TRAVELS 1 N R T U G A L; through The PROVINCES of ENTRE DOURO E MINHO, BE IRA, EST REM ABUR Ay and ALEM-TEJO, In the Years 1789 and 1790. consisting of Observations on the Manners, Customs, Trade, Public Buildings, Arts, Antiquities, &c. of that Kingdom. By JAMES MURPHY, Archited. Illuftrated with PLATES. LONDON: Printed for A. Strahan, and T. Cadell Jun. and W. Davies (SuccciTors to Mr. Cadell) in the Strand, l795- CD run-tack.) t o his royal highness DON JOHN, Prince ofMmal jyjAY it pleafe your Royal Highness to permit me to lay at Your Feet this Work, being a Part of my Refearches in the Kingdom of Your Royal Highness j and to exprefs my Willies, at the fame Time, that Portugal, the benign Mother of glorious Difcoveries, may rival her ancient Greatnefs, under the aufpicious Reign of King John the Sixth. Your Royal Highness's Moft obedient, and moft devoted Servant, London, May 30, 1795. James Murphy* PREFACE. j^/jOST of the travellers who have hitherto obliged the world with their obfervations on Portugal, reprefent it as a barren inhofpitable field for information, without allowing it to pofTefs fcarcely an object worthy to arreft the attention of the Philofopher, the Antiquary, or Artift ; and, indeed, the contents of their pages appear to corroborate the reprefentation. Truth, however, will not allow me to plead the fame apology for the want of interefting matter in this work ; if it fall fliort of the end propofed, the fault is not to be afcribed to that fertile country, but to the want of talents or induftry on my part, A nation once celebrated in every quarter of the globe for its difcoveries and conqucfts, that abounds with the moft valuable mineral and vegetable productions, that carries on a trade of the greateft extent and importance, and poffeffes many of the moft valuable colonies in the world, muft furnifli an innumerable feries of objects for the a confider- vi PREFACE. confederation of the Hiftorian, the Naturalift, and Statesman. Leaving thefe momentous fubjects for the inveftigation of more enlightened travellers, I have contented myfelf with giving only fuch cafual remarks as came within the contracted fphere of my obfervation, and thefe I have thrown together with very little art or arrangement. Whether I have been more or lefs fuccefsful in noting or recording whatever occurred, than my predeceffors who have traverfed the fame ground, the public will beft determine. I fhall only obferve, that there is not an article in this work they have anticipated, nor a Plate with which it is embellifhed or illuftrated (except one *) has ever been engraved before, as far as my inquiry has extended. The extracts infer ted are chiefly from the Portuguefe writers, whofe names are mentioned, with very few exceptions ; and wherever any omiffion of that nature occurs, it happened through miftake or failure of memory, and not with a view to ufurp the merit of the author. When firft I collected thefe fragments, it was not with an intention to publifh them j but in order to obtain fome knowledge of the manners and cuftoms, the ancient and * The Plan of Lifbon. prefent PREFACE. prefent ftate of Portugal. My friends, however, at length intreated me to commit them to the prefs; affuring me that I would meet with the fame indulgence which artifls ufually claim, and generally receive from the public, whenever they attempt any literary performance. Encouraged by this circumftance, I have complied with their requeft, from a conviction of having faithfully re-prefented whatever came within my view, and correctly reported the fubjects that were verbally communicated to me. But at the fame time, not confidering myfelf as refponfible for the authenticity of fubjects thus collected ; fince I am but the humble organ through whom they are conveyed; and as a ftranger to the country, without an opportunity to compare, variety to furniili felection, or the means of inveftigating the truth by a number of collateral evidences. Having taken a review of the whole in arranging it for the prefs, I found many paffages that flood in need of emendation, and others that required to be purged of their exuberance or expunged; but thinking it might not be unacceptable to the reader to behold the irregular fallies of one unaccuftomed to write, I have fuftered them to remain unpruned, like fuperfluous branches fhooting from a ftock. a 2 As As it was principally through, the munificence of the Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, that I have been enabled to collect the materials of this work, as well as thofe relating to my defcription of the Royal Monaftery of Batalha, I feel it my indifpenfabie duty moft: gratefully to acknowledge the many obligations I owe to his conftant patronage and friendfhip. CONTENTS. RAVELS in Portugal, « page i f?/v - - "jo Prince Pedro, - - - - 59 Prince Henry, - - - - 61 .Dew John, - - 66 Ferdinandy - - • •ibid, ifr';^ Edward, - - » - 68 JT/V/g- /j&tf Second^ 69 Leiria, Marin ha Grande, - - * - jfe Account of the Manner of treating Bees in Portugal, - 85 x CONTENTS. Royal Monaflery of Alcoba^a, - - *' Page 88 Don Pedro and Dona Ignez de Caflro, - - 112 Lisbon, - - - - 131 Origin and Progrefs of Li/bon, - . - 134 On the prefent State of Lifbon, - - 145 Praca do Comer cio, - - - 149 Equefrian Statue of Jofepb i. - - 150 Cannon of Dio, *- - - - 154 Rofcio, - - - -156 Public Walks and Amufemcnts, ■ - - 157 The Patriarchal Church, - - - 161 An Account of the cflablijljed Annual Revenue of the Patriarchal Church, - - - - 163 An Account of the ordinary Annual Di/burfcme?tts of the Patriarchal Church, - ibid. Loretto, - - - - 166 Church of St. Roque, - - - 167 New Church, - . - 169 Cemetery of the Briti/h Faclory, - - 170 Epitaph to Henry Fielding, - - - 173 Royal Monafery of Belem, - - - 174 Bom-fucceffo, - - - - 176 The Jrifh Convent, - - - 177 Lifbon Aqueducl, - - - 179 Quantity of Butchers Meat fold at the Shambles of Lifbon in the Tear 1789, - - - 183 Charitable Infitutions, - - - 184 Obfervations on the Laws of Portugal, - - 187 Methuen Treaty, - - - 193 3 Trade CONTENTS. xi Lisbon. Trade of Portugal with Ireland, from March 1781 till March 1782, - - page lgs Obfervations on the Manners and Cujloms of Portugal, 196 Extracls from Meteorological Obfervations made at Lifbon in the Tears 1783, 1784, 1785, - - 220 Obfervations for 1781,' - - - 221 Number of Marriages, Births, and Deaths regijlcred at Lifbon in the Tears 1788 and 1789, - - 222 Of the Portuguefe Jews, - ibid. Father Lewis de Soufa, - - - 231 A Letter from the King of Melinda, to Emanuel King of Portugal, - 235 Cintra, - - - - - 241 Cork Convent, - - - 255 Defeription of Cintra, - - - 256 Penh a Verde, - - - - 257 Don John de Caflro, - - - 259 Sanfkreet Infeription, - - - 274 Memorandums of an Infcription in the Sanfkreet Language and Dcva-Nagaree Char abler. Tranflated by Charles Wilkins, Efq. - - - 279 Mafra, - 287 Setuval, - - - 290 Beja, - - 297 Evora, - - - 302 Aqueducl of i^. Sertorius, - - - 303 Temple of Diana, - - - 306 Charnel-Houfe, - - - - 309 DIRECTIONS to the BINDER for placing the PLATES. Plate I. A View of the Bntifh Faftory-houfe at Oporto, to face Page il jj. j± View of the Caravanfary of the Oaks, - -20 III. A View of the Church of Batalha, - - 36 IV. A general Plan of the City of Lifbon, - - - 130 V. A Reprefentation of the principal modern Streets of Lifbon, 148 VI. A View of the Cuftom Houfe and Royal Exchange at Lifbon, 150 VII. Arabic Infcriptions, - - - - 154 VIII. Roman Infcriptions, - - - - 184 IX. A Peafant of Alenteju—A Lifbon Fruit-woman—A Woman of Beira, - - - 202 X. A Portuguefe Merchant, with his Wife and Maid Servant, 204 XL The Fandango Dance, - - - 210 XII. View of an ancient Bath at Cintra, - - 246 XIII. A Copy of a Sanfkreet Infcription—-at Cintra, - - 278 XIV. Fragments of Roman Antiquities, found at Beja and Evora, 298 XV 7 XVI* 3 Ancient Infcriptions—at Beja, - 300 XVII. A View of the Aqueducl; of Q^Sertorius—at Evora, - 304 XVIII. A View of the Caftellum of Q^Sertorius—at Evora, - ibid. XIX. A View of the Temple of Diana—at Evora, - - 306 -fty I Ancient Infcriptions—at Evora, - - 308 XXII. One ancient and two modern Infcriptions—at Evora, - ibid. XXIII. An Arabic Infcription—at Evora, ibid. XXIV. An interior View of a Charnel-houfe—at Evora, - 310 ERRATA. Page 274. line 6. For the Dule de Bragnn^a read Don Qonjiant'mo de Broganca. 277. — 8. For renders read render. TRAVELS I N PORTUGAL. N the twenty-feventh of December, one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-eight, I failed from the port of Dublin, on board a trading veffel bound to Oporto. On the morning of the feventeenth day after our departure, we defcried the mountains of Vianna, which rife at the Northern extremity of Portugal. A few miles to the South of thefe mountains, appeared Villa do Conde , here our Captain pointed to a ferics of arches, the remains of an ancient aqueducl:; the number we could not ascertain with the motion of the fhip, but the Captain aflured us that they exceeded three hundred, and their apparent extent feemed to juftify the affertion. On the evening of the fame day, we approached the bar of Oporto, and made the ufiial fignal for a pilot. An B eight- eight-oared barge, equipped with a white and black crew, foon arrived, with two commiffioned pilots, who informed us, much to our regret, that we muft put to fea till the next day, as it was too late to pafs the bar. In the mean time, a heavy gale arofe which fwelled the fea mountain-high. One of the pilots who continued on board, feeing the ftorm increafe, conducted us to the bar early the following morning, when feveral boat-men came to our affiftance. Nature has aim oft cut off all communication between this city and the fea; the channel, in fome parts, being not more than double the breadth of a fhip, and fo full of windings, that it requires the utmoft fkill to pafs it with fafety, even in a calm day, but in a tempeft like this, the fcene is tremendous, and called forth the united efforts of the crew, to obviate the danger of the rocks, fands, and waves, which oppofed our entrance. The river Douro alfo increafed the difficulty, as it now ran with the velocity of nine miles an hour, in confe-quence of being fwelled beyond its ufual bounds by a fucceffion of rainy days. It is eafier to conceive than de-fcribe the conflict which enfued between this current and the waves of the Atlantic, as they met in a narrow channel at the mouth of the river. About five in the evening, we paffed this Charybdis, with only the lofs of an anchor, and arrived oppofite to a convent vent belonging to the order of Saint Anthony, about a mile up the river. A fhip from Greenock, i» attempting to follow our example, was dafhed to pieces almoft in our view, but fortunately the hands were faved, though with much difficulty. 'The River Douro. The Southern banks of the Douro^ as far as the eye can reach, is diverfified with convents, and villas, the oc-cafional retreat of the wealthier citizens. The groves and gardens that accompany them have a charming effect on the eye of a Northern vifitant, as the ravages of Winter have not ftripped them of their verdant foliage. The orange-tree, which may be juftly confidered as the emblem of gratitude, here furpaffed in beauty all the reft; " Flowers and fruits at once fhe fhewed, " And as fhe paid, difcovered frill fhe owed." The beauty of the profpect, and the ferenity of the air, when compared to the naked trees and piercing winds of the country from which we had lately departed, rendered the tranfition enchanting. The Douro is the largeft river in Portugal, except the Tagus ; it takes its rife near Soria, in Old Caftile, and having traverfed a tract of about an hundred and twenty leagues, is loft in the Weftern Ocean. As it approaches the fea, it winds its courfe in a vale formed by two im- b 2 menfe menfe and oppofite mountains, where it is of depth fuf~ ficient for the largeft trading vefiels to anchor along the banks on either fide. During three days the rapidity of the current prevented our receiving the cuitomary vifits, without which none dare attempt to go afhorc, under pain of imprifonment. The object of thefe vifits is twofold, the one to fearch for contraband goods, the other to examine and report the ftate of the paffengers health. On the evening of the fourth day, three officers came aboard, accompanied by an interpreter, who, in the lofty tone of authority, commanded thofe who had either tobacco or foap * in his pofleffion, to bring forth the fame: his mandate was immediately obeyed; but as the Captain was aware of the laws of the country, he fuffered no prohibited goods on board, except a fmall quantity of the above articles for private ufe, and thefe were not feized* We muft declare, in juftice to thefe officers, that they performed their duty with fo much politenefs, that it carried more the appearance of a friendly vifit than an official fearch. Thofe who have witneffed the vifits of Britifh cuftom-houfe officers, upon fimilar occafions, will fcarcely believe that fo much urbanity exifts among men of that clafs. The late Marquis de Pombal, on his arrival as am-baffador to the Britifh court, was fo rudely treated by a group of thefe gentry, that it. impreffed him, ever after, * The importation of thefe articles is prohibited even in the fmallefl quantity. with with an unfavourable idea of the execution of the revenue laws of this country. And it is generally fuppofed, that this circum(lance alone operated as the caufe of the regulations which he afterwards eftablifhed relative to the wine-trade of Oporto, regtilations not very friendly to the intereft of the Britifh factory of that city. After the vifitation of the above officers, we were in expectation of that of the phyfician ; but as his perfonal attendance was prevented by indifpofition, he difpatched a certain deputy to fupply his place. This illegitimate fon of Efculapius commanded every perfon on board to appear on the deck, whilft he furveyed them from the oppofite fhore, at the diftance of about two hundred yards; and indeed I could not help furveying him from head to foot, for fo curious a figure in the medical line never ftruck my fight before. To judge of his talents by his drefs, (the modern criterion of merit,) little was to be expected, for he appeared to defpife all the formal trappings of the faculty, fuch as the fable drapery, the broad-brimmed beaver, the full-bottomed wig, &c. his drefs was rather convenient than otherwife, it confifted of a red cap, a blue jacket fomewhat lacerated at the elbows,---. Having confidered a few minutes, he took a pinch of fnuff, then nodding his head, pronounced a few words to this effect: I certify that ye are all in good health. Whether he derived his information from intuition, or from the penetration of the vifual organs, or whether it happened merely 3 from from chance, he certainly pronounced a verdict which even Hippocrates could not refute. Oporto. On the evening of the eighteenth of January, one thou-fand feven hundred and eighty-nine, the paflengers, con-fifting of two ftudents, appointed for the univerfity of Salamanca, and myfelf, were conducted to Oporto, and recommended to an Englifh tavern, where we took up our relidence. The firfl thing that ftrikes the mind of a ftranger, on his arrival here, is the devout appearance of the inhabitants. Religion fcems to be their only purfuit. The clattering of bells, the buttling of proceffions, and the ejaculations of friars, engage the attention by day, whilft every part refounds by night with the chaunting of hymns. Oporto is the fecond city in Portugal, in point of extent, population, and trade. It is feated about a league and a half from the fea, upon the declivity of a hill, on the North fide of the river Douro. The houfes rife gradually one above another, like the feats of a theatre. The ma-jeftic river which flows in the vale, covered with fhips and boats, may be compared to a ftage, on which, thoufands of actors are feen daily engaged in the bufy drama of trade. On the oppofite fide, we behold an immenfe mountain, which terminates the profpect, and prefents this commercial commercial theatre with a fcene highly picturefque, con-fifting of gardens, villas, convents, wine-fiores, 6cc. all in the moft natural ftyle of perfpe&ive and colouring. According to fome antiquaries, the name of this city is derived from Calle, the title by which the Romans diftinguifhed it, According to others, it is derived from the name of the founder, fuppofed to be Getelus, the fon of Cecrops king of Attica, after whom it was called Partus GeteluSy and hence they deduce the word Portu-gal. But the name of the kingdom, as Andrew Refendius, a man of great learning, makes it appear, is derived from the haven or port of Gale, formerly a little obfcure place, fituated upon a rifing ground on the river Douro. The harbour was at flrft reforted to upon the account of riffling, and being found very convenient for that purpofe, numbers of people flocked from all parts and fettled there, lit time, it became a rich and populous city, and was called Portugal, a name which has fince extended to the whole kingdom. This was the opinion of Oforio, and alfo of Camoens, as appears by the following lines: In that proud port half-circled by the wave. Which Portugallia to the nation gave. Mickles Lujiad, b.vL As we have {hewn the reafon antiquaries affign for the kingdom's being called Portugal, it may not be improper to obferve, that, as it includes a great part of ancient Lu- 5 Jitania% fitania, fo it is often diftinguifhed by that name alfo. We (hall therefore, in the courfe of this work, ufe the names Portugal and Lufitania promifcuoufly, as all the writers of that country have done. Oporto, in common with moft ancient cities, has the ■defeas of being narrow, and fo irregularly difpofed, that there is fcarcely a houfe in it with four right angles. Hence, a ftranger would be led to fuppofe, that the forty-feventh propofition of the firft book of Euclid had not yet found its way thither. The corner-houfes of the ftreets in genera], being obliquely difpofed, render the adjoining houfes of the fame figure, as every one follows the crooked plan of his next neighbour. Thus all become rhomboids and trapeziums, defects which at firft might have been avoided by relinquifhing a little ground ; but there are very few in commercial cities, who would facrifice a few feet of their property, even for what Pythagoras facrificed a hecatomb. Many of the ftreets are fo fteep, that a man may be faid rather to climb than walk them. But this defect is compenfated by their cleanlinefs, which they owe more to nature than police ; for as often as it rains, the floods of the adjoining mountains rufh down in torrents, and fweep away all the impurities of the town. Lamps have not yet been introduced in the ftreets, except thofe which are placed at the Sacraria of the Madonas. The The houfes, when viewed at a moderate diftance, have a clean agreeable appearance, owing to the colour of the materials, the lownefs of the roofs, and their not being disfigured by a multiplicity of chimnies, thofe vehicles of dirt, which make fo confpicuous an appearance in the buildings of Northern climates. Here no apartment is furnifhed with a fire-place but the kitchen, and this is ufually placed in the attic ftory. The churches are large, ftrong, and magnificent buildings, but totally devoid of every thing that conftitutes fcientific architecture: theirs is of a fpecies between the Teutonic and Tufcan. The materials of which they are formed are excellent, and the mafonry-part not without merit. It is fcarcely credible what riches are lavifhed on the inflde of them; the altar-pieces, baldachins, &c. however defective in deflgn, exhibit a profusion of gilding. Gold is certainly a very effectual thing to conceal the want of art or fcience, or--—. And yet the Portuguefe have fome artifts not devoid of merit, but unfortunately they are not encouraged. I knew a painter here named Glama, who would do credit to any fchool in Europe, had he incitement to call forth the latent powers that were imprifoned within him : he was a native of Portugal, and had ftudied many years in Italy, where he acquired a corre&nefs of drawing, and a chaftenefs of colouring, that indicated uncommon talents. Notwithstanding, he afiured me that he could fcarcely eke out a miferable- q pittance, pittance, though he painted every thing that was offered to him, from the fign-poft to the apoftle. A lady who refided many years at Oporto, relates the following anecdote of a rich merchant of that city, who intended to embellifh his apartments with paintings: for this purpofe he applied to Signor Glama, who happened then to have fome valuable ancient pictures in his poffefTion, which he was commifiioned to fell at a very moderate price • but the merchant, who was a better judge of the produce of the grape than of the pencil, ftarted with furprife when he demanded twenty moidores for a Corregio, and faid, " That he had lately bought two new " pictures of larger dimenfions for the fame money I" Signor Glama was one of the artifts employed by the Right Honourable William Burton Conyngham, when on his travels through Portugal, in making drawings and fketches of antiquities, &c. which may be feen among this gentleman's valuable collection of papers relating to Portugal. The General Hofpital, if completed, would be the largeft building in Oporto. The principal front was intended to confift of an hexaftyle portico in the Doric order, with a pavilion on each fide. Although it is upwards of twenty years fince the foundation of this ftruc-ture was laid, there is yet but a wing of one of the pavi- 6 lions lions covered in ; the reft is raifed but a few feet above the furface, and is likely to remain in this ftate, a magnificent modern ruin, and a lafting monument of the folly of not proportioning the defign to the public purfe. The fite is of all others, perhaps, the moft ineligible for ceco-nomy, on account of the inequality of the ground, a cir-cumftance which obliged the architect: to build walls in the flanks, as marly as the famous wall which feparates China from Tartary. Towards the North Weft part of the city, upon an eminence, is fituated the barrack ; it confifts of three files of fmall but clean apartments, of about ten feet in height; oppofite to it, is an extenfive parade. The whole is en-compaffed by a wall, and is fuppofed to contain about five hundred infantry. On entering the gate, it is cuftomary to falute the centmel. Deferters are generally punifhed, not with ftripes, but with fervile labour; we met half-a-dozen of thefe victims chained in pairs, carrying provifion on their bach, which to a Portuguefe is a mark of the greateft ignominy; for, according to their generous fenti-ments, that part of the human frame, which is never to be feen by the enemy, is not to be degraded by any fervile oppreffion; hence, even the pooreft peafant is always found to carry his load, either in his hands, or on his head. The annexed plate exhibits a view of a building which is nearly completed, and intended principally for the ufe c 2 of of the Britifh factory. The ground-ftory is to be the Exchange; the next (over the mezzanine) the Ball-room, which is fifty-five feet long by thirty broad, and has two tier of windows in the front. The whole is carried on from the defigns of William Whitehead efq. the Britifh conful. Over the center acrotoire, on the top of the building, is to be placed a ftatue, on the fubject of which the factory have not yet decided, and in all probability will not for fome time, as artifts are generally the laft who are confulted here on thefe occafions. We fhould fuppofe, that in a commercial edifice like this, taking the country into confideration, a ftatue of Prince Henry, the Pharaoh of navigation and the fource of commerce, would not be unfuitable. He is generally reprefented as holding a globe in one hand, a chart in the other, and his motto on the pedeftal Talent de bien faire. The ingenious architect has filled four pages in folio with calculations, which ran to quadratick equations, in demonftrating how much the intended ftatue fhould incline forward, fo as to appear perfectly erect to a fpectator viewing it from the oppofite fide of the ftreet. Hiftory does not inform us, that Phidias required the affiftance of algebra in decorating Athens with his graceful ftatues. On the South fide of the town, near the verge of the river, is an extenfive building called the Serray perched upon the brow of a lofty precipice. Its form and fitua-tion convey the idea of a barrack; and indeed I almoft; 5 concluded 5220 30 concluded it was fome military ftructure, upon feeing a number of flags difplayed from the windows : on inquiry, however, I found it was a convent belonging to the order of friars called the Cruzes, who this day difplayed their enflgns, in honour of their patron faint. My guide pointed to one of the fathers, drefled in a black cloak and ilouched hat; he was mounted on a mule, according to the rules of his community, which ordain, that they muft not be feen outfide of the boundaries of the convent on foot. Each friar, therefore, is equipped in that manner j fo that they form, as it were, a fort of cavalry to the ecclefiaftick corps, and are, in general, richer and more refpedted, or at leaft would be thought fo, than the eccleflaftick infantry. Among the commercial fabrics, the wine-ftores claim the firft rank, after the cuftom-houfe, in point of fize. One of them, belonging to Mr. Warre, a Britifh merchant, is an hundred and forty feet long by ninety broad. The infide is divided into three corridores, by two feries of ftone piers, extending from the one end to the other. Between thefe piers, and next the walls, are placed the wine pipes, two in height. Several coopers and labourers are daily employed in preparing the wine for exportation. We were fhewn here a fort of white wine, the produce of the province, which is fo influenced by the weather, that when it rains it becomes muddy and unfit for ufe. The following reeipe, I am informed, is fometimes ufed by the merchants of Portugal for correcting four wine. Fixed alkali, or fait of tartar, put into four wine, will abforb the acidity, and give it the tafte and fmell of new wine. Too much alkali will turn it black and muddy ; in order to avoid this defect, a quantity of the acid liquor is mixed with the alkali before it is applied. In order to give the reader an idea of the annual exports of this city, it may not be uninterefting to annex the following ftate of the fame in the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine : 3£,6oo Pipes of wine, fhipped to various parts of Europe and America. .4,989,000 Varas* of linen cloth, the greater part of which was fent to America, .40,000 Varas of ftuff, fent to Brazil and Lifbon. 92,000 Covados f of woollen cloth, baize, &c. manufactured at Oporto nnd its diftrict. 110,000 Dozen of various pieces of pottery. 8,500 Pipes of oil, part of which was fent to Brazil. 10,500 Cherts of Brazil fugar. 56,000 Arrobas % of fumach, tartar, potter's lamina, lemon-peels, and cork. * Vara, A menfure nenrly equal to a yard. \ Covaih, A me-.ifure which contains three quarters of a yard, or a Flemifh ell. -j- Avrcbity A weight of thirty-two pounds in Portugal. i,20o 1,200 Styhitals * of bay-berries. 9,000,000 Sweet and four oranges. 8,000 Lemons. 500,000 Varas of lace, and other ornamental manufactures; fent to Brazil. 150,000 Covados of filk, manufactured at Oporto and its diftri&s; fent to Brazil. Refpecting the manners of the inhabitants of Oporto, my fhort refidence in this city has enabled me to form * but a fuperflcial idea, efpecially of the females, who are feldom obferved out of doors, except in going to, or returning from church, a place they ufually vifit twice a-day; and then the face is veiled, or half-concealed beneath the folds of a black mantle. The few that I have feen un-mafked, had a pale complexion, black fparkling eyes, and a countenance replete with fimplicity. In ftature they are rather low, but of a pleating figure, their walk and deportment are eafy and graceful. The men are well-proportioned, rather low than tall, have a brown complexion, and referved countenance. They are polite to ftrangers, and refpectful to each other; even the pooreft people are treated by their fuperiors with civility. Their drefs in Winter is rather warm than elegant; a large capote covers all but the feet, and a part of the head. * Quintal) A weight containing four arrol.xs, or 128ft. The labourers chiefly employed here are natives of Ga-licia, a province of Spain ; hence they are called Ga/egos. Their number is computed at eight thoufand in Oporto alone, and the whole kingdom is thought to contain not lefs than fifty thoufand of thefe induftrious adventurers. If this ftatement be correct, (and I do not give it on light authority,) and that each man lays up, on an average, eighteen pence per week, then the moft profitable trade of Portugal is carried on by the Galicians; for their favings, according to this calculation, amount to one hundred and ninety-five thoufand pounds per annum, which they carry to their own country. Thofe who have witnefled their manner of living, will admit that the fum is ftated rather below than above the truth; for they are the moft oeco-nomic people in the world. They are fed gratuitoufly at the gates of the convents, lodged in cellars, (tables, or cloifters, and clothed in rags, in which they yfually repofe, Yet many of them poiTefs lands and houfes in their own country, whither they return at ftated periods to divide their hard-earned pittance with their families; and finally retire, as foon as they have made fufficient to live independent of labour, to fpend the evening of life in the fimple enjoyment of domeftic felicity. To the honour of this induftrious race we fhould not forget to mention, that the allurements of gain have rarely been known to betray any of them to commit a difhoneft action, Here Here I took leave of my fellow-pafTengers, highly pleafed with the civility of our hoftefs, who was a good friendly old woman, though reputed for railing her voice at times; but as this proceeded more from neceffity than choice, it was excufable in a folitary widow like her, contending with adverfity at an age when others link into reft. Her tongue was the weapon fhe generally appealed to whenever {he thought her rights invaded, and the only weapon fuch a feeble creature was capable of wielding. We afked her why (he did not return to her native country ; " Ah ! (faid fhe) that country is too cold for one that has " been fo long accuftomed to this ; but at all events, I 11 fhall return thither three months before I die, in order *c to leave my bones in old England," A Journal of feven Days Journey from Oporto to Batalha. January 23. I fct out for Batalha in a fmall chaife, accompanied by a Portuguefe youth going to Lifbon to be educated for the church. This youth was recommended to my attention by his guardian, an aged prieft, who, though in no wife related to him, maintained and educated him from his infancy, when death deprived him of his parents. The friendly manner in which he embraced him at our departure, and the tendernefs he ex-preffed for him by his tears, impreiled me with a high D opinion opinion of the humanity of thofe people, and recommended this worthy priefVs fanctity and humanity, more than his rofary and reverential habit. As foon as we croffed the Douro, we were joined by three other carriages returning to Lifbon 3 two of them were empty, the other was engaged by a gentleman from the province of Minho. This gentleman has been my topographer on the road ; and I fear that the names of fome places, not to be found in the Portuguefe maps, partake of the corrupt orthography of his province, wherein they fpeak a dialed" between the Portuguefe and the Spanifh languages. We were alfo accompanied, in the firft day's journey, by four Galician labourers, employed by the muleteers for the purpofe of affifting them in refcuing their vehicles and mules from the obftructions that lay in the way. It is extraordinary, that fo near the fecond city in the kingdom, there is not a perch of what we fhould call a road; fome efforts, it is true, have been made to form one, but fo ill contrived, that the firft torrent has fwept the greater part of it away. We fhould not have been able to proceed without the aid of thefe labourers, as the mules were every moment tumbling, or embarraffed in the mud, where they mud have remained but for the united efforts of the company. At four o'clock in the afternoon we reached Dos Carvalhos in a miferable plight; mules and muleteers, Galicians and pafTengers, all in the fame livery, befpattered from head to foot. I EJlalagem Eflalagem dos Carvalhos, or the Caravanfary of the Oaks, diftant about one league from Oporto, which we left at nine o'clock in the morning, clofed this day's ftage. Whilft dinner was preparing, I took a furvey of this exten-five Caravanfary, and fketched the view of the fame hereunto annexed, (Plate II.) It contains, befides a number of unfurnifhed apartments, offices for cattle, implements of hufbandry, &c. The moft commodious part of the whole is the ftablc \ but the kitchen appeared to be the moft entertaining ; about the center of it is a circular eftrade, raifed about fourteen inches above the floor, on which the fire was placed, and feveral earthen pots refting upon tripods. Here all aflembled to fpend the evening. Pricfts, pilgrims, gentlemen, muleteers, and beggars, without dif-tincldon, fat round this blazing orb, in focial intercourfe ; one clafs chaunting vefpers, another reciting rofaries, a third recounting miraculous tales of provincial faints, whilft, at intervals, a well-timed joke ftole round, which relaxed even the brow of devotion, and fet the circle on a roar. When fupper was ready, the motley fociety flit down as promifcuoufly as before, to a table covered with fimples, that would fuit the palate of an Epicletus. This table was placed in a hall, the door of which was feldom clofed by day or night; every one had free accefs to it, the poor might enter as freely as the rich, and when once entered, all the imaginary diffractions which feparate man from D 2 Ins his fellow-being vanifhed. The grave is not a greater enemy to diftinctions, than the Caravanfary dos Car-valhos ! January 24. Here our Galicians configned us to our fate, and returned to Oporto. At five in the morning we continued our journey, amidft inceffant rain, to St. Antonio da Rafana, where we took up our lodging for the night. Our repair, which included dinner and flipper, confifted of bread, wine, dried fifh, and oil; the latter I did not tafte, as I faw the cruet replenifhed from the lamp. A Portuguefe gentleman who fat next me, cried in broken Englifh, " This is bad fare, Sir, but you Lifbon, founded by him in teftimony of his joy for the difcovery of India; in confequcnce of which, this work has fince remained in that neglected ftate; The fides of the octagon, except the one at the entrance, are finifhed with arches leading to as many chapels, each diflinguifhed by the devices of the princes for whom they were intended. The pious Leanor, in one of them deftined for the fepulture of herfelf and the king her confort, has introduced her own maternal device; that is, the pelican in the act of piercing its breaft. Indeed, it is much to be regretted, that a fabrick which redounds fo much to the honour of human ingenuity, fhould remain in fuch a ftate of neglect. If we may be allowed to judge from what is already done of it, had not the death of the above princefs prevented its completion, the modern world would have to boaft of a Maufoleum, in magnitude and conftruction not inferior to the celebrated Maufoleum of the ancients * ; and the memory of Leanor would be tranfmitted down to pofterity with as much applaufe as that of Artemifia. The latter, although fhe lived but two years after the foundation of her Maufoleum, yet her furvivors, out of refpect and gratitude to the memory of fo afTec- * Sec Pliny, b.xxxvi. c. 5 & 13. Fifcher's figns of tins Edifice in the Defcription of Hiftorical Arch. Tav. vi. See alfo my De- Batalha. g 2 donate tionate a princefs, who made a living fepulchre of herfelf, by imbibing her hufband's allies, did not defift till they finifhed her defign. Had the furvivors of the Chriftian princefs pofTelTed fo much gratitude or generofity, Batalha, in point of architecture, would not be inferior to ancient Halicarnaffus. And even in its prefent ftate, were it not buried in an obfcure part of Portugal, it may be faid of it, as the Jews have recorded of the fepulchre of Simon Maccabeus, that it was never without vifitors to admire it. According to the account of thofe who are fuppofed to have had their information from the records preferved in the Royal Archives of Lifbon, the name of the architect of the church was Stephen Stephenfon, a native of England. But the Fathers Cacegas and De Sulfa, who have written the Hiflory of Batalha with great accuracy, are filent on this head. They inform us, that the King, de-firous of building a monaftery fuperior to any in Europe, invited from diftant countries the moft celebrated architects that could be found. Now, as Gothic architecture at that time flourifhed in England, it is not improbable that fome of its artifts might have embraced the invitation of fo liberal a Prince, efpecially as his confort, Queen Philipfa, a Princefs endowed with many amiable qualities, was the eldeft daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter, fon of Edward the Third. The eftablifhment of the Monaftery is as follows • viz. twenty-five mafs-friars of the Dominican order, four no-vices, two tonfures, and thirteen lay-brothers. They are governed by four prelates; to wit, a prior or fuperior, a mailer of novices, a vicar, and a chief confeffor. The other dignitaries are as follow ; viz. the three profefibrs, who are appointed to teach feculars, reading, writing, and grammar; the precentor, the facrift, the infpedor of the corn ftores, the fuperintendant of the kitchen, the hof-tilarius, and the two treafurers. There are fourteen fer-vants, pits* a cook, who is paid four thoufand eight hundred reis * per year, with board and lodging; two carmen, at four moidores f per year without board ; a fhepherd and a hogherd, each at fix hundred reis and four alqueires % of Turkey corn per month ; and two fervants to attend the choir, thefe have no fixed falary. The others are the baker, fhoemaker, laundrefs, and muleteers. The annual revenue is computed at ten or twelve thoufand crufades §, of which feven thoufand are expended on the maintenance of the friars; befides, each is allowed four thoufand eight hundred reis a year for clothing. Of the remainder there are four hundred milrees || applied in cultivating their lands. The furplus, after paying fer- * Ten reis are equal to \l of a penny, three quarts and one pint. Vieyras DiB, I A tnoidore is worth l/. ys. § A crufade is worth 2/. 3d. % An alqueire, I believe, holds one peck || A milree is valued at 5 s. y^d. vants vants hire, is expended in repairs and other contingencies. During a refidence of thirteen weeks in this abode of peace and hofpitality, I experienced every politenefs and attention from the fathers, who, in every refpect confift-ently with the duties of their order, practife the virtuous precepts of their facred religion. In their mode of living there appears nothing to envy, but a great deal to admire and commend; they eat but twice in the four-and-twenty hours, dine at eleven o'clock, and fup at tight. The daily allowance of each is two fmall loaves, one potuid and a quarter of meat, the fame quantity of iifh, befides foup, rice, wine, and fruit: a great part of this is diftributed among the poor. The rules of their order they obferve with the moft fcrupulous rigidity; they are muftered every morning in Winter at day-break, and in Summer at five o'clock, then each brings a vafe full of water from the fountain, towafhin, before he enters the choir. Their cleanlinefs,' regularity, and exemption from the anxieties of the world, contribute to preferve their health and faculties unimpaired to a very old age. And, notwithftanding the bodily infirmities which phyficians afcribe to a ftate of inactive life, every father in the convent exhibited a pleafing exception to this maxim; for I could not difcern one drooping with the weight of years, or who had loft a tooth, or who had an eye dimmed with with defluxion, though fome of them had attained to the age of ninety and upwards. Such is the wife difpenfation of Providence, that thofe men who have voluntarily fe-eluded themfelves from the mingled cares and enjoyments of the world, are compenfated, even on this fide of the grave, by a long and ferene evening of old age, free from the infirmities, difappointments, and painful reflections, which embitter the expiring days of the libertine and incon-liderate. On the nineteenth of March, a French pilgrim, who filled himfelf Vifcount Clarardc, vifited the convent. The Prior received him with every mark of refpect and civility due to the high rank he affumcd: during three days he tarried with us, and greatly recommended himfelf by the agreeablenefs of his manners. His age might be about thirty; lie was of a middle ftature, had fhort black hair, and a countenance which betrayed more of the levity of a rambler, than of the piety of a pilgrim. He was drcfTed in a long grey coat, a tawdry laced waiftcoat, and a flouchcd hat, mounted with a rufty cockade. A fable fcapulet of oil-cloth, ftudded with variegated fhclls, adorned his fhouldcrs. From his neck and girdle were fufpended rofaries of different fizes, together with a tin cafe and a pouch. A lufly fellow, juft deferted from the French fervice, attended this pilgrim, and carried his baggage in a fhcep- fkin • fkin wallet. He was now about to defert from his mailer s fervice, in confequence of the feverity of his difcipline ; for as the Count conceived him to be a greater finner than himfelf, he oftener applied the knotty cordon of St. Francis to his moulders than his own : the Prior, however, fo far accommodated matters, that they departed in peace. There are fome particulars which, however trifling in themfelves, fometimes make as lafting an impreflion on the mind as objects of greater magnitude, at leaft the few that I am about to offer have had that effect on me. The parental tendernefs which poets and naturalifts have afcribed to the ftork, I had the fatisfaction of contemplating at this place : one of thefe birds, with its affectionate mate, has refided for ages in a large neft curioufly formed on the calceolus foliage which crowns the fpire of the church. As Solomon fent the iluggard to the ant to learn induftry, fo the difobedient child would learn examples of filial piety from the numerous progeny of this connubial pair. The lathers and the people of the village would deem it little lefs than facrilege to moleft them ; and indeed their humane protection is amply repaid by the ferviecs they render the country in destroying ferpents, lizards, and other obnoxious reptiles. In the village there lived a little male idiot, who came each day to the cloifter to practife his favourite amufe-5 ment, ment, from which he could fcarcely be drawn to fatisfy hunger or thiril:- This amufement confifted in an endlefs emulation between his toes for precedency ; as he moved forward one foot, the other, as if jealous of being left behind, immediately advanced., and thus he moved on from morning till night. This is the firft place in which I had heard the warblings of the nightingale. The little fongfter poured his plaintive ftrains each night from a branch that fhaded the window of my cell, and all Nature liftened to the fong, except the bittern *, whofe loud and incefTant fcreams lull the mind into fympathetic meditation. Before we take leave of this Monaftery, we muft re-queft the reader's indulgence, while we attempt to give a brief account of fome of the moft remarkable characters who are interred therein. In the center of the Founder's chapel is an infulated fepulchre, with two cumbent effigies of white marble, the fize of life. Thefe effigies reprefent the King and Queen ; the former is dreffed in a complete fuit of armour, the latter in a long flowing robe, the graceful habit of the age ; the head of each is dignified with a low open crown, beneath a triple canopy of curious workmanlhip, in the Gothic manner. * The bittern is a fpecies of bird that lives by fu&ion in marfliy grounds. 1! The The memorable tranfactions of thofe royal perfonages are preferved in Latin infcriptions, finely fculptured in black characters on the fides of the monument, together with the mottos and emblems adopted by the King, expreflive of his extraordinary atchievements. King John the Firft. The reign of this Monarch is allowed by Hiftorians to have formed a brilliant epoch in the Hiftory of Portugal. He was the natural fon of Don Pedro, furnamed the Juft, by Dona Tereza Lorenza, a Galician lady. He was born at Lifbon in the year one thoufand three hundred and fifty-feven, and at the age of feven was prefented for the firft time to the King his father, who knighted him, and made him Mafter of the Order of Avis, agreeably to his preceptor's requeft. This honour was conferred on him in a convent of the fame order, wherein he purfued his ftudies, and, happy for the nation, received a moft excellent education, which fo improved his ftrong natural talents, that he became one of the politeft fcholars, as well as the greateft ftatefman and monarch, of his age. At the death of Ferdinand his brother, who fucceeded his father on the throne, the King of Caftile laid claim to the crown of Portugal in right of his wife. At this a general general difcontent fpread throughout the kingdom, which was then governed by the Queen, a vvorthlefs intriguing woman. Don John alfo afferted his right to the fucceffion; but on being rejected, he refolved to depart for England. This being rumoured throughout Lifbon, the populace furrounded him and prefTed him to ftay, to protect them againft the threatened power of Caftile. Lie confented with apparent reluctance. The nobility were fummoned to meet at the Town-houfe, to take into consideration the expediency of electing him Protector. As foon as they ahembled, a cooper rufhed into the midft of them, and drawing his fword, threatened any who dared refufe his confent with death. Thus was Don John proclaimed Protector by the multitude, though in opposition to the fenfe of the majority of the nobles. The prudent ufe, however, he made of power, foon gained him great reputation. Enabled by a liberal education, and a difcerning mind, to difcriminate the abilities of men; he made choice of his counfellors folely for their talents and virtues, regardlefs of every consideration of birth or title. In order to increafe his popularity, he caufed the property of thofe who fled the kingdom, or declared in favour of Castile, to be conflfcated, and distributed among his own adherents. And to conciliate thofe who had h 2 hitherto hitherto oppofed his meafures, he promulged a general pardon for all paft offences, treafon excepted; not conceiving, fays Faria, that to fupport him, was the greateft of all treafons. A few months after he was elected protector, the King of Caftile with a numerous force entered Portugal. Al-moft every part at his approach furrendered, and acknowledged him as lawful fovereign. Having arrived before Lifbon, he inverted it for the fpace of five months; but a plague which raged among his army, obliged him to raife the fiege, and depart. Immediately after, the Protector was proclaimed King, in the twenty-eighth year of his age, and received in every part of the kingdom with demonstrations of joy. The retreat of the Caftilians, however, gave the new King but afhort rcpofe in the enjoyment of his crown; for they foon recruited their armies, and re-entered Portugal with all the forces of their kingdom. Don John, understanding the approach of the enemy, drew together his troops from Coimbra, Oporto, &c. and marched out of Guimaraens to give him battle. On the morning of the fourteenth of Auguft one thoufand three hundred and eighty-five, he entered the plains of Alju-barrota, where he knighted feveral gentlemen. The Caftilians tilians at firft intended to march directly to Lifbon, yet, after fome confutation, they refolved to engage. The forces on both fides were very unequal; the Caftilians are reported to have been thirty-three thoufand ftrong, and the Portuguefe but fix thoufand five hundred; be-fides, the latter had fome local di fad vantages. The Sun was fetting when thefe two unequal armies engaged; the Caftilians at the firft charge broke the Portuguefe van-guard, but the King coming up, with his voice and example fo animated his men, that in lefs than an hour the multitudinous enemy was put to the rout. The King of Caftile, who headed his troops, being afflicted with an ague, was forced to fave himfelf by flight *. Moft of the Portuguefe who fided with Caftile, and were in front of the army, were put to the fword. The royal ftandard of Caftile was taken, but many pretending to the honour, it could not be decided by whom. Of the number of the flain no exact account is preferved, but it * Don LaurenzOi Archbifhop of Braga, who, according to Cajlera> (the French Commentator of the Lufiad,) fought at the above battle, gives the following account, of the King of Caftile's chagrin after his defeat, in a letter written in old Portuguefe, to the Abbot of Alcobac,;* : " The Con (table hath informed me, that x he faw the King of Caftile at Santerem, ;* who behaved as a madman, curling his ;< exiftence and tearing his heard. And in ;* troth, my good friend, it is better he '* fhould do fo to himfelf than to us,; the w man who thus plucks his own beard, « would be much better pleafed to do fo " unto others." is is reported to have been very great on the part of the Caftilians; three thoufand of their cavalry are fuppofed to have periihed, among whom were many perfons of diftinction. This is the famous battle of 'Aljubarrota ; fo called becaufe it was fought near a village of that name: and in confequence of which the Royal Monaftery of Batalha was founded, agreeably to a vow made by the King, importing, that in gratitude to Lleaven he would build a magnificent Convent, if Providence on that day crowned his arms with fuccefs. In confequence of this important victory, Don John was fixed on his throne; yet he loft no time in putting the kingdom in fuch a ftate of defence, that in future he fhould have nothing to fear from the power of his rival. Hitherto he only acted on the defensive, but now he refolved to afTail the enemy in his own country ; and the better to fucceed in his enterprife, he prevailed on the Duke of Lancaster to embrace this opportunity of enforcing his title to the crown of Castile, to which he pretended to have had a legal title, in virtue of Constance his lady. Accordingly the Duke landed at Gallicia, with two thoufand cavalry, and three thoufand archers. His two daughters, celebrated for their beauty and accomplifh-ments, accompanied him. The elder, named Philippa, was 3 married married to the King of Portugal, and Catherine, the younger, to the King of Castile's eldeft fon. In confequence of which, hoftilities ceafed between all parties, and the Duke returned to England. A period of fix-and-twenty years had elapfed without hostility between the two rival Powers; during which time, the happinefs of his people, and the inftruction of his children, folely occupied the attention of Don John. Convinced of the fuperiority which he himfelf derived from a liberal education, he refolved that his fons fhould inherit a similar advantage, and hence he became their preceptor. Of the effects of his instruction, the annals not only of Portugal, but of all Europe, bear teftimony. He had the felicity to live to fee them attain the age of maturity, unrivalled in every manly accomplishment. To one of them, named Henry, the world is indebted at this day for the fource of all the modern difcoveries in navigation. But of this hereafter. The victorious King John at length overcome with age yielded to the ftroke of Fate, in his feventy-fixth year, and the forty-eighth of his reign. No prince was ever bleffed with more domestic happinefs, or more beloved by his people. He was a deep politician, a bold commander, kind to his friends, and haughty to his enemies. It is true, he raifed himfelf to the throne by many acts of cruelty, difgraceful to human nature; acts which no virtuous tuous man would perpetrate for ah empire; yet when he obtained the object of his ambition, he fupported his power, not by tyranny, but by the cxercife of thofe virtues which constitute the happinefs of a people. At times, however, he had recourfe to feverity *, when the affuaging and popular arts, in which he was eminently fkilled, proved ineffectual. The free and affable manner in which he received all men, gained him many friends; for he pretended not to affect the pride of a monarch, though he never funk below the dignity of one. The nobility dined every day at his table, and after his example cultivated and encouraged polite literature. To the poor he was a protector and benefactor; and true merit was never more liberally rewarded in Portugal, than during his reign. Of his extraordinary prowefs, all Hiftorians bear tefti-mony ; and his effigy, which is over his tomb in the Convent of Batalha, faid to have been fculptured after Nature, feems to corroborate the fact; for it reprefents him as a man of uncommon mufcular strength. Llis helmet and battle-axe are alfo preferved here. I was not a little fur- * Here is a ftriking inftance of it: A gentleman of the bed-chamber, named Don Ferdinand Alonzoy though a favourite with the King, wns apprehended for making too free with Dona Beatrix, one of the Queen's ladies. Alonzo made his efcape from the officers, and took fanctuary in a church} affirming that he was privately married to her. But the King, whofe ruling pafiion was jealoufy, came in pcr-fon, and dragged the unfortunate lover to the flames. The lady was banifhed to Caftile, her native country. 4 prifed prifed on examining the latter ; perhaps there are but few men of this age could wield fuch a ponderous weapon *. Indeed, he appears to have realized the ideas that Shake-fpear and Agrippa entertained of the vigour of thofe children born out of wedlock ; for, as we before obferved, he was the natural fon of Don Pedro by a Galician lady. u The " beds of adultereffes (fays Agrippa) have brought forth <£ the moft illuftrious heroes in the world; as Hercules, " Alexander, Ifhmael, Abimelech +, Solomon, Conftan-cc tine, Clodoveus king of the Franks, Theodorick the " Goth, William the Conqueror, Raymond of Arra-" gon, &c." As a further teftimony of this Prince's perfonal ftrength, take the following anecdote, which we give on the authority of a Portuguefe gentleman. Don John was fo fecure in the affections of his fubjects, that he frequently walked abroad without any attendants. In one of his morning perambulations, he chanced to obferve an old man, who was lame and blind, at the oppofite fide of a rivulet, waiting till fome one came to guide his fteps over a plank thrown acrofs it. As there was no one at hand but the King, he inftantly approached, threw him on his fhoulder, and carried him in that pofture to the next road. The poor * Engravings of the above-mentioned f De Soufa, the Portuguefe Hiftorian, battle-axe and helmet may be feen in the compares Don John to Abimelech. Author's defcription of Batalha. / t man, man, furprifed at the eafe with which he was carried, exclaims, " I wifh Don John had a legion of fuch flout u fellows to humble the pride of the Caftilians, who de-" prived me of the ufe of my leg." Here, at the requeft of the King, he gave a fhort account of the feveral actions in which he had been engaged. In the fequel his Majefty recollected that this was Fon-feca, the brave foldier, who had courageoufly fought by his fide in the memorable battle of Aljubarrota, that fixed the crown on his head. Grieved to fee him in fuch a diftrefTed ftate, he defired him to call next morning at the royal palace, to know how he came to be neglected by his fervants in power. Who fljall I inquire for f quoth the brave Belifarius. " For your gallant companion at the " battle of Aljubarrotareplied the King, departing. A perfon who at a diftance witneflfed the fcene, fhortly after accofted Fonfeca, and informed him of what his Sovereign had done. "Ah!" faid he, (when he recovered from his furprife,) " I am now convinced of the truth of " what has often been afTerted, the fhoulders of monarchs " are certainly accuftomed to bear great burthens. I re-" joice in having devoted the prime of my life to the " fervice of one who, like the Prince of Uz, is legs to the ** lame, and eyes to the blind." 3 Contiguous Contiguous to the tomb of the Founder are four mural fepulchres of very elegant workmanfhip, in the Gothic manner, containing the remains of his fons, Pedro, Henry, John, and Ferdinand. Firft, of Prince Pedro. This Prince was Duke of Coimbra and Monte Mor, Knight of the order of the Garter, &c. During the minority of Don Alfonfo the Fifth, his nephew and fon-in-law, the government of the kingdom devolved to him ; and all the Hiftorians of that country allow, that the law was never difpenfed with more impartiality, or better tempered with mercy, than during his adminiftration, which continued eleven years. Nor was he lefs eminent as a ftatefman, than as a general and a traveller. He diftinguifhed himfelf in various engagements in Africa, where he headed an army of Portuguefe againft the Moors. He alfo fignalized his valour in Germany againft the Turks, under the ftandards of the Emperor Sigifmond. On account both of his voyages and eloquence, he was called the UlyfTes of his age. In the year one thoufand four hundred and twenty-four he fet out from Portugal, and fpent four years in travelling over a great part of 1 2 Europe* Europe, Afia, and Africa. Travels at that time being very rare, efpecially among perfons of his rank, his adventures gave rife to many fabulous reports. Faria fays, that he wrote feveral books, but does not mention their titles, nor could we obtain any intelligence on that head, fo little are they known at prefent; if they contain matter of information, we truft they will no longer be with-held from the Public. Don Pedro having furnifhed the annals of his country with the brighteft examples of wifdom in the cabinet, and courage in the field, was put to death by the King his nephew, at the inftigation of fome of his favourites, whom he offended when he held the adminiftration of public affairs. The rafh, giddy King foon repented his having deprived the world of fo great a man; but by inverting the order of juftice, his repentance came too late : he firft ordered him to be flain, then gave him a fair trial; and on being found innocent of the alleged offence, he endeavoured to expiate his own guilt, by publifhing the innocence of Don Pedro to the world, and giving his remains an honourable interment in the Monaftery of Batalha. Prince Prince Henry Seems to have been born for the. good of mankind; a born to free them from the fceodal fyftem, and to give to the whole world every advantage, every light that may poffibly be diffufed by the intercourfe of unlimitted commerce." With all the noble accomplifhments that elevate human life, he pofTeffed the amiable talents that em-bellifh it. His motto, 'Talent de bien faire, was verified in all his actions, which were invariably directed to the happinefs of his fellow-beings. The fpirit of navigation, which had hitherto llumbered on the ocean, under his aufpices fpread her wings, and fought the remoteft fhores. The King his father, having fubdued his neighbouring enemies, prepared to crown the return of peace with! grand festivals; in the courfe of which he purpofed to confer the honour of Knighthood on his fons. But as they juftly considered that this distinction ought to be the reward of well-earned merit, they mutually agreed to reprefent to his Majesty, that the treafure he refolved to expend on that ceremony, would be employed to greater advantage in the field of battle; wherein they would have an opportunity of evincing to the world, that they merited his intended distinction. The refult of the prudent remon-ftrance was the capture of Ceuta, where they were 4. knighted knighted by the King, amidft the acclamations of the army. The prifoners whom the fortune of war had thrown into his power on that event, experienced a bountiful matter; and Henry had the good fortune to find among them fome Arabians who had travelled over feveral parts of the Eaft. Their information contributed to enlarge the fphere of his knowledge in cofmography, his favourite ftudy, to which he had now totally refigned himfelf. And in order to avoid all interruption, he retired to a folitary village named Sagres, in the kingdom of Algarve. Here, like the great Newton, he lived in perpetual celibacy, cultivating all the noble fciences. " And here, where the view of the ocean infpired his hopes and endeavours, he erected his arfenals, and built and harboured his fhips ; leaving the temporary buftle and cares of the ftate to his father and brothers." tc Having received all the light which could be dif-covered in Africa, he continued unwearied in his mathematical and geographical ftudies. The art of {hip-building received very great improvement under his direction; and the truth of his ideas of the structure of the terraqueous globe are now confirmed. He it was who firft fuggefted the ufe of the compafs, and of longitude and latitude in navigation, and how thefe might be afcertained by by aftronomical obfervations : fuggeftions and difcoveries which would have held no fecond place among the conjectures of a Bacon, or the improvements of a Newton." Prince Henry for upwards of forty years profecuted his difcoveries along the coaft of Africa. Puerto Santo and the Madeira Iflands were the firft fruits of his enter-prife. The Azores and Cape Verd Iflands were alfo discovered by him, and his commanders, after traverfing the coaft from Cape Bojador to Siera Leona, a diftance of three hundred and feventy leagues, pasted the Equinoctial Line, and failed as far as the Ifland of Saint Matthew, which is in the fecond degree of South latitude. " The Prince, now in his fixty-feventh year, yielded to the ftroke of Fate, in the year of our Lord one thou fend four hundred and fixty-three, gratified with the certain profpect, that the rout to the Eaftern world would one day crown the enterprifes to which he had given birth. He had the happinefs to fee the naval Superiority of his country over the Moors eftablifhed on the moft folid bafis, its trade greatly upon the increafe, and, what he efteemed his greateft happinefs, he flattered himfelf that he had given a mortal wound to Mahommedifm, and had opened the door to an univerfal propagation of Christianity and the civilization of mankind. And to him, as to their primary author, are due all the inestimable advantages which ever have flowed, or will flow, from the difcovery of the greateft greateft part of Africa, of the Eaft and Weft Indies. Every improvement in the ftate and manners of thefe countries, or whatever country may yet be difcovered, is ftridly due to him ; nor is the difference between the pre-fent ftate of Europe, and the monkifh age in which he was born, lefs the refult of his genius and toils. What is an Alexander, crowned with trophies at the head his army, compared with a Henry contemplating the ocean from his window on the rock of Sagrez ! The one fuggefts the idea of the evil daemon, the other of a tutelary angel The cumbent effigy of Prince Henry, which is feen on his tomb, is dignified with a royal crown ; for, according to De Soufa, he was elected King of Cyprus -y he was alfo Matter of the order of Chrift, Duke of Vifeu, and Knight of the Garter. This Pharo of navigation has been celebrated by the Hiftorians and Poets of every nation in Europe. The Prince of the Portuguefe Bards has paid the following tribute of praife to his memory, in which iiis brother Don Pedro above mentioned is alfo included: Ilhiftrious, lo, two brother-heroes fhine, Their birth, their deeds, adorn the royal line j To every king of princely Europe known, In every court the gallant Pedro fhone. * See Micklc's Hiftory of the Difco- covery of Madeira, &c. From thefe Au- ,/very of India, See alfo Pather.de Soufa's thors we have extracted the above me- Dcfcription of Batalha, Faria's HHlory of moirs. jbtydia, De Barros's Account of the Dif- • The The glorious Henry-kindling at his name, Behold my failor's eyes all fparkle flame! Henry the chief, who firft, by Heaven infpired, To deeds unknown before, the failor fired; The confcious failor left the fight of more, And dared new oceans, never ploughed before. The various wealth of every diftant land He bade his fleets explore, his fleets command. The ocean's great Difcoverer he fhines; Nor lefs his honours in the martial lines: The painted flag the cloud-wrapt fiege difplays; There Ceuta's rocking wall its truft betrays. Black yawns the breach; the point of many a lpear Gleams through the finoke; loud fhouts aftound the ear, Whofe ftep firft trod the dreadful pafs ? whofe fword Hew'd its dark way, firft with the foe begor'd ? 'Twas thine, O glorious Henry ! firft to dare The dreadful pafs, and thine to clofe the war. Taught by his might, and humbled in her gore, The boaftful pride of Afric tower'd no more. Lnfiad, book via. Our Britifh Bard, in defcribing the ftate of Europe at the commencement of the fifteenth century, thus celebrates Prince Henry: -For then, from ancient gloom emerg'd The rifing world of trade : the Genius, then, Of Navigation, that in hopelefs floth Had flumber'd on the vaft Atlantic deep For idle ages, ftarting, heard at laft The Lusitanian Prince, who, Heave n-infpir'd, To love of ufeful glory rous'd mankind, And in unbounded commerce mixt the world. Tbotnfon, K Don John. Of this Prince there is nothing very remarkable on record \ he was matter of the order of St. James, and Lord High Conftable of Portugal. On the pannel of his fepulchre are reprefented branches bearing wild ftrawber-ries, a pouch, and (hells. The two latter appertained to his order, and De Soufa fuppofes he adopted the former, as an emblem to exprefs his devotion for the glorious Baptift, who lived on wild fruit, and on account of his name being John. Don Ferdinand, After gaining many victories in Africa, laid fiege to Tangier, in company with his brother Henry, where the Moors furrounded them, and all the Portuguefe under their command, amounting to feven thoufand. The forces of the enemy are faid to have been fix hundred thoufand. The Princes, in order to extricate themfelves and their men, offered to deliver up Ceuta, on condition that they fhould be allowed to return home. The enemy gladly accepted the offer, and demanded one of the brothers as an hoftage for the fulfilment of the terms, whereupon Prince Ferdinand offered himfelf, and was accordingly detained. When When the account of this difarter reached Lifbon, the Government was much divided in opinion. The King was willing to comply with the terms, to redeem his brother, but the Court, feconded by the Pope, urged the neceflity of keeping Ceuta, as a check on the Infidels. In the mean time, large fums were propofed for the ranfom of the Prince, but in vain. Don Edward, who had now afcended the throne, finding negociation fail, refolved to releafe his brother by force; but juft as he was about to embark with a formidable army, he was feized with a plague, and died ; leaving orders with his Queen to deliver up Ceuta for the refcue of his brother. This, however, was never performed; fb that the unfortunate Prince ended his days in captivity. The piety of his manners, and the magnanimity of his behaviour, made Don Ferdinand the object of univerfal regret; and this regret was heightened by the cruel treatment he received from the Infidels. His virtues and patient fufferings became a fine fubjecT: for writers of romance, and they have not failed to draw the tear of companion in many a pathetic tale. Ferdinand is reputed a Saint in Portugal to this day. The friars of Batalha commemorate his anniverfary with great folemnity on the fifth of June. k 2 On On the fepulchres of the above Princes, and alfo that of the King their father, are fculptured in mezzo relievo various devices, characteristic of their refpective actions or difpofitions. They had likewife, for the fame purpofe, their refpective mottos: they are written in the French language; becaufe, as De Soufa tells us, that language was much efteemed in their time, and very current among Princes, on account of its courtefy and politenefs. The mottos are as follow: King John L, Don Pedro, Don Llenry, Don John, Don Ferdinand, II me plait pour bien. Defr* Talent de bien faire. ye ai bien raifon. Le bien 7ne plait. King Edward. This Prince was the eldeft fon of John the Firft, whom he fucceeded on the throne. His effigy, with that of his confort Leanor, are on a tomb at the foot of the great altar of the church. He reigned but five years and one month: in this Ihort period the kingdom experienced many difafters, both from the wars of Africa and the plague, which raged thoughout the country; to the latter he himfelf, with many of his fubjects, fell a facri-fice. In his administration he was juft, and rendered the 3 country country considerable fervice, by reducing the laws to a regular code, and commanding the nobility to look after their eftates. A fimilar ordinance would not, perhaps, be -injurious to the health or fortune of the prefent nobility of Portugal. According to the Portuguefe Hiftorians, Don Edward was one of the moft accomplifhed men of his time; he fpoke and wrote Latin elegantly, and was author of feveral books. We cannot fay much for their merit, for they are fcarcely known at prefent; his memory could not pref'Tve them from finking into oblivion. The writings of Princes are fubject to the fame fate with thofe of the humbleft of their fubjects. Faria mentions one of thofe books, and but one, a treatife on horfemanfhip. Perhaps the author's kinfman, Prince Alfonfo, fon of John the Second, who is interred in the Chapter houfe, never read that treatife, or he would not have loft his life by bad horfemanfhip. King John the Second. In one of the chapels at the Eaft end of the church is deposited the remains of John the Second, without a monument, or even an infcription. But his actions will perpetuate his memory, when the proudeft monuments are funk into duft. His corpfe remains, from the time of its its interment, in one thoufand four hundred and ninety-five, to this day, uncorrupted, though it was not embalmed, nor prepared to withstand that difTolution which awaits on mortality : whether this proceeds from the nature of the difeafe of which he died, (an haemorrhage, fuppofed to be brought on by drinking of the water of a poifoned fpring near Evora,) or from any antifeptical properties of his coffin, or both, the naturalifl can beft determine. There are fome, I am aware, more devout perhaps than philofophic, who attribute this phenomena to the Monarch's fanctity. I fhould be forry to difturb fo harmlefs .an opinion. If the characters of Princes are to be estimated by the fervices they render mankind, this Monarch has great claims on the gratitude of pofterity. His court was considered as the Lyceum of Europe, The learned and ingenious men of the times flocked to it, and were en* couraged in proportion to their talents, the only recommendation to his munificence. Nor did religious opinions rife as a barrier between real worth and royal favour ; in the circle of his ftatefmen, phyficians, and miffionaries, were to be found Jews of diftinguifhed abilities; for, to do juftice to the Ifraelites of Portugal, they have in general been remarkable for fidelity and attachment to their King and country, before the eftablifhw eftablifhment of that inaufpicious tribunal that has thinned the nation of its inhabitants, and reared the bafilifk of perfecution on the ruins of the temple of humanity. His profound knowledge of mathematicks fuggefted to him, that a fhorter and fafer way of navigation than hitherto known was not impracticable. The learned men of his court took the problem into consideration, and cultivated it with fuch fuccefs, that the world is indebted to them for the invention of the Aftrolabium *, and the firft tables of delineation for the ufe of pilots. By thefe inventions he was enabled to enlarge the boundaries of his dominions. Various difcoveries were now made under his aufpices, along the coaft of Africa, whence his fleets returned laden with the moft valuable products of thofe countries j but what gave him the greateft fatif-faction, was the opportunity thefe difcoveries afforded him of propagating the light of the GofpeL We may conceive what progrefs he made in converting the Africans, by the numbers that were baptifed in the kingdom of Congo-alone* which (if there be no miftake in the calculation), amounted to an hundred thoufand. * The AJlrolabium is an inftrument by of John the Second. Martin of Bohemia,, which are afcertained the altitude of the one of the moft celebrated mathematicians Sun, and diftance of the Stars. It is of that age, is fuppofed by fome to have faid to have been invented by Roderigo aflifted them, and Joze, two Jew phyficians at the court Anxious Anxious to carry the peaceful banners of Chriftianity ftill farther, he difpatched Bartholomew Dias on that expedition in which he made the firft difcovery of the Cape of Good Hope ; a difcovery which infpired him with the livelicft hopes of difplaying his enfigns on the banks of the Ganges. The better to fucceed in his defigns, he difpatched Pedro Covillam and Alonfo de Payva over-land into India, for fuch information as they could obtain of the ftate of that country; hoping thereby to facilitate his intended expedition to the Eaft. Having travelled together as far as Toro in Arabia, they parted, and took different routs. Covillam, after vifiting Cananor, Calicut, Goa, Sofala, Mozambique, Quiloa, Mombara, Melinda, 6cc. returned to Grand Cairo, where he heard of the death of his companion. Shortly after their departure from Lifbon, the King difpatched a Jew, named Rabbi Abraham, a native of Baja in Portugal, upon the fame errand; he met at Cairo with Covillam, who fent him home with every intelligence that he had acquired in thofe countries, and he himfelf proceeded to Abyffinia for further information, but unfortunately was never heard of more. The flattering accounts the King received from the Jew, ftimulated his natural propensities to difcoveries; but, alas! he was obliged to fufpend his meritorious projects for for his perfonal fafety and the quiet of the kingdom. The Duke of Vifeu, at the head of a difcontented party, confpired againft his life. His Majefty having efcaped the hand of the affaffin three different times, fent for the Duke and walked with him in a garden, where he con-verfed with him on the relative duty of the King and the fubject, and at the end put this emphatic queftion to him, " What wouldft thou do unto the man who attempted to " take away thy life?" To which the Duke anfwered, u I would take his firft, if I could." " Then verily," faid the King, " as Nathan faid to David, Thou art the man (" and immediately plunged a dagger into his breaft. This was the Prince to whom Pope Alexander the Sixth, out of the plenitude of his generofity, prefented one half of the globe, to put an end to the difpute between the Crowns of Portugal and Caftile, relative to the fovereignty of the Ocean. Here was the manner his Holi-nefs adjufted the bufinefs: he meafured one hundred leagues to the Weftward of the Cape Verd Iflands, from which point he ordered a line to be drawn from pole to pole: then taking his fpiritual feclor, he divided this round O into two parts, and gave the Eaftern hemifphere, with all its lands and feas, to the King of Portugal; the other he prefented to the King of Caftile ; interdicting, at the fame time, all but the subjects of the two Crowns to vifit thofe parts, under pain of excommunication. But King John, not fatisfied with his fhare of the orb, infifted l that that his rival was entitled, not to a hemifphere, but to a fegment. The Ministers of the two contending Powers at length met, and decided the bufmefs, by extending the line of feparation two hundred and feventy leagues farther to the Weft, than his Holinefs had appointed. Leiria, One of the moft ancient cities in Portugal, is fituated on the banks of the river Lis, in the midft of a fertile country, finely diverfified with hill and dale. The foil is fo productive, that with little labour it yields abundance of corn, grapes, and olives, yet with all thefe advantages, both the plough and the loom are neglected, no wonder then that an air of fadnefs and defolation is visible in every ftreet. The remains of a palace *, formerly the residence of King Diniz, furnamed the Hufbandman, ftill makes a confpicuous figure, on the brow of a precipice contiguous to the town. It is impoflible to furvey thofe veftiges, * A great part of that palace is thought to have been built of the fragments of an ancient city called Callipo, which Hif-tory (hews to have once flourifhed near this place. I faw a gold coin that was lately found there among the rubbifh, bearing a figure of a bull on the re-verfe, finely executed. The name perhaps fhould be written Calliope. As it was a Roman city *, it might have been fo called after the mother of Orpheus, and Mufe of Epic Poefy. without without emotions of honour and veneration for the memory of a Monarch who ftudied the interest of his country and of the human race, by his having wifely converted the fpear into the plough-fhare. When King Diniz had fecured the tranquillity of his dominions, he turned his attention towards the cultivation of the foil: his firft ftep towards the accomplifhment of this great object was to reftrain the feudal fyftem, under which the wretched peafantry had long groaned ; and the better to promote his favourite purfuit, he erected farm-houfes in every part of the kingdom, which he vifited in rotation, and diftributed gratuitoufly all kinds of implements of agriculture among the hulbandmen, whom he considered as the pillars of the ftate, and the peaceful companions of Nature. Portugal, which now-a^days does not annually produce fufficient corn for three months home consumption, was confidered in his reign as one of the firft granaries in Europe. This fcarcity, as fome have erroneoufly fup- -pofed, is not to be attributed to any change in the foil, (for that is permanent, if any thing terrestrial can be called permanent,) but to a great change in the fentiments of the people. The modern Portuguefe, contrary to the maxims of their ancestors, feek for wealth far from Lu-fitania, in the deep mines of the Brafils; whilst they forget that more fubftantial wealth may be found in l 2 their their native fields, and that within fix inches of the fur-face. King Diniz was fo well allured of the truth of this, from the knowledge he had of the productions of the country, that he never had occafion to apply to his neighbours for the neceffaries or luxuries of life; it even fupplied him with gold and filver. He had a magnificent crown and fceptre made of gold collected on the fands of the Tagus. But, alas! even the molt exalted characters are taxed by humanity with fome imperfection. He is charged, like our illuftrious Henry the Second, with too great a paflion for the fair fex. He had not, however, the fame apology for departing from his conjugal ties as the Britifh hero ; for his Queen pofTefTed every virtue that can adorn her fex. Far from vifiting the fins of the father upon the children, fhe took all his illegitimate offspring (who were not a few) under her protection, and had them educated with as much care and tendernefs as her own. And thus, by her patient and meek behaviour, we are told that fhe prevailed on him to abandon that vice at a good old age. This pious Queen was canonized in the reign of Philip the Fourth of Spain. There is one noble inftitution of Don Diniz (till extant, which will ever bear testimony of his wifdom ; that is, the celebrated Univerfity of Coimbra, which he founded in the year one thoufand two hundred and ninety-one. He 13 alfo alfo planted the foreft at Marinha, which is one of the moft extenfive in Europe. Portugal has, and ftiil con* tinues to derive more advantage from thefe fettlements, than from all the victories of King Emanuel. Camoens, fenfible of the merits of fo great a Prince, has paid the following tribute to his memory : -Now brave Diniz reigns, whofe noble lire Befpoke the genuine lineage of his Sire *. Now heavenly peace wide wav'd her olive bough, Each vale difplay'd the labours of the plough, And fmil'd with joy : the rocks on every fhore Refound the dafhing of the merchant-oar. Wife laws are formM, and conftitutions weigh'd, And the deep-rooted bafe of Empire laid. Not Amnion's fon with larger heart beftow'd f, Nor fuch the grace to him the Mufes ow'd. From Helicon the Mufes wing their way ; Mondego's flow'ry banks invite their flay. Now Coimbra fhincs, Minerva's proud abode ; And fir'd with joy, ParnafTus' bloomy God Beholds another dear-lov'd Athens rife, And fpread her laurels in indulgent ikies. Luftady book iif. * King Diniz was the eldefl fon of Alfonfo the Third. He was born at Lifbon on the 9th of O&ober iltfi. \ The liberality of Diniz became proverbial. When he was appointed as arbitrator to compofe the difference which fubfifted between the Kings of Caftile and Arragon,, he made the moft valuable pre-fents ever known in his time to the royal families and nobility of Spain. A few days before he returned home, a Caftilian gentleman obferved, whilft he was at dinner, that his Majefty'a munificence es> tcnded to every one except himfelf; upon which Diniz defired him to take the only prefent he had lefoof what be had brought with him j that was, the filver table upon which he dined. There There is a considerable fair held annually in the city of Leiria, on the twenty-fifth of March. It was much crowded with dealers, who expofed to fale various articles of Englifh manufacture, particularly woollen cloths of a fecond quality, and hard-ware of every kind. The principal articles furnifhed by the natives were plate, jewellery, linen cloths, and pottery ; the quantity of the former was very great, but more to be valued for the weight than the workmanfhip. In a confpicuous part of the market, two French Char-letans erected their booths; one a doctor, the other a dentift.. The latter flood on a table, and performed feats of empiricifm that aftonifhed the gaping crowd ; and in reality his dexterity in tooth-drawing was very remarkable, they feemed to fly from their rooted focket at the touch of his finger. He affured me, that he expected to earn a moidore a day during the fair, though he charged the poor but ten reis a tooth. The doctor, who vended his panacea under an adjoining fhed, had not fo many patients as his companion, nor were his abilities fo apparent to the vulgar, though he bore all the external marks of a perfon of deep refearch ; he was fhort^ fighted, pale, meapre, and wrinkled as a rib flocking; yet thefe fapient indices were loft on the multitude- His long and fuccefbful practice, he faid, had enabled him to jcondenfe condenfe the whole pharmacopoeia into one medicine, which (though in fact but a Ample falve) he applied in-difcriminately to all complaints, whether chronical or acute; and " With this he curM both poor and rich, " Yet was himfelf all over itch." A ftranger has an opportunity of obferving the per-fonal ftate of the inferior clafs of this diftrict, from the number of peafantry who flock annually to the fair. Their appearance in general indicates more happinefs than is pro-mifed by the uncultivated ftate of the land. The men wear fhort brown jackets, and boot s of the fame colour \ each carries a ftaff about feven feet long, which he wields in combat with great dexterity. The women wear long clokes, of a red or pearl colour, fringed with ribands; their necks and wrifts are ornamented with gold chains. The former fex are remarkably low of ftature and feeble, which fome attribute to their eating too much oil: but if that operated as the caufe, we fhould expect to find the females affected by it in like manner : whereas it is juft the reverfe; for they are ftrong, well-proportioned, and though but of a moderate iize, yet when ranged with the men they look like Amazons, and if they poffeffed their gallantry or warlike fpirit, they might transfer the diftaff 1 to to their hufbands, and lord it over them like the women of .Metelui. In the Cathedral of this city I witnefTed a fpectacle very humiliating to our nature. It was on a Sunday, during divine fervice, when a woman, about the age of five-and-twenty, poffehed of an evil fpirit, as it was fuppofed, entered the church. The Sacriftan conducted her before one of the lateral chapels, where (he ftood with her mouth open, making a hideous noife, which feemed to iffue from the venter. The painful fenfations her eyes and countenance expreffed, excited the commiferation of all the congregation ; but I could find none capable of giving any fatisfattory reafon refpecting the caufe or nature of her diftemper. May 28th. The feafon now arrived in which the people are entertained with bull-feafts. After an abfence of fome weeks I returned to Leiria to fee the diverfion, and was furprifed to find the effect it had on the inhabitants, particularly the lower clafs, who, with every de-monftration of joy, teltified their attachment for that favourite amufement. The combat was exhibited in a quadrangular area, or fquare, formed by the houfes in the middle of the city. The fpectators were accommodated with feats gratuitoufly in the balconies of thefe houfes, whence they had a complete view of what was paffing in the arena. About About three o'clock the diverfion began, when one of the bulls rufhed into the arena, fmarting with the wounds he had received in the liable, which were juft fprinkled with pickle. The combatants were about fixteen in number, each holding a fpear or dagger in the right hand, and a cloak of red filk on the left arm. The enraged animal now ran at one of them, who, notwithstanding the danger, flood firm and undaunted till the bull dropped his horns to gore him, then he moved on his left foot from behind the cloak, and plunged a dagger into his neck. The greater part of the exhibition was but a repetition of fuch attacks; as here they have none but pedeflrian performers, of whom there were two who excelled the reft in courage, execution, and activity ; one was a Spaniard, the other an African. Each of them, in more than one inftance, difpatched a bull at the firft; onfet, by aiming his dagger in a tender part between the horns, in confequence of which the animal inftantly dropped, and was not feen afterwards to betray the leaft fymptoms of life. The moft hazardous part was executed by a perfon who, unarmed, attacked one of thefe bulls. He threw himfelf between the two horns, and grafped the animal about the neck ; in this pofture he was carried about the arena, till difengaged by the united a/Tiftance of all the combatants, who overthrew the bull, which, in this inftance, agreeably to the rules of the feaft, became their property. When they found a bull that was ftronger and wilder than the reft, they protracted his exiftence longer than ufual, amidft the moft excruciating tortures that ingenious cruelty could devife. The body was pierced in various parts, and a number of broken fpears ftuck into the flefh. Whilft the poor animal was thus bleeding at every pore, feveral tubes, filled with fquibs and rockets, were faftened to darts and plunged into the body. As foon as thefe were fet on fire he flood in the midft of the arena, tearino-up the ground and bellowing, whilft clouds of fmoke (which he inhaled in breathing) iffued from his mouth and noftrils. Though there are many enlightened people in Portugal who do not approve of thefe barbarous entertainments, yet the common people are fo attached to them, that it would be very difficult to abolifh them immediately. By degrees, however, they might be put an end to, and fome manly, generous diverfion introduced in their ftead : civilization, it muft allowed, would lofe nothing by the exchange, and humanity would rejoice at it. We fhall conclude this fubject with a fhort extract: from a letter of Mr. Upton's, refpecting Spenfer's Fairie Queene. " In the tenth book of Heliodorus you will find that *c Theagenes both tamed and rode on the back of a wild " bull. We have at Oxford now, a very valuable monu-" ment of this ftrange kind of fport.—This was a fport " to inure the youths to warlike exercifes, ufual at Thef-w faly, and by Casfar brought to Rome. But as Dr. Pri-*' deaux has already treated of this fubject in his Dif-N fertation upon the Arundel Marbles, I fhall only add, " that the modern bull-feafts in Spain feem plainly to be M derived from this ftrange exercife and fport; firft be-" gun by the Centaurs, who, from their hunting and " driving away the herds of their neighbours, had their " original names; then a public paftime among the u ThefTalians, afterwards among the Romans, and at laft " ending in Spanifh bull-feaft." Mar'mha Grande. Here I fpent the month of May, at the hofpitable feat of William Stephens Efquire, the proprietor of an extenfive glafs manufactory, which he eftablifhed at this place about thirty years ago. The kingdom and its colonies are fupplied from hence with every article of glafs-ware, bottles excepted. It is the only factory of the kind in Portugal; and the glafs imported is very trifling, as the duty laid on it amounts almoft to a prohibition. The greateft inconvenience attending this fabrick, is its diftance from Lifbon, which is about nineteen leagues. The ware m 2 is is fent thither by carriers, who occupy three days in the journey: but this inconvenience is compenfated by the local advantages Marinha Grande poffeffes in wood, fand, and kelp. There is a noble foreft of pine-trees computed at thirty miles in circumference, at a fhort diftance from this place. This foreft was planted by the good King Diniz, for the benefit of pofterity, and has fince remained the property of the crown. Previous to the difcovery of America, the Portuguefe drew all their fhip-timber from hence; at prefent there is very little ufe made of it, except what Mr. Stephens ufes in his glafs-houfe, who has the privilege of felling the decayed trees. The land about Marinha Grande is very unproductive; the greater part of it is a wafte of marfh or fand. Mr. Stephens has reclaimed about thirty acres, which were covered with fand; and he allures me, that it now yields feven or eight abundant crops o{ lucern every year, though for ages paft it did not yield a blade of grafs. The following Paper, for which I am indebted to the gentleman above mentioned, may, perhaps, be ufeful to thofe who are interested in the culture of Bees: An Account of the Manner of treating Bees in Portugal. " To form a colony of Bees, a fpot of ground is chofen for the hives, expofed towards the South or South Laft, well Sheltered from the Northern blafts, and furrounded with Shrubs and flowers; of the latter, the belt is rofe-mary. The richer the neighbouring grounds are, the better; for Bees are faid to range for food to the diftance of a league from their homes. The fituation being chofen, lanes muft be cut through the fhrubby thickets of five or fix feet wide. The fences between the lanes fhould be about the fame dimensions, and formed at intervals into fmall recefTes, like bowers or niches, to receive the hives. " The figure of the hives ufed here in general are cylindrical ; in height about twenty-fcven inches by fourteen diameter. They are formed of the rind of the cork-tree, and covered with a pan of earthen-ware inverted, the edge of which projects over the hive like a cornice. The whole is faftened with pegs made of fome hard and durable wood, and the joints flopped with peat. In the front of the cylinder, at the height of about eight inches, there is a fmall aperture where the Bees enter. The in fide is 1 divided divided into three equal divifions, which are Separated by crofs flicks: here the Bees form their combs or cells. " When the Bees fwarm, which is ufually in the month of May or June, the hives are placed to receive them where they alight. If they defcend on a tree, they are Shaken off: the perfon who performs this operation muft not be afraid of them, as they do not commonly fting unlefs they are irritated ; it will be fafer, however, to cover the head with a wire-mafk, and the hands with gloves. '* Some Bees are fo wild, that they fly away in attempting to collect: them, but they may be caught again in this manner : a fheet is placed by night on the ground contiguous to the fwarm, and when they alight, the hive is placed over them, with the entrance flopped, then the whole is covered with a fheet, in which they are carried home. But they fhould not be placed near the hive whence they had originally departed. " When the time arrives for taking out the honeycombs, which is generally in the month of June, when the flowers begin to decay, it fhould be done in the heat of the day, as the greater part of the bees are then abroad, but not during a high wind, or at the commencement of a new or full moon. The hiver muft have his face and and hands defended, as above mentioned, and accompanied by a pcrfon holding a chafmg-difh, with a coal-fire, covered with moift peat, to make the greater fmoke: this fmoke being infufed among the Bees from the top of the cylinder, they fly away, or remain intoxicated at the bottom, then the hive is taken to pieces, by drawing out the pins. The combs are cut out without deftroying the Bees, except two cells, which are left around the hive; and left the Bees fhould feed on what remains, the incifion is covered with pulverized clay ; after this the hive is put together as before. " The combs fhould not be taken out but when they are full of honey; it is rarely good the firft year the Bees afTemble. In the months of March and Auguft the wax is taken out, which is lodged in the firft divifion of the hive, after which the Bees form other combs, and generate a young colony. " The hiver fhould often vifit the ground, and repair any accidents that have happened. If fnakes frequent the place, they fhould not be killed, fince they do not moleft the Bees, but deftroy the toads and lizards, which are obnoxious to them. u When the hives are decayed, they are taken afundcr and fumigated • then the Bees forfake their habitations, and take fhelter in an adjoining hive, previoufly prepared for 11 that that purpofe. This fhould be performed in the Spring, when the flowers begin to open and afford them fuccour. The fame method may be ufed in taking out the honey; but if repeatedly pra&ifed, it will extinguifh the colony. « As the Bees, in returning from their excurlions, are loaded and fatigued, there fhould be nothing near the hives to obftruc"! their defcent, which is not in a perpendicular courfe, but in an oblique one." Royal Monaftery of Alcobaqa* The Royal Monaftery of Alcobaca is feated in a pretty village of the fame name, about fifteen leagues North of Lifbon ; it is well fheltered, particularly towards the Weft, by riling grounds, which gradually afcend to an immenfe elevation. Every part of the neighbouring country is well cultivated, and produces corn and fruit of various kinds. In examining the origin of the religious ftruftures of the twelfth century, we find the greater part of them have been founded in grateful remembrance of fome divine favour in battle, or elfe with a view to expiate the fins of the founder ; fo that they may not be improperly called the temples of gratitude and repentance. This magnificent ficent ftructure is indebted for its origin to the former caufe. It was founded in the year one thoufand one hundred and feventy, by Alphonfo the firft King of Portugal, in confequence of taking the fortrefs of Santerem from the Moors, the capture of which he previoufly vowed to commemorate by a Monaftery. Faria relates, that St. Barnard (who at this time refided in Claravallis in France) being infpired with the King's pious determination, fent two Monks to begin the Monaftery on the very day the vow was made. It is further obferved, that the fite originally intended for it, is not that on which it is built; as the lines were laid out to dig the foundation clofe to the road, an Angel came in the night and carried them feveral feet back, to a more eligible fituation. This remarkable circumftance is reprefented in a large painting, to be feen at this day in the gallery of the Hofpitium. The lame Angel would have done a laudable action, by extending a fimilar act of kindnefs to the pariih church, which is raifed oppofite to the Monaftery, in the centre of the high-road ; a fituation better adapted for a triumphal arch than a houfe of worfhip. Miracles of this fort, though rarely known in our days, were not, it feems, uncommon in former times. We are aflured by very grave Writers, that when Conftantine the n Great 9o TRAVELS I N P 0 R T U G A L. Great intended to transfer the feat of emoire to the EafL he pitched on Chalcedon for the fite of his Capital; as the workmen began to lay the foundation of it, certain engles, the ancient meflengcrs or Jove, carried away the lines, and let,them fall over Bizantium; upon which the Emperor altered his resolution, and built his city where it now (lands. It is much to be regretted, that thefe guardians of architecture do not pay a vifit to London ; very few of the citizens would be forry to hear that St. Clement's church in the Strand was numbered among the above miracles. But to return to our fubjeet: This Monaftery might be faid to commemorate three remarkable events; viz. the origin of the Portuguefe Monarchy, the commencement of the Bernardine order of Monks, and the introduction of a new fpecies of architecture into that kingdom, which our antiquaries call Modern Norman Gothic. The Church is entirely built in this ftyle, except the Weft front, which is more modern than the reft, and exhibits a felection of the defects of the Tufcan and Gothic ftyles. On entering the Church at the Weft front, one is ftruck with the grandeur of that general effect peculiar to the inlidc of Gothic Churches, but very few poffefs that property to a higher degree than this. The profpect at the 8 Eaft Eaft end is terminated by a magnificent Glory, placed over the altar, at the diftance of three hundred feet from the entrance ; but the apparent diftance is confidcrably more, on account of the narrownefs of the nave, and the regular fuc-ceflion of the pillars, which are twenty-fix in number; that is, thirteen at each fide. The longitudinal diftance from the centre of one pillar to that of the other is but feventeen feet three inches: according to the rules obferved in the beft proportioned Gothic edifices, this diftance is too little by one-third. The proportion of the pillars is likewife defective ; their dimeufions being greater than the impulfe of the vaults require. Indeed, the architect appears not to have been acquainted with the lex minimum in con-ftruction, which experience or fcience taught his fucceflors in this art. On the whole, there is very little difference between the architecture of this Structure and that called Ancient Norman, or Saxon, except that the arches, instead of being femicircular, as in the latter, are pointed ; in other refpects we obferve the defective proportions and rude fculpture of the Saxon churches in every part: the capitals, in particular, are almoft plain blocks; the bafes of the pillars have but few mouldings • the ribs of the vaults and architraves of the windows want that depth and fharpnefs which produce an air of lightnefs. The Eaft end, or choir, is of a femicircular form, after the manner of the ancient Churches, or Bafilifks, and which the Abbe Fleury fuppofes to have been made in that man- n 2 ncr ner by the Chriftians, to imitate that part of the Jewifh Temples where the Sanhedrim aflembled. The Gothic work which formerly decorated the choir, is now concealed by Grecian columns, with their appendages. This alteration was made about eighteen years ago by an Englifh fculptor, named William Elfden, at the requeft of the Friars. Nothing can be more difgufting to every admirer of antiquity, or indeed any man of the lead tafte, than this jumble of Grecian work, patched up in the moft ftriking part of a ftructure, executed in the fimple Gothic manner. As the Church of Alcobaca is one of the earlieft fpe« cimens of the modern Norman Gothic in Europe, and perhaps the moft magnificent of the early period in which it was founded, we fhould be glad, were it not foreign to our fubject, to give a more particular account of its architecture, and to illufoate the fame by engravings. We fhould then be enabled to make it appear, that the conjectures refpecting the origin of the Gothic ftyle are not warranted from this edifice, as we find nothing in it that has the moft diftant refemblance to bowers or groves, to Moorifh or Saracenic architecture, whence the pointed arch is fuppofed to be derived. I The Weft front of the Monaftery, including the church, which is in the centre, extends fix hundred and twenty feet. feet, the depth is about feven hundred and fifty feet. The inclofed fpace is occupied by dormitories, galleries, cl< ifters, 6cc. A Portuguefe Writer, in fpeaking of the ma nificence of this Monaftery, obferves, that its cloif-ters ire cities, its facrifty a church, and the church a baftlifk. The better to convey an idea of it, we {hall give the dimenfions of fome of the apartments. The kitchen, for example, is near an hundred feet long, by twenty-two broad, and fixty-three feet high from the floor to the intrados of the vault. The fire-place is twenty-eight feet long by eleven broad, and is placed, not in the wall, but in the centre of the floor ; fo that there is accefs to it at every fide. The chimney forms a pyramid refting upon eight columns of caft iron* A fubterranean ftream of water panes through the centre of the floor, which is occa-fionally made to overflow the pavement, in order to* clean fe it. Notwithstanding the magnitude of this apartment, there-is not an inch of it unoccupied from morning till night; for all the induftry of the Convent is concentred in it; the operations are carried on under the infpection of one of the lay-brothers. " i The refectory is ninety-two feet long by fixty-eight broad; the breadth is divided into three porticos by two ferics fcries of ftone columns. The tables are placed next the two fide and end walls; at the extreme end, where the Prior takes his feat, are two large pictures ; the one repre-fenting the Laft Supper, the other Chrift and the two Difciples at Emmaus. We fhould not omit to notice the cellar, as it is one of the moft valuable apartments belonging to the Monaftery; there are forty large calks in it, which are fuppofed to contain near feven hundred pipes of wine. It is very remarkable, that thefe people, avowedly aflemblcd for the purpofe of Studying as well as praying, have not a library in their convent, unlefs that deferves the name of one which is not larger than a clofet, and fcarcely contains as many books as there are pipes of wine in the cellar. The North Weft wing of the Monaftery is fet apart for the reception of Strangers; hence it is called the Hofpitium, the whole extent, which is two hundred and thirty feet, is distributed into Stately and convenient apartments. In the anti-rooms are fome good pictures, particularly one of the Judgment of Solomon, and feveral portraits of Popes and Cardinals, very well executed, by a Portuguefe artift named Vafques; among the latter we find the portrait of St. Thomas of Canterbury. The rooms of ftate are furnifhed with the portraits of the Sovereigns of Portugal, from the commencement of the Monarchy to the prefent: they have been lately painted by an artifl: named Antino AmareL I am forry that truth will not allow me to fay that they are well done ; the painter appears to have been an utter ftranger to light and (hade, and had but a very imperfect idea of drawing.. There is one portrait here, painted by a Portuguefe lady named Jofcpha, that is worth the whole collection. The above ferics of portraits arc ranged in the following chronological fucceflion : t. Alfonso I. the founder of 13- John II. obit anno 1495. this Monaftery, and the firft 14. Emanuel I. - 1521. King of Portugal, vixit anno 77, John III. - *S57- obit anno 1185. 16. Sebastian I. - 1578. 2. Sancho I. 1211. *7- Henry I. - 1580, 3- Alphonso II. - - 1223. 18. Philii' II. of Caftile, 1598. 4. Sancho II. 1248. 19. Philip III. - 1621, 5- Alfonso III. - 1279. 20. Philip IV. - 1665. 6. Diniz I. 21. John IV. - 1656. 7- Alfonso IV. - - 1357- 22. Alfonso VI. - 1683. 8. Peter I. 23- Peter II. 1706. 9- Ferdinand I. - - 1333- 24. John V. - 1750. io. John I. H33- Joseph I. - VtTh 1 r. Edward I. -' 1438. 26. Queen Maria I. born 17th 12. Alfonso V. - 1 481. December - In the apartment called the Hall of Kings, are feveral Statues of the Sovereigns of Portugal, made of Plafter of Paris, fome placed in niches, and others Handing on corbels at at the height of eight or nine feet. The name of the artift I do not remember; nor perhaps will it ever be found regiftcred in the catalogue of the imitators of nature. The third day after my arrival here, I was conducted by two of the Fathers up feveral flights of flairs to the Novices apartment ; on entering the gallery I found about & fcore of them, between the age of fourteen and eighteen, drawn up in a line, like a fquadron of foldiers; they flood in a reclined pofture, with their eyes fixed on the ground, wruTft their Superior, called the Padre Meftre, Hood oppofite to them, with a book in his hand. I was not a little furprifed to find that the prefence of a flranger did not induce any of them to raife his head. The Novices chapel contains one of the fineft collection of pictures in the kingdom. I had only time to examine a few of them attentively (without trefpafTing too much on the patience of the Fathers) ; one was a fmall figure of a Madona, fuppofed to be painted by Titian : it is certainly in his manner ; the colouring is exqui-fite, and though thinly laid on, the effect is grand and forcible, from the artful manner in which the different tints are contrafted. Strangers, I underftand, are but feldom allowed to vifit the Novices apartments, other-wife I woujd have taken a catalogue of this valuable £olleclion. From From thence I pafled to the oppofite fide, through a corridore, at each fide of which is a range of fmall cells, belonging to the Novices, who had now retired into them ; the dimenfions of each might be about fourteen feet by nine. I wifhed to fee the infide, but was told the Superior had the keys. In one of the doors was a fmall aperture, through which I obferved a graceful youth, of a pale and macerated countenance, about the age of fix-teen ; he was drefTed in a long black robe, on his knees, in the act of prayer, with a rofary in his hand; his eyes were fixed on a crucifix. The walls about him were without pictures, or any other ornament; and, left the view of external objects fhould interrupt the courfe of his meditation, there was but one fmall aperture in the cell to admit day, and that was placed next the cieling; the bottom and fides of it were fplayed fomewhat like a loop-holej fo that the rays of the evening rSun, which now fhone through it, fell on his tonfure, whilft all about him appeared in ftiade. Had Raphael transferred the fupplicatory object to the canvafs, he could not have chofen light better adapted to produce a grand effect. It is not my intention to interfere with the doctrine of the church, relative to the extinction or regulation of the paflions; I fhall only obferve, that if obedience and foli-tude are foremoft in the clafs of virtues, great muft be the reward of thefe probations, o In In order that the Fathers might want for nothing that contributes to the convenience or happinefs of the mo-naftic life; they are accommodated with a large garden at the rear of the church, which is planted with trees and fhrubs, and diftributed into pleafant walks. Here they recreate themfelves every afternoon. At intervals there are arbours formed in the thickets, and furnifhed with benches, where the Friars retire from the heat of the Sun, to ftudy or meditate. In the centre of the garden is a fine oval pond, of an hundred and thirty feet on the tranfverfe diameter, with an obeliflc in the centre of it. There are various cyprefs trees at the farther end of the garden, the leaves of which are ingenioujly formed by the {hears into figures reprefenting men ; fome in the act of fhooting, and others praying; fome with long cues, and others with perukes. This fpecies of fculpture, though hitherto not claffed among the branches of the fine arts,, approaches the neareft to Nature, perhaps, of any other; for thefe Sylvan figures abfolutely grow, and are daily fed, with the produce of the foil. They have their Winter and Summer, Spring and Autumn, their exiftence and diffolution, like other animated beings. Contiguous to the above garden there is a rabbit-warren belonging to the Monaftery, upon a conftruction different from any I had ever feen. It is two hundred feet long by i an an hundred and twenty-five broad, inclofed on every fide by walls about fixteen feet high. The floor is paved with large fquare flags, and the joints filled with cement. There are little fheds ranged along the foot of the wall, where oval earthen pots are placed, of eleven inches in depth by nine inches in height. The front of each has a round tube through which the rabbit enters; here they breed, and rear up their young ones. On the area of the warren are alfo feveral ranges of pots, apparently fet apart for the male rabbits. The whole, which are faid to amount to five or fix thoufand, are fed with plants brought from the neighbouring fields and gardens, together with the offals of the Convent. The Fathers of this Convent, like thofe we before mentioned at Oporto, are not allowed to appear on foot out of doors, except in the gardens belonging to their Monaftery ; fuch as have occafion to go abroad travel on mules, or in carriages ; they have a number of thefe animals in their ftables, which it feems they prefer to horfes, but for what reafon I could not learn, perhaps from motives of humility ; for Guevara tells us, that till his time, it was a mark of difgrace in Spain for a gentleman to ride on a mule. John the Second of Portugal, finding the breed of horfes nearly extinct, endeavoured to revive them in his dominions by prohibiting the ufe of mules. The clergy re- o 2 fufed fufed to comply with the ordinance, and appealed to the Pope to juftify them. But the King, not willing to fall out with this clafs of his fubjects, on consideration, thought it prudent to revife the edict, and inferted a claufe allowing all the clergy within his dominions to keep mules, but ordained at the fame time that no one fhould fhoe them, under pain of death. Thus he filenced their objection, and gained his point. The reader will eafily conceive what a vaft revenue it requires to keep up this inftitution, wherein there are about three hundred people, including fervants, living in a fplendid manner. But the royal founder took care to provide for all contingencies; for at the moment he vowed to build it, he endowed it with all the land and fea that can be feen from the fummit of a neighbouring mountain, which commands a wide horizon. The revenue arifing from this vaft trad of country renders Alcobaca one of the richeft and moft magnificent inftitutions of the kind, not only in Portugal, but in Europe. Of late years fome of its privileges have been reftrained many people, however, are of opinion that it ftill poffefTes too many. They alfo think the revenue is too great, from an idea that wealth promotes feafting more than praying.. But during a refidence here of near three weeks, I could, perceive no juft grounds for fuch remarks; on the contrary, I found the greateft temperance and decorum, 10 blended TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. ioi blended with hofpitality and cheerfulnefs, prevail in every part. Each Father holds his rank according to feniority or election. The junior Friars are very refpectful and fubmiilive to their fuperiors, and all are obedient to the Abbot-general, who prefides as chief. This prelate has no fpiritual fuperior in the kingdom, except the Cardinal; he holds the rank of a Bifhop, is Almoner to the King, and Chief of all the Monafteries and Nunneries of the Bernardine Order in Portugal. The office is elective every three years. This is the fecond time the prefent worthy General has ferved in that capacity. Every ftranger who vifits the convent is fure to meet with a polite and hofpitable reception. Many youths of the diftrict are maintained and educated by the Fathers. The fuperfluities of the refectory are diftributed among the poor; befides, there are pittances purpofely prepared for them twice a week ; fo that hundreds of indigent people are conftantly fed at their gates; and their tenantry are apparently as comfortable as any in the kingdom. Thofe who declaim againft their opulence, would do well to inquire, whether there be a nobleman or gentleman in Europe, pofTefTed of a revenue equal to that of this Monaftery, who diffufes fo many bleflings among his fellow-beings as the Fathers of Alcobaca. In In the archives of the Monaftery is preferved, among feveral other facred utenfils, a gold chalice of exquifite workmanfhip, which has excited the curiofity of fome learned and ingenious men. It is ftudded with many precious ftones of divers colours, and ornamented with feverat groups of beautiful figures in demi relief, reprefenting the Paflion of Chrift. The Fathers can give no fatisfactory account of it, neither do their records mention at what time it was made, nor by whom it was prefented ; according to fome, it was beftowed by King Emanuel, others fuppofe it was purchafed with the jewels of Dona Ignez de Caftro, who is entered here; whilft others conjecture that it was bought With the treafure of diamonds and rings, which Alfonfo the Firft bequeathed to the Monaftery at his death. Without prefuming to decide which of thefe opinions is right, I fhall offer the following memorandums for the confideration of the curious. On the cup, or upper part of the chalice, are twenty-feven emboffed letters, diftributed around the circumference in fix divifions, thus: NETO VIRHI ASBM MIGLK HOAM VEDIK. The TRAVELS IN RORTUGAL. 103 The foot of the chalice is about nine inches diameter, and contains an hundred and ten letters, which are diftributed into twelve divisions about its circumference, in the following order *: MDSXTB QVEKIP. THSFCIE MLDNE RGATOI. VELTHBE XIDKMT RVSNEB. ILCAL MFOKV IHPTXV. ESTDMIN ATVFOL RHVEBSI. NOPALX CVIHGI RMLOEI. NTKVFIL The Rev. Dr. Blutean, in a work confifting of various academical pieces, intitled Profas Portuguezas, has given a long differtation on thefe letters, wherein he attempts, though evidently in vain, to afcertain their meaning. As he was looked upon as an Author of no inconsiderable merit in his time, perhaps his manner of treating the fubjeA in queftion might apologize for the length of the following extracts, which we have endeavoured to tranflate as literally as pofuble: <<--Upon my inquiring of the Fathers-, if they knew the ngnification of thefe letters,, they anfwered in the ne- * As the letters on the neck of the liberty to begin at any fid* of the pelf* chalice are placet! in a hexagon, and thofe gons; thefc have been copied from left to on the foot in a duodecagan, we aie at right. gative, gative, though many ingenious men had endeavoured to explain them. This roufed my curiofity to copy the myfterious characters, not with a prefumption to decypher them, but with a view to devote a few leifure hours in examining them in the tranquillity of retirement. " Now, on the one hand, I figured to myfelf that all this metallic literature might be a mere artifice, to attract the curiofity of the ingenious ; on the other, it appeared to me injuftice to fuppofe, that fuch fine letters fhould have no meaning, and occupy fo much gold to no purpofe. But every time I confulted the curious about the interpretation of them, we became more entangled than the Argonaut in the Golden Fleece, which, according to fome, was likewife an enigma of golden letters. In this perplexity, as I had not, like Jafon, a Medea to conduct me through the maze, I conceived that the caballiftic art alone would give a thread to guide my fteps through this labyrinth. " Cabala, or Kabbala, a Hebrew word, which Signifies reception, is derived from kibbel, which means delivered, or taught. Thefe two etymologies are verified by the application of the word caballa; for in ancient times caballa was the fcience of inftructing without books or writings, and was communicated by fucceflive tradition delivered viva voce* " Between " Between the Caballa of the modern and ancient Hebrews there is a wide difference : that of the latter was -a noble myfterious doctrine, promulged by Mofes. In confirmation of this, Celio Rhodiginio fays, that Mofes received two laws on the Mount; one literal, which he wrote by order of God, and prefented to the eyes of the people; the other fpiritual, which he revealed to feventy of the Elders. And we know that thefe people had fuc-cellively, from one to the other, transferred the myfteries of their Sublime doctrine ; whence they called it Mercava, that is to fay, the fcience of transferring. It had for its object all things appertaining to intellectual matters. " By means of this fecret communication the fons were made heirs of their fathers' ineftimable treafures of divine fcience, and not only the Hebrews, but alfo the Chaldeans, Pythagoreans, and Druids, (ancient Philofophers of Gallia,) for the fpace of many centuries, were initiated in an occult manner into all ipiritual matters, without books or writings. By the Greeks it was called Agra-pha, now it is known by the original name Caballa. But as time perverts all things, the Hebrew Doctors infenfibly loft fight of this occult fcience, and by ill-placed curiofity, their Theologifts degenerated into Herefiarchs, their Af-tronomers into Judicial Aftrologers, their Logicians into Sophifts, their Natural Philofophers into Alchymifts, &c. and thus the fpcculative purfuits of the Hebrew Doctors p dwindled dwindled into what they call Allegories; hence the name Allegorical Caballifts, or Allegorifts. " Thefe Caballifts taught their followers, that the allegorical fenfe of writings is much fuperior to the literal, in as much as the latter is practical, whereas the other is fpeculative; the practical being embarrafied with circumstances of place and time, whereas the fpeculative exalts the foul to the knowledge of temporal, celeftial, and eternal objects, which are the images of the Divine immutability. " Finally, Allegorifts afcertain Caballas by the obferva-tion of letters, in which, after a great deal of labour, they fcarce produce any thing worthy of notice. cc The laft Caballa is divided into Gametria, Notarica, and Themura. The firft afcertaining the words by the tranfpofttion of the letters; the fecond fuppofes each letter to ftand for a word, or explains one word by another which contains an equal number of letters. And the Cabella Themuray which is likewife called Zi7~uph, confifts in interchanging the letters, and then fuppofing each of them to be equivalent to certain other letters. M The two latter will not anfwer my purpofe, becaufe of the number of letters of the chalice, and becaufe they are 8 only only ufed where there are but few letters, as may be inferred from the following infhinces: " In the fecond verfe of the third Pfalm, where we read Multi infurgunt adverjum me, the Caballa Not a-rica decyphers the word Multi, and fhews that in the Hebrew language it is written with R, B, \y M; which characters, after much fpeculative inquiry, are fuppofed to be the initials of the names of the Romans, Babylonians, Ionians, and Medes. In a few letters this Caballa might be applied ; the Romans made ufe of it in their epitaphs and other infcriptions, as we find by the letters S, P, Q^> R, which mean Senatus Populufque Romanics. ~ Thrown from the carelefs virgin's bread away, Lies faded on the plain, the living red, The fnowy white, and all its fragrance fled ; So from her cheeks the rofes dy'd away, And pale in death the beauteous Inez lay: With dreadful fmiles, and crimfon'd with her blood Round the wan victim the ftern murderers flood. O Sun, CQuldft'thou fo foul a crime behold, Nor veil thine head in darknefs, as of old, A hidden night unwonted horror call: O'er that dire banquet, where the fires repaft The foil's torn limbs fupplied ! — yet you, ye vales I Ye diftant forefts, and ye flowery dales! When pale and finking to the dreadful fall, You heard her quivering lips on Pedro call; Your faithful echoes caught the parting found, And Pedro ! Pedro ! mournful, figh'd around. Lnfiad^ book iiu On the twenty-fecond of June I fet out for Lifbon, accompanied by a muleteer. The evening before my departure I was viiited by the Reverend Abbot-general and feveral of the Superiors of the Convent; the former fent me a prefent of fweet-meats and fcented foap, curioufly made up in boxes by Nuns of the Bernardine order. Nothing occurred on our journey the firft day worthy of noting ; the country was tolerable, the foil rich and pretty well cultivated, but the accommodations at the inns were as indifferent as ufual; yet the mailers of thefe mi-ferable hovels think them palaces, in comparifon, to the inns in the other parts of the country. January 23. We met a number of peafants employed in making roads, the margins of which were planted with olive trees, whofe produce are to be applied to the keeping of the roads in repair. Spheric fun-dials and cifterns are are erected at ftated intervals for the accommodation of travellers.* The manners and opulence of the capital had a vifible effect on the inhabitants in proportion as we advanced. About one o'clock we arrived at Villa Franca, quite ex-haufted from the fcorching rays of the fun, to which wc had been expofed fince five o'clock in the morning. It was with difficulty we could get any refrefhment, as all the inhabitants of the village were gone to ileep. At five o'clock we embarked in a large paiTage-boat, and failed down the Tagus towards Lifbon. There were about fifty pafTengers on board, divided into two claffes; the common people occupied the hold, the reft took their feats at the ftern. About feven o'clock one of the boatmen gave the compline fignal, and all returned thanks to the Lord in a fhort prayer. Among thofe who fat at the ftern of the boat was a man, who had apparently miftaken his rank, if one may judge by his drefs; he was barefoot, wore a long beard, and a pilgrim's fcapulet over the remains of a Perfian habit: he was about thirty-fix years of age, of a middling ftature, well proportioned, of a fwar-thy complexion. I found by his language that he was a Spaniard. There was fomething in his manners that in-terefted me very much; his countenance was placid, and s befpoke befpoke a firmncfs of mind, fuch as we admire in a virtuous man ftrugglin£ with misfortune. I muft confefs DO D that he excited at once my pity and efteem ; and if Fate had not placed my lot fo much on a level with his own, he fhould not want a cloak to cover him, nor a crufade in his pouch. When we arrived at Lifbon, I requefted he would permit me to pay his paffage ; he thanked me, faying, " I " have change funicient for that purpofe ; it is true, my " apparel befpeaks poverty, (looking at his bare feet,) " therefore you may be furprifed that I had the prefump-" de.I/cinliu I? Hasp'foxs.'.l.isXiriil? S'F,I„ lio.l Moi'h' 1 •' r""v'"l/l,s":,r/'/"'' deJf Qmrt&doCampodeanq! 7 /'/"/,s':'i„,,h,t 9 S.Joad ttatBet»('iix*dos dii Esptr. i] I'm,;,i ,1, S.l'mlo tS i'nirn Joslif/milans /,/ I'i,i,;i ,/,< t'orpo ,S'(" io . hriiiiil tin Miuiu/iti it Chnv.deS.l'mii." Ti I'm,;,! dasArirniot'." !.i I'/;i,;,i ,//> !',>//,,i, i,i '„'/ . 11/it a,/<■,/, i 7.1 I'/;irii, In Rorio U> J'nu;n iIn Fii/mint 27 I'jiiiyt i In I'ft it no ■is S'-'t'iixn da Muni'' ii/ I'ntott daSFinn's ;in I'lurti lias linns Iiji'.'* j, Cn,i\'.",lnF..,< X,ii'iiiis,I, AndtUttjt 36 ijl'.'i/n Cms,In T. '7 /'tootinRiiiiilni .IS ill."i:'Jii/in :>(/ Hospital fO t'o/nli',lo!>'■>/ I'nhli,!,. I \l.,„ iflftf. hi,-i. I.ll ;„■/On,'. .-■ I" th,- Snui,.l // ttisteilo /,/!'", UtSk './;/ I.il/lt'lifo /; .S'.'lo/l't'olrnur'.'' Ci'mpoih'S'XIiim in Co 11\\,It 1 Or,tot ■ 1; y.S'l'ilo Motile Is or!ilnCivs,los'(' lino dos. l/oiims .'it Crtn.'ilr.liroios .'>:' S["J/>olto/ii,i S3 cji':'iiii{'i/nii'."(io Cues 64 .1In 1111111,>F. 11 irilo .'>."> .Il/it/iiln/ii ilo'I'iihiiro .)ti Vet-nin>I'tt/i/i, o .;; (> JI/1///111 /■;<„/s.i,l/> LISBON. Notwithftanding the city of Lifbon is the conftant refort of merchants and travellers from every part of the globe, yet it feems extraordinary that hitherto we have not been favoured with any fatisfactory account of its arts, antiquity, police, or public buildings. I fhall not attempt to fupply thefe points > the utmoft I can promife are a few curfory remarks on fuch objects as came within the narrow fphere of my obfervation, during a refidence of ten months in that city. Lifbon, the capital of Portugal, is feated upon the delightful banks of the Tagus, in the fruitful province of Eftremadura; latitude 38° 48'. Its diftance from the bar, where the Atlantic Ocean and the river form a junction, is about feven miles. The harbour is very deep and capacious, prefenting, to a mind devoted to commerce, one of the fineft profpe&s imaginable, as it is conftantly crowded with fhips of various nations. As we approach the capital, the churches, convents, caftles, villas, and gardens on the North-weft fide, have a grand and beautiful appearance; but the ideas of magnificence they excite at a diftance, are greatly diminifhed upon a clofer inflection. The country on the South-eaft s 2 fide fide is alfo highly picturefque, from its lofty mountains and high impending cliffs. The attention is foon drawn from thefe fcenes by the appearance of the city, which gradually afcends from the verge of the river in all the magnificence of wealth and grandeur. The fite is the moft eligible imaginable for a Metropolis ; towards the North-weft it is fheltered by a ridge of mountains, and opened towards the South-eaft." The buildings are raifed on feven hills, with their intermediate vallies; the greater part of which command a pro-fpecl of the river, and of the country on the oppofite fide, called Alenteju; any difadvantage, therefore, attending the inequality of the ground is compenfated by the beautiful profpecls its elevation afford, and its vicinity to the fea renders it at once delightful and healthy. The narrower!: part of the river Tagus, oppofite to the city, is computed at two miles Englifh, and at the broadeft part it is not lefs than nine. When we reflect on the advantages Portugal enjoys in point of commerce, from fuch a magnificent river and commodious harbour, fo happily fituated for trading with the Eaftern and Weftern hemifpheres, we cannot but wonder that Lifbon is not fuperior in riches, magnitude, and population to any capital in Europe. Here follows an account of the fhips of various nations which entered the port of Lifbon in the year one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. 3 from Portuguefe Ships. Names of Places. 3 from Bengal. 6 -Macao. 1 -Goa. 2 -other ports of Asia. 12 from all Asia. 23 - Bahia. 26 - Maranhaon. 13 -Para. 2 - Paraiba. 1 - Penaiba. 33 - Pernambuco. !6 - Rio Janeiro. 1 - Santos. 2 - Cape Verd. 117 -various ports of Europe. 6 Men of War. 252 Total number of Portuguese Ships. Foreign Ships. 75 from America. 4 - Bermude. 24-Denmark. ! - Geneva. 8X -France. xo - Hamburgh. 22 - Spain. ' 64 - Holland, including fix Men of War. 6 - Triest and Ostend. 5 - Lubec. Carried over 292 Foreign Ships. Names of Places. Brought over 292 7 from the King of Prussia's Dominions. 1 - Russia. j - Ragusa, 2 - Sweden. I2 *- Venice, 319 -■ Great Britain and Ireland, including 29 Packets and 4 Men of War. 640 Total number of Foreign Ships. Origin and Progrefs of Lifbon. The origin of Lifbon, like that of many other cities, is involved in obfcurity, though many Writers have attempted to develope it, among whom are not a few who do not, perhaps, deferve to be called Antiquaries; for the true Antiquary, like the Mathematician, will not proceed farther in his inveftigation than he is authorized by the light of connecting facts and conclusive reafoning. Some of the above Writers, however, have had the courage to proceed in the dark as far as the deluge ; but, unfortunately, the more they travel, the farther they appear to leave the truth behind. The opinion that moft generally obtains is, that Lifbon was founded by Ulyffes after the deftruclion of Troy, and 3 received received his name *• However that was, there is no doubt but a filiation fo inviting muft have been peopled very early. Its firft inhabitants, according to Pliny, were the ancient Turtuleans, from whom originated the modern Turtuleans of Andalufia, a brave and politic people, as the Celtic and Phoenician tribes experienced in all their contefts againft them in Spain. Among the other nations that fubdued Lufitania, the Romans are fuppofed to have peopled Lifbon fhortly after they conquered the Carthaginians. It appears that Julius Caefar made himfelf mafter of it, and diftinguifhed it by the title of Felicitas yulianay as may be collected from various infcriptions found in that city, which are publifhed in Cunha\ Ecclefiaftical Hiftory of Lifbon, * Lufus, the loved companion of the God, In Spain's fair bofom fixt his laft abode, Our kingdom founded, and illuftrious reign'd, In thofe fair lawns, the bleft Elyfium feign'd, Where winding oft the Guadiana roves, And Douro murmurs through the flowery groves. Here with his bones he left his deathlefs fame, And Lufitania's clime fhall ever bear his name. That other chief th' embroider'd filk difplays, Toft o'er the deep whole years of weary days, On Tago's banks at laft his vows he paid : To Wifdom's Godlike power, the Jove-born maid, Who fired his lips with eloquence divine, On Tago's banks he reared the hallowed fhrinc : TJlyjfes he, though fated to deftroy On Afian ground the Heaven-built towers of Troy, On Europe's ftrand, more grateful to the Aries, He bade th' eternal walls of Lifboa rife. Lufmdy book viii. About ■ About the year of our Lord four hundred and nine, the dominion of the Romans in Lufitania yielded to the in-vafion of the Alans, Suevi, and Vandals ; and thefe again, in their turn, in the year feven hundred and fixteen, fub-mitted to the fupcrior power of the Arabians who inhabited Spain. The latter changed the name of the capital, which till then was called Ulijipo, or Lifpo, to Liftboa:, becaufe, fays Caftro, that in the Mooriih alphabet the letter P is not ufed. Hence comes the word Lifboa> which we tranflate Lifbon. The firft check given to the Arabian power in Portugal was by Don Alfonfo the Chafte, King of Galicia and Afturia ; who, with the afliftance of Charlemain, in the year feven hundred and ninety-eight, invaded Portugal and inverted Liibon. The befieged, after a refolute refiftance, were compelled to yield to the arms of the Chriftian powers. During a period of near three hundred years, the Chriftians and Moors alternately retained a tranfitory polTeffion of it, till at length the latter became tributary to Alfonfo the Sixth of Caftile, in the year one thoufand and ninety-three. In this ftate of fubjection they continued under Count Henry, the fource of the Portuguefe monarchy, but revolted again under his fucceflbr Alfonfo Henrique, the firft Chriftian King of Portugal. This Prince made many attempts to reduce Lifbon, but in vain. Being one day on the the mountain of Centra he difcovered a fleet, confifting of near two hundred fail of Englifh, French, and Flemings, under the command of William Long Efpe> making towards the Tagus. They were deftined for the Lloly Land, but had touched here to water, and to repair the damages they received at fea. The King made propofals to them to aid him in capturing the city; to which they acceded ; and the troops on board, amounting to fourteen thoufand, were drawn up with the Portuguefe forces before the city. During five months the fiege continued with great Slaughter on both fides, when the confederate troops, on St. Urfala's Day, made a defperate affault, and carried the city fword in hand. According to Farria, the number of Infidels flain on this day amounted to two hundred thoufand. The moft authentic account of that fiege which, perhaps, has yet appeared, is contained in a letter written in the Latin tongue, in one thoufand one hundred and forty -feven, by a perfon of diftin&ion named Arnulfo, who was on board the combined fleet, to the Bifhop of Terona in France. It was difcovered among the manufcripts in the library of the Aquitenian Abbots in France, and is published in the collection of Jvlartene and Durand, torn. i. Yeterum Monwnentorum^ printed at Paris in the year one thoufand feven hundred and twenty-four. As that letter, perhaps, has not been hitherto publifhed in our language, we fhall attempt to give a translation of it, with the ad- t dition dition of Notes, for the fatisfaction of the curious in the mode of attack and defence practifed in ancient times. --<< On the Monday after Whitfuntidc we entered the bar of the river Douro, and anchored oppofite to Oporto. The Bifhop of this city, as if anticipating the orders of his King, was rejoiced at our arrival. Here we Hayed eleven days, waiting for the arrival of Count Ar-noldo de Ardefcoty and Chriftian the Confiabhy who had been feparated from us in a ftorm; during this time we were plentifully fupplied with provifion and delicacies of all kinds through the munificence of the Prince. " As foon as the Count and the Conflable arrived, we proceeded on our voyage ; in two days we reached the Tagus, on the vigils of the Apoftlcs St. Peter and St. Paul,, and anchored before Lifbon. This city, which, according to the tradition handed down to us by the Saracenic Hif-torians, was built by Ulyffes after the deftrnction of Troy,, is furrounded with walls of admirable conftruction, and has feveral towers upon a mountain impregnable to any human force. petrary, turbuchety fire, fimilar to that which was afterwards ivarioalfj and rnanganat all conftruoled called the Greek wildfire* The Turks t 2 made ftroyed them. They likewife made confiderable havoc among us with their arrows and mag?iellis. Our people were much difheartened from the wreck of the apparatus * and the fall of their companions ; yet, trufting to the mercy of God, they refumed their courage, and let about repairing the engines. " In the mean time the befieged were greatly diftrcffed for provifions; not but fome had abundance, yet they withheld it from the poorer clafs of the citizens in fuch a manner, that numbers of them died of hunger. Some, to preferve their lives, were conftrained to eat cats and dogs; a great part threw themfelves on the mercy of the Chriftians, and received the facrament of baptifm, whilft others were fent to the walls, with their hands cut off, and ftoned to death by their companions. Many other direful and fuccefsful fcenes incident to war were wit-neffed by us here, which, to avoid prolixity, we fhall not detail. made ufe of this fire in their wars with ihe crufadors, which they emitted from a machine called Petrary. It is reported to have burnt fo intenfely, that it confumed even flint and iron, and could not be ex-tinguifhed but by a mixture of vinegar, fand, and urine. Father Daniel fays, that Philip Auguftus, King of France, brought a quantity of this fire ready prepared from Acre, which he ufed at the fiege of Dieppe, for burning the Englifh vefiels then in die har* four* * Wreck of the apparatus.——'The ancients, in order to guard the tejludines ufed in filling ditches, covered the planks laid over the beams with flender green twig3, clofely interwoven ; and over thefe they laid doubled raw hides, fewed together, and fluffed either with fea-weeds, or clfe with llraw macerated in vinegar, by which means they refilled the attacks of the ba-liltoe and fire-brands. Vide Vitr. book I. c. 20. « Oa « On the day of the Nativity of the blefled Virgin Mary, an Italian of great ingenuity, a native of Pifo began to conftrucT a lofty tower of wood, in the place where the former one was deftroyed, in which the Englifh had been ported. This important work was completed about the middle of October, through the bounty of the King and the exertions of the armies. With equal exertions another engineer, affifted by many hands, were occupied in making excavations", in order to undermine the wall of the fortrefs. The Moors, apprehenfive of thefe operations, iallied out privately, and gave us battle over the mine, from three o'clock in the morning until the afternoon on the Feftival of St. Michael. " During this time we were warmly engaged with the Infidels, whilft our archers fo obftructed their retreat, that few or none of them efcaped without being wounded. Afterwards our people worked by day and night in the mines, which were finifhed and propped with wood at the appointed day on which the tower was to have been brought up, wherein the King in perfon, with the Englifh troops^ were to attack the walls. On the night of the Abbot St. Gallo the mine was fet on fire, and when the woodwork was confirmed *, the wall gave way, and made an opening of about two hundred feet in length. « The * When the iuood*work was confumed.— were generally prepared with combuftiblc The props and planks ufed in mines of this matter, fuch as pitch, tar, oil, and alfo fort for fupporting the incumbent earth, dry faggots thrown loofcly about j fo that 853>2°° 18 Secondary Dignitaries * 83,757,600 72 Prelates - 115,200,000 20 Canons - - 20,000,000 12 Beneficaries - - - 8,400,000 32 Second Beneficaries - 16,000,000 32 Inferior Beneficaries - - 8,000,000 5 Maflers of Ceremonies 520,000 7 Acolothifts - 350,000 29 Chaplains - 4,560,000 2 Treafarers - 180,000 2 Depofitories of the Sacrifty 220,000 1 Depofitory of the wax ftore - 140,000 20 Sacrifts - 1,488,000 Carried over 2S7,434>8°q y 2 Reis. Brought forward 287,434,800 17 Chaplains who celebrate mafs in the ancient Royal Chapels - 769,040 71 Italian and Portuguefe Chorifters 30,672,800 4 Organifts 520,000 1 Italian Compofer - 180,000 1 Door-keeper - 120,000 6 Wardens - - - - 320,000 12 Provedores - 360,000 4 Meffengers. - 80,000 6 Sweepers 267,840 2 Torch-bearers - 148,800 1 Goldimith - 640,000 2 Upholfterers - 412,800 1 Hair-drefTer - - 9,480 2 Bell-ringers with their affiftants 400,000 1 Modulator of the organs - 20,000 A Writer, an Illuminator, and an Engraver 600,000 12 Confeflbrs - 600,000 4 Preachers - - - - 94,000 Wax - 6,200,000 For painting the wax - 210,800 Proceffions, feats, and cleaning the Church 2,000,000 Cleaning and repairing the filver utenfils 250,000 Warning and making up the furniture 392,000 Repairing the linen - 120,000 Oil for forty-five lamps - 500,000 Wine ufed in the celebration of the mafles 150,000 Hons..... 24,000 Incenfe - 24,000 Charcoal • - • 20,000 Palm - $00,ooq Calendars 48,000 Carried over 334,188,360 Reis. Brought forward 334,188,360 St. Antony's offerings - 70,000 Green and red cloths - 60,000 Hanging the Church on feftival days • 236,000 School - - - - 1,800,000 Contingencies - ■ » - 800,000 Total 337,154,360 The aggregate of the above fums when reduced to pounds fterling will ftand thus: Reis. £. s. d. Total Annual Revenue 407,306,669 = 114,554 : 18 : 6 Total Annual Difburfements 337,154,360 = 94,824 : 11 : 6 70,152,309 = £. 19,730 17:0 Hence there appears a balance of nineteen thoufand feven hundred and thirty pounds and feven fhillings remaining in the funds for repairs, furniture, utenfils, and other contingencies. We do not include in the above eflimates the eftablifh-ment of the Patriarch, which is very confiderable on account of his great dignity. His Eminence takes precedence of all the Bifhops and Archbifhops of the kingdom, is Firft Chaplain to the King, and a Cardinal of the Con-fiftory at Rome. The principal revenue of his facred office arifes from the tribute of the general mines; he has 6 alfo- alio a large endowment in church lands, and five thoufand fix hundred and twenty-five pounds fterling a-year out of the Royal Treafury. At the loweft computation we may ftate the whole at thirty thoufand pounds per annum- Then the total amount of the eftablifhment of the Patriarchal Church will be 144,554/. i8j. 6d, Loretto. The Loretto Church, built by the Pope's Nuncio a few years ago, is held in high eftimation for its architecture ; but its admirers muft fee excellencies in it that I could not perceive ; and I am inclined to fufpecl: that any reputation it has obtained in that refpect is owing, not to its intrinfic merit, but from its being defigned in Italy. In the days of Palladio this would have been a ftrong recommendation; we cannot, however, allow that privilege to the Italians of the prefent age, whofe tafte in architecture is funk as low as that of moft other nations of Europe, by the Bor-romini, the Bibiena, and their difciples, the modern Van-xlals of that degenerated nation. Ncrvekfs in Jlotb, enfeebling arts thy boaft, Oh I Italy, how fallen, how low, how lojl! Camoens* There are feveral labourers employed in finking the mountain juft by this Church, for the purpofe of building dwelling-houfes; and it is curious to obferve, that as far as they have hitherto funk, which in fome parts is about thirty thirty feet, they found nothing but a reddifh clay, or fand, mixed with ftrata of petrified fhells, chiefly of the crufta-ceous kind. Several hundred cart-loads of thefe fhells have been cleared away from this fpot; the height of which above the fea apparently is not lefs than three hundred and fifty feet. As we arc in the neighbourhood of the Francifcan Church, we cannot help noticing the infcriptional ftone placed in the North-caff, angle of it. There is another,, of a fimilar nature, in the front of the Carmo Church* We fhall not annex their fublime contents ; for the honour of our holy religion we wifh they were taken down *y or if that be contrary to the prefcriptions or laws of thefe Churches, perhaps there is no law in force againft turning them in fide out. Church of St. Rogue* This Church formerly belonged to the Jefuits. There is nothing in the architecture very remarkable for excellence of defign or execution, though indeed it may be juftly confidered a very neat Church. The walls and ceiling exhibit fome good pictures in frefco. But what is moft deferving of attention is a fmall Chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptift, the moft valuable of its fize, perhaps, in Europe. Among the materials with which it is decorated, we obferve lapis lazuli, Oriental granite, por-11 phyry, phyry, amethyft, alabafter, verde antique, corallino, fciena and carara marbles. There are alfo three beautiful pictures in it, executed in mofaick in a maflerly manner; one is placed in a deuxtyle over the altar, reprefenting the Baptifm of our Saviour; the other two, namely, the Annunciation and the Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, are placed one at each fide of the altar. The floor is likewife of mofaick, embellifhcd with borders of trtillage, and an armillary fphere in the centre. The columns and dado of the altar are of lapis lazuli; the table of the latter is fupported at the angles by cherubs of filver, and accompanied by two lofty candelabri of the fame metal. The fhafts of the columns are formed into ftriae by fillets of gold. According to thofe who rate the expence of thefe precious appendages at the loweft, they coft two millions of crufados, or two hundred and twenty-five thoufand pounds fterling. They were executed at Rome by the moft eminent artifts of that city, at the defire of King John the Fifth, who prefented them to the Jefuits of St. Roque, in the year one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-one. Every admirer of the fine arts muft regret to find fuch admirable productions fqueezed into an obfcure chapel or cell, not more than feventeen feet long by twelve broad, at the fide of the church. New New Church. The New Church, built by her prefent Majeftv, is the largeft and moft magnificent edifice raifed in Lifbon fince the fatal earthquake. It is faid to have coft five millions of crufados-y that is, five hundred and fixty-two thoufand five hundred pounds fterling. The plan is in the form of a crofs, and runs nearly Eaft and Weft: indeed the Portuguefe, in founding their Churches, are not very particular in this refpect. They generally adapt the afpect to the fituation, a cuftom worthy of our imitation ; as that great Being, in honour of whom they are raifed, is equally prefent at the North and the South, at the Eaft and the Weft. The centre is crowned with a magnificent dome of hewn ftone rifing over the quadrangle at the interferon of the nave and tranfept, which is gradually formed into a circle by pendentives fpringing from the angles of the piers. In point of execution this dome has great merit; and no wonder; for where fhall we meet with fuch excellent ftone-cutters as in Portugal ? Perhaps not in Europe. Truth will not allow us, however, to fay as much for its architects. In the whole Church, indeed, as far as relates to thefe artifans, there is nothing to cenfure, and but very little z to to praife that relates to the architect:. We fhall take no notice of the towers, nor of the ball that crowns the cupola; a little knowledge of optics or perfpective might have remedied what is amifs in both: but in the diftribution of the compofite tetraftylev the arcade and the logia of the Eafl front, nothing more was required to make them as they ought to be, than a moderate knowledge of the rules of architecture. The columns of the former, inftead of fup-porting the fuperftructure, fuftain but a diminifhed entablature, and even this is intermitted ; hence, the columns are of no real or apparent ufe whatever. An Athenian would imagine they were expofed there for fale; and the Italian who, not long fince, prompted by an itch for paf* quinading, potted the following couplet on one of the columns of a great manfion in the neighbourhood of Saint James's in London, might apply it, with equal propriety, to the above columns: Care Colonne, che fatte la ? Non io fappiamo in verita ! Tell me, dear Columns, why do you fland fo ? Indeed, Mr. Pafquin, we really don't know 1 Cemetery of the Britifh Factory. The Cemetery, or Burying-ground, belonging to the Britifh Factory, is fituated at the North-weft fide of the city, and is the only expofed Burying-ground in Lifbon. The TRAVELS IN PORTUGA L 1 Jt The natives, and all others of the Catholic communion who die here, are interred in the cryptical tombs of the churches. When the corpfe is repoiited, it is ftrewed with lime, to di Solve it the more fpeedily, and to prevent any unpleafant fmell. The difeafed, according to law, muft not remain difin-terred more than four-and-twenty hours -y a very falutary regulation, called for by the heat of the climate; for, admitting it were poftible that one in a thoufand might be brought to life by continuing unburied, as with us, for the fpace* of five or fix days, it is more than probable, that thoufands would fall a facrifice to the experiment. This Burying-ground was affigned to the Englifh about the year one thoufand fix hundred and fifty-five, agreeably to the fourteenth article of the Treaty of Alliance concluded between England and Portugal in the time of Oliver Cromwell. The fame article alfo includes the rcftridions to which the Englifh are fubjeel with regard to the exercife of their religion. Here is a copy of it: " And forafmuch as the rights of peace and commerce 14 would be null and ufelefs, if the people of the Republic " of England fhould be difturbed for confciencefakc, " when they pafs to and from the kingdoms and domi-" nions of the faid King of Portugal, or refide there for ** the fake of exchanging their merchandize. That com- z 2 " merce " merce may, therefore, be free and fecure both by land " and fea, the faid King of Portugal (Trail take effectual cc care, and provide, that they be not molefted by any " perfon, court, or tribunal, upon account of the faid r Article VIII. u That if any of the people of this " Republic fhall die within the kingdoms and dominions of " the moft Serene King of Portugal, the books, accounts-, *c goods, and affets belonging to them, or to others of the " people of this Repulic, fhall not be feized nor pofleffed <& by the judges of the orphans and perfons abfent, or by " their minifters and officers; nor fhall they be liable to: cc their jurifdiction ; but the fame goods, merchandize, " and accounts fhall be delivered to the Englifh factors or " procurators refiding in that place, who are nominated *c or deputed by the deceafed : but if the defunct, whilft <£ living, did not nominate any, then the faid goods, mer-u chandize, and accounts fhall, by the authority of the " Judge Confervator, be delivered to two or more Englifh " merchants refiding in the place, and approved of by " the Englifh Conful, after having given fecurity, by un-" exceptionable bondfmen, (who fhall alfo be approved " by the fame Englifh Conful,) for reftoring the faid goods, " merchandize, and accounts to the right owners, or to tl their true creditors; and the goods which fhall appear " to have been the deceafed's, fhall be delivered to his " heirs, executors, or creditors." Article XIII. c< That none who are commonly " called Alcaydes, (/. e. Bailiffs,) or any other officers of " his Royal Majefty, fhall feize or arreft any of the people " of this Republic, of what rank or condition foevery " except ^56 5 4 Raw Silk 621 6 8 Thrown Silk, undyed 792 10 0 Brandy 4,605 18 0 Vinegar 459 3 9 Wine -s - 43,821 10 q Small Articles 1,146 11 o £- 99>557 2 2 * What is here called Pot AQies, is in ga\*e it that name on account of the war-reality Barilla from Spain ; probably they The wine alfo is partly Spanifti. »• f 1 Imports* Imports. Value. £• J. Beef 19,118 0 0 Butter * 105,846 11 3 Candles 729 4 2 Cheefc i,5ot 7 6 pifh • 1,118 10 0 Tanned Hides * 4>55° ° 0 Linen Cloth 5,850 14 if Pork 7*374 0 0 Small Articles 299 l9 3t £. 146,388 6 4 Obfervations on the Manners and Cufloms of Portugal. The Inhabitants of Lifbon may be ranked under four elaffes; viz. the Nobility, the Clergy, the Traders, and the Labouring People. The obfervations I am about to offer on each clafs contain very little more than may be collected by every one in the ftreets or the roads, in markets or cottages. To proceed in the moft natural order, we fhould begin with the pcdeftals of the ftate; but for once, we fhall reverfe the order of the ftructure, and commence with what is called " the Corinthian " Capitals of polifhed Society." * Part of the above articles were for hides, particularly, could not be for the ufe Spain, but not mentioned on account of of Portugal, as the importation of them is the wax with Great Britain. The tanned prohibited in that country. The Nobility may be confidered as a body entirely dif-tincT from the other three; the principal affairs of the ftate are committed to their truft • they refide in the capital, or its environs, and feldom viiit their eftates in the provinces. They efteem it an honour to be born in the capital, and alfo to dwell there. They are educated like-wife at Lifbon, in a college founded for that purpofe by King JoTeph, Hence it is called the Colkgio dos Nobres, the College of Nobles. Prior to the eftablifhment of this^ col leg they were educated at Coimbra, a place apparently much better adapted for that purpofe ; as it poflefies many advantages not to be found in a commercial city. The fragrance of the air, the ftillnefs of the country, and the delightful profpefts with which Coimbra abounds, are great incitements to ftudy; bcfides, it is enriched with immenfe literary treafures, the accumulation of ages; and its buildings are very magnificent. Now, the feminary at Lifbon is deficient in all thefe points. It appears, therefore, that the Nobility have made a bad exchange. There is a wide difference between a College of Nobles and a noble College. The Nobility, comparatively fpeaking, arc not very rich ; for though their patrimonies are large, their rents are fmall. I doubt if any of them has ever feen a map of hi3 eftatc, or exactly knows its boundaries. If ever they deign to turn their attention towards the conftruding of roads and canals, and not conftder agriculture a purfuit 11 unworthy ■i9S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. unworthy of Gentlemen, they will become the richeft Nobility in Europe, on account of the vaft extent of their landed poffeflions. In the diftribution of their fortunes they fhew great prudence without the appearance of parfimony. A country wherein there are no race-horfes, licenfed gambling houfes, or expenfive miftreffes, a Gentleman may live fplendidly upon a moderate income; fortunately thefe allurements to diflipation are unknown to them. Nor do they excite the envy of the poor by midnight orgies or gilded chariots. Their time is fpent between their duty at court, and the focial enjoyments of private parties. The fine arts, which to the fuperior claffes of every nation of Europe arc fources of the moft refined pleafure, are almoft entirely neglected by the Nobility of this country; neither do they appear to take much pleafure in the cultivation of the fciences, though they poffefs moft excellent capacity for both. Their lives are an even tenor of domeftic felicities, not remarkable for brilliant actions, and but rarely ftained by vice. The fame of their ilhiftri-ous anceftors juftly entitle them to every honour and re-fpecT; but whilft they glory in the remembrance of their achievements, they feem to forget their maxims. It muft be allowed, however, that they pofTefs many amiable qualities. They are religious, temperate, and generous, faithful to their friends, charitable to the diftreffed, and warmly attached attached to their Sovereign; whofe approbation, and a peaceful retirement, conftitute the greateft happinefs of their lives. With refpect to the Clergy, I was not furnifhed with information fufficient to form an accurate eftimate of their true character, and I fhall not prefume to fpeak from re-pott of fo rcfpectable a body. Among thofe with whom I had the honour to be acquainted, I found fome pofTeffed of great liberality and talents; in proof of this I need only mention his Grace the Bifhop of Beja, whofe piety and learning would do honour to the Apoftolic or Auguftan ages. I might alfo inftance the Abbe Correa chaplain to his Grace the Duke de Alafoens, and Father de Souza author of feveraL pieces on the Arabic language. There are feveral other men of eminent talents among the Clergy, but concealed in gloomy cells; and what is extraordinary, the greater are their talents the more careful are they in fecluding themfclves from all communication with the world. It may be afked then,, why they do not oblige the world with fome of their acquirements ? The reafon is very obvious; the Portuguefe language is fo little known, that there is little or no fale for books written in that language out of the country, and in it, reading is very far from being general; very few books therefore will defray the expence of printing and paper, efpecially if they treat on fcientific fubjects. Thus are are men of letters deterred from making;; themfelves known through this laudable channel, and the world is deprived of their experience and wifdom. It is true, that in all the learned profeffions, men will be found who would render more fervice to the community in an humbler fphere, and among the Clergy there are, I am forry to add, but too many of this defcription; who are better calculated by nature and education to follow the tail of the plough, than to difcharge the important ties of that facred profeflion. The Merchants are remarkably attentive to bufinefs, and, as far as I could learn, jufl and punctual in their dealings : they live on a friendly footing with the foreign traders who refide here, particularly the Englifh. Bankruptcies are feldom known among them, and they are careful in avoiding litigations; for it is a well known fact, that the Gentlemen of the long robe in Portugal are not to be furpaffed even by their brethren of the Englifh Court of Chancery, in the art of protracting a fuit. A Lifbon merchant pafles his hours in the following manner: he goes to prayers at eight o'clock, to 'Change at eleven, dines at one, fleeps till three, eats fruit at four, and fups at nine : the intermediate hours are employed in the counting-houfe, in paying vilits, or playing at cards. To To vifit any one above the rank of a tradefmen, it is neceflary to wear a fword and chapeau; if the family you vifit be in mourning, you muft alfo wear black ; the fervants would not confider a vifitant as a gentleman unlets he came in a coach; to vifit in boots would be an unpardonable offence, unlefs you wear fpurs at the fame time. The mafter of the houfe precedes the vifitant on his going out, the contrary order takes place in coming in. The common people of Lifbon and its environs are a laborious and hardy race; many of them by frugal living lay up a decent competence for old age; it is painful to behold the trouble they are obliged to take for want of proper implements to carry on their work. Their cars have the rude appearance of the earlieft ages; thefe vehicles are flowly drawn by two ftout oxen. The corn is fuelled by the treading of the fame animals as in the days of the Ifraelites; hence probably the fcripture proverb, u thou iC fhalt not muzzle the ox that treadeth the corn." They have many other cuftoms which to us appear very lingular; for example, women fit with the left fide towards the horfe's head when they ride, A poftilion rides on the left horfe. Footmen play at cards whilft they are waiting for their mafters. A taylor fits at his work like a fhoemaker. A hair-dreffer appears on Sundays with a fword, a cockade, and two watches, or at leaft two watch-chains. A tavern k known by a vine bufh. A houfe to be let, by a piece d d of of blank paper. An accoucheufe door, by a white crofs, And a Jew is known by his extra catholic devotion. The lower clafs of both fexes arc very fond of gaudy apparel; we obferve even the fifh-women with trinkets and bracelets of gold about the neck and wrift. The fruit-women are diftinguifhed by a particular drefs. In plate IX. figure A, we have given the reprefentation of one of them, with the afs by which the fruit is conveyed to the market. The cuftom of wearing boots and black conical caps is peculiar to thefe women; but for what reafon, if any there be, I could not learn. Figure B, in the fame plate, is a reprefentation of a woman of Beira in the ufual drefs of the females of that province. And figure C is a fketch of a female peafant of the province of Alenteju. All the drudgery is performed by Gallicians, who may be called the hewers of wood and drawers of water of this metropolis; they are patient, induftrious, and faithful to a proverb. One of the principal employments, in which they are daily engaged, is fupply ing the citizens with water, which they carry on their fhoulders in fmall wooden barrels from the different fountains. Every Gallician in this fervitude is obliged, by the police of the city, to carry one of thefe vefTels filled with water to his lodgings every night, and in cafe of fire, to 8 haften haften with it to affift in extinguifhing the flames at the firft found of the fire bell ; any neglect in this refpect is feverely punifhed; on the contrary, they are fure to be rewarded in proportion to their vigilance. But the people are feldom vifited by that dreadful fcourge: during my refidence here, there was not an inftance of any accident by fire. In the houfes of foreign merchants, the Gallicians are the only fervants employed, and many of the Portuguefe prefer them to the natives in that capacity ; they cook the victuals, clean the rooms, and make the beds. If there be any female fervants in the houfe under the age of five and thirty, they are invifible except to the miftrefs and her daughters; after this age they are left to their own difcre-tion, as their charms are then fuppofed to be fufflciently faded to render them fecure from the invafions of gallantry. The Ladies feldom breathe the pure air, except in their fhort excurfions to the next chapel, which they vifit at leaft once a day. The figures hereunto annexed (plate X.) are reprefentations of a Merchant with his wife and maid-fervant going to church. Their refpective drefs may be inferred from thence. They walk exactly in the order in which they are here reprefented, that is to fay, one after the other; hence we thought it reafonable to facrifice to truth the rules of picturefque grouping. d d 2 The The Portuguefe Ladies poffefs many amiable qualities; they are chafte, niodeft, and extremely affectionate to their kindred. No woman goes out of doors without the per-miflion of her hufband or parents. To avoid all fufpicion, men, even though relations, are not allowed to vifit their apartments, or to fit befide them in public places. Hence their lovers are feldom gratified with a fight of them except in the churches; here they make fighs and fignals : Addrefs and compliment by vifion, Make love and court by intuition. Hudibras. Notwithftanding the watchful eye of the Duenna, the lovers contrive to exchange billet-doux, and that in fo fubtle a manner, that none can perceive it whofe bread glows not with a fimilar flame. The little boys who attend at the altar, are often the meffengers on thefe occa-fions. When one of thefe winglefs cupids receives the letter, he makes his way through the audience till he approaches the fair one, then he throws himfelf on his knees, repeating his Ave Maris Jlella, and beating his breaft; after finifhing his ejaculations and croffing his forehead, he falls on his face and hands, and fervently kifles the ground; in the mean time he conveys the letter under the Lady's drapery and brings back another. At other times when the lovers are coming out of the church, their hands meet as it were by chance in the holy water font; by this means they exchange billets, 4 and and enjoy the delectable pleafure of preffing each other's fingers. Various are the contrivances to which they are compelled to refort, in order to elude fufpicion; and in no part of their lives do they evince more prudence than during their courtfhip. Their natural difpofition to fe-crecy is the means of their continuing for years under the impreflion of the tender paffion; and they muft have fallen victims to it, were it not that refined, that virtuous love which Guevara defcribes. Arde y no quetna ; alumbra y no danna; quema y no confume, refplende y no lajlima, purifica y no abrafa ; y aun calienta y no congoxa. It glows, but fcorches not; it enlightens, but hurts not; it confumes not, though it burns; it dazzles not, though it glitters; it refines without deftroying; and though it be hot, yet it is not painful. Marriage-feafts are attended with vaft expence ; the re-fources of the lower clafs are often exhaufted in the preparations made on thefe occafions. The nuptial bedchamber is ornamented in the moft coftly manner, with filks, brocades, and flowers; even the wedding-fheets are trimmed with the fineft lace. In In their chriftenings and funerals alfo they are very extravagant ; but in other refpects very frugal and temperate, particularly the females, who feldom drink any thing but water; if they drink wine, it gives rife to fufpicion of their chaflity, and fufpicion is often held tantamount to a crime. The Emprefs Dona Leanor, daughter of Edward King of Portugal, endeavoured to introduce the like cuf-tom among the German Ladies ; but neither her Majefty's example or perfualion could induce them to exchange the u milk of Venus1' for the limpid rill. The abflemioufncfs of the Portuguefe Ladies is confpi-cuous in their countenance, which is pale, tranquil, and modeft ; thofe who accuftom themfelves to exercife have, neverthelefs, a beautiful carnationTheir eyes are black and expreflive; their teeth extremely white and regular. In converfation they are polite and agreeable; in manners affuafive and unaffected. The form of their drefs does not undergo a change, perhaps, once in an age; milliners, perfumers, and fancy-drefs-makers are profeffions as unknown in Lifbon as in ancient Laccdemon. Widows are allowed to marry, but they do not avail themfelves of that privilege as often as in other countries. There are many Portuguefe, particularly thofe of the good old ftock, who look upon it as a fpecies of adultery fanc-tioncd by the law. Women Women do not affume the family-names of their huf-bands, as with us. In all the viciffitudes of matrimony they retain their maiden names. The men arc generally addrefTed by their Chriftian names, as Senhor Pedro. Supernomes. are alfo very common here, which are derived from particular trades, remarkable incidents, places of refidence, or ftriking per-fonal blemifhcs or accomplifhments. Strangers' furnames are frequently tranflated, efpecially if they bear any allufion to fubftantives or qualities. For example, Mr. Wolf, they call Senhor Lobo; Mr. Whitehead, Senhor Cabeca Branca. To the Chriftian names of men and women are often fuperadded thofe of their parents, for diftindtion fake. This cuftom obtained very much among the ancient Irifh, and is not unufual at this day in the Southern provinces of that country. With refpecl to the middling clafs, in their ideas and manners they differ from thofe of the reft of Europe; the unfrequency of travel, except to their own colonies, excludes them from modern notions and modern cuftoms hence they retain much of the ancient fimplicity of their anceftors, and are more converfant in the tranfa&icns of Afia or America than of Europe. Whether ■ Whether it proceeds from a fondnefs for eafe, or want of curiofity, they appear to have an averfion for travelling, even in their own country. A Portuguefe can fteer a fhip to Brazil with lefs difficulty than he can guide his horfe from Lifbon to Oporto. People, thus eftranged from the neighbouring nations, are naturally averfe from the influx of mere theoretical doctrines, which tend to difturb the tranquillity of efla-blifhed opinions. They exclude at once the fources of modern luxuries and refinements, modern vices and improvements. Hence their wants, comparatively fpeaking, are but few, and thefe are eafily fatisfied ; their love of eafe exempts them from many paflions to which other nations are fubject; grofs offences are rarely known among them, but when once offended they are not eafily appeafed; paflions that are feldom roufed act with the greater violence when agitated ; under this impreffion individuals have fometimes been hurried to violent acts of revenge ; but now, the vigilance of the magiftrates, and the growth of civilization have blunted the point of the dagger. The temperance of the people, and their exemption from hard labour ; the fragrance of the air, and the number of mineral fprings with which the country abounds, are are circumftances fo favourable to the human conititu-tion, that we fhould naturally expect to find the Portuguefe live to a great age, yet there are not many remarkable inftances of longevity among them; but there are fewer cut off by natural caufes before the age of three-fcore, than among an equal number, perhaps, in any other part of Europe. One rarely meets a Portuguefe, however aged, crippled with the gout, or bowed with infirmity. The handfomeff perfons of both fexes are found in the province of Eftremadura; that fcourge of beauty, the fmall pox, does not rage here with the fame violence as in cold climates. The inhabitants neglect one thing, which, in a country like this, would tend to expand the human frame to its full perfection, I mean bathing; neither do they take exercife enough for the prefervation of health. The lower clafs are endowed with many excellent qualities , they are religious, honeft, and fober, affectionate to their parents, and refpectful to their fuperiors. We muft not, however, expect to find them pofTeffed of thefe qualities on the verge of fea-port towns, as their manners are there corrupted by mingling with refugee adventurers from various nations. Strangers, therefore, are often mifled," who form the character of the people through this adulterated medium. It is in the country only they can E i be *fp' TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL be found, uninfluenced by foreign manners or foreign customs, in their true national ftate; and there we behold them honeft, obliging, affable, and mannerly, A Portuguefe peafant will not walk with a fuperior, an aged perfon, or a ftrangcr, without giving him the right-hand fide, as a mark of refpect. He never paffes by a human being without taking off his- hat, and faluting him in thefe words, the Lord preferve you for many years* In fpeaking of an abfent friend, he fays, morro com faudades de o ver : I die with impatience to fee him. Of a morning, when he meets the companions of his toil in the field, he falutes them in a complaifant manner, and inquires after their little families. His day's work is computed from the rifing of the Sun' to its fetting ; out of which he is allowed half an hour for breakfaft and two hours for dinner, in order to refrefh himfelf with a nap during the meridian heat. If he labour in the vineyard, he is allowed a good portion of wine. When his day's work is over he fings vefpers, and on Sunday he attunes his guitar, or joins in a fandango dance, as reprefented in Plate XL His male children are educated in the neighbouring convent, whence he alfo receives fuftenance for himfelf and family, if diftrefTed or unable to work. They all imagine their country is the bleffed Elyfium, and that Lifbon is the greateft city in the world. In their proverbial language they fay, u he who has not feen Lifbon has feen nothing." Indeed they have proverbs for almoft every thing, which, being founded on long experience, are generally true,, though 33360^843337^53^^97^10745^793700 O7 4 TRAVELS IN PORTUGA L. 21 X though the above is a ftriking inftance to the contrary. Of the countries which, like their own, do not produce corn, wine, and oil, they entertain but a mean opinion. They picture to themfelves the mifery of the inhabitants of Northern climates, who fhudder in the midft of froft and fnow, whilft they themfelves are bafking in their green fields. Thefe circumftances, and the affectionate attachment they have for their King, endear them to their native foil. They centre a great portion of their happinefs in the fine climate with which nature has blefTed them, and the abundance of delicious fruit the foil yields with little labour. Under every misfortune they are fure to find con-folation in religion; and next to thefe divine favours, mufic is the greateft folace of their lives: it difiipates the forrows of the poor man, and refines the fentiments of the rich ; life glides on agreeably amidft fuch endearing fcenes. It would be vain to perfuade a Portuguefe that he could enjoy fuch happinefs in any other part of the globe : he is nurtured in this opinion, and if chance or misfortune fhould impel him into a foreign land, he pines as if in a ftate of captivity. A fhort time before I left Lifbon I dined at a Spanifh ordinary, near the convent of St. Francis, in company with a gentleman who was a native of Malta, and a Knight of that Order. The univerfality of his information, and the liberality of his remarks, induced me to e e 2 requeft requeft his opinion refpecting the Portuguefe. Thefe are his obfervations on that head, as nearly as I can recollect: " There are no people in Europe, Sir, whofe real character is lefs known than thofe of Portugal; for as their language is but little ftudied or underitood, our knowledge of them is derived chiefly from the Spanifh writers, and a Spaniard is rarely known to fpeak favourably of the Portuguefe. The latter, on the contrary, whatever might be their real opinion of the former, are induced by the precepts of Chriftian charity to fpeak refpectfully of them. Of this we have a ftriking inftance in Jofeph Texera, a Portuguefe Friar of the Dominican Order. This Friar lived in the fixteenth century, and was confeflbr to Don Antonio, heir prefumptive to the crown of Portugal, whom he followed into France. He there declared from the pulpit, inone of his Sermons, that we are hound in duty to love all men, of whatever religion, feci, or ndtiony even the Caftilians. M From the political enmity which for ages have fub-fi(led between the two rival powers, it is probable that the accounts we receive of the Portuguefe through the medium of the Spaniards are not altogether to be depended upon. On the other hand, if we take the character of the Portuguefe from the native writers, we fhall imagine they pof-fcfs not only all the good qualities in exiftence, but are 5 exempted exempted from all the bad ones. This is like a painter vainly attempting to produce a fine picture without fhadows. " From the beft information I can collect, the ancient Portuguefe have been a brave, active, and generous people. At a time when the other nations of Europe were funk in floth and ignorance, they were employed in propagating Chriitianity, in extirpating Infidelity, and enlarging our knowledge of this fphere. cc Neceflity, the parent of action, was the fource of all their great enterprifes; attacked on one fide by a powerful and reftlefs neighbour, on the other by the Moors, who had long infefted the country, their incurfions and confpiracies required the exertions of every finew of the ftate to preferve its independence. At length the horde of Infidels were expelled, and the pride of the Caftilians humbled. " In the reign of John the Firft, when the Portuguefe found themfelves fecure from foreign or domeftic foes, their troops then inured to fatigue, and their Captains, animated by military fame, purfued the Barbarians into Africa. Their contefts in this quarter, though unprofitable, and almoft ruinous to the ftate, were ultimately attended with confequences very fortunate for the powers of of Europe; as they diffufed a fpirit of enterprife which afterwards led to all the modern difcoveries in navigation. " The Luiltanian foldiers were brave and hardy, in-nured to all the hardfhips of war, fatigue, hunger, and thirft, which they bore with great patience in the hotteft climates* In the field their courage bordered on rafhnefs; their natural impetuofity could never be reftrained even by the moft rigid military difcipline ; they were too ambitious of fignalizing their valour out of the ranks, by which they fometimes caufed their defeat in deranging the order of battle; but when they fought in a phalanx, the enemy found them invincible. " The riches of Alia, the relaxation of difcipline, together with the ignorance and rapacity of the Governors of India, at length corrupted the manners of the foldiers, and defaced every trace of their ancient character. " Every department of the ftate was haftening to ruin, when King Sebaftian afcended the throne; in him, as their laft refuge, were centered the hopes of the people; and the tokens of virtue and courage he had given them in the early part of his life, feemed to promife the accomplifh-ment of their expectations : he certainly inherited a great portion of the valour of his anceftors, though time evinced that he poffefTed but very little of their prudence. No Prince Prince was ever more enamoured with a love of fame, nor fought a more indirect road towards the attaining of it. The happinefs of his people is what conftitutes the real fame of every Monarch ; yet this was the leaft of Sebaftian's purfuit. The vain glory of excelling in arms occupied his fole attention, and that glory he promifed to himfelf in the plains of Africa: but, alas! he, and the greater part of thofe who accompanied him thither, found there not laurels, but an untimely grave. cc The death of this Prince would have been the lets regretted, if he had not left a fucceiTor to fill the throne who was in the decline of life and underftandirig, without energy, without abilities to heal the bleeding wounds of his expiring country. Providence, apparently, feeing its diffolution approach, fent a Cardinal King to give it the dying benediction. Thus we find that ftates, like individuals, have their infancy, maturity, and decline; and what is not a little remarkable of this, it commenced with a Henry, and with a Plenry it expired. The firft was a hero and a flatefman, the latter poiTeffed neither of thefe qualities, nor fupplied the want of them by his wifdom. <£ Philip the Second now appended the crown of Portugal to that of Spain. It had been the invariable policy of this Prince, and of his fucceflbrs, to render Portugal fub-fervient by reducing its refources, which they were carrying into effect every day, till at length the Portuguefe, no 6 longer longer able to bear the chains of their foreign matters, revolted; and, by their refolution and unanimity, fupplied the want of forces in catting off their bondage; and ever fince, the kingdom is gradually advancing to profperity under its native and lawful Sovereigns. c< It is evident, however, that the advancement/of the country is by no means proportionate to its vaft refources; nor is the ancient military fpirit of the people yet revived. Some remains of the courage of their anceftors may ftill linger among them; but the contempt in which they hold the profeffion of arms is fufficient to extinguifh every ipark of military enterprife. For feveral years paft they have admitted officers into the regiments of infantry without talents or education, whofe ignorance multiplied abufes and relaxed difcipline. The abufe at length advanced to that degree, that officers were appointed from among the domeftics of noble families. When Count de Lippe was appointed Commander in chief of the forces of the kingdom, he endeavoured to eftablifh the dignity of the profeffion. One day he happened to dine with a Portuguefe Nobleman, who was a Colonel in the fervice; one of the fervants who attended at table was dreffed in an officer's uniform: on inquiry, he found this attendant was a Captain in a regiment of infantry; on which the gallant Commander immediately rofe up and infifkd upon the military fervant's fitting at table next himfelf. « It M It has always been the policy of the wifeft Generals to preferve a degree of honourable dignity in the army • for pride is as commendable in a foldier as humility in a prieft; but fervility and military fpirit are incompatible. This was the Count de Lippe's maxim; and fuch was his zeal for the honour of the profeffion, that he declared openly it was a difhonour to an officer not to demand, or refufe to give, fatisfaction for an offence. " Since the reign of Jofeph the Firft, there has been a great change for the better, not only in the army, but in almoft every other department of the ftate. When that Prince afcended the throne, agriculture and manufactures were fo much neglected, that the people depended upon foreign nations for food and raiment; the arts were de-fpifed, and the revenues unproductive. The Englifh, pur-fuant to the Methuen treaty, fupplied the Portuguefe with woollen cloths, in exchange for which they were to receive the wines of the country. The encouragement held out by this treaty for the growth of wine, and the facility which long experience has given the Portuguefe in that branch of hufbandry, induced the farmers to neglect the cultivation of corn, and convert their fields into vineyards; thus the grape increafed in proportion as the grain di-minifhed. " This was partly the ftate of Portugal when King Jofeph appointed Senhor Carvalho, afterwards Marquis de f f Pombal, Pombal, his Prime Minifter. The adrniniftration of this great ftatefman forms an epoch in the annals of Portugal, He endeavoured, and not in vain, to direct the attention of the people to their real intereft ; the landholders were compelled to diminifh their vineyards, and appropriate a third part of them to grain and other fpecies of culture, This wife regulation was attended with fuch falutary effects, that to this day it is confidered one of the moft beneficial acts of his adrniniftration. h " As the natural refult of agriculture is population, he prepared employment for the rifing generation, by efta-blifhing manufactories of different kinds; induftry thus excited, the country began to wear a new face; the merchant engroffed the trade heretofore carried on by foreigners, and the farmer fed and clothed himfelf and his family with the produce of his native foil. " The Marquis's efforts, thus far crowned with fuccefs, urged him to further exertions; he endeavoured to propagate a fimilar fpirit of induftry among the Colonifts, who had long felt the inertia of the mother country. But knowing how vain it was to expect either activity or induftry from a people groaning with the chains of flavery, he publifhed an edict, whereby the inhabitants of Brazil, and of the other colonies appertaining to the crown, were to be reftored to their freedom, and to enjoy the fame immunities as the natives of Portugal. An act fo replete 3 with with juftice and humanity, is fufficicnt to expiate many of the political fins imputed to the Marquis de Pombal, and is a lafting honour to Portugal, which was the firft among the modern nations of Europe that enflaved mankind, and the firft that fet the humane example of their emancipation. It was alfo the firft that taught Europe navigation and commerce upon a comprehenfive fcale: had not Prince Henry exifted, we fhould not, probably, have ever heard of Columbus. It is to the difcoveries of the Portuguefe in the old world (fays Voltaire) that we are indebted for the new. They were, in fact, the firft that explored the coaft of Africa, that fuggefted the exiftence of the Weftern world, and difcovered the road to India. A people who have been thus early in fo many enter-prifing purfuits, and exhaufted their vigour when moft of the furrounding nations were but waking from their flum-ber, might reafonably be allowed to take a refpite. They are now but commencing their career anew; and it muft be left to time to determine whether they will ever more re-eftablifh the once refpeclable name of Lufitanians/' f f 2 The The following obfervations on the ftate of the weather, I am indebted for to my friend the Reverend Herbert Hill, Chaplain to the Britifh Factory at Lifbon. Extracts from Meteorological Obfervations, made at Lifbon in the Years 1783, 1784, 1785. 1783. 1784. 1785. "1 The general \- days of fail \ fuppofed t< Fair weather Days 171 157 155 T The general number of Cloudy and fhowers - Io6*- I32 127 V days of fair weather is Settled rain - - 88 67 83 J fuppofed to be 200, Quantity of Rain mark'd by lines, 12 to a French inch. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. 0£t. Nov. Dec. *783—52t 25 46t 8;- 21 i2t o 1 4 37t 427 79 1784— 32 44 91 41 8 o o o 6 45 30 106 1785— 61 45 46 35 27 o'- ol 15 34 27 21 76 1783, medium 27^ 1784, - 33r > Polegadas, or Inches—it ought to be, as is 1785,-- $2t J fuppofed, only 23 Polegadas. State of the Thermometer, medium heat fuppofed to be 630. 1783—medium heat for the year, about 56. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May, June. July. Aug. Sept. Oft. Nov. Dec. *784—54 55 57 57 67 7° 73 73 71 60 54 51 the medium therefore is 62, notwithstanding the thermometer on June 15 was at 97, on July 16 at 99, on Auguft 13, for two hours, at 106, and the day after at 103, on December 4. it was at 300. 1785—the mean heat was 62 the thermometer never rofe higher than 94, exprefled by decimals, the mean monthly heat was Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. Oft. Nov. Dec. 539 522 562 620 655 710 745 704 696 639 545 522 State State of the Barometer, mean height at the fea 28 Polegadas, 2 Lines, for elevated fituations—1 Line equal to 73 Feet, 1783— 28.27 4 Feb. 16 and 19 Dec. 27.5 2 Nov. 1784— 28.7 21 April 27.5 27 Dec. 1785— 28.6 9 January 27.6 17 Feb. Variation of the Needle was obferved about the latter end of the year 1785 to be about 230, or fomewhat more. -- I789 - 23*« 1777, was remarkably wet. 1779 and 1782, the quantity of rain only 20 Polegadas. 17%3* it rain'd 240 times in 124 days—Meafured by time, it rain'd 572 hours, or 24 days. 1784, - 384 times, or 23 days. 1785, - 232 times, or 19 days. 1782, February 19, it fnow'd. 1783, February 18, and March 12, it hail'd. Obfervations for 1781. Days. Pol. I. Fair weather 200 Quantity of rain 23 7 Cloudy - 88 Dec. 6. to Dec. 27. 9^ Rain - 77 18 only - 18 Lines, Therm. 11 July oq° ] . . , r I r a t f mean height of the year O30 10 Jan. 340 j 0 J Pol. L. Barom. 9 Dec. 27 Sl ,--2g 29- 28 8j Number 2 21 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. Number of Marriages, Births, and. Deaths regijicred at IJJl'cn m the Tears 1788 and 1789. Anno 178S. Anno 1789. Marriages - - 15 60. - - Births - - 7041- - - 6561. * Deaths - - 5154. - - 5386. Of the Portuguefe Jews. The late Lord Tarawley appears to have entertained a lingular opinion of the inhabitants of Portugal, when he alter ted that they were compofed of Jews and Scbaftians. One clafs of thefe, he fays, expect the coming of the Meffiah ; the other, King Sebaftian. Which of thefe two parties have the ftrongcr faith I leave the reader to conjecture ; but I muff obferve, with Ills Lordfhip's per-miffion, that there is a third party in Portugal, which includes almoft every individual in it, who expect neither until the Millennium. There might, indeed, be ftill a few in the kingdom who are in expectation of the Meffiah; but even thefe few are obliged to confefs that he is already come. Among the Jews of this country were formerly to be found men of great talents. The celebrated edition of the Bible, which was publifhed at Farrara in one thoufand five hundred and fifty-three, was translated by a Portu- * The Friars, Nuns, and their doracfties, arc not included in the lift of deaths. guefe guefe Jew; it is rendered nearly word for word with the original Hebrew text into a fort of corrupt Spanifh, thea ufed in the Jewifh fynagogues. Such words in the translation as are not in the original are marked with afterifks. This work was reprinted in fine characters at Holland in one thoufand fix hundred and thirty ; but many of the words were altered, with a view to render them more intelligible, and feveral of the afterifks were omitted. The firft edition is become very fcarcc. In the reign of John the Firft they had their fynagogues and Rabbins in Portugal; and John the Second and Emanuel tolerated them at the commencement of their reigns* Duarte Nomiez, a Jew, who was banifhed from Portugal,, his native country, in the iixteenth century, was preferred by the Catholic King to be a privy-coun fell or on account of his great abilities, though ail of that perfuafion were formerly banifhed from Spain. The following account of their expuliion from Portugal is chiefly extracted from Oforio, Bifhop of Silva, whofe relation is efteemed the moft correct extant > as he had the beft information on the fubject, and was an eminent and impartial hiftorian, as well as a Chriftian philofopher. Their Caftilian Majefties, Ferdinand and Ifabella, having conceived an averfion to this people, who were charged with many acts of impiety againft the Chriftian religion, banifhed banifhed them from their dominions in the year one thousand four hundred and eighty-two. They difperfed into different places, but the greateft part fled to Portugal. John the Second gave them fhelter, on condition that each fhould pay him eight Ducats, and quit the kingdom at a limited time, otherwife they fhould become flaves; he was bound to furnifh veffels to tranfport them wherever they thought proper, and to give full liberty to all who had a mind to depart. Whilft King John's ftate of health permitted him to difcharge the affairs of the kingdom, he was careful in performing his promife; he gave orders to commiffion veffels to tranfport them wherever they delired, and commanded that none fhould moleft them. His orders, however, were not attended to, for the captains and feamen treated them in the moft cruel manner, keeping them cruifing backwards and forwards on the ocean till all their provifions became exhaufted, and were conftrained to buy of the captains at fo exorbitant a rate, that on landing they were ftripped to the very fhirts ; nor did their wives and daughters efcape the violence of thefe tyrants, but became victims to their luft. The reft of the Jews who remained in Portugal, partly alarmed with the appreheniions of fuch barbarous ufage, and partly hindered by want of money to procure necef-faries for the voyage, remained in the kingdom till the 6 time time prefcribed had elapfed, and thus forfeited their liberty. Whoever now wifhed to have a Jewifh Have petitioned the King, who generally afligned them to fuch perfons as he knew to be of a mild and merciful difpolition, and difpofed to lighten the chains of the miferable wretches. This happened a fhort time before the death of John; but it was the general opinion, efpecially of thofe who had been moft converfant with the King, that, had he lived a little longer, he would have given them their freedom upon eafy terms. Such was the fituation of the Jews when Emanuel began his reign. This Prince being fenfible that neceflity, not choice, caufed them to continue in Portugal after the limited time, generoufly reftored them to their liberty. Induced by a grateful fenfe of fuch extraordinary benevolence, they offered him a large fum of money, which he refufed ; being refolved to gain their affections by kind treatment, and by degrees to convert them to the Chriftian faith. The peace, however, of the unhappy Jews was of fhort duration : the clamour raifed againft them throughout the nation induced the King to take the matter again into confideration. Plis council was divided in opinions, whether the Jews, who had been driven out of Spain, and taken up their reiidence in Portugal, fhould be banifhed from thence or allowed to remain. In the mean g g time, time, the King and Queen of Caftile fent letters to Emanuel, earneftly intreating that he would not fuffer fuch a perverfe people, fo much under the difpleafure of God and the odium of men, to remain in his dominions. Emanuel looked upon this as a point of the utmofl; delicacy. Some of his counfellors were of opinion that they ought not to be exterminated, fince the Pope himfelf had permitted them to dwell in his territories. Induced by his example, feveral ftates in Italy, and many Chriftian Princes in Germany, Hungary, and other parts of Europe, had alfo granted the fame liberty, and allowed them to carry on trade and bulinefs of all forts. Beiides, (faid they,) their banifhment can never reclaim them; for wherever they go they will carry their perverfe difpofitions. A change of country will never effect a change of fentiment in their depraved minds. Should they pafs into Africa, on being driven from hence, which is not improbable, all hopes of their conversion muft be loft. Whilft they live among Chriftians, many of them will be influenced by friendfhip and example to embrace the Chriftian faith, as fome have already done, which can never be expected when they come to be mixed with blind and fuperftitious Mahometans. Befides, it will be very detrimental to the public intereft, if thofe people, fome of whom pof-fefs considerable riches, carry their wealth to the Moors, and teach our enemies the arts they have learned in our nation. On On the other hand, thofe of a different opinion affirmed, that the Jews, not without reafon, had been banifhed from Spain, France, and many places in Germany, by Princes who fet a lefs value upon the increafe of their revenues than the interefts of religion: they perceived the dangerous confequences of allowing fuch a people to remain in their dominions; that they were apt to impofe on the fimple and infect the illiterate with their pernicious doctrine; that it would be very imprudent to put the leaft confidence in men fo inveterate againft our holy religion, who were bound by no ties or obligations, but ready to facrifice every thing to their intereft, pry into the fecrets of the ftate, and give intelligence to our enemies. It would likewife (faid they) be more eligible to banifh them immediately when they can only carry away the wealth they have fcraped together in other countries, than to allow them to remain longer, and then to difmifs them, after they Should have amaffed considerable riches. Emanuel was influenced by the latter opinion, and decreed, that all the Jews, and Moors likewife, who had refufed to embrace the Chriftian faith, Should quit his dominions ; and fixed a day, after which all thofe who remained in Portugal were to lofe their liberty. When the day approached, they began to prepare for their departure, Emanuel was greatly afflicted to think tfrnt fo many thoufands of people Should be driven into g g 2 banifh- banifhment; and was defirous, at leaft, to convert their children. For this purpofe he devifed a fcheme, which,, in fact, was contrary to all juftice and equity, though eventually attended with good confequences to the kingdom. He ordered all the children of the Jews, under fourteen years of age, to be forcibly taken from their parents, that they might be educated in the Chriftian faith ; an order which, in the execution^ was attended with the moft affecting circumftances. What a moving fpectacle was this to behold ! Children torn from the embraces of their fcreaming mothers; others dragged from the necks of their weeping fathers, and affectionate brothers and lifters, about to be feparated for ever. The city of Lifbon was filled with cries and lamentations ; even the fpectators could not refrain from tears. Fathers and mothers, moved with indignation, were commonly feen to lay violent hands upon themfelves, and precipitating, out of love and compaflion, their infant children into wells and pits, to avoid the feverity of this decree. There was ftill another calamity that bore hard upon the unfortunate victims; fuch as were defirous of leaving the country had not the liberty of fo doing. The King was fo intent upon making converts of them, that he refolved, partly by rewards, partly by neceflity, to invite or compel them to embrace the Chriftian faith. By agree- 11 nient TRAVELS TN PORTUGAL. 22^ merit he was to have provided them with Shipping, and to allow them to depart unmolested \ but this he put off from time to- time, and obliged them to refort from all quarters to Lifbon, to be fent abroad, though at firft he promifed three different ports for their departure. The time was fo protracted by thefe delays, that the day fixed upon had elapfed, and all who remained forfeited their liberty. Thus harafled, they at length affected to become Christians; by which they were reftored to their liberty, and recovered their children. The King gave them great encouragement, fo that many of them lived contentedly in the Portuguefe dominions. " Upon whofe faith, (fays (t Montaigne,) as alfo that of their pofterity, even to this cc day, few Portuguefe can rely, or believe them to be real li converts, though time and cuftom are much more po-" tent counsellors in fuch changes, than all other con-" ftraints." Such were the methods ufed to bring about the con** version of the Jews; but furely it muft be confeffed to be unwarrantable. Will any one pretend to maintain, that it is consistent with, the principles of common juftice, or of religion, to force perverfe and obstinate minds into a belief of things which, in reality, they reject and de-fpife ? Can any one pretend to hinder; the freedom of the: will, or fetter the understanding ?. It is impoflible, and directly averfe from the doctrine of Chrift, He does not take take pleafure in any thing that proceeds from force or constraint; he is pleated only with a voluntary facrifice flowing from the heart. He does not command violence to be offered to the understanding of men, but to invite them by reafon and gentlenefs to the contemplation of true religion. Besides, what is more presumptuous than for a mortal to take upon him to do what the Divine Spirit only can effect. It is He alone who is able to enlighten and purify the minds of men ; and fuch as He finds not altogether perverfe and repugnant to His holy influence, He removes from darknefs to the light of Chrif-tianity. That many of the Jews were not sincere in their conversion has been often evinced fince the above period, by the numbers that have suffered perfecution, or quitted the country to avoid the rigour of the inquisition. The greateft part of them have fettled in England and Holland ; and among the Jews who reside in thefe countries, thofe of Portugal are faid to be the moft refpectable characters. I know one of them in this country who is much refpected and esteemed by all who know him for his amiable qualities ; he is kind and affectionate to his relations, and warmly attached to his friends, among whom are people of various fccts, Jews and Gentiles. If many of the de-fcription of Mr. Rebello of Hackney have been banifhed from Portugal, the lofs muft be very great indeed. 4. And And yet, notwithstanding the perfecutions they have Suffered, the love of that country is fo rooted in their nature, that many of them have been known to import earth from Lifbon, and enjoined their furviving friends, as their laft dying requeft, to depofite it along with their corpfe. This is literally carrying the love of country into the grave. There is Something in the air and foil of Portugal fo con* genial to the difpofition of the Ifraelites, that when once accuftomed to it, neither time, nor change, nor perfection, can alter their affedtions for it. Lufitania, in fhort, is their favourite land; their Salem; for which they mourn wherever fate compels them to ftray, like their anceftors of old on the banks of the Euphrates, who hung their harps-on willow branches, and fighed for their beloved Salem* Father Lewis de Soufa, It is to the pen of this Father that I am indebted for the hiftory of the Royal Monaftery of Batalha, of which I have given a translation in my account of that ftru&ure. Amongft the hiftorians of Portugal, he holds the firft rank in point of ftyle and veracity. As the circumftance which induced him to feclude himfelf from the world and become a friar is rather lingular, a fhort account of it may not be unacceptable to the reader. In one thoufand five hundred and feventy-eight, when Don Sebaftian, King of Portugal, was defeated and flam in a pitched pitched battle againft Muly Moloch, Emperor of Morocco, many of the Nobility of Portugal who accompanied him fhared the fame fate, and others who fell into the enemy's hands were made captives. Amongft the Gentlemen who accompanied King Sebaftian in this unfortunate expedition, there was one whofe name the biographer has omitted; it was included, however, in the return of the flain. When his wife who refided in Liihon received the intelligence, fhe neverthelefs entertained hopes that it might have been a miftake, and that Heaven would yet favour her with a fight of him. Under this plealing expectation fhe remained ten years, notwithstanding the repeated accounts fhe received from the agents employed to redeem the captives confirmed the relation of his death. Her friends, who were convinced of the truth of it, entreated her to relinquifh the idea of ever feeing him, and to enter once more into the marriage ftate. Soufa, at this time, moved in the firft circles of fafhion: his company was much fought for, as he was an excellent fcholar, as well as an accomplifhed Gentleman, he paid his addreffes to this Lady : her incredulity refpe&ing her hufband's death, at this time, began to give way, and fhe was prevailed on by her relations to give him her hand. Accordingly they were married, and lived together in the greateft greateft harmony; but it was of fhort duration: a merchant from Africa arrived in Lifbon, fought out the Lady, and informed her, that he was charged with a com million from her hufband who was in captivity, and relied upon her affections to expedite -his releafe. The unfortunate woman, quite overwhelmed with fhame and furprife in this affecting dilemma, afked de Soufa's advice, who was alfo aftonifhed at the news. As he was a prudent and confeientious man, he refolved to be guided in a matter of fuch delicacy by the pureft dictates of honour. In the firft place, in order to afcertain the fact, he had recourfe to an ingenious expedient; he conducted the meflengcr to a picture gallery in his houfe, told him that a portrait of the Gentleman whom he affirmed to ' have feen was in the collection, and requefted him to point it out as a proof that there was no miftake in his declaration. The merchant endeavoured to excufe himfelf, flying, that a long ftate of fervitude and cruel treatment had made fuch a change in the captive Gentleman, that he doubted if his moft intimate friends could recoa> nize him were lie prefent; neverthelefs, fays he, fome leading features induce me to think that this is his portrait, pointing to the identical one. Soufa, from this and other collateral circumftanccs, was now convinced of the truth of the whole, and applauded the merchant for his humanity. h h This This affair affected Soufa very much; he deliberated with himfelf in what manner to ad; at length he refolved, having no children to provide for, to retire from the world, and feclude himfelf in a monaftery. The wife approved the refolution, and as a proof of her grief and affection, retired alfo into a nunnery near Lifbon. But previous to their feclufion, they ufed every means in their power, to refcue the unfortunate Gentleman from captivity. Soufa now entered into the Dominican order, and lived in the convent of Bemfica near Lifbon. The Fathers of this order, defirous of completing the hiftory of their foundation, thought this a favourable opportunity, and knowing Soufa to be a man of great talents, they requested him to undertake the tafk, and perfect what Cacegas, a friar of the fame order, had begun. He accordingly fet about it, and after many years labour, .publifhed it in the year one thoufand fix hundred and nineteen, under the name of Cacegas, and his own; thus, from his extreme modefty, dividing the honour of the work, the whole of which he could juftly claim as his own ; but posterity has done juftice to his memory, and Cacegas's name is now remembered only through Soufa's works. His facts are faid to be accurate and well arranged ; his deductions natural and folid; his ftyle throughout is simple and nervous; and what adds greater honour to his memory, he was a man of exemplary piety and humanity. 6 In In the year one thoufand feven hundred and ninety, Father John de Souza, who we before mentioned (page 154 and 199) publifhed a curious collection of papers, entitled Documentor Arabkos, which he translated into Portuguefe, by permiflion of her Majefty, from the original Arabic manufcripts, deposited in the royal archives of Liihon. They chiefly coniift of copies of letters that paffed between the Kings of Portugal and the tributary Princes of India in the Sixteenth century. We fhall attempt to render one of them into Englifh from the Portuguefe verfion, which is written in the true fpirit of the adulatory ftyle. A Letter from the King of Melinda, to Emanuel King of Portugal c* With the moft profound refpect, exalted and honourable exprefiions, praifes, falutations, and greetings from an humble and faithful fervant, (who implores forgivenefs from the majefty of God,) the Xeque Wagerage, to the prefence of the moft illuftrious, happy, efteemed, Sincere, praife-worthy, protecting, permanent, and invincible Monarch Emanuel, to whom appertain every kindnefs, favour, and honour. His name is celebrated by the people of every region; his beneficence is perpetual, and his fame cvcrlafting. Lord of the ennobled court, of the kingdom of difcoveries, and of the palace of treafures. His fubjects are victorious, his caftlcs formidable, his garrifons fortified, his batteries elevated, his Wfjls decorated, his ftreets 11 11 2 ornamented, ornamented, his houfes lofty, his palaces admirable, his people juft, his clergy humble, his monks learned, his constitution eftablifhed, his fubjects enterpriling, his gates defended, his heroes intrepid, his cavalry valiant; one of them would fight a hundred warriors. To his city are difpatched fleets deeply laden; his prefence bows the head and bends the knee; he is the fountain of commerce in every city and kingdom. The equity of his adrniniftration enriches the poor, and fhortens the days of his enemies : whoever feeks to find a blemifh in him, will feek in vain for what the eye never faw, nor the ear ever heard ; lie is the fource of goodnefs and honours, the difpenfer of titles, the ftern of nobility, the centre of the univerfe, the pillar of power, the munificent protector of the virtuous and meritorious, the King of regions, the crown of greatnefs, the diadem of liberality, whofe forces have fubdued Sinde, India, Perfia, Arabia, Egypt, Syria, Yeman, and all the provinces of the univerfe. His voice brings the infolent to fubjection, and his afpect humbles the proud ; an example beyond emulation; his name is praifed amongft men, becaufe he raifes up the poor. When he fits on his throne every eye is dazzled with his glory ; his cuftoms are agreeable, his authority nerves the arm of the warrior, his fame refounds from pole to pole, his prefence is more beautiful than the full moon, his graces refrefh like the dew of fpring, his determinations are as fixed as fate, his name extends to every part of the earth, his beneficence diftinguifhes him at all times and in all countries: fuch ii is is King Emanuel; the" great God perpetuate his reign, and preferve him from the envy and artifice of his enemies. Amen. u This is to give thee to understand, moft dear and sincere friend, that the writer is in good health, and anxious to know the state of thine, and of all that belong to thee. May the Lord preferve thee, and all that is thine ! ITe would have come in perfon to thy noble prefence , but being occupied in rearing his fons, and providing them with fervants and flaves, whor together with their father, is thy fervant and Have ; and never ceafes to pray to God, by day and night, to crown thee with honour, riches, and glory. His perfon and property have been entirely devoted to. thy fervice, from the first time he has feen thy fubjects to the prefent hour, as they can inform thee. He implores thy protection and friendfhip, to the end that he may be honoured and esteemed by thy people. He begs thy permiflion to fail in his own fhip once a year to Goa and Mofambique, to provide ne-cefTaries for thy ufe> " Having contemplated all that this world could hitherto boafl of, he never could difcover a monarch more powerful, nor an empire more happy than thine. It has pleafed God to fhower his bleflings in abundance on thee, and it is to him alone thofe bleflings muft be afcribed. « hi " In ancient days, be it known to thee, O King, there lived a generous man, named Halem, who was the very eflerice of liberality, and had riches adequate to his munificence ; in all his life he was never known to refufe any requeft: it is related that a man who wanted to try the extent of his liberality, made a journey for that purpofe to his houfe. Halem afked what brought him hither. 1 came, faid he, to demand thy head. What claim haft thou to my head, replied Llalem ? Liften to me, quoth he ; there lives a King in my neighbourhood, who gave me a thoufand pieces of gold to permit him to wear his head. Halem immediately retired to his chamber, brought out a thoufand pieces, and fays to the man, as he extended his neck, Here, friend, take your choice, my head or the money : the man accepted the latter, and went away. 11 Thy fervant now, O King! repeats a fimilar experiment ; as thou art the moft liberal Sovereign among the Kings of the earth, I figure to myfelf thy mighty power and refplendent qualities ; and my friends, who have weighed thy grandeur with all others, agree that Alexander and Caefar were even as duft in the balance compared to thee, becaufe all the treafure of the globe is at thy dif-pofal, thy generofity, therefore, however great, can never leffen thy wealth ; remember then, O King ! that, of all others, I am * the moft deferving of thy favours. * He fpcaks of himfelf promifcuoufly in the third and firft perfons Angular. " Thy " Thy fervant, the Xeque Wagerage, implores thee to look with an eye of companion and clemency on the inhabitants of Melinda, and if they be found worthy of fo great a favour, it will raife them in the eftimation of fur* rounding nations, and entitle them to their praife, re-fpect, and protection; and as the Xeque of Melinda never yet visited Mofambique, he expects that thou wilt condefcend that he fhould go thither; and if any perfon, whether Portuguefe or Muffelman, mould prefume to dictate to him, or refift his authority, he (hall reply, that fuch is King Emanuel's pleafure, which is the manner he now commands and determines all matters in Melinda; becaufe the authority of Monarchs is unlimited: he alfo defires, when the Xeque of Melinda is at Mofambique, that orders will be given to the Portuguefe not to offend him, but confider him as the organ of the King, and inverted with his power. He will take cognizance of thofe who have always co-operated to exalt thy name, interest, and reputation ; of this testimony fhall be given by thy fervants Simon de Andrade, Francifco Pereira, Fernando de Freitas, Gafpar de Paiva, Antonio da Cofta, and all the reft of the Christians, as well as MufTelmen of Mozambique. " In fine, be affured, O King! that myfelf, my fons, and my property, are devoted to thy fervice, and fhall continue fo to the laft day of my life; therefore I implore implore thee to accede to my fupplications. Peace be with thee! " Know, O interpreter of this letter! that the Xeque Wagerage warns thee to read this narrative to the King in a proper and becoming manner, without adding or diminishing ought; fo that it may appear to all, that the Sovereign was delighted with its contents. He will pay thee thy cuftomary fees ; be careful, therefore, in doing juftice to it, and God will reward thee. Twenty-eighth of Zulcade nine hundred and twenty-one of the Llegira; which correfponds to the thirtieth of September one thoufand five hundred and fifteen." Note by De Souza* The Xeque Wagerage was Lord of Melinda when Vafco da Gama concluded a treaty of alliance with him, in the year fifteen hundred ; in confequence of which, that Prince fent an Ambaffador with Vafco da Gama to Portugal, with a rich prefent to King Emanuel. This AmbaiTador returned to Meb'nda in the fhip of Pedralves Cabral, and brought with him a letter and a prefent from King Emanuel to his friend the Xeque. Fide Chroti. part i. 42. et feq. Cintra. Cintra. The name of a mountainous country, about twenty miles Weft of Lifbon. That part of it which is called the Rock of Cintra is well known to all navigators, from its being fituated at the Weftern extremity of Europe. In the writings of the ancient geographers, it is called the Promontory of the Moon; by others, Olijiponefe; probably on account of its vicinage to Lifbon ; but according to Strabo, it was formerly named Hierna. Nature apparently threw up the mountain of Cintra as a formidable barrier to ftay the waves of the Atlantic Ocean, and to mark the Weftern termination of her works in the European world. The height of the Joftieft part of it above the level of the fea is computed at upwards of three thoufand feet. Every morning its fummit is enveloped in clouds, and in the evening, long after night has obfeured the vallies, it retains fome glimmering of day-light. On its apex there is a monaftery of the Order of Saint Jeronimo, whofe Weftern front ftrikes every fpeclator with awe, as it appears hanging over an afTemblage of lofty mattered rocks. 1 1 From r From the village of Cintra, which is situated at the foot of this mountain, on the Weftern fide, I fpent two hours in climbing up to the monaftery. It was founded by King Emanuel at the beginning of the sixteenth century. The architecture is of a fpecies of Gothic, not purely Norman nor Arabian, but a compound of both : the whole is built of a greyifh ftone of the granite kind, and the vaults of the church, chapter-houfe, and facrifty, are constructed of the fame materials, and formed into divers compartments by ribs and crofs fpringers; the chap-ter-houfe, particularly, exhibits a fine fpecimen of this kind of vaulting. In the church is a curious facrarium of alabafter, faid to be the work of an Italian. Whoever was the artift, he appears to have pofTefTed but flender abilities as a fculptor. One of the Friars placed a lighted candle in the infide of it, and clofed the aperture ; yet, from the tranfparency of the ftone, it emitted light fufficient to read by. Probably it was of this kind of ftone that the Temple of Fortuna Seta was constructed, of which Montfaucon fpeaks in his Diarium I tali cum. u Pliny informs us, that Nero built the Temple of Fortuna Seia, on the fpot firft dedicated to her by Servius Tullius, of a fort of ftone found in Cappadocia, as tranf-13 parent parent as glafs. Hence it was called Phengites, from the Greek word Phengos; that is to fay, brightnefs. tc I have met fome who hold Pliny's relation of this temple as fabulous; but indeed there is nothing in it incredible; for daily experience evinces the truth of as improbable matters. In the church of Saint Mini as, at Florence, there are windows of alabafter, inftead of glafs; a table of which fills each aperture, though fifteen feet high, and yet the church is fufficiently luminous. Were the alabafter column (landing in the Vatican library cut into tables, it would be almoft as tranfparent as glafs." To return to the monaftery. Here is an hofpitium for the accommodation of pilgrims who vifit this church to perform nevenaries ; that is to fay, nine days devotion; and alfo for thofe who come to celebrate vigils. The number of Friars' who formerly inhabited the monaftery amounted to thirty; at prefent they are reduced to four. Were I one of the Order, I fhould wifh to pafs my days among them; for I never faw a more charming fituation for meditation, more fequeftered from the concerns of life, or better adapted for difpofing the mind to the contemplation of another life. Hence I do not wonder at the relations handed down to us from paft ages, of fo many mighty things having been 1 1 2 achieved achieved on mountains; they are the fittefl theatres, on many accounts, for pe,rforming great exploits. Indeed it is almoft impoffible for an inhabitant of this place not to act and think different from thofe who dwell in a valley. The founds and profpects peculiar to it are very favourable to reflection, particularly of a ftormy day, when the murmurs of furges, and the howling of tem-pefts, fill the mind with a fympathetic fadnefs. Where-ever we turn our eyes, the mind is ftruck with the awful works of Nature : on one fide is the distant ocean, whofe evanid furface blends with the blue horizon; beneath, the deep valley ftrikes one with the appearance of an auguft cavern : the fhattered ftate of the impending rocks on the declivity of the mountain, torn as it were asunder, and every where bursting from the foil, threaten at the leafl fhock to tumble down and destroy the village. About thirty years ago a foreign gentleman difcovered a mine of loadstone in this mountain. What fuggefled the idea of it, were the herbs that grew immediately over it, which were of a pale colour, and more feeble than the adjacent plants of the fame fpecies. Having dug about fix feet deep, he found a fine vein > but as the mountain is a mafs of disjointed rocks and clay, he could not proceed farther, without propping as he excavated. Government, therefore, apprehending the produce would not defray the expence, ordered it to be Unit up. i On On the Weftern fide of the mountain are feen the remains of fome ancient walls, which are built partly on the rocks, and partly constructed over the cavities. Subterranean paffages and fragments of ancient tombs are faid to have been found here; but hitherto no account of them, nor of the other veftiges, have been given to the public. Whether they are Roman or Moorifque I could not learn ; but moft probably they appertain to the latter, or at leaft parts of them, as there are the remains of an ancient building, fuppofed to have been a mofque ftill extant. A fmall apartment to the rear of it is vaulted and ornamented with ftars painted on an azure ground; and; the walls ftill retain fome veftiges of Arabic characters. The fineft piece of antiquity about the place is a quadrangular monument, fuppofed to have been a Moorifque bath ; it is fifty feet long by feventeen broad. Annexed is an interior view of it; Plate XII. The walls are built of hewn ftone, with three pilafters at each fide, which are continued in arches, as bands to the vault, with which it is covered. The water of this bath is four feet deep; and what is very remarkable, it neither increafes or diminifhes, Winter or Summer, though it has no apparent fource ; and notwithstanding it is never cleaned, yet it is always transparent, and the fides and bottom are free from weeds or fediment, fediment, which, according to Vitruvius, are the fureft signs of the falubrity of water. There is a tradition among the common people, that treasures are hidden beneath the above ruins; and that under this bath are interred a Morifquc King, with his treasures, in a tomb of brafs, guarded by evil fpirits. And net only the common people, but alfo thofe who, from their htuation in life, ought to know better, give credit to thefe ridiculous tales. The village of Cintra, and the different villas at the foot of the mountain, are fupplied with water from its fummit, by means of little conduits formed along its fides. How this water is collected on the mountain, has given rife to various conjectures: fome imagine it to proceed from the distillations of the clouds, which, as we obferved before, envelope it morning and evening; but it is evident that an hour of meridian fun, in Summer, will exhale more vapours in this country, than is imbibed by the highest mountain in the courfe of a night. Others conjecture that the latent moisture is drawn upwards by fome magnetic properties of the mountain, in the nature of a fiphon; but, strictly fpeaking, there is no water to be found here on the very fummit. The convent, which is feated on the mountain, is fupplied by a well, which I compute to be fixty or feventy feet deep; now this is the highest IMiite XII - HlllWUlllAUiUlul I mi 1111.111111 llUUlUi I i 1J1111 m 1111111H Mfl F' 11' ti-i iini'-mi-Lj-i-i-m-M i iimiiiinMinin|tiiiiiii\i\\tiii|nnfi»nim mim mm.....im"ii l.onJon 1'iihti/h.l Mai/1 /;.;■;. hi, t'mMl tc Ihivies Stnttut 945 54305235374223 4857 highest water to be found in this mountain ; and the fame depth below the furface of the earth is fuffieient, generally, to afcertatn water in plains: of courfe, the fame caufe by which water is impelled to ascend in the latter, will apply to the former. We may alfo add, that in mountains the interfpaces of the rocks may be confidered as fo many tubes through which water afcends, as in the fhafts of wells, owing to its volatile and porous nature; for it is computed to have forty times more fpace in it than matter: we find a fimilar effect produced by a cloth partly im-merfed, and partly hanging over the tide of a veflel with water, which it draws out as effectually as a siphon. At the foot of the above mountain, contiguous to the village of Cintra, is a palace, wherein the Royal family ufed formerly to reside during the Summer feafon, on account of the amenity of the place, and the falubrity of the air; for though it is but sixteen miles diftant from Lifbon, yet I was affured by a Gentleman, who occasionally re-fided here for many years, and kept a register of the weather, that he found it, on an average, eight degrees colder in the month of July than the capital. Notwithstanding this and many other advantages which Cintra poffeffes over any other part of Portugal, it is but little reforted to by the natives. The palace is entirely deferred, and has not, I believe, been much frequented fince the death of Alfonfo VI. who ended his mifcrable life in it It after a clofe confinement of feven years. The floor of the apartment wherein he was immured, which is paved with tiles, is broken and worn in many parts, from his fteps ; for he was continually walking in it, or taking fnuff, his-chief amufements. The principal crime laid to the charge of this unfortunate Prince was impbtency ; for this he loft his crown, his wife, and his liberty. He reigned five years, was im-prifoned fourteen; eight of which he pafTed in the ifland of Tercera, and the remainder here. He died in one thoufand fix hundred and fixty-nine, in the forty-eighth year of his age ; and in three months after died his wife, who married his brother Peter the Second. This palace, apparently, has been raifed by piece-meal, for it is very irregular throughout; the architecture is chiefly Arabian: the ornaments that accompany the windows reprefent interlaced branches of trees deprived of the leaves, and as though fome of the fhoots were lopped off. I have given a reprefentation of one of them in the introduction to my defcription of the monaftery of Batalha. Over the kitchen are raifed two lofty cones for chimnies, which refemble the fhafts of our glafshoufes: the apartments are numerous; but the communication from the one to the other is not very convenient. The principal ornaments about it are fountains, which are conftantly fupplied from the mountains with excellent water: there are no no gardens annexed to it on account of the precipice to the rear. Alfonfo the Fourth, at his acceffion to the throne, paffed a month here together in hunting the wild beafts, which, in his time, roved in numbers about thefe mountains. The fevere reproof he received from one of his fubjects on that occafion deferves to be recorded. Whilft the King was enjoying the pleafures of the chace with his favourites, the affairs of the ftate were conilgned to men who ftudied their own intereft more than that of the public. The Nobility, perceiving the abufes of the Minifters, and the Sovereign's inattention to the duties of his crown, held a council at Lifbon, to which they invited the Prince. He accordingly appeared; but, inftead of attending to their deliberations, he proceeded to recite his adventures at Cintra, with all the levity of a young fportf-man. When he had flnifhed his narrative, one of the Noblemen flood up, and thus addreffed the King: " Sire,—Courts and camps were allotted for Kings, not woods and mountains. When bufinefs is facrificed to amufement, the affairs even of private perfons are in dan-ger; but when pleafure engroffes the thoughts of a King, a whole nation muft inevitably be configned to ruin. Sire, we came here, not to hear the adventures of the k k chace, chace, which are intelligible only to grooms and falconers, but to confult the welfare of the people. Your Majefty will find fufficient employment in attending to their wants; and if you will remove the grievances with which they are opprefTed, you will find them dutiful and obedient fubjects, if not——here the King ftarting up in a rage interrupted him, faying, if not, what then?——If not, re-fumed the Nobleman in a firm tone, they will look for a better King.5* Alfonfo haftened out of the room, and in the higheft tranfport of pafiion exprefTed his refentment; but as paffion always begins in folly and ends in forrow, his rage foon abated, and he returned with a ferene countenance to the affembly, whom he thus addreffed: '* I now perceive the truth of what you have juft advanced. A King, who will not perform the duties of his throne, cannot have affectionate fubjects. Remember, that from this day you have to do, not with Alfonfo the fportf-man, but with Alfonfo the Fourth, King of Portugal." His Majefty did not fail to adhere to his promife. He afterwards became one of the beft Kings that ever reigned in Portugal. The Marquis de Marialva has a manfion near this village, where the Royal family honoured him with a vifit 3 on on the month of Auguft laft. In the evening they were entertained with an excellent concert, confifting of upwards of forty performers, among whom were fome eminent muficians. Her Majefty was dreffed in black. His Royal Highnefs the Prince of Brazil fat on her right hand, and the two Princefles on her left: all were dreffed in the plaineft manner, fuch as every perfon muft admire who has a juft fenfe of true greatnefs. They were attended by feveral of the Nobility and Minifters of ftate. The noble hoft begged her Majefty's permiilion to hear an officer of the guards play a folo upon a Jew's harp; which being granted, he entered the room fully equipped as on duty, and played a difficult piece in a mafterly manner, infomuch as peculiarly to arreft the attention of the Royal vifitants. Next appeared a beautiful girl, about nine years of age, dreffed in all the tinfel of theatric pride: fhe fung an euloge to the Queen; and, at the fame time, danced a kind of alemande. Her voice was clear and melodious, her action graceful and fentimentaL She did not appear embarraffed in the leaft at the prefence of the Sovereign, whofe power, magnificence, and virtues, fhe was extolling to the fkies. A dance followed after this between a black girl, a native of Africa, and a dwarf belonging to the Marquis de Marialva: the African is named Don Rofa; fire lives with k k 2 her her Majefty, at whofe feet fhe fat during the concert. I obferved, at different times, that fhe fpoke to the Queen, and refted her hand upon her lap: this inftance of Royal condefcenfion to one of that perfecuted race, deferves to be recorded for the honour of human nature. About nine o'clock, two of the moft eminent performers on the violin played a duet: after which the Royal family withdrew to the gardens, where a grand exhibition of fire-works was prepared and played off, under the in--fpection of a Prieft of Cintra. When this was over, the Royal guefts fat down to fupper, in a fuperb faloon, decorated with green boughs, fome bearing bloffoms and others fruit. The table was laid out with all the elegance imaginable. There was alfo a table for the Nobility, Minifters, and Officers of the guards, and another for the Maids of Honour, in feparate apartments. The princely ftyle in which every thing was con-dueled, reflects great honour on the well known tafte and hofpitality of the noble Marquis, whofe character refts upon a ftill more exalted bafis, his attachment to his Sovereign and country, his moderation in all his actions.. About fix miles South-weft of the village of Cintra, are fome veftiges of a ftructure, fuppofed to have been a temple dedicated to the fun and moon. Nunez de Leao^ who who has publifhed a fhort defcriptioa of Portugal, fays, there remains fome fragments of it bearing the two £oU lowing infcriptions: Soli . et . Lunae . CjETIUS . Acidus , Perennis . Leg . Aug . Pro . Provinciae . LuSITANIiE * Soli . jeterno . LuNiE . pro . jeternitate . Imperii . et . salute . Imper . Cai . Septimii . Severi . Augusti . Pn . et . Imp. Caos . M . Aurelji . Antonini . Pn . Et . Julia .-aug . <—- m . ——- Qes • Et . JuLiiE . Aug . matris . Cjes . Dru . SUS . vester . SlCILIANUS . VjATOUS . Augustorum . t . Q^. Julius . Saturni . Et . Antoninus . According to Florian de Campo, a continued chain of mountains extends from this place, under the Atlantic Ocean, to the Ifland of Madeira, which is diftant one hundred and fifty leagues from thence. As it is eafier to make afTertions of this kind than to prove them, an author, who is fond of the marvellous, may advance them at pleafure, without apprehenfion of being refuted by ocular demonstration. Very few, however, who have ventured into the chaos of conjecture, have fucceeded better than Huygens; his famous hypothefis gives us a fublime idea of the im-menfity of fpace, and of the ineffable works of the Omnipotent Being; befides, it is not improbable, as he obferves, c that ft54 TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. that in the regions of infinity there may he Jlars whofe light is not yet travelled down to us fince their frfl creation. But to return to our fubject. Here is a rock called Pedra da Alvidras, whofe height above the fea, which is at the foot of it, apparently is not lefs than two hundred feet; and though it is very fteep, and the furface fmooth, yet I am informed that the neighbouring labourers, without ropes or apparatus of any kind, defcend to the bottom of it to fifh, each carrying a rod and a bafket, and clamber up the fame route. They often perform this tafk for a fmall prefent, to amufe, or rather to terrify, thofe who vifit the place. The leaft flip would be fatal to them, as they muft inevitably be dafhed to pieces againft the fharp projecting rocks beneath. I have not heard, however, that any have fallen a facrifice to their temerity. What a ftriking inftance is the above of the effects of education. A foldier would fooner undertake to face the mouth of a loaded cannon, than to follow fuch a daring example ; yet thefe people, who are accuftomed to it from their infancy, appear divefted of fear on this occafion, though, perhaps, they dare not venture by night to a place reputed for the haunt of ghofts or goblins. A fine valley, called Collares, extends between this and the village of Cintra. It may be called the Golden Vale of Portugal; for it is one of the richeft and belt cultivated fpots fpots in the kingdom. The greater part of it is planted with fruit-trees, particularly orange; and though they are fo clofe together, that their boughs intertwine, yet they bear vaft quantities of delicious fruit. The fruit and green markets of Lifbon are chiefly fupplied from this luxuriant garden. Mufk and water-melons grow in it in fuch abundance, that the inhabitants fell them during the feafon for lefs than a penny a piece. Of the peculiarity of the foil about this district, Carca-vella furnifhes a ftriking inftance; where there is a vineyard, of no considerable extent, that yields grapes different from thofe of any other part of the kingdom ; its wine is well known all over Europe, but I believe its name is better known in general than its flavour; for it is not poiTible that fo limited a fpot can yield one half of the wine fold in London alone under the denomination of Carcavella, or Calcavella, as it is improperly called. Cork Convent* This Convent, or Hermitage,, is partly burrowed between the rocks, which ferve as vaults to the church, facrifty, and chapter-houfe, 6cc. and partly built over the furface. The fubterraneous apartments are lighted by holes cut obliquely in the rocks, and lined internally with cork, to guard againft the humidity. Hence it is called the Cork Convent, It is inhabited by about twenty hermits of the moft rigid rigid Order of Saint Francis. They are governed by a Prior, and live chiefly on fifh, fruit, and bread : each has a feparate cell, about the fize of a grave, furnifhed with a mattrefs; yet one of their community who lately died, named Honorius, thinking the meaneft of thefe cells too luxurious a habitation, retired to a circular pit at the rear of the Hermitage, not larger than Diogenes's tub, for it is but four feet diameter; and here, after a residence of sixteen years, he ended his peaceful days at a good old age. The floor of it is strewed with leaves, which ferved for his bed; and the rugged ftone, which he ufed alternately as a pillow and feat, is ftill to be feen there. Thefe in-ftances of felf-denial fhew us into what a narrow compafs all human wants might be reduced, and evince the truth of the poet's aflertion : Man wants but little here below ; Nor wants that little long. Coldfmith. A Portuguefe nobleman, well known for his poetical tafte, wrote a few lines extempore, defcribing the beauties of this enchanting country, during my residence there. I have thus attempted them in Englifh : Befcription of Cintra. Cintra, whofe mountains feek the fkies, Thy vallies deck'd in living green; Thy flowrets rob'd in varying dies, With grottos form'd by Fancy's queen. Refrefhing Refreshing rills that never fail, When Phoebus moots his brighter!: beams; Whilft balmy odours load each gale, And nodding fruits furvey the ftreams. Here Zephyr courts each opening flower, And birds that charm, of every fong; Here echo dwells in mazy bower, And love that lifts the whole night long. Penha Verde, Formerly the refidence of Don John De Caftro, is now inhabited by one of his defcendants. Here that great man paffed the fhort intervals that peace permitted his abfence from the field or the ocean \ alternately employed in ftudy and cultivating his gardens. To evince his indifference for any emolument that might arife from thefe plantations, he caufed them to be ftripped of every fruit-tree, and had fterile ones planted in their place. Penha Verde, for its extent, is the beft fituated for diversity and profped of any villa in the kingdom ; the country on every fide prefents a wild aflemblage of finking fcenes ; mountains and vallies interfperfed with rocks, wood, and water ; little temples and grottos are constructed in divers parts of the gardens: the former is furnifhed with altars, which Don John ufed often vifit to pray ; a duty which l l he he ftrictly obferved, whether in peace or war; for he juftly conceived that piety is not incompatible with true courage. To a man of his caft of mind, there cannot be a more appropriate relidence : as the greater part of his life was fpent among fcenes of the moft tumultuous nature, in Europe, Alia, or Africa, the wilds of Cintra ferved but to fan that fpirit of enterprife which animated him till the laft hour of hia life. The actions of this celebrated character have been recorded by different writers, particularly Jacinto Freyre de Andrade, who has published an account of his life; and they all allow that he deferves to be claffed in the firft rank of Chriftian heroes. A man who, by his precepts and example, contributed fo much to the advancement of public and private virtue, and left to pofterity the moft illuftrious inftance9 of courage, probity, and patriotifm, is entitled to a more honourable niche than I can beftow him among thefe trifling fragments. The fketch that I am about to offer of his memoirs is collected, partly from thofe efteemed the beft Portuguefe writers, and partly from the oral tradition of well-informed people. Don Don John de Caflro. Don John de Caftro was born at Lifbon in the year one thoufand five hundred, of an illuftrious family. In his youth he appears to ha^e made great progrefs in mathematics, under the celebrated Peter Nonnius, one of the ableft profeflbrs of that fcience of his time. Fired with the military fame of his countrymen, he was determined to fhare the laurels which they were then reaping at Tangiers, the feat of martial achievements ; for this purpofe he departed fecretly from his parents at the age of eighteen, and foon after appeared at Africa in the front of battle. His valour and prudence did not pafs unnoticed here, for he was knighted in the field by Don Edward de Menezes, the Governor of Tangiers. After ferving nine years in this place, he returned to his native country, where he was received by his Sovereign and fellow-citizens with every mark of diftinclioii to which his fervices juftly entitled him : confeious, however, that he had only done his duty, his mind was not to be diverted by the applaufe of the moment. Pie retired to the folitary rocks of Cintra, not to repofc on his laurels, but to promote the farther welfare of his country, by the application of an active and capacious mind to the ftudies neceffary to conftitute a great commander. L L 2 As As his health, which had been injured by wounds and fatigue, began to mend, he was impatient to put the plans he had devifed in the clofet into execution, which, in a fhort time, he partly accomplifhed in various engagements by fea under his command. The tranquillity of affairs in Africa now afforded him an opportunity of difplaying his talents in another quarter. He fet out for India as a volunteer, and accompanied EJtevaon de Gama in his expedition to the mouth of the Red Sea. The King fent out ordeis to the Governor of Goa, to pay him a thoufand crufados annually as long as he remained in that country : but Don John refufed this bounty, thinking it more honourable to live frugally on his own fcanty fortune, than be ranked among the needy pensioners of the crown. During the intervals of repofe in this expedition was Don John employed in making charts, and taking obfervations of the bays and coafts along the Straits of Suez. He is faid to have made many judicious obfervations on the Red Sea, and on the caufe of the overflow of the Nile. Thefe, together with other pieces written in the courfe of his voyages, he dedicated to the early companion of his ftudies, Don Lewis, brother to the King. But there is one thing ftill more remarkable of him in that expedition, though, perhaps, not generally known. At \ At his return he is faid to have brought to Portugal the firft orange-tree ever feen in Europe, and from which originated all that valuable fruitage we pofTefs at this day. The fervice he rendered mankind by this act alone entitles him to the gratitude of pofterity ; and he himfelf was not fo dazzled with the love of military fame, as not to efteem this gift to his country as the greateft of all his actions. And here it may be reafonably afked, why a perfon of his diftinguifhed talents was not inverted with fome important command in Alia ? But his biographer thus refolves the queftion: In his days, as at prefent, the Sovereign's favour was but too often obtained through the influence of favourites ; and as Don John was not of an obfequious difpofition, and too proud to derive any diftinction from the minions of a court, it is not matter of furprife that he remained fo long neglected, The time, however, arrived when the King, waving all considerations of minifterial influence, refolved to reward one faithful fervant, in Don John de Caftro, who had never afked him a favour, nor ever denied his fervices in his country's caufe. His Majefty fent for him fhortly after his arrival from India, and appointed him Governor of all his territories in the Eaft. He accordingly fet out with the general wifhes of the nation, to take upon upon him this important command, on the seventeenth pf March one thoufand five hundred and forty-five. Llaving arrived at the feat of government, he found innumerable difficulties to furmount; an expensive war had exhaufted the treafury, and the troops were funk into effeminacy and diffipation. Don John, however, was not to be intimidated by fuch difcouraging circumstances. He immediately fet about reforming every department of the ftate, civil and military, and in a fhort time reftored ceconomy to the one, frugality and difcipline to the other; he himfelf was the firft to fet the example in each, thereby enforcing his precepts by his practice. But the moft difficult part of the tafk was to reform the foldiers from their depraved habits; and in accomplishing this, he might be faid to have cheated them into difcipline ; for the only means he employed was emulation, of all other means the moft congenial to the pride of a foldier. For this purpofe he introduced every manly exercife that could brace the finews and banifh effeminacy : military evolutions, feats of horfemanfhip, wreft-ling, racing, throwing the bar, &c. indeed it may be faid that he revived the emulation of the Olympic games in the plains of Goa. The moments of repofe were fparingly counted to every foldier, and out of thefe they were obliged to devote a certain time in fcouring and brightening ing their armour, which heretofore had been covered with ruff. An army thus inured to every hardfhip, and the fcorching rays of a vertical fun, were impatient to be led into the field of battle ; their warlike appearance ftruck the enemy with terror, and victory in every conflict declared in their favour. What a ftrange appearance a legion of fuch brave fun-burnt fellows would make among the modern Portuguefe, who eftimate men by their indolence, by the fairnefs of their fkin, and the delicacy of their fingers ! Of the feveral engagements in which our hero diftin-guifhed himfelf, we fhall, for brevity's fake, notice but the one which contributed molt to exalt his military reputation, and that was at the relief of Dio. The King of Cambaya, with all the forces of his kingdom, laid fiege to this fortrefs, aflifted by a numerous army from the Grand Sultan. During feveral months the gallant Don John Mafcarenhas defended it with a handful of men againft the enemy, who are faid to have been upwards of fifty thoufand in number, and had fixty pieces of brafs cannon. The command of this army was given by the Sultan to Coge Sofar, the ableft general in his dominions. Having drawn up his forces before the fortrefs of Dio, he addreffed them to this effect: " Friends and companions, It is almoft unneceffary for me to mention how you ought to defpife that handful of Portu-5 guefe guefe before you ; they are fcarcely five hundred in number, without poflibility of receiving any reinforcement by land, and the winter, cuts off their profpecls of fuccour by fea. Our inceffant attacks will conftantly employ them on the walls, or in repairing the breaches of our cannons; fatigue will overpower them, and they muft necefiarily yield ; for they will not have one foldier in referve. Behold, my friends, to what a fcene of glory I have brought you, to humble the pride of the infolent Chrijlians, the fworn enemies of our Prophet, and to avenge the blood of your relations and friends, whofe bones are interred beneath the ground you ftand on. Mark ! methinks I hear them groaning with their wounds, and calling on us to purge the land of thefe impious barbarians, the murderers 'of the great Badur." When he had finifhed his fpeech, he fent a menage to the Governor of the fortrefs, threatening, if he did not accept of the terms offered in it, to put, every man in the garrifon to the fword. Mafcarenhas returned for anfwer, Ci That the Portuguefe were not accuftomed to receive laws at the point of the bayonet, and that he would agree to none different from thofe which already exifted relative to the garrifon of Dio. If Coge Sofar did not accept of thefe conditions, he muft accept of worfe, which fhould be written with the blood of his Janizaries." Don Don John de Caftro, who at this time was at Goa, loft not a moment in preparing for the relief of the befieged ; he equipped nine fmall vefTels for that expedition, in which he told his foldiers none were to be admitted but his favourites. Then calling for his fon Ferdinand, who was but a private foldier, he addreffed him in the prefence of the troops, in the following manner : " I fend you with this relief to Dio, which is now befieged by an army of Turks; and I charge you to do your duty as a foldier, other wife I fhall no longer acknowledge you as a fon. Let no confidoration of family diftinction betray you into error; for remember that all men by birth are equal, and that you are not entitled to the leaft preeminence over any of your companions, but in proportion as you excel them in acts of valour and virtue. Let no man, therefore, furpafs you in obedience to the commands of your Captain, in zeal for your Sovereign, and love for your country. Go then, in the name of God, and purchafe honour for yourfelf, and either return to me victorious, or not at all."—In this collateral manner was Don John wont to animate his troops, and to curb the pride of the young Nobility. The fleet having arrived at Dio, the Governor received a very friendly letter from Don John, wherein, among other things, he mentioned how-much he envied the glorious poft he filled, a poft much more honourable than M m that that of Governor of India. I fend you (faid he) with this relief my fon Ferdinand, who, I truft, will be furpaiTed by none in affection to your perfon, and obedience to your orders: if the boy fhould ever return to his native country, with what exultation will he relate, among the vanities of old age, the honour of having ferved as a foldier under the brave Don John Mafceranhas. As foon as the troops were landed, the Governor affem-bled his men in the parade, and addreffed them thus : " Behold, my brethren, thefe Turks and Janizaries, who vainly attempt to recover the honour they have loft in the firft fiege againft this fortrefs; but thefe are not more confiderable than thofe who were vanquifhed, nor we lefs than the vanquifhers. What! have thofe brave Portuguefe who conquered them carried every fame into the grave, and left us none to tranfmit to pofterity ? No, my brethren, let us convince the world that we are not lefs brave than they. We have not failed five thoufand leagues to become flaves to infidels, and to tarnifh the renown of our country. We want for nothing : our provifion and ammunition will hold out until fuccour arrives ; and though at this feafon the feas are difficult to encounter, yet have we a Don John de Caftro, who, I pledge myfelf, will make his way through the waves, with his fword in his mouth, to come to our afliftance. If any thing could in-fpire men with true courage, it is the glorious caufe in which we are engaged j the honour and intereft of our King TRAVELS IN; PORTUGAL. 267 King and country, our property, our lives, and what is ftill more dear to us, our holy religion. Let every finew then be exerted againft that hord of barbarians that would rob us of all thefe invaluable confiderations, and we cannot fail to be victorious if we are unanimous; for though our number is but fmall, our power is great, for the God of .victories affifts us." By this and other well timed difcourfes, Don John Mafceranhas fo animated his men, that he performed prodigies of valour during the eight months that he fuftained this defperate fiege. At length Don John de Caftro arrived, and brought with him all the Portuguefe forces he could collect in Alia. The troops of the garrifon now amounted to about four thoufand, including fea-men and auxiliaries; with thefe he refolved immediately to terminate the fiege. On the evening previous to his making the attack, he diftributed his army into four columns, giving the command of one to Don John Mafceranhas, another to his eldeft fon, Don Alvares de Caftro, a tried veteran; Don Manuel de Lima led the third, and the fourth he referved for himfelf. Next morning, at break of day, he ordered a public mafs to be celebrated in the midft of the parade, at which he himfelf, and the greateft part of the garrifon, received the facrament. This folemn fervice being over, he addreffed the men in an animated fpeech: and to convince m m 2 them them that there was no alternative but death if they did not conquer, he commanded the gates of the fortrefs to be taken down and burnt. After this every man refumed his poft: the fignal being given, they fallicd out, fword in hand, and completely routed the enemy. Five thoufand Moors are faid to have perifhed in this day's engagement, together with Ramacaon their General, and feveral other Moors of diftindion. Coge Sofar, the father of Ramacaon, had been killed fome time before, as was alfo Juxarcaon. Another General of the fame name was taken prifoner, together with fix hundred men. Forty pieces of cannon, and feveral ftands of colours, alfo fell into the hands of the victors, betides a considerable treasure found by the foldiers in the town contiguous to the fortrefs which was delivered up to plunder. We fhould not forget to mention a circumftance, which, in a great degree, contributed to forward the above victory. During the engagement, Father Cafal, the chaplain of the garrifon, carried a crucifix on the point of a fpear, with which he appeared wherever the combat was moft obfti-nate, animating the men. It happened that the column under Alvares de Caftro was overpowered, and thrown into diforder, and all his entreaty to rally them was in vain. The Prieft, however, effected what the General could not; he fhewed them the crucifix which a weapon had struck and thrown into a reclined posture, exclaiming, at the fame time, facrilege, facrilege. Oh! foldiers of Chrift, re~ 3 venge venge the facrilege! on which the {battered foldiers, animated with an enthusiastic rage, advanced to the charge, and determined the battle. In confequence of this important victory, the Portuguefe poffeflions in India were fecured for the prefent; but Don John, who never left any thing to chance which he could effect by forefight, refolved to follow up the advantage he had recently obtained without lofing a moment. In the firft place, he fet about rebuilding, upon a new construction, the garrifon of Dio, as the old one had been nearly demolifhed by the enemies cannon; but this object was not to be accomplished without money, and the treasury was quite exhausted; as to himfelf, he had nothing besides his fword and helmet. Having in vain tried feveral expedients to raife fiippiics, he at length thought of one, which may appear rather lingular at the prefent day : he refolved to depofite the bones of His beloved fon, Don Ferdinand, who had fallen in the fiege, for the fum he required. Accordingly he ordered the grave to be opened and the body raifed: he embraced it tenderly, faying, whilst the tears gufried from his eyes, my fon, thou art dear to me even in death ; but my duty commands me to stifle the feelings of nature, when my country's fafety is at flake. As the corpfe fcarce exhibited any marks of excarnation, his officers prevailed on him to permit it to be re-interred ; and in lieu of it, he fent a lock of his own mustaches to the inhabitants of Goa, as a fecurity for for the fum of twenty thoufand pardaos. They immediately advanced more than he required, as a free gift, and returned the honourable pledge by a fpecial meffenger, who was alfo charged with a letter highly expreffive of the deep fenfe they entertained of his patriotifm. Some idea of this great man's character may be conceived from thefe faint fketches: to enumerate all the meritorious ads of his life, would exceed the limits we prefcribe to this work ; we fhall therefore pafs them over, and haften to a fcene that crowned his glorious career. The account of his victory having reached the King his mafter, he appointed a day of folemn thankfgiving. The Pope and feveral Princes congratulated him on the occasion, and every one in the kingdom received the news with demonstrations of joy except the Queen; fhe too had no objection to the victory, but envied the honour of the victor, becaufe he was received in triumph at his happy return to Goa. This gave her Majesty fuch umbrage, that {he obferved, Don John de Caflro conquers like a Chriftian, but triumphs like a Heathen. In his letters to his Majesty he folicited leave to return home, entreating, at the fame time, if he approved his fervices, that he would grant him two acres of ground, or rather rocks, which border on his little villa at Cintra. The latter the King granted, but refufed the former; assuring afluring him of the high estimation in which he held his fervices, and requesting him to continue his command three years longer. Hitherto Don John had only the title of Governor of India, but now the King falutes him, Vice King and Friend. He lived, however, but a fhort time to give lustre to thefe honours. He was attacked by a violent ficknefs, and expired in a few days in the arms of his confeffor, in the forty-eighth year of his age, and third of his administration in India. A fhort time before his dissolution, he aflembled in his chamber the Magistrates of Goa, and the different Officers of State, to whom he delivered up the government. After which he addreffed them in the following fpeech: " I am almost afhamed to tell you, Gentlemen, that the Viceroy of India, expiring with wounds and fatigues on this bed of ficknefs, is in want of the necessaries which even a private foldier finds in an hofpital. You are fenfible, that as long as there was an enemy to fubdue, I have not been fparing of toil or fatigue in every thing which tend to the glory of our King and country; and now, that we have fubdued our foes, and eftablilhed an honourable peace with all the powers of the East, a worn out foldier, who has contributed fo often to your victories, has fome claim to your regard. It is probable, that in a fhort time I fhall be no more; and fhort as I am likely to exist, I have not wherewithal to support or nourifh me; so for for I have laid out to the laft fhilling in relieving the wants of my brother foldiers, and have left nothing to relieve my own ; nay, not fo much as would buy a fowl for my dinner. I requeft, therefore, that you will provide a perfon of your own to provide a frugal maintenance for me out of the King's revenue, I alfo requeft, that you will order me a change of bed-linen, as I have not a fecond quilt to my bed." Then railing himfelf up, with the affiftancc of his confeffor, the venerable Xavier, he laid his hand on the Gofpel, and folemnly fvvore on it to the truth of what he had juft advanced; and defired the Secretary of Goa to take minutes of it, and enter it on the journals of the Council of State, in order that, if the fact was not found as he had ftated, his memory and his pofterity might be branded with infamy. We fhall only obferve, that time evinced the truth of every word he uttered in his laft moments; for all the money found in his cabinet did not exceed a vintem\ that is, lefs than three halfpence. A few days before he expired, he ordered that his body fhould be interred in the Francifcan church at Goa, and tranflated from thence by the firft opportunity to the chapel belonging to his villa at Cintra. In all his actions he never loft fight of this charming retreat, wherein he hoped one day to pafs the evening of life in fludy and meditation, as appears by the letter he wrote after the fiege of Dio, to the Infante Don Luis, requeuing he would intercede intercede with the King for his recal. The Infante, in his affectionate reply, ufes this expreffion : u After your " performance of the Royal will, I truft you will cover u the tops of the rocks of Cintra with chapels and tro-u phies of your victories, and long enjoy them in pro-" found repofe." His remains are now repofited in the Dominican convent at Bemfica near Lifbon, where his grandfon erected a monument to his memory, with the following infcription : D. JOANNES DE CASTRO XX. PRO RELIGIONE IN UTRAQUE MAURITANIA STIPENDIIS FACTIS : NAVATA STRENUE OPERA THUNETANO BELLO: MART RUBRO FELICIBUS ARMIS PENETRATO: DEBELLATIS INTER EUPHRATEM ET INDUM NATIONIBUS. GEDROSICO REGE, PERSIS, TURCIS UNO PRJELIO FUSIS: SERVATO DIO, IMO REIPUB. REDDITO: DORMIT IN MAGNUM DIEM: NON SIBI, SED DEO TRIUMPHATOR: PUBLICIS LACRYMIS COMPOSITUS, PUBLICO SUMPTU PR7}< PAUPERTATE FUNERATUS. OBIT OCT. ID. JUN. ANNO M.D.XLVIII. /LTATIS XLVIII. n n Sanfkreet Sanfkreet Infcription. This infcriptional ftone is one of the trophies Don John de Caflro obtained in India : it is to be feen in his garden at Cintra. His Excellency Chevalier de Soufa, the prefent Envoy at the court of Sweden, informs me, that cc it was brought, with other antiquities, from India by " the Duke de Braganca, and delivered by him to the cc heir of Don John de Caftro." Lafiteau mentions it from Diogo de Couto. In the fame garden is another infcriptional ftone, the characters of which are almoft entirely defaced by the weather. The upper part of it exhibits the emblems of the Sun and Moon ; and the reprefentation of a man ftruggling with a rampant beaft is fculptured in bas relief on the foot of it. There is alfo a decapitated centaur of tolerable workmanfhip Handing on a pedeftal near thefe infcriptional ftones, which are all the Afiatic antiquities that remain here at prefent. Several travellers, who have viflted Portugal from time to time, are faid to have copied fome of the characters of this Sanfkreet Infcription, or taken impreffions of a few of them on plafter of Paris or wax. And the late Reverend Mr. Allen, formerly Chaplain to the Britifh factory at Lifbon, copied the two extreme lines and middle one. 13 This, This, I am informed, was the greater! progrefs made in tranfcribing it fince it arrived in Portugal, (which appears to be about the year one thoufand five hundred and fixty-fix,) until I made the copy hereunto annexed, in one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-nine. Vide Plate XIII. To the antiquary, a fhort account of the manner in which it has been copied may not be unacceptable ; the procefs was very fimple. In the firft place, I prepared as many ftrips of paper as there are lines in the whole ; to wit, fixty-fix ; on each of which were drawn two parallel lines, leaving a fpace between, equal to the height of the letters. Thefe ftrips being placed, one after the other, immediately under the lines, and fattened with wax at each end; the letters then were drawn on them with a black lead pencil, exactly under the correfponding ones of the prototype. There are many other ways, I am aware, of copying infcriptions of this kind, fome of which are very expeditious ; but the neceffary apparatus for that purpofe I had not at hand ; and I doubt, on the whole, if there be any procefs lefs fubject to error than the above. The characters are all funk, beautifully cut, and in excellent prefervation; each is two-fifths of an inch in height; the fpace between each line is one-fourth of an inch. In the copy fubjoined are preferved the proportions of the original, both in the detail and general diftribution. n n 2 The The defects obferved in the ftone are not, for the moft part, owing to the natural decays of time, but to accidents it received, perhaps, in the carriage ; for it is very hard, being of the bafaltes fpecies, and of a blackifh hue. Some imagine that the face of it was formerly gilt, and I have noticed in one or two places fome traces that appeared to juftify the conjecture. Hitherto the language in which it is written has been confidered as Hindoo, and the meaning remained an enigma, though fome attempts to afcertain it has been made by the three lines before mentioned, that were copied by the Reverend Mr. Allen. Some account of thefe is faid to have been publifhed by a ProfefTor of Oriental languages in Germany. The information, however, I have received on this head is too imperfect to lay before the public. I fhall therefore take no further notice of it, fince it is manifest that very little or nothing to the purpofe could pof-fibly be deduced from fo fmall and disjointed a portion of the whole. I am happy, at length, to be enabled to lay before the public the purport of this curious infcription, which has eluded the refearches, not only of the Portuguefe, but of all the literati of Europe for upwards of two hundred years paft. And for this I am indebted to the pen of the learned and ingenious Mr. Wilkins, whofe extenfive knowledge of Oriental literature is a lafting honour to his country. I fhould not omit this opportunity 4 of of acknowledging my obligations to him for the polite manner in which he undertook this troublefome tafk ; induced by no other motive than that of gratifying public curiofity. Of the difficulty of making a complete tranflation, the dilapidations reprefented in the copy are not the only impediments. Some mistakes, perhaps, might have occurred on my part in tranferibing it, that renders the interpretation of the remainder not very eafy, Mr. Wilkins has judicioufly pointed out the probability of fuch mistakes ; as may be inferred from his letter; of which we prefent a copy. S I Rj Hawkhurft, Kent, July 20th, 1793. I have bellowed no little labour to decipher the infcription ; and how much of it has been in vain, you may judge from a perufal of the few fheets of memorandums which accompany this; and which, though fufficient to determine the question concerning the intention of it, will not be fo acceptable as a complete tranflation ; to which there were many infuperablc obstructions, besides thofe which are obvious: fome of which I will take the liberty to mention. The characters rf7j?.^T?n^^ / c?V. df/f- cj^ ; ~Z^d}r'&/i/ &c. This cannot but occasion very great confufion. I find alfo the single dot 0 and the double ditto ditto o very often omitted ; both of which are of great importance in Sanfkreet. To the memorandums I have annexed my rough Notes refpecting the meafure of each verfe. The proper name for the Infcription is Safana, which fignifies an Ordinance. It is the term given to it in the inftrument itfelf. I remain, S I R, Your moft obedient humble Servant, C. WILKINS, To James Murphy, Efq. London. Memorandums c=S PC llli nr g EoS^ rui Br rc" Rr, ii*.? !§ FS E £2 E^.FJ-FC nr e? hs es eES ftp E r£ r—^ pr • • • • r=d £!> E lip ch2 E 0 I- (TC g ^2 [T p • • d t£ £3 52 c,S tin re E'E^r Rr g* a Efe E re K« S E ^ £.E^ F7> i n^ nr rc*—■<==* rr> nt £2 gt—- *3 f£ 2? s re . re Fg £~-FC c£ ,rr 2>E ^ P6 re £'E E c E E |W1 f£ r= cjO Kr pt pc £ jg ^ rcE E FC g E« re rei f? fin ^ P; ^ Hp W E Ftf gin! k« re re re ft, — S? 22 1^ irJ E g EL'S R. P'g^ ^ S ^ i nX [T ru- (T gJJ J5 e=j kj*=S «2 5 K- af ifif1Kba pre Ho 5 ^ ^ E ■0 sis ^^^S'f^ § esi € Wt ® v (TO I33 Ei W F=? PI a s3 S ft B5 nro ^ ^ 00 En h. -jj ht; fp co2^ ^E^S^^K^El'Zi" E» f31 ^ r& S 5 S il «JS 5? g'E d E SE^Ft f^^.f? ft Pib £3E E § » S K ES "S ES H7J Fl e S rff E Ft g ^ fT S ss H75 5 Pc ^ k e E Fff F? 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Egg rf^-s ^ rf rl^l^^- R on Kd pr X PFS p£ ra E lSE PT,rJ) rc, nr E^rF a E-Fc es n/) •1 f [_> X) re FC rv rod S 1=7 FC ft E3 e e Fo5^»E e FC el rc^ji IE rrt cc riy Ecr rc^ m3 | EE rep? g re re.re S r? S rc ^Hj to re FCEC ?Ec E re ^ EiE E EE E k She rjc E nr Err ru e: 5 i e at E E e 1 |li rS 5 Fc E'E S ■ss K fc e^ rr S EtE rc re E EE,FT g pg EJ^ rc re E fc fc ^-EiE4T E rrE tw*E ec >E E ,re FT g# ^e S«is ft E nr E'E^ E B W W [u) E, re>re b-' i—^-re U EB S oo US E E F2-EC r^ FS —• tj which is faid to have fome valuable ancient monuments. On the ninth of October one thoufand feven hundred and ninety, I fet out from Lifbon, and arrived in the evening at Aide Galega, a fmall village on the Eaft fide of the Tagus. Next day, about two o'clock, I reached Setuvaly A city famous for its fait manufactories. Its harbour is faid to be the beft in Portugal, except that of Lifbon ; it is even better Sheltered than the latter, and lefs difficult of approach, but not fo extenfive. The population of the city is fuppofed to amount to ten thoufand. Notwithstanding the trade of this place, and the con-ftant intercourfe between it and Lifbon, yet there is not a perch of a road to be feen the whole way, which is about fix leagues; nor can any find their way in the journey, except thofe who are in the conftant habit of travelling there; every other perfon muft take a guide, 9 or» or, what will anfwer the fame purpofe, one of the mules which is trained to the route. There* is laid to be feveral valuable pictures, by Henry Corneille Vroom, the celebrated Dutch marine-painter, at a church in the vicinity of this city. This painter having embarked at Holland, with an intent to go to Spain, was caft away in a gale of wind on the coaft of Portugal, where his fhip was dafhed to pieces. Among the fragments of the wreck that were caft afhore were found fome pictures, which were carried to a neighbouring convent. Shortly after, Vroom and a few of his diftrelTed companions were wafted on the rocks, and conducted to the fame convent. The Friars, who greatly admired the pictures, were rejoiced to fee the painter of them: they hofpitably entertained him and his fellow-fuflerers, furnifhed them with money and clothes, and fent them to Lifbon. In gratitude for their humanity, Vroom returned to Setuval, and painted feveral pictures for the Friars. At Setuval I embarked in a pafTage-boat, and failed up the river Cadaon. On the banks of this river is manufactured all the fait exported from Setuval: when prepared, it is piled up in heaps in the form of hay-ricks, and covered with ftraw or rufhes, to exclude the rain. The quantity of it produced here, though very great, is but trivial in comparifon to what it is capable of yielding. The river Cadaon is fo extenfive, and well adapted for p p 2 that that trade, that one would fuppofe it competent to fupply all Europe with fait; and it is allowed to be fuperior in quality to any manufactured in Spain, Sardinia, or France. About ten o'clock at night we reached Alcacer do Sal, a fmall town about fix leagues from Setuval. Its principal trade con{ifts in fait and fifh, with which the inhabitants fupply moft of the province of Alenteju. They have alfo rufhes here of a particular kind, of which mats, chairs, &x. are made. The territory produces little corn, and the wine it yields is white, and of an inferior quality. This town in former times was reforted to, during the Summer feafon, by the opulent Romans who inhabited Beja, Evora, and other parts of Lufitania. They had their villas and baths in it, and a temple dedicated to the goddefs Salacia. Auguftus Cefar made it a free town. The Moors had poffefiion of it from the year feven hundred and thirteen, till one thoufand two hundred and feventeen; when Alfonfo the Second finally banifhed them, after reducing the town to a heap of ruins. I lodged here at an inn belonging to a man who held an office of fome importance under the chief magiftrate of the town. He entertained me at fupper with the beft fare his houfe could afford ; viz. beef, eggs, greens, a bottle bottle of pretty good wine, and a profufion of fruit, pomegranates, olives, grapes, and a mufk-melon. No hoft was ever more defirous of pleafing a gueft whom he never faw before, nor ever expected to fee again. Fie took off his fword and fat by me during fupper, alternately taking muff and humming flanzas to the found of his guitar. Next morning, having hired a mule and a guide for me, he furnifhed his bill ; the amount of which, for fupper, wine, bed, &c. was two teftoons (one milling and three halfpence). The remainder of a crufado I diftributed among his children ; and he was fo well pleated to fee the little ones taken notice of, that he declared, if ever you come this way again. Sir, myfelf and my houfe pall be at your fervice. October 21. This morning we paffed through a country that exhibits fome of the moft beautiful fcenes that a landfcape-painter could wifh to behold : fcenes whofe wild grandeur would invite the pencil of a Salvator Rofii; confining of lofty hills, rude cliffs, and deep valleys, finely watered, and interfperfed with pine and oak trees : here and there a cottage, with a few peafants and cattle, enlivened the fcenc ; and nothing was wanting that the artift could wifh for to transfer to the canvas, except the ftately ruins. It is extraordinary, that fuch tranfcendens profpects do not call forth the exertions of the Portuguefe artifts to the ftudy of landfcape ; for there are no profeflbrs of that branch of the fine arts in the kingdom, at leaft I could not hear of, nor meet with one, Towards Towards the evening we entered a flat country, without culture, without inhabitants, an unprofitable wafte, which, apparently, for ages, had not been pierced by the plowfhare. In this tracklefs defert we loft our way : the guide remained fome time in fufpenfe which courfe to take: at length he begged of me to unlight, took the bridle ofT the mule, and fent it before us : we followed the animal, and thus regained our way. Shortly after, we accofted a troop of carriers who were going to Beja; my guide having bartered with one of them, transferred me to his care the remainder of the journey, and he returned home. At five o'clock we flopped to bait at a well; here the carriers drew up water for their mules with ropes and leather buckets they carried for that purpofe. Contiguous to this we met a fwine herd at the foot of an oak : he had juft threfhed from its boughs a meal of acorns for the briftly flock which furrounded him; a girl who accompanied him was roafting part of the fame fruit for their own repaft, whilft he played on a fmall lute, !n the courfe of the evening we met feveral herds of this kind feeding on grafs and acorns : hence, probably, arifes the excellence of the Portuguefe bacon, fo much cfteemed all over Europe. The flefh of hogs reared in this manner, muft certainly be very different in flavour from thofe fed*in cities or fea-port towns. ♦ During During the laft fix leagues of this day's journey, I had not feen a village, nor even a houfe. Here day and night is equally folitary and filent: the country appeared to have no claimants except thefe fwine herds, who roved about it uncontrouled ; and the ftillnefs of nature is feldom interrupted but with the found of their horns. At nine o'clock we defcried a light on a neighbouring mountain, which we approached, and there tarried till morning in a lonely hoftiilery. Shortly after our arrival came in two young Franciican Friars from Cadiz, who were going to Lifbon to pafs their noviciate. They appeared very fatigued, as they travelled on foot agreeably to the rules of their order; a mode of travelling they called riding the capuchins mule. Of all the inns I have yet met with, this is the moft wretched. There was nothing to be had in it but bread and four wine, though all of us flood much in need of refrefhment: for my own part, I had taken none fince fix o'clock in the morning, as the provisions I had with me were hardened, and rendered unfit for ufe, by the fcorching rays of the fun. Whilft we were contriving how to alleviate our diftrefs, the keeper of the inn entered with two large hares flung to a rufty fowling-piece, and relieved our anxiety.. The hopes of being fumptuoufly regaled by this unexpected fupply gave new life to the wearied Friars, who were were perfuaded that Providence had interpofed in their behalf. Their felicity, however, was of fhort duration; the profpecl vanifhed, and left them amidft their misfortune to reflect on the folly of anticipation. Here was the caufe of our difappointment. The elder of the two Friars approached the fire-place where the landlord's two daughters were cooking the hares, which they minced and put into an earthen veffel fupported by a tripod. Thefe girls being young and handfome, had tempted the difciple of St. Francis (who was full of youth and vigour like Rabelais' Friar John) to make love to one of them, though he pretended to be devoutly recounting his beads. In fhort, between piety and beauty the tripod was overfet, and the brittle veflel containing the minced hares was dafhed to pieces on the hearth. The only rcfource now left was to flcep away our hunger like the Laplanders ; but unfortunately the fituation allotted to us for that purpofe was not the moft eligible. We were fent to a fmall office without a door at the rear of the houfe, on the floor of which was laid a mattrefs for each of us to repofe on. My muleteer cautioned me to be very watchful, as the place was infefted with wolves; adding, that he himfelf would accompany me for fafety, but that he could not think of forfaking a comfortable bed he had made up of his facks in the ftable. I ilcpt, neverthelefs, very foundly in this doorlefs chamber, with my fword drawn, till he called me to refume our journey at four o'clock in the morning. 1 O&ober OEtober 2 id. Though I did not give much credit to what the muleteer related laft night refpecting the wolves, yet this morning I was fully convinced of the truth of it. Shortly after we left the inn, we defcried one of thefe animals at the diftance of about three hundred yards; it ftood for a moment, but fled as foon as the muleteers began to fhout and caft ftones at it. From its fize one fhould fuppofe it not adequate to encounter a ftrong maftifT. Beja. At one o'clock in the evening we reached the city of Beja, when I delivered the letters with which his Grace the Bifliop honoured me at my departure from Lifbon; his fecretary informed me, that he had received orders to accommodate me in the palace, and to give every afliftance in his power in facilitating the object of my journey. This city is fcated upon an eminence in the province of Alenteju, about three and twenty leagues South-caft of Lifbon. Julius Caefar honoured it with the title of Pax Julia, and made it a Roman colony: the Moors had polleffion of it from the year feven hundred and fifteen, till one thou find one hundred and fixty-two. Some remains of the walls, towers, and fortifications of the latter m are ftill extant, but none of the monuments of the former. The chief part of the prefent town was.built by Alfonfo cl et the the Third. It contains one of the beft conftructed caftles in the kingdom, founded by King Diniz. Two leagues from hence is the Guadiana, a celebrated river, which runs feven leagues of its courfe under ground, from the village of Argamafilla to the town of Daymiel. The ancient city of Beja was built a fhort diftance to the Eaft of the prefent. In digging there lately, feveral antique fragments were difcovered. It muft be regretted that thefe refearches are not profecuted ; the procefs would not be attended with much difficulty or cxpence, as the pavement of the old city is not more than fix and twenty feet beneath the furface of the earth: a fpeculator in this undertaking would, probably, be amply compenfated for his trouble, if one may judge from the experiment already made. In a cave not exceeding thirty feet fquare by twenty deep, feveral fragments have been found, which are depofited among other ancient remains in the Bifhop of Beja's Mufeum. The articles in the three following Plates, viz. XIV. XV. and XVI. are part of what I have copied from thence, except M and N, in Plate XIV. the prototypes of which are in the city of Evora. Reference to Plate XIV. A and B. Monuments of marble. C. A monument of folid ftone, which appears by the infcription to have been depofited to the memory of a merchant (whofe name is defaced) by his wife. $ D. D. Repre- Hate XIV. FRAGMENTS OF ROMAN ANTIQUITIES FOUNB AT BEJA h EVORA D. D. Rcprefent one a fword, the other a dagger. E. An Amphora. F and G. Utenfils of the Etrufcan kind. H. A vafe copied from a fculpture on an ancient ftone. I. A Lachrymatory. K. An ancient brick, fuch as were ufed in pavements. L. An Offuarium, or Sarcophagus, of an oval form. It is three feet long by one foot wide; the depth is the fame as the width. In this were found petrefcent bones of a brown colour, each piece of which appears to be as heavy as the fame quantity of Carara marble. Whether this petrifying quality be inherent in the ftone of which the Sarcophagus is formed, I could not learn ; but it is not unreafonable to attribute it to that caufe: for Theophraftus mentions, that fome ft ones have the property of petrifying or converting wholly into flone whatever is put into vejfels made of them. I fhall add what Sir John Hill obferves on this paffage of Theophraftus. " The ftone Theophraftus next mentions, and of which he has recorded the petrifying power, but not the name, is the Lapis Ajfius, or Sarcophagus. The AJfian, or flefh-con fuming ftone. The Sarcophagus, Boet. 403. Afius vel Ajfius Lapis, Charlt. 251. Sarcophagus, five Afftus Lapis, De Laet. 133. Ajfius Lapis, Salmas, in Solin 847. Plin. book 36. chap. 17. CIO, 2 " This " This was a flone much known, and ufed among the Greeks in their fepultures, and by them called crxoxo $xycc, from its power of confining the flefli buried in it; which, it is laid, to have perfectly effected in forty days. This property it was much famed for, and all the ancient naturalifts mention it: but the other, of turning into ftone things put into veflels made of it, has been recorded only by this author and Mutianus, from whom Pliny has copied it ; and from him fome few only of the later naturalifts. The accbuirc Mutianus gives of it is, that it converted into ftone the fhoes of perfons buried in it, as alfo the utenfils, which it was, in fome places, cuftomary to bury with the body ; particularly thofe the perfons while living had moft delighted in. The utenfils he mentions are fuch as muft have been made of many different materials; whence it appears, that this ftone had a power of confumingonly flefh; but that its petrifying quality extended to fubftances of very different kinds. Whether it really pofleffed this laft quality, or not, has been much doubted, and many have been afraid, from its fuppofed improbability, to record it. What has much difcouraged a difbelief of it is Mutianu$\ account of its thus taking place on fubjects of different kinds and textures: but this,, in my opinion, is no objection at all, and the whole account, very probably, true.—The place where this ftone was dug was near Affos, a city in Lycia, from whence it had its name ; and Boethius informs us, that in that coun-* 3 tryy A i D ■ M ■ S *vxxx\\ TIO "vix^r.r- T^NOBEX¥L EV'lTiiVPACE DJ1HDVS .M ART!Att ■ i:r 1 ■ji.ii .hi.,',./' [AN v xxacvu. M v^ A v ]VX v Posv.it. mater l.s.n'XXXXXIir:) QJ.,A\>lARn,K.l'X \'\.>'.v >'A!IVK|V\. KII.IAK MAlKl-rt , l&SIMK • POSVK II S K "s T 1' I CORINTHW iroViF XUAN.WMl'NSlB DIHJV5. VilH AI ART I a L I. SO ROB ■ I' < ,st ma'S . a A ^ aivmia\ V" FVJSTDAXA. s MB K KI'fAMhJ RENH.PO II.S.E.S.T.T.L. CLIO. A^'Ui; Lfo COMMQBO. HH^'AES. FA KI.I.KAI bu ( axlaaton i il l'll I'll' milWiiil >'(. A''CI'll, PP. VI I, |() COL , I'AX. I VI, I A || .jjj Q. I Kl KO.viOAlA'I'KUyo C. |v,|,i() , O'UA.M) I l'itNi.\ht. hi l.i,/,// .in,/ Davits in Uto Strand CZ Ionic Order. In each intercolumniation is a niche, with a ftriated head; an aperture is formed in one of them to give accefs to the infide of the ftructure. The fecond ftory is decorated with Ionic pilafters, between which are apertures for ventilation, the top is crowned with an hemifpherical dome. What appear lingular in this antique monument, are the acrotoires and depreffed parapet over the entablature of the columns. It is probable that each of thefe acrotoires was formerly crowned with a vafe: the remains of one is ftill vilible, as exprefled in the View; and the fragment of a pedeftal to hp fepn in rme of the niches, induces me to fuppofe that each of thefe alfo was decorated with a vafe. The whole is conftructed of brick, incruftated with cement, of fo hard and durable a fubftance, that few parts of it appear to have failed by the natural decays of time. Confidering it was built feventy years before the Chriftian sera, we cannot but admire how fuch an apparently delicate ftructure has relifted the accumulated injuries of time. Upon the whole, it may be juftly confidered one of the beft preferved and moft beautiful pieces of ancient architecture in exiftence. Here we have a ftriking inftance of what a good architect is capable of effecting with the meaneft materials. r r Of t Of its dimenfions, nothing can be more elegant than this caftellum, though formed of brick and cement. The Greeks had many buildings conftructed of the like materials * ; and we find in Vitruvius, b. ii. c. 3. that the Romans alfo frequently built with bricks, as the remains of their edifices evince to this day. Palladio has left us a fine fpecimen of this mode of building in an octaftile portico at Venice; the columns of which are thirty-five feet high, formed of bricks that were caft in circular moulds, and cut into quadrants before they were baked. From thefe, and many other examples that we could refer to, of elegant buildings conftruclcd of Lik.k, it appears evident that the meannefs of our edifices, proceeds not from want of materials, but architects; for there is no country, however barren, but affords better materials than artifts. Temple of Diana. Plate XIX. This Plate exhibits a view of another ftructure, built by Sertorius, faid to be the remains of a Temple dedicated to Diana. The front of it prefents an hexaftyle in the Corinthian Order ; the distribution of which appears to be pycnoftylos; for the intercolumniation is exactly one diameter and a half, like that of the Temple of the deified Julius, and of the Temple of Venus in Csefar's forum, mentioned by Vitruvius, b. iii. c. 3. * Vide Remarques fur }'Architefiure des Ancknst par M. W'tnchlmann. 548 3^6468301^76167^ 9999999999999994^ ^036 6716 The diameter of the columns is three feet four inches. The bafe is Attic, in height a femi-diameter of the column, or twenty inches, including the upper liftle. The fhafts are cut into channels and fillets ; each channel is fix inches and a half broad, and a femi-circle in depth; the number of channels in each column is but fixteen. Vitruvius affigns twenty-four channels to the Corinthian column, yet the appearance of thefe ftriae is not unpleafing. For proportion and delicacy of fculpture the capitals are much to be admired. The entablature is entirely deftroyed, except part of the firft facia of the architrave; the reft of the work is in a degree of prefervation fcarcely credible for a monument of its age. For this it is indebted to the durability of the materials, which is a fpecies of granite fomewhat afperous, but exceedingly hard. The rubble-work in the front and fides is evidently Moorifque, as may be inferred from the pinnacles with which it is crowned. At one fide of the hexaftyle are five columns, including the angular one; at the other, I could difcover but three. From thefe and the columns of the front we may infer that it had been a Peripteral Temple ; for, according to Vitruvius, b. iii. c. 1. Temples of this kind had fix columns in the front, and as many in the pqfticus; the flanks had eleven each, including the angular columns, and a fpace r r 2 equal equal to an intercolumn was left at every fide between the furrounding columns and the cell or body of the Temple. The elegance difplayed in the remains of this Temple, have led many to conjecture that the architect had been a Greek, from a fuppofition that Rome at the time of Ser-torius had not artifts competent to defign and execute fo polifhed a fabric. My firft knowledge of it was derived from Don Ignacia de Manique, the Intendant General of Lifbon. In point of antiquity, as well as elegance, it is the moft eftimablc ftructure in Portugal, yet I am forry to add, that the ftate of neglect in which it is left redounds little to the honour or difcernment of the people of Evora. It is now converter! into the meaned of offices-—a meat-fhambles. In this refpect, however, it may be faid to have fome affinity to its former deftination ; for then it flowed with the blood of victims, which were facrificed to appeafe the Goddefs Diana ; whereas the like tragedies are now performed in it to appeafe hungry mortals. Indeed, it appears to have been perpetually deftined for a theatre of tragic exhibitions. Several ancient infcriptional ftones have been found from time to time in this city and its environs, of which there-are nine to be feen in an old wall contiguous to the prifon, with two modern ones. Copies of thefe infcriptions may 4. be llate XX ....................................... _ .ii'nnuii»niiiinniijiy[i^iiw^iiniwBiTirui!Mi4r\iinMiiuiiiBni^(^'iiinriiTii >TiimtftiniiBmnningpTTinniimT»iwiii)iiin^ini ]3d x('isvi, k \\ 1 dkt.i- ort, EB DIKE v ^ VM.MV.rsf I (^-yET. ¥\ Ml 1' U\\'l i-rvvr I^.KIM .10, E ;.>M!, UN .V)/("',, VNVM.CGLLE't" '' HIXD.^ L(" v\iAVo mm Ml ; larib . 1 PRO S a E'JTE .e t,'tk<10 j A' WTCVTK . domws } , SKRTOIU W*PKTAI5B. lADQS j | ] rv^.doi^A03 .bo ^oth7\/bhv^ 1*2 t i j. 5krtor .cepalo • q .skrtor. .ATKROS x.3berte1 ,.jV ; ; liiiiiiiiiiiiiliiiiiF 'ililllilill^ 1 Willi! iniill'lirt-. HlillllHKnlllllllllMl.,'!?! LEG .X-GEM-.QVEj$ CONTRA .VlRLVT.' B||t. IMP.iiiiH VNJMA^PRQafMOR TtO , pEREr ii-, Tis-],vs'i SERV AMipv^yg ES J GRAWWJNilll^ hihli'iluil M VINO . Jtl TIRO . IVN . HAST. .L&G.H.AYG.TORQ. A^R ,ET.AN.DlTL.OB.^RT. DONATO. IVN. YERECVN . FL AM.PKRP. MVN.EBOR MATER.F.€ . PlllllliliOlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll'IIII'lllillll D. IVQ, f vf ,[D, LIB.IVL..KBORA. OB.1IJLV8.IN.MVN. E. MVN. II BERAJfff ATOLKX.B.B.IJ. QVOIYS. DEB CATIO NE .VENERI. GENE 11J « . D oivtm. M A TRONAE , CKSTVM. TVLERVNT. -. Eiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii...........mini.....inn r II irairiiimnffillillinnTiiiiiiliiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiini nilUlli I . O . M OB.PVLSOS.A .Q . SERTOR METEL• ABQ . POMPE.IVN. DONACE. CORONA.EXSCEP TR.EX.AKG. MVNVHADTVLli: ] FLAMLNVPHIAIA .CA1LATAM-IHIEROBVLIS - €OENAM..l)-])< m u.j..'dL! u '.inn Ufa IjI BgffClLI vb'irVtii PROVOC. VICTOR] DON. DONATO. AB IMPERfflfill J. HAST PVR . ni .VEXIL. rv\v . .1 . 1M V K , un. ob simNi|pMi HIS.lN.RES.P.S.FVNOiui, EBORENS CIVloOPT. HMERITA. EIVS «IN . MVNIC.MARMOR BASH. AENE tCOoD L'uNislied MmiiMi],).\.hi/Ui,1iil dntt !>mii\< in tin Strttnd "OCONTO ., h , 1 ■BUPAVJLILI.O. A§ Iff VlR , v'T . |H (Vefo cohM i ;x• j>ip*^ ■mimosas a'ii\vri\St.),p\ u \ I- I UK LITER . KT/COXHTAXTKF j'^iiFi^^A-s . r, t;ArntD.:vi',,.'p\^\.'(;R< '• 'n'rix/ROMA iv mx k,v,*3\\. pv.:fc j. ;'! I. IB , IV E • K li OR v|| I^NfC^iM'l^ySJTAN' INMAR-ET- IN - A VRICA • REX r K\.J;!lilfKM- At|V(V/ AKGENTEAiv-I>VCrnTM- A • Q-SKfeTORlO • AN■• ..I,XXV* ANTlv O-CMK1STY>V>^ATYM* TCXTKVCTVM - HAHHAK11vK'1AVX'riOV'riVv'l'l<: • 1;VM)K TVS • DEMOLITVM- NOVA- FORMA* LIBER ALHMPEN . 'MAIORI • AQVARVM -COP!A • ADIECTA-XVII MIL. PASS - DVCTVI-VERVS*P*P'IN-VRBEM-REDYXIT. ANN • SOI.VTIS.MDXX1I - PHILIP. II. AipjvAM• A • Q • SERTOR10 > A11 • AO 1*15 , OLIM-IMVOWAK** nvnc • OB1VOR • PERWC1| 11'., ET. lOANNE.inlRESTITVTAM • RECNI-ET- I'll'. TATIS • mvnificentia- regia ervanbam • cvravit • be1>/1ficis • bene k1c Yft . PONI • STATVii'- CEPPIS - EBORENS -AJVTIQVAJ NOB 1LITATEM - ATTE S TAN TIB VS • FORVM ILLVSTRAT - :\NNO - DOM • MDCV - hiM.-luil Man r\'i;i/.':h, Catktlan,! Dmkt in tlx Sbttnd Plate Will ,/..Hwpliii Tnuui. /-'i'iiI,s, : A COPY of an ARABIC INSCRIPTION________at E VOBA 1'nMi.ilbl ■ 'l.iii i"'i;, reprefented in Plate XX. appears to be fictitious. Plate XXIII. is a copy of an Arabic infcriptional Stone at Evora. The prototypes of the ancient vafe M, and of the Doric frieze N, in Plate XIV. are alfo preferved in the wall wherein the above infcriptional ftones are placed* Charnel Houfe. Plate XXIV. One morning, whilft T was making fome {ketches in the Piaya, ur Square, at Evora, a Fraiicifcan Friai accofted me, and afked, if I had feen the Cafa dos Ofos of his convent ? On being anfwered in the negative, he replied, Well then, Mr. Stranger, thou hafl feen nothing; come with me. We pafTcd through the Francifcan church, and entered an arched-way, over which is this infcription ; Kos os ofos que aqai ejlamos, Pellos vofos efperamos. Reader, refpect each mouldering bone ; This facred cell await thy own. The vifitant is ftruck with furprize, mixed with terror, on entering this Golgotha. It is fixty-fix feet long, by thirty-fix broad. The piers, which are eight in number, ber, that is, four at each fide of the nave, and alfo the walls, are lined with human fkulls and bones, fet in a hard cement. The obfeurity of the place, and the proftrate pofture of the pious fupplicants, render the whole a fcene truly awful. Dr. Young, who is faid to have compofed his Night Thoughts by the light of a taper fet in a human lkull, would have faturated his melancholy had he ftudied here; yet the Friars appeared to contemplate thefe mementos of mortality without the leaf); emotion of that awe incident to ftrangers. Such is the effect of cuftom, even death it-felf is diverted of its terror in the idea of religious people, who are conftantly ruminating on it, and alfo in the idea of thofe men who are habituated to the fight of dead bodies and fanguinary fcenes, Montagne obferves, " It was for this purpofe that fepulchres and cemeteries were made adjoining to the churches, and in the moft frequented p^rts of the city, with a view to divert the people (fays Lycurgus) of th? idea of terror at the fight of a corpfe, and to the end that the continual fight of bones, graves, monuments, and funeral obfequies, fhould put them in mind of their frail condition/1 We may alfo add a cuftom that obtained among the Mexicans, when the Spaniards firft invaded their country, pro-5 bably A* bably with a view to infpire courage, as well as to accuftom their people to contemn the horrors of death. They frequently hung the fkulls of their victims around their temples, and at other times piled them up in towers cemented with lime. In one of thefe towers Andrea de Tapea is faid to have counted an hundred and thirty-fix thoufand fkulls. Hence, perhaps, the cuftom of the ancient Romans, who at their banquets were wont to treat their guefts with tragic exhibitions, making fencers fight in their prefence till ftreams of blood gufhed over the tables and difhes.— The Egpytians, in like manner, at their feaft had perfons who cried to the company whilft they exhibited images of death ; Drink, and be merry, for fuch fhall be thy fate at THE END,