AND FRENCH FLANDERS; AND FRO M SPA to DUSSELDGRFF, v P ■„:eRHINE to FRANKFORT; AND T II R O TJ H. MANHEIM, STRASBURG, NANCY and RHEIMS, T O St. OMER, and CALAIS. LONDON: Sold by RICHARDSON and URQUHART tRoyol Exchange. ; ALMON , Piccadilly, BYFIELD , Charing-Crofs; W1LKIE, St. Paul's Church-yard i BINGLEY, Ludgate-Jhcct; BROWN, Ej}kx~ Jtrect , Strand; GRANT, Catherine - (Ircct TAYLOR , HollKum ; EVANS , Nc . 50 Strand;DAYl$, Sackvillejhcct; and HOOKH AM Jlan'jvu-Jlrcct, Ilanovcr-fauarc. l777> A TOUR to SPA, &c. "TT" N going to Spa, there arc feveral methods 1 to be purfued , cither to go from the river . M. in an Oy?c« — you may alio hire a veffel at any hour.—The Ship at Dover , I would particularly recommend, on account o£ the good and. reafonable accommodations.—Unlefs you arc fond ofthc fen , would advife you to go by way of Calais, as the paifage is generally performed in four or five hours ; and, the way by Oftend, is feldom lefs than twelve or fourteen; — and the pafiage from the river being thirty-fix or forty - eight hours. Within two or three leagues from Calais, you will plainly fee the town, and country , to the tight; which is hilly , and feems well cultivated. — The ftecplcs, fortifications , and town look well:—On each Gde the mouth of the harbour , which is three quarters of a mile long, are watch-houfes where guards are conflantly kept; —and on one is a light for ships coming into A a the ( 4') the harbour. — The country to the left is very flat, and barren ; — the harbour lone; and commodious , having a good pier, and walk on the left iide towards the town : At CALAIS, the entry to which is a large well-built gate , "with a draw-bridge; — the quay is broad and convenient. — Would ad vile you to go to the Silver Lyon , which is a very reafonabc good Inn.— The landlord P. Guillardcau , very attentive , and obliging; and will furnish you with every thing necefjary for your journey. Having fettled your plan ; — it is then worth your while to take a walk round the town ; — which is fmall; — eight ftrects lead to the market place , which is fpacious: — And where the parade is kept, —the barracks for foldicrs are large ,airy, and commodious;— feveral churches ; but nothing remarkable within them.— In Rue, da Soldi, there isan infeription on a ftone againft a houfe , the words of which are, God J'ave the King ; fnppofc-d to have been written by ths English , when the town was in their pofleffion. A very plcafant walk on the ramparts, from one part of which a fine view of the fea , and English coaftjfrom the other parts you fee Gra-. vding. (5) vellng , and the country to Dunkirk; and alfo, the country to St. Omer's , and to Boulogne,— The canal which goes to St. O/ner's , Dunkirk , &c. is ufeful, but very narrow. Your plan: being to go to Spa., it will be he* eeflary to fix which route you shall take. The going with , or without your carriage, will make a great difference , — as there ara different ways: — For example , — By Dunkirk, ind the canals, to Brujfds; or by St. Outer's , and Lijle , to Brujfels. — If a male party , I would advife the going without a carriage; as there are many inconveniencies attending the having one. — In which cafe, you will either hire* a carriage, and horfes, to go to Dunkirk only; or you will go in the Coach, which is very commodious, and goes daily; — they dine at Graveling; — which is but an indifferent town , — but well fortified; — a pretty fpire to a tolerable built Church; — the fea on your left audi hills to the right. — The country looks more chearful than on the road before, or after; — fee Dunkirk a long time before you get there ; a large appearance , — the fuburbs extenfive ; —■ in which there is a privileged place for debtors, and criminals. A 3 DUNKIRCK DUNKIRK. The town is large; and feveral fpaciotis openings , particularly the Market-place ; — the barracks and magazines are a mile round. — The quays arc broad and convenient ; — and the ships of different nations ( except the Englhh , who lay where they pleafc ) have their allotted ftations in the harbour , which is a very good one ; and , being a free port, generally very full; a good walk on the pier — to te fea.— The bafons, and flukes , cut a melancholly appearance, being in a manner deftroyed , and the cunette filled up; there is an idea that the ftoncs &c. are fo marked, that they might cafily be replaced ; but that I doubt very much , unlefs the pcrfons who removed , were to replace them ;— beSdes., I have been informed ,that many of the materials have been fold to the neighbourhood for various ufes. The Cathedral is a large pile of building. There arc fome tolerable pictures; — particularly of St. George the Martyr, by Pour bus, after Rubens. From Dunkirk , you go by water to Fumes , Newport , and Bruges.—Furnes is a very poor piacc;—Newport cuts a better afpect at the end of the canal,—The country flat, and the canals narrow ( 7 ) narrow till you get to Plajfen , where you enter the broad canal, which leads from Oft end to Bruges.—It may be worth your while to take a peep at Oftend, which is not far from -Plajfen; and which , from the number of faw-rnills , churches , and being almoft furrounded by the fea, has a romantic appearance. 0 ST EN IX The market place is large, and eight tolerabls ftreets lead to it; — The great Church is a pretty good building: — At the Altar is a fine picture of the Draught of Fishes , by Rubens; — the cxpreffion of the three Old Faces, and of a Per-fon leaning over the fide of the boat, very fine; —the Fishes are very natural; — - a pretty good picture of a Rellgieufe taking a perfon out of the Sea. There are fome prepofterous figures about our Saviour — fome of them are curiouily dreffed. I , From Oftend , you go in a large boat up a noble canal to Bruges , where veffels of any burthen go ; —■ the approach to it is very agrea-blc. — As there are feveral villas on each fide; — and the town and churches look well at the boundary. BRUGES. C 2 ) BRUGES, The town of Bruges is large, — but no rs* markable buildings; — it being a place of great trade , and a key to the German traders for linen , Woollen , laces , &c. — The town-houfe has a very handfome front; — there are many large halls and warehoufes worth looking into, to fee the method, regularity , &c —-The jefuits' Church, a pretty good building ; —at the Altar is a fine picture , after Rubens; — the Cathedral is the ol-deft building there ; — Charles V. called the Bon , WES killed in the gallery there , whilft th< prayers. At the Cliurch of St. Salvador , many pictures by ^Ibadura; — at the Altar, the Afcenlion , after' Fandy.k ; —- in a itorm-piece there is great merit; — and a fine Landfcape , "by Brughle's father; —many perfons go to Mr. Duhamd's , to fee a large pictare, — the continence of Sci~ pio , faid to be painted by Rubens , Fandyck , and T^anthidden ; — but, as it is but indifferent; cannot advife you to lofe the time ; — the Faces are tolerable , but Drapery horrid. From Bruges to Ghent , you go in a very elegant barge , where you dine; it is under the direction , and at the expence of the Magiitrates? — the c 9 y --- the town , on leaving it , loocks well. —-The view on each fide of the canal is agrea-ble for three miles ; — and then very dull. — The land being above you till near Ghent, when the profpect. improves, and the town looks very pretty; — having the three churches peeping over the trees. GHENT, Where I would advife you to get a Lackey dc louage, and fee die places hereafter mentioned* — A very large well built town; — having fe-veral fquares ; handfomc houfes -, plenty of water , and good bridges. — The barracks are worthy the attention of an officer; — a good parade , on which is the heft inn , St. Sdbaf-tian ; which., for accommodation and good treatment , is much recommended. — In the great market-place ista fine ftatnc of Charles the Filth in his robes , and fceptcr in his hand. — He was born here. — On a bridge are figures in brafs, — A Son going to behead his Father at his own defire. As one of them was to fuffer , the Judges determined it fo ; — but as the blow was threatened , the blade of the fabre broke , and they were both pardoned. S. Peters is reckoned to be the fineft church i . .... the ( to ) the Altar is grand , being a pile of iilver ; —w fine dome , iron gates , and figures round ; -~-tapeilry very fine. — A good picture of St. Peter aud Idngcl, by an Italian matter. — A Crucifix , by Vandyck. — A remarkable picture painted near a hundred years ago , by Croyera ; — the colours ftill fine. — In the di^ ning halt-— are fome good Zandfeapes; — particularly one by ^rtois. — The deling well p aiuted. — The library a very grand room. — Some curious Bafs Relievos by Hyeras. — The view* of the country from the windows , very agrea-ble. — In the Abbd's houfe , are fcveral good pictures by Rubens , Tcniers , &c. In a little chapel is a curious ivory Crucifix. — The carving in frames round the pictures very fine. Several good buildings ; airy court-yards fur-round the houfe j the fituation pleafant and agreable. — As this is the belt part of the town. The Cathedral of St. Bavo is a noble pile of building. — There arc fcveral fine marble chapels , with brafs gates. —The altar handfomc ; feveral tombs ; — a very good piefure of Charity by Rubens ; the Women and Children very natural ; ■— A defcent from the Crofs by Rom-bout , very well done ; — the pulpit is remarkable , being fupported by a tree of Marble , and feveral C rt ) fcveral fine Marble figures furronnd ic. There is a tolerable pifturc of St. Sibajlian. — Tha decollation of St. John , very fine ; — there are many good copies after Rubens , and Fan-tfyck. The .organ light and pretty , over one of the Aides. At the Bernardints , which is a pretty little church. — There arc two good pictures , by a fcholar of Fandyck's. Neat quadrangl e little chapel and dining room. A beautiful pulpit m the dormitory The town-houfe has a handfome front ; — There is fome fine tapeftry in the Council-chamber , a curious door which opens different ways on hinges. — A good piece by Croycra , of the judgemcnr of Solomon ; — great expreffiou and nature throughout ; particularly in the woman wl*o difowns the child , and a foldier who lays hold of it. At St. s/ugufiine's , which is a tolerable church , are fome good pictures at the altar. At the Carmellut , is fome fine carving in wood. St. Michael's is a very fine church. — a capital piece by Fan&yck , of a Crucifix ; — the anxiety , in three figures, very great, — the body fine ; — a boy weepiDg over our Saviour, by a fcholar of Fandyck. — There are feveral after Rjthm , —• aud fome tolerable pieces by othei maftcxs C 12 )' mailers ; particularly the Pentuofi , by Croycra ; — great foftnefs , &c. in the ftyle of Guido. -— Madona's face ; — Light from the Holy Ghojl, and a fine groupe to the left — The marble altars , chapels , and carving in wood , have a rich and pretty effect. DOMINICANS. A good Church. A rich look at the entry. Several tolerable Pictures by fcholars of Rubens , and Fandyck ; — particularly by Fer-hagen , of Louvain. — who is looked on to be the modern Rubens , and was fent for by the Emprefs, to paint at Fienna. Alio a fine piece by Roos. Our Saviour in Madona's lap.— LightnefV in the drapery , hands, and shade throughout. At St. sllcxis—is a piece by Croycra, of the Refurrection.—A pretty chapel. In Mr. Scamp's cabinet of pictures there are feveral very fine ; particularly the Prodigal Son by Michael sJngclo of Boncrotti; — a head. Some fine sketches by Fandick — A fine piece by Mo-rillio , of a capuchin with our Saviour; a book in his hand; — his hand on the friar's head.— A convcrfation after T> zniers by Rubens. —- A fine head , and woman; faid to be by Raphael, but more likely by Leonard de Fcncy.—A pretty piece c 13 3 piece of Reubens , Vandyck , and their miftrefles — Apollo and rifing Sun , &c. in the manner of Guido , by Buckfoolt—A good head hy Mieris. M. Bamies cabinet of pictures , worthy observation.—A family at dinner , by Tenters. A child and two dogs, by Fandyck; nothing can be finer. —Two pieces by old Franks; of our faviour bearing the crofs, and the erection.— Amazing agony of the thief. — Our Saviour in Madona's lap; and St. John, by Rubens.— Two Friars under a tree, by Tenters. — A good Historical piece , by Cleaver ,—Sweet countenance of females.— Our Saviour fcourgct-difagrecable to the look, being fo well executed; — fwcetnefs in his countenance , equal to the harshnefs in the countenances of the men, one of whom is preparing the road, and of the other man , who grins and clinches his fill; by Zeigeres, Txjefuit;—curious fowl-pieces by Snelders, of Brujfels.—Mr. 67c-mcrs pictures arc pretty good ,—particularly fome by Michon , and slfchcm , in the ftyle of Ruben %, -—Several finely done by Berghcm , Vanderneer , 11"ouvermas, and Teniers.—Infidc of a Church by Deneff, fuppofed to be his belt. A Mr. Darfpcr has fome pictures worthy your obfervation. As alfo have the different dealers ; whofe collection are always worth looking at. Having feen every thing at Ghmt, you will 3 thjnck C M ) think of pirrfuing your jonrney to Bruffcls. To which place there arc two roads.—The neareft is thro' sJloft , but if you have never been at yfntwerp, would by all means advife thad road. As there are fevcral things worth your feeing there.— But will give an account of both roads; — fir ft , by way of Jffoft.—From Ghent, you will either go in the coach, or in a hired carriage and horfes; —The expence of which to a party is much the fame. — The road to ylloft very plcafant, particularly about three miles off; — a Church , — Convent , a plcafant view. t — At the Church is an exceeding fine picture of the Plague at Pctronus , by Rubens. — Ob-fervc the groupe under the bridge.—And fome other tolerable pictures. — There is a tomb to Theory Martin , the inventor of Printing ? with an epitaph, by Erafmus.—The town fmall, but pretty and delightfully fituated. — About three miles off Aloft; a pleating view to the left, where is a church , and fine hilly country. To Bruffcls , within three miles of Aloft is the large abbey of 'Atfftgcm.— confuting of twenty-eight Dominicans; — Their fituation is very comfortable , having a handfome provilion , and noble apartments, befides a moft fertile and plcafant country.—Thcfo gentry are very polite and bountiful to all viiitants—therefore , contrive to be with (15) with them before noon , in order to dine with them.—And as it is net two miles out of yonr road , — it is well worth your going thither. The church is elegant.—At the altar is a line piece by Rubens, of our Saviour bearing the Crofs; the Madona's line attitude;—wiping the fwcat from our Saviour's face. — Anne , daughter to the duke cf Brabant , and wife to Henry I. is buried here.- At Bruffcls; you will go to the Imvcrairiec , or Hotel d'Angleterrc , which arc reckoned the be ft. Inns. But if you wish to be quiet, and attended , I would recommend you to the Maifun Rouge , where you will meet with good and reafonable treatment; — having got a Lackey de Place, would advife your feeing the following places. But before I begin with, an account of them , I •shall give a defcriptive account of the other road from Ghent, thro* Antwerp to Bruffcls. Tuft out of Ghent;—the town looks grand , from tkc ilze , number of churches , £»c; you pafs thro' Weftmujler , and fcveral villages.—The road is fandy, and not amufing; only fome fine oaks.---Near Antwerp , go over a caufeway , thro' marshes not unhke Ronuiey, — on which are a great quantity of fine cattle , in a very fine pafture.— Antwerp looks very noble from the ferry , par-ticularly the Abbey of St Michael, to the right---The two large gates, churches, &>c.—add B a much C 16 ) much to the view, extending a long way by the-fide of that fine river, the Schddc , which yon ferry over, near a mile. —The banks, each way , look exceedingly pleafimt. being agreeably skirted with villages, and veffels , boats, &c. con-ihntly moving about.— On one of the gates is the ftatue of a Giant, in a throwing pdftarej-^ and reprefents Antigoh, who it is faid , cut off the hands of ftrangcrs, and threw them into the river fPerp, —which in English, is trowing , and Ant being hand, makes Antwerp. ANTWERP. You land on a good quay , which is very ex> tenfive , and commodious. — Go dircclly to the-inn ; — would recommend the Bear , an exceeding good j reafonable , and well fituated inn;. — and the landlord ftudies to oblige the English , having been very ufeful to the Duke of Cumberland in the laft. war. —- By all means try to. get one Dubois, an exceeding intelligent Lackey de Place , Who will fettle a Rout, that you may fee the town , and every thing in it worthy your obfervation ; — amongft which I will take the liberty to remark the following. In traverfing the town, you. will obferve the gooduefs of fome of .the buildings and ftrccts particularly ( 17 ) particularly of the Mere , or the great ftrcet, in which your inn is. -~ Oppoiite to which is a fine find latge Crucifix of brafs, on a marble pcdeftal. — The coaches parade here , every afternoon ; — of which there are many belonging to per-fons retired from bulinefs, as well as people of family. In this ftrect , arc fome noble houfes , inns , &c. — and they pat travellers very much in mind of Italian towns ; — being chiefly itone buildings.—The exchange was a model to thofe of London and Amflerdtun. The view from different parts of the ramparts are very plcafant , particularly on the fide of the Schclde , from the Abbey of St. Michael. — The country very rich and plcafant. — The fuburbs are very large , and town populous , having fcveral manufactories of lace , breweries , &c. Being now provided with your Lackey de place, V/ho will procure you a book called Dc/crip-tion des principaux Ouvragcs it Pcinture & Sculpture , dans la villc d'Aav&rs : — I shall endeavour to point out many of the beauties contained therein , and to begin with the. B 3 CATH.R- C18 ) CATHEDRAL, or NOTRE DAME. You muft firft obferve the fpire , remarkable for its height and lightnefs. Three entries to the Aifles ; — the great richnefs and noble look of the feveraL chapels , which feem ranged to pleafe the eye ; — the fine marble pillars , on which are pictures framed with marble ; — curious carving in wood ; — good paintings on the windows, particularly the dome. — Take different points of view of the Aifles : —■ at an altar a good picture , re-prefenting our Saviour amidft the converted tinners ; and feveral other tolerable pictures ; but above all , pay particular attention to that Chef i'Oeuvre of Rubens , called the Defcent from the Crofs. — The difpofition of the body is eafy , natural and admirably done;—the body en a sheet ; — hand on thigh ; — man h red ; — right leg on the ladder ; — the hand on the shoulder ; — anxiety of the man at top leaft any accident should happen to the body ; — fine figures of women at the foot of the crofs ; — the foot on one of their shoulders ; '— countenance of figure behind ; — blood on .body and arm ; — the tender cxpreiiion of the Madonu , whofe hand fupports his elbow she she being fearful of his falling ; — fine old man ; — cloth in mouth; — and hand on crofs. There is alfo a good piece on each fide, by the fame maiicr. Oppofite rhe chapel of St. Barbc, is a monument of the family of Moretus, the attitude well defigned. — There is an exceeding fine copy from Vandyct, of a Crucifix, in the chapci of St. Barbz. In the chapel of Pcllcticrs, is a good picture by Zeigers. On a pillar of the chapel of Maccns , is a monument of Groubon , representing the Virgin with our Saviour, very finely done , by Rubens. In the chapel of Painters ,. tkc. dedicated to* St. Luke , is a good old picture by Martin dt Vos;—and fome fine fculpture. In die chapel of Circumcifion is a fine piece, rcprefenting our Saviour , detached from the crofs ; —in. which there are fcveral figures > and a great deal of nature troughout. Take nodce of the grand entry into the choir; curious itatucs; marble Bishops. At the altar, a fine picture of the AlTumption of the Virgin , by Rubens;— great exprellion of the man , whofe eyes feem to follow her; — all the faces very diftinct, particularly three, old heads > — Angels finely executed. A ( *o ) At the altar of Frippier, which is of very fin a marble , is a good piece of St. Catherine disputing with the doctors. To the left of the chapel of the Virgin is a Tery handfome altar of withe marble , curious bajfo relievos ; near which is a fine monument of the family of Michicljens; a good picture of our Saviour on his mother's breaft, — and a holy family , by Rubens. St. WALBUR G. Which is a very fine churh ; you afcend to the altar by feveral fteps which has a very good effect.— Here is a good picture by Rubens, of the Erection of the Crofs ; — his body is well done; — on the fides are two pieces , better executed; particularly, — the horfc.— the female fuckling a child , who is crying. — Grief of Madona , finely exprclfcd. — There are three pretty pictures by Papine ;—■ and one finely done by a fcholar of Rubens. St. JACQUES. Is a handfome building; — a very fine Coup (TOtil from the centre. rIVo magnificent chapels , and the altar very grand, of marble; -— (M) a curious piece of fculpture , of Dcfcent from the Crofs, in. ftonc.—A good picture of the Refurrcftion; —the Amazement of Guards finely expreifed. In the Chapel of St. Roche , — obfervc the face of the piece.—A pretty good piece of thcCrofs. In the Chapel of St. Ives, and oppofitc , are two good tombs and pictures. In Rubens-'s Chapel where he was buried , is an exceeding fine piece at the altar painted by bimfelf. — It is the Holy Family, reprefented by himfelf, and all his family, including his Grandfather, three Wives , and two Children;—and is finely executed; — the colours well preferved , and very bright ; — fwcet group of Angels , with garlands over our Saviour's head, — His figure is reprefented by St. George , and the attitude is fine. — The great fwcetnefs in the countenances of his wives ; and the very natural and pleating look of the child. In the third Chapel: near Rubens's, , is a good picture of the Yilitation of St. Eliiabeth , — the fweetnefs of her countenance;—hand;—-alfo a picture of the "Virgin, and two Children weeping. To the right of the altar > is an amazing fine piece , representing Eternity , a mo ft amazing idea ; —- obferve the mouth and neck, — Ther» ( M ) — There is alfo a Very fine flattie of St. Jacques. Throughout this church the marble is fuperb. St. A N D R £ W S. There is a very good picture of the unfortunate Queen Mary. The Citadel is worth your looking into; — being a very airy plcafant fpot ; very ftrong , and well regulated. — In the Church is a curious niaufoleum of the Marquis De/pico, — who is lying on his couch , — and awakened by Death, — his children weeping above , —-well executed. ABBEY of St. MICHAEL. The appartments arc noble, curious painting, to imitate marble. — Chimney boards by Le Hucur, to reprcfent Baffo relievo. — The Chapel is very pretty ; — the dining-hall , is a handfomc fpacious place ; — a very curious Itaircafe , and fome tolerable pictures , cfpc-cially our Saviour 'with his difciples. — An old man and three children , with a goat. In one of {he apartments are fcveral good pictures; C *3 ) pictures ; particularly , the loaves and fishes ; — holy family , by Rubens ; — fine Crucifix , by Fandyck. — Obferve from hence , the view of the Scheldt and country. — Landfcape by Berghem ; — and fome good baffo relievos. - In the church , at the altar , is a fine piece by Rubens , of the Adoration of the Magi ; — the face admirabily done and the women turning onr Saviour , very natural. — A good church and altar. St. A U G U S T I N S. A very handfome Altar ; the picture is by Rubens , and reprefents the Virgin and our Saviour , accompanied by feveral figures ; — great nature and fweetnefs in our Saviour's countenance , and females receiving him , very great : — angels over the picture ; — body and lightnefs of figure on fteps. — Perfons in the gallery. — Harmony and foftnefs throughout. At the altar of St. yfugujlin, is an amazing fine piece , reprcfenting that Saint in exitacy , with his eyes towards heaven , where he beholds our Saviour in the mid ft of Angels. Obferve attentively the figure of a woman , her face , and manner of croffing her hands , and the fweet countenance of an Angel ; — the C*4 ) the face of St. Auguftin is inimitable ; boy with brand ; — the Angel looking at the Friar, and pointing to our Saviour, hh great light-nefs in the Angels pofture. — This piece may be well called a mafter-piece of Vandyck , and I think it is one of the moft pleating at Antwerp. There is great merit in feveral other pictures. But particularly in a room belonging to the Convent, is a moft amazing piece by Vandyck, — of a crucifix; — the difpofition of the head', and body lay eafy and natural ; —■ blood on cloth gushing from his fide; —the feet and toes perfectly bend in with agony. — Great foftnefs troughout, but not the colour and projection of Rubin's. — Here is alfo a good painting , older than Vandyck. GRAND CARMES, Remarkable for the curious marble Chapels, and figures , which arc very fuperb indeed. — The paintings on the windows are alfo fine Near the door of the Veftry , is a holy family after Vandyck; — the profile of a female , fine , — and well coloured. — On the right altar, at the entry of the choir , is that very fine piece by Rubens, reprefenting the dead body of Jefus-Chriit in Jofcph's arms, — the fituation of his head ( »8 ) he?.d on shoulder , — every limb diiUn&Iy comes out from the cloth,—on which his hand lays very naturally.—On the left Altar of the choir, is the Adoration of the Magi, by Otcon VanBeen,maftcr to Rubens. In the Chapel of the Holy Virgin , is an exceeding fine piece of marble , reprefenting the city of Antwerp , and an army. — The altar is fuper-bly decorated with marble , and a itatuc of the; Virgin. — To the left, at the Altar of Jr. Crvix , is a little picture on white marble , of Jefus-Chrift; — the painting fine, but maftcr unknown. — Between the windows are feveral good pictures, particularly the fepulchrc of our Saviour , —and a holy family; in which are fwcet and natural 'figures of Angels. CHURCH de C II A U S S E Z. Handfome Altar , and very fine marble figures: A holy family, — reprefents the marriage of the Virgin and Jofeph , by Gerard Zicgers, a fcholar of Rubens ; — there is great merit , particularly in her attitude , and manner of giving her hand. — On the right of the Choir is a picture of our Saviour , detached from the crofs --- the faces of the females fine ; — his head and hands , great, — blood gushing on cloth. — On the other fide C is ( 26 )' is a good piece of the Virgin Ste. .Ann. &c. ~, the drapery fine , — the heads great , fmiling .■emalc : — Another fine picture, of the appari-Tion of our Saviour to St. Thcrcjl, who is pra> ing for the fouls of thofe in purgatory ; — this is well worthy of great attention , being by Rubens , -and is reckoned exceeding fine. — Obferve the attitude of our Saviour , the garment, — the fervent and eafy manner of her praying; — the natural looks of the poor fouls in purgatory. JESUITS, Is a very gay pretty building ; — handfome galleries, which look uncommon.—i The altar, organ, &c. agreeable , -— and lightinefs throughout.— Several fine marble chapels; particularly that of the Virgin; — her Affumption at the altar; — angels fine , but the sky rather too blue. —There is a Holy Family , by Lievens and others , worthy obfervation. SODALITY. At the altar, a Holy Family, by Vandyck ,~~ a very fine piece ; — the Aladona's anxious countenance , — and the great fwectnefs and innocence in the Child's look. Another of his fine pieces , C a7 ) pieces, reprefents St. Herman Jojcph ; -— whofe head is inimitably done, — the angels looking at him; — fine countenance ; — the colours rich. — Some fine marble rooms, and frames to pictures. D O M I N I C A N S. Avery handfome lively building, —not unlike a picture gallery. — Mount Calvary , £ RELIGIOUS DOMINICANS Have a good picture at the altar , by Vandyck; — our Saviour crucified ; — at the feet of the Crofs are Ste. Rofalii, St. Dominico, and an Angel; — the face of Female, very great; — the manner of laying hands acrofs> eafy and natural. T 0 W N-H OUSE, A large building , — good front. — In the States room , a tolerable picture after Guerchino. In a little Chamber of the States , is a piece of Game , by Sncydcr ; — the figures by Rubens ; — obferve the Sky f Parrot ? a nd figures. — Portrait of Philip II. on a Horfe , which is finely done. — There are alfo fome very curious drawings with a pen , of which there are many in the town , done by a poor Cad. In the grand magazine of the town there are fome curio s figures , reprefenting Giants , 6>c\ And are ufed , on rejoicing days , to parade the ftreets. — Near this Quarter is an entire itreet of Brewbowfes ; and a curious machine for the conveying 0f the water into the coppers of each houfe. Having given you a defcriptioa of moft of the we public places worthy your attention , J mull next recommend to you to fee the private collections of pictures , and to vifit the fcveral Picture Dealers , if you are an admirer of painting. — But you mutt, at ail events, fee the following collections. Mr. V A N O F R E. Where Rubens's Wives are painted by him-felf ; — the expreffion great ; — Veins fine ; .— shade of the Hat, moft remarkable. — You Will alfo fee a fine Landfcape , by Rubens ; the beafts, figures , and country , inimitably well done ; — the figures , and cattle , are coming from, the canvafs. — The fine glow t and richnefs of colours throughout. Mad. B O U S C K A. Has fome good pictures ; — the Rape of the Sabincs , by Rubens ; — the three Women in the Centre , very finely o.preffcd > — a fine group on the left. — Venus and Cu-yid. — and St. John in the Defait , by Vandyck \ — the Boy looking up at St. John's face , to fee how he is affected with his thruftuig the arrow into his bo-y ',. — « curious, Crtufx in very. y©a ( 33 ) At Mr. I-I O R A 3. You will fee a fine Er.ttle-piece , by Hour-, go/uonc, — the Horfe and Man are inimitably well done ; — a good piece by Tcniers, and a fine Pcujfui. — Gonzales Family ; — great expreffion in every face. If you are not preffed , would advife you to fee the following collections , belonging to gentlemen , — dealers , — and painters. Particularly* Mr. Hyzras, famous for his paintings , to re-prefent Baffo Relievo. Mr. Lens , a painter. Mr. Biska , a painter. Mr, Valuonckcrs. Mr. Vanvergelo. Mr. Bellot. I Mr, Sckourra, BurgomaftcL jl Vanbredal. • Fcefter. Courlks'. Bolts, Orlanderi. ENGLISH CONVENT, Which is for Ladies, you should by all mean! look into ; their order and manner of living , ©ore rigid than any; — a Madam* Pyc, very pc- lite ^ (34) lite , and communicative to vifitants ; — an elegant little chapel , — in which a curious piece of a Lady at her devotion, — angel bowing to her, and Holy Goft over her head. A tolerable pifturc at the altar. Having by this time pretty well tired you with the nomber of things- you have fcen at -Antwerp-, yon' Will think of purfuing your journey to Bruffeh , which you may do by two roacis.—-The one by land thro' Mechlin the other partly by- water , thro' Willcbrodc , and Blomc : — Will therefore defcribe both roads , fo that you may chufe which you like beft.—< I shall begin with that by Mechlin : To which place you pafs thro' a moft delightful country, and is very pleafant and chcarful, through feveral villages. — An avenue of above a mile out of Antwerp ; Which town , foon after you have left it looks grand from the number of churches , &c. MECHLIN, Is a pretty, clean , well-built town ; — good flreets , and market-place , very airy and plea-. fant. At, k ( 35 ) St. J 0 K N's CHURCH, fs a fine painting , by Rubens , of the Wife ' Men's offering ; — and St. Laurence ;-his body fine — St. John ; —■ bead , and body well done ; — blood gushing out, very finely executed , by Rubens. — The altar elegant and pretty. —- Silver angels fupporting the canopy . — fine carving at the pulpit, &c. L' A I L E D'OR, A convent; you will fee a pretty fmall church. -— Curious carving in wood. — A very plea-* ling and good landfcapc. A.t NOTRE DAME D'ANSVIC, Is a fine dome. — The carving in wood., ■and ftonc , very curious , particularly the pulpit. At the parish church of NOTRE DAME, The fcveral marble altars are very grand. —-Fine fiatues of the Apoftles , againft the pillars. — A fine painting of a dead Chriir. ; the ( 3<* ) the Magdalen's "ttears, finely expreiTcd , —Here is alfo a capital piece , by Rubens, of the draught of Fishes ; \ — obferve our Saviour's hand « —— the man who draws in the net , his face and countenance ; — the mouths of the fishes are very natural. At the CAPUCHINS, Are fome very curious figures of Druids , &c. RECOLLET,' A good piece , by Vandyck , of a Crucifix;—the Female's faces and hands finely painted ;— our Saviour's brcaft;— and the agonizing twinges of the thieves , very great. ST. ROMBOUT Is a reprefentation of the Lord's Supper , by Ru* lens; and fevera.l tolerable pictures by Albadura* In your wray from hence to Brujfels,—you will have a fine view of a large old caftle, in which the Duke of Cumberland encamped. — The country is exceeding plcafant, particularly when paft- •thro' a village within fix miles from Bruffcls____ Villevoorden Caftle , &c. looks very romantic and pretty. ( 37 ) pretty.—As you go by the fide of the canal, on the left of which is a fine hilly country, with feveral Ckatcaus and Gardens, particularly a very magnificent one , belonging to L'Entcur, the famous actor at Bruffcls; — and on your right are many villas , and taverns , with plealant walks, fountains, &c. the whole of the way to the courfe , or road , which leads into Bruffcls, and is a long avenue with feveral rows of fine trees.— Here the quality, &c. parade in coaches, and on foot, every afternoon.—There arc alfo two roads thro' avenues of trees , clofe to the canal. —The town at the end looks very noble, and the environs are very agreable. Having conducted you the land-way to Bruffcls, I mull now think of defcribing that by land and water. You go in a coach thro' a molt agreable and furprifingly rich cultivated country, and itraight road ; on which you fee the iteeples of both towns to Blomc, from whence W'UUbrook looks very picturefque.—The view up and down the Scheldt, pleafing;—you ferry over , and go all the way to Bruffcls; on the canal in indifferent boads, and thro' feveral fiuices. Before I begin to give a defcription of Bruf* D [eh % ( 3* ) fcls, I mnft remind you of my promlfe to describe the feveral beauties of the roads and towns , from Calais, by the way of St. Omen and Lifts', to Brutfels. ARDRES, Prettily fi'nated on a hill ; — road and conn-try plcafant to St. Omcrs , as there are many good houfes , gardens , convents , &c. — fine avenue to the town;_the fortification fmall. but compact; —large well-built town, line fituation and air. — As there are feveral things worthy your attention, I muft detain you here a few hours. Go to St. BE RTIN's CHURCH, Which is a handfome light edifice ; — a fine organ , fupported by marble pillars , — a very curious carving in marble at the entry of the choir, of the Hiftory of St. Benin ; — handfomc altar , and feveral good chapel on each fide of the choir ; — tapcitry and landfcapes tolerable , but abfurd in a place of worship. —, Hiflory of St. Benin , and another picture of fcourging C30 fconrging our Saviour, &, as there are feveral great curiofitics ; the late Maf-ter Dr. Butler, being an antiquarian and a very feniible man. From St. Omer's to Lijletherearfi two roads, either by Caffcl, or trough Ah& and Bdchune.— The country about Aire is very fine, and the town large and handfome; — a Ipacious market-place; Da — good (4°) good buildings, with ftatues upon them; — and fevers! churches. BETHUNE. Is alfo a large town; — and the environs are very pleafant.—• You go through feveral fine avenues of trees to Life ; — at the entry of which is a handfome Villa. The other road by Caffll, not quite fopleafant; but , as that place is worthy of obfervation, from its height , and plcafant views , I would by all means advife yuu to take it in your v.-ay. —<- The roads are but indifferent , and country not very plcafing. — Soon after you have left St. Omcr's , which loocks very handfome, — you pafs by the famous aqueduct that conveys the water into the town. Having mounted the hill to Caffd, you will of courfe go to the feveral points of view : — From one of which you will fee Oftend, and the ships at fea ; — between which, a vaft tract of country : • — From another fpot; St. Omer's, slirc , &c. afford a pleafing profpeft. — And from a third , the Old Convent of Recollects , which h>ocks very romantic and pretty. — Alfo a plcafing view of a town, about a league off. — The Recoiled ( 4i > 'Recollects now live in the Convent which lately belonged to the Jcfuits. In descending the hill you will have a very extenfive and pleafing view to Lijle ; — and go through a fine woody , rich , inclofed country ; - to Balllcul, which is a large town „ and has a great lace manufactory ; - fituated on a riling ground , — and furrounded by hills. — Near Nccfc are pretty views from a bridge , after which , you pais through Armtntieres which is a large town ;__romantic country about the town ; - plcafant road , through Terpentine avenues of trees to. LISLE; Which it a very large well built town ; — noble , fpacious market-place ; "~ fine ftreets lead to it, particularly Rue Roy ale ; — feveral handfome buildings , and churches. - Has a very itrong fortification , and generally a large guari-fon.— The fquare is a fine , open , airy place; —where there is an elegant Coffee-houfc , and a good Manage for horfes , — fituated on the banks of the river. Near this place is the citadel , divided into eight quarters, with a pleafant walk on the ram-D 3 parts, parts , round the Governor's houfe , and bnr-laks. — The magazines large ; and noble trees, The gate of Malade, where Louis XIV. made his entry , very grand. — There are alfo fix other handfomc gates. The Exchange is fmall; the manufactories con-fift chiefly of thread , linen , Huff, cloth , and lace. You muft go to the Hotel Royal on the market-place , and after having got a Lackey de Place, would advife you to look into the following Churches. &c. RECOLLETS. In which Church is a remarkable altar , and fine painting of a Defcent from the Crofs ; — and Holy Family , by Rubens. —■ A fine head of our Saviour; — devout Soldier, — his eyes fixed. — Some good pictures in the body of the Church ; — a Crucifix , by Vandyck, very fine ; particularly the Female at the foot of the Crofs, — Pictures at each Altar ; the power of a Friar who makes a horfe kneel ; — Affumption , well done , by Vandyck. HOSPITAL ( 43 ) HOSPITAL for INVALIDS, Is a handfome building ; — feveral good and Sweet rooms. — A pretty little Chapel. St. PIERRE. Has fome very good pictures; particularly one , of our Saviour delivering the keys to St. Peter t Lid to be painted feveu hundred years ago , by an unknown hand. — This is a very handfome church , efpecially the altar , — where there i$ fome fine marble ; — a Crucifix , great merit in the women. — Several pictures above four hundred years old, from which , it is thought Rubens took defigns. — Curious Organ , mathematically built , and fine ftatues at top, as large as life. — Alfo feveral curious brafs and marble figures. CAPUCHINES CONVENT for Ladies* A fiue picture of the Earl of Flanders , an his Lady. — Curious contrivance for friends to dine with the Nuns ; — convey plates and dishes , &c. under the iron bar to their parlour, —t Several fine chapels , one above the other ; an admirable ftatuc of Madana of Lsrato. CAPU- (•44 y CAPUCHINS for Men J Where you will fee a fine piece by Rubens, cf the Defoent from the Crofs ; — the figure on the ladder, — his foot perfcftly bends ; w the natural dead look of our Saviour's legs. ■— The figures project from the canvafs. St. M A U R I C E. Has a curious old pifture of the Martyrdom of the Saints , finely painted , but frightful to look at ; — being a collection of limbs diffevercd from bodies. Ste. CATHERINE; Where you will obferve , that moft remarkable fine Chef d'CEuvrc , by Rubens, called the Decollation of Ste. Catherine , — her ncc kfhet-ched out to receive the blow ; the great fweet-nefs in her melancholy look ; — a Female hoi ding her hair , alfo one with her arm on her shoulder ; — the executioner ready to give the Wow , — his Item countenance ; — the look of the Female ; the Prieft pointing to an image ; — the hatchet on the Sheep ; — a fine croupe cf Angels over the head. — The light; and ska- ( 4S ) de,and cleamefs throughout , very finely executed. CARMES CHAUSSES I3 a very handfome new Church ; — the pulpit is of curious carved wood i the altars of marble , inimitably done. The Magazine of Corn is a very large good building, five Stories high. You mutt not omit going to a magnificent Con-Vent for Ladies, called Marquette, about a mile from Liftc. — The road through a fine avenue cf trees , at the end of which is this noble houfe inhabited by Ladies of family and fortune, who take the veil. — The apartments of the Lady Ab-befs are grand , commodious , and airy , being fur-rounded by good gardens. — The Chapel very pretty fine marble images. —. Endeavour to be there about prayer time , — as they shew them-felves to ftrangers , and wear the countenance of nobility , with the addition of happinefs. — Their finging , from the manner and found, very enchanting and agreable The walks and rides about Lijle are extrciruy plcafant, agreable , and much frequented. Great (4« ) Great manufactories for linen , cambists, cloth, lace and iilks. Having feen moft of the phecs worthy of your Observation , you will purfue your journey to BruJJlls by way of Uouay , Cmbray , and Mons, as thefe places, and the country , are well worth your feeing,'—fine avenues of trees to Uouay ;-— great quantity of hemp and ilax. D O U AY, Near which is a large Abbey for Ladies, fituated on a fine river.—This is a very pretty well-built town ; — ftrongly fortified; — fix gates lead to the large market-place , on which a town-houfe , and a itatue of the Karl of Flanders; there ar.jfevcral good buildings:— The Arfenal , Foun-dery , Parliament-houfe , Common-hall, St. Urner and St. Jacques arc to be feen : —A curious fpire to a Church; — ramparts plcafant. St. PET E R's; A handfomc church; — curious pillars of dark ftone four of which make one. -~ Chapel at the cud, has a pretty effect through the choir; — a fine ftatueof a female on a tomb; — the Angels weeping, finely exprefied, CAM- C 47 ) CAMBRAY. You pafs through a very fertile country , par-ticularly near B. a Blanche to Cathbfay , which cuts a pleafing afpect between the trees and ramparts; .— a large handfome town. The CATHEDRAL, Is a noble large edifice ; — fine marble ff.at.ues round the pillars.—A good tomb of 3VL Fenekm t Whofe ftaiue is well executed. — Grand altar; — curious clock , contrived by a shepherd ,'—■ who bragged he would make a finer in another country , to prevent which , his eyes were put out. St. AUBERGE. A ood church ; — four pillars fupport an im-menfe dome.; — iron rails round;— the pcrfpec-tive of gallery and roof, fine. St. SEPULCHRE, A very good building ; — two fine ri&ures. — our Saviour's Afcenfi m , and Virgin , faid to be done by St. Luke. A\u fome curious painting C 48 ) painting by Mr. Hycras , to reprefent baflh relievo. — The fteeple is alfo light and curious. YALENTIENNE. A lf-rge town; — great manufactories of lace and Cambriclc , as well as at Cambray , from which place cambriclc derives its name. From hence you go through a very fine country , to. MONS, Which is alfo a very large town; — feveral good buildings. St. G E R M A I N S, A very handfome church. CATHEDRAL, A noble Gothic building; — fine coloured ftone ; — marble chapels , and figures remarkable — painted windows , gloomy and grand; — ftrongly fortified. Fine inclofed country , to and about Brain la Compte; — large Chateau , near Tibufc. — A no- '-V ■ ■; blc C 49 ) blc caufeway to Brufjlh , makes a handfome ap< pearance on a rifing ground. BRUSSELS, A large well built town , fituated partly on a bill. Some very good ftrects , at the aiglc-s of moft are fountains , — and fome very curious defigns. Having got your Lackey de Louagc would have you fee the following places. In one of the fquares is a fine ftatue of Minerva , holding the buft of the Emperor and Emprcfs; faid to be prefented by Lord s/lcf-bury. A famous ftatue of a naked Boy. >~Ne-ptuue , and his Tritons, fpouting water ; as is the Morfe from his mouth and noftrils. The grand place very handfome , having feveral good buildings round it. <—i A fine river runs thro* the town. You will naturally go to a Mr. Danouts , to Whom as well as Mr. Gmrdon the miniftcr, you should procure letters of recommendation. Mr. Panouts' cabinet is szenerally well worth feeing; .— but as he is continually adding or diminishing , it will be to no purpofe to defcribe the beauties of thofe pictures , &c. he then had. — Hut by all means get a fight of Mr. VERULTS Fine COLLECTION, Amongft which arc the following moft remar- E kuble. (50 ) 'kable. — A Convcrfation, by Tenters ; beings himfelf , his wife , and gardener, at his Country houfe, in a landfcape.— A Guard-room— A. Haiveft , obferve the corn , which abfolutely waves wiih the wind , an the reapers are alive; — the sky alfo finely done.— Dover Caftle and a Sturm you fee the dashing of waves , and return of the forge. — Fright of men. — A Portrait , by Rembrandt. — Two fine Heads , by Titian. — A fating Sun and riling Moon , by Vanderncer ; smazingly natural and fine ; Carriage and Boats , ferrying over , very great. A fine Futnderlen , after Rubens : liiiu una Vandyck , their wives and children. Alfo feveral other by JVouiverman , — Bcr-ghem , — Sneydcr , — Ret , — Vadermculen t — Vangoen , — G. PouJJin , &c. &c. But particularly , Srauglcrs , unloading , by fVoau-cnnan, — A white Horfe in a lancifcape , by C.J ordain, — Sailors fmoaking and drinking , by Teniers. — Woman's Head , by C. Dolcl — St. Cecilia in a tpmb , by Dojniruchino yapgejscovering her with a canopy. By way of bonne bouche. you will entertained with that very fine Chef d'O uvre, by Rubens , of the crowning of St. Catherine ; o ' : • the colouring , and brilliancy throughout, — -her divine countenance and f >veet figure , in purple jjiuuu, — the Alaicnidj otuer females finely ( 5i ) finely done ; — the angels and torch , which reflects thro'the whole , exceeding fine ; — the fattin well done : the three females, taken from his wives. TOWN HOUSE, On the top of which is St. Michael killing the Dragon. ■— There arc many good apartments , particularly the grand Council chamber ;--in which there are three pieces of the fined; tapeftry , and are , ift , Charles the V, prcfenting his crown to his fon ; —• ad , the crowning Charles the VI 9 — Philip the Good , granting privile- «. ges. — Another fine piece of tapeftry, the hiftory of Clovis ; the colours are very fine, — al-moft equal to Titian ; — great expreffion in the figures. — At the manufactory of Tapeftry , are alfo at times fome very , fine pieces , but not equal to the Gobelins manufactory at Paris. Mr. Vamvcl's collection , is alfo worthy youi obfervation ; — but is often changing. The playhoufe is exceedingly handfome, gay, and well built, and there are generally very good pieces and performers. St. GODENBURG. A very handfome church , on which is a noble altar, and fine pi&ures , by Rubens, particularly St. Sdbaftian and St. Rocque, — the body ama- E o. zing , (5*) zing, by Vandyck, St. Antonio's Head. — Mr. Col'cr and Infanto, by jbjrtett ; alfo , ofkring a Yeitmcnt to the Pric-it. SABLO N. A good church. --- Altar very handfome. -— Virgin appearing to the Doctors, — after Vandyck. — The heads well done. A Penitent JVJadona , after Rubens ; — her attitude fine and affecting. A marble chapel, —< the gloom ftriking. — A very haufome. Monument ; figures of Virtue and Time. —Some old pieces , by Abadura. CARMELITES. Is a pretty little church. — At the altar is the Alfumption of the Virgin , by Rubens. CAPUCHINS, Poor in building , but equally rich in pictures ; having the fineft piece of a dead Chriir, , at Brujjds , by Rubens ; — every figure is finking ; — the flesh perfect ; you diftinguish every wrinkle. — Another fine picture , by Vandyck. — The Tears of Females and Boy , afto-nishing ; create a pleating melancholy : — Dorothea, fine. — Another pretty little piece , the Virgin prcfenting our Saviour to a Capuchin , whofe pufture to receive him is very natural. LA C 53) LA C HA P E hit E. An indifferent church , but a fine picture at the altar , by Rubens , of the Affumption of the Virgin; — the figures are exceeding fine ; —• great iightnefs and good colouring. CORDELIERS. A fine piece of Architecture. — Several good pictures; by different hands. — Two fine figures of Ste. Anne and St. Jofeph. St. G U D U L E. Is a noblclarge building, in which are feveral handfome chapels,—particularly two at the end ; — large and good ftatues of the Apoftles on the pillars. — Paintings on the windows , after Rubens y very well done. — Curious carving behind the altar, — A very good piece , by Rubens -our Saviour prefenting the keys to St. Peter. -—• And a very fine bit, by Vandyck , of Mary Scotty , — alfo a Magdalen , after him. — St. Chrijlopiier, St. Antonio . and St. Sibajlian , finely done. PRINCE CHARLES of LOUR AIN'S PALACE. Finely-fituated on a hill, and , though fmall, is well worth your feeing , as the apartments are comfortably , and richly famished , — and has fome fme tapeftry hangings; — there is a han 1-B 3 ibme ( 54 ) fome India japann'd room , filled with Indian furniture; — in the gallery or room of pictures are fcveral fine ones , by Rubens , Burgonione and Potenburg. There is a very large, ufeful , and ornamental Mufeum. In which arc many.great curiofities particularly two fine marble ftatues , of a hermaphrodite , and another figure. — great quantity of different Ores, Birds , &c. The ftaircafe is a curious piece of mechanifm , being geometrical , and handfomc. The. Menagerie is but a poor affair ; — but a drole fecne of copulation between a Rabbit and Ren , dr;w moft -male travellers to fee it. A very pleafant view of town and country , from a fmall flower-garden. — A good park , near the Palace. T U R V U R A N. By all means pay a vifit to this little Villa . belonging to Prince Charles , about three league*, from Bruffcls, and through and plcafant country and wood; moft noble avenue of trees, and pretty villages. — The building is old and irregular;—the garden ,and park, are rural.,and ex-tenfive; — a line canal, at the end of which is a long white building , or manufactory; where he manufactures and works himfelf in feveral branches C 55 ) ches ; — painted linens ; — gold , filvcr , copper , and tin laces ; — filleting , &c. The cafcade and Grotto plcafant and convenient ) — a fine .marble "Venus ; — Cbinefe houfe ; — baths ; — magazine for different implements of amufements , fuch as fee-faws ; chairs , &c. — In short , this fpot in calculated to make the time pafs agrcably , an! His High-jjefs is very fond of it, and is much beloved by every body , There are"* feveral dealers at Bruffcls , whofe collection merit to be feen , particularly thofe of Meiirs. Eertcls, Vantuurmts , &c. who generally have very good pictures and arc extremely polite to itrangers. See alfo the cabinets of Meffts. ftelpicrt, arid Pau-wclls ; —• the firit of whom has a very curious painting , by Ehhctnacr; reprefentiug our Saviour on the Globe ; — srfdam, Eve, &c. — A fin-Teniers ;— the group on the left , inimitably doue. — A curious piece in the ftyle of Tilhourg, but painted long before his time by Du cfurffel. —< An extraordinary fine piece by Dcnecf; — dif-tance and perfpeclive , fine ; — figures well done. At the gates of Bruffcls is that fine wood of fiQignhf about fi&tetfit thoufaud five hundred and twenty twenty fix Acres. — In this forcft are feveral priories, which , as well as the town , receive great benefit from the'wood ; — and as fresh trees are conftantly planted , thofe that are cut down are hardly miffed. — An agreable airing to Plaifant Hoff, and Marli, which are much frequented on Sundays and Holidays. Having cornpleatcd your curiolity at Bruffcls , Spa will be next ycrnr object. — Therefore , you may either hire a carriage , or go in the coach to Liege. " LOUVAIN. "You go through Louvain , which looks very romantic from a hill going into it , and a fine plentiful country. — An'old , large , ill-built town , famous for a VJnivcriity ; — A very curious old Gothic building , much to be admired for its antiquities and architecture. — The great church , very handfome ; — fome tolerable pictures ; — fine carving in wood , brafi , and ftone ; — curious manner of drclling our Sa--viour , the Virgin , &c. This towui faid to be founded by Julius Cajar. TIRLEMONT. A (trait road to this town. — The churches ) JESUITS CHURCH. Has fome good pidures, particularly one at the altar of a Crucifix. CATHEDRAL , St. SER V AIS , An old romantic building , where there are a few good pictures. At a mountain, called St. Pierre, is a moft extraordinary piece of nature , being a ftonc mountain > thro' which you may go , they fay , thirty miles , without feeing the sky ; would advife you juft to look in it, but not to flay long, which they are fond of prcfiing you to do. — There are men conflantly at work to cut out the Hone's > as there are feveral quarries. — There is alfo a well and fountain , which is curious in fuch a fpot. From hence you will walk up to the old caftle, and to the Convent of Capuchins ;— from which places you have feveral pleating profpcCts ; — the town ; — the river Meufe, skirted with hanging woods , and continually winding ; — on the Mcufe is an extraordinary Ifland , made , they fay , by men's hands. — Over the river is a noble flone bridge , from the top of which , it is faid , Monp.eur d'Auvcrquerque leap'd with his horfe into the river, to convince a Lady of his love. Having now done here, I shall advife you to return ( 70 ) return to Aix, in order to go to DufTddorf, Tt-ther than go from Mwjirkk , as the road is much better. From Aix , yon go thro' a fine avenue and load , for about a league , to an indifferent country , but it improves about fulicrs , a fmall well built town , and to which you pafs over a moft remarkable bridge , for the curious work in the iron ornaments. — The fortifications are ftrong , sind kept in good order. — The country looks better, and more fertile near L'uctU , which is fc.it a poor place ; the people wear a wild countenance , particularly the females, who have a very dark appearance. — Yot^go thro' Nays , an indifferent town , but would advife you to look into the Cathedral , as there are two or three fine pictures. — Alfo a curious fpire to a church. Droll figures, there , and on the market-place. ---From hence you ferry over the Rhine to the poft-houfe at .DUSSELDORF. The town looks very noble as you are going oyer the water , and is a fine , large , well built place. — The Palace , Churches, &c, cut a fine figure. In the market-place is a large ftatue of the Elector , in braft. — Njur the town are two places, where where moft people go to ; — a Hermitage, and Convent of Bernadincs. The firft , is remarkable for its retired and romantic fituation in a wood , where two old men have lived many years ; — from hence you have a fine view of Duffel do rf, and the country. CONVENT of BER NARDINES A large building , and extenfive territory : — Their order very rigid and particular. — No per-fon has liberty to fpeak till he has been there fifty years. — When any one is fuppofed to be dying , they ftretch him on the form of a crof* on the ground , in the hofpital , and he is to " die in that pofition. — Their chapel , rooms . and dining-hall , very neat and commodious. I heard one of the men fpeak . who was old and had been there his fifty years , — could hardly underftand him , as he had almoft forgot the ufe of his tongue. I come now to that moft remarkable fine collection of pictures , in a handfome gallery and apartments, in the PALACE, Which is a very large building. — By the walls of which the Rhine runs ; — plcafant views of that river and country , from the windows. The pictures , of which the following are worth your ( n) your notice are the property of the Elector Palatine for the time being. In the frft room — a fine piece of old Franks; — the great mifeiy of the poor, well expreflcd ; — a landfcnpe , one of the beft, by Bots ; — a feaft , by Jacques Jordaens , the expreffion and diftance great; — oui Saviour bearing the Crofs , by Vandyck ; — Rembrandt by himfelf; — a good head , by Vandyck ; — large picture by Rubens. — A, Burgomafter and his Lady , by Vandyck ; and are fuppofed to be his beft portraits , as they were his particular friends. — Birds and bcafts , by.Fyte , finely don.c and equal if not fuperior to IVenix ; — Sleeping Venus, by Vandyck ; —our Saviour detached from the Crofs ; great cxpreiTion in two females , and man. — Five Virgins with lights , by Candlelight , well done , by Schalcken. In the fecond room — Vandyck by himfelf ; — Henrietta of Bourbon., and three fmall ones alfo , by him , and very fine. — Sufanna and Elders ■ after Titian , — her fear, — their eager looks I — Here is a moft • aftonishing fine piece of taking from the Crofs, by Vandyck , — great nature. — Grief in Madona , and others , — and reckoned his Chef d'Ocuvre ; — a curious piece by Berghenij in which an Afs with Par.icrs , with two Calves. — A-naked boy , by Carlo maratti; — and C 73 ) and another by Guido ; — Mountebank , by Girardow; —the carpet-finely done Phyilcian and fick woman bleeding , by Jan Stem. — St. John and our Saviour by Vandyck. In the third room — a moft elegant pi&ure 9 by Baroul , of our Saviour and Virgin Mary in the garden ; —- his dignity and her countenance of furprize and fweet humility , equal to Raphael ;>-< a fine piece by Girardow , of a man with a barrow of greens, and another witha hare; —Her id's cruelty, A Carracci; — dread in the countenances ; — flight to Egypt , by P. Vcronefc ; — Luca Jar-dano, by himfelf, very fine ; holy families, by Raphael, and Parmigiano.— An aftonishing fine Ecce Homo , by Corregio , — eyes , hauds, and fingers , very great , but melancholly idea. St. John in the Defert, by Raphael, very fofc and fine; — hands , and feet, great; m our Saviour, St. John, old woman and Madona , by Andrea del Sarto , very fine ,efpecially the old woman ; — holy families ,by Titian, m Apiece by Gacrehino , Dido {tabbing herfelf, — fword and body finely expreiTcd; — grief in countenance of women ; — fteady look of guards. — A picture , rcprefenting the Devil in a Friar's drefs , tempting our Saviour , by L-Jordano ; — alfo his bearing the Crofs , by Carlo Dolci ; — the hand finely done ; — Venus and Cupid , by Albano ; — one of his beft ; — * G very -C 74 ) very good bit by Baffau , — A Guido Cignati;' arrows in body.— Holy Family , by Carlo Dolci; — fwect countenances of the Virgin and our Saviour ; — the colours fine ; — Sufanna and Elders , by Dominichino ; — taking.from the Crofs , by L. Jordano ; — the natural exprcffion of the Virgin wiping blood from the wound ! — A charming Madona , by Carlo Dolci. — Some fine copper baffo relievos , by Soldani. In the fourth room , Four exceeding capital pieces , by Rembrandt , of the erecting and taking from the crofs , and two noble portraits; —force and nature throughout. — A girl aflecp , by ^tmorofo ; — afeafVby J.Jordans ,— the child's face, and a cock, very natural; w the females and child's countenance and lantern great. —Several good pictures by Van-dcrw&rff, particularly the introduction to the Temple -, — Ecce Homo \ —- Defcent from the crofs. — Obferve the Virgin taking thorns from his head; — the Magdalen weeping at the feet amazing , and in the ftyle of Guido. — Crowning the Virgin; the beft of all ; — Boy and head of female ; — the penitent Magdalen. — The Colours extremely fine and foft in all his painting. — Allumption , by Guido Rhcny , light and bold ; — moft elegant figure;—angels which fupport her ,and countenance , clear and great , — laid to coft near tom thoufand pounds ftcrling. You C 75 ) Yon now come to the grand gallery , which con ii its of forty-eight pieces by Rubens; —foifte of which are very capital, particularly Delilah and Sampfon , where she is going to cut his hair. Obferve the pleafure in her countenance , and force in theirs. — Silenus ; — the laces of Satyr and Women , finely done ; — fix Cupids with gar. lands of flowers, — reckoned the pearl of Rubens' collection. — Diogenes ; —- Satyr , and Charity. — Hell ; — fo well executed that it shocks one to look at it ; — countenances fo admirably well done; the top part particularly linking; — One frnaiier , better done ; — the colours harmonious* — Battle-piece altonishing ; — the horfes abfolutcly plunge in the wrater ; — great force, and fine colours. — Allumption of the Virgin , and the Pentecoft , great. — Holy family , furrounded by angels holding garlands by Brughcl ; — the Nativity. — Elev^-mcnt d'Armenia , great; — Cupids faces and flesh , amazingly fine , and garlands , by Sneyder ; —-Magdalen converted; her countenance and colours fine. — St. Laurent; — anxiety in his watching , finely expreficd ; Seneca dying in the bath ; — Nero his fcholar liftening to his I a ft words. Rubens and his wife ; — alfo two former wives. A very fine Landfcape , by P. Btilit; — the G « catttS! ( 7* > cattle and human figures very natural , and finely executed. — A girl blowing out a candle , by. Scalchcn ;'obferve the breath coming out of the mouth. — Some fruit and flowers well done , by Rachel Ruyfi of Amftcrdam. — In this gallery are fome exceeding fiuc Bronzes. — The apartments of the Elector and Elc&refs are very handfomc and comfortable ; a curious cabinet with glafi panncls , gold , and purple. Having fatisficd your curiofity in this noble gallery ; it may be worth your while to vifit Mr. Krahe,, who is director of the Academy ;—and he lias generally fome performances that merit ob-fervation. — Mr. fVit?erlcn has often fome valna. ble pictures in his enftody. The barraks arc large , handfome , and airy. The road from Dujfeldorf to the ferry , by the fide of the Rhine , very pleafant. From hence you may afcend the Rhine to Bonn ; but as there is nothing remarkable by water , would advife you to go thither by land , in which cafe you pafs through Dormagcn , to wdiich , and after , the country is plcafant , as you often catch views of the Rhine. COLOGNE, Looks very fine , with the hills and Rhine on the left; — and the number of churches and buildings. — Immenfe mountains ! This C 77 ) This is a very large old built town. — The circumference nine miles ; — a gallery arched al-moft round. — The ftrects in general are narrow , and but few open places. A good quay ; — great wine trade carried on. — Iloufes plea-fantly fituated on it ; — and the oppofite village of Duui >looks vcry prctty'from y°ar inn» the St. Efprit, or Three Kings. St. PETERS, Is a fmall neat church , and has in it a Chef-d'Oeuvre of Rubens , who was born here , and prefented the City with the picture ; — the hiftory is St. Peter on the Crofs , turned upwards ; — his mouth and teeth aitonishly fine ; — you think that you can cafily put your hand in ; feet alfo well done ; the great eagernefs of live figures, who are nailing him..— There are alfo two fine pieces by Croycra. JESUITS. A very handfome fmall church , and ntmoft a modern building. — The pictures at the altar ars fine , and many good ones round a Crucifix. —-Landfcape at the altar. CAT H E D R A L. A molt noble flrueture in decays — of the ftee-plc-partthey ufe as a malt houfe ; —- the paiu-O 3 tings tings on the high windows are fine ; the archc3 icmarkably lofty , and light as air ; — fever;:! fine marble figures, and fome good pictures rourd the choir, and in the chapels ; — grand organ, — In a tomb , arc the bodies of threewifc men or kings, buried in a chapel behind the choir. It is faid they came from the Fait to worship the Saviour of the world , and that their bodies came from Conftantlnoplc ; — called Gafpar , Melchior, «nd Balthazar ; the credulous receive great plea-furc in having their beads rubbed againft their fculls, which are exhibited to view. -— Richnefs <->f ornaments furprifing -, — They keep a conf-tant light. — Curious figure under a desk. Their treafure is beyond defcription for richnefa and curiofitics. — The league between the Pope, Triers, and Polcgne, is kept here. St. A U G U S T I N S. A neat little chapel , a Magdalen , and paintings , by yllbadura. In one of the ftreets are two Horfes at a garret window \ — where it is faid , they came to convince a man , that his wife who was buried the day before , was not dead. Mary de Medicis, Queen of France , died in a room in this city, in a moft forlorn condition , --- being not only banished by Richelieu, but alfo r.rove to the utnioft want, of which she died in, i 79 ) gjftt thoufand fix hundred and forty three ; — fa union for gratitude I for she was the caufe off all his greatnefs. Here is a very large flying bridge , — and the firft you, meet with of the kind on the Rhine, and is very curious from the machinery. — it is worth while to crofs over to Duiti, to fee the town of Cologne, which makes a noble exteniivc view ; particularly the old church. — There is ?. very melancholy old church , an ancient fabrick ; fome curious black paintings in the choir. From hence I would have you pafs thro' Botihl and Falkon Lujl, or Lodge ; for Futkoning belongs to the Elector of Cologne, in your way to Bonn * — to which places the country is rather flat , and not very agreable. B R U H L. Ah handfome country , and hunting feat ; — -magnificent Hair cafe ; — composition to imitate marble; the ftairson arches , fupported by fcveral columns, with four large figures ; —- beneath the arches are paintings of Falkon Lujl, and alio fome tolerably well done on the flair cafe ; -«~ which , all together , has a pretty effect. — The fidoon is very grand ; fine figures , and landfca-pes, in bajfo relievo. —- A holy family , by Ru-fc«f,!tyd fcveral good paintings, by McJ'cadi. —• In ( 8o ) Ift the dining-room , which is very elegant, is t gallery round , and a moft curious agate and marble table ; w fine haffo relieves. —In the anti-chamber , are- fome fine tapeftry landfcapes , done at Lyons ; the frames to which are curious. — In an adjoining room fome more fine tapeftry and tables. — On the wright wing , a room , with tapeftry from Bruffcls ; from wdicnce you go into a very plcafing chearful room ; — compofition of colours and finery , being green , yellow , gold , and filvcr, of different colours in flowers ; as are moft of the rooms in the fame ftyle. — The cielings very beautiful. — Moil of the glalfcs arc in the corners of the rooms. — Several fine view* of the gardens; — in which are many canals and ftatues. In a bed-chamber, which is rich and elegant r the cieiing is particularly fine , both in the carving , gilding , and painting. — The glaffes are fuper'o indeed I Library fmall, but pretty.—The cafes handfo-me , and wel contrived. Dining parlour of entire delft tiles.— Chints bed-chamber; —near which a room , in which It's good piece of the Crucifix , by Vandervoll. Card-room , a curious picture of two French Ladies. , , Hall or Gallery , almoft filled with flag's horns. The ■ The fituation of Bruld is not very eligible , as it joins to an indifferent village, and a very flat country. Go on the canal , to a very curious Chinefe Building , on an iflaad. --- There arc feveral rooms, and a kitchen , which are prettily contrived; — paintings on the walls. — Curious lantern flair Cafe; — from the top of which you fee a large building, called China; —whither you will alfo go; — and confifts of feveral rooms. —Thofe above are handfome , particularly one of red , gold , and giafs , prettily difpofed. — Two bed-chambers , and fmall rooms in the wings; — very plea- flint in fine ■wcr.thei'. The Menagerie is alfo worth your feeiug. You will now proceed to FA LEON LUST. Which is very near, and a box for the amu-femcnt of Falconing ; —- and is very pleafantly fituated with a wood behind. — The faloon and flair - cafe chearful and agreable ; — all Duth tiles , which look cooling. —You will fee an elegant fmall Chinefe room , in which is a tine picture of the late Elector, — Some remarkable Drefdcn China , reprefenting a Stag hunt. Up flairs, a Chinefe room, prints on fatting a rich effeft ! — A blue room very noble , all gold and ( 8a ) and glafs. — The whole houfe ornamented witV painting?, fculptures , &c. relative to Falconing, In the Garden is a curious chapel, made with all forts of shells; — as ate the candlesticks , and moft kind of figures. — Some fine paintings on the roof by Damari. Having , I hope , been well entertained at thefe two feats , I mud put you on your road to Bonn ; the approach to which is agreable, as the town looks well , and the fcveral gardens under the ramparts very plcafing. -—• The fine hills to the left! BONN, A pretty well-built town; — fome tolerable ftreets. — Market-place large.— Town-houfe at the end; — go to an inn kept by Caiglcmcn. P A I< A C E of the Elector , Is well worthy your attention for its immenfe front; — fpacious apartments; — xiehnefs and taftc of furniture. The galleries are grand. — The halls noble , having galleries round them. The ftair-cafe handfome ; — a good library.— Cabinet of natural curiofities , only in its infancy. You muft particularly, admire the Bate Bedchamber; — the furniture and ornaments of which are aftonishing ; — richnefs of gold embroidery I — The pillars and fine oruamenul wreaths of flowers' C 83 ) frets round them, carved, and cold ■ light as lace ; — flowers in the hands of Cupids! A. curious cabinet, with the Virgin and Child. — Frames to the windows, beyond description , elegant; — the views from them , very fine.— A very hand fome Chapel, richly ornamented with a gold and filver altar; — fine carved images round. — Mutick gallery , large and commodious. Some fine marble fculpture in a gallery or room for cards, &c. The cielings in general rich; — tapeftry fine, both of gobelins and country; particularly two views of Venice. — Quantity of taffety. — Tables inlaid of various compofition. —- Chinefe room ; — pictures of views of the Rhine. — The floor cedar , &cl and all differently laid. — A curious clock, bull, &c , —mufkk foft and fine. — Orange trees to the garden , numerous and fine. — In one of the chapels are depofited the bones of St. Felicitas , adorned with rich precious fto-nes, fine lace , &c. -— A curious chair for fitting or praying. — Eight exceeding elegant cabinets;—-different coloured-furniture , and a fireplace to each. PUPPLESDORF, Through an avenue of trees, about half a mile from the Palace , at the end of the garden, is a «ompleat bit of Architecture. —The Building is fquare, fqoare , on each fide wings , that forms a circus with colonnades withijh -~ The appartments are good and well calculated for the retreat of the Elector. — The faloon is handfome. — One of the largeft and beft grottos to be feen.— Cafca-de , on each fide , from the mouths of birds and bcafts, has a pretty effeft. ---Stream from iVey-tuntj&c. —A curious chandelier , and benches, of shells. — pretty views of a Convent on a hill, alfo of the Seven mountains, Rhine &c. The gardens agreable.— Shady arbour and fmall, Jet d'Eaux , furround a large one , which throws the water hundred and fifty feet high. JOYS LE DUG , . A bout five miles from Boon , would advife you to take an airing to. — It was a hunting feat of the late Elector's, — and though built not a bove twenty years , is from neglect , running to decay. — The rooms arc comfortable and handfome : — The entry grand through a hall , to a noble faloon, with a gallery round,—agreable ftair-cafe on the right, — and on the left a handfome dining room;—in which are fome views of Rome. — Several good chambers , of which there are thirty for beds. — From the top , you have very fine and extenfive views. —There are feven Alices in the wood , which is large. —, This , ( «5 ) This , as well as the other Palace? are itrong proofs of the great tafte in buildings and furniture of the late Elector , which his fucceffor does not feem to enjoy. — On your return to Boon the view of town, Rhine, and country, is very pleafing. Near Boon is a little cabin , or private retreat» by the water-lide , called Vini Domini, — in which there is a table that rifes and falls, and is ferved without attendance. St. REMI, A neat gay. building. —- particularly the altar. — A fine picture of the French King's being con-fecrated by that Saint. — Face finely expreffed » — in the ftyle of Vandyck. Having , I hope , been well amufed at this Place , by the things yon have feen as well as with the politenefs you have received from our Miniftcr, Mr. Crejfener, whom you should vifit on your arrival , and if pofiible procure a letter to him; as his civilities , and a&s of Jcindnefs , to ftrangers , are very great, and as he is a very fenfible intelligent gentleman , and of whom yoa mult procure a pafs out of Germany into France. — You will think of getting forward to Franck-ft rt, which I would advife you to do by water; unlefs you mean to return this way , — in which cafe, go by land , and come back by water : II But Eut as the Views, and Places, to be feen on the Banks of the Rhine, arc- very fine would, at all events , advife you to hire a yacht for the pur-pofc of afccnding the Rhine, which , though tedious , is entertaining , from the almoil continual changing of the fccne; — The breadth of the Rhine / here , and higher up , is furprifing , when you confidcr the great difiance from the fea , being almoil as wide as at Grave/end, though fome hundred miles from the fea. On leaving Boon you wii! obferve the fine appearance it cuts , from buildings;—fize of palace , &c Pafs by the Seven Mountains , and have the cnriofity to mount the highcft : —1 Pleafant walk thro' vineyards; and from the top a very extenfive and romantic profpecl: ; — pretty views of a Convent ,an Ifland , Boon, Cologne , &c. — You pafs by feveral fmall villages , romanticly fituated in valleys. — Many pieces of ruins , on the banks , particularly one of three caftlcs; the convent and villages; foon after you have palled the Seven Mountains. Near Ranark, a convent St yjppollonaris; — from which is a fine view ; moil agreably fituated on 1. rock , and appofite fine mountains and a village; — hanging woods on the fides; —the hills covered with vines. Linti >a iarSe l0vvn t kuta P00r P*ace ) m a rich valley; — old cafile to the right and left; fine views • ( 87 ) views up and down , particularly to Zingk , to which there is a river and high mountains to the left; —woody hills about Brifac;— noble large houfe and caftle on a hill, — to the left, of the town ; and a pleafant village oppofite. -— The continual winding of the river, affords new ob-jefts.--At an old caftle at Renark, is a moft agreable view up and down the Rhine A N D E R N A C H. About two leagues from which , the ftecple* in the centre , and between mountains, form an agreable view; — the approach noble; — mountains of hanging woods to the right round an Ifland , and a village to the left; amazing to fee focn vineyards on rocks. — This is a large, but ill-built townthe ftreets narrow;— fortifications prefent fine ruins.— On a hili , to the right of the town , is a b>rgc building , late a hunting-feat to the Ele&or of Tre-vc: Near this place is a houfe , which belonged to the Count of Niv'ttdt; but from a notion of its being haunted by the Devil, is going to ruins. In a league , you come to another feat, belonging to him , which'is delightfully fituated. N I v U D T. Is a village, regularly and well built; ~-feveral broad and good ftreets, and inhabited chiefly ( M ) . by Moravians, whofe manufactories are curious, and worth looking into ; — their method of living , and acting , worthy imitation ; — their inlaid work; — engraving on paper, itone , tyc. — drawings with pen , eye. &c. Count Nivudt's houfe and gardens merit observation ; as the houfe is a very handfome building; — large court yard , noble iron gates; — fhbles, kitchen , and other good buildings, round the yard ; — a handfome dining-pnrlour, and room over for bails and mufic; — the flooring remarkable , being of inlaid work. I N G II 0 S C H. Soon after you come to this hunting feat , belonging to the Elector of Treves. — An old building , but pleafantly fituated ; — a delightful room in the centre , up flairs ; — no corners;-—good paintings, of hunting; — the carved ciclings , and ornaments, elegant. About a league on , to the right , is that moft magnificent feat of Schonbruu , to which you wilt f;o , from Ccblenti, to fee. A village on the right > joins to a large caftle with woods behind. — The country having been rather flat, begins to be more hilly , near Coblentz ; — which , from fituation in a fine valley, furrour.dcd by hills, between the Rhine and Mofelle is very fine , the waters of C 890 of different colours. —The caftle o£Ehrenhcitfi:«i on an immcuf'e rock to the left. C O B L E N T Z, A large town ; — one good ftreet , feveral good houfes. — A flying bridge over the Rhine , to the Court; and a handfome bridge over the Mofelle; — well fortified; —handfome commodious quay , on both rivers. SCIIQNBRUN. Situated in a paiic 5 in a flat country , but plenty of corn and fruit , from whence you have a fine view of hills ; — court of Coblent£ and Inghofch. In this palace arc nine rooms in front; — in general fmall; — but very handfome ; — a good ftaircafe ; — grand front; fome tolerable pictures ; — flooring remarkable; — every room different. CASTLE of EHRENBREITSIEN". Crofs the Rhine on the flying bridge , being two large boats with a floor , two rudders, and guided by windlcts; — great order there being conftantly guards; will hold feveral car.i:ges , and above an hnndred pcrfons. The caftle is worthy your attention , not only for the views from it but for its ftrength; feeing a compleat fort 7 and almoft impregnable. — It H 3 " is ( 90 ) is cut out of a rock, and appear? like a nafignif* building. — They always keep a quantity of ito-res. — Obferve the two rivers; — on the left a. rich profpect of vineyards and Cobl&nt^; — the Churtrcux Convent; — the MofdCle and bridge , in front; and on the right, Schonbrun , villages and country; — under you the P A LACE and G A R D E N S~, ■ Which is under the caitie , and where the court is kept ; — it will be- advifeabte for you to be tt the grand Mais , at which are a very capital band, of vocal and mftrumcntal performers. —— The chapel , through fmall , is richly ornamented. ,— |4i,s Highnefs's clofet very elegant. — Altar'handfome; — fee the Eleaor at dinner.— The court arc very polite , particularly to the Englhh r fo that you wi.il fee every tiling with great eafe and fatisfaction. The Palace is a good comfortable building., but! nor very magnificent; — gardens indifferent; — droll, water works at. the entry ; — large building for the oillcicrs of ftate; — a noble liable , as he always has , at lcaft , two hundred and fifty horfes. As you will not be detained long at Cablcnti you wil purfue your courfe up the. Rhine ;---- and, about, a league off, a moft beautiful view of town , caftle , and Chartrcux Convent- behind ; — on the tight and left are - mountains wit vineyard s„ C 9* ) ncyards , and old caftles in ruins , hanging atflMJit over you; particularly a village w:th two ipires, and watch-tower; —'• and two noble ruins, are oppolite to each other; — thefe ruins were occafio-ned by Gujlavus iddolphus. You pafs by Hcfllm Darmjladt, from whence that Prince takes his tide.'— On a mountain behind the town , is a large cattle ; — alfo jufc by it on a hill , a Chateau pleafingly fituated. The Rhine is more beautiful here than below Coblcnt; ; — as the country is not only rom&ft" tic , but more cultivated on each fide. — A fine circle idjitppart/which appears.to be beautifully fituated in the centre ■, — appearance of bri-iges and itceplcs. — A fmall village behind , and the high mountains , have a fine effect. — A league higher, you pafs a Convent of Capuchins, a very large building in a valley , and a fine old caftle' hinging over. — Oh your right the town of Hct{ijS where the territories of the Palatine and Treves meet. About this part are many mines of Hates ; a little higher on the left , a town , and a noble caftle over it. — You next come to Goal , a large Place ; --- to the right , the Prince of Rhinfeldt has a Palace. — On the left, oppofkc to the town f a village , and a erTtlc on a mountain on one fide > above it. Soon after, pafe by tWeffm > an oW fon"v" heauon? ( 90 , fication ; — well furrounded. — Behind which , you ice Caud on the ieft , and the caftle of Pe-fatty in the middle of the Rhine, with the mountains behind , have a pretty effect. — Bacharah on the right , which , through large , is like molt of the towns, narrow and ill-built. — Haifa league after you have left Caub ; the two towns and caftle in the middle, and mountains round them, form a molt delightful afpc6t behind you. — About two leagues above Bzcharah, a very romantic fee no ; — a caftle in ruins on a hanging rock , near which a white church, at the bottom ; — you Will here plainly diftinguish the different colour sinthe w^ter of the Maim «md Rhine. Pafs by the cafcadc between rocks in the middle of the Rhine ; — here is alfo the Rats Tower , famous for its having been built by a Bishop of nfcnt£, to fecure him from the tats which gnawed bim by way of punishin[!; him y for his, having burnt n number of poor pcrfons, who defiled fupport from him ; — and when they were burning , he faid to his courtiers , Don't you hear the rats cry.' — It is faid , he was not fissure from the rats even in this tower. B I N G E N , Is u very large town , and fituated on the Nakcr, over which is a good bridge. - - The country begins to ( 93 ) K> wear a different afped. — The mountains de- crcafc ; — the Rhine increafes in width. Pafs the Chape! of Rosksbadt, on a hill , and Ridcshe.'m on the left; JOHANNESBURG, A very magnificent fea: of the Duke of Fulda's. and fome other good buildings , on the left. Several villages, vineyards , and meadows , bounded by hills and woods. ASFELDT, Is a droll painted houfe , and offices. Pafs by a molt fuperb edifice , called Fefr>eri Vera. — Soon after which , you fee CaJJU on the left, and Ment{ on the right, near which is an extenfive row of trees ; and at the end a plcafant fummer-houfe and garden , where you are , ail at once , furprized with the town. M E N T Z. The buildings of an old caftle and Palace \ % ftatcly effect. — The ftrcets are in general narrow; — the houfes drolly painted , but badly built- IL FAVOR IT A, A little box of the Eie&or's, delightfully fituated. — The gardens are pretty , in which ure feveral fmall buildings, — fountains, — waterworks , — and ftatues ; — not unlike fcenery m C 'M ) \n a play-houfe. — Moft things wear a ftrawbcrry colour ; which was To fashionable that the peo-pl c wore gloves , gowns ,&c of it. The antichamber,— gallery , — affembly-rooms, — Chinefe room , &c. have a very agreable chear-ful look , being well lighted up. From the windows you have a moft plcafing view. — To the right , the Rhinz and Maine meet; oppofite the town o^Hochnu ,a large village. — On the left, the town , caftle , churches , the large bridge of boats , and feveral mills. St. P E T E R S' s. A gay pretty church ; m the altar and painted cieling is worty your obfervation. OLD PALACE, A very habitable building in a large fquare ; m handfome marble door cafe to the audience chamber , fupported by two large marble ftatues. — An elegant glafs cabinet ; — yellow wood, and purple landfcapes. NEW PALACE, Not quite finished , but promifes to furpafs the other in elegance , and nzea of rooms. — The ball-room ornamented with marble.----Audience chamber , handfome. The Anns under canopy compofed of pearls and precious ftoncs \ -— there are feveral other good rooms, Th« ( ft ) The Ridmg-houfe promifcs to be a very good one ; — lofty and light ; — gallery and room at the end. BARON D ' A N V I L L E* S. lie is a great philofophcr , &c. and his cabinet of curiofities is worthy to be fecn ; particularly a curious harpfichord. — There arc four rows of keys which imitate above an hundred different inftrumcnts , and a voice to the higheft perfection ; — it has been the fole fludy of the Baron for many years. — Electrical machine. — Figure of a Capuchin , whofe skin and hair is preferved. —A fine piece of carving , of our Saviour on the crofs. CAT II E D R A L. Two fine altars; — feveral good tombs ; — carving in wood. — Brafs pillars; — curious pulpit , and carving in marble round it; — good picture of the Angel appearing to the Virgin. NOTRE DAME, Famous for the correctnefs of the architecture; — a lively altar; — fome tolerable pictures. Choir yellow and gilt , — fome fine painted glsf-fes behind the glory. After having paft the bridge of boats, and af-cended the hill, you will look back on the Town , Bridge , Chartreux , Convent , &c. which cut a noble appearance. Through ( 9<5 ) Through Hochem , and a very fine country t* F R A N C F O R T , Which is a very large town , one moft noble troad ftreet, feveral good buildings, — particularly a houfe belonging to the Prince of Tour Taxis , and the Inns , to which it is not eafy to get accefs , as their houfes are not open , and they generally judge cn the appearance you make. — You never fee the mai'ter , or miftrefs , who ride about in their carriage.and are great people. — The bnfincfs is carried on by the fervants. — The beft Inns are the King of England, the Emperor , the Red houfe. — There is one quarter of the town ( and a nafty one it is ) inhabited entirely by the Jews , who are fuppofed to be very rich; there are ten or twelve families in one houfe , and fometimes two in a room. — Great confufion of diamonds, plate , old clothes, 3d, —A Magdalen. — Man , Woman , and Boy reading , by Hans Holbein. 4th,— A noble piece of the three Maria and dying Chrift—Battles, by Burgonioni.— A fine Magdalen. 5th,— Rape of Sabincs, by Rubens, finely expreiTcd. 6th,— Herod's cruelty, by Rubens. -— Natural look of Women , particularly of one who looks behind. — Grief , fine. 7th,—A good Cupid. TVcuverman —' Girardow. — A Boy's face , by Carlo Dolci; — obferve the hair , and great fweetnefe of Countenance. — A good Vandtrveldt. Trcafurc , very rich ; — curious gold and fil-ver ornaments ,&c. fill three or four rooms. Library handfome. — Two galleries. Cabinet of natural curiofities , confifts of four rooms wrell furnished. Opera Houfe , fuperb , rich , and gay, built after that at Madrid. They live here in the winter, and in the fum-mer , at the different Chateaus , which are very pretty , and worthy to be fcen ; — they are very polite to ftrangcrs. — Plcafant views from the ramparts, which is'an agreable-walk neatnefs of fortrefs. — Cuftom houfe , Exchange and Lottery-office , very good buildings. * JESUITS, C ten ) JESUITS, Have a moll pleafing church; — very lively » rich, and grand; — groat quantity of fine marble ; — and , on each fide , three hr.ndfome marble altars , and little hi [lories "over fome very good piaures ; — the altar is fuperb. — Pulpit droll, as there is no appearance of a way up. — Thro' a fine avenue to the Elector's fummcr retreat at S C II W E R T Z I N G E N. Good habitable houfe with two large wings ; — on one fide for balls , cards, &c. on the other a play houfe , orangery , &c. in which is a curious collection of plants. — In the gardens many fine ftatues, particularly two Stags with dogs, >~i The walks pretty , and in the English tafte. w A very elegant temple, m A menagerie for birds, &c. worth feeing. BRUSC H A L , From whence you go through a wood and fine fruitful country , to a noble terrace , to Brufchal, from which you fee that Bishop's Chateau. ^ Fin^ meadows and woods, bounded by hills and Aljacs. The entrance to Brufchal very lively. >-« Palace elegant on the right; w large gardens,^ One ftreet r I 3 wide ( raa ) wide, uniform , and wcilbLuit. ^ Great manufactory here. CALSROU H E. Euther that noble foreit, which , from the road and trees , is more like a park.t-i The fpire of the Palace is to be feen miles off. h It is a moft pleafing place , both from the houfe and gardens, in which are curious plants and fine fruits, particularly-^Ncr/ctf/z. m The building is of an uncommon shape, and is rather pleafing to the eye. t-i Good ftatues round the top. The offices form a circus. M Town con lifts of one wide ftreet, houfes uniform , and remarkably low. Several manufactories of ftcel wares , fhufF-boxes, &c. The figns are of iron, and curiouily worked , and gilt. Pafs through a large wood belonging to the Margrave of Baden Budcn.1-4 On your right, fine woody hills that run to Switzerland, and on the left, thofe from Cologne to Languedoc* R A S T A D T , Belongs to the above Margrave , where he has 3 moft fuperb palace ;'w light and pretty piece of architecture, beyond any thing of the kind on the road, m Oppofitc to it is cue large wide itret* *■* The gardens are very good, Between ( 103 ) Between Stdhoven and Bifchoffcn you will fee the fteeple of the church at S/rasluirg. h Fine arid fruitful country, hh From A"e/ the Inteudants ; the Prince Darmftadt's. m Town and Military fiofpitals ; w the Caserne, m Orpheljns , &c. The fuburbs very pretty , being interwoven with woods and water , and thevvalk very agreable. —> The parade , a noble large fpot. m They are a very chcarful polite people ; nh the females have a particular way of drefiing the hair in variety of forms ; kh hanging, to the ground. *-> Contrive to be there on a Sunday, or holiday, to fee their drefs and amufements. C A T II E D R A L. A very large building , but remarkable for its lightnefs and beauty; — the altar pretty painted windows, make an agreable gloom ; m from the top yon have a moft extenfive view all rou.d, and ( io4 ) •nd of the town; you muft obferve the elegance of the fpire, and the curious iturcafc , to the top of it ; »-< the remarkable clock muft be feen; mwhere the cock crows, i-h lions roar apoftles ftrike the hour, and angels the quarters; nh there is alfo fome very fine tapeftry , reprefen-ting the hiftory of the Virgin Mary. N E W C II U R C II. A handfome building, and feveral pretty good pictures. Here you muft purchafe , or hire , a carriage . for your journey thro' France ; and get a book of the poft-roads , and the Nouvcau Voyage de France. Soon after you have left the town , in afeen-ding the hill , you have a fine view of the town . churches , &c. with the mountains of wood behind, m This is a moft fruitful country. S A V E R N E. When you come near it , on the left, fine woody mountains; and three old caftles on the top. m This town is large , and fituated on a hilly fpot. hi The Bishop of Strasburg has a palace here , which, as well as the gardens, are worth looking into, m On the right a large Convent rent for Ladies, h Remarkable road in afecn-dbjg the mountain; w a league from which you have a moft extenlive view of Strasburg, &c. h delightful country round the pretty little ftrong town of Phatibourg. A. bout Biamont, the country not fo fruitful. LU NEVILLE; Near which are feveral old Chattaus which belonged to the King of Poland, who-lived and died here, t-n A fine houfe to the right, h-i This town prettily fituated. Many large and good ftrcets and buildings furrounded by gardens and woods; tH alfo fcveral handfome fquares, fountains. &c. The palace and gardens, worthy your observation ; tho' running to decay. 1-1 The remains of fine walks, batons jet d'eaux , ftatues , cafcades , pa-villions , &c. Two fronts to the palace , very handfome; M three ;trchcs thro' the fpacious apartments. C A T H ED R A L. Remarkable for the beauty , and architecture of Portal; 1-1 finely ornamened wdth ftatues, tve* This town much frequented by Invalids, >who receive great benefit from the air and climate. Going 'C i06 ) Going out from the top of the hill, a fine -view of the town , cathedral , and palace. St. NICHOLAS. A town , very agreably fituated. hh An elegant bridge , with a delicate obelik , erected to the memory of the King <.f Poland, who was much beloved in this part of the country. * The cathedral is reckoned a fine piece of architecture, Soon after you leave St. Nicholas , you fee Nancy. c-The road exceeding pleafant by the fide of the river Mayr , to that town.w Several convents , country-houfes, and villages intermixed «, and are hanging over it. NANCY. The approach grand, m The Fauxbourgs long . ftraight, and extenfive. w Trees on each fide , and feveral good buildings. *-< Go to the three Dames de France. At the entrance is the chapel , where the French Queen's heart is interred ; and alfo her Father , the King of Poland, and Queen , buried here. mvA fine monument to her memory ; ^ cx-prefiion of the angel pointing to heaven. ^ Twro fine pieces offculpture , reprefenting Charity and Religion; m at the-altar, our Saviour and Aportles, in ( i«7 ) in (liver; w a pretty little chapel, with a gallery round it. There is alfo in this part of the town a large building for mifiionarics; and good gardens. The town very large , and fome exceeding good ftreets, with handfome buildings ; but the moft extraordinary coup d'cel! is from Place Royak and the parade , on which is the town-houfe , in the centre;^ and oppofite is a grand gateway , that leads to a row of trees and fine buildings , in a fquare , to the Governor's houfe , which you should fee. m The faloon and appsrtments are handfomc ; hh garden fmall; M a fine view from the balcony. TOWN-HOUSE. A pretty library; m good appartements , and fine view , from the balcony , of the environs: m Statue of Louis XV. and figures round , exceeding fine. »-< The two gates , and long ftreet, a fine effect ; being above a mile in length , and the King's ftatue in the centre. The three iron arches, with emblematical figures at the corners, very curious and elegant; m trees behind; a pretty effect. CORDELIERS. ( ioS ) CORDELIERS. There is a chapel , or rather maufoleum , m very handfome and neat ; of marble , and is the burying place for many Princes of Lor rain ; m the architecture and pillars, light and regular. -. P R I M I T I A L E. Over the altar is a King's body, in a glafs coffin ,'fupported by two angels. T O U L, Soon after you leave this town , you fee Toul; h crofs the Mofclle to it, over a handfome bridge. The front of the cathedral worthy your obfer-vation ; hh feveral fine ftatues, and curious branch for candles. The country about two leagues farther more confined , and fecms inclofcd by hills , which has a romantic appearance ; *-* a large old caftle ; n about a league from Void, a beautiful country i at the end of which a large houfe , furrounded with hills and wood. The country thro' this place moft pleafing and enchanting , to Bar le Due, which is a large place, divided into the old and ucw towns, and very ro-manticly fituated; w pleafant road and country to \TTRY ( I09 ) VITRY LE FRANQOIS; Being an avenue of trees, and fine champagne country, m A large town ; m cathedral handfome , and has a very uncommon front. * Agreable country to CHAUSSES, About a league from PI try, is a very extcnfive and fine open country , particularly on a bill, out of ChauJJe's, which affords a moft beautiful prof-peel: to the left, of villages , water, wroods , and good houfes. Convents in as fine a valley as can. be imagined., and , in front , C H A L 0 N S. 1 The fpires of the churches, h To the left of the gate is a good walk , called the Jard, and is between fine trees , on the banks of the river Marn, leading to the Bishop's houfe , which is much admired for the beauty of the gardens and canals; m The gate a light and pretty piece of architecture. — The Intendant's houfe has a pretty effect:. CATHEDRA L. Neat choir, iron-gates, painted glafs , pretty look thro' the gates ; H it is a good building , but an indifferent front. ^ K Fiae (no) Jpne open hilly country; — villages on, the roaci to. PETIT LOGES. Woody hills, and laigc building*, on the left, about half way to Rhtimi;— alfo a fine houfe, garden, water,. &c. on the right; within a league from whence you fee the ftecples peeping tover the hills, and a very fine country on the left. RHEIMS. Go to the Wind-mill. — This town is large, and many good directs , but not well built; — there is a famous walk , with the river at tlie bottom , and agreably shaded with fine trees;: — there are four gates , of Ceres; Venus , Bacchus , and Mars; near the lair. , at the top of this walk are the remains of Roman antiquities ; fome curious pillars and doors , but now partly clofed up; —Place Louis XV is a neat pretty fquare;— his figure in the middle , with two fine ftatues , &c. at his feet.. CATHEDRAL, Which is indeed a, noble building -y — the front furprifing ; three large porticoes; the lightnefs of pillars within , and fine painted windows [ — elegant choir, furrounded with iron gates, — neat little chapels, — number of ftatues round the C in ) the outfit , rcprefcniing the hiftory of the Old and New Tcfamiait , d>c. The King of France were formerly anointed here.— Angel in form of a dove defcends from heaven , with a cup of oil in his bill , which he oilers to Sr. Remi, to confecrate Louis the young. — Behind the aitar , in a rich ornamented casket, arc depofitcd feveral curiofities ufed at the ceremony of confecrating the Kings , &c. St. Nl'CAISSE. The front light, and wide; a pretty portal;-— altar handfome , iron-gates round; curious painted windows., particularly a rofe , and curious flowers carved on pillars ; — marble pavement of four colours. Some tolerable painting. — Two tombs of General Scovin, Sts. NicaiJJe and Pricioirc \ ---pieces of autiquity ;--a largo pillar On OUt- fide , which shakes on ringing a dumb bell, in a very extraordinary manner. St. R E M I. A fine picture of out Saviour's' being t2ken from the crofs , by Paul Vcroncfe; — the old man's head and drapery fine.— A Tomb wherein is the St. .impoulle, &c. very rich and handfome. — An old painting of the coronation of ' K 2 the ("ft) the Kings of France ; — the branch for candles very curious ; as alfo a Hand. — Some remarkable pavements, in the true mofaic ftile, by the Romans. — Near the Univcrfity , arc two modern pillars creeled , where an old gate ftood ;. peace being made there between that town and the Romans.— The town airy , and fome good buildings;— ramparts very pleafant.— Grand triumphal arch , near the gate of Mars.*-* Three Arcades of the Corinthiam order; in one is Rnmulus and Remus, with the wolf, shepherd , &c.— In another , Ltla embraced by Jupiter, the third , a woman with plenty ; four children reprcfent the Seafous , and twelve others the Months; thcic are fuppofed to be done in honor of Julius C&far. — On the outQde of the wall are fix pilla rs, and two gate-ways. On leaving Rhcims, you crofs the river Layne at Berri au bac. This river divides Champagne from Picariy, and falls into the Seine, at or near Paris. — Agreable country about this town. — About four miles beyond Carbcry ; a fine extenfive view of country round. — You fee Rhcims ; — fine valley , fome villages , and good houfes to the left. — About two leagues from Lain, you fee that town on an immenfc mountain in the middle of a plain , which , on approaching , is very grand iadeed. —• An old ruinated parochial building, looks ( IT.? ) locks noble. —- The town makes a romantic appearance on fuch a mountain. — between Laon and La Fcrrc, you pafs thro1 a moft rural country. — The town and church of St. Quintin , on a riling ground , looks very pretty and piciturefque the country not pleafing , till near Cambray, the churches of which you fee on a hill, at the end of an avenue from Bon Avis. — Pretty country to the left of Bin a Blanch , to Douay , which looks large and handfome. — Throuh Lens > which is a large town , and fuffered much by wars. — Country about Bahunc, to the r ght , fine. Thro' Air to St. Omcrs, the town , churches, and country about, look very fine and picture fque. Having brought you back again to St. Omcrs, I intiit beg leave to wish you a good journey to Calais, from whence you may return to England, after , I hope , having had an agreeable Tour of about fix weeks. FINIS, CONTENTS. Page 4 Dunkirk , 6 Oftend, 7 Bruges, 8 Ghent, ! 9 Antwerp , 16 Mechlin, 34 Arclrcs , 88 Beth une, 40 Lijle, 41 Douay, 46 Cambray, 47 Valentienne , 48 ib. Brujjels, 49 Turvuran, 54 hGiivain, 56 Tirlemont, ib. 5t. Trond, 57 Liege, ilv » Chaud Fountaine, Spa, Coo, Stavelot, /a Chapelle y Aix, Bourfet, Maejlricht, Diiffildorf, Cologne , Bruhl, Falkon Lujl y Bonn. Piipplefdorfy Joye le Due v Andernach > Nlvudt, Jnghofch, Coblenii, Sclionbrun , Gr/r/e 0/ Ehrenbrhfieti f Eingen , Johannesburgy Asfkldt Menti, 93 .11 favorita, ib. Francfort, 96 Darmftadt, 97 Manheim, 9? Schw ending hen 5 101 Brufchal, ib. Calsrouhe, 102 Raftadt, ib. Strasburg, 103 Saverne , 104 Luneville, 105 St. Nicholas, 106 Nancy, ib. 103 Fifrv /e Francois, 109 ChauJJes, ib. Chalons, ib. Petit Loges, 110 Rhcims, ib. Air, Qmers* ib. 3