A
NARRATIVE  OF  FOUR JOURNEYS
INTO THE COUNTRY OF
THE HOTTENTOTS,
AND
IN   THE YEARS
ONE THOUSAND SEVEN HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-SEVEN, EIGHT, AND NINE.
ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP, AND SEVENTEEN COPPER-PLATES. BT LIEUT. WILLIAM PA TE RSO N.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, No. 72, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH-YARD.
MDCCLXXXIX.
T O
SIR   JOSEPH   BANKS, BART,
PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY; WHOSE PERSONAL RESEARCHES, AND UNREMITTING LABOURS, IN THE DIFFERENT BRANCHES OF NATURAL KNOWLEDGE j WHOSE LIBERAL PROTECTION AND SUPPORT OF THOSE WHO ARE ENGAGED IN ITS PURSUITS, HAVE JUSTLY DISTINGUISHED HIM AS 'THE PATRON OF NATURAL HISTORY,
THESE TRAVELS
ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
BY I IIS OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT,
W. PATERSON
ADVERTISEMENT.
In the following pages, the reader is not pre-fented with a romance under the title of a book of travels. It would not have been very difficult to have depicted an Arcadia among the defarts of Africa; or to have afcribed all the delicacy and refinement of Athens to the inhabitants of Caf-fraria. It is fcarceiyan eafier talk to obferve than to invent ; and the embellilhments of the clofet are frequently known to furnifh out a very fpecious publication from very flender materials.
In producing the prefent work, none of the common arts of compilation have been employed ; but this circumftance it is pre fumed will not leflen its value in the eyes of rational perfons : fince what it lofes in entertainment it gains in authenticity.    The public may depend upon it, that they
b
are here prefented with a feries of fa£ts, noted down upon the fpot, without any after additions, with no ornaments of rhetoric, with nothing to
J ZD
recommend them but the fimple form of truth, and perhaps fome degree of accuracy.
As the author was fo fortunate as to vifit in the courfe of thefe travels fome parts which had never previoufly been explored by Europeans, he flatters himfelf he has added a few fails to the general ftock of natural and geographical knowledge.
[   « ]
CONTENTS.
FIRST JOURNEY.
Introduction—Set off with Captain Gordon from the Capey in October 1777— Journey along the Jhore of Bay Falfe—Natural productions in that part-Hottentot Holland—Hang Lip—Palmita Rivier—Knoflick Kraal Rivier, to the How Hook—Information refpecting a Lion being killed—Warm bath .* fome obfervations on the heat of the water—Departure from the hot bath— Firji Hottentot Kranl near the Tyger Hack—Rreed Rivier——Arrive at Zwellendam, refidence of the Lend Dr-oft—-Proceed to Groot Faders Bofch— Land of Egypt: its production—Crofs the Plata Kloaf to the Channa Land —Obfervations of the life of Channa with Dacka—Climate and foil—Slangy or Snake River—Saffron River—Elephants River—An accident happens to our waggon—Arrive at a hot bath—The manner of fecuring our cattle at night from Lions> &c. Beer Valley—The extent of this journey—Captain Gordon proceeds towards the Snow Mountain—Return towards the Cape—■ Meet with fome gentlemen who had been making a furvey of the country— Chonacqua Hottentots—Circumftance refpecting the killing of a Lionefs— Meet with fome peafaiits on their way to the Cape—Arrive at Atquas Kloaf —Short account of Hottniqua Land—Arrive at the Cape,
SECOND JOURNEY.
Tyger Berg—Stilien Bofch—The Erf Rivier—Pafs Hottentot Holland's Kloaf -—Come to the river Zondereynd: the impracticability of croffing it—JR<~
main here for feveral days—Vift Catharina Bay—Proceed towards the Groena Kloaf—The mountains covered with fnow—In confluence of the weather we return to the eaflward, and crofs the Plata Kloaf into the Channa Land—Arrive at a hot hath—Country abounding with beafls of prey—Mr. Van Renan and the author lofe the waggon—Travel through the Karo ; advancing towards the Coud Bokke Veld—Whitfon Berg—Unlucky River—Arrive at a hrackif fountain—Vift two of the boors that live in the Karo during the feafon in which the mountains are covered with fnow—Obfervations on a difeafe among the fieep in this country—Account of a woman who had been bitten by a fnake—Arrive at Rhinoceros Bofch with difficulty—Get up the Rogge Veld Berg : foil and climate—Some obfervations refpecting the highlands in this country—Herds of Quachas— Borders of the country inhabited by the Bojlimen—Vift the Hentum—Difor-der among the horfes peculiar to this country—The Amyrilas Diflicha, poifonous and fatal to horned cattle—Obfervations on the Jiidden change of the climate at the Hentum Berg—Proceed towards the Bokke Land Bergen: the foil and productions—Proceed towards the Great River—Arrive at the Great Thorn River : much frequented by Lions—Pafs a place called the Lion's Den: the water very bad in this country—Come to Black Thorn River—The Small Nimiqua Land—Arrive at the Green River, where we meet with fome Nimiqua Hottentots: fome account of their manners and cuftoms—Afcend a fleep mountain : obferve the Atlantic Ocean to the wefl-ward about thirty miles—Arrive at the Coufic, or Sand River—An account of the Aloe Dichotoma—Pafs the Copper Berg—Meet fome of the Boflmen : their way of living—Enter a fandy defart plain, where we have great difficulty in crojing—Much difreffed for want of provifons—Some account of the Great River—The mountains and productions of that country—The poifons ufed by the Hottentots—Difagreeable ftuaiion of Mr. Van Renan in crofjing the river—Hottentots eat Locufts—Account of the quadrupeds that chiefly inhabit this part of the country—Mr. Van Renan kills a Camelopar-dalis i the greateft part of which is carried off by the Lions—Some account of the fudden overflowing of the river, and the great heat of the climate— Shoot an Hippopotamus: fome account of the manner in which the natives £atcb thefe .animals-^-Zebras Fountain—Difficulties in crofjing a fandy plain
—Send for afjijlancc—Arrival at the Brack Fountain—Small Copper Berg Fountain—Vift the Copper mines—Camis Berg, the fummer refidence of mojl of the boors in the Nimiqua Land—Proceed to Cafpers Kloaf and thence towards the Bokke Veld—Intention of crofjing the country from the Bokke Veld to Caffraria—Reafons for not being able to perform that journey —Vift part of the BoJJmensLand—Arrive at the Elephants River—Continue our journey to the Hecr Lodfeimcnt—Picquct Berg—Arrive at the Berg Rivier j thence proceed to the Cape Town—Arrive 2.0th November 177S.
T HI R D   JOURNE Y.
Caffraria quite unknown to Europeans—Channa Lands height—Well cultivated farm ofOkker Hpins—Longe Kloaf—Crooked River—Camtours Rivier— Forrefl of Mimofa—Lorie River—Van Stadds River—Curious plants and animals—Defcription of the Hartebee/l—Zout Pan, a curious fait lake— Total neglect of agriculture in this country—Wild Dogs—Soudags Rivier, nine hundred miles from the Cape—State of the Dutch boors in this country —Sand Fleet—Chonacquas—Wars between the Chonacquas and Caffres— Cattle flolen by the Caffres—Great Fiff River—Curious plant—Hunting the Buffalo—Difficulty of crojjing the woods—Extenfve profpect of the Indian Ocean, &c.—Caffrania : hojpitality of the people—Manners of the Caffres— King of the Caffres -y his palace and rural fate ; hojpitality and generofity of this monarch—Curious manufactures of Caffraria—Method of making bread from the pith of the Palm tree—Faction among the Caffres—Defcription oj the country and people—Soil and climate—Adventures on returning—■ Klow feknefs among the cattle.
FOURTH JOURNEY.
Rie Beck's Cafile—Verloren Valley—Lofe our way—Joined by Colonel Gordon —Separate again—Depredations by Lions—Hartebeejl Rivier—Joined
again by Colonel G or Jon—Arrive at the lajl houfe to the northward, along the Atlantic Ocean—Fear of the natives to accompany as—Dreary defarts— Afflicting fear city of water—Lofe Mr. Pinar, Colonel Gordons companion —Oftrictis nefl—Orange River—Beautiful plants—Meet with Mr, Pinar: diftreffful filiation of that gentleman, and the Hottentots who accompanied him—Wild Men : unable to form any intercourfe with them : defcription of their huts—Co?ivcrfe at length with the natives—The country very thinly inhabited—Government and manners of thefe favages—Plant ufed by the Hottentots to produce fire—Herd of Zebras—Horned Snake—Part with Colonel Gordon—Copper Berg—Defcription of the woods on Orange River, and the animals found there—Lions River—Manners of the people in this part of Africa—Curious fpecies of Sheep—Obfervations on the African mountains—Camelopardalis—Small Nimiqua Land—Camdinie Rivier— Hunting the Antelope—Plant made ufe of for poijlning Hyenas*
ERRATUM.
Page 35, lajl line but oneyfor eighty-eiglH, read feventy-eight.
NARRATIVE OF FOUR JOURNEYS.
THE    FIRST JOURNEY.
Introduction—Set off with Captain Gordon from the Cape, in October 1777— Journey along the fiore of Bay Falfe—Natural productions in that part— Hottentot Holland—Hang Lip—Palmita Rivier—Knofick Kraal Rivier, to the How Hook—Information refpecting a lion being killed—Warm bath fome obfervations on the heat of the water—Departure from the hot bath.— Firfl Hottentot Kraal near the Tyger Hock—Breed Rivier—Arrive at Zwillendam, refldence of the Lend Droft—Proceed to Groot Faders Bofch— Land of Egypt 5 ;*s production—Crofs the Plata Kloef to the Channa Land —Obfervations of the ufe of Channa with Dacka—Climate and foil— Slang, or Snake River—Saffron River—Elepha?its River—An accident happens to our waggon—Arrive at a hot bath—The ?nanner of fecuring our cattle at night from lions, &c.—Beer Valley—The extent of this journey—Captain Gordon proceeds towards the Snow Mountain—Return towards the Cape—Meet with fome gentlemen who had been making a furvey of the country—Chonacqua Hottentots—Circumflance refpecting the killing of a lionefs—Meet with fome peafants on their way to the Cape— Arrive at Atquas Kloef—Short account ofHottniqua Land—Arrive at the Cape.
THERE is certainly 110 part of the world fo little known to Europeans as thole regions of Africa, which lie fouth of the equinoctial line. Neither the reftlefs ambition of ancient Rome, nor the equally enterprifing fpirit of commerce, have penetrated beyond a certain limit. Satisfied with the conqucft. and productions of thofe provinces which bor-
B
dered on die Red and Mediterranean feas, the Romans con-fidered the other parts of this continent as a barren and ufelefs wafte, the pofleflion of which could not increafe their glory; and they, therefore, willingly left it in its original obfcurity. Nor did the arms and arts of the victorious Arabians fpread conquefl and knowledge beyond the limits marked by the former conquerors of this country, which, from north to fouth, extended very little farther than fix degrees, or three hundred and fixty miles. Even fo late as the fixteenth century, John Leo appears to have known fcarcely more than one half of this fe&ion of the globe. Of the remainder, much lias been fince that time difcovered, and much ftill remains unexplored.
Thofe objects which ambition has in many inftances overlooked, or left unattempted, the no lefs a&ive fpirit of induftry has adverted to, and attained. This has been in fome meafure the cafe with refpecl: to Africa, but in a very confined degree. The hope of gain, which has led the fons of Europe to traverfe vaft oceans in fearch of diitant, and fome-times imaginary territories, has, in this part of the world, confined its operations to the coaft, and the adjacent country. The gold dull, which rolls from the mountains, the ivory, and above all, the devoted vicVims of tyranny and avarice, have tempted the enterpriiing mariner frequently to revifit fome part of its fhores. But here his curiofity, or his defire of gain, have been fatisfied, or at leaft were not fufficiently powerful to tempt him to explore a country where his profits were uncertain, and his fatigue and dangers unavoidable ; and
the interior regions of Africa {till continue unvalued, only, perhaps, becaufe unknown.
But if ambition did not tempt the conquerors of the world to extend their empire acrofs the dreary deferts of Africa, nor commerce induce mankind to examine a country, the external appearance of which prefents few allurements to the mere lovers of gain, to compenfate for the dangers of exploring dreary and fcorching regions, inhabited by ravenous beafts and noxious reptiles; yet there is one defcription of men to whom, with all their terrors, they will afford the moil ample gratifiV cation. The admirer of Nature has, in this country, a wide field for invefligation: here he will difcover objects amply fufficient to fatisfy the moll: inquifitive tafte : here he will find every object, limple and unadorned; and will behold, in the uncivilized Hottentot, thofe virtues, which he, perhaps^ fought for in civilized fociety in vaim
ImprelTed with thefe fentiments, and incited by the profpect of a country, the productions of which were unknown, I left England with a view to gratify a curiofity, which, if not laudable, was at lealt innocent.
The period when we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, being the middle of May, it was too late in the feafon to go into Table Bay with fafety, owing to the variable ftate of the weather at this time, which is that of the fettino; in of the Quaod Monfoon, or winter ; we anchored, therefore, in the Bay Falfe.   Immediately on our arrival, a very heavy fall of
rain prevented my feeing any part of the country; and towards the end of the month, the hills, near the Cape, were covered with fnow for feveral days. During the winter, therefore, I was only able to indulge myfelf in fhort excurlions from the Cape town ; while I made more ample preparations for a journey into the country when the feafon might be more favourable.
I was particularly fortunate in meeting with a gentleman^ Captain Gordon, (now Colonel) who had travelled in this country fome years before, (about 1774) and was lately returned from Holland, as fecond in command, and appointed to fucceed Colonel Du Phren, who was then commander in chief. Colonel Gordon is a gentleman of extenfive information in moil branches of natural hiflory ; and, I believe, is the only perfon who has any confiderable knowledge of that country, being acquainted with the interior parts for near one thoufand five hundred miles from the Cape. He had acquired the language of the Hottentots, which, together with his perfect acquaintance with the Dutch language, gave him an advantage over moll other travellers.
As Mr. Mafon, in his letter to the Royal Society, has de-fcribed the country about the Cape, it is unnecefTary for me to enter into a geographical defcription, or to fay any thing of this tract of territory, except what came immediately under my own obfervation.
The period which I had propofed for my long journey was the beginning of October, when a fettled ilate of the atmofphere
Is generally expected, and when molt of the plants are in flower; and, for this undertaking, I had prepared myfelf by almoft daily u excurfions, which afforded me fome general knowledge of the future theatre of my fpeculations.
On the fifth of October 1777, the day before our departure,., we were entertained with obferving a very uncommon phenomenon, which the people afcribed to a fevere north-well wind at fea. Such a prodigious number of fifli were driven into Table Bay, particularly Porpoifes and Sword-fiili, that the whole bay was entirely covered with them, and apparently it might have been croffed on their backs. Near the edge of the bay the water was red with their blood ; and feveral hundreds of the fifh were driven on more, wLieh the people cut up for oil*
On the fixth, having fent our waggon on before us, Captain Gordon and myfelf left the Cape Town, and proceeded along the bottom of the Table Mountain, leading towards Conltan-tia. We dined at the houfe of Mr. Becker, which is only about two miles diflant from Confhmtia, being well fituatcd and flickered from the north-weft and fouth-eail winds. This place produces excellent.Wine, though the fituation is rather low.. Conflantia is, however, preferable to all other parts of this 1 diflrict, not only becaufe it is rather more elevated, but on account of the nature of the foil, which is a light fandy loam. The whole country abounds with the Protea Argentea, and many forts of Leucadendrons, and alio Ericas and Gnapha-liums ; many fpecimens of which have been lent to Europe. This night we refled at a place called Sand Fleet, the pro-
*777-   perty of a rich farmer of the name of Extim.   It is unnecef-—r~-J fary to enlarge upon the hofpitality of thefe people, fince that circumitance has been remarked by all who have travelled through the country.   The following day we were detained by the inclemency of the weather.
On the eighth, we continued our journey along the bottom of Bay Falfe, from the point of Moefen Berg, to very near Hottentot Holland, which is a continuation of what is called the Sand Down, a large trad of country lying between the Table Bay and Bay Falfe. Molt of it is uninhabitable, on account of a white fand blown up by the fouth-eaft winds in very large ridges. Yet there are many flxrubs difperfed in different parts. It is the principal place whence they procure their fire-wood at the Cape. It alfo produces the Myrica Cerifera ; the berries of which make excellent candles, nearly equal to thofe of bees wax. Near the middle of the bay is a fmall hut, where we found fome fifhermen. It being in the heat of the day, and we much fatigued by travelling through the heavy fand, we relied there about an hour. At firft we expected to regale ourfelves with oyfters ; but the furf was fo ftrong that we were unable to approach the banks. From this place we proceeded on our journey, and about lunfet arrived at the Erlt Rivier, or Fkft River, which has its fource from the Stillen Bofch Mountains, and empties itfelf, at this place, into Bay Falfe. From the late rains we found it almoft impaffable ; but we crofled it with much more fafety than we had expected. As foon as it became dark, we were accofted with the howling of the Hyenas, which accompanied us all the way to Hottentot Holland, where
FIRST   JOURNEY. 7 we arrived about nine, at the residence of a Mr. De Wall. */77-
October.
This was   formerly a place belonging to Governor Adrian 1— Vander Stell, who had introduced many foreign plants into this country, as particularly the Camphor tree.   Many of thefe are from forty to fifty feet in height, and from twelve to thirteen feet in circumference.   Hottentot Holland is fituated on the north-eaft fide of the Bay Falfe, and fnrrounded on three fides by lofty mountains; but open to the fouth-weft, where we have a view of the bay.   The foil here is not fo good for vines as mo ft other places on this fide the mountains, being wet and marfhy ; but it produces excellent corn. The mountains afforded me many beautiful plants, particularly Xe-ranthimums, Geraniums, Gladiolufes, and many others quite new to me.    Here may be faid to be one of the moff difficult paries into the country, called Hottentot Holland's Kloaf.* It is a narrow road cut through the hill, the fummit of which appears to be nearly of a height with the Table Land. This is part of the chain of mountains which have their beginning at Cape Falfe, or the Flang Lip, and continue to the north-well for near three hundred miles ; and from twenty to forty miles from the fea, feveral other branches from this chain extend to the interior parts of the country, which I lhall afterwards have occafion to defcribe in the courfe of my narrative.
After fending our baggage through the pafs, we purfued our journey, on the twelfth, round the Hang Lip, and proceeded to examine the fmall bays and rocks in the mouth of the Bay Falfe; which at that time were but little known; in particular
* Kloaf, fignifies a narrow pafs through the mountains,
1777- that on which the Colebrooke ftruck fome time after. As there is no road along the bay, we took each a fmall portion of pro-vifions and our cloaks ; fatisfied that it would be impoffible to perform the journey in one day. Notwithftanding the rugged rocks and mountains we were obliged to crofs, we took horfe as far as it was poflible ; and much farther than it was fafe ; for the horfe I had, fell with me upon the fide of a very high precipice ; and it was by mere accident that I faved myfelf, by laying hold of a flirub which grew out of a rock. About noon we came to the mouth of Stienbraflam River, which takes its name from a fpecies of fifh, call Stienbraflam. In the morning we came to a deep bay, not laid down in any of our fea-charts. It opens to the north-weft, and is well flickered from the fouth-eaft winds by very lofty mountains. At this time Captain Gordon called it Van Pletenbey's Bay ; but fince that he has given it another name ; and fome time after, he difcovered a bav to the eaftward, which is laid down in all the new charts, and is faid to be very fafe for ihipping. Finding a fmall ftream of excellent water at this place, we agreed to ftay all night; and next morning we continued our journey round the Hang Lip, or Cape Falfe. From Hottentot Holland, to this place, the country is quite uninhabited ; the whole trad confining of precipices and rugged mountains,. We pafled a fecond bay, which was fmaller than the firft; though the entrance is clear of rocks, and a fine white fand ; this was called Gordon's Bay. About a mile and a half from this we came to a third, which, in Captain Gordon's map, is called Paterfon's Bay ; this is •much larger than the fecond, but fmaller than the firft. The latter is directly under the Hang Lip;  and between it and
Gordon's Bay are lakes of freili water, and plenty of wood. All thefe bays open to the north-weft, and ftrike fouth inland. '—-— About two, in the afternoon, we palled Cape Falfe ; to the fouth-eaft of which is a large plain, covered with many different fpecies of grafs ; but all of them bad for cattle. Here I found a fpecies of Erica, which was quite new, with a fpikc of long tubelar yellow flowers, the molt beautiful I had ever feen. There are fome wild buffaloes* about this place, of which
* Mr. Pennant's defcription of this animal is as follows: cc The face is covered with long harih black hair. Chin, underfule of the neck, and dewlap, covered with long, pendulous, and coarfe hairs of the fame colour. From the horns, along the top of the neck, to the middle o'f the back, is a very thin black mane. Body covered with fhort, dark, cinerous hair : bafe of the tail almoft naked and cinerous, the reft full of long black hair. Skin thick and tough. Length from nofe to tail, of one not of the largeft fize, is eight feet: the height five and a half. Depth of the body three feet: length of the head one foot nine : of the trunk of the tail one foot nine : to the end of the hairs, two feet nine. Body and limbs thick and itrong. They inhabit the interior parts of Africa, north of the Cape of Good Hope ; but, I believe, do not extend to the north of the Tropic. They are faid to be greatly fuperior in fize to the largeft Englifh ox: hang their heads down, and have a moft fierce and malevolent appearance. Are excefllvely fierce and dangerous to travellers. Will lie quietly in wait in the woods, and rulh fuddenly on paf-fengers, and trample them, their horfes, and oxen of draught, under their feet: fo that they arc to be fhunned as the moft cruel beafts of this country. They will even return to the attack, and tlelight to lick the Slaughtered bodies. They are prodigioufly fwift, and fo ftrong, that a young one of three years of age, being placed with fix tame oxen in a waggon, could not by their united force be moved from the fpot. They are alfo found in the interior parts of Guinea; but are fo fierce and dangerous, that the negroes who are in chace of other animals arc fearful of mooting at them. The lion, which can break the back of the ftrongeft domeftic oxen at one blow, cannot kill this fpecies, except by leaping on its back, and fuffocating'ir, by fixing its talons about its nofe and mouth. The lion often perifhes in the attempt; but leaves the marks of its fury about the mouth and nofe of the b^eafl:. It loves much to roll in the mud, and is fond of the water. The flefh is coarfe, but juicy, and has the flavour of venifon. They live in great herds, efpecially in Krake-Kamma, and other deferts of the Cape ; and retire during day into the thick forelts. Are reckoned good meat. They are called by the Dutch of the Cape, Aurochs.
Another fpecies of Aurochs is briefly defcribed by the Dutch travellers; who fay it is like the.cjmmju ox, but larger, and of a grey color ; that its head is /mall, and horns fhort j that
C the
'777-   -we faw feveral : but they were fo very my that we could not
October. / r     •        r •
Im^mmj approach them. There is alfo a fpecies of antelope, which the Dutch call Eland*. Towards the evening we came to the mouth of the Palmita* Rivier.  The rains to the northward had
the hairs on the bread are curled; that it has a beard like a goat; and that it is fo fwift, that the Namacques call it Baas, or the Mafter-courier. They diftinguifh this from the Gnou, or I fliould think it the fame animal."
* " This animal has thick firait horns, marked with two prominent fplral ribs near two-thirds of their length; fmooth towards their end : fome are above two feet long : thofe at the Britifh Mufeum, with part of their fkin adhering, are black. Head of a reddifh color, bounded on the cheeks by a dufky line. Ears of a middling fize. Forehead broad: nofe pointed. On the forehead, a ftripe of long loofe hairs, and on the lower part of the dewlap, a large tuft of black hair. Along the neck and back, from head to tail, is a black fhort mane : the reft of the body of a blueifh grey, tinged with red. Space between the hoofs and falfe hoofs black. The tail does not reach to the firft joint of the leg ; is covered with fhort cinerous hair ; the end tufted with long black hairs. The hoofs are fhort, furrounded at their junction with the legs with a circle of black hairs. The height to the moulders is five feet: is thick bodied, and ftrongly made: but the legs are flender. The females are horned like the males. This fpecies wants the finus lacrymalis. The Caffres call this fpecies Empophos. If this is the Pacaffe, as there is reafon to fuppofe it to be, they vary in color; the Pacaffe being white, fpotted with red and grey. The Dutch of the Cape call it the Eland or Elk. M. de Buffon, by miftake, calls this the Coudous, which he ought to have beftowed on his Condoma. It inhabits India, Congo, and the fouthern parts of Africa. Frequents mountanous parts of the country. They live in herds j but the old males are often folitary. They grow very fat, especially about the breaft and heart: fo that they are eafily caught: and when purfued, will fometimes fall dead in the chace. Are flow runners : when roufed, always go againft the wind, nor can the hunters (even if they front the herd) divert them from their courfe. The flefh is fine-grained, very delicious, and juicy.  The hide is tough : the Hottentots make tobacco-pipes of the horns.
There is another fpecies with firait horns nine inches long, pointing backwards, with two jfpi-ral ribs : cars broad : color a deep tawny : beneath each eye a white fpot : fides moft Angularly marked with two tranfverfe bands of white, croffed by two others from the back to the belly : the rump with three white lines pointing downwards on each fide: the thighs fpotted with white: tail ten inches long, covered with long rough hairs. Inhabits the plains and woods of Senegal, living in large herds. This is called at the Cape, the Bonte Bock, or fpotted goat." Pennant, vol. I. page 71.
t A plant common in that river*
taifed it fo hidi, and the courfe was fo rapid, that it was with *777-
° m x October.
difficulty we were able to fwim through it. We travelled the w-v-w whole night in very heavy rain, with lightning and loud claps of thunder. About two in the morning we came to the Knof-lick* Kraals Rivier, which takes its name from a fpecies of wild garlick. It was fo very dark, that in the firft attempt I made to pafs the river, I found myfelf out of my depth ; and with great difficulty got out: it was therefore neceffary to remain where we were till day-light. We made feveral fruitlefs effays to kindle a fire ; but every thing was fo wet, that the utmoft we could produce was fmoke. The rain continued very hard ; and in this uncomfortable fituation, our anxiety for the light of day may be eafily conceived. We had now been twenty-four hours without eating ; as foon as we could fee, therefore, we crolTed the river ; and at nine in the morning came to the houfe of Michael Otto, where we were hofpitably received; got to bed, and had our clothes dried ; and after a few hours ileep took fome refreihment. This place is fituated between the Hottentot tlolland mountains, and a fteep fandy pals called, the How Hook ; which may be faid to be a continuation of the ftrong pafs which I mentioned before. It produces corn and very good wine ; much better than is generally found to the eaftward of the Hottentot mountains. The foil is of a fine rich clay; but the pafture is coarfe, and feldom agrees with cattle, and leaft of all with fheep. Fruit is, in general, about three weeks later in ripening here, than about the Cape. At two we proceeded on our journey, through the Flow Hook, collecting plants
* Garlick,
oaober *n onr roac^ Here we met with a gentleman who had been ^—-v—j at Zwellendam, and was on his return to the Cape. He informed us, that the day before he had parTed a place where they killed a large lion, and warned us to be on our guard, as more of thofe fierce animals were ftill lurking about the fame place : for lions are found between this place and the Cape, which is diftant about one hundred Englifh miles. After parting with our friend, we crofTed the Bott Rivier, and about eight in the evening came to the Swart. Berg, or Blackhill, where there is a warm bath. The company have erected a houfe for the reception of thofe who chufe to ufe the bath ; but travellers generally refide at a farm-houfe? which is little more than a mile diftant. The hill, whence the fpring iffues, is compofed of a fpecies of granite, with much iron. The bath, ufed by the Europeans, is in temperature an hundred and thirty-three degrees by Farenheit's thermometer ; but may be reduced to any degree of heat by a ftream of cold water, which runs clofe by the place: at a little diftance from this there is another for flaves and Hottentots> the heat of which is one hundred and fifteen degrees. We found feveral people here from the Cape, ufing the water of the bath, which they believe to be a fpecific in all cafes. The country about it is very pleafant; and there is excellent pafture for cattle. This diftri<9: abounds in game; and particularly in that fpecies of antelope called by the Dutch, Bonta Bock*. Partridges are alio very numerous here. From this place we directed our courfe eaftward, leaving the river Zondereynds Berg on our left hand, paffing
* 11 The Buntebok, fomewhat lefs, but more corpulent In proportion than the Harrbeeft, is the Antilope Scripta of Pallas, and the Guib of Euffon,"   Sparman, 2d edit. vol. I. p. 130.
feveral pleafant forms, and in a day's journey arrived at the be firft Hottentot" Kraal, which confided of fix huts built in a
* Speaking of the Hottentots, Mr. Sparman, fays, " With regard to their perfons, they am as tall as moft Europeans; and as for their being in general more flenderr this proceeds from their being more fiinted and curtailed in their food, and likewife from their not ufing themfelves to hard labour. But that they have fmall hands and feet compared with the other parts of their bodies, las been remarked by no one before, and may, perhaps, be looked upon as a characterise mark of this nation.
The root of the nofe is for the moft part very low, by which means the difhmce of the eyes from each other appears to be greater than in Europeans. The tip of the nofe likewife is pretty flat. The iris is fcarcely ever of a light colour, but has a dark brown call, which fometimes approaches to black.
Their fkin is of a yellowifh brown hue, which fomething refcmbles that of an European who has the jaundice in a high degree ; however, this colour is not in the leaft obfervable in the whites of the eyes. One does not find fuch thick lips among the Hottentots as among their , neighbours the Negroes, the Caffres, and the Mozambiques. In fine, their mouths are of i middling fize, and almoft always furnifhed with a fet of the lineft teeth that can be feen; and, taken together with the reft of their features, as well as their fhape, carriage, and every motion^ in fhort their tout enfemble, indicates health and content, or at leaft an air of fans fouci. At the fame time, this carelefs mien difcuvcr* uidika uf alanitj axid resolution; quahties which the Hottentots, in fact, can exhibit upon occafion.
Their heads one would fuppofe to be covered with a black, though not very clofe, frizzle! kind of wool, if the natural harfhnefs of it did not fliow, that it was hair, if poffible, more woolly than that of the negroes. If in other refpects there fhould, by great chance, be obferved. any traces of a beard, or of hair on any other parts of the bodv, fuch as are fecn on the Europeans, it is, however, very trifling, and generally of the fame kind as that on the head."
He then refutes an erroneous opinion concerning the men being different from ethers, and addsj " The women have no parts uncommon' to the reft of their fex." With refpeir. to their drefs, and method of painting themfelves, he remarks ; u the latter (if painting it may be called) coniifts in befmearing their bodies all over moft-copioufly with fat, in wliich there is mixed up a little foot. This is never wiped off; on the contrary, I never faw them ufe any thing to clean their fkins, excepting that when, in grcafmgthe wheels of their waggons, their hands were befmeared with tar and pitch, they ufed to get it off very eafily with cow-dung, at the fame time rubbing their arms into the bargain up to the moulders with thiscofmetie: fo that as the duft and other filth, together with their footy ointment and the fweat of their bodies, muff neceffarily, notwithstanding it is continually wearing off, in fome meafure adhere to the (kin, it contributes not a little to coi.ceal the natural hue of the latter, and at the fame time to change it from a bright umber-brown to a brownilh-yel'ow colour obfeured with filth and naftinefs.
Befides the pleafure the Hottentots enjoy in befmearing their bodies from head to foot, they likewife perfume themfelves with powder of herbs, with which they powder both their heads and bodies, rubbing it in all over them when they befinear themfelves.   The odour of it is at the
lame
^777-   circular form. Thefe people hire themfelves, as they are wanted,
October. 1     1 ' J 7
—v—' to the Dutch,   At a little diftance from this is a place bclong-
fame time rank and aromatic (Narcotico-feu Papavcrino-fpirans) and feems to come neareft to that of the poppy mixed with fpices. The plants ufed for this purpofe are different fpecies of the Diofma, called by the Hottentots Bucku, and confidered by them as poffeiTing great virtues in curing diforders. Some of thefe fpecies are very common round about the Cape ; but one particular fort, which I am told grows about Goud's-Rivier, is faid to be fo valuable, that no more than a thimble full of it is given in exchange for a lamb.
The Hottentots, with their fkins befmeared with greafe and foot, and Bucku-powder, are by this means in a great meafure defended from the influence of the air, and may in a manner reckon themfelves dreiTed. In other refpects, both men and women are wont to appear cpjite undreffed; indeed, I may fay naked, except a trifling covering, with which they always conceal part of their bodies.
With the men this covering confifts of a bag or purfe made of fkin, hanging quite open, the hollow part of which feems defigned to receive that which with us modefty requires to be concealed ; but as this piece of furniture is only fattened by a fmall part of its upper end to a narrow belt, in other refpects hanging quite loofe, it is but a very imperfect concealment; and when the wearer is walking, or otherwife in motion, it is none at all. They call this purfe by the Dutch name of Jackall, the name of an animal of the fox kind common in that country, as it is almoft always prepared of the fkin of this creature, with the hairy fide turned outward.
As another covering, which decency requires of the men, we ought perhaps to confider the two leather ftraps, which generally hang from the bottom of the chine of the back down upon the thighs; each of them being of the form of an Ifofceles triangle, with their points or upper ends fattened to the belt juft mentioned, and with their bafes, at fartheft three fmgers broad, hanging carelefsly down. Thefe ftraps have very little drefling beftowed upon them, fo that they make fomewhat of a rattling as the Hottentot runs along; and probably by fanning him, fervc to produce an agreeable coolnefs. The only and real intention, however, of this part of their drefs, is faid to be to clofe a certain oritice when they fit down. They are at that time likewife brought forwards, fo as to cover the little flap above defcribed; for, faid they to me, thefe parts fhould by no means be uncovered when one fits, efpecially at meals. Neverthelefs, I obferved them fometimes negledtthis decent cuftom.
Among the Hottentots, as well as in all probability among the reft of Mankind difperfed over the whole globe, we muff acknowledge the fair fex to be tlie moft modeft; for the famales of this nation, cover themfelves much more fcrupuloufly than the men. They feldom content ihemfelves with one covering, but almoft always have two, and very often three. Thefe are made of a prepared and wcll-greafed fkin, and are fafiened about their bodies with a thong, almoft like the aprons of our ladies. The outermoft is always the largeft, meafuring from about fix inches to a foot over. This is likewife generally the fined: and moft fhowy, and frequently adorned with glafs beads ftrung in different figures, in a manner that fhows, even among the unpoiifhed Hottentots, the fuperior neatnefs of the fair fex in works of ornament, as well as their powers ai invention and their difpofition to fct off their perfons to the belt advantage,
The
m? to the company, called the Twer Hock, where we flayed J777-
.  , i • Octobe
all night.   In the morning we proceeded to the eaftward, 1—
The outermoft apron, which is chiefly intended for fhow and parade, reaches about half way down the thighs. The middle one is about a third, or one half lefs, and is faid by them to be neceffary by way of referve, and as an additional entrenchment of modefty, when their gala-garment is laid afide. The third, or innermoft, which is fcarcely larger than one's hand, is faid to be ufeful at certain periods, which are much lefs troublefome to the fair fex here than in Europe. All thefe aprons, however, even to that which is decorated with beads, are not lefs befmeared and greafy than their bodies.
In fine, the garment worn by the Hottentots for covering their bodies is a fheep-fkin, with the woolly fide turned inwards; this pelliife, or elfe a cloak made of fome fmaller fur, is tied forwards over the breaft. When the weather is not cold, they let it hang loofe over their moulders in a carelefs manner, when it reaches down to the calves of the legs, leaving the lower part of the legs and thighs bare ; but in rainy and cold weather they wrap it round them; fo that the fore part of the body likewife, is in fome meafure covered with it as far as below the knees.
As one fheep-fkin alone is not fufficient for this purpofe, there is a piece fewed, or rather fattened on with a thong, finew or catgut, to the top of each fide. In warmer weather they wear this cloak fometimes with the hairy fide outwards, but in that cafe they oftner take it off entirely and carry it on their arms. In general, th* Hottentot. <i0 not huxdaa tbenafelvjes with a great many changes of their cloaks or Kroffes, (as they call them in broken Dutch) but are content with one which ferves them at the fame time for clothing and bedding ; and in this they lie on the bare ground, drawing themfelves up in a heap fo clofe, efpecially when the weather is cold, that this Krofs (as they call it) or Karofs, is quite fufficient to cover them.
The cloak, or Karofs, which is ufed by the women for the fame purpofe, does not differ from thofe ufed by the men in any other refpee-f, than that the women have a long peak to their Karoffes, which they turn up, forming with it a hood or little pouch, with the hairy fide inwards, In this they carry their little children, to which they now and then throw the breaft over then? ihoulders, a practice that likewife prevails with fome other nations.
The men in general wear no peculiar covering on their heads. I fcarce remember to have, feen above two, that had a cap made of greafed fkin, the fur of which had been taken off in the preparation. Thofe who live neareft to the colonifts, fancy the European hats, wearing them flouched all round, or elfe with one fide turned up.
The women in like manner frequently go bare-headed. When they cover their heads, it is with a cap in the form of a (hort troncated cone. It is made without any feam, of the fedgment of fome animal's ftomach, and is as black as foot mixed up with fat can make it. Thefe are frequently fo prepared, as to look as if they were fhaggy, and others again to refetnble velvet, and upon the whole make a tolerably handfome appearance.
Over this cap they fometimes wear another ornament, confiding of an oval wreath, or, if the reader pleafes, a crown made of a buffalo's hide, with the brown hair upwards. This is about four fingers in height, and furrounds the head fo as to reach a little way down upon the
forehead,
^777-   through a flat country covered with srrafs, having: the river
October. ^ i
i—i—i Zondereynd* on our left hand.   In the afternoon we law fe-
* Endlefs River,
forehead, and the fame depth in the neck behind, without covering the upper part of the cap above defcribcd. Both the rims of this wreath, as well as the lower one on which it refts, as the upper one, are always fmooth and even, and each of them fet with a row of fmall (hells, of the C.yprea kind, to the number of more than thirty, in fuch a manner, that being placed quite dole to each other, their beautiful white enamel, together with their mouths, is turned outwards. Between thefe two rows of fhells run one or two more in a parallel line, or elfe waved or indented in various fancies. It may eafily be imagined, what a pretty effect thefe fhells have, projecting from the brown fur of the buffalo's fkin, and at the fame time, with what additional charms a greafy Hottentot dame appears in one of thefe caps and wreaths, which, however, is to the full as greafy as herfelf.
The ears of the Hottentots are never adorned with any pendant or other ornament hanging from them, any more than the nofe, as they both are among other favages ; this latter, however, is fometimes, by way of greater ftate, marked with a black ftreak of foot, or, more rarely indeed, with a large fpot of red-lead; of which latter, on high days and holidays, they likewife put a Jit tie on their cheeks.
The necks of the men are bare, but thofe of the women are decorated with what is, in their opinion, a great ornament. It confifts of a thong of undreffed leather, upon which are ftrung eight or ten fhells. Appearing collectively in the form of a necklace, they certainly adorn the greafy part they are hung upon, though perhaps not in proportion to the price at which they are obtained ; for thefe fhells are commonly fold for not lefs than a fheep a piece, as it is faid they are to be had no where elfe than on the moft diftant coaft of Caffria.
Another ornament in ufe with both fexes, is rings on their arms and legs. Moft of thefe rings are made of thick leather ftraps, generally cut in a circular fhape, which by being beat and held over the fire, are rendered tough enough to retain the curvature that is given them. It is thefe rings that have given rife to the almoft univerfaily received notion, that the Hottentots wrap guts about their legs, in order to cat them occafionally. The men wear from one to live or fix of thefe rings on their arms, juft above the wrift, but feldom any on their legs. The matrons of a higher rank frequently have a confiderablc number of them both on their arms and legs, efpecially on the latter, fo that they are covered with them from the feet up to their knees. Thefe rings are of various thickneffes, viz. fometimes to that of a goofe-quill, and fometimes two or three times that fize. Now and then they are made of pieces of leather, forming one entire ring, fo that the arms and feet xnuft be Put through them when the wearer wifhes to put them on. Upon the legs they are ftrung on, fmall and great, one with another, without any-peculiar nicety; and are fo much larger than the legs, as to make oif and get twitted, when the wearer walks or is otherwife in motion.
It
veral herds of Bonta Bocks and Zebras*; and in many places 0^*r the track of lions.   In the afternoon we croffed the Breed
It may eafily be imagined, that thefe rings give the good Hottentot matrons a world of trouble, as well in the wear as in the preparation; and at the fame time are not a little clumfy and ponderous, not to mention feveral other inconvenienci.es. But fuch is the peculiar turn of mankind, that from the Hottentot, as unconftrained as rude in his manners, to thofe nations which carry the arts and fciences to the higheft degree of perfection, people are univerfally apt to fall into fuch modes of drefs, as arc not only ufelefs, but likewife in a great meafure imprifon their limbs and bodies.
Rings of iron or copper, but efpecially of brafs, of the fize of a goofe-quill, are confidered as genteeler or more valuable than thofe made of leather. They are, however, fometimes worn along with thefe latter, to the number of fix or eight at a time, particularly on the arms. The girls are not allowed to ufe any rings, till they are marriageable. A traveller, that was palfing through the diftricl: of Zwellendam, endeavoured to ailail the chaftity of a Hottentot girl, about hxteen or feventeen years of age, but in every other refpecf. quite a woman : it is faid, however, Ihe refufed his prefents and offers, principally for this reafon, that the old people in her Craal had not yet inverted her with the privilege of wearing rings. Whether this fame law prevails in every Craal, I cannot pretend to fay; but it docs not feem extremely probable to me, that the girls in every craal are fo obedient (.<_> the laws.
The Hottentots feldom wear any (hoes. (Thofe that are in ufe with the Hottentots hereabouts, as well as a great many more of their countrymen, are of the form represented by Mr. Sparrman.) The fame are worn likewife by moft of the African peafants, and, as I have fince heard, by the Efthonians and Livonians, and alfo by fome Finlanders ; fo that I cannot fay for certain, whether they are the invention of the Hottentots, or brought to them by the Dutch.
The
* Mr. Pennant defcribes it, " With a fhort erect mane. The head, and body are ftriped downwards with lines of brown, on a pale buff ground : the legs and thighs ftriped croffways. I ail like that of an afs, furnifhed with long hairs at the end.   Size of a common mule.
This moft elegant of quadrupeds : inhabits from Congo and Angola, acrofs Africa, to Abyf-finia, and fouthward as low as the Cape. Inhabits the plains, but on fight of men, run into the woods and difappear. Are gregarious, vicious, untameable, ufelefs : vaftly fwift: is called by the Portuguefe, Burro di Matta, or wild afs.
The Quacha is ftriped like the former on the head and body ; but with fewer lines. The flanks fpotted ; the rump plain; the ground color of the head, neck, body and rump, a bright bay : the belly, thighs and legs white, and free from all marks.
This fpecies has hitherto been fuppofed to have been the female of the zebra ; but later obfervations prove that the male and female zebra are marked alike. This differs likewife in being thicker and ftronger made, and in being more tract able j for inftance, one had been fo far broken as to draw in a cart."
D
oaobe Rivier, or Broad River, where there is a punt or ferry. Here '—the river Zondereynd joins the Broad River, which, winding
The leather of which thefe fhoes is made is undreffed, with the hairy fide outwards ; and undergoes no other preparation, than that of being beat and moiftened. If it be of a thick, or flout fort, as for example, of buffaloe's hide, it is befides kept fome hours in cow-dung, by which means it is rendered very foft and pliable. Afterwards fome kind of greafe is made ufe of for the fame purpofe. The fhoes are then made of this leather in the following manner: they take a piece of leather of a rectangular form, fomething longer and broader than the foot of the perfon for whom the fhoes are intended. The two foremoft corners are doubled up together, and fewed down, fo as to cover the forepart of the foot. This feam may be avoided, and the fhoes may be made much neater at the toes, by fitting immediately over them a cap taken from the membrane in the knee joint of the hind leg of feme animal. Now, in order to make this piece of fkin or leather rife up to the height of an inch on both fides of the foot, and clofe it in neatly, it is pierced with holes at fmall diflances all round the edge, as far as the hind-quarters, and through thefe holes is paffed a thong, by which the rim is drawn up into gathers; farther, in order to make ftrong hind-quarters, the backpart of the piece of leather is doubled inwards, and then raifed up and preffed along the heeh The ends of the thong, or gathering-ffring, are then threaded on both fides through the upper edge of the hind-quarters to the height of about two inches; they are then carried forwards, in order to be drawn through two of the above-mentioned holes on the iniide of each rim. They are then tied over the inftep, or, if it be thought neceffary to tie the fhoe ftill falter, they are carried crofTways over the inftep, and fo downwards under the thong, which comes out from the hind-quarters, then upwards again over the ankle, and even round the leg itfelf, if the wearer chufes.
Shoes of this kihd are certainly not without their advantages. They fit as neat upon the foot as a flocking, and at the fame time preferve their form. They arc eafily kept foft and pliable, by confiantly wearing them. Should they at any time grow rather hard above the edge, this is eafily remedied by beating them and greafing them a little. They are extremely light and cool, by reafon that they do not cover fo much of the foot as a common fhoe does. They wear very well, as they are without any feam, and the foles, or rather bottoms of the fhoes, are both tough and yielding. As fhoes of the common tanned leather are burnt up, as it were, and are apt to flide about in the fcorching African fands, and at the fame time are eafily torn in a ftony and rocky foil, thefe field fhoes, as they are called, made of almoft raw leather, are much more durable. Thefe may be likewife had at a much inferior price, as the leather ufed in the making of them is entirely undreffed ; and a man can make himfelf a pair of them in the fpace of an hour or two, Some advantage, efpecially with regard to ceconomy, would, in my opinion, accrue, if the ufe of thefe fhoes was, in fome meafure, introduced amongft us, particularly in fummer-time. Tofailors they would feem, as being very light, to be particularly ufeful. I have brought home with me a pair of them, that I wore in my expedition into the country, that they may ferve for a model, in cafe any body Ihould be inclined to have a pair made by way of
making
to the fouth ward, empties itfelf by the Pott Ber2 in Strugs* *777-
1 J . 0 o October.
Bay ; and foon after, croffing the ferry, we arrived at Zwel-    -»—'
* Oftrich.
making a trial of them.   Whatever is ufeful, whether it comes from Paris or the country of the Hottentots, alike defervesour attention and imitation.
The Hottentots who live in thefe parts, or within the boundaries of the Dutch colonies, fel-dom make ufe of any weapons. Here and there, indeed, a man will furnifh himfelf with a javelin, by way of defence againfi the wolves: this is called a Haffagai.
Their habitations are as their drefs, and equally adopted to the wandering paftoral life they lead in thofe parts. In fact, they fcarcely merit any other name than that of huts; though, perhaps, as fpacious and eligible as the tents and dwelling-places were of the patriarchs of old, at leaft they are fufficient for the Hottentot's wants and defires ; who may therefore be confider-ed as a happy man, in being able in this point likewife fo eafily to fatisfy them. The great fimpiicity of them is, perhaps, the reafon, why in a Hottentot craal, or village, the huts are all built exactly alike ; and that one meets there with a fpecies of architecture, that does not a little contribute to keep envy from infinuating itfelf under their roofs. In fact, the 'equality of fortune and happinefs in fome meafure enjoyed by thefe people, cannot but have a lingular effect in preventing their breafts fivM« uc;„e JiAurk«i ty thic harmful pafiion.
Every hut is difpofed in the following manner. Some of them are of a circular, and others of an oblong fhape, refembling a round bee-hive or a vault. The ground-plot is from eighteen to twenty-four feet in diameter. The higheft of them arc fo low, that even in the center of the arch, it is fcarcely ever poffible for a middle-fized man to Hand upright. But neither the low-nefs of the hut, nor that of the door, which is barely three feet high, can perhaps be confidered as any inconvenience to a Hottentot, who finds no difficulty in ftooping and crawling on all fours, and who is at any time more inclined to lie down than ftand.
The lire place is in the middle of each hut, by which means the walls are not fo much cxpofed to danger from fire. From this fituation of their fire-place, the Hottentots likewife have this additional advantage, that when they fit or lie in a circle round the fire, the whole company equally- enjoys the benefit of its warmth.
I he door, low as it is, is the only place that lets in the day-light; and, at the fame time the only outlet that is left for the fmoke. The Hottentot, inured to it from his infancy, fees it hover round him, without feeling the leaft inconvenience arifing from it to his eyes: while, rolled up like a hedgehog, and wrapped up fnug in his (kin, he lies at the bottom of his hut, quite at his eafe in the midft of his cloud, excepting that he is now and then obliged to peep out from beneath his fheep-fkin in order to ftir the fire, or perhaps to light his pipe, or elfe fometimes to turn the freak he is broiling over the coals.
The materials for thefe huts are by no means difficult to be procured ; and the manner of putting them together being both neat and inartificial, merits commendation in a Hottentot, and is. very jfuitable to his character.   The frame of this arched roof, as I have defcribed it
above,.
oaobe'r Ienc^en> which is the residence of a Lend Droft, or chief juftice* It is fituated under the chain of mountains which begin near the bay Alagoa, their direction weft north-weft. The climate in this country differs much from that at the Cape ; for it is feldom that the fouth-eaft winds blow hard ; but there are often ftorms from the north-weft. This being the time when the boors* meet for exercifing, we remained here a few days ; during which time I made feveral excurfions along the mountains and through the woods. At this time very few of the arboreous plants were in flower, fo that I could
* Farmers,
above, is compofed of flender rods or fprays of trees. Thefe rods, being pravioufiy bent into a proper form, are laid, either whole or pieced, fome parallel with each other, others croflwifei they are ftrengthened, by binding others round them in a circular form with withies. Thefe withies, as well as the rods themfelves, are taken, as well as I can recoiled, chiefly from the Cliffortia Conoides, which grows plentifully in this country near the rivers. Large mats are then laid very neatly over this lattice-work, fo as perfectly to cover the whole. The aperture which is left for the door is clofed, whenever there is occafion for it, with a fkin fitted to it, or a piece of matting. Thefe mats are made of a kind of cane or reed. The reeds, being laid parallel to each other, are fattened together with linews or catgut, or elfe fome kind of packthread, fuch as they have had an opportunity of procuring from the Europeans. They have it, therefore, in their power, to make their mats as long they chufe, and at the fame time as broad as the length of the rufh will admit of, viz. from fix to ten feet. This fame kind of matting is now made ufe of likewife by the colonifts, next to the tilts of their waggons,, by way of preventing the fail-cloth from being rubbed and worn by them, as well as of alfiit-ing to keep out the rain.
When a Hottentot has a mind to take his honfe down and remove his dwelling, he lays all his mats, fkins, and fprays on the backs of his cattle, which to a ftranger makes a monftrous, unwieldy, and, indeed, ridiculous appearance.
The order or diftribution of thefe huts in a craal or clan, is moft frequently in the form of a circle with the doors inwards; by this means a kind of yard or court is formed, where the cattle is kept on nights. The milk, as foon as taken from the cow, is put to other milk which is curdled, and is kept in a leather fack j of this the hairy fide, being confidered as the cleanlier, is turned inwards: fo that the milk is never drank while it is fweet. In certain northern diftriets, fuch as Roggeveld, or Bokkeveld, where the land is, as it is called Carrow, or dry and parched, the Hottentots, as well as the colonifts, are fhepherds."
not preferve any perfect fpecimens. The Piper Cordifolia is very common in the woods, I found fome beautiful fpecimens of the Helenidas and Phylicas. The whole country affords good pafture for cattle, and produces plenty of corn and wine: the foil is a hard yellowifh clay intermixed with rotten rocks.
We left Zwellendam on the twentieth, and direfted our courfe about eaft north-eaft, towards the Reed Valley. About four in the afternoon we crofted the Buffalye Agte* Rivier, fo called from its being formerly a noted place for hunting buffaloes ; but they feldom make their appearance at prefent in this part of the country. Here the river winds to the fouth-ward^ and joins the Breed Rivier. Towards the evening we loft our road, and with fome difficulty got to the Reed Valley. This place belongs to the Dutch company, and is employed for breeding cattle; moft of their draught oxen are reared here ; it alfo produces wood. It is diftant from Zweilcndiim about twelve miles,, and from the Cape one hundred* and twenty. Here we overtook our waggon, which was fo much injured by the journey, that we were neceflarily detained a few days in order to repair it. During our ftay, I added much to my collection, and amufed myfelf by joining in the chafe of the Bonta Bocks, which are found in this place in great numbers, as. well as of the Capra Dorcas of Linnanis, and the Equus Zebra. The Reed Valley likewife produces great plenty of wild fowl, fuch as partridges of feveral kinds.
* -Agfe, toliunf.
0T777jr We ftaid here with the hofpitable Mr. Tunyirs, the compa-u^^j ny's overfeer, till the twenty-fifth, and proceeded to the farm of Mr. Jacob Van Renan, which is the moft beautiful of any I ever faw in this country; and, from the induftry and ingenuity of Mr. Van Renan, I am well convinced, it will be brought to produce every thing as good as at the Cape.
On the twenty-fixth, we proceeded to Groot Faders Bofch, or Grand Fathers Wood, where we were obliged to ftop for a few hours on account of the rain. We fent our waggon the beft road to the Plata Kloaf, and went a nearer way our-felves, which, however, was fo very flippery that we could not poflibly ride. We crofted the Doven* Hocks Rivier, and late in the evening came to a farmer's houfe, fituated clofe to the pafs, or Kloaf. This diftricl: is called the Land of Egypt, and apparently contains about thirteen farms, which are dif~ perfed at the diftance of from four to fix miles from each other: here we were regaled with excellent fruit, particularly oranges, and fome European fruits. Our waggon not arriving detained us till the twenty-eighth, which gave me an opportunity of examining the country, where I found many curious plants. I obferved, that in confequence of the rains, the white ants (with which the whole country abounds) were all out, and with wings. Several of the Hottentots, and {laves, were collecting thefe infers, which I found, upon inquiry, were- intended for food. Prejudice, indeed, alone has prevented the Europeans from making a fimilar ufe of them ; for, in my
, * Pigeon-houfc River,
different journeys in this country, I have fometimes been 0^b7e*r# under the neceffity of ufing them as food, and found them '—-—1 far from difagreeable.   Thefe infe&s are very particularly de-fcribed by the late Mr. Smeathman, under the name of Termites. Great differences are obferved in the white ants, according to the foil and climate in which they are found.   In the Eaft Indies they prove extremely deftru&ive to the wood; but at the Cape they are never known to injure any vegetable fub-ftance, except the grafs in thofe places where they moft abound. It is not by devouring the grafs that they occafion its deftraction, but by railing a number of hills which impede the pro- . grefs of vegetation.    In my obfervations on India, I fhall mention them more particularly.  We now proceeded to leave this uncommonly delightful and fertile territory, extending along the fouth fide of the range of mountains, and terminating
near the Krome* Rivier, to enter into a country which is, perhaps, one of the moft barren in the world. This is called, the Channa Land; and derives its name from a fpecies of Mezem-bryanthimum, which is called Channa by the natives, and is exceedingly efteemed among them. They make ufe of it both in chewing and in fmoaking ; when mixed with the Dacka is very intoxicating, and which appeared to be of that fpecies of hemp which is ufed in the Eaft Indies by the name of Bang.
We were fupplied on the morning we fet out with frefli oxen, to take our waggon over the mountain, which proved fo rugged, that our waggon overfet; but it received no damage.
* Crooked River,
TRAVELS   IN AFRICA. I777-   Upon reaching; the fummitof the mountain, we were prefented
October. .
-\—^ on the fouth with a view of the fea, and the beautiful country we had lately left; and on the north we faw the Channa Land and Karo. After the heat of the day had abated, we directed our courfe eaft north-eaft, through a very rugged country, leaving the large chain of mountains on our right hand ; and, at the diftance of about forty miles, we obferved another chain on our left. Though this country has a very barren appearance, yet it abounds with plants, fuch as the Euphorbium, Craffula, the Mezembryanthimum, and many fpecies of Geranium. The climate differs much from that of the oppofite fide of the mountains ; it feldom rains here, except in the fummer, when it is accompanied by thunder. The foil is of a yellow loam, intermixed with fragments of rotten rocks. In the evening we came to a place, called Klip Rivier, or Rocky River, where we remained all night; and in the morning pur-chafed a fheep, which coft us fix Dutch (hillings, equal to three Englifh. We purfued our journey eaftward, and at three in the afternoon came to a peafant's houfe. The people, on feeing us, went away, as they were not accuftomed to ftrangers; and it was with fome difficulty that Captain Gordon could per-fuade them to return to their own habitation. He informed them, that we were come from the Cape, and the next village being too far diftant, requefted the favour of fuffering us to remain there for the night: this they granted; and, notwith-Handing their former fhynefs, behaved to us with the greateft hofpitality.
Early in the morning, of the thirtieth, we proceeded eaft half north, through an extremely rugged path; and, about one
In the afternoon came to the Great River, where we dined »777«
7 Odtobc;
under the fhelter of a Mimofa. After dinner we eroded the '—r— river, and towards the evening came to a fecond, called Tfu-nice Cama by the Hottentots ; and by the Dutch, Gouds Rivier, or Gold River, which has a foutherly direction, and empties itfelf to the weft ward of Catharina Bay in the Indian ocean. This river is dangerous for flrangers to crofs, from the number of large pools which formerly had been inhabited by the Hippopotamus Amphibius, though thefe animals have now deferted their ancient residence, and are feldom met with in this place. We continued travelling in the night through a country of which both of us were totally ignorant, till about one o'clock in the morning, when obferving no figns of inhabitants, we agreed to reft till morning at the fide of a fmall brook, which we found to be Slang Rivier, or Snake River. In the courfe of this day we travelled about forty miles.
On the thirty-firfl, we directed our courfe eafterly, through
a barren country, which afforded lefs appearance of vegetation
than any we had hitherto feen.   In the afternoon we came to
a fmall eftablifliment, fituated under the Atquas Kloaf, on a
narrow brook, named the Saffron River, where we refled all
night ; and next day we received frefli oxen, and directed our
courfe north north-eaft, towards the Elephants River. At
noon we arrived at a place called Poverty, fituated on the
fame river, where we relied during the heat of the dav. In
the afternoon we croffed it at a place where it is about half a
mile broad. The banks of this, as well as of moll other rivers
in this country, are covered with a fpecies of Mimofa, and
E
1777-  different fpecies of Rhus.  We continued our lourney till late
Oaober. 1  . , i    r .
i—v-*j in the evening, when our waggon overturned, from a precipice upwards of fifty feet high, which compelled us to remain till day-light. A draughtfman of Captain Gordon's, who was in the waggon, had his thigh much bruifed ; but was not fo much injured as might have been expected from fuch a fall. We left our baggage lying at the foot of the precipice till the following day; and obferving a houfe on the oppofite fide of the river, we agreed to flay there the remaining part of the night. At day-light we examined our waggon, and found every thing perfectly fafe. The whole of this country is extremely barren, except a few farms which are fituated on fmall dreams of water, and produce corn, though not in great abundance. This uncommon degree of fierility mull be principally afcribed to the want of water ; for the fupply of which the inhabitants wholly depend upon the rain; there being very few natural fprings, and the water which thefe afford is in general very brackifh.
We began the month of November, by directing our courfe eaft by fouth, and at eleven came to the houfe of an European, where we refted all day. Here I made fome addition to my collection of plants, which continued in tolerable order.
From this place our courfe was eafterly, during the whole of the next day, leaving the Comnaflia* Berg on our right hand, and the Swart Berg on our left. We found here fome hot
* A fpecies of Rhus*
baths, to which we were directed by obfervinff two farmers '777-
7 ' , November.
making life of them : one of the men had been bit by a make, 1—-» and was confiderably recovered, though his leg remained much fwelled, and could not bear any fatigue. Thefe baths are impregnated with a large quantity of iron ; and all along the mountains are very thick ftratas of that ore. The thermometer rofe in the different baths, from one hundred and five to.one hundred and eight.  In the afternoon we purfued our journey, the Comnallia Berg bearing north-weft by north to fouth-eaft by fouth, and ending fouth-weft by fouth, about two leagues from the baths.   We found here many Oftriches and Koedoes, one of the latter we fliot; but, being on our journey, we had no time to make any ufeful obfervations upon it.   Thefe animals are about the fize, or rather larger than our deer, and of a moufe colour, with three white ftripes over the back : the male has very large twifted horns ; but the female has none: their fleiTi is good for food.   In the evening we arrived at a place called by the Hottentots, Tfimeko, or Oftrich Leg. Bread is unknown to the people in this part of the country, who chiefly fubfift on flefh and milk: they are of a very hof-pitable difpofition, and very happy to fee ftrangers.   In this place 1 found fome very beautiful fpecies of Polygata and Ge-rania, ike.
On the third, we were fupplicd with a team of frefh cattle ; and, after travelling the whole day, towards the evening, we obferved frefh traces of lions, which excited both our attention and vigilance. Captain Gordon and I rode before the waggon, with our guns loaded, left we fhould be affaulted by thefe fe-
rocious animals. About midnight we came to a lake of brackifh water, where we agreed to remain till morning. We fecured our cattle in the ufual manner of the country, by tying them round the waggon, and making fires on the outfide all round us, to prevent an attack from the wild beafts. This bufinefs was no fooner performed, and our little caravan left to the enjoyment of fafety, than we were furprifed by a noife of fplalliing in the water, as if fomething were coming towards us. Captain Gordon fuppofed it to announce the approach of wild beafts; and indeed we had nothing elfe to expect, as this country abounds with them, and particularly with lions. After fome time palled in great anxiety, we at length found the noife proceeded from a calf which had ftrayed from a herd of cattle belonging to an European who lived about eight miles diftant from this place. Being now relieved from our fears, we endeavoured to get fome reft; but pafled the remainder of the night very difagreeably, from a heavy ftorm of thunder and lightning, which was attended with much rain,
Early in the morning we proceeded on our journey through an extenfive plain, called the Beer* Valley ; and about nine in the morning we came to fome miferable huts in the flile of the Hottentots. Here we found an old German, who had attached himfelf to one of the Hottentot tribes, and had refided with them for about twenty years. His garment was compofed of flieeps fkins, fimilar to thofe which are worn by the natives; and his method of living was the fame.   This man
* Bear.
told me, that every three or four years he went to the Cape N^777-with a few cattle for fale, and with the produce of his goods «j purchafcd powder, lead, and trinkets for his Hottentots. This place abounds with lions more than any other of the inhabited parts of this country. The old German (whofe name was Nuwenhoufen) had lliot feveral before we arrived; fome of which we faw of a very large fize.
As I was not in a good' ftate of health, and my collection, much increafed, I determined to part with my friend Captain Gordon, who proceeded on towards the Snew Berg, or Snow Mountain, and I remained a few days for the recovery of my health. The good old German furnifhed me with a hut during my flay, and behaved with great hofpitality. On the eleventh, I took leave of mv hoft, and returned to Tfimeko, where I met with Mr. Lyfter, furveyor from the Cape, with other gentlemen, who were making a furvey of that country for the government, which they extended to the Great Fifh. River that divides the Caffres from the Hottentots.. I added confi-derably to my collection at this place, and made fome ftay for the purpofe of examining the mountains, which feemed covered with many uncommon plants ; though there is great danger of travelling on account of wild beafts, as well as of the Boihmens*, who often come down, waiting an opportu-
* The Bofhiefmen, fays Mr. Sparrman, " particularly fuch as live round about Camdebo and Sneevrwberg, are fworn enemies to the pafioral life. Some of their maxims are, to live on hunting and plunder, and never to keep any animal alive for the fpace of one night. By this means they render themfelves odious to the reft of mankind, and are purfued and exterminated like the wild beafts, whofe manners they have afTumed.   Others of them again are kept alive,
and
1777-   nity of plundering trie inhabitants of their cattle.   In one of my excurfions I fell in with a party of thefe favages ; but they
and made (laves of. Their weapons are poifcned arrows, which, mot out of a fmall bow, will fly to the diftance of two hundred paces ; and will hit a mark with a tolerable degree of certainty, at the diftance of fifty, or even a hundred paces. From this diftance they can by Health, as it were, convey death to the game they hunt for food, as well as to their foes, and even to fit large and tremendous a beaft as the lion: this noble animal thus falling by a weapon which, perhaps, it deipifed, or even did not take notice of. The Hottentot, in the mean time, concealed and fafe in his ambufh, is abfolutely certain of the operation of his poifon, which he always feledts of the moft virulent kind; and it is faid, he has only to wait a few minutes, in order to fee the wild beaft languifh and die..
I mentioned that their bows were fmall j they are, in fact, hardly a yard long, being at the fame time fcarcely of the thicknefs of an inch in the middle, and very much pointed at both ends. What kind of wood they are made of I cannot fay, but it does not feem to be of a remarkably elaftic nature. The firings of the bows that I faw were made fome of them of finews, others of a kind of hemp, or the inner bark of fome vegetable, and moft of them are made in a very flovenly manner; which fhows, that thefe archers depend more on the poifon of the weapons, than on any exactnefs in the formation of them, or any other perfection in them.
Their arrows are a foot and a half long. They arc made of a reed one foot in length, which, at the bafe, or the end that receives the bow-ftring, has a notch of a proper fize to fit it. Juft above this notch there is a joint in the reed, about which firings made of finews are wound, in order to ftrengthen it. The other end of the reed armed with a highly polifhed bone, five or fix inches long. At the diftance of an inch or two from the tip of this bone, a piece of a quill is bound on very faft with finews. This is done, in order that the arrow fliall not be eafily drawn out of the flefh; and thus there may be fo much the longer time for the poifon, which is fpread on of a thick confifience like that of an extract, to be diffolved, ar.d infect the wound.
It is not common, however, for an arrow to be headed in the manner above-mentioned, with a pointed bone only; this latter being ufually cut off fquare at the top, and a thin triangular piece of iron fixed into it. As the bone has no cavity whatever, I do not profefs to know what animal it is taken from. In the ftate in which it is feen, as it makes part of the arrow, it is of a dark brown colour, full of fmall grooves and ribs, and does not appear ever to have been as white as ivory ; though, for one of the arrows which I brought with me, it would feem as if ivory had been really made ufe of. Hence we may conclude, that on fuch arrows as are headed with iron, the bone is employed chiefly for giving this weapon a kind of weight and poife j and likewife, that thefe'arrows coft the Hottentots a great deal of labour.
Their quivers are two feet long and four inches in diameter. If one may form any conclu-fion from thofe I have feen, and from two that I have brought home with me, they are made of a branch of a tree hollowed out; or, ft ill more probable, of the bark of one of thefe branches taken off whole and entire, the bottom and cover to which are compofed of leather.   On the.
outfide
behaved very well, only making figns for tobacco, which I 1777-
,   ,       . c>     b . November.
gave them; and they in return offered me fome honey which
outfide it is bedaubed with an un&uous matter, that grows hard when dry. Both the quivers I brought with me, are lined about the aperture with a ferpent's fkin; and, as I was told, with the fkin of the yellow ferpent, which is confidered as the moft venemous of any in that country. Befides a dozen of arrows, every quiver contains a ilender hone of fand-ftone for whetting the iron head upon, and a brufh for laying on the poifon, together with a few wooden fticks, differing in thicknefs, but all of the fame length with the arrows. For what ufe they are de-figncd, I am entirely ignorant. The poifon is taken from feveral different kinds of ferpents,. the more venomous the better; whether their arrows are to be employed againft their foes, or are only defigned for mooting game ; for, as I have obferved before, the Hottentots know very Well, that taken internally it is quite harmlefs.
The dwellings of thefe foes to a paftoral life are generally not more. agreeable, than their maxims and manners. Like the wild beafts, bufhes and clifts in rocks by turns ferve them in-ftead of houfes; and fome of them are faid to be fo far worfe than beafts, that their foil has been found clofe to their habitations. A great many of them are entirely naked ; but fuch as have been able to procure the fkin of any fort of animal, great or fmall, cover their bodies with it from the fhouldcrs downwards as far as it will reach, wearing it till it falls off their backs in rags. As ignorant of agriculture as apes and monkies, like them they are obliged to wander about over hills and dales after certain wild roots, berries and plants, (which they eat raw] in . order to fuftain a life that tins miferable food would foon extinguilh and deftroy, were they ufed ■. to better fare.
Their table, however, is fometimes compofed of feveral other difiies, among which -may be reckoned the larva; of infects, or thofe kind of caterpillars from which butterflies are generated ; and in like manner a fort of white ants, (the termes) graihoppers, fnakes, and fome fort of fpi-ders. With all thefe changes of diet, the Bolhiefman is neverthelefs frequently in want, and to fuch a degree, as to wafte almoft to a fhadow. It was with no fmall aftonifhment, that I. for the firft time faw in Langc Kloof a lad belonging to this race of men, with his face, arms, legs and body fo monftroufiy fmall and withered, that I could not have been induced to fuppofe but that he had been brought to that ftate by the fever that was epidemic in thofe parts, had I not feen him at the fame time run like a lapwing. It required but a few weeks to bring one of thefe ftarvelings to a thriving ftate, and even to make him fat; their flomachs being ftrong enough to <ligeft the great quantity of food with which they are crammed, as they may rather be faid to fcolt than eat; it fometimes happens, indeed, that they cannot long retain what they have taken in ; but this circumftance, it is faid, does not hinder them from beginning again upon a frefh (core.
The capture of flaves from among this race of men is by no means a difficult matter, and is effected in the following manner. Several farmers, that are in want of fervants, join together, and take a journey to that part of the country where the Bofhiefmen live. They themfelves, as Well as their Lego-Hottentots, or elfe fuch Bofhiefmen as have been caught fome time before, and have been trained up to fidelity in their fervice, endeavour to fpy out where the wild Bofhiefmen
*777-   they had collected in the mountains ; they were armed with
November.       - •       i • 1     i i
hows and arrows, and the captain who was with them had a Haffagai or fpear in his hand, and heavy ivory rings on his right arm. On my return to the farmer's houfe, I found them to be of the tribe of Chonacquas.
On the evening of the twenty-third, one of the fervants. informed us, that he had feen a lion before fun-fet, about a thoufand yards from the houfe.   Expecting a vifit from him
men have their "haunts. Tins is belt difcovered by the fmoke of their fires. They are found in focietics from ten to fifty and a hundred, reckoning great and fmall together. Notwithftand-ing this, the farmers will venture on a dark night to fet upon them with fix or eight people, which they co ltrive to do, by previoufly ftationing themfelves at fome diftance round about the Craal. They then give the alarm by firing a gun or two. By this means there is fuch a con-fternation fpread. over the whole body of thefe favages, that it is only the molt bold and intelligent among thein, who have the courage to break through the circle and (teal off. Thefe the captors are glad enough to get rid of at fo eafy a rate, thofe that are ftupid, timorous, and ftruck with amazement, and who, in conference of this llupor, allow themfelves to be taken and carried into bondage, anfwering their purpofe much better. They are, however, at firft, treated by gentle methods ; that is, the victors intermix the fiireft promifes with their threats, and endeavour, if pofiible, to fhoot fome of the larger kinds of g:une for their prifoners, fuch as buffaloes, lea-cows, and the like. Such agreeable baits, together with a little tobacco, foon induce them, continually cockered and fea'ied as they are, to go with a tolerable degree of chearfulnefs to the colonill's place of abode. There thefe luxurious feafts of meat and fat are exchanged for more moderate portions, confuting for the moft part of butter-milk, frumenty, and hafty-pndding. This diet, neverthelefs, makes the Bofhiefman fat, as I faid before, in a few weeks. However, he foon finds his good living embittered by the maundering and grumbling of his matter and miftrefc. The words T'guzeri and T'gaunatfi, which, perhaps, are beft translated by thofe of Young Sorceror and Imp, are cxprcffions which he muft frequently put up with, and fometimes a few curfes and blows into the bargain; and this for neglecf, remilfnefs or idlenefs : which laft failure, if it cannot be faid to be born with him, is however in a manner naturalifed in him. So that, both by nature and cuftom, detefting all manner of labour, and now, from his greater corpulency, becoming ftill more flothful, and having bcfides been ufed to a wandering life, fubjee"t. to no control, he moft fenfibly feels the want of his liberty. No wonder then, that he generally endeavours to regain it by making his efcape: but what is really a fubjeet for wonder is, that, when one of thefe poor devils runs away from his fervice, or more properly bondage, he never takes with him anything that docs not belong to him,"
FIRST   JOURNEY. 33 in the night, every preparation was made for defence : but _ _ *777-
. . . November.
next morning we were informed of its having been at a houfe *—*s belonging to an old woman, about four miles diftant, and that it had deftroyed fome of her cattle. I went to the place, and we fet a fpring gun in the path where we obferved it had paffed : on the night of the twenty-fifth we heard the report of the gun, and next morning found the animal dead. . It proved to be a lionefs, and not very large ; the dimenfions were,
Feet. Inches.
The length, from the nofe to the point of the tail,   8   9* *
Ditto, of the head,       -       -       -       - ini
Ditto, of the tail,       ----- 3
Ditto, from the neck to the tail,         -          - 4  11 f
Height before,          -          - 3 8
Length of the foot from the claw to the heel, 8
Ditto, of the claw ftretched out,       -       -      - 3 $
Length of the ears,           -          -         - 7 §
Of the tufks, 2
Diftance between the eyes,        - 6
Circumference of the head between the eyes and ears, 2 41
On the third of December, I made an excursion to one of the moft agreeable places, in point of fituation and fertility, that I had yet feen in Africa. It is fituate at the fcurce of the Elephants River; it-produces plenty of corn with the leaft cultivation imaginable. After the river has overflowed the banks, the natives fow the grain ; and the climate is lb favourable, that it is always ripe here a month fooner than at
F
the Cape. It alfo produces good fruit, fuch as Oranges, Figs, Mulberries, Peaches, Apricots, Almonds, &c. This place is called the Good Hope.
From the Good Hope, I directed my courfe fouth-weft, and pafled the hot baths. On the tenth I faw a number of Oftriches, with which animal this country abounds. After a very fatiguing march, I arrived at the houfe of one Folkenhager, where I refted till the thirteenth, when two peafants came up who were on their way to the Cape; they offered me a place in their waggon, which I thankfully accepted, my horfe being quite tired with the heavy roads I had already pafled. We continued our journey along the banks of the Elephants River; and on the feventeenth arrived at the Atquas Kloaf, where we refted the eighteenth ; and here I collefted many different forts of plants, particularly Aloes and Mezembryan-thimums.'
The Atquas Kloaf, which we paffed on the nineteenth, is a very rugged path ; but afforded me great variety of plants. On the twentieth, we reached a place called the Sure Fla£ta, when I parted with my fellow travellers, and proceeded towards the Hottniqua Land, in order to examine the extenfive woods upon the range of mountains which we had juft pafled. At night I came to the houfe of Mr. Bota, a very obliging man, who furnifhed me with a guide the next morning ; and, at the clofe of that day's jdurney, I found myfelf by the White Elfe River ; which takes its name from a tree called, by the Dutch, White Elfe.
FIRST   JOURNEY, 3; On the twenty-fecond, I adventured into the woods with a VTX777«
J 7 t November.
young man of the houfe where I lodged: we took with us  —~» fome dogs, expecting to meet Tigers.   The woods are very thick, and produce fome of the tallefl trees I ever beheld; at the very tops of which were a variety of party-coloured birds, particularly the Tarakoo, and many other fmall ones of equal beauty.   The mountains are extremely fteep,  and many of the moft {lately trees grow out of the naked ftrata of the rocks.   I found in this wood, as in all others of that country, great abundance of the Piper Cordifolia, and the trees moft of them new.   Thefe woods have their beginning to the north of Moflel Bay, and extend about one hundred and twenty miles to the eaft, ending at a place called the Sitfl-camma.    Between the woods and the Indian ocean, lies an extenfive plain well inhabited by Europeans, who traffic moftly in wood which they bring in planks to the Cape. Though this plain is covered with grafs, yet it is fo unwholefome for cattle that very few can be kept.  It produces corn and wine, though of a very inferior fort.
As the country from this to the Cape is well known and defcribed in both Mr. Mafon's and Dr. Sparrman's narratives, any farther account of it would be only repeating what has already been publillied by thefe two gentlemen. I returned to the Cape the fame road that I travelled with Captain Gordon, and arrived on the thirteenth of January, one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-eight, at the Cape Town.
t  37 ]
SECOND JOURNEY.
Tyger Berg—Stillen Bofch—The Erf Rivier—Pafs Hottentot Holland's Kloaf —Come to the river Zondereynd: the impracticability of crofjing it—Remain here for feveral days—Vifit Catharina Bay—Proceed towards the Groena Kloaf—The mountains covered with fnow—In confequence of the weather we return to the eafiward, and crofs the Plata Kloaf into the Channa Land—Arrive at a hot bath—Country abounding with beafis of prey—Mr. Van Renan and the author lofe the waggon—Travel through the Karo ; advancing towards the Coud Bokke Veld—Whitfon Berg—Unlucky River—Arrive at a brackijh fountain—Vift two of the boors that live in the Karo during the feafon in which the mountains are covered with fnow—Obfervations on a difeafe among the jheep in this country—Account
of a WOman Who had been bitten  by <x frzakc--^Arrive /it Rhinoceros Bofch
with difficulty—Get up the Rogge Veld Berg : foil and climate—Some obfervations refpecting the highlands in this country—Herds of ^uachas— Borders of the country inhabited by the Boflmen—Vift the Hentum—Dif-order among the horfes peculiar to this country—The Amyrilas Difiicha, poifonous and fatal to horned cattle—Obfervations on the fudden change of the climate at the Hentum Berg—Proceed towards the Bokke Land Bergen : the foil and productions—Proceed towards the Great River—Arrive at the Great Thorn River : much frequented by Lions—Pafs a place called the Lions Den—The water very bad in this country—Come to Black Thorn River—The Small Nimiqua Lmtd—Arrive at the Green River, where we meet with fome Nimiqua Hottentots: fome account of their maimers and cufloms—Afcend a fleep mountain : obferve the Atlantic ocean to the wejl-ward about thirty miles—Arrive at the Coufe, or Sand River—An account of the Alee Dichotoma—Pafs the Copper Berg—Meet fome of the Bof-mcn : their way of living—Enter a fandy defart plain ; where we have great difficulty in crofjing—Much diflrefjedfor want of provifons—Some account of the Great River—The mountains and productions of that country— The poifons ufed by the Hottentots—Difagreeable ftuation of Mr. Van Renan
in crofjing the river—Hottentots eat locufls—Account of the quadrupeds that chiefly inhabit this part of the country—Mr. Van Kenan kills a Camelopar-dalis; the greatefl part of which is carried off by the Lions—Some account of the fudden overflowing of the river, and the great heat of the climate—■ Shoot an Hippopotamus: fane account of the manner in which the natives catch thefe animals—Zebras Fountain—Difficulties in crofjing a fandy plain Send for affiftance—Arrival at the Brack Fountain—Small Copper Berg Fountain—Vift the copper mines—Camis Berg, the fummer refidence of mojl of the boors in the Nimiqua Land—Proceed to Cafpers Kloaf, and thence towards the Bokke Veld—Intention of crofjing the country from the Bokke Veld to Caffraria—Reafons for not being able to perform that journey— Vifit part of the Bojhmens Land—Arrive at the Elephants River—Continue our journey to the Heer Lodfeiment—Picquet Berg—Arrive at the Berg River ; thence proceed to the Cape Town—Arrive 20th November 1778.
AFTER remaining four months at the Cape, I fet out, in May, upon a fecond journey into the country. In this excurfion I was accompanied by a young gentleman, who, though an inhabitant of the Cape Town, was pofleffed of feveral farms in the interior parts of the country.
In the morning of the twenty-fecond of May, we left Ronda Bofchie, a houfe belonging to my companion's father, from whom I had always experienced the utmoft friendfhip during my refidence in this country. We proceeded through a large fandy plain to the Tyger Berg, where we dined. The country had at this time a very bufy appearance, as the farmers were all engaged in plowing, and fowing their grain. In the afternoon we continued our journey to the fouth-eaft ; and that night refted at the houfe of a Mr. Cluta, near Stillen Bofch. On the twenty-third, we proceeded to the Erft Rivier, and
made a fhort excurfion to the Stillen Bofch Mountains, where I collected many beautiful plants, particularly Ericas and Oxa-lias, with which the whole face of the country was beautifully decorated. The land is, in this part, uncommonly fertile, producing plenty of corn and wine, and all the fruits which are found at the Cape.
The next day we directed our courfe eaft fouth-eaft, to the Hottentot Holland's Kloaf, where there is a fteep path acrofs the large chain of mountains (mentioned in my firft journey) which begin at Cape Falfe, and continue in a north-weft direction, fending out feveral branches into the interior parts of the country. Thefe mountains are often covered with fnow during the winter months: this being the beginning of that fcafon, I was in hopes of difcovering many plants which might endure our climate, and be rendered ufeful: this deiire was a principal motive for my fetting out at this time, when travelling is attended with peculiar danger, from the fudden fwelling of the rivers. In the afternoon we reached Knoflick Kraals Rivier, which was impaffable till the twenty-fixth, when we left this place, and proceeded to the warm bath, which is about iixty miles from the Cape.
We continued our journey to the Tyger Hock, and hunted a fpecies of antelope called Bonta Bock, which we killed. On our route we met with two peafants, who had travelled from a great diftance, and were on their way to the Cape. They informed us that, the country they had paffed was parched tip. for want of rain ; and that it was with great difficulty they
could procure water for their cattle, though in this part the rivers were fo fwoln as to be impalTable.
On the twenty-eighth, we directed our courfe eaftward ; but the inclemency of the weather obliged us to flop at the firft houfe we could find ; which was about eight miles from the Tyger Hock, where we flayed all night, and the next day advanced towards the Breed Rivier, where it is joined by the river Zondereynd; but were compelled to flop, from the impracticability of crofting the river. We were not the only travellers who were detained from the fame caufe ; many waggons were ftationed on the oppofite fide, which had been there for fome days, waiting till the water fhould fubfide. There is a ferry at this place, but it is of no ufe when the river is rapid. The man, who had the charge of the ferry, was an old German, and had lived between the two rivers for many years. He very kindly propofed to get us acrofs the river Zondereynd ; and offered us the ufe of his houfe till the river became paffable for the waggon. We left the Hottentots to take care of the baggage, and thankfully accepted of his offer. During our flay here, the thermometer was often at forty degrees, with much rain and fleet; and the mountains were covered with fnow. By the eighth of June, we crofTed with great difficulty, and proceeded to Zwellendam, where we flayed all night.
We proceeded from Zwellendam to Buffalye Agte Rivier, where I remained fome days at the houfe of Mr. Van Renan, and added greatly to my botanical collection.
Mr. Van Renan furnifhed us with a team of frefh oxen, and accompanied us himfelf, on the fixteenth, to the mouth of the Gouds Rivier. I vifited Catharina Bay, which is about two hundred and eighty miles from the Cape. The bay is wide, and opens from the fea, weft by north ; which expofes Chips very much to the fouth-eaft winds. About twelve years before, a French ihip was loft in this bay. The adjacent country is rather barren, and unfavourable to fhips which put in for refreshment, being very thinly inhabited. Finding but few plants in flower, we returned to the houfe of Mr. Van Renan, to confider of the beft route to be taken; at length we agreed to pafs the large chain of mountains to the weft-ward, by a pafs called Groena Kloaf, which we were informed Was the iafeft and moft agreeable road at that leafbn0
In confequence of this refolution, we directed our courfe to the weftward, and on the twenty-feventh reached the houfe of one Jacobus Bottn, a man of ninety years of age, a period ieldom attained in this country ; where, though the people are in general very healthy while young, and the climate very favourable, they do not ufually enjoy a protracted exiftence.
On the twenty-eighth, we continued our route to the weft, along the chain of mountains, which I mentioned as covered with fnow. We found the day exceedingly cold, with heavy rains, and a ftrong north-weft wind. The thermometer, at eight in the morning, was at forty-three degrees; at
noon, forty-feven; at four in the afternoon, forty-four; and
G
at eight in the evening, forty-two. At night we came to a farm on the Breed Rivier.
The weather was fo bad on the twenty-ninth, that we could not proceed ; but during the day I was able to make an excurfion towards the hills, where I found fome very curious plants.
A gentleman, who came from the weftward, advifed us not to proceed any farther in that direction, as it would not be poffible to crofs the rivers for many days, the mountains being covered very deep with fnow ; the melting of which would keep them very high. The accounts he gave us were fo unfavourable, that I agreed to return and to crofs the mountains at another place to the eaft ward, called Plata Kloaf, where we arrived on the eighth of July.
We croffed the mountains with fome difficulty, on the tenth, and entered a country, (which I had occafion to notice in my firft journey) called Channa Land. From this place we proceeded to the weftward, and in the courfe of our day's journey I added greatly to my collection of the Mezembryan-thimum tribe. In the evening we came to a hot bath, which appeared to be much the fame in its qualities with thofe already mentioned ; only more temperate. The heat of the bath, by the thermometer, is one hundred and feven ; and where it fprings out of the rock, one hundred and ten. We flayed here a few days, and difpatched our waggon early in the morning of the thirteenth, having a very long day's jour-
ney before us. About ten in the morning, we overtook our baggage, and were informed by the driver, that two Lions had paffed about an hour before. This part of the country abounds with beafts of prey, which renders travelling extremely dangerous. The ground is covered with fhrubs about four feet high, called by the natives Guerrie, a fpecies of Royena, which affords a covert fivfficiently fhady to conceal Lions, Tigers, and the variety of animals which fport, during the day, in the more uninhabited parts, and at night commit depredations on the adjacent farms. The foil of this country is a loofe mouldy clay, fo little favourable to fertility, that though this was the beft feafon, there was fcarcely a blade of grafs to be feen. I found many fucculent plants in flower; and alfo a fpecies of the Geranium Spinofum, which I had never feen before.
After a very hard day's journey, we arrived on the thirteenth at a ftream of water, where we refted the remaining part of the night. We had much rain, with loud claps of thunder. The thermometer, at eight in the evening, was at forty-feven degrees.
The next morning, finding a Hottentot Kraal about two miles off, I hired one of the inhabitants as a guide ; for the whole of our party were entirely unacquainted with this part of the country. My companion, Mr. Van Renan, and myfelf, left the waggon, and purfued a different direction, in order to fee as much of the country as poffible, and to collecl: plants. About four in the afternoon, we thought it was time to look
after the waggon. We travelled till nine, through a very wild country, inhabited only by beafts, without difcovering the object of our fearch. I then afcended the hills, in hopes of difcerning a fire on fome of the adjacent heights ; which is the ufual fignal made by travellers in Africa when they are loft, or feparated from their companions. Our labours were3 however, ftill unfuccefsful, fo that we agreed to remain, till day-light, at the fide of a fmall fountain ; though we were far from being in either an agreeable or fafe fituation, having no fire-arms, and no poflibility of lighting a fire. Numbers of Hyenas howled about us the whole night; and in the morning, we found that a large Tiger had been within ten yards of us. The thermometer was down at thirty-nine, and the mountains were covered with fnow.
The following day we proceeded in fearch of our people, whom we difcovered about noon. We refted a few hours, and in the afternoon continued our journey, about fix miles to the weftward, where we ftayed all night. Our oxen and horfes were faftened to the waggon, and fires were, as ufual, made around us.
We next directed our courfe through a dry barren country, and, in the morning, came to a miferable hovel belonging to an European, where we ftayed all night. Next day we proceeded through what the Dutch call Karo, which is a very extenfive plain, interfperfed with fmall fucculent and fruitefcent plants. This defcription may be applicable to many parts of Africa ; particularly thofe which are fituated to the
north of the Cape.   We travelled all this day without finding
a drop of water; and in the evening arrived at a houfe called <*—*
the Staart, which is pleafantly fituated on the banks of a
fmall river.   Here we amufed ourfelves with {hooting wild
ducks, and a fpecies of Reed-hens, which we found in great
plenty ; and fo little accuilomed to purfuit, that they were not
in any degree fhy.
On the nineteenth, we proceeded along the Verkered Valley ; which is thus denominated, from the river which courfes through it taking a direction different from that of any other in this country. At the time w^e were there it was quite full. We were now advancing towards the Coucl Bokke Veld, or the Cold Country of Antelopco $ th© mountains of which were covered with fnow ; which frequently remains upon their fummits till the month of November.
On the twentieth, we arrived at a houfe fituated on the north-eaft fide of the Whitfon Berg, or White Hill, where we remained all night. The people informed us of the danger of crofting the Great Karo, not only from its being a defart country, but alfo from parties of the Bofhmen Hottentots, who were at war with the Dutch ; and were often lurking about to fell in with Europeans. They gave us inftances of perfons having been wounded by their poifoned arrows; and that they were very feldom cured. Notwithftanding their good advice, We determined to crofs the country, keeping as much on our guard as poftible. On the twenty-firft, we dire&ed our courfe north ; and in the evening took up our lodgings on the fide
of a fmall ftream of water, called Thorn River ; which takes its name from a fpecies of Mimola that grows on its banks,
I made an excurfion, in the morning, through the country, in fearch of plants ; and in the afternoon joined the waggon. In the evening we found water at a place, called Porde Berg, .or Horfe Mountain, where we refted all night. The next morning we obferved a fire about half a mile from us, which we imagined had been lighted by a party of wild Hottentots. My companion and I agreed, however, to fee who they were ; and found them to be the fervants of a Dutchman, who lived near the Cape. They had a large flock of fheep under their charge. We found them fo well acquainted with the country, that I hired one of them as a guide. We then continued our journey about twenty miles, and at night arrived at Unlucky River ; fo called, from a man's having been devoured, fome years ago, on its banks, by a Lion.
On the twenty-fourth, our road lay through a dry fandy -country, with a very naked appearance. The hills were com-pofed of horizontal ftratas of a foft mouldering kind of ftone. At noon we were informed by a peafant, who was on his way to the Cape, that if we did not proceed on our journey with all poflible expedition, we fhould not be able to come to any place where there was water. And that travelling at night was dangerous, from the number of Lions which inhabited that part of the country. After a very fatiguing march we arrived at a brackifh fountain, where we refted all night,
The following day we continued our route to the northward, through much the fame kind of barren foil we had paffed on the day preceding. Wherever we paffed, we obferved the frefh print of Lions and Tigers ; and early next morning Mr. Van Renan faw a Lion within fifty yards of him ; which we afterwards went in purfuit of; but the track brought us to a clump of thick thorny lhrubs, which prevented us from proceeding farther.
On the twenty-feventh, we vifited two of the boors who re-fide in the Karo during the time when the fnow lies upon the Rogge Veld Mountains.  This praaice is not, however, general, feveral of them remain in their habitations, expofed to all the inclemencies of the weather.   The principal caufe of the migrations from the mountains to the Karo, is a want of firewood, which is very fcarce on thefe heights.   Thole of them that remain, in general, employ their fervants, before the winter begins, in carrying wood from the bottom of the mountain, which is certainly a very laborious talk.   There are fome to whom thefe temporary removals are far from appearing a great evil.   Indeed, feveral of the inhabitants of this diftrift are fo much in the habit of changing their abode, that rather than undergo the trouble of making a proper provifion for this dreary feafon, they would travel for many miles.   As this de-fart part of the country is inhabited only during a fhort part of the year, very few houfes are-to be found in it.   Moft of the inhabitants live in huts fimilar to thofe of the Hottentots ; fome dwell in the tent that covers their waggon ; and, even in this fituation, the boors have the appearance of being the
48 TRAVELS   I N   AFR1C A.
j7uiy' naPP^eft °f a^ human beings. When a ftranger vifits them, *—1 he is treated with the greater!: hofpitality ; and every thing they have is at his command* This, in general, is the cafe throughout the whole country. We proceeded on our journey this day only about ten miles ; and in the evening came to a very mean cottage under the mountain* The inhabitants were pofiefTed of a very large herd of cattle, particularly fheep ; but at this feafon many die of a difeafe, which they term, the Burning Sicknefs, in which they lofe moft of their hair. At this place is a paflage over the mountain ; but there was now ■no poffibility of crofting it; we, therefore, proceeded to the weftward, by the direction of the boors, where they affured us we ftiould find a much better pafs. At night we came to a fmall ftream of water, where we refted. Here I collected many curious plants of Geraniums, Ixias, Moraeas, Gladiolufes, &c. and alfo a moft beautiful fpecies of Euphorbia.
After leaving this place, we directed our courfe north by weft, through a hilly country. On our way we faw feveral huts, which we fuppofed to belong to Hottentots ; but they proved fuch as I before clefcribecl, the winter refidence of the Dutch boors. At one of thefe huts was an European woman who had been wounded in the arm with a poifoned arrow. Great pains had been taken to cure her, but to no purpofe; for at different periods of the year, an inflammation came on which was fucceeded by a partial mortification. She informed me, that the wound was not long in healing up; but that in two months afterwards there was a certainty of its breaking out again ; and this had been the cafe for many years.
At night we arrived at a place called Olive Bun% where we J7j£ refted. The man, to whom this place belonged, was the only one, of a whole family, who efcaped from a party of the Bofh-men Hottentots. Thofe favages had attacked them a few years before, and put to death the mother, brother, and filter of this perfon.
On the thirtieth, we proceeded to the northward; and, in the evening, came to a farm called Rhinoceros Bofch, from its having been much frequented by thefe animals fome years ago ; though very few are now found in this part of the country. During the night we had much wind and rain ; and in the morning the thermometer had fallen to forty degrees.
Purfuing our journey, north by weft, we had the P^ogge Veld Berg on our right hand. On our way we met one of the inhabitants of the mountain, who promifed to aflift us with a team of frefh oxen to carry us to the fummit, which was very difficult of afcent. In the evening, we refted by the fide of the Rhinoceros River; but as we had no fhelter from the inceftant hail and rain, and were unable to keep our fire lighted, our fituation was extremely uncomfortable. In this condition we remained during the whole of the following day.
On the fecond of Auguft, the promifed afliftance arrived in order to condud us up the mountain; but it was with the ut-nioft difficulty we could reach the fummit, the path was fo very fteep and rugged. At eight, in the morning, I found the thermometer at thirty degrees; and the top of the mountain
H
I778-   fo wet, that our oxen and horfes went often up to their bellies
Augufl. ' r
*—v—» in the low ground. In the afternoon we came to the houfe of our friend, who had afforded us fo much afliftance, where we flayed all night, and were hofpitably entertained. Though the foil appears to be very good here, yet it feldom produces any confiderable crop of grain. This proceeds not only from blights, which are very frequent here ; but fometimes from heavy (howers of hail, which break down the corn about the time that it is ready to be cut. The locufls alfo are fatal enemies to all vegetation, and deflroy every thing in their courfe, not fparing even the fruit trees. The foil of this mountain is of a reddifh clay ; in many places containing a quantity of fa-line matter, fo as to be quite perceptible to the tafle. It is neceflary to obferve, that towards the interior parts of this country, or rather the centre of the peninfula, the country does not decline in a north-weft direction, at leaft not in proportion to the immenfe mountains which progreftively prefent themfelves to view: for inftance, though the afcent of the mountain called, the Rogge Veld, is not lefs than two thou-fancl feet from the Karo, the defcent is not more than one thoufand, before we come to a fecond, which appears of equal height with the former. In the detail of my journey through this country, it is my intention to pay a particular regard to this circumftance.
From this place we proceeded nearly north by weft, through a very hilly country. In the evening, of the third, we arrived at a miferable hut, which we found belonged to an European who lived with the Hottentots ; his name was Swertz. He
Amarylis 1)1 stic ha,
was not at home ; but as we could not advance any farther, for want of water, we remained there during the night. The only tbing we could procure at this place was milk, for which we gave the Hottentots fome tobacco.   Early next morning, we travelled through a dry barren country which lies between the Rogge Veld and Hentum.   At noon we croffed the Rhinoceros River, where we law feveral large herds of Quachas ; and, in the evening, came to a very decent houfe, where we were well received.   This houfe is fituated on the very borders of the Bofhmens Land ; and is frequently attacked by that tribe of Hottentots.   As we had undergone many inconveniences for fome time before, from the feverity of the weather, and the want of fhelter in many places through which We had paffed, I determined to reft here a few days, and to vifit the Hentum and other countries adjoining.   There is a very good houfe under, or rather near the foot of Hentum Berg, belonging to the father of my companion.   The next morning I therefore proceeded thither, and left my oxen to reft, while I made fome fliort excurfions.   In this part of the country there are many things worthy of obfervation. The horfes in this diftria are yearly attacked by a diforder, for which it is very difficult, if not impoflible, to account. Certain it is, that the utmoft care, the feeding of them with corn, and keeping of them in ftables, as much from the air as pof-fible, does not operate as a prefervative from this difeafe ; fo that thofe who have other firms near, remove their cattle till this feafon is paffed.   Horned cattle are expofed to equal danger from the Amaryllis Difticha, or Poifon Bulb, with which the country is covered ; they are extremely fond of its leaves,
Auguft which generally prove fatal. At this place I added much to «—y—i my collection, particularly fome plants of the fhrub kind, now in flower on the top of the Hentum Mountain. This eminence is very lofty ; and, at the feafon when I vifited it, was covered with fnow, frozen into a folid body of ice. I found a difference of thirty degrees between the thermometer here and in the vale below. In the (hade it was down to twenty-fix.
We proceeded, on the ninth, towards the Bokke Land, which is nearly weft by fouth, from the Hentum; and, in two days, arrived at a place called the Tom, or Tower, which is a hill of a pyramidal figure, where we ftayed all night.
On the eleventh, we paffed the Baboons Hill; the road was fo very bad, that it was with great difficulty we could keep the waggon upon its wheels. Here I collected many beautiful plants, which were quite new to me. This night we ftayed at a brackifh river ; and the following day were detained till noon, having miffed our oxen. Here I vifited a Hottentot Kraal, which was about a mile diftant; and, as I propofed travelling over the Small Nimiqua Land, I hired one of the Hottentots, who fpoke Dutch, as an interpreter. In the afternoon we continued our journey as far as Thorn River, where are many Lions, fo that we were obliged to obferve the precautions of tying our oxen, and making fires.
On the twelfth, we defcended the Bokke Veld Berg, which was fteep, but not very high, and came to a farm be-
longing to Mr. Van Renan. In this journey from the Han-turn, we fhortened our diftance from the Cape about fifty miles.
The following day we proceeded fo the northern extremity of the mountain, which is quite level on this fide, and almoft perpendicular for more than two thoufand feet. The foil is of a white fandy mold, intermixed with large fragments of a fort of frec-ftone. This part of the country produces very little corn: the pafture is efteemed good for cattle ; but, in the dry feafon, they are much diftreffed for want of water. The people here behaved with the utmoft hofpitality ; and one of them, Jacobus Ryke, accompanied me to the Great River.
On the eighteenth, we accompanied our waggon in its de-fcent down the mountain, which was really fteep and dreadful. About ten in the morning we got into a low level country, covered with fucculent plants ; and the Geranium Spinofum in great abundance. This day we {hot at feveral of a fpecies of Antelope, with long fharp ftrait horns, called Gems Bock,* and killed two.   Thefe animals are among the largeft of the
* u It is defcribed with ftrait flender horns, near three feet long, annulated above half of their length : the reft fmooth. Space between horn and horn at the points fourteen inches. At their bafe is a black fpot 5 in the middle of the face another ; a third falls from each eye to the throat, united to that in the face by a lateral band of the fame colour : the nofe and reft of tne face white. From the hind-part of the head, along the neck and top of the back, runs a narrow dufky line of hair?, longer than the reft, and ftanding above them, dilating towards the rump. Sides of a light reddifh afh-colour j the lower part bounded by abroad longitudinal dufky band, reaching to the breaft.
Belly, rump, and legs white ; each leg marked below the knees with a dufky mark. Tail covered with long black hairs ; from the rump to the end of the hairs, two feet iix inches long.
The
T778- Antelope kind at the Cape : and in general their flefh is excel-—.—~> lent food. This night we flept under a large Mimofa tree, and the next morning went forward to the northward. About nine we arrived at the Great Thorn River, where we refted a few hours during the heat of the fun. This river, as I before ob-ferved, is much frequented by Lions and other ferocious animals ; yet, notwithftanding the number and the fiercenefs of thefe formidable creatures, there are very few inftances of people being devoured by them. In the afternoon we continued our journey through a level country, having the Bofhmens' Land, or Long Hill, on our right hand, and the Karo Berg on the left. On our way we faw feveral Elks, Eyelands, Sec. The country is in moft parts covered with a very curious fort of cubic iron ore. On digging down, I found the cubic ore formed in a fort of free-ftone. In the evening we came to a place, called the Lion's Den, or Lieur Coile; this is a large hollow rock, where we found water juft fufficient to fupply ourfelves and our cattle.-
Early in the morning I made an excurfion to the weftward in fearch of plants, while my two companions, Mr. Van Renan and Jacobus Ryke, directed their courfe to the northward in purfuit of game, At noon I returned to the Lion's Den, and thence proceeded to the northward, directing my fervants to follow we with the waggon. After travelling about eight miles,
The length of the fkin, which I examined, was above fix feet fix inches.
Inhabits Syria, Arabia, Pcrfia, and India; ./Egypt, ./Ethiopia, and the Cape of Good Hope, where it is called Gems-bock, or Chamois."   Pennant, vol. I. p. 67.
I may add, that it has remarkable long fharp horns, and when attacked by dogs, will fit on its hind quarters and defend itfelf. Paterfon.
I found my companions at a fmall fountain, broiling fome white ^77^ ants, which we eat; and indeed they are by no means difa- '— greeable. Here I found a new Ixia, with a long fpike of crimfon flowers, I think it was one of the moft beautiful I had ever found: being rather apprehenfive of the Bolhmen, we lighted no fires ; but in the night we faw feveral to the eaft and north-eaft, which we fuppofed were made by the natives.
Next day we proceeded on our journey to the north-weft, through a deep fandy country. About noon we obferved a habitation a little to the eaftward, and found that it belonged to an European, who lived here during the winter feafon : this place we called the Pickled Fountain, from the water being fo brackifh that we could not drink it. In the afternoon We continued our journey to another fountain, called Brack Fountain. The water here was exceedingly brackifh, though much better than the firft. During the night we had much rain ; and next day found good water in the hollow rocks ; but I obferved that the water, by ftanding a few hours in the rocks, became fimilar in its qualities to that of the fountain.
From this place we continued our journey through a hilly country. Moft of the hills form large pyramids of loofe, red, fandy ftone. Here I found but few plants in flower, except of the fucculent kind. At noon, on the twenty-fecond, we came to the Hartebeeft Rivier, which was brackiih ; here we refted about two hours. In the afternoon we proceeded to the weftward, when we came to another houfe on the lame river, where we ftayed all night.   A little to the weftward
this river joins another, called the Thorn River. The foil in this part of the country is clay.
The next morning we directed our courfe to the northward, and in the forenoon came to the Black Thorn River ; which has its fource at the Camis Berg. This is one of the higheft mountains in this part of the country, and fupplies the greateft part of the Small Nimiqua Land with water in the fummer. At this river we Hayed all day, having excellent pafture and good water for our cattle.
The following day we continued our journey north-weft, and entered the Small Nimiqua Land. The country is very mountainous. Moft of the hills are covered with the Aloe Dichotoma. In the afternoon we arrived under the Camis Berg, where we met with a peafant who had been fome miles to the northward, inquiring after fome of his friends ; he was on his way to the Cape. There being a good fupply of water at this place, we refolved to continue here all night; and in the morning we directed our courfe towards the weft : and in our road paffed feveral dangerous precipices. At noon we refted, about an hour, by a fmall ftream of water. In the afternoon we proceeded in the fame direction; and in the even* ing came to a houfe belonging to a Dutchman, fituated on the banks of a pleafant river, called the Green River. Here we ftayed all night. The Hottentots brought us milk, for which we gave them tobacco and Dacka, or hemp leaves, which they prefer even to tobacco.
Pnbhshttf ,lfa+/</t     j78g, by J. Jv/uiMi. in, J*' VdirU CfuovA-yar-
flMuhad .Ifurrti jt>. i~gtf, by J. Johntan. M J'.' l\u.U Hfiurdt iW
Early on the morning of the twenty-feventh, we fallied * forth towards the north, and afcended a fteep hill, where I W collected many beautiful plants,.   At night we came to a Hottentot village,  which confifted of  nineteen huts, and about one hundred and fifty inhabitants.   The enfign of authority, which is worn by their chief or captain, is a cane with. a brafs top, which is given to him by the Dutch company. The Hottentots amufed us, part of the night, witli their dancing ; while, in return, we treated them with tobacco and Dacka, Their mufic is produced from flutes made of the bark of trees of different fizes.   The men form themfelves into a circle, with their flutes, and the women dance round them, making a noife with their hands.   In this manner they continue to dance in parties during the whole night,  and are-relieved about every two hours..
From this place, on the twenty-eighth, wc direded our courfe weiterly, after afcending a fteep mountain, where our Waggon was much damaged. Here we had a view of the Atlantic ocean, about thirty miles to the weftward. At noon ^ came to a fountain, where were feveral Hottentot huts: this is called the Eye Fountain, by the natives, from one of ti*em having had his eye -{truck out here in a quarrel with the others.   The foil is clay, intermixed with large round ftones.
this part of the country I colleaed a variety of plants. In tbe evening we came to a fmall ftream of water, where we ftept.
The following day, we continued our journey north by weft, through a mountainous country; and towards the evening came to a fmall fountain of brackifh water, fituate under a naked rock of a conical figure, upwards of five hundred feet high. Here we remained till morning, and then proceeded north bv call, after crofling a river, called the Coufie, or Sand River, where we found an European with his cattle, who lived here during the winter feafon. This man poffeffed neither houfe nor hut, but lodged under the fhelter of a large Aloe Dichotoma, which is a very common plant in thefe regions. I have meafured feveral which were twelve feet in circumference, and above twenty feet high ; and I have feen fome above four hundred feet round the extremity of the branches, which extend themfelves in the form of a crown. This plant is called the Koker Boem, or Quiver Tree ; and has its name from the ufe to which it is commonly applied by the natives. In the afternoon we continued our journey to the northward ; and in the evening came to the houfe of one Jan Vander Fli-ver, fituate on the Copper Berg Rivier, where we refted a few days, and were hofpitably entertained. I made feveral excurfions through the country, where I found a variety of plants ; among thefe was the Geranium Spinofum, with yellow flowers*  The foil about this part is a red fand.
At this place I furnifhed myfelf with fome frefh oxen, part of mine being unferviceable. We next directed our courfe north, through a rugged country, in which we faw feveral of the natives at a diftnncc. In our way we pailed the Coppef Mountain, which was clifcovered in the year fixteen hundred
and eighty-four, by Governor Vander Stell, but found great s^b\r. fcarcity of wood and water. There is, at a little diftance, a —> brackiili fountain which is frequently dry in the fummer. In the evening we arrived at a fmall fountain, where we had hardly water enough to fuffice us and our cattle. We, however, refolved to remain there all night, being informed that we were thirty miles diftant from the next water.
We thence directed our courfe north.   About ten, in the morning, we law feveral natives approaching, armed with tows and arrows, whom we fuppofed to be bullr Hottentots, and therefore thought it prudent to load our guns. They foon overtook us, and afked me for fome tobacco, which I wil-hnglv gave them. One, who fpoke Dutch, told me, that they had     cattle, and that they lived upon roots and gums ; and fometimes feafted on an Antelope, which they occafionally ^ot with their poifoned arrows.   Soon after one of the inhabitants of the Nimiqua Land overtook us,  and rcqueftcd I Would accept of his company to the Great River.   His nation heing at war with the bulh Hottentots, he was rather afraid, as tbey°frequently rob the Nimiquas of their cattle, and often kill the people.   In the evening we came to a fmall fountain, where we ftayed all night, having travelled about thirty miles Without meeting with a drop of water.
The following morning we di*e&ed our courfe north by eaft, through a fandy plain ; and about funfet came to a brack-1{h fountain, where we ftayed all night.  Next morning I made excurfion to a lu& mountain, to the eaftward, where I
, J77?;   found many plants which were unknown to me, particularly
K-ptoaibcr. J  1 1 J
1—' feveral new fpecies of Euphorbias, Hermannias, and Stapelias. I collected many feeds, and as many fpecimens as I could pre-ferve. From the fummit of this mountain I had an extenfive view of the adjacent country to the north and eaft. At noon I returned to the waggon.
In the afternoon we directed our courfe northward, through a fandy plain, which we had much difficulty in crofting, the fand being fo deep that our cattle funk in it to their knees. Towards the eve irig, Mr. Van Renan and myfelf left the waggon, directing our courfe northward in fearch of water; and refolvcd not to return till we found it. At night we came to the Great River, where we agreed to wait till the waggon arrived, our horfes being much fatigued. At this place was a kind of flied, which had been built by an European who had lived lome time on the banks ; there being excellent pafture for cattle. We had been a whole clay without tailing food ; fo that we were very glad to find a piece of rufty flefh of the Hippopotamus, a fpecies of diet which the Africans are very fond of. My companion eat very heartily of it ; as for myfelf, a very fmall portion fatisfied me. After this regale we endeavoured to lleep ; but though we were much fatigued, we could get no reft for the cries of the Hippopotami, which are really frightful. Next morning, our waggon not being arrived, we faddled our horfes and returned the fame way, fuppofmg fome accident had happened to it. On our return we found the drivers had mined the way, and gone more to the call ward.   We difcovered their track, and followed them
h e rmannia.
Puhlifhfd Jtarch jojjty, bj- J.Jo/uiso/l, i/iJTaulf l^turckytrJ. .
s TAP ELI A.
Pii/'Us/wt/ Atarcfi yi> ijtVg, by J. John son, ui S'. I'aiU-i I'ltutyJiyanl .
to another part of the river. When we arrived, all our Hot- Se^b.r tentots were hunting the Hippopotamus, having no proviiion ^ in the waggon. They had hunted the whole day without iuc-cefs ; and one of them had been wounded by the animal; but the ftream being rapid, had driven him off to the oppofite more. We obferved feveral natives, to whom we made repeated figns; but they did not feem to underftand us.
On the feventh, we agreed to return the way we came, having had nothing to eat for the two preceding days, except fome wild prickly cucumbers, which grew here in abundance. Before we took leave of this place, I afked Mr. Van Renan to accompany me to a high hill about a league to the eaftward of us, which he readily agreed to.   When arrived at the fummit, we law a lar^e herd of cattle about fix miles to the call-ward; on which we immediately returned to the waggon with the glad tidings, and a Hottentot was difpatched to bring us a fihecp or a bullock, whatever it mould coll.   Our mcffenger returned in the evening with three ilieep, and the Hottentots to whom they belonged, who ftayed with us during the night. The river affumes a wefterly direaion in this part; and I found it to be the lame that Captain Gordon had vifited the Year before, and had named the Orange River, in honour of the Prince of Orange.   On both fides of the river are large trees, peculiar to this country, fuch as Mimofa of difterent forts ; Salices, and a great variety of ilirubby plants. The mountains have, upon the whole, a barren appearance, being in general naked rocks ;   though they are in fome places adorned by a variety of fucculent plants ; and in particular
1778.   Euphorbia, which grows to the height of fifteen feet, and
September.       L 0 7
1—-—<> fupplies the Flottentots with an ingredient for poiibning their arrows. Their method of making this pernicious mixture, is by firft taking the juice extracted from the Euphorbia, and a kind of caterpillar peculiar to another plant, which has much the appearance of a Ipecies of Rhus, though I could find none in flower. They mix the animal and vegetable matter, and after drying it, they point their arrows with this compofition, which is iuppofed to be the moft effectual poifon of the whole country. The Euphorbia itfelf is alio ufed for this purpofe, by throwing the branches into fountains of water frequented by wild beafts, which after drinking the water thus poifoned, feldom get a thoufand yards from the brink of the fountain before they fall down and expire. This practice of poifoning the water, proves an additional danger to travellers who are unacquainted with the circumftance ; though the natives generally ufe the precaution of leading off the water which is to be poifoned to a fmall drain, and covering up the principal fountain..
Wc next directed our courfe eaftcrly, along the banks of the river, where I added much to my collection. In our progress we faw a variety of the moft beautiful Birds I ever beheld ; and numbers of wild Apes and Elephants.
The day following, I propofed crofting the river with feveral of the Hottentots who were fwimmers. We invented a fmall float, which confifted of three pieces of dry wood, on which we tranfported our guns and clothes.   After fwimming about
euphorbia.
PuirUthed Alutvtt jo.fjSt). l>y J Jo/uuu-n, in .1"'/}/(,/„■ t'/turoJi van
half an hour, we gained the oppofite fhore, where we wounded _
f        t> rl 7 September.
an Hippopotamus. At noon I made an excurfion along the ^—*—-J mountains, which were fo naked that fcarcely a plant was to be feen. Some of thefe mountains confift of a fpecies of quartz, others of iron, and feveral ftrata of copper ore. Along the banks of the river I found many pebbles of hard agate. In the evening we returned to the waggon, much fatigued. The wind being eafterly, had driven us above a thoufand yards down the river. I ftayed here feveral days, fearching the whole country for plants, and ihot many beautiful birds, with which I was before unacquainted.
On the fifteenth, whilft we were in this fituation, my companion, Mr. Van Renan, very narrowly efcaped with his life. In crofting the river, accompanied by four Hottentots, the whole party was attacked and purfued by two Hippopotami. They had, however, the good fortune to get upon a rock in the middle of the river, and their guns being: loaded they
? DO J
killed one of thefe animals ; the other fwam to the oppofite fide. Mr. Van Renan's Intention was to go to the northward, being informed that the Camclopardales were in that part of the country, while I made excurfions to the eaftward through a large plain in fearch of plants. Here I found many new fpecies of Gramina, particularly that which the Dutch call Bofhman's Grafs, from the ufe made of it by that people, who eat the feed of it. At different feafons of the year a fpecies of locufts come down to this plain in fuch numbers as to deftroy moft of the plants. The Bofhmen efteem thefe in* iecfs excellent food.   Hie locufts are dried and kept for ufe
^y8-   when thev have no other provifion.   This part of the country
September. J L I J
J abounds with poifonous reptiles. The quadrupeds which arc found, are Elephants, Rhinocerofes, Camelopardales, Zebras, Elks, Koedoes, Lions, Tigers, Hyenas, and Jackals.
Mr. Van Renan .returned the nineteenth. He had fhot a Camelopardalis, towards the evening, at a great diftance- from the water, to which they immediately directed their courfe, intending to fend a Hottentot next day to fkin the animal. On their return, to their great furpiize, a Lion fprung up about fifty yards from the place where the Camelopardalis lay ; and, on their arrival, they found he had disfigured it fo much, that nothing could be preferved except part of the fkin of the neck, with the horns, and part of the hind quarters. After feeing this, I refolved to crofs the river with fome of the Hottentots, and procure the fkeleton which they left in the fields. But by this time the river began to fwell, and the Hottentots refufed to accompany me, as they would be in danger of being detained for feveral months on the oppofite fide ; this being the rainy feafon to the eaftward of our pre-fent fituation, in which quarter we difcovered many thunder clouds. Hie climate differs much from that of the Small Nimiqua Land. During our flay here, the thermometer rofe from ninety-five to one hundred and ten in the fhade.
The twenty-third, we fpent the whole day in ihooting at the Hippopotami, one of which we killed. We faw alfo the method made ufe of by the natives to catch thefe animals ; which is as follows : they dig large holes in the ground, along
the banks of the river, about ten feet diameter, and fome of _ T778-
7 7 September.
them about ten feet deep. In the bottom of thefe pits they «— place pieces of wood fharpened at the points, and then cover the cavity with branches of trees and turf. When the hippopotami come out of the river in the night to graze, they often fall into thefe fnares, and very frequently receive wounds which occafion their immediate death.
As the feafon was too far advanced to admit of our proceeding farther to the north, and as there was no other path than that we had already taken, we returned by the fame route. In our way we were vifited by two peafants of the Nimiqua Land, who were fent out on a commiffion to the Boihmen, in fearch of cattle which they had perloined from the inhabitants of that country.
The twenty-fourth, we directed our courfe wefterly. At night we came to a fmall fountain, called Zebras Fountain. There was but little water ; but we were, neverthelefs, under the neceffity of flaying all night, having an extenfive plain to crofs, where there was not a drop of water to be feen for about fifty miles.
On the twenty-fifth, at funfet, we left this fmall fountain, and proceeded fouthward, intending to travel through the diy defart. After travelling about eight miles, feveral of our cattle began to drop down under the yoak, which obliged us to ftay the remaining part of the night without a drop of water. In the morning we miffed our oxen, and fent a Hottentot out
ill fearch of them, who returned at midnight. This clay we paffed disagreeably, being expofed to the fcorching heat of the fun, and entirely cleftitute of water.
On the next, we agreed that it would be belt to return to the river for water, and leave the waggon in its prefent fitua-tion. Mr. Van Renan being lick, remained to take charge of the baggage, which required fome guard from the number of bufh Hottentots who inferred this part of the country. We then directed our courfe towards the river, and took with us an empty calk and a cann, which we had by the waggon. We found the river to be diflant from us about eight miles in a a direct line. We law, on our arrival, the remainder of two Hippopotami, which we had fliot fome clays before, thrown out of the river. After refrelhing ourfelves, we filled our cafk and cann, which Jacobus Ryke and myfelf carried, leaving our Hottentots to bring the cattle to the waggon. The heat of the fun, and the fatiguing journey we had over the fand, obliged us to expend great part of the water before we arrived at the waggon, which was at fix in the evening. As foon as our oxen arrived, we made another attempt to proceed ; but after travelling about ten miles farther, our cattle appeared in the fame condition as before. Mr. Van Renan and Jacobus Ryke therefore agreed to go on to the houfe of one Vander Hever, which was about fifty miles to the fouthward of this place. They faddled their horfes early, the twenty-eighth, and left us in this difagreeable fituation, without water or fire. I fent a Hottentot to a rock, about ten miles diftance to the jbuth-eaft, where there was a little water.   In the afternoon,
geranium.
Vttb&fud Mmh90mSa, by J. Johnson, in .W'/'auti On-
being tired of our fituation, we refolved to make a third effort; Sopt^er and, if we fhould find it impoflible to proceed, to leave the <—v-w waggon and return to the Orange River, being almoft exhaufted for want of water. Very luckily our cattle did much better than we expected, and brought us out of that fandy defart; in which there was fcarcely any thing to be feen except Mice and Snakes, both of which we obferved in great numbers. Towards the evening we met the Hottentot whom we had fent to the rock in fearch of water. He brought with him about forty quarts, which refrefhed us greatly ; and, I believe, the very fmell of it animated our cattle. In the night we arrived at the Brack Fountain, which by this time was almoft dried up: being much fatigued, we were very unwilling to leave this place. The next day I employed the Hottentots in digging the fountain a little deeper ; and, by their exertions, we procured abundance of water, both for our own ufe and that of the cattle.
In the afternoon I vifited the hills, where I collected feveral feeds and fpecimens of plants, which I had not obferved in my former vifit to this fpot.
After leaving this part, we purfued our journey towards the Copper Berg, in the expectation of meeting with a fupply of frefh oxen from our friend Vander Hever. About ten, at night, we perceived a fire at a diftance, and, on our arrival at the place, had the pleafure of finding a Hottentot with twelve bullocks under his care, which had been difpatched for our afliftance.   We continued to travel till three o'clock in
ptember tne morning> when we arrived at the Small Copper Berg -nr—> Fountain, where we flopped.
As foon as it was day, we proceeded on our journey ; and at nine o'clock I left the waggon, and directed my courfe through the mountainous part of the country in fearch of plants. I alfo vifited the Copper Mines ; and brought with me feveral fpecimens of the ore, which is very rich. In the evening I arrived at the houfe of Vander Hever ; and about two hours afterwards my waggon arrived. Here we refted feveral days, and were kindly entertained. During our abode at this place, I made feveral excurfions into the adjacent country, and confiderably enriched my collection. As the dry feafon was now commencing, the greater part of the inhabitants were removed to their fummer refidence on the Camis Berg. This mountain, *z I mentioned before, fupplies all this part of the country with water, which interfects the ground in different places. On the north fide flows the Coufie, and on the fouth and fouth-weft, the Green River. Several other rivers, likewife, derive their fource from the Camis Berg ; but they are of very little utility to the Nimiqua Land.
Being furniihed with a team of frefh oxen, we travelled towards the fouthward the whole of the fourth of October, and at night arrived at the Sand River, the water of which we found brackifh. Here we remained till morning, and then purfued our journey for about fourteen miles, to a place where we found excellent water , but no great variety of plants, except Geraniums*
We next proceeded to a place, called Cafpers Kloaf, where
* r       7 17 October.
we remained all night.   On the feventh, I made an excurfion 1—*^ to the Camis Berg, and collected many fpecies of Morsea and Ixias ; and found many plants in flower, fuch as Oxalias and Crinums, which were in that ftate during the month of May at the Cape.
The following morning, we purfued our journey towards the Bokke Veld, and in our way pafled feveral Hottentot Kraals. Thofe people are poffeffed of large herds of cattle ; and reficle in the fummer on the Camis Berg. At the Eye Fountain we met a peafant who had travelled from the Cape, and was going towards the Orange River.
We proceeded, on the tenth, to the Green River, where we refted during the heat of the day and in the afternoon travelled about four miles farther to the fouth-eaft. The next day we were informed of a much better path than that which we had already traverfed, and which we refolved to take : we travelled the whole day, and at night arrived at a fmall ftream of water, where we agreed to remain till the morning. This we fuppofed to be the Thorn River.
The next morning I afcended a high mountain to the fouth-ward, which afforded me a very extenfive view of the country to the eaft ; and the pleafure of obferving we had taken the right path. After travelling about fifteen miles, we came to the houfe of a Dutchman, where I procured provifions for a Week, as we had an extenfive country to pafs before we could
reach the Bokke Veld. This place is called Two Fountain ; and is fituated to the fouth-eaft of the Camis Berg.
We directed our courfe from this place to the Thorn River, where we repofed during the heat of the day. In the afternoon we continued our journey to the Hartebeeft Rivier, and remained there all night.
On the fourteenth, we found the Brack Fountain nearly dried up, and fo bitter, that our cattle refufed to drink of the water. Here, however, we flayed all night, and early the next morning proceeded on our journey towards the Lion's Den, where we flattered ourfelves with the hopes of finding-water ; but were difappointed, for not a fingle drop of water was difcoverable in this place. We, however, unyoaked our cattle, and refted about two hours. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the Stink Fountain, which was diftant about thirty miles. In the night we loft our way, and were obliged to fleep in this dry defart. The next morning we faw the Bokke Lands Bergen to the fouth-eaft of us, about twenty miles. Mr. Van Renan and I left the waggon at an early hour, directing our courfe to the Bokke Land ; and fent a frefh team of oxen from thence to relieve ours, which were greatly fatigued, and fcarcely able to ftand, in confequence of the injury they had received in their hoofs from the fharp ftones.
On the feventeenth, we brought our waggon to the houfe of Mrs. Ryck. My intention was to crofs the country, from this place to the great nation of Caffres, which is about nine
hundred miles to the fouth-eaft ; but finding both my oxen *778-
0 y OiStober.
and waggon in very indifferent order, for fo long a journey, I <—*— altered my plan, and conceived the defign of making an excurfion to the Hentum, and part of the Bofhmen's Land. This day we had feveral loud claps of thunder, and heavy rain. The variable ftate of the weather detained me here feveral days, during which I collected a variety of plants.
When we left the Bokke Land, we directed our courfe eaft-ward, and arrived, on the twenty-third, at the houfe of Chrif-tian Bockchcre, where I pafled the night.
The following day we had ftormy weather, and heavy ftiowers of rain and fleet; and towards the evening, hail and fnow. At eight in the evening, the thermometer was at forty-three degrees. The next morning a fevere froft killed moft of the corn, which at this time was about a foot in height; a circumftance which frequently occurs in this part of the country.
I made an excurfion, on the twenty-feventh, to the northward, which is called the Bofhmen's Land, from its beino-inhabited by the Bufh Hottentots, who are a very different people from the other peaceable and well difpofed inhabitants of this region.   They are in fiict, fierce, cruel, and diihoneft.
In this tour I vifited a houfe belonging to a Dutchman, who had lived here for many years. A few weeks before our arrival he had been attacked by the Bofhmen, who had
killed four of his Hottentots, and wounded another. Thefe marauders carried away alfo feveral of his cattle, which he was never able to recover.
The twenty-ninth, upon leaving the Hentum, we returned to the Bokke Lands Bergen, intending to return to the Cape, along the, fliore of the Atlantic Ocean.
The thirty-firft, when arrived at the Bokke Land, we were compelled to remain there feveral days, from the ftate of the weather, which was very rainy and variable. I there found many curious plants, among which was one called Elephant's Foot*. I could find none of them in flower, but on my paflage to Europe, on board the Held Woltemade, Dutch Eaft Indiaman, was fortunate enough to have one of them, which flowered in the month of April. Upon examination, I found it to be a plant of the clafs Dioecia Hexandria. It has a large folid bulb, which fprouts to the height of five or fix feet, and afterwards fhoots out into fmall climbing branches with roundifh heart-fhaped leaves. The natives eat the root, which they efteem very falubrious.
We took leave of this place on the fixth of November, accompanied by two fons of Mrs. Ryck, and an overfeer of Mr. Van Renan's farms, in this part of the country, who was going on a fliooting party. I alfo partook of the diverfion, and left the waggon to proceed to a place called the Lion's Dance,
Smilax,
SECOND JOURNEY.
73
where we intended to ftay all night. Our way lay through N xv7^ a low country of a clayey foil, called Karo. We faw much 1—H game ; and the fervant of Mr. Van Renan, being an excellent markfman, fhot two Elks, both of which were much larger than an Englifh bullock : the flefh of this animal is palatable though dry. At night we returned to the Lion's Dance, where we found our waggon.
Early, on the feventh, we parted with our friends, and directed our courfe fouth-wefl, having the Bokke Lands Bergen on our left hand, and the Atlantic Ocean on our right, at the diftance of about thirty miles. We travelled the whole day and till midnight, when we found a fountain of brackifh water. We refted at the fide of this fountain the remaining part of the night.
The next day my companion and myfelf left the waggon, and directed our courfe weft north-weft. In the afternoon we arrived at the Elephant's River, and found it fo deep that our horfes fwam about ten yards. We foon reached the oppofite fliore, where, at a little diftance, was the houfe of a Dutchman who had lived many years on the banks of this river, and kept a fmall boat for traniporting waggons, in time of neceflity. We ftayed here, waiting for our waggon, and dried our clothes.
We were employed, during the following day, in tranfport-ing our baggage over the river. On the banks of it are many large trees of Mimofa and Tarchonanthus Camphoratus. The
L
November ^QlUltry around Is rather naked of trees ; but produces a great —; variety of fucculent plants.
We were furniflied by our benevolent hoft with a team of frefli oxen, which were neceftary to enable us to pafs through a deep fandy plain ; and were accompanied by a peafant of the Nimiqua Land, who was travelling towards the Cape. We continued our journey about twenty miles to the fouthward, and at night came to a large cove, called the Fleer Lodfie-ment*, where we refted till the next day. In the afternoon we proceeded on our journey through a deep white fandy plain, where were a variety of plants, fuch as the Afpalathus, Leucadendron, and many others which were unknown to me. We travelled till midnight, when we found a little water, near which we pafled the night. The next morning we proceeded to a farm, called the Long Valley, which is diftant from the Elephant's River about flxty miles. Here we ftayed all night, and were, as ufual, hofpitably entertained.
From this place we directed our courfe eaft by fouth, along the valley. In the night fome animal fprung out of a bufh, which fo greatly alarmed our oxen, that it was with difficulty we could keep them ftill. We fuppofed the noife to proceed from an Flyena, as we heard the cries of thofe animals fome time after at a very confiderable diftance.
The fourteenth, we arrived at the Berg Valley, where we ftayed all night, at the houfe of Jofias Engelbright.
* Gentlemens Lodgings.
I difpatched my waggon,  on the fifteenth, towards the l77$-
1 J      , co    * » November.
Picquet Berg, and together, with my companion, paffed the «—«-w day in this place, where I ihot variety of birds, which I found in great abundance.
The next day we proceeded on our journey ; paffed a place called the Croffe, where the Berg Valley joins the Venlore Valley, and both affurae a weftward direction. At noon we overtook the waggon, and refted the afternoon at the houfe of a Mr. Smith. Towards the evening, Mr. Smith and I made a fhort excurfion towards the hill, and took each of us a gun. On our return we fhot four large Flamingoes, from four to five and fix feet long. We faw alfo the Yellow Snake, or Covra Capel.
We afterwards directed our courfe along the Picquet Berg, on the fide of the large chain of mountains which commences at the end of the Flottniqua Land, and extends through the interior part of the country to about twenty miles from the Atlantic Ocean.
In the afternoon we arrived at the houfe of a Dutchman, where we ftayed all night, and were well entertained. This form is fruitful, producing plenty of corn and European fruits.
The following day I made an excurfion to the top of the mountain, where I had a view of the Table Land to the fouthward, diftartt about fixty or feventy miles. Here I collected but few plants.   The mountain is well watered, and is
1778.   covered with variety of grafs.   There is alfo a farm here be-
Isov umber. i
—1 longing to Mr. Hana Camp, where he kept part of his cattle during fummer ; but in the winter it is often covered with fnow. On my return I faw feveral Zebras, which inhabit the mountain ; but as they are not found in confiderable numbers, Ihooting them is prohibited. After refrelhing myfelf, I followed my waggon, and towards the evening overtook it. About midnight we came to the Berg Rivier, where there is a ferry; we continued here during the remaining part of the night.
The next morning my companion and myfelf left the waggon, and traverfed Swart Land, or Black Land, leaving the Rie Beck's Caftiel* on our left. In the afternoon we pafled the Swart Land's Church, and at night came to the houfe of Clafs Lopfer, which is fituated on the Deep River. He was jufr. arrived from the Cape, and had brought with him fome excellent wine, to which he very liberally made us welcome.
We directed our courfe along the Camis Berg, and obferved the farmers were now engaged in their harvefl. At noon we came to a place belonging to the Dutch company, called Fifhers Hook, where we refreihed ourfelves, and in the afternoon proceeded on our journey to the Cape Town, where I arrived on the twentieth of November, feventeen hundred and feventy-eight, after a journey of fix months.
* Takes its name from Governor Van Rie Beck.
THIRD JOURNEY.
Caffraria quite unknown to Europeans—Channa hands Height—Well cultivated farm of Okker Hynns—Longe Kloaf—Crooked River—Camtours Rivier— Forreft of Mimofa—Lorie River—Van Stada's River—Curious plants and animals—Defcription of the Hartebeefl—Zout Pan, a curious fait lake— Total neglect of agriculture in this country—Wild Dogs—Sondays Rivier, nine hundred miles from the Cape—State of the Dutch boors in this country —Sand Fleet—Chonacquas—Wars between the Chonacquas and Caffres— Cattle folen by the Caffres—Great Fijh River—Curious plant—Hunting the Buffalo—Difficidty of crofjing the woods—Extenfive profpect of the Indian Ocean, &c,—Caffraria j hofpifality of the people—Manners of the Caffres— King of the Caffres ; his palace and rural jlate ; hojpitality and generojity of this monarch—Curious manufactures of Caffraria—Method of making bread from the pith of the palm tree—Faction among the Caffres—Defcription of the country and people—Soil and climate—Adventures on returning— Klow fcknejs among the cattle.
IN my third journey it was my fortune to traverfe a part of the continent of Africa, which never had been vifited before by any European ; nor do I know that any traveller has fince been permitted to vifit it, I mean Caffraria. So jealous are thefe people of the incroachments of the Dutch, (who are the only Europeans they are acquainted with) that they ltrictly prohibit individuals from entering their territory; while its remotenefs has prevented the States, or the Company, from confidering it as an object, of conqueft. I was not, however, deterred from the attempt by the difficulty of the undertaking ; and with this great object in view, I fet out from Cape Town, on the twenty-third of December, and proceeded
towards Zwellendam, where I arrived the third of January, feventeen hundred and feventy-nine. Here I was joined by one of the Company's overfcers, Mr. Tunies, who was going to the eaftward to exchange cattle for tobacco and beads.
We continued our journey to Groot Faders Bofch, and on the eighth paffed the Doven Hocks Rivier, where we remained all night.
The following day we paffed the Falfe River, and Caffre Kulls Rivier ; and thence proceeded to the Gouds Rivier. We next directed our courfe to the Hagal Kraal, leaving the fliore of the Indian Ocean on our right hand, at the diftance of about ten miles ; and on the twelfth our road lay over a large chain of mountains, which I mentioned in my firft journey in this country, Atquas Kloaf, which is very difficult to pafs.
We profecuted our journey from this quarter eaftward, through part of the Canna Land. In the afternoon of the thirteenth, we defcended a very rugged and fteep path, called the Canna Lands Fleight. The country has a very barren appearance, fcarcely any vegetation being vifible, except a few dwarfiih flirubs, without verdure. In the courfe of the evening, I was much furprifed with the appearance of cultivated land. This belonged to one Okker Hynns, an induftrious farmer, who in this dreary fituation had erected a good houfe, and planted gardens and vineyards, which produced tolerable wine and excellent fruit, fuch as Almonds, Figs, Peaches,
Apricots, &c. which he dries and fends to the Cape for fale. *779-
* . January.
About three weeks before our arrival, there had been a very —\—-> heavy ftorm of hail and wind; the hail-ftones, which were of an enormous fize, and the impetuous wind, had defiroyed every thing about his houfe. His corn, vineyard, and fruit-trees, were totally ipoiled ; one of his children, who was at the time keeping a flock of fheep at fome diflance from any fhelter, was very much hurt, and many of the flieep were killed.
In the cool of the evening we travelled to a fmall river, about fix miles diflant from this place, where we continued all night.
We proceeded in our courfe to the eaftward, on the fourteenth, and in the evening arrived at the houfe of one Rulof Comphor. This is the beginning of the Lange Kloaf, which Mr. Mafon remarks, is about an hundred miles long, and about two miles in breadth ; the foil is a flrong rcddiih clay, and the paflure very unwholefome for cattle. Since the year feven-teen hundred and feventy-four, this part of the country has, been much improved, the farmers have cultivated corn-land, gardens, and vineyards, and in general are pofTeffed of very good houfes. We profecuted our journey along this valley, making fhort flages, where I collected many plants and fpe-cimens.
On the twentieth, we arrived at the Krome Rivier, or Crooked River,  which runs through a long marfliy valley
1779-   bounded by two ridges of hills, but not fo lofty as that of the
January. J o ' J
1—Lange Kloaf. At the mouth of this river is a kind of bay, which may afford a fafe harbour for fhips. This part of the coaft is but little known, particularly to the eaft.
In the afternoon we came to a place, called Eften Bofch, (from a tree very ufeful in making waggons, which the Dutch call EfTen, or Afh.) We thence proceeded to a houfe beautifully fituated on the banks of a pleafant river, called Cab-leows River, from a fifh which goes by that name, and which is a fpecies of Cod, being found near its mouth. This houfe being the property of my particular friend, Mr. Van Renan, I (laid a day, and vifited the fliore, which is only about an Englifh mile diftant. Among the rocks we found abundance of Oyfters, which were very good. Flere is excellent pafture for cattle, and the farm produces plenty of corn, wine, and European fruits.
We continued our journey, on the twenty-third, to the Camtours Rivier, where we refted during the heat of the day. On the banks of this river are woods of very large trees, particularly of the Mimofa, and other arborious plants peculiar to this country. Thefe woods are generally frequented by wild buffaloes, which are very fierce, and which confequently render travelling very dangerous. In the afternoon we were accompanied by a fervant of Mr. Van Renan, who was going towards the Lorie Rivier. About ten o'clock at night, we arrived at the place where my waggon already was, and to our great furprife faw a wild buffalo ftanding clofe to it,
which we at firft took for one of my oxen. Before we could afcertain whether this was the cafe or not, it fprung into the wood. The Lorie River derives its name from a fpecies of that bird, which is found in the woods on its banks, and joins the Camtours about a mile to the fouthward. The deep places are inhabited by the Hippopotamus Amphibius ; but thefe animals have been fo much hunted, that they feldom make their appearance out of the water.
We directed our courfe from this place, fouth by eaft, through an uneven country, and in the evening came to Van Stada's Rivier, where we obferved a beautiful wood upon the declivity of a hill, extending to the very banks of the river. Here I found fome plants of the Aletris Fragrens, upwards of twenty feet in height, and many in flower, as well as other beautiful plants. There were alfo a great variety of birds of the moft beautiful plumage I had ever feen in the country.
On the twenty-fixth I vifited the fea-fhore, which was five or fix miles to the fouthward. About a thoufand yards from the fea, the mouth of the river forms a lake, being dammed up by a bank of fand, which extends along the fliore. In the afternoon we continued our journey through an extenfive plain, where I found variety of bulbous plants, and numerous herds of the different animals peculiar to this country, fuch as the Eland, Quacha, Zebra, and a fpecies of Antelope, called by the Dutch, Hartebeeft, which is the Capra Dorcas of Lin-
naeus.   We had the good fortune to flioot one of thefe, the
dimenfions were,
Feet. Inches.
The length of the head, - - i 4
Breadth of the jaw,      - • - - o 7
Length of the ear,       - - - -        o 8f
Ditto of the neck, - - 12
Breadth of the ifioulders, - - -        o 10
Length of the fore legs, - 2 6
Height behind,        - - - 4 if
Ditto before,           - - - 4 tH
Length of the body, - - 4 o
Ditto of the whole, from the tail to the head,        5 6
The Hartebeeft is of a brownilh colour, and the flefh is palatable though dry.
This evening we arrived at the Swart Kops Rivier, where we paffed the night.
The next morning we were overtaken by a peafant who was on his way to the Bofhmens Land, and was glad to accompany us, as this place lay in our way. As he was a man well acquainted with the country, and the manners of the natives, he was not a lefs welcome companion to us than we had appeared to him.
At noon we paffed the Swart Kops Rivier. Zout Pan, which is fituate in this neighbourhood, is an object that cannot
THIRD   JOURNEY. S3 fail to attract the attention of travellers.   This lake is a plain Tx779-
1 January,
much above the level of the fea, and between three and four ■j miles in circumference. At fome feafons of the year it is formed into an entire mafs of fine white fait, which has a very firiking appearance. The heavy rains had diffolved the middle part of it, a fhort time before my arrival, but round the fides was a hard crufl of fait exactly refembling ice.
The adjacent country is covered with variety of fruitefcent and fucculent plants, many of which were quite new, in particular fome of the Euphorbia. Here we were vifited by two Caffres, the firft we had feen ; for they very feldom venture fo Jfar out of their own country. At night we arrived at a place, called by the Hottentots Kow Cha, which is much frequented by Lions, Rhinocerofes and Buffaloes. The foil is of a fandy loam, and produces excellent pafture for cattle, but no corn ; there is, however, no proof that the land is not fitted to produce grain, for no pains is taken, at this diftance from the Cape, to cultivate the ground.
We proceeded, on the twenty-ninth, to the eaftward, towards the Sondags Rivier, or Sundays River. The face of the country, at this place, has a very barren appearance ; but it produces a variety of arboreous plants, though very few of any confider-able height or fize, which demonstrates the poverty of the foil. On our way we faw great numbers of wild Dogs, which travel in flocks, and are very deftructive when they get where there are flocks of fheep. Wild Dogs are alfo found very near the Cape.   They are much larger than the Jackal, with
/779'   large irregular blotches or foots on their fkin.   After a very
January.        o o ± j
v--j difagreeable day's march, through a dry ftony country, we arrived at night at the Sundays River, which is diftant from the Cape Town about nine hundred miles. This river was the extent of Mr. Mafon's journey to the eaftward. There are ftill fome of the Hippopotami found here, but they are very fhy.
The following day I vifited one of the Dutch boors, who had refided in that part of the country for many years. This man was poffeffed of numerous herds of cattle ; but had no corn, and fcarcely a houfe to live in, though the place was favourable for both. But the generality of thofe people are of fo indolent a difpofition, that they feldom trouble themfelves either to build houfes or to cultivate the ground. Thofe of them who chufe to be induftrious, and to make the moft of their advantages, are enabled to live in a very comfortable manner.
One of our companions, Mr. Tunies, left us on the thirty-firft, and we were joined by Jacob Kock, an old German, whom I mentioned at Swart Kops Rivier. Mr. Van Renan and I went on towards the Great Fifh River. At noon we overtook our waggon at a place which, in the Hottentot language, is called Curnow. We were informed by our fervants, that they had been difturbed in the night by fome Elephants, which came very near the waggon.
In the afternoon we continued our journey to a plantation, called the Sand Fleet, belonging to our fellow traveller, Jacob
Kock. The country here is extremely beautiful and pictu-refque, very hilly, and the hills are fhaded with impenetrable woods; the vallies well watered and covered with grafs, which affords excellent pafture for cattle. Great numbers of quadrupeds inhabit this neighbourhood, fuch as Lions, Panthers, Elephants, Rhinocerofes, Buffaloes, Spring Bocks, &c. At a little diftance to the eaftward are fome Kraals belonging to the tribe of Hottentots, called Chonacquas. Thefe people are much darker in their complexion, and better lliaped than any of the other tribes I had before feen. Whether this difference arifes from their mixing with the Caffres, feveral of whom dwell in this part of the country, or from any other caufe, I could not afcertaim It is not very uncommon for the Caffres and Chonacquas to quarrel, which generally ends in an engagement. In thefe encounters feveral hundreds of the Caffres fometimes unite to oppofe their enemies, who very feldom bring a proportionable force into the field. But the dexterity with which the Hottentots ufe their bows and arrows, and the practice of poifoning the latter, render them very dangerous enemies to thofe who only ufe the Haflhgai. The difputes between thefe people generally originate about cattle, of which both nations are extremely avaricious.
We directed our courfe eaftward, to the Bofhman's River, and at noon I vifited a Kraal belonging to a Hottentot captain, called De Royter. This man has upwards of two hundred Hottentots and Caffres in his fervice, and a few hours before our arrival, had fought againft a number of Caffres,
had beaten them off the field, and taken many of their cattle.
We arrived, after fome time, at a lake of brackifh water, called by the Hottentots, Kys Guna Kie Katie ; each of thefe letters, which are accented, are pronounced with a hard im-pulfe of the tongue ; at this place we ftayed all the whole night of the firft of February.
We intended, early the following morning, to profecute our intended journey; but miffing our cattle, our firft care was to difpatch our Flottentots in fearch of them. In a few hours one of the men returned and informed us, that they had been ftolen by the Caffres, that they had difcerned the prints of their feet, and faw, from tracing them, that the cattle had been driven towards a village belonging to a Caffre captain, whofe name was Mahhotie. We fent our meffenger to the other Flottentots, and ordered them to follow the path of the cattle till they found them, which they did. They returned with them towards the evening, and informed us that they were found a little way from the Kraal. One of the Caffres told them, they had taken the cattle by miftake, the evening being dark, they thought they belonged to the Hottentots with whom they had fought the day before. Though it was now late, we continued our journey about, twenty miles. In the night we arrived at a place, called the K'a Cha Chow, which is one of the branches of the Bofhman's River, and where there was formerly a houfe belonging to our companion, Jacob Kock.
The morning, of the third, I requefted Mr. Kock to accom- F^J^L pany us to the Great Fifth River, with which he readily com- v-—' plied.    We thence purfued our journey to the eaftward, through a pleafant country, though quite uninhabited. There are numerous herds of quadrupeds to be found here, of the different fpecies which have been already defcribed.  The grafs was fo high that it reached our horfes bellies.   This part of the country is agreeably diverfified with little pleafant woods upon the declivities of the hills ; and here I found a fpecies of Leucadendron which was quite unknown to me, and many other beautiful plants.   A fpecies of Palm, mentioned by Mr. Mafon in his Second Journey, is alfo fcattered over the whole country ; I found feveral upwards of twenty feet in height. The Hottentots make bread of the pith of this plant ; the method of preparing which I fliall take another opportunity of defcribing.   In the evening we came to a place, called Now Tu.
That the reader may have a proper idea of our courfe, I am obliged more frequently to refer to the points of the com-pafs than, perhaps, may be thought confiftent with elegance. Our road from this place lay eaft by north. On the fourth, at noon, we came to a fmall river, which at this time was almoft dry ; we, however, refted a few hours, feeing a herd of Buffaloes at a diftance from us, which we intended to amufe ourfelves with fhooting in the afternoon. In this place I found a beautiful plant of the Liliaceous kind, with a large crown of white and red flowers. After dinner we divided ourfelves into different parties, and as foon as we were within fliot we at-
*779>   tacked the buffaloes ; they were about an hundred in number :
rebruary. J
five of them we fhot ; the others fled into a wood, which was about a mile to the eaftward of us. Mr. Kock had the animals fkinned ; their hides making fuch excellent thongs for oxen that they are preferred to every other material for this purpofe. At night we arrived at the Filli River, where we ftayed two days. During the night we had heavy fhowers of rain, with loud claps of thunder. Here the river affumes a fouthern direction, and empties itfelf into the great Indian Ocean, at about twenty miles diftance. The deepeft parts of the river are inhabited by the Hippopotamus, and the adjacent woods by Elephants, Rhinocerofes, and Buffaloes. We fhot feveral of the buffaloes, which were much heavier than an European bullock.
Seeing no poflibility of proceeding farther with our waggon through the impenetrable woods, we agreed that Mr. Van Renan fhould continue with it, while Mr. Kock and I proceeded eafterly towards the Caffres, being informed that we could, reach their country in two or three days. Moft of the arboreous plants in thefe parts were unknown to me, except the Euphorbia Antiquorum, Erythrina Coraliodendron, and the Garden'a Stellata. We took with us a Hottentot who was perfectly acquainted with the language of the Caffres. In paffmg through the thickets, on the banks of the Fifh River, we encountered confiderable difficulties, till we fortunately got into an Elephant's path, in which we continued till noon. We then crofted the river and entered a fpacious plain, which .afforded us great variety of the moft beautiful evergreens I
had ever feen ; and feveral bulbous plants, fuch as Irifes and *779-
.A < February.
Crinums, many of which I found in flower.   I particularly <—«—» noticed one fpecies of this plant, the flowers of which were crimfon, and in beauty and elegance far exceeded any I had ever met with.   In the evening we encamped under a large Mimofa, and made fires during the night.
After palTing this extenfive plain, we entered a wood about eight miles broad. In many places the trees were thinly fcattered ; in thefe openings we difcovered numerous herds of Buffaloes, which had not the leaft appearance of fhynefs; one of them we wounded. Soon after this we law a herd of Elephants, about eighty in number, which approached fo near to us, that we could obferve the length and thicknefs of their teeth. After leaving the wood, we afcended a fteep mountain, where we had a view of the Indian Ocean to the fouthward ; and to the northward, a hilly country covered with trees and evergreen flirubs, which extended about thirty miles. The profpecf was bounded by a range of mountains, called the Bamboo Berg, on which grows a fpecies of Bamboo. To the eaft we had a view of a pleafant country decorated with great variety of plants. The country is here well watered, and produces excellent pafture for cattle. Towards the evening, of the feventh, we obferved a fire about ten miles to the eaftward of us, upon the flope of a green hill. Our interpreter told us this was at a Caffre village. At funfet we difcovered another much nearer, and faw feveral herds of cattle. About eight in the evening we met three of the Caffres, who were much furprifed at our appearance, as we were certainly the
N
firft Europeans they had ever feen. They fpeedily returned and alarmed the whole village before we arrived ; but on our arrival, they received us kindly, brought us milk, and offered •us a fat bullock agreeably to their ufual hofpitable cuftom. This village confifted of about fifty houfes, fituate on the banks of a pleafant river, called in the Caffre language, Mugu Ranie ; and it belongs to their chief. It contained about three hundred inhabitants, all of whom were fervants or foldiers to their chief, who was likewife the proprietor of the numerous herds of cattle. Thefe people fubfifl on the milk of their cows, and on game, not being allowed to kill any of their cattle. The men milk the cows, and the women take care of the gardens and corn.
We were accompanied by all thefe people from one village to another, till we arrived at the place belonging to the per-fon whom they denominate their chief or king. His habitation was fituate on a pleafant river, called Becha Cum, or Milk River. Indeed all their houfes are built on the banks of rivers or ftreams ; but there was no corn or garden near it. The chief had about an hundred cows, which fupplied him and his houfhold with milk. His family confifted of about twenty-two fervants, who attended him wherever he went. On our arrival he feemed very fliy, and kept at a great diftance for about an hour1, when a number of Caffres met and accompanied him to his houfe. He foon afterwards fent one of his fervants to invite us thither. The firft thing I prefented him with was fome beads, of which he freely accepted. I alfo offered him fome of our tobacco ; but he feemed to prefer his
own, which was much lip*hter.   He foon offered me a herd of *779«
i-i February.
fat bullocks in return ; but I refufed to take them, which y—*—j feemed to affront him greatly, and he often repeated, " What do you think of our country." After a few words between us, I accepted of one, which we immediately fhot; this furprifed all the fpecfators, who were about fix hundred perfons, few of them having ever feen a gun, or heard the report of one. We had a part of the bullock dreffed, which I thought much fu-perior to the beef near the Cape. The reft of the animal I diftributed to the king and his fervants. He ftill feemed dif-pleafed that I would accept of nothing more in return. I then alked him for fome of their bafkcts, which he gave me, and alfo two of their lances or Haffagais, which they make with great ingenuity ; but the conftruction of the baikets, which are made by their women, is much more furprifing ; they are com-pofed of grafs, and woven fo clofely that they are capable of holding any fluid. Khouta, the chief, intreated me to remain with him a few days ; this, however, we did not confent to ; but after much perfuafion, agreed to ftay all night. In the afternoon I ranged the neighbouring woods in fearch of plants, and at night returned to my companion, who ftayed at the Becha Cum. As the weather was hot, we chofe to fteep in the woods rather than in any of the huts. During the night I obferved that there were two guards placed on each fide the door of the chief's houfe, who were relieved about every two hours.
On the ninth, I propofed to proceed farther to the eaft, allured by the plealantnefs of the country, and its affording
February variety of unknown plants, but found there was a river a little '—*■—1 to the eaftward of us, called by the natives, the Kys Comma. We then determined to return the fame way we came. The large Palm, mentioned before, grows here in abundance, and is ufed for bread by the Caffres as well as the Hottentots. They take the pith of this plant, and after collecting a fufficient quantity, let it lie for feveral days till it becomes a little four ; after this they bake it in an oven which is erected for the purpofe. They alfo bake bread of their own-corn, which is the fame as the Guinea corn. But this grain is moftly ufed for making punch, called by fome of them Pombie, which is ftrong and intoxicating. They make confiderable ufe of a plant, called by the natives Plantains, which grows fpontane-oufly on the banks of the rivers, and in the woods. The pods of this plant are triangular, and about the fize of a prickly cucumber. I found none of them in flower, but feveral in fruit ; the feed is about as large as a pea ; and I believe it to be what Dr. Tunberg calls the Flelaconia Caffraria.
The men amongft the Caffres are from five feet ten inches to fix feet high, and well proportioned, and in general evince great courage in attacking Lions, or any beafts of prey. This nation is now divided into two parties ; to the northward are a number of them commanded by one Chatha Bea, or Tambu-fhie, who has obtained the latter denomination from his mother, a woman of the tribe of Flottentots, called Tambukies. This man was the fon of a chief, called Pharoa, who died about three years before, and left two fons, Cha Cha Bea, and another named Dfirika, who claimed the fupreme authority on
account of his mother being of the Caffre nation. This tr'779' occafioned a conteft between the two brothers, in the courfe ^-^-v— of which Cha Cha Bea was driven out of his territories, with a number of his adherents. The unfortunate chief travelled about an hundred miles to the northward of Khouta, where he now re fides, and has entered into an alliance with the Bofhmen Hottentots.
The colour of the Caffres is a let black, their teeth white as ivory, and their eyes large. The cloathing of both fexes is nearly the fame, confiding entirely of the hides of oxen, which are as pliant as cloth. The men wear tails of different animals tied round their thighs, pieces of brafs in their hair, and large ivory rings on their arms ; they are alfo adorned with the hair of Lions, and feathers fattened on their heads, with many other fantaflical ornaments. When they are about nine years of age they undergo the operation of being circum-cifed, and afterwards wear a muzzle of leather which covers the extremity of the penis, and is fufpended by a leathern thong from their middle. This covering is in general ornamented with beads and brafs rings, which they purchafe from the Hottentots for tobacco and Dacka. They are extremely fond of dogs, which they exchange for cattle, and to fuch a height do they carry this paffion, that if one particularly pleafes them, they will give two bullocks in exchange for it. Their whole exercife through the day is hunting, fighting, or dancing. They are expert in throwing their lances, and in time of war ufe fhields made of the hides of oxen. The women are employed in the cultivation of their gardens and corn.
They cultivate feveral vegetables, which are not indigenous to their country, fuch as Tobacco, Water-melons, a fmall fort of Kidney-beans, and Hemp, none of which I found growing fpontaneoufly. The women make their bafkets, and the mats which they ileep on. The men have great pride in their cattle ; they cut their horns in fuch a way as to be able to turn them into any lliape they pleafe, and teach them to anfwer a whiffle. Some of them ufe an inftrument for this purpofe, ftmilar to a Bofhman's pipe. When they wifh their cattle to return home, they go a little way from the houfe and blow this fmall inftrument, which is made of ivory- or bone, and fo conftrucfed as to be heard at a great diftance, and in this manner bring all their cattle home without any difficulty,. The foil of this country is a blackifti loomy ground, and fa extremely fertile, that every vegetable fubftance, whether fown or planted, grows here with great luxuriance.
There are great variations in the climate ; but I had na thermometer to obferve the degrees of heat. It feldom rains except in the fummer feafon, when it is accompanied with thunder and lightning. The country is, however, extremely well fup-plied with water, not only from the high land to the north, which furnifhcs abundance throughout the year, but from many fountains of excellent water, which are found in the woods. From what I obferved of this country, I am induced to believe that it is greatly fuperior to any other known part of Africa.
The woods produce variety of arboreous plants, and fome of a great fize : they are inhabited by Elephants, Buffaloes, &c. There were alfo variety of beautiful Birds and Butterflies ; but they were fo fhy, that I was able only to preferve two Birds of that country.
When we returned to our waggon, on the ninth, we were accompanied by the chief and about fix hundred of his fervants or foldiers, who followed us till noon, when we took leave of them. We then directed our courfe towards the Great Fifh River, where we ftayed all night.
The next morning we left our Hottentot, with a gun, as he was fo much fatigued that he could not keep pace with us. Two days afterwards he overtook us, and on his way had fhot two Rhinocerofes, and brought part of the flefh with him, which proved good eating, being very young and tender.
On the twelfth we proceeded on our return by the route we had before taken ; and I collected many feeds, and fruits of evergreens, in the woods.
We arrived at the Now Tio towards the evening. Mr. Van Renan left the waggon, accompanied by fome Hottentots, with an intention of {hooting at a herd of Buffaloes, which thev obferved at about the diftance of a mile. Before they returned there were many loud claps of thunder, with lightning and heavy rain ; and it became fo dark that they loft their way. We could make no fires, on account of the rain, till about
They cultivate feveral vegetables, which are not indigenous to their country, fuch as Tobacco, Water-melons, a fmall fort of Kidney-beans, and Hemp, none of which I found growing fpontaneoufly. The women make their baftkets, and the mats which they fleep on. The men have great pride in their cattle ; they cut their horns in fuch a way as to be able to turn them into any fhape they pleafe, and teach them to anfwer a whittle. Some of them ufe an inftrument for this purpofe, fimilar to a Roftiman's pipe. When they wifti their cattle to return home, they go a little way from the houfe and blow this fmall inftrument, which is made of ivory or bone, and fo conftrucled as to be heard at a great diftance, and in this manner bring all their cattle home without any difficulty. The foil of this country is a blackiih loomy ground, and fo extremely fertile, that every vegetable fubftance, whether fown or planted, grows here with great luxuriance.
There are great variations in the climate ; but I had no thermometer to obferve the degrees of heat. It feldom rains except in the fummer feafon, when it is accompanied with thunder and lightning. The country is, however, extremely well fup-plied with water, not only from the high land to the north, which furnifhes abundance throughout the year, but from many fountains of excellent water, which are found in the woods. From what I obferved of this country, I am induced to believe that it is greatly fuperior to any other known part of Africa.
THIRD   JOURNEY. 95 The woods produce variety of arboreous plants, and fome of *779-
1 • 1   1 • 11 _   «. February.
a great fize: they are inhabited by Elephants, Buffaloes, &c. There were alfo variety of beautiful Birds and Butterflies; but they were fo fhy, that I was able only to preferve two Birds of that country.
When we returned to our waggon, on the ninth, we were accompanied by the chief and about fix hundred of his fervants or foldiers, who followed us till noon, when we took leave of them. We then directed our courfe towards the Great Fifh River, where we ftayed all night.
The next morning we left our Hottentot, with a gun, as he was fo much fatigued that he could not keep pace with us. Two days afterwards he overtook us, and on his way had fhot two Rhinocerofes, and brought part of the flefh with him, which proved good eating, being very young and tender.
On the twelfth we proceeded on our return by the route we had before taken ; and I collected many feeds, and fruits of evergreens, in the woods.
We arrived at the Now Tio towards the evening. Mr. Van Renan left the waggon, accompanied by fome Flottentots, with an intention of {hooting at a herd of Buffaloes, which thev obferved at about the diftance of a mile. Before they returned there were many loud claps of thunder, with lightning and heavy rain ; and it became fo dark that they loft their way. We could make no fires, on account of the rain, till about
T779-   nine, when the ftorm was much abated, and we lighted feveral,
February. 7 , # °
*—v—' which they foon faw.  About ten, they arrived at the waggon. Mr. Van Renan I found had fallen into the river.
The next morning we mined our cattle, and difpatched our Flottentots in purfuit of them, who returned in the evening without having obferved any traces of them.
The following morning Mr. Kock and I faddled our horfes, and directed our courfe through the country in fearch of them, and found them at the Bolhman's River, about twenty miles diftant. We then returned with fome of Mr. Kock's Hottentots.
Upon our arrival at Cableows Rivier, we agreed to remain in that place a few days. Here we were fupplied with great variety of fruit, as it was in the height of the feafon for Grapes, Water-melons, and Peaches.
After parting with our hofpitable friend, we directed our courfe fouth by weft, towards the houfe of our companion, Mr. Kock, which is fituate on the Zie Koe Rivier, or Sea Cow River, fo called from its being formerly inhabited by the Hippopotamus. We here obferved that many of our oxen were lick ; they, had caught a difeafe, called the Klow fick-nefs, which rages among the horned cattle in the fummer, and affects their hoofs fo much that they drop off, and numbers of the cattle die.   Mr. Van Renan difpatched one of
his Hottentots to his father's houfe, who returned to us with a fupply of frefh cattle.
We proceeded weftward from this place, and on the firft of March, in the evening, arrived at the houfe of a Dutchman, where we refted that night, and the next day pafled the Krome Rivier.
In a few days we arrived at the houfe of one Veraira, a wealthy farmer, where we had the mortification to find our cattle in the fame condition as before, and thofe we had brought from the Cableows River ftill worfe than the others.
Upon finding the country extremely dry, and fcarcely a plant to be feen, I left Mr. Van Renan with the waggon, and directed my courfe towards the Cape, where I arrived on the twenty-third of March, after a journey of three months,.
FOURTH   JOURNE Y.
Rie Beck's Caflle—Verioren Valley—Lofe our way—"Joined by Colonel Gordon —Separate again—Depredations by Lions—Hartebeejl Rivier—Joined again by Colonel Gordon—Arrive at the lajl houfe to the northward, along the Atlantic Ocean—Fear of the natives to accompany us—Dreary defarts— Afflicting fcarcity of water—Lofe Mr. Pinar, Colonel Gordon s companion —OftriclSs nefl—Orange River—Beautiful plants—Meet with Mr. Pinar: diflrefsful fitnation of that gentleman, and the Hottentots who accompanied him—Wild Men : unable to form any intercourfe with them : defcription of their huts—Converfe at length with the natives—The country very thinly inhabited—Government a?id maimers of thefe favages—Plant ufed by the Hottentots to produce fre—Herd of Zebras—Horned Snake—Part with Colonel Gordon—Copper Berg—Defcription of the woods on Orange River, and the animals found there—Lions River—Manners of the people in this part of Africa—Curious fpecies of Sheep—Obfervations on the African mountains—Camelopardalis—Small Nimiqua Land—Camdinie Rivier— Hunting the Antelope—Plant made ufe of for poifoning Hyenas.
jf~^\N the eighteenth of June, feventeen hundred and feventy-nine, I again departed from the Cape Town, in company with Mr. Sebaftian Van Renan. We directed our courfe to Ronde Bofch, his father's houfe, where we were detained three days by the inclemency of the weather.
Upon leaving this place, we proceeded north, towards the Groena Kloaf, a country of which the greateft part belongs to the Dutch Company.   After pafling a heavy fand, we arrived
f779« at a houfe belonging to the Company's butcher, where we re-—>—1 mained all night. Here I found Oxalifes of feveral forts, and Hyacinths. This part of the country abounds with variety of game. There are feveral forts of Water-fnipes, Pheafants, and Partridges. There is alfo the Sten Bock and Hartebeeft; but at certain times of the year it is forbidden to fhoot here.
From this place we directed out courfe north-eaft, through Swart Land, and in the evening arrived at Rie Beck's Caftle, at the houfe of one Mr. Drover, a wealthy farmer, where we remained two days. Hence I made an excurfion to the Rie Beck's Caftle Berg ; but as this was the winter feafon, very few plants were in flower. On the top of this hill a piece of cannon is placed for the purpofe of giving fignals, to prevent furprize from an enemy, and to alarm the adjacent country.
We parted with our friendly hoft, Mr. Droyer, on the twenty-fifth, and continued our journey. In the evening we arrived at the Berg Rivier, where we ftayed all night, and early next morning croffed it at a ferry. This day we proceeded on our journey to the Picquet Berg, and the next arrived at the Crois, where we ftayed all night.
From this place we directed our courfe wefterly, along the Verloren Valley, or Loft Valley ; and in the evening came to the houfe of Mr. Gueff. During the night of the twenty-fifth, a very heavy rain fell, which fwelled the river fo much that the next day we found it impaffable. The farmer was much pleafed with our company, and intreated us to prolong
our flay for feveral days, to which, as the river ftSl continued *779-
. July.
very high, we agreed.   Upon feeing the waters fubfide, we <—v~» propofed to proceed in our journey, and were ailifted by our hofpitable friend, who fupplied us with fome of his cattle, which were more accuttomed to pafling the flood than our own.   The river was broad, and in feveral places the oxen were obliged to fwim.    When we reached the oppofite fliore we directed our courfe northward, through a high fandy country, interfperfed with variety of Afpalathufes, Gnaphaliums, &c. At night we arrived at the Lange Valley, at the houfe of Mrs. Low, an old French woman, who had long lived in this part of the country, and was poffelfed of numerous herds of cattle ; here we flayed all night.
The following day we proceeded on our journey through a large fandy plain, towards the Flier Lodfiement, which is above forty miles diftant. At night we came to the Jackals Valley, where, though we found no water, we were obliged to remain a few hours in order to refrelli our oxen, which were much fatigued. About two in the morning we proceeded to the place where we intended to reft, and in our way called at the Hier Lodfiement, where we knew there would be water. Wc arrived at nine in the afternoon, and found a peafant who had arrived about two hours before us. I inquired which way he was going, obferving he had many Hottentots and a number of guns in his waggon, he told me that his courfe was towards the Great River, and that he intended to accompany Colonel Gordon, whom I left at the Cape, but expected he would foon overtake us..   In the afternoon we directed our courfe
July' towards tne Elephants River ; but unluckily in the night '—*—j loft our way. We faw fome fires, which we expected had been made at the place of our deftination ; but on our arrival at the fpot, we found they had been lighted by fome Hottentots who had the care of a flock of ftieep belonging to a Dutchman. One of them directed us on our right way, and at two in the morning we came to the houfe of Peter Van Syl, who had lived on the banks of this river for many years. Our waggon was fo much damaged, on our journey hither from the Cape, that we were compelled to remain here a few days in order to have it repaired.
When this bufinefs was completed, we tranfported our baggage and waggon acrofs the river, which at this time was high. In the evening Colonel Gordon arrived ; but as he was purfuing a different route, we appointed to meet in the Small Nimiqua Land, and then to proceed together along the fliore of the Atlantic Ocean, as far as we could poffibly travel to the northward.
We next directed our courfe to the Bokke Lands Bergen, where we had appointed to receive a team of frefh oxen. When we arrived at the Bokke Veld, we afcended the mountain, and left the waggon by a fmall fountain ; the path being impaflable on account of the heavy rains which had fallen. At this place we fupplied ourfelves with fome provifion ; and Mr. Van Renan took a cart with him, and fixteen bullocks belonging to his father.
We proceeded on our journey towards the Small Nimiqua Land, and arrived at the Thorn River, where, during the night of the fixteenth, we heard the roaring of Lions, which we fuppofed to be about a thoufand yards from us.
On our way to a place, called the Lion's Den, we met a Flottentot, who informed us that, at his Kraal, the family had been vifited by the fame Lions which we had heard, and that they had devoured two of his calves. This Flottentot was the fervant of Mrs. Ryck, and lived here in the Karo during the winter feafon, the charge of part of her cattle having been committed to him. After travelling till night without finding a drop of water, and being fo unfortunate as to lofe our way, we were obliged to flop till the next morning. During the night Mr. Van Renan loft his horfe, which we fuppofed had returned to the Bokke Veld, whence we had brought him. At day-light we proceeded on our journey, and at ten in the morning arrived at the Lion's Den, where we refted all day, and were vifited by feveral of the Bofhmen.
We next continued our journey to the Reed, or Brack Fountain, where we had very indifferent water, and thence proceeded to the Hartebeeft Rivier, where I found feveral beautiful plants.
From this place we went on to Three Fountain, where we ftayed all night, and early the following day continued our journey north-weft, to the Green River, where we had the
fatisfa&ion of meeting Colonel Gordon, who had arrived there only a few hours before us.
On the banks of this river our caravan made a fhort flay, of which I was glad to take advantage in order to vifit and infpedt the flope of the Camis Berg, which is adorned with a great variety of evergreen fhrubs ; but as this was the winter feafon, I found very few in flower.
When properly relied, we determined on profecutmg our journey to the northward, having the Camis Berg on our right hand ; and in the evening, of the twenty-fifth, arrived at a Hottentot village, which confifted of eighteen huts, where we paffed the night, and next day continued our courfe northward. At noon we met a peafant who had come from the Great River, and was travelling towards the Cape, accompanied by a deferter, who had been feven years abfent, and had travelled over a great part of the country. This poor fellow was a native of Sweden, and made many fenfible reflections upon his misfortunes in Africa. This evening we arrived at the houfe of one Hermannias Engelbright, where we ftayed feveral days, and fupplied ourfelves with neceffaries for our intended journey alone the fhore of the Atlantic Ocean, as this was the laft houfe we were likely to meet with in our way. It is fituate on a branch of the Camis Berg ; and, according to Colonel Gordon's obfervation of the barometer, we found it to be two thoufand and eighty feet high, and in latitude thirty degrees. We were ftrenuoufly aclvifed by the natives not to proceed farther,.   They informed us that we had to pafs an uninha-
FOURTH  JOURNEY, I0£ bited defart, where neither man nor beaft was vifible, where »779-
. Auguft.
there was a great fcarcity of water, and hardly a blade of grafs >—i—t for the fupport of our cattle. Notwithftanding thefe difcou-ragements, we refolved to proceed as far as we poflibly could; and it was agreed that one of us fliould fet out a few days before the other, and that we fliould endeavour, if poflible, to meet at the mouth of the Great River. Colonel Gordon accordingly parted from us, and proceeded on his intended journey, entirely without a guide, as the natives at that time refufed to accompany us. The next day, after much perfua-fion, I prevailed on one, who was rather more fpirited than the reft, to attend me, for which I recompenfed him with fome beads and tobacco ; we were alfo accompanied by a brother of my companion, Jacobus Van Renan, who had been to the eaftward to ihoot Elephants.
On the firft of Auguft, we departed from this place, and were fupplied with a team of frefh oxen for two days. The day after our departure we continued our journey about ten miles to the weftern extremity of the mountain, where we had a view of the Atlantic at the diftance of about forty miles. Here I collected feveral plants, fuch as Ixias, Gladiolus, &c.
We defcended the mountain with much difficulty, as it was both fteep and rugged ; and towards the evening, of the fecond, we arrived at a fountain of brackifh water. The foil in this part of the country confifts of a fandy clay.
p
We next directed our courfe through a fandy plain, where I found a variety of plants ; but as moft of them were of the fucculent tribe, I could preferve no perfect fpecimens. In the evening we faw the dung of Elephants, and at night came to a hollow rock, where we had abundance of water ; on the north and fouth fide were lofty mountains of a conical figure,, and covered with the Aloe Dichotoma.
In the afternoon, of the following day, we proceeded on our journey through a fandy country. In the night we paffed feveral dangerous places, and faw the print of Lions, which occafioned us to flay all night at a pit of brackifh water. This was not a country which flattered us with the expectation of pleafure ; we therefore continued our journey northward, as foon as day, along a bed of heavy fand, between two precipices. This fand is driven down by the violent torrents of water which fall here during the fummer feafon; but at this time the ground was almoft dry, and the little water we found was rather fait; at many places indeed where the water had dried up, were quantities of excellent fait. At night we arrived at the Coufie, or Sand River ; we were now about ten miles from the Atlantic Ocean, where the Sand River empties itfelf. The banks afforded us excellent pafture for our cattle, and as they were greatly fatigued, we agreed to reft a few days, and to range the adjacent fields in fearch of plants.
During our refidence in this place, one of my Hottentots who had been upon the hill, told us that he faw two waggons about three miles to the weftward, which we fuppofed to
belong to Colonel Gordon. Soon after I received a letter from J7<9*
. . Auguft.
him, and we proceeded to the Rhinoceros Fountain. The '—v—-> river was frequented by a variety of Water-fowl, which afforded us excellent fport; among thefe we found great numbers of Flamingoes, of two fpecies, one much fmaller than the other. We ftayed here two days, and made excurfions along the fliore, where we faw ftrata of the moft beautiful rocks I ever beheld, fome of them as white as fnow, and others veined with red and other colours, this we took for a fpecies of quartz. Here we faw feveral huts made of the ribs of Whales, and others of Elephants bones ; but we perceived that they had not been inhabited for many years.
Colonel Gordon's companion, and the two Van Renans, being informed of a herd of Elephants which were feen to the northward, left us on the feventh, while we directed our courfe to the mouth of the river, where was a large lake of water which communicated with the fea. Here we expected to catch fome fifh, but we found none that were larger than a fprat. In the afternoon we ftiot fome wild Ducks and returned to the waggon. In the evening our companions returned, finding the Elephants were gone.
From this place we directed our courfe north, through a fandy country. We* travelled the whole day, and at night were informed by our guide, that we were not half way to the firft water, and that, as it was extremely dark, he would not venture to conduct or direct us through the fandy downs which lay along the fliore, and extended many miles to the eaftward.
On hearing this we determined to remain where we were till day-light, when we proceeded on our journey, through the moft barren country I ever vifited. Several of our Hottentots complained, and wanted much to return. After travelling all day and towards the evening, not difcerning any appearance of water, the country every where being equally dry, we con-fulted with our guide, who feemed not perfectly to know, whether we had pafled the water or not. We all agreed to fet out with our guide in fearch of water, and leave the waggons under the care of a fervant of Colonel Gordon, and took with us a few bottles, that if we fliould be fortunate enough to find water, we might fend fome to our Hottentots, who had not tafted any for two days. After travelling about four miles, we difcovered a fountain on the fhore, but which at high water was overflowed by the fea. This water was extremely difagreeable, and the quantity fo fmall as to be barely fufficient for ourfelves and our horfes. After flightly refrefhing ourfelves, Colonel Gordon and an Hottentot returned to the waggon and took with them fome water for our fervants, while we determined to remain at the fountain. Here we fliot fome Flamingoes, which we eat. About midnight one of our Hottentots arrived, who had been abfent from us two days ; he had fhot a Chamois Bock, part of which he brought with him,, and it proved good eating.
#
The fucceeding day we made an excurfion along the coaff, which is low and rocky, with ftrong furfs off fliore, which break about four miles from the land. We tried to fifh at feveral places, without fuccefs, but the rocks were covered
with Mufcles, and in the inlets, or fmall bays, were numbers ^779^ of wild Ducks, many of which we fhot; but they were fo oily, 1—t—j as to prove very dilagreeable food.  In my botanical refearches, I found a variety of Mezembryanthemum, which I had never feen before.
After filling fome empty cafks, on the next day, we con-, tinued our journey northward. Colonel Gordon and myfelf left the waggon at ten in the morning, and purfued our journey along the fliore, where we faw feveral huts. Great numbers of fhells lay in heaps about thofe huts, which inclined us to fuppofe that the inhabitants fubfiiled entirely on the fifh which they contained. At about one mile diftant from the fliore we faw a fmall ifland where we obferved feveral pieces of wood ftuck into the ground; but we could not perceive any huts, and were convinced, by the number of Seals which we faw every where round it, that at this time it was uninhabited. Along the fhore we obferved many bones of Seals. At nine in the evening we found that we had loft our way, and the guide advifed us to continue where we were till next morning. This day Colonel Gordon's companion left us, and promifed that he would return at night to the waggons. We accordingly made fires, that he might difcern where we were, but in vain. We faftened the cattle, and remained in this place during the night.
In the morning we continued our courfe north, through a fandy country. We obferved to the eaftward a high ridge of fandy hills evidently thrown up by the fouth-eaft winds, which
VT779-   blow here every day.   At noon we obferved we were in lat-
Auguit. J t J
u—v—j titude twenty-nine degrees, five minutes ; we then left the waggons, and directed our courfe along the fliore, which was much elevated. In the higheft rocks we found feveral petrifactions of fhells, fome of which were about an hundred and fifty feet above the furface of the fea.
Colonel Gordon's cattle began to drop down in the waggon, having had neither grafs nor water for two days ; but my waggoners kept on their journey, and unknown to me left the others behind. At nine in the evening we overtook my waggon, and found our people had been coniulting whether or not they fliould return, as they had not the leaft profpect of finding water. They fuppofed that Colonel Gordon's companion had loft his way, and were in great doubt whether we fliould ever fee or hear of him more. About ten, one of the Flottentots arrived, who had left the waggon in company with him, but parted the firft day. He brought the glad tidings, that he had found a fountain of excellent water about fix miles to the northward, and brought a little with him in a calabafh. This animated us greatly, and next morning Colonel Gordon and Jacobus Van Renan returned to his waggon, while we directed our courfe to the fountain, which we reached about nine, and the others arrived at noon. This place not only afforded us good water, but excellent grafs for our cattle, and variety of fucculent plants, fuch as Geraniums, Stapelias and Me■'.embryanthemums. This fountain is fituate between the two precipices, which were much decayed and worn.
We continued here a whole day in order to reft our cattle, ^779-and in the meanwhile Colonel Gordon and myfelf made an '—*— excurfion to the fea, which was diftant about nine miles. We faw many large Mimofa trees which had been thrown up by the ocean, and fome at the diftance of a mile from the water were almoft buried in the fand ; from thefe appearances we concluded we were not far from the Great River.
We directed our courfe northward, on the fifteenth, and with much difficulty and fatigue we penetrated about ten miles, through a fandy country. In our road along the fliore we obferved the traces of human feet, which appeared fo recent that we concluded fome perfon had pafled that way on that day or the day preceding. We were in hopes that thefe might have been fome of the Hottentots who accompanied Mr. Pinar, Colonel Gordon's companion. In the night we made fires as a fignal, but the fignal was not anfwered ; we concluded therefore that they muft have been the wild natives ; and from finding the fkin of a Seal, which was quite frefh,. our conjecture was confirmed. We now loft all hopes of ever feeing Mr. Pinar again, as he had been feparated from us four days in thefe dreary defarts, without our having been able to difco-ver whither he could have directed his fteps.
During the following day our route lay to the northward, and at noon we paffed two hills, which we had obferved during our journey the two preceding days. As they were fituate at a very fmall diftance from each other, and were very fimilar in their figure and fize, we gave them the name of the Two
1779- Brothers : and in this defolate region there was no one who —v—» could difpute any denomination hy which we chofe to diftin-guiili whatever we met with. To the northward we difcovered a large valley about three miles diftant, but found there was no water. This Colonel Gordon called Benting's Valley. We were obliged to ftay here all night, as our cattle was fo much fatigued that it was impoflible to proceed farther ; our guide informed us that we were then about eight miles from the river.
Early in the morning, Colonel Gordon, Jacobus Van Renan and I, left the waggons and proceeded on our journey. In our way we found an Oftrich neil, containing thirty-four frefh eggs, which proved excellent food. We faw feveral Zebras, Quachas, and Elks. At ten in the forenoon we arrived at the river, which appeared at once to be a new creation to us. After having paffed nine days in croffmg an arid and fultry defart, where no living animal was to be feen, and during which our cattle had but twice tafled the luxury of a drop of water. We here unfaddled our horfes and refrefhed ourfelves by the fide of the river, under the fhacle of a Willow, which hung over its banks ; and afterwards made an excurfion along the river to the eaftward, hoping that we fliould find fome appearance of our loft companion, who had been feven days abfent from the waggons. We obferved feveral old uninhabited huts, where were numbers of Baboons bones, with thofe of various other wild beafts. About a thoufand yards from the banks of the river, the country is extremely barren, and to the eaftward very mountainous.   On thefe eminences there is fcarcely any
apparent vegetation; but in the plain part of the country to the weftward, I found a variety of the moft beautiful plants, particularly Geraniums and Afclepias; but very few of the fucculent kind. The banks of the river produce lofty trees peculiar to this country, fuch as Mimofa, Salix, and a fpecies of Rhus, called by the Dutch, Rezyne Houd. There are alfo a few trees of Ebony ; but to the eaftward it grows in ftill greater abundance. In the afternoon our waggon not being arrived, we returned the fame way we came, and found our people had taken a different direction. We followed their track, and overtook them near the mouth of the river.
In the evening we launched Colonel Gordon's boat, and hoifted Dutch colours. Colonel Gordon propofed firft to drink the States' health, and then that of the Prince of Orange, and the Company; after which he gave the river the name of the Orange River, in honour of that Prince. We agreed to remain in this fituation a few days, and to vifit the oppofite fliore, as we had in this place very good pafture for our cattle.
The following day, therefore, we employed ourfelves in fiflung, and towards the evening had the great fatisfaction of once more beholding our loft companion, Mr. Pinar, who arrived with three of the Hottentots. They looked dreadfully ill, having travelled five days through fultry clefarts, over fandy hills and rocky mountains, without tailing food or fwallowing a drop of water. On the fifth day they difcovered a fmall fountain, where they left one of the Hottentots, who was fo •exhaufted that they had no expectation he could furvive the
0.
clay. Mr. Pinar appeared to be much lefs injured by his unfortunate expedition than the Hottentots ; their eyes were funk in their heads, and they appeared more like dead than living men.
We made an excurfion, on the nineteenth, along the fliore^ where we found numbers of wild Geefe, Ducks, Flamingoes, Pelicans, &x. The land forms a flat point, which extends from the mouth of the river, north-weft half weft: the Two Brothers, fouth-eaft by fouth, are diftant about twelve miles., The mouth is about half a mile in breadth ; but is enclofecl by a ridge of rocks which lie a mile from the fliore, in a direction eaft and weft, and which render it impoflible for fhips to enter the river. The land is extremely low and barren ; to the weftward, fandy ; and to the eaft, rocky. In the evening our Hottentot arrived, whom we had never expected to fee again.
The next day I crofted the river, in company with Colonel Gordon, and left the boat in order to make an excurfion to the weftward. Here we obferved the print of human feet, which appeared to us to be frefh. Upon this we refolved to purfue the track, and on our way faw feveral fnares laid for the wild beafts. After travelling about five miles to the northward, we perceived fome of the natives on a fandy hillock, about one mile from us ; we made feveral fignals to them, but they feemed to be quite wild, and made their efcape. We continued to follow their path, which brought us to their habitation ; but we were ftill as unable to bring about any inter-
68
courfe with them as before ; for the whole family immediately betook themfelves to flight, except a little Dog, which feemed to be equally unacquainted with Europeans. Here we ftayed fome time, and examined their huts. In them we found feveral fpecies of aromatic plants which they had been drying, and a few fkins of Seals. Their huts were much fuperior to thofe of the generality of Hottentots ; they were loftier, and thatched with grafs ; and were furnifhed with flools made of the back bones of the Grampus. Several fpecies of fifh were fufpended from poles ftuck into the ground. Having nothing about us which we thought would prove an acceptable prefent, Colonel Gordon cut the buttons from his coat, and depofited them among the aromatic plants which were drying. In the mean time we again obferved thefe natives at the fame place where we had firft difcovered them. Yvre made every poflible fign in order to allure them to us, and difpatched one of our Hottentots, who fpoke to them and affured them we had no evil intention. After fome time, Colonel Gordon went to them while I remained at their huts with the guns, and after much perfuafion he induced them to return to their Kraal. They were eleven in number, and were the only natives who inhabited this part of the country. We inquired after other nations, but they could give us no account, except of the Nimiquas, whence we had juft come. A Nimiqua woman who lived with them, was the only one of the company who knew any thing of Europeans. Though few in number, they were governed by a chief, whofe name was Cout. The mode of living amongft thefe people was in the higheft degree wretched ; and they are apparently the dirtieft of all the Hottentot tribes.
1779.   Their drefs is compofed of the fkins of Seals and Tackals, the
Auguft. 1 f j 7
^—**** flefh of which they eat. When it happens that a Grampus is call: afhore, they remove their huts to the place, and fubfift upon it as long as any part of it remains ; and in this manner it fometimes affords them fuftenance for half a year, though in a great meafure decayed and putrified by the fun. They fmear their fkins with the oil or train ; the odour of which is fo powerful, that their approach may be perceived fome time before they prefent rhpmfelves co the fight. They carry their water in the {hells of Oftrich eggs, and the bladders of Seals, which they Ihoot with bows. Their arrows are the fame as thofe of all the other Hottentots.
Towards the evening we returned to our boat, accompanied by four of the natives. Our companions had been the whole day employed in fiihing, with tolerable fuccefs ; part of the fifh they had taken we gave to the ftrangers, which they thankfully received, and returned to their habitation. We next propofed to crofs the river to our waggons. The evening, however, being dark, our boat overloaded, and we totally ignorant of our courfe, we got into the furf, quite in the mouth of the river, and had a very narrow efcape. We were about half an hour in great danger; but one of our Hottentots ob-ferving the fires made by our companions, we foon got into the right track.
The following day we made an excurfion through the adjacent country, but found no great variety of plants, except Geraniums.   The next day we again crofFed the river, to
GERANIUM   S PINO S VM
inquire whether there was any poflibility of proceeding on our journey to the eaftward ; but of this the natives feemed unable to give us any information. We obferved that all thofe people had loft the firft joint of their little finger; the reafon they gave for cutting it off" was, that it was a cure for a particular ficknefs to which they were fubject when young.
The laft day we intended to remain at this part of the river, we employed in fifhing, and were vifited by our friends from the oppofite fliore. 1 obferved they eat, with a very good appetite, fome old flioes which fome of our Flottentots gave them. Their own flioes are made of a piece of leather which merely defends the foles of their feet from thorns, and is in general fattened to their toes and ankle. As we obferved a great number of huts along the fliore which were uninhabited, and yet found only eleven perfons dwelling in this part of the country, we conjectured that by fome accident feveral of thefe people had perifhed, Thofe that remain are diftinguiftied by the name of the Shore Bofhmem By a very accurate obfervation we found the mouth of the river to be in latitude twenty-eight degrees, thirty-three minutes ; the longitude differs but little from that of the Cape.
The morning, of the twenty-fifth, we profecuted our journey to the eaftward, keeping along the banks of the river, being informed that there were many Hippopotami, one of which we were quite near ; but we had left our guns in the waggon^ which occafioned us much vexation, as we had fcarcely any
provifion for our Hottentots. We ftill continued our courfe to the eaftward, collecting different plants.
In the afternoon we met Jacobus Van Renan, who had been about fix miles to the eaftward, and had only feen the prints of three Hippopotami, which feemed to be frefh, and he believed they were gone to the mouth of the river. We informed him of that which we had feen, and he fired feveral fhots at the animal, but without- being able to give him a mortal wound.
In the evening, Sebaftian Van Renan, and Mr. Pinar, returned to the waggon, and acquainted us that there were a number of Lions about twelve miles to the eaftward, attracted by a dead Elephant which had been fliot by Mr. Pinar during the time he was abfent from the waggons.
We continued our excurfion to the eaftward, through a hilly country, and the moft barren I ever faw. The hills were naked and decayed, with hardly a plant to be feen upon them; in the lower parts there were here and there a little grafs: from thefe appearances we judged that it would be in vain to think of proceeding farther. We agreed, therefore, to remain a few days, and if poflible, to fhoot fome game for provifion on our way through the dry country we had to pafs. Mr. Pinar, however, refolved to direct his courfe to the eaftward, and took with him five Hottentots, each of whom was provided with a gun. While we remained here, I found a plant which the Hottentots ufe to procure fire by friction.   I found
It to be of the clafs Tetrandria Monygiriia.   The plant I ob- *779^ ferved about an hundred miles to the eaftward, on the fame '—v—»■ river which I had vifited in the courfe of the preceding year.
We fent our Hottentots out in fearch of game, on the twenty-feventh, while I employed myfelf in collecting plants ; one of them returned who had fhot a Hart, which fupplied us for three days ; and Jacobus Van Renan wounded an Hippopotamus ; but it fwam to a place on the oppofite fide, where there was no poflibility of approaching it.
On the twenty-eighth of Auguft, we prepared our waggon for our departure ; and the twenty-ninth, of the following evening, left the river, intending to travel in the night, which we conceived would be better for our cattle. After travelling about three hours, our dogs attacked a herd of Zebras, which were at a little diftance from the waggons ; they feemed not in the leaft fhy, and we fliot two of them, which detained us about an hour ; part of the flefh we took with us, and it-proved very good food. On paffing the Two Brothers, we obferved a fire which we fuppofed was made by three of our Hottentots who had left us in. the morning. We travelled till four in the morning, when we unyoked our bullocks in a dry fandy plain.
During the thirty-firft, we continued our journey to the Deepe Kloaf, or Water Val, where we refted; and in the evening, of the following day, proceeded on our route till about
„ J779-   two in the morning.   The next dav we arrived at the Great,
September. . .
l—^—1 or Sea Fountain. On our way we killed feveral Snakes, one in particular, called the Horned Snake; this fpecies meafures from twelve to eighteen inches long, and is fuppofed to be very venomous.
On the third of September we continued our journey through the defart, but were obliged to flop in order to reft our oxen, which were fo much fatigued that it was impoftlble to proceed farther, when we were about twelve miles from the Coufie, or Sand River.
We proceeded on the evening of the fourth, and next morning arrived at the river, where we refted the following day, having excellent grafs and water for our oxen.
On the fixth, we profecuted our journey thence to the Small Nimiqua Land, and ftopped that night on the fame river, about eight miles to the eaftward of Rhinoceros Fountain, which we had before vifited. Our provifion began to be fliort; but one of the Hottentots determined, notwithftanding this circum-ftance, not to be deprived of his meal, contrived during the night to rob the others of their fhoes, which he completely devoured.
From this place we continued our journey to Cock Fountain, where we arrived on the eleventh. Here we were vifited by feveral Nimiquas, who brought us milk, for which we were very thankful, and gave them fome tobacco and Dacka in
return.   Among; thefe Hottentots was our 2*uide Pedro, who . *779-
0 0 ( September.
had left us a few days before : there were alfo two captains, 1—> one of whom had a cane, dated fe veil teen hundred and five, and his name engraved on the top of it, Vulcan;  and the other had one with the name, Jephtah.
In the morning I difpatched a Hottentot to Hermannias Engelbright, defiling him to fend us a fupply of frefh cattle, in order to enable us to afcend a fteep hill which lay in our next day's journey.
On our firft. arrival amongft our hofpitable friends, we were quite invigorated, and delighted with the appearance of every thing around us. We had exchanged a country untrodden by human feet, or only inhabited by the mofl wretched of favages, for the fociety of friends and generous hofls, and after a journey of fix weeks, through dry and fultry defarts, found ourfelves in a land adorned with flowers of the moft beautiful colours. The contraft was truly exhilirating, though it was not unexpected. Moft of the plants in this part of the country were well known to me, fuch as Ixias, Gladiolus, Geraniums, and a great variety of Orchifes, which are produced in the marfhes. We agreed to remain here a few days, during which I loft my companion, Colonel Gordon, who intended to direct his courfe to the eaftward in fearch of a nation, called Briquas, of the Caffre tribe. My intention was to proceed to the northward, to crofs the Orange River, and to vifit the Great Nimiqua Land.   During my ftay at this place, I made
R
, r779-   feveral excurfions along; the mountains, where I added confi-
>eptember. ° '
u*-v—^ derably to my collection.
We prevailed upon our friend, Hermannias Engelbright, to accompany us in our intended expedition ; and he took with him three good horfes. We then directed our courfe north, over a rugged path, involved in many turnings between the branches of the Camis Berg ; and in the evening of the twenty-fecond, came to a Hottentot village- which confifted of eleven huts, where wc flayed all night.
The next day we continued our journey to the houfe of one Vander Hever, where we remained till the following evening, and then proceeded on our journey till midnight, when we reached the Copper Mountain. The water at this place was brackifh.
In the afternoon of the twenty-fifth, we proceeded to the Small Copper Bergs Fountain, where we had tolerably good water. Here I made an excurfion along the hills, which have all a rugged appearance, and moft of them contain copper ore.
We continued our journey to the Small Brack Fountain, where we faw the frefh print of Lions, and proceeded to the Great Brack Fountain. Here we met feveral Hottentots who had been at the Great Nimiqua Land, exchanging cattle for beads and tobacco. They told us that the river was paflable, but feemed rather to fvvell when they left it, which was the
day before.   We ftayed here a couple of days, and ranged the ^779-adjacent part of the country, where I found feveral plants that     >—> I had never before obferved.
We next directed our courfe north by eaft, through a fandy plain ; and after travelling about four miles, found a large rock of a conical figure, where was a fmall fountain of frefh • water. There were feveral Hottentots who came from the Orange River. One of them was a good markfman, and 011 that account we took him with us. After travelling till next day, we were obliged to flop to reft our cattle at about the diftance of fix miles from the river.
On the firft of October I left the waggon, in company with Mr. Van Renan and Engelbright, and directed my courfe to the river. On our firft arrival we were all in great hopes that it was paflable, but were foon convinced of the contrary. We then refolved to proceed to the eaftward, and after fome days arrived at a Hottentot village, fituate by a large wood on the banks of the river. Flere we were informed that Colonel Gordon was about one day's journey to the eaftward, and that he intended to leave his boat at that place. I fent one of the Hottentots to beg him to allow us to make ufe of it, in order to tranfport ourfelves over the river, which was otherwife im-paflable ; but before he returned the river began to decreafe with great rapidity.
On the feventh I made an excurfion through the woods. I found them inhabited by variety of Birds and Monkies, which
are exceedingly ftry. They live on die gum of the Mimoia Nilitico. There are feveral paths made by Elephants and Hippopotami. The country is every where equally barren ; the foil is a loofe fandy clay. Along the banks of the river was good grafs. Here the river divides itfelf into three branches, which are each about a mile broad.
We faw feveral fires to the eaftward; and on the fourteenth we went over the river. The ftream was fo rapid that we had much difficulty in croiling it. We had all our neceflaries packed upon oxen, which I hired from the Flottentots for that purpofe ; and this night encamped under a large Ebony tree, about eight miles to the northward of the river.
We next directed our courfe eaft north-eaft, through a hilly country *, and at noon paffed the Lions River, the banks of which are in general inhabited by thofe animals.  The country is extremely barren, and covered with fmall fliarp ftones, which proved very injurious to our horfes hoofs.   In the evening we arrived at a fmall brackifh fountain, where we ftayed all night, and the next day our way lay through a narrow path between two high mountains.   At noon we faw feveral of the natives, who were in fearch of wild honey.   I found here the moft beautiful plant I ever faw of the Pentandria Monogynia clafs. It grows to fix feet high, and is full of long fpines from the ground to the tops, and forms a large crown of crifped leaves, and reddifh tubelar flowers, tinged with yellow and green. In the afternoon we came to a fountain of brackifh water, where we ftayed all night, being informed by the natives that there
Published March 30. qdff. Sj J- doJuwon. Wt S*Ptodf Churchyard
PubtueluJ Marvfi     i~8tf by J Jf/iHsun iri S' l\mU iVwr^/i yard .
FOURTH  JOURNEY. 125 were numbers of the Camelopardalis in this neighbourhood, *779-
1 ... Odtober.
one of which we were very defirous of fhootlng, as it is a beaft    ■—-» fo little known to Europeans, that even its exiftence has been doubted.
Towards the evening I made an excurfion to a hill which was at a little diftance from us. When I gained the fummit I faw feveral of the natives near a wood of Mimofa, to whom I immediately endeavoured to approach. On my arrival I found they were eating the gum of the trees, on which indeed a great part of thefe people fubfift. They were dreffed exactly as the inhabitants of the Small Nimiqua Land ; fome in the fkins of Jackals, and others in the fkins of Marmottes, fewed together ; thefe animals, being very numerous in this part of the country. Their habitation was about three miles from the fountain, which I vifited in the evening; it confifted of fix huts. Their fheep are very different from thofe near the Cape ; thefe having much longer tails, and being covered with hair inftead of wool, which at a diitance gives them more the appearance of dogs than of fheep.
On the feventeenth we directed our courfe north-eaft, to a-fmall fountain of water ; and took with us fome of the natives who knew the country. On our arrival we were obliged to dig pits in the fand before we could come at the water. This day we made an excurfion through the country, which is level and high. Here we had an extenfive view to the fouthward of the Orange River ; and to the northward of a large plain, bounded at about the diftance of four days journey, by a range
177?*   of mountains in a direction from eaft to weft.   As I before
October.
1—*—> obferved, there is no defcent on the inland fide of thefe mountains, equal to the afcent which we encounter as we proceed from the fea ; in general, a flight defcent. terminates an extenfive plain till we come to the next; and thus the farther the traveller proceeds inland, the higher he finds the fituation. Thefe mountains we were informed was part of the Brenas, or Brequas. In this plain grows a fpecies of Mimofa peculiar to this part of the country ; and alfo a beautiful flirub, called the Wild Apricot; of this I could procure no perfect fpecimen, the fruit being ripe at this time. The country is here inhabited by Zebras, Rbinocerofes, Camelopardalifes, Koedoes, Sec*
We refted our horfes during the next day, intending afterwards to direct our courfe weft north-weft towards a hot bath. In our way we faw fix Camelopardalifes, which we purfued ; one of them, my companion, Mr. Van Renan, fliot; it proved to be a male ; the fkin and fkeleton of which I preferved ; the dimenfions were,
Feet. Inches.
The height of his natural pofition, from the hoof
to the top of the horns,       -          - -         14 9
Ditto from the hoof to the fhoulder, -          9 71
Ditto from the hind hoof to the rump, -          8 ii
Length of the fore legs,        -        - 5 7
Ditto of the hind legs,          - 5 6|
Ditto of the mane from the head to the fhoulders, 5 % I Ditto of the body from the fhoulder to the rump,   5 9
MIMOSA.
!'nl>l.:sl,,\i Mhrdk ;y'.ijd'i/,/>y ./.Mwn. in S'l',m/s CbmTtk,JvW'.
f   I/V7/   t. y/<<■{<:t.
PublinhfiiM/nvh &».ifSg,by<7.Jo!m#cn th S'.Pti/iir Churvfi-yanl
Circumference of the neck below,
Ditto in the middle,
Ditto at the head,
Length of the neck,
Ditto of the tail without the hair,
Ditto with the hair,
Breadth of the hind hoof,
Length of ditto,
Ditto of the fore hoof,
Breadth of ditto,
Length of the horns,
Diftance between ditto,
Feet. Inches. T779* October.
5 O _
2 IO
2 I
5 3
2 91
4 lot •
0 51
o Si
o 8i
0 54
1 of
° 3
Length of the hair of the mane from three to four inches^ and of a reddifh colour*. Thefe animals chiefly fubfift upon the Mimofa, and wild Apricots. Their colour is in general reddifti, or dark brown and white, and fome of them black and white ; they are cloven footed ; have four teats; their tail refembles that of a bullock ; but the hair of the tail is much ftronger, and in general black ; they have eight fore teeth below, but none above, and fix grinders, or double teeth, on each fide above and below ; the tongue is rather pointed and rough ; they have no footlock hoofs ; they are not fwift, but. can continue a long chafe before they flop ; which may be the reafon that few of them are fhot. The ground is fo fharp that a horfe is in general lame before he can get within fhot
* The fkin is now fluffed, and in the pofieflion of John Hunter, Efq. Leicester Square.
1779-   of them, which was the cafe with our horfes, otherwife I fliould
^'October. .
>—,—j have preferved two perfect fpecimens of a male and female. It is difficult to diftinguifh them at any diftance, from the length of their body, which, together with the length of their neck, gives them the appearance of a decayed tree. During our flay at this place my companions wounded two Rhinoce-rofes.
The following day I obferved thunder clouds to the eaftward ; and being apprehenfive of the river becoming impaff-able, we agreed to return the fame way to our waggons, being informed by the natives, that after the appearance of fuch clouds to the eaftward, they had feen the river impafTable in two days, and had frequently known it to continue fo till the month of May. The twenty-firft at night we crofTed the river with fafety, and our Hottentots and oxen arrived on the twenty-fecond.
We were here vifited by fome of the Bufh Hottentots, who had come from the eaftward. Here alfo we parted from our friend and companion, Hermannius Engelbright, who went on before us.
After remaining a few days on the banks of the river, we prepared our waggon, with an intention of proceeding on our journey; but a ftorm came on from the fouth-weft, which obliged us to ftay all night. This tempefl began at noon and continued till midnight, during which time it blew down feveral large trees ; and ftones of a large fize were hurled by
FOURTH  JOURNEY. llt] the force of the wind up very confiderable precipices.   When J77^
ii -i • l November.
the norm abated, we continued our journey to the Small v— Nimiqua Land, where we arrived after a journey of five days, at the houfe of our companion, Engelbright, who informed us, that one of his horfes was devoured by a Lion, the fecond day after he parted from us. We remained here a few days in order to refrefh ourfelves, and to reft our cattle.
On the fourth of November, we took leave of our friend, and directed our courfe towards the Bokke Veld, making fhort . ftays, in fearch of plants.
Mr. Van Renan and I left the waggon on the tenth, and in the evening arrived at the houfe of Mrs. Ryck. The next day we fent frefh oxen to our waggon, which arrived on the eleventh, in the evening. After a ftay of a few days in this place, we continued our journey to the north-eaft, towards the Boihmens Land. In the evening we arrived at the houfe of Jacobus Van Renan, where were about thirty of the Hottentots, who had made peace with the Dutch, were retained in their fervice, and proved more faithful fervants than thofe who had been brought up in fubjection to the Dutch.
In the morning we a little altered our direction, and travelled to the northward, and at night arrived at a brackifh fountain, fituate on a river, called by the Hottentots, Camdinie Rivier, where we remained all night on being informed that there were numbers of Antelopes, called Spring Bocks, in this
neighbourhood, which we intended to have the am-ufement of
s
_ T779-   fliootinff at the next day.   The foil of this country is of a
November. ° * J
j fandy loam, and the water is every where bad., The climate and produce of the country are much the feme as in the vicinity of the Orange River.
On the following morning we left the waggon, and directed our courfe north, and after afcending a high hill, we entered a large plain to the northward. It was covered with the Me-zembrianthemum Tuburonim. Flere we prepared to enjoy the entertainment which had induced our Hay on the banks of the Camdinie Rivier. The Antelopes divided themfelves into large flocks of at leaft twenty or thirty thoufand in each flock. We purfued them from eight in the morning till noon, and killed and wounded feveral ; and the Hottentots who accompanied us, fhot feveral with their poifoned arrows, in the ufe of which they are expert. In the afternoon we continued our journey to a place, called the Kihiflcow, where was a Hottentot's Kraal. We were here vifited by four captains, or chiefs, who amufed us during the whole night.
I made an excurfion, on the twenty-firft, through part of the country in fearch of plants, but difcovered few in flower. I found a fpecies of Flint here, which is ufed by the Hottentots in making their harpoons, and efleemed by them as preferable to iron for this purpofe.
From this place we returned to the Bokke Veld, and arrived there after a journey of four days. We thence directed our courfe towards the Windhoek, where we arrived in a few
days more. In our way we had heavy fhowers of rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning; and I was nccefiarily detained at the Windhoek by the inclemency of the weather. I did not, however, remain inactive in this fituation, but added confiderably to my collection of plants, as I was fortunate enough to find feveral beautiful evergreens in flower. There is one of this tribe in particular which grows to the height of about twenty feet, the fruit of which the peafants ufe as an ingredient for poifoning the Hyenas. The procefs in preparing this pernicious vegetable is very fimple. They firft •dry the fruit, and then grind it into a powder, which they rub over a piece of flefh, and throw it into places which are infefted by thefe fierce animals. Upon eating the flefh, the Hyenas are fo immediately poifoned as generally to be found at a very little diftance from the place where it was thrown. This fruit is conveyed through the whole country for this purpofe.
The land in this part of the country is fruitful, and produces Corn and excellent Fruit; but the fouth-eaft winds, which blow from the mountains in the manner they do at the Cape, frequently proves as pernicious to the riling grain as they do at that place.
On the fixth of December I parted with my hofpitable friend, Niuve Houds, and was convoyed by his two fons through the Elephants River, which I expected to find im-paffable. The water was fo deep that it came up to our faddles.   The fame day we arrived at the Heer Lodfeiment.
I then left the waggon and directed my courfe through a fandy plain, to the houfe of Mrs. Low, fituate in the Long Valley.
On the eighth my waggon arrived, and the following day I was fupplied with a team of frefh oxen, and directed my courfe to the Berg Valley, where I ftayed two days, making excurfions through part of the country, in which I collected feveral plants. When we arrived at the Croife, we remained there all night, and on the fucceeding clay proceeded on our journey along the Ficquet Berg. At night we arrived at the houfe of Abert Flonna Cambt, where I continued two days, and made an excurfion to the mountain.
We then proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Rie Beck's Caftiel, at the houfe of Mr. Droyer, where I vifited the Roode Sand, or Land Van Waveren, which is fituate to the eaftward of Rie Beck's Caftiel. This is a pleafant and fruitful country, bounded by the large chain of mountains which are terminated on the eaft by Hottniqua Land, and on the weft by the chain of mountains which begin at Cape Falfe, they join to the northward, where the mountain is called the Winter Flocks Berg. This mountain is extremely high; and during a confiderable part of the year its fummit is covered with fnow. To the eaftward is a pleafant country, called the Goudinnie, where there is a hot bath. The Breed Rivier has its fource in this place, and to the eaftward is joined by the Hexen River, or Witches River. Along the weft fide of the chain of mountains, which begins at Cape Falfe, is fituate the Parel and Draken Styne, a well watered
FOURTH JOURNEY, 133 and fruitful country, which extends to the fouthward, and *779;
' t December.
joins Stillen Bofch. The only produce of this country is Wine, v—
In the courfe of this journey I have had frequent occahon to mention the Mimofas, w'hich abound particularly in the Great Nimiqua Land ; and I cannot clofe my Journal, without once more calling the reader's attention to a vegetable production, which muft ftrike every traveller with aftonifliment; not only from its uncommon fize, but from the different ufes for which Nature feems to have intended it.* It produces quantities of Gum, which is confidered by the natives as a peculiarly delicate fpecies of food ; the leaves and lower points of the branches feem to conftitute the principal aliment of the Camelopardalis; and, from the extent of its boughs, and fmoothnefs of the trunk, it affords a fufficient defence to a fpecies of gregarious bird-*" againfl the tribe of ferpents, and other reptiles, which would otherwife deftroy its eggs.
The method in which thefe birds ufually fabricate their nefts is highly curious. In that of which I have given a re~ prefentation in the annexed plate, there could be no lefs a number than from eight hundred to a thoufand refiding under the fame roof. I call it a roof, becaufe it perfectly refembles that of a thatched houfe, and the ridge forms an angle fo acute and fo fmooth, projecting over the entrance of the neft below, that it is impoflible for any reptile to approach them.
* See the plate. -J- See the Loxia plate.
T
»779* Their induflry feems almoft equal to that of the bee: —"—' throughout the day they appear to be bufily employed in carrying a fine fpecies of grafs, which is the principal material they employ for the purpofe of erecting this extraordinary work, as well as for additions and repairs. Though my fhort flay in the country was not fufficient to fatisfy me by ocular proof, that they added to their neft as they annually increafed in numbers, ftill from the many trees which I have feen born down with the weight, and others which I have obferved with their boughs completely covered over, it would appear that this really was the cafe; when the tree, which is the fupport of this aeriel city, is obliged to give way to the increafe of weight, it is obvious that they are no longer protected, and are under the neceflity of rebuilding in other trees.
One of thefe deferted ncfts I had the curiofity to break down, fo as to inform myfelf of the internal ftructure of it, and found it equally ingenious with that of the external. There are many entrances, eacli of which forms a regular ftreet, with nefts on both fides, at about two inches diftance from each other.
The grafs with which they build is called, the Boihman's grafs; and I believe the feed of it to be their principal food ; though on examining their nefts I found the wings and legs of different infects. From every appearance the neft, which I diffected, had been inhabited for many years; and fome parts of it were much more complete than others: this, therefore, I
conceive nearly to amount to a proof that the animals added to T.
* December.
it at different times, as they found neceffary, from the increafe v—v—j of the family, or rather I fliould fay, the nation or community.
Upon leaving Rie Beck's Caftiel, I directed my courfe through Swart Land, towards the Groena Kloaf, where 1 arrived the following day, and found the farmers engaged in gathering in their harvefl.
In the evening of the twenty-firft' of December, I arrived at the Cape, after a journey of fix months and five days..
[   *37 3
OBSERVATIONS
ON
THE THERMOMETER, WINDS, AND WE ATHER *
KEPT ON
THE   SECOND JOURNEY,
AT THE
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, from the twenty-second of may to the eighteenth of November 177$*
M A Y.
Month
pVlay
}ays. 22
n 1
•:Iour'c	fhertnom.	1 herm.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
	hi the fhade.	in the fun.		
8	57	59	N. W.	Cloudy, with flying (bowers.
12	61	61		Cloudy.
A %	60	61	Strong N. W.	Heavy (Lowers of rain.
8	59		Ditto.	Cloudy.
8~	60	60	N. W.	Cloudy, with flying fhowers.
1 2	62	64	Ditto.	Clear.
4 8	6i	63	Ditto.	Ditto.
	59		Ditto.	Cloudy, with heavy Glowers.
8	61	62	Strong N. W.	Cloudy.
12	64	67	Ditto.	Clear.
4	63	64		'ieavy rain.
8	60			Cloudy, with fmall fhowers.
Month.	Days.	flours	Thermom. in the (hade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
May	25	8 12 4 8	60 61 60 59	61 62 61	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy, with flying ihowers. Heavy rain. Ditto. Ditto.
	26	8	60	60	Strong N. W.	Cloudy.
		12	62	61	Ditto.	Heavy clouds to the N. W.
		4	60	61	Ditto.	Clear.
		8	59		Calm.	Cloudy.
	27	8 12	61 62	61 64	N. W. Small breeze at S.E.	Cloudv. Clear/
		4	61	62	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	<9I		Ditto.	Fine.
	28	8 12	57 61	57 62	North. N. W.	Cloudy. Ditto.
		4 8	59 54	64	Ditto. Strong N. W.	Heavy rain, with fqualls; at fix (p. m.) therm.55-Rain and hail.
	29	8 12	54 58	56 59	S. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto.
		4 8	5° 54	55	N. W.	Ditto, with rain; on the fummit of the hills fnow. Heavy rain; lightning in S. E._
	3°	8 12	45 5°	47 57	N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy; heavy morning dew. Cloudy j (bowers of fmall rain.
		4 8	5° 51	55	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto with rain ; the hiLls covered with fnow. Lightning in S. E.
	31	8 12	5° 51	5° 52	N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Small rain. Flying fhowers.
		4 8	49 49	51		
JUNE.
Month.	Days.	Hours i	1 jK-rmom. mi the {hade.	Trie'rib-in the fa m.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
June	i	3 i 2 4 8	5° 51 49 47	5° 54 5°	JN. W. Ditto. Strong N. W. N. W.	Cloudy. |ieavy rain, pit to. Cloudy.
	2	8 i 2 4 8	55 6o 59 59	•55* 67 64	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. Rain.
		8 12 4 8	5° 5^ 54 55	52 57 56	N« W. Ditto. Ditto. S. E.	Heavy rain. Ditto. Cloudy. Clear.
	4	8 i 2 4 8	53 54 52 51	53 57 5^	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Rain, Ditto. Cloudy, with fiiowery fmall rain. Ditto.
	5	8 i 2 4 8	54 62 61 55	55 67 65	S. E. Ditto. North. N. W.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Fine.
	6	8~ 12 4 8	53 60 55 52	53 6 + 60	N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	~7~	8 i 2 4 8	55 60 57 52	c;4, expofer1 67 64	N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	In the morning, dew. Clear. Cloudy. Ditto.
	~~8~	12 4 8	5° 56 56 52	57 59 58	N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Fine.
	9	8 i 2 4 8	54 60 59 50	56 65 61	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Strong dew.
Month	Days,	Hours	i her mom, in the fhade.	Therm, n tire fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
June	i 0	8 12 4 8	5° 61 53 51	51 68 61	N. W. S. E. Ditto. Ditto.	The ground wet with dew. Fine and clear. Ditto. Ditto, with dew.
	i i	8 12 4 8	5° 59 57 54	51 63 59	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear ; in the morning, dew. Ditto. Ditto. Fine.
	i 2	~~8~ 12 4 8	57 54 53 5°	51 55 55	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Clear. Ditto.
		8 12 4 8	51 54 52 52	5^ 59 56	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Clouds to the S. W.
		8 12 4 8	48 51 52 j	49 60 57	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy, with fmall rain. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
	~5	8 12 4 8	51 56 55 51	52 61 60	Strong N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. the hills covered with fnow.
	16	8 12 4 8	5° j 5° 48	5° 53 51	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto North. North.	Cloudy. Ditto. Clear. Ditto.
	l7	8 12 4 8	51 54 53 52	51 57 5°	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear -y in the morning, dew. Ditto. Ditto. Fine and clear.
	18	8 1 2 4 8	52 60 55 53	54 6j 58	South. Ditto. Ditto. S. E.	Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Ditto, with lightning in the Eaft.
	J9	8 12 ,1 "T 8	47 5° 49 43	48 57 5l	S. Jr.. Ditto. Ditto. South.	Cloudy. Rain. Ditto. Clear.__
Month,	Days.	Hours	Thcrmom. in the fhade.	Therm. n the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
June	20	12 4. 8	5° 56 ■ 54 5*	5° 61 60	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	21	8 12 4 g	47 5i 5° 48	5° 54 51	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Small rain. Cloudy.
		8 12 4 8	47 52 5° 49	48 60 58	N. W. North. Ditto. N. W.	Strong dew. Fine. Ditto. Ditto.
	23	8 12 4 8	50 51 49 45	5l 51 5°	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Dew. Cloudy. Ditto. Cloudy with fmall rain.
	24	8 12 4 8	45 56 54 50	46 60 60	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Strong dew. Fine. Clouds to the N. and W. Ditto.
	25	8 12 4 8	44 5° 5° 45	44 60 56	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	The ground white with fro ft. Cloudy. Clear. Ditto.
	26	8 12 4 8	43 5° 49 46	45 55 49	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto, Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	27	8 12 4 8	43 5° 45 43	44 5* 46	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Strong frolt. Squally and cloudy. Cloudy. Ditto.
	28	8 12 4 8	43 47 44 42	4 a, cxpoled 5° 45	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Heavy rain and hail. Rain. Several fiiowers of hail and rain. Cloudy.
	29	8 12 4 8	43 45 44 43	44 48 46	N. W. Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Month.	Days.	Flours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
June	3°	~8~"	46	46	N. W,	Clear.
		I 2	51	60	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	45	5°	Ditto.	Cloudy.
		8	1 43		Ditto.	Clear.
JULY.
Month.	Days.	Hour*	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm. in thefun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
July	i	8 12 4 8	45 49 47 46	47 64 5°	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto.
	2	8 12 4 8	5° 54 51 5°	57 60 56	North. Ditto. Ditto. Strong ditto.	Clear, with heavy dew. Cloudy. Small rain. Cloudy.
	3	8 12 4 8	5° 57 -54 5*	5* 61 60	N. VV. Ditto. South. S. W.	Clear. Pine. Clouds towards the fouthward. Heavy rain.
	4	8 12 4 8	43 5° 5° 47	44 57 54	Calm. Small breeze N.W. Ditto. Ditto.	Hard froil. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	5	8 12 4 8	43 5° 47 45	44 54 5i 5°	North. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Froft. Cloudy. Clear. Ditto.
	6	8 12 4 8	47 51 49 46	48 53 49	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Froil. Cloudv. Heavy rain. Ditto.
	~t	8 12 4 8	5° 55 5° 47	5° 57 5r	Strong N.W. Calm. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Heavy rain. Ditto.
	~8~"	8 12 4 8	49 5° 49 45	49 51 49	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto/ Ditto. Ditto.
	9	8 12 4 8	48 50 47 41	49 56 54	Welt. N. VV. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Month.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
July	10	8 12 4 8	45 6o 54-47	46 64 60	N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	The ground white with frail. Fine. Ditto, Ditto.
	I i	8 1 2 4 8	40 61 55 5°	41 66 61	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Hard froiL Clear. Ditto. Froft.
	12	8 12 4 8	55 63 59 55	60 67 63	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Fine. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
		8 12 4 8	45 59 56 47	47 61 60	North. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Fine. Ditto. Ditto. Clouds towards N.W. heavy rain till midnight.
	H	8 12 4 8	46 54 54 45	5° 62	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	l5	8 12 4 8	43 56 54 5°	42 61 60	North. Ditto. N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	16	8 12 4 8	45 57 53 46	47 60 56	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Cloudy. Cloudy to the N. W.
		I 2 4 8	5° 6! 57 5i	51 65 59	North. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Fine. Ditto. Cloudy. Fine.
	18	8 1 2 4 8	45 51 50 47	' 47 58 51	Strong N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
	l9	8 12 4 8	44 56 51 49	45 60 59	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
Montli.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. j in the fhade.	Therm, j in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Juiy	20	8 12 4 8	39 5° 49 47	47 60 57	S. E. N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	Hard froft. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	21	8 12 4 8	41 57 55 5°	45 61 60	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. North.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	22	8 12 4 8	46 57 51 49	47 60 58	North. N.W. Ditto. Ditto.	Hazy. Clear. Ditto. Clouds to the N. W.
	23	8 12 4 8	5° 60 52 51	57 67 60	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Clouds in the N. W. Ditto.
	24	8 12 4 8	49 5^ 55 5°	5° 64 60	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
	25	8 12 4 8	49 61 60 4 /	52 67 65	N. W. Ditto. North. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Thunder clouds in the N. W.
	26	8 12 4 8	45 55 52 47	5° 61 57	N.W. Ditto. Ditto. S. E.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Thunder, lightning, & hard rain.
	27	8 12 4 8	45 61 56 49	48 67 61	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. North.	Cloudy. Ditto. Clear. Ditto.
	28	8 12 4 8	48 59 55 45	49 61 60	Eaft. N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Hazy. Cloudy. Ditto.
	29	8 12 4 8	46 63 62 5°	47 67 63	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Hazy. Clear. Cloudy. Ditto.
Month. (Days.		Hourj	Thermom, in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Jui7	5°	8 I 2 4 8	49 5° 47 43	5° 60 54	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Heavy rain. Ditto.
	3'	8 12 4 8	4o 5* 5° 42	40 50, expofec' 50	North. ,N. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Squally j ihowers of hail and rain. Squally. Hail.
AUGUST.
Month.JDays.		Flour?	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Aug.	1	8 12 4 8	39 45 43 35	40 52 44	S. E. Ditto. Strong S. E. Ditto.	Clear; ice on the water quarter of an inch thick. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	2	8 12 4 8	3° 39 37 37	40 40 37	S. E. Strong S. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear, with froft. Cloudy. Ditto. Clear.
	3	~8~ 12 4 8	38 51 5° 43	40 60 60	Eaft. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear, with froft. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	4	8 12 4 8	40 59 56 45	44 62 60	Calm. N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	Hard froft. Clear. Ditto. White froft.
	5	8 12 4 8	39 57 55 43	4i 6z 58	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Froft. Clear. Cloudy. Clear.
	6	8 12 4 8	45 57 5° 47	45 63 51	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Ditto.
	7	8 12 4 8	3° 46 42 39	3° 46 42	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Rain. Cloudv, with fmall rain. Cloudy, Clear.
• .....1	~S~	8 12 4 8	3^ Co 59 50	39 68 63	Calm. N. W. Ditto. Ditto.	White froft. Fine. Ditto. Ditto.
' j	9 J	8 12 4 8	38 s6 48 50	~43 63 55	Calm. S. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear, with froft. Clear. Cloudy. Ditto.
Month.
Aug7
Days
10
I I
12
J3
14
l5
Hours
8
12
4
8
7
1 b
J 0
8
12
4
8
8
12
4
8
Thermom. in the (hade,
8
12
4 8
8
12
4
8
8
12
4 8
8
T O
4 8
8 12
4
8
8
12 4
8
12
4 8
39 67
66
ci
Therm.
in the fun
49
60 5r
49
63 62
54
44 5° 5o 43
39
57 56 48
48 5°
CO
46
40
57 49 43
43
54
5° 42
4i
60
5* 47
4.0
^3 62
CO
42 70
69
55
7° 68
52
71 69
44 51 5°
39 61
59
49 52
52
5° 64 60
5° 60
57
5° 68
60
42
70
6S
Wind'
Calm. S. R. Ditto. Ditto,
S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
North. N. W. Ditto. S. E.
S. E. Strong ditto. Calm, Ditto.
8. E. Ditto. Strong ditto. Ditto.
S. E.
Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Strong S. E. Calm. Ditto. North.
N. W.
Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Remarks on the weather.
Froft. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Fine. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Cloudy, with fmall rain.
Heavy rain.
Ditto.
Cloudy and fair.
Cloudy. Ditto. Litto. Clear.
Clouds in the N. W.
Clear.
Cloudy.
Hazy.
cine.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Froft.
Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto,
Hazy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
Month	Days	Hours'	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Aug.	20	8 12 4 8	43 67 63 53	43 72 70	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. S. E.	Hazy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	21	8 12 4 8	39 61 59 48	40 65 60	S. E. Ditto. North. N. W.	Hazy. Clouds to the N. W. Cloudy. Rain.
	22	8 12 4 8	40 5° 5° 43	40 5° 5°	N. W. Ditto.. Eaft.	Cloudy, with heavy ihowers. Cloudy. Rain. Clear.
	23	8 12 4 8	43 5^ 55 5°	5° 63 61	8. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	24	8 12 4 8	42 54 53 41	5° 64 60	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear, with dew. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	25	8 12 4 8	45 58 56 51	45 59 59	S. E. Ditto. N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Clear. Clouds in the N. W.
	26	8 12 4 8	43 54 53 41	47 60 57	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Cloudy.
	27	8 12 4 8	40 53 52 49	41 54 54	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Clear. Cloudy.
	28	8 12 4 8	45 57 55 49	45 61 59	South. S. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	29	8 12 4 8	45 60 57 5°	46 70 68	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Eaft.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
z
Month.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Aug.	3°	8	43	43	S. E.	Hazy.
		12	57 -	54, cxpofed	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	53	56	Ditto.	Clear.
		8	48		Ditto.	Ditto.
	31	8 12 4 8	47 60 59 54	5° 70 63	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
SEPTEMBER.
Month.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. j in the fhade.I	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Sept.	I	8 I 2 4 8	5° 65 63 53	58 71 65	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Hazy. Clear.
	2	8 I 2 4 8	52 60 60 55	60 72 69	Strong Eafterly. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Clouds towards the Eaft. Cloudy.
	3	8 12 4 8	51 52 51 5°	52 60 60	Strong N. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Cloudy. Clear. Ditto.
	4	8 12 4 8	48 52 51 5°	48 51, expofed 53	N. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Mifty. Cloudy. Clear. Ditto.
	5	8 I 2 4 8	51 70 68 52	60 8! 74	Weil. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Hazy. Ditto.
	6	8 12 4 8	5° 68 65 53	51 75 73	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Hazy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	7 ~8~ i	8 12 4 8	56 70 68 60	64 83 79	North. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
		8 12 4 8	60 85 87 70	71 97 89	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. S. E.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Clouds in the Eafl.
	!9	8 I 2 4 8	69 91 90 89	80 100 98	Calm. Ditto. Small breezes S. E.	Clear. Ditto. 'Ditto. *
' Here, on the banks of the Orange River, which i.. furrounded by waked mountains, and the wind generally S.E. blowing; over a dry fandy plain, which is about 800 raiies from the Cape of Good Hope, the thermometer, in the fun, WBS often at izo dcgii.es.
Month.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. n the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds. j	Remarks on the weather.
Sept.	10	8 12 4 8	70 93 84 76	~8o~~ 108 100	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto, Ditto. Ditto.
	J 1	8 12 4 8	70 93 89 73	80 106 100	S. E. Calm. Ditto. Small breeze S. E.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	12	8 12 4 8	69 90 90 80	9i 102 101	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
		8 12 4 8	71 92 89 70	84 , 108 100	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. Strong Weft.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Cloudy.
	14	8 12 4 8	80 76 60	70 97 90	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	15	8 12 4 8	59 70 70 64	61 89 87	N. W. Calm. Ditto. Small breeze at W.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Clear.
	16	8 12 4 8	54 69 65 54	59 71 71	Wert. Calm. Ditto. Weft.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	l7	12 4 8	52 70 65 60	53 73	N.W. Calm. Ditto. Weft.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
	18	8 12 4 8	53 69 65 57	64 81 76	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. N. W.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	l9	8 12 4 8	58 70 70 61	64 88 82	Small breeze at W. Calm. Ditto. N. W.	Clear-Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Month.	Days.	Hours	Thermom. in the (hade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Sept.	20	8	57	69	Calm.	Clear.
		12	81	98	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	76	82	Small breeze N.W.	Ditto.
		8	60		Ditto.	Ditto.
	21	8	60	80	Calm.	Clear.
		12	85	lOO	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4 8	8i 70	97	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	2 2	8 12	67 91	79 103	Calm. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto.
		4 ' 8	90 70	100	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	23	8	70	80	Calm.	Clear.
		12 4	95 9l	112 107	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
		S	71		Welt.	Ditto.
	24	8 12 4	77 95 &7	101 116 109	Calm. Ditto. Small breeze N.W.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
		8	69		Ditto.	Ditto.
	25	8 12 4 8	69 93 89 63	76 109 100	Calm. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	26	8	60	71 100 98	North.	Clouds in the N. W.
		12 4 8	89 87 <9		Calm. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	27	8 12 4	69 93 81	79 109 100	Calm. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
		8	63		Ditto.	Ditto.
	28	8	65	79	Calm.	Clear.
		12	89	100	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4 8	87 60	98	S. W. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	29	8 12	5° 69	63 81	Calm. Ditto.	White froft. Clear.
		4 8	57 53	61	N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear.
A a
Month.	Days.	Hour?	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Sept.	3°	8	52	60	N. W.	Clear.
		12	70		Ditto,	Ditto,
		4	68	76	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	60		Ditto.	Ditto.
OCTOBER.
Month.foays.		Hours	Thermom. in the (hade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
	i	8	57	6l	Calm.	Clear.
		I 2 4 8	7° 7° 6i	87 86	Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	2	8	6o	71	N. VV.	Clear.
		I 2	72	80	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	70	80	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	57		Ditto.	Ditto.
	d	~8~	59	61	Calm.	Clouds in the S. E.
		I 2	70	80	Ditto.	Clear.
		4 8	68 57	79	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	4	8 12 4	60 8r 79	70 97 33	Calm. Ditto. Ditto.	Thunder clouds in the Eaft. Ditto. Clear.
		8	60		S. E.	Ditto.
	5	8 I 2	54 61	61 65	Weft. Ditto.	Cloudy, Ditto.
		4 8	60 52	64	Ditto. N. W.	Ditto. Clear.
	6	8 I 2	55 61	55-62	Calm. Ditto.	Cloudy. Thunder to the Eaftward.
		4	61	61	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	57		Ditto.	Cloudy.
	7	8 1 2	59 70 65	59 80	N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear.
		4		70	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	57		Ditto.	Ditto.
	~8~	_8~ I 2	59 65	60 69	N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto.
		4 8	60	61	Ditto.	Ditto, with fmall rain.
			____55_		Ditto.	Ditto.
	9	8 I 2	57 60	57 60	N. VV. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto.
		4 8	60 54	60	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto ; at fix in the evening heavy rain. Ditto.
Vlonth	Days.	Hours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Oct.	10	8 12 4 8	57 6o 57 54	56 60 SB	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	1 I	8 1 2 4 8	56 67 65 5°	58 71 70	S. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	'Clouds to the Weitward. Clear. Ditto. Cloudy.
	12	8 12 4 8	54 71 69 57	54 71 69	Welt. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto ; with feveral loud claps of thunder. Clear.
		8 12 4 8	57 68 65 53	61 74 68	N. W. Ditto. North. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Cloudy. Thunder.
	H	8 12 4 8	53 ' 7* 64 59	59 89 70	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear 3 in the night a ftrong dew. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	l5	8 I 2 4 8	59 68 68 57	<>7 75 69	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. s. w.	Clear. Ditto. Cloudy. Clear.
	16	8 12 4 8	57 61 60 53	57 70 69	Weft. Ditto. ~ Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	l7	8 I 2 4 8	6i 73 69 60	68 80 76	Weft Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Heavy clouds of mift upon the hilis. Clear. Ditto. Ditto.
	id	8 1 2 4 8	62 74 70 61	62 76 76	Weft. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Small rain. Hazy. Clear. Clouds to the Weftward.
	J9	8 12 4 8	69 78 78 67	~6~T 88 35	5. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto. 'Ditto.
Month	Days.	Hours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, j n the fan.]	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Oct.	20	"IT 12 4 8	65 76 73 67	~67~ 75 74	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Cloudy, with fmall rain. Hazy. Clear.
	21	8	67	71	N. W.	Clear.
		12	80	90	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	79	88	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	67		Ditto.	Ditto.
	22	8 12	57 69	57 80	N. VV. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear.
		4	68	74	Ditto.	Ditto.
		8	57		Ditto.	Ditto.
	23.	8 12 4 8	57 70 68 54	56 80 71	N.W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Ditto -y at five, (p. m.) rain. Rain. «
	24	8 12	5° 5°	5° 4.8, exriofcd	N.W. Ditto.	Heavy rain ; feveral fhovvers of fleet and fnow. Ditto.
		4 8	47 43	46	North. Ditto.	Ditto. Squally.
	25	8	52	53 6r	8. E.	White froft.
		12	58		Ditto.	Clear.
		4 8	56 50	60	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	26	8 12	57 68	61 70	Eaft. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto.
		4 8	67 59	68	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	27	8 12 4	54 6.3 62	57 68 66	N. E. Ditto. Ditto.	Heavy dew. Clear. Ditto.
		8	53		Ditto.	Ditto.
	28	8 12	57 70	58 80	N. E. Eaft.	Thunder. Clear.
		4 8	70 60	' 73	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	29	8 12 4 8	5« 69 67 57	63 78 70	Eaft. S. E, Ditto. Ditto.	Fine. Ditto. Ditto. Cloudv.
13 b
158	OBSERVATIONS ON THE				THERMOMETER, WINDS, AND WE AT HER,	
Month.	Days.	Hours	J hcrmom. n the fhade.	Tnerm. in the fun	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Oil.	3°	8 12 4 8	6o 78 76 62	67 82 82	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	3'	8 12 4 8	57 72 69 59	^3 82 73	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto, Ditto, Ditto.
NOVEMBER.
Month.'Days.		Hours	Thermom. in the fhade.	Therm, in the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Nov.	I	8 12 4 8	5« 6l 59 57	57 70 60	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Clear.
	2	8 12 4 8	57 60 53 5S	60 68 60	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	3	8 12 4 8	56 60 5B 56	59 70 63	b. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	4	8 12 4 8	58 60 56 55	60 70 58	S. E. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Cloudy. Ditto, with fmall rain.
	5	8 12 4 8	57 60 58 54	60 70 63	South. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	6	8 12 4 8	59 67 ^3 54	68 71 69	South. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Cloudy. Clear.
	7	8 12 4 8	5(> 63 63 59	63 73 69	S. VV. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	~8~'	~~8~ 12 4 8	57 69 65 54	60 73 70	S. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	~9~	8 12 A 8	56 63 60 57	61 70 67	S. W. Welt. Ditto. Ditto.	Clear, Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
Month.	3ays.	-lours i	1 her mom. n the made, i	Therm, n the fun.	Winds.	Remarks on the weather.
Nov.	10	8 12 4 8	67 64 55	"187 73 69	S. W. ( Ditto. < Ditto. Ditto. ]	Jlouciy. L^lear. Ditto. Ditto.
	I 1	8	C2	;2	N. VV. 1	Cloudy.
		1 2	6l	61	Ditto.	Ditto.
		4	6l	^3	Ditto.	Clear.
		8	57		Ditto.	Ditto.
	12	8	60	7° 79 68	N. W.	Clear.
		I 2 4 8	67 64 57		Ditto. North. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	*3	8 12	63 70	7i 81	Calm. Ditto.	Clear. Ditto.
		4 8	67 60	74	N.W. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	H	8 12 4 8	65 75 72 67	$5 75 71	N. W. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.	Cloudy. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto.
	*5	8 1 2	67 9r	67 99	N. W. Ditto.	Thunder and cloudy. Clear, with thunder to the N.
		4 8	89 70	93	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	16	8 I 2	57 62	57 ^g, expofec	N. W. Ditto.	Cloudy, with fmall rain. Ditto.'
		4 8	59 53	59	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
	J7	8" 1 2	58 62	58 68	Welt. Ditto.	Cloudy and fair. Clear.
		4 8	57 5°	57	N. W. s. w.	Heavy rain. Clouds to the Weftward.
	18	8 1 2	52 53	54 60	N. W. Ditto.	In the morning, dew. Clear.
		4 8	5i 5°	57	Ditto. Ditto.	Ditto. Ditto.
APPENDIX.
ANIMAL POISONS.
AS the fubject. of poifons is one of the moft interesting branches of natural hiftory, I am induced to add to the preceding pages a lew facts which came under my own obfer-vation while I refided in Africa and the Eaft Indies, where it is well known that both the animal and vegetable kingdoms abound with a variety of productions unfriendly to the human frame.
The vegetable poifons of Africa have been already noticed; but I have been lefs copious in the remarks on the poifonous fnakes of that country. To thefe, therefore, I fliall firft and principally call the attention of the reader ; and being but little converfant in zoology, I fhall, in my defcription, retain the names by which they are diftinguifhed in their native regions.
The Horned Snake, is the moft poifonous of thefe reptiles: it is of a greyifh colour, and about eighteen inches long : its head, which is very flat, is large in proportion to the fize of the body, with fmall fcales, which the inhabitants call horns^ riling over its eyes.
This ferpent, fo truly formidable from the mortal nature of its bite, particularly abounds in the country of the Bofhmen and Nimiqua Hottentots, who ufe its poifon, in preference to that of all others, for poifoning their arrows. The Bofhmen, indeed, who have no cattle of their own, and depend entirely on their bows for fubflftence, feem to have been furnifhed by Nature with this poifon as their only defence againft their numerous enemies. Impelled by hunger, they often quit the mountains and plunder the Dutch peafants of their cattle ; and were it not for thefe poifonous weapons they would be unable to with-Hand or efcape from the parties which in thefe cafes are fent againft them ; but thus armed, feveral of the Dutch have been killed, and many have barely efcaped with life from their wounds.
The ufual mode of preparing this poifon, is by bruiiing the whole fnake till it becomes of the confiftence of a gum: a fmall quantity of this fubftance is then tied on the point of the arrow with fmall finews : two or more barbs are formed in the arrow to prevent its quitting the flefh.
This poifon is fometimes mixed with others, to form a preparation called Rot Poifon, which, as I was informed by a pea-fant of the country, produces mortification without much pain. The wife of a Dutch peafant, travelling to the Cape, was attacked in the night by a party of Bofhmen, who came to Ileal her cattle; fhe received a wound from an arrow on her fhoulder ; and fo rapid was the effecfl of the poifon, that before fhe
reached the Cape, her breafts came off, and a cure was impoffi-ble. This and many other inftances have been related to me by the country people. I (hall not attempt to vouch for the truth of them ; but they are generally believed at the Cape. Many Hottentots die of the bite of poifonous ferpents; but I have feen feveral who had recovered ; though, from what I could learn, they had no mode of cure but the actual cautery.
The Koufe Band, or Garter Snake, is another of the poifonous reptiles of that country : it is particularly dangerous to travellers, as it refembles the foil fo much in colour, that it is not readily perceived. The Koufe Band is fmall, and feldom exceeds eighteen inches in length. I imagine it to be the Covra Manilla of the Eaft Indies. This tribe is faid to occafion almoft inftant death. But as all fnakes lofe a confiderable portion of their poifonous quality by repeating their bite, there may be times when the poiion is not fo ftrong, or fo mortal. I had an opportunity of feeing a farmer at the hot baths near the Cape, who had been bitten by a Koufe Band in the foot. For fome time after the circumftance happened, he found great benefit from bathing the wounded part with cold water, mixed with a large quantity of fait. When I faw him he had been lame for two years. Whenever he took much exercife it occafioned a fwelling in the leg, to which the warm bath afforded a temporary relief.
The Yellow Snake, which differs only in colour from the Covra Capella, or Hooded Snake of India, is frequently found
here. Though extremely poifonous, their fize and bright yellow colour renders it eafy to avoid them. They are from four to eight feet in length. The Yellow Snake is moftly found in rat-holes. After eating thefe animals, which form the chief part of its food, it takes poffefiion of their holes : this renders it dangerous for travellers to lie down in any place where there are traces of this deftrudive reptile.
The Hottentots procure the poifon of this fnake by difTecring the bag from its mouth, and dipping finews, which they afterwards tie on the points of their arrows, in the liquid it contains.
The PufF Adder, which has its name from blowing itfelf up to near a foot in circumference, is of a greyifh colour, and about three feet and a half in length : it is confiderably thicker than any I ever faw in that country : its head is large and flat; the poifon-teeth about an inch long, and hooked. The PufF Adder is extremely dangerous to cattle. In one of my excursions in the country, a horfe of mine was bit by one of them in the mouth, while grazing, and furvived the wound but two days.
The Spring Adder is a very dangerous, but uncommon fnake ; it is jet black, with white fpots, from three to four feet long, and proportionably thick. When Colonel Gordon (now Commander in chief at the Cape) was in that country, in the year feventeen hundred and feventy-five, he mentioned to me a circumftance of his having met two Have boys
chafed by a Spring Adder, which feemed to be gaining ground upon them, when he fhot it through the middle.
The Night Snake, which is more beautiful than any of the others, is from eighteen to twenty inches long, and very thin : it is belted with black, red, and yellow ; and when near, at night, has the appearance of fire. The Flottentots call it Killmen.
Thefe fix fpecies of ferpents, about the Cape of Good Hope, I had the opportunity of feeing ; and brought home fpecimens of moft of them, prefervcd in fpirits, for further infpection. I however regret much that as my chief object was the collection of plants, I had it not in my power to remain long enough in any one place to make fuch experiments on their feveral poifons as might have enabled me to have given a clear account of their effects from my own ob-fervation. There are, I have no doubt, many other fnakes in that country with which we are as yet unacquainted. One, which is called the Spoog Slang, or Spitting Snake, has been mentioned to me by the inhabitants of the country, who fay it will throw its poifon to the diftance of feveral yards; and that people have been blinded by them; but this never came under my own infpe&ion.
The Black, or Rock Scorpion, is nearly as venomous as any
•of the ferpent tribe.   A farmer who refided at a place, called
the Farle, near the Cape, was ftung by one in the foot, during
my flay in the country, and died in a few hours.
D d
Doctor Syde, one of the Cape phyficians, informed me that feveral people had been brought to him flung by fcorpions, and that he found oil to be the beft antidote he ever tried. The natives of India hold the part wounded as near to a fire as pof-fible, for a considerable time, which, they fay, produces a perfect cure.
I fliall here add a few obfervations which occurred to me while ferving in the fouthern army in the Eaft Indies, refpecting fome of our foldiers who were bitten by fnakes in that campaign.
The fouthern countries of Indoftan abound with the fmall fnake, called the Covra Manilla, which is well known to be very poifonous. The Bramins tell us, that they can adminifter complete relief in the moft defperate cafes; but their mode of practice has hitherto been kept a fecret from Europeans. Col-lonel Fullarton, however, procured a fmall box of their pills from the reverend Mr. Swartz, a miflionary at Tanjore ; and at the fiege of Carrore we had an opportunity of proving the effects of them. One of our feapoys was bitten, and fo ill that we defpaired of his life. The colonel gave him one of the pills, which feemed to act as a very ftrong opiate for fome time, and threw him into a delirium; in two days, however, the man was perfectly recovered.
We had alfo a fecond proof of their utility, though the man did not appear to be fo ill as on the former occafion.   I was
witnefs to a third cafe, where we could not procure thefe pills. A fervant of Lieutenant Smith, in the fame regiment with myfelf, was bitten. The lieutenant gave him nothing but brandy and hot Madeira wine, and kept him in a ftate of intoxication for twenty-four hours; the next day the pain was gone, but the man continued indifpofed for fome time.
A foldier in the feventy-eighth regiment, after a wound from a ferpent, was fo ill that his whole body was difcoloured, and he was confidered as incurable by all the furgeons in the army. In this cafe we could not have recourfe to the Bramin's pills ; and it was thought that nothing but the ftrength of his confti-tution could have faved him.
Another circumftance, refpecting the bite of fnakes, which happened near Bengal, will not, I flatter myfelf, be deemed unworthy of attention : when a brigade was cantoned, the houfes had not been inhabited for fome time before. Soon after they went in, there were fome men found dead in the morning ; for which fad they were totally unable to account. The diiafter, however, was foon difcovered to proceed from the bite of fnakes. On fearching, they found vaft numbers of thefe animals in the holes of the mud-walls; the greateft part of which they killed. They were then advifed to lay a quantity of onions and garlick about their rooms, in the iniide ; and after that, no further trace of them were perceived.
It is much to be wifhed that any certain remedy for the bite
APPEND! X.
of thofe poifonous animals could be difcovered, and fuch as might be carried in the traveller's pocket, when proceeding on a long journey. Botanifts, or naturalifts, are more expofed than any other clafs of men, as they are conftantly wandering in the fields among fhrubs and grafs, where they cannot difcover thofe reptiles fo readily as thofe who confine themfelves to beaten paths. It is feldom they can carry a bed with them ; and when ly'mg on the ground they are in danger of turning themfelves on thofe venomous creatures, who often creep near the human body for the fake of warmth. It is not uncommon for them t© get into beds, as I have myfelf obferved in the Eaft Indies.
VEGETABLE POISONS.
f~ | THOUGH there are few countries in the world which I abound more with deleterious vegetables than the country adjacent to the Cape of Good Hope, yet the principal danger, to the traveller, refults from the animated part of the creation ; he can always avoid the one, when he cannot apprehend the other. I am only acquainted with four of the former kind, which are commonly employed as inftruments of destruction.
The firft is a large bulbous plant, Amaryllis Difticha, which is called Mad Poifon, from the effects ufually produced on the animals which are wounded by the weapons impregnated with it. The natives prepare this poifon in the i olio wing manner : They take the bulbs, about the time when they are putting out their leaves, and cutting them tranfverily, extract a thick fluid, which is kept in the fun till it becomes quite of the coniiftence of gum. It is then put up for ufe; and the method of laying it on their arrows has been already defcribed.
The hunters employ this fpecies of poifon chiefly for the purpofe of killing fuch animals as are intended for food, fuch as antelopes and other fmall quadrupeds. Alter theyr are wounded, they can, and do in general, run for feveral miles; and it frc-
E e
APPENDI X.
#1
quently happens that they are not found till the next day, notwithstanding the poifonous fubftance having penetrated the mufcular parts.
When the leaves of this plant are young, the cattle are very fond of them, though they are inftant death ; the farmers therefore are very cautious not to fuffer them to enter into the trads which are fufpected of producing this plant.
The fecond is a fpecies of Euphorbia, which is found in that part of the country which is inhabited by Bofhmen, and in the Great Nimiqua Land, The gum of this is alfo ufed for arrows; but the plant is more commonly ufed for poifoning the water where the animals refort to drink ; and a Stranger who travels in that country, mufl be very careful in examining the fpring before he drinks.
This plant grows from about fifteen to twenty feet in height, fending out many branches full of Strong fpines. The natives cut off as many of the branches as they think necefiary for the destruction of the animals they intend to poifon. They generally conduct the water a few yards from the fpring into a pit made for the purpofe ; after which they put in the Euphorbia, and cover the fpring, fo that the creatures have no choice: and in that country water is very fcarce; fometimes it is twenty miles from one fpring of water to another.
The only animal I ever faw poifoned by this means, was a
Zebra; it had fcarcely proceeded half a mile from the water before it dropped ; and I was affured by the natives, that none efcaped which drank of fuch water, though they declared the flefh was not injured by the poifon.
The third vegetable poifon proceeds from a fpecies of Rhus, which is only found near the Great River, or Orange River; and is faid to be very dangerous. When this poifon is extracting, the operators cover their eyes, as the leaft drop touching that organ would certainly deprive them of fight. It is fometimes ufed for arrows.
The fourth is the only poifon really ufeful to the European inhabitants ; it is a fmall fhrubby plant, producing a nut, called by the Dutch, Woolf Gift, or Wolf Poifon, which they ufe for poiioning the Hyenas.
The method of preparing this, is by taking the nuts and roafting them as they do coffee, after which they pulverize them : they afterwards take fome pieces of meat, or a dead dog, which they ftuff full of the powder, and throw them into the fields. The voracious Hyenas meeting with any thing of this kind, foon devour it, and in general are found dead the following day,
THE END,
[  i J
I   N  D   E X.
ADDER, puff, defcribed, page 104
■- fpring ib.
Africa, inducements to the philofopher to explore 3 ——— water, brackifh, very common in   46, 52
55, 58, 73> 106 65, 107
58
511 169
130 22
Scarce in many parts of
Aloe Dichotoma ferving as a houfe Amaryllis Diflicha, a poifon Antelopes go in very numerous herds Ants, white
B.
Bafkets made to hold water by the Caffres gi Baths, hot 12, 26, 42
Bays near Cape Falfe 8 Birds, curious neft of a gregarious fpecies of 133 Bokke Veld Berg extremely fteep 53 Bonte Bock defcribed 10 note, 12
Bofhiefmen, account of 29 note
--bows and arrows of
■ ■ - eat fnakes, fpiders, &c.
--'honefty of
———-       how caught
Bread made of a fpecies of palm ■--       unknown at Tfimeko
30 note
31 note
32 note 31 note
87, 92 27 9 note
Buffaloes, defcription of
■-hide of, makes excellent thongs for oxen
88
«— plenty near Cam tours Rivier 80
C.
Caffraria hitherto unknown to Europeans, page )*} ——— kingdom of difputed, 92 Caffres, account of 90 Camelopardalis defcribed 126 Camphor trees in Hottentot Holland 7 Capra Dorcas, dimenfions of one 82 Cattle, difeafe caufmg the hoofs of, to drop off 96
--taught to obey a whiffle 94
Cautery employed by the Hottentots againft bites of poifonous reptiles 163 Chamois defcribed 53 note
Channa, a fpecies of Mczembryanthemum, ufed
for chewing and fmoking Channa Land, account of Chonacquas, a tribe of Hottentots, account of Circumcifion in ufe amongft the Caffres Conftantia, account of Corn killed by the froft Covra Manilla, a poifonous fnake
D.
Dogs highly valued by the Caffres ,-wild
Dutch boors in Africa indolent
*3 2+ 8S
93 5
7* 166
93 84
E.
Ebony growing near Orange River F f
113
I N P
Elephant's Foot, a plant, defcribed, page 72
Elephants, herd of 89
.-             paths made through woods by 88
Elk, or Eland, defcribed 10 note
Euphorbia, fpecies of, poifonous 62, 170
Hottentots, mufic and dances of, page 57
-—— peculiar tribes of 85, 115
- perhaps lefs able to bear fatigue than
Europeans %j^t Hottniqua Land, account of 35 Houfe, Aloe Dichotoma fubftituted for 58
F.		Hyenas, how poifoned by the peafants 1	3r»	'7*
Finger, little, firft joint of, cut off by Hottentots to				
cure fome difeafe	117	I.		
Fifties, prodigious number of, driven into Table		Iron ore, cubic		54
Bay	5	K.		
Food, various kinds of     22, 31	note, 63, 72, 92,	Karo, account of		44
	Il6, 120, 125	- Great, a defart country		45
G,		Klow ficknefs		96
Gems Bock defcribed	53 note	Koedoes defcribed		27
German turned Hottentot	28	L.		
Goat, fpotted, defcribed	10 note	Larvae of infects eaten by Bofhiefmen	31 note	
Good Hope extremely fertile	33	Life, long, rare in the fouth of Africa		4i
Grafs, feed of a fpecies of, eaten by the Bofhiefmen		Liquor, intoxicating, made by the Caffres		92
	63	Lion preying on dead animals	64,	118
Gums eaten as food by Hottentots    59, 125, 133		Lionefs, dimcnfions of one		33
■                          — monkeys	and birds 124	Locufts dried and eaten by Bofhiefmen Loxia, curious nefts of, defcribed		63 *33
H.
Hailftorm, violent 79 Hartebeeft, dimenfions of one 82 Hemp-leaves preferred to Tobacco by the Hottentots 56 Hippopotamus, cries of, frightful 60
--holes made in rivers by 25
--how caught 64
Horns of cattle turned into various ftiapes 94 Horfes annually attacked by a particular difeafe at Hantum 51 Hofpitality of the boors 6, 48 Hottentot Holland, account of 7 --- remarks on the land to the Eaft
M.
Mimofa, various ufes of Meteorological journal,
Nimiqua Land Small
N.
O.
124> 133 137—160
56
of
Hottentots defcribed
■- eat old fhoes
■----(linking fifh
■ 1 habitations of
11
13 note 117, i?.o 116 19 note
Oil beft antidote for fting of fcorpion 166 Orange River j 12
Oftrich eggs excellent food fl>. ,--neft found containing thirty-four ib,
P.
Palm, bread made of the pith of a fpecies of 87,
Piper Cordifolia common in the woods 21, 35 Plant ufed to procure fire by friction 1 i 8
Poifoned arrow, effects of a wound from 48 ■------       1 - how made 62, 162, 164
INDEX.
ill
Poifons, animal, page 161
-       remedies againft j 63, 166
—■ vegetable 169 Punch made of Guinea Corn by the Caffres 92
Quacha defcribed 17 note
R.
Remedy, curious 117
Rhinoceros, flefh of, good eating when young 95 Rhus, a fpecies of, ftrong acrid poifon 171 Rock, conical, five hundred feet high 58
S.
Salt found on the weftern coaft of Africa 106
--lake, curious 83
Sand Down, account of 6
Scorpion, black or rock 165
Sheep, peculiar kind of 125
■         remarkable difeafe of 48
Shoes, curious pair of, defcribed 18 note
Smilax, root of a fpecies of, eaten as food 72
Snake, garter, page 163
■ - ■»«. horned 120, 161
--night 165
——— onions and garlick ufeful to drive away 167
——— fpitting 1^5
yellow 163
Spiders eaten by Bofhiefmen 31 note
Stillen Bofch mountains 39
T
Termites good food                    ' 22 W.
Water fcarce in many parts of Africa, 65, 107 1        fometimes poifoned by the Africans 62, 170
Wolf poifon 171 Z.
Zebra defcribed 17 note
--flefh of, good food 119
Zout Pan, a curious fait-lake 82
Zwellendam, account of 20.
ERRATA.
Page 6, Ime    for Extim, readExtin.
20, line    for Swillenden, read Swellendam.   For Lend, read
Land.
21, line 3, for Helenedas, read Helianthus. 3y, line 16, for Amyrilas, read Amaryllis. 46, line 5, for Porde, read Parde.
51, line 6, for Hentum, read Hantum.
52, line 11, for torn, read torn.
52, line 25, for defcended, aya//afcended,
61, line 2St for Salices, read Salix.
81, line \%for fragrens, read fragrans.
94, line 9, for Bofhman's, read Boatfwain's, 100, line 23, for Gueft", read Griefr. 108, line 2$, for Chamois, read Gems.
130, line 8<ifor Tuburonim, rWTuberofum.
131, line 21, for proves, read prove.
132, line 10, for Abert Honna Cambt, read Albert Hanna Camp, 164, line 14, for after any, add other.
DireBions for placing the Plates.
Amaryllis Dlfticha,    , ,	to face page 5r.
Aloe Dichotoma,      , ♦	.     . .56.
Flowers of ditto,	to follow.
	
Trunk of ditto,    .     . ,	,     .   to follow.
	
	
Euphorbia, ....	.  .   . 62.
Euphorbia, flem and flower,	to follow.
Geranium, ....	67.
Bofhmens habitations, .	*    *    . iu
Hottentots, .	. 115-
Geranium Spitiofum,	.116.
Pentandria Monogynia,	124.
Camelopardalis,     .     . .	. 125.
Mimofa, ....	126.
Loxia, ....	to follow.