original scientific paper UD C 551.44(497.4) 'CAPTAIN MUSAFIR' IN SLOVENIA IN 1863 TrevorR. SHAW Karst Research Institute of fheZRC SAZU, Si-6230 Postojna, Titov !:rg 2 ABSTRACT A journey through Slovenia from Trieste to G ra z was made in May 1863 by an English army officer on leave from India. He published a description of it under a pseudonym, 'Captain Musafir', hut he has now been identified as George Malleson. His account of visiting Sežana, Lipica and the cave at Postojna is reprinted here with some further information about Postojnska jama in 1863. In his love of Slovenia, his love of fishing and his interest in the Karst, Malleson resembles his famous predecessor Sir Humphry Davy. Key words: Slovenia, travellers, Postojnska jama, G. B. Malleson, 1863 IL 'CAPiTAN O MUSAFIR' !N SLOVENI A NEL 1863 SINTESI Nel maggio 1863, un uffíciale dell'esercito inglese in congedo dall'lndia fece un viaggio attraverso la Slovenia, da Trieste a Graz. Cestui divulgó una descrizione del viaggio con lo pseudonimo 'Capitano Musafir', ma ora é stato identificato come George Malleson. // suo resoconto del la visita a Sežana (Sežana), Llpizza (Lipica) e alie Grotte di Postumia (Postojna) é riportato nell'aiticolo, con ulteriori informazioni sulle Grotte di Postumia nel 1863. Nel suo amore per la Slovenia e per la pesca e nel suo interesse per il Carso, Malleson assomiglia at suo famoso predecessore Sir Humphry Davy. Parole chiave: Slovenia, viaggiatori, Grotte di Postumia, G . B. Malleson, 1863 INTRODUCTIO N Captain Musafir visited Postojnska jama and Lipica in 1863. His signature is reproduced in figure 4. Bui he did not exist; the name is a pseudonym. This article identifies wh o the man really was and describes his visit to Postojna (called Adeisberg at that time) and its cave, and through other parts of Slovenia as part of a longer tour in Austria and Bavaria. 'THE CALCUTT A REVIEW' The visit of 'Captain Musafir' first came to notice in this way. A n anonymous magazine article published in 1886 (Russell, 1886, 54-71), now known to have been written by Charles Russell, explains how he was first attracted to the caves of Slovenia, Serving as a doctor in India in the 1870s, he was setting out for two months' leave in Europe: One of the first things 1 did after arriving at the hotel in Bombay was to lay in a stock of literature for the voyage, and among some dozen volumes which I pur­chased from an itinerant vendor of second-hand books were two odd volumes of the 'Calcutta Review1, which, I saw, contained, along with much heavier matter, a series of pleasant, chatty articles, entitled 'The Unpub­lished journal of Captain Musafir.' Especially wasstruck with his description of the wonderful grotto at Adeisberg, a few hours' journey from Trieste. Trevor R SHAW: 'CAPTAI 1st MUSAflR' SN Sl.OVEMA IN) 1363. 105-114 There was no indication when 'Musafir' had been at the cave, nor of which volume of The Calcutta Review contained his description. The index to the first fifty volumes (1848-1870) revealed a likely series of three articles (Russell, 1866, 54-55) and one of these (Mal­leson, 1866-1867, in 1866, did indeed include the visit concerned: On the IS1'1 May our travellers left Trieste by railway for Adelsberg, famous for its caves (Malleson, 1866, 191). The entire description is reprinted later but at this stage the intention is to seek clues to the identity of 'Captain Musafir' and the year of his visit. 'Musafir' could not be his true name; it is the Persian word for traveller. Besides, Russell always put the name within quotation marks, thus: 'Captain Musafir'. THE EVIDENCE FOR AUTHOR AN D DATE Charles Russell, who drew attention to Musafir's writing in his own article of 1886, provides some infor­mation about him: The articles in question, which, as I subsequently as­certained, were from the pen of an officer of the Bengal Army, who was then known to fame as the author of She 'Red Pamphlet,' and has since acquired a consider­able reputation as an historian, contained a charming account of a holiday tour in some of the most pictur­esque parts of Austria (Russell, 1886, 55). The writer of the Musafir articles himself, introducing the 'diaries' on which the articles are supposed to be based, writes: Captain Musafir would appear to be an officer of the Bombay [sic] army, who left India with his wife some four or five years ago on twenty months' sick leave to Europe. ... His journal was handed over to us with the most satisfactory proofs as to its authenticity. ... W e gather from a few prefatory remarks affixed to it that Musafir was a fair German scholar, a great lover of the picturesque, an adventurous traveller, and an ardent devotee of "the gentle art [of fishing]." ...His taste for the picturesque and his love of travelling would seem to have been shared by his wife, for it is evident from the journal that she accompanied him everywhere ... W e gather from the journal that after the ordinary in­cidents of an overland voyage, our two travellers ar­rived at Trieste at 11 o'clock on the 15^ May (Malle­son, 1866,187-188), With regard to dates, there is this sentence, given as a footnote: The date of the year is not given in any part of the journal, but from the state of completion of the rail­ways, it could not have been more than five of six years ago, possibly less (Malleson, 1866, 187-188). The article having been written an unknown time before its publication in November 1866, this suggests 1860 or 1861 or 'possibly* later. O r a few years earlier, if there was a long delay before publication; the railway in question, from Trieste to Postojna, was completed in 1857 when the first train ran on 20 june. Whe n Musafir and his wife got to Postojna, they met 'some American gentlemen who were staying at the inn, and who permitted them to join their party'. Thus the visit to the cave was made, with some Americans, by an officer of the Army in India, wh o later became known as a historian. It took place on 18 May , not earlier than 1858 nor later than 1866, and most probably in the early years of the 1860s. Fig, 1: Colonel George Bruce Malleson (Malleson, FALSE TRAILS 1894). SI. 1: Polkovnik George Bruce Malleson (Malleson, Before 'Captain Musafir' was finally identified, sev­1894). eral leads were followed without success. Trevor R. SHAW : 'CAPTAIN MUSARR 1 I N SLOVENIA IN 1863, 10S-1 !4 The archives of The Calcutta Review's publishers {R.C. Lepage in Calcutta and Longmans Green in Lon­don) cannot be traced, either in public archives or in the papers of the firms by which they were taken over. The Postojnska jama visitors' book suggests three possibles (Stammbuch, 1859-1865): 1 6 May "! 860 C. Munro England Major En Route from India to England 18 May 1860 G.j.[or i.j Wentworth USA Gentleman T. Davidson US A Gentleman .!•[ori-J Lamont Scotland Gentleman 19 May 1863G. Morrison England Major Munro, though recorded on 16 not 18 May, was an English Army officer from India and therefore a likely person. Reference books (East India register, 1860) show that Charles Augustus Munro (b, 15 May 1833) was a lieutenant in 1860, not being promoted major until 1875, but this does not preclude his being 'Musafir', exposing only an over-enthusiastic entry in the visitors' book. But there is no indication of C. A. Munro being on leave from India at the time, and he was not due for European leave in the ordinary course until 1865. The two Americans and the Scot visiting on 18 May 1860 have not been traced, so there is no independent information about their visits. The G. Morrison of England on 19 May 1863 was at first dismissed because the date was not correct (19 in­stead of 18) and there was no indication that he had come from India, information which people from there often provided, as Munro did. The name was clearly written as Morrison and no relevant travel books by anyone of the name could be traced. This entry wilt be referred to again later. AUTHO R IDENTIFIE D A more tedious approach finally provided positive identification. it was known that the author was a British Army offi­cer from India and that he had later become a distin­guished historian, writing among other things something known as the 'red pamphlet'. If he were sufficiently dis­tinguished he should be in The Dictionary of National Biography. To investigate every name in the 63 volumes of this book was clearly impracticable, but if he died in the 1890s he would be in the Supplement to 1901 (which, at only three volumes, was small enough to search right through). He did die in the 1890s (1898) and he was in the Supplement (Vol. 3), 'red pamphlet' and all. Furthermore, among his publications was listed a book Captain Musafir's Rambles in Alpine lands, the title of one of The Calcutta Review articles (Malleson, 1867). His name was George Bruce Maileson, so detailed information about him could now be sought. The book itself, ... Rambles in Alpine Lands (Malleson, 1884), consists of a reprint of ail three Calcutta Review articles together with a preface in which the year of the visit is given as 1863. The book is described later and so is the coincidence of G. B. Maileson visiting the cave on 18 Ma y and G. Morrison's entry in its visitors' book on 19 May. MALLESONS ' LIFE George Bruce Malleson (1825-1898) (The Dictio­nary, 1898; Board, 1891) (Fig. 1) was born on 8 May 1825, educated at Winchester College and joined the Bengal Army of the East India Company in 1842. He was in Calcutta during the Indian Mutiny of 1857-1858, and wrote an anonymous pamphlet of 30 pages analysing its causes (Maileson, 1857). Published in red covers, it became known as 'the red pamphlet'. Being an independent and outspoken book it offended many people, but Malleson's authorship of it remained unknown for many years. He was made captain in 1861 and major in 1863 with special responsibility for public health. It was in this work that he corresponded (Fig. 2 ) with Florence Nightingale, the famed nurse and hospital reformer of the Crimean Wa r (1854-1855) (Nightingale papers). O n November 1856 he married Marion Charlotte Battye (Marriage register, 1856) (1820M903) who was with him for his 1863 journey in Europe. He i^JlXl-C-CQCK. "I've tftught a>e other tongoea, iu strange eyes Have made nie >iut & stranger/' CnJi^ft Harcli». LONDON : W. H. ALLEN & CO., IB WATERLOO PLACB. B.W. 1884 . UN riçJir« rmrvti.) Fig. 3: The title page of the book (Malleson, 1884) in which Malleson reprinted his anonymous articles of 1866-1867. Si 3: Naslovnica knjige (Malleson, 1884), v kateri so bili ponatisnjeni Mallesonovi anonimni članki iz ob­dobja 1866-1867. wrote frequently for The Calcutta Review from 1857, and after he retired as a colonel in 1877 he wrote much on military history. H e was a keen fisherman, a good cricketer and a member of the Alpine Club. He died on 1 March 1898 in London and was buried at Brampton cemetery on 5 March. Indian Army records (The Indian Army and Civil Service, 1863) confirm that he was on leave in Europe in 1863 and 1864. Despite his own statement that 'Musafir' had left India 'on twenty months' sick leave to Europe' {Malleson, 1884, 8), this was almost certainly the normal long leave to which he was entitled after every ten years' service (Thacher's Post Office, 1864). ' I N SLOVENI A I N 1 863, 105-T14 THE BOOK The book Captain Musafir's Rambles in Alpine Lands (Malleson, 1884), in which Colonel Malleson reprinted his Calcutta Review articles of 1866 and 1867 (Malleson, 1866, 1867) under his own name, was published in 1884 (Fig. 3) with a second edition in the following year unaltered apart from typographical corrections. The original magazine text was unchanged except for the addition of some new footnotes. There is also in the book a ten-page preface recalling some later visits to Slovenia and other parts of Europe. Both editions have a printed dedication to M.A.H., a young woman who was 'the life of our party in 1863'. M.A.H. has not been identified but she must have been one of the two sisters of Malleson's unnamed friend from India, the 'charming, high-spirited girls' with whom they travelled from Luzem (Malleson, 1884, 73, 83, 84, 87). M.A.H. is of particular interest because a copy of the second edition is known with an ink inscription to her {Fig. 4) written by Malleson using his old pseudonym of 'Cap[tain] Musafir', twenty-two years after they had journeyed together. Alas, she was not present, for the Slovene part of the journey. The handwriting of 'Musafir' in 1885 (Fig. 4) and of Malleson in 1867 (Fig. 2) is clearly the same. So too is that of the 'G. Morrison* in the Postojnska jama visitors' book entry of 19 May 1863 (Fig. 5). The capital M is es­pecially diagnostic. So w e have Major G.B. Malleson, alias 'Captain Musafir', disguising his identity at the cave, perhaps an indication that he already intended to write up his journey for publication under a pseudonym. The absence of any entry for his wife is not surprising, for often only the head of the family would sign. The discrepancy of date was probably not deliberate. Such errors were often made in visitors' book entries, as they are today. Indeed two corrections of date can be seen in the six entries in figure 5. So there is no reason to disbe­lieve the 18 May date given in Malleson's printed text. THE JOURNEYS THROUGH AUSTRIA AND INTO BAVARIA The three Ca/cuifa Review articles reprinted in Maileson's book describe a long journey in 1863, in­cluding his Slovenia visit, and a shorter one in the fol­lowing year. The Slovene visit forms only a very small part of his 1863 travels which lasted for about four months ir, ail. His account of it is reprinted separately below. The journey started in Trieste (then in Austria) on 15 May 1863, where Malleson and his wife arrived 'after the ordinary incidents of an overland voyage', so they had not come by sea (Malleson, 1884, 7-9). Probably they had landed at Ancona and done the 430 km journey to Trieste by train. Trevor R. SHAW : 'CAPTAIN MtJSAFIR' SN SLOVENIA IN1 1863. 105-114 They put up at the Hotel de la Vilie [Fig. 6], which they describe as being one of the best and most luxuri­ous hotels on the Continent, being furnished with hot and cold baths, and every possible convenience. It is, however, dear in comparison with hotels in other parts of the continent. This arises from the fact that Trieste it­self is a very expensive city (Malieson, 1884, 7-9). The guidebooks support this view of its expensive­ness: Trieste ...Inns, all dear: Hotel de la Vilie, on the quay, in a good situation (Murray, 1863) Trieste ...Hotel de la Vilie, well fitted up (Baedeker, 1868). Whil e in Trieste they saw Miramare, the former home of the Austrian archduke who became Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. The lodge-keeper who admitted them to the grounds was a former soldier wh o had fought against the Austrians in Hungary. The Maiiesons' visits from Trieste to Sezana and to Lipica are reprinted later. So too is their stop at Postojna where they saw the cave on 18 Ma y and from which they left by train the next morning for Graz. From Graz they went to Wien , Linz (with a steamer journey up the Danube to Passau and back) and thence to Gmunden at the northern end of Traunsee, and to Ebensee and Langbath at its southern end. After eight days there they drove to Ischl for five days, continuing eastwards to Grundisee where they spent another ten days. O n from there to Hallstadt and Golling (30 km south of Salzburg), then to Berchtesgaden and to Unter­stem near Königs See for some ten days' walking, fishing and shooting. From Salzburg they travelled west to spend eight days at: Traunstein and Chiem See in Bavaria. Several of these places, including Traunsee, Ischl and Grundisee, had been visited by Malleson's more illustrious fishing predecessor and lover of Slove­nia, Sir Humphry Davy, in 1828. From there they covered greater distances, usually by train, spending nearly a fortnight at München and then stopping at Augsburg and Sc.haffhausen en route to Luzern where they joined M.A.H. and her family. Travelling south together they went to Engelberg, Brienz and Grindelwald before going north again to Strasbourg and a month's rambling in the Schwarzwald. The third of the Calcutta Review articles (Malieson, 1867), also reprinted in the book, describes a tour made largely on foot by Malieson and an unnamed friend in August of the following year. Having come via Bamberg and Nürnberg (where he mentions having seen 'fossiljlferous] caves' in Franconia nine years before) to München, they set out by train to Salzburg on 4 August. They went on to Mond See, Schafberg, Langbath, Gmun­ J/.J./d A^/A^y-^ CAPTAIN MUSAFIITS RAMBLES IN ALPINE LANDS. Fig. 4; A copy of the second edition inscribed in Malte• son's handwriting as a gift to his friend "M.A.H. from Cap/tainj Musafir". SI. 4: Kopija druge izdaje Malfesonovega rokopisa kot darila prijateljici "M.A.H. odstotfnika/ Musaftrja". den, Ischl, Obertraun, Hallstadt and Golling before con­tinuing to Königs See, Haliein, Lend, Wildbad Gastein and Innsbruck. From there they went over the highest pass to Italy, via Landeck, Pfunds, the Fmztermhnz Pass (1483 m), Mais, and over the Stelvio Pass (2757 m) to Bormio and Tirano. Thence they crossed into Switzer­land and over the Bernina Pass (2330 m) to Samedan near St. Moritz in the Engadin, and then by train from Chur through Bad Ragaz and Zürich to Basel. Malieson had to return to India six weeks later and it was this that limited their 1864 excursion to just under a month. I N SLOVENI A Malleson's text on Slovenia (Malieson, 1884, 12-16) is reprinted here in full. At that stage of the journey he was accompanied only by his wife. O n 1 7 May: ...our travellers drove to a village called Sessana [Sežana], on the line of the Vienna railway. Sessana is nothing in itself, but the drive to it is most lovely. The road winds up a gradual ascent of 1,800 feet, and commands, during its course, after the first half-hour, a splendid view of Trieste, the Adriatic, and of the pictur­esque town of Pirano on the lllyrian coast. On a very clear day, free from haze, Venice may be seen. At Ses­sana, our travellers met an Austrian officer, a native of the province of Moravia, who had served in the Italian campaign of 1859, regarding which he conversed freely. He did ample justice to the French soldiers and their emperor. Of the latter indeed he said that if he had been at the head of the Austrian army and if Giulay had commanded the French, he was confident victory would have been with the Austrians. Their defeat at Magenta he attributed to the utter incompetence of Giulay, and their ill-success in the campaign to the Trevor R. SHAW : 'CAPTAI N MUSAFIR ' I N SLOVEN'I A I N 1063, 105-114 treachery and disaffection of the Hungarian and italian regiments. He appeared most anxious for a fresh trial. "Let the Emperor," he said, "send to itaiy only Moravi­ans, Bohemians, Croats and Austrian, and let htm place Benedek at their head, and, I'll answer for it, we'll win back Italy." ft appears from various entries in the journal that this feeling was shared by almost all the Austrian officers and privates our travellers met with. On their return io Trieste the travellers followed an­other and more circuitous road, in order to visit the im­perial breeding stud at Lipizza [Lipica] - a place famous for its grass lands. The sight here was well worth seeing. At Lipizza there are horses of all nations, amongst them many English thoroughbreds. But those that most at­tracted notice were the Arabs - far more perfect in shape than any Musafir had seen in India. Many of them must have been of the purest Arabian blood, so absolutely faultless was their conformation. The care bestowed on these horses, as well as on the mares and foals, cannot be exceeded. Jt is a pretty sight to see them loose in their large, well-built houses, all herded together, living in the most perfect amity. They are treated with affection and gentleness by their atten­dants. No other mode of treatment indeed could have produced the sweet temper and docility displayed by ail the animals in this vast establishment. Next comes their visit to Postojnska jama. The jour­ney time given as 'little more than an hour' from Trieste to Postojna is interesting, for only two years earlier an American traveller (Comfort, 1863) had stated that the journey took four hours for 72 km (84 km, in fact) (Murray, 1876). Even in 1880 it was said to take three hours (Aubertin, 1880). On the 18t!l May our travellers left Trieste by railway for Adelsberg, famous for its caves. The line of rail lay among the hills, and the many bends it made, and their sharpness, - sometimes almost at right angles, - ap­peared to have completely astonished the two Anglo-Indians. The journey itself takes little more than an hour. Adelsberg lies about 1,800 feet above Trieste, and is proportionately cooler. It is in itself but a small village, deriving all its importance from the wonderful caves in its vicinity. To inspect these was the object not only of Musafir and his wife, but of all the travellers who stop at Adelsberg. In order to see the caves in perfection, it is necessary that they should be thor­oughly well lighted-up with torches and candles. Our travellers were fortunate enough on their arrival to find that orders for an extraordinary illumination had been issued by some American gentlemen who were staying at the inn, and who permitted them to join their party. Snatching a hasty meal, the whole party left the inn about 11, and arrived at the entrance of the caves a quarter of an hour later. They did not emerge till 3 o'clock. To describe accurately what they saw in that interval would require a paper by itseif. Transported suddenly from the fresh, balmy, sunny air of the outside world into the very heart of the earth, - a gloomy cav­ern with no fight save that afforded by the torches of the guides, - the travellers found themselves entering, now vast halls vaulted by rocks and supported seem­ingly by pillars of afabaster, - now narrow passages the flinty sides of which sparkled like diamonds. Again, they entered the nave of a glorious cathedral, at the other end of which, in the place where the aftar should be, was a visible representation of the crucifixion, not carved, but formed naturally by the rock. The grandeur and dread peculiarity of the sight impressed itself on afl the members of the party. They could scarcely resist the conviction that they were in another world. Sometimes depressing them by its gloominess, at others exalting them into enthusiasm by the glorious shapes formed by the alabaster-like stalactites, the effect was to make them utterly forgetful of the sun and the trees, the light and the air, the green meads and the running streams they had left outside, and to induce the idea that they were realfy passing through the valley of the shadow of death, to the vale that led down to the Styx, The appa­rition of Charon and his boat would not, in those mo­ments, have surprised any of the party. As if to com­plete (he illusion, there was, below them, a river dark as Erebus, flowing onwards through the depths of the earth, and seeming to indicate that there was a point yet to be reached, at which its stream would widen, and interpose a barrier between the visitors and the world beyond. Until the travellers approached the very last of the caves the spell was complete, nor did it leave them till, at a sudden turn, a flood of light reminded them that ­ The earth hath wonders, as the water hath, And these are of them! Leaving Adelsberg the following morning about 9 o'clock, our travellers left for Gratz, Malfeson's description is mainly of the cave itself as they saw it, rather than the wa y it was visited in 1863 which is what interests us more today. At that time ar­rangements for the visit would be made at the office of the Grotten-Cassier (Thomas Pegu) in Adelsberg itself. There the visitors' book would be signed and the neces­sary fees paid. These varied, depending not only the number of people in the party but also on the quantity of torches and candles ordered (Costa, 1863). Thus on top of the entry price of 70 kroner (0.7 florin) each, a 'great illumination with 10 pounds [4'/2 kg] of tallow candles' cost an additional 5'A florins. This was no doubt the 'extraordinary illumination' ordered by the American gentlemen of which Mallesons' party had the benefit. Trevor R. SHAW:'CAPTAI N MUSAFSR'I N SLOVENIA IN 1863, 10S-H4 Datum . Tante n ©e&urtépr ^ Sto. Daia jüNloine Híaíir o Dale Norn mm /lJ^JI JA I č/ I V {á^óéMlqjJi ^kfviié su. oÉL CLC/ CEfjíttaEtee SSo^tnoct •í C O 13 (I t XiOti e Domicilio Kaii í Domteile Fig, 5: The entry written in the Postojnska jama visitors' book in Malieson's handwriting on 19 May 1863, giving his name as G. Morrison. Si. 5: Tako se je v knjigo gostov v Postojnski jami 19. maja 1863 vpisat Malleson ­ kot G. Morrison. Another tourist attraction available for the cave visi­tor at that time but not mentioned by Malleson was the purchase of live Proteus. According to Murray's Hand­book ... (Murray, 1863), 'Specimens may generally by purchased at the inn at Adelsberg' and the book also advised how they could best be taken home in water. The night they spent in Postojna after their cave visit and before catching the Graz train the next morning would have been at the Hungarische Krone, on the site where Hotel Kras now stands. Murray's Handbook says of it in 1863 (Murray, 1863): ...really good and reasonable {in price]; civil people; it is about 20 minjutes'} walk from the Statfion] (Murray, !863). Another guidebook of the time (von Radics, 1861, 11) adds that it had a lovely garden. Malleson had clearly grown to love Slovenia, as well as other parts of Austria, for in his preface to the 1884 book he wrote: Since that first introduction into the country which may be called the Paradise of the World, I have made many incursions into Austria. There is scarcely a village in Carniola, in Carinlhia, in the two Austrias, and but few in Tirol, in the Bavarian Highlands, and in Styria, which Í have not visited; hardly a mountain stream which i have not, however slightly, despoiled. Seven years after the first glimpses of the promised Land recorded in this volume we again visited Europe. This time, also, we landed at Trieste, and proceeded at once, by way of Laibach, into Carniola. The charms, the loveliness, of that beautiful province, it would be impossible to exaggerate. Veldes [Bled], Feistriz [Sohinska Bistrica], the Wochein See [Bohinjsko jezero], the glorious Tergiou jTriglav], and many kin­dred places hardly less admirable, rise up to give men­ Trevor ft SHAW : 'CAPTAI N MUSAFiR ' IN SLOVENI A IN t86J , 105-114 tai evidence in support of this assertion. After a stay at Veides of more than a fortnight spent in climbing, rambling, and fishing, w e proceeded to the scarcely less beautiful Wurzener Thai [valley of the Sava Dolinka, past Kranjska Cora], the delight of Sir Hum­phrey [sic] Davy ... O n my final return from India, in 1877, i attacked the country from a new base. Again landing at Trieste, 1 proceeded with a friend by rail to Cbrz (Corizia), and drove thence, by way of Canate [KanalJ, to Tolmino [Tolmin], and from Tolmino by way of Podmenz. [Podmelec], and Coritenza j'Koritnica], to Podberda fPodbrdo], a country abounding in the most magnifi­cent scenery.... Since that period scarcely a year has passed which has not seen me in one or other of the seven charming provinces - in the two Austrias, or in Tirol, or in Styria, or in Carniola, or in Carinthia, or in the Bavarian Highlands, or in all. The warm-hearted, manly, gener­ous, and kindly people who inhabit them always give me a welcome, and make me feel that they regard me as a friend (Malleson, 1884, xi-xiii). In his last book too, published the year before he died, he showed that his interest had not waned : ...my acquaintance with those rivers and iakes began in 1863-4. I have spent the greatest part of my holidays since that date in renewing my acquaintance with them; in walking, rucksack on back, and alpenstock and fishing-rod in hand, to every par! of Tyrol, of Carinthia, of Carniola, ... ...The country around Latbach and the Julian Alps generally lends itself to the researches of men of sci­ence.... From Laibach the traveller can easily visit the marvellous caves of Adelsberg, reached by train. In those caves even the angler will realize that there are many things in the world more wonderful than were ever dreamt of in his philosophy. The underground riv­ers which will attract his attention, the Unz to the north, the Reka to the south, of Adelsberg; the Pi[v]k[a) at Adelsberg itself, with their living fishy inhabitants, will certainly excite his wonder (Malleson, 1897). In his love for Slovenia, his love of fishing, and his attention to the karst. Colonel Malleson much resembles Sir Humphry Davy. Fig. 6: The Hotel de la Ville in Trieste, at which Malleson stayed in 1863. Reproduced from a sheet of the hotel's writing paper used in 1911 and now in the archives of Postojnska jama at the Karst Research Institute, Postojna. SI. 6: Hotel de la Ville v Trstu, v katerem se je leta 1863 nastanil Malleson. Reproducirano z lista hotelskega pisarniškega papirja, ki so ga uporabljali leta 1911 in je zdaj v arhivu Postojnske jame na Inštitutu za raziskovanje krasa v Postojni. Trevor R SHAW : "CAPTAIN MU5AFIR' IN SlOVFNIA IN 1863, 105-11 'STOTNIK MUSAFiR' LETA 1863 V SLOVENIJI Trevor R. SHAW Inštitut za raziskovanje krasa ZRC SA2U, Si~6230 Postojna, Titov trg 2 POVZETEK Maja 1863 si je Slovenijo med potovanjem med Trstom in Gradcem ogledal dopustujoči angleški vojaški častnik, ki je takrat sicer služboval v Indiji, Svoje vtise je pozneje objavil pod psevdonimom 'Stotnik Musafir', za katerega danes vemo, da se skriva pod imenom George Malleson. V fem prispevku je objavljeno njegovo pričevanje o obisku Sežane, Lipice in posebno Postojnske jame v letu 1863. Sicer pa nas Malleson s svojo ljubeznijo do Slovenije, ribarjenja in krasa močno spominja na sira Humpbryja Davyja, svojega predhodnika. Ključne besede: Slovenija, popotniki, Postojnska jama, G . B. Malleson, 1863 REFERENCES Aubertin, J. J. 1880: The cave of Adelsberg, The Graphic, London, 25 December: 664. Baedeker, K. 1868: Southern Germany and the Austrian Empire. Cobienz, Baedeker, [1st edn.j xiii, 395 pp (p. 346}, Boase, F. 1921: Modern English biography, Truro, for the Author, 6 col. 147-148. Who was who. vol. 1 [for] 1897-1915, London, A. & C. Black, 4i h edn. 1953:469­ 470. Mumm, A. L. 1923 [=1922] - 1928. The Alpine Club register, London, Amid, 2: 226-228. The Times, London, 2 March 1898. P1, col. 1 (obituary). Comfort, C. F. 1863: The Cave of Adelsberg. The Ladies' Repository, Cincinnati 23(10): 588-590 (p. 588). Costa, E. H. 1863: Die Adelsberger Grotte. Ljubljana, Klenmayr & Bamberg, 2nc i edn. 66 pp (p. 64). East India Register and Army List, 1860. Bengal, pp. 130, 175, 280. The quarterly Indian Army list for April 1 1891:685a, 691. Index to the first fifty volumes of The Calcutta Review. Calcutta, City Press, 1873. Malleson, G. B. 1857: The mutiny of the Bengal Army. London, Chapman, 30 pp. Malleson, G. B. 1866: From India to Europe. Un­published journal of Captain Musafir. The Calcutta re­view 44(87):! 83-21 8. Malleson, G. B. 1866: Unpublished journal of Captain Musafir. The Calcutta review 45(09):! 78-204. Malleson, G. B. 1867: Rambles in Alpine Lands. Unpublished journal of Captain Musafir. The Calcutta review 46(91 ):44-76. Malleson, G. B. 1884: Captain Musafir's rambles in alpine lands. London, W . H. Allen, xiv(ii), 150 pp (Also 2n d edn., 1885. A review by Otto Zsigmondy appeared in Oesterreichische Alpen-Zeitung, Wien, VI Jahrgang (139), 2 May 1884:119). Malleson, C . B. 1894: The decisive battles of India from 1746 to 1849 ... 4li l edn., London. Reeves & Turner: frontispiece. Malleson, G. B. 1897: The lakes and rivers of Austria, Bavaria and Hungary. London, Chapman & Hall, xvt, 155pp. (pp. [viij, 91). Marriage register Bengal. 1856: [July-December 1856J. British Library, Oriental and India Office Collection N/1/90. Her date of death and age are stated on their tombstone in Brompton Cemetery, London. Some bio­graphies spell her name as Marian. Murray, j. 1863: /A handbook for travellers in Southern Germany ... London, Murray. 9l h edn., xii, 598 pp (p. 405). Murray, J. 1867: A handbook for travellers in Southern Germany ... London, Murray. 10th edn., xii, 633 pp (p. 452). Trevor R.. SHAW : 'CAPTAI N MUSAHR ' I N SLOVENI A SN 1863, 505-114 Nightingale papers. British fibrary, Add. MS. 45782, f. 228r. Radics, P. von, 1861: Adelsberg und seine Grotten. Trieste, österreichischen Lloyd. V'tii, 61 pp. Lloyd's illustrierte Reisebibliothek VIII (p. 11). Rüssel, C. M . 1886: In the Rekka Höhle. The Cornbill Magazine, London. New series vol. 6 (old Series vol. 53), no. 1, January: 54-71. Stammbuch der Adelsberger Grotte 5, 1859-1865. Ar­chives of Postojnska jama, held at the Karts Research institute, Postojna. The Dictionary of national biography. 1898. London. Smith, Elder, supplement 3:135-136. The Indian Army and Civil List. London, Allen for July 1863 (p. 97) and Jan. 1864 (p. 97).