fome of the gentlemen, into the country on the other fide of the harbour, where we had very different treatment from what we had met with in the morning. The people we now vifitcd, among whom was our friend Paowang, being better acquainted with us, fhewed a readinefs to oblige us in every thing in their power. We came to the village which had been viiited on the 9th. It confifled of about twenty houfes, the moft of which need no other defcription than comparing them to the roof of a thatched houfe in England, taken off the walls and placed on the ground. Some were open at both ends ; others partly clofed with reeds; and all were covered with palm thatch. A few of them were thirty or forty feet long, and fourteen or fix-teenbroad. Befides thefe, they have other mean hovels, which, I conceived, were only to fleep in. Some of thefe flood in a plantation, and I was given to underftand, that in one of them lay a dead corpfe. They made figns that defcribed fleep, or death; and circumflances pointed out the latter. Curious to fee all I could, I prevailed on an elderly man to go with me to the hut, which was feparated from the others by a reed fence, built quite round it at the diftance of four K 2 or J774- or five feet. The entrance was by a fpace in the fence, made fo <__v—^ low as to admit one to ftep over. Trie two fides and one end of Sun ay i4. ^e were clofcd, or built, up in the fame manner, and with the fame materials, as the roof. The other end had been open, but was now well clofed up with mats, which I could not prevail on the man to remove, or fuffer me to do it. There hung at this end of the hut a matted bag or bafket, in which was a piece of roafled yam, and fome fort of leaves, all quite frefh. I had a flrong defire to fee the infide of the hut, but the man was peremptory in refufmg this, and even fhewed an unwillingnefs to permit me to look into the bafket. He wore round his neck, faliened to a firing, two or three locks of human hair j and a woman prefent had feveral about her neck. I offered fomething in exchange for them ; but they gave me to underftand they could not part with them, as it was the hair of the perfon who lay in the hut. Thus 1 was led to believe that thefe people difpofe of their dead ia a manner fimilar to that of Otaheite* The fame cuflom of wearing the hair is obferved by the people of that ifland, and alfo by the New Zealanders. The former make Tamau of the hair of their deceafed friends, and the latter make ear-rings, and necklaces of their teeth. Near rnofl of their large houfes were fixed upright in the ground, the flems of four cocoa-nut trees, in a fquare pofi-tion about three feet from each other. Some of our gentlemen, who firfl faw them, were inclined to believe they were thus placed on a religious account; but I was now fatisfied that it was for no other purpofe but to hang cocoa-nuts on to dry. For when I afked, as well as I could, the ufe of them, a man took me to one, loaded with cocoa-nuts from the bottom to the top; and no words could have informed me better. Their fituation is well chofen for this ufe, as moft moft of their large houfes are built in an open airy place, or 1774 it TO.- Augurt where the wind has a free paflage, from whatever direction i-- . „ .r • 1 Sunday j it blows. Near moft, if not all of them, is a large tree, or two, whofe fpreading branches afford an agreeable retreat from the fcorching fun. This part of the ifland was well cultivated, open and airy ; the plantations were laid out by line, abounding with plantains, fugar-canes, yams, and other roots, and flocked with fruit trees. In our walk we met with our old friend Paowang, who, with fome others, accompanied us to the water fide, and brought with them, as a prefent, a few yams and cocoa-nuts. On the 15th, having finifhed wooding and watering, a few Monday hands only were on fhore making brooms, the reft being employed on board, fetting up the rigging, and putting the fhip in a condition for fea. Mr. Forfter, in his botanical excurfion this day, fhot a pigeon, in the craw of which was a wild nutmeg. He took fome pains to find the tree, but his endeavours were without fuccefs. In the evening a party of us walked to the eaftern fea-fhore, in order to take the bearing of Annattom, and Erronan or Foottoona. The horizon proved fo hazy that I could fee neither; but one of the natives gave me, as I afterwards found, the true direction of them. We obferved that in all, or moft of their fugar plantations, were dug holes or pits, four feet deep, and five or fix in diameter; and on our inquiring their ufe, we were given to underftand, that they caught rats in them. Thefe animals, which arc very deflructive to the canes, are here in great plenty. The canes, I obferved, were planted as thick as poffible round the edge of thefe pits, fo that the Eats in coming at them are the more liable to tumble in. Next 1774- Next morning we found the tiller fprung in the rudder \__,—j head, and, by lome llrange neglect, wc had not a fpare one Tuefday 16- on board, which we were ignorant of till now it was wanting. I knew but of one tree in the neighbourhood fit for this purpofe, which I fent the carpenter on fhore to look at, and an officer, with a party of men, to cut it down, provided he could obtain leave of the natives ; if not, he was ordered to acquaint me. He underflood that no one had any objection, and fet the people to work accordingly. But as the tree was large, this required fome time; and, before it was down, word was brought me that our friend Paowang was not plcafed. Upon this I gave orders to defifl, as we found that, by fcarfing a piece to the inner end of the tiller, and letting it farther into the rudder head, it would flill perform its office. But, as it was neceffary to have a fpare one on board, I went on fhore, fent for Paowang, made him a prefent of a dog and a piece of cloth, and then explained to him that our great fleering paddle was broken, and that I wanted that tree to make a new one. It was eafy to fee how well pleafed every one prefent was, with the means I took to obtain it. With one voice they gave their confent, Paowang joining his alfo, which he perhaps could not have done without the others; for I do not know that he had either more property, or more authority than the reft. This point being obtained, I took our friend on board to dinner, and after it was over, went with him afhore, to pay a vifit to an old chief, who was faid to be king of the ifland; which was a doubt with me. Paowang took little or no notice of him. I made him a prefent, after which he immediately went away, as if he had got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the title of Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry open countenance. He wore round his waift a broad red red and white checquered belt, the materials and manufacture of which feemed the fame as that of Otahcite cloth ; but this was hardly a mark of diftinction. He had with him a fon, not lefs than forty-five or fifty years of age. A great number of people were at this time at the landing-place ; moft of them from diflant parts. The behaviour of many was friendly; while others were daring and infolent, which 1 thought proper to put up with, as our flay was nearly at an end. On the 17th, about ten o'clock, t went afhore, and found in the crowd old Geogy and his fon, who foon made me underftand that they wanted to dine with me; and accordingly I brought them, and two more, on board. They all called them Areekees (or kings); but I doubt if any of them had the leafl pretentions to that title over the whole ifland. It had been remarked, that one of thefe kings had not authority enough to order one of the people up into a cocoa-nut tree, to bring him down fome nuts. Although he fpoke to feveral, he was at laft obliged to go himfclf, and, by way of revenge, as it was thought, left not a nut on the tree, taking what he wanted himfelf, and giving the reft to fome of our people. When I got them on board, I went with them all over the fhip, which they viewed with uncommon furprife and attention. We happened to have for their entertainment a kind of pie or pudding made of plantains, and fome fort of greens which we had got from one of the natives. On this, and on yams, they made a hearty dinner; for, as to the fait beef and pork, they would hardly taflc them. In the afternoon, having made each of them a prefent of a hatchet, a fpike-nail, and fome medals, I conducted them afhore. 2 Mr, 1774- Mr. Forfter and I then went over to the other fide of the ^ Auguti.^ harDOur> and, having tried, with Fahrenheit's thermometer, Wcdncf. 17. tjie ^cad of one of the hot fprings, we found that the mercury rofe to 191°. At this time the tide was up within two or three feet of the fpring, fo that we judged it might, in fome degree, be cooled by it. We were miftaken, however; thurfday 18. ^or' on repeating the experiment next morning, when the tide was out, the mercury rofe no higher than 1870; but, at another fpring, where the water bubbled put of the fand from under the rock at the S. W. corner of the harbour, the mercury, in the fame thermometer, rofe to 202°^, which is but little colder than boiling water. The hot places before mentioned are from about three to four hundred fect perpendicular above thefe fprings, and on theflopeof the fame ridge with the volcano; that is, there are no vallies between them but fuch as are formed in the ridge itfelf; nor is the volcano on the higheft part of the ridge, but on the S. E. fide of it. This is, I have been told, contrary to the general opinion of philofophers, who fay that volcanos muft be on the fumrnits of the higheft hills. So far is this from being the cafe on this iiland, that fome of its hills are more than double the height of that on which the volcano is, and clofe to it. To thefe remarks I muft add, that, in wet or moift weather, the volcano was moft violent. There feems to be room for fome philofbphical reafoning on thefe phenomena of nature; but not having any talent that way, I muft content myfelf with ftating fads as 1 found them, and leave the caufes to men of more abilities. The tiller was now fmifhed; but, as the wind was unfavour-Fr.day i9. fof faiiing? the gUar<| was fent on fliorc on the 19th, as be- fore, and a party of men to cut up and bringoffthe remainder of the tree from which wc had got the tiller. Having nothing elfc $ to AND ROUND THE WORLD. 7% to do, I went on fhore with them, and finding a good number *77+- ' O O , Augult. or the natives collected about the landing-place as ufual, I dif- p.—t tributed among them all the articles I had with me, and then n' 5 ' "went on board for more. In lefs than an hour I returned, jufl as our people were getting fome large logs into the boat. At the fame time four or five of the natives fleppcd forward to fee what we were about, and as we did not allow them to come within certain limits, unlcfs to pafs along the beach, the centry ordered them back, which they readily complied with. At this time, having my eyes fixed on them, I obferved the centry prefent his piece (as I thought at thefe men) and was jufl going to reprove him for it, becaufe I had obferved that, whenever this was done, fome of the natives would hold up their arms, to let us fee they were equally ready. But I was aflonimcd beyond meafure when the centry fired, for I faw not the leafl caufe. At this outrage moft of the people fled: it was only a few I could prevail on to remain. As they ran off, I obferved one man to fall j and he was immediately lifted up by two others, who took him into the water, warned his wound, and then led him off. Prefently after, fome came and defcribed to me the nature of his wound j and, as I found he was not carried far, I fent for the furgeon. As foon as he arrived, I went with him to . the man, whom we found expiring. The ball had flruck his left arm, which was much fhattered, and then entered his body by the fhort-ribs, one of which was broken. The rafcal who fired, pretended that a man had laid an arrow acrofs his bow, and was going to fhoot at him, fo that he apprehended himfelf in danger. But this was no more than they had always done, and with no other view than to fhew they were armed as well as wc; at leafl I have reafon to think fo, as they never went farther. What made this inci-Vol. II. L dent > ^1774- dent the more unfortunate, was, it not appearing to be the «_ "*V -* -* man who bent the bow, that was mot, but one who flood Friday 19. by him. This affair threw the natives into the utmofl con-flernation; and the few that were prevailed on to flay, ran to the plantations and brought cocoa-nuts, &c. which they laid down at our feet. So foon were thefe daring people humbled! When I went on board to dinner they all retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, amongfl whom were Paowang and Wha-a-gou. I had not feen this young man fince the day he dined on board. Both he and Paowang promifed to bring me fruit, Sec. the next morning, but our early departure put it out of their power. C B A P. CHAP. VI. Departure from Ta7tna, with fome Account of its Inhabitants, their Manners and Arts. D URIN G the night the wind had veered round to S. E. ,774. As this was favourable for getting out of the harbour, . agu * i at four o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we began to un- Saturday20* moor, and at eight, having weighed our laft anchor, put to fea. As foon as we were clear of the land, I brought to, waiting for the launch which was left behind to take up a kedge anchor and hawfer we had out, to eaft by. About day-break a noife was heard in the woods, nearly abreaft of us, on the call fide of the harbour, not unlike finging of pfalms. I was told that the like had been heard at the fame time every morning, but it never came to my knowledge till now, when it was too late to learn the occafion of it. Some were of opinion, that at the eaft point of the harbour (where we obferved, in coming in, fome houfes, boats, &c.) was fomething facrcd to religion, becaufe fome of our people had attempted to go to this point, and were prevented by the natives. I thought, and do flill think, it was only owing to a defire they fhewed, on every occafion, of fixing bounds to our excur-fions. So far as we had once been, we might go again; but not farther, with their confent. But by encroaching a little every time, our country expeditions were infenfibly extended without giving the leafl umbrage. Befidcs, thefe morning ceremonies, whether religious or not, were not performed down at L 2 that 1774-- that point, but in a part where fome of our people had <_*_» been daily. »...ti:i *Ly 20. I cannot fay what might be the true caufe of thefe people fhewing fuch diilike to om' going up into their country. It might be owing to a naturally jealous dif-pofition, or perhaps to their being accuftomed to hoflife vifits from their neighbours, or quarrels among thcmfelves. Circumflances feemed to mew that fuch mufl frequently happen ; for we obferved them very expert. in,arms, and well accullomed to them; feldom or never travelling without them. It is pofliblc all this might be on our account; but I hardly think it. We never gave them the leafl molcllation, nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the wood and water, without firfl. having obtained their confcnL The very cocoa-nuts, banging over the heads of the. workmen, were as fafe as thofe in the middle.of the ifland. It happened rather fortunately, that there were fo many cocoar nut trees, near the fkirts of the harbour, which feemed.not to be private property ; fo that we could generally prevail on the natives to bring us fome of thefe nuts, when nothing would induce them to bring, any out of the country. We were not wholly without refrefhments; for befides the fifh, which our feine now and then provided us with, we pn> cured daily fome fruits or roots from the natives, though but little in proportion to what we could confume. The reafon why wc got. no more might be our having nothing to give them in exchange, which they thought valuable. They had not the leafl knowledge of iron ; confequcntly, nails and iron tools, beads, &c. which had fo great a run at the more eaflcrn ifles, were of no confidcration here; and cloth can be of no ufe to people who go naked.. The The produce of this ifland is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa- J<77£ Buts, a fruit like a nectarine, yams, tarra, a fort of potatoc, »- fugar-cane, wild figs, a fruit like an orange, which is not eatable, and fome other fruit and nuts whofe names I have not. Nor have I any doubt that the nutmeg before mentioned was the produce of this ifland. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains are neither fo plentiful nor fo good as at Otahcite ; on the other hand, fugar-canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but of fuperior quality, and much larger. We got one of the latter which weighed fifty-fix pounds, every ounce of which was good. Hogs did not feem to be fcarce; but we faw not many fowl's. Thefe are the only domeflic animals they have. Land birds are not more numerous than at Otaheitc, and the other iflands; but we met with fome fmall birds, with a very beautiful plumage, which we had never feen before. There is as great a variety of trees and plants here, as at any ifland we touched at, where our botanifts had time to examine. I believe thefe. people live chiefly on the produce of the land, and that the fea contributes but little to their fublllfencc. Whether this arifesfrom the coafl not abounding with fifh, or from their being bad fiffiermcn, I know not; both caufes perhaps concur. I never faw any fort of fifhing-tackle amongfl them, nor any one out fifliing, except on the flioals, or along the mores of the harbour, where they would watch to flrike with a dart fuch fifh as came within their reach ■, and in this they were expert. They feemed much to admire our catching fifh with the feine; and, I believe, were not well pleafed with it at laft. I doubt not, they have other methods of catching fifh befides flriking them. We underilood that the little ifle of Junner was chiefly inhabited by fiffiermcn,and that the canoes we frequently faw t pafsy, '774« pafs, to and from that ifle and the eafl point of the harbour, y. were fifhing canoes. Thefe canoes were of unequal fizes; fome thirty feet long, two broad, and three deep j and they are compofed of feveral pieces of wood clumfily fewed together with bandages. The joints ai;c covered on the outfide by a thin batten champhered off at the edges, over which the bandages pafs. They are navigated either by paddles or fails. The fail is lattecn, extended to a yard and boom, and hoifled to a fhort mafl. Some of the large canoes have two fails, and all of them outriggers. At firfl wc thought the people of this ifland, as well as thofe of Erromango, were a race between the natives of the Friendly Iflands and thofe of Mallicollo; but a little acquaintance with them convinced us that they had little or no affinity to either, except it be in their hair, which is much! like what the people of the latter ifland have. The general colours of it are black and brown, growing to a tolerable length, and very crifp and curly. They fcparate it into fmall locks, which they woold or cue round with the rind of a flen-der plant, down to about an inch of the ends ; and, as the hair grows, the woolding is continued. Each of thefe cues or locks is fomewhat thicker than common whip-cord ; and they look like a parcel of fmall firings hanging down from the crown of their heads. Their beards, which are flrong and bufhy, arc generally fhort. The women do not wear their hair fo, but cropped ; nor do the boys, till they approach manhood. Some few men, women, and children, were feen, who had hair like ours ; but it was obvious that thefe were of another nation ; and, I think, we undcrilood they came from Erronan. It is to this ifland they afcribc one of the two languages which they fpeak, and which is nearly, if not exactly, acTly, the fame as that fpoken at the Friendly Iflands. It is therefore more than probable that Erronan was peopled is—^—j from that nation, and that, by long intercourfe with Tanna and the other neighbouring iflands, each hath learnt the other's language, which they ufe indifcriminately. The other language which the people of Tanna fpeak, and, as we underflood, thofe of Erromango and Annatom, is properly their own. It is different from any we had before met with, and bears no affinity to that of Mallicollo; fo that, it mould fecm, the people of thefe iflands arc a diflincT: nation of themfelves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. were names entirely unknown to them j they even knew nothing of Sandwich Ifland, which is much the nearer. I took no fmall pains to know how far their geographical knowledge extended j and did not find that it exceeded the limits of their horizon. Thefe people are of the middle fize, rather Gender than otherwife ; many are little, but few tall or ttouL ; the mod of them have good features, and agreeable countenances; are, like all the tropical race, active and nimble ; and ni to excel in the ufe of arms, but not to be fond or . l1 They never would put a hand to affile in any work we wu;^ carrying on, which the people of the other iflands ufed to-delight in. But what I judge moll from, is their making the females do the rnofl laborious work, as if >;icy were pack-horfes. I have feen a woman carrying a I irge bundle on her back, or a child on her back and a bundle under her arm, and a fellow flrutting before her with nothing but a club \ or fpear, or fome fuch thing. We have frequently obier/ved i little troops of women pafs, to and fro, along the beach, , laden with fruit and roots, efcorted by a party of men under arms; though, now and then, we have feen a man carry a - burden burden at the fame time, but not often. T know not on Augult. <-1-what account this was done, nor that an armed troop was neceflary. At firft, we thought they were moving out of the neighbourhood with their efTccls ; but wc afterwards faw them both carry out, and bring in, every day. 1 cannot fay the women are beauties; but I think them handfome enough for the men, and too handfbme for the ufe that is made of them. Both fexes are of a very dark colour, but not black; nor have they the leafl characteriflic of the negro about them. They make themfclves blacker than they really are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour of black lead. They alfo ufe another fort which is red, and a third fort brown, or a colour between red and black. All thefe, but efpecially the firfl, they lay on, with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the neck, moulders, and bread. The men wear nothing but a belt, and the wrapping leaf as at Mallicollo *. The women have a kind of petticoat made of the filaments of the plantain tree, flags, or fome fuch thing, which reaches below the knee. Both fexes wear ornaments, fuch as bracelets, ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets. The bracelets are chiefly worn by the men ; fome made of fea-fhells, and others of thofe of the cocoa-nut. The men alfo wear amulets ; and thofe of mod value being made of agreenifh (lone, the green flone of New Zealand is valued by them for this purpofe. Necklaces are chiefly ufed by the women, and made moflly of fhclls. Ear-rings are common to both fexes, and thofe valued moll are made of tortoife-lhell. Some of our people having got fome at the Friendly Iflands, brought it to a good market here, where it was of more value than any thing we * Sec page 34. had N?XLT. woman of the island of tanna *"/'{'/t'r/?,;.(, r>/t77jj,y w:straA^n m <¥<■»• *SVm/ Sfotjfam*, a*ut '/'/„>:' Cad*&m M*8front? Loruto had befides ; from which I conclude that thefe people catch but few turtle, though I faw one in the harbour, jufl as wc were getting under fail. 1 obferved that, towards the latter end of our itay, they began to afk for hatchets, and large nails; fo that it is likely they had found that iron is more fer-viceablc than flone, bone, or fhclls, of which all their toob i have feen are made. Their flone hatchets, at lealt all tltoft I faw, are not in the fhape of adzes, as at the other iflandi, but more like an ax, in this form . In the helve, which is pretty thick, is made a hole into which the flone is fixed. Thefe people, befides the cultivation of ground, have few other arts worth mentioning. They know how to make a coarfc kind of matting, and a coarfe cloth of the bark of a tree, which is ufed chiefly for belts. The workmanfhip of their canoes, I have before obferved, is very rude ; and their arms, with which they take the moll pains in point of neatnefs, come far fhort of fome others we had feen. Their weapons are clubs, fpears or darts, bows and arrows, and flones. The clubs are of three or four kinds, and from three to five feet long. They feemto place moll dependence on the darts, which are pointed with three bearded edges. In throwing them they make ufe of a becket, that is a piece of fliff plaited cord about fix inches long, with an eye in one end and a knot at the other. The eye is fixed on the fore-finger of the right hand, and the other end is hitched round the dart, where it is nearly on an equipoife. They hold the dart between the thumb and remaining fingers, which ferve only to give it direction, the velocity being communicated by the becket and fore-finger. The former flies o!f Vol, II. M from 1774- from the dart the inflant its velocity becomes greater than i~ -v- that of the hand, but it remains on the finger ready to be ufed again. With darts they kill both birds and fifh, and are fure of hitting a mark, within the com pafs of the crown of a hat, at the diftance of eight or ten yards ; but, at double that diflance, it is chance if they hit a mark the fize of a man's body, though they will throw the weapon fixty or feventy yards. They always throw with all their might, let the diftance be what it will. Darts, bows and arrows are to them what mufqucts are to us. The arrows are made of reeds pointed with hard wood : fome arc bearded and fome not* and thofe for mooting birds have two, three, and fometimes four points. The flones they ufe are, in general, the branches of coral rocks from eight to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch-and-half in diameter. I know not if they employ them as miflive weapons; almofl every one of them carries a club, and befides that, either darts, or a bow and arrows, but never both : thofe who had flones kept them generally in their belts. I cannot conclude this account of their arms without adding an entire paffage out of Mr. Wales's journal. As this gentleman was continually on fhore amongfl them, he had a better opportunity of feeing what they could perform, than any of us. The paffage is as follows : 11 I mufl con-" fefs I have been often led to think the feats which Homer " reprcfents his heroes as performing with their fpears, a " little too much of the marvellous to be admitted into an *' heroic poem; I mean when confined within the flreight " flays of Ariftotle. Nay, even fo great an advocate for him " as Mr. Pope, acknowledges them to be furprlfing. But " fince I have feen what thefe people can do with their " wooden <( wooden fpcars, and them badly pointed, and not of a " very hard nature, I have not the lead exception to any one " paffage in that great poet on this account. But, if I fee 11 fewer exceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in " him; as he has, I think, fcarce an action, circumflance, " or defcription of any kind whatever, relating to a fpear, " which I have not feen and recognifed among thefe people;, '* as their whirling motion, and whiffling noife, as they fly; " their quivering motion, as they flick in the ground when c< they fall; their meditating their aim, when they are go-*' ing to throw; and their making them in their hand as *' they go along, 8cc. &x." I know no more of their cookery, than that it confifls of roafting and baking; for they have no vefTel in which water can be boiled. Nor do I know that they have any other liquor but water and the juice of the cocoa-nut. We are utter flrangers to their religion; and but little acquainted with their government. They feem to have chiefs arnong them ; at leafl fome were pointed out to us by that title ; but, as I before obferved, they appeared to have vcrv little authority over the reft of the people. Old Geogy was the only one the people were ever feen to take the leafl notice of; but whether this was owing to high rank or old age, 1 cannot fay. On feveral occafions I have feen the old men refpected and obeyed. Our friend Paowang was fo; and yet 1 never heard him called chief, and have many reafons to believe that he had not a right to any more authority than many of his neighbours, and few, if any, were bound to obey him, or any other perfon In our neighbourhood ; for if there had been fuch a one, we certainly fhould, by fome means, have known it. I named the harbour Port Rcfolu- M 2 tion, tion, after the fhip, (lie being the firfl which ever entered it. It is fituated on the North fide of the mofl eaflcrn point of the ifland, and about E. N. E. from the volcano ; in the latitude of 190 32' 25"-- South, and in the longitude of 1690 44' 35" Eafl. It is no more than a little creek running in S. by W. ■*■ W. three quarters of a mile, and is about half that in breadth. A fhoal of fand and rocks, lying on the Eafl fide, makes it flill narrower. The depth of water in the harbour is from fix to three fathoms, and the bottom is fand and mud. No place can be more convenient for taking in wood and water; for both are clofe to the fhore. The water flunk a little after it had been a few days on board, but it; afterwards turned fweet ; and, even when it was at the word, the tin machine would, in a few hours, recover a whole cafk, This is an excellent contrivance for fwcetening water at fea, and is well known in the navy. Mr. Wales, from whom I had the latitude and longitude, found the variation of the needle to be y° 14' 12" Eafl, and the dip of its South end 450 27. He alfo obferved the time of high water, on the full and change days, to be about 5h 45"; and the tide to rife and fall three feet. CHAP. AVN D ROUND THE WOIJLD. 85 CHAP. VIL The Survey of the Iflands continued, and a more particular Defcription of them. AS foon as the boat-s were hoifted in, we made fail, and 1774. flretched to the caflward, with a frefh gale at S. E., in ^J^U-j order to have a nearer view of Erronan, and to fee if there Saturda^20* was any land in its neighbourhood. We flood on till midnight, when, having palled the iiland, we tacked, and fpent the remainder of the night making two boards. At fun-rife on the 2] ft, we flood to S. W., in order to get to the South of Sunday %u Tanna, and nearer to Annatom, to obferve if any more land lay in that direction ; for an extraordinary clear morning had produced no difcovery of any to the Eafl. At noon having obferved in latitude 200 33' 30", the fituation of the lands around 11s was as fellows. Port Refolution bore N. 86° Weil, diflant fix and a half leagues ; the Tfland of Tanna extended fromS. 88° Weft, to N. 640 Weft j Traitor's Head N. 580 Weft, diftant twenty leagues; the Ifland of Erronan N. 88° Eaft, diftant five leagues; and Annatom from S. ■ E. to S. f W., diftant ten leagues. We continued to flretch to the South till two o'clock P. M., when, feeing no more land before us, we bore up round the S. E. end of Tanna; and, with a fine gale at E. S. E., ran along the South coafl at one league from fhore. It feemed a bold one, without the guard of any rocks ; and the country full as fertile as in the neighbourhood of the harbour, and making a fine appearance. At fix + o'clock '774- o'clock the high land of Erromaneo appeared over the Weil ;-»-' end of Tanna in the direction of N. i6° Weft; at eight lJ,iay21' o'clock we were pad the iiland, and fleered N. N. W. for Sandwich Ifland, in order to finifh the furvcy * of it, and of Monday 2;. the ifles to the.N. W. On the 22d, at four o'clock P. M., we drew near the S. E. end, and ranging the South coafl, found it to trend in the direction of Well and W. N. W. for about nine leagues. Near the middle of this length, and clofe to the fhore, are three or four fmall ifles, behind which feemed to be a fafe anchorage. But not thinking I had any time to fpare to vifit this fine ifland, I continued to range the coafl to its weftern extremity, and then fleered N. N. W. for the S. E. end of Mallicollo, which, at half pafl fix o'clock next morn-Tuefday«3, ing, bore N. 140 Eafl, diflant feven or eight leagues, and Three-Hills Ifland S. 820 Eafl. Soon after, we faw the iflands Apee, Paoom, and Ambrym. What we had comprehended under the name of Paoom appeared now to be two ifles, fomething like a feparation being feen between the hill and the land to the Wefl of it. We approached the S. W. fide of Mallicollo to within half a league, and ranged it at that diilance. From the S, E, point, the direction of the land is Weft* a little foutherly, for fix or feven leagues, and then N. W- by W. three leagues, to a pretty high point or head land, fituated in latitude 16° 29', and which obtained the name of South-Weft Cape. The coaft, which is low, feemed to be indented into creeks and projecting points ; or clfe, thefe points were fmall ifles lying under the fhore. We were fure of one, which lies between two and three leagues Eaft of the cape. Clofe to the Weft fide or point of the cape, lies, connected with * The word Survey is not here to be underflood in its literal fenfr. Surveying a place, according to my idea, is taking a geometrical plan of it, in which every place is to have iu srae fituation, which cannot be done in a work of this nature. it it by breakers, a round rock or iflot, which helps to inciter '774. r u Auguft. a line bay, formed by an elbow in the coaft, from the reign- i—-s-1 . , Tuefday 231 ing winds. The natives appeared in troops on many parts of the fhore* and fome feemed defirous to come off" to us in canoes; but they did not; and, probably, our not fhortening fail, was the reafon. From the South-Weft Cape, the direction of the coaft is N. by W.; but the moft advanced land bore from it N. W. by N., at which the land feemed to terminate. Continuing to follow the direction of the coaft, at noon it was two miles from us; and our latitude, by obfervation, was 160 22' 30" South. This is nearly the parallel to Port Sandwich, and our never-failing guide, the watch, fhewed that; we were 26' Weft of it; a diftance which the breadth of Mai-licollo cannot exceed in this parallel. The South-Weft Cape boreS. 260 Eaft, diftant feven miles; and the moft advanced point of land, for which we fleered, bore N. W. by N. At three o'clock, we were the length of it, and found the land continued, and trending more and more to the North. We coafted it to its northern extremity, which we did not reach till after dark, at which time wc were near enough the fhore to hear the voices of people, who -were afTcmblcd round a fire they had made on the beach. There we founded, and found twenty fathoms and a bottom of fand ; but, on edging off from the fhore, we foon got out of founding, and then made-a-trip-back, to the South till the moon got up. After this wc flood again to the North, hauled round the point, and fpent the night in Bougainville's paffagc; being affured of our fituation before fun-fct, by feeing the land, on the North fide of the paffage, extending as far as N. W. v W. f> The" 1774. The South coafl of Mallicollo, from the S. E, end to the SL Aug oit. c—„-1 W. Gape, is luxuriantly clothed with wood, and other pro-. uc ay 23. _ 27. plantations. At day-break on the 27th, we found ourfelves two-thirds down the bay; and, as we had but little wind, it was noon before we were the length of the N. W. point,, which at this time bore N. 820 Weft, diftant five miles. Latitude obferved 14° 39' 30". Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of this being the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, as there was no place which they thought could mean the port of Vera Cruz. Eor my part, t part, I found general points to agree fo well with Qui- «74j ros's defcription, that I had not the leafl doubt about it. u.—,— As to what he calls the port of Vera Cruz, I underftand that °atUida) 2 to be the anchorage at the head of the bay, which in fome places may extend farther off than where our boats landed. There is nothing in his account of the port which contradicts this fuppofition*. It was but natural for his people to give a name to the place, independent of fo large a bay, where they lay fo long at anchor. A port is a vague term, like many others in geography, and has been very often applied to places far lefs fheitered than this. Our officers obferved that grafs and other plants grew on the beach clofe to high-water mark ; which is always a fure fignof pacific anchorage, and an undeniable proof that there never is a great furf on the fhore. They judged that the tide rofe about four or five feet, and that boats and fuch craft might, at high-water, enter the river, which feemed to he pretty deep and broad within; fo that this, probably, is one of thofe mentioned by Qiiiros; and, if we were not deceived, wc iUw the other. The bay hath twenty leagues fea-coafl; fix on the eaft: fide, which lies in the direction of S. | Weft and N. £ Eaft • two at the head ; and twelve on the weft fide, the direction of which is S. by E. and N. by W., from the head down to two-thirds of its length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point. The two points which form the entrance, lie in the direction of S. 53° Eaft and N. 530 Weft, from each other diftant ten leagues. The bay is every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the fliores, which are for the moft part low. This, however, is only a * SecQuiros's Voyage, in Dairymplc'a Collection, vol. i..p. 136, 137. 1 "^ery% '774* fcgurJay 27. Sunday 2?. JMonday 29. Tuefday 30. very narrow ftrip between the fea-fhorc and the foot of the hills j for the bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded on each fide by a ridge of hills, one of which, that to the Weft, is very high and double, extending the whole length of the ifland. An uncommonly luxuriant vegetation was every where to be feen ; the fides of the hills were checquered with plantations; and every valley watered by a ftream. Of all the productions of nature this country was adorned with, the cocoa-nut trees were the moft confpicuous. The columns of fmoke we faw by day, and the fires by night, all over the country, led us to believe that it is well inhabited and very fertile. The eaft point of this bay, which I name Cape Quiros, in memory of its firft difcoverer, is fituated in latitude 140 56' South, longitude 16 f 13' Eaft. The N. W-point, which I named Cape Cumberland, in honour of his Royal Highnefs the Duke, lies in the latitude of 140 38' 45" South, longitude 1660 49' ■£ Eaft, and is the N. W. extremity of this Archipelago j for, after doubling it, we found the coaft to trend gradually round to the South and S. S. E. On the 28th and 29th, we had light airs and calms, fo that we advanced but little. In this time, we took every opportunity, when the horizon was clearer than ufual, to look out for more land ; but none was feen. By Quiros's track to the North, after leaving the bay above mentioned, it fcems probable that there is none nearer than Queen Charlotte's Ifland, difcovered by Captain Carteret, which lies about ninety leagues N. N. W. from Cape Cumberland, and I take to be the fame with Quiros's Santa Cruz. ■ • On the 30th, the calm was fucceeded by a frefh breeze at S. S. E. which enabled us to ply Up the coaft. At noon we obferved in 150 20'; afterwards wc ftretched in Eaft, to within in a mile of the more, and then tacked, in feventy five fa- J774* thorns, before a fandy flat, on which feveral of the natives u—^-1 made their appearance. We obferved, on the fides of the rudd'l>3c hills, feveral plantations that were laid out by line and fenced round. On the 3 iff, at noon, the South or S. W. point of the ifland Wednefii 3 bore N. 620 Eafl, diflant four leagues. This forms the N. W. point of what I call Bougainville's Paffage ; the N. E. point, at this time, bore N. 850 Eafl, and the N. W. end of Mallicollo from S. 540 Eafl to S. 720 Eafl. Latitude obferved 150 45' S. In the afternoon, in flretching to the Eafl, we weathered the S. W. point of the ifland, from which the coafl trends Eafl, northerly. It is low, and feemed to form fome creeks or coves, and, as we got farther into the paffage, we perceived fome fmall low ifles lying along it, which feemed to extend behind St. Bartholomew Ifland. Having now finifhed the furvey of the whole Archipelago,, the feafon of the year made it neceffary for me to return to the South, while I had yet fome time left to explore any land I might meet with between this and New Zealand; where I intended to touch, that I might refrefh my people, and recruit our flock of wood and water for another fouthern courfe. With this view, at five P. M. we tacked, and hauled to the fouthward with a frefh gale at S. E. At this time the N. W. point of the paffage, or the S. W. point of the ifland Tierra* del Efpiritu Santo, the only remains of Quiros's continent, bore N. 820 Weft, diflant three leagues. I named it Cape Lifburne, and its fituation is in latitude 150 40', longitude 16 50 59' Eafl. The foregoing account of thefe iflands, in the order in which we explored them, not being particular enough either as to fituation or defcription, it may not be improper 1774- proper now to give a more accurate view of them, which, u^v*!^ with the annexed chart, will convey to the reader a better Wuu.o. 31. q£ ^ whole groupc. The northern iflands of this Archipelago were firfl difcovered by that great navigator Quiros in 1606 ; and, not without reafon, were confidered as part of the fouthern continent, which, at that time, and until very lately, was fuppofed to exiil. They were next vifited by M. dc Bougainville, in 1768; who, befides landing on the Ifle of Lepers, did no more than difcover that the land was not connected, but compofed of iflands, which he called the Great Cyclades. But as, befides afcertaining the extent and fituation of thefe iflands, we added to them feveral new ones which were not known before, and explored the whole, I think wc have obtained a right to name them; and fhall in future diflin-guifh them by the name of the New Hebrides. They are iituated between the latitude of 140 20/ and 200 4' South, and between 1G60 4.1' and 1700 21' Earl longitude, and extend an hundred and twenty-five leagues in the direction of N. N. W. I W. and S. S. E. 7 E. The mod northern ifland is that called by M. de Bougainville Peak of the Etoilc. It is fituatcd, according to his account, in latitude 14° 29', longitude 1680 9'; and, N. by W,, eight leagues from Aurora. The next ifland, which lies farthefl North, is that of, Tierra del Efpiritu Santo. It is the mod weflern and largefl of all the Hebrides, being twenty-two leagues long, in the direction of N. N. W. * W. and S. S. E. 4 E., twelve in breadth, and fixty in circuit. We have obtained the true figure of this ifland, very accurately. The land of it, efpecially the well fide, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in many places, the hills rife directly from from the fea. Except the cliffs and beaches, even' other »774- part is covered with wood, or laid out in plantations. Be- <-*—» iiclcs the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, the ifles which lie e '3I* along the fouth and eafl coaft, cannot, in my opinion, fail of forming fome good bays or harbours. The next confiderable ifland is that of Mallicollo. To the S. If. it extends N. W. andS. E., and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. Its greatefl breadth, which is at the S. E. end, is eight leagues. The N. W. end is two-thirds this breadth; and nearer the middle, one-third. This contraction is occafioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on the S. W. fide. To judge of this iiland from what we faw of it, it mufl be very fertile and well inhabited. The land on the fea-coafl is rather low, and lies with a gentle flope from the hills which are in the middle of the ifland. Two-thirds of the N. E. coafl was only feen at a great diflance ; therefore the delineations of it on the chart can have no pretenfions to accuracy ; but the other parts, 1 apprehend, arc without any material errors. Sr. Bartholomew lies between the S. E. end of Tierra del Efpiritu Santo, and the north end of Mallicollo; and the diflance between it and the latter is eight miles. This is the paffage through which M. de Bougainville went; and the middle of it is in latitude 150 48'. The Ifle of Lepers lies between Efpiritu Santo and Aurora Iiland, eight leagues from the former, and three from the latter, in latitude 150 22', and nearly under the fame meridian as the S. E. end of Mallicollo. It is of an egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in circuit. Its limits were determined by feveral bearings; but the lines Vol. II. O of 1774- of the fhore were traced out by guefs, except the N. E. part, vJ^ILj where there is anchorage half a mile from the land. Wednef. jljp Aurora, Whitfuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, and Sandwich Iflands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 1670 29' or 30' Eafl, extending from the latitude of 140 51' 30", to 170 53' 30". The iiland of Aurora lies N. by W. and S. by E., and is eleven leagues long in that direction; but, I believe, it hardly any where exceeds two or two and an half in breadth. It hath a good height, its furface hilly, and every where covered with wood, except where the natives have their dwellings and plantations. Whitfuntide Ifle, which is one league and an half to the South of Aurora, is of the fame length, and lies in the direction of North and South, but is fomething broader than Aurora Iiland. It is confiderably high, and clothed with wood, except fuch parts as feemed to be cultivated, which were pretty numerous. From the fouth end of Whitfuntide Ifland to the north fide of Ambrym is two leagues and an half. This is about feventecn leagues in circuit j its fhores are rather low, but the land rifes with an unequal afcent to a tolerably high mountain in the middle of the ifland, from which afcended great columns of fmoke ; but we were notable to determine whether this was occafioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well inhabited, feems probable from the quantities of fmoke which we faw rife out of the woods, in fuch parts of the ifland as came within the compafs of our fight j for it mufl be obferved, that we did not fee the whole of it. We We faw ftill much lefs of Paoom and its neighbourhood. 1)7* Auguft, I can fay no more of this iiland than that it towers up to a i—^—» Wedncf. 31. great height in the form of a round hay-flack; and the extent of it, and of the adjoining ifle (if there are two), cannot exceed three or four leagues in any direction; for the distance between Ambrym and Apee is hardly five; and they lie in this fpace, and Eafl from Port Sandwich, diflant about feven or eight leagues. The ifland of Apee is not lefs than twenty leagues in circuit; its longeft direction is about eight leagues N. W. and S. E.; it is of confiderable height; and hath a hilly furface diverfificd with woods and lawns, the Wcfl and South parts efpecially; for the others we did not fee. Shepherd's Ifles are a group of fmall ones of unequal fize, extending off from the S. E. point of Apee about five leagues, in the direction of S. E. The iiland Threehills lies South four leagues from the coafl of Apee, and S. E. 4 S., diflant feventecn leagues, from Port Sandwich: to this, and what hath been already faid of it, I fhall only add, that W. by N, five miles from the well point, is a reef of rocks on which the fea continually breaks. Nine leagues, in the direction of South, from Threehills, lies Sandwich Ifland. Twohills, the Monument, and Montagu Iflands lie to the Eafl of this line, and Hinchinbrook to the Weft, as alfo two or three fmall ifles which lie between it and 'Sandwich Ifland, to which they are connected by breakers. Sandwich Ifland is twenty-five leagues in circuit; its greatell extent is ten leagues; and it lies in the direction of O 2 N. W. 1774. N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. The N. W. coaft of this ifland VugyufL > wc only viewed at a diftance; therefore the chart in this dnef*3'' part may be faulty fo far as it regards the line of the coaft, but no farther. The diftance from the fbuth end of Mallicollo to the N. W. end of Sandwich Ifland, is twenty-two leagues in the direct ion of S. S. E. 4 E. In the fame direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annatom. The firfl is 18 leagues from Sandwich Ifland, and is twenty-four or twenty-five leagues in circuit. The middle of it lies in the latitude of 180 54', longitude 1690 io' E., and it is of a good height, as may be gathered from the diftance we were off when we firfl faw it. Tanna lies fix leagues from the fouth fide of Erromango, extending S. E. by S. and N. W. by N., about eight leagues long in that direction, and every where about three or four leagues broad. The ifle of Immer lies in the direction of N. by E. - E., four leagues from Port Refolution in Tanna; and the ifland of Erronan or Footoona Eaft, in the fame direction, diftant eleven leagues. This, which is the moft eaftern ifland of all the Hebrides, did not appear to be above five leagues in circuit, but is of*a confiderable height and flat at top. on tnc N. E. fide is a little peak feemingly disjoined from the ifle;. but we thought it was connected by low land. Annatom, which is the fouthernmoft ifland, is fituated in the latitude of 20° 3', longitude 1700 4', and S. 3o°Eaft, eleven or twelve leagues from Port Refolution. It is of a good height, with an hilly furface j and more I mufl not fay of it. Here Here follows the lunar obfervations by Mr. Wales, for '?74- r - Augull. atccrtaining the longitude of thefe iflands, reduced by the ^—„-* watch to Port Sandwich in Mallicollo, and Port Refolution etne'13* *n Tanna. [Mean of 10 fetsofobferv. before 1670 56' 33" -J "J pQRT | - - 2 Ditto, - - at 168 2 37 i^E. Long. Sandwich,a ' ' 20 diu°j " after 167 52 57 I Mean of thofe means, - - 167 57 22 -|: I --- [Mean of 20 fets of obferv, before 169 37 35 - - 5 Ditto, - - at 169 48 48 t> < - 20 Ditto, - after i6q 47 22 i Resolution, j '_________ I^Mean of thefe means - , ,69 44 35 E. Long. It is ncceffary to obferve, that each fet of obfervations con-lifting of between fix and ten obferved diftances of the fim and moon, or moon and ftars, the whole number amounts to feveral hundreds; and thefe have been reduced by means of the watch, to all the iflands; fo that the longitude of each is as well afcertained as that of the two ports above mentioned. As a proof of this 1 fhall only obferve, that the longitude of the two ports, as pointed out by the watch and by the obfervations* did not differ two miles. This alfo ihews what degree of accuracy thefe obfervations are capable of, When multiplied to a confiderable number, made with different inftruments, and with the fun and flars, or both fides of the moon. By this laft method, the errors which may he either in the inftruments or lunar tables* deftroy one another, and likewufe thofe which may arife from the obfervcr himfelf; for fome men may obferve clofcr than others. If We confider the number of obfervations that may be obtained in the courfe of a month (if the weather is favourable), we t fliall *774« lhall perhaps find this method of finding'the longitude of k^S^j places as accurate as moft others ; at leafl it is the moft eafy, due. 31. an(:j attenc]e(j with the leafl expence to the obferver. Every fhip that goes to foreign parts is, or maybe, fupplied with a fufficient number of quadrants at a fmall expence j I mean good ones, proper for making thefe obfervations. For the difference of the price between a good and bad one, I apprehend, can never be an object with an officer. The mofl cxpenfive article, and what is in fome meafure neceffary, in order to arrive at the utmofl accuracy, is a good watch; but for common ufe, and where that ftrict accuracy is not required, this may be difpenfed with. I have obferved before, in this journal, that this method of finding the longitude is not fo difficult but that any man, with proper application, and a little practice, may foon learn to make thefe obfervations as well as the aftronomers themfclves. I have feldom known any material difference between the obfervations made by Ivlr. Wales, and thofe made by the officers at the fame time *. In obferving the variation of the magnetic needle, we found, as ufual, our compaffes differ among themfclves, fometimcs near 20 ; the fame compafs too, would fometimes make nearly this difference in the variation on different days, and even between the morning and evening of the fame day, when our change of fituation has been but very little. By the mean of the obfervations which I made about Erromango, and the S. E. part of thefe iflands, the variation of the compafs was io° 5' 48" Eaft; and the mean of thofe made about Ticrra del Efpiritu Santo, gave io° 5' 30" Eafl. This is confidcrably more than Mr. Wales found it to be at • See Vol. I, p. Tanna. Tanna. I cannot fay what might occafion this difference in 1774-the variation obferved at fea and on more, unlefs it be m- ^—s—^ flnenccd by the land; for I mufl give the preference to that found at fea, as it is agreeable to what we obferved before we made the iflands, and after we left them. CHAP, VIII. An Account of the Difcovery of New Caledonia, and the Incidents that happened while the Ship lay mBaiade. AT fun-rife on the ifl of September, after having flood Tshepltfjmber-to S, W. all night, no more land was to be feen. The ^ U wind remaining in the S. E. quarter, we continued to fland to S. W. On the 2d, at five o'clock P. M., being in the lad- Friday 2* titude 18° 22', longitude 1650 26', the variation was io° 50' Eafl; and at the fame hour on the 3d, it was io° 51', latitude Saturday 3. at that time 190 14', longitude 1650 Eafl. The next morn- Sim]ay4-ing, in the latitude of 190 4c/, longitude 1640 53', the amplitude gave io° 21', and the azimuths 10? 7' Eaft. At eight o'clock, as we were fleering to the South, land was difcovered bearing S. S. W., and at noon it extended from S. S. E. to W. by S., diflant about fix leagues. We continued to fleer for it with a light breeze at Eafl, till five in the evening, when we were flopped by a calm. At this time we were three leagues from the land, which extended from S. E. by S. to, W. by N., round by the S. W. Some openings appeared in the Weft, fo that we could not tell whether it was one con-^ nected land or a group of iflands. To the S. E. the coafl feemed to terminate in a high promontory, which I namedr Cape: 1774- Cape Colnett, after one of my midfhipmcn who firfl dif-vS!^l!!l covered this land. Breakers were feen about half-way be* Sunday 4. tween us ancj tne fhore; and, behind them, two or three canoes under fail, (landing out to fea, as if their defign had been to come oil to us; but a little before fun-fet they flruck their fails, and we faw them no more. After a few hours calm, wc got a breeze at S. E., and fpent the night Handing off and on. tfaday 5. On the 5th at fun-rife, the horizon being clear, we could fee the coafl extend to the S. E. of Cape Colnett, and round by the S. W. to N. W. by W. Some gaps or openings were yet to be feen to the Weft; and a reef, or breakers, feemed to lie all along the coaft, connected with thofe we difcovered the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me whether we plied up the coafl to the S. E., or bore down to N. W. I chofe the latter; and after running two leagues down the outfide of the reef (for fuch it proved) we came before an opening that had the appearance of a good channel, through which we might go in for the land. I wanted to get at it, not only to vifit it, but alfo to have an opportunity to obferve an eclipfe of the fun which was foon to happen. With this view wtc brought to, hoifted out two armed boats, and fent them to found the channel ; ten or twelve large failing canoes being then near us. We had obferved them coming off from the fhore, all the morning, from different parts; and fome were lying on the reef, fifhing as wc fuppofed. As foon as they all got together, they came down to us in a body, and were pretty near when we were hoifl-ing out our boats, which probably gave them fome alarm ; for, without flopping, they hauled in for the reef, and our boats followed them. We now faw that Monday 5, AND ROUND THE WORLD. los that what wc had taken for openings in the coafl was low o *774- 1 in September. land, and that it was all connected, except the weftern extremity, which was an ifland known by the name of Ba~ labea, as we afterwards learnt. The boats having made a fignal for a channel, and one of them being placed on the point of the reef on the weather fide of it, we flood in with the fhip, and took up the other boat in our way, when the officer informed me, that where we were to pafs, was fixteen and fourteen fathoms water, a fine fandy bottom, and that, having put along-fide two canoes, he found the people very obliging and civil. They gave him fome fifh ; and, in return, he prefented them with medals, ckc. In one was a flout robufl young man, whom they underflood to be a chief. After getting within the reef, we hauled up S. | E., for a fmall low fandy ifle that we obferved lying under the more, being followed by all the canoes. Our founding, in Handing in, was from fifteen to twelve fathoms, (a pretty even fine fandy bottom) for about two miles; then we had fix, five, and four fathoms. This was on the tail of a fhoal which lies a little without the fmall ifle to the N. E. Being over it, we found feven and eight fathoms water, which fhallowed gradually, as we approached the fhore, to three fathoms, when we tacked, flood off a little, and then anchored in five fathoms, the bottom a fine fand mixed with mud. The little fandy ifle bore E. by S„ three quarters of a mile diflant; and we were one mile from the fhore of the main, which extended from S. E. by E., round by the South, to W. N. W. The ifland of Balabca bore N. W. by N., and the channel, through which wc came, North, four miles diflant. In this fituation we were ex- Vol. II. p tremely >774* tremely well flieltered from the reigning winds, by the fandy September. ] n <—-v-—} ifle and its fhoals, and by the fhoal without them. Monday 5. We had hardly got to an anchor, before we were furround-ed by a great number of the natives, in fmeen or eighteen canoes, the mofl of whom were without any fort of weapons. At firfl they were fhy of coming near the fhip; but in a fhort time wc prevailed on the people in one boat to get clofe enough to receive fome prefents. Thefe we lowered down to them by a rope, to which, in return, they tied two fifh that flunk intolerably, as did thofe they gave us in the morning. Thefe mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on board the fhip ; and prefently after, fhe was filled with them, and we had the company of feveral at dinner in the cabbin. Our peafe-foup, fait beef, and pork, they had no curiofity to tafle; but they eat of fome yams, which we happened to have yet left, calling them Oobee. This name is not unlike Oofee, as they are called at mofl of the iflands, except Mallicollo ; neverthelefs, we found thefe people fpoke a language new to us. Like all the nations we had lately feen, the men were almoft naked \ having hardly any other covering but fuch a wrapper as is ufed at Mallicollo *. They were curious in examining every part of the fhip, which they viewed with uncommon attention. They had not the leafl knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even a name for one of them. They feemed fond of large fpike-nails, and pieces of red cloth, or indeed of any other colour j but red was their favourite. After dinner, I went on fhore with two armed boats, having with us one of the natives who had attached himfelf * Sec the Note at Page 34 of this Volume. to September. Monday 5. to me. WTe landed on a fandy beach before a van number cj774 of people, who had got together with no other intent than to fee us ; for many of them had not a flick in their hands ; confequently we were received with great courtcfy, and with the furprife natural for people to exprefs, at feeing men and things fo new to them as we muft be. I made prefents to all thofe my friend pointed out, who were either old men, or fuch as feemed to be of fome note but he took not the lead notice of fome women who flood behind the crowd, holding my hand when I was going to give them fome beads and medals. Here we found the fame chief, who had been feen in one of the canoes, in the morning. His name, we now learnt, was Tcabooma ; and we had not been on more above ten minutes, before he called for filence. Being inflantly obeyed by every individual prefent, he made a fhort fpeech; and foon after another chief having called for filcncc, made a fpeech alfo. It was pleafing to fee with what attention they were heard. Their fpceches were compofed of fhort fentences : to each of which two or three old men anfwercd, by nodding their heads, and giving a kind of grunt, fignifi-cant, as I thought, of approbation. It was impofliblc for us to know the purport of thefe fpceches ; but wc had reafon to think they were favourable to us, on whofe account they doubtlefs were made. I kept my eyes fixed on the people all the time, and f;iw nothing to induce me to think other-wife. While we were with them, having inquired, by figns, for frelh water, fome pointed to the Eaft, and others to the Well. My friend undertook to conduct us to it, and embarked with us for that purpofe. Wc rowed about two miles up the coafl to the Eafl, where the fhore was moflly covered with mangrove-trees ; and entering amongft them, by a narrow creek or river, which brought us to a little V 2 ftraggling '774- draggling village, above all the mangroves, there we landed, September. 0 7 i-M--1 and were fhcwn frefh water. The ground near this village Monday c. r t i • i , • i • i • i . ^ was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of fugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots ; and watered by little rills, conducted by art from the main flream, whofe fource was in the hills. Here were fome cocoa-nut trees, which did not feem burdened with fruit. We heard the crowing of cocks, but faw none. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would have held fix or eight gallons-, nor did we doubt its being their own manufacture. As we proceeded up the creek, Mr. Forfter having fhot a duck flying over our heads, which was the firfl ufe thefe people faw made of our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it; and when he landed, told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day being far fpenr, and the tide not permitting us to flay longer in the creek, we took leave of the people, and got on board a little after fun-fet. From this little excurfion, I found that we were to expect nothing from thefe people but the privilege of vifiting their country undiflurbed. For it was eafy to fee they had little elfe than good-nature to beflow. In this they exceeded all the nations we had yet met with ; and, although it did not fatisfy the demands of nature, it at once plcafed and left our minds at eafe. Tuefday 6., Next morning we were vifited by fome hundreds of the natives ; fome coming in canoes, and others fwimming off * Co that before ten o'clock, our decks, and all other parts of the fhip, were quite full with them. My friend, who was of the number, brought me a few roots, but all the others came empty in refpect to eatables. Some few had with them their arms, fuch as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &x. After breakfail, I 4 fent fent Lieutenant Pickerfeill with two armed boats to look for *774- o oepi ember. frefh water; for what we found the day before was by no <-;-» Tuefday 6. means convenient for us to get on board. At the fame time, Mr. Wales, accompanied by Lieutenant Clerke, went to the little ifle to make preparations for obferving the eclipfe of the fun, which was to be in the afternoon. Mr. Fickerfgill foon returning, informed me that he had found a flream of frefh water, pretty convenient to come at. I therefore ordered the launch to be hoifled out to complete our water, and then went to the ifle to affift in the obfervation. About one P. M. the eclipfe came on. Clouds interpofed, and we loft the firft contaft, but were more fortunate in the end, which was obferved as follows : By Mr. Wales with Dollond's at foot achromatic "I refractor, at - - - - - - 0 Y% By Mr, Clerke with Bird's 2 foot reflector, at- 32852-*: v, | And by me wkh an 18 inch reflector made by ; g. Watkins...... 0 do* j . Latitude of the ifle or place of obfervation 200 17' 39" South. Longitude per diftance of the fun and moon, and moon and ftars, 48 fets, 1640 4I' u» Eaft. Ditto per watch 163 58 o. Mr. Wales meafurcd the quantity eclipfed by a Hadley's quadrant, a method never before thought of. I am of opinion it anfwers the purpofe of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition to the ufe of this moft valuable inflrument. After all was over, we returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who foon after flipped out of the fhip without my knowledge, and by that means loft the prefent I had made up for him. In In the evening, I went afhore to the watering-place, which was at the head of a little creek, at a fine dream that came from the hills. Ic was ncceffary to have a fmall boat in the creek to convey the caiks from and to the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch; as only a fmall boat could enter the creek, and that only at high-water. Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than water, but this was an article we did not want. About feven o'clock this evening, died Simon Monk, our butcher, a man much cflcemed in the (hip; his death being occafioned by a fall down the fore-hatch-way the preceding night. Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under the command of an officer, were fent afhore ; and foon after a party of us went to take a view of the country. As foon as wc landed, we made known our defign to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route wc met feveral people, mofl of whom turned back with us; fo that at laft our train was numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid no regard to their figns, nor did they feem uneafy when we proceeded. At length we reached the fummit of one of the hills, from which we faw the fea in two places, between fome advanced hills, on the oppofite, or S. W. fide of the land. This was an ufeflil difcovcry, as it enabled us to judge of the breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed ten leagues. Between thofe advanced hills, and the ridge we were upon, was a large valley, through which ran a ferpentinc river. On the banks of this were feveral plantations, and 3 fome VIEW IN THE ISLAND OF NBW CALEDONIA /W-//j//*/ 1 Mr. Gilbert with the launch and cutter to explore the coaft to the Weft; judging this would be better effected in the boats than in the fhip, as the reefs would force the latter feveral leagues from land. After breakfaft, a party of men was fent afhore to make brooms ; but myfelf and the two Mr. Eorfters were confined on board, though much better, a good fweat having had an happy effecl:. In the afternoon, a man was feen, both afhore and along-fide the fhip, faid to be as white as any European. From the account I had of him (for I did Vol. II. q_ not 1774- not fee him) his whitenefs did not proceed from hereditary September. r ^—defcenr, but from chance or fome difeafe; and fuch have « ) y- been feen at Otaheite and the Society Ifles *. A frefh eaflerly wind, and the fhip lying a mile from the fhore, did not hinder thefe good-natured people from fwimming off to us in fhoals of twenty or thirty, and returning the fame way; On the loth, a party was on more as ufual ; and Mr* Saturday 10. j"orftcr fo well, recovered as to go out botanizing. In the evening of the i ith, the boats returned, when I was - j informed of the following circumflances. From an eleva- Sui d'iy r I. i ° tion, which they reached the morning they fet out, they had a view of the coafl. Mr. Gilbert was of opinion, that they faw the termination of it to the Weft, but Mr. Pickerfgill thought not; though both agreed that there was no paffage for the fhip that way. From this place, accompanied by two of the natives, they went to Balabea, which they did not reach till after fun-fet, and left again next morning before fun-rife ; confequcntly this was a fruitlefs expedition, and the two following days were fpent in getting up to the Jhip. As they went down to the ifle, they faw abundance of turtle, but the violence of the wind and fea made it impof-iible to ftrike any. The cutter was near being loft, by fud^ denly filling with water, which obliged them to throw feveral things overboard, before they could free her and flop the leak fhe had fprung. From a fifhing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got as much fifh as they could eat; and they were received by Tcabi, the chief of the ifle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to fee them, with great courtefy. In order not to be too much * Wafer met with Indians in the ifthmus of Darien of the colour of a white horfe. See his Vefcripiianaftbe Ijlbmus, p. 134. See alfj Mr. de Paw's Philosophical Inquiries concerning the Americans, where feveral other inflances of this remarkable whitenefs are mentioned, and the cawGes of 11 attempted to be explained.. crowded crowded, our people drew a line on the ground, and gave g l?J^'er the others to underftand they were not to come within it. — *t This reftri&ion they obferved ; and one of them, foon after, un 3> turned it to his own advantage. For happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, which one of our people wanted to buy, and he was unwilling to part with, he walked off, and was followed by the man who wanted them. On feeing this he fat down on the fand, made a circle round him, as he had feen our people do, and fignified that the other was not to come within it; which was accordingly obferved. As this ftary was well attefled, I thought it not unworthy of a place in this journal. Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter Mondar,2-to work, to repair the cutter, and the water to be replaced, which we had expended the three preceding days. As Teabooma the chief had not been feen fince he got the dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for flocking the country with hogs alfo, I took a young boar and fow with me in the boat, and went up the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give them to him. But when wc arrived there, we were told that he lived at fome diftance, and that they would fend for him. Whether they did or no I cannot fay ; but he not coming, I rcfolvcd to give them to the firfl man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hills happening to be there, I made him underfland, that I intended to leave the two pigs on fhore, and ordered them out of the boat for that [purpofe. I offered them to a grave old man, thinking he was a proper perfon to intrufl them with ; but he fhook his head, and he, and all prefent, made figns to take them into the boat again. When they faw I did not comply, they feemed to confult with one another what was to be done; and then our guide told me to carry Qjz them 1774- them to the Akkee (chief). Accordingly I ordered them September. , _ v . J *__>—t to be taken up, and we were conducted by him to a Monday 12. ^^fo wherein were feated, in a circle, eight or ten, middle-aged perfons. To them I and my pigs being introduced, with great courtefy they defired me to fit down ; and then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to them how many young ones the female would have at one time, and how foon thefe would multiply to fome hundreds. My only motive was to enhance their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I had reafon to think I, in fome meafure, fuccecded. In the mean time, two men having left the company, foon returned with fix yams, which were prefented to me ; and then I took leave and went on board. I have already obferved, that here was a little village; I now found it much larger than I expected ; and, about it, a good deal of cultivated land, regularly laid out, planted and planting, with taro or eddy root, yams, fugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily watered by little rills, continually fupplied from the main channel at the foot of the mountains, from whence thefe ftreams were conducted in artful meanders. They have two methods of planting thefe roots, fome are in fquare or oblong patches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and fink below the common level of the adjacent land ; fo that they can let in on them as much water as they think neceflary. I have generally feen them covered two or three inches deep; but I do not know that this is always neceflary. Others are planted in ridges about three or four feet broad, and two, or two and an half high. On the middle or top of the ridge, is a narrow gutter, in and along which is conveyed, as above 8 defcribed^ defcribed, a little rill that waters the roots, planted in the SeJ774^ ridge, on each fide of it •, and thefe plantations are fo judi- jj— cioufly laid out, that the fame flream waters feveral ridges. Thefe ridges are fometimes the divifions to the horizontal plantations; and when this method is ufed, which is for the mofl part obferved where a pathway or fomething of that fort is requifite, not an inch of ground is loft. Perhaps there may be fome difference in the roots, which may make thefe two methods of raifing them neceffary. Some are better tafled than others, and they are not all of a colour ; but be this as it may, they are a very whole fome food, and the tops make good greens, and are eaten as fuch by the natives. On thefe plantations men, women, and children were employed. In the afternoon, I went on fhore, and, on a large tree, which flood clofe to the fhore, near the watering place, had an infcription cut, fetting forth the fhip's name, date, 8cc. as a tcflimony of our being the firfl difcoverers of this country, as I had done at all others, at which we had touched, where this ceremony was neceffary. This being done, we took leave of our friends, and returned on board ; when I ordered all the boats to be hoifled in, in order to be ready to put to fea in the morning. CHAP. CHAP. IX. A Defcription of the Country and its Inhabitants \ their Manners^ Cufiums^ and Arts. 1774. T SHALL conclude our tranfactions at this place, with ^ \ Jl fome account o,f the country and its inhabitants. They arc a flrong, robufl, active, well-made people, courteous and friendly, and not in the leafl addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be faid of any other nation in this fea. They are nearly of the fame colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better features, more agreeable countenances, and arc a much flouter race; a few being feen who meafured fix feet four inches. I obferved fome who had thick lips, flat nofes, and full cheeks, and, in fome degree, the features and look of a negro. Two things contributed to the forming of fuch an idea j firfl, their ruff mop heads j and fecondly, their befmearing their faces with black pigment. Their hair and beards are, in general, black. rl he former is very much frizzled ; fo that, at firfl fight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, ncvcrthelefs, very different; though both coarfer and flronger than ours.—Some, who wear it long, tie it up on the crown of the head; others fuffer only a large lock to grow on each fide, which they tye up in clubs, many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped fhort Thefe rough heads, mofl probably, want frequent fcratching' for which purpofe they have a mofl excellent inflrument] This is a kind of comb made of flicks of hard wood, from feven to nine or ten inches long, and about the thicknefs of knit- % knitting needles. A number of thefe, feldom exceeding ^££74^ twenty, but generally fewer, arc faflened together at one v.—v—* end, parallel to, and near i-ioth of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a little pointed, will fpread out or open like the flicks of a fan, by which means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. Thefe combs or fcratchers, for I believe they ferve both purpofes, they always wear in their hair, on one fide their head. The people of Tanna have an inflrumcnt of this kind, for the fame ufe j but theirs is forked, I think, never exceeding three or four prongs; and fometimes only a fmall pointed flick. Their beards, which are of the fame crifp nature as their hair, are, for the mofl part, worn fhort. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet are common among the men \ as alfo a fwelling of the fcrotum. I know not whether this is occafioned by diC eafe, or by the mode of applying the wrapper, before-mentioned, and which they ufe as at Tanna and Mallicollo. This is their only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a tree, but fometimes of leaves. The fmall pieces of cloth, paper, &c. which they got from us, were commonly applied to this ufe. We faw coarfe garments amongfl them, made of a fort of matting, but they feemed never to wear them except when out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a kind of concave, cylindrical, fliff black cap, which Appeared to be a great ornament among them, and, we thought, was only worn by men of note, or warriors. A *arge fheet of flrong paper, when they got one from us, wa3 generally applied to this ufe. Th e women's drefs is a fhort petticoat, made of the nts °f the plantain tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fattened, and tied round the waift. The petticoat is 1774-1 is made at lead fix or eight inches thick, but not one inch Septem^eN jonger t]lan neceflary for the ufe defigned. The outer filaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament^ the mofl of them have a few pearl oyfler-fhells fixed on the right fide. The general ornaments of both fexes, are earrings of tortoife-fhell, necklaces or amulets, made both of fliclls and flones, and bracelets, made of large fhclls, which they wear above the elbow. They have punctures, or marks on the fkin, on feveral parts of the body ; but none, I think, are black, as at the eaflern iflands. I know not if they have any other defign than ornament; and the people of Tanna arc marked much in the fame manner. Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I fliould take them to be a race between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Ifles; or between thofe of Tanna and the New Zealanders ; or all three; their language, in fome refpects, being a mixture of them all. In their difpofition they are like the natives of the Friendly Ifles; but in affability and honcfty they excel them. Notwithflanding their pacific inclination, they mufl fometimes have wars, as they are well provided with oflenfive weapons; fuch as clubs, fpears, darts, and flings for throwing flones. The clubs are about two feet and an half long, and varioufly formed ; fome like a fcythe, others like a pick-axe ; fome have a head like an HawTk, and others have round heads ; but all are neatly made. Many of their darts and fpears arc no lefs neat, and ornamented with carvings. The flings are as fimple as pofhble ; but they take fome pains to form the flones that they ufe, into a proper flrape ; which is fomething like an egg, fuppofing both ends -U Pt&fojiedfe&'t 1*i777 fry W."Sf/aMn tt■ \ ends to be like the fmall one. They ufe a becket, in the e *77f * September. fame manner as at Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much ufed in firiking fifh, Sec. In this they feem very dexterous; nor, indeed, do I know, that they have any other method of catching large fifh; for I neither faw hooks nor lines among them. It is necdlefs to mention their working tools, as they are made of the fame materials, and nearly in the fame manner, as at the other iflands. Their axes, indeed, are a little different; fome, at leafl; which may be owing to fancy as much as cuflom. Their houfes, or at leafl mofl of them, are circular? fomething like a bee-hive, and full as clofe and warm. The entrance is by a fmall door, or long fquare hole, jufl big enough to admit a man bent double. The fide-walls arc about four feet and an half high j but the roof is lofty, and peaked to a point at the top; above which is a poll, or flick of wood, which is generally ornamented either with carving or fliells* or both. The framing is of fmall fpars, reeds, &x. and both fides and roof arc thick and clofe covered with thatch, made of coarfe long grafs. In the infide of the houfe are fet up polls, to which crofs fpars ar,e fattened, and platforms made, for the conveniency of laying any thing on. Some houfes have two floors, one above the other. The floor is laid with dry grafs, and, here and there, mats are fpread, for the prin. cipal people to fleep or fit on. In mofl of them we found two fire-places, and commonly a fire burning; and, as there was no vent for the fmoke but by the door, the whole houfe was both fmoky and hot, infomuch that we, who were not ufed to fuch an atmofphere, could hardly endure it a moment. Vol. II. R This Se Prober ma"^ ^e tne reafon why we found thefe people fo chilly <—-N—j when in the open air, and without exercife. We frequently faw them make little fires any where, and hurtle round them, with no other view than to warm themfclves. Smoke within doors may be a neceflary evil, as it prevents the Muf-quitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. In fome refpects their habitations are neat; for, befides the ornaments at top, I faw fome with carved door-pofls. Upon the whole, their houfes are better calculated for a cold than a hot climate j and as there are no partitions in them, they can have little privacy. They have no great variety of houfehold utenfils; the earthen jars before mentioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has, at leaff, one of them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their fifh, 8cc. The fire, by which they cook their victuals, is on the outfide of each houfe, in the open air. There are three or five pointed flones fixed in the ground ; their pointed ends being about fix inches above the furface, in this form, Thofe of three flones, arc only for one jar, thofe of five flones, for two. The jars do not fland on their bottoms, but lie inclined on their fides. The ufe of thefe flones is, obvioufly, to keep the jars from refling on the fire, in order that it may burn the better. They fubfifl chiefly on roots and fifh, and rhe bark of a tree, which I am told grows alfo in the Well Indies. This they roafl, and are almofl continually chewing. It has a fwectifh, infipid tafle; and was liked by fome of our people. Water is their only liquor; at leafl, I never faw any other made ufe of. Plan- Plantains and fugar-cancs arc, by no means, in plenty. Bread-fruit is very fcarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are fmall and but thinly planted ; and neither one nor the other feems to yield much fruit. To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we faw everyday, one might think the ifland very populous ; but, I believe, that, at this time, the inhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr. Pickerfgill obferved, that down the coalf, to the weft, there were but few people ; and wc knew they came daily from the other fide of the land, over the mountains, to vifk us. But although the inhabitants, upon the whole, may not be numerous, the iiland is not thinly peopled on the fca-coaft, and in the plains and valleys that are capable of cultivation. It feems to be a country unable to fupport many inhabitants. Nature has been lefs bountiful to it, than to any other tropical ifland we know in this fea. The greatest part of its furface, or at lead what wc faw of it, con-fltls of barren rocky mountains; and the grafs, Sec. growing on them, is ufelefs to people who have no cattle. The fterility of the country will apologize for the natives not contributing to the wants of the navigator. The fea may, perhaps, in fome rneafurc, compenfate for the deficiency of the land ; for a coaft furrounded by reefs and fhoals, as this is, cannot fail of hcing flored with fifh. I have before obferved, that the country bears great refem-blance to New South Wales, or New Holland, and that fome of its natural productions arc the fame. In particular, we found here, the tree which is covered with a foft white ragged bark, eafily peeled off, and is, as I have been told, the fame 1.1 2 that 1774- that, in the Eaft Indies, is ufed for caulking of fhips. The ■ptember. . o i —v-r wood is very hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead green, and a fine aromatic ; fo that it may properly be laid to belong to that continent. Ncvcrthelefs, here are feveral plants, &x. common to the eaftern and northern iflands, and even a fpecics of the paflion flower, which, I am told, has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America. Our botanifts did not complain for want of employment at this place j every day bringing fomething new in botany or other branches of natural hiftory. Land birds,, indeed, arc not numerous, but feveral are new. One of thefe is a kind of crow; at leaf! fo wc called it, though it is not half fo big, and its feathers are tinged with blue. They alfo have fome very beautiful turtle-doves, and other fmall birds, fuch as I never faw before. All our endeavours to get the name of the whole iiland, proved ineffectual. Probably, it is too large for them to know by one name. Whenever we made this inquiry, they always gave us the name of fome diftricT: or place, which we pointed to ; and, as before obferved, I got the names of feveral, with the name of the king or chief of each. Hence I conclude, that the country is divided into feveral diflridts, each governed by a chief; but we know nothing of the extent of his power. Balade was the name of the diftricT: we were at, and Tea Booma the chief. He lived on the other fide of the ridge of hills ; fo that we had but little of his company, and therefore could not fee much of his power. Tea feems a title prefixed to the names of all, or moft, of their chiefs or great men. My friend honoured me by calling me Tea Cook. They They depofit their dead in the ground. I faw none of their burying-places; but feveral of the gentlemen did. In one, they were informed, lay the remains of a chief, who was flain in battle -, and his grave, which bore fome refemblance to a large mole-hill, was decorated with fpears, darts, paddles, ckc. all fluck upright in the ground round about it. The canoes, which thefe people ufe, are fomewhat like thofe of the Friendly Ifles; but the mod heavy, clumfy veflels I ever faw. They are what I call double canoes, made out of two large trees, hollowed out, having a raifed gunnel, about two inches high, and clofed at each end with a kind of bulk head of the fame height; fo that the whole is like a long fquare trough, about three feet fhortcr than the body of the canoe ; that is, a foot and an half at each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are fecured to each other, about three feet afunder, by means of crofs fpars, which project about a foot over each fide. Over thefe fpars is laid a deck, or very heavy platform, made of plank and fmall round fpars, on which they have a fire hearth, and generally a lire burning j and they carry a pot or jar to drefs their victuals in. The fpace between the two canoes is laid with plank, and the reft with fpars. On one fide of the deck, and clofe to the edge, is fixed a row of knees, pretty near to each other, the ufe of which is to keep the malt, yards, &c. from rolling over-board. They are navigated by one or two latteen fails, extended to a fmall latteen yard, the end of which fixes in a notch or hole in the deck. The foot of the fail is extended to a fmall boom. The fail is compofed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of the coarfc filaments of the plantain tree, twifted into cords of the thicknefs of a finger; and three or four more fuch cords, marled together, ferve the in 1774- them for flirouds, &c. I thought they failed very well; p'c"' but they are not at all calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when they cannot fail, is by fculling ; and for this purpofe there are holes in the boarded deck, or platform. Through thefe they put the fculls, which are of fuch a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the loom or handle is four or five feet above the deck. The man who works it Hands behind, and with both his hands fculls the veffel forward. This method of proceeding is very How ; and for this reafon, the canoes are but ill calculated for riffling, efpecially for finking of turtle, which, I think, can hardly ever be done in them. Their fiihing implements, fuch as I have feen, are turtle nets, made, I believe, of the filaments of the plantain tree twilled ; and fmall hand nets, with very minute mefhes made of fine twine and fifh gigs. Their general method of fiQiing, T guefs, is to lie on the reefs infhoal water, and to flrike the fifh that may come in their way. They may, however, have other methods, which we had no opportunity to fee, as no boat went out while wc were here; all their time and attention being taken up with us. Their canoes are about thirty feet-long, and the deck or platform about twenty-four in length and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time, feen any timber in the country fo large as that of which their canoes were made. It was obferved, that the holes, made in the feveral parts, in order to few them together, were burnt through ; but with what inftrument we never learnt. Moft probably it was of flone j which may be the reafon why they were fo fond of large fpikes, feeing at once they would anfwer this purpofe, I was convinced they were not wholly defigned for edge tools; becaufe every one fhewed a defire for the iron belaying pins which were fixed in the quarter-deck rail, and 3 feemed feemed to value them far more than a fpike-nail, although it «37J^ might be twice as big. Thefe pins which are round, perhaps have the very fhape of the tool they wanted to make of the nails. I did not find that a hatchet was quite fo valuable as a large fpike. Small nails were of little or no value; and beads, looking-glades, &c. they did not admire. The women of this country, and likewife thofe of Tanna, are, fo far as I could judge, far more chafte than thofe of the more eaflcrn iflands. I never heard that one of our people obtained the leafl favour from any one of them. I have been told, that the ladies here would frequently divert themfclves, by going a little afide with our gentlemen, as if they meant to be kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them. Whether this was chaflity or coquetry, I fhall not pretend to determine ; nor is it material, fince the confe-quences were the fame. CHAP. CHAP. X. Proceedings on the Coaft of New Caledonia, with Geographical and Nautical Obfervations. 1?74> |—> VERY thing being in readincfs to put to fea, at fun-J~/ rife, on the 13th of September, wc weighed, and with Tuefday i3. a £nc g;lic at by S., flood out for the fame channel we came in by. At half pall feven wc were in the middle of it. Obfcrvatory Ifle bore S. 50 Eall, diflant four miles, and the Lie of Balabea W. N. W. As foon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the wind on the (larboard tack, with a view or plying in to the S. E.5 but as Mr. Gilbert was of opinion that he had feen the end or N. W. extremity of the land, and that it would be caficr to get round by the N. W., I gave over plying, and bore up along the out-fide of the reef, fleering N. N. W., N. W., and N. W. by W„ as it trended. At noon, the Iiland of Balabea bore S. by W., diftant thirteen miles; and what we judged to be the well end of the great land, bore S. W. 7 S., and the direction of the reef was N. W. by W., latitude obferved 19° 53' 20". Longitude from Obfcrvatory Ifle 14' W. We continued to fleer N. W. by W. along the outfidc of the reef till three o'clock, at which time the Hie of Balabea bore S. by E. i E. In this direction we obferved a partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the flrong tide which fet out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the North, for three or four leagues, and then to N. W. We followed its direction, and as wc advanced to N. W., raifed more land, which feemed ' 8 t0 AND ROUND THE WORLD. 129 10 be connected with what we had feen before ; fo that Mr. 1774- . n r September. Gilbert was miftaken, and did not fee the extremity of the —„— coaft. At five o'clock this land bore W. by N. f N„ diftant TudHay !> twenty miles; but what we could fee of the reef trended in the direction of N. W. by N. Having hauled the wind on die (larboard tack, and fpent Wednef. i+. the night plying, on the 14th at fun-rife, the Ifland of Balabea bore S. 6° Eaft, and the land feen the preceding night Weft, but the reef ftill trended N. W., along which we fleered with a light breeze at E. S. E. At noon we obferved in latitude 190 28', longitude from Obfervatory Ifle 27' Weft. We had now no fight of Balabea; and the other land, that is, the N. W. part of it, bore W. by S. f S-, but we were not fure if this was one continued coaft, or feparate iflands. For though fome partitions were feen, from fpace to fpace, which made it look like the latter, a multitude of fhoals rendered a nearer approach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not impracticable. In the afternoon, with a fine breeze at E. S. E., we ranged the outfide of thefe fhoals, which we found to trend in the direction of N. W. by W., N. W. by N., and N. N. E. At three o'clock, wc pafTed a low fandy ifle, lying on the outer edge of the reef, in latitude 190 25', and in the direction of N. E. from the north-weftern-moft land, fix or feven leagues diftant. So much as we could fee of this fpace was ft re wed with fhoals, feemingly detached from each other; and the channel leading in amongft them, appeared to be on the S. E. fide of the fandy ifle \ at leafl there was a fpace where the fea did not break. At fun-fet, we could but jufl fee the land, which bore S. W. by S., about ten leagues diflant. A clear horizon produced the dif-covery of no land to the weftward of this direction; the Vol. II. S reef 1774- reef too trended away W. by N f N., and feemed to ter- Scptcniber. , . . . t \__N-1 minate in a point which was feen from the mail-head. Wcdne.14. jjlus every thing confpircd to make us believe that we lhould foon get round thefe fhoals; and with thefe flattering expectations we hauled the wind, which was at E. H* E., and fpent the night making fhort boards, Thurfday 15. Next morning at fun-rife, feeing neither land nor breaker^ we bore away N. W. by W., and two hours after faw the reef extending N. W. farther than the eye could reach; but no land was to be feen. It was therefore probable, that we had paffed its N. W. extremity ; and, as we had feen from the hills of Balade its extent to the S. W., it was neceffary to know how far it extended to the Eafl or S, E., while it was in our power to recover the coafl. For, by following the direction of the fhoals, wc might have been carried fo far to leeward as not to be able to beat back without eonfiderable lofs of time. We were already far out of fight of land ; and there was no knowing how much farther we might be carried, before we found an end to them. Thefe confiderations, together with the rifque we mufl run in exploring a fea flrewed with fhoals, and where no anchorage, without them, is to be found, induced me to abandon the defign of proceeding round by the N. W., and to ply up to the S. E., in which direction I knew there was a clear fea. With this view, we tacked and flood to the S. E., with the wind at N. E. by E., a gentle breeze. At this time we were in the latitude of 190 i S. longitude i6f si Eaft In Handing to S. E., we did but jufl weather the point of the reef we had pafTed the preceding evening. To make our fituation the more dangerous, the wind began to fail us ; and at three in the afternoon it fellcalm, and left us to the mercy mercy of a great fwell, fetting directly on the reef, which was hardly a league from us. Wc founded, but found no <—y—/ y ° . Thuiiday i bottom with a line of 200 fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoifled out to tow the fhip; but they were of little ufe againfl fo great a fwell. We, however, fouftd that the fhip did not draw near the reef fo faff as might be expected ; and at feven o'clock, a light air at N. N. E. kept her head to the fea ; but it laded no longer than midnight, when it was fucceeded by a dead calm. At day-break on the 16th, we had no fight of the reef; Friday 16. and at eleven, a breeze fpringing up at S. S. W., we hoifled in the boats, and made fail to S. E. At noon we obferved in *9° 35' South, which was confiderably more to the South than we expected, and fhewed that a current or tide had been in our favour all night, and accounted for our getting fo unexpectedly clear of the fhoals. At two o'clock P. M. we had again a calm which lafled till nine, when it was fucceeded by a light air from E. N. E. and Eafl, with which we advanced but flowlv. On the 17th at noon, we obferved in latitude 190 54', when Saturday the Ifle of Balabea bore S. 68° Well, ten and a half leagues didant. We continued to ply, with variable light winds between N. E. and S. E, without meeting with any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape Colnct bore N. Tu^ay 78° Well, diflant fix leagues. From this capet the land extended round by the South to E. S. E , till it was loft in the horizon ; and the country appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude obferved 200 41longitude made from Obfcrvatory Ifle i° 8' Eafl. Wc flood in fhore with a light breeze at Eafl till fun-fet, when we were between two and three leagues off. The coaft extended from S. 420 ~ Eafl to N. S 2 S9° Weft 1774. September. Tuefday zo. Wednef. 21. Thurfday Friday 23. 59° Weft. Two fmall iflots lay without this laft direction* diftant from us four or five miles; fome others lay between us and the fhore, and to the Eaft, where they feemed to be connected by reefs, in which appeared fome openings from fpace to fpace. The country was mountainous, and had much the fame afpect as about Balade. On one of the wcflern fmall ifles was an elevation like a tower; and, over a low neck of land within the ifle, were feen many other elevations refembling the mails of a fleet of mips. Next day at fun-rife, after having flood off all night with a light breeze at S. E., we found ourfelves about fix leagues from the coaft; and in this fituation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, when we got a faint land breeze at S. W., with which we fleered S. E. all night. On the izd at fun-rife, the land was clouded, but it was not long before the clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a good advance. At ten o'clock, the land-breeze being fucceeded by a fea-breeze at E. by S., this enabled us to ftand in for the land, which at noon extended from N. 780 Weft, to S. 3 if Eafl., round by the South. In this laft direction the coaft feemed to trend more to the South in a lofty promontory, which, on account of the day, received the name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2', longitude i6y° 7't Eafl. Some breakers lay between us and the fhore, and probably they were connected with thofe we had feen before. During the night we had advanced about two leagues to S. E.; and at day-break on the 23d, an elevated point appeared in fight beyond Cape Coronation, bearing S. 230 Eafl. It proved to be the S. E. extremity of the coafl, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. Latitude 220 16' S., longitude AND ROUND THE WORLD. 133 longitude 1670 14/ Eaft. About noon having; got a breeze „ *774« ° , September. from the N. E., we flood to S. S. E., and, as we drew towards —' Cape Coronation, faw in a valley to the South of it, a vaft 3" number of thofe elevated objects before mentioned; and fome low land under the Foreland was wholly covered with them. We could not agree in our opinions of what they were. Ifuppofed them to be a fingular fort of trees, being too numerous to refemble any thing elfe ; and a great deal of fmoke kept rifing all the day, from amongft thofe near the Cape. Our philofophers were of opinion that this was the fmoke of fome internal and perpetual fire. My reprefenting to them that there was no fmoke here in the morning, would have been of no avail, had not this eternal fire gone out before night, and no more fmoke been feen after. They were ftill more pofitive, that the elevations were pillars of Bafaltes, like thofe which compofe the Giant's Caufeway in Ireland. At fun-fet, the wind veering round to the South, we tacked and flood off, it not being fafe to approach the fhore in the dark. At day-break we flood in again, with a faint land- Saturday 24; breeze between E. S. E. and S. S. E. At noon obferved in latitude 210 59' 30", Cape Coronation bearing Weft foutherly, diflant feven leagues, and the Foreland S. 380 Well. As we advanced to S. S. W., the coaft beyond the Foreland began to. appear in fight; and, at fun-fet, we difcovered a low ifland lying S. S. E., about feven miles from the Forehnd. It was one of thofe which are generally furrouncled with fhoals and breakers. At the fame time a round hill was feen bearing S. 240 Eaft, twelve leagues diflant. During night having had variable light winds, we advanced but little either way. On the 25th, about ten o'clock A. M., having gota fair breeze Sund?y 2J at E. S. E„ we flood to S. S. W., in hopes of getting round 8 the. ^ 1774- the Foreland; but, as we drew near, we perceived more September. ( r J-*-' low ifles, beyond the one already mentioned, which at laft Sunday 25, appeared to be connected by breakers, extending towards the Foreland, and fecming to join the fhore. We flood on till half paft three o'clock, when we faw, from the deck, rocks, jufl peeping above the furface of the fea, on the fhoal above mentioned. It was now time to alter the courfe, as the day was too far fpent to look for a paffage near the more, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during the night. We therefore flood to the South, to look for a pafTage without the fmall ifles. Wc had a fine breeze at E. S. E., but it lafled no longer than five o'clock, when it fell to a dead calm. Having founded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach the bottom, though we were but a little way from the fhoals, which, inflcad of following the coafl to S. W., took a S. E. direction towards the hill we had feen the preceding evening, and feemed to point out to us that it was necefTary to go round that land. At this time the mofl advanced point on the main bore S. 68° Weft, diflant nine or ten leagues. About feven o'clock we got a light breeze at North, which enabled us to fleer out E. S. E., and to fpend the night with lefs anxiety. On fome of the low ifles were many of thofe elevations already mentioned. Every one was now fatisfied they were trees, except our philofophers; who flill maintained that they were Bafaltes. Monday 26. About day-break on the 26th, the wind having fhifted to S. S. W., we ftrctched to S. E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an ifland which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 70 Weft, diflant fix leagues. Latitude obferved 220 16' South. In the P. M. the wind frefhened, and veering to Tuefday z?t S. S. E., we flretchcd to the Eafl, till two A. M., on the 27th, when i?nxr VIEW US' THE ISLAND OF PINES, >"«/&tyrfFM*f'* fprcading branch like a bufh. This was what led fome onboard into the extravagant notion of their being Bafaltes;-indeed no one could think of finding fuch trees here. The feeds are produced in cones; but we could find none that, Had any in them, or that were in a proper flate for vegetation or botanical examination. Befides thefe, there was another tree or fhrub of the fpruce fir kind; but it was very fmall. We alfo found on the iile a fort of fcurvy-grafs, and: a plant, called by us Lamb's Quarters, which, when boiled, eat like fpinnage, Having got ten or twelve fmall fpars to make fludding fail. booms, boats-mafls, &c\, and night approaching, we returned with them on boards The purpofe for which I anchored under this ifle being" anfwered, I was now to confider what was next to be done.- We AND ROUND THE WORLD. t< Wc had, from the top-mafl head, taken a view of the fea 1774- , Sc:r!tcaii)ci around us, and obferved the whole, to the Wed, to be ftrcwed <-—*— with fmall iflots, fand-banks, and breakers, to the utmoft llluria^i extent of our horizon.. They feemed indeed not to be all connected, and to be divided by winding channels. But "when I confidered, that the extent of this S. W. coafl: was already pretty well determined; the great rifque attending a more accurate furvey ; and the time it would require to ac-complifh it, on account of the many dangers we mould have to encounter;. I determined not to hazard the fhip down to leeward, where we might be fo hemmed in as to find it difficult to return, and by that means lofe the proper feafon for getting to the South. I now wifhed to have had the little veflel fet up, the frame of which we had on board. I had fome thoughts of doing this, when we were laft at Otaheitc, but found it could not be executed, without neglecting the caulking and other neceflary repairs of the fhip, or flaying longer there than the route I had in view would admit. It was now too late to begin fetting her up, and then to ufe her in exploring this coall; and in our voyage to the South, fhe could be of no fervice. Thefe reafons induced me to try to get without the fhoals ; that is, to the fouthward of them. Next morning, at day-break, we got under fail with a light Friday 30. breeze at E. by N. We had to make fome trips to weather the fhoals to leeward of Botany Ifle; but when this was done the breeze began to fail; and at three P. M. it fell calm. The fwell, affifled by the current, fet us fafl to S. W. towards ♦he breakers, which were yet in fight in that direction. Thus we continued till ten o'clock, at which time a breeze fpring-ing up at N. N. W. we fleered E. S. E.; the contrary courfe we 1774. we had come in; not daring to fleer farther South till day- September, .. , ^JL_j light. Friday 30. oaober. At three o'clock next morning, the wind veered to S. W.f Saturday 1. blew hard, and in fqualls, attended with rain, which made it neceflary to proceed with our courfes up and topfails on the cap, till day-break, when the hill on the Ifle of Pines bore North; and our diftance from the fhore, in that direction, was about four leagues. We had now a very flrong wind at S. S. W. attended by a great fea, fo that we had reafon to rejoice at having got clear of the fhoals before this gale overtook us. Though every thing confpired to make me think this was the wefterly monfoon, it can hardly be comprehended under that name, for feveral reafons ; firfl, becaufe it was near a month too foon for thefe winds; fe-xondly, becaufe we know not if they reach this place at all; and laflly, becaufe it is very common for wefterly winds to blow within the tropics. However, I never found them to blow fo hard before, or fo far foutherly. Be thefe things as they may, we had now no other choice but to flretch toS. E., which we accordingly did with our flarboard tacks aboard ; and at noon were out of fight of land. Sunday 2. The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at which time we obferved in latitude 230 18', longitude made from the Ifle of Pines i° 54' Ea^- fo the afternoon, we had little wind from the South, and a great fwell from the fame direction ; and many boobies, tropic, and men of war birds were feen. At eleven o'clock a frefh breeze fprung up at W. by S. |With which we flood to the South. At this time we were in the latitude of 230 18', longitude 1-69° 169° 49' E., and about forty-two leagues fouth of the He- *774* brides, u—y-*lr At eight o'clock in the morning, on the third, the wind Mond*y 3« veered to S. W., and blew a flrong gale by fqualls, attended with rain. I now gave over all thought of returning to the land we had left. Indeed when I confidered the vafl ocean we had to explore to the South; the flate and condition of the fhip already in want of fome neceffary flores; that Summer was approaching fait; and that any conftderable accident might detain us in this fea another year; I did not. think it advifeable to attempt to regain the land. Thus I was obliged, as it were by ncceffity, for the firfl time, to leave a coafl I had difcovered, before it was fully explored.—I called it New Caledonia ; and, if we except New Zealand, it is perhaps *he largefl ifland in the South Pacific Ocean. For it extends from the latitude of 190 37', to 220 30', S., and from the longitude of 1630 37', to 1670 14' E. It lies nearly N. W. 4 W. and S. E. f E., and is about eighty-feven leagues long in that direction; but its breadth is not confiV derable, not any where exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full of hills and valleys, of various extent both for height and depth. To judge of the whole by the parts we were on, from thefe hills fpring vafl numbers of little rivulets, which greatly contribute to fertilize the plains, and to fupply all the wants of the inhabitants. The fummits of mofl of the hills feem to be barren ; though fome few are clothed with wood ; as are all the plains and valleys. By reafon of thefe hills, many parts of the coaft, when at a diftance from it, appeared indented, or to have great inlets between the hills; but> 1774- but, when we came near the fhore, we always found fuch October. in '--» places fliut up with low land, and alfo obferved low land to y 3* lie along the coaft between the fea-fhore and the foot of the hills. As this was the cafe in all fuch parts as we came near enough to fee, it is reafon able to fuppofe that the whole coafl is fo. I am likewife of opinion, that the whole, or greatefl part, is furrounded by reefs or fhoals, which render the ac-cefs to it very dangerous, but at the fame time guard the coafl from the violence of the wind and fea; make it abound with fifh ; fecure an eafy and fafe navigation along it, for canoes, &rc.; and, mofl likely, form fome good harbours for fhipping. Moft, if not every part of the coafl, is inhabited,' the Ifle of Pines not excepted ; for wc faw either fmoke by day, or fires by night, wherever we came. In the extent which I have given to this ifland, is included the broken or unconnected lands to the N. W. as they are delineated in the chart. That they may be connected, I fhall not pretend to deny ; we were however of opinion that they were ifles, and that New Caledonia terminated more to S. E.; though this, at moft, is but a well-founded conjecture. T3ut whether thefe lands be feparate ifles, or connected with New Caledonia, it is by no means certain that we faw their termination to the Weft. I think we did not; as the fhoals did not end with the land we faw, but kept their N. W. direction farther than Bougainville's track in the latitude of 150 or 150 4- Nay, it feems not improbable, that a chain of ifles, fand banks, and reefs, may extend to the <• Weft, as far as the coafl of New South Wales. The eaftern extent of the ifles and fhoals off that coaft, between the latitude of 150 and 230, were not known. The femblance of the % two two countries; f Bougainville's meeting with the fhoal of Diana above fixty leagues from the coafl; and the figns he had of land to the S. E.; ail tend to increafe the probability. I mufl confefs that it is carrying probability and conjecture a little too far, to fay what may lie in a fpace of two hundred leagues; but it is in fome meafure neceffary, were it only to put fome future navigator on his guard. Mr. Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we explored, by ninety-fix fets of obfervations, which were reduced to one another by our trufly guide the watch. T found the variation of the compafs to be io° 24' E. This is the mean variation given by the three azimuth com-paffes we had on board, which would differ from each other a degree and an half, and fometimes more. I did not obferve any difference in the variation between the N. W. and S. E. parts of this land, except when we were at anchor before Balade, where it was lefs than io°; but this I did not regard, as I found fuch an uniformity out at fea ; and it is there where navigators want to know the variation. While we were on the N. E. coafl, I thought the currents fet to S. E„ and Weft or N. W. on the other fide ; but they are by no means confiderable, and may, as probably, be channels of tides, as regular currents. In the narrow channels which divide the fhoals, and thofe which communicate with the fea, the tides run flrong; but their rife and fall are inconfiderable, not exceeding three feet and an half. The time of high water, at the full and change, at Balade, is about fix o'clock ; but at Botany Ifle we judged it would happen about ten or eleven o'clock. f 5ej his Voyage, EngHfh Tratvflaiion, p. 303, Vol. II. u C H A P. CHAP. XI. Sequel of the Paffage from New Caledonia to New Zealand^ with an account of the Difcovery of Norfolk If and; and the Incidents that happened while the Ship lay in Sbmn Charlottes Sound. '774- HP H E Wlnd COntinilinS at S' W> W* S' W-> and Weft> October. JL blowing a frefli gale, and now and then fqualls, with Thurfday 6. fhowcrs of rain, we fleered to S. S. E., without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the Gth, when it fell calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 270 50' S., longitude 171° 43' Eafl. The calm continued till noon the next day, during which time we obferved the variation to be io° 33' ~ Eafl. I now ordered the carpenters to work to caulk the decks. As we had neither pitch, tar, nor rofin, left to pay the feams, this was done with varnifli of pine, and afterwards covered with coral fand, which made a cement far exceeding my expectation. In the afternoon, we had a boat in the water, and fhot two albatroffes, which were geefe to us. Wc had feen one of this kind of birds the day before, which was the firfl we obferved fincc wc had been within the Friday 7. tropic. On the 7th, at one P. M. a breeze fprung up at South ; foon after it veered to, and fixed at S. E. by S., and blew a gentle gale, attended with pleafant weather. Saturday 8, We flretchcd to W. S. W., and next day at noon were in the latitude of 280 25', longitude 1700 06' Eafl. In the 2 evening. ■I-J Norfolk Isle Lat _'<) <>_' S Longit........i(>8 . i(j oo a Greenwich Noti- The /'ii.A.-j Line ..•///«•.•■/A ShipJ Thick /A/ 'iifurt.< t/h Depth ofKtterM Tafame Oct /$ jjji 11 It .11 Scale of Miles. evening, Mr. Cooper having flruck a porpoife with a har- J774 poon, it was neceffary to bring to, and have two boats out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was fix feet long; a female of that kind, which naturalifls call dolphin of the antients, and which differs from the other kind of porpoife in the head and jaw, having them long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The haflet and lean flefh were to us a feafl. The latter was a little liverifh, but had not the leafl iifhy talte. It was eaten roafled, broiled, and fryed, firfl foaking it in warm water. Indeed, little art was wanting to make any thing frefli, palatable to thofe who had been living fo long on fait meat. We continued to ftretch to W. S. W. till the 10th, when, Monday 10. at day-break, we difcovered land, bearing S. W., which on a nearer approach we found to be an ifland of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it Norfolk Ifle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is fituated in the latitude of 290 z' 30' S. and longitude 1680 16' Eafl. The latter was determined by lunar obfervations made on this, the preceding, and following days; and the former, by a good obfervation at noon, when we were about three miles from the ifle. Soon after we difcovered the ifle, we founded in twenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral fand; after this we continued to found, and found not lefs than twenty-two, or more than twenty-four fathoms (except near the fhore), and the fame bottom mixed with broken fhells. After dinner, a party of us embarked in two boats, and landed on the ifland, without any difficulty, behind fome large rocks which lined part of the coafl, on the N. E. fide. U 3 Wc oaobt'r ^e ^ound lC uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the y—firfl that ever fet foot on it. We obferved many trees and Monday 10. , J plants common at New Zealand; and, in particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that country ; but the chief produce is a fort of fpruce pine, which grows in great abundance, and to a large fize, many of the trees being as thick, breaft high, as two men could fathom, and exceedingly flraight and tall. This pine is of a fort between thac which grows in New Zealand, and that in New Caledonia ; the foliage differing fomething from both; and the wood not fo heavy as the former, nor fo light and clofe-grained as the latter. It is a good deal like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards from the fhore, the ground is covered fo thick with fhrubs and plants, as hardly to be penetrated farther inland. The woods were perfectly cleat and free from underwood, and the foil feemed rich and deep. We found the fame kind of pigeons, parrots, and parro-quets as in New Zealand, rails, and fome fmall birds. The fea fowl are, white boobies, gulls, tern, 8cc. which breed undiflurbed on the mores, and in the cliffs of the rocks. On the ifle is frefh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-forrel, fow-thiftle, and famphire abounding in fome places on the fhores, we brought on board as much of each fort as the time we had to gather them would admit. Thefe cabbage-trees or palms, were not thicker than a man's leg, and from ten to twenty feet high. They are of the fame genus with the cocoa-nut tree ; like it they have large pinnated leaves,* and are the fame as the fecond fort found in the northern parts of New South Wales * The cabbage is, properly * Vide liawkefworth's Voyages, Vol, HI. Page 624> fpeak- fpcaking, the bud of the tree ; each tree producing but one W4». cabbage, which is at the crown, where the leaves fpring out, '—-v—/ ... Monday io* and is inclofed in the Hem. The cutting off the cabbage effectually dcflroys the tree ; fo that no more than one can be had from the fame ffern. The cocoa-nut tree, and fome others of the palm kind, produce cabbage as well as thefe. This vegetable is not only wholcfome, but exceedingly palatable, and proved the mofl agreeable repail we had for fome time. The coafl does not want fifh. While we were on fhorer the people in the boats caught fome which were excellent* I judged that it was high water at the full'and change, about one o'clock; and that the tide rifes and falls upon a perpendicular about four or five feet. The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoifled in the boats ; and flretching to E. N. E. (with the wind at S. E.) till midnight, we tacked, and fpent the remainder of the night making fhort boards, Next morning at fun-rife, we made fail, flretching to Tuefday n, S. S. W., and weathered the ifland j on-the fouth fide of which lie two ifles, that ferve as roofling and breeding-places for birds. On this, as alfo on the S. E. fide, is a fandy beach; whereas mofl of the other fhores are bounded by rocky cliffs which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water clofe to them; at leafl fo we found it on the N. E. fide, and with good anchorage. A bank of coral fand, mixed with fhells, on which we found from nineteen to thirty-five or forty fathoms water, furrounds the ifle, and extends, efpecially to the South, feven leagues off. The morning we difcovered the ifland, the 1774-Oftober. the variation was found to be 130 9' E. j but I think this ob~ / fervation gave too much, as others, which we had both before Tuefday u. and after, gave 20 lefs. After leaving Norfolk Ifle, I fleered for New Zealand, my intention being to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to re-frefli my crew, and put the fhip in a condition to encounter the fouthern latitudes. Monday 17. On the 17th, at day-break, we faw Mount Egmont, which was covered with everlafling fnow, bearing S. E. ~ E. Our diflance from the more was about eight leagues, and, on founding, we found feventy fathoms water, a muddy bottom. The wind foon fixed in the weflern board, and blew a frefli gale, with which we fleered S. S. E., for Queen Charlotte's Sound, with a view of falling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore E. N. E., diflant three or four leagues > and though the mount was hid in the clouds, we judged it to be in the fame direction as the Cape ; latitude obferved 390 24'. The wind increafed in fuch a manner as to oblige us to clofe reef our top-fails, and flrike top-gallant yards. At lafl we could bear no more fail than the two courfes, and two clofe-reefed top-fails ; and under them we flretched for Cape Stephens, which we made at eleven o'clock at night. At midnight we tacked and made a trip to the North till Tuefday 18. three o'clock next morning, when we bore away for the found. At nine wc hauled round Point Jackfon through a fea which looked terrible, occafioned by a rapid tide, and a high wind; but as we knew the coafl, it did not alarm us. At eleven o'clock we anchored before Ship Cove; the flrong flurries from off the land not permitting us to get in. In In the afternoon, as we could not move the fhip, I went *774» into the Cove, with the feine, to try to catch fome fifh. The <-,—~» firfl thing I did after landing, was to look for the bottle I left Tuefday ,8' hid when laft here, in which was the memorandum. It was taken away; but by whom it did not appear. Two hauls with the feine producing only four fmall fifh, we, in fome meafure, made up for this deficiency, by fhooting feveral birds, which the flowers in the garden had drawn thither, as alfo fome old fhags, and by robbing the nefls of fome young ones. Being little wind next morning, we weighed and warped Wednef. the fhip into the Cove, and there moored with the two bowers. We unbent the fails to repair them ; feveral having been fplit, and otherwife damaged in the late gale. The main and fore courfes, already worn to the very utmofl, were condemned as ufclefs. I ordered the top-mafis to be flruck and unrigged, in order to fix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of which the treflle-trees were continually breaking ; the forge to be fet up, to make bolts and repair our iron-work ; and tents to be erected on fhore for the reception of a guard, coopers, fail-makers, &c. I likewife gave orders that vegetables (of which there were plenty) mould be boiled every morning with oat-meal and portable broth for breakfafl, and with peas and broth every day for dinner for the whole crew, over and above their ufual allowance of fait meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was fetting up his obferva-tory, he difcovered that feveral trees, which were Handing when we laft failed from this place, had been cut down with faws and axes; and a few days after, the place where an obfer-vatory, clock, &c. had been fet up, was alfo found, in a fpor different TO Odtober. Wednef. 19. different from that where Mr. Wales had placed his. It was therefore now no longer to be doubted, that the Adventure had been in this Cove after we had left it. Thurfday 20. Next day, winds foutherly; hazy cloudy weather. Every body went to work at their refpective employments, one of which was to caulk the fhip's fides, a thing much wanted. The feams were paid with putty, made with cook's fat and chalk ; the gunner happening to have a quantity of the latter on board. rrid.y si, The sift, wind foutherly, with continual rains. Saturday 22; The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by the botanifts, I vifited our gardens on Motuara, which we found almoft in a ftate of nature, having been wholly neglected by the inhabitants. Neverthelefs, many articles were in a flourifhing condition, and mewed how well they liked the foil in which they were planted. None of the natives having yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of the iiland ; in hopes, if they faw the fmoke, they might be induced to come to us. Monday 24. Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two canoes were feen coming down the found; but as foon as they perceived the, fhip, they retired behind a point on the weft fide. After f/reakfaft I went in a boat to look for them; and as we proceeded along the fhore, we fliot feveral birds. The report of the mufquets gave notice of our approach, and the natives difcovered themfclves in Shag Cove by hallooing to us j but as we drew near to their habitations, they all fled to the woods, except two or three men, who flood on a rifing ground near the fhore, with their arms in their hands. The moment we landed, they knew us. Joy MAJV OF >TE¥ . EnA-ovH ~ty Michel- 8475979033526^6571 152355101589843459804709219 **rawn from Nature V.Hodgfcl N ? iatit. PuMuhed fttf?t$f?7%ty H'"'Stranan in tfm Sired k T/„>'.'GtdeJtm ///<■ Strand J.crufon. Joy then took place of fear ; and the reft of the natives hur- 1774. ried out of the woods, and embraced us over and over again, — leaping and fkipping about like madmen; but I obferved °" ayZf* that they would not fuffer fome women, whom we faw at a diftance, to come near us. After we had made them pre-fents of hatchets, knives, and what elfe we had with us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fifh, which they had jufl caught. There were only a few amongft them whofe faces we could recognife; and oriour aiking why they were afraid of us, and inquiring for fome of our old acquaintances by name, they talked much about killing, which was fo varioufiy underftood by us, that we could gather nothing from it; fo that, after a fhort flay, we took leave, and went on board. Next morning early, our friends, according to a promife Tuefday 2,-. they had made us the preceding evening, paying us a vifit? brought with them a quantity of fine fifh, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, 8cc. and then returned to their habitations. On the 26th, we got into the after-hold four boat-load of Wednef.26. mingle ballad, and flruck down fix guns, keeping only fix on deck. Our good friends the natives having brought us a plentiful fupply of fifh, afterwards went on fhore to the tents, and informed our people there, that a fhip like ours had been lately loft in the Strait; that fome of the people got on fhore ; and that the natives flole their cloaths, &c. for which feveral were fhot; that afterwards, when they could fire no longer, the natives having got the better, killed them with dieir Patapatoos, and eat them ; but that they themfclves had no hand in the affair, which, they faid, happened at Vanna Aroa, near Tcerawhittc, on the other fide of the Vol. II. , X Strait. oaobtr Strait. ®nc man 2t was two moons ago; but anotlier '-,-' contradicted him, and counted on his fingers about twenty or thirty days. They defcnbed by actions how the fhip was beat to pieces, by going up and down againfl the rocks, till at laft it was all fcattered abroad. Thurfday 27. The next day fome others told the fame ftory, or nearly to he fame purport, and pointed over the Eaft Bay, which is on the eaft fide of the Sound, as to the place where it happened. Thefe ftories making me very uneafy about the Adventure, I defired Mr. Wales, and thofe on fhore, to let me know if any of the natives mould mention it again, or to fend them to me; for I had not heard any thing from them my-felf. When Mr. Wales came on board to dinner, he found the very people who had told him the ftory on fhore, and pointed them out to me. I inquired about the affair, and endeavoured to come at the truth by every method 1 could think of. All I could get from them was, Canrey (no); and they not only denied every fyllable of what they had faid on fhore, but feemed wholly ignorant of the matter; fo that I began to think our people had mifunderftood them, and that the ftory referred to fome of their own people and boats. Friday 28. °n ^rem Sa^cs wefterly, and fair weather. We rigged and fitted the top-marts. Having gone on a mooting-party to Weft Bay, we went to the place where I left the hogs and fowls; but faw no veftigesof them, nor of any body having been there fincc. In our return, having vifited the natives, we got fome fifh in exchange for trifles which we gave them. As wc were coming away, Mr. Forfter thought he heard the fqucaking of a pig in the woods, clofe by their habitations ; probably, they may have thofe 1 left with them when laft here. In the evening, we got on board, with about about a dozen and an half of wild-fowl, fhags, and fea-pies. '774* t>!_ r n ■ October. fhe fportfmen who had been out in the woods near the flnp, c_— were more fuccefsful among the fmall birds. On the 29th and 30th, nothing remarkable happened, ex- ^'"J^ *9' ccpt that in the evening of the latter all the natives left us. The 31ft being a fine pleafant day, our botanifts went over Monday 3«* to Long Ifland, where one of the party faw a large black boar. As it was defcribed to me, I thought it might be one of thofe which Captain Furneaux left behind, and had been brought over to this ifle by thofe who had it in keeping. Since they did not deflroy thofe hogs when firfl in their poflcflion, we cannot fuppofe they wall do it now ; fo that there is little fear but that this country will, in time, be flocked with thefe animals, both in a wild and domeflic ftatc. Next day, we were vifited by a number of flrangers, who November, came from up the Sound, and brought with them but little UCfday *' fifh. Their chief commodity was green flone or talk, an article which never came to a bad market; and fome of the largefl pieces of it I had ever feen, were got this day. On the 2d, I went over to the eafl fide of the Sound, and, Wednef. 2: without meeting any thing remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I learnt that the fame people who vifited us the preceding day, had been on board mofl of this, with their ufual article of trade. On the 3d, Mr. Pickerfgill met with fome of the natives, Thurfday 3. who related to him the flory of a fhip being loft, and the people being killed; but added, with great earneflnefs, it was not done by them. On Nolmter. 0n lhe 4tri> fine pleafant weather. Moft of the natives FrldP--1 n0W rctirec^ UP tne Sound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle method to oblige them to be gone ; forfince thefe new-comers had been with us, our old friends had difappearcd, and we had been without fifh. Having gone over to Long Ifland, to look for the hog which had been feen there, I found it to be one of the fows left by Captain Furneaux; the fame that was in the polleffion of the natives when we were laft here. From a fuppofition of its being a boar, I had carried over a fbw to leave with him ; but on feeing my miftakc, brought her back, as the leaving her there would anfwer no end. Saturday 5; Early in the morning of the 5th, our old friends made us a vifit, and brought a feafonable fupply of fifh. At the fame time I embarked in the pinnace, with Meffrs. Forfters and Spearman, in order to proceed up the Sound. I was defirous Of finding the termination of it; or rather of feeing if I could find any paffage out to fea by the S. E., as I fufpecled from fome difcoveries I had made when firfl here. In our way up, we met with fome fifhers, of whom we made the neceffary inquiry; and they all agreed that there was no paffage to fea by the head of the Sound. As we proceeded, wc, fome time after, met a canoe conducted by four men coming down the Sound. Thefe confirmed what the others had laid, in regard to there being no paffagc to fea the way we were going; but gave us to underftand that there was one to the Eaft, in the very place where I expected to find it. I now laid afide the fcheme of going to the head of the Sound, and proceeded to this arm, which is on the S. E. fide, about four or five leagues above the Ifle of Motuara. A little within the entrance on the S. E. fide, at a place called Kotieghenooce, we found a large fettlement of the na- 7 tives. AND ROUND THE WORLD. i5; lives. The chief, whofe name was Tringo-boohce, and his r J774- i_ r November. people, whom wc found to be fome of thofe who had lately *-„-» been on board the fhip, received us with great courtcfy. au' Jy 5* They feemed to be pretty numerous both here and in the neighbourhood. Our flay with them was fhort, as the information they gave us encouraged us to purfue the object we had in view. Accordingly we proceeded down the arm E. N. E. and E. by N., leaving feveral fine coves on both fides, and at lad found it to open into the Strait by a channel about a mile wide, in which ran out a flrong tide ; having alfo obferved one letting down the arm, all the time we had been in it. It was now about four o'clock in the afternoon ; and in lefs than an hour after, this tide ccafed, and was fucceed-ed by the flood, which came in with equal flrength. The outlet lies S. E. by E. and N. W. by W.; and nearly in the direction of E. S. E. and W. N. W. from Cape Tcrra-whitte. Wc found thirteen fathoms water a little within the entrance, clear ground. It feemed to me that a leading wind was neceflary to go in and out of this paffage, on account of the rapidity of the tides. I, however, had but little time to make obfervations of this nature, as night was at hand, and I had refolved to return on board. On that account, I omitted vifiting a large Hippa, or flrong-hold, built on an elevation on the north fide, and about a mile or two within the entrance. The inhabitants of it, by figns, invited us to go to them ; but, without paying any regard to them, we proceeded directly for the fhip, which we reached by ten o'clock, bringing with us fome fifh we had got from the natives, and a few birds we had fhot. Amongit the latter were fome of the fame kind of ducks wc found in Dufky Bay; and we have reafon to believe that they are all to be met with i here. 1774- here. For the natives knew them all by the drawings, and November. .... r 1 »-y-' had a particular name for each. Sunday 6. On the 6th, wind at N. E., gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends having taken up their abode near us* one of them, whofe name was Pcdero (a man of fome note), made me a prefent of a Raff of honour, fuch as the chiefs generally carry. In return, I dreffed him in a fuit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine perfon, and a good prefence, and nothing but his colour diftinguifh-ed him from an European. Having got him, and another, into a communicative mood, wc began to inquire of them if the Adventure had been there during my abfence; and they gave us to underftand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that, foon after we were gone, fhe arrived, that flie ftaid between ten and twenty days, and had been gone ten months. They likewife aliened that neither fhe, nor any other fhip, had been ftranded on the coaft, as had been reported. This affertion, and the manner in which they related the coming and going of the Adventure, made me eafy about her; but did not wholly fet afidc our fufpicions of a difafter having happened to fome other ftrangers. Befides what has been already related, we had been told that a fhip had lately been here, and was gone to a place called Terato, which is on the north fide of the Strait. Whether this flory related to the former or no, I cannot fay. Whenever I queftioned the natives about it, they always denied all knowledge of it; and for fome time paft, had avoided mentioning it. It was but a few days before, that one man received a box on the ear for naming it to fome of our people. After breakfaft, I took a number of hands over to Long-Ifland, in order to catch the fow, to put her to the boar, and remove remove her to fome other place; but we returned without *774 feeing her. Some of the natives had been there not long <-/——> before us, as their fires were yet burning; and they had Sunday undoubtedly taken her away. Pedero dined with us, eat of every thing at table, and drank more wine than any one of us, without being in the leafl affected by it. The 7th, frefli gales at N. E., with continual rain. Monday The 8th, fore-part rain, remainder fair weather. We put Tuefday two pigs, a boar and a fow, on fhore, in the cove next without Cannibal Cove; fo that it is hardly poflible all the methods I have taken to flock this country with thefe animals mould fail. We had alfo reafon to believe that fome of the cocks and hens which I left here flill exiflcd, although we had not feen any of them ; for an hen's egg was, fome days before, found in the woods almofl new laid. On the gth, wind wefterly or N. W., fqually, with rain. In Wednef. the morning we unmoored, and fhifted our birth farther out of the cove, for the more ready getting to fea the next morning; for, at prefent, the caulkers had not finifhed the fides, and till this work was done we could not fail. Our friends having brought us a very large and feafbnable fup-ply of fifh, I beflowed on Pedero a prefent of an empty oil-jar, which made him as happy as a prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and retired to their proper place of abode, with all the trcafure they had received from us. I believe that they gave away many of the things they, at different times, got from us, to their friends, and neighbours, or elfe parted with them to purchafe peace of their more powerful enemies; for we never faw any of our prefents after they were once in their poffefTion; and every time we vifited them they were as much in want of hatchets, nails, i~74- Sec. to all appearance, as if they never had had any among November. «-,-1 them. WeJneiJ. (j. I am fatisficd that the people in this Sound, who are, upon the whole, pretty numerous, are under no regular form of government, or fo united as to form one body politic. The head of each tribe, or family, feems to be refpectcd; and that refpect may, on fome occafions, command obedience; but I doubt if any amongft them have either a right or power to enforce it. The day we were with Tringo-boohee, the people came from all parts to fee us, which he endeavoured to prevent, but though he went fo far as to throw Hones at fome, I obferved that very few paid any regard either to his words or actions; and yet this man was fpoken of as a chief of fome note. I have, before, made fome remarks on the evils attending thefe people for want of union among themfclves; and the more I was acquainted with them, the more I found it to be fo. Notwithflanding they are cannibals, they are naturally of a good difpofition, and have not a little humanity. In the afternoon a party of us went afhore into one of the coves, where were two families of the natives varioufly employed ■> fome flceping, fome making mats, others roafl-ing fifh and fir roots, and one girl, I obferved, was heating of flones. Curious to know what they were for, I remained near her. As foon as the flones were made hot, flic took them out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was fitting in the hut. She placed them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green cellery, and over that a coarfe mat, and then fquattcd herfelf down, on her heels, on the top of all; thus making a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which (lie fat as clofe as a hare on her feat. 1 fhould hardly have mentioned mentioned this operation, if I had thought it had no other view N*774« than to warm the old woman's backfide. I rather fuppofe it <-- was intended to cure fome diforder flie might have on her, which the fleams arifing from die green cellcry might be a fpecific for. I was led to think fo by there being hardly any •ccllery in the place, we having gathered it long before; and grafs, of which there was great plenty, would have kept the flones from burning the mat full as well, if that had been all that was meant. Befides, the woman looked to me fickly, and not in a good Rate of health. Mr. Wales, from time to time communicated to me the obfervations he had made in this Sound for determining the longitude, the mean refults of which give 174° 25' 7 Kali, for the bottom of Ship Cove, where the obfervations were made; and the latitude of it is 410 5' 56"-; South. In my chart, conftituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in 1840 54' 30" Weft, equal to 1750 5' 30" Eaft. The error of the chart is therefore, o° 40' o", and nearly equal to what was found at Dufky Bay; by which it appears that the whole of Tavai-poenammoo, is laid down 40' too far Eaft in the faid chart, as well as in the journal of the voyage. But the error in Eahei-no-mauwe, is not more than half a degree, or thirty minutes; becaufe the diftance between Queen Charlotte's Sound and Cape Pallifer has been found to be greater by 10' of longitude than it is laid down in the chart. I mention thefe errors, not from a fear that they will affect either navigation or geography, but becaufe I have no doubt of their exiftence ; for, from the multitude of obfervations which Mr. Wales took, the fituation of few parts of the world is better afecrtained than Queen Charlotte's Sound. Indeed, I might, with equal truth, fay the Vol. II. Y fame 1774* fame of all the other places where wc made any flay; for avember, Mr. Wales, whofe abilities are equal to his afliduity, loft no Ene*9* one obfervation that could poflibly be obtained. Even the fituation of thofe iilands which we paffed without touching at them, is, by means of Kendal's watch, determined with almoft equal accuracy. The error of the watch from Ota-heite to this place was only 43' 39" | in longitude, reckoning at the rate it was found to go at? at that iiland and at Tanna; but by reckoning at the rate it was going when laft at Queen Charlotte's Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to our return to it again, which was near a year, the error was 19' 31", 25 in time, or 40 52''48" $ in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if we confider the length of time, and that we had gone over a fpace equal to upwards of three-fourths of the equatorial circumference of the earth, and through all the climates and latitudes from 90 to 710. Mr. Wales found its rate of going here to be that of gaining 12", 576, on mean time, per day. The mean refult of all the obfervations he made for afcertaining the variation of the compafs and the dip of the fouth end of the needle, the three feveral times we had been here, gave 140 9' -f Eaft for the former; and 640 36" * for the latter. He alfo found, from very accurate obfervations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon's fouthing,on the full and change days, by three hours; and that the greateft rife and fall- of the water was five feet ten inches and an half; but there were evident tokens on the beach, of its having rifen two feet higher than it ever did in the courfe of his experiments. A V O Y- VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND PvOUND THE WORLD. BOOK IV. From leaving New Zealand to our Return to England. CHAP. I. The Run from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego> with the Range from Cape Defeada to Chrifmas Sound, and Defcription of that Part of the Coafl. .A T day-break on the ioth, with a fine breeze at * 7 74- W. N. W. we weighed and flood out of the Sound; November, and, after getting round the Two Brothers, fleered Th^SkHl for Cape Campbell, which is at the S. W. entrance of the Strait, all fails fet, with a fine breeze at North. At four in the afternoon, we paffed the Cape, at the diftance of four or five leagues, and then fleered S. S. E. E. with the wind at N. W., a gentle gale, and cloudy weather. Y 2 * Next 1774* Next morning, the wind veered round by the Weft to- November. _v-_1 South, and forced us more to the Eaft than I intended. At Fnddyii. ^even 0'cioc]£ m tne evening, the fnowy mountains bore W.. by S., and Cape Pallifer North ~ Weft, diftant fixteen or feventeen leagues; from which Cape I, for the third time*, took my departure. After a few hours calm, a breeze fpringing-up at North, we fleered S. by E., all fails fet, with a view of getting into the latitude of 540 or 550; my intention being to crofs this vafl ocean nearly in thefe parallels, and fo as to pafs over thofe parts which were left unexplored; the preceding fummer. Saturday 12. In the morning of the i2tli, the wind increafed to a fine gale ; at noon we obferved in latitude 430 13' 30" S., longitude 176° 41' Eaft; an extraordinary fifh of the whale kind was feen, which fome called a fea monfter. I did not fee it my--felf. In the afternoon, our old companions the pintado* petercls began to appear. ■Sunday 13 °n me J3tn' *n the morn*n£« me wind veered to \V. S..W; At feven, feeing the appearance of land to the S. W., we-hauled up towards it, and foon found it to be a. fog-bank.. Afterwards we fleered S. E. by S. and foon after faw a feah At noon, latitude, by account, 440 25', longitude 1770 3/ Eafl. Foggy weather, which continued all the afternoon. At fix in the evening the wind veered to N. E. by N., and increafed to a frefli gale, attended with thick hazy weather j courfe fleered S. E. £ S. Monday 14. On the 14th, A.M., faw another feal. At noon, latitude 450 54', longitude 1790 29' Eaft. Tuefday is. On the 15th A. M. the wind veered to the weft ward; the fog cleared away, but the weather continued cloudy. At noon* noon, latitude 470 30', longitude 178° 19' Weft; for, having *774- 1 r/ " ° " . . November. palled the meridian of 1800 Eaft, I now reckon my longi- <- tude Weft of the firfl meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the r - Wednef. 16. evening heard penguins, and the next morning law iome fea or rock-weed. At noon a frefli gale from the Weft and fine weather. Latitude obferved 490 33', longitude 1750 .31' Weft. Next morning frefh gales and hazy weather; faw a feal Thurfday 17. and feveral pieces of weed. At noon, latitude 510 12', longitude 173° 17' Weft. The wind veered to the North and N. E. by N., blew a flrong gale by fqualls, which fplit an old top-gallant fail, and obliged us to double reef the top-fails ; but in the evening the wind moderated, and veered to W. N. W., when we loofed a reef out of each topfail; and found the variation of the compafs to be 90 52' E., being then in the latitude 510 47', longitude 1720 21' W. and the next morning FrUay l8> the 18th, in the latitude of 520 25', longitude i7o°45' Weft, it was io° 26'Eaft. Towards noon, had moderate but cloudy weather, and a great fwell from the Weft: fome penguins and pieces of fea-weed feen. On the 19th, fleered E. S. E., with a very frefli gale at Saturday 19, North, hazy dirty weather. At noon, latitude 53 0 43', longitude 1660 15' Weft. On the 20th, fleered E. by S., with a moderate breeze at Sunday 2Ci North, attended with thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8', longitude 1620 iff Weft. On the 21ft, winds moftly from the N. E., a frefli gale at- Monday«., tended with thick, hazy, dirty weather. Courfe S. E. by S.; latitude, at noon, 550 31', longitude 1600 29'; abundance c blue petercls and fome penguins feen. 4 ■ ■ Frefli 1774* Frefli gales at N. W. by N. and N. by W., and hazy till November. , •tit 1 1 v—■v~—; towards noon of the 22d, when the weather cleared up, and Tuerday22' we obferved in latitude 550 48' South, longitude 1560 56' Weft. In the afternoon had a few hours calm; after that, the wind came at S. S. E. and S. E. by S. a light breeze, with which we fleered Eaft northerly. In the night the aurora auftralis was vifible, but very faint, and no ways remarkable. Wednef. 23. On the 23d, in the latitude of 550 46' South, longitude 1560 13' Weft, the variation was 90 42' Eaft. We had a calm from ten in the morning till fix in the evening, when a breeze fprung up at Weft; at firft it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards frefhened. Our courfe was now E. 4N. Thurfday 24. On the 4th, a frefli breeze at N. W. by W. and N. by W. At noon, in latitude SS° 38' South, longitude 1530 37'Weft, Friday 25. foggy in the night, but next day had a fine gale at N. W., attended with clear pleafant weather; courfe fleered E. by N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 550 8' South, longitude 1480 10' Weft, the variation, by the mean of two compaffes, was 6° 35' 7 Eaft. Saturday 26 Having a fteady frefh gale at N. N. W. on the 26th and Sjnday 27. 27tu> wc Reefed fall; and at noon on the latter were in latitude 550 6' South, longitude 1380 56' Weft. I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came to a refolution to fleer directly for the weft entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view of coafting the out, or fouth fide of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait Le Maire. As the world has but a very imperfect knowledge of this fhore, I thought the coafting of it would be of more advantage, both to navigation and to geo-4 graphy, graphy, than any thing I could expect to find in a higher NJ7J74-latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the wind blew in \—— fqualls, and carried away the main top gallant maft. A very flrong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on Monday 28. the 28th, obliged us to double reef the fore and main top-fail, to hand the mizzen top-fail, and get down the fore topgallant yard. In the morning, the bolt rope of the main top-fail broke, and occafioned the fail to be fplit. I have obferved that the ropes to all our fails, the fquare fails efpecially, are not of a fize and flrength fufficicnt to wear out thecanvafs. At noon, latitude 55° 20' South, longitude 134° 16' Weil, a great fwell from N. W.; albatrofles and blue pe-terels feen. Next day towards noon, the wind abating, wc loofed all Tuefday.29. the reefs out of the top-fails, rigged another top gallant mad, and got the yards acrofs. P. M. little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued till noon the next day, when a breeze fprung up at Eafl, with which we Wednef. 30, flretched to the northward. At this time we were in the latitude 550 32' South, longitude 1280 45'Weil; fome alba-trolfes and peterels feen. At eight P. M. the wind veering to N. E. we tacked and Hood to E. S. E„ On the ifl of December, thick hazy weather, withd HZ- December, ling rain, and a moderate breeze of wind, which, at three Thurrda^ u o'clock P. M. fell to a calm ; at this time in latitude 550 41' South, longitude 1270 5' Weft. After four hours calm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S. E. with which we flood N. E. Next day, a frefh breeze at S. E. and hazy foggy weather, Friday 2, except a few hours in the morning, when we found the variation 1774. December, Sunday 4, Monday Tuefday 6. Wednef. 7. Friday 9. Saturday 10. nation to be i° 28' Eafl. Latitude 550 17', longitude 1250 41' Wefl. The variation after this, was fuppofed to increafe ; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude 530 21', longitude 121° 31' Wefl, it was 30 16' Eafl; in the evening, in latitude $$q 13', longitude 119° 46' Wefl, it was 30 s»8' Eafl; and on the 5th, at fix o'clock in the evening, in latitude 530 8', longitude 1150 58' Weft, it was 4? 1' Sunday 11, For more than twenty-four hours, having had a fine gale at South; this enabled us to fleer Eaft, with very little deviation to the North ; and the wind now altering to S. W. and blowing a fleady frefli breeze, we continued to fleer Eaft, inclining a little to South. On the 6th, had fome fnow fhowers. In the evening^ being in latitude 530 13', longitude in0 ia', the variation was 40 58' Eaft; and the next morning, being in latitude 580 16', longitude 1090 33'> lt was 5° t Eaft- The wind was now at Weft, a fine pleafant gale, fometimes with mowers of rain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in the latitude of 53° 37', longitude 1030 44' Weft, the wind veered to N. E., and afterwards came infenfibly round to the South, by the E,, and S. E., attended with cloudy hazy weather, and fome fhowers of rain. On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 540, longitude 1020 7' Weft, pafTed a fmall bed of fea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered toS. W-, blew a frefh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We fleered Eafl half a point North; and the next day, at fix in the evening, being in la-J titude titude 5,3° 35', longitude 950 £2! Weft, the variation was D*774-90 58' Eaft. Many and various forts of albatroffes about ^J^J^J the fhip. On the 12th, the wind veered to the Weft, N. W., and in Monday iz, the evening to North; and, at laft, left us to a calm: That continued till midnight, when we got a breeze at South ; which, foon after, veering to, and fixing at, Weft, we fleered Eaft; and on the 14th in the morning, found the variation wednef. 14. to be 130 25' Eaft, latitude 530 25', longitude 870 53' Weft ; and in the afternoon, being in the fame latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2' Weft, it was 150 3' Eaft, and increafed in fuch a manner, that on the 15th, in the latitude of Tbmtttj iS. 53° 30', longitude 820 23' Weft, it was 170 Eaft; and the next evening, in the latitude of 530 25', longitude 780 40', it was 170 38' Eaft. About this time, we faw a penguin and a piece of weed ; and the next morning, a feal and fome diving pe- Frid |g terels. For the three laft days, the wind had been at Weft, a ftcady frefh gale, attended, now and then, with fhowers of rain or hail. At fix in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the Saturday!?, fame latitude as above, and in the longitude of 770 10' Weft, the variation was 180 33' Eaft; and in the afternoon it was 210 38', being at that time in latitude 530 16' S., longitude 75° 9' Weft. In the morning, as well as in the afternoon, I took fome obfervations to determine the longitude by the watch; and the refults, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18' 30" Weft. At the fame time, the longitude, by my reckoning, was 760 17' Weft. But I have reafon to think, that we were about half a degree more to the Weft than either the one or the other; our latitude, at the fame time, was 53° «' S. Vol. II. Z We 1774- We fleered E. by N, and E. 4 N. all this day, under all December. i___v- the fail wc could carry, with a fine frefli gale at N. W. by W, saturayi7. expe<5tation of feeing the land before night; but not making it till ten o'clock, we took in the fludding-fails, top-gallant fails, and a reef in each top-fail, and| fleered E. N. E., in order to make fure of falling in with Cape Defeada. Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N. E. by N. to E. by S. about fix leagues diflant. On this difcovery, we wore and brought to, with the fliip's head to the South; and having founded, found feventy-five fathoms water, the bottom flone and fliclls. The land now before us could be no other than the wefl coafl of Terra del Fuego, and near the wefl entrance to the Straits of Ma-galhaens. As this was the firfl run that had been made direcfly acrofs this ocean, in a high fouthern latitude *, I have been a little particular in noting every circumftance that ap~ peared in the leafl material: And, after all, I mull obferve that I never made a paffage, any where of fuch length, or even much fhorter, where fo few interelling circumflances occurred. For, if 1 except the variation of the compafs, I know of nothing elfe worth notice. The weather had been neither unufually flormy nor cold. Before we arrived in the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from fixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the latitude of 55°, it was generally between forty-feven and forty-five ; once or twice it fell to forty-three. Thefe obfervations were made at noon. I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myfelf that no one will think that I have left it unex- * It is not to be fuppofed that I could know at this time, that the Adventure had made the pafl'uge before me. plored; plored; or that more could have been done, in one voy- »774» . December, age, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in \—-v-—t . . Saturday 17* this. Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr. Wales contrived and fixed up, an inflrument, which very accurately mca-fured the angle the fhip rolled, when failing large and in a great fea; and that in which fhe lay down, when failing upon a wind. The greatefl angle he obferved her to roll was 380. This was on the 6th of this month, when the fea was not unufually high ; fo that it cannot be reckoned the greatefl roll fhe had made. The mod he obferved her to heel or lie down, when failing upon a wind, was i8° j and this was under double-reefed top-fails and courfes. On the 18th, at three in the morning, we founded again, Sunday ts. and found one hundred and ten fathoms, the fame bottom as before. We now made fail with a frefh gale at N. W., and fleered S. E. by E. along the coafl. It extended from Cape Defeada, which bore North 70 Eafl, to E. S. E.; a pretty high ragged ifle, which lies near a league from the main, and S., i8° E. fix leagues from Cape Defeada, bore N. 490 E. diflant four leagues ; and it obtained the name of Landfall. At four o'clock, we were North and South of the high land of Cape Defeada, diflant about nine leagues ; fo that we faw none of the low rocks faid to lie off it. The latitude of this Cape is about 530 S., longitude 74° 40' Wefl. Continuing to range the coafl, at about two leagues diftance, at eleven o'clock we paffed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucefler. It fliews a round furface of confiderable height, and has much the appearance of being an ifland. It lies S. S. E. t E. diflant feventeen leagues Z 2 from 1774- from the ifle of Landfall. The coafl between them forms <___V—L> two bays, flrewed with rocky iflots, rocks, and breakers. Sunday 18. ^\1€ coa{|; appeared very broken with many inlets; or rather it feemed to be compofed of a number of iflands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, and barren, fpotted, here and there, with tufts of wood, and patches of mow. At noon Cape Gloucefler bore North, diflant eight miles, and the mofl advanced point of land to the S. E., which we judged to be Cape Noir, bore S. E. by S., diftant feven or eight leagues. Latitude obferved 540 13' S. Longitude, made from Cape Defeada, 54' Eafl. From Cape Gloucefler, off which lies a fmall rocky ifland, the direction of the coafl is nearly S. E; but to Cape Noir, for which we fleered, the courfe is S. S. E., diflant about ten leagues. At three o'clock, we paffed Cape Noir, which is a fleep rock of confiderable height, and the S. W. point of a large ifland that feemed to lie detached, a league, or a league and a half, from the mainland. The land of the Cape, when at a diflance from it, appeared to be an ifland disjoined from the other; but, on a nearer approach, we found it connected by a low neck of land. At the point of the Cape are two rocks; the one peaked like a fugar-loaf, the other not fohigh, and fhewing a rounder furface ; and S. by E., two leagues from the Cape, are two other rocky iflots. This Cape is fituated in the latitude of 540 30' S., longitude 730 33' Weft. After palling the two iflots, we fleered E. S. E., crofting the great bay of St. Barbara. We but jufl faw the land in the bottom of it; which could not be lefs than feven or eight leagues from us. There was a fpace, lying in the direction of E. N. E. from Cape Noir, where no land was to be feen: this may be the Channel of St. Barbara, which opens into the Straits Straits of Magalhaens as mentioned, by Frezier. We found the Cape to agree very well with bis defcription; which _w Jjf fliews that he laid down the channel from good me- ****** **' moirs. At ten o'clock, drawing near the S. E. point of the bay, which lies nearly in the direction of S. Go° Eaft from Cape Noir, eighteen leagues diftant, we Shortened fail, and fpent the night {landing off and on. At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th, having made Monday 19. fail, we fleered S. E. by E. along the coafl, and foon paffed the S. E. point of the Bay of St. Barbara, which I called Cape Defolation; becaufe near it commenced the moft defo-late and barren country I ever faw. It is fituated in the latitude of 540 55' South, longitude 720 12' Weft. About four leagues to the Eaft of this Cape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of which lies a pretty large iiland, and fome others of lefs note. Nearly in this fituation fome charts place a channel leading into the Straits of Magalhaens, under the name of Straits of Jelouzel. At ten o'clock, being about a league and an half from the land, we founded, and found fixty fathoms water, a bottom of fmall flones and fhells. The wind, which had been frefli at N. by W., began to abate, and at noon it fell calm, when we obferved in latitude 550 20' South, longitude made from Cape Defeada 30 24' E. In this fituation we were about three leagues from the nearefl fhore, which was that of an ifland. This I named Gilbert Ifle, after my mailer. It is nearly of the fame height with the reft of the coaft, and fliews a furface compofed of feveral peaked rocks unequally high. A little to the S. E. of it are fome fmaller iflands, and, without them, breakers. I have before obferved that this is the moft defolate coaft I ever faw. It feems entirely compofed of rocky mountains S without x774- December. '-y- Monday 19, Tuefday 20. without the lead appearance of vegetation. Thefe mountains terminate in horrible precipices, whofe craggy fummits fpire up to a vafl height; fo that hardly any thing in Nature can appear with a more barren and favage afpecT, than the whole of this country. The inland mountains were covered with fnow, but thofe on the fea-coafl were not. We judged the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the latter to be iflands, fo ranged as apparently to form a coafl. After three hours calm, we got a breeze at S. E. by E., and having made a fhort trip to South, flood in for the land ; the moft advanced point of which, that we had in fight, bore Eaft, diflant ten leagues. This is a lofty promontory, lying E. S. E., nineteen leagues from Gilbert Ifle, and fituated in latitude 550 26' South, longitude 70° 25' Wefl. Viewed from the fituation we now were in, it terminated in two high % towers ; and, within them, a hill fhaped like a fugar-loaf. This wild rock therefore obtained the name of York Minfter. Two leagues to the weflward of this head, appeared a large inlet, the wefl point of which we fetched in with, by nine o'clock, when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league from the more; to the weflward of this inlet, was another, with feveral iflands lying in the entrance. During the night between the 19th and 20th, we had little wind eaflerly, which in the morning veered to N. E. and N. N. E., but it was too faint to be of ufe; and at ten, we had a calm, when wc obferved the fhip to drive from off the fhore out to fea. We had made the fame obfervation the day before. This mufl have been occafioned by a current; and the melting of the fnow increafing, the inland waters will caufe a flream to run out of moft of thefe inlets. At noon, AND ROUND THJE WORLD. i7j noon, we obferved in latitude 55° 30' 30" S., York Minder _ »774- December. then bearing N. 150 E., didant five leagues; and Round-hill, <-B—!/ jud peeping above the horizon, which we judged to belong Monday I9* to the ifles of Saint Jldefonfo, E. 250 S., ten or eleven leagues didant. At ten o'clock, a breeze fpringing up at E. by S.} I took this opportunity to dand in for the land, being defirous of going into one of the many ports which feemed open to receive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our dock of wood and water. In danding in for an opening, which appeared on the ead fide of York Minder, we had forty, thirty-feven, fifty, and iixty fathoms water, a bottom of fmall dones and fhells. When we had the lad foundings we were nearly in the mi j between the two points that form the entrance to the inlet, which we obferved to branch into two arms, both of them lying in nearly North, and disjoined by an high rocky point. We dood for the eadern branch as being clear of iflots; and after palling a black rocky one, lying without the point jud mentioned, we founded and found no bottom with a line of an hundred and feventy fathoms. This was altogether unexpected, and a circumdance that would nor. have been regarded if the breeze had continued; but, at this time, it fell calm, fo that it was not poflible to extricate ourfelves from this difagreeable fituation. Two boats were hoided out, and fent a-hcad to tow; but they would have availed little, had not a breeze fprung up about eight o'clock, at S. W., which put it in my power either to dand out to fea, or up the inlet. Prudence feemed to point out the former; but the defire of finding a good port, and of learning fomething of the country, getting the better of every other confidcration, I rcfolved to dand in ; and, as night I774- night was approaching, our fafety depended on getting to December. *______j an anchor. With this view we continued to found, but al- Momky 19. wayS jla(j an unfathomable depth. Hauling up under the eaft fide of the land which divided the two arms, and feeing a fmall cove ahead, I fent a boat to found; and we kept as near the fhore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to be able to get into this place, if there Ihould be anchorage. The boat foon returned, and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five fathoms water, a full cable's length from the fhore. Here wc anchored in thirty fathoms, the bottom fand and broken fhells; and carried out a kedgc and haw* fer, to fteady the fhip for the night. CHAP, CHAP. II. Tranfa&ions in Chrijlmas Sound, with an Account of the Country and its Inhabitants* HE morning of the 21ft was calm and pleafant. After fecure ftation. We no fooner got round, or above the point, Wedaef, «. under which the fhip lay, than we found a cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the bottom flones and fand. At the head of the cove was a flony beach, a valley covered with wood, and a flrcam of frefh water \ fo that there was every thing we could expect, to find in fuch a place, or rather more ; for we fhot three geefe out of four that we faw, and caught fome young ones, which we afterwards let go. After difcovering, and founding this cove, I fent Lieutenant Gierke, who commanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the fhip into this place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. T prcfently faw that the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an ifland, at the north end of which the two channels united. After this, I haflencd on board, and found every thing in readinefs to weigh; which was accordingly done, and all the boats fent a-head to tow the fhip round the point. But, at that moment, a light breeze came in from the fea too fcant to fill our fails; fo that wc were obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling Vol. II. A a upon breakfaft, I fet out with two boats to look for a more '774. upon the point, and to carry out a hedge to windward. .comber. ,_. . . , t . . , That being done, we hove up the anchor, warped up to, dntf*and weighed the kedge, and proceeding round the point under our flay-iails, there anchored with the bed bower, in twenty fathoms j and moored with the other bower, which lay to the North, in thirteen fathoms. In this pofition we were fhut in from the fea by the point above mentioned, which was in one with the extremity of the inlet to the Eafl. Some iflots, off the next point above us, covered us from the N. W., from which quarter the wind had the greatefl fetch; and our diftance from the fhore was about one third of a mile. Thus fituated, we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut wood, and to fet up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was thought neceffary ; as we had already difcovered, that, barren as this country is, it was not without people, though we had not yet feen any. Mr. Wales alfo got his obfervatory and inftruments on fhore ; but it was with the greatefl difficulty he could find a place of fufficient liability, and clear of the mountains, which every where furrounded us, to fet them up in; and at laft he was obliged to content himfelf with the top of a rock, not more than nine feet over. Next day I fent Lieutenants Clerke and Pickerfgill, accom- mrklay 22. panicd by fome of the other officers, to examine and draw a fkctch of the channel on the other fide of the ifland ; and I went myfelf in another boat, accompanied by the botanifts, to furvcy the northern parts of the found. In my way, I landed on the point of a low ifle covered with herbage, part of which had been lately burnt; we likewife faw a hut; figns fuflicient that people were in the neighbourhood. After After I had taken the neccfTary bearings, we proceeded _jj774« round the eafl: end of Burnt Ifland, and over to what we ;-- Thurfday 21 judged to be the main of Terra del Fucgo, where we found a very fine harbour encompalTed by fleep rocks of vafl height, down which ran many limpid flrcams of water ; and at the foot of the rocks, fome tufts of trees, fit for little elfe but fuel. This harbour, which I fhall diflinguifh by the name of the Devil's Bafon, is divided, as it were, into two, an inner and an outer one; and the communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In the outer bafon, I found thirteen and feventeen fathoms water, and in the inner, feventeen and twenty-three. This laft is as fecure a place as can be, but nothing can be more gloomy. The vafl height of the ravage rocks which encompafs it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridian fun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this inconvenience, but far more fo than the other; it is alfo rather more commodious, and equally fafe. It lies in the direction of North, a mile and an half diftant from the eafl end of Burnt Ifland. I likewife found a good anchoring-place a little to the Wefl of this harbour, before a flrcam of water that comes out of a lake or large reiervoir, which is continually fupplicd by a cafcadc falling into it. Leaving this place, we proceeded along the fhore to the weflward, and found other harbours which 1 had not time to look into. In all of them is frefli water, and wood for fuel; but except thefe little tufts of bulhcs, the whole country is a barren rock, doomed by Nature to cvcrlafling flcrility. The low iflands, and even fome of the higher, which lie fcattered up and dqwn the Sound, are indeed A a 2 raoftly *774- moftlv covered with fhrubs and herbage, the foil a black December. ' • j? . «-,-f rotten turf, evidently compofed, by length of time, of de- '1 hmlday 2Z. cayed vegetables. I had an opportunity to verify what we had obferved at fea ; that the fea-coaft is compofed of a number of large and fmall iflands, and that the numerous inlets are formed by the junction of feveral channels ; at leafl fo it is here. On one of thefe low iflands, we found feveral huts, which had lately been inhabited ; and near them was a good deal of celery, with which we loaded our boat, and returned on board at feven o'clock in the evening. In this expedition, we met with little game; one duck, three or four fhags, and about that number of rails or fea-pies being all we got. The other boat returned on board fome hours before; having found two harbours on the wefl fide of the other channel; the one large, and the other fmall; but both of them fafe and commodious; though, by the fketch Mr. Pickerfgill had taken of them, the accefs to both appeared rather intricate. I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of our marines. He had not been feen fince eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding night. It was fup-pofed that he had fallen over-board, out of the head, where he had been lafl feen, and was drowned. Having fine pleafant weather on the 23d, I fent Lieutenant Pickerfgill in the cutter, to explore the eafl fide of the Sound,, and went myfclf in the pinnace to the weft fide, with an intent to go round the ifland, under which we were at anchor, (and which I fhall diftinguifh by the name of Shag Ifland) in order to view the paffage leading to the harbours Mr. Pickerfgill Fri!«iy 23, Pickerfgill had difcovered the day before, on which I made *774« f December. the following obfervations. In coming from fea, leave all »-—»-1 the rocks and iflands, lying ofTand within York Minfler, on Fnday 2:!* your larboard fide; and the black rock, which lies oflF the fouth end of Shag Ifland, on your ltarboard; and when abreaft of the fouth end of that ifland, haul over for the weft fhore, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will fee before you, as they always grow on rocks; fome of which I have found twelve fathoms under water; but it is always bcfl to keep clear of them. The entrance to the large harbour, or Port Clerke, is jufl to the North of fome low rocks lying off* a point on Shag Ifland. This harbour lies in, W. by S., a mile and an half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood and frefh wratcr. About a mile without, or to the fouthward of Port Clerke, is, or feemed to be, another which I did not examine. It is formed by a large ifland which covers it from the fouth and eafl winds. Without this ifland, that is between it and York Minfler, the fea feemed flrewed with iflots, rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the fouth end of Shag' Ifland, we obferved the fhags to breed in vafl numbers in the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old ones we fhot, but could not come at the young ones, which are, by far, the bed eating. On the eafl fide of the ifland we faw fome geefe; and having with difficulty landed, we killed three, which, at this time, was a valuable acquilition. About feven in the evening we got on board, where Mr. Pickerfgill had arrived but jufl before. He informed me that the land oppofite to our flation was an ifland, which lie had been round; that, on another, more to the North, he found many terns eggs; and that without the great ifland** 3 between. 1774- between it and the eaft head, lay a cove in which were December. . <-u-' many gcete ; one only of which he got, befides fome young Friday 2*. n- 7 J golhngs. Saturday 24. This information of Mr. Pickcrfgill's induced me to make up two mooting parties next day ; Mr. Pickerfgill and his aflbciates going in the cutter, and myfelf and the botanifts in the pinnace. Mr. Pickerfgill went by the N. E. fide of the large iiland above mentioned, which obtained the name of Goofe Ifland ; and I went by the S. W. fide. As foon as we got under the ifland, wc found plenty of flings in the cliffs, but, without flaying to fpend our time and fliot upon thefe, wc proceeded on, and prefently found fport enough. For, in the fouth fide of the ifland, were abundance of. gcefc. It happened to be the moulting feafon ; and moft of them were on fhore for that purpofe, and could not fly. There being a great furf, we found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when wc were landed; fo that hundreds of the geefe efcaped us, fome into the fea, and others up into the ifland. We, however, by one means or other, got fixty-two, with which we returned on board all heartily tired; but the acquifition we had made overbalanced every other confideration, and we fat down with a good appetite to fupper on part of what the preceding day had produced. M*. Pickerfgill and his affociates had got on board fome time before us with fourteen geefc; fo that I was able to make diflribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approaching feftival. For, had not Providence thus fingularly provided for us, our €hriftmas cheer muft have been fait beef and pork. I now /fyM^^TatPfffffifr wrstra/w/ vtTVavStr,-,,'S/torLti/h'b r/w?tadoititi, ///<-Straw/London, 1 now learnt that a number of the natives in nine canoes, J774- JJecember. had been along-fide the fhip ; and fome on board. Little \---.—j r- • 1 r u Saturday 24.. addrefs was required to perfuade them to either; for tney feemed to be well enough acquainted with Europeans, and had, amongfl them, fome of their knives. The next morning, the 25th, they made us another vifit. Sunday 25, I found them to be of the fame nation I had formerly feen in Succefs-Bay, and the fame which M. de Bougainville diftin-guifhes by the name of Pecheras; a word which thefe had, on every occafion, in their mouths. They arc a little, ugly, half-ltarved, beardlefs race. I faw not a tall perfon amongit them. They were almofl naked; their clothing was a feal-fkin ; fome had two or three fewed together, fo as to make a cloak which reached to the knees ; but the mofl of them had only one fkin, hardly large enough to cover their moulders ; and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women, I was told, cover their nakednefs with the flap of a feal-ikin, but in other refpects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remained in the canoes. I faw two young children at the bread entirely naked ; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a flafF. I fuppofe they were intended to kill feals and fifh; they may alfo kill whales with then*, as the Efquimaux do. I know not if they refemble them in their love of train-oil; but they, and every thing they had, fmelt mofl intolerably of it. I ordered them fome bifcuit, but did not obferve them fo fond of it as I had been told. They were much better plcafed when I gave them fome medals, knives, &x. The l774' The women and children, as before obferved, remained December, *-—✓ in the canoes. Thefe were made of bark; and in each Sunday z>. ^ fip^ over which the poor creatures huddled them- fclves. I cannot fuppofe that they carry a fire in their canoes for this purpofe only; but rather that it may be always ready to remove afhore wherever they land; for let their method of obtaining fire be what it may, they cannot be always furc of finding dry fuel that will kindle from a fpark. They like wife carry in their canoes large feal hides, which, I judged, were to fhelter them when at fea, and to ferve as covering to their huts on fhore; and occafionally to be ufed for fails. They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to par-** take of our Chriflmas cheer. Indeed, I believe no one invited them, and for good reafons ; for their dirty perfons, and the flench they carried about them, were enough to fpoil the appetite of any European ; and that would have been a real difappointment, as we had not experienced fuch fare for fome time. Roafl and boiled geefe, goofe-pye, &c. was a treat little known to us; and we had yet fome Madeira wine left, which was the only article of our pro-vifion that was mended by keeping. So that our friends in England did not, perhaps, celebrate Chriflmas more cheerfully than we did. f Monday zi. On the 26th, little wind next to a calm, and fair weather, except in the morning, when wc had fome fhowers of rain. In the evening, when it was cold, the natives made us another vifit; and it being diflreffing to fee them fland trembling and naked on the deck, I could do no lefs than give them fome baize and old canvas to cover themfclves. Having 48 A 73 4892 AND ROUND THE WORLD. i8jr Having already completed our water, on the 27th I or- '774. ° J r December. dcred the wood, tent, and obfervatory to be got on board ; v.— ' , Tuefday 27. and, as this was work for the day, a party of us went in two boats to fhoot gcefe, the weather being fine and plea fan t. We proceeded round by the fouth fide of Goofe Ifland, and picked up in all thiriy-one. On the eafl fide of the ifland, to the north of the eafl point, is good anchorage, in feventeen fathoms water, where it is entirely land-locked. This is a good place for mips to lie in that are bound to the Wefl. On the north fide of this idc, I obferved three fine coves, in which were both wood and water; but it being near night, I had no time to found them ; though I doubt not, there is anchorage. The way to come at them is by the wed end of the ifland. When I returned on board, I found every thing got off the Ihorc, and the launch in ; fo that wc now only waited for a wind to put to fea. The fedival, which wc celebrated at this place, occafioned my giving it the name of Chriflmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is fi mated in the latitude of 550 27' S., longitude 700 16' Wed ; and in the direaion of N. 370 Wed from St. Ildefonfo Ifles, didant ten leagues. Thefe ides are the bed landmark for finding the found. York Minder, which is the only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a dranger, from any defcription that can be given of it, becaufe it alters its appearance according to the different fituations it is viewed from. Befides the black rock, which lies off1 the end of Shag Ifland, there is another about midway between this and the Ead more. A copious defcription of this found is unncceffary, as few would be benefited by it. The fketch which accompanies this journal will be a fufficicnt guide for fuch fhips Vol. II. B b as *774« as chance may bring hither. Anchorage, tufts of wood, December. n \—— -/ and frefli water, will be found in all the coves and liar-Tuefday 27. j would advife no one to anchor very near the fhore. for the fake of having a moderate depth of water ; becaufe there I generally found a rocky bottom. The : ^frefhments to be got here are precarious, as they confifl chiefly of wild fowl, and may probably never be found in fuch plenty as to fupply the crew of a fhip; and fifh, fo far as we can judge, are fcarcc. Indeed, the plenty of wildfowl made us pay lefs attention to fifhing. Here are, however, plenty of mufcles, not very large, but well tailed; and very good celery'is to be met with on feveral of the low iflots, and where the natives have their habitations. The wildfowl are gcefe, ducks, fea-pies* fhags, and that kind of gull fo often mentioned in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people race-horfes, on account of the great fwiftnefs with which they run on the water; for they cannot fly, the wings being too fhort to fupport the body in the air. This bird is at the Falkland Iflands, as appears by Pernety's journal % The geefe too are there, and feem to be very well defcribed under the name of buflards. They are much fmaller than ourEnglifh tame geefe, but eat as well as any I ever tailed. They have fhort black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all white; the female is fpotted black and white, or grey, with a large white fpot on each wing. Befides the bird above-mentioned, here are feveral other aquatic, and fome land ones ; but of the latter not many. • See Pernety's Journal, p. 244. and p. 213. From Tuefday 27. From the knowledge which the inhabitants feem to have '774- 0 December. of Europeans, we may fuppofe that they do not live here continually, but retire to the North during the winter. I have often wondered that thefe people do not clothe them-felves better, fince nature has certainly provided materials. They might line their feal-fkin cloaks with the Ikins and feathers of aquatic birds; they might make thei1' cloaks larger, and employ the fame ikins for other parts of clothing ; fori cannot fuppofe they are fcarcc with them. They were ready enough to part with thofe they had to our people; which they hardly would have done, had they not known where to have got more. In fhort, of all the nations I have feen, the Pecheras are the mofl wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the mofl inhofpitable climates in the world, without having fagacity enough to provide themfelves with fuch conveniences as may render life in fome meafure more comfortable. Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave fufficient employment to Mr. Forfter and his party. The tree, which produceth the Winter's bark, is found here in the woods; as is the holly-leaved barberry; and fome other forts, which I know not, but I believe are common in the Straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a berry, which we called the cranberry, becaufe they are nearly of the fame colour, fize, and fliape. It grows on a bufliy plant, has a bittcrifh tafle, rather inlipid; but may be eaten either raw or in tarts, and is ufed as food by the natives. B b 2 C II A P. C H A R HI, Range from Chriflmas Sound, round Cape Horn, through Strait Le Maire, and round Staten Land \ with a?i Account of the D'fcovery of a Harbour in that If and, and a Defcription of the Coafls* I774. A T four o'clock in the morning on the 28th, we began December to unmoor; and at eight weighed and flood out Wednef. 28. t0 fca> with a light breeze at N. W.,. which afterwards frefhened and was attended with rain. At noon, the eaft point of the Sound (Point Nativity) bore N. ± W., diflant one and a half leagues, and St. Ildefonfo Ifles S. E. JL S.,> diflant feven leagues. The coafl feemed to trend in the direction of E. by S.; but the weather being very hazy, nor thing appeared diflincT. We continued to fleer S. E. by 6. and E. S. E., with a frefh breeze at W. N. W., till four o'clock P.M., when we hauled to the South, in order to have a nearer view of St. Ildefonfo Ifles. At this time wc were abreafl of an inlet, which lies E. S. E., about feven leagues from the Sound; but it mud be obferved that there are fome ifles without this diftincTion. At the wefl point of the inlet, are two high peaked hills; and below them, to the Eafl, two round hills, or ifles, which lie in the direction of N. E. and S. W. of each other. An ifland, or what appeared to be an ifland, lay in the entrance; and another but fmallcr inlet appeared to the Wefl of this; indeed, the coafl appeared indented and broken as ufual. J At At half pail five o'clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good fight of Ildefonfo Ifles. They arc a group of Hlands, and rocks above water, fituatcd about fix leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 55° 53' South, longitude 6(f 41' Wefl. We now rcfumed our courfe to the Eafl; and, at fun-fet, the mofl advanced land bore S. E. by E. * E.; and a point,, which I judged to be the wefl point of Naffau Bay, difcovered by the Dutch fleet under the command of Admiral Hcrmite in 1624-, b°rc N. 8o° Eaft, fix leagues diflant. In fome charts, this point is called falfc Cape Horn, as being, the fouthern point of Terra del Fuego. It is fituatcd in latitude ss° 39' South. From the inlet above mentioned to this falfe Cape, the direction of the coafl is nearly Eafl, half a, point South, diflant fourteen or fifteen leagues. At ten o'clock, having fhortcned fail, wc fpent the night in making fhort boards under the top-fails, and at three next morning, made fail, and fleered S. E. by S., with a frefli breeze at W. S, W., the weather fomewhat hazy. At this time, the wefl entrance to Naflau Bay extended from NT. by E. to N. E. t E., and the fouth fide of Hermite's Hies, E. by S. At four, Cape Horn, for which wc now fleered, bore E. by S. It is known, at a diftance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the W. N. W. fliews a furface not unlike this; but their fituations alone will always diflinguifli the one from the other.. At half pafl feven, we pafTed this famous Cape, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the very fame point of land I took for the Cape, when I pafTed it in j769, which at that time I was doubtful of. It is the mofl fouthern extremity oa '774- on a group of iflands of unequal extent, lying before «_c-,- 'i Naffau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Iflands, Thurfday.29. .fi £tuatecj -m t]ie latitude of ss° 58', and in the longitude of 68° 13' Weft, according to the obfervations made of it in 1769. But the obfervations, which wc had in Chriflmas Sound, and reduced to the Cape by the watch, and others, which we had afterwards and reduced back to it by the fame means, place it in 670 19'. It is mofl probable that a mean between the two, viz. 670 46', will be nearefl the truth. On the N. W. fide of the Cape are two peaked rocks like fugar-loaves. They lie N. W. by N., and S. E. by S., by compafs, of each other. Some other flrag-gling low rocks lie Wefl of the Cape, and one South of it; but they are all near the fhore. From Chriflmas Sound to Cape Horn, the courfe is E. S, E.; E-, diflant thirty-one leagues, fn the direction of E. N. E., three leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called Miflaken Cape, and is the fouthern point of the eaflernmoft of Hermite Ifles. Between thefe two Capes there feemed to be a paffage directly into Naffau Bay; fome fmall ifles were feen in the paffage; and the coafl, on the wefl fide, had the appearance of forming good bays or harbours. In fome charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a fmall ifland. This was neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted by us; for feveral breakers appeared in the coafl, both to the Eail and Wefl of it; and the hazy weather rendered every object indiflinct. The fummits of fome of the hills were rocky, but the fides, and valleys, feemed covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts. From Cape Horn we fleered E. by N. i N.; which direction carried us without the rocks that lie off Miftaken Cape. Thefe rocks are white with the dung of fowls; and vafl numbers were feen about them. After paffing them, we fleered AND ROUND THE WORLD. 191 fleered N. E. * E., and N. E., for Strait Le Maire, with a »774- r i i • /» /. December. view of looking into Succefs Bay, to fee if there were any ----' traces of the Adventure having been there. At eight o'clock Thurfday *9' in the evening, drawing near the Strait, we fhortened fail, and hauled the wind. At this time the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. 330 Wefl.; the point of Succefs Bay, jufl open of the cape of the fame name, bearing N. 200 Eafl; and Staten Land, extending from N. 530 Eafl to 670 Eafl. Soon after, the wind died away, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the next day; during which time wc Fritl2y 30* were driven by the current over to Staten Land. The calm being fucceeded by a light breeze at N. N. W., we flood over for Succefs Bay, aflifled by the currents, which fet to the North. Before this, we had hoifled our colours, and fired two guns; and foon after, faw a fmoke rife out of the woods, above the fouth point of the bay; which I judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where they refided when I was here in 1769. As foon as we got off the bay, I fent Lieutenant Pickerfgill to fee if any traces remained of the Adventure having been there lately; and in the mean time we flood on and off with the fhip. At two o'clock, the current turned and fet to the South; and Mr. Pickerfgill informed me, when he returned, that it was falling water on more; which was contrary to what I had obferved when I was here before; for I thought then that the flood came from the North. Mr. Pickerfgill faw not the' leafl figns of any fhip having been there lately. I had in-fcribed our fhip's name on a card, which he nailed to a tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of giving Captain Furneaux fome information, in cafe he mould be behind us and put in here. 1 On 1774- On Mr. Pickerfgill's landing, he was courtcoufly received December, % y-„-' by feveral or the natives, who were clothed in guanicoc "***>»o. ant| ^ea| flpa3| and had on their arms bracelets, made of filver wire, and wrought not unlike the hilt of a fword, being no doubt the manufacture of fome Europeans. They were the fame kind of people we had feen in Chrillmas Sound; and, like them, repeated the word Pcchcra, on every occafion. One man fpoke much to Mr. Pickerfgill pointing firfl to the lhip and then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in. Mr. Pickerfgill faid the bay was full of whales and .feals; and we had obferved the fame in the Strait, efpecially on the Terra del Fucgo fide, where the whales, in particular, are exceedingly numerous. As foon as the boat was hoifled in, which was not till near fix o'clock, we made fail to the Eafl, with a fine breeze at North. For fince we had explored the South coafl of Terra del Fuego, 1 refolved to do the fame by Staten Land j which I believed to have been as little known as the former. At nine o'clock the wind freshening, and veering to N. W., we tacked, and flood to S. W., in order to fpend the night. which proved none of the befl, being flormy and hazy, with rain. Saturday 31 Next morning, at three o'clock, we bore up for the eafl 'end of Staten Land, which, at half pafl four, bore S. 6o° E. the well end S. 2° E., and the land of Terra del Fuego S. 400 Well. Soon after 1 had taken thefe bearings, the land was again obfeured in a thick haze, and we were obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark; for it was but now and then we got a fight of the coaft. As we advanced to the Eaft, we perceived feveral iflands, of unequal extent, lying off the land. There feemed to be a clear paffage between' the eafternmofl AND ROUND THE WORLD. 193 eafternmoft, and the one next to it, to the Wefl:. I would 17 74- December. gladly have gone through this paffage, and anchored under v--» one of the iflands, to have waited for better weather; for on atur y 3U founding we found only twenty-nine fathoms water; but when I conftdercd that this was running to leeward in the dark, I chofe to keep without the iflands, and accordingly hauled ofT to the North. At eight o'clock, we were abreafl • of the moft eaftern ifle, diftant from it about two miles, and had the fame depth of water as before. I now fhortened fail to the three top-fails, to wait for clear weather; for the fog was fo thick, that we could fee no other land than this ifland. After waiting an hour, and the weather not clearing, we bore up and hauled round the eaft end of the ifland, for the fake of fmooth water, and anchorage, if it fliould be neceffary. In hauling round, we found a flrong race of a current, like unto broken water; but we had no lefs than nineteen fathoms. We alfo faw on the ifland, abundance of feals and birds. This was a temptation too great for people in our fituation to withftand, to whom frefh provifions of any kind were acceptable; and determined me to anchor, in order that we might tafte of what we now only faw at a diftance. At length, after making a few boards, fifhing, as it were, for the beft ground, we anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, a ftony bottom, about a mile from the ifland, which extended from N. 180 E. to N. 55°* Wefl; and foon after, the weather clearing up, we faw Cape St. John, or the eaft end of Staten Land, bearing S. 750 Eafl, diftant four leagues. We were fheltered from the fouth wind by Staten Land, and from the north wind by the ifland; the other ifles lay to the Wefl, and fecured us from that wind ; but befide being open to the N. E. and E*, we alfo lay expofed to the N. N. W. winds. This might have been avoided by Vol. II. C c anchoring 1774- anchoring more to the Wefl; but I made choice of my fitu- December. * ^—^-w ation for two reafons ; firfl, to be near the ifland we intended to land upon; and fecondly, to be able to get to fea with any wind. After dinner we hoifled out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; fome to kill feals; others to catch or kill birds, fifh, or what came in our way. To find of the former, it mattered not where we landed; for the whole fhore was covered with them ; and, by the noife they made, one would have thought the ifland was flocked with cows and calves. On landing, we found they were a different animal from feals, but in fhape and motion exactly refem-bling them. We called them Lions, on account of the great rcfemblance the male has to that beafl. Here were alfo the fame kind of feals which we found in New Zealand, generally known by the name of Sea-bears; at leafl, we gave them that name. They were, in general, fo tame, or rather ilupid, as to fuffcr us to come near enough to knock them down with flicks .; but the large ones we fliot, not thinking it fafe to approach them. We alfo found on the iiland abundance of penguins and fhags; and the latter had young ones almofl fledged, and jufl to our tafle. Here were geefe and ducks, but not many ; birds of prey, and a few fmall birds. In the evening we returned on board, our boats well laden with one thing or other. 1775- Next day, being January the ift 1775, finding that nothing Sunday i." was wanting but a good harbour, to make this a tolerable place for fhips to rcfrefh at, whom chance or defign might bring hither; I fent Mr. Gilbert over to Staten Land in the cutter, to look for one. Appearances promifed fuccefs, in a place oppofitc the fhip. I alfo fent two other boats for the G lions, lions, &c. we had killed the preceding day; and, foon after, *Wr'y I went myfelf, and obferved the fun's meridian altitude at c~-^—^ , Sunday I, the N. E. end of the iiland, which gave the latitude 54° 40 S" South. After mooting a few geefe, fome other birds, and plentifully fupplying ourfelves with young mags, we returned on board, laden with fea-lions, fea-bears, &c. The old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the fake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of; for, except their harflets, which were tolerable, the flefh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relifh. But the young cubs were very palate-able ; and even the flefh of fome of the old lioneffes was not much amifs; but that of the old males was abominable. In the afternoon, I fent fome people on fhore to fkin and cut off the fat of thofe which yet remained dead on more; for we had already more carcaffes on board than neceffary; and I went myfelf, in another boat, to collect birds. About ten o'clock Mr. Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he found a good port, fituatcd three leagues to the weflward of Cape St. John, and in the direction of North, a little eafl-erly, from the N. E., end of the eaflern iiland. It may be known by fome fmall iflands lying in the entrance. The channel, which is on the eafl fide of thefe iflands, is half a mile broad. The courfe in is S. W. by S., turning gradually to W. by S- and Wefl. The harbour lies nearly in this Iafl direction; is almofl two miles in length; in fome places near a mile broad; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud and fand. Its fhores arc covered with wood fit for fuel; and in it are feveral flrcams of frefli water. "On the iflands were fea-lions, &c. and fuch an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken the air when dif-turbed, and almofl to fufFocate our people with their dung. This they feemed to void in a way of defence, and it flunk. C c 2 worfe 1775* worfe than afla-fcctida, or as it is commonly called devil's-<.—dung. Our people alfo faw feveral geefe, ducks, and race-Sunday i. horfes, which is alfo a kind of duck. The day on which this port was difcovered, occafioned my calling it New Year's Harbour. It would be more convenient for £hips bound to the Wefl, or round Cape Horn, if its fituation would permit them, to put to fea with an caflerly and northerly wind. This inconvenience, however, is of little confequence, fince thefe winds are never known to be of long duration. The foutherly and wefterly are the prevailing winds; fo that a fhip can never be detained long in this port. Monday 2. As wc could not fail in the morning of the 2d, for want of wind, I fent a party of men on fhore to the ifland, on the fame duty as before. Towards noon we got a frefli breeze at Weft; but it came too late, and I refolved to wait Tuefday 3. till the next morning, when, at four o'clock, we weighed with a frefh gale at N. W. by W., and flood for Cape St. John, which, at half pall fix, bore N. by E., diflant four or five miles. This Cape, being the eaftern point of Staten Land, a defcription of it is unneceffary. It may, however, not be amifs to fay, that it is a rock of confiderable height, fituated in the latitude of 540 46' South, longitude 640 7' Weft, with a rocky iflot lying clofe under the north part of it. To the weflward of the Cape, about five or fix miles, is an inlet which feemed to divide the land; that is, to communicate with the fea to the South; and between this inlet and the Cape, is a bay; but I cannot fay of what depth. In failing round the Cape, we met with a very flrong current from the South: it made a race which looked like breakers; and it was as much as we could do, with a flrong gale, to make head againft it. 5 After r After getting round the Cape, I hauled up along the fouth *775« coafl ; and as foon as we had brought the wind to blow off *—— .... ft Tuefday J* the land, it came upon us in fuch heavy fqualls as obliged us to double-reef our top-fails. It afterwards fell, by little and little, and at noon ended in a calm. At this time Cape St. John bore N. 200 Eafl, diflant three and a half leagues; Cape St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten Land, S„ 830 Wefl; two high detached rocks N. 8o° Wefl; and the place where the land feemed to be divided, which had the fame appearance on this fide, bore N. 150 Wefl, three leagues diflant. Latitude obferved 540 56'. In this fituation we founded, but had no bottom with a line of one hundred and twenty fathoms. The calm was of very fhort duration, a breeze prefently fpringing up at N. W.; but it was too faint to make head againfl the current, and we drove with it back to the N. N. E. At four o'clock the wind veered, at once, to S. by E., and blew in fqualls attended with rain. Two hours after, the fqualls and rain fubfided, and the wind returning back to the Wefl, blew a gentle gale. All this time the current fet us to the North; fo that, at eight o'clock, Cape St. John bore W. N. W., diflant about feven leagues. I now gave over plying, and fleered S. E., with a refolution to leave the land; judging it to be fufficiently explored, to anfwer the mofl general purpofes of navigation and geography. CHAP. CHAP. IV. Obfervations, geographical and nautical, with an Account of the Ifands near Staten Land, and she Animals found in them. THE annexed chart will, very accurately, fhew the direction, extent, and poiition of the coafl, along which I have failed, either in this or my former voyage ; and no more is to be expected from it. The latitudes have been determined by the fun's meridian altitude, which we were fo fortunate as to obtain every day, except the one wc failed from Chriflmas Sound ; which was of no confequence as its latitude was known before. The longitudes have been fettled by lunar obfervations, as is already mentioned. I have taken 6y° 4.6' for the longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian, the longitudes of all the other parts are de-duced'by the watch; by which the extent of the whole mufl be determined to a few miles; and whatever errors there may be in longitude, muft be general. But I think it highly probable, that the longitude is determined to within a quarter of a degree. Thus the extent of Terra del Fuego from Eall to Wefl, and confequently that of the Straits of Magalhaens, will be found lefs than mofl navigators have made it. In order to illuflrate this, and to fhew the fituations of the neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the annexed chart of more general ufe, I have extended it do^vn to 470 of latitude. But I am only anfwerable for the inaccuracy 16 ■ :<> 70 6 J) 6 6 66 (>U3 _^J_, (t'e/l i "__Li'/n/iftu/A from 0rctu)i'U'/i . i C A IT, W LJkNC 6 6 G A Chart of the southern Extremity of 1775 S 0 /"tf/V /,//, / V,777/ //';'/// ///✓' ,//.'.rrr,v/t:r <>/' 0 ft -rhf/f/n /.>/,ZfU/ 46 A'. Siintu (hiz C. fair-weather Rio Gatfeev 30 9 63 40 3.5 ^EddyJtom 55 / r,|,<>/u- /i a tirf so o l' i) i re c bum i^vk/v^ ^/>y^; **** IS n -.11) \ c .A u -A8 g h bi 3? 46 '6 30 &1 f;ipo \«y B AY C ^,7. -J- iJP.. <'.v i-i: a" s„.,v„, % : ^^P>l l [(hintl i" .............. ^"»<^ S1 [Itlefoiwo Hies c*IJ>i«go Ramirez TTITjl 11Er' 7LJ 7 4 7 n\EjTJUfl ' U T T ri j riu.-j-|-Lj.TryrJT' 71 > 0 69 8 6 (i G 36 tajftaek 7<» 17 jo 4> 3* \. \ IS AT 8J> •jji a 11 r a R r or NewYear* Harbou S TAT E N i p:t r3qrxnrrx|"LL | , | I 1 11 J ijtx cfjnn i \ 1 i_n|!i.rT i | i i 11 j i m | 11111 i i rijgi 2 6l 6o 5 9 t a 4 -i----1-----1 vhate <>/' .lfr/i . I i i i i I l H I i i 1 a ■to 0 ;l(> Ha rbour© ->° .; 8 i i | P iiyi t-n t- jiti p jxt|i-i rift ti.£jrt- •51 b racy of fuch parts as I have explored myfelf. In laying down the reft I had recourfe to the following authorities. The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, which is the moft effential point, as it determines the length of the Straits of Magalhaens, is deduced from Lord Anfon, who made 2° 30' difference of longitude between it and the Strait Le Maire. Now as the latter lies in 650 22', Cape Virgin Mary mufl lie in 6y° 52', which is the longitude I have afligned to it, and which, I have reafon to think, cannot be far from the truth. The Strait of Magalhaens, and the eafl coafl of Patagonia, are laid down from the obfervations made by the late Eng-lifh and French navigators. The pofition of the wefl coafl of America, from Cape Victory northward, I have taken from the difcovcries of Sarmiento, a Spanifh navigator, communicated to me by Mr* Stuart, F. R. S. Falkland Iflands are copied from a fketch taken from Captain M'Bride, who circumnavigated them fome years ago in his Majefly's fhip Jafon ; and their diftance from the main is agreeable to the run of the Dolphin, under the command of Commodore Byron, from Cape Virgin Mary to Port Egmont, and from Port Egmont to Port Defire; both of which runs were made in a few days *, consequently no material errors could happen. TheS. W. coaft of Terra del Fuego, with rcfpccl to inlets, iflands, &c. may be compared to the coafl of Norway; for, 1 doubt, if there be an extent of three leagues where there is not an inlet or harbour, which will receive and flicker the largefl fhipping. The worfl is, that till thefe inlets are better 1775* ter known, one has, as it were, to fifh for anchorage. There \l*^Z'.j arc feveral lurking rocks on the coafl; but happily none of them lie far from land, the approach to which may be known by founding, fuppofmg the weather fo obfeure that you cannot fee it. For to judge of the whole by the parts # we have founded, it is more than probable that there arc foundings all along the coafl, and for feveral leagues out to fea. Upon the whole, this is, by no means, the dangerous coafl it has been reprefented. Staten Land lies nearly E. by N. and W. by S., and is ten leagues long in that direction; and, no where, above three or four leagues broad. The coafl is rocky, much indented, and feemed to form feveral bays or inlets. It fliews a furface of craggy hills which fpire up to a vafl height, efpecially near the wefl end. Except the craggy fummits of the hills, the greatefl part was covered with trees and fhrubs, or fome fort of herbage, and there was little or no fnow on it. The currents between Cape Defeada and Cape Horn, fet from Wefl to Eafl, that is in the fame direction as the coafl; but they are by no means confiderable. Jo the Eafl of the Cape their ftrength is much increafed, and their direction is N. E. towards Staten Land. They are rapid in Strait Le Maire and along the fouth coafl of Staten Land, and fet like a torrent round Cape St. John; where they take a N. W. direction, and continue to run very flrong both within and without New Year's Ifles. While we lay at anchor within this ifland, I obferved that the current was flrongefl during the flood; and that, on the ebb, its flrength was fo much impaired, that the fhip would fometimes ride head to wind when it was at Wefl and W. N. W. This is only to be underflood of the place where the fhip lay at anchor j for at the very time we had had a flrong current fetting to the weflward, Mr. Gilbert '775- ■ January, found one of equal flrength near the coafl of Staten Land \- letting to the eallward; though probably this was an eddy current or tide. If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the fhore at this place, on the days of the new and full moon, about four o'clock. The perpendicular rife and fall is very inconfiderable, not exceeding four feet at mofl. In Chrillmas Sound it is high-water at half pafl two o'clock on the days of the full and change, and Mr. Wales obferved it to rife and fall, on a perpendicular, three feet fix inches; but this was during the neap tides, confequently the fpring tides mufl rife higher. To give fuch an account of the tides and currents on thefe coafls as navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of obfervations, and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I confefs myfelf unprovided with materials for fuch a talk; and believe that the lefs I fay on this fubjeel:, the fewer mif-takes I fhall make. But I think I have been able to obferve, that in Strait Le Maire, the foutherly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act on the days of new and full moon about four o'clock, which remark may be of ufe to fhips who pafs the Strait. Were I bound round Cape Horn to the Wefl, and not in want of wood or water, or any other thing that might make it neceflary to put into port, I would not come near the land at all. For by keeping out at fea you avoid the currents, which, I am fatisficd, lofe their force at ten or twelve leagues from land; and at a greater diftance there is none. During the time we were upon the coafl, we had more calms than ftorms, and the winds fo variable that I queflion Vol. II. D d if 1775. if a paffage might not have been made from Eaft to Weft in as fhort a time as from Weft to Eaft; nor did we experience any cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was never below 46°; and, while we lay in Chriflmas Sound, it was generally above temperate. At this place, the variation was 230 30' Eaft; a few leagues to the S. W. of Strait Lc Maire it was 240; and at anchor, within New Year's Ifles, it was 240 20' Eaft. Thefe ifles are, in general, fo unlike Staten Land, efpecially the one on which we landed, that it deferves a particular defcription. It fhews a furface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above the fea, from which it is defended by a rocky coaft. The inner part of the ifle is covered with a fort of fword-grafs, very green, and of a great length. It grows on little hillocks, of two or three feet in diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which feemed to be compofed of the roots of the plant matted together. Among thefe hillocks are a vaft number of paths made by fea-bears and penguins, by which they retire into the centre of the ifle. It is, neverthelefs, exceedingly bad travelling ; for thefe paths are fo dirty that one is fometimes up to the knees in mire. Befides this plant, there area few other graffes; a kind of heath, and fome celery. The whole furface is moift and wet, and on the coaft are feveral fmall ftrcams of water. The fword-grafs, as I call it, feems to be the fame that grows in Falkland Ifles, defcribed by Bougainville as a kind of gladiolus, or rather a fpecics of gramen*, and named by Pcrnety, corn-flags. The animals found on this little fpot are fea-lions, fea-bears, a variety of oceanic, and fome land birds. The fea-lion is pretty well defcribed by Pernety; though thofe we faw here have not fuch fore-feet or fins as that he has given * Sre Englifli Tianflation of Bougainville, p. 51. 2 a plate a plate of, but fuch fins as that which he calls the fea-wolf. Nor did we fee any of the fize he fpeaks of; the largefl not being more than twelve or fourteen feet in length, and perhaps eight or ten in circumference. They are not of that kind defcribed, under the fame name, by Lord Anfon ; but, for aught I know, thefe would more properly deferve that appellation ; the long hair, with which the back of the head, the neck and moulders, are covered, giving them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. The other part 'of the body is covered with a fhort hair, little longer than that of a cow or a horfe; and the whole is a dark brown. The female is not half fo big as the male, and is covered with a fhort hair of an afh, or light dun colour. They live, as it were in herds, on the rocks, and near the fea-fhore. As this was the time for engendering as well as bringing forth their young, we have feen a male with twenty or thirty females about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himfelf, and beating off every other male who attempted to come into his flock. Others again had a lefs number; fome no more than one or two; and here and there wc have feen one lying growling in a retired place, alone, and fuffering neither males nor females to approach him: we judged thefe were old and fuperannuatcd. The fea-bears are not fo large, by far, as the lions, but rather larger than a common feal. They have none of that long hair which diflinguifhes the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and.fincr than that of the lion, fomething like an otter's ; and the general colour is that of iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call fea-wolfs, and the Englifh. feals: they are, however, different from the feals wc have in Europe and in North America. The lions may too, without any great impropriety, be called over-grown feals; for D d 2 they 1775* they are all of the fame fpecies. It was not at all dan-iJ1-"!^ gerous to go among them; for they either fled or lay flill. The only danger was in going between them and the fea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in fuch numbers that, if you could not get out of their way, you would be run over. Sometimes, when we came fuddenly upon them, or waked them out of their fleep (for they are a fluggifh fleepy animal), they would raife up their heads, fnortand marl, and look as fierce as if they meant to devour us ; but as we advanced upon them, they always run away; fo that they are downright bullies. The penguin is an amphibious bird fo well known to mofl people, that I mail only obferve, they are here in prodigious numbers ; fo that we could knock down as many a3 wc pleafed with a flick. I cannot fay they are good eating. I have indeed made feveral good meals of them; but it was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here, or elfe this was not the feafon ; for we faw neither eggs nor young ones. Shags breed here in vafl numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as they are very good eating. They take certain fpots to themfelves, and build their nefls near the edge of the "cliffs on little hillocks, which are either thofe of the fword-grafs, or elfe they are made by the fhags building on them from year to year. There is another fort rather fmaller than thefe, which breed in the cliffs of rocks. The geefe are of the fame fort we found in Chriflmas Sound; we faw but few; and fome had young ones. Mr. Forfler fhot one which was different from thefe, being larger, with a grey plumage, and black feet. The others make a noife aoife exactly like a cluck. Here were ducks, but not many ; and feveral of that fort which we called raee-horfes. We £hot fome, and found them to weigh twenty-nine or thirty pounds; thofe who cat of them faid they were very good. The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown bird, of the fize of an albatrofs, which Pernety calls quebrantahueffas. We called them Mother Gary's geefe, and found them pretty good eating. The land birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our feamen called turkey buzzards, thrufhes, and a few other fmall birds. Our naturaliffs found two new fpecies of birds. The one is about the fize of a pigeon, the plumage as white as milk. They feed along more, probably on fhell-fifh and carrion; for they have a very difagreeable fmell. When we firfl faw thefe birds, we thought they were the fnow peterel, but the moment they were in our poffeffion, the miflake was difcovered; for they refemble them in nothing but fize and colour. Thefe are not web-footed. The other fort is a fpecies of curlews nearly as big as a heron. It has a variegated plumage, the principal colours whereof are light-grey, and a long crooked bill. I had almoft forgot to mention that there are fea-pics, or what we called, when in New Zealand, curlews; but wc only faw a few flraggling pairs. It may not be amifs to obferve, that the fhags are the fame bird which Bougainville calls faw-bills; but he is miftaken in faying that the quebrantahueffas are their enemies ; for this bird is of the peterel tribe, feeds wholly on fifh, and is to be found in all the high fouthern latitudes. It 1775. It is amazing to fee how the different animals, which in-^January^ fahit this little fpot, are mutually reconciled. They feem to have entered into a league not to difturb each other's tranquillity. The fea-lions occupy mofl of the fea-coafl; the fea-bears take up their abode in the ifle; the fhags have pofl in the higheft cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the mofl eafy communication to and from the fea; and the other birds chufe more retired places. We have feen all thefe animals mix together, like domeflic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molefl the other. Nay, 1 have often obferved the eagles and vultures fitting on the hillocks among the fhags, without the latter, either young or old, being difturbed at their prefence. It may be afked how thefe birds of prey live? I fuppofe, on the carcaffes of feals and birds which die by various caufes; and probably not few, as they are fo numerous. This very imperfect account is written more with a view to afhft my own memory, than to give information to others. I am neither a botanift nor a naturalift; and have not words to defcribe the productions of Nature, either in the one branch of knowledge or the other. C H A P. C II A P. V. Proceedings after leaving Staten If and, with an Account of the D'fcovery of the Ife of Georgia, a?id a Defcription of it. TTAVING left the land in the evening of the 3d, as 1775. JtJL before-mentioned, we faw it again next morning, at ^anua'y three o'clock, bearing Weft. Wind continued to blow a fteady frefh breeze till fix P. M. when it fhifted in a heavy fquall to S. W„ which came fo fuddenly upon us, that we had not time to take in the fails, and was the occafion of carrying away a top-gallant maft, a ftudding-fail boom, and a fore ftudding-fail. The fquall ended in a heavy mower of rain, but the wind remained at S. W. Our courfe was S. E, with a view of difcovering that extenfive coaft, laid down by Mr. Dairympic in his chart, in which is the Gulph of St. Sebaftian. I defigned to make the weftern point of that Gulph, in order to have all the other parts before me. Indeed, I had fome doubt of the exiftence of fuch a coaft; and this appeared to me the beft route for clearing it up, and for exploring the fouthern part of this ocean. On the 5th, frefh gales, and wet and cloudy weather. At Thurfday noon obferved in 570 9', longitude made from Cape Saint John, 50 2', Eaft. At fix o'clock P. M., being in the latitude 570 21', and in longitude 570 45' Weft, the variation was 2i° 28'Eaft. At r775- January. Friday 6. Saturday 7. Sunday 8. Monday 9, At eight o'clock in the evening of the 6th, being then in the latitude of 58° 9' South, longitude 530 14' Weft, we clofc-reefed our top-fails, and hauled to the North, with a very ftrong gale at Weft, attended with a thick haze and fleet. The fituation jufl mentioned, is nearly the fame that Mr. Dalrymple affigns for the S. W. point of the Gulph of St. Sebaflian. But as we faw neither land, nor figns of land, I was the more doubtful of its exiftence, and was fearful, that by keeping to the South I might mifs the land faid to be difcovered by La Roche in 1675, and by the fhip Lion in 1756, which Mr. Dalrymple places in 540 30' latitude, and 45° of longitude; but on looking over Danville's Chart, I found it laid down 90 or io° more to the Weft; this difference of fituation being to me a fign of the uncertainty of both accounts, determined me to get into the parallel as foon as poflible, and was the reafon of my hauling to the North at this time. Towards the morning of the 7th, the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind veered to the W, S. W., where it continued till midnight; after which it veered to N. W. Being at this time in the latitude of 560 4' S., longitude 530 36' Weft, we founded, but found no bottom, with a line of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I ft ill kept the wind on the larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and pleafant weather. On the 8th, at noon, a bed of fea-weed paffed the fhip. In the afternoon, in the latitude of 5.50 4', longitude 510 45' Weft, the variation was 200 4' Eaft. On the 9th, wind at N. E. attended with thick hazy weather ; faw a fcal, and a piece of fea-weed. At noon, latitude cc° 12° S., longitude co° 1 a,' Weft, the wind and weather 1775- 0 J 0 January. continuing the fame till towards midnight, when the latter \—v—» n 1 x 1 Tuesday 10. cleared up,, and tlie former veered to Wcit, and blew a gentle gale. We continued to ply till two o'clock the next morning, when we hore away Eaft, and at eight, E. N. E.; at noon, obferved in latitude 540 35' S., longitude 470 56'Weft, a great many albatroffes and blue peterels about the fhip. I now fleered Eaft, and the next morning, in the latitude of Wednef. u; 540 38', longitude 45° 19' Weft, the variation was 190 25' Eafl. In the afternoon faw feveral penguins, and fome pieces of weed. Having fpent the night lying to, on the 12th, at day- Thurfday is. break, we bore away, and fleered Eaft northerly, with a fine frefh breeze at W. 8. W.; at noon obferved in latitude 540 28' S., longitude in 420 8' Weft ; that is, near 30 Eaft of the fituation in which Mr. Dalrymple places the N. E. point of the Gulph of Sr. Sebaflian ; but we had no other figns of land than feeing a feal and a few penguins ; on the contrary we •had a fwell from E. S E., which would hardly have been if any extenfive track of land lay in that direction. In the evening the gale abated, and at midnight it fell calm. The calm, attended by a thick fog, continued till fix next Friday lj; morning, when we got a wind at Eaft, but the fog flill prevailed. We flood to the South till noon, when, being in the latitude of 55° 7', we tacked and flretchcd to the North with a frefh breeze at E. by S. and E. S. E., cloudy weather ; faw feveral penguins and a fnow peterel, which we looked on to be figns of the vicinity of ice. The air too was much colder than we had felt it fincc wc left New Zealand. In the afternoon, the wind veered to S. E., and in the night Vol. II. E e to *774« to S. S. E., and blew frefli; with which we Hood to the January. %—-> N. E. srurday 14. At nine o'clock the next morning we faw an iiland of ice, as we then thought; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. At this time it bore E. -J S., diflant thirteen leagues ; our latitude was 530 56' f, longitude 390 24' Well; feveral penguins, fmall divers, a fnow peterel, and a vafl number of blue peterels about the fhip. We had but little wind all the morning; and at two P. M. it fell calm. It was now no longer doubted that it was land, and not ice, which we had in fight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered with fnow. We were farther confirmed in our judgment of its being land, by finding foundings at one hundred and feventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The land at this time, bore E. by S., about twelve leagues diflant. At fix o'clock the calm was fucceeded by a breeze at N- E., with which we flood to S. E. At firfl it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards increafed fo as to bring us under double-reefed top-fails, and was attended with fnow and fleet. Sttntky 15. We continued to ftand to the S. E., till feven in the morning on the 15th, when the wind veering to the S. E., we tacked and flood to the North. A little before we tacked, we faw the land bearing E. by N. At noon the mercury in the thermometer was at 35°^.. The wind blew in fqualls, attended with fnow and fleet, and we had a great fea to encounter. At a lee-lurch which the fhip took, Mr. Wales obferved her to lie down 420. At half pafl four P. M„ we took in the top-fails, got down top gallant yards, wore the fhip, and flood to the S. W., under two courfes. At midnight the ftorm abated, fo that we could carry the top-fails double reefed. 7 At i k 1 ^ i 1 h Tit ilk // {/I v >" Till. jfl c. MoxfrAe v 9 K* Large Ire Isles Haundf,r,s Isle Candlemas Isles mo 5 S Chart or the Dis c ovekie s ninde m die s outh a tlaxt1c oCeax, in His majestys Ship Resolution, under the Command of Captain Cook, in ,h\ir ijy;. Kate. Thf Luye Fi'we.- mmw*1,1 ■ Tnr.-K . dlnflfc (hi- if./'/h 1| Wtttcr ut t\uhorn.< ths.>-">.tlt lii/tir,-.'tf>.- />.;•■■■ st'thf Jl>/r//l ■ WHl Lnimitudr I 1,111 (i Coop'/, f 1 S LK or ^•(il-i'l-M I* v -'4 Ticker*,;.Mm I. (i EORGIA ^> C/l/l'tt /*/ \ lisS \ IIX) 4^K_^>>:«^^^W«=i-V 'His At four in the morning of the i6th, we wore and flood to die Eaft, with the wind at S. S. E., a moderate breeze and fair; at eight o'clock faw the land extending from 1. by N. to N. E. by N; loofed a reef out of each cop-fail, got top-gallant yards acrofs, and fet the fails. At noon obferved in latitude 540 25't; longitude 380 18' Weft. In this fituation we had one hundred and ten fathoms water ; and the land extended from N. t W. to Eafl, eight leagues diftant. The northern extreme was the fame that we firfl difcovered, and it proved to be an ifland which obtained the name of Willis's Ifland, after the perfon who firft faw it.. At this time we had a great fwell from the South, an indication that no land was near us in that direct ion ; neverthe-lefs the vafl quantity of fnow on that in fight, induced us to think it was extenfive, and I chofe to begin with exploring the northern coafl. With this view we bore up for Willis's Ifland, all fails fet, having a fine gale at $, S. W. As we advanced to the North, wc perceived another ifle lying Eafl of Willis's, and between it and the main. Seeing there was a clear paffage between the two ifles, we fleered for it, and at five o'clock, being in the middle of it, wc found it about two miles broad. Willis's Ifle is an high rock of no great extent, near to which are fome rocky iflots. It is fituated in the latitude of 540 S., longitude 380 23' Weft. The other Hie, which obtained the name of Bird Ifle, on account of the vafl number that were upon it, is not fo high, but of greater extent, and is clofe to the N. E. Point of the main land, which I called Cape North. E e 2 Tlfc 1775- The S. E. coaft of this land, as far as we faw it, lies in the iJ-d""liy' / direction of S. 500 Eaft, and N. 500 Weft. It feemed to form Monday 16. fevcrai kavs or inlets ; and we obferved huge mafic s of fnow, or ice, in the bottoms of them, efpecially in one which lies ten miles to the S. S. E. of Bird Hie. After getting through the paffage, we found the North Coaft trended E. by N., for about nine miles; and then Eaft and Eaft foutherly to Cape Bullcr, which is eleven miles more. We ranged the coaft, at one league diftance, till near ten o'clock, when we brought to for the night, and on founding, found fifty fathoms a muddy bottom. Tuefday 17. At two o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we made fail in for the land, with a fine breeze at S. W.; at four, Willis's Ifle bore W. by S., diftant thirty-two miles; Cape Buller, to the Weft of which lie fome rocky iflots, bore S. W. by W.j and the moft advanced point of land to the Eaft, S. 630 Eaft. We now fleered along fhore, at the diftance of four or five miles, till feven o'clock, when, feeing the appearance of an inlet, we hauled in for it. As foon as we drew near the fhore, having hoifted out a boat, I embarked in it, accompanied by Mr. Forfter and his party, with a view of reconoitring the bay before we ventuied in with the fhip. When we put off from her, which was about four miles from the fhore, we had forty fathoms water. I continued to found as I went farther in, but found no bottom with a line of thirty-four fathoms, which was the length of that I had in the boat, and which alfo proved too fhort to found the bay, fo far as I went tip it. I obferved it to lie in S. W. by S. about two leagues, about two miles broad, well flickered from all winds ; and I judged there might be good anchorage before fome fandy beaches which are on each fide, and hkewife near a low flat iile, to-4 wards 7374 ^3540747 wards the head of the bay. As I had come to a refolution /77S- i_ n -i January. not to bring the fhip in, I did not think it worth my while to <-,-1 . r-ry-ri. go and examine thefe places; for it did not fcem probable that any one would ever be benefited by the difcovery. I landed in three different places, difplayed our colours, and took pof-feflion of the country in his Majefty's name, under a difcharge of fmall arms. I judged that the tide rifes about four or five feet, and that it is high water on the full and change days about eleven o'clock. The head of the bay, as well as two places on each fide, was terminated by perpendicular ice-cliffs of confiderable height. Pieces were continually breaking off, and floating out to feaj and a great fall happened while we were in the bay, which made a noife like cannon. The inner parts of the country were not lefs favage and horrible. The wild rocks raifed their lofty fummits, till they were loft in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlafting fnow. Not a tree was to be feen, nor a fhrub even big enough to make a toothpick. The only vegetation we met with, was a coarfe ftrong-bhtded grafs growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like mofs, which fprung from the rocks. Seals, or fea bears, were pretty numerous. They were fmalier than thofe at Staten Land ; perhaps the moft of thofe . we faw were females; for the fhores fwarmed with young cubs. We faw none of that fort which we call lions ; but there were fome of thofe which the writer of Lord Anfon's Voyage defcribes under that name; at leaft they appeared to *77S- to us to be of the fame fort; and are, in my opinion, very rjaft°!7l/ improperly called lions j for I could not fee any grounds for Tuefday i7. ^ comparifon. Here were feveral flocks of penguins, the larger! I ever faw; fome, which we brought on board, weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds. It appears by Bougainville's account of the animals of Falkland Iflands, that this penguin is there; and I think it is very well defcribed by him under the name of Firfl Clafs of Penguinsf. The Oceanic birds were albatroffes, common gulls, and that fort which I call Port Egmont hens, terns, fhags, divers, the new white bird, and a fmall bird like thofe of the Cape of Good Hope called yellow birds; which, having fliot two, we found mofl delicious food. All the land birds we faw confiftcd of a few fmall larks; nor did we meet with any quadrupeds. Mr. Forflcr indeed obferved fome dung, which he judged to come from a fox, or fome fuch animal. The lands, or rather rocks, bordering on the fea-coafl were not covered with fnow like the inland parts; but all the vegetation we could fee on the clear places was the grafs above mentioned. The rocks feemed to contain iron. Having made the above obfervations, we fet out for the fhip, and got on board a little after twelve o'clock, with a quantity of feals and penguins, an acceptable prefent to the crew. It muff not, however, be undcrflood that we were in want of provifions: we had yet plenty of every kind; and fmce we had been on this coaft, I had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for break-faff; but any kind of frefh meat was preferred by moft on board to fait. For my own part, I was now, for the firft f See Bougainville Englifti Translation, p. 64, time, time, heartily tired of fait meat of every kind; and though iw* the flefh of the penguins could fcarcely vie with bullock's «-<—1* liver, its being frefh was fufhcient to make it go down. I Tuefda/ *7, called the bay we had been in, PoffefTion Bay. It is fituated in the latitude of 540 5' South, longitude 370 18' Weft, and eleven leagues to the Eafl of Cape North. A few miles to the Wefl of Poffefiion Bay, between it and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of Ifles ; fo named on account of feveral fmall ifles lying, in and before it. As foon as the boat was hoifled in, we made fail along the coafl to the Eafl with a fine breeze at W. S. W. From Cape Buller, the direction of the coafl is S. 720 30' Eafl, for the fpace of eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting point which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this Cape, is a pretty large bay, which I named Cumberland" Bay. In feveral parts in the bottom of it, as alfo in fome others of lefs extent, lying between Cape Saunders and Pof-fefhoh Bay, were vaft tracks of frozen fnow, or ice not yet broken loofe. At eight o'clock, being jufl pad Cumberland Bay, and falling little wind, we hauled oif the coafl, from which we were diflant about four miles, and found one hundred and ten fathoms water. We had variable light airs and calms till fix o'clock the Wednef. 18. next morning, when the wind fixed at North and blew a gentle breeze ; but it lafled no longer man ten o'clock, when it fell almofl to a calm. At noon obferved in latitude 540 30' South, being then about two or three leagues from the coafl, which extended from N. 590 W. to S. 130 Wed. The land in this lafl direction was an ifle, which feemed to be the extremity of the coaft to the Eafl. The neareft land to us being a projecting point which terminated in a round hillock, was. i775- was, on account of the day, named Cape Charlotte. On the * -\—» wefl fide of Cape Charlotte lies a bay which obtained the Wed ef. 18. name Qf RQyai Buj^ anc] t}lc Wcil point of it was named. Cape George. It is the eafl point of Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of S. E. by E. from Cape Saunders, diftant feven leagues. Cape George and Cape Charlotte lie in the direction of S. 370 E. and N. 37°'Weft, diftant fix leagues from each othen The ifle above-mentioned, which was called Cooper's Ifle, after my Firfl Lieutenant, lies in the direction of S. by E., diftant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coaft between them forms a large bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich. The wind being variable all the afternoon, we advanced but little; in the night, it fixed at S. and S. S. W., and blew a gentle gale attended with fhowers of fnow. Thurfday 19. The 19th was wholly fpent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and S. S. W., clear pleafant weather, but cold. At fun-rife, a new land was feen bearing S. E. £ E. It firft appeared in a fingle hill like a fugar-loaf; fome time after, other detached pieces appeared above the horizon near the hill. At noon obferved in the latitude 540 42' 30" S„ Cape Charlotte bearing N. 38° Weft, diftant four leagues; and Cooper's Ifle S. 31n Weft. In this fituation a lurking rock, which lies off Sandwich Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. 7 North, diftant one mile, and near this rock were feveral breakers. In the afternoon we had a profpect of a ridge of mountain?, behind Sandwich Bay, whofe lofty and icy fummits were elevated high above the clouds. The wind continued at S. S. W. till fix o'clock, when it fell to a calm. At this time Cape Charlotte bore N. 31° Weft, and Cooper's Ifland W. S. W. In this fituation we found the variation, by the azimuths, to be u° 39', and by the amplitude, tude, np -t2.'.Eaft. At ten o'clock, a light breeze fpringing 1775. up at North, we fleered to the South till twelve, and then \-Jli brought to for the night. At two o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we made fail Friday 2Q*. to S. W. round Cooper's Ifland. It is a rock of confiderable height, about five miles in circuit, and one mile from the main. At this ifle the main coafl takes a S. W. direction for the fpace of four or five leagues to a point, which I called Cape Difappointmcnt. Off that, are three fmall ifles, the fouthernmofl of which is green, low, and flat, and lies one league from the Cape. As we advanced to S. \V., land opened, off this point, in the direction of N. 6o° Wefl, and nine leagues beyond it. Jt proved an ifland quite detached from the main, and obtained the name of Pickerfgill Iiland, after my third officer. Soon after, a point of the main, beyond this iiland, came in fight, in the direction of N. 550 WTcft; which exactly united the coafl at the very point we had feen, and taken the bear-ing of, the day we firfl came in with it, and proved to a de-monflration that this land, which wc had taken for part of a great continent, was no more than an iiland of feventy leagues in circuit. Who would have thought that an iiland of no greater extent than this, fituated between the latitude of 54.0 and 55% mould, in the very height of fummcr, be, in a manner, wholly covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen fnow; but more efpecially the S. W. coaft? The very fides and craggy fummits of the lofty mountains were cafed with fnow and ice; but the quantity which lay in the valleys is incredible ; and at the bottom of the bays, the coafl was terminated by a Vol. II. F f wall *775- wall of ice of confidcrablc height. It can hardly be doubted —that a great deal of ice is formed here in the winter, which, lay z0' in the fpring, is broken off, and difperfed over the fea; but this iiland cannot produce the ten-thoufandth part of what we faw; fo that either there muff be more land, or the ice is formed without it. Thefe reflexions led me to think that the land we had feen the preceding day, might belong to an extenfive track; and I flill had hopes of difcovering a continent. I mufl confefs the difappointment I now met with, did not affect me much j for, to judge of the bulk by the fample, it would not be worth the difcovery. I called this land the Ifle of Georgia in honour of his Ma-jefty. It is fituatcd between the latitudes of S3° Si' ana< 540 57' South ; and between 380 13' and 350 34/ Wefl longitude. It extends S. E. by E. and N. W. by W., and is thirty-one leagues long in that direction ; and its greatefl breadth is about ten leagues. It feems to abound with bays and harbours, the N. E. coafl efpecially j but the vafl quantity of ice mufl render them inaccefliblc, the greatefl part of the year; or, at leafl, it mufl be dangerous lying in them, on account of the breaking up of the ice cliffs. It is remarkable that we did not fee a river, or flream of frefli water, on the whole coaft. I think it highly probable that there are no perennial fprings in the country ; and that the interior parts, as being much elevated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the fnow in fuch quantities as to produce a river or flream of water. The coaft alone receives warmth fufficicnt to melt the fnow, and this only on the N. E. fide; for the other, befides being expofed to the cold fouth winds, is n a great degree deprived of the fun's rays by the uncommon height of the mountains. 2 It It was from a perfuafion that the fea-coaft of a land fitu- 1775. ated in the latitude of 540, could not, in the very height of u— fummer, be wholly covered with fnow, that I fuppofed Frlda> 20' Bouvefs difcovery to be large iflands of ice. But after I had feen this land, I no longer hefitcd about the exigence of Cape Circumcifion ; nor did I doubt that I mould find more land than I mould have time to explore. With thefe ideas I quitted this coafl, and directed my courfe to the E. S. E. for the land we had feen the precedmg day. The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed at N N. E., and blew a gentle gale; but it increafed in fuch a manner, that, before three o'clock, we were reduced to our two courfes and obliged to flrikc top-gallant yards. We were very fortunate in getting clear of the land, before this gale overtook us ; it being hard to fay what might have been the confequence had it come on while we were on the north coafl. This florm was of fhort duration ; for, at eight o'clock, it began to abate; and at midnight it was little wind. We then took the opportunity to found, but found no bottom with a line of an hundred and eighty fathoms. Next day the florm was fucceeded by a thick fog attended Saturday at. with rain; the wind veered to N. W., and at five in the morning it fell calm, which continued till eight; and then we got a breeze foutherly, with which we flood to the Eafl till three in the afternoon. The weather then coming fomewhat clear, we made fail and fleered North in fearch of the land; but, at half pad fix, we were again involved in a thick mifl, which made it neceffary to haul the wind, and fpend the night making fhort boards. F f a We We had variable light airs next to a calm, and thick foggy weather, till half pall feven o'clock in the evening of the 22d, when wc got a fine breeze at North, and the weather was fo clear that we could fee two or three leagues round us. Wc feized the opportunity, and fleered to Weft; judging we were to the Eafl of the land. After running ten miles to the Wefl, the weather became again foggy, and we hauled the wind, and fpent the night under top-fails. Monday 23. Next morning at fix o'clock, the fog clearing away fo that we could fee three or four milc3, I took the opportunity to fleer again to the Wefl, with the wind at Eafl, a frefh breeze ; but two hours after, a thick fog once more obliged us to haul the wind to the South. At eleven o'clock, a fhort interval of clear weather gave us view of three or four rocky iflots extending from S. E. to E. N. E., two or three miles diflant; but we did not fee the Sugar Loaf Peak before mentioned. Indeed, two or three miles was the extent of our horizon. We were well allured, that this was the land we had feen before, which we had now been quite round ; and therefore it could be no more than a few detached rocks} receptacles for birds, of which we now faw vail numbers, efpecially fhags, who gave us notice of the vicinity of land before we faw it. Thefe rocks lie in the latitude of 550 S,, and S., 750 E., diflant twelve leagues, from Cooper's Ifle. The interval of clear weather was of very fhort duration, before we had as thick a fog as ever, attended with rain, on which we tacked in fixty fathoms water, and flood to the North. Thus we fpent our time involved in a continual thick mift; and, for aught we knew, furrounded by dangerous rocks. The fhags, and foundings were our befl pilots j 1775- January. Sui;day 22. pilots; for after wc had flood a few miles to the North, we 1775- , r January. got out or foundings, and faw no more fhags. The iuc- 1 ..^ ceeding day and night, were fpent in making fhort boards; ay 23' and at eight o'clock on the 24-th, judging ourfelves not far Tuefday 24. from the rocks by fome flraggling fhags which came about us, we founded in fixty fathoms water, the bottom flones and broken fhells. Soon after, we faw the rocks bearing S. S. W. i W., four miles diflant, but flill we did not fee the Peak. It was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was limited to a fhort diftance; and, indeed, we had but a tran-fient fight of the other rocks, before they were again loft in the fog. With a light air of wind at North, and a great fwell from N. E., we were able to clear the rocks to the Weft; and, at four in the P. M., judging ourfelves to be three or four leagues Eaft and Weft of them, I fleered South, being quite tired wich cruizing about them in a thick fog; nor was it worth my while to fpend any more time in waiting for clear weather, only for the fake of having a good fight of a few flraggling rocks. At feven o'clock, we had, at intervals, a clear Iky to the Weft, which gave us a fight of the mountains of the Ifle of Georgia, bearing W. N. W., about eight leagues diftant. At eight o'clock we fleered S. E. by S., and at ten S. E. by E., with a frefli breeze at North,, attended with a very thick fog ; but we were, in fome meafure, acquainted with the fea over which we were running. The rocks above mentioned obtained the name of Clcrke's Rocks, after my fecond officer, he being the firfl who faw them. CHAP. CHAP. VI. Proceedings after leaving the Ife of Georgia, and an Account of the Difcovery of Sandwich Land; with fome Reafonsfor there being Land about the South Pole. 1775. ^~\N tne 25m we Peered E. S. E., with a frefh gale at ^ January^ y^jf ^ N< gj, ^ atten(jeci w;th foggy weather, till towards the Wednef. 25. evcn{ngi when the fky becoming clear, we found the variation to be 90 261 Eafl, being at this time in the latitude of 56° 16' S., longitude 320 the wind falling and veering to S. W., we fleered N. E.; but this courfe was foon intercepted by numerous ice-iflands ; and, having but very little wind, we were obliged to fleer fuch courfes as carried us the clearer! of them; fo that we hardly made any advance, one way or other, during the whole day. Abundance of whales and penguins were about us all the time ; and the weather fair, but dark and gloomy. Monday 30. At midnight the wind began to frefhen at N. N. E., with which wc flood to N. W., till fix in the morning of the 30th, when the wind veering to N. N. W., wc tacked and flood to N. E., and foon after failed through a good deal of loofe ice, and pafTed two large iflands. Except a fhort interval of clear weather about nine o'clock, it was continually foggy, with either fleet or fnow. At noon we were, by our reckoning, in the latitude of 59° 30' S,, longitude 29° 24' Weft. Continuing to ftand to N. E. with a frefli breeze at N. N. W., at two o'clock, we palled one of the largeft ice-iflands we had feen in the voyage, and fome time after pafled two others, which were much fmallcr. Weather ftill foggy, with fleet; and the wind continued at N. by W,, with which we flood to JN. E., over a fea flrewcd with ice. 4 At At half an hour pad fix next morning, as we were ftand- 1775- * tJ 1 January* ing N. N. E,, with the wind at Weft, the fog very fortunately ^—*- Tuefday 31. clearing away a little, we difcovered land a-head, three or four miles diftant. On this we hauled the wind to the North; but finding we could not weather the land on this tack, we foon after tacked in one hundred and feventy-five fathoms water, three miles from the fhore, and about half a league from fome breakers. The weather then cleared up a little more, and gave us a tolerably good fight of the land. That which we had fallen in with proved three rocky iflots of con-fiderable height. The outermoft terminated in a lofty peak like a fugar-loaf, and obtained the name of Freezeland Peak, after the man who firft difcovered it. Latitude 590 S., longitude 270 Weft. Behind this Peak, that is to the Eaft of it, appeared an elevated coaft, whofe lofty fnow-clad fummits were feen above the clouds. It extended from N. by E., to E. S. E., and I called it Cape Briftol, in honour of the noble family of Hcrvey. At the fame time another elevated coafl appeared in fight, bearing S. W. by S., and at noon it extended from S. E. to S. S. W. from four to eight leagues diftant j at this time the obferved latitude was 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 270 45' Weft. I called this land Southern Thule, becaufe it is the moft fouthern land that has ever yet been difcovered. It fliews a furface of vafl height, and is every where covered with fnow. Some thought they faw land in the fpace between Thule and Cape Briftol. It is more than probable that thefe two lands are connected, and that this fpace is a deep bay, which I called For tier's Bay. At one o'clock, finding that we could not weather Thule* we tacked and flood to the North, and at four, Freezeland Peak bore Eaft, diftant three or four leagues. Soon after it Vol. II. G g , fell i77S» fell little wind, and we were left to the mercy of a great L-e-rv-ryQ wefterly fwell, which fet right upon the fhore. We founded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. At eight o'clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, we faw Cape Briftol bearing E. S. E., and terminating in a point to the North, beyond which we could fee no land. This difcovery relieved us from the fear of being carried by the fwell on the moft horrible coaft in the world, and we continued to ftand to the North all night, with a light breeze at Weft. Wednef. i. On the ift of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we got fight of a new coaft, which at fix o'clock bore N. 6o° Eaft. It proved a high promontory, which I named Cape Montagu", fituated in latitude 580 27' S., longitude 260 44' Weft, and feven or eight leagues to the north of Cape Briftol. We faw land from fpace to fpace between them, which made me conclude that the whole was connected. I was forry I could not determine this with greater certainty; but prudence would not permit me to venture near a coaft, fubject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage; where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole country, from the fummits of the mountains, down to the very brink of the cliffs which terminate the coaft, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlafting fnow. The cliffs alone was all which was to be feen like land. Several large ice iflands lay upon the coaft ; one of which attracted my notice. It had a flat furface, was of confiderable extent both in height and circuit, and had perpendicular fides, on which the waves of the fea had made no impreffion; by which I judged that it had not been long from land, and that it might have lately come out of fome bay on the coaft, where it had been formed, 1 - At AND ROUND THE WORLD. 227 At noon we were Eaft and Weft of the northern part of 1775. February. Cape Montagu, diftant about five leagues, and Freezeland i_v--^ Peak bore S. 160 Eaft, diftant twelve leagues; latitude ob- e ne '* ferved 580 25' S. In the morning the variation was io° 11/ Eaft. At two in the afternoon, as we were Handing to the North, with a light breeze at S. W,, we faw land bearing N. 25' Eaft, diftant fourteen leagues. Cape Montagu bore at this time, S. 66° Eaft; at eight it bore S. 40° Eaft; Cape Briftol, S. by E.; the new land extending from N. 400 to 520 Eaft; and we thought we faw land ftill more to the Eaft, and beyond it. Continuing to fteer to the North all night, at fix o'clock the Thurfday z. next morning, a new land was feen bearing N. 12 Eaft, about ten leagues diftant. It appeared in two hummocks juft peeping above the horizon; but we foon after loft light of them; and having got the wind at N. N. E., a frefh breeze, we flood for the northernmofl land wc had feen the day before, which at this time bore E. S. E. We fetched in with it by ten o'clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles from the coaft, which extended from E. by S. to S. E., and had much the appearance of being an ifland of about eight or ten leagues circuit. It fliews a furface of confiderable height, whofe fummit was loft in the clouds, and like all the neighbouring lands, covered with a fheet of fnow and ice, except on a projecting point on the north fide, and two hills feen over this point, which probably might be two iflands. Thefe only were clear of fnow, and feemed covered with a green turf. Some large ice iflands lay to the N. E., and fome others to the South. We flood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to fee whether it was an ifland or no. The weather G g 2 was J77S> was now become very hazy, which foon turning: to a thick February. i • «—-v----1 fog, put a flop to difcovery, and made it unfafe to fland for Thurfday 2. ^ q^qx^ . f0 mat after having run the fame diftance in, as we had run ofF, we tacked and flood to N. W., for the land we had feen in the morning, which was yet at a confiderable diftance. Thus we were obliged to leave the other, under the fuppo-fition of its being an ifland, which 1 named Saunders, after my honourable friend Sir Charles. It is fituated in the latitude of 570 49' South j longitude 260 44' Weft; and North, diftant thirteen leagues, from Cape Montagu. At fix o'clock in the evening, the wind fhifting to the Weft, we tacked, and flood to the North; and at eight the fog clearing away, gave us a fight of Saunders's Ifle, extending from S. E. by S. to E. S. E. We were ftill in doubt if it were an ifland ; for, at this time, land was feen bearing E. by S., which might, or might not be, connected with it; it might alfo be the fame that we had feen the preceding evening. But, be this as it may, it was now neceffary to take a view of the land to the North before we proceeded any farther to the Eaft. With this intention, we flood to the North, having a light breeze at W. by S., which, at two o'clock in the morning of rriday 3. the 3d, was fucceeded by a calm that continued till eight, when we got the wind at E. by S. attended with hazy weather. At this time we faw the land we were looking for, and which proved to be two ifles. The day on which they were difcovered, was the occafion of calling them Candlemas Ifles; latitude 570 11'S., longitude 270 6'W. They are of no great extent, but of confiderable height, and were covered with fnow. A fmall rock was feen between them, and perhaps there may be more for the weather was fo hazy that we foon loft fight of the iflands, and did not fee 7 them AND ROUND THE WORLD. 229 them ao;ain till noon, at which time they bore Weft, diflant J775- 0 1 J February. three or four leagues. T)TV~~""-' ° raclay 3. As the wind kept veering to the South we were obliged to fland to the N. E., in which route we met with feveral large ice iflands, loofe ice, and many penguins ; and, at midnight, came at once into water uncommonly white, which alarmed the officer of the watch fo much that he tacked the fhip inflantly. Some thought it was a float of ice; others that it was fhallow water; but, as it proved neither, probably it was a fhoal of fifh. We flood to the South till two o'clock next morning, when Saturday 4. wc refumcd our courfe to the Eafl with a faint breeze at s. S. E., which having ended in a calm, at fix, I took the opportunity of putting a boat in the water to try if there were any current ; and the trial proved there was none. Some whales were playing about us, and abundance of penguins ; a few of the latter were fhot, and they proved to be of the fame fort that we had feen among the ice before, and different both from thofe on Staten Land, and from thofe at the Ifle of Georgia. It is remarkable, that we had not feen a feal fince we left that coafl. At noon we were in the latitude of 560 44/ S,, longitude 250 33' W. At this time wc got a breeze at Eafl, with which wc flood to the South, with a view of gaining the coafl we had left; but at eight o'clock, the wind fhiftcd to the South, and made it neceffary to tack and fland to the Eafl; in which courfe wc met with feveral ice iflands and fome loofe ice; the weather continuing hazy with fnow and rain. No penguins were feen on the 5th, which made me con- Sunday 5, jeclure that we were leaving the land behind us, and that we l775« February, 1-<-' Sunday 5. Monday 6, we had already feen its northern extremity. At noon we were in the latitude of 570 8' S., longitude 230 34' Weft, which was 30 of longitude to the Eafl of Saunders's Ifle. In the afternoon the wind fhifted to the Wefl, this enabled us to flretch to the South, and to get into the latitude of the land, that, if it took an Eafl direction, we might again fall in with it. We continued to fleer to the South and S. E. till next day at noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 580 15' S., longitude 210 34' Wefl, and feeing neither land nor figns of any, I concluded that what we had feen, which I named Sandwich Land, was either a group of iflands, or elfe a point of the continent. For I firmly believe that there is a track of land near the pole which is the fource of mofl of the ice that is fprcad over this vafl Southern Ocean. I alfo think it probable that it extends farthefl to the North oppofite the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans j becaufe ice was always found by us farther to the North in thefe oceans than any where elfe, which I judge could not be, if there were not land-to the South; I mean a land of confiderable extent. For if we fuppofe that no fuch land exifts, and that ice may be formed without it, it will follow of courfe that the cold ought to be every where nearly equal round the pole, as far as 70° or Go0 of latitude, or fo far as to be beyond the influence of any of the known continents; confequently we ought to fee ice every where under the fame parallel, or near it: and yet the contrary has been found. Very few fhips have met with ice going round Cape Horn; and we faw but little below the fixtieth degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this ocean, between the meridian of 400 Weil and 500 or Go0 Ea(t, wc found ice as as far North as ci°. Bouvet met with fome in 480; and *775- 1 February. others have feen it in a much lower latitude. It is true, ^---s~« however, that the greatefl part of this fouthern continent °n y (fuppofing there is one) mufl lie within the polar circle, where the fea is fo peflered with ice that the land is thereby inacceffible. The rifque one runs in exploring a coafl, in thefe unknown and icy feas, is fo very great, that I can be bold enough to fay that no man will ever venture farther than I have done; and that the lands which may lie to the South will never be explored. Thick fogs, fnow florms, intenfe cold, and every other thing that can render navigation dangerous, mufl be encountered; and thefe difficulties are greatly heightened, by the inexpreffibly horrid afpect of the country ; a country doomed by Nature never once to feel the warmth of the fun's rays, but to lie buried in everlafling fnow and ice. The ports which may be on the coafl, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen fnow of vafl thick-nefs; but if any fhould be fo far open as to invite a fhip into it, fhe would run a rifque of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in an ice ifland. The iflands and floats on the coafl, the great falls from the ice cliffs in the port, or a heavy fnow florm attended with a fharp froft, would be equally fatal. After fuch an explanation as this, the reader mufl not expect to find me much farther to the South. It was, however, not for want of inclination, but for other reafons. It would have been rafhnefs in me to have rifqued all that had been done during the voyage, in difcovering and exploring a coafl, which, when difcovered and explored, would have anfwered no end whatever, or have been of the leafl ufe, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other feience. Bouvet's difcovery was yet before us, the exiflence: exiftenceof which was to be cleared up; and, befides all this, we were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor indeed was there time, had we been ever fo well provided. Thefe reafons induced me to alter the courfe to Eafl, with a very flrong gale at North, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of fnow. The quantity which lodged in our fails was fo great, that we were frequently obliged to throw the fhip up in the wind to fhake it out of them, otherwife neither they nor the fhip could have fupportcd the weight. In the evening it ceafed to fnow ; the weather cleared up; the wind backed to the Wefl; and we fpent the night in making two fhort boards, under clofe reefed top-fails and fore-fail. At day-break on the 7 th, we refumed our courfe to the Eafl, with a very frefli gale at S. W. by W. attended by a high fea from the fame direction. In the afternoon, being in the latitude of 580 24' S.» longitude 160 19' Wefl, the variation was i° 52' Eafl. Only three ice iflands feen this day. At eight o'clock, fhortened fail, and hauled the wind to the S, E. for the night, in which we had feveral fhowers of fnow and fleet. On the eighth at day-light, we refumed our eafl courfe with a gentle breeze and fair weather. After fun-rife, being then in the latitude of 580 30' S„ longitude 150 14' Wefl; the variation, by the mean remits of two compaffes, was 20 43' Eaft. Thefe obfervations were more to be depended on than thofe made the night before, there being much lefs fea now than then. In the afternoon, we pafled three ice iflands. This night was fpent as the preceding. At At fix next morninq;, be ins: in the latitude of 58° 27' S, *775> longitude 130 4' W„ the variation was s>6' E.; and in the -—---* " 1 ThurfJay 9. afternoon, being in the fame latitude, and about a quarter of a degree more to the Eafl, it was 2' Well. Therefore this laft fituation muft be in or near the line in which the compafs has no variation. We had a calm the moft part of the day. The weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a fnow fhower. The mercury in the thermometer at noon rofe to 40; whereas for feveral days before, it had been no higher than 36 or 38. We had feveral ice iflands in fight, but no one thing that could induce us to think that any land was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening a breeze fprung up at S. E. with which we flood to N. E. During the night, the wind freihened and veered to South, which enabled us to fleer Eafl. The wind was attended with fhowers of fleet and fnow till day-light, when the weather M**Y t0« became fair, but piercing cold, fo that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in the thermometer was no higher than 34 At fix o'clock in the morning, the variation was 23' Weft, being then in the latitude of 58° 15' S., longitude n° 41' W.; and at fix in the evening, being in the fame latitude, and in the longitude of 90 24! W. it was i° 51' W. In the evening the wind abated ; and, during the night, it was variable between South and Weft. Ice iflands continually in fight. On the 1 ith, wind wefterly, light airs attended with heavy Saturday u fhowers of fnow in the morning; but, as the day advanced, the weather became fair, clear, and ferene. Still continuing to fleer Eafl, at noon we obferved in latitude 580 n', longitude at the fame time 70 55' Weft. Thermometer 34 *. In the afternoon we had two hours calm, after which we had faint breezes between the N. E. and S. E. Vol. IL H h At 1775. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 12th, being in the ™l™yl, latitude of 580 23' S., longitude 6° 54' W., the variation was Sunday 12. ^ %^ w We had variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was fair and clear till towards the evening, when it became cloudy with fnow fhowers, and the air very cold. Ice iflands continually in fight j moft of them fmall and breaking to pieces. Monday 13. in the afternoon of the 13th, the wind increafed, the fky became clouded, and foon after we had a very heavy fall of fnow, which continued till eight or nine o'clock in the evening, when the wind abating and veering to S. E., the fky cleared up, and we had a fair night, attended with fo fharp a froft, that the water in all our veffels on deck was next morning covered with a fheet of ice. The mercury in the thermometer was as low as 290, which is 30 below freezing, or rather 4 *, for we generally found the water freeze when the mercury flood at 330. Tuefday 14. Towards noon on the 14th, the wind veering to the South, increafed to a very flrong gale, and blew in heavy fqualls attended with fnow. At intervals, between the fqualls, the weather was fair and clear, but exceedingly cold. We continued to fleer Eaft, inclining a little to the North, and in the afternoon croffed the firfl meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of $f 50' S. At eight in the evening, we clofe-recfed the top-fails, took in the main-fail, and fleered Eaft with a very hard gale at S. S. W., and a high fea from the fame direction. Wednef 15. At day-break on the 15th, we fet the main-fail, loofed a reef out of each top-fail, and with a very flrong gale at S. W., and fair weather, fleered E. N. E. till noon, at which time we were in the latitude of 560 37' S., longitude 40 11' Eaft, when 5 wc we pointed to the N. E., in order to o;et into the latitude of 1775- . >r r. r 1 February. Cape Circumcilion. Some large iec-iilands were in ngnf, <--—» and the air was nearly as cold as on the preceding day. At ** eight o'clock in the evening, fhortened fail, and at eleven hauled the wind to the N. W., not daring to ftand on in the night, which was foggy, with fnow-fhowers, and a fmart froft. At day-break on the 16th, we bore awayN. E., with alight Thurfday 16. breeze at Weft, which, at noon, was fucceeded by a calm and fair weather. Our latitude at this time was 550 26' S., longitude 50 52 Eaft., in which fituation we had a great fwell from the fouthward, but no ice in fight. At one o'clock in the P. M., a breeze fpringing up at E. N. E., we flood to S. E. till fix, then tacked, and flood to the North, under double-reefed top-fails and courfes, having a very frefli gale attended with fnow and fleet, which fixed to the malls and rigging as it fell, and coated the whole with ice. On the 17th the wind continued veering, by little and little Friday 17. to the South, till midnight, when it fixed at S.W. Being at this time in the latitude of 540 20' S., longitude 6° 33' Eafl, I fleered Eafl, having a prodigious high fea from the South, which allured us no land was near in that direction. In the morning of the 18th, it ceafed to fnow j the weather Snturday 18. became fair and clear *, and we found the variation to be 130 44' Wefl. At noon we were in the latitude of 540 25', longitude 8° 46' Eafl. I thought this a good latitude to keep in, to look for Cape Circumcifion ; becaufe, if the land had ever fo little extent in the direction of North and South, we could not mifs feeing it, as the northern point is faid to lie in 540. Wc had yet a great fwell from the South, fo that I was now well H h 2 affured affured it could only be an ifland; and it was of no confe-quence which fide we fell in with. In the evening, Mr. Sa.urday 18. -y^aies mac]e feveral obfervations of the moon, and ftars Re-gulus and Spica; the mean remits, at four o'clock when the obfervations were made, for finding the time by the watch, gave 90 15' 20" Eaft longitude. The watch at the fame time gave 90 36' 45". Soon after the variation was found to be 130 10' Weft. It is nearly in this fituation that Mr. Bouvet had i° Eaft. I cannot fuppofe that the variation has altered fo much fince that time; but rather think he had made fome miftake in his obfervations. That there could be none in ours was certain, from the uniformity for fome time paft. Befides, we found 120 8' Wefl, variation, nearly under this meridian, in January 1773. During the night the wind veered round by the N. W. to N. N. E., and blew a frefli gale. Sunday 19. At eight in the morning of the 19th, we faw the appearance of land in the direction of E. by S., or that of our courfe * but it proved a mere fog-bank, and foon after difperfed. We continued to fleer E. by S. and S. E., till feven o'clock in the evening, when, being in the latitude of 540 42' S., longitude 130 3' Eafl, and the wind having veered to N. E., we tacked and flood to N. W. under clofe-reefed top-fails and courfes; having a very flrong gale attended with fnow-fhowers. Monday zo. At four o'clock next morning, being in the latitude of 540 30' S., longitude 120 33' Eafl, we tacked and ftrctched to N. E. with a frefli gale at S. W., attended with fnow-fliowers and fleet. At noon, being in the latitude of 540 8' S., longitude 120 59' E., with a frefli gale at W. by N., and tolerably dear weather, we fleered Eafl till ten o'clock in the evening, when when we brought to, led we might pafs any land in the ^775 night, of which we however had not the leafl figns. »—*** At day-break, having made fail, we bore away Eaft, and Tuefday at noon obferved in latitude 540 16' S., longitude 16° 13' Eafl, which is 50 to the Eaft of the longitude in which Cape Cir-cumcifion is faid to lie ; fo that we began to think there was no fuch land in cxiflence. I however continued to fleer Eafl, inclining a little to the South, till four o'clock in the after--noon of the next day, when we were in latitude 540 24' S., Wednef, longitude 190 18' Eafl. We had now run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in the very latitude affigned for Bouvct's Land. I was therefore well affurcd that what he had feen could be nothing but an ifland of ice ; for, if it had been land, it is hardly pofhble we could have miffed it, though it were ever fo fjmall. Befides, from the time of leaving the fouthern lands, we had not met with the leafl figns of any other. But even fuppofe we had, it would have been no proof of the exiftence of Cape (2ir-cumcifion ; for I am well affured that neither feals, nor penguins, nor any of the oceanic birds are indubitable figns of the vicinity of land. I will allow that they are found on the coafls of all thefe fouthern lands; but are they not alfo to be found in all parts of the fouthern ocean ? There are, however, fome oceanic or aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of land; efpecially fhags, which feldom go out of fight of it; and gannets, boobies, and men of war birds, I believe, feldom go very far out to fea. As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude from our route to the South, when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpofe to proceed any farther to the Eafl * under 1775- under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there. ^February ^ opportunity now offering of clearing up fome doubts. of our having feen land farther to the South, I fleered S. E. to get into the fituation in which it was fuppofed to lie. Wednef. 22. Thurfday 23. We continued this courfe till four o'clock the next morning, and then S. E. by E. and E. S. E., till eight in the evening, at which time we were in the latitude of 550 25' S., longitude 230 22' Eaft, both deduced from obfervations made the fame day; for, in the morning, the fky was clear at intervals, and afforded an opportunity to obferve feveral diftances of the fan and moon, which we had not been able to do for fome time paft, having had a conftant fucceflion of bad weather. Having now run over the place where the land was fuppofed to lie, without feeing the leafl figns of any, it was no longer to be doubted but that the ice-iflands had deceived us as well as Mr. Bouvet. The wind by this time having veered to the North, and increafed to a perfect florm, attended as ufual with fnow and fleet, we handed the top-fails and hauled up E. N. E. under the courfes. During the night the wind abated, and veered to N. W., which enabled us to fleer more to the North, having no bufinefs farther South. G II A P. C II A P. VII. Heads of what has been done in the Foyage; with fome ConjeEiures concerning the Formation of Ice-iflands ; and an Accotmt of our Proceedings till our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, IHAD now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a 1775. high latitude, and trayerfed it in fuch a manner as to tFet^2 leave not the lead room for the poffibility of there being a continent, unlefs near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation.' By twice vifiting the tropical fea, I had not only fettled the fituation-of fome old difcoveries, but made there many new ones, and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that part. Thus I flatter myfelf, that the intention of the voyage has, in every refpect, been fully an-fwered; the fouthern hemifphere fufficiently explored; and a final end put to the fearching after a fouthern continent, which has, at times, ingroffed the attention of fome of the maritime powers, for near two centuries pafi, and been a favourite theory amongfl the geographers of all ages. That there may be a continent, or large traeT of land, near 1 the pole, I will not deny; on the contrary, I am of opinion there is; and it is probable that we have feen a part of it.. The exceffive cold, the many iflands and vail floats of ice, all tend to prove that there mufl be land to the South ; and for. my perfuafion that this fouthern land mufl lie, or extend* farthefl farthcft to the North, oppofite to the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, I have already affigned fome reafons ; to which I may add the greater degree of cold experienced by us in thefe feas, than in the Southern Pacific Ocean under the fame parallels of latitude. In this laft ocean, the mercury in the thermometer feldom fell fo low as the freezing point, till we were in 6o° and upwards ; whereas in the others, it fell as low in the latitude of 54°. This was certainly owing to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its extending farther to the North, in thefe two fcas than in the South Pacific; and if ice be firfl formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow that the land alfo extends farther North. The formation or coagulation of ice-iflands has not, to my knowledge, been thoroughly inveftigated. Some have fup-pofed them to be formed by the freezing of the water at the mouths of large rivers, or great cataracts, where they accumulate till they are broken off by their own weight. My obfervations will not allow me to acquiefce in this opinion; becaufe we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with earth, or any of its produce, as I think it muft have been, had it been coagulated in land waters. It is a doubt with me, whether there be any rivers in thefe countries. It is certain, that we faw not a river, or flream of water, on all the coaft of Georgia, nor on any of the fouthern lands. Nor did we ever fee a flream of water run from any of the ice-iflands. How are we then to fuppofe that there are large rivers ? The vallies are covered, many fathoms deep, with everlafting fnow; and, at the fea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vafl height. It is here where the ice-iflands are formed j not from flreams of water, but from from confolidated fnow and fleet, which is, almofl conti- 1775. . . . 1 r- t • r February. nually, falling or drifting down from the mountains, eipe- l— cially in the winter, when the frofl mufl be intenfe. During that feafon, the ice cliffs mufl fo accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever fo large. This is a fact: which cannot be doubted, as we have feen it fo in fummer. Thefe cliffs accumulate by continual falls of fnow, and what drifts from the mountains, till they are no longer able to fupport their own weight; and then large pieces break off, which we call ice iflands. Such as have a flat even furface, mull be of the ice formed in the bays, and before the flat vallies ; the others, which have a tapering unequal furface, mufl be formed on, or under, the fide of a coafl compofed of pointed rocks and precipices, or fome fuch uneven furface. For we cannot fuppofe that fnow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain furface, fuch as the fea, fuch a variety of high peaks and hills, as we faw on many of the ice ifles. It is certainly more reafonable to believe that they arc formed on a coaft whofe furface is fomething fimilar to theirs. I have obferved that all the ice iflands of any extent, and before they begin to break to pieces, arc terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice or frozen fnow, always 011 one or more fides, but moft generally all round. Many, and thofe of the largeft fize, which had a hilly and fpiral furface, fhewed a perpendicular cliff or fide from the fummit of the higheft peak down to its bafc. This to me was a convincing proof, that thefe, as well as the flat iiles, muft have broken off from fubftances like themfclves; that is from fome large tract of ice. When I confider the vafl quantity of ice wc faw, and the vicinity of the places to the pole where it is formed, and Vol. II, I i where 1775- where the degrees of longitude are very fmall, I am led to February. v mm^mjt believe that thefe ice cliffs extend a good way into the fea, in fome parts, efpecially in fuch as are meltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever the wind is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the fea will freeze over, or the fnow that falls upon it, which amounts to the fame thing, we have inflances in the northern hemifphere. The Baltic, the Gulph of Saint Laurence, the Straits of Belle-Ifle, and many other equally large feas, are frequently frozen over in winter. Nor is this at all extraordinary ; for we have found the degree of cold at the furface of the fea, even in fummer, to be two degrees below the freezing point; confequently nothing kept it from freezing but the falts it contains, and the agitation of its furface. Whenever this lafl ceafeth in winter, when the froft is fet in, and there comes a fall of fnow, it will freeze on the furface as it falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in one night, form fuch a fheet of ice as will not be ealily broken up. Thus a foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thicknefs by falls of fnow, without its being at all neceifary for the fea water to freeze. It may be, by this means, thefe vafl: floats of low ice we find in the fpring of the year are formed, and which, after they break up, are carried by the currents to the North. For, from all the obfervations I have been able to make, the currents every where, in the high latitudes, fet to the North, or to the N. E. or N. W.; but we have very feldom found them confiderable* If this imperfect account of the formation of thefe extraordinary floating iflands of ice, which is written wholly from my own obfervations, does not convey fome ufeful hints to an abler pen, it will, however, convey fome idea of 3 the the lands where they arc formed. Lands doomed by Na- '775- J u r February. t,ure to perpetual frigidncfs; never to feel the warmth or v —w- ^ the fun's rays; whofe horrible and favage afpeel I have not words to defcribe. Such are the lands we have difcovered; what then may we expect thofe to be, which lie Hill farther to the South ? For we may reafonably fuppofe that we have feen the heft, as lying moil to the North. If any one fliould have refolution and perfeverance to clear up this point by proceeding farther than I have done, I fhall not envy him the honour of the difcovery ; but I will be bold to fay, that the world will not be benefited by it, I had, at this time, fome thoughts of revifiting the place where the French difcovery is faid to lie. But then I con* fidered that, if they had really made this difcovery, the end would be as fully anfwered as if I had done it myfelf. We know it can only be an ifland; and if we may judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a fertile one. Befides, this would have kept me two months longer at fea, and in a tempefluous latitude, which we were not in a condition to flruggle with. Our fails and rigging were fo much worn, that fomething was giving way every hour; and we had nothing left, either to repair or tore-place them. Our provifions were in a flate of decay, and consequently afforded little nourifhment, and we had been a long time without rcfrefhments. My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them ; but I dreaded the fcurvy Hying hold of them, at a time when we had nothing left to remove it. I mufl fay farther, that it would have been cruel in me to have continued the fatigues and hardfhips they were continually expofed to, longer than was abfo- I i 2 lutely 1775- lutely neceffary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole yj^w voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct: of the officers, they fhewed themfelves capable of furmounting every difficulty and danger which came in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as being at all heightened, by our feparation from our confort the Adventure. All thefe confiderations induced me to lay afide looking for the French difcoveries, and to fleer for the Cape of Good Hope; with a refolution, however, of looking for the Ifles of Denia and Marfeveen, which are laid down in Dr. Hal-ley's variation chart in the latitude of 41;° S., and about 40 of longitude to the Eafl of the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope. With this view I fleered N. E., with a hard Saturday 26. gale at N. W. and thick weather; and on the 26th, at noon, we faw the laft ice ifland, being at this time in the latitude of 520 52' S., longitude 2 6° 3.1' E* The wind abating and veering to the South, on the 21ft of Wednef. i. March, we fleered Wefl, in order to get farther from Mr. Bouvet's track, which was but a few degrees to the Eafl of us; being at this time in the latitude of 460 44' S., longitude 330 20' E., in which fituation we found the variation to be 230 36'W. It is fomewhat remarkable, that all the time we had northerly winds, which were regular, and conflant for feveral days, the weather was always thick and cloudy; but, as foon as they came South of Wefl, it cleared up, and was fine and pleafant. The barometer began to rife feveral days before this change happened; but whether on account of it, or our coming northward, cannot be determined, The The -wind remained not Ion? at South before it veered 1775. round by the N. E. to N. W., blowing frefli and by fqualls, <-Lt.' rA attended, as before, with rain and thick mifty weather. We had fome intervals of clear weather, on the afternoon Friday 3. of the 3d, when we found the variation to be 22° 26' W.; latitude at this time 45° 8' S., longitude 300 50' E. The following night was very flormy; the wind blew from S. W. and in exceflively heavy fqualls. At fhort intervals between the fqualls the wind would fall almofl to a calm, and then come on again with fuch fury, that neither our fails nor digging could withfland it, feveral of the fails being fplit, and a middle flay-fail being wholly loft. The next morning Saturday 4; the gale abated, and we repaired the damage we had fuf-tained in the beft manner we could. On the 8th, being in the latitude of 410 30' S., longitude Wednef< B 260 51' E., the mercury in the thermometer rofe to 61, and we found it neceffary to put on lighter clothes. As the wind continued invariably fixed between N. W. and Weft, we took every advantage to get to the Weft, by tacking whenever it fhiftcd any thing in our favour; but as we had a great fwell againft us, our tacks were rather difadvan-tageous. We daily faw albatroffes, peterels, and other oceanic birds; but not the leafl fign of land. On the nth, in the latitude of 400 40' S., longitude 230 Saturday u. 47' E., the variation was 200 48' W. About noon the fame day the wind fhifting fuddenly from N. W. to S. W,, caufed the mercury in the thermometer to fall as fuddenly from 620 to 520 ; fuch was the different ftate of the air, between a northerly and foutherly wind. The next day, having feve- Sunday 12. ral hours calm, we put a boat in the water, and fhot fome albatroffes and peterels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable.. 1775- acceptable. We were now nearly in the fituation where <_the ifles which we were in fearch of, arc laid to lie ; how- Sundayi*. faw nothing that could give us the leafl hope of finding them. Monday 13, The calm continued till five o'clock of the next morning, when it was fuccceded by a breeze at W. by S., with which we flood to N. N. W., and at noon obferved in latitude 38° 51'S. This was upwards of thirty miles more to the North than our log gave us; and the watch fhewed that we bad been fet to the Eafl alfo. If thefe differences did not arife from fome flrong current, I know not how to account for them. Very flrong currents have been found on the African coafl, between Madagafcar and the Cape of Good Hope, but I never heard of their extending fo far from the land ; nor is it probable they do. I rather fuppofe that this current has no connexion with that on the coafl; and that we happened to fall into fome flream which is neither lafling nor regular. But thefe are points which require much time to invefligate, and mufl therefore be left to the induflry of future navigators. We were now two degrees to the North of the parallel in which the ifles of Denia and Marfeveen are faid to lie. We had feen nothing to encourage us to perfevere in looking after them; and it mufl have taken up fome time longer to find them, or to prove their non-cxiflcnce. Every one was impatient to get into port, and for good reafons; as for a long time we had had nothing but flalc and fait provifions, for which every one on board had loll all relifh. Thefe reafons induced me to yield to the general wifh, and to fleer for the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time in the latitude of 380 38' S., longitude 23° 37' E. The The next day the obferved latitude at noon was only feven- *775- March. teen miles to the North of that given by the log; fo that \- we had either got out of the flrcngth of the current, or it Tuefday H' had ceafed. On the 15th the obferved latitude at noon, together with w*dnef. the watch, fhewed that we had had a flrong current fetting to the S. W., the contrary direction to what we had experienced on fome of the preceding days, as hath been mentioned. At day-light, on the 16th, we faw two fail in the N. W. Thurfday 16. quarter Handing to the weftward, and one of them mewing Dutch colours. At ten o'clock, we tacked and flood to the Weft alfo, being at this time in the latitude of 350 9' S., longitude 220 38' E. I now, in purfuance of my inftructions, demanded of the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they had kept; which were delivered to me accordingly, and fealed up for the infpection of the Admiralty. I alfo enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where we had been, till they had their Lordfhips permiffion fo to do. In the afternoon, the wind veered to the Weft, and increafed to a hard gale, which was of fhort duration; for, the next Friday.7. day, it fell, and at noon veered to S. E. At this time we were in the latitude of 340 49' S,, longitude 220 E.; and, on founding, 'found fifty-fix fathoms water. In the evening wc faw the land in the direction of E. N. E., about fix leagues diftant; and, during the fore-part of the night, there was a great fire or light upon it. At day-break on the i8th, we faw the land again, bearing Saturday 18, N. N. W., fix or feven leagues diftant, and the depth of water 1775- March. Saturday 18, Sunday 19. ter forty-eight fathoms. At nine o'clock, having little or no wind, we hoifled out a boat and fent on board one of the two fliips before mentioned, which were about two leagues from us; but we were too impatient after news to regard the diftance. Soon after, a breeze fprung up at Weft, with which we flood to the South ; and, prefently, three fail more appeared in fight to windward, one of which fhewed Englifh colours. At one P. M., the boat returned from on board the Bown-kerke Polder, Captain Cornelius Bofch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bofch, very obligingly, offered us fugar, arrack, and whatever he had to fpare. Our people were told by fome Englifh feamcn on board this fhip, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the people of New Zealand; fo that the ftory which we heard in Queen Charlotte's Sound was now no longer a myftcry. We had light airs next to a calm till ten o'clock the next morning, when a breeze fprung up at Weft, and the Englifh fhip, which was to windward, bore down to us. She proved to be the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China. As he did not intend to touch at the Cape, I put a letter on board him for the Secretary of the Admiralty. The account which we had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed to us by this fhip. We alfo got, from on board her, a parcel of old news-papers, which were new to us, and gave us fome amufement; but thefe were the lcaft favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a gene-rofity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's 4 fliips, fliips, he fent us frefli provifions, tea, and other articles, 1775- r r _ . . March. which were very acceptable; and deferve from me this 1-,—^ public acknowledgment. In the afternoon we parted com- Sundayi9> pany. The True Briton flood out to fea, and we in for the land; having a very frefh gale at Well, which fplit our fore-top fail in fuch a manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the yard. At fix o'clock, we tacked within four or five miles of the fhore; and, as we judged, about five or fix leagues to the Eaft of Cape Aguilas. We flood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round to the Monday 20. South, we tacked, and flood along-fliore to the Wefl. The wind kept veering more and more in our favour, and at lad fixed at E. S. E., and blew, for fome hours, a perfect hurricane. As foon as the florm began to fubflde we made fail, and hauled in for the land. Next day at noon, the Table Moun- Tuefday 21. tain over the Cape Town bore N. E. by E., diflant nine or ten leagues. By making ufe of this bearing and diftance to reduce the longitude fhewn by the watch to the Cape Town, the error was found to be no more than 18' in longitude, which it was too far to the Eaft. Indeed, the difference we found between it and the lunar obfervations, fince we left New Zealand, had feldom exceeded half a degree, and always the fame way. The next morning, being with us Wednefday the 22d, but Wt(jncr, 22; with the people here Tuefday the 21ft, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found feveral Dutch fliips ; fome French; and the Ceres,. Captain Newte, an Englifh Eaft India Company's fhip, from China, bound directly to England, by whom I fent a copy of the preceding parts of this journal, fome charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty. Vol. II. Kk Before A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, mi. Before we had well got to an anchor, I difpatched an March. ^ . r <-„-1 ofticer to acquaint the Governor with our arrival, and to ene'22, requeft the neceflary ftores and refrefhments; which were readily granted. As foon as the officer came back, we faluted the garrifon with thirteen guns, which compliment was immediately returned with an equal number. I now learnt that the Adventure had called here, on her return; and I found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting me with the lofs of his boat, and of ten of his beft men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The Captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my hands a complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our fecond and final feparation, which I now lay before the Public in the following Chapter. CHAP. CHAP. VIII. Captain Furneauxs Narrative of his Proceedings, in the Advtnture, from the time he was feparated from the Refolution, to his Arrival in England", including Lieutenant Burneys Report concerning the Boat's Crew, who were murdered by the Inhabitants of £{ueen Charlotte s Sound. AFTER a paffage of fourteen days from Amflerdam, J773^ we made the coaft of New Zealand near the Table u—v—J Cape, and ftood along-fhore till we came as far as Cape Turnagain. The wind then began to blow ftrong at Weft, with heavy fqualls and rain, which fplit many of our fails, and blew us off the coaft for three days; in which time we parted company with the Refolution, and never faw her afterwards. On the 4th of November, wc again got in more, near November. Cape Pallifer, and were vifitcd by a number of the natives ThurfdaM-in their canoes, bringing a great quantity of cray-fifh, which we bought of them for nails and Otaheitc cloth. The Friday s. next day it blew hard from W. N. W., which again drove us off the coaft, and obliged us to bring to for two days; during which time it blew one continual gale of wind, with heavy falls of fleet. By this time, our decks were very leaky; our beds and bedding wet; and feveral of our people complaining of colds; fo that we began to defpair of ever getting into Charlotte Sound, or joining the Refolution. K k 2 On 1773- On the 6th, being to the North of the Cape, the wind at v S.W'i and blowing flrong, we bore away for fome bay to Saturday compiete our water and wood, being in great want of both ; having been at the allowance of one quart of water for fome days pafl; and even that pittance could not be come at, above fix or feven days longer. We anchored in Toiaga Bay on the Tuefday 9. 9th, in latitude 38° it' S., longitude 17B0 37' Eafl. It affords good riding with the wind wefterly, and regular foundings from eleven to five fathoms, ftiff muddy ground acrofs the bay for about two miles. It is open from N. N. E. to E. S. E. It is to be obferved, eaftcrly winds feldom blow hard on this fhore ; but when they do, they throw in a great fea j fo that if it were not for a great undertow, together with a large river that empties itfelf in the bottom of the bay, a fhip would not be able to ride here. Wood and water are eafily to be had, except when it blows hard eaftcrly. The natives here are the fame as thofe at Charlotte Sound, but more numerous, and feemed fettled, having regular plantations of fweec potatoes, and other roots, which are very good and they have plenty of cray and other fifh, which we bought of them for nails, beads, and other trifles, at an eafy rate. In one of their canoes we obferved the head of a woman lying in fete* adorned with feathers and other ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive; but, on examination, we found it dry, being preferved with every feature perfect, and kept as the relic of fome deceafed relation. Having got about ten tons of water, and fome wood, we Friday 12. failed for Charlotte Sound on the 12th. We were no fooner out than the wind began to blow hard, dead on the more, fo that we could not clear the land on either tack. This obliged us to bear away again for the bay, where we anchored the next next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of wind at E. Nolv773- by S., which threw in a very great fea. We now began to *-;—i fear we fhould never join the Refolution; having reafon to y l3" believe fhe was in Charlotte Sound, and by this time ready for fea. We foon found it was with great difficulty we could get any water, owing to the fwell fetting in fo flrong; at laft, however, we were able to go on fhore, and got both-wood and water. Whilfl we lay here, we were employed about the rigging, which was much damaged by the conflant gales of wind we had met with fmce we made the coafl. We got the booms down on the decks, and having made the fhip as fnug as poflible, failed again on the 16th. After this we met with Tuefday 16. feveral gales of wind off the mouth of the Strait; and continued beating backwards and forwards till the 30th, when Tuefday 3* we were fo fortunate as to get a favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at laft got fafe into our defired port. We faw nothing of the Refolution, and began to doubt her fafety; but on going afhore, we difcerned the place where fhe had erected her tents; and, on an old flump of a tree in the garden, obferved thefe words cut out 11 Look underneath." There we dug, and foon found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, fignify-ing their arrival on the 3d inftant, and departure on the 24th; and that they intended fpending a few days in the entrance of the Straits to look for us. We immediately fet about getting the fhip ready for fea as faft as poflible ; erected our tents; fent the cooper on fhore to repair the cafks; and began to unftow the hold, to get at the bread that was in butts; but on opening them found a great quantity of it entirely fpoiled, and mofl part fo damaged that: 1773* that we were obliged to fix our copper oven on more to bake u—it over again, which undoubtedly delayed us a confiderable time. Whilft we lay here, the inhabitants came on board as before, fupplying us with fifth, and other things of their own manufacture, which we bought of them for nails, &c. and appeared very friendly; though twice in the middle of the night, they came to the tent, with an intention to ileal, but were difcovered before they could get any thing into their poffefnon. Friday 17. °n ttie '7m °f December, having refitted the fhip, com-pleated our water and wood, and got every thing ready for fea, we fent our large cutter, with Mr. Rowe, a midfhipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens for the fhip's company; with orders to return that evening, as I intended to fail the next morning. But, on the boat's not returning the fame evening, nor the next morning, being under great un-eafinefs about her, I hoifled out the launch, and fent her, with the fecond lieutenant, Mr. Burney, manned with the Saturday 18. boat's crew and ten marines, in fearch of her. My orders to Mr. Burney were, firfl to look well into Eaft Bay, and then to proceed to Grafs Cove, the place to which Mr. Rowe had been fent; and if he heard nothing of the boat there, to go farther tip the Sound, and come back along the Weft Ihorc. As Mr. Rowe had left the fhip an hour before the time propofed, and in a great hurry, I was ftrongly perfuaded that his curiofity had carried him into Eaft Bay, none in our fhip having ever been there ; or elfe, that fome accident had happened to the boat, either by going a-drift through the boat-keeper's negligence, or by being ftove among the rocks. This was al-moft every body's opinion ; and on this fuppofition, the carpenter's mate was fent in the launch, with fome fhects of tin. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 255 *in. I had not the leafl fufpicion that our people had received 1773- 1 * A December. any injury from the natives; our boats having frequently «—rv—' been higher up, and worfe provided. How much I was atr miftaken, too foon appeared ; for Mr. Burney having returned about eleven o'clock the fame night, made his report of a horrible fcene indeed, which cannot be better defcribed than in his own words, which now follow. " On the 18th, we left the fhip-, and having a light breeze Saturday is. in our favour, we foon got round Long Ifland, and within Long Point, I examined every cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around with a fpy-glafs, which I took for that purpofe. At half-paft one, we flopped at a beach on the left hand fide going up Eafl Bay, to boil fome victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilft we were cooking, I faw an Indian on the oppofitc fhore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being dreft, we got into the boat and put off ; and, in a fhort time arrived at the head of this reach, where we faw an Indian fettlement. " As we drew near, fome of the Indians came down on the rocks, and waved for us to be gone; but feeing wc disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found fix large canoes hauled up on the beach, mofl of them double ones, and a great many people ; though not fo many as one might expect from the number of houfes and fize of the canoes. Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, I ftepped a-fhore with the marines (the corporal and five men), and fearched a good many of their houfes; but found nothing to give me any fufpicion. Three or four well-beaten paths led farther into the woods, where were many more houfes j but the people continuing friendly, I thought it unneceffary to D'77£ to continue our fearch. Coming down to the beach, one of *-„—j the Indians had brought a bundle of Hepatoos (long fpears), Saturday j8. feemg j looked very earnellly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with feeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glafs to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guefs, N. N. W. a good mile, where it ended in a long fandy beach. I looked all round with the glafs, but faw no boat, canoe, or fign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myfelf with firing fome guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. " I now kept clofe to the Eafl fhore, and came to another fet-tlement, where the Indians invited us afhore. I enquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and fold us fome fifh. Within an hour after we left this place, in a fmall beach adjoining to Grafs Cove, we faw a very large double canoe jufl hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, on feeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reafon to fufpecT I fhould here get tidings of the cutter. We went afhore, and fearched the canoe, where we found one of the rullock-ports of the cutter, and fome fhocs, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhoufe, one of our midfhipmen. One of the people, at the fame time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be fome of the fait meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and fmelling to it, I found it was frefli. Mr. Fannin (the mafler) who was with me, fuppofed it was dog's-flefh, and I was of the fame opinion; for I flill doubted their being cannibals. But we were foon convinced by mofl horrid and undeniable proof. t( A great lt A great many bafkets (about twenty) lying on the beach ^773-tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roafled flefh, —v—j and fome of fern-root, which ferves them for bread. On farther fearch, we found more fhoes, and a hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecaftle-men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow-inflrument. I went with fome of the people, a little way up the woods, but faw nothing elfe. Coming down again, there was a round fpot covered with frefli earth about four feet diameter, where fomething had been buried. Having no fpade, we began to dig with a cutlafs ; and in the mean time I launched the canoe with intent to deffroy her; but feeing a great fmoke afcending over the nearefl hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what hafle I could to be with them before fun-fet. " On opening the next bay, which was Grafs Cove, we faw four canoes, one fingle and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a fmall hill, within a fhip's length of the water-fide, where they flood talking to us. A large fire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As wc came in, I ordered a mufquetoon to be fired at one of the canoes, fufpeeting they might be full of men lying down in the bottom; for they were all "afloat, but nobody was feen in them. The ravages on the little hill, ftill kept hallooing and making figns for us to land. However, as foon as we got clofe in, we all fired. The firfl volley did not feem to affect them much ; but on the fecond, they began to fcram-ble away as fafl as they could, fome of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could fee the glimpfe of any of them through the bufhes. Amongfl the Indians were Vol.11. LI two 1773- two very Rout men, who never offered to move till they «_cc-"-cr'* found themfelves forfaken by their companions; and then Saturday 18. ^Cy marched away with great compofure and deliberation ; their pride not fullering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on all fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landcdwith the marines, and Mr. Fannin flayed to guard the boat. " On the beach were two bundles of cellery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was fluck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then fcarched all along at the back of the beach, to fee if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but in Mead of her, fuch a ihocking fcene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of feveral of our people were feen lying on the beach, and, at a little diflance, the dogs gnawing their intrails. 11 Whilft we remained almofl ftupified on the fpot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the favages gathering together in the woods; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling along-fide the canoes, wc demolifhcd three of them. Whilft this was tranfacting, the fire on the top of the hill difappeared j and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words; I fuppofe quarrelling whether or no they fhould attack us, and try to fave their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore jufl ftepped out, and looked once more behind the beach to fee if the cutter had been hauled up in the bufhes ; but feeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely fufheient to have gone up the hill. and to have ventured with half (for half muft have been left to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardinefs. 2 « As AND ROUND THE WORLD, 259 " As wc opened the upper part of the found, we faw a very *773- rirt - December. large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed ■-.-r a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almofl a ur ny l8, to the water-fide, the middle fpace being inclofed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I confultcd with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing fome more of the ravages. At leaving Grafs Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking; but, by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces miffed fire. What was flill worfc, it began to rain ; our ammunition was more than half expended; and wc left fix large canoes behind us in one place. With fo many difadvantages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. " Coming between two round iflands, fituated to the fouth-ward of Eafl Bay, we imagined we heard fomebody calling; we lay on our oars, and liflened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed feveral times, but to little purpofe; the poor fouls were far enough out of hearing; and indeed, I think it fome comfort to reflect, that in all probability every man of them mufl have been killed on the fpot." Thus far Mr. Burney's report; and, to complete the account of this tragical transaction, it may not be unneceffary to mention that the people in the cutter were Mr. Rowe; Mr. Woodhoufe ; Francis Murphy, quarter-maflcr ; William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, fbre-caftle-men. John Cavenaugh, and Thomas Milton, belonging to the after-guard; and James Sevilley, the captain's man, being ten in all. Mofl of thefe were of our very L 1 2 befl r 773* beft feamen, the flouted: and mofl healthy people in the fhip. December. J r 1 » i-„-* Mr. Burney's party brought on board two hands, one belong- .aturday 18. tQ ^ Rowe, known by a hurt he had received on it; the other to Thomas Hill, as before-mentioned; and the head of the captain's fervant. Thefe, with more of the remains, were tied in a hammock, and thrown over-board, with ballaft and fhot fufheient to fink it. None of their arms nor cloaths were found, except part of a pair of trow-fers, a frock, and fix fhoes, no two of them being fellows. I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of thefe favages; for, the morning Mr, Rowe left the fhip, he met two canoes, which came down and flayed all the forenoon in Ship Cove. It might probably happen from fome quarrel which was decided on the fpot; or the fairnefs of the opportunity might tempt them, our people being fo incautious, and thinking themfclves too fecure. Another thing which encouraged the New Zealanders, was, they were fen-liblc that a gun was not infallible, that they fometimes miffed, and that, when difcharged, they mufl be loaded before they could be ufed again, which time they knew how to take advantage of. After their fuccefs, I imagine there was a general meeting on the Eafl fide of the Sound. The Indians of Shag Cove were there; this we knew by a cock which was in one of the canoes, and by a long fingle canoe, which fome of our people had feen four days before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr. Rowe in the cutter. We were detained in the Sound by contrary winds four days after this melancholy affair happened, during which time we faw none of the inhabitants. What is very remarkable, markablc, I bad been feveral times up in the fame Cove De£J73^ with Captain Cook, and never faw the leafl fign of an inha- u—v—-> 1 j *r Saturday iS- bitant, except fome deferred towns, which appeared as it they had not been occupied for feveral years j and yet, when Mr. Burney entered the Cove, he was of opinion there could not be lefs than fifteen hundred or two thoufand people. I doubt not, had they been apprized of his coming, they would have attacked him. From thefe confiderations, I thought it imprudent to fend a boat up again ; as we were convinced there was not the leafl probability of any of our people being alive. On the 23d, we weighed and made fail out of the Sound, Thurfday and flood to the eaflward to get clear of the Straits; which we accomplifhcd the fame evening, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds, before we could clear the coafl. We then flood to the S. S. E. till we got into the latitude of 56° South, without any thing remarkable happening, having a great fwell from the fouthward. At this time the winds began to blow flrong from the S. W., and the weather to be very cold ; and as the fhip was low and deep laden, the fea made a continual breach over her, which kept us always wet; and by her flraining, very few of the people were dry in bed or on deck, having no fhclter to keep the fea from them. The birds were the only companions we had in this vafl ocean; except, now and then, we faw a whale or porpoife *, and fometimes a feal or two, and a few penguins. In the latitude of 580 S., longitude 2130 * Eaft, we fell in with fome * About 147 Wefl: longitude, as I reckon. ice > Tr774« ice; and, every day, faw more or lefs, we then Handing January. ° —to the Eaft. We found a very ftrong current fetting to the eaftward; for by the time we were abreaft of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 6:° S, the fhip was ahead of our account eight degrees. We were very little more than a month from Cape Pallifer in New Zealand to Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and had continual wefterly winds from S. W. to N. W., with a great fea following. On opening fome calks of pcafe and flour, that had been Rowed on the coals, we found them very much damaged, and not eatable; fo thought it moft prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope, but firfl to ftand into the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcifion. After being to the eaftward of Cape Horn, we found the winds did not blow fo ftrong from the weflward as ufual, but came more from the North, which brought on thick foggy weather; fo that for feveral days together we could not be able to get at obfervation, or fee the leafl fign of the fun. This weather laftcd above a month, being then among a great many iflands of ice, which kept us conftantly on the look-out, for fear of running foul of them, and, being a fingle fhip, made us more attentive. By this time our people began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, which obliged me to haul to the northward to the latitude of 540 S.j but we flill continued to have the fame fort of weather, though we had oftencr an opportunity of obtaining obfervations for the latitude. After getting into the latitude above-mentioned, 1 fleered to the Eaft, in order, if poflible, to find the land laid down by by Bouvet. As we advanced to the Eaft, the iflands of ice became more numerous and dangerous; they being much fmaller than they ufed to be; and the nights began to be dark. On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 540 4/ S. Marchs longitude 130 E., which is the latitude of Bouvct's difcovery, and half a degree to the eaftward of it, and not feeing the leaft fign of land, cither now or fince we have been in this parallel, I gave over looking for it, and hauled away to the northward. As our laft track to the fouthward was within a few degrees of Bouvet's difcovery, in the longitude afligned to it, and about three or four degrees to the fouthward, fliould there be any land thereabout, it muft be a very inconfiderable ifland. But I believe it was nothing but ice; as we, in our firfl letting out, thought we had feen land" feveral times, but it proved to be high iflands of ice at the back of the large fields; and as it was thick foggy weather when Mr. Bouvet fell in with it, he might very cafdy miftake them for land. On the 7th, being in the latitude of 480 30' S., longitude 14° 26' E., faw two large iflands of ice. On the 17th, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th anchored in Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majefty's fhips Salifbury and Sca-horfe. I faluted the Commodore with thirteen guns; and, foon after, the garrifon with the fame number; the former returned the falute, as ufual, with two guns lefs, and the latter with an equal number. Vol. IL L1 4 °^ T774» February. ^774- On the 24th, Sir Edward Hughes failed with the Salifbury —v-L-j and Sea-horfe for the Eaft Indies ; but I remained refitting April 16. the fhip and refrefhing my people till the 16th of April, July 14. wrien I failed for England, and on the 14th of July anchored at Spithead. Wednef. 22. CHAP. IX. TranfaElions at the Cape of Good Hope • with an Account of fome Difcoveries made by the French ; and the Ar-rival of the Ship at St. Helena. M775- T NOW refume my own Journal, which Captain Fur- —s-' JL ncaux's intcrcfting Narrative, in the preceding chapter, had obliged me to fufpend. The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on fhore, and waited on the Governor Baron Pletten-berg, and other principal officers, who received, and treated us, with the greatefl politenefs, contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there are few people more obliging to flrangcrs than the Dutch, in general, at this place, and refrefhments of all kinds are no where to be got in fuch abundance, we enjoyed fome real repofe, after the fatigues of a long voyage. . The good treatment which ftrangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, and the neceffity of breathing a little frelh air, has introduced a cuftom, not common any f where where elfe (at leafl I have nowhere feen it fo ftriexly ob- '775* . ' March. ferved), which is, for all the officers, who can be fpared out 1—v—r of the fliips, to refide on fhore. We followed this cuflom. Myfelf, the two Mr. Forflcrs, and Mr. Spearman, took up our abode with Mr. Brandt; a gentleman well known to the Englifh by his obliging readinefs to ferve them. My firfl care, after my arrival, was to procure frefh baked bread, frefli meat, greens, and wine, for thofe who remained on board;- and being provided, every day during our flay, with thefe articles, they were foon reflorcd to their ufual flrength. We had only three men on board whom it was thought neceffary to fend on fhore for the recovery of their health ; and for thefe 1 procured quarters, at the rate of thirty flivers, or half a crown, per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging. We now went to work to fupply all our defects. For this purpofe, by permiffion, we creeled a tent on fhore, to which we fent our cafks and fails to be repaired. We alfo flruck the yards and topmafts, in order to overhaul the rigging, which we found in fo bad a condition, that almofl every thing, except the Handing rigging, was obliged to be replaced with new; and that was purchafed at a moft exorbitant price. In the article of naval (lores, the Dutch, here, as well as at Batavia, take a fhamcful advantage of the dif-trefs of foreigners. That our rigging, flails, &c. fhould be worn out, will not be wondered at, when it is known, that, during this circumnavigation of the globe, that is, from our leaving this place to our return to it again, we had failed no lefs than twenty thoufand leagues; an extent of voyage, nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and Vol. II. M m which, i775« which, I apprehend, was never failed by any fhip in the fame March. - r • 1 r * t_ • '-4-» fpace of time before. And yet, in all this great run, which had been made in all latitudes between 90 and 71°, we fprung neither low-mafts, top-maft, lower nor top-fail yard, nor fo much as broke a lower or top-maft fliroud; which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, muft be owing to the good properties of our fhip. One of the French fhips which were at anchor in the bay, was the Ajax Indiaman, bound to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been fecond in command with Captain Morion, who failed from this place with two fliips, in March 1772, as hath been already mentioned. Inftead of going from hence to America, as was faid, he ftood away for New Zealand; where, in the Bay of Ifles, he and fome of his people were killed by the inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who fuccccded to the command, returned, by the way of the Phil-lipine Ifles, with the two fliips, to the Ifland of Mauritius* He feemed to be a man poffeffed of the true fpirit of difcovery, and to haye abilities. In a very obliging manner he communicated to me a chart wherein were delineated not only his own difcoveries, but alfo that of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down in the very fituation where we fearched for it; fo that I can, by no means, conceive how both we and the Adventure miffed it. Befides this land, which Captain Crozet told us was a long but very narrow ifland, extending Eaft and Weft, Captain Morion, in about the latitude of 480 South, and from 160 to 300 of longitude Eaft of the Cape of Good Flope, difcovered fix iflands which were high and barren. Thefe, together with fome iflands lying between the line and the fouthern tropic in the Pacific Ocean, were the principal difcoveries 7 made made in this voyage, the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication. By Captain Crozet's chart it appeared, that a voyage had been made by the French acrofs the South Pacific Ocean in j 769, under the command of one Captain Surville; who, on condition of his attempting difcoveries, had obtained leave to make a trading voyage to the coafl of Peru. He fitted out, and took in a cargo, in fome part of the Eafl Indies; proceeded by way of the Phillipine Ifles ; paffed near New Britain; and difcovered fome land in the latitude of io° S., longitude 158° Eafl, to which he gave his own name. From hence he fleered to the South; paffed, but a few degrees, to the Weil of New Caledonia; fell in with New Zealand at its northern extremity, and put into Doubtful Bay, where, it feems, he was, when I pafled it, on my former voyage in the Endeavour. From New Zealand Captain Surville fleered to the Eafl, between the latitude of 350 and 410 South, until he arrived on the coafl of America; where, in the Port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned. Thefe voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, have contributed fomething towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of Captain Surville clears up a miflake which I was led into, in imagining the fhoals off the wefl end of New Caledonia, to extend to the Wefl as far as New Holland. It proves that there is an open fea in that fpace, and that we faw the N. W. extremity of that country. From the fame gentleman we learnt, that the fhip which had been at Otaheite before our firfl arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain ; and that, in her return, fhe had M m 2 difcovered I775» difcovered fome iflands in the latitude of -22° S., and under u—»_r the meridian of 1300 W. Some other iflands, faid to be difcovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart; but Captain Crozet feemed to think they were inferted from no good authorities. We were likewife informed of a later voyage undertaken • by the French, under the command of Captain Kcrguelcn, which had ended much to the difgrace of that commander. While we lay in Table Bay, feveral foreign fliips put in and out, bound to and from India, viz. Englifh, French, Danes, Swedes, and three Spanifli frigates, two of them going to, and one coming from Manilla. It is but very lately that the Spanifli fhips have touched here; and thefe were the firfl that were allowed the fame privileges as other European friendly nations. On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loofe, and we were obliged to unhang it, and take it on fhore to repair. We were alfo delayed for want of caulkers to caulk the fhip, which was abfolutcly neceffary to be done before we put to fea. At length I obtained two workmen from one of the Dutch fliips; and the Dutton Englifh Eafl Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged me Aprit. vvith two more ; fo that by the 26th of April this work was »Vtdtief. 26. , i n rr n i finiihed; and having got on ooard all neceflary ftores, and a frefh fupply of provifions and water, we took leave of the rhurWay 27. Governor and other principal officerSj and the next morning repaired on board. Soon after, the wind coming fair, we weighed and put to fea; as did alfo the Spanifli frigate Juno, from Manilla, a Danifh Indiaman, and the Dutton. As As foon as we were under fail, we falutcd the garrifon W|. with thirteen guns; which compliment was immediately t— *■ Thurfday returned with the fame number. The Spanifli frigate and Danifh Indiaman both falutcd us as we- paifed them, and I returned each falute with an equal number of guns. When we were clear of the bay the Banifh fhip fleered for the Eafl Indies, the Spanifh frigate for Europe, and we and the Dutton for St. Helena. Depending on the goodnefs of Mr. Kendall's watch, I re-folved to try to make the ifland by a direct courfe. For the firfl fix days, that is till we got into the latitude of 270 S., longitude 111° Wefl of the Cape, the winds were foutherly and S. E. After this we had variable light airs for two days; they were fucceeded by a wind at S. E. which continued to the ifland, except a part of one day, when it was at N. E. In general the wind blew faint all the paffage, which made it longer than common. At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May, we faw the ifland of St. Helena at the diftance of fourteen leagues ; and at midnight, anchored in the road before the town, on the N. W. fide of the ifland. At fun-rife the next morning, the caftle, and alfo the Dutton, falutcd us, each with thirteen guns; on my landing, foon after, I was faluted by the caftle with the fame number; and each of the falutes was returned by the fhip. Governor Skettowe, and the principal gentlemen of the ifland, received and treated me, during my flay, with the greatefl politenefs j by fhewing me every kind of civility in their power. Whoever »775- Whoever views St. Helena in its prefent Rate, and can but May. . . —-' conceive what it muft have been originally, will not haftily cfday l6' charge the inhabitants with want of induftry. Though, perhaps, they might apply it to more advantage, were more land appropriated to planting of corn, vegetables, roots, &c. inftead of being laid out in pafture, which is the prefent mode. But this is not likely to happen, fo long as the greatefl part of it remains in the hands of the Company and their fervants. Without induftrious planters, this iiland can never flourifh, and be in a condition to fupply the fhipping with the necelTary refreshments. Within thefe three years a new church has been built; fome other new buildings were in hand; a commodious landing place for boats has been made; and feveral other improvements, which add both ftrength and beauty to the place. During our flay here, we finifhed fome neceffary repairs of the fhip, which we had not time to do at the Cape. We alfo filled all our empty water-calks; and the crew were ferved with frefli beef, purchafed at five-pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only refrefhment to be had worth mentioning. By aferies of obfervations made at the Cape Town, and at James Fort in St. Helena, at the former by Meffrs. Mafon and Dixon, and at the latter by Mr. Mafkelyne, the prefent aftro-nomer royal, the difference of longitude between thefe two places is 240 12' 15", only two miles more than Mr. Kendall's Watch made. The lunar obfervations made by Mr. Wales, before we arrived at the ifland, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch, gave 50 51' for the longitude of James James Fort; which is only five miles more Well than it is J77S* placed by Mr. Mafkelyne. In like manner the longitude ^T^^ of the Cape Town was found within $' of the truth. I mention this to fhew how near the longitude of places may be found by the lunar method, even at fea, with the affift-ance of a good watch. C FI A P. CHAP. X. Paffage from St. Helena to the Weflern Iflands, with a Defcription of the Ifland of Afcenfion and Fernando Noronha* ON the 2 ill in the evening, I took leave of the Governor, and repaired on board. Upon my leaving the fhore, ^tef^f I was falutcd with thirteen guns; and upon my getting under fail, with the Dutton in company, I was faluted with thirteen more; both of which I returned. After leaving St. Helena the Dutton was ordered to fleer N. W. by W. or N. W. by compafs, in order to avoid falling in with Afcenfion; at which iiland, it was faid, an illicit trade was carried Qn between the officers of the India Company's fhips, and fome veffels from North America, who, of late years, had frequented the ifland on pretence of fifhing whales or catching turtle, when their real defign was to wait the coming of the India fliips. In order to prevent their homeward bound fhip from falling in with thefe fmugglers, and to put a flop to this illicit trade, the Dutton was ordered to fleer the courfe above-mentioned, till to the northward of Afcenfion. I kept company with this fhip till the 24th, when, after putting a packet on board her for the Admiralty, we parted; fhe continuing her courfe to the N. W, and I fleering for Afcenfion. Sunday 28. In the morning of the 28th I made the ifland; and the fame evening, anchored in Crofs Bay on the N. W. fide, in •f ten ten fathoms water, the bottom a fine fand, and half a mile 1775-from the fhore. The Crofs Hill, fo called on account of a ■ , 7\ ^ crofs, or flag-flaff erected upon it, bore by compafs S. 380 Eafl; SanJay 28* and the two extreme points of the Bay extended from N. E. to S. W. We remained here till the evening of the 3 iff, and Wednef.$u notwithstanding we had feveral parties out every night, we got but twenty-four turtle, it being rather too late in the feafon ; however, as they weighed between four or five hundred pounds each, we thought ourfelves not ill off. We might have had a plentiful fupply of fifh in general; efpecially of that fort called Old Wives, I have no where feen fuch abundance ; there were alfo cavalies, congor eels, and various other forts; but the catching of any of thefe was not attended to, the object: being turtle. There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, fuch as men of war and tropic birds, boobies, &c. The ifland of Afcenfion is about ten miles in length, in the direction of N. W. and S. E., and about five or fix in breadth. It fhews a furface compofed of barren hills and vallies, on the moft of which not a fhrub or plant is to be feen for feveral miles, and where we found nothing but Rones and fand, or rather flags and allies; an indubitable fign that the ifle, at fome remote time, has beendeftroyed by a volcano, which has thrown up vafl heaps of ftoncs, and even hills. Between thefe heaps of flones we found a fmooth even furface, compofed of allies and fand, and very good travelling upon it; but one may as eafily walk over broken glafs bottles as over the flones. If the foot deceives you, you are fure to be cut or lamed, which happened to fome of our people. A high mountain at the S. E. end of the ifle, feems to be left in its original Rate, and to have Vol. II. N n efcaped ^775' efcaped the general deftruction. Its foil is a kind of white |-marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and pro- duceth a kind or purflain, fpurg, and one or two grafles. On thefe the goats fubfift, and it is at this part of the ifle where they are to be found, as alfo land-crabs, which are laid to be very good. I Was told, that about this part of the ifle is fome very good land on which might beraifed many neceflary articles; and fome have been at the trouble of laving turnips and other ufeful vegetables. I was alfo told there is a fine fpring in a valley which disjoins two hills on the top of the mountain above-mentioned ; befides great quantities of frefh water in holes in the rocks, which the perfon who gave me this information, believed was collected from rains. But thefe fupplies of water can only be of ufe to the traveller; or to thofe who may be fo unfortunate as to be fhip-wrecked on the ifland; which feems to have been the fate of fome not long ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck we found on the N. E. fide. By what we could judge, fhe feemed to have been a veffel of about one hundred and fifty tons burthen. While we lay in the road, a floop of about feventy tons burthen came to an anchor by us. She belonged to New York, which place fhe left in February, and havirig been to the Coafl of Guinea with a cargo of goods, was come here to take in turtle to carry toBarbadocs. This was the flory which the mailer, whofe name was Greves, was picafed to tell, and which may, in part, be true. But I believe the chief.view of his coming here, was the expectation of meeting with fome ©f the India fliips. He had been in the ifland near a week, and had got on board twenty turtle. A floop, belonging to Ber- Bermuda, had failed but a few days before with one hundred 1775-and five on board, which was as many as fhe could take in j • * Wednef. 21 but having turned feveral more on the different fandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left the carcaffes to putrify; an ad as inhuman as injurious to thofe who came after them. Part of the account 1 have given of the interior parts of this ifland I received from Captain Greves, who feemed to be a fenfible intelligent man, and had been all over it. He failed in the morning of the fame day we did. Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this ifle from January to June. The method of catching them is to have people upon the feveral fandy bays, to watch their coming on fhore to lay their eggs, which » always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till there be an opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to fend a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtle were afhore, and then rife and turn them at once. This method may be the heft when the turtle are numerous; but when there are but few, three or four men are fufficicnt for the largefl beach; and if they keep patroling it, clofe to the warn of the furf, during the night, by this method they will fee all that come a-fhore, and caufe lefs noife than if there were more of them. It was by this method we caught the mofl wc got; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about this ifland, come here for the fole purpofe of laying their eggs; for we meet with none but females ; and of all thofe which we caught, not one had any food worth mentioning in its flomach; a fu/e fign, in my opinion, that they mufl have been a long time without N n 2 any 1775* any ; and this may be the reafon why the flefh of them is not *_Zi^j fo good as fome I have eat on the Coaft of New South Wales, Wednef. 31. which were caught on the fpot where they fed. The watch made 8° 45' difference of longitude between St. Helena and Afcenfion; which, added to 50 49', the longitude of James Fort in St. Flelena, gives 140 34' for the longitude of the Road of Afcenfion, or 140 30' for the middle of the ifland, the latitude of which is 8° S. The lunar obfervations made by Mr. Wales, and reduced to the fame point of the Ifland by the watch, gave 140 28' 30" Weft longitude. On the 31ft of May, we left Afcenfion and fleered to the northward with a fine gale at S. E. by E. I had a great de-fire to vifit the Ifland of St. Matthew, to fettle its fituation; but as I found the winds would not let me fetch it, I fleered for the Ifland of Fernando de Noronho on the coaft of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not find this had yet been done. Perhaps I fhould have performed a more acceptable fervice to navigation, if I had gone in fearch of the Ifland of St. Paul, and thofe fhoals which are faid to lie near the equator, and about the meridian of 200 Weft; as neither their fituation nor exiftence are well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the paffage in fearching for what I was not fure to find ; nor was I willing to give up every object, which might tend to the improvement of navigation or geography, for the fake of getting home a week or a fortnight fooner. It is but feldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they do, they are too often neglected. In our paffage to Fernando de. Noronho, we had flcady frefli gales between the S. E. and E. S. E., attended with fair and clear weather; and as we had the advantage of the moon, a day a day or night did not pafs without making lunar obferva- *775» tions for the determining our longitude. In this run, the va- i_^L--r riation of the compafs gradually decreafed from n° Weft, tu"e-3'-which it was at Afcenfion, to i° Weft, which we found off Fernando de Noronho. This was the mean refult of two compafies, one of which gave i° 37', and the other 23' Weft. On the 9th of June at noon we made the ifland of Fer- J^e. nando de Noronho bearing S. W. by W. ~ W. diftant fix or FnJay 9' feven leagues, as we afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largeft of which looked like a church tower or ftceple. As we drew near the S. E. part of the ifle, we perceived feveral unconnected funken rocks lying near a league from the fhore, on which the fea broke in a great furf. After ftanding very near thefe rocks, we hoifled our colours, and then bore up round the North end of the Ifle, or rather round a group of little iflots ; for we could fee that the land was divided by narrow channels. There is a ftrong fort on the one next the main ifland where there are feveral others; all of which feemed to have every advantage that nature can give them, and they are fo difpofed as wholly to command all the anchoring and landing-places about the ifland. We continued to fleer round the northern point, till the fandy beaches (before which is the road for fhipping) began to appear, and the forts and the peaked hills were open to the weflward of the faid point. At this time, on a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguefe colours were difplayed, and the example was followed by all the other forts. As the purpofe, for which I made the ifland, was now anfwered, I had no intention to anchor ; and therefore, after firing a gun to leeward, we made fail and ftood away to the northward with a fine frefli gale at 7 E. S. E. E. S. E. The peaked hill or church tower bore South, 170 Weft, diftant about four or five miles ; and from this point of view it leans, or over-hangs, to the Eaft. This hill is nearly in the middle of the ifland, which nowhere exceeds two leagues in extent, and thews a hilly unequal furface, moftly covered with wood and herbage. Ulloa fays, " This ifland hath two harbours capable of re-i{ ceiving fliips of the greatefl burden; one is on the North *' fide, and the other on the N. W. The former is, in every " refpect, the principal, both for flielter, and capacity, and ** the goodnefs of its bottom; but both are expofed to the «( North and Weft, though thefe winds, particularly the * North, are periodical, and of no long continuance." He further fays, that you anchor in the North harbour (which is no more than what I would call a road) in thirteen fathoms water, one third of a league from fhore, bottom of fine fand; the peaked hill above mentioned bearing S. W. 30 foutherly *. This road feems to be well fheltercd from the South and Eafl winds. One of my feamen had been on board a Dutch India fhip, who put in at this ifle in her way out, in 1770. They were very fickly, and in want of refrefhments and water. The Portuguefe fupplied them with fome buffaloes and fowls ; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little pool, which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the obferved latitude at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 30 53' South; and its longitude, by the watch, carried on from St. Helena, is 330 34' Weft; and by obfervations of the fun and moon, made before and after we made the ifle, and reduced to it by the watch, 320 44' 30" Weft. This was the mean refult of my obfervations. The * Sec Don Antonio d'Uiloa's Book, Vol. II. Chap. 3J, Page 95, to 102, where there is a very particular account of this iiland. re fults refults of thofe made by Mr. Wales, which were more nu- 1775-merous, gave 320 23'. The mean of the two will be pretty v-i^LL_ near the watch, and probably nearefl the truth. By know- ri *y 9' ing the longitude of this ifle, we are able to determine that of the adjacent eafl coafl of Brazil ; which, according to the modern charts, lies about fixty or feventy leagues more to the Wefl, We might very fafely have trufted to thefe charts, efpecially the Variation Chart for 1744, and Mr. DalrympleV of the Southern Atlantic Ocean f. On the nth, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crofTed Sunday n, the equator in the longitude of 320 14' Wefl. We had frefli gales at E. S. E., blowing in fqualls, attended by fhowers of rain, that continued at certain intervals, till noon the next Monday 13 day, after which wc had twenty-four hours fair weather. At noon on the 13th, being in the latitude of 3? 49' North, TatHi/ ,3 longitude 31° 47'Weft, the wind became variable, between the N. E. and South ; and we had light airs and fqualls by turns, attended by hard fhowers of rain, and for the mofl part dark gloomy weather, which continued till the evening of the 15th, when in the latitude of 50 47' North, longitude Thurfday 1 3i°Wefl, we had three calm days, in which time we did not advance above ten or twelve leagues to the North. We had fair weather and rain by turns; the fky, for the mofl part, being obfeured, and fometimes by heavy denfe clouds which broke in exceifive hard fhowers. At feven o'clock in the evening on the 18th, the calm was Sunday 15. fucceeded by a breeze at Eafl, which, the next day, incrcaf-ing and veering to and fixing at N. E., we flrctched to N. W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt that we had now got the N. E. trade-wind, as it was attended with f Ulloa fay?, that the chart places this iiland fixty leagues from the coaft of Hrazil ; and that the Portugucle pilots, who often make the voyage, judge it to be eighty leagues ; but, by taking the mean between the two opinions, the diftance may be fixed at feventy leagues. fair fair weather, except now and then fome light mowers of rain; and as we advanced to the North the wind increafed, and blew a freifi top-gallant gale. On the 2i ft, I ordered the ftill to be fitted to the Iargeft copper, which, held about fixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four o'clock in the morning, and at fix the ftill began to run. It was continued till fix o'clock in the evening j in which time wTe obtained thirty-two gallons of frefh water, at the expence of one bufhel and a half of coals ; which was about three-fourths of a bufhel more than was neceffary to have boiled the fhip's company's victuals only; but the ex-pence of fuel was no objecl with me. The victuals were drefled in the fmall copper, the other being applied wholly to the ftill; and every method was made ufe of to obtain from it the greatefl quantity of frefh water poflible ; as this was my folc motive for fetting it to work. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was at eighty-four and a half, and higher it is feldom found at fea. Had it been lower, more water, under the fame circumflances, would undoubtedly have been produced; for the colder the air is, the cooler you can keep the ftill, which will condenfe the fleam the fafter. Upon the whole, this is an ufeful invention; but I would advife no man to truft wholly to it. For although you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as much water as will fupport life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain fufficient to fupport health, in hot climates efpecially, where it is the moft wanting; for I am well convinced, that nothing contributes more to the health of feamen, than having plenty of water. The wind now remained invariably fixed at N. E. and E. N. E., and blew frefh with fqualls attended with mowers of rain, rain, and the fky for the mofl part cloudy. On the 25th, in 1775- the latitude of 160 12'North, longitude 37° 20' Weft, feeing a 1- fhip to windward fleering down upon us, we fhortened fail Sun 8y2S' in order to fpeak with her; but finding fhe was Dutch by her colours, we made fail again and left her to purfuc her courfe, which we fuppofed was to fome of the Dutch fettle-ments in the Wefl Indies. In the latitude of 200 North, longitude 390 45' Weft, the wind began to veer to E. by N. and Eafl; but the weather remained the fame ; that is, we continued to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light fqualls and fhowers. Our track was between N. W. by N. and N, N. W., till noon on the 28th, after which our courfe Wednef. 2$. made good was N. by W., being at this time in the latitude of 210 21' North, longitude 400 6' Wefl. Afterwards, the wind began to blow a little more Ready, and was attended with fair and clear weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, being in the latitude of 240 20' North, longi- FriJay 3C< tude 400 47' Wefl, a fhip, fleering to the weflward, pafTed us within hale. We judged her to be Englifh, as they anfwer-ed us in that language; but we could not underftand what they faid, and they were prefently out of fight. In the latitude of 290 30', longitude 410 30', the wind flackcned and veered more to the S. E. We now began to fee fome of that fea-plant, which is commonly called gulph-weed, from a fuppofition that it comes from the Gulph of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to the contrary, it may be a facl:; but it feems not neceffary, as it is certainly a plant which vegetates at fea. We continued to fee it, but always in fmall pieces, till we reached the latitude 36°, longitude 390 Weft, beyond which fituation no more appeared. Vol. II. O o On "775* On the 5th of July, in the latitude of %z° so" North, July. J i—> longitude 400 29' Wefl, the wind veered to the Eafl, and Wednef. 5. ^ew very £amt. the next fay it was calm; the two following days we had variable light airs and calms by turns ; and, Sunday 9. at length, on the gth, having fixed at S. S. W., it increafed to a frefh gale, with which we fleered firft N. E. and then E. N. E., with a view of making fome of the Azores, or Tuefday 11, Weflern Ifles. On the nth, in the latitude of 36°45' North, longitude 36° 45' Weft, we faw a fail which was fleering^ Wednef. i2. to the Weft j and the next day we faw three more. CHAP. CHAP. XI. Arrival of the Ship at the If and of Fayal, a Defcription of the Place, and the Return of the Refolution to England. AT five o'clock in the evening of the 13th, we made the i775« Ifland of Fayal, one of the Azores, and foon after k_2^L that of Pico, under which we fpent the night making fhort ay boards. At day-break the next morning we bore away for the Friday 14. bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where, at eight o'clock, we anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clean fandy bottom, and fomething more than half a mile from the fhore. Here we moored N. E. and S. W., being directed fo to do by the matter of the port, who came on board before we dropped anchor. When moored, the S. W. point of the Bay bore S. 160 W. and the N. E. point N. 330 E.; the Church at the N. E. end of the town N. 380 W.; the Wefl point of St. George's Ifland N. 420 E., diflant eight leagues ; and the Ifle of Pico, extending from N. 740 E. to S. 460 E., diflant four or five miles. We found in the bay, the Pourvoyeur, a large French frigate, an American floop, and a brig belonging to the place. She had come laft from the river Amazon, where fhe took in a cargo of provifion for the Gape Verd Iflands ; but, not being able to find them, fhe fleered for this place, where fhe anchored about half an hour before us. O o 2 As my fole defign in flopping here, was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix, with fome degree of certainty, the longitude of thefe iflands, the moment we anchored, I fent an officer to wait on the Englifh conful, and to notify our arrival to the governor, requefling his permiflion for Mr. Wales to make obfervations on fhore, for the purpofe above mentioned. Mr. Dent, who acted as conful in the abfence of Mr. Gathorne, not only procured this permiflion, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to fet up his inftruments; fo that he was enabled to obferve equal altitudes the fame day. We were not more obliged to Mr. Dent for the very friendly readinefs he fhewed in procuring us this and every other thing we wanted, than for the very liberal and hofpita-ble entertainment we met with at his houfe, which was open to accommodate us both night and day.. During our flay, the fhip's company was ferved with frefh beef; and we took on board about fifteen tons of water which we brought off in the country boats, at the rate of about three millings per ton. Ships are allowed to water with their own boats ; but the many inconveniencies attending it, more than overbalance the expence of hiring fhore-boats, which is the moft general cuftom. Frefli provifions for prefent ufe may be got, fuch as beef,, vegetables, and fruit; and hogs, flieep, and poultry, for fea-" flock, all at a pretty reafonable price; but I do not know that any fea provifions are to be had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the fhecp are fmall and wretchedly poor. The The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, yjs-with which they fupply Pico and fome of the other ifles. The £**gr~~* chief town is called Villa de Horta. It is fituated in the bottom of the bay, clofe to the edge of the fea, and is defended by two caftles, one at each end of the town, and a wall of flone-work, extending along the fea-fhore, from the one to the other. But thefe works are fuffered to go to decay, and fcrve more for fhew than flrength. They heighten the profpect of the city, which makes a fine appearance from the road; but, if we except the Jefuits College, the monafleries and churches, there is not another building that has any thing to recommend it, either outfide or in. There is not a glafs window in the place, except what are in the churches, and in a country-houfe which lately belonged to the Englifh conful; all the others being latticed, which, to an Englifhman, makes them look like prifbns. This little city, like all others belonging to the Portu-guefe, is crowded with religious buildings; there being no lefs than three convents of men and two of women; and eight churches, including thofe belonging to the convents, and the one in the Jefuits college. This college is a fine flruclure, and is feated on an elevation in the pleafanteft part of the city. Since the expulfion of that order, it has been fuffered to go to decay, and will probably, in a few, years, be no better than a heap of ruins. Fayal, although the moft noted for wine, does not raife fuflicient for its own confumption. This article is raifed on Pico, where there is no road for fhipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thence fhipped abroad, 3 chiefly *77f* chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal v-—„—u wine. Friday 14.. The bay, or road of Fayal, is fltuated at the Eafl end of the ifle, before the Villa de Horta, and facing the Weft end of Pico. It is two miles broad, and three quarters of a mile deep, and hath a femi-circular form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten and even fix fathoms, a fandy bottom; except near the fhore, and particularly near the S. W. head, off which the bottom is rocky, alfo without the line which joins the two points of the bay, fo that it is not fafe to anchor far out. The bearing before mentioned, taken when at anchor, will direct any one to the beft ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds moft to be apprehended, are thofe which blow from between the S. S. W. and S. E.; the former is not fo dangerous as the latter, becaufe, with it, you can always get to fea. Befides this road, there is a fmall cove round the S. W. point, called Porto Piere, in which, I am told, a fhip or two may lie in tolerable fafety, and where they fometimes heave fmall veflels down. A Portuguefe captain told me, that about half a league from the road in the direction of S. E., in a line between it and the South flde of Pico, lies a funken rock, over which is twenty-two feet water, and on which the fea breaks in hard gales from the South. He alfo affured me, that of all the fhoals that are laid down in our charts and pilot-books about thefe ifles, not one has any exiftence but the one between the iflands of St. Michael and St. Mary, called Hormingan.—-This account may be believed, without relying entirely upon it. He further informed me that it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the ifland of Flores; and that there runs a ftrong 9 tide ride between Fayal and Pico, the flood fetting to the N. E. ijTS* and the ebb to the S. W.; but that, out at fea, the direction is w-v-^—' . Friday 14. Eaft and Weft. Mr. Wales having obferved the times of high and low water by the fhore, concluded that it muft be high water at the full and change, about twelve o'clock, and the water rifeth about four or five feet. The diftance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by-Mr. Rebiers, lieutenant of the French frigate, who told me that, after being by eftimation two leagues due South of Flores, they made forty-four leagues, on a S. E. by E. courfe by compafs, to St. Catherine's Point on Fayal. I found the latitude of the fhip at anchor ) , , „T in the bay - - - - J J ^ " By a mean of feventeen fets of lunar obfervations, taken before we arrived, and reduced to the bay by the watch, the longitude was made - - - By a mean of fix fets after leaving it, and 1 ^ reduced back by the watch - - J 2 22 Longitude by obfervation - — Ditto, by the watch Error of the watch on our arrival at Portf- ) mouth - - - - - J True longitude by the watch. - - ~ 28 24 30 w. 28 S3 22 28 3* 28 SS 45 16 26^. 28 39 i8t I found the variation of the compafs, by feveral azimuths taken by different compaffes on board the fhip, to agree very well with the like obfervations made by Mr. Wales, 1775. Wales on more; and yet the variation thus found is greater Ju^lL-r by 50 than we found it to be at fea; for the azimuths "day 14. takcn on boarcl the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than 160 18' Wefl variation, and the evening after we came out, 170 3 3' Weil. I fhall now give fome account of the variation, as obferved in our run from the Ifland of Fernando De Noronho to Fayal. The leafl variation we found was 37' W., which was the day after we left Fernando De Noronho, and in the latitude of 33' S. longitude 320 16' W. The next day, being nearly in the fame longitude, and in the latitude of i° 25' N., it was i° 25 Wefl j and we did not find it increafe till we got into the latitude of 5°N., longitude 31° W. After this, our compafles gave different variation, viz. From 30 57' to 50 u' W., till wc arrived in the latitude of 260 44' North, longitude 410 Wefl, when we found 6° Wefl. It then increafed gradually, fo that in the latitude of 350 N., longitude 400 Wefl, it was io° 24' W.; in the latitude of 380 12' N., longitude 32°^W., it was 14° 47'; and in fight of Fayal 160 18' W., as mentioned above. wednef. 19. Having left the bay, at four in the morning of the 19th, I fleered for the wefl end of St. George's Ifland. As foon as we had paffed it, I fleered E. S. for the Ifland of Tercera ; and after having run thirteen leagues, we were not more than one league from the Wefl end. I now edged away for the North fide, with a view of ranging the coafl to the eaflern point, in order to afcertain the length of the ifland ; but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, I gave up the defign, and proceeded with all expedition for England. On On the 29th, we made the land near Plymouth. The next WS-morning, we anchored at Spithead; and the fame day, I >-— — 0 * ' Saturday 29. landed at Portfmouth, and fet out for London, in company suaday 30, -with Mcffrs. Wales, Forftcrs, and Hodges. Having been abfent from England three years and eighteen days, in which time, and under all changes of climate, I loft but four men, and only one of them by ficknefs, it may not be amifs, at the conclufion of this journal, to enumerate the feveral caufes, to which, under the care of providence, I conceive, this uncommon good ftate of health, experienced by my people, was owing. In the Introduction, mention has been made of the extraordinary attention paid by the Admiralty, in caufing fuch articles to be put on board, as either from experience or fuggeftion it was judged, would tend to prcferve the health of the feamen. I mall not trefpafs upon the reader's time in mentioning them all, but-confine myfelf to fuch as were found the moft ufeful. We were furnifhed with a quantity of malt, of which was made Sweet Wort. To fuch of the men, as fhewed the leafl fymptoms of the fcurvy ; and alfo to fuch as were thought to be threatened with that diforder, this was given, from one to two or three pints a clay each man; or in fuch proportion as the furgeon found neceffary, which fometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the beft anti-fcorbutic fea-medicines yet difcovered; and, if ufed in time, ■will, with proper attention to other things, I am perfuaded, prevent the fcurvy from making any'great progrefs for acon-iiderable while. But I am not altogether of opinion that it will cure it at fea. Vol. II, * Pp Sour Sour Kront, of which wc had a large quantity, is not only z wholefome vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly antifcorbutic ; and it fpoils not by keeping. A pound of this was ferved to each man, when at fea, twice a week, or oftener, as was thought neceffary. Portable Broth was another great article, of which we had a, large fupply. An ounce of this to each man, or fuch other proportion as circumflances pointed out, was boiled in their peafe, three days in the week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every morning for breakfaft ; and alfo with peafe and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make feveral nourifliing and wholefome meffes, and was the means of making the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwife have done. Rob of Lemon and Orange, is an antifcorbutic we were not without. The furgeon made ufe of it in many cafes, with., great fuccefs. Amongfl the articles of victualling, we were fupplied with Sugar in the room of Oil, and with Wheat for a part of our Oafi-meal; and were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antifcorbutic; whereas oil, (fuch as the navy is ufually fupplied with) I am of opinion* has the contrary effect. But the introduction of the mofl falutary articles, either as provifions or medicines, will generally prove unfuccefsful, unlcfs fupported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years experience, together with fome hints I had from Sir Hugh Pallifer, captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intel-8 ligent ligcnt officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed. The crew were at three watches, except upon fome extraordinary occafions. By this means they were not fo much expofed to the weather as if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry cloaths to fliift themfclves, when they happened to get wet. Care was alfo taken to ex-pofe them as little to wet weather as poflible. Proper methods were ufed to keep their perfons, hammocks, bedding, cloaths, Sec. conflantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the fhip clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week fhe was aired with fires; and when this could not be done, fhe was fmoked with gun-powder, mixed with vinegar or water. I had alfo, frequently, a fire made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of great ufe in purifying the air in the lower parts of the fhip. To this, and to cleanlinefs, as well in the fhip as amongft the people, too great attention cannot be paid; the leafl neglect occafions a putrid and difagreeable fmell below, which nothing but fires will remove. Proper attention was paid to the fhip's coppers, fo that they were kept conftantly clean* The fat, which boiled out of the fait beef and pork, I never fuffered to be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the fcurvy. I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we did not want it. Becaufe I look upon frefli water from the fhore, to be more wholefome than that which has been kept fome time on board a fhip. Of this effential - P P 2 article, article, we were never at an allowance, but had always plenty for every neceflary purpofe. Navigators in general cannon indeed, expect, nor would they wifli to meet with fuch advantages in this refpeet, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers infeparable from that fituation, were, in fome degree, compenfated by the Angular felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhauftible fupplies of frefh water from an ocean flrewed with ice. We came to few places, where cither the art of man, or the bounty of nature, had not provided fome fort of refrefli-ment or other, either in the animal or vegetable way. It was my firfl care to procure whatever of any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige our people to make ufe thereof, both by my example and authority j but the benefits ariflng from refrefhments of any kind: foon became fo obvious, that I had little occafion to recom* mend the one, or to exert the other. It doth not become me to fay how far the principal objects of our voyage have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, nor been diverfified by fudden tranfitions of fortune ; though my relation of it has been more employed in tracing our courfe by fea, than in recording our operations on fhore; this, perhaps, is a cir-cumflance from which the curious reader may infer, that the purpofes for which we were fent into the fouthern he-mifphcre, were diligently and effectually purfued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better enabled to gratify curioflty ; but we hope our not having found it, after all our perfevering fearches, will leave lefs room for future fpceulation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored, 6 4 But, But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with .real fatisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this Account with an obfervation, which facts enable me to make, that our having difcovered the poflibility of preferving health amongft a numerous fhip's company, for fuch a length of time, in fuch varieties of climate, and amidfl fuch continued hardships and fatigues, will make this Voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent perfon, when the difputes about a Southern Continent mall have ceafed to engage the attention, and to divide the judgement of philofophers. TABLES TABLES O F T H E ROUTE of the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations, during the Voyage. N. B. In thefe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is, in general, fet down ; and the Variation, as it was obferved, either on the Morning or Evening of the fame Day, or both. Therefore, the Tables do not contain the exact Place where the Variation was obferved, but the Difference is fo little that it can make no material Error. TABLE I. From the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand. Time. 1772. Nov. 2435 2; Dec, j P. M. Noon. Latitud in South. 26 39 2740 28 40 25 37 15 4 4 59 29 42 9 ■ 42 43 43 3 44 15 5 47 648 7 49 S49 9 49 10 11 12 24 21 52 28 46 10 4' 46 5i 51 5* J354 0 14 54 55 Longitude in Eaft 7 54 6 35 6 23 6 1 7 *4 7 43 7 40 8 17 15 4 44 8 24 8 20 20 23 21 3 2° 33' 20 52 21- 44 Variation of the Compafs Weft. l8 30 18 16 *5 55, 18 11 *9 58 16 30 16 29 17 o °3' 64 69 52 .60 57 55 5i 4? 49 44x 48 42 40 36' 4 344 32 33 to) Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29 3° 29 30 29 29 29 29 29 *9 29 29 28 28 29 10 o 80 o 8* W, S. W. and S. E. Fair and clear weather. S. E. to E. Frefli gales and fair. N. N..E. Brifk breeze and cloudy. S. S> W. Gentle breeze. N. W. Frefli gales and cloudy. , Wefterly. Strong gales with fqualls of hail and rain. 60 20 30 20 5° 70 Go 90 30 -Fair weather. ^9 4° 29 2-8 28 25 55 70 29 15 N. W. Strong gales with rain. Ditto. Foggy. Wefterly. Frefh gales and clear. N. W. Frefli gale9 and fair weather. Northerly. Frefli gales and hazy. S. W. Frefli gales and fair. N. W. A very hard gale with rain. Ditto. Hazy. Wefterly. A frefh gale and fair.. Ditto. With fnow and. ileet,,faw the firfl ice iiland. Ditto. Northerly. A frefli breeze with rain. S. W. Snow fhowers. Wefterly. A gentle breeze and fair, a very large field of ice to the South. TABLE I. Continued. From the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand. Time. 1772. Dec. 17 20 A.M. 21 Noon 22 Latitude in South. 55 *'6 0 54 53 5° 54 54 30 12 2355 2631 33 31 19 29 32 4 39 25 2 7 29 30 P. M. 31 '773- Jan. lj Noon. 5 2 4 7 9 11 12 2456 3' 57 50 . 58 ^9 2858 44 59 12 59 23 60 21 do 12 59 ^ 2 60 41 Longitude in Eaft. 23 I42O 50 25 10 28 I3 29 24 21 26 Si 55 19 i 17 1 13 32 3635 63 12 64 12 H63 57 P.M. 17 Noon 19 64 :9 2) Noon 23 A.M. 2558 10 67 15 12 1 9 45 f4 43 28 33 37 29 38 14 39 3 Variation of the Compafs Weft. 2 I 47 23 56 19 30 12 8 27 42 27 15 24 14 0828 27 39 3529 3° 40 12 62 4841 25 4<> 45 60 58 2449 5i 25 31 16 28 33 52 1 n do 3i 34 33 29 20 34 29 65 35 29 40 321-36 29 5 29 45 35 29 5 36 29 20 36; 29 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29 29 39 51 3ii 31 34 35 5 354 35 354 30 S. S. W. Frefli gales and hazy. 10 ■ N. W. Weather hazy with fnow. £N. N. E. Strong gales and hazy with fnow. ! Wefterly. A frefli gale and fair. S. W. A gentle gale, iflands of ice continually in fight. Wefterly. Fair and cloudy. N. E. Gentle breeze and fair weather. Southerly. Frefli gale. Light airs, next to a calm. Eafterly. Frefli gales. Ditto. Showers of fnow. Northerly. Fair S. E. Hard gales, hazy with fnow. 9 22 29 29 29 29 95 55 5° 5 20" 20 15 Southerly. Frefli gales with fnow, S. W. Fair. No ice in fight. N. W. Frefli gales. Ice in fight. Weft. Frefh gales with fnow fhowers. SN- W. Gentle breeze. Taking on 1 board ice. S'North. Ditto. Several iflands of ice in 29 35^ fight. Southerly. Snow fhowers. Ditto. Light airs and fair. E. by S. Frefli gales. Many iflands of I ice in fight. I Ditto. Gentle breezes. J Southerly. Frefli breezes, with fnow ( fhowers. 1 Ditto. Frefli gales, with fnow fliowers. ! Wefterly. Frefh gales and fair. S Eafterly. Strong gales, with fleet anc / fnow. 55 29 10 354 28 55 364 29 0 344 29 20 / TABLE L Continued. From the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand. Time. '773-Jan. 26 Noun 2 2! 3° 31 Feb. 1 \ P. M. j Noon 2 10 12 17 20 22 P. M. 23 Noon 25 P. M. 2661 Noon 27 28 Vol. 11. Latitude in Sooth. 57 756 8 54 2952 5l 5° 48 48 348 449 549 648 748 8 49 50 52 16 28 28 29 34 50 3o & 59 16 8 6 51 51 7 48 13 53 54 1455 15 56 1657 23 5^ 8 57 54 i8 57 1958 5B 59 61 60 ')0 9 5; 3° 47 35 5^ 49 21 28 58 Longitude in Eaft. Vauation of the Compafs Weft. 50 54 50 51 53 55 56 58 7 4732 4^33 37 55 4830 59 60 58 5B 58 61 % 64 70 72 74 78 80 3z 35 27 11 5428 1830 32 3i 35 4 83 44 87 43 91 44 4 93 36 95 2 95 15 97 ioo iq IO4 44 29 43 48 57 53 29 32 2433 4p>34 4838 59 23 o 49 2 5° 5° 26 24 28 4 5 8 18 J9 38 21 40 5i 35 35 38 39' 38^ 45 46 45 41 53t 44 43-; 414 38 36 354 3^4 34 35 33 35 35 344 IK 34: :6: 28 28 29 29 29 2n 25 9° 40 55 55 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29 90 29 80 29 65 29 60 29 45 29 70 29 25 29 45 29 55 29 6o*J; 29 35 I 29 40] 29 5G 29 -9 29 29 •1 10 20 30 28 80 29 o 28 40 29 <;o Calm. Hazy dirty weather. Southerly. Frefli breezes and cloudy. N. W. Frefh gales with fleet. Ditto. Strong gales and fair. Northerly, Frefli gales with rain. W. N. W. Fair weather. Ditto. No ice to be feen. Wefl:. Frefli breeze and hazy. Northerly. Very ftrong gales with rain. N. W. Frefli gales and fair weather. Wefterly. Ditto. N. W. Ditto. North. Ditto. Ditto. Foggy with drizzling rain. Wefterly. Strong gales and fair. S. W. by W. Gentle gales. Weft. Frefli breezes. Saw feveral penguins. S.W. by W. Snow (bowers, S. W. Fair. Saw two feals. Northerly. Light breezes. An ice ifland in fight. E. S. E. Dark cloudy weather. Taking up ice. Southerly. A moderate breeze and fair. Wefterly. Frefli gales with fnow fhowers. South. A gentle breeze and fair. Eafterly. A trcih gale with fnow fhowers. Eafterly. Thick hazy weather and fleet. N. W. Light breezes and fair weather. Eaftcrly. t\ frefh breeze and fair. Southerly. Strong gales, fnow and fleet. Wefterly. A fre(h gale and fair. U.4 TABLE L Continued. From the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand. Time. 773- March i 10 11 12 60 360 60 660 7 59 859 9 53 58 58 5* 1458 Noon 1559 1658 1758 1955 2053 2151 2249 2347 2446 2546 2645 Latitude in South. Longitude in Eaft, 35 i? 38 4 53 44 55 5 7 56 22 4 52 40 107 42 109 59 116 50 118 o 39 4 31 30 i 14 55 46 16 120 15 121 123 728 35 127 41 130 21 131 41 136 22 139 5° 143 27 147 43 I52 '.54 157 *59 161 164 166 48 166 i 53 11 28 47 18 1 r 44 Varwiion of the Compafs Welt. ii 57 9 49 o 474 Eafl. r 1 n J9 40 '3 59 *3 7 354 38 374 37 34-4 40 37 35 57 394 33 34 354 354 43 45 46 47 49 52 54 534 28 29 28 28 28 28 28 29 -9 28 28 28 29 29 ^9 29 29 29 3° *9 29 3° 35 5 8j 95 60 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. E. A light breeze with drizzling rain. S. W. to N. W. A gentle breeze. Eafterly. Wefterly. \ Eafterly. A light breeze with fnow and 5SI fleet. go j Calm. No ice in fight. Southerly. Hard gales with fnow anc I fleet. S. S. W. Frefli gale and fair. N. E. Sleet and fnow. Weft. A gentle breeze and mild weather. S. S. E. Frefh gale and fhowery. Wefterly. Squalls of fnow and hail. Southerly. Frefli gale and moftly fair. S. W. Fair weather. l5 90 85 85 10 15 80 75 95 85 15 95 85 15 W. N. W. A frefh gale. Wefterly. N. N. W. A ftrong gale. South. Frefh gale and fair. S. E. S. E. Fbggy.^ Wefterly, Fair weather. S, S. W. Sailing into Dufky Bay, TABLE II. Route of the Adventure from the 13th of February to Van Diemen's Land. Time. '773 Feb. 13 Noon 45 55"2 75 85 1 1 1 1 20 21 2352 2452 265 28 March 1 Latitude in South. 5i 5 1 40 12 2 54 2 5-52 22 52 20 18 10 22 50 20 19 4 346 22 4 44 5° 5 44 1 6 43 56 7 43 47 9 43 Longitude in Eaft. 71 23 32 30 74 78 3 84 53 88 57 97 110 104 107 8 115 32 121 40 125 o I30 21 I32 20 135 15 5234 6 35 I38 42 !4i 5 44 r45 53 Variation of the Compafs Welt. 14 07 0830 46 29 5 1425 2 21 30 '5 47 10 20 6 35 3 50 1 30 Eaft. o 55 I J3 39 391 3* 37 40 35 41 414 41 44 44 49: 53 5* 56 52 55 59 &3 to i Winds Weather, and Remarks. { Wefterly. A moderate breeze and cloudy. Ditto. A frefh gale with fhowers of fnow and fleet. Ditto. Fair weather. Between the N. W. and N. E. A frefli gale with fleet and rain. N. W. A frefli gale and fqually. Wefterly. Strong gales with fqualls of fnow and fleet. S. E. A light breeze and fair weather. Northerly. A ftrong gale with fqualls of rain. N. N. W. A moderate breeze and fair. N. N. E. A frefli gale. Saw fome pieces of rock-weed. N. W. by W. Strong gales and hard fqualls with fnow. N. W. A frefli gale. N. N. W. Strong gales and thick hazy weather with rain. S. W. A frefh gale. Weft. A frefh gale and fqually. W. S. W. Ditto. Wefterly. A frefh breeze and fair. N. W. Land extending from N. by W. to E. S. E. Q^l 2 T A B l E III. Route of the Resolution and Adventure from New Zealand to Otaheite. Time. 1773- June 10 Noon A. M. Noon P. M. Noon Mid- i night 5 Noon A. M. Noon ii 12 13 i i i i 20 21 22 23 24 5 4-6 647 746 8 45 54 44 3o 44 26 44 4i 44 38 43 3<5 3° 11 12 144 J5 Latitude in South. 43 S5 44 35 45 26 46 46 7 18 2542 53 11 32 2942 46 2643 2842 43 7 43 7 43 3 3 43 443 543 741 1043 18 58 10 22 46 43 34 43 16 3 43 Longitude in Eaft. *79 8 Weft. 79 J3 76 41 75 59 74 o 73 o 72 41 70 38 65 45 64 o 62 23 61 27 61 38 63 20 42 39 63 61 60 56 7 15 59 25 57 44 56 *7 55- o 54 18 52 15 50 i2 44 13 41 56 40 9 39 ic 38 9 37 58 Variation of the Compafs Eaft. ii 24": ro 10 T9 43 54 59 $H 5i4 494 48 48; 50; 52i 507 5*i 7 59 6 55 8 32 7 4 3 0 5 0 5 18 5 37 5'-; 49 47 5° 48^ 48 5*! 51 47 49 49i s"2 Winds, Weather, and Remarks, 29 70 29 75 29 65 30 o 29 78 29 75 29 9° 30 15 30 25 30 25 30 25 29 45 j S. W. to N. W. f fair. A gentle breeze and 55±*9 25 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 30 3° 30 29 40 65 j 75-1 80 I 70 85 45 80 3° 25 25 80 29 45 j Northerly. A frefh gale with rain. Wefterly. A light breeze with rain. Eafterly. A frefh gale and fair. N. E. A light breeze. S. E. Strong gales with rain. Ditto. Squally unfettled weather. Ditto. Frefh gale and fair. S. E. by S. A gentle gale. Wefterly. Ditto. A high breeze. Variable light airs. Eafterly. A very hard gale. N.E. by N. A frefh gale. E. N. E. W. S. W. Light airs. E. N. E. A light breeze. Southerly. A frefh gale. Saw a Port Egmont hen. S. Eafterly. A gentle breeze. Southerly. * Northerly. A gentle breeze and fair weather. Eafterly. A frefh gale. S. S. E. Squally with rain. Southerly. A gentle breeze. Wefterly. Squalls of rain. Southerly. A gentle beeeze and fair. s. s. w. N. W. N. E. A frefli gale and dark gloomy weather. Ditto. Thick fog with drizzling rain. TABLE HI. Continued. From New Zealand to Otaheite. Time. July 1739 1837 1936 21 22 44 34 32 47 3i A.M. Noon A. M. 29 Noon 30 3i Aug. 1 4 5 P. M. 6 Noon 7 8 10 12 13 14 15 Latitude in South. 23 29 2429 2529 26 28 2727 6 22 46 5i 53 53 49 4 J9 1 8 18 Longitude in Weil. 27 27 26 25 22 21 20 40 19 36 18 51 18 5 17 23 17 11 17 16 *7 45 33 32 33 33 33 34 34 18 7 37 12 12 35 36 36 28 35 3° 35 *7 36 49 35 *5 34 49 34 6 39 21 6 n r» 00 32 26 33 32 3J 33 35 57 39 56 43 38 44 54 46 41 48 16 Variation of the H Compafs Eaft. S I 44i 5 29 50 5 33 54 5 21 60 5 34 63 5 3 667 5 0 67t 71 68 687 4 54 7i 5 i° 74 f* T • 75 75 787 781 6 48 791 79 5 10 80 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29 80 30 20 3° 29 29 29 29 3° 29 29 29 30 30 30 3° 30 30 30 30 3° 3° 3° 60 85 85 90 5 90 90 75 o 5 5 jq|S. W. Strong gales with fqualls of hail \ and rain. South. A gentle breeze and fair. S. W. by S. E. S. E. A frefli breeze. S. W. by W. Showery. N. W. by N. Hazy with rain. N. N. W. A frefli gale and fair. Ditto. Heavy fhowers of rain. N. W. A gentle breeze and fair, S. W. Light airs. N. N. W. A gentle breeze; Ditto. N. W. Ditto. Wefterly. A light breeze. N. W. A gentle breeze. Ditto. A brifk gale. Little wind and fhowery. A brifk gale and fair weather. 10 20 20 Ditto. S. E. Ditto. Eaft. \ Ditto. Failed a low ifland. A brifk gale. PafTed another 51 iiland. 10 I Ditto. 10 I Ditto. \ Ditto. Ofnaburg or Maitea Ifland, E. S. 10 { E. dift. TABLE IV. Route of the Resolution and Adventure from Ul etea to the Friendly Iflands and New Zealand. Time. J773- Sept. i8[ Noon * *9 20 2] oa. 17 17 17 41 18 4 18 24 22)18 40 23 24 Latitude in South. r9 '9 *5*9 26 27 28 29 30 20 20 21 21 21 29 52 23 40 3 29 10 Noon 9 10 11 12 21 21 22 28 22 46 23 25 1327 1428 1530 J631 1732 1833 Longitude in Weft. 153 10 154 21 155 29 156 22 157 18 49 160 162 164 166 168 170 172 T74 22 26 15 12 29 18 Variation of the Compafs Eaft. 7 5° 7 26 7 56 1 r 9 42 44 10 42 S3 4 174 56 176 13 J9 20 21 35 37 39 50 36 13 38 15 4i 41 48 58 ] 23 12 6 4t 6 177 178 179 179 47 Hall. 179 54 179 3" i79 3 '79 39 i79 49 179 3^ 178 38 ir 11 11 11 10 10 14 2 49 49 12 79 81 3i 81 78 73 74 74 73 7i 7* 72 70 70 73 70 7^ 7° 67 69 68 69 66 67 60! 62 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30 5 Eafterly. A gentle gale and fair. 30 o Ditto. 29 95 Ditto. 30 o Between the North and Weft. TEafterly. A freih breeze with mowers " ■ 1 of rain. JS. E. A gentle breeze and fair. Lane 35 5 L jn fight. 30 o 30 o 3o 5 30 5 3° 5 30 5 30 10 30 10 30 3° 3o 5 30 25 30 20 30 20 30 25 figh Ditto. A brifk gale with flying fhowers Ditto. Fair weather. Ditto. E. S. E. Eaft. E. S. E. iS. E. ) E. S. E. In the afternoon faw the iflanc I of Middleburg. t Southerly. A frefli breeze and fai I weather. (S. E. Pililart Ifland N. N. E„ five t leagues diftant. E. S. E. Ditto. Ditto. A gentle breeze. Eaft. 30 3° 3o 25 30 20 30 20 30 o 29 70 Ditto. Ditto N. E. by N. A light breeze. N. E. by N. A frefh gale. Ditto. Wefterly. Much rain,a frefh gale andfair r Northerly. Cape Table, Weft, eight 29 7° l or nine leagues diflant. TABLE V. Route of the Resolution from New Zealand to Eafter Ifland. Time. '773- Nov. 27 j Noon, i 3° Dec. 1 8 23 449 55 5 5° J5 P. M. 651 32 Noon 855 39 10 1 j 12 1 Laumd< in 43 27 45 5C 47 ^4 958 02 59 12 60 42 62 46 42 363 1464 1565 664 764 864 55 52 16 41 1964 49 L">npi-tude in I (all. 75 59 78 .3 79 3° Weft. 79 16 79 16 Eafl. 79 44 80 00 Weft. 78 53 77 43 75 52 73 °4 70 26 67 44 63 20 5? 20 V filiation of the Compafs Eaft. 12 52 l8 25 17 l8 *9 J3 14 12 58 co 55 4[ 52 0610 18 49 2413 24 62 49 49t 4** 47" 47 43 bd 29 95 29 30 29 29 29 29 29 95 Wind, Weather, and Remarks. Northerly. Frefh gales and fair weather. 1 S. W. Frefli gales, faw rock-weed, feals and oceanic birds. 00 I Ditto. Ditto. Swell from S. W. V Ditto. Little wind and foggy. Seals, 9° t rock-weed, and penguins feen. $ Northerly. Little wind and foggy with ' rain. J Light airs at S. E., feals and penguins, a 75 ' great fwell from S. W. J Northerly. Frefh gales and thick hazy 5°' weather. S Wefl: northerly. Strong gales and hazy* 45* Hish fea from S. W. 44*28 36 J29 40 |29 7° I 45 05 °5 32 28 3i 33 33! 33 34 JN. W. Frefli gales and hazy. Saw a piece of weed. S. S. W. Strong gales with fhowers of rain. Wefterly. Frefh gales with fnow fhowers in the night. S. W. Frefti gales. 5 Northerly. Frefh gales with fnow and 9° I fleet. t Wefterly. Frefli gales and hazy wea-34*29 °5l ther. Ice-iflands in fight. Ditto. Ditto, with fnow fhowers, abundance of ice. Saw fome penguins and antarclic peterels. 5 E. N. E. Gentle gales with fnow 4° I fhowers. Amongft ice. 05 j Northerly, Ditto. Took on board ice. c N. E. Moderate breezes and thick fog-t gy weather. Several ice-iflands. 28 80 \ Northerly. Ditto breezes and clear L weather. 28 85 29 29 29 00 TABLE V. Continued. From New Zealand to Eafter Ifland. Time. Latitude in South. «773- Dec. A. M. P. M. Noon. 20 21 22 25 28 2 «774- Jan. iS 57 67 2367 5 20 Longitude in Weft. Var anon of the Compafs Eaft. 66 23 64 20 9 6. 2 24 3lS9 4° i35 n 57 58 3,56 46 P. M. Noon. 454 6Sz 7 5o ^49 948 48 47 49 148 28 *45 49 i43 54 137 " 135 7 *5* 26 134 4 133 37 10 1 jt 12 1353 1556 1656 17I58 N^on. : 8 60 55 0 36 7 17 7 51 32 o 2062 22 4 34 54 34 137 12 139 45 139 4 '35 32 133 18 131 2 127 10 124 46 122 12 11 j 52 i-i 8 3 1 13 4^ 13 9 11 12 ft 122 4 33 33 119 24 118 14 116 58 116 24 112 54 7 36 26 34 o 26 0» do 34 33 4 34- b a o 1 Wind, Weather, and Remarks. [ N. E. Frefli gales and thick hazy 29 20 £ weather, with fnow and fleet. o c Ditto. Strong gales and foggy, much 2 ^° I peflered with ice. 28 70 j N. N. E. A moderate breeze and hazy. 28 QC \ Northerly. A gentle breeze. Very " c cold and much ice. ■ J A fine breeze at N. W. Many iflands 29 ~° I of ice in fight. 29 o Frefh gales eafterly, with fnow fhowers. 28 65 j Southerly. With fnow and fleet. 1 S Wefterly. A gentle breeze and fair 29 *] weather. 10 «o 59 387 36 46; 17 50 49i Sli 52T 50 50 5i 47! 40 40 37 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 9 29 29 29 29 , Q iO 28 >8 N. E. by E. $ \ fleet. No ice in fight. f Frefli gales with fnow and 10 S. W. Ditto and fair. Saw fome fea-weed. N. W. by W. Strong gales and fair weather. 30 Wefterly. Ditto. 25 Gentle gales at N. W. 50 Wefterly. Pleafant weather. 70 Ditto. Ditto. 55 Ditto. Light airs and cloudy. 50 Ditto. Frefli gales and clear weather. 75 N. N. W. Ditto, and fair weather. N. W. Frefh gales and thick weather. ^ North. Very ftrong gales and thick 3° * weather. 80 70 95 55 j 70J Wefterly. Frefli gales and clear weather Ditto. Ditto fhowery. Ditto. Moderate and hazy. Calm and fair weather. Iflands of ice in Gght. Light airs, fnow. foutherly, with fleet and TABLE V. Continued. Route of the Resolution from New Zealand to Eafter Ifland. Time. '774- Jan. 23 Latitude in South. 2463 4° 2 ; 6$ 24 2666 36 2767 22 2869 35 2070 A. M. 30 Noon. 31 Feb. 1 2 7 62 22 7i 60 68 67 66 25 10 13 1 7 465 42 564 6 61 6 858 955 10 11 12 20 21 22 23 Longitude in Weft. 1J 55 19 27 18 20 j 10 22 108 17 100 31 109 31 118 15 108 15 107 2723 35- ro6 54 105 39 105 o 134 46 8 101 5 39 53 37 5i 36 50 15 *35o 13 1449 32 J549 o 1647 45 17 46 16 1844 11 1942 5 39 58 37 54 36 1 o 36 40 99 98 97 97 97 95 95 96 95* 95 94 93 93 95 94 94 94 91 Variation of the Compafs Eaft. 22 55 99 44 25 42 44 13 24 24 24 46 18 1 11 38 jS 5* 5S 2c 37 2 i$ 17 13 '4 12 10 30 30 42 20 9 51 3« 39 40 0/ » 36 161! 34 35 37 35 34i 38I 40 4ii 47 47 5' 471 52 53 54 56 55 507 58; 66 67I 69 69 28 28 28 29 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 Wind, Weather, and Remarks. 85 75 28 90 55 South. Frefh gales and fair. 60 Frefli gales wefterly. o j Northerly. Frefh breezes and fair wea-°U ther. 5 i N. E. Little wind and hazy, with rain. {Ditto. Moderate breezes with fnow fhowers, o JE. N. E. Little wind and thick foggj * I weather. Loofe ice. 5 North. A gentle breeze and clear wea-7° j- ther. 80 Eafterly. Ditto. Stopped by ice. 90 I Ditto. A frefh breeze and ^oggy. No 29 28 28 7-9 29 29 29 29 30 30 30 29 29 29 3° 39 3° 75 65 10 10 40 20 9° o J5 5 9° 90 85 35 40 40 45 45 Ditto, Gentle breezes and fair. S. E. by E. Ditto. Light breezes and cloudy. ice in fight. N. E- Light breeze and clear pleafant weather. Variable. FYefh gales, fleet and fnow. Wefterly. Frefli gales with fhowers. South. Ditto. Wefterly. Frefli gales and fair weather. Ditto. Ditto. N. W. Strong gales with rain. S. W. Light airs. N. W. A frefh gale and cloudy. Variable. N. W. Frefli gales and foggy with rain Ditto. Ditto. Fair. W. N. W. A frefh breeze. S. by W. Frefli gales and fair weather. Wefterly. Gentle breeze and pleafant Ditto. (weather Ditto. Southerly. Gentle breeze. N. E. Ditto. Vol. 11. R r TABLE V. Continued. Route of the Resolution from New Zealand to Eafter Ifland. Time. •774< Feb. 24 P.M. 25 Noon 2636 37 Latitude in South. o ✓ 37 25 37 52 Mar. 27 28 1 2 4 6 7 8 11 34 53 33 7 32 28 31 I£ 2g 56 29 23 28 20 27 4 27 ii Longitude in Weft. ioi I02 I02 98 44 101 10 57 33 23 102 47 102 29 100 59 101 3 102 3 103 58 109 2 Variation of the Compafs Weft. o 8 10 6 38 5 53 3 44 3 4 4 45 36 50 4 47 45 31 71 69 65 68 vi 74 747 74 741 75i 75 bd Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 3° 29 30 30 30 3° 30 30 30 30 :o 25 95 o 20 20 20 15: z5 . 3° I 30 30 North. Frefli breezes and fine weather. N. W. Gentle breeze. S. W. Frefh gale. E. S. E. Gentle breeze. E. N. E. Wefterly. Light airs. N. W. Ditto. Northerly. A gentle breeze. Many birds. Eaft. Ditto. Ditto. Lightbreeze. Eafter Ifland Weft, diftant twelve leagues, s T A B L Route of the Resolution from E VL Eafter Ifland to the Marquefas, Time. 177+- Mar. 18 Noon April P. M. 20 21 22 24 26 2C 3^ 1 3 5 6 Latitude in South. 26 5 21 i 19 20 I? 7 Longitude in Weft. Ill 32 113 i IJ3 114 117 14. 41.120' to IO I23 9 24^26 9 3<>|l29 133 9 33 20 136 138 58 49 11 1 18 3^ 17 V at latiui of the Compaf Weft. 2 34 5 4 1 56 2 10 1 57 1 27 4 3 4 40 4 27 761 77 /7 7^ 76 781 81 So^ 81 82 82-I to Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30 30 30 20 30 20 30 20 30 15 30 10 29 95 30 o 29 90 30 o 30 o N. E. Light breeze. ; Eafterly. A fteady gale and pleafant J weather. I E. N. E. j Eafterly. With fhowers of rain. {Ditto. A gentle breeze and fine clear \ weather. Ditto. E. S. E. Eaft. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. S E. S. S. Hood's Ifland (one of the Mai <• quefas) W, by S,, dift. nine leagues. TABLE VII. Route of the Resolution from Ulietea to the New Hebrides. Time. 1774-June Noon Latitude in South. Longitude in Weft. Variation of the Compafs Eaft. Therm. to ■ 3 3 0 / l6 50 154 J3 0 / a JO O 7 17 12 r55 34 8it 29 85 8 17 3 2 156 1 7 55 807 29 95 9 17 48 r56 43 8 10 81 29 85 11 17 46 '5** 9 771 30 0 13 i8 45 161 29 80 14 18 35 162 45 9 15 75t 30 0 16,18 4 163 10 9 16 19,18 25 1G7 ir 10 227 77 3° 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. E. Frefh gales. N. W. Squally with rain. N. E. Light breezes and fair. Northerly. S. S. E. Gentle gale. Eaft. Southerly. \ ight airs next to a calm. ---Palmerfton's Ifland, Eaft. A gentle breeze. TABLE VII. Continued, Route of the Resolution from Ulietea to the New Hebrides- Time. Latitude in South. 1773- | o ■ j June 2118 57 24 20 24 Longitude in Weft. 26 20 23 174 6 July Noon 27*20 15 ■ '9 57 3 l9 47 T° 6 20 820 9,20 io'jc; ii 18 13'^ 14! c 5 '5*5 ^9 39 i73 39 '74 S1 176 6 178 2 16 5* 42 53 26 »5 as ( Variation of the Compafs Eaft. td >-« o 3 Wind, Weather, and Remarks. 11 40 12 6 9 47 12 28 37179 20 Eaft. I79 30I I77 18 176 15 *75 >75 i73 i 72 71 12 30 <5 35 o 31 35 iG 169 18 44 59 8 11 22 10 46 14 12 13 11 10 10 11 77t 79 75 75 74 75t 76 78 IE. N. E. Savage Ifland, South, one mile 30 10 j difcant. 30 5 I Ditto. Light breeze. (S. S. E. In fight of the ifles on the eaft 00 IO \ fide of Annamocka. At anchor in the Road of Annamocka. 30 15 j S. E. by E. Gentle breezes. (Ditto. Turtle Ifland S. E. by S. diftant 3° *4 it mile. I 5 Eafterly. Gentle breezes and gloomy 3Q 51 Weather. 30 3° 78 29 74! 29 74 |*9 76 30 78 '30 79t3° T5 10 90 90 90 o o c 79 |3° 0 A gentle breeze and cloudy. Frefli gales. Little wind and cloudy. Frelh gales. Eaft, N. E. N.w. S. E. Ditto. S. E. Gentle breezes and fine weather. S E. by E. S. E. Frefh breezes and fair. Ditto. Frefh gales and fqually with rain in the afternoon made the Ifland , uiurara, one of.the Hebrides. TABLE VIII. Route of the Resolution from New Caledonia to New Zealand. Time. „ '774' Oci. sq Noon J 425 1 2 it Latitude in South. 23 18 24 26 *7 52 417 828 9 10 25 28 54 28 57 31 1 32 55 35 32 37 32 39 24 Longitude in Eaft. l69 34 o 1J [71 J71 43 170 26 169 21 168 c 167 47 168 2C 170 55 172 41 173 46 vai i ition of the Compafs Eaft. 9 27 10 0 lis 36 53 r3 19 '3 9 11 9 10 o iO 18 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 66f 29 68 70 65 30 65 30 64l:3° 29 29 90 80 90 20 Southerly. Gentle breeze and cloudy. S. W. Frefli gales and fair. Ditto. Squally with fhowers of rain. Calm and fair. 64 30 66730 65730 65*;3° 59 29 S. E. Gentle breezes and clear wea-ther. 30 j Southerly. ( Ditto. Norfolk Ifle extending from 25 55 I New Zealand leagues. N. E., diftant four TABLE IX. Route of the Resolution from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego. Time. '774 Nov. 15^ Noon 16 Dec. $ 47 3o 49 33 12 175 18 19 53 43 20 21 22 23 54 8 55 3' 55 48 55 46 2455 38 25 55 9 1 11 12 \i. 16 ,atitude in Snuih. 52 44 Longitude in Weft. 2^55 55 955 24 55 38 54 56 3 54 4 53 15 7 53 19 54 c 53 40 53 25 53 25 53 2° 1753 21 178 19 *75 3i l73 ll 169 57 166 15 162 13 160 29 i57 4 «56 4 153 37 149 28 i44 43 138 J6 129 39 127 11 125 o I2'3 47 120 42 108 48 102 7 V6 52 92 44 86 56 79 37 76 17 Variation of the Compafs Rift. Therm.j Barom. 0 51 0 , 1 29 40 { 5° 29 45 | 9 52 29 351 10 26 29 45 49 29 50 43t 28 85 44 9 24 44t 29 45 46 29 80 • 6 35 45 i 447 1! 29 80 45t 29 75 451 29 55 1 28 45 29 yo 45 29 25 3 22 5 1 29 5 9 58 44 29 75J 45 29 75' 14 14 '7 ^° 46 29 15 20 6 47 29 15 • Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. W.by W Gentle breezes with fome fhowers of rain. refterly. Frefh gales and fair weatht N. N. E. Strong gales and fqually with rain. North. A gentle breeze and hazy weather. Ditto. Frefli gales. Ditto. Gentle breezes and foggy. N.E. Ditto. N. N. W. Light breeze and hazy. Calm and clear weather. N. W. Frefh gales and cloudy. N. W. by N. Frefli gales and clc weather. N. N. W. Strong gales and hazy. Many birds about the fhip. Ditto. Ditto, and cloudy. N. W. Little wind and hazy. Little wind at N. E. and hazy, with drizzling rain. S. E. Frefh breeze and fair. E. S. E. Hazy with rain. South. Frefli gales and clear weather. Wefterly, Clear pleafant weather. Southerly. Strorg gales. Wefterly, A frefh gale and cloudy. Ditto. Gentle breezes and fine weather. Ditto. Frefli breezes. Ditto. Ditto. Showery. At midnight made Cape Defeada at the weft entrance of theStraits of Magalhaens, bearing N.E . byN. T A B L E X. Route of the Resolution from Staten Land to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. ' 77 5- an. 4 j Noon 5 55 33 57 9 P.M. G58 jo 1 5& 4 Noon b$s 9 Latitude in South. I 1 Noon 12 a, M. 105-4 23 54 35 54 *8 *355 7 1453 56i P. M. 24 A.M. 2653 33 P.M. 2760 Noon 28 60 4 ( 59 3° 59 lS 3^ Feb. Lonpi-tiidc in Wefl. 62 13 58 46 53 54 :>3 36 52 15 49 2; 45 Jc 42 40 32 58 25 57 41 56 44 557 8 8 15 7 58 24 39 24 31 10 o 40 29 23 29 33 27 26 27 18 27 25 23 23 34 21 34 .7 4.6 Variation of the Compafs Eaft. 21 28 20 4 19 ~5 () 26 H ST ft 9 0 51 47 49 39 37^ to 11 18 1 58 37 36 37 39 TO Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 29 50 £q I W. to S. W. Frefh gales and fqualls c of rain. 29 60 j Wefterly. A frefli gale and fair. cS. W. Strong gales and fqually, with L fleet. Wefterly. a frefli gale and fair. N. W. a gentle breeze. Northerly. Frefli gales and foggy. W. S. W. a gentle breeze and cloudy. S. W. a gentle breeze. Ditto. Saw a feal. 29 15 i cS. E. a light breeze. Ifle of Georgia V 35 1 i?t 1 g ^ thirteen leagues diftant. c Ifle of Georgia W. N. W., eight league: t diftant. JN. by W. a frefli gale and clear wea-i ther. 5 Northerly. a gentle breeze and foggy. Saw an ice-ifland and penguins. 29 jo I Ditto. With drizzling rain. Much ice. 2o 2r ! ^tt0* Frefh gale and foggy. Ice, pen y , * [ guins and whales. r W. N. W. a gentle breeze and gloomy 29 15I weather. Thule extending from S. S. L E. to S. by W. cS. W. a light breeze. Cape Montagu 29 J5£ Eaft five leagues. J N. N. E. Foggy. c Calm. Several penguins and fome I whales. j _ 0 — — fhowers. W. S. W. a ftrong gale and cloudy. 38 28 80! 38: 29 60 \ 37t 29 0 TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Resolution from Staten Land to the Cape of Good Hope, Time, in South. Longitude in Weft. Variat:o i. of the Compafs Well. a tb -t i Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ' 775 -Feb. 9 ] P. M. j Noon jo 12 M 15 16 P. M. 17 Noon 18 20 22 23 24 26 March 1 ? P. M. J Noon 2 P. M. 2 A. M. ( Noon 5 i 1 0 „ 58 27 58 I5 58 I9 57 57 57 H 36 37 55 26 54 20 54 25 54 25 54 8 54 26 55 10 54 26 52 52 50 3' 46 44 16 3c i 45 fc 43 2C j 14 i 42 2z 3|42 < II40 51 I2 49 IO 34 6 43 4 46 0 44 CM. 4 11 5 52 6 33 8 46 12 1 *2 59 18 42 22 1 24 21 26 31 28 37 33 2C 1 31 4^ 3° 5C j 29 5c i 26 4< I 2^ S1 " 2f) 2; > 24 4' ' 23 4; 0 ✓ 0 2 1 7 3 23 4 25 12 15 13 10 18 41 23 36 22 26 > 21 33 ; 50 48 34 -7 f > 3^ 36 344 35* 3^ 354 354-41 47 5° 59 6r 64 59 29 30 29 "ij 28 90 j 1 29 25| 2t* 95 29 55i 29 45 29 80 29 20 29 40 28 95 28 95 29 75 29 6$ 29 80 29 95 29 15 . ag 80 Calm. Snow fhowers. S. W. A frefli gale with fhowers. Wefterly. Light airs and fair. Several ice-iflands. S. by E. A frefli gale with much fnow. Southerly. A very ftrong gale with heavy falls of fnow. S. W. A frefli gale and fair. Calm. Southerly. A frefh gale with fnow. Wrefterly. A frefh gale and fair weather. N. E. A frefh gale with fleet and fnow. 1 Wefterly. A frefli gale and fair, in the L afternoon not the lead figns of land. \ S. W. A frefh breeze and gloomy ■ weather. [Northerly. With fnow and fleet. * Whales feen. \N. W. A frefh gale and fair. Iflands f of ice. Ditto. Squally with fhowers of rain. 1 Northerly A frefh gale. S Southerly. A gentle gale and fair wea-| ther. Variable. A frefh gale with fhowers. Wefterly. A frefli gale and very fqually. N. W. A frefh gale and cloudy. Ditto, Ditto, and thick hazy weather. Wefterly. A very frefh gale and fair. N. W. A gentle breeze. ! Variable. j Wefterly. A gentle breeze and fair. TABLE X* Continued. Route of the Resolution from Staten Land to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. Latitude in Sooth. Longitude in Weft. Variation of the Compaf> Welt. H tr O i w 0 s Winds, Weather, and Remarks. '77<;. March 13 14 16 17 3°S 51 37 *9 35 16 34 49 23 37 22 9 22 50 21 41 0 * 0 62 72 72* 69 3° 10 29 85 1 33 2o' 1 Light breeze wefterly. Eafterly. A frefli gale with fqualls. W. N. W. Squally unfettled weather. Little wind Eafterly. Depth of water fifty-fix fathoms. In the afternoon faw the land in the direction of N. N. E. The 22d at noon, anchored in Table-' Bay at the Cape of Good Hope. TABLE XI. Route of the Adventure from New Zealand to the Cape of Gooc Hope. Time. Latitude in South. Longitude in Eaft. ' Variation of the Compafs Eaft. H n 3 CO -1 0 3 1 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. «773-Dec. 23 Noon 25 28 30 3i ' 774-Jan. 2 4 5 C * * 42 26 44 38 47 5 49 37 50 47 51 37 54 s6 55 3° 56 27 0 * 175 41 178 12 179 22 179 29 Weft. 177 ii >7o 49 167 0 163 43 15 30 *5 60 54 56 48 48 46 46 4°J j JNortherly. Cape Pallifer N. Eafterly, t diftant feventeen leagues. { N. E, by N. A gentle breeze and hazy weather. 1 Variable. ' Northerly. A light breeze and hazy. » A great many feals and penguins about | the (Tup, alfo faw fome pieces of wood and fea-weed. 1 E. S. E. A ftrong gale and fqually with \ rain. 1 S. W. A frefh gale and clondy, J Wefterly. A frefli gale and hazy with ' rain. [ S. W. by W. A frefli gale and fair, A ' great fea from W. S. W. j S. S. W. A frefli gale with fome fqualb ' of rain. Great S. W. fwell. Vol. II. S i TABLE XL Continued. Route of the Adventure from New Zealand to the Cape of Good Hope. Time, '774- Jan. 756 57 11 12 in South. l6o 957 29153 54 5S 17 58 36 1458 48 16,58 50 134 26 Longitude in Weft. H7 23 19 59 24 2057 52 2l6o 9 59 3° 2459 35 25 60 1 2660 40 2861 45 61 49 61 20 29 31 Feb. 360 34 460 '20 6 60 3 8 9 10 11 12 759 16 58 32 57 20 6 55 6 28 >5 46 119 13 "4 37 113 12 in 26 105 16 101 97 89 84 Variation of the Compafs Eaft. 57 43 53 2c 48 25 47 r8 45 28 42 44 41 o 38 Id 36 4c 0 11 7 * 9 20 7 45 8 25 11 6 11 15 »3 12 ;22 48 24 30 26 6 24 30 19 30 19 20 15 36 10 70 38 38; 37 38 37 40 4' 4*1 41* 3« 43 43 4*. 39 40;-39 37* 41 37 37: 42f 40 40 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. i Ditto. A moderate breeze and cloudy. S. S. W. A frefh breeze. Saw feveral birds and fome whales. J Wefterly. A gentle breeze with fnow fhowers. Several ice-iflands in fight. S. W. A moderate breeze, Wefterly. A frefli breeze. Ditto.' PafTed a number of ice-iflands. N. W. by W. *Frefli gales with fhowers of rain. Northerly. Frefli gales and cloudy.. Variable. Southerly. A moderate breeze. Wefterly. I Northerly, A frefli gale and hazy, with ]■ fmall rain. Ditto. A frefli gale and foggy. \ Wefterly. A moderate breeze and clear 1 weather. N. by W. A frefh gale and hazy. Northerly. A moderate breeze and 1 hazy with rain. Wefterly. A frefh gale. N. N. W. N. E. by E. Light breezes and thick 1 foe*. Saw two ice-iflands and fome drift ice. I Southerly. A light breeze. (N. W. A frefli breeze and hazy with I rain. S. W. A light breeze and foggy, with fleet. C Wefterly. A moderate breeze. Saw a I penguin and feveral other birds. J Northerly. Saw feveral penguins and j and fnow peterels. I W. N. W. Frefli gales with rain. TABLE XL Continued. Route of the Adventure from New Zealand to the Cape of Good Hope. Time. '773- Feb. *3 '5 16 Latitudi in South. 54 5"^ 14 54 23 54 20 54 1854 16 1954 o Longitude in Well. 2053 15 22 53 1 March 2 23 53 2452 48 2553 M 2653 2s 2753 29 2853 54 54 4 353 i7 5 5° 48 649 5^ 748 30 847 35 41 48 1734 13 6 20 o 11 28 55 24 M 23 1 21 30 9 7 '3 8 o I Eaft O 3 6 10 11 5 58 11 35 4 S3 12 36 14 26 14 26 13 45 18 c Variation of the Compafs Eaft 32 2 Weft. I 1 5 6 9 11 4i 4° 40 39; 40 9* 37 640 040 3°38 2033 040 39 35 16 4536 37 42 16 32 17 15 21 c 41 54 697 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Ditto. Hazy. Saw a large ice-ifland. N. N. W. Light breeze and a thick fog. N. W. A frefh breeze and foggy. ■ S. S. E. Light airs and hazy. Northerly. Frefh breezes. S. E. Light breezes and foggy. \ S. W. Moderate breeze and cloudy, j Saw feveral ice-iflands. j Southerly. Firfl part fqually, latter t light breezes. Wefterly. A frefli breeze and thick hazy weather. Pafled fome drift ice and ice-iflands. Wefterly. A flrong gale. Pafled feve ral ice-iflands. j Ditto. A frefli gale with fnow fhowers Pafled feveral ice-iflands. S. E. by E. A moderate breeze. i| Weft. A frefli galev In the night faw £ the fouthern lights. 5 W. to N. N. E. A gentle breeze. Paf-C fed a number of ice-iflands. JWefterly. A moderate breeze with fnow fhowers. W. S. W. A flrong gale. PafTed feve ral ice-iflands. N. W. . A moderate gale. I W. N. W. A frefh gale. 5 Wefterly. Snow and fleet. Two large c ice- iflands in fight. I N. W. A frefli gale and fair. S. E. A lmht breeze. _ o 5 Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope, N. 52° c E.| diftant nine leagues. S f 2 A VOCABULARY OF THE LANGUAGE OF THE SOCIETY ISLES. DIRECTIONS FOR THE PRONUNCIATION of the VOCABULARY. AS all nations who are acquainted with the method of communicating their ideas by characters (which reprefent the found that conveys the idea), have fome particular method of managing or pronouncing the founds reprefented by fuch characters, this forms a very efTential article in the conflitution of the language of any particular nation, and muft therefore be understood before we can make any progrefs in learning, or be able to converfe in it. But as this is very complex and tedious to a beginner, by reafon of the great variety of powers the characters or letters are endued with under different circumflances, it would feem neceffary, at leafl: in languages which have never before ap. peared in writing, to leflen the number of thefe varieties, by re-flraining the different founds, and always reprefenting the fame fimples ones by the fame character; and this is no lefs neceflary in the Englifh than any other language, as this variety of powers is very frequent, and without being taken notice of in the following Vocabulary, might render it entirely unintelligible. As the vowels are the regulation of all founds, it is thefe only that need be noticed,, and the powers allotted to each of thefe in the Vocabulary is fub-joined. A iix A in the Englifti language is ufed to reprefent two different fimple founds, as in the word Arabia, where the firfl: and laft have a different power from the fecond. In the Vocabulary this letter muft always have the power, or be pronounced like the firft and laft in Arabia. The other power or found of the fecond a% is always reprefented in the Vocabulary by# and /, printed in Italics thus,**/. E Has likewife two powers, or it is ufed to reprefent two Ample founds, as in the words Eloquence, Bred, Led, ccc. and it may be faid to have a third power, as in the words Then, When, Sec. In the firft cafe, this letter is only ufed at the beginning of words, and wherever it is met with in any other place in the words of the Vocabulary, it is ufed as in the fecond cafe : but never as in the third example ; for this power or found is every where ex-prefled by the a and i before-mentioned, printed in Italics, 1 is ufed to exprefs different fimple founds, as in the words Indolence, Iron, and Imitation. In the Vocabulary it is never ufed as in the firft cafe, but in the middle of words; it is never ufed as in the fecond example, for that found is always reprefented by y, nor is it ufed as in the laft cafe, that found being always reprefented by two es, printed in Italics in this manner, ee. O never alters in the pronunciation, i, e. in this Vocabulary, of a a fimple found, but is often ufed in this manner, co, and founds as in Good, Stood, 6cc. U alters, or is ufed to exprefs different fimple founds, as in Unity, or Umbrage. Here the letters e and ut printed in Italics eu, are nfed to exprefs its power as in the firft example, and it always jetains the fecond power, wherever it is met with. T is ufed to exprefs different founds, as in My, By, &c. ccc. and in Daily, Fairly, 6cc. Wherever it is met with in the middle or end (i, e. any where but at the beginning) of a word, it is to be ufed as in the firft example ; but is never to be found as in the fecond, for that found or power is always reprefented by the Italic letter e. It has alfo a third power, as in the words Yes, Yell, 6cc. which is retained every where in the Vocabulary, at leaft at the beginning of word% or when it goes before another vowel., unlefs directed to be founded feparately by a mark over it, as thus, ya. Unlefs in a few inftances, thefe powers of the vowels are ufed throughout the Vocabulary; but, to make the pronunciation ftill lefs liable to change or variation, a few marks are added to the words as follows: This mark as oa, means that thefe letters are to be expreffed fingly. The letters in Italic, as ee or oo9 make but one fimple found. When a particular ftrefs is laid on any part of a word in the pronunciation, an accent is placed over that letter where it begins, or rather between that and the preceding one. It often happens that a word is compounded as it were of two, or in fome cafes the fame word or fyllable is repeated. In thefe circumftances, a comma is placed under them at this divifion, where a reft or fmall fpace of time is left before you proceed to pronounce the other part, but it muft not be imagined that this is a full ftop. Vol. II. Examples 322 DIRECTIONS, &c. Examples in all thefe Cafes, Roa, - Great, long, diftant. E'rama, - - Five. Ry'po eea, - - Fog or mifl* E'hwra, - ¥0 invert, or turn up fide down* Par____) i , • » ? j J r rttoo y, by which name they round the wain, or thrown over the \ Jr u L n . J ' ( aijo call a white Jbfrt* JJjoulders, - - - A Cloth-beater, or an oblong fquare piece ' of wood grooved, and ufed in making >To'aafc cloth, - - The Cloth-plant, a fort of Mulberry-tree,, Earate. A Cloud, - A Cock, - - - Cock, the cock claps his wings, A Cock-roach, A Cocoa-nut, - The fibrous hufk of a Cocoa-nut, Cocoa-nut oil, Cocoa leaves, - Coition, - - - The fenfe of Co\&, A Comb, -Company, acquaintance, goffips, Compliance with a requejl, confent, Computation, or counting of numbers, A Concubine, -Confufednefs, without order, E'ao, f. EW. Moa,e't6a. Te Moa Patv, paee. Potte potte. A'ree. Pwrflo'waha, f. Vooxoo. E'rede,vae. E,ne'hao0. E'y. Ma'rrcde. Pa'horo, f. Pa'herre. T^'ya. Mad^ho'why. Ta'tcw. Wa'h^ne,Moebo,f.EtooWa, E'vah^a. Madoo,ho'why. Confent, or approbation, Contempt, a name of contempt given to al . . ./ . j r JWah^ne,poo'ha. maid, or unmarried woman, \ ? Converfation, - - Parao^maro, f. Para'paraew* Q'hooe. Egoo, f. Eivwera, Taha'rcY. Taura. Boe. A fort of Convolvulus, or bind weed, common in the iflands, Cook'd, drefsd; not raw, To cool one with a fan, Cordage of any kind. The Core of an apple, A Cork, orjhpper of a bottle or gourdjhell, Ora'hwe. A Corner, - - E'pecho. Covering, the covering of a fifths gills, Pe^'eya. Covetoufnefs, or rather one not inclined] > Pee, pee re to give, - - J A Cough, - Ma're. To court, wooe a woman, - - Ta'raro. Coynefs in a woman, - ■ No'noa. A Crab, - Pappa. Crab, a large land crab that climbs the 1 cocoa-nut trees for fruit, A Crack, cleft, orfiffure, Crammed, lumbered, crowded, -The Cramp, A Cray-fifh, -T? creep on the hands andfeet, Crimfon colour, -Cripple, lame, -Crooked, not ftraight, To crow as a cock, -The Crown of the head, To cry, or fl:ed tears, -A brown Cuckoo, with black bars and a long tail, frequent in the ifles, - oowa. Ooa, p^a'pe, f. Ehotto, Emo'too too. O'oora. Ene'ai. Oora oon. Tei'tei. Ooo'peeo, A'a ooa.. Too'pooe* Ta.ee. > Ara'werewa, Uu 2 To cufT, or flap the chops, - - E'parop. Curlew, a fmall curlew or whimbrelfound'j about the rivulets, J Cut, or divided, - Motoo. To cut the hair with fciflfars, - O'tee. D. A Dance, Darknefs, To darn, A Daughter, Day, or day-light, Day-break, Day, to-day, Dead, A natural Death, Deafnefs Decrepit, Deep-water, - - - A Denial, or refufal, To defire, or wijh for a thing, A Devil, or evil fpirit, Dew, - - - A Diarrhcea, or loofenefs, To dip meat in fait water in/lead of fait ? r rr n ) fFWwo. (an Indian cuflomJ, - ) Dirt, or naflinefs of any kind, - E'repo. Difapprobation, - Ehoonoa. A Difeafe, where the head cannot he heldl up, perhaps the palfy, - - y ^* H^va. Eoze'ree, f. Vooo'tee. O'ono. Ma'hc/ne. Mara'marama^.A'o^f.A'acar. Oota'taW/ta, Aoo'nai. Matte roa. Matte noa. Ta'r^, tooree. Epoo'tooa. Mona'. ElWnoa. Eooee. E'tee. Ahe'acx?. Hawa, hawa. To - Taee'va. To difengage, untie-or loofen, - - TLaoo'wai. Difhonefly, - Jlee'a. Difpleafed, to be difpleafed, vexed, or in the dumps, DifTatisfacftion, to grumble ^ or be difjatisfied, FaAteera. there is no more, - J A Door, - - Oo'bootz. Double, or when two things are in one;") * ;// > Tau'rooa. as a double canoe, \ Faee'ta. AtVha. MaWna. ILo'hoo. ILho'poo. Coree. Adoo'a. AWna. Down, or foft hair, To draw a bow, •» To draw, or drag a thing by force, Dread, or fear, Drefs'd, or cook'd, not raw, Ahead Drefs, ufed at funerals, To drefs, or put on the cloaths, To drink, Drop, a fmgle drop of any liquid, To drop, or leak, E'waou. Etea. Era'ko. Mattou. EeW Pa'ra^. Eu,hau'hooo t' Ahoo. Aee'noo. O^ata'hai. JLlo'tooroo, f. E'tooroo. Drops, as drops of rain, Drowned, A Drum, Dry, not wet, A Duck, A Dug, teat, or nipple, Dumbnefs, To'potta. Parre'mo. Pa'hw. Oo'maro. Mora* Eoo. E'faa. E. The Ear, -The injide of the Far, An Ear-ring, -To eat, or chew, An Echinus, or fea egg^ Echo, -An egg of a bird, A white Egg-bird Eight, The Elbow, - Empty, - - - An Enemy, - Entire, whole, not broke\ Equal, - Erect, upright, A Euphorbium tree, with white flowers, The Evening, Excrement, - To expand, or fpread out cloth, &c. Ta'rcva, Ta'toor^. Poe note tar^a. E'y, f. Maa. Heawy. T00O. Ehooero te Manoc\ Pee'ry. A'waroo. Too'xee. Ooata'a6,f. TataW. Taata'e. Eta, Eta. Oohy'teL Eteo. Te'too^. Oohoi'hoi. Too'ty. Ho'hora. The Eye, - - - Matta. The Eye-brow, and eye-lid, - Tcoa,matta. F. The Face, To hide or hold the Face away, as when 1 afiamed, - - J Facetious, merry, Fainting, to faint, To fall down. E'mot^a. Falfe, not true, - - A Fan, or to fan the face, or cool it, - To fart, or a fart, Fat, full of 'flefi, lufly, The Fat of meat, A Father,. — A ^Mather, - Fatigued, tired, Fear, - A Feather, or quill, Red Feathers, Feeblenefs, weaknefs, The fenfe of Feeling, To feel, - - A young clever dexterous Fellow, or boy, The Female kind of any animal. The Fern-tree, - Fertile land, — Fetch, go fetch ity V&ree'wai, Faatta atta. Mo^,mo'my. Topa* Ha'warre. Taha'rtv. Ehoo. P^a. Ma^. Medofla tanne. Tanne, te hoa. E'heieu, f. Faea. Mattou. Hooroo,hooroo manoo. Ora,hooroo te manew. Fara'ra, f. Tooro'rtY. Fa'fa. Tear'ro. Te'my de pa'ar^ E'ooha, Ma'mooo. Fen^a,maa» Atee. Few in number, Eote. To fight, E'neotto. A Fillip, with the fingers, Epatta. The Fin of a fifh, Tirra. To finifh, or make an end, Eiote. A Finger, E'rtvma. Fire, - Ea'hai. A flying Fifh, Mara'ra. A green flat Fifh, YLeumt. A yellow flat Fifh, (Vmorehe. A flat green and red Fifh, Vai'ou. The cuckold Fifh, Etata. A Fifh, Eya. Fi filing wallfor hauling the feine at the firfl point, - A Fiftipot, - - - E'wha. A long Fifhing 'rod of Bamboo, fifed to catch bonettoes, &c. A FirTure, or crack, - - Motoo. Fift, to open the fifl, - - Ma'hora. Fift, fir iking with the fift in dancing, A'mo to. A file Flapper, or to flap flies, - DahcVere c'reup Flatnefs, applied to anofe,or avefjelbroad andflat alfo afprea ding flat topt tree, A red Flefh mark, - - EtVda. To float on the face of the water, - Pa'noo. The Flower of a plant, - ' - Poaa. Open Flowers, - • Teezttt'oo wa. Flowers, white odoriferous flowers, ufed 1 , . •* J-T^arre tariwa. as ornaments in the ears,- ) Ma'k^ra. Flown, it isflown or gone away, - Ma'hawta. A Flute, - - - W^wo. A black Fly-catcher, a bird fo called, O'mamao. A Fly, - Pwre'hwa. To fly, as a bird, - - EWre. Fog, or mift, - - Ry'poeea. To fold up a thing, as cloth, &C. - He'fetw. A fool, fcoundrel, or other epithet of J . ^. {■TaWna. contempt, - - J The Foot, or file of the foot, - Tapooy. The Forehead, - E'ry. Forgot, or loft in memory, • Oo'aro. Foul, dirty, nafiy, - - Erepo. yfFowl, - Moa. Four, - - ** E'ha. The Frapping of a flute. - Ahea. Freckles, - * • Taina./ Frefli, not fait, - - Eanna,anna. Friction, rubbing, - - E'oo ee. Friend, a method of addrefting a Jlranger, Ehoa. A particular Friend, or thefalutation to) um, . - - r'aPatte- To friflc, to wanton, to play, - • E'hanne. From there, - - No,mra, f. No,r« myfelf \fl perfon fmgular, The lower Jaw, Idle, or lazy, Jealoufy in a woman, • Ignorance, fupidity, Ill-natured, crofs, An Image of a human figure, Imps, the young imps, Immature, unripe, as unripe fruit, Immediately, inflantly, ' Wou 2Mee. E'ta. T^py. Ta'bwne,f Fateeno,f, HtVhy. Wdva'ta. Oore, e'^ore, E'tee. Teo'he. Poo. To'hyto. Immenfe, Immenfe, very large, Inceft, or incefluous, Indigent, poor, neceffitous, Indolence, lazinefs, Induftry, oppofed to idtenefs, Inhofpitable, ungenerous, To inform, - A fort of Ink, ufed to punctuate, An inquifitive tattling woman, To interrogate, or afk quejlions, To invert, or turn up fide down, • An Iflet, - The Itch, an itching of any fort, To jump, or leap, K. Keep it to yourfelf, The Kernel of a cocoa-nut, To kick with the foot, The Kidneys, Killed, dead, - To kindle, or light up, A King, A King-fimer, the bird fo called, To kifs, - Kite, a boys play-kite, The Knee, - To kneel, - A Knot, - - 3 Roa. Ta'wytte. Tet,tee. Tee'py. Taee'a. Fee'peere. E'whae. E'rahoo. Maheine Opatai^hu. Faeete. E'hoora,tela'why. Mo'too. Myro. Maho»ta, f. Araire. Vaihee'o. Emo'tf^a. Ta'hee. Fooa'hooa. Matte. Emaa. Earif,da'htf/. E'rooro. E'hoee. O'omo. E'toorar. Too'tooree. Ta'pona, j A double A double Knot, Va'hodw. The female Knot formed on the upper 1 part of the garment, and on one fide, J To know, or under/land, - Eetc, The Knuckle, or joint of the fingers, Tee,po8» L. To labour, or work, - A Ladder, - - - A Lagoon, Lame, cripple, - A Lance, or fpear, "Land in general, a country, Language, fpeech, words, Language, ufed when dancing, Large, great, not fmall, Largenefs, when applied to a country, &c, To laugh, - Lazinefs, - - - Lean, the lean of meat, Lean, fiender, not fiefiy, To leap, - Leave it behind, let it remain, To leave, - The Leg, - Legs, my legs ache, or are tired, A Liar, - To He down, or along, to refi one's felf, - To lift a thing up, Bay Light, -. - Erica. Era'a, f. E'ara. EwhaWna, f. EUWna. Tei'tei. Tao. Fe'ncsa, f. Whe'nwa. Pa'raow. Timoro'd^jte'Timoro'da^ Ara'hrf/. , Nooe. Atta. Tee'py. Aeo. Too'hai. Ma'hoata, f. A'rere, 'Vameo. TL'wheeoo. A'wy. AWa. Taata,ha'warre. . Ete'raha, f. Te'poo* Era'wrf/. Mara'marama. Light* Light, or fire of the great people, Light, or fire of the common people, Light, to light or kindle the fire, Light, not heavy, Lightning, TheYjps, - - - Little, fmall, A Lizard, Loath fome, naufeous, A fort of Lobfter, frequent in the To loll about, or be lazy, To loll out the tongue, To look for a thing that is lofi, A Looking-glafs, Loofe, not fecure, A Loofenefs, or purging, To love, - A Lover, courtier, uoooer, A Loufe, Low, not high, as low land, &c. The Lungs, - - -Lu(iy,fat,fulloffieJh, T<3«to/»pipa. - NtVao.papa. A'toonoo t' EtVwera. Ma'ma. Oo'wtf/ra. Ootoo. Eels. 'Mo'o. E,a'wawa. ifles, Tee'onai. Tee'py. Ewha'toroa t' Arere. Tupoonee. H^o'^'otta. Aoo'weewa.. Hawa/hawa. Ehe'narw. ErWnoa. Oo'too. Hea,hca, f. Papoo, f. Eft-'oa. T^too,arapoa. Oo'p^a. M. Maggots, - A Maid, or young woman, To make the bed, The Male of any animal, male kind, A Man, - An ill difpofed, or infincere Man, IL'hoohoo. Too'neea. Ho'hora, te Moe'ya. E'tba. Taata, f. Taane. Ta'atajham'anmw. A Man - Otta'ha. | J Wo'rou,wo'rou, f. manoo, y manoo. - E'ee'xee. Fanow'nou. E'vanne. Moe'a. A rough fort of Mat, cut h to admit the head, A Maft of a flip or boat, Mature, ripe as ripe fruit, Me, /, A Meafure, To meafure a thing, To meet one, To melt, or difjblve a thing, as greafe, &c* Too'tooe. The Middle or midft of a thing, Teropoo. Midnight, O'tcwrajtWpo. To mince, or cut fmall, E'potfta. Mine, it is mine, or belongs to me, NoW. To mifs, not to hit a thing, CVhappa. Mi ft, or fog, - Ry'po^a. To mix things together, A'po Pofl'rou, Teexz. Para, f. Pe. Wou, f.Mee. E'a. Fa'Me. Ewharidde, Tomorrow, - Bo'bo, f, A,Bo'bo. The day after ta-morrow, A'bo'bo d Ta paott* The Mouth, - Eva'ha. To open the Mouth, Ha'mam ma. A Multitude, or vaft number, Wo'row, wo'ro». Murdered, killed, ** Matte, f. Matte rea. A Murderer, - Taata tcia. A Mufcle-fhell, Mufic of any kind, - H^va. A Mu fleet, piftok orfire-arm of any land, Voo,poa, f. Poo, Mute, filent, f Fatebwa. To mutter, orftammer. E'whaow. N. The Nail of the fingers, * - Aee'w. A Nail of iron, - - Euro. Naked, u e. With the clothes off, undreffed, Ta'turra. The \ The Name of a thing, Narrow, flrait, not wide, Nafty, dirty, not clean, ^Native, - The Neck, - Needles, - Afi/hing Net, - * New, young, found, - - Nigh, - Night, - - To-Night, or to-day at night, Black Nlght-fiade, Nine, - The Nipple of the breafl, ^4 Nit, - No, a negation. To nod, - Noify, chattering, impertinent, Noon, - The Noftrils, Numeration, or counting of numbers, A cocoa Nut, A large comprejfed Nut, that tajles like chef nuts when roafted, Eee'oa. Prtre,pftre. E, repo. Taata'toobo* Nee. Narreeda. Oo'pak. Hou. Poto, f. Whatta'ta. Po, f. E W A'oone te' Po. Oporo. A'eevz. Woo. Eriha. C 1 Ay'ma, 1 Y^/ha, 4 AWre, I 4 Aee, sYehad"a. A'touou. Emoo. Wawa'tea. Popo'heo. TaW. Aree. | Eeehee. O. Obefity, corpulence, - - Oo'p^a. The Ocean, - Ty, f. Meede. Y y 2 Odoriferous, No'noa. noe. Odoriferous, fweet fuelled, "Perfumed Oil they put on the hair, An Ointment plai/ler, or any thing that heals or relates to medicine, Old, One, - Open, clear, fpacious, Open, not /hut, To open, - Oppofite to, or over again/l, Order, in good order, regular, without confufion, Ornament, any ornament for the ear, Burial Ornaments, viz. Nine noits/luck in the ground, An Orphan, - Out, not in, not withint The Ou tilde of a thing, An Oven in the ground, Over, befides, more than the quantity, To overcome, or conquer, To overturn, or over fet, An Owner, - A large fpecies of Oyfter, The large rough Oyfter, or Spondylus, Mo'- E ra paw. Ora'wheva. A'tahai. Ea'tea. FeW. Te'haddoo. Watoo'wrWtte. Wara'wara. Tooee ta'rm. - Ma'ray Wharre. (Vhoppe, poo'tf/a. TV/we'ho. Ooi'pee, H'oomoo. Te'harra. B'mafema, Eha'pao^. E'what'oo. I'teez. Paho'oa; p. The Paddle of a canoe, or to paddle, E'hoe. To paddle a canoe s head to the right, Wha'tea. To paddle a canoes head to the left, Wemma. Pain, or forenefs, the fenfe of pain, - Ma'my. A Pair or two of any thing together, - Ano'ho. The Palate, - E'ta'nea. The Palm of the hand, - - ApwWma. To pant, or breath quickly, - Oo'pou'poUjtea'ho. Pap, or child's food, - - Mamma. A Parent, - Me'dooa. A fmall blue Parroquet, - - E'veenee. A green Parroquet, with a redforehead, E'a'a. The Part below the tongue, - Eta'raro. A Partition, divifion of fcreen, - ParwW. A Pafs, orftrait, - - E,aree'ea. A fermented Fade, of bread, fruit, and") Al > Ma hee, others, - \ A Path, or road, - - Eci'ra. The Pavement before a houfe or hut, Pye,pye, A Pearl, - - - Poe. The Peduncle, andfialk of a plant, - A'm'aa, f. E'atta. To peel, or take thefkin off a cocoa-nut, &c. A'tee, f. E'atee. Peeled, it is peeled, - - Me'at^. A Peg to hang a bag on, - - . Te'aw. A Pgpper-plant, from the root of which") they prepare an inebriating liquor, \ w Perhaps, it may be fo, E'pa'ha. Perfons of dijlinclion, - - PatOo'nehe. A Petticoat of plantane leaves, - Arou'mtfia'a. Petty, fmall, trifling, oppofed to Nooe, Kee. A Phyiician, or perfon who attends thefick, Taata no E'rapaos?. Pick, to pick or chafe, A large wood Pigeon,. A fmall green and white Pigeon, Elw te mat my tf. Eroope. 0of00p&. A fmall black and while Pigeon, with ) . j > Oooowy'dcroo. purple wings, - J * A Pimple, To pinch with the fingers, A Plain, or fiat, Plane, fmooth, A Plant of any kind, A fmall Plant, The fruit of the Plantane-tree, Horfe Plan tan es, Ooma, E'p^ho. PaWa. O'mo. Era'bo. Maiee'a, £ Maya. Eai'ee. Pleafed, good humoured, not crofs or furly, Marw. Pluck it up, To pluck hairs from the beard, 7 0 plunge a thing in the water, The Point of any thing, Poifon, bitter, AVoW, Poor, indigent, not rich, A bottle-nofed Porpoife, Sweet Potatoes, To pour out any liquidfubjlance, Pregnant, with young, Areete, Hoohootce. Etov'tohee. Oe,be, or Oi,oi. Awa,awa, Oordhoo. Tee'tee. E'om. Oo'marra. Mz'nee, Waha'poo. To prefs, or fqueeze the legs gently withl ; the hand, when tired or paind, - j ° mee' Eoma te ta'rcia. Prick, to prick up the ears, A Prieft, Ta'bflm. Prone, or face downwards, - - T^'opa. A fort of Pudding, made of fruits, oil, &c. Vo'po'ee, Pumpkin^, - A'hooa. To puke, or vomit, - - E'awa, f. e'rw'y. Pure, clear, - E'oo'ee. A Purging, or loofenefs, - - Hawa,hawa, To purfue, and cat-ch a perfon who has done fome mifchief, To pufh a thing with the hand, - Too'rzee. Put it up,. or away, *■ - Orno, ErootEroo9 f. Eha'ro^ Quicknefs, brifknefs, ft - E'tirre. To walk quickly, - - HarreWzna. Quietnefs, filence,. a fiknt or feemingly 1 .7 i*ri^ r~ (Falle'btfca; thoughtful perfon, ) A Quiver for holding arrows, - 'P^ha. R. A fmall black Rail, with red eye r, - Ma/'ho.-, A fmall black Rail, fpotted and burred^) with white, - - 3 Rain, - EW. A Rainbow, - - - E'nwa. Raft, a raft of bamboo, - - Mfrfio'fr Rank, flrong, urinous, - Ewao wao. Rafp, (y water from a canoe, E'tata. To fcrape a thing, Oo'zOQ. To fcratch with the fingers, Era'raw. Scratched, a fcratched metal, &c. Pahwre'hwre. The Sea-cat, a fifh fo called, P, Silence, - «■ • Fatte'booa. Similar, or alike, - Oowhya'da. To fink, - A'tomo. A Sifter, Too'hfine. To fit down, - A'noho. To fit crofs-legged, - Tee'vy. Six, - A'Honoo. A Skate-fifh, - E'wha^. The Skin, - £t/ree. The Sky, - E'ra^r. To fleep, - Moe. The long Sleep, or */tvtf£, - ■ Moe roa. To fleep, fitting, ilPi Too'roore,m6e. A Sling, E'ma. Slow, - Marra,marrc;a, f. Fata. Small, - Eete. Thefenfe of Smelling, - Fata'too, f. Ootoo,too,too. Smell it, - * - Ho/na. To fmell, Ahe'o/. Smoke, E'oora. Smooth, Pa'ya. Smutting the face with charcoalfor fit- ] In / neral ceremonies, J Bap para. A fea Snake, that has alternate rings of j j PoolWaroo. a white and black colour, To fnatch a thing hafiily, - E'hj/roo. Sneezing, MaclW#*t Snipe, a bird refembling a fnipe, of a \ ^Tee'tee* black and brown colour, j Snot, - 'Hoope. Z z j» Sobcrnefs, • Teiteifa* Eparw'parw, Maroo. TapWy. My'de. iWnoa. Heeva. O'pai. Ma'may. Pa'^na. Ewhae'ono. Paraou. Sobernefs, fobriety, fiber, not given to drunkennefs, To foften, -Softnefs, that is not hard. The Sole of the foot, , A Son, - A Son-in-law, - - - A Song, -A Sore or ulcer, Sorenefs, or pain, Sound, any found that fir ikes the ear, A Span, - To fpeak, - - - Speak ; he fpeaks not from the heart, bis llfotttc ooXoo te parou no word are only on his lips, - ) nona. A Spear or lance, - - Tao. To (pill, - - - Emare. To fpir, - Too'twa. To fpread, or to expand a thing, as~) Lu cl £ Ho bora. cloth, &c. - - 3 To fqueeze or prefs hard, - - Ne/ne^. To fqueeze or prefs gently with the hand, Roro'mre, Squint-oW, - Matta'areva, A fighting Stage in a boat, - ■ E'tooXee. To ftamp with the feet, to trample on a thing, - Stand up, - A Star, - - ^Star-fifh, To ft art le, as when one dreams, Stay, Tata'hy. Atearenona. E'fahoo, f. Hwettoo. Eve'r^. Wa'hee, te'dirre. Stay, or wait a little, * _ A'r^a, f. Ara?'ana. To flea), - - 'Woreedo. Steep, asfteep rocks or cliffs, - Mato. A walking Stick, - Tame. $unkir\g,illfmelled,asfinking water, &c. Na'mcoa, f. Nee'neeo. Fou, fou, Pe ero,peero. 'Parana. Owhay. Pai'noo. Stink, to fiink or fmell ill, To ftink as excrement, The Stomach, -A Stone, - A polified Stone, ufe to beat victuals into a pajle, - -Stones, upright fones, which fand on~i the faved area before huts, - J Too We. A fmall Stool, to lay the head on when afleep, -Stool, to go to fool, To flop, - - The Stopper of a quiver, A Storm of wind, rain, thunder, &c. Strait, narrow, not wide, Striking, hollowftriking in dancing, -The String of a quiver, - . - Strong, as a frong man, Struck, Stupidity, ignorance, To fuck as a child, Sugar cane, Suicide, -Sultry, or hot air, The Sun, The meridian Sun, 7 •Papa, f. Papa,rwa. Teeiee'o. A'too. Ponau. Tarooa. Pftre,peere. Aptr. E'aha. O cmara. A'bwk. W^a'h/. Ote,ote. E'To, f. Too. Euha 'now. Vohee'w. Mahanna, f. Era. Tei'neea te Mahanna. , Supine,, Supine, lying, - - Fatecraha. Surfofthe fea, - - Horo'wai. An interj'eelion of Surprize, or admiration, AllaheueeW. To furround, - - A'bwne. To fwallow, - - Horo'nw. The Sweat of the body, or tofweat, - E'hou, (m Ehou hou. A fweet tafte, - Mona. Swell of the fea, - - EW T. A Tail, ... A Tail of a bird, To take a friend by the hand, To take off, or iintoofc, To take care of the victuals, To talk, or convexfie, Thefenfe of tailing, A Tetotum, or whirligig, To tear a thing, A Teat or Dug, The Teeth, - - - Ten, - To tend, or feed hogs, Tenants, - A black Tern, with a whitifh head, There, - - They, them, cr theirs, Thicknefs, applied to fiolid bodies, Thick, as thick cloth, &c. Ero. E'hoppa. Etoo'yaw. Eve'vette. Ewhaapoo te maa. Paraou. Tama'ta. E'piroa. Ha'hy, f. Whatte. E'oo. Flneeheeo. A'hooroo. Ewha^ te Boa. Afeu'hau* Oee'o. Te'raee. To'tawtf. Meoo'meoo, Tc<0e,too'e. Thick, muddy % - Thine, it is yours, or belongs to you, - Thiift, -Thoughts, - An appearance of though tfulncfs, Three, - - The Throat, - To throw, or heave a thing, To throw a thing away, To throw a ball, - - To throw a lance, - Throw, fliall I throw it, Throwing in dancing, The Thumb, - - Thunder, - Tickle, to tickle a perfon, A Tide, or current, To tie a knot, - Time, a fpace of time, from 6 to to at night, -Time, a little time, a fmall fpace, Time, a long time, a great while, A Tittle belonging to a woman of rank, A Toe of the foot, A Tomb, -The Tongue, - - A Tortoife, -Touching, -Tough, as tough meat, (sfc. A Town, - To trample with the fot, - -t Eworerw, f. E'worepo. No oe. W'alWy. Paraow, no te o'poo, Fate'bwa. Torw, Ara'poa. Taora. Harre'wai. Ama'hwa. Evara'towha. TaureVa. Hoe'aire. E'nmia,erahaL Pa't^re. My'n^na, AW. jo'twe.tee'po. Popo'eunoo. Ta'moo. E'tapayVw.. Ma'n^o. Tw,pap'pou. E'rero. E'honw. Fa'fa. AhwWc, E'farre pootoo pootoo. Tata'he, f. Ta'ta'hy. A Tree, > A Tree, - - E'rho. A Tree, from which they make clubs,1 fpears, £fr. V To tremble, or fiudder with cold, -Trembli ng, flaking, To trip one up in wr eft ling, A Tropic-bird, Truth, - - - To tumble, - - - A Turban, To turn, or turned, To turn about, as in walking backwards and forwards, Twins, twin children, To twift a rope, Two, - Toa ( Ersto Ooa'titte, f. Eta. Aoz/dou. Me'hae. MarWroa. Eva^'roa, f. Parana, mou. Pcwta'heite. E'tae. Oca'hoe. >Hoodcepeepc. Ma'hea. Tawee'ree. E'Rwa, U. An Ulcer, or fore, Under, below, low down, Under fail, -To underftand, To undrefs, or take off the cloaths. An unmarried perfon, Lin ripe, as unripe fruit, &c. O'pai. Oraro. Pou'pouee, Ee'te. Ta'turra. Aree'oi. Voo. V. Luminous Vapour, Vafial, or fubjett, Epao. Manna'hwna. ■ Vaft, Vafl, - ArajW, f. Mtf/,araW. The Veins that run under the Jkin, - E'wowa. Venus, - Tou'rsoa. VerTel, any hollow vcfifel, as cups of . r, Ai'boo* nuts, &c. - VerTel, a hollow vejfel in which they pre- 7 . , . . (Oo'mutte. pare an inebriating liquor, - j To vomit, - EiWy. W. Wad, tow, fibres like hemp, Wait, ft ay a little, Wake, awake, To walk out, To walk backwards andforwards, Tz'mou. Areeana. Arra arra, f. Era. AvouWa. Hoo&'peepc, A Warrior, fioIdler, or rather a man-killer, Taatatoa. Warmth, heat, A Wart, To wafh, as to wajh cloth in water, To watch, - - - Water, - Water-crefTes, Wc, both of us, A Wedge, To weep, or cry, - Well recovered, or well efcaped, Well, // is well, charming fine, What, what's that, Vol. II. A a a Mahannajhanna, Toria. Mare. % E'teae. A'vy. Pa'toa. Taw a, f. Arw'rwa. Era'rW. Ha noa,a,ta^. Woura, f. woo,ara. Pwro'too. E'hara, E'ha'rya, f. Ye'ha^a, expreff'ed inquifitivcly. What What do you call that, what is the name of it, - - When, at what time, -Where is it, - - - Whet, to whet or fiarp a thing. To whittle, ... j Owy te zee'oa, W'heea Te'he'j. El wee, Ma'pw. Whittling, a method of ivhiflling to calH < Epow,maa. the people to meals, To whifyzv fecretly, as in backbiting, &c. Ohe'mw. Who is that, what is he called, - Owy,tanna, f. Owy,nan Whole, the whole, not a part of a thing, E'ta,e'tea, f. A'maw. Wide, not fir ait or narrow, A Widow, - Wife, my wife, - - - The Wind, The fouth eafl Wind, ... A Window, - - The Wing of a bird, To wink, - To wipe a thing clean, Whifh, a whijh to one whofneczes, Within fide, - A Woman, - - - A married Woman, Woman, fie is a married woman, fie has got another hufband, Won't, 1 ivont do it, Wood of any kind, -A Wound, A Wrettler, Wrinkled in the face, Whatta,whatta. Wa'twneea. Ma'hf/ne. Mattay. Mattaee. Maltiee ou'panee* Ecz'ou. E'amctf,amw. Ho'roft*. EvaWa t Eatwa. Tee'ro to. Vv'a'hr/ne. Wa'ht'/ne mou. ► Terra,tanne. 'Aeeoo* expreffed angrih K'rao. 0$Kee, Mouna. Mceo,nieeo, The Wrift, - Mo'moa. A Wry-neck, - - Na'na. Y. '10 yawn, Ha' mamma. Yellow colour, - He'appa. Yes, - - - Ay, Cat, Yeflerday, - Ninna'hay. Yeflernight, - Ere'po. York ifland, - Z&'meo. You, Oe. Young, as a young animal of any kind, Pee'nait, A a a 2 4 • A TABLE, exhibiting, at one View, SPECIMENS of different LANGUAGES fpokcn in the South Set, from Eafter I/land, weflward to New Caledonia, as obferved in the Voyage. A Bird, A U0Wy Bread fruity A Can:e. ■Clothy « Cocoa-nuty ■ fl drink, -fhe Eye, % - ^* flW, ■4H0gy - & ^//, ' 0 lough, A Man, fhe Navel. Noy Plantains, I*un£iuraticm, Rain, Sugar-cane, fhe Teeth, Water, fo xvhijile, A Woman, Yams, Or, One, YlVOy Three, *W, Fivey Six, Seven, fght, Nine, fen. Otaheite. f 'Mnnoo, E'fanna, Ooxco, E'viia, 'Ahoo, 'Ar**, 'Aynoo, • Malta, Ta'rwa, '£ya, Moa, }'/r«ma, O/po, 'Boa,. Ww, f. OH, 'Atta, Taata, 1 'Ayma, 2Ytf*'ha, 3A'o«re, 'M^/ya, Ta'tow, E'ooa, E'To, E'n*th**o, - A'vay, 'Mapso, Wa'h*/ne, E'oohc, Oe, A'Tahay, E'Rooa, 'TOXOOy - A'Haa, E'R**ma, A'ono, A'Hmoo, A'war<50, -A'**va, A'h;oro?, 'Man?*, 'Wagc;a, A'hw," A**noo, Matta, Ta'r»vaD, £Vka, Moa, 'R**ma, Ao'po, Papa ? 'Eih, ' Maya, 4 Footfe, '0;a, To, 'N**ho, E'vy, 0?he, Katta'ha**, 'Rooa, 'Toroo, 'Hia, f. Fiia, 'K«ma, 'Honoo, 'f.L'*doo, 'Varo?, Htvva, 37;* Marquefas I/les. Nlaiee, E'viia, 'Aho7, (. A'btfMfi, 'Aeeuoo, 'Matta, f. Matta**a, B5oa'**na, Moa, Eoo'my, 'Wow, -T**te, P**to, f. P**toV, Maieea, E'patoo, E'n**ho, Ve'h**ne, Oe, Atta'ha**, A'ooa, A'totoo, A'faa, A«ma, A'ono, A'wh**too, A'wao?, A'**va, 77;* 7/W Amflerdam. 'Man 'Fauna, Babba'Ianga, 'Eeco, 'Matta, E'r*vma, Boo'acka, '£*fha, 'Foodje, Ta'tw, 'N**fo, 'Eeo, Ta'ha**, E'ooa, 'Toroo, A'faa, Zealand. Ta'wagga, Kak'ahco, 'Matta, Ta'nvka, 'isVka, 'Rtvnga, TakVjpo, Ok, 'Katta, T«to, Ka'^wre, Moko, N**ho, YccOyUeo, Ai, Atta'hww, f. Anna'hooroo, 'Wannahoo, f.Wanna'hwc, Malicrfo. Na'brr who Vol. II. *Bbb r hath hath difpelled the illufion of a terra aufiralis incognita, and fixed the bounds of the habitable earth, as well as thofe of the navigable ocean, in the fouthern hemisphere. I mall not, however, expatiate on that ample field of praife, but confine my difcourfe to what was the intention of this honorary premium, namely, to crown that Paper of the year which mould contain the mofl: ufeful and moft fuc-cefsful experimental inquiry. Now what inquiry can be fo ufeful as that which hath for its object the faving the lives of men? And when fhall we find one more fuccefsfui than that before us? Here are no vain boaftings of the empiric, nor ingenious and delufive theories of the dogmatift; but a concife, an artlefs, and an incontefled relation of the means, by which, under the Divine favour, Captain Cook, with a company of an hundred and eighteen men *, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, throughout all the climates, from fifty-two degrees north, to feventy-one degrees fouth, with the lofis of only one man by a difiemper -\. What muft enhance to us the value of thefe falutary obfervations, is to fee the practice hath been no lefs fimple than efficacious. I would now inquire of the moft converfant in the ftudy of bills of mortality, whether in the moft healthful climate, and in the bcft condition of life, they have ever found fo * There were on board3 in all, one hundred and eighteen men, including M. Sparrman, whom they took in at the Cape of Good Hope, | This was a pbthijis pulmonalis terminating in a dropfy. Mr. Patten, furgeon to the Rtfo~ hticn, who mentioned to me this cafe, obferved that this man began fo early to complain of a cough and other confumptive fymptoms, which had never left him, that his lungs muft have been affc&ed before he came on board. fmall ■fmall a number of deaths in fuch a number of men, within that fpace of time ? How great and agreeable then mud our furprife be, after pcrufing the hiflories of long navigations in former days, when fo many periflied by marine difcafes, to find the air of the fea acquitted of all malignity, and in fine that a voyage round the world may be undertaken with lefs danger to health than a common tour in Europe ! But the better to fee the contrail between the old and the prefent times, allow me to recal to your memory what you have read of the firft voyage for the cftablifhment of the Eafl-India Company The equipment confiding of four fliips, with four hundred and eighty men, three of thofe veflels were fo weakened by the fcurvy, by the time they had got only three degrees beyond the Line, that the merchants, who had embarked on this adventure, were obliged to do duty as common failors ; and there died in all, at fea, and on fhore at Soldania (a place of refreshment on this fide the Cape of Good Hope) one hundred and live men, which was near a fourth part of their complement. And hath not Sir Richard Hawkins, an intelligent as well as brave officer, who lived in that age, recorded, that in twenty years, during which he had ufed the fa, he could give an account of ten tboufand mariners who had'been confumed by the fcurvy alone*[ ? Yet fo far was this author from miftaking the difeafe, that I have pcr-ufed few who have fo well defcribed it. If then in thofe early times, the infancy I may call them of the commerce and naval power of England, fo many were carried off by that bane of fea-faring people, what muft have been the destruction afterwards, upon the great augmentation of the * This fquadron ender the command of Lancastkr (who was called the General) fet cut in the year 1601. Sec Purchases I'ilgr. vol. i. p. 147, & fe.j. -J- Idem, vol. iv. p. 1373, & feq. B b b 2 . fleet, fleet, and the opening of fo many new ports to the trade of Great Britain, whilft fo little advancement was made in the nautical part of medicine ! But pafling from thefe old dates to one within the remembrance of many here prefent, when it might have been expected that whatever tended to aggrandize the naval power of Britain, and to extend her commerce, would have received the higheft improvement; yet wc mall find, that even at this late period few meafures had been taken to preferve the health of fcamen, more than had been known to our uninftructed anceftors. Of this affertion the victorious, but mournful, expedition of Commodore Anfon, affords too convincing a proof. It is well known that foon after pafling the Streights of Le Maire, the fcurvy began to appear in his fquadron ; that by the time the Centurion had advanced but a little way into the South Sea, forty-feven had died of it in his fhip; and that there were few on board who had not, in fome degree, been affected with the diftcmpcr, though they had not been then eight months from England. That in the ninth month, when Handing for the ifland of JuanFernan-dez, the Centurion loft double that number; and that the mortality went on at fo great a rate (I ftill fpeak of the Commodore's iliip) that before they arrived there me had buried two hundred ; and at laft could mufter no more than fix of the the common men in a watch capable of doing duty. This was the condition of one of the three fliips which reached that iiland ; the other two fuffered in proportion. Nor did the tragedy end here ; for after a few months refpite the fame fatal ficknefs broke out afrefh, and made fuch havock, that before the Centurion (which now contained the whole furviving crew of the three fliips) had got to 8 the the iiland of Tinian, there died fometimes eight or ten in a; day ; infomuch that when they had been only two years on their voyage, they had loft a larger proportion than of four in five of their original number; and, by the account of the hiftorian, all of them, after their entering the South Sea, of the fcurvy. I fay by the account of the elegant writer of this voyage; for as he neither was in the medical line him-felf, nor hath authenticated this part of his narrative by appealing to the furgeons of the fhip or their journals, I fliould doubt that this was not ftriclly the cafe; but rather, that in producing this great mortality, a peftilential kind of diftemper was joined to the fcurvy, which, from the places where it moft frequently occurs, hath been diftin-guifhed by the name of jail or hofpital-ftver*. But whether the fcurvy alone, or this fever combined with it, were the caufe, it is not at prefent material to inquire, fince both, arifing from foul air and other fources of putrefaction, may now in a great meafure be obviated by the various means fallen upon fince Lord Anion's expedition. For in jufticc to that prudent as well as brave commander, it muft be obferved that the arrangements preparatory to his voyage were not made by himfelf; that his fhip was fo deeply laden as not to admit of opening the gun-ports, except in the calmeft weather, for the benefit of air; and that nothing appears to have been neglected by him, for preserving the health of his men, that was then known and practifed in the navy. * Dr. Mead, who had feen the original obfervations of two of Commodore Anfon's furgeon.-,. fays, that the fcurvy at that time was accompanied with putrid fivers, &c. See his Trcjiife on the Scurvy, p. 98. & fej. I mould I mould now proceed to enumerate the chief improvements made fince that period, and which have enabled our mips to make fo many fuccefsf ul circumnavigations, as in a manner to efface the impreffion of former difaflers ; but as I have mentioned the ficknefs mofl dcflructive to mariners, and againfl the ravages of which thofe prefcrvatives have been mainly contrived, it may be proper briefly to explain its nature, and the rather as, unlefs among mariners, it is little undcrflood. Firfl then, I would obferve that the fcurvy is not the ailment which goes by that name on more. The diflemper commonly, but erroneoufly, in this place, called the fcurvy, belongs to a clafs of difeafes totally different from what we are now treating of; and fo far is the commonly received opinion, that there are few conflitutions altogether free from a fcorbutic taint, from being true, that unlefs among failors and fome others circumflanced like them, more particularly with refpect to thofe who ufe a fait and putrid diet, and efpecially if they live in foul air and unclean-linefs, I have reafon to believe there are few diforders lefs frequent. This opinion I fubmitted to the judgment of the focicty feveral years ago, and I have had no reafon fince to alter it. I then faid, contrary to what was generally believed, but feemingly on the bell grounds, that the fea-air was never the caufe of the fcurvy, fince on board a fhip, on the longed voyages, cleanlinefs, ventilation, and frefli provifions, would prcfervc from it; and that upon a fea-coafl, free from marfhes, the inhabitants were not liable to thatin-difpofition, though frequently breathing the air from the fea f. I concluded with joining in fentiments with thofe who afcribed the fcurvy to a feptic refolution, that is a beginning f Difeafes of the Army, pari I, ch. 2. Append, Pap. 7. corruption corruption of the whole habit, fimilar to that of every animal-fubftance when deprived of life*. This account feemed to be fufficiently verified by the examination of the fymptoms in the fcorbutic fick, and of the appearances in their bodies-after death f. On that occafion I remarked, that faltcd meats after fome time become in effect, putrid, though they may continue long palatable by means of the fait j and that common fait, fuppofed to be one of the urongeiT prefcr-vatives from corruption, is at bed but an indifferent one, even in a large quantity ; and in a fmall one, fuch as we ufe at table with frefh meats, or fwallow in meats that have been faked, fo far from impeding putrefaction, it rather promotes that procefs in the body. This pofition concerning the putrefying quality of fea* fait, in certain proportions, hath been fince confirmed by the experiments of the late Mr. Canton, Fellow of this Society, in his Paper on the Caufe of the luminous appearance of fca-*water\* It hath been alleged, that the fcurvy is much owing to the coldnefs of the air, which checks perfpiration, and on that account is the endemic didemper of the northern nations, particularly of thofe around the Baltic §. The fact is partly true, but I doubt not fo the caufe. In thofe regions, by the long and fevere winters, the cattle deftuute of padure can barely live, and are therefore unfit for ufej fo that the people, for their provifion during that fea fon, arc obliged to daughter themby the endof autumn,and to fait them forabove • Difeafcs of the Army, Part I. chap, 2. Append. Pap. 7. ■\ Woodali's Surgeon's Mate, p. 163. Poupart. Mem- de l'Acad. R. des Sc. A. irgg. Pctifc,. Mai. des Os, torn. II. p. 416. Mead on the Scurvy, p> 104,. % Phil. Tranfaft. vol. lix. p. 446. $ Bartholin. Med. Danor. Domellic. p. 9S, half half the year. This putrid diet then, on which they muft fub-fift fo long, and to which the inhabitants of the fouth are not reduced, feems to be the chief caufe of the difeafe. And if we reflect that the lower people of the north have few or no greens nor fruit in the winter, fcarce any fermented liquors, and often live in damp, foul, and ill-aired houfes, it is eafy to conceive how they fliould become liable to the fame dif-tempcr with fcamen; whilft others of as high a latitude, but who live in a different manner, keep free from it. Thus we are informed by Linnaeus, that the Laplanders, one of the moft hyperborean nations, know nothing of the fcurvy*; for which no other reafon can be affigned than their never eating faked meats, nor indeed fall with any thing, but their ufing all the winter the frefli flefh of their rain-deer. This exemption of the Laplanders from the general dif-temper of the north is the more obfervable, as they feldom talle vegetables, bread* never, as wc farther learn from that celebrated author. Yet in the very provinces which border on Lapland, where they ufe bread, but fcarcely any other vegetable, and cat faked meats, they are as much troubled with the fcurvy as in any other country f. But let us incidentally remark, that the late improvements in agriculture, gardening, and the other arts of life, by extending their influence to the remoter! parts of Europe, and to the loweft people, begin fenfibly to IefTen the frequency of that complaint, even iri thofe climates that have been once the moft afflicted with it. * Linnxi F!ora Lapponica, p, ?, q. f Linracus in feveral parts of his work confirm? what is here faid of falted meats, as cne of the chief caufes of the fcurvy. See Amccniiar. A.ad. vol. v. p. 6. & feq. p. 42, It It hath alfo been afTerted, that men living on fhore will be affected with the fcurvy, though they have never been confined to falted meats; but of this I have never known any inftance, except in thofe who breathed a marfliy air, or what was otherwife putrid, and who wanted exercife, fruits, and green vegetables: under fuch circumflances it mufl be granted, that the humours will corrupt in the fame manner, though not in the fame degree, with thofe of mariners. Thus, in the late war, when Sifinghurfl Caflle in Kent was filled with French prifoners, the fcurvy broke out among them, notwithflanding they had never been ferved with falted victuals in England> but had daily had an allowance of frefli meat, and of bread in proportion, though without greens or any other vegetable. The furgeon who attended them, and from whom I received this information, having formerly been employed in the navy, was the better able to judge of the diforder and to cure it. Befides the deficiency of herbs, he obferved that the wards were foul and crowded, the houfe damp (from a moat that furrounded it) and that the bounds allotted for taking the air were fo fmall, and in wet weather fo floughy, that the men feldom went out. He added, that a representation having been made, he had been empowered to furnifli the prifoners with roots and greens for boiling in their foup, and to quarter the fick in a neighbouring village in a dry fituation, with liberty to go out for air and exercife ; and that by thefe means they had all quickly recovered. It is probable, that the fcurvy fooner appeared among thefe flrangers, from their having been taken at fea, and confequently more difpofed to the difeafe. My informer further acquainted me, that in the lower and wetter parts of that county, where fome of his practice lay, he had now and then met with flighter cafes of the fcurvy among the common people; Vol. II. C c c fuch, fuch, he faid, as lived the whole winter on falted bacon, without fermented liquors, greens, or fruit, a few apples excepted; but, he remarked, that in the winters following a plentiful growth of apples, thofe peafants were vifibly lefs liable to the diforder. I have dwelt the longer on this part of my fubject, as I look upon the knowledge of the nature and caufe of the fcurvy to be an efTential ftep towards improving the means of prevention and cure. And I am perfuaded, after much reflection, and the opportunities I have had of converfing with thofe who, to much fagacity, had joined no fmall experience in nautical practice, that upon an examination of the feveral articles, which have either been of old approven, or have of late been introduced into the navy, it will be evident, that though thefe means may vary in form, and in their mode of operating; yet they all fome way contribute towards preventing or correcting putrefaclion, whether of the air in the clofer parts of a fhip, of the meats, of the water, of the clothes and bedding, or of the body itfelf. And if in this inquiry (which may be made by the way, whilft we take a review of the principal articles of provifion, and other methods ufed by Captain Cook to guard againft the fcurvy) I fay, if in this inquiry it fhall appear, that the notion of a feptic or putrid origin, is not without foundation, it will be no fmall encouragement to proceed on that principle, in order further to improve this important branch of medicine. Captain Cook begins his lift of flores with malt; Of this, he fays, was made Sweet Wort, and given not only to thofe men who had manifeft fymptoms of the fcurvy, but to fuch alfo as were judged to be moft liable to it. Dr. Macbride, who firft fuggefted this preparation, was led (as he fays) to the difcovery by fome experiments experiments that had been laid before this Society; by which it appeared that the air produced by alimentary fermentation was endowed with a power of correcting putrefaction*. The fact he confirmed by numerous trials, and finding this fluid to be Fixed Air, he juflly concluded, that whatever fubftance proper for food abounded with it, and which could be conveniently carried to fea, would make one of the bed provifions againfl the fcurvy ; which he then confidercd as a putrid difcafe, and as fuch to be prevented or cured by that powerful kind of antifepticf. Beer, for in-fiance, had always been edeemed one of the bell: antifcor-butics; but as that derived all its fixed air from the malt of which it is made, he inferred that malt itfclf was preferable in long voyages, as it took up lefs room than the brewed liquor, and would keep longer found. Experience hath fince verified this ingenious theory, and the malt hath now gained fo much credit in the navy, that there only wanted fo long, fo healthful, and fo celebrated a voyage as this, to rank it among the mod indifpenfable articles of provifion. For though Captain Cook remarks, that A proper attention to other things mufl be joined, and that he is not altogether of opinion, that the wort will be able to cure the fcurvy in an advanced fiate at fea; yet he is pcrfuaJed that it is fifficicnt to prevent that difiemper from making any great progrefs, for a confiderable time ; and therefore he doth not hefitate to pronounce it one of the befi antifcorbutic medicines yet found out $. This * Append, to my Obfervations on tht Difeafcs of the Army, f Macbride's Exper. E(T. pajftm. \ Having been favoured with a fight of the medical journal of Mr. Patten, furgeon to the Rfolution, I read the following paffage in it, not a little ftrengthening the above teftimony. / have found the wort of tht utmojl fervice in all fcorhutic cafes during the voyage. As many took it by way of prevention, few cafes occurred where it had a fair trial; hut thefe, btwever, I flat- C c c 2 ttr This falutary gas (or fixed air) is contained more or lefs in all fermentable liquors, and begins to oppofe putrefaction as foon as the working or inteftine motion commences. In wine it abounds, and perhaps no vegetable fubflance is more replete with it than the juice of the grape. If we join the grateful tafle of wine, we mufl: rank it the firfl in the lift of antifcorbutic liquors. Cyder is likewife good, with other vinous productions from fruit, as alfo the various kinds of beer. It hath been a conflant obfervation, that in long cruizes or diflant voyages, the fcurvy is never feen whilfl the fmall-beer holds out, at a full allowance; but that when it is all expended, that ailment foon appears. It were therefore to be wifhed, that this mofl wholefome beverage could be renewed at fea; but our fliips afford not fufhcient convenience. The Ruffians however make a fhift to prepare on board, as well as at land, a liquor of a middle quality between wort and fmall-beer, in the following manner. They take ground-malt and rye-meal in a certain proportion, which they knead into fmall loaves, and bake in the oven. Thefe they occafionally infufe in a proper quantity of warm water, which begins fo foon to ferment, that in the fpace of twenty-four hours their brewage is completed, in the production of a fmall, brifk, and acidulous liquor, they call quas, palatable to themfelves, and not difagreeable to the tafle of flrangcrs. The late Dr. Mounfey, fellow of this Society, who had lived long in Ruffia, and had been Archiater under two fucceflive fovereigns, acquainted me, that the quas was ttr myfelf\ will be fufficient to convince every impartial perfon, that it is the left remedy hitherto found out for the cure of the fea fcurvy : and I am well convinced, from what 1 have feen the wort perform, and from its mode of operation, that if aided by portable-foup, four krout, fugar, fago, and courants, the fcurvy, that maritime pef Hence, will feldom or never make its alarming appearance among a jhip^s crew, on the kngefl voyages ; proper care with regard tt cleanlinefs and provifions being obferved. the common and wholefome drink both of the fleets and armies of that empire, and that it was particularly good againfl the fcurvy. He added, that happening to be at Mof-cow when he perufed my Obfervations on the Jail and HofpitaU Fever, then lately publifhed*, he had been induced to compare what he read in that treatife with what he fliould fee in the feveral prifons of that large city: but to his furprizc, after vi-fiting them all, and finding them full of malefactors (for the late Emprefs then fuffered none of thofe who were convicted of capital crimes to be put to death) yet he could difcover no fever among them, nor learn that arty acute diftemper peculiar to jails had ever been known there. He obferved, that fome of thofe places of confinement had a yard, into which the prifoners were allowed to come for the air; but that there were others without that advantage, yet not fickly: fo that he could affign no other reafon for the healthful condition of thofe men than the kind of diet they ufed, which was the fame with that of the common people of the country; who not being able to purchafe nefh-meat, live moflly on rye-bread (the mofl acefcent of any) and drink quas. He concluded with faying, that upon his return to St* Peterfburg he had made the fame inquiry there, and with the fame refult, Thus far Dr, Mounfey, from whofe account it would feem, that the rye-meal aflifled both in quickening the fermentation and adding more fixed air, fince the malt alone could not fo readily produce fo tart and brifk a liquor. And there is little doubt but that whenever the other grains can be brought to a proper degree of fermentation, they will' * That treatife was firft publifhed by itfelf, and afterwards incorporated with the Obferva-tisns on the Difcafes of the Army. more more or lefs in the fame way become ufeful. That oats will, I am fatisfied from what I have been told by one of the intelligent friends of Captain Cook. This gentleman being on a cruize in a large fhip*, in the beginning of the late war, and the fcurvy breaking out among his crew, he bethought him-felf of a kind of food he had feen ufed in fome parts of the country, as the mod proper on the occafion. Some oatmeal is put into a wooden velTel, hot water is poured upon it, and the infufion continues until the liquor begins to tade fourifh, that is, till a fermentation comes on, which in a place moderately warm, may be in the fpace of two days. The water is then poured off from the grounds, and boiled down to the confidence of a jelly f. This he ordered to be made and dealt out in melles, being fird fweetened with fugar, and feafoned with fome prize French wine, which though turned four, yet improved the tade, and made this aliment not lefs palatable than medicinal. He allured me, that upon this diet chiedy, and by abdain-ing from falted meats, his fcorhutic lick had quite recovered on board ; and not in that voyage only, bur, by the fame means, in his fubfequent cruizes during the war, without his being obliged to fend one of them on fhore becaufe they could not get well at fea. Yet oat-meal unfermented, like barley unmalted, hath no fenfible efFecT: in curing the fcurvy: as if the fixed air, which is incorporated with thefe grains, could mix with the chyle which they produce, enter the lacleals, and make part of the nourifliment of the body, without manifeding any cladic or antifeptic quality, when not loofened by a previous fermentation. # The Efiex, a feventy-gun (hip. f This rural food, in the North, is called Sooins. Before Before the power of the fixed air in fubduing putrefaction was known, the efficacy of fruits, greens, and fermented liquors, was commonly afcribed to the acid in their compo-fition; and we have ftill reafon to believe that the acid concurs in operating that effect. If it be alleged that mineral acids, which contain little or no fixed air, have been tried in the fcurvy with little fuccefs, I would anfwer,that I doubt that in thofe trials they have never been fufficiently diluted ; for it is eafy to conceive, that in the fmall quantity of water the elixir of vitriol, for inftance, is commonly given, that auftere acid can fcarce get beyond the firft pafTages; confidering the delicate fenfibility of the mouths of the lacteals, which muft force them to fhut and exclude fo pungent a liquor. It were therefore a proper experiment to be made, in a deficiency of malt, or when that grain fhall happen to be fpoilt by keeping J, to ufe water acidulated with the fpirit of fea-fait, in the proportion of only ten drops to a quart j or with the weak fpirit of vitriol, thirteen drops to the fame meafure §: and to give to thofe that are threatened with the difeafe three quarts of this liquor daily, to be confumed as they fhall think proper. But if the fixed air and acids are fuch prcfcrvatives againft the fcurvy, why fhould Captain Cook make fo little account of the rob of lemons and of oranges (for fo they have called the extracts or infpilTatcd juices of thofe fruits) in treating that dtftemper? This I found was the reafon. Thefe preparations being only fent out upon trial, the furgeon of the % Captain Cook told me, thai the malt held out fufficiently good for the two firft years ; but that in the third, having loft much of its tafte, he doubted whether it retained any of its virtues. Mr. Patten however obferved, that though the malt at that time was fenfibly decayed, yes neverthelefs he had ftill found it ufeful, when he employed a larger proportion of it to make the infufion. § In thefe proportions I found the water tafte juft acidulous and pleafant* 3 fhip fhip was told, at a conjecture, how much he might give for a dofe, but without ftridly limiting it. The experiment was made with the quantity fpecifled, but with fo little advantage, that judging it not advifeable to lofe more time, he fet about the cure with the wort only, whereof the efficacy he was certain ; whilft he referved thefe robs for other purpofes; more particularly for colds, when, to a large draught of warm water, with fome fpirits and fugar, he added a fpoon-f ul of one of them, and with this compofition made a grateful fudorific that anfwered the intention. No wonder then if Captain Cook, not knowing the proper dofe of thefe concentrated juices for the fcurvy, but feeing them fail as they were given in the trial, fliould entertain no great opinion of their antifcorbutic virtue. It may be alfo proper to take notice, that as they had been reduced to a fmall proportion of their bulk by evaporation upon fire, it is probable, they were much weakened by that procefs, and that with their aqueous parts they had loft not a little of their aerial, on which fo much of their antifeptic power depended. If, therefore, a further trial of thefe excellent fruits were to be made, it would feem more advifeable to fend to fea the purified juices entire in cafks; agreeably to a propofal I find hath been made to the Admiralty fome years ago by an ingenious and experienced furgeon of the navy. For in truth, the tefti-monies in favour of the falutary qualities of thefe acids are fo numerous and fo ftrong, that I fliould look upon fome failures, even in cafes where their want of fuccefs cannot fo well be accounted for, as in this voyage, not a fufficient reafon for ftriking them out of the lift of the moft powerful prefervatives againft this confuming malady of failors. It may be obferved, that Captain Cook fays not more in praife of vinegar than of the robs\ yet I would not thence * infer infer that he made no account of that acid, but only that as he happened in this voyage to be fparingly provided with it, and yet did well, he could not confider a large ftore of vinegar to be fo material an article of provifion as was commonly imagined. And though he fupplied its place in the melTes of the men with the acid of the foiir-crout, and trufted chiefly to fire for purifying his decks, yet it is to be hoped that future navigators will not therefore omit it. Vinegar will ferve at leafl for a wholefome variety in the feafoning of falted meats, and may be fometimes fuccefsfully ufed as a medicine, efpecially in the afpcrfions of the berths of the fick. It is ob-fcrvablc, that though the fmell be little grateful to a perfon in health, yet it is commonly agreeable to "thofe who are fick, at leaft to fuch as are confined to a foul and crouded ward. There the phyfician himfelf will fmell to vinegar, as much for plcafure as for guarding againft infection. Now the wort and the acid juices were only difpenfed as medicines, but the next article was of more extenfive ufe. Tliis was the Sour-Crout (four cabbage), a food of univerfal re-queft in Germany. The acidity is acquired by its fpontane-ous fermentation, and it was the four tafte which made it the more acceptable to all who ate it. To its further commendation we may add, that it held out good to the laft of the voyage. It may fecm ftrange, that though this herb hath had fo high encomiums bellowed upon it by the ancients (witnefs what Cato the elder and Pliny the Naturalift fay on the fub-jcct), and hath had the fanction of the experience of nations for ages, it fhould yet be difapproved of by fome of the moft diftinguifhed medical writers of our times. One finds it yield a rank fmell in decoction, which he confounds with that of pu> Vol. II. D d d trefaction. trcfaction. Another analyzes it, and difcovers fo much grofs air in the compofition as to render it indigeliible; yet this flatulence, fo much decryed, muft now be acknowledged to be the fixed air, which makes the cabbage fo wholefome when fermented. Nay it hath been traduced by one of the moft celebrated phyficians of our age, as partaking of a poifonous nature: nor much better founded was that notion of the fame illuftrious profeflbr, that cabbage being an alcalefccnt plant, and therefore difpofing to putrefaction, could never be ufed in the fcurvy, except when the difeafe proceeded from an acid. But the experiments which I formerly laid before the Society evinced this vegetable, with the reft of the fuppofed alcalefccnts, to be really acefcent; and proved that the fcurvy is never owing to acidity, but, much otherwife, to a fpecies of putrefaction; that very caufe, of which the ill-grounded clafs of alcalefcents was fuppofed to be a promoter *, Among other of the late improvements of the naval flores we have heard much of the Port able-Soup, and accordingly we find that Captain Cook hath not a little availed himfelf of it in his voyage. This concentrated broth being freed from all fat, and having by long boiling evaporated the moft pu-trefcent parts of the meat, is reduced to the confidence of a glue, which in effect it is, and will, like other glues, in a dry place, keep found for years together. It hath been faid, that broths turn four on keeping, though made without any vegetable f, Now, whether any real acid can be thus formed or not, I incline at leaft to believe that the gelatinous parts of animal fubftances, fuch as compofe thefe cakes, are not • See this remark more at large, in my Obfervations on the Difeafes of the Army, App. Pap. 7. f La feule matiere qui s'aigriJTe dans Ie fang eft la matiere gelatineufe, &c. Senac, Structure Cccur, 1. iJ. ch. 4. § 5. Of of a nature much difpofed to putrefy. But however that may be, fince Captain Cook obferves, that this foup was the means of making his people eat a greater quantity of greens than they would have done otherwife, in fo far wc muft allow it to have been virtually antifeptic. So much for thofe articles that have of late been fupplied to all the king's fhips on long voyages, and in which therefore our worthy brother claims no other merit than the prudent difpenfation of them; but what follows being regulations either wholly new, or improven hints from fome of his experienced friends, we may juftly appropriate them to himfelf. Firft then, he put his people at three watches, inftead of two, which laft is the general practice at fea ; that is, he divided the whole crew into three companies, and by putting each company upon the watch by turns, four hours at a time, every man had eight hours free, for four of duty: whereas at watch and watch, the half of the men being on duty at once, with returns of it every four hours, they can have but broken ileep, and when expofed to wet, they have not time to get dry before they lie down. When the fervice requires it, fuch hardfhips muft be endured; but when there is no preffing call, ought not a mariner to be refrefhed with as much uninterrupted reft as a common day-labourer? I am well informed, that an officer diftinguifhes himfelf in nothing more than in preferving his men from wet and the other injuries of the weather. Thefe were moft effential points with this humane commander. In the torrid zone he fhaded his people from the fcorching fun by an awning over his deck, and in his courfe under the antarctic circle he had a coat provided for each man, of a fubftantial woollen D d d 2 fluff, fluff, with the addition of a hood for covering their heads.. This garb (which the failors called their Magellan jacket) they occafionally wore, and found it moll comfortable for working in rain and fnow, and among the broken ice in the high latitudes of the South. Let us proceed to another article, one of the mofl material* the care to guard againfl putrefaction, by keeping clean the perfons, the cloaths, bedding, and berths of the failors. The Captain acquainted me, that regularly, one morning in the week, he paffed his fhip's company in review, and faw that every man had changed his linen, and was in other points as clean and neat as circumflances would permit. It is well known how much Cleanllnefs is conducive to health, but it is not fo obvious how much it alfo tends to good order and other virtues. That diligent officer was perfuaded (nor was perhaps the obfervation new) that fuch men as he could induce to be more cleanly than they were difpofed to be of themfclves, became at the fame time more fober, more orderly,, and more attentive to their duty. It mufl be acknowledged that a feaman has but indifferent means to keep himfelf clean, had he the greatefl inclination to do it; for I have not heard that commanders of mips have yet availed themfelvcs of the Jill for providing frefh water for warning ; and it is well known that fea-water doth not mix with foap, and that linen wet with brine never thoroughly dries. But for Captain Cook, the frequent opportunities he had of taking in water among the iflands of the South-Sea, enabled him in that trad to difpenfe to his lhip's company fome frefh water for every ufe; and when he navigated in the high latitudes of the Southern Oceans, he ftill more abundantly provided them with it, as you will find by the fequel of this Difcourfe. Of Of the hammocks and bedding I need lay little, as all officers are now fenfible, how much it concerns the health of their people to have this part of a fhip*s furniture kept dry and well-aired ; fince by the pcrfpiration of fo many men, every thing below, even in the fpace of twenty-four hours, is apt to contract an ofFenfive moiflurc. But Captain Cook was not fatisfied with ordering upon deck the hammocks and bedding every day that was fair (the common method) but took care that every bundle fliould be un-laflied, and fo fpread out, that every part of it might be ex-pofed to the air. His next concern was to fee to the purity of the fhip itfelf* without which attention all the reft would have profited little. I fhall not however detain you with the orders about wafhing and fcraping the decks, as I do not underftand that in this kind of cleanfing he excelled others j but fince our author has laid fo great a ftrefs upon Fire, as a purifier, I fhall endeavour to explain the way of ufing it, more fully than he has done in his Paper. Some wood, and that not fparingly, being put into a proper ftove or grate, is lighted, and carried fucccilively to every part below deck. Wherever fire is, the air neareft to it being heated becomes fpecifically lighter, and by being lighter rifes, and palTes through the hatchways into the atmofpherc. The vacant fpace is filled with the cold air around, and that being heated in its turn, in like manner afcends, and is replaced by other air as before* Thus, by continuing the fire for fome time, in any of the lower apartments, the foul air is in a good meafure driven out, and the frefh admitted. This is not all: I apprehend that the acid fleams of the wood, in burning, act here as an an-tifeptic and correct the corrupted air that remains, .An An officer of diflinguifhed rank, another of Captain Cook's experienced friends, mentioned to me a common and jufl obfervation in the fleet, which was, that all the old twenty-gun mips were remarkably lefs fickly than thofe of the fame fize of a modern conflruclinn. This, he faid, was a cir-cumflance he could not otherwife account for, than, by the former having their galley f in the fore-part of the orlop *, the chimney vented fo ill, that it was fure to fill every part with fmoke whenever the wind was a-flern. This was a nuifance for the time, but, as he thought, abundantly compenfated by the extraordinary good health of the feveral crews. Poffi-bly thofe fire-places were alfo beneficial, by drying and ventilating the lower decks, more when they were below, than they can do now that they are placed under the fore-caflle upon the upper deck. But the mofl obvious ufe of the portable fires was their drying up the moifture, and efpecially in thofe places where there was the leafl circulation of air. This humidity, compofed of the pcrfpirable matter of a multitude of men, and often of animals (kept for a live-flock) and of the fleams of the bilge water from the well, where the corruption is the greatefl; this putrid moiflure, I fay, being one of the main fources of the fcurvy, was therefore more particularly attended to, in order to its removal. The fires were the powerful inflrument for that purpofe, and whilil they burned, fome men were employed in rubbing hard, with canvafs or oakum, every part of the infide of the fhip that was damp and acceflible. But the advantage of fire appears no where t Their fire-place or kitchen. * The deck immediately above the hold. fo fo manifcfl: as in cleanfing the well; for this being in the lowcfl part of the hold, the whole leakage runs into it, whether of the fhip itfelf, or of the cafks of fpoilt meats or corrupted water. The mephitic vapours, from this fink alone, have often been the caufe of inflantancous death to thofe who have unwarily approached to clean it; and not to one only, but to feveral fucceffively, when they have gone down to fuccour their unfortunate companions: yet this very place has not only been rendered fafe but fweer, by means of an iron pot filled with fire and let down to burn in it. When, from the circumflances of the weather, this falu-tary operation could not take place, the fhip was fumigated with gun-powder, as defcribed in the Paper; though that fmoke could have no effect in drying, but only in remedying the corruption of the air, by means of the acid fpirits from the fulphur and nitre, aided perhaps by fome fpecies of an aerial fluid, then difengaged from the fuel, to counteract putrefaction. But as thefe purifications by gun-powder, as well as by burning tar and other refinous fubitances, are fufficiently known, I fhall not infill longer on them here. Among the feveral means of fwcetening or renewing the air,, wc fliould cxpccl to hear of Dr. Hales's Ventilator. I mud con-fefs it was my expectation, and therefore, perfuaded as I was of the excellence of the invention, it was not without much regret that I faw fo good an opportunity loft, of giving the fame favourable imprelfion of it to the Public. If a degree of fuccefs, exceeding our mofl fanguine hopes, is not fuffi-cicnt for juftifyiri-g the omiflion of a meafure, deemed one of the mofl effential for attaining an cud, I would plead in favour of our worthy brother, that by a humiliating fatality, £o often accompanying the mofl ufeful difcoveries, the 8 credit; credit of this ventilator is yet far from being firmly eflablifh-cd in the navy. What wonder then, if Captain Cook being fo much otherwife taken up, fliould not have had time to examine it, and therefore avoided the encumbering his fhip with an apparatus, he had poffibly never feen ufed, and of which he had at bcfl received but a doubtful character ? Nor was he altogether unprovided with a machine for ventilation. He had the Wind-Sails, though he hath not mentioned them in his Paper, and he told me that he had found them at times very ferviceable, and particularly between the Tropics. They have the merit of taking up little room, they require no labour in working, and the contrivance is fo fimple that they can fail in no hands. But their powers are fmall in comparison with thofe of the ventilator; they cannot be put up in hard gales of wind, and they are of no efficacy in dead calms, when a refrefhment of the air is mofl wanted. Should there be any objection to the employing both? Such were the meafures taken by our fagacious Navigator for procuring a purity of air. It remains only to fee in what manner he fupplied pure water; another article of fo great moment, that the thirfly voyager, upon his fait and putrid diet, with a fhort allowance of this element, and that in a corrupted Rate, mufl account a plentiful provifion of frefli water to be indeed the heft of things* Captain Cook was not without an apparatus for diflilling fca-water, and though he could not obtain nearly fo much as was expected from the invention, yet he fometimes availed himfelf of it; but for the mofl of his voyage he was other-wife provided. Within the Southern Tropic, in the Pacific 3 - Ocean, Ocean, he found fo many iflands, and thofe fo well flored with fprings, that, as I have hinted before, he feldom was without a fufficiency of frefh water for every ufeful purpofe. But not fatisfied with plenty, he would have the purefl; and therefore whenever an opportunity offered, he emptied what he had taken in but a few days before, and fdled his cafks anew. But was he not above four months in his paffage from the Cape of Good Hope to New Zceland, in the frozen zone of the South, without once feeing land ? and did he not a&ually complete his circumnavigation, in that high latitude, without the benefit of a fingle fountain? Here was indeed a wonder of the Deep! I may call it the Romance of his Voyage ! Thofe very fhoals, fields, and floating mountains of ice, among which he fleered his perilous courfe, and which prc-fentcd fuch terrifying profpects of deflrucftion; thofe, I fay, were the very means of his fupport, by fupplying him abundantly with what he mofl wanted. It had been faid that thofe flupcndous maffes of ice, called ifiands or mountains, melted into frefh water, though Crantz, the relator of that paradox, did not imagine they originated from the fea, but that they were firfl formed in the great rivers of the North, and being carried down into the ocean, were afterwards increafed to that amazing height by the fnow that fell upon them *. But that all frozen fea water would thaw into frefli, had either never been afferted, or had met with little credit. This is certain that Captain Cook expected no fuch tranfmutation and therefore was agreeably furprifed to find he had one difficulty lefs to encounter, that of preferving the health of his men fo long on falt-provifions, with a fcanty allowance • Hilt, of Greenland, b. I. ch. ii. § IT, 12. Vol. II. E e e of of corrupted water, or what he could procure by diflillation? The melted ice of the fea was not only frefli but foft, and fo wholefome, as to llicw the fallacy of human reafon unfup-ported by experiments. An ancient of great authority had allignedjfrom theory, bad qualities to melted fnow; and from that period to the prefent times, this prejudice extended to ice had not been quite removed. In this circumnavigation, amidft fleets and falls of fnow, fogs, and much moid weather, the Refolution enjoyed nearly the fame good Hate of health (lie had done in the temperate and torrid zones. It appears only from the journal of the Surgeon, that towards the end of the firft courfe * fome of the crew began to complain of the fcurvy; but the difeafe made little pro-grefs, except in one who had become early an invalid rrortt another caufe. The other diforders were likewife inconii-derable, fuch as common colds, flight diarrhoeas, and inter-mittents that readily yielded to the Bark: there were alfo fome fevers of a continued form, but which by timely care never rofe to an alarming height. Much commendation is therefore due to the attention and abilities of Mr. Patten^ the Surgeon of the Refolution, for having fo well feconded his Captain in the difcharge of his duty. For it mufl be allowed, that in defpite of the befl regulations and the befl provifions, there will always be among a numerous crew, during a long voyage, fome cafualties more or lefs productive of ficknefs ; and that unlefs there be an intelligent medical afliftant on board, many under the wifcfl Commander will perifli, that otherwife might have been faved. * Fix. The voyage between the Gape of Good-Hope and New Zealand, THESE, THESE, Gentlemen, are the reflections I had to lay before you on this interefting fubject; and if I have encroached on your time, you will recollect that much of my difcourfe hath been employed in explaining fome things but jud mentioned by Captain Cook, and in adding other materials, which I had procured partly from himfelf, and partly, after his departure, from thofe intelligent friends he alludes to in his Paper; This was my plan ; which, as I have now executed, you will pleafe to return your thanks to thofe gentlemen, who, on your account, fo cheerfully communicated to me their obfervations.. As toyour acknowledgments to Captain Cook, and your high opinion of his deferts, you will bed teflify them by the honourable diflinction fuggefted by your Council, in prefenting him with this medal: for I need not gather your fuflVages, fince the attention with which you have favoured me hath abundantly expreffed your approbation. My fatisfaction therefore had been complete, had he himfelf been prefen-to receive the honours you now confer upon him. But you. are apprized that our brave and indefatigable Brother is at this inflant far removed from us, anticipating,! may fay, your wonted requeft on thefe occafions, by continuing his labours for the advancement of Natural Knowledge, and for the ho. nour of this Society : as you may be allured, that the object of his new enterprize is not lefs great, perhaps Rill greater than either of the former. Allow me then, Gentlemen, to deliver this medal, with: his unperifhing name engraven upon it, into the hands of one who will be happy to receive that truft, and to know that this refpectable Body never more cordially nor more merito- rioufly rioufly bcdowed that faithful fymbol of their efteem and affection. For if Rome decreed the Civic Crown to him who faved the life of a fmgle citizen, what wreaths are due to that Man, who, having himfelf faved many, perpetuates in your Tranfacrions the means by win Britain may now, on the mod didant voyages, preferve numbers of her intrepid fons, her Mariners; who, braving every danger, hav6 fo liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire, of their Country ! * * Here followed Captain Cook's Paper, which was prefented to the Society, and is infertcd in part z. vol. lxvi. of the Philofophical Tranfiftions; but as the Subftance of that Publication is now contained in the laft pages of Captain Cook's Voyage, it was judged unnecessary to repeat it here. The only material ciicomflance of Capuin Cook's communication to the Society, omitted in his Journal, is the following Extract of a Letter which he wrote to the I\cfide»t, juft before his late embarkation, dated Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776; and is as follows: i entirely agree with you, that the dearnefs of the Rob of lemons, and of o-anpes, will •* hinder them from being furnifhed in hrge quantities; but i do not think this 'fo neceflary, for though they may aflift other things, I have no great opinion of them alone. Nor have i a higher *' opinion of vinegar : my people had it very fparingly during the late voyagej and towards the ** latter part, none at all ; and yet we experienced no ill efrec"b from the want of it. The cuftom i* of warning the infide of the fhip with vinegar 1 feldom obferred, thinking that fire and fmoke ".anfwered the purpofe much better." FINIS.