A R R A T I V of TJIZ BRITISH EMBASSY CHINA, IN THE YEARS 1792, 1793) AND *794- NARRATIVE OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY CHINA. IN THE YEARS I792, 1793, AND I794; CONTAINING THE VARIOUS CIRCUMSTANCES op the EMBASSY, WITH ACCOUNTS OF CUSTOMS and MANNERS of the CHINESE; AND A DE5CR1FT10N OP THE country, towns, cities, Ice. &c. By M N E A S ANDERSON, THEN IN THE SERVICE OF HIS EXCELLENCY EARL MACARTNEY, K. B. AMBASSADOR FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN TO THE EMPEROR OF CHINA. london: Printed for J. DEBRETT, opposite Burlington-House, Piccadilly. PREFACE. embafly to China was a new event in the diplomatic hiftory of this country, and very naturally excited a general curiofity concerning it: for, without considering the great commercial objects it had in view, the univerfal ignorance which prevailed refpecting the interior parts of that empire, and the confequent novelty which mult be produced by any authentic hiitory of it, would irrefiftibly attract the attention of our enlightened country, to the only civilifed nation in the world, whofc jealous laws forbid the intrufion of any other people. It is not my defign to examine thofe writers who have preceded me on the fubject. of China : it is not for me to point out their contradictions, or difplay their fabulous interpo- interpolations—my only bufinefs is to relate what I faw in the courfe of this embafly, in every part of which I had the honour to attend Lord Macartney, who was appointed to be the reprefentative of his Britannic Majefty at the Court of Pckin. The difadvantages which opprefs the trade of European countries with China are well known, and to remove them in behalf of our own, was an object well worthy the attentive wifdom of our government. It was not, however, a mere fpeculative project; as a fufficient intimation had been made to the Court of London, that an Ambaflador from thence would be gracioufly received by the Emperor of China: miniiters, therefore, a&ed with a itrict political attention to the commercial interests of this country, by preparing an embafly, fuited to the dignity of the Court of Great Britain, and fitted out in a manner to attract the attention of the Chinefe people, as well as to command the refpect, and fecure the regard of the Court of Pekin. The Honourable Colonel Cathcart was, accordingly, invented, in the year 1788, with the important character of minifter from this country to the Empire of China; a man whofe fuperior talents, amiable manners, fhrewd fagacity and active perfeverance qualified him, in a pre-eminent degree, to forward the important objects of his million : but the the premature death of that able, excellent, and accomplished man, which happened on his voyage, thwarted the progrefs of the embafly he was appointed to conduct; and as no perfon had been named in the King's com-miflion,, to fucceed to his diplomatic office, if he mould not reach the place of his deltination, that embafly died with him ; and may be faid to have been buried on the diftant fhore where his allies repofe. The wife attentions of government were not, however, to be turned afide from fuch an important, national object as a commercial alliance between the Courts of London and Pekin: the character of Ambaflador to China was accordingly revived, with additional fplendor, in the perfon of Earl Macartney ; and an embafly was re-appointed in fuch a manner as became the empire it was to repre-fent—and the empire before which it was to appear. It is impoflible to fpeak in higher terms of the anxious care and liberal attention of government to this diplomatic million than it deferves. The fuperior talents which direct the board of controul, and the commercial fpirit which animates the direction of the Eafl India Company, combined to form thofe arrangements which certainly deferved fuccefs, if they did not obtain it. No narrow, or fordid views, mingled with the preparations of it: the means of exterior figure, and the allurements of i national ( vili ) national productions, in every branch of art, fcience, and manufacture, were amply fupplied ; and though the embafly has failed in its object, its failure cannot be attributed to thofe who framed and fafhioned it in this country, and fet it forward to its diftant deltination. I have accurately related every circumftance that came under my obfervation, with many occurrences which I I heard from thofe, whofe authority it would be impertinence, to fay no worfe, in me to refill. My deflgn is to attempt no more than I am qualified to fulfil ; and this volume will be more particularly found to contain a faithful account of the Britifh embafly, with its progrefs through China, from the time that the Lion man of war, and the Hindoftan Eaft-India Company's fhip, anchored before Mettow, in the Yellow fea, to its arrival at Canton. This Narrative is faithfully given according to the beft of my abilities, and from the raoft accurate obfer-vations in my power to make, during the journey of the embafly by land, or its voyages by water, or its temporary refidence in Pekin and Tartary. Others, who poffefs a brilliant fancy, or a glowing imagination, might give to their defcription of the fcenes through which this volume will conduct the reader, thofe bright colours which we fee on the Chinefe manufac* manufactures that are imported into this country, to decorate the apartments of elegant opulence: but my principal object, is to give a ftrong and accurate out-line of the picture ; and I would rather be accufed of the dulnefs and tautology of truth, than rifque a fufpicion that I had facrificed to a creative imagination. Indeed, in a journey, or a voyage, or by whatever name it may be dif-tinguilhed, of upwards of two thoufand miles, fome repetition mull be expected and forgiven, not only from a fimilitude of objedls, but from the impoflibility of dif-playing, by literal defcription, thofe differences between them, which, though evident to the eye, cannot be transferred to the page. Cities, towns and villages, mountains and rocks, rivers, canals and lakes, Sec. &c. will often* times admit of nothing more than general denominations. The regularity, alfo, with which the Britifh embafly was conducted in its progrefs through China, will give an occasional uniformity to the narration, that may fome-times check the intereft which, I trull:, it will be generally found to excite : but I beg leave to afliire the reader that, if unfortunately he fhould not be always amufed by this work, he will never be intentionally deceived ; and the merit of faithful reprefentation is all I have to claim, and all I wifh to receive. I have preceded the hiflory of the journey through China with an account of the voyage to it; and have confequently mentioned places which have already been b defcribed ( * ) defcribed by others, and are to be found in the volumes of modern geography ; but I was advifed by thofe, on whofe judgment I could very much rely, to give this introductory part of it, according to my own knowledge, and from the rcfult of my own obferva-tion. I have alio added the journal of the Lion and the Hindoftan from Chufan to Canton, as it contains much curious and ufeful information relative to the navigation of a long range of the coafts of China not generally known, and may be, therefore, important to the future voyager of the feas that walli them. The river of Canton is fo well known, that I have comprelTed my account of it into a very fmall compafs. The homeward-bound voyage, alfo, which was accompanied with no circum-itance worthy of particular attention, is contained in a few pages. To thefe I have added a fhort gloflary of fuch Chinefe words and expreffibns, as I had myfelf acquired, and no more. As to the names of cities, villages, &c. I have given the orthography according to their founds, and as I was inftructed by thofe natives, whofe knowledge of the Englifh language was fufficient to aflift me. As ( « ) I mall offer no apology to my country for publishing the journal of a voyage, which had excited fuch uni-verfal attention. If this volume contains a faithful narrative of the public tranfactions of the late embaffy to China, with fuch an account of the country and its inhabitants, as the circumitances of it, and mode of travelling through it, would allow ; an apology muft be confi-dered as infulting the public, to whom the work is pre-fented : and, if it iliould be found to contain nothing that can intereil: or amufe the public, the book itfelf will be an infult, and beyond the reach of apology. But I indulge myfelf in better expectations ; nor am I without a flattering hope, that this volume contains information which will gratify reafonable curiofity, and enlarge the knowledge of a country fo little known to the other nations of the globe. Wejlminjler, Marpam-Jlreet^ April i, 1795. LIST LIST or the GENTLEMEN WHO COMPOSED THE RETINUE OF EARL MACARTNEY. SlR George Staunton, Bart. Secretary to the Embaiiy; Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Commandant of the AmbaiTacior^s Guard; Lieutenant H, W. Parifh, of the Royal Artillery; Lieutenant J. Crewe; Mr. Achefon Maxwell, Secretarie8 to thc Ambaffador; Mr. Edward Winder, J Mr. Baring, Affirmant Secretary, outward bound; Son of Sir Francis Baring, Bart. Dr. Gillan, Phyflcian and Philofopher to the Embafly Dr. Scott, Surgeon and Phyflcian to the Embafly; Mr. Barrow, Comptroller of the Houfehold; Dr. Dinwiddie, Mechanift, Conductor of mathematical and aftrono* mical prefents; Mailer George Staunton, Son of Sir George Staunton, Bart. Mr. Thomas Hickcy, Portrait painter; Mr. Alexander, Draftfman; Mr. Hutner, Preceptor to Mailer Staunton ; Mr. Plumb, Interpreter. CommiJJioners fent by the Eajl India. Company n Canton, to notfy the intendedVEm bajjy of Ear I Macartney* Meflrs. Jackfon, Irwine, and Brcwn, 4> jF/Zy His Exccllencf 's Servants, 8? 240 c h a. chap. xxiv. The voyage continued.—Defcription of a curious mountain.—Various circumfiances of the river.—Arrive at the city of Tuyng-yau-yean.— Pafs numerous villages, towns, &c.—Anchor bejore the city oj Tfyntian.—Arrive at Canton.—Formalities on the occafion, &c. P- 247 chap. xxv. Some account of Canton.—Proceed from thence to Wampoa, and Ma-coa ; brief account of them.—Char a Her of the mandarin Van-Tadge-In.—Circumfiances relative to the refidence of the embajfy at Macao. —Sail for England, < — - p. 256 supplementary chapter. Brief account of the paQage from Hoang-tchew to Chufan, by Captain Mackintofi), &c.—Various cufioms of the Chinefe, &c.—Miscellaneous articles, &c. — p. 269 Accout.t of the tranfatlions of the fquadron during the abfence of the embajfy. Cloffary of Chinefe words. a n a r- NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO AND FROM CHINAy Wc. »c. CHAP. I. From England to Batavia. Every nccefTary arrangement having been made, the Right Hon. 1791. Earl Macartney, with his whole fuite, went, from the Point at Portf- Friday mouth, in feveral barges, on board the Lion man of war, then lying ScPt,ai at Spithead. Hoiftcd in the launch—fired the fignal gun for all the officers and Sunday 2 men on more to repair on board. At eleven A. M. a fignal was made for the Hindoftan and the Jack- Tuefday all to weigh: the Alfred and Orion of feventy-four guns weighed at the fame time j and, at five o'clock in the afternoon, we took our final departure from Spithead. We got into Torbay, where we found the Hannibal and Niger men Saturday of war. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with Dr. Gillan, went afliore, and penetrated into the country as far as Exeter; from whence they returned the next day. Ji Aleak '79a* Wednefday, Sunday 30. ( * ) A leak was repaired that had fprung in the fide of the Lion, We made land at an early hour of this morning; and at eight Oftober xo. law the Deferter's Ifland at the difrancc of about four leagues; and the ifland of Porto Santo at the diftance of about three leagues. Thefe iflands are fubject to the crown of Portugal, and form a part of the Madeiras : the latter of them is chiefly appropriated as a place of exile for thofe who commit any petty depredations on the ifland of Madeira. It is about fifteen miles in circumference, and very mountainous : it contains no harbours ; but has a large bay wherein lhips may be tolerably fecure, except when the wind blows from the fouth-weft; and is frequented by Indiamen outward and homeward bound. The ifland produces corn, but in no great quantity; it has alfo paf-turage for cattle j and its thickets furnilh fheltcr for wild boars. The inhabitants, who are few in number, are fubjecl: to the government of Madeira. The Defart, or Deferter's Ifland, is an inconfiderable barren rock, and ferves alfo as a prifon for criminals, who are there obliged to pay the penance of their offences by various kinds of labour. Thurfdayii. We arrived in Funchal Bay, in the ifland of Madeira, and anchored in forty-four fathom water; the town of Funchal being to the N. N. E. about a mile. Friday 12. After break fall, Lieutenant Campbell was fent on more to tht governor of the Madeiras, to notify the arrival of Lord Macartney ; and, on the return of that officer, the Lion faluted the garrifon with thirteen o-uns, which was immediately returned. The Britilli Conful then came on board, attended by feveral Englifli gentlemen, among whom were the moil refpecfable merchants of the place, to pay their refpeds to the Ambaflador, and to invite him afliore. His Lordlhip having accepted of the invitation, the fhip's company were ordered to get themfelves clean drelfed in white jackets and trowfers as preparatory for manning the yards : and, as I publifh this Narrative, not merely for the ufe of feamen, but for the entertainment, ( 3 ) merit, and, as I hope, for the information of thofe who know nothing w« of maritime life, I ihall endeavour to explain what is underftood by oftober. manning the yards; a ceremonial never obferved but on particular occasions, as well as in honour of diftinguiihed characters, and has not only a very peculiar, but, in fome degree, a very beautiful effect. The fhip's company being all equipped in their beft cloathing, the failors fland upright on the yard-arms, as clofe to each other as the fituation will admit, with their hands clafped together, and their arms extended; ropes being drawn acrofs, to prevent them from falling. In this curious manner the whole yards of the fhip are filled with men up to the main-top-gallant royal. In this polition the fhip's company remained, till Lord Macartney had landed on the ifland. On this occafion the matroffes were drawn up under arms on the larboard fide of the quarter-deck, and the marines on the (larboard fide, lining both fides of the deck, as far as the accommodation ladder. The troops faluted his Lordfhip as he paffed from the cabin, and the band of mufic continued playing till he had left the fhip. Lord Macartney and Sir Erafmus Gower proceeded in one barge, and the gentlemen of the fuite followed in another. The Lion then fired a falute of fifteen guns, which was anfwered by the fame number from the fort on lliore. On this occafion every mark of mutual refpect was paid, while the Governor of Madeira, with the Britifh Conful and the principal inhabitants, were ready at the landing-place to welcome the Ambaffador on his arrival at the ifland. I went on fhore this morning after breakfafl, with feveral of the Saturday i midfhipmen, and landed at Brazen-head rock. Oppofite to this landing-place ftands a rock called the Loo, in which there is a pretty flrong fort, furrounded with a rampart, mounted with feveral pieces of cannon, and garrifoned with foldiers. This rock is in the form of a pillar, being very high, perpendicular on all fides, and commands the bay: the only entrance to the fort is by a narrow flight of fleps hewn out of the rock, and properly guarded. It is fituated about three quarters of B 2 a mile 179*** a mile from the fhore, and in water of near forty fathom, fo thafe oaobcr, there can be no communication with the land but by means of boats. The landing-place of the ifland is to the north-well: of the Loo rock,, and from the depth of the fea, which, at the water's edge, is fifteen fathom, the violence of the furf and the rocky fhore, is extremely dangerous. Streps are formed in the rock to afcend to the top of it, which communicate with the road to Funchal, the principal town of the ifland. This road is very rough and narrow, being no more than four feet, and an half in breadth, with a low wall on either fide. It firfl leads to an high afcent, on each fide of which are a few unenviable dwellings of the lower clafs of inhabitants. On the fucceeding declivity is-a fmall church, in the front of which there is an altar and a crofs, which is fuppofed to poffefs fome healing powers of peculiar efficacy, as we faw feveral poor wretches afflicted with various difeafes, lying naked there, and expofing their bodies covered with fores and blotches. The church has fo little the appearance of any thing like a place dedicated to the worfhip of God, that, till I perceived the crofs, which was its diftinguifhing decoration, it appeared to me to be a barn or liable ; at the fame time I was informed, that the inflde of it was very properly fitted up and furnilhed for the fticred purpofe to which it was dedicated. Its fituation is beautiful beyond defcription : it flands in a very elevated pofition, commands a very grand and extenfive view of the fea, with Porto Santo and the Deferter's Ifland ; overlooking, at the fame time, the charming vineyards in its own immediate vicinity.. Many delightful gardens are fcen on either fide of the road, abounding in delicious fruits; and, on the northern fide of it, the vineyards ftretchaway to the extremity of the rock, which poffefles a perpend^ cular height of feveral hundred-feet above the fea. About half a mile beyond the church is the entrance to the town of Funchal, through a gate, from whence a mean, dirty, narrow ftrect leads to a public walk difpofed in the form of a garden, which has a principal ■ principal alley or avenue in the center, with orange and other trees on 179" either fide of it, and lamps placed between them: the whole is oaober. terminated by the cathedral church, a large Gothic building, which is fitted up in a very fuitable manner for the purpofes of that religion to which it is confecrated. I went after breakfaft to the houfe of the Bntiih Conful, which is in Monday 1 c> the neighbourhood of the cathedral; and faw Lord Macartney, attended by his whole fuite, among whom was the Hon. Mr. Weft, brother to the Earl of De Lawarr, drefTed in the uniform of the embafly, walk in proceflion to vifit the Governor of the ifland; who received the Ambaflador with every mark of attention and refpect, and requested his company to dinner on the fucceeding day. His Lordfhip thea-returned to the ConfuPs in the fame order and formality. As in the afternoon of this day I completed my view of this place,. I fhall here finifh my account of it.. Madeira is extremely mountainous, and prefents a moft beautifuf object from the bay. It lies between thirty-two and thirty-three degrees of north latitude, and between eighteen and nineteen degrees of weft longitude from London. Its length is feventy-five miles, and its breadth thirty. In the center of the fouthern fide of the ifland, at a fmall diflance from the fea, and on the firfl: rife of an amphitheatre of hillsr is the town, of Funchal : its population is very confi-derable, and it contains feveral churches, as well as monafleries of both fexes, of the different orders of the church of Rome: the houfes are built of flone, and the greater part of them are covered, with white plafler, and generally roofed with tiles: the flreets are very narrow, ill paved, and dirty, having no foot-path for paifengers, with all the inconvenience arifing from unequal ground and continual, declivity. Except the refidence of the Governor, and of the Bri-tifli Conful, and the houfes of fome principal merchants, glafs is an. article of very rare ufe : the houfes. are in general about three ftories high, with lattice windows, and balconies in the front, where the female inhabitants are continually feen to anaufe themielves in obferv--I* ^ ( 6 ) ing what happens in the itreets, or converting with thofe who arc palling along. There arc neither courts, fquares, or principal ftreets in this town; the whole place compofing a fcene of architectural deformity. The cuftom-houfe, which is on the fea fide, is furrounded by a rampart mounted with cannon, and contains barracks for foldiers. The town is about three miles in length, and one in breadth. Its inhabitants confift of Portuguefe, mulattoes, negroes, and a few Eng-liili, who refide there for the purpofes of commerce. The wine of this ifland, fo well known for its cordial and peculiar qualities, is the great object of its trade, and the principal fource of its riches. The drefs of the poorer fort of people is a kind of cap, made of cloth, which they wear inftead of an hat, a fhort jacket, and clumfy troufers, with a kind of boots of coarfe undreffed leather; though many of the lower clafs are feen almofl naked, and manifeft no common appearance of diftrefs and mifery. The religion is catholic, and the clergy poffefs the fame power as in the mother country. The natives are of a very courteous difpofition, and treat ftrangers with all the punctilio of refpect and politenefs. No carriages are kept in this ifland, but by the Governor and the Britifh Conful: the fubftitute for them, among the higher order of the inhabitants, is a very fine filk net, of various colours, capable of containing a perfon to fit in it : it is borne by two men, by means of a long pole run through the four corners, which draws the net clofe on each fide like a purfe; a filk curtain is then thrown over the pole, that entirely obfeures the perfon who fits in this curious vehicle, which is the elegant mode of conveyance in vifits of ceremony, and to the occafional entertainments of the place. Thefe, however, are always in private houfes, as there are no theatres, or any places of public entertainment, except the public garden, where there are frequent exhibitions of the moil: brilliant fire-works. There are very few horfes in this ifland; mules and oxen being principally employed both for draught and burden: nor is it eafy to 4 conceive conceive the fagacity and agility of thefe animals in adapting their powers to the inequalities of this very mountainous country. The military eftablifliment of the Madeiras is very limited, and does not con fill: of more than three hundred men. The native militia, however, are numerous, but they are never embodied, except in time of danger and alarm. Thefe foldiers are moft wretchedly clothed ; the regimental confifting of a very coarfe blue jacket, with a veil: and breeches of the fame colour; the whole bound with a coarfe yellow worfted lace, and enlivened with red facing. They wear on their heads a kind of leathern helmet; but the artillery foldiers are dif-tinguifhed by hats: their arms and accoutrements are of the worif. kind, and kept in the worft. order : in ihort, fuch was their appearance, that when fome of our matroffes and light horfemen were permitted to go on more, the inhabitants, from the fuperiority of their appearance, could not be perfuaded but that they were all officers in the Britifh fervice. The town is defended towards the fea, from eafl to weft, by a ftrong wall, mounted with cannon, and a fort at either end. The climate of Madeira is well known for its falubrious influence, as, excepting the month of January, when there are frequent rains, accompanied with violent thunder, it feldom undergoes any change of fcafon. Thofe who have money may purchafe here, as in other places, all the luxuries of life; but they in general bear a very extravagant price, though the firft people live in a ftile of great plenty and elegance. Even the wine, which, as it is the produce of the fpot, might naturally be fuppofed to be purchafed at a reafonable rate, could not be obtained by us for lefs than four millings a bottle. This ifland, however, notwithflanding its mountainous ftate, muft be confidcred, altogether, as a very fertile colony; and, as a picturefque object, nothing can exceed the romantic and beautiful views it contains, and the delightful fpots that are covered with gardens and vineyards. Lord ( s ) *r—--' Lord Macartney, with the principal people of the illand, were very >d 17j*3, , Praya has a good port, and is fcldom without mips • thofe outward November, bound to Guinea or the Eaft-Indies, from England, Holland, and France, frequently touching here for water and refrefhments. While we were rambling about this miferable place, we heard the fignal to repair on board, and, haftening to the fhore, found a boat waiting to receive us, and a crowd of the naked inhabitants (landing there "with their fruits for file.—At noon we left Port Praya. Sunday 18. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we found ourfelves under the Equator, where the burlefque and ridiculous ceremonies frequently allowed by the commanding officers of lhips were completely ob-ferved, by permiilion of Sir Erafmus Gower, to the great entertainment of the fhip's company. At five o'clock in the afternoon, we came to anchor in the Rio Janeiro harbour, in fifteen fathom water. ■ Faffed by this afternoon into the harbour the Hero of London, a South-fea whaler, from the South-feas, bound for London. A great many lhips were at this time at anchor in the river, and, among the reft, was a Portuguefe Eaft-Indiaman homeward bound ; by whom it was intended to have lent letters to England, by way of Lifbon, had not the arrival of the Hero afforded a more ready, as well as more fecure conveyance. The country offers from the river a moft delightful profpect., confifting of a fine range of hills covered with wood, whofe intervening vallies are adorned with ftately villas, affording at once a fcene of elegance, richnefs, and beauty. The cutter was hoifted out, and the firft lieutenant difpatched on fhore, to acquaint the Viceroy with the arrival of the Ambaffador, and to demand the falute; but, as that officer was at his country residence, the ulual formalities were neceffarily fufpended. In December, Saturday i. « ( >7 ) In thc morning of this day, the deputy viceroy came, accompa- 1V9I-nied with guards and attendants, in elegant barges, to wait on Lord December Macartney, to know his intentions, and to acquaint him with the 00 '3* regulations to which all foreigners mud fubmit on landing at Rio Janeiro. But, his Lordfhip having been for fome time afflicted with the gout, and ftill remaining very much indifpofed, Sir George Staunton and Sir Erafmus Gower received the deputy viceroy, who, alter an introductory conference, partook of a cold collation, and returned on fhore. The deputy viceroy, with his attendants, paid a fecond vifit to the TuefJay 4 fhip, and accompanied the general meifage of congratulation from the Viceroy to the Ambaflador, oh his arrival at the Brazils, with an invitation to accept of an houfe for his reiidence, during the time he might find it neceffary to flay there. This obliging propofition was accepted by Lord Macartney; and Sir George Staunton went on fhore to make the neceffary preparations for his reception, as foon as he fhould be fufficiently recovered to quit the fhip. The Viceroy's fecretary, attended by feveral gentlemen, came on Tburfday board the Lion to inquire when the Ambaffador would come on fhore; who was pleafed to appoint the following day at one o'clock, to make his entrance into the city of Rio Janeiro. At noon, Sir Erafmus Gower having been on fhore to notify to Fridny 7. the Viceroy that Lord Macartney was ready to land, he returned to thc Lion in order to conduct: him; and they foon arrived with all the ceremonials fuited to the occafion. Thc landing-place, which is immediately oppofite to the Viceroy's palace, was lined on each fide by a regiment of horfe, and the Viceroy's body-guards. The Viceroy him-felf was alfo there with his official attendants, and he molt diftin-guifhed perfons of the city, to receive the Ambaffador, who was con- ■ ducted along the line, and diftinguifhed by every military honour, the ceremony had altogether a very grand appearance, and a D prodigious ( * ) I ,,.1^2'J ; Prodigl0U* crowd of people had aifembled to be fpectators of it,. December. They then proceeded to the palace of the Viceroy, and palled through a large hall lined with foldiers under arms, and enlivened by the. i'ound of martial mufic, to the Hate apartments. Here the company remained for fome time, when Lord' Macartney and Sir George Staunton were conducted to the Viceroy's ftate coach; Sir Erafmus Gower and Capt. Mackintofh were placed in a fecond; and thc wThole Britiih fuite being accommodated with carriages, the cavalcade fet off, efcorted by a troop of light cavalry, to the houfe appointed for Lord Macartney's reception, which is about two miles from the city : the Ambaflador receiving, as he palled, every honour due to the high character with which he was invefled. A captain's guard, appointed by the Viceroy, was alfo drawn up in the front of the houfe, who received the Britiih vilitors with colours flying and mufic playing, and every military diifanction. Thus concluded the. ceremony of the Ambaffador's reception at Rio Janeiro. It would not only be tedious, but altogether unneceffary, to mention the common daily occurrences during our flay at the Brazils; I mall, therefore, confine myfelf altogether to fuch circumfiances, a* from their novelty and importance may intereft the mind, and reward, in fome degree, the attention, of the reader. Monday 10. Lord Macartney, with his whole fuite, paid a vifit of ceremony to the Viceroy, and was received with every mark of attention and refpect. The gentlemen who attended on the occafion, afterwards dined with his Lordihip ; and, in the evening, vifited the public garden of the place: this garden is about half a mile in length, and half that fpace in breadth ; it is furrounded by a flrong high wall, and guarded at the entrance by a party of foldiers. The interior difpofition confifls of large grafs-plots and gravel walks, agreeably (haded with trees, and perfumed with flowers. In the center is a large bafon of water, and a great number of lamps are placed between the trees, on each fide of the walks, for the purpofe of illumination. At one end 3 of of the garden is a large building for balls and mufic; but, as the *792* feafon of aniufement at this place was palTed when we were there, Decemtw. we muff, be content with giving a defcription of the fpot, without fpeaking of the divcrfions to which, at certain fcafons of the year, it is applied, as we doubt not, to thc recreation of the inhabitants. All pofliblc preparation was made in the long gallery and great Tuefdayn room of Lord Macartney's houfe to receive the Viceroy, who had given notice of his intention to return the Amballador's vifit in the morning of this day. At ten o'clock, Sir Erafmus Gower, with the officers from the Lion, dreffed in their belt uniforms, as well as Capt. Mackintosh, with the officers of thc Hindoftan, came on more to attend the ceremony. At eleven, the Viceroy's departure from his palace was announced by a difcharge of artillery from the garrifon; when the guard, appointed by the Viceroy to attend the Brit if h Ambaffador, immediately .paraded in front of the houfe ; and, in about half an hour, the Viceroy arrived in grand procefhon, preceded and followed by a fquadron ■of horfe, and attended by all the principal officers and perfons of dif-tinction in the city. His Excellency was received at the door of the houfe by Lord Macartney, and conducted to a fofa at the upper end of the bed apartment. Sir George Staunton then prefented all the gentlemen attached to the embafly, according to their reipective rank, to the Viceroy; who, after partaking of a very elegant repaff. prepared for him and his company, returned in the fame form, and with the fame ceremonies, as diilinguilhed his arrival. The drefs of the Viceroy was fcarlet cloth, very much enriched with gold, embroidery, and precious ftones; his attendants wore a iplendid livery of green and gold, and he had feveral black running footmen, who were dreifed in fancy uniforms, with large turbans on -their heads, and long fabres by their fides. This morning, at an early hour, Sir George and Mr. Staunton, accompanied by Mr. Barrow and a Portuguese gentleman, let off on a fhort excurfion into the country. At the lame time, I took an opportunity of viiiting thc place, of which I lhall now proceed to give fuch a defcription, as my capacity for obfervation will enable me. This city, which is by fome called Saint Scbaftian, and by others, Rio Janeiro, Hands on the welt fide of the harbour of the latter name,, in a low fituation, and almoft furrounded by hills, which, by retarding the circulation of the air, renders thc place very unfalutary to. European constitutions. Its extent is very confiderable, being from eaft to welt about four miles in length, and from north to fouth about two miles in breadth. The ftrccts, for there are no fquares, are very; regular and uniform, interfering each other at right angles : they are well paved, abound in fhops of every kind, and are compofed of houfes equally well built, and adapted to the climate. In the center of the city, and oppofite to the beach, ftands the palace of the Viceroy: it is a large, long, and narrow building, without any attraction from its exterior appearance, but contains within a. fueceilion of fpacious and noble apartments. It confiits only of two ftories; the lower one being appropriated to the domeflics and menial officers, and the upper range of building containing thc apartments of the Viceroy : it is built of rough ftone, plaiitered with lime, and covered with pantiles. The Viceroy's chapel is a neat edifice, near the palace, but detached from it. The ffreets arc not only fpacious and convenient* biit remarkable for their cleanlinefs; many of them containing ranges of fhops and warehoufes that would do credit to the cities of Europe* There is a cuftom here, which appears to be worthy of imitation in all places of confiderable trade and commerce, that all perfons of the fane profeifion occupy the fame ftrect or diflrict j and a deviation from this rule is very rarely known in this city. Of the population of tiiis place, I could not procure any accurate information, but from its extent, and the general obfervations 1 was enabled to make, it may* \ think, be conftdcred, without exaggeration, as amounting to two 2 hundred ( 21 > hundred thoufand fouls. Thc people, who arc Roman Catholics, are 179*. very much attached to the ceremonials of their religion, which they December, obferve with extreme fuperflition. The churches are very numerous,, and fitted up with oftentatious finery. On the feflivals of their patrons thefe edifices are richly adorned, and beautifully illuminated. Some of them, indeed, during our flay, Were lighted up with fo much fplendor, as to offer a very linking fpecfaele, and-to bear the appearance rather of a public rejoicing, than a partial act of parochial devotion. Near the middle of the city, and on a commanding eminence, there is a public obfervatory furnilhed with an agronomical apparatus. The inhabitants are very offentatious in their drefs ; and every rank of people are in the habit of confidering fwords as effential to their public appearance; even children are not confidered as exempt from this ornamental weapon. The drefs of the ladies bears a near refem-blancc to that of European women, except in the decoration of the head. Their hair is fmoothed back in the front, and adorned with artificial flowers, beads, and feathers, fantaftically arranged ; behind, it falls down in a variety of plaited trefles, intermixed with ribbons of various colours, each trefs terminating in a role made of ribbon. They alfo wear a large mantle of filk, hanging loofely behind in the form of a train, which is borne by one fervant, while another holds an umbrella to made the face of his miflrefs from the fun-. The females of Brazil are generally of a pale complexion, but have a certain delicacy of feature which renders them very pleating objeefs; and the affability of their manners heightens the agreeablenefs of their perfonaf attract ions. The trade of this place is very-confiderable, and the fource of great wealth to the inhabitants, as well as to the mother country. The^ various articles which are exported from hence, are the fame as thofe ■ produced in other parts of the Portuguefe fettlements in Brazil. The v wharfs are very large and peculiarly commodious; and we were very ( ) 1792. very much amufcd on obfcrving the dexterity with which the Haves December, loaded and unloaded thc barges that lay along fide them. The rice, of which great quantities appeared to be exported from this fettlement, was all contained in undrefled bullock's hides. At a fmall diflance from the city, on the weft fide of it, is a hrgc convent, but more remarkable for ftrength than elegance. It is built round feveral quadrangular courts, paved \Vith large flat ftoncs, Unrounded by piazzas, and kept in a Hate of perfect cieanlincis. It is divided into two parts, each containing a great number of apartments, each part being refpectiv.ely appropriated to a religious community of either fex. The pcrfons who compofed Lord Macartney's fuite were indulged, with the ■■permitlion to vifit this convent, and the nuns took opportunities to throw out to them a variety of little elegant toys of their own fabric. Nor had even their confined and devoted fituation prevented them from knowing the art of manufacturing another kind of article, called billets doux, which they contrived to have conveyed to fome of the Engliih vifitors. They even applied to Lord Macartney, by the director of the convent, for the ufe of his band of mufic, which accordingly performed at feveral morning concerts, within thefe facred walls. There is alfo a very fpacious garden, where the religious ladies are allowed to enjoy fuch recreation as they can find in a place, furrounded with walls of at lealt forty feet in height; which, as if they did not form a fuflicient fecurity, are conftantly guarded on the outfide by a party of foldiers. On the north-weft fide of thc town there is a ftupendous aqueduct, which is an object of uncommon curioi\ty. It is in the form of a bridge, contains eighty arches, and in fome parts is, at lcait, one .hundred and fifty feet in height j and is feen, in fome points of view, with peculiar effect, riling gradually above the lofticft buildings of thc city. This immenfc chain of arches ft retches acrofs a valley, and unites the hills that form it. The object for which it was erected is completely anfwered, as it conveys water from perennial fprings, at the tlie diftancc of five miles, into the town, where, by means of leaden ( *792« pipes, it is conducted to a large and elegant refer voir at the beach, December, oppoiite to the Viceroy's palace. This water is of the beft quality, and is withal fo very abundant, as not only to afford an adequate fupply for all the wants of the inhabitants, but to furnifh the. mips that come into the harbour with this neceffary element. The military eflablifhment at Rio Janeiro is on a very refpectable footing. The foldiers are not only well cloathed and difciplined, but are allowed to enjoy all the privileges of citizens. It feems to be a policy of the Portuguefc government, and a very wife one it is, to render the hutation of the foldiery in their American fettlements, not only comfortable in itfclf, and refpectable in its character, but, in fome degree, as I mould imagine, thc fource of pecuniary advantage. Thus the loyalty and zeal of thc foldiers arc happily tecured in a fituation fo important from its value, and where vigilance and fidelity in thofe who guard it, become more neceffary in. proportion to its remotcnefs from the mother country. Whether it is that their pay is proportionally advanced in the fervice of thefe fettlements, or that they are allowed any dilfinct advantages, I cannot tell,' but they certainly, appear to be in a fbte of comparative affluence, which no other foldiery that I have ever feen or heard of can be fuppofed to poifefs. The number of- troops in Rio Janeiro, including cavalry and infantry, amount to twenty thoufand men; and the militia are, at leaf!, double that number. At the.fame time the place is admirably fortified, both by art and nature. It is fituatcd about two miles from the mouth of the bay, and is defended by nine flrong forts, well fupplied \ with artillery, and fufficicnt garrifons. There are alfo two fmall i iflands in the. middle of the bay, one at the entrance, called Santa Cruz Fort, and another at a fmall. diflancc, which ftill add to the fhength of the fituation, and the difficulty of attacking.it with,advantage. Sir George Staunton fet off with a party on an excurfion to the Saturday i$, Sugar Loaf Hill, a very high rock fituatcd on the left fide of thc entrance to thc harbour; and at five o'clock in the .afternoon, Lord Macartney, ( *4 ) *79?- ney, who was ftill very much indifpofed, accompanied by Sir Erafmus •December. Gower, returned, in a private manner, on board the Lion. Sunday 16. AH the baggage being put into carts to be carried to the beach, the officers who commanded the guard at the houfe where Lord Macartney had refided, ordered a party of foldiers to attend each cart, till the whole of their cargoes was depofited on board thc boats which were in waiting to receive them. While I was attending on this duty, I had an opportunity of feeing the Viceroy return in great fiate from the church, where he had been to attend fome particular ceremonial of his religion. Monday 17. At half pall ten in the morning we weighed anchor, and worked down to Santa Cruz Fort, and came too, foon after, in fifteen fathom water. The next day we foon ran out of the harbour, and took our leave of Rio Janeiro. Nothing now occurred for fome time, in the courfe of the voyage, which requires particular notice; nor even that change of weather which would juflify a circumflantial account of it. The weather was, in general, moderate; light airs, frelh breezes, with occasional hazinefs and drizly rain, would include every defcription of it during the remainder of the year 1792. It may not, however, be thought altogether improper in me to mention, that, though fo fir removed from our friends and native clime, with fuch a wafle of water around us, and fo long a track Toefdgy^j, of ocean before us., the fellival of Chriilmas-day was not forgotten, and that its focial diftincfions were pracfifed and enjoyed in the little world that bore us along. Monday 31. About ten in the morning we law thc ifland of Trifhn de Cunha. It is a barren, uninhabited, and almoif. inacceflible ifland, lituated in the heart of the fouthern ocean; in thirty-feven dcg. feven min. and thirty fee. fouth latitude, and about forty-five deg. calf longitude. When we firfl obferved this mountain riling above the clouds, k appeared to be as ( ) as high as the pe'ak of Teneriff. It is a natural place of refort to prodigious numbers of wild birds; while the furrounding fea is thc habitation of whales, fea-lions, and other monflers of thc deep. Lieutenant Whitman, who was fent on ihore in the cutter, to found for anchorage, gave a very favourable report of the beach, as well as of a run of water which iffued from a cliff, and, flowing acrofs thc fhore, difcharged itfelf into the fea. Mr. Whitman, on this occafion, fliot a fea-lion and an albatrofs; the latter of which he brought on board. It mcafured nine feet from the bill to the extremity of the tail, but weighed no more than three pounds and an half. In confequence of this information, Sir Erafmus Gower propofed to fend a watering party on fhore the next morning; while Sir George Staunton fuggefled an excurfion thither at the fame time, to fee what this ifland offered to his obfervation in any branch of natural hiflory : for this purpofe, a certain number of artillery men were ordered to be in readinefs by three o'clock in the morning, and to be properly equipped for the expedition againfl the amphibious monflers of the fhore. At midnight, however, a very heavy gale came on, which Tuefday i, caufed the fhip to flart her anchor, and our fituation became very alarming; for if the wind, which blew directly on the rock, had not changed, we muff inevitably have periflied. This unexpected alteration in the weather fruflrated the defigns which had been formed of obtaining further information relative to this curious place. The weather continued to be moderate, with light airs, and frefli Sunday to^ breezes, till this day; when there came on an heavy gale of wind, which occafioncd fuch a rolling of the fhip, as to interfere with thofe enjoyments which make feamen forget the inconveniencies of their fituation. Thc moderate weather returned, with all the comforts that ufually attend it. E About 1 793 ■ v---*--1 About four o'clock in the morning faw land, bearing E. N. E".. Friday1 fuppofed to be ten leagues diftant; which, in about four hours, was difcovered to be thc ifland of Amfterdam, fituate in the Indian ocean, and lying in latitude thirty deg. forty-three min. fouth, and feventy-feveu deg. twenty min. eaft longitude. As we approached the ifland, we could plainly difcover three men on the fhore; in confequence of which thc enfign was immediately hoifted. We here faw great numbers of Water fnakes, and a prodigious quantity of fifh rcfembling cod, and weighing, in general, about three to eight pounds. At noon the yawl was hoifted out, and the mafter fent to found for anchorage. In confequence of his information we hove too, and anchored with the beft bower, in twenty-eight fathom water, on the eaft fide of the ifland... The mafter alfo gave an account that there were five men on the ifland, who had come from the Ifle dc France, for the purpofe of killing feals, with which this place abounds. Wednefday*. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with feveral other gentlemen; accompanied by a party of artillery foldiers, properly armed, went on. fhore, and made great deftrucl:ion among the natives of the place: fuch as feals, penguins, albatrofles, &c. Great quantities of fifh were alfo caught here, and falted, for the fervice of the fhip. On the north-caft end of the ifland, nearly oppofite to where the Lion lay at anchor, there is a very commodious bafon, about a mile in diameter, and unrounded by inacceflible and perpendicular rocks 5. at the entrance of which, on the north-weft corner, ftands a lofty infulated rock, which bears the form of a fugar-loaf. This bafon might, at a fmall expenfe, be made a place of fafe retreat for mips-of any burthen; as, it contains, in many parts, thirteen fathom water, and poflelTes an excellent landing place. We here caught great quantities of fifh which refemble our lobfter, both in fhape and fize, but of a very fuperior flavour. We alfo obferved great numbers of fharks all round the ifland ; which is the more extraordinary, as the fhark is feldom feen in thefe latitudes. On On our landing, we were met by the five feal-hunters, whom wc have already mentioned ; who, with great civility, conducted us to an hut at a fmall diftance from the beach. They were natives of France and America, who had made a commercial engagement to come and rcfide in this ifland for the fpacc of eighteen months, in order to kill feals, whofe ikins are fold to very, great advantage to flrips which touch at the ifle of France. At this time they had only been fix months in their prefent fituation, when, according to their account, they had already killed eight thoufand feals. At a fmall diflancc from their hut, thefe men had, with much labour, and no fmall hazard, formed a path, by which tlicy contrived to get over a mountain to kill feals on the other fide of thc ifland. On afcending this path, wre came to a fmall fpring, whofe water is equal to boiling heat; and fome fifh which we put into it, wrere as perfectly dreffed in fix minutes, as if they had been cooked on board the fhip. It fhould be alfo obferved, that while we were attending to this procefs, we diflinctly heard the fame kind of bubbling founds as proceeds from water boiling in a veffel over the fire. On the top of the mountain there is a volcano, from whence a fuhftance iffues, which thefe men reprefented as bearing the appearance, and poffefling the qualities, of falt-petre. This ifland is about eight miles in length, and fix in breadth; in fome parts it is altogether flat, particularly to the weft, and gradually rifes to the very high land in the center of it. It is a very barren fpot, bearing neither tree nor flirub, and whofe only produce is a kind of coarfe, tufted grafs, with very thick ftalks. Every thing in this ifland bears the mark of having undergone the action of fire. The earth, and even the rocks and ftoncs, on approaching the volcano, were fo hot as to fcorch our fkin, to burn our fhoes, and blilter our feet. We were conducted about this defolate place by the five feal-hunters ; whofe care and kind attentions preferved us not only from inconvenience, but danger, which it would have been impoffible for us to have avoided, if we had not been fubject to their direction. E 2 The The volcanic mountain is about three miles in its afcent, which is very ftcep and rugged; and in its afcent, as well as defccnt, attended with continual difficulties. In fliort, we had met with fo many obflacks both in going up and coming down it, that two fignal guns had been fired from the Lion, which, with the Hindoftan, were both under weigh, when we reached the fhore; where, after an interval of no common alarm and apprehenfion, we found a boat that conveyed us on board. The night being dark, we faw the flames of the volcano burfting forth in fix different places, at a confiderable diflance from each other, which formed a grand and affecting fpectacle. It may here be proper to remark, that thc thermometer, which, on board, flood at fifty-five degrees, rofe on the ifland to feventy-four; and, towards the top of thc mountain, to lev en ty-feven degrees and an half: a circumflance which mud be attributed to the heat of the volcano. Fnday This morning, at three o'clock, a very large meteor, or fire-ball, rofe from the north-north-wefl, and continued in view for fome minutes, paffing off, without any explofion, to the fouth-fouth-eafl. It threw a kind of blue light over the fails and decks; but thc illumination was fo flrong, that the moil trifling object could be diftinguiflicd. Monday 18. At eight o'clock in the morning difcovered the Trial rocks, about a league to the windward; the fea beating over them to an immenfe height. Thefe rocks are not vifible, as they do not rife above the fur-face of the water, nor are they much beneath it. They are fituated in the Indian ocean, in about one hundred and fix degrees of eaft longitude, and twenty-five, or twenty-fix degrees of ibuth latitude. Thurfdaya8. ln proceeding up the flraits of Sunda, we faw the Hindoflan lying at anchor, near the north ifland. In the afternoon a Dutch prow came along-fide the Lion, laden with turtle, poultry, and fruit, for fale. The owner of the prow was a Dutchman; but thofe who rowed it were Malays, and fome of them females. in.) At three o'clock in the afternoon we came too in Batavia road, in '793-five fathom wTater: the careening ifland bearing weft-north-welt. March. We were faluted by all the Engliih lhips in the road, and one French Wednefda>6* veflel. At fun-rife we faluted the Dutch garrifon with thirteen guns, which were returned : at feven we returned the falutes of all the lhips; and at eight received the members of the Dutch council with the firme honours. Thofe gentlemen compofed a deputation from the Governor-General of Batavia, to invite Lord Macartney on fhore, and to know on what day and hour he would be pleafed to land. His Lordihip, accordingly, fixed on Friday, the 8th infl. at nine o'clock in the morning, that being the anniverfary of the birth-day of his Serene Highnefs the Prince of Orange. At fix o'clock in the morning, a fidute of twenty-one lower-deck Friday 8. guns was fired, in honour of his Serene Highnefs: and, at thc time appointed, the Ambaffador, attended by his whole fuite, went on fhore with thc ufual formalities. In a fhort time after Lord Macartney had quitted rhc fhip, a Dutch officer of diftinction, with feveral ladies and gentlemen, came on board the Lion, from Batavia, to take a view of her. They were received with all poflible politenefs by Lieutenant Campbell, and appeared to be much fatisfied with their reception. A very fine young Engliih lady was one of the party-, and enhanced the honour of the vifit. In the afternoon I went on fhore in the launch, having charge of the baggage belonging to the fuite, which was, with fome difficulty, rowed up the canal, and fafely landed before the door of the royal Batavian hotel, where the packages were diflributed in the apartments of the gentlemen to whom they refpcftively belonged. The Ambaffador, with Sir George and Mr. Staunton, were received at the houfe of Mr. Wiggerman, one of the members of thc fuprcmc council. 1703- At fix o'clock Lord Macartney went in form to an entertainment "March. at tne Governor-General's country refidence, at which the principal perfons of both fexes in Batavia were prefent. The whole concluded with a magnificent fupper and ball, which lafled to a very late hour of the following morning. Sunday io. While I was at break fart this morning, my ears were affailed by the.moll: dreadful Ihrieks I ever heard; and, on making the inquiry which humanity fuggeited, I difeovered that thefe horrid founds proceeded from a Malay Have, whom the mailer of the hotel had ordered to be punilhed for fome omiflion of his duty. This poor wretch, who was upwards of feventy years of age, was flanding in a back court, while two other Haves were fcourging him in the molt unrelenting manner with fmall canes. This horrid punifhment they continued for thirty-five minutes, till the back and hips of this victim to fevc-rity exhibited one lacerated furface, from whence the blood trickled down on the pavement. The mafter then commanded thc coireeling flaves to give over their tormenting office, and fent the fmarting.culprit, as he was, and without any application whatever to his wounds, to continue the laborious duties of his ftation. On remonflrating with the mafler of the hotel, for this cruel and barbarous treatment of his fervant—he anfwercd, that the Malays were fo extremely wicked, that neither the houfe, nor any one in it, would be fafe for a moment, if they were not :kept in a ftate of continual terror, by the moft rigid and exemplary punifhment. But this was not all; for another act of neceffary fevcrity, as it was reprefented to me, though of a different kind, immediately fucceeded. Two flaves, in carrying off the break-falt equipage from our.table, contrived between them to break a plate; for which offence, as it could not be precifcly fixed upon either, they were both ordered to fuffer. They were, accordingly, each of them, furnifhed with canes, and compelled to beat each other; which they did with reciprocal feverity; as two other flaves flood with bamboos, to correct any appearance of lenity in than. Notw ithflanding ( II ) Notwithstanding the extreme heat of the weather, I was impatient 1793. to take a view of the city; and the refult of my obfervations I now M~archT prefent to the reader. The city of Batavia is fituate in the ifland. of Java, and is thc capital of all the Dutch fettlements and colonies in the Eafl Indies. It lies in one hundred and four degrees of eafl: longitude, and fix degrees of fouth latitude ; and from its fituation between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, the climate is infupportably hot. The city is built, in a fquare form, and furrounded with a flrong wall, about thirty feet high. There are four.gates, one in each angle, with a fort, battery, and barracks for foldiers at each gate. The forts are mounted with artillery, garrifoncd with troops, and furrounded with ditches, over which draw-bridges are let down during the day ; but after nine o'clock at night there is no paffage over them without a figned order from the Governor-General, The ftreets of the city are broad, .handfomely built, and well paved ; and in the center of every principal flreet there is a canah of about ftxty feet broad; fo that there is no communication between the two fides of the fame flreet but by bridges, of which there are great numbers thrown over the water at no great diflance from each other. The. houfes are, in general, three flories high; and each ftory very lofty, . on account of the exceflive . heat of the climate. They are all built according to one,general defign, and poflefs a certain degree of grandeur, both in their external, and interior appearance; The lower, (lory of the houfes is built of ftone, covered with marble; and the upper part is compofed of a fine red brick : the-windows, which are very large, are coped with marble, and the wooden frame-work richly gilt and ornamented. The inhabitants appear to have a very great pride in preferving the exterior beauty of their houfes, and ufe a fort of red paint for that purpofe, with which they wafli, ,or. colour the fronts of them at leaft once a week. On ( 3* ) On each fide of thc canal there are two rows of evergreen trees, which add very much to thc beauty of the ftreets. There are alfo in different parts of each ftreet, fmall fquare buildings, with feats in them for the accommodation ot paffengers, as fhelter or (hade may be necelfary, from the violence of the rain or the heat of the fun. The only public buildings which merit particular attention, are thc palace of the Governor-General, the arfenal, the lladthoufe, and the. high church. The fir ft of them forms a termination to the principal ftreet of thc place, its fore-court is handfomely railed, and thc front gate is guarded by centinels. This edifice is of ltonc, and of an impofing appearance : it confifts of four ftories, with a central dome crowned with a turret: there are alfo large wings projecting on either fide from the main body, with furrounding piazzas. There is a battalion of foldiers conftantly on duty here, which confifts chiefly of Malays commanded by European officers. I faw alfo a few European foldiers, who, though they were much better clothed and accoutred than the native troops, have fuch a meagre, pale, and ghaitly appearance, as to be but ill-qualified for the duties of their own, or any other profeflion. I was informed by fome of them, that not one in twenty of the military who came from Europe, ever returned there; and that even thofe who efcape from hence, and furvive all the dangers and diforders of the climate, generally go back to their own country with emaciated forms and debilitated conftitutions. This palace appears to have been built at feveral diftinct periods, from thc dates which are engraved in different parts of it. The dates 1630, 1636, and 1660, mark, as I fuppofe, the particular periods when certain principal parts of it were erected. Before the court there is a kind of lawn, with a walk in thc middle, fhaded with rows of trees; and to the left of this lawn, at a fmall diitance from the palace, ftands the arfenal, before which lay a great number of new brafs guns, gun- 4 carriages, ( 33 ) carriages, fliot of all kinds piled up, and fifty large cannon com- tffo pletely mounted. This building, as may be fuppofed, is more re- ^JJJ^ markable for its ffrcngth, than the beauty of its external appearance, and contains an immenfe quantity of all kinds of ordnance and military flores, both in its chambers, and in the deep vaults beneath the building. Beyond this lawn or walk is a canal, over which a drawbridge communicates with one of the forts; and near it is a very elegant Hone building, with corresponding wings, built in a very pleafmg ftile of architecture: it is called the fmall armory, and, as 1 was informed on the fpot, contains two hundred thoufand (land of arms. Around this edifice, there are feveral large courts, which contain refidences for the principal officers, as well as barracks for twenty-thou land men; but this vafl range of buildings is no longer inhabited, on account of the contagious diforders that are fo frequent in this city. The officers have all of them places of refidencc at fome diflance from thc town; and all the European regiments are quartered in the country; the guard on the city duty being regularly relieved every morning. The regiment appointed for duty marches every day into town, at fix o'clock in the morning, to the grand parade oppolite the Governor's palace ; one battalion of which attends the Governor's duty, and the other is diflributed among the feveral guards round the city. Near thc fort, which has been already mentioned, (lands the cuf-tom-houfe, belonging to thc Dutch Eaft-India Company, with their jflore-houfes, and other commercial erections. There is alfo a fmall dock-yard, where boats and a few inconfiderablc veifels were building. There is a chain thrown acrofs the canal, every night, to prevent all communication with boats after a certain hour, and a fort has been erected near the cuHorn-houfe, with a view, as it appears, to protect it; h.ut, without pretending to any knowlege in the fciencc of defence, or Military tactics, I could difcovcr that this place was in no condition to F rcfift i 34 ) refill; a well-appointed enemy; nor could i reconcile the defenceless flate of this valuable fettlement to the wealth and importance of it. At the end of the flreet leading from the Governor's houfe, and in a hand fome fquare, flands the fladthoufe, where the courts of jullice are held, and the fupreme council meet to proceed in their deliberations: it is a very fine building, with an interior court fur rounded by a piazza. At a fmall diflance from the fladthoufe is the principal church of the city, which is furrounded by a cemetery. It is a large, plain, fquare budding, with a dome in the center, and a lofty turret fpringing from it; the inflde is fitted up in a very beautiful manner:. the tribune belonging to the Governor General is very much enriched the pews are very commodioully arranged ; and, indeed, every part is-admirably adapted to the purpofes of that religion to which it is devoted. The walls of the church are entirely covered with efcutcheons and painted inferiptions, facred to the memory of the dead : thefe inscriptions are of different fizes, but being painted in the fiime form, enclofed in gilt frames, and difpofed with judgment, produce a very beautiful, effect. The civil government of Batavia and the ifland of Java is perfectly arbitrary, and veiled in the Governor and Supreme Council in all matters, excepting thofe of trade and commerce, which are fubject to an officer called a Director General, from whofe decifions there is no appeal. The feverity of the laws, and the rigour with which they, are executed, could find no juflification in a fettlement belonging to an European government; were it not for the favage and ferocious difpofition of the natives of the country, whom no punifhments, however frequent or fevere, are able to maintain in that flate of difcipline and good oreler, which is fa neceffary to the well-being and comfort of civilifed life. Thc The number of regular troops quartered in the neighbourhood of qtgfr Batavia, including both the European and Malay regiments, amounts March, to about twelve thousand men: there are alfo upwards of twenty-thoufand native militia, who are regularly cloathed and paid; but though they are frequently muflered, by order of the Governor, they are never actually embodied, but in time of war, or in confequencc of fome civil commotion. The European troops are cloathed in a manner fuitable to the climate, are allowed to carry on any trade or profeffiori for which they are qualified, and otherwife remunerated by particular privileges ; if any thing can remunerate them for the dangers and in-conveniencics that rclult from this ungenial clime. The Malay troops, on the contrary, are deftitute of any decent clothing; none of them at lead: being allowed fhoes or ilockings; and in this miferable flate of equipment they do their duty. Batavia is extremely populous; and among its inhabitants may be found the natives of every European country: the larger proportion of them, however, are Chinefe, who appear to be a quiet and induflrious people. It feemed to be a general opinion among thofe, of whom I had an opportunity to make the inquiry, that this city contains two hundred thoufand fouls; one half of which are fuppofed to be Chinefe, and the other, Europeans and native Malays: nor when I con-fider the extent of the city and its fuburbs, do I conceive it to be an exaggerated calculation. On my return to the hotel after the morning's excurfion, of which I have given the information it produced, I found, witli great concern, that Lord Macartney had been feized with a violent fit of thc gout, and was returned on board the Lion j fo that all the various entertainments which were preparing to have enlivened the time of our flay at Batavia, were frullrated by this very uupleafant change in the health of the cUilinguifhcd perfon who was the ohjecl of them. I flipped C 36 ) . '793- I flipped this evening at the Batavian hotel, in company with two March, French gentlemen, who had been fo fortunate as to efcape from a band of Malays. The villains had attacked them in the ftreet: a circum-ftance which often happens, and particularly to ftrangers who pafii the ftreets after it is dark. Tuefday u. I repeated my excurfions through the city. Several gentlemen of the Ambaflador's fuite being taken ill, they *fr were ordered to go on board their refpective lhips, and large quantities of fruit were purchafed for their ufc and refreshment. In the evening I went to fee the tragedy of Mahomet, and paid a rix-dollar for admiflion. The theatre is fituatcd in the middle of a large garden, which is a place of public refort for the Batavians. of every rank and denomination, It is a fpacious brick building, decorated with great elegance, and fitted up with front and fide boxes, and galleries; its orcheftra alfo contained a tolerable band of mufic. The play, as far as I could judge from the attitudes of the actors, and the expreffion of their countenances, for the whole was in the Dutch language, was very well performed. Thc entertainment was Barnaby Brittle, and afforded a great deal of amufement. The audience was very brilliant, but thc more fplendid part of it arofe from the fuperior figure, appearance, and beauty of fome Engliih ladies who graced thc boxes on the occafion. Thurf-] At noon there was an auction, or, as it is here termed, an outcry, d3y M* of certain lands and eftates, belonging to fome of thofe fortunate individuals, who, having efcaped the dangers of the climate, return with the large fortunes they have acquired here, to enjoy the comforts and luxurious cafe of Europe. Thefe t ft) Thefe fales cannot take place, but under the infpection of the Com-miifary General, or his deputies, who mud always be prefent on the occafion. Notice is given of thefe auctions throughout the city and fuburbs by a certain number of men, who beat gongs to collect the people together in the different ftreets, when a perfon authorifed by the Commiffary General reads over the articles to be fold, and the conditions of fale : in every other refpect, thefe fales are conducted in? the fame manner as thofe in England. Capt. Mackintofh came on fhore, and purchafed a French brig, Friday i;. to anfwer the purpofe of the Jackall, from whom we had been fa long fcparated, that we defpaired of feeing her again. This evening I have reafon to confidcr as one of the moft fortunate Saturday ifc of my life, having efcaped from a gang of the Malays, who certainly formed a defign, as they had an almoit irrefiftible temptation, to de-ftroy me. The principal part of the baggage belonging to the AmbaiTactor's fuite having been already fent on board the refpective fhips, I was charged by Mr. Maxwell to fee that the reft of the packages, and a cheft of dollars, were put on board a proa hired for that purpofe, and ordered to go down with thc proa to the boom, and remain there till Mr. Maxwell arrived, which he promifed to do in half an hour. I accordingly fet off, and arrived at the boom about eight o'clock, when 1 fattened the boat to thc cuftom-houfe quay, and anxioufly waited the arrival of Mr. Maxwell. In this unpleafint fituation I re-mained till nine o'clock, when the boom was thrown acrofs the water,, and thc bridge drawn up. My uneafinefs now became of a very fe-rious nature, as I well knew that Mr. Maxwell could not reach me but by a fpecial order from the Governor; while I was not only in danger of lofing the property under my care, from the Malays, who were continually running backwards and forwards in the proa, and examining thc articles on board, but of being myfelf facrificed to make the ( jfi ) '793- the booty more fecme to them. In this fituation, I formed the refo-March. lution of making the beil of my way to the Lion ; and, accordingly ordered the Malays to row off for the fhip, which they at firfl refilled ; but after fhewing them fome money, they took the oars, as I expected, to comply with my willies; but, inflead of making towards the fhip, they rowed the proa dole to the fhore, about a gun-fhot from the mouth of the canal, and at leafl half a mile from any houfe. They then all run alhore, and, in fpite of threats or entreaties, left me to myfelf in a much worfe fituation than I was before, as I was now more remote from any afliflance, in cafe 1 fhould be in a fituation to require it. In about twenty minutes thefe wretches returned in greater numbers, which increafed my apprehenfions, as they all entered into the proa, and, putting off from the fhore, attempted to row into the bay : in ihort, a violent fcuffle enfued between us, in which I at length fuc-ceeded, by means of a drawn fword that I ufed with fome effect, in driving them all on fhore, except one man, whom I compelled, by terror of the fame inflrument, to row the veffel to the cuflom-houfe, where J waited till pafl eleven; and, defpairing of feeing Mr. Maxwell till thc next day, I took all the articles out of the boat, and lodged them in a public-houfc for further fecurity. I had, however, fcarce finifhed this neceffary arrangement, when I faw Mr. Maxwell, attended by feveral flaves with flambeaus, arrive on the oppofite fide of thc water. I inflantly hailed him ; when he came over to me, and, all the packages being again put into the proa, we fet fail for the Xion, and fome time after midnight arrived on board. The hotel in which the AmbalTador's fuite refided, during our flay at Batavia, is a very fuperb building of its kind, and was erected at the expenfe of government for the accommodation of foreigners and mercantile flrangers : it is under the fole management and controul of the Governor General and Council, by whofe regulations the bufinefs of the houfe is conducted. It It is called the Royal Batavian and Foreign Hotel, and this title ^793. appears in large golden letters in the front of the houfe, with the date of 1729, the year in which it was built. It contains three regular fforiesj and, as each floor is very lofty, for the benefit of the air, the building riles to a very confiaerable height. It is conflructed, like the other edifices of the place, with brick painted of a red colour, while the learns of mortar between are proportionably whitened; the windows arc alfo very large and broad, the frames of which arc gilt or curioufly painted; the whole forming a very large and handfome itrucfure. There are three doors in the front, and a kind of terrace raifed above the pavement before them, which is covered by a portico > where the company refident in the houfe ufuafly fit after dinner and fmoke their pipes : each of thefe doors forms an entrance into an hall about two hundred feet in length, and about fixty in breadth; at the further end of which there is a large ftair-cale that leads to the bed-chamber apartments, and the flat roof above them. In the center hall there are at leaf! thirty elegant lamps and chandeliers, which are lighted up every night, and, oppofite to them, on the wall, is a range of looking-glaffcs, which reflect, and, of courfe, heighten the brilliance of the illumination: the piers between them are adorned with paintings. In the center of the middle hall is a large arch, from which a filver chandelier is fufpended: the other halls have each a door of the fiimc dimenfions exactly oppofite, and thefe refpectively lead to an apartment with an alcove roof, neatly ornamented with flucco, which contains a billiard table furrounded with lamps. From the center of the principal hall the coup d'ceil at night is perfectly enchanting, from the great number of lights, and the regular order in which they are placed : the billiard rooms alfo with their lamps, correfponding exactly with each other. gfrfr Behind the houfe there is a fpacious gallery with piazzas, from March. whence a large lhade of filk, fancifully painted with figures and gro-tefque characters, is occafionally lowered in the day, as the heat of the fun may require, and in thc evening it is entirely dropped, when the gallery is lighted up in thc fame manner as the apartments already defcribed. Beyond this gallery, there is a court paved with large flat ilones, and furrounded with a variety of offices for poulterers, butchers, and other domcflic ufes, with a fpacious kitchen, and every neceffary accommodation. The upper ilory of this range of building is divided into granaries and chambers for the principal and other flaves, of which there are altogether at lead ninety, of both fexes, who belong to the mailer of the hotel. Thefe menial perfons are promoted according to their merits ; and, if they are induftrious and attentive to the duties of their feveral departments, they may, from the emoluments of their fituation, which are very confiderable, be foon in a condition to rau.r-chafe their freedom. In the great hall on the firfl floor, which ferves as a veflibule to the fleeping apartments that furround it, there is a chryflal lamp rcplcniihcd with cocoa-nut oil, always burning on a table at the door of each room, which is ready for the perfon who occupies it, at whatever time he may chufe to retire to his rcpofe; as it is the enf-tom of the hotel that every one fhould keep the key of his own room, as a fecurity againfl the Malays, who are of fuch an incorrigible nature, that no punifhment can ultimately deter them from indulging their xlifpofition to pilfer. The public regulations of the houfe refemble thofe of European hotels, and the table which was kept for the Ambaifador's fuite was very fuperb. The breakfaft always confifled of tea, coffee, chocolate, and cocoa, .with every kind of cold meat, broiled .fifh, and eggs; to which were added, jellies, fweetmeats, and honey, with various kinds of wines and confectionary, all furnifhed in great abundance, and arranged jin the handfomefl manner. Both thc dinner and fupper confifted v of ( 4i ) of thc mod delicate dimes, and dreffed in a fupcrior flile of cookery. The fervants table was alfo fupplicd with equal propriety and plenty. The rate of living here, however, is very expenfive, and the prices of liquOrS very exorbitant : fmall beer and porter were charged half a crown Engliih per bottle. But when the prodigious rent of this hotel, amounting, as the landlord himfelf allured me, to fixty thoufand rix-dollars per annum, and the expenfe of importing liquors and other commodities from Europe, with the duties on them, is considered, the high price of living, in fuch a fituation, could no longer be regarded either with furpriie or difcontent. Thc drefs of the inhabitants of Batavia takes its rife from the cufTom of their refpect ivc countries. Thc European ladies, indeed, feem not to be altogether governed by this principle, but fuit their dreifes to their own peculiar fancy, and the circumfiances of the climate; while the Dutch and thc Malay women, in fome degree, imitate their falhions. The head-drefs of the latter, however, is altogether differ rent, and of a very curious appearance.—The hair is combed backward from the forehead, and imoothed with oil and eifences in fuch a manner as to wear the appearance of being japanned : it is then twilled hard, and, being laid in a circular form round the crown of the head, is fallcned by a large comb with a number of gold and iilver pins, the heads of which are formed of precious flones, according to the rank of the wearer. Hair powder is very little ufed in Batavia, and by the Europeans alone. It was, however, with no fmall degree of exultation that I faw the decided fuperiority which the few Englifh ladies who rcfidc here, pclfefs over every other denomination of females, not only as to the gracefulncfs of their pcrfons, and the fweet-nefs of their countenances, but, alfo, in the fimplicity of dieir drefs and thc elegance of their manners. G The ( 42 ) The fuburhs of Batavia, or, as it is generally called, the Chinefe town, being moftly inhabited by thofe people, lie on the fouth and weft fides of the ditch that furrounds the city wall, and are fcattcrcd about the country for feveral miles. The houfes arc, in general, of wood, and have no pretentions to elegance or beauty; though their warehoufes are fitted up with a certain degree of glare and gaudi-nefis\ A great variety of manufactures are carried on here by the induftrious Chinamen: indeed, all the artificers and mechanics in liatavia are from China; the Europeans, through a foolifh and unpardonable pride, confidering it as beneath them to perform any mechanical operations; and the Malays appear to be curfed with a natural incapacity to be inftructcd in any thing above the drudgery of manual labour. The whole of thefe fuburhs forms a fcattered mafs of deformity and confufion; and the horrid flenches which arife from ftagnant water and various filthy caufes, cannot be defcribed. In thc furround-ing country there are a great many beautiful feats and villas, with fine gardens; but the ground being every where fwampy, the number of drains, with which it is ncceffarily interfered, renders it more or lefs unwholefome in every part. In palTing through the fifh market, I was under the neceftity of retiring into a tavern, to get fome Madeira and water, in order to recover myfclf from the overcoming effects of the putrid fmclls that alfailed me. There appeared, however, to be a great abundance of fifh in this obnoxious place i but, except turtle, they bore a very exorbitant price. The city and fuburbs of Batavia certainly form one of the moft unwholefome fpots in the world, and may be juftly termed the grave of Europeans: but the unfilutary and infectious nature of the place 4 might might be very much alleviated by an attention to cleorlinefs,. which *793-feems to be not, in the leaff, confidercd by the government or police mJ 1 of the city. A company of fcavengcrs would be of infinite life to the comfort and health of the inhabitants of Batavia; but there is no fuch eltablifl-iment. The heat of thc fun is fo great, that the canals are frequently dried up, or their waters rendered putrid : but this is not fo malignant a fouree of pellilential difeafe, as the naflincfs that prevails among the lower clatlcs of the people, and the inattention to remove the receptacles of putrefaction among the higher orders of them. Nor is it cafily to be reconciled, that the fpirit of cleanhnefs, fo prevalent in Holland, fhould fo totally evaporate in a voyage to the moft important of its Afratic poffefiions. Nay, it has been confidered by political writers, that the inattention to remedy the evils which have been defcribed, is to be attributed to the commercial policy of the Dutch, in order to difcourage foreigners from fettling among them, and fharing the great, but hazardous advantages to be derived from participating in any branch of commerce in this oriental emporium ; or, in cafe of a foreign war, to dcier any enemy from invading a place, the very airs of which are more hoftile to human life, than the weapons of battle. I mail only add, that, within the laft twenty years, no lefs than ninety-eight thoufand deaths appear on the records of the public hofpital in Batavia, At fx o'clock in the morning we weighed anchor and made fail, Sunday 17. running between the illand of Onroolt and the main. This ifland is fituatcd in the middle of the bay, and about four miles from Batavia. Its length does not exceed three quarters of a mile, and it is no more than half a mile in breadth. It contains, neverthelcfs, an handfomc populous town, with a ftrong fort. In G 2 this this little fpot there are feveral founderies and manufactures, and the whole is a fcene of induftry and landfcape beauty. It is alfo fur-rounded with feveral iflands of the fame defcription, molt of which are inhabited ; great numbers of people wifely preferring thefe lima-tions; which, though immoderately hot, are free from thofe contagious difeafes that infect the city and fuburbs of Batavia. CHAP. H chap. II, The Jackal! brig rejoins the Lion. Leigh ton, the carpenter, murdered by the Malays. Lord Macartney views the fpot where Colonel Cat heart was buried. Came to Pulo Condor e ; fome account of its inhabitants; their alarm. Puffed various ifands. Arrived at Turon bay, in Cochin Ch'ma. Several mandarins came on board the Lion ; an account of them. The chief m infer of the King of Cochin China vifits Lord Macartney. Prefents received. Lord Macartney returns the vifit on fhore in form. The mafiler of the Lion feized by the natives, but releafed in a few days. The Interment of Mr. Tothill, purfer of the Lion. The owner of thc French brig came on board, and was paid for T79.r her in dollars. March. Monday x The weather infupportably hot: Lord Macartney was hall fo much Tuefday 1 indifpofed as not to fee company. The new brig joined us, which Lord Macartney was plea fed to Wednef-name the Clarence, in honour of his Royal Highnefs the Duke of d:iy 2°* Clarence. Boarded the Achilles, from Offend to Batavia, who gave fome Thm-fday: account of the Jackall brig, with whom we parted company in a gale of wind, in the Bay of Bifcay. This morning, at fix, we difcovered a fail at a great diftancc, which, Saturday2 from thc account given by the Offend velTcl, was fuppofed to be the Jackall. After a long feries of doubts, conjectures, and folicitudes on the { 46 ) *793* the fubjecT:, Sir Erafmus Gower difpatched Lieutenant Cox, in the March. pinnace, to afcertain the truth. At noon, the pinnace returned with the agreeable intelligence, that thc fhip we bad feen was the Jackall brig, whom we had long ago fuppofed to have been loll. Sunday24. Mr. Saunders, from thc jackall, came on board to deliver his logbook to Sir Erafmus Gower, At four o'clock, we faw a fail, which proved to be the Concord, from China to Bengal. Friday acj. William Lcighton, Lord Macartney's joiner, who went alhore, in Oood riiday. ortjcr ^Q Walh his linen at the watering-place at Sumatra beach, was murdered by the Malays. His body being found covered with wounds, was brought on board thc Lion, and afterwards interred, with all becoming ceremony and refpecl, on North ifland. He was a very ingenious artifan, and an honeil, intelligent, and amiable man. But thc melancholy which pervaded every countenance throughout thc lliip's company, on his death, is a more honourable and decided teflimony of his merit and character, than any expreflions of regard which I might employ on the occafion. April. At half pafl fix, A. M. wc weighed and came to fail; at eight, Mortnay Ifland, fouth by eafl; Stroomc Rock, fouth-cafl, half a mile: at eleven, came too, in Seventeen fathom water. Angara Point, flag-ilaff, fouth by call. The cap, north-north-eafl, and button, north by eafl. The accommodation ladder was hoifted out after dinner, and foon after Lord Macartney, accompanied by Sir Erafmus Gower, went alhore, and viewed the fpot where the Honourable Colonel Cathcart, brother to Lord Catheart, a former Mi-niilcr from the King of Great Britain to the court of China, was interred; and whofe death put an end to that diplomatic expedition. The weather continued moderate, with occafional frefh breezes and light airs, for thc fucceeding fortnight, which was employed in wooding, watering, receiving buffaloes on board, and making the neceflary Monday 1. ( 47 ) necelTary arrangements for the remaining part of the voyage. We 1793-paifedi and, occafionally, anchored at Ninah Ifland, and the Polar, Apiii Hound, and Tamarind iflands. At four in thc afternoon the body of Tharbuny Ifland bore north- Sunday north-weft ; at five came into fifteen fathom water. Found here the Sullivan homeward bound Indiaman, the Jackall, and the Clarence, with an Imperial fhip. Arrived the Royal Admiral Indiaman. The Sullivan and the Royal Admiral, Indiamcn, failed for England. Tuefday We continued coafting along, and palled by numerous iflands, with moderate weather; which was only once interrupted by a fquall, ac-' companicd by rain, and followed by thunder and lightning, till we came to anchor in thc fouth-weftern extremity of Pulo Condorc bay. A party, foon after our arrival, went on fhore, after having called May, at the Hindoftan, for Sir George and Mr. Staunton, and Mr. Thurld:i; Niaung, one of the Chinefe interpreters. We reached the fhore in about an hour and a half; and, on our landing, fome of the natives came out to meet us on thc beach, with whom we proceeded towards a wood, with fix men from the boats, properly armed with muf-quets and ammunition. We had not, however, proceeded more than an hundred yards, when wc came to a few miferable huts, built of bamboo, and feattered about the place where they are fituatcd. One of them was inhabited by a perfon ftyled the chief, or mandarin, in whom was veiled the government of thc ifland. This hut, like the reft, was raifed about three feet from the ground, with a roof of bamboo, and fupported by four polls fixed in the earth. Such is the only miferable fheiter which the inhabitants poffefs. In this houfe, if it may be thought to deferve that name, there were feveral people, all natives of Cochin China, but who fpoke the Tartar language. .None of them, except the chief, had any covering covering but a flrip of linen round their waifts, and a kind of black turban on their heads. The chief, to whom the reft paid great obedience, was diflinguilhcd by wearing a loofe black gown, made of a fluff like crape j under which he wore a wide pair of black filk trowfers. Over his moulder was thrown a Slyer cord, to which was fufpended behind a fmall embroidered bag of very exquiiite work-manfhip. His Head was alfo covered with a black turban ; but he was, in common with the reft, without fhoes. At the di(lance of a few yards from the hut Hood their temple, whole exterior form was thc fame as the other buildings. The infide was fumithed, or, as it muff have been confidered by them, ornamented with fome old fire-arms, a few cutlaffcs, and three daggers. One fwivel, and fome long fpontoons, were laid acrofs the roof: there were alfo feveral lances, and creafes (a kind of poifonous dagger, tiled by the Afiatic lavages) piled up againfl a bamboo pofl, in the middle of the building. It was evident, from the conduct of thefe people, that they were not accuflomed to the life of fire-arms, as they appeared to confider thefe warlike inflrumcnts as objects of adoration. This opinion was confirmed by the alarm and aitonifh-mcnt they cxprcflcd on my discharging a mufquet at the trunk of a tree ; and the eagernefs with which they examined the place where thc ball had entered. But this did not content them ; for they contrived to extract thc ball, which they fhewed to each other with marks of extreme amazement. We remained near two hours on fhore, and entered into a treaty with the chief, to procure us as many buffaloes, with as much poultry, fruit, &c. as could be fpared from the ifland, and for which he was to be paid his own price i to this proportion he readily agreed, andpromifed that the commifiion mould be immediately executed, and the different articles be ready for delivery on the next day. After the agreement was thus amicably fettled, the chief offered us a regale of rice and fifh, of which we all tatted. He then pointed to fome cocoa-nut trees, ( 49 ) trees, as if to know if we mould chufe to have any of them j and no fooner was it fignified to him that a prefent of that fruit would be very acceptable, than a number of his people were inflantly ordered to gather them. It was furprifing to fee with what agility they climbed up thofe very lofty trees; and as they threw down the nuts, others below immediately fkinned and handed them round to the company. We then took our leave of the mandarin, and on our way to the beach faw feveral canoes which were building, and one of them appeared to be of a very ingenious conftruction. Thc ifland of Pulo Condorehas but few inhabitants, and thofe it pof-felXes are not collected together in any town, but live in bamboo huts, fcattered up and down the country. It produces no fruit but cocoa-nuts and water-melons, and no grain but fome coarfe rice. It has, however, plenty of buffaloes, with a kind of wild-duck, and the common fowls, fome of which are domcfticated with them. This ifland, however, has a noble bay, which produces a fifh that refemblcs our whiting, in great abundance, and has a fafe anchorage, except along the fhore, where for about three quarters of a mile it is full of fhoals. The ifland is fubject to the King of Cochin China, and lies in the Chinefe ocean. Long, one hundred and feven deg. twenty-fix min. eait. Lat. two deg. forty min. north. On returning to the fhips we met with a very heavy fquall, attended with violent rain. This morning I went afhore with a party, accompanied by Mr. Niaung, in order to receive the feveral articles for which a bargain had been made with the mandarin on the preceding day. On our landing, and going to the hut belonging to the Chief, wc found, to our utter aftonifhment, that the people had defertcd their habitations, and carried off every article with them : even the temple H was was dripped of all its warlike treafure. This extraordinary and unexpected circumitance was, however, explained in a letter, which we found in the Chief's hut. It was written in Chinefe characters, and expreifed the apprehenfions of the iilanders at feeing our lhips in their bay ; a fight they had never beheld before. In Ihort, this appearance was fo formidable to them, that they concluded our defigns muff be hoflile ; and in order to avoid the deftruction which they imagined us to have meditated again ft them, they had, during the night, conveyed away their effects, and retired to the moun<-;..ns. The letter alfo reprefented their extreme poverty, and implored us with the moft humble expreflions, not to burn or deftroy their huts, as they pro-pofed to re-inhabit them as foon as the fquadron had failed. We, therefore, returned to the fhips as we left them, without fruits, or fowls, or buffaloes. Saturday 18. Heavy gales. At four in the afternoon, fqually ; at eight, weighed anchor, and came to fail. Thurfday»3. Having paffed in the intermediate time feveral iflands of different forms, we, this day, faw the extremes of Pulo Canton, an ifland off the coaft of Cochin China, bearing north by weft, to north-weft by weft. Sunday 26. At nine in the evening anchored in Turon Bay, in Cochin China. Found here a Portuguefe brig, who faluted us with eleven guns. Monday*;. The fhip's company employed in watering. The water here is of a reddifh colour. Several proas came along-fide the Lion with ducks, cocoa-nuts, and joghry, for fale. Several mandarins alfo came on board to fee the fhip. Tuefday 28. Men were fent on fhore to raife tents for the fick. 4 Thc ( 5' ) The Ambaffadorwas vifited by feveral mandarins, with a great x79> train of attendants. They were entertained with wines and li- Mtas quors of various kinds, which, however, they were very cautious ^bry *$. in tailing, till Lord Macartney baniihed all apprchenfion by fetting them the example: they then drank, without refcrve, whatever was offered to them; but they appeared to prefer cherry and rafberry brandy, above all the other liquors with which they were regaled. Thc drefs of thefe perfons confifled chiefly of a black loofe gown, of a kind of crape, with filk trowfers, flippers, and a black turban : a girdle, of filver cordage, was alfo tied round their waifls. Some of them, but whether it arofe from accident, or was a badge of dif-tinction, I cannot tell, wore dark blue gowns of the fame fluff. Thc domcflics were clad in a plaid, or Tartan drefs; their trowfers were tucked up to the knee, and they wore no fhoes or flippers; their legs were entirely naked; and their turban was of plaid, like the reft ©f their very curious drefs. In the evening, the Prime Minifler of the King of Cochin China, Friday 31. came on board the Lion, accompanied by feveral mandarins, and a * confiderable train of attendants, to requefl the Ambaffador's company to dinner, in the name of the King, who had given his minifler a fpecial commiffion to make this invitation. It was, accordingly, fignified to this diflinguifhed perfonage, that his Excellency received the meffage with the utmofl refpect, and would, in confequence of it, go on fhore on Tuefday morning, at ten o'clock. After this conference, the Chinefe minifler, and his fuite, returned in their barges, which were decorated in a very gaudy manner. They were faluted on their departure from the fhip with five guns. H 2 In ( 52 ) In the forenoon the AmbaiTador received a vifit from two mandarins, who brought from the King of Cochin China a prefent, confifting of io Buffaloes 50 Hogs 360 Fowls 150 Ducks 200 Bags of rice, and 6 Large jars of famptfoo. The laft is a liquor made in China, and imported from thence. I went alhore in the forenoon and faw the town, the name of which is Fic-Foo. It conlifts of nothing more than a crowd of wretched bamboo huts, though it contains a fpacious market-place, well fup-plied with ducks, fowls, eggs, cocoa-nuts, and fruits. The fur-rounding country is flat, and very fertile : but the natives feem to have little or no idea of cultivation, which would make it the fcene of extreme abundance. Their principal traffic feems to be with their women, by configning them, for a certain conlideration, to thc fociety of Europeans who touch here. They have no coin, but a fort of fmall caxee; and all their filver is in the form of lon 3 ceremony; when, in honour of the birth-day of our moft excellent June-Sovereign, George the Third, he was faluted with twenty-one guns by the Lion, the Hindoftan, and Portuguefe brig. Thc Britiih. troops, with their officers and band of mufic, had been previouily fent afhore to wait his Excellency's arrival. On this day the royal ftandard of Great Britain was difplayed at the main-top-gallant-royal maft; the St. George's enfign at the fore-topgallant ditto i and the union at the mizen. The Ambalfador was received, on his landing, by feveral mandarins with every mark of attention and refpect; when he proceeded, under an efcort of his own troops, to the houfe of the Prime Minifter, where a collation in thc beft manner of thc country was prepared for him. Here his Excellency remained for fome time ; and, after an exchange of mutual civilities, returned to the Lion, when he was faluted by fifteen guns from all the lhips lying at anchor. I went alhore in the afternoon, and purchafed fome fruit and fugar Wednefdays. of a very good quality : it is made in large cakes, and rcfembles fine bread, for which, at fome fmall diftance, it may be actually mif-taken. I alfo faw fix large elephants, which had been brought for the amufement of the mandarins : they appeared to be perfectly innocent, were obedient to every command, and performed many feats of unwieldy agility. Thefe huge animals moved at the rate of eight miles an hour. On this morning the fiek were received on board the (hips from the Friday 7. ftation on more. Mr. Jackfon, mafter of the Lion, went in the cutter to take foundings in the bay; but having gone up the mouth of the river Campvella, which nfes about eighty miles up the country, and forms a confluence with thc ( 54 ) the river that difcharges itfelf into Turon Bay, he inconsiderately began to furvey, and take plans of, the coaft ; but, in attempting to execute this deiign, he, with the feven men who accompanied him, were made prifoners by the natives, who feized the boat, and carried them to the capital city of the kingdom. This very difagreeable intelligence was communicated from thc more by the mandarins, whofe good offices were earneitly folicited by Lord Macartney, and Sir Erafmus Gower, to obtain thc return of thefe men to the fhip. Indeed, this unreflecting conduct of the mailer might, as it was apprehended, be attended with confequences that would have interrupted the courfe of the embafly; as the country of Cochin China is tributary to the Chinefe empire, and fends an annual Ambaflador to the court of Pekin; fo that all this bufinefs might have been mifreprefented in fuch a manner to the Chinefe government, as to have leffened the good difpofitions we were difpofed to believe that they entertained towards the Britifh embafly. In fhort, it appeared, that very ferious apprehenfions were entertained on that fubject, by thofe who were the belt qualified to form a right judgment of the policy and temper of the court which was the object of our deltination. Tuefday j i. Mr. Niaung, one of the interpreters, went on fhore with fome of the Ambaflador's fuite, to inquire concerning the Britifh prifoners, and he was informed by the mandarins, that they had been releafed, and were on their return. Wcdnef- William Tothill, Efq. purfer of the Lion, died this morning, after d3yi2> anillnefsofa few days. The King of Cochin China fent another large prefent of rice to the Ambaffador. Thc ( ss ) The body of Mr. Tothill was interred on fhore with every poffible »7*3-mark of refpect and regard: Sir Erafmus Gower alfo ordered an in- june. fenption to be cut in wood, which was afterwards placed on his hurfdayj> grave. At four o'clock in the afternoon Mr. Jackfon returned with the cutter and his men, from their imprifonment; during which period they had undergone the feverelt fufferings both in body and mind j and no circumfUnce, but their belonging to the Britifh embaffy, could have preferved them from being put to death. CHAP, C HAP. HJ. Leave Turon Bay. Sir George Staunton, &c. fail in thc Jackall for Macao. Enter the Yellow Sea. Lieut. Campbell goes to Met tow. Pre fent from the mandarin of Chufan. Number of jlck on board the Lion. Mejfrs. Huttner and Plumb goto Met tow to arrange the landing of the emba/fy. A mandarin arrives on board. The foldiers, mechanics, and fuite go on board the junks, with the prefents, baggage, &c. The Ambaffador lands at Mettow\ Defcription of that place. . 1793' j A/T four in thc afternoon weighed and fet fail from Turon Bay. June, Sunday 16. i r ■ Thurfdayao. The weather was moderate and fair. At fix P. M. faw the land north-north-caft; at eight the body of the Grand Ladrone bore north-north-ealt. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, with one of Lord Macartney's fecre-taries, were charged with letters and bufincfs to the commillioners, Mclfrs. Brown, Irvine, and Jackfon, who were fent from England to notify in China the expected embaffy, and who were then at Macao. They accordingly fet fail in the Jackall brig, accompanied by the Clarence, for that place, to execute their commiifion. Mr. Coa and Mr. Niaung, the Chinefe interpreters, accompanied them on the occafion, with the deiign to proceed over land to the place of their nativity. Thefe worthy and amiable men took a very affectionate leave of their friends on board the Lion, with whom they had made fo long a voyagei < 57 \ . voyage; but with a]l the impatience natural to thofe who had been i removed at fuch a diftance, and for fo great a length of time, from v their relations, friends, and native land. At half pah: eight in the morning we came to anchor in eleven fathom water, on the north point of 'the Grand Ladrone ifland. Thc Jackall and Clarence returned from Macao. Sir George Staun- Sunday ton foon after came on board; and, from the intelligence communicated to him by the Commiflioners, the moft fanguiue hopes were entertained that this extraordinary and important cmbally would be crowned with fuccefs. We now entered the Yellow Sea, when nothing material happened, that can juftify particular defcription, till we arrived at the end of this branch of our voyage. In our paffage, we faw many iflands, and occafionally met with Chinefe junks, fifhing-boats, and other circumfiances, which denoted our approach to that part of thc continent to which we were deftined. There being feveral rocks on the Chinefe coaft, in the Yellow Sea, that had no denomination in any chart, Sir Erafmus Gower thought proper to name them after the three principal characters of the embafly. Thus we find our journals contain, in this part of the voyage, the names of Cape Macartney ; Cape Gower, and Staunton's Ifland. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, the Lion came to an anchor in July Jangangfoe Bay; Mettow Iflands bearing from north, to north-weft unday by weft, two miles off fhore. Lieut. Campbell, with Mr. Huttncr, Mr. Plumb, and Lieut. Om-maney, went in the cutter to Mettow, to be informed if there was any track by which the Lion could enter the river, or if there was any river on that coaft, which was navigable for lhips of her burthen, and I by ( 5.3 ) by whofe navigation me could make a nearer approach to the capital. If thc ahfwers to thefe inquiries did not prove fuisfaclory, thofe gentlemen were then to concert meafures with the mandarin of the place for the difembarkation of the fuite there. Monday 22. The brig Endeavour arrived from Macao and Canton with difpatches from the Commiffioncrs. Tuefday 23. This morning a'mandarin of Chufan- fent a pre fent of twelve fine. fmall bullocks, a number of hogs, with a large quantity of fruit, garden fluff, and rice, Thurfday2$. The cutter returned with Lieut. Campbell and his company, who gave a very favourable account of the hofpitality of the Chinefe at Mettow; where they were not only received with the greateft civility, but furnifhed with every poffible accommodation, and fupplied with the greateft. plenty and abundance. At the fame time Mr. Campbell' reported the abfolute impracticability of proceeding further, as the whole way to the mouth of the river forms a chain of fhcals, while aj bar runs acrofs the entrance of it, which is not more than fix feet deep, even at high water. In confequence of this report, Sir Erafmus Gower refolved to proceeel no fuithcr. Saturday 27. The report of the furgeon amounted to ninety-three men lick on board the Lion. The Jackall and Clarence failed with Mr. Huttner and Mr. Plumb to Mettow, to make arrangements with thc mandarins for the landing of the embaffy, and to fix the time when the Ambaffador fhould go on fhore: the rcfult of whofe commiffion was, that large junks would be fent for the reception of the fuite and baggage, as foon as the wind ferved. a pre- A prefcnt of fixteen bullocks, thirty-two fine large fhecp, fome «793-hogs, with vegetables, tea, fugar, &c. was fent on board the Lion. A Auguft. principal mandarin alfo came on board from one of the junks, and dined Fdda^ with Lord Macartney; where he appeared in a very aukvvard fituation, as the Chinefe do not know the ufe of knives and forks. This officer finally fettled with his Excellency that the fuccceding Monday Ihould be the day of his difembarkation ; but that the heavy baggage, CvC. Ihould be previoully tranlhipped into the junks. The mandarin cxprelTed great furprife at our wooden palace, and could fcarce believe the various arrangements and wonderful conveniences of it. lie was hoiiled into one of our boats in thc accommodation chair ; a ceremony with which he appeared to be infinitely delighted. A mandarin came on board to dinner. The prefents, baggage, Sunday 4., &c. were all fhipped into the junks; on board which velTels thc foldiers, mechanics, and great part of his Excellency's fervants, were alfo fent. This morning at four o'clock feveral junks came along fide the Lion Monday $, to receive the remainder of the Ambaffador's baggage. His Excellency then took his breakfaft on board, and was joined by the remainder of his fuite from the Hindoftan. At eight o'clock Sir Erafmus Gower gave orders for the fhip's company toman fhip, previous to his Excellency's difembarkation, which took place almoft immediately ; when he was faluted with three cheers from the feamen, and thc difchargc of nineteen guns from the Lion and Hindoftan. At nine o'clock the remainder of the fuite took their ftations on different junks ; the Ambaffador, Sir George Staunton and fon, having gone on board the Clarence brig, the accommodations of the junks being not only very inconvenient, but extremely dirty, and otherwife very unlit to receive them. I 2 The The number of junks employed on this occafion for the reception of the fuite and baggage, amounted to twenty fail, of about an hundred tuns burthen. At two o'clock in the afternoon we faw the town and fort of Mettow ; at three the junks came to anchor at the mouth of the river, where we found the Jackall, Clarence, and Endeavour arrived before us. From thc feveral fhort windings at this part of the river, we were obliged frequently to anchor and weigh, in order to avoid the fhoals. At four the whole fleet came to anchor oppofite the palace of the principal mandarin. The town, though extenfive, has not the charm of elegance or the merit of uniformity ; indeed, its lituation is fuch as to exclude any encouragement to beautify and adorn it, as it is fituated on a fwamp, occafioned by the frequent overflowing of the fea, notwithflanding the precaution of the inhabitants to make an embankment on the lhore. The houfes, or huts, for they rather deferve the latter name, are built altogether of mud, with bamboo roofs: they are very low, and without either floors or pavements. At a fmall diflance from the town there are feveral buildings of a very fuperior form and appearance, which belong to the mandarins of the place: they are conflrucf ed of ilone and wood; the body of the houfe being of the former, and the wings and galleries, which are very pretty, and painted of various colours, of the latter material: they are of a fquare form, and three ftories in height j each ilory having a furrounding range of pa-lifadocs, which are richly gilt and fancifully painted. The lower Ifory, or ground floor, is fronted with piazzas, which are ornamented in the fame manner. The wings project on each fide the body of the houfe, and appear to contain a confiderable range of apartments. a Each ( 6' ) Each mandarin is attended by a great number of guards, confifting *793* Doth of infantry and cavalry, who live in tents pitched round the refi- Augoft dence of the perfonage whom they fcrve. Notwithstanding its unfavourable fituation, the immenfe crowd of fpecfators who affembled to fee the Ambaflador come on fhore, proves Mettow to be a place of prodigious population. Many of thefe curious people were on horfeback and in carriages; fo that the banks of the river where our junks lay at anchor were entirely covered with them. The only fort in this place confifls limply of a fquare tower, and fecms to have been constructed for ornament rather than public utility; for, though it ftands on the very margin of the fea, and commands the entrance of the river, not a fingle piece of ordnance appears on the walls. The breadth of this part of the river is about a furlong, and the colour of the water is muddy, refembling that of the Yellow Ocean with which it mingles : its depth is very unequal, being in fome parts nine, and in others fix feet deep; but in no part lefs than two. At the entrance, as has been already mentioned, there is a bar or bank of land, which ftretches acrofs it, and at full tide has not more depth than fix or feven feet; though on the fide towards the fea, and at a few yards only from the bar, there is upwards of fix fathoms water. The environs of the town prcfent, on both fides the river, an expanfe of fiat country. The foil is rich, and can boafl extraordinary fertility. In the evening we received from the mandarin a very refrefhing and acceptable prcfent of dreffed meats and fruits. chap. C H A P. IV. An account of the mandarin appointed to conduit the accommodations for thc embajfy. Various prefents of provifions. Grofs habits of the Chinefe refpecling their food. 'Defcription of the junks. Order of thofe vejfels fitted up for thc accommodation of the Brilifi Ambaffador and his fuite. »793- TudUiy6 ThE whole of this morning was employed in tranfhipping the baggage to the accommodation junks, hired for the embaffy by Van Tadge-In, a mandarin of the firft clafs, who had been appointed by thc Emperor to conduct the bufinefs of the embaffy, in every thing that related to thc refidence, provifions, and journey of the fuite. This perfon became interefling to us, as he was appointed to attend thc embaffy during the whole time we mould remain in China. He was about five feet nine inches in height, flout, well made, and of a dark complexion, but of a remarkable pleafing and open countenance : his manners and deportment were polite and unaffected; and the appointment of fuch a man, fo admirably qualified to fulfil the peculiar duties to which he was nominated, gave us a very favourable opinion of the good fenfe of thc Chinefe government, and ferved to encourage our hopes of fuccefs in the important objects of this diflinguilhed embaffy. We received at noon, from the mandarin's boat, which was accompanied by Mr. Plumb, Lord Macartney's interpreter, a quantity of raw beef, with bread and fruit: the beef, though not fat, is of a very good quality; but thc bread, though made of excellent Hour, was by no means pleafant to our palate : as the Chinefe do not make ufc of ycaft, ( H ) yeaft, or bake it in an oven, it is, in fact, little better than common dough. 1793. The fhape and fize of the loaves are thofe of an ordinary wafh-ball A'ufti cut in two. They are compofed of nothing more than flour and water, and ranged on bars which are laid acrofs an iron hollow pan, containing a certain quantity of water, which is then placed on an earthen Hove : when the water boils, the veffel, or pan, is covered over with fomcthing like a (hallow tub, and the fleam of the water, for a few minutes, is all the baking, if it may be fo called, which the bread receives. In this flate we found it neceffary to cut it in flices and toaff it, before we could reconcile it to our appetites. The fruits,, which made a part of this prefent, coniifted of apples, pears, Iliad-docks, and oranges of a fuperior flavour. In the afternon we received another very large fupply of provifions -ready drelfed, confifting of beef, mutton, pork, whole pigs, and poultry of all forts, both roaft and boiled. The roaft meat had a very Angular appearance, as they ufe fome preparation of oil, that gives it a glofs like that of varnifh ; nor was its flavour fo agreeable to our palates, as the diflics produced by the clean and flmple cookery of our European kitchens. Their boiled meat,, being free from the oily tallc of that which is roafted or baked, was far preferable. We were, however, in fome degree, affected by the accounts we had heard of the indifference of the Chinefe, concerning their food;. and that they not only cat all animal food without distinction, but do not difcard even fuch as die of difeafes, from their meals. This cir-cumftancc made feveral of our party very cautious of what they eat j and as to their hafhes and flews, many refufed their allowance of thefe difhes, from the apprehension of their being compofed of unwholefome Jflcfh. But ( 64 ) '793« But it was not merely from the information of others that we felt a dif-Auguft. guft at Chinefe cookery, as we had ocular demonitr ation of the grofs appetites of the Chinefe people. The pigs on board the Lion being affected with a difordcr, which is always fatal to thefe animals, feveral of them were thrown overboard;—which circumftance being obferved by the Chinefe belonging to the junks, they inftantly got out their boat* and picked up thefe difeafed carcafes, which they immediately cut up, and having drclfed a part of them, appeared to make a very comfortable meal, that was accompanied with frequent marks of dciifion at the Engliih for their foolilh extravagance. We were at firfl: difpofed to believe that this grofsnefs of appetite was confined to the lower claffes of the people, who were generally in fuch a flate of indigence, as to be glad to obtain meat in the accidental way which we have juft mentioned : but we afterwards learned, that the more independent claffes of people, and even the mandarins them-felves, are not exempt from a cuftom, in domeflic ceconomy, at which the eager appetite of the ftarving European would revolt. In the warm feafon, this part of the country fwarms with mof-quitos, that tormenting infect which is fo diflrefling to the inhabitants of the warmer climates. This morning I went on board the accommodation junk, occupied by Captain Mackintofh, of the Hindoftan, who was required to accompany the embaffy to Pekin. The fquadron, in the mean tune, received inftructions to return to Chufan harbour, and to wait there till further orders. The junks* or Chinefe veffels, are formed on a conftruction I never remember to have feen in any other part of the world. They are built of beach wood and bamboo, with a flat bottom : they are of different fizes, from thirty to an hundred feet in length ; the breadth of Wednef-day .7. of the lafgeft are from twenty to thirty feet, and thc fmafler ones ill proportion. In this junk there; was on the fir ft deck a range of Very neat anil commodious apartments, which were clean, and decorated with paintings. They confifted of three fleeping apartments, a dining parlour, with a kitchen, and two rooms for lervants. The floor is made to lift up, by hatches all along the junk, to each of which there is a brafs ring : beneath is an hold, or vacant fpace for containing lumber; and the quantity of goods that can be flowed away in thefe places is almoil incredible. On the upper or main deck, there is a range of fourteen or fifteen fmall chambers, allotted for the ufc of the men belonging to the junk, and an apartment for the captain or owner of the veffci. In the lower deck, the windows are made of wood, with very ftnail fquare holes, covered with a fort of glazed, tranfparent paper ; the lathes arc divided into four parts, and made to take out occasionally, either to admit the air for coolncls, or to fweeten the apartments. On the outfide there is a coloured curtain, that extends from one end of the junk to the other, which, in very hut wealher, is unfurled and fixed up to lhadc the apartments from the heat of the fun. There are alfo fhutters, which fhde before the windows on the outfide, to prevent the effects of cold weather, or any inclemency of the feafon. There is a gang-way on both fides of thc vcffel, about thirty inches broad, by way of paffage, without entering into any of the apartments; and though many of thefe vclfels carry from two to three hundred tons, they only draw three feet water, fo that they can be worked with -cafe and fafety in the moftfhoalv rivers. Some of thefe junks have two mails, though, in general, the}' have but one, with a very aukward kind of rudder; and the more elegant veffels of this kind, which 1 have jult defcribed, are only calculated for the navigation of a river; K as as they are not constructed with fufficicnt. ftrengtli to rclift thc violent: effects of wind and weather. It is ufual for all veffels which navigate the rivers in China, to-have a lamp, with a lighted candle in it,, hoifted to the malt head, as foon. as it is dark, to prevent thofe accidents which, would otherwife very frequently happen from veffels running foul of each other. Thefc-lamps are made of tranfparcnt paper, with characters printed on it, to notify what junk it is, or die rank of any paffengers on board it: if they are perfons of diftinction, three of thefe lanterns are ufually fufpended. The veffel is alfo illuminated in other parts of it, particularly round the deck; and the number of lights are generally proportioned to the rank of the perfons who occupy the junk. The fame fervice which thc lamps perform by. night, as far as relates to notification, is performed in the day-time by filken enfigns, whofe printed characters fpecify in the fame manner, the exifting c ire urn fiances of, the veffel. It may be eafily conceived, that, from the prodigious number of junks which navigate this river, a very pkafmg, and fometimes, indeed, a grand effect is produced, by fuch an aflemblagc of lights moving along thc water. I am not qualified to determine whether it proceeds from the domef— tic policy of the Chinefe, from prejudice, in favour of long-eftabhfhcd; habits, or an ignorance of mechanics, but they, have not made any advancement in the feience of naval architecture : the junks of the*. laft centuryr and thofe of thc prefent day, are invariably, the fame. Thc order in which the veffels, appropriated for the purpofe of conveying the Britifh embaffy to Pekin, proceeded, was as follows The grand Mandarin, and his fuite, in five junks. Junk, No. i. His Excellency the Earl Macartney. Ditto, — 2. Sir George and Mr. Staunton, -i-— — 3* Mr. Plumb, the Chinefe interpreter. 3 J^k, ( 67 ) Junk, No. 4. Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Lieutenant Pariih, and Lieutenant Crewe. Ditto, — 5. Captain Mackintofh, of the Hindoftan, Mr. Maxwell, Doctor Gillan, and Mr. Huttner. — — 6. Mr. Barrow, Mr. Winder, and Mr. Baring, (fon of Sir Francis Baring). •- — 7. Doctor Scott, Doctor Dinwiddie, Mr. -Hkkey, and Mr. Alexander. Thefe, with the junks which contained the foldiers, mechanics, and Servants, completed the naval procehaon. CHAP. V. s C H A P. V. Lord Macartney leaves Mettow, and fets fail for Pekin. Beauty and fertility of the country. Various circumfiances of the voyage. The foldiers of China defer ibed. The navigation of the river. Some account of the tea-tree, with thc manner of making tea as a beverage. Prodigious population of the country. Arrive at the city of Tyen-fing. Some account of it. A Chinefe play. Defcription of the mandarin*s palace, &c*. v_J_7^L-^ THIS morning the Ambaffador paid a vifit to the principal man-Tlw^dws darin 01 Mettow, to take leave, on his departure for Pekin : and at eleven o'clock, the fleet of junks, with his Excellency and the whole fuite on board, proceeded on their voyage. We received a large fupply of provifions, ready dreffed, together with tea, fitgar, bread, vegetables of all forts, and a large quantity of fruit, confifting of apples, pears, grapes, and oranges, which never failed to make a part of thofe fupplies for the table with which the embafly was at all times furnilhed, in the greateft abundance. We alfo received, at this time, a provision of wood and charcoal, for culinary ufes. I made fome inquiries after mineral coal, but it was not known at Mettow, nor could I learn whether it is found or ufed in any part of China, We had proceeded but a very few miles up the river, when the country ctifplayed profpeefs of fuch peculiar novelty and beauty as would baffle any attempts of mine to defcribe them. The view on all fides prefents fields rich in various cultivation, with extenfive meadows covered with fheep and the fineft cattle. Their gardens appeared to be equally difpofed for domeftic ufe and pleafure; producing ( 69 ) producing at the fame time abundance of vegetables, and the fineft \ .' * fruits; while the eye was charmed with the beauty of their fcenery, and A"»uft* the gaiety of their decorations. On the fir ft glimpfe of their grounds, whether applied to the more folid ufes of agriculture, or the more elegant arrangement of their gardens, in railing grain and efculent plants, or cultivating fruits and flowers, I was convinced that the Chinefe were no mean proficients in botanical knowledge, as well as the fciencc of farming, and the art of ornamental gardening. I alfo obferved, that the fields were as well guarded by fences, both in the form of hedges and ftone walls, as any 1 had fcen in the cnclofed parts of my own country. During the day, the guards belonging to thc mandarin marched along the banks of the river; and at night pitched their tents oppofite to the ftation where the junks lay at anchor j when they kept a regular watch till the hour of the morning when the fleet proceeded on its voyage. Thc front of each tent was adorned with lamps, fo that the camp on fhore, and thc junks on thc water, formed together a confiderable illumination, and produced a very uncommon and pleating effect. The centinels on fhore have, each of them,, a piece of hollow bamboo, which they ftrike at regular intervals, with a mallet, to announce that they arc awake and vigilant in their refpective ftations. This, cuftom, as I was informed by the peyings, or foldiers themfelves, is, univerfal throughout the Chinefe army. We were awakened at a very early hour by the found of the gongs, Friday^, which was the fignal. for failing. The gong is. an inftrumcnt of a circular form, made of brafs\ it refembles, in fome degree, the cover of a large ftewpan, and is ufed as bells or trumpets are in Europe, to convey notice, or make lignals from one place to another : when they are flruck with a large wooden mallet, which is covered with leather, a found is produced that may bcdiftindly heard at the diflance of a league* W.e I 70 ) We received the ufual fupply of provifions, with the addition, for the firfl time, of fome wine of the country in a Hone jar: its colour is nearly that of what is called Liihon wine in England, and is equally clear : it is rather itrong, but is of an unpleafant flavour, being harm and lliarp, and, in lhort, has more the tafle of vinegar than wine. The jar which contained it was equal, in meafure, to three Englifh gallons j and the mouth of it was covered with a large plantane leaf, clofed in with a cap of clay ; on which was fixed a red label, marked with certain Chinefe characters, to denote, as I fuppofe, the contents of the sreffel. We palled feveral very populous towns on both fides of the river, but fituated at fome diilance from it. The Ambaffador, however, received military honours from the foldiers belonging to them, who were drawn up on the bank, on either fide, contiguous to their re-fpectivc cantonments j and furrounded by an immenfe crowd of fpec-tators. The uniform of the foldiers confifts of a large pair of loofe, black nankeen trowfers, which they fluff into a kind of quilted cotton Backings, made in the form of boots, They always wrap their feet in a cotton rag before they draw thefe boots over their trowfers ; fhey Add alfo a pair of very clumfy fhoes, made of cotton, the folcs of which arc, at lcaft, an inch 1 hick, and very broad at the points. Thefe trowfers have no waiftband, fo that they lap over, and arc tied with a piece of common tape, to which is generally fufpended a fmall leathern bag, or purfe, to contain money. Thefe foldiers do not ufe -either ihirts, waiftcoats, or neckloths ; but wear a large mantle of black nankeen, with loofe fleeves, which, is edged with nankeen a .red colour. Round their middle there is a broad girdle, ornamented in the center with what appears to he a pebble of about the fize of half-a-crown, though, as I was informed, it is an hard fubftancc ,-or parte made of nee. From this girdle is fufpended a pipe and bag •jto hold .tobacco, on one lido, and a fan on the othei 4 which are annually annually allowed them by the Emperor, as well as a daily portion of tobacco, a plant that grows in. thc utmoft abundance in every part of China.. The Chinefe troops were always, when I fiiw them, drawn up in iingle ranks, with a great number of colours or ftandards, wrhieh are chiefly made of green filk, with a red border, and enriched with golden characters. They wear their fwords on the left fide, but the handle or hilt is backwards, and the point forwards, fo that, whem they draw thefe weapons, they put their hands behind their backs, and unfheath them without being immediately perceived ; a manoeuvre which they execute with great dexterity, and is well adapted for the purpofes of attack, as a foreign antagoniff, who is not accuftomed to this mode of ailault, would be probably wounded, at leaft, before he was prepared to defend himfelf againft it. Under their left arm is flung a bow ; and a quiver, generally containing twelve arrows, hangs on their backs ; others are armed with match-locks of a very nifty appearance.. Their heads are fhaved round the crown, ears, and neck, except a fmall part on the back of the head, where the hair, which is encouraged to grow to a great length, hangs down their backs in a plait, and is tied at the end with a riband. They wear a fhallow ftraw hat very neatly made,, which is neceflanly tied under the chin with a firing, and, is decorated with a bunch of camel's hair,, dyed of a red colour. On alloccafions, fimilar to that which brought thefe troops to the banks of thc river to do military honour to the Britiih Ambaffador, a. temporary arch covered with filk is placed at each end of the line, in which the mandarins fit till. the. proccilion, or perfon to be faluted, appears, when they come forward and make their appearance. Near thefe arches are three fmall fwivels about thirty inches in length, which are fixed in the ground with the muzzle pointing to the air: thefe are difcharged as the perfon to be honoured with the falute palfes the mandarin ( p ) I793'_» mandarin at the end of the line This mode of firing dilutes the Auguft. Chinefe very fenlibly adopt to prevent accidents, obferving, at the fame time in their account of it, that a loaded eun Ihould never be levelled, but at their enemies. In the management of artillery and fire-arms, it is not to be fuppofed that Europeans can derive any one improvement from the inhabitants of the eafl; but we well know, neverthelefs, that very melancholy, and fometimes fatal accidents arc occasioned from the want of fimilar regulations, by the difcharge both of great guns and fmall arms on our days of public rejoicing. The houfes, fcattercd on the banks of the river, were chiefly built of mud, rarely intermixed with fome of a better form, which were conftructed of flone, and finithed with great neatnefs ; producing a very pretty effect, as we paffed them, from the water. The women at thefe places, of whom we faw great numbers, have their feet and ancles univerfally bound with red tape, to prevent, as it is faid, their feet from growing of the natural fize: fo very tight is this bandage drawn round them, that they walk with great difficulty; and when we confider that this extraordinary practice commences with their infancy, it is rather a matter of furprize that they fhould be able to walk at all. If we except this flrange management, or rather mismanagement, of their feet, and their head-drefs, there is very little dillinclion between the drefs of the males and females. The women wear their hair combed back on the crown of the head, and fmoothed with ointment : it is then neatly rolled into a fort of club, and ornamented with artificial flowers and large filver pins ; the hair on the back part of die head is done up as tight as poflible and inferted beneath the club. In every other refpect their drefs correfponds with that of the men : they differ, indeed, in nothing from that of the foldiers, which lias been already defcribed, but that they bear no arms, have no red border on their clothes, or tuft of hair on sficir hats. A* ( 73 ) As far as i could judge of the length of this day's voyage, it could 1793-not have exceeded twenty-four miles ; in the courfe of which we rec- Auguft. koned upwards of fix hundred junks that paffed us, and i may fay, without the lead fear of exaggeration, that we faw twice that number lying at anchor; nor mall i hefitate to add, that, on the moft moderate computation, we beheld at leaft half a million of people. The river, befides the variety and extent of its navigation, is in itfelf a grand and beautiful object, and enriched with an equal diftri-bution of rich and picturefque fcenery : its courfe waves in the fineft meanders ; its banks on either fide are adorned with elegant villas and delightful gardens; while the more diftant country offers the intermingled profpect of fplendid cultivation and landfcape beauty. The fleet came to anchor clofe into the fhore at eight o'clock in the evening. The gongs, as ufual, gave the fignal for weighing anchor, and pro- Saturday * ceeding on our voyage. The weather was extremely hot and fultry, and the country continued to wear that appearance of fertility, which had hitherto diftinguifhed it. We for the firft time faw fome plantations of the tea tree, an object which was rather interefting to the natives of a country, where, though the climate will not admit of its growth, it has defcended, from being a luxury, into a neceffary of life. The tea tree is of a dwarf fize, with a narrow leaf refembling myrtle. It was the feafon when thefe trees were in bloffom, which the Chinefe pluck and dry; and the younger the bloffom is, when plucked, the higher the flavour of the tea is confidered with which it Is mixed. It C 7.4 )■ ig» It is a curious circumftance that, although this province is fo Auguft. abundant in its produce of tea, it appears to be a very fcarce commodity. among the lower clafs of people ; as the men belonging to our junk never failed,, after we had finifhed our breakfaft, to requeft thc boon of our tea-leaves, which they drained and fpread in the fun until they were dry;- they then boiled them for a certain time, and poured them with the liquor into a (lone jar, and this formed their ordinary beverage. When thc water is nearly drawn off,; they, add more boiling water; and in this manner thefe leaves are drawn and re-boiled for feveral weeks. On fome particular occations, they put a few grains>of frelh tea into a cup, and,, after, having poured, boiling water upon it, cover it up: when it has remained in this ftate for a few minutes, they drink it without fugar, an article which the Chinefe. never, mix with their tea. We this day palTed feveral populous villages, compofed of very neat houfes of one ftory, and built of brick ; and from everyone of them the AmbalTador received thofe honours which have been already defcribed. The crowds of people which alfembled to. fee a parade of fo much novelty as the fleet that conveyed the Britifh embaffy, were beyond all .ealculation, and almoft beyond belief, and.gave us a complete idea of the immenfe population attributed to the Chinefe empire. Nor was the ftate of the navigation that appeared on the river lefs aftonilhing ; the junks which we continued to fee at every moment of our paffago, were fometimes fo numerous, that the water was covered with them.. Thc fleet came to an anchor at the ufual hour of eight o'clock in thc evening. Sunday ii. At four o'clock in the morning we. renewed our voyage; the country ftifl appearing in its ufual ftate of fertility and beauty ; and as far as the delighted eye could reach, an uncultivated fpot was no where to be feen. 3 The ( 75 ) The banks of the river were now varied with fields of millet and 1^3. TJce. The llalks of the former are very tall, with branching leaves, AuguftT* and the points of them bear the feed, which is a very principal article of food in this country. The rice grows very much like our corn, and thrives befl in a marfhy foil: I obferved, indeed, that fome of the rice fields were entirely covered with water. About fix o'clock we approached the city of Tyen-fing, where we were met by crowds of Spectators, both in junks and on the Shore, that exceeded all calculation. As we proceeded, we faw a long range of heaps, or ricks, of fait, in ranks, or columns of fifty each, from front to rear: thefe heaps are about eighteen or twenty feet fquare, and twenty-four feet in height, and are covered with matting to preferve them from thc effects of the weather; each of them containing, as I was informed, about five hundred tons of fait. In this order, and without variation, or interruption, the range continued for two miles along thc banks of the river. For what purpofe this immenfe quantity of fait was dc~ pofited there I could not learn ; nor was there any appearance of a manufactory to juftify the idea of its being made there. At nine o'clock we entered the city, amidft the noife and Shoutings of, I doubt not, fome hundred thoufands of fpectators. The houfes of this place are built of brick, and, in general, are carried to the height of two ftories, with roofs of tiles: they were all of a lead colour, and had a very neat and pretty appearance. The place, however, is not formed on any regular plan: thc Streets, or rather alleys, are fo narrow, as to admit, with difficulty, two perfons to walk abrcatt ■; and have no pavement. It is, however, ot great extent, and populous beyond all defcription. Before thc palace of the mandarin, a larger body of troops was drawn up than we had yet feen, who carried, at Icalt, one hundred and fifty Standards. L 2 At ( 1* ) »793- At half paft ten, the Ambaffador, attended by all his fuite, guards, ~Auguft. ' &c* m fuM formality, went on fhore to pay a vifit to the chief mandarin of the city, whofe palace is at a fmall diftance from the river, and placed in the center of a very fine garden : it is a lofty edifice, built of brick, with a range of palifadoes in the front, fancifully gilt and painted. The center building has three, and the wings two ftories. The outfide wall is decorated with paintings, and the roof is coloured with a yellow varniih that produces a very fplendid effect. This building contains feveral interior courts, handfomely paved with broad flat ftones. The Ambaffador, and his fuite, were entertained with a cold collation, confifting of diihes dreffed in the fafhion of the country, with tea, fruit, and a great variety of confectionary; a branch of table luxury, which is well underftood by the Chinefe. A play was alfo performed on the occafion, as a particular mark of refpect and attention to the diftinguilhed vifitor. The theatre is a fquare building, built principally of wood, and is erected in the front of the mandarin's palace. The ftage, or platform, is furrounded with galleries; and the whole was, on this occafion, decorated with a pro-fufion of ribbons, and filken ftreamcrs of various colours. The theatrical exhibitions confifted chiefly of warlike reprefentations; fuch as imaginary battles, with fwords, fpears, and lances; which weapons the performers managed with an aftonilhing activity. The fcenes were beautifully gilt and painted, and the dreffes of the actors were ornamented in conformity to the enrichments of the fcenery. The exhibition was varied alfo, by feveral very curious deceptions by flight of hand, and theatrical machinery. There was alfo a difplay of that fpecics of agility which confifts in tumbling, wherein the performers executed their parts with fuperior addrefs and activity. Some of thc actors were dreffed in female characters ; but i was informed at the time, that they were eunuchs, as the Chinefe never fuffer their women to appear in fuch a ftate of public exhibition as the ftage. The performance formance was alfo enlivened by a band of mufic, which confifled en- ^_ i793-tirely of wind inflruments : fome of them were very long, and refem- AuguoT bled a trumpet; others had the appearance of French-horns, and clarinets : the founds of the latter brought to my recollection that of a Scotch bag-pipe; and their mufic, being deltitute both of melody and harmony, was of courfe, very difagreeable to our ears, which are accuflomed to fuch perfection in thofe effential points of mufic. But we had every reafon to be f atisfied with the entertainment, the circumfiances of which were replete with novelty and curious amufement. The drefs of the foldiers was, with their arms and accoutrements, the fame as thofe which we have already deferibed, except in the colour, which was both white and blue, though equally bound with the fame broad red binding : fome of them, on thc prefent occafion, were employed, with long whips, to keep off the crowd from preifing on the proceflion of the Ambaflador and his fuite. His Excellency was faluted, both on his arrival and at his departure, with three pieces of fmall ordnance : and, foon after his return to the veffel the fleet fet fail, amidlt the greateft concourfe of boats and people i ever beheld :—indeed, fo great was the crowd of both, that i confidered it to be impofliblc for us to pafs on without being the wit-neffes of confiderable mifchief. One very old junk that lay at anchor had fuch a number of people onboard it, to fee the extraordinary fight of the day, that the ffernmoit part of the deck yielded to the enormous preffure, and fuddenly gave way, when about forty of thefe curious people fell into the river, and feveral of them were unfortunately drowned. Some were, indeed, faved by clinging to the ropes which were thrown out to them; though it was very evident to thofe who witneffed the accident, that curiofity rather than humanity prevailed on thc occafion; and that the people were more anxious to get a fight of the foreigners, than to fave the lives of their countrymen. We ( 78 ) We received the ufual fupply of provifions of all kinds, and a large jar of wine, from the mandarin, which contained about ten Engliih gallons: it was found to be of a much fuperior quality to that which had been received on a former occafion, and had not only the flavour, but thc colour, of mountain. A confiderable proportion of thefe provifions was difiributed among the crews of the junks, who received fuch an accceptablc mark of kindnefs with the utmoft gratitude and delight. The fuperfluous hofpitality of their country proved, as it ought to do, a fource of occafional plenty to thefe poor people, during the courie of that ■voyage in which we were conducted by their ikill and labour. It may here be mentioned that, as the quota of provifions allotted by thc Chinefe government for the maintenance of the embaffy, was on thc calculation that every individual kept a feparate table, it muff, have been, as it really was, infinitely beyond the pollibility of being confumed by thofe alone for whofe ufe it was prefented. CHAP. VT. CHAP. VI. Violent form of thunder and lightning. Prefents difiributed among the fuite of the embajfy. The manner of towing the junks. The ordinary meals of the Chinefe, and their mode of preparing them. The increafing appearance of the navigation. Strange habit of thc lower claffes of the natives. Pajfed the town of Cho-tang-poa. Circum-fances of the river. A vifit from the mandarin of Tycn-fing to the Ambaffador. His proceffion defer ibed. The ncatnefs, fertility, and various productions* of the fields on each fide-of the river,, A1793- • BOUT four o clock in the morning there was a moff tremendous Auguft itorm of thunder, lightning, and rain, which lafled about two hours. Monday it. The Mandarin of Tyen-fing having fent three parcels of coloured filk, as a prcfent, to be diltributed among thc embafly, Mr. Maxwell, by Lord Macartney's order, delivered two pieces of it to each gentleman in his fuite : but as the remainder did not allow of a fimi-Jar divifion, the lots were all feparated and numbered ; when the mechanics, fervants, and muficians, took their chance in drawing them, and, except three perfons, they all obtained two pieces of the manufacture. The foldiers received, each of them, half a piece : thefe pieces were only half a yard wide, and about feven yards and an half in length; the colours were green, mulberry, and pink; but the lilk was of a very indifferent quality, and would not, in England, Be worth more than eighteen-pence a yard. It may, therefore, be very cafily imagined that, on thc fpot, the prcfent was of little or no -value to thofe who received it. During 1793. During thc great part of this day the junks were towed along by AuguH. men particularly hired for that purpofe : and the mode of drawing thefe veffels, as may be fuppofed, is very different from that employed on iimilar occafions in any of the European rivers. On all the rivers of China there are large bodies of men, whofe bufinefs it is to drag, or tow the junks, when the wind or tide fails. The method of proceeding in this bufinefs is by fattening one rope to the malt, and another to the head of the junk, which, being properly fecurcd, the draughtfmen take the rope on fhore along with them j the length of which muft depend, in a great meafure, on the breadth of the river. Thefe men have, each of them, apiece of wood, about two feet and an half in length, with a piece of ftout cord at each end, by which it is fattened to the ropes attached to the junk : thefe pieces of wood being-thrown over their heads, reft upon their breafU, and by leaning againfl them the towers increafe the power of their exertions : they are thus har-netted, if I may ufe the expreffion, in a ftrait line, at the diftancc of about a pace and an half from each other, and when they are all ready, the leader of them gives the fignal: they then begin a particular kind of march, the regularity of whofe ftep is cffcntial to the draft of the veffel, and can only be maintained by a fort of chime which they chant on thc occafion : this chime, or cry, is a kind of brief fong; but the words, as far as 1 could learn, have no more meaning annexed to them, than the bawling tones employed by our feamen, as notices to pull at the fame moment: they appeared, however, to give the following diflinct, articulate founds, not altogether unlike fome of thofe which we might hear on the Thames, or the Severn.—Hoy-alla-hoya;—which word, for it is delivered as one, was regularly fuccceded by the following ones—hoya, hoya, hoy—waudi-hoya. Thefe words are fung in a regular tune; and fo univerfal is this cuftom among the clafs of labouring Chinefe, that they cannot perform the moft ordinary work, where numbers are employed together, ■without the aid of this vocal accompaniment; which I was difpofed to think, had fome agreeable notes in it. 4 it It feemed, indeed, to be neceffary that thefe poor men mould have i793, confolation to fupport, or fome aid to atlift, them in the prodigious ^^"^^ labour of dragging thefe large junks, both night and day, which is frequently increafed by muddy banks, and marihy ihores, where I have Sometimes feen them wading up to their very Shoulders, and dragging one another, as well as the veifel, after them. This morning, at feven o'clock, we received our ufual fupply of Tuefday c;, provifions, which we were obliged to drefs ourfelves, as the Chinefe are fo very dirty in their mode of cookery, that it was impofhble for thc inhabitants of a country where cleanlincfs is fo prevailing a cir-cumftance of the kitchen, unlcfs impelled by fevere hunger, to fubmit to it. Their manner of dreffing meat is by cutting it in very fmall pieces, which they fry in oil, with roots and herbs. They have plenty of foy and vinegar, which they add by way of faucc. The diet which the common people provide for themfelves is always the fame, and they take their meals, with the utmofl regularity, every four hours: it confifls of boiled rice, and fomctimes of millet, with a few vegetables or turnips chopped fmall, and fried amongft. oil : this they put into a bafon, and, when they mean to make a regale, they pour fome foy upon it. Their manner of boiling rice is the only circumflance of cleanlinefs which I have obferved among them : they take a certain quantity of rice, and wafh it well in cold water ; after which it is drained off through a fieve : they then put the rice into boiling water, and when it is quite foft, they take it out with a ladle, and drain it again through a fieve: they then put it into a clean veffel, and cover it up; there it remains till it is blanched as white as fnow, and as dry as a crufl, when the rice becomes a moll excellent fubflitute for bread. The table on which they eat their meals is no more than a foot from the ground, and they lit around it on thc floor: the veffel $f rice is m thca ( 8* ) k -WW' then placed near it, with which each perfon rills a fmall bafon j he Aujuih then with a couple of chop-flicks picks up his fried vegetables, which he eats with his rice j and this food they glut down in a moft voracious manner. Except on days of facrifice or rejoicing, the common people of China feldom have a better diet. Their drink, which has already been defcribed, is an infufion of tea-leaves.. We this day palfed feveral very populous villages, though, as far as our experience qualified us to determine, there is no fuch thing as a village which is not populous ; and perhaps, after all, among the wonders of this country the population is the greateft. The fhores of the river was this day lined with fuch crowds of people to fee us pafs, as to baffle all defcription; and the number of junks which we paffed in this day's voyage, I folcmnly believe, without the leaft exaggeration, amounted to at leaft four thoufand: and if I calculate the people we faw in the different villages at twenty times that number, the account, I believe, is very much below the reality. At each of thefe places the Ambaffador was faluted in the manner which has been already defcribed. Although it is not a very delicate picture to prefent to the attention of my readers, yet, as I profefs to give a relation of every thing which I faw, I fhall not omit to mention., that, this evening, two of the Chinefe belonging to our junk ftripped themfelves naked, and, picking off the vermine, which were found in great plenty on their clothes, proceeded to eat them with as much eagernefs and apparent fatisfac-tion, as if they were a gratifying and delicate food. Wednef- Tne weather was extremely hot and fultry, and the mufquitos fo foy J4» troublcfome during the night, as to prove a very painful interruption to our repofe. We ( 83 ) We continued to pafs very extcnfive fields of millet and rice, aid the country, as we proceeded, maintained its character for fertility, cultivation, and abundance; though in feveral parts it alfumed a more varied and regular appearance than we had yet feen. In the forenoon we palled alarge town, whofe name is Cho-tung-poa. It is pleafantly fituatcd on the banks of the river, and is a place of confiderable extent. The houfes are of brick, and in general do not afcend beyond one flory: they were here remarkable for thc wall* which were erected in the front of them, over which a great number of ladies were feen taking a view of the junks as they palled before the town; while the fpectators, whom curiofity had led to the banks of the river, were, as ufual, in fuch numbers as to renew our aftoniih-ment. We now came to a fork of the river, and over the lateral branch of it there were two bridges of two arches, built of flone on a pleafing form, and conflructed with the appearance of no common architectural knowledge. At a fmall diflance from them were the ruins of another bridge of one arch.: it had been built of hewn flone, and the part which remained bore the appearance of a regular i\^gr\ and European mafonry. At a fmall diflance from this ruin, and on a gentle eminence, was the feat or villa of the mandarin. It is a new flone building of two florics, in a pleafing flile of architecture, with a flight of flcps riling to the door. The approach to it was through a neat gateway, which was not quite fmifhed; the mafons were then employed in completing it j and I was rather furprifed on obferving that their fcaffolding was erected on the fame principle, and their work conducted very much in the fame manner, as is employed and practifed by the builders of our own country. The junks were towed during the greateft part of this day ; and at fix o'clock in the evening they came to an anchor near thc fhore. m 2 in ; ( > In a-rliort time after the fleet came to it., moorings, the grand mandarin of Tyen-fing, efeorted by a numerous train of attendants, came to pay a viiit to the Britiih Ambaffador^. The proceflion commenced with an advanced troop of men, who were employed in ihouting aloud as they, came: on,, in. order to notify the approach of the mandarin, that the way might be cleared from-paffengers, and any accidental obftacle removed which might impede his progrefs. This party was followed at fome diftance by two men, carrying large umbrellas of red fiLk, with a broad pendent curtain of the fame materials: they, are ufed to flicker the palankin from the. burning rays of thc fun. A large band of ftandard-bearers then fuc-ceed.j the foot foldiers follow; the palankin next.appears, which bears, the mandarin, and a large efcort of cavalry clofes the proceffion. Such is-the manner in which perfons of dift.ihc~t.ion travel in China ; and their particular rank and quality is marked by the number of their) attendants. The mandarin of Tyen-fing remained with Lord Macartney> about; an hour; and, on his return, the proceffion was illuminated by a great-number of people bearing lamps and torches, which produced a.veryi fplendid appearance. Thurfdayi5. The heat ftill continued to be extreme: the country varies not in* rhe fertility of its appearance, and the large fields of corn which we< paffed to-day, appeared to be as fine, both as to crop and cultivation,-as thofe which are the boaft of England. We alfo paffed a large plantation of tea, and a very great number of - boxes rangedJ in order,-. for the purpofe of packing the tea, and fending it to Canton. In this day's voyage, the banks of the river appeared'in fuch Various clothing of art and nature, as to diffract the attention; and the alternate view of extcnfive meadows, luxuriant fields, and the moft 3 • beautiful Beautiful gardens, did not fuffer the gratification of the eye, or the mind, to be for a moment fufpended. In the evening I went on fhore, and walked along the banks of the river for a couple of miles j and, on a nearer examination of the corn-fields, I found that the grain, which was now almoft ripe, was of a fuperior quality, and thc-hufbandry equal to that of the EngliiK-farmcr. c hap. c ii a P. VII. Arrive at the city of Tong-tcheiv, where the voyage ends. The cm* taffy difembarks; ceremonies on the occafion. The place appointed for the reception of the prefents and baggage defcribed. Defcription of the building appropriated for the refdence of the Ambaffador and his fuite. The domefiic worfhip of the Chinefe. The entertainment of the embaffy. An account of the city of Tong-tchezv. Circumfiances relative to its civil government. The prefents for the Emperor examined. The artillery exercifed. Vifit from the mandarin. The death of Mr. Eades, and his funeral. The Ambaffador receives notice of the time appointed for his departure for Pekin. As we proceeded on our voyage, the villages became more frequent, ^idfyfti*6. and the people more numerous. We continued to receive our ufual fupply of meat, fowls, vegetables, and fruit; and about five o'clock in thc afternoon of this day, we arrived at the city of Tong-tchew, which is fituatcd at the diflance of twelve miles from Pekin, and where our voyage up this fine river found its termination. It may appear to be a continual repetition of the fame fubject, but the circum-flance appeared to be fo extraordinary, that I cannot fail to repeat it, by obferving that, at this place, the people who covered the banks of the river far exceeded in number any thing that we had yet feen. Soon after the arrival of the fleet at this place, Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton, accompanied by the conducting mandarin, Van Tadge-Jn, went on fhore to infpect the place allotted for the landing the prefents and baggage, which the Chinefe had previoufly erected for that purpofe. It contained about the fpace of an acre, fenced in with matting, and furnilhed with long fheds ma.de of uprights of wood and matting, matting, with a roof of the latter, in order to prevent the packages ^ from being injured by the rain or dew The ground was entirely Auguft. covered with mats, and the place well guarded on all fides by petty mandarins and foldiers. The grand mandarin of the place fent fo inform the Ambalfador that a public breakfafl would be prepared at the temple allotted for the refidence of the embalfy, during its itay at Tong-tehew, on the following morning at feven o'clock; to which Lord Macartney and his whole fuite, including mechanics, foldiers, and fervants, were invited. Notice of this general melfage was confequently given to each junk, and orders were at the fame time iifued to prepare for difembarkation. At fix o'clock this morning two palanquins were fent for Lord Ma- Saturday 17. cartney and Sir George Staunton, who, in about an hour after their arrival, left the junks, and were carried to the temple already mentioned, as the place appointed for their refidence, efcorted by a party of Chinefe foldiers and an immenfe concourfe of fpeclators. Thc brcakkifl confifled of a profufion of flews and made difh.es, meat of all kinds, tea, wines, boiled eggs, with a great variety of fruits, and elegant confectionary. A certain number of coolies, in fmall boats, were ordered to each junk, to remove all the articles belonging to the embalfy to the place already mentioned as prepared for their reception. During the greater part of the forenoon I was employed in taking care that the proportion of baggage committed to my charge, was conveyed in fafety to the fheds. At the gate of this inclofurc there were two Chinefe officers, who infpecled all cafes and packages which were brought from thc junks: they firfl took their dimenfions, of which they appeared to take a written « ( 88 ) 1793* written account, and then parted, as it feemed to mc, a counterpart of Auguft. ' their minute on every fcparate article ; nor was a fmgle box, package, or parcel, hifferexl to pals, till it had undergone this previous ceremony ; which was fpccially ordered, as I was informed, to afecrtam •to the Emperor the quantity of prefents and baggnge in polfcflion of the embaffy. Every exertion was made both by us and the natives to complete the landing of our cargoes from the junks ; and fo much expedition was ufed on the occafion, that the whole of the private baggage, and' a great part of the prefents, were fafely brought on lhore, and placed in the depot, in the courfe of this day. Thc temple, which had been appropriated by thc Chinefe government for the refidence of the Britifh Ambaffador to Tong-tehew, is fituatcd about three quarters of a mile from the river, and about one mile from the city, and ftands on a rifing ground ; the building has a neat appearance, but is fo very low, as to have no claim to that dif-tincfion, which it might be expectedto potiefs, when we confider the purpofes to which it was applied.—It rifes no higher in any part of it 'than one Itory. The entrance to this building is a common fquare gateway, that opens.into a neat, clean court, which was occupied by the foldiers 'belonging to the embaffy, as a kind of barracks : another court beyond it, and to which there was an afcent of three ftcps, contained ieveral fmall buildings, occupied by the Chinefe who belonged to the houfe : immediately adjoining to it, Lord Macartney's fervants occupied a fimBar fituation. Oppofite to the fervants quarter was a fmall fquare building, which is ufed as a place of worlhip, and contains only one room of common dimeniions : in the middle of this chamber there •was an altar, with three porcclanc figures as large as life placed upon it; there were alfo candleilicks on each fide of it, which arc lighted .-regularly every morning and evening, and at fuch other times as perfons ( §9 ) fons come there to pay their devotions. Before thefe images there is a 1793. fmall pot of dull, in which are inferted a number of long matches, AuguiT that are alfo lighted during the times of worfhip. When the period of devotion is pafl, the candles are extinguished, and the flame of the matches blown out, but the matches are left too moulder away. When this ceremony is over, an attendant on the altar takes a foft mallet, with which he flrikes a bell, that is fufpended to it, three times; thc perfons pre fent then kneel before the images, ami bow down their heads three times to the ground, with their hands clafped in each other, which they extend over their heads as they rife: a low bow is then feen to conclude the ceremony of the daily worthip of the Chinefe, which is termed by them, chin-chin-jolh, or worlhip of God. Such is the domeflic mode of worfhip that prevails throughout the whole empire of China, as every inhabitant of it, from the meancil peafant to the Emperor himfelf, has an altar and a deity: the moll wretched habitation is equally furnifhed in regard to its idols, though, as may be fuppofed, in proportionate degrees of form and figure, with the Imperial palace. Nor are thofe who are confined to the occupations of the water without them ; every kind of veffel that navigates the fea, or thc river, being provided with its deity and its altar. The court adjoining to this domeflic chapel is occupied by the Chinefe, and employed as a kitchen : from thence there is a circular entrance to that part of the building which was particularly afligned to the Ambaffador and his fuite. It furrounds a very handfome and fpacious court, which was ufed as a dining apartment on the occafion : on one fide ot it there was an elegant platform, raifed on two fteps, with a beautiful roof, fupported by four gilt pillars; and an awning was flretchcd over the whole court to protect it from the heat of the fun. This place was furnifhed alfo with beautiful lamps, regularly difperfed all around it: they confill of frames made of box-wood, lined with tranfparent filk and flowered N gauze ( 90 ) 'W* gauze of various colours, which, when thc lamps are lighted, add* Augtift. very much to the plealing effect of the illumination. The two principal fides of the court were occupied by the gentlemen of the fuite, who llept in two equal divilions in thefe feparate apartments. Lord "Macartney and Sir George Staunton were each accommodated with a dillinct and feparate wing of the building. At two o'clock dinner was ferved up for the Ambaffador and his-company : it confuted of about one hundred various difhes, dreffed according to the cookery of the country; they confided principally of ftews, and were ferved in fmall bafons: there were neither table-cloths or knives and forks; and. the only method thefe people have of conveying their meat to the mouth is by fmall pointed lengths of wood, or ivory, in the form of pencils.. It is abfolutcly neceffary, therefore, that their folid food Ihould be cut in fmall pieces. During the time of dinner, a great number of Chinefe, who belonged, as I fuppofe, to the mandarin, whofe office it was to fupcrintend the arrangements for accommodation of the embaffy, crowded round the tabic ; when they not only cxpreffed their furprife by peculiar actions and gcflures, but frequently burff into fhouts of laughter. putiday 18. In order to give all poffiblc dignity and importance to thc embafly, a guard of Britiih. foldiers was ordered to attend on the Ambaffador's apartments j but as they were removed from public view, thefe centinels were placed at the outer gate, and the entrance of the inner court, that they might attract the notice of the Chinefe, and elevate the confequence of the diplomatic million, in the general opinion of the people of the country; a circumflance on which thc fuccefs of it was fuppofed, in a great meafurc, to depend. In the feveral apartments of the building appropriated to the refidence and ufes of the embaffy, Chinefe fervants were diftributcd, to fupply thofe who were difpofed to call for drink, with the beverage of C 9' ) of the country: fuch as kie tigau, hot tea ; Hang tigau, cold tea ; with liang fwee, cold water; kie fwee, hot water; pyng fwee, ice water; and any of thefe liquors were ready to be brought whenever they ihould be demanded, from an early hour of the day, till night. This morning I took the opportunity to vifit the city of Tong-tchew, .with its fuburbs ; and with no fmall fatigue, and fome trouble, I tra-verfed the greateft: part of it. It appears to be built in a fquare form, and is defended by a very Arong lofty wall, with a deep ditch on the outride of it in the moll acceilible parts : the wall makes a circuit of about fix miles, is thirty feet high, and fix broad: it has .three gates, which are well fortified; each being defended by ramparts mounted with cannon : there is alfo a flrong guard within them towards the city, in a flate of rqgular duty. Thefe gates arc always fhut at ten at night, and opened at four in the morning; the keys of which are always lodged with the mandarin of the city at night, and returned to the officer of the guard in the morning; on which occafion a report is made of what^ ever may have occurred, and fuch orders are iffucd as circumfiances may require. The houfes of this city are like the greater part of thofe 1 have feen in China, and rife no higher than one flory : they differ, however, irt fome degree, from the common habitations of other places which we have paffed, that they are here almofl univerfally built of wood ; as there is very rarely a flone or brick houfe to be feen, but fuch as are inhabited by the mandarins of the place. The exterior appearance of the houfes is very pleafing from the prettinefs of their decorations; but they a-re mofl wretchedly furnifhed within, if that term can be applied where there is very little or no furniture at all. They have only one apartment behind their fhops, which is without floor or pavement, and mull fcrvc them for every JSJ 2 domcftic ( ^ ) 1793. domeflic ufc and employment. Before the doors of the mops, wooden Aiijjuft,','* pillars are erected, from which an awning is fufpended during thc day, to protect not only the paffengers, but the fhopkeepers themfelves, from the rays of the fun : fome of thefe pillars are confiderably higher than the houfes before which they Hand ; and are not only gilt and painted, but decorated with ftreamers, which ferve as figns to denote the commodities of the particular fhops: the tops of them alfo are frequently mounted with a wooden figure, which ferves as a direction to the fpot. As to variety, either in the form and dimenfions of the houfes or fhops, there is none; for an almoft univcrfal famenefs prevails in the ftreets of this extcnfive city : they differ, indeed, in breadth; and the inhabitants of thofe which are narrow, fpread matting from the tops of the houfes quite acrofs the ftreet, which is a very agreeable circumflance in the hot icafons : there is alfo, for the convenience of foot paffengers, a pavement of four feet in breadth on each fide of every ftreet. Glafs is not any where ufed in China for windows, and the common fubftitute for it is a thin glazed paper, which is paffed on the infide of a wooden lattice: filk, however, is employed for this purpofe in thc houfes of the higher claffes of the people. Tong-tchew is a place of great trade, as appears from the vafi number of junks which we faw lying in thc river before it; and the aflonilhing number of its inhabitants; which is very generally believed, as I was informed by fome of thc rcfident merchants, to amount, at leaft, to half a million of people. During the fummer and thc autumn months the heat here is very fultry and opprciTive ; the winter, however, brings inclemency along with it, as ice of thirty inches thick is preferred here, in fubterranean 5 caverns, caverns, till the hammer. It is contidered as an article of great luxury 1793. among the people, who mix it with their drink, to give it a refreshing Attguft, coolnefs in the hot feafons of thc year. In the courfe of my excurfions through the city, I endeavoured to make myfelf acquainted with the nature of its municipal government. Of this important fubject it is not to be fuppofed that I could learn much : I was, however, in one way or other, made to underfland, that all civil caufes are determined by a certain number of inferior mandarins ex-prefsly appointed to the judicial office; but that their decifions are fubject to the review of the chief mandarin of the place ordiffrict, who may confirm or reverfe them at pleafure : this officer, and his decrees, are alfo fubjecf. to the Viceroy of the province, from whom, in all civil caufes, there is no appeal. In capital offences, the final determination refls with the Emperor alone; though it is very rare indeed, that a criminal is fentenccd to die: but if fuch a circumflance fhould happen in the moft remote corner of the empire, application mull be made to thc Emperor him-felf to annul, to mitigate, or enforce the fentence. Executions, however, are very feldom feen in China. I was very particular and curious in my inquiries on this fubject, wherever I had an opportunity to make them, and not one perfon that was queflioned on the occafion, and fome of them were, at leafl, feventy years of age, had ever feen or known of a capital execution. Nor are the leffer crimes fo frequent as might be expected in fuch a populous and commercial country j as the more obnoxious claffes of them, at leafl, are kept down by the vigour of the police, and the promptitude of punifhment, which follows conviction without the delay of a moment:—a regulation which might, in many cafes, be adopted with the belt effects by the boalled judicature of Great Britain. Nor lhall I he fit-ate to obferve, that whatever may be the defects or excellencies of the Chinefe government, of which I am not altogether qualified to judge, the people of China « ( 94 ) China fccmio be happy and contented under it, and to enjoy as much liberty as is coniiftcnt with the heft arrangements of civilifed fociety. The palaces of the mandarins are the only public buildings which I.could difcover, or \vm informed of, in this extenfive cky : they are built of brick, and appeared to be very fpacious ; but were more remarkable for extent,, ,than elegance or grandeur. J Snifhed this curious excurfion in the evening, when I was not only very much fatigued by my walk, but very much handled by thc curiolity of the people. I was fometimes furrounded by twenty or thirty of them, who preffed lb much upon me, that I was frequently under the necefiity of taking ihclter in lhops, till the crowd that per-fecuted me was difperfed ; and, in return for the protection afforded me, I made fome purchafes of fans and tobacco-pipes, which were formed with curious neatnefs and ingenuity. Mpnday 19. This morning Mr. Barrow, thc comptroller, received :the whole oJF the remaining part of the prefents, which were lodged in the depot already defcribed. Lieut. Parifh of the royal artillery, with a party of his men, attended there to examine the ordnance ftores: they alfo uncafed thc guns, and got them mounted on their carriages: they confifled of fix new brafs field pieces, two mortars, and one wall piece, with a complete artillery apparatus. On the report of theilate of the ordnance, ccc. being made to the Ambaffador, he was pleafed to come to the fheds, attended by Col. Bcnfon, the officers, and other gentlemen, to fee the guns exercifed ; when feveral rounds were fired with great quicknefs, activity, and cxactnefs. His Excellency remained there about two hours, when he returned to his refidence, where the gentlemen of the embaffy dined in the fame manner as on the pre* ceding day, Jn ,the evening the Ambaffador received a vifit from the attendant rpandarin, accompanied by the chief mandarin of the city. The band wa$ ( 95 ) Was ordered on the occafion to play on the platform, and the Chi- ^_*793- Uefe vifitors appeared to be infinitely delighted with the European Auguft. mufic. This evening, at eight o'clock Mr. Harry Eades, one of the mechanics attached to the embaffy, died in confequence of a violent flux, with which he had been for fome time afflicted. Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, was requcfted to order a coffin on the occafion j and, as thefe fad receptacles arc always ready made in China, our departed companion was foon placed, with all pofhble decency, in a fituation to receive the laft act of refpect which we can pay to each other. The coffins of this country are all of the fame fize, and bear a flronger refemblance to a flat-bottomed boat, than to thofe of Europe : they are very ftrong and heavy, and the lid is not nailed elown, as with us, but fattened with a cord. About' eleven o'clock there began a moft tremendous ftorm of thunder, lightning, and rain, which continued without any inter-milfion till four o'clock. This morning the Ambaflador gave orders for the funeral of Mr. Tuefday 20. Harry Eades, which, in order to give the Chinefe a favourable im-preftion even of our funeral folcmnitics, was directed to be performed with military honours,, All the fervants, mechanics, and muficians, attached to the embaffy, were ordered to be in readinefs on the occafion: Col. Benfon alfo iffued orders to the troops to appear with their fide arms, except a ferjeant and fix privates of the royal artillery, who were ordered to be armed and accoutered for firing over the grave. As no clergyman accompanied the embaffy, I was appointed to read the funeral fervice of the Church of England on this melancholy occafion. i 96 ) At nine o'clock thc proceffion began in the following order: Dctatchment of the royal artillery, with arms reverfed. The coffin fupported on men's fhoulders. Two fifes playing a funeral dirge. Thc perfon appointed to officiate at the "grave. The mechanics, fervants, &c. two and two. The troops then followed, and clofed the whole. This proceffion was alfo accompanied by feveral of the gentlemen Monging to the embalfy. Thus we proceeded, with all due folemnity, to thc burying-ground» which is fituatcd about a quarter of a mile from the Ambaffador's. refidence ; and where permit!ion had been granted for the interment of our countryman, with a liberality that wrould not have been prac-tifed in fome of the countries of enlightened Europe. Such a ceremonial, as may well be imagined, had excited the curiofity of the city, and we were attended by a concourfe of fpecfators that the moll interefling, and fplcndid fpe&acles would not affemble in the cities of Europe. On our arrival at the place of interment, the foldiery'formed a circle round the grave, with the firing party Handing on the fide of it. The coffin being placed on two planks of wood, the funeral fervice was then read, when the body was committed with thc ufual ceremonies to the earth, and the party difcharged three vollies over the grave,—-which, according to a cuilom of the country that we cannot reconcile with the general good fenfe of the people, had no greater depth than was juft neceffary to cover the coffin. In this burying-ground there was a great number of marble and flone monuments with inferiptions on them. Some of thefe memorials were gilt, and enriched with various devices of no ordinary fculpturc: this funeral ( 97 ) funeral fpot is very extcnfive, but without any enclofurc. There arc, indeed, no public places of burial, but near large towns and cities; as, in the country, every one is buried on the premifes where he had lived. When the grave was clofed, and this laft act of duty performed to the dead, the proceffion returned in thc fame order that has been already defcribed. The Ambaflador was vifitcd by feveral mandarins, a mark of re-fpett which we were difpofed to confider as'a favourable prognolli-qation of fuccefs in the great objects of this extraordinary million. His Excellency alfo received notice that the following day was appointed for the departure of the embaffy to Pekin, and that every neceffary preparation was made for that purpofe. It is a curious circumflance that the place of refidence appointed for the embaffy, proved, after all, to be the houfe of a timber merchant, whofe yard was adjoining to it: but the communication between them was, on this occafion, clofed up by a temporary fixture of deals that were nailed acrofs it. On making inquiry concerning the truth of what had been fuggefled to me, a Chinefe foldier pointed to the timber yard; and, at the fame time, made me underfland, that the owner of the place fold that kind of wood which was employed in the building of junks. O CHAP, C 93 ) CHAP, VIII. Leave the city of Tong-tchew. The road to Pekin defcribed. Arrive at a large town called Kiyeng-Foo. Halt there to breakfaf. Prodigious cro%vds of people to fee the embaffy pafs. Arrive at Pekin. Some account of that city. CuJIoms and manners of the Chinefe, Leave Pekin. Arrive at the imperial palace named Yeuman-man~ yeumen. 1 HIS morning at two o'clock the general was beat through all the courts of the houfe, as a fignal for the fuite to prepare for their departure. After an hafty breakfaft, the whole of the embalfy was ready to proceed on their journey. The foldiers were firfl marched off to covered waggons provided for them; the fervants then followed^ and were received into fimilar machines; the gentlemen of the fuite next proceeded in light carts drawn by a fingle horfe. Lord Macartney, Sir George Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, were conveyed in palanquins, which were each of them borne by four men. The vehicles which carried the foldiers and fervants were common hired carts, drawn by four horfes, unequally coupled together, and covered with ftraw matting. The harnefs, if it may deferve that name,, was made of rope and cordage. The finglc-horfe earts were covered with blue nankeen, and had doors of lattice work lined with the fame fluff: the drivers walked by the fide of them. At four o'clock this proceffion was in motion, which confiflcd of fixty carts for the foldiers and fervants, and twenty for the conveyance of the gentlemen belonging to the fuite, exclufive of carts for the 1 private private baggage, and the coolies, or porters, employed to carry the *793« prefents and heavy baggage, which were conveyed on their moulders; Augufl. four hundred of whom were employed on this extraordinary occafion. About five o'clock we had quitted the city of Tong-tchew, and entered immediately into a fine level country of the molt, luxuriant fertility, which, as far as the eye could reach, appeared to be one immenfe garden. The road along which we travelled, is not only broad but elegant; and is a proof of the labour employed by the Chinefe government to facilitate the communications between the capital, and the principal parts of the kingdom. The middle of this road confifls of a pavement of broad flag flones about twenty feet wide, and on each fide of it there is fufheient fpace to admit of fix carriages to run abreafl. The lateral parts are laid with gravel flones, and kept in continual repair by troops of labourers, who are flationcd on different parts of the road for that purpofe. At feven o'clock the cavalcade flopped at a large town, whofe name is Kiyeng-Foo. To call it populous, would be to employ a fuper-fluous exprehaon, that is equally appropriate to the whole kingdom, as every village, town, and city; nay, every river, and all the banks of it, teems with people. In the country through which we have paffed the population is immenfe and univerfd : every mile brought us to a village, whofe inhabitants would have crowded our largefl towns; and the number of villas fcattered over the country, on each fide of the road, while they added to its beauty, were proofs of its wealth, Thofe which we approached near enough to examine as we paffed, %vere built of wood, and the fronts of many of them were painted black, and enriched with gilded ornaments. O 2 The The day of our journey from Tong-tchew to Pekin was, I doubt not, a matter of general notification, from the prodigious concourfe of people who abfolutely covered the road ; and, notwithstanding the utmoft exertions of the mandarins to keep it clear, the prelfurc of the crowd was fometimes fo great, that we were obliged to halt, for at leaft a quarter of an hour, to prevent the accidents which might othervvife have happened from the paffage of the carts amidfl this continual and innumerable throng. 1 cannot but add to the obftacles which we received from the curiofity of the Chinefe people, fome fmall degree of mortification at the kind of imprefllon our appearance feemed to make on them : for they no fooncr obtained a fight of any of us, than they univerfally burft out into loud fhouts of laughter : and I muff acknowledge, that we did not, at this time, wear thc appearance of people, who were arrived in this country, in order to obtain, by every means of addrefs and prcpoffeilion, thofe commercial privileges, and political diftinctions, which no other nation has had the art or power to accomplilh. At Kiyeng-Foo, which is about nine miles from Tong-tchew, .the whole cmbaily of all ranks alighted from their refpectivc carriages : here the inferior department found tables fpread for their rcfrefhment in an open yard, but covered at the fame time, with great plenty of cold meats, tea, fruits, &c. while the upper departments were ferved with their regale in fome adjoining rooms of a very miferable appearance. Before the proceffion re-commenced its" progrefs, the conducting mandarin, with his ufual attention, ordered fome Joau, an harfh four white wine, to be offered to the attendants of the embaffy, to fortify their ftomachs, as a confiderable time might probably clapfe before they would obtain any further refrclhment : we were then fummoned to prepare for our departure, when a fcene of confu-fion and difturbance took place among ourfelves, which, whatever its real effects might have been, was not calculated at leaft to give any very favourable favourable impreffion of the manners and difpofitionof the Englifh na- y_*793* tion. Inlhort,from the crowd of people affembled to fee us, the neglect Auguft. of a previous arrangement, and diflribution, of the carts, together with the inconfiderate eagernefs to fet off among ourfclves, it was a matter of no inconfiderable difficulty for the mandarins to affign the people to their refpective vehicles. At eight o'clock we took our leave of thc town of Kiyeng-Foo, which is a very confiderable and extenfive place: thc flreets are broad and unpaved, and thc houfes are built altogether of wood; at leafl in the part which we traverfed there were none conflructcd of any other materials. The fhops made a very pleafing appearance, and teemed to be well furnifhed with their refpective commodities. Of the country, which occupies the few miles from this place to Pekin, I have little to fay, as the crowds of people that furrounded us, cither intercepted the view, or diffracted our attention. At noon we approached the fuburhs of the capital of China, and 1 cannot but feel fome degree of regret, that no alteration was made in the ordinary travelling, and fhabby appearance, of thc embaffy, on flich an important occafion. Whatever reafons there might be to prevent chat difplay, which it poffeffed fuch ample provifions to make, I cannot pretend to determine, but our cavalcade had nothing like the appearance of an embafly, from the firfl nation in Europe, palling through the mail populous city in the world. On entering the fuburhs, we paffed beneath feveral very beautiful triumphal arches, elegantly painted, and enriched with various fanciful ornaments: the upper part of them was fquare, with a kind of pent-houfe, painted of a green colour, and heightened with varnilh ; from the infide of this roof was fufpended the model of an accommodation junk, admirably executed, and adorned with ribbons and. filken flreamers. ± Thefe »793« Thefe fuburbs are very extenfive; the houfes arc of wood, thc greater Aagaft. P^rt of them two flories in height, and their from 1 painted in various colours. The ihops are not only commodious for their refpective pur-pofes, but have a certain grandeur in their appearance, that is enlivened by the very pretty manner in which the articles of the refpective magazines are difplayed to the view of the public, either to diltinguifh thc trade, or to tempt the purchafer. We proceeded gradually through fpacious flreets, which are paved on either fide for the convenience of foot paffengers. The whole way was lined with foldiers, and, indeed, without fuch a regulation, it would have been impoflible for the carriages to have proceeded from the crowd that attended us. At two o'clock we arrived at the gates of the grand imperial city of Pekin, with very little femblance of diplomatic figure or importance : in fhort, for I cannot help repeating the fentiment, the appearance of thc Ambaffador's attendants, both with refpect. to the fhabbinefs of their drefs, and the vehicles which conveyed them, bore a greater refem-blance to the removal of paupers to their parifhes in England, than the ( expected dignity of the reprcfentative of a great and powerful monarch. Pekin, or as the natives pronounce it, Pitchin, thc metropolis of thc Chinefe empire, is fituatcd in one hundred and fixteen degrees of eafl longitude, and between forty and forty-one degrees of north latitude. It is defended by a wall that inclofes a fquare fpace of about twelve leagues in circumference: there is a grand gate in the center of each angle, and as many leffer ones at each corner, of thc wall ; they are flrongly arched, and fortified by a fquare building, or tower, of feven (lories, that fprings from the top of the gateway; the fides of which are flrengthcned by a parapet wall, with port-holes for ordnance. The windows of this building are of wood, and painted to imitate the muzzle of a great gun, which is fo exactly reprefented, that the deception is not difcoverablc but on a very near approach : there ( io3 ) there are nine of thefe windows to each flory on the front towards the fuburhs. Thefe gates are double; the firfl: arch of which is very ilrongly built of a kind of free-flone, and not of marble, as has been related by fome writers : the depth of it is about thirty feet, and in the middle of the entrance is a very flrong door of fix inches thick, and fortified with iron bolts : this archway leads to a large fquare which contains the barracks for foldiers, confifting of mean wooden houfes of two flories: on turning to the left, the fecond gateway is feen, whofe arch is of the fame dimenfions and appearance as that already defcribed, but without the tower. At each of the principal gates there is a flrong guard of foldiers, with feveral pieces of ordnance placed on each fide of the inner entrance. Thefe gates are opened at the dawn of day, and fhut at ten o'clock at night, after which hour all communication with the city from the fuburbs is impracticable j nor will they be opened on any pretence, or occafion whatever, without a fpecial order from thc principal mandarin of the city. The four leffer gates are defended by a fmall fort built on the wall, which is always guarded by a body of troops- The wall is about thirty feet high, and ten feet in breadth on the top: the foundation is of flone, and appears about two feet from the furface of the earth : the upper part, is of brick, and gradually dimi-nifhes from the bottom to the top. Whether it is a folid flructurc, or only filled up with, mortar or rubbifh, is a circumflance concerning which I could not procure any authentic information. This wall is defended by outworks and batteries, at fhort diflances from each other; each of them being flrengthened by a fmall fort, though none of the fortifications are garrifoned but thofe which are attached to the gates; and though there is a breafl-work of three feet high, with port-holes for cannon, which crowns the whole length of the. ( r°4 ) r793; the wall, there is not a fingle gun mounted upon it. On the fide to-Auguft. wards the city, it is, in fome places, quite perpendicular ; and in others, forms a gentle declivity from the top to the ground. It is cuflomary for bodies of foldiers to patrole the wall every night during the time that the Emperor refides in the city, which is from October to April, when his Imperial Majefty ufually goes to a favourite palace in Tartary. From its perfect flate of repair and general appearance, I Ihould rather fuppofe it to be of modern erection, and that many years cannot have paffed away fince it underwent a complete repair, or was entirely rebuilt. The dillance from the fouth gate, where we entered, to the eaflgate, through which wc palled out of the city, comprehends, on the moft moderate computation, a courfe of ten miles. The principal flreets are equally fpacious and convenient, being one hundred and forty feet in breadth, and of great length, but are only paved on each fide for foot paffengers. The police of the city, however, fpares no pains to keep the middle part clean, and free from all kind of nuifance; there being large bodies of fcavengers continually employed for that purpofe, who are affilled, as well as controlled, in their duty by foldiers {rationed in every dillrict, to enforce a due obfervance of the laws that have been enacted, and the regulations which have been framed, for preferving civil order among the people, and the municipal ceconomics of this immenfe city. I obferved, as we paffed along, a great number of men who were fprinkling thc flreets with water, in order to lay the duff, which, in dry weather, would not only be troublefome to paffengers, but very obnoxious alfo to the fhops ; whofe commodities muff be more or lefs injured, were it not for this beneficial and neceffary precaution. Though the houfes at Pekin are low and mean, when confi-dered with refpect to fize and domeflic accommodation, their exterior appearance is very handfome and elegant, as the Chinefe take a great pride in beautifying the fronts of their fhops and dwellings; r dwellings j the upper part of the former is ornamented with a profufion 1793. of golden characters ; and on the roofs of the latter are frequent gal- Auguft. lcries, rich in painting and other decoration ; where numerous parties of women are feen to amufe themfclves according to the fafhion of the country. The pillars, which are erected before the doors of the (hops, are gilded and painted, having a flag fixed at the top, whofe characters fpecify the name and bufinefs of the owner: tables are alfo fpread with commodities, and lines attached to thefe pillars are hung with them. I obferved a great number of butchers fhops whofe mode of cutting up their meat refembles our own ; nor can the markets of London boaft a better fupply of flefh than is to be found in Pekin. My curt-ofity induced me to inquire the prices of their meat, and on my entering the fhop, I faw on a flail before it an earthen Hove, with a gridiron placed upon it; and on my employing a variety of llgns to obtain the information I wanted, the butcher in flan try began to cut off fmall thin flices of meat, about the fize of a crown piece, and broiled as fall as I could eat them. I took about a dozen of thefe flices, which might altogether weigh feven or eight ounces ; and when I paid him, which I did by giving him a firing of caxee, or fmall coin, he pulled off, as I fup-pofe, the amount of his demand, which was one condemn, or ten caxee, the only current money in the empire. I faw numbers of people in other butchers fhops, as I paffed along, regaling themfclves with beef and mutton in the fame manner. The houfes for Porcelain utenfils and ornaments are peculiarly attractive, having a rcw of broad fhelvcs, ranged above each other, on the front of their fhops, on which they difpofe the moll beautiful fpecimens of their trade in a manner full of fancy and effect. Bcfides the variety of trades which are flationary in this great city, there are many thoufands of its inhabitants who cry their goods about, as we fee in our own metropolis. They generally have a bamboo placed P acrofs acrofs their moulders, and a banket at each end of it, in which they Aujuft. carrv. fip;^ vegetables, eggs, and other iimilar articles. There arc alfo great numbers of hawkers and pedlars, who go about with bags llrapped on their moulders like a knapfack, which contain various kinds of Huff goods, the folds of which are expofed to view. In felling thefe Huffs, they ufe the cubit meafure of fixteen inches. Barbers alio are feen running about the flreets in great plenty, with every inflrument known in this country for fliaving thc head and cleanfing the ears : they carry with them for this purpofe a portable chair, a portable Hove, and a fmall veffel of water, and whoever wilhes to undergo o either of thefe operations, fits down in the ftreet, while the operator performs his office, for which he receives a mace. To diftinguifli their profefhon, they carry a pair of large fteel tweezers, which they open with their fingers, and let them clofe again with fome degree of violence, which produces a fhrill found that is heard at a confiderable diflance j and fuch is their mode of fee king employment. That this trade in China is a very profitable one may be pronounced, becaufe every man muft be fhaved on a part of the head where it is impofliblc to (have himfclf. In feveral of the ftrccts I faw perfons engaged in felling off goods by auction : thc auctioneer ftood on a platform furrounded with thc various articles he had to fell; he delivered himfelf in a loud and bawling manner, but the fmiling countenances of the audience, which was the only language I could interpret, fcemed to exprefs the entertainment they received from his harangue. At each end of the principal ftreets, for there are no fquares in Pekin, there is a large gateway fancifully painted, with an handfome roof coloured and varnilhed ; beneath which the name of the ftreet is written in golden characters: thefe arches terminate the nominal ftreet, or otherwife there would be ftreets in fome parts of the city of at leaft five miles in length, which arc formed into feveral divifions by ( lo7 ) by thefe gateways. They are very handfomc, as well as central ob- «FJ3« jects, and are railed in on each fide from the foot pavement. Auguft. The narrow ftreets are enclofed at each end with fmall lattice gates, which are always fhut during the night; but all the confiderable ftreets arc guarded both night and day by foldiers, who wear fwords by their (ides, and carry long whips in their hands, to clear the ftreets of an) inconvenient throng of people, and to clmftife fuch as are refractory in ordinary decorum or good behaviour. Notwithftanding the vaft extent of this place, there is little or no variety in their houfes, as I have before ob ferved, but in the colours with which they are painted; they are in reality nothing better than temporary booths, erected entirely for exterior lhew, and without any view to ftrength or durability. It is very rare, indeed, to fee an houfe of more than one ftory, except fuch as belong to mandarins, and even thofe are covered, as it were, by the walls which rife above every houfe or building in Pekin, except a lofty pagoda, and the imperial palace. There are no carriages ftanding in the ftreets for the convenience of the inhabitants, like our hackney coaches in London : thc higher claffes of people keep palanquins, and others of lefs diftinction have covered carts drawn by an horfe or mule. The opinion, that the Chinefe women are excluded from the view of ftrangers, has very little, if any, foundation, as among the immenfe crowd affembled to fee the cavalcade of the Engliih embalfy, one fourth of the whole at leaft were women ; a far greater proportion of that fex than is to be feen in any concourfe of people whom curio-ftty aifembles in our own country : and if the idea is founded in truth, that curiofity is a peculiar characteristic of the female difpofition in Europe, I (hall prefume to % that, from the eagernefs which we obferved in thc looks of the Chinefe women as we paffed by them, P 3 that ( wS ) that the quality which has juft been mentioned is equally prevalent Auguft. among the fair ones ot Afia. Thc women we faw on our paffage through Pekin pofTeffed, in general, great delicacy of feature, and fair ikins by nature, with which, however, they arc not content, and therefore whiten them with cof-metics ; they like wife employ vermilion, but in a manner wholly different from the application of rouge among our European ladies, for they mark the middle of their lips with it by a flripe of its deepen: colour, which, without pretending to rcafon upon it, certainly heightened thc effect of their features. Their eyes are very fmall, but powerfully brilliant, and their arms extremely long and flender.. The only difference between the women of Pekin, and thofe we had already feen, as it appeared to us, was that the former wear a fliarp peak of black velvet or filk, which is ornamented with flones, and defcends from the forehead almoit between their eyes; and that their feet, free from the bandages which have already been mentioned, were fuffered to attain their natural growth. When we had paffed through the eaftern gate of the city, fome confufion having arifen among the baggage carts, thc whole proceffion was obliged to halt. I, therefore, took the opportunity of eafing my limbs, which were very much cramped by the inconvenience of the machine, and perceiving a number of women in the crowd that fur-rounded us, I ventured to approach them; and, addrefftng them with the Chinefe word Chou-au, (or beautiful) they appeared to be extremely diverted, and gathering round me, but with an air of great modefly and politenefs, they examined the make and form of my clothes, as well as the texture of the materials of which they were compofed. When the carts began to move off, 1 took leave of thefe obliging females by a gentle fhake of the hand, which they tendered to me with the molt graceful affability ; nor did the men, who were prcfent, appear to be at all diffatisfied with my conduct, but, on the contrary, expreffed, as far as I could judge, very great fatisfacfion at 2 this f i°9 ) mis public attention I paid to their ladies. It appears, therefore, that in this city, the women arc not divefted of a reafonable portion of their liberty, and, confequently, that the jealoufy attributed fo univeri'ally to the Chinefe men, is not a predominant quality, at leaft, in the capital of the empire. Among other objects which we faw in our way, and did not fail to attract our notice, we met a funeral proceffion, which proved to be a very ftriking and folemn fpectacle: the coffin is covered by a canopy decorated with curtains of fatin, enriched with gold and flowers, and hung with efcutcheons : it is placed on a large bier or platform, and carried by at leaft fifty or fixty men, who fupport it on their fhoulders with long bamboos crofting each other, and march eight abreaft with flow and folemn ftep. A band of mufic immediately follows, playing a kind of dirge, which was not without a mixture of pleafing tunes: the relations and friends of the deceafed perfon then followed, arrayed in black and white dreffes. Having paffed through the eaftern fuburbs of the city, we entered into a rich and beautiful country, when a fhort ftage of about four miles brought us to one of the Emperor's palaces named Yeumen-manycumen, where we arrived about five o'clock in the afternoon, op-prelfed with fatigue from the extreme heat of the day, and the various-impediments which obftructed our paffage, arifing from the immenfe crowds of people that may be faid to have filled up the whole way from Tong-tchew to this place, a journey, of thirty miles. In a fhort time after our arrival, we received a very fcanty and indifferent refreshment, when the whole fuite retired to fleep ofT the fatigue of the day. CHAP. ( no ) CHAP, IX, Defcription of the palace of Yeumen-manyeumen. Difagreeable circumfiances belonging to it. Difiputes with the natives who guarded it. Lord Macartney applies for a change of fituation. The embafjy removes to Pekin. Defcription of a pagoda. Arrive at the palace appointed for the refidence of thc embaffy. Defcription of it. The arrangements made in it. Several mandarins vifit thc Ambaffador. *793- THE whole of this morning was employed in removing the bag-Auguft. gage» &c- belonging to the embafly, from the outer gateway, where Thuriday23. jt ^cen Jcp0fited, to the different apartments appointed for the gentlemen who compofed it. Thc palace of Yeumen-manyeumen is in a very low fituation, about a quarter of a mile from a village of the fame name, and is a very mean, inconvenient building of no more than one itory. The entrance to this palace, if it may be faid to deferve that name, tonfiifed of a very ordinary Hone gateway, guarded by foldiers, and beyond it was a kind of parade, where the baggage was placed on its being taken out of the carts that had brought it hither. In the center of this parade there is a fmall lodge, where feveral mandarins of an inferior order were in waiting; and through it is the paflage that leads to the body of the palace, which being no more than four feet wide, the carriages could make no nearer approach than to this lodge, The pofition of this palace is not only low, but in a fwampy hollow, and between two ponds of ffagnant water, whofe putrid exhalations cannot add to the comfort of this unwholefome fituation j 4 and ( m ) and fome apartments which were on the banks of one of thefe ponds, | T?93- j were occupied as barracks by the Britiih foldiers. To the weft of Auguft, thefe buildings there is another gate, but conftrucled of wood, which leads to another building, where I ob ferved a confiderable number of Chinefe foldiers j but, on my approach to take a view of them, they fuddenly retired, and locked the door againft me. Indeed, thc native jealoufy of thefe people respecting ftrangcrs feemed to be awakened in a very great degree, when they thought it neceffary to watch all our actions with fuch a minute and fcrutiniling attention. The palace, for I muft by way of diftinction continue to give it that name, though unworthy thc refidence of the reprefentative of a great monarch, is divided into two fquare courts, with a range of apartments all round them, which were not only deftitute of elegance, but in a wretched ftate of repair: there is a, paved footway around them, with a wooden roof painted and varnilhed. Before the principal doors of the building, and in thc midft of a large court, there are a few trees of no very peculiar figure or beauty; but the ground itfclf is covered with a kind of gravel. There are fome fmall fields of grafs that belong to the place, which wear an appearance of neglect we Ihould not have expected to find in a country where we had not hitherto feen an uncultivated fpot. Thc windows of thc apartments confiftcd of lattice work covered With a glazed and painted paper. In the hot feafons the doors arc opened during thc day, and their place fupplied by cooling blinds made of bamboo, fancifully coloured, and wrought as fine and clofe as a weaver's reed ; they certainly ferved to rcfrcih thc rooms where they were placed, and afforded fome degree of coolncfs to alleviate the heat of thc day ; but at night the doors were reftorcd to their office, and thefe blinds were rolled up and faftencd to the wall over them. The whole range of apartments contained no other furniture than a few very common tables and chairs •> not a bed or bed Head was to he be feen in the whole place; it was, therefore, a fortunate circumflance for us that we providently brought our cots and hammocks from on board the lhips, or we fhould not have flept in a bed, at leaft during our refidence in China. The natives have no fuch comfortable article of furniture in their houfes, but fleep on a kind of mattrefs, and cover themfclves with a cufliion fluffed and quilted with cotton. They pull off a very fmall part of their drefs when they go to reft, and when the weather proves cold, they increafe the number of thefe culhions as the circumfiances of the feafon may require. In the place of bedtleads they life a large wooden bench, which is raifed about two feet from the ground, and covered with a kind of elaftic balket work made of bamboos, on which feven or eight perfons may fpread their bedding. I have alfo feen fome of them formed of planks, and covered with carpets. This habitation had a moft ungracious and defcrted appearance; and, from the ftate in which we found it, a long time muft have elapfed fince it was inhabited by any thing but centipes, fcorpions, and mufquetos, which infeftcd it in every part. It is furrounded by a very high and flrong wall of flone, which excluded every external object; nor was any perfon belonging to the embaffy permitted, on any pretence whatever, to pafs its boundaries, mandarins and foldiers being ftationed at every avenue to keep us within the precincts of this miferable abode; fo that we were in reality in a ftate of honourable imprifonment, without any other confolation for thc lofs of our liberty, but that we were fupplied with our daily provifions at the expenfe of the Emperor. The Ambaffador's apartments were guarded both night and day by Britifh centinels; and, to fupport the dignity of his great diplomatic character, his Excellency required that a table fhould be, in future, furnifhed for himfelf and Sir George and Mr. Staunton, diftinct from the gentlemen of his fuite. This requifition found a ready com-iance, and this day he dined in his own apartment, while the upper ranks ( ll3 ) ranks of thofe who attended on the embafly, had a table prepared for them in one of the courts, and beneath the made of a tree. Auguft* The place where the prefents were depofited, was fo expofed to the Friday 23, fun, that it was apprehended fome of them would receive confiderable injury from their unfavourable fituation; a temporary fhed was therefore immediately erected, to which they were fpecdily removed. Lord Macartney being very much diffatisfied with his fituation, made a ferious requifition for the appointment of a refidence more fuited to the character with which he was inveffed, as well as to the convenience and proper accommodation of the embafly. To obtain this object, Mr. Plumb, his Excellency's interpreter, made feveral vifits to Pekin: little, therefore, occurred worthy of a recital during the remainder of our flay in this uncomfortable abode. It continued, however, till the twenty-feventh day of this month, which was appointed for the Ambaffador's departure for Pekin; a more commodious refidence having been allotted for the embaffy, in confequence of Mr. Plumb's negotiation with the Chinefe government on the occafion. This interval was not paffed by any of the gentlemen of the fuite, or the inferior attendants, with fatisfaction or patience; and Col. Benfon was fo hurt and mortified at being denied the liberty of palling the walls of the palace, that he made an attempt to gratify his inclinations, which produced a very unpleafant affray, when he was not only forced back from his defign, but threatened with very illiberal treatment from the Chinefe who were on duty at the gates. Several other difputes of a fimilar nature took place between the fuite and the natives who guarded the palace. It was, without doubt, a very humiliating circumflance for Englifhmen, attending alfo as they were upon a miffion, that by the law of nations pollelfes the molt enlarged and univerfal privileges, to be treated in a manner fo fo ill-fuitecl to their individual, as well as political, character : at thc Auguft. fame time, it would, perhaps, have been more difcrcet to have fparcd thofe menaces which were continually exprelfed againll perfons charged with an official duty, and acting under the direction of their fuperiors ; and to have fubmitted with patience to thofe regulations, which, however unpleafant, were fuch as were adopted by, and might be the ufage of, that government, whofe partial fivour and friend-fhip it was the intereft, and, therefore, thc duty of the Britiih embaffy, by infinuating addrefs and political manoeuvre, to obtain and eflablifh. Saturday 24. The plcafure that was this day felt by the whole of the fuite of every denomination, is not eafily defcribed, when orders were received to prepare for quitting this horrid place on the Monday following. Sunday 25. This and the fucceeding day were employed in removing the greater part of the baggage and prefents, which was accomplished, as it had hitherto been, by the coolies, or porters. The chandeliers, mathematical apparatus, together with the clocks and time-pieces, were left at the palace of Yeumen-manyeumen, as fuch frequent removals might materially injure, if not altogether fpoil thofe pieces of mechanifm, the wonders of whofe operations muff depend upon the delicacy of their movements. Monday 26. At ten o'clock in the morning fingle horfe carts were provided for thc whole train of the embaffy. The foldiers, mechanics, and fervants, were lodged two in a cart j and each of the gentlemen had a cart to himfelf; but the Ambaffador, with his fecretary and interpreter, were, as before, accommodated with palanquins. The bufinefs of our fetting off was, as it had hitherto been, a fcene of confufion and diforder; but by eleven o'clock, we had, to our extreme fatisfaction, bid adieu to our late uncomfortable refidence. ( "5 ) fidencc. We foon paffed through the village from whence the palace ^ i793. appears to derive its name, amid ft a vaft crowd of fpectators; and, at Auguft. one o'clock, arrived at thc north gate of" the city of Pekin ; which is the counterpart of that we have already defcribed. In our progreis through the ftreets we palled a pagoda, which is the firft we had feen in China. In our voyage up the river, or in our journey from Tong-tchew to Pekin, we had not feen one of thefe buildings, which arc, in a great meafure, peculiar to this part of the call, till we arrived in this city : it is fituatcd in thc center of a very pretty garden adjoining to a mandarin's palace. This pagoda is a fquare ftrudfurc, built of flone, and diminifhes gradually from the bottom, till it terminates in a fpire. It had only one gallery, which encircled it near the top, and was guarded by a rail: a curtain of red filk at this time, hung from a projecting canopy, and gave this part of the building, when feen at a dif-tancc, the appearance of an umbrella. It was feven flories in height, and was without any kind of exterior ornament, but that which I have already defcribed. As our return to Pekin was not only fudden but unexpected, our rc-cntry was not particularly interrupted by the public curioiity, and, at half paft two in the afternoon, we arrived, without having met with any material impediments at the princely palace, which had been appointed for the future refidence of the embaffy. It is the property of John Tuck, a name generally given by Englifhmcn, but why, or wherefore, I cannot tell, to the Viceroy of Canton, who was now here as a ftate prifoner, for fome embezzlement of the public treafures, or other mifdemeanors refpedling his government there. This palace is built of a grey brick, and is extremely fpacious, containing twelve large and fix fmall courts. The bricks are cemented with fuch curious care, that the feams of mortar between them are as fmall as a thread, and placed with fuch peculiar uniformity, that a mi- nute ( "6 ) mite examination is neccftary to convince the fpectator that it is not the work of a painter, rather than that of a bricklayer, and that the pencil has not been employed to produce the effect inflead of the trowel. Thefe bricks have the fmoothnefs of marble, are fixteen inches in length, eight inches broad, and two and an half in thicknefs. Thc whole range of buildings, except two diflinct parts, which wrere inhabited by the AmbalTador and Sir George Staunton, occupy but one, though a very lofty flory. The courts are fpacious and regular fquares, and paved with large flat flones. Before the building, in each of thefe fquares, there is a railed terrace of about three feet, to which there are regular flights of Heps in the center of each angle, and, of courfe, correfponchng with each other. Over thefe terraces there is a projecting roof, which extends the breadth of them, and is fupported by light pillars of wood, ranged at equal diflances, and connected by a railing of fanciful contrivance. The whole is gilt and painted with much prettinefs, as to pattern and colour; and forms a moft elegant piazza, that not only adds to the grandeur, but, which is a better thing, to the convenience of this fuperb manfion. Here I firfl ob ferved the fupcriority of the Chinefe in the art of houfe painting, to which they give a glofs equal to japan, that not only prc-fcrves the colours from fading, but never fuffers any injury itfelf from the expofition of air, or fun, or rain. I at firfl confidcred this effect to have been produced by varniih; but I afterwards difcovcred that it proceeded from certain ingredients with which thc colours are originally mixed, and not from any fecond operation. The apartments are very commodious and of large dimensions; fome of them were hung with a gliflening paper of a pattern, both as to colour and beauty, far fuperior to any 1 had ever feen in Europe: others were curioully painted and enriched with gilding. Thofe occupied by Lord Macartney were numerous and elegant, and contained a private theatre. The latter is of a fquare form, with a painted ( "7 ) eJ gallery which runs entirely round it for the audience: thc ftage is ,__]793- raifed from the floor about three feet, and has the appearance of a large Augjift platform : it is furrounded by a wooden railing, and has a paffage of eight feet wide all round it: behind the ftage is a fuite of rooms for the convenience of the actors, who drefs in them, or retire thither to make any neceffary transformation in their characters d uring the performance. The building is very lofty, and the roof elegantly painted. The apartments of Sir George Staunton were alfo very handfome and convenient. The whole fuite werelikewife accommodated in a manner that gave them the moft entire fatisfaction. The windows arc covered with glazed paper, and the doors of the principal rooms confift of gilded frame-work, which is fitted up with fine filk gauze, inflead of glafs. The frames, both of the doors and windows, are richly gilt; and, in the warm feafons, the former being always kept open, a curtain, if it may be fo called, of painted fretwork, made of bamboo, fupplics their place, as 1 have already obferved in former defcriptions. In feveral courts of the palace there are artificial rocks and ruins of no mean contrivance, which, though not very congenial to their fituation, were formed with confiderable fkill, *and were, in themfelves, very happy imitations of thofe objects they were defigned to repre-fent. To thefe may be added, the triumphal arches, which arife, with all their fanciful devices, in various parts of the building. This noble manfion is of great extent, and calculated to afford every % kind of princely accommodation; but, with all its magnificence, as to the number of the apartments, and the general difplay of the whole, its only furniture was fome chairs and tables, and a few fmall platforms covered with carpets and bamboo matting. Beneath the floor, in each of the principal apartments, is a ftove, or furnace of brick-work, with a circular tube that is conducted round r trie the room where it (Unds, which is fufficicnt alfo to warm thc apartment ,mmi above it. They arc, in cold weather, conilantly fupplied with charcoal, and communicate their heat in the manner of our hot-houfes in England. The houfes here have no chimnics that I could difcover, and, of courfe, no other means of admimftering heat can be employed but thofe which have jufl been mentioned. At four o'clock in thc afternoon, the whole fuite fat down to dinner, which confifled, as ufual, of a great variety of flews and bathes. Indeed, a joint of meat is fcldom or ever feen, but on feflival days; of which I fhall fpeak more hereafter. His Excellency and Sir George Staunton dined together. But with all the fuperiority of accommodation we enjoyed here, we continued to be guarded with thc fame fufpici-ous vigilance as in our late refidence. On no pretence whatever was any one permitted to pafs the gates, and every acceffible part of thc place was under the active care of military power. This palace, according to the reports of the country, was erected by the Viceroy of Canton, from the fruits of his exertions during his government there, and particularly on thc fhipping of the Englifh nation at that port; for which acts of injuflice and oppreffion he was, as I have before mentioned, at this time, a prifoner at Pekin. The money expended on this immenfe building amounted to ninety-feven thoufand pounds flerling. A mofl enormous fum in a country where the materials for building, and the labour which puts them together, are to be obtained at fo cheap a rate. Tuefday This day was principally occupied in arranging the various apart- ments for the convenience of the gentlemen, &C. to whom they were allotted, as well as in providing fuitable places for the reception of the heavy baggage. The cloths and bale goods, with that part of the more valuable prefents which were of the fmallefl compafs, were diflributed between 4 the the apartments of Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton: the re- t lW& Jt mainder was removed to feveral large chambers, which formed a large Auguft. and commodious magazine for their reception. The fix pieces of fmall ordnance and two mortars were placed in the inner court, with all their appendages, and mounted on their carriages, in front of the Ambaffador's apartments. Thefe arrangements being made in the molt proper and convenient manner which our fituation would admit, it remained for us to wait with patience, till his Imperial Majeffy's pleafure mould be knownr whether the embaffy was to proceed to Tartary, or to be cooped up in its prefent abode till the ufual feafon of his Majeffy's return to the capital of his empire. To obtain this intelligence fo important to us, a mandarin had been difpatched, on our arrival at Tong-tchew, to the Emperor's fummer refidence in Tartary, and we were in continual expectation of the return of this meifenger. In the courfe of this day, the Britifh Ambaffador was vifited by a company of mandarins, among whom were feveral perfons, natives of France, who had been of the order of jefuits; but being prohibited from promulgating their doctrines in this country, had affumed its drefs and manners ; and, on account of their learning, had been elevated to the dignity of mandarins. Thefe French gentlemen, who were, as may be very readily conceived, well acquainted with the interefls of the country in which they were now naturalized, encouraged Lord Macartney to hope for the mofl fatisfactory and beneficial iffue of the embaffy which he conducted. chap, i 120 ) C H A I'. X. Lord Macartney receives notice, that it is the Emperor's pleafure to receive the embajfy at the Imperial refidence in Tartary. The perfons felecled to attend the Ambaffador in his progrefs thither. The particular occupations affigned to thofe who were left at Pekin. Arrangements for the journey into Tartary. Leave Pekin ; circumfances of thejourney. 1793. rr\ *-^—* A HE Ambaflador received a vifit this morning; from the mandarin Wednef- Van-Tadge-In, who informed his Excellency, that the meflenger who day»8. been fent to know his Imperial Majefty's pleafure refpecting the Britifli embafly, was returned, and that the Emperor defired the Ambaflador to proceed to Tartary, where he wilhed to fee him, and to receive his credentials. Thurfdaya9. This morning the final arrangements were made refpccling that part of the fuite who were to accompany the embalfy into Tartary, They coniifted of Sir George Staunton, Mr. Staunton, Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Captain Mackintofh, of the Hindoftan, Lieutenant Pariih, Lieutenant Crewe, Mr. Winder, Do&or Gillan, Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, Mr. Baring, and, Mr. Huttner- Mr, ( «« ) Mr. Maxwell remained at Pekin, with three fervants, in order to fettle the houfehold of the Ambalfador, as, on his return from Tartary, it was intended that his eftablifhment and appearance mould be, in every refpect, fuited to the character and dignity of the fovereign whofe reprefentative he is. Doctor Scott was alfo to be left, in order to take care of feveral of the foldiers and fervants, who were, at this time, very much afflicted with the bloody flux. Mr. Hickey and Mr. Alexander were to be employed in preparing the portraits of their Britannic Majcfties, which, with the ftate canopy, were to be the appropriate furniture of the prcfence chamber of the Ambalfador. Doctor Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow were to regulate thc prefents that had been left at the palace of Ycumen-manyeumen, and to put them in a flate to be pre fen ted to thc Emperor, on the Ambaffador's return to Pekin. The guards, mulicians, and fervants received orders to hold them-felves in readinefs, to fet out on Monday morning, with no other baggage but their bedding, and fuch neceffaries as were abfolutely nidi fpenfable on the occafion. The gentlemen of the fuite were likewife requested to content themfclves with the uniform of the embaffy, a common fuit of clothes, and fuch other articles as they might judge to be abfolutely neceffary for their own comfort, and the formality of the occafion. Mr. Maxwell received orders to diflribute to each of the muficians and fervants, a fuit of thc ftate liveries, in order that the attendants might appear in that uniform drefs, which would add to the dignity and fplcndor of the Ambalfador's entrance into Jehol. R The I793- The carpenters were employed this morning in unpacking an old "T^JT"' travelling- chaife belonging to Sir George Staunton, in which Lord Friday 3o. Macartney propofed to travel to Jehol. This carriage greatly at-tracked the notice of the Chinefe, who flocked about it to fee the nature of its conflruction, and the materials of which it wras formed, which they examined with a very Angular curiofity; and fome of them were fo anxious to underftand all its parts, that they made various drawings of it. But fo familiar are the eyes of thefe people to the glare and glitter of colours and gilding, that, howTever they might admire the mcchanifm and contrivance of the carriage, they did not hefitatc to exprefs their difapprobation of its exterior appearance; which, I muff own, did not poifefs any very uncommon degree of attraction. At noon Mr. Plumb came to inform the fuite, on the part of Van-Tadge-In, the attendant mandarin, that fuch as preferred to travel on horfeback, were to give in their names, that horfes might be prepared for them ; and thofe who chofe the conveyance by carts, fhould be provided accordingly. After thefe travelling arrangements were fettled, thc muiicians, fervants, &c. attended at Mr. Maxwell's apartment, to receive the clothes in which they were to make their public appearance at Jehol. A large chefr. was produced on the occafion full of clothes : they were of green cloth, laced with gold; but their appearance awakened a fufpicion that they had already been frequently worn, and on tickets, fewed to the linings, were written the names of their former wearers ; and as many of thefe tickets appeared, on examining them, to be the viiiting cards of Monfieur de la Luzerne, the late French Ambalfador, it is more than probable, that they had been made up for fome gala, or fete, given by that minifler. But whether they were of diplomatic origin, or had belonged to the theatres, is of no confequencc, they were never intended for actual /ervice, being made only for a few temporary occafions, whatever they might ( 123 ) might be. With thefe habiliments, however, fuch as they were, every man fitted himfelf, as well as he could, with coats and waift-coats, as there was a great dearth of fmal.l-clothcs, of which there were not more in the whole package" than were fufheient for the accommodation of lix perfons. The Chinefe may not be fuppofed to be capable of diflinguilhing on the propriety of our figure, in thefe ill— fuited uniforms; but we certainly appeared in a very ftrong point of ridicule to each other. The two couriers were furnifhed with beaver helmets, but not an hat was diflributed to accompany thefe curious liveries ; which, after all, the fervants were ordered not to put on till the day when they were to add fo much to the entry of the embaffy into Jehol. When the chaife wTas put in complete order for the journey, a difficulty arofc, againft which, as it was not forefcen, no provilion could be made; and this was no lefs than to get a couple of poftillions: at length, however, a corporal of infintry, who had once been a pofl-boy, offered his fervice, and a light-horfeman was ordered to afftil him in conducting the carriage. This morning fuch of thc prefents and baggage as were intended to Saturday 31* be forwarded to Tartary, were fent off: fome of them were carried by mules, others in carts ; but the more valuable articles, and thofe of delicate fabric and curious conftrucfion, were borne by men. This important bufinefs being difpatched, a great number of horfes were brought to the palace, when each of the gentlemen and the other perfons of thc fuite who propofed to ride, made choice of his horfe; and the animals which were thus felcctcd for thc fervice of the approaching journey, were then delivered to thofe perfons whofe office it was to take proper care of them till the time of our departure. 1793- Auguil. The poftillions were permitted to exercife the horfes in the chaife for an hour, through the flreets of Pekin. They were guarded both R 2 by I ) »793« ky mandarins and foldiers j and, indeed, fuch were the crowds which t~^^p' aifemblcd to fee this extraordinary fpecfacle, that fome kind of authority and exertion was neceffary to give thc drivers an opportunity of fhewing their ikill, and exhibiting the equipage and its apparatus to advantage. The corporal being alfo furniihed on the occafion with thc jacket, helmet, &c. of the light boric, the poftillions not only made an uniform, but a very pretty, appearance. The Ambaffador received a vifit from feveral mandarins; when the band played on the ftage of the theatre for their entertainment. Lieut. Parifli exercifed his men in the ordnance evolutions, to keep them in practice, as it was thought very probable that, on prefenting thc artillery to the emperor, he might dciirc to fee an exhibition of European tadtics, September. As it was ordered that the embaffy mould fet out to-morrow morn-Siunday i. at tw0 o'clock, fome of the baggage, to prevent as much as pofi fible the confufion which had been hitherto experienced, was fent forward this evening. Monday*. jSoon after one o'clock this morning, the drums were beat through all the courts of the palace, and in half an hour the whole fuite was in motion. The bedding was then fent on in carts; and the Ambaffador, with his attendants, having made a flight brcakfaff, quitted the palace at half an hour pall three o'clock, under a flrong efcort of Chinefe cavalry. But, even at this early hour, the crowd of fpec-tators was fo great to fee our departure, that thc progrefs of the cavalcade was very much impeded, cfpecially the carriage of the Ambaffador, which, from the concourfe of people, and the aukwardnefs of the horfes that had not been properly broke into their new geer, was for fome time very much delayed, K At ■ ( <=5 ) At feven o'clock wc paffed through the city gate, and in about *7W-half an hour had exchanged thc fuburhs for a very rich and finely- September, cultivated country. The road, though very broad, had no pavement in the center, like that which leads from Tong-tchew to Pekin. At the end of fix miles we flopped at a confiderable village called Chin-giho, where we flayed to take the ufual refrefhments of thc morning, which have been fo often mentioned. Our route was then continued through a great number of villages, and near two o'clock arrived at one of the Emperor's palaces named Nan(hi(hec, where we were appointed to remain during the firfl: night of our journey. The mandarin Van-Tadge-In, whom I have had fuch frequent occafion to mention, father increafed than diminifhed his activity on thc prcfent journey; which might arife, perhaps, from otir being more particularly under the Imperial care and protection. We were here provided with every rcquifite accommodation, and in a very comfortable manner. To our dinner each day was added a regale of Jooaw and famtfhoo : the former is a bitter wine of the country; and the latter, a very flrong fpirit diftilled from rice and millet, whofe appearance refembles that of Britifh gin. In the evening the foldiers were cxercifed by Lieutenant Col. Ben fon. Wc computed the journey of this day to be about twenty-five miles; and, though it may appear but dull travelling to perfons accuftomed to thc expedition of Engliih roads, it will be confidered as no very tardy progrefs, when the obflaclcs are known which tended to impede it. The fame horfes were to take us (he whole journey, and the fame men to carry the baggage; befides, the whole ot our provifions was ordered and dreffed at the feveral places through which we paffed on the road, and conveyed in bowls, carefully covered up in f 126 ) "793- in trays, on men's moulders, to every ftage of our journey, for our September, refrefhment there. The diflance from Pekin to Jehol is one hundred and fixty miles, which was divided into pretty nearly equal journies of feven days. This arrangement was made that the embalfy might be accommodated each day beneath an Imperial roof; as the Emperor, for his own convenience and dignity, has a certain number of palaces built at equal diflances on the road from Pekin to his fummcr refidence in Tartary. This privilege was confidered to be a moft flattering mark of diftinelion, as it is never granted to the firfl: mandarins of the empire. Of this palace we can fay but little, as no parts of it were open to us but thofe which we inhabited. It did not rife higher than one flory ; nor, from what we had an opportunity of feeing, did it appear that the interior apartments wrere fuperior to the external form; which had nothing either of elegance or figure to attract attention. The central part of thc courts was planted with trees and flowers of various kinds, which had a very pleafing effect.. An extcnfive garden furrounded the palace, but we could not, to our very great difappointmcnt, obtain accefs to it. We continued our journey at four o'clock this morning, with thc fime guard of Chinefe cavalry; and, after having paffed the village of Cantim, which pofleffes the ufual charactcriftic of every Chinefe village we have yet feen, an overflowing population, we arrived at the town of Wheazou, a place of fome confideration ; and, after thc ufual refrefhments, proceeded beneath a burning fun along dufly roads, but through a very fertile country, to the palace of Chanchin, where we arrived at one o'clock. It is a very extenfive building of one flory throughout, and contains ten or twelve fpacious courts, furrounded with piazzas, and adorned with a garden, in the center, planted with 4 trees Tut [day 3. ( 127 ) trees and fhrubberies that were interfected by walks. The country 1793-around it boafts a continuation of that fertility which has been already September., mentioned. It was enclofed, and fed innumerable herds of cattle and flocks of fheep : the former are fmall but very fat, but the fheep are both large and fat, with white faces, and a fhort thick tail, which is a lump of fat, and weighs feveral pounds. Wc fet off this morning at five o'clock. The diftant country ap- Wednefdayi. peared to be mountainous, and rofe boldly in the horizon. That fertility of which fo much has been faid, began fenfibly to diminiih, and the richnefs of the foil was proportionably decrealing. At half paft feven o'clock we arrived at a fmall village, called Cuaboocow, where we breakfaftcd, and, from fome accidental circumflance, not in the ufual ftile of plenty, in a place like a farm yard. The road, as wc proceeded on our journey, became extremely rugged and difagrecable, and the heat of the weather continued without any alleviation. At noon we faw a very large walled city, called Caungchumfoa; the walls of which were built of flone, and, though not fo lofty, in the fame form as thole of Pekin. We paffed at leaft two hundred dromedaries and camels carrying-very heavy loads of wood and charcoal, as it appeared, to the city which has been juft mentioned. This large drove was under the direction of one man, who fcemed to manage them all without the leaft difficulty. Thefe animals are among the moft docile of the brute creation ; bcfidcs, the length of time they can fall, and the burthens they can bear, render them invaluable in the commerce of the eaft. Thc palace where the embafly was received at thc end of this day's journey, derives its name from thc city of Caungchumfoa, near which it {lands; ( "3 ) ,|9«« Hands : it is furrounded with gardens, but has little to diflinguim it September. from thofe which we have already inhabited, This was the mofl fatiguing and unpleafant day of our whole route, both from the heat of the weather and the badnefs of the road, which was fo rugged and narrow in many places, that fome of the carts were overturned j but, happily, without any accident to thofe whom they conveyed. C II A P. CHAP. XI. Arrive at the town of Waung-chauyeng. Defcription of Chinefe foldiers, &c. Pafs the great walk Defcription of it. The different appearance of Tartary and China. Pafs an extraordinary mountain. Arrive at the palace of Chaung-fhanuve; the circumfances of it. Example of the indufry of the peafants, and the cultivation of the country. Some account of the tenure by which lands are held in China. Arrive at thc palace of Callachottueng. Defcription of it. Arrangements fettled for the manner in which the embaffy was to make its entrance into Jehol. AS the country was now become very irregular and mountainous, r^.v the roads were proportionably fatiguing-. At nine we arrived at the g e^nber town of Waung-chauyeng. At a fmall diflance from it, we paffed Thm-iday*. an arch of great ftrcngth, which ftretchcd acrofs a valley to unite the oppofite hills, and is guarded by a broad wall on either fide of it. A little further, the road proceeds up a very fleep hill, on the top of which there is a fort, with a flrong wall or rampart flretching on either fide of it, to the diflance of two or three miles. From the elevated filiations which thc inequality of the road frequently offered, this wall was a very vifible object in its whole extent, and appeared to be in a flate of decay. Beneath the fort is a flrong, thick, flone archway, through which the road conducted us down a hill, whofe declivity was fuch, as to oblige the drivers to have but one horfe in each carriage, and to fecure a wheel with ropes, to prevent a too rapid defecnt. At the bottom of this hill, and in a mofl romantic valley, Hands the town of Waung-chauyeng, which refcmbles thofe places of the fame kind that have been already defcribed, except in the uniformity of them j this being S built ( l3° ) ^ ^ built with greater irregularity than any we have yet feen. It is about ai September mile in length, as weil as I could judge from our paifage through it, but 1 had no opportunity of afcertaining its breadth : populous it was,. of courfe, and appeared, to be a very bufy place. After brcakfafl we proceeded towards a fpot on our journey, of which we had all heard or read with wonder and affonifnment; which fo few Europeans had ever feen, and wdiich no one of our own country would probably ever fee but ourfelves : this was the great wall, the ancient boundary ot China and Tartary, through whofe portals our paffage lay. At the end of the town which has been juh: mentioned, there was a temporary triumphal arch erected in honour of the embaffy, finely decorated with ftreamers and filks of various colours ; at the entrance of which the Ambaffador was faluted with three guns. There we paffed between a double line of foldiers, which extended on either fide of the road, from the triumphal gateway towards the great wall. Thefe were the only foldiers we had yet feen in China, who pof-feffed a martial appearance> and, according to my notion of fuch things, I never faw a finer difplay of military parade. They were drawn up in a very regular manner, each regiment being diflinguifhed by a different drefs, and divided into companies : thefe were ranked in clofe columns, and in their front flood the officers with two flands of colours. They were all arrayed in a kind of armour, which confifted of a loofe coat or robe, in imitation of a coat of mail, with fleel helmets that covered their heads and moulders. Their implements of war were various, comprifing matchlocks, fabres, daggers, fpcars,. halberts, lances, bows and arrows, with fome other weapons,, of which I knew not the name, and cannot particularly defcribe. Thofe companies of foldiers who wore no warlike inftrument but the fword, had a fhicld to accompany it. In fhort, every one of thefe military ( «» ) military divifions was diftinguiflied by their drefs and arms, and 1793-arranged with the utmoft propriety, not merely as to regularity of po- September fition in their general diftribution, but as to the effect of contrail in the variety of external appearance. On each fide of the road there were feventccn of thefe divifions, each confifting, as I fhould think, of about eighty men; and a band of muficians, placed in a building, erected, as it appeared, for the occafion, continued to play, as the cavalcade of the Engliih embaffy paffed between the lines. On approaching the wall, there were cantonments for a confiderable army, at the extremity of which there is a very flrong gateway, built of flone, and ftill ftrengthened with the addition of three vafl iron doors ; on pafling them, you enter at once into Chinefe Tartary. On the outfide of another gateway is a flrong redoubt, from whence I afcended the hill, and contrived to get on the top of the great wall which formerly feparated the two empires. This wall is, perhaps, the moft ftupendous work ever produced by man : the length of it is fuppofed to be upwards of twelve hundred miles, and its height in the place where I ftood upon it, for it varies in its circumfiances, according to the nature of the furface, is upwards of thirty feet, and it is about twenty-four feet broad. The foundation is formed of large fquare flones, and the reft is brick: the middle is of tempered earth, covered with broad flones : there is alfo a parapet wall or breaft-work of flone, three feet thick, on each fide of an embattled wall. When it is confidered that this immenfe ftructure is not merely carried along level ground, but pafTes over immenfe rivers, where it aifumes the form of bridges, fome of which contain double rows of immenfe arches ; or flretchcs, in the fame expanfive fliape acrofs deep vallies, to connect thc mountains that form them; and that it not only descends, but alfo afcends, the fleepeft declivities ; the idea of its grants 2 dcur, ( 1:J* ) • 2?i j deur, and thc active labour employed in con Articling it, in the fhort September, fpace of a few years, is not cafily grafped by the flrongeft imagina> tion. Where it climbs the heights, thc afcent is aided by large flights of fleps, for that the paffage along it is at once eafy, fecure, and uninterrupted. In fhort, it formed a fine military way, by which the armies of China, employed to defend its frontier againfl the Tartars, could march from one end of thc kingdom to the other. There are alfo, at proper diflanccs, flrong towers, from whence, by certain flgnals, an alarm could be communicated, in a very fhort fpace of time, acrofs the whole empire; and wherever the wall attains the fummit of an hill, or mountain, there is a flrong fort defigned to watch the excurfions and movements of the enemy. The part of this wall, on which I flood, commanded a very extern five view of it, with all the romantic fcencry connected with it. From hence I faw the amazing fabric take its courfe for many miles over a beautiful plain, watered by a large river, which it croffed in the form of a bridge. A little to the We Award ft afcends a very lofty mountain, whichr on that fide, completes the profpect. But the moft ftupendous works of man muftat length moulder away; and fince Tartary and China are become one nation, and, confequently, fubject to the fame government, the wall has loft its importance: it being no longer neceffary for defence or fecurity, no attention is now paid to its prefcrvation j fo that the time is approaching when this ftupendous monument of perfevering labour; when this unparalleled - effort of national policy, will become an enormous length of ruins, and an awful example of decay : many parts of it are already fallen down, and others threaten to encumber the plain that they were reared to defend. One ( J33 ) One of the mandarins informed me, as we were walking together on ^ 1793. the wall, that, according to the hiflorics of his country, it had been September; finiflied upwards of two thoufand years ago ; and, confequently, two hundred years before the Chriftian sera! I muff, however, acknowledge that, after all, this renowned barrier of China did not, altogether, fatisfy my expectations. The wonder of it confifls in its extent, of which a fmall part is to be feen, and the fhort time in which it was erected, may equally aflonifh by reading an account of it. When I flood on the top of it, I was ft:ill obliged to exercife my imagination as to the aflonifhing circumfiances connected with it, and faw it alfo in a comparative view with natural objects infinitely fuperior, at leafl, to any partial appearance of it. When we had paffed the wall, there was an immediate change in the appearance of the country, as well as the temperature of the feafon. Inflead of a level range of various and unceafing cultivation, of the habitations of wealth, the crowd of population, and the exertion of induflry ; we beheld a wide and barren wafle, finking into vallies, and rifing into mountains; where no harvefl waved, no villages poured forth its inhabitants, or fplendid manfions enriched the fcene. The traveller, however, is amply compenfated by the variety of natural objects which prcfent themfclves to him ; and the lover of picturefque beauty finds, amidft all the increafing inconvenicncics of his journey, a. fource of enchantment which makes him forget them all. At the diflance of about feven miles from the great wal^.we came to thc foot of a very high mountain, which the carts, could not -af-cend without an additional number of horfes. The paffage through this mountain is another proof of the genius and indefatigable fpirit of the Chinefe people in all works that relate, to public,utility. It is thirty feet in breadth, cut through a folid,rock ; and, which is the more extraordinary part of this undertaking, thc incifion made from, th/j top of the mountain to thc furfaoc of thc road, is, at leafl, one hundred hundred feet-a flupendous labour. But with this aid in eafing the paffage, the beginning of the afcent has a very fearful appearance; but on the other fide the way Hopes down with a gentle declivity between two large mountains towards a beautiful valley. Al two o'clock, we arrived at the palace of Chaung-fhanuve, which is fituatcd on a fmall elevation, at the diflance of a mile and a half from the bottom of the hill which has been juft defcribed. It is of large dimenlions, and furroundedby an high wall, being the refidence of a confiderable number of the Emperor** women ; many of whom I faw peeping over thc partition which feparated their apartments from the part of the palace afltgncd to the accommodation of the embafly. Though it was not permitted for any of the Ambaffador's fuite, as may well be fuppofed, to vifit thefe ladies; the guardians of them, who were all eunuchs, came to vifit us. There were, indeed, feveral mandarins among them, to whom was configned the care and conduct of thc female community. This palace was furrounded with very extcnfive gardens, but, from the particular fervice to which it was applied, it would have been a flrong mark of folly, as well as an idle rifk of danger, to have made any attempt to fee them. Friday 6. We left Chaung-fhanuve this morning, at half pall fix, and found the weather extremely cold and piercing. The road continued to take the form of the country, which was very mountainous and irregular, as well as naked, and without any other marks of cultivation but fuch as denoted the poverty of it. But this barren appearance does not proceed from the inactivity of the inhabitants, who feize on every fpot capable of being tilled, and in fituations which are acceffi-ble only to the adventurous peafant, whom neceflity impels to gather a fcanty and dangerous harveft. One example of this hazardous induflry, which I obferved this morning, will fufhciently illullrate the barrennefs of the country, and the fpirit of its fcattered inhabitants. Oa v---v---) September. ( m ) On a very high mountain I difcovercd feveral diflinct patches of 1793. cultivated ground, in fuch a flate of declivity, as to be altogether in- September, acceflible; and while I was confidering the means which the owner of them mult employ to plant and gather his vegetables on thefe alarming precipices, I beheld him actually employed in digging a fmall fpot near the top of the hill, and in a fituation where it appeared to me to he impoifible, without fome extraordinary contrivance, for any one to Hand, much lefs to be following the bufinefs of a gardener. A more minute examination informed me, that this poor peafant had a rope faflened round his middle, which was fecured at the top of the mountain, and by which this hardy cultivator lets himfelf down to any part of the precipice where a few fquare yards of ground gave him encouragement to plant his vegetables, or his corn : and in this manner he had decorated the mountain with thofe little cultivated fpots that hung about it. Near the bottom, on an hillock, this induflrious peafant had erected a wooden hut, furrounded with a fmall piece of ground, planted with cabbages, where he fupported, by this hazardous induflry, a wife and family. The whole of thefe cultivated fpots do not amount to more than half an acre; and fituated, as they are, at confiderable diflances from each other; and, abflracted from the continual danger he encounters, the daily fatigue of this poor man's life, they offer a very curious example of the natural induflry of the Chinefe people. It is, certainly, a wife policy in the government of China to receive the greater part of the taxes in the producer of the country; and is a confiderable fpur to improvement and induftry in every clafs of the people, who are to get their bread by the exertions of genius, or the. fweat of their brow. The landlord, alfo, receives the greater part of his rents in the produce of his farms; and the firmer pays his fervants, in a great meafure, by giving them pieces of wafle uncultivated land, where there are any, with occafional encouragement to excite their induflry. Such arc the cufloms which prevail throughout China, and tend fo much to preferve the profperity, and promote cultivation of every part of that extenfive empire. i By lTW By ten o'clock -this morning we arrived at the palace of Calla-Septembtr, chottueng, near a fmall village of thc fame name, where we remained the whole of this day, on account of the length of the next ftage; and in order to make a more equal divifion of the reft of our journey. This palace is fituated in a plain, between two very large and lofty mountains: in form and external appearance it refembles thofe we have already defcribed; but appears to be of modern erection; and its apartments are fitted up in a better ftyle than any we had yet feen. In fome of thc courts there were artificial ruins, a favourite object in thc ornamental gardening of this country, furrounded with plots of verdure. As thc embaffy now approached the termination of its journey, and was foon to appear before the fovereign, to obtain whofe favour and friendfhip it had traverfed fo large a part of the globe, the Ambaffador gave orders for rehearfing thc proceffion, with which wc were to make our appearance at the imperial court. This evening, therefore, the ceremonial was arranged, and performed, under the direction of Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, and approved by the Ambaffador. The band played the Duke of York's march during thc time of our re-hearfal. CHAP. CHAP. XII. Arrive at the palace of Callachotrefijangftt. Stop at one of the Emperor's pagodas. The public entry into Jehol; and circumfances of it. Defcription of the palace providedfor the Britifh embajfy. A principal mandarin pays a vifit of ceremony to the Ambaffador. Singular conduct refpe&ing the provifions fupplied for the fuite. The prefents unpacked and difplayed. An account of them. ^/\^E fet off this morning at fix o'clock, when the air was cold and t ITJ3't , piercing, and paffed through a very hilly and mountainous country. gjjjjf*' After having breakfafled at a village of the name of Quanfhanglin, the route was continued. The villages we now paffed were well peopled, but the difference is very great indeed between the population, as well as cultivated flate, of China and Tartary. On this fide of the wall, the picture is extremely varied, the face and productions of the country are no longer the fame; nor were there any towns of confideration in the latter part of our journey. At two o'clock in the afternoon we arrived, very much fatigued by the badnefs of the roads, and the jolting faculties of our carriages, at the palace of Callachotrefhangfu. It is a fpacious and noble edifice, but has riot been lately inhabited; as might well be fuppofed, from the great number of fquirrels running about the courts, and haunting the apartments. The embaffy continued its route at fix o'clock, and, in about two Sun% 8. hours, arrived at one of the Emperor's pagodas, about three miles from T the ( fjfft ) the Imperial refidence. These a more abundant difplay of refrefh-ments was prepared than we had feen for fome time, from the difficulty of procuring them in the country through which we paffed. Some time was alfo neceffary for every part of the fuite to arrange their drefs, and fettle their appearance. At half pafl nine, however, we arrived at a fmall village, called Quoangcho, at about the diflance of a mile from Jehol. Here the fuite alighted from their horfes and carriages, and put themfelvcs in a Hate of preparation for the entry ; which proceeded in the following manner, amidfl a prodigious con-courfe of people, whom curiofity had led to fee fuch a fpcctacle as they had never feen before, and will never, I believe, behold again. The foldiers of the royal artillery, commanded by Lieutenant Parifh; The light-horfe and infantry, commanded by Lieutenant Crewe ; The fervants of the Ambaffador, two and two; The couriers; The mechanics, two and two ; The muficians, two and two; The gentlemen of the fuite, two and two ; Sir George Staunton in a palanquin ; Thc Ambaffador and Mr. Staunton in the pohSchaife, with a black-boy, dreffed in a turban, behind it, clofed thc proceffion. There was, indeed, fomewhat of parade in all this bufinefs, but it was by no means calculated to imprefs a favourable idea of the greatnefs of the Britifh nation, on the minds of thofe who beheld it: they might be pleafed with its novelty; but it did not, in any degree, poffefs that characferiflic appearance which was fo neceffary on the prefent occafion. The military departments made a re-lpettable figure, and the gentlemen of the fuite cannot be fuppofed for a moment to derogate from the diplomatic character in which they were involved; but the reft of the company exhibited a very aukward appearance : fome wore round hats, fome cocked hats, and others flraw hats : fome were in whole boots, fome in half boots, and others t *39 ) others in fhoes with coloured flockings. In fhort, unlefs it was in fecond-hand coats and waiflcoats, which did not fit them, the inferior part of the fuite did not enjoy even the appearance of fhabby uniformity. In this date and order the proceffion moved on with a flow pace to the city of Jehol, and foon after ten o'clock arrived at the palace provided for the accommodation of the Britifh embaffy in this city. Here the military part of the cavalcade formed a line to receive the Ambaffador with the ufual honours. Thus the embafly arrived at the end of its tedious and trou-blefome journey : but the manner of its reception did not fill us with any extravagant expectation as to the iffue of it: for not a mandarin appeared to congratulate the Ambaffador on his arrival, or to ufher him, with that form which his dignity demanded, to thc apartments provided for him. In fhort, we came to this palace with more than ufual ceremony ; but we entered into it with as little, as any of thofe where we had been accommodated during our journey. This appeared to be the more extraordinary, as it was the avowed expectation of the principal perfons of the fuite, that the Ambalfador would be met, on his entry at Jehol, by the Grand Choulaa, the Imperial Mini Her of flate : but on what grounds this expectation was formed, or for what reafon it received fuch a difappointment, it is not for me to offer a conjecture. On our arrival, Lieut. Col. Benfon ordered the troops to hold themfclves in rcadinefs to fall into a line at a moment's warning; and defii-cd the fervants, mechanics, &c. to range themfelves in order before the door of the Ambaflador's apartments, in order to receive the Grand Choulaa, who was expected every moment to pay his vifit of falutation and welcome. In ( ho ) T793- In this ftate of fufpenfe we remained from our arrival till paft four September, o'clock ; in the courfe of which time we had paraded at leaft a dozen times, as feveral mandarins came to take a curious view of us, and every one of them was fuppofed, in his turn, to be the Grand Chou-laa. The arrival of dinner, however, put an cud to all expectations of feeing him on this day. The palace, which was now become the refidence of the embafly, is built on the declivity of a hill; the entrance to it is by eight large" broad fteps which lead to a wooden gateway, through which there is a paffage to a large court, paved in the center with large flat ftoncs. On each fide of this court there is a long and broad gallery roofed with black fhining tiles, and fupported in front by ftrong wooden pillars. That on the left was employed at this time as a kitchen, and enclofed by mats nailed along the pillars to the height of feven or eight feet : the other, on the oppofite fide, was quite open, and ufed as a place of parade and exercife for the foldiers. At the upper end of this court there is another neat gallery or platform laid with flones, and roofed in the fame manner as the others. To this there is an afcent of three fteps, and a door opens from it into another court, the wings of which afforded chambers for the military part of the embaffy; and the center part, fronting the gallery, to which there is an afcent of three fteps, contained the apartments of thc Ambaflador and Sir George Staunton : beyond this is another court of the fame dimentions, the wings of which were occupied by the mechanics, muficians and fervants, and the center of it by the gentlemen of the fuite: but it conlifted only of two large rooms, where they flept in two divifions, and a lobby of communication, which was ufed as an eating faloon. This building cannot be defcrihed as poffefling either grandeur or elegance : it does not rife beyond a ground floor, but is of unequal height, as the ground on which it is built is on a gradual afcent. It is is furrounded by a wall, but is overlooked, from the upper parts of the , V^JfJ hill, on whofe declivity it is erected, September. But though we were as yet rather difappointed in the reception of honours, we had no reafon to be difiatisfied with thc attention paid to our more urgent ncceffitics; and we dined in comfort and abundance. This morning, at fo early an hour as feven o'clock, was received a Monday^ large quantity of boiled eggs, with tea and bread, for breakfifl. At noon his Excellency was vilited by feveral mandarins. Nothing, however, as yet tranfpired that could lead us to form a judgment as to thc final iffue of the bufinefs: as far as any opinion could be formed frum the general afpect of things, it did not bear the promife of that fuccefs, which had been originally expected from it. The Grand Choulaa ft ill delayed his expected vifit. In this palace, as in our former places of refidence, we experienced the jealous precaution of the Chinefe government: we were kept here alfo in a flate of abfolute confinement; and, on no pretext, was it permitted to any perfon, attached to the embafly, to pafs the gates. This morning his Excellency was vifitcd by a mandarin, accom- Tuefday row panied by a numerous train of attendants. He remained with the Ambaffador and Sir George Staunton about an hour, in which fome neceffary formalities were interchanged; and then returned with the fame form in which he came. During the vifit of thc mandarin, his attendants were very bufily employed in examining the drefs of the Englifh fervants; the lace of which they rubbed with a flone to certify its quality, and then looking at each other with an air of fur-prize, they fhook their heads and fmiled; a fuificient proof that the Tartars are not unacquainted with thc value of metals; at leafl, they clearly comprehended the inferior value of thc trimmings that decorated thc ( U2 ] the liveries of the embafly. They appeared to be a polite and pleafant f people, and of an agreeable appearance. Though it cannot be fuppofed that fuch a conference as was this morning held between thc Britifh Ambaffador and the mandarin would be communicated to the general attendants on the embafly, yet wc could not refill the fpirit of conjecture on the occafion: the following circumflance, which took place this morning, did not ferve to diflipate that difpoiition to forebode ill, which prevailed among us. The Ambaffador ordered Mr. Winder, one of his fecretaries, to intimate to the fervants that, in cafe they fhould find, in the courfe of the day, any deficiency in their provifions, either in quality or quantity, they fhould not reflect or complain to the people who fupplied them, but leave them untouched, and intimate the grievance to his Excellency i who requeffed, for very particular and weighty reafons, that this order might be punctually ob ferved. It became thofe to whom this intimation was made, to pay the mofl willing obedience to it j at the fame time, it excited no fmall degree of ailonifhment that we fhould thus be ordered to prepare our-felves for ill-treatment in the article of provifions, of which we had, hitherto, fo little reafon to complain. Our treatment in this refpect had been not only hofpitable, but bounteous in the extreme. To fuggefl caufes of complaint to thofe who never yet had reafon to complain, was a conduct perfectly unintelligible in itfelf; and was, therefore, very naturally referred to the interview of the morning between the mandarin and the Ambaflador, When, however, dinner came, we were fenfihle that the precautions communicated to us were, as we expected to find them, thc refult of fome well-grounded fufpicionj for, inflead of that abundance with which our tables had hitherto been ferved, there was not now ( '43 ) now a fufficient quantity of provifions for half the perfons who were 1793. ready to partake of them. September. .■* The emotions of every one attached to the embaffy were, I believe, very unpleafant upon the occafion- We not only felt the probability that wc might be ftarved as well as imprifoned ; but that the embaffy itfelf was treated with difrefpect; and, of courfe, we felt fome alarm, left thc important objects of it would quickly vanifh into nothing. We had alfo our feelings as Britons, and felt the infult, as it appeared to us, which was offered to the crown and dignity of the firfl nation in the world. This meagre meal, therefore, was left untouched ; and, in conformity to the orders which had been received, complaints were preferred to his Excellency on thc occafion; and, on a report being made to him that the reprefentations which had been made were founded in reality, Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, was requcfted to communicate the caufe of difcontcnt to the mandarin, and to infift on more hofpi-table ufage: nor was the remonftrance without an immediate effect; for, within five minutes after it was made, each table was ferved with a variety of hot difhes, not only in plenty, but pronation. Why this entertainment, when it muft have been in actual ftate of preparation to be ferved, was thus withheld from us, could not be reconciled to any principle of juftice or policy. To fuppofe that it proceeded from caprice, or an humorous fpirit of tantalifing, cannot be readily imagined; and, as for any faving of expenfe in the bufinefs, that could be no object to the treafury to the Chinefe Emperor. It was confidcred, therefore, as an enigma, which, as the evil was removed, foon ceafed to be a fubject of curiofity or inquiry. The Ambaffador was this morning pleafed to order the prefents WedntC-which were brought from Pekin, to be unpacked in the great plat- day lkl form, or portico, facing his Excellency's apartments; where feve-4 ral ( 144 ) '793- ral ranges of tables were placed to receive them. They were a£ Scptcmber, follows : Two hundred pieces of narrow coarfe cloth, chiefly black and blue. Two large telefcopcs. Two air guns. Two beautiful fowling pieces; one inlaid with gold, and the other with lilver. Two pair of faddlc piflols, enriched and ornamented in the fame manner. Two boxes, each containing feven pieces of Irifli tabinets. Two elegant faddlcs, with complete furniture \ the feats of thefe were of fine doe fkin, ffitched with fdver thread; the flaps were of a bright yellow fuperhne cloth, embroidered with filver, and enriched with lilver fpangles and taffels ; the reins and flirrup-flraps were of bright yellow leather, ffitched with filver; the itirrups, buckles, &c. were of fleel double plaited % and, Two large boxes, containing thc fineft carpets of the Britifh manufactory. Thefe were all the prefents which were brought from Pekin: the reft, confifting of various pieces of clock-work and machinery, with carriages, and pieces of artillery, were cither too cumbcrfome or too delicate to venture on fo long a journey ; and were, therefore, intended to be prefented to his Imperial Majcfly, on his return, for the winter feafon, to the capital of his empire. Thc prefents were ordered to remain in their prcfent fituation till the Imperial pleafure fhould be known concerning them. Centinels were appointed to do duty on the platform where they were placed. CHAP. CHAP. XIII. The prefents removed from the palace. Anotif'cation received that the Emperor would give audience to the Brltl/h Ambajfador. Orders iffued to the fuite on the occafion. The proceffion to the Imperial palace defcribed. The Ambaffador*s firfl audience of thc Emperor. Prefents received on the occafion. The Ambaffador s fecond vifit to the Emperor. Additional prefents. Favourable opinions entertained of the fuccefs of the embajfy. THIS morning, the conducting mandarin Van-Tadge-In, accom- 1793-panied by feveral of his mandarin brethren, and a troop of attendants, September! removed the prefents, as was prefumed, to the palace of the Em- Thurfday12' peror. His Excellency, at the fame time, received a vifit from a mandarin of the firfl order, who came to notify that the Emperor would, on Saturday morning, give audience to the Ambalfador of the King of Great Britain at the Imperial palace. This intelligence enlivened the fpirits, as it animated the hopes, of the whole embafly: and, though the Grand Choulaa had not vifited the Ambaffador, and other circumfiances of an unfavourable afpect had taken place, the news of the day not only diffipated our gloom, but renewed the tide of expectation, and made it flow with an accelerated current. His Excellency received the vifits of feveral mandarins of diflinc- Friday 13. tion, who continued with him upwards of an hour. Orders were iffued, that the whole fuite fhould be ready on the following morning, at three o'clock, to accompany the Ambaflador to U the ,_'793*_l tlie Imperial palace. The fervants were ordered to drefs in their green K September, and gold liveries, and fo wear white filk, or cotton ftockings, with fhoes; boots of any kind being abfolutely prohibited on this occafion. It was, at the fame time, intimated, that neither the foldiers, or the fervants, were to remain at the palace for the return of the Ambaflador ; but when they had attended him there, they were requeued to return immediately to Jehol, without prcfuming to halt at any place whatever for a fingle moment ; as his Excellency had every reafon to expect that, in a few days, the prefer^ restrictions, which were fo irkfome to the retinue of the embaffy, would be removed, and every indulgence granted them which they could reafonably defire: and as any deviation from this order would tend to rifque the lofs of that meditated favour. His Excellency ferioully expected it to meet with a general and willing obedience. Saturday 14. This morning, at fo early an hour as three o'clock, the Ambaflador and his fuite proceeded, in full uniform, to the Emperor's court. His Excellency was dreffed in a fuit of fpottcd mulberry velvet, with a diamond flar, and his ribbon; over which he wore the full habit of the order of the Bath, with the hat, and plume of feathers, which form a part of it. Sir George Staunton was alfo in a full court drefs, over which he wore the robe of a doctor of laws in the Engliih univcrlitics, with the black velvet cap belonging to that degree. Though the morning was fo dark that we could not diflinguifli each other, Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon made an attempt to form a proceflion, to proceed the palanquin of the Ambalfador. But this manoeuvre was of very fhort duration, as the bearers of it moved rather too faff for the folemnity of a flow march; and, inflead of proceeding it with a grave pace, we were glad to follow it with a quick one. Indeed, whether it was thc attraction of our mufic, or any accidental circumflance, I know not, we found ourfelves intermingled 4 with ( '47 ) with a cohort of pigs, affcs, and dogs, which broke our ranks, fuch 1795. as frhey were, and put us into irrecoverable confufion. All formality September, of proceffion, therefore, was at an end ; and the Ambaffador's palanquin was fo far advanced before us, as to make a little fmart running neceffary to overtake it. After a confufed cavalcade, if it can deferve that name, we arrived at the palace of the Emperor, in the fame flate of confufion in which we had proceeded—the pedeflrian part of the fuite being a little out of breath with running; and the gentlemen on horfeback, not altogether infenfible to the rifk of accidents from the dark hour of the morning. In fhort, it appeared, to the greater part of thofe who were concerned in it, to be rather ridiculous to attempt to make a parade that no one could fee. At about five o'clock the Ambaffador alighted from his palanquin, amidft an immenfe concourfe of people; Sir George and Mr. Staunton bearing his train, and followed by the gentlemen attached to thc embafly. The fervants, &c. returned according to order, and the foldiers marched back with fife and drum. As our return was by day-light, we had fome opportunity of examining the appearance of the city where we refided. It is a large and populous place, built without any attention whatever to regularity of defign, and lies in an hollow, formed by two large mountains. The houfes arc low, of a mean appearance, and built chiefly of wood: the flreets are not paved in any part of the city, but in that quarter of it which is moft contiguous to the Emperor's palace ; the road to which is laid with large flat flones. As this place is not watered by any river, it cannot be fuppofed to enjoy a large portion of commerce. Its trade, however, is not al- U z together ( h8 ) i/93« together inconfiderable, from the confumption occafioned by the refi-September. dence of the Emperor in the immediate neighbourhood; a circumflance which not only occafions a great increafe of inhabitants, but brings with it the wealth, the luxury, and the expences of a court. The furrounding country wears a greater appearance of fertility, than any I have feen in thofe parts of Tartary through which the embaify had paffed; but, in its beft flate, it is by no means comparable to that of China. At eleven o'clock in thc forenoon, the Ambaffador and his fuite returned from thc Imperial palace. It was a vifit of mere form and prefentation; and his Excellency, Sir George Staunton, and Mr. Staunton, with Mr. Plumb, the interpeter, were alone admitted into the prefence of the Emperor. The Emperor, it was faid, received the credentials of the embafly, with a mofl ceremonious formality. All, however, that we could learn, as a matter of indubitable occurrence, was the notice his Imperial Majefly was pleafcd to take of Mafler Staunton, the fon of Sir George Staunton. He appeared to be very much flruck with thc boy's vivacity and deportment; and cxpreffed his admiration of the faculty which the young gentleman poffeffed of fpeaking fix different languages. The Emperor, to manifcfl the approbation he felt on the occafion, not only prefented him, with his own hand, a very beautiful fan, and feveral fmall embroidered bags and purfes, but commanded the interpreter to fignify, that he thought very highly of his talents and appearance. In a very fhort time after the Ambaffador had returned from court, a large quantity of prefents were received from his Imperial Majefly. They confifled of the richefl velvets, fatins, filks, and purfes beautifully embroidered. To thefe were added large parcels of the befl tea tea of the country, made up in folid cakes, in the fize and form of a *793» Dutch cheefe. It is thus, in fome way, baked together, by which September means it will never be affected by air or climate, nor ever lofe its flavour, though kept without any covering whatever. Each of thefe balls weigh about five pounds. His Excellency diflributed to every gentleman of the fuite his proportion of the prefents. Thofe which were peculiarly addreffed to their Britannic Majeflies, were depofited in the lobby, in the boxes wherein they arrived. This morning, at one o'clock, the Ambaffador, accompanied by his Sunday i fuite, but unattended by any of his guards or fervants, proceeded to pay a fecond vifit to thc Emperor. The object of this interview was, as we underflood, to make an attempt to open the negotiation, for the purpofe of obtaining that extenfion of commerce fo anxioufly defired by our Eaft India Company. His Excellency did not return till near three o'clock; and, on his arrival, appeared to be very much exhaufled. . Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, gave, however, fuch a favourable account of the general afpect of the negotiation, as to elevate the hopes of every one concerned in the iffue of it. He mentioned, that the Emperor had, through the medium of the Grand Choulaa, entered upon the bufinefs of the embafly with Lord Macartney ; which, as far as it went, had altogether fucceeded. This favourable information appeared to be confirmed by a fecond cargo of prefents from his Imperial Majefly. They confiflcd of large quantities of rich velvets, filks, and fatins, with fome beautiful Chinefe lamps, and rare Porcelain. To thefe were added a number of callihafh boxes of exquifite workmanfhip, beautifully carved on the outfide, and flained with a fcarlet colour, of the utmofl foftnefs and delicacy : the infide of them was black, and fhone like japan. His ( ) <793« His Excellency made the fame difhibution as he had before done to September, the gentlemen of the fuite; while the prefents, addreifed to their Britannic Majefties, were affigned to the fame apartment which contained thofe of the preceding day. The evening of this day was paffed in great mirth and feflivity by the whole fuite, from the very favourable forebodings which they now entertained of the final fuccefs of their important miffion. CHAP. ( i5« ) CHAP. XIV. The Ambaffador v if ted by mandarins on the part of the Emperor, to invite him to court on the anniverfary of his Imperial Majcfiy's birthday. The whole fuite attended on the occafion. Thc Imperial palace defcribed. Some account of the Emperor. A fucceffion of prefents. Bufinefs tranfac~led with the Imperial court. Particular prefent of the Emperor of China to thc King of Great Britain. Defcription of theatrical amufements. A Britifh foldler tried by a court-martiaf and punifhed. Leave Jehol. THE Ambaflador received the vifits of feveral mandarins, who came to inform him, that as the following day was the anniver- ^ff^ fary of the Emperor's birth-day, his pretence, and that of the whole embafly, would be expected at court. This morning, at two o'clock, his Excellency, with the whole of Tuesday 17 the Britiih fuite, fet out for his Imperial Majefly's palace, where we arrived, with much interruption, in about two hours, amidil an immenfe crowd of fpeclators without, and a great concourfe of people within the palace; the latter confifting of mandarins of all claffes and diftin&ions. This palace is built on an elevated fituation, and commands an ex-tenfive view of the mountainous country that furrounds it. The edifice itfelf is neither lofty or elegant, but very extenfive; and contains a very numerous range of courts, furrounded with porticos,, ornamented with gilding and colours. The gardens extend for feveral miles, and are furrounded by a flrong wall, about thirty feet in height. ■ ( '5* ) t I793'_. height. In front of the palace there is a large plain, with a confider-September, able lake in thc center of it. Here we waited feveral hours, till, at length, the approach of the Emperor was announced, by the proflration of the mandarins, as he advanced. This great pcrfonagc was in a very plain palanquin, borne by twenty mandarins of the firft order ; and were it not for that circumflance, he could not have been diflinguilhed from a common mandarin, as he wore no mark or badge of diftinclion, nor any article of drefs fupe-rior to the higher claffes of his fubject s. The fimplicity of his appearance, it feems, proceeds from that wife policy which diftinguifhes his reign; as it is a favourite principle of his government to check, as much as poffible, all ufelefs luxury, and to encourage ceconomy among his people. It is from the fome paternal regard for the fituation and circumfiances of his fubjects, that he has fuppreffed all public rejoicings on account of his birth-day, in this lefs flourifhing part of his dominions; from the apprchenfion that the loyal and affectionate fpirit of the poorer claffes of the people would diftrefs themfelves, in promoting the feflive celebration of the day. This prohibition, however, as we underflood, reached no further than the immediate vicinity of the Imperial refidence; the birth-day of the fovereign being obferved with great joy and folcmnity through every other part of a grateful empire. The Emperor on this day completed the eighty-fifth year of his age, as he was in thc fifty-feventh of his reign. Though he had dark, piercing eyes, the whole of his countenance difcovered the mild traits of benignant virtue, mixed with that eafy dignity of exalted flation, which refults rather from internal confeioufnefs, than exterior grandeur. The appearance of the fuite was exactly the fame as on the firft day of audience; and we returned, in an equal flate of embarralfment and fatigue, at one o'clock. A very large quantity of prefents foon followed ( '53 ) lowed us, confifting of the fiime kind of articles as had been already , T793-^ fent, but of different colours and patterns. There were, however, Septal**-, added, on the prefent occafion, a profufion of fruits and confectionary, fuflicient to have furnifficd a fucceflion of fine deferts, if our flay had been prolonged to twice the perLJ v.hich was deftined for our abode at Jehol. The Chinefe poffefs the art of confectionary in a very fuperior degree, both as to its tafte, and the variety of its forms and colours. Their cakes of every kind are admirably made, and more agreeable to the palate than any I remember to have tailed in England, or any other country. Their paftry is alfo as light as any I have eaten in Europe, and in fuch a prodigious variety, as the combined efforts of the European confectioners, I believe, would not be able to produce. This morning the Ambaffador went to the Imperial palace, but not WetedT-in the former ftyle of parade, to have his audience of leave, as the day l8' period of our flay in Tartary was verging to a period. His Excellency, at the fame time, tranfacted certain official bufinefs at court, which was faid without referve at the time, by the gentlemen of the fuite, to be as follows : Thc Emperor of China rofufed, in the firft inftance, to fign, and of .courfe, to enter into any engagement by a written treaty with the Crown of Great Britain, or any other nation; as fuch a conduct, on his part, would be contrary to thc ancient ufage, and, indeed, an infringement of the ancient conftitutions, of the empire. At the fame time he was plcafed to fignify his high refpect for his Britannic 'Majefly and the Britifh nation; and that he felt a flrong difpofition to grant them greater- indulgcncies than any other European power trading to his dominions; nor was he unwilling to make fuch a new arrangement of thc duties payable by Britifh lhips arriving at Canton, as ap- X peared ( t* ) pearcd to be a leading object of the negotiation. At the fame time,, however, he (hould be ever attentive to the real interefts of his owm fubject s, an atom ol which he would never facrificc; and fhould,. therefore, withdraw his favours to any foreign nation whenever it might appear to be incompatible with theinterefts of his own; or that the Engliih fhould, by their conduct in trade, forfeit their pretentions to any advantages which might be granted them in preference to other nations trading to China. Thefe were the declarations- of the Emperor on the occafion, which did not, in his opinion, require any written inftrument or fignaturc to induce him to realils and -fulfil. At the fame time, to prove the high regard and efteem the Emperor of China entertained for the King of Great Britain, his Imperial Majefly delivered, from his own hand, into that of the Ambalfador, a very valuable box, containing the miniature pictures of all the preceding emperors; to which is annexed, a defcription in verfe by each emperor, defcriptive of himfclf, and the principal features of his government, as well as a line of conduct recommended to their feveral fucceifors. The Emperor, on pre fen ting this gift to the Ambaffador, fpokc to thc following purport: ** Deliver this cafket to the King your mailer, with your own hand, and tell him, though the prcfent may appear to-be fmall, it is, in my eft inflation, the moft valuable that I can. give, or my empire can fur-nifh; for it has been tranfmitted to me through a long line of my prcdecelfors, and is the laft token of affection which I had referved to bequeath to my fon and fucceffor; as a tablet of the virtues of his anceftors, which he had only to perufc, as I fhould hope, to infpirc him with the noble refolution to follow fuch bright examples; and, as they had done, to make it the grand object of his life to exalt the honour of the Imperial throne, and advance the happinefs and prof-pcrity of his people/1 Such ( >S5 ) "Such were the words delivered by the Emperor on the occafion, as L f793-communicated by Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, and which occafioned, September, as -may be imagined, no fmall degree of fpeculation among the gentlemen of the retinue. The Ambaffador returned to dinner, and foon after repaired again to the Imperial palace, with his whole fuite and attendants, to fee a play which was exprefTly performed as a particular mark of refpect to the embaffy. This dramatic entertainment was reprefented jn one of the inner courts of the palace, on a temporary ftage erccled for the purpofe. It was decorated with a pronation of filk, ribbons, and flreamers, and illuminated with great fplendour and elegance. The performance confided of a great variety of mock battles and military engagements; lofty tumbling, as it is expreffed with us, and dancing both on the tight and flack ropes; and in all thefe exercifes that agility was difplaycd, which would have done no difcredit to the gymnailic amufements of Sadler's Wells or Aftley's amphitheatre: but the fkill of the performers was more particularly affonifhing in the art of balancing, in which they excelled any thing of the kind I had ever feen. By an imperceptible motion, as it appeared, of the joints of their arms and legs, they gave to bafons, jugs, glaffcs, &c. an apparent power of loco-motion, and produced a progreflive equilibrium, by which thefe veffels changed their pofitions from one part to another of the bodies of the balancers, in a manner fo extraordinary, that I almoft fufpected the correctnefs of my own fenfes. The fucceflion of entertainments was concluded by a variety of curious deceptions by flight of hand, which the almoft magical activity of Breflaw or Comus has never exceeded : and, as a proof of my alfertion, I lhall mention one of them, which, 1 muff own, allonifhcd me, and feemcd to have an equal effect on the reft of the fpeetators. X 2 The ( *56 > T7 2nd to fufpend or difmifs tranfgreffors, as the occafion may require. t Wfy j Nor, if offence fhould be offered to a Chinefe, or a mifdemeanor of September, any kind be committed, which may be punifhable by their laws, will he deem himfelf bound to interfere for the purpofe of endeavouring to ward off or mitigate their feverity.. *' His Excellency relies on Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, commandant' of his guard,, that he will have a ftrict and watchful eye over them ;. vigilance, as to their perfonal demeanor, is as requifite in the prefent eircumffanccs, as it is, though from other motives,, in regard to the conduct of an enemy in time of war. The guard arc to be kept con-ftantly together, and regularly exercifed in all military evolutions ; nor are any of them to abfent themfclves from on board fhip, or from whatever plaee may be allotted them for their dwelling on fhore, without leave from his Excellency,, or commanding officer. None of the mechanics, or fervants, are to leave the fhip, or ufual dwelling on fhore, without leave from himfelf, or from Mr. Maxwell; and his Excellency expects, that the gentlemen in his train will fhew the example of fubordination, by communicating their wifhes to him before they go, on any occafion, from the fhip, or ufual dwelling place on fhore, 14 No boxes or packages, of any kind,' are to be removed from the fhip, or, afterwards, from the place where they fhall be brought on fhore, without the Ambaifador's leave, or a written order from Mr. Barrow, the comptroller; fuch order defcribing the nature, number,, and dimenfions. of fuch packages.. 11 His Excellency, in the moft carneft manner, rcqucfts that no per--ion whatever belonging to the fhips be fuffered, and he defires that none of his fuite, guard, mechanics, or fervants, prcfume to offer for fale, or propofe to purchafe, in the way of traffic, the fmallcft article of merchandize of any kind, or under any pretence whatever, without leave from him previoufly obtained. The neceffity of avoiding the leaft appearance of traffic accompanying an embalfy to Pekin-was fuch, t ,7tl_j mcn, as to 'induce the Eaft India Company to forego the profits of a September. ncw niarkct, and deterred them from (hipping any goods for fale in thc Hindoftan, as being deftined to attend upon the cmbalTy, the dignity and importance of which, in the prejudiced eyes of the Chinefe, would be utterly loft, and the good confluences expected from it, even on commercial points, totally prevented, if any actual tran factions, though for trifles, for the purpofe of gain, fhould be difcovered amongft any of the perfons concerned in conveying, or attending an Ambatlador; of which the report would foon infallibly fvvell into a general fyftem of trading. From this ftri It was notified by orders, ifTucd this morning, that the embaffy was Tucichyzo t0 ^Ult Jeno^ on tne morrow» t0 proceed to Pekin, where the final iifue of it would be known and fettled. In the evening, thc whole of the heavy baggage was fent off for Pekin. At nine there was a very heavy florm of thunder, lightning, and rain, which continued, without any intermiffion, till four o'clock of the following morning. Wcdnef- This morning, at eight o'clock, the Britifh embaffy took their leave day 21' of the city of Jehol, after a Uriel: confinement of fourteen days ; as the liberty, with which we had been flattered foon after our arrival, had never been granted. We paffed the Emperor's pagoda at nine o'clock, where we faw an Ambaffador and his fuite, from the King of Cochin China, refrefhing I themfclves. themfelves. It is an annual vifit to pay tribute from that Prince to '793-the Emperor of China. September* The confufion and folicitude which attended the entry into Jehol, prevented me'from giving a defcription of the two rocks, which arc among the moil extraordinary objects I have ever feen or read of; and mull not be paffed by without fuch a particular defcription, as it is in my power to give of them. The firil is an immenfe pillar, or column of folid rock, which is feen from the palace, occupied by the embafly at Jehol, at the dif-tance, as it appeared to me, of about four miles. It is fituated on the pinnacle of a large mountain, and near the verge of it: from which it rifes, in an irregular manner, to the height of one hundred feet. Its bafe is fmall, but it gradually thickens towards the top; and from feveral of its projecting parts iffues dreams of the fincfl water. The upper part of this enormous rock, which is rather flat, appears to be covered with fhrubs and verdure ; but as it is abfolutely inacceffi-ble, there is no poffibility of knowing thc kind of plants which crown it. When its own individual height is confidered, and added to the eminence where nature, or, perhaps, fome convulfion of the elements, has placed it, the paffenger in the valley below cannot look up to it without an equal degree of horror and amazement. It is effeemed, and with great propriety by the Chinefe, as among the firfl natural curiofities of their country ; and is known by the name of Panfuiafhaung. The other rock, or rather duffer of rocks, is alfo a very llupendous object, and Hands on the fummit of a very grand, though not a fertile, mountain. They are alfo in the form of pillars, and appear, except in one particular point of view, to be a folid rock ; though they are actually feparatcd from each other, by an interval of feveral feet. Their height rifes to near two hundred feet, as I undciftand from a correct mathematical admeafurement, Oppofite ■ ( '68 ) ,_*79> J Oppofite to the mountain which forms the bafe, rifes another of a .irpianbtr. firnilar form, which (lopes with a more gentle declivity, down to a charming valley, that is formed by them, and is itfelf watered by a pretty rivulet, abounding in fine trout. In thc courfe of this afternoon we arrived at the Imperial palace of Callachottueng, where we had the misfortune to lofe Jeremiah Reid, one of the royal artillery, who died of the bloody flux, with which he had been afflic~ted but a very few days. Several men belonging to the military detachments were attacked with the fame complaint. Thuiidaysa. This morning, at one o'clock, the body of the deceafed foldier was removed to the next village, to remain there till our arrival, to receive the interment which was due to him. This meafure was fuggeded by the mandarin, who expreflcd great apprehenfion left the circumflance fhould reach the Emperor, and awaken his alarm refpecting any contagious diforder. At fix o'clock thc embalfy continued its route, and at the fmall village of Quangchim, where it (topped to breakfaft, the body of our .deceafed companion was interred with military honours. In the courfe of this morning intelligence was received by the mandarin, Van-Tadge-In, that his Imperial Majefly had left Jehol, on his -return to Pekin: he, therefore, requeded the Ambalfador and his train to exert themfelves in making two (lages without halting, that the palaces might be left to receive the attendants of the Emperor. In confequence of this unexpected rcquifition, we arrived, after a very fatiguing journey, at the town of Waungchauyeng, in the vicinity of the great wall, of which dupendous object I took another and a lalt view j but without any novelty of impreffion, or the acquifition of an additional circumdance concerning it. ( ) At a very early hour we continued our route j the air was: cold and (_*79^ piercing, and we breakfafted at a place called Caungchumfau; after Segtetnbe which we palled a prodigious number of carts, containing the Em- Mouda>r peror's baggage. Arrived at three o'clock at Cubacouoo, as thc flat ion, of the day. Wc proceeded on our journey at four in the morning, bytheaiTitl- Tuefday ance of a very bright moon, and took our firfl: meal at the town of Chanchin; our fecond regale was taken at Mecucang, and we then proceeded to Whiazow, the Jail ftage of the day. Breakfaft was this morning provided for the embafly in thc bam- Wedne yard of a fmall village ; and the journey of thc day was ftnifhed at ' * Zy Kanfhifliec. There I was furprized by the fight of feveral fields of turnips of an excellent quality. _ • This day ftnifhed our returning journey from Tartary, which, as Thurfday it was by the fame route that conducted us thither, and offered no novelty that deferved attention, I have difpatched, with little more than the names of thofe places where we flopped for refrefhment, or repofej After a breakfaft at Chingeho, which we found lefs plentiful than on former occafions, we arrived early in the afternoon at Pekin, and proceeded to the palace of the Britifh Ambaffador. His Excellency employed a great part of this morning in examining Friday 2 the feveral arrangements which had been made in the palace during his abfence; the whole of which was favoured with his approbation. The gentlemen of thc fuite alfo received their particular baggage in their refpective apartments, and thc final adjuftment and diflribution of the different parts of the palace was fettled. In the principal room of the Ambaffador's apartments, the flate canopy, brought from England, was immediately put up. It was made of flowered crimfon latin, with feltoons and curtains, enriched 2/ with C *7° ) x793* with fringes of gold. On the back part of it the arms of Great Bri-Scptembcr. tain appeared in the richeft embroidery; the floor beneath it was fpread with a beautiful carpet, on which were placed five chairs of flate, of the fime materials as the canopy, and fringed with gold. The center chair immediately under the coat of arms was elevated on. a platform above the reft, to which there was an afcent of two Heps. Thc whole had been arranged with great taftc in England, and, in its prcfent fituation, made a very fuperb appearance, in every refpect fuitcd to the occafion for which it was erected. At the other extremity of thc apartment, oppofite to the canopy, were hung thc whole length portraits of their Britannic Majeflics; fo that this chamber wanted no decoration appropriate to the exterior of diplomatic dignity. Thefe difpofitions being complcated, and in a manner equally fuited to the fplendor of the embalfy, as to thc individual convenience of thofe who compofed it, nothing remained to perfect: the domeflic eflabhfhment, but thc regulation of the different tables to be provided for the feveral departments of the houfehold; which it was thought proper to delay till thc arrival of thc Emperor in Pekin. Captain Mackintofh propofed to fet off on the Monday to join his fhip, the Hindoftan, now lying at Chufan, and to proceed to Canton, there to take in his cargo for England, having feen, as he conceived, a favourable commencement of this important embaffy, in which his mailers, the Eafl India Company, had fuch a predominant intercft. Saturday 2$. This day the Emperor of China returned to the Imperial palace in Pekin ; and his arrival was announced by a grand difcharge of artillery. The occupations of this day in the palace of the Ambaflador were entirely confined to writing letters for England, of which Capt. Mackintofh was to take thc charge \ it then being confidcred by Lord Macartney as a fettled arrangement with the court of Pekin, 4 that ( >v ) that the Englifh embafly fhould remain in that city during the winter, 1793. to carry on the important negotiations with which it was cntruffed. Vs^S^her! His Excellency received the vifits of feveral mandarins. Certain Sunday packages defigned for the Emperor were prepared to be prefented to his Majefly: they confided of fuperhne broad and other cloths of various kinds of Britiih manufacture. In confequence of the ficknefs that prevailed among the foldiers Monday 3** belonging to the embaffy, it was thought expedient to ellablifh an hofpital for their more fpeedy cure, as well as to feparate the invalids from thofe who were in health and capable of duty. Dr. Gillan and Dr. Scott were accordingly de fired to examine a range of buildings behind the Ambaffador's apartments, with an open area beyond it, and on thc report of thofe gentlemen, it was determined that they fhould be formed into an hofpital. Accordingly feveral arrangements took place, to render it comfortable to thofe who were under the neceflity of taking up an occafional abode in it. At this time, of the fifty men which compofed the guards of the embaffy, eighteen were in fuch a flate as to require the attentive care and fkill of thc phyflcian, A mandarin came from the Emperor to rcquefl that thc ordnance O&ober. prefents might be immediately fent to thc palace of Yeumen-manyeu- Tuclda>' u men, where they were to be proved and examined: but the Chinefe thought themfelves equal to thc talk of proof and examination ; for the Britifh artillery foldiers were never employed, as was expected, to difplay their fuperior ikill in thc fcience of engineering and gunnery. Thc chariots, ccc. were alfo removed to the fame place, and the fuller and carpenters belonging to thc embaffy, with fome affiflant mechanics, were fent thither to unpack and hang them on their carriages : this was done, but thc workmen were not permitted to adjult them fully for prefentation; and came back in the evening to Pekin without receiving orders to return to complete their work, and explain Z % the- ( ) the mode of applying the different machines, under their direction, Co the refpective ufes for which they were deiigned. Wcdacfdayz. The Ambaffador received a formal intimation to wait on thc Emperor as to-morrow; when it was hoped and anxioufly expected that the final ratifications would take place between the miniflers of the two courts, and prepare the way for entering upon the projected negotiation, from which fo many advantages were expected to be derived to the commerce of Great Britain. Oftobcr. The lick were this day removed to that part of the palace which had been fitted up as an hofpital. Another package of prefents was opened and examined preparatory to their being fent to his Imperial Majefly. ThuvkLiy 3. The Ambaffador, in obedience to the requifition of ycflcrday, went in a private manner to the Emperor's palace; where bufinefs was tranfactcd between his Excellency and thc officers of flate; and it was a report among the Englifh fuite, but on what foundation I cannot tell, that the rcquifitions of the Britifh Minifler were fubmitted to thc coniideration of the Imperial Council. This conference lalted two hours, but the refult of it was not, as may be fuppofed, a matter, of general communication; but there were no apparent reafons to fuppofe that it was not favourable to the fuccefs of the embaffy. As I had this day attended thc Ambalfador, I fhall jufl mention what I faw of the Imperial palace, which will be comprifed in a very few lines. It is fituated in the center of the city, and furrounded by a. wall about twenty feet in height, which is covered with planter painted of a red colour, and the whole crowned or capped with green varnilhed tiles. It is laid to occupy a fpace that may be about about feven Engliih miles in circumference, and is furroimdcd by a kind of gravel walk : it contains a vail range ol gardens, full, as I was informed, of all thofe artificial beauties, which decorate the gardens of China. I can only fay, that the entrance to thc palace is by a very flrong flone gateway, which fupports a building ot two flories : the interior court is fpacious, and thc range of building that fronts the gateway rifes to the height of three flories, and each of them is ornamented with a balcony or projecting gallery, whofe railing, palifadoes, and pillars, are enriched with gilding: the roof is covered with yellow mining tiles, and thc body of thc edifice is plaillered and painted with various colours. This outer court is the only part of this palace which I had an opportunity of feeing, and is a fine example of Chinefe architecture. The gate is guarded by a large body of foldiers, and a certain number of mandarins of the firfl ciafs are always in attendance about it. Of the magnificent and fplend id apartments this palace contains for private ufe or public fervice; of its gardens appropriated to pleafure, or for the fole production of fruit and flowers, of which report faid fo much, i am not authorifed to fay any thing, as my view of the whole was very confined ; but, though I am ready to acknowledge that the palace had fomething impofing in its appearance, when compared with the diminutive buildings of the city that fur round it, 1 could fee nothing that difpofed me to believe the extraordinary accounts which I had heard and read of thc wonders of thc Imperial refidence of Pekin. It cannot be fuppofed for a moment, that thofe who had no other rrida concern in the embaffy, than as a part of the retinue neceffary for its exterior conduct: and appearance, mould be informed of any of the official circumfiances of it j they could, therefore, only judge of its progrefs from thc general arrangements which were made concerning its domeflic eftablifhmcnt. It was, however, with particular Satisfaction that the following directions were this day received from thc 5 Ambaffador,, f 1*4 ) Ambaflador, relative to the future order and difpofition of the tables for the different departments of the houfehold; as an attention to domeflic bufinefs feemed to announce his Excellency's opinion concerning thc permanency of our refidence at Pekin j and, of courfe, an entire difpofition in the court of China to give the negotiation every advantage that might be derived from frequent conference and deliberate confultation. The order of the tables was as follows : Thc table of the Ambaflador was ordered for himfelf alone; with two covers for gentlemen of the fuite, who were to be invited in daily fuccellion to dine with him. The next in precedence was that of Sir George Staunton, at which he was to be accompanied by Mr. Maxwell, one of thc fecretaries, Doctor Gillan, Captain Mackintofh, while he remained at Pekin, Mr. Barrow, and Mailer Staunton. The table of Lieut. Col. Benfon was to be attended by the Lieutenants Parifli and Crewe, Dr. Scott, Jvleffrs. Hickcy, Baring, Winder, Alexander, and Dr. Dinwiddie. Thc foregoing difpofition of the houfehold commenced on this day; but it was thought proper to continue the Chinefe difhes till the kitchen in the palace was completed, when a certain proportion of Englifh. cookery was to be blended with that of the country. To complete the table arrangements, the chefls containing the fervice of plate were removed to the apartments of thc Ambaffador, in order to be prepared for general ufe. The cabinets of Britifh manufacture were removed by Chinefe porters to the Imperial palace. Saturdays- A large quantity of plated goods, hardware, and cutlery, were unpacked at Sir George Staunton's apartments, a confiderable quantity of ( *75 ) of which was damaged. There were alfo feveral of Argand's lamps, ( '79.1-with a great variety of watches, trinkets, jewellery, &c. &c. Thc Oftober. whole of this cargo was equally divided between the Emperor and the Grand Choulaa. The carpenters with feveral aififfants were fent to Yeumen-manyeu-men, to clean and complete the carriages, and alfo to fet up the model of the Royal Sovereign, an Engliih flrit-rate man of war. The Emperor himfelf came to the palace; and, after he had taken a view or the prefents, his Majeily was pleafed to order eight ingots of filver to be given to each perfon; which were inftantly received. Thc account I have given of the perfon of the Emperor was from a partial view as he was feated in a palanquin; I fhall, therefore, repeat the more particular defcription of him, which was given by the fix Englifh artificers who were employed in fitting up and arranging the prefents, when he came to view them, and who were the immediate objects of the Imperial generofity which has jufl been mentioned. The Emperor is about five feet ten inches in height, and of a flen-dcrbut elegant form ; his complexion is comparatively fair, though his eyes are dark; his nofe is rather aquiline, and the whole of his countenance prefents a perfect regularity of features, which, by no means, announce the great age lie is faid to have attained: his perfon is attracting, and his deportment accompanied by an affability, which, without lelfening the dignity of the prince, evinces the amiable character of the man. His drefs confiflcd of a loofe robe of yellow filk, a cap of black velvet with a red ball on the top, and adorned with a peacock's feather, which is the peculiar diffusion of mandarins of the firfl clafs. He wore filk boots embroidered with gold, and a fafh of blue filk girded. Ids waifh As ( '76 ) As to the opinion which his Imperial Majefly formed of thc pre. October. fents, we could not learn, as he never communicated it, at leafl, to any of thofe mandarins, by whom it would have been conveyed to the palace of the Britiih embalfy. We only knew, at this time, that the two camera obfeuras were returned, foolifhly enough, as more fuitcd to die amufeme-nt of children, than thc information of men of fcience. A large number of bales, containing various kinds of broad and narrow cloths of Englifh manufacture, together writh a confiderable quantity of camlets, two barrel organs, with the remainder of fuch prefents as were not damaged, were removed from the palace by the Chinefe employed on thefe occafions. Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, fomctimes accompanied the prefents to explain the nature and application of them, or performed that office to the mandarins, previous to their departure. As it now was become a matter of certainty that the embaffy would remain for fome time at Pekin, thc fuperb faddles which had been brought over for his Excellency, and Sir George Staunton, were unpacked and got ready, with all the elegant furniture, for immediate ufe. A very large quantity of prefents were fent from the Emperor to their Britannic Majcflies, accompanied with others for the Ambaffador and his fuite; which were, as ufual, diftributed among them. /Sunday 6. At noon his Excellency went, with no other attendants than two gentlemen of his retinue, and one fervant, to vifit the Emperor; but, on his arrival at court, he very much alarmed the gentlemen with him by fainting away : he was immediately conveyed home, and continued to be very ill during thc remainder of the day. The intended interview, therefore, was not effected in conference of his fildden indifpo* Jitio/i, In ( *77 ) In the forenoon of this day the fervants of the embalfy were fummon- 1793. ed to the apartments of Sir George Staunton, and the foldiers to thofe Q6\obeU of Lieut. Col. Ben fon; when each perfon received four pieces of filk, four pieces of dongaree, (a fort of coarfe nankeen) and a junk of filver, being a fquare folid piece of that metal, weighing fixtccn ounces, as a prefent from his Imperial Majefly. The gentlemen and mechanics were difmiffed from their attendance at the palace of Yeumen-^manyeumen ; for, as all the optical, mechanical, and mathematical inflrumcnts were removed from thence, their prefence was no longer neceffary. Befides, feveral of thefe prefents, when a trial of them was made before the mandarins;, were found to fail in the operations and powers attributed to them ; and others of them did not excite that furprife and admiration in the breaths of thc Chinefe philofophers, which Dr. Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow expected, who immediately determined upon the ignorance that prevailed in China, and thc grofs obflinacy of the people. A report was in circulation this day throughout the palace, that the embaffy was to quit Pekin in the beginning of the week: a circumflance which was fo contrary to the general expectation, that it did not at firfl meet with thc credit, which it was afterwards found to deferve. « CHAP. CHAP. XVI. Orders ijjuedfor the fuite to prepare for an Immediate departure from Pekin. TIk Emperor refufes to allow of any delay. Great confufion occafioned by this fudden departure. The embaffy leaves Pekin. Returns to Tong-tchew. Order of the junks which are to take the embaffy to Canton. Difficulties refpeSilng the baggage. The junks enter a canal. Defcription of It. Circumfiances of the voyage. View and cultivation of the country. The Chinefe pofi defcribed, Pafs through feveral large cities. A general account of them. T HE carpenters were employed in flrengthcning the cafes that con* tained the prefents from the Emperor of China to their Britannic Majefties. In the afternoon the report of yefterday was confirmed by an order, iffued by the Ambaffador, to the whole fuite to prepare for departure from Pekin, on Wednefday. Our furprize at fuch unexpected intelligence may be readily conceived, but the mortification which appeared throughout the palace, on the occafion, was at leaft equal to the aftonifhment: for, in one moment, as it were, all the domeflic arrangements, which had been formed with every attention to individual comfort and repofe, were overthrown—our fatiguing pilgrimage-was to be renewed, and with all the humiliation that accompanies a forced fubmiffion to peremptory power, and the painful defpondency which arifes from the fudden annihilation of fanguine and well-grounded hope. But, though wc might, in the firfl moments of furprize, be difpofed to feel fomcthing for ourfelves, fuperior con-fiderations foon fucceeded, and wc forgot thc trifle of perfonal inconvenience, in the failure of a political meafure, which had been purfucd ( 179 ) purfued with fo much labour, hazard, and perfeverance ; had been 1793. fupported with fuch enormous expence, and to which our country oaob^ looked with eager expectation, for the aggrandizement of its commercial interefts. There was, however, no remedy ; and nothing now could be done but to life every endeavour to prolong the period affigned to the departure of the embaffy, that there might be fuflicicnt time to make the neceffary preparations for leaving Pekin with convenience, and that thc Ambaffador might not appear to be turned out of the metropolis of a country, where he had represented the crown of Great Britain. For thefe reafon s, and they were, it muff be acknowledged, of very-great importance, the attendant mandarin was requefkd to flate to the prime minifler the impoflibility of our departure at fo fhort a notice, not only without very great inconvenience, but abfolute injury; as it would be impoflible to pack up and arrange the baggage, &c. of thc Ambaffador and his fuite, in a manner to tranfport it with fafcty, in fo fhort a time as was then allotted for that purpofe. This commiffion he readily undertook to execute; and, in the evening, he returned with the permiflion of thc Grand Choulaa, to delay the departure of the Britiih embafly till Friday, which would have given time fufficient to have made every neceffary preparation. The mandarin came with a counter-order of thc pcrmiffion of ycfter- Tuefday 8. day, from the Emperor himfelf, who exprefsly commanded the Ambaffador, and all his retinue, to quit Pekin on the next day. They were again thrown into a renewed flate of confufion, which I fhall not attempt to defcribc. It was reported in the palace, by the Chinefe, that the Emperor having confidered the bufinefs as completed between the two courts, expreffed his furprize that the Englifh minifler fhould wilh to make an unnecclfary flay at Pekin, and not be eager to return to his own country. His Imperial Majefly was alfo faid to be alarmed at the num- A a 2 her ( vSo ) »703- bcr of lick perfons in the retinue of the embaffy, and fo apprehend ktubcr the communication of a contagious difordcr among his fubjeds. It was alfo reported, that when the brafs mortars were tried in the prefence of the Emperor, his Majefly admired the fkill and ingenuity of thefe engines of deffrucfion, but deprecated the fpirit of a people who employed them j nor could he reconcile their improvements in the fyflcm of deffrucfion to the benign fpirit which they reprefented as. the foul and operating principle of their religion. Many other reports of a fimilar nature were propagated ; but the reafon affigned by the Chinefe government, for thus urging the departure of the Ambaffador, was the near approach of winter, when the rivers would be frozen, and the journey to Canton, through the northern provinces, be crowded with inconvenience and impediment. Whatever policy governed the councils of China on this occafion ; whether it was an enlarged view of national interefl, which it was fuppofed the propofitions of Great Britain would not tend to advance, or any difgufl or prejudice proceeding from mifconducl, and mif-nunagemcnt in thc embaffy itfelf, the manner in which the Ambaffador was difmiffed from Pekin, was ungracious, and mortifying in the extreme. For even if it is fuppofed to be a policy of the Chinefe government, that no foreign minifler fhall be received, but on particular occafions, and that he is not fuffered to remain in the country when he has finifhed his particular million; it does not appear that the bufinefs was at all advanced which Lord Macartney was employed to negotiate ; and he certainly would not have entered into any domestic arrangements, if he had not confldered himfelf as fecure of remaining at Pekin throughout the winter. He muft have been encouraged to believe that his refidence would not only be permitted, but accepts hie to his Imperial Majefly j and that there was a very friendly difpofition in the councils of China, towards the entering into a treaty with Great Britain, refpccling a more enlarged fyflcm of commercial intercourfe between the two countriesfc The ( ) The jcaloufy of the Chinefe government had fo far fubfided as to 1793. exprefs a with for an embalfy from this country, and afterwards to oaober. receive it. The power of Great Britain, its poffeffions in the Eaft Indies, with the manner in which they have been acquired, and the general ftate of Europe, are fubjects, by no means, unknown at the court of Pekin; nor was the Engliih fettlement at Chufan, or the manner in which it was deftroyed, altogether forgotten. The Emperor himfelf had not only manifefted a refpect for the Britiih embafly, by the great attentions which had accompanied its progrefs, but difcovered an impatient defire to receive it by inviting it to his refidence in Tartary, when he was fo foon to return to Pekin. In fhort, there was no apparent public reafon, when the Ambaffador was once received, why he fhould not be permitted to proceed in his negotiation : But, even, if any change had taken place in the mind of the Emperor, or any prejudice arifen againft the embaffy, from any indif-crction or mifconduct in the management of it, which might induce the court of China to put an immediate termination to it ; it is wholly irreconcileable to the common rules of political decorum and civility,, as well as the principles of juftice and humanity, that an Ambaffador, of fo much confequence as Lord Macartney, fhould be difmiifed, under his peculiar circumfiances, without the leaft ceremony; and be not only ordered to depart without allowing the time neceffary to make the common arrangements for his journey, but alfo refufed a refpite only of two days to his urgent fblicitations. In fhort, we entered Pekin like paupers; we remained in it like prifoners; and we quitted it like vagrants. This day,--Newman, a marine, who, with three of his comrades, had been taken from on board the Lion, to fill the vacancies occafioncd by the death of fome of the foldiers belonging to the embaffy, died of the flux; and to prevent this circumflance from being, known., his corpfe was conveyed away in the night. Lord: ( Ifc ) 1793. Lord Macartney fent his own flate carriage as a prefent to thc Grand *^~o^ua^ Choulaa, who refufed to accept it. It was then re-demanded to be unflung and packed up; but no anfwer whatever was returned ; and fo fhort was the period allotted us to flay, and fo much was to be done in it, that there was no time to make farther inquiries concerning the fate of this chariot, or thc reafons of fuch an ungracious behaviour on the part of the minifler by whom it was refufed. The hurry and confufion of this day is beyond defcription; and if the foldiers had not been called in to have affilled in packing the baggage and flores, a much greater part mufl have been left behind, that actually became a prey to the Chinefe. Thc portraits of their Majeflies were taken down, but as the cafes in which they had come from England, had been broke up for fixtures in the apartments, a few deals, huffily nailed together, were now their only protection. As for the flate canopy, it was not taken down, but abfolutely torn from the wall ; as the original cafe that contained it, had been alfo employed in various convenient ufes, and there was not time to make a new one. The flate chairs were prefented to fome of the mandarins; and the canopy was given to fome of Lord Macartney's fervants. Though, in the fcramble, the Chinefe contrived to come in for a fliare. They alfo contrived to purloin a very large quantity of wine; nor was it pofliblc, in fuch a fcene of hurry and confufion, to prevent thofe opportunities which they were on the watch to feizc. In one way or other, however, the public baggage, flores, furniture, &c. were jumbled together as well as circumfiances would admit; and no pains or activity were wanting in thofe employed to perform that fudden and unexpected duty. Weducfdayg. The whole of the fuite were occupied, at a very early hour of this moVning, in getting their packages in readinefs, which were taken away by the Chinefe appointed to convey them on thc road. The whole of the embaffy foon followed. Newman, the marine, was buried on i the the road to Tong-tchew, and at that town we arrived in the evening, L iy?3'_ j where we found a great change in the article of our accommodations, oaober. The apartments which were now allotted to us, were nothing more than temporary fheds, hung with flraw matting. On going to the river fide we found the junks ready to receive us ; Thurfdayic* and when the circumfiances of the embarkation were fettled, the junks were arranged in following order : No. i. The Ambaffador. 2. Sir George and Mafler Staunton. 3. Captain Mackintofh, Mr. Maxwell, Mr. Barrow,, and Dr. Gillan. 4. Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, with the Lieutenants Parifh and Crewe. 5. Melfrs. Winder, Barring, Huttner, and Plumb. 6. The Doctors Dinwiddic and Scott, with Melfrs. Hickejr and Alexander. 7. The Muficians, Mechanics. The mandarin, Van-Tadge-In, and his attendants, were in feparate junks. All thefe matters being finally adjufled, his Excellency, with Sir George Staunton, &c. went on board their junks : while the gentlemen were employed in getting their baggage into their refpective veffels, which exhibited a new and fupcrior fcene of confufion to any we had yet experienced. There was, in the firfl place, no fmall difficulty inafforting the junks, with the perfons who belonged to therm Nor were there a fullicient number of coolies to tranfport the different effeets on board the veffels. In fhort, thofe attentions which were fhewn to the Ambaffador on his former abode in this city, feemed to have been forgotten; and the place which was now appropriated to receive ( i|4 ) ceivc thc baggage, was a fmall fpot, on the fide of the river, and protected only by a fcreen of matting. T have already mentioned the Arrange conduct of the Grand Choulaa, it (peeling the chariot which he refuted to accept from Lord Macartney, and then refufed to return it. On our arrival, however, at Tong-tchew, the chariot appeared to have found its way thither before us; and though we were rather in the habit of being unprized, we could not help feeling a considerable degree of ailonilhment at feeing the carriage oppofite the houfe appointed for the reception of the embaffy, furrounded by crowds of Chinefe, and many of its ornaments defaced. It was, accordingly, drawn down to the river fide, and a cafe being made font on the fpot, to fecure it from any further injury, it was re-configned to the hold of a junk ; and after having rolled a few ports in China, was hereafter fent to figure at Madras. About four o'clock the whole fuite were embarked, when dinner was immediately ferved; nor was it long before they retired to reft, after the moft fatiguing day they had experienced fince their arrival in China. Friday u. At a very early hour the junks were unmoored, and thc fleet proceeded down thc river: but as I have already given the belt defcription in my power of the country through which it flows, and the local circumfiances of it, I fhall pafs on to the day when we changed the natural for the artificial water, with one folitary obfervation; that though we ftill attracted the notice of the inhabitants who lived near thc river, thc refpectful attentions of our former voyage were not repeated. This morning the fleet entered a very noble canal, which communicates with the river near Tyen-fing. It is a work of great labour, and prodigious expence ; and its fides are faced with mafonry throughout its courfe. At certain diftances locks are erected to give a current to —v—— October. Wedntf-day i6, ( >8i ) to thc water: they are in the form of an half-moon, and confine the ,_A water to a narrow paffage in the middle of thc canal, which occafions O&ober. a fall of about three feet. Thc junks acquired an accelerated motion in palling thefe locks, which continued for a confiderable diflance; and, in order to prevent their receiving any injury from linking againft, the walls of the lock, which, on account of the fudden ferment of the water, it is not often poffible to avoid, men are always itationed there to let down large leathern pads, which effectually break the (hock that would otherwifebe felt from fuch an accident. We paffed through at leafl thirty of thefe locks in the courfe of this day's voyage, without being able to difcovcr any variation in them, as to their conflruction, or thc effects produced by them. On each fide of the canal, the country, as far as thc eye can reach, is one entire flat, but fmiling with fertility. Several villages, with their crowds of inhabitants, varied the fcene j and, at each of them the foldiers of the diflrict appeared in military array, and faluted thc fleet as it paffed with three guns. We paffed by feveral towns and villages, and at every one of them Thurfday f7, thc Ambaflador and mandarins were received with military honours. It may be proper to obferve in this place, that a mandarin of the fecond clafs, named Chootadzin, was on board the fleet, and was to continue with us till our arrival at Hoang-tchcw, of which province he is appointed the viceroy. Van-Tadge-In, although a mandarin of the firft clafs, was inferior to him in authority, as thc appointment of viceroy gives precedence to the higheft order of mandarins. I ob ferved a confiderable number-of rice fields, in which there were ■ flone gutters or channels, finifhed with great neatnefs, and admirably contrived to convey water to every part of the plantations. B b For »793- For fome days the provifions with which we had been fupphed.,. * Ottobcr" were not only deficient in quantity, but were fent ready dreffed and cold; fo that we found it neceffary to drefs them again, or rather heat them up as well as we could. Mr. Plumb, the vehicle of all complaints, and who, in general, contrived to procure redrefs, was employed on the prefent occafion to reprefent the di flat is faction which was felt by the different departments of the embaffy, refpecfing the deficiency and quality of the daily provifions. ."Friday 18. The. fame flat and fertile country appeared on either fide of the canal, though the view was this day varied by feveral gardens, in which, there were plantations of that fhrub which bears what is called thc Imperial and gunpowder teas: it growrs to the fize of a goofberry bum, with leaves of the fame fize. The former of thofe teas is collected from the firfl, and the other, from the fucceffive, bloffoms of that plant. We continued to pafs through a fucceflion of locks, and to excite die curiofity of various towns and villages which poured forth their inhabitants to fee thc extraordinary fpecfacle of an European embafly. oatujday 19, Towns and villages alternately prefented themfelves on either fide of the canal, with their prodigious population, but poffeffed no peculiarity, and offered no circumfiances of novelty which would juflify a particular defcription. The reprcfentation which had been made concerning the provifions produced an immediate change in the fupply of them : we this day-received a large quantity of mutton and beef, with fowls and ducks; ro thefe were added bread, flour, tea, fugar, rice, vegetables of all kinds, with foy, oil, candles, charcoal, and wood ; and, while thc folid part of the meal, with the means of preparing it, were amply adminiflered. ( ) adminiflered, the elegant addition of fruits of various kinds, and the "793* liquors of the country, were not forgotten. oftoher. In thc very unexpected fituation of the embalfy, it was very natural for thofe who compofed the retinue of it to be continually forming conjectures, and eagerly inquiring after any information that might tend to elucidate the extraordinary circumfiances of it. Thus we became acquainted with various reports on the fubject, fome of which we were difpofed to credit, while we rejected others, as they teemed to concur with, or contradict, the events of the moment. Thus wc were not unwilling to believe, as it was propagated among us by fome of the Chinefe, that a Tartar mandarin had been able to prejudice the Emperor againfl the Englifh people, by representing them as barbarous, inhuman, and dcflitute of all thofe amiable qualities which they pretended to polfefs : nor were many of the fuite indifpofed to believe that to fuch an unpropitious circumflance the embaffy had been treated, to ufe no worfe cxpreifion, with fuch ftrange difrefpect and peremptory difmiffton. It was alfo added, that Van-Tadge-In, the attendant mandarin, had fince represented the conduct and character of the embaffy in a very different point of view, in a written memorial addreffed to the Emperor; which had induced his Imperial Majefly to give orders that the Britifh Ambaffador and his fuite, fhould be abundantly fupplied with every thing neceffary for their convenience and comfort, and that they might at all times enjoy the liberty of going on fhore, and amufing themfelves at their own difcretion. We paffed a great number of tobacco plantations. Thc Chinefe Sunday 20. cultivate and manufacture this plant in a very fuperior degree, and arc fuppofed to poffefs greater varieties of it, than any other country in the world. The quantity of tobacco confumed, and, of courfe, grown in China, mufl be beyond all calculation, as fmoaking is univerfilly B b % practifed, ( i88 ) praz4 lined : it is locked, and the key is given to the cuff ody of one of the attendant foldiers, whofe office it is to deliver it to the pofl-mafler : the box is faflcncd on the courier's fhoulders with flraps, and is decorated at the bottom with a number of fmall bells, which being fhaken by the motion of the horfc, make a loud gingling* noife, that announces the approach of the pofl. Thc poll-man is efcorted by five light-horfe-men to guard him from robbery or interruption. The fwiftefl horfes are alfo employed on the occafion, which are renewed at every flage;. fo that the polls of China may vie in expedition with the Engliih mail. The fucceflion of populous and large towns was fo continual, that FritJay it would be tedious to mention them but as a general characTxriilic of the country ; unlefs fome particular circumflance, from its novelty or interefl, fhould juflify defcription. When I rofe this morning, I was furprifed to find the junk fleet at anchor in the heart of a very large city, through the center of which the canal paffes : it is here croffed by a continual fucceflion of bridges, which are connected with a circular breafl-work on each fide, guarded by foldiers, who fuffer no veffels to pafs till they have been infpected by mandarins who prefide over that department. The fleet was favoured here with the ufual filutc of three guns, and a very large body of foldiers was drawn up on both fides of the canal: they were completely armed, and wore large helmets, which gave them a very military appearance, while their ranks were enlivened with feveral Hands of colours. At fix o'clock the fleet left this city, and at ten paffed through another, which, as far as we could judge from our palfage, was of equal di men lions and population. Its name is Kord-cheeaung. \ ( l9? ) rff?3* ^° me ^ °^ cana^' anc* i*1 tne center °f tne city, we faw a very prober, rnagnificent and lofty pagoda; it rofe to the height of ten flories, each of which is furrounded with an elegant gallery, and projecting canopies, fupported by pillars. The chief mandarin of the place has an handfome palace guarded by a fort, whofe garrifou came forth to falute the Ambalfador, as the veffels paffed by it. In the fubfequent progrefs of this day^s voyage we paffed four other cities, of equal magnitude with thofe which have been already mentioned ; and about nine o'clock at night anchored in the city of Lee-yaungoa, which was illuminated to do honour to the diftinguifhed perfons on board the fleet; nor were any of thofe marks of refpect omitted which had been demonftrated in all the places, according to their rank, through which we had paffed. A very large body of troops, confifting at leaft of a thoufand men, were drawn up on the banks of the canal; and each man held a pole, with a coloured paper lanthern hanging from it, which, when the troops halt, is ftuck in the ground; the whole forming a very lingular and pleafing fpecfacle. Saturday 26. The air was this morning extremely cold ; the thermometer having funk fo low as forty degrees. At feven o'clock we paffed a lock, whofe current bore us into the city of Kaunghoo, which, from the great number of junks laying there, muft be a place of immenfe trade. Indeed, the water was fo entirely covered with them, that our fleet was obliged to come to anchor, in order to give time for a paffage to be made between them. The canal took a winding courfe through this place, which is elevated above it, and its banks fall in beautiful dopes to the water. The ( '9> ) The weather was moderate and agreeable: and the profpect was »793« varied with meadows of the richefl verdure, and covered with flocks oaober. of fheepand herds of cattle. We paffed alfo feveral large fields of Sunday paddy and millet, and the eye ranged over a vafl extent of flat and fertile country. The voyage of this day furnifhed no variety—unlefs a great number Monday 28.. of flour-mills may be fuppofed to vary the fcene. The growing wealth of cultivation we had feen every hour as we Tuefday 29, proceeded on our voyage, and not a fpot appeared, which towns and villages did not occupy, but proved the fkill and labour of the huf-bandman. This morning, however, gave us a profpect of that labour, for we paffed feveral extenfive fields where the peafants were bufy with their ploughs; thefe machines, fo effential in agriculture, were drawn by oxen, and though of a very clumfy form,, when compared with thofe of our own country, perform their office with good effect, as the ground appeared to be got into a very promifing flate of tillage.. We faw a fleet of junks laden with tea for the Canton market; nor was it an unnatural, or uninterefling obfervation, that in the chance of commerce, fome of their cargoes might ultimately be configned to our own country,, and arrive there before us.. The profpects of this day were enlivened by pagodas, and country feats; fome of which were adorned with beautiful gardens, and others furrounded with the finefl orchards f ever beheld. This morning the fleet paffed through a wailed city named Hoong- ThmfUay loafoo. This is another of thofe places where the vafl number of junks which covered its canal, juflify the opinion of its extcnfive commerce. In its neighbourhood there arc large plantations of tea, extenfive fields of tobacco, and a great number of large flour-mills. I We Wednef-day 30. ( ) '793' Wc had feen frequent and large plantations of rice; hut the fields November, of cotton, which this morning prefentcd themfelves to our attention, • ■ y u formed a curious and pleafing novelty. I obferved that the cotton was of the nankeen colour, and is plucked from the top of a fhort flalk. Of cities, towns, locks, and bridges, we have feen and faid fo much, that the reader and the writer would be equally fatigued with the daily enumeration of them. CHAP. ( l93 ) C II A P. XVII. Various circumjlances of the voyage. Enter the Yellow River. Pafs feveral towns, lakes, &c. Ceremonies at the city ofKiangfou. Enter a beautiful lake ; defcription of it. Enter another river ; circumfiances of it. Pafs feveral'cities, &c. Dock-yards for building junks. Arrive at the city of Mee-you-mee-awng—beautiful country. Further account of the Chinefe troops. A mandarin's palace and pagoda defcribed. THE canal appeared now to have affumed the form of a contider- 1793. able river, and brought us to a very large city, where we came to an N^mTer. anchor at fix o'clock in the morning, having paffed a fort at the en- Saturday trance, by which the fleet had been faluted. When I mention the fituation and circumfiances of this city, it would be necdlefs to defcribe it as a place of great trade, or fpeak #f the inconceivable number of junks which were moored at its quays and wharfs, it will be fufKcicnt to fay, that it is warned by large canals, and that, on the fouth fide of it, there is an extenfive bay which communicates with the Yellow river, to give ibmc notion of its commercial chara&er. Here the fleet remained at anchor about an hour; when it unmoored, and foon entered the bay, with an alarming rapidity, through a large lock, conflrucled with rufhes, curioufly matted toge-tlier, and fecurcd with logs of wood. This bay is of great extent, and would contain the proudefl fleets of Europe, while its fhores offer an amphitheatre of landfcape C c beauty. C m ) 179j. beauty. The hills are verdant to their very fummits, which are fome* Novcmbeiv times crowned with pagodas ; and the lower parts are enriched with. houfes and gardens, and that variety of cultivation which diftinguifhes* this extraordinary country. On entering this bay, it was difcovered that there were a variety of currents running with great violence, and in oppofite directions, at not. lefs than feven miles an hour ; and the fkill of navigating it confifls in* being able to get into that individual current which runs towards the.: place of the veifefs particular deftination.. In this fituation we mould have been.glad, if it had been confiflent with the courfe of the voyage, to have caff anchor, and enjoyed, at leifure, the contemplation of its beauties; but the. fleet immediately iteered towards a large river, which it foon entered, and whofe ftream foon bore us, as it were, into the bofom of a rich and beautiful, country. At the mouth of this river there is a large town, with the palace o£ a mandarin of the firfl clafs, furrounded by a flrong flone wall: it is a very large edifice, crowned with turrets, richly gilt and ornamented after the fafhion of the country. The front looks towards the bay, of. which it commands an extenfive and enchanting profpect. Town now fucceeded to town; the country offered the mofl beau^ tiful views, of which no adequate idea can be given by written defcription. And when I mention the country as one fcene of varied cultivation, divided by well-planted cuclofures, peopled with farms that are furrounded by orchards, enriched with villas, and their ornamental gardens, a very inadequate picture is given of the expanfive fcenery on either hjde of the navigation which.bore us through it. At two o'clock, and as we were preparing for dinner, the junks arrived at a very large town, through which the river took a courfe of i at ( m ) «t leafl three miles. This place is formed on a more regular plan than L *791- _ any which we had feen in China. The houfes were uniformly built November, of brick, varied with an intermixture of blue flone, and feldom deviated from the height of two flories. The ufual honours of forts and military guards were deceived here% as through every place we paffed, of whatever fize or diflinclion it might be : the walled city, and the village, were equally attentive te this aft of official civility, according to their refpective capacities. It may, indeed, be here ob ferved, that through the whole of our travels in this country, whether by land, or by water, and not excepting Tartary, the villages, as well as the cities, have their mandarin, «and his guards proportioned to the magnitude and confequence of the place where they are cantoned; and that the interior parts of the kingdom are equally fecured by troops, as the frontiers, or fea coaft: we may, therefore, be faid to pafs, almoft, between a continued line ■of foldiers, on each fide of the canals, or rivers; where the intervals are fo fmall between thofe villages and great towns, which form a chain of military cantonments. In the latter part of the afternoon we anchored, for fome time, at another confiderable town, where the junks flopped to take in a fupply of China wine. It is fituated on the fide of a large lake, which, in fome places, was divided only by a bank from the river jon which we failed. As I could not difcover any land in the diftant jpart of this large body of water, I was difpofed to confider it as an inlet of the Yellow fea. The country nowr began to wear a fwampy appearance, and, of courfe, did not altogether retain thofe beautiful features, which 1 have faintly reprefented it to poffefs, during the more recent parts of our voyage. This circumflance naturally arifes from the great number of jrivers, canals, and lakes, that aid the navigation of this part of the C c 2 country ; ( r0 ) mi* country; which being fuoject to occafional inundations from them,. November/ is frequently in the fituation that I have defcribed. In the evening we faw a very fine palace belonging to the mandarin of a town, through which we afterwards paffed in the night, and neither knew its form or character: nor fhould we have even difcerned thc grandeur of the mandarin's refidence, if he had not illuminated it in honour of the Ambaffador and his brethren on board the-junksj and ordered out his guard, confifting of at leafl five hundred-men, to enlighten with their paper lanterns the banks of the river. Sunday 3. This morning was very keen and frofly. The fleet anchored oppc^ fiteto a large lake, which appeared to communicate with feveral confiderable rivers. The country continues its flat and fwampy appearance. I have this day been informed that the river on which we are proceeding is called the Yellow river, which may probably be owing to the communications it may have with the Yellow fea. There is a confiderable town fituated between the lake and this river. The junks remained at anchor no longer than was neceflary to receive the ufual fupply of provifions and wine. In a fhort time we paffed another lake; and, without enumerating the canals, with their flone and wooden bridges, as well as the villages-and towns that claimed our tranfient attention, 1 fhall come at once to another lake that appeared to be much larger than any of thofe which havo been already mem tioned. A great number of junks were failing acrofs it in different directions, and feveral1 hundred filhing-boats were employed on it in their neceflary occupations. It is faid to abound in fifh j thofe we procured were fmall, of thc fize of a fprat, but in tafte and fhape re-fembling an haddock. Nor was our river deficient in its produce, a* plenty of fine trout were taken in it. At fome diflance from, thc river, on the fide oppofite to the lake, is a very large, and, as far as we could judge, magnificent city, furrounded by C *97 ) by a wall, named Chun-foong. The fuburbs which extend towards 179^. thc water, are alfo very confiderable, and the houfes of which they November, confiif are built of a dark flone, roofed with tiles of the fame colour. They are only of one flory, and their windows are circular and grated with iron, which give them a very difagreeable appearance. The wall of this town is not fo high as thofe we have hitherto feen, and, as far as I could judge by the telefcope, does not rife above fourteen or fifteen feet. The part of it which we paffed could not be lefs than two miles in extent; which may lead us to the plaufible conjecture that the city it-felf is at leaft eight miles in circumference. From its general appearance and acceffary circumfiances, no doubt could be entertained of its extenfive commerce; and, from the drefs and manners of its inhabitants, a fimilar opinion might be entertained of their urbanity and opulence. At four o'clock the fleet anchored at the extremity of the wall of this city, and received a frefh fupply of wine and provifions : thefe, indeed, were now provided in fuch plenty, that the poor people who navigated the junks found themfelves in a ftate of unexpected and unexampled luxury, from the fuperabundance of them. Several of the gentlemen from the other junks did us the honour to pay us a vifit, which produced an evening of great mirth and feftivity.. The weather was extremely cold. We paffed'two large lakes, Mb j which, by their refpective branches, unite with the river. At noon we failed through a confiderable town, and beyond it, faw feveral fmall canals on either fide of the river, with many boats on them employed in fifhing. The country is flat and marfhy, and wherever the road on the fide of the river paffes over fwampy dips or vallies, wooden platforms are erected to preferve the level, and avoid the inconvenience of finking into them. A large walled city, whofe name is Kiangfou, next claimed our attention. At the entrance of it a mandarin and his guards appeared on ( ) _I7 We had no fooncr palTcd this delightful fpot, poffefling fo much November, beauty in itfelf, and commanding fo large a portion of fine profpect around it, than we entered another river, the mouth of which is furrounded with high lands, offering the moft pi&urefcme fecnery that can be imagined: thick woods, ftately edifices, lofty pagodas, and mountainous Ihapes, with the river and thc lake, all blended together in one picture, may exercife the imagination of thofe who read this work, but fir tranfeends the defcriptive powers of thc writer of it. It may not alfo be unworthy of remark, that all the houfes which occupy the heights furrounding this bay, are ornamented with gilt pyramids or pinnacles, which rife from the roof, and give fome of the buildings the appearance of Gothic architecture. This river, as might be expected, foon brought us to a town, where the foldiers, which were drawn up on either fide of the water to falute the fleet, were different from thofe we had already feen, by the variety of their drefs and the colour of their ftandards; which were now multiplied into white, fcarlet, orange, light and dark blue and green. A mandarin's palace, very finely ornamented with painting, gilding, and filken ftreamers, a river crowded with junks, and a charming country on either fide of it, were the only objects that prefented themfelves to us, till we arrived before the city of Mee-you-mee-awng. The walls are of great height, and guarded by towers; while a kind of glacis flopes down from thc foot of it to a meadow, agreeably planted with trees that ftretch along the fide of the river, and add very much to the beauty of the place. Here the fleet anchored for a fhort time to take in the ufual fupply of provifions; and, from the general appearance of the city, as well as of the adjacent country, they feemed to have been formed •by the hand of Commerce itfelf for the purpofes of navigation. Beauty •( m ) • Beauty of fituation might alfo he added to thc abundance of its pro- ,__[793- ^ ductions; for the banks of the river that paffed before its walls, when November, they rofe into height, were covered with hanging woods and gardens* which gave a charming variety to thc tranficnt fecne. To thefe pleafing objects fucceeded one of a very different nature, and, by its contrail, acquired an additional importance. It was no lefs than a large body of foldiers drawn up on an efplanadc ; the line of which, extending near a mile, divided into companies dill inguifhed by the variety of their uniforms, and enlivened by the number, as Well as colour oi their llandards, offered a very beautiful fpcctacle. No other object for fome time attracted our notice, except a fmall dock yard for building junks, enclofed in a fine grove, which formed a pretty, picturefque fcene. The river now appeared to be proceeding boldly on into a rich, fertile country, but of more unequal fur face than any we had yet feen; when, by an unexpected meander, it brought us back to the city of Mee-you-mee-awng, to aftonifh us with the extent of it. Here we paffed through another large bridge, and near a circular baftion which commanded, by its battery, every direction of the river. On another turn of thc ftream, a very fine hill rofe up, as it were, before us, whofe lummit is crowned with a magnificent pagoda, and whofe declivities have all thc decoration that could be conferred on them by beautiful gardens and elegant buildings. At the foot of this elevated fpot are two flone arches, or gateways, which open to a walk that winds gradually up the hill to the pagoda. The palace of the mandarin, of whofe garden this hill appeared to form apart, is fituated on the banks of the river, from whence a broad flight of fleps afcends to the gate of the outer court. This edifice is perfectly fuited, both in its fize and appearance, to the dignity of its pof-ieffor. Like other buildings of the fame kind and character in China, D d it C 202 ) '^3- it is perfectly uniform in all its parts. The body of the houfe rifes November, to three ilories, and the wings are diminilhed to two. A paved court occupies a large fpace in the front j and thc whole is enclofed by a wall, including a large garden, that extends to the beautiful hill, of which a very inadequate (ketch has been already given. The country continues to make great advances in landfcape beaut)*: fields full of fertility, with their thick and fhady enclofuies; farms embofomed in orchards ; villas, and their gardens, we have long continued to fee : but now the mountain rifes before us, not rugged and barren, but verdant to its very top; while innumerable herds of cattle, and flocks of (liecp, hang down its Hoping paftures. Another town foon fucceeded; and to that a lake, furrounded by bilk of the fame kind, and covered with the fame inhabitants as thofe which-have jufl been mentioned. From this enchanting fpot our fleet paifed through a lock, and between a draw-bridge, into a canal, that divide^ another large commercial town. Here we faw a brick-kiln, and a great pile of bricks jufl made: they appear to be compofed of a kind of fand, mixed up with the mud of the river. Thc kiln itfelf is built of the materials which it makes, and is in the form of a fugar loaf. In the evening we paffed a large walled city, containing all the circumfiances of the various places of that defcription which have been already enumerated. Several pagodas were illuminated on the occafion, and had a very pretty appearance amid the gloom of night. C HAK { ) C HAP. XVIII. The voyage continued. A fuccejfwn of various objecls* The elegant attentions of a mandarin to the embafjy. Captains of the junks f unified for embezzling the provifions fupplled for the ufe of the Ambaffador and his fuite. Hufbandry of the Chinefe. Preparations for fending thc heavy baggage belonging to the embaffy to Chufan: feveral perfons of the fuite ordered to accompany it. Arrive at Hoang-tcbcvu. Captain Macklntofh, and the other gentlemen, fet off for Chufan. l793- A. TOWN, which we entered this morning, had a very difmal ap- ^Noven pearance, from the colour of the houfes, which are all built of a black brick. They were, however, much more lofty than any we had yet feen in China; fome of them riling to four flories; and there were very few indeed that hadlefs than two. We paffed beneath a very handfomc flone bridge of three arches, that appeared to be of recent erection. It was built in the manner of our bridges in England ; thc center arch occupying a much larger fpan, and rifing to an higher elevation than the lateral ones. On thc parapet, over the former,, were fix round fmall flones, by way of ornament, with Chinefe characters engraven on them. The mandarin's palace, a very lingular ftructure, immediately at-rracts the attention on palling thc bridge near which it Hands. On each fide of the principal gate are two lofty walls, painted of a red colour, to prevent the building from being feen but in a front view of it. The gateway is very much enriched with fculpture, and the ufual accompanyments of Chinefe characters : it is of flone, and D d 2 fupports » ( 2 fupports an apartment. The houfe itfelf is painted of different colours, with a Hone gallery in front, and covered with a roof of the lame material. Thc mandarin, who rcfidcd here, had given to his hofpitality the" molt elegant appearance. He had caufed a temporary ftage, or platform to be erected, from the palace to the fide of the river, in cafe the Ambalfador, and the mandarins, fhould find it convenient to land. The roof of this building was covered with filk of every colour; a great number of lamps were fufpended from it, fancifully adorned with gauze and ribbons, and the floor was covered with a fine, variegated matting. But this was not the whole of the elegant attentions which were exerted by the mandarin on the occafion; as he had caufed a large fcreen, or curtain, of this matting, to be fixed on thc oppofite fide of the water, in order to hide fome ruinous buildings, that would otherwife have difgraceel the gay picture he had contrived, by their deformity. Thc foldiers, under the command of this mandarin, were of a different appearance from any we had feen. They wore red hats, with a, very high and pointed crown; on the fide of which was a brafs plate, that appeared to be fattened with yellow ribbons. Towns, locks, bridges, and pagodas ftill continued to appear in an hafty and aitonifhing fucceffion. In the afternoon, a very large country re fielence was feen at fome diflance, with a very lofty pagoda riling*, as it pcrfpectively appeared, from the center of it. The tower terminated in a cupola, with a fpiral ornament riling from the top, crowned with a ball, from each fide of which a chain hung down till it touched thc upper ftory of the building. Soon after we had paffed this ftructurc, the banks of the river were, for a confiderable diflance, fohigh, as to obfeure all view of the adjacent country. When ( % ) When the fleet came to anchor, the grand mandarin vifited all the junks, in confequence of a complaint that had been made againfl fome November, of the captains of them, for embezzling the provifions which were daily fupplied for the ufc of the embaffy. After a fevere examination into this bufinefs, the mandarin was fo convinced of the truth of the charge, that the perfons accufed were immediately fentenced to be bambooed: they were accordingly ft retched on the ground, and being held down by two foldiers, were flruck, in a very violent manner, acrofs the hips, till the judge gave a fignal for the punifhment to ccafe. It had been a very foggy night, and the weather continued to be Tuefday 75' hazy till ten o'clock, when the fog cleared away, and a fine day fuc-ceeded, which unfolded to the view a charming and fertile country, bounded by hills, whofe fummits were crowned with pagodas. I, this day, caught a tranfient viewr of the practical hufbandry of Che country; as the different operations of digging, manuring, and ploughs ing were going forwards in fields on the river's fide. And though the Chinefe farmers certainly produce as fine crops of grain as any I have ever feen in Europe, this circumflance muff arife from the fole efforts of perfevering labour, as their agricultural utenfils are of a very clumfy form and inconvenient mechanifm. In thc courfe of this day we paffed through a noble arch, and entered a very large town, whofe houfes, which are, many of them, fo lofty as to reach to three flories, are covered with plaiiler, and univer-fally painted black. After a courfe of at leafl two miles through this town, we palled beneath another arch of dimenfions equal to that through which wc had entered it. Another town, of the fame fize and appearance, foon fucceeded ; where, as a part of the houfes, om the fide of the river, projected a fmall tyq$. fmall fpace over if, the men who towed us could be of no fervice, and the junks were dragged forwards very Howdy by boats. The continual intcrfecTdon of canals, with the fucceflion of lakes and rivers, may be fuppofed to have perplexed a more keen obfeiva-tion than mine; and, in the extraordinary fucceffiori of objects, I may not have always been correct as to thc exact character of thc water on which we failed : the rivers may have fometimes aifumed the form of canals, and the canals have fometimes expanded into the appearance of rivers ; but if I fhould, at any time, have miilakcn the one for thc other, either from inaccuracy of obfervation, or the hurry of thc moment when I wrote thofe remarks from whence this volume is formed, fuch an accidental circumflance will not operate as to the more-particular and important information of it. 1 fhall not, however, hefitate to confider it as a very noble river, which brought us beneath the walls of the city of Chaunopaung, that were crowded with its inhabitants to fee us pafs : and as the ft ream foon bore us from it, there was no opportunity to obferve whether it had any circumflance of novelty worthy of record. :Frkiay 8. At noon the junks came to an anchor in the country. When his Excellency fent for feveral perfons of his fuite, to inform them of the regulations which would take place on their arrival at Hoang-tchew, that they might make the neceffary arrangements. They were as follows : All the heavy baggage was intended to be forwarded from Hoang-tchew to Chufan, in order to be put on board the Hindoftan, and conveyed by fea to Canton. It was accordingly ordered, that no perfon fhould retain any thing but what might be neceffary for prcfent :Ufe, as the junks, which would fhortly receive us, were not fufficiently Jarge to carry heavy cargoes. 4 h # It was alfo fettled, that Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Docter Dinwid- 1793. die, and Mr. Alexan Jer, were to accompany Captain Mackintolli to Chufan : four fervants, and two mechanics, to take care of the flores, were alfo to attend upon thofe gentlemen. The reft of the fuite were to accompany his Excellency over land, and I was of that number. Thc country ftill continued to be as we have for fome time defcribed Saturday 9. it. As we proceeded, and the country became more unequal, thc pagodas, which are almoft always placed on heights, feemed to multiply ; and there were few of them that did not reach to feven or eight ftories. As for towns and villages we never ceafed to fee a continual fucceffion of them; and when they did not cover the banks of our river, they appeared at a diflance,, where we might ftippofe them to be reflected by fome other water. At three o'clock in the afternoon, the fleet was ordered to anchor in the open country, near the fhore, when the grand mandarin, Choo-Tadge-ln, came round to each junk, the owners of which he ordered into his prefence, and, after a fhort examination, commanded every one of them to be bambooed: though I Could never learn the offence which produced this example of fummary juftice. This morning the air was extremely cold and piercing. We paffed Sunday I0. feveral plantations of tallow-trees, and arrived at Hoang-tchew in the afternoon, when the whole fleet came to anchor in the principal part of the city. The junks were now faftened together, and orders were iffued to forbid any perfon belonging to the fuite to go on iliore. Indeed, as it appeared, to prevent any attempt of that kind, a body of Chinefe foldiers pitched their tents in the ftreet oppofite the junks, and formed a little camp there, to do duty over the embaffy. In ♦ ?793- In the fame ftreet there were alfo feveral erections like triumphal •"November, arches, where the mandarins, iifed to come every day, to fit in ftate; and, as we were informed, to confuk on the affairs of the city. Monday i.r. No circumftance of any moment happened from this time, till the Thurfday following, which was the day of our departure; and the bufinefs of arranging and dividing the baggage, according to the orders iffued for that purpofe, did not allow us much Icifure for observation, if any thing had occurred worthy of attention : but, thc truth is, nothing did occur, but the never-cealing uproar of the inhabitants of the city, who were continually flocking to the junks to take a view of us. On Wednefday night the attendant mandarin palfed through all the junks, and requefted that the different articles of the baggage fhould have the refpective names of Chufan, or Canton, written upon them, according to their refpective deftination ; which was no fooner completed, than thofe configned to the former place were fent off by coolies to the depot appointed to receive them. The Ambaffador ordered ten dollars to be given to the owners of each junk, for their refpective crews. Tkurf<3ayi4. Lieutenant-Colonel Benfon, Doctor Dinwiddie, Mr. Alexander, with the fervants and mechanics already mentioned, fet off this morning, to proceed with Captain Mackintofh, to join the Hindoftan at Chufan. CHAP. ( ) CHAP. XIX. The Ambaflador, with his fuite, proceed through the city of Hoang-tchew to the Green River, where they embark. Formalities on the occafion. Circumfiances of the voyage. Defcription of the country. Refpect paid to the Ambaffador. Leave the junks, and proceed by land. Mode of conveyance. Return to the junks. The voyage continued. THE Ambaffador, after having received the farewell vifit of the man- v_ry9*' , darin of Hoang-tchew, fet off, with his whole retinue, for the Green ^ov^Jbcr' river, where they were to embark in junks of a leffer burthen. His Excellency was carried in a palanquin, and the reft of the fuite in a kind of fedan chair. The guards, commanded by Lieutenants Parifh and Crewe, preceded the cavalcade. On palTing through the city gates, the embalfy was faluted with three guns. The diftance between the two rivers could not be lefs than feven miles, the whole of which was covered by the city and fuburbs of Hoang-tchew. The ftreets were lined, on either fide, with foldiers, or it would have been impoflible to have paffed, from the prodigious crowds of people, whom curiofity had collected on the occafion. The ftreets of this city are very narrow, but well paved; and the houfes, which are twg and three ilories high, being uniformly built of brick, have a very neat appearance. The warehouses of thc merchants exceed any I ever faw, both for fplendor and magnitude; while the fhops are fitted up, both within and without, in a ftyle of ihe greateft elegance. Their goods, whether inclofcd in packages, or difplayed to view, were difpofed in the moft pleafing and attractive E e mode I 210 ) 1793. mode of arrangement. Hoang-tchew is a very magnificent, populous, November. and opulent city, maintaining by its commerce the immenfe number of its inhabitants j and is thc capital of a province to which it gives a name. At noon his Excellency arrived at the Green river, on whofe banks a very large body of troops, all armed with helmets, and accompanied with a large corps of artillery, were drawn up in regular order: the whole con filling, as it appeared, of feveral thoufand men; the grandeur of whofe appearance was enlivened by a great number of gaudy flandards and enfigns. The artillery troops were dreffed in blue, and had figures of the ordnance embroidered on their cloaths, by way of diflinction. They confifled of feveral companies, and were flationed in the center, and on the flanks of the lines. Their cannon were by much thc largefl we had feen in China : and as the Britiih cavalcade paffed through two very elegant triumphal arches, it was faluted by a difcharge of artillery. The river being very mallow towards the fhore, the junks lay at the diflance of fifty yards from it, and were ranged in a line dole to each other. A platform was erected from the triumphal arch to the junk appointed to receive the Ambalfador, which confifled of a great number of carts faflened together, with fplit bamboos laid acrofs them. The multitudes of people affembled to fee the embarkation were fo great, that I fhould hazard credibility were I to exprefs my opinion of them. Befides the crowds which were on foot, great numbers were mounted on buffaloes, or drawn in carts by the fame animals, who were tame and docile as our oxen. Some of them had three or four perfons on their backs at the fame time, whom they bore with great cafe, and were fubmilftve to their riders. The buffalo is very much ufed in this country in every kind of draught labour, and particularly in the occupations of hufbandry. On ( w ) On entering thefe junks, they were found, though of fmall dimen- *79V lions, to be fitted up with great neatnefs and peculiar accommodation. November. At five o'clock in the afternoon the whole fleet was unmoored, and proceeded on its voyage, I went on board the ffore junk, where I faw the mandarin, Van- Friday if. Tadge-In, examining one of the people belonging to it, concerning fome mifdemeanour he had committed. The poor culprit was ordered to be punifhed with a baflinado, and he accordingly received two dozen flrokes from a bamboo acrofs the thighs. The greater part of this day's voyage was between ranges of mountainous country, offering a great variety of romantic and picf urefquc fcenes. The intervening vallies were covered with the tallow and mulberry trees; from the former of which the Chinefe make their cuidlcs, which are of a fuperior quality. This tree is here called the latchoo, and is remarkable for the beauty of its appearance; it is the fize of an apple tree, having fcarlet leaves edged with yellow, and blofforns of a pale purple. The mulberry tree is cultivated in China with great care, for the produce of filk, which is a principal article of Chinefe commerce. We this day paffed feveral fmall villages, and a walled city, named Syountong : it is fituated about three quarters ol a mile from the river, and near a large foreft that fhades the country about it. This part of the river, though very broad, is fcldom more than two or three feet in depth, and in no place more than four. The water has a green hue, and the bottom gravel. The beach, howevert is a mixture of fand and flones. In the evening of this day wc were very much delighted with a view of the city of Zauguoa in a flate of magnificent illumination. The troops were alfo drawn up on the banks, as we perceived by their E e 2 lanterns j v_J.^!l-j lanterns; and from the number of them, as well as the brilliant ap-November. pearance Gf the place, there was every reafon to confider it as in the firfl rank of Chinefe cities. The Ambalfador was faluted here as he had been by a great number of forts in the courfe of the day. Saturday 16. The weather was exceeding cold, accompanied with rain. ♦V': -d ■ #t * We paffed feveral flone pagodas of a greater height than any we had yet feen, fome of them reaching to nine flories. The environs of the river flill continued to be mountainous and full of picturefque beauty, heightened by the fancy and lingular genius of the inhabitants, both as to cultivation and ornament. Large plantations of the tallow and mulberry tree occafionally appear, to vary and enliven the f ucceffion of delightful views which unfolded themfelves as thc ffream bore us along. The falutes of artillery were now become lb frequent, that they were tirefome; as the banks of the river are, in a great meafure, lined with forts, which expended their gun-powder in doing honour to the embaffy. It may, indeed, be faid, with a flrict regard to truth, that in our long journey through this kingdom, we had never proceeded a fingle mile without receiving the falute of fome fort or military cantonment : nor were thefe military honours altogether confined to the iTdes of the river; for this evening the fleet was an object of refpect from a body of troops at a confiderable diflance, as we could judge from their illumination; which had a very pleafing effect. Sunday 17. About three o'clock in the morning I was awakened by a very heavy difcharge of artillery ; and inilantly quitting my bed, I perceived, by the number of lanterns, that a very large body of men were drawn up on the fhore : but this was not all; for a lighted torch was fixed to the carriage of every gun, and the bearer of each fland of colours was alfo diflinguifhed by a flambeau, which gave new brilliance and effect to the military illumination. In an early part of the afternoon the fleet came to an anchor oppofite t , to a fmall, but very pretty town, on the banks of the river ; and in a November, fhort time the conducting mandarin viflted thc junks, to convey to thc whole of the ambaffador's train, according to their rank, prefents of perfumes, fans, Imperial tea, and nankeen. We now feemed to have quitted the mountainous country for an Monday 18, extenfive plain, covered with plantations of the tallow and mulberry tree, intermixed with villages, and the ornamented habitations of mandarins; fome of which were faced with a lead-coloured plaifter, bordered with white;—an arrangement of colours not uncommon in our own country, whether applied to the furniture of houfes, or the drefs of ladies. The provifions which we now received, though" by no means deficient in quantity, were far inferior, indeed, in quality to thofe we received in the former part of our journey ; which we were made to underfland arofe from the nature of the country, rather than, from any inattention to the comfort and convenience of the embalfy. Indeed, there could be no reafon to fuppofe that the Emperor had not even been anxious to render our departure from his kingdom as agreeable as refpect and exterior honour could make it. In fhort, from Tartary to Canton, it was a chain of falutes, which were fo frequent, as I have before ob ferved, that it might be compared almoft to a train of wild-fire laid from one end of the empire to the other. I faw a groupe of water-mills, confifting of ten or twelve of them,, all turned by a fmall cut from thc river, which made a circuit round, a meadow where they were erected :. they bore an exact refemblancc to our flour-mills in England, and appeared to be worked on the fame principle : they were now, however, become very common objects. Thofe, which I have now mentioned, were, as I under-ftood, employed in thrething rice. Among the various circumfiances common, ( 214 ) common to thc country, we this day faw a pagoda that rofe to the height of eleven flories. The fleet anchored at night before the gates of the city of Too-atchou. Tuefday 19. The country in fome degree refumed its former appearance; the plains on each fide being backed by a long range of mountains riling in the horizon. The fleet anchored this morning before a very confiderable village, to wait for the junks of Lord Macartney and Sir George Staunton, which had fallen confiderably aflern. Wcduef- Soon after dinner the whole fleet was moored oppofite to a large (Ayzo' town, a fpot which offered fuch a difplay of beautiful and contrafled objects, as I never remember to have feen. The river was, of courfe, the central object of the picture: on one fide of it was a town with all its peculiar circumfiances ; and before it a military encampment with all its gay and gaudy decorations. On the other fide was a range of lofty, perpendicular mountains. The reft of this day was paffed in making preparations for pro-acceding a fhort way. by land; in order to embark in other junks. Tiuufdayii. At an early hour the Ambaflador and his whole train difembarked, and proceeded in palanquins, fedans, and bamboo chairs, or on horfe-back, as they fevcrally chofe : for, in all our expeditions by land, thc mandarin Van-Tadge-In always conful ted the fuite as to the mode of travelling which they preferred, and never failed in accommodating them according to their refpective inclinations. The cavalcade proceeded but a fhort way, before we entered a walled city of confiderable extent, and with very large fuburbs, called 1 Chan- November. ( «u ) Chanfoiyeng. It is fituatcd in a valley formed by two large bills, t !^3- t and about a quarter of a mile from the river. On the fummit of one November, of thefe eminences is a pagoda of a very ancient conftruction, and flat at the top, inflead of being crowned with a turret, or riling to a point, like thofe which every moment prefented themfelves to our view. On palling through the gates of this city, both as he entered and paffed out of it, the Ambaffidor was honoured, as ufual, with a dif-charge of artillery. The flreets were very narrow and lined with fhops, fitted up with that interior arrangement and difplay of commodities, as well as exterior decoration, which has diflinguifhed fo many of the towns which we had vifited. After pafling another walled city, and feven villages, which were alfo furrounded with walls, we arrived at one o'clock at the city of Sooeping, where dinner was already prepared. The remainder of our journey was along a good road, through a fertile country varied by hills ; till, after pafling, and furprifing by our appearance, a fuc-ceifion of villages, wc arrived at five o'clock at the city of Yoofaun, and were introduced to the houfe of a mandarin, oppofite to the wharf where the junks lay at anchor, in which we were to continue our voyage. The baggage of the embafly had arrived before us, and was diflributed in the feveral courts of the building. After being refrefhed with tea, every one was bufy in feeing their baggage properly flowed on board their refpective junks; and, in the evening,, the Ambaffador and his whole retinue were fafely embarked, and nut only ready, but anxious, to proceed on their voyage The rain was without remiffton through the whole of this day,, fo Friday as., that thc junks were prevented from quitting their fituation ; a circumflance that did not fail to exercife the patience of the paflengers of every rank, who had not yet learned to prefer the accommodations, however well contrived, on board a junk moored to a wharf, to the comforts of an houfe on the fhore. e h a p CHAP. XX. The voyage continued. Curious circumjlances of the banks of the river. The embaffy leaves the junks for veffels of a larger fize. Circumfiances of the voyage. Appearance of the country. Prefents from the mandarin of Tyaung-jhi-fenna. Brief account of tombs and fepulchrcs. Pafs the town of Saunt y Tawn9 and a clufier of three cities. Arrive at Chinga-foo. i 1?v93' j THE flefet had failed in the night, and anchored early in the morn-November. m„ Defare a large city called Mammcnoa. Sunday 34. © o j The river now flowed between a range of huge unconnected mattes of flone, which, as they did not appear to be rooted in the earth, cannot be called rocks or crags; but had all the appearance of having been disjointed and thrown about by fome ftrange convulsion of nature. In thc interilices between them there were veins of earth of different appearances, but not in regular flrata : fome of thefe were of a deep brown or black colour, others were yellow; and they were occasionally intermixed with fand and gravel. In fome parts I obferved people euiting the ilone into the lhape of bricks, and in others, there were large heaps of them, which were of a deep red. Several of thefe huge flones had been excavated with great labour, and formed a fort of dwelling, many of whofe inhabitants came forth to fee our fleet* pafs along before them. Some of the intervals between thefe Hones wcie of fullicient extent to admit of gardens with their buildings and pagodas, which produced very picturefque, romantic, and de-lijghtful pictures. When the country, which is in the higheit flate of cultivation, was let in through the open fpaces between thefe If ones, it produced a curious and pleafing perfpective. This very Angular anil ( 2J7 ) and ftupendous icenery continued, for a length of feveral miles, with 1793-little change, but what arofe from the leffer or greater magnitude of the November, objects, and the occalional decorations of art in building and ornamented gardens. In the afternoon thc fleet anchored before the city of Hoa-quoo, where we were agreeably furprifed to receive orders for the removal of the embalfy into larger junks, in which we fhould find a very pleafing change in our accommodations and comforts. Thefe junks were hauled up along-fide thofe which we then occupied; and, in a very fhort time, the whole of the baggage was fhifted into them. Here the grand mandarin of Hoa-quoo fent to each junk, except that which contained the foldiers, two cafes of various fruits, and as many boxes of fweet cakes and confectionary. The rain which had continued almoft without ceafing for the lafl two Monday 15. days, abated, and the weather became moderate. The city of Quiol-fhee-fheng, where the fleet anchored for fome time, has nothing remarkable but its wall, which is built of the red bricks that I mentioned yelterday. The appearance of thc country was as beautiful as cultivation could make it; with a few rocks of a red flone occafionally breaking the level of it. Near to fome of them there appeared to be quarries where the people where hewing the large flones into fmaller pieces, of the ^ fime fize and figure of thofe already defcribed. The river had this day a more bufy appearance than it had yet *af-fumed, from the great number of rice mills which were at work on this part of it. The fog of this morning fo far obfeured the country, as to render Tuefday 26, thc diftant parts altogether imperceptible. At noon, however, the F f atmofphcre ( «8 ) ,_^93' atmofphere became clear, and tbe eye ranged over a flat, but as ufual, November, fertile range of country, which, as far as I could diftinguifh, abounded in fields of rice: but the broaden: and moft uninterrupted level never prefented a dull or uninterefting profpect in any part of China through which we had paffed; as the feats of the mandarins and their gardens, with the farm-houfes embofomcd in the trees, and thc long line of thickets that frequently form the enclofures of the fields, compofe a picture which, though it may not be altogether fuited to the canvas, is very pleafing to the eye in its natural appearance. The provifions with which the junks had been for fome time fup-plied, were of fo bad a quality that we frequently gave them to the poor people who conducted the veffels. This day, however, brought us the hope of better fare, by an improvement in the quality of the various articles which were now fent on board: but our table funk again, on the fucceeding day, to that ftate of mediocrity to which we had been habituated fince our departure from Houang-tchew.. We- »795« o'clock that we paffed thc only inhabited place of this day's voyage ; December, and which might now have efcaped our notice, if the loldiers of the cantonment had not exhibited their paper lanterns, and difcharged a few volhes of refpect towards us. Sunday 8. The weather has, for fome time, been temperate and pleafant: the country alio has gradually loft its fertile appearance, and is now become mountainous and barren : fome of the mountains, indeed, are covered with wood, but the furface of the earth has here loft all that richnefs which had fo long cloathed it. Thc population of the country may be fuppofed to have fuffercd a proportionate diminution; but the villages, though they are more thinly fcatlcred than they have hitherto been, become more picturefquc objects both from their form and fituation. The high grounds near the river, in many places, lofe their abrupt and rugged appearance beneath the verdure of dwarf-trees of various kinds, among which the camphire tree is faid to predominate. But though the profpect: was now become a mere fucceflion of rude mountain and barren valley, it was fometimes enlivened by a pagoda in the diflance, while the village Hill continued to animate the banks, of the river. Wc now obferved feveral fepulchres or funeral monuments that had been erected in various parts of the mountains, with excavations in the Tocks beneath them to receive the dead. That an amiable fuperflition might willi to conlign the remains of the parent or the child, the friend or thc relation, to fuch a fepulchral retreat, elevated as it were above the world, and, as it might be thought by the Pagan mythology, nearer to that heaven, where their fpirits were deltined to wing, or had already taken flight, is not inconfiftent with the belt feelings of nature and religion. But fome of thefe places facred to the dead appeared to US» ' ( HS ) us, at lead:, to be in fuch iltuations, as to render the attempt to gain accefs to them, a circumflance of no fmall hazard to the living. December About fun-fet we paffed a large town called Syn-cham-au, which is-fituatcd on a fmall plain between the river and fome high mountains covered with wood ; nor is this romantic appearance leffened by a large pyramidical rock, with a very lofty pagoda on the top of it. Two confiderable towns and feveral villages, with their junks, Monday^ were thc principal objects of this day's voyage; till we arrived in the evening at the city of Naung-aum-foo. As tbe embalfy was to make a journey of one day over land from this place, preparations were made accordingly under the ufual directions of the attendant mandarin. The Ambaffador ordered four dollars to be given to the crews of thc Tuefday 10 refpectivc junks; and, after an hafty breakfaft, the fuite followed the baggage, which was already fent on fhore. Thc landing-place was adorned with a grand triumphal arch, decorated with filk and ftreamers of various colours. Here I was p relented with a ticket, the meaning of which I did not comprehend. I then proceeded along a kind of platform, covered with fine matting; its roof and railing were ornamented with ribbons and filk, in the fame manner as thc triumphal arch, and a range of lamps were fufpended in a very elegant form on each fide of it. This platform led to a circular court, furrounded by a fcrccn of filk, which contained, as well as 1 could calculate from thc view of them, between two and three hundred horfes, attended by their owners, and from which every perfon in- the Ambaflador* s retinue wras at liberty to chufe a beaft for the journey of the day; as from the badnefs of the roads, and the length of the way, it was ordered that rhe whole fuite, except the Ambaffador, Sir George Staunton, an I H h 2 • Mr. ( *3« ) Mr. Plumb, Ihould proceed on horilback. 1 accordingly chafe an bode, lor which 1 was obliged to deliver the ticket already mentioned. It was a very wild and mettlefome deed, which, on my firfl mounting him, was fo reflivc and unmanageable, that I wiihed to make an exchange; but I had delivered my ticket, and was obliged to abide by my choice, fuch as it was.. When all thc arrangements were fettled, the horfes felceted, and thc whole fuite transformed into a body of cavalry, his Excellency, with Sir George Staunton, and Mr. Plumb, came from the junk to their palanquins, and the cavalcade commenced, attended by a confiderable body of Chinefe foldiers. Naung-aum-foo is a walled city of confiderable extent, built on a r'.ling ground above the river, and is commanded,'both behind, and on the oppofite fide of the wTater, by lofty hills; on one of which is feen a' folitary pagoda. Its fuburbs are large, and, from the number of fmall, junks, fuited to the ihallownefs of the flream that wafhes its banks, ir may be efteemed a place of fome commercial character. In about half an hour we had got clear of the city, when every exterior object was loft in attending to the peculiarities of our own appearance. Such a troop of equeftrians arc not often feen in China, or any other part of the world. The gentlemen of the fuite, with the mechanics, foldiers, and fervants, were all on horfeback; many of whom were but indifferent riders, and fome of them now found themfelves obliged to ride for the firfl time. The horfes themfelves, on letting ottt, were alfo very frolickfomc and ungovernable; fo that the ridicule which attached itfelf to our general appearance, and thc diver-iion which fuccefhvely occurred from the cries of alarm, the awkward* nefs of attitude, and the various other circumfiances, which the reader, without having been in China, may very readily conceive, ferved to amufe ( 237 ) am ufe the tedioumcfs of travelling through a mountainous and unproductive country. At noon we came to the foot of a mountain, which was fo deep as to make it neceflary for us to difmount, and lead our horfes over it, being an afcent of two miles, which required an hour to mafter it. We palled feveral Villages, and dined at the town of Lee-cou-aut where a confiderable body of foldiers, in armour, lined the road ' as wTe paffed; and both on entering, as well as quitting the lines, the Ambaflador was faluted with the difcharge of three pieces of artillery. This military parade, with the variety of colours, which never failed to accompany thc leaft appearance of foldiery, had a very pretty effect.- The women', in this p*art of our journey, were either educated with lefs referve, or allowed a greater fhare of liberty, than in the country through which we had lately paffed, as we frequently faw them indulging their cunofity in obferving fuch a new and extraordinary fight as we muft exhibit. I have already mentioned that we had, for fome time, exchanged a fertile for an unprofitable foilj and all the fplendor of cultivation, for die barren mountain. The eye was, however, fometimes relieved by large patches of camphire, and other medicinal, trees; at leafl, as I was informed by thofe who might be fuppofed to be able to inftruct me. The fun had fet, when we arrived at thc gates of the city of Naung-chin-oa. It ftands in a plain, furrounded on three fides by mountains; on the fourth and to the fouth, flows the river on which wc were to continue our voyage. It is a place of fome extent and confiderable commerce. The ftreets, like thofe of 'almoft all the towns we have feen in China, arc very narrow, but they have the advantage of being well paved, and well kept in the material article of cleanlinefs. • The houfes are chiefly of wood, and their general height is two flories. Though ( ^ ) *793- Though elegance, cither interior or exterior, is not the peculiar ■cha-December, racter of this place, fome of the ihops were gilt and varnifhed in a manner that might bring them within that denomination. At every door in the flreets, after fun-fet, a large paper lamp is hung up, and forms a very pretty illumination. Thefe lamps difplay thc name of the perfon who lives in the houfe, his trade, and the articles in which he traffics. The palaces of the mandarins are alio ornamented with lamps, according to thc dimcnlions of the building, or therank of their inhabitants. Thc flreets were lined with foldiers to reprefs the curiofity of the people, which would, otherwife, have impeded our paffage ; and it was near feven o'clock when we arrived at the palace of the grand mandarin of the city. It is a very noble refidence, compofed of vari* ous courts, and feveral ranges of apartments.. In fpacious open galleries, on each fide of the firfl court, tables were plentifully fpread with tea, meats, of various kinds, and fruits, for the refrefhment of the inferior orders of the fuite ; while other galleries, that opened on the interior courts, were magnificently illuminated, and prepared for the higher department of it. In fhort, throughout the palace, there was fuch a profulion of lamps and other lights, as, in my unexaggerated opinion, would ferve the palace of an European fovereign for a month. But without this obfervation, which, 1 believe to be founded in fact, it mult have already appeared, in the courfe of this Narrative, that illumination is a very principal feature of Chinefe magnificence. The Ambaffador and Sir George Staunton preferred going to the junks inflead of pafling a night in the palace ; and, accordingly, after having taken the refrefhment prepared on their arrival, they repaired to them. The reft of the embafly remained on fhore, and apartments were affigned them for their repofe. The haggage which was brought all the way from Naung-aum-foo jun mens lhouldcrs, arrived by degrees; but the whole of it had not reached reached its detonation till nine o'clock; when all the mandarin's principal fervants affifted in depofiting it in a long gallery, where it was arranged with the utmofl regularity; each package having a ticket parted on it, correfponding with the junk to which it was to be removed on the following day. CHAP, CHAP. XXIIL The fuite embarks on board the junks; the voyage renewed; circumfances of it. A curious -pagoda. Defcription of fepulchres. Vafl rafts of timber. Embark in larger junks. Pafs fome curious mountains; a dejcription oj them. Extraordinary illumination. *793« ■December?' At an early hour of the morning the baggage was put on board the TayTf" junks, with a regularity, as well as difpatch, that cannot well be defcribed. There was a fufficient depth of water in this river to bring thc junks clofc to the quay.; fo that the coolies, of which there were a great number, acting under the orders of the mandarin and his fervants, and guarded by foldiers, foon transferred every article that belonged to the embalfy on board the veffels to which it was fpecifically affigned. The junks, to which we were now removed, were of lefs dimenflons than thofe we had left; in conformity to die navigable flate of the river, which only admitted veffels of fmall burthen. About eleven o'clock the fuite were all on board, and the whole fleet ready for failing. We accordingly renewed our voyage, and began it by pafling under a wooden bridge of feven arches, or rather, if accuracy of expreflion mould be confidered as indifpcnfablc, of feven intervals. Thefe intervals arc formed by flrong flone pillars, built in the water, and overlaid with planks, guarded by a double railing. This ftrucfure ilrctchcs acrofs the river, to form a communication between thofe parts of thc fuburbs of Naung-chin-oa, which are divided by it. Forts ganifoned with troops, and well fupplicd with artillery, guarded either end of it; nor was the fleet unnoticed by 2 • them - them ; as in pafling the bridge it was honoured by the parade of the (_Wfr ^ one, and the difchargc of the other. The city itfelf is alfo well de- December, fended by walls, which arc, at leaft, thirty feet in height, towards the river, with ramparts that take the whole circuit of the place, and fquare towers which are not confined to the gates, but appear to rife above the walls in other advantageous Situations. At a fmall diftance from the bridge the river divides into two branches, that take almoft oppofite directions: on that whofe ftream bore us along, we faw a large quantity of fmall timber in rafts. In the afternoon we paffed a pagoda, fituatcd on a bank of the river, which was of a more lingular appearance than any of the great number of that kind of edifice which we had feen in our travels through the country. It confifled of five flories, which terminated in a flat roof, with trees growing on it. The body of the building, from many parts of which alfo flirubs appeared to fprout forth, was covered with a white plaifter, and decorated with red paint in its angles and inter-flices. The cuuntry ftill remained barren and mountainous; nor was its rude and dreary afpect enlivened by any appearance of cultivation. A confiderable town called Chang-fang, was the only place we paffed in the fhort voyage of this day. The natural face of the country was ftill dreary; and its artificial Thurfday nt circumfiances did not enliven it by their character. The mountains, as we paffed by them, exhibited a great number of thofe fepulchres of which fome defcription has been already given. Thefe, as the former, were in fituations not eafily acceflible, and varied in their appearance, as may be fuppofed, according to thc wealth or dignity of the perfon whofe remains they already contained, or were, hereafter, deftined to inclofe. ii When *793« When we mentioned thefe folemn repofitories in a for:/. ;e, ^ea^ber"' tnc thought fuggefted itfelf, that fuperftition might carry the dead to thofe high places, on the fame principle that idolatry has raifed its altars there ; but, when it is confidered that the dreary, uncultivated mountain is better fuited to the character of the fepulchre ; and that there is, perhaps, fomcthing confolatory in the idea of that fecurity which belongs to thefe awful, and almoft inacceftiblc folitudcs; we may probably approach nearer to the real motives of configning the dead to thefe elevated tombs. The general conftruction of them appears to be the fame: it con-fills of an excavation in the mountain, chifelled out in the form of a large niche, which is then paved, and concealed by a wall with an ornamented door. Some of thefe places are covered with domes; from others pyramidical forms fpring up, and the facades of them were, as far as I could diftinguilh, painted of a lead colour, with a white border. Thefe receptacles of the dead were fucceeded by few habitations of the living that have any claim to particular notice or obfervation, till we came to the large and populous village of Ty-ang-koa. Here we faw a vaft length of timber in rafts floating down the river, with feveral bamboo huts erected on it, and the families belonging to them. Great numbers of people were alfo employed in bringing timber to the water fide, either on their moulders, or in waggons i while others were occupied in forming rafts. The country ftill retains its barren afpect, though a pagoda was. occafionally feen to grace the fummits of the mountains. Friday 13. We this day palfed a confiderable town called Tya-waung, part of which was in ruins ; and, a little further down the river, we came to the city of Shaw-choo ; thc fuburbs of which extend to the water jjde, and where the houfes are built in fuch a manner as to be in con-. 4 tinua.1 ( 243 ) tinual danger of falling on the heads of their inhabitants, and in- -'793- 3 volving them in one common deftruction. A wooden frame work Dcccmbc-reifing fometimes upon a foundation of clay or flone, with a few ilender uprights, are the only fupports of thofe habitations that ranged along the ihore; where frequent ruins manifeflcd the folly as well as the frailty of fuch architecture. The fleet came to an anchor at the extremity of thc city, before thc palace of the grand mandarin, which was finely decorated with triumphal arches : a platform was alfo erected from the banks of the river to the houfe, to accommodate the Ambaffador, if his Excellency had found it convenient to go on fhore. The foldiers belonging to the mandarin were alfo drawn up in due form, and gave thc ufual falutc. At this place large junks were prepared to receive the embaffy; and, in a very fhort time, the whole fuite and the baggage was removed on board them. Our accommodations were accordingly increafed in proportion to the fuperior dimenfions of the veifels that now contained us. In the evening the grand mandarin fent the fuite a very handfome prcfent of China, together with a large fupply of provifions ; we alfo received, at a later hour of the evening, a large parcel of tobacco, fome ducks cured in the manner of hams, of a very delicate flavour, together with a confiderable quantity of dried fifh. The voyage was this day agreeably varied by an occafional, though not very frequent patch of cultivated ground, which was now become, in fhape, fize, or fituation, a cheering object. The weather was moderate and pleafant; and, though there ap- Saturday i peared a very fmall proportion of cultivated land, the mountains were fometimes clothed with wood. The village of Shoong-koang, fituated I i % on T793- on a plain, with the river before, and an amphitheatre of mountains December, behind, it, drew our attention, as a very pleafing object:, and furprifed us with the number of inhabitants which it poured forth, to fee the Grangers pafs. I have already mentioned that fmall portions of cultivated ground now began, though very rarely, to make their appearance : this cir-cumltance, however, had no influence on our fupplics; as the pro-vilion-boats of to-day brought us thc fame indifferent eatables which we had, for fome time, been accuilomcd to receive. In the evening, the hills gradually approached the river, till, at length, they clofed upon it, and formed a rude and lofty barrier, which, at once, confined and obfeured its channel. This fcencry continued for a confiderable diflance, as it were, on purpofe to lead thc eye to a mountain of fuch ftupendous magnitude, as the defcription which I am about to give, will not be able to convey, I fear, to the mind of my readers. It was fo late as feven o'clock at night before we arrived at thc commencement of it; but the moon fhone in all her fplendour, and enabled thc eye to trace every part of this enormous-object with lefs diflinctnefs, perhaps, as to minute parts, but with better effect as to its magnificent outline. This mountain rifes from the river to the perpendicular height of at leal! three hundred yards. The face it prefents towards the water is divided between bare rock and fliaggy foliage : the upper part appeared, in fome places, to project over the river, and offer a moft tremendous fliape to the voyagers who fail beneath it: when, therefore, to fuch an elevation of folid rocky mountain, with its rugged bafe, and craggy fummits, is added the extent of near two miles of lengthening precipice, fome faint notion may be entertained of this ftupendous object. Its Its termination is equally abrupt with its beginning; and all its 'W^ parts fupport the favagc grandeur of the whole. On the extreme December, point, as we paffed down the river, a pyramidical rock appeared to fpring up to a confiderable height above the edge of thc precipice, and miifhcd in a peak. This immenfe fhape is feparated by an intervening plain, that extends to the foot of diftant mountains, from another enormous rock; which, though of different form, and lefs extent, poffeffes thc fame awful and majeflic character. It rifes with a fteep but gradual afcent from the river to a certain height; when it fhoots up, as it were, in a bold, unvarying, perpendicular elevation, to the clouds, affording another vafl example of the fublime in nature. As a range of hills may be faid to conduct us along the river to thefe ftupendous objects, a fuccellive boundary of the fame kind continued during a courfe of feveral miles after we had left them. But it was the peculiar office of this extraordinary night to awraken our altonifhment by tbc grand exertions of art, as well as by the enormous works of nature ; for, at the concluflon of this chain of hills, that had fo long excluded any view into thc country, wc \\rcrc furprized with a line of light that extended for feveral miles over mountains and vallics, at fome diftance from the river, and formed one unin-tempted, blazing outline, as they rofe or funk in the horizon. In fome parts of this brilliant, undulating line, it was varied or thickened, as it appeared, by large bands or groups of torches ; and„ on thc moft confpicuous heights immenfe bonfires threw their flames towards the clouds. Nor was this all, for the lights did not only give the outline of the mountain, but fometimes ferpentifed up it,, and connected, by a fpiral ftream of light, a large fire at thc bottom, with that which reddened thc fummit. The 1793-^ The number of lanterns, lamps, or torches employed on this occa-December. fion, mull: have been beyond all calculation, as the two extremities of the illuminated fpace, taken in a ftrait line, and without eflimating the finkings of the vallies, or the inequality of the mountain tops, could not exclude a Iefs diflance from each other than three miles. Whether thefe lights were held by an army of foldiers, and a very large one would have been neceffary on the occafion, or were fixed ira the ground, I could not learn; but it was certainly the mofl magnificent illumination ever feen by the European traveller, and the mofl fplendid compliment ever paid to the public dignity of an European Ambaffador. Not only a vafl range of country, but the courfe of the river, for feveral miles, received the light of day from this artificial blaze. Succcffive difcharges of artillery were, at regular diflances, ad* (fed to the honour of this amazing and mofl fuperb fpectacle. C H A P. CHAP. XXIV. The voyage continued. Defcription of a curious mountain. Various circumfances of the river. Arrive at the city of Tuyng-yan-yean. Pafs numerous villages, towns, &c. Anchor before the city ofTfyn-tian. Arrive at Canton. Formalities on the occafion, &c. At feven o'clock this morning the whole fleet came to an anchor beneath a mountain, which is confidered by thc Chinefe, in refpect to its elevation, figure, and extent, as one of thc natural wonders of their country. It is called Koan-yeng-naum. The grand mandarin, who had the care of conducting thc embaffy, with that attention which diftinguiftied every part of his official duty, had ordered the fleet to flop in this place, in order to give the Ambaffador, and his retinue, an opportunity of indulging their euriofity, by taking a view of this extraordinary mountain. It rifes perpendicularly from thc water to an amazing height, and terminates in a peak. Vafl pieces of the rock project from the face of it in fuch a manner, as to have a mofl tremendous and threatening afpect; nor is it cafy to perfuade onefelf, on looking up, that they will not inflantly fall and fill up thc channel of the river beneath them. Several large caverns are among the curious circumfiances of this mountain. The principal of them is about forty feet above the river* and the paffage to it confiils of a flight of fifty fleps cut out of the jock, and guarded by a rail, which are over-fhadowed by a. projection of the mountain. A door, prettily ornamented with painting, opens into a handfomc room of about forty feet in circumference, and nine feet r793- December. Sunday 15. ( M* ) feet in height, which contains-a facred image, to whom thc Chinefe, on their entrance, pay their adorations. There is alfo a window, chi felled through the If one, with a balcony before it, from whence there is a delightful profpect of the river. From this chamber we afcended, by an artificial ftaircafe, to two other apartments of thc fame fize with the former, and fitted up in a manner fuited to the character of the place. Thefe rooms were excavated at thc expenfe of thc mandarin to whom the mountain belongs, and mult have been a work of incredible labour. At thc foot »of the fteps, an arch had been erected, with the ufual decoration of filk and ribbons, of various colours. Though the country ftill continued to be rude and uncultivated, it was, occafionally, varied by large woods, that hung down the ftecps, or thickened in the vallies. The ranges of mountains alfo, that branch off from Koan-yeng-naum, take fuch different directions, as to form a variety of grand, and even fublimc, pictures of nature. At noon thc fleet anchored, for a fhort time, before the city of Shizing-ta-heng; fituatcd on the upper part of an inclined plain, that advances with a fcarce perceptible afcent from a large fandy beach of the river, to the foot of thc mountains that rife behind it. This plain is alfo adorned with the moft beautiful trees, fo that the view may be fuppofed to confift of a river in the fore-part of it, a fine plain, covered with plantations, ftretching away from the banks, and a large city beyond it, backed by a bold, unequal range of mountains. When to thefe circumfiances are added, the woods on the oppofite fide of the river, and the magnificent pagoda which rifes before them; the beauty of the landfcape may be conceived without any very uncommon ftretch of the imagination. The river, in a very winding courfe, now afforded but little variety. The fame lofty barriers continued to confine its courfe; and where a cafual ( *49 ) carnal opening fuffered the eye to advance beyond them, it looked to- 1793-wards nothing more than fimilar obje&s, with no other circumfiances December, of variation but fuch as might be ftuppofed to arife from the peculiarities of light and fhadow, and the diminution of diflance. We not only obferved, but alfo heard the labours, of large bodies of people, who were employed in blowing up certain parts of the rocks, to obtain that flone with which the Chinefe form their pavements, whether for their houfes, courts, or public ways. Beneath one of thefe mountains was a large village, which had a very mean appearance; and, as I afterwards learned, was entirely inhabited by the people employed in blowing up rocks, and working quarries, that were in the neighbourhood of it. Several fpires of fmoke, afcending from the mountains, attracted our attention; when, on making inquiry concerning thc fires that occafioned them, we found that it was a procefs preparatory to agriculture ; by burning the heath on certain parts of thefe elevated fitu-ations, in order to commence the experiment of cultivation. The evening of this day was alfo cheered by an illumination of the diftant hills; and though it did not, in any degree, equal, either in extent or fplendor, that which had fo lately excited our aftonifhment, it had a very fmgular effect, and exhibited a very pleafing appearance. Rugged and fteep rocks, fome of which were covered with Monday 1$ wood, ftill continued to inclofe, on either fide, the channel of the river. Among them there rofe a large mountain, fhaded by an hanging foreft, which was not only a very grand object in itfelf, but was alfo accompanied with circumfiances that enlivened and adorned it. At the foot of it a road had been cut out of the folid rock, and to communicate with it a large arch of flone ftretches acrofs a deep chafm. In the center of the wood, there is the palace of a mandarin, furrounded K k with with detached offices, and at fome fmall diflance a temple, which belongs to it, and contains the image which is the uftial object of religious worfhip. There are feveral burying places in different parts of the wood, which are the maufolcums of the mandarin's family to whom the palace belongs. It is called Tre-liod-zau. This magnificent object, which, on a particular turn of the river* prefented itfelf in charming perfpective, is very much heightened by a contrafled fucceffion of bare and barren mountains. This rude and rugged feencry, at length, began to fubfide; when a rich, fertile level opened again upon us; and after we had been accuflomcd for feven days, to the bleak and barren appearances of nature, the tranquil fcenes of cultivation afforded a mofl: refrefhing, profpect. We now palled the city of Tting-yan-yenn, a place of great extent and commerce. It is furrounded by a wall, whofe gates are flanked by flrong towers, and which extends near three miles along the river ; but of its breadth we were prevented from forming any accurate judgment, by the intervening groves, which appear before, and rife above, the walls. The fuburbs had a mean appearance; and the houfes projected over the water in thc fiime infecure and alarming manner, as I have already defcribed: a mode of building, common to all towns, and leffcr places, which are fituated on the banks of rivers. The great number of junks which were here at ?inchor announced the commercial flate of the city ; and the fucceffion of timber yards, all flored with great quantities of planks, and wood for every kind of conduction, marked a principal article of its trade. Several regiments of foldiers were drawn up on the beach, with a train of artillery : they were accompanied with triumphal arches, decorated in the fame pretty and fanciful manner as has already been told of other complimentary erections of the fame kind. From ( =5' ) , From this place thc river takes its courfe in a flrait, undeviating T79> direction for three miles, between a very fertile and highly cultivated December, country, in which rice fields appeared to abound. The mountains, which fo lately rofe on the banks, feemcd now to have retired, as it were, into the diftance, and ranged along the horizon. In this afternoon a very ferious accident happened, which might have produced the mofl fatal confequences : it was no lefs than a fire in one of the inferior junks; and, if great exertions had not been made, the veffel would have been very foon confumed. It was fuppofed to have been occafioned by a fpark falling unobferved from a tobacco pipe, which, trifling as it was, threatened the junk with irre-/iftible conflagration. The whole fleet experienced the good effects of the rich and fertile country which we now entered, by the improvement that was experienced in every article of our daily fupplies. We this day received a large quantity of excellent provifions, with a jar of a very pleafant liquor, which is extracted from the fugar cane, and refembles in flavour the rum fhrub, fo well known in our own country. The ruins of a pagoda, and fome of thofe fepulchres which I have already mentioned, gave a picturefque appearance to the fpot where they had been erected, and were the concluding objects of this day's voyage. The weather was warm and pleafant, and thc country in a fine flate Tuefday 17. of cultivation; while the river incrcafed in breadth, and admitted junks • of a larger fize than we had yet feen. At eleven o'clock this morning we paffed the large village of Ouz-chouaa, with a crowd of manufactories in its neighbourhood 1 whether they were in the porcelain or iron fervice, I could not dif- K k z cover $ '793' j cover; but the fmoke of their furnaces told us that fire was a principal December, operator in them. As we proceeded, the country increafed in beauty on both fides of the river, and foon became a continued chain of pretty villages, fruitful fields, and handfome houfes. In the afternoon the provifion junks ftill improved in their cargoes, and brought us an abundant fupply of excellent provifions and fruits, with a quantity of Samptchoo, a liquor which has been already mentioned. At eight o'clock in the evening the fleet anchored before a very large and commercial city, called Sangs-wee-yenno, when the Ambaffador was faluted with an amazing difcharge of artillery from all quarters of it. This mark of refpect was accompanied by every other demonftration of regard that could be fhewn on the occafion : triumphal arches appeared with all their gaudy decorations * temporary pagodas were erected to heighten the artificial fcenery; and a platform, fuch as has been already defcribed in former parts of our voyage, was prepared to accommodate his Excellency, if it fhould be his wilh to vifit thc grand mandarin: to thefe circumfiances may be added all that illumination could do, in a country where that fpecies of fplen-dor is fo well underftood and in fuch continual practice; fo thai fome notion may be formed of the manner in which the fleet was received by this city. Wednef- In the courfe of this morning we paffed feveral very large and com-day J8. merciai towns ; and, if any j udgment could be formed from the unceafing difcharge of artillery, it might be fuppofed that a chain of forts lined the fhore; if we are alfo juftified in drawing a conclufion from the numbers of people on the banks of the river, and in veffels on the water, we might believe that, from the time we failed, which was at fo early an hour as two o'clock, the fleet was pafting for upwards of ( *53 ) of two hours through the middle of an immenfe city, which had J793-poured forth all its inhabitants to catch fuch an imperfect view of us, December, as the early part of the morning would allow. At the dawn of day, we came to the city of Tayn-tfyn-tau, a place of great importance and immenfe trade. Several thoufand foldiers were drawn up along the beach, with a proportionate train of artillery, which thundered out a falute as we paffed. This city, or, perhaps, to fpeak more correctly, thefuburbs of it, are built on each fide of the river; which, for many miles, was covered with junks laden with merchandife, or preparing to receive it; and fome of them were of very large dimenlions. We continued failing before, or rather through, this place till feven o'clock, and, from the rate of our paffage, I have no doubt but it is eight miles in length: of its breadth, no judgment could be formed on board the fleet; but, from the general appearance of the city, and the houfes of the refident merchants, with other commercial circumfiances, its trade muft be immenfe, and its opulence in proportion: it appeared, indeed, to be only inferior to the cities of Pekin and Canton. The river continued to be covered with a crowd of junks; fo that it was with fome difficulty the fleet proceeded on its voyage, which at length approached its termination ; for, about noon, it came to anchor within a mile of the city of Canton, and but two miles diftant from the Englifh factory. In confequence of an cxprefs difpatched by the conducting mandarin to Canton, to notify the arrival of thc Ambaffador, feveral mandarins, in the different departments of government, came to vifit his Excellency. They were foon followed by the Britifh commifTionerss the Company's fupercargocs, and Colonel Benfon, a very welcome vifitor^ ( 254 ) 1793. vilitor, for he not only brought the public difpatdies for Lord Ma-1dSS*R cartney, but a large packet of private letters from England, and all the news-papers which had arrived by the lafl fhips from Europe, Orders were iffued by thc Ambaffador for the whole fuite to difem-bark on the following day. Thurfdayig. The embaffy was removed into larger junks, which had been pre-vioufly fitted up to go down the river. In palfing down this fpacious river it is impoffible to defcribe thc magnificence of its navigation; for we faw, without exaggeration, feveral thoufinds of trading junks ; nor were the veffels which were crowded with people to fee us pafs inferior in number; while the banks on either fide were covered with houfes, built very much in the flyle of European architecture. There are alfo a fucceffion of forts well fupplied with men and artillery ; and their refpett:ive garrifons were drawn out in military array on the beach before them, with their colours, mufic, and all the enfigns of war. Thefe forts faluted the fleet by a fucceflive difcharge of artillery, and indeed the air refounded for near an hour with the repeated firing of great guns from every quarter. There were alfo feveral thoufand foldiers in military junks, who added the compliment of their mufquetry. It was a very large army both on land and water, and the whole of them funk down on their knees, as a manoeuvre of military reflect, till the Ambaffador had paffed. At one o'clock we arrived oppofite the Englifh and Dutch factories j when both of them faluted his Excellency with a difcharge of artillery, and inflantly hoifted the ftandards of their refpective nations. 4 Ifere C 255 ) Here we faw great numbers of boats, containing all kinds of pro- t *79> vifions, fruits and merchandize, for fale. They rowed backwards December, and forwards, announcing, at thc fame time, their various commodities, with very violent vociferation, as is feen and heard among the owners of provifion wherries on the Thames. It appeared very lingular to us, that mofl of the boats which wTe had feen for feveral days, were rowed and fleered by women. It is not, indeed, by any means, uncommon to fee a woman, with a child tied by a linen bandage to her back, and another fuckling at her breafl, while the mother herfelf is employed in handling the oar, or guiding thc helm. I have alfo continually obferved women on fhore engaged in the mofl laborious employments, with an infant fattened to their breafl. Such unpleafing, and it may be added to the feeling mind, fuch an affecting fpectacle, is never feen in any of thofe parts of Tartary through which the embafly paffed ; for the women there, as well as in the northern provinces of China, have their feet crippled from their infancy, fo that they can never fubmit to fuch fatiguing occupations. I was permitted to take the meafure of a lady's foot, who was twenty years of age, which meafured no more in length than five inches and an half. Of this compreffion of the feet, it may, indeed^ be faid to be a partial practice. Lord Macartney, and the whole fuite, went afliore, and took pof-feffion of the refidence which the Eaft India Company's fupcrcargoes had provided for the ufe of the embaffy, during its flay at Canton. This temporary habitation, both in refpect: to accommodation and extent, was far fuperior to any we had feen in our long journey through this country. Nor was it among the leafl agreeable circumfiances of our pre fent fituation, that we faw, once again, a domeflic arrangement which partook of the habitual comforts of our native foil. CHAP. ( *5<5 ) CHAP. XXV. Some account of Canton. Proceed from thence to Wampoa, and Ma-coa; brief account of them. Circumfances relative to the refidence of the embaffy at the latter place. Sail for England. December. ANTON, or Quanton, is fituatcd on the fouth fide of the river, to Saturday 21. which it gives a name, and lies in about one hundred and twelve degrees eaft longitude, and twenty-four degrees fouth latitude. It is furrounded by a wall, near thirty feet in height, built of ftone, and defended in every direction, particularly towards the river, by very ftrong forts, mounted with heavy artillery, and garrifoned with numerous troops. It is im-poftible, however, to form an accurate judgment of its extent, as it is built on a plain; the furrounding country being one continued level, except towards the fouth, where ftrangers are never permitted to go. The ftreets of the city are, in general, from fifteen to twenty feet in breadth, and paved with broad ftones. The houfes feldom rife above one ftory, and are built of wood and brick. The fhops have their fronts fancifully ornamented, with a balcony, that rifes from the pent-houfe roof over the door, and is adorned with gilding and colours. The drefs of the inhabitants does not differ from thofe which have been already defcribed. It is, however, a very remarkable circumflance, that notwithftanding this city is fo much to the fouthward of Pekin, the winter fhould be fo fevere as to induce the inhabitants to wear furs : and that fuch cloathing is not altogether confidered as a matter of luxury, or confined to the higher order of the people, is evident from the ( 257 ) the great numbers of furrier's fhops which I faw, and, as it appeared, (_*79> flocked with large quantities of fur cloathing. It confifled of the December. Ikins of leopards, foxes, bears, and iheep. Thc fkins were well dreffed, made up in the form of jackets, and are worn with the rough fide towards the fkin. The Viceroy's palace at Canton, in form, dimenfions, and ornaments, is the counterpart of that which the Ambaffador occupied at Pekin : any defcription of it would, therefore, be fupcrfluous. Of public buildings there are none, unlefs triumphal arches, and gateways, which are very numerous, may be included under that denomination. The number of inhabitants in this city is cflimated at a million: and its large and extcnfive fuburbs may, without exaggeration, be faid to contain half that number. Indeed, if the perfons arc included, who navigate, and live on board, the very numerous junks and fampans, or fifhing boats, with which the Canton river is covered, my calculation will be confiderably exceeded. This river, as it approaches thc city, is equal in breadth to the Thames, in its widefl part. It abounds alfo in various kinds of fine fifh; but the water is very unwholefome for flrangers, till it has flood long enough for a very confiderable fediment to fubfidc: the people, however, who live in the junks, ufe it, as I am informed, for every purpofe, and without any inconvenience that I could learn. When we were on the river that flows by Tong-tchew, an experiment was made reflecting the water, and, in a fingle gallon of it, there remained, on flraining it, half a pint of yellow fand ; yet in this flate the people of the country univerfally ufe it, and have no idea of purifying it by filtration. We had no opportunity of becoming acquainted with the common maladies of the people who live on the banks of that river—but water fo charged as this appears to be, mufl have L1 fome ( *58 > »79$* fome prejudicial effect on the conflitutions of thofe who continually December, life it* Though this is the only port in thc empire of China, where Euro-. peans are fuffcred to trade, all commercial bufinefs is tranfacfed in the fuburbs, which are about a mile from the city. They are very extcnfive, and without any pretentions to grandeur or elegance. The ftreets are, in general, very narrow, and always thronged with people. The houfes are of wood, confifting only of a ground floor and upper flory. They all contain fhops, and are fitted up within after the Engliih manner, to which thc inhabitants appear to have a decided partiality. Indeed, it was not uncommon to fee their names written on the figns, in Englifh characters, and adapted to Engliih orthography. The porcelain warehoufes which I faw here, are faid, audi believe with great truth, to exceed any fimilar repofitories in the world, for extent, grandeur, and flock in trade. The warehoufes of the tea merchants are alfo filled with extcnfive ranges of chelts, which contain an article, now become almofl a neceffary of life in our country, and of increafing ufe in every other part of Europe. The factories of the feveral European companies, who trade to this part of the eaftern world, are formed in the flyle of that quarter of the globe to which they belong. Thc buildings are conftructed of flone and brick, on a very fubftantial plan; they fo far conform to the architectural defigns of the country, which I believe to be the belt, that they inclofe large courts, where there are apartments for the fuper-cargoes and writers, as well as for the captain and mates of lhips, during the time they are loading their lhips. There is a range of thefe factories along the river, but without the leaft communication with each other j and their general diftinction is the flag, or flandard of their refpective countries, which are feen flying during the day on fome confpicuous part of each factory. i The ( 259 ) The feveral nations whofe trading companies have factories here, are England, Holland, France, Sweden, Denmark, Portugal, Spain, December, and America. But the Engliih, both from the extent of their buildings, and the number of their mips, appear to engrofs almoft the whole of the China trade to themfelves. The refidence of Lord Macartney was on the oppofite fide of the river; and, as a mere place of temporary accommodation, was contrived with great judgment, and arranged with uncommon attention to the convenience of the upper order of the embalfy : the reft of the fuite occupied fome of the company's ftore-rooms, which were fitted up in a very neat and commodious manner for the occafion. For feveral days after his Excellency's arrival at this place, be was entertained during dinner by a Chinefe play, on a ftage erected before the windows of his apartment; and with extraordinary feats of legerdemain, which always accompany their public entertainments of this country. The Viceroy of Canton paid the Britifh Ambaffador only one vifit during his ftay here, which was followed by .large prefents of fugar-candy, porcelain and nankeen, to thc whole retinue of the embaffy. The gentlemen of the Britifh factory entertained Lord Macartney and the whole fuite with great elegance and hofpitality, on Chriilmas day, 1793, and the firft day of January 1794. They alfo made a requifition to engage the band of mufic that had accompanied the embaffy, from whofe fervice it was accordingly difcharged, and entered into that of the Englifh factory ; a very valuable acquifition in a country and fituation, where fo little exterior amufement of any kind is to be obtained. Nor can I, in this place, where I am to take leave of Canton, avoid cxpreffing a regret, that the inhabitants of it are very different L 1 2 in x793- in point of honefty, from the people of every other part of China December, where we had been; at leafl, as far as my means of obfervation would enable me to judge. Nor is it with lefs concern that 1 attribute this local character, which is knavifh in the extreme, to their being the inhabitants of the only place where there is any communication with the natives of other countries. On the eighth of January, 1794, Lord Macartney fet off with his whole retinue, in boats, for the Lion man of war, then lying at Wampoa. At the fame time, Mr. Maxwell and Mr. Barrow, with, certain attendants, were ordered to proceed to Macao, to make preparations for the reception of his Excellency at that place. They went in junks by another river, which flows from Canton to Macao, and paffingby that place, empties itfelf into the fea. The country on each fide of the river, between Canton and Wampoa, is rich, fertile, and full of variety; feveral lofty pagodas fuc-eeffively enlivened thc diftant parts of thc progrefhvc profpects. Wampoa is the place where all fhips come to an anchor, being univcrfiiily prohibited to proceed further up the river. It is a very beautiful and populous village, at the diftance of about eighteen miles from Canton. The houfes are built of a lead-coloured brick, with numbers of fine trees interfperfed among them. The adjacent country is a continued level; but the oppofite fide of the river, which is not fo wide here as at Canton, wears a different and more irregular appearance. At no great diftance from this place there is a fand-bank or bar, which cannot be paffed by large veffels but at high water. There are alfo two necks of land that project on either fide of the river, which form the paffage called the Bocca Tygris. Here are flrong forts on each fide with batteries and troops; and as the Lion paffed fhe received a falute of three guns, from each of them* ( *«' ) Previous to the departure of Lord Macartney from Wampoa, he ( 293*-/ received the farewel vifit of the attendant mandarin Van-Tadge-In. December* Of this diftinguifhed perfonage and amiable man, it is impolfible to ufe expreffions beyond the merit he difplayed in his care of, and attention to, every perfon attached to the Britiih embaffy. He was appointed by the Emperor of China to attend and conduct it • and, from the time we landed on the fhore of the Yellow fea, to our arrival at Wampoa, he never quitted it for a moment. In all this long and various journey, he never neglected for an inflant the duties of his office, nor omitted any opportunity of executing them in a manner the mofl agreeable to thofe who were entrufled to his care and direction : it was a talk of no common trouble and difficulty; but he was not feen on any occafion or at any time to fpare himfelf in performing it. He was amiable in his manners, affable in his demeanour, ready in his communication, active in his arrangements, and folicitous in the extreme not only to procure all poffible accommodations, but to fuit them, as far as the circumfiances of the country would allow, to European habits and cufloms. He was a mandarin of the firfl clafs, and held a very high, if not the highefl rank, in the army of China: but neither fituation or dignity had elevated his mind above the difcharge of duties, whatever they might be, or the fuggcflions of kindnefs, to whatever objects it might be directed. Nor was this all i in the true fpirit of benevolence, he acquired a fricndlhip for thofe in whofe fervice it had been fo continually employed; and his lafl adieu to the Ambaflador and the fuite was accompanied with the tears of affection. The mandarin Van-Tadge-ln, we well know, is high in the confidence of his fovereign; and, from his virtues, there can be little doubt that he bears a very diflingiiifhed character in the fphcre of private life and public duty. But though the teflimony of refpect which is recorded on this page cannot add to his fame, it will prove, at leafl a fincere admiration of fuperior merit, and a grateful fenfe of con-defcending favour, in the writer of it. Thfi 179+- The Canton river is fo well known, that it would be not only January, fuperfluous, but impertinent in me, to add another defcription to the many which have been already given of it. Wednf- Lord Macartney landed at Macao, and was received to dinner at day ;4' the houfe of the Governor. In the afternoon he went to the refidence of Mr. Drummond, one of the fupercargoes of the Eaft India Company, where his Lordlhip refided during his flay at this place. Here the gentlemen of the feveral European factories have their feparate houfes, as they are not fuffcrcd to remain at Canton beyond the time neceffary to prepare cargoes for the lhips of their refpective nations. Macao is fituated in no degrees of eaft longitude, and about 22 degrees of fouth latitude. It is a place of fome extent, and built ■ on a rock. The houfes are of flone, and conftructed on the plan of European architecture, but without exterior elegance : the ftreets are very narrow and irregular, as they take the unequal furface of the fpot on which they are erected. The public buildings confift of churches, convents, and the fenate-hotife, which terminate the only fpacious and level ftreet in the town. The Governor's houfe is fituated on thc beach, oppofite the landing place, and commands a beautiful profpect, but is not remarkable for external elegance or interior accommodation. Contiguous to it is the Englifh factory, a plain, commodious building; the other factories are in the fame ftyle, and all of them furrounded with gardens. The upper parts of Macao command very cxtenfive views of the fea and adjacent country. The harbour is very commodious, and fheltered from the winds, but will not admit fhips of large burden. The town is defended, in all directions, by flrong forts mounted with heavy cannon, and garrifoned with Portuguefe troops. The fea runs into the harbour, through a narrow channel between the Ladrone iflands and the town, and forms a fine bay behind it, extending at leaft four miles, when it is bounded by a neck of land that feparates it from a large river. Here the Chinefe have ( ) have a fort that looks towards thc Portuguefe territory, and it is the t i principal duty of the garrifon to prevent ffrangers from paffmg the January*, limits of it. No one is fullered to walk on the neck of land, nor is any boat permitted to approach that fide of the fhore. There is a fmall, pretty ifland, in the middle of the bay, which contains the habitation of a mandarin, who frequently refides there, but feldom vilits the town. Macao is generally fuppofed to be fituated on an ifland; but the fa mained till the firfl day of July, when they returned on board, and the April TVfefflfly 8. ( *&1 ) the fleet fet fail for England, with the addition of the following mips % 17 night clear. A. M. employed occafionally. Moderate and clear. P. M. faw a whale, and at half-pail; 9 an eclipfe Thurfday«. of thc moon, which continued to half-paft 12, never being more than two-thirds eclipfed, by which we calculated our longitude to be 122 deg. 41 min. call of Greenwich. * Light breezes and clear. P. M. at 2 founded in 22 fathoms water. Friday 13/ At midnight founded in 20 fathoms water. At 4 A. M. founded in 19 fathoms water. At 6 made fail, and at 8 founded in 20 fathoms water. * It appears evident from this obfervation, that thofe hiftorians who have treated of China were very imperfect in their geographical eftimates ; as Pekin, which is confiderably to the eaft-ward of that coaft where the obfervation was taken, is only ftatcd at 116 degrees of eaft longitude; fo that the difference is almoft 7 degrees j a cogent proof of their ignorance relative to the interior kiftory of this empire. O o 2 « Light v___-1 Auguft. Saturday 24. Sunday 25. Monday 46. Whelps S.S. W. Buffatoe's Nofe N. W. Tuefday 27. Off Tree-a-top ifland, Wedncf-day 18. Thurfdayag. Friday 30. At anchor off Kitto's point. Saturday 31. September. Sunday Light breezes and clear. Tried the current and found it fet N. §&E, 2 miles j at 8 cloudy, at midnight no bottom, at 3 A. M. made fail, warned the lower and orlop decks, Hindoftan and Clarence in company. Moderate and clear. P. M. Made fail; at midnight departed this life Robert Chambers, cooper, at 2 A. M. committed the body to the deep. At 6 faw the tend bearing from S. by E. to S. S. W» at 7 fqually, at 9 Clarence ifland 6 or 7 miles bearing S. by E. at noon founded in 20 fathoms. Moderate and cloudy. At 5 P. M. extremes of JackalPs ifland from weft to W. N. W. At 6 departed this life Wm. Bell, feaman ; at 9 committed the body to the deep. Lion ifland W. Blunt-Peak ifland W. by S. in 7 fathoms water. Frcfh breeZes with rain. At 1 P. M. came to with the coafting anchor in £f fathoms. Buffaloe's Nofe S. S. E. Truman's ifland S. i E. At 5 out launch, at 6 the cutter with Mr. Whitman went on an embaffy to Chufan. A. M. Frequent gufts of wind. Fiefh breezes and fqually, with rain. People employed occafionally. Squally, with rain. Departed this life Mr. Wm. Cox, 4th Lieutenant, fent the body on fhore to be buried. A.M. Arrived the Clarence. Ditto weather. At 2 P. M. weighed, turning through GofPs Paffage; at 7 anchored in 1 1 fathoms, Kitto N. E. f N. At 5 A. M. weighed, at half pall 7 anchored in 10 fathoms, Kitto Point N. § E. Read Mr. Omanny's commiflion as 4th Lieutenant, and Mr. Warren's as acting to the fhip's company. Ditto weather. Employed occafionally; fent the cutter to found, and wafhed. thc decks. Moderate and cloudy. A. M. Half-paft 4 weighed, working into Chufan harbour, at 11 came to with the coafting anchor in 9 fathoms ; carried out a kedgc with 4 hawfers to warp the fhip into thc anchoring place; at half-paft .11 weighed. Employed warping. 1 Frefh Remarks on Board his majtftfs Ship Lion, off China. Frclli breezes and fqually, with rain at times. Employed warping i793"_j to the kedge; at 2 came to with the belt bower in 6 fathoms, sJpttm ber, moored fhip a cable each way, bell bower to the N. N. E. fmall Moaday2-bower S. S. W. center of the hill at the can: end of Chufan town N. E. by E. I mile. A. M. Light breezes and fair; loofed fails to dry. Employed rounding the fmall bower cable. Light breezes and cloudy. P. M. Sent down royal mails and rig- Tuefday 3. ging: unbent the fails, and unrove the running rigging. A. M. Sent Chufon^Luv down top-gallant mails. Received water. bour- Light breezes and fair. Employed overhauling the rigging; at 6 Wednefday4-A. M. fent the fick on fhore; flruck yards and top-mails, fhipped fore and main top-malls. Light breezes and cloudy^ Employed over-hauling the top-mail Thurfday & rigging ; received a bullock on board. Ditto weather, with lightning in the S. W. People fitting the rig- Friday 6. ging afrefh. A. M. Launch watering, killed a bullock 201 lbs. Departed this life Richard Wellh, feaman; committed his body to the deep. Moderate and cloudy. Employed about the top-mall rigging; re- Saturday 7-ceived 2 bullocks and 105 pumpkins. A. M. Employed as before; killed a bullock 204.IDS. warned lower and orlop decks. Moderate and fair. Employed about the rigging; killed a bullock Sundays. 2361bs. A. M. Yawl watering; received a bullock and 4 goats. Puniihed John Francis, feaman, with 12 lames, for theft. Light breezes and cloudy. A.M. Received water per launch ; rig^ Monday 0a. ged thc top-mad, killed a bullock and 4 goats, 291 lbs. received water per launch and 2 bullocks. Moderate and cloudy, with heavy rain. A. M. Light winds and Tuefday ic*. fair. People about the rigging and blacking the yards, caulking over the fide, launch watering; killed 2 bullocks Light airs and cloudy. Employed overhauling the rigging. A. M. VVednef*. Roufed up the hell bower cable and flowed ilavcs under it. De- tJ> parted this life Stephen Pounce, feaman; interred the body. Moderate and cloudy, with heavy rain. Employed as neceffary. fWfdayia. A. M. Launch and yawls watering. Moderate. September. Friday 13. Saturday 14. Sunday 1$, Monday 16. Tuefday 17. Wednesday 18, Thurfday 19. Friday to. Saturday*!. Sunday 22t Moderate breezes with rain. Employed as before, launch and yawls watering. A. M. Employed clearing the after-hold and rattling the top-mall rigging. Saluted a mandarin with 3 guns. Ditto weather. P. M. Employed in the after-hold ; faluted a mandarin with 3 guns, and a fuperior one with 7. A. M. Punifhed Henry Morris, feaman, with 12 lathes, for drunkennefs. Light breezes and cloudy. Arrived the Endeavour brig. A. M. The Endeavour faluted with 7 guns, returned 5 ; received water, employed llarting it; fwayed up the lower yards, ridded top-gallant and royal mails, rattled the lower rigging, received bread from the Hindoftan. Moderate breezes. Employed watering. Light winds and cloudy. P. M. Received bread from the Hindoftan. A. M. Sent the launch to the JackalPs afliftance, (he being on fhore without the harbour. Employed ihifting the coals and rattling the rigging. Fired 21 lower-deck guns being the Emperor of China's birth-day ; killed a bullock and 4 goats. Moderate and cloudy. Launch aflifling the Jackall j at midnight frefti breezes and fqually, with violent peals of thunder and fierce flames of lightning; ftruck the royal mafts, fecured the pumps and magazines. A. M. Yawls watering. Ditto weather. Yawls watering; got royal mafts upon deck, ftruck yards, top-mafts and top-gallant mafts. A. M. People employed occafionally, received from thc Hindoftan beef and pork. Light breezes and clear. Employed in thc after-hold; caulkers on the larboard fide; received on board beef from the Hindoftan, and water per launch. Ditto weather. Employed flowing the after-hold; launch and yawls watering, received from the Hindoftan beef and pork. A. M. Received from ditto beef, oatmeal, and flour; cooper repairing the heads of the calks. Scraped the larboard fide. Light breezes and cloudy. Employed flowing away provifions, coopers as before. A. M. Cleared haufe, launch watering. ^ Light Light breezes and cloudy. Caulkers as before. A. M. Punifhed ( ]?92' Jeremiah Harrington, feaman, with i 2 lafhes for infolencc. Coo- September. pers and caulkers as before; launch and yawls watering. Received Monday*3« bread from the Hindoftan. Ditto weather. Caulkers on the larboard fide; received peas from Tuefday24. the Hindoftan; received water. Painters about the ftern. A M. Received pork, beef, oatmeal, and flour, from the Hindoftan. Frefh gales and fqually. People and painters as before. A. M. Wednef. Employed fcraping thc fides; received 4 bullocks, killed 2, weight 4261bs. Ditto weather. People and painters as before. A.M. Received rum Thurify 16. from the Hindoftan ; received water on board. Moderate and fair. Received beef and pork from thc Hindoftan, Friday 27. painters about the fides, caulkers and fail-makers employed, people in the hold, received a bullock, killed 2, weight 432lbs. A. M. Received from the Hindoftan beef, pork, fuet, and vinegar. Launch and yawls watering. Ditto weather. Painters as before; fail makers repairing the Cla- Saturday^, rence's fails; received peafe, oatmeal, and flour from the Hindoftan. A. M. j Received vinegar, beef, and pork from the Hindoftan, and water per yawls. Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. Completed the holds; received Sunday 29. 3 bullocks, killed 2, weight 37110s. received from the Hindoftan beef, pork, fuet, and vinegar. A. M. Yawls watering. Ditto weather. Gunners painting the guns. A. M. Carpenters re- Monday 30. pairing the launch on fhore, people pointing the ends of the cables, received bread from the Hindoftan, ferved vinegar to the people. Moderate and fair. Gunners as before, carpenters repairing the oaober. launch ; killed 2 bullocks, 311 lbs. fet up the fore and main rig- Tucfday '* ging. A. M. Sail-makers as before. Moderate and cloudy, with rain. Received 8 bullocks, 16 goats, Wednesdays* and 700 bundles of wood, faluted a mandarin with 7 guns, received wood October. T hurl day 3. Friday 4. ■Saturday j. Sunday 6. Monday 7. Tuefdav S. Wednefdayg. Thurfday 10. Friday 11. Remarks on Board his Rfajefly's Ship Lion, in Chufan Harbour. wood from thc Rindoftan. A. M. Coopers making empty cades ; yawls watering; killed 2 bullocks, 367^. Ditto weather. Carpenters repairing the launch ; killed 2 bullocks 305lbs. coopers as before. A. M. Received 2 bullocks, fcraped lower gun-deck, yawls watering. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Carpenters lining the lower deck ports and repairing the launch, cleared haufe, received water, killed 2 bullocks weight 3071118, Weather as before. Employed working up junk, carpenters as before, caulkers caulking the launch's bottom. A. M. Rain. Employed working up junk ; killed 2 bullocks, 300lbs. received water per yawls. Ditto weather. Carpenters, caulkers, and fail-makers as before; received water per yawls, killed a bullock, 24ilbs. A. M. Received on board a bullock ; cleared haufe. Moderate and fair. Caulkers on lower-gun deck; received 4. bullocks. A. M. received water per yawls ; wafhed and fmoked lower gun-deck, carpenters repairing the launch, fail-makers repairing thc forefail, caulkers on board the Clarence, killed 2 bullocks, 43 libs. Ditto weather. Caidkers and fail-makers as before ; received 2 bullocks, killed 1, weight 273UJS. A. M. Employed watering, fur-veyed the gunner's flores, the fick returned on board. Light breezes and fair. Carpenters lining lower deck ports. A. M. Swayed up top-mafls, lower yards, and top-gallant malls. Sail-makers as before ; killed a bullock, 2 281bs. Weather as before. Employed letting up the top-mall rigging, coopers repairing banacoes, received water per yawls. A. M. Cleared haufe ; killed 2 bullocks, 24olbs. Ditto weather. P. M. Sent a party to bring off the launch. A. M. Rove the running rigging and bent the fails; fail-makers making hammocks, received wood, killed a bullock 215lbs. yawls watering. Moderate Moderate and fair. P.M. Received 2 bullocks* and 4 goats ; killed »79.v 2 bullocks, 47olbs. The grand mandarin paid us a vifit; faluted * oaober. * him with 7 guns on his coming on board and leaving the fhip 2 Saturday 12, manned fhip at his pafling. A. M. Employed getting ready for fea. Ditto weather. Received 4 bullocks and 8 goats. A. M. unmoored Sunday 13. fhip ; employed watering; at 11 weighed the fmall bower, and fluffed 2 cables length further down, and came to in 6 fathoms : received 2 bullocks, and killed one of them, weight 22olbs. Sailed the Endeavour and Jackall. Light breezes and cloudy. Received wood and 2 bullocks, killed 1, Monday 14. weight 293IDS. fail-makers as before: departed this life Thomas Addifon, feaman; interred the body. Moderate and cloudy. Caulkers on the main deck. A.M. killed a Tuefday 15:; bullock, weight 234^5. Light breezes and fair. Sent 10 invalids on board the Hindoftan. Wednef- A. M. Puniflied Thomas Lock, feaman, with 12 lafhes, for riotous day *6' behaviour. Moderate and clear. Saluted a mandarin with 7 guns, returned thc Thiirfifay 17, Hindoftan's falute with 9; at 5 weighed, found the anchor flock gone; half-paft 5 came to with the coafting anchor in 19 fathoms, Deer Ifland N. by W. A. M. Half-paft 9 weighed, turning towards Kitto point; carpenters employed making an anchor flock. Moderate and clear. P. M. At 3 running through GofTs Paffage ; Friday 18. at 4 faluted a mandarin with 4 guns on his leaving the fhip ; half-paft 5 came to with the coafting anchor in 7 fathoms, Buffaloed Nofe S. W, by W. hoifted in the launch, killed 2 bullocks 462ms. A. M. At half-paft 6 weighed and made fail, Clarence in company ; at noon Patchacock ifland N. W. j N. 7 or 8 miles. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Half-paft noon extremes of Hefan iflands Saturday 19. from S. W. by W. to S. W. by S. at 6 in 2d reefs, at 10 in 3d reefs ; at noon thc Clarence in company. P p Frefh \_' Frefh. breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 2 out 3d and 2d reefs; oaober. ftrono breezes, at 9 in 3d reefs. A. M. Killed a bullock, 224IDS, Sunday 20. p * at 9 lowered the top-fails to keep the Clarence a-head ; fail-makers making a covering lor the pinnace: at noon Clarence in. company. Monday 21. Frefh breezes* P. M. At 2 hoifted the top-fails, at 6 fpoke the Clarence, at 5 A. M. out 3d reefs, at 10 faw 6 junks, at noon feveral junks in fight; carpcuters flocking the belt bower anchor, Clarence in company. Tuefday 22. Frclh breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 5 out 2d reefs. A. M. At 6 faw Pedro Blanco N. by E. i E. at noon the weft end of the great Lama N. by W. eafl end N. E. by N. armourers at the forge. Wednef- Ditto weather. P. M. At 4 the body of the ifland of Tarlow Chow day 23. T J N. N. W. fhortened fail, and came to with the coafting anchor in At anchor off * ^cnt tne Clarence to Macao. A. M. At 9 weighed and made nmCa?h ^ * at noon came to w*tn tne coafting anchor in 8 fathomst J.adroncs. Tarlow Chow N. by E. i E. Macao town W. N. W. 7 or 8 miles. Thurfday24. Ditto weather. Yawls watering. A.M. Gunners ftretching breech*, ing fluff, coopers repairing banacocs. Friday 15. Ditto weather. Yawls watering. A. M. Squally; coopers as before.. Saturday 26. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Yawls, watering* ful-makers making coats for the mafts. A. M. Yawls as before, fhewed our colours to a fhip in the ofling, cleared the boatfwain's ftore-room. Sunday27. Frefh breezes and fair. Yawls watering. A. M. Employed occafionally. Monday 28. Light breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. The Clarence anchored clofe to. us ; paffed us the Waihington,. American fhip. A. M. Sail-makers covering man-ropes, and other jobs. Tuefday- 29. Ditto weather. Yawls watering; at 8 failed the Clarence for Macao ^ A. M. At 6. weighed, found the flock of the coafting anchor gone, made fail, half-pall 9 fhortened fail and came to with the befl bower in- jo fathoms, Tarlow Chow N, W. by W. | W. Sam Coke t ' " N..W. Remarks on Board his Majefly*s Ship the Lion, off the Lddrones, * N. W. 1 N. carpenters fitting a new anchor flock, a (well, E. S. E. At noon weighed and made fail, fail-makers as before. . Ociobcr, Light breezes and pleafant weather. Half-paft 12 found the fore-top- Wednet« maff, fprung down top-gallant-yard and mart upon deck, fhortened offMa3caV fail. At 4 came to with the heft bower in 1 o fathoms water, Tarlow ?m?"£t,,e ' Ladrones. Chow E. N. E. down fore-top-mafI, lent the pinnace and yawl on fervice, carpenters fifhing the fore-top-maft, and cutting another fid hole, warned lower gun-deck. Frefh breezes and foggy. Carpenters as before, fwayed the fore-top- Thurfdayji, maft and end, and flatted thc top-mad rigging. A. M. Fidded the top-maft, and fet up the rigging, carpenters making a coafting anchor flock, the boats returned on board, anchored a fchooner with hands for us. Ditto weather. Swayed up the fore-yard. A. M. Swayed up top- November, gallant-mafts, carpenters as before, fail-makers repairing the main- y fail. Moderate and fair. P. M. At 4 arrived a fhip from the N. N. E. Saturday », which fhewed French colours, fent the boats after her, cut the beft bower cable, and made fail, fired a fhot to bring her to. At 6 flic run into the Typer, hauled our wind to port, tacked occafionally : at half-paft 7 came to with the coafting anchor in 5 fathoms water, Macao town W. by N. 3 miles, Tarlow Chow S. E. 7 or 8 miles: at 9 the boats returned. A. M. At 5 fent an officer to Macao. Departed this life Stephen Smart, quartcr-mafter: at 8 committed the body to the deep : half-paft 9 weighed and made fail, turning towards the buoy of the heft bower, coopers packing empty flaves. Moderate and fair. P. M. At half-paft noon fhortened fail and came Sunday p to with the coafting anchor in our old birth ; employed creeping for the end of the beft bower cable, and getting it entered hove fhort on it. A. M. hove up the beft bower. Half-paft 8 weighed the coafting anchor and made fail; wafhed lower and orlop decks. At noon thc body of Tarlow Chow, E. by S. 6 miles. P p 2 Light November. Monday 4. Tuefday VVcdnef-day 6. Thuvfday 7. Friday 8. Saturday 9. Sunday 10. Monday zi< Light airs and cloudy. At 5 alTes cars S. $ W. 6 miles. A. M. At 9 frefh breezes and cloudy: fplit the fore-fail, clewed it up to repair, rove double iheets and proper tacks. Ditto weather. At 6 Pedro Blanco, N. N. E. 5 leagues. A.M. At 3 in 2d reefs. At 9 fplit the main-top-fail, clewed it up to repair* Half-paft 7 tacked down top-gallant-yards, carried away the mizen-top-fail-yards, unbent thc fail, fheeted home main-top-fail. At noon got up a jury mizen-top-fail-yard, and fet the fail. Carpenters making a mizen-top-fail-yard. Moderate and cloudy. P. M. unbent the fore-fail, and bent another; founded in 23 fathoms water. At midnight in 3d reefs, and furled mizen-top-fail. At 3 A. M. fet the mizen-top-fail; fail-makers making a new main-top-ftil out of two fprit-fail courfes. Half-paft 10 tacked out 3d reefs. At noon got up a proper mizen-top-fail-yard. Pedro Blanco, E. S. E. 7 miles. Ditto weather. P. M. unbent the mizen to repair, fail-makers as before, and repairing the fore-fail. A. M. tacked occafionally. Frefti breezes and cloudy. P. M. At S more moderate, out 2d reefs. At midnight tacked. A. M. carried away the jib-flay and hall-yards, fpliced them: carpenters making a machine to make rope with. Ditto weathcj^ P. M. At 4 unbent the new fore-fail, and bent thc old one. At 2 A. M. carried away the jib-tack, repaired ditto. At 5 carried away the main-top-gallant-fhcct, fpliced ditto, employed making rope. Ditto weather. P. M. At 6 in 2d reefs : at 7 found the forc-top-maft fprung 5 feet above the cap, in 3d reef fore-top-fail, down fore-top-gallant-yard and maft. A. M. ftrong gales, down main and mizen-top-gallant-yards; at 4 in 4th reef fore-top-fail: at noon fqually, furled the mizen-top-fail. Frelh gales and cloudy. P. M. At 4 wore fhip: at 6 ftrong gales and hazy, with a heavy fea, handed fore-top-fail: at 8 heavy gales, handed main-top-fail, fplit the main-fail, fet main-ftay-fail, and handed part of the main-fail, the remainder having blown from thc 4 • yard: Remarks on Board his Majefly s Ship the Lion, of the Ladrones. yard: at 9 fet main-top-fail: at half-paft 9 fet mizen-top-fail : at A. M. fplit main-top-fail, furled it, balanced and fet mizen: at 3 fet ftorm, fore and mizen-ftay-fail: at 6 fplit main-ftay-fail, hauled it down to repair: at half-paft 8 fet fore-top-fail, clofe reefed, unbent main-top-fail, and fent it down \ at noon a heavy fea. Frefh gales and cloudy. P. M. At 2 unbent the remainder of the main- TueWay fail, bent another main-top-fail, and fet it clofe reefed. At 6 furled the fore-fail, bent another main-fail, and furled it. A. M. At 5 out 4th and 3d reefs fore-top-fail, and 3d reef main-top-fail, fet mizen-top-fail, faw the land N. W. by W. loofed courfes. At 8 found the main-top-maft fprung in the cap, out 2d reef mizen-top-fail. At noon the eaft end of the Great Lama, E. N. E. Affes Ears W. S.W. fwayed up fore-top-gallant-maft. Light breezes and fair. P. M. At 4 out all reefs : at 7 fhortened Wednef-fail and came to with the coafting anchor in 16 fathoms water, Cockerpow N. W. by W. A. M. At 9 weighed and made fail : at 11 in 2 reefs, tacked fhip. At noon the Grand Ladrone, W. by E. a heavy fwell. Frefh breezes and clear. At 1 came to with the coafting anchor in Thurfday 13 fathoms water, the Grand Lama, W. S. W. A. M. At 6 weighed and made fail : at 10 fhortened foil and came to with the coafting anchor in *]\ fathoms water, Tarlow Chow, N. N. E. Ditto weather. P. M. At 4 weighed and made fail; at half-paft 4 Friday 1 came to with the coafting anchor in 7 fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. \ S. A. M. Half-paft 6 weighed and ftood into Sam Coke. At 7 came to with the coafting anchor in 6 £ fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. S. E. 1 mile, got fore and main-top-gallant-mafts upon decks : yawls watering. Frefh breezes and hazy with rain. Sent the main-top-maft down, and Saturday % another up; carpenters making a fore-top-maft out of the old main one, fent down the fore-top-maft, and cut it up, it being unfervice-able in its proper ufe. A. M. Fidded main-top-maft, and fwayed up the yard : employed making rope. Frefh Remarks on Board his Majefly's Ship the Lion, ofl" Macao. *--„-* Frefh breezes with rain. Carpenters converting; the main-top-maft November. . , , aa/ta-ii Sunday 17. into x tore one. A. JVI. Arrived the Clarence. Monday 18. Moderate and cloudy. Dried tails, yawls watering, fwayed up topgallant-mails, and fet up the rigging : yawls watering. Tuefday 19. Moderate and hazy. P. M. Yawls as before, carpenters repairing the Clarence boat, fail-makers repairing the fore-fail, people making rope, failed thc Clarence. A. M. Rove new fore and main-top-fail-braces : yawls watering. Wcdnef- Frefh breezes and fair. P. M. At 5 loofed and hoifted top-fails, fired day 20. ^ mot t0 bring to a veffel in fhore, fhe the wed Englifh colours, fent a boat on board her. A. M. Muftercd at quarters, found thc fhip driving, dropt the beft bower, carpenters repairing the yawl. T!mrrdav2i. Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 1 fired a fhot and brought to a brig under American colours, fent an officer to examine her papers, and found fhe belonged to the ifle of France, named the Emilia, Dumift and Roufell, merchants on the faid ifland, laft from the N. W. coaft of America, with 271 fur fkins on board ; detained her as a prize, fent a petty officer and 7 men to take charge of her. At half-paft 1 weighed the beft bower. A. M. At 5 the prize fired 3 mufquets, fent a boat on board her, found her driving, fecured her with havvfers, &c. At 8 found our fhip driving, dropt our beft bower; the yawl that was aftern of the prize was loft, the officer brought her ftcrn on board. Friday22. Frefh. breezes. P. M. At 4 hove up the beft bower, employed making rope. A. M. Found the fhip driving, dropt the beft bower. Half-paft 7 ftruck top-gallant-mafts, made the hawfer, the prize was riding by fall to the fhip through the gun-room-port forward. Saturday23. Frefli gales and cloudy. P. M. Employed working up junk: at 5 anchored the Clarence. A. M. The Clarence drove, with 3 anchors, a-head : fail-makers repairing the fore-fail. Sunday 24. Frefh breezes and clear. Sail-makers repairing the main-fail; the Clarence weighed her anchors, fent her under the lee of Tarlow Chow for ihelter. A, M. Muftercd at quarters. Frefh Frefh breezes and clear. People employed occafionally. A. M. Weigh- y_I^Sl—■ ed the beft bower, and parted the coafting cable, let go the fmall bower, yawl, and pinnace creeping for the end of the cable. Caft off the Prize. Moderate and clear. Received 9 feamen and a boy from the Clarence ; Tuefd 2(5 yawl and pinnace as before; fail-rnakers repairing courfes. Departed this life Thomas Steward, feaman. A. M. Committed the body of the deceafed to the deep. Ditto weather. P. M. Yawls and pinnace as before, creeping for the WcJncf, end of the cable, which they got; employed fecuring it. A.M. day 27. Sailed the Prize brig for the Typer, to land the prifoners at Macao. Light breezes and fair. P. M. At 5 hove up the beft bower, and ThurfdayaS warped the fhip to the coafting anchor, got the end of the cable on board, and weighed the anchor, made fail. At half-paft 5 came to with thc beft bower in y £ fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S. 2 miles. A. M. Yawls watering, bent the coafting cable, the inner end to the anchor, wTafhed below. Arrived the Emilia. Moderate and cloudy. P. M. At 3 weighed and flood in for the Frid ^ watering ifland, but falling little wind came to again with the beft bower in 5 fathoms water, Sam Coke, E. by S. fail-makers repairing the courfes. A.M. Yawls watering. Frefh breezes and cloudy. P. M. At 3 weighed and ftood nearer to Sam Coke. At 4 came to with the beft bovver in 6 fathoms water, body of Sam Coke, E. by S. 1 mile. A. M. Stayed.the mafts, and. fet up the rigging. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Small boats watering, fail-makers repairing courfes. A. M. Caulkers about the water ways. SuTdayV*. Ditto weather. Employed occafionally. A.M. Employed-knotting Mond 2s yarns and making rope, fail-makers repairing main-top-fail. People employed occafionally. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Small boats watering the Clarence. A. M. ~ r, J o 1 ucklay. 3.;. Hoifted out. the launch, fent a kedge anchor and hawfer on board' the Prizecarpenters repairing the pinnace. Modeiate Saturday 30. December. Remarks on Board his Majcfty's Ship Lion, off Linton JJland. December. Wednef-dav 4-Thuri'day 5. Friday 6. Saturday 7. Sunday 8. Monday 9. Tuefday 10. Wednef-day 11. Thuriday i». Friday 13. Moderate breezes. Employed making rope, failed the Prize from thc Typer. A. M. Frefh gales and hazy. Sail-makers repairing the main-top-fail. Sailed thc Clarence. Moderate and hazy. Employed as before. A. M. Small rain, fwayed up top-gallant-mafts. At 11 the Clarence arrived from thc Typer, with fome Englifh fcamen from the Emilia Prize, fent the boat on board and took them out. Light breezes and thick foggy weather. Launch watering, carpenters repairing the boats. A. M. Half-paft 8 weighed and made fail, tacked occafionally: palled by 3 Dutch fliips. Moderate breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. At 2 tacked : half-paft 3 came to with thc beft bower in 14 fathoms water, the north end of Linton ifland, N. by W. fouth end E. N. E. anchored the Clarence. A.M. Wafhed decks: failed the Clarence. Light airs and clear. Launch watering, received 3 bullocks. A. M. killed them, weight 513^5. launch watering. Light airs and cloudy. P. M. Received 11 bullocks, killed 4, weight 689lbs. A. M. Struck main-top-gallant-maft, and lowered the thc main-yard, lifted the main rigging, to fplice one of the fhrowds, it being flranded in the wake of the fervice; fent the yawl on board thc Warley Indiaman in the Offing. Moderate and hazy. Employed fitting the main fhrowds. A. M-Paffed by the Warley for Canton, employed flaying the main-maft and fetting up the rigging, anchored the Clarence. A. M. Swayed up thc main-yard and rattled the rigging. Light breezes and clear. P. M. Sail-makers making fkreens for the fore hatchway, failed thc Clarence. A. M. Received water per launch, carpenters repairing the cutter. Ditto weather. P. M. Received wood and 6 bullocks. A. M. Launch watering, fwayed up royal mafts, people making nippers and rope, painters employed painting the cabin and cutter; arrived the Clarence. Light airs and fine. P. M. Received water. A. M. At 6 weighed and made fail, as did the Clarence, running towards the Bocca Tigris. Half-paft 9 inclinable to calm, fhortened fail, and came to with • Remarks on Board his Majefty *s Ship Lion, off Bocca Tigris. with thc ben; bower in 6 fathoms water, veered \ a cable the en- \— trance of Bocca Tigris, N. N. W. Dccembei* Fine weather. At 3 P. M. weighed and made fail, tacked occafionally. Saturday 14. At 7 in tacking touched the ground, run the after guns forward, hoifted out the boats to tow, fent a boat to found round the ihip. Half-paft 7 the Clarence anchored on our larboard bow, carried out a hawfer to her, and hove on it, but finding her anchors came home, fent down royal and top-gallant-yards and royal mafts on decks, ftruck top-gallant-mafts, furled the fails, barred the ports in fore and aft, flocked the coafting anchor, and bent the ftrcam cable to it, when a-ground the body of Langute, S. W. g weft, the north eaftermoft of Sama Chow iflands, N. by W. the fouth weftermoft W. S. W. at dead low water having 15 feet the fhip healed to port. A. M. Employed ftarting water, carried out the coafting anchor to the S. E. and hove a ftrain, but could not move her; ftartcd more wTater, Half-paft 11 the Clarence weighed and anchored on our larboard, killed 5 bullocks, weight 64olbs. Light breezes and pleafant weather. P. M. The Clarence hauled Sunday 15. alongfideand received our fmall bower anchor and 2 cables, llipt the end from thehawfe, and took it in at the larboard ftcrn port. Half-paft 3 the Clarence hauled off and laid the anchor to the eaft ward, hove taut: at | flood flipt the ft ream, and hove off to the eaftward in 6 fathoms water. A. M. Fidded top-gallant and royal mafts, fwayed up the yards, Clarence weighing the coafting anchor. Light breezes and fine weather. Hauled the Clarence alongfide and Monday 16. took the coafting anchor from her. A. M. At 7 weighed and made fail, half-paft came to with the beft bower in 5 fathoms water, moored fhip, the north fort at the entrance of Bocca Tigris, N. fouth fort N. W. by N. a fmall rocky ifland at the entrance, N. N. W. received 1733ms. of beef. Ditto weather. Punifhed Francis Otto, feaman, with 12 lafhes, for Tuefday i;j theft; excrcifed great guns, fail-makers making a quarter-deck awning. Q^q - Light December. Wednef-day 18. Thurfday 19.. Friday 20. Saturday 21. Sunday 22. Light breezes. Received water. A. M. Sail-makers as before; gunners thumming a fcreen for the magazine ; faluted a mandarin; of the firft order with 3 guns on his coming on board. Weather as yefterday. Saluted a mandarin with 3 guns on his leaving the Ihip ; paffed by a fhip under Englifh colours. A. M. Arrived 4 fliips bound to Canton, viz. Ceres, Abergavenny, Ofterleyv and Lord Thurlow; fent a boat on board them. Light breezes and clear. People making floppers; fail-makers repairing the Clarence's fore-top-fail: exercifed the guns. Moderate and cloudy. Got the guns out of the cabbin, completed 6 on the quarter deck and 2 on the fore-caftle. A. M. Half-paft 9. weighed with a pilot on board to take us up the river; received I053iDs. frefh beef. Light breezes and cloudy. Employed working through the Bocca Tigris; 2 forts faluted us with 3 guns each, wc returned equal number, they likewife difplayed the colours over the guns and drew themfelves up in ranks : at 5 fhortened fail, and came to with the fmall bower in 5 fathoms water, veered | of a cable, the north point of Sketop iiiand N* W. a pagoda on the faid ifland N. W. A.M. Sail-makers making a poop awning; people making floppers. Monday 23. Light breezes and clear. P. M. Weighed and made fail, half-paft 2. anchored with the fmall bower in 6| ftthoms: veered | of a cable, the north point of Sketop ifland N. N. W. i W. A. M. At 3 weighed, out all boats to tow, which were affifted by 19 Chinefe boats with another tow-rope; half-paft 3 crofted the bar between 2 lines of boats full of lights; half-paft 7 came to with the fmall bower in 6 fathoms; veered away and moored fhip S. W. by Sa and N. E. by N. a cable on the fmall bower to the ebb and f a cable to the flood, a fquare pagoda S. E. off fhore i{ cable, Wampoa town W. S. W. 2 miles; found here the Hindoftan, Royal Charlotte, Ofterley, Ceres, Earl of Abergavenny, and Lord Thurlow, Englifh Indiamen ; Jackall, Company's marine, and 2 Americans; received on board wood. 4 Light At anchor in Wampoa river. Light breezes and clear. P. M. Employed occafionally. A. M. ^_^93J__, Read Mr. Ommaney's commifliom from the Lords of thc Admi- December, ralty as 5th Lieutenant, but as Lieut. Cox's commiffion was va- ruefd'^ z4' cant, Capt. Gower ordered him to act as 4th; read the order, and Mr. Tippet's acting order as 5th, likewife Mr. Warren's as 6th, alfo the articles of war, and Capt. Gower's orders to the fhip's company : wafhed decks, arrived the Glatton. Weather as before. People employed occafionally. A. M. Received Wediet 715lbs. of frefh beef: at noon part of the foldiers that attended the dl^25-Ambaffador to Pekin returned on board. Ditto weather. P. M. and A. M. Carpenters fixing fpare cabbins Ttorifoy**, under the half deck. Light breezes and hazy. P. M. Employed occafionally. A. M. Peo- Friday 27. pie making rope; came along-fidc feveral country boats with the Ambaffador's baggage, and 13 chefls of prefents for the fhip's company from the Emperor of China. Moderate and cloudy. P.M. Received water; employed flowing Saturday28. thc Ambaffador's wine; punifhed Peter Afhton and Richard Gur, feamen, with 12lafh.es each, for difobedience of orders; Richard Manning, Wm. Tipple, Robert Edwards, and John Hogan, feamen, with 12 ladies each, for difobedience and drunkennefs. Light breezes and hazy. Employed flowing the after-hold. A.M. Sunday «9< Received 595ms. frefh beef. Ditto weather. P.M. Manned fhip for his Excellency Vifcount Monday30. Macartney, as did the Hindoftan and Clarence: his Excellency was cheered by all the fhips as he paffed ; at 2 he came on board, at 5 he left the fhip. A. M. Employed fleeting the rigging : punifhed James Hervey and John Evans, feamen, with 12 lafhes each, for difobedience of orders. Light breezes and fair. Employed fctting up rigging, and in the after- Tuefday 31.] hold : cleared haufe ; fent 13 cafks of beef and 7 of pork on board thc Hindoftan. A. M. Arrived the Lord Walfingham from England : fent 30 cafks of beef and 25 of pork on board the Warley : employed in the hold. Qjl 2 Light Remarks on Board his Majefty's Skip Lion, in Whampoa River. !794« Light breezes and fair. Employed in the hold; fent 13 calks of January. beef and 7 of Pork on board the Hindoftan. Thurfdaya. Moderate and cloudy. P.M. Employed as before. A.M. Carpenters nailing battin in the hold to flow flaves over: coopers fetting up calks. Friday 3. Frefh breezes and fair. P. M. Employed in the holds: fell overboard and was drowned Alexander Ramfey, feaman. A. M. Employed in the hold. Saturday 4. Light airs and clear. Arrived the Hawke and Exeter from England. A. M. People employed occafionally; arrived the Henry Dundas from England. Sunday 5. Ditto weather. People as necefiary ; received a boat load of water, arrived a Spanilh fhip, received a top-mail: from tire Ceres India-man. A. M. Employed in the after-hold, warned lower gun-deck. Monday 6. Light breezes and fair. Employed in the after-hold: coopers repairing banacoes : punifhed Ralph Pilkinton, dragoon, with 1 z ladies, for difobedience of orders, riotous behaviour, and. drunkcn-nefs. Tuefday;. Moderate and cloudy. Received 3o64lbs. of bread and fome of the Ambaffador's baggage. A. M. Bent fails, punifhed Henry Nf-cholls and John Smith, feamen, with 12 lafh.es each, for theft, and Benjamin Addifon, marine, with 12 lafhes,. for infolence. WednefdayF. Ditto weather. Employed as neceffary. A. M. Employed getting the baggage belonging to thc Ambaffador and fuite on board: received on board wood. Thurfday 9. Light breezes and fair. Manned fhip and faluted Lord Macartney with 15 guns on his coming onboard, his fuite likewife embarked;, employed getting in the baggage. A. M. Cleared haufe, and unmoored fhip; at 11 weighed the fmall bower, and dropt a little lower down the river, and came to with the fmall bower; received i6oolbs. of frefh beef. " GLOSSARY. GLOSSARY o V CHINESE WORDS. CHINESE; ENGLISH, Tongau - -- -- -- - Sugar. Pytong - -- -- -- - Ditto, moid. Pyntong ------- Sugar-candy. Svvcc - Water. Lyangfwee ------ Ditto, cold. Kiefvvee Ditto, hot. Pynfvvee ------- - Ditto, ice* Man-toa.....- - - Bread. Tchau........Tea. Ttchau-woo ------ Tea-pot. Tchee-tanna (in the northern pro-1 vinces) ------ - )ESSS' Kee-tanna (in the fouthcrn pro-] . > Ditto. vinces).......J Yien - -- -- -- -- Tobacco. Yien-die ------- - Tobacco-pipe, Jec-au - -- -- -- - Fowls. Yaut-zau ------- Ducks, Ly-fau (in the northern provinces} Rice, Faun-na glossary* CHINESE. ENGLISH, Faun-na (in thofe about Hontchew") . ^ f xVieC. province) - -- -- --J Mce (fouthern provinces) - - - Ditto. Joo-au - -- -- -- - Wine. Samtchoo, or Sowtchoo - - - Spirits* Yeu-oa........ Fifh. Loa-boo Turnips. Chutz-yau ------- Pepper. Jifliimau ------- To au> thc name of a thing or place* Chou-au ------- - Good. Boo-chou....... Bad. Yinna........ Salt. Poit-zie - -- -- -- - General term for greens. Tannau........ Coals. Yoong - - - " - - - - A hawk. Pyeng - -- -- -- - Soldier. Pyng -------- - Tre. Quoitzau ------- Chop-fticks for eating with. Laatchoo ------- Candle. Tchooa - -- -- -- - Light. Tzou-fhia ------- Shoes, in general. Chow-chow ------ Victuals or meat. Chee-fanna ------- To eat meats. Kowaa - -- -- -- - To broil. Mann, Mann - - - - - - Stop or wait. Lobb, Lobb ------ Joining or coition. Tziu -------- - Paper. Jofh - -- -- -- -- God or Deity. Chinchin .------To fupplicate or pray. Youwafs....... Furnace. Too-paa......- - A pagoda. Tong-joo - -..... A fweet fpirit like rum-flirub. Chop- To glossary. chinese. english. Chop-chop ------- To make hafte. Foockee - -- ----- - Man. Foockee-lou ------- Good-morrow, Sir. Niodzaa ------- - Milk. Hoong - -- -- -- - Cheefe. Toudzaa Knife. Ickoochop ------- Very beft. Icko - -- -- -- -- One. Liaungko ------- Two. S uang ko ------- - Three.' Soocko ------- Four. Oocko - -- -- -- - Five. Leowcko ------- six. Shicko - -- -- -- - Seven. Packo - -- -- -- - Eight. Jowcko - -- -- -- - Nine. Sheego - -- -- -- - Ten. Sooee - - Sleep* Hongjoo ------- Red wine. Tchau-wanna ------ A tea-cup. Jeebau --------2* cubits, or i yard. Tyftiaufuee ------- Bed. Mecoulaa ------- Have not or cannot. FINIS, BOOKS Printed for J. D E B R E T T, Oppofite Burlington-House, Piccadilly. Tins Day is pubUJhed, NUMBER X. of the PARLIAMENTARY DEBATES, which completes thc FIRST VOLUME of the PRESENT SESSION, Reviled and collated with the Notes of feveral Members, THE PARLIAMENTARY REGISTER; or, the Hidory of thc Proceedings and Debates of LORDS and COMMONS; containing an Account of the moft intending Speeches and Motions, authentic Copies of all important Letters and Papers laid before either Houfe during the PRESENT SESSION. The Editors flatter themfelves that thefe Debates, which they have the honour to prefent to thc Public, will fully prove the earned deiire they entertain to act up to the very diftinguid\cd Patronage they have fo long experienced. 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